sr r V, Bell's 3nfcian ant> Colonial Xtbran? .L SO Sv THE R FROM NABOTH'S VINEYARD * FROM NABOTH'S VINEYARD BEING IMPRESSIONS FORMED DURING A FOURTH VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA UNDERTAKEN AT THE REQUEST OF THE TRIBUNE NEWSPAPER BY SIR WILLIAM BUTLER, G.C.B. LONDON GEORGE BELL & SONS 1907 " There is no bulwark in wealth against destruction to the man who in the wantonness of his heart has spurned the great Altar of Justice." This Edition is intended for circulation only in India and the British Colonies DEDICATION To some future South Africa (I pray not distant}^ when the " Good Hope " of the old Navi- gator shall have been realized. W. F. BUTLER. February, 1907. 2200329 PREFACE THESE letters from South Africa, chiefly written in the first half of 1906, are the outcome of a visit made to the sub-continent at the invitation of Mr. Franklin Thomasson, M.P., Govern- ing Director of the London Tribune. " We venture to entertain the hope," wrote the Directorate, "that you are willing to pro- ceed, in the interests of the Tribune, to South Africa in order to report in the spirit of a well-informed, broad-minded, reflective observer upon the various phases of the very delicate and difficult situation there existing. " The Tribune, of course, does not bind you to the expression of any view as the result of your investigation, which we have vii Preface no doubt will be carried out among all sections of the community; we only venture to suggest the end of the enterprise, an end in which we are sure you most cordially acquiesce the discovery of the actual facts, and the real tone and temper of the various sections with a view to the rectification of errors, the healing of differences, and the permanent blending of the peoples. . . . The districts which you visit, the people you may meet, the questions you deal with, and the dates and manner of your communications, shall be entirely at your own discretion. . . . We look forward with confidence and pleasure to your acceptance of this proposition. On our own part we shall feel highly honoured by the co-operation of," etc., etc., . . . " while from your point of view we venture to suggest that in undertaking the mission you will be not only helping to lay the foundations of a new enterprise from which important steps in the direction of progress may be reasonally anticipated, but also viii Preface rendering an all-important service, at a vital moment in history, to the highest interests of the Empire." Such was the programme proposed ; the other preliminaries were easily arranged, and on the 6th January I sailed for Capetown. In July I was back again in London. In the intervening six months, I had seen and con- versed with many representatives of the various sections of political and social life in South Africa civil, military, official, administrative, commercial, financial, and missionary. The country was not a new land to me. More than thirty years had passed since I first set foot upon its shores. This was the fourth visit I had made to it. I had seen a good deal of its old life, travelled rather extensively through it before the era of railways, and had had something to do and say to its subsequent history and later developments. On each succeeding visit there was one fact which impressed itself upon me with ix Preface increasing strength. There were new names in the offices and over the shop fronts in the towns, but out in the big country the old names were still in the farms. Men who had made money in trade or commerce had largely gone back to England to spend the remainder of their days there. The children or grandchildren of the Dutch were still on the old sites. This dominating difference between the two races, first convinced me that it was necessary to accept the fact of the permanency of Dutch life in South Africa, and the consequent greater necessity of culti- vating friendly relations with this permanent population. If you see a train going into a railway tunnel it requires no depth of observation to discover and determine the general direction in which that train will appear again at the other side of the hill, but all the same the other side of the hill is of consequence. This time I went up country after a short stay at Capetown. I was four weeks in x Preface Johannesburg, three in Pretoria, I went to the High Veldt at Middelburg, took a motor-ride through the Magliesbeerg valley and along the Rand, went down a gold mine, inspected a diamond field and a Chinese compound, visited Natal, drove fifty miles into Zululand, stopped at Bloemfontein and other places in the Orange River and the Cape Colonies, and returned to Capetown, having covered about four thousand miles in all. The following letters embody the im- pressions formed during that journey. Whether the views they express fulfil the original intentions and hopes of the gentle- men who invited me to undertake the mission, I do not pretend to decide. But in now giving the letters in a collected form to the public, I desire to record my lasting sense of the great courtesy and kind- ness shown to me by the General Director and Management of the Tribune, and to acknowledge the generous spirit which xi Preface characterized from first to last all their relations and transactions with me. I wish also to express to many friends, old and new, in South Africa my grateful thanks for acts of attention shown by them in various ways, and not the least prized among many pleasant recollections linked with this last visit to South Africa, will remain the honest admission of mistaken judgment, frankly made to me by some known or unknown opponent, of the days before the War. W. F. B. January >, 1907. Xll FROM NABOTH'S VINEYARD WE crossed the line to-day, the ninth of our voyage. A week ago the English winter was at its worst, to-day the tropic summer is at its hottest. No amount of clothing too heavy then, none light enough now. It