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 ADMIRAL GEORGE DEWEY IN THE BATTLE OF 
 MANILA BAY 
 
 In that notable conflict which did so much for the American arms and gained 
 for himself undying fame, Admiral iJewey steadfastly refused to accept the 
 shelter of the conning tower, but remained on the bridge of his flagship, the 
 Olympia, throughout the engagement. It was the most dangerous post but it 
 was the best point of observation to direct the battle, and that was the only con- 
 "ideration in Dewey's mind.
 
 SCHLEY. DEWEY. SAMPSON 
 
 THE THREE GREAT NAVAL HEROES OF THE WAR WITH SPAIN 
 
 Rear-Admiral George Dewey, who sunk the Spanish fleet at Manila ; Rear- Admiral W. T. Sampson, who 
 
 planned the capture of Cervera's fleet at Santiago; and Rear- Admiral 
 
 W. S. Schley, who superbly executed that plan.
 
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 OUR NEW POSSESSIONS 
 
 ....FOUR BOOKS IN ONE.... 
 
 A GRAPHIC ACCOUNT, DESCRIPTIVE AND HISTORICAL, OF THE TROPIC ISLAND? 
 
 OF THE SEA WHICH HATE FALLEN UNDER OUR SWAY, THEIR CITIES, 
 
 PEOPLES AND 'COMMERCE, NATURAL RESOURCES AND THE 
 
 OPPORTUNITIES THEY OFFER TO AMERICANS. 
 
 Book I. The Philippine Islands. 
 
 Book II. Puerto Rico. Book III. Cuba. 
 
 Book IV. The Hawaiian Islands. 
 
 SPECIAL CHAPTERS ON TROPICAL CULTIVATION, SUGAR, COFFEE, ETC. 
 
 THE LADRONES, THE CAROLINES, AND OTHER ISLAND GROUPS OF THE PACIFIC, AND 
 
 THEIR COMMERCIAL RELATIONS. 
 
 TRUMBULL WHITE, 
 
 THE WELL KNOWN AUTHOR, HISTORIAN, WAR CORRESPONDENT AND TRAVELER AUTHOR 
 
 OF "OUR WAR WITH SPAIN FOR CUBA'S FREEDOM," ETC., ETC. 
 
 ELABORATELY ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS FROM ALL THE COUNTRIES 
 
 INCLUDED IN THE WORK. 
 
 J. H. CHAMBERS & CO. 
 
 ST. LOUIS, MO.
 
 Copyrighted by 
 
 TRUMBULL WHITE 
 
 1898
 
 SRU 
 UfiC 
 
 
 
 in 
 
 iltje jexrXje Wtliv
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 INTRODUCTION 15 
 
 BOOK I. THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 How THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND 33 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES 46 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 AGUINALDO AND His REVOLUTION 55 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 DEWEY AND THE RATTLE OF MANILA BAY 60 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 GENERAL MERRITT AND THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA.... 83 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS 106 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA 132 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 A RAPID GLANCE AT THE ARCHIPELAGO 156 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON 165 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 ILOILO AND THE VlSAYAN ARCHIPELAGO.. 1 88
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 ;.-. : VA 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 PALAWAN AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS 205 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 MINDANAO, ITS RESOURCES AND CONDITIONS 211 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO 222 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPINES 231 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 FAUNA AND FLORA OF THE PHILIPPINES 242 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 MINERAL WEALTH OF THE PHILIPPINES 249 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 NATIVE INDUSTRIES OF THE FILIPINOS 257 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 THE COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIES OF THE PHILIPPINES 263 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 THE LADRONES AND OUR OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS 271 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 WAR AND PEACE IN THE PHILIPPINES 291 
 
 BOOK II PUERTO RICO. 
 
 "Tin-: HEALTHIEST OF THE ANTILLES" 309 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 PUERTO Rico IN HISTORY 314 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 THE AMERICAN INVASION O<F PUERTO Rico 324
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR 341 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 PUERTO Rico, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE 359 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO Rico 372 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO Rico 392 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA AND THE HOTELS 401 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 THE AGRICULTURE AND PRODUCTS OF PUERTO Rico 414 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 CATTLE RAISING IN PUERTO Rico 421 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 THE FINANCIAL SYSTEM AND CONDITIONS OF THE ISLAND 426 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO Rico 436 
 
 BOOK III.-CUBA. 
 
 "THE PEARL OF THE ANTILLES" 455 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY 462 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER 473 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA 482
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN ................................... 496 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA ......................... 503 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA ................................. r2i 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR ............................. 534 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA ........................ 551 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA ............................. 568 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA ......................... 582 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES ........................... 598 
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS, RESOURCES AND THE FUTURE ........ ......... 607 
 
 BOOK IV.-THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 "THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC" ............................... 629 
 
 CHAPTER XLIV. 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII ................................ 632 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG ................................... 646 
 
 CHAPTER XLVI. 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS .......................... 663
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 The Three Great Naval Heroes of the War with Spain. 
 Meeting of Miles and Shatter at San Juan Hill. 
 Admiral George Dewey in the Battle of Manila. 
 Birthplace of Admiral Dewey, Montpelier, Vermont. 
 Spanish Naval Coaling Station, Santiago de Cuba. 
 Siboney, the Military Base in Cuba. 
 
 BOOK I. 
 
 Emilio Aguinaldo. 
 
 Group of Insurgent Officers. 
 
 Meeting of the First Congress of Filipino Insurgents. 
 
 Insurgent Soldiers in Pondo. 
 
 Native Children, Molo, Philippine Islands. Group of Natives Near Iloilo. 
 
 Typical Street in Jaro. Street in Iloilo. 
 
 Santa Ana, One of the Suburbs of Manila. 
 
 Common Mode of Punishment in the Philippines and Ladrone Islands. 
 
 Execution of Insurgent Soldiers. Cock Fighting in the Philippines. 
 
 Filipino Girl, Middle Class. Filipino Boy, Upper Class. Water Carriers in 
 
 the Philippines. 
 
 La Insular Cigar Factory, Manila. 
 Village on the Island of Camaguin. 
 Cordage Factory of Santa Mesa, Near Manila. 
 Street in Native Quarter of Iloilo. In the Suburbs of Iloilo. 
 Native Harpist of the Philippines. Negritos in the Island of Luzon. 
 Native Houses in the Suburbs of Manila. 
 Cathedral Within the City Walls, Manila. 
 On Corregidor Island, Entrance to Manila Bay. 
 A Freight Train in the Philippines. A Harrow in the Philippines. How 
 
 the Fields of the Philippines are Plowed. Hauling Bridge Timbers. 
 A Public Reader in Manila.
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 
 A Native Cab in Manila. 
 
 Rural Scene in Luzon. 
 
 Roadside Shop, Interior of Luzon. 
 
 Cigar Factory in Manila. 
 
 Interior of a Cigar Factory, Manila. 
 
 Typical Scene in Luzon. 
 
 Joss Rock in the Philippines. 
 
 Mouth of the Pasig River, Manila. 
 
 Bridge Across the Pasig River. 
 
 Church at Town of Antipole, Philippines. 
 
 Cebu, Philippines. 
 
 Village of Pampanga, Luzon. 
 
 Laborers in Tin Mines, Mindanao. 
 
 Village of Sacloban, Island of Leyte, Philippines. 
 
 Scene on the Pasig River. 
 
 Sugar Drying in the Philippines. 
 
 Street Scene in Sampoloc. 
 
 Native Wedding Festival. 
 
 Transportation in Albay, Philippine Islands. 
 
 Volcano in Albay. 
 
 Native Carriage in Luzon. 
 
 Typical Residences in the Outskirts of Manila. 
 
 Grinding Sugar Cane, Philippines. 
 
 Type of High-Class Woman of Manila. 
 
 A Native Padre of the Philippines. 
 
 Mestizo Children in Manila. 
 
 House of General Aguinaldo. 
 
 General Pilar and Staff of the Insurgent Forces. 
 
 Insurgent Fortifications Near Cavite. 
 
 John Chinaman in Manila. 
 
 A Farmer's Cart in the Philippines. A Social Group. 
 
 Filipino Policeman with Prisoners. 
 
 A Group of Spanish Mestizos. 
 
 Native Fishing Boat, Manila. River Pasig in the City of Manila. 
 
 Arsenal of Cavite. In the Stocks Three Days, Manila. 
 
 A Bathing Pool in the Philippines. Native Women of the Philippines. 
 
 Native Huckster of Manila. 
 
 Spinning in Manila.
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Woman of Batangas. 
 
 Agriculture in the Philippines. 
 
 Theatrical Performance. 
 
 Tropical Vegetation in the Philippines. 
 
 Peasant Homes in Luzon. 
 
 Moro Women in Mindanao. Fishermen in Iloilo. 
 
 A Native of the Caroline Islands. Native Man and Woman of the New 
 
 Eciaja. 
 
 Grinding Corn for Bread in Luzon. Native Chiefs of Mindanao. 
 Moro Weapons from Mindanao. 
 Native Hut Near Calamba, Laguna Province. Filipino Laborers Stripping 
 
 Bamboo. ' 
 
 BOOK II. 
 
 San Juan de Puerto Rico from the Sea Wall. 
 
 Cemetery, San Juan de Puerto Rico. 
 
 City Hall and Public Building, San Juan de Puerto Rico. 
 
 A Hillside Street in San Juan de Puerto Rico. 
 
 Landing-Stage for Small Boats, San Juan de Puerto Rico. 
 
 Scene on a Cattle Ranch, near Barceloneta, Puerto Rico. 
 
 Street of the Cross, San Juan de Puerto Rico. 
 
 Poultry Seller of Puerto Rico. 
 
 How Market Supplies are Transported in Puerto Rico. 
 
 San Justo Street, San Juan de Puerto Rico. 
 
 A Colored Belle of Puerto Rico. 
 
 Confection Venders of Puerto Rico. 
 
 The Governor's Palace, San Juan de Puerto Rico. 
 
 View of the Harbor, San Juan. 
 
 The Paseo, a Favorite Promenade of San Juan. 
 
 Government Offices in San Juan de Puerto Rico. 
 
 Belles of Puerto Rico. Cathedral of Gnayama, Puerto Rico. 
 
 BOOK III. 
 
 Tomb of Columbus, Havana. 
 Palace of the Captain-General, Havana. 
 The Indian Statue in the Prado, Havana. 
 Bananas in the Botanical Garden of Havana.
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Summer Cottage of the Captain-General, Havana. 
 
 Mule Cart, Havana. 
 
 The Cuban Village of El Caney. 
 
 Courtyard of Cuban House, Havana. 
 
 The Cathedral of Havana. 
 
 Havana of the Past, Barracks Erected in 1573. 
 
 Cathedral Street, Santiago de Cuba. 
 
 View of Matanzas, Cuba. 
 
 Church of Monserrate, Matanzas, Cuba. 
 
 The Plaza, Matanzas, Cuba. 
 
 Suburban Residence Street, Matanzas, Cuba. 
 
 Plaza de Armas, Havana. 
 
 Drive to Caves of Bellamar, Matanzas. 
 
 Interior of Caves of Bellamar. 
 
 Sugar Mill near Culea, Cuba. 
 
 Passenger Boat Landing in the Harbor of Havana. 
 
 BOOK IV. 
 
 The Annexation of Hawaii. 
 
 Sugar Cane Plantation, Hawaii. 
 
 Main Street, Honolulu. 
 
 The Atherton Residence, Honolulu. 
 
 Native Grass House near Pearl Harbor. 
 
 Luati, or Open Air Feast, Hawaii. 
 
 An Island in Pearl Harbor, Hawaii. 
 
 American Engineers in Pearl Harbor. 
 
 Planting Rice, Ha\vaii. Pineapple Ranch, Hawaii. 
 
 Natives of Hawaii Making "Poi." 
 
 President Dole and Senator Morgan at a '"Luau." President Dole of the 
 
 Hawaiian Republic. 
 "Off to America. Sailing Day at Honolulu. American Congressional 
 
 Party at a "Luau," Honolulu.
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Kipling's Toast to the Native-Born New Lands to be Ruled by American Law or 
 Dominated by American Influence Problems of Colonial Government to be 
 Solved The Philippines, Puerto Rico, Cuba and Hawaii, Each Its Own Puzzle 
 American Possessions Extending Half Way Around the World The United 
 States and the Eastern Question Poverty of Information Available Concern- 
 ing Our New Island Possessions Opinions of the Secretary of Agriculture on 
 the Importance of the Islands to American Farmers, Merchants and Mechanics. 
 
 I charge you charge your glasses 
 
 I charge you drink with me 
 To the men of the Four New Nations, 
 
 And the Islands of the Sea 
 To the last least lump of coral 
 
 That none may stand outside, 
 And our own good pride shall teach us 
 
 To praise our comrade's pride. 
 
 Rudyard Kipling. 
 
 WITHIN the measure of a single year, there have come into the 
 possession and under the sway of the United States of Amer- 
 ica, four splendid colonies. Two have been captured by force 
 of American arms on land and sea; one has been aided to her own 
 experiment in freedom with an assurance of American assistance, ad- 
 vice and dominance in the organization of her new life; one has come 
 to us of her own free will, to join the western republic and obtain 
 greater measure of prosperity, progress and security. 
 
 So far as political relationships are concerned, all remain with an 
 element of doubt. It is impossible to presage exactly the forms of gov- 
 ernment which wisdom may prescribe for Puerto Rico and Hawaii ; it 
 is impossible to know in advance the details of transfer of the Philip- 
 pine islands from the power of Spain to the nation that is to inherit 
 
 15
 
 16 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 them; it is impossible to be assured what measure of peace, what 
 
 outlines of government, and what American relationships are to be the 
 
 immediate sequence of affairs in Cuba. The Philippines have been 
 
 cursed by Spanish influence since the day of Magel- 
 
 PROBLEMS THAT ] an ' s discoverv, and with their swarming millions of 
 
 iiiip rpA 1> V 
 
 SOLVED. orientals present a problem not to be solved hastily. 
 Concerning them intuition must wait upon logic and 
 experience. We have found the islands in the midst of their own effort 
 to throw off the yoke of Spanish oppression, and we have lifted the 
 burden from their shoulders. Cuba comes to her freedom through cen- 
 turies of oppression and misrule, the last three years, with all their 
 horror and suffering, perhaps the happiest, because they were years 
 during which patriots were fighting for the liberty of their own land. 
 Hawaii comes under the banner of the stars and stripes, of her own 
 motion, as the ultimate solution of her own island puzzle, a puzzle in 
 which romance, commerce, history, tragedy and farce shared former 
 years with restlessness and revolution leading to the republic. Puerto 
 Rico, the only one of the four in which violence of late has been at rest, 
 has suffered hardly less than her neighbor in the Antilles from the 
 blight of Spanish dominion, and her people rejoice not less over the 
 change in their station. 
 
 "Our New Possessions." 
 
 It is these things that justify to all alike the phrase, "Our New 
 Possessions." Islands are no less in possession merely because political 
 rule may not extend to them. If responsibility for the liberty, the peace, 
 the commerce, the education of a people are not to imply a measure of 
 possession without the additional link of political affiliation, the use of 
 the expression will have to be revised. If we possess the commerce and 
 the friendship of our neighbor islands it is enough to explain the word. 
 To dominate in commercial influence and in all things for the uplifting 
 of a swarming population of alien races, is a function as worthy and of 
 more interest and consequence to most of our people, than the mere 
 detail of official sway. The Philippines, Puerto Rico, Cuba and
 
 INTRODUCTION. 17 
 
 Hawaii, all by moral right and manifest destiny are the noble fruits of 
 victory and the rising power of the great American commonwealth. 
 From the eastern capes of Puerto Eico to the western- 
 most of the Philippines is half way 'round the world. K0 SUNSET ON 
 
 . AMERICAN 
 
 When the sun is sinking in the western horizon, be- SHORES. 
 
 fore the eyes of the American citizen of Manila, it 
 will be dawning again in the east for the American citizen of Puerto 
 Rico. Its rays will gild the hills of the Spanish islands of the Carib- 
 bean, flash over the hills of our own eastern states, the prairies of our 
 middle west, the mountains of Colorado and of California, and without 
 an intervening moment of darkness will pass on over Alaska, the 
 Hawaiian islands, the extremest of the Aleutian chain and the Ladrone 
 islands to that most eastern of all or most western, according as one 
 journeys around the w r orld to reach the Philippines. The sun will 
 never set on American possessions. 
 
 For good or ill, the United States has entered upon a colonial 
 policy, a policy of expansion, a policy which forces us into the position 
 of a world-power, deep in the complications of international politics and 
 the Eastern Question. It is now too late to turn back. Once having 
 reached this position, it is unnecessary to argue the importance of ob- 
 taining all the adequate knowledge available on the great questions in- 
 volved. American citizens, with the welfare of their country at heart, 
 are endeavoring to familiarize themselves with the details of conditions 
 in these new dominions and in the countries adjacent to them. With- 
 out experience or precedents of eur own in a colonial policy, we are 
 forced into the position of creating one, without time for experiment. 
 We must learn while we govern and govern while we learn, and this too 
 in close comparison with our neighbor nations in the 
 
 Oriefit which have spent hundreds of years in the OUR NEW 
 
 NEIGHBORS IN 
 government of colonies and the methods of colomza- THE ORIENT. 
 
 tion. Great Britain, Germany, France, Russia, Hol- 
 land, Portugal and Spain will be our European neighbors in the Orient; 
 Great Britain and France in the W T est Indies. For intelligent de- 
 velopment of our new possessions and in order to make of them the 
 best lands possible for ourselves and for the millions who inhabit 
 them, we must know of the sphere of commercial and political influence
 
 18 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 of each of these colonial powers and their relations with Japan, China, 
 Korea, and the islands of the Orient in the Pacific, as well as with the 
 Ontral and South American republics that border the Caribbean. 
 
 The purpose of the accompanying volume is suggested in the fore- 
 going outline of an evident need. It is such an obvious necessity to 
 obtain and command the information on the subjects outlined, that 
 the effort of justification is beyond question quite superfluous. But the 
 subject itself is so ponderous and of such enormous consequence that it 
 would be presumptuous for any author to cherish aspirations toward 
 perfect success. The four books here included are but four books, and 
 if there be found in them omissions of consequence, they must be 
 charged to the material limitations of paper and covers rather than to 
 the desire of the writer. So far as inadequacy of treatment within 
 these limits is concerned, a generous judgment is hoped, the hope based 
 on this same consciousness of the intention to afford accurate, compre- 
 hensive and entertaining information of an important and valuable 
 sort within the limits here available. 
 
 It is w r orth while, in the beginning, to call some attention to the 
 
 exceeding poverty of information at present at command in printed 
 
 form, concerning the subjects which are to be treated herein. First to 
 
 mind come the Philippines, a group of islands the 
 
 MEAGER DiFOR- name o f ^1^ was bardlv known to Americans a 
 MJLTION ON 
 
 THE SUBJECTS. year a g- Says one of the most recent writers, jocu- 
 larly but pertinently, "By the victory of our fleet at 
 Manila bay, one more of the world's side-tracked capitals has been 
 pulled from obscurity into main lines of prominence, and the average 
 citizen is no longer left, as in days gone by, to suppose that Manila is 
 spelled with two 1's and is floating around in the South Seas somewhere 
 between Fiji and Patagonia. The Philippines have been discovered 
 and the daily journals with their cheap maps have at last located 
 Spain's Havana in the far east. It is indeed curious that a city of a 
 third of a million people capital of a group of islands as large as New 
 England, New York, Delaware, Maryland, and New Jersey, which 
 have long furnished the whole world with its entire supply of Manila 
 iemp, which have exported some 100,000 tons of sugar in a single year 
 and which to-day produce as excellent tobacco as that coming from the
 
 EMILIO AGUINALDO 
 
 General Aguinaldo, commander-in-chief of the insurgent armies in the Philippine Islands 
 
 and president of the newly organized government of the " Republica Filipino," is a 
 
 man of slight physique but great ability as an organizer and commander of men.
 
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 INTRODUCTION. 19 
 
 West Indies it is curious, I say, that a city of this size should have 
 gone so long unnoticed and mis-spelt. But such has been the case, 
 and until Admiral Dewey fired the shots that made Manila heard round 
 the world, the people of these United States with but few exceptions 
 lived and died without knowing where the stuff in their clothes-lines 
 came from." 
 
 Until the imperative demand for more explicit information con- 
 cerning the Philippines brought out a new crop of literature within 
 the last few months, there has been but one book of any particular con- 
 sequence regarding that island group. It so happened early in the 
 present year, that the necessity arose for me to gather for newspaper 
 publication such facts as were obtainable regarding the islands .then 
 rising into American prominence. I was anxious to 
 fortify and supplement my personal knowledge of the POVERTY OF 
 
 LITERATURE ON 
 
 subject with such other sources of information as I THE PHILIPPINES. 
 could find, in order to verify my own impressions, 
 opinions and recollections. I began by searching the encyclopedias 
 under all headings which could refer in any way to the islands and the 
 cities of the Philippine group, the natural resources of the archipelago 
 and the native races. Then I turned to the published volumes in one 
 of the greatest American libraries and searched through the works of 
 Spanish, German and English authors who had written on the same 
 subjects. Periodical literature was the next source of information, 
 and with the aid of Poole's exhaustive indices I drew on every maga- 
 zine which had printed a paragraph about the Philippines within the 
 last fifty years. When all was done and all the matter resulting col- 
 lated, there was a total yield of bullion from the great quantity of ore 
 which had been run through the stamp mill, not more than enough to 
 fill a half-a-dozen newspaper columns with authentic, serviceable in- 
 formation. Since then there have been printed in the newspapers of 
 the United States hundreds of columns of matter of variable reliability, 
 written by the most casual observers with the utmost speed. The 
 magazines have printed reminiscences from every traveler who has 
 visited Manila. Three or four volumes of varying value have been 
 rushed from the printing presses. The offerings now are larger, but 
 they have not all been of quality sufficient to satisfy the demands of
 
 20 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the American public for real information. The writer who wishes to 
 formulate anything of permanent service must turn again to his own 
 private sources of information, or collate and discriminate with the 
 utmost care. If there is any value in such work it must be in its ac- 
 curacy. It is well enough to be interesting when interest and authen- 
 ticity do not conflict, but the former must be sacrificed to the latter in 
 every case where they do not harmonize, if such work is to be of any 
 service to those who read and rely upon it. 
 
 Of Puerto Rico, exactly the same things are true as those suggested 
 
 concerning the Philippines. In spite of the proximity of this island 
 
 of the Antilles to our own shores, it has been an unknown land to our 
 
 people. Spanish policy has discouraged the develop- 
 
 PUERTO RICO men t of natural resources in Spanish colonies by the 
 
 ALMOST AN J . 
 
 UNKNOWN LAND, investment o f outside capital, while at the same time 
 the people of the colonies have been so oppressed that 
 they have not dared to develop at their own expense for fear of over- 
 whelming taxation. Tourists have visited the English colonies on 
 either side of Puerto Rico by hundreds, for every one who has visited 
 the Spanish island. Communication from the United States to San 
 Juan or Ponce has been infrequent and unattractive. The works of 
 travelers and scientists who have written about the West Indies have 
 contained chapters on the little islands of the Windward chain where 
 they contain paragraphs on Puerto Rico. Even those things that have 
 been written concerning the latter island, whether in Spanish, German 
 or English, have been in great degree inaccurate and valueless for any 
 practical purpose. A similar search made for material on Puerto Kico, 
 just prior to the outbreak of war, resulted like that search for facts 
 about the Philippines, in a meager and unsatisfactory quantity of un- 
 certain qualit}'. It was a satisfaction to me, which I am sure will be 
 pardoned, that I was able to spend sufficient time in Puerto llico during 
 the last few months to make careful personal study of every phase and 
 condition of island affairs, with the purpose of obtaining satisfactory 
 material for the present work. In whatever else the following pages 
 may fail, I pride myself that they do not lack accuracy in matters of 
 fact. 
 
 Cuba has had a larger measure of attention from writers and trav-
 
 INTRODUCTION. 21 
 
 elers than the other Spanish colonies, but the necessity for work of 
 another character is not yet obviated. Warfare has taken the domin- 
 a.nt place in all recent works on Cuba, to the exclusion of matter which 
 would relate to the works of peace. Travelers of the past have visited 
 Havana and a few other cities of the island, and have written pictur- 
 esque descriptions of tropical scenery and life, with- 
 out paying much attention to commercial and indus- PEACE SUCCEEDS 
 trial affairs. The writers of the last few years have IN CUBA. 
 been compelled by the conditions within the island 
 and by the direction of popular interest outside, to treat of the progress 
 of insurrection instead of the works of peace and prosperity, which 
 Yv^ere forbidden by that very insurrection. But peace has its victories 
 greater than those of war. The sad history of oppression and insur- 
 rection in "The Pearl of the Antilles" seems to be ended, and with 
 Cuba at peace the riches of the island and the marvelous opportunities 
 for its future progress rise into view with an imperative demand for 
 attention. It has been my privilege to know alike the Spanish, the 
 insurgent and the American leaders in Cuba on both coasts of the 
 island. I have studied the industrial, agricultural, commercial and 
 social conditions of Cuba with some care, and I cannot deny the con- 
 viction that in some degree this study has been productive of worthy 
 results. 
 
 In the Hawaiian islands my study of affairs has not been less 
 careful. It has been directed into like channels concerning the indus- 
 trial, commercial, agricultural and social conditions, with special at- 
 tention to the solution of those problems which intermingle the history 
 of the Hawaiian natives with the dominance of American civilization 
 and the influx of Asiatic immigration. My last journey to the Ha,- 
 waiian group ended just in time to begin another to the Spanish col- 
 onies of the West Indies, at the outbreak of our own war with Spain, 
 during which I renewed the associations and the 
 study which had ended in Cuba less than a year be- ROMANrE OF IIIS - 
 fore. The Hawaiian islands, with their revolution WAHAN ISLANDS. 
 and their republic, have occupied much attention in 
 the public prints, but the subject has been by no means exhausted, and 
 with the change to American possession, interest in the matter and
 
 & INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the importance of it to American readers have been greatly multi- 
 plied. 
 
 Agriculture in the Tropics. 
 
 Not the least important of all the relations in which American 
 readers will have practical interest in our new possessions, is their 
 conditions in agriculture. We are pre-eminently an agricultural peo- 
 ple, and except for the bonanza seekers who settled California and 
 Colorado, most of our pioneering has been done by our farmers, who 
 have sought new homes and have made the waste places of the west to 
 blossom and bear rich fruits of husbandry. The Hon. James Wilson, 
 Secretary of Agriculture in President McKinley's cabinet, emphasized 
 an important truth in a speech made a few weeks ago to an audience of 
 Indiana farmers. He said in part: "What does all this mean to you 
 and me we producers, we fellows who cultivate the fields? It means 
 that we will begin to educate those people, and the moment you 
 educate a man he wants to dress better and eat better, and as you give 
 more employment to the factor} 7 people we fellows have better custom- 
 ers. That is what the immediate result will be. The men who rule the 
 world eat beef and wheat bread and they want to put creamery butter 
 on top of the bread. Where will that beef come from? Why, it is you 
 people who produce that beef. They don't produce bread. They don't 
 produce dairy products. So that the result of this war is going to be 
 more customers for the products of these magnificent pastures of yours. 
 We western men, in the Mississippi valley, will have more customers 
 millions more customers and millions more profits. I have been watch- 
 ing your rich soil. I have been looking at the corn- 
 
 ' OR fields and the animals grazing on vour pastures. You 
 THE AMERI- 
 CAN FARMER. see e possibilities, the benefit coming to you farm- 
 ers of this great state from intercourse with 
 people of the twentieth meridian, 'way down in those insular posses- 
 sions." 
 
 It has been my special pleasure, as well as care, in all my tropical 
 journeys in the West Indies and in the islands of the south and west 
 Pacific alike, to study the methods of tropical agriculture and the care
 
 INTRODUCTION. 23 
 
 and profit of crops strange to farmers of the United States. In all of 
 these islands one finds sugar and coffee and tobacco, with a host of 
 products of lesser importance but equal interest and sometimes greater 
 profit. Explicit information on these subjects, for the benefit of Ameri- 
 can inquirers, is a feature of the accompanying volume which is not 
 duplicated in any work of similar sort, so far as my knowledge extends. 
 I would be reluctant to close this introduction without full ac- 
 knowledgment of my indebtedness to the travelers and the writers who 
 have gone before me, in their works on subjects kindred to those in- 
 cluded in the present volume. Whether it be on the Philippines, 
 Puerto Rico, Cuba or Hawaii, nearly every recognized authority and 
 many of obscure fame have been read and studied in order to insure a 
 greater measure of accuracy and a greater fund of information. It is 
 impossible to name the entire list of those to whom I am frank to own 
 indebtedness, in the ranks of Spanish, German and English authors, 
 as well as American. But after all such obligations are recognized, I 
 cannot refrain from recalling that most of the essential facts and con- 
 clusions are the result of my own researches and travel. To the ex- 
 tent that I have drawn upon the fund of information of others, I still 
 have squared it by my own opinions and information and therefore have 
 made it my own. For it all, therefore, I am willing to accept judgment, 
 asking only what leniency may be expected from a generous public 
 always ready to recognize a worthy purpose, however far short it may 
 come in fulfilling its own desires.
 
 Book i. 
 
 Che Philippine Islands.
 
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 PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 
 
 Specially engraved for this work from the latest 
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 STATUTE MILES 
 
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 Palanan. 
 
 LUZON 
 
 Dilasac Bay 
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 OUR NEW POSSESSIONS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 
 
 The Trackless Wilderness of the Pacific Ocean Its Wonders of Science, Adventure 
 and Bomance Neighbors a Thousand Miles Apart "The Milky Way of the 
 Pacific" Voyages of Magellan, Cook and Byron The Pacific Islands in 
 Literature European Colonies in the East Indies Some Details of Geography 
 Polynesia, Micronesia and Melanesia How Magellan Entered the Service 
 of Spain The Search for New Spice Islands Mutiny, Wreck and Desertion 
 First Sight of the Philippines A Welcome from the Natives Treaties of 
 Peace, Brotherhood and Allegiance Death of Magellan Return of the Expe- 
 dition to Spain Philip II. Sends a Conquering Force to the East Indies 
 Legaspi's Invasion of the Philippines Success of the Spanish Arms Manila 
 Declared the Capital Legaspi and Weyler. 
 
 WESTWARD from San Francisco lies the lonesomest ocean of 
 the earth, except those unknown icy seas in the Arctic and 
 Antarctic polar regions. The Pacific ocean, stretching ten 
 thousand miles north and south and varying from four to eight thou- 
 sand miles from east to west, is so stupendous in its area and so com- 
 prehensive in the wealth of its interest, that science and commerce have 
 barely begun to discover what may be found w r ithin these limits. It 
 sweeps from Behring strait to the Antarctic icebergs. On the east both 
 Americas bound it, from Alaskan shores to Cape Horn. Westward 
 the limits are the coasts of Asia and Australia. In its deepest abysses 
 the most extreme ocean depths ever sounded are forms of life found 
 now T here else. Ranging through every zone from north to south and in- 
 cluding, as it does, those portions of the earth which are alike the geo- 
 graphical and the ethnographical antipodes of European and American 
 civilization, it contains material for a hundred books on a hundred sub- 
 jects, without exhausting the things of consequence and interest. 
 
 In the great triangle of which the corners may be assumed to be 
 
 33
 
 34 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 
 
 Easter island in the southeast, Sumatra in the southwest and the 
 Siberian island of Saghalien in the northwest, are included thousands 
 of islands hardly known to geographers, and peoples whose character- 
 istics have never been studied. The distances are far greater than 
 usually comprehended. Some fanciful writer with a capacity for apt 
 phrases, has called the central portion of this great sweep of islands 
 "the milky way of the Pacific." By the chart the phrase is justified, 
 for the islands on a small map seem dotted as thickly as the stars in 
 heaven. One must stop to measure the scale in order to realize that 
 these groups are separated, not by intricate channels difficult of navi- 
 gation, but by hundreds or even thousands of miles of deepest ocean. 
 Neighborhoods in the mid-Pacific are measured even more generously 
 than among the prairie farms of our western plains, and the white 
 settler on one coral reef feels less lonesome when he learns that there 
 is another within three or four days' Scil of his schooner. 
 
 There are names famous in the exploration of the south seas 
 which will occur to every reader's mind. Magellan discovered the 
 DISCOVERIES Philippines and Cook the Hawaiian islands, as we in 
 OF COOK sist on saying when some one from our own circle of 
 AND civilization finds something of which we did not know 
 
 MAGELLAN. be f orej although the people who lived in the adjacent 
 regions may have maintained a commerce and a primitive civilization 
 of their own for hundreds of years without ever realizing that 
 they had not been discovered. Magellan sailed through the straits 
 between Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, which still bear his name, 
 reaching the spice islands of the Pacific. Legaspi, the next great Span- 
 ish explorer in the East Indies, named that notable group for his own 
 sovereign, under whose patronage he was sailing King Philip of Spain. 
 Captain Cook in the voyage which brought him first to the Hawaiian 
 archipelago, where he was afterwards slain by the natives, found a 
 civilization, crude it is true, and even cruel, but it was their own, and 
 he was as presumptuous as the other explorer in naming the new- 
 found islands for his own patron, Lord Sandwich of the British 
 admiralty. It is a strange contradiction of the ideas usually accepted 
 regarding the stability of Spanish and English impress upon the lands 
 reached by those influences, that the Spanish name still stands where
 
 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 35 
 
 it was first supplied, while the name of Sandwich is almost forgotten 
 in connection with the more eastward island group. 
 
 Lord Byron, the uncle of the poet, was another who explored those 
 seas, while in an earlier day Tasman and Van Dieman and many 
 another whose name is preserved in the geography of the south seas, 
 cruised about to find the remote lands that were then new to European 
 knowledge. 
 
 Masters of literature have found material for the delectation of 
 their readers in these far-away waters. Herman Melville and Robert 
 Louis Stevenson, Charles Warren Stoddard and Mark Twain, Louis 
 Becke and Joseph Conrad are those who have written the descrip- 
 tions, the romance and the fiction of the south seas in most attractive 
 form. Scientists have studied ethnology in the islands and marine life 
 at sea. Yachtsmen have cruised for the pleasures of the picturesque 
 life of the islands. Now commerce is coming to the fore. 
 
 It is only by studying the charts that one can have accurately 
 placed in mind the relative locations of the distinct 
 groups in this great stretch of ocean. The Hawaiian ISLAX1) GROUPS 
 
 Ox 
 
 islands, although more than two thousand miles THE PACIFIC. 
 southwest of San Francisco, are but the eastern 
 boundary of the volcanic chains. Tahiti of the Society islands, the 
 Friendly islands, the Sanioan or Navigators' group, Earatonga, Tonga- 
 tabu, the Marquesas, the Fiji islands, the Carolines, the Ladrones, the 
 Pelew islands, the Eadack chain and the Ealick group, are but 
 names in most minds, and yet each has its port, its commerce, and its 
 picturesque scenery and life. If one go farther westward into the 
 Orient, where the islands are larger and richer and more populous, 
 he will come to the Philippines and Java, Celebes, Sumatra, Borneo, 
 and others whose names even are unfamiliar but which support popu- 
 lations of millions \)j productions of untold value. 
 
 Every nation of Europe which has ever maintained outlying colo- 
 nies has shared in the profits and the government of these islands. Por- 
 tugal, Spain, Holland, Germany, France and England have divided 
 the spoils between them. Until military exigencies sent Dewey to 
 Manila during the early days of the Spanish- American war, our coun- 
 try had had no sphere of influence in the islands of the south and
 
 36 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 
 
 eastern Pacific except in the two groups of Hawaii and Samoa. For 
 many years the United States has been the dominant influence in the 
 Hawaiian islands. In less degree, but to an extent no less well defined, 
 the same influence has been dominant in Samoa, sharing this position 
 with Great Britain and Germany, but clearly leading them in the 
 mind of the natives. 
 
 Geography of the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 In the enormity of the Pacific ocean it is necessary to be more 
 explicit in one's geography than the mere characterization by points 
 of the compass. Geographers have named the island groups and the 
 seas which surround them according to the natural characteristics of 
 the natives they found or the fame of the explorer who visited them 
 or the conditions of language, fauna and flora. That little bit of 
 ocean between New Zealand and Australia, only a thousand miles 
 square, is called the Tasman sea. Between New Guinea and Australia 
 is the Arafura sea. That torrid body of water bounded by Borneo, 
 Sumatra, Java and Celebes is the Java sea. Between Indo-China and 
 the Philippines is the China sea. South of the Philippines and between 
 that group and Borneo and Celebes is the Celebes sea. These bodies 
 of water are as well defined in their boundaries and in their physical 
 characteristics as the Caribbean or Mediterranean. They and a dozen 
 others that might be named, which are contained within the outer 
 limits of the same great Pacific ocean, are the highway's of thousands 
 of vessels bearing commerce of enormous riches among the islands 
 of the Orient. 
 
 Geographically, the island groups of the Pacific are divided into 
 
 three great classifications, Polynesia, Micronesia, and Melanesia. Their 
 
 limitations are not exact, because to some extent they 
 
 . ' have been based on the kindred languages of the na- 
 
 MI( KOM.SIA, AM) 
 
 MELANESIA. tives in various island chains, and these by shipwreck 
 or daring explorations in their own canoes, haw scat- 
 tered about the Pacific until sometimes a Polynesian people may be 
 found thousands of miles from the parent stock of the race. Speak- 
 ing generally, however, Polynesia includes the southerly and easterly 
 islands which are inhabited by a race of savages of far higher type
 
 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 37 
 
 than usually realized by those who have not examined into the ques- 
 tion. It is among them that the nearest approach to American ideas 
 of civility and friendly welcome of strangers is found. Northwest of 
 the Polynesian groups are those classified under the general name of 
 Micronesia. They include New Guinea, the Solomon islands and others 
 where most ferocious savages of low and warlike types are found. Of 
 these many islands are still unexplored and avoided by navigators be- 
 cause of the threat of danger from the natives. In the northern part 
 of this division are included the Caroline, Ladrone and Pelew islands, 
 which have been under Spanish dominion and which are inhabited 
 by natives of a milder type than their savage neighbors to the south- 
 ward. Westernmost of all is that division of tropical islands known 
 variously as Melanesia or Malaysia, including Sumatra, Java, Celebes, 
 Borneo and the Philippines. With this preliminary information to 
 freshen flie memory of the reader concerning the geography of the 
 great tropical sweep of the Pacific ocean, we may apply ourselves 
 more specifically to the immediate subject before us. 
 
 It was but twenty-seven years after the first voyage of Columbus 
 that another voyage under Spanish auspices began, the results of 
 w T hich are now intertwined with our own history. 
 The period of exploration which made the fifteenth NOTABLE^PEBIOD 
 century notable and which was crowned by the EXPLORATION. 
 voyages of Columbus, stimulated the navigators 
 of Spain, Portugal, Holland, England and France to the utmost rivalry 
 in their search for new lands and new seas. Balboa's discovery of the 
 Pacific ocean induced many efforts to find the passage which pre- 
 sumably would give access to it from the Atlantic, but venture after 
 venture ended in failure. Spain was to profit once more by the work 
 of an alien, who, like Columbus, had turned from his own country to 
 a strange monarch for encouragement and means. Ferdinand Magel- 
 lan or Hernando Maghellanes, as the name stands in its original form, 
 was a nobleman of Portugal, who had campaigned for his king in wars 
 at home, fighting bravely and winning fame. Jealous companions 
 attacked him to the king, discrediting his service and the wounds 
 which rendered him a cripple. Eesenting the bitterness of his sov-
 
 38 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 
 
 ereign's ingratitude, Magellan left Portugal, became a citizen of Spain 
 and finally won the favor of King Charles I. 
 
 In those days monarchs were not exempt from the commercial 
 spirit, and an agreement was made by which Magellan undertook the 
 discovery of new spice islands. The king provided five vessels fully 
 equipped and was a partner in the venture to the extent of sharing 
 the larger part of the prospective profits. It was on the tenth day 
 of August, 1519, that the explorer set sail with his modest fleet, and 
 four months later the first stage of the voyage terminated with safe 
 arrival at Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 Magellan had to undergo an experience like that of his illustrious 
 
 predecessor and face a mutiny. Sailing from the Brazilian capital 
 
 southward, in the endeavor to find a passage to the 
 
 EXPERIENCES Pacific, he encountered severe cold weather and re- 
 
 Ur 
 
 MAGELLAN. sultant restlessness. The commander planned to enter 
 one of the rivers which came down to the ocean from 
 the interior of South America and there pass the winter, but his officers 
 and crews disagreed on this proposition, some wishing to sail for home, 
 some willing to follow their leader's plan, and others anxious to form 
 plans of their own. It was the captains themselves who were most 
 difficult to discipline. One of them was executed, in punishment for 
 an attack made upon the commander, and another was set ashore in 
 irons. Then the fleet entered the river as Magellan willed and passed 
 the winter there in safety and comfort. The expedition moved slowly 
 southward after spring opened, losing one ship by desertion and an- 
 other by wreck, but on the 28th of October, 1520, the remaining three 
 reached the straits separating Patagonia from Tierra del Fuego, which 
 ever since have been known by the name of this first European com- 
 mander who passed through them. 
 
 Sailing westward and northward for many weeks, on the Ifith of 
 March, 1521, Magellan discovered what we now know as the Ladrone 
 or Marianne islands. Magellan gave them a more musical name, call- 
 ing them the Islas de las Velas or islands of the sails, because of the 
 resemblance of some of the sharper hills, from a distance, to the sails 
 of his vessels. After a short stay on these islands Magellan sailed
 
 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 3d 
 
 southwestward, reaching for his next landfall the north coast of Min- 
 danao, the largest island of the southern Philippines. 
 
 Like Columbus in the West Indies, the explorer found the natives 
 friendly and glad to furnish the Spaniards with plentiful provisions. 
 The local chief, who was, perhaps, the king of the island, related 
 enticing tales of the riches of the other islands in the archipelago, par- 
 ticularly of Cebu, and offered to pilot the expedition there because the 
 king was a relative of his. Naturally this generous 
 proposition was accepted with alacrity, and Magellan, 
 after taking formal possession of Mindanao in the ''MINDANAO. 
 name of his Spanish patron, sailed away for the 
 neighboring islands. He reached Cebu on the 7th of August, his arrival 
 spreading alarm among the natives who saw from the beach the 
 strange craft. The chieftain from Mindanao, however, gave them 
 assurance that the strangers were but seeking food and were without 
 any hostile design. The king of Cebu thereupon proposed to make a 
 treaty with Magellan with both Spanish and native ceremony. This 
 proposition was welcomed by the Spanish commander, who brought 
 his men on shore, where impressive ceremonies were performed. The 
 Spaniards erected a hut and celebrated mass in it, much to the interest 
 of the impressionable natives. The members of the royal family and 
 their retainers and other influential men were baptized and swore 
 allegiance to their new master, the King of Spain. Then the native 
 custom followed and the ceremony of exchange of blood in token of 
 brotherhood was celebrated. No time was lost in beginning the 
 activities which were to follow this offensive and defensive alliance. 
 The king was in the midst of war with some of his neighbors and 
 Magellan entered into the conflict with his own men and arms with 
 apparent pleasure. The result was fateful to him. Within a few 
 months he was fatally wounded during an unimportant skirmish on 
 the little island of Mactan, and died there in a short time. 
 
 Spanish Slain by Treachery. 
 
 Once the dominant force of Magellan's personality was absent, 
 the expedition found its troubles multiplying. Trouble rose between 
 Spanish and natives and twentj'-seven of the former were slain by
 
 40 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 
 
 treachery at a banquet where they had been the guests of honor. The 
 total number of men for the three ships was now reduced to one hun- 
 dred, an altogether insufficient number for the long homeward voyage. 
 As a measure of prudence, one of the vessels was burned and the other 
 two sailed westward again, this time discovering the large island of 
 Palawan and touching a part of north Borneo. At Tidor a cargo of 
 spices was taken aboard, but one of the vessels sprang a leak and had 
 to be abandoned. The other continued the voyage and finally reached 
 Spain again, after undergoing many more hardships and adventures 
 for her crew,*thus completing the first circumnavigation of the globe. 
 
 Although the results of this notable voyage were sufficient to 
 stimulate King Charles to the organization of two more expeditions, 
 neither of them accomplished anything commeusur- 
 ate witn the expense, labor and time involved. It was 
 PHILIPPEVES. not until more than forty years later that an} 7 serious 
 attempt was made to reduce the lands to pos- 
 session. Although the Philippines were nominally a part of the 
 Spanish realm, their value was a matter of doubt, no commerce with 
 them was organized, they produced no revenue, and there was not 
 even a Spanish officeholder in the whole of the archipelago. It was 
 Philip II., in whose honor the islands were to be named, inspired by 
 religious zeal, who set out to conquer and convert to Catholicism the 
 millions of islanders. 
 
 The expedition was equipped in the American colonies of Spain, 
 four ships' and a frigate being made ready on the west coast of Mexico. 
 Four hundred soldiers and sailors were gathered as an army of inva- 
 sion under the famous leader, Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, with six Augus- 
 tine monks to introduce Christianity and look after the spiritual wel- 
 fare of the native races who were to be conquered. The date of this 
 expedition was 1563, but its progress was slow and some years inter- 
 vened before the islands came under extended influence of the Span- 
 iards. Legaspi took possession of Magellan's Islas de las Velas on 
 the way, changing the name to the Ladrone or "robber 1 ' islands, as a 
 tribute to the expert thievery of the natives, who adroitly stole a boat 
 from one of his ships. 
 
 Legaspi reached the Philippines first at Camaguin, and after
 
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 NATIVE CHILDREN, MOLO, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 
 
 This group of youngsters seems almost as good-natured as would an American boy, were he, like 
 them, standing beside a cocoanut palm tree, with a banana plant growing just behind him. 
 
 GROUP OF NATIVES NEAR ILOILO 
 
 This picture was taken in a vill.^e on the Island of Panay near the second city of the archipelago.
 
 TYPICAL STREET IN JARO, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 
 
 This is an excellent representation of a village street in one of the outlying districts of Luzon. 
 
 STREET IN ILOILO 
 
 This is the second city in the Philippine archipelago measured by its commercial importance, and its 
 
 volume of trade is considerable.
 
 HOW THE PHILIPPINES WERE FOUND. 45 
 
 touching at Bohol arid sending one of his boats at Mindanao, decided to 
 begin his invasion of Cebu. The ruling monarch, who had succeeded 
 the king of Magellan's time, was much exercised upon the arrival of 
 the squadron, and, selecting one of his bravest subjects, sent him as 
 a spy to report on the Spaniards. The man came back deeply im- 
 pressed by what he had seen, to assure his sovereign that the ships 
 were manned by giants with long pointed noses, who were dressed 
 in magnificent robes, ate stones, drank fire and blew smoke out of their 
 mouths. With such a report as that filed for his 
 
 official consideration, the king could do little but make ADVENTURES 
 
 OF 
 peace Avith the powerful strangers. When Legaspi LEGASPI 
 
 landed on the 27th of April, 1565, to take possession 
 of the town, he met a welcome, but the natives soon became suspicious 
 of his motives and made energetic attacks upon him. At one time his 
 force was in great danger of extermination, but he held on bravely 
 while the people grew accustomed to the new conditions. Then the 
 Portuguese appeared on the scene and set up a claim for the islands, 
 but they w r ere soon driven off and the pacification of Cebu and the 
 neighboring islands proceeded steadily. 
 
 In 15G9 Panay was invaded and the next year Legaspi's grand- 
 sou, Salcedo, w T as sent with an expedition to subdue Luzon. June 24, 
 1571, the first city council of Manila was established and forms of 
 government were enacted. One year later Legaspi died. 
 
 The remarkable energies and abilities of this first conqueror of 
 the Philippines cannot be ignored. His achievements were almost 
 incredible. In Spain to-day he is still named as one 
 of their notable heroes of conquest. Strange enough E .?* A j?? 
 
 Alii LI 1 1 Or 
 
 seems the coincidence that General Weyler, who was LEGASPI. 
 
 himself the governor-general of the Philippines three 
 hundred and twenty years later, should be the individual most respon- 
 sible for the cruelties in Cuba which led to American interference in 
 the affairs of that Spanish colony. Another detail of coincidence is 
 that the Spanish gunboat employed by General Weyler in Cuban waters 
 for his personal use between ports and as his personal dispatch boat, 
 in which service I have seen it many times in Havana, was the Legaspi, 
 named in honor of that first governor-general of the Philippines.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES; 
 
 The Chinese Invasion of Luzon A Mongolian Colony in the Philippines Massacres 
 of the Chinese by the Spanish Insurrection and Revolt in the Archipelago 
 Uprising of the Natives of Bohol, with the Causes of Outbreak Revolution 
 in Mindanao Trouble at Cavite Expulsion of the Jesuits Five Thousand 
 Killed in One Week A Premature Explosion of Fire-works Revolt Engen- 
 dered by Spanish Friars The British Capture of Manila The Difficulty of 
 Letting Go of an Undesirable Capture Asiatic Cholera in the Philippines 
 
 Massacre of Foreigners A Period of Merciless Peace. 
 
 * 
 
 THE Spaniards were hardly more than comfortably settled in 
 possession of their easily acquired new domain, when troubles be- 
 gan to brew. The rulers of China and Japan both claimed rights in 
 the archipelago, and the former made a strenuous effort to enforce his 
 rights and expel the rival conquerors. Between 1573 and 1575 ten 
 separate attacks were made upon Manila by fleets from Canton and 
 Amoy, with great loss on both sides, although, as might have been 
 expected, the Spaniards ultimately were victorious. 
 
 The most desperate of these attacks was that under the Chinese 
 general and pirate, Li Mali Ong. The records are somewhat confusing 
 as to his identity and status. At any rate he chanced to fall in with a 
 Chinese trading junk which was returning from a trip to Luzon. This 
 he captured and forced her crew to pilot him to Manila. He brought 
 with him a formidable fleet of sixty-two armed junks carrying 4,000 
 men and 1,500 women. Hurried preparations were made for the defense 
 of Manila against the threatened raid. The Chinese attacked the city 
 immediately upon their arrival, forcing their way within the walls of 
 the citadel itself. Hand to hand combats lasted for several days. The 
 Spaniards fought with bravery, finally repelling the Mongolian in- 
 vaders. Many vessels of the Chinese fleet were destroyed and large 
 numbers of the soldiers and sailors killed. 
 
 40
 
 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 47 
 
 Li Mali Ong next landed on the west coast of Luzon, establishing 
 a settlement at the mouth of the Agno river, where he remained un- 
 disturbed for several months. Then a strong force was sent against 
 him and again he was driven out. With the larger part of his force 
 he left the archipelago for good. Many of the soldiers, however, were 
 driven into the mountains as fugitives. With char- 
 acteristic Chinese philosophy they settled in the fer- SPANISH WARS 
 tile valleys of the interior and started communities THE CHINESE. 
 which are still flourishing at the present time. They 
 took w T ives from among the savages and to-day their descendants are 
 hardly distinguishable from other Malays, although they take deep 
 pride in their descent and look down upon their neighbors as being of 
 an inferior race. 
 
 The Spanish conquerors did not forget their antagonism to the 
 Chinese, and at various times there were general massacres of the 
 Mongolians which cost them thousands of lives. One of the more nota- 
 ble massacres of the Chinese took place in 1662. There was a Mongol 
 chief in China who refused to yield at the time of the Tartar invasion 
 in the middle of the seventeenth century. Instead he sailed to Formosa 
 with his troops. At that time Dutch settlements had been founded in 
 the island and 2,800 of the Europeans were attacked by about 100,000 
 Chinese and were forced to surrender. Word reached Manila that the 
 Chinese were contemplating a descent upon the Spanish colony and the 
 governor of the Philippines accused the Chinese among his own sub- 
 jects of conspiracy in the contemplated attack. All the available forces 
 were concentrated and when everything was ready the Chinese were 
 incited to rebel and a general massacre followed. Men, women and 
 children were killed indiscriminately, the Spaniards at first intending 
 to kill every one of the Chinamen. Before they had carried out this 
 intention it fortunately occurred to them that the resulting lack of 
 tradesmen and mechanics would cause inconvenience, so those who re- 
 mained alive were graciously pardoned on condition of laying down 
 their arms. Some of the Chinese escaped to Formosa. 
 
 In 1709 another massacre of Chinese occurred, this time only a few 
 hundreds of the luckless Mongolians being killed. The rest of them, 
 however, were deported and after the fashion that had been estab-
 
 48 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 lished, all their property was confiscated and divided between the 
 church and state. Between 1628 and the middle of the next century 
 nine attempts were made by the Spaniards to conquer the Sulu islands, 
 but in every instance they were repulsed with heavy losses. 
 
 The history of insurrection and revolt in the Philippines does not 
 begin with the current one, of which General Aguinaldo is the leader. 
 Although our interest has not been sufficient to be directed to the Phil- 
 ippines until recently, the population of those islands have had to con- 
 tend with oppression which they have resented by 
 uprisings frequently and as energetically as at the 
 
 Off 
 
 INSURRECTION. P resent time. The first noteworthy uprising was 
 made by the natives of Bohol in 1622. The causes 
 which led to it were the same which have provoked many of the more 
 recent revolts, namely, the tyranny of the church and the burdensome 
 taxes levied by church and state alike. The rebels were dispersed by 
 troops under the governor of Cebu. So far as the causes of the outbreak 
 of insurrections are concerned, they do not need to be reiterated in the 
 successive revolts. Sometimes some special feature of oppression stim- 
 ulated the outbreak as its immediate cause, but the seeds of discontent 
 always lay dormant under Spanish dominion ready to germinate at the 
 slightest signal. 
 
 The people of northeast Mindanao broke out with another revolt 
 in 1629 and were promptly suppressed. Twenty 3 r ears later, the people 
 of Samar rebelled on account of an attempt to force them into mili- 
 tary service. Under the leadership of a chief named Sumoroy they killed 
 a priest and sacked the churches along the coast. The governor of 
 the island dispatched native emissaries to bring in Sumoroy's head, 
 but they sent him instead the head of a pig. The revolt spread and 
 
 troops wore dispatched into the interior to quell it. 
 THE REVOLT They ^ [}Q([ to take g umor bnf fonnd h}s mother 
 Ur 
 
 CHIEF SUMOROY. m a nilt ' an( l> true to Spanish traditions, literally tore 
 the defenseless old woman to pieces. Sumoroy was 
 at length betrayed by his own people. This uprising spread to other 
 provinces and trouble arose in Masbate, Cebu and Mindanao. In the 
 latter island things assumed so threatening an aspect that a large force 
 of infantry was sent against the rebels. The officer in command, being
 
 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 49 
 
 a diplomatist, first published a general pardon in the name of the 
 king. He then made prisoners of the crowds of insurgents who flocked 
 to his camp and sent them to Manila, where a few of them were par- 
 doned and others executed, the majority, however, being made galley 
 slaves. 
 
 The natives of Pampanga province grew weary of being obliged to 
 cut timber for the Cavite arsenal without pay, and in 1660 they revolted. 
 Neighboring provinces joined in the rebellion and a native named 
 Malong was declared king. He organized an army which was re- 
 cruited to the number of nearly 40,000. Many Spaniards were killed, 
 but the natives were finally defeated and scattered by a force ridicu- 
 lously inferior in numbers to their own. 
 
 The Jesuit priesthood in the Philippines was the stimulus for one 
 of the more successful insurrections. In 1744 the despotism of a Jesuit 
 priest caused an uprising in Bohol. The priest had not only ordered his 
 parishioners arrested when they failed to attend mass, but had directed 
 that the body of one of them should be left unburied to decay in the 
 sun. The brother of this man organized a force, captured the priest 
 and paid him in his own coin, killing and exposing his body for four 
 days. The rebel forces were rapidly augmented by men who complained 
 that while they were risking their lives in military service for the 
 government, their homes were wrecked and their wives and families 
 maltreated to secure the payment of tribute. The insurgents main- 
 tained their independence for thirty-five years, at the end of which 
 time the Jesuits were expelled from the colony. 
 
 The famous revolt led by Xovales and Kuiz occurred in 1823. Under 
 these officers a body of native troops tried to seize Manila and place 
 their leaders at the head of the government. It is 
 needless to say that the attempt was an utter failure, I)ESPEK ^ T E WORK 
 
 Or 
 
 but it was very fierce and bloodthirsty, although THE REBELS. 
 short, and is said to have cost the lives of 5,000 people 
 Avithin a week. Among the other uprisings which may be mentioned 
 are one in Cebu in 1827, and one in Negros in 1844. The latter is said 
 to have resulted from the governor's compelling state prisoners to work 
 for his private advantage. 
 
 Until the rebellion of 1S9G broke out, the most formidable iusur*
 
 50 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 rection occurred at Cavite in 1872. There were conspirators both 
 at the arsenal and in the capital and it had been agreed that when 
 the opportune moment arrived, the Manila contingent should signal the 
 fact by discharging a rocket. The Cavite insurgents mistook fireworks 
 sent up at a local celebration for the expected signal and began opera- 
 tions prematurely. They were forced to retire to the arsenal and all 
 were eventually killed or captured. 
 
 Hostility to the Spanish friars was at the bottom of this uprising 
 also. A certain Dr. Burgos had headed a party which demanded ful- 
 fillment of the decisions of the Council of Trent prohibiting friars from 
 holding parishes. These provisions had never been carried out in the 
 Philippines, and the various orders were steadily growing more rich, 
 powerful and arrogant. It is commonly believed that churchmen were 
 the real instigators of this revolt, desiring to involve Burgos and his 
 followers in treasonable transactions and thus bring about their death. 
 However this may have been, the friars insisted that they should be 
 executed and were able to enforce their desire. 
 
 In the latter half of the eighteenth century, when all Europe was at 
 
 war, the Philippines did not escape the consequences of those far-away 
 
 hostilities. Great Britain declared war against France and Spain in 
 
 1761. Havana was captured by the British, as will be related in the 
 
 portion of this work which treats of Cuba, and a fleet was dispatched 
 
 under Admiral Cornish with orders to take Manila. On the 22d of 
 
 September, 1702, this fleet arrived before the doomed 
 
 WHEN DRAPER it d j d forces were disembarked under com- 
 
 CAPTURED 
 
 MANILA, mand of General Draper. After a stout resistance 
 
 upon the part of the Spanish garrison, which was 
 brave but far inferior to the English force in numbers, the city finally 
 fell. 
 
 The terms of capitulation were drawn np by Draper and the arch- 
 bishop of Manila, who in the absence of a governor-general was serving 
 in a double capacity. The agreement called for freedom in the exercise 
 of religion; security of private property; free trade for all the inhabi- 
 tants of the islands, and the continuance of the courts for the main- 
 tenance of order. The Spanish were to pay an indemnity of $4,000,000. 
 In harmony with a custom then sadly common among victorious armies,
 
 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. '51 
 
 the city was given over for pillage. The English troopers are said to 
 have shown moderation, but the Sepoys, of w r hom Draper had brought 
 2,200 from India, outraged, robbed and murdered the inhabitants in 
 the very streets. On the following day there was a similar scene, where 1 
 upon the archbishop protested and Draper restored order. 
 
 The surrendered territory included the whole archipelago, but the 
 English never occupied more than that part of it which lay immediately 
 around Manila. Even there the} 7 were not left undisturbed. One of 
 the justices of the supreme court named Simon de Anda escaped in a 
 native boat to the province of Bulacan. He declared himself governor- 
 general and raised an army, but the desultory fighting which ensued 
 between his forces and the British had no decisive results. A con- 
 spiracy to assassinate Anda and his Spanish followers was discovered 
 among the Chinese in Pampanga province and a massacre of the Mon- 
 gols followed. Anda was so enraged with them that he issued a procla- 
 mation declaring them all traitors and ordered them hanged wherever 
 found. Thousands who had been in no way concerned in the conspiracy 
 are said to have been executed. 
 
 The war indemnity which had been agreed upon was not forth- 
 coming. The British forces were harassed by attacks from without the 
 city and by fear of treachery within, and at last the officers fell to 
 quarreling among themselves. Meanwhile the war 
 
 TV T| "p Af"V T rl VT 
 
 had come to an end in Europe, and the evacuation of roTiFr - ' 
 Manila had been provided for b} T the terms of the ARE DIFFICULT 
 treaty of Paris concluded on the 10th of February, 
 1763. Anda, however, refused to consider the war ended until his 
 authority was recognized, and hostilities in the Philippines continued 
 for some months. Finally a new governor-general came from Spain. 
 The British commanders were quite ready to turn the difficult problem 
 over to him, and they promptly evacuated the city and sailed away, 
 although a considerable portion of the indemnity still remained unpaid. 
 It is more than likely that England would have kept the Philippines 
 at that time if the European war had continued much longer, but Spain 
 and France both sued for peace and the same treaty which ended the 
 French and Indian war, as it was known in the American colonies of
 
 52 THREE HUNDRED YEARS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 Great Britain and of France, provided for the restitution of Manila to 
 the government at Madrid. 
 
 A crisis of another form came to the Philippine islands in 1820, 
 
 which almost destroyed civilization in the colony. For the first time 
 
 in its modern history the archipelago was invaded by Asiatic cholera. 
 
 It began at Sampaloc, near Manila, spread to the capital city and 
 
 thence went into every part of Luzon. The mortality 
 
 npfrD 
 
 ft was frightful? some records declaring that over one- 
 
 OF CHOLERA. na ^ ^ *^ e population died from the disease. In the 
 
 height of the epidemic the ignorant Spaniards and 
 
 natives were seized with the idea that the disease was the result of a 
 
 wholesale plot to poison them in the interests of the foreigners of the 
 
 communit3\ Mobs rose all over the island and massacred Chinese, 
 
 French, English, Americans, and finally the Spaniards themselves. 
 
 Houses were burned, citizens robbed and buildings looted. Ultimately 
 
 the disorders were quelled. 
 
 Since the revolt of ^Tovales and Ruiz in 1823, the career of the 
 Philippines has been comparatively calm and quiet except the Burgos 
 rebellion at Cavite in 1872. There have been many minor uprisings, 
 riots and revolts, but the policy of the government has grown sterner 
 with the years and merciless measures have been put in effect The 
 smallest riot has been the signal for martial law. Small gunboats have 
 made it possible to rush troops to the scene of every insurrection and 
 not too much care has been taken to be sure of the guilt of those ar- 
 rested. Every one involved or suspected usually has been tried by court 
 martial and shot without delay. It was this condition which led up to 
 the Aguinaldo revolt of 1896 and was in effect at the time of that out- 
 break. Beginning with that revolution the history of the Philippines 
 has an American point of view to be considered.
 
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 W^MB-JI 
 
 EXECUTION OF INSURGENT SOLDIERS PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 
 
 The Spanish have never recognized their insurgent enemies as prisoners of war when captured, reserv- 
 ing the right to execute them as rioters if they chose. 
 
 COCK FIGHTING IN THE PHILIPPINES 
 
 This sport is as popular in the Philippine Islands as in Cuba or Puerto Rico, and is prevalent through- 
 out the islands.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 AGUINALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION. 
 
 Restlessness of the Filipinos Outbreak of Insurrection Characteristic Spanish 
 Policy Bribery and Treachery The Treaty of Biyak Cubans and Filipinos 
 Suffer Treachery Alike Terms of the Treaty Failure to Declare Amnesty 
 General Rivera Rewarded Proclamations of the Junta Patriotica and General 
 Aguinaldo Antagonism Directed against the Friars and not against the 
 Catholic Church. 
 
 TO THE people of the United States, the most familiar name of all 
 the native insurgents of the Philippine islands is that of Agui- 
 naldo. His title in full is Don Emilio Aguinaldo y Famy, Presi- 
 dent of the Revolutionary Government of the Philippines and General- 
 in-Chief of the Army, but his signature is usually the single word by 
 which he is known to us. Although we have known little of the prog- 
 ress of the insurrection against Spanish rule in the Philippines prior 
 to the arrival of Admiral Dewey, yet the Philipinos have been making 
 history for their islands long before that time, and their leader had not 
 reached his position of eminence by accident, but by his own energies 
 and abilities. 
 
 For a long time the native inhabitants of the Philippine islands had 
 been restless under the oppressive yoke of Spanish cruelty. Finally, 
 under the advice of the organized Junta Patriotica an insurrection was 
 begun, the principal strength of which was centered in the island of 
 Luzon, as a threat against the city of Manila, the seat of Spanish gov- 
 ernment, and in the island of Panay, in which is situated the city of 
 Iloilo, second in commercial importance in the archipelago. After a 
 surprising series of insurgent successes, the Spanish 
 government decided that bribery and treachery would SPAMSH ATTEMPT 
 be more effective defenses for their possessions in the PEACE. 
 
 East than would military operations. They began by 
 offering a large sum of money, f 800,000, to certain of the leaders of the
 
 56 AGUINALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION. 
 
 insurrection on condition that the latter use their influence among the 
 people to arrange for a treaty of peace and a termination of hostilities. 
 This treaty of peace, according to the stipulations made by the Spanish, 
 was to contain every concession for which the Filipinos had been fight- 
 ing, except political independence. 
 
 It is impossible to judge harshly the Filipinos who had been reared 
 under the tutelage of Spanish rule, for their failure to draw fine ethical 
 distinctions when such a proposition was placed before them. The 
 examples and practices to which they had been accustomed might 
 easity have demoralized men of sturdier moral fiber than these. Be 
 that as it may, these leaders took the position that if their people could 
 obtain everything for which they were fighting without longer warfare, 
 there would be nothing wrong in accepting such generous payment for 
 bringing about that desired consummation. Peace would follow with its 
 attendant blessings. There would be no more loss of life and property, 
 with the other suffering which always accompanies war. Their country- 
 men would have all the concessions for which they were striving and no 
 one would suffer b}" their own acceptance of an attorney's fee. There- 
 fore the proposition of the Spanish authorities was accepted and the 
 treaty of Eiyak was signed with great solemnity. Then came the time 
 to test the sincerity of the parties to the agreement. 
 
 It is well known that the Filipinos were ready to renew insurrection 
 under the same insurgent leaders before the outbreak of war between 
 Spain and the United States, the period of peace being but a short one. 
 The $400,000 which had been paid to the insurgent leaders had been 
 used advantageously for the purchase of arms and ammunition to carry 
 on their warfare, with the result that the Filipino forces were equipped 
 as they never had been before. It was an immense aggravation to the 
 Spaniards, and one readily understood, that their own cash had been 
 turned against them in this fashion. Some of the insurgent leaders 
 were with the troops surrounding Manila, while others remained at 
 Hongkong, where they continued to provide the munitions of war for 
 tlioir brothers in the field. This was the condition when Admiral Dewey 
 sailed from Hongkong to Mirs bay, and thence to Manila for the fight 
 that ended in the destruction of the Spanish fleet in the Philippines. 
 
 The whole justification or blame for the Filipinos rests on the
 
 AGUINALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION. 57 
 
 question whether or not the Spaniards, the other parties to the treaty 
 of peace, kept their part of the agreements so carefully made. The 
 facts seem to show that Spain followed exactly the 
 
 course which she followed in Cuba in 1878 to term- SPAIN'S 
 
 ,, m v ,, . , SHAMEFUL POLICE 
 
 mate the Ten Years' War. The programme as earned OF DECEIT. 
 
 out in each case, provided first for the bribing of the 
 insurgent leaders to use their influence for peace; second the promising 
 of whatever reforms were necessary to induce the insurgent armies to 
 cease fighting; third the immediate punishment of all the insurgent 
 leaders on whom they could get their hands as soon as peace w r as 
 actually established and matters in their own hands; fourth, the re- 
 newed and redoubled severity of treatment to the pacified colony; and 
 fifth, the utter ignoring and repudiation of every detail of the seductive 
 promises they had made. A natural consequence of this chain of cir- 
 cumstances was the renewal of insurrection in each case by the de- 
 ceived insurgents, as soon as new equipment and new organization 
 could be arranged. It is impossible to blame them for responding to 
 treachery after that fashion. 
 
 In order to do no injustice to the insurgent leaders, concerning the 
 money to be paid to them, it is but fair to state that there was no 
 secrec}" about it, nor did the men who formed the forces of their armies 
 consider that any impropriety was involved. In the stipulation of the 
 treaty it was declared that the Spanish government was to pay the 
 insurgent government a war indemnity of 800,000 pesos, in payment of 
 the arms, ammunition, depots and forts w T hich were surrendered, and in 
 order to indemnify those who were obliged to live abroad during the 
 armistice. These facts were known to the insurgent armies, and con- 
 sequently involved those to whom the money was paid in no charge of 
 unfairness or bad faith in their dealings. 
 
 By the terms of the treatv au armistice of three years was estab- 
 
 i/ / t< 
 
 lished and the natives were to lay down their arms 
 and turn them over to the Spanish authorities. The KEFO MISED 
 Spanish authorities on their part bound themselves SPANISH. 
 to grant certain reforms, of which the most important 
 were the restriction of the power of the religious orders, the repre- 
 sentation of the Filipinos in the Spanish Cortes, the future impar-
 
 58 AGUINALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION. 
 
 tiality of justice and law between Spaniards and natives in the Philip- 
 pines, the participation of natives in the office-holding of the 
 islands, and the liberty of the press. It was agreed that the gov- 
 ernor-general of the islands, General Primo de Rivera, should remain 
 in that position throughout the three years of the armistice as a guar- 
 antee that the reforms would be established, and that a general am- 
 nesty should be proclaimed. 
 
 The Spanish authorities were so far from carrying out their agree- 
 ments that it would seem almost as if they had studiously endeavored 
 to go as far as possible from the terms of the treaty, and for the further 
 irritation of the Filipinos. In the first place, General Rivera was re- 
 moved from his post very soon, thus withdrawing from the islands the 
 one who would have been best informed on the demands of the natives. 
 The general amnesty was never declared, although a few pardons were 
 given. Only half of the offered indemnit}- was paid. Instead of estab- 
 lishing the reforms, the very things which were most 
 SPANISH PROMISES irritating to tbe insurgents were aggravated. The 
 
 TO BE BROKEN. religious orders were given increased power, two 
 vacant bishoprics being filled at once by priests of 
 the very orders that were the first cause of the insurrection. In the 
 short time intervening between the signature of the treaty and the re- 
 moval of General Rivera from Manila, he denied the existence of the 
 agreement and executed many of the very persons whom he had prom- 
 ised to protect, endeavoring by this means to destroy the nucleus of the 
 revolution. In Spain he was given the decoration of the grand cross 
 of San Fernando, as a reward for the peace he had established. By all 
 of these things the Filipinos believed themselves absolved from any 
 obligation to Spain that had been assumed by the mutual agreements 
 included in the treaty. 
 
 Since the American invasion of the Philippine islands, numerous 
 proclamations and documents have been issued by Aguinaldo himself, 
 and by the Junta Patriotica, which are of great interest as showing 
 the trend of thought of the Filipinos. Some of these are addressed to 
 the people of the islands and others very evidently are intended for 
 reading by Americans. One of the more notable of these is an in- 
 junction to all the natives of the islands to maintain peace and patriot-
 
 AGU1NALDO AND HIS REVOLUTION. & 
 
 ism. It outlines likewise the desires of the islanders for their country. 
 They declare for a stable government elected by the people, with laws 
 enacted by those who are to live under them, and taxes levied fairly and 
 honestly. They declare for honest and economical civil service in the 
 charge of natives of the country, and such others as can serve as teach- 
 ers of proper administrative methods. They declare 
 for the liberty of business affairs, the construction of PROCLAMATIONS 
 
 OJc 
 
 means of transportation, and the establishment of a AGUIXALDO. 
 system of public instruction. The people are enjoined 
 not to fear any antagonism to the religion of the Roman Catholic church, 
 under which they live, because of American dominance, recalling that 
 the Catholic church in America shares the same freedom that is given 
 to all. In every proclamation issued by General Aguinaldo he has en- 
 joined upon his people the obligation to be peaceful, honest, and gen- 
 erous with the Americans. It has been an encouraging sign that these 
 proclamations have been conservative and intelligent in their tone. 
 
 The Filipinos draw a very clear distinction between the Catholic 
 church as an organization and the religious orders to which the Span- 
 ish priests in the islands belong. They claim that they are themselves 
 Catholics and that they honor the church and welcome its ministrations. 
 For the priesthood, however, they have nothing but blame. They assert 
 that the friars of the various orders, Jesuits, Dominicans, Franciscans, 
 Augustines and Recollects have been the worst enemies of the people, 
 prospering from their miseries, and traitors to their welfare. The 
 priests must go, they assert, because they are mischief-makers and dis- 
 turbing elements in the population. So deeply do they feel what they 
 assert, that it is to be doubted if any mercy would be shown the Span- 
 ish priesthood should the Filipinos obtain authority suflicient to ex- 
 ecute them. Thej 1 desire their ministry to be made up of people of their 
 own races, who are in sympathy with them. This condition is one 
 that cannot be ignored in any plans for the future of the islands.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 
 
 Departure from Hongkong Plan of the Battle The First Shot The American 
 Fleet Off Cavite The Flagship Olympia Begins the Fight Daring Sortie of the 
 Beina Cristina Torpedo Boats Attack the Olympia Spanish Vessels Burn- 
 ing The End of the Battle Condition of the Spanish Wrecks Strange Con- 
 ditions After the Battle Insurgents Organize Their Provisional Government 
 Fighting Between Spaniards and Insurgents Waiting for the Army of Oc- 
 cupation. 
 
 AT THE time of the outbreak of war between the United States 
 and Spain, the Asiatic squadron of the United States navy was 
 lying- at anchor in the harbor of Hongkong, the little British 
 island colony near Canton, China. On Sunday, April 24, while the fleet, 
 was still lying at anchor off Hongkong, Commodore Dewey received 
 pretty definite information that a state of war existed between Spain 
 and the United States. He was notified that the British secretary for 
 the colonies, Joseph Chamberlain, had decided that war had virtually 
 begun, and that all British ports would be compelled to observe strict 
 neutrality. The American squadron was given until 4 o'clock Monday 
 afternoon to leave the harbor. The Boston, Concord, McCulloch and 
 Petrel left Sunday afternoon at 2 o'clock. The Olympia, Baltimore and 
 Kaleigh left at 10 o'clock Monday morning. 
 
 The scenes and incidents attending the departure of the warships 
 were quite impressive. Promptly at 10 there was a simultaneous move- 
 ment forward by the three 1 ships, and then the band on every war vessel 
 struck up "Hail Columbia." The British soldiers on board of a British 
 troopship cheered as they passed, and the American sailors answered 
 vigorously. Little steam launches puffed alongside the Olympia and the 
 crowds of Americans on them waved handkerchiefs and cheere-1 until 
 the mouth of the harbor was passed. 
 
 The Kaleigh had unfortunately broken her air pump the day before 
 
 60
 
 D&WEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 61 
 
 and the speed had to be kept down. At about 3 o'clock the vessels 
 dropped anchor in Mirs bay, which is a little land-locked harbor thirty- 
 five miles north of Hongkong. The four other warships, which had gone 
 the day before, were at anchor, and the tw r o cargo boats, the Nanshan 
 and Zafiro, were lying off a short distance. The combined fleet seemed 
 to be very formidable. 
 
 The American Asiatic squadron, consisting of the flagship Olympia, 
 Baltimore, Raleigh, Boston, Concord, Petrel and McCulloch, and under 
 command of Commodore Dewey, accompanied by the transports Nan- 
 shan and Zafiro, left Mirs bay at 2 P. M. April 27 for Manila. The fleet 
 proceeded in regular formation across the China sea, 640 miles, and 
 sighted Cape Bolinoa at 3:30 A. M. April 30. This point is about 115 
 miles north of the entrance to Manila bay. The Boston and Concord, 
 and later the Baltimore, were then sent in advance of the fleet as scouts, 
 and to explore Subig bay for two Spanish worships, reported to be 
 there. This bay is thirty-five miles north of Manila bay. 
 
 At 5:15 o'clock on the afternoon of April 30 the squadron came to 
 a stop, and was rejoined by the Baltimore, Boston and Concord, which 
 failed to find the Spaniards. A conference of commanders was held. 
 It was decided to run past the forts of Corregidor island in the mouth of 
 the bay, which was said to be strongly fortified, that night. The ships 
 were ordered to conceal all lights except a faint stern light, which could 
 be seen only from the direct rear, and slip by the forts in darkness. 
 
 About 11:30 the entrance to the bay could be seen. Two dark head- 
 lands one on either side of the entrance showed up gloomy and 
 absolutely darkened against the shifting, uncertain clouds. In the 
 space between a smaller mass showed where the dreaded Corregidor 
 lies. A vivid patch of fire came slowly out from the black background 
 and the squadron bore down directly toward it. It proved to be Greek 
 fire, and was probably a night life buoy dropped by one of the ships. It 
 danced and darted on the face of the water and until it was discovered 
 what it was there was a lot of suppressed excitement among the crews. 
 
 At Corregidor it was understood the heaviest guns of the Spanish 
 were located. The entrance was also said to be planted w^ith mines, 
 and it was known that there were torpedoes waiting for the ships. Let 
 the approach and the battle be described by an eye-witness:
 
 G2 DEWEY AND Tti BATTLE OP MANILA BAY. 
 
 The Olympia turns in and steers directly for the center of the south- 
 ern and wider channel. The Baltimore follows and in regular order 
 the rest of the fleet glide on through the night toward 
 J^L the entrance. Still there is no firing from the forts, 
 
 E XCITE ME^ T 
 
 WAS INTENSE. anc * lt: 1S u P e( l that the daring maneuver may not be 
 discovered. The excitement at this time is intense. 
 The somber Corregidor and the big mass of hills at the south are 
 watched with straining eyes. 
 
 About this time the soot in the funnel of the McCulloch caught fire 
 and this circumstance may have revealed the movements of the fleet 
 to the enemy. The flames shot up out of the funnel like the fire of a 
 rolling-mill chimney. For a minute or two it burned and then settled 
 down to the usual heavy black rolls of smoke. 
 
 A faint light flashed up on the land and then died out. A rocket 
 leaped from Corregidor and then all was darkness and stillness again. 
 The nervous tension at this time was very great. Again the flames 
 rolled forth from the McCulloch's funnel and then again they gave way 
 to the smoke. There was grinding of teeth on the McCulloch, for of all 
 times in the world this was the most fatal time for such a thing to hap- 
 pen. While it burned it made a perfect target for the enemy. Still 
 there was no firing. 
 
 Now we are almost in the strip directly between two forts. The 
 Boston is 200 yards in advance of the McCulloch, but the Concord, 
 Petrel, Raleigh, Baltimore and Olympia are well in the harbor. 
 
 Suddenly, just at 12:15 o'clock, a flash is seen on the southern 
 shore, a white puff of smoke curls out, and the sound of a screaming 
 cannon ball is heard. It passed well clear of the McCulloch, toward 
 which it was fired. At the sight of the flash of flame and the subsequent 
 dull report we waited in keen anxiety to see whether the ship would 
 be struck. Now came an instant order from the bridge to load the after 
 starboard six-pounder and fire five shells at the point where the smoke 
 was seen. There was a short lull and the order was countermanded. 
 Then there came a sound like the crashing of thunder and from the 
 Boston went an eight-inch shell from her after gun. This was the first 
 shot fired by the Americans. 
 
 Immediately there came a whirring, singing shell that seemed to
 
 FILIPINO GIRL MIDDLE CLASS 
 
 FILIPINO BOY UPPER CLASS 
 
 WATER CARRIERS IN THE PHILIPPINES 
 
 We who are accustomed to having water from our own wells or hydrants, would find it difficult 
 to become familiar with the idea of having the precious beverage brought to our doors in earthenware 
 vessels by street carriers, yet that is what many people of the islands depend upon for their supply.
 
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 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OP MANILA BAY. 67 
 
 go a little ahead of the McCulloch's bow. The McCulloch now stopped 
 and sent a six-pound shot at the battery, following it a minute later with 
 another. The Spaniards answered this and once more the McCulloch 
 sent a shot toward the vague, indistinct cloud of smoke showing against 
 the dark hillside to the south. The Concord at this point fired a six- 
 pound shot. All this time there is no sound from Corregidor, and it is 
 a matter of surprise that shells have not been coming toward us from 
 both sides. Then there comes quiet and the squadron gradually steams 
 down the bay toward Manila. The Nanshan and Zafiro hug close to 
 Corregidor while coining in and escape being fired on. 
 
 During the firing there was the best of order on the McCulloch, 
 and no one seemed to lose his head. Chief Engineer Randall was over- 
 come b}' a nervous shock, probably apoplectic in character, and at a few 
 minutes after 2 o'clock he died. The orders have gone out from the 
 flagship to proceed at a four-knot speed toward Cavite, the naval sta- 
 tion, which is seventeen miles away at the head of the bay. This will 
 put the fleet close to the Spanish squadron and the great battle will take 
 place in the morning. 
 
 The men are now stretched out everywhere on their arms trying 
 to sleep. 
 
 It is remarkable to see how little commotion is caused by the death 
 of the chief engineer. The great dangers and thrilling events about to 
 happen so completely overshadow the passing away of one man that 
 the sad incident has created no stir. The body is sewed up in canvas 
 and lies on a bier on the quarterdeck and will be buried at sea later in 
 the day. 
 
 At 5:10 in the morning, just as dawn is breaking, the battle begins. 
 By this time the American fleet has arrived off Cavite and the bright- 
 ness of the approaching day reveals to both sides the position of the 
 
 enemy. The Spanish immediately begin firing, but at 
 
 OF 
 
 a distance of nearly four miles. At the sound of the 
 
 TTIIT 1 
 
 first shot the Olympia wheels and starts straight for MOR^I^; BATTLE. 
 the enemy. From every mast and every peak of the 
 American squadron floats a flag, and the sight of all these fluttering 
 emblems arouses an enthusiasm that never was experienced before. As 
 the Olympia steams over toward the Spanish the Baltimore, Ealeigh,
 
 G8 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OP MANILA &AY. 
 
 Petrel, Concord and Boston follow in line of battle. The McCulloch is 
 left to protect the transports. 
 
 Through the dimness of the early morning light the Spanish 
 vessels can hardly be seen, but as minute after minute passes the ships 
 and fortifications become more distinct. The Spanish are meeting 
 the advances of the squadron with continuous firing from the ships and 
 the forts. 
 
 So far there have been no answering shots from the American ships. 
 They are steaming on, grim and determined, and making directly for 
 the Spanish position. 
 
 At 5:23 the Olympia. fired the first shot, and at 5:40 the firing be- 
 came incessant. A battery at the mole, in Manila, and nearly five miles 
 to the east, has now begun firing, and the Boston is occupied with shell- 
 ing a fort on the mainland beyond the arsenal of Cavite. The Beina 
 Cristina, which is the Spanish flagship, shows up black and fierce in 
 front of the enemy's fleet. The Castilla is nearly abreast of her and 
 is protected by large barges, which makes it impossible for shells to 
 penetrate below the water line. The Don Antonio de Ulloa is a little 
 behind the other two vessels. From Bakor bay, the naval anchorage, 
 comes the fire from the Don Juan de Austria, a cruiser; the Isla de 
 Luzon and Isla de Cuba, protected cruisers, and the JVtarques del Ducro, 
 Gen. Lezo, El Correo and Velasco. These latter vessels steam back and 
 forth from the protection of the w r alls of the arsenal. Other smaller 
 vessels, evidently torpedo boats, can be seen occasionally coming into 
 view and then retreating behind the arsenal. 
 
 The American fleet now forms in a line, and, steaming in a wide 
 circle, pours shells from the port and bow guns as the vessels pass. 
 Then the ships swing around, and, continuing in the long ellipse, turn 
 loose the guns of the stern and the starboard side. Tn this way all the 
 guns on both sides of the warships are kept in action part of this time 
 and the vessels are constantly moving. The fleet makes three complete 
 circles, each time going in to shorter range, until a range of about 1,500 
 yards is reached. 
 
 There 1 are numberless exhibitions of daring shown by the Spanish. 
 At one time the Reina Cristina alone steamed out at full speed in the 
 very face of the combined American fleet with the intention of running
 
 DEWEY AMD THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 69 
 
 the Olympia down. All the American vessels concentrated their guns on 
 her and poured a perfect rain of shell through and around her. Still she 
 came on. As she approached nearer the terrible storm of projectiles 
 became too severe and realizing that the ship would be annihilated, the 
 Admiral swung her slowly around and started for the protection of the 
 navy yard. Just at this moment an eight-inch shell from the Olympia 
 struck the Reina Cristina in the stern and went right through her. In 
 a few minutes clouds of white smoke were seen coming from the ship. 
 The vessel was being pounded to death by the shells. Her whole inside 
 seemed afire, but still she kept on throwing shells. It seemed for a while 
 that she must go down, or that the Spanish flag must be lowered, but 
 at the very end through the smoke the pennant waved bravely from her 
 main peak, and she continued to belch forth flashes of flame and billows 
 of smoke. 
 
 Next two little torpedo boats started out in a desperate attempt to 
 torpedo the Olympia. They came on rapidly, exposed to the fire of the 
 American ships, and stopped to w r ait for the advanc- 
 ing Olympia. At this time the excitement on board BRAVE ASSAULTS 
 the flagship was the greatest during any part of the OLYMPIA. 
 engagement. The Olympia kept steaming on until 
 within eight hundred yards of the torpedo boats and then, as the latter 
 showed no signs of retreating, the flagship stopped and signaled the 
 fleet to concentrate their fire on those little terrors. The hail of shell 
 was fearful. Finally they turned and retreated. At this moment a 
 large shell struck one of them, and it w r as seen to dive headlong into the 
 sea, entirely disappearing from view. The other succeeded in regain- 
 ing cover. 
 
 A little while later when the American fleet is at the farthest point 
 in its circle of evolution, a gunboat slips out from the Spanish strong- 
 hold and starts for the McCulloch, hoping evidently by this bold move 
 to destroy the transports. As soon as this move is seen by Admiral 
 Dewey the fire is immediately directed on the gunboat, and it returns 
 to a safer place. 
 
 During the battle there are times when the American vessels pass 
 between the Spanish forces and the McCulloch. This vessel protecting 
 the transports lies about two miles from the fort and the Spanish ships.
 
 TO DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA SAY. 
 
 At these times the McCulloch is in direct range of the enemy's fire. 
 Shots scream through the rigging and fall into the water all around her. 
 One shot strikes about forty feet in front of her bow. 
 
 During all this fearful cannonading Admiral Dewey with Flag 
 Captain Lambertson stands on the bridge on the pilot house, absolutely 
 exposed, while the Olympia goes through the storm of shells coming 
 from the Spanish ships. 
 
 Now there are two vessels burning, the Reina Cristina and the Cas- 
 tilla, although both have their flags flying. The firing from these ships 
 seems to be decreasing, but whenever the hope arises that they are com- 
 pletely disabled they seem to renew it with greater vigor. It is impos- 
 sible to determine what damage is being done to either side. There 
 seems to be no great destruction among the American vessels, for each 
 time they revolve on that deadly ellipse the vessels all show up with 
 flying colors and undiminished fire. Three times they make the deadly 
 round, passing five times before the Spanish forces, each time drawing 
 in closer and closer. 
 
 Now the Olympia has ceased firing and it is said her after turret is 
 damaged. She withdraws and is followed by the rest of the squadron. 
 The Spanish keep on firing with almost as much vigor as ever. It is now 
 7:45 o'clock, and the fight has lasted two and a half 
 A MOMENT hours. During all this time there has been incessant 
 THE AMERICANS. nrin g an d + ne whole sky is hazy with smoke. The tre- 
 mendous resistance and striking courage of the Span- 
 ish is a revelation. A feeling of profound gloom conies over us as the 
 American fleet withdraws for consultation. How much damage has 
 been done is yet unknown and whether their decks are swimming in 
 blood and their cabins choked with the wounded and dead and their 
 guns battered are things that cannot be determined until the com- 
 manders return from the conference 1 . 
 
 Then there comes a long wait. At last, after feverish anxiety, the 
 marvelous news comes that not a single life has been lost and not a 
 single man is seriously hurt. Not a single boat is badly injured and 
 hardly a scrap of rigging is cut through. 
 
 At. 10:45 o'clock, after a conference of the commanding officers, it 
 is decided to attack again. The object in withdrawing, it transpires,
 
 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 71 
 
 was to allow the smoke to clear away and to enable the Admiral to 
 determine what damage had been done to the fleet. When the astound- 
 ing report came that there were no lives lost and no vessels damaged 
 the enthusiasm on the different ships was wonderful, and ringing 
 cheers rang throughout the fleet. 
 
 The Baltimore now headed for Cavite, rushing on at full speed, and 
 did not stop until almost in the shadow of the forts. Then she began 
 to fire with her big guns, mowing masts away and tearing holes in 
 everything in sight. The Olympia followed and joined in the bombard- 
 ment. The little Petrel came close behind, then the Concord, and 
 last the Raleigh and Boston. The firing was incessant. The 
 Spaniards answered vigorously and the dull, muffled thun- 
 der of the cannon came with the regularity of drum beats. 
 The naval station was full of burning vessels. The Spanish flag still 
 floated from the fort, but the Spanish firing at noon had nearly ceased. 
 The Reina Cristina was red with flames and there was an explosion on 
 her that must have been caused by the fire reaching one of her ammuni- 
 tion magazines, leaving her almost a complete wreck. 
 
 At 12:35 the Americans ceased firing, and for fifteen minutes the 
 bay was almost, silent. It was believed that the battle was over, 
 although one Spanish flag was still flying above a small fortification. 
 The Baltimore, which had done such valiant work during the last action, 
 spread forth the largest flag in the service. 
 
 Orders were now sent out to enter the small bay back of the arsenal 
 in Cavite and finish the work. The little Petrel, whose gallant conduct 
 in the face of all those big guns that blazed away at 
 her during the long hours of flying havoc, was so nota- GAL ^ A> " T NORK 
 
 OF 1 HE 
 
 ble, steamed bravely on towards the very heart of the PETREL. 
 Spanish stronghold, occasionally spitting forth a shell 
 as she went. At 12:45 it was signaled from shore that the Spanish had 
 surrendered. Then there was great cheering on the victorious ships. 
 The rigging was manned, banners fluttered, and every man's face 
 showed the joy and exultation that he felt. 
 
 During the night of May 1, after the battle, the southern shores at 
 and around Cavite are bright with the flames of burning ships. The 
 Keina Cristina and Castilla are mere skeletons now, with flames tearing
 
 72 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 
 
 through every part of them and making their bones show black against 
 the white heat. There are constant explosions, either from the maga- 
 zines of ships or mines or ammunition stores in the naval station. Back 
 in the hills big columns of smoke are lazily lifting to the sky. Some of 
 the explosions at Cavite are fearful. Flames leap hundreds of feet into 
 the air and tremendous volumes of smoke rise in gigantic white billows. 
 To the north and almost in every direction the curling smoke on the 
 hillsides marks where the insurgents are applying the torch to complete 
 what the Americans have left undone. 
 
 In Manila there is the sound of cathedral bells. It is reported that 
 the Spanish have all withdrawn into the walled portion of the town 
 and that the insurgents are coming in to loot the houses and kill the 
 defenseless. 
 
 At 8 o'clock the McCulloch is signaled to approach within a few 
 hundred feet of the city and guard the entrance to Pasig river. It 
 is supposed that there are still one or two small river gunboats in the 
 river, and the mission of the McCulloch is to intercept and destroy any 
 that may attempt to slip out in the night. She advances and anchors 
 directly opposite the Mole batter}-, where the big ten-inch Krupp guus 
 are planted. The Esmeralda, which is anchored a few yards from the 
 McCulloch, promptly lifts anchor and quits the vicinity. Almost im- 
 mediately after the McCulloch's anchor is dropped two faint lights are 
 reported as coming down the Pasig river. Guns are immediately 
 manned and general quarters called. There is a time of almost breath- 
 less waiting, but as nothing hostile appears the tense excitement re- 
 laxes. General quarters is called later on in the night, but this is also 
 in response to a false alarm. 
 
 The next morning the McCulloch raised anchor at the mouth of the 
 Pasig river, and in response to a signal from the flagship returns and 
 joins the squadron. At about 7 o'clock the Petrel, which has been at 
 Cavite completing the destruction of half-destroyed ships, returns with 
 six captured launches and small boats. She steams by proudly, and as 
 she comes abreast the Olympia and McCulloch she is greeted with rous- 
 ing cheers from those ships. 
 
 Smoke is now seen rising from the town of Maniln, and it is thought 
 that either the Spaniards are destroying their supplies or else the rebels
 
 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 73 
 
 have begun their burning and pillaging. Sinoke is also curling from 
 many points in the outskirts of the city, and it may be necessary for 
 the fleet to land marines to protect the Spanish and foreign residents. 
 No answer has yet come from the captain-general in response to the 
 message sent him yesterday by Admiral Dewey. 
 
 At 11:40 in the morning a small tug flying the Spanish flag aft and 
 a flag of truce at her bow comes up to the flagship. It is not known 
 what is its mission. 
 
 A little while after noon the Baltimore and Kaleigh, the latter 
 having the tug in tow, steams off toward Corregidor, seventeen miles 
 away. The McCulloch is now sent over to Cavite with instructions to 
 enter the harbor at Canacoa bay. She takes a position 
 in the center of this little bay, where the bigger ships Aa M)XG THE 
 of the Spanish did most of their fighting. The Reina SI>^NISH VESSELS. 
 Cristina lies 200 yards to the right of us, the Castella 
 the same distance behind us, and the Don Antonio de Ulloa 150 yards 
 to our left. Onl} r the masts and battered funnels and parts of shattered 
 decks are above water, and over on the shore there are two smaller sail- 
 ing boats toppled over in the shallow water. A single Spanish flag is 
 still flying over a building at the head of the bay, but there are a num- 
 ber of white flags scattered around over the various government build- 
 ings, and several Red Cross ensigns wave above the hospitals and 
 churches. There is scarcely any sign of life on shore and the day has 
 a Sunday quiet that is impressive after the thrilling events of yesterday. 
 A few figures can occasionally be seen, and the sight of some nuns con- 
 ducting a funeral ceremony show that the shells of the Americans were 
 deadly and desolating. Men can be observed carrying bundles and 
 packages as if preparing to leave the place. There is a good deal of 
 curiosity as to why that one persistent Spanish flag still flies over the 
 town. Later a gig is sent from one of the squadron and soon after the 
 flag is hauled down. The big guns of the battery are visible on our right 
 hand a few hundred feet away. The walls of the fort on the left hand 
 show marks of shells and are now still and deserted. 
 
 During the afternoon I took a dinghy and went among the wrecks 
 in this bay. The Castilla shows only one upright funnel and two burnt 
 and charred masts. The other funnel is leaning over against the stand-
 
 74 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 
 
 ing one, and only a few inches of shattered and crushed rail shows 
 above the water line. The insides are burned completely out, only the 
 blackened iron work being visible. Eight six-inch guns stare out a little 
 above the w r ater and the breech ends are ruined by the flames. Other 
 small millimeter guns and six-pounders are standing on the bow and 
 after deck. The hull is still burning in one or two places where little 
 patches of woodwork remain, and blue hazes of smoke lift lazily from 
 the smoldering embers. 
 
 The Eeina Cristina, the proudest ship of them all, and the flagship 
 of Rear-Admiral Patricio Montojo y Pasaron, as well as the theater of 
 some of the most daring fighting, lies a little farther away, as com- 
 pletely demolished as the Castilla. Her funnels are perforated and her 
 rigging is cut and big gaping holes in the shattered steel framework 
 show how accurate was the aim of the Americans. Some large eight- 
 inch guns show above water and a number of small guns still stand fore 
 and aft. A little fire is burning on her and the body of a Spaniard is 
 lying half-way out of a gun barbette, his legs shot off and big slashing 
 wounds in his hip. lie is absolutely nude except for a narrow belt, and 
 has apparently been untouched by fire. It was in this ship that so many 
 died, and the hull must be choked with those who fell before the sweep- 
 ing gale of steel poured into her. In a day or two the bodies will be 
 coming to the surface. A live chicken is perched on a stanchion at the 
 bow. How in the world it lived through the fire is a wonder, for the 
 vessel is absolutely gutted. 
 
 The Antonio de Ulloa is almost entirely under water, but even then 
 she has more unsubmerged parts than either of the other two. Her 
 forecastle is above water, as well as her chartroom. The three masts 
 still stand and are splintered by shells. Her rigging is shattered in 
 many places and two small guns are visible on the forward deck. Boat- 
 loads of officers and seamen have been to her all afternoon searching for 
 souvenirs of the battle. Scraps of signal and boat 
 
 DESTRUCTION ^^^ ( .] iarts? books, small anchors and dozens of little 
 
 OB 1 
 
 FINE CRUISERS. 1<e ^ t ' s have been eagerly seized. Sailors have been div- 
 ing down and bringing up all sorts of trophies, from 
 (locks and compasses to chairs and capstan heads. A piece of a guitar 
 was found. Only the fretted finger stock remained, and it was evidently
 
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 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 11 
 
 smashed by its devoted owner to prevent the invading vandals of 
 America from capturing it. The Ulloa was a wooden ship and after 
 the enemy found her range she must have been smashed to pieces in a 
 very short time. 
 
 While I was there a fearful explosion occurred on shore 200 yards 
 away. At first it was thought fire had been opened again, but subse- 
 quently it was learned that a boat's crew from the Olympia had landed 
 and were blowing up the big guns at the battery. 
 
 The scene of complete desolation in this bay was thought to be 
 the very worst, but a trip to the waters beyond the arsenal revealed 
 even greater havoc and ruin. This is Bakor bay and is the principal 
 anchorage of the naval station. There are seven warships, ranging 
 from 800 tons up to 1,500 tons, scattered about in this cove, all sunken, 
 and most of them charred by flames. One ship, the transport Manila, 
 still floats and is apparently uninjured. A number of live cattle are 
 on board, as well as some sheep and other provisions for the Spanish. 
 The name plates of the wrecks are either gone or submerged, but it 
 is known that among them is the cruiser Don Juan of Austria, the pro- 
 tected cruisers Isla de Luzon and Isla de Cuba, the gunboats Marques 
 del Ducro, Gen. Lezo, El Correo and Velasco. 
 
 These ships were among the finest of their class in the Spanish navy 
 and enough remains to indicate what excellently armed and carefully 
 cared for vessels they were. A number of six-inch guns are still above 
 water and seem to be in good condition. Some of these have lost their 
 breech plugs and it is probable the Spaniards threw them overboard 
 before abandoning the vessels. All show signs of the shelling, but it is 
 doubtful whether the cannonading sunk them. It is thought they were 
 fired when the Spanish abandoned them, and it is known that the 
 Petrel set fire to some of them after the battle. 
 
 From the day of the battle of Manila bay the work of the blockade 
 was sometimes dull and sometimes exciting, but the 
 duties were just as important under both conditions. ^Y TJ 
 
 Affairs were in considerable doubt in many details. THE 
 
 Insurgents and Spaniards were busity at war on the 
 
 shores surrounding the bay. It was unknown how soon the troopships 
 
 from San Francisco, with American soldiers aboard, would reach the
 
 78 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 
 
 place. Every vessel that came within sight of the harbor entrance had 
 to be intercepted and questioned. Men-of-war of the English, Ger- 
 man, French and Japanese navy gradually gathered in the bay until 
 there was a formidable fleet lying in the shadow of the American guns. 
 Target practice kept up in order that the men on shipboard should not 
 be too restless, and should not lose familiarity with the guns with which 
 they had done such notable execution. Conditions were strained, but 
 they had to be faced, and those weeks of waiting before the army came 
 were almost as trying on commanders and men alike as .the great battle 
 itself. 
 
 The insurgents were by no means idle during this period. In years 
 to come, if the fond hopes of the Filipinos are to be realized, the 12th 
 of June will be an occasion of rejoicing and jubilee. It will be to the 
 natives of these islands what the Fourth of July is to the Americans. 
 The declaration of independence will be read to the school children, 
 every house will be gay with Filipino flags, and the sounds of parading 
 bands will share the honors with the noisy firecracker and the soaring 
 skyrocket. It will become such an institution that the daily papers 
 will speak familiarly of it as the "Glorious Twelfth," and on the morning 
 of the 13th there will be a great deal of fire news. 
 
 On the afternoon of June 12 the formation of a provisional 
 government was officially proclaimed in Old Cavite. A large 
 crowd of natives, numbering between five and six thousand, were gath- 
 ered in the wide streets of the village, and the principal avenue was gay 
 with triumphal arches. Hastily extemporized flags of the country 
 were liberally displayed from the windows and on the housetops, and 
 a band of music enlivened the eventful occasion. Delegates from the 
 eight provinces of Luzon island were present to represent the Filipinos 
 of those districts. Nearly a thousand insurgent soldiers were drawn 
 up in long columns near the old church and the presence of these added 
 a touch of military impressiveness to the scene. A stand had been 
 erected from which the different addresses were made, and prominent 
 leaders of the movement were on hand to add the necessary oratory to 
 the occasion. 
 
 A declaration of independence was read and General Emilio Agui- 
 naldo was elected president of the new republic. Nearly all the official
 
 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 79 
 
 addresses were made in two languages, Spanish and Tagala, and there 
 was a generous sprinkling of applause during their delivery. The gen- 
 eral was not present at the time. It was not considered wise to expose 
 him to the possibility of being assassinated, and so 
 
 Jie remained in his headquarters in Cavite. Colonel 
 
 . . GOYLRMttENT 
 
 Johnson, an American army officer, who is now in ORGANIZED. 
 
 command of the ordnance of the insurgent forces, was 
 greeted with the greatest enthusiasm. He w r as borne aloft on the shoul- 
 ders of demonstrative natives, and on account of his nationality was 
 taken to symbolize the co-operation of the United States in the new 
 movement of independence. Marian Ito Trias was elected vice-presi- 
 dent, and Balinero Aguinaldo w r as proclaimed minister of finance. Dan- 
 iel Pirondo was made minister of war. During the forenoon General 
 Aguinaldo held a reception at Cavite to the delegates of the provinces 
 and to prominent officers of his army. 
 
 The insurgent operations were still being carried on with the 
 greatest vigor and with unvaried success. San Fernando and Maca- 
 baebe, in Pampangas province, was captured after a long and obstinate 
 resistance. General Ricardo Monet, one of the best fighters on the 
 Spanish side, w r as killed. Forty officers and soldiers of his force were 
 also killed and between 1,000 and 1,200 captured. The insurgent loss 
 was less and was not given out at Aguinaldo's headquarters. The wife 
 and children of General Monet were taken prisoners. This decisive 
 fight resulted in the absolute overthrow of all the Spanish force in that 
 province and its complete acquisition by the insurgents. 
 
 The subjection of the Spaniards in Pampangas province took 
 nearly three weeks of hard fighting. The insurgents under command 
 of Maximo Hisson defeated the Spanish forces at Angeles and Bacolor 
 and finally surrounded them in the two towns of San Fernando and 
 Macabaebe. The latter place was assailed so vigorously that the force 
 attacked attempted to join the other force in San Fernando. The de- 
 cisive battle took place on Wednesday, the 15th, on the road between 
 these two places. 
 
 The wife and five children of Governor-General Augusti were cap- 
 tured near Macabaebe. 
 
 The insurgents felt that under the circumstances, there would be
 
 80 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 
 
 a cessation of Spanish cruelty to insurgent prisoners of war. Governor- 
 General Augusti would hesitate to inflame the Filipinos by unneces- 
 sary cruelty so long as the fate of his wife and children rests with the 
 insurgent leader. General Aguinaldo said that the kindest treatment 
 would be accorded these prisoners, and justified himself in detaining 
 them by the thought that the Spaniards will be more merciful to Fili- 
 pinos prisoners hereafter. He had sent word on more than one occa- 
 sion that he would kill a Spanish officer for every insurgent prisoner 
 executed by the Spaniards in Manila, but this threat has not been 
 effective. Sympathizers with the rebels have been executed in Manila 
 with hardly any provocation. The uncle of Mr. Arivelo, one of Agui- 
 naldo's staff, was shot in Tondo, and as a consequence the feeling 
 against the Spaniards was very bitter at the insurgent headquarters. 
 
 On the evening of June 20 the insurgents succeeded in taking some 
 trenches near Malate. This position was assailed for several days, and 
 as it commands the road and approaches to the fort w^as of great im- 
 portance. It was given out that all the insurgent force would attack 
 Tondo, a suburb of Manila, on the same day and would be met by 4,000 
 Spanish troops. This engagement was not fought. 
 
 General Aguinaldo removed his headquarters from where he first 
 established them to larger and more commodious ones. The building 
 he now occupies was formerly the official residence of the governor of 
 Cavite. It is a beautiful place, with an immense courtyard. When the 
 governor occupied it Aguinaldo was engaged in a bushwhacking war- 
 fare against Spain out in the country back of Cavite. The conditions 
 were now reversed. The governor, Brigadier-General Penas, was a 
 prisoner only a few doors from where the insurgent headquarters are, 
 while the former rebel leader sits in the governor's palace, surrounded 
 by his staff and followers. 
 
 The governor-general at Manila refused to treat with Aguinaldo in 
 any way or acknowledge his leadership of the insurgents. An instance 
 of his pride and haughtiness was shown. He wished 
 to have the wounded Spaniards in Cavite removed 
 
 SPANISH. to M aQ il a > but he did not wish to be put in the 
 position of asking a favor of Aguinaldo. So he got 
 the British consul at Manila to make the request in his own
 
 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 81 
 
 name, and sent three surgeons under a Red Cross flag and with this 
 order to Cavite. 
 
 Two steam launches towing two oarges came from Manila to 
 Cavite. The Spanish doctors in charge of the mission were Don Juan 
 Domingues Borrajo, Don Jose Balderrama and Don Luis Ledesma. 
 Their crews were Spanish, and natives from Manila. When the sur- 
 geons presented the letter from the British consul, Aguinaldo re- 
 fused to consider it. He felt that such a request should come from some 
 one in Spanish authority, and realized the motives that actuated the 
 governor in refusing to give the mission an official character. He finally 
 agreed, however, after a long discussion, to send the wounded Spaniards 
 to Manila. One hundred and eighty-five of these were placed on the 
 barges and preparations were made to return to Manila. It was then 
 discovered that all the Spanish and native crews had deserted, prob- 
 ably with the intention of joining the insurgents. They had had enough 
 of Manila, for the suffering in the city had become extreme since the 
 rebels had surrounded the city. The Spanish doctors were obliged to 
 return to Manila without their crews. It was further noticed that only 
 the most desperately wounded were allowed to be taken, and those 
 who gave promise of an early recovery were held in Cavite. 
 
 On June 9 the governor of Batangas was captured. At the same 
 time Colonel Blasques and one commandant, 39 officers and 500 sol- 
 diers laid down their arms to the Filipinos. This surrender is remarka- 
 ble from the fact that only 240 insurgents, under Colonel Eluterio 
 Malasigan, effected the capture. Three hundred and thirty-nine of these 
 prisoners were transported to Cavite on the rebel steamers Bulusan 
 and Faleero. 
 
 In Pampanga there was a good deal of fighting. The Spanish force 
 of 300 men w r as driven from Angeles and Bacolor, and retreated to 
 San Fernando and Macabaebe. When they left Bacolor they burned 
 the town. At Angeles the Spaniards placed women and small children 
 in front of their ranks to prevent the insurgents firing on them, but 
 they were eventually routed. In all the operations in this district there 
 have been only 200 insurgents engaged. The commander of this force 
 is Colonel Maximo Hisson. 
 
 According to General Aguinaldo's statement on June 14 there were
 
 82 DEWEY AND THE BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 
 
 6,500 insurgents under his command. Of this number 6,000 were armed 
 with rifles and 500 with machetes. Nearly 4,000 were in the neighbor- 
 hood of Manila, and all the fighting was converging to that point. The 
 city was practically surrounded, and very little, if any, food was get- 
 ting through the ranks and reaching the people in Manila. The insur- 
 gents' force around Manila and the approaches to it numbered nearly 
 4,000 men. 
 
 Such were the conditions which led up to the time of the arrival of 
 the army of occupation by the troopships which sailed from San Fran- 
 cisco, bringing the men who were to do the land fighting, and take the 
 city of Manila.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 GENERAL MERRITT AND THE AMERICAN 
 OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 
 
 Appointment of a Commander for the Expedition to the Philippines Conditions in 
 the Blockading Fleet While Awaiting the Army Germany Sends a Strong 
 Squadron Arrival of the Transports American Soldiers in Cavite Spanish 
 and Americans in Night Battle Near Malate Demand for the Surrender of 
 Manila Reply of the Captain-General Beginning the Battle Brave Deeds of 
 Our Soldiers Surrender of the City The Insurgents General Merritt's Report. 
 
 WITH little delay after the receipt of news of Admiral Dewey's 
 victory, Major-General Wesley Merritt was appointed to the 
 command of the military expedition to the Philippines. San 
 Francisco was chosen as the place of rendezvous and departure for the 
 forces to be sent across the Pacific ocean. General Merritt desired that 
 as large a part as possible of his force be made up of regulars, as it 
 was known that the Spanish soldiers in the Philippines were the pick 
 of Ihe Castilian army. Nevertheless, the need of picked men of our 
 regiments for the Cuban campaign was equally imperative, so in the 
 end, volunteers predominated among those who were sent to San Fran- 
 cisco. 
 
 In the city by the Golden Gate thousands of men gathered during 
 May and June, encamping in the beautiful military reservation known 
 as the Presidio, where they were drilled energetically and instructed 
 in all details possible of the service that was to be required of them. 
 Most of the volunteers assigned to the Philippine expedition were those 
 in the regiments from the western states, in order to shorten the rail- 
 way journey necessary to bring them to the port of embarkation. The 
 Pacific ports were ransacked b} 7 quartermasters-general in order to 
 find transports for the long voyage; but at last all preparations w r ere 
 complete and the expeditions began to sail to the support of Dewey. 
 
 83
 
 84 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 
 
 While waiting for the army to reach Manila, two topics absorbed 
 
 all the curiosity and gossip on the American ships. One was the arrival 
 
 of the Charleston and the troopships from San Francisco, the other 
 
 the gradual concentration of a powerful German fleet in Manila bay. 
 
 Seven German warships out of eight that Germany 
 
 LIFE ON k . tu far east were there, with Vice-Admiral Von 
 THE BLOCKADE . 
 
 STATION. Diedenchs, who commands the Asiatic squadron. The 
 
 significance of this demonstration created a good deal 
 of speculation and concern. 
 
 When it is considered that Germany, Austria and Portugal delayed 
 their expressions of neutrality to an alarming limit, the massing of 
 German ships at this critical time was regarded as being significant. 
 According to an unwritten law of international courtesy it is unusual 
 for more than two or three ships of a foreign power to gather in a block- 
 aded port. The German interests in Manila are not so extensive as to 
 require a great force to protect them. It was equally improbable that 
 the Germans were there merely to witness the last act of Admiral 
 Dewey's brilliant tragedy. The theory of curiosity could hardly justify 
 them in leaving Kiou-Chou at a time when the Russian and English 
 relations are so strained. 
 
 Vice- Admiral Von Diederichs said Germany was making a demon- 
 stration here in Manila bay for the purpose of benefiting the trade 
 relations between Manila and his own country. The exact connection 
 between cause and effect in this instance is somewhat obscure. 
 
 The Spaniards in Manila, according to the Diario de Manila, looked 
 on the Germans as being their friends and sympathizers, and the advent 
 of Germany's fleet as encouragement to Spanish interests. The Ger- 
 mans saluted the Spanish flag on several occasions after Admiral 
 Dewey established his blockade. This was either an evidence of friend- 
 liness to Spain or an exhibition of great indifference to propriety, for 
 all foreign ships in a blockaded port are allowed to enter and remain 
 through the sufferance and courtesy of the admiral commanding the 
 blockading fleet. Neither the English nor French saluted the Spanish 
 flag, and only in one instance did the Japanese salute it. 
 
 The story of a day in a blockaded port is an interesting one. Some- 
 times it may become dull and monotonous, but there always exists the
 
 STREET IN NATIVE QUARTER OF ILOILO 
 
 The group of cocoanut palms at the right, with the peculiar ox-carts beneath them, and of native 
 children on the left, standing by the pole which props their house, are striking features of this Philip- 
 pine landscape. 
 
 IN THE SUBURBS OF ILOILO, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 
 
 The winding village street here pictured is characteristic of many in the East Indian Islands. The gate- 
 way to the cemetery appears just beyond a house on the left.
 
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 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 89 
 
 possibility that something exciting may suddenly happen. In the block- 
 ade before Manila there were a number of features which made it unique 
 and alone. The warfare being waged between the Spaniards and insur- 
 gents on the shores around the bay gave constant touches of excitement, 
 while the frequent squalls incident to the commencement of the south- 
 west monsoon made life on the fleet full of interesting danger. Nearly 
 every day the sound of skirmishing came from the fringe of trees that 
 lined the shores, and nearly every day came those fearful torrents of 
 rain that mark the beginning of the rainy season. The Philippines are 
 the birthplaces of the dreadful typhoons which have made navigation 
 on the China sea so full of danger to mariners. Manila is the home of 
 the earthquake and the abiding place of the hot weather. Added to 
 these natural perils was the constant menace of torpedoes which over- 
 hung the blockaders. There were two torpedo boats in the Pasig river, 
 which rendered every precaution necessary on the American ships, and 
 made every night fraught with the possibility of an attack from one of 
 them. 
 
 It was two months after Dewey's victory that the first expedition 
 of General Merritt's army of occupation reached Manila. These troop- 
 ships under General Thomas Anderson came on June 
 30; the next, under General Frank V. Greene, arrived ARR j^t L F 
 
 THE 
 
 July 17; General Merritt himself came on July 25, TROOPSHIPS. 
 and when General McArthur's quota arrived on July 
 30, the force was considered complete, although it has been re-enforced 
 often since then. 
 
 Said John T. McCutcheon, who had been with Dewey from the be- 
 ginning, after the first troops arrived and disembarked from the trans- 
 ports after their long voyage across the Pacific: 
 
 "Cavite is one of the busiest places in the world just, now. Twenty- 
 five hundred soldiers have been dropped down in the town, and there 
 has been a hard struggle to find quarters and establish order out of 
 chaos. Boatload after boatload landed, w T ith big boxes of supplies and 
 cases of ammunition, and men have dumped them down near the land- 
 ing. The soldiers have been assigned to different quarters in the old 
 Spanish barracks, the officers have picked out choice headquarters and 
 things are rapidly getting settled down to a business basis. But com-
 
 90 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 
 
 pared with those other days, when a handful of marines represented the 
 American force of arms in Cavite, the present situation is tremendously 
 lively. On every hand are sentries marching back and forth, little 
 squads of men are cleaning up and distributing boxes of provisions, the 
 band is playing in the little plaza near the commandant's residence, 
 target practice has been inaugurated and there is getting to be some 
 system and regularity about meal hours. 
 
 "The insurgents crowd around and watch wonderingly the deliber- 
 ate preparations for active service that are going on in Cavite and mar- 
 vel at the size of most of the California and Oregon giants. The Ameri- 
 cans out here are truly a ferocious-looking lot, with their unshaven 
 faces, rough brown service uniforms and wild-west hats. One would im- 
 agine one's self to be in a western mining camp. Down 
 
 RENEWED near tne landing wharf the soldiers are cutting\ip beef 
 AT CAVITE. ^ or distribution. Crow r ds of them are lounging around, 
 smoking or trying marvelous Spanish on the natives. 
 Some of them are reading, and in nearly every window of the barracks 
 can be seen men writing letters to go by to-morrow's steamer. A little 
 farther along is the commandant's palace, where General Merritt will 
 probably be quartered. Across the way is the boat slip and repair shop, 
 where there is now a force of men engaged in making waterspouts to 
 catch rainwater for drinking purposes. Down a long line of trees in front 
 of the commandant's palace are the low-typical Spanish quarters, used 
 original!}' by the officers of the guard, but now occupied by Colonel 
 Smith, Colonel Duboce and other officers. Just in front of these quar- 
 ters is the little plaza, with the statue of El Cano in the center. 
 
 "There are beautiful trees scattered about in the plaza, and through 
 the branches can be seen the wreck-specked waters of Bakor bay. In 
 this plaza the United States regulars' regimental band plays in the 
 afternoon to delighted audiences of scantily clad natives and big, husky 
 soldier boys. Over at the corner of the plaza is General Anderson's 
 headquarters, formerly the Ayndante mayor's home and office. It is, 
 like all the government buildings in Cavite, very beautiful and cool- 
 looking. Immense shade trees surround it, and the spreading leaves 
 of palm trees give it an absolutely tropical appearance. Further down 
 the avenue of trees is the gate separating the officers' quarters from
 
 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 91 
 
 the 'Enfermeria,' or hospital, and infantry quarters. Only a few men 
 are now on the sick list. In the infantry quarters there are several 
 hundred men established, and little detachments are almost constantly 
 marching back and forth from drills or camp work. 
 
 "As there are usually fifty or a hundred men with liberty leave, 
 nearly every shop in Cavite has one or two big, rough-looking soldiers 
 sitting in it, learning Spanish by association, and flirting violently with 
 scantily clad, brown-eyed Filipino girls. 
 
 "Out in the parade ground there are drills twice a day, between 
 7 and 8 in the morning and 5 and 6 in the evening, weather permitting. 
 All drilling and heavy work is suspended in the middle o the day on 
 account of the heat. However, the weather has not been disagreeably 
 warm during the last two weeks, but the exertion of carrying heavy 
 Springfields and drill accouterments would be very trying on men who 
 are not equipped with light tropical uniforms. A hundred or more tents 
 [have been put up on one side of the parade ground to dry and clear 
 out the must. Everything becomes musty and mildewed here in a day 
 or two, and clothes must be constantly aired to prevent their spoiling." 
 
 The first clash of arms between Spanish and American land forces 
 in the Philippines resulted in the killing of ten Americans and the 
 wounding of forty-three. The Spanish loss was not known. The con- 
 flict occurred late in the night of July 31. It was the result of a reputed 
 effort on the part of the enemy to flank the American 
 trenches near Malate, an effort which failed, if, in- 
 deed, it was ever intended. The fight was a vicious 
 one, but the men who were having their baptism of 
 fire never flinched. They showed the stuff of which they were made, 
 as truly as they did two weeks later when Manila was the objective 
 point. 
 
 When finally the men of the three fleets of troopships were disem- 
 barked and placed in position, General Merritt calculated that the time 
 had come for final action. He had about 8,500 men in position to attack 
 the city of Manila. He and Admiral Dewey united in a joint letter to 
 the Spanish commander-in-chief, under date of August 7, notifying him 
 that operations might begin at any time after forty-eight hours, or
 
 92 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 
 
 sooner if made necessary by an attack on his part, and that all non- 
 combatants might therefore be removed from the city. 
 
 In replying, Governor-General Jaudenes said in part: "As your 
 notice is sent for the purpose of providing for the safety of non-com- 
 batants, I give thanks to your excellencies for the humane sentiment 
 you have shown, and state that, finding myself surrounded by insur- 
 rectionary forces, I am without places of refuge for the increased num- 
 ber of wounded, sick, w r omen and children who are now lodged within 
 the walls." 
 
 Two days later a second letter was sent to the captain-general by 
 Admiral Dewey and General Merritt, reading as follows: 
 
 "The Governor-General and Captain-General of the Philippines. 
 
 "Sir: The inevitable suffering in store for the wounded, sick, 
 
 women and children, in the event that it becomes our duty to reduce the 
 
 A \rpmmvtt defenses of the walled town in which they are gath- 
 
 AM.LKlLA.i>o % .... 
 
 DEMAND ered, will, we feel assured, appeal successfully to the 
 
 CTTWU^VTVFI? sympathies of a general capable of making the deter- 
 
 M Klih.MM.K. > t / . . 
 
 mined and prolonged resistance which j r our excel- 
 lency has exhibited after the loss of your naval forces and without hope 
 of succor. 
 
 "We therefore submit, without prejudice to the high sentiments of 
 honor and duty which your excellency entertains, that, surrounded on 
 every side as you are by a constantly increasing force, with a powerful 
 fleet in your front and deprived of all prospect of reinforcement and 
 assistance, a most useless sacrifice of life would result in the event of 
 an attack, and therefore even 7 consideration of humanity makes it 
 imperative that you should not subject your city to the horrors of a 
 bombardment. Accordingly, we demand the surrender of the city of 
 Manila and the Spanish forces under your command." 
 
 As the time approached marking the expiration of the forty-eight- 
 hour respite granted to Manila by General Merritt and Admiral Dewey, 
 before the attack the enthusiasm on the ships was tremendous. Men on 
 the sick list begged to be taken off and those who were unfit for heavy 
 work asked to be assigned to lighter duties. Men who would have been 
 hopelessly ill if the ship was to be coaled now developed wonderful 
 vitality and convalescence. A few thoughtful ones got their farewell 
 letters written, but the great majority prepared for a picnic. 
 
 It was announced that the navy and army would get under head- 
 way Wednesday noon, August 10. General order's were issued and the
 
 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 93 
 
 l 
 
 refuge ships and foreign war vessels anchored off the city began to 
 move away to positions of safety. Ten or twelve refuge ships thronged 
 with women and children from Manila were taken down the bay and 
 anchored in Mariveles bay, safe alike from vagrant shells and scenes of 
 flying havoc. The foreign war vessels moved out of range. The Ger- 
 man admiral sent word asking Admiral Dewey where he should anchor, 
 and was told that he might anchor any place he chose so long as he 
 was not in range. Then came a curious thing. The English ships 
 the Immortalite, Iphigenia, Pygmy and Plover and the Japanese ship, 
 the Naniwa, steamed over and joined the American ships at their 
 anchorage off Cavite. The German and French warships withdrew in 
 an opposite direction until they were well out of range. There could 
 hardly have been a more eloquent exposition of the sympathetic lean- 
 ings of the different nations, and the English, American and Japanese 
 alliance which has been so frequently mentioned of late seemed a 
 reality here in Manila bay. 
 
 At 9 o'clock on the morning of August 10 all was suppressed excite- 
 ment. The ships were stripped and only the work of taking down the 
 awnings remained. This was soon done and the steam in the engines 
 was strengthened for the work of turning the heavy screws. 
 
 Shortly before 10 o'clock General Merritt came aboard and asked 
 for a delay, stating that the army was not ready. The disappointment 
 that this caused was extreme and the line that is said 
 to be drawn between the navy and army was never ARM * SLOWER 
 
 rtrir A TW" 
 
 before so sharp and vivid. The last dispatches had THE ^AVY. 
 indicated that peace was so imminent that already 
 every ship that came into the bay was apprehensively regarded as a 
 probable bearer of the unwelcome news that hostilities should cease. 
 To those who had lived on shipboard for months just in sight of the 
 city lights the thought of being denied the pleasure of riding up and 
 down the Lunetta was something very dire. 
 
 The fleet was signaled to bank fires and the commanders and cap- 
 tains were told that twenty-four hours' notice would be given before a 
 general movement would be made. The Baltimore then began coaling 
 from the Cyrus, and the situation seemed to have relaxed from the 
 critical to the commonplace routine of the old blockading days.
 
 94 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 
 
 * 
 On Friday, August 12, orders were sent out for all ships to pre- 
 
 pare to get under way at 9 o'clock the following morning. The army 
 was ready. Saturday, August 13, was the day of the taMng of Manila. 
 
 The army was divided into two brigades. General Greene had the 
 2d brigade and his men were strung along on the extreme right extend- 
 ing to the beach. As his advance fighting line he had the Utah light 
 artillery, with Captains 'Grant and Young; the 1st Colorado, under 
 Colonel Irving Hale, and a battalion of the 3d artillery. The last- 
 named, although in the firing line, was not under fire. Back of the 
 fir-ing line, in immediate support, was the 2d battalion of the 1st Cal- 
 ifornia, under Colonel Smith and Major Sime. As reserves there were 
 the 18th United States infantry, 1st California, 1st Nebraska, 10th 
 Pennsylvania and a battalion of United States engineers. 
 
 The 1st brigade, under General MacArthur, further inland, was 
 distributed in a similar manner as firing line and reserves. The Astor 
 batterj', 13th Minnesota and 23d infantry were in front, with one 
 battalion of the 14th infantry, two battalions of the 1st North Dakota, 
 two battalions of the 1st Idaho and one battalion of the 1st Wyoming as 
 reserves and support. 
 
 The Spanish line of defenses consisted of a continuous intrench- 
 ment, broken by three strongholds the fort at Malate, blockhouse 14 
 and the fortified English cemetery. General Greene's brigade was 
 to attack and take the first and strongest, while General MacArthur's 
 brigade was to attack the blockhouse and cemetery. The entire field 
 of operations hardly covered more than a square mile, but the Amer- 
 icans had a fearful country to fight in. Barb-wire 
 
 I?FFFYSES fences, bamboo jungles, paddy fields, swamps, streams 
 
 WELL PLANNED. an( ^ sharpened pickets had to be passed before reach- 
 ing the Spanish line. The taking of the trenches and 
 fort at Malate by tin* 1st Colorado was the most brilliant and 
 spectacular act of the day, but a savage ambuscade over at Singalon, 
 near blockhouse 14, was the most deadly, for four men were killed 
 in the Astor battery and 13th Minnesota and 23d infantry, while nearly 
 thirty were wounded. Tlad it not born for the timely advance of the 
 13th Minnesota and 23d artillery the Astor battery would have been 
 almost wiped out.
 
 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 95 
 
 The most striking features about the character of the land fight 
 of August 13 were the advance of the Americans through the almost 
 impassable country, the routing of the Spaniards from the trenches and 
 the driving of the latter back into the city in face of a house-to-house 
 potshot resistance, and finally the stand taken by the Americans and 
 Spaniards to prevent the insurgents entering the city. There probably 
 was never a case in history before where two opposing forces combined 
 on the overthrow of one to make a common defense against a third. 
 
 Early in the morning the two brigades began the advance from 
 Camp Dewey. Every man carried rations for one day and went in light 
 marching order. The story told by Major Bell of the bureau of in- 
 formation, who acted as one of General Greene's aids during the day, 
 gives a good idea of the operations of the 2d brigade. The men in the 
 camp were up at 5 o'clock, ready for the start. 
 
 General Babcock arrived from the Newport soon after the main 
 body of troops had advanced from the camp, and he and Major Bell 
 followed on horseback, soon passing the troops. Major Bell, sheltered 
 by clumps of bamboo, crept up from the farthest American trench, 
 where the Utah artillery, the 1st Colorado and a battalion of the 3d 
 artillery were waiting the order to attack, along the beach to a position 
 barely 500 yards from the fort at Malate, to make a reconnoissance of 
 the Spanish guns. Two days before he had done the same and had re- 
 ported that one of the Spanish guns had been removed. On this latter 
 reconnoissance it was his object to determine w^here that gun had been 
 placed. 
 
 Orders were then given for four companies of the 1st Colorado 
 to begin an advance. Two companies, C and D, were sent out in front 
 of the trenches, and two others, I and K, were sent along the beach 
 under cover of the fire of companies C and D. As C and D took their 
 places out in a skirmish line in front of the trench, I and K, advanc- 
 ing from the rear of the trenches, proceeded along in the surf at the 
 beach, wading an intervening stream and boldly en- 
 tering the fort. Companies C and D fell in behind; ^tSP. G 
 
 FOR A 
 
 then came the 2d battalion of the 1st California, under gpjjnsH FLAG. 
 
 Colonel Smith arid Major Sime, who were in reserve 
 
 behind the firing line, but who advanced directly behind the Colorado
 
 96 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 
 
 troops. Major Bell was ahead of the Colorado soldiers, bent on reach- 
 ing the fort first to take down the Spanish flag, but, the Spanish open- 
 ing fire from their intrenchments, he was called back to allow the Colo- 
 rados to fire several volleys. This cost him the flag, for Colonel McCoy 
 and Adjutant Brooks, in the van of their troops, reached the Spanish 
 position, dashed over the trenches, followed by a rushing mass of Colo- 
 rado men, plunged into the old fort and took down the Spanish flag and 
 hauled up the American. Just behind the Colorado men came the 
 regimental band, wading the stream and playing their instruments 
 with wonderful persistence and questionable harmony. The band made 
 the 'hit of the day. The Colorado troops then began an advance toward 
 the city, but the 1st California, by not stopping at the fort, had passed 
 them and were carrying everything before them in a rush down through 
 Malate, with the Spaniards retreating in broken order and firing from 
 dooryards and windows and from the protection of houses. A heavy 
 fire met the 1st Colorados after passing the fort and seemed to come 
 from the marshes over to the right of the road. It was in this fire that 
 Charles Phoenix of company I was killed and several others were 
 wounded. 
 
 The four companies of the 1st California proceeded on through the 
 Calle Real in Malate, Colonel Smith dropping guards at every house 
 ftying the English flag, to protect it from the insurgents, who were 
 scrambling along in the wake of the Californians' victorious advance. 
 The insurgents were firing as they came along. It was here that 
 Major Jones of the transportation department and Interpreter Finlay 
 distinguished themselves. The insurgent firing had become hot for 
 even the Americans, and Major Jones took an American flag, planted 
 himself in the middle of the road and with drawn revolver stopped the 
 entire advance of the insurgents. 
 
 Captain O'Connor, with a small guard, advanced to the very city 
 walls in the face of large bodies of Spanish sokFers and posted himself 
 on the Puente Espana, the principal bridge of the city, leading from 
 the business section to the walled city. 
 
 The Californians advanced to tho road leading around the walled 
 city and intercepted the insurgents who were flocking in along the road 
 from Santa Ana. The latter were firing on the retreating Spaniards,
 
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 A FREIGHT TRAIN IN THE PHILIPPINES 
 
 Primitive methods of transportation still prevail in the islands, and there is ample opportunity for 
 
 American development of this industry. 
 
 A HARROW IN THE PHILIPPINES 
 
 An observation of the rude agricultural methods employed in these islands is convincing of the fact that 
 even greater riches await the development of the industry by modern improved methods.
 
 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 99 
 
 and the Calif ornians came in direct line of the tire. The Spaniards 
 were returning the insurgent fire, and the Americans were between 
 the two forces. It was here that Private Dunmore of company B, 1st 
 California, was killed and H. Ammerson wounded. The California 
 men held their fire, and by doing so avoided a general conflict which 
 would have been as disastrous as it would have been useless. The in- 
 surgent advance was stopped. Colonel Smith then advanced to the 
 roads leading from Paco and stopped another troop of insurgents who 
 were attempting to enter the walled city. One pompous insurgent in 
 a gorgeous uniform announced that they were going 
 on, but when Major Bell drew his revolver and threat- 
 ened to kill any one attempting to pass, the insurgent SOME ATTENTION. 
 officer became submissive and polite. The Americans 
 then formed in line and forced the insurgents up the street and into a 
 side .street. They next attempted to get in by another street, but were 
 forestalled. 
 
 General Greene came up under a scattering fire with his staff and 
 met a Spanish official who awaited him at one of the gates of the city. 
 The general entered the city alone with the Spaniards and the arrange- 
 ments for the occupation were made. Over to the north of the city there 
 was hot fighting between the insurgents and the Spaniards, but the 
 latter held them back. The Spaniards in those trenches remained at 
 their guns, resisting the insurgents, until 7 P. M. the following day, 
 and were among the last who gave up their arms. They complained at 
 being compelled to fight after the city had surrendered. 
 
 General MacArtlmr's brigade was having a hot fight over in the 
 Singalon district. The Spanish deserted their trenches at the advance 
 of the Americans, but retreated to dense clumps of bamboos and am- 
 buscaded the Americans as the latter advanced. It was in this ambus- 
 cade that August Thollen of the 23d infantry, Sergeants Cremius and 
 Holmes of the Astor battery and Archie Patterson of the 13th Min- 
 nesota were killed and a great number wounded. The Minnesota men, 
 the Astor battery and the 23d infantry did brilliant work in this sec- 
 tion, and their record in the fight is the most brilliant of the day. 
 
 As MacArthur's brigade in regular order swept the Spaniards out 
 of blockhouse No. 14 and the English cemetery, driving them back, the
 
 100 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 
 
 brigade fell in behind General Greene's brigade and entered Malate 
 from the east. 
 
 The Assault as Seen from the Ocean. 
 
 At 9 o'clock sharp the Olympiads engines began to throb, and as 
 the flagship moved slowly forward the knotted balls of bunting that 
 clung close to the topmost masthead and peak of all the ships were 
 broken out and the national ensign burst forth in all the radiance of 
 new and virgin color. 
 
 The Charleston, which had been lying near Malate for several days, 
 steamed slowly over and joined the squadron, and a few minutes more 
 saw the Olympia, Baltimore, Monterey, Charleston, Boston, Petrel, 
 TJaleigh, McCulloch, Callao, Barcelo, Zafiro and the Kwonghoi bear- 
 ing off toward Malate. It was a magnificent sight, and the big lead- 
 colored ships maneuvering for their permanent formation, with their 
 streaming banners, must have furnished topics for the Spaniards in 
 Manila to w r rite home about. When the Olympia passed the Immortalite 
 the band on the latter struck up a few bars of "See, the Conquering 
 Hero Comes," swung into the swell of "Star-Spangled 
 
 HOW 
 
 Banner" and then broke into the lively, inspiriting 
 FOREIGN SHIPS . 
 
 MANEUVERED. ^1 Capitan." It was great. As the American ships 
 left the ships in the Cavite anchorage the Immortalite 
 and Iphigenia got under way, and, steaming swiftly across to the Ger- 
 man and French ships, took up their stations directly between the Ger- 
 man flagship and Admiral Dowey's ships. The German admiral as 
 promptly got under way, and took a place in line with the Englishmen. 
 It was onty an incident, but the significance of the British move was 
 tremendously apparent. 
 
 At 4,000 yards the order came to commence firing when ready, and 
 at 9:35 o'clock the Olympia opened with a six-pounder, and almost 
 simultaneously one of the forward eight-inch guns crashed and every 
 glass was turned toward the target. The shots fell short, due to a 
 mistake in the range, which was caused by a miragic effect, making the 
 shore line appear closer. The order was then given to get the five-inch 
 guns ready, and the range was made for 4,200 yards. Two five-inch 
 guns from Ensign Taylor's battery blazed out, then one of tho Stokely
 
 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 101 
 
 Morgan's eight-inch forward guns and then another five-inch gun. 
 Then came the order to cease firing. 
 
 Up to this time 9:50 o'clock the Spaniards had not returned 
 the fire, and it was suspected that they were reserving it for a closer 
 range, or else, as appeared probable, the fort had been deserted. The 
 Raleigh and Petrel had joined in, the Kaleigh's magnificent battery of 
 quick-firing five-inch guns and the Petrel's six-inch guns plowing holes 
 in the landscape and altering the sky line of the fort. 
 
 At 9:50 o'clock the army, which was advancing toward the fort, 
 began firing, and the smoke from their volleys hung in white clouds 
 over their position. Five minutes later there was almost incessant 
 firing from the army, and masses of white smoke were seen leaping out 
 from the fort and the Spanish trenches in answer. At 3,500 yards the 
 order \vas given again on the Olympia to commence firing, but before a 
 gun was fired the order was given to cease firing. At 10 o'clock she 
 opened again, but the shots fell short and to the right. The rain had 
 now fallen into a steady drizzle, and the Admiral and Lieutenant 
 Brumby had put on raincoats and the former changed his naval cap for 
 a cloth traveling cap. 
 
 At 10 o'clock the Callao, very close in shore and moving along 
 parallel w r ith the army's advance, was raking the Spanish trenches 
 with a deadly fire from the machine guns. Lieutenant Tappan was 
 doing wonderful work with the little gunboat, and several Spanish 
 volleys were fired on him as the vessel advanced. A number of bullets 
 struck her, but no one w r as hurt, and she kept up with a steady grind- 
 ing out from her Nordenfeldt and Hotchkiss. The little Barcelo, close 
 behind, was pumping her machine guns in with magnificent effective- 
 ness. Like the little Petrel in the battle of May 1, the Callao and 
 Barcelo seemed to be in the thickest of the fight, and on account of their 
 nearness to shore to be most aggressive and daring. 
 
 From the Olympia the movements of the land forces now became* 
 distinguishable. Where a few moments before their position was 
 marked only by the smoke which rose above the trees from the bat- 
 teries and volley firing, now it was plainly seen that a great number of 
 soldiers were boldly advancing up the open beach and straggling for- 
 ward in the heavy surf. It was a gallant sight to see the long line
 
 102 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 
 
 of brown uniforms streaming up the beach, some waist deep in the surf 
 
 and dashing out along the unprotected strip of sand which lay between 
 
 them and the old fort, where the Spanish guns were 
 
 f AT I ANTRY * 
 
 expected to blaze out any minute in their faces. A 
 
 Af" JL A Ij DED 
 
 BY SAILORS. scattering fire came from the Spanish trenches, and 
 at 10:45 o'clock the troops on the beach stopped and 
 answ r ered with three volleys. When they crossed the little stream 
 about 200 yards in front of the fort, holding their guns high in the 
 air to keep them from being soaked, with the regimental flag and na- 
 tional ensign flying bravel}' at the fore, with their regimental band 
 valiantly following and pla3*ing for dear life, there were thousands of 
 eyes watching them from the ships with silent, almost breathless, 
 anxiety. Slowly they drew nearer the fort, with the Mausers spattering 
 along before them and the band playing. The Admiral said that it was 
 the most gallant advance he had ever seen. The Colorado regimental 
 band was playing "There'll Be a Hot Time in the Old Town To-night." 
 
 Just before the troops reached the powder magazine there was a 
 tremendous explosion and a dense column of black smoke sprung up 
 behind the fort. It was thought that a mine concealed in the road had 
 been exploded. The smoke hung in the air and it was seen that the 
 explosion was followed by a fire. The fort was now deep in smoke from 
 other explosions and the Spanish firing. 
 
 As the troops advanced along the beach and approached nearer 
 the fort the army signaled the fleet to cease firing. The fort was still 
 silent. 
 
 At 10:58 a storm of cheers broke out from the Olympia, for the 
 soldiers had passed the zone of fire and were clambering over the 
 Spanish trenches and swarming into the fort. Hardly a moment passed 
 before the yellow and red flag was seen to be coming down, and the 
 next minute the American flag was raised in its place. 
 
 This was evidently the time agreed upon for the city to surrender, 
 for an order was at once given by the Admiral to fly our international 
 signal, "Do you surrender?" At 11 o'clock it was fluttering from the 
 forward signal halyards of the flagship. With the hoisting of this sig- 
 nal came a general shifting of the positions of the fleet, and all the 
 vessels, with the exception of the Callao, Concord and Barcelo, took
 
 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 103 
 
 their positions before the heavy batteries of Manila. The Monterey 
 steamed to a very close range and waited. Every gun in the fleet that 
 could be trained in that direction was pointed on the Manila guns. If 
 any one of those four 9.2-iuch Hontoria guns had let loose at least a 
 hundred shells would have been launched in on them in less time than 
 it takes to read about it. 
 
 A huge Spanish flag was floating bravely over the city walls near 
 one of the heavy batteries and it did not seem to come down with any 
 particular haste. Nearly every one was watching that gorgeous piece of 
 bunting and hoping that it would be hauled in, but in its persistent 
 wavering there was certainly no indication of surrender or weakening. 
 
 The Zafiro, with General Merritt, approached the Olympia, and 
 as if by a preconcerted agreement the flagship signaled that Flag 
 Lieutenant Brumby would report on board the Zafiro. At 11:45 the 
 Admiral left the bridge to meet Consul Andre, the Belgian representa- 
 tive, w T hose launch had just reached the flagship. Lieutenant Brumby 
 took the largest American flag on the ship and went 
 
 WHFN 
 
 aboard the launch. General Whittier of General Mer- 
 
 ritt's staff came over from the Zafiro in a pulling boat, WAS AT 
 
 and also went aboard the launch Trueno. A few 
 
 minutes later the launch steamed away toward Manila, 1,500 yards 
 
 away. 
 
 At 12 o'clock the international signal "C. F. L.," meaning "hold 
 conference," was hoisted over the city walls. 
 
 Then followed a long wait. Lunch was given the officers and men 
 on the ships, the guns were kept trained on the Manila batteries, and 
 the big Spanish flag still swung in the breezes above the beleaguered 
 city. 
 
 Soon after 2 o'clock the Belgian consul's boat was seen to be re- 
 turning. This seemed to mean that an agreement had not been reached, 
 for the presence of the Spanish colors certainly did not look like 
 capitulation. 
 
 At 2:23 o'clock Lieutenant Brumby, climbing up the sea ladder at 
 the Olympia quarterdeck, called out to the Admiral: "Well, they've sur- 
 rendered all right."
 
 104 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 
 
 The Admiral quickly answered, "Why don't they haul down that 
 flag?" 
 
 "They'll do that as soon as Merritt gets 600 or 700 men in there to 
 protect them," explained Lieutenant Brumby. 
 
 The Admiral then said: "Well, you go over and tell General Mer- 
 ritt that I agree to anything." 
 
 As the news passed that the city had surrendered, the rigging was 
 manned and tremendous cheers broke out over the dull sea. All the 
 ships of the fleet were cheering as the news was signaled. 
 
 At 5:45 the Spanish flag in the city was seen slowly coming down, 
 and a minute later the enormous American flag w r as hoisted in its place. 
 Just as the huge flag went up, the sun, which through the greater por- 
 tion of the day had been obscured, now burst through the clouds hang- 
 ing over Manila and illuminated the banner with a blaze of light. It 
 was as opportune as the calcium light in the theater which falls on the 
 center of the stage when the star enters. 
 
 The ships of the fleet saluted the new flag with twenty-one guns 
 each. In ten minutes nearly 180 saluting charges were fired. 
 
 At 6 o'clock the band on the flagship struck up "The Victory of 
 Manila," and the officers relaxed into a riot of speechmaking and gayety. 
 Manila was ours, and peace could be declared at any minute. 
 
 By 10 o'clock 10,000 soldiers were in the city. The 2d Oregon 
 
 patrolled the walled city and guarded its nine entrances. General 
 
 Greene marched his brigade around the walled city 
 
 R ^ J u^^VJ^ R into Binondo. The 1st California was sent east to 
 
 I III, LAI 1LKL 
 
 OF MANILA. tue fashionable official residence district of Mala- 
 canay, the 1st Colorado was sent into Tondo and the 
 1st Nebraska was established on the north shore of the Pasig river. 
 Mac-Arthur's brigade patrolled Ermita and Malate. 
 
 In the walled city the Spaniards had surrendered their arms at 
 the governor's palace. By nightfall over 7,000 rifles had been surren- 
 dered, and by the following evening nearly 1,000 more were turned in. 
 The big American flag was hoisted by Lieutenant Brumby, and as the 
 Oregonians entered from the Kwonjjhoi the afternoon of the fight their 
 band struck up "The Star-Spangled Banner." The women wept as the
 
 THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF MANILA. 105 
 
 Spanish ensign went down, and the soldiers cheered as the American 
 flag went up. 
 
 The night of the battle was quiet. Except for a few cases reported 
 of the insurgents looting the houses of Spaniards, there was no dis- 
 order. The American soldiers at once began to fraternize with the 
 Spanish soldiers. Terms of capitulation were agreed upon promptly 
 between American and Spanish commanders and the occupation of the 
 Spanish capital of the Philippines was complete. General Merritt's 
 first great task after that of safely transporting an army across the 
 Pacific was accomplished. His own report, ending as follows, is but 
 a just appreciation of the excellence of the work done by his men. Its 
 expressions of approval are no warmer than those given to General 
 Merritt himself by those who know his work: 
 
 ''Immediately after the surrender the Spanish colors on the sea 
 front were hauled down and the American flag displayed and saluted 
 by the guns of the navy. The 2d Oregon llegiment, which had 
 proceeded by sea from Cavite, was disembarked and entered the walled 
 town as a provost guard, and the colonel was directed to receive the 
 Spanish arms and deposit them in places of security. The town was 
 filled with the troops of the enemy driven in from the entrenchments, 
 regiments formed and standing in line in the streets, but the work of 
 disarming proceeded quietly and nothing unpleasant REPORT OF 
 occurred. GENERAL 
 
 "In leaving the subject of the operations of the W pc T T?v TVTFTTRTTT 
 
 -oj, ~r -t ' -, , j." <? J.T i WJSSJLJil JH..LK.K111. 
 
 13tn I desire here to record my appreciation of the ad- 
 mirable manner in which the orders for attack and the plan for occu- 
 pation of the city were carried out by the troops exactly as contem- 
 plated. I submit that for troops to enter under fire a town covering a 
 wide area, to rapidly deploy and guard all principal points in the ex- 
 tensive suburbs, to keep out the insurgent forces- pressing for admis- 
 sion, to quietly disarm an army of Spaniards more than equal in num- 
 bers to the American troops, and finally by all this to prevent entirely 
 all rapine, pillage, and disorder, and gain entire and complete posses- 
 sion of a city of 300,000 people filled with natives hostile to the Eu- 
 ropean interests, and stirred up by the knowledge that their own peo- 
 ple were fighting in the outside trenches, was an act w T hich only the 
 law-abiding, temperate, resolute American soldier, well and skillfully 
 handled by his regimental and brigade commanders, could accomplish."
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 
 
 Filipinos Seeking Independence, Not New Ownership Grave Problems to Be Faced 
 by American Commanders in Manila How Aguinaldo's Services Were 
 Enlisted Insurgent Government Organized Aguinaldo's Relations with 
 Dewey and Merritt Organization of an American Government in Manila 
 Under Army Officers Proclamation of General Merritt Filipino Commissioner 
 Starts for Washington The Treaty of Peace Spaniards Surrender Iloilo to 
 Filipinos American Troops Refused a Landing Friction Increases. 
 
 IN THEIR warfare against Spain, the insurgent Filipinos were 
 seeking freedom and independence for themselves and their own 
 
 land not a mere shifting of subjection from one flag to another. 
 They did not know the Americans, for American enterprise had scarcely 
 been seen in the Philippines. They had not been even interested in 
 Americans until the outbreak of war, so far away were they and so sel- 
 dom was there any contact whatever. When the assault on Manila was 
 threatened the Spanish authorities of the city issued a proclamation 
 broadcast, asserting that a victory by the American fleet would mean 
 disaster to property, public and private; that helpless men, women 
 and children would fall victims to the violence of the sailors, who 
 would be given free reign to ravage the city, and that the only safety 
 for all was a united resistance. Ignorant of the true character of the 
 Americans as they were, it is not strange that such information struck 
 terror to the hearts of many people, 
 
 The result of these conditions was that the victories of Dewey and 
 
 Merritt left by no means all of the problems of the Philippines solved. 
 
 They had to face a situation surpassingly difficult, 
 
 for which they had no precedents, and solve the prob- 
 FACESG 
 
 AND MEKKITT. 1(>ms b( ' fore them as best they could. The story of the 
 organization of peace and order out of chaos under 
 American rule in Manila is an interesting one. The complications
 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 107 
 
 which followed there and in other parts of the archipelago were quite 
 to be expected when all conditions were considered. 
 
 When Admiral Dewey arrived at Hongkong, Aguinaldo, leader 
 of the insurrection against Spain, was in Singapore. As related in 
 an earlier chapter, the war had been interrupted by the agreement 
 of the Spanish government with Aguinaldo and the other insurgent 
 leaders to pay them $800,000 and introduce all the reforms for which 
 the Filipinos had been asking. There is no doubt that the Spaniards 
 thought they were taking a cheap means of stopping insurrection by 
 bribing the leaders. But Aguinaldo and his associates chose to con- 
 sider it a trust fund to be held as a guarantee of 
 
 Spanish good faith. Of the promised money, $400,000 AGUINALDO'S 
 
 ' HIGH SENSE 
 
 was paid into a bank in Hongkong. A lawsuit soon OF PATRIOTISM. 
 
 arose between Aguinaldo and one of his subordinate 
 chiefs named Artacho, which is interesting on account of the very hon- 
 orable position taken by Aguinaldo. Artacho sued for a division of 
 the money among the insurgents according to rank. Aguinaldo claimed 
 that the money was a trust fund and was to remain on deposit until it 
 was seen whether the Spaniards would carry out their proposed re- 
 forms, and if they failed to do so it was to be used in defraying the 
 expense of a new insurrection, as afterward actually was the case. The 
 suit was settled out of court by paying Artacho $5,000. 
 
 On the 24th day of April, Aguinaldo met the United States consul 
 and others at Singapore and offered to begin a new insurrection in 
 conjunction with the operations of the United States navy at Manila. 
 This was telegraphed to Admiral Dewey and, by his consent, or, at his 
 request, Aguinaldo left Singapore for Hongkong on April 26, and, when 
 the McCulloch went to Hongkong early in May to carry the news of 
 Admiral Dewey's victory, it took Aguinaldo and seventeen other revo- 
 lutionary chiefs on board and brought them to Manila bay. They soon 
 after landed at Cavite, and the Admiral allowed them to take such 
 guns, ammunition and stores as he did not require for himself. With 
 these and some other arms which he had brought from Hongkong, 
 Aguinaldo armed his followers, who rapidly assembled at Cavite and, 
 in a few weeks, he began moving against the Spaniards. Part of them 
 surrendered, giving him more arms, and the others retreated to Manila.
 
 108 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 
 
 Soon afterwards two ships, which were the private property of 
 Senor Agoncillo and other insurgent sympathizers, were converted into 
 cruisers and sent with insurgent troops to Subig bay and other places, 
 to capture provinces outside of Manila. They were very successful, the 
 native militia in Spanish service capitulating with their arms in nearly 
 every case without serious resistance. On the 18th of June Aguinaldo 
 issued a proclamation from Cavite establishing a dictatorial govern- 
 ment with himself as dictator. In each village or pueblo a chief was 
 to be elected, and in each ward a nendrum; also in each pueblo three 
 delegates, one of police, one of justice, and one of taxes. These were 
 to constitute the junta, or assembly, and after consulting the junta the 
 chiefs of pueblos were to elect a chief of province and 
 three counsellors, one of police, one of justice, and 
 GOVERNMENT. one f taxes. They were also to elect one or more 
 representatives from each province to form the revo- 
 lutionary congress. This was followed on June 20 by a decree giving^ 
 more detailed instructions in regard to the elections. On June 23 an- 
 other decree followed, changing the title of the government from dic- 
 tatorial to revolutionary, and of the chief officer from dictator to presi- 
 dent; announcing a cabinet with a minister of foreign affairs, marine 
 and commerce, another of war and public works, another of police and 
 internal order, justice, instruction and hygiene, and another of taxes, 
 agriculture and manufactures; the powers of the president and con- 
 gress were defined, and a code of military justice was formulated. On 
 the same date a manifesto was issued to the world explaining the rea- 
 sons and purposes of the revolution. On June 27 another decree was 
 issued containing instructions in regard to elections. On August f> an 
 address was issued to foreign governments, stating that the revolution- 
 ary government was in operation and control in fifteen provinces, and 
 that in response to the petition of the duly elected chiefs of these prov- 
 inces, recognition of belligerency and independence was requested. 
 
 In this address it was announced that the revolutionary govern- 
 ment ruled in fifteen provinces and had the city of Manila besieged. 
 Order and tranquillity reigned. Nine thousand prisoners of war were 
 hold by the insurgents, and an army of 30,000 was declared to be under 
 arms.
 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 109 
 
 In the province of Cavite and that portion of the province of Manila 
 outside of the city and of its suburbs, which was occupied by the in- 
 surgent troops as well as those of the United States, their military 
 forces, military headquarters, etc., were very much in evidence, occu- 
 pying the principal houses and churches in every village and hamlet, 
 but there were no signs of civil government or administration. It was 
 reported, however, that Aguinaldo's agents were levying taxes or forced 
 contributions not only in the outside villages, but (after the Americans 
 entered Manila) by means of secret agents, in the market place of the 
 city itself. At Aguinaldo's headquarters, in Bakor, there were signs 
 of activity and business, and his cabinet officers were in constant ses- 
 sion there. 
 
 Aguinaldo never himself failed to claim all the prerogatives due to 
 his alleged position as the de facto ruler of the country. The only 
 general officer who saw him or had any direct communication with him 
 was General Anderson. He did much to thwart this officer in organiz- 
 ing a native wagon train and otherwise providing for 
 his troops, and he went so far, in a letter of July 23, AGUISALDO 
 
 AND THF 
 
 as to warn General Anderson not to land American AMERICAN ARMY. 
 troops on Philippine soil without his consent a no- 
 tice which, it is hardly necessary to say, was ignored. The day before 
 the attack on Manila he sent staff officers to the same general, asking 
 for the American plans of attack, so that their troops could enter Manila 
 with them. 
 
 Aguinaldo did not call upon General Merritt on his arrival, and 
 this enabled the latter to avoid any communication with him, either 
 direct or indirect, until after Manila had been taken. General Merritt 
 then received one of Aguinaldo's staff officers in his office as military 
 governor. The interview lasted more than an hour. General Merritt 
 referred to his proclamation as showing the conditions under which 
 the American troops had come to Manila and the nature of the military 
 government, which would be maintained until further orders from 
 Washington. He agreed upon the lines outside of the city of Manila, 
 up to which the insurgent troops could come, but no further, with arms 
 in their hands. He asked for possession of the water works, which was 
 given, and, while expressing our friendship and sympathy for the Philip-
 
 110 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 
 
 pine people, he stated very positively that the United States govern- 
 ment had placed at his disposal an ample force for carrying out his in- 
 structions, and even if the services of Aguinaldo's forces had been 
 needed as allies he should not have felt at liberty to accept them. 
 
 From the first it was seen that the problem of how to deal with 
 Aguinaldo's government and troops would necessarily be accompanied 
 with embarrassment and difficulty, and would require much tact and 
 skill in its solution. The United States government, through its naval 
 commander, had to some extent made use of them for a distinct mili- 
 tary purpose, to harass and annoy the Spanish troops, to wear them 
 out in the trenches, to blockade Manila on the land side, and to do as 
 much damage as possible to the Spanish government prior to the 
 arrival of our troops, and for this purpose the Admiral allowed them 
 to take the arms and munitions which he had captured at Cavite, and 
 their ships to pass in and out of Manila bay in their expeditions against 
 other provinces. But the Admiral was very careful to give Aguinaldo 
 no assurances of recognition and no pledges or promises of any descrip- 
 tion. The services which Aguinaldo and his adherents rendered in 
 preparing the way for attack on Manila are certainly entitled to con- 
 sideration, but, after all, they were small in comparison with what was 
 done by our fleet and arn^y. 
 
 An American Government in Manila. 
 
 Our army entered Manila on the afternoon of August 13. On the 
 14th the capitulation was signed, and the same day General Merritt 
 issued his proclamation establishing a military government. On the 
 15th General MacArthur was appointed military commander of the 
 walled city and provost-marshal-general of the city of Manila and its 
 suburbs, and on the 17th General Greene was appointed to take charge 
 of the duties performed by the minister of finance, and all fiscal affairs. 
 Representatives of the postoffice department had arrived on the steam- 
 ship China in July and they immediately took charge of the Manila 
 postoffice, which was opened for business on the 16th. The custom 
 house was opened on the 18th, with Lieutenant-Colonel Whittier as 
 collector, and the internal revenue office, with Major Bern ent as collector 
 on the 22d. Captain Glass of the navy was appointed captain of the
 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. Ill 
 
 port, or naval officer, and took charge of the office on August 19th. The 
 collections of customs during the first ten days exceeded $100,000. The 
 collection of internal revenue was small owing to the difficulty and 
 delay in ascertaining what persons had or had not paid their taxes for 
 the current year. The administration of water works was put in charge 
 of Lieutenant Connor, of the engineers, on August 25; the provost court 
 with Lieutenant-Colonel Jewett, judge advocate United States volun- 
 teers, sitting as judge, was appointed and held its first session on 
 August 23. 
 
 The provost-marshal-general had charge of the police, fire, health 
 and street cleaning departments, and the issuing of licenses. The 
 guardia civil, or gendarmerie of the city, proving indifferent and inef- 
 ficient, they were disarmed and disbanded; the 13th Minnesota regi- 
 ment was detailed for police duty, and one or more companies stationed 
 in each police station, from which patrolmen were sent out on the 
 streets to take the place of the sentries who had constantly patrolled 
 them from the hour of entering the city. 
 
 The shops were all closed on Saturday afternoon, the 13th; on 
 Monday some of them opened, and by Wednesday the banks had resumed 
 business, the newspapers were published, and the merchants were ready 
 to declare goods at the custom house; the tram cars 
 
 were running and the retail shops were all open and PROMF 
 
 TO PEACE- 
 doing a large business. There was no disorder or pil- FUL( jjouTl> 7 E. 
 
 lage of any kind in the city. The conduct of the troops 
 was simply admirable, and left no ground for criticism. It was noted 
 and commented upon by the foreign naval officers in the most favorable 
 terms, and it so surprised the Spanish soldiers that a considerable num- 
 ber of them applied for permission to enlist in the American service. 
 
 A total of about $900,000 of public funds belonging to the various 
 government departments was taken in charge by General Greene to 
 be applied properly in public service. 
 
 On the day after the battle of Manila, and consequently on Au- 
 gust 14, General Merritt issued the following proclamation to the 
 Filipinos:
 
 112 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 
 
 "Headquarters Department of the Pacific, August 14, 1898. 
 "To the People of the Philippines : 
 
 "I. War has existed between the United States and Spain since 
 April 21 of this year. Since that date you have witnessed the destruc- 
 tion by an American fleet of the Spanish naval power in these islands, 
 the fall of the principal city, Manila, and its defenses, and the surren- 
 der of the Spanish army of occupation to the forces of the United 
 States. 
 
 "II. The commander of the United States forces now in possession 
 has instructions from his government to assure the people that he has 
 not come to wage war upon them, nor upon any part or faction among 
 them, but to protect them in their homes, in their employments, and 
 in their personal and religious rights. All persons who, by active aid 
 or honest submission, co-operate with the United States in its efforts 
 to give effect to this beneficent purpose, will receive the reward of its 
 support and protection. 
 
 "III. The government established among you by the United States 
 is a government of military occupation; and for the present it is or- 
 dered that the municipal laws such as affect private rights of persons 
 and property, regulate local institutions, and provide for the punish- 
 ment of crime, shall be considered as continuing in force, so far as 
 compatible with the purposes of military government, and that they be 
 administered through the ordinary tribunals substantially as before 
 occupation, but by officials appointed by the government of occupation. 
 
 "IV. A provost-marshal-general will be appointed for the city of 
 Manila and its outlying districts. This territory will be divided in^o 
 sub-districts, and there will be assigned to each a deputy-provost- 
 marshal. 
 
 The duties of the provost-marshal-general and his deputies will 
 
 be set forth in detail in future orders. In a general way they are 
 
 charged with the duty of making arrests of military, as well as civil 
 
 GENERAL MER- offenders, sending such of the former class as are 
 
 ROT'S FIRST triable by courts-martial to their proper commands, 
 
 ui?ftrr AM *TTrw with statements of their offenses and names of wit- 
 
 rMiULljAMAllUi>. ,,,... , 
 
 nesses, and detaining in custody all other offenders 
 for trial by military commission, provost courts, or native criminal 
 courts, in accordance with law and the instructions hereafter to be 
 issued. 
 
 "V. The port of Manila, and all other ports and places in the 
 Philippines which may bo in the actual possession of our land and 
 naval forces, will be open, while our military occupation may continue, 
 to the commerce of all neutral nations as well as our own, in articles not 
 contraband of war, and upon payment of the prescribed rates of duty 
 which may be in force at the time of the importation. 
 
 "VI. All churches and places devoted to religious worship and 
 to the arts and sciences, all educational institutions, libraries, scientific
 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 113 
 
 collections, and museums are, so far as possible, to be protected; and 
 all destruction or intentional defacement of such places or property, 
 of historical monuments, archives, or works of science and art, is pro- 
 hibited, save when required by urgent military necessity. Severe pun- 
 ishment will be meted out for all violations of this regulation. 
 
 "The custodians of all property of the character mentioned in this 
 section will m^ke prompt returns thereof to th^se headquarters, stating 
 character and location, and embodying such recommendations as they 
 may think proper for the full protection of the properties under their 
 care and custody, that proper orders may issue enjoining the co-opera- 
 tion of both military and civil authorities in securing such protection. 
 
 "VI. The commanding general, in announcing the establishment of 
 military government, and in entering upon his duty as military gov- 
 ernor in pursuance of his appointment as such by the government of the 
 United States, desires to assure the people that so long as they preserve 
 the peace and perform their duties toward the representatives of the 
 United States they will not be disturbed in their persons and prop- 
 erty, except in so far as may be found necessary for the good of the 
 service of the United States and the benefit of the people of the Philip- 
 pines. 
 
 "WESLEY MERK1TT, 
 "Major-General, United States Army, Commanding." 
 
 Looking forward to the securing of the best conditions possible for 
 his country, Aguinaldo lost no time in sending a commissioner to 
 Washington to represent the Filipinos. Senor Felipe Agoncillo was 
 assigned to this important mission, and he journeyed to San Francisco 
 by the same steamer which carried General Greene. General Merritt 
 at the same time started for Paris to be present at the meeting of the 
 treaty commissioners there. 
 
 From the time of the arrival of land forces, Aguinaldo had been 
 exercised as to what share in the battle of Manila would be allowed the 
 insurgents. He was reluctant to be put aside, and resented the request 
 that he evacuate his trenches and permit American 
 
 soldiers to take position there. After !hat time, when AGUINALDO 
 
 . BECOMES 
 
 he and his government were refused any part in the RESTLESS. 
 
 direction of affairs in Manila and his army was turned 
 back when endeavoring to enter the city with the victorious Americans, 
 he became more restless under the restraint and complications began 
 to arise. 
 
 One of the most important moves in the effort to obtain an adjust-
 
 114 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 
 
 ment of relationships by the Filipinos was the issue by their junta 
 in Hongkong of an appeal to the Americans. It recited their com- 
 plaints, some of the allegations, however, being overdrawn, and begged 
 for redress. This appeal, issued November 15, was as follows: 
 
 "We, the Hongkong representatives of our countrymen, appeal to 
 the great and good judgment of President McKinley and the spirit 
 of fairness and justice of the American people as always shown in their 
 regard for the petitions of the weak and oppressed. 
 
 "While the fate of the islands is still undecided, and we are doing 
 all in our power to prevent a conflict between the Americans and Fili- 
 pinos waiting patiently for the conclusion of the Paris conference 
 we implore the intervention of the President, supported by the will 
 of the people, to end the slights shown our leaders, officials, soldiers 
 and people by some of the American military and naval authorities 
 and soldiers. 
 
 "We do not wish to do Admiral Dewey or General Otis wrong, but 
 we presume that reports, under press censorship, will be, as they have 
 been, sent broadcast, alleging that all the mistakes are ours and that 
 the Americans are treating us most kindly. But we must tell the truth 
 for the best interests of both parties, depending upon the American 
 President and people to see that justice is done to our leaders, 
 Aguinaldo especially, having full confidence in ultimately receiving 
 justice from America. 
 
 "What have we done that we should experience unfriendly treat- 
 ment? Are the Americans our friends? The tension becomes greater 
 daily, and any moment a shot ma}* be fired by an irresponsible Amer- 
 ican or Filipino soldier. And the flame thus started can only be 
 quenched with blood dear to us both. 
 
 "We beseech the American President and people to help us to 
 control our own people by directing the officials at Manila to temper 
 their actions with friendship, justice and fairness. 
 
 "We suggest that Admiral Dewey and General 
 
 PERTINENT Qtis an(1 General Merritt, in Paris, be asked: 
 
 TO BE ASKED. "^' ^ roin the commencement of hostilities to the 
 
 present time, have not Aguinaldo and the Filipinos 
 under him acceded in every request of the American officials?
 
 HOW THE FIELDS OF THE PHILIPPINES ARE PLOWED 
 
 The Filipinos have a surprise awaiting them in the introduction of American agricultural implements. 
 In this picture the motive power is no more primitive than the plow. 
 
 HAULING BRIDGE TIMBERS IN LUZON, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 
 
 The rough carts employed for freighting in the Philippines and the peculiar draft-cattle used for draw- 
 ing them, can bear heavier loads than one might heliW** without knowledge.
 
 A PUBLIC READER IN THE CITY OF MANILA 
 
 In the Phflippine Islands it is the practice for public readers to take their station in a favorable 
 place and read the papers and books of the day to such as wish to patronize their industry. In the cigar 
 factories, as in those of Cuba and Puerto Rico, readers are employed for the entertainment of the 
 cigarmakers while the latter are at work.
 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 117 
 
 "When Manila was captured, although the Filipinos had driven 
 the Spaniards into Manila, completely investing the city and occupying 
 some of the roads commanding in part the approaches to Manila, in 
 advance of the Americans, were Filipinos not entirely ignored and 
 even not notified of the intention to attack, or of the time or part 
 they were expected to play, even if such was to stand aside? 
 
 "When the Filipinos, seeing the intention to attack, went to the 
 assistance of the Americans, were they not stopped by an armed body 
 and faced about, instead of being informed by friendly, peaceful 
 request that they were not wanted? This unexpected action would 
 have placed the Americans between two fires, Spanish and Filipino, 
 if shots had been exchanged in the excitement of the moment had not 
 then the Filipinos restrained themselves and obeyed the Americans, 
 although deprived of the fruits of victory and participation in the final 
 triumph after fighting all the way to the very walls and bearing the 
 brunt of three months' campaign. 
 
 "After remaining a month on the outskirts of the city, where we 
 had been stopped, quietly, as a garrison, we were ordered away. Did 
 not we cheerfully obey, although having no assurances that the Amer- 
 icans would not give back the Manila posts, vacated, to the Spanish? 
 When located for several months still farther out, we were ordered 
 even beyond the suburbs of the city, where no quarters or shelter 
 existed for troops and where supplies were difficult to obtain, did not 
 we obey? 
 
 "Can the cruel allegations that we would murder, loot, steal and 
 commit incendiarism if .given a free hand be supported, when we con- 
 ducted a campaign throughout Luzon, capturing all 
 the important points outside of Manila and taking 
 
 MODERATE 
 
 and treating humanely a thousand Spanish prisoners j^ WARFVRE. 
 without being guilty of such acts, beyond what ac- 
 companies any military campaign, as the work of irresponsible camp- 
 followers? 
 
 "We beg that the American officials be asked also if all the Amer- 
 icans visiting the Filipinos' headquarters at Malolos, traveling in the 
 interior, visiting the camps and lines or seeking favors of our officials, 
 were not uniformly politely treated?
 
 118 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 
 
 "In a friendly manner we invite the consideration of other points. 
 Groundless and harmful rumors are being constantly circulated by 
 Spanish sympathizers and malcontents, which are often believed with- 
 out investigation. Our protests are not heard. 
 
 "All our launches were seized because of foolish rumors that we 
 would attack the Americans. We asked for an explanation in seek- 
 ing their recovery, and were not even given an answer. 
 
 "Our enemies were delighted, thus encouraging further rumors. 
 
 "Should not some logical reason, other than mere report, be given 
 for suddenly seizing our property in Manila? 
 
 "The Spaniards, the late enemies of the Americans, are shown 
 every consideration, and the Filipinos, friends and allies, are often 
 treated as enemies. Does this satisfy American ideas of justice? The 
 Filipino people cannot understand it, although their leaders tell them 
 not to protest and that all will end well. 
 
 "We are asked by the Americans to restrain our people and avoid 
 any outbreak pending the decision of the peace commission. This 
 we gladly do. But we beg that similar instructions be given to the 
 Americans by the Washington government. 
 
 "From the beginning of our relations, when Aguinaldo was urged 
 in Singapore and Hongkong to return to Cavite and assist the Amer- 
 icans, until Manila fell, we acted under the advice and with the knowl- 
 edge of the American officials. During that time we conquered all of 
 Luzon outside of Manila and were informally recognized and encour- 
 aged by the Americans. When Manila was captured their chief end 
 w r as attained, we were no longer recognized a\yl were even treated as 
 untrustworthy. Is this just? 
 
 "We can only attribute this sudden change from friendly encour- 
 agement and co-operation to an order from Washington to the officials 
 at Manila to avoid compromising the American government by any 
 recognition of the Filipinos or their government. They have endeav- 
 ored to carry out these instructions literally, believing it the proper 
 course to ignore the Filipinos entirely, losing sight of their former 
 friendly intercourse and assistance and of the assurances the American 
 officials made to our leader Aguinaldo, who in turn communicated the 
 same to his followers.
 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 119 
 
 "In concluding our humble but earnest appeal to the President and 
 the people of the great American Republic we wish to emphasize our 
 absolute confidence in him and them to make it plain 
 that our protests are not prompted by any feeling FRANK GRATITUDE 
 of animosity, but are directed against the conditions AMERICANS. 
 existing at Manila, and not against the American 
 government or people, to acknowledge our gratitude to the American 
 arms for destroying Spanish power in the Philippines and permitting 
 the return of Aguinaldo, and to express the hope that America will 
 stand by her determination not to return the islands to Spain. 
 
 "We await the arbitrament of the peace commission, for whose 
 good judgment we have profound respect, with even greater interest 
 than the Americans, because it concerns our native land, our happi- 
 ness, our freedom and our homes. 
 
 "In the meantime we pray for peace and a perfect understanding 
 with the Americans." 
 
 B}- this time General Merritt was in London on his way to the 
 United States and he read with a great deal of interest the long 
 letter of complaint against American officials in the Philippine islands 
 addressed by the Filipino junta of Hongkong to President McKinley 
 and the people. In discussing the Filipinos, the American general 
 referred to them as "children," and said it would be impossible to 
 establish American government- in the islands. He added that they 
 must have some form of colonial government similar to the British 
 colonial governments. 
 
 Regarding the complaints of the Filipinos the general said: 
 
 "It was impossible to recognize the insurgents, and I made it a 
 point not to do so, as I knew it would lead to complications. Admiral 
 Dewey after my arrival pursued the same course. What was done 
 before is not for me to comment on. I purposely did not recognize 
 Aguinaldo or his troops, nor did I use them in any way. Aguinaldo 
 did not ask to see me until ten days after my arrival. After that I was 
 too much occupied to see him. 
 
 "In talking with leading Filipinos I told them the United States 
 had no promises to make, but that they might be assured that the 
 government and people of the United States would treat them fairly.
 
 120 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 
 
 This was because the United States is in the habit of dealing fairly 
 with all struggling peoples, and not because I had been authorized 
 to saj' anything of the kind. 
 
 "We purposely did not give the insurgents notice of our attack 
 on Manila because we did not need their co-operation and did not pur- 
 pose to have it. We were moved by fear that they might loot and 
 plunder and possibly murder. Aguinaldo's subordinate leaders, in con- 
 versing with American officers, frequently said they intended to cut 
 the throats of all the Spaniards in Manila. 
 
 "Aguinaldo himself wrote a complaining letter saying the insur- 
 gents had been denied 'their share of the booty,' whatever he may have 
 meant by that. I took no notice of this letter nor do I think the sub- 
 ject now raised is a matter for discussion between Aguinaldo and any 
 representative of the American government." 
 
 General Otis, then the commander of the American forces in the 
 Philippines, proposed to Aguinaldo that he release the friars and civil- 
 ians held in captivity throughout the provinces. The insurgent leader 
 denied their maltreatment and refused to release the prisoners, claim- 
 ing that the civilians had enlisted as volunteers and therefore were 
 legitimate prisoners of war. Aguinaldo also denied that womeu and 
 children were detained, but said some women and children had volun- 
 tarily accompanied their husbands or fathers into captivity. 
 
 As to the friars, Aguinaldo argued that they are prohibited by 
 the pope from accepting parochial appointments; that they are only 
 permitted to follow monastic life, and that the par- 
 isl ' OS alV intl ' 11ste(1 to "lingers of the independent 
 PRISOXFRS. monastic orders. But, lie added, the 'Philippine cler- 
 icals have 1 deliberately and systematically deceived 
 the pope, pretending that the country was barbarous, unfit for the 
 regular ministry and that it. was necessary that the monastic orders 
 should administer the parishes. Therefore, Aguinaldo continued, lie 
 considered it necessary to detain I lie friars until the pope is unde- 
 ceived. 
 
 Newspapers in the Philippines began to publish inflammatory and 
 aggressive articles regarding the Americans. 
 
 The most threatening complications of all were centered about
 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS, 121 
 
 Iloilo, the second city of the islands, on the island of Panay, 355 miles 
 south of Manila, This is one of the group known as the Visayas 
 islands. Iloilo was besieged by the insurgents and so closely encircled 
 that the Spanish garrison which was stationed there finally was 
 unable to hold out any longer. Several thousand soldiers were sur- 
 rendered to the native forces, with large quantities of arms and ammu- 
 nition, on the 24th of December. 
 
 Three days later an American expedition, which had been hurried 
 southward from Manila under the command of General Marcus P. Mil- 
 ler, arrived at Iloilo, and found that the Spaniards had evacuated the 
 place. The steamer Churuca transferred the Spanish 
 forces to Mindanao. In accordance with an agree- 
 
 C Al A L Ri C 1 1 Y 
 
 m out the rebels entered the city and trenches on 
 
 Monday at noon. They immediately established a 
 municipal government. Guards were placed over foreign property. 
 Even-thing was quiet and orderh". There was some looting during the 
 night, but five natives were shot, and this had an exemplary effect. 
 The onl} T foreign ship in the harbor was the German cruiser Irene. 
 The Filipinos assured the Americans that they might land unarmed, 
 but that if the latter landed armed the natives would be uncontrollable. 
 Every preparation was made for resistance upon the part of the rebels, 
 and re-enforcements were arriving from Xegros and the neighboring 
 islands. 
 
 To define the position of the American authorities in the Philip- 
 pines, President McKinley issued a letter to the secretary of war, with 
 instructions that it be transmitted to General Otis and by him embodied 
 in a public proclamation to the Filipinos. The letter was as follows: 
 
 "Executive Mansion, Washington, D. C., Dec-ember 21, 1898. 
 To the Secretary of War. Sir: The destruction of the Spanish fleet 
 in the harbor of Manila by the United States naval squadron com- 
 manded by Rear-Admiral Dewey, followed by the reduction of the city 
 and the surrender of the Spanish forces, practically effected the con- 
 quest of the Philippine islands and the suspension of Spanish sover- 
 eignty therein. 
 
 "With the signature of the treaty of peace between the United 
 States and Spain by their respective plenipotentiaries at Paris on the 
 10th insi., and as the result of the victories of American arms, the 
 future control, disposition and government of the Philippine islands
 
 122 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 
 
 are ceded to the United States. In fulfillment of the rights of sover- 
 eignty thus acquired and the responsible obligations of government 
 thus assumed, the actual occupation and administration of the entire 
 group of the Philippine islands becomes immediately necessary, and 
 the military government heretofore maintained by the United States 
 in the city, harbor and bay of Manila is to be extended with all possible 
 dispatch to the whole of the ceded territory. 
 
 "In performing this duty the military commander of the United 
 States is enjoined to make known to the inhabitants of the Philippine 
 islands that, in succeeding to the sovereignty of Spain, in severing the 
 former political relations of the inhabitants and in establishing a new 
 political power, the authority of the United States is to be exerted for 
 the sovereignty of the persons and property of the people of the islands 
 and for the confirmation of all their private rights and relations. 
 
 "It will be the duty of the commander of the forces of occupation 
 to announce and proclaim in the most public manner that we come not 
 as invaders or conquerors, but as friends, to protect the natives in 
 their homes, in their employments and in their personal and religious 
 rights. All persons who, either by active aid or honest submission, 
 co-operate with the government of the United States, to give effect to 
 these benefits and purposes, will receive the reward of its support and 
 protection. All others will be brought within the lawful rule we have 
 assumed with firmness, if need be, but without severity so far as may 
 be possible. 
 
 "Within the absolute domain of military authority, which neces- 
 sarily is and must remain supreme in the cedt?d territory until the 
 TVRPT TW TTTXTPV legislation f the United States shall otherwise pro- 
 WRITE vi< ? e ' tbe mnnici P al laws of the territory in respect to 
 
 FFTTFT? private rights and property and the repression of 
 crime are to be considered as continuing in force and 
 to be administered by the ordinary tribunals so far as possible. The 
 operations of civil and municipal government are to be performed by 
 such officers as may accept the supremacy of the United States by 
 taking the oath of allegiance, or by officers chosen as far as may be 
 practicable from the inhabitants of the islands. 
 
 "While the control of all the public property and the revenues of 
 the state passes with the cession and while the use and management 
 of all public means of transportation are necessarily reserved to the 
 authority of the United States, private property, whether belonging 
 to individuals or corporations, is to be respected except for cause fully 
 established. The taxes and duties heretofore. payable by the inhabi- 
 tants to the late government become payable to the authorities of the 
 United States unless it be seen fit to substitute for them other reason- 
 able rates or modes of contribution to the expenses of government, 
 whether general or local. If private property be taken for military 
 use it shall be paid for when possible in cash at a fair valuation and
 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 123 
 
 when payment in cash is not practicable receipts are to be given. 
 
 "All ports and places in the Philippine islands in the actual pos- 
 session of the land and naval forces of the United States will be opened 
 to the commerce of all friendly nations. All goods and wares, not 
 prohibited for military reasons by due announcement of the military 
 authority, will be admitted upon payment of such duties and other 
 charges as shall be in force at the time of their importation. 
 
 "Finally, it should be the earnest and paramount aim of the mili- 
 tary administration to win the confidence, respect and affection of the 
 inhabitants of the Philippines by assuring to them in every possible 
 way that full measure of individual rights and liberty which is the 
 heritage of free people and by proving to them that the mission of 
 the United States is one of benevolent assimilation, substituting the 
 mild sway of justice and right for arbitrary rule. In the fulfillment 
 of this high mission, supporting the temperate administration of affairs 
 for the greatest good of the governed, there must be sedulously main- 
 tained the strong arm of authority, to repress disturbance and to over- 
 come all obstacles to the bestowal of the blessings of good and stable 
 government upon the people of the Philippine islands under the free 
 flag of the United States. WILLIAM M'KINLEY." 
 
 Commenting upon President McKinley's proclamation to the Fili- 
 pinos issued by General Otis, the Independencia, a native paper, de- 
 clared the problem presented most grave. It admitted that there were 
 only two solutions possible namely, the American abandonment of 
 their annexation policy, claiming that the people here are not desirous 
 of absorption in their nationality, or a prolonged and bloody war. It 
 cited the example of the^ "noble patriots of Iloilo defying General 
 Miller," expressed hope for a pacific termination of the crisis, but 
 hinted of trouble. 
 
 Within a few hours of the proclamation issued by Major-General 
 Otis in behalf of President McKinley the agents of Aguinaldo billed 
 Manila with a manifesto which attracted considerable attention. The 
 revolutionary president protested against General Otis signing himself 
 military governor of the Philippine islands. He declared he had never 
 agreed at Singapore, ITongkong or elsewhere to recognize the sover- 
 eignty of the Americans here and insists that he re- 
 turned to the Philippines on an American ship solely 
 
 to conquer the Spaniards and to win independence. A REPLY. 
 
 He insisted that both his proclamations of May 24 and 
 
 June 12 stated this fact officially, and he claimed that Major-General
 
 124 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 
 
 Merritt confirmed this by a proclamation several days before the Span- 
 iards capitulated, stating clearly and definitely that the American 
 forces came to overthrow the Spanish government and liberate the 
 Filipinos. 
 
 The revolutionary leader then called upon all his followers to work 
 together with force and assured them he was convinced that they would 
 obtain absolute independence, urging them never to return "from the 
 glorious road" on which they have "already so far advanced." 
 
 While militarjr affairs were in this strained condition, a new 
 Filipino cabinet was formed, composed as follows: 
 
 President of the cabinet and minister of foreign affairs, Mabini. 
 
 Minister of the interior, Teedoro Sandico, a civil engineer, educated 
 in England and Belgium and taken to Manila from Hongkong by Rear- 
 Admiral Dewey. 
 
 Minister of war, Gen. Baldoinero Aguinaldo, a cousin of Aguinaldo 
 and a leader of the insurrection from the beginning. He is a large land- 
 owner of Cavite. 
 
 Minister of finance, General Trias, a close ally of Aguinaldo. 
 
 Minister of public works, Gregorico Gonzaga, a lawyer, until re- 
 cently the Filipino agent at Hongkong and formerly Spanish attorney- 
 general in the Visayas. 
 
 The cabinet was homogeneous, every member being pledged to re- 
 sist the American military occupation of the Philippines. 
 
 Mabini claimed recognition of the independence of the Philippine 
 islands and would not consent to the release of the Spanish prisoners, 
 but was willing to come to an understanding with the Americans, "as 
 allies," for the surrender of the Spanish military and civil officers and 
 others on the following conditions: 
 
 "The negotiations to be opened formally between Spain a 
 national Filipino government, Spain nominating a delegate t< 
 
 and the 
 to treat 
 
 X < J ' A fj <. J 
 
 therewith. 
 
 "Exchange of prisoners and Spain to repatriate, firstly, all the Fili- 
 pinos held prisoners; secondly, all prisoners of war condemned as trait- 
 ors, revolters or deserters, and Spain to grant amnesty to all Filipinos 
 and Spaniards accused of conspiracy in the insurrection. 
 
 "Spain to defray all the expenses of repatriating the Filipinos and 
 also the cost of maintaining and repatriating the Spanish prisoners 
 held by the Filipinos.
 
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 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 129 
 
 "Friars taken prisoners will not be included in the exchange, see- 
 ing that they acted as papal agents during the war; but their surrender 
 would be made on the condition, firstly, that the CONDITIONS 
 apostolic delegate will ask their liberty in the name 
 of the pope; secondly, that all bulls and pontifical de- o 7 
 crees granting special privileges to the religious or- 
 ders be revoked; thirdl}-, that all rites of the secular clergy be re- 
 spected; fourthly, that no friar hold any parish, cathedral, episcopate 
 or diocesan preferments; fifthly, that all such preferments be held by 
 native or naturalized Filipino clergy, and, sixthly, that rules for the elec- 
 tion of bishops be fixed." 
 
 Conditions around Iloilo became more critical. The streets were 
 barricaded and many buildings prepared for defense in the event of 
 attack. The insurgents threatened to destroy the whole business 
 quarter of the city at the first shot of bombardment by the Amer- 
 icans. The banks sent their funds aboard ships in the harbor. Presi- 
 dent McKinley's proclamation had to be typewritten aboard ship, as 
 the printers on shore declined to do the work, and when the text 
 of the proclamation was read to them they ridiculed the notion that 
 conciliation was possible. 
 
 Senor Agoncillo, the Filipino representative in Washington, had 
 made repeated efforts to obtain diplomatic recognition from the Presi- 
 dent and the secretary of state, always without success. They had re- 
 ceived him personally and had listened to his presentation of affairs, 
 but had given him no official recognition whatever. In his communi- 
 cation of January 24 to the secretary of state, Senor Don Felipe Agno- 
 cillo called attention to the fact that on January 11 he addressed a letter 
 to him upon the question of recognition, forwarding with it a memoran- 
 dum demonstrating that according to all American precedents the Phil- 
 ippine republic was entitled to recognition, and in the same letter in- 
 vited the attention of the secretary to the present strained conditions 
 at Manila, where overzeal on either side might create a condition re- 
 sulting in grievous loss of life and urging the neces- 
 
 sitv of an early and frank communication between SEEKIXG ^COG- 
 NITION IN 
 
 the representatives of the two countries. He further WASHINGTON. 
 called attention to the fact that since his letter was 
 written the very circumstances he feared have brought the two coun- 
 tries to the edge of war.
 
 130 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 
 
 Referring to the continual movement of ships and troops to the 
 Philippines, Agoncillo says he is unable to conceive of any reason why 
 the army and navy of the United States, lately employed against a 
 common enemy, should be turned against America's recent associate. 
 
 The United States, he says, has no active enemy in the orient, hav- 
 ing proclaimed an armistice with Spain. It is true, he continues, that 
 Spain has undertaken to convey to the United States its alleged claim 
 against the Philippines, a claim which Spain was not capable of en- 
 forcing and which never found its origin in the consent of the people 
 of those islands. He inquires: "Are my government and people to be 
 left to suppose that it is because of some desire on the part of the 
 American government to enforce against its late associate this ex- 
 ploded claim that the United States is massing its forces at the late 
 capital of the Philippine islands?" 
 
 He is sure the secretary of state will appreciate, in view of the 
 circumstances detailed, the quieting, reassuring effect upon the minds 
 of his countrymen to result from a disclaimer upon the part of the 
 American government of any intention to attack their liberties and in- 
 dependence. 
 
 But by this time there were two delegations of Filipinos in Wash- 
 ington. One was that headed by Agoncillo, representing Aguinaldo 
 and the insurgents; the other, wealthy merchants, also Filipinos, who 
 were opposed to Aguinaldo and regarded him as an adventurer. Presi- 
 dent McKinley decided upon the appointment of a commission to visit 
 the Philippine islands and confer with the leading people, both Span- 
 iards and insurgents, concerning the organization of a government. 
 He believed it would be taking great risks for Congress or himself or 
 anybody to attempt to frame a government for the Filipinos without 
 knowing thoroughly the sentiments and the requirements of the peo- 
 ple and the conditions in which they are situated. Although he prob- 
 ably knew as much on this subject as any man who 
 
 OF 1 
 
 PESIDENT has n0t P ersonall y visited the archipelago, he did not 
 
 McKlXLEY. f ee * competent to make any recommendations. He 
 
 believed that we should go very slowly. He wanted 
 
 also to formally assure the Filipinos of the friendly intentions of the 
 
 United States. He wanted them to understand that the purpose of this
 
 COMPLICATIONS WITH THE INSURGENTS. 131 
 
 government is to give them as large a share of self-government as the 
 circumstances will justify, and he would like to have the views of the 
 people of importance, the intelligent classes, the property-owners and 
 taxpayers as to the form of government most suitable. 
 
 This commission was composed of Admiral Dewey, General Otis, 
 Colonel Charles Denby of Evansville, Ind., who was for thirteen years 
 minister to China; President Schurmann of Cornell University and 
 Professor Dean C. Worcester of Michigan University, Ann Arbor. The 
 latter is the author of an exhaustive and valuable scientific work on 
 the Philippine islands, drawn from information which he gained in 
 scientific exploration and study in the archipelago through a period of 
 nearly three years. 
 
 Native papers and insurgent leaders gave little credit to the ap- 
 pointment of the commission, claiming that it was but a ruse of the 
 Americans to gain time and strengthen their position. 
 
 This was the state of affairs at the end of January, 1899, when 
 American men-of-war and American soldiers were being sent as rapidly 
 as practicable to add to the forces already in the far-away islands of 
 the east.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 
 
 Value of Personal Recollections and Impressions Stories Told by Correspondents 
 and Artists in the Philippines Manila in the Early Days of the American 
 Occupation Americans, Insurgents and Spanish Soldiers and Officers Friction 
 Begins Manila Enjoys a Boom Songs of the Philippines Soldiers Learning 
 Spanish First English Paper in Manila Stories of Sailors and Soldiers. 
 
 CASUAL impressions and memories of life in strange countries are 
 always of interest, for they are likely to touch upon the more 
 ordinary and personal things which concern all people. The 
 facts of science, politics and commerce are of highest importance, but 
 they become more readable when mixed with tales of the lighter things 
 of life. 
 
 Into the far-away islands of the east thousands of young Amer- 
 icans have journeyed within the last few months, selected from every 
 walk of life, to do the duties of soldiers and sailors. To their friends 
 and families the}' have written letters filled with anecdotes and im- 
 pressions of the things they saw. Some have told of battles on land 
 and sea, some of life in camp, some of peculiar habits and customs of 
 the natives, but nearly all are alike interesting. 
 
 John T. McCutcheou, the artist-correspondent, accompanied Ad- 
 miral Dewe}' from Hongkong to Manila, saw the battle of Manila bay 
 from the deck of one of the American vessels, watched the progress of 
 events till the army came, saw the capture of the city and then re- 
 mained with army and navy to watch the end of Spanish rule in the 
 Philippines, lie witnessed all the events and the life 
 GRAPHIC STORIES ()f ^^ c . ain | )a ]o n f rom a mO st advantageous point 
 
 O K 
 
 of view. His stories of Manila in the davs of change 
 
 from Spanish to American rule are exceedingly 
 interest ing. They are of special value because they outline tin 1 
 life of the city during the early days of American occupation, and
 
 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 133 
 
 tell the same things that were seen by the soldiers and sailors them- 
 selves. It is quite worth while to quote a succession of Mr. Mc- 
 Cuteheon's letters, graphically written by one who saw with the eye 
 of an artist the salient and picturesque features of the events that 
 passed before him. Some of the paragraphs will show by w r hat they 
 relate that they were written several mouths ago, but they are none 
 the less interesting on that account and dates are not essential for 
 the present purpose: 
 
 "Manila has been in a strange condition since the capitulation. 
 Military rule of course prevails and the streets in all quarters are pa- 
 trolled by big, rough-looking soldiers in brown. 
 
 "Down in the business district where the great Escolta runs, with 
 its modern shops and its throngs of people, the scene is marvelously 
 interesting. Shops which have been closed since the 
 1st of May have now hurriedly opened to gather in 
 the floods of money being spent by the 12,000 new ON DUTY. 
 arrivals in the town, and the new arrivals are busy 
 buying everything in sight. Soldiers march back and forth in the Es- 
 colta, Spanish soldiers and insurgents crowd along the narrow side- 
 walks, the carriages of the aristocracy are beginning to venture out and 
 Spanish ladies who for weeks have sought security in the walled city 
 are riding back and forth. American officers, German sailors, Filipinos, 
 Chinese, Malays, Japanese and English sailors; officers from Admiral 
 Dewey's fleet, Spanish officers neat and well groomed, hungry and 
 emaciated Spanish privates, carriages and carromattas and coolies, all 
 drifting along this great business artery of Manila, combine to form 
 a kaleidoscopic picture which can hardly be equaled in its cosmopolitan 
 character anywhere in the world. 
 
 "The Spanish officers by virtue of the conditions of the surrender 
 retain their sidearms, but the insurgents entering the city are compelled 
 to leave all arms with the guards at the outposts, for the uncertain atti- 
 tude of the latter makes it extremely problematical what they may be 
 meditating. The Spaniards, particularly the officers and civil officials, 
 are afraid as death of the insurgents, for they know well that there are 
 many old scores to be settled and they fear assassination or assault un- 
 less under the immediate protection of the American troops. Conse-
 
 134 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 
 
 quently the Spaniards do not venture far from the walled city or the 
 crowded business districts in Binondo, just across the Pasig river. The 
 cafes are always jammed and in the big Alhambra, which reaches from 
 the avenue to the river, the scores of little tables are nearly always 
 filled with the floating population of Manila. 
 
 "Among the soldiers and sailors there is a prevailing goodfellowship 
 that reaches far over any political differences which may separate 
 them. Spanish officers and American officers sit together drinking 
 and smoking and talking. Big, rough, healthy-looking soldier boys 
 from the States and thin, hungry-looking Spanish privates fraternize 
 with such good feeling and spirit that it is hard to think that ten days 
 ago, perhaps, each was crouching behind earthen breastworks 1,000 
 yards apart, the one with a Mauser, the other a Springfield, trying to 
 pick each other off. German sailors and American soldiers are as 
 brotherly as if weeks and weeks were not spent distrusting one another. 
 
 "Immediately after the army of occupation settled down in Manila 
 
 hundreds of chuck-a-luck games sprung up on the sidewalks and in the 
 
 little shops throughout the town. Every one of these was crowded 
 
 with natives, Chinese and American soldiers. They 
 
 GAMBLING gave interest and excitement to the general life of the 
 AND SUPPRESSED. street, but General Mac Arthur started out on a wild 
 career of reform a few days ago and they were all sup- 
 pressed. Several dozen offenders were dragged before Colonel Jewett, 
 the judge advocate, and given ten days' work on the streets. 
 
 "In spite of all the varied character of the people in the city, there 
 is comparatively little disorder. The soldiers at first fell by the way- 
 side in large numbers from the results of the native gin, but the scenes 
 of good-natured intoxication that were so common at first are growing 
 fewer. The first day the German ships granted 'shore liberty to the 
 crews the streets were filled with reeling, dizzy Teuton tars, but the 
 best of feeling and order prevailed. Several little clashes occurred be- 
 tween the insurgents and Spaniards, and one case of shooting has been 
 reported. An insurgent officer, wearing his shoulder-straps, encoun- 
 tered a Spanish officer, who attempted to tear the straps off. A strug- 
 gle resulted, in which the Spaniard shot the insurgent through the leg. 
 The Spaniard was arrested.
 
 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 135 
 
 "During these first few days of military occupation every effort has 
 been made by the provost marshal, General MacArthur and his depu- 
 ties, Colonel Smith and Colonel Ovenshine, properly to patrol and pro- 
 tect property, but the district to be guarded is so extensive that the 
 cases of pillage that have happened could hardly have been prevented, 
 The officers and soldiers have taken possession of all the public and 
 official residences for headquarters and barracks. Many beautiful pri- 
 vate residences, which have long been unoccupied because of their 
 owners fleeing within the walled city, have been impressed, but in these 
 cases a reasonable rental has been paid. General Merritt at once took 
 possession of the governor-general's official palace or capitol building 
 within the walled city as the headquarters of himself and staff. The 
 country palace of the Spanish governor at Malacanan was first occu- 
 pied by the officers of the 1st California regiment, but General Merritt 
 later established his official residence there. The 1st California then 
 transferred to the admiral's palace in the same fashionable suburbs, but 
 General Greene and his staff, who were temporarily quartered at the 
 Hotel de Oriente, moved out and supplanted the 1st Californians, who 
 then moved into the palace of one of the secretaries, which adjoins the 
 governor's palace. This is perhaps more desirable than either of the 
 others, but the 1st was unfortunate, for General Merritt transferred the 
 military command to General Otis, who took possession of the palace 
 in the walled city, and General Merritt moved his offices and official 
 headquarters out into the secretary's palace. 
 
 "General Anderson, between whom and General Merritt there has 
 been a well-defined breach of many years' standing, is established over 
 in Cavite w r ith a handful of men. This is rather a humiliating detail 
 for Anderson, and has caused a good deal of quiet talk in army circles. 
 The Cavite detail was considered the least desirable of any of the posts 
 and the least important, but subsequent events have advanced it to a 
 place of considerable prominence, since the insurgents have come to be 
 regarded as a doubtful factor. 
 
 "The relations between the Americans and insurgents are thought 
 to be considerably strained and the situation is very delicate. Nothing 
 can be determined by interviewing Aguinaldo, who is hard to see, and 
 who says nothing when he talks. In the number of interviews w T hich
 
 136 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 
 
 I have had with him he has never said anything- which had the 
 
 slightest value. On one occasion he did give the distribution and 
 
 strength of his different troops, but this information 
 
 was so manifestly wrong that it was useless. In the 
 
 A MAJi 
 
 OF SILENCE. Aspect of keeping his own affairs and the move- 
 ments of his troops and his sentiments regarding 
 the Americans strictly to himself, Aguinaldo is a conspicuous suc- 
 cess. 
 
 "It is well known that the insurgents have been sullen for some 
 time. General Merritt paid no attention to them when he came, and 
 Aguinaldo in turn ignored the general. There has never been any co- 
 operation between the two forces. The insurgents by carrying on a 
 successful guerrilla warfare have accomplished great results. They 
 have completely taken all the {Spanish outlying positions, one by one, 
 and captured several thousand half-hearted, unpaid, discouraged Span- 
 ish soldiers. Gradually Aguinaldo pressed the Spaniards up to the very 
 limits of the city. He took the water-works and cut off the water sup- 
 ply. There is no denying that he accomplished a -valuable service in his 
 campaign against the Spaniards. He could not have done it, of course, 
 had not the American fleet blockaded the port and cut off supplies and 
 re-enforcements, but he got the Spaniards corralled and limited the 
 fighting zone to a comparatively small area. With all these successes 
 the insurgents got the impression that they were a grand army, and 
 each week saw the self-esteem of the Filipinos grow greater and greater. 
 Instead of wanting an American protectorate, they wanted absolute in- 
 dependence. 
 
 "When, a little later, a series of rumors began an industrious 
 circulation to the effect that Germany was preparing to recognize the 
 belligerency of the Philippine insurrectionists it was considered that a 
 formidable breach was coming between the Americans and Filipinos. 
 The next chapter relates to a spirited correspondence between General 
 Anderson and General Aguinaldo, in which the latter said that the 
 Filipinos were acting under the belief (hat the Americans were fighting 
 the Spaniards in order (o give the islands to the natives, just as Cuba was 
 being freed for the Cubans. Anderson, who had previously in an out- 
 burst of friendliness, stated to Aguinaldo that America, had been a great 
 nation for 122 years and had never taken a colony, and that Aguinaldo
 
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 could infer from that what the American attitude would be, now said 
 that the disposition of the islands depended on Washington. Immedi- 
 ately Aguinaldo suspected that the Americans were preparing to retain 
 the Philippines and he at once made overtures to the Spanish governor- 
 general to persuade the latter to surrender the city of Manila to the 
 insurgents, thus forestalling the Americans. One of Aguinaldo's aids, 
 Legardo, was intrusted w r ith the mission of communicating with the 
 governor-general, but when Legardo reached Manila he deserted to the 
 Spaniards and negotiations practically ceased. Then Aguinaldo began 
 a most aggressive campaign, looking to the capture of the city by his 
 forces. He was unsuccessful, and doubtless never would have been 
 successful, considering the strength of the Spanish positions. 
 
 "When the Americans entered the city the insurgents swarmed in 
 after them, looting and pillaging. They established armed barracks 
 on the Calle Real in Malate and extensive headquarters in the Calle 
 Observatio. The chief w T ork of the Americans began with the pres- 
 ence of the insurgents. The Americans and Spanish were practically 
 allied to prevent the insurgents getting into the city. Then came an 
 order prohibiting insurgents entering the city armed, and a force of 
 about 300 were disarmed by the Americans. This aroused considerable 
 feeling, and it was noticed that Aguinaldo, who still had possession of 
 the water works, refused to let the water in the cit} 7 . There then fol- 
 lowed a long parley of negotiation, in which Aguinaldo demonstrated 
 that his rights as governor-general were just about 
 the same as those of General Merritt. The latter had AGUIXALDO 
 
 A!M) THE 
 
 the city, but the former had the country. It must have WATER WORKS. 
 been rather humiliating for the American governor to 
 find himself in a position where he could not direct affairs a half-mile 
 beyond the city limits. 
 
 "In securing the water works, a number of Aguinaldo's demands 
 had to be satisfied. lie sent in several conditions which had to be ful- 
 filled. Among them was that his troops should have control and sur- 
 veillance of the water works, and as Jong as the Americans remained 
 the water should be supplied through his indulgence, but as soon as the 
 Americans left, if the islands were to be relinquished or given back to 
 Spain, he wanted to be in a condition to renew the conflict against the
 
 140 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 
 
 Spanish with the same advantages as he had before the Americans 
 came into the city. For the same reason he demanded that the troops 
 be allowed to retain their arms until it was definitely decided that the 
 Spanish had forever and beyond doubt been banished from control of 
 the Philippines. He also wanted a specified number of convents within 
 the city to quarter his troops in, he wanted the Spanish police whom 
 Merritt had retained relieved from duty, and he wanted definite lines 
 established within which the Americans were to control and beyond 
 which he was to control. He demanded that the officers be allowed 
 to wear their sidearms when entering the city, that he himself be given 
 the governor-general's summer palace at Malacanan, now occupied by 
 General Merritt, and that all the products of Filipino labor be allowed 
 to leave the islands free of duty. 
 
 "Some of these demands were preposterous, but some were reason- 
 able and logical. He had a right to ask the retention of his arms as 
 long as the ultimate position of the islands was in doubt, so that if the 
 Spaniards ever regain control he will be prepared to renew his fight. 
 The result of his other conditions is in doubt. It is merely known that 
 outside Manila Aguinaldo's troops are supreme, and that in some quar- 
 ters Americans are prohibited from going. He also has two strong 
 barracks within the city limits, with big bodies of armed troops. Within 
 a mile of General MacArthur's headquarters it is estimated that there 
 are at least 4,000 armed Filipinos. He also retains control of the water 
 works, but allows them to be operated. He has not been given a palace 
 in the city, and it is not thought that his products will be exempt from 
 duty. The Guardia Civil, which is the local constabulary, composed 
 of men who have served at least eight years in the Spanish army and 
 are past masters of every form of corruption and extortion which their 
 long post-graduate course has taught and fitted them for, are relieved 
 and Americans assigned to take their places. So the matter rests, and 
 will probably remain this way until the disposition of the islands is 
 determined." 
 
 Under the American military regime, Manila at night is very- dull. 
 After 10 o'clock the city is dead, and only the sentries are seen on 
 the streets. There is no theater here, and it has been several months 
 since the opera has been on. The soldiers are not allowed out of
 
 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 141 
 
 quarters after 10 o'clock unless on duty; the saloons are closed and 
 the night life of Manila is behind closed doors. It is almost impos- 
 sible to imagine a great city of 300,000 being as quiet 
 as Manila is at night. The Spaniards retire to their C OF MANILA 
 homes and the Americans to their barracks. The few AT J^^HT. 
 foreign residents who spend their evenings at the 
 clubs return home long before the small hours. Most people here go to 
 bed early because nearly all the city's business is done in the forenoon, 
 and people get up pretty early to do it. At noon all the stores are closed 
 for two hours, and in the afternoon those who can do so seek refuge 
 from the sun beneath the spreading balconies of their homes and do 
 not appear in the Escolta unless it is necessary. And if it is necessary 
 they put it off until to-morrow. 
 
 The American soldiers are keeping up a regular routine of drill- 
 ing. In the evening at about G o'clock the districts of the city and 
 suburbs are enlivened by the sound of martial music, the shuffle of 
 measured footsteps and the rattle of arms. Hundreds of natives and 
 Spaniards usually gather to watch these daily drills, which are in a 
 way exhibition drills, and they doubtless wonder at a military display 
 which the Spanish predecessors evidently never indulged in. It does 
 an American citizen good to see how superior in physique and how 
 strong in healthful development the soldiers of his country are. They 
 are usually so much taller than the Spanish and insurgent soldiers 
 that there is no comparison. The uniforms worn by the Americans 
 are somewhat ugly and unmilitary looking, but there is always such a 
 suggestion of health and strength about them that the offense to 
 esthetic ideas of beauty is not noticed. The blue shirts and rough 
 brown breeches and slouch hats give them the appearance of stage 
 cowboys or frontiersmen. Sometimes in the evening there are com- 
 panies of soldiers drilling on the Luuetta, and at these times the sides 
 of the parade ground are crowded. Over in the bandstand a couple of 
 Oregon soldiers occasionally give exhibitions of boxing. The crowd 
 that throngs around the arena during these displays of manly strength 
 and cleverness of sparring are always big and very appreciative, al- 
 though the people here usually marvel at anything that involves volun- 
 tarv exertion.
 
 142 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 
 
 Erly in October Captain Linn of the commissary department was 
 ordered home and left on the transport Peru. There are a number 
 of circumstances connected with the case, leading to his departure, 
 that are exciting a good deal of discussion here. 
 
 The story, briefly, is this: 
 
 When the city was taken it became necessary to invoice all public 
 
 41 
 
 property. This included church property. Colonel Braiuerd, acting 
 under General Otis' authority, detailed Captain Linn to visit the eccle- 
 siastical institutions and make a list of all the valuable articles used 
 in the churches. This he started to do, but in one church he was denied 
 entrance to a certain room by the priests. lie explained as delicately 
 as possible that he would have to be admitted in order to follow out 
 his instructions. The fact that several articles of silver belonging to 
 the church service were missing convinced him that they were being 
 concealed, or else were within the room to which 
 COMPLICATIONS a( i m i ss i on was denied. The priests still refused to 
 
 CHURCH. open the door, saying that it would be sacrilegious 
 for him to enter. They suggested that he go to an- 
 other door leading from the street, and in that way gain admission 
 to the rest of the building, but in doing this he would have to skip 
 the particular room he wished to enter. Captain Linn then sent for 
 instructions from Colonel Brainerd, who sent a corporal's guard. On 
 their arrival the priests opened the door. Several pieces of silver were 
 found and inventoried, and Captain Linn then went on to the next 
 church. lie was treated with courtesy. In some of the convents he 
 would examine two or three of the rooms of the sisters, note the con- 
 tents, and accept the statement of the mother superior that the rest 
 of the rooms were similarly furnished. 
 
 In a very short time a flood of protests came in upon General Otis 
 regarding Captain Linn's behavior in the church mentioned. Chaplain 
 Doherty, who was brought here by General Merritt, and who is a 
 friend of the archbishop of Manila, wrote to General Otis a long and 
 bitter letter. There were many things in it which displeased General 
 Otis, and Chaplain Doherty was sent home. This only increased the 
 protests that came to General Otis, until at last he ordered Captain 
 Linn to return to America and report to Washington. This order was
 
 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES Ob' MANILA. 143 
 
 the first intimatioii Captain Linn had that the incident wa even under 
 discussion. He naturally feels hurt that no opportunity was given 
 him to offer his side of the story, but he takes with him to Washing- 
 ton personal letters from the mother superiors of the two convents he 
 visited, which are high tributes to his courtesy and consideration. He 
 feels that he, last of all men, should be accused of acting discourte- 
 ously toward a Catholic institution. He was educated in Notre Dame 
 university, and was graduated from that celebrated Catholic school. 
 His sister is a Catholic, and his newspaper in W T abash, Ind., has always 
 been marked in its friendly relations with the Catholic church. 
 
 There is a comradeship between soldiers which bridges all petty dif- 
 ficulties involving nations. It is a familiar sight to see* American and 
 Spanish soldiers fraternizing in the most friendly way. At the gates 
 of the walled city, where there are guards constantly posted, a little 
 group of Spanish soldiers, who have nothing much to do but kill time, 
 may nearly always be found. The American soldiers are trying to 
 speak Spanish and the Spaniards are trying to help them out, to the 
 great amusement of both. Between the insurgents and Spaniards 
 there is no interchange of friendliness, for each despises the other, 
 and takes no pains to conceal the fact. 
 
 Homesickness is the great and almost unanimous complaint. It 
 is sweeping like a scourge from one end of the army to the other, 
 sparing none. Officers and soldiers have it with equal force, and it 
 is thought that nothing will cure them except the 
 sight of the Golden Gate and perhaps a glimpse of WI1E> T " 
 certain good American girls waiting to meet them BECAME HOMESICK. 
 and welcome them home. The realization has come 
 to all with terrific force that they are missing the pumpkin-pie season, 
 and the thought is usually followed by a relapse. In addition to this 
 distressing reflection conies the prospect of Thanksgiving day with 
 no cranberry sauce and no football games. 
 
 When all the Americans who are here or who have been in the 
 campaign in the Philippines reach home they will have carloads of 
 souvenirs to show their friends. Nearly everybody is picking up little 
 mementos of the war. The majority run to small trinkets, such as 
 empty cartridge shells, flattened bullets and other things easily car-
 
 144 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 
 
 ried, but a few have conducted their looting with Napoleonic vigor. 
 These past masters of pillaging will start home with chests and boxes 
 packed with beautiful and wonderful things. The great prize that 
 every one seeks to obtain is a genuine Spanish flag which has been in 
 use. There have been very few of these obtainable. Spanish swords 
 are also eagerly sought. Then come Mauser rifles, cap ribbons, pieces 
 of shells, chairs, Spanish crests, native knives and weapons, Spanish 
 stationery, maps, books, pictures, soldiers' buttons and caps, paper 
 weights, inkstands, marble tiles, medals, decorations and scores of 
 other things. In some cases the looters have carried their plundering 
 propensities into the churches, but these instances, fortunately, are 
 very few. 
 
 Among the things which will be most interesting to the people 
 at home are the native weapons and the native women's wonderful 
 needlework. There is a cloth here which is manufactured of pineapple 
 fiber, and is called pina cloth. The texture is as delicate as a spider's 
 web and in the hands of the women is fashioned into most wonderful 
 designs. I have seen small handkerchiefs which cost |100 apiece 
 and lace sleeves which run as high as $200 apiece. When a Philip- 
 pine lady of the better class gets married she sometimes wears as her 
 wedding dress a costume of native manufacture that reaches in value 
 up into four figures. It takes months to make a handkerchief or a 
 sleeve or a neckerchief, so microscopic and delicate is the fabric. Con- 
 sidering the costliness of the finer kind of native needlework, it is 
 hardly probable that the soldiers will take home many trunkfuls for 
 exhibition purposes. 
 
 The great work of Americanizing Manila, is going bravely on. It 
 
 is interesting to see how the humble native is adapting himself to the 
 
 customs of his conquerors. Already the signs in the 
 
 AMERICANIZING stm>ts aro beiiii? painted in English, several Ainer- 
 
 1'KOCESS *". l ' 
 
 E\ MVMLV 1(>an l )a l )ors ar(1 m the enthusiasm of infancy, every 
 
 third house sells American beer, and the Escolta in 
 the busy morning hours, when it is booming with traffic, has such an 
 American activity that one forgets he is so far awny from home. The 
 Spanish business houses are printing their advertisements in English, 
 and that sterling American institution, pie, was among the first
 
 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 
 
 signs that Manila was being brought under Anglo-Saxon influence. 
 
 In the streets near the barracks of the soldiers the evidences of 
 invasion are most frequently seen. The Filipinos have been quick to 
 detect the opportunities of the occasion, and the number of drinking 
 places that have sprung up in the last few weeks makes Manila look 
 like a "boom town" in its first year. Dozens of little bars, each one 
 advertising the presence of American beverages, are now in active 
 operation wherever the soldiers are. The bill-poster, also, is busy, 
 and it will not take many months of American occupation to make 
 the beautiful Lunetta gay with big, noisy signboards, such as Chicago 
 has on the lake shore road north of Lincoln park. Even now every 
 fence has its poster advertising some new American industry calculated 
 to supply a long-felt want. Sandwich men bearing placards are also 
 seen here now, moving in long, solemn, single file through the principal 
 thoroughfares. 
 
 The martial fever is capturing all the children in town. Every 
 night, while the big regimental parades are wheeling and maneuver- 
 ing on the Plaza de Bagumbayan, the band playing, horses prancing, 
 and the Lunetta gay with throngs of carriages, the little side streets 
 have their evening drills in miniature. The juvenile Filipinos, armed 
 with bamboo sticks and ranging in age from about three to fourteen, 
 are marching up and down and right and left with as much serious 
 intent as the great battalions on the Plaza. Nearly every boy in town 
 knows the American bugle calls, and the "retreat" and "tattoo" are 
 whistled at all hours and places. 
 
 Baseball games are now a regular thing. A league has been 
 formed, and on three afternoons of the week, weather permitting, a 
 game is played out on the diamond of the Plaza de Bagumbayan. 
 Everything showy happens on that plaza, the sea front of which is 
 called the Lunetta. Great crowds always gather to watch the con- 
 tests, and the hurricane of cheers which greets a three-bagger at a 
 critical point is greater far than those cheers that greeted the planting 
 of the American flag in Manila. For a moment the blue-shirted man 
 at the bat is a greater hero than Admiral Dewey, and there have been 
 one or two games played at the termination of which the star players 
 were carried off in triumph on the shoulders of their admirers. The
 
 146 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MAN/LA. 
 
 Filipinos gather around the fringe of people at the edges of the dia- 
 mond and wonder what's happening. If the time ever comes when the 
 Filipinos appreciate and cheer the game America can claim them as 
 faithful allies and patriotic citizens. 
 
 An exhortation heard on the ball ground the other day illustrates 
 how the American soldiers are getting on with the Spanish language. 
 The coacher was talking, and what he said was something like this: 
 
 "Take a lead, take a lead, there off second get off the base hurry 
 up there you go take a lead go, go, go run, run, slide. Ah, muclio 
 bueno!" 
 
 The other day a funny thing happened to the Colorado regi- 
 ment. It was just after the regimental parade in the Plaza de Bagum- 
 baj-an and the troops were marching off the field. Up in a window 
 along the street stood an officer. As the Colorado boys came along 
 this officer began to discuss with a small Spanish boy in the street 
 the merits of the celebrated Rocky Ford watermelons of Colorado. The 
 effect was electrical. A broad grin swept along the 
 regiment, .for everybody who has ever passed through 
 WATERMELONS. Colorado knows what delicious watermelons come 
 from Rocky Ford, and the thought of watermelons 
 to the Colorado boys was deadly to discipline. The regular forma- 
 tion became irregular, soldiers were turning around to hear more of 
 the conversation, and it seemed that there was imminent danger of 
 the whole line being broken up. To them it was like sitting out in 
 the middle of an endless desert reading about good things to drink; 
 but the officer in the window kept up his tantalizing discussions with 
 the small Spanish boy, who had no idea what he was talking about. 
 
 "Rock}- Ford watermelons in las estado Colorado, North America, 
 inucho bueno. Grande watermelons, fruta de agua, mucho dulce." 
 
 As each company passed the officer worked in the mention of 
 Rocky Ford watermelons, and each company became demoralized. 
 When last seen the troops as they straggled down the street were look- 
 ing back laughing, with their ranks and rifles in an outrageous state 
 of irregularity. 
 
 The same officer suffered for several days with blistered feet. This 
 complaint has been a very common one here, a great many of the
 
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 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 151 
 
 soldiers having suffered from it. It eomes from the heat and moisture, 
 and in many cases it is exceedingly painful and hard to cure. After 
 a week of suffering and a week of experimenting with his own reme- 
 dies, he consulted one of the army surgeons and was put under a rigor- 
 ous treatment. Another week passed, with no improvement. At last 
 he decided to have one foot treated by a Spanish doctor and the other 
 by an American doctor. The remedies were very different. In less 
 than a week the Spanish foot was cured entirely, while the American 
 foot was still as sore as ever. He then applied the Spanish treatment 
 to the American foot, with the result that the latter is getting on splen- 
 didly and promises soon to be all right. 
 
 A detachment of the Salvation Army has arrived and is occupying 
 a tent near the Puerto de Espana. A good many Americans are here 
 watching chances for investment. One firm has bought up all the 
 prominent saloons in town and is simply coining money. There is a 
 great deal of drunkenness, and the men in this condition are so demon- 
 strative that the Spanish ladies dread driving on the Escolta. All 
 business houses are booming and prices have gone up. So far as trade 
 is concerned a wave of prosperity is making its headquarters in Manila 
 just at present. 
 
 Admiral Montojo has left Manila for Spain to appear before a 
 court-martial and tell of his defeat. Before he left he wrote to Admiral 
 Dewey asking that the latter give him a testimonial for braver}*. This 
 the American Admiral cheerfully did, and when Montojo is arraigned 
 for cowardice before the dons in Madrid lie can pull out a document 
 duly signed by Admiral Dewey, saying that Mr. Mon- 
 tojo did the best he could under the circumstances. 
 
 rOK 
 
 j 
 
 Along about Christmas there will be thousands HOME FOLKS. 
 of packages and parcels arriving in the United States 
 from Manila. The soldiers out here are thronging the postoffice with 
 all sorts of presents for the folks at home. Along the Escolta are 
 many signs advertising Christmas goods, and the boys are buying 
 everything that will go through the mails. Photographs, souvenir 
 books, souvenir spoons, Mauser bullets made into hat pins and watch 
 charms, Christmas cards, little pieces of jewelry, pina-cloth handker- 
 chiefs, jusi fabrics and a hundred other different kinds of things avail-
 
 152 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 
 
 able in Manila are being sent. It is a popular fad to be photographed 
 in uniform, with a rifle in a threatening position. Many of the men 
 have grown military mustaches and goatees, and look like dashing 
 soldiers, but they shave off the whiskers after being photographed. 
 
 In taking possession of the islands in Pacific and Asiatic waters 
 the United States ha acquired some new national airs and songs to 
 add to its limited repertory. The llawaiians have had a national hymn 
 of their own, and in addition thereto must be counted the large num- 
 ber of native songs which are indigenous to the islands. The Filipinos 
 have a national march, which was written by Antonio Comillas, and 
 is the tune which the insurgents have used to inspire them in their 
 battles against the Spanish rulers. The melody is as simple as that 
 of "Yankee Doodle," but it has plenty of animation and swing, and the 
 change of key in the refrain gives it variety. Probably it has served 
 the Filipinos' purposes well enough, and if the islands are to be 
 annexed will make another patriotic anthem for the United States. 
 
 The new march does not appear to have any racial character, but 
 no one tune could even suggest all the various kinds of music which 
 the Philippine peoples must possess. The specimens of native Asiatic 
 music which were displayed at the World's Fair were not of a kind 
 to tempt civilized composers as the raw material out of which to make 
 national hymns. The "Philippine National March" is the tune only of 
 the insurgents and of those of the Filipinos who have come under the 
 influence of Spanish civilization far enough to have adopted the Euro- 
 pean system of notation. If the dominant and intelligent element in 
 Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao continues to grow and acquires control 
 of the archipelago, however, the march may have to be accepted as 
 the representative tune for all the islanders. 
 
 Some of the American soldiers at Manila, however, have not been 
 content to pass their time listening to the music of other people. A 
 "Souvenir Song Book," published in Manila, contains twenty-five 
 original songs and poems written by members of the 
 Eighth army corps. The authors are men of the 
 
 SOLDIERS. regular and volunteer regiments of all branches of 
 the service. The songs are strongly suggestive of the 
 tedium of the soldier's life in far-away camps and of the straits to
 
 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OP' MANILA. 153 
 
 which he is reduced for amusement. It may be noted, also, as a unique 
 characteristic of the American army that its men should have either 
 the inclination or the ability to amuse themselves in just this way. 
 The verses are often rough and imperfect, but they indicate a liberal 
 acquaintance with the kind of verse which passes current in popular 
 songs and no little knack of imitation. The compilation begins with 
 a song by Charles C. Webster of the Astor battery, who has written 
 new words to the popular college air of the "Prodigal Son." Here 
 are some of the stanzas in which he describes the achievement of 
 "Dewey, the King of the Sea": 
 
 "A torpedo boat came out with a dash, 
 
 It did, it did. 
 It started for Dewey like a flash, 
 
 It did, it did. 
 
 Not a man at his post was seen to flinch. 
 The commander gave the button a pinch, 
 Let go his twelve-pounders oh, what a cinch! 
 
 Sang Dewey, the king of the seas. (Repeat.) 
 
 "All this took place on the first of May, 
 
 It did, it did. 
 Troops in ships were hurried away, 
 
 They were, they were. 
 Re-enforced by batteries H and K, 
 John Astor's battery sailed away, 
 And they hurried them on to Manila bay, 
 
 Sang Dewey, the king of the seas. 
 
 "Now, the four expeditions came in safe and sound, 
 
 They did, they did. 
 Intrenchments the Spaniards were planting around, 
 
 They were, they were. 
 
 Since the thirteenth of August they're planting no more, 
 They've learned what they never knew before 
 Intrenchments can't stop the Eighth army corps, 
 
 Sang Dewey, the king of the seas." 
 
 The popularity of "A Hot Time in the Old Town To-Night" is 
 attested by Burt I). Carrier of the Thirteenth Minnesota volunteers, 
 who writes:
 
 154 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 
 
 "Come along, get you ready, for we're going to the war, 
 But it's nothing new to Minnesota, for she's been there before. 
 We're going to lick the Spaniards, who are anxious for a fight, 
 But for some unknown reason they keep quite out of sight. 
 
 CHORUS. 
 
 "Please, oh please, Mr. Spaniard, do not run, 
 For now that we aro started we are bound to have some fun, 
 And when we reach the Philippines we'll put you on the bum, 
 There'll be a hot time in Manila that night." 
 
 Sentiment and Parodies. 
 
 / 
 
 That the American Tommy Atkins has a sweetheart at home 
 there are several songs to show. George W. Moulton of the First 
 South Dakota writes: 
 
 "I am lying- in my tent, sweet Marie, 
 And my soul with rage is pent up in G, 
 
 Fcr I know almighty well 
 
 You have caught another fel, 
 And your thoughts no longer dwell, love, with me. 
 
 "When we kissed a last good-by tearfully, 
 You but worked a girlish guy off on me. 
 
 Oh, you sweet, bewitching jade, 
 
 What a clever game you've played, 
 For your tears were ready made, sweet Marie. 
 
 "When I donned the soldier blue, sweet Marie, 
 Like a picnic woodtick you stuck to me, 
 
 And the smile you used to wear 
 
 Was as full of gleaming glare 
 As a sunbeam on a tear, sweet Marie. 
 
 "How your cunning head you'd lay, lovingly 
 On my bosom, while you'd say things to me. 
 
 There you'd rast in loving pose, 
 
 Right beneath my very nose, 
 Swiping buttons off my clothes, sweet Marie." 
 
 Some of the verses are frankly sentimental in a bluff, boyish way, 
 like the poem by William II. Doyle of the First Montana regiment, who 
 writes eloquently of "A (Jirl with Dark-lied Hair" who was left behind.
 
 AMERICAN REMINISCENCES OF MANILA. 155 
 
 Others are merely versified "roasts" of the conditions inflicted upon a 
 soldier by camp life. A member of the Utah battery dedicates a poem 
 to "The Petrified Hardtack": 
 
 "There was hardtack from wars of the past generation, 
 Which remained unconsumed till this late Spanish war. 
 Tis rumored that some, which defied mastication, 
 Were marked 'civil war.' or the stamp 'B. C.' bore. 
 What a triumph this is for the skill of the baker. 
 Indestructible product, defying time's tooth, 
 But it could not resist the assaults of our grinders 
 The grinders we had in the days of our youth. 
 
 CHORUS. 
 
 "There was 1812 hardtack, 
 And '62 hardtack, 
 The old army hardtack we ate in our youth." 
 
 A few of the verses are concerned with descriptions of the soldier's 
 heroic achievements, but as a general thing the army poets refuse to 
 take themselves or their deeds seriouslv.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 A RAPID GLANCE AT THE ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 Means of Travel in the Philippines Primitive Methods of Communication Native 
 Sail Boats, Water Buffaloes and Coolies Number and Size of Islands in the 
 Archipelago How the Seasons Are Divided The Dreaded Typhoon The Cli- 
 mate of Manila How to Retain Health in the Philippines Fever, Malaria and 
 Other Diseases Earthquakes and Volcanoes Mountains and Lakes of the 
 Archipelago The Rivers and the Forests Vegetables, Fruits and Minerals 
 Industries of the Natives. 
 
 M 
 
 OST travelers who have visited the Philippines and most authors 
 who have written about them, have confined themselves in their 
 own journeys and for their sources of information to parts of the 
 islands that are quite as accessible as any Oriental city. Usually the 
 traveler's limit has been a visit to Manila and a few trips into the inte- 
 rior of Luzon. If the tourist extends his journey to Iloilo and Cebu, with 
 a few excursions into the country in the neighborhood of these cities, he 
 departs with complacent satisfaction and the feeling that he has pretty 
 well exhausted the sights of the archipelago. This, however, is far 
 from the truth. 
 
 There are more than eighty distinct tribes of the natives who form 
 the bulk of the eight million inhabitants of the island. They are 
 scattered over hundreds of islands, large and small, and wide travel 
 is necessary if one wishes really to know something of the country 
 and its people. It is true in the Philippines, as in every other country, 
 that the traveler who confines his observations to the cities and towns 
 will fail to gain intimate information and knowledge of the essential 
 characteristics of the whole people. In the Philippines, more than 
 most other places, it is necessary to turn one's back upon the cities and 
 towns and turning from the beaten path, push into the almost unex- 
 plored regions where the wild tribes are to be found. In the study of 
 these primitive peoples and in the wonders of the tropical forests one 
 
 1 50
 
 A RAPID GLANCE AT THE ARCHIPELAGO. 157 
 
 will find ample repayment for the risks and hardships he certainly will 
 be forced to undergo. 
 
 Among the islands, means of communication arc 4 limited and in 
 many instances primitive. Between the more important cities of the 
 group there are lines of Spanish mail and merchant steamers, which 
 afford tolerably frequent and even comfortable communication, but the 
 difficulties multiply when one attempts to visit the interior of the larger 
 and less explored islands or to reach ports where ves- 
 sels do not call. Native sailboats must be called into 
 
 MEA^SS OF 
 service and extreme discomfort sometimes undergone. TRAVEL. 
 
 The carriage roads, even in the vicinity of the larger 
 towns, are usually in bad condition, impassable in the rainy season, and 
 little improved in the dry. On many a path, called by courtesy a road, 
 one finds it impossible to travel even on horseback. Bridges are few and 
 fords frequently infested by man-eating crocodiles. Every traveler in 
 the Philippines has ultimately to employ the water buffalo or coolies 
 to carry himself and his baggage, or to w*alk, by choice, for greater 
 comfort. 
 
 The number of islands in the archipelago has been given all the 
 w r ay from six hundred to two thousand, a surprising variance of in- 
 formation which should be approximately accurate. The larger esti- 
 mate is extravagant unless the Carolines and Ladrone islands are in- 
 cluded in the count with the Philippines proper. If they are excluded, 
 the- number of islands remaining certainly cannot count more than 
 twelve hundred, even if every uninhabited rock and sand-spit that pro- 
 jects above sea level be reckoned. The following is a list of the more 
 important islands, with their approximate area in square miles: 
 
 Luzon 41,000 Leyte . 3,090 
 
 Mindanao 37,500 Negros 2,300 
 
 Samar 5,300 Cebu 1,650 
 
 Panay 4,600 Masbate 1,315 
 
 Palawan 4,150 Bohol 925 
 
 Mindoro 4,050 Catanduanes 450 
 
 The following islands have areas ranging from about 100 to 250 
 square miles: Basilan, Busuanga, Culion, Marinduque, Tablas, Dina-
 
 158 A RAPID GLANCE AT TH& ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 gat, Sulu, Guimaras, Tawi Ta\vi, Siquijor, Balabac, Sibuyan, Panaon, 
 
 Camiguin, Romblon, Ticao, Burias, Biliran, Siargao, and Polillo. The 
 
 total land area is approximately 114,000 square miles, Luzon and 
 
 Mindanao including more than half of it. Too much 
 
 T'YTFVr 
 
 TUP dependence cannot be placed upon the foregoing fig- 
 
 ARCH1PELAGO. lires > even though they are taken from Spanish official 
 
 estimates. The Pacific ocean side of the archipelago 
 
 is so little known that an accurate statement of area is hard to be made. 
 
 The extreme extent of the archipelago from north to south, count- 
 ing all the outlying islands and including the Sulu archipelago, is about 
 1,300 miles, and the extreme breadth about half that distance, the lim- 
 its of latitude being from five to twenty degrees north of the equator 
 and of longitude from 117 to 127 degrees east of Greenwich. 
 
 It is difficult to advise as to the. best season for a journey through 
 the provinces, for this varies with the locality to be visited. The whole 
 archipelago except the southerly islands is affected by the trade winds. 
 The southwest monsoon, beginning in April or May, blows for about 
 five months. Then, after a short season of variable winds and calms, 
 follows the northeast monsoon for a similar length of time. The south- 
 west winds usually bring the rains, but the local conditions of locality, 
 altitude and surrounding mountain ranges affect this matter to an ex- 
 tent that rules are hard to apply. A high range of mountains may make 
 weeks of difference in the beginning of the wet season. Rivers often 
 overflow their banks during the months of the rains and extensive 
 floods occur, but even these are much less feared than the destructive 
 whirling storms of wind and rain known as typhoons. The more 
 southerly islands are virtually exempt from these storms, but those 
 islands and channels where they do occur suffer 
 
 VIOLENCE o Tea t loss of property and life from the violent hurri- 
 
 Or THE 
 TYPHOONS canes. The force of the wind is almost incredible; 
 
 huge trees are uprooted, houses are unroofed or car- 
 ried away, and the stanchest ship may suffer destruction if it be in the 
 vortex of the storm. 
 
 In an ocean group extending through such a distance, it is neces- 
 sarily true that the conditions of climate vary considerably, and it is 
 impossible to generalize with accuracy. There is but one place in the
 
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 A RAPID GLANCE AT THE ARCHIPELAGO. 161 
 
 islands where reliable temperature records have been kept, and it is 
 from the observations of the Jesuit observatory in Manila that the fol- 
 lowing statistics are taken : The mean annual temperature in the cap- 
 ital is 80 degrees, the thermometer almost never rising above 100 in 
 the shade nor falling below 60. There is no month in the year during 
 which it does not rise as high as 91, while the mean monthly tempera- 
 tures are as follows: January 77, February 78, March 81, April 83, 
 May 84, June 82, July 81, August 81, September 81, October 80, Novem- 
 ber 79 and December 77. In addition to the fact that the mean temper- 
 ature of the year is 80 degrees, falling to only 77 in the coolest months, 
 it must be remembered that during most of the time the humidity of 
 the atmosphere is great, which makes the heat doubly trying. Through 
 the winter months the nights are usually fairly cool, but during the 
 hot season there is little relief from one week's end to another. 
 
 The climate of the Philippine islands may be wholesome or trying 
 to Americans, according to the place selected for residence and the 
 local conditions, as well as the care that the individual may be able 
 to take of himself. Malaria is very prevalent in some of the islands, 
 notably in Mindoro, Balabac and portions of Talawan, Mindanao and 
 Luzon, but there are many localities entirely free from it. 
 
 One who has made a special study into the climatic conditions as 
 they interest Americans speaks concerning those things as follows: 
 "I have never yet experienced at sea level a day 
 when a white man could endure severe physical ex- 
 
 - 
 
 ertion without suffering from the heat. If one is per- GOOD HEALTH. 
 rnanently situated in a good locality where he can 
 secure suitable food and good drinking water; if he is scrupulously care- 
 ful as to his diet, avoids excesses of all kinds, keeps out of the sun in the 
 middle of the day, and refrains from severe and long-continued physical 
 exertion, he is likely to remain well, always supposing that he is fortu- 
 nate enough to escape malarial infection. I kne\v an old Spaniard 
 who at the end of a residence of thirty-nine years in the Philippines 
 was able to boast that he had not been ill a day. He had always been 
 so situated that he could take care of himself and he had done it. But 
 how is it with the explorer, the engineer, the man who would fell 
 timber, cultivate new ground, or in some other way develop the latent
 
 162 A RAPID GLANCE AT THE ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 resources of the country? Any one really exposed to the climate under 
 such circumstances will find it severe. He cannot humor his digestive 
 apparatus, for his bill of fare will be limited to what he can carry 
 and what the country affords, and he will be fortunate indeed if sooner 
 or later he does not suffer severely from bowel trouble. He will be 
 more than fortunate if he escapes malaria, which is especially preva- 
 lent where forest land is being cleared or new ground broken. 
 
 "Our work sometimes made it necessary for us to visit localities 
 where fever was known to be prevalent and we came to look upon 
 it as one of the necessary evils of existence. A temperature of 106.5 
 was not comfortable, but it did not occasion us any alarm. After our 
 third trip to Mindoro the temperature of one member of our party 
 touched that mark on ten consecutive days; and I may add that, al- 
 though I have visited Mindoro three times with other white men and 
 have each time had considerable numbers of natives in my employ, I 
 have never yet escaped malaria nor was any other member of our 
 party, white or native, more fortunate. The traveler 
 
 ICH MALARIA goon i earns ^ o recognize several types of fever: one 
 
 PHILIPPINES recurs every third day, another every second day and 
 
 a third daily. If promptly and energetically taken 
 
 in hand, any of these may be shaken off, but the much dreaded calen- 
 
 tura perniciosa is a very malignant disease, running its course in a 
 
 few hours and frequently terminating with black vomit and death. 
 
 Fortunately la perniciosa is very local in its occurrence, and the places 
 
 where it is known to exist are shunned by natives and whites alike. 
 
 "It has been shown in a number of instances that malaria was due 
 to causes that could be remedied. Before the time of General Arolas, 
 Sulu was a fever center. By improving the drainage of the town and 
 by filling in low places with coral sand, he succeeded in almost com- 
 pletely stamping out the disease. Still more striking results were ob- 
 tained at Tataan, in Tawi Tawi, by an officer who had worked under 
 General Arojas in Sulu. The garrison at this point had suffered ter- 
 ribly and two governors had died there, but after the forest was cleared 
 away for half a mile around the block house and the ground thor- 
 oughly cleaned up, fever almost completely disappeared. 
 
 "It is unfortunately true that the climate of the Philippines is espe-
 
 A RAPID GLANCE AT THE ARCHIPELAGO. 163 
 
 cially severe in its effect ou white women and children. It is very doubt- 
 ful in my judgment if many successive generations of European or 
 American children could be reared there. We must then, I think, 
 necessaril}' admit that we have here a serious, though not necessarily 
 insurmountable, obstacle to the development of the great resources 
 of this remarkable country. Malaria and digestive troubles aside, the 
 health of the colony is fairly good, and the danger from epidemic dis- 
 ease is comparatively slight. Smallpox is always present, but it seldom 
 spreads rapidly, as a large percentage of the natives have it during 
 childhood, so that there is hardly material for an epidemic. Cholera 
 is infrequent, but when it once starts cannot be controlled. The 
 natives believe that a black dog runs down the streets and the disease 
 breaks out behind him. They declare that it is the will of God and 
 refuse to take the simplest precaution. Leprosy occurs, but is not 
 common. There is a great deal of biri-biri in Balabac, and I have 
 seen it in Mindoro. The bubonic plague has, fortunately, never gained 
 a hold in the Philippines." 
 
 The forces of nature which raised the Philippine islands from the 
 sea are not yet at rest. Evidences of the action of earthquakes and 
 volcanoes are visible on every hand throughout the archipelago, while 
 elevation and subsidence are going on with great 
 rapidity at the present time. It is not unusual to VOLCANOES 
 
 AND 
 
 have a native assure one that he now fishes where EARTHQUAKES. 
 his grandfather used to live, or vice versa. Some of 
 the islands, notably Cebu, are covered with limestone caps and give 
 indisputable evidence of having been heaved up from beneath the sea, 
 while in other parts of the archipelago extinct volcanoes, sulphur de- 
 posits, old lava beds and boiling springs afford mute witness to the 
 state of things which must have existed in the past. 
 
 There yet remain many active volcanoes in the island. The most 
 famous of these is the Mayon, an absolutely perfect cone about 8,000 
 feet in height, which is in a state of constant activity. It is situated 
 in the island of Luzon, which suffered materially from its last de- 
 structive eruption in 1888. Apo, in Mindanao, which is more than 
 10,000 feet in height, is the tallest of the mountains. The most de- 
 structive of the volcanoes is Taal, also in the island of Luzon. It has
 
 164 A RAPID GLANCE AT THE ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 been in destructive eruption repeatedly within the past two centuries 
 and is still smoldering. With a height of but 900 feet, it is one of the 
 lowest volcanoes in the world. It lies in the midst of a fresh-water 
 lake and has the form of a very much truncated cone, its entire top 
 having been blown off by a terrific explosion at the time of the last 
 great eruption. Other active volcanoes are found in Mindanao, Cami- 
 guin, Luzon, and the islands further northward of Luzon. 
 
 Earthquakes are unknown in the Palawan group, but elsewhere 
 in the archipelago they occur frequently and at times have been the 
 cause of considerable damage to life and property. 
 
 In all of the larger islands of the Philippines, moderately high 
 
 mountains are found, there being many peaks ranging between 6,000 
 
 and 10,000 feet. Those which are not volcanic are 
 
 MOUNTAINS, for the most part clotned with vegetation. The peaks 
 
 LAKES, RFYERS 
 
 AND FORESTS. * northern Palawan are very rugged and much 
 resemble the American Rockies. In Luzon and Min- 
 danao there are fresh-water lakes and rivers of considerable size. The 
 navigation of the rivers is greatly impeded by shifting sand bars at 
 their mouths, so that vessels drawing more than ten or eleven feet can- 
 not safely enter them. 
 
 Vast areas in many of the islands are still covered with magnifi- 
 cent virgin forests, but the denudation of the country is going on 
 steadily. When a native wishes to start a farm he clears away the 
 trees on a tract of the desired size, burns them, and cultivates the 
 ground thus laid bare. Sooner or later his plantation is invaded by 
 a tall, rank grass known as cogon. With the simple implements at 
 his disposal he cannot kill out this strong growing pest, so he aban- 
 dons his ground and clears more. When the cogon once gets a hold 
 nothing can compete with it, and the result is the great areas known 
 as cogonales are overgrown with this almost useless grass, which has 
 little utilitarian value. To some extent it is of service for thatch and 
 for firewood, while at the close of the dry season, when the natives 
 burn over the cogonales, the fresh green shoots which spring up after 
 the first showers provide forage for cattle and horses. 
 
 The astonishingly fertile soil of many of the islands produces crops 
 yffir after year without thought of artificial enrichment.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 
 
 The Fortifications of the Walled City Within the Walls The Foreign Quarter 
 The Beautiful Drive of the Lunetta Execution of the Filipinos Spanish 
 Society on Parade Expenses of Living Bull Fighting and Cock Fighting 
 Music and the Drama The American Circus Horse Bacing The Water 
 Front of Manila Hotels and Their Characteristics Windows Made of Shells 
 The Lottery of Manila How the People Dress The Homes of Manila 
 Enemies of Woodwork The Stores and Shops The Cemetery of Manila 
 Around Luzon The Farmer of the Philippines When the Insurgents Left 
 Manila. 
 
 M 
 
 ANILA has far outgrown its original boundaries as they were 
 when the city was named. The ancient walled city on the south- 
 ern bank of the Rasig river still comprises the original limits as 
 they were located by the ancient conquerors. Here there is a suggestion 
 of the obsolete fortifications of the middle ages, the walls of gray stone 
 with parapets and bastions, imposing enough and picturesque, but 
 utterly valueless against modern artillery. Fortunate it was for the 
 Spaniards and equally fortunate for the tourist who is to come, that 
 Admiral Dewey did not find it necessary to bombard the place on that 
 August day when General Merritt's forces entered the city. 
 
 On the northern side of the walled city the river serves as a moat 
 and on the west the waters of Manila bay approach the walls. On 
 the other two sides moats have been constructed which can be filled 
 with water in the event of an attack. The last time they were em- 
 ployed was in the war with Great Britain in 1762, when General Draper 
 captured the city. The walls altogether encircling the city measure 
 more than two miles in length and are from ten to twenty feet thick. 
 Ancient cannon of picturesque pattern are mounted on top, some of 
 them dating from the end of the thirteenth century. There are, how- 
 ever, a few modern guns. 
 
 1(55
 
 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 
 
 The masonry of these fortifications has proved its worth. It has 
 withstood the onset of many an assault in olden time, while the hun- 
 dreds of earthquake shocks that have shaken it have 
 
 done little dama S e - The moats have been the rece P* 
 PERMANENT. tacle of stagnant water and refuse for many a year 
 and must have been the source of much of the fever 
 which has oppressed the city. Within this wall were the Spanish forces 
 who were surrendered by their commander to Dewey and Merritt when 
 defense w r as no longer possible. 
 
 The walled city has eight gates equipped with portcullis and draw- 
 bridge after the medieval fashion, but for fifty years they have not been 
 raised. Within the walls are found many of the government offices, 
 a post-office and telegraph office, the old custom house, convents, col- 
 leges, a cathedral, eleven oiurches, an observatory and an arsenal. 
 Many shops and small stores are situated here. 
 
 The old city of Manila offers picturesque sights for the tourist, but 
 is not the one where he would choose to stay after he had exhausted 
 the sights. In the "new" city outside the walls there is more cleanli- 
 ness, more fresh air, more modern buildings, and a number of very 
 pretty parks and public gardens. This is on the other side of the Pasig 
 river from the walled city and is known as Binondo, a great trading 
 center where all the foreign merchants have their places of business. 
 Here many of the streets are fairly well paved and in some instances 
 as wide as those we are accustomed to at home. The 
 
 retail shops are nearly all in the hands of Chinese mer- 
 THE CHINESE 
 ELEMENT chants, many of them of great wealth and prominence. 
 
 Their countrymen of humbler station are seen on every 
 street, performing much of the manual labor of the city. Chinese 
 coolies carry burdens, drive carts and do much of the heaviest work. 
 Chinese tradesmen are the leaders in most of the mechanical industries 
 and trades, this in spite of the fact that Chinese labor is supposed to 
 be discountenanced by the people and the laws as they have existed 
 under the Spanish rule. 
 
 The great show places of Manila are the Santa Lucia and the 
 Lunetta. These drives run from the Pasig river, along the sea front of 
 the walled city, and then out across the immense open parade ground
 
 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 167 
 
 which separates the walls of Manila from the suburbs of Ermita, They 
 are practically one continuous road, but the mile that fronts the city 
 walls is called the Lucia and the broader oval park-like extension is the 
 Lunetta. Kows of waving, stubby palm trees mark the edges of the 
 drives and electric-light poles line the borders throughout their entire 
 length. In the old days these avenues were famous for their beauty 
 and display. It is doubtful whether any other city in the orient could 
 rival them for brilliance and fashionable luxury. 
 
 It is also doubtful whether another drive exists which is so grim 
 in tragic memories as the beautiful Lunetta. Hundreds of Filipinos 
 have been executed there. In the mornings the crowds would throng 
 the drives to see the Filipinos shot and in the evening they would gather 
 again to hear the music at the bandstand. But the war has stopped all 
 of that. The Lunetta became neglected as the insurgents kept advanc- 
 ing closer and closer to the borders of the city. The Spanish officials 
 who had robbed and murdered to their hearts' content were afraid to 
 venture out at night beyond the walls of the city for fear of being 
 assassinated by natives who hungered for revenge. Strong barricades 
 were built at the corner of the walled city just where the Lucia merges 
 into the broader Lunetta, and the Spaniards never ventured beyond that 
 barricade of railroad iron and sacks of earth. When the Americans 
 took the city it was days and days before the proud Spaniards would 
 show themselves, but' now they are again venturing out beyond the 
 walls and the Santa Lucia is regaining something of its former gayety. 
 
 In the evening when the sun is sinking behind the Mariviles moun- 
 tains the wealth and fashion of Spanish Manila emerges from the 
 gloomy streets of the walled city and shows itself in dress parade on 
 the water front. All the soldiers who are prisoners of war also come 
 out for a breathing spell. Carriages roll up and down and back and 
 forth through the short length of the Lucia. Rows of 
 other vehicles are drawn up along the edges, the occu- 
 pants smoking and lazily watching the passing show. LUNETTA. 
 Pretty women, bareheaded, and dressed in cool, re- 
 freshing white, look Enchanting to one who has seen nothing but yellow 
 and brown Malay girls all summer and whose experiences in society 
 have been confined to young, barefooted Philippine ladies who smoke
 
 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 
 
 cigars and wear gauze waists with rags reefed around them. The surf 
 rolls in long curling ridges, the palm trees wave in the fresh evening 
 air, the ships of the fleet lying out in the bay twinkle -with lights, and 
 the Mariviles mountains and Corregidor aw r ay to the west fade into 
 purple shadows. When the full moon comes out it lights up the domes 
 and towers of the city and spreads a radiance of white across the bosom 
 of the bay. The air is full of the music of crickets and grasshoppers, 
 and the fragrance of flowers steals out of the verdure along the drive. 
 
 The Americans have taken little part in the showy display which 
 comes each evening along the Santa Lucia. Occasionally a soldier in 
 service-worn buff clatters along on a little Philippine horse, but there 
 has been no general inclination to mix with the brilliant show on the 
 avenue. Dr. Farrell, one of the surgeons of the 1st California, as- 
 tounded the Spaniards by appearing on the Lucia driving a carriage 
 four-in-hand. When it is considered that the Spanish law r s here forbid 
 any one besides the archbishop and the governor-general appearing 
 behind a four-in-hand, the extent of the sensation which Dr. Farrell 
 caused may be imagined. Colonel Jew T ett, the judge-advocate, who has 
 a fine carriage, is one of the few Americans who have contributed to the 
 evening display on the Lucia. 
 
 At 8 o'clock it is all over, for that is the dinner hour in Manila. 
 The carriages gradually disappear within the somber sallyports of the 
 old moss-covered w r alls, and at 8:30 hardly one remains. The Spanish 
 soldiers still linger along the little benches until the hour comes for 
 them to return within the walls, and then the Lucia and Limetta are 
 quiet. Only an occasional caromata rattles over the beautiful drive. 
 
 Between the Lunetta and the district of the city where the work- 
 ing classes live, the contrast is startling. The filth of the latter is ap- 
 palling and the houses are hovels crowded with human beings, animals 
 and vermin. Here start the epidemics which are so 
 fatal | the ^ Population. 
 
 MANILA. rue P u " llc improvements of the city have not 
 
 been as meager as might have been expected. There 
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 ment. Fortunately the comforts that are most essential are the 
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 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 173 
 
 are very low; servant hire is so cheap that one can have 
 a retinue at the cost of a single house maid at home. Carriages 
 and horses are likewise inexpensive, whether one keeps his own vehicles 
 or hires them at his w r ill. The equipages, however, are very queer in 
 appearance measured by American standards, and the horses by no 
 means equal to those we drive at home. 
 
 The sports of Manila are materially different from those to which 
 we are accustomed, for their favorites have been bull-fighting and 
 cock-fighting. The bull ring of Manila, in the suburb of Paco, draws 
 great crowds when the entertainment is offered, in spite of the fact 
 that the performances are by no means spirited. Neither Spanish bull- 
 fighters nor Spanish bulls are brought to the island, so that native talent 
 has to be obtained to play both roles. The bulls are timid and lazy, the 
 bull-fighters are little better, so that the traveler does not see bull- 
 fighting of the same sort that he w r ould in Spain, Cuba or Mexico. 
 
 Cock-fighting, on the other hand, is maintained at as high a station 
 as its rival is low. The government shares the profit from the sport- 
 by taxing it and issuing licenses with a carefully regulated legal code. 
 There are official galleries or cock-pits and the regulations are minute 
 as to the terms of betting, the character of the spurs, and other details. 
 The Spanish code on this subject for the Philippines contains no less 
 than one hundred specific sections. The clergy of 
 the island have been among the best patrons of the COCK-FIGHTING 
 
 A 
 
 sport. They are successful breeders, skillful handlers SPORT. 
 
 and regular bettors. The officers of the Spanish army 
 and navy have been good patrons. The galleries are always well patron- 
 ized and on Sundays and feast days crowded to suffocation. 
 
 Music and the drama are popular in some forms and in others are 
 neglected. The three theaters of Manila give rather dull performances 
 of comedies, farces and melodramas. When the city is visited by real 
 dramatic companies from Hongkong or by an Italian opera company, 
 patronage is generous. Military music is specially favored by the 
 people and some of it is of more than average quality. The Spanish 
 regimental bands are usually excellent, while the Filipinos themselves 
 have organized at least one notably fine band of ninety pieces. 
 
 The most popular of all amusements brought by strangers to the
 
 174 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 
 
 city is the American circus. As is well known, every circus in the far 
 East is called American in order to obtain the advertising which ac- 
 companies the name. When these organizations come to Manila from 
 Hongkong or Amoy, they are almost overwhelmed by the warmth of 
 their reception. No company plays a shorter season than three weeks, 
 while some remain two and three times that long. 
 
 Horse-racing in Manila is directed by the jockey club, which holds 
 
 a week of races every year. The membership includes nearly all of the 
 
 European and American colony, as it has been constituted before the 
 
 war. The club has a fine track and generous purses 
 
 are awarded. The riding is done by gentlemen jock- 
 
 IN I H K 
 
 FOREIGN COLONY. e ^ s > there being no professionals in the country. 
 The animals are very small, much after the fashion 
 of American polo ponies, but the races are popular and afford excellent 
 sport for the social world. The club entertains liberally during the race 
 week. 
 
 The water front of Manila affords interesting and picturesque 
 sights for the stranger. The anchorage is usually crowded with 
 steamers and sailing vessels. In the river, huge cargo barges or light- 
 ers move slowly up stream conveying freight from the vessels in the 
 harbor to the warehouses on shore. Along the banks of the river are 
 the smaller steamers, schooners and other craft from the island 
 provinces, which are of sufficiently light draft to cross the bar and 
 reach the docks. Then there are huge canoes, small dug-outs, ferry- 
 boats for Cavite and places up the river, so that the scene is always a 
 busy one. 
 
 When the passenger lands there is the same clamor for the privi- 
 lege of driving him to the hotels that results from cabmen's rivalry the 
 world over. There are three styles of carriages for rent in Manila. 
 These are the two-horse camiage or barouche, the quelis and the caro- 
 mata. The carruage is the eminently proper thing to take. The quelis 
 is a little square two-wheeled trap, with the driver perched up in front 
 and seats for four inside. The caromata or native cart, with its one 
 dilapidated pony and rope harness, is a top-heavy, two-wheeled institu- 
 tion which continually threatens to overturn. The driver rides inside 
 with the passengers, sometimes sitting in their laps.
 
 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 175 
 
 There are various hotels in Manila with varying degrees of ex- 
 cellence, although none satisfy an exacting American traveler who is 
 unwilling to put up with Filipino customs. No doubt an American 
 hotel will be one of the earliest and most profitable 
 ventures after peace is assured. The best hotels in 
 the city are the Hotel de Oriente and Hotel de Europa, QUALITY. 
 either of which will answer till something better is 
 constructed. The others, however pretentious their names may be, such 
 as Hotel de Madrid, Hotel del Universa and La Catalauta, are of the 
 next grade lower and hardly to be considered by the American traveler. 
 
 As a result of the threat of earthquakes, one seldom sees build- 
 ings more than two stories high and the heavy tile roofs formerly in 
 use have been replaced by lighter ones of galvanized iron. The con- 
 sequence of this is that the heat w r ithin the houses, radiated from the 
 roofs, sometimes becomes intense. Window glass is little used in the 
 houses. Little squares of translucent oyster shells are used instead, 
 which soften the glare of the tropical sun. The sides of upper stories 
 in the houses are often constructed almost entirely of frames filled with 
 these little shells so arranged that they can be slid back, thus throwing 
 the entire room open to the breeze. The living rooms are almost in- 
 variably in the second story, the ground floor being used for servants' 
 quarters, shops, offices or store-rooms. 
 
 Most of the streets of Manila are wretchedly paved or not paved at 
 all. They are inadequately lighted, some by kerosene lamps and others 
 even by wicks suspended in dishes of cocoanut oil. 
 
 CTT\ r 
 
 There is, however, an electric light svstem, which will 
 
 CHARACTER. 
 
 be extended rapidly. Diminutive street cars, each ISTICS. 
 
 drawn by a single pony, run on two different lines into 
 the suburbs. The principal business street is the Escolta, where the 
 Spanish, French and German stores are located. They have carried 
 fair assortments of European goods, but the prices have been high on 
 account of the excessive import duties. The Chinese shops, on the other 
 hand, are mostly found on the Rosario, another important business 
 street. The city is entirely without any adequate system of drainage. 
 Canals radiate from the Pasig river in various directions and into these
 
 176 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 
 
 the filth of the city is dumped whenever it is not allowed to accumulate 
 about the houses. 
 
 The Manila lottery is one of the notable institutions of the islands. 
 The Spanish government has derived from it an annual profit of half a 
 million dollars, while the tickets have been distributed not only through- 
 out the archipelago, but in Hongkong and along the China coast. The 
 inborn gambling instinct of the Filipino is thus fostered and many a 
 poor fellow spends his last cent for lottery tickets and then goes to 
 jail for not paying his taxes. Estimates of the population of Manila 
 have been varied and doubtful. The most authentic information, how- 
 ever, places the total population at about 300,000, of which natives 
 number 200,000. The Chinese are credited with 40,000 of the remainder, 
 the Chinese half-breeds 45,000, the Spanish and Spanish Creoles 5,000, 
 the Spanish half-castes about as many, and the Europeans and Amer- 
 icans other than Spanish about 400. 
 
 Most of the Spanish are army and navy officers, who must dress in 
 uniform, but unless there is some good reason to the contrary all Euro- 
 peans wear white duck suits over very thin underwear. The Chinaman 
 sticks to his national costume, while the people of mixed blood almost 
 invariably adopt the native dress, which for men consists of hat, shirt, 
 pantaloons and slippers. 
 
 The dress of the native women is very pretty when good materials 
 
 are used, and so well adapted to the climate that many European and 
 
 American women adopt it for their home attire. It consists of a thin 
 
 waist, called the camisa, with huge flowing sleeves; 
 
 DRFSS OF 
 
 \ TTVF a more or I G>SS highly embroidered white chemise 
 
 FILIPINOS. showing through the camisa; a large kerchief folded 
 about the neck with ends crossed and pinned on the 
 breast; a ga} r ly colored skirt with long train and a square of black 
 cloth drawn tightly around the body from waist to knees. Stockings 
 are not worn as a rule and the slippers which take the place of shoes 
 have no heels and no uppers except for a narrow strip of leather over the 
 toes. It is an art to walk in these without losing them, but the native 
 belles contrive to dance in them and feel greatly chagrined if they lose 
 their foot-gear in the operation. 
 
 Many of the Mestiza or half-caste women and girls are very attrac-
 
 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 177 
 
 tive, and, like the native women, they have beautiful hair, which not in- 
 frequently reaches to their heels and of which they are inordinately 
 proud. They also take pride in small feet, if they happen to possess 
 them, and it is not at all unusual to see slippers which are quite too 
 small for their owners and leave some of the toes dangling helplessly 
 outside. 
 
 On account of the climate, which is conducive to indolence, nearly 
 everybody who can afford the time takes a nap or siesta in the middle 
 of the day. Meals and business alike are arranged to suit this custom 
 and the hours of labor are not burdensome in any calling. Coffee and 
 fruit are served in the early morning. An exceedingly light breakfast 
 is provided about 8 o'clock. Tiffin, which is a substantial luncheon with 
 several hot dishes, is taken at noon, and dinner is served at 8 o'clock in 
 the evening. 
 
 In deference to the earthquake and the typhoon, architecture in 
 Manila takes peculiar forms. The only high buildings are the churches, 
 and these are built with very thick walls. The public 
 buildings are heavy and gloom v. In the business USES AND 
 
 mii'pi'O 
 
 quarter the houses are of tw r o stories with enormously ENEMIES 
 thick walls and partitions. The Malay bungalows in 
 the suburbs are one-story, supported with tiles or stone foundations 
 and covered with thatch. In the Chinese quarter the buildings are 
 chiefly one-story and where two-storied have the lower one of great 
 solidity and the upper one so light as to be almost fragile. 
 
 Another enemy of houses never to be ignored is the white ant. 
 This energetic creature, as well as two or three of his allies, is so vo- 
 racious that the wooden beams and floors of houses frequently must 
 be renew r ed after their attacks. Every effort has been made by the 
 people to avert the ravages of the ants; they have tried varnishing the 
 w r oods and painting them with poisonous compounds, on all of which 
 the ants seem to thrive. There are some woods which are less subject 
 to the pest than others, but none is entirely exempt. 
 
 Houses follow the example of those in Spain and the Spanish- 
 American countries for their interior arrangement. Almost always 
 the dwelling is built around an open quadrangle or else there is a drive- 
 way through the house with a courtyard in the interior or at the rear 4
 
 178 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 
 
 of the building. Sometimes the house sets back from the street, se- 
 cluded by a high wall. Rooms, halls, carriageway and courtyard are 
 smoothly paved with blocks of stone -brought from quarries in China. 
 The walls are covered with whitewash and stone stairways lead to the 
 second floor, where the choicer living apartments always are found. 
 Windows and doors are left open as much as possible and refreshing 
 breezes moderate the heat of nearly all seasons. It requires no exer- 
 tion on the part of a householder to make his home beautiful. Nature 
 will do it all. Mosses, vines and flowers cover every wall and trees 
 sprout everywhere, all with blossoms and blazes of color in every place, 
 expected and unexpected. 
 
 Stocks of goods kept by the merchants of Manila are always small, 
 
 because of the excessive and indiscriminate taxation which has been 
 
 applied under the Spanish regime. The dealer makes 
 
 WHAT MERCHANTS ag nttle display as poss ibi e , in order to avoid the ap- 
 
 HAVE 
 
 FOR SALE. pearance of wealth and consequent taxation. How- 
 ever, the stocks of goods are fairly well selected and 
 anything ordered can be obtained promptly from the bonded ware- 
 houses. Clothing for men and women alike is made to order in less 
 time than anywhere else on earth, and the goods themselves are brought 
 to the home of the customer for selection instead of requiring a shop- 
 ping expedition. 
 
 Silver and gold jewelry, made by native workmen and sold in 
 the stores of Manila, is peculiarly interesting and attractive. Basket- 
 work of all sorts and fancy matting are another offering of the shops 
 of peculiar interest to strangers. Confections of guava and other 
 fruits prepared with native sugar, appeal to those fond of sweet- 
 meats. Chinese stores offer fans of all sorts from the highest to the 
 lowest price. Parasols and umbrellas, which are required by every- 
 one, whether in dry or rainy seasons, form a large part of the wares 
 of the shopkeepers. Altogether, the stranger in Manila may find 
 plenty of novelties to buy for souvenirs of his journey, characteristic 
 of the country and exceedingly" interesting to the people at home. 
 
 One of the most interesting spots of Manila is the old Paco ceme- 
 tery, with its massive walls suggestive rather of a defense for the liv- 
 ing than of a last refuge of the dead. The cemetery is in a circular
 
 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 179 
 
 \ 
 
 space inclosed by a huge wall of masonry eight or nine feet thick and 
 ten feet high. The only entrance is through a gate of iron and wood 
 of great strength, which still further adds to the ap- 
 pearance of fortification. Within this circular wall MANILA'S 
 is a second wall built in the same manner, present- CEMETERY. 
 ing a solid front to the exterior. The interior is a 
 honeycomb of crypts in which the coffins of the dead are placed, the 
 entrance being sealed by small ornamental tablets of stone bearing 
 the names of the dead. In many of the crypts there is a double door, 
 the outer one being of glass, through which quaint images of the 
 Virgin and the infant Christ or some other decoration such as rudely 
 fashioned artificial flowers are seen. Each crypt rents for about $35 
 yearly a small fortune for these people and when the inmate is for- 
 gotten or the relatives become impoverished or for any reason this 
 rental is unpaid the remains are immediately sw r ept from the tomb and 
 cast into a common receptacle for all like unfortunates "the bone- 
 yard." 
 
 In this mixture of history and description, is the place to tell the 
 story of the withdrawal of General Aguinaldo and his forces from the 
 city of Manila into the country. Luzon was so entirely under the sway 
 of the insurgents that there was little difficulty for them in finding a 
 welcome in the country, once they decided to accept the inevitable and 
 withdraw from the capital. 
 
 When General Otis sent word to the insurgents that they must 
 withdraw their forces from Manila and its suburbs there was a settled 
 conviction that trouble would result. The time limit was set at Sep- 
 tember 15, and as this time drew near and no movement was manifest 
 in the native barracks the American lines were strengthened and 
 preparations made for the encounter which then seemed unavoidable. 
 On the 14th, however, it w r as stated on official authority that the in- 
 surgent 'generals had agreed to move out of the city and to vacate 
 the convents and private houses that they had appropriated for their 
 military uses. They had gone to General Otis, and after a long con- 
 sultation this peaceful solution of the difficulty had been reached. 
 
 With practical unanimity the leaders protested that they were 
 entirely friendly to the American forces and that they did not desire
 
 180 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 
 
 to do anything which would appear unfriendly. They would willingly 
 
 withdraw their troops from the city provided some assurance were 
 
 given them that if the Americans left the Philippines 
 
 WTTFTV TITF 
 
 they, the insurgents, would be left in as strong posi- 
 
 . , 
 
 LEFT MANILA tions as they had occupied before the city was sur- 
 rendered. Another point was brought forward very 
 strongly which they said they w r ere exceedingly concerned in knowing. 
 This was whether or not the Spaniards would be placed in their former 
 defenses and given the arms that had been surrendered, and whether 
 the relative positions of the Spanish and insurgent forces would be 
 established as they were before the city was surrendered. 
 
 General Otis told them that if the Americans left the Philippines 
 the Spaniards would be restored to their defensive positions and their 
 arms given them. This did not please the insurgents, but they agreed 
 that such an action would be just and was to be expected. Some of 
 them, notably General Pio del Pilar, a fire-eater who has had command 
 of the forces at Paco, showed a keen resentment against being sent 
 out of the city, and it was thought for a time that General Pilar would 
 rebel against the acquiescence of the majority. At noon on the 14th 
 there was great activity among the insurgents. Officers were riding 
 around and big numbers of troops w r ere centralizing in the different 
 out-lying districts. Even then it was a doubtful matter whether or 
 not they were to retire peacefully or whether a few of the rebellious 
 hot-headed commanders would refuse to abide by the verdict of the 
 majority. 
 
 A request was made by them of the American general command- 
 ing the Malate and Ermite division that they be permitted to march 
 up the Lunetta with their arms and pass along the ground where the 
 Spaniards used to shoot the Filipinos. It was a pretty sentiment and 
 General Ovenshire gave his consent. 
 
 At 5:30, out of the Calle Real in Ermita appeared an officer on a 
 fiery native pony. He was Colonel Callais, one of the ablest officers 
 in the entire insurgent army, a man whose whole soul was in the cause, 
 who is well educated and a fine strategist, and who has a nobility of 
 bearing that marks him a soldier and a man of high qualities. Close 
 at the heels of his pony came the magnificent Pasig band, composed
 
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 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 183 
 
 entirely of native musicians and numbering ninety pieces. Every man 
 was in uniform and the piece they played was a stirring wild native 
 march that set the horses to prancing and everyone who listened 
 tingling with enthusiasm. Then came the troops, hundreds and hun- 
 dreds of them, all in blue drilling and every man with his rifle. There 
 were over six hundred of them arid the picture their bright uniforms 
 made as the columns of four wheeled out of the Calle Real, down the 
 Calle San Luis, with the bands playing and the horses 
 tearing back and forth, was one never to be forgotten. 
 
 THE SITUATION 
 
 Throngs of people watched the long lines march by. REALIZED. 
 There was something pathetic about the whole inci- 
 dent, for they were being driven out of the city which they had fought 
 so long to get into, and even though their presence within the Amer- 
 ican lines was a constant menace and their withdrawal absolutely 
 necessary one could not help feeling sorry for them. 
 
 Down the Calle San Luis they marched, then down the Paco road 
 toward the walled city, to the Calle Bagumbayan, and then began their 
 triumphal march past the walls of old Manila, where the ramparts 
 were thronged with Spanish prisoners watching the departure of their 
 enemies. This was the nearest that a rebel flag had ever approached 
 the walled city, and it must have been a source of satisfaction to the 
 insurgents to show their strength to their hated oppressors by pa- 
 rading right under the ancient walls. Scores of carriages were drawn 
 up along the line of inarch, and many of them contained Spanish of- 
 ficers. 
 
 The Wyoming soldiers lined up and cheered the insurgents as they 
 marched by the Wyoming barracks, and it sounded strange to hear one 
 force cheering another which the day before was looked on as half an 
 enemy. It was a good thing, however, and it made the insurgents feel 
 good. 
 
 Swinging from the Calle Bagumbayan, which circles the eastern 
 and southern sides of the walled city, the departing native troops turned 
 down the Lunetta and straight on out the Calle Real, never stopping 
 until they left the suburbs far behind. Over in Tondo and in Paco and 
 in Sampaloc and in the other suburbs where the insurgents had massed 
 this scene was being repeated, although not with such a show nor with
 
 184 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 
 
 so many bands. In the twenty-four hours of September 14 over four 
 thousand armed insurgents marched out of the city, and although many 
 of them returned later they were unarmed and in consequence welcome 
 to stay as long as they chose. 
 
 General Otis conducted the arrangements for the departure of the 
 insurgents very skillfully, for it was a delicate situation and an ill- 
 advised move might have thrown the two forces into active conflict. 
 
 The next day (September 15) marked the opening of the congress 
 of the Philippine revolutionary government at Malolos. This town is 
 thirty-eight kilometers north of Manila, and it is the place where 
 Aguinaldo has set up his government. Several Amer- 
 icans attended the opening. The train from Manila 
 CONGRESS AT 
 
 MALOLOS. was J amme( l with natives, and a great many promi- 
 nent Philippine merchants and law r yers were on board. 
 About eighty representatives from different parts of the Philippine isl- 
 ands were in Malolos to represent their various districts. The town 
 was decorated with insurgent flags of all colors. Any design that re- 
 motely approached the red and blue of the true flag was made to serve, 
 and every nipa hut had its rudely fashioned flag floating out from the 
 banana and palm trees. Congress was held in a church. The first ses- 
 sion was short and not imposing. 
 
 Aguinaldo, in swallow tail and a dazzling shirt front, called the 
 meeting to order, read his address and then retired. The session was 
 adjourned until the following day, and time given the members to dis- 
 cuss the articles of the new constitution. Through the courtesy of 
 Aguinaldo the American newspaper men, Consul Williams and several 
 other Americans were given an abundant luncheon. Speeches were 
 made by prominent members of the congress and every expression of 
 friendship was made. It was hard to realize that the day before the 
 American forces had thrust the insurgents out of the city of Manila. 
 
 There were loud "Viva Americanos," and the guests were made to 
 feel that they were among friends. No people are more hospitable 
 than the Filipinos. At one time during the luncheon a Spaniard from 
 Manila, who was connected with a business house there, was arrested 
 on the street near where the Americans were located for attempting 
 to arouse public feeling against the Americans. He had been circu-
 
 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON, 185 
 
 lating wild stories, tending to inflame the more ignorant natives against 
 the visitors, but the insurgent leaders ordered his immediate arrest. 
 The Pasig band was in Malolos, and the city looked gala in the ex- 
 treme. 
 
 Aguinaldo was quartered in an old convent, which had been con- 
 verted into a place of considerable grandeur. Here he received dele- 
 gates and friends with that serene, implacable look which is so pe- 
 culiar to him. 
 
 Just southwest of the province of Manila lies the province of Cavite, 
 which is one of the most important on the island of Luzon. At the 
 northern end of the province the land runs out into Manila bay in a 
 long peninsula, which in turn divides into two smaller 
 ones pointing toward the mainland. This is the site TOWN OP 
 of the city of Cavite, which, besides being the capital CAYITE. 
 of the province, also has been the northern naval sta- 
 tion of the Philippine government. Here was the scene of the de- 
 struction of the Spanish fleet by the American squadron under Ad- 
 miral Dewey. The city of Cavite is about six miles and a half from 
 Manila and is connected with the capital by frequent ferryboats. 
 
 Luzon, with an area of 42,000 square miles, includes more than a 
 third of the total extent of the land surface of the Philippine islands. 
 In its northern portion are extensive chains of lofty mountains with 
 many volcanic peaks, active and interesting. One of them, the Mayon 
 volcano, in Albay province, is a perfect cone rising to a height of more 
 than ten thousand feet. The volcano of Taal, on the other hand, in 
 the same range, is one of the lowest active volcanoes known. 
 
 In Luzon are river and lake systems second only to those of 
 Mindanao. The Rio Grande de Cagayan, which rises near the center of 
 the island, flows into the ocean at the northern extremity and drains 
 an immense area of great fertility. Here is grown the best tobacco 
 raised in the archipelago. The river is navigable for some distance, 
 although the bar at the mouth obstructs the entrance for steamers of 
 more than ten feet draft. The Pantanga river also rises in South 
 Caraballo mountain, but flows in the opposite direction, emptying into 
 Manila bay by a delta with more than twenty mouths. The low ground
 
 186 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 
 
 along its banks is extensively cultivated and produces good crops of 
 rice and sugar cane. 
 
 The Laguna de Bay, which is but a few miles inland from Manila, 
 is the largest body of fresh water in the archipelago, although some 
 of the Mindanao lakes approach it closely in size. Its 
 LAKES AN! greatest length is twenty-five miles and its greatest 
 LUZON ISLAND, breadth twenty-one. It empties into Manila bay by 
 the Pasig river, which separates the newer portion 
 of the capital from the old, and is navigable to the lake for small, flat- 
 bottomed steamers. Lake Bombon, from the center of which rises 
 Taal volcano, measures fourteen by eleven miles. 
 
 The natural resources of Luzon are enormous. Rich deposits 
 of gold and other valuable minerals have long been known to exist. 
 The soil is very productive and yields the greater part of the sugar 
 raised in the archipelago, together with hemp, coffee, cacao, rice, to- 
 bacco, and, in fact, all the more important staple products of the colony. 
 
 Luzon is the most populous island of all the Philippine archipelago, 
 some estimates as to the numbers of its inhabitants running as high as 
 5,000,000. The most important of the numerous tribes into which the 
 people are divided are the Tagalogs and the Ilocanos. Both are civil- 
 ized and as a rule orderly, although brigandage is not uncommon in 
 the Tagalog territory. It is from this tribe that the greater part of 
 Aguinaldo's support in the insurrection of the Filipinos has been drawn. 
 In a later chapter on the people of the Philippines, more detailed in- 
 formation will be included on the races inhabiting this island. 
 
 The absence of proper railway facilities is not as great a handicap in 
 the Philippines as it might be in some other countries, for the remark- 
 ably irregular coast-line and the extended interior water systems en- 
 able the traveler to reach the greater part of the archipelago by boat. 
 There are little, light-draft steamboats which go almost everywhere 
 and which charge very low fares, while upon every navigable stream, 
 lake and bay are small boats which can be hired for an insignificant 
 sum. 
 
 A steamer runs from Manila northward along the west coast of 
 Luzon nearly to Cape Bojeador. At any one of several ports the 
 traveler who is willing to undergo discomfort may begin an excursion
 
 MANILA AND THE ISLAND OF LUZON. 187 
 
 
 into the interior of the island, where scenery of great beauty will 
 
 be found and native manners and customs may be studied in their 
 most primitive condition. There is very little danger 
 to the traveler in the extreme north along the coast, 
 for the natives are hospitable to the limit t of their THE TRAVELER. 
 means and quite docile. The country is little culti- 
 vated by civilized methods except in the more accessible portions, and 
 opportunities for development by American capital and energy are 
 enormous.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 ILOILO AND THE VISAYAN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 Islands of the Visayan Group Insurgent Complications at Iloilo The Journey 
 from Manila to Panay Arrival at the City Critical Conditions Commerce 
 of Iloilo Neighboring Towns of Panay Cebu and Its History Natural 
 Features of Panay The Island of Negros and Its Products Siquijor Samar, 
 the Third of the Philippines The Town of Catbalogan. 
 
 IN THE geographical grouping of the Philippine islands, the Visayan 
 archipelago has a place of its own, and in it are found the second 
 and third commercial cities of the Philippines Iloilo and Cebu. The 
 Visayan group lies directly north of the great island of Mindanao and 
 south of Luzon, although it is not considered to include all of the isl- 
 ands directly south of the western portion of Luzon. The most im- 
 portant islands of the group are Panay, on which is the city of Iloilo; 
 Guimaras, Negros, Cebu, Bohol, Samar and Leyte. 
 
 Iloilo has come into familiarity in the last few months because of 
 its importance in the Spanish-insurgent complications. After the 
 capture of Manila by the American forces, Iloilo was the seat of Span- 
 ish government in the Philippines. It was then surrounded by the 
 insurgents, who besieged the city until the Spanish commander sur- 
 rendered to them. This situation w r as a considerable puzzle to the 
 American authorities in the island. It placed the insurgent forces in 
 possession of the second city in the archipelago, w r ith an ample supply 
 of arms and ammunition. They proceeded to organize a government of 
 their own, quite distinct from that of which Aguinaldo was the head, 
 announcing it as the Visayan republic. When American troops were 
 hurried to Iloilo from Manila, 300 miles away, the} r were forbidden the 
 privilege of landing and the situation became more than critical. This 
 was at the time the ratification of the treaty of peace with Spain was 
 under discussion in the United States Senate and the state of affairs at 
 
 188
 
 ILOILO AND THE VIS AY AN ARCHIPELAGO. 189 
 
 Iloilo was brought into particular prominence. There was a gen- 
 eral sentiment of reluctance throughout the country to see American 
 arms turned against an insurgent body who had 
 expelled their enemies from the second stronghold 
 of the island, and were standing upon their rights AROUND ILOILO. 
 as victors over the Spanish to demand consideration 
 and independence. Let Mr. McCutcheon, the artist correspondent, 
 describe his interesting journey from Manila to Iloilo, made, last Sep- 
 tember, when conditions were strained but before the insurgents had 
 taken the city: 
 
 The trip betw r een the two cities is one of the most charming ex- 
 periences that a traveler could ever hope for. Some day, when the army 
 of tourists invades the Philippines and the red guidebook and the 
 personally conducted tour become established features, there will be 
 pages and pages in the steamship prospectuses devoted to it. The island 
 sea of Japan, the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence, the castle- 
 capped peaks of the Rhine and the beautiful Golden Horn of Turkey 
 will have a new rival. During the forty hours that it takes one of the 
 small steamers of the Compania Maritima to make the run, the sight 
 of land is never Tost, and the scene is constantly shifting, and is always 
 new and wonderful. The vessel passes by dozens of islands, every one 
 of which is glorious in the richness of its foliage, the splendor of its 
 mountain sides or the dazzling whiteness of its long stretch of sandy 
 beach. Sometimes you are in a narrow channel, with great uplifts of 
 brilliant green rising on either hand; then you are carried into an open 
 sea, with only the blue hills of distant islands breaking the serene 
 horizon or clusters of waving palm trees or some lonely coral atoll 
 swimming on the skyline like a mirage on the desert. On one side may 
 be the lofty purple heights of an island mountain 
 
 range, standing out against the angry, ominous black- A J0 IRNEY 
 
 , -, i . i . i_ i FROM LUZON TO 
 
 ness of the storm clouds which seem to be everlast- PANAY 
 
 ingly rioting in imposing tumult around the crests; 
 on the other side may be gleaming strips of beach, with tangles of trop- 
 ical verdure lining them; then long, easy slopes of rich, brilliant moun- 
 tain sides fading away to a jagged skyline of distant blue. There are 
 several volcanoes that are active, and may be marked by the hazy 
 smoke that lifts lazily against the clouds.
 
 190 ILOILO AND THE VIS AY AN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 Just now there are very few vessels venturing on the run, for the 
 Compania Maritima, which is a Spanish concern, has only two of its 
 vessels put under the American flag, and those that carry the Span- 
 ish flag v are afraid to venture out of Manila or Iloilo for fear of the 
 insurgent steamers that lie in hiding among the coves of the archi- 
 pelago waiting to dash out and seize any floating thing that shows the 
 red and yellow at its peak. 
 
 In company with three other correspondents, I started for Iloilo 
 several days ago. Up to this time no American had made the trip 
 since peace was declared, and we had a good deal of curiosity to know 
 how we would be received. The officers of the Butuan, one of the 
 Spanish steamers recently placed under our flag as an insurance 
 against insurgent attack, looked on us with considerable suspicion, for 
 they were all Spanish and in wholesome fear of the governor-general 
 now at Iloilo. 
 
 Mr. Balfour, a young Scotchman, and the manager of the Iloilo 
 branch of the Hongkong and Shanghai bank, was the only other pas- 
 senger on board who spoke English. As the vessel reached the island 
 of Panay and steamed along down the coast he pointed out the posi- 
 tions held by the insurgents. When she reached Concepcion, the place 
 of the farthest advance of the revolutionary forces, the Spaniards 
 looked with anxious eagerness at the distant shore line and the word 
 "insurrecto" occurred with much frequency. It was noticed, too, that 
 with Mr. Balfour there was a disposition to conduct all references to 
 the present operations on the island in a decided undertone. 
 
 Iloilo was reached in the middle of the afternoon. It is a typical 
 tropical Spanish tow r n, situated on a flat, sandy point of land which 
 juts out into the strait. Guimaras island lies two miles to the east- 
 ward, and beyond it were the volcanic mountains of Negros island. 
 A number of Spanish vessels were lying in the harbor and a greater 
 number could be seen in the river. A small boat came out of the river 
 and approached the Butuan. As she stopped alongside, the pilot came 
 aboard and made preparations to take the vessel into the river, but 
 when he found that there were Americans on board he proceeded im- 
 mediately back to the town. There was a long wait, and then we 
 realized that an obstacle had evidently reared its horrid front and
 
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 o
 
 TYPE OF HIGH-CLASS WOMAN OF MANILA 
 
 The women of the Malay tribes are delicate of form and feature and more attractive thai* 
 
 those of Mongolian type of whom many are found in the Philippines. The one 
 
 whose portrait appears herewith has an admixture of Chinese blood.
 
 ILOILO AND THE VIS AY AN ARCHIPELAGO. 195 
 
 that an objection had been advanced regarding our landing. The 
 Spaniards on board, who were delayed in landing, regarded us with 
 pronounced disfavor. The captain then came to us 
 and through Mr. Balfour informed us that we would WHEN AMERICANS 
 
 YVF'Rf 
 
 have to produce passports and official credentials UNWELCOME. 
 from General Otis. As we had none, and, in fact, 
 had never even thought that there might be a necessity for such things, 
 we began to entertain the prospect of being compelled to go back 
 to Manila without landing. 
 
 A steam launch finally came out of the river and bore down on the 
 Butuan. Presently a Spanish officer came aboard, and a long and 
 earnest conversation was held between him and the captain. After 
 some minutes we were informed by Mr. Balfour that it would be neces- 
 sary for us to get permission from the governor-general allowing us to 
 land. He kindly volunteered to see the British consul and endeavor 
 to obtain that permission. The launch then steamed back to the city 
 with him on board, and it was noticed with some interest that armed 
 carabinieros w r ere left on the ship, two posted at each gangway. There 
 was a terrific wait. At nearly 6 o'clock the vessel got permission to 
 proceed, and about 6:30 she drew up at the wharf in Iloilo river. We 
 were then informed that we would be permitted to land and that 
 the governor-general w r ished to see us at once. We were allowed to 
 land our small luggage, and through the courtesy of the port officials 
 it was not examined. 
 
 Our cards were at once sent to the governor and we w r ere asked to 
 come to him early in the morning. There were no hotels in town, but the 
 English residents took us in with a kindness and hospitalit} T that over- 
 whelmed us. Early the following morning a small delegation of Amer- 
 icans was ushered into the presence of Governor-General Rios at the 
 official palace. The general is a large man of imposing military pres- 
 ence, and was courteous in the extreme. It was explained through an 
 interpreter that the visitors were American newspaper representatives, 
 who were charmed with the beauty of the islands, and who wished 
 before returning to America to make a trip among the southern islands. 
 The general volunteered every courtesy and offered letters of intro- 
 duction to various governors in Mindanao and the Sulu group, but he
 
 196 ILOILO AND THE VIS AY AN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 explained that steamers were running very irregularly, and that he 
 did not want us to venture into the interior, out of regard for our per- 
 sonal safety. 
 
 Conditions in Iloilo were critical. The inhabitants were almost 
 terror-stricken, for the insurgents were expected to attack within two 
 days. The town was almost defenseless. An old fort, which was 
 ancient a hundred years ago, commanded the harbor, but it spent all 
 its time commanding, for there w r ere no guns mounted in it. A line of 
 stone breastworks extended along the beaches around the town, but 
 they were ridiculous as protection against any force excepting infantry 
 forces, which might attack by swimming across. The river was choked 
 with Spanish steamers that were afraid to venture out under the Span- 
 ish flag. A few troops were scattered through the town, but they 
 were so few and badly organized that they only served to emphasize 
 the fact that the city was practically defenseless. Big 
 bodies of insurgents were known to be advancing from 
 
 THREATENING 
 
 THE CITY. the north and west, and a titanic effort was being 
 made to collect troops sufficient to stop their ad- 
 vances. There were three Spanish gunboats in the river, the Samar, 
 Mindoro and El Cano. The two first named were small and of the same 
 size as the Callao, but the last was much larger. Her engines were in 
 bad order and it was common gossip that if her heaviest guns were 
 fired the shock w r ould shake the ship to pieces. 
 
 The day after our visit to the governor a transport arrived from 
 Paragua having 150 troops. It was learned that General Rios was con- 
 centrating all the Spanish forces of the other islands on Panay, in the 
 hope of preventing the fall of the city before the conclusion of the 
 Paris conference. During the following three days other transports 
 arrived with troops, which were at once sent off to a secret destination. 
 The inhabitants were given to understand that the troops were being 
 sent to relieve other garrisons, but it was found that the} r in reality 
 were being dispatched to Antigue on the west coast, where the in- 
 surgents were advancing. 
 
 The English residents of Iloilo were eagerly hoping for the arrival 
 of American warships, feeling that the presence of an American force 
 would prevent the outbreak and massacre that otherwise would surely
 
 ILOILO AND THE VIS AY AN ARCHIPELAGO. 197 
 
 result. The business interests are all hopeful that the Americans will 
 retain the islands, for they feel that no peace can be expected as long 
 as the Spaniards remain in Iloilo. 
 
 The three large towns of the island of Panay are Iloilo, Molo and 
 Jaro, all of which are bunched together down at the southeastern cor- 
 ner. The first named is the big commercial center, where all the Euro- 
 peans live, and it ranks even as great as Manila in the extent of some 
 of its shipping. Along the river and the quay there are immense go- 
 downs filled with hemp, sugar and copra, and in time of peace there are 
 lines of steamers and sailing schooners constantly running between the 
 town and the great sugar and hemp districts of Negros, Mindanao, 
 Leyte and the coasts of the island of Panay itself. Just now there are 
 only occasional steamers plying back and forth, and these fly some 
 flag other than the Spanish flag. 
 
 The town of Iloilo is not especially interesting, the most attractive 
 thing about it being that it is a little cooler than Manila. The official 
 residence of the present governor-general of the Philippines overlooks 
 the plaza and is not particularly imposing. On the other side of the 
 plaza are the cathedral and the big building occupied by the priests. 
 The chief business houses are all on the Calle Eeal, or chief street of 
 the town, and with only two exceptions are owned by Englishmen or 
 Chinese. The Spanish population is usually connected with the gov- 
 ernment or army in some way, or else work for the English. There are 
 three newspapers the Porvenir de Bisayas, the Eco de Panay and the 
 Heraldo. The Porvenir is the only one that is reputable and fairly 
 trustworthy. The Eco is bitter in the most malig- 
 nant form. On the day we arrived in Iloilo it printed HA)ILO AM) 
 an article stating that the American soldiers in Ma- ATTRACTIONS. 
 nila were bloodthirsty and were killing natives and 
 torturing them with all kinds of barbarity. This has been the kind of 
 news it has printed since the war began. Among many of the natives 
 of Iloilo there is an established belief that the Americans are Indians 
 w r ith long hair and an abnormal thirst for blood. This impression has 
 existed because most of the natives have never seen an American. As 
 a natural consequence of this the members of our party were objects 
 of a good deal of concern and curiosity. In other words, from the time
 
 198 ILOILO AND THE VIS AY AN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 we heard what Americans w r ere supposed to be in the eyes of the 
 natives we felt that we were a sort of "exhibit A," and our object in 
 life was to live down the reputation of our countrymen and show what 
 nice people Americans really are. Mr. Davis and Mr. Bass are not 
 particularly ferocious looking, and I have some hope that history will 
 not record me as one who loves slaughter and gloats over the massacre 
 of innocents. These personal confessions may be excused as having 
 a definite bearing on the story. Therefore, in the history of the world 
 there were probably never before three individuals who so completely 
 embodied all the essentials of peacefulness, good behavior and high 
 and lofty conduct as we did while on exhibition during our mission of 
 enlightenment. 
 
 There are two banks in Iloilo, the Hongkong and Shanghai bank 
 and the Banco Filipina Espanol. The former is of course a branch of 
 the great oriental bank of the same name and is almost as strong as 
 the Bank of England. It is a silver bank, however, all its operations 
 being conducted on that basis. Mr. C. H. Balfour, the manager, is a 
 first cousin of Robert Louis Stevenson and was once stationed in New 
 York city for six months in the interests of the bank. 
 
 .Mr. Balfour had just brought down from Manila 150,000 Mexican 
 dollars on the Buluan. The Spanish authorities examined this ship- 
 ment very closely. For several years there has been a law prohibiting 
 the circulation of Mexican dollars of a later date than 1877, and as 
 among the present shipment were some of a later date for awhile there 
 was great danger that the shipment would be confiscated by the au- 
 thorities. After some discussion, supported by the high standing of 
 Mr. Balfour with the Spaniards, the shipment was released and sent 
 back to Manila. 
 
 There is an English club with a membership of about twenty-five, 
 four or five of whom are Germans, six or eight English and the rest 
 Scotch. Nearly all the Britons in Iloilo happen to be Scotch. Only one 
 cafe of any pretensions could be found, and that is purely a Spanish 
 cafe, where dashing Castilian officers sit ten or twelve hours a day tell- 
 ing how Sagasta ought to have run things. 
 
 About five miles out from Iloilo is Jaro, but it isn't pronounced 
 that way. It sounds as if it were spelled narrow, and for the first day
 
 TLOILO T AND THE VIS AY AN ARCHIPELAGO. 199 
 
 or two I thought people were talking about the English preparatory 
 school. The road out is beautiful with tropical splendor, but the bridge 
 is broken down and one has a good walk in the blazing sunshine before 
 one reaches Jaro. And after a short residence in Iloilo 
 
 TATtO ATVT) TTS 
 
 a person acquires a wholesome fear of the midday sun. 
 
 THURSDAjL 
 
 The local foreign residents w T ere earnest in their warn- MARKET-PLACE. 
 ings against exposure to the sun, and about the first 
 thing that is done when down there is to buy a large sun hat which 
 closely resembles a Hindu pagoda. 
 
 There was the regular Thursday market on in Jaro when we 
 reached the town. A district five or six acres in extent was laid out in 
 irregular lanes of small shelter houses and several hundred natives were 
 thronging up and down these lanes, bargaining and smoking tre- 
 mendous "cigarros." The heat was intense, but in spite of the discom- 
 fort of it the experience was one of the most enjoyable and wonderful we 
 had ever been through. Certain sections were devoted entirely to cloth 
 goods, others to hemp ready to be woven into the cloth, others to fish 
 markets, milk, food supplies, baskets, tobacco and dozens of other native 
 commodities. The people were extremely picturesque, and many of 
 the young girls were very beautiful. It was strange to see how general 
 it was for the women to smoke and to see to w r hat gigantic cigars their 
 fancy ran. The cigars were manufactured as occasion demanded, a roll 
 of tobacco being wound about with a string, and the result was that 
 the extemporized cigar looked like a long, ragged torch. 
 
 The market lasted all during the forenoon and then the throng be- 
 gan to dwindle away. The long rows of bull carts and caromatas scat- 
 tered off through the country, and at 1 o'clock the scene of our financial 
 conquests was quiet and sleepy and the thatched palm roofs of the nipa 
 shelters slumbered in the deadly heat of the midday sun. 
 
 Jaro is where the natives live. It has a population of about 10,000, 
 and there are no Europeans except the Spanish soldiers occupying it. 
 
 Molo w r hich, strange as it may seem, is pronounced as it is spelled 
 lies off from Iloilo in another direction. This is where the mestizos, 
 or half-castes, live. Chinese who have married Indian girls make Molo 
 their home. It is, like Jaro, a large settlement, and a great number of 
 wealthy Chinese have built it up to quite a respectable and substantial
 
 200 ILOILO AND THE VIS AY AN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 appearance. There are a number of factories there where different 
 native fabrics are woven, but the Philippine idea of a factory is not 
 ours. Three or four looms are in a residence, and the women members 
 of the household go out and weave a piece of cloth whenever the mood 
 possesses them. A purchaser desiring a cloth of a particular color can 
 have it made according to his own design. It takes some time, because 
 in this manana land the natives never believe in doing anything to- 
 morrow that can be put off until day after to-morrow. 
 
 Cebu is now the third commercial city of the Philippines and the 
 capital of the island bearing the same name. A line of steamers runs 
 from Iloilo to Cebu in about twenty hours, while a more pretentious 
 line runs from Manila to Cebu direct. For many years this city ranked 
 next to Manila in commercial importance, but Iloilo 
 
 ATVTi 
 
 finally passed it in the race and now stands second. 
 COMMERCIAL 
 IMPORTANCE. However, until the recent insurrection disturbed all 
 
 commerce and agriculture, it was still the shipping 
 center for much of the hemp raised in the Visayan islands. The popu- 
 lation is about 10,000 and the foreign community consists only of 
 agencies of two English, one German and three Spanish business 
 houses. One man holds all the foreign consulates and the business 
 houses represent all the insurance companies and banks as well. 
 
 As the site of the first Spanish settlement in the Philippines Cebu 
 is a place of some historic interest. From 1565 to 1571 it was the cap- 
 ital of a colony. Up to 1759 it continued to have a municipal govern- 
 ment, which was then abolished because there was but one Spaniard 
 in the place capable of being a city councilor, while the mayor had 
 recently been turned out of office for attempting to extort money from 
 a Chinaman by putting his head in the stocks. The municipal govern- 
 ment was not restored until 1890. 
 
 The islands of the Visayan group are more than varied in their 
 characteristics of soil, climate and products. They are near enough 
 one another that navigation for small boats is easy and frequent, 
 even though some of the channels between the islands are rough. 
 Guimaras, for instance, which lies opposite Iloilo across a channel but 
 six miles in width, is extremely healthful. It is rough and hilly, but 
 without high mountains. The whole island is covered with a cap of
 
 ILOILO AND THE VIS AY AN ARCHIPELAGO. 201 
 
 limestone and the soil is apparently poor. Near the sea, cocoanut 
 palms are abundant, and the nuts, with a mild intoxicant made from 
 the sap of the blossom-stalks, are the principal prod- 
 ucts of the little island. The island of Panay itself, FACTS **W* 
 
 THE ISLASD 
 
 one of the larger of the archipelago, has been almost OF p A j^y 
 denuded of the trees which once covered it and in the 
 vicinity of its principal city one finds only sw r amps, cultivated ground, 
 and immense cogonales. The savage tribes have disappeared with the 
 forest, either yielding to civilization or becoming extinct, but in the 
 high mountains to the northwest, which are little explored, some wood- 
 land and some wild men may yet be found. 
 
 There have been no valuable mineral deposits discovered in Panay. 
 The soil is fairly fertile over large areas and in some regions is very 
 rich. There are extensive sugar plantations in the Concepcion dis- 
 trict. Near Capiz large quantities of alcohol are made from the juice 
 of the nipa palm. The blossom-stalk is cut off and the flowing sap 
 caught, placed in large receptacles to ferment and finally distilled. The 
 process is inexpensive and the product of excellent quality. 
 
 Although Cebu is the third city of commercial importance in the 
 islands, there are other native cities, of larger population which are 
 important market towns for agricultural products. Capiz, for in- 
 stance, on the northeast coast of Panay, has a population of more than 
 25,000, with a Spanish colony of nearly 100. 
 
 The next neighbor island to the southeastward of Panay is Negros, 
 the principal towns of which are Dumaguete, Bais and Bacalod. Negros 
 is probably the richest island of its size in the archipelago and the 
 fertile lowlands along the coast are extensively cultivated, although 
 much good land still lies idle. Fine tobacco is grown in the Escalante 
 region, but sugar is the most important as a crop. Although the 
 most primitive methods of cultivating the cane and 
 
 THF 
 
 extracting the juice are commonly employed, there ; 
 
 Or THE 
 
 are a number of fine estates on which comparatively PHILIPPINES. 
 modern machinery is used. 
 
 The most southerly island of the Yisayan group, except the south- 
 ern extremity of Negros itself, is Siquijor, which lies some fifteen miles 
 to the southeast of Dumaguete. One town is named the same as the
 
 202 ILOILO AND THE VIS AY AN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 name of the island and another is called San Antonio, the former on 
 the seashore and the latter on the highest ground in the hills. Like 
 most of the limestone islands of the Philippines, Siquijor is quite free 
 from malaria. Inasmuch as it produces a large quantity of excellent 
 food products and the people are notable in the Philippines for their 
 industry, it is a somewhat desirable place for a short visit. 
 
 The island of Cebu lies directly east of Negros. The city, which 
 is the capital of the island, has been a bishop's see, as well as the resi- 
 dence of the governor and a general of brigade commanding the gov- 
 ernors of all the Visayan islands. Cebu has no high mountains, but 
 the surface of its interior is broken by steep and rugged hills. The 
 island has been almost denuded of trees, and large areas are grown up 
 in cogonales. The soil, which is often shallow, lies over limestone rocks. 
 There is very little malaria, and the island is, on the whole, exception- 
 ally healthful. There are no wild tribes in Cebu. Brigands infest some 
 districts, but as a rule the people are orderly and noted for their ami- 
 ability and hospitality. 
 
 Samar, another of the larger Visayans and, in fact, the third isl- 
 and in size of all the Philippines, has for its capital a town called 
 Catbalogan. It is a small, clean town lying on the 
 SAMAR, THE nor th shore of a fine bay on the west coast. Its main 
 
 O SIZE. business is the buying, curing and baling of hemp. 
 
 There are several fairly good shops in the place, but 
 it is difficult to obtain food there, as fruit, poultry and eggs are scarce 
 and dear. Fish is very abundant, however, and milk can be obtained 
 daily a rare luxury in the Philippines. There is a fine beach in front 
 of the town where the surf bathing is delightful. Hemp is the chief 
 product of the island and is raised in considerable quantities. There 
 js also an immense amount of valuable timber still standing. The isl- 
 and is without high mountains, but there are several rivers of some 1 im- 
 portance. The climate is healthful. 
 
 These are the islands included in the Visayan republic, organized 
 with Iloilo as a capital, when the Spanish commander there surrendered 
 his troops to an insurgent force.
 
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 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 PALAWAN AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS. 
 
 The Sulu Sea and Its Boundaries The Journey to Palawan The Town of Puerto 
 Princesa A Gift from the Sultan of Borneo Wars with the Moros Efforts to 
 Induce Immigration Into Palawan Establishment of a Penal Settlement 
 Manners of Life in Palawan Transported Convicts for Servants The Savage 
 Native Peoples Interesting Facts About the Tagbanuas Products of the 
 Island A Discouraging Effort to Develop Agriculture. 
 
 FAR to the southward of Luzon lies the Sulu sea, forming a great, 
 diamond-shaped body of water, of which the angles virtually coin- 
 cide with the points of the compass. The southwestern side of the 
 figure is bounded by British North Borneo; the southeastern by the Sulu 
 archipelago, where the Moros have their stronghold, and by the island 
 of Mindanao, second in size of the Philippines; the northeast by Negros, 
 Panay and Mindoro; and the northwestern by the island of Palawan 
 and its neighbors. 
 
 This latter island, the fifth in size of all the Philippines, with the 
 smaller ones adjoining it to the north and south, forms one of the 
 greater divisions of the whole archipelago, known by the Spaniards 
 under the name of Islas Adjacentes. Palawan is the native name for 
 the island and the one w r hich is considered geographically correct, al- 
 though the Spaniards long have dubbed it Paragua. The other isl- 
 ands properly included in the same general division are Busuanga, 
 Calamianes, Culion, Nengalao, Linapacan, Cuyo and Dumaran in the 
 northeast, and Balabac in the southwest. 
 
 The traveler for the Islas Adjacentes sails from Manila on one of 
 the inter-island steamboats which carry the mail, passengers and 
 freight throughout the archipelago. The first stop in the journey usu- 
 ally is at the Calamianes islands. The same name is applied to one 
 
 205
 
 206 PALAWAN AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS. 
 
 of the provinces, which includes the numerous islands lying between 
 Palawan, Mindoro and Panay. Cuyo is the capital of 
 
 HO IV TO 
 
 the same province and the second port of the journey. 
 
 PALAWAN 
 
 FROM MANILA.' Here, strangely enough, the population is composed 
 almost altogether of women, who consequently monop- 
 olize all the trade. They come off to the passenger steamers with fruit, 
 provisions and curios and a man is seldom seen by the traveler. It is 
 so difficult to gain a livelihood in this island that the boys and young 
 men make their escape to more favorable islands as soon as they are 
 big enough to shift for themselves, and the result is that ninety per 
 cent of the population are women. 
 
 Palawan is one of the less known and less settled islands of the 
 Philippine archipelago, of which, except for some little neighbors to 
 the southward, it is the westernmost. The island is nearly 300 miles 
 in length, its breadth ranging from six to thirty-five miles, with an 
 average of twenty miles. The capital is Puerto Princesa, w T hich is situ- 
 ated on the eastern side about midway between the northern and south- 
 ern extremities. The town is a fairly prosperous place, situated on a 
 good-sized bay, which affords safe anchorage. There is a lighthouse 
 w r hich marks the entrance to the excellent harbor and a little slip for 
 repairing vessels. Two Spanish gunboats have made headquarters 
 there and as a result the place has been known as a naval station. 
 
 The island of Palawan formerly belonged to the sultan of Borneo. 
 Early in the eighteenth century the Spaniards began to settle its north- 
 ern end, and in order to protect them from the warlike Moros who 
 lived in its southern third, a garrison was established. After being 
 maintained for a few years, it was left without the necessary supplies 
 and was finally abandoned after many of the troops had perished 
 miserably of hunger and want. A few years later 
 tbe sultan S ave the island to the Spanish. Troops 
 OF BORNEO. were sen t under a captain to take formal possession. 
 All of them died ultimately, some from eating rotten 
 food and others in war with the Moros. Still later a third garrison 
 was established at Tay Tay. At first a little settlement grew up around 
 it, which ultimately shared the fate of its predecessor. 
 
 After centuries of effort to settle the island and protect the set-
 
 PALAWAN AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS. 207 
 
 tiers, a renewed attempt was made on the part of the Spanish authori- 
 ties. In 1885 it was provided by royal order that military posts should 
 be established in Palawan for the protection of prospective settlers. 
 All Spanish subjects who should migrate from Spain, as well as all 
 civilized natives who should settle in these islands were promised ex- 
 emption from the payment of tribute for six years. They were also 
 offered free transportation to their destination and were provided with 
 seed and implements. 
 
 As this offer failed to have the desired effect, it was later provided 
 that the governors of neighboring provinces should promote the volun- 
 tary migration of native families by still more generous offers. Twenty- 
 five families were to be sent from each of the neighboring provinces 
 annually. All debts owed the government by these families were to be 
 canceled. They were to receive free transportation for themselves and 
 their cattle, to be given seven acres of land each, and practically sup- 
 ported during the first six months after their arrival. The same royal 
 order provided for the building of highways and the opening of free 
 ports, but nothing came of it all. A few little rnili- 
 
 TO 
 
 tary outposts were established in Palawan, but no 
 
 COLONIZE 
 highways were built, no free ports opened, nor did THE ISLAND. 
 
 any voluntary immigrants arrive. Either it was 
 omitted to provide funds for carrying out the tempting plans of settle- 
 ment, or if provided the money was turned into channels altogether 
 different from what had been intended. 
 
 When the effort to stimulate voluntary immigration into Palawan 
 failed, the Spanish continued to foster their policy of providing settlers 
 by force. Puerto Princesa for a long time has been a penal settlement. 
 From other parts of the colony convicts are sent to serve their term 
 in the island. As in most other penal settlements, when their sen- 
 tences expire they have no money to pay for a passage back to their 
 homes, so they make the best of it by. remaining as colonists. While 
 they are serving their terms in Puerto JPrincesa, they are obliged to 
 work on government enterprises of various sorts. Formerly a sugar 
 plantation was maintained to furnish them employment, and when that 
 was abandoned they were set to clearing timber land near the city. 
 
 As is to be expected, the convicts have suffered the same abuses
 
 208 PALAWAN AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS. 
 
 that have been the curse of other penal settlements, aggravated per- 
 haps by the fact that in this case the administration was Spanish. 
 However, even here in the Philippines, there are no sufferings to re- 
 late more dreadful than those which cursed the hapless convicts of 
 the British penal colonies in Australasia. The convicts at Puerto 
 Princesa suffer a very high death rate, amounting sometimes to about 
 twenty-five per cent yearly, as a result of their hard labor, poor accom- 
 modation, insufficient food and ill treatment. 
 
 Manners of life in Palawan, even in the capital of the island, are 
 essentially primitive. The servants are all convicts, who can be hired 
 from the government, or by a special concession to 
 "trusties," men who have a certain degree of liberty 
 
 n T T v 
 SERVANTS. ' mav be obtained. Their houses are poor, furniture 
 
 scanty, and the markets provide an exceedingly lim- 
 ited bill of fare, consisting chiefly of rice and fish. The water supply is 
 contaminated by surface drainage, so that rain-w r ater preserved in large 
 tanks must be employed. A large part of the death rate of the con- 
 victs must be charged against the water provided for them. 
 
 The savage native people of Palawan include various tribes, some 
 of them quite distinct from those found in the other islands of the 
 archipelago. In the southern part Moros are found, in the northern 
 mountain region Battaks, and in the central portion and along the 
 northern coast Tagbanuas. The latter are commonly believed to be a 
 half-breed race, a mixture of the Negritos and some Mala}' tribe. They 
 are quite dark and their hair is inclined to be curly. Under the advice 
 and direction of a Spanish engineer who was constructing a highway 
 across the island, they have established a village called Tagbarus, in 
 which they show a surprising capacity for civilization. They have actu- 
 ally organized a form of local government under his advice and started 
 small plantations of rice, bananas and cocoanut. 
 
 The Tagbanuas of the remoter parts of the island are even more in- 
 teresting than their partially civilized brethren. The} 7 are friendly to 
 strangers and by no means as suspicious as most savage tribes. Their 
 village houses are built of palm and bamboo of quite small size and 
 are built high in the air, on stilts of bamboo, instead of being within 
 six or eight feet of the ground. They have their own simple alphabet,
 
 PALAWAN AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS. 209 
 
 which is in common use, using fresh joints of bamboo in place of paper 
 for their writings. The letters are scratched on the smooth surface in 
 vertical columns. In former times the Tagbanuas 
 were governed by a ruler who held office for life. If CIVILIZATION 
 he proved a good chief his eldest son was allowed to TAGBANUAS. 
 succeed him; if not, a new one was chosen by the will 
 of the people. At present, however, there is no ruler for the whole 
 tribe. The affairs of each community are administered by a council of 
 old men who render justice according to native conditions and their 
 own ideas. If a person is charged with a serious crime, accused and 
 accuser are conducted by the old men to the bank of some deep pool, 
 and there in the presence of relatives and friends the two dive beneath 
 the water at the same instant. The* one who remains under the longer 
 is held to have spoken the truth. 
 
 It is in this island of Palawan that the most valuable deposits of 
 dammar are found. Dammar is a vegetable gum which exudes from a 
 large tree and has considerable value in commerce for various uses. 
 It is abundant in Mindanao as well as Palawan. In some places there 
 are extensive deposits which have run into the earth in bygone years or 
 have been gradually covered with accumulating leaf mold. These are 
 known as dammar "mines" and will be the source of considerable in- 
 come and profit to some one who may attempt a systematic working 
 of the deposits, something that has never 3 T et been done. The dammar 
 deposits of Palawan are near the coast and the yearly exports from the 
 archipelago vary from 200 to 500 tons, in spite of the crudity of the 
 methods employed in gathering it. 
 
 Palawan was the scene of one of the numerous melancholy failures 
 which have resulted from the attempt to develop the valuable latent 
 resources of the Philippines. A former governor who tried unsuccess- 
 fully to interest his countrymen in the remarkable possibilities of that 
 island, finally resigned his official position and 
 secured a concession of 30,000 acres of land. His fran- ^ 
 
 UISCOLKAlnKD 
 
 chise permitted him to work mines, cut timber and INDUSTRY. 
 cultivate the soil. At once he found it necessary to 
 employ Chinese labor to clear away the forest, whereupon his govern- 
 ment refused him permission to employ aliens. Next his countrymen ac-
 
 210 PALAWAN AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS. 
 
 cused him of trying to interest the foreigners in his concession, suggest- 
 ing that he meant eventually to declare Palawan independent territory. 
 The result was that such additional restrictions were imposed upon 
 him that his concession became absolutely worthless. An experiment 
 station which he established furnished ample proof of the wonderful 
 fertility of the soil and the possibilities of his concession if he had been 
 treated with a liberal spirit. Under American dominance, with a 
 change in this condition, these opportunities will be utilized to the 
 undoubted profit of some one. 
 
 Any estimate of the natural resources of the Philippine islands and 
 the possibility of profit to energetic immigrants must be incomplete 
 because of just such facts as the foregoing. The Spanish policy has 
 been a handicap altogether insurmountable. The honest man could 
 not face the corruption that surrounded him and compete with it. The 
 dishonest man, however willing he might be to bribe and use improper 
 influences, would find the demands upon him growing more and more 
 as his ability to pay more increased, so that in the end there would be 
 little left for him. 
 
 Americans always have been a pioneering people, accustomed to 
 endure hardships without complaint and resourceful enough to create 
 comfort for themselves even in the wilderness. It is this fact that 
 justifies the belief that the development of the remarkable latent 
 resources and varied possibilities of profit in the Philippines will bo 
 rapid and constant as soon as peace settles down upon the islands and 
 a regime of law and order, with assurance of protection to life and 
 property, is established.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 MINDANAO, ITS RESOURCES AND CONDITIONS. 
 
 The Least Known of the Philippines Explorations by Jesuit Missionaries Extent 
 of Spanish Authority General Weyler's Effort to Subdue the Moros Fatal 
 Results of His Expedition Failure Announced as Victory Undeveloped Agri- 
 cultural and Mineral Resources of the Island Lakes and River Systems 
 Forests and Their Products Mountain Chains and Volcanoes The Port of 
 Zamboanga and Its Possibilities for Ocean Commerce Native Villages and 
 Their Characteristics The Native House of the Filipino How the Native 
 Villages Have Been Governed Under Spanish Rule The "Gobernadorcillo" 
 and His Important Functions The Rewards of His Office. 
 
 M 
 
 INDANAO, the largest island of the Philippine archipelago 
 except Luzon, and the most southerly except the Sulu group, 
 has been the least explored by the Spanish and the slowest 
 to subjugate, in spite of the great loss of life and effort that have been 
 expended in the attempt. The island has an area of 37,500 square 
 miles. Its savage peoples, high mountains and dense forests have 
 made exploration difficult and until within a short time little has been 
 known of its interior. Of late years the priests of the Jesuit missions 
 have pushed their explorations with great courage and energy until 
 they have gathered data for a fairly complete and accurate map. 
 
 These mission explorers recognize twenty-four distinct tribes of 
 people, of whom seventeen are pagan, six Mohammedan Moros, and 
 the other Christian Visayans, who have come in from the northern 
 islands and settled at various points, especially along the north coast. 
 Most of the wild tribes are of Malayan origin, but 
 there still remain in Mindanao a considerable num- 
 ber of the little black Negritos, with whom some of MINDANAO. 
 the Malay tribes have intermarried. The warlike 
 Moros are especially dreaded. They are found along the southern 
 and southwestern coasts and near the large rivers and inland lakes. 
 
 211
 
 212 MINDANAO, ITS RESOURCES AND CONDITIONS. 
 
 Although the island is nominally divided into provinces, Spanish au- 
 thority has been effective, as a matter of fact, only in narrow and more 
 or less isolated strips along the sea and near a few of the rivers which 
 afford the only means of communication with the interior. 
 
 Professor Worcester relates an interesting circumstance connected 
 with Spanish control in the islands, which introduces as its chief actor 
 one whose name has been very familiar to Americans. He says: 
 
 "In Mindanao there are no roads and the futility of attempting 
 to move troops inland was beautifully demonstrated by General Wey- 
 ler during our second visit. For some reason best known to himself, 
 he saw fit to send in an expedition against the Moros. It was very 
 broadly hinted by his countrymen that he had an itching for the 
 rank of marshal and hoped to win it. Whatever the cause, all the 
 available forces in the archipelago were concentrated and inarched into 
 the Mindanao forest. An officer who accompanied the expedition told 
 me that the enemy simply ran away and they were never able to over- 
 take them, while eighty per cent of their own men were disabled by 
 starvation and fever. Although the starvation might have been avoided, 
 it is tolerably certain that the fever was inevitable. The mortality 
 was certainly terrible. We saw the wreck of the expedition come back, 
 and in spite of the fact that the priests from all the 
 
 A r rv r pTr ( * f 
 
 towns near Zamboanga were called in, they could 
 
 \\ EYLiEIi 
 
 UNDERTAKING. no ^ snnve the soldiers as fast as they died. Sick 
 men were sent away by the ship load. Meanwhile 
 Weyler was directing operations from a very safe distance, spending 
 much of his time on a dispatch boat. We learned later that several 
 glorious victories were announced at Manila and were celebrated with 
 processions, fireworks and great rejoicings." 
 
 The natural characteristics of Mindanao are such as to make it 
 interesting alike to the traveler and the possible settler. Its resources 
 are, perhaps, less developed than those of any other of the larger 
 islands of the archipelago. The soil, especially in the river and lake 
 regions, is exceedingly fertile and repa} r s abundantly the labor ex- 
 pended upon it. Valuable mineral wealth is known to exist, although 
 few details are recorded. Gold is found in paying quantities at a num- 
 ber of points, among others Misamis and Surigao, where the natives
 
 The Filipinos have no quarrel with the Catholic church nor with the priests of their own 
 race. Their animosity is directed against the Spanish priests, whom they charge with im- 
 morality, Vicious habits and an overwhelming greed for the priestly fees.
 
 MESTIZO CHILDREN IN MANILA 
 
 Technically the word Mestizo has a narrower significance, but in practice in the Philip- 
 pines it is applied to any half caste person. These of the picture are a mixture of Chinese 
 and Indian. Spanish and Filipino half-castes form a lar^e element in the population.
 
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 MINDANAO, ITS RESOURCES AND CONDITIONS. 217 
 
 have worked the diggings profitably by their crude methods for many 
 years. Misamis is a port on the north shore of the island in Iligan 
 bay, while Surigao is at the northeastern extremity of the island. 
 
 The name of Mindanao signifies "man of the lake," the natives 
 explaining that the name was given because the island is so well 
 watered. Its river and lake systems are even more important than 
 those of Luzon. The largest river, the Butuan, which rises near the 
 southeastern extremity of the island, runs north through a great valley 
 of remarkable fertility, traversing the whole island 
 and flowing into the sea that bounds the north shore. 
 The Bio Grande, on the other hand, rises near the THE 
 north coast and flows south and west, while there 
 are other rivers of lesser importance. Both of the rivers named have 
 their sources and tributaries in large lakes and there are many others 
 which find an exit to the sea by smaller streams. 
 
 The forests of the islands are of great extent, the splendid trees 
 including many of great commercial value. Beside the valuable prod- 
 ucts of the forest which Mindanao has in common with most of the 
 other islands, gutta percha is abundant in certain localities. 
 
 The scenery of Mindanao is notably fine. There are several moun- 
 tain chains separating the river valleys and the peaks include a number 
 of active volcanoes. The most famous of these is Mount Apo near 
 the port of Devao on the south coast. The summit of this volcano rises 
 to a height of nearly 9,000 feet. Extinct volcanoes are numerous. 
 
 The oldest of the Spanish settlements in the island is the impor- 
 tant town of Zamboanga, which is the capital of a province bearing 
 the same name. This port is situated at the extreme southwestern 
 point of the island and consequently nearest the Sulu archipelago and 
 the domain of the Moros. It was taken and fortified in the early days 
 as a place of operation against the Mohammedans and still has an old 
 stone fort to which the inhabitants might retreat if attacked. 
 
 The town is large and clean, with a pier extending into moderately 
 deep water, although vessels of large size have to lie in the outer 
 harbor. The steamers sailing from the Australian ports of Queensland 
 for Hongkong and Yokohama, pass between Mindanao and Borneo on 
 their direct course, not many miles from Zamboanga. In former times
 
 218 MINDANAO, ITS RESOURCES AND CONDITIONS. 
 
 these steamers made port at this city as a regular stopping point on 
 their journey, but the excessive harbor fees and aggravating cus- 
 toms restrictions long ago caused them to shun it. 
 A FUTURE PORT r j g on of ^ Q more notable lanes of passenger 
 
 IMPORTANCE. anc * fright traffic between Australia and Asia. Un- 
 der an American regime Zamboanga no doubt would 
 become a port of call, and a welcome one, for these same vessels, and 
 it would be an important city in the traffic of the archipelago. 
 
 This part of the island of Mindanao has been quite thoroughly 
 under Spanish control and in the neighborhood of Zamboanga are vil- 
 lages of decent civilized natives, resting content under the alien author- 
 ity. Such villages are picturesque and interesting to the traveler, 
 although they offer no accommodations for one who is exacting. Every 
 such village has a church, which is the most pretentious edifice in the 
 place, a house for the priest, and an institution of the islands known 
 as the tribunal. This is a sort of town-hall where the head men of 
 the village meet to transact business. It contains a pair of stocks or 
 some other contrivance for the detention of prisoners. When troops 
 are quartered there, the place is used as a barracks, and most impor- 
 tant of all to the stranger, any traveler who chooses to do so has a right 
 to put up there. Hanging on the wall is ordinarily to be found a list 
 of the proper local prices for rice, fowl, eggs, meat and other articles 
 of food, as well as for horse hire, buffalo hire, carriers, etc. The object 
 of this list is to protect strangers from extortion. 
 
 Here in the neighborhood of Zamboanga is an excellent place to 
 observe the manners of life of the civilized natives and the relationship 
 they have held to the Spanish authorities of the Philippines. The 
 native houses there are like those of the poorer civilized natives 
 throughout the archipelago. 
 
 The typical Philippine house rests on four or more heavy timbers, 
 
 which are firmly set in the ground, and its floor is raised from five 
 
 to ten feet in the air. There is not a nail or a peg in the 
 
 HE whole structure. The frame is of bamboo, tied to- 
 
 ARE CONSTRUCTED. S p ther w r ith rattan. The sides and roof are usually of 
 
 nipa palm, although the former may be made by 
 
 splitting green bamboos, pounding the halves flat, and then weaving
 
 MINDANAO, ITS RESOURCES AND CONDITIONS. 219 
 
 them together, while if nipa is very scarce, the roof may be thatched 
 with the long grass called cogon. The floor usually is made of bamboo 
 strips with their convex sides up. They are tied firmly in place in such 
 a way that wide cracks are left between. The windows are provided 
 with swinging shades w r hich can be propped open during the day. One 
 has to climb a ladder to enter the house. Often there is but one room 
 for cooking, eating and sleeping. The cooking is done over an open 
 fire built on a heap of earth in one corner. In the better dwellings 
 there is a place partitioned off for cooking, usually just at the head 
 of the ladder, while the body of the house is divided into two or more 
 rooms. 
 
 Native houses of this sort have much to recommend them. If 
 shaken down by an earthquake, or blown over by a typhoon, no one 
 gets hurt, for the materials used are too light to do harm when they 
 fall. The ventilation is perfect and the air keeps much cooler than 
 in a tightly closed building. Wealthy natives sometimes build houses 
 of boards with galvanized iron roofs and limestone foundations, but 
 they are very much more expensive and decidedly less comfortable 
 than the humbler dwellings. 
 
 The system of government of the native villages throughout Min- 
 danao, and as well in the other islands of the archipelago where Span- 
 ish rule has extended, is of considerable interest. It will be of greater 
 interest to watch the development of American influence and author- 
 ity in the islands and to see to what extent the Spanish system is fol- 
 lowed. 
 
 A gobernadorcillo, literally "little governor," is to be found in 
 every Philippine town or village and he is a very important person- 
 age, lie is always a native or a half-caste and is the 
 
 SYSTFlVf OF 
 
 local representative of the governor of his province, , 
 
 from whom he receives instruction and to whom he GOVERNMENT 
 
 sends reports. His headquarters are at the tribunal. 
 
 He is addressed as capitan during his term of office, and after his 
 
 successor has been chosen is known as a capitan pasado. 
 
 He settles all local questions except those which assume a serious 
 legal aspect and therefore properly belong to the justice of the peace; 
 but his most important duty is to see that the taxes of his town are col-
 
 220 MINDANAO, ITS RESOURCES AND CONDITIONS. 
 
 lected, and to turn them over to the administrator of the province. 
 He is personally responsible for these taxes, and must obtain them 
 from his "cabezas" or make good the deficit. He is obliged to aid the 
 guardia civil in the capture of criminals, and to assist the parish friar 
 in promoting the interests of the church, frequently, also, in advancing 
 his private ends. Finally, he is at the beck and call of all the officials 
 who visit his town. He often has to entertain them at his own expense, 
 and not infrequently finds it advisable to make them presents. He 
 is liable at any time to be called to the capital of the province, but 
 is given no compensation for the cost of traveling or the loss of time. 
 If he does not speak Spanish, he must employ a clerk (directorcillo). 
 
 There is a great deal of writing to be done at the tribunal, and, 
 as the allowance for clerk-hire is usually utterly insufficient, the gober- 
 nadorcillo must make up the difference. In return for all this he is 
 allowed a salary of two dollars per month, and is permitted to carry 
 a cane! If he does not "squeeze" his fellow r -townsmen or steal public 
 funds he is apt to come out badly behind. 
 
 While the office is nominally filled by election every two years, 
 the elective system is of such a nature that service can readily be made 
 compulsor}-. Wealthy men are chosen for the place, if any such can 
 be found, and are often kept in office for years, sorely against their 
 will. Yet there is nothing quite so dear to the heart of the average 
 Philippine native as a little authority over his fellows, and in spite of 
 the numerous drawbacks, the position is sometimes earnestly sought. 
 
 The families of every town are divided into groups of from forty 
 
 to sixty, each under a "cabeza de Barangay," who is responsible for 
 
 their taxes. If he cannot get them from the people 
 
 TAXATION ANT) ^e must pav them out of his own pocket. Excuses are 
 
 ITS PECULIAR 
 
 FEATURES useless. For obvious reasons, men or means are 
 chosen for this position, and, though nominally 
 elected every two years, they are actually kept in office as long as they 
 have anything to lose, and sometimes longer. 
 
 The gobernadorcillo has a "ministry," consisting of the first and 
 second tenientes (lieutenants), who take his place in his absence; other 
 tonicntes having charge of outlying districts; and chiefs of police, 
 plantations and cattle.
 
 MINDANAO, ITS RESOURCES AND CONDITIONS. 221 
 
 At the tribunal is maintained a small force of cuadrilleros, who 
 perform police duty, and are supposed to defend the town against 
 bandits and the like. 
 
 A man who has been elected tenieute or gobernadorcillo, or who 
 has served ten years as a cabeza de Baraugay, is numbered among 
 the "headmen" of the place. 
 
 The headmen meet at the tribunal from time to time, and discuss 
 public affairs with great gravity. They assemble every Sunday morn- 
 ing, and, headed by the goberuadorcillo, and frequently also by a band 
 playing very lively airs, they march to the convento and escort the 
 friar to the church, where they all attend mass. 
 
 The state dress of the headmen is quite picturesque. Their white 
 shirts dangle outside of their pantaloons after the Philippine fashion 
 and over them they wear tight-fitting jackets without tails, which reach 
 barely to their waists. When the jacket is buttoned, it causes the shirt 
 to stand out in a frill, producing a most grotesque effect. 
 
 A traveler, in speaking about the villagers of Ayala, in Mindanao, 
 says: "We were rather touched by their never-failing hospitality. The 
 Philippine native seems always ready to kill his last 
 fowl for a stranger or share with him his last pot of HOSPITALITY 
 rice. When we stopped at a hut and asked for a FILIPINOS 
 drink, its inmates were loth to offer us w r ater in the 
 cocoanut-shell cups which served their own purpose and hunted up 
 and washed old tumblers or even sent to some neighbors to borrow 
 them. With a glass of water they always gave us a lump of coarse 
 brown sugar to stimulate thirst, an entirely unnecessary precaution."
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 Geography of This Island Group Source of the Sulu Mohammedans Civil Warfare 
 in the Archipelago Two Centuries of Piracy Unavailing Spanish Efforts to 
 Control the Sulus Zamboanga Fortified Spanish Garrisons in the Islands 
 Authority of the Sultan of Sulu General Arolas and His Excellent Record as 
 Governor Spanish Governor Murdered by the Sultan The Island of Tawi 
 Tawi Condition of the Slave Trade A Problem for the United States to Solve. 
 
 GEOGRAPHICALLY the Sulu archipelago of the Philippines is a 
 group of 150 islands, the chain extending from southwest to 
 northeast between Borneo and Mindanao. The last Spanish 
 report names 150 islands, of which ninety-five are inhabited, besides 
 several hundred islets and rocks. On one side of the chain is the Sulu 
 sea and on the other side the Celebes sea. This chain is likely to play 
 a very prominent part in the annals of American history in the Philip- 
 pines if the necessity rises for us to attempt their political subjugation 
 and pacification. 
 
 The history of the Sulus is the history of the Moros, for there is 
 their stronghold: After the Spanish discovery of the Philippines, as the 
 invaders endeavored to extend their sovereignty southwestward from 
 Mindanao, they found as an obstacle in their way the settlements of 
 Sulus. Strangely enough, however, there was in the early days of 
 Philippine history a short alliance between the opposing forces, on 
 which is still based the claim of Spanish sovereignty over the Sulus. 
 The Mohammedans reached this chain of islands as a result of 
 civil warfare in Borneo. Two sultans who were brothers were in con- 
 flict in that great island, and the unsuccessful one, with his followers, 
 fled across the channel into the Sulu islands. It was another exodus 
 of the same sort from Borneo that brought the Mohammedan element 
 into Palawan and the adjacent islands. This defeated sovereign,
 
 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO. 223 
 
 establishing his capital at the town of Sulu, or Jolo, as the Spanish 
 name it, began a Mohammedan civilization which rapidly became a 
 strong power in that part of the world. A cousin 
 of this sultan settled on Basilan, which is the nearest MORO PLOTS 
 
 A \ll 
 
 to Mindanao of the Sulu chain, and soon became its COUNTERPLOTS. 
 sole ruler. He was loyal to the sultan at first, but 
 in time plotted against him and attacked the capital city unsuccess- 
 fully. After many fights on land and sea he retired again to his own 
 possessions in Basilan. 
 
 Then the sultan himself went to Manila and pledged his vassalage 
 to the Spanish on condition that they would help him subjugate his 
 rebellious cousin. The promise was promptly made, but the squadron 
 which was equipped under the agreement was delayed several months 
 beyond the promised time before it sailed southward. In the mean- 
 time the sultan, tired of waiting, attacked the rebels and routed them 
 completely, although he was himself killed in the battle. The Span- 
 iards in due season arrived at Sulu, and, not finding the sultan, turned 
 and went back to Manila. They preserved the treaty with great care 
 and upon this has been based the Spanish claim of sovereignty over 
 the Sulu sultanate. 
 
 The next ruler, however, Adasaolan, extended his influence far and 
 wide. He developed the archipelago, made alliances with the Moham- 
 medan king of Mindanao and the chief of northern 
 Borneo, and compelled all his subjects and tribu- SPAMSH 
 
 DEFEATED BY 
 
 tanes to adopt the Koran at the point of the sword. MOROS. 
 
 He built the first mosque in the city of Sulu and re- 
 ceived honors and titles all the way from Turkey, from the head of the 
 Mohammedan church, the Sublime Porte, in recognition of his services 
 to the faith. It would seem that his claim of sovereignty and his posses- 
 sion of the territory gave him a better title to the islands than the treaty 
 of Manila gave to the Spanish. Nevertheless, in 1595 the Spaniards 
 sent an expedition to take possession of their property and incidentally 
 to spread the gospel among the heathen. Nearly all their officers were 
 killed, half the men incapacitated by sickness and wounds, while the 
 war-ship which carried the expedition was so shattered that it was 
 able to get only as far as Cebu on the return journey.
 
 224 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 From this time on, the Sulu pirates carried their daring incur- 
 sions throughout the waters of the archipelago, hardly interrupted 
 until English men-of-war suppressed the evil in the present century. 
 Their pirate craft frequently sailed into the neighborhood of the city 
 of Manila and actually captured trading vessels within sight of the 
 peninsula of Cavite. At one time the Sulu pirates held Bohol, Cebu, 
 Negros, Leyte and even a part of Panay under tribute. When com- 
 munities refused to pay tribute they were attacked by these daring 
 invaders, their men slain, their houses burned, their property looted, 
 and their wives and daughters taken as slaves away to the south. 
 
 Undoubtedly the Madrid government did the best it could under 
 the circumstances. It appropriated large sums of money for men-of- 
 war, forts, weapons and ammunition, and directed 
 
 ^fi tne Philippine officials to exterminate the piratical 
 
 Or r ILL-HOLDERS 
 
 ROB SPAIN. communities. But the money was diverted into the 
 pockets of colonial office-holders. Thousands of in- 
 offensive natives were slaughtered in the wars, while the governors 
 wrote home accounts of imaginary victories and glowing descriptions 
 of the blessings of peace. At the end of their terms they came back 
 rich for life. 
 
 The most pretentious effort made by the Spanish to terminate 
 the constant warfare between Spain and Sulu was the establishment 
 of a settlement at Zamboanga, at the extreme southeast point of Min- 
 danao. Here they built a walled city, constructed strong forts and 
 made it a naval station and arsenal second only to Cavite. Directly 
 opposite Basilan, and in such close proximity to the Sulu archipelago, 
 it provided a fine base of operations, offensive and defensive. But so 
 little care was taken of the sanitation of the place that it soon became 
 known as the sepulchre of Spain. The absence of sewage and sanita- 
 tion, combined with the heat and moisture, developed malarial dis- 
 eases whose deadliness astonished even the Spaniards. Of one garrison 
 of a thousand men, 850 died in a single year. 
 
 In 1750 the governor-general of the Philippines sent a large expe- 
 dition from Manila to attack Sulu, but the fleet returned to Zam- 
 boanga having accomplished nothing. The islands were continually 
 ravaged by the Mohammedan sultan. At last, in 1770, there was a
 
 
 h 
 
 u -ri 
 
 w s i 
 
 o S^ 
 
 f"" 1 5 . 
 
 H ii 
 
 H 5-| 
 O f 
 
 P 'H 
 
 t i c 5 
 5 S- 
 
 P = r> 
 in - ^
 
 JOHN CHINAMAN IN MANILA 
 
 The Chinese made several warlike invasions of the Philippines without success before they 
 
 gave up that policy. But their peaceful invasion has been highly successful. Thousands 
 
 of them live in Manila, where they are prosperous bankers, merchants and mechanics.
 
 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO. 227 
 
 tacit agreement for peace between Sulu and Spain, because both par- 
 ties were exhausted with warfare. From that time until 1851 pirates 
 occasionally ravaged Spanish cities and Spanish gunboats destroyed 
 Sulu craft, but nothing amounting to war occurred. 
 
 In the latter year troubles began again and for twenty-five years 
 affairs got more and more intolerable. The bold ravages of the sultan 
 throughout the archipelago compelled another 
 
 Spanish expedition in 1876, which destroyed several 
 
 BECOMES 
 forts and killed many natives, but lost more men INTOLERABLE. 
 
 than it destroyed. Nevertheless, it brought about a 
 temporary peace. The sultan admitted the sovereignty of Spain over 
 the Sulu domain and Spain induced Great Britain and Germany to 
 sign a protocol recognizing the treaty. In 1880 a British company 
 colonized a large tract of land in Borneo, recognizing the suzerainty 
 of the sultan of Sulu. Spain made a vigorous protest, but the British 
 government decided in favor of the sultan. After some negotiations, 
 Spain gave up all claim to land in Borneo belonging to the Sulu sul- 
 tanate. 
 
 In 1887 insurrection again broke out in the islands and in Min- 
 danao itself. The Spanish government sent its fleet at post haste to 
 the seat of disorder and also forwarded re-enforcements for the vari- 
 ous garrisons which had been established in the enemy's country. A 
 few months after this insurrection -was put down another broke out. 
 In 1888, however, comparative peace was established throughout the 
 Sulu archipelago and since that time the Spaniards have been in legal 
 possession of the country. They have some ten garrisons scattered 
 at different points throughout the islands. Outside, of the coasts they 
 have no authority or power whatever. The sultan of Sulu rules the 
 same as ever, and the native, not Spanish, laws are observed. The 
 population of the group is estimated at 150,000, but that is probably 
 less rather than greater than the actual population. As a matter of 
 English law, the sultan of Sulu exercises sovereignty of a qualified 
 sort over several Borneo sultans. According to Spanish law, he exercises 
 some feudal authority over the chiefs of Palawan, a large Mohamme- 
 dan sultanate in Mindanao, and over several small tribes on that 
 island and the island of Basilan. Nevertheless, they have done what
 
 228 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 they could to reduce the authority to a minimum, regretting every 
 point that they have been compelled to yield to his influence. 
 
 The most efficient Spanish governor ever in charge of the difficult 
 
 situation in Sulu was General Arolas, whose history is a notable one. 
 
 He has always been an outspoken republican, ready 
 
 GENERAL AROLAS to flgllt for hig conv i c ti O ns. He has told American 
 
 HIS REGIME. callers in Sulu of his warm admiration for the United 
 States as a type of what a republic should be, adding 
 that if he were not a Spaniard he would be an American. In the da}-s 
 when the republican party triumphed in Spain, Arolas is said to have 
 cast the royal throne out of a window with his own hands in order 
 to show his respect for its former occupants. After the fall of the 
 Spanish republic, he continued to display what was considered un- 
 seemly activity, and there seems little doubt that when he was hon- 
 ored with an appointment as governor of Sulu, it was with the inten- 
 tion of exiling him to a place from which he was not likel} 7 to return. 
 The new governor found the town unhealtliful, the defenses inade- 
 quate, and the garrison in constant danger of annihilation. He made 
 prisoners of the Moros and compelled them to work in strengthening 
 the defenses until these Were made impregnable. He improved the 
 sanitation of the town, changing it from a fever center to an unusually 
 healthful place. He constructed water works, built a splendid market, 
 established a free-school system and thoroughly equipped a hospital. 
 The Sulus soon became the wonder of the Philippines. At last with 
 one gunboat and two regiments he attacked Maibun, the sultan's capi- 
 tal, and inflicted a crushing defeat upon the Moros. The sultan con- 
 trived to escape, but many important chiefs were killed, the heavy 
 guns taken, and the fortifications destroyed. Arolas followed up his 
 advantage and attack succeeded attack until the fanatical Moslems 
 were cowed as never before. Several times Arolas escaped unscathed 
 from deadly peril and the Moros believed that he bore a charmed life. 
 They called him "papa." And when "papa" gave orders they were 
 treated with great respect. In his dealings with them he was just, 
 but absolutely merciless. Every threat that, he made was carried out 
 to the letter. For once the Suluanos had met their ma star and they 
 knew it.
 
 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO. 229 
 
 In 1892 Governor Arolas returned to Spain and his successor 
 proved to be by no means as capable, although he did not have long 
 to prove his ability. Finding things apparently quiet, 
 he decided to require the Moros to pay taxes and DAMKG OUTRAGE 
 issued a decree to that effect. The sultan himself, CITY OF SULU. 
 with a band of his men, presented themselves armed, 
 offering to yield to the order. The sultan came forward, presented the 
 governor with a bag of pearls, and then, suddenly drawing a barong, 
 split the Spaniard's skull to his teeth. The Moros fell on the sur- 
 prised soldiers and won a complete victory. But two or three of the 
 Spanish soldiers escaped by hiding in a subterranean passage. The 
 town was destroyed by the Moros. 
 
 The second island of the Sulu group in importance and population 
 is Tawi Tawi, which is inhabited by piratical, slave-hunting Moros. 
 There is a little Spanish garrison on the north coast at Tataan, about 
 which a few refugees have gathered,, but nowhere else in the island 
 is it safe to travel. It is not strange that little is known to 'civiliza- 
 tion about the characteristics of the islands of this archipelago when 
 danger lurks at every hand. However, it is known that Tawi Tawi 
 is covered from end to end with forest. In the old days when slaves 
 were more numerous in the Sulu islands, the virgin forest was cleared 
 from a large area near the towns and fruit trees were planted in its 
 place. The result is that the forests near the settlements are com- 
 posed almost entirely of trees which produce edible fruits. Wild hogs 
 are abundant likewise, for there is almost no one to hunt them, and, 
 with plenty of food and little molestation, they have multiplied aston- 
 ishingly. 
 
 The surface of Tawi Tawi is uneven, but the hills, though steep, 
 are low and of quite uniform height. Near the center a precipitous 
 mountain rises to an elevation of some 2,000 feet. 
 
 The slave business still flourishes in Tawi Tawi and SLAVE TRADE 
 
 EXISTS IX 
 to some extent in the other Sulu islands, although TAWI TA.WI 
 
 not so much as here. Girls of fifteen years are valued 
 at about five bushels of rice. The slave dealers of Tawi Tawi are said 
 to have no difficulty in selling- all the able-bodied men they can cap- 
 ture to the Dutch planters in Borneo.
 
 230 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 The subjugation and possession of the Sulu archipelago will pro- 
 vide much interesting and energetic labor for the United States if it 
 is decided to retain ultimate possession of the Philippines. It is to be 
 doubted if even the most persistent office-seekers will make strenuous 
 effort to obtain appointment to authority there, under the conditions 
 that they will have to meet. The Mohammedan Moro of the Sulu sul- 
 tanate seems to value life not at all, and to be quite willing at any 
 time to die if in the process he can take the life of two or three Chris- 
 tians into eternity with him. Politically and geographically this group 
 must go with the Philippine archipelago itself, but it will be the most 
 puzzling part of the possession to govern. The Sulu Mohammedans 
 of Borneo have given no trouble to the British w r ho hold the sover- 
 eignty, and, on the other hand, they have been treated with great 
 tact and caution by their British rulers. The authorities leave them 
 alone in their religious views and advise the missionaries to use all 
 possible tact in their endeavors to introduce Chris- 
 
 HOW TO 
 
 tianity. It is difficult to discover any middle ground 
 GOVERN THE 
 
 SULUS. m * ue methods of governing these peoples between 
 
 the English system in effect in India, of leaving the 
 natives in full liberty to practice all customs and religious observances 
 which do not conflict with life and human safety, and the energetic- 
 policy of General Arolas of exterminating every one in reach, at 
 the first sign of irritation or disagreement.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 Divisions of the Native Tribes The Negritos or Aboriginals of the Philippines 
 History of the Moro Invasion of the Philippines Their Wars with the Spanish 
 Conquerors Bravery and Ferocity of the Moros Organization of Their Gov- 
 ernment Weapons of the Moros Characteristics and Dress of the Men and 
 Women Their Skill as Boatmen and Pearl Divers Their Antipathy to Chris- 
 tians "Running Amuck" Religious Beliefs of the Moros The Pagan Malays 
 The Partially Civilized and Christianized Filipinos The Tagalogs, Ilocanos 
 and Visayans Hospitality and Generosity of the Natives Universal Cleanli- 
 ness Happy Family Life Their Good Qualities and Their Bad Ones. 
 
 NO one knows with any measure of accuracy, the total population 
 of the Philippine islands. Census returns, even where the Span- 
 ish have been most entirely in control, are notoriously careless 
 and unreliable, while there are scores of islands and many distinct 
 tribes which are virtually unknown to explorers and unimpressed by 
 any mark of civilization. The usual estimate of the population, how- 
 ever, is from eight to ten millions for the entire archipelago. This num- 
 ber is divided between at least eighty distinct tribes, which in a broad 
 classification may be grouped as Negritos, Mohammedan Malays, Pa- 
 gan Malays and civilized Malays, 
 
 The original population of the Philippines was the tribe known as 
 Negritos. These aboriginals are at the bottom of the scale in mental- 
 ity and in physique, little black fellows, who are rapidly disappearing 
 and seem destined to speedy extinction. The best judges of island char- 
 acter declare them to be incapable of civilization, a fact which lessens 
 the regret that they are vanishing. The largest number of them re- 
 maining are in the islands of Mindanao and Negros, where they people 
 the splendid forests clothing the mountain slopes. There are also a 
 few of the Negritos left in Mariveles mountain, near the mouth of Ma- 
 nila bay on the island of Luzon, while in the vicinity of-Cape Engano, 
 at the northeastern extremity of the same island, they are still quite
 
 THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 numerous. Even at the time of the Spanish conquest the Negritos 
 
 were becoming decimated by their conflict with the Malay invaders. 
 
 Now they have become a wretched, sickly race of al- 
 
 NEGRITOS OR most d warns h stature. Although not of the African 
 ABORIGINALS OF . . . ' . ... 
 
 THE ISLANDS. ty P e > their hair is curly, their skins black and their 
 
 features coarse and repulsive. Agriculture is little 
 practiced by them, but they depend for food upon the products of the 
 forest and upon the game which falls before their poisoned arrows. 
 
 The Moros, or Mohammedan Malays, are chiefly confined to the 
 islands of Mindanao, Palawan, Basilan, Sulu, Tawi Tawi and Mindoro, 
 The Moros have played a very important part in the history of the 
 Philippines. They were a people of Borneo, who arrived in the archi- 
 pelago just at the time of the Spanish discoverer. Landing first in 
 Basilan, they spread rapidly over the small islands of the Sulu and 
 Tawi Tawi groups, eventually occupying the whole coast of Mindanao, 
 the southern third of Palawan and the small islands adjacent. Before 
 they had completely overrun Palawan, they were interrupted by the 
 Spanish troops in their own conquest and since then they have not been 
 able to advance their settlements. 
 
 How Warfare Was Begun. 
 
 The first encounter between the Spaniards and the Moros resulted 
 from an unprovoked attack made by the European traders upon one of 
 the Moro chiefs of Mindanao. The result was disastrous to the ag- 
 gressors, who were almost annihilated. The fierce Moslem warriors 
 returned the attack with all the stimulus of their fanatical passions. 
 They raided the Spanish and native coast towns of the central and 
 northern islands with annual piratical expeditions, meeting with great 
 success and taking thousands of captives and rich treasure. For more 
 than 250 years these forays continued, while in every village watch- 
 tower in the northern islands there was constant vigilance by the sen- 
 tries who watched for the approach of the Moro fleets. The success of 
 the raiders was continued. Not only were natives enslaved by thou- 
 sands, but Spanish planters, government, officials and priests were killed 
 or held for ransom. 
 
 The history of the Philippine islands is largely the history of the
 
 THE PEOPLE OP THE PHILIPPINES. 233 
 
 wars between Spanish and Moro forces. Of course, the Spaniards 
 could not submit tamely ,to such an intolerable state of affairs. Expe- 
 dition after expedition was sent against the Mohammedan forces, and 
 with great expense of money and life a few temporary 
 
 successes were gained. Garrisons were established WARS BETWEEN 
 
 . MOROS AND 
 
 even in Sulu, only to be massacred or driven from the SPANISH. 
 
 islands. Finally, with the improvement in fire-arms 
 accessible to the Spanish forces, and the construction of light-draft 
 steam gunboats and rapid-fire guns, the Spaniards gained an advantage 
 which could not be overcome and piracy was reduced to a minimum. 
 Gunboats patrolled the islands in every channel. No Moro craft was 
 permitted at sea except with a written permit from the nearest Spanish 
 governor. Any prau violating this order was either rammed and sunk 
 by any gunboat meeting it or swept by the fire of the machine-guns, no 
 quarter ever being given. Then village after village was destroyed by 
 shells from the gunboats, even the town of Sulu, which had been the 
 residence of the Moro sultans, suffering destruction in 1876. A Spanish 
 military post was established in its place, and in spite of frequent war- 
 fare Spanish occupation has been virtually continuous since that time. 
 Other Moro strongholds in the different islands were taken and forti- 
 fied, the coast villages burned, and the inhabitants driven to the hills, 
 until finally by tacit agreement a sort of armed truce began, which, with 
 frequent interruption, has continued until the present time. 
 
 Our Most Dangerous Subject. 
 
 The sultan of Sulu is the ruler of all the Moros in the Philippines, 
 although his authority is not very well established in Mindanao, where 
 there are two subordinate sultans. Under the sultan of Sulu, the au- 
 thority is delegated to a regent, who acts during his absence; a minister 
 of war and a minister of justice, with a, local chief in each district 
 and a mandarin in each village. The higher authorities in the church 
 are the cherifs, hereditary officers who have certain -authority in tem- 
 poral as well as spiritual affairs. Under them are panditas or priests, 
 who look after the immediate spiritual welfare of the people. The Mo- 
 hammedanism of the Moros is hardly as well defined or carefully prac- 
 ticed as that of the Mohammedan countries of Asia. Their mosques
 
 234 THE PEOPLE OF WE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 are built of bamboo. Their language, which is written in Arabic char- 
 acters, is based on Sanskrit roots. 
 
 The Moros do not fail to justify the reputation given them that they 
 
 are among the most ferocious and daring people of the earth and 
 
 among the most difficult to control. All the males above sixteen years 
 
 of age go armed, except those in settlements sufficiently under Spanish 
 
 dominion that this practice may be prevented. Their 
 
 WEAPONS weapons are of excellent steel, beautifully finished 
 OF THE < 
 
 SAYAGE MOROS. an ^ admirably adapted for the violent use for which 
 
 they are intended. The barong, the campilan and the 
 kris are those most favored. The first is somewhat after the fashion of a 
 butcher's cleaver, with thick back and thin edge. The strong and 
 skillful warrior prides himself on being able to cut an opponent in half 
 if he can get a chance for a fair blow. The campilan is a straight-edged, 
 two-handed sword, with a blade wide at the tip and steadily narrowing 
 towards the hilt; it is used only for cutting, for which it is thorough- 
 ly effectual. The straight kris is a narrow-bladed, bevel-edged sword 
 used for cutting and thrusting. The serpent kris, with its wavy, dou- 
 ble-edged blade is used for thrusting and inflicts a horrible wound. 
 
 The men are of medium height and superb muscular development. 
 They dress in pantaloons, w r aistcoat, jacket, sash and turban, all gaud- 
 ily colored and showily embroidered. Their pantaloons are usually 
 skin-tight below the knee and loose above. The rank of a Moro is in- 
 dicated by the way he ties his turban. Under all circumstances a Moro 
 carries barong, kris or campilan thrust into his sash. If he expects 
 serious trouble, he has in addition a shield of light wood and a lance 
 with a broad, keen head. His conveniences for working steel are of 
 the simplest, but the blades which he produces are highly tempered 
 and often beautifully finished. He sometimes w r orks silver in with the 
 
 steel or even inlays it with gold. The hilts of his side- 
 
 TVTVpCC flff 
 
 arms are of hard, polished wood or ivory and are 
 
 MORO MEN 
 
 AND WOMEN. sometimes handsomely carved. He is crazy to get 
 hold of fire-arms, but seldom succeeds, and at any rate 
 is usually a very bad marksman. 
 
 Moro women are exceedingly fond of bright colors, scarlet and 
 green being their favorites. Their garments are a skin-tight waist, a
 
 THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPINES. '235 
 
 baggy divided-skirt, and a novel garment called the jabul, made by 
 sewing together the two ends of a long piece of cloth. This is draped 
 about the body in various ways and may be thrown over the head to 
 keep off the sun. Moro children usually possess clothes, like those of 
 their elders, but they make very little use of them. 
 
 The men are very skillful boatmen and sailors. The boat which 
 they use, the prau, is of the type familiar among all the islands of the 
 south Pacific, a frail-looking affair, skillfully carved out of a log, with 
 outriggers which prevent the boat from sinking even when filled with 
 water and guarantee its stability. They are swimmers of marvelous 
 skill and their performances in diving for pearls are almost incredible. 
 Other than that, however, the men consider it beneath their dignity to 
 
 
 
 engage in manual labor. 
 
 The Moro is a born warrior and chafes under restraint. He dis- 
 dains to work and expects his wants to be supplied by his wives and 
 slaves. He gives much time to the care of his arms and to perfecting 
 himself in their use. He tries to terrify an opponent by making hideous 
 faces, uses his shield very skillfully, and in battle is the bravest of the 
 brave. Inhuman cruelty, however, is one of his characteristics, and he 
 will cut down a slave merely to try the edge of a new barong. 
 
 One unpleasant phase of life among the Moros has been the system 
 by which the orthodox native proves the merit of his religion. The 
 Moros believe that one who takes the life of a Christian thereby in- 
 creases his chance of happiness in the future life. The more Chris- 
 tians killed, the brighter the prospect for the Moro, and if he is only 
 fortunate enough to be himself killed while slaughter- 
 ing the enemies of the faithful, he is at once trans- "RUNXIXG AMUCK" 
 
 TO KILL 
 
 ported to the seventh heaven. From time to time it CHRISTIANS. 
 happens that one of them wearies of this life, and, de- 
 siring to take the shortest road to glory, he bathes in a sacred spring, 
 shaves off his eyebrows, dresses in white and presents himself before a 
 pandita to take solemn oath to die killing Christians. He then hides a 
 kris or baroug about his person and seeks the nearest town. If he can 
 gain admission, he snatches his weapon from its concealment and runs 
 amuck, slaying every living being in his path, until he is finally him- 
 self dispatched. The number of lives taken by one of these mad fanatics
 
 236 THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 is sometimes almost incredible, but lie is eventually killed himself and 
 his relatives have a celebration when the news of his death reaches 
 them. 
 
 The religion of the Moros is a modified Mohammedanism. They 
 believe that the sun, moon and stars are the light of God. There are 
 no other worlds than this in the universe, but there are beiugs which 
 inhabit the air above us and the earth beneath our feet. They worship 
 God and die like ourselves. There is one god called Toohan. Man 
 differs from the brutes in his higher intelligence and in his ability to 
 speak. Animals have spirits, but they are not like the soul of man 
 and vanish into thin air when death comes. The soul of man lives for- 
 ever. It enters his body at the top of his head when lie is born, an 
 opening being left between the bones of the skull for that purpose. It 
 leaves the body at death once more through the skull. When one dies 
 his soul, according to some panditas, goes directly to the place of God; 
 according to others it goes under the earth to sleep until the last day. 
 A bad man's soul eventually goes to hell, which is a place of torment 
 where one is punished according to his sins. If he has talked too much 
 his mouth pains him; if he has been jealous, cruel or treacherous, it is 
 his heart ; if he has been murderous or thievish, his hand. In the course 
 of time every man's punishment is finished and he goes to heaven. 
 
 Some panditas say that one's punishment consists in misfortune, 
 
 disappointment and suffering here below, and that atonement comes 
 
 before death. Others declare that the good souls wait in the air and the 
 
 evil ones in the earth, and there is neither hell nor judgment until the 
 
 end of the world. Then all souls, good and bad, will be swept up as by 
 
 a great wind and carried to the Mount of Calvary, 
 
 RELIGIOUS BE- where t j ley w iu meet Gabriel, Michael and the 
 
 LIEFS OF THE . 
 
 MOROS. ^ eigher, who will weigh each one. Souls heavy with 
 
 sin will be sent down to hell. The Moros believe in all 
 the Old Testament characters like "Ibrahim," "No," "Adam," "Mosa," 
 "Sulaiman," "Yakub," and others. They know the outlines of the stories 
 of Adam and Eve, the flood, etc. According to them, Jesus Christ, called 
 by the Moros Isa, was a man like ourselves, but great and good and very 
 powerful, lie was not a sou of God. The Moros hate and kill the Chris- 
 tians because they teach that men could punish aud kill a son of God.
 
 THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPINES. 237 
 
 The Tagalogs are the people of the Philippines who are likely to 
 come most closely in contact with Americans in the beginning because 
 it is they who have been most active in the insurrection against the 
 Spanish in Luzon around Manila. In the Philippines are, perhaps, 
 five million civilized natives, belonging for the most 
 part to three tribes, the Tagalogs, Ilocanos and CIVILI ZE RACES 
 Visayans. While the tribes differ and there are even PHILIPPINES. 
 differences within the same tribe under varying con- 
 ditions, still the civilized natives are sufficiently similar to be con- 
 sidered as a single class in looking toward the future of the islands. 
 The best students of the islanders believe that the natives are natu- 
 rally fairly intelligent and often most anxious for an opportunity to 
 get some education. The fact that the great mass of the people are 
 ignorant affords no proof that they are stupid, for they have been 
 deliberately kept in ignorance from the time of the Spanish discovery 
 until now. 
 
 The moral obligation to tell the truth does not weigh heavily upon 
 the Filipino. The civilized natives often lie to conceal the most trivial 
 shortcoming, or even without an} 7 excuse whatever, and the detection 
 of a falsehood brings no regret except chagrin that the practice has 
 not been more dexterously carried out. The Filipino cannot under- 
 stand punishment for falsehood, because it is not to his mind an offense. 
 For a fault which he recognizes, however, as such, he will submit to 
 puMshment without a murmur, and indeed he thinks more of a master 
 who applies the rattan for punishment when it is deserved, than of 
 one who does not. On the other hand, he is quick to resent what he 
 considers to be injustice and will bide his time in silence until his 
 vengeance is certain. 
 
 The natives of the Philippines have not made eminent contribu- 
 tions toward the advance of science, literature and art, but that proves 
 little as to their capacity under a regime of develop- 
 ment. Even as it is, the Tagalog race has developed 
 one painter of merit, one author of excellent ability, j^TIVE CULTURE 
 and some wood-carvers who have done admirable 
 work. But the average native, situated as he is, could not be expected . 
 to make any advancement along such lines. Within his own sphere
 
 238 THE PEOPLE OP THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 he is certainly ingenious and ever ready with a remedy for any mishap 
 which may occur. 
 
 The Filipino frequently shows himself irresponsible in financial 
 affairs, spending money that he should save and borrowing what he is 
 not likely to be able to repay. On the other hand, he seldom repudiates 
 his debts, and if called upon to meet them does his best. 
 
 The charge that the Filipino is indolent does not weigh heavily 
 upon those who know the conditions. The man who would exert him- 
 self unnecessarily in such a climate, whether white or native, would 
 be subject to much curiosit}". No one can work there as he would in 
 a temperate climate and live. Nature has done so much for her chil- 
 dren in these islands that they have no need to labor hard in order - 
 to supply their few and simple wants. Spanish administration has 
 not been such as to encourage the natives to pile up money for the 
 tax-gatherer and the village friar to make w r ay with. Once they are 
 made to realize new wants of their own, they will work to satisfy them. 
 In Siquijor, Bohol and other islands where hard natural conditions 
 make it difficult to earn a livelihood, the people are noted for tneir 
 industry and are, consequently, in demand as laborers. 
 
 It is well to emphasize that the civilized Filipino has many good 
 qualities to offset his bad ones. He is hospitable to the limit of his 
 means, and will go to any amount of trouble to ac- 
 MAM GOOD commodate some perfect stranger who has not the 
 FILIPINOS slightest claim on him. Every village has its Bath 
 and the people are notable for their personal cleanli- 
 ness. The homes are well regulated and the family life is peculiarly 
 happy. The children are orderly, respectful and obedient to their 
 parents and respectful to strangers. Wives are allowed an amount 
 of liberty hardly equaled in any other eastern country, and they seldom 
 abuse it. They have their share of the work to do, but it is a just share 
 and they perform it without question and without grumbling. 
 
 The civilized native is self-respecting and self-restrained to a 
 remarkable degree, patient under misfortune and forbearing under 
 provocation. When he does give way to anger, however, lie is as likely 
 as not to become for the moment a maniac and to do some one a fatal 
 injury. lie is a kind father and a dutiful son. His aged relatives are
 
 THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPINES. 239 
 
 never left in want, but are brought to his home to share the best that 
 it affords to the end of their days. Among his fellows the Filipino is 
 genial and sociable. He loves to sing and dance. He is a born musi- 
 cian and his performances upon the instruments at his disposal are 
 often very remarkable. He is naturally fearless and admires nothing 
 so much as bravery in others. Under good officers he makes an excel- 
 lent soldier, and he is ready to fight to the death for his honor or his 
 home. 
 
 Out of the many wild tribes of the Philippines other than those 
 which have been mentioned in connection with the descriptions of 
 the various islands, it is necessary to mention here but a few more, 
 the names of which will become familiar to American students of 
 conditions in the Philippines. The word Igorrote, 
 which was originally the name of a single tribe, was HEAD-HUNTERS 
 extended to include all the head-hunting tribes of ARCHIPELAGO. 
 Luzon, and later became almost synonymous with 
 wild, so that w^hen one speaks of the Igorrotes at the present day he 
 refers to a number of fierce hill tribes which differ widely. Head- 
 hunting is practiced by the Gaddanes, but is for the most part con- 
 fined to the season when the fire-tree is in bloom. It is said to be 
 impossible for a young man of this tribe to find a bride until he has 
 at least one head to his credit. There are a number of other head- 
 hunting peoples, among whom may be mentioned the Altasanes and 
 Apayaos. Not all of the wild peoples are warlike, however, the Tingui- 
 anes, for instance, being a peaceable, well-disposed race. 
 
 The large island of Mindoro, which lies directly south of Manila 
 bay, is the least known island in the northern Philippines and is almost 
 universally avoided bj white men. The natives frequently refer to 
 it significantly as the white man's grav*e. At the present time it is 
 celebrated chiefly for the unsavory reputation of its people, the heavi- 
 ness of its rainfall and the deadliness of the miasma in its fever-smit- 
 ten lowlands. 
 
 Once Mindoro was famous for its splendid crops of rice and its 
 people were peaceable Tagalogs. Their prosperity attracted the atten- 
 tion of the Moros, who raided their towns. Then an epidemic exter- 
 minated the buffalos, leaving the natives without means of tilling their
 
 240 THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 land, and cholera did the rest. Now the few poverty-stricken villages 
 on the east coast which are supposed to be under Spanish protection 
 and control, amount to little. It is unsafe for white men to visit in 
 the villages on the west coast. The once rich fields have grown up to 
 forest land and the island is a rendezvous for desperate criminals who 
 escape from the neighboring provinces and seek refuge in Mindoro, 
 where they are safe from pursuit. 
 
 In the interior of Mindoro are a number of lofty mountains, the 
 highest peak attaining an altitude of nearly 9,000 feet. These moun- 
 
 tains and the adjacent lowlands are clothed in mag- 
 MIXDORO, THE nificent f ores t s which the hand of man has never dis- 
 
 turbed. Between the mountains and the west coast 
 
 are extensive plains covered with high grass. East 
 of the mountains are heavily timbered lowlands crossed by numerous 
 rivers. There are no maps or charts of this island sufficiently accurate 
 to be of any value to travelers. The rainfall is enormous for nine 
 months of the year, and even during the dry season, from March to 
 May, exploration in the interior is frequently interrupted by the heavy 
 rains. 
 
 The principal town of the island, considered to be the capital, is 
 Calapan, and other settlements around the coast are Mangauin, Man- 
 salag and Naujan. Calapan is on the northeast coast, opposite Luzon. 
 There is no anchorage and the surf runs so heavily during the autumn 
 months that steamers are often forced to carry the mails by without. 
 landing. The only Europeans at the capital are the necessary officials 
 and a few shop-keepers, while outside of Calapan half a dozen friary 
 form the entire Spanish population of the island. 
 
 There is a tribe of primitive savages dwelling in Miudoro, entirely 
 distinct from any found elsewhere in the archipelago. They are called 
 Mangyans and bear a very bad reputation for savagery to strangers. 
 The most exhaustive exploration of Mindoro was made by Professor 
 Worcester, who declares that the bad reputation of the Mangyans is 
 by no means justified. Instead of being the dreaded head-hunters and 
 cannibals of whom such alarming reports are circulated, they proved 
 to be as harmless as children. 
 
 The houses of the Mangyans aro of the crudest sort, huts which
 
 THE PEOPLE OP THE PHILIPPINES. 241 
 
 are mere platforms of poles with shelters of leaves above them. Na- 
 tives wear but little clothing and live in the rudest 
 fashion in the depth of the forest. The Mangyans are TIIE MAKGYAM 
 found both in the lowlands and in the mountains, the OF 
 
 mountaineers being in every way superior to the low 
 landers. They are physically well developed and comparatively free 
 from disease. Their noses are very flat. Their heads are covered 
 with great shocks of black hair, often showing a tendency to curl. Pro- 
 fessor Worcester reports that the tallest of the men was five feet and 
 one-half inch in height. 
 
 Apart from the vegetables and grain which their clearings afford, 
 they eat certain roots and tubers which grow in the jungle, as well 
 as any birds they can get, civet-cats, rats, monkeys, snakes, lizards and 
 fish. Crocodiles they consider a great luxur}-, although they are seldom 
 able to catch one. In hunting they use bows and poisoned arrows, and 
 occasionally manage to bring down a wild hog. All of the Mangyans 
 who have been questioned, emphatically deny any belief in a future 
 life. .They do not show the slightest evidence of idolatry or any wor- 
 ship or religion of any sort whatsoever. They are, however, moral in 
 their personal relations and honest in the extreme. Professor Worces- 
 ter says: "On the whole, after making somewhat extensive observa- 
 tions among the Philippine natives, I am inclined to formulate the law 
 that their morals improve as the square of the distance from churches 
 and other so-called civilizing influences 'increases." 
 
 Myidoro is infested with many bandits known as Tulisanes, Avho 
 hunt in parties, robbing and murdering in the boldest manner, after 
 the fashion of bush-rangers in the earlier history of 
 
 Australia. They make travel in Mindoro exceedingly TULISAXES, THE 
 " . . BUSH-RAXGIXG 
 
 dangerous. The natural resources of this island are BANDITS 
 
 undoubtedly great, but the combination of its dan- 
 
 gerous Tulisanes and its exceeding imwholesomeness makes it far from 
 
 attractive for the American traveler.
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 FAUNA AND FLORA OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 Novelties in Animal and Vegetable Life House Snakes in Place of Cats Water 
 Buffalo as Beasts of Burden Wild Buffalo and Deer Cattle and Goats Few 
 Carnivorous Animals in the Philippines Enormous Colonies of Bats A Field 
 for the Ornithologist The Source of Birds' Nest Soup Land and Water Rep- 
 tiles The Fish Markets in Manila Pearl Fisheries in the Sulu Islands 
 Exuberant Vegetation Rose Bushes Become Trees Fruits with Strange Names 
 and Stranger Flavors Wealth in the Forests of the Philippines Beautiful 
 Woods of Great Value An Opportunity for Enterprise. 
 
 THE animal and vegetable life of the Philippines offers a subject 
 of endless interest to the traveler. Nature takes strange forms 
 so universally that one sees hardly a single familiar thing in a 
 Philippine landscape. The trees are different, the flowers are different, 
 the birds and animals are different, while even the insects upon the 
 earth and the fish within the sea are altogether novel. Parties of 
 American zoologists who have traveled there have found the islands 
 almost a virgin field for their labors, so little have the Spanish done 
 to investigate scientifically. 
 
 Not all of the surprises are pleasant, nor does one have to be a 
 zoologist to come early into contact with the animal life of the Philip- 
 pines. It is necessary if one is to enjoy any comfort during his resi- 
 dence in the islands, to rise superior to such trivial things as armies 
 of cockroaches and plentiful mosquitoes, and rats. The cockroaches 
 grow to a size which justifies them in being classified as beasts of prey, 
 those three or four inches in length being quite common. They are 
 annoying pests for their destructiveness, playing havoc w T ith every- 
 thing of leather and paper. Books, shoes and everything of the sort 
 suffer from their attacks. 
 
 In order to counteract the attacks of the rats, nearly all of the 
 older houses in Manila possess what are called house-snakes. These 
 
 243
 
 A FARMER'S CART IN THE PHILIPPINES 
 
 Bringing rice from field to market at Catamba. 
 
 A SOCIABLE GROUP 
 
 American soldiers in Manila fraternizing with native Filipinos.
 
 FILIPINO POLICEMAN WITH PRISONERS 
 
 The policeman's uniform is not a very distinguishing one, but it will be seen that he carries a 
 
 rattan whip for minor punishment or persuasion and a Malay knife for more 
 
 urgent use. The prisoners are tied together by the arms.
 
 FAUNA AND FLORA OF THE PHILIPPINES. 245 
 
 are harmless but huge reptiles, generally twelve or fourteen feet long, 
 that permanently reside up in the roof and live on the rats. They 
 live between the cloth ceilings and walls of the 
 
 houses and the rafters, never leaving their abodes. SNAKES 
 
 rrl ,. -, , AS HOUSEHOLD 
 
 The natives carry them about Manila for sale, KECESSIT1ES. 
 
 curled up around bamboo poles, to which their heads 
 are tied. 
 
 The Philippines contain several varieties of buffalo which are not 
 found elsewhere. The}- are known in the language of the natives us 
 carabaos. These water buffaloes are found wild in most of the larger 
 islands. They are often caught young and tamed, after which they 
 are employed for beasts of burden. They do most of the heavy haul- 
 ing and carting of the country and are very docile, although extrava- 
 gantly slow. They require a daily mud bath and will not work without 
 it. The price of the full-grown carabao broken to w r ork is not more 
 than thirty dollars at the outside and sometimes as low as ten dol- 
 lars. 
 
 There is a smaller buffalo, found only in the island of Mindoro, 
 where it lives in the densest jungle. This little animal, called the 
 timarau, is a creature of most vicious temper and apparent^ untam- 
 able. It is graceful in shape and movement and runs very swiftly. 
 Hair and skin are black and horns large and extremely sharp. The 
 timarau if trapped will usually kill itself in trying to escape, and in 
 any event will refuse to eat. It voluntarily attacks and kills the much 
 larger carabao. 
 
 Several species of deer are found in the archipelago, in some 
 localities sufficiently numerous to become a valuable addition to the 
 meat supply. One species is hardly larger than a 
 goat and another is still smaller. It is known as the A ^ LS , WI " CH 
 
 , . FLRMSH FOOD 
 
 chevrotain or mouse deer and is exceedingly rare. FOR ^IVRKET. 
 Wild pigs are found in the islands in great abund- 
 ance. They live on food which produces very dainty flesh and the meat 
 is much favored in Luzon. There are no wolves or foxes iu the islands 
 and no wild dogs. Cattle are extensively raised for beef on some of 
 the islands. They are of a small humped variety, and in the Yisayan 
 islands bullocks are often used as draft animals. Milk is always very
 
 246 FAUNA AND FLORA OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 scarce, while fresh butter and cheese are not to be had at any price. 
 Goats are common and are prized both for their milk and their flesh. 
 
 The Philippines are poor in carnivorous animals. A small wildcat 
 and two species of civet-cats are the most conspicuous representatives 
 of the order. The marsupials which are so numerous in the Austra- 
 lasian colonies are not found here. In Luzon and some of the other 
 islands are numerous varieties of bats in great numbers. At nightfall 
 in some places they are so numerous as to resemble a great flight of 
 birds. The little vampire is there who prefers blood for his diet. Then 
 the large fruit-bats occur in enormous colonies. Their fur has some 
 commercial value and the natives occasionally eat them. Smaller 
 insectivorous bats are numerous. 
 
 Nature has been as generous to the Philippines in birds as she has 
 
 been niggardly in animals. Some 590 species have been identified 
 
 by ornithologists. Some of them are of great value 
 
 BIRDS FOUND ag f6od and others are no t a ble for their beauty. 
 
 VARIETY. There are pheasants, pigeons, eagles, parrots, ducks 
 and song birds of great variet}'. Here in the Philip- 
 pines is - found that species of swift, or sea-swallow, which builds the 
 nest so favored by the Chinese as a food. These nests .are found at 
 the proper season in caves or upon almost inaccessible cliffs, and the 
 gathering of them is attended with considerable risk. They are made 
 from a salivar}- secretion which rapidly hardens on exposure to the 
 air into a substance resembling white glue in appearance. The best of 
 the nests bring almost their weight in gold from the Chinese epicures. 
 
 The reptiles of the Philippines are abundant in variety and num- 
 ber. Crocodiles are found in the fresh-water lakes and streams, where 
 they grow to great size. Every year they kill many men, horses, buf- 
 faloes and smaller animals. Then there are iguanas or large land and 
 marsh lizards, the largest of which grow sometimes eight feet in length. 
 These, however, are altogether harmless, and they are considered very 
 good eating by those who are willing to try them. Iguana eggs are 
 almost exactly like turtle eggs. There are other smaller varieties of 
 lizards, some of them living on the ground and others in trees, while 
 in the houses of Manila the littlest ones are very common and are not 
 considered to be an annovance.
 
 FAUNA AND FLORA OF THE PHILIPPINES. 247 
 
 Some of the species of snakes are very venomous, although the 
 loss of life from snake bite is not great. Pythons and other snakes 
 of the constrictor family are very plentiful, but as 
 they are not poisonous they are in no way dreaded. ^^^c 
 
 rrvi ENOMOUS 
 
 Ihe skins of these make a capital leather and are AN1) HARMLESS. 
 used a great deal for decorative work sold in shops. 
 There are cobras in Samar, Mindanao, and the Calamianes islands. 
 Then there are venomous varieties known as the rice-leaf snake and 
 the alinmorani, the bite of which is as fatal as that of a rattlesnake. 
 Besides these there are many water-snakes which are very poisonous, 
 some of them even in Manila bay. 
 
 The fish-markets of Manila offer many varieties of fish in great 
 quantity, nearly all strange to the American eye. Most of them, how- 
 ever, are salt-water fish. They form the staple animal food of the 
 natives. Fresh-water fish are less important. Then there are several 
 kinds of shell fish and crustaceans, all palatable and nutritious. Near 
 Sulu there are extensive beds of pearl-oysters which yield beautiful 
 shells and very fine pearls as well. At present the fisheries are 
 entirely in the hands of Moro divers, and all pearls above a certain size 
 go by right to the sultan of Sulu. Chinese buyers purchase the rest 
 of the pearls and the shells. From another oyster, handsome black 
 pearls are obtained. 
 
 The fruits, floAvers and trees of the Philippines are as varied and 
 noA'el as the birds. There does not seem to be a spot in the Philip- 
 pines, excepting around active A r olcanoes, Avhere there is not exuberant 
 vegetation. The climate is such as to encourage nature to do her best. 
 Flowers seem to be more gorgeous than in any country within the tem- 
 perate zone. Xot only are the flowers indigenous to the Philippines 
 found everywhere, but many transplanted to these islands haA 7 e far 
 outstripped their original growth. The geranium becomes a perfect 
 weed in the gardens and fields of Manila, while the heliotrope groAvs 
 as a great bush six feet high and a dozen feet in diameter, weighed 
 down with a load of blossoms. Roses and tulips grow on trees. 
 Oranges and lemons are grown here and produce their exquisite blos- 
 soms in enormous quantities. Every yard is a blaze of blossoms and 
 flowers are so cheap that it is hardly necessary to pay for them.
 
 248 FAUNA AND FLORA OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 The fruits are even more novel than the flowers, hardly any of 
 the northern varieties being folmd in the Philippines. The mango is 
 found in its perfection and the banana will win favor 
 TN rRpATFqT ^ rom those w r ho have never cared for it before. Paw- 
 YARIETY. paws, shaddocks, oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, 
 guavas, pineapples, cocoanuts, figs, grapes and tama- 
 rinds are names most of them familiar to us at home, although the 
 fruit in the Philippines is superior. Less familiar dainties are the 
 durien, the finest fruit of all, which has an exquisite flavor, but an odor 
 like that of limburger cheese, the chica, the lomboy, the loquot, the 
 mangosteen, the lanzon, custard apples, the santol, bread fruit, jack- 
 fruit, the mabolo, the laichee, the macapa and the avocado or alligator 
 pear. 
 
 The forests of the Philippines contain an inexhaustible supply of 
 woods of many valuable sorts, which offer commercial opportunities as 
 soon as the islands are opened for development. Perhaps no commer- 
 cial opportunity is better than the ones that will be found in the 
 forests. The woods range from the quick-growing palm to the hard 
 woods which require a century for their full development. Many are 
 of remarkable beauty in color and grain, taking a high polish and 
 undergoing the heaviest strains or severest wear without susceptible 
 damage. The narra or Philippine mahogany is a beautiful wood which 
 grows to very great size. The banaba is hard, tough, and of a beau- 
 tiful rose-pink color. There are many ebony trees of fine quality. The 
 lanotan is often called ivory wood on account of the remarkable resem- 
 blance it bears to ivory. 
 
 A dozen others might be named, each with special qualities which 
 give it great value and each found in quantity sufficient to justify deal- 
 ing in it as a business enterprise. Under the Spanish 
 regime the immense natural wealth in timber has not 
 THE FORESTS, brought one-tenth of the income to the colony which 
 it would under better conditions of trade. Yet not- 
 withstanding red tape and costh T governmental interference, the profit 
 is so large that a steady trade is done by Manila and Iloilo with other 
 parts of the world.
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 MINERAL WEALTH OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 Motives Which Stimulated the Era of Exploration and Discovery of the Early 
 Voyagers Spanish Discouragement of Mining Operations in the Philippine 
 Islands Native Methods of Obtaining Gold Gold Bearing Districts of the 
 Philippine Archipelago Work of the British Mineral Syndicate Silver and 
 Galena Coal and Lignite Copper, Quicksilver, Platinum and Tin Iron Min- 
 ing and the Experience of an Iron Miner A New Petroleum Field Minor 
 Mineral Products Opposition of the Catholic Church in the Philippines to the 
 Mining Industries The Influence of Gold Discoveries upon the Development 
 of Remote Regions. 
 
 THREE objects of search stimulated the energy and the cupidity 
 of those monarchs of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries who 
 fostered the exploration of remote lands and seas. They wished 
 to discover new races which might be converted to Christianity for 
 their own glory and the aggrandizement of the Church; they sought 
 the islands which would produce rich spices and silks in order to pour 
 the treasures of the Orient into their own coffers and their own king- 
 doms; furthermore, they wanted to find gold and other precious 
 metals which tradition always locates in the least known and least ac- 
 cessible countries. 
 
 Less attention, however, has been given by Spanish explorers to 
 the mineral wealth of the Philippine islands than to any other phase 
 of their natural riches. The Spanish government throughout almost 
 the entire period of its possession, has not only refused to examine and 
 develop its own resources, but has actually discouraged every one else 
 who has attempted to do what it declines to do itself. 
 
 Gold has long been known to exist in the Philippines, and was 
 mined by the natives long before the Spanish discovered them. They 
 say that the yellow metal has been extracted from the rocks and the 
 
 249
 
 250 MINERAL WEALTH OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 soil from time immemorial, and they still continue to dig it in a hap- 
 hazard way, using the rudest and most wasteful methods. They know 
 nothing of amalgamation, nor do they understand the value of pyritic 
 ores. They have neither powder nor dynamite, and work only rich 
 quartz and alluvial deposits. For the latter they use washboards and 
 flat wooden moulds, losing all the float-gold. The 
 
 CRUDE MINING gold-bearing quartz is crushed by hand or ground be- 
 METHODS OF 
 NATIVES. tween heavy stones turned by buffaloes and is then 
 
 washed. The shafts are bailed by lines of workmen 
 who pass small water-buckets from man to man. Even by these prim- 
 itive methods, they obtain the precious metal in considerable quan- 
 tities. 
 
 The gold of the Philippines was better known in the past than it is 
 to-day. The Chinese books refer to the archipelago as a land of gold 
 and many precious ores, and as a matter of fact one can learn more 
 about the mineral resources of the country in Hong Kong than in 
 Manila, As early as 1572 there were mines in North Camarines, which 
 lies to the southeast of Luzon, and in the same century the natives 
 practiced quartz mining in northern Luzon. In 1620 an army officer 
 found out that some half-caste Chinese were extracting large quantities 
 of gold from mines in the provinces of Ilocos and Pangasinan, in north- 
 ern Luzon. The Chinese were attacked and killed, but the victorious 
 soldiers never found the mines. Within recent years gold deposits 
 were found on the east coast of Mindanao, and the captain of a steamer 
 trading in that neighborhood reported that the output of the washings 
 was at least ten pounds a day and that nearly all of it went to Chinese 
 traders. Even in Manila province the natives washed the sand in the 
 river near Montalban and obtained enough gold dust to pay them for 
 their trouble. The Sulu warriors bring both gold dust and nuggets to 
 Borneo, and claim that there is an inexhaustible supply on their island 
 and Basilan. 
 
 Valuable deposits of gold have been found in several other islands 
 of the group. There are old alluvial workings in Cebu, and Mindanao 
 has rich gold-bearing quartz in addition to its placer mines. On 
 Panaon there is known to be at least one vein of gold-bearing quartz. 
 The name of Mindoro is said to be derived from mina de oro (gold mine),
 
 MINERAL WEALTH OF THE PHILIPPINES. 251 
 
 and natives often offer travelers in that island a chance to see places 
 where rich deposits are found. 
 
 No serious and systematic effort ever has been made to develop 
 the great mineral wealth of the Philippines. There have been spas- 
 modic attempts at different times, but they have almost invariably re- 
 sulted in failure, owing to insufficient means of trans- 
 portation, the difficulty in securing labor, and espe- BRITI SH CAPI- 
 cially to lack of capital. Within the last few years INTERESTED. 
 a British company called the Philippines Mineral 
 Syndicate, Limited, has been conducting systematic explorations, and it 
 is from their reports that the accompanying information has been made 
 available. The operations of the syndicate have proved the alluvial 
 deposits in Luzon to be extensive as well as rich, while the auriferous 
 formation from which they have been derived is believed to extend 
 throughout the "backbone" of the island. The mountain peoples nearly 
 all traffic in gold. Many of the deposits on the Pacific slopes of Luzon 
 are very near the sea, and it is fair to believe that if modern ma- 
 chinery were introduced and transportation lines opened, the Philip- 
 pines might become a great gold-producing center. 
 
 Silver is found in the Philippines, though not to so wide an extent 
 as gold. There are very large deposits of silver lead at Acsubing, 
 Panoypoy, and Riburan on the island of Cebu. There is galena, bearing 
 both gold and silver, in Dapitan and Iligan, in the island of Mindanao. 
 
 True coal has not been discovered in the Philippines, but very ex- 
 tensive beds of excellent lignite have been found in Luzon, Cebu, Mas- 
 bate, Mindanao, Negros, and Mindoro. Experimental tests have shown 
 it to be a fairly satisfactory fuel for steamers, and nothing except the 
 complete lack of suitable means of transportation prevents the develop- 
 ment of these deposits. Although a large supply of coal has been 
 maintained at Manila, which has been imported from Great Britain, 
 Australia and Japan, the Spanish administration has preferred to pay 
 ten or twelve dollars a ton for 25,000 tons every year rather than build 
 a small railway on the island of Cebu from Compostella to the coast, 
 which would deliver the lignite in unlimited amounts at a cost of not 
 more than $1.50 a ton. It is hardly to be doubted that systematic ex- 
 ploration would lead to the discovery of true coal.
 
 252 MINERAL WEALTH OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 Copper ore occurs in Luzon and Mindanao in large outcrops and is 
 
 utilized by the natives, but it has not been successfully mined by 
 
 Europeans. In Mindanao there is also quicksilver, platinum and tin. 
 
 Iron ore of excellent quality, yielding up to 85 per 
 
 MINERALS cent O f p ure me tal, exists in Luzon, and other excel- 
 OF LUZON ' , . , . . ,, . . 
 
 AND MINDANAO. ^ en ^ iron Districts are found elsewhere in the island. 
 
 In the last century, iron mines were worked with 
 great success in Morong, but were finally closed by the government on 
 the ground that the workmen, who were Chinese, were not Christians. 
 The luckless owner was obliged to send all these workmen to China at 
 his own expense, and the government refused to pay him for the iron he 
 had already delivered, on the ground that he had insulted the Church 
 in employing pagans. The iron mines of Angap in Bulacan are richer 
 and purer than the best Spanish ore, which is so popular in the iron 
 foundries of England. 
 
 In different parts of the archipelago, large deposits of sulphur and 
 arsenic are found, in the volcanic regions sometimes of the utmost 
 purity and sometimes mixed with copper and iron. Explorers report 
 valuable discoveries of slate, borax, plumbago, granite, coral rocks, 
 sandstone and limestone. There are deposits of gypsum on a small 
 island opposite the village of Culasi in western Panay and also Min- 
 doro. Large beds of good marble are found both in 
 Luzon and Romblon. Mines of natural paint, prob- 
 STOREHOUSE, ably red lead, are found in Mindoro. Petroleum oc- 
 curs in several of the islands, one of the best districts 
 being in western Cebu near Toledo, where free flowing wells have been 
 opened. 
 
 Once American industry and enterprise obtain a foothold in the 
 Philippines and enough discoveries are made to stimulate more active 
 search, it seems reasonably certain that valuable mineral wealth will 
 be found in commercial quantities. It has been the history of the 
 world that the discovery of gold was the most influential factor possible 
 in inducing rapid immigration, settlement and the development of civili- 
 zation and all its kindred industries. California, Australia, South 
 Africa and Alaska are the latest and most notable examples of this 
 historical truth.
 
 NATIVE FISHING BOAT, MANILA 
 
 The Pasig river flows into the outer bay, and is spanned by several fine bridges, of which this is 
 
 called the Malabon. 
 
 RIVER PASIG, IN THE CITY OF MANILA
 
 ARSENAL OF CAVITE 
 
 Here the Spanish had stored their great stock of munitions of war, when Dewey came down from 
 
 Hongkong and drove them out. 
 
 IN THE STOCKS FOR THREE DAYS, MANILA 
 
 Methods of punishment in the Philippines seem crude and cruel to us. Here is a native prisoner 
 
 with a native guard.
 
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 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 NATIVE INDUSTRIES OF THE FILIPINOS. 
 
 People of the Islands Not More Indolent Than Might Be Expected of Them 
 Extreme Age of Some of the Native Industries What the Chinese Have Done 
 Fabrics Made from Pineapple Fibre Novelty of the Shell Industries Pearls 
 Made to Order Window Panes of Oyster Shells The Indispensable Bamboo 
 The Cultivation of Cacao Cocoanut Palms and Their Products Cotton Culti- 
 vation Discouraged by the Spanish Corn and Potatoes The Value of Battan 
 Bice the Staple Native Food How Bice is Cultivated Native Hemp Industries. 
 
 AS HAS been said in an earlier chapter, the native Filipinos are 
 by no means as indolent as they are generally credited with being, 
 and are quite as industrious as they could be expected to be 
 in such a climate and under such a governmental regime as has existed 
 during the Spanish administration. The Filipinos have their own 
 native industries, which are quite distinct from the commercial indus- 
 triefe which depend on the rest of the world for their prosperity and 
 their market. It is true that many of the native industries have taken 
 on a commercial form in late years. In many cases their product of 
 one sort and another has been such as to win favor for itself by proving 
 its merit. 
 
 Many of the native industries are very ancient, especially those 
 involving spinning and weaving and the utilization and manufacture 
 of sea-shells into useful and ornamental articles. The Chinese have 
 done much to introduce various occupations among the Filipinos, fol- 
 lowing the same custom that has been theirs wherever they have 
 found inferior races in their immigrations. It is to the Chinese that 
 many of the leading industries, therefore, are credited. 
 
 The most important of these industries, from a commercial point 
 of view, is the manufacture of a beautiful fabric from the fibre of 
 the pineapple leaf. This cloth, known variously as pina and nipe, 
 
 2.-, 7
 
 258 NATIVE INDUSTRIES OF THE FILIPINOS. 
 
 wins favor wherever it is shown, although it is little known in the 
 United States. The cloth has the brilliancy and strength of silk, com- 
 bining beauty with excellence in wearing qualities. 
 The makin g of the cloth is not a complicated process. 
 IS MADE. ^ ne leaves are rotted under water and in the sun, in 
 order to separate the long threads and free them 
 from gum, sap and foreign matter. These threads or hairs are very 
 fine, varying in color from w 7 hite to grayish and yellowish white. After 
 being carefully washed by the native women, they are woven upon a 
 simple hand-loom w r hich bears a strong resemblance to the native 
 looms used in China. The fabric resulting is considered the most ex- 
 quisite that can be had for woman's dress in the Philippines. The 
 same fabric is produced in Cuba, where it is equally popular. It is 
 the custom there, however, instead of weaving the cloth locally, to ship 
 the fibre in bales to Spain, where it is woven on more perfect looms. In 
 Spain and in France the fabric is considered one of the most beautiful 
 that can be obtained, and those American women who have seen it 
 quite agree with that judgment. 
 
 The shell industries of the Filipinos are peculiarly interesting and 
 altogether novel. Nature has furnished material in endless quantity 
 and variety. The simplest form of shell work is to make bracelets and 
 necklaces out of little shells of great variety, some no larger than chil- 
 dren's glass beads. Live shells are preferred to dead shells in all, the 
 work and bring much higher prices, live shells of course meaning those 
 in which the animal is living when taken from the water. The oyster 
 shells of many species are utilized for this work. Some are perfectly 
 fiat, while others are deep and large. Conchs are found in numerous 
 variety, widely varied in color and shape. From small shells spoons 
 of all sorts are made. The bowl may be of a bright golden color with 
 a high luster, the outside being pearl-gra}^ or pink. These spoons are 
 very cheap and can be bought in any size for a few cents a dozen. 
 From the conch shells are made handsome bowls, tureens, vegetable 
 dishes, cups, saucers, plates, pin-boxes, jewel-cases, card-receivers, asli 
 cups and tobacco jars. 
 
 One of the most interesting industries is the utilization of the 
 Philippine fresh-water mussel to produce pearls and pearl-covered
 
 NATIVE INDUSTRIES OF THE FILIPINOS. 259 
 
 ornaments at will. This mussel exceeds even the oyster in the quan- 
 tity though not the quality, of the liquor which by evaporation or 
 separation produces mother-of-pearl. The introduc- 
 tion of a bit of sand into the mussel will result in the 
 
 PEARL IMAGES 
 production of a pearl m a few weeks, poor in quality ARE J^D^ 
 
 of course, but still a pearl. Little images are placed in 
 the mussel in the same way and taken out to be sold after they are 
 coated with pearl. The images thus obtained are sold to Buddhists, 
 who treasure them as excellent representations of their great teacher. 
 
 The preparation of window panes from the flat Manila oyster shells 
 is a large trade among the natives. The shells are split and cut into 
 small squares and other regular shapes, forming an excellent substi- 
 tute for glass. They shut out, perhaps, half the light, which is not an 
 objection in such a climate, and in addition have the quality of mica of 
 shutting out all of the heat. When fine qualities of shell are employed, 
 the resulting tints are truly beautiful, offering a suggestion of genu- 
 ine opalescence. On other varieties of shells exquisite engraving is 
 done in low relief, representing landscapes and figures, with a most 
 beautiful display of delicate tints over the whole. Cowrie shells, cats- 
 eyes, little images of native figures and shell cameos are various phases 
 of the native shell industry. 
 
 In the forests and fields the Filipinos find many of their local 
 industries. The bamboo is as valuable to them as it always is to the 
 natives wherever it grows, becoming almost abso- 
 lutely indispensable. It furnishes him with frame, N *^j| USES 
 siding, and sometimes even roofing for his house, and BAMBOO 
 from it he fashions rafts, out-riggers for his boats, 
 sledges, agricultural implements of many sorts, lance heads, bows, bow 
 strings, arrows, spoons, forks, fish traps, water pipes, cups, fences, 
 bridges, musical instruments and almost anything else that he needs. 
 The areka palm, which grows near the native houses, produces tlie nuts 
 so much used for chewing. From 200 to 800 nuts per year will grow 
 on a single tree, the local demand for them providing occupation for 
 many natives, and they are used somewhat in Europe for manufactur- 
 ing a dentifrice. 
 
 The cacao tree, which produces the chocolate bean, has flourished
 
 260 NATIVE INDUSTRIES OF THE FILIPINOS. 
 
 in the Philippines since it was imported from Mexico early in the seven- 
 teenth century. The rich seeds are borne in large fleshy pods. Bushes 
 are raised from the bean and bear the fourth year, reaching maturity 
 two years later, by which time they have attained a height of about 
 ten feet. The beans find ready sale for home consumption, but the 
 industry has not yet reached a commercial status. More detailed in- 
 formation about the cultivation of cacao will be included in a later 
 chapter in this work, in connection with the agricultural conditions 
 of Puerto Rico, where it is cultivated commercially. 
 
 The cocoanut palm flourishes throughout the Philippine islands, 
 
 often growing in soil too poor to produce anything else. Trees come 
 
 to bearing in six or seven years, and yield on an average twenty nuts 
 
 per month. The ripe fruit is made into large rafts 
 
 RAISING COCOA- and floated to mar k etj wherever possible, but when 
 
 NUTS FOB 
 
 THE MARKET, waterways are lacking it must be hauled on buffalo 
 sledges. There is a steady local demand for the oil, 
 which is the illuminant almost invariably used by the natives and is 
 sometimes used in place of lard for cooking purposes. Copra, as the 
 dried meats of the nut are called, is exported in considerable quantity 
 to Europe. Copra is used for making fine soaps and cosmetics. 
 
 The castor oil bean grows wild on many of the islands, and its oil 
 is extracted in a small way for the local trade. It is not an article of 
 export. A species of tree cotton grows wild on many of the islands. 
 The fiber is too short to be of value for weaving, but it is used for 
 stuffing pillows and like purposes. Long-staple cotton was at one 
 time successfully raised in Ilocos, but its cultivation was discouraged 
 by the authorities, who preferred to have the natives grow tobacco. 
 
 Corn is raised as a staple food article in some of the central and 
 southern districts, especially in Cebu. On good land it yields about 
 two hundred fold and three crops can be grown in a year. The demand 
 for it is quite limited, as many of the natives will not eat it. Potatoes 
 are grown in Cebu, Xegros and Luzon. Those thus far produced are 
 very small. There is a good demand for them and the* price is high. 
 
 Rattan is very abundant and like bamboo is put to a thousand 
 uses. Tts stems are of uniform diameter, grow to enormous length 
 and are very strong. They are used in place of ropes and cables or
 
 NATIVE INDUSTRIES OF THE FILIPINOS. 261 
 
 are split and employed for tying together the parts of house-frames, 
 canoes, fences, carts, sledges, and agricultural implements, as well 
 as for binding hemp bales and sugar sacks. Split 
 
 rattan is also used in bed making and chair seating. 
 
 Demand for it is steady and many natives earn a ABUNDANCE. 
 
 living by cutting, splitting and marketing it. 
 
 The staple food of the common people is rice, and they are quite 
 successful in raising it. In former years considerable quantities of rice 
 were exported to China, but at present the crop is insufficient for the 
 home consumption. There are more than twenty different kinds of 
 paddy. They may be roughly divided into two classes, the lowland 
 rice and the highland rice. The former grows on alluvial soil under 
 water. The fields where it is raised are divided into small plots sur- 
 rounded by mud banks for the better control of the water supply. The 
 grain is sown on the seeding plot to sprout, and when it has reached 
 proper height is transplanted to the flood fields. As a rule but one crop 
 per year is obtained, the yield varying from fifty to a hundred fold. 
 The highland rice is of inferior quality, but grows without irrigation. 
 The yield is about half as much as the other, but two or three crops 
 can be raised in a year. 
 
 The methods used in rice culture and harvest are of the crudest. 
 The ground is prepared for the lowland rice by flooding it and working 
 it with muck rakes drawn by carabaos. The young rice shoots are 
 stuck in by hand and the ripe heads of grain are often 
 cut one at a time with a small knife blade, though CRTJI)E METHODS 
 
 \jf 
 
 sickles are sometimes used. Threshing is usuall}* ac- mCE-CULTURE. 
 complished under the feet of women or cattle, more 
 rarely by means of wooden flails. The grain is freed from the husk 
 by poundiug in a wooden mortar and flat baskets are used for winnow- 
 ing. Very rarely one finds simple home-made machinery for pound- 
 ing or winnowing grain, but there is nothing of the sort in general use. 
 The manufacture of hemp and of hemp-rope is partly native and 
 partly Spanish. The natives had learned the virtues of hemp long 
 before the Spanish discovery of the islands. They made an excellent 
 rope, employing nearly all of the principles which are used to-day in 
 that manufacture. Besides twisting the threads, the cords and the
 
 262 NATIVE INDUSTRIES OF THE FILIPINOS. 
 
 strands, they also braided them and with the braids in turn made 
 strands by twisting and a second braiding. The braided ropes were 
 often quite flat and were practically straps. They are still utilized as 
 harness for their ponies and buffaloes and for rigging upon their primi- 
 tive water cart. The same hempen straps are used for the making of 
 sandals and rude rugs and for nearly every purpose to which the leather 
 thong or strap is put by savage races. Although the native ropes are 
 inferior to those made by Europeans or under European directions, 
 they are strong, durable and extremely cheap, costing only a third to 
 a fifth of the more finished product. At one time these native styles 
 of cordage might be considered as part of the commercial industry of 
 the country, but the exorbitant export duties and internal taxation 
 crushed out the native enterprise. 
 
 The commercial industry of hemp production, as well as that of 
 tobacco, sugar, coffee and gutta percha, will be considered in the fol- 
 lowing chapter. They are the phases of industry in which native labor 
 is employed, but which depend for their prosperity not on local trade, 
 but upon intercourse with the rest of the world. The line to be drawn 
 in this classification is a clear one and readily understood. Without 
 an exception, the purely commercial industries are under the direction 
 and management of Europeans, some of them Spanish colonists in the 
 Philippines and others representing great commercial firms of France, 
 Germany and England.
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 THE COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIES OF THE 
 PHILIPPINES. 
 
 The Land Where Our Hopes Come From How Hemp is Grown The Principal 
 Hemp Ports of the Archipelago Extracting the Fibre from the Plant 
 Wasteful Methods of the Natives Sugar Land and the Crop It Yields 
 Methods of Extracting Sugar from Cane- Manila Tobacco and Cigars When 
 Tobacco Was a Government Monopoly Valu of the Export Trade Great 
 Cigar Factories of Manila The Coffee of the Philippines Gutta Percha in 
 Mindanao European Firms Control the Export Trade How to Beach the 
 Philippines Inter-island Communication. 
 
 THE most notable and profitable industry of the Philippine islands, 
 the one which is actually essential to the world's convenience, 
 is the production of Manila hemp, from which our ropes are made. 
 This archipelago has long furnished the whole world with its entire 
 supply of the fiber. The only attempt to produce hemp outside of the 
 Philippines which has met with any success whatsoever, is one recently 
 made in Xorth Borneo, but this has not been continued long enough 
 to affect the industry in the Philippines. The product is something 
 enormous. The average number of bales exported for the years 1888 
 to 1897 was 651,897, but the output has been steadily increasing and 
 in 1897 it reached a total of 825,028 bales. 
 
 Manila hemp, known in the Philippines as abaca, is the fiber of a 
 wild plantain. Its plants so closely resemble those of the edible 
 banana that only an expert can distinguish them. Abaca will not live 
 on swampy land, yet it requires considerable moisture, so must be 
 shaded by trees which can resist the sun. The best plants are grown 
 at a moderate elevation, on hillsides from which only the smaller forest- 
 trees have been cut. The best thus far grown has been raised in Leyte, 
 and the districts of Sorsogon and Gubat in Luzon. 
 
 263
 
 264 COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIES OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 
 
 Except Manila itself, the principal hemp ports are in the central 
 
 and southern islands of the archipelago. Iloilo is one of some impor- 
 
 tance. The greatest, however, is Cebu, and others 
 
 TTnvrP T>AT? f rc 
 
 of large commerce in hemp are Catbalogan, on the 
 
 O.T I 1 1 K 
 
 SOUTHERN ISLANDS ^ s ^ an< ^ ^ Samar, an( l Tacloban, on the island of Leyte. 
 Every port among those neighboring islands finds its 
 commerce in the hemp industry. Surigao, at the northeastern extrem- 
 ity of Mindanao, is not a large port, but it ships some of the best hemp 
 that comes into the Manila market and it is of consequent importance 
 in the islands. 
 
 The slender stem of the wild plantain is enveloped by overlapping, 
 half-round petioles, which produce the fiber. In order to extract it 
 the plant is cut and the leaf-stems are separated and allowed to wilt 
 for a short time. Each is then drawn between a block of wood and a 
 knife hinged to the block, and provided with a lever and treadle so 
 that it can be firmly held down on the stem. By this means the pulp 
 is scraped from the fiber, which is wound around a stick as fast as it is 
 drawn from under the knife. The whole little machine is so absurdly 
 simple, with its rough carving knife and rude levers, that it hardly 
 seems to correspond with the elaborate transformation that takes place 
 from the tall trees to the slender white fiber. 
 
 One man can clean only twenty-five pounds of hemp a day. When 
 it is remembered that the harvest for 1897 was more than 825,000 bales, 
 weighing 240 pounds each, it seems the more remarkable that so rude 
 an instrument should have such an important part to play. After 
 being drawn from the leaves the hemp is next spread in the sun for 
 at least five hours to dry, when it can be immediately baled. Most of 
 the hemp presses are run by man power. 
 
 Abaca is usually propagated by transplanting the suckers that 
 spring from its roots. It reaches maturity in three years from these 
 cuttings and in four years from seed. It should be 
 
 HOW 
 
 __,_., cut when it flowers, as fruiting weakens the fiber. 
 
 LAHOKtKS 
 
 WORK. There are no insect pests that injure the growing 
 
 plant to any extent. It is necessary to employ native 
 laborers and they must be closely watched, as they are inclined to 
 allow the petioles to rot and to use serrated knives in drawing the
 
 NATIVE HUCKSTER OF MANILA. 
 
 As in all countries of the Orient and many of Europe and Spanish America, the market 
 
 supplies for household use are carried through the streets by 
 
 hucksters, who cry their wares energetically.
 
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 COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIES OF THE PHILIPPINES. 267 
 
 fiber, thus decreasing the labor of extracting it, but sacrificing its 
 strength. 
 
 About thirty per cent of the fiber is wasted by the present method 
 of extraction and a fortune undoubtedly awaits the man ingenious 
 enough to devise a suitable labor-saving machine to take the place 
 of the simple device at present used for drawing it. Numerous attempts 
 to meet this want have been made in the past, but the various con- 
 trivances have all failed through either breaking the fiber or discolor- 
 ing it. To be of practical value a machine must be light enough to 
 be readily carried about by a few r men. Under existing conditions abaca 
 plantations are estimated to yield under careful management an an- 
 nual return of thirty per cent on the investment. 
 
 The second commercial industry of the Philippines in its impor- 
 tance as an export is sugar growing. The best sugar land is found 
 in the island of Negros and not more than half of it is under cultiva- 
 tion. Good uncleared land sells for $50 per acre and cleared land for 
 $75. The value of land suited to raising sugar varies with the facili- 
 ties for drainage and the distance from market. Partially exhausted 
 land near Manila brings as much as $115 an acre, while Luzon land 
 producing a third more sugar, but at a distance from the capital or 
 any other good port, sells at $30. All of these values are estimated 
 in the silver currency of the islands. The construction of railways 
 would do much to open up new country and readjust values. 
 
 The sugar estates in the Philippine islands usually are small, not 
 more than a dozen of them producing above 1,000 tons each per annum. 
 In spite of this fact, the crop has been a large one. In 1888 exports 
 reached their maximum with more than 200,000 tons. Since that time 
 they have fallen off, owing to the increased production of beet sugar 
 and the consequent depreciation of that obtained from cane. 
 
 There are local variations in the production of sugar in the Philip- 
 pines, although the essential t processes are about the same as in other 
 countries. Tahiti cane is planted in Luzon, and Java 
 cane in the southern islands. Nearly all the Negros KISDS 
 
 grinding mills are of European make. Antiquated USED. 
 
 wooden or stone crushers, run by buffalo power, are 
 
 extensively used in the other sugar-producing districts. Transporta-
 
 268 COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIES OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 tion to the coast is by buffalo cart or by water. Negros has no port 
 which will admit large vessels, and sugar must be shipped to Iloilo 
 in small steamers or schooners. 
 
 In the northern Philippines the syrup from the boiling pans is 
 poured into porous earthen pots, holding about 150 pounds each, and 
 is then allowed to drain. The molasses, which is caught in jars, is 
 sold to distilleries for making alcohol. In Negros the method is dif- 
 ferent. The syrup is boiled longer and is finally poured into large 
 wooden troughs and stirred with shovels until it cools, forming a dry 
 sugar which is ready to pack at once. The sugar produced by the 
 method first described is called "clayed" sugar. It must be broken 
 up and sun-dried before it can be shipped. 
 
 The cigar factories of Manila are the chief local industry of the 
 city. The manufacture of tobacco products has been the chief source 
 of revenue under the Spanish regime, to church and state as well 
 as to the merchants. Including the raising of the tobacco by field 
 laborers on the plantations and the makers of the trade supplies, the 
 industry gives employment to several hundred thousand people. The 
 famous Manila tobacco is a descendant of plants brought from Mexico to 
 the Philippines by missionaries in the latter part of the seventeenth cen- 
 tury. The plants flourished in their new home and the natives soon 
 became exceedingly fond of tobacco. 
 
 During the first two centuries of Spanish rule, little attention was 
 
 paid to the cultivation of tobacco, but in 1781 a royal decree of Spain 
 
 declared the entire tobacco business of Luzon to be 
 
 a government monopoly. The natives - were com- 
 THE MONOPOLY 
 OF TOBACCO. pelled to raise it against their will, outrageous abuses 
 
 arose and rioting often resulted. By one expedient 
 after another and laws of remarkable cruelty, the Spanish succeeded 
 in raising the revenue from about two millions in 1840 to five millions 
 in 1859 and eight millions in 1870. Natives were compelled to raise 
 tobacco where before they planted corn and rice. Finally another law 
 was passed whereby any land not cultivated in tobacco was appro- 
 priated by the government and given to any appointee who would 
 devote it to that purpose. Under tyranny and starvation the natives 
 rebelled and great violence was shown by the soldiers who put down
 
 COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIES OF THE PHILIPPINES. 269 
 
 the insurrection. Finally, on the last day of 1882, the monopoly was 
 at last abolished by law and the whole disgraceful business was 
 brought to an end. 
 
 Although the best Philippine tobacco is not considered equal to 
 the choicest Cuban crop, it is nevertheless excellent. Thus far compara- 
 tively little systematic effort has been made to improve its quality. 
 There is no question that the quantitj r of the crop might be greatly 
 increased and its quality bettered by more careful growing and curing. 
 Until now the best results have been obtained in north Luzon, although 
 tobacco is grown also in Panaj r , Negros, Cebu and Mindanao. Up to 
 the present time the business has been conducted without any inter- 
 ference on the part of the Spanish government, although the income 
 from the tobacco business in Manila has been a gen- 
 erous addition to the revenues of the colony. In 1897 VOLUME OF 
 
 THE TOBACCO 
 
 the leaf tobacco exported was more than 800,000 TRIBE. 
 
 pounds, while the cigars numbered nearly 157,000,- 
 000. In addition the home consumption is very large, for everybody 
 smokes in the islands, native and foreign, man, woman and child. The 
 tobacco is milder and not as well flavored as the Cuban. It comes close 
 to the Mexican leaf, from which it is descended, but, according to 
 experts, is a trifle better than the latter. 
 
 The tobacco factories in Manila range from small shops to estab- 
 lishments employing hundreds and even thousands of operatives. 
 They are large, roomy buildings, well ventilated, and with excellent 
 sanitation. The operatives are mainly girls and women, mostly half- 
 castes and natives. The largest concern employs more than 10,000 
 operatives. 
 
 Coffee of excellent quality is readily grown in the Philippines, 
 where the bushes come to bearing in their fourth year. They grow best 
 at a considerable elevation, where the temperature does not average- 
 above seventy degrees Fahrenheit. The bushes require shade and 
 moisture and vield but one crop of berries annually. 
 
 CONDITIONS 
 
 These are picked from the trees by hand, heaped up in 
 
 OF COFFEE 
 piles for a few days, and then washed to get rid of CULTURE. 
 
 pulp. The price of coffee at Manila varies greatly 
 
 from year to year. The most extensive plantations are near Batangas
 
 270 COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIES OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 in the island of Luzon. The coffee raised in the Philippines is of the 
 same varieties and qualities as that from the Dutch East Indian posses- 
 sions and can be just as favorably marketed. The export trade in 
 coffee has not been exceedingly large, but the local consumption is 
 considerable. 
 
 Gutta percha of good quality is abundant in certain localities in the 
 Philippines, particularly in Mindanao. It is hardly known as a Philip- 
 pine export, as the two or three men who have dealt in it have kept their 
 knowledge to themselves as far as possible. 
 
 The export trade in hemp, sugar, tobacco and the other commercial 
 products of the Philippines has been in the hands of European houses. 
 Several important English, German, French and Spanish firms have 
 houses in Manila, but the only American concern in the islands with- 
 drew from business there the year before the outbreak of war. The 
 trade of the islands is highly profitable and has been well organized 
 by the representatives of these great concerns. Xo doubt they are well 
 prepared to take advantage of the multiplied opportunities that will 
 exist under the American regime. Nevertheless, such monopolies can- 
 not hold all the good things, and beyond doubt there will be opportunity 
 for ample commercial enterprise for the American inA'estor who jour- 
 neys thither. 
 
 It is a journey of more than a month to reach the Philippines from 
 the United States, by the methods of travel which have existed. The 
 only communication they have had by regular passenger lines w r ith 
 the ports of Asia is by steamers running between 
 H W THE EACH Hon S koil S> Amov and Manila. Then there was a 
 PHILIPPINES. Spanish line sailing directly from Spain and touching 
 at Singapore. ITongkong is the usual port of sailing 
 for Manila, so that it remains for the prospective traveler to reach Hong- 
 kong, either by way of San Francisco or the Suez canal, as suits him 
 best. The journey eastward is ten days longer than that westward. 
 No doubt a direct line from San Francisco to Manila, via Honolulu, will 
 be established in the near future, but until that time comes one must 
 depend on the older steamship companies.
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE LADRONES AND OUR OTHER 
 PACIFIC ISLANDS. 
 
 Our Territory in Polynesia Way Station Needed Between Honolulu and Manila 
 The Ladrone Islands and Their History The Capture of Guam A Slight Mis- 
 take on the Part of the Governor-General An American Installed in 
 Authority Rebellious Constituents Naval Station to Be Established in 
 Guam A Boom in the Ladrones Wake Island for a Cable Station The Island 
 of Kusaie The Wreck of the Morning Star An Episode of the Civil War 
 The Carolines The Harbor of Pango-Pango in the Samoan Islands. 
 
 THE taking of Manila has given to the United States relationships 
 to the islands of the Pacific that were never anticipated before 
 the outbreak of war. With amazing speed we have found our- 
 selves becoming a world-power, with commerce reaching out into the 
 eastern hemisphere and the corresponding necessity to provide coaling, 
 naval and cable stations for it. It is nearly 5,000 miles from Manila to 
 Honolulu, which has been considered the limit of our possible outposts 
 in the great Pacific ocean. Five thousand miles is too far for prompt 
 action in the event of emergency, and it is evident that possessions in 
 the Philippines require us to have way-stations between San Fran- 
 cisco and Manila. Honolulu and Pearl Harbor provide the first of these, 
 coming to us peaceably and by annexation in response to the desire 
 of the people of Hawaii. For any other new territory, we had to look 
 to the possessions of Spain and the employment of force. 
 
 The first voyage of transports which bore troops from San Fran- 
 cisco to Manila for the relief of Dewey, resulted in adding territory to 
 our new possessions. Guam, the most southerly island of the Marianne 
 or Ladrone group, was seized and placed under the American flag. 
 Guam lies almost directly east of Manila and some 1,500 miles away. 
 
 271
 
 272 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 
 
 The archipelago which includes it is a part of that greater group of 
 islands of the west Pacific known as Micronesia. 
 
 The Ladrones were discovered by Magellan in 1521, as related in 
 the first chapter of this book. They were next called the Marianne 
 islands in honor of Queen Maria Anne of Austria. The 
 SPANISH RULE p resen t usage is to accept the title given by Legaspi, 
 THE LADROXES tne Ladrone islands. The Jesuit fathers established 
 a mission in the islands in 1668. The mission house 
 was fortified, garrisoned with thirty-one soldiers and armed with two 
 pieces of artillery. Within two years after the landing of this expedi- 
 tion, an attempt was made to curtail the liberty of the natives and to 
 create a system of taxation. The natives revolted and from that time 
 to the present revolutions have continued. Many priests were killed, 
 as well as soldiers, and the deaths were avenged by wholesale upon 
 the natives. 
 
 The people have been compelled to devote so many days every year 
 to government work and also to pay over to the tax-collectors of church 
 and state a heavy proportion of the grain, yams, copra, pigs and fowls 
 that they could raise. Less than twenty years ago, the governor, Senor 
 Plazos, was assassinated in a popular uprising. The total population 
 of the Ladrones when first discovered was more than 100,000, but they 
 now number hardly more than one-tenth as many. Although the 
 Spanish expense of government has been reduced to a minimum, the 
 entire revenue has been but one-half of the expense of administration. 
 There are nine towns in the islands and the capital is Agana, on the 
 island of Guam. The Spanish reports say that there are twenty schools 
 and twenty-six teachers, with about 500 enrolled scholars. The at- 
 tendance, however, is only about fifty, and probably it would be very 
 difficult to find the Dumber of teachers and schools reported. 
 
 The first fleet of troopships sailed from San Francisco on May 22, 
 reaching Honolulu seven days later. On June 4 they sailed from Hono- 
 lulu with sealed orders. When land had been left behind, the sealed 
 packet was opened by Captain Glass of the Charleston, and it was 
 found that the fleet was ordered to stop and capture Guam in the 
 Ladrono islands. 
 
 "When the fleet reached the island of Guam the Charleston en-
 
 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 273 
 
 tered the harbor, passed the unoccupied fort of Santiago and steamed 
 
 up to a position near Fort Santa Cruz. She fired 
 
 twelve shots at the fort and there was no response. B0 f * D T 
 
 UN a 1 .LAD 
 
 She then steamed on into Port de San Luis de Apra, OF A SALUTE. 
 where the town of Agana, the seat of government in 
 the Ladrones, is situated. This was on the morning of June 20. During 
 the afternoon the captain of the port and a health officer came off in a 
 small boat. They extended the apologies of the governor-general and 
 said that there was not enough powder for them to return the kind 
 salute of the Americans. Captain Glass invited them into his cabin 
 and questioned them for a few minutes regarding conditions in Guam. 
 He then told them that war had been declared and that they were 
 prisoners of war*. Their astonishment was profound, for they had 
 heard absolutely nothing to indicate that war was even threatened 
 against Spain. Captain Glass then sent them on shore to ask the 
 governor-general to come to see him. The governor-general did not 
 come, but sent an interpreter and secretary, who said that the rules of 
 the country forbade the governor-general leaving shore or going on a 
 foreign warship. He, however, invited the captain of the Charleston 
 to come on shore at 10 o'clock the following morning for a conference. 
 He guaranteed the safety of the American officer. At 8 o'clock the 
 following morning Lieutenant 'W. Braunersreuther, of the Charleston, 
 was sent on shore. He had an ultimatum to deliver to the governor. 
 The lieutenant was accompanied by a small number of men, but com- 
 panies A and B of the Oregon volunteers were held in the rear of the 
 landing party. The governor was at the wharf .to meet them. The 
 ultimatum was delivered, and it granted thirty minutes in which to 
 surrender the Ladrone islands. Failing in this, a landing party was to 
 be brought ashore and the city captured. Inside of the time limit 
 Governor-General Marina delivered into Lieutenant Braunersreuther's 
 hand a sealed envelope containing his answer. The lieutenant started 
 to break open the envelope and the governor-general remonstrated, 
 saying that the letter was for Captain Glass. Upon being assured that 
 the lieutenant acted as a representative of Captain Glass he was ap- 
 peased. The letter contained an absolute surrender. The lieutenant 
 gave him a few hours for preparation, as he was to be taken to Manila
 
 274 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 
 
 as a prisoner. After this tlie governor-general, two high officials, fifty- 
 four Spanish soldiers and some natives were taken to the Charleston 
 and later to the City of Sydney. 
 
 The disarming of the Spaniards was an interesting incident. Forty- 
 six marines and sailors were sent ashore, and the Spanish soldiers, 108 
 in number, were lined up and their arms were con- 
 nscated. Fifty-two Mauser rifles and 7,500 rounds of 
 SPANISH FORCES. ^ auser ammunition, sixty-four Remingtons and 2,000 
 rounds of Remington ammunition were taken from 
 them. The native troops were then informed that they would not be 
 taken prisoners. Their joy at hearing this was unbounded. They ex- 
 hibited the wildest enthusiasm and delight, tearing off their Spanish 
 uniforms and buttons and welcoming the fact that they were relieved of 
 Spanish rule. They were assured that they would be well cared for. 
 The American ships sailed on the morning of June 22. 
 
 . The only American resident at Guam was a naturalized citizen of 
 Spanish birth, named Francis Portusach. He was given temporary 
 charge of the reins of government by Captain Glass and was left there 
 in his supremacy and glor}', our first colonial governor. 
 
 The next information which reached the United States concern- 
 ing Guam was on the last day of December, six months after the gov- 
 ernor had been installed in power. The British schooner Esmeralda, 
 which arrived at Manila, reported that after the Charleston left the 
 island in June, the Spaniards refused to recognize the authority of 
 Francis Portusach, and Jose Sisto, a former public administrator, was 
 declared governor. He armed part of the native guards, collected a 
 tax of $6 a man and secreted fifteen tons of powder and a small stock 
 of other ammunition when the island was taken by the Americans. 
 
 Francis Portusach, whom the officers of the United States cruiser 
 Charleston left in charge of the island of Guam, being the only Amer- 
 ican citizen there, is a native of Parcelona, Spain, where he was born 
 about thirty years ago. ITe took out his citizenship papers in Chicago 
 during the year 1888. Portusach came to Chicago in 1880. ITe was 
 the son of a wealthy merchant of Barcelona, Spain, who had numerous 
 trading vessels in the Philippines and other islands of the South Seas. 
 While a boy Portnsach traveled considerably on his father's ships.
 
 THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE NEAR MANILA 
 
 The drama has its devotees in the Philippines the same as elsewhere, and the Spanish theaters 
 
 in 'Manila provide European plays and operas, while the natives find much of 
 
 their entertainment in 6'pen-air theaters like the one illustrated.
 
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 MORO WOMEN IN THE ISLAND OF MINDANAO. 
 
 These are woman of that unconquered Mohammedan tribe so famous in Philippine history. 
 
 FISHERMEN OF ILOILO, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 
 
 It is not merely because they are near the water, with the prospect of a bath, that this group is so 
 lightly clad. Filipino custom does not demand any more- elaborate toilet.
 
 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 279 
 
 After his father's death and before he had reached his majority Francis 
 Portusach left home, which had been made unbearable by the tyranny 
 of an elder brother. lie shipped as a sailor before the mast, and visited 
 all parts of the globe, finally landing in America. Soon after he became 
 a citizen of the United [States he left Chicago and went to the Pacific 
 coast. He was there lost track of by his Chicago friends, but it was 
 know^n he intended to sail for the South Seas and finally return home 
 and claim the fortune left by his father. 
 
 While the governor of Guam was having trouble with his con- 
 stituents, the administration in the United States was arranging plans 
 for his release and the development of the latent re- 
 sources of the colony. On December 23 orders were TAKLNG FORMAL 
 sent to Commander Taussig of the Bennington at OF GUAM. 
 Honolulu to proceed with all dispatch to the Ladrone 
 islands, and assume possession, in the name of the United States, of 
 all property on the island of Guam which belonged to the Spanish 
 crown. 
 
 Plans w T ere made to establish such works as would be necessary for 
 the creation of a naval station for United States vessels, and it was de- 
 cided to begin work as promptly as possible. 
 
 A few days later Captain Richard P. Leary, U. S. N., received official 
 orders of his assignment as naval governor of Guam. 
 
 Captain Lean 7 is the third officer from Charlestown under orders 
 to go to that place. Lieutenant-Colonel Pope is to command the marine 
 garrison force, with First Lieutenant Long, U. S. M. C., as his assistant. 
 The greater portion of the marine detail will also go from this station, 
 nearly fifty men now being included in the list of volunteers who have 
 asked for duty with the detachment. 
 
 It is evident that there is going to be a great boom at Guam, a 
 boom such as never was known before anywhere in that part of the 
 world, for the secretary of the navy is about to make a contract with 
 a New York firm for the construction of an extensive and complete 
 naval station, including repair shops, barracks, supply station, arsenal, 
 coaling docks and the most modern and convenient facilities for load- 
 ing, unloading and repairing ships. The first contract will amount to 
 about |300,000, and as all the material ar.d the men will have to be
 
 280 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 
 
 taken from this country by steamer, every inch of the timber and all 
 the machinery and tools and even the fuel and 500 or COO workmen, 
 marines and mechanics, .the population of the island will be doubled 
 and its wealth will be increased in a degree beyond all precedent. 
 There are between 600 and TOO souls on the island of Guam, all told. 
 Most of them are natives. The remainder are human driftwood that 
 has stranded there during the last two or three centuries and grown 
 up with the country. Among the other buildings called for by the 
 specifications is a building that will furnish suitable quarters for a 
 marine guard of 500 men, but the most expensive piece of work will be 
 an iron pier nearly a mile long. 
 
 Second Lieutenant P. II. Mullay of the Fourteenth Infantry was 
 with the first expedition to Manila and relates interesting incidents con- 
 nected with his journey. In a letter to his brother Lieutenant Mullay 
 says: 
 
 "I suppose you want to hear all about the great battle of Guam. 
 Well, we came around the northern part of the island very early yes- 
 terday morning, June 20. The Charleston went into the bay and fired 
 a shot at the fort, but it did not answer. Soon, how- 
 H <f T w A T\THF ER ever > a boat came from shore bringing a representa- 
 
 LADROSES. ^ ve f the governor, who made the most profuse apol- 
 ogies for not answering the salute and giving as the 
 reason that he had no powder. That's all, so far, of the battle of Guam. 
 The governor's representative was informed of the existence of war 
 and that they would have to surrender and come on board next day at 
 9 o'clock; also that if they made any resistance we would sack the 
 town. They did not come at the appointed time, so some marines from 
 the Charleston and some Oregon troops from the Australia were loaded 
 into boats. Seeing this, the Spaniards agreed to come. 
 
 "Shortly after dinner I went up on the bridge and saw the Charles- 
 ton signal with a lantern that they would send the prisoners on board 
 our ship. They came aboard shortly afterward, six officers and fifty-four 
 men. The governor, his secretary and surgeon were in white, the rest- 
 officers and men wore a light-weight cotton uniform, with fine white 
 and blue stripes. The enlisted men wore large, very light chip hats, 
 white cotton shirts and underwear. They are well built, small and
 
 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 281 
 
 very lean. ^They draw $3 a month, Mexican money, from the govern- 
 ment, but had not been paid for a year and a half, yet they all had 
 money. I'll bet they are quite surprised with the treatment they are 
 receiving. The officers live the same as we do and the enlisted men the 
 same as our enlisted men. The enlisted men seem very well pleased 
 with their captivity. There is only one American on the island. lie 
 hails from Chicago, I believe. He is married to a native woman who 
 is rather nice looking. lie has run in lots of 'joshing' on the natives, 
 and now I suppose he will put himself up as governor. There are a few 
 Spanish civilians in the capital, but it is five miles inland and I did not 
 get to it. There is a Catholic priest on each island and the rest are all 
 natives. All are Catholics. 
 
 "This morning we took a boat and rowed in against a strong head 
 wind and tide to a native village. It w r as a very interesting sight. We 
 had to go way round to get clear of the coral reefs, which we could 
 distinguish by the green color of the water. They had a little covered 
 passagew r ay with steps leading up out of the water for a landing. 
 The first house on the left was the home of the American resident, 
 where we stopped and got a drink of gin, which was awfully strong. 
 All the houses are either adobe or wooden structures, bamboo, cane or 
 something or other. I won't go into architecture, for fear of being 
 called down. The living room is generally large, with tables, chairs, 
 benches, etc. The floors and a good part of the other 
 
 woodwork is mahogany, worn very smooth. On the 
 
 F URN 1 1 UlvL 
 
 walls are sacred pictures, and boards swung from the IN QJ;AM. 
 ceilings serve as shelves. Off from this room over the 
 archway and to the rear are the bed-rooms, pantries, etc. In the bed- 
 rooms were little altars, with the everlasting lamp burning, sacred pic- 
 tures and some candles. The better classes had nice bedsteads of mahog- 
 any, with mattresses, blankets and pillows covered with clean pillow 
 cases. They generally have a woven mat over the mattresses, as it 
 would be too warm otherwise, for the mat allows the air to circulate 
 underneath. 
 
 "At the end of the street was the church, a typical tropical mission 
 church, with a large wooden cross in front and a bell on the side. There 
 was no furniture inside, except the lamp, a little altar and railing.
 
 282 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 
 
 The people kneel on the bare earthen floor. The natives are very 
 pleasant people and were glad to see us. They seemed very much 
 pleased at getting rid of the Spaniards. They are rather small and 
 slim people, but not thin, with graceful carriage and good chests. The 
 women and children have very pretty voices and are very modest with- 
 out being shy." 
 
 The most important feature of Commander Taussig's orders in 
 sailing for Guam directed him to find Wake island, 2,000 miles west 
 of Honolulu and 1,300 miles east of Guam. He was to take possession 
 of this lonely spot in mid-ocean and formally annex it to the United 
 States. This island was discovered a score of years ago by Commander 
 Wilkes while on a surveying expedition. It is uninhabited, but a few 
 acres in extent, but it has an excellent harbor, which may be found 
 useful some day as a coaling base, and it is admirably situated for a 
 cable station to break the 3,300-mile stretch between Honolulu and 
 Guam, which, on account of its exceeding length, would make a sub- 
 marine cable very difficult, if not impossible, to operate. 
 
 The island of Kusaie, or Strong's island, which the United States 
 wants to secure as a coaling and cable station, lies in the mid-Pacific. 
 Many of the Carolines and nearly all the other islands 
 KlJ LA I D F in this part f th6 Paciflc are coral islands mere strips 
 
 TO BE TAKEN. ^ l an d lying n the ocean's bosom like a curved rib- 
 bon. But Kusaie is almost round, with high hills and 
 a great variety of vegetation. There are creeks and small lakes nestling 
 in between the hills; great caves stretch back from the seashore, and in 
 those caves thousands of bats sleep at daytime. Their rushing out at 
 sunset is like the roaring of escaping wind. All around the island, ex- 
 cept opposite the harbor mouths, is a line of coral reef, where the sea- 
 breakers are broken into smaller waves that cannot do the damage on 
 shore that would be wrought by the open sea if it ever reached the 
 beach. 
 
 If the proposed coaling station is built it will undoubtedly be on 
 the north and west side of Weather harbor. At this point there is a 
 broad stretch of comparatively low, level ground, and water for drink- 
 ing purposes could be piped from the little lakes up among the hills, 
 if the creeks emptying into the bay did not supply enough. One cannot
 
 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 283 
 
 expect an island only eight miles in diameter to have any great water 
 supply, but for the purposes of a cable and coaling station there is a 
 sufficiency, and of a quality much better to the taste than the water 
 found on most of the salt-sea islands. There are natives on the island, 
 of course, for even the smallest islet in the Pacific has inhabitants, 
 but only about 200 of them occupy this beautiful "paradise of the 
 Pacific." 
 
 The mission station, conducted by the American board of missions, 
 is on the side of the island opposite Weather harbor, and about two miles 
 from Morning Star harbor, so named for a missionar} r vessel that was 
 wrecked there. The mission station is not maintained altogether for 
 the sake of teaching Christianity to the native Kusaiens, but comprises 
 two mission schools for islanders from other groups. Each year a 
 class goes out, and a new class enters from the Gilbert islands, 800 
 miles southeast, while another class comes from the Marshall islands, 
 which lie about the same distance due east. The schools are placed at 
 this distant point on account of the unfitness of the climate in the 
 Gilbert and Marshall groups. Many white missionaries have died in 
 these two groups, and now the American board sends 
 no more white teachers or preachers to the Gilbert and MISSION 
 but very few to the Marshall islands. Weather harbor NATIVES. 
 and Lee harbor, a larger and safer bay than Morning- 
 Star harbor and close to the latter, have been connected in late years 
 by a road cut through the forest by the male scholars in the mission 
 school. 
 
 The vegetation of the island is very luxuriant, tropical, of course, 
 but not of the kind one expects to find so near the equator. No poison- 
 ous snakes lurk among the tall, stiff roots of the pandanns trees that 
 grow in the sandy soil near the beach, or hide among the long banana 
 leaves that have fallen to the ground, and one may follow his nose 
 through the forest without fear of danger. Ferns grow to enormous 
 size, and on a small point of a hill that runs boldly down almost to the 
 bay near Lee harbor is a fern tree. Near the shores of the island, on all 
 sides, are groves of mangrove trees that shelter in the daytime great 
 numbers of large bats. The mangrove forests are so dense that at mid- 
 day it seems like evening to one underneath the spreading branches.
 
 284 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 
 
 Back among the hills grows an abundance of bread fruit, limes, 
 yams, mangoes, sugar cane and cocoanuts, and fourteen varieties of 
 bananas. The natives eat these bananas baked, boiled, fried and raw, 
 and the women missionaries have learned to get up very palatable meals 
 of bananas alone. The fruit grows in many varieties, some red, some 
 yellow, and there are even "sour" and "sweet" bananas. 
 
 Sailing ships from Honolulu generally spend about five weeks 
 making the voyage to Kusaie. Steam vessels often make it in three 
 weeks, or even less time. In the early days, when sperm whales were 
 thick in the Pacific, whalers used to stop at Kusaie to repair ship, take 
 on fresh water to fill their empty hogsheads for the cruise home and get 
 a change of diet for the crews. All vessels as a rule make for Lee har- 
 bor, because ships in Weather harbor are often unable for many weeks 
 at a time to get out if they depend upon sail alone. The wind blows 
 straight into Weather harbor most of the time, and the entrance is too 
 narrow to permit tacking ship when outward bound. 
 
 Once, during the latter part of the civil war, there were four Yankee 
 whaling ships wind-bound in Weather harbor. The captains met one 
 afternoon and arranged a plan by which to combine strength of boat 
 crews and tow one another out of the harbor mouth on the first good 
 day, each captain then to sail around to Lee harbor, and be joined later 
 by the boat crews, who should come around the island if they failed to 
 get aboard the last ship towed out. But at the close of the conference 
 a steamer was seen approaching the harbor mouth. It entered and 
 anchored, flying the Confederate flag. It was the privateer Shenandoah, 
 looking for Yankee ships. Captain Waddell of the privateer rowed in 
 his gig to each of the whalers, received their surrender 
 WORK OF A an( j carr i e( j o ff their chronometers. Later in the dav, 
 
 CONFEDERATE . 
 
 PRIVATEER when the ships had been deserted by their crews, who 
 
 Avere allowed to carry off what they could at one load, 
 
 the Shenandoah's boat crews went around and took what they wanted of 
 
 personal property. Then Captain Waddell sent word for Mr. Snow, the 
 
 good old American missionary, to come over and see a show. 
 
 Mr. Snow obeyed the summons, and, standing on the beach with 
 the poor crews of the four whaling ships, saw the four whaling ships, 
 some loaded with oil and some only oil-soaked from previous \ r oyages,
 
 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 285 
 
 burning at night on the still bay. The blackened ribs of those ships 
 still lie in the muddy bottom of the harbor, and can be seen as one is 
 carried over them in a Kusaieu canoe. 
 
 Next day Captain Waddell, expressing some interest in the good 
 behavior of the Kusaiens he had seen, asked to see the mission schools. 
 Mr. Snow took him around. There were three schools, and at each 
 school Mr. Snow, having heard the captain say before starting that he 
 would like to hear some music, had the scholars sing one of their sacred 
 songs that had been set to the tune of "John Brown." As Captain 
 Waddell remarked, he had heard more Yankee music that day than in 
 all his previous war experience. 
 
 The Carolines are an archipelago extending through nearly thirty 
 degrees of latitude and six degrees of longitude. They lie south of the 
 Ladrone islands, north of New Guinea and east of the Philippines. 
 Although the United States has taken no title to this group, yet its 
 proximity to our other island possessions makes it interesting to us. 
 The Spanish administration of the island has been very oppressive. 
 The Pelew islands are properly known as a separate group, although 
 they are included in the administration of the Carolines. They are the 
 most eastern group of the Caroline archipelago. The islands are poor 
 in products and population and severely oppressed by the Spaniards. 
 The people are of a lower type than those of the Ladrones. The two 
 most important islands of the Carolines are Ponape and Yap, the 
 former the seat of the vice-governor of the entire 
 archipelago and the latter the center of government 
 
 * iivn 
 
 for the East Carolines. The islands have been a mis- ^ eiROLrNES. 
 
 sion field for the Protestants for many years until 
 1S90, during General Weyler's administration in the Philippines, At 
 that time the law of the Philippines prohibiting Protestant mission- 
 aries was applied to the Carolines and since that time the work has 
 been interrupted. 
 
 Both the Ladrones and the Carolines are peculiarly favored in re- 
 spect to climate and soil. The temperature is mild and equable almost to 
 a fault. In the Ladrones it varies from 70 degrees to 80 degrees 
 Fahrenheit, and in the Carolines from 74 degrees to 84 degrees. The 
 native population, moreover, is pcTSsionately attached to the country
 
 286 THE LAD RONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 
 
 and flag of their beloved teachers, the Americans. Therefore there is 
 no danger of a "native problem" arising like that found in the Philip- 
 pines. The soil of all the larger islands is of inexhaustible fertility, 
 well watered, and yields all tropical and sub-tropical products in pro- 
 fusion. Among these may be mentioned rice, maize, taro, sugar, tobacco, 
 cotton, indigo; besides fruit, such as cocoanuts, breadfruit, bananas, 
 oranges, pineapples. Deer, cattle and swine have been introduced in 
 the western islands and run wild in the mountains, where the waters 
 swarm with fish and turtle. 
 
 The recent declaration by the president of the German Colonian 
 Society that the proposed acquisition of these islands by Germany is 
 "rather a naval than a commercial measure" emphasizes another im- 
 portant aspect of the matter. Mr. Foreman, who has spent most of his 
 life in the Philippines and adjacent lands, declares that the port of 
 Apra (San Louis d'Apra), in the island of Guam, where the American 
 coaling station is to be established, is merely a "creek," and that ves- 
 sels must be two miles off shore; and hydrographic office chart No. 1748 
 confirms this statement, showing it to be merely an open roadstead, 
 almost entirely filled with coral patches. The Caro- 
 
 TF 1 ^VP O\F Y 
 
 lines, with splendid harbors at Yap and Ponape, are 
 
 HAD 'I HK 
 
 CAROLINES * ne key to the western Pacific, in the same manner and 
 for the same reasons that Hawaii is the key to the 
 eastern Pacific. They have been the headquarters of the whaling 
 fleet for many years. They are on the direct route between South 
 America, or Cape Horn, and central or southern Asia; between Aus- 
 tralia, New Zealand, Fiji, Samoa, or Tahiti, and China or Japan; when 
 the canal is opened they will lie on the direct route to and from 
 almost any port in the western Pacific, and they flank the route between 
 San Francisco and Manila for 2,000 miles. 
 
 Of our island relationships in the remote Pacific, it remains but to 
 speak of the famous harbor of Pango-Pango in the Samoan islands. 
 This harbor was given to the United States government many years 
 ago by the Samoans and coal sheds were erected there. Fifteen } r ears 
 ago 3,000 tons of coal were sent in a schooner from Philadelphia and 
 landed at Pango-Pango, where sheds were built over it. Most of this 
 fuel has already been used by American warships. On account of the
 
 WOMAN OF BATANGAS, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 
 
 The Province of Batangas is one of the most fruitful of the Islands, sugar-cane being one of 
 
 the principal products. The native woman in the picture is 
 
 leaning against a stack of sugar cane.
 
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 THE LADRONES 'AND 'OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 289 
 
 difficulties of transporting it from the shore to the ships by means of 
 small lighters, however, the locality was not popular with naval officers 
 as a base of supplies, although every official report from commanders 
 visiting the harbor were enthusiastic in recommendations of its im- 
 provement and maintenance by the United States. Congress appro- 
 priated |100,000 in 1892 to take advantage of the Samoan concession, 
 and all surveys were made for the wharf and the defense of the site at 
 that time, but more than half the money was expended for coal, and 
 the lowest bid for the structural work and pier approximating f 70,000 it 
 w r as impossible to let the contract, and since that time congress has 
 been too apathetic to make further appropriations. 
 
 The navy department has, however, discovered an unused appropri- 
 ation of $200,000 made in general terms for a coaling station in the 
 Pacific with the intention that it should be spent at PeaVl harbor, and 
 this will now be taken as an emergency measure for Pango-Pango. 
 
 The specifications under the contract, which will soon be closed, 
 provide for a pier head 256 feet long and 48 feet wide in 40 feet of 
 water, with a wharf 208 feet long connecting it with the shore. The 
 structure will be entirely of steel and of a most substantial character. 
 Its piles will be solid rolled or forged steel, eight inches in diameter and 
 provided with screw points three feet in diameter to secure a firm hold 
 in the sand and coral bed of the harbor, which is 200 feet deep a few 
 hundred feet away from the pier head. 
 
 Ashore there will be two coal sheds constructed wholly of steel 
 upon heavy concrete floors 150 feet long by 100 feet wide. A narrow- 
 gauge railway with double track will run from all 
 parts of the pier to the upper part of the coal sheds, PAXGO.PAXGO, 
 and the contract calls for twenty-four two-ton self- COALING STATION. 
 dumping cars and the cables and machinery to oper- 
 ate them. The contract also provides for the erection of a substantial 
 dwelling and a large storehouse. The entire establishment is to be 
 completed within twelve months under a penalty of $100 a day. The 
 land immediately back of the coal sheds rises to a level of 160 feet, and 
 here it is proposed to mount several heavy guns. 
 
 The great advantages to be gained by the possession of this sta- 
 tion are evident from a glance at the map of the Pacific ocean. It is
 
 290 THE LADRONES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS. 
 
 situated exactly 4,160 miles from San Francisco and 4,012 miles from 
 Yokohama, the distance between Yokohama and San Francisco being 
 4,791 miles. Pango-Pango is 2,263 miles from Honolulu, the latter 
 American port being just about the same distance from San Francisco. 
 The island of Guam, in the Ladrones, is barely 3,000 miles from Samoa, 
 and Manila is just 4,000 miles away. One or more American gunboats 
 will start for Samoa soon, going by way of Cape Horn, and will dis- 
 play the American flag there until relieved by other vessels. These 
 gunboats were built specially for duty in the Pacific, but were detained 
 on the eastern coast of the United States when the war began. One of 
 them, the Helena, accompanied the Oregon on her famous cruise from 
 California to Cuba and will probably be the first to reach Samoa. 
 
 The Samoan islands are under a peculiar form of government, 
 which may be* responsible for international complications. By the 
 treaty of Berlin the United States, England and Germany united in 
 a tripartite agreement to maintain the integrity of the islands by a 
 joint protectorate. The city of Apia iself, the capital, was withdrawn 
 from the rule of the native king of the islands and placed under the 
 administration of a consular board composed of the consuls of those 
 three nations and certain civic officers appointed by them. The re- 
 mainder of the territory of the islands, however, remained under the 
 authority of the native king. 
 
 Germany having the largest commercial interests in the islands, 
 there has always been jealousy and an effort on the part of Germany 
 to dominate affairs. The natives, however, execrate the Germans and 
 are fond of Americans, so that the threatened attempt of the European 
 nation to seize the whole of the group is likely to be the cause of con- 
 siderable diplomatic correspondence, and certainly is doomed to final 
 defeat.
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 WAR AND PEACE IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 First Battle between Americans and Insurgents A Desperate Engagement in the 
 Night Shells from the Men-of-War Advance of the American Forces Slaugh- 
 ter of Filipinos Capture of the Water Works Affairs in the United States 
 During the Days of Fighting Ratification of the Peace Treaty Conditions of 
 Warfare Around Manila Frequent Skirmishes Warships Shell the Insurgents 
 Americans Suffer from the Heat A Fight Near Iloilo Agoncillo Flees 
 from Washington to Montreal Divisions in the United States Senate. 
 
 THE first outbreak of hostilities between the Filipino insurgent 
 forces and the American troops in the archipelago occurred at 
 Manila on the night of Saturday, February 4. It was 8:30 o'clock 
 when three venturesome Filipinos ran past the pickets of the First 
 Nebraska Volunteers at Santa Mesa. They were challenged, and re- 
 tired without replying. Once more they tried the experiment, were 
 challenged and thrust back beyond the picket line. A third time they 
 approached the Cossack picket maintained by the Americans at that 
 point. Corporal Greely challenged them and then opened fire, killing 
 one and wounding another. 
 
 These shots aroused the insurgent line, stretching from Caloocan, 
 near the bay, north of Manila, to Santa Mesa, in the rear of the city, 
 and a fusillade was started at many points. The pickets of the First 
 Nebraska, the First North Dakota and the First Montana regiments 
 replied vigorously, and hot work began. The American outposts, how- 
 ever, held their ground until reinforcements arrived. At 9 o'clock the 
 Filipinos attempted to rush the lines, and almost broke through the 
 wavering pickets and breathless detachments which had hurried to their 
 support. The Americans, however, grew stronger every minute. The 
 artillery joined in the melee and soon from the bay Admiral Dewey's 
 warships began to shell the insurgent positions. The Filipinos then 
 concentrated their forces at three points, Caloocan, Gagalangin and 
 
 Santa Mesa. 
 
 291
 
 292 WAR AND PEACE IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 At 1 o'clock in the morning the insurgents opened a hot fire from 
 
 the three points simultaneously. This was supplemented by the fire 
 
 of two siege guns at Balik-Balik and by advancing 
 
 ^YJS 1 ? 18 tnei r skirmishers at Paco and Pardacan. The Amer- 
 
 MAKE A 
 HOT ATTACK. lcan s replied by a heavy fire, but in the darkness they 
 
 could have little knowledge of its effect. 
 
 The Utah light artillery at last succeeded in silencing tke siege 
 guns of the Filipinos. The Third artillery was pounding away at the 
 flashes of fire showing the insurgent positions on the extreme left. The 
 engagement lasted over an hour. During much of the time the United 
 States cruiser Charleston and the gunboat Concord, stationed off Mala- 
 bon, hammered with the rapid-fire guns of their secondary batteries 
 upon the insurgent position at Caloocan. At 2:45 in the morning there 
 was another fusillade along the entire line. By this time the United 
 States monitor Monadnock was in position south of Manila and opened 
 fire on the insurgent line near Malate. 
 
 When daylight came the Americans advanced. The First California 
 and the First Washington infantry made a splendid charge and drove 
 the insurgents from the villages of Pato and Santa Mesa. The Nebraska 
 regiment also distinguished itself, capturing several prisoners and one 
 howitzer and a very strong position at the reservoir which is connected 
 with the Manila water works. The Twentieth Kansas and the Dakota 
 regiments compelled the enemy's right flank to retire to Caloocan. Fir- 
 ing continued throughout Sunday at various points. The American 
 losses at the end of the battle were approximately 50 killed and 200 
 wounded. It was impossible to do more than estimate the losses of the 
 Filipinos. 
 
 All day Monday, burial parties were busy interring the dead who 
 
 fell during the fighting on Saturday night and Sunday. Hundreds of 
 
 dead Filipinos were found in the rice fields and were 
 
 HEAAY LOSSES ^ ur i e( j on tj ie S pots where thev were found. The most 
 
 OF 
 
 THE FILIPINOS conservative calculation placed the loss of the Fili- 
 pinos at 1,000 dead and 2,000 wounded. 
 
 Late Monday afternoon, General ITale's brigade advanced and took 
 the water works at Singalon. Four companies of the Nebraska regi- 
 ment and a part of the Utah battery with two field guns and two
 
 WAR AND PEACE IN THE PHILIPPINES. 293 
 
 Hotchkiss guns met the enemy on the hill a half mile out and a sharp 
 engagement took place, in which the Nebraskans lost four men. The 
 Filipinos were driven back, retiring in bad order. General Ovenshine's 
 brigade advanced and took Paranaque, capturing two field guns. Gen- 
 eral McArthur's division advanced beyond Gagalangin without loss, the 
 enemy retreating upon Caloocan. 
 
 The action of the Filipinos in bringing on a conflict, stimulated to 
 prompt action those United States senators who had been in doubt on 
 the treaty question, thereby accomplishing a purpose diametrically op- 
 posed to what the insurgents desired. The treaty of peace negotiated 
 in Paris by the American and Spanish commissioners, w T as ratified by 
 the senate on Monday afternoon, February 6, the vote being fifty-seven 
 to twenty-seven, or just one more than the two-thirds majority re- 
 quired. The tension had been great in the senate and there was con- 
 siderable doubt whether or not ratification would be carried. The 
 country, however, was gratified that the senate took this action, be- 
 lieving that the time to settle questions as to our disposition of the 
 Philippines was after we had safely taken care of our own treaty of 
 peace. On the same day, Senator McEnery of Lou- 
 isiana, who was on the doubtful list but finally landed TH ^ T fJ 
 
 RESOLUTION 
 
 on the ratification side, offered a resolution declaring INTRODUCED. 
 that there was no intention on the part of the United 
 States to annex the Philippine islands or admit their population to citi- 
 zenship; that after we had prepared them for self-government we would 
 dispose of them as will be best for their welfare and ours. This resolu- 
 tion went over for action at a later date. 
 
 By the night of Tuesday, after three days and nights of inter- 
 mittent fighting, the insurgent forces had been driven back ten miles 
 to the east and south of Manila and five miles to the north where they 
 still had lodgment in the vicinity of Malabon. The advances of the 
 American troops had never once been checked, the enemy being scat- 
 tered like rabbits. First the canebrakes in front of advanced positions 
 were shelled and as the lurking rebels broke from cover to seek safer 
 quarters, they were raked with a withering cross-fire from the rifles of 
 the Americans, who then advanced in irresistible charges. 
 
 The Filipinos did their shooting almost exclusively from behind
 
 294 WAR AND PEACE IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 trenches, or from ambushes in the thickets, except that sharpshooters in 
 the treetops were kept busy. The Filipinos wasted a vast quantity of 
 ammunition, but they almost invariably shot too high, so that while the 
 killed and wounded on the American side made a distressingly long list, 
 the escape of the troops from an appalling slaughter, considering the 
 intrenchments everywhere, the junglelike growths of vegetation suit- 
 able for ambushes, and the short range firing from native huts, was 
 almost miraculous. 
 
 On the side of the rebels the dead had literally fallen in heaps. 
 
 There were swarms of armed men everywhere in front of the American 
 
 lines when the fighting began. Tottering old men 
 
 C ^v D and little b J s > armed onl y with knives, huddled in 
 
 O.L1/ MJbaM LM . 
 
 THE TRENCHES. *he trenches with the native riflemen, and many of 
 these how many will probably never be known 
 were shot down along with the more formidable warriors. 
 
 Caloocan became the scene of fighting as the Filipinos were driven 
 farther from the city. On the evening of February 7, Lieutenant A. C. 
 Alford of the Twentieth Kansas infantry and a private of that company 
 were killed and six others of the regiment were wounded while recon- 
 noitering. The party was in a jungle when it was attacked by the enemy. 
 Two companies of the Kansas regiment were sent to the relief of their 
 comrades and drove the Filipinos into Caloocan, penetrating to the very 
 heart of the town. Meanwhile gunboats shelled the suburbs. General 
 Otis finally recalled the troops, but the natives misunderstanding the 
 retreat, failed to take advantage of it. The outskirts of the town were 
 burned. Two days later another conflict occurred at Caloocan. Gen- 
 eral McArthur's forces lying north of the Pasig river was swung into the 
 town and routed the Filipinos after a lively battle. Before the men were 
 in the field, however, shells were thrown from the guns of Admiral 
 Dewey's ships for a full half-hour. The natives were badly demoralized 
 and had lost heavily before the real fighting began. The American 
 land forces were hurried forward at 3:40 in the afternoon and within 
 two hours the enemy were utterly routed and the village was reduced 
 to ashes. 
 
 The next stronghold where the insurgents made a stand was 
 Malabon, out of which place they were driven by the American troops
 
 WAR 'AND PEACE IN THE PHILIPPINES. 295 
 
 on February 11, setting fire to the town as they retreated. The monitor 
 Monadnock and the cruiser Charleston shelled the in- 
 surgent outposts and drove them toward the moun- ME ^"?5"? rAR 
 
 oHLLL 
 
 tains, while the American column was advancing. In THE INSURGENTS. 
 the attack the American army suffered a loss of two 
 killed and nine wounded, the insurgent loss was heavy. After the 
 retreat of the insurgent forces, plans showing a meditated attack upon 
 Manila were discovered. 
 
 Fighting before Manila was now interrupted for a few days, except 
 for unimportant skirmishes between outposts of the opposing armies. 
 The American authorities in Manila, however, had quite enough to do 
 to guard the city from threatened uprisings. It was believed at one 
 time that there w^as a plan to burn the city and many alleged con- 
 spirators were arrested. It was well understood that the people of 
 the city and the suburban villages were in sympathy with the insur- 
 gents and would take any chance to assist them. 
 
 On February 14, some of the rebels having taken possession of 
 houses near the outposts, a skirmish followed and nine men in a Cali- 
 fornia regiment before the enemy were driven out. Then a gunboat 
 shelled the villages and the jungle, driving the Filipinos toward the 
 famous lake, Laguna de Bay. By this time the American outposts were 
 extended to a position twelve miles beyond the city. Another skirmish 
 occurred on the Tariquina road on February 18, in which some twenty 
 Americans were killed and w r ounded. A day later word came that the 
 California volunteers had abandoned Guadaloupe church, setting it on 
 fire, and retired to San Pedro Macati. The rebels still held the country 
 in the vicinity of Guadaloupe, Pasig and Patero, despite the efforts of the 
 gunboats to dislodge them from the jungle on both sides of the river. 
 
 The heat was intense and increasing daily, so that the American 
 soldiers were suffering greatly from the weather to which they were 
 not accustomed. There was a daily list of casualties 
 cabled to the war department by Major-General Otis CASUALTIES TO 
 and the list of killed, wounded, and those dying from FORCES. 
 disease grew steadily. 
 
 At Iloilo conditions were equally strained, but hostilities had not 
 progressed to such an extent. After weeks of waiting in the harbor
 
 296 WAR AND PEACE IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 General Miller finally disembarked his forces in the face of the in- 
 surgents' protest and occupied the city. On February 12, General 
 Miller ordered a reconnoissance in force to ascertain the enemy's posi- 
 tion. Between Iloilo and Molo and beyond no hostile forces were en- 
 countered, but midway between Iloilo and Jaro a large body of the 
 enemy was encountered, occupying both sides of the road. They met 
 the advance of the American troops with a severe and well directed fire. 
 The Americans deployed and returned the fire with a number of volleys. 
 Supported by the Hotchkiss and Gatling guns the enemy was driven 
 through Jaro to the open country beyond. The Americans lost four 
 men slightly wounded, the insurgent loss was severe. 
 
 While the American army was moving against the insurgents in 
 the Philippines, the Filipinos were not without their supporters in the 
 United States. Agoncillo and his fellow-members of the Filipino em- 
 bassy left Washington for Montreal the night before the first news of 
 hostilities was received in the United States. It was evident that he 
 had been warned by cable of Aguinaldo's intentions. From that time 
 he made his headquarters in the Canadian city, keeping in touch with 
 the Filipino Junta in Paris, London and Hongkong, 
 
 The policy which had been adopted toward the Filipinos met with 
 strenuous opposition from a large and influential class in the United 
 States. The McEnery resolution passed the United States senate, de- 
 claring our ultimate purpose was not to annex the Filipinos. It became 
 evident that the sentiment of the country was by no 
 DIVIDED OPIMO S means unanimous for annexation. The military op- 
 UMTED STATES. era tions which had resulted in the death of thousands 
 of Filipinos who sincerely believed they were fighting 
 for the freedom of their country, aroused a great deal of feeling. 
 
 In the United States senate the fight was strenuous against the rati- 
 fication of the treaty of peace, and when that carried, the effort became 
 equally strong on the part of those who wished to adopt new policies in 
 the settlement of affairs with the Filipinos. Some senators maintained 
 that the Filipinos had a right to their freedom, and that all the blood- 
 shed would have been averted if a more generous policy had been pur- 
 sued toward them.
 
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 GRINDING CORN FOR BREAD, LUZON 
 
 Natives of the Philippines depend on this sort of implements instead of gristmills 
 
 for their flour and meal. 
 
 NATIVE CHIEFS OF MINDANAO, PHILIPPINES 
 
 This island, second in size of all the Archipelago, is still largely under the sway 
 
 of native rulers.
 
 MORO WEAPONS FROM MINDANAO. 
 
 As related in detail in this volume, the weapons of the Moros are designed for service and are 
 most effective in the hands of a fighter. A Malay sailor " running amuck" 
 with a "kris" or waved dagger, is to be avoided energetically.
 
 NATIVE HUT NEAR CALAMBA. LAGUNA PROVINCE. 
 
 FILIPINO LABORERS STRIPPING BAMBOO 
 
 This picture is from a photograph taken near the active volcano of Taal in the Island of Luzon.
 
 Book II. 
 
 Puerto Rico.
 
 THE HEALTHIEST OF THE ANTILLES.' 
 
 DIRECTLY south of Nova Scotia, and, consequently, farther east 
 than the extremest point of the United States of America, lies 
 the island of Puerto Rico, guarding the northeastern gate to the 
 Caribbean sea. The proud distinction that it holds as the healthiest of 
 the Antilles has been won during centuries of Spanish rule and conse- 
 quent carelessness of sanitary measures. If its natural wholesomeness 
 be fortified by such scientific sanitation as may be expected under 
 American dominance, all the more will this characterization become 
 a correct one. 
 
 The geographical location of Puerto Rico is as favorable as could 
 be conceived for the development of commerce, agriculture and all else 
 that go to make up modern civilization. To nothing but Spanish rule 
 can be charged the primitive conditions of the beautiful island and its 
 backward place in history and in the affairs of the world. Its situation 
 at the northwestern extremity of the Windward islands, which bound 
 the Caribbean sea upon the east, places it in the line of traffic from 
 Europe to the ports of Central America. It is equally 
 convenient as a port of call for steamers plying be- 
 tween the ports of the United States and Canada and PUERTO RICO. 
 those of the northern coast of South America. The 
 distances of various ports from San Juan, the capital of Puerto Rico, 
 are an excellent indication of the convenience which it has as a center 
 of tropical commerce. From Baltimore to San Juan is 1,300 miles, from 
 San Juan to New York 1,430, to Bermuda 850, to Halifax 1,600, to 
 Barbados 500, to Plymouth 3,550, to Gibraltar 3,375, to British Guiana 
 850, to the mouth of the Amazon 1,650, to La Guayra, the port of Car- 
 
 309
 
 310 "THE HEALTHIEST OF THE ANTILLES/' 
 
 acas, Venezuela, 650, to Colon on the isthmus of Panama 1,000, to 
 Havana 1,000, and to Greytown the entrance to the Nicaragua canal, 
 1,100 miles. 
 
 Puerto Kico is situated in the torrid zone, on a latitude north of the 
 equator corresponding closely in distance and in climate with that of 
 the Hawaiian islands, Bombay and the northern part of the island of 
 Luzon in the Philippines. It lies between latitude 17 54' and 18 31' 
 north of the equator and between 66 and 68 of longitude west of 
 Greenwich. The north Atlantic ocean sweeps its northern shores, the 
 Caribbean sea its southern and eastern, while the Mona passage on 
 the west separates it from the island of Haiti. It is the smallest of the 
 four islands known as the Greater Antilles, Cuba, Haiti, Jamaica and 
 Puerto Rico, containing within its dimensions ninety-five miles long 
 and thirty-five miles wide an area of about 3,668 square miles, or a 
 little less than half the area of the state of New Jersey. 
 
 It was necessary to be in the island of Puerto Rico last summer, 
 meeting the people who would be expected to have all available knowl- 
 edge of the place at their command, to appreciate the absolute poverty 
 of information which existed concerning our newly acquired possession. 
 The men who had gone to every source of facts that could be con- 
 ceived, in order to prepare for the exigencies of the military cam- 
 paign, either as army officers with one kind of responsibility or news- 
 paper correspondents with another, were the frankest to admit that 
 they knew virtually nothing about the people, the re- 
 sources and the conditions of the colonv. Further- 
 
 A 
 
 KNOWN ISLAND, more, the most unreliable information that came to 
 view was that printed in the north in newspapers and 
 magazines of varying age which finally began to drift down to the 
 island, which purported to tell about all things of Puerto Rico by those 
 who offered themselves as authorities. Tourists who had made one 
 cruise on a Quebec steamer from Halifax to Demarara, touching port 
 at the various islands on the way, and who had talked for an hour 
 with the purser, seemed to be taking advantage of the fact that interest 
 in the West Indies was so general, to break into print with informa- 
 tion accurate in inverse ratio to its presumption. 
 
 It would have been worth while to preface every editorial and every
 
 "THE HEALTHIEST OF THE ANTILLES." 311 
 
 news item about Puerto Rico with the injunction to wait for informa- 
 tion which was yet to be gathered, before forming definite judgments 
 on any essential matter. It was certain that there would be plenty 
 of intelligent inquiry made in the island within the months to follow, 
 to say nothing of much of the other kind, by those who were seeking 
 information for themselves or others. The man with a desire to take 
 advantage of the commercial or industrial opportunities that might 
 be expected to open in Puerto Rico for Americans, w r ould do very well 
 to be cautious and wait the report of some investigation before sending 
 any money to be invested for him in the island. If opportunities ex- 
 isted there w^ere plenty of them and no one would be the sufferer by con- 
 servative delay. These were the opinions of every careful man on the 
 ground. 
 
 When war was impending the bureau of military intelligence in 
 Washington set to work to collate the available information and 
 promptly discovered that there was nothing of sufficient accuracy of 
 detail to be of value for military purposes of the in- 
 
 ST'ATff'H FOR 
 
 vading army. Henry H. Whitney was a young lieu- MILITARY 
 tenant who had done good work in preparing certain INFORMATION. 
 reports on the armies of Europe and in constructing 
 a military map of Cuba. He was detailed to the dangerous and respon- 
 sible work of visiting Puerto Rico to obtain information for the army, 
 and he carried out his instructions with energy and courage. He was 
 in the island from the middle of April until the first of June, traversing 
 it in many directions, visiting the towns and cities, mapping the har- 
 bors, and doing the other things naturally involved in such an under- 
 taking. He passed as an English sailor, going everywhere without inter- 
 ruption or even suspicion until near the end, and no doubt would have 
 been hanged as a spy if detected. 
 
 After Lieutenant Whitney returned to Washington, he directed 
 the preparation of the military map which was used by commanders 
 of the army of invasion. In addition to that work he collated the 
 information he had obtained, and it was published in a pamphlet en- 
 titled "Military Notes on Puerto Rico." It was issued by the military 
 information division of the adjutant general's office and furnished to 
 the army officers who might find it of service. For his work in this
 
 312 "THE HEALTHIEST OF THE ANTILLES." 
 
 matter, Whitney was made a captain and was attached to the personal 
 staff of General Miles, in order that his knowledge of the island might 
 be made available. He is a modest fellow, generous and gentlemanly 
 in the best sense, and the information he obtained for the gov- 
 ernment in Puerto Eico was of great value to the military author- 
 ities. 
 
 When Captain Whitney was good enough to give me a copy of the 
 document at my own request, he warned me that the difficulties under 
 which the material had been gathered were responsible for many inac- 
 curacies, against which I must guard in using what was printed there. 
 Inasmuch as his name appears upon the book in no place as its author 
 and as he is frank to recognize its deficiencies himself, there can be no 
 affront in saying that the pamphlet is full of inaccuracies of the most 
 glaring sort. Its misinformation becomes an embarrassment to one 
 who uses it in any way as a guide. Brave as the undertaking was that 
 furnished most of the matter, it was of little service except as a demon- 
 stration of the courage of Captain Whitney himself. 
 
 BRAVERY OP 
 
 CAPTAIN HE\RY ^* s COUI> t es y an( ^ his bravery were none the less be- 
 H. WHITNEY. cause errors got into the book, and I reiterate these 
 things concerning its unreliability merely as a demon- 
 stration of the fact that the sources of information at command during 
 the time of Spanish dominance were of little value. 
 
 It proved necessary, if one wanted to know the facts about Puerto 
 Rico, to search for them and examine them himself, and I cannot deny 
 satisfaction in the opportunities afforded me which enabled me to tra- 
 verse the island in many directions, not only during the period of cam- 
 paigning, but after peace made pertinent inquiry possible. Until peace 
 and the Americans came, there was little information at hand in any 
 form sufficient to base judgment upon it as to the resources, the condi- 
 tions and the characteristics of the island. My inquiries on those mat- 
 ters were almost those of the pioneer. The generous welcome which I 
 had from citizens of all classes and of all nationalities, in every branch 
 of commerce and industry, must be given the credit for whatever I was 
 able to gather, and I am anxious to recognize thus frankly my indebted- 
 ness to them. Spanish^ officials, colonial officials and American officials
 
 "THE HEALTHIEST OF THE ANTILLES." 313 
 
 alike lent me their aid and their information, but it was the people 
 themselves, in the industries of the island, who gave me the more es- 
 sential assistance. Like Captain Whitney, I searched 
 the books of travelers who had written in Spanish, in 
 French, in German and in English on the island of THIS VOLUME. 
 Puerto Kico, whether in paragraphs or chapters, and 
 like him I found most of such writings either many years out of date, 
 or, if modern, egregiously inaccurate. 
 
 It is of this island that I am anxious to write what details of fact 
 have come into my possession. It is to be an integral part of our own 
 country, in some relationship yet undefined, and a general interest is 
 rising among the people of the United States to know all things con- 
 cerning it. Since my return from San Juan a few weeks ago, scores 
 of letters have reached me from men in various lines of industry and 
 commerce who have been anxious to know the details of island affairs. 
 Within the limits of my time and my ability I have answered such 
 letters. But it is impossible in such correspondence to be sufficiently 
 explicit or comprehensive, and I have felt a justification for presenting 
 the book to which these pages are an introduction, in this general 
 interest which has been disclosed to me.
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 PUERTO RICO IN HISTORY. 
 
 Career of This Island Less Eventful Than That of the Philippines and Cuba- 
 Discovered by Columbus on His Second Voyage Not Colonized Immediately 
 Ponce de Leon Invades the Island and Is Welcomed Character of the Aborig- 
 inals Their Government, Domestic Life and Worship The Spanish Conquest 
 of the Island Extermination of the Natives Founding of San Juan The Cap- 
 ital Besieged by Sir Francis Drake Attacks by the British and the Dutch 
 Insurrections to Obtain Freedom Abolishment of Slavery in the Island 
 Puerto Rico's Hope for Freedom by the Aid of the Cubans. 
 
 THE history of Puerto Rico is exceedingly short, measured by the 
 events that have happened of sufficient consequence to record. 
 Although it was discovered by Christopher Columbus upon his 
 second voyage in 1493, yet so comparatively even and unbroken has 
 been its career since that time, that it will not require many pages to 
 relate the things usually classified as history. The Philippines have 
 been the scene of constant warfare between the Spanish and the 
 Moros. Cuba has every page of its history blotted by the dark deeds 
 of the Spanish conquerors, resulting in insurrection after insurrection. 
 Even our little island possession of Hawaii has a career more dramatic 
 than that of Puerto Rico. 
 
 A great writer has said that that country, like that family, is hap- 
 piest which has the least history. Wars are not to be envied, even 
 though they are interesting. Puerto Rico has been enabled by the con- 
 tinuance of peace most of the time throughout the last few centuries, 
 to develop her industries and multiply her prosperity as she could not 
 have done under different conditions. With the handicap of Spanish 
 government to overcome, this island, the fourth in size of the Greater 
 Antilles, is to be congratulated for the degree of comfort attained. 
 Nevertheless, there have been wars and rumors of wars to disturb the 
 people, even before the American invasion of 1898, and they, with the 
 
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 PUERTO RICO IN HISTORY. 31D 
 
 story of the development of island civilization, will contribute some 
 paragraphs of importance. 
 
 Puerto Eico was discovered by Columbus himself on the 16th day 
 of November, 1493. He first sighted land not far from Cape San Juan, 
 where, 405 years later, a battle between Americans 
 
 and Spanish, centering at the lighthouse, helped to DIS COVERY OF 
 
 , . , , . , PUERTO RICO 
 
 make the history of our war. For three days he B y COLUMBUS 
 
 sailed along the northern coast of the island, west- 
 ward bound, on his way to Santo Domingo, where he had planted a 
 colony on his previous voyage. On the 19th day of the same month, 
 after three days of coasting, he landed at the port of Aguadilla, near 
 the northwestern extremity of the island, and remaining there two 
 days, named it Puerto Rico. He was struck by the attractive appear- 
 ance of the land and chose this name, which means "rich port," as an 
 evidence of his opinion. He did not come in contact with the natives, 
 for they fled from the neighborhood when they saw his ship, believing 
 that they were about to be attacked. 
 
 During the next two years, while the Spaniards were continuing 
 their explorations and conquests in the West Indies, they paid little 
 attention to this island. In 1508, however, Ponce de Leon, who was 
 then the governor of Hispaniola, now known as the island of Haiti, 
 determined to extend his dominion to the neighboring shores. Believ- 
 ing that gold would be found in Puerto Rico, he sailed there with a 
 small force. 
 
 The chief of the natives where he landed welcomed him with the 
 characteristic hospitality and kindness of the Indians of those islands, 
 and without hesitation took his eminent visitor to see the most in- 
 teresting sights. He showed the great resources of the island, finally, 
 at the request of the strangers, taking them to the streams where 
 gold was to be found in the sand. Ponce de Leon was thoroughly de- 
 lighted with the beauties of the island and its evident fertility. He 
 even imagined that he could find there the fountain of perpetual youth 
 which was the object of his search for many years. Perhaps, if he 
 had reached the splendid mineral springs of Coamo Banos, in the 
 interior of the island, he would have been convinced that the object 
 of his search was at last attained.
 
 320 PUERTO RICO IN HISTORY. 
 
 The Indian name of the island was Borinquen and the natives 
 called themselves Borinqueiians. That name still remains a colloquial 
 
 title, frequently in use for the people of the island. 
 
 ABORIGINAL The nat i ve population, of the same race as the in- 
 
 PUEKTO KICO. habitants of the other islands of the Greater Antilles, 
 
 is believed to have been about 600,000, or two-thirds 
 the population of the present day. The aboriginals were of the copper- 
 color familiar in American Indians of the continent, though of a sallow 
 and somewhat darker complexion. The small quantity and little sub- 
 stance of the food they used, the facility with which they supplied 
 material wants without labor, the extreme mildness of the climate, and 
 the absence of quadrupeds for the exercise of hunting, caused them to 
 be weak and indolent and averse to labor of all kinds. Anything that 
 was not necessary to satisfy the pangs of hunger or that did not afford 
 amusement, was regarded with indifference. Neither the hope of re- 
 ward nor the fear of punishment would tempt them to unnecessary 
 labor. There were, however, some exceptions among them, and some 
 of the Indians displayed much bravery and strength in the contests 
 with the Spanish soldiers. 
 
 The Borinqueiians were governed by caciques whose eldest sons 
 inherited the succession. In the absence of a son, the chief was suc- 
 ceeded by the eldest son of his sister. The chiefdoms were divided into 
 small provinces, but all were subject to the head Cacique. Little cloth- 
 ing was worn, but paints and pigments were employed for decora- 
 tion of the face and body. The resinous matter and vegetable oils 
 served to preserve them from excessive heat, perspiration and insects. 
 The huts of the Indians were quite similar to those used in the 
 southern parts of the continent. The hammock was their chief article 
 
 of furniture and the calabash their favorite cooking 
 
 ARTS AM) utensil. For arms they had the bow and arrow and 
 
 CUSTOMS OF J 
 
 THE SAVAGES. * or fi snm g an< i sea voyages, great canoes hewn out of 
 
 enormous trees. The aboriginals were confiding, gen- 
 erous and peaceful, but very superstitious. They worshipped many 
 idols, but believed in one superior deity. Except the Caribs, who occu- 
 pied the eastern end of the island and with whom they were at war, 
 they were not cannibals. To the extent that their domestic needs de-
 
 PUERTO RICO IN HISTORY. 321 
 
 maiided, they cultivated the soil, carved wood and stone and made 
 pottery. 
 
 After Ponce de Leon had enjoyed the hospitality of the islanders 
 and had won their confidence, he returned to his own realm and 
 planned for the conquest of Puerto Rico. He brought an expedition 
 into the island to subjugate the natives and this proved by no means 
 a difficult undertaking from the beginning. He killed off as many of 
 them as possible and all who were captured were sent as slaves to 
 Haiti. Then the natives, driven to desperation, organized a more de- 
 termined resistance and commenced to massacre the Spaniards. This 
 did not last long. Ponce de Leon obtained re-enforcements promptly 
 and the Indians were convinced that these new-comers were the resur- 
 rected bodies of those they had once killed. Feeling helpless against 
 such a combination, they lost all hope and courage 
 and fell an easy prey to their enemies. Within com- SPAN J? H ^ RUELTY 
 paratively few years the aboriginal population, large NATIVES. 
 as it had been, was almost completely exterminated 
 and to-day it is almost impossible to detect a trace of the aboriginal 
 type in any native of Puerto Ilico. The island population has been en- 
 tirely renewed since the Spanish conquest. 
 
 The Spaniards began to colonize Puerto Rico as soon as their con- 
 quest was complete and in 1509 founded the town of Caparra, now 
 called Quebrada Margarita. The site was found to be too high and in- 
 accessible and it was abandoned some forty years later. The present 
 capital city of San Juan was founded in 1511 by Ponce de Leon and 
 for the governor's palace the structure still standing, known as Casa 
 Blanca, was erected. 
 
 From that time on a steady stream of Spaniards flowed into the 
 island from the neighboring islands and from Europe and the colony 
 began to prosper. After De Leon's unsuccessful expedition to Florida, 
 where he received a mortal wound from the Indians, who united to re- 
 pulse him, his remains were brought back to Puerto Rico and interred 
 in the Dominican church of the capital. 
 
 During the centuries of warfare in which Spain, France and Eng- 
 land carried on conflict in Europe as well as in their colonial posses- 
 sions, Puerto Rico underwent its share of trouble. Sir Francis Drake
 
 322 PUERTO RICO IN HISTORY. 
 
 and many less notable buccaneers and privateers invaded its seaports 
 and levied tribute upon its commerce. The first invasion was that of 
 the French in 1538. Then the island was left in peace until 1595, when 
 the English, under Sir Francis Drake, paid the island a visit. He 
 w r as prevented from entering the harbor of San Juan, by a vessel which 
 the Spanish sunk in the neck of the harbor, thus 
 SPANISH SINK Bottling up their own fleet. The town was bom- 
 THEMSELVES. barded and a great deal of damage done, but alto- 
 gether the effort was considered a failure. The loss 
 of the English fleet was considerable and the squadron finally with- 
 drew from the capital. Drake contented himself with laying tribute 
 upon the colony by burning the towns on the south side of the island 
 and carrying away a large amount of booty. 
 
 Three years later the Duke of Cumberland attacked San Juan with 
 a fleet and after three days' fighting laid the city in ruins. He was 
 unable to follow up his victory, however, as the fever killed his men 
 by the hundreds. The English tried to take the city again in 1615 and 
 the Dutch took their turn at a similar effort in 1625. Other assaults 
 were made by the British in 1678, 1702, 1703 and 1743. At times they 
 were successful and laid the city under tribute, and again they were 
 defeated in their assaults. Finally, in 1795, San Juan experienced its 
 last bombardment for more than a hundred years. The English were 
 anxious to obtain the harbor of San Juan, realizing its value, but they 
 were repulsed with great slaughter. The next invasion of the peace of 
 the city was that made by the forces of the United States more than a 
 century later. 
 
 Spain neglected the island of Puerto Rico for nearly 300 years, 
 
 during which time it was used chiefly as watering place for ships and 
 
 as a penal colony. About the time of the end of the Napoleonic wars, 
 
 however, when England and Spain had been fighting together in the 
 
 peninsula, they began to take more interest in Puerto 
 
 SETTLEMENT OF Rico and to realize itg f uture possibilities. In 1815 
 
 STIMULATED.' ^ ne i s ^ an< i was thrown open to colonization and land 
 
 was given free to all Spaniards who went there to 
 
 settle. In consequence, hosts of adventurers hastened there, as well 
 
 as many Spanish royalists, who, during the next few years, left the
 
 PUERTO RICO IN HISTORY. 
 
 rebellious Spanish colonies of Mexico, Central and South America. 
 In order to provide laborers for the plantations, there was a large im- 
 portation of negro slaves from Africa and the wealth and population 
 of the island increased rapidly. 
 
 The succession of revolutions against the Spanish rule sweeping 
 over South America stimulated the people of Puerto Rico to a similar 
 effort and in 1820 they made their first effort to obtain their inde- 
 pendence. This rebellion was suppressed by the Spanish, after a short 
 guerrilla war. The next effort to obtain freedom for the island was that 
 of 1868. Simultaneously with the beginning of the ten years' war in 
 Cuba, a formidable outbreak occurred in Puerto Rico. After two months 
 of severe fighting the Spanish regulars were victorious and the leader 
 of the rebels, Dr. Ramon Beiitances, was captured. He and many other 
 prisoners were sentenced to be shot November 4, 1868. On the day be- 
 fore the execution of the sentence, news was received from Spain that 
 Queen Isabella had been deposed, and in consequence all the political 
 prisoners were released and banished from the island. 
 
 The holding of slaves ended in Puerto Rico in the year 1873, when 
 slavery was abolished by Spain and payment made to the owners of 
 the released human chattels. The date of emancipa- 
 tion is celebrated in Puerto Rico by all people as a WHEN SLAVERY 
 notable time in the annals of the island, contributing ABOLISHED. 
 peace and prosperity to all. 
 
 During the progress of the Cuban insurrection of 1896, 1897 and 
 1898, there has been slumbering in Puerto Rico an organization which 
 hoped to move for freedom in the event of Cuban success. In silence 
 the forms of government had been arranged and a flag adopted. It 
 was believed that when the Cubans were successful they would support 
 the cause of Puerto Rico with soldiers, arms and money, so that the 
 smaller island, too, would be freed from Spain. It proved unnecessary 
 to obtain that result by such a method.
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RICO. 
 
 Admiral Sampson's Bombardment of San Juan General Miles and the Invasion of 
 Puerto Rico How the Campaign Was Planned in Washington How General 
 Miles Executed the Campaign First Landing on the Soil of Puerto Rico 
 Operations Between Guanica and Ponce How Ponce Surrendered Capture of 
 Arroyo and Guayama How the Advance Across Puerto Rico Was to Be Made 
 Condition of the Plan of Campaign When the Protocol Was Signed Peace News 
 Interrupts a Battle Spanish Assault on the Lighthouse of Cape San Juan 
 General Miles and the Campaign in Puerto Rico. 
 
 THE first glimpse of actual warfare which Puerto Rico had at the 
 commencement of our hostilities with Spain was on May 12. 
 At 5:15 on that morning the citizens were startled by the 
 cannonading of the forts by the American fleet under the command 
 of Admiral Sampson. 
 
 The people of the city at first were terror-stricken and fled into 
 the country as rapidly as possible in great numbers. Then they dis- 
 covered that little danger threatened them, as the attack was being 
 directed against the fortifications and there was no intention to destroy 
 the town itself. The engagement ended after three hours of cannonad- 
 ing, during which the enemy's batteries were not silenced, although 
 considerable damage was done to them. The parts of the city im- 
 mediately in the rear of the fortifications suffered great losses by the 
 bursting of shells from the ships. Thanks to the topography of the 
 place, however, shells which passed over the fortifications did not 
 reach the city at all, but continued clear over it and fell into the bay 
 beyond. The harbor was a scene of constant explosions of shells, 
 which threw water high in the air, but did no other damage. When 
 reassured from the threat of danger the citizens realized their privilege 
 arid took advantage of the opportunity to witness the bombardment as a 
 spectacle. 
 
 324
 
 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RICO. 325 
 
 The ships taking part in the action were the Iowa, Indiana, New 
 lYork, Terror, Amphitrite, Detroit, Montgomery, Porter and Wampa- 
 tuck. The vessels passed in column formation before 
 the fortifications of Morro Castle and the other shore BATTLESHIPS 
 
 A>D A MOMTOR 
 
 batteries, firing broadsides as they went and then ^ LIKE< 
 
 circling, returned to fire from the other broadside. 
 
 Three times this circuit was made, from the entrance of the harbor 
 
 to the extreme eastern battery of the city. 
 
 The enemy's firing was heavy, but wild, and the Iowa and New 
 York were the only ships hit. The after turret of the Amphitrite got 
 out of order temporarily during the engagement, but it continued in 
 action with its forward guns. Admiral Sampson and Captain Evans 
 were on the lower bridge of the Iowa and had a narrow escape from 
 flying splinters, which injured three men. The Iowa was hit eight 
 times, but the shells made no impression on its armor. The weather 
 w>as fine, but the heavy swells made accurate aim difficult. After the 
 battle was over Admiral Sampson declared himself satisfied with the 
 morning's work. He said that he could have taken San Juan if he had 
 wished, but had no force to hold it. He merely wished to show the 
 Spaniards that the port was unavailable as a refuge for the fleet of 
 Cervera, the destination of which was still in doubt. 
 
 On July 21, 1898, General Miles sailed from Guantanaino bay to 
 begin the invasion of Puerto Rico. His ow r n force, numbering about 
 3,500 men, had been waiting in Guantanamo for several days before a 
 convoy of warships was furnished for the troopships. General Wilson 
 had sailed the day before from Charleston, with 4,000 men, and General 
 Schwan left Port Tampa on July 23 with a command numbering nearly 
 as many. The entire army of invasion, therefore, num- 
 bered somewhat more than 11,000 men. As the in- 
 vasion of Puerto Eico was originally planned, land- 
 ings were to be made on the north coast, one at 
 Fajardo and the other at Arecibo. From these two points on opposite 
 sides of the capital, advances were to be made along the line of the 
 north coast railway. The Spanish troops were to be driven before 
 the Americans and hemmed into the capital, where they were all to be 
 captured at once and exported to Spain.
 
 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RtCO. 
 
 The plan was all right, but Washington was not the place from 
 which to direct military operations in Puerto Rico. The details of this 
 plan were known quite as soon in Madrid as they were" to the generals 
 of the army, and as cable communication with Puerto Rico and Cuba 
 was never interrupted even for a single day, in spite of all the cable 
 cutting, it was not long before Captain-General Macias at San Juan 
 knew quite well what form of attack he was to face. Spanish troops 
 were hurried to Arecibo and Fajardo and energetic preparations were 
 made to give the expected visitors a warm welcome. 
 
 General Nelson A. Miles, with the wisdom of a great commander, 
 formed his own plans irrespective of those that had been made for him 
 by the Strategy Board in Washington. Instead of sailing into the 
 face of an organized resistance, he changed his destination and made 
 Guanica, near the western end of the southern coast of the island, his 
 landing. The expedition steamed from Guantanamo to Guanica with- 
 out delay, and on the 25th of July, just as General Merritt was reaching 
 Manila with his troopships from San Francisco, the American forces 
 made their first invasion of the soil of Puerto Rico. 
 
 Unprepared as the Spanish were for any kind of an attack on the 
 southern coast, after information of plans so different in character had 
 reached them, they were able to make but a feeble re- 
 sistance at Guanica - Th e bay of Guanica is an ex- 
 UNAWARES. cellent harbor, with deep water anchorage so near 
 shore that the rocky beach itself may be used as land- 
 ing stage from steamers. The village is a small one, but a few miles 
 in the interior is the important town of Yauco, which is the terminus 
 of the railway line from Ponce, some twenty-five miles distant. 
 
 The advance of the American troops of General Henry's division 
 from Guanica toward Ponce was by no means eventful. On the 26th 
 there was a skirmish in front of Yauco, in which little damage was done 
 to either the American or Spanish force. Three days later this division 
 reached Ponce without seeing or hearing anything else of the enemy. 
 In this four days' march along the line of railway, the towns of Yauco, 
 Tallaboa, Sabana Grande and Panuelas were taken without opposi- 
 tion. At Yauco the Americans were welcomed in an address made by 
 the Alcalde, and a public proclamation was issued, dated "Yauco, Puerto
 
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 POULTRY SELLER OF PUERTO RICO 
 
 Street merchants in this island carry about, not only the wares that are common to peddlers in 
 our own cities, but all sorts of peculiar things quite as strange as the hucksters themselves. Frequently 
 one sees such a type as this here pictured a man loaded to the limit of his stiength with chickens 
 ducks and geese, which he offers for sale to the passers by.
 
 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RICO. 331 
 
 Rico, United States of America, July 27." Webb Hayes of the Sixth 
 Ohio, son of former President Hayes, ran up the flag on the palace amid 
 cheers from the populace. 
 
 While General Guy B. Henry was marching from Guanica to Ponce, 
 General Miles himself was landing at the outer port of Ponce, known 
 as the Playa. This division of the army was under the command of 
 General Wilson. The incidents attending the surrender and occupa- 
 tion of the city were most inspiring. Ponce is situated three miles in- 
 land from the port, and, next to San Juan, is the principal city of the 
 island, containing beautiful homes, clean streets and 40,000 inhab- 
 itants. 
 
 Port of Ponce surrendered to Commander Davis of the Dixie 
 Wednesday at his demand and without his firing a shot. Thursday 
 morning at daybreak General Miles, with Ernst's brigade of Wilson's 
 division, reached Port of Ponce, where the American flag was already 
 flying. The reception given to the American commander was a splen- 
 did demonstration of gladness. The entire population 
 
 participated in the rejoicing. There was music in the PEOP i E 
 
 ARE GLAD TO 
 
 streets and plazas, the houses were decorated with SURRENDER. 
 brilliant colors anything looking like the colors in 
 the American flag being used profusely. Streamers of red, white and 
 blue flew from every balcony and every roof. A dinner was given to 
 General Miles and his staff by the civic officials of Ponce. The wharf, 
 the streets, the roofs, the balconies, were crowded with men, women 
 and children in holiday attire. The firemen and the volunteers of the 
 Puerto Tiican army paraded in uniform and petitioned General Miles 
 to be permitted to enlist in the American army. Similar requests were 
 made by many citizens. 
 
 The enthusiasm everywhere was immense and apparently there 
 were no Spanish sympathizers left in Ponce after the hasty departure 
 of the Spanish soldiers who had formed the garrison of the city. "We 
 are glad," the people said, "that, the United States is to be our country." 
 
 General Miles retained his headquarters at the custom house at 
 Port of Ponce, while General Wilson was in immediate command of 
 the troops in the city. General Wilson pushed General Ernst's brigade, 
 consisting of the Second and Third Wisconsin and the Sixteenth Penn-
 
 332 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RICO. 
 
 sylvania regiments, a mile and a half out on the military road after 
 dusk, retaining two companies of the Sixteenth to act as a provost guard 
 in the city. 
 
 Captain Allison was appointed provost marshal, and, with the aid 
 of the local constabulary, preserved excellent order, although almost the 
 entire population of the city remained in the streets celebrating the 
 arrival of their American liberators until long after midnight. 
 
 During the night all sorts of wild rumors were brought in to Gen- 
 eral Wilson. The first was that the Spanish were to attack the city in 
 force. In view of this a strong outpost was maintained by General 
 Ernst and the men slept on their arms. This report, however, soon 
 gave way to rumors that the Spanish were retreating, putting entire 
 villages, plantation buildings and houses to the torch, murdering and 
 ravishing as they went. 
 
 Some of the wealthy plantation owners of the vicinity became 
 horror-stricken and appealed wildly to General Wilson to dispatch 
 troops to the rescue, but it was manifestly impossible to divide so small 
 a force. None of the reports was confirmed when daylight came, except 
 that the Spaniards were in full retreat. 
 
 General Jose Garcia, w T h$ w r as in immediate command of the Span- 
 ish regulars not believed to number more than 500 was deserted by 
 most of the Spanish volunteers in his command during the night, and 
 they began straggling back to the city with the dawn. They imme- 
 diately presented themselves to the provost marshal and surrendered 
 their arms. 
 
 The appearance of the volunteers aroused in the breasts of the 
 
 natives, who had suffered at their hands in the past, especially the 
 
 political prisoners, w r ho were released when we took 
 
 YIOLE^T AGAKST the City> * ^* Q f r reyen S e > and thev be S an to ferret 
 
 THE SPANISH. ou ^ a ^ the Spaniards in the city who had ever been 
 in the volunteer service and dragged them to the 
 plaza. Bloodhounds could not have been more savage. Most of the 
 Spaniards in hiding, upon being discovered, were hauled in triumph 
 by hooting, jeering mobs to General Wilson's headquarters or to the 
 provost marshal's office in the municipal building. Some of the natives 
 even began looting the residences of the Spaniards. They mistook
 
 THE AMERICAN INVASION OP PUERTO RICO. 333 
 
 liberty for license and thus were crazed with a thirst for vengeance. 
 
 General Wilson, however, soon taught them that revenge could 
 not be prosecuted under the protection of the American flag, and 
 ordered that the arrest of the Spanish suspects should cease. Such 
 volunteers as presented themselves were, however, received and 
 released after their names had been taken. 
 
 Proclamations enjoining the acceptance of American domination 
 as the greatest blessing granted by God to the inhabitants of the coun- 
 try were frequent, and emanated from the civil authorities as well as 
 political, social and commercial leaders. The citizens went fairly 
 delirious with joy. 
 
 But there was more than mere lip service. Earnestness of purpose 
 marked the new era. Loyalty to the stars and stripes evidenced itself 
 in many ways. The civil authorities, directed to resume their functions 
 by the military commanders, recommenced their work with extraor- 
 dinary vigor. The department of public works set hundreds of laborers 
 to the task of cleaning the thoroughfares. Gas and electric-light com- 
 panies had their plants in operation, the volunteer fire department, the 
 pride of Ponce, was on duty, while everywhere was shown a disposition 
 to do that which will prove by deeds the new spirit of American 
 patriotism. 
 
 The policy of General Miles not to interfere with the local institu- 
 tions of Puerto Rico was most popular, and the people, who at first 
 feared sudden innovations, were delighted. For the present the Span- 
 ish mediaeval system of courts will continue as it has during a period 
 of 400 years. All that was required was the oath of allegiance and the 
 Puerto Rican might go about his business as usual. The Anglo-Saxon 
 idea of putting men on their honor was a new one in this place, but 
 immensely popular, and the Puerto Ricans themselves are its strongest 
 advocates. Every man who subscribes to the simple oath at police 
 headquarters seenis to be imbued at once with a kind of enthusiastic 
 Americanism which makes him urge all his friends to follow his 
 example. 
 
 A systematic administration of the oath to all officials in the sur- 
 rendered towns was ordered, and the three judges of the highest civil 
 and criminal court of Ponce were sworn. For the first time in
 
 334 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RICO. 
 
 the history of the United States judges in a foreign and supposedly 
 hostile country swore, with God's help, to support the consti- 
 tution of the United States. The situation was 
 FOREIGNERS , T ,, ,, , , ,., 
 
 SWEAE novel. In all the legal literature of our country 
 
 ALLEGIANCE. no form of oath exactly fitted, so the judge ad- 
 vocate on General Miles' staff, Lieutenant-Colonel 
 Klaus, extemporized this: 
 
 "I, , do declare upon oath that during the occupation of the 
 
 island of Puerto Rico by the United States of America I renounce and 
 abjure all allegiance and fidelity to every foreign prince, potentate, state 
 or sovereignty, and particularly to the queen regent and king of Spain, 
 and that I will support the constitution of the United States against all 
 enemies, foreign or domestic; that I will bear true faith and allegi- 
 ance to the same; further, that I will faithfully support the government 
 of the United States as established by the military authorities of the 
 same on the island of Puerto Rico, and yield obedience to the same, and 
 that I take this obligation freely, without mental reservation or pur- 
 pose of evasion, so help me God." 
 
 The ceremon}' was an example of American simplicity. The native 
 judges, accustomed to Spanish ceremonial, appeared at 10 o'clock. They 
 found the judge-advocate in a small room with an interpreter. The 
 judges were standing, and the colonel stared at them through his spec- 
 tacles as the interpreter read the translated oath. "Raise your right 
 hands," he said. The judges obeyed. "Do you swear?" he inquired. 
 "Si!" came from the three men, and the ceremony was over. 
 
 The priests of the cathedral of Ponce are of the order of Vincent 
 de Paul. One of them, Father Janices, speaks English fluently. He it 
 was who delivered the sermon in New York on the occasion of the 
 Spanish memorial services after the death of Canovas. Speaking of 
 the church in Puerto Rico, he said: 
 
 "We are neither cowards nor liars! We do not deny that we have 
 
 always been loyal Spaniards, but we realize that the chief duty of the 
 
 OPINIONS OF church is to save souls, not mingle in international 
 
 THE CHURCH f l"arrels. With all our hearts we welcome the Ainer- 
 
 ON ANNEXATION i ( ' ans - Your constitution protects all religions, and 
 
 we ask only for our church that protection which 
 
 it has ever enjoyed in the United States. The archbishop of Puerto 
 
 Rico is now in Spain. The vicar-general at San Juan is now acting. 
 
 We shall no longer look to him as the ecclesiastical head, but so soon
 
 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RICO. f 335 
 
 as possible will communicate with Cardinal Gibbons and await his 
 wishes. Should any American soldier desire the ministrations of a 
 priest we shall always be at his disposal. We have determined to 
 become loyal Americans." 
 
 Throughout the entire interview Father Janices never once referred 
 to Puerto Rico in any other way than as irretrievably lost to Spain. 
 
 General Wilson met the local newspaper editors at his headquar- 
 ters and told them that he would not interfere with publications so long 
 as they contained nothing hostile to the United States. He assured 
 them that our country would do all in its power to increase the com- 
 mercial industry and agriculture of Puerto Kico. 
 
 In the streets boys were distributing handbills containing the 
 proclamation in Spanish of the commission recently returned from the 
 United States. 
 
 The soldiers and people were most friendly. All shopkeepers were 
 protected, and a military patrol afforded ample protection against mis- 
 doing. One of the significant signs of the times was the sale of Spanish- 
 American lexicons to the natives. American rule was an accepted fact, 
 and business men were preparing for the new order of things. 
 
 The next port of consequence east of Ponce, on the south coast 
 of Puerto Rico, is Arroyo, the port of Guayama, three miles inland. 
 Here a division of American troops under General Haines landed on 
 August 2, protected by the fire of the fleet which lay in the harbor. 
 When the troops were landed, it was decided to make Guayama a. base 
 of supplies and the forces moved forward to capture the inland city. 
 Guayama was captured on Friday, the 5th of August, the capture being 
 marked by some stiff fighting, in which Colonel Bennitt's boys of the 
 Third Illinois and the Fourth Ohio regiment under Colonel Colt won 
 honors by their steadiness and obedience to orders. The latter regi- 
 ment had two dynamite guns which proved of great value and worried 
 the Spaniards very perceptibly when they got to work. The enemy 
 began the attack three miles from Arroyo, firing from ambush. Our 
 boys were as cool as veterans, and, after two hours of sharp work, sent 
 the Spaniards flying to the hills. The American troops were armed 
 with Krag-Jorgensen rifles and fired smokeless powder, while the Span- 
 iards had inferior weapons instead of the regulation Mausers, There
 
 336 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RICO. 
 
 were about 400 Spanish soldiers engaged in the attack, and they did 
 the best they could, being aided by the strong position which they held. 
 None of the' Illinois men was hurt, but four men of the Fourth Ohio 
 received wounds. One Spaniard was killed and a number were 
 wounded. 
 
 By this time the American occupation of the south coast had 
 
 advanced sufficiently to continue the definite plan of campaign formed 
 
 by General Miles. The first division, under General 
 
 D ^ I ^ I l EP ^t N Schwan, was to advance from Guanica along the 
 
 OF CAMPAIGN 
 
 UNDER WAY. western coast, via San German and Mayaguez, to 
 Aguadilla, the first port made by Christopher Colum- 
 bus when he discovered the island. From Aguadilla General Sehwaii 
 was to turn eastward along the northern coast to Arecibo. 
 
 The second division, under General Henry, was to push directly 
 north from Ponce through to Utuado, forming a junction with Gen- 
 eral Schwan at Arecibo. 
 
 The main advance of General Wilson's division was to be along the 
 military road from Ponce to San Juan, via Juan Diaz, Coamo, Aibonito, 
 Cayey and Caguas. 
 
 The landing at Arroyo and the capture of Guayama were the first 
 step in another advance by General Brooke over the military road from 
 Guayama to Cayey, where a junction would be formed with General 
 Wilson, thus flanking whatever Spanish troops might be stationed on 
 the road between Ponce and Guayama. Before any of these move- 
 ments could be completed, however, came the armistice and the con- 
 sequent cessation of hostilities. 
 
 It will not take long to relate the condition of affairs at the time 
 the protocol was signed. General Henry in his movement northward 
 from Ponce had passed through Adjuntas and reached Utuado, and was 
 camped within fifteen miles of Arecibo. In the extreme west, General 
 Schwan had marched along the coast and had taken Mayaguez, one 
 of the principal cities of the island, after a sharp skirmish with a force 
 larger than his own. General Wilson had advanced on the military 
 road far enough to occupj* Coamo and make a demonstration before 
 Aibonito, where there was a large Spanish force. General Brooke, with 
 Ins division, was making headquarters at Guayama, the outposts
 
 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RICO. 337 
 
 having advanced a few miles toward the foothills of the mountains. 
 Most of the forces had experienced some opposition in their for- 
 ward movement, although in some instances they were not opposed 
 at all. There was quite a strong resistance made at 
 Coamo by the force of Spanish troops, who fell back GE f E . R ** 
 
 . SHARP rluHT 
 
 upon their trenches and earthwork at Aibonito. AT ^IBONITO. 
 General Wilson advanced against the town on the 
 main road with infantry, cavalry and artillery sufficient to dislodge 
 the Spanish garrison and compel them to fall back. Their retreat, how- 
 ever, was blocked by a regiment of infantry which had been sent to 
 the rear of the town the night before, and, thus flanked, they were 
 driven into disorder and precipitous flight. Many of them were cap- 
 tured. Those who escaped were cavalry, who took to the mountains 
 by paths better known to them than by the Americans. On the 12th 
 of August, General Wilson continued his advance from Coamo toward 
 Aibonito. 
 
 The result of Friday's fighting by General Wilson's troops was a 
 brilliant advance of artillery and the destruction of the Spanish bat- 
 teries on the heights facing Aibonito. The Spanish rifle pits were also 
 cleared. The first firing by the battery, at a range of 2,300 yards, 
 silenced the Spanish guns. Then a portion of the battery, under Lieu- 
 tenant John P. Haines, of the 4th artillery was moved forward within 
 1,000 yards of the Spanish rifle pits and there drove out the enemy 
 and captured a blockhouse. 
 
 The firing of the Spanish riflemen and artillerists was very wild. 
 It reached the American infantry in the hills instead of the attack- 
 ing battery. However, the enemy's rear lines were not dislodged at 
 the end of the day's engagement. A few Americans were wounded. 
 Corporal Swanson of the 3d Wisconsin volunteers was killed by 
 a shell which fell in the midst of the Wisconsin boys. The same mis- 
 sile wounded Corporal Jenks, Private Vought and Private Bunce, all 
 of Company L. Lieutenant Haines, 4th artillery, was hit in the back 
 by a Spanish bullet after the attack had ceased. 
 
 At Guayama the news of peace came just in time to interrupt a 
 lively battle. General Brooke's force, in three strong columns, had 
 begun an advance toward Cayey. Three miles out General Brooke's
 
 338 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF PUERTO RICO. 
 
 troops came upon a force of Spanish occupying strong intrenchments 
 
 on the top of a mountain. Light battery B, Pennsylvania artillery, 
 
 unlimbered its guns, loaded them with shells and 
 
 TVWW TVTVF^l 
 
 uL.7 had just received the order to commence firing when 
 
 Ox 1 LAtt 
 
 WAS RECEIVED. a m essage from General Miles announcing peace was 
 received on the field over a military telegraph wire. 
 The battery immediately was signaled to cease action, to the surprise 
 of all the men, who were keyed up for battle. The news that the war 
 was over spread rapidly among the soldiers, being received by company 
 after company with roars of disgust. The officers could do nothing but 
 leave the battle unfought and withdraw their troops. 
 
 Almost the only aggressive move that had been made by the 
 Spanish in the whole of the operations in Puerto Rico was their effort to 
 retake the lighthouse at Cape San Juan early in the morning of 
 August 9. After the Americans gained possession of the lighthouse 
 a few days before that time, it had been garrisoned by forty sailors 
 from the monitor Amphitrite. The attack by 800 Spanish soldiers was 
 made shortly after midnight. They took Fajardo and hauled down 
 the American flag which had been flying there for a 
 SPA ~^.?T^ PT few da J s - Tli en they moved rapidly along the coast 
 
 TO CAPTLRL 
 
 A LIGHTHOUSE. roa d an u opened on the Americans with Mausers and 
 a machine gun. The American sailors might have 
 been overwhelmed in spite of their desperate fighting if it had not been 
 for the cruiser Cincinnati. The vessel was lying near shore, and, dis- 
 covering the attack, opened on the enemy with the rapid-firing guns. 
 The firing continued for two hours and at daybreak the Spaniards 
 retreated. The loss to the Spanish was not known and the Americans 
 suffered no injury. 
 
 The total loss of the Americans in the campaign in Puerto Rico 
 was three killed and less than fifty wounded. As more than one has 
 said since studying the plan and the execution of that campaign, it 
 is a triumph in military science for a commanding general to so con- 
 duct ' his invasion of a foreign country, with thousands of troops 
 engaged on both sides, that his soldiers think of the undertaking as a 
 pleasant summer experience, regretting to receive word that their war- 
 like labors are over,
 
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 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 
 
 Conditions when Peace Interrupted War in Puerto Rico Brooke and Macias Ex- 
 change Messages Scenes on the Road from the Playa to Ponce The Discovery 
 of a Desperado A Lesson in American Administration General Brooke Begins 
 His Journey across the Island Passing the Spanish Outposts and Rifle Pits 
 Americans Enter Cayey A Stop at the City of Caguas Brooke Enjoys the 
 Hospitality of Macias What the Americans Learned of the Spanish Defenses 
 Difficulties of an Advance through the Mountains of Puerto Rico Arrival of 
 Admiral Schley and General Gordon at San Juan Exchange of Official Cour- 
 tesies between Spanish and Americans Transfer of Authority from Spain to 
 the United States. 
 
 WHEN on the 12th of August Secretary of State Day and 
 Monsieur Cambon, the French ambassador, acting for Spain, 
 affixed their signatures to a protocol which formed the basis 
 of peace negotiations, it left Puerto Rico occupied by the Spanish forces 
 throughout the north half of the island, while the American troops 
 faced them by every avenue of advance from the south coast. In their 
 camps, the Americans settled down to await developments. No prog- 
 ress could be made, under the terms of the protocol, until peace com- 
 missioners were appointed to negotiate details. 
 
 President McKinley appointed not only commissioners to negotiate 
 a final treaty of peace in Paris, but others to deal with the local condi- 
 tions in Puerto Rico and Cuba. For Puerto Rico, Major-General John R. 
 Brooke, Admiral Winfield Scott Schley and Brigadier-General W. W. 
 Gordon were appointed for this service, to meet such officers as Spain 
 should appoint. At that time General Brooke was in command of the 
 division, with headquarters at Guayama, while Admiral Schley and 
 General Gordon were in the United States. It was understood that 
 the two latter members of the commission would reach San Juan, the 
 
 341
 
 342 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 
 
 capital of the island, where the}' were to meet the Spanish commis- 
 sioners, by a vessel which would sail directly there from the United 
 States. 
 
 General Brooke was in doubt at first whether he would sail around 
 the island from Arroyo to San Juan or cross the island by the great 
 militarj* road. To do the latter it would be necessary 
 GENERAL BROOKE to obtain permission from the Spanish, as by the terms 
 
 HIS JOURNEY. ^ ^e protocol no advance could be made from the 
 positions held at the time of its signature. General 
 Brooke came to Ponce to discuss the matter with General Miles. He 
 then telegraphed Captain-General Macias for permission to come across 
 the island and received an affirmative reply. Returning to Guayama, 
 he settled down in his own headquarters, delaying his start northward 
 on the important journey until such a time that he would arrive at San 
 Juan simultaneously with the other members of the commission. 
 
 War was ended, but the operations of peace were quite as in- 
 
 teresting to me and I did not lack for occupation during this period 
 
 of waiting. I happened to be in Ponce on the day of the receipt of 
 
 peace news and remained there for some time thereafter, looking into 
 
 industrial, agricultural and commercial conditions, the character of the 
 
 people and their possibilities, and such other things as would interest 
 
 Americans. Some of the chapters which follow contain portions of the 
 
 result of the inquiry that I directed from Ponce and 
 
 AN UNPLEASANT throughout the surrounding country. Let this chap- 
 
 MEMORY : . 
 
 OF PONCE. *- er " e a mix ture of history and reminiscence. Among 
 
 my memoranda of those days I find one relating an 
 
 incident which came before my observation during that delay at Ponce, 
 
 and shall quote it here as a contribution to the reminiscences of the 
 
 campaign in Puerto Rico. 
 
 Object lessons to the people of this island are expected to be of 
 great value in teaching them the character of their new fellow-country- 
 men, "los Americanos." General Miles hopes that there will be a march 
 across to the north coast on the several lines of advance planned for 
 the military movement in the beginning, in order that the Puerto Ricans 
 may see the American soldiers and their equipment, the American 
 horse, and, not least important, the American army mule. It is be-
 
 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 343 
 
 lieved that the result of this march, with its acompauying features, and 
 the fact that the army is paying for the food it gets, instead of con- 
 fiscating it, will do much to convince the people that they may expect 
 fair treatment from the Americans, but that the latter are amply able 
 to maintain peace and public safety if there be any disturbing elements 
 still doubtful of that fact. The result of this will be of value to encour- 
 age the peaceable and industrious, at the same time discouraging the 
 other kind. Puertoriquefians are still suspicious, and they are but 
 children in their reasoning. It is worth while, for our own sake, to 
 treat them carefully. 
 
 About noon yesterday I was driving from the Playa to Ponce, 
 over that splendid road which the army of invasion found waiting 
 for it. All the way it Avas crowded with oxcarts and army wagons 
 hauling supplies from the port to the city for the men at the front. On 
 either side at intervals were camps of our men, while the street was 
 lined all the way with the little houses of Puertoriquenans, whose cane 
 fields or kitchen gardens extended back from the shade trees surround- 
 ing them. Xearing town, one reaches the ice factory, at the left of 
 the road and but a few yards back of the fence and wagon-gate. Some 
 excitement appeared there and a small crowd was gathering about the 
 gateway. 
 
 As my carriage came opposite the gate into the factory yard, mov- 
 ing slowly to avoid the tangle of men, mule teams and oxcarts, a queer 
 sight appeared. Out of the gateway canie an oxcart of the usual primi- 
 tive sort borne on but two wheels, heavy and lumbering, the oxen 
 yoked by their horns, as is usual in Spanish islands, the driver walk- 
 ing ahead and guiding the animals by means of the prod, with which 
 he jabbed them in the shoulders at intervals. In the middle of the 
 heavy cart was a black man. His arms were tied behind his 
 back, drawn together with rope so tightly that his elbows nearly met. 
 His legs were tied together, well lashed for most of their length. He 
 was laid flat on his face, with his head toward the tail of the cart and 
 his feet toward the oxen. There was nothing between him and the 
 boards of the cart. Around the edge of the vehicle were the usual 
 stakes which prevent a load from falling, and to these the man was 
 lashed by ropes from his arms and from his legs, so that he could not
 
 344 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 
 
 roll or slide about in the cart. He was holding his head up as best 
 he could in the effort to keep his nose and chin from 
 
 AMERICAN hammering against the rough boards of the carl when 
 
 TO A PRISONER. **- rolled over the drainage ditch at the side of the 
 
 street or over the little ruts and lumps which mar 
 
 even this road. Afterward I learned, what was not apparent at the 
 
 moment, but which explained why he was silent, that the man was 
 
 also gagged. At either side of the cart as it turned toward the Playa 
 
 marched two American soldiers with rifles and behind it came another, 
 
 also fully armed. 
 
 My errand in the other direction made it impossible that at the 
 moment I should follow the cavalcade or continue an inquiry as to the 
 crime of which the negro thus triced up had been guilty. Evidently it 
 was a matter of sufficient weight that it would not vanish out of knowl- 
 edge, so I left it till afternoon. This will explain why but one side 
 of the story is told here. As other carriages or horsemen passed me I 
 asked various soldiers, officers and civilians what was the offense of 
 which the black man had been guilty and who he was. There were 
 various answers. One told me that he had been caught in the act of 
 theft. Another said that he had insulted an officer. A third said that 
 the prisoner was a guerrilla who had shot American soldiers after 
 peace was declared. The last explanation was that he had been prod- 
 ding his oxen cruelly, being the driver of a cart, and had refused to stop 
 when warned. 
 
 The explanations were discussed by some of us who had seen the 
 affair with varying opinions. From what we knew of the island situa- 
 tion the guerrilla suggestion was discredited. If he had prodded his 
 oxen as viciously as in some instances was observed the punishment 
 should have been more logical and should have consisted of a. similar 
 case of prodding the man himself. Theft seemed hardly a sufficient 
 explanation. There were not wanting those irreverent ones who argued 
 that if the offense was insulting an officer the circumstances should 
 be very carefully examined on account of the grave difficulty that had 
 been experienced by more than one to refrain from committing that 
 offense themselves. It was finally agreed that if the prisoner had been 
 caught in the act of robbing or mutilating the dead, and had fought
 
 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 345 
 
 viciously when arrested, there might be a sufficient justification for 
 the torture that he had undergone and the care with which he was 
 guarded. It was difficult to conceive of another possible offense of suf- 
 ficient gravity. 
 
 My first call in the afternoon was at the ice factory. There I was 
 told by employes that the prisoner was a regular hand working about 
 the place, loading ice carts and doing other unskilled labor. He was 
 a native of Ponce. It was explained to me that he 
 had been arrested on suspicion of selling liquor in ^ I01iv - 01 THE 
 violation of the military order. Directly across the PUNISHMENT. 
 road from the factory was the camp of the First 
 Regiment of Volunteer Engineers, which had arrived a few days before 
 on the Chester. I was told that the arrest of the negro had been made 
 by order of the captain of D company of that regiment, who had also 
 directed the placing of him in the cart, and that the prisoner had been 
 taken to the quarters of the provost guard. I went across the road 
 and asked for the captain, but he had gone out into the country with 
 a detail from his own company, including, as far as I could learn, the 
 same men who had made the arrest. 
 
 From the ice factory to the old lumber yard, now used by the 
 provost guard, is about two miles. Down that road the desperado had 
 been carted in the manner described, past hundreds of American 
 soldiers and hundreds of Puertoriqueiians, who were thus getting an 
 "object lesson." At the guardhouse the officer in command was hos- 
 pitable. He had not seen the negro himself until after the prisoner 
 had been released from his bonds and brought into the courtyard. But 
 I w T as quite at liberty to see and question him if I liked, so we went 
 into the room used for prisoners and I had a talk with the man. There 
 was little that it was worth while to ask him, for I had seen him at a 
 more interesting time. He told me that he was born in Ponce and 
 that he had worked in the ice factory for a long time. He explained 
 that he had been working all morning loading ice into carts and at last 
 stepped to the door to get a breath of fresh air. Some soldiers were 
 there and an officer, one of whom asked him if any liquor could be had 
 there. He spoke no English, so it is quite possible that they did not 
 understand his answer and that he had not understood their question.
 
 346 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 
 
 At any rate, he asserts that he told them that he supposed they could 
 get liquor somewhere and that they then arrested him for selling in 
 violation of the military order. He claimed that he had offered no 
 resistance and had done nothing with contraband goods. His protesta- 
 tions may be of little value, but the weight of probability seemed to 
 be against a negro hand in an ice factory selling rum to the army. 
 
 The prisoner was at work carrying w r ater when I saw him. There 
 was no certainty when he would be tried, or, indeed, if he would ever 
 be tried. More likely he would be held for a few days at work, the 
 charge against him would be forgotten by the man who made the 
 arrest; the provost officer, who is a good fellow, will decide in his 
 capacity as judge and jury that the punishment is sufficient and the 
 Puertoriqueilan will be set free with a rankle in his breast against the 
 means of justice employed by the Americans. 
 
 It was my desire to reach San Juan as soon as possible, in order 
 to begin certain investigations in the capital where most of the activi- 
 ties of the island are centered. To do this it was nec- 
 HASTE TO REACH eggary for me to j oin General Brooke at Guayama and 
 
 CAPITAL. accompany him on his journey across the island if 
 that would be permitted. There w r ere no railways 
 which could be employed. The only highway between the north and 
 south coasts of the island is the remarkable military road, extending 
 from Ponce to San Juan, with a connecting branch from Guayama, 
 which intersects the main road at Cayey. Many misleading maps show 
 railways ramifying across the island in great number, but they do not 
 exist except as related in a following chapter, which describes the sys- 
 tem in detail. Therefore I drove from Ponce to Guayama by way of 
 Coamo, a journey of some sixty miles, and settled down there to con- 
 tinue my period of waiting in more convenient access to the general 
 whose movements I intended to watch. 
 
 On the morning of Saturday, September 3, General Brooke began 
 his progress across the island, lie was accompanied on the march 
 by his personal staff and two troops of cavalry as an escort. Follow- 
 ing the cavalry came a train of forty army wagons, drawn by Amer- 
 ican army mules and guarded by American infantry. Four ambulances 
 loaded with civil attaches of General Brooke's headquarters and his
 
 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 347 
 
 personal staff completed the official cavalcade. An essential part of 
 it, however, was composed of four carriages bearing a little group 
 of war correspondents, who had been witnessing the operations of the 
 army throughout the campaigns in Cuba and Puerto Rico, and now 
 were anxious to see the final act that indicated peace instead of war. 
 The march across the island began at nine o'clock. With General 
 Brooke and his staff rode General Fred Grant and his staff as an escort 
 through the first few miles of the journey. From 
 
 Guayama the ascent of the military road is constant 
 
 . , , . , JOURXEY ACROSS 
 
 by a considerable grade for at least twelve miles, at PUERTO RICO. 
 
 the end of which distance one has reached an eleva- 
 tion of about 2,500 feet. For a large part of this distance the road is 
 fortified by rifle-pits and intrenchments commanding it from the neigh- 
 boring hills. In some instances these earthworks were in positions 
 altogether inaccessible from the road, because great chasms inter- 
 vened. 
 
 It was at noon of the first day's journey that the first Spanish 
 forces were seen. They had withdrawn their lines since the receipt of 
 peace news, to a position some ten miles back from Guayama, where 
 they lay strongly intrenched. Word had been sent them the day before 
 that General Brooke and his party were to pass on this day by per- 
 mission of Captain-General Macias, so that they were prepared in a 
 measure for what they were to see. As we drew near the outposts we 
 saw that we were hemmed in between two rows of rifle-pits lining 
 the hills on either side of the road, which here lay between the crests 
 of a mountain range. Those rifle-pits may have been empty or not. We 
 could not know. Nevertheless it was a certainty that if there had been 
 any desire to entrap the Americans, they were safely in the trap. 
 
 General Brooke, with his personal staff riding ahead, reached the 
 little group of Spanish officers drawn up to meet them. There was a 
 quick exchange of formal greeting and an offer of hos- 
 pitality, kind enough in its form, but by no means S ^.t ND 
 
 " .1-1-1. -, AMLRILAfli 
 
 hearty. Hundreds of Spanish soldiers were lined up on OFFICERS MEET. 
 either side of the road to watch the American caval- 
 cade pass. There was a halt of perhaps fifteen minutes, during which 
 refreshments were offered the American officers by the Spanish officers,
 
 348 STORIES OF PEACE AMD WAR. 
 
 and a like hospitality was shown the American soldiers by the Spanish 
 privates. Then General Grant and his staff turned back toward 
 Guayama, where he was to remain in command, while General Brooke 
 and his party continued northward. 
 
 We 1 had passed the Spanish lines and w r ere within their territory, 
 virtually unsupported. There was no flag of truce and no American 
 flag carried with the party. The party was there by sufferance and 
 the courtesy of the Spanish captain-general. The rest of the journey 
 was through the enemy's country. We could not help being reminded 
 of the exchanged messages between one American commander and one 
 Spanish commander whose forces were facing each other on the road 
 at the time the news of peace was received. Under a flag of truce the 
 American sent word to the Spaniard that he had been instructed to 
 notify him of the signing of the protocol and the cessation of hostilities. 
 Quick came the reply: 
 
 "I have had no word to that effect from the captain-general 
 of Puerto Rico. " If the American commander desires to be assured 
 of a cessation of hostilities, let him be careful to remain where he is." 
 
 The first day's march of General Brooke and his escort ended at the 
 town of Cayey, where the military road from San Juan branches in 
 two directions, one to Ponce and the other to Guayama, whence we 
 had come. The entrance into Cayey was an event of great interest 
 to the villagers as well as to the strangers. Thousands of Puerto- 
 riqueilans lined the streets and fell in behind the Americans as the pro- 
 cession passed. The little boys of Puerto Rico are as fond of a military 
 parade as are the youngsters of America and ran as eagerly at the 
 sight of the soldiers. 
 
 To the people of Cayey, as well as to the Spanish soldiers, the size 
 
 of the Americans and their equipment was a source of never-failing 
 
 wonder. "Gran hombre, gran caballo!" we heard all along the way. 
 
 "Great men and great horses" they were indeed, meas- 
 
 N SIONS OF THE ured 1>J s P anish standards. No such horses and no 
 
 AMERICANS. sucl1 sol(15fir > s had PVPF been seen on the island before. 
 
 General Brooke had with him a train of forty army 
 
 wagons containing thirty days' rations and thirty days' forage for his 
 
 whole expedition, besides camp equipage complete. The train extended
 
 STORIES OF PEACE AtfD WA& 340 
 
 almost a mile behind the cavalry escort, each wagon drawn by six huge 
 American army mules. No such commissary service ever was main- 
 tained by the Spanish army in the island, and it was an amazement 
 to the people. The mules were not the least of their wonder. When 
 one laid back his ears and kicked viciously, the crowd scattered as if a 
 beast of prey had been let loose in the throng. Altogether it w r as a 
 valuable impression that was left upon the minds of the people and 
 the soldiers. 
 
 The second day's march brought General Brooke and his expedi- 
 tion to the city of Caguas, where similar scenes were enacted upon his 
 arrival. There was an evident difference, however, between the feelings 
 of the people of the two tow r ns. Caguas is notably pro-Spanish in its 
 sentiment, while Cayey is composed almost entirely of native Puerto- 
 riqueiians. In both places the presence of Spanish garrisons and hun- 
 dreds of Spanish soldiers in the streets caused the crowd to be a silent 
 one. There was no disposition to cheer the Americans w r ho were pass- 
 ing through when such enthusiasm might result in 
 trouble the day after they were gone. These Spanish 
 garrisons were to remain there for an indefinite time WELCOMED. 
 and this part of the island was still Spanish territory. 
 It was easily seen, however, that the people of Cayey were happy in 
 the prospect of American dominance, while many of those of Caguas 
 resented the intrusion in silence. 
 
 In each town as the cavalcade advanced, the eyes of all the on- 
 lookers w r ere turned upon the commanding general and his brilliant staff 
 mounted on superb saddle-horses. The strapping cavalrymen, almost 
 as well mounted, were the next center of interest. Then a murmur ran 
 through the crowd that thronged each side of the street and filled every 
 porch and doorway and window. "Una senorita Americana," "An 
 American lady," and Mrs. White, who accompanied me, w r as the object 
 upon which every eye was focused. Probably few of them ever had 
 seen an American woman before and she was of quite as much interest 
 to them as even the general of the army. 
 
 A third day of progress brought General Brooke to the little 
 suburban city of Rio Piedras, nine miles from San Juan, the capital, 
 where his halt was made. Captain-General Macias had done him the
 
 350 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 
 
 courtesy to offer his own country house, a most attractive residence, at 
 this place, as a home for the American general. The troops went into 
 camp in a field a mile away, while the officers quartered themselves in 
 the neighboring houses, General Brooke's staff remaining with him in 
 the captain-general's house. For the next few days the American camp 
 was the scene of interest for thousands of the people of Puerto Kico 
 as well as many of the Spanish soldiers. The camp w^as an ideal one 
 in location and arrangement. It was beautifully kept and carefully 
 policed, so that it served as a model to show what the Americans could 
 do when they tried. 
 
 The Spanish were not the only soldiers who had had an impres- 
 sive lesson on that journey across Puerto Rico. If they had learned 
 the size and excellent equipment of American soldiers, 
 CAN ^.j ie ^\ mer i canSj too, had learned more respect for their 
 THE SPANISH Spanish enemy. The force kept in Puerto Eico by 
 Spain was a selected army, of the highest type of 
 soldiers that the peninsula could furnish. It w r as well equipped and 
 well nurtured. There Avas no such hardship and poverty to be under- 
 gone as that which had enfeebled the Spanish army in Cuba. They 
 were soldiers in the genuine military sense of the word and quite able 
 and willing to make a fight for their country. 
 
 It is true that Spanish garrisons along the south coast of the island 
 fell back after the landing of the American army of invasion without 
 very strenuous opposition. But the conditions were perfectly obvious 
 to one who studied the matter. The garrisons at Guanica, Ponce and 
 Guayama were detached bodies, remote from their supports and facing 
 an overwhelming landing force. When, however, they withdrew to 
 their works in the mountains the condition became very different. The 
 Spanish army in Puerto Kico, intrenched as it was in the mountains 
 between Aibonito and Tayey and between Guayama and Cayey, would 
 have offered a resistance to an American advance which could not have 
 been overcome without an enormous loss of life and desperate fighting. 
 
 Those mountain defiles were so fortified as to be almost impreg- 
 nable. From cliffs and hills above, artillery and machine guns, as well 
 as rifles, could sweep the road over which an advancing force must 
 pass, with a fire that would be simply intolerable. At the same time
 
 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. '351 
 
 the men at the guns would be absolutely concealed and exempt from 
 even a threat of danger in many instances. 
 
 The system of rifle-pits and earthworks of all sorts guarding the 
 military road through this range of mountains was so perfect as to 
 compel the admiration of the American soldiers and 
 officers who caught but a bare glimpse of it. It was DEFENSES OF 
 
 rpTip P0\|l Af'ltOS^ 
 
 frankly admitted to me by officers of General Brooke's THE INLAND 
 staff who studied the situation that the difficulties 
 of an advance across the island by this road would have been terrific. 
 The campaign as far as it was carried was simple and easy. We have 
 reason to be thankful that peace intervened before it became necessary 
 to force a passage into Aibonito and Cayey. 
 
 If the American advance had successfully passed the fortifications 
 in the mountains, there would have been no other obstacles of great 
 consequence until the city of San Juan itself was approached. Then, 
 however, unless an American fleet had reduced the city by bombard- 
 ment and made its fortifications untenable, the Americans would have 
 met a resistance exceedingly difficult to overcome. In another chapter I 
 shall describe the defenses of this perfect example of an ancient walled 
 city in more detail. Here it is to be said only that the city is on an 
 island with but one approach available for forces advancing by land. 
 The rifle-pits and fortresses guarding the bridges are of the most perfect 
 character and would form an obstacle, when well manned, almost in- 
 surmountable for infantry and cavalry. It is a question even if suf- 
 ficient artillery could have been brought across the island to make an 
 adequate assault on the city's defenses to the east. Here again, then, 
 there must have been great loss of life before the city could be taken. 
 
 Two or three days after General Brooke reached I\io Piedras, the 
 transport Seneca, with Admiral Schley and General Gordon and their 
 staffs, arrived in the harbor of San Juan. The United States cruiser 
 New Orleans by this time was lying in the harbor, 
 near the Spanish gunboat Isabel Segunda. Salutes ^i^ 1 * AN ^ 
 were exchanged between these vessels and Morro CH^XGE SALUTES. 
 castle. The New Orleans fired an admiral's salute of 
 thirteen guns, to which the Isabel Segunda responded. Then the New 
 Orleans set the Spanish flag at the peak and saluted it with thirteen
 
 352* STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 
 
 guns, which salute was replied to by order of Captain-General Macias 
 from Morro castle. During the afternoon Admiral Schley and General 
 Gordon came ashore and took up their quarters at Hotel Inglaterra, 
 to remain during the sessions of the military commission. 
 
 About three o'clock in the afternoon General Brooke arrived at 
 the Inglaterra from his headquarters in Rio Piedras and the three com- 
 missioners were together for the first time. In my San Juan memor- 
 anda for September 7 I find the following account which I wrote then 
 of an incident, which may be of interest : 
 
 "Spanish and American officials in this island have exchanged pre- 
 liminary formalities and assurances of their mutual distinguished con- 
 sideration and regard. All that is left to do is to settle the arrange- 
 ments for evacuation by the former for the place to become the prop- 
 erty of the United States in fact. The new tenant is not disposed to 
 be pressing in asking the old one to move out too hurriedly, but the 
 process will not be long delayed. 
 
 "For the last few days I have been about the palace of the captain- 
 general a good deal, on various personal and official errands, and it has 
 been impossible not to feel the pathos of the situation as it affects 
 many persons when one stops to consider the personal equation in it. 
 This phase of the matter was brought most forcibly to mind yesterday, 
 when the first formal call was made, the victors seeking the vanquished 
 in the halls that were so soon to be transferred. Not many were favored 
 with a sight of this particular event in the progress of the history of 
 reconstruction, and those who were present will not forget it. 
 
 "About half-past three I went to the palace to have a cable mes- 
 sage passed by the censor, a privilege which the Spanish officials still 
 reserve. The official interpreter first reads the mes- 
 
 D ^ IX(iS x^ H Sil ^' wh(>n this form is 1o b(i gone through, and, hav- 
 THL SPANISH 
 
 CENSOR. ln -^' * am iliarized himself with what is desired to be 
 
 sent, takes it to the secretary of the local island gov- 
 ernment, viitually a cabinet minister in local affairs, and reads it to 
 him in Spanish, translating as lie goes. Once approved, the message 
 is stamped on the back of each sheet over which it extends, the last one 
 is signed by the secretary, and the formality is over. The secretary is 
 not exacting now, and little is forbidden to be sent, but the labor of
 
 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 353 
 
 the journey to the palace and the delays of waiting there are some- 
 times annoying. 
 
 "Yesterday the interpreter told me that the British consul was 
 with the secretary and it would be necessary to wait. Meanwhile we 
 talked of those things in the United States and those books in English 
 which the interpreter knew from his travel and study, and we were 
 having a very pleasant little visit of our own when the rattle of car- 
 riage wheels was heard on the pavement outside. It was the arrival 
 of the American commissioners. 
 
 "Out of the office bolted the secretary, down the hall, and up the 
 stairs, to reach the grand salon above before the Americans should 
 enter. The interpreter followed in haste. The clerks and the under- 
 secretaries lined up in the entrance hall to see the distinguished 
 visitors, who w r ere halting at the entrance until they should all be out 
 of their carriages and arranged in proper order of precedence. The 
 under-secretary turned to me in haste. 
 
 "'Do you know which is Admiral Schley?' he asked hurriedly, 
 anxious, like all the others here, to see the man who destroyed Cervera's 
 fleet. I pointed out the admiral, and then the other members of 
 the commission and the distinguished officers who 
 accompanied them. As the last of the score of Amer- WARM KTERE ST 
 
 1 _nj 
 
 icans in uniform passed down the hall and turned ADMIRAL SCHLEY. 
 
 up the stairs, the sentries closing in behind them to 
 
 prevent the entrance of any one else to the palace, he turned to me 
 
 again with a signal to advance, and we walked up the stairs behind 
 
 them. 
 
 "The suite of rooms in w r hich the captain-general received the 
 eminent callers consisted of three lofty chambers, connecting by wide 
 arched doorways and extending all the way across the west, face of that 
 wing of the palace. The first was an ante-room, into which w r e w r ere 
 ushered, and from it the commissioners, with their staff officers and 
 interpreters, passed into the middle one, where Captain-General Macias 
 awaited them with his own staff. There was a significant circumstance 
 visible at once. The moment the Spanish officers saw the throng of 
 Americans crowding the ante-room, preparatory to entering the next 
 apartment, they moved on into the next room, the third and last of the
 
 354 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 
 
 suite, nor did they again enter the chamber where the call was actually 
 in progress. 
 
 "Captain-General Macias waited alone with his interpreter in the 
 middle room of the three for the Americans to advance. They were 
 ushered toward him, the introductions were made formally, but rapidly, 
 and the crowd formed into groups for conversation. On the west wall 
 of the chamber, and between two windows, hung a great portrait of 
 the queen regent of Spain. Under this stood a sofa with room enough 
 for <hree to be seated on it, and this was the center of attraction. 
 Major-General Brooke sat in the center, with Captain-General Macias 
 
 at his left and his own interpreter at the right. In 
 EXOEST MEN a chair at the end of the sof ^ and so next to the 
 
 EXCHANGE 
 COURTESIES. Spanish commander, was Rear-Admiral Scnley, 
 
 Brigadier-General Michael Sheridan, General 
 Brooke's chief of staff, next beyond. Brigadier-General Gordon was 
 seated at the right of General Brooke's interpreter, and, with this 
 crescent as a center of interest, the other Americans were seated facing 
 them. 
 
 "During the fifteen minutes through which the call extended, the 
 ante-room was occupied by half a dozen Spanish officers, who sur- 
 rounded me and sought information concerning the identity of the vari- 
 ous Americans. Schley was the one of greatest interest to them, and 
 he w r as studied keenly enough that they will all know him the next 
 time. There remained no doubt after my conversation with them, what 
 they thought of the relative work of American ships in the destruction 
 of the fleet of Cervera, and the place where the credit belonged. They 
 were exceedingly interested, too, to know that General Sheridan is the 
 brother of the Phil Sheridan whose name they knew so well. They 
 were generous in their compliments concerning the fine-looking men in 
 the staff and were in every way civil and friendly. One of the officers 
 said to me that he felt sorry for those who had withdrawn into the 
 third room, because they had no one in reach who could name to them 
 the different Americans in the party. 
 
 "It seems worth while to say here that the only other American 
 present at the ceremony except those officers of the army and navy in 
 the commission or on the staff of the commissioners was Mr. T. Dart
 
 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 355 
 
 Walker, the special artist for Harper's Weekly, who was able to obtain 
 an excellent sketch of the scene. No other newspaper correspondents 
 were in the palace." 
 
 A day later Captain-General Macias returned the call of the Amer- 
 ican commissioners and then the work of drawing up the plans for the 
 Spanish evacuation of the island began. At the end 
 of one week there was perceptible progress and every- CAPTA IN-GENERAL 
 
 MACIAS 
 
 thing was running as smoothly as could be expected. MAKES A CALL. 
 At last the labors were completed and finally the day 
 was fixed for the hoisting of the American flag over San Juan and the 
 complete and permanent occupation of the island by the military forces 
 of the United States. 
 
 American men-of-war and American transports by this time had 
 entered the harbor of the capital to take part in the quiet and dignified 
 ceremony. On October 18, at eleven o'clock, the llth infantry, with 
 two batteries of the 5th artillery, landed. The latter proceeded to 
 Morro castle, which was to be occupied as a fortress, w T hile the infantry 
 lined up on the docks. It was a holiday for San Juan and there were 
 many people on the streets. Rear Admiral Schley and General Gordon, 
 accompanied by their staffs, proceeded to the governor's palace in car- 
 riages. 
 
 The llth infantry regiment and band, with troop H of the Cth 
 United States cavalry, then marched through the streets, and formed 
 in the square opposite the palace. At 11:40 A. M. General Brooke, 
 Admiral Schley and General Gordon came out of the palace with many 
 officers and formed on the right side of the square. The street behind 
 the soldiers was thronged with townspeople, who stood waiting in dead 
 silence. 
 
 At last the city clock struck the hour of 12, and the crowds, almost 
 breathless, and with eyes fixed upon the flag pole, watched for develop- 
 ments. At the sound of the first gun from Morro, 
 Major Dean and Lieutenant Castle, of General AM !^iJj AG 
 Brooke's staff, hoisted the stars and stripes, while the PUERTO RICO. 
 band played the "Star-Spangled Banner." All heads 
 were bared, and the crowds cheered. Fort Morro, Fort San Cristobal
 
 356 STORIES OF PEACE AND WAR. 
 
 and the United States revenue cutter Manning, lying in the harbor, 
 fired twenty-one guns each. 
 
 Sefior Munoz Rivera, who was president of the recent autonomist 
 council of secretaries, and other officials of the late insular government 
 were present at the proceedings. 
 
 Congratulations and handshaking among the American officers fol- 
 lowed. Ensign King hoisted the stars and stripes on the Intendencia, 
 ibut all other flags on the various public buildings were hoisted by mili- 
 tary officers. Simultaneously with the raising of the flag over the cap- 
 tain-general's palace many others were hoisted in different parts of 
 the city. 
 
 General Guy V. Henry, the military governor of Puerto Rico, took 
 charge of the administration of island affairs without delay, enlisting 
 the people of prominence locally in the duties of government as fully 
 as possible. Welcoming the American influence as heartily as they did, 
 the people looked forward to the time when they 
 PUERTOW^JENANS shoul(1 be added definitely to the relations of citizen- 
 
 ASPIRATIONS. ship- A convention was held in San Juan at the call 
 of General Ilenrj', at which delegates were present 
 from all the important towns of the island. They declared enthusias- 
 tically for free trade with the United States, compulsory education 
 and territorial organization, with a view to early statehood for the 
 inhabitants on the same basis as the citizens of the other states of the 
 Union. 
 
 Except for a slight feeling of irritation among the people of Puerto 
 Rico at what they considered the unnecessarily prolonged stringency 
 of the military rule, this was the condition of affairs in Puerto Rico 
 from the time peace came until a more definite form of government was 
 under discussion by congress to be enacted for the island.
 
 A COLORED BELLE OF PUERTO RICO 
 
 The mixture of African with Spanish blood is not found in all of the people of this island. 
 The higher classes of white people hold themselves as strictly in their own society as in any other 
 country. This attractive colored girl is of the higher type of that race.
 
 CONFECTION VENDERS OF PUERTO RICO 
 
 The people of Puerto Rico are as fond of confectionery as our own. It is the habit to buy from 
 street hucksters more frequently than we do, and these in the picture are familiar types. The candies 
 they carry usually are made of chocolate, cocoanut and suj^ar.
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 
 
 Mountain Ranges and Peaks of Puerto Rico The Island Well Watered by Rivers 
 Condition of the Harbors Perfection of the Climate Healthfulness of the 
 Island Land and Sea Breezes Exemption from Hurricanes Minerals and 
 Mineral Springs The Adjacent Islands Vieques or Crab Island Culebra 
 Mona Population of Puerto Rico The City of San Juan and Its Fortifications 
 Public .Buildings and Streets Ponce, the Southern Port Other Cities of the 
 Island The Towns and Villages of the Interior Characteristics of the People 
 of Puerto Rico. 
 
 VISITORS from the United States are likely to reach the island 
 of Puerto Rico by way of one of two ports, San Juan Bautista de 
 Puerto Rico, the capital, or Ponce, the largest city. By which- 
 ever avenue the island is entered, the first glimpse the stranger will 
 have is that of the mountains. The Sierras extend the length of the 
 island from east to west, forming a great backbone ridge, from w T hich 
 rivers flow both north and south into the sea. The ascent from the 
 sea to the mountains is gradual, both on the north and the south until 
 the foothills are reached, when the slopes become more precipitous. 
 All of the ranges are heavily wooded or cultivated, so that the aspect 
 is beautifully green from every point of view. The highest peak in 
 the island is El Yunque or the anvil, variously stated as from 3,,600 to 
 5,100 feet in height. Xo accurate measurement has been made. It is 
 situated in the northeastern part of the island, not many miles from 
 Cape San Juan, and is visible from the sea at a distance of nearly 
 seventy miles. There are several other peaks of height ranging from 
 2,500 to 4,000 feet. 
 
 The central mountain range, extending from east to west, divides 
 the island into two unequal portions, the larger one to the north. In 
 the eastern half of the island, however, the range divides and incloses 
 a large part of the province of Guayama in a great interior valley. All 
 of the rivers rise in the mountains and flow through deep valleys which 
 
 359
 
 360 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 
 
 they have eroded. Most of the harbors are situated at the mouths of 
 
 these rivers, and, except in two or three instances, are complicated by 
 
 harbor bars, which make entrance and navigation 
 
 SITUATION OF somewnat difficult. In an island of this size it is 
 
 AND RIVERS. hardly to be expected that many lakes of consequence 
 
 would be found, although there are several small ones 
 
 along the north coast. Nature has been generous, however, with rivers 
 
 and the island is marvelously well watered. In the small area of less 
 
 than 4,000 square miles there are nearly fifty rivers flowing into the 
 
 sea, besides countless rivulets and streams. 
 
 Seventeen of these, taking their rise in the mountains, cross the 
 valleys of the north coast. Some of these are navigable for six or eight 
 miles from their mouths, for schooners and small coasting vessels. It 
 is difficult to understand how such large bodies of water can be col- 
 lected in so short a course. The Loisa river, the Manati river, the 
 Trabajo river and the Arecibo river are very deep and broad. The 
 rivers of Bayamon and Piedras flow into the harbor of San Juan and 
 are also navigable. From Arecibo river to Manati, a distance of tw r enty- 
 five miles, a fresh-water lagoon, navigable for small vessels through the 
 whole of its extent, runs parallel with the sea at a distance of about 
 a mile from the shore. 
 
 The rivers of the north coast have a decided advantage over those 
 of the south coast, where the climate is dryer and the rains less fre- 
 quent. Nevertheless the south, west and east coasts are well supplied 
 with water, and, although in some seasons it does not rain for several 
 months on the south coast, the rivers are never dry. Probably there is 
 no land of corresponding size anywhere in the w r orld that is better 
 watered than the island of Puerto Rico. 
 
 The harbors of Puerto Kioo have not been developed and improved 
 as they will be under an American regime, there being but few of spe- 
 cial merit at present. San Juan, the capital, has the 
 
 NILMKER AND 1)( , st } iarbor ()f f]lo j s ] an( l an d one o f t ] ie best i n the 
 
 THE HARBORS. ^ os ^ Indies. Of late years some improvements have 
 
 been made by dredging, so that there is now excellent 
 
 deep-water anchorage for vessels of any size. The port is perfectly 
 
 sheltered from the effects of the north winds by the hill upon which
 
 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 361 
 
 the city stands and vessels are perfectly secure even during the hurri- 
 cane months. The entrance to the port is narrow, however, and requires 
 a pilot. 
 
 The city of Aguadilla has a small cove and Mayaguez has also 
 an open roadstead, which is somewhat better protected. The bays 
 and harbors which abound on the south coast are surrounded by man- 
 groves and complicated by reefs, so that the only ones where vessels 
 of considerable draft can enter are Guanica and Ponce. The first of 
 these, which is the westernmost harbor of the south coast, is easy of 
 access and completely land-locked, affording perfect shelter for ves- 
 sels drawling twenty-one feet of water and upwards. There are no 
 wharves, however, for the village of Guanica has no outward trade 
 and Yauco does not carry on sufficient trade to be of much consequence. 
 
 The port of Ponce is but little protected from southerly winds and 
 is by no means the best of harbors. Nevertheless the volume of traffic 
 of this city has been great enough to draw considerable shipping into 
 this port. The port of Jobos, southwest of Guayama, is a large and 
 well-inclosed bay, but there has been no business and no town devel- 
 oped on its shores. Its convenience and depth would suggest that some 
 day an important business center would be established there. The 
 port of Guayama at present is Arroyo, which is little more than an 
 open roadstead where the surf always washes. The only ports of any 
 consequence on the east coast are Fajardo, where two little islands 
 close the mouth of the bay and offer complete shelter to vessels, and 
 Humacao. 
 
 The climate of Puerto Rico is, perhaps, the finest of all the islands 
 of the West Indies. The temperature, as would be expected in the 
 tropics, is high both summer and winter, in compari- 
 son with that of more northern lands. Nevertheless, IDEAL CLIMATE 
 
 OF 
 it is not so severe as to be trying upon any except those PUERTO RICO. 
 
 who suffer especially from hot weather. The north 
 coast has an advantage over the south coast in this, as in the matter 
 of rains and rivers. All summer it is swept by the northeast breezes 
 from the north Atlantic ocean, thus moderating its heat materially. 
 The south coast, on the other hand, gets its breezes from the Caribbean 
 sea and farther into the tropics. For myself I can affirm that the sum-
 
 362 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 
 
 mer season in Puerto Kico afforded me more comfort than the corre- 
 sponding season in Chicago has done many, many times. 
 
 In San Juan the temperature rarely rises above eighty-six degrees 
 in the shade, nor does it sink below fifty-nine degrees. The highest 
 point ever reached in the last five years is ninety-two degrees. The hot 
 season sets in about July 1 and lasts till the latter part of September. 
 The rainy season commences one month later and lasts two months 
 longer. Even earlier than that, however, rains begin sufficiently to 
 water the crops and stimulate nature to remarkable productiveness. 
 
 During the hot season the morning hours are the most trying part 
 
 of the day. By ten o'clock, however, the sea breeze brings relief and 
 
 life becomes thoroughly comfortable again. Even in the rainy season 
 
 the showers are not as constant as many people imagine. There are 
 
 frequent brief rain storms of considerable violence 
 
 CHARACTERISTICS and t j ien ^ sky c i ears aga i n w ith surprising rapid- 
 
 RAEVY SEASON ^ v> ^ s * ue i s ^ an( l oue mass of hills and the natural 
 drainage is perfect, the torrents of rain disappear into 
 the water courses as suddenly as they came and everything is dry 
 again, as well as greener and fresher for the shower bath. A wetting 
 from such a shower in such a climate brings no chill and if a change 
 of clothing be impossible the light garments dry quickly on the body, 
 and there is no harm done. People pa} 4 very little attention altogether 
 to the rains in Puerto Rico. 
 
 I have been speaking of the climate in the cities and along the 
 coast, where Americans are most likely to be. It is impossible, how- 
 ever, to generalize on the subject of climate, even in an island no larger 
 than Puerto Rico. In the mountains the inhabitants enjoy the coolness 
 of spring the }-ear around, thanks to their altitude, even when the val- 
 leys are the hottest. This difference of elevation makes it possible to 
 select a residence in almost any temperature desired and the agricul- 
 tural industries of the island are so varied that there is something suit- 
 able for every neighborhood. 
 
 Puerto Rico- is one of the most healthful islands in the world. With 
 ordinary caution and diet, particularly as to the eating of tropical 
 fruits, and if care is taken not to sleep in a draught, no fears need 
 be entertained of fevers and other diseases peculiar to the tropics. Al-
 
 PUERTO .RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 363 
 
 though one would suppose that all the large islands in the tropics enjo^ 
 the same climate, yet Jamaica, Santo Domingo and Cuba experience a 
 much higher mortality than that of Puerto Hico, and that is the best 
 test. The small islands of the West Indies, some of them destitute of 
 wood and high mountains, which have a powerful 
 effect in attracting clouds, suffer much from drought. BLESSISGS 
 The land-breeze is an advantage which the large i^jj BREEZE. 
 islands derive from the inequality of their surface, 
 for as soon as the sea-breeze dies away, the hot air of the valleys, being 
 rarified, ascends toward the top of the mountains and is there con- 
 densed by the cold, making it heavy again. It then descends back to 
 the valleys on both sides of the ridge. Hence a night wind, blowing 
 on all sides, from the land toward the shore, is felt in all the mountain- 
 ous countries within the torrid zone. 
 
 Violent wind storms and hurricanes have been unknown in Puerto 
 Eico for many years. The last one of any consequence was that of 
 1825, which destroyed several towns and caused much damage to 
 agriculture. The hurricanes of the West Indies, which are so dreaded 
 by mariners and by the people on shore alike, seem to have left Puerto 
 Rico almost exempt. Earthquakes are somewhat frequent, but not 
 violent or of great consequence. Rain storms in the midst of the rainy 
 season are sometimes very violent, damaging bridges and growing crops 
 along the streams into which they drain. This is almost the only ex- 
 ception to nature's kindness to the inhabitants of Puerto Rico. 
 
 The pleasantest time of year for an American's visit to the island 
 is after the rainy season ends in the late fall. At that time the 
 weather begins to be clear and fine and every condition is favorable 
 to the most comfortable travel in the island. 
 
 Puerto Rico is by no means rich in minerals. Galena is mined at 
 La Rosita, in the province of Guayama; gold is washed in various 
 streams, lignite is found, and there are various salt 
 
 ponds which are worked commercially. Copper and 
 
 MUVEBAlj 
 iron are reported to exist. There are various mineral WEALTH 
 
 springs of healing virtue, particularly the famous 
 
 Banos de Coamo. The sulphur baths of Quintana, near Ponce, and the 
 
 springs of Juana Diaz are notable locally among the islanders.
 
 364 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 
 
 There are several caves of considerable size. The most notable 
 one is that of Aguas Buenas, which shows conclusively the volcanic 
 origin of the island. It is tortuous, with deep recesses, but the myriads 
 of bats inhabiting it render a visit far from pleasant. The names of 
 other caves are, the "Cave of the Dead," in Utuado; Consejo cave, in 
 Arecibo, and the cave of Ciales. 
 
 Adjacent to Puerto Rico on the east, w r est and south are several 
 little islands which belong to the colony geographically and the owner- 
 ship of which we inherit from the Spanish. The largest of these is 
 Isla de Vieques or Crab island, which lies directly east of Puerto Rico, 
 thirteen miles from the port of Ilumacao. This island is twenty-one 
 miles long and six miles wide, with a chain of mountains dividing it 
 through its entire length. The highest of these mountains reaches an 
 elevation of 1,000 feet, Mount Pirata at the west end, but this is a suffi- 
 cient elevation to protect the valleys from the tropical storms that some- 
 times reach the island after they have swept through the Caribbees. 
 The soil is very fertile. All the fruits and vegetables which may be 
 grown in the West Indies will flourish here, and even now, under ex- 
 tremely adverse circumstances, sugar is cultivated and cattle raised 
 with profit. The mountains are covered with forests of timber. The 
 products of the island would find markets at Ponce and St. Thomas 
 if not in the United States. 
 
 About 6,000 persons, white and black, compose the population of 
 Vieques. The capital, Isabella Segunda, is in the middle of the north 
 coast, its harbor, Port Mula, being the extreme northern point of the 
 island. Like all harbors on this side it is unsafe for anchorage during 
 northerly gales, but Port de Arenas is only a short distance to the 
 west around the end of the island, while on the south are the inlets 
 of Ferro, Mosquito and Real. Some years ago there were two im- 
 porting and exporting houses of importance at Isa- 
 
 \ROTIT 
 
 . bella Segunda, and the now vacant warehouses are 
 OF VIEQUES. in ^ 00<1 r(1 l )a i r > awaiting the advent of some enter- 
 prising American, who will buy them for a song. 
 Business was ruined on the island because of a long drought and 
 under the pressure of enormously high duties on foreign imported 
 goods the trade has decreased to local consumption only. For some
 
 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 365 
 
 time past all supplies have been brought from San Juan and Ponce, 
 the majority being of American origin. The climate of Vieques is 
 good and contagious diseases have never been known on the island. 
 The sea air is delightfully bracing and the thermometer is ever at 
 that comfortable mark which permits the wearing of duck clothing all 
 the year around. 
 
 Culebra, eight miles north of Vieques, is an island eight miles 
 by three and a half miles in extent, to the east of which is the fas- 
 cinating islet of Culebrita. The lighthouse is here and a beautiful 
 harbor is to be found in the narrow^ channel between. To the west 
 of Culebra is the isle of Polominos, but a few miles from Fajardo, on 
 the main island of Puerto Rico, and well protected by the hill, across 
 a stretch of water, from which rises the stately white lighthouse of 
 Cabeza de San Juan. Here the waters of the Caribbean sea, playing 
 at hide and seek among the reefs and shoals which fringe the east 
 coast of Puerto Rico, join the heavy swells of the Atlantic and strive 
 for mastery at each change of the current. 
 
 On the southern coast of Puerto Rico, opposite the harbor of 
 Ponce and but five miles from shore, is Caja de Muerto island, where 
 there is good anchorage. Its coasts abound in fish and are surrounded 
 by quays. To the w^est of Cape Rojo, off the western coast of Puerto 
 Rico, is the island of Mona, of volcanic origin. Its coasts rise perpen- 
 dicularly to a great height above the sea level. It is inhabited by a 
 few fishermen and abounds in wild cattle, goats and swine. It is this 
 island that gives the name to the Mona passage, the channel sepa- 
 rating Puerto Rico from Haiti. Monito is a very small island north 
 of Mona. Besides these there are many islets and quays along the east 
 coast of Puerto Rico from Cape San Juan southward to Humacao. 
 
 The total population of the island of Puerto Rico is, perhaps, 900,- 
 000, although there is no census sufficiently accurate to afford definite 
 figures. The island is known as "the whitest of the 
 Antilles" because the negro population is less domi- 
 
 AiMJ KALLh Or 
 
 nant there than in any other of the vV est Indies. PUERTO RICO. 
 Probably 150,000 of the inhabitants are peninsulares, 
 as the natives of Spain are termed throughout the colony. From 12,000 
 to 14,000 are foreigners, mostly Frenchmen, Germans, Italians and
 
 360 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 
 
 Englishmen. The native population is composed of about two-thirds 
 whites, who are descendants of Spaniards, and one-third negroes, and 
 those of mixed blood or half-castes. Many of the blacks come from 
 Barbadoes, Jamaica, St. Thomas and the other Antilles. It is evident 
 that the density of population of the island is great, the nearest esti- 
 mates calculating about 250 per square mile. This far outranks the 
 population of Cuba, for the latter island, although some thirteen times 
 as large as Puerto Rico, contains not nearly twice as. large a popula- 
 tion. This fact must be kept in mind in calculating the possibilities 
 of the commercial and agricultural development of the country. 
 
 The western part of the island is far more densely populated than 
 the eastern. The reason for this probably lies in the fact that the 
 east coast is on the windward side and offers less protection for ship- 
 ping, consequently it is not so conveniently situated for trade. All 
 of the larger towns of the east are situated inland or at least some 
 distance from the coast. They are in the hilly portion of the island 
 and are surrounded by rich coffee plantations and grazing land of con- 
 siderable extent. 
 
 The inhabitants of Puerto Kico are scattered all over the country 
 
 and there is no unsettled district. In spite of the fact that they have 
 
 many towns and villages, some of them of consider- 
 
 TfTf T'XTTKT' 
 
 able size, vet there is no road so lonesome that the 
 
 ISLAND 
 
 THICKLY SETTLED. na ^ lve cabins do not appear at frequent intervals sur- 
 rounded by their own little farm and garden. Within 
 the last fifty years, however, while the population has been steadily 
 increasing, there has been a drift into the towns and cities, so that 
 these have grown more rapidly than the rural districts. 
 
 San Juan, the capital of Puerto Rico, with a population of some 
 33,000, is one of the most picturesque examples of the walled city of 
 antiquity that can be found anywhere. It is situated on the northern 
 coast, on a long and narrow island separated from the main island 
 of Puerto Rico by a shallow arm of the sea. At the western extremity 
 of the city, the island site ends with a rugged promontory and bluff 
 more than 100 feet in height, facing the sea and the harbor entrance. 
 This is crow r ned with the principal fortification of the city, the famous 
 Morro castle. Tlio form of the castle is that of an obtuse angle, with
 
 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 367 
 
 three tiers of batteries, placed one above the other, toward the sea, 
 their fires crossing one another. Toward the city it has a wall flanked 
 by tw r o bastions of heavy artillery, which dominate all the interme- 
 diate space, covering- the city thoroughly and indicating an intent to 
 prepare for trouble from the land side, as if danger was to be feared 
 from the people who professed allegiance to the flag which floated from 
 its staff. The usual barracks are here, large water tanks may be seen 
 and several warehouses. The cross on the spire of a small chapel shim- 
 mers in the sunlight. A mine descends from the castle to the seashore 
 through the entrance of the port, its issue being defended by a battery. 
 Troops may enter and leave the works by this means, protected from 
 the fire of an enemy. 
 
 The site of this fortification has always been regarded with prefer- 
 ence by officers detailed to construct defenses for the city. Originally 
 it was but a single battery, although as far back as 
 1584 the plan of the fortress was drawn and grad- MORR ^CASTLE 
 ually developed until reaching its present state of SAX CRISTOBAL. 
 perfection. When remodeled and armed with modem 
 rifles, behind which are stationed American artillerymen, it will be 
 impregnable. On the top of this castle is a revolving light rising to a 
 height of 170 feet above the level of the sea and sending its rays 
 eighteen miles across the waves of the Atlantic. 
 
 About one mile eastward from the harbor entrance and Morro 
 castle, still facing the sea and northeast of the city, is the castle of 
 San Cristobal. It defends San Juan on the land side, occupying nearly 
 the whole width of the islet from the bay to the ocean and pointing 
 its fire in all directions. Its structure is accommodated to the nature 
 of the ground, which is uneven. The castle has two large bomb-proof 
 barracks and everything necessary in the way of offices and store 
 rooms. Above the barracks is erected the Caballero fort, with twenty- 
 two cannon, whose fire dominates the city and its vicinity on land and 
 sea. Below the castle is the drill ground, with batteries directed 
 toward the sea, the land, and the drawbridge. 
 
 Three large ravelins follow the scheme of defense: San Carlos, 
 occupying the hilltop; Principe, on the slope of the Ceusta, and Prin- 
 cipal, where is the drawbridge of the second fosse, giving issue to
 
 368 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 
 
 counter trenches, the covered way and the field reached through the 
 gate of Santiago. For the most part all these fortifications are cut 
 from solid rock, and the tiers of batteries as viewed from the sea 
 give the impression of immense power, although we know that they 
 are inadequate in modern warfare. 
 
 San Cristobal castle is connected with Morro castle on the north 
 by a wall of modern construction, there having been nothing on that 
 side until the end of the past century, except a few batteries, owing 
 to the knowledge that the roughness of the coast rendered unneces- 
 sary any greater fortifications to prevent a landing. 
 
 Starting from the southern part of San Cristobal castle and fol- 
 lowing the edge of the bay a line of bulwarks is encountered, being 
 those of Santiago and San Pedro, the curtain being interrupted by 
 the Espana gate,* after which follow the bulwark of San Justo and 
 a gate of the same name, which forms an arch under the curtain. Then 
 conies the half-bulwarks of San Justo, the bulwark 
 DETAILS OF^THE of La Palma or gan Jos6j the p i at form of Concepcion, 
 
 FORTIFICATIONS. * the half-bulwark and fortress of Santa Catalina. 
 From here to the half-bulwark -of San Agustin to the 
 west is the gate of San Juan and then the platform of Santa Elena. 
 These fortifications were begun in 1630 and finished in 1641, but 
 not until 1771 were the castle of San Cristobal and the outworks built. 
 These latter consisted of rifle-pits and loop-holed batteries between 
 the town and the San Antonio bridge. At the head of the bridge 
 is situated the San Antonio fort. It is this bridge that connects 
 the island with the main land, and over which every one approaching 
 the city must pass. Guarded as it is, it would have been a most diffi- 
 cult task for infantry and cavalry to force an entrance into the city. 
 On the extreme east of the islet and near the San Antonio bridge, is 
 the small fort of San Jeronimo, which also defends the passage. 
 
 Between Morro castle and the opposite shore, thus virtually in the 
 middle of Hie entrance to the bay from the outer ocean, is a small fort 
 called Canuelo. It is oblong, well fortified, and by its position obliges 
 vessels attempting to force an entrance to the fort to pass actually 
 within rifle range of its fire and that of Morro castle. Formerly, iu
 
 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 369 
 
 case of war, a chain was thrown out between this and Morro castle 
 to close the entrance to the port. 
 
 San Juan island, on which the city is built, is shaped much like 
 an arm and a hand. The greatest width at the western extremity is 
 half a mile, and here, on the sloping hills, the govern- 
 
 m iiTi 
 
 uient buildings, as well as the business and residence 
 
 . . ISLET OF 
 
 districts, are established. When one drives east- gAK j^^ 
 ward, he finds the island continually narrowing until, 
 as he passes San Cristobal castle on the way to San Antonio bridge, 
 the beautiful boulevard is circumscribed between bay and sea, where 
 the total width of the island is less than one-quarter of a mile. 
 
 The public buildings of San Juan are in the midst of the city, near 
 the western end of the islet. They include the necessary institutions 
 of charity, the captain-general's palace and the government offices, the 
 barracks, hospitals, the cathedral, the town hall, the educational insti- 
 tute, the priests' seminary, and the courts. Here, too, are the principal 
 business streets, containing the banks, steamship offices, stores and 
 hotels. There are several small parks and plazas embellished with 
 statuary and tropical shrubbery. The theater is in the other end of 
 town, almost under the shadow of San Cristobal castle. 
 
 In spite of the traditional filth of cities under Spanish adminis- 
 tration, I am compelled to say that the business and residence section 
 of San Juan would entitle it to be called a marvelously clean city. I 
 know no city in the United States except Washington which compares 
 with it in the cleanliness of its streets. It is paved throughout with 
 vitrified brick and the paving is kept in the best condition. The cleanli- 
 ness must be credited in great degree to the hilliness of the city. The 
 streets are on such an incline that there is little 
 wheeled traffic to mar the paving, and the frequent URPRISING 
 showers of rain wash all the dirt off and down into OF THE STREETS. 
 the bay. In passing through the poorer quarters, 
 however, one gathers facts which compel the admission that, however 
 clean the streets may be, the inside of the houses is not kept as well. 
 An American would prefer the street in many cases. 
 
 San Juan is lighted by gas and electricity. There is good tele- 
 graph and telephone service throughout the city and the island cable
 
 370 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS. PEOPLE. 
 
 service to the rest of the world is excellent. Ice is manufactured in 
 sufficient quantity. The water supply is obtained entirely from 
 cisterns, but it seems to be wholesome and seldom responsible for 
 sickness. 
 
 Ponce, the largest city of Puerto Rico and the important port on 
 the south coast, is by no means as attractive or interesting a city as 
 San Juan. The population of Ponce is, perhaps, 40,000, although this 
 may be a generous estimate. The city is not one of the older settle- 
 ments of the island, but its port and the splendid agricultural country 
 tributary to it have stimulated its growth and commerce. The city 
 is not built near the sea, but three miles inland. At the port, where 
 all the import and export trade centers, are many of the more impor- 
 tant government offices. 
 
 Mayaguez, the principal city of the west coast, has a population 
 
 of 12,000 or 15,000 and is one of the most picturesque places in the 
 
 island. It is a clean, well-kept city, handsomely built 
 
 MAYA and modern. Its exports include sugar, coffee and 
 
 OTHER CITIES, fruits. It has hospitals, a market place, a theater 
 
 and a public library, besides various public buildings 
 
 that are highly creditable to the place. Mayaguez is connected with 
 
 Aguadilla by rail. 
 
 Arecibo is the principal town on the north coast, west of the 
 capital, with which it is connected by rail. It has a fine plaza and 
 cathedral, a town hall and a theater with many pretentious residences 
 and excellent stores. The territory tributary to Arecibo is exceedingly 
 fertile and easily accessible by the north coast railway, so that it is 
 certain to be the scene of investment and development under the Amer- 
 ican regime. 
 
 The most important town of the east coast is Ilumacao, which 
 does a considerable local trade and is the center of a rich agricultural 
 district. Guayama, on the south coast, which was the starting point 
 for General Brooke on his journey across the island, is an attractive 
 town with a fine cathedral and plaza. In the country behind Guayama 
 and in the mountains which bound the valley are large sugar planta- 
 tions and coffee plantations of great value. 
 
 There are ninny other towns of local importance and largo trade,
 
 PUERTO RICO, ITS CITIES AND ITS PEOPLE. 371 
 
 the names of which are hardly known to Americans, but which will 
 become familiar enough when more intimate commerce begins. In the 
 west Ilormigueros, San German and San Sebastian, Lares and Anasco 
 must be named. In the south Guanica and Yauco are certain to 
 develop. The interior of the island has many prosperous towns which 
 are the center of agricultural districts of great fertility. Among these 
 are Adjuntas and Utuado between Ponce and Are- 
 cibo, and Coamo, Aibonito, Cayey and Caguas on the INTERIOR TOWNS 
 military road between Ponce and San Juan. Baya- PUERTO RICO 
 mon, Rio Piedras and Carolina are centers of sugar 
 cultivation not far from San Juan. There is hardly one of these towns 
 that does not offer interesting novelties to the traveler or commercial 
 opportunities in its vicinity to the investor. 
 
 As to the characteristics of the Puertoriqueiians, we have some 
 interesting testimony from one who ought to be an authority. I have 
 a little text book of geography, written by a local educator, and used 
 in the schools of Puerto Rico. I find in it a paragraph in which he 
 answers his own question, "What is the character of the Puertorique- 
 iians?" 
 
 "His manner is affable and accommodating. His complexion usually 
 is slightly pale, his appearance agreeable, his figure graceful and his 
 bearing dignified yet alert. The Puertoriqueiians are honorable, valiant 
 and hospitable. Their constitution, like that of most inhabitants of 
 hot countries, is frail and subject to sickness, yet there are many indi- 
 viduals, particularly those who are engaged in physical labor, who 
 are strong, agile and robust." 
 
 Against such testimony as this it would be impossible to offer 
 denial. As a matter of fact, Sefior Soler has very well outlined the 
 facts as they are. Throughout the chapters of this 
 
 book are related incidents which mav be of service in >IBLE 
 
 .* AMERICANISM 
 
 estimating characteristics of the people. It is suffi- OP THE PEOPLE. 
 
 cient to say here that, like those of other countries, 
 
 they have mingled good and bad qualities in fair proportion. There 
 
 is, however, nothing about the people of this island which makes the 
 
 prospect of adapting them to American methods and manners a dubious 
 
 one.
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 How Tourists Will Journey About the Island to Visit the Attractions It Offers 
 How the Bailway System Was Designed and Built Business Methods of the 
 French Contractors The Country Beached by the Bailways Tram Lines and 
 Private Bailway Lines An Opportunity for American Capitalists and Engi- 
 neers The Great Military Boad Across the Island Remarkable Bridge and 
 Boad Construction by Spanish Engineers A Five-Mile Dash Down Hill 
 Sugar and Coffee Plantations An Avenue of Poinciana Primitive Roads 
 Through the Bemoter Parts of the Island The Methods of Spanish Drivers 
 Across Puerto Bico by Diligence. 
 
 FEW visitors to the island of Puerto Rico will be content to end 
 their journey with a glimpse of the island capital and the south 
 coast metropolis of Ponce. The scenery of the interior, with its 
 commanding beauty, and the attractions of island agriculture, will 
 draw all but the most casual tourist to explore for himself these varying 
 conditions. He will find available for his travel, first the great military 
 road which crosses the island, and next the railways which were 
 planned to encircle it. He will utilize the railways for his visit to the 
 coast cities, except where they are yet uncompleted. He will travel by 
 carriages over the military road, and it may be necessary for him even 
 to employ horses and ride instead of driving into some of the more 
 attractive mountain regions. The most desirable destinations are not 
 in every case the most easily accessible in Puerto Rico, any more than 
 they are in other countries. 
 
 In the reorganization of the railway system of Puerto Rico, some 
 American promoter and some American capitalist should find profit. 
 In the whole island there are not enough railway possibilities to make 
 fortunes for many rival manipulators, but a few will find a field await- 
 ing them, or one "Napoleon of finance" may discover 
 R \II W -1Y OP- 
 PORTUNITIFS FOR cven a Bonanza, Just now the service is in a thor- 
 
 AMERIC.OS. oughly disorganized condition, not likely to be rem- 
 edied until Americans become interested. The indi- 
 cations are that this time will not be long in coming. 
 
 372
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 373 
 
 Some years ago, this island, in its capacity as a province of Spain 
 not a colony realized that railways were essential to the development 
 of the country and its future prosperity. The military roads built by 
 the Spanish government gave fairly good communication across the 
 island, and through a region where the expense of construction of a 
 railway would be so great as to be almost prohibitive. It was planned, 
 therefore, to construct a line around the island, following the coast 
 approximately, and tapping the valleys by means of spur lines wherever 
 business demanded or the character of the country permitted. All the 
 largest cities were on the coast and thus would be connected with the 
 capital. The line consequently would combine the advantages of 
 largest business and easiest construction. It is a pity that time has not 
 served to complete the system as planned. 
 
 Bids were requested from capitalists in Europe and America for 
 the construction of a circum-island line under favorable conditions 
 offered by the government of Puerto Kico, but the responses were slow 
 to come and far from numerous. It is hinted that New York and Lon- 
 don and Frankfort and the other centers of railway-building capital 
 did not care for a concession which was to be complicated with Spanish 
 authority and might involve large expenses other than the ones to 
 which they were accustomed in other countries. However that may 
 be, but one bid came to Puerto Rico, that one from a French company, 
 with which the provincial authorities finally made terms. 
 
 There were two essential features in the charter as it was drawn 
 and accepted by both parties to the agreement. The railway company 
 promised to complete the line completely encircling the island within six 
 years, and the government gave to the company an 
 
 T< 1 T?T?\f i TJM~p\ 
 
 exclusive franchise for all railway construction in the TRY R vilWAY 
 island for ninety-nine years, and guaranteed interest CONSTRUCTION. 
 of eight per cent on the cost of construction. Neither 
 promise has been kept, and the efforts to settle are now in a state 
 of chaos. 
 
 After the usual fashion in such affairs, the French grantees or- 
 ganized two corporations in Paris, one company to hold the stock of 
 the road and operate it after completion, the other to construct it and be 
 paid in construction bonds. There is a distinct reminiscence of the
 
 374 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 Credit Mobilier in the matter. Work on the surveys for the whole line 
 was nearly ended before the crash came. Track laying progressed 
 fairly well at times, when the period of interest payment drew near, so 
 that it was worth while to do something for the sake of encouragement. 
 Three important portions of the line were completed and put into oper- 
 ation under the terms of the franchise. The first and longest is from 
 San Juan to Camuy, a few miles west of Arecibo on the north coast. In 
 its course of 100 kilometers it passes through eight stations, some of 
 them towns of importance. The country is as well developed and as 
 susceptible of cultivation as any in the island, while the transverse 
 valleys through which many mountain streams come down to the ocean 
 are rich, and would be tapped easily by wagon roads or railway 
 branches. There is one through train a day each way between San 
 Juan and Camuy, besides two w T hich cover part of the distance. From 
 Camuy westward there is a gap in the system, until Aguadilla on the 
 west coast is reached, w T here the line begins again. From this point 
 it extends southward to Hormigueros, passing through Mayaguez, 
 which is one of the most attractive and progressive 
 
 T 1 "VT r F'VT' OF 
 
 towns in the island, third in size. This line has a 
 
 PUERTO RICO, length of 58 kilometers. Then comes another hiatus 
 
 until Yauco is reached, on the south coast, where the 
 
 line begins which has its other terminus eastward at Ponce, a distance 
 
 of 35 kilometers. The Compania Francesa has built also a line from the 
 
 capital eastward to Carolina, 23 kilometers. 
 
 The three lines first named have been completed, equipped and set 
 to running within the time and in accordance with the terms of the 
 franchise, as distinct sections of the entire system. The provincial 
 government has accepted them under those terms and the government 
 obligation to guarantee the eight per cent interest on their cost of 
 construction has been recognized. The line running to Carolina, how- 
 ever, has not been accepted by the government as complying with the 
 time and some other conditions, and consequently is continued under 
 the operation of the construction company. 
 
 Ever since the first section of the line was accepted by the govern- 
 ment, the island treasury has been paying money annually to settle the 
 deficits and bring the interest earning up to eight per cent. At last
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 377 
 
 the time came when* the people protested that the railway company 
 had some obligations of its own, to build more line. Then the pay- 
 ment of the interest deficit stopped, with the result that the island treas- 
 ury is now about $60,000 behind in that item, and the French investors 
 are in trouble. However, their trouble had begun long before that. 
 Both the companies had failed, and were getting along very comfortably 
 with eight per cent on what they had invested. There was no govern- 
 ment minister of railways or any other high officer to watch their 
 claims. They would render accounts of the amount they had spent 
 and the volume of business done, and after a perfunctory auditing the 
 government would settle whatever seemed to be the deficit in earnings 
 at the rate named. 
 
 For the last year, the Compania Francesa has been threatened 
 with real difficulty. The charter long ago lapsed by its own terms, 
 but it has not been declared forfeited. The home government of Spain 
 retained a sufficient hold on the authority to require 
 
 pOT?T v FT r rT T T?'p 
 
 itself to be consulted on matters which might make *~5 ,f> TC 
 
 Ur CHAKJL.LK lo 
 
 complications with foreign capitalists. But at last THREATENED. 
 the province of Puerto Eico made a strenuous demand 
 on the mother country that a forfeiture be declared, in order that the 
 system might be turned over to some other capitalists, if any such could 
 be found under the existing circumstances, who would complete the 
 lines so badly needed. If the war had not come when it did, it is likely 
 that this request would have been granted, and the Spanish high courts 
 would have taken action. 
 
 The company which owns the railways makes no report for public 
 information, so that no statistics are available as to the volume of its 
 business. Cars of first, second and third class are run, with ticket 
 prices per kilometer respectively 5, 3 and 2 centavos, silver. Freight 
 rates are so high that transportation by ox-carts is found to be cheaper, 
 and all along the railway from the capital to Camuy, for instance, the 
 wagon road at the side of the railway is busy with the freighting of 
 crops and supplies when the trains are half empty. The reduction of 
 freight rates to a fair price would add this traffic to the railway com- 
 pany's business and stimulate trade at the same time. 
 
 All the lines are in fairly good shape as to road-bed and equip-
 
 378 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 ment, the one from Aguadilla to Hormigueros being the best. The 
 
 engines and cars are French, light of course, but sufficient for the light 
 
 grades and light traffic on a narrow gauge line. The gauge of the track 
 
 is one meter and twenty centimeters, or forty-seven and one-fourth 
 
 inches. Speed of trains is regulated by the government, and ranges' 
 
 from twelve to twenty kilometers an hour. The sta- 
 
 S2S5 tions are sufficient for the traffic, and altogether, so 
 
 SI) A -blv V lolUJs 
 
 OF RAILWAYS, far as the line extends, it may be considered a very 
 fair railway system for the little island. 
 
 In addition to the lines named, the same company has built a 
 branch from Anasco on the west coast, a station half-way between 
 Aguadilla and Hormigueros, to San Sebastian and Lares, 35 kilometers 
 northeast into the hills. It is of one-meter gauge. Then there is a local 
 tram line, operated by steam, of the game gauge, from San Juan to Rio 
 Piedras, through the popular suburb of the capital, Santurci. The 
 length of this line is eleven kilometers. Another tram of the same sort 
 starts at Catano, a suburb just across the harbor from San Juan, and 
 extends to Bayamon, ten kilometers distant. 
 
 I have been thus explicit to name every mile of railway in the 
 island open for public service, because the maps of Puerto Eico are 
 totally unreliable in this detail, and many of the descriptions equally so. 
 With a fine confidence in the promises of the construction syndicate, 
 every map issued since the charter for the circum-island line was 
 granted has shown it completed, and even the latest maps are follow- 
 ing the same blunder. 
 
 In addition to the ones I name, tram lines may have existed at one 
 time from the city of Ponce to the Playa, its port, and from Guayama 
 to Arroyo. At any rate, along the roads connecting those places, at in- 
 tervals one may see outcroppings of a vein which lead to the belief 
 that by excavation other rails might be found. It is not likely that 
 isolated rails would appear every half mile unless they were connected 
 with some others under the surface. Some of the large sugar "cen- 
 trals" have railway lines to bring cane to the mill, with locomotives 
 and freight cars in abundance, but they are not for general traffic. 
 
 Some one will have to reorganize and complete the railway around 
 the island of Puerto Rico.
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 379 
 
 The great military road across the island of Puerto Eico is a work 
 of the highest credit to the engineers who built it, but of very little 
 to the Spanish government. It was built for no love of the people, 
 not to assist the development of commerce and facili- 
 tate easy access to the sugar and coffee plantations, M THE FAMO 
 but only as a military affair in order that troops OF PUERTO RICO. 
 might be rushed to any point when insurrection was 
 threatened. This does not alter the fact that the road would be praised 
 by any traveler who journeyed over it, as one of the finest of such 
 works. There is a total of some 250 miles of government-built highway 
 in the island, of which two-thirds is included in the portions connect- 
 ing Ponce with Guayama, San Juan and Utuado. 
 
 The construction of this through such a mountain region has been 
 a work of great expense. There have been mountain passes and defiles 
 to thread, chasms to cross and marshes to fill. The construction of 
 these roads begins with the grading, which is done as carefully as for 
 a railway, although, of course, much heavier grades are permissible. 
 There is then put on a heavy layer of crushed rock and brick, which, 
 after having been well packed and rounded, is covered with a layer 
 of earth. This is well packed also and upon the whole is spread a 
 layer of ground limestone, which is pressed and rolled until it forms 
 almost a glossy surface. This makes a road perfect alike for car- 
 riages, footmen, cavalry, or bicycles. It is not muddy or slippery 
 in rainy weather nor is it dusty in dry seasons. No freshet is sufficient 
 to wash it out. 
 
 The bridges throughout the entire length of the road are of solid 
 masonry, built on arches to the full width of the highway and paved 
 over the bridges exactly like the road itself, so that one does not dis- 
 cover any difference in passing over such bridges. The roads are care- 
 fully ditched and drained on both sides. 
 
 All along these highways, at intervals of about SHELTERS FOR 
 six miles, stand substantial buildings erected for the E T !? LD Jg RS 
 purpose of sheltering the civil guards of the island, 
 the Spanish constabulary which has served as an island police force. 
 These houses are constructed of solid masonry, of uniform and suitable 
 architecture and of varying size, according to the demands likely to be
 
 380 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 made upon them. They are not post-houses for travelers, but are in- 
 tended entirely for government purposes. When soldiers were sent 
 across the island on account of threatened insurrection, these were the 
 barracks at which they stopped during their marches. 
 
 The first fine road which the American army found when it came 
 ashore in Puerto Rico was that from the Playa or port of Ponce to the 
 city itself. Here the way was crowded with traffic between the cities. 
 Thousands of American troops had advanced into the island by roads 
 extending beyond Ponce, and they had to be kept supplied from the 
 provisions and munitions of war landed at the port. Hundreds of 
 ox-carts traveled up and down that highway day after day, bearing 
 the heaviest traffic that could ever be concentrated on it, and yet the 
 road showed no signs of deterioration. More than anything else in the 
 island, it was the sight of this perfect road to welcome them, with the 
 excellent docks and town of the Playa at one end and the city of 
 Ponce at the other, that sent the American soldiers on their way 
 feeling that they had come to a favored isle. The first impression of 
 Puerto Rico was very different from the first impression they received 
 of Cuba. 
 
 One may cross the island from Ponce or Guayama to San Juan, 
 either by diligence or by public coaches. In times of peace coaches 
 leave each city daily, connecting at Cayey and exchanging passengers 
 and mails, making the trip between San Juan and Guayama in sixteen 
 hours and between San Juan and Ponce in twenty hours. These 
 coaches, however, carry so much local business from village to village 
 and run at such unpleasant hours, day and night, that 
 SPEED OF TRAVEL t]iey are by D() means the most comfortable method 
 
 \f 'KOSS 
 
 THE ISLAND ^ travel. By choice one should travel by diligence, 
 which is by no means expensive, thus gaining time, 
 comfort and the pleasure of a daylight trip. 
 
 The carriage for a journey from Ponce to San Juan would leave 
 the former city at five in the morning and at eight that night would 
 be in the capital. When it is remembered that a large part of the 
 way is up hill, through a mountainous country, this does not seem 
 bad driving for a distance of ninety-seven miles. Horses are changed 
 four or five times and sometimes of tenor during the distance, accord-
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 381 
 
 ing to the progress being made. The native drivers are altogether 
 merciless and lash their little horses constantly, so that the pace 
 is always a run. There is no slacking of speed up hill until the strength 
 of the team fails, and down hill it is a mad race to see whether horses 
 or carriage will arrive at the bottom first. 
 
 For those w r ho are not in so much of a hurry, the journey can be 
 pleasantly broken and extended to two or three days. The saving 
 of speed, however, does not do the horses any good, for they are urged 
 in the same way until the halting place is reached. The passenger is 
 brought to his destination that much sooner and has a longer time 
 to wait than if he were going to continue his journey on the same 
 day. 
 
 Our immediate party, which drove from Ponce to San Juan by 
 way of Guayama while yet the island was under Spanish dominion, 
 was cojnposed of Messrs. Root of the New York Sun, 
 Millard of the Herald, Dill of the Tribune, Thomp- A CAVALCADE 
 
 O~F W VII 
 
 son of the Associated Press, Walker of Harper's 
 
 Weekly, Mrs. White and myself. We left Ponce at 
 
 three in the afternoon of a beautiful August day, and at six o'clock 
 
 that night were at 'the beautiful Bafios de Coamo, twenty-six miles 
 
 away. 
 
 Strangely enough, the first mile or two of the road, within the 
 outlying parts of the city of Ponce, is abominably rough and ill-kept. 
 This is because it is in the city, and, consequently, not a part of the 
 Spanish royal road through the island. Once the city was left behind, 
 there was no further interruption in the perfect pleasure of the drive. 
 Without ever a jar from rut or pebble, the carriage whirled on, leaving 
 the kilometer posts behind so rapidly that one could hardly keep 
 account of them. Here was a stone arch bridge spanning a dashing 
 mountain stream of clearest water; now some children scattered to the 
 sides of the road in order to give us right of way through a little vil- 
 lage of a dozen native houses. The fields were fields of sugar-cane 
 in every direction, the plantation-house showing among the hills, some 
 distance from the road, with a picturesque lane leading back to it. A 
 grove of cocoa nut palms or royal palms shaded the plantation-house 
 and the sugar mill, with its tall brick chimney. Bananas, mangoes,
 
 382 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 and other tropical fruits surrounded every little cabin by the roadside. 
 The Spanish engineers had looked forward to the health of the 
 soldiers and the speed of their marching, even if they cared nothing 
 for their comfort. Mile after mile the road was shaded by a perfect 
 network of leaves from the trees on either side, whose branches met 
 in the middle above our heads, forming an umbrageous arch through 
 which the cavalcade sped on. There was color effect to add to the 
 other beauties of the scene. Rapid of growth and dense of shade, the 
 trees selected for this arch were the beautiful ones known in America, 
 when one can be seen, as the royal poinciana. In 
 ^ ie Spanish tropics the tree is variously know r n as 
 TREES. arbol flamboyant, flaming tree, or arbol de fuego, tree 
 
 of fire. It bears blossoms of the most gorgeous crim- 
 son, in such profusion that the tree itself seems a mass of flame, justi- 
 fying whatever name is selected for it. It would be impossible to 
 conceive a more picturesque avenue than one thus shaded. Song birds 
 \vere all about, and for a background to the whole scene, one could 
 choose to look back at the sea or forward to the mountains. 
 
 Dusk comes suddenly in the tropics, and it was beginning to darken 
 when we drew into the dooryard of the famous old hotel at the baths 
 of Coamo. 
 
 The mineral baths of Coamo are not immediately adjoining the 
 city of the same name nor even on the military road itself. Two or 
 three miles before reaching the city the carriages turn sharply to the 
 right along a little river, and, wandering down the slopes of a wood 
 road into the valley for two miles more, reach the most famous resort 
 in the island. For hundreds of years the healing properties of these 
 mineral springs have attracted visitors from a long distance. For 
 at least a century facilities have 1 been provided there for the wayfarers 
 who sought relief from their maladies and desired hospitality con- 
 venient to the springs. 
 
 The present hotel and bath-houses date back thirty or forty years, 
 but remain in excellent condition and offer comforts and even attrac- 
 tions to the most exacting tourist. The hotel, with its colony of stables, 
 servants' quarters and other necessary buildings, occupy the plateau 
 perhaps 100 feet above the river. The bed rooms, parlors and great
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 383 
 
 verandas, where guests make themselves comfortable in all weathers, 
 are on the second floor, above any threat of dampness from the ground 
 at night. All rooms open to the wide galleries or verandas and the 
 guest can take his choice between outdoor and indoor 
 parlors. The kitchen and dining-room are in a sep- XT THE H EL 
 arate building, connected with the main building by Q F co^o. 
 a covered way. 
 
 To reach the bath-houses one must walk perhaps 200 feet through 
 a series of roofed galleries, paved with stone, and gradually descending 
 by scores of stone steps worn smooth by years of use, almost to the 
 level of the river. At the bottom of this picturesque passage way is a 
 bath-house so well equipped that it would find favor in the most famous 
 watering-place of Europe. The floors and walls are of solid stone, kept 
 immaculately clean. The tubs are hewn out of single blocks of stone 
 and the larger bathing pools are tiled throughout. Such bath tubs 
 are never seen in America. They are four feet deep and of the same 
 width, and in some instances eight or ten feet long. Nearly every 
 room has two of these tubs, so that one may step immediately from a 
 bath of hot water to one of cold, both tubs being filled by the attend- 
 ant before the patron is called to the room. Every form of bath that 
 ingenuity has devised can be found here, the most modern and com- 
 plicated needle showers adjoining that most simple and primitive appli- 
 ance of all, the big tub. 
 
 The springs here utilized so successfully flow in considerable 
 volume and the supply has never failed in any season. The hot springs 
 have a temperature of 117 degrees Fahrenheit. They hold in solu- 
 tion sulphur, iron and lime and have proven of equal value for baths 
 and for internal use. They are of special service in skin diseases and 
 rheumatism. The service at the baths is thorough!} 7 satisfactory and 
 no one need fear any lapse of cleanliness or attention. 
 
 For fifty years Coamo Banos has been a favorite 
 resort throughout the summer, not only for the people RESORT. 
 of this island, but for those of Cuba, Haiti, Jamaica, 
 the Caribbees and even Venezuela and Guiana, who have 
 sought relief from their own hotter climate. The hotel is ar- 
 ranged to accommodate about one hundred guests, and summer after
 
 384 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 summer its capacity, lias been tested to the limit. If the same tide of 
 tourist travel from the south can be maintained there during the sum- 
 mers under the American regime, and a new stream turned* there from 
 the United States during the winters, it would seem as if the pro- 
 prietor had in his possession that most desirable thing, a business 
 whose season is all the year around. 
 
 The newspaper colony regretted that it was hardly possible to 
 take more than two baths each, between six o'clock in the evening and 
 eight o'clock in the morning, when the next stage of the journey was 
 begun. For the next day's drive we were compelled to abandon the 
 military road, for the unimproved country roads of the island. Between 
 Coamo and Aibonito were the mountains where Spanish forces still 
 held the passes, facing the American troops> who were resting in 
 their camp. It would have been a longer drive in miles, but an easier 
 one, to reach Guayama by way of Aibonito and Cayey, but we had 
 to yield to the exigencies of military law and not attempt a violation 
 of the protocol. 
 
 There is a country road extending southward from Coamo to Santa 
 Isabel, near the coast, and that was the route of the next stage of 
 our journey. The distance was ten miles and we had been taught to 
 dread it by the stories we had heard of its roughness. As a matter 
 of fact, it had been much more abused than its character deserved. 
 Those of us who had been accustomed to the country 
 roads of the United states at a11 seasons of the year 
 IN PUERTO RICO. saw n thing bad in this. The mud holes were no 
 worse than the mud holes on the main roads near 
 a prairie town of the central states. The hills were not as stony and 
 not as steep as those to which we were accustomed. This was in the 
 deep woods and the least cultivated part of the island, but the foliage 
 of flowers and trees gave novel scenery as we drove and the day was 
 a beautiful one. 
 
 The road direct from Ponce to Santa Isabel along the coast is much 
 of the same character and we could have driven it without great diffi- 
 culty. It was a matter of choice the day before to take the longer 
 route by way of Coamo Banos. / 
 
 From Santa Isabel to Guayama the road follows near the coast
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 385 
 
 all the way, a distance of some eighteen miles. There is but one town 
 worth naming in the distance, the village of Salinas. Salinas and 
 Santa Isabel are towns of, perhaps, 500 each, with no business houses 
 except the little shops and markets necessary to supply the daily wants 
 of the people. There is the inevitable church with the cross and 
 chimes, Santa Isabel being favored with a new one not yet completed, 
 work on which had been interrupted by the war. 
 
 The drive from Coamo to Guayama being considered a hard one, 
 we were treated to a change of horses after we passed Salinas. The 
 system by w r hich the change of horses was assured w r as a novel one to 
 me. We had come from Ponce to Coamo with a driver whose contract 
 ended at that point. At the baths we dealt with the hotel-keeper, 
 who agreed to put us into Guayama without difficultj^ in spite of 
 the roads, which he declared to be execrable. About two hours before 
 daylight he sent forward a team of fresh horses, in charge of a boy, 
 who rode a third, and they spent the morning leisurely reaching a 
 half-way point on the road. Then they were turned into a field to 
 graze and when we came along a few hours later, our team pretty 
 well spent, the change of horses was ready for us. 
 
 (YP 
 
 In times of peace post horses may sometimes be found 
 
 awaiting such demands, but it is quite a customary POST HORSES. 
 practice to conduct the business in this way. Those 
 of the party who did not stipulate so carefully for fresh horses on the 
 journey were taken through without a change, with a great deal of 
 discomfort resulting to themselves and the teams. 
 
 The week of waiting at Guayama was not an unpleasant one in 
 spite of the fact that we overcrowded the small hotels and had to 
 forage for ourselves in the shops and markets to supplement the hotel 
 bill of fare. It was a never-failing surprise to us in the hotels of the 
 smaller 'towns, that the people took no advantage of the excellent 
 fruit and vegetable supplies available. With little difficulty we were 
 able to obtain delicious melons and other fruits, which were never 
 served in the hotels unless we brought them. In addition, we found 
 French, Italian and German preserved fruits at the grocery stores, 
 and, altogether, were able to combine a very satisfactory bill of fare. 
 
 The drive from Guayama to Cayey was the slowest on record
 
 386 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 among the Puertoriqueuan drivers. General Brooke and his staff, 
 riding ahead, set the pace, beyond which none of us could go. March- 
 ing cavalry finds a steady walk quite rapid enough for the horses, and 
 so our drivers for the first time in their lives found no opportunity 
 to use the whip. Inasmuch as no noonday halt was expected, the 
 newspaper contingent carried its own provisions for the journey and 
 feasted on bacon sandwiches, cheese and cantaloupe, washed down with 
 water from the cold mountain springs. 
 
 A few of the stone bridges through the mountains had been partly 
 dismantled by the retreating Spaniards, by the removal of the key- 
 stones from the arches. The fact that they had done no more to destroy 
 the highway seemed to prove that they had a sentimental pride in the 
 beautiful road and did not care to wreck it even when they were aban- 
 doning the island. There were a score of places where 
 
 THTF THTTTTATiY 
 
 nr, juiniAxv ^ Q ^pj^ggg spanned great chasms or the road was 
 
 THE MOUNTAINS, built on a shelf hewn out of the side of a precipice, 
 
 where a charge of dynamite would have so destroyed 
 
 it as to make an interruption of days necessary before any progress 
 
 could be made. At such places the possibilities of defense against an 
 
 American advance were beyond estimate. As it was, the squad of 
 
 engineers ahead of our party required but a few moments to bridge 
 
 the little gaps left where arches were broken, so that there was no 
 
 perceptible delay. 
 
 From Guayama to the highest point in the pass through the 
 mountains, the road winds upward through a splendid valley and 
 along the slopes of the mountain peak caled El Torito. For miles it 
 is possible to look back through the valley to the sea, the view com- 
 prehending one of the most beautiful tropical landscapes imaginable. 
 Sugar plantations in the lowlands and coffee plantations on the hill- 
 sides show a high state of cultivation, all beautified by tropical foliage 
 and roofed by the tropical sky. 
 
 After passing the crest of the range and starting 
 A VIEW ACROSS on tll descent into the cen tral valley of the island, 
 THE CENTRAL ... 
 
 VALLEY was P ossi ble i r the cavalry squad and General 
 
 Brooke to make better speed and we looked forward 
 to increasing our own pace. By a mischance of the road, however, and
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 387 
 
 an ill-timed yielding of the right of way to some wagons of the 
 army train, our carriages found themselves pocketed with a dozen of 
 the six-mule teams and ponderous wagons ahead of us. Mile after 
 mile we crawled along at what seemed a snail's pace, the road follow- 
 ing the very edge of the precipices, w T ith no space to pass on either 
 side. A thousand feet below and miles away, we could see the town 
 of Cayey in a smiling valley given over to sugar plantations. Across 
 the valley rose the second range of mountains, a lesser chain which 
 separates from the main ridge, and far away beyond these was a 
 glimpse of the blue north Atlantic ocean. 
 
 At last a little plateau grown up to small shrubbery gave the road 
 more w T idth and we made haste to pass the wagons. By this time the 
 cavalry had left us four miles behind and almost had reached the 
 valley w r hich lay far below, with only two or three miles separating 
 the squad from its prospective triumphal entry into Cayey. We must 
 not miss the sight. All restraint was removed from the impatient 
 drivers. The horses were fresh after their slow journey. The road 
 was perfect without an irregularity sufficient even to jar the wheels. 
 We could not see more than fifty yards ahead on the tortuous high- 
 way winding down the mountain side, but we must get to the bottom. 
 
 Down went the lashes and then began the maddest race that the 
 hills of Puerto Rico ever saw. There are traditions of such driving 
 by the mountain stage-drivers of our own west, but I 
 am unable to believe that there was ever a wilder 
 dash for five miles down hill than this. When we DOWN HILL. 
 reached the foot of the long descent and caught the 
 cavalry just in time to join them in the procession, we looked at one 
 another in exhilaration, but frankly admitting that we were glad to 
 be safe on the level. 
 
 The march from Cayey to Caguas crossed the interior valley, which 
 includes the northern half of the province of Guayama, through a 
 succession of highly cultivated sugar plantations of the most pro- 
 ductive character. There was picturesque scenery to insure the day's 
 pleasure, but no such mountains as those between Guayama and Cayey. 
 
 We reached Caguas about 2:30 in the afternoon and found it a 
 larger place than Cayey, with a beautiful plaza, in which Spanish
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 troops were swarming. Two thousand were quartered in the barracks 
 of this city. The hotels of Caguas proved to be the worst we had found 
 in the island and the smallest. For himself and his staff officers, 
 General Brooke obtained a fine private residence for headquarters, 
 while his cavalry escort and arjny train went into camp near the city. 
 It remained for the newspaper contingent to find quarters for them- 
 selves. One hotel accommodated three of the men and then over- 
 flowed. Mrs. White and I found quarters in a servants' room, with 
 two cots. Then, as a special concession, the pro- 
 prietor offered her a cot in a room with his wife, in 
 AT CAGUAS. order that the rest of us might all sleep on the stone 
 floor of the little room. One of our men was sick 
 with malarial fever contracted in Ponce and it seemed imperative that 
 better accommodations be found. Four hours of daylight remained 
 and we decided that the flesh-pots of the capital, twenty-six miles aw r ay, 
 would suit us all better, if we could reach them. 
 
 It was a delicate matter to suggest such a thing as preceding 
 the commanding general through the enemy's country into the enemy's 
 capital. It was delegated to me to broach the subject, with a stipula- 
 tion that if by so doing I lost favor with General Brooke, thereby de- 
 stroying my sources of information, my colleagues would divide with 
 me everything that came to them, so that my work would not suffer- 
 thereby. Before the choice was made I attempted to convince them 
 that any one could execute such an errand better than myself, but 
 as each one took exactly the same position it was finally decided that 
 I should offer myself for a victim to possible military displeasure. 
 
 It was indeed suggested that the discomforts which Mrs. White 
 would undergo should be used as an argument with General Brooke, 
 but that was the one argument impossible for me to use. It was Mrs. 
 White's pride throughout all of her experiences, alike in Cuba and 
 Puerto Uico, that no one had ever been able to suggest that she was 
 a handicap in any undertaking. She took the difficulties with the 
 same spirit that others took them, recognizing the unusual privilege 
 she had to witness the operations of war. She would have resented 
 promptly the use of her presence as an argument why special privilege 
 should be granted. As a matter of fact, we realized quite well that
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 389 
 
 to offer such a plea might properly draw the query from General 
 Brooke why she was there at all, if she was to cumber the movements 
 of himself and the correspondents. 
 
 I found the commanding' general dining with his staff and put 
 the question bluntly to him, if it would be permissible, now that we 
 had passed the enemy's advance line and were within their territory, 
 for the newspaper contingent to precede him on the 
 way. I explained that no accommodations for all of A C ? f ^ OM 
 
 . . THE COMMAND* 
 
 us were available in town, even of the most primitive J^Q GENERAL. 
 sort, and that Mr. Millard's sickness demanded better 
 shelter than we could find. We do not forget his courtesy in the reply. 
 Without hesitation he said, "By all means go to where you can be 
 most comfortable. If you can get horses on such short notice, go ahead 
 until you find a place where you can get proper shelter. I don't want 
 you to undergo any more discomfort than is necessary, after all you 
 have seen in the Santiago campaign." 
 
 I bolted down stairs to the little group of correspondents wait- 
 ing anxiously for the verdict. The news was reassuring. In ten min- 
 utes we had our drivers searching for horses and by four o'clock our 
 carriages were loaded again and we were starting on the last stage 
 of the journey. We knew, if General Brooke did not, that the phrase- 
 ology of his permission meant that we must reach the capital that 
 night, for there was no place which would serve for shelter until we 
 reached the city. 
 
 The journey began hopefully enough, with a five-mile dash through 
 the cane-fields. The military road was perfect here, as it had been 
 throughout the earlier portion of the trip. Then we came into a 
 country of hills and my team began to fag in spite of the energies of the 
 driver. It was evident that they had not been fresh when we started. 
 We had been leading the procession of three carriages until that time. 
 This position was chosen for me by my companions, because no one 
 knew what sort of a reception we might meet from the Spanish 
 soldiery along the road, and the others of the party had no knowledge 
 of the Spanish language. 
 
 The threat of early darkness began to trouble us and it was evi- 
 dent that our team could not take us into the capital in many hours.
 
 390 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 We drew to one side of the road and told the others to go ahead. 
 They were reluctant to leave us thus, abandoned near nightfall in the 
 heart of the enemy's country, but there was no help 
 
 for lt We waved g od - bv to them and saw them 
 EXPERIENCE disappear down the road among the trees. Our prog- 
 ress continued slowly for several miles farther, during 
 which we did not see a single soldier. Then at the top of a long hill, in 
 spite of our protests, the driver lashed his horses into a run and we 
 went careening down the slope. At the bottom was the longest bridge 
 in Puerto Rico, a stone-arched structure perhaps 300 feet in length, 
 spanning a stream which wandered through the valley nearly a hun- 
 dred feet below. This splendid piece of masonry, the most difficult of 
 all the military road, was built many years ago and remains in perfect 
 condition. In the middle of the bridge the team came to a dead halt, 
 unable to stagger another step. 
 
 "Muy malado, muy infermo," said the driver, shrugging his shoul- 
 ders, "very bad, very sick." He took the harness off the horses, led 
 them to the end of the bridge, opened a convenient gate that led into 
 the neighboring field and turned them out to graze. We sat on the 
 rail of the bridge and looked into the stream below. 
 
 After awhile a little boy came along and the driver gave him some 
 instructions, which started him up the road in the direction we had 
 been traveling. 
 
 More time passed and we saw two Spanish soldiers coming toward 
 us on the road. They came to the middle of the bridge and halted 
 to question us. One was a corporal, the other a 
 P rivate - Thev were fine > bi S fellows, armed with 
 BE HARMLESS. Mausers, and apparently fine soldiers. They ques- 
 tioned us closely, extracting no information what- 
 ever, for we assumed to be ignorant of a single word of Spanish. We 
 shrugged our shoulders, smiled, looked pleasant and puzzled, but could 
 answer nothing. The driver was evidently scared. The corporal 
 wanted to know who we were, why we were there, and where we were 
 going. He wanted to know when the American general was coming. 
 We were unable to tell him anything. 
 
 Finally, Mrs. White noticed that the soldier had a bandage around
 
 TRAVEL IN PUERTO RICO. 391 
 
 his right hand and that his hand was badly swollen. She motioned 
 a question and he unwrapped it, showing a very bad bayonet wound. 
 It was dressed with some green leaves and no other attention had been 
 given it. Mrs. White sought her modest stock of simple remedies, 
 dressed the wound with witch hazel, bound it in clean linen, and gave 
 him the remaining portion of the liniment. There was no further 
 trouble. They bowed their thanks, expressed their gratitude with the 
 utmost politeness and went on their way. 
 
 Strangely enough, we heard of this little incident afterward in San 
 Juan. It was circulated there as a subject of interest for gossip among 
 the Spanish forces, and we were told that the soldiers were exceed- 
 ingly grateful, saying that no Spanish woman would have done for 
 them what the American did. 
 
 After a wait of two hours on this lonesome bridge, our driver 
 declared his horses sufficiently recovered to continue. We made slow 
 progress through the dusk, until at last a mile or two before reaching 
 Rio Piedras the youngster who had gone ahead long 
 before met us with a fresh team of horses. To ex- 
 change required but a few moments. The exhausted j?RESH HORSES. 
 team, according to the practice of drivers, w r as turned 
 into the adjacent field to graze until their master should pick them 
 up on his return journey a day or two later. It was but a short drive 
 then to Rio Piedras. We stopped at a little hotel to inquire if our 
 companions had gone on to the capital, and, finding no word left for 
 us, we continued toward our destination. 
 
 The road was level nearly all the way, so that, although darkness 
 had fallen, there was no cessation of our speed. The nine miles were 
 covered very rapidly and it was only nine o'clock when we clattered 
 along the paved streets of the city in a sudden shower of rain and 
 drew up at the door of Hotel Inglaterra. Prompt inquiry at the hotel 
 office developed two important facts: dinner was not ended and our 
 friends had reserved a room for us. It was the end of our journey across 
 Huerto Rico.
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 Similar Agricultural Conditions in All Our Newly Annexed Islands The Institution 
 of the Sugar "Central" A Scotchman in Puerto Rico Heavy Investments by 
 London Financiers How the "Central" Deals with Each Farmer Scientific 
 Sugar Cultivation as Contrasted with More Primitive Methods Plantation 
 Sugar Mills of the West Indies The Home of a Sugar Planter Wages of Un- 
 skilled Laborers in Puerto Rico How the Laborers Live and Work. 
 
 IT MAY simplify the problems of colonial government for the United 
 States to some extent, that all of our experiments are to be tried 
 in island groups of similar climate and agricultural conditions and 
 approximately the same latitude. What one learns about sugar or 
 coffee or tobacco or minor agricultural products of the tropics in one 
 island, may therefore apply with almost equal accuracy to the others, 
 except as modified by peculiar local conditions which must be noted 
 in their proper place. Consequently, although this chapter relates 
 specifically to the cultivation of cane sugar in Puerto Rico, most of 
 the essential facts may be transferred to apply to the same industry 
 in Cuba and the Hawaiian islands, in each of which the cultivation of 
 sugar is the principal industry, as it is in Puerto Rico, and even the 
 Philippines, where the same industry is by no means a minor one. In 
 the chapters on agriculture in the Philippine islands, already I have 
 called attention to the matter following in these pages, and again in 
 the chapter on the same industry in Cuba and the Hawaiian islands, 
 I shall refer back to this chapter for detailed information upon the 
 cultivation and marketing of cane sugar. 
 
 In the modern system of sugar cultivation in this island, where 
 that is the greatest of crops, the "central," has been an important 
 factor, and is becoming more important all the time. It is the great 
 
 392
 
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 ^S v. .5 
 
 H 2 1 
 
 s M 
 
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 [r, c 'H 
 
 W > 
 
 PQ ^ 
 
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 < s 
 
 h 5 
 
 O o 2 
 
 ^ 
 
 C J 
 
 "h -r
 
 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. 395 
 
 mill for grinding cane, owned by a concern which makes that function 
 its specialty, relieving the grower from the necessity of grinding his 
 own product. Prepared for the work of a whole re- 
 
 ^'fTNTBAT V 
 
 gion instead of a single plantation, it is possible for FOR GRINDING 
 such an institution to take advantage of every im- SUGAR-CANE. 
 provement in machinery and equip the mill with the 
 most perfect appliances. Scientists can be employed to study for 
 improved methods of extracting the juice from the cane with greatest 
 rapidity and most completely, and then of bringing it into the best 
 condition for the various processes that precede shipment to the re- 
 fineries. Where the central has been introduced, it has won favor 
 and profit for all concerned. Where it is known, its friends see no more 
 need of argument for it than does the owner of a flour mill in our 
 wheat regions. 
 
 I have had the pleasure of an acquaintance with Mr. W. S. Marr 
 of Puerto Rico, a Scotchman who has been for a few years the general 
 manager of the Central de Canovanas, the largest sugar factory in 
 the island. It is not far from Carolina, some twenty miles east of the 
 capital, on the north side of the island, and in one of the best sugar 
 countries of Puerto Rico. Mr. Marr has been good enough to give me 
 some of the essential facts about that enterprise and the central as a 
 general proposition, which will make important information for any- 
 one who looks toward sugar investments here. His information, with 
 that of other specialists in sugar whom I have questioned, is of the 
 highest authority on the local conditions to be met in this island. 
 
 The Central de Canovanas is owned by the Colonial Sugar com- 
 pany of London, or, rather, by an inner corporation made up of mem- 
 bers of that great concern. The Colonial company is 
 known throughout the sugar islands of the West 
 Indies, large and small alike, as well as in Demerara COMPANY. 
 or British Guiana. Its interests sweep in a great 
 circle through Cuba, Santo Domingo, Puerto Rico, the Windward and 
 Leeward islands, all the way to Trinidad and then into the continental 
 cane fields of South America. It was not to be expected that it would 
 neglect such a rich opening as Puerto Rico. 
 
 The Central de Canovanas was built bv the investment of local
 
 396 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 capital, stimulated by the energy of some Puertoriquenans who had 
 lived in the United States, and by some energetic Americans who had 
 moved to this island. The investment was a large one and the profits 
 were not well husbanded in the beginning, so that the time came when 
 a debt 'had to be met and the Colonial company took the property into 
 its own care for administration. The equity of the original owners 
 is not wiped out, but it is not in their hands at present, the English 
 company having a sufficient amount of the stock to control it. 
 
 The capacity of grinding in such a mill is about twenty-five tons 
 of cane an hour, or, more specifically, the product of 3,500 acres. 
 Up to the present time, the acreage of the plantations adjacent to the 
 mill, which depend upon it for their grinding, is but 2,000, so that the 
 mill has not had to run to its full capacity except at times of special 
 haste. A considerable increase in the acreage was expected within the 
 last two years, but the unusually high price of cattle intervened to 
 stop it. A large amount of pasture land which was expected to be 
 turned into cane fields, became more valuable in its present form, and 
 so was not planted to sugar cane. If shifting values change this condi- 
 tion or new areas are opened to cultivation in the neighborhood of 
 the central, undoubtedly it will have all the work to do that it can 
 accomplish. 
 
 The company buys the sugar cane outright, paying for it on the 
 fifteenth and thirtieth of each month according to the average price 
 of sugar in the San Juan market for the fifteen days preceding. The 
 farmer hauls his cane to the door of the central, has it weighed, and 
 on the day of payment gets his money without any further concern. 
 
 Almost all authorities in Puerto Rico agree that all interests are 
 served by the separation of grinding from the growing of the crop. 
 The farmer gets more for his cane when he sells it 
 to the central than he would if he ground it himself. 
 PROFIT. By its improved methods and perfected machinery, 
 
 the central gets so much more out of the cane that it 
 is able to pay the farmer more than he would get otherwise, and still 
 make a large profit for its own stockholders, when properly admin- 
 istered and handling such large quantities of cane. Centralization 
 proves its economy here as it does in industries at home. Further-
 
 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. 397 
 
 more, the farmer can raise more cane upon a given acreage when his 
 attention is concentrated on that one branch of the industry than 
 he can when diverted first to the running of a small mill for the grind- 
 ing of his own crop and then to the marketing of it to best advantage. 
 
 Scientific Sugar Cultivation. 
 
 In the whole island there are but four or five centrals of any 
 consequence, that of Canovanas being much the largest and best 
 equipped. In it are employed the best sugar experts to be obtained, 
 the chemists being men of highest training and education, to say noth- 
 ing of salaries. Their studies are productive of constant improvement 
 and increase of sugar obtained from a given amount of cane. Their 
 tests are all absolute, by chemical rule and formula, no "rule of thumb" 
 being countenanced. In this field of labor here, no less than iu Hawaii 
 and Cuba, many a young American just from the universities will 
 find an opportunity within the next few years to prove that he is a 
 practical chemist, and, if he becomes a sugar expert, to earn a large 
 salar}\ Such centrals are going to multiply rapidly. 
 
 On the hundreds of plantations where sugar mills are run for the 
 grinding of their own crop, and even in some of the smaller centrals, 
 one does not find such a scientific system of manipu- 
 lation. As Mr. Marr puts it, "The foreman watches B J?SJS l S5w 
 
 J iiti J L ILL r KUJl 
 
 the color and the flow and the crystallization till SUGAR-CASE. 
 
 things seem right, and then the next process is 
 
 begun. Our results show that where scientifically correct methods are 
 
 CJ V 
 
 employed, the product is enough larger and enough better to pay well. 
 It is this condition that will make plantation mills obsolete and drive 
 the grinding into the centrals when the latter are in every community 
 where sugar is raised." 
 
 In the Central cle Canovanas, all the employes and hands are 
 Puertoriquenans except the chief engineer, who is a Scotchman. The 
 company owns and operates about twenty miles of railway, the lines 
 radiating from the factory into the adjacent plantations, for the pur- 
 pose of hauling the cane to be ground. The tracks wander in and out 
 among the cane fields just as they do in the great Ewa plantation near
 
 398 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 Pearl Harbor in the Hawaiian islands, and the scene is much the same. 
 But here in Puerto Rico all the locomotives are run by native engineers 
 and firemen, as is the case on the passenger railways of the island. 
 They seem quite competent to do the work, have few accidents, and 
 under the supervision of the chief engineer are able to repair their loco- 
 motives almost as handily as an American. 
 
 In going about the island, one finds the sugar mills of the planta- 
 tions everywhere in sight. Usually they stand with the other houses 
 
 and sheds of the little realm of the sugar baron, a 
 
 H 0J! l ? ME few hundred yards from the highway, the lane lead- 
 
 SUGAR BARON, ing to them winding through a field of waving cane, 
 
 and ending in a grove of royal palms or pomciana or 
 some other tropic tree. From the field or factory or some place comes 
 a whiff of sweetness to the nostrils that reminds one of the breeze from 
 a candy factory. The air is impregnated with sugar. The big brick 
 chimney of the mill towers above the trees and roofs, not as pictur- 
 esque as the old windmills that serve a similar purpose in Barbados 
 and the other islands of the Caribbees, but perhaps more utilitarian. 
 The little houses of the plantation hands are at a distance from the 
 great house of the magnate, usually at the other side of the factory. 
 The big houses have been quiet of late. Those of them owned by 
 Spanish citizens, or many of them, have been empty while their owners 
 were seeking pleasure in San Sebastian or some other Spanish resort, 
 in preference to a possible blockade with discomforts in Puerto Eico. 
 They left in ship-loads during the few months just prior to the war. 
 But the places are there, many of them great, rambling structures of 
 Spanish architecture, modified by island conditions, broad verandahs 
 all about, low roofed, with tiles of red to keep the house cool and vines 
 over all. These houses are not barren of comfort. They are lightly 
 furnished as they should be, but easy rockers abound, hammocks are 
 there, and a piano is sure to be found. In front of the house the shade 
 oomes from the arbol flamboyant, the royal palm, the cocoanut palm, 
 or any one of half a dozen almost as beautiful. In the house yard are 
 bananas, cocoanuts, oranges, limes, pineapples, mangoes, and a dozen 
 other fruits whose names would be strange, while the kitchen garden 
 will raise delicious vegetables and add melons to the list of fruits,
 
 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. 399 
 
 With a winter climate as perfect as could be imagined, and a summer 
 far pleasanter than that of our northern prairie States, surely one could 
 imagine things less pleasant than to be a sugar baron in Puerto Rico. 
 Wages of the unskilled laborers employed in the canefields of 
 Puerto Rico unskilled at any rate except for the knack of handling 
 the machete and doing the simple work of the field- 
 
 have been from 50 to 63 centavos a day, varying with THE 
 
 the demand for labor, the strength of the laborer and LABORERS. 
 the location of the plantation. Mr. Marr, the Scotch 
 manager of the Central de Canovanas, tells me that wages never have 
 fluctuated with the fluctuations of the rate of foreign exchange, nor 
 has the manner of living practiced on the ^plantations varied from the 
 same cause. The exception to this has been in the cost of rice, which 
 is a staple food of the laborers and largely imported. As exchange 
 became higher, the price of rice rose and the ability of the laborer to 
 purchase it diminished. Just about enough corn is raised for the local 
 demands, some years producing enough for export to Cuba. This 
 staple food therefore has fluctuated but little. The cotton goods, from 
 which the plantation laborers make their clothes, have to be imported 
 and vary slightly in cost with the fluctuations of exchange. But they 
 do not wear many clothes, and if cotton becomes too expensive, it is 
 not a great hardship in this climate for these people to economize 
 rigidly in its use. 
 
 The regular wage-day on the plantations is at the end of the week, 
 but laborers are permitted to draw their earnings daily if they choose. 
 They are improvident in the extreme, and often have to obtain advance 
 orders on the stores when they come to work in the morning, in order 
 to get food for the same day's breakfast, breakfast meaning here, as in 
 other Spanish countries, the meal just before midday. The early cup 
 of coffee answers till that time. The work day is 
 
 SHORT HOURS 
 
 only seven or eight hours long, and, measured by the 
 
 energy of the man, the demands of his house and CHEAP LABOR. 
 table and the faithfulness with which he skips a day 
 whenever one of the multitudinous holidays and church days gives him 
 a chance, the rate of wages is probably enough. "Cheap labor" really
 
 400 THE SUGAR INDUSTRY IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 is not cheap according to its productiveness, any more than it is in 
 other countries where similar conditions exist, Mexico for instance. 
 
 Mr. Marr has some ideas on the local labor problem which may 
 sound strange at home. 
 
 "The Puertoriquenans could make more money," he says, "if the 
 whole family would work in the field. That is the practice in the 
 English islands of the West Indies, among negro and coolie labor 
 alike. Father and mother and son and daughter work side by side on 
 the plantations. But here the women will hardly go into the fields at 
 all. A laborer's wife does hardly anything but her household duties, 
 and she teaches her daughter the same thing, and even the sons do not 
 go to work till they are almost grown. As a rule, 
 th e blacker the man, the better the laborer. This is 
 LIVE. true except as to the English negroes who are here, 
 
 from Demerara and the Caribbees, they being just 
 about the worst labor we have. But there is no doubt that planta- 
 tion labor here needs the black infusion in it to be effective. What 
 the fact would be if we had to deal with white labor of some other 
 race than Spanish, I am unable to say, for there are none such here. 
 But we don't care for much white Spanish blood in our hands." 
 
 Plantation laborers on the sugar estates do not have barracks or 
 houses furnished them on the place, but live wherever they like. Some- 
 times the owner of the estate sets aside a bit of land where the laborer 
 may build a house and plant a little garden patch. The house always 
 belongs to the hand, however, even though he may vacate it and move 
 to the next plantation. Such titles are not valuable enough to worry 
 about, as the houses under such circumstances are apt to be but a 
 frame of poles with a thatch and walls of wattle. When a man builds 
 a better house on a sugar estate, he is considered one of the faithful 
 retainers, and a fixture.
 
 CHAPTER XXVIL 
 
 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 
 
 Book Stores and Publishing Houses of Puerto Rico Spanish Translations of Amer- 
 ican Novels Local Production of Literature by Island Authors The Public 
 Library of San Juan What a Geographer of Puerto Bico Thinks of His Island 
 and His Fellow-Citizens The Theaters of Ponce and San Juan American En- 
 terprise Not Far Behind the American Army "Uncle Tom's Cabin" in Span- 
 ish The Hotels of Puerto Bico The Booms and the Food Two Meals a Day 
 Spanish Cooking and Island Markets Inns in the Country Villages The Tour- 
 ist Besort of Coamo Banos. 
 
 THE printing offices and book shops of Puerto Eico rather sur- 
 prised me by their excellence, after I had been disappointed in 
 the newspapers. Senor Otero of Ponce apologized for his 
 meager stock of books in English, with the explanation that the officers 
 and men of the American army had bought almost everything he had. 
 But he was the agent for the New York house of the Appletons, he 
 continued, and his stock would be replenished by the first steamer. 
 As it was, several well-known books were on the shelves, and if one 
 wanted to read Spanish the selection was a large one. I found a very 
 good edition of "El Prisionero de Zenda," by "Antonio" Hope, and it 
 was in this same Bazar Otero that Richard Harding Davis and Stephen 
 Crane were confronted upon their arrival with posters advertising 
 "Soldiers of Fortune" and "The Bed Badge of Courage." 
 
 Book Shops of San Juan. 
 
 In San Juan, the capital, there are at least three or four book 
 and stationery stores of note which are more than creditable to the 
 place. They are connected with printing and publishing concerns in 
 most cases. They carry stocks of imported goods from Madrid, Barce- 
 lona and Paris, most of the books being in Spanish or French. All of 
 
 401
 
 402 LITERATURE, TH DRAMA, AMD THE HOTELS. 
 
 the classics of Spain and France are carried in both languages 'and 
 
 the modern French novel occupies a prominent place on the shelves. 
 
 The novels of Hugo and Dumas are very popular in 
 
 raESCH NOVELS the island. Few books in Italian are sold, but the 
 
 A Kr. 
 
 POPULAR. Italian classics are carried in Spanish and in French 
 translations. Beautiful editions of the "Divina Corn- 
 media" of Dante were for sale in either language, but the translations 
 were in prose instead of verse. No American poets appeared in the 
 stores, but Byron's popularity was evidenced by the multitude of his 
 works on sale. "Don Juan" seemed to be the favorite, partly, no doubt, 
 because of its Spanish subject and partly because of its literary pun- 
 gency a favorite quality among Spanish-Americans as among the 
 Spanish themselves. The poem suffered, however, like that of Dante, 
 by not having the metrical translation, and it is hard to understand 
 its attractions in this form. German literature was confined to the 
 works of Schiller and Goethe and the booksellers said that not many 
 of those were sold. 
 
 Of course the larger part of the stock on the book shelves is made 
 up of the work of Spanish writers, classic and modern. The people 
 read Cervantes with as much avidity as if he were satirizing the faults 
 of others instead of their own. 
 
 Local production of literature has taken utilitarian forms in most 
 part, although there has been some modest fiction and a little credit- 
 able verse written. Historical monographs relating to the island are 
 numerous and political pamphlets of various sorts even exceed them 
 in number. The historian of Puerto Rico, in the future, will find much 
 valuable matter in the little books that have issued from obscure 
 presses throughout the island. The public library of San Juan has a 
 collection which will be of value to many a student. 
 ^ RI ^ L It contains rare works on old Spanish voyages, early 
 
 JjIIJKAJx i 
 
 OF SAN JUAN, maps of the West Indies, showing the progress of dis- 
 covery, manuscripts and documents that will gladden 
 the heart of bookmen, and old plates and engravings of equal interest. 
 Some of these things may have decayed from inattention, but not from 
 careless use, for they have been studied but little. The book shops and
 
 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 403 
 
 the private libraries, like the public library of San Juan, may be de- 
 pended upon to repay research. 
 
 Among the books written and published in Puerto Rico, the text 
 books used in the island schools are notable. Many of these all, in 
 fact, of the primary and intermediate grades are local productions. 
 One of that sort is before me as I write, "Elementos de Cosmographia 
 y Geographia Particular de la Isla de Puerto Rico." It w r as written 
 by Felipe Janer y Soler, who is a bachelor of arts and an upper pro- 
 fessor in the schools, so the title page explains. This edition, the 
 second, was printed in San Juan in 1890, the work having been decreed 
 a text book for the schools of the province by a governmental decree 
 seven years earlier. The book gained a medal at the Paris exposition 
 of 1889. 
 
 This little book of less than a hundred pages, about the size of an 
 American primer, contains some excellent information about the 
 island as well as some very entertaining things. Its first part is de- 
 voted to geometrical definitions, "indispensable for the study of cos- 
 mography." Then comes the part devoted to definitions in astronomy, 
 which gives almost as much attention to the heavens as the rest of 
 the book does to the earth. Finally, after several pages devoted to 
 general geographical definitions and the grand divisions of the sub- 
 ject, there comes an excellent little map of Puerto Rico and the por- 
 tions of the work devoted to the island itself. 
 
 We are informed that Puerto Rico was discovered by "the cele- 
 brated Genoese mariner, Don Cristobal Colon, aided by their Cath- 
 olic majesties," that it was conquered by Don Juan 
 Ponce de Leon in 1508, who in the next year founded LOCAL 9? mONS 
 
 Or 
 
 the first town under the name of Caparra, and that PUERTO RICO. 
 the island belongs to Spain, "to whom it ow r es its 
 discovery, its conquest, its wealth and its civilization." The natural 
 beauties of the island, and the curiosities which tourists ought to see 
 are named, including the caves of Aguas Buenas, the great cavern of 
 Pajita in Lares, that of Cialese, not far from the capital, "the cave 
 of the dead" near Utuado, the cascade of Santa Olalla, near Bayamon, 
 one called "the leap of the Cacique" near Guanica and a natural foun-
 
 404 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 
 
 tain near Aguadilla. The geographer declares that the climate of 
 Puerto Rico is very salubrious, although hot, like other intertropical 
 countries, but that Adjuntas, Aibonito, Cayey, Utuado, Lares and the 
 other mountain towns have a cooler temperature. He credits the 
 island with but two seasons the dry, during which the heat is greatest 
 and resulting sickness is most likely to occur, and the rainy season, 
 when the great tropical storms occur at times. The hottest months 
 are those from June to September, inclusive, and the rainy season is 
 from August to December inclusive. The author omits to place the 
 other months. The prevailing winds, except from November to Janu- 
 ary, are from the north, consequently bringing cool, fresh air from 
 the north Atlantic ocean. 
 
 It is concerning the aspect of the island and the people that the 
 
 geographer becomes eloquent. Of the former he says: "The aspect 
 
 of the island is the most beautiful which can be 
 
 PUERTO RICO O ff ere( j by nature; its fertile and exuberant fields, 
 
 A 
 
 BEAUTIFUL ISLE, its beautiful sky, the multitude of rivers which flow 
 
 through all parts, the great numbers of gay-plumaged 
 
 birds which inhabit its w r ooded hills, and its climate, modified by the 
 
 sea-breezes, give to our isle a magnificent appearance, presenting to 
 
 us picturesque vistas and unrivaled. landscapes." 
 
 "What is the character of the Puertoriquenan?" asks the writer, 
 then proceeding to answer his own question. 
 
 "His manner is affable and expansive. His complexion usually is 
 slightly pale, his countenance agreeable, his carriage erect and his man- 
 ner dignified and graceful. The people of Puerto Rico are honest, brave 
 and hospitable. ' Their constitution, like that of most inhabitants of 
 hot countries, is rather frail and inclined to sickness, although there 
 are many individuals, particularly those who devote themselves to 
 manual labor, whose physique is strong, agile and robust." 
 
 The little book contains detailed accounts of the physical char- 
 acteristics of the island, the mountains, lakes and rivers, the crops, 
 the cities and all other details. It has tables of distance, descriptions 
 of the roads and railways, and much other information which the chil- 
 dren in the island schools need to know. Altogether it is a right 
 encouraging sign to see as good a text book as this is produced locally
 
 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AMD THE HOTELS. 405 
 
 in an island which we are likely to think by no means equal to such 
 things. 
 
 I have been impressed by the excellent work in lithography, done 
 by certain engraving houses in San Juan. Those houses and one in 
 Mayaguez have made a specialty of map work and their maps of Puerto 
 Rico are by all means the best that can be obtained. The workman- 
 ship is good in every detail and the maps would do no discredit to the 
 best map makers in the United States, in spite of the fact that their 
 style of lettering, w r ith some other points of difference, makes them 
 seem peculiar. If there is merit in the old saw that printing is "the 
 art preservative of all arts," it is an excellent thing to see the printers' 
 craft with its kindred branches flourishing in Puerto Rico. 
 
 Places f worship and places of amusement alike in Puerto Rico 
 have been less frequented of late than might have been expected. In 
 Havana last year, it was not strange to find that the 
 people did not care to go much into public, when 41w 
 
 AJi ---. 
 
 nearly every one was mourning the loss of some EMPTY. 
 
 friend in the insurgent army. But Puerto Rico has 
 not suffered in the same way as Cuba and I could not overcome a 
 surprise to find churches and theaters alike almost empty. 
 
 In Ponce the opera house is an excellent one, built with some 
 attention to classic architecture, with a fine Greek portico in front 
 and constructed of masonry throughout. Within, the audience room 
 is arranged much after the fashion of our own theaters, except that 
 a greater part of the space is given up to boxes and stalls. The 
 seating arrangements are good, as are also the acoustic properties. I 
 judge the house to seat about 1,200 persons. The balcony connects 
 directly with the upper rooms of the leading club-house of the city, 
 so that members have a private entrance to the theater a^nd a prome- 
 nade accessible to them for refreshments between the acts, removed 
 from the rest of the audience. The stage is well equipped with fairly 
 modern scenery and accessories so that no American company journey- 
 ing there would suffer for accommodations. 
 
 The first time I went into the theater was in the afternoon, my 
 errand being to secure seats for the evening entertainment. The per- 
 formance was to be that of a troupe of Japanese jugglers and balancers,
 
 406 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 
 
 with dancing and other features. Inasmuch as this was the first com- 
 pany of any sort to appear in the theater for nearly two years, except 
 some amateurs of a local organization, it seemed that the house would 
 be full and I wanted to see a genuine audience of the people of Ponce. 
 Furthermore, the town was full of American officers who were likely 
 to welcome the opportunity for a little diversion and would help the 
 crowd in size. At the door I asked the price of seats for the evening. 
 The man at the door looked a trifle puzzled at the question and I 
 repeated it. 
 
 "Oh, you want tickets," he said. "I don't speak Spanish. Hey, 
 Billy, come here." And when "Billy" came, it developed that the pro- 
 prietors of the company were Americans, taking the 
 
 np|>T AT G OF 1 
 
 AN AMERICAN ^ rst opportunity t P^J a ^ at ^ in the newly acquired 
 
 TROUPE. territory. They knew Clark street in Chicago and 
 
 their Japs had played "the Hopkins circuit" and the 
 
 "Olympic" more than once. The trip was not proving a profitable one. 
 
 They had been in the tropics for several months, traveling as far south 
 
 as British Guiana and covering all the Windward and Leeward islands. 
 
 Now, on the homeward bound journey, they were trying the island 
 
 of Puerto Rico during the American occupation and had hopes of 
 
 reaching Cuba before they returned home. 
 
 "Only five of these 'manana' dollars for a box that will hold six 
 people," wailed "Billy," "and then we don't seem to be selling many 
 tickets." 
 
 A Theater Audience in Ponce. 
 
 That night there may have been a dozen Americans in the parquet 
 and a hundred people of the island. In the balcony the number was 
 less. In the gallery above there was a crowd of delighted, noisy men, 
 seeing wonders of which they had never dreamed. The tricks of the 
 Japanese needed no translation to be intelligible, so that everything 
 was encored to the limit, including those feat which include the 
 releasing of the American flags from the ceiling of the theater. Never- 
 theless there was no money in that sort of business, and after a "run" 
 of a few nights in the theater the company secured a big tent and 
 began a tent-show down the road toward the Playa.
 
 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 407 
 
 San Juan, the capital, has a very good opera house facing the 
 plaza of Columbus. The night after I reached the city, the house was 
 well filled to see a one-man performance in imitation of the work of 
 the Italian Fregoli, with quick changes of costume and an accompany- 
 ing drama. Except for this, there was no other performance while I 
 was in the city. There was a hope, however, that a company adver- 
 tising in Ponce might be induced to extend its journey to the capital. 
 The play they were offering was advertised as "El 
 Gran Drama Americano, La Cabana de Tio Tom," <<LA Jjjf MA 
 and as I had seen it a year before in Key West, per- TIO TOM." 
 formed by an amateur troupe of negroes, under the 
 more familiar name of "Uncle Tom's Cabin," with a "Little Eva" who 
 was as black as coal and whose hair was as kinky as wool, I cherished 
 a tender memory of the play and regretted not to see it in Spanish. 
 
 Most of the foreign entertainments reaching Puerto Rico are those 
 on their way to Havana and Mexico from Europe. They stop over one 
 boat and usually do pretty good business in the capital. Fregoli has 
 made that trip, and several well-known Spanish and Italian opera 
 companies. Loie Fuller has danced there and I believe Patti once 
 sang in this same theater. 
 
 Hotel Life in Puerto Rico. 
 
 Hotels of Puerto Rico, like olives, must be classed as an acquired 
 taste. They are all right after one learns to like them, but until that 
 time they are far from enticing and the process of acquiring the taste 
 is for some people an impossible undertaking. With few exceptions 
 they are all alike, barring minor differences of little consequence. In 
 Ponce, the principal hotel at the time of the American occupation was 
 the Frances, a name which one finds applied to the most pretentious 
 hotel in most towns of the island. It is intended to indicate traditional 
 French excellence of cooking, but, like the Hotel du Commerce of St. 
 Thomas, the best thing about it is the name. 
 
 The landlady of the Hotel Frances, Ponce, was a bustling little 
 Frenchwoman, with too much work for her own strength and time 
 and a husband who was as much of a superfluity about the house as
 
 408 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 
 
 is usual in such cases. When the business began to multiply beyond 
 
 all calculations, with the influx of Americans, Madame became more 
 
 distracted than ever. She kept no books, or none 
 
 HOTEL CONDITIONS that were of anv gerv i ce i n settling accounts, appar- 
 
 UM 
 
 PONCE. ently depending on the honesty of each guest when 
 
 he departed, to remember how long he had been a 
 lodger, and to inform her of that essential fact. The cafe was crowded 
 at meal time, until Madame was compelled to take the great salon of 
 an adjoining house and turn it into a dining-room. For guest rooms 
 there was no improvement she could make. The house was boxed in 
 between the walls of the two adjoining residences and every room 
 but two or three was an inner chamber, without window to the street. 
 This in a tropical climate is almost intolerable and no one, however 
 able to adapt himself to strange circumstances, could pretend to be 
 satisfied with it. Poor ventilation, inadequate bathing facilities and 
 extreme heat form a difficult combination to face with equanimity. 
 
 The meals served by Madame, like those in almost every hotel of 
 the island, consisted mostly of meat. The beef of Puerto Rico is tough 
 by nature, and, cooked in a way to intensify its toughness, it becomes 
 by no means palatable. Pork, mutton and veal were little better and 
 it was to chicken that we had to turn for relief. As for vegetables, 
 they were seldom served. It seems that potatoes cannot be grown 
 in the island and few are imported. At any rate we did not see pota- 
 toes served at meals half a dozen times in all the weeks we were in 
 the island. In the market places we used to see fresh, green vegetables 
 of many sorts, including tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, lettuce, radishes, 
 beans and others strange to our sight, but they never reached the 
 table of the hotels throughout the island. Instead, 
 
 Ml \ T 
 
 FOR EVERY a Dinner ^ s e yen r eight kinds of meat would be 
 DINNER SERVICE, offered, with soup and fish, the latter usually im- 
 possible because of the high seasoning of rancid oil. 
 For dessert there came no sweetmeats or pudding or custards of any 
 traditionally dainty French sort, nor even fruit except rarely, but, 
 always and regularly, twice or even three times a day, the ever-present 
 guava paste with cheese of goats' milk. I yield to few in my relish 
 of that dish, but even I must confess to a sense of growing monotony
 
 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 409 
 
 in eating it twice a day, at luncheon and dinner, every day for several 
 weeks. As is the custom in most countries other than our own, the 
 early morning meal as offered to guests of the hotel, 1 was not a real 
 breakfast, but merely coffee. Now, that does not mean, as it does in 
 other countries, coffee and rolls, or coffee and boiled eggs, or coffee 
 and toast and bacon, but actually only a cup of black coffee or coffee 
 and hot milk. It is true that the American visitors, after an effort, 
 established the precedent that they could have boiled eggs and bread 
 and even sometimes a banana, but the innovation was not approved 
 by the people of Puerto Kico, who looked on and marveled that one 
 could eat so heartily at such a time of day. 
 
 After these strange conditions of trade had burdened Madame 
 for a few weeks, she began to confide in a few of her best customers 
 that she had the intention of improving ..things. Then she got out 
 a roll of architects' drawings and showed elevations, perspectives, 
 plans and specifications for a handsome new hotel. There was a tract 
 of land, she explained, which she had owned for some time, and on 
 which she wished to erect a handsome, modern hotel building, after 
 her own ideas. These were not new plans, but she had them in 
 readiness pending the time when she could carry them into effect. It 
 was then that we began to feel sorry for Madame. She was a 
 nice little woman, but she could not run a hotel that would suit 
 Americans. It was a certainty that she would put all her money into 
 the wrong kind of a building, expecting a monopoly 
 of the rush business that was crowding her rooms MA1)AM E OF PONCE 
 
 JlA 15 
 
 and her coffers then, and when it was all .done and ASPIRATIONS. 
 the hotel opened, some American who knows how to 
 run a hotel to suit Americans would come to Ponce and take all the 
 business with a new place of his own. Madame would do better to 
 make hay with the old hotel while this year's sun is shining, and then 
 stick to the sort of local trade among local travelers that had been 
 hers before the Americans came. 
 
 Another hotel opened in Ponce while I was there, to catch the 
 trade of the American rush, naming itself Hotel Washington. There 
 was quite enough business for it and all the others in the city, so 
 they all made money as they had never done before,
 
 410 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 
 
 In Guayama there were three hotels of about equal merit, the 
 Frances and the Esmeralda in one-story buildings, and the third, the 
 name of which escapes me, on the second floor of a business building. 
 Until the American occupation they must have been more than ade- 
 quate to the demands of local travel, but when the American occupa- 
 tion reached the hotels they became more than full. There, however, 
 in Hotel Frances, we found more variety of food than in Ponce. Vege- 
 tables appeared on the table a little oftener and even one or two novel- 
 ties in the way of local island dishes. Besides that, we had established 
 the habit of catering for ourselves to some extent, for food less heat- 
 ing in a tropical midsummer, and were patronizing 
 
 FTYF MFLOXS 
 
 J j^ the markets. Melons were ripe, though one would 
 
 PUERTO RICO. n t discover the fact in the hotels, and they became 
 
 a staple. The melons of Puerto Eico are a sort of 
 
 canteloupe, larger than our American nutmeg melon, but not as large 
 
 as the yellow canteloupe. They are delicate in flavor, sweet, firm, 
 
 and a great treasure in the tropics, especially in Guayama and from 
 
 there to San Juan, while no ice can be had. 
 
 On the road from Guayama to the capital, over the splendid mili- 
 tary highway, one passes the towns of Cayey, Caguas and Rio Piedras, 
 besides some smaller villages. The three named are the only ones 
 where accommodations for travelers can be had and they are meager 
 in quantity and quality. Not more than three or four rooms can be 
 found at the disposal of the casual traveler in any one of those places. 
 The comforts they provide are ample for those who are not exacting 
 and who have worked up to them gradually, but they would seem 
 very primitive to one coming directly from a modern hotel in the 
 United States. 
 
 San Juan, the capital, is better provided than any other city in 
 the island, with hotel accommodations. The Inglaterra, like the hotel 
 of the same name in Havana, is the leading house, but there are others 
 
 sufficientlv comfortable. The Inglaterra occupies the 
 HOTEL INGLA- , , , . , 
 
 TERRA SAN JUAN seconcl ancl third floors of a three-story building on 
 
 DE PUERTO RICO, one of the principal streets, with its coffee-room on 
 
 the street floor. On the next floor are the little 
 
 office, the parlor and about two-thirds of the guest rooms. More than
 
 
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 co -a s 
 
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 w g .^ 
 
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 C5 <D ^ 
 
 w xi 13 
 
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 LITERATURE, THE DRAMA, AND THE HOTELS. 413 
 
 half of these open into the square parlor, like it having no windows to 
 the outer air. The parlor, however, is virtually a rotunda, extending 
 to the roof with a great sky-light and ventilators above. On the third 
 floor the dining-room occupies the east side of the house, with a beau- 
 tiful outlook over ocean and harbor. A gallery encircles the parlor- 
 rotunda at this level and the most desirable guest chambers are on 
 this floor, extending from gallery to the outer wall, with windows and 
 private balconies overlooking the harbor. 
 
 If one is accustomed to the Spanish style of cooking and serving 
 food, the meals at the Inglaterra are excellent. The table is amply 
 provided, vegetables and fruits forming a much larger part of the bill 
 of fare than in any other hotel in the island. There is European 
 style at the meals, which is not true of any other hotel in Puerto Rico. 
 People dress for dinner, there are flowers and silver and white linen, 
 and, altogether, no one need complain of life there unless the detail of 
 Spanish cooking makes it impossible to him. 
 
 There is one other hotel on the island which is entitled to be 
 named. It is the summer and winter resort of the Coamo baths, a 
 place to which the people of Spain and South America have been 
 coming for centuries, for the sake of their health and the baths in the 
 splendid springs of hot and cold mineral water which flow from the 
 earth there. The hotel is Spanish, but it is excellent, and no traveler 
 will regret a little journey there as a part of his visit to Puerto Eico.
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 THE AGRICULTURE AND PRODUCTS OF 
 PUERTO RICO. 
 
 Where the Greatest Opportunities Will Be Found An Agricultural Experiment Sta- 
 tion in Puerto Rico Cotton and Its Possibilities Conditions of Rice Cultiva- 
 tion Cacao and the Chocolate Bean How Coffee Is Cultivated Sugar and Its 
 Profit Corn Cocoanuts Oranges, Lemons and Limes Pineapples and Their 
 Possibilities ^Pepper Bananas the Universal Fruit Tobacco The Vanilla 
 Bean Mahogany Poor Quality of Domestic Animals. 
 
 INDUSTRIAL Puerto Rico devotes itself almost altogether to agri- 
 culture and kindred pursuits. There are few manufactories except 
 those supplying some immediate local want of the people. In the 
 larger towns there are ice factories. At San Juan the Standard Oil 
 company has a small refinery, where crude oil brought from the United 
 States is rectified. Shoes are made by hand by native workmen and 
 other mechanical trades are represented everywhere, but they do not 
 reach the importance of a commercial pursuit. It is the forests and 
 the fields of the island that will furnish to American investors and 
 possible immigrants their opportunities for profit and the develop- 
 ment of the tropical wealth of the island. Not only is this true, but 
 the same pursuits offer more attractions in the manners of life they 
 permit than most other possibilities of the island. 
 
 Agriculture as a science has not been neglected by the provincial 
 government of Puerto Rico. A successful experimental station is main- 
 tained at Rio Piedras, tlie results of which have more than justified 
 its establishment. The recent director of the station, 
 T? R " Fernando Lopez Tuero, has been considered the best 
 
 O> 
 
 AGRICULTURE, technical authority on the products of the island, and 
 his statements are the source of much of the informa- 
 tion which I have obtained on agricultural affairs. As a part of his 
 work, he has issued a series of monographs on tropical agriculture 
 
 414
 
 THE PRODUCTS OF PUERTO RICO. 415 
 
 which are of great value to any one interested in such subjects. They 
 apply specifically to the island of Puerto Eico, but in much of their 
 information they may be applied alike to any tropical island of simi- 
 lar climate and soil. The products which Mr. Tuero discusses are 
 cotton, rice, camphor, cacao, coffee, sugar, corn, cocoanut, pineapple, 
 pepper, bananas, tobacco, vanilla and several vegetable dye products. 
 The list indicates the variety of possibilities in island agriculture. His 
 estimates are as conservative as those of any authority to be found 
 and may be accepted with considerable confidence. Practical men with 
 whom I have talked in almost all of the different branches of island 
 agriculture, support his calculations as fairly correct. 
 
 Concerning cotton, Mr. Tuero says that it requires land of good 
 quality, depth and substance, which w T ill cost about 60 pesos an acre 
 or an annual rental of 3.33 pesos. This annual rental, or a corre- 
 sponding interest on the investment if the land is purchased, is in- 
 cluded in his estimate of the annual cost of cultivation, which he calcu- 
 lates to be 41 pesos an acre. From the cotton seed and the cotton he 
 expects an annual return of 53.50 pesos, or an annual profit per acre, 
 above the 5.5 per cent interest on the investment, of 12.50 pesos. 
 
 Conditions of rice cultivation are somewhat different in Puerto 
 Kico from those found in other countries. There is a peculiar but 
 excellent variety, which does not require irrigation 
 
 THAT 
 
 mountain rice it is locally named so that all the 
 
 ON 
 
 expense of ditches and the discomfort of working in jj R y LAND. 
 a swamp are obviated. The rains furnish sufficient 
 water for the growing crop, and the local demand for consumption in 
 the island always is greater than the suppty. With these advantages 
 it is estimated that the profit on rice, in addition to the interest on 
 the investment, should be about 14.35 pesos an acre. 
 
 Cultivation of cacao, out of which the chocolate and cocoa of com- 
 merce are made, is a matter less familiar to Americans than almost 
 any other product of Puerto Eico. The tree under favorable conditions 
 grows to a height sometimes of forty feet, bearing small red flowers 
 and great quantities of pods, containing each from twenty to forty 
 almond-shaped beans, which are the object of the industry. Most of 
 the cacao for consumption in the United States is grown in Ecuador
 
 416 THE PRODUCTS OF PUERTO RICO. 
 
 and Bolivia. With Puerto Rico a part of the United States and no 
 duty to pay on what is shipped to us from there, the advantage in favor 
 of, the island will be a notable one. As it is, although the crop requires 
 several years to come to the full measure of bearing, still it is one 
 of the most attractive possibilities of the island. It has the additional 
 advantage that the competition is likely to be less than in coffee and 
 sugar, which are attracting the greater number of American investors. 
 A cacao plantation requires eight years to come to full bearing. 
 At the end of the eighth year, according to the estimates of Mr. Tuero, 
 the plantation has cost, in interest and expense, a total of 208 pesos 
 an acre. In the same time there should be a return 
 
 OF on th e cr P of 104 P esos an acre > most of which, 
 A. CACAO 
 PLANTATION. however, would come during the last year of the 
 
 calculation. The de*ficit, then, for the whole term 
 would be 104 pesos an acre. But from that time forward, during what 
 the authority calls the normal period, the annual expenses and interest 
 are estimated at 49 pesos an acre and the receipts from the produc- 
 tion at 130 pesos, or a net profit of 81 pesos. 
 
 Coffee and sugar have had the greatest amount of attention from 
 the scientific farmers of Puerto Rico, as their most valuable crops. 
 The estimates made on them have a large amount of accurate data 
 behind them, based on years of experiment and practical knowledge 
 on the part of many planters. Coffee is credited with reaching its 
 period of full bearing in the island in six years from the establishment 
 of the plantation. Within this time the plantation should cost in 
 interest or rent and expense a total of 162 pesos an acre and should 
 return from the crop, mostly in the last year, 86 pesos, or a net deficit 
 of 76 pesos. After that, during the period of full production, the cost 
 should be annually about 66 pesos an acre and the return 90 pesos, 
 or an annual profit, above interest on the investment, of 24 pesos. 
 
 Before planting coffee a plentiful shade must be provided. For 
 the first two years a temporary shade is furnished by banana trees, 
 and after that larger trees are planted and trained to give a perma- 
 nent shade. The coffee trees grow about eight feet high and send out 
 new shoots from the ground in different directions. The stems are 
 about the size of a small lead pencil and they are lined from end to
 
 THE PRODUCTS OF PUERTO RICO. 417 
 
 end with the berries, each of which contains two of the coffee grains. 
 
 ' O 
 
 The berries are dark green until they approach 
 
 ripening time, late in September, when they turn a PREPARATION 
 
 OF COFFEE 
 bright, rich red. Between the skin and the grains is FOR J^RKET. 
 
 a kind of jelly, which is washed off after the skin 
 is broken by a machine. The coffee is then dried on racks or cement 
 floors in the open air and is ready for the market. The coffee of Puerto 
 Rico is as good as that grown anywhere, and in the London market 
 usually commands the highest price. The mountain coffee plantations 
 are sources of great wealth to their owners, and even the poorest of 
 the natives has a few coffee trees near his house. 
 
 Sugar is the next most important crop in Puerto Rico. Senor 
 Tuero's estimates have been made with great care on this product and 
 may be accepted as correct. The first investment charged in the esti- 
 mates on sugar is a heavy one. It provides for the erection of build- 
 ings and the purchase of machinery for a plantation of 250 acres, to 
 a total of 52,500 pesos. The interest on this investment, however, is 
 charged carefully in the tables of expense. The total cost of interest, 
 preparation of land, cultivation, preparation of crop and marketing 
 is calculated at 152 pesos and the annual return from the crop at 170 
 pesos, or a total net profit of 18 pesos an acre. With the duties on 
 sugar imported into the United States no longer charged against the 
 crop of Puerto Rico, this profit, like that on other crops, should 
 increase. 
 
 The discouraging conditions in the island for the last few years 
 have affected the sugar industry more than any other. Puerto Rico has 
 suffered with Jamaica and the Caribbees because of the legislation of 
 the United States in regard to the sugar tariffs and 
 bounties. To-day there are many fine plantations D C IES 
 
 Or IHJb 
 
 lying idle, with the mills and other buildings falling SUG1R INDUSTRY. 
 to decay. Much of the sugar land has been given up 
 to cattle-raising because of the greater profit promised thereb}'. 
 Corn is a crop which will be more familiar to most of the Amer- 
 ican farmers who try their fortune in Puerto Rico and it is one with 
 no risk whatever involved. The crops are always good and there is 
 a demand locally for most of the yield, while the surplus, if any, can
 
 418 THE PRODUCTS OF PUERTO RICO. 
 
 be sold to advantage in the neighboring islands of the West Indies. 
 The cost of the crop is calculated at 33 pesos an acre, including interest 
 on the investment, or rent of the ground, and the value of the crop at 
 49 pesos, or a net profit of 16 pesos an acre. 
 
 For one who can wait for his income, or who has other interests 
 to occupy his time while waiting, the plantation of cocoanut palms 
 offers many attractions as well as a promise of remarkable profit. 
 The trees come to full bearing in from seven to ten years from the date 
 of planting, and they continue to yield a full crop until they are fifty 
 years old, without any cultivation or attention except to gather the 
 nuts. Then they begin to diminish in their bearing capacity. The 
 cost for interest and labor up to the time of bearing is reckoned to 
 be 152 pesos an acre. When the crop comes, it should bring a return 
 of about 320 pesos an acre annually, with but little expense for atten- 
 tion to the trees, the extermination of vermin which may attack them, 
 and the gathering of the crop. 
 
 Citrus fruits have not been cultivated with much care in Puerto 
 Rico and no attention has been paid to improving the varieties. 
 Orange and lemon trees bear in about four years. The 
 
 fruit is as g d as would be ex P ected when the little 
 THE FINEST. care ^ nas uad * s remembered, and without doubt an 
 industry could be built up profitably. Limes, how- 
 ever, are much more used in Puerto Rico than lemons, answering all 
 purposes quite as well. 
 
 A pineapple plantation in Puerto Rico comes to bearing the first 
 year of cultivation at a total expense of 40 pesos an acre. It is claimed 
 that the crop will bring in return 200 pesos an acre, leaving a profit 
 of 160 pesos a year. The figures are affirmed on all sides by men who 
 ought to know, and, if so, it should be one of the most tempting indus- 
 tries of the country. Under those circumstances it seems strange that 
 the pine is not more generally raised in the island. 
 
 Pepper comes to what may be called its full bearing term in the 
 fifth year of cultivation, but the increase still is constant and rapid 
 until the twentieth year. Then begins a slow reduction in the annual 
 yield, which makes it run out altogether in the fortieth year after 
 planting. The industry is not yet general in Puerto Rico, but suffi-
 
 THE PRODUCTS OF PUERTO RICO. 419 
 
 cient experiments have been made to prove that it will be a valuable 
 part of the island's production. The profit for the middle thirty years 
 of the period of forty is calculated to be 160 pesos annually, on an 
 annual cost of 100 pesos. Spanish colonists from Manila introduced 
 the cultivation of pepper into Puerto Kico. 
 
 In Mr. Tuero's estimates, bananas are credited with an annual ex- 
 pense of 45 pesos and an annual return of 160 pesos an acre. In Puerto 
 Rico, however, this crop is not raised commercially to any great extent. 
 It is found all over the island, at every roadside, on every hill and in 
 every valley. Its broad leaves shade the huts of the native peasants 
 and its load of rich fruit feeds them. It holds about the same relation 
 to the bill of fare in Puerto Rico that potatoes do to us. There are 
 many varieties, varying in size, color and flavor. 
 
 Some are eaten raw, others are dried and made into BANANAS F <>R 
 
 THE 
 flour, while others are cooked as a vegetable. Inas- AMERICAN MARKET 
 
 much as the climate and soil enable every one to grow 
 bananas enough for his own use, there is no occasion for the estab- 
 lishment of a plantation to grow them for local consumption. For 
 the American market, however, Puerto Rico should offer considerable 
 profit in the cultivation of this favorite fruit. 
 
 Tobacco in Puerto Rico is a paying crop and is cultivated much 
 as it is in the United States. The estimates on profit allow an annual 
 cost of 79 pesos, including, as usual, interest, rent and all details of 
 cultivation. The return is figured at 144 pesos, thus making an annual 
 profit of 65 pesos per acre. The tobacco is hardly equal to the best 
 Yuelta Abajo of Cuba, but improved methods of cultivation and curing 
 ought to bring it up to the highest quality. The best plantations are in 
 the vicinity of Coaino and Aibonito. 
 
 The vanilla bean has the most generous claims of all as to the 
 profits to be expected from its culture. It is claimed that the cost of 
 raising the crop would be 94 pesos an acre yearly, most of which w r ould 
 go for manure and irrigation and that the annual return per acre w r oukl 
 be 652 pesos -an acre. 
 
 The wealth of Puerto Rico in mahogany has been little used, that 
 industry not appealing to Spanish planters. The result is that Haiti 
 and Santo Domingo have had the monopoly in that line, which Puerto
 
 420 THE PRODUCTS OF PUERTO RICO. 
 
 Rico miglit have shared. The mahogany forests are usually on the 
 mountain slopes facing the sea, from which logs could be rafted down 
 the little streams to the railway along the north coast. The most 
 grievous thing I learned about mahogany during my 
 
 W0rk amon S the islands was that in st Johns and 
 FIREWOOD. the other obscurer islands of the group of which St. 
 Thomas forms a part, the markets are so scant and 
 the people so indifferent to the wealth at their doors, that they actually 
 burn mahogany for firewood without the slightest compunction or 
 realization of their act Some one ought to go down there and teach 
 them better, to his ow r n profit and theirs. 
 
 In connection with the rural industries of Puerto Rico, it is neces- 
 sary to say here that farmers must depend upon draft oxen and not 
 upon horses. Of cattle-raising in the island, I have spoken in an earlier 
 chapter. The horses are poor and small, so that there will be an oppor- 
 tunity to improve them by the introduction of American stock. The 
 other domestic animals found in the island seem to be dwarfed as the 
 horse is, and need new blood to make them large enough for useful- 
 ness. Goats, sheep, hogs and poultry are all too small and almost 
 worthless, measured by American standards. 
 
 In all of the calculations of possible profit in agriculture in this 
 chapter I have used pesos instead of dollars as the unit. The purpose 
 and significance of this I shall discuss in the next chapter, in connec- 
 tion with the finances of the island. Until a financial system is devised 
 for Puerto Rico as a substitute for the one now in effect it would be 
 impossible to make estimates in dollars with any degree of accuracy. 
 After that time, it will be a simple matter for the reader to calculate 
 the estimates here given in terms of dollars instead of pesos.
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 CATTLE RAISING IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 Successful Industry of an American Pioneer in a Spanish Colony A Great Cattle 
 Ranch African Stock in the West Indies Draft Oxen and Beef Cattle Va- 
 rieties of Pasture Grass in Puerto Rico Some Peculiar Cattle Pests Spanish 
 Violence to an American Citizen Public Land in Puerto Rico and How to 
 Obtain It The Land Transfer System of the Island Life on a Cattle Ranch. 
 
 AN INDUSTRY of interest to many Americans, and one which has 
 not been neglected in Puerto Rico, is the raising of cattle. Among 
 the cattle ranches of the island, the largest but one is owned by 
 a gentleman who had to leave at the outbreak of the war on account 
 of his American citizenship. Mr. Wencislao Borda is a cosmopolitan, 
 but he is a good American and one of the sort who develop primitive 
 countries and leave them habitable. His experience in pioneering may 
 be of value to others who are calculating on similar industries. His 
 parents were residents of the United States of Colombia, both of them 
 natives of Bogota, the capital, and of the most prominent families of 
 that republic. They removed to London, where my friend was born. 
 When he was nine years old, the family came to New York, and from 
 that time they have been Americans, the father by naturalization and 
 the children because they were minors when they came to America. 
 Mr. Borda was educated in colleges in New York, and, after his law 
 studies, practiced as an attorney in New York city for several years. 
 Then he went to the United States of Colombia for a few years, and at 
 last turned his attention to Puerto Rico, where his father had large 
 interests in cattle and sugar. 
 
 Hacienda Esperanza, the Borda cattle ranch, is near Barceloneta, 
 
 421
 
 422 CATTLE RAISING IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 a small station on the north-coast railway, about thirty miles west of 
 the capital. The tract of land lies along a river, which comes down 
 from the neighboring mountains, and flows into the 
 
 sea at tMs P int Tt extends ri S ht down to the ocean 
 PUERTO RICO, and includes lands of all sorts, suitable for ranching 
 
 as well as for crops. The pasture grasses are excel- 
 lent in quality, nutritious and plentiful. The cattle from this ranch 
 have commanded prices as high as any in the island, which is saying a 
 good deal in a country where cattle always have been high. The stock 
 has been carefully bred with the best strains of blood introduced into 
 the herd. American cattle formed the nucleus of the herd, and to that 
 start were added some choice importations from South Africa. The 
 African bullock is a favorite here for draught purposes the chief use 
 of high bred cattle here. The trace of the African hump is seen in 
 almost every animal under the yoke, something of a puzzle till the ex- 
 planation is offered. 
 
 Where all the freighting is done by ox-carts and the treatment of 
 them is severe enough to require the best stock, it is not strange that 
 the price of bullocks for the yoke should be an essential in the calcula- 
 tion of profits on a cattle ranch. It means a good deal that draught- 
 oxen are w T orth from 125 to 200 pesos a yoke, according to the quality 
 of the stock, the excellence of the match and the care with which they 
 
 have been broken to the yoke. Before the war too, 
 
 there was a big demand for beef-cattle, the prices 
 BEEF-CATTLE, ranging as high as three and a quarter or three and 
 
 a half pesos for the arroba, or 25 pounds. During the 
 war, and just after, the market was low because money was scarce, 
 there was not much work being done and the laborers were unable to 
 buy meat. 
 
 Several w r ell-known varieties of pasture grass grow well in Puerto 
 Rico, Guinea grass, Para grass and gramma among others. The first 
 does not require a rich soil, but does well in sandy soil, high on the 
 slopes of the hills, without much regard whether or not it is a well- 
 watered region. Cut and chopped it makes an excellent green fodder. 
 Para grass requires better land and lower, and consequently is selected 
 for those places where there is an alluvial soil to give richness. Such
 
 CATTLE RAISING IN PUERTO RICO. 423 
 
 a pasture usually occupies meadow land along the streams. Gramma 
 requires less richness than does the Para grass and will do well in sim- 
 ilar soil to that where the Guinea grass flourishes. Para grass makes 
 fat rapidly, but the beef-cattle fattened on it do not weigh as much, for 
 the same apparent size, as do those fattened on the other pasture. 
 
 Difficulties of Cattle Men, 
 
 Two pests have to be fought by the cattle-raisers here, which would 
 be altogether strange to a farmer of the north. One is the guava and 
 the other is a peculiar plant called by the local people "inori vivi." The 
 guava, where it is welcomed, is used as a worthy fruit and furnishes the 
 universal dessert for the dinner in Cuba and this island guava paste 
 with cheese. But on the cattle ranch it is anathema. Wherever the 
 guava grows, cattle eat the fruit w r ith avidity. They scatter the seeds 
 all about the ranch, and the energetic guava multiples. It is of rapid 
 growth and almost impossible of extermination except by the closest 
 care. Like the thistles of some northern farms, it overwhelms nature 
 and man and takes the place for its own. 
 
 The other pest, which by a free translation may be called "it lives 
 and it dies," is a sensitive plant in its action, but extremely hardy in its 
 ability to survive attack. The center of the little weed is surrounded 
 by a series of very sharp and stiff spines which lie 
 flat on the ground when the plant is not disturbed. S M p A sTURE IAR 
 At the first touch, however, they rise erect and bristle PESTS. 
 with points like a porcupine on a small scale. As the 
 cattle graze about the pasture, they come to these armored weeds, and 
 attempt to eat the tempting bit in the center. Then the spines rise to 
 stab the tender nose of the destroyer, and he retreats in haste. It does 
 not take long for cattle to learn the wisdom of not poking their noses 
 into the mori vivi. Then the plant multiplies unmolested until it may 
 even overrun a pasture. It not only protects itself in this fashion, but 
 it prevents the cattle from reaching other grasses that may be growing 
 with it. 
 
 These two pests are worse enemies than the Spaniards to a planta- 
 tion which has been left to care for itself for a time. Sometimes they
 
 424 CATTLE RAISING IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 claim a whole pasture so completely that it must be abandoned for a 
 season while the interlopers are exterminated. These are some of the 
 reasons why Mr. Borda was in doubt what condition he would find when 
 he could return to his place again in safety. 
 
 When the war broke out, or at the time when it became neces- 
 sary for American citizens to leave Puerto Rico, Mr. Borda went to 
 New York where his parents and brother live, to wait for the cam- 
 paign. At the opening of the campaign he came with General Brooke 
 in an unofficial capacity, and w T as of great service because of his 
 knowledge of the language, the people and the country. As soon as it 
 was possible to do so, he made a flying journey to Hacienda Esperanza, 
 from whence he had just returned when I saw him first. He told me 
 that the Spaniards had killed many of his cattle for 
 the use of the army and had done considerable dam- 
 
 _ 
 
 Ei DAGGER. age in other ways. At one time his herds numbered 
 about 3,500, but they are now considerably reduced 
 from that figure. Furthermore, within the week, he had been driven 
 out of his own plantation by threat of danger to his life, the mayor of 
 Barceloneta finally coming to him and urging him as a friend to leave 
 for the capital before it was too late. Other Spanish officials in the 
 neighborhood came to arrest him, but he was able to compel a delay, 
 and so left the place. The volunteers threatened to kill him if they 
 got him in their power. 
 
 Inasmuch as the violence he has had and the loss he has suffered 
 are specifically because he was known as an American citizen, Mr. 
 Borda felt that the claim which he had filed with the state depart- 
 ment at Washington is one that was entitled to consideration. He be- 
 lieved in the policy of conciliation, in order to bring the island back 
 to peace as rapidly as possible and mollify the feelings of the pro- 
 Spanish element as much as is proper. But he did not think that so 
 much attention should be paid to making good Americans out of them 
 by giving them favors and offices and deference, that there should be 
 no favor or justice left for those who have been good Americans all the 
 time, and have paid for it with their property. 
 
 There is some public land still remaining in Puerto Rico, in the 
 ownership of the province, but not a great deal. Of course the best
 
 CATTLE RAISING IN PUERTO RICO. 425 
 
 lands are not to be found in this category, but there are some that could 
 be made into coffee plantations. The committee on public lands has 
 an office and a secretary in the building devoted to 
 public offices in the capital. Its records and surveys 
 are very incomplete and there is no way by which the PUERTO RICO. 
 land-seeker can go to this office and obtain informa- 
 tion as to what lands are still unoccupied. But when one discovers a 
 certain tract of land which is reputed to be in public ownership 
 -crown lands they have been till recently he goes to-the office, ascertains. 
 the fact, "denounces" it to the secretary and pays for a survey. Then 
 it is appraised by a committee, and the land is sold to the buyer under a 
 system of annual payments which are by no means burdensome. Lands 
 obtained in this way usually are cheaper than adjoining properties held 
 in private ownership, but as I have said, there is not a large quantity 
 to be had, and until a careful island survey is made there will be no 
 way to tell what land could be secured thus. 
 
 The land-transfer system of Puerto Kico is quite simple and satis- 
 factory, far more like the Australian system or the Torrens law than 
 what is found in most of the United States. All titles run back to the 
 old Spanish grants, given as rewards for some service to the monarch, 
 often of enormous extent and conflicting. But a silence of twenty 
 years invalidates any claim to land in Puerto Rico, so that there is little 
 litigation on land titles in the courts any more. Most of the titles now 
 need to be investigated only as to the last twenty years and that is 
 simple enough. In ten minutes one may trace the 
 condition of the title to anv piece of land. The law SYSTEM OF TITLES 
 
 LAM) 
 
 requires that all mcumbrances must be recorded with- TRANSFER. 
 out delay. These records for any piece of property are 
 spread on one page usually, though some that have been transferred 
 frequently have turned to a second page. The items never are scat- 
 tered, however, and all the items are to be found in the one place. A 
 transfer of land must be certified before a notary and then the regis- 
 tration, with a moderate fee, completes the record.
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 ? 
 
 THE FINANCIAL SYSTEM AND CONDITIONS 
 OF THE ISLAND. 
 
 Circulating Medium of Puerto Rico Military Bates of Exchange for American 
 Money Commercial Law Stronger than Military Floating Debt of the Island 
 Mortgages on Real Estate Where the Financial Magnates of the Island 
 Stand The Laborers and Their Relation to the Financial System How Spain 
 Gave Puerto Rico a Distinct Coinage of Its Own Bank Notes the Only Paper 
 Currency How the Banks of Puerto Rico "Were Organized The Course of For- 
 eign Exchange The Land Bank of Puerto Rico. 
 
 THE changing of the system of coinage and finance of Puerto Rico 
 to that of the United States, as no doubt will have to be done 
 at the very beginning of reorganization, will be by no means a 
 simple problem. How this change is to be effected with the least harm 
 to any one is the question which, more than any other, troubles the 
 people of the island. Their values are expressed in silver at present, and 
 always have been, the silver now a depreciated currency. For a circu- 
 lating medium they have the special coinage made for them in the 
 Spanish mint, of silver to the amount of 7,000,000 pesos, or whatever 
 portion of that still remains in the island, a little fractional copper 
 coin, and the large amount of notes issued by the Banco Espanol de 
 Puerto Rico, which pass at par with silver. 
 
 The people understand quite well that with the intimate com- 
 mercial relations rapidly forming between the island and their new 
 mother country, they cannot be left to do business w T ith a depreciated 
 currency, and the change to the American standard must come soon. 
 The}- understand equally well that the silver coins at present in circu- 
 lation, with the portrait of Alfonso, the Spanish arms and the mark of 
 the Madrid mint cannot be loft in use, but must be withdraw,! by 
 
 426
 
 FINANCIAL SYSTEM OF THE ISLAND. 427 
 
 the United States and a substitute provided. Furthermore, they 
 recognize that the notes of the Spanish bank will 
 have to be called in unless some special favor is 
 
 SYSTEM 
 
 accorded them, which is not expected. They have IS SECESSARY. 
 
 no complaint concerning the fact that there is to be 
 
 a change, but the manner of the process is of great concern to them. 
 
 In the beginning, the military authorities at Ponce declared an 
 arbitrary rate of exchange for money of two pesos for one American 
 dollar. This ratio had no semblance of validity from any point of 
 view. The bullion in the peso was not worth near 50 cents, measured 
 by the market price of silver. On the other hand, the exchange value 
 of the peso of Puerto Rico in the markets of the world, low as it had 
 been forced by the unnatural condition of war, was far more than 
 50 cents, while its average value for the last few years was nearer 
 75 cents. But the military order w r as issued, and the military authori- 
 ties started in to make it effective. 
 
 It was soon evident that in purchases in the shops of Ponce the 
 order had no value at all. Merchants would not sell their goods at 
 any such ratio. When a price was made to a customer in pesos it 
 meant pesos, and if he tried to settle the bill with half the number 
 of American dollars the sale was declared off, as it should have been. 
 When a carriage driver was helpless, having given the service before 
 payment, sometimes he had to accept American dollars at "two for 
 one," but there always was a rankle in his mind, for he knew that the 
 money would not buy him as much as it should. 
 
 The custom-house, which was the only place where American offi- 
 cials had anything to do with money, started to encourage the rate by 
 accepting pesos or dollars interchangeably at the 
 two-for-one rate and paid out the coins on the same FICTITIOTJS RATIO 
 
 AT THE 
 
 terms. The result was that every man with an Amer- CUSTOM-HOUSE. 
 ican dollar went to the custom-house with it and 
 obtained two pesos until the cash box was overflowing with dollars 
 and the coins of Puerto Rico were not to be had. 
 
 The banks and money-changers of Ponce knew better than to 
 accept a fictitious ratio based on nothing. They had a fluctuating rate, 
 based on exchange on Europe as modified by local supply and demand.
 
 428 FINANCIAL SYSTEM OF THE ISLAND. 
 
 At times one could get 1.90 pesos for a dollar, but the rate usually was 
 far below that, 1.75 being the rate at which the greater portion of the 
 exchanges were made. 
 
 In Guayama, where there were fewer Americans and a more rigid 
 military commander, the effort to establish this rate met with more 
 success. If one boarded at a hotel and the bill was rendered to him 
 in pesos, he could pay it with half the number of dollars. Even the 
 stores there jdelded to the same condition at times. Up in the country, 
 at such towns as Cayey and Caguas and the neighboring villages, 
 American money was not accepted at all when I was there, except by 
 force of superior authority, which was seldom invoked. In San Juan, 
 the capital, the rate had no influence whatever. Merchants made 
 prices in pesos and required payment in pesos unless the dollars were 
 offered at their actual value in the course of commercial exchange. The 
 same was true of the hotels and other business concerns. As for the 
 banks on which American drafts were drawn, their rates were as low 
 as 1.65 and 1.70 for dollars, and they claimed this to be as much as 
 they could afford to pay in their dealings with the American banks, 
 with which they had to settle ultimately. The usual rate at the money- 
 changers' was 1.70 or 1.75. 
 
 If the volume of money in circulation in Puerto Rico were the 
 
 only thing to be considered in shifting the currency system from the 
 
 depreciated silver of Spain to the gold standard of 
 
 FLOATING DEBT th United states, there would be much less of a 
 
 BECOMES ' 
 
 A COMPLICATION. P llzz ^ e about it. If it were necessary, or expedient, 
 
 the United States might even afford to redeem the 
 pesos at par in dollars and stand the loss of, perhaps, $3,000,000 as a 
 matter of convenience in making the change. But there is a very 
 large floating debt in the island probably about 50,000,000 pesos, 
 though the estimates run from 40,000,000 to 75,000,000 and there is 
 where the trouble lies. 
 
 Some conditions are becoming apparent that seem almost anoma- 
 lous in the light of financial opinions as we know them at home. As 
 things are in Puerto Rico, it has become the interest of all debtors to 
 have the peso depreciate as much as possible, expressed in terms of 
 American dollars, and the creditors, on the other hand, are trying
 
 WOMEN OF PONCE, PUERTO RICO. 
 
 CATHEDRAL OF GUAYAMA, PUERTO RICO 
 
 This cathedral is considered second. in the Island, that of San Juan being largest and most pretentious-
 
 FINANCIAL SYSTEM OF THE. ISLAND. 431 
 
 to raise the silver peso to u position as near par as they can. The men 
 of money, in banking and other financial lines, are standing by silver 
 to argue its excellence in the commercial world, and the other people 
 are willing to see the coin rejected of men and humbled in the dust. 
 These facts are surprising to one from the United States, no matter 
 what his own views of finance at home may be, and they seem worth 
 looking into. 
 
 There exist in the island mortgages on real estate mostly planta- 
 tion property to the amount of 20,000,000 pesos and credits at least 
 to the amount of 25,000,000 or 30,000,000 pesos in commercial busi- 
 ness, unsecured except for personal credit. These 
 debts were contracted within the last ten years, the 
 mortgages forming the older part of the whole and PROVIDED FOR. 
 the commercial paper the more recent. Altogether, 
 then, they have been contracted while the rate of exchange on New 
 York was fluctuating from 25 to 75 per cent premium. If the money 
 current, therefore, is not changed at a reasonable rate, those who have 
 to recover on securities will suffer considerable loss, while those who 
 have to pay will obtain an unjust advantage. 
 
 The position of the financial men of the island is very clear. The 
 obligations which they hold have been created while silver was fluc- 
 tuating, with an average premium on gold of 50 per cent. They will 
 oppose the establishment of a fixed rate for settlements which makes 
 silver worth any less than that, because it will be a material scaling 
 down of their holdings. The debts are all expressed in terms "money 
 current." If the United States fixes a rate of exchange of 100 per cent 
 premium on American money and decrees that debts may be settled 
 on' those terms, a man with $50 may settle a 100-peso debt. If the rate 
 is to be 50 per cent premium it will take $66.66 to settle the 100-peso 
 debt, and so on. Obviously the creditor will profit by having a low 
 premium on the American dollar, and the debtor by a high premium. 
 Both sides recognize the situation and admit it freely. 
 
 The bankers show specifically that the rate of exchange would bear 
 them out in their contention, but to do so they argue energetically that 
 the silver coin of Puerto Eico should be judged not on its bullion value, 
 but on its exchange value in the market of the world, with the credit
 
 432 FINANCIAL SYSTEM OF THE ISLAND. 
 
 of the commerce of the island behind it. This, they insist, is the only 
 true test. 
 
 Mr. W. S. Marr, the Scotch manager of the great Central de Cano- 
 vanas, who gave me valuable information concerning the labor system 
 on the sugar plantations, and the matter of sugar centrals as invest- 
 ments, favored me with some of his views on the currency question 
 as it relates to Puerto Rico and to the sugar laborers and planters. 
 
 Concerning the effect on the people throughout the island he says: 
 "The laborers of Puerto Rico do not understand ethical terms and the 
 logic of purchasing power does not appeal to them. The} 7 may be told 
 
 that their wages under the gold standard will buy 
 LABOR AN] PI- 
 
 as much as their present wages under silver, 
 
 TAL SHOLLD 
 
 SHARE THE LOSS, ^ut when the} 7 see fewer pesetas for their daily earn- 
 ings than they get now r they are apt to make trouble. 
 I do not think that wages will be reduced in full proportion to the 
 change of standards, simply because of the difficulty of reconciling the 
 people to such a radical change. The employers should bear half the 
 change and the laborers half. For instance, a laborer who now gets 
 60 centavos a day in silver should get but 40 cents a day in gold 
 if the rate of exchange is established at 50 per cent premium on the 
 new currency which is to be introduced. I would advocate, however, 
 that the wage in such a case be 50 cents, really an increase in wages 
 measured by their purchasing power. If the employers will bear that 
 much burden of the change I think it may be put into effect without 
 difficulty. But you must not expect to exchange the silver of Puerto 
 Rico for the dollar of the United States at two for one. Even the 
 weak fiat of Spain has made the peso worth far more than its bullion 
 would justify at the market rate of silver." 
 
 Three years ago Spain gave to the island of Puerto Rico a dis- 
 tinctive coinage of its own and the story of the affair is another instance 
 of the way in which the islanders suffered robbery at the hands of their 
 mother country. 
 
 The money formerly in use in the island was the same as that used 
 in Spain, with no distinctive marks or design. As business increased 
 and the demand for a larger quantity of currency became imperative, 
 Mexican dollars were bought in large numbers and brought to Puerto
 
 FINANCIAL SYSTEM OF THE ISLAND. 433 
 
 Rico, where they entered the channels of trade promptly and passed 
 at par with the Spanish peso. In some way hard to understand, they, 
 too, drifted away, until once more the volume of circulation was alto- 
 gether too small for the demands upon it. Although the course of 
 exchange was always in favor of the island, because of its predomi- 
 nance of exports, yet the settlement of the annual balances seemed 
 to help it little, and the people were prosperous in credits, but with little 
 cash on hand. All transactions had to be made with commercial paper 
 instead of cash, and money was held at high prices by the banks. 
 
 In response to the repeated demands on the people of Puerto Rico 
 and the delegations sent back to Spain to formulate the demands, the 
 Spanish government finally promised to afford relief by means of a 
 special issue of coin for the island. In 1895 the 
 Spanish mint coined 5,000,000 pesos in silver and the SOCIAL COINAGE 
 next year coined a total of 2,000,000 pesos in frac- PUERTO RICO. 
 tional silver, the pieces being of the denominations 
 of 5, 10, 20 and 40 centavos. In size and nominal value the peso of 
 100 centavos corresponds to our silver dollar, so the fractional coins 
 are easily understood, though there are none of 25 or 50 centavos. No 
 change was made in the copper coinage, the pieces current in Spain, 
 of one and two centavos, still circulating in Puerto Rico. 
 
 The next thing to be done was to get the new coinage into circu- 
 lation. The Spanish government declared the Mexican dollars, which 
 had been used in business so generally, to be not only no longer legal 
 tender, but contraband, and forbade their use. Then it offered to 
 redeem them in the new pesos, calling them in and estimating their 
 value at 95 centavos. In issuing the new pesos for them at 100 the 
 Spanish treasury thus was making 5 per cent, but it pleaded justifi- 
 cation when complaint was made, saying that the cost of mintage and 
 distribution of the new coins left no profit. Then it began to be dis- 
 covered that there was something wrong with the coin itself, and 
 people began to ask if it was of an equal degree of fineness with the 
 Spanish peso. Spanish merchants at home refused to accept the peso 
 from Puerto Rico except at a discount of 20 per cent. The Spanish 
 government had made a large profit in addition to the admitted 5 
 per cent.
 
 434 FINANCIAL SYSTEM OF THE ISLAND. 
 
 The only paper currency in circulation in the island of Puerto Rico 
 is that issued by the Banco Espanol de Puerto Rico. There are no 
 government notes of any kind, either from the provincial treasury or 
 the treasury of Spain. The bank notes issued by the Spanish bank 
 have been compelled to meet all the demands for a circulating medium 
 except the silver coinage. 
 
 The Spanish bank of Puerto Rico was established by royal charter 
 
 of the date of May 5, 1888, with an authorized capital of 1,500,000 
 
 pesos and the privilege of increasing that to 2,000,000 when the gor- 
 
 ernor of the island should approve. It was granted the exclusive right 
 
 of issue in the island, on condition that its resources should be at the 
 
 disposal of the provincial government for loans up to a total of 500,000 
 
 pesos, on which the government should pay not more than 8 per cent 
 
 interest. The charter of the bank provides that it may 
 
 THE SPANISH isgue noteg Qr binetegj payable to. bearer at sight, 
 
 PUERTO RICO, to the amount of three times its capital, and of de- 
 nominations not less than 5 pesos nor more than 200 
 pesos. It is required that "the bank shall hold constantly in the vaults, 
 in money current, either gold or silver or in bullion of the same metals, 
 at least one-third of the total issue of billetes in circulation, and the 
 other two-thirds in preferred securities of terms not to exceed 120 
 days." 
 
 No other security is behind the issue of bank notes but the credit 
 of the bank itself. The government assumes no responsibility what- 
 ever except to make an inspection once in awhile, and the bank issues 
 no statements for public information. I was unable to learn even the 
 total amount of bank notes outstanding. Nevertheless the people seem 
 to be satisfied with the security offered and the notes circulate side by 
 side with silver without any variation in their value. It was explained 
 to me that the bank was sound and its management satisfactory to 
 the public, so that the notes were all right, whereas if they had been 
 guaranteed by the Spanish government there would have been a doubt 
 as to their value, and as soon as it became evident that Spain was to 
 lose Puerto Rico they surely would have begun to depreciate. 
 
 Spain abolished slavery by paying the slave owners something for 
 the property which was set free. In 1873, when slavery in Puerto Rico
 
 FINANCIAL SYSTEM OF THE ISLAND. 435 
 
 came to an end, there was a sum amounting to nearly $10,000,000 
 
 appropriated by the home government to settle the 
 
 bill, and the money was distributed in various ways "^J^I^m 
 
 . - . U^ M(XNEY 1HAI 
 
 without letting the slave holders get any great part FREE1) THE s^AYES. 
 of it. Many years were occupied in the distribution 
 of the fund and the closing of the deal, but the last item in it all was the 
 establishment of the Spanish bank of Puerto Rico. Former slave 
 holders were given one share in the bank for each slave they had held, 
 and the money which might have gone to them in cash was thus em- 
 ployed in starting the bank. The details of the story are a bit com- 
 plicated, forming one of the picturesque incidents in the history of 
 finance in the island, but the essentials are as above. 
 
 The bank devotes itself altogether to a current commercial busi- 
 ness, pa}ing no attention at all to country investments or farm loans, 
 which are left to the Agricola bank. It does a large business in com- 
 mercial discounts and short-time personal credits after the fashion 
 of city banks at home, carries a large number of deposit accounts for 
 merchants and capitalists and makes loans on city property in San 
 Juan. The bank rate for discounting commercial credits is 9 per cent. 
 If anyone is surprised at the rate of discount charged by the Spanish 
 bank, the comparison should be made with the private banks in San 
 Juan, which charge 12 per cent for the same service or with the banks 
 in country towns, whose rates usually are 18 per cent. 
 
 The Territorial and Agricultural bank partakes more of the nature 
 of what we know as a loan and trust company than of a bank in ordi- 
 nary commercial business. It is almost exclusively a land bank, carry- 
 ing current deposit accounts, it is true, but doing no discount business 
 at all, no foreign business and little in the way of short-time personal 
 security loans. The terms of the charter permit the bank to 'buy and 
 sell mortgages, to issue mortgage bonds payable to bearer, to make 
 loans on growing crops and to make loans for a maximum of ninety 
 days on personal security.
 
 CHAPTEE XXXI. 
 
 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 Foreign Investments in Business under the Spanish Regime Exodus of Spanish 
 Investors Probable Extent of German Influence in the Island Few Local Man- 
 ufactories Wages of Mechanics How Laborers Live Rents in the Capital 
 Insurance in Puerto Rico All Calculations made in Pesos The Postal Tele- 
 graph System of Puerto Rico The Shoe Trade of the Island Political Condi- 
 tions The Newspapers The Star Spangled Banner in an Island Cathedral 
 Schools Volume of Trade of Puerto Rico According to the Latest Official 
 Reports. 
 
 P 
 
 UERTORIQUENANS themselves control a larger proportion of 
 the property and the investments in the island, measured by 
 value, than do the people of any foreign country, but this pre- 
 dominance is due to the large number of small holdings rather than 
 the ownership of many large concerns. Most of the commercial and 
 industrial undertakings of great extent or capital are under the con- 
 trol of foreign investors, if indeed they were not originally planned 
 and established by them. 
 
 As might be expected, Spanish capital has been invested in the 
 island to greater extent than that from any other foreign country, and 
 after the Spanish come the investors of Germany, France, Great Britain 
 and the United States in the order named. It is a characteristic of the 
 first that in most instances the Spanish investor is a local resident, 
 watching the administration of his own enterprise, which is likely to 
 be a small one, but a profitable one if in the cities, or a large and 
 profitable one if in the country. Many of the commercial houses in 
 retail and wholesale trade are Spanish, the best hotels are Spanish, 
 some of the capital invested in banks arid mortgage loan companies 
 is Spanish. 
 
 It is probable that more of this line of investments will be on the 
 market for sale to Americans than any other. The German, the
 
 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 437 
 
 Frenchman, and the Englishman, assured of improved and more honest 
 forms of government, with lighter taxation under the 
 rule of the United States, are looking for higher 
 profits than they have had in the past. They have no OPPORTUNITIES. 
 sentiment involved in the matter, and will stay unless 
 they get prices which make it imperative to sell. But the Spaniard living 
 in Puerto Rico is not callous. He feels that a transfer of his allegiance 
 will be a grief, and if he can sell out to fair advantage, or even at a 
 sacrifice, he is going to do it. I found some Spanish gentlemen in busi- 
 ness who are going to remain and become American citizens, but I 
 found more who are going back to Spain if they can. 
 
 The cities are a small part of Puerto Rico, and it is in the hills 
 and the valleys of the island that the Spaniard has most of his prop- 
 erty. Furthermore, it is there that most American investors are likely 
 to look for bonanzas, irrespective of whether or not there are such to 
 be found. Most of the plantations which will go on the market 
 sugar, coffee, tobacco, cacao or whatever they may be will be those 
 of Spanish owners. They will be just as much cheaper than those of 
 the German or French or English proprietor as the measurable differ- 
 ence between the sentiment of the Spaniard who wants to withdraw 
 his capital from the island and go home to Spain, and the other investor 
 who sees prosperity in the change of administration and is^ill the more 
 anxious to stay. 
 
 It is not to be forgotten that one of the chief causes of irritation 
 in Cuba and in Puerto Rico has been this same element of Spanish 
 residents. Whether they have been carpet-bagging officeholders or 
 mere investors, it has been quite well understood that their only inten- 
 tion in the island was to make all the money possible and then go 
 back to Spain to spend it. They have not been settlers as we under- 
 stand the word, with the purpose of establishing a 
 
 home and a household where their property was. 
 
 _. , , . . .. . ,. J . , DENTS A CAUSE OF 
 
 They have stripped the people dishonestly, or the land IRRITATION. 
 
 honestly, and then have gone to Madrid or Paris or 
 Vienna to spend the proceeds. There will be two influences upon such 
 plantation owners, or haciendados, to induce their departure and the 
 placing of their places on the market. One will be their own senti-
 
 438 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 merit, the other their fear that the people of the local communities will 
 some day take an opportunity to resent past years by violence to person 
 or property. 
 
 Puertoriquefians are a primitive people, with primary ideas of the 
 administration of justice, and little training in the art of forgiving 
 their enemies. It may easily happen that the rights of property will 
 some day be forgotten by a plantation village in the hills, if the planta- 
 tion belonged to some Spanish officer who had been notable for the 
 severity of his administration or the oppression of his local rule. There 
 are grievous stories told me, well authenticated, which cannot be told 
 in detail. It is enough to say that the haciendado, often a Spaniard, 
 has been a local magnate, with a rule, in fact, far greater than the 
 letter of the worst law would countenance. It has depended upon 
 the character of the man himself whether or not his people were pros- 
 perous and contented or oppressed almost to the 
 limit f endurance - Tn ese and many others were 
 THE AMERICANS. ^ ue things which stimulated the people of Puerto 
 Eico to welcome the Americans as they did, in every 
 town where Spanish authority had been withdrawn, and they are the 
 things which will act to throw the larger part of Spanish investments 
 on the island into the market, at lower prices than would be accepted 
 for the corresponding holdings of any other element of the population. 
 
 In the cities, the Spaniard who keeps a retail store, whether it be 
 of groceries or dry goods or any other staple, feels that he may be 
 the subject of a virtual boycott as soon as there is any one else with 
 whom to trade, not necessarily an organized movement, but simply 
 an inclination to buy from American merchants when the} T come into 
 the field. 
 
 Just now that may not be a very large opportunity for American 
 merchants, but in time it will be one of the best for a few of the right 
 sort. Under the present conditions, with a total population in the 
 island of less than 900,000, and no large cities, the purchasing power 
 of the people is small and their demands equally small. The element 
 of population which lives after the European and American fashion 
 is almost infinitesimal to the whole. An American grocery store or 
 dry-goods store would be out of place to-day in all but three or four
 
 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 439 
 
 of the cities. But as the American population begins to enter the 
 island it will demand the same comforts and supplies with which it 
 was familiar at home, and by contact will teach the people of Puerto 
 Rico to want things of the same sort. Then the retail store, kept by 
 a man who is keen enough to understand local conditions as well as 
 those of American trade, will find business waiting for him. The few 
 who are in that line first, and learn first, are the ones who are sure 
 to be successful. 
 
 The American retail store opened in San Juan to-day, for instance, 
 if properly run, would be successful. It would get all the best class 
 of business by commanding it.* Good service, the best goods, careful 
 and attractive display of the stock, and, most impor- 
 tant of all, the "one price" system, are things that CHANGIKG CON ' 
 would surely win their way. On almost every article RETAIL TRADE. 
 of general local consumption, the United States can 
 undersell the markets as they have existed. Long credits will have to 
 go in time, both wholesale and retail, and if the local merchants can- 
 not adapt themselves to the changing conditions they no doubt will 
 have to go too. 
 
 Some of the keenest of them are recognizing all these facts already, 
 and are saying that they would like to sell out before they are crowded 
 out, this applying to Puertoriqueiians as well as Spaniards. They 
 admit that the American merchant is keener in trade than themselves, 
 and they fear the result of competition with him. I have had this 
 expression of opinion from merchants in groceries, dry goods, shoes, 
 furniture, hardware and drugs. Some of the best stores in the island 
 capital could be bought now to advantage, and it is undoubtedly the 
 best city in the island. 
 
 The interests held by German, French and English or Scotch in- 
 vestors will not be for sale to Americans except at a distinct profit 
 to the owners. The} 7 have anticipated the probable effects of American 
 administration in Puerto Rico, and their prices have risen materially. 
 Inasmuch as they have the advantage of experience in the island, 
 the American investor is not likely to do as well with a given property 
 in the beginning as they can do, and the price, consequently, is likely 
 to be too high for dividends unless he looks well to the future.
 
 440 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 
 
 There are but few manufactories in Puerto Rico, and, consequently, 
 
 few skilled laborers except in the mechanical trades. Manufactories 
 
 include match-factories, distilleries, breweries and soap-factories, with 
 
 cigar-factories far in the lead. Saddlery wares are manufactured to a 
 
 considerable extent, but the leather work does not compare with that 
 
 of Mexico. Shoes are made, but they are of such poor quality that the 
 
 trade will be destroyed as soon as American shoes get introduced. As 
 
 in all tropical countries, the houses are furnished with light chairs 
 
 and sofas made of bent wood and seated with cane of the usual sort. 
 
 Some of these are shipped into the island "knocked 
 
 MANUFACTORIES <jown," to be put together in local shops. Some are 
 
 PUERTO RICO. ma( le i n places that must be included as furniture 
 
 factories. Sweetmeats, dukes and chocolates are 
 
 made in great quantity, the manufacture of the chocolate beginning 
 
 with the bean in its raw state and continuing in the same factory 
 
 through every process until the cakes are ready for shipment in the 
 
 form we know it at home. 
 
 Unskilled labor in the cities, such as San Juan and Ponce, is paid 
 at the rate of 50 to 60 centavos a day, but for special work, such as 
 the coaling of vessels in the harbor, the rate runs even as high as one 
 to two pesos a day. Tinners get from one peso to a peso and a half. 
 Carpenters average 50 centavos more for their day's wages. Shoe- 
 makers get about the same wages as carpenters, while brick and stone- 
 masons get from one and one-half to three pesos a day. Engineers are 
 paid from 40 to 50 pesos a month. 
 
 These laborers live chiefly on rice, salt fish, jerked beef and bananas 
 or plantains, sometimes having meat but once a day. They occupy 
 the ground floor of the house where they live, which may be one of 
 the better residences of the city, and for it they pay a rent ranging 
 from 2^ to 5 pesos a month, according to the number of rooms. It 
 seems a strange system of tenantry that all the people of means 
 live on the second floor of the houses, while the ground floor is assigned 
 to the poorer people. The division is by strata instead of by districts, 
 although it is true that there are distinct divisions here as in other 
 cities as to which are the choicer streets. 
 
 In the capital, which is the fine city of the island, the division
 
 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 441 
 
 does not seem logical. The city is built on an island, with the big hill 
 which forms it arching into the harbor on the south and the Atlantic 
 ocean on the north. As one goes up the hill from the 
 harbor front the streets are all considered desirable H ^ w THE CITY 
 for three blocks, when they become less and less IS JJJJILT. 
 choice as one climbs the slope. At the summit, where 
 one overlooks both sea and harbor, with the benefit of every breeze 
 that blows to cool the house or drive away any impurities in the air, 
 are found the poorest houses and the poorest people. An American 
 would consider that the choicest location and hold it at the highest 
 price. It is certain that the American influx will not be long in 
 changing this condition, and the splendid residence sites looking out 
 to sea from the crest of the hill and its northern slope will soon rise 
 in value. Then the slums will have to move to a place where rents 
 are cheaper. 
 
 Most houses and business buildings in San Juan are rented on a 
 basis of 1 per cent of the investment monthly. Kesidences range from 
 30 to 100 pesos a month, according to size, location and the other 
 conditions which regulate house rent elsewhere. But this figure in- 
 cludes only the floors above the street, unless a stipulation be made to 
 the contrary, under the system which rents the ground floor for cheap 
 tenements. Stores bring rentals ranging from 40 to 100 pesos a 
 month. 
 
 Few of the buildings in San Juan are insured against loss by fire. 
 They are all of masonry, and a destructive fire would be impossible. 
 But in Santurci, a popular suburb, where the residences are almost all 
 of wood and of the villa style, everything is insured. The business is 
 all controlled by German and English companies, whose signs are seen 
 in the offices of all the private bankers and exporting firms in the city. 
 American companies have not entered the field. 
 
 In all financial items I have used the words "peso" and "centavo" 
 instead of "dollar" and "cent" in order to keep the distinction perfectly 
 clear, although they represent corresponding coins. As long as they 
 are not at par, or their relative value to one another fluctuates, it would 
 not convey an accurate idea of conditions to name island prices in 
 dollars. All the local transactions are in pesos, wages are paid in
 
 442 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 pesos and the expense of a household is measured in pesos. The people 
 krow no other system. 
 
 After annexation the government of the United States will have 
 to reckon with some puzzles in state ownership and kindred subjects 
 which it has annexed in connection with the rest of its new r posses- 
 sions. Not only is there a very popular and very 
 
 PT?,OSPPT{OT T S 
 
 POSTAL TELEGRAPH SUCceSsful P ostal savin S s bank system in operation 
 SYSTEM. i n t ne Hawaiian islands, but in Puerto Kico there is 
 a successful and profitable postal telegraph in opera- 
 tion. The system has made money at a high rate of profit over its 
 expenses. Either the United States will have to lease or sell it to some 
 private corporation, which will make money for itself out of the deal, 
 or the government will have to operate it and prove that it can do as 
 well as the traditional mismanagement of Spanish officials. 
 
 In Puerto Rico the people had organized their autonomous govern- 
 ment, which was granted by Spain too late to save Cuba for her own, 
 and had it in fairly good working order when the war began. An 
 election had been held in which nearly 200,000 votes were declared 
 to be cast. By agreement between the radicals and the conservatives, 
 the first being the people who are really Puertoriquenans and the last 
 the Spanish residents of the island the first cabinet was equally 
 divided between the two parties so that there was no trouble in the 
 organization. But the two houses of the colonial parliament in the 
 three sittings they held did nothing but discuss the budget and never 
 passed a law. Then war began and the civil government suspended its 
 functions in deference to military law and the captain-general was in 
 full sway again. 
 
 There was complaint among the radicals that the autonomy 
 granted was by no means all that it purported to be, but they con- 
 sidered it a step in the right direction and had hopes 
 
 PERSONALITY f t] f lltll] . ( >. For some of the flaws in it thov 
 OF PROMINENT 
 
 POLITICANS. charged Luis Munoz-TUvera, the secretary of govern- 
 ment and president of the ministry, who was in effect 
 the island premier. When the island was in tlio midst of its fight for 
 autonomy he was delegated to go to Madrid in the interest of the 
 effort. ITe has never been forgiven for some of the compromisrs lie 
 accepted.
 
 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 443 
 
 Julian E. Blanco is considered to be the ablest man in the island 
 ministry, but he is more than seventy years old and too feeble to 
 assume the labors of the premiership. He was made minister of 
 finance and placed in charge of the treasury department, in order to 
 have the benefit of his presence in the government. Mr. Blanco has 
 been a radical all his life. When he was but twenty-two years of age 
 he wrote a pamphlet predicting that before the end of the century 
 Puerto Rico would be annexed to the United States, and anticipating 
 many of the political incidents that have actually come true. Further- 
 more, he got into trouble with his own government at that time for 
 writing such a pamphlet for public circulation. 
 
 The other two members of the ministry were Juan Hernandez 
 Lopez, who had the ministry for justice and the church, and Dr. 
 Salvador Carbonell, minister of public works and instruction. All 
 were men of ability and eminence in island affairs, and it is likely that 
 they will be of service to the United States in some capacity under 
 the new regime. 
 
 The newspapers of Puerto Rico are very disappointing. They are 
 good neither in typography or the quality of their matter. English 
 residents of San Juan and Ponce welcome the little leaflets of cable 
 news published daily in St. Thomas, whenever they are obtainable, as 
 the only valid source of news. The papers of Puerto Rico have high- 
 sounding names, but they are little folio sheets with pages about ten 
 by twelve inches, printed in large type, and devoted in most part to 
 one long editorial and a few r personals. The advertisements include 
 a few offering land and houses for rent or sale and many offering patent 
 medicines, some of the latter the same as those most familiar upon 
 billboards at home. 
 
 The traveler in Puerto Rico will find much to interest him in the 
 places of worship throughout the island. The old church of Ponce 
 stands in the main plaza, backed by the gorgeous oriental structure 
 which does duty for a fire department building. The 
 church is one of the old ones of the island, exceed- 
 ingly picturesque without, but does not contain much OF THE 
 ornamentation or many relics of particular value. In 
 the smaller villages of the island sometimes one finds more attractive
 
 444 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 churches than this. At Guayama the music was excellent and serv- 
 ices were always well attended. The padre there was a fine old 
 Spanish gentleman, who loved his people and his church and was proud 
 of the fact that except for the cathedral in San Juan he had the best 
 church in the island. He took us about the old building from top to 
 bottom, showing every chapel and every shrine with genuine pleasure. 
 
 Then, on Sunday morning at high mass, came a peculiar thing. 
 At the end of the service, for a recessional, the organist far up in the 
 loft touched his keys, and through this old Catholic church in an ob- 
 scure village in Puerto Eico there sounded "The Star-Spangled Banner." 
 The variations improvised were beautiful. The melody itself was kept 
 a little in the background, obscured a bit by the florid music that 
 accompanied it, but it was there beyond a doubt. Perhaps the Spanish 
 worshipers did not recognize the unfamiliar strains for what they were. 
 But the Americans did. All over the church there were American 
 soldiers and officers who had been present as worshipers or specta- 
 tors. When the identity of the music came to them, there were heads 
 uplifted and brightening eyes and glances of recognition that meant 
 a great deal. 
 
 I hunted up the old padre and asked him about it. 
 
 "Yes," he said, "it was intentional. I asked the organist in the 
 morning if he knew the American national hymn. He said that he 
 did, so I asked him to play it as a recessional. I thought it would please 
 the Americans." 
 
 The cathedral of San Juan is a rambling old building, far from 
 artistic in its architecture, but picturesque from without and with 
 many interesting things within. Its organ is a fine one. Various 
 relics are shown with pride and reverence. One of 
 
 them is the body f a Roman soldier > miraculously 
 OF SAN JUAN, preserved without human agency and without change 
 for several hundred years. A treasured image of the 
 Virgin Mary is attired in a dress of golden cloth said to be of enor- 
 mous value. Some of the chapels and shrines are of considerable 
 artistic merit and some good antique paintings are shown. The offer- 
 ings of "ex votos" are by no means as numerous or peculiar as in similar 
 churches in Mexico. Like them, there are but few benches or seats of
 
 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 445 
 
 any sort, and those of the congregation who wish to be seated make 
 it a practice to bring chairs or camp-stools of some sort with them. 
 The high mass w r hich I attended at the cathedral was celebrated with 
 much reverential ceremony and the congregation entered into the 
 service with apparent zeal. But the numbers were few and those 
 mostly women and girls. 
 
 Schools have had rather more attention in the island than one 
 might expect, and the people who care for such things are proud of 
 the fact. Nevertheless they recognize that many things have to be 
 improved, a compulsory education law being one of 
 the first essentials. For the administration of tlie DETAILS OF 
 schools the island is divided into two wards, called SCHOOL SYSTEM. 
 north and south respectively. Altogether there are 
 551 schools, of which 510 are public and the remainder private insti- 
 tutions. Of these, 403 are for boys and 148 for girls. Altogether there 
 are in attendance pupils to the number of 27,938, of whom 19,074 are 
 boys and 8,864 are girls. The neglect to take advantage of what schools 
 there are, is shown by the fact that, according to the last census, there 
 are 65,365 boys of school age in the island and 60,330 girls. In 1897 
 the island spent on its schools a total of 332,367 pesos. 
 
 In the island cabinet, under the autonomous government which 
 was granted by Spain too late to save the colony, there is a minister 
 of education and public works under whose special care the schools 
 are intended to be. The organization is not a complicated one, for, 
 though strange terms are used in the nomenclature, they are arranged 
 in grades quite similar to our own. There are, first, the primary 
 schools, for children less than five years of age. Next come the auxil- 
 iary schools, and then the elemental, or grammar, grades. The high 
 school is called the superior school. These divisions are pretty well 
 maintained in the cities, but in the country the "rurales" are schools 
 which contain all the grades in one, just as our little white schoolhouse 
 does at home in the north. 
 
 It is an index of many other conditions of the island to know that 
 in the schools there is no association of the sexes, girls and boys being 
 taught in different places altogether. Not only are there no mixed 
 schools, but boys are always taught by men and girls by women teach-
 
 446 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 ers. The only exception to this is that children under five years go 
 
 to mixed schools, and the teachers of those schools are women. Chil- 
 
 dren of the poor, who are unable to pay the cost of 
 
 SEPARATION tuition and school books, are not charged for either 
 
 OJ? 
 
 IN THE SCHOOLS. ^ ^ uese - But they are required to bring to the school 
 a certificate from the mayor of the town, stating 
 the condition as to their means. The school law provides frankly for 
 the two classes under the words "rich" and "poor." I find that 4,868 
 of the children in school are classified as "los pobres," and, conse- 
 quently, do not have to pay for books or tuition. All others pay tuition 
 for their education instead of school taxes, this being the way in which 
 the system is supported. 
 
 After the young folks finish the work of the superior schools, 
 which do not carry them as high as do our high schools by at least two 
 years' work, there remains for them in Puerto Kico but one thing 
 higher the institute. The government supports a collegiate institute 
 in the capital, which, from all I can learn, seems to be a very good 
 school. It gives to its graduates the degree of B. A., but that degree 
 does not mean as much education as it is presumed to mean in an 
 American college. It would be, perhaps, a fair com- 
 
 fi^TTf < * fTOX 
 
 parison to say that it indicates studies about on a 
 
 YOUNG WOMEN. ^ evG ^ with those of the sophomore year in a college 
 at home. The entering class each year usually num- 
 bers about 100 students, and the graduating class, after four years' 
 study, usually turns out from fifteen to twenty with the degree. But 
 three young women ever have graduated from the institute, though the 
 course is open to men and women alike, on equal terms. The three 
 who graduated were much admired for their persistency, for, as my 
 informant put it, "Girls do not care much about such things in this 
 island." 
 
 The course of study requires that the student shall take one mod- 
 ern language French, German or English, as he may elect. Most 
 of the graduates whom I met had chosen French, and now are regret- 
 ting the fact that they did not learn English. Among the branches 
 taught are Latin and Greek, chemistry, geology, botany, physics, 
 algebra, geometry and history. The sciences are taught in rather ele-
 
 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 447 
 
 mental fashion, however, as the institute is not very well provided w r ith 
 laboratory facilities. A tuition fee of two and one-half pesos a year 
 for each branch studied is charged in the institute. 
 
 The usual age of students at graduation is 18 or 19 years. If they 
 desire education beyond that point, they must go abroad for it, as 
 Puerto Rico offers nothing more. Spanish universities receive most 
 of those who seek to be physicians or lawyers. Medical degrees from 
 colleges in the United States have not been recognized in the island and 
 did not give the right to practice, which of course barred them out. The 
 legal education one would get in an American university would be of 
 little service in practice in Puerto Rico as the courts have been or- 
 ganized. Students in dentistry go always to the United States, and in 
 San Juan the American dentist is at the top as truly as he is in London 
 or Australia. I found two young men w r ho had graduated in dental 
 schools in the north, both of them thoroughly competent, and employing 
 the most modern methods. Students of engineering and kindred pro- 
 fessions almost all go to the United States for their 
 
 education and rank high when they return. There TECHMCAL STU ' 
 
 DENTS LN THE 
 has been no false notion here about the excellence of jjMTED STATES. 
 
 American schools. My friend did the young women 
 of the island some injustice as to their desire for education. Many of 
 them have gone to the United States to attend school, and the advantage 
 they have had is recognized frankly among their friends. 
 
 The church schools have been included in the foregoing statistics, in 
 which they do not form as large a part as the general impression has it. 
 Roman Catholic sisters teaeh some of the girls' schools and* that is about 
 all. But there is a priests' college for the instruction of candidates for 
 the priesthood. I am told that it has been a frequent practice for young- 
 men to enter this institution for the purpose of becoming priests, remain 
 long enough to get their education, and then leave without entering the 
 ministry. The church does not dominate th schools here as fully as it 
 does in Cuba. 
 
 In the other cities of the island they are not so well provided, but 
 in the capital city there is an excellent public library of several thou- 
 sand volumes, well selected and well arranged, with good reading room 
 and facilities for consulting the books. It has little recent literature
 
 448 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 
 
 except Spanish and French. But the historical collections are very 
 good in all languages, and no doubt the savant who 
 TREASURES OF mignt burrow there sufficiently would find in the ob- 
 BOOK STORES. scur est shelves some treasure of early Spanish printing 
 or one of the first editions of famous maps and voy- 
 ages into the Spanish main, if indeed there Avere not Caxtons. It is 
 worth the search of some one who has time and patience. The book 
 shops of the island, too, would repay a scrutiny. They are numerous 
 and well kept, with excellent stocks of current literature in Spanish, 
 French and German. 
 
 Commerce of Puerto Rico. 
 
 The Estadistica General del Comercio Exterior, Puerto Rico, 1897, 
 gives the following figures (the latest published) in regard to the trade 
 of the island in 1895: 
 
 IMPORTS OF PRINCIPAL ARTICLES. 
 
 Articles Value.* Articles Value.* 
 
 Coal $119,403 Flour $982,222 
 
 Iron 224,206 Vegetables 192,918 
 
 Soap 238,525 Olive oil 327,801 
 
 Meat and lard 1,223,104 Wine 305,656 
 
 Jerked beef 133,616 Cheese 324,137 
 
 Fish 1,591,418 Other provisions 171,322 
 
 Rice 2,180,004 Tobacco (manufactured) 663,464 
 
 EXPORTS OF PRINCIPAL ARTICLES. 
 
 Articles Value.* Articles Value.* 
 
 Coffee ?8,789,788 Sugar $3,747;891 
 
 Tobacco 646,556 Honey 517,746 
 
 The value of the total imports was $16,155,056, against $18,316,971 
 for the preceding year. Tke exports were valued at $14,629,494, against 
 $16,015,665 in 1894. The principal increases in imports, as compared 
 with the preceding year, were in meats, fish, olive oil, and tobacco. De- 
 creases were noted in flour, vegetables, and wine. The exportation of 
 coffee diminished, and that of sugar and honey increased. 
 
 * United States currency.
 
 AMERICAN OPPORTUNITIES IN PUERTO RICO. 449 
 
 the last 
 
 The trade of the United States with Puerto Rico during 
 seven years, as given by United States Treasury figures, was: 
 
 Description. 1891. 1892. 1893. 1894. 1895. 1896. 
 
 Imports: 
 Free ...... $1,856,955 $3,236,337 $3,994,673 $3,126,895 
 
 $375,864 $48,608 
 
 Dutiable .. 1,307,155 
 
 11,670 
 
 13,950 
 
 8,739 1,131,148 2,248,045 
 
 1897. 
 
 $101,711 
 2,079,313 
 
 Total .... 3,164,110 3,248,007 4,008,623 3,135,634 1,506,512 2,296,653 2,181,024 
 
 Exports: 
 Domestic .. 2,112,334 2,808,631 2,502,788 2,705,646 1,820,203 2,080,400 
 
 Foreign 
 
 42,900 
 
 47,372 
 
 7,819 
 
 14,862 
 
 13,341 
 
 21,694 
 
 1,964,850 
 24,038 
 
 Total ... 2,155,234 2,856,003 2,510,607 2,720,508 1,833,544 2,102,094 1,988,888 
 
 The commerce of Spain with Puerto Rico from 1891 to 1896 was: 
 
 Description. 1891. 1892. 1893. 1894. 1895. 1896. 
 
 Imports from Puerto Rico $3,260,650 $4,428,891 $4,108,654 $4,164,964 $5,824,694 $5,423,760 
 
 Exports to Puerto Rico 3,305,243 3,929,186 4,653,023 5,535,027 8,572,549 7,328,880 
 
 The trade of Puerto Rico with other countries of importance in 1895 
 (according to the Estadistica General del Comercio Exterior) was: 
 
 Country. Imports. Exports. 
 
 Cuba $ 808,283 $3,610,936 
 
 England 1,765,574 1,144,555 
 
 France 251,984 1,376,087 
 
 Germany 1,368,595 1,181,396 
 
 Italy 19,619 589,045 
 
 Holland 325,301 3,246 
 
 Denmark 26,565 236,418 
 
 British West Indies 1,709,117 521,649 
 
 Danish West Indies 600 40,434 
 
 French West Indies 55 62,927 
 
 The principal exports in 1896 were: 
 
 Articles. Quantity. Articles. Quantity. 
 
 Sugar tons . . 54,205 Timber tons . . 30 
 
 Coffee do ... 26,655 Molasses do ... 14,740 
 
 Hides do ... 169 Tobacco do ... 1,039 
 
 Cattle head.. 3,178
 
 Book ill 
 
 Cuba.
 
 THE PEARL OF THE "ANTILLES." 
 
 THE greatest island and the greatest city of all the West Indies, 
 discovered by Columbus on his first voyage, are now for the first 
 time looking toward intimate commercial and social relations 
 with the United States of America. It is 380 years since the city of Ha- 
 vana was founded to begin its history of commercial importance. With 
 mflre than 200,000 population and enormous mercan- 
 tile interests, the city has been considered the capital 'S^ v^rv* E 
 
 "J: JlA Y Ai^lA. 
 
 of all Spain's West Indian colonial possessions and TO SPAIN. 
 of consequence to the peninsular kingdom no less 
 for its strategic and defensive value than for its commerce. It was 
 through centuries of Spanish misrule, warfare and oppression, that 
 the island and the capital of Cuba reached their proud station. The 
 "Spanish main" was the scene of strife for hundreds of years after the 
 first voyage of Columbus, between those nations jealous of the riches 
 which were to be won from the natives who peopled the islands and 
 the coasts of the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico. Now, after insur- 
 rection, there has come peace, with a promise of prosperity to rest 
 upon the island of Cuba, the fruits of which shall go to those who 
 earn them instead of those who prey upon them. 
 
 The island of Cuba is our next-door neighbor to the south, just 
 within the north torrid zone, and within a few hours' run of the ports 
 of Florida. In latitude, climate, physical characteristics and resources 
 it has many things in kindred with the other islands of our new pos- 
 sessions, the Philippines, Puerto Rico and Hawaii. The meridian of 
 Washington crosses the island at its widest part, about 250 miles east 
 of Havana and 200 miles west of Cape Maysi, the most eastern point 
 
 455
 
 456 "THE PEARL OF THE ANTILLES." 
 
 of Cuba. Havana is a trifle north of Honolulu and on almost exactly 
 the same parallel of latitude as Hong Kong and Calcutta. 
 
 Geographically, the island of Cuba is contained between merid- 
 ians 74 and 85 west of Greenwich, the whole length of the island, from 
 Cape Maysi to Cape San Antonio, being about 760 miles. In latitude 
 it extends from a trifle south of 20 to a trifle north of 23 degrees north 
 of the equator. The narrowest part of the island, which is in the 
 vicinity of Havana, measures but thirty miles, while at the widest 
 part, measured north and south through the city of Manzanillo, its 
 breadth is 125 miles. The island is nearly as long, therefore, as an air 
 line from New York City to Chicago. 
 
 The geographical location of the cities of Havana and Santiago 
 de Cuba makes them of great service in dominating commerce in south- 
 ern waters. Vessels from the Atlantic ports of the 
 CUBA Lu> ITIES United States and all European countries tradmg 
 OCEAX COMMERCE, with Mexico and the cities of the Gulf of Mexico, 
 pass the very door of Havana. Santiago is equally 
 serviceable as a, port on the southern side of the island for vessels 
 sailing from our Atlantic ports to Central America, Panama, and the 
 north coast of South America. With Cuba under our commercial influ- 
 ence and Puerto Eico in our possession, we shall be able to dominate 
 the commerce of the Caribbean and the Gulf. The completion of the 
 Nicaragua canal will be the final stroke to guarantee our prominence 
 in those waters. 
 
 From Havana to Key West, the nearest port of the United States, 
 the distance is but ninety miles, and to Port Tampa on the mainland 
 of Florida, less than 300 miles. From Havana the distance to New 
 Orleans is 600 miles, to Galveston 800, to Vera Cruz 800, to New York 
 1,300, and to San Juan de Puerto Eico about 1,000 miles. From San- 
 tiago to Port Antonio, in the British island of Jamaica, it is but 100 
 miles, and to the Mole St. Nicholas in the republic of Haiti but a little 
 more than that distance. From Santiago to Greytown, the entrance to 
 the Nicaragua canal, it is but 700 miles and about the same distance to 
 Colon, the initial point of the Panama railway. 
 
 It is impossible to know at this writing what will be the ultimate 
 solution of the political relationships between the United States of
 
 TOMB OF COLUMBUS IN THE CATHEDRAL OF HAVANA 
 
 The burial place of Christopher Columbus has been disputed for many years, between the 
 city of Santo Domingo and Havana. Each claimant has many supporters. One of the last acts of 
 Spanish authority in Cuba was to remove the bones which purported to be those of the great discov- 
 erer from their sepulchre and convey them to Spain for re-interment on Spanish soil.
 
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 "THE PEARL OF THE ANTILLES." 461 
 
 America and the island of Cuba. The primary fact is that Cuba will 
 no longer be under the dominance of the obsolete power of Spain. 
 After three years of insurrection and a summer's campaign by Amer- 
 ican forces, the island has been freed. Now it must work out its own 
 problems of government, with the friendly aid and admonition of the 
 United States to assist. It is manifest destiny that the commerce and 
 the progress of the island shall follow American 
 channels and adopt American forms. Sentiment and 
 proximity alike point to that conclusion. How inti- IN CUBA. 
 mate the political affiliation may be, it is too soon 
 to know. Already American capital and energy are flowing into the 
 island to develop its remarkable latent wealth and resources. Within 
 the next few years it should have a measure of progress scarcely con- 
 ceivable at this time. There are opportunities for many Americans, 
 waiting to be utilized in the "Pearl of the Antilles." 
 
 There is no phase of information about the island of Cuba that 
 fails of interest. Its history from the very days of discovery is full 
 of romance. The description of its resources and its physical condi- 
 tions, phrased in the simplest terms, is a surprising array of enter- 
 taining and picturesque facts. If one looks to the future, romance 
 and interest multiply and the subject becomes one for the most exub- 
 erant prophecies. It is of this island that the following chapters are to 
 treat.
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 
 
 Bones of Columbus Removed from Havana to Spain Injustice to the Explorer How 
 Spain Gained and Lost a Magnificent Colonial Empire Aborigines of Cuba a 
 Tractable People Columbus Enchanted with the Beauties of the Island 
 Progress of Settlement in Cuba Founding of Havana A Letter from the 
 Great Discoverer. 
 
 ONE of the last official acts of Spain, in abandoning her rule in 
 Cuba, was to remove from the resting-place in Havana cathe- 
 dral, where they had lain for many years, the bones which pur- 
 ported to be those of Christopher Columbus, the famous discoverer of the 
 island which was their proudest colonial possession. It is impossible to 
 ignore the sentimental side of the loss of Cuba to the Spanish. They 
 yielded to the strength of the very American nation, which was born 
 as a result of the pioneer voyages of that explorer, who began his 
 discoveries under Spanish auspices. Cuba and Columbus are names 
 inseparably connected. This largest and most fruitful island of the 
 Spanish main was discovered by the great navigator himself, on the 
 28th day of October, 1492, only a short time after his first landing 
 upon the soil of the western hemisphere on the island of San Salva- 
 dor. There is a sentimental association to Americans in the thought 
 that the discovery of our own continent was due to the expeditions 
 
 sent from Spain. But any regret in one's mind that 
 
 si* \\ISH 
 
 animosities have arisen between the two nations, 
 
 TO COLUMBUS, may be mollified by the memory that Columbus him- 
 self was an Italian, that it had required years of his 
 efforts to induce sufficient interest on the part of Spanish monarchs 
 to father his undertaking, and that his life in the service of Spain 
 was marred by the basest ingratitude on the part of those whom he 
 had served. 
 
 402
 
 'A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 463 
 
 Upon the handsome monument erected to the memory of Colum- 
 bus in Seville by Ferdinand and Isabella, is the simple inscription, 
 "A Castile y Leon, nuevo mundo dio Colon" "to Castile and Leon, 
 Columbus gave a new world." 
 
 This was the tardy recognition granted to the discoverer by those 
 to whom he had made the marvelous gift. Eecognition had been 
 denied him in his life, except after years of persistent urging, second 
 only to those years he wasted in his effort to arouse Spanish interest 
 and enterprise. Once he was removed from his West Indian governor- 
 ship and returned to Spain in chains. The titles and honors which had 
 been promised him before, were denied after he had earned them. 
 He was a victim of foul ingratitude, and no American need permit 
 sentiment to blind him for the sake of Columbus. 
 
 The splendid new world which Columbus gave to Spain, was the 
 most marvelous addition of territory that has ever come into the pos- 
 session of any nation upon earth. It included the whole of South Amer- 
 ica, except Brazil, which was acquired by Portugal, and the small col- 
 onies known as British, Dutch and French Guiana. It included the 
 whole of Central America and Mexico. It included the w T hole of what 
 is now the United States west of the Mississippi river. It included the 
 whole of the coast of the Gulf of Mexico and the pen- 
 
 VVIJAT 1 CT>AT1W 
 
 insula of Florida to the southern limit of Alabama ^ 1TV iV 
 
 wAliMlil) AIM! 
 
 and Georgia, and except for a few scattered islands, NOW HAS LOST, 
 it included every foot of land in the Gulf of Mexico 
 and the Caribbean sea, all the coral rocks, as well as the greater islands 
 of the West Indies and the Antilles. To-day not a foot of all that 
 enormous possession remains to Spain. These hundreds of thousands 
 of square miles are inhabited by a free and peaceful people, most of 
 them as republics, and the few exceptions under civilized and liberal 
 colonial policies. Spain could not preserve the gifts of Columbus. 
 
 The logic of events and the progress of civilization have com- 
 manded that Spain should withdraw from her possessions in the west- 
 ern hemisphere. Never has there been such a record of ferocity and 
 barbarity in conquest as that which blackens the pages of Spanish 
 history in connection with Spain's acquisition and subjection of her 
 newly discovered territories. Whether it was the peaceful Indians of
 
 464 A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 
 
 the Antilles, the highly civilized Aztecs of Mexico, or the Incas of Peru, 
 the policy pursued was always the same. First, treacherous friendship, 
 then robbery and massacre, then slavery, and finally extermination, 
 was the unvarying programme. And so, instead of winning favor and 
 loyalty with their consequent happiness and prosperity from the native 
 tribes, Spanish conquerors implanted in the possessors of the country 
 an overmastering and ineradicable hatred, which grew with associa- 
 tion, until in colony after colony the bonds were burst by violence. 
 
 When Great Britain lost her American colonies by reason of her 
 misgovernment and oppression of them, it was a lesson which her peo- 
 ple never forgot. From that day, the colonial policy of the British gov- 
 ernment was altered, and the spirit of liberality and generosity began 
 to dominate. To-day, every colony of Great Britain that enjoys repre- 
 sentative government Canada, Australia, Cape Colony and many 
 others, owes to the United States the liberty which Great Britain 
 grants. 
 
 But Spain could learn no such lessons. Her cruelty and misgov- 
 ernment aroused colony after colony to rebellion ending in freedom, 
 but her policies remained unaltered. One by one possessions of fabu- 
 lous wealth dropped away until at last this old crone of nations has 
 been left to shiver alone by her fireside, abandoned in her misery by 
 all the children whose memory of her is nothing but that of vicious 
 cruelty. The only pity to which Spain is entitled, is the pity that is 
 due for her ignorance and her mistakes, not pity for the penalties that 
 these have brought upon her. 
 
 Spain was once the intellectual leader of the world, as well as the 
 pioneer of discovery. Spanish universities were centers of learning 
 long before northern Europe had its intellectual birth. Spanish mari- 
 ners sailed every sea and Spanish adventurers explored every land. If 
 learning and advancement bring obligations, as they 
 
 WHF\ SPAIN 
 
 WAS are a(lmitte(1 to &<>, it was Spain's obligation to be a 
 
 A GREAT NATION, leader in strife for liberty of mind and body, but the 
 two most notable things in her history are the Span- 
 ish inquisition against freedom of thought, and the Spanish ferocities 
 which enslaved a new world for many a year. Now she has reaped the 
 harvest of her own misdeeds.
 
 A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 405 
 
 Every one knows that Columbus was not looking for a western 
 hemisphere, but for the Orient, and that when he found Cuba he be- 
 lieved he had reached the East Indies and the islands of gold and spice 
 which had been reported from that mysterious land. His first island 
 discoveries he believed to be the outlying portions of that eastern archi- 
 pelago and when the natives told him of a greater land near by, which 
 he reached a few days later, he believed that at last he had reached 
 Cipaugo, as Japan then was called. 
 
 The first name given to the island w r as Juana, in honor of Prince 
 Juan, the son of Ferdinand and Isabella of Aragon and Castile. After 
 Ferdinand's death, in his honor the name was changed to Fernandina. 
 Still later it received the name of Santiago, as a mark of reverence for 
 the patron saint of Spain, and another change was made a few years 
 afterward, when the inhabitants, as a proof of their piety, called it 
 Ave Maria, in honor of the Hoi}* Virgin. In spite of all this effort at 
 establishing a Spanish name, the original Indian name of Cuba, which 
 it bore when the great navigator first landed on its shores, has asserted 
 itself triumphantly through all the centuries and is now ineradicable. 
 
 Aboriginal Inhabitants of Cuba, 
 
 According to the accounts given by Spanish writers who were con- 
 temporary with the discovery, and the century immediately following, 
 the aboriginal inhabitants of Cuba were a generous, gentle, hospitable' 
 people, by no means energetic, but heartily cordial and courteous to 
 the strangers who reached their shores. The mildness of their climate 
 did not stimulate them to much activity in cultivation of the soil, be- 
 cause tropical fruits and vegetables came with scarcely an effort on the 
 part of the natives. Their implements and utensils were crude and 
 their life simple. 
 
 The system of government was by no means complicated. The is- 
 land was divided into nine independent principalities, each under a 
 Cacique, all living in harmony, and warfare being almost unknown. 
 Their religion was a peaceful one, without human sacrifices or cannibal- 
 ism, but the priests had great power through their pretense of influence 
 with spirits good and evil. 
 
 Of all the people discovered by the Spanish in their colonization
 
 466 A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 
 
 of the western hemisphere, the Cubans were the most tractable to the 
 influences of Christianity so far as their willingness to accept the doc- 
 trines was concerned. Christianity, as practiced by 
 KIG t^T < ; T ? ANS the Spanish conquerors, was scarcely that of the high- 
 
 1O1A.L.LY 
 
 EXTERMINATED, est type of the faith, and the inducements to accept it 
 were somewhat violent. Nevertheless it must be 
 noted that it is from Spanish sources this testimony as to the docility 
 of the Cuban natives comes. Under these circumstances it becomes a 
 magnified crime that the Spanish conquerors absolutely exterminated 
 the hundreds of thousands of native Cubans whom they found at the 
 time of the discovery, and that within little more than a century there 
 was absolutely not a trace of native stock to be found anywhere in the 
 island. 
 
 When Columbus first rested his eyes on the island of Cuba it 
 seemed to him an enchanted land. He was charmed with its lofty 
 mountains, its beautiful rivers, and its blossoming groves, and in his 
 account of the voyage he said: "Everything is green as April in An- 
 dalusia. The singing of the birds is such that it seems as if one would 
 never desire to depart. There are flocks of parrots that obscure the 
 sun. There are trees of a thousand species, each having its particular 
 fruit, and all of marvelous flavor." 
 
 Columbus was first of the opinion that he had found an island, but 
 after following the shores for many miles he concluded that it was a 
 continent. He retained the latter belief until his death, for it was not 
 until 1508 that the island was circumnavigated, when it was discovered 
 that it was of about the same area as England. In a subsequent expe- 
 dition he reached the coast of South America, but he had no apprecia- 
 tion of the magnitude of that continent, and to him Cuba was the 
 grandest of his discoveries in the New World. 
 
 Cuba was twice visited by Columbus after its discovery, in April, 
 1494, and again in 1502, and these visits but confirmed his first opinion 
 regarding the salubrity of the climate and the wealth of the soil. His 
 sailors wrested from the natives large sums of gold and silver, and 
 this led to the mistaken belief that mines of great richness were with- 
 in their grasp. 
 
 Biography furnishes no parallel to the life of Columbus. Great
 
 A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 467 
 
 men there have been who have met with injustice and disappoint- 
 ments, but there is perhaps no other instance of a man whom disap- 
 pointments and injustice did not dishearten and disgust, who had 
 his greatness recognized in his lifetime, and yet was robbed of the re- 
 wards that it entitled him to. 
 
 It is probable that before his death Columbus confided his belief 
 in the wealth to be found in Cuba to his son Diego Columbus, for in 
 1511 the latter fitted out an expedition for the purpose of colonizing 
 the island. This company consisted of about 300 men, under Diego 
 Velasquez, who had accompanied the great explorer on his second 
 voyage. The first settlement was made at Baracoa, in the extreme 
 eastern section, and this village w r as regarded as the capital of the 
 colony for several years. In the meantime extensive 
 settlements had been made by the Spaniards in the 
 island of Jamaica, and in 1514 the towns of Santiago KJ CUBA. 
 and Trinidad were founded on the southern coast of 
 Cuba, in order that the inhabitants of the two colonies might be 
 brought into closer communication. As immigration increased, other 
 towns of importance sprang up, and the island became the base for 
 the various operations against Mexico. Baracoa grew largely in pop- 
 ulation, and the towns of Puerto Principe and Sancti Espiritus were 
 established in the central section, and San Juan de los Remedios on 
 the north coast. In July, 1515, the city of San' Cristobal de la Habana 
 was planted, deriving its name from the great discoverer, but this 
 name was transferred in 1519 to the present capital, and the original 
 town was called Batabano. 
 
 In 1518 the capital was fixed at Baracoa, w T hich had by this time 
 become a city of considerable importance and the diocese of the col- 
 ony. In 1522 both the seat of government and the bishopric were re- 
 moved to Santiago de Cuba. In 1538 Havana was reduced to ashes by 
 a French privateer, and to prevent a similar disaster in future, the 
 Castillo de la Fuerza, a fortress which still exists, was built by Fer- 
 nando de Soto, governor of Cuba, and afterwards famous for his ex- 
 plorations in the southern and western portions of North America, as 
 well as for the discovery of the Mississippi. 
 
 Using a modern expression, this great fortress, added to her almost
 
 468 A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 
 
 perfect harbor, gave Havana a wonderful "boom," and the city expe- 
 rienced a remarkable growth. The Spanish merchantmen were ac- 
 tively employed in carrying the wealth of Mexico to the Peninsula, and 
 Havana was a convenient port for them to secure supplies of provis- 
 ions and water. In 1549 Gonzales Perez de Angulo was appointed 
 governor of the island, and he was so impressed with the beauties of 
 the city, that he chose it as his residence. Several of his successors fol- 
 lowed his example, and in 1589 it was legally made the capital of Cuba. 
 The early records of the island were kept in so imperfect a manner 
 that it is not possible to give an accurate account of the early govern- 
 ors and their lieutenants. It is certain, however, that the seat of gov- 
 ernment was at Santiago de Cuba, and that Havana and other towns 
 of minor importance were ruled by lieutenants. In 1538 Hernando 
 de Soto, adelantado of Florida, and also governor of 
 FAMOUS NAMES Cub ^ landed at Santiago, and remained a few days 
 
 J..N 
 
 CUBAN HISTORY, before proceeding to the mainland. On his departure 
 he left the government of the island in charge of a 
 lady, Dona Isabel de Bobadilla, and gave her for a colleague Don 
 Juan de Eojas, who had at one time been lieutenant governor of Ha- 
 vana. It is from this date that the gradual transference of the seat of 
 power from Santiago to Havana may be said to have arisen. 
 
 Don Antonio de Chavez assumed the government in 1547, and he 
 it was who gave Havana its first regular supply of water, bringing it 
 a distance of about six miles from the river Chorrera. 
 
 The early settlers devoted themselves principally to the raising of 
 cattle, paying very little attention to agricultural pursuits, or in fact 
 to any means of livelihood that called for manual labor. Much time 
 and money were wasted in explorations for gold and silver, but these 
 were invariably unsuccessful, for while the precious metals have oc- 
 casionally been found in the island, the quantity has never been suffi- 
 cient to repay the labor of the search. 
 
 .Nothing more interesting for the conclusion of this chapter can be 
 offered than Columbus' own account of his first view of the island of 
 Cuba. It is as follows: 
 
 "When I reached Juann, I followed its coast to the westward, and 
 found it so large that I thought it must be mainland, the province of
 
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 A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 471 
 
 Cathay; and as I found neither towns nor villages on the sea coast, but 
 only some hamlets, with the inhabitants of which I could not hold con- 
 versation, because they all immediately fled, I kept on the same route, 
 thinking that I could not fail to light upon some large cities or towns. 
 At length, after the proceeding of many leagues, and finding that noth- 
 ing new presented itself, and that the coast was leading me northwards 
 (which I wished to avoid, because the winter had already set in, and 
 it was my intention to move southwards; and because moreover the 
 winds were contrary), I resolved not to wait for a 
 change in the weather, but to return to a certain har- WHA JJ?? T BUS 
 
 IHULwHl a 
 
 bor which I had remarked, and from which I sent two OF CUBA. 
 men ashore to ascertain whether there was any king 
 or large cities in that part. They journeyed for three days, and found 
 countless small hamlets, with numberless inhabitants, but with noth- 
 ing like order; they therefore returned. In the meantime I had 
 learned from some other Indians, whom I had seized, that this land 
 was certainly an island; accordingly, I followed the coast eastward 
 for a distance of 107 leagues, where it ended in a cape. From this cape 
 I saw another island to the eastward, at a distance of eighteen leagues 
 from the former, to which I gave the name of La Espanola. Thither I 
 went and followed its northern coast (just the same as I had done with 
 the coast of Juana), 118 full miles due east. This island, like all 
 others, is extraordinarily large, and this one extremely so. In it are 1 
 many seaports, with which none that I know in Christendom can bear 
 comparison, so good and capacious that it is a wonder to see. The 
 lands are high, and there are many lofty mountains, with which the 
 islands of Teneriffe cannot be compared. They are all most beautiful, 
 of a thousand different shapes, accessible, and covered with trees of 
 a thousand kinds, of such great height that they seem to reach the 
 skies. I am told that the trees never lose their foliage, and I can well 
 understand it, for I observed that they were as green and luxuriant as 
 in Spain in the month of May. Some TV ere in bloom, others bearing 
 fruit, and others otherwise, according to their nature. The nightin- 
 gale w r as singing, as well as other little birds of a thousand different 
 kinds, and that in November, the month in which I was roaming 
 amongst them. There are palm trees of six or eight kinds, wonderful
 
 472 A GLANCE AT CUBAN HISTORY. 
 
 in their beautiful variety; but this is the case with all other trees and 
 fruits and grasses. It contains extraordinary pin,e groves and very 
 extensive plains. There is also honey and a great variety of birds, and 
 many different kinds of fruits. In the interior there are many mines 
 of metals, and a population innumerable." 
 
 No one can be absolutely certain where the bones of the great dis- 
 coverer, Christopher Columbus, now rest. What purported to be his 
 remains had been removed from Santo Domingo many years ago by the 
 Spanish for interment in Havana. But other excavations in Santo 
 Domingo at a later time seemed to prove conclusively that the coffin 
 thus removed was not that of Columbus. What was identified as his 
 own coffin was found in a neighboring tomb and according to the people 
 of Santo Domingo, and the best students of such affairs, still remains in 
 that city. 
 
 The casket purporting to contain the ashes of Columbus was re- 
 ceived in Spain with great honor and given interment there. Cubans 
 and Americans alike can well afford to permit Spain any sentimental 
 satisfaction she may get out of her conviction that the dust of the great 
 explorer rests in Spanish soil.
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER. 
 
 How Spain Gained Her Hold on Cuba Failing Efforts to Change the Indian Name 
 of the Island First Settlement Made by the Spaniards When Santiago Was 
 the Capital Rapid Increase of the Population and Commerce The First Ameri- 
 can Siege of Havana Disastrous Losses in the British Army and Navy Cap- 
 ture of the City Restoration of Cuba to the Spaniards When Oppression and 
 Misrule Multiplied The Slave Trade Flourishing The Beginning of Insurrec- 
 tions The Ten Years' War The Murder of the Students The Treaty of Zanjon 
 The Coming of Weyler. 
 
 THE history of Cuba, from the time of its discovery to the day when 
 Spain surrendered by compulsion her claim to the island, has 
 been one long record of oppression and crime. The peaceful in- 
 habitants who were in possession when the explorers first touched the 
 soil were slaughtered and enslaved, and this w r as the commencement of a 
 rule where might was master, and a government that claimed all and 
 gave nothing in return. For over 400 years Spain retained her hold oft 
 this beautiful land, and by her short sighted policy of oppression she 
 succeeded in bringing misery and death, not only to the original in- 
 habitants, but also to the descendants of her own people, who, under 
 kindlier rule, would have been loyal subjects of the crown. 
 
 Juana was the name given to the island of Cuba at the time of its 
 discovery by Columbus. This was in honor of Prince John, the son of 
 Ferdinand and Isabella, under whose patronage the great navigator 
 made the voyages which resulted in giving to Spain new countries to 
 conquer and new peoples to despoil. When the Spanish began to col- 
 onize the island, they changed its name to Fernandina, 
 and again a few years later to Santiago. After- c THE NAME 
 wards, probably to demonstrate their great piety, THE INDIANS. 
 they called it Ave Maria. But while the conquer- 
 ors succeeded eventually in obliterating all trace of the original 
 
 473
 
 474 FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER. 
 
 inhabitants, the Indian name still clings to the island, and as Cuba 
 it will probably be known to the end of time. 
 
 The Spanish explorers found in Cuba a race of inoffensive and 
 friendly people, who received them with every mark of confidence and 
 regard. They took possession of the island, murdered and enslaved the 
 inhabitants, and in little more than a century from the time of the land- 
 ing of Columbus, the adventurers who followed him had waged a war of 
 extermination so successfully that in all Cuba there was hardly a native 
 to be found. 
 
 The first permanent settlement made by the Spaniards was at the 
 town of Baracoa, not far from the extreme eastern point of the island, 
 and for many years this settlement was regarded as the capital of the 
 colony. In 1514 the towns of Trinidad and Santiago de Cuba w r ere 
 founded on the south coast, and in 1522 the seat of government was 
 removed to the last named city, which by this time had greatly increased 
 in population and wealth, and was the metropolis of the island. A 
 settlement was made where the town of Batabano now stands, in 1515, 
 and was called San Cristobal de la Havana, in honor of the great dis- 
 coverer, but four years later the name was transferred to the city on the 
 north coast which is now the capital. 
 
 The island increased rapidly in population, the wonderful fertility 
 of the soil, and the unlimited opportunities for acquiring wealth making 
 it a Mecca for thousands of emigrants from the mother country. During 
 the time of the conquest of Mexico, Havana was an outfitting point for 
 the expeditions, and immense profits were realized from the sale of pro- 
 visions and supplies for the army of invasion. 
 
 During the early history of the island, the cities of the coast suf- 
 fered great losses from the continual and determined attacks of pirates, 
 whose ships infested the West Indian waters. At ono time Santiago 
 was almost depopulated on account of the depreda- 
 
 DEPREDATIONS ti(ms ()f th(?so royers ()f fh(? geag> j n j uly> 17G2j tue 
 
 BUCCANEERS English Armada, commanded by Lord Albemarle and 
 Admiral Pococke, appeared off the coast of Cuba with 
 an armament of nineteen ships of the line, six frigates and nearly 200 
 transports and slave ships. The object of the expedition was the cap- 
 ture of the citv of Havana.
 
 FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER. 475 
 
 James Trumbull, in his "History of Connecticut," gives the follow- 
 ing account of the siege of the city, and incidentally mentions the part 
 taken by American soldiers in the war: 
 
 Lord Albemarle was appointed to command the operations by land. 
 His lordship had been trained to war from his youth, under the com- 
 mand of the duke of Cumberland. The fleet destined for the service 
 was under command of Admiral Pococke, who had before commanded 
 with such success in the East Indies. The object of the expedition was 
 Havana. In this city centered the whole trade and navigation of the 
 Spanish West Indies. The fleet sailed from Portsmouth on the 5th of 
 March. This was to be reinforced by a squadron from Martinique, 
 under command of Sir James Douglass. On the 27th of May two fleets 
 formed a junction at Cape Nichola, the northwest point of Hispaniola. 
 The fleet consisted of thirty-seven ships of war, with nearly, an hundred 
 and fifty transports. The land force on board was about ten thousand 
 men. Four thousand regular troops from New York were ordered to 
 join them at the Havana. A considerable number of provincials en- 
 listed under their own officers and served in this arduous enterprise. 
 The whole land force, when collected, would amount to about fifteen or 
 sixteen thousand men. 
 
 The admiral was not insensible how much the success of the expedi- 
 tion depended on dispatch, that it might be carried into execution before 
 the coming on of the hurricane months. Therefore, 
 instead of keeping the common track of the galleons DA3I 1 S?J^' IJ 
 
 (jAUOjN 1O 
 
 to the north of Cuba, which was much the safest, REACH HAVANA. 
 though far the most tedious passage, he determined to 
 pursue his course from east to west, through the Straits of Bahama. 
 This is a narrow passage, about seven hundred miles in length. It is 
 bounded on the right and left with so many shoals and sands that the 
 navigation is dangerous for single ships. Yet such were the cautions 
 and admirable dispositions of the admiral that he carried this fleet of 
 nearly two hundred sail safely through this perilous passage. On the 
 5th of June, Havana, the object of this long voyage, and of so many 
 anxious hopes and fears, presented itself to the view of the fleet and 
 army. On the 17th the troops were landed, and for more than two 
 months every exertion of courage, every art of war, with the most in-
 
 476 FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER. 
 
 vincible patience and perseverance, under almost insuperable diffi- 
 culties, were unitedly employed by officers and soldiers, by the fleet and 
 army, for the reduction of this important island. The fortresses were 
 strong by nature and art. The enemy made a gallant and noble defense. 
 The climate was burning, and the want of water great and almost insuf- 
 ferably distressing. Never were British valor and resolution put to a 
 severer trial. Some of the soldiers dropped down dead, under the 
 pressure of heat, thirst and fatigue. Before the middle of July the 
 army, in this unwholesome and burning region, and under the rigor of 
 such extraordinary services, was reduced to half its original numbers. 
 Five thousand soldiers and three thousand seamen were ill at one time. 
 The hearts of the most sanguine sunk within them while they saw this 
 fine army wasting by disease, and they could not but tremble for that 
 noble fleet which had so long been exposed along the open shore and 
 must, in all human probability, suffer inevitable ruin should the hurri- 
 cane season come on before the reduction of the place. As the season 
 advanced the prospect grew more and more unfavorable. But when the 
 troops were on the point of total despondency the arrival of troops from 
 North America revived their drooping spirits, gave fresh vigor to their 
 operations, and was of the most signal service. 
 
 Such was the zeal of the New Englanders in his majesty's service, 
 that not only many of them enlisted with a particular view to the reduc- 
 tion of Havana; but such of them as had assisted in 
 J A L J? Z ^r the conquest of Martinique, and by reason of sickness 
 
 OF EARLY AMERI- 
 CAN SOLDIERS. na( ^ Se ^ ff m three ships for their native country for 
 their recovery, soon finding their health restored, or- 
 dered the ships about, and steering directly for Havana, shared in the 
 dangers and honors of that glorious enterprise. 
 
 In the acquisition of Havana were combined all the advantages that 
 could be procured in war. It was a military victory of the first magni- 
 tude; it was equal to the greatest naval victory by its effects on the 
 marine of the Spaniards, who lost on that occasion a whole fleet. The 
 vast quantity of tobacco and sugar collected at Havana on the Spanish 
 monarch's account, sold on the spot, exclusive of the ships and merchan- 
 dise sent to and sold in England, for seven hundred thousand pounds, 
 which was divided amongst the conquerors.
 
 FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER. 477 
 
 Had England pursued the policy at this time which has since made 
 her the greatest nation on the globe, and retained possession of Cuba, 
 the map of the western world, and of North America in particular, 
 would undoubtedly present a different appearance from what it does 
 to-day. But the men who shaped the conduct of Great Britain's affairs 
 at that date did not take advantage of the victory, and the peace treaty 
 of Paris was signed, which gave back to Spain, Cuba and the Philip- 
 pines. 
 
 The peace having been concluded in 17G3, the Conde de Ricla arrived 
 at Havana on the 30th of June, bringing the powers conferred by the 
 treaty for the restoration of the British conquests in the island of Cuba, 
 and accompanied by General O'Reilly, with four ships of the line, a 
 number of transports, and 2,000 men for the supply of the garrison. On 
 their arrival they were received by the English with every demonstra- 
 tion of respect. On the 7th of July the keys of the city were formally 
 delivered up to the Conde de Eicla, on whom the government had been 
 conferred, and the English garrison was embarked on its return to 
 Europe. 
 
 The restoration of the island to the Spaniards is regarded by the 
 native writers as the true era from whence its aggrandizement and pros- 
 perity are to be dated. 
 
 For a time the island was governed in a manner that called for 
 slight criticism. Public assemblies of citizens were held to elect the 
 members of the corporations; free and bold charges 
 
 TVTfFTM 
 
 were made and sustained against governors; and no 
 
 * '. WASHOXESTLY 
 
 taxation was permitted which was not sanctioned by GOVERNED 
 
 these bodies, who exercised the same prerogatives in 
 
 the Spanish peninsula, during the long suspension of representative 
 
 government. 
 
 Cuba, on her part, repaid the liberality of the mother country by an 
 unwavering loyalty. Unsecluced by the alluring prospect of independ- 
 ence, and undismayed by repeated invasions from foreign powers, she 
 shut her eyes to the former and resisted the latter, at the liberal ex- 
 pense of the treasures of the island, and the lives of the inhabitants. 
 But gradually the liberties of the people were curtailed, while the de- 
 mands of their rulers became more and more oppressive. In 183-1
 
 478 FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER. 
 
 General Tacon was appointed captain-general of Cuba, and arrived in 
 Havana to assume the duties of the office. He was one of the Spanish 
 officers who had suffered defeat in the war for the independence of the 
 Spanish colonies in South America, and was a man of narrow views, un- 
 reasonable prejudices, and uncommon stubbornness of character. Dur- 
 ing his term of office he was as severe with the Cubans as he was lenient 
 with the old Spaniards, who alone were appointed to offices of honor 
 and profit under the government. Such a policj- worked out a breach 
 between Cubans and Spaniards, wide enough to prevent them combining 
 against misrule. Taxation grew heavier from 3~ear to year, and Cuban 
 persecution increased, now by summary expulsion of suspected parties, 
 now through trial of others by court-martial, under a royal decree which 
 declared that the king of Spain, "for the important end of preserving in 
 that precious island (Cuba) his legitimate sovereign 
 ABSOLUTE POWER aut]aoritY and p u bii c tranquillity through proper 
 
 CAPTAIN-GENERAL. means > nas resolved, in accordance with the opinion of 
 his council of ministers, to give to your excellency the 
 fullest authority, bestowing upon you all the powers which by royal 
 ordinances are granted to the governors of besieged cities. In conse- 
 quence of this his majesty gives to your excellency the most complete 
 and unbounded power." 
 
 The slave trade continued to flourish between Africa and Cuba, to 
 the great advantage of the Spaniards who controlled that concession, 
 and who, in the face of their enormous profits from it, did not complain 
 of the growing taxation. 
 
 A case of Cuban court-martialing occurred during the year 1844, 
 when, in consequence of the report of a plot among the African slaves 
 of the sugar plantations about Matanzas for a rising against the white 
 people, several officers of the permanent military commission at Ha- 
 vana for the trial of political offences, were detailed to form a court- 
 martial under the presidency of Brigadier-General Salas at Matanzas, 
 in order to trace out the reported plot and punish the culprits. Many 
 persons were arrested and closely examined, but as by the usual mode 
 of examination no clue to the alleged plot was found, the prosecution 
 determined to resort to torture, the unwilling witness being flogged 
 while stretched face downward on a ladder. This process of eliciting
 
 FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER. 479 
 
 evidence, first applied to African slaves, was soon extended to free col- 
 ored Creoles, and then into the circle of white people. Out of 3,07G 
 prisoners placed on trial, 1,846 'were found guilty, and punished by 
 death, banishment, or sentences to hard labor for varying terms. 
 
 This affair was only one of many instances of outrages on the 
 people of Cuba, which finally led up to the insurrections of 1849-1851, 
 and the bloody ten years' war, which commenced in 
 
 18G8. In this latter revolution some of the most hor- BRUTALITY OP 
 .. , . . . THE VOLUNTEER 
 
 rible crimes ever perpetrated by people w r ho claim SOLDIERS. 
 
 connection with a civilized nation were committed by 
 
 the home guards. These were organizations of Spanish residents of the 
 
 island, who volunteered to assist in putting down the insurrection. 
 
 Their first feat of arms at Havana was to fire volley after volley 
 upon the main entrance of a theatre, and on the people as they came 
 out at the end of a play, performed, it was supposed, for the benefit of the 
 insurgents, the performers being Cubans. Their next exploit was an 
 assault upon the residence of a prominent Cuban gentleman, who hap- 
 pened to be away with his family at the time in one of his sugar estates, 
 fortunately for their personal safety; but their rich household goods 
 were despoiled by the miscreants. Later on, they deposed Captain- 
 General Dulce and constrained him to return to Spain, smarting 
 under the indignity offered him and the home government, which had 
 appointed him only a few months previous to his lawless deposition. 
 But the authorities at Madrid submitted to the outrage, and this em-' 
 boldened the volunteers, who soon deposed Brigadier-General Lopez- 
 Pinto from the governorship of Matanzas, and began to turn out in force 
 throughout the country, where many innocent men, women and children 
 were wantonly murdered by them. Hundreds of Cubans were torn from 
 their families and shipped off under volunteer escort to distant penal 
 colonies of Spain. 
 
 In November, 1871, forty-three medical students 
 of the University of Havana were arrested and sub- STUDENTS. 
 jected to trial by court-martial, at the demand of the 
 volunteers. The cause alleged was that these boys while at the general 
 cemetery had scratched the glass plate of a vault containing the 
 remains of a volunteer. The students were defended by an officer
 
 480 FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER. 
 
 of the Spanish army, and the trial resulted in their acquittal. But 
 the volunteers demanded a new trial, and the captain-general com- 
 plied with their wish, by ordering a court of five army officers with 
 nine volunteer captains and a major of the army to conduct the prosecu- 
 tion. These officers, organized into a court-martial, soon condemned 
 eight of the unfortunate boys to death, while their remaining com- 
 panions were sentenced to hard labor. 
 
 On the following day, November 27, 15,000 volunteers turned out 
 under arms and the death-doomed boys Avere shot by a detachment from 
 that force. This heinous deed produced consternation throughout Cuba, 
 and elicited a burst of indignation from every civilized nation on the face 
 of the globe. Even the Spanish parliament execrated the Havana vol- 
 unteers, but required no atonement for the crime. 
 
 The ten years' war was ended in February, 1878, by what is known 
 as the treaty of Zanjon. By this treat}' the Spanish government prom- 
 ised many reforms, but subsequent events showed that the painful les- 
 son of the war was entirely lost on the mother country. Instead of in- 
 augurating a redeeming policy that would heal the recent wounds, allay 
 public anxiety, and quench the thirst for justice felt by the people, who 
 were desirous to enjoy their natural rights, the government, while lavish 
 in promises of reform, persisted in carrying on, unchanged, its old and 
 crafty system, the groundwork of which continued to be the same, 
 namely: To exclude every native Cuban from every office that could 
 give him any effective influence and intervention in public affairs; the 
 ungovernable exploitation of the colonists' labor for the benefit of Span- 
 ish commerce and Spanish bureaucracy, both civil and military. To 
 carry out the latter purpose it was necessarj- to maintain the former at 
 any cost. 
 
 Under these circumstances it is not surprising that the people of 
 
 the island who had taken part in the heroic struggle for their liberty 
 
 soon began to make preparations for another rebel- 
 
 BEUINMNG PREP- jj T1 had j j enoni?h ()f promises that were 
 
 AUATIOXS FOR . 
 
 AXOTHFR W\R. ma( l on b' to be broken, and were determined that 
 when the time was ripe for them to again take up arms 
 against their oppressors, they would continue the contest until the last 
 trace of Spanish rule was banished from the island forever.
 
 FROM COLUMBUS TO WEYLER. 481 
 
 During the period immediately preceding the outbreak of the last 
 Cuban insurrection, the island advanced in agriculture and commerce 
 with remarkable rapidity. Even the oppression of Spanish rule and the 
 enormous volume of money drained from the island by oppressive taxa- 
 tion and dishonest officials from Spain were unable to prevent progress. 
 By nothing is the marvelous future of the island more plainly prophesied 
 than by a study of these facts. The fruitfulness of the island was such 
 that its production Avas able to outstrip even the rapacity of Spain. 
 Individuals suffered poverty and oppression by this drain upon the 
 island, and still it struggled forward into a wider commerce and more 
 intimate association with the rest of the world. Finally, driven by 
 every sentiment that makes men strive for righteousness, justice and 
 freedom, the people rose against their oppressors. 
 
 So began the revolution of 1895. Cubans of all classes flocked to the 
 standards of the leaders. Spain realized that this was to be the su- 
 preme effort of the revolutionists, and sent Campos, her greatest general, 
 to crush them. lie failed and was recalled. Then came Weyler 
 Weyler the "butcher." For over 400 years Cuba had been under the 
 heel of Spanish cruelty, but the coming of Weyler was the beginning of 
 the end.
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 
 
 No Peace for the Oppressed Island South American Patriots Attempt to Free Cuba 
 The Work of Filibusters Outbreak of the Ten Years' War Cubans Adopt a 
 Declaration of Independence Progress of the Insurrection Sympathy from the 
 Bepublics of South and North America Years of Blood and Warfare Capture 
 of the Virginius and Execution of American Citizens General Martinez Campos 
 in Command A Treaty of Peace between Spanish and Insurgents Abolition 
 of Slavery in the Island Cuban Patriots Continue Active Outbreak of the 
 Last Insurrection TJselessness of the Trocha Maceo's Campaign in Pinar del 
 Bio Weyler Succeeds Campos The Beconcentration Decree. 
 
 FOR nearly an hundred years there has been no time in the island of 
 Cuba when there was absolute peace. Occasionally some years 
 would elapse without active warfare, but even then revolutionary 
 leaders were constantly at work planning rebellion against Spanish 
 domination. For a long time the better class of citizens of the island 
 v/as not in sympathy with these insurrections, preferring to bear the ills 
 of Spanish misrule rather than to wage a war in which they recognized 
 their own inability to carry it unaided to a successful close. Under 
 these circumstances, failure was the inevitable result of each succeeding 
 effort. 
 
 After the Spanish colonies in the western world had gained their 
 liberty, under the leadership of Simon Bolivar, that hero of South 
 American independence determined that Cuba also should be free. He 
 used every means in his power to secure the support of the United 
 States in his undertaking, but in this he was unsuccessful, and the 
 Spanish authorities having put to death a number of commissioners 
 who had been sent by him to Cuba for the purpose of inciting rebellion, 
 he was forced to abandon the attempt. 
 
 Bolivar converted some of the leading men of the island to the home 
 rule idea, however, and they took up the task of bringing others to their 
 
 483
 
 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 483 
 
 views. From 1848 to 1854 a number of uprisings took place, and in 
 
 these the Cubans were assisted by men from the 
 
 southern portion of the United States, who were FILI BUSTERING 
 
 EXPEDITIONS 
 
 scheming for Cuban annexation. The principal move- T0 U BA> 
 ment of this character was under command of Nar- 
 cisco Lopez, a native of Venezuela, who had been a general in the 
 Spanish army. The second in command was W. S. Crittenden of 
 Kentucky, a West Point graduate, and though but twenty-eight years 
 of age, a hero of the Mexican war. 
 
 They set sail from New Orleans with a force of about 600 men, 
 and captured the town of Cardenas, on the north coast of Cuba. They 
 met with no encouragement from the people of the island, however, and 
 realizing that without that support they could not hope to accomplish 
 any lasting results, the invaders returned to the United States. Shortly 
 after this fiasco, Lopez and Crittenden organized another expedition and 
 set sail for Cuba, landing at Bahia Honda. They marched a few miles 
 into the interior, where a detachment of the Spanish army commanded 
 by General Heina met them and gave battle. The force under Lopez 
 gained an easy victory, and the Spanish general was killed. 
 
 But. this success was only momentary, for they were in a section of 
 the island where the Spanish forces were the strongest and the revolu- 
 tionary sentiment the weakest, and Lopez soon found himself over- 
 powered. Crittenden had remained at the coast for the purpose of 
 forming a base of operations, and hearing nothing from Lopez he re-, 
 alized that the movement was a failure. He attempt- 
 ed to escape by taking to the sea in open boats, but 
 was captured, with fifty of his men, by the Spanish OF KENTUCKY. 
 admiral, Brestillo, and all were executed under the 
 walls of the fort. Lopez found some sympathizers, but there was no 
 demonstration in his favor as he had expected, and his army was easily 
 dispersed. He was captured and put to death with the garrote in 
 Havana. 
 
 There were a number of unimportant uprisings during the next few 
 years, but none of any consequence until after the civil war in the 
 United States. 
 
 On October 10, 1868, an insurrection broke out which was the com-
 
 484 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 
 
 mencement of the bitter Ten Years' war. The fact that the mother 
 country was in the midst of internal dissensions which threatened to 
 overthrow the government, caused the revolutionary leaders in Cuba 
 to hasten the movement, and gave them hope of success. A declaration 
 of independence was issued dated Manzanillo, October 10, which thus 
 stated the reasons for and the object of the movement: 
 
 "In arming ourselves against the tyrannical government of Spain 
 we must, according to precedent in all civilized countries, proclaim be- 
 fore the world the cause that impels us to take this step, which, though 
 likely to entail considerable disturbances upon the present, will insure 
 the happiness of the future. 
 
 "It is well known that Spain governs the island of Cuba with an 
 iron and bloodstained hand. The former holds the latter deprived of 
 political, civil, and religious liberty. Hence the unfortunate Cubans 
 being illegally prosecuted and thrown into exile or executed by military 
 commissioners in times of peace; hence their being kept from public 
 meetings and forbidden to speak or write on affairs of state; hence their 
 remonstrances against the evils that afflict them being looked on as the 
 proceedings of rebels, from the fact that they are bound to keep silent 
 and obey; hence the never-ending plague of hungry officials from Spain 
 to devour the product of their industry and labor; 
 THE FIRST CUBAN hence their exc i lis i on f rom public stations and want of 
 
 INDEPENDENCE, opportunity to skill themselves in the art of govern- 
 ment; hence the restrictions to which public instruc- 
 tion with them is subjected, in order .to keep them so ignorant as not to 
 be able to know and enforce their rights in any shape or form whatever; 
 hence the navy and standing army, which are kept upon their country at 
 an enormous expenditure from their own wealth, to make them bend 
 their knees and submit their necks to the iron yoke that disgraces them. 
 Hence the grinding taxation under which they labor, and which would 
 make them all perish in misery but for the marvelous fertility of the soil. 
 "To the God of our conscience and to all civilized nations we submit 
 the sincerity of our purpose. Vengeance does not mislead us, nor is am- 
 bition our guide. We only want to be free and see all men with us 
 equally free, as the Creator intended all mankind to be. Our earnest 
 belief is that all men are brethren. Hence our love of toleration, order,
 
 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 485 
 
 and justice in every respect. We desire the gradual abolition of slavery, 
 with indemnification; we admire universal suffrage, as it insures the 
 sovereignty of the people; we demand a religious regard for the inalien- 
 able rights of man as the basis of freedom and national greatness." 
 
 The movement spread rapidly over the whole of the eastern and 
 central departments. Ten days later, the general-in-chief of the Cuban 
 forces, Carlos Manuel Cespedes, and the members of the provisional gov- 
 ernment addressed a letter to the government of the United States, in 
 which they asked for recognition as belligerents, and gave the following 
 account of their strength: 
 
 "We now hold much more than fifty leagues of the interior of this 
 island in the eastern department, among which are the people (or com- 
 munities) of Jignani, Tunas, Baire, Yara, Barrancas, Datil, Cauto, Em- 
 barcadero, Guisa, and Ilorno, besides the cities of Bayamo and Hol- 
 guin, in all numbering 107,853 inhabitants, who obey us, and have 
 sworn to shed to the last drop of blood in our cause. ro\mTTO\s 
 In the mentioned city of Bayamo we have established ^ J" 
 
 a provisional government and formed our general Tv S T- R i? F r' T To\ 
 quarters, where we hold more than 300 of the enemy 
 prisoners, taken from the Spanish army, among whom are generals and 
 governors of high rank. All this has been accomplished in ten days, 
 without other resources than those offered by the country we have 
 passed through, without other arms than those taken from the enemy, 
 and without other losses than three or four killed and six or eight 
 wounded." 
 
 
 , From the beginning of this uprising, the Cuban insurgents met with 
 
 the most cordial sympathy in South America. The governments of 
 Chili and Peru formally recognized the revolutionists. A letter written 
 by the president of Peru to General Cespedes, "Captain-General of the 
 Liberating Army of Cuba," contained the following paragraph: "The 
 president of Peru sympathizes deeply with the noble cause of which your 
 excellency constitutes himself the worthy champion, and he will do his 
 utmost to mark the interest which that island, so worthy of taking its 
 place with the civilized nations of the world, inspires him with. The 
 Peruvian government recognizes as belligerents the party which is 
 fighting for the independence of Cuba, and will strive its utmost to 
 secure their recognition as such by other nations; and likewise that the
 
 486 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 
 
 war should be properly regulated in conformity with international 
 usages and laws." 
 
 The sympathy in all the other republics w T as equally outspoken. In 
 the United States, public opinion was very strong in favor of the in- 
 surgents, and showed itself in a large number of mass meetings, in reso- 
 lutions in congress, and in the fitting out of a number 
 f ex P editions - This sympathy was also expressed in 
 INSURRECTION. the messa g e of President Grant, in December, 1869; 
 on the other hand, however, the message took the 
 ground that "the contest had at no time assumed the conditions which 
 amount to a war in the sense of international law, or which would show 
 the existence of a de facto political organization of the insurgents suffi- 
 cient to justify a recognition of belligerency." 
 
 Meanwhile the insurrection was continued with unabated vigor, 
 and, although it did not gain ground, nor obtain any signal advantage, 
 the Spanish authorities were unable to suppress it, and the war was 
 waged on both sides with a degree of ferocity and a disregard of human 
 life unknown in modern warfare. The destruction of property was im- 
 mense, the torch of the Spaniard and the Cuban alike, busy in carrying 
 devastation over fertile regions. The decrees issued and executed by 
 both parties were bloody and revengeful. The Spaniards besides hav- 
 ing to fight a desperate enemy, perfectly familiar with all the moun- 
 tain recesses in the interior of the island, saw their number decimated 
 by the climate and by disease. Although they were in possession of 
 every sea-port on the island, they did not succeed in preventing the land- 
 ing of fire-arms and ammunition for the insurgents. The hostile feeling 
 which drove so great a number of the native inhabitants to armed resist- 
 ance continued unabated, and although there were cases during the 
 conduct of the war where Cuban leaders surrendered with their com- 
 mands, new recruits filled the ranks, consisting of either the young na- 
 tives, or of filibusters from abroad. 
 
 In October, 1ST3, an unforeseen event occurred which seemed for 
 a time to bring to the friends of Cuban independence the sudden realiza- 
 tion of their hopes. On the thirty-first day of that mouth, the Virginius, 
 a ship sailing under the American flag, was captured on the high seas, 
 near Jamaica, by the Spanish steamer Tornado, on the ground that it
 
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 COURTYARD OF CUBAN HOUSE, HAVANA 
 
 Like the houses in most Spanish-American countries, the residences of Cuba are built with a 
 courtyard or patio in the center. This is ornamented with all sorts of tropical flowers and fruits, and 
 becomes the general resting-place and living room for the family and their guests.
 
 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 489 
 
 intended to land men and arms in Cuba for the insurgent army. The 
 crew was taken to Santiago de Cuba, where fifty-three 
 of their number, including Captain Frye, were slaught- ^ BE FAMOUS CASE 
 ered. Their remaining companions, to the number of VIRGISIUS 
 some 130, would have shared the same fate, but for 
 the sudden appearance of the British sloop-of-w r ar, Niobe, under Com- 
 mander Lorrain, who peremptorily required the governor of the province 
 to stop his bloody work. 
 
 The universal excitement in the United States at the conduct of 
 the Spanish authorities in this affair, for a time appeared to make a war 
 between the United States and Spain inevitable, and the Cubans hoped 
 that such a w T ar would cause the immediate expulsion of the Spaniards 
 from the island. The hopes thus raised were, however, doomed to dis- 
 appointment, as the diplomatic negotiations opened between the United 
 States and Spain led to a peaceable settlement of the whole difficulty. 
 
 During 1874, fresh troops from Spain took the field by thousands,,the 
 Spanish forces having sustained ver} 7 heavy losses in tne preceding year. 
 A lull ensued in the insurrectionary districts, with the exception of Cam- 
 aguey and eastern Cuba, where the insurgents attacked every now and 
 then the Spanish columns escorting heavy trains of war materials and 
 provisions, which were usually captured by the Cuban forces. Eut 
 meantime partisan strife raised its head among the struggling Cubans, 
 and eventually their number was reduced to barely 5,000 men, scat- 
 tered in bands of a few hundred each. But even these few men were 
 enabled by their mighty ally, the climate, to cause the Spanish troops 
 severe losses by steadily harassing them. 
 
 Such losses were nevertheless amply covered with 25,000 men, who 
 arrived from Spain under the leadership of General Martinez Campos, 
 who w r as given the command of the Spanish forces in Cuba. He de- 
 ployed his troops as he deemed best for a decisive campaign, but seeing 
 them frequently baffled in eastern Cuba and con- 
 stantly harassed in the central portion of the island, CUBANS AND 
 he finally resorted to negotiations with insurgent Q F WARFARE. 
 chieftains to bring the war to an end. Success re- 
 warded his efforts in this direction, for early in the year 1878 an 
 armistice was agreed to between the belligerents in Ca maguey, where
 
 490 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 
 
 the seat of the insurgent government was at the time, and here the 
 Cuban chamber of deputies held a session to consider the overtures of 
 General Campos for peace. 
 
 The chamber appointed a committee of nine members to wait on 
 General Vicente Garcia, who had been recently chosen president of the 
 tottering republic of Cuba, and arrange for a meeting. This meeting 
 took place shortly afterwards at Zanjon, in the district of Camaguey. 
 There appeared on the part of Spain, General Campos with a few 
 officers of his staff, and on the part of Cuba, President Garcia, with the 
 committee above mentioned. At that meeting the remaining insurgent 
 forces in war-torn Cuba capitulated, conditional upon the introduction 
 of various government reforms throughout the island. 
 
 This war, which lasted for ten years, cost Spain 300,000,000 pesos 
 and 100,000 men, many of whom were victims of yellow fever. Its cost 
 to Cuba in the lives of her sons cannot be accurately stated, but Cuban 
 authorities place the number at from 40,000 to 50,000. 
 
 Slavery in tlfe island was abolished in 1880, and this caused fresh 
 disturbances, as the majority of the slave-holders received no compen- 
 sation. The introduction of the Spanish constitution in 1884 brought 
 little benefit to the people, and their condition continually grew worse 
 instead of better. 
 
 The Cuban exiles in the United States and in Costa Rica, Honduras, 
 Santo Domingo, and other parts of Spanish America, continued to plan 
 for the freedom of their beloved island. They organized clubs, collected 
 a war fund, purchased munitions of war, and laid plans with their com- 
 patriots in Cuba for a new struggle for independence. There were 140 
 revolutionary clubs in North and South America, Cuba, and the other 
 West India islands, affiliated under the name of the revolutionary 
 party, ready to support an uprising with financial and 
 FORMING PLANS moral %[& There were fire-arms on the island that 
 
 FOR A NEA\ 
 
 INSURRECTION. uac * remained concealed since the former war, some 
 had been bought from corrupt custodians of the gov- 
 ernment arsenals, and many were smuggled in and hidden away. 
 
 An expedition that planned to sail in the yacht Lagonda from 
 Fernandina, Florida, on January 14, 1895, was broken up by the United 
 States authorities. General Antonio Maceo, its leader, with Jose Marti,
 
 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 491 
 
 the political organizer of the new movement, went to Santo Domingo, 
 where they could confer with the revolutionist leaders living in Cuba. 
 
 The plan of the revolutionists was to rise simultaneously in six 
 provinces on February 24. The leaders on the island and the organizers 
 abroad had a thorough understanding. The insurrection broke out on 
 the appointed day, but only in Santiago, Santa Clara, and Matanzas. 
 The latter two are comparatively populous provinces, in which the na- 
 tional troops could occupy strategic points and begin effective offensive 
 operations; but in the wooded, mountainous province of Santiago the 
 insurgents knew plenty of hiding places from w r liich they could harass 
 and gradually exterminate the Spanish troops. 
 
 During the Ten Years' war a Spanish engineer conceived the idea of 
 separating that part of the island where the insurgents were in active 
 operation from that part of it where there was no insurrection. For 
 this purpose he proposed the construction of a line between Jucaro, on 
 the south coast, and Moron, on the Junico river, near the north coast. 
 By this line it was proposed to confine the insurrection to the east, where 
 it had begun, and thus prevent its spreading. This line was termed 
 a trocha, which simply signifies a way or path across a country, without 
 regard to its topography or other roads, such as is often cut through a 
 forest to designate the limits of a territory or to make a boundary. The 
 military authorities entered upon the establishment 
 of the line at once, and such stress was laid upon its CONSTRUCTION OF 
 
 THE TEOCHA AND 
 
 construction by the Spaniards that it came to be con- ITS FAILURE* 
 sidered as impregnable as the great wall of China. 
 But when numerous insurgent chiefs had crossed it and re-crossed it, and 
 the old warrior, Maximo Gomez, had crossed it in company with his wife 
 and servants, the military authorities began to wake up to the worth- 
 lessness of their trocha. 
 
 Although it was condemned by both Captains-General Balmaceda 
 and Campos, when the latter returned to the island in 1895 and found 
 that the insurgents had entered Camaguey, he hastily distributed 
 nearly 50,000 soldiers along the old line between Jucaro and Moron, 
 hoping to keep the enemy from entering the province of Santa Clara. 
 Forts were rapidly constructed, and trees and undergrowth cleared 
 away for 200 yards each side of the railroad track which ran along the
 
 492 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 
 
 line; and thus came into existence for a second time the old trocha as a 
 military line. 
 
 Scarcely did Campos get his boundary line into effective shape be- 
 fore Gomez, with his retinue of Camaguey recruits crossed it into the 
 jurisdiction of Santo Espiritu, where he immediately began a series of 
 movements with the object of bewildering and tiring the Spanish forces 
 without risking any real engagements. The success of these move- 
 ments was crowned by the treasonable surrender of the Spanish gar- 
 rison at Pelayo, with fifty rifles and 23,000 cartridges. For this act the 
 Spanish authorities sentenced Captain Feijo, the commanding officer, 
 to life imprisonment in chains. 
 
 The insurgents constantly received recruits to their ranks of Cuban 
 
 youths and negro field-hands, who, encouraged by the success of the 
 
 movement, hesitated no longer to take the field. The banditti who had 
 
 always claimed to have been carrying on a war 
 
 TM*'f < T?,I T ITS FOR 
 
 ; , T 7 against Spain, in most cases hastened to join the revo- 
 
 THE INSURGENT 
 
 ARMIES. lutiomsts, and their leaders were given rank, as were 
 all others who presented themselves with any num- 
 ber of recruits. Those bandits who did not proclaim for the rebellion 
 and many free lances, who imagined tlftit the opportunity had come to 
 reap a harvest of plunder on their own account, were shortly wiped out 
 by the insurgent chiefs, who hanged them wherever captured. 
 
 Early in 1896 General Gomez united with General Antonio Maceo 
 near Punta Brava, not many miles from Havana, and the concentrated 
 force numbered 11,700 men. Here it was decided that Gomez should keep 
 up his tactics of moving about with his escort, the bulk of the force 
 should return and distribute itself over Matanzas, while Maceo with 
 4,000 men should continue into the westernmost province of Pinar del 
 Kio. This plan was immediately put into execution. The Spanish 
 leaders were unprepared for any such movement, and while a column 
 under the command of General Garcia Navarro was sent in pursuit of 
 Maceo, others were sent after Gomez. Maceo's advance into Pinar del 
 Kio was eminently successful. So rapidly did he move that Navarro's 
 column could not get up to him, while the surprised garrisons in front 
 of him surrendered to his surging horde, which was continually being 
 increased by the Cubans, who looked upon the multitude as already hav- 
 ing won Cuba's freedom.
 
 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 493 
 
 Maceo's rapid movement continued along the north coast to the 
 very last towns of Guane and Mantua, where his raids became more like 
 a triumphal procession, the people rising en masse to welcome him. 
 From Mantua he swept southward to the vicinity of the city of Pinar del 
 Rio, and thence he continued his march along the southern highway 
 back to Havana. At Paso Real he was taken by surprise by the column 
 of General Luque, and the famous but indecisive battle of Paso Real 
 ensued. While the Spanish remained in possession 
 of the city, Maceo marched away, and with colors 
 flying entered the town of San Cristobal, where he was 
 received with demonstrations of joy, even by those 
 people who did not favor his cause. General Sabas Marin had hastily 
 formed another trocha across the narrow part of the island between 
 Mariel and Majana, to prevent Maceo's forces joining those of Gomez, 
 and had stationed 8,000 troops in the vicinity of Artemisa to intercept 
 him. Maceo with his usual skill avoided an encounter, crossed the line, 
 and was again in Havana province without having fired a shot. 
 
 The political policy of Campos was one of conciliation with a prom- 
 ise of reform in the administration of the affairs of the island. His 
 military policy was to meet the insurgents on the field of battle and with 
 superior numbers and resources end the rebellion. Seconded by officers 
 who had learned the science of warfare at home, by planning battles on 
 paper, and with boy soldiers who scarcely knew how to carry a gun, his 
 operations in the field were as great failures as were his attempts' to 
 bring about peace by diplomatic means. 
 
 The beginning of 1890 saw the entire island, except the cities, in the 
 possession of the insurgents or else in a turmoil. The very people who 
 had protested against the uprising now hailed the chiefs as harbingers 
 of their independence. Gomez was marching back and forth, distribut- 
 ing his bands throughout Matanzas and Havana provinces. The great 
 mass of peasants who inhabited the rural districts 
 
 would not fight, but the Spanish soon discovered them 
 
 . 
 
 in coalition with the insurgents, and the}' misled the JJ^RXESEZ CAMPOS. 
 soldiers of the crown on every possible occasion. The 
 army called for their punishment, but Campos refused to make war on 
 noncombatants. The Spaniards in Havana, astonished at the rapid
 
 494 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 
 
 march of the insurgents and the inability of the army to check them, 
 with destruction going on at every hand, demanded the recall of 
 Campos. The home government at Madrid complied with the command, 
 and the man who had been considered Spain's greatest general left 
 Cuba, having failed completely to check the rebellion. 
 
 The man chosen by the Spanish government to succeed Campos 
 was General Weyler, who arrived in Havana on February 10, 1896. He 
 had been in Cuba before, having been in command of the province of 
 Santiago during the Ten Years' war, where he gained for himself a 
 reputation for wholesale butchery, and it was probably on account of 
 this reputation that he was selected to quell this later rebellion. 
 
 With the troops already in the field in the island, the force at Gen- 
 eral Weyler's command at the opening of the fall campaign of 1896-97 
 was not less than 200,000 men, and he decided to take the field in person. 
 He proceeded toward the mountainous region of Pinar del Rio, and made 
 his headquarters near the line of the main railwa} 7 from Havana to 
 Pinar del Rio city. Thence he sent out columns to search for the rebels, 
 but he was not successful in finding them in force, nor did he fight any 
 decisive engagement. 
 
 While he was in the west Maceo met his death at the hands of 
 Spanish troops. When General Weyler finally gave up active opera- 
 tions and seated himself in the palace at Havana he announced that 
 Pinar del Rio was practically free from rebel bands. It was officially 
 announced by General Weyler on January 11, 1897, that three provinces 
 were practically pacified, but, by a seeming paradox, he took the field 
 again on January 19. The bulletins issued from the palace announced 
 sweeping victories for the Spanish in Matanzas and the other provinces 
 which he had declared pacified, showing that the insurgents there were 
 still active. 
 
 The last personal campaign, like the first, was one of destruction, 
 and the torch played an important part. When the captain-general 
 left Havana, he did so with the avowed intention of 
 OEXERALJVEYLER meeting General Gomez in Matanzas, but there was 
 HIS POLICY. no engagement f consequence. Gomez eluded the 
 Spanish forces, which outnumbered his own by sev- 
 eral thousand, and there were only a few skirmishes. Tn all of these the
 
 INSURRECTIONS IN CUBA. 495 
 
 officials in the palace in Havana claimed victories for Spain, with heavy 
 losses to the insurgents. 
 
 The most infamous act of Weyler's administration was his recon- 
 centration order, which compelled the nonconabatants to abandon their 
 homes in the rural districts and herd like sheep in the cities and towns 
 which were still held by the Spanish arms. This meant starvation for 
 thousands of inoffensive women and children, but notwithstanding the 
 horrible suffering and death "which followed, the "butcher" continued 
 the enforcement of the edict, in the face of the protests of the civilized 
 world. 
 
 In April, 1890, a change of United States consuls at Havana ex- 
 cited comment. The appointment of General Fitzhugh Lee to succeed 
 Consul-General Williams, was regarded by Americans as well as by the 
 authorities at the palace, as an adroit way of sending 
 a military commissioner from the United States to ONSUL FITZHUGH 
 Cuba. When there was an intimation that Mr. Cleve- HAVANA. 
 land contemplated sending a commissioner to learn 
 officially what was going on, the officials at Madrid said very plainly 
 that no military or other commission would be accepted by them, or 
 permitted to pry into affairs in Cuba. There was, therefore, some curi- 
 osity as to how General Lee would be received, and as to what facilities 
 would be accorded him for learning what was transpiring outside of the 
 city of Havana. The American residents of Havana welcomed General 
 Lee w r ith open arms, and he soon demonstrated that he was the man^or 
 the position. Through his determined efforts, citizens of the United 
 States were afforded a protection that had been denied them before his 
 arrival, and more than one American owes his liberty and his life to the 
 courage and determination of General Lee.
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN. 
 
 The Destruction of the Battleship Maine Legislative Preliminaries of the War 
 Verdict of the Naval Court American Citizens Leave Havana Mobilization 
 of the Army The President's Call for Troops Congress Declares War Block- 
 ade of the Cuban Coast Many Prizes Captured First Engagement of the War 
 The Affair of the Winslow Cervera's Fleet in Santiago Harbor Destruction 
 of the Alfonso XII. Minor Naval Engagements. 
 
 IN THE mind of the American people, the signal event which caused 
 our war with Spain was the destruction of the United States battle- 
 ship Maine in Havana harbor, and the beginning of hostilities is 
 dated from 9:40 o'clock p. m., February 15, 1898, when the explosion took 
 place that sent the noble ship and many of its brave crew to the bottom 
 of the sea. 
 
 But, in fact, the war had been coming for some time before this act 
 of Spanish treachery. Senators and representatives in congress had been 
 agitating for the recognition of Cuban independence for months, for 
 both of the great political parties had adopted planks in their national 
 platforms declaring for the freedom of the island. Some members of con- 
 gress were in favor of armed intervention, and tangible substance was 
 given the pro-Cuban feeling on February 8, when Senator Allen of Ne- 
 braska, Senator Cannon of Utah and Senator Mason of Illinois intro- 
 duced Cuban resolutions in the senate. Senator Allen offered, as an 
 amendment to the diplomatic and consular appropriation bill, a resolu- 
 tion recognizing the belligerency of the Cuban insurgents; Senator 
 Cannon offered a resolution urging the president to notify the kingdom 
 of Spain that if it did not recognize the independence of Cuba before 
 March 4, 1898, the United States would recognize the belligerency of the 
 Cubans arid within ninety days thereafter would assert the independ- 
 
 49G
 
 OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN. 497 
 
 ence of the Cuban republic; Senator Mason offered a resolution request- 
 ing the president to notify Spain that the Cuban war must cease and 
 declare the intention of the United States to restore and maintain peace 
 in the island of Cuba. 
 
 When the naval court appointed for the purpose of inquiring into 
 the cause of the catastrophe to the Maine finished its work, and found 
 that the ship had been destroyed by the explosion of a mine, the respon- 
 sibility of the Spanish government for the crime could 
 not be questioned. Patience ceased to be a virtue. 
 "Remember the Maine" became a national watchword ACTION. 
 
 and Congress was overwhelmed by the war spirit. 
 War and Cuban resolutions followed each other in Congress in rapid 
 sequence, and President McKinley, who was watching every move and 
 at the same time putting forth almost superhuman efforts to postpone 
 aggressive action until such time as the navy and army were in better 
 shape, was compelled to give way. 
 
 On April 3 Fitzhugh Lee, the American consul-general at Havana, 
 was ordered to come home and bring with him all American citizens 
 in the Cuban capital. He left Havana April 9, arriving in Key West 
 the next day. When President McKinley was assured that all Amer- 
 icans were out of Havana he sent to Congress the long-expected message 
 April 11, asking authorit} 7 to take measures to secure a termination of 
 hostilities in Cuba and to secure in the island the establishment of a 
 stable government and to use the military and naval forces of the 
 United States as might be necessary to carry out his policy. He recom- 
 mended the continuation of the distribution of food to the starving 
 people of Cuba. There was no reference in his message to Cuban inde- 
 pendence. 
 
 In anticipation of war, the regular army was ordered to mobolize 
 at Tampa, Mobile, Xew Orleans and Chickamauga, On April 21 Gen- 
 eral Woodforcl, the American minister to Spain, was given his pass- 
 ports by the Spanish government and left Madrid, and the next morn- 
 ing the American fleet, under Admiral Sampson, sailed from Key West 
 to begin a blockade of Havana and the northern coast of Cuba. 
 
 President McKinley's ultimatum to the Spanish government de- 
 manded a reply on or before noon on Saturday, April 23, and warned
 
 498 OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN. 
 
 them that at that time their opportunity for a peaceful settlement of 
 the difficulty would end. At the expiration of these 
 
 dayS f gmCe > th6 President SaW that S P ain WaS de ' 
 SOLDIERS. termined on war, and he began to make preparations 
 
 for the conflict. He immediately issued a proclama- 
 tion calling for 125,000 troops, to serve for two years or as long as 
 the war lasted. This proclamation was in the following terms: 
 
 BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES: 
 A PROCLAMATION. 
 
 Whereas, by a joint resolution of Congress, approved the 22d of 
 April, 1898, entitled "Joint resolution for the recognition of the inde- 
 pendence of the people of Cuba, demanding that the government of 
 Spain relinquish its authority and government in the island of Cuba, 
 to withdraw its land and naval forces from Cuba and Cuban waters, 
 and directing the President of the United States to use the land and 
 naval forces of the United States to carry these resolutions into effect," 
 and, 
 
 Whereas, by an act of Congress, entitled "An act to provide for 
 the increasing of the military establishment of the United States in 
 time of war and for other purposes," approved April 22, 1898, the Presi- 
 dent was authorized in order to raise a volunteer army to issue his 
 proclamation calling for volunteers to serve in the army of the United 
 States. 
 
 Now, therefore, I, William McKinley, President of the United 
 States, by the power vested in me by the constitution and laws, and 
 deeming sufficient occasion to exist, have thought fit to call for and 
 hereby do call for volunteers to the aggregate number of 125,000, in 
 order to carry into effect the purpose of the said resolution, the same 
 to be apportioned, as far as practicable, among the several states and 
 territories and the District of Columbia, according to population, and 
 to serve for two years unless sooner discharged. The details for this 
 object will be immediately communicated to the proper authorities 
 through the war department. 
 
 In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand, and caused 
 the seal of the United States to be affixed. 
 
 Done at Washington this 23d day of April, 1898, and of the inde- 
 pendence of the United States the one hundred and twenty-second. 
 
 By the President: WILLIAM M'KINLEY. 
 
 JOHN SHERMAN, Secretary of State.
 
 OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN. 499 
 
 War between the United States and Spain was declared by Con- 
 gress in a joint resolution hurriedly passed through both houses and 
 immediately signed by President McJinley on the afternoon of April 
 25. This was the formal declaration of war, but as a matter of fact 
 war existed from April 21, for on that day the first shotted gun was 
 fired, throwing a six-pound shell from the United States gunboat Nash- 
 ville across the bow of the Spanish steamer Buena Ventura, the first 
 prize taken by Admiral Sampson's blockading fleet. Following is the 
 declaration of war adopted by Congress April 25: 
 
 A bill declaring that war exists between the United States of 
 America and the kingdom of Spain. 
 Be it enacted, etc. 
 
 1. That war be and the same is hereby declared to exist and 
 that war has existed since the 21st day of April, A. D. 1898, including 
 said day, between the United States of America and co\f RESS 
 the kingdom of Spain. , ' 
 
 2. That the President of the United States be 71 LI 
 
 i i i i -] -,! -, , ,, At* All* SI 1A1.>. 
 
 and he hereby is directed and empowered to use the 
 entire land and naval forces of the United States and to call into the 
 actual service of the United States the militia of the several states to 
 such extent as may be necessary to carry this act into effect. 
 
 The states responded enthusiastically to the call for volunteers, and 
 if all the men who showed a desire to volunteer had been accepted, no 
 nation in the world could have boasted a larger army. 
 
 While the troops were massing at Chickamauga and at Tampa, the 
 two principal places for mobolizing the army, the navy had placed 
 a picket line of warships along the north coast of Cuba, all the way 
 from Bahia Honda, west of Havana, to and beyond Cardenas, east of 
 Havana, more than 125 miles, blockading the ports of Bahia Honda, 
 Mariel, Havana, Matanzas, and Cardenas. Cruisers and gunboats swept 
 the Florida straits with long-distance eyes glued to powerful glasses, 
 on the lookout for Spanish colors. Prizes drawn from the Spanish grab- 
 bag soon grew common in Key West, and the arrival of a merchant- 
 man belonging to the enemy soon became such an everyday occurrence 
 that it failed to attract any particular attention. 
 
 When a prize was captured, it was taken to the flagship New 
 York and reported. Then it was brought to Key West to lie alongside
 
 500 OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN. 
 
 the other -trophies of war. The prizes were known in Key West as 
 "reconcentrados," and the name was well given, for the United States 
 was compelled to feed the crews .and passengers until they could make 
 arrangements to leave the island. The people aboard the prizes were 
 not held as prisoners of war; but were at liberty to leave as soon as 
 they liked. 
 
 The first actual engagement of the war was on April 27, when the 
 cruisers New York and Cincinnati and the monitor Puritan of the 
 blockading squadron steamed into the bay of Matanzas and drew the 
 fire of the forts. It was returned by the gunners of the flagship, and 
 the Cincinnati and Puritan soon joined in a vigorous cannonade. After 
 twenty minutes' fire the batteries were silenced, and our ships with- 
 drew. The target practice of the New York was an inspiring sight. 
 At every shot clouds of dust and big pieces of stone showed where the 
 Spanish fortifications were suffering. Not a shot from the shore bat- 
 teries struck the mark, and not the slightest damage was done to any 
 of the ships that took part in the bombardment. 
 
 The first loss of life on an American warship in Cuban waters 
 
 occurred in the bay of Cardenas on the afternoon of May 11. Three 
 
 vessels the gunboat Wilmington, the torpedo boat Winslow and the 
 
 revenue cutter Hudson, which had been taking soundings tried to 
 
 sink or capture some Spanish gunboats and were fired on by the masked 
 
 shore batteries. The Winslow was disabled, and was drifting towards 
 
 the shore, into the very mouths of the batteries, when she signaled 
 
 for help. The Hudson, 150 yards away, ran up to tow the torpedo 
 
 boat out of range. While passing a rope both boats 
 
 T AMERICAN wepe s t rilc k several times, and the Winslow's funnels 
 
 WINSLOW. an( l ventilators were shot away. Most of the projec- 
 tiles were solid shot, but just as the Winslow got 
 under way again, a heavy shell struck on her forward deck, and, ex- 
 ploding, killed Ensign Worth Bagley, three firemen and one sailor, and 
 wounded Lieutenant Bernardou, the commander and four others of the 
 crew. 
 
 When the shell exploded the hawser parted, and the Winslow's 
 helm went hard to starboard, and, with its steering gear smashed, the 
 boat floundered about in the water at the mercv of the enemy's fire. The
 
 OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN. 501 
 
 Hudson quickly threw another line to the disabled torpedo boat and 
 pulled it out of the Spaniard's range. 
 
 The war had not been long under way when Commodore Schlev 
 caged the Spanish armada, under Admiral Cervera, in the harbor of 
 Santiago, and the scene of battle shifted to the south coast of Cuba. 
 On this account it was not until the 6th of July that another 
 engagement of any moment took place on the north shore of the island. 
 On that date three boats of the blockading fleet, the Hawk, the Prairie 
 and the Castine, put to flight two gunboats of the enemy, beached and 
 burned the Alfonso XII., a transport of 5,000 tons, loaded with ammu- 
 nition, and silenced the batteries that joined in the fight. 
 
 The battle began off Havana, to which port the Alfonso XII. was 
 headed from the west. Lieutenant Hood of the Hawk was circling 
 about with his boat six miles west of Morro, when the forward lookout 
 sighted a huge four-masted steamer creeping along in the shade of the 
 shore. His "sail ho" warned the captain of the steamer that he was 
 discovered, and he turned at the cry and steamed rapidly westward 
 toward Mariel. The Hawk did not lose a moment, but immediately 
 gave chase. Twenty miles from Morro, Lieutenant Hood fired his first 
 shots. The gunners of the Hawk poured six pounders upon the flying 
 steamer, and she ran for the harbor of Mariel, where she struck a bar 
 on the west side of the entrance and stuck fast. With wild cheers the 
 Hawk's crew attempted to board the prize, but her rails were lined 
 with riflemen, and they were driven back to their ship. , 
 
 They guarded their prize till morning, and then, seeing her fast 
 agrcund, they returned to the fleet to secure assistance in taking her. 
 The Castine was sent to aid in the work, but the shore batteries opened 
 on them, and after two hours' fighting, they were com- 
 pelled to send for re-enforcements. The Prairie was SHARr FIGHTING 
 dispatched to engage the batteries, and soon succeeded SPANISH PRI/E. 
 in silencing them. The infantry in the rifle-pits sup- 
 porting the batteries were driven out by the Castine, the Alfonso XII. 
 was taken and added to the long list of prizes to the credit of the 
 blockading squadron. 
 
 Of so much greater importance were the events transpiring before 
 Santiago, that the progress of the war along the north coast of Cuba
 
 02 OUR HOLY WAR WITH SPAIN. 
 
 and elsewhere on the south coast was given but scant attention either 
 by writers or readers of the news. It is necessary to say, however, 
 that not only during the Santiago campaign, but during the weeks fol- 
 lowing the surrender of that city, up to the very day of the signature 
 of the peace protocol, the navy was active in maintaining the blockade. 
 Several daring efforts were made by Spanish blockade runners to con- 
 vey relief to the beleaguered cities, but in every case the effort was 
 frustrated. 
 
 The "mosquito fleet" maintained the blockade after the big fighters 
 had gone to Santiago in a manner that was highly creditable to officers, 
 men and vessels. Tug boats, torpedo boats and pleasure yachts con- 
 verted into gunboats, all armed with rapid-firing guns and capable of 
 traveling at a high rate of speed, made the waters of the channel be- 
 tween the Florida Keys and Cuba untenable for anything flying the 
 Spanish flag. Once in awhile a Spanish gunboat would make a sortie 
 from the harbor, only to be driven back disabled. Many such encoun- 
 ters resulted in the destruction of Spanish boats and the capture of 
 others as prizes. 
 
 On the south coast of Cuba similar events were happening. At 
 Manzanillo, Trinidad and Cienfuegos there were sharp little naval bat- 
 tles quite worth describing if they were not so overshadowed by the 
 greater events before Santiago. Blockade service off 
 the Cuban coast in small boats is an experience quite 
 SERVICE. as trvm g as anv sailor can undergo, and it would be 
 an injustice not to acknowledge the character of the 
 service as it was conducted during those long weeks. The officers and 
 men thus occupied were out of reach of the glorious victory of Santiago, 
 but their work was just as essential and credit should not fail for it.
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 
 
 Cervera's Cruise to the West Indies Hobson and the Sinking of the Merrimac The 
 Marines at Guantanamo Bay Desperate Fighting Day and Night Voyage of 
 the Transports from Tampa to the Cuban Coast Landing at Baiquiri The 
 First Battle of the Bough Riders El Caney and San Juan Hill Surrender of 
 Santiago Demanded Admiral Cervera Attempts to Escape from Santiago 
 Harbor Total Destruction of the Spanish Fleet Splendid "Work of American 
 Ships and Sailors General Miles Arrives in Cuba Surrender of the Spanish 
 Forces and the City Santiago in Possession of the Americans. 
 
 WHEN Admiral Cervera, commanding the Spanish armada, 
 sailed for the West Indies, his destination was San Juan de 
 Puerto Rico, where he expected to put in for coal and sup- 
 plies. This intention was learned by the naval authorities at Washing- 
 ton, who immediately ordered Admiral Sampson to intercept him at 
 that point and destroy his fleet. When Cervera touched at Curacao 
 he heard of Sampson's bombardment of San Juan, and he turned to- 
 wards the south coast of Cuba. At this time Commodore Schley's 
 squadron was closing in on Cervera from the east, cutting off escape in 
 that direction. 
 
 It w r as believed that Cienfuegos was the destination of Admiral 
 Cervera, as railway communication between there and Havana would 
 enable him to send guns and ammunition from his ships to Captain- 
 General Blanco for the defense of the capital. Instead, however, he 
 took refuge in the harbor of Santiago de Cuba. Commodore Schley 
 discovered that he was guarding an empty harbor at Cienfuegos and 
 moved eastward to the older city which became the center of operations. 
 The combined fleets of Commodore Schley and Admiral Sampson, the 
 latter in command, then began a close blockade of the harbor of 
 Santiago, which lasted for several weeks, until Admiral Cervera at- 
 tempted to escape. 
 
 503
 
 504 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 
 
 On the morning of June 3, eight men of the navy performed the 
 
 most daring deed of the war by sinking the steam collier Merrimac in 
 
 the harbor entrance to Santiago de Cuba under the fire of the Spanish 
 
 batteries. Lieutenant Richmond P. Hobson, naval 
 
 constructor assigned to the flagship New York, with 
 
 DAREN!* DEED . . . 
 
 OF THE WAR. a crew * seven, took the big coal-carrier into the chan- 
 nel just before the dawn, pushed her through the 
 guarding line of torpedoes, and under a perfect hail of shot and shell 
 sunk the vessel in a position which, it was hoped, would prevent the 
 outcoming of Admiral Cervera's squadron. 
 
 The affair was an exhibition of calculating courage and indomita- 
 ble energy, the men who performed the task entering upon their work 
 in the firm belief that death and glory would be the end of their en- 
 deavor to perform a signal service to the country. 
 
 These were the heroes: 
 
 Lieutenant Richmond P. Hobson, naval constructor, flagship New 
 York; Daniel Montague, master-at-arms, flagship New York; George 
 Charette, gunner's mate, flagship New York; J. C. Murphy, cockswain, 
 Iowa; Oscar Deignan, cockswain, Merrimac; John P. Phillips, ma- 
 chinist, Merrimac; John Kelley, water tender, Merrimac; H. Clausen, 
 cockswain, flagship New York. 
 
 Naval Cadet Powell of the New York, with a picked crew of six 
 men volunteered from various ships, also shares in the glory, for he 
 went close in to the mouth of the harbor in a steam cutter, awaiting an 
 opportunity to rescue any of the men who might escape alive, and 
 remained pluckily at his post until daylight, when he was driven away 
 by a terrific fire from shore. 
 
 It was Ilobson's idea to block the harbor by sinking a ship across 
 the channel. He submitted his plan to Admiral Sampson, and, after 
 much consultation, it was decided to allow him to try. Death to those 
 engaging in the enterprise seemed certain, and, after great hesitancy, 
 it was decided to reduce the number of men participating to the mini- 
 mum. Having formulated the scheme, volunteers were called for the 
 service. But eight men were required. Two thousand offered them- 
 selves. Not only did American sailors show that they were ready at 
 a moment's notice to answer any call, but they pleaded, begged and
 
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 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 507 
 
 importuned commanding officers to use their influence to secure the 
 desperate but coveted detail. Those who were chosen considered them- 
 selves lucky. Those who were refused declined to be comforted, and 
 openly averred that they were being treated badly and that the navy 
 was no place for a man who wished to get ahead. Three men from the 
 flagship New York swam from their ship to the Merrimac after being 
 denied permission to. enlist, were apprehended and returned to be pun- 
 ished because they violated a discipline which interfered with their 
 wish to be numbered as part of a forlorn hope. 
 
 Hardly less remarkable than the act itself was the news that Hob- 
 son and his men escaped alive, a messenger from the Spanish admiral, 
 under a truce flag, advising Admiral Sampson that every one of the 
 eight was alive, well, and being treated as men who follow the profes- 
 sion of arms treat prisoners whose bravery they are compelled to admire. 
 Hobson and his crew were eventually exchanged for Spanish prisoners 
 held by the Americans, a truce having been established for that pur- 
 pose. 
 
 The fighting qualities of the American soldier and his adaptability 
 to new conditions were shown in the five days' fight between Lieu- 
 tenant-Colonel Huntington's battalion of marines and 
 the Spanish forces at Guantanamo. The marines THE FIRST FORCE 
 
 landed from the transport Panther on Friday, June 
 10, and on the following day a rush attack was made 
 on them by Spanish troops. The Spaniards fought from cover until 
 midnight, discoverable only by flashes from their guns, at which the 
 marines fired volleys. Sunday brought no rest, and a moment of weak- 
 ening or of panic would have resulted in the annihilation of the com- 
 mand. The arrival of re-enforcements of Cubans under Lieutenant 
 Colonel Enrique Thomas 011 Monday brought a good supply of native 
 guides, placing it within the power of the beleaguered corps to take the 
 offensive. The battle upon the hills of Cusco the following day resulted, 
 and the result was decisive victory for the allied Americans and 
 Cubans. 
 
 The scene of the final engagement is reached by a long, tortuous 
 footpath extending in a generally southern direction from the camp. 
 A tangled brush of cactus, briers and thorny vines, impenetrable except
 
 508 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 
 
 with the aid of a machete, and so dense that an object ten yards away 
 cannot be distinguished, pushes in from either side, often hanging so 
 low that it is possible to pass only by bending to the knees. For about 
 three miles the trail doubles back and forth through this tangled skein 
 of semi-tropical foliage, keeping to rocky gulches, but ascending grad- 
 ually to the first ridge of the Cusco hills. The pass here is about 350 
 feet high, 200 feet above the summit of the hill upon which Camp 
 McCalla stands. From this on the trail extends three miles farther 
 south, between two ranges of lofty, bush-grown mountains 450 feet 
 high, to the seashore, where once stood the Cusco plantation, which 
 has given name and identity to this rough promontory. 
 
 The general plan of the battle was, in brief, a quick movement 
 about the enemy's left flank, turning it and getting into a commanding 
 position in the rear. The enemy had opened the attack upon our forti- 
 fied camp at 8 o'clock in the morning of June 14, with an advance 
 column comprising the 3d, or Principe, regiment of the Spanish infantry 
 and one regiment of guerrillas, the Ecuadeas of 
 
 MARINES AND Guantanamo. Coming down the main pass to sup- 
 CUBANSINTHE * * * 
 
 BATTLE OF CUSCO P them were the 64th, or Sunancas, and the 3oth, 
 
 or Toledo, regiments of Spanish infantry. Two more 
 regiments of Spanish regulars were on the w r ay from Guantanamo over- 
 land, expecting to arrive in time to re-enforce the assault upon the 
 camp. The Spanish were in full retreat before they arrived. 
 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Huntingdon had already strongly intrenched 
 himself upon the hill, and, had his men been fresh, he might have safely 
 stood upon the defensive against almost any force. But the fighting 
 had already been going on for four days. Lack of sleep had weakened 
 the nervous strength of the men, and indications were not wanting 
 the night before to show that the marines were in no condition to do 
 themselves justice in the trenches. 
 
 Under these circumstances the colonel decided wisely to put it on 
 the offensive. Immediately after the attack was begun upon the front 
 of the camp he detached Captain Elliott of Company C, a hardy old 
 soldier and fighter, to turn the enemy's left wing. Leaving the camp 
 under the bluffs 6f the shore at the western side, he marched his com- 
 mand at quick time along the narrow path skirting the shore seven
 
 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 509 
 
 miles around the outer slope of the mountain in the enemy's left and 
 rear. Captain Spicer of Company D followed, his objective being a 
 point on the ridge on the left of Captain Elliott. Each was assisted 
 by detachments of Cubans, fifty in all, who were to get around in the 
 enemy's rear. 
 
 The plan of attack was almost completely successful. The enemy 
 did not discover the flanking movement until Captain Elliott and his 
 command were a mile on their way toward the mountain top. Then the 
 race began for the lofty position six miles through tangled brush and 
 cactus, two opposing forces rushing at breakneck speed up opposite 
 sides of the mountain, and victory the stake! It was a race to the 
 death under a torrid sun that threatened the same penalty to victor 
 or vanquished. Happily Captain Elliott, despite his CO years, had the 
 lead and w r on the position. He gained the summit of the mountain 
 just as the enemy reached the top of a round knob in the center of the 
 main pass at its base. The enemy immediately betrayed its in- 
 ferior position by an irregular fire, and he answered with fierce 
 volleys. 
 
 In the meantime Captain Spicer arrived just in time to receive the 
 enemy's hottest fire as he appeared on the crest of the hill. It was the 
 signal for the men to lie down and to augment Captain Elliott's regular 
 volleys. Torrent upon torrent of burning hail sw T ept the knob where 
 the enemy paused. The marines, confident in their position, shot with 
 no more excitement than if they were engaged in regular rifle practice, 
 sometimes commenting and advising upon the range and the conditions 
 of the shooting. 
 
 The enemy fought stubbornly from behind rocks and bushes, but 
 resistance in the inferior position was useless. He began to retreat 
 slowly up the gulch to the eastward. Just then a company of Cubans 
 appeared in his rear, shouting curses and execrations upon Spanish 
 oppressors, and, brandishing machetes, charged the fleeing column like 
 a pack of savages. A second later Lieutenant Magill, with one platoon 
 of Company A, appeared on the ridge over the gulch, having forced the 
 enemy's front back over the first range of hills. 
 
 From this moment the enemy's retreat became a rout. lie was 
 caught upon three sides, and his only escape was up the steep sides of
 
 510 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 
 
 the mountains at the head of the gulch. The slaughter here for a few 
 
 minutes was frightful. Volley upon volley was hurled 
 
 J2S7?JS55? into the scattering ranks from Lieutenant MagilFs 
 
 O* 1HL AMERICAN 
 
 ''JOLLIES." command, scarcely 300 yards away, and the wonder is 
 that any escaped. But, unfortunately, at just this 
 instant, when the enemy was all but caught within a pocket lined 
 with rifles, the Dolphin, stationed near the shore, began to fire straight 
 into the gulch. She was in no position to get the right range, and all 
 of her shells went wild, striking much nearer our own ranks than the 
 enemy's. 
 
 In the face of this fire it was impossible to pursue the fleeing enemy. 
 As he disappeared over the mountains many were caught on the run 
 at long range and brought down like scurrying hares. But, once over 
 the ridge, he was safe. 
 
 In the meantime the Cubans had driven out the last Spaniard 
 from the old Cusco house and set it on fire. In the neighborhood 
 they captured Lieutenant Francisco Batiste, a commander of guerril- 
 las, two of his company and fifteen Spanish soldiers of the three regi- 
 ments engaged. At a well fifty yards beyond the house the Spaniards 
 attempted to make a stand, and a lieutenant and several soldiers were 
 killed. Later an old windmill over the well was raked by shots from 
 the Dolphin, and the well was filled up. By this means the supply 
 of water upon which the enemy had relied in making his attacks upon 
 the camp was cut off. 
 
 The extent of Spanish losses, as estimated by the Spanish and by 
 Cuban scouts sent out immediately after the battle, is 68 killed and 
 about 150 wounded. Our loss was but two killed, and these were 
 Cubans who fell in their last intrepid charge for the Cusco house. Both 
 received wounds in the breast and died shortly after help reached 
 them, uttering with their last breath the dear words, "Cuba libre." 
 
 As soon as it was definitely known that the Spanish fleet was 
 entrapped in Santiago bay, the work of transporting the troops to that 
 section of the island was begun. The fleet of transports, with its 
 guard of warships, left Egmont key, at the entrance of Tampa bay, just 
 before sundown of Tuesday, June 14. The fleet stretched out on its 
 course almost due south in three lines of ships, the battleship Indiana
 
 S OP SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 
 
 leading the right line, the gunboat Castine the center and the gun- 
 boat Annapolis the left. Far to the right and left, at times so far 
 from the main body as to be below the horizon, were 
 
 the scout ships, which not only flanked the moving A FL *^ T 
 column of troopships, but steamed far ahead and fol- YQYAGE TO CUBA. 
 lowed behind the triple line of transports. On board 
 were 16,000 fighting men, besides the men on the warships. The 
 voyage to Cuban shores was uneventful, and on the morning of June 
 22 the first of the troops landed at Baiquiri, twelve miles east of the 
 entrance to Santiago bay. 
 
 Before the boats started for shore with their loads of blue coats, 
 half a dozen warships opened on the underbrush and hillsides with 
 solid shot and shell. For twenty minutes the rapid-firing and machine 
 guns beat the long roll, with the heavy ones coining in with booms 
 and thumps like a great bass drum. The shells ripped through the 
 trees, smashing the cliffs, uprooted great palms and tore up the earth 
 with a vindictive vigor which delighted the soldiers, many of whom had 
 never heard the roar of an eight-inch rifle before. This shelling was 
 simply a precaution. The Cubans had sent word to the flagship that 
 the Spaniards had left the town as soon as the first transport swung 
 into view. Over 8,000 rounds of Mauser rifle ammunition were left 
 behind; many official papers were found in the house that had been 
 occupied by the Spanish commandant. The enemy left several souve- 
 nirs. To the soldier the most interesting were the rifle-pits, which ran 
 in every direction, and the dozen little fc/rts which dot the hills sur- 
 rounding Baiquiri. When the tacticians of the 5th army corps came 
 ashore and saw the natural defenses of the place they breathed hard 
 for a minute, for they saw at once that a more energetic enemy could 
 have held off the whole expedition, warships and all, with a compara- 
 tively small force. 
 
 But luck was with the Americans from the day the last transport. 
 left Tampa. The surf ran high, and it would have been ticklish busi- 
 ness to have attempted to land a few men; it was real peril when it 
 came to landing a boat crowded with heavily armed soldiers. Many 
 boats were swamped. Yet only two men were drowned, and only 
 one was injured seriously enough to get him a billet to the hospital
 
 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 
 
 ship, the Olivette. When taps sounded that night scores of little camp- 
 fires showed that the invaders had pushed straight out into the hills, 
 so that no Spaniard could creep up through the underbrush and pick 
 off a northern man by shooting at him behind his back. 
 
 On June 24 eight troops of the "Rough Riders," four troops of the 
 1st cavalry and four troops of the 10th cavalry, less than 1,000 men 
 in all, met 2,000 Spanish soldiers in the thickets five miles from San- 
 tiago, and a bloody battle ensued. The "Rough 
 ROUGH RIDERS Ri(lers were given tueir first taste of war i n Cubaj 
 HAVE THEIR BAP- 
 TISM OF FIRE. anc * showed the stuff of which they were made. They 
 
 rushed into the dense thickets, regardless of danger; 
 they crouched and fired, or rose and ran with a grim intentness of 
 purpose that left nothing to be desired. There were many old soldiers 
 among them, but one could not tell a veteran from a recruit. Those 
 who were hit in many cases refused assistance rather than take their 
 comrades out of the fight. 
 
 On the extreme right the 1st and 10th cavalry were executing 
 their part of the contract to perfection. The Spanish position was origi- 
 nally formed in a double crescent and the regulars had driven the left 
 wing back until it was well on the left of the valley road. There it was 
 making a hard stand, knowing that unless the persistent Yankees were 
 held in check the Spaniards would be hemmed in, with no avenue of 
 escape. This negative success they achieved no more. In a short 
 time the final charge up the hill was made, with Roosevelt leading 
 the left and Wood in the center, and the last remnant of the Spanish 
 force fled before the impetuous assault. 
 
 After a week of comparative idleness the campaign was reopened 
 on the night of June 30, when the regiments forming the three divisions 
 marched to their positions through the darkness. Those who were held 
 in the road by blockades of pack mules, wagon trains and artillery 
 took to the sides of the road, where the men snatched a few minutes' 
 sleep. It was a march that tested the endurance and tried the nerves of 
 the officers and men. Late in the afternoon a heavy rain flooded the road- 
 bed and turned the stiff clay to slippery, mushy mud, which clung to 
 shoes, growing in bulk and weight at even- step. Some of the regiments 
 began moving before supper, and until morning their soldiers were
 
 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SHA. 513 
 
 forced to quiet rebellious stomachs by nibbling hardtack. It was 
 known that the road to the front was lined by Spanish sharpshooters, 
 who roosted in trees at a safe distance, ready to slide to the ground and 
 take cover in the underbrush. Canteens were emptied early in the 
 march, the men taking the chance of an opportunity to refill them at the 
 streams and small rivers which cross the road. But the leading regi- 
 ments muddied the waters, and the cry, "Move to your positions as 
 rapidly as possible," gave the thirsty men scant time to pick up a supply 
 of water. 
 
 So it w r as that thousands of men stretched themselves flat on the 
 ground, their clothing wet through with the tropical dew and their 
 tongues so dry they were dusty. Scores of men in each regiment "fell 
 out" on the march with reeling brains and throbbing 
 temples, choked by the suffocating heat and humid- 
 ity. Men threw their blanket rolls away, cast canned JULY 1 AND 2. 
 meats, hardtack and haversacks into the bushes, rid 
 themselves of everything save the 100 rounds of ammunition, rifle, can- 
 teen and mess kit the most precious belongings of the soldier. The 
 Cubans reaped a full harvest, for they went foraging early and laid in 
 clothing, blankets and provisions such as never before gladdened the 
 eyes of the insurgents. 
 
 The morning reveille on July 1 found almost the entire 5th army 
 corps in assigned position. Capron's battery opened the ball against 
 the blockhouse near El Caney, and at eight o'clock the first gun of 
 Grimes' battery sent a shell toward San Juan. All this time the cav- 
 alry, infantry and Gatling gun battery were slowly making their way 
 over sunken roads and obscure trails, through Spanish bayonet the 
 wickedest of vegetation finally arranging themselves into an irregu- 
 lar crescent-shaped line, w r ith wide breaks here and there, the bow of 
 the crescent toward Santiago and each end almost touching a battery. 
 
 The Americans advanced by rushes from the first firing line and 
 gave the Spaniards a distinct shock every time. Every rush meant a 
 gain of from ten to fifty yards, and the only check to our advance 
 during the day came when the 6th and 16th infantry and rough riders 
 tried to carry Marianoje hill. After the first unsuccessful trial the 
 Gatlings were brought forward, and, while our boys were rushing up
 
 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 
 
 the slope, the Gatling guns swept tlie intrenchments, weakening the 
 Spanish fire materially. The Spanish ran down the slope back to their 
 rifle-pits when our men got close to them, and scores of them were shot 
 in the back by our Krag-Jorgensens. Over sixty-five dead Spaniards 
 were found in the rifle-pits and many wounded. 
 
 In the course of the fight General Wheeler, who was carried to 
 the field on a litter, rode by, sitting erect on his bay horse. He was 
 one of the few r who did not deign to stoop to the flying shells or pay 
 the least heed to the bullets that whistled thick about him. He seemed 
 particularly in his element. At one time he called: "Keep at 'em! The 
 Yankees are falling back." Then he corrected himself. "I mean the 
 Spaniards," he said. But a great laugh went up and the good old 
 general joined in it heartily. 
 
 When night fell the enemy had been driven back from the line of 
 intrenched hills, El Caney and San Juan hill had been taken, and the 
 last hostile gun on these advanced lines of the Spanish had been 
 silenced. But the cost of the victory was terrible. Seventeen hundred 
 and fifty-two of the brave boys in blue had been either killed or 
 wounded. 
 
 On July 3 General Shafter sent the following communication to 
 General Toral, the Spanish commander in the province of Santiago: 
 
 Headquarters of United States Forces, Near San Juan River, 
 
 Cuba, July 3, 8:30 A. M. To the Commanding General of the 
 
 rn\rn4T?TvirFXT Spanish Forces. Santiago de Cuba Sir: I shall 
 
 UUJlBAKDjlLjM * 7 ~ . 
 
 OF SANTIAGO obliged, unless you surrender, to shell Santiago 
 
 IS THREATENED ^ e ^ tu ^ )a - Please inform the citizens of foreign coun- 
 tries and all women and children that they should 
 leave the city before 10 o'clock to-morrow morning. Very respectfully, 
 your obedient servant, W. R. SHAFTER, 
 
 Major-General, U. S. A. 
 
 General Toral made this reply: 
 
 Santiago de Cuba, July 3, 2 P. M. Ris Excellency, the General 
 Commanding the Forces of the United States, San Juan River Sir: 
 I have the honor to reply to your communication of to-day, written at 
 8:.>0 A. M. and received at 1 P. M., demanding the surrender of this 
 city; on the contrary case announcing to me that you will bombard 
 tlie city, and asking that I advise the foreign women and children
 
 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA, SIS 
 
 that they must leave the city before 10 o'clock to-morrow morning. It 
 is my duty to say to you that this city will not surrender and that" I 
 will inform the foreign Consuls and inhabitants of the contents of 
 your message. Very respectfully, JOSE TORAL, 
 
 Commander-in-Chief, Fourth Corps. 
 
 The British, Portuguese, Chinese, and Norwegian Consuls requested 
 that non-combatants be allowed to occupy the town of Caney and rail- 
 road points, and asked until 10 o'clock of the next day for them to 
 leave Santiago. They claimed that there were between 15,000 and 
 20,000 people, many of them old, whose lives would be endangered by 
 the bombardment. On the receipt of this request General Shafter sent 
 the following communication: 
 
 The Commanding General, Spanish General, Spanish Forces, 
 Santiago de Cuba Sir: In consideration of the request of the Consuls 
 and officers in your city for delay in carrying out my intention to fire 
 on the city, and in the interest of the poor women and children who 
 will suffer greatly by their hasty and enforced departure from the 
 city, I have the honor to announce that I will delay such action solely 
 in their interest until noon of the 5th, providing during the interval 
 your forces make no demonstration whatever upon those of my own. 
 
 I am with great respect, your obedient servant, 
 
 TV. R, SHAFTER, Major-General, IT. S. A. 
 
 In order that General Toral might have time to consult with the 
 Spanish authorities at Madrid, this truce was further extended until 
 four o'clock on Saturday, July 9. 
 
 On the morning of July 3 occurred the event that hastened the 
 conclusion of the war. On that day the Maine was remembered in 
 the complete annihilation of the Spanish fleet at Santiago. Admiral 
 Cervera and his officers were taken prisoners, 000 
 Spanish sailors were killed, 1,200 more surrendered 
 
 and nearly $15,000,000 worth of maritime property OVER CERTERA. 
 was destroyed. Our loss was one man killed on the 
 flagship Brooklyn. The long, monotonous blockade off Santiago de 
 Cuba ended in one of the greatest of naval achievements which history 
 records. The unexpected happened when the enemy came out of the 
 harbor. It was met by the expected the valor, steadiness and won- 
 derful gun fire of the men who wear the colors of Uncle Sam and fight
 
 HEROES OF SANTIAGO. ON LAND AND $A. 
 
 his ships. The navy simply obeyed orders and the flag which knows 
 no defeat floated proudly in the breeze on the evening of the great 
 national holiday. 
 
 "Two bells" had gone when the New York, flagship of Admiral 
 Sampson, signaled "pay no attention to the movements of the Com- 
 mander-in-chief," and, accompanied by the torpedo-boat Ericsson, 
 steamed eastward toward Siboney, leaving the fleet in command of 
 Commodore Schley. It was just 9:35 o'clock in the morning when the 
 Infanta Maria Teresa cleared the harbor, fired her forward battery and 
 started to the west. Our ships were bunched some distance to the west 
 of the harbor entrance and the Sunday inspections were in progress 
 as the land batteries opened. Almost instantly came the signal from 
 the Brooklyn, "Clear ship for action," the buglers sang the thrilling 
 call which sends brave men to quarters, where is gained ever-living 
 fame or heroic death, and the fight was on. 
 
 Into the open sea, their big guns playing under the turtle-backed 
 turrets, rushed the Maria Teresa, Colon, Vizcaya and Oquendo. Coming 
 to meet them, slowly at first, but rapidly gaining speed, were the Brook- 
 lyn, Oregon, Iowa, Texas and Indiana. The converted yacht Vixen was 
 ready for any emergency, and the Gloucester cleared for the fight. 
 
 Four great battleships began to hail a terrible tonnage of twelve 
 and thirteen inch shells, the eight-inch ammunition of the Brooklyn 
 shrieked, and wailed, and howled as it flew on its awful course of 
 destruction, and the starboard side of Commodore Schley's flagship was 
 a continuous line of flame. 
 
 As the great ships of the contestants raced away to the west, 
 
 pounding at each other as ships have never pounded before, the sea 
 
 churned into immense geysers as the projectiles plunged into the water, 
 
 the sky darkened by smoke, the atmosphere heavy 
 
 WAISWRIGHT, with saltpeter> out from tne harbor steamed the tor- 
 
 EXECUl I \ L OtFI- 
 
 CER OF THE MAl> 7 E.P e( ^"" oats Pluton and Furor. The Gloucester alone 
 was on guard. Her guns seemingly too heavy for her, 
 the chances were favorable to the escape of the long, low black craft 
 as they sped toward the yacht whose unprotected sides and decks ap- 
 peared to make her easy prey. 
 
 It was 10:02 by the clock when Wainwright "rung up" and started
 
 . HEROES C)P SANTIAGO 6\V LAND AND SEA. 517 
 
 for his adversaries. Before his intention was understood by the 
 enemy he was in between the boats, starboard and port broadsides play- 
 ing furiously, while the Colt machine guns were swung so as to bring 
 their continuous discharge of missiles upon the decks of the enemy. 
 For ten minutes a running fight was kept up, during which time the 
 Spaniards made half a dozen ineffectual attempts to torpedo the 
 Gloucester. The shells from the land batteries fell all about, heavy, 
 black and gray clouds of smoke hung low on the decks, spray covering 
 everything as the projectiles exploded in the seas and sent up great 
 columns of water on all sides. At 10:25 the enemy was silenced and 
 had been driven on the rocks. At 10:35 one torpedo-boat exploded 
 and sank, while the magazine of the other blew up at 11:02. In one 
 hour Wainwright completed his work and furnished proof that his 
 memory was good. He had remembered the Maine. 
 
 With the giants of the opposing squadrons the battle, though com- 
 paratively short, was furious throughout. Steaming to the west, Com- 
 modore Schley had seen to it that the Brooklyn's mark was indelibly 
 stamped on every cruiser of Spain. The flagship alone had five-inch 
 guns, and the scars of their projectiles on Spanish armor plates indi- 
 cate how well they were aimed. Leaving the Oquendo and Maria 
 Teresa to be handled by the battleships, he sent the Brooklyn speed- 
 ing toward the Vizcaya. Closing in, the Brooklyn started half a dozen 
 eight-inch shells toward the ship, which was rated her superior by 
 some, following them with tons of metal from five and six inchers and 
 one-pounders. Half a ton of steel a minute was hammered against the 
 Vizcaya's sides, the Spanish gunners, unable to withstand the terrible 
 fire, were driven from their pieces, and an evident attempt to ram the 
 Brooklyn proved futile. The Oregon came on the scene early, adding 
 to the punishment which proved to be so destructive that the Spanish 
 colors were lowered shortly after 11 o'clock. 
 
 From the wrecked and helpless Yizcaya the Brooklyn sped on 
 toward the Colon, which was making a desperate effort to escape down 
 the coast. The chase was astern and the chances appeared to be in 
 favor of the Spaniard. Skillful maneuvering, however, and the loyal, 
 energetic work of the stokers enabled the flagship and the Oregon to 
 overtake the enemy, which surrendered some sixty miles beyond the
 
 HEROES OP SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 
 
 starting point, at about the place where the never-to-be-forgotten Vir- 
 ginius tried to land its expedition. 
 
 While the Brooklyn and Oregon were pursuing the Vizcaya and 
 
 Colon, "Fighting Bob" Evans and good "Jack" Philip w r ere busy. The 
 
 Iowa, Texas and Indiana, slower than the cruiser commanded by Cook 
 
 or Clark's speedy battleship, devoted their attention to rounding up 
 
 the Oquendo and Maria Teresa. Nine miles west of the harbor they 
 
 encircled the flying cruisers. Outclassed from the 
 
 SPL ^ 1 i I TJ!I ORK start > th e Spaniards fought like demons. Brave men 
 
 Or SHIPS 
 
 AND SAILORS. were serving the guns, and, had their aim been as 
 effective as their courage was sublime, some of our 
 men might have missed their mess numbers and a ship or two charged 
 to the price paid for liberty. 
 
 At 10:15 this particular part of the battle started in vigorous 
 fashion, the enemy attempting to turn about and retreat to the harbor. 
 The lighting was fierce until 10:40, when both ships of the enemy were 
 set on fire by shells from our ships, driven ashore and wrecked. White 
 flags were displayed ten minutes later. Spanish sailors from all the 
 ships attempted to swim ashore, and some of them reached the land. 
 The majority of the officers, including the Spanish Admiral Cervera, 
 were taken prisoners, together with 1,200 sailors. Six hundred of the 
 enemy were killed. 
 
 When the fight began the New York was bound eastward. She 
 put about when ten iniles away and returned to the scene, although 
 not in time to participate in the battle. Admiral Sampson reached the 
 Brooklyn just as Commodore Schley signaled that the victory had been 
 won, and soon after sent a dispatch boat to Guantanamo to file the first 
 official bulletin of the event. 
 
 General Nelson A. Miles arrived at the front on July 13, and by 
 his presence added an effective force to the army around Santiago. 
 Negotiations for the surrender of the city had been going on for several 
 days, and on the 10th, after various conferences, terms were concluded. 
 
 The place chosen for the ceremony of surrender was a gentle slope 
 a little way in front of the Spanish intrenclimenls and about 200 yards 
 beyond our picket line, on the main thoroughfare leading eastward from 
 Santiago and known as the Sevilla road. The cavalry was drawn up
 
 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 519 
 
 in line extending to the left of the road, General Shafter and the escort- 
 ing generals taking position at the right. Their horses were hardly 
 brought to a stand before General Toral appeared at the head of a 
 Spanish column on the road. The Spanish commander and his escort 
 reined their horses opposite General Shafter, and a battalion of Spanish 
 infantry, with buglers at their head, marched before him and on down 
 the line of American cavalrymen at quick-step to the music of the 
 Spanish bugle salute. When at the end of the line they counter- 
 marched, and our buglers chimed in with their salute. It was an odd 
 medley of blaring notes, but extremely thrilling, that lasted until the 
 Spanish were formed in line facing the cavalry. General Shafter rode 
 forward a few paces and was met by General Toral. A few words of 
 greeting, with the aid of an interpreter, and the aid holding the latter's 
 sword was summoned to restore it to its owner. General Toral then 
 presented his junior in command, General Escarol, and General Shafter 
 presented in turn the generals of the corps. The bugle salutes were 
 repeated and the Spanish column marched back to the city, General 
 Toral and his staff following. 
 
 General Shafter's entrance to the city followed immediately, and 
 he, with his escort, was welcomed to the palace by General Toral, 
 where the local council and other civic officers were in waiting. It was 
 now near 11 o'clock in the morning. The governor, seeking to do the 
 honors properly, had prepared a luncheon for the general and his prin- 
 cipal officers. Members of the staff put in the time strolling about the 
 captured city. At 11:45 every one was at his station 
 for the raising of the stars and stripes where no flag 
 save Spain's had ever before floated. Rafferty's THE SPANISH. 
 squadron of the 2d cavalry stood in a formidable 
 line before the palace. On the broad flag walks bisecting the little 
 square were marshaled all the commanding and staff officers in the 
 order of their seniority, General Shafter standing at the front. Behind 
 was the 6th cavalry band and two battalions of the 2d infantry in line 
 in command of that tall, grizzled Indian fighter, General McKibben. 
 Back of the square in the narrow street in front of the cathedral the 
 remaining battalion of the 2d infantry was drawn up. 
 
 All stood at attention. The hands on the clock in the cathedral
 
 520 HEROES OF SANTIAGO ON LAND AND SEA. 
 
 tower indicated five minutes of 12. Lieutenant Miley, Lieutenant 
 Wheeler and Captain McKittrick were at the base of the flagpole, Lieu- 
 tenant Miley, tall and commanding, in the center, holding the halyards 
 and ready to hoist at the first stroke of 12. 
 
 It was a moment of thrilling suspense which can never be for- 
 gotten by any one who witnessed the scene. Every window and por- 
 tico at every side and corner of that little quadrangle was filled with 
 dusky faces; the great stone steps leading up from either side to the 
 w r ide portals of the cathedral were packed, and yet not a sound could 
 be distinguished. It was the hush of awe, and the crouching Spaniard 
 in the shade of the street corner must have felt instinctively that a 
 great power was moving there before him. The clock struck. The 
 flag jumped to the top of the mast above the legend "Vive Alfonso XIII." 
 
 "Present arms!" came from the throat of General McKibben. 
 
 There was a rattle of saber links and rifle locks. The opening strain 
 of "The Star Spangled Banner" filled the air. 
 
 Every hat came off, and our handsome banner floated in the breeze, 
 the world's token of a people's government. Then came the merry 
 notes, "Rally Round the Flag, Boys," and the soldiers of America eased 
 their full hearts with rousing cheers, repeated again and again.
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 
 
 Spanish Government Forced to Sue for Peace Preliminary Demands of the United 
 States Spain Yields to the Inevitable Full Text of the Protocol President 
 McKinley Proclaims the Suspension of Hostilities Blockade of Cuba and 
 Puerto Bico Baised Evacuation Commissioners and Peace Commissioners Ap- 
 pointed The Treaty of Peace Agreed Upon United States Senate Batifies the 
 Treaty Losses of the War War Investigation Commission and Its Beport 
 Cuba Evacuated by the Spanish United States Assumes Authority in the 
 Island. 
 
 DRIVEN to sue for peace by its succession of disasters, without 
 a single victory, great or small, to encourage its hopes, on 
 Tuesday, July 26, the Spanish government took the first well- 
 defined step to bring about a cessation of hostilities. The French am- 
 bassador, acting under instructions from his government, and at the 
 request of the Spanish Minister of Foreign Affairs, called on Presi- 
 dent McKinley and 'announced that Spain was ready to consider terms. 
 Nothing was said at this conversation suggesting what the terms might 
 be, the proposition being confined to the one essential point of an 
 earnest plea that negotiations be opened for the purpose of terminating 
 the war. 
 
 After prolonged cabinet discussions regarding the concessions 
 which should be demanded from Spain, Monsieur Cambon was notified 
 that the President had formulated his ultimatum. The demands made 
 by the President in brief were as follows: 
 
 1. That Spain will relinquish all claims of sovereignty over and 
 title to Cuba. 
 
 2. That Puerto Rico and other Spanish islands 
 
 ,, T _-_ , T ,. , . , -, . , , T i 
 
 in the VN est Indies, and an island in the Ladrones, to 
 
 . . 7 TT . , ^ , -, , , , 7 , 
 
 be selected by the United States, shall be ceded to 
 
 . . , * 
 
 the latter. 
 
 3. That the United States will occupy and hold the city, bay and 
 
 531
 
 522 TNE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 
 
 harbor of Manila pending the . conclusion of a treaty of peace, which 
 shall determine the control, disposition and government of the Philip- 
 pines. 
 
 4. That Cuba, Puerto Rico and other Spanish islands in the West 
 Indies shall be immediately evacuated, and that commissioners, to be 
 appointed within ten days, shall within thirty days from the signing 
 of the protocol meet at Havana and San Juan, respectively, to arrange 
 and execute the details of the evacuation. 
 
 5. That the United States and Spain will each appoint not more 
 than five commissioners to negotiate and conclude a treaty of peace. 
 The commissioners to meet at Paris not later than October 1. 
 
 6. On the signing of the protocol hostilities will be suspended, and 
 notice to that effect will be given as soon as possible by each govern- 
 ment to the commanders of its military and naval forces. 
 
 After an effort on the part of the Madrid diplomats to so modify 
 the terms of these demands as to relieve the Spanish government of at 
 least a portion of the Cuban debt, Ambassador Cambon received of- 
 ficial notice from the administration at Madrid that he was authorized 
 to sign the protocol. At 4 o'clock on the afternoon of August 12 he 
 therefore visited the President's mansion, where signatures and seals 
 were attached to the important document. The full text of the protocol 
 was as follows: 
 
 His Excellency, M. Cambon, Ambassador Extraordinary and Min- 
 ister Plenipotentiary of the French Republic at Washington, and Mr. 
 William Day, Secretary of State of the United States, having received 
 respectively to that effect plenary powers from the Spanish government 
 and the government of the United States, have established and signed 
 the following articles which define the terms on which the two gov- 
 ernments have agreed with regard to the questions enumerated below 
 and of which the object is the establishment of peace between the 
 two countries namely: 
 
 Article 1. Spain will renounce all claim to all sovereignty over 
 and all her rights over the island of Cuba. 
 
 CESSION OF TER- Article 2. Spain will cede to the United States 
 
 RITORY TO THE" ** ie ^ antl f P ner t Ri co an( l the other islands which 
 
 FMTFf) STITFS flre a * P resen ^ under the sovereignty of Spain in the 
 
 Antilles, as well as an island in Ladrona archipelago, 
 
 to bo chosen by the United States. 
 
 Article 3. The United States will occupy and retain the city and 
 bay of San Juan de Puerto "Rico and the port of Manila and bay of 
 Manila pending tho conclusion of a treaty of peace which shall deter- 
 mine tlip control and form of government of the Philippines,
 
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 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 525 
 
 Article 4. Spain will immediately evacuate Cuba, Puerto Rico, 
 and the other islands now under Spanish sovereignty in the Antilles. 
 To this effect each of the two governments will appoint commissioners 
 w r ithin ten days after the signing of this protocol, and these commission- 
 ers shall meet at Havana within thirty days after the signing of this 
 protocol with the object of coming to an agreement regarding the 
 carrying out of the details of the aforesaid evacuation of Cuba and 
 other adjacent Spanish islands; and each of the two governments shall 
 likewise appoint within ten days after the signature of this protocol 
 other commissioners, who shall meet at San Juan de Puerto Kico within 
 thirty days after the signature of this protocol, to agree upon the de- 
 tails of the evacuation of Puerto Rico and other islands now under 
 Spanish sovereignty in the Antilles. 
 
 Article 5. Spain and the United States shall appoint to treat for 
 peace five commissioners at the most for either country. The commis- 
 sioners shall meet in Paris on October 1 at the latest to proceed to 
 negotiations and to the conclusion of a treaty of peace. This treaty 
 shall be ratified in conformity with the constitutional laws of each of 
 the two countries. 
 
 Article 6. Once this protocol is concluded and signed hostilities 
 shall be suspended, and to that effect in the two countries orders shall 
 be given by either government to the commanders of its land and sea 
 forces as speedily as possible. 
 
 Done in duplicate at Washington, read in French and in English 
 by the undersigned, w r ho affix at the foot of the document their signa- 
 tures and seals, August 12, 1898. 
 
 JULES CAMBON, 
 WILLIAM R. DAY. 
 
 The President immediately issued the following proclamation: 
 
 By the President of the United States of America A Proclamation. 
 
 Whereas, By a protocol concluded and signed August 12, 1898, by 
 William R. Day, Secretary of State of the United States, and His Ex- 
 cellency Jules Cambon, Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary 
 of the Republic of France at Washington, respectively representing 
 for this purpose the government of the United States and the govern- 
 ment of Spain, the United States and Spain have formally agreed upon 
 the terms on which negotiations for the establishment of peace between 
 the two countries shall be undertaken; and 
 
 Whereas, It is in said protocol agreed that upon PRESIDENT 
 its conclusion and signature hostilities between the 01?T)FKS HOSTILI- 
 two countries shall be suspended, and that notice to ' CEASE " 
 
 that effect shall be given as soon as possible by each 
 government to the commanders of its military and naval forces: 
 
 Now, therefore, I, William McKinley, President of the United
 
 526 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 
 
 States, do, in accordance with the stipulations of the protocol, declare 
 and proclaim on the part of the United States a suspension of hostilities, 
 and do hereby command that orders be immediately given through the 
 proper channels to the commanders of the military and naval forces of 
 the United States to abstain from all acts inconsistent with this procla- 
 mation. 
 
 In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand and caused the 
 seal of the United States to be affixed. 
 
 Done at the city of Washington, this 12th day of August, in the year 
 of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and ninety-eight, and of the 
 independence of the United States the one hundred and twenty-third. 
 
 WILLIAM McKINLEY. 
 
 By the President: 
 
 WILLIAM B. DAY, 
 Secretary of State. 
 
 In accordance with the proclamation issued by the President, the 
 blockade of Cuba and Puerto Eico was raised at once, and preparations 
 for the restoration of normal conditions in those islands began. Four 
 days after the signature of the protocol the President appointed as evac- 
 uation commissioners for Cuba, Major-General James F. Wade, Bear- 
 Admiral William P. Sampson and Major-General Matthew C. Butler, 
 and for Puerto Eico, Major-General John E. Brooke, Bear-Admiral 
 Winfield S. Schley and Brigadier-General William W. Gordon. As 
 commissioners to negotiate the treaty of peace in Paris, according to 
 the stipulations of the protocol, President McKinley appointed Secre- 
 tary of State William E. Day, United States Senator Cushman K. Davis 
 of Minnesota, United States Senator William P. Frye of Maine, United 
 States Senator George Gray of Delaware and Whitelaw Eeid of New 
 York, former United States Minister to France. The 
 Spanish commissioners appointed to meet them in 
 
 AMI . . 
 
 COMMISSIONERS. ne gtiations were Excmo. Senor Don Eugenio Montero 
 Eios, Excmo. Senor Don Buenaventura de Abarzuza, 
 Excmo. Senor Don Jose de Garnica, Excmo. Senor Don Wenceslao 
 Eamirez de Villa Urrutia and Excmo. Senor General Eafael Cerrero. 
 
 On the 10th day of December, after several weeks of diplomatic 
 controversy between the Spanish and the American commissioners, 
 the treaty was finally formulated in full and signed by all the mem- 
 bers of both commissions. Less than two months later it was ratified
 
 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 527 
 
 without alteration by the United States Senate. The treaty in full is 
 as follows: 
 
 The United States of America and Her Majesty the Queen Regent 
 of Spain, in the name of her august son, Don Alfonso XIII, desiring to 
 end the state of war now existing between the two countries, have for 
 that purpose appointed as plenipotentiaries: 
 
 The President of the United States, William R. Day, Cushman K. 
 Davis, William P. Frye, George Gray and Whitelaw Reid, citizens of 
 the United States. 
 
 And Her Majesty, the Queen Regent of Spain, Don Eugenio Montero 
 Rios, president of the Senate; Don Buenaventura de Abarzuza, Sen- 
 ator of the kingdom and ex-minister of the crown; Don Jose de Garnica, 
 deputy to the Cortes and associate justice of the Supreme Court; Don 
 Wenceslao Ramirez de Villa Urrutia, envoy extraordinary and minister 
 plenipotentiary at Brussels, and Don Rafael Cerrero, general of division; 
 
 Who, having assembled in Paris and having exchanged their full 
 powers, which were found to be in due and proper form, have, after 
 discussion of the matters before them, agreed upon the following 
 articles: 
 
 Article 1. Spain relinquishes all claim of sovereignty over and 
 title to Cuba. And as the island is, upon its evacuation by Spain, to 
 be occupied by the United States, the United States will, so long as such 
 occupation shall last, assume and discharge the obligations that may, 
 under international law, result from the fact of its occupation, for the 
 protection of life and property. 
 
 Article 2. Spain cedes to the United States the island of Puerto 
 Rico and other islands now under Spanish sovereignty in the West 
 Indies and the island of Guam in the Marianas, or Ladrones. 
 
 Article 3. Spain cedes to the United States the archipelago known 
 as the Philippine islands, and comprehending the islands lying within 
 the following line: A line running from west to east along or near the 
 twentieth parallel of north latitude and through the middle of the 
 navigable channel of Bachi, from the one hundred and eighteenth 
 (118th) to the one hundred and twenty-seventh (127th) degree meridian 
 ol longitude east of Greenwich, thence alone: the one TRF . T Y LIMITS 
 hundred and twenty-seventh (127th degree meridian of " 
 
 longitude east of Greenwich to the parallel of four P W TTTPPTICP 
 degrees and forty-five minutes (4:45) north latitude, 
 thence along the parallel of four degrees and forty-five minutes (4:45) 
 north latitude to its intersection with the meridian of longitude one 
 hundred and nineteen degrees and thirty-five minutes (119:35) east of 
 Greenwich, thence along the meridian of longitude one hundred and 
 nineteen degrees and thirty-five minutes (119:35) east of Greenwich to 
 the, parallel of latitude seven degrees and forty minutes (7:40) north,
 
 528 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 
 
 thence along the parallel of latitude seven degrees and forty minutes 
 (7:40) north to its intersection with the one hundred and sixteenth 
 (116th) degree meridian of longitude east of Greenwich, thence by a 
 direct line to the intersection of the tenth (10th) degree parallel of north 
 latitude w^ith the one hundred and eighteenth (118th) degree meridian 
 of longitude east of Greenwich, and thence along the one hundred and 
 eighteenth (118th) degree meridian of longitude east of Greenwich to 
 the point of beginning. 
 
 The United States will pay to Spain the sum of twenty million dol- 
 lars ($20,000,000) within three months after the exchange of the rati- 
 fications of the present treaty. 
 
 Article 4. The United States will, for the term of ten years from 
 the date of the exchange of the ratifications of the present treaty, ad- 
 mit Spanish ships and merchandise to the ports of the Philippine islands 
 on the same terms as ships and merchandise of the United States. 
 
 Article 5. The United States will, upon the signature of the pres- 
 ent treaty, send back to Spain, at its own cost, the Spanish soldiers 
 taken as prisoners of war on the capture of Manila by the American 
 forces. The arms of the soldiers in question shall be restored to them. 
 
 Spain will, upon the exchange of the ratifications of the present 
 treaty, proceed to evacuate the Philippines, as well as the island of 
 Guam, on terms similar to those agreed upon by the commissioners ap- 
 pointed to arrange for the evacuation of Puerto Eico and other islands 
 in the West Indies under the protocol of August 12, 1898, which is to 
 continue in force till its provisions are completely executed. The time 
 within which the evacuation of the Philippine islands and Guam shall 
 be completed shall be fixed by the two governments. Stands of colors, 
 uncaptured war vessels, small arms, guns of all calibers, with their car- 
 riages and accessories, powder, ammunition, live stock and materials 
 and supplies of all kinds, belonging to the land and naval forces of 
 Spain in the Philippines and Guam, remain the property of Spain. 
 PROPERTY Pieces of heavy ordnance, exclusive of field artillery, 
 _. in the fortifications and coast defenses, shall remain 
 
 J KAA>r hliKh,ll Jil . ,-. . -. , ~ ,, , . ,, 
 
 in their emplacements for the term of six months, to 
 be reckoned from the exchange of ratifications of the 
 treaty; and the United States may, in the meantime, purchase such 
 material from Spain, if a satisfactory agreement between the two gov- 
 ernments on the subject shall be readied. 
 
 Article fi. Spain will, upon the signature of the present treaty, 
 release all prisoners of war and all persons detained or imprisoned for 
 political offenses, in connection with the insurrections in Cuba and the 
 Philippines and the war with the United States. 
 
 Reciprocally, the United States will release all persons marie pris- 
 oners of war by the American forces and will undertake to obtain the 
 release of all Spanish prisoners in the hands of the insurgents in Cuba 
 and the Philippines.
 
 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 529 
 
 The government of the United States will, at its own cost, return 
 to Spain, and the government of Spain. will, at its own cost, return to 
 the United States, Cuba, Puerto Rico and the Philippines, according to 
 the situation of their respective homes, prisoners released or caused to 
 be released by them, respectively, under this article. 
 
 Article 7. The United States and Spain mutually relinquish all 
 claims for indemnity, national and individual, of every kind, of either 
 government, or of its citizens or subjects, against the other government 
 that may have arisen since the beginning of the late insurrection in 
 Cuba and prior to the exchange of ratifications of the present treaty, 
 including all claims for indemnity for the cost of the war. The United 
 States will adjudicate and settle the claims of its citizens against Spain 
 relinquished in this article. 
 
 Article 8. In conformity with the provisions of Articles 1, 2 and 3 
 of this treaty, Spain relinquishes in Cuba, and cedes in Puerto Rico 
 and other islands in the West Indies, in the island of Guam and in the 
 Philippine archipelago, all the buildings, wharves, barracks, forts, 
 structures, public highways and other immovable property which, in 
 comformity with law, belong to the public domain and as such belong 
 to the crown of Spain. 
 
 And it is hereby declared that the relinquishment or cession, as 
 the case may be, to which the preceding paragraph refers, cannot in any 
 respect impair the property or rights which by law PROPERTY 
 belong to the peaceful possession of property of all ~ F r< H r R /-. H A v D 
 kinds, of provinces, municipalities, public or private rl y ir BODIES 
 establishments, ecclesiastical or civic bodies or any 
 other associations haying legal capacity to acquire and possess prop- 
 erty in the aforesaid "territories renounced or ceded, or of private in- 
 dividuals, of whatsoever nationality such individuals may be. 
 
 The aforesaid relinquishment or cession, as the case may be, in- 
 cludes all documents exclusively referring to the sovereignty re- 
 linquished or ceded that may exist in the archives of the peninsula. 
 "Where any document in such archives only in part relates to said 
 sovereignty a copy of such part will be furnished whenever it shall be 
 requested. Like rules shall be reciprocally observed in favor of Spain in 
 respect of documents in the archives of the islands above referred to. 
 
 In the aforesaid relinquishment or cession, as the case may be, are 
 also included such rights as the crown of Spain and its authorities 
 possess in respect of the official archives and records, executive as well 
 as judicial, in the islands above referred to, which relate to said islands 
 or the rights and property of their inhabitants. Such archives and 
 records shall be carefully preserved and private persons shall without 
 distinction have the right to require, in accordance with law, authenti- 
 cated copies of the contracts, wills and other instruments forming part 
 of notarial protocols or files, or which may be contained in the executive 
 or judicial archives, be the latter in Spain or in the islands aforesaid.
 
 530 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 
 
 Article 9. Spanish subjects, natives of the peninsula, residing in 
 the territory over which Spain by the present treaty relinquishes or cede^ 
 her sovereignty, may remain in such territory or may remove therefrom, 
 retaining in either event all their rights of property, including the right 
 to sell or dispose of such property or of its proceeds, and they shall also 
 have the right to carry on their industry, commerce and professions, be- 
 ing subject in respect thereof to such laws as are applicable to other 
 foreigners. In case they remain in the territory they may preserve 
 their allegiance to the crown of Spain by making, before a court of rec- 
 ord, within a year from the date of the exchange of ratifications of this 
 treaty, a declaration of their decision to preserve such allegiance; in 
 default of which declaration they shall be held to have renounced it 
 and to have adopted the nationality of the territory in which they may 
 reside. 
 
 The civil rights and political status of the native inhabitants of the 
 territories herein ceded to the United States shall be determined by the 
 congress. 
 
 Article 10. The inhabitants of the territories over which Spain 
 relinquishes or cedes her sovereignty shall be secured in the free exercise 
 of their religion. 
 
 Article 11. The Spaniards residing in the territories over which 
 Spain by this treaty cedes or relinquishes her sovereignty shall be sub- 
 ject, in matters civil as well as criminal, to the jurisdiction of the courts 
 of the country wherein they reside, pursuant to the ordinary laws gov- 
 erning the same, and they shall have the right to appear before such 
 courts and to pursue the same course as citizens of the country to which 
 the courts belong. 
 
 CIVIL POLITIC 1L Article 12. Judicial proceedings pending at the 
 
 A\D' TrmfHT ti me of the exchange of ratifications of this treaty in 
 
 CONDITIONS ^ ie territories over which Spain relinquishes or cedes 
 
 her sovereignty shall be determined according to 
 
 the following rules: 
 
 1. Judgments rendered either in civil suits between private indi- 
 viduals or in criminal matters before the date mentioned and with re- 
 spect to which there is no recourse or right of review under the Spanish 
 law shall be deemed to be final and shall be executed in dne form by 
 competent authorities in the territory within which such judgments 
 should be carried out. 
 
 2. Civil suits between private individuals which may on the date 
 mentioned be undetermined shall be prosecuted to judgment before the 
 court in which they may then be pending, or in the court that may be 
 substituted therefor. 
 
 3. Criminal actions pending on the date mentioned before the su- 
 preme court of Spain against citizens of the territory which by this 
 treaty ceases to be Spanish shall continue under its jurisdiction until 
 final judgment; but such judgment having been rendered, the execution
 
 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 531 
 
 thereof shall be committed to the competent authority of the place in 
 which the case arose. 
 
 Article 13. The rights of property secured by copyrights and pat- 
 ents acquired by Spaniards in the Island of Cuba and Puerto liico, the 
 Philippines and other ceded territories at the time of the exchange of 
 the ratifications of this treaty shall continue to be respected. Spanish 
 scientific, literary and artistic works not subversive to public order in 
 the territories in question shall continue to be admitted free of duty into 
 such territories for the period of ten years, to be reckoned from the date 
 of the exchange of the ratifications of this treaty. 
 
 Article 14. Spain will have the power to establish consular offices 
 in the ports and places of the territories the sovereignty over which has 
 been either relinquished or ceded by the present treaty. 
 
 Article 15. The government of each country will, for the term 
 of ten years, accord to the merchant vessels of the other country the 
 same treatment in respect of all port charges, including entrance and 
 clearance dues, light dues and tonnage duties as it accords to its own 
 merchant vessels not engaged in the coastwise trade. 
 
 This article may at any time be terminated on six months' notice 
 given by either government to the other. 
 
 Article 1C. It is understood that any obligations TRADE AND 
 assumed in this treatv bv the United States with re- 
 
 ^. i i . I, -? , ,1 ,. /, ., CUiuiilijlxLlAlj 
 
 spect to Cuba are limited to the time of its occupancy ^ TTprT AT T\J 
 thereof, but it will, upon the termination of such oc- 
 cupancy, advise any government established in the island to assume the 
 same obligations. 
 
 Article 17. The present treaty shall be ratified by the President 
 of the United States, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate 
 thereof, and by Her Majesty the Queen of Spain, and the ratification 
 shall be exchanged at Washington within six months from the date 
 thereof, or earlier, if possible. 
 
 In faith whereof, we, the respective plenipotentiaries, have signed 
 this treaty and have hereunto affixed our seals. 
 
 Done in duplicate at Paris, the 10th day of December, in the year of 
 our Lord one thousand eight hundred and ninety-eight. 
 
 WILLIAM E. DAY. 
 
 CUSHMAX K. DAVIS. 
 
 WILLIAM P. FRYE. 
 
 GEORGE GRAY. 
 
 W T HITELAW REID. 
 
 EUGENIC MOXTERO RIOS. 
 
 B..DE ABARZUZA. 
 
 J. DE GARXICA. 
 
 W. R, DE VILLA URRUTIA. 
 
 RAFAEL CERRERO.
 
 532 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 
 
 In the annual message of President McKinley, submitted to Con- 
 gress at the opening of the session in December, 1898, he recapitulates 
 the losses to American arms during the war. The total casualties of the 
 army was as follows: Officers killed, 23; enlisted men killed, 257; total, 
 280. Officers wounded, 113; enlisted men wounded, 1,464; total, 1,577. 
 Of the navy: Killed, 17; wounded, 67; died as a result of wounds, 1; 
 invalided from service, 6; total, 91. In the entire campaign by land 
 and sea, we did not lose a gun, or a flag, or a transport, or a ship except 
 the Merrimac, sunk by our own choice and by our own men ; and with 
 the exception of the crew of the Merrimac, not a soldier or a sailor was 
 taken prisoner. 
 
 The foregoing statement of casualties makes no mention of deaths 
 resulting from sickness in the army, a matter on which the statistics 
 never can be complete until ample time has elapsed to trace the health 
 conditions of the men who have come home from the war. It is pos- 
 sible to say here only that the deaths in Cuba from typhoid, yellow fever 
 and malarial fevers reached a very large number in the army, and that 
 in Puerto Rico typhoid and malarial fevers claimed many victims. 
 Hundreds of others underwent illness which did not 
 
 B ^m:Rr^'op E end in deatll but left the men weakened in constitu- 
 
 THE ARMY. tion. The preparations made by the War Department 
 
 authorities for medical and surgical attendance in 
 
 the hospitals and for feeding the army were so shockingly inadequate 
 
 and inefficient that the country justly holds that service to blame for 
 
 the enormous amount of unnecessary and superfluous suffering. 
 
 Early in the fall a commission of inquiry was appointed by the 
 President, in response to the national clamor that an investigation be 
 made as to the management of the war. There was a universal feeling 
 that the responsibility for the culpable mismanagement of many es- 
 sentials should be fixed, and the guilty punished. The commission 
 traveled all about the country, holding sessions and hearing testimony. 
 For some reason it failed to establish itself very firmly in the public 
 confidence, and the feeling existed that a congressional investigation 
 would be required before satisfactory judgment would be pronounced 
 on General Shafter's management of the Santiago campaign. The 
 Presidential commission left an impression wherever it traveled that
 
 THE END OF THE WAR IN CUBA. 533 
 
 it was made up of attorneys for the defense instead of those taking a 
 judicial position and seeking for the truth, let it blame whom it might. 
 
 When finally the commission made its report, it was found that 
 mild rebukes were distributed right and left with considerable freedom, 
 but that the blame was not centered in such a way that any punishment 
 could be visited upon the guilty. It is sufficient to say here that popular 
 judgment did not agree with the commissioners as to the culpability 
 for the unnecessary suffering that had been undergone by our army 
 and that the opinions of most people were very well defined. 
 
 As the end of the year drew nigh and the time of transfer from 
 Spanish to American rule in Cuba approached, conditions in Havana 
 became more and more unsettled. Several American men-of-war were 
 ordered to the city in order that their marines and jack-tars would be 
 on hand to preserve peace in the event of an eruption between the de- 
 parting Spanish soldiers and the exultant Cubans. Finalty, however, 
 on the 1st day of January, 1899, the Spanish yoke 
 was lifted from Cuba and the Americans assumed full SP t^!i^I ER " 
 
 .LKxMY La 
 
 control. Havana was the scene of the most significant CUBA ENDED. 
 events of the transfer of sovereignty. In the thunder 
 of a hundred guns the red and gold standard of Spain dropped from the 
 flagstaff at noon and Captain-General Castellanos, the last viceroy of 
 Cuba, surrendered the island and all it contained to General Wade and 
 General Butler of the American evacuation commission. Cuba was 
 freed from the Spanish yoke.
 
 CHAPTEK XXXVIII. 
 
 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 Value of Personal Reminiscences of the War A Soldier's Diary of the Campaign 
 Before Santiago Disembarkation at Baiquiri Rainy Weather in Camp A Day 
 of Awful Fighting The Surrender of the Spanish A Guard in the Yellow 
 Fever Camp Arrival of American Troops at Havana In Camp Near the 
 Cuban Metropolis Christmas Festivities A Journey from Havana to 
 Cienfuegos. 
 
 AS A preliminary to a series of personal impressions and recollec- 
 tions of the soldiers and sailors who served in the Cuban cam- 
 paign, it is necessary to say that one thing must be remembered 
 always in reading such wherever they are printed. Though invariably 
 interesting, they are not always accurate. This comes from no fault of 
 the men who tell the stories, but from the peculiarity of the condi- 
 tions. The soldier serving where his regiment is stationed, or the sailor 
 on a single ship, has but a limited point of view. What he tells of the 
 progress of a battle may be perfectly correct as far as it applies to an 
 incident passing under his own notice, but utterly misleading in rela- 
 tion to a general engagement. His perspective is at fault. 
 
 Again the same man's judgment on personal characteristics of 
 natives, or their manners of life and their merits as soldiers, may be 
 based on exceedingly limited opportunity for observation. These facts 
 do not impair the entertaining interest of such recollections, but they 
 are to be kept in mind when one is seeking for definite sources of in- 
 formation on actual conditions in foreign lands. 
 
 The selection of personal reminiscences which "follows has been 
 made from letters and newspaper interviews in order to give an idea 
 of the service afloat and ashore in the Cuban campaign as judged by the 
 men who did the work of destroying Spanish power in the island. 
 
 534
 
 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 535 
 
 They were brave men, fighting for their country, doing whatever duty 
 caine to hand and making a name for the United States such as it had 
 not before among the other nations of the world. All 
 
 honor to the men of the army and navy. One of the ALL HOXOB DIIE 
 
 . . . * * . T0 THE MEJ * 
 
 most interesting personal accounts of service in the WHO FI( j HT> 
 
 campaign before Santiago is that taken from an 
 officer's diary and extending from the day of disembarkation at Baiquiri 
 to the surrender of the Spanish forces. It is so characteristic of the 
 service that many men saw that I give it in full herewith. 
 
 "June 24 Began disembarking the regiment at Baiquiri, Cuba, 
 early this morning, and before noon the entire command was on shore, 
 We brought our shelter tents and three days' rations, and to-night we 
 are bivouacked along the road leading eastward to Siboney. To have 
 escaped alive from that transport seems to me like a release from 
 prison. The day's labor of bringing off the men in small boats has been 
 immense, and I am nearly exhausted. Still I am delighted to set foot 
 again on land. To have been cooped up for two weeks on a transport 
 in this climate is nothing less than torture. If we had been able to 
 sleep in our staterooms we might not have had so great cause for com- 
 plaint. But they were mostly below decks, and we were lucky to find 
 a dry place on the hard upper deck where we could lie down in our 
 blankets. The men have had to sleep in bunks three tiers deep. 
 
 "June 25 Marched with the regiment to Siboney, a hard tramp, 
 over a rough road. We are encamped to-night on the side of the hill 
 above the town. It is a filthy spot; but the water is good. Siboney is 
 only a group of single-story frame houses, but it is the terminal of the 
 Juragua railroad, that brings ore from Juragua, five miles in the in- 
 terior. There is a roundhouse and one or two machine shops and lumber 
 mills. I hear that Wheeler's division has had a lively skirmish up the 
 road and drove the enemy back. 
 
 "June 26 Marched twelve miles over a bad trail from Siboney. 
 Suffered intensely from the heat. Regiment halted repeatedly, but ar- 
 rived here in* bad condition. Rations low and no more in sight. Have 
 eaten the last of my bacon and had to borrow a hardtack from the ser- 
 geant. Regret I was not with Wheeler. Rough riders seem to have been 
 hard hit. Poor Capron! Too bad he fell so soon.
 
 53G REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 "June 28 Two days encamped in this place. All last night was 
 
 on outpost duty, and approached very near to enemy's outposts on the 
 
 range of high hills running parallel to the valley through which w T e are 
 
 marching. Came back soaked to the skin; but I was able to take none 
 
 of my baggage off the transport, and will have to wear these wet clothes 
 
 until they are dry. It was a hard night's duty. After 
 
 1)18 T*! 1 ? F stationing two and three men together at intervals in 
 
 1.1 II- Irl A 
 
 WET CAMP. the manner of Cossack pickets I had to visit them from 
 time to time. Could not get through the brush with- 
 out a great noise, except by crawling, and my legs and face and hands 
 to-day are raw with scratches. Thicket almost impenetrable in the day- 
 time. Eepeatedly caught glimpses of enemy, but did not rouse them; 
 only observed their movements. 
 
 "June 29 Soaked again. Camp is like a mud-puddle. Some of the 
 men have built cots out of bamboo poles to keep them off the wet ground. 
 I awoke this morning to find myself surrounded by water, my blanket 
 wet and not a dry spot in sight. This afternoon the sun shone for a 
 few minutes; but the rising vapor made us only more wretched. Got a 
 ration of white beans to-day, and had one good meal. 'Don't eat man- 
 goes, either raw or stewed,' is the advice of a man who has experi- 
 mented and feels the consequences. 
 
 "June 30 There's trouble ahead to-morrow. Broke camp suddenly 
 this afternoon, and have been marching forward along the main trail 
 leading to Santiago ever since, and it's midnight now. Am told that 
 the enemy's outposts are only a few hundred yards ahead of us, at El 
 Poso, though I believe they will not make a stand there, and we shall 
 easity drive them into the city. A more difficult march I have never 
 heard of. We were told to come along the main trail, and ever since 
 we started we have been jammed first on one flank and then on the other 
 by regiments pushing into the trail and trying to advance at the same 
 time. Road muddy and confusion frightful. Snatched a few minutes 
 to write this, because can't tell what ma} 7 happen to-morrow. We rest 
 here, getting what sleep we can on the bare ground, for two hours. At 
 3 o'clock we take up our advance, expecting to engage the enemy at day- 
 break. 
 
 "July 1 A day of awful fighting. I write this while I watch a
 
 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 537 
 
 detail of men throw up intrenckments on the hill we took this after- 
 noon, though we are more than decimated. I am the only commissioned 
 officer left in my company think of it; but three weeks away from the 
 Point, and I have a company! Occasional shots come from enemy's 
 lines. I can just make them out in the moonlight a thin, yellow line 
 along a low ridge between us and the outskirts of Santiago. We have 
 been victorious, but at a. frightful cost; and after 
 
 l" 1 Tl \TTTT' 
 
 marching since earlv morning, Iving for two hours in 
 
 SAN 
 
 a creek up to our waists and charging at double time AND 
 
 up this hill we have nothing to eat. General Kent has 
 
 just sent over to borrow two hardtacks of Captain -- . Really 
 
 I don't see how we are to get rations up here. The road as far back as 
 
 I have seen it is knee-deep with mud. 
 
 "July 3 All right again, though it was near enough. Early Sat- 
 urday morning I was standing behind the trenches when a shot passed 
 across the small of my back. It grazed my backbone and knocked me 
 down. I was taken back to the hospital, but only a very little treatment 
 was necessary. I rested yesterday and walked back to rejoin command 
 this afternoon. I am becoming horribly tired and feel weak, but other- 
 wise I am well. Rations are still short. I understand sharpshooters 
 are keeping back our pack-train. Cervera's fleet le^t the harbor yester- 
 day, and, I understand, it was smashed. The enemy attacked the lines 
 to the right of us last night, but only two men were hit. 
 
 "July 4 There is some prospect of sleep to-night, for the first time 
 since Friday, when we took this hill. To-day Shafter sent in a demand 
 for the surrender of the city under a flag of truce and the answer will 
 be made to-morrow. Got a can of tomatoes and some tobacco from the 
 commissary to-da}*. We are all still on short rations of bacon, hard- 
 tack and coffee. Haven't seen sugar for a week. 
 
 "July 5 Went down to headquarters, which is located near where 
 we camped a week ago, and brought up some rations. Enemy's sharp- 
 shooters pay no heed to truce or the red cross. As I crossed a creek 
 saw one of them in our uniform lying on branch of tree over road. He 
 was trying to get a shot at soldiers who were filling their canteens and 
 didn't see me. I picked him off with my revolver. Was shot at several 
 times on the way back. Now the safest place is on the firing line.
 
 538 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 "Lieutenant - of the Ninth tells me our sharpshooters have 
 not been idle. He says one of his sergeants picked the Spanish General 
 Linares off a white horse yesterday at 1,200 yards. 
 
 "July 6 Toral, the Spanish general who succeeded Linares, seems 
 to want fight. They say his answer to Shafter was a sharp refusal to 
 surrender, and a reminder that the fever and climate might soon weaken 
 us. There has not been much sickness thus far, and yet after what 
 we have been through since landing in Cuba there are plenty of men 
 who look as if a very little more would lay them out. 
 
 "July 7 The rain has found us again. Trenches are full of water, 
 but we have to stay in them, though we are soaked to the skin. The 
 army poncho is a fraud. A good shower wets it through within fifteen 
 minutes. Last night the worst electrical storm I ever witnessed struck 
 us. Lightning played about the summit of the hill here for hours. It 
 was worse than being under fire. In fact, my sensations under fire 
 amount to nothing, except when a battery is around. I can't help dodg- 
 ing every time a field piece is discharged. 
 
 "July 8 Still it rains. I haven't had a change of underclothing for 
 two weeks, and I see no prospect of getting these I have on washed. 
 The sun shines only a half-hour in the morning, and 
 * nave nothing to wear while these are drying. We are 
 
 OF RAIN. getting rations slowly now. But this truce is becom- 
 
 ing tiresome. I hear the enemy offers to evacuate if 
 they can march out \vith their arms and the honors of war. The whole 
 army raves at the proposal, but it has been referred to Washington. 
 
 "July 9 Still it rains. Had a touch of malaria last night, but was 
 given some quinine and feel better. I believe the truce will end to- 
 morrow. 
 
 "July 10 Bombardment of Santiago began at 4:30 this afternoon. 
 Enemy replied at first with spirit, but several of their batteries were 
 soon silenced. Two modern guns to the right of us caused no end of 
 trouble until our guns found the range. We shortly shut them up. 
 Enemy's rifle fire was also heavy. But it was cloudy when the firing 
 began, and shortly darkness came on and put a stop to the fighting. 
 The enemy is quiet, but a movement at any time would not surprise me. 
 I will get no sleep to-night, for I am on guard.
 
 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 539 
 
 "July 11 The enemy is either disheartened or is lying low for 
 another assault. They have scarcely replied to-day to our artillery 
 fire. It is really too bad we have not brought up the rest of General 
 Randolph's light artillery and the siege guns. It will cost many lives 
 to get the Spanish out of their intrenchments, and then to compel them 
 to surrender in the city. I have seen from our hill the barricades they 
 have made at the heads of the streets, and the stone houses of Santiago 
 can all be converted into forts or block-houses. 
 
 "Praise the Lord, I got a can of soup to-day, and Lieutenant - 
 gave me a pair of dry socks. It has been a lucky day. 
 
 "July 12 They say the enemy is giving in. I think he will sur- 
 render. Saw General Miles to-day. His fine appearance cheered us up 
 immensely. 
 
 "July 13 Toral has given it up. I understand it is all settled, 
 except to decide upon the manner of evacuating the city. I never heard 
 a more welcome piece of news. The truth is, I was afraid Toral might 
 be right, and the fever would get us here. Several of my men have gone 
 to the rear with malaria, and two of them are in the yellow-fever camp 
 at Siboney. The constant labor and lack of sleep and food begins to 
 tell on me. That malaria comes back occasionally. I am afraid of it." 
 
 The reader may take an interest in the knowledge that the owner 
 of fhe diary was taken down with malarial fever, but recovered and 
 came north with his regiment. 
 
 Acting Sergeant Anthony Link of the First Illinois Infantry tells 
 a peculiarly dramatic tale of the scenes he witnessed in camp, in the hos- 
 pitals and on the transport which brought him north. Ilis story follows 
 herewith : 
 
 "The First Illinois entered the trenches encircling Santiago July 
 10. For seven days we lay in the mud and water knee deep. Our food 
 was bad. For dinner a piece of bacon would be 
 thrown to each man, and what little coffee was at H ^ RD n ^ ERVI S, E 
 
 BErORE THE 
 
 hand we crushed with our bayonets. At night we gp^xiSH LINES. 
 could crawl out of the pits and obtain a reprieve from 
 our laborious position, as the enemy could not see to pick us off. Our 
 hardtack wasn't always of the best and in a short time our fellows were 
 in an enfeebled condition.
 
 540 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 "At the end of the fourth day nineteen men from each company 
 of our regiment were chosen to form a detachment to guard the yellow- 
 fever pesthouse, thirteen miles to the rear, near Siboney. Many of the 
 non-commissioned officers refused point blank to go, fearing Jhe fever 
 worse than Spanish bullets. I was then detailed as acting sergeant. 
 With 198 boys from the First and four commissioned officers we took 
 charge of the pesthouse. As the trains rolled in we would take the 
 fever patients on our shoulders and carry them into the camp. Deaths 
 were so frequent that we always dug seven graves in advance. For a 
 week our detachment got along all right. Then seventeen were taken 
 down in one day, fifteen the next, twenty-five the next, and so on in that 
 proportion till the commissioned officers and men were either dead or 
 removed save five of us. As we had no superior to consult we gathered 
 up the camp things not infected and moved away several miles. Out 
 of that detachment of 198 forty-nine died, and the greater number of 
 survivors will never be fit for anything in this life. I didn't get sick at 
 the time; a good constitution and kind fortune enabled me to escape. 
 I wanted to join my regiment, but being under quarantine was unable. 
 
 "Next I entered the hospital at Siboney, being made hospital stew- 
 ard on account of ni}- previous knowledge as a pharmacist. It was de- 
 cided to send a lot of convalescents to New York. We were piled in 
 open cars and sent around by way of Aguadores to Santiago. By some 
 awful blunder the train was side-tracked and for six hours we lay in a 
 blazing sun. A Cuban, seeing our extremity, procured water, into which 
 he squeezed some limes, and sold the precious fluid at 5 cents a dipper. 
 Another Cuban had little loaves of bread which he offered at 5 cents 
 apiece, but perceiving how hungry the boys were quickly raised the 
 price to 10 cents. One soldier, delirious from fatigue, hunger and the 
 torrid heat, offered his only nickel for a loaf. The avaricious Cuban 
 refused him. With the strength of despair he struck the Cuban in the 
 stomach and grasped the basket. The other soldiers pounced on the 
 bread and devoured it like famished wolves. I never believed men could 
 be so mastered by hunger. Man} 7 of the convalescents became delirious 
 and their agony under that scorching sun was awful. Finally, after we 
 had suffered the tortures of the damned, the mistake was discovered, 
 the engine came back and we were pulled to within a mile of Santiago,
 
 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 543 
 
 where we were taken on board the Catania of New York. The exposure 
 on the train had made half the enfeebled invalids violently ill. 
 
 "We boarded the Catania August 15 and lay there two days. Just 
 two hours before we sailed iny chum, Ralph W. Lahman, died. His re- 
 mains were taken ashore in a rowboat and laid to rest in Santiago. 
 But for that awful exposure he might be alive now. The Catania was a 
 rotten old tub. Again I was appointed hospital steward, and saw to 
 the full measure the horrors that ensued on the voyage. Going through 
 the Windward passage the choppy sea shook the old boat so that fre- 
 quently waves would leap over the sides and wash the weak men off 
 their cots and dash them against the iron-sheathed sides. This was 
 terrible. 
 
 "In two days half the men were either dazed or demented. One 
 man in his frenzy leaped overboard. We kept seven fellows strapped 
 constantly to prevent them from doing likewise. Upon another occa- 
 sion a delirious patient opened a port-hole, allowing a heavy wave to 
 enter, nearly filling up the middle deck. It swept over 
 the fever-stricken men, carrying away cots and pre- 
 senting a sight piteous to behold. Such suffering! I VOYAGE. 
 slept in a hammock. It took us thirteen days to make 
 the passage and nine men died on the way. For three days and nights 
 the Catania's coal-bunkers Avere on fire. This added to the general 
 horror. 
 
 "When Montauk Point Avas reached the weakest were taken off at 
 once, but the stronger convalescents Avere kept on board two days 
 longer. We were fed well at Montauk Point, but for the most part the 
 kind care and treatment came too late. Coming back to Chicago we 
 Avere giA T en grand receptions. I shall neA T er forget how the warm- 
 hearted people in Pennsylvania treated us. 
 
 "When we reached Chicago many fathers, mothers, sisters and 
 brothers could not recognize their own boys. I lost forty-seA r en and one- 
 half pounds during the four months' campaign." 
 
 So much has been printed heretofore of the experiences during the 
 Santiago campaign that greater interest remains now in the stories of 
 Cuba as it is to-day, as seen by the men who are noAV in service in that 
 island. The Second Regiment of Illinois Infautrv has been on active
 
 544 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 duty there since early in the winter and many interesting letters have 
 come from soldiers in the regiment. 
 
 Sergeant S. T. Hunter of Company L, Second Illinois Volunteers In- 
 fantry, says, concerning the landing of the regiment in Cuba and their 
 subsequent experience: 
 
 "As we steamed slowly in past Morro castle thousands of. Spanish 
 soldiers filled with curiosity lined its walls and watched us. On one 
 side were the frowning walls of Morro and on the other the sand bat- 
 teries of Punta castle. Just as we were passing these forts our band 
 struck up 'The Star-Spangled Banner,' and as the first strains were 
 heard we gave a cheer that must have been heard for miles. The next 
 castle we passed was La Cabanas, then De La Fuerza battery, and then 
 Casa Blanca, all filled with Spanish soldiers. These forts are on a high 
 bluff of solid stone, about 125 feet above the narrow entrance to the 
 harbor. You can imagine how proud we all feel to know that the Second 
 Illinois was the first volunteer regiment picked out to form the corps 
 that was to have taken this Gibraltar of America. 
 
 "As we entered the harbor a cheer went up from the 2,800 men on 
 board. We saw for the first time the fine United States cruiser New 
 York, with its big guns glistening in the sunlight. Our flag was lowered 
 as a salute, and as quick as a flash she answered back with a salute of 
 eleven guns, the sound of which made our throbbing hearts beat as they 
 had never beat before. 
 
 "We anchored at one of the docks, and in a short time a crowd of 
 Cubans was at work unloading the baggage. We did not leave the ship 
 until two days later. Part of the time was spent in looking at the 
 wreck of the Maine, which lay about 100 yards away. Very little re- 
 mains to be seen except a mass of twisted steel and the fighting top. 
 It must have been a powerful mine that sent this gallant ship to the 
 bottom. 
 
 "Saturday noon we left the transport and started for the camp, 
 nine miles away. We marched down some of the main streets of the city 
 between two human walls of Cubans and Spaniards, and at every step 
 were greeted with hoarse shouts of 'Viva Cuba Libre' and 'Viva Los 
 Americanos.' Men slapped and hugged one another and the women 
 knelt down and prayed and kissed one another, Some held naked chil-
 
 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 545 
 
 crjii up to the windows, which have heavy iron bars instead of glass in 
 tl;eni. I shall never forget the sight of those women and children. They 
 had a sickly yellowish hue on their faces, and each one had the marks 
 of poverty and starvation written deep on it. They 
 looked so thin and unnatural that one could not help TROOPS ENTER 
 
 .1 i v i 4. f i mi HAVANA FOR 
 
 thinking they had never seen the light of day. Their PEACE DUTIES. 
 faces were so ghastly that they made me sick. Occa- 
 sionally Ave saw a beautiful woman, but it w r as very seldom. The streets 
 are very narrow few are over fifteen feet wide. 
 
 "The day was very hot, and the march of nine miles soon began to 
 tell on the boys. But every mile or so we halted to rest, so that we could 
 unsling our heavy knapsacks and rest our aching backs. We came near 
 having a fight while passing a blockhouse where a body of Spanish 
 soldiers was stationed. They were drawn up in line on one side of the 
 road. A little Cuban boy about 12 years old was marching along with 
 our company and was carrying one of the boys' rifles for him, and as he 
 passed the line of Spaniards one of them knocked him down with his 
 rifle. Had it not been for our officers interfering we would have surely 
 had a 'mix-up.' We are not allowed out of camp except to go to swim, 
 and then under a strong guard. 
 
 "So far the Spaniards have shot three of our men, but all will re- 
 cover. Our regiment is to bear a very prominent part in the raising of 
 the American flag on Morro castle January 1, the day we take control 
 of the island. Our camp is a fine one; the ground is almost solid rock. 
 We are located on a bluff 200 feet high and sloping toward the ocean, 
 which is a mile away. The New York left last night, but the Texas and 
 the Brooklyn came in as she went out. In a few days the whole Atlantic 
 squadron will be here. The name of our camp has been changed to 
 Camp Columbia. Within a short walk from here are orange and banana 
 groves; also tall cocoanut trees. And a mile away is a Spanish fort 
 surrounded by five rows of barbed-wire fence, each fence five feet high. 
 Everywhere one can see how well they had prepared to receive us. We 
 have large hospital tents for every six men, and all have folding cots. 
 The only fruit we are allowed to eat is oranges. There are a few cases 
 of vellow fever about three miles awav from here, but the doctors sav 
 
 \j */ 
 
 we are in. no danger."
 
 546 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 Raymond C. Haigh writes as follows, the letter being dated at Ua- 
 vana, December 18, 1898: 
 
 "We are in camp at last and such a place! There is a town about 
 two miles away where they have yellow fever. We are not allowed out- 
 side the camp, and if one does go outside the limits he is put in a tent by 
 himself for ten days. We left Savannah on the night of the 13th and 
 arrived at Havana at 9:30 the morning of the 15th. We had a swell trip 
 on the Mobile a fine boat. The sea was not at all rough, so none of us 
 were sea-sick at least enough to count. We saluted Morro castle, a 
 wonderfully strong place and one that we would have had our own 
 troubles in taking. We anchored right alongside the wreck of the 
 Maine. All you can see of the wreck is the mast and some iron sticking 
 out of the water. It looks just like the pictures you see of it. The New 
 York and the gunboat Topeka saluted us, firing thirteen guns each. 
 We were packed up and ready to leave at 6 o'clock, but we had to stand 
 in heavy marching order over an hour before we got off the boat. We 
 then started on the worst march of my life. 
 
 "Our camp is about twelve miles from the city, which is very dirty. 
 The first part of our march was through the Spanish part of the town, 
 and of course we did not receive much of a welcome, but when we struck 
 the Cuban part of the town such a welcome! Why, the people just went 
 crazy. All they could say was 'Long live America.' The people had 
 hardly any clothes on small children none at all. When we stopped 
 any place to get a drink they gave us wine and all the cigars we wanted, 
 and maybe you think the cigars were not fine. When I come home I will 
 bring some if possible, and I cannot get out of this place any too quick, 
 I can promise you that. A person's life is not worth much in this laud. 
 
 "Our mail man was shot in the leg last night, also the driver, and 
 we had not been in camp over three hours. The Spanish soldiers are 
 camped right by us, and they would just as soon shoot as look at you. 
 One of the North Carolina lieutenants was shot while burying one 
 of their men. The soldier was taken sick at night and died next 
 morning. We all think he had the yellow fever, but, of course, the 
 doctors say not. The boys are all knocked out to-day. W r e were the 
 only regiment that had to make the march iu heavy marching order. It 
 was enough to kill us, but it looks as if our officers have no pity on us,
 
 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 54? 
 
 We had to pitch our tents after getting to camp, and did not have a 
 thing to eat until this morning, and then only bread and coffee, but 
 we are going to get meat for, dinner. 
 
 "Our camp is near the ocean, but there are all kinds of dead 
 animals around us and it does not smell any too good. The air is 
 full of buzzards. They light right on the tents. 
 
 Water is very hard to get. It has to be carried HOW SOLDIERS 
 .. . . ARE ENCAMPED 
 
 over five miles in kegs. I have not been able to KEAR HAVANA. 
 
 wash since I left the boat, and my face and hands 
 are a sight. But they are going to march us to the river this after- 
 noon and we'll have a swim." 
 
 Ben K. Howard, a private encamped in Cuba, wrote to his mother, 
 describing Christmas festivities in camp and sending a picture of the 
 opening of his Christmas box. Concerning the camp in Cuba he says, 
 under date of December 21: 
 
 "At last I am in camp, eight miles from Havana, after being on 
 duty on wagon trains since we landed on the 15th or, rather, got off 
 the boat, for we arrived on the 13th but stayed on the boat until the 
 15th. The camp is about a mile from the ocean, on high ground, and 
 we can see the ocean and surrounding country. We have large brown 
 tents, six men to a tent, which are very nice, and cots to sleep on. I 
 went for a swim in a creek about a mile from here yesterday, and 
 after the swim walked four miles to a town called Marianao, on the 
 coast, and met a lot of Cuban soldiers, who treated me fine. 
 
 "While in town on that wagon-train detail I got to see Havana 
 right. The Spanish soldiers shook hands with me, gave me rosettes off 
 their hats and Mauser bullets and generally treated me well. I visited 
 the Hotel Inglaterra, where the riot was, and saw the bullet holes 
 through the glass and in the staircase. I saw Morro castle and the 
 underground passage and have been in the Spanish garrisons here. I 
 have handled the first American flag that waved in Havana the one 
 the piece you sent speaks about. 
 
 "Water has to be carried a mile and each man is allowed only 
 a gallon a day. We cannot leave camp officers or men to go to 
 Havana except on special details, as we have no business there until Jan- 
 uary 1, when all the Spaniards must be gone. As I write I suppose you
 
 Us REMINISCENCES OP THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 have the base burner booming, but I am in my undershirt which I 
 would like to take off and have to stop every now and then to wipe 
 the perspiration off my brow. I never felt better in my life, although 
 it's hot as blazes, and a fellow has that tired feeling, of course. 
 
 "We expect to do provost duty in the city after the first of the 
 year, therefore I don't think we'll fix up the camp much. I am making 
 a collection of things and will send them when I get enough to fill 
 a box. Our food is very poor and the quantity is not sufficient. I have 
 bought food with what money I had, but it is getting short. Oil 
 (kerosene) costs 90 cents a gallon and meat $1.40 a pound." 
 
 Private F. C. Schultz of Company H, Second Kegiment, Illinois 
 Volunteers, describing the trip of the Second Battalion of the regiment 
 from the camp near Havana to Cienfuegos, Cuba: 
 
 "They broke camp and marched before daylight. How easy it 
 reads, but the Second Battalion will tell you it works harder than it 
 reads. We received orders to have everything ready to pack on wagons 
 at 3 A. M. December 30, 1898, and commence a journey to Cienfuegos - 
 a city of 100 fires so the evening before everybody packed knapsacks 
 and went to sleep, getting up again at 1 A. M. The boys composing 
 the four companies of the battalion (H, F, E and G) were kept hustling, 
 nailing boxes, packing them with luggage and loading them on wagons. 
 then unloading them on the cars. The cars were of three classes, each 
 worse than the other. Springs were forgotten, a great oversight on 
 the part of the builder. But by this time, however, we were pretty well 
 used to roughing it, and as we rolled along toward 
 SOLDlER'S^JOURNEY cienfuegos we en j oyed the sceD ery. We went over 
 
 THE ISLAND. plains and through mountain valleys. As we did not 
 have to march through the jungles we enjoyed them 
 very much. At every town we passed through the Cubans turned out 
 en masse, cheering the 'Americanos' and crying 'Cuba libre.' In one 
 burg a battle-worn and bullet-scarred Cuban flag was displayed, while 
 a band of four pieces played the Cuban national air. We saw the 
 wrecks of many houses, burned by the Cubans or Spaniards. At Ma- 
 tanzas we stopped about two hours, the boys stepping off the cars and 
 taking peeps at the town or chatting with the Spanish soldiers. 
 
 "We reached our camp, about three miles from Cienfuegos, about
 
 REMINISCENCES OP THE CUBAN WAR. 540 
 
 4 A. M. Dec. 31, 1898. On Jan. 1, 1899, Major Dusenberry had officers' 
 call sounded early, and we soon learned that the battalion was to 
 march through the city of Cienfuegos, which only held about 30,000 
 Spanish soldiers, and raise three flags. We started out 300 strong, 
 all as happy as schoolboys at recess. Cuban flags were flying from 
 every house, but most of them had a United States flag above the 
 Cuban colors. Major Dusenberry raised the first American flag in 
 this city over the custom-house. Captain Barker of the navy hoisted 
 the flag over the postoffice and Lieutenant Burns of Company P over 
 the city hall." 
 
 Says one visitor to Havana after the American occupation was com- 
 plete, regarding the conditions of living in the city: 
 
 "American officers who come to Havana and are not compelled to 
 live in the field will find the expense of living in the city something 
 greater than they want to stand. The officers now here with the peace 
 commission and the military board have been looking into the matter, 
 and they say that army officers, after a little experience, will object to 
 being assigned to Havana. Those who are now attached to the peace 
 commission, of which General Wade is chairman, have all their ex- 
 penses paid. The entire restaurant is at their disposal, they are per- 
 mitted to order everything from wine to doughnuts, and the govern- 
 ment pays the bill. With Colonel Lee's military board the conditions 
 of living are just what they will be when officers are sent down here 
 in the future. Each man pays his own bills. Incidentally, his bills are 
 consuming all his pay. Hotels are expensive in Havana. Ordinary 
 comforts and conveniences are extravagantly high, and they are get- 
 ting higher every day. The Spaniards think that the coining of the 
 Americans in bodies will create an extra demand for all goods and 
 provisions and that it is easy to command higher prices. 
 
 "Some of the officers now here will probably have to remain a year 
 or more. Having had intimations to this effect, they are looking around 
 for living accommodations. They have found that a house that might be 
 available for an officer with a very small family cannot be rented for less 
 than $1,000 a year. This rental does not include furniture or even the 
 ordinary utensils that go with an American house. Household furni- 
 ture, moreover, is very dear in this city. With $1,000 for rent, added
 
 656 REMINISCENCES OF THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 to the cost of putting- the house in order and the expense of provision- 
 ing his establishment, life in Havana is placed almost beyond the reach 
 of an American colonel, and what a captain or lieutenant would do 
 can only be imagined. 
 
 "One of the officers who is to remain here is making arrangements 
 to build his own home. He is waiting for the government lumber barges, 
 and with the lumber which they bring he will erect a 'shack/ in which 
 he will sleep and have his servant do his own cooking. This is all 
 right for a gray-haired bachelor who has to be around storehouses all 
 day, but would hardly suit the wife of an officer down here on special 
 staff duty." 
 
 My own memories of life in Havana are exceedingly pleasant. In 
 spite of dirty streets in the older and poorer quarters of the city, there 
 were novelties and attractions enough to counterbalance such discom- 
 forts unless one were compelled to stay in those disagreeable places. 
 In Havana I remember many congenial associations, among Spanish 
 officers, Cuban plotters and Americans alike. It is true that during 
 the years of insurrection one felt it necessary to be cautious in his 
 actions and speech, owing to the constant suspicion that even the 
 American or the Cuban at one's elbow might be a Spanish spy, but in 
 spite of all, there were gaiety and life to be seen. 
 
 Under the American regime all this is improved. From the first 
 
 night I slept on the rough dining table of the officers' mess in the 
 
 marines' camp at Guantanamo bay, I felt the strong 
 
 THE AMERICAN impression that a new era was dawning for the un- 
 
 TVFT T^FXCF 
 
 IN CUBA na PP} T island, with the first landing of American forces 
 
 on Cuban soil, liaiquiri, Sibone}', Santiago all veri- 
 fied the impression, and to-day the people of Cuba are resting happy in 
 the bright outlook before them.
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 Places Where the Attractions for Travelers are Greatest Centers of Commerce and 
 Industry How to Reach Havana Fortifications of Havana Morro Castle 
 Poor Sanitation Responsible for Yellow Fever Picturesque Streets and Shops 
 Hotels, Theaters and Residences Matanzas an Important City Guantanamo 
 Bay a Pirate Rendezvous Santiago de Cuba and Its Morro Castle When the 
 American Fleet was There Other Cities of Cuba. 
 
 WITHIN the last year, Americans have become familiar with the 
 names of many important towns of Cuba which were unknown 
 before. Warfare some limes teaches geography as well as pa- 
 triotism, and the knowledge which our country has obtained of the 
 islands of the East and West Indies during our war with Spain has been 
 an evidence of that fact. Havana, the metropolis of Cuba, has been well 
 known because of its commercial relations with the United States and 
 naturally should have first attention in the description of the cities. It 
 is not, however, the only one of importance and the others are in some 
 instances hardly second in interest. 
 
 In spite of the little encouragement which American tourists have 
 had for visiting the city of Havana, for many years it has been a pop- 
 ular place of resort for the few who have tried it or have been recom- 
 mended to it by their friends. With the attractions it has had during 
 Spanish administration, when an air of constraint and suspicion 
 marked the intercourse with every American, it will not be surprising 
 if under changed auspices and in an atmosphere of genuine freedom, 
 Americans will find it one of the most delightful and easily accessible 
 places possible for them to visit. It is not all pleas- 
 ant, but the unpleasant things are sometimes quite as 
 interesting as the pleasant ones. If the traveler forms OF HAVANA. 
 his judgments according to the actual comforts he 
 may obtain, he will be pleased from beginning to end of his stay. If the 
 
 551
 
 552 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 measure of his good opinion is whether or not things are like those to 
 which he is accustomed, he will be disappointed, because novelty reigns, 
 But novelty does not necessarily mean discomfort. 
 
 Havana may be reached by a sea voyage of three or four days from 
 New York, on any one of several excellent steamers under the American 
 flag, and even in winter the latter portion of the voyage will be a pleas- 
 ant feature of the journey. Or the path of the American invading- 
 squadron may be followed, and the traveler, after passing through 
 Florida by rail, may journey from Tampa by the mail steamers, and 
 touching at Key West for a few hours, reach Havana after a voyage of 
 two nights and a day. 
 
 The Florida straits, between Cuba and the Florida keys, which 
 were the scene of the first hostilities of the w r ar, are but ninety miles 
 wide, and the voyage is made from Key West in a few hours. The 
 current of the gulf stream makes the channel a trifle reminiscent of the 
 English channel, but once under the lee of the Cuban coast the water is 
 still and the harbor of the old city offers shelter. 
 
 In the days before the war, Morro castle had an added interest to 
 the traveler from the fact that behind its frowning guns and under 
 the rocks on which it is built w r ere the cells of scores of sad prisoners, 
 some of them for years in the dungeons, whose walls could tell secrets 
 like those of the inquisition in Spain if they could but speak. Between 
 Morro castle and its neighbor across the way, La Punta, the vessels 
 steam into that bay, foul with four hundred years of Spanish misrule 
 and filth, where three hundred years of the slave trade centered, and 
 into which the sew r ers of a great city poured their filth. Once inside the 
 harbor, Cabana castle frowns from the hills behind Morro, and on the 
 opposite shore rise the buildings of the city itself. 
 
 The harbor always has been a busy one, for the commerce of the 
 island and of the city has been large. In times of peace, scores of ves- 
 sels lie at anchor in the murky waters. The American anchorage for 
 mail steamers for years has been in the extremest part of the bay from 
 the city of Havana itself, in order to avoid the contagion which was 
 threatened by a nearer anchorage. Until the Maine was guided to her 
 ill-fated station by the harbor master, it had been long since any Ameri- 
 can vessel had stopped in that part of the harbor.
 
 CITIES AND PORTS OP THE ISLAND OP CUBA. 553 
 
 The shallow harbor of Havana has its entrance from the ocean 
 through a channel hardly more than three hundred yards wide, and 
 nearly half a mile long, after which it broadens and 
 ramifies until its area becomes several square miles. J)A 5? I E rJl? LS 
 
 r 1LI II 
 
 No fresh water stream, large or small, flows into it to OF THE HARBOR. 
 purify the waters. The harbor entrance is so narrow, 
 and the tides along that coast have so little rise and fall, that the level 
 of w r ater in the harbor hardly shows perceptible change day after day. 
 
 The result of this is that the constant inflow of sewage from the 
 great city pouring into the harbor is never diluted, and through the 
 summer is simply a festering mass of corruption, fronting the w r hole 
 sea wall and throwing a stench into the air which must be breathed by 
 everyone on shipboard. There is one part of the harbor know r n as "dead 
 man's hole," from which it is said no ship has ever sailed after an 
 anchorage of more than one day, without bearing the infection of yellow 
 fever among its crew. 
 
 Along the shores of this very harbor are great warehouses for the 
 sugar and tobacco shipped into the United States by the thousands of 
 tons every year. To preserve our national health, our government has 
 maintained an expensive marine hospital service and quarantine sys- 
 tem along our southern ports w r hich trade with Havana, in addition to 
 supporting a marine hospital service under the eminent Dr. Burgess in 
 Havana itself. To the rigid enforcement of this system, and the untiring 
 vigilance of Dr. Burgess, must be credited the immunity which the 
 United States has had from annual epidemics of yellow fever and small- 
 pox. 
 
 The Measure of Spanish Misrule. 
 
 The guilt of Spain in permitting this shocking condition to con- 
 tinue, cannot in any way be palliated. For four hundred years she has 
 had sway in the island, free to work her own will, and drawing millions 
 of dollars of surplus revenue out of the grinding taxes she has imposed. 
 The installation of a sanitary system of sewage, which should discharge 
 into the open sea instead of into this cesspool which lies at the city's 
 feet, would have been the first solution of the difficulty. The threat of
 
 554 CITIES AND PORTS OP THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 danger would have been finally averted by the expenditure of a few 
 
 hundred thousand dollars, which would open a channel from the further 
 
 extremity of the harbor to the ocean eastward. The 
 
 HOW TO OTP'AN 
 
 HAVANA distance is but a few miles and the engineering prob- 
 
 HARBOR. lem a simple one. This and the construction of a jetty 
 
 northwestward from the point on which Morro castle 
 
 stands, would divert a portion of the current of the noble gulf stream 
 
 into the harbor entrance, and the foul pond of to-day would be scoured 
 
 of its filth by a perennial flood which could never fail. 
 
 Vera Cruz, on the Mexican coast, has proven that it is possible to 
 exterminate yellow^ fever, and it is a duty owed to civilization that 
 Havana shall follow along the same path. If all other excuses were to 
 be ignored, the United States for years has had ample cause for inter- 
 vention in Cuban affairs, as a measure of safety to the health of her own 
 citizens, as truly as one man may complain to the authorities if his 
 neighbor maintains a nuisance in the adjoining yard. 
 
 Once anchored in the safest place in the harbor, the mail steamers 
 are surrounded without delay by a fleet of peculiar boats of a sort seen 
 only in the bay of Havana. For a bit of silver, the traveler is taken 
 ashore, the journey to the landing stage being a matter of but a few 
 moments. The journey through the custom house is not a formidable 
 one, for unless there is suspicion of some contraband goods, the customs 
 officers are not exacting upon travelers. At the door of the custom 
 house, or aduana, wait the cabs, which are cheaper in Havana than in 
 any other city of the new world, and they serve as a conveyance to the 
 hotels, which are all grouped in the same neighborhood. 
 
 The streets through which the traveler passes are picturesque, but 
 hardly practical, from the American point of view. Some of them are 
 so narrow that carriages cannot pass, and all traffic must go in one 
 direction. Nearly all of the business streets have awnings extending 
 from one side to the other, between the roofs, as a protection from the 
 tropic sun. The sidewalks on some of the most pretentious streets are 
 not wide enough for three persons to walk abreast, and on others two 
 cannot pass. On every hand one gets the impression of antiquity, and 
 antiquity even greater than the four hundred years of Spanish occu- 
 pancy actually measures. Spanish architecture, however modern it
 
 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 555 
 
 may be, sometimes adds to that impression and one might believe him- 
 self, with little stretch of the imagination, to be in one of the ancient 
 cities of the old world. 
 
 The streets are paved with blocks of granite and other stone, rough- 
 ly cut and consequently exceedingly noisy, but upon these narrow 
 streets front some shops as fine as one might expect to discover in New 
 York or Paris. It is true that they are not large, but they do not need 
 to be, for nearly all are devoted to specialties, instead of carrying stocks 
 of goods of the American diversity. The one who wants to shop will not 
 lack for temptations. The selection is ample in any line that may be 
 named, the styles are modern and in exquisite taste, 
 and altogether the shops are a considerable surprise 
 to one who judges them first from the exterior. Stores AXD SHOPS. 
 devoted exclusively to fans, parasols, gloves, laces, 
 jew r els, bronzes, silks and the beautiful cloth of pineapple fiber known 
 as nipe cloth, are an indication of the variety that may be found. The 
 shoes and other articles of men's and women's clothing are nearly all 
 direct importations from Paris, and where Parisian styles dominate one 
 may be assured that the selection is not a scanty one. Clerks are 
 courteous even to the traditional point of Castilian obsequiousness, and 
 altogether a shopping expedition along this Obispo street is an experi- 
 ence to be remembered with pleasure. 
 
 You notice that everything is made to serve comfort and coolness. 
 Instead of having panes of glass, the windows are open and guarded by 
 light iron railings, and the heavy wooden doors are left ajar. You see 
 into many houses as you pass along, and very cool and clean they look. 
 There are marble floors, cane-seated chairs and lounges, thin lace cur- 
 tains, and glimpses of courts in the center of each building, often w r ith 
 green plants or gaudy flowers growing in them between the parlor and 
 the kitchen. 
 
 You find much the same plan at your hotel. You may walk in at 
 the doors or the dining room windows just as you please, for the sides 
 of the house seem capable of being all thrown open; while in the center 
 of the building you see the blue sky overhead. Equally cool do all the 
 inhabitants appear to be, and the wise man who consults his own com- 
 fort will do well to follow the general example. Even the- soldiers wear
 
 556 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 straw hats. The gentlemen are clad in underwear of silk or lisle thread 
 and suits of linen, drill or silk, and the ladies are equally coolly ap- 
 pareled. 
 
 Havana is a dressy place, and you will be astonished at the neat- 
 ness and style to which the tissue-like goods worn there are made to 
 conform. 
 
 Details of Home Life. 
 
 But come and see the apartment you are to rest in every night. Ten 
 
 to one the ceiling is higher than you ever saw one in a private house, 
 
 and the huge windows open upon a balcony overlooking a verdant 
 
 plaza. The floor is of marble or tiling, and the bed is an ornate iron or 
 
 brass affair, with a tightly stretched sheet of canvas 
 
 J?JLJ H or fine wire netting in place of the mattress you are 
 
 HOUSES ARE 
 
 FURNISHED. used to. You could not sleep on a mattress with any 
 
 proper degree of comfort in the tropics. There is a 
 canopy with curtains overhead, and everything about the room is pretty 
 certain to be scrupulously clean. Conspicuous there and everywhere 
 else that you go is a rocking chair. Eocking chairs are to be found in 
 the houses, and in regiments in the clubs. 
 
 Havana is the metropolis of the West Indies. It has more life and 
 bustle than all the rest of the archipelago put together. If you are 
 German, English, Scotch, Dutch, American, French or whatever you 
 are, you will find fellow countrymen among its 250,000 souls. There is 
 a public spirit there which is rare in these climes. The theaters aston- 
 ish you by their size and elegance. The aristocratic club is the Union, 
 but the popular one is the Casino Espanol, whose club house is a marvel 
 of tropical elegance and beauty. Nearly all these attractions are on or 
 near the broad, shady and imposing thoroughfare, the Prado a suc- 
 cession of parks leading from the water opposite Morro castle almost 
 across the city. 
 
 Band Music in the Plazas. 
 
 In one or another of these parks a military band plays on three 
 evenings of the week, and the scene on such occasions is wholly new to
 
 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 557 
 
 English eyes. It is at such times that one may see the beautiful Spanish 
 and Cuban women. They do not leave their houses in the heat of the 
 day unless something requires them to do so, and 
 
 when they do they remain in their carriages, and are ATT ^ i?I ( J?S OF 
 
 (HI i.ii i. 
 
 accompanied by a servant or an elderly companion. us CUBA. 
 So strict is the privacy with which they are sur- 
 rounded that you shall see them shopping without quitting their car- 
 riages, waited on by the clerks, who bring the goods out to the vehicles. 
 
 But when there is music under the laurels or palms the senoritas, 
 in their light draperies, and wearing nothing on their heads save 
 the picturesque mantilla of Old Spain, assemble on the paths, the seats, 
 the sidewalks and in their carriages, and there the masculine element 
 repairs and is very gallant, indeed. 
 
 Here you will listen to the dreamy melody of these latitudes, Span- 
 ish love songs and Cuban waltzes so softly pretty that you wonder all 
 the world does not sing and play them. On other nights the walk or 
 drive along the Prado is very interesting. You pass some of the most 
 elegant of the houses, and notice that they are two stories high, and 
 that the family apartments are on the upper stories, so that you miss 
 the furtive views of the families at meals and of the ladies reclining in 
 the broad-tiled window sills that you have in the older one-story sec- 
 tions of the city. 
 
 The city of Havana may be said to stand in the same relation to 
 Cuba that Paris does to France, for in it are centered the culture, the 
 refinement, and the wealth of the island, but there are several other 
 towns of considerable importance, and many of them have become 
 places of interest since the struggle for liberty has attracted the atten- 
 tion of the civilized world. 
 
 Chief among these is Matanzas. This city, with a normal popula- 
 tion of about 60,000, is situated fifty miles east of Havana, with which it 
 is connected by rail and water. Its shipping interests are second only 
 to those of the capital, as it is the outlet of many of the richest agri- 
 cultural districts of the island. 
 
 The city is situated on the flats on both sides of the San Juan river, 
 which brings down large quantities of mud and greatly impedes inland 
 navigation. As an offset the bay is spacious, easy of access and she!-
 
 558 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 tered from the violent gulf storms which prevail at some seasons. This 
 makes the port a favorite with marine men. A large amount of money 
 has been spent by the government to fortify and protect the city, and it 
 has been connected by rail with all the principal towns and producing 
 centers of the provinces. Thus it is a particularly favorite port of entry 
 for all the supplies required in the plantations food staples and ma- 
 chinery. Its exports consist principally of sugar, coffee, molasses, to- 
 bacco, honey, wax and fruits. 
 
 The city is built principally of masonry and in a most substantial 
 manner, though little effort has been made to secure architectural 
 beauty. The pride of the city is the new theater, which is pointed out 
 as the handsomest building in Cuba. The Empresa Academy also takes 
 rank equal with any for the excellence of its educational facilities. 
 
 There is no more charming spot in Cuba than Matanzas. The bay 
 is like a crescent in shape, and receives the waters of the Yumuri and 
 Matanzas rivers, two small unnavigable streams. A high ridge sepa- 
 rates them. On this ridge back of the to\vn stands a cathedral dedicated 
 to the black virgin. It is a reproduction of a cathedral in the Balearic 
 islands. The view from its steeple is magnificent. Looking backward 
 the valley of the Yumuri stretches to the right. It is 
 
 MA \TA\7 AS 
 
 1 AND ITS about ten miles wide and sixty miles long, dotted with 
 
 SURROUNDINGS, palms, and as level as a barn floor. The Yumuri 
 
 breaks through the mountains near Matanzas bay 
 
 something like the Arkansas river at Canon City. Carpeted with living 
 
 green and surrounded with mountains this valley is one of the gems of 
 
 Cuba. 
 
 About ten miles from Matanzas, on the left of the road, stand what 
 are known as the Breadloaf Mountains. They rise from the plain like 
 the Spanish peaks in Colorado. These mountains are the headquarters 
 of General Betancourt, who commands the insurgents in the province. 
 The Spaniards have offered Sl,000 reward for his head. Several efforts 
 have been made to secure it, but in all cases the would-be captor has lost 
 his own head. 
 
 In accordance with the Woyler edict 11,000 reconcentrados were 
 herded together at Matanzas, and within a year over 0,000 of them died 
 in the city. In the Plaza, under the shadow of the Governor's residence,
 
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 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 501 
 
 twent3 r -three people died from starvation in one day. The province of 
 Matanzas is not larger in area than the state of Delaware, yet 55,000 
 people have perished from starvation and incident diseases since the 
 order went into effect. 
 
 Matanzas had the honor of being the scene of the first actual bom- 
 bardment of any fortification in Cuba during our war with Spain. 
 On April 27 the flagship of Admiral Sampson's fleet, the New York, 
 the monitor Puritan and the cruiser Cincinnati opened fire upon the 
 forts. The Spaniards had been actively at work on the fortifications 
 at Punta Gorda and it was the knowledge of this fact that led Admiral 
 Sampson to shell the place, the purpose being to prevent their com- 
 pletion. In less than twenty minutes Admiral Sampson's warships 
 had silenced the Spanish batteries. 
 
 Approaching Cuba as Columbus did across the narrow stretch of 
 sea from San Domingo you first sight the long, low promontory of the 
 eastern tip, w T hich the discoverer named Point Maysi. So different is 
 the prospect from that seen at the other end of the island, as you come 
 down in the usual route from New York or Florida, that you can hardly 
 believe it is the same small country. From Maysi Point the land rises 
 in sharp terraces, backed by high hills and higher mountains, all so 
 vague in mist and cloud that you do not know where land ends and sky 
 begins. Coming nearer, gray ridges are evolved, which look like cowled 
 monks peering over each other's shoulders, with here and there a 
 majestic peak towering far above his fellows like the Pico Turquino, 
 11,000 feet above the sea. Sailing westward along 
 this south shore, the "Queen of the Antilles" looks GUAXTANAMO BAY 
 desolate and forbidding, as compared to other por- THE PIEATES. 
 tions of the West Indies; a panorama of wild heights 
 and sterile shores, and surge-beaten cliffs covered with screaming sea 
 birds. At rare intervals an opening in the rock-bound coast betrays a 
 tiny harbor, bordered by cocoanut palms, so guarded and concealed by 
 hills, and its sudden revelation, when close upon it, astonishes you as it 
 did the first explorer. 
 
 According to tradition, everyone of these was once a pirate's lair, in 
 the good old days we read about, when "long, low, suspicious-looking 
 craft, with raking masts," used to steal out from sheltered coves to
 
 562 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 plunder the unwary. Each little bay, whose existence was unknown 
 to honest mariners, has a high wooded point near its entrance, where 
 the sea robbers kept perpetual watch for passing merchantmen and 
 treasure-laden galleons, their own swift-sailing vessels safe out of sight 
 within the cove; and then, at a given signal out they would dart upon 
 the unsuspecting prey like a spider from his web. Among the most 
 notorious piratical rendezvous was Guantanamo, which our warships 
 occupied as a naval station throughout the war. In recent years its 
 narrow bay, branching far inland like a river, has become of consider- 
 able consequence, by reason of a railway which connects it w r ith Santi- 
 ago, and also because the patriot army, hidden in the nearby mountains, 
 made it a place of activity for the Spaniards. Before the war there were 
 extensive sugar plantations in this city, now all devastated. 
 
 The Cobre mountains, looming darkly against the horizon, are the 
 great copper and iron range of Cuba. In earlier days f 4,000,000 a year 
 was the average value of Cuba's copper and iron exports; but in 1867 
 6,000,000 tons were taken out in less than ten months. Then Spain put 
 her foot in it, as usual. Not content with the lion's share, which she had 
 always realized in exorbitant taxes on the product, she increased the 
 excise charges to such an extent as to kill the industry outright. For 
 a long time afterward the ore lay undisturbed in the Cobre "pockets," 
 until the attention of Americans was turned this way. Their first 
 iron and copper claims in these mountains were recognized by the 
 Cuban government about seventeen years ago. Three Yankee corpora- 
 tions have developed rich tracts of mining territory hereabouts, built 
 railways from the coast to their works on the hills and exported ore to 
 the United States. The oldest of these companies employed 2,000 men, 
 and had 1,600 cars and a fleet of twenty steamers for the transportation 
 of its output. The Carnegie Compan} T , whose product was shipped to 
 Philadelphia, also employed upwards of a thousand men. 
 
 At last an abrupt termination of the stern, gray cliffs which mark 
 this shore line indicates the proximity of Santiago harbor, and a nearer 
 approach reveals the most picturesque fort or castle, as well as one of 
 the oldest, to be found on the western hemisphere. An enormous 
 rounding rock, whose base has been hollowed into great caverns by the 
 restless Caribbean, standing just at the entrance of the narrow channel
 
 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 563 
 
 leading into the harbor, is carried up from the water's edge in a suc- 
 cession of walls, ramparts, towers and turrets, forming a perfect picture 
 of a rock-ribbed fortress of the middle ages. This is the famous castle 
 of San Jago, the Morro, which antedates the more 
 familiar fortress of the same name in Havana harbor 
 
 rr 
 
 1U 
 
 by at least a hundred years. Words are of little use TIAGO HARBOR. 
 in describing this antique, Moorish-looking strong- 
 hold, with its crumbling, honey-combed battlements, queer little flank- 
 ing turrets and shadowy towers, perched upon the face of a dun-colored 
 cliff 150 feet high so old, so odd, so different from anything in Ameri- 
 ca w T ith which to compare it. A photograph, or pencil sketch is not 
 much better, and even a paint brush could not reproduce the exact 
 shadings of its time-worn, weather-mellowed walls the Oriental pinks 
 and old blues and predominating yellows that give it half its charm. 
 Upon the lowermost wall, directly overhanging the sea, is a dome- 
 shaped sentry box of stone, flanked by antiquated cannon. Above it 
 the lines of masonry are sharply draw r n, each guarded terrace receding 
 upon the one next higher, all set with cannon and dominated by a mas- 
 sive tower of obsolete construction. 
 
 It takes a good while to see it all, for new stories and stairways, 
 wings and terraces, are constantly cropping out in unexpected places, 
 but as it occupies three sides of the rounding cliff and the pilot who 
 comes aboard at the entrance to the channel guides your steamer close 
 up under the frowning battlements, you have ample time to' study it. 
 Window holes cut into rock in all directions show" how extensive are 
 the excavations. A large garrison was always quartered here, even in 
 time of peace, when their sole business was searching for shady places 
 along the walls against which to lean. There were ranges above ranges 
 of walks, connected by stairways cut into the solid 
 rock, each range covered with lolling soldiers. Steam- THE BA TTLEME>TS 
 ers passed so near that one could hear them chatter- MORRO CASTLE. 
 ing together. Those on the topmost parapet, dangling 
 their blue woolen legs over, were so high and so directly overhead that 
 they reminded one of flies on the ceiling. 
 
 In various places small niches have been excavated in the cliff, 
 some with crucifixes, or figures of saints, and in other places the bare,
 
 564 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 unbroken wall of rock runs up, sheer straight 100 feet. Below, on the 
 ocean side, are caves, deep, dark and uncanny, worn deep into the rock. 
 Some of them are so extensive that they have not been explored in 
 generations. 
 
 The broad and lofty entrances to one of them, hollowed by the 
 encroaching sea, is as perfect an arch as. could be drawn by a skillful 
 architect, and with it a tradition is connected which dates back a couple 
 of centuries. A story or two above these wave-eaten caverns are many 
 small windows, each heavily barred with iron. They are dungeons dug 
 into the solid rock, and over them might well be written, "Leave hope 
 behind, ye who enter here!" A crowd of haggard, pallid faces once 
 pressed against the bars; and steaming slowly by, so close that one 
 might speak to the wretched prisoners, it seemed as if a shadow had 
 suddenly fallen upon the bright sunshine, and a chill, like that of com* 
 ing death, oppressed the heart. Since time out of mind, the Morro of San- 
 tiago has furnished dungeons for those who have incurred the displeas- 
 ure of the government, infinitely more to be dreaded than its namesake 
 in Havana. Had these slimy walls a tongue, what stories they might 
 reveal of crime and suffering, of tortures nobly undergone, of death 
 prolonged through dragging years, and murders that will not "out" 
 until the judgment day. 
 
 Against that old tower a quarter of a century ago, our country- 
 men of the Virginius were butchered like sheep. Scores of later 
 patriots have been led out upon the ramparts and shot, their bodies 
 perhaps with life yet in them, falling into the sea where they were 
 snapped up by sharks as soon as they touched the water. 
 
 It was before the entrance of this harbor and in the shadow of 
 Morro castle that the blockading fleet of American warships lay in 
 wait for Cervera's fleet during the long weeks of June. It was there 
 
 that Hobson rendered himself famous by his glorious 
 F'wxTS mr\ 
 
 RFFORF courage in taking the Merrimac into the very throat 
 
 MORRO CASTLE, of the guns ajid sinking her in the effort to obstruct 
 
 the channel. It was through this narrow exit that 
 
 the Spanish vessels passed on that niemorable Sunday, the third of 
 
 July, to meet their prompt destruction in the running fight with the 
 
 fleet under command of Admiral Schley.
 
 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 565 
 
 It was my pleasure and privilege to cruise back and forth in the 
 shadow of Morro castle with that blockading fleet through part of 
 June and July. It was easy to appreciate the motive that spared the 
 old fortification in all the bombardments of the shore batteries. The 
 American gunners felt that it would be a pity to demolish the old ruin 
 which had such remarkable picturesque beauty and historic interest for 
 the Americans who might come after them. But one shot ever was 
 fired at Morro castle from the guns of the American fleet. A gunner 
 of the Iowa, at the command of Captain Evans, took careful aim at 
 the angle of the wall where the red and yellow banner of Spain was 
 floating on its staff. The shot was a perfect one although the range 
 was more than two miles, and the whole southeast bastion of the for- 
 tress crumbled into fragments of ancient masonry at the explosion of 
 the shell, while every man in the fleet felt like cheering when the em- 
 blem of cruelty fell into the dust. 
 
 The narrow, winding channel which leads from the open sea into 
 the harbor, pursues its sinuous course past several other fortifications 
 of quaint construction, but of little use against modern guns between 
 low hills and broad meadows, fishing hamlets and cocoanut groves. 
 Presently you turn a sharp angle in the hills and enter a broad, land- 
 locked bay, inclosed on every side by ranges of hills with numerous 
 points and promontories jutting into the tranquil water, leaving deep 
 little coves behind them, all fringed with cocoa-palms. Between this 
 blue bay and a towering background of purple mountains lies the city 
 which Diego Velazquez, its founder, christened in honor of the patron 
 saint of Spain, as far back as the year 1514. It is the oldest standing 
 city in the new world, excepting Santo Domingo, which Columbus him- 
 self established only eighteen years earlier. By 
 the way, San Jago, San Diego and Santiago, are really 
 the same name, rendered Saint James in our Ian- TIAGO DE CUBA. 
 guage; and wherever the Spaniards have been are 
 numbers of them. This particular city of Saint James occupies a sloping 
 hillside, 500 miles southeast from Havana, itself the capital of a depart- 
 ment, and ranks the third city of Cuba in commercial importance 
 Matanzas being second. As usual in all these southern ports, the water 
 is too shallow for large vessels to approach the dock and steamers
 
 566 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 have to anchor a mile from shore. Until the American occupation 
 brought new enterprise into the civic administration, the city was one 
 of the dirtiest that could be conceived. All of its sewage emptied into 
 the harbor, which, although a larger bay, is almost as stagnant as that 
 of Havana. For many centuries the mariners of the Spanish main have 
 dreaded Santiago de Cuba, because of the threat of yellow fever and 
 smallpox which always existed there. Under the military governor- 
 ship of General Leonard Wood, a notable change was made in the sani- 
 tation of the city, and enough was learned to prove that it is quite 
 possible to make the cities of Cuba wholesome places of residence if 
 proper methods are employed. 
 
 Red roofed buildings of stone and adobe entirely cover the hillsides 
 which rise from the wharves of Santiago, with here and there a dome, 
 a tower, a church steeple shooting upward, or a tall palm poking its 
 head above a garden wall the glittering green contrasting well with 
 the ruddy tiles and the pink, gray, blue and yellow of the painted walls. 
 In the golden light of a tropical morning it looks like an oriental town, 
 between sapphire sea and turquoise mountains. Its low massive build- 
 ings, whose walls surround open courts, with pillared balconies and 
 corridors, the great open windows protected by iron bars instead of 
 glass, and roofs covered with earthern tiles are a direct importation 
 from Southern Spain, if not from further east. Tangiers, in Africa, is 
 built upon a similar sloping hillside, and that capital of Morocco does 
 not look a bit more Moorish than Santiago de Cuba. On the narrow 
 strip of land bordering the eastern edge of the harbor, the Morro at one 
 end and the city at the other, are some villas, embowered in groves and 
 gardens, which belong mostly to Americans interested in the Cobre 
 mines. The great iron piers on the right belong to the American min- 
 ing companies, built for loading ore upon their ships. 
 
 Fifty miles east of Matanzas is the city of Cardenas, the last port 
 of any consequence on the north coast of the island. It has a popula- 
 tion of 25,000, and is the capital of a fertile district. It is one of the 
 main outlets of Cuba's richest province, Matanzas, and is the great rail- 
 road center of the island, or, more properly speaking, it ought to be, 
 as the railroads of the country form a junction fifteen miles inland, at 
 an insignificant station called Jouvellenes.
 
 CITIES AND PORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 567 
 
 In time of peace Cardenas enjoys a thriving business, particularly 
 in sugar and molasses, its exports of the former sometimes amounting 
 to 100,000 tons a year. To the west and south stretch the great sugar 
 estates which have made this section of Spain's do- 
 
 main a prize to be fought for. The water side of the 
 
 PORT OF 
 
 town is faced with long wharves and lined with ware- CARDENAS. 
 houses, and its extensive railway depot would do 
 credit to any metropolis. 
 
 There are a few pretentious public buildings, including the customs 
 house, hospital and college. Its cobble paved streets are considerably 
 wider than those of Havana, and have two lines of horse cars. There 
 is gas and electric light, and more two-story houses than one is accus- 
 tomed to see on the island. 
 
 But, notwithstanding the broad, blue bay in front, and the Paseo, 
 whose tall trees seem to be touching finger tips across the road, con- 
 gratulating each other on the presence of eternal summer, Cardenas is 
 not an attractive town. One misses the glamour of antiquity and his- 
 toric interest which pervades Havana, Matanzas and Santiago, and feels 
 somehow that the town is new without being modern, young but not 
 youthful. 
 
 Puerto Principe, or to give it its full name in the Spanish tongue, 
 Santa Maria de Puerto Principe, is the capital of the Central depart- 
 ment, and is situated about midway between the north and south coasts, 
 305 miles southeast of Havana, and forty-five miles southwest of Nue- 
 vitas, its port, with which it is connected by railroad. Its population 
 is about 30,000 and it is surrounded by a rich agricultural district. 
 
 One of the most attractive cities of Cuba is Trinidad, which lies 
 near the south coast, three miles by rail from the port of Casildas. It 
 is beautifully situated on high land overlooking the sea, and on account 
 of its mild and very equable climate it is a favorite resort for tourists 
 and invalids. 
 
 Nuevitas, Sancti Espiritu, Baracoa and Cienfuegos are all centers 
 of population with many natural advantages, and with a just form of 
 government, and the advent of American enterprise and capital, they 
 might become prosperous, attractive, and of great commercial import- 
 ance.
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 New Attractions Offered to American Tourists The Climate and the Seasons of the 
 Island The Valley of the Yumuri The Caves of Bellamar The Mountain 
 Chains of Cuba Political Divisions of the Island Popular Divisions of Cuba 
 Caverns and Subterranean Bivers Cataracts and Lakes The Fertile Plains of 
 the Island Coral Reefs and Tropical Islets Marshes Along the Coast Roads 
 and Vehicles A Word Concerning the Accuracy of Maps Railway Lines of 
 Cuba Steamship Service Between the Ports The Isle of Pines and Its Re- 
 sources A New Naval Station. 
 
 AMERICANS will need to learn new avenues of travel in order to 
 become familiar with the attractions of the new lands which have 
 come under their influence. Cuba, Puerto Rico, Hawaii and the 
 Philippines offer their individual and peculiar attractions of scenery, 
 climate, resources and manners of life. The people are different, moun- 
 tains and forests are different, and the industries and resources are 
 different; so that no one need feel that his information concerning one 
 is sufficient to make him acquainted w r ith the other. 
 
 When the island of Cuba, "The Pearl of the Antilles," was assigned 
 a place upon the terrestrial globe, Nature must have been in her 
 most generous mood. Certainly no land beneath the skies was given 
 a more perfect combination of mountains and rivers, forests and plains. 
 Situated within and near the border of the northern tropical zone, the 
 temperature of the low coast-lands is that of the torrid zone, but the 
 high interior of the island enjoys a delightful climate, and the verdure- 
 clad hills, with the graceful palm and cocoanut tree clear against the 
 pure blue sky, may be seen at all seasons of the year. 
 
 As in other countries on the borders of the tropics, the year is 
 divided between a hot and wet season, corresponding to the northern 
 declination of the sun, and a cool and dry period. The months from 
 the beginning of May to October are called the w r et season, though 
 some rain falls in every month of the year. With May, spring begins in 
 
 508
 
 'A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 560 
 
 the island, rain and thunder are of almost daily occurrence, and the 
 temperature rises high, with little daily variation. The period from 
 November to April is called the dry season by con- 
 trast. On a mean of seven years the rain-fall at ITa- RAINFALL AND 
 . ,, TEMPERATURE 
 
 vana in the wet season has been observed to be 27.8 ^ CUBA 
 
 inches; of the dry months, 12.7, or 40.5 inches for the 
 year. July and August are the warmest months, and during this period 
 the average temperature at Havana is 82 Fahrenheit, fluctuating be- 
 tween a maximum of 88 and a minimum of 76. In the cooler months 
 of December and January the thermometer averages 72, the maximum 
 being 78, and minimum 58. The average temperature of the year at 
 Havana on a mean of seven years is 77. In the interior, at elevations 
 of over 300 feet above the level of the sea, the thermometer occasionally 
 falls to the freezing point in winter. Frost is not uncommon, and dur- 
 ing north winds, thin ice may form, though snow is unknown in any 
 part of the island. 
 
 The prevailing wind is the easterly trade breeze, but from Novem- 
 ber to February, cool north winds, rarely lasting more than forty- 
 eight hours, are experienced in the western part of the island, to 
 which they add a third seasonal change. Hurricanes may occur from 
 August to October, but they are rare and sometimes five or six years 
 pass without such a storm. 
 
 Many "globe-trotters" who have never included this little corner 
 of the world in their itinerary, do not appreciate the fact that nowhere 
 under the sun can be found a more perfect climate, grander mountain 
 scenery, more charming valleys, more picturesque ruins, and fertile 
 fields than Cuba offers to their view. 
 
 One of the grandest bits of scenery in the known world is to be 
 found in the valley of the Yumuri, rivaling in sublimity the far-famed 
 Lookout Mountain view and the Yosemite of the Sierra Nevadas. The 
 journey leads over a winding trail, easily traversed by the native 
 horses, up a steep hill, until, after a continuous climb of an hour and 
 a half, the road turns around the edge of a grassy precipice, and the 
 beautiful valley, with its patches of green and gold, spreads away in 
 the distance. The little river of Yumuri winds its way through its 
 flower-decked banks until it reaches the bay beyond, while in the dis-
 
 570 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OP CUBA. 
 
 tance rise the mighty mountains, clad in their coats of evergreen, and 
 over all the fleecy clouds, and the sky of azure blue. 
 
 One of the most interesting trips that can be made is to the "Caves 
 of Bellamar," which may be found about two and a half miles south- 
 east of the city of Matanzas. The journey takes the traveler up a 
 winding and rugged road to the top of a hill, where the "Cave House'' 
 is reached, a large frame structure built over the entrance, and con- 
 taining, among other objects of interest, a large collection of beautiful 
 crystal formations found in the cave. 
 
 Here the tourist enters his name in the visitors' register, pays his 
 
 dollar, and follows the boy guide down the stairs into the cave. About 
 
 150 feet from the entrance a small bridge is crossed, and the "Gothic 
 
 Temple" is reached. The only light comes from a few scattered lanterns, 
 
 and is consequently very obscure, but one can see the 
 
 BEAUTIFUL CAVES millions of crYS tals, the thousand weird forms, and 
 
 OF 
 BELLAMAR. realize that it is surpassingly beautiful. The temple 
 
 is about two hundred feet in length and seventy feet 
 in width, and while it does not equal in size or solemn grandeur the 
 temple of the same name in the Mammoth cave of Kentucky, it greatly 
 excels it in the richness and splendor of its crystal formations and 
 beautiful effects. 
 
 The spectator possessed of strongly developed imaginative powers 
 cannot fail to feel himself in fairy-land. From the gloomy corners 
 come gnomes and demons, and in the crystal shadows he sees sprites 
 and lovely fairies, keeping gay revel to dreamy airs, played on invisi- 
 ble strings by spirit hands. One of the most beautiful objects in the 
 cave is the "Fountain of Snow," a name given to one of the great pillars, 
 called by the natives the "Cloak of the Virgin." Others are known as 
 "Columbus Mantle," "The Altar," and "The Guardian Spirit." 
 
 The island of Cuba possesses a central mountain-chain reaching 
 from Guardiana bay to Cape Maysi and then bending around to the 
 south and west to Cape Cruz, attaining in places great elevation and 
 again almost dropping to the sea level. Cruising along the southern 
 coast of the island, on either side of Santiago, some of the notable peaks 
 rise against the northern horizon. The crest of the Ojo del Toro, or 
 Bull's Eye peak, attains an altitude of 5,100 feet about twenty miles
 
 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 571 
 
 from Cape Cruz. Not far east of that peak is the other notable one 
 known as Pico Turquino, which reaches a height of more than 8,300 
 feet. The region around Santiago is strikingly broken and mountain- 
 ous, with many beautiful valleys and cascades and the most luxuriant 
 of verdant foliage, orchids and other tropical flowers. 
 
 Turning westward from the mountains in the vicinity of Santiago 
 and following the crest of the central chain, the next notable peak is 
 the famous truncated cone near Baracoa, known as 
 El Yunque de Baracoa, or the Anvil of Baracoa. In MOUNTAIN 
 the Cubitas ranges, where the Cuban republic located 
 
 its capital, are many great caves of notable beauty. 
 With alternate depressions and greater elevations the central moun- 
 tain range continues throughout the island, with many peaks which 
 are visible from a long distance at sea. 
 
 The island falls conveniently into three mountainous districts, 
 which may be identified as the western group, the central group, and 
 the eastern group. The first includes the provinces of Pinar del Rio 
 and Havana. It is very mountainous and broken. The northern slopes 
 are w r atered by many small streams. The slope to the south coast is 
 gradual and near the ocean it is marshy. In the interior the country 
 is exceedingly fertile. Here in Pinar del Rio, south of the line of rail- 
 way which connects the capital of the provincew r ith Havana, are the vast 
 tobacco plantations that have made the Vuelta Abajo rich and famous. 
 
 The central district lies between Matanzas and the old Jucaro- 
 Moron trocha, thus including the provinces of Matanzas and Santa 
 Clara. It contains many extremely fertile plains, well watered by 
 rivers, as well as many districts entirely sterile. Both coasts are 
 guarded by chains of reefs and kej^s in great number and are low and 
 marshy except for a few stretches of limited extent. 
 
 The eastern district includes the provinces of Puerto Principe and 
 Santiago de Cuba. The portions north and south of the city of Puerto 
 Principe are quite low and flat, except for the numer- 
 ous isolated mountain groups. The plains of the NATURA ^ )IVISIONS 
 
 OF 
 
 north coast are marshy, becoming sandy and barren THE ISLANDS. 
 
 farther inland. The southern plains of the province, 
 
 although sometimes overflowed along the coast, are in the interior
 
 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 covered with fine pastures and luxuriant forests. The eastern ex- 
 tremity, as already noted, is very mountainous, cut up with copious 
 streams and interspersed with tracts of great fertility. 
 
 There are no active volcanoes on the island, but many extinct ones 
 are recognizable. Earthquakes occur chiefly in the province of San- 
 tiago. Notably severe ones have occurred in 1776, 1842 and 1852. Else* 
 where in the island these convulsions of nature have been rare and 
 much less destructive. 
 
 The political divisions of the island of Cuba comprising the six 
 provinces, enumerating from the westward, of Pinar del Rio, Havana, 
 Matanzas, Santa Clara, Puerto Principe and Santiago de Cuba are 
 familiar to all readers. The seat of government of each of these is the 
 city of the same name, the provinces having been named from their 
 respective capital cities. 
 
 But there is another division of the island which is quite as essen- 
 tial to know, because it is the one most frequently employed by the 
 Cubans themselves in conversation and writing. Beginning at the 
 west, these four popular divisions are known respectively as the Vuelta 
 Abajo or lower turn, the Vuelta Arriba or upper turn, Las Cinco Villas 
 or the five towns, and the Tierra Adentro or the interior country. The 
 first includes the westernmost portion of the island from Havana to 
 Cape San Antonio; the second from the meridian of Havana to that 
 of Santa Clara, the third from the meridian of Santa Clara to a line 
 drawn across the island from Nuevitas to Santa Cruz, and the last 
 includes the remainder of the island. The name of the division known 
 as Las Cinco Villas is taken from five important cities 
 POPULAR NAMES wn i cn it includes as separate jurisdictions, these 
 ISLAND DISTRICTS, being Sagua la Grande, Santa Clara, Trinidad, Reme- 
 dies and Cienfuegos, although even this limitation is 
 not exact, other towns sometimes being included as substitutes for 
 these. The divisions themselves frequently overlap, the line between 
 the last two being particularly ill defined. 
 
 Ecclesiastically, the island is divided into two dioceses, the arch- 
 bishopric of Santiago de Cuba and the bishopric of Havana. The divi- 
 sional line between their jurisdictions is the line between the province 
 of Puerto Principe and Santa Clara.
 
 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 The rivers of Cuba are of great number, but by the topography of 
 the country it is quite impossible that they should be of great length. 
 Nevertheless, from the large amount of rainfall in the wet season, the 
 streams at that time carry great volumes of water. 
 
 The Cuban mountains, formed of metamorphic rocks, are covered 
 with a thick layer of calcareous material of much later date geologically. 
 Says one graphic writer: "It is only in some places that the under- 
 lying older formations project like the vertebrae of some gigantic 
 extinct animal, half buried in the seas and its own detritus, the lime- 
 stone formation representing the ancient flesh, the vegetable mold 
 the cuticle and the vegetation the hairy covering. And more, this 
 carcass is nearly all hollow within, for the descending water has dis- 
 solved the limestone, forming long, underground galleries into which 
 it plunges, to appear and disappear again or to lie in great cavernous 
 reservoirs from which, on account of their elevation, it is often forced 
 by hydrostatic pressure fresh to the surface far out into the sea." 
 
 Elisee Reclus, the great geographer, tells us that in the islands 
 east of the Isle of Pine, known as the Jardines, so named from the 
 verdure-clad islets strewn like gardens amid the blue 
 waters, springs of fresh water bubble up from the 
 deep, flowing probably in subterranean galleries from FAR 
 the mainland. There are few countries in the world 
 more remarkable for the size and number of their subterranean cavities 
 than Cuba. Among the most remarkable and famous caves are those 
 of Resolladero Guacanaya in Guaniguanico; Maria Belen in Sierra de 
 Anafe; that of Cotilla near San Jose de las Lajas, fifteen miles south- 
 east of Havana ; the magnificent caves of Bellamar in Matanzas, which 
 have been described already in detail; those of San Jose de los Reme- 
 dies; together with the caverns of Cubitas, Jibara, Yumuri, Zlolguin 
 and Ba3 r amo, while north of Guantanamo are the noted Monte Libano 
 caverns. 
 
 Among the streams that lose themselves in the ground is the Rio 
 San Antonio, in the province of Havana, which drains the wonderful 
 lake of Ariguanabo, about twenty miles southwest of the city, disap- 
 pearing beneath a large tree after passing through the town of San 
 Antonio de los Bailos. On the maps the stream appears to flow into
 
 574 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 the lake, but the reverse is the case, as in reality it serves to drain the 
 latter and keep its waters fresh. This is only one of many such which 
 might be named. The short stream called the Moa has in its course 
 one remarkable cataract with a fall of 300 feet and also a cave into 
 which it plunges to appear again further down. The San Diego, in 
 the province of Pinar del Rio, passes in its course under some beautiful 
 natural arches or bridges called Los Portales. 
 
 A few of the rivers of, Cuba are navigable for short distances for 
 vessels of very light draft. One, the Cauto, which flows westward in 
 the province of Santiago, is navigable for fifty miles. This is the 
 largest river in the island, but at its mouth is a 
 
 treacherous bar that was shifted in I 616 by a heavy 
 CAUTO RIYER. & oo &> imprisoning many vessels, including a Spanish 
 man-of-war, all of which had to be abandoned. Rivers 
 which are navigable for a few miles flow into the bay of Matanzas, 
 Sagua and Nuevitas. The Maximo, emptying into Savinal bay, is 
 historically interesting because it is supposed that at its mouth Co- 
 lumbus disembarked October 27, 1492. 
 
 There are few lakes in Cuba. Most of these lie near the coast in 
 close proximity to the great marshes or everglades, but some are 
 inclosed among the high hills of the central chain. The largest of these 
 is Ariguanabo, mentioned heretofore. Nestled among the neighbor- 
 ing ridges, it has a surface of about six square miles and a depth 
 of thirty feet. It contains fish in large numbers. Other lakes there 
 are in the cienagas of the south coast, torrid quagmires hidden away 
 from everything except the burning sun, the tropical vegetation and 
 the loathsome alligators and crocodiles and known only to the few 
 Cubans who dwell in the vicinity. 
 
 The cultivable land of the island, covered with the rich, pro- 
 ductive soil which, under the stimulus of the southern sun and ample 
 rainfall, yields the most plentiful and varied products, is mostly found 
 in the eroded depressions and rolling slopes worn from the mountain 
 chains. As these low lands compose four-fifths of the area of Cuba, 
 it is readily seen how incalculable must be its wealth. Except the 
 mountain groups which have been described as forming the island 
 backbone, the surface of the interior, gently undulating, rises only
 
 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 575 
 
 from eighty to 100 feet above the level of the ocean. The plains 
 largest in extent are three: that occupying the south side of the 
 mountain chain in the province of Pinar del Rio 
 
 and Havana; that extending from Cardenas to Hoi- GREAT AREA 
 
 OF FERTILE 
 gum along the northern slope of the mountains for LOWLANDS 
 
 nearly 400 miles, and the valley of the Cauto, 
 known as the plain of Bayamo. 
 
 A myriad of islands, keys, reefs and banks virtually encircle Cuba, 
 forming a screen in front of its coast which causes great inconvenience 
 to navigation and makes portions of the mainland very difficult of 
 access. This screen once passed, protection is afforded and navigation 
 made easy. The reefs are of calcareous origin and have been and are 
 still being built by the coral insects which have served so extensively 
 in constructing the coasts of Cuba proper in many parts. The por- 
 tions of the coast sheltered by these archipelagoes are generally marshy 
 and covered with a thick growth of mangrove and other tropical swamp 
 vegetation. These marshy tracts are known by the general name of 
 cienaga. The Cienaga de Zapata or shoe-shaped marsh on the south 
 coast, is one of the largest and most characteristic of these swamps. ' 
 It has a length of more than sixt} r miles, is perfectly flat and almost 
 on a level with the sea. The contest between sea and land is here 
 marked at present by victories and defeats in about equal proportion, 
 but in the end, owing to the barrier off this part of the coast, the land 
 must gain by means of its own detritus and with the aid of its tireless 
 coral allies. The stagnant waters of the marsh are in places hedged 
 in by sandy breakwaters. The currentless channels of former rivers 
 are observed here and there among the mangrove thickets, which also 
 are dotted by many lakes, some covered with leaves 
 of myriad lilies and others reflecting the fiery heat 
 
 . S >? AMPS OF 
 
 of the tropical sun. In some spots the ground is GREAT SIZE. 
 firm enough to support a clump of trees, but most of 
 the surface consists of quagmires or boggy expanses, inaccessible to 
 man or beast. The entire coast line from Cienfuegos westward to 
 Punta de Cartas is a continuation of this great swamp. 
 
 Where the shore is not hedged about by natural breakwaters the; 
 outline presented is high and bold, furnishing many capacious, well-
 
 576 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 protected harbors with narrow entrances easy of defense. Among the 
 best harbors of the north coast are the bays of Bahia Honda, Cabanas, 
 Mariel, Havana, Matanzas, Jibara, Nipe and Baracoa. Those on the 
 south are Guantanamo, Santiago de Cuba, Trinidad and Cienfuegos. 
 
 Communication throughout the island of Cuba has been better 
 than that in Puerto Eico and still by no means sufficient. Most of the 
 roads are mere trails, quite impassable in the rainy season. There is 
 a famous wagon road called the Camino Central or the central road, 
 which runs all the way from Havana to Santiago. During years of 
 insurrection, however, much of it has been permitted to fall into disuse 
 so that it will have to be thoroughly repaired through the central por- 
 tion of its course before it is available for traffic. It is not such a 
 military road as that which crosses the island of Puerto Rico, the Span- 
 ish government in Cuba preferring to depend upon steamship com- 
 munication between the ports. There are, however, in the island of 
 Cuba about 200 miles of paved highways constructed at the expense 
 of the government, which means that they have been paid for by taxa- 
 tion upon the Cubans, and that not more than half of the sum pur- 
 porting to be expended on them has gone into their construction, the 
 remainder going to enrich the Spanish authorities. 
 
 Within the cities, carriages in Cuba are like carriages elsewhere, 
 but throughout the country the universal passenger vehicle is the 
 volante. This consists of a two-seated carriage hung rather low by 
 leather straps from the axle of two very large wheels 
 TRAYEL IN CUBA and uaving s hafts some thirteen feet long. The horse 
 THE YOLANTE * n ^- ne sna ^s is led by a postilion, whose horse is also 
 harnessed to the carriage with traces. In the case 
 of a long and rough journey a third horse is harnessed on the other 
 side of the shaft in the same manner. This carriage is extremely com- 
 fortable to travel in and the great height of the wheels and their 
 distance apart prevent all danger of turning over, a very desirable 
 quality when considered with reference to the condition of most of the 
 roads in the interior. Merchandise when not sent by rail is usually 
 transported by heavy carts drawn by oxen or mules. Pack mules are 
 employed where the roads cannot be used by the carts. 
 
 During the progress of the Cuban insurrection and our own war
 
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 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 579 
 
 with Spain, many different maps have been made and circulated. It 
 is to be regretted that thousands of these are utterly worthless and 
 misleading in the stories they tell regarding the railways of Cuba. 
 "With an energ} r worthy of a better cause and an ease to be envied by 
 the engineers, the artists in map construction have constructed for the 
 island an elaborate sj-stem of railways ramifying into every part of 
 the country where they ought to be, but a great many parts where 
 they are not. Every wagon road and every ancient survey which they 
 have found marked on any map they have changed into railways by 
 a stroke of the graver's tool. It is to be regretted that such mis- 
 leading information has been circulated so widely, for the possessor 
 of a map rarely stops to question its authenticity when a quick refer- 
 ence is necessary. 
 
 The map of Cuba which accompanies this volume is exactly cor- 
 rect in the railways it includes, and there are none whatever other than 
 those shown on this map, except numerous private roads which have 
 been built by the sugar planters to connect their 
 
 estates to the main line. There is no railway what- CORRECT RAILWAY 
 
 / MAP OF CUBA 
 
 ever connecting the eastern and western ends of the HEREWITH. 
 
 island. Even the railway across the island at the 
 trocha from Jucaro to Moron was only a military work and not oper- 
 ated for passengers. The total of railway lines of Cuba comprises about 
 1,000 miles of track. Eventually, doubtless, there will be continuous 
 railway communication from Pinar del Rio to Santiago de Cuba, ap- 
 proximately following the axis of the island and continuing beyond 
 its present terminus at Santa Clara through Santo Espiritu, Puerto 
 Principe, Victoria de las Tunas and Holguin, throwing off branches 
 to all important harbors and towns not touched by the main line. 
 
 Communication between the ports of the island of Cuba has been 
 maintained by two lines of steamers, one on the north and one on 
 the south. Boats of the former ply with regularity between Havana 
 and Matanzas, Cardenas, Sagua la Grande, Caibarien and Xuevitas, 
 calling at Guantanamo bay and making Santiago the terminal point. 
 The south coast line, with excellent boats, has its western terminus 
 at Batabano and calls at Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Tunas, Manzanillo and 
 Santiago. Another line runs from Havana to Bahia Honda, and one
 
 580 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 
 
 from Batabano to Nueva Gerona, on the Isle of Pines. Spanish, French, 
 German and American lines of steamers have reached Havana from 
 the European ports and from New York and New Orleans. 
 
 The telegraph system in the island, like that of Puerto Kico, ex- 
 tends to all the principal towns and villages and is in the hands of 
 the government. Cuba is connected by submarine cables with the rest 
 of the world by three distinct lines and there was no time during the 
 war when communication between the Madrid government and Havana 
 was interrupted. 
 
 The Isle of Pines is no doubt a permanent possession of the United 
 
 States, whatever may be the ultimate disposition of Cuba. The treaty 
 
 of peace with Spain ceded it directly to our government. This island, 
 
 which lies some sixty miles directly south of Bata- 
 
 THE ISLE ^OF PINES banQ) and? consequently, just south of the city of 
 
 UNITED STATES. Havana, is nearly one-third the size of Puerto Rico. 
 
 It is about thirty-five miles from north to south and 
 
 a little more than that from east to west at its greatest extent, with 
 
 a total area, not including the great bay to the west, of about 1,000 
 
 square miles. The population is about 2,000. Communication has 
 
 been kept up with Cuba by steamers from the port of Batabano to Nueva 
 
 Gerona, on the north coast, the principal town of the island. This 
 
 town was founded in 1853 and now has some 900 inhabitants. The 
 
 village of Santa Fe, fourteen miles distant, is much frequented on 
 
 account of its wonderful hot springs. 
 
 The Isle of Pines consists in reality of two islands, separated by 
 a tidal swamp. Toward the eastern end of this swamp, a few rocky 
 ledges, flush with the water, have been utilized to construct a stone 
 causeway between the two sections. These present a marked con- 
 trast, that on the north being wooded and mountainous, its soil ex- 
 tremely fertile, while the southern section is low, rocky and barren. 
 The principal products are marble, many beautiful varieties of which 
 exist in large quantities, rock crystal, tortoise shells, pine and tur- 
 pentine, cedar, mahogany, and other valuable woods. There are also 
 deposits of silver, mercury and iron. 
 
 Under the Spanish regime, this island has been used as a penal 
 settlement and colonization lias boon discouraged. It was here that
 
 A GLANCE AT THE ISLAND OF CUBA. 581 
 
 the case of Evaugeliua Cisneros began to attract attention. The north- 
 ern half of the island is exceedingly healthful and at 
 times has been used as a sanitarium for Spanish KESORT A>1) SA]S- 
 
 IT VKII'^ FOll 
 
 soldiers, broken in health in Cuba. It is believed that SIC ^ SOLDIERS. 
 permanent occupation by the Americans will develop 
 it rapidly. Surveys are being made at the present time, which have 
 resulted in finding two harbors which can be improved without diffi- 
 culty, so that access can be had to them by vessels of any draft. The 
 Isle of Pines will be our nearest outpost to the Nicaragua canal and 
 should prove of great value as a naval station. 
 
 Since the American occupation of Cuba two reports have been 
 made to the United States Government by army officers sent to make 
 investigations of the resources of the Isle of Pines. Each report has 
 verified the opinions of its value. It is probable that the commerce be- 
 tween the island and Cuba will be diverted to another port than 
 Batabano. The channel from Nueva Serona to Batabano is shallow 
 and difficult, but there is a channel of four fathoms depth all the way 
 from the island to Coloma, a port on the south side of the province of 
 Pinar del Eio, just south of the city of the same name. .
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 
 
 Condition of Cuba at the Close of the War How the Island Is to Be Rehabilitated 
 The Cubans a Peaceful People Unjust Judgments Upon Cubans by American 
 Soldiers The Cuban in War and in Peace The Professional Men of Havana 
 Revision of the Penal Code Hardships of the Spanish Code in Its Original 
 Form Sanitation of the City American Experts to Solve the Problem Influx 
 of Americans to Havana Adventurers and Speculators An Effort to Settle 
 Commercial Conditions Important Committees Appointed Change of Methods 
 of the Railways Administration of the Government Telegraph Lines. 
 
 THE reorganization of peace and prosperity in the island of Cuba 
 is a problem which should not be difficult of solution in an island 
 where nature has such marvelous recuperative power. Devas- 
 tated as were the fields and plantations which had been overrun by 
 Spanish and insurgent armies, it seemed to the casual observer a year 
 ago that a decade would be required to obliterate the signs of ruin. 
 It will indeed require many years to repopulate the island where nearly 
 one-fifth the citizens have died from starvation and suffering within 
 the last three years. It will require many years to clear away the 
 ruined plantation houses and sugar mills destroyed by marauders. But 
 so far as the productive capacity of the country is concerned, there is 
 reason to believe that within two years it will outstrip all its previous 
 records, beginning a new era of prosperity amazing in its proportions. 
 The climate and nature's bounty will be the greatest contributor to 
 this condition. Next will come the prompt and generous introduction 
 of American capital and American enterprise, which are already be- 
 ginning to make themselves felt. Finally will come the labor of the 
 Cubans, applied to the latent resources of the island. 
 
 The Cubans have wanted nothing so much as peace. They are 
 by no means as restless, aggressive and difficult to control as the 
 
 583
 
 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 583 
 
 people of the South and Central American republics. The latter races 
 come from a mixture of Spanish and aboriginal In- 
 dian blood. The Cuban people are a mixture of A GLANCE AT 
 
 c, . , THE CHARACTER 
 
 fepamsh nd African negro blood, this mixture, of ^ p THE CUBANS 
 
 course, not occurring in every individual, but appear- 
 ing in every class and every phase of life sufficiently to be reckoned 
 with as a factor. Out of these different combinations come different 
 characteristics, and I have no fear that the history of Cuba will be 
 marred by the succession of revolutions and governmental fiascos that 
 have retarded prosperity in our sister republics. ' The Cuban did not 
 revolt against Spanish rule until driven to it by desperation. Once 
 brought to the belief that he might as well die fighting the oppressor 
 as from oppression itself, he fought stolidly and steadily until the 
 American intervention came to his relief. 
 
 I have a word to say for the Cuban in respect to the judgments 
 formed upon him by the American soldiers in our late war. The Cuban 
 army was a distinctly inferior body, poorly equipped, poorly organized 
 and poorly fed. Its soldiers were by no means such soldiers as those 
 in our own ranks. For three years they have been carrying on a guer- 
 rilla warfare with little ammunition, few w r eapons, no commissary 
 whatever, often no food, and no clothing but rags. They have marched 
 and starved and fought and starved with equal stolidity. 
 
 The only valid excuse which the United States had to enter war 
 with Spain, was to bring peace and relief to a distracted country at 
 our doors and to aid a struggling people in their effort to free them- 
 selves from the yoke of oppression. It was this spirit which was 
 presumed to stimulate the American volunteer when he enlisted and 
 went to war. If the Cuban soldier had been the equal 
 of the American mentally and physically, if he had H *? T 
 
 1 U " AH 
 
 been as well armed, well clothed and well fed, he WITH SPAIN. 
 would not have needed our aid. It was because he 
 was distinctly an inferior that we gave our assistance. Then came 
 a grievous thing. When the American soldier reached Cuba, presuma- 
 bly knowing all these things and stimulated by them, he looked about 
 him and saw the Cuban. 
 
 "The Cuban is our inferior," he said; "he is ragged, he is dirty, he
 
 584 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 
 
 is half-starved and steals our food whenever he can get it; he will not 
 work and he will not fight when we tell him to. The Cuban is no 
 good." 
 
 For myself I am unable to hold the Cuban to blame for anv of these 
 things. It is because they were true to a given extent that we went to 
 help them. Sometimes the Cuban ran, instead of fighting. I have 
 known a Cuban force to enter a general engagement with the Spanish 
 with just five rounds of ammunition in the cartridge belts. I fail to 
 see what they should have done instead of running after they fired 
 all of these. I am impelled to the belief that in like circumstances I 
 might have reserved my fire and run first. 
 
 It is true that the Cuban troops in many cases proved of little mili- 
 tary value to the American army. But it is not hard to understand 
 why an exhausted, ragged, hungry force that had been fighting for 
 three years and now saw a strong, fresh army come to its relief, should, 
 in an actual revulsion of feeling, lapse from their energy and let the 
 re-enforcements do all the w r ork, even to save their freedom. They were 
 hungry and they stole food; they were proud and they would not build 
 roads and dig ditches. 
 
 If we are to be successful in our dealings w T ith alien people who 
 
 are coming under our domination, it is necessary for us to study them, 
 
 judge them and rule them by methods which fit them 
 
 U ^^ IGA T T ^1 NS instead of those which appeal to us. The Cubans 
 
 TO OLR A_LlEjJ , 
 
 COLONISTS. are wna t they are because of their centuries of 
 life under the Spanish yoke and the demoralizing 
 tutelage of Spanish methods. We should be cautious of shallow 
 judgments against them. 
 
 The progress of reorganization in Cuba has been an interesting 
 one. The backbone of the revolution was the professional class of 
 Havana, and the other cities. Nearly all the doctors, lawyers and other 
 professional men are Cubans. The business men are mainly Spaniards. 
 The intellectual life of Havana is Cuban. The Spaniards are traders. 
 They are very keen and successful merchants and have a certain con- 
 tempt for the "non-producers," as they call the professional men. These 
 professional mon nearly all sympathized with the insurgent cause. 
 Some of them were very open in their sympathies and joined the armies;
 
 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 585 
 
 many remained at home and contributed. Nearly all bad relatives and 
 friends in the Cuban army. The bar of Havana is a very brilliant one. 
 Many of the leading members were educated at Havana and in the 
 United States or in Europe. Their attainments are such that they 
 would attract attention in any intellectual American city. What is 
 said of lawyers may be said with the same truth of the doctors. Some 
 of the Havana physicians have a world-wide reputation. The medical 
 men are a credit to the city. For a hundred years they have cried out 
 against the evils of bad sanitation without avail, and the fact that 
 Havana is one of the sickliest cities in the world is no reflection on its 
 brilliant and capable medical fraternity. 
 
 When the American officers first appeared to arrange for the evacu- 
 ation of the island they got a very cool reception. The Cubans were 
 very bitter in their expressions. They had only sneers for our soldiers. 
 They made no concealment of the fact that they looked upon them as 
 a species of international thieves, who had come to steal before their 
 open eyes the fruits of their victory. They were infinitely more bitter 
 and even insulting than the Spaniards. The Spaniard was a conquered 
 foe, who had but little to say. He had screwed up his face for a dose 
 of medicine and was willing to take it. The Cuban considered himself 
 a cruelly wronged man. The commission afforded him no comfort. 
 
 It was at this time that some other influence began making an 
 impression on the Cuban mind. The first thing that was asked of these 
 ardent professional men was that they assist the gentlemen sent down 
 by the attorney-general from Washington to translate 
 the penal code of the island. Their answer was quick 
 
 . 
 
 and defiant. They were Cuban patriots and it should ciyn, AFFAIRS. 
 never be said by their children or children's children 
 that they had assisted in the enslavement of the people who had fought 
 so heroically and tirelessly for the priceless boon of liberty. Then they 
 discovered that to translate a criminal code into English did not imply 
 a threat of slavery, and the service of several of the most eminent law- 
 yers of Havana was enlisted to do the work. 
 
 In dealing with the Cuban situation one of the important consid- 
 erations which must be constantly borne in mind is the fact that only 
 one-fifth of the residents can read or write. The others not only have
 
 586 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 
 
 the ignorance of illiteracy, but in most cases they do not associate 
 with those who read or write, and the dissemination of classified intel- 
 ligence is naturally a very slow r matter. The people comprised in this 
 illiterate four-fifths understand that under Spanish rule they had but 
 few rights, but they have no knowledge of what their rights should be 
 now or will be under a republic or a wise liberal government. Most 
 of them naturally expect an extension of personal liberties, but have 
 no ideas as to what changes are necessary in the law T s to define and 
 establish their legitimate rights as citizens. Of the vast majority who 
 are illiterate very few have any knowledge of what elections mean. 
 The ignorant Cubans seem to have some vague notion that the more 
 intelligent will furnish some sort of a government that will be more 
 acceptable than the one now perishing. Under the Spanish law a 
 person charged with a crime is guilty until proved innocent. Under the 
 Spanish law there is no habeas corpus. 
 
 The Spanish penal code was enacted by royal decree for Cuba and 
 Puerto Rico, and went into effect in 1879, being a revision of the code of 
 1870. While the criminal code is intended to provide for punishment 
 for all crimes, it does not furnish the only laws under which a man may 
 be declared guilty, convicted and punished. There are special laws 
 "leyes especiales" which were placed upon the statute books in various 
 ways. They may have been an afterthought of the king or of the cortes. 
 They may have been decreed and promulgated by the governor-general 
 or by the municipal authorities. When an old law is found unsuit- 
 able and a new one enacted, by royal decree or otherwise, no one has 
 taken the trouble to repeal the other laws. In 1871, by decree, the chil- 
 dren born of slave parents were to be free, and in 1880 slavery was abol- 
 ished; but the special laws for the punishment of slaves are still carried 
 on the statute books. The most powerful law is one issued by the king 
 with the advice of the cabinet, but when it conflicts with a royal order 
 issued b}- the minister in the king's name the judge can select whichever 
 one he sees fit to use. 
 
 When a person is arrested lie is put in prison and may remain there 
 seventy -two hours before anything is done with the case. Then or at 
 any time previous that, may be selected, he is taken before the official 
 known as tlio judge of instruction. When first arrested the prisoner is a
 
 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 587 
 
 "detendo." If the judge of instruction decides that there is sufficient in- 
 struction to hold him he becomes a "procesados." He is not made 
 acquainted with the evidence against him. It may or may not be given 
 in court, If held he is sent back to prison, and it is at the pleasure of the 
 officials as to when he shall have trial. 
 
 Heretofore when a person has been arrested there has been a race 
 between the man who made the arrest, the jailer and the judge of in- 
 struction as to who could first get to the man's friends. If these friends 
 had money the one who got there first took the money 
 and the prisoner was released. If the crime was THE I>R1SOSER 
 
 I \ T 1 1 F 
 
 serious his first duty was to put the prosecuting wit- SPANISH CODE 
 ness out of the way. Sometimes he had to do mur- 
 der to accomplish this, and there were men who made a profession of dis- 
 posing of obnoxious witnesses. Their trade was assassination. They 
 worked for a very low rate. 
 
 If a prisoner under Cuban law is so fortunate as to get a trial the 
 prejudice of the court is against him. He is deemed guilty and must 
 prove that he is innocent. The judge has possession of all evidence on 
 both sides from the* start. Under the law imbeciles and lunatics are 
 exempt. If the prisoner is guilty of one of the graver crimes he is con- 
 fined in an asylum, where he must remain until released by the order of 
 the magistrate. If guilty of a lesser crime he is remanded to his home to 
 be cared for. The terms "graver" and "lesser crimes" are used because 
 in the Spanish code there is no criminal classification of crimes and mis- 
 demeanors. Crimes are classified as grave and lesser crimes, and 
 graded according to the punishments. If while a prisoner is suffering 
 punishment by imprisonment for a lesser crime he commits a graver one, 
 he is tried for the graver crime and punished for it. The punishment 
 for the lesser crime comes afterward. 
 
 Minors 9 years of age or under are exempt from punishment. A 
 minor over the age of 9 and under 15 years is also exempt, unless he shall 
 have arrived at the "age of discernment," when he may be punished at 
 the discretion of the magistrate. If the magistrate declares him ir- 
 responsible he must be remanded to the care of his family or to a be- 
 nevolent institution. 
 
 Under the code, one who acts in defense of his person or his rights,
 
 588 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 
 
 or in defense of the rights of his spouse, his ancestors, his descendants, 
 his brother or his adopted or blood relations, is exempt. A slave who 
 defends his master is exempt. So, also, is a gratuitously emancipated 
 freedman who defends his master or his master's spouse. Even a 
 stranger may be protected by the use of violence and the protector be 
 exempt from punishment. One who to escape an injury does an act 
 causing damage is exempt, but the impending injury must be real and 
 not fancied and the damages which would have resulted from the injury 
 averted must exceed the damages caused by the efforts to escape. One 
 who is performing a lawful act and accidentally causes damages is im- 
 mune from punishment. One who acts under compulsion or the impulse 
 of irresistible force is exempt. 
 
 The code has something which pretty nearly comprehends the plea 
 of temporary insanity. It exempts from punishment one who commits 
 an overt act under the impulse of ungovernable fear and makes a crim- 
 inal an object of mercy if he acts in a paroxysm of anger. The law T will 
 pardon one w r ho acts in fulfillment of duty or who acts in virtue of obedi- 
 ence to another. But it does not attempt to describe what are proper 
 "duties" to fulfill or when "another" has a right to command obedience 
 to the extent of causing crimes. 
 
 In the Spanish code is a long list of "extenuating circumstances." 
 It is an extenuating circumstance to be under the age of 18 years, to 
 commit a crime without intent, to act under threat or when avenging a 
 wrong done to self or spouse. It is an extenuating circumstance to be 
 
 intoxicated when committing a crime, providing it is not the habit of 
 
 i 
 
 the person to be intoxicated, or providing the intoxicated condition was 
 not acquired after the crime had been planned. It is legal to make a 
 plea for mercy, citing that the accused acted under powerful excite- 
 ment. The code names twenty-six kinds of crimes 
 wli i cn nm st be considered as aggravated offenses. A 
 IN THE LAW. ^ ew ^ these are: Crimes against relatives up to the 
 fourth degree; crimes against patrons and crimes that 
 constitute treachery to patrons and to persons who had special reasons 
 for trusting the criminal; crimes for price, recompense or reward are 
 particularly bad. This covers the deeds of the Nafiigos, who are pro- 
 fessional assassins and put persons out of the world for price.
 
 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 589 
 
 The crimes are also considered to have aggravating circumstances 
 if accompanied by fire, heavy damages or explosions; if premeditated 
 or if fraud is used in the commission. It is considered especially repre- 
 hensible if the offender takes advantage of greatly superior physical 
 strength or adds to the natural consequences of his misdeeds ignominy 
 and humiliation to the victim. It is also especially offensive in the mind 
 of the Cuban judge to commit a crime in a lonely or a sacred place. 
 
 The sanitation of Havana was a matter demanding prompt settle- 
 ment as imperatively as any other feature of reorganization. To advise 
 upon the sanitary needs of the city, Colonel George E. Waring was sent 
 to Cuba by Secretary Alger. After an exhaustive examination of the 
 conditions, Colonel Waring returned to the United States to make his 
 report, and shortly after reaching New York city died from yellow fever 
 contracted in Havana. His labor, however, was by no means lost. He 
 evolved a plan which no doubt will be adopted for execution as rapidly 
 as possible, and it is to be hoped that yellow fever will be eternally 
 obliterated thereby. 
 
 He was not the first who had studied the subject of the disposal 
 of the city's sewage. The plan favored for years by the United States 
 marine hospital surgeons in Havana, was to cut a canal from the north- 
 eastern extremity of the harbor to the sea, through 
 which the waters of the bay could be drained. With 
 two openings thus provided, and the Gulf Stream and 
 tide to scour the harbor, it was believed that all de- 
 sired results would be obtained. Engineers in other reports recmn- 
 mend a great tunnel into which all sewers could empty. This was to 
 have its exit in the surf 2,000 yards east of Morro castle. 
 
 The time element and the great cost of the work barred the tunnel 
 project from consideration by Colonel Waring. Primarily the war de- 
 partment wanted to provide a healthy garrison for its soldiers, rather 
 than to give Havana, free of cost, a perfect system of drainage. The 
 tunnel, its pumps and intercepting sewers, would cost a very large sum, 
 and might use up five years in the building. So Colonel Waring and 
 his staff of engineers turned to the level fields southwest of the city, 
 beyond Jesus del Monte, and made up their minds to put in a surface- 
 sluice svstem of purification such as the inland cities of England use.
 
 590 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 
 
 The existing sewers of the city had no part in Colonel Waring*s 
 plan. They all empty into the sea or the bay, and the flow is in the 
 direction opposite that his conduits must take. If one wanted to use 
 them he would have hard work finding them. There is no general chart 
 of the city showing them. The plans have been lost, and the only w r ay 
 to establish the existence of a sewer is to dig for it. Looking for an 
 outlet would profit nothing many of them have no outlets, but are 
 merely blind extended vaults, dug without relation to the other sewers 
 of the city. Jobbery and corruption are at the bottom of the tangle. 
 The few sewers in commission are so badly constructed that half their 
 burden of filth is lost on the way. Four houses of every five are without 
 connections with such sewers as there are. What the subsoil of Ha- 
 vana has stored up in the way of germs and gases passes imagination. 
 
 The plane of the city slopes downward to the east, but the gradient 
 is not so steep that it cannot be easily overcome. From the Prado, the 
 backbone of the city, the slope is northward toward the sea or south- 
 ward to the harbor. The littoral of bay and ocean is practically con- 
 tinuous, and two intercepting sewers at the low level with auxiliary 
 trunk sewers on the slopes would fill the requirements. At the purify- 
 ing works the stuff would have to be pumped to the surface. Ultimately 
 Havana must have a double system of drainage. Half an hour of rain- 
 fall during the day paralyzes all business in the "old town," where most 
 of the business is done. The rains are a distinct benefit to the city just 
 now, flushing the streets and giving them the only cleaning they get. 
 
 As early as 1550 the bad sanitary condition of the city of Havana 
 began to worry its people. The residents then were of the opinion that 
 bad water was the cause of a specially severe epidemic. It was decided 
 to bring a portion of the Alernendares river into the city to supply pure 
 drinking water. The construction of this ditch occupied twenty-five 
 years, it being completed in 1501 ; but it was unfit to use. 
 
 The first ravage of yellow fever was in 1048, when the fleet of Don 
 Juan Junjados appeared in the harbor of Havana 
 
 VARIOUS EPI- | ronia j n( >(i the greater part of the summer. The 
 
 DEMICS OF 
 
 YELLOW FEVER. e pidemic which Lad come with this fleet had a recru- 
 descence iu the following spring, when the authorities 
 estimated that one-third of the population of the island was carried
 
 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 591 
 
 away. The next epidemic was in 1653 and 1054, when the troops seem 
 to have had no special connection with the spread of the disease. There 
 was a recrudescence in 1G55, and, strange to say, after this time no more 
 yellow fever was reported for 107 years. This century of immunity 
 caused travelers to give the island a great reputation for salubrity. 
 Europeans came here to reside for their health. In the spring of 1TG1 
 a number of political prisoners and soldiers were sent from Vera Cruz 
 to Cuba to do some work on interior fortifications. At the same time 
 nine men-of-war appeared from Cadiz, to remain in Havana for the sum- 
 mer. The prisoners from Vera Cruz brought back the infection. Since 
 that yellow fever has been endemic to Havana. Cholera has been 
 epidemical and has always disappeared after an attack. 
 
 The influx of Americans to Havana Avas rapid after the city was 
 accessible to them. Havana was soon thronged with speculators of all 
 classes. Adventurers found their paradise and all sorts of frauds were 
 attempted in competition with legitimate business enterprises. Real 
 estate, rents and franchises rose in price with startling rapidity. Cer- 
 tain phases of the life reminded one of the boom towns and mining cen- 
 ters of our own west in the bonanza days. Hotels were crowded and at 
 every corner there were men with options worth fortunes, which they 
 were willing to sell dirt cheap. 
 
 All the time, however, through the months of the fall and winter, 
 there was going on quietly a great work for the political and commercial 
 redemption of the island. I have spoken of the reform of the penal 
 code that was begun as promptly as possible, but this was not the only 
 one. 
 
 The postmaster-general sent an agent to examine into the Cuban 
 postal system. The same department sent a second agent to make a re- 
 port on the government telegraph of the island. The treasury depart- 
 ment sent an agent to report on the customs and tariff taxes and to col- 
 late statistics to assist in the remodeling of these taxes. The agricult- 
 ural department Kad its agent looking after weather bureaus and crop 
 reports. The navy had an expert getting facts to enable the depart- 
 ment to establish a repair station at the proper place. The war depart- 
 ment sent men to look up the transportation facilities of the island. 
 
 The business men became active and organized a large committee,
 
 592 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 
 
 with various sub-committees, to make investigations of the industries 
 of the island. The organization had no politics and no favored nation- 
 ality, there being Cubans, Spaniards, Americans, Ger- 
 mans and Englishmen in the list. Cuba was unique 
 
 JJLLK 
 
 ORGANIZE. m navm g n o agencies that report on commercial 
 credits and yet commercial credit was essential for 
 the restoration of prosperity. Many of the sugar planters were bank- 
 rupt. Many need assistance now and will need it for several years. 
 Some need help to replace the large sugar mills destroyed during the 
 war. Havana has locked up in private safes a great deal of money 
 that might be used for this purpose. Other cities are likewise in posi- 
 tion to give assistance. In Cienfuegos, it is stated, one man has $800,000 
 in yellow doubloons locked up in a safe. The surplus money of the 
 island is hoarded. 
 
 It is difficult for the owners of this money to make safe loans. 
 They know that certain plantations have been partly destroyed, but 
 they do not know their real pli3 r sical condition. The sugar committee 
 will make a report on the entire sugar situation. After proper request 
 has been made it will investigate any plantation and tell of the financial 
 condition of the owner and the physical condition of the plantation. 
 It will tell what he can do in his present state and w r hat he can do if 
 provided with money. Thus each man in the sugar business will come 
 to have a commercial rating. The report of necessity must be honest, 
 for the men interested in both ends of the deal are making the report. 
 The men w r ho have the money to loan will be there, as well as the men 
 who want the money. 
 
 The people who were clamoring to know what the political future of 
 Cuba was to be were told that this would be a good thing to do while 
 they were waiting to find out. They were told that they were in a com- 
 mercially anaemic condition and a physical state of prostration. They 
 were told that with their fields ragged with weeds and their storehouses 
 empty there were things to be done apart from politics, and until they 
 were done Cuba could have no individual political life, no matter what 
 mfght be decided by men and put on paper. 
 
 The sugar committee will not complete its work when it has classi- 
 fied, so to speak, the credits of industrially decrepit Cuba. In passing it
 
 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 593 
 
 should be said that it is the growers of sugar, tobacco aud other products 
 that. need assistance. The factor, manufacturer and commercial men in 
 the city are still strong financially. The committee hardly will have 
 finished the first part of its task when the civil authorities will be seek- 
 ing advice as to the needs of the island as to taxes and other matters. 
 The United States government is now posting itself that it may deal 
 with the situation, but these sugar men know what the island wants. 
 It is not certain that the United States will give them what they require, 
 but it is certain that the United States will give their requests considera- 
 tion and be instructed by what they have to say. A special sub-com- 
 mittee of the sugar committee will prepare a lengthy report on the 
 subject. 
 
 The tobacco committee will undertake work of similar scope and 
 magnitude. Its work will not be so extensive, as it deals with an inter- 
 est of only one-half the magnitude; but, on the other hand, it will have 
 more delicate problems to deal with. The Cuban to- 
 
 TO 
 
 bacco grower and the manufacturer want to keep the 
 
 PLANTATION 
 
 American tobacco leaf out of Havana. They deem OWNERS. 
 that essential to the integrity of their manufactured 
 goods and are prepared to make a strenuous fight on this point. At 
 the same time, after thinking it. over, they decided that they did not 
 know whether the American tobacco man wanted to come into the 
 Havana market. If he does they want to fight him. If he does not they 
 want to keep still. Therefore they are finding out the facts. It is not 
 politics. It is business. It affects the rehabilitation of the island. 
 
 It is pointed to with pride by the merchants in Havana that during 
 the long struggle for supremacy in the island there was not a large 
 financial failure in Havana, and perhaps none in any of the larger 
 cities. None of the important commercial houses went down. The ex- 
 planation given is that the commerce of Havana is established on a 
 cash basis. If a man or a firm has a $500,000 business he has $500,000 
 in cash. The banks do not make a practice of giving lines of discount. 
 It is done, of course, in special cases, and to some concerns, but it is not 
 the financial custom of the city. Neither is it the practice to pay with 
 notes or to allow long time on local commercial transactions. In this 
 respect it is said to differ from most countries of the south. If a Havana
 
 594 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 
 
 house purchases a lot of tobacco from a plantation cash down is paid. 
 If a sale is niade to a local house it is a cash transaction. When goods 
 are sold to New York or London thirty or sixty days is given. Although 
 the commercial men are inclined to deny it, perhaps it is true that long 
 credits are given to South American houses. The tobacco trade with 
 Buenos Ayres is very large and the South American dealers are apt to 
 require long credits. 
 
 Another Americanizing influence will be the change in the business 
 methods of the railroads. As the United States army will insist upon 
 doing business in the English language it will also insist upon the busi- 
 ness methods being similar to those with which Americans are familiar. 
 Another thing which the Spanish government will turn over to the 
 United States will be a government telegraph system. All the tele- 
 graph lines on the island are owned and operated by the government. 
 No one seems to know just how extensive this system is. It is certainly 
 in bad condition. Many of the lines are down, and even the poles have 
 been cut along many miles of the system. The same wires are used by 
 the railroads for the needs of the train dispatcher and 
 CRUDE RAILWAY the operat i ons O f the road, but. the railroad is not per- 
 
 AXD TLLEGRAPH 
 
 METHODS. mitted to send commercial messages. The railroad is 
 
 not even permitted to wire about the handling of 
 
 freight unless it concerns the running of the train and the direct 
 
 handling of the cars. In some few cases the government telegraph lines 
 
 run across the country. 
 
 The United States has employed an agent to inspect these telegraph 
 lines, and he will make a report upon which will probably be based rules 
 for their future operation. As at present conducted the lines are under 
 the direction of the postal department. With the exception of Havana 
 and a few of the larger cities the lines do not run into the postoffices, but 
 the telegraph office is at the railroad station. The government operator 
 also attends to railroad w r ork. Few of these are very efficient, and in 
 some of the offices are to be noticed large tmd cumbrous mechanisms for 
 printing the messages by the Morse code on slips of paper, as was the 
 original custom in all telegraph offices. Between the more important 
 points there are several wires, but in most cases one line straggles along 
 the railroad. It is strung on shaky, low poles, sometimes not more than
 
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 COMMERCIAL REORGANIZATION OF CUBA. 597 
 
 three inches in diameter. If a steer rubs his neck vigorously against 
 one of them he is apt to put the whole line out of service. 
 
 There will be two ways for the United States to take charge of these 
 telegraph lines, and it is very likely that both will be used. The signal 
 corps could take charge of these lines for military purposes. The other 
 way will be for the postal authorities to take charge of these lines and 
 establish with the postal system a regular telegraphic mail service, as 
 has often been proposed for the United States. 
 
 The general commercial conditions thus outlined as existing in 
 Havana are those which the American investor will have to meet if 
 he seeks a new field in Cuba. The man w r ho can adapt himself to local 
 conditions, yielding to them when necessary and taking advantage of his 
 own abilities and capital, will find many an opportunity yet remaining 
 in the island metropolis.
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES. 
 
 Cuba's Wealth in the Soil The Beginning of Sugar Culture Disastrous Effect of 
 the Cuban Eerolution upon the Raising of Sugar and Tobacco A Sugar Planta- 
 tion and Its Equipment How the Sugar Mill Is Operated The Purging-House 
 and Its Function Processes of Extracting Syrup from Cane and Preparing 
 Sugar for Market Various Species of Cane Grown in Cuba The Use of the 
 Machete Sugar from the Cane to the Table Superiority of Cuban Tobacco- 
 Necessity of Keeping American Tobacco Out of Havana The Tariff and the 
 Cigar Trade Condition of the Tobacco Industry at the Present Time Volume 
 of the Crop Under Normal Conditions. 
 
 THE source of Cuba's greatest wealth is the wonderful fertility of its 
 soil. It is estimated that the island has 35,000,000 acres of land, 
 of which more than 10,000,000 are still virgin forest. Certainly 
 not more than half of the island has been utilized in any way by industry 
 and some estimates allege that at least 20,000,000 acres await the appli- 
 cation of labor and capital. 
 
 The first sugar plantation was established in 1595, but the industry 
 did not assume prime importance until the present century. In addi- 
 tion to the burden of heavy taxation, the trade has of late years suffered 
 severely from the competition of European beet sugar as well as the 
 internal disorders of the island. The great advantage of sugar growing 
 in Cuba is that the cane reproduces itself without the necessity of re- 
 sowing, for ten, fifteen or twenty years, according to the nature of the 
 soil. The sugar is of superior quality and the proximity of the island 
 to the United States has given it a great advantage. 
 
 The yield of sugar in Cuba in 1894-95 was 1,040,000 tons, with an 
 estimated addition of 400,000 tons of molasses and an unknown quan- 
 tity of rum. Under the influence of the insurrection 
 EFFECT OF INSUR- wll i ch began in February, 1895, the quantity was re- 
 RECTION ON THE ml- 
 
 SUGAR CROP. duced in the next year to 22o,000 tons. This is an 
 
 evidence of the devastating effect of the Cuban revo- 
 lution upon the prosperity of the island. 
 
 598
 
 THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES. 599 
 
 The greatest sugar estates lie in the Vuelta Arriba, the region of 
 the famous red earth, which includes parts of the provinces of Havana, 
 Matanzas and Santa Clara. The province of Santiago de Cuba also 
 contains many sugar plantations. 
 
 It is hardly possible to describe a sugar plantation as it is to-day, 
 for many of them are but wrecks of their former greatness. But the 
 great sugar estate as it was before the war and as it will be again, is an 
 enterprise of exceeding interest. The imposing scale of operations on 
 such a plantation imparted a character of barbaric regal state to the 
 life led there. These great estates, called in Spanish phrase ingenios, 
 have been the source of enormous wealth to their owners. These 
 ingenios vary in size from five hundred to ten thousand acres, though 
 the results of their crops are not always in proportion to the number of 
 their acres, that depending more particularly upon the nature of the soil 
 of the particular locality in which they are situated, and the degree of 
 intelligence and amount of labor with which they are worked. Each 
 one of the ingenios is, in some degree, like a small village, or, as with the 
 larger ones, quite a town, in which are substantial edifices, numerous 
 dwellings, and expensive machinery, together w r ith a large number of in- 
 habitants, the different officials necessary for their government and 
 management representing the civil officers, except with perhaps greater 
 power. 
 
 The buildings upon a first-class sugar estate generally include a 
 plantation-house, which, from its size, style and cost, might sometimes 
 be called a palace, some of them having in addition to numerous other 
 conveniences, small chapels in which to celebrate the 
 
 religious services of the estate. The important mem- SL A 7! 
 
 AND 
 
 bers of the operating staff are numerous on a large ADMINISTRATION. 
 plantation. Among others there is the administrador, 
 who is charged with the care and management of the estate in the 
 absence of the owner. There is also the mayoral, as he is called, the 
 chief of the negro laborers, whose business it is to follow the laborers 
 to the field, to see that they do their work properly, and that sufficient 
 amount of cane is cut to keep the mill constantly supplied with material 
 to grind; in fact he has a general supervision of all the agricultural 
 duties of th'e estate, receiving his orders only from the owner or ad-
 
 600 THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES. 
 
 ministrador, as the case may be. The mayorales are generally very 
 ordinary men, of no education, the intelligence they possess being simply 
 that gained by long experience in this kind of business. The ma- 
 quinista, or engineer, is really the most important man upon the place, 
 as upon him depend the grinding of the cane and the care of the mill and 
 its machinery. 
 
 The most important of all the buildings is, of course, the sugar-mill, 
 
 which consists of the engine-house, where is all the machinery and 
 
 power for grinding, boiling and working the cane and juice, and the 
 
 purging and drying-houses. The engine-house is generally an extremely 
 
 large roof, supported by pillars and posts, and entirely open on all sides 
 
 in fact nothing more than a well constructed shed 
 
 PLANTATIONS, -^ k ee p o ff fh e sun an( j rain, the floor being mostly 
 
 SUGAR-MILLS , .,, , . , . ,. 
 
 AND OUTFITS P ave with brick, and the stairways leading from one 
 
 portion of the building to another being of solid stone. 
 One of these mills of the first class is a very handsome affair, everything 
 about it, the engines and the machinery, being kept in the most scrupu- 
 lously clean order. 
 
 The purging-house is generally two stories high and of great length. 
 The floor of the upper story is simply a series of strong frames, with 
 apertures for placing in them the funnel-shaped cylinders of tin or 
 sheet-iron, into which is put the molasses to drain into troughs beneath. 
 One side of this house is open, in order to permit the large boxes upon 
 wheels, into which are put the forms of sugar, to be run in and out con- 
 veniently. In these boxes, which are immensely large, the sugar in 
 forms is broken up and exposed to the air and sun, for the purpose of 
 thoroughly drying it. 
 
 The number of these cylinders is something wonderful, there being 
 in some of the houses as many as twenty thousand. Beneath the upper- 
 floor are a number of troughs, each trough having a slant to a main 
 trough. Over the minor troughs are the mouths of the funnels, which 
 permit the molasses draining from the pans of sugar above to run into 
 the troughs, which again convey it to large vats or hogsheads, each of 
 which holds from twelve to fifteen hundred gallons. It is in this 
 process that they make the distinction of the different sugars bianco,
 
 f 
 
 THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES. (101 
 
 or white; quebrado, or broken; ami the common, dark-colored sugar 
 called cucurueh/). 
 
 In making these three qualities of sugar, a layer of moist earth 
 or clay is placed upon the top of the pans of crystallized syrup, from 
 which the moisture, draining constantly through, carries off all the im- 
 perfections, leaving the pans full of dry sugar in the 
 
 form of solid cases, and generally of three colors: MAKING THE 
 
 . . A J ' THREE QUALITIES 
 
 that nearest the top, pure white; next below that, OF SUGAR. 
 
 discolored; and at the bottom of that, the moist or 
 dark colored. 
 
 If, however, it is desired to make only a muscovado sugar, which is 
 of a rich, brown color, and does not require the same time or pains as 
 the finer qualities, the syrup is simply put in the large hogsheads before 
 described, and allowed to drain off in the natural way without the 
 process of "claying" it, as it is called. This, of course, makes more 
 sugar of an average inferior grade, w T hich weighs more, having the 
 molasses in it; and this is the sugar generally preferred by sugar 
 refiners. 
 
 It is calculated that to even^ 1,000 boxes of sugar, consisting of 400 
 pounds each, it is necessary to have from fifty to seventy-five hands; 
 for, of course, the greater supply of labor there is, the better are the 
 chances of making the sugar of superior quality. Of these laborers the 
 larger proportion are negroes. 
 
 Of the cane itself there are several species grown in Cuba. The 
 criolla or native cane is the oldest known, being that brought to Spain 
 \)j Columbus on his second voyage from the Canaries, but is thin, poor 
 and not very juicy. Otaheite cane, which is large, thick, and preferred 
 by the sugarmakers, was introduced into the island in 1795. The cris- 
 tallina, last introduced, and cultivated by many in preference to the 
 latter, is very prolific. The height attained by the cane, the length of 
 joint, the color and many other particulars vary with different species, 
 the character of the soil and the mode of culture adopted. The stems 
 are divided by joints into short lengths, from each joint of which long, 
 narrow leaves sprout. The outer part of the cane is hard and brittle, 
 but the inner consists of a soft pith containing the sweet juice. 
 
 The cane is propagated by slips or cuttings, planting taking place
 
 602 THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES. 
 
 in the intervals of the rainy season, which begins regularly in June and 
 lasts until October or November. The cutting takes place immediately 
 
 after the Christmas holidays and sometimes continues 
 HOW SUGAR-CANE ag Jate &g May When the cane . g pipe foj . cutting> 
 
 PROPAGATED. tne nan ds proceed to the field armed with the same 
 machetes that have proven such effective weapons in 
 insurrection. These are knives of peculiar construction, something 
 like a butcher's cleaver, without the broadened blade, and very strong 
 and sharp. They cut the cane with the utmost dexterity, and a field in 
 the cutting season presents a most picturesque sight. The cane is 
 carted to the mill and deposited under the shed where other hands 
 throw it upon an endless conductor formed of strips of wood and links 
 of chain, which carries the cane into the jaws of the crushers. Here the 
 juice is completely pressed out, passing in a continuous stream into 
 troughs beneath, while the refuse cane is discharged on the other side 
 to be carried to the furnaces. 
 
 The juice as it runs out in the liquid state is an opaque fluid of a 
 dull gray or olive green color. It is quite thick and holds in suspension 
 particles of the cane and refuse, which have to be filtered out. This 
 liquid is so susceptible to fermentation that it is necessary to clarify it 
 immediate!}'. The clarifiers are a large kettle heated by steam and 
 lime is used in the process. From the clarifiers the juice, after settling, 
 is filtered through vats filled nearly up to the top with bone-black. 
 From these filtering vats the material is led to large tanks, and from 
 the tanks again to the vacuum pans. The process of 
 tt VACU preparing the sugar for market through the successive 
 PUKGIN6-HOUSE. yacuum pans is complicated and technical. The use 
 of science to insure success in the process is being in- 
 troduced more and more every year as a substitute for skill without 
 science, as was related in an earlier chapter concerning the sugar 
 centrals of Puerto Rico. 
 
 From the last vacuum pan the sugar is discharged into moulds, to 
 be taken to the purging-liouse described heretofore. The molasses that 
 drains off in the purging-house is afterwards re-boiled and made into a 
 common grade of sugar. The best molasses comes from the muscovado 
 sugar, since it has not passed through so many purifying operations
 
 THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES. 603 
 
 and therefore has more saccharine matter in it. The sugar being thor- 
 oughly dried, sorted and pulverized, now has only to be packed and 
 shipped to some port where vessels can load it to carry it to a refinery 
 for the final processes which prepare it for the table. 
 
 Cuba has long been famous for the superiority of its tobacco. 
 Efforts have been made to rival the Cuban tobacco in different parts of 
 the world, but it seems to hold its own as excelling all others. It is 
 grown in greatest abundance in the western part of the island and in 
 some localities in the provinces of Santa Clara and Santiago de Cuba. 
 The first, or Vuelta Abajo region, where the best tobacco on the island 
 is raised, suffered severely from the insurrection. Its ordinary yield is 
 nearly 300,000 bales of 110 pounds each. The export for the last year in 
 which statistics are available, was 240,000 bales and 166,712,000 cigars. 
 
 The position of the Cuban tobacco grower, manufacturer and factor 
 is easily stated. They want all tobaccos grown in the United States 
 kept out of the island. The entire exclusion of American tobaccos is so 
 much more important that any other questions that 
 may arise concerning the tobacco commerce are sub- 
 ordinate and trivial by comparison. The grower and TRADE. 
 
 the manufacturer care most about this and the factor 
 cares the least. The former are more vitally concerned in the reputa- 
 tion of the Havana tobacco. The factor is less interested, because there 
 would be dealings no matter what the condition of the trade. The 
 Cuban tobacco men claim that in the Vuelta Abajo district is grown the 
 finest tobacco in the world. Tobaccos are grown in other portions of 
 the island in large quantities and of excellent quality, but in the com- 
 paratively small district in Pinar del Rio grows the tobacco that is the 
 pride of the Havanese heart. In all cases the growers want to protect 
 the name of all their tobacco, because it sells on its reputation. 
 
 The climate of Havana offers conditions that enable the crude to- 
 bacco product there to be manufactured under the most favorable cir- 
 cumstances. The air furnishes just the right amount of moisture and 
 the proper amount of heat; in fact, it is said by experts to furnish every- 
 thing necessary. At other places these conditions may be supplied arti- 
 ficially, but in Havana the leaf slowly and from entirely natural causes 
 reaches the stage where it is to be made into cigars. When it reaches
 
 604 THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES. 
 
 the table of the roller it is in perfect condition for working. In the 
 finer grades the leaves are as smooth and as pliable as pieces of silk and 
 as easily worked, the finished article being satiny in its fineness. The 
 grower and manufacturer claim that it is this combination of favorable 
 natural conditions for the plant in the field and for the leaf in processes 
 of manufacture that has made the Havana cigar famous. They consider 
 that the reputation of their beloved and profitable cigar would be lost if 
 other tobaccos were sold from here. 
 
 Those interested in tobacco are also concerned about the tariff 
 which the United States proposes instituting, but this is not vital either 
 with grower or manufacturer. As it is now, Havana cigars sell in 
 American cities for just double what they retail for in Havana. The 
 duties and taxes are not quite responsible for all this difference, but to a 
 large extent they are. Cigars which gentlemen of Havana like to smoke 
 are in reach of the man of ordinary income, but they are sold for 25 or 
 30 cents apiece in America. The dealer says that if this duty is cut oT 
 it simply means that the American will get his Havana cigars cheaper, 
 
 but the Havana producer will get no more for his 
 
 AMERICAN goods. If the duty is raised it might serve to exclude 
 
 ON TOBl^CO. kis goods, but that is not of much importance to him, 
 
 as the supply will be less than the demand for a few 
 years on account of the state of the plantations. England, Europe and 
 South America will take his goods at fair prices if America does not 
 want them. He prefers to do business with America as a matter of 
 convenience, but he politely says that the matter rests entirely with 
 America. 
 
 If the American duty is not removed there is one change that is 
 desired by the Havana dealers in leaf tobaccos. The United States 
 tariff law now has a differential duty on wrappers and fillers. This, the 
 Cuban claims, is all right so far as Sumatra tobacco is concerned, as it is 
 only imported for use as wrappers. It is even imported into Cuba, to 
 the great disgust of the older houses. The Sumatra tobacco can be pur- 
 chased without the fillers. Havana tobacco is used in America for 
 wrappers, binders and fillers. The experts say that Havana tobacco 
 can never be assorted so that you can tell where wrappers begin or 
 where fillers end. The American tobacco manufacturer, therefore, can
 
 THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES. 605 
 
 never tell whether he is to be compelled to pay 35 cents a pound or $1.85 
 a pound at the custom house. A tobacco fresh in October may look fit 
 for a wrapper, while in January it may prove only fit for a filler, or, if 
 of good size, may be used as a binder. Thus it is an impossibility prop- 
 erly to describe tobacco destined for shipment to the United States, and 
 the courts are full of protests. 
 
 Only one-fifth of a crop has been planted in Cuba this year, and the 
 farmers, being sick and in addition having lost their live stock and im- 
 plements, are unable to take very good care of it. The tobacco lands are 
 owned in large tracts, called plantations, but they are not planted in 
 large tracts, as the land is rented out, or "raised on shares," as it is 
 called, and the raising of tobacco' is therefore really in the hands of 
 small farmers. Tobacco plantations, of course, vary 
 in size as well as do the tracts for the small farmers. HOW 1 
 
 /\pi rnj"\T> A f\f i/| 
 
 A piece of land 160 acres in size may only have a small IS GROWN. 
 proportion suitable for tobacco. The soil must be 
 right and water convenient. Irrigation has been successful in certain 
 districts, but is not in general use. 
 
 If the grower takes care of a large tract he employs hands and pays 
 from $18 to $25 a month. On some plantations $30 a month is paid. It 
 takes two men to take care of one acre of tobacco. If the land is owned 
 by the farmer he lives on it. If leased, he lives in a near-by village, but 
 during the season of planting and cutting he lives on the farm, usually 
 in temporary huts or shacks made of bark and palm leaves. Oxen are 
 required to do the plowing. They are more suitable than horses or 
 mules because they stand the climate and the work better. They are 
 needed from April and May until December and January, as planting is 
 commenced in October and carried on until January. 
 
 Generally speaking, the size of tracts worked by individual farmers 
 varies from garden patches to ten acres. On most of these the barns 
 and outbuildings have been destroyed. Country life in Cuba is very 
 simple and the wants are few. Had the farmers been able to prepare 
 for the planting, which should be going on now, they would get along 
 very well. If the farmer has work he usually takes good care of his 
 family. He is rarely a drinking man, and then only on feast days. In 
 the time of growing tobacco all the numerous children of his family are
 
 G06 THE SUGAR AND TOBACCO INDUSTRIES. 
 
 put to work. When the time of packing arrives the women of the house- 
 hold are used. In some parts of the island the women work alongside of 
 the men at all kinds of work. But as the men from these farms went to 
 the war, and were starved or killed, the women, who survived starvation, 
 can scarcely plant the tobacco. 
 
 The small farmer can get along very well without his house and 
 household goods. A palm-leaf hut is soon made. But he cannot get 
 along without his plow although it is a very crude one his harrow 
 and his two oxen. That is all he needs after he has secured tobacco 
 plants. In the north his plowing would be called the merest tickling 
 of the soil. Some of this soil has been neglected and the first time it is 
 planted it will require a little more than the usual scratching. The 
 tobacco takes from fifty to sixty days to grow. Tobacco planted in 
 October is cut in December. After it is housed it must hang until the 
 stem has lost its moisture and the leaf becomes dry. In this condition 
 it will remain until the moist season commences, when it is taken down 
 and put in bundles. These bundles are piled together in large quan- 
 tities for fermentation. In this condition it remains about forty days. 
 Then the packing and assorting begins, to be followed by shipment. 
 
 Under normal conditions the island raises 650,000 bales of tobacco. 
 
 The present crop will amount to between 150,000 and 160,000 bales. 
 
 That for next season will be no larger than for 1898. In other words, 
 
 there will be a little more than one-fifth of a crop. 
 
 GREAT VOLUME It ig hard to est j mate tne value of a crop, as the prices 
 
 f\V THI" 1 
 
 SMOKERS' CROP. ^ bales Tuu from |60 to $110 a bale. Those ac- 
 quainted with the tobacco-growing districts say that 
 if the farmers are permitted to go on developing the lands under cer- 
 tain and safe conditions the output in the course of a few years will 
 double and perhaps treble.
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS, RESOURCES AND 
 THE FUTURE. 
 
 Colonel Rowan's Second Bide Across Cuba A Compliment to the Insurgent Ad- 
 ministrationPlenty of Cattle Remaining in the Island Cuban Soldiers and 
 Officers Praised A Military Commission into Pinar del Rio Forty Thousand 
 Cubans Dead as a Result of Reconcentration Experiences of a Lonesome 
 American A Day on a Cuban Farm A Hospitable Hostess and a Tempting 
 Breakfast Cuban Railways in Need of American Methods The Province of 
 Santiago and Its Conditions Sugar, Coffee, Cacao and Bananas Products of 
 the Forest Iron Ranges Near Santiago The Industries and Commerce of Cuba 
 Volume of Exports and Imports Limitless Possibilities of the "Pearl of 
 the Antilles." 
 
 AMERICAN army officers found that their work was not ended in 
 Cuba with the coming of peace. Into their hands was entrusted 
 the reorganization of civic affairs to a degree which they had not 
 experienced among their duties before. They made journeys into the 
 interior to study the condition of the country and the inhabitants, and 
 their inquiries are proving of great value. 
 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Andrew S. Rowan finished his second ride across 
 Cuba in October. Six weeks in the saddle, a dog-trot journey from 
 Gibara, the north-shore port of Santiago province, which General Garcia 
 captured as an object lesson to the conqueror of Santiago city, to Pinar 
 del Rio, within scent of the Yucatan channel, left as few marks on the 
 wiry infantryman as a night in a sleeping car gives to a seasoned wan- 
 derer. Lieutenant C. F. Parker, Second artillery, who rode mile for 
 mile with him, was worn to a shadow by the unceasing grind of it. 
 
 Brown and lean, the gray that comes at peril's touch showing in 
 hair and beard stubble, Rowan looked just the knight errant who, know- 
 
 607
 
 608 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 
 
 ing little Spanish, would plunge into a wilderness full of Spanish sol- 
 diers and bring out a pocket book crammed with topographical notes 
 and statistics of the enemy's weakness and strength. 
 
 "General Miles wanted to know what the interior of Cuba was like 
 in the rainy season," so Colonel Eowan began his story. "Late in Au- 
 gust he detailed Parker and me to go to Gibara and ride through the 
 island to Pinar del Rio. The condition of the country, 
 
 pi 
 
 t .., the topographical features of each district, the prac- 
 
 KUnAVa ....... , . . 
 
 GREAT RIDE. ticabihty of marching infantry and artillery from 
 place to place, the possibility of an overland route 
 from Santiago to Pinar del Rio these were to be our first studies. In- 
 cidentally we were to visit the chief cities of each province and note the 
 condition and strength of their Spanish garrisons and the encampments 
 of Cubans without their walls. More remotel} 7 we were to demonstrate 
 that the country districts were not impassable even during the rainy 
 season. 
 
 "We left Ponce on the Gussie August 31. Four days later we 
 landed at Gibara and got horses for the trip to Santiago. There was a 
 curious mixture of authority in the town the port in the hands of 
 American naval officers, the town in possession of the Cubans, and the 
 military hospital full of Spanish soldiers. General Feria gave us horses 
 and an escort and the same afternoon we jogged aw r ay to the southward. 
 
 "The blight of war fell heavily on those eastern provinces. The 
 country is a desert void of life beyond any district we saw. The roads 
 are mere trails, losing themselves in seas of grass and underbrush, need- 
 ing a native guide to find them at times. For absolute desolation the 
 strip of Santiago lying west of General Toral's surrender-line is beyond 
 any district we saw. In six days, outside of the towns, we did not meet 
 twenty-five human beings. There were men in the woods, but it took 
 long search to find their wretched huts of palm bark. Except in the 
 completeness of its ruin, the zone the Spaniards still hold in Santiago 
 province is typical of all' the country east of Havana. 
 
 "The striking thing is the perfect order enforced by the insurgents. 
 Traveling is safe as in any state in the Union. Indeed, I am not sure 
 that I would not take more precautions on a horseback journey there 
 than here. Half the time we traveled without escort, only a guide ac-
 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 609 
 
 companying us, and we slept in hammocks in the open, picketing our 
 horses, but taking no other "measures to insure their safety or our own. 
 
 "Two days at Santiago and we broke away for Manzanillo, reaching 
 there on the 18th. There were no signs then of the evacuation which 
 has taken place since, the Spaniards keeping the town with 3,000 men, 
 the Cubans mustering 1,000 in a camp three miles away. We sailed 
 across the bay to Santa Cruz, got fresh horses and hammered away in- 
 land to Puerto Principe. The distress in the province and the city itself 
 is only nominal. The cattle are not all killed yet, and until the last of 
 them have been slaughtered there can be no starvation. The different 
 insurgent chiefs, Maximo Gomez among them, claim that they have 
 70,000 cattle in reserve yet. At some of the camps they give meat to all 
 who come out to the distribution, reconcentrados and Spanish soldiers 
 from the garrisons alike. It is only when you get away from the graz- 
 ing country that the appalling ruin which has fallen on the country 
 strikes you. 
 
 "After Puerto Principe, our route was a catalogue of hunger-ridden 
 cities with deserts between them. Santo Espiritu, Tunas de Zoza, Pla- 
 cetas, Kojas, Caibarien, Camajuani, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, Sagua la 
 Grande, Cardenas, Matanzas these were the prin- 
 cipal places we visited before we reached Havana and 
 
 1 M L 
 
 plunged west into Pinar del Rio. At Placetas we DISTRICTS. 
 struck the sugar country. What cane fields the in- 
 surgents had spared promised an abundant yield, enough perhaps to 
 foot up a third of a full crop before the insurrection began. Down in 
 Pinar del Eio the same thing is true of the tobacco crop good, what 
 there is of it, and one pound where there were three before. 
 
 "What is the best way to help the starving people of the island? 
 The Cuban leaders have a plan, which I'm not sure is not the simplest 
 and in the end the only practical way. It is to pay the Cuban army and 
 send the soldiers back to their farms and plantations. That would end 
 the distress, for it is the mothers and fathers, the wives and children of 
 the insurgents who are in the direst need. The Spaniards, except a few 
 among the reconcentrados, have not known the intense misery which 
 has been the common lot of the natives. The insurgent private gets, 
 nominally, |30 a month. Many of them have served for two years, of
 
 610 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 
 
 course, without pay. Give them only a part of their earnings and the 
 problem would be solved. With provisions for three months they would 
 be able to clear their farms and go back to the old way of living. There 
 would be back pay, perhaps pensions, for the widows and orphans. The 
 pay of the officers is so little greater than that of the men that the entire 
 army may be counted privates. The revenues from import duties, once 
 the Spanish surrender the customs houses, would speedily satisfy the 
 debt which Cuba owes the insurgent army. 
 
 "At Matanzas the Comal is trying another plan. It would be a good 
 plan if there were a Coinal in every Cuban port. But it would require 
 a fleet of transports to fill the hungry mouths of Cuba's thousands, and 
 there seems to be no disposition to send provisions to any other point. 
 There is food enough in the island if the poor had money to purchase it. 
 
 "The insurgents deserve some consideration. They made tre- 
 mendous sacrifices when they went to the woods. They have endured 
 privations without end. As fighters they are as good as any soldiers I 
 know. Their officers are superior to Spanish officers of the same grade 
 in intelligence and bravery. If the bottom had not dropped out of the 
 Spanish war after the battle of Santiago the American army would have 
 found them invaluable allies in their advance upon Havana. Without 
 their aid as guides and scouts the overland march to Havana would have 
 been all but impossible. That's one bit of knowledge Parker and I 
 picked up on our progress westward. The other things we must report 
 to Washington before we can talk of them." 
 
 A few days after Colonel Rowan finished his journey, a party of 
 
 American military officers began a journey of investigation through 
 
 Pinar del Rio. It included Colonels Lee, Livermore, 
 
 AN EXPEDITION Q'Reilley, Bliss and Thompson, and two interpreters. 
 
 PIXAR DEL RIO. They left Havana for the capital of the province at 
 
 noon, October 26, by a special train. The visitors 
 
 made careful inquiry as to the conditions of the province in commerce 
 
 and agriculture and the conditions of the people. 
 
 Pinar del Rio is a town of some 9,000 or 10,000 inhabitants and has 
 only one industry, that of receiving tobacco grown in the surrounding 
 district. The finest tobacco of the island is grown here. Ordinarily a 
 bale of tobacco is worth from $(10 to $120, but bales have sold for as high
 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. Cll 
 
 as |1,000 a bale. Sometimes the wind, the rain, the sun, the soil and the 
 moisture seem specially to favor one little patch throughout thje season, 
 with the result that the product becomes almost priceless in the mind of 
 the tobacco man. The mysteries of this tobacco-growing business are 
 beyond the understanding of the layman. 
 
 The city and district suffered severely on account of the recon- 
 centrado order. It is estimated that there were then 2,000 men, women 
 and children of the community suffering from the effects of starvation. 
 Very few of these victims of the war were to be seen by the traveler. 
 They are afflicted with feet that are swollen to bursting, with shriveled 
 arms, with bloated bodies and other disfigurements resulting from the 
 lack of food. They are beyond human aid. They suffer but little even 
 now. Their senses are dulled to pain. Their bodies are almost in- 
 capable of receiving the benefit of food. They will struggle along in this 
 eondition for days or weeks or even months to their deaths. Some may 
 get well, but the most of them will perish. A few of the helpless 
 creatures go out to beg, but most of them are resigned to their fate. 
 The number given, 2,000, is an estimate based on answers from several, 
 but it is proper to say that no one had any fair idea as to how many 
 there were in such a condition. 
 
 It was estimated by the doctors and merchants that between 30,000 
 and 40,000 had died as the result of the reconcentrado order. The 
 Spanish army prepared some statistics on this subject, which, while 
 open to the charge of prejudice, w r ill be the only figures of value. 
 Those of the natives are certainly worthless. Various men in position 
 to have some knowledge of the matter, estimate the death list from 
 10,000 to 100,000. Pinar del Rio is a very sickly place. The water is 
 taken from shallow wells and springs contaminated by surface drainage 
 and is said to contain all the fever bugs in the books. It is as pure as 
 crystal and very beautiful water. The natives drink it, although in the 
 more careful homes it is boiled and filtered. 
 
 The merchants suffered severely from the destruc- MERCHANTS 
 tion of the tobacco crops and from the bando forbid- 
 ding tobacco to be planted. They had loaned their 
 money to the small farmers and had mortgages on their crops. 
 These mortgaged crops were destroyed. Now, as the tobacco
 
 612 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 
 
 plants are being put in the ground, the merchants who can afford 
 to do so are putting out a second loan to the same farmers. 
 These loans are in the shape of provisions and probably are sold at ex- 
 travagant figures. One commission merchant has lent out in this man- 
 ner $150,000. As a matter of fact it is not so hard on the merchants 
 as it is on the farmers. With two mortgages on their little farms it is 
 hard to see how they can ever pay. Two good crops may save them. 
 The farmers are thrifty and the merchants, except for the prices they 
 charge, are indulgent. They allow plenty of time. 
 
 Pinar del Rio is a very primitive place. It is one place on the 
 island where no English is spoken. It is hard to find any one in the city 
 who can speak anything but Spanish or a little French. The women 
 wear the mantilla, but no hats. The customs of the people are those of 
 a hundred years or more ago. 
 
 The only American then living in the city was Alfredo Raban, who 
 came from New Orleans twenty-two years ago. He said he had had no 
 practice with the English language since that time. He was a tanner. 
 The Spaniards practically drove him out of the business by high taxes. 
 He tanned two or three hides a day, and his total business was between 
 $5,000 and $6,000 a year. On this he was taxed $350, and as he began 
 to do a little better his taxes were raised. He is now a butcher. Aside 
 from general taxes he pays a special tax of 2| cents on each pound of 
 beef. Every small steer he buys costs him more than $100, and he sells 
 the meat at 50 cents a pound. Only a few eat meat. He says the cattle 
 business will soon improve, and that the greatest favor the United 
 States can do the common people is to admit cattle free of duty. The 
 tobacco farmers do not use all of their land each year, and the unused 
 portion is excellent for grazing. 
 
 One of the party of investigators tells an interesting story of the 
 journey they made to a Cuban farm from the city of Pinar del Rio. 
 He says: 
 
 "Early in the morning of October 27 the mules attached to El Globo 
 hotel were ready to take the American military officers on a camp- 
 seeking excursion. The small American party had been swelled to con- 
 siderable proportions by the addition of the civil engineer of the village, 
 the alcalde (the mayor), the principal doctor, the superintendent of the
 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 613 
 
 electric light works and a guide, who was the most useful member of the 
 party, not excepting any colonel. Colonel Lee had been provided with 
 a very strong gray horse, but all others who were mounted rode little 
 tough mules. Colonels Bliss and O'Reilley went in a volante. As soon 
 as all were ready we were off with a clatter. We went at once to a high 
 plain to the northwest of the city. The engineer had been told exactly 
 what was wanted in the way of plenty of pure water and high land. 
 The natives who had property in that direction, which the American 
 officers did not know, were quite certain that the fine springs and the 
 dry land was just what was needed by the Americans. Upon the 
 arrival the land was seen to be all right. There were 
 several hundred acres of high, dry land. Then, we L00 ^ NG FOR A 
 went to the springs. There was about a bucketful in gpR^ >WlER. 
 one and a barrelful in the other. They were a mile 
 apart. It had been raining and the water was very muddy. The resi- 
 dents were asked if they thought this sufficient water for 2,000 men. 
 They thought it extremely likely that the water would suffice if it was 
 carefully husbanded. Then the residents knew of a famous spring ten 
 kilometers away. It was really a magnificent spring. They were so 
 glowing in their descriptions of the purity and grandeur of this spring 
 that the party cantered toward the mountains, from one of the ravines of 
 which the spring was said to gush forth. Away we rattled and splashed. 
 At times we were on high, rock}- hills, and then we would be down in 
 the muddiest places conceivable. The sun had passed the meridian, 
 and Colonel Lee with the assistance of an interpreter, proceeded to test 
 the natives as to their knowledge of distance. lie found after an hour 
 and a half's traveling that the spring was still ten kilometers away. 
 An explanation was sternly demanded, and it was learned that the first 
 time the men had been speaking of distance as the crow flies, and that 
 now the}- were talking of distance as it must be traveled. This was a 
 bitter blow, as it was 1 o'clock and our breakfast had consisted only of 
 coffee, with dry bread without butter. The real breakfast was to have 
 been had at 11 o'clock. It was decided to stop at a farmhouse. 
 
 "This brought us to one of the pleasantest experiences of the jour- 
 ney. The farmer and his wife received us most cordially, and insisted 
 that they would like to do a little more than simply provide milk for
 
 614 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 
 
 the Americans. They wanted to get breakfast. Colonel Lee at last 
 consented. Then there was such a bustle in the housewife department 
 in that dwelling tha^t may be only compared to the preparations for 
 dinner in a western home, when all the thrashing-machine hands are on 
 the place. Narviso Chevaria was the farmer. He had a wife and two 
 daughters, but a great many more persons gathered to assist the women 
 folk. Senor Chevaria has a farm of eighteen hectares, or about thirty- 
 eight acres. He has a stone house, with two front rooms, one a large 
 living room, and off that a guest chamber. There was an L to the rear, 
 in which was one storeroom and a kitchen and another bedroom. The 
 large front room was plainly furnished. In the center was a long table. 
 There were a dozen chairs, made of strong oak, covered with skins. 
 There was no glass in the windows, but there were heavy wooden shut- 
 ters. There were some old farm implements piled in one corner of the 
 room, and at one side was a Winchester rifle and a machete. Cots were 
 also strewn about. In the smaller room were some images with candles 
 in front of them. It had no other furniture. The floors of these rooms 
 were made of bricks about eight inches square. There was a vine- 
 covered porch in front. 
 
 "The farmer had a large palm-thatched barn and one other farm 
 building. There was a row of cocoanut trees leading up to the house. 
 From these we gathered cocoanuts before breakfast and drank the milk. 
 It was as clear as the purest water and very refreshing. We also 
 plucked bananas, but did not eat them. They were carried to the 
 kitchen, where the woman fried them for our dinner. At one side of the 
 house were a number of bearing coffee trees. The berries were in 
 various stages of ripeness. The coffee we had for our dinner was made 
 from berries from these trees. Growing beside them were some lemon 
 trees, which also assisted in furnishing beverages for the meal. Back 
 of the house were several orange trees. They were of the sweet variety, 
 and the fruit was delicious. There were two kinds of oranges, the 
 second variety being not so good to eat. Bees were busy providing 
 honey, and as they can work the year round all the honey can be taken 
 at any time. On the other hand, the bountifulness of nature has made 
 the bee a little improvident. As he is not compelled to store away food 
 for winter he is reckless and lazy.
 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 615 
 
 "While our breakfast was cooking, the men took a walk over Senor 
 Chevaria's farm. He was putting out 1,000,000 tobacco plants and plow- 
 men were getting the ground ready. He had a little patch of corn and a 
 small field of rice. lie had gardens of vegetables and 
 a patch of banana trees. lie had enough cane for LUX URIES OF 
 
 -, . ., LIFE ON A 
 
 sugar, ana, m fact, seemed to raise everything neces- CUBAN FARM. 
 sary for his home, llis marketable product was his 
 tobacco. The soil seemed to be very rich. It should not be forgotten 
 that he also had apple trees and pineapples. We did not see the latter, 
 as they were on another part of the farm. 
 
 "The breakfast came in about an hour. First we had boiled eggs 
 and omelets. With these we had fried bananas and sweet potatoes. 
 We also had chicken, ham, some dried meats, lettuce, as good bread as 
 was ever baked by woman, guava jelly, all kinds of fruits and excellent 
 coffee. In fact, it was a specially good meal. A first-class claret was 
 also served. These hospitable women had prepared this meal on an 
 hour's notice for a dozen hungry men. . Their happiness at being able 
 to serve us was the constant delight of the Americans. Many of them 
 had bare feet and wore somewhat scanty clothing, but their gracious- 
 ness and courtesy could not be exceeded. With the exception of the 
 bread and salt, everything to be had, even to the pepper, was raised on 
 the place. It was a remarkable breakfast. 
 
 "In the same breakfast room less than two mouths ago there had 
 been a conference of the principal insurgent leaders. The owner of the 
 farm had evidently been a great Cuban sympathizer.. In fact, it was ap- 
 parent that most of the farmers of this district were distinctively insur- 
 gents. As we cantered away there was a great waving of handkerchiefs 
 and shouting of good wishes. They were profuse in hoping that the 
 Americans had come to stay and that they would bring better times to 
 the Cubans. 
 
 "On the way back from the foothills we ran into an insurgent camp. 
 The soldiers and officers were apparently very glad to see the American 
 officers. One of the officers gave his sword, with which he had fought 
 three years, to Colonel Lee. The American officer objected strongly to 
 taking the officer's arms, but the Cuban insisted. These Cubans wore 
 frequently met afterward and were fervid in their greetings. On the
 
 616 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 
 
 way back to Havana, Colonel Alberto Brito, a commander under Gen- 
 eral Eoderiguiz, boarded the train and offered his services to the Amer- 
 icans. He said that he had had a great many years' experience with 
 yellow fever. He thought his skill might be of some use to the Amer- 
 icans, and if so it w T as available in any way they saw fit. He was six 
 feet tall, with a fine head, and was about 40 years of age, being one of 
 the most splendid-looking soldiers I ever saw. Farther toward Havana 
 on our way back, at Guira, the whole town had turned out and wanted 
 the officers to stop for a reception. The station had been decorated with 
 American flags. The ladies of the city, with the American colors in 
 their hats, were on the platform and cheered the officers. The men gave 
 cheer after cheer for the Americanos. It was the only cheering heard 
 while on the trip, and it certainly sounded all right. The people were 
 frantic with delight. A Cuban on the train explained that the} 7 felt just 
 the same at other places where crowds were assembled, but they did not 
 know whether it would be proper to cheer or not, and to avoid making 
 mistakes they had kept still." 
 
 The Cuban government regulations for the operations of railroads 
 have this paragraph: "The hand baggage of a gentleman shall consist 
 of one hatbox, one satchel and one fighting chicken." 
 
 This being one of the rules for the government of the railroad prop- 
 erties of Cuba, it may be set down that there are others equally as 
 foolish, and that the railroads are oppressed on senseless regulations. 
 As a matter of practice the railroads will permit a 
 RATES man ^ o carr y sixty-eight pounds of baggage, including 
 
 OF CUBA. the fighting chicken. This is a concession. One rail- 
 road 123 miles long has three first-class coaches, five 
 second-class coaches and eight third-class coaches. They are in bad 
 condition, and would not be acceptable to a second-rate road in the 
 United States. This same road has eighty-five freight cars, including 
 box, flat and coal cars. This road runs through one of the most popu- 
 lous districts of Cuba, and one of the most productive. The fare one 
 way for a passenger is $7.40 in gold, a distance of 123 miles as stated. 
 Added to this is a government tax of 10 per cent and a small fixed tax 
 which the railroad collects from the passenger for the government. 
 The total fare for the distance is a few cents less than $9. The tariff
 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 617 
 
 on a ton of first-class freight for the same distance is $22. A govern- 
 ment tax must also be collected from the shipper. The railroads are 
 all in the hands of private corporations, but the government exercises 
 considerable control. 
 
 The high prices for shipment and travel and the poor condition of 
 the rolling stock and equipment form only a part of the troubles of the 
 American military board trying to arrange for the transportation of 
 troops. Lately there has been some consolidation of the different sys- 
 tems, but there remain fourteen different systems. The annoyance and 
 vexation which this causes the shipper may best be explained by saying 
 that in shipping a carload of freight from Havana to Cienfuegos four 
 different railroads are used. Payments must be made separately to 
 these different roads. Each one makes out its own bill of lading and 
 incidentally pays its own government tax. Settlement must be made 
 with each one of these roads. There is no system of prorating 
 charges. 
 
 The charges are so high that they are almost prohibitive, even for 
 the United States government. In the United States it was usual to 
 take a train of three sections, with twelve cars to the section, for the 
 transportation of a regiment. The problem here becomes one of time. 
 How long will it take to transport four regiments 100 miles over a road 
 that has less than twenty small passenger cars? Presuming that the 
 soldiers might eventually be moved to their destination, how long w r ill it 
 take to ship the necessary stores, equipment and forage? The meager 
 facts make clear the difficulties and explain why the American military 
 board probably has not yet been able to announce to Washington its 
 transportation arrangements. 
 
 It is very likely that water transportation will be used for the 
 military stations in many parts of the island, but as a matter of necessity 
 there must be some interior stations. In some manner the railroads 
 must take care of this transportation. 
 
 The province of Santiago de Cuba, throughout the term of the in- 
 surrection, was always known by the insurgents as Cuba Libre, so en- 
 tirely was it in the possession of their forces. There never was a time 
 when the most exuberant of General Weyler's claims took the form 
 that Santiago was "pacified." With a railway connecting this province
 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 
 
 and the western portions of the island, it is bound to flourish. Several 
 excellent harbors, prosperous towns, and the splen- 
 
 PROY- ^^ va ii ev o f Cauto insure its prominence commercially 
 
 USCE AJfD 
 
 ITS RESOURCES. an( ^ agriculturally. The raising of cane and the manu- 
 facture of sugar are the chief sources of wealth in the 
 province. The city of Manzanillo on the west coast of the province is 
 the port for a splendid agricultural country. In the vicinity of the city 
 are many centrals where the grinding of cane is done for the owner of 
 the estate by men who make their profit altogether out of the business 
 of grinding, as described in the chapter regarding sugar culture in 
 Puerto Rico. 
 
 Guantanamo, Santiago and Manzanillo are the three important 
 sugar shipping ports of eastern Cuba. Next in importance agricultur- 
 ally come the coffee and cocoa plantations, with which Santiago 
 province is thickly covered. Coffee and cocoa plants are generally 
 grown on the same "fincas," or plantations, the frail coffee shrub re- 
 quiring for its growth the shade offered by the tall and overhanging 
 cocoa tree. The coffee shrub yields its crop in November, but, as it is 
 not regular and uniform, three harvests are made annually, the first in 
 November, the second in January and the third in March. Large 
 quantities of cocoa have been shipped annual!}' to Spain and France, 
 at prices varying between $15 and $17 per hundredweight, free on 
 board; but for many years no coffee has been exported from the island 
 of Cuba. The reason for this lies in the fact that Cuban coffee, like 
 Cuban tobacco, is of a rare quality and aroma, raised and selected by 
 experts, and of necessity bringing a price which would not easily find 
 a market for the product abroad. On the fields Cuban coffee sells for 
 $21 to $25 per 100 pounds. 
 
 In bygone days those "cafetales" (coffee plantations) used to be the 
 pride of the Spanish grandees, their original owners, who lived on their 
 plantations in magnificent style, feasting and merrymaking and paying 
 little attention to the management of their estates while they yielded 
 a handsome living. But gradually their plantations ceased to produce 
 those kingly incomes. Frenchmen, driven over from Haiti, formed a 
 strong colony in Santiago in those early days, and they took advantage 
 of the tax and short-sighted hidalgos. They loaned their money on the
 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 
 
 plantations, had themselves appointed overseers, foreclosed their 
 
 mortgages and became the owners of the rich "cafetales," most of which 
 
 to this day are owned by their descendants. A very 
 
 common parasite creeper which clings to the tough LIFE ^ N T " E 
 
 and sturdy mahogany trees, choking and killing them PLANTATIONS. 
 
 inch by inch, until after twenty years the trees are 
 
 dead and decayed, is still called "the French overseer." 
 
 Maize, yams, sweet potatoes and other vegetables grow everywhere 
 with little care or supervision. On most coffee plantations these vege- 
 tables are grown, which amply feed and sustain the planter, who, after 
 six months, is on a self-sustaining basis, with a goodly coffee crop ahead 
 as clean profit. 
 
 Around the pretty little city of Baracoa, northwest of Cape Maisi, 
 has centered a considerable commerce in bananas, cocoanuts and choco- 
 late. Until the outbreak of the Cuban revolution, the city was highly 
 prosperous and on an average fourteen fruiters a week called in the 
 harbor to obtain cargoes. In those days, three or more years ago, Bara- 
 coa did a big business with the outside w T orld. In one of those good 
 years over 2,000,000 bunches of bananas were shipped to the United 
 States, over 4,000,000 cocoanuts, about 5,000 barrels of cocoanut oil 
 (fifty-tw r o gallons to the barrel) and large quantities of pineapples, wild 
 oranges, coffee and cocoa beans from w r hich chocolate is made. A barrel 
 of cocoanut oil weighs 375 pounds and was worth 10 cents a pound on 
 the docks in Baracoa. The country for miles around pa\ r s tribute to 
 Baracoa in days of peace, and the citizens of the pretty little town be- 
 lieve those days will return if the Americans govern the island. 
 
 Good land, suitable in every w r ay for banana culture, can be rented 
 at a nominal price. It can be bought outright all the w r ay from 50 cents 
 to f 50 an acre, depending on location. It costs to clear the woods and 
 plant banana roots $1,000 a caballira (about thirty-three acres). This 
 cost includes all the expenses of clearing, planting, cultivating and har- 
 vesting. Within fourteen months from the time the clearing begins the 
 fruit is ready for the market. On a caballira 10,000 banana trees can be 
 planted, but, as not every tree will bear, it is safe to figure on 8,000 
 bunches for the first yield. First-class bunches will bring on the planta- 
 tion from 35 to 45 cents each; second-class bunches from 30 to 35 cents.
 
 620 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE, PUWRE. 
 
 In Baracoa it is the practice to cut down all shoots but one, thus forcing 
 the single shoot to bear one of the large bunches of long, thick bananas 
 which find ready sale in the United States. These figures were given by 
 Senor Simon, who has thousands of acres in his plantations. Some idea 
 of the importance of the banana industry in the Baracoa district can be 
 gathered from the fact that there are three cable ways used for bringing 
 the fruit down to the coast from the hills. One of these cable ways is 
 over four miles long and it cost $200,000 to build. It has a capacity of 
 15,000 bunches of bananas a day, bringing them down in lots of twelve 
 bunches at a time. 
 
 The Boston Fruit Company of Port Antonio, Jamaica, has devel- 
 oped the banana business of that island until it has reached enormous 
 proportions. It is probable that their interests w r ill be extended to 
 Cuba owing to the remarkable opportunity offering there. 
 
 The woods and forests of eastern Cuba abound in every variety of 
 hardwood, the principal being mahogany, cedar, rosewood and "ma- 
 jagua," a wooa known the world over as the strongest and most durable 
 of all woods, of greenish, ashy hue and an exceedingly close grain. 
 Most in fact, nine-tenths of the woodlands are virgin forests which 
 it would take years and years to decimate and which 
 
 WOODS AM nave thus far escaped destruction, owing to the lack 
 
 EASTERN CUBA. ^ transportation facilities to the seacoast. The "ya- 
 
 ya," or lancetspar, grows by the thousand acres, and 
 
 so does the lignum vitse, so much sought after for the manufacture of 
 
 block sheaves and of heavy balls used in bowling alleys. 
 
 Palm leaf in great quantities is exported to Europe and the United 
 States for the manufacture of hats. Honey and beeswax are other 
 very important articles of export, and modern hives on the plan of the 
 French and Dutch hives would amply repay the investment. Some 
 parcels of tortoise shell find their way weekly into the market, and as a 
 rule are -shipped to Paris. 
 
 Next in importance to its agricultural products Santiago de Cuba's 
 iron and manganese mines demand universal attention. The great iron 
 mountains and mines of Santiago are owned and operated by three com- 
 panies the Juragua Iron Company, the Spanish-American Company 
 and the Sigua Iron Company. The Juragua is the oldest and largest
 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 621 
 
 company. This company, of which Major Bent of the Pennsylvania 
 Steel Company is president, was formed and the property acquired in 
 1881. Its shipments of Bessemer ore so far exceed 3,000,000 tons. The 
 total output of the Juragua mines is controlled by the Bethlehem Iron 
 Works, the Pennsylvania Steel Company and the Maryland Steel Com- 
 pany. Its maximum monthly output is 40,000 tons. Siboney is the 
 shipping port of the Juragua Iron Company's mines. 
 
 The Spanish-American Iron Company, of which Charles F. Rand of 
 New York is president, acquired its property in 1889. Its shipments 
 thus far have been 400,000 tons to Philadelphia, Baltimore, England, 
 Scotland, Wales, Belgium and Germany, where it has been sold in the 
 open market. Its maximum monthly output is 29,000 tons. Baiquiri 
 is the shipping port of the Spanish-American Iron Company. 
 
 The Sigua Iron Company, which started with a big boom in 1890, 
 built a broad-gauge railroad nine miles long and extensive buildings 
 and sheds, shipped four cargoes in 1894 aggregating 12,000 tons, and 
 has not been heard from since, abandoning its property and closing- 
 down its mines. Sigua, about seven miles east of Baiquiri, was its port 
 of shipment. All its buildings, sheds and wharves, valued at $2,000,000, 
 were burned down by the insurgents, and their railroad beds and 
 trestles, evidently very badly built, have all been washed away in the 
 last three years by the heavy rains. Their machine shops have all been 
 destroyed and were at one time used as salt works by the Cubans. 
 
 With a wealth of natural resources, rich in agricultural and min- 
 eral soil, Santiago de Cuba only awaits American brains, enterprise 
 and capital to make it one of the richest as well as one of the most 
 beautiful spots in the world. So it is throughout the island. From 
 Cape Maisi to Cape San Antonio there are waiting opportunities by 
 the score for the man with brains and energy, or capital and energy, 
 and sufficient sagacity to take advantage of them. 
 
 The industries and commerce of Cuba have been greatly diminished 
 by the state of insurrection and war which has existed in the island for 
 more than three years. From a summary of Cuban trade printed in the 
 "Review of the World's Commerce," recently published by the Depart- 
 ment of State, it appears that the imports of the island during the fiscal 
 year ended April, 1896, amounted to 166,160,754, and the exports to $94,-
 
 622 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE PVfVRE. 
 
 395,536. In 1893, the trade of Cuba with the United States alone 
 showed the following figures: Imports, $78,706,506; 
 OFFICIAL REPORTS exportSj $24,157,698. The trade had fallen off during 
 CUBAN COMMERCE. tue nsca l J ear ended June 30, 1897, to imports, $18,- 
 " 406,815; exports, $8,259,776. During the years 1891- 
 96, inclusive, the commerce of Cuba with Spain amounted to about $30,- 
 000,000 per annum, but in 1892, it rose to as much as $37,600,000, and in 
 1895, to about $33,500,000. The imports of Cuba from Spain were 
 usually about three times the exports of Cuba to Spain, the latter being 
 about $4,250,000 iii 189*6 and $9,570,000 in 1892. The imports from 
 Spain ranged during the six years between $22,000,000 in 1891 and 
 $28,000,000 in 1892. The principal articles of import and export be- 
 tween Cuba and the United States are show T n in the following tables for 
 the year 1893, when the trade reached its maximum of value since 1874, 
 and the year 1897: 
 
 PRINCIPAL IMPORTS FROM CUBA INTO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Articles. 1893. 1897. 
 Free of duty: 
 
 Fruits, including nuts % 2,347,800 $ 154,422 
 
 Molasses 1,081,034 5,448 
 
 Sugar 60,637,631 
 
 Wood, unmanufactured 1,071,123 63,670 
 
 Dutiable: 
 
 Tobacco 
 
 Unmanufactured 8,940,058 2,306,067 
 
 Manufactured 2,727,030 1,971,214 
 
 Iron ore 641,943 
 
 Sugar 11,982,473 
 
 PRINCIPAL EXPORTS FROM THE UNITED STATES TO CUBA. 
 
 Articles. 1893. 1897. 
 
 Wheat flour $2,821,557 $564,638 
 
 Corn 582,050 247,905 
 
 Carriages and street cars, and parts of 316,045 3,755 
 
 Cars, passenger and freight, for steam railroads 271,571 9,202 
 
 Coal 931,371 638,912 
 
 Locks, hinges and other builders' hardware 395,964 49,380 
 
 Railroad bars or rails, of steel 326,654 14,650 
 
 Saws and tools 243,544 34.G8G 
 
 Locomotives 418,776 20,638 
 
 Stationary engines 130,652 1 ,189 
 
 Boilers and parts of engines 322,284 35,578 
 
 Wire 321,120 35,905
 
 CUBAN CONDITIONS AND THE FUTURE. 623 
 
 Articles. 1893. 1897. 
 
 Manufactures of leather ....................................... $ 191,394 $ 39,753 
 
 Mineral oil ................................................... 514,808 306,916 
 
 Hog products ................................................. 5,401,022 2,224,485 
 
 Beans and peas ............................................... 392,962 276,635 
 
 Potatoes ...................................................... 554,153 331,553 
 
 Eoards, deals, planks, joists, etc ............................... 1,095,928 286,387 
 
 Household furniture .......................................... 217,126 34,288 
 
 In normal years, Cuba exports the greater part of its products to the 
 United States, the principal articles being sugar, molasses, and tobacco, 
 but by reason of the operation of the former Spanish tariff, discrimin- 
 ating in favor of Spanish products, the inland imported from the 
 United States a relatively small proportion of what it consumed. Spain 
 and Great Britain furnished the greater part of the imports of Cuba. 
 It may be assumed that, with the relinquishment of Spanish sover- 
 eignty, there will no longer be discrimination against United States 
 products. The tariff regulations applied to ports of Cuba in possession 
 of the United States, as the result of the recent military operations, 
 impose the minimum Spanish duty, and the United States products 
 \vill immediately reap the benefit of a change which places the United 
 States on the same footing with other countries. 
 
 The future of Cuba is limitless in its possibilities. Made whole- 
 some in its cities by correct sanitation and wholesome in its government 
 by honest administration, no prophecy could be too glowing. This 
 great treasury is our nearest neighbor in the West 
 Indies and is most readilv accessible. The conditions A GLA:SCE AT 
 
 CU15A IN 
 
 of life and societ have been crude in man details 
 
 and by no means such as appeal to enlightened Amer- 
 icans. But these things will be corrected in great extent by the first 
 influx of American colonists, and the multiplication of Americans in 
 the island will of itself correct that which has been its greatest dis- 
 advantage from our own point of view, the absence of a congenial 
 American society. Nature has done her part for Cuba. It remains for 
 industry and wisdom applied through the channels of labor and capital 
 to make Cuba one of the garden spots of earth.
 
 Book iv. 
 
 CDc Hawaiian islands.
 
 "THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC." 
 
 VIRTUALLY in the midst of the greatest sweep of open water in 
 the Pacific ocean, lies the archipelago known as the Hawaiian is- 
 lands. Long ago it gained the suggestive title of "The Cross-roads 
 of the Pacific," because of its peculiar position at the point where almost 
 every line of trans-oceanic travel passed through or near the island me- 
 tropolis. 
 
 Honolulu, the capital, is the largest city in all the island groups 
 of the Pacific, unless one include in the comparison the cities of New 
 Zealand, Australia and the extreme Orient. Its growth in population 
 and in commercial importance has followed all the laws that govern 
 the growth of cities elsewhere. The comparison rises 
 
 HONOI TILT! CRE 
 
 to mind instantly between Honolulu and the cities of ATE Jj B y COMMER. 
 our own middle west. Within our borders, where CIAL NEEDS. 
 farmers congregate for their mail, for their market 
 supplies, for the selling of their grain and the shoeing of their horses, 
 there must begin the nucleus of a city and from those humble begin- 
 nings have sprung some centers of commerce and wealth which are now 
 most notable in our land. 
 
 After like fashion, the demands of commerce, trade and travel 
 brought the Hawaiian islands from the unimportant position of a 
 tropical group inhabited by savages in a waste of waters, to the proud 
 station of to-day. In the phraseology of the mariner's chart, Honolulu 
 lies in latitude 21 degrees, 18 minutes north of the equator and 157 de- 
 grees, 52 minutes west of Greenwich. This is about sixty miles south 
 of Havana and Hong Kong, which are on an almost exact east and west 
 line with one another, and about sixty miles north of the city of 
 Mexico and Santiago de Cuba. The Isle of Pines, which lies just south 
 
 629
 
 630 "THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC." 
 
 of the Cuban coast below Havana, is of almost the same size and the 
 
 same latitude as the island of Oahu, on which Honolulu is situated. 
 
 The parallel of latitude which passes through Honolulu, crosses the 
 
 Atlantic ocean 125 miles north of the capital of Puerto Rico, strikes 
 
 across the Sahara desert of Africa, passes just north of Mecca, in the 
 
 Arabian peninsula, cuts into India 100 miles north of Bombay, passes 
 
 just south of Calcutta, and reaches the Pacific ocean again near Hong 
 
 Kong. A line drawn north and south through Hono- 
 
 m^^w ^ v lulu strikes the peninsula of Alaska and cuts through 
 
 I ill, H A AIIA> 
 
 ISLANDS. it at the widest part, reaching the Arctic ocean at 
 that extremest of United States outposts in the Polar 
 regions, Point Barrow, the shelter of ice-bound whalers. South of Hon- 
 olulu one may travel all the way to the icebergs of the Antarctic, see- 
 ing no land except the scattered islands of the Hervey group. 
 
 It is 2,089 miles from San Francisco to Honolulu-, about two-thirds 
 of this distance being credited to the westward sailing and one-third 
 to the southward. It is when one draws lines upon the map corres- 
 ponding with the distances here indicated that one realizes the apt- 
 ness of the phrase in calling Honolulu the "Cross-roads of the Pacific." 
 From Honolulu to Sitka, the capital of Alaska, is but 2,400 miles and 
 to Unalaska, the port of sealers, whalers and gold-seekers, but 2,000 
 miles. It is but 3,400 miles from Honolulu to Yokohama, 4,900 to Hong 
 Kong, 2,700 to the Fiji islands, 2,300 to the Samoan islands, 3,850 to 
 Auckland, New Zealand, 4,700 miles to Sydney, New South Wales, 
 2,400 to Tahiti in the Society islands, 4,700 miles to Panama, and 4,200 
 miles to the western entrance of the Nicaragua canal. 
 
 AND THE If one nas thought them remote from our California 
 
 PACIFIC PORTS, ports, it is worth remembering that the outlying 
 
 Aleutian islands extend far westward of the Hawaiian 
 
 group and are much farther from San Francisco, through a sea which 
 
 is much more inclined to be stormy than is the more southerly Pacific. 
 
 Traffic from the Canadian ports, as well as from those of the United 
 States, touches Honolulu in sailing to the islands of the South Pacific 
 and the British colonies of New Zealand and Australia, Vessels sailing 
 from San Francisco and San Diego call at Honolulu on their way to 
 the ports of Japan, China and India. Traffic between Japan and the
 
 "THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC." 631 
 
 cities of Mexico and South America always reaches Honolulu, while 
 steamers and sailing vessels from the Atlantic ocean rounding Cape 
 Horn or passing through the straits of Magellan for Japanese ports 
 and the ports of north China almost always come to the same island 
 capital. 
 
 Honolulu has been the port of whalers ever since the first coloniza- 
 tion of the Hawaiian group by white people. From that harbor they 
 have sailed into Behring sea, after obtaining provisions and supplies 
 for the voyage, to return there a year later for the disposal of their 
 product or to refit for the long homeward voyage. From the same 
 docks have sailed other adventurers into the south seas seeking copra 
 or beche-de-mer or kauri gum or pearls or gold, with other treasures 
 more mythical to tempt them into the ocean of romantic story. 
 
 By force of circumstances and the demands of fleets Honolulu grew 
 to be a metropolis and a city of important commerce while yet its popu- 
 lation was smaller than that of many a western town of little more 
 than local fame. Dry-docks, engine-works, warehouses, banks, and 
 great companies devoted to export and import trade, 
 grew and prospered. The delights of island life in a 
 perfect climate tempted men there for rest and pleas- ISLANDS. 
 ure. The most marvelous volcanoes of the world 
 offered attractions for tourists that could not be duplicated elsewhere. 
 The wealth of the island products, sugar and coffee, tempted agricul- 
 ture. There was nothing lacking that could appeal to the traveler. 
 Then came changing conditions in island government that added the 
 romance of history to the story of Hawaii. This is the group whose 
 government we have assumed. Its story cannot fail of interest and 
 importance.
 
 CHAPTER XLIV. 
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII. 
 
 Beginning of Definite Knowledge of the Hawaiian People Early Discoveries by 
 Spanish. Navigators Captain Cook's Arrival and Reception Trouble between 
 Natives and Sailors Death of Captain Cook Kamehameha I. and His Reign 
 Arrival of the First American Missionaries The Second Kamehameha Dies 
 in London Lord Byron's Visit to Honolulu Outrages upon the Islanders 
 Progress of Education and Religion The British Flag Raised in Honolulu 
 Independence of the Kingdom Guaranteed Rule of the Last Kamehameha 
 Leprosy Discovered in the Islands Reciprocity Treaty with the United States 
 Death of King Kalakaua in San Francisco. 
 
 THE history of the Hawaiian islands and their native inhabitants, 
 like that of other nations, begins to take definite form after cen- 
 turies which are lost in the midst of ages. The traditions of the 
 prehistoric times are of great interest to those who wish to make 
 specific study of the people of the Polynesian islands and their voyages, 
 but they are too vague to be treated here in detail. Beginning, how- 
 ever, about the middle of the eleventh century it is possible to know 
 with a considerable degree of accuracy the actual progress of Hawaiian 
 history, so that for more than 800 years we are able to trace the career 
 of the people, their government and their wars. 
 
 About the end of the thirteenth century, a warlike and ambitious 
 local chief of the island of Hawaii undertook to subdue the whole 
 group. He was successful in the islands of Maui, Molokai and Oahu, 
 but in Kauai was totally defeated, his fleet being taken and his army 
 destroyed. That island maintained its independence from the rest of 
 the group until the present century. From this time until the conquest 
 of the group by Kamehameha, the conqueror, Judge Fornander, a local 
 student, has tersely said: "It was an era of strife, dynastic ambitions, 
 internal and external wars, on each island, with all their deteriorating
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII. 633 
 
 consequences of anarchy, depopulation, social and intellectual degrada- 
 tion, loss of liberty, loss of knowledge, loss of arts." 
 
 Wars became more frequent and more cruel, while the EXPLORERS 
 
 common people became more and more degraded and BEFORE COOK 
 oppressed and were probably decreasing in numbers 
 in Hawaii as well as in Tahiti before the end of the eighteenth century. 
 
 The discovery of the Hawaiian islands by Captain James Cook was 
 the turning point in their history, bringing them into connection with 
 the rest of the world and ushering in an era of remarkable prosperity. 
 He, however, was not the first European to reach the islands. There is 
 fairly complete evidence that a Spanish vessel was driven ashore on the 
 island of Hawaii in 1527, it being one of a squadron of three which 
 sailed from the Mexican coast for the East Indies. Again in 1555, the 
 Spanish navigator Juan Gaetano is believed to have touched at the 
 Hawaiian islands, the evidence being found on old Spanish charts which 
 locate a group approximately in the position of this archipelago. 
 Fortunately, however, the Spanish made no use of this discovery, thus 
 permitting the Hawaiians to escape the sad fate of the natives of the 
 Ladrones and Carolines under Spanish dominion. These discoveries 
 consequently have no bearing on the civilization of the islands any 
 more than the Norsemen's voyages to the American coast had upon the 
 colonization of the United States. 
 
 At the time of the birth of Kamehameha, in the year 1736, the 
 islands were torn by warfare of the most desperate sort. When he 
 became old enough to share in the fighting, the young prince dis- 
 tinguished himself in these campaigns as a brave and skillful warrior. 
 
 The war was still going on in the island of Maui when Captain 
 Cook reached the islands. The great navigator had already made two 
 voyages of discovery around the globe and was then making his third, 
 to find, if possible, a northern passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic 
 ocean. With his two armed ships, the Resolution and the Discovery, on 
 Sunday morning, the 18th of January, 1778, he dis- 
 
 covered the island of Oahu. The next morning he NATIVES ARE 
 
 CORDIAL AND 
 approached the island of Kauai and on the 20th made HOSPITABLE 
 
 a landing at Waimea on the southwest coast. The 
 
 natives treated him with great deference, furnished him with hogs,
 
 634 HISTORICAL SKETCPl OF HAW AIL 
 
 fowls and vegetables in exchange for nails and pieces of iron, and 
 willingly assisted in filling and rolling the water casks. 
 
 Having explored the coast of Alaska, Behring straits and the Arctic 
 ocean until he was stopped by the ice fields, Captain Cook returned to 
 spend the winter in the sunny isles. He cruised about the islands 
 during the month of December and then anchored off the west coast of 
 Haw r aii for the month of January. After the first ten days the natives 
 began to tire of their guests and to show them less respect. Their 
 abandoned conduct was such as to disgust even heathens, the lavish 
 contributions levied upon the people for their support began to be felt as 
 a heavy burden, and the absolute lack of consideration for native prop- 
 erty and native rights was a source of constant irritation. 
 
 Finally, on Sunday, the 14th of February, came the culmination of 
 the difficulties. There had been fights between natives and seamen, 
 and theft on both sides. Captain Cook with a lieutenant and nine 
 marines landed, intending to take the king a prisoner and hold him on 
 board as a hostage for peace and the restoration of stolen property. 
 On their way to the beach a struggle occurred which was begun by the 
 British. A high chief was killed by a musket-shot from the boat and 
 Captain Cook himself then shot a man dead who had thrown a stone. 
 In the general melee which followed, Captain Cook was stabbed in the 
 back with an iron dagger. Four of the marines were killed, but the 
 others and the officers escaped to their vessels. Seventeen natives, 
 five of whom were chiefs, were killed in the affray. 
 
 That night the body of Captain Cook was taken to a hilltop, where 
 the regular funeral rites were performed. The flesh was removed from 
 the bones and burned, while the bones were tied up with red feathers 
 and deified. During the week that followed several fights took place 
 between landing parties and the natives, the village was burned and 
 various low acts of cruelty were perpetrated. Finally, 
 
 r a u *tfh chief was sent to sue for peace, and on Saturday 
 
 DETAILS OF 
 
 SAVAGE WARFARE. ne delivered up part of the bones of the explorer. 
 The next day the remains of the late commander were 
 committed to the deep with military honors. The ships finally sailed 
 from the group on the 25th of February. 
 
 Such was the impression made on the civilized world by the tragical
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII. 635 
 
 death of Captain Cook that no foreign vessel touched at the islands for 
 more than seven years. During this time the group was rent into sev- 
 eral independent petty kingdoms. It was not until 1796 that the 
 islands were all brought under the rule of a single king by the suc- 
 cessive victories of Kamehameha I., the conqueror. 
 
 Several landings were made from foreign vessels, both English and 
 American during the last few years of the century, and in several cases 
 conflicts resulted from the indignities offered by the strangers to the 
 natives. Violence, disorder and death were frequent, and from the 
 invaders came the seeds of disease which have ravaged the islands and 
 weakened the people until the present day. Vancouver made three 
 voyages to the islands and finally gained considerable favor from the 
 people and was treated with unbounded hospitality. For a time Great 
 Britain even had a partial title to the islands, for in 179-1 a grand council 
 of chiefs placed Hawaii under the British flag as a protectorate, reserv- 
 ing merely the right to regulate their own affairs. 
 
 The nations of Europe did not need long to discover that the 
 Hawaiian group would be of great value to them in the control of the 
 trade of the Pacific. From 1809 to 1816, there were successive move- 
 ments on the part of Governor Baranoff, the Russian 
 
 ruler of Alaska, looking toward the formation of a KATIOXS CAST 
 ' fe COYETOUS EYES 
 
 colony on the islands. England was interested 111 ^ HAWAII. 
 
 maintaining influence over the islands, Spanish ves- 
 sels made several calls on their w r ay between the American coast and 
 the Philippines, while numerous trading vessels from Oregon reached 
 the islands in search of cargoes of sandal wood. 
 
 Kamehameha I. died May 18, 1819, at the age of eighty-two } T ears 
 and in the primitive faith of his ancestors. His work was done. He 
 had consolidated the group under one government, put an end to 
 feudal anarchy and pett} r wars, and prepared the way for civilization 
 and Christianity. His faults were those of the age and society in which 
 he lived, and both morally and mentally he was far above the other 
 chiefs of his time. 
 
 The son of Kamehameha, Liholiho, was formally vested with the 
 sovereign power as Kamehameha II. In the first year of his reign, idol- 
 atry and the system of "tabu" were abolished, an advance hardly
 
 636 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII. 
 
 calculable in the civilization of the islands. Soon after this royal de- 
 cree was promulgated the first company of American missionaries to the 
 islands embarked at Boston. After a voyage of more than five months, 
 this party, on the brig Thaddeus, reached Hawaii to find a warm wel- 
 come awaiting them. The missionaries were encouraged to a degree 
 which has seldom been equaled in any new field. They were provided 
 with all the necessities of life and all the facilities for the spread of 
 their work that were in command of the island king and people. Re- 
 inforcements of missionaries reached Honolulu year by year after the 
 city was definitely established as the seat of government. Whaling 
 vessels from the United States frequented the port and trade grew 
 rapidty. 
 
 The reign of the king ended in a peculiarly sad manner. In 1823, 
 with the queen and a party of chiefs, he embarked for a voyage to Eng- 
 land and the United States. They landed in Portsmouth after the long 
 voyage around Cape Horn and received great atten- 
 tion fr m the En S lish nobility, by whom they were 
 TO LONDON. feasted and flattered and taken to see all the sights 
 and shows of London. Soon after their arrival one 
 member of the party was attacked by the measles and soon all were 
 taken ill. On the 8th of July the queen died, and this sad event so 
 affected the spirits of the king that he sank rapidly and expired on the 
 morning of the 14th. 
 
 Lord Byron, the uncle of the poet, was commissioned to convey the 
 remains of the late king and queen and their attendants back to their 
 native land on the British frigate Blonde. A national council of chiefs 
 was held at Honolulu and the young prince Kauikeaouli was pro- 
 claimed king with the title of Kamehameha III. Lord B} r ron with his 
 corps of scientists made various surveys of the islands and erected a 
 monument to the memory of Captain Cook at the place where he was 
 killed many years before. 
 
 Encouraged by Lord Byron's advice, the chiefs now proceeded to 
 take more active measures for suppressing the vices which were de- 
 stroying their race. In the seaports of Honolulu and Lahaina this 
 policy immediately brought them into collision with a lawless and de- 
 praved set of foreigners. It is said to have been the motto of the buc-
 
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 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII. 641 
 
 caneers that "there was no God this side of Cape Horn." Here where 
 there were no laws, no press and no public opinion to restrain men, the 
 vices of civilized lands were added to those of the heathen and crime was 
 bpen and shameless. Accordingly, in no part of the world was there 
 ever more bitter hostility to reform. 
 
 As soon as laws began to be enacted to restrict the evils, a series 
 of disgraceful outrages were perfected to compel their repeal. Mr. 
 Charlton, the British consul, put himself at the head of this faction, and 
 from that time on persistently labored to embarrass 
 
 the native government and finally to overthrow its in- A CO * SUL 
 dependence. The crews of whaling vessels, led by ENCOURAGE VICE. 
 their officers, in more than one instance threatened 
 death to the missionaries and the supporters of decency if the laws 
 against vice were not repealed. Worst of all, a United States armed 
 schooner, the Dolphin, under the command of Lieutenant John Percival, 
 in 1826, by the threat of bombardment of Honolulu forced the support- 
 ers of decenc} T to jueld and remained in port two months, during which 
 time the little city was the scene of shocking disorder and immorality. 
 Lahaina was the scene of affairs quite as disgraceful, and it is a dark 
 spot in the history of civilization that the natives of Hawaii were forced 
 by European and American captains to permit the violation of their own 
 laws against disorder. 
 
 After a regency of several years, Kameliameha III. came to the 
 throne in 1833. That year marked the beginning of notable progress 
 in education and religion. A schoolhouse of brick was erected in 
 Honolulu, as well as a chapel, the frame of which was brought from 
 New London, Connecticut. A girls' boarding school was opened and 
 a manual labor school for boys was established in Hilo in 1837, where 
 it still exists. The remainder of the decade showed a rapid decrease 
 in the native population, a falling off of prosperity and various troubles 
 with foreign powers. The United States quarreled 
 with the Hawaiians on the matter of unsettled debts 
 and claims of American merchants. France resented AFFAIRS. 
 the expulsion of Catholic missionaries from the islands 
 and enforced their return and the repeal of the obnoxious edict by 
 the presence of powerful men-of-war. England was less involved in
 
 642 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII. 
 
 difficulties with the little island kingdom, although various contro- 
 versies had to be settled between the king and the consul by the pres- 
 ence of British men-of-war. 
 
 The years 1838-39 were memorable for the great religious revival, 
 which extended to all the islands and affected nearly all the people. 
 More than 5,000 were admitted to the Protestant churches in 1839 and 
 10,000 the next year. During the year 1839 the first draft of the consti- 
 tution was drawn up in the Hawaiian language by the council and a 
 declaration of rights was signed by the king and promulgated. This 
 may be considered as the Magna Charta of Hawaiian freedom. Educa- 
 tional affairs were flourishing. A family school for the education of 
 the young chiefs was founded in 1840, while the school established at 
 Punahou in 1842 by the American mission still exists as Oahu college. 
 The English language began to be taught in the schools. 
 
 The weakness of the Hawaiian islands in comparison to the great 
 powers was such that the kings had been compelled to yield to every 
 demand made by England, France and the United States. Unjust 
 claims had been paid and unjust treaties accepted. Finally, an em- 
 bassy to foreign powers was sent abroad in 1842 with most satisfactory 
 results. The embassy had several interviews with Daniel Webster, 
 then secretary of state of the United States, and from him they received 
 an official letter, December 19, 1842, which recognized the independence 
 of the Hawaiian kingdom. 
 
 While the Hawaiian commissioners were in Europe, negotiating 
 with England, France and Germany for similar recognition, events of 
 thrilling interest were taking place at the islands. In February, 1843, 
 the British frigate Carysfort, commanded by Lord George Paulet, ar- 
 rived at Honolulu and within two weeks had so exhausted the possi- 
 bilities of resistance by extravagant demands and a threat of bom- 
 bardment, in spite of the protests of other foreign representatives, that 
 on February 25 the king ceded the islands provision- 
 TO E ally t0 the British government, and the British flag 
 GREAT BRIT \ IN. Avas hoisted. Six months later, however, the British 
 flagship in the Pacific reached Honolulu with the 
 British admiral aboard. He apologized for the outrage that had been 
 perpetrated, and with impressive ceremonies the Hawaiian royal
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII. 043 
 
 standard was again hoisted and all the men-of-war in port saluted the 
 colors. 
 
 This succession of events proved the necessity of defining the 
 status of the Hawaiian kingdom. On the 20th of November, 1843, the 
 tw r o governments of France and England united in a joint declaration 
 to the effect that "Her Majesty, the Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, 
 and His Majesty, the King of the French, taking into consideration the 
 existence in the Sandwich islands of a government capable of providing 
 for the regularity of its relations with foreign nations, have thought it 
 right to engage reciprocally to consider the Sandwich islands as an 
 independent state and never to take possession, either directly or under 
 the title of a protectorate, or under any other form, of any part of the 
 territory of which they are composed." This was the final act by which 
 the Hawaiian kingdom was admitted within the pale of civilized 
 nations. 
 
 The Hawaiian ship of state might be regarded as safely launched 
 but much remained to be done in order to organize a civilized govern- 
 ment. The offices of secretary of state and attorney-general were cre- 
 ated, a minister of public instruction was appointed, and on May 20, 
 1845, the legislature was formally opened for the first time by the king 
 in person, with fitting ceremonies. The history of this reign would 
 be incomplete without a reference to the agitation in favor of annexa- 
 tion to the United States that went on during the years of 1853 and 
 1854. It was favored by the king as a refuge from impending dangers. 
 He was tired of demands made upon him by foreign powers and of 
 threats by filibusters from abroad and by conspirators at home to 
 overturn the government. The fearfully rapid de- 
 crease of the population, the rapid extinction of the p ROGRESSOF AN 
 
 order of chiefs, the relapse of the king into the ex- ^ION MOVEMENT. 
 
 cesses of his youth, and the perils overhanging the 
 feeble government, disheartened many true friends of the nation. It 
 was the belief in the island that a treaty of annexation would be 
 negotiated, when, in December, 1854, the king expired suddenly, to be 
 succeeded by his son under the title of Kaniehameha IV. 
 
 The reign of Kainehameha IV. began with bright hopes, but ended 
 in disappointment and sorrow. He ruled from 1855 to 1863, passing
 
 644 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII. 
 
 away at the age of twenty-nine. He was an educated, intelligent 
 young man, but his habits became dissipated, and about the middle 
 of his reign, while under the influence of liquor, he shot his private 
 secretary, who died from his wound after several months of suffering. 
 The king's first impulse was to abdicate the throne, but from this he 
 was dissuaded by his advisers. The king never recovered his cheer- 
 fulness of disposition after this tragedy. Three years later the baby 
 prince, on whom so many fond hopes were centered, passed away 
 and the king was a broken-hearted man during the remainder of 
 his life. 
 
 He was succeeded by his elder brother, who was proclaimed king 
 under the title of Kamehameha V. He it was who promulgated the 
 constitution of 1864, which continued in force for twenty-three years. 
 The dreadful disease of leprosy was first observed in the islands in 
 1853, and in 1864 it had begun to spread to an alarming extent. In 1865 
 the present leper settlement was established on the north side of 
 Molokai and segregation began. The king died suddenly in 1872, after 
 a reign of nine 3*ears. With him ended the line of the Kamehamehas. 
 Unfortunately, no successor had been appointed to the throne. 
 
 Chosen by the legislature, Prince Lunalilo became the next king 
 of the islands. This was a popular choice and a successful administra- 
 tion was in prospect, when the king died, after a reign of only one year. 
 As his successor the legislature elected Colonel David Kalaka.ua. His 
 reign brings the affairs of the island kingdom up to the point where 
 they have been most intimately woven with those of 
 RECIPROCITY tl United states. A few months after his inaugura- 
 
 TREATY WITH THE 
 
 UNITED STATES. ^ lon ne vlsl ^ e ^ the United States, as a guest of the 
 nation, and was heartily welcomed. Negotiations 
 were immediately opened for a treaty of commercial reciprocity with 
 the United States, which was ratified in June, 1875, and in spite of 
 strenuous opposition in both countries, the laws necessary to carry it 
 into operation were enacted in September, 1876. The conclusion of this 
 treaty was the great event of the reign, and perhaps the most im- 
 portant incident in Hawaiian history since 1843. 
 
 After a reign of sixteen years, in order to recruit his failing health, 
 the king visited California in the United States cruiser Charleston as
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF HAWAII. 645 
 
 the guest of Ilear-Admiral Brown. In spite of the best medical at- 
 tendance he sank rapidly after his arrival, and on the 20th of January, 
 1891, he breathed his last at the Palace Hotel, San 
 
 Francisco. His remains were removed to the Charles- SU1 DEN DEAT1 
 
 OF KIXG KALAKAUA 
 
 ton, with imposing funeral ceremonies, and arrived at 1N SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Honolulu January 29, where the decorations for his 
 welcome were suddenly changed into those of mourning. On the same 
 day his sister, the regent, took the oath to maintain the constitution, 
 and was proclaimed queen under the title of Liliuokalani. 
 
 When the queen assumed the throne, a condition existed which 
 had been frequent in Hawaiian history. She was childless, so that 
 there was no direct heir to the crown. It has been a grief to the 
 Hawaiians and a fact which in part explains the rapid change of con- 
 ditions in the islands, that for many years the native population has 
 been decreasing rapidly. This decrease has been notably rapid in the 
 ranks of the chiefs, so that more than once the choice of a sovereign has 
 been embarrassed on that account. 
 
 It was necessary to name an heir-apparent for Queen Liliuokalani 
 outside the line of natural inheritance. Princess Kaiulani was thus 
 proclaimed. She was the daughter of Hon. Archibald Cleghorn, the 
 Governor of the island of Oahu, and Princess Likelike. The child of 
 this English gentleman and Hawaiian princess was a beautiful, in- 
 telligent and educated girl, in whom man} 7 hopes for a revival of the 
 best in island monarchy were now centered.
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 
 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 
 
 Changing Conditions in the Last Eight Years Eccentricities of King Kalakaua 
 Accession of Queen Liliuokalani The Queen Deposed by Reform Element 
 President Cleveland's Effort to Restore the Monarchy to Hawaii Commis- 
 sioner Blount's Errand The Former Queen Wants Revenge Establishment 
 of the Republic An Insurrection Against the Government Hawaii Annexed 
 by the United States When the Hawaiian Flag Was Lowered Hoisting of 
 the Stars and Stripes Commissioners to Formulate a Government for Hawaii 
 Military Force in Honolulu, Creates Friction Peace and Prosperity for the 
 Islands. 
 
 WITHIN less than eight years the Hawaiian islands ran a re- 
 markable gamut of government. In that time were included 
 the reign of Queen Liliuokalani, the overthrow of the mon- 
 archy, the establishment of the provisional government, the hoisting 
 of the American flag as a preliminary to annexation, the hauling down 
 of that flag, at the command of an American president, the establish- 
 ment of the Hawaiian republic, the revolution by the monarchists, the 
 return of peace and prosperity, and finally the permanent annexation 
 of the group to the United States of America. 
 
 In order to understand clearly the conditions which led up to the 
 overthrow of the monarchy, it is necessary to revert to the reign of 
 King Kalakaua. Unlike his predecessors, Kalakaua seemed to regard 
 himself as merely a king of the native Hawaiians, and foreign resi- 
 dents as alien invaders. It also seemed to be his chief aim to change 
 the system of government into a personal despotism, in which he 
 should have unchecked control of the government treasury. The legis- 
 latures were packed with subservient office-holders, while every artifice 
 was used to debauch the native voters and foment race prejudice. 
 The national debt grew from $389,000, in 1880, to $1,936,000, in 1887. 
 After the legislative session of 1886, the king was virtually his own 
 
 646
 
 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 647 
 
 prime minister and went from one folly to another, until his acceptance 
 of two bribes, one of $75,000 and another of $80,000, 
 
 for the exclusive right to conduct the opium traffic, BRIBERY OF 
 
 . * THE HAWAIIAN 
 
 selling the same privilege simultaneously to two rival KING 
 
 bidders, precipitated the revolution of 1887. 
 
 Overawed by the unanimity of the movement and deserted by his 
 followers, the king yielded without a struggle. The constitution which 
 he was pleased to sign on the 7th of July, 1887, w r as a revision of that 
 of 1864, intended to put an end to mere personal government, and to 
 make the executive responsible to the representatives of the people. 
 In 1889 an insurrection headed by R. W. Wilcox was directed against 
 these reforms, and was promptly put down after seven of the rioters 
 were killed and a large number wounded. It is an accepted fact that 
 the king and his sister, who succeeded him, were accessory to this out- 
 break. 
 
 The former queen, in a published statement, has since declared that 
 she took the oath to maintain the constitution unwillingly. The history 
 of her short reign shows that it was her unaltered purpose to restore 
 autocratic government. In short, she was determined to govern as 
 well as to reign. The legislative session of 1892 was protracted to 
 eight months, chiefly by her determination to retain her control of the 
 executive, as well as to carry through the opium and lottery bills. 
 Meanwhile she had caused a constitution to be drawn up which would 
 practically have transformed the government from a limited to an 
 absolute monarchy, besides disfranchising a class of citizens who paid 
 two-thirds of the taxes. This constitution she undertook to spring upon 
 the country by a coup d'etat, on the day of the pro- 
 rogation of the legislature, January 14, 1893. Fortu- 
 nately at the critical moment, when hei preparations ABSOLUTE POWER. 
 were complete, her cabinet ministers shrank from 
 sharing the responsibility of such a revolutionary act, and induced her 
 to postpone it. In such an undertaking, to hesitate is fatal. 
 
 Again there was a general uprising of the conservative part of the 
 community similar to that of 1887. But this time public opinion con- 
 demned all half-way measures, and declared the monarchy to be for- 
 feited by its own act. The reform leaders organized their forces and
 
 648 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 
 
 formed a provisional government, which was proclaimed January 17, 
 from the government building. The United States man-of-war Boston, 
 which had unexpectedly arrived from Hilo a few days before, landed a 
 force to protect the lives and property of American citizens in case of 
 disorder. The queen's ministers availed themselves of the presence of 
 these troops on shore as an excuse for their inaction, and persuaded 
 the queen to resign under protest, and to appeal to the government of 
 the United States. A treaty of annexation was soon after negotiated 
 with the United States during President Harrison's administration, and 
 was before the senate for confirmation when the administration of 
 President Cleveland began. 
 
 Even before President Cleveland's inauguration, it became apparent 
 that his mind was deeply impressed with the belief that the late revo- 
 lution was the result of a deeply laid conspiracy, aided and abetted by 
 the United States minister to Hawaii and Captain Wiltse of the Boston. 
 The representatives of the proposed queen and those 
 
 of Princess Kaiulani, the heir apparent, were able to 
 SUSPECTS . . . 
 
 CONSPIRACY strengthen him in this conviction, and a few days 
 
 after his inauguration he withdrew from the consider- 
 ation of the senate the treaty negotiated with Hawaii. At once he 
 delegated the Hon. Janies II. Blount of Macon, Georgia, to go to the 
 Hawaiian islands and make thorough investigation of all the affairs 
 which led up to the situation then in effect. 
 
 Two days after Mr. Blount reached Honolulu, in harmony with in- 
 structions which he had received before leaving Washington, he di- 
 rected Rear-Admiral Skerrett to haul down the American flag from 
 the government building and to embark the marines on the ships to 
 which they belonged. He had been given paramount authority by the 
 President over the naval officers on that station and over the American 
 minister to Hawaii. 
 
 Commissioner Blount's inquiry in Honolulu was by no means of a 
 sort to establish it in the confidence of unprejudiced observers. He 
 showed a disposition to encourage testimony of the sort he wanted and 
 discourage the offering of any other. His report, as might be expected, 
 instead of being the dispassionate summing up of an impartial arbi- 
 trator, was a piece of special pleading supported by a mass of purely
 
 PLANTING A RICE FIELD IN HAWAII. 
 
 Sugar is considered the principal production in Hawaii, but rice is also 
 cultivated quite extensively and with great success. 
 
 A PINE-APPLE RANCH NEAR HONOLULU 
 
 Tropical fruits of all kinds grow in abundance. The finest pine-apples in the world 
 grow here and are a source of profit to those who cultivate them.
 
 NATIVES OF HAWAII MAKING "POI" 
 
 Poi the national dish, is made from the root of the taro. The root is baked and 
 
 beaten on a board with a stone pestle. It is next made into paste by 
 
 adding water, then allowed to ferment, after which it is eaten.
 
 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 649 
 
 ex parte evidence. It was filled with extraordinary perversions of his- 
 tory and fact, as well as bitter hostility to the party of civilization and 
 progress in the islands. 
 
 Accepting Commissioner Blount's inquiries and report as definitive, 
 President Cleveland made an earnest effort to arrange for the restora- 
 tion of the monarchy in Hawaii and the overthrow of the republic. 
 He was compelled to abandon his purpose, when the former queen 
 refused to accept the crown and resume the throne at the price of a 
 stipulation and promise to President Cleveland, that the officers of 
 the provisional republic and the leaders of the revo- 
 lution would not be punished. She declared to the FOR ^ER QUEEN 
 
 PROVES TO BE 
 American minister, Mr. v\ ilhs, who was conducting BLOODTHIRSTY. 
 
 the negotiations for Mr. Cleveland, that she would not 
 concede amnesty to her opponents, reserving the right to behead them 
 and confiscate their property. Unwilling to replace in power a monarch 
 whose first act would be so bloodthirsty, President Cleveland was com- 
 pelled to cease his peculiar efforts and the Hawaiian people were left 
 to work out their own destiny for a few r years more. 
 
 It is true that Liliuokalani finally accepted with an ill grace the 
 President's condition, but it was done in such a manner that no con- 
 fidence was placed in her promise. Consequently the only formal and 
 public move made was a written demand upon the provisional govern- 
 ment of the islands by the United States minister that the queen should 
 be restored to her authority and the provisional government re- 
 linquished. This demand was as formally refused in a letter signed 
 by Mr. Dole, the minister of foreign affairs, and the incident was de- 
 clared closed. It is quite certain that if any sort of an effort had been 
 made to reinstate her by force the result would have been bloodshed 
 and revolution in the islands. 
 
 When it became evident that there was no hope of annexation dur- 
 ing the administration of President Cleveland, the people of the islands 
 began to look toward the formation of a more permanent government 
 than the provisional one which had served its purpose well, but was 
 inadequate for expansion and progress. A constitutional convention 
 consequently was called, which held session from May 20 to July 3, 
 1894, and on July 4 the constitution was proclaimed. The new govern-
 
 650 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 
 
 ment was called the Republic of Hawaii and Sanford B. Dole became 
 the first president of the republic, as he had been the head of the pro- 
 visional government. 
 
 ANOTHER NATION The un f r i end i y attitude of the American adminis- 
 
 JULY FOURTH, tration toward the republic gave the adherents of the 
 former queen, who sought to re-establish the mon- 
 archy in the islands, renewed assurance that theirs might be a win- 
 ning cause, and conspiracies began to multiply. Finally, on the after- 
 noon of Sunday, January 6 ; 1895, the marshal received positive in- 
 formation that a quantity of arms were stored and natives were gather- 
 ing about five miles from the city. A x party of officers and volun- 
 teers went to search the house and w r ere attacked. Charles Carter, 
 one of the leading young men of the islands, and a graduate of the 
 University of Michigan, was fatally wounded. The firing became gen- 
 eral and after a sharp skirmish the conspirators were routed, their loss 
 being unknown. Carter died early the next morning and martial law 
 was at once declared by the president. There were a few skirmishes 
 during the next few days, but no more fatalities occurred. Finally the 
 leaders of the insurrection surrendered or were captured and the hos- 
 tilities were over. 
 
 It was definitely proven that the plan of attack contemplated gen- 
 eral destruction by dynamite bombs and incendiarism and that the 
 former queen was a co-conspirator. She and many others were arrested, 
 tried and convicted. During its session of sixty-three days 191 prisoners 
 were brought before the trial commission. Seven were acquitted and 
 sentence was suspended in the cases of sixty-four others. The sentences 
 inflicted on the leaders ranged from thirty-five years' imprisonment at 
 hard labor, with a fine of $10,000, down to one year's imprisonment, 
 with a $1,000 fine. Five death sentences were passed, 
 but were commuted by the president. The former 
 INSURRECTIONISTS. <l ueen was sentenced to five years' imprisonment, with 
 $5,000 fine. Ultimately many of these were released 
 from prison upon signing agreements to leave the country. All but 
 seven of these were granted leave to return within one year. Within 
 six months after the outbreak of the rebellion a large number of the 
 rank and file 'of those convicted were granted conditional pardons and
 
 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 651 
 
 the sentences of the leaders reduced to half their terms of imprisonment. 
 
 On the first day of January, 1896, the pardons and releases were 
 extended to include every prisoner, even the leaders were permitted 
 to go and come at their pleasure within the country, and the former 
 queen herself was no longer held under espionage. Since that time she 
 has lived alternately in Washington and Honolulu, hoping against hope 
 that something will be done to improve her station and her wealth. 
 She is a woman of considerable private means, with ample resources 
 outside her own fortune in the wealth of her strongest supporters, in- 
 cluding Claus Spreckels, the sugar magnate. The crown lands of Ha- 
 waii of course reverted to the republic as government lands after the 
 change of administration. 
 
 On June 15, by a vote of 209 to 91, the house of representatives 
 adopted the Newlands resolution providing for the annexation of Ha- 
 waii. The debate which was ended by this action was one of the most 
 notable of the session of congress, arousing keen interest throughout 
 the country. It was looked upon as a radical departure from the long- 
 established policy of the country, and the first step of a pronounced 
 policy of colonization. 
 
 The senate passed the same resolutions by a vote of 42 to 21 and 
 President McKinley signed the bill without delay. 
 
 The resolutions related the offer of the Hawaiian republic to cede 
 all of its sovereignty and absolute title to the government and crown 
 land, and then accepted the cession and declared the 
 
 islands annexed. The resolutions provided for a com- 
 
 TERMS OF 
 
 mission of five, at least two of whom were to be resi- ANNEXATION. 
 dent Hawaiians, to recommend to congress such legis- 
 lation as they might deem advisable. The public debt of Hawaii, not 
 to exceed 14,000,000, was assumed, Chinese immigration was prohibited, 
 all treaties between other powers and Hawaii w r ere declared null, and 
 it was provided that until congress should provide for the govern- 
 ment of the islands, all civil, judicial and military powers exercised by 
 the officers of the Hawaiian republic should be exercised in such man- 
 ner as the president might direct, he being given power to appoint 
 persons to put in effect a provisional government for the islands. 
 
 Judged in comparison with demonstrations on other occasions, the
 
 652 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 
 
 news of annexation was received coldly and with little manifestation 
 of joy in Honolulu. For months past, steamer after steamer had arrived, 
 bringing word only that hope, was deferred, that no action had been 
 taken by congress on annexation, or that the treaty might be taken up 
 "next week," until the expression "the next steamer" became a by-word 
 with which to taunt the sanguine and hopeful annexationists. The 
 British steamer Coptic proved to be the one to bring the news. She 
 reached the dock of Honolulu on the afternoon of July 13, with a flag 
 floating from every masthead and the rigging dressed with pennants 
 and streamers. There were a few incipient parades, some singing of 
 patriotic airs on the wharf, some speeches from the steps of the gov- 
 ernment building, and a few firecrackers and bonfires at night, but no 
 general celebration. There was, however, a well-grounded feeling of 
 satisfaction that the doubtful status of the island republic was ended. 
 
 It was on August 12 that the Hawaiian ensign was hauled down 
 for the last time and the little mid-Pacific nation ceased to exist. It was 
 a solemn rather than a festive ceremony, which 
 HAULING DOWN marked tne final transfer of the sovereignty over the 
 HAWAIIAN FLAG. Hawaiian islands. There were more tears than cheers. 
 The Hawaiian flag with its eight stripes, alternate 
 white, red and blue, with the crosses of St. George and St. Andrew in 
 the corner, had been the flag of an independent nation since early in 
 the century. Many who saw it hauled down for the last time were born 
 under it and had lived under it all their lives. Associations rich and 
 dear clustered around it. And though they had given their votes and 
 their influence, many of them the best efforts of their political life, in 
 order that it might be superseded by the Stars and Stripes, when it 
 actually came to the supreme moment of change they could not. sup- 
 press a tear and were in no mood for a vociferous salutation of the new 
 emblem. 
 
 As early as 9 o'clock, crowds began to gather about the grounds of 
 the executive building, where the flag-raising ceremonies were to be 
 held. The crowds were principally made up of the poorer classes of 
 Hawaiians, a good many Portuguese, and generally the merely idle, 
 curious elements of the population. 
 
 Few of those who gathered thus early went inside the grounds.
 
 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 653 
 
 though the gates were open. The Hawaiians went about with an air of 
 awed timidity, shame-faced almost at being there, though unable to 
 resist the influence and attraction of a public ceremonial, even when 
 they knew that according to the feelings and sentiments the race was 
 expected to hold, and the larger part of them did hold, they ought not 
 to be there at all. 
 
 At the barracks of the national guard there was a bustle of prep- 
 aration. Uniforms and accouterments were being burnished up, though 
 in this there was a good deal of the preparation for a 
 funeral, for it was the last day of the existence of the PREPAR ^TIONS 
 
 J FOR THE 
 
 organization as the national guard of Hawaii. The CEREMONY. 
 guardsmen were under arms and in rank soon after 
 10 o'clock, and by 11 they were marching down to the boat landing, a 
 quarter of a mile away, to meet the American marines and sailors from 
 the United States ships Philadelphia and Mohican. 
 
 A detail of police, nearly all of them native Hawaiians, led the 
 march. Immediately following them was the government band, the 
 successor under the republic of the royal Hawaiian band and under the 
 same leader, Captain Berger. Both staff and field officers w r ere un- 
 mounted. The troops from the warships w T ere already ashore when 
 the national guard reached the landing, and the return formation was 
 quickly organized. As before, the police led, the band followed, then 
 came the national guard and then the marines and sailors under their 
 line officers, accompanied by the band of the Philadelphia, two field 
 pieces bringing up the rear. The line of march was up Fort and King 
 streets, the two principal streets of the city, and into the executive 
 grounds through the main entrance. 
 
 The platform on which the ceremonies were to take place had been 
 built directly at the foot of the steps leading into the executive build- 
 ing, the old lolani palace of King Kalakaua. It was decorated with 
 flags and bunting, principally in the American colors, though the 
 Hawaiian flag had not yet been taken down. From the main tower of 
 the building floated the Hawaiian ensign. 
 
 The American troops were drawn up iu company front formation,, 
 facing the building and the platform, and extending clear across the 
 broad royal palm-lined avenue. The two battalions of the national
 
 654 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 
 
 guard in battalion front were to the right and left on the circling avenue 
 
 which surrounded the building. Back of the national guard was the 
 
 citizens' guard, the body which, in the stormier days 
 
 ri^^^i^ia of tlie provisional government, included every white 
 
 HA YYAIIAN J.ROOPS 
 
 PARTICIPATE. man m tke islands capable of bearing arms, no matter 
 what his age or social or financial position. In King 
 street, forming a cordon around the main entrance to the grounds, were 
 the mounted reserves, a branch of the citizens' guard, but uniformed and 
 mounted. Back of the citizens' guard were the general public. There 
 were not many native Hawaiians in the crowd. The sentiment was 
 strong among them that they ought not to be there. 
 
 The royalists, of course, remained away as a matter of principle, 
 but even those who had been annexationists or of no political affiliations 
 shared the race feeling that somehow 'it was not a ceremony which it 
 was fitting for them to attend. Of the five native members of the legis- 
 lature only one the speaker of the house was on the platform re- 
 served for members of that body. 
 
 In front of the troops and between them and the executive build- 
 ing and on either side of the main platform were seats reserved for 
 more prominent citizens and the guests of the occasion. These seats 
 were not filled, for many who had expected to be present were either 
 deterred by the threatening sky or by a feeling at the last moment that 
 after all they did not want to see the flag come down. 
 
 The ceremony was timed for 12 o'clock noon. Shortly before that 
 hour President Dole, attended by his cabinet and Chief Justice Judd, 
 came from the executive building and took their places on the platform. 
 They were followed at once by Minister Sewall and Admiral Miller and 
 his staff and the principal officers from the Mohican. Members of the 
 legislature and the diplomatic and consular corps were already in their 
 places. The hour for the ceremony had arrived. 
 
 There was perfect quiet throughout the grounds. 
 :MAL It seemed like a solemn hush. So solemnly quiet was 
 
 TRANSFER OF . . 
 
 ALLEGIANCE. ^ ^ e c 'l lc 'k of cameras, of which there Were ap- 
 parently hundreds in the gathering, seemed a dis- 
 turbance. The Rev. G. L. Pearson, chaplain of the Hawaiian senate, of- 
 fered prayer. The transfer of sovereignty was about to be made. Pre-
 
 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. C55 
 
 senting President Dole with a certified copy of the Newlands resolution, 
 Minister Sewall announced that the United States formally consented 
 to the political union of the two countries. The president, in brief, con- 
 cise and formal language, "with full confidence in the honor, justice 
 and friendship of the American people," yielded up on behalf of the 
 Hawaiian body politic the sovereignty and property of the republic of 
 Hawaii. In behalf of the United States and in equally brief, concise 
 and formal terms this sovereignty was accepted by Minister Sewall. 
 
 So far as words were effective Hawaii as an independent nation 
 was at an end. It had ceased to exist. Its flag still floated, but it floated 
 merely to receive mortuary honors. In mournful succession the field 
 pieces of the national guard volleyed forth the twenty-one guns to which 
 even a dying flag is entitled. From the guns of the Philadelphia in the 
 harbor half a mile away the echoing cadence came back. It w r as the 
 last salute to the emblem of Hawaiian sovereignty. 
 
 When the sound of the last gun died away the Hawaiian band be- 
 gan "Hawaii Ponoi," the Hawaiian national anthem. But there were 
 tears in the bandmaster's eyes. There were quavers in the notes of 
 the familiar air which the composer never put there, and it was but a 
 remnant of the band which went through what was to every one of 
 them an ordeal. Of the twenty-six members, fifteen are native Ha- 
 waiians, and these at their own earnest request were excused from play- 
 ing for the last time their country's national hymn. 
 
 The supreme moment had come. The flag was to be lowered. The 
 bugle sounded retreat, and to an accompaniment of tears and emotions 
 sought to be stifled, but plainly evident, the pretty ensign, emblematic 
 in its design of the friendship to the Hawaiian people of the two great- 
 est nations on earth, came down. 
 
 There was a moment's pause. Then from the ranks of the Amer- 
 ican marines came a loud and resonant bugle call, "Advance!" and to 
 the stirring melody of "The Star-Spangled Banner" 
 the American flag rose to the staff from which the 
 Hawaiian had just come down. Simultaneous!}' AX]) STRIPES. 
 smaller American flags were hoisted on the smaller 
 towers of the executive building and on the flagstaff of the judiciary 
 building, in front of which stands the heroic statue of Kamehameha 
 the Great, the first who gave a flag to Hawaii.
 
 656 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 
 
 As the flags reached their position the cannon volleyed forth again, 
 this time in salute of the flag which should never come down; and the 
 sun, which all morning had been hidden, beamed out bright and clear 
 on the scene. There was an attempt to cheer the American flag as it 
 went up, but the emotions aroused when the Hawaiian flag came down 
 were too recent to permit anything like enthusiasm, and the cheers 
 lacked both depth and volume. 
 
 The transfer of sovereignty was complete. The flag of a gentle, 
 hospitable and generous but dark-skinned people had been given away 
 by aliens in blood to aliens in blood. In all, the ceremony was im- 
 pressive by its very simplicity. There was not one active participant 
 who had in his veins a single drop of blood of that people who gave their 
 name to the flag that was obliterated or the sovereignty of which was 
 surrendered. 
 
 While this ceremony was going on Queen Liliuokalani sat disconso- 
 late and alone in her home only a short distance away. She would see 
 no one except two very old friends who had come from one of the other 
 islands. All day and the next she remained immured at her home, re- 
 ceiving no one but the queen dowager, Kapiolani. And the pretty, 
 dark-skinned young woman who even in the bitter da} T s of the pro- 
 visional government was recognized by her title of Princess Kaiulani, 
 was weeping her eyes out alone at her Waikiki residence. She had had 
 such dreams of sovereignty, of the time when she would be queen over 
 her gentle people, and have a court in fact, as she has in name. But 
 the ceremony going on at the executive building she knew meant that 
 those dreams were gone forever, and she remained alone with her 
 despair. 
 
 The salute to the Stars and Stripes completed the transfer of 
 
 sovereignty, but was not the end of the ceremony. With the transfer 
 
 a land and people were left without a civil govern- 
 
 KEW AUTHORITY ment The repub i ic of n awa ii having ceased to exist, 
 
 OLD OFFICERS. ^he omc 'i a l s f the republic were without authority. 
 
 From the new sovereignty came the re-establishment 
 
 of government. The proclamation authorized by President McKinley 
 
 and read at once by Minister Sewall was the warrant and charter of the 
 
 new government. It provided that the government should be admin-
 
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 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 661 
 
 istered by those who had administered it under the republic, and that 
 the municipal law of the old regime should continue in force under the 
 new. 
 
 The officials of the new government having thus been pointed out, 
 the chief justice of the republic, now the chief justice of the territory of 
 Hawaii, proceeded to administer the oath of allegiance to these newest 
 sons of the American union President Dole and his cabinet. When 
 this was done Minister Sewall made a brief address to his "fellow- 
 citizens," an address fitting in thought and expression to the occasion. 
 
 The national guard of Hawaii, with its flag furled, marched out 
 through the main entrance to the parade grounds and formed into the 
 three sides of a hollow square. The American troops marched by an- 
 other way and formed as the fourth side of the square. Standing in 
 the center of this square Colonel Fisker, the commandant, took the oath 
 of allegiance and administered it to his field and staff officers. The men 
 were sw^orn in by companies, and then President Dole presented the 
 regiment with the flag that had been the flag of Camp Boston in the 
 revolutionary days of 1893. With this at their head the regiment, now 
 of the volunteer forces of the United States, escorted the marines and 
 sailors to the boat landing. 
 
 President McKinley appointed as commissioners to visit the Ha- 
 waiian islands, under the terms of the resolution of annexation, Sen- 
 ator Shelby M. Cullom of Illinois, Senator John T. 
 
 Morgan of Alabama, Representative Robert R. Hitt COMMISSIONERS 
 
 OLTLINE FORM 
 of Illinois, President Sanford B. Dole of Hawaii, and OF GOVERNMENT. 
 
 Justice W. F. Frear of the Hawaiian Supreme court. 
 This commission visited the islands in August and made a careful ex- 
 amination of the industrial, political and social conditions. They visited 
 the larger islands of the group and were shown all the sights of .greatest 
 interest to travelers. During their sessions the commission listened to 
 people of every class and nationality interested in the organization of 
 the island government and formulated plans with the fullest knowledge 
 possible. 
 
 The bill formulated and presented for the consideration of con- 
 gress provided for the erection of the islands into a territory of the 
 United States, to be styled the territory of Hawaii. The necessary
 
 662 UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG. 
 
 territorial offices were named and other details for preliminary organ- 
 ization outlined. Provision was made for a legislature to consist of two 
 houses. In its effect the bill created a government as truly home rule 
 as Hawaii had had before, so that the people were given no cause to 
 feel that the transfer of their allegiance would in any way alter the 
 extent of their freedom. 
 
 The only difficulty that rose from the annexation of the islands 
 came in connection with the quartering of a large body of United States 
 troops in Honolulu. The military authorities and the civil authorities 
 soon came into controversy. The selection of troops for the Hawaiian 
 service w r as an unfortunate one in many ways and irri- 
 AMERICAN SOL- tation between the townspeople and the strangers was 
 
 DIERS CREATE , 
 
 FRICTION, intense. The people of Hawaii resented the quarter- 
 ing of a large force there as soon as it became evident 
 that the officers of the command were not of the sort to maintain dis- 
 cipline or friendly relations. The American military hospital authori- 
 ties refused to co-operate with the local health authorities of Honolulu, 
 with the result that the camps selected were soon crowded with sick 
 and the ranks of the First New York regiment, the worst affected, were 
 almost depleted. 
 
 After peace was declared between the United States and Spain 
 troops were gradually withdrawn from Honolulu, and as the number 
 was reduced conditions in the islands improved and a new era of peace, 
 prosperity and stability settled down upon "the Paradise of the Pacific."
 
 CHAPTER XLVI. 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 How Conditions of Climate, Geography and Eace Have Affected the Development 
 of the Archipelago Discovery by Captain Cook The Eight Inhabited Islands 
 The Greatest Volcanoes of the World Delightful Climate of the Hawaiian 
 Group Volcanic Islands as Contrasted with Those of Coral Formation Fer- 
 tile Valleys and Lava Barrens Fauna and Flora of the Islands Origin of 
 the Hawaiian People Aboriginal Settlers and Their Migrations among the 
 Islands of the Pacific Hawaii in the Olden Time Noble Work of the Mis- 
 sionaries Education in the Islands Hilo Besources of Agriculture Climate 
 Commerce of the Hawaiian Islands. 
 
 IN an island group like that of Hawaii, history has been so affected 
 by the conditions of geography, climate and kindred influences, that 
 it seems worth while to take a rapid glance at these phases of island 
 affairs in connection with the progress of settlement and civilization. 
 The name of Captain Cook is as closely identified with ITawaii as with 
 most of the other adjacent islands in the Pacific ocean, and it is to him 
 that the credit of modern discovery belongs. By him the name Sand- 
 wich islands was given to the country, in honor of his patron, the Earl 
 of Sandwich, who was then first lord of the British admiralty. But 
 the name Hawaiian islands, derived from that of the largest island of 
 the group, is the official name used by the people who 
 
 have a right to regulate their own nomenclature. . n 
 
 i AMOL s 
 
 This name, now accepted by almost all geographers, VOYAGE. 
 
 is the only one correctly applied to this land. The 
 eight inhabited islands, which are Hawaii, Maui, Kahoolawe, Lanai, 
 Molokai, Oahu, Kauai and Niihau, comprise an area of about 6,700 
 square miles, of which the largest island, Hawaii, includes nearly two- 
 thirds. This island is about equal in area to the state of Connecticut, 
 while the whole group is about equal to that of Connecticut and Long 
 Island. The eight inhabited islands extend from northwest to south- 
 
 663
 
 064 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 east over a distance of about 380 miles. As a result of this scattering 
 area and population, the people have developed the highest skill in 
 navigation. 
 
 Few countries comprise a greater variety of surface and of climate. 
 Hawaii contains the highest mountains of any island in the world. 
 In Europe, only a few peaks of the Alps are as high as Mauna Loa and 
 Mauna Kea, while Haleakala is about equal to Mt. Aetna in extent and 
 elevation. The two largest active volcanoes in the world, Kilauea and 
 Mauna Loa, are found in Hawaii, while Maui contains a vast extinct 
 crater of Haleakala and the other islands abound in sublime and beau- 
 tiful scenery. 
 
 The climate of the islands is much cooler than that of other coun- 
 tries in the same latitude. This is due, not only to the trade winds 
 which blow over a wide extent of ocean, but also to the fact that the 
 ocean itself is cooled by the return current from the region of Behring 
 strait. It is said that the seas surrounding these islands are cooler 
 by ten degrees than those of any other region in the same latitude. 
 The islands are exempt from the destructive cyclones which often pre- 
 vail in the central part of the Pacific ocean. Contrast 
 CLIMATE AND in c ]j mate between the windward and the leeward 
 
 SEASO> J> 
 
 OF HAWAII. sides of each island is very striking, the eastern slopes 
 being windy and rainy and heavily wooded, while the 
 western coast enjoys a warm, dry climate with a more scanty vegeta- 
 tion. The windward side of each island has been cut by the streams 
 into numerous deep and precipitous ravines. By ascending the moun- 
 tains, any desirable degree of temperature can be attained, while on 
 the highest summits snow remains during most of the year. 
 
 How favorable the conditions of life are in the Hawaiian islands 
 compared with the coral islands of the Pacific ocean, is well shown by 
 Professor Dana, who spoke in reference to the Gilbert islands as fol- 
 lows: 
 
 "How many of the various arts of civilized life could exist in a 
 land where shells are the only cutting instruments; the plants in all 
 but twenty-nine in number; but a single mineral; fresh water barely 
 enough for household purposes; no streams or mountains or hills? 
 How much of 1he poetry or literature of Europe would be intelligible
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 005 
 
 to persons whose ideas had expanded only to the limits of a coral island; 
 who had never conceived of a surface of laud above half a mile iu 
 breadth, of a slope higher than a beach, of a change of seasons beyond 
 a variation in the prevalence of the rains?" 
 
 The soil of these islands iu general is poor, with the exception 
 perhaps of Kauai, and nature yields but little spontaneously. The val- 
 leys indeed are fertile and productive but they are of limited extent. 
 Some of the dry plains, however, can be made fertile by irrigation. In 
 the islands of llawaii and Maui, extensive tracts are 
 covered with rugged lava. Much labor and skill are 
 necessary in order to produce good crops, a fact which VOLCANOES. 
 tends to render the inhabitants more industrious and 
 hardy than those of some other tropical groups. As there were 110 
 metals, the inhabitants were obliged to use the best substitute they 
 could find. 
 
 The only quadrupeds existing upon the islands before their dis- 
 covery by Captain Cook, were dogs, swine and mice, which were prob- 
 ably introduced by the first settlers. These, as well as the domestic 
 fowls, were of the same breeds as are found throughout Polynesia. 
 The sea abounds iu fish, for which extensive artificial ponds along the 
 coast have been constructed, evidently at the cost of prodigious labor. 
 The principal food plants were the taro, which was the Hawaiian "staff 
 of life," the sweet potato and the yam. The only fruit trees in ancient 
 times were the bread fruit, cocoanut, banana and ohia, which is the 
 same as the jambo which is found in profusion in the Philippine islands. 
 Then there were the wild strawberry, Cape gooseberry and raspberry. 
 Many other kinds of fruit have since been introduced. Sugar cane was 
 indigenous and grew luxuriantly. Various forest trees supplied abund- 
 ance of timber for useful and ornamental purposes. 
 
 The question of the origin of the Hawaiian race is one which has 
 not been fully solved. The affinities not only of the people, but also of 
 the plants and animals, are with the islands to the Mouth aud southwest. 
 The inhabitants of all the groups of islands in the eastern Pacific from 
 Hawaii to New Zealand may be considered as belonging to the Poly- 
 nesian race, for they all speak dialects of the same language, have the 
 same physical features, the same manners and customs, the same gen-
 
 066 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 eral system of tabus, and similar traditions and religious rites. Again, 
 it has been proven that the Polynesian language is but one member of 
 a widespread family of languages, including those spoken in Micronesia, 
 the Philippine islands, the Slalay archipelago and Madagascar. 
 
 As regards the Pacific ocean, it is pretty well settled that the island 
 of Savaii in the Samoan group was the chief center of dispersion for 
 the Polynesian race, to which all their traditions 
 
 ^ \ MII \ 
 
 point. It is nearly certain that there were two dis- 
 CENTER OF 
 
 DISTRIBUTION. t ^ nct periods of immigration into these islands. The 
 first settlers are believed to have reached the islands 
 as early as the year 500. These pioneers may have been either ex- 
 pelled from other islands in war or driven out of their course by 
 storms. After the Hawaiian people had lived secluded from the rest 
 of the world for many generations, intercourse between them and the 
 islands in the south Pacific seems to have been renewed, and many 
 voyages to have been made, which have been celebrated in song and 
 story. There seems to have been a general movement throughout 
 Polynesia during the eleventh and twelfth centuries. 
 
 The tabu system, which is characteristic of the Polynesian race, was 
 perhaps most fully developed in the Hawaiian islands. It was a com- 
 plicated system which covered the entire daily life of the people, with 
 a vast network of regulations and penalties. These were not merely 
 laws, but religious ordinances, and the violation of them was not merely 
 a crime, but a sin which would bring down the vengeance of the gods. 
 The most oppressive of these regulations were those relating to the 
 sexes. It was tabu for men and women to eat together, or even to 
 have their food cooked in the same oven. Several kinds of food were 
 forbidden to the women on pain of death. There were occasions when 
 no canoe could be launched, no fire lighted, and no sound could be 
 
 uttered on pain of death. 
 ANCIENT SOCIETY In anc j ent times, the Hawaiian people were di- 
 
 RELIGION. vided into three classes. These were the nobility, 
 
 comprising the kings and chiefs of various grades of 
 
 rank; the priests, including sorcerers and doctors, and the common 
 
 people, or laboring classes. The gap between the ranks was very 
 
 wide, and the oppression of the common people great.
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 6<>7 
 
 The ancient Hawaiians bad innumerable objects of worship. To 
 them the earth, the air and the sea were filled with invisible beings. 
 The volcano, the thunder, the whirlwind, the meteor, the shark, and 
 disease were each either the work or the actual embodiment of a ma- 
 licious spirit. It is remarkable, however, that no worship was paid to 
 the sun, moon or stars. There were many gods of varying degrees of 
 power. Some of them worshipped in common by all the people, and 
 others the tutelary deities of various classes. Pele, the goddess of vol- 
 canoes, and her numerous family, formed a class of deities by them- 
 selves. The Ilawaiians usually worshipped their gods by means of 
 idols, and there were many great temples throughout the islands, re- 
 mains of which are still found. The primitive manners of life and 
 thought of the ancient Ilawaiians furnish an extremely interesting 
 study, but space forbids more detail here. The Hawaiian of to-day is 
 a development from that primitive people, changed by contact with 
 modern civilization, which was introduced into the islands beginning 
 with the time of Captain Cook's discovery. 
 
 The most influential factor in bringing peace, order, education and 
 prosperity to the islands was the party of missionaries which sailed 
 from Massachusetts on the long voyage around Cape Horn to Honolulu. 
 These missionaries were New Englanders all, and with the energy and 
 pertinacity of the pilgrim fathers themselves, they labored among the 
 strange people they found, until they had created a mid-Pacific New 
 England. 
 
 Every traveler who visits Honolulu admits his first impression to 
 be a surprising familiarity in the scene. In spite of volcanic mountains 
 for a background, and the foliage of tropic vegetation 
 in riotous profusion everywhere, there is a never-fail- 
 
 ... 
 
 ing suggestion of the New England country village, IN HONOLULU. 
 
 in this island metropolis. There are the same white 
 picket fences, white frame houses with green blinds, and the same 
 gables and gateways that characterize the New England homestead. 
 When one looks at these through a vista of royal palm trees and ba- 
 nanas, the effect is somewhat startling. 
 
 It was not only in the visible forms of household life that the 
 people from Plymouth Rock made their impression in the Pacific. They
 
 008 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 found a people who, though mild of manner and disposition, generous 
 and hospitable, had absolutely no synonym or conception of the word 
 decency. Their personal habits and conversation were gross beyond 
 description. The history of missionary labors offers no other instance 
 so notable of a remarkable alteration in conditions. To-day the Ha- 
 waiian islands in every part are as orderly and well denned in their 
 organized society as our own American communities. 
 
 Honolulu is a city numbering 30,000 inhabitants, pleasantly situ- 
 ated on the south side of the island of Oahu. It is a city of foliage. 
 Except in the business blocks, every house stands in its own garden, 
 and some of the houses are extremely beautiful. The city is lighted 
 with electric light. There is a very complete telephone system, and the 
 street railway system extends throughout the principal streets to a 
 beautiful sea bathing resort and public park, four miles from the city. 
 The stores are excellent, with stocks of goods fully adequate to the 
 demands. The public buildings are handsome and commodious. There 
 are numerous churches, schools, a public library of more than 10,000 
 volumes and various fraternity halls and theaters. 
 
 Education has been the basis of the islands' prosperity and there 
 
 has been no cessation in the attention paid to this function. Oahu 
 
 college, fully equipped with buildings, library, muse- 
 
 ATJ um, beautiful grounds and a thoroughly competent 
 
 THE ISLANDS. cor P s f professors, furnishes the higher education. 
 
 Then there are academies and various charitable 
 
 schools for Hawaiian children. Among the institutions that must be 
 
 noted are Lunalilo Home for ancient Hawaiians, Kamehameha school, 
 
 and the Bishop museum, which contains the most complete collection of 
 
 South Sea objects to be found anywhere in the world. There are three 
 
 evening daity papers published in English, one daily morning paper, 
 
 and two weeklies. Besides these there are papers published in the 
 
 Hawaiian, Portuguese, Japanese and Chinese languages, and also 
 
 monthly magazines in various tongues. 
 
 The town of Ililo is the port of second importance in the Hawaiian 
 islands. It is situated on the east coast of the island of Hawaii, and 
 is consequently the nearest port to San Francisco in the entire group. 
 Probably it will be the landing place for the trans-Pacific cable
 
 AT A "LUAU," HONOLULU. 
 President Dole and vSenator Morgan, with Miss Rose between. 
 
 PRESIDENT DOLE AND FRIENDS AT A "LUAU," HONOLULU.
 
 "OFF FOR AMERICA." STEAMER DAY AT HONOLULU. 
 
 AMERICAN CONGRESSMEN AT THE "LUAU," HONOLULU.
 
 DESCRIPTIVE Or THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 073 
 
 from the American coast and a port of great importance in time, it 
 is an ideal tropical village, nestling in a beautiful grove, with pretty 
 rustic cottages almost hidden among arbors of vines and flowers of 
 the richest hues. It lies at the base of the two loftiest mountains in 
 the Pacific ocean, on the shores of a placid bay, backed by tall groves 
 of cocoauut trees. The surf-bathing upon the sea beach at IJilo is as- 
 serted to be the finest in the world. This is the only island of the group 
 on which there are active volcanoes. One of these is 
 located on the summit of Mauna Loa and the other HILO A>1) 
 
 T .., THE GREAT 
 
 at Kilauea on the southeastern slope of the moun- YOLCAXOEJS 
 tain. Visitors to the volcano make their start from 
 Hilo and, driving over a splendid carriage road constructed by the 
 government, through fields of sugar cane for many miles, and then 
 through the coffee district, reach the volcano hotel after an exceeding 
 picturesque and interesting journey. 
 
 The mainstay of the Hawaiian islands has for the last thirty-five 
 years been the sugar industry. From this source a large amount of 
 wealth has been accumulated. But the sugar industry requires large 
 capital for expensive machinery, and has never proved remunerative 
 to small investors. An attempt has been made at profit-sharing, and 
 has met with some success, the small farmer cultivating and the cap- 
 italist grinding at a central mill. Of late years, moreover, the small 
 farmer has been steadity developing in the Hawaiian islands, and at- 
 tention has been given to other products than sugar. 
 
 Rice, neither the European nor the American can cultivate as 
 laborers. It requires working in marshy land, and though on the islands 
 it yields two crops a year, none but the Chinamen can raise it success- 
 fully. 
 
 The main staple, after sugar and rice, is coffee. Hundreds of 
 thousands of coffee trees have been planted within the last five years. 
 This is essentially the crop of the future, and bids fair to become as 
 important a staple as sugar. Coffee does not require 
 the amount of capital that sugar does, and it can be 
 worked remuneratively upon a small area. It is esti- ISLANDS. 
 mated that at the end of the fourth year the return 
 from a seventv-five-acre coffee plantation will much more than pay the
 
 674 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 running expenses, while from that time on a return of from $8,000 to 
 $10,000 a year may be realized. 
 
 Fruits can be cultivated to advantage. At present the banana trade 
 of the islands amounts to more than 100,000' bunches annually and the 
 quantit} 7 might easily be quadrupled. The Hawaiian orange has a 
 fine flavor and the Hawaiian lime has an aroma and flavor far superior 
 to that cultivated in Mexico and Central America. At present the pro- 
 duction of these fruits is not sufficient to meet the local demand, but the 
 quantity could be extended indefinitely. Strawberries and raspberries 
 can be had all the year around, and pineapples, which are likewise 
 continuous in their yield, grow plentifully and in the utmost per- 
 fection. 
 
 In the uplands, w T here the climate is temperate, vegetables of all 
 kinds can be raised. Corn, potatoes, cabbages, tomatoes, beans, lettuce, 
 cauliflower, radishes and many others of the finest quality can be had 
 every day in the year, and in such profusion as to astonish those who 
 have lived only in northern climates. 
 
 Experiments in the cultivation of fibre-plants, such as ramie and 
 sisal hemp, have proven that there are possibilities in this direction. 
 Dry-land rice, cacao, guava and other strictly tropical products are 
 cultivated profitably, and should develop into more important industries 
 as the islands become more fully settled. 
 
 The islands that interest an intending immigrant are Hawaii, Maui, 
 Oahu and Kauai. The first is the largest of the group, and presents 
 great varieties of soil and climate. The Kona district lias given the 
 coffee product a name in the markets of the world. On this island are 
 now situated numerous sugar plantations. Coffee employs the industry 
 of several hundred owners from the man with 200,000 trees to the one 
 with only an acre or so. There are thousands of acres uncultivated and 
 waiting for development. 
 
 Maui is second in size of the Hawaiian islands. Besides its sugar 
 plantations, it has numerous coffee lands. In the island of Oahu, 
 where Honolulu is situated, are many beautiful valleys yet undeveloped. 
 Kauai is called the garden island, it is so well watered and so luxuriant 
 in vegetation. The island is at present largely devoted to the cultiva- 
 tion of sugar. The smaller islands of the group are not without at-
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OP THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 675 
 
 tractive opportunities and resources, but their size limits these pos- 
 sibilities in number. Lanai is largely given to pasture lands, there 
 being about 30,000 sheep upon the ranches there, be- 
 sides goats, horses and cattle. Molokai has some fine RESOU ^ ES OF 
 valleys where cattle and a few horses roam. Some CALLER ISLANDS. 
 thirty years ago a family of spotted deer were sent as a 
 present to Kamehameha V. from the emperor of Japan, and were placed 
 on this island. The small band has increased to more than 3,000, which 
 run wild over a large part of Molokai. The little island of Kahoolawe 
 is used as a sheep pasture, and has only a few residents engaged as 
 shepherds. The most westerly island of the group, Niihau, is all in- 
 cluded in one great sheep ranch, and consequently is not available for 
 other settlement, unless the owners should decide to divide it and place 
 it on the market. 
 
 Commerce of the Hawaiian Islands. 
 
 For many years virtually the entire commerce of the Ha\vaiian 
 islands has been with the United States. The accompanying figures 
 w r ill be of service in estimating the possible commerce of the islands in 
 the future: 
 
 The first table shows the total importations, including specie, into 
 the Hawaiian islands during 1897: 
 
 Per cent. 
 
 United States Pacific ports 16,502,930.70 73.58 
 
 United States Atlantic ports 297,091.04 3.36 
 
 Great Britain 865,781.25 9.80 
 
 Germany 192,932.19 2.18 
 
 China 260,417.40 2.94 
 
 Japan 292,316.34 3.31 
 
 Australasia and New Zealand 122,453.19 1.39 
 
 Canada. 58,674.92 .66 
 
 Islands of the Pacific 5,864.04 .07 
 
 France 30,997.32 .35 
 
 Other countries 208,738.10 2.36 
 
 Totals 18,838,203.09 100.00 
 
 The following shows the most important articles exported from 
 the United States to Hawaii in 1897, compared with 1896:
 
 676 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 1896 1897. 
 
 Agricultural implements $7,772 $8,012 
 
 Animals 45,647 108,557 
 
 Books, maps, etc 25,740 45,990 
 
 Bread and biscuit 33,593 34,999 
 
 Wheat 206,101 232,800 
 
 All other breadstuff* 278,470 355,867 
 
 Carriages and street cars, etc 26,063 26,801 
 
 Chemicals, drugs and dyes 124,278 103,563 
 
 Coal 10,606 . 6,809 
 
 Copper and manufactures of 1,599 3,995 
 
 Cotton, manufactures of 301,256 365,715 
 
 Fancy articles 6,425 6,737 
 
 Fish 95,171 124,991 
 
 Flax, hemp and manufactures of 31,844 86,967 
 
 Fruits, including nuts 38,916 45,329 
 
 Glass and glassware 19,347 23,654 
 
 Gunpowder, other explosives 19,452 19,514 
 
 Hay 66,832 74,525 
 
 India rubber and gutta percha, manufactures of 23,780 30,382 
 
 Iron and steel and manufactures of 726,942 885,050 
 
 Jewelry and manufactures gold and silver. . . . 6,620 4,730 
 
 Leather and manufactures of 176,027 203,455 
 
 Lime and cement 17,923 22,912 
 
 Malt liquors 51,387 ' 70,749 
 
 Matches 16,227 13,742 
 
 Musical instruments 20,190 22,845 
 
 Oils 97,256 77,106 
 
 Paints, pigments and colors 34,700 44,263 
 
 Paper and stationery 70,278 78,258 
 
 Provisions '(meat and dairy products) 155,576 148,279 
 
 Spirits " 23,968 32,695 
 
 Sugar, refined 37,440 34,140 
 
 Tobacco, manufactures of 174,100 171,315 
 
 Vegetables 27,188 31,183 
 
 Wine 72,658 76,265 
 
 Boards, deals, etc 210,934 238,784 
 
 Household furniture 66,022 96,573 
 
 All other wood 89,592 109,972 
 
 Wool, manufactures of 51,014 56,543 
 
 All other articles 438,577 580,529 
 
 Total domestic exports $3,928,187 $4,622,581
 
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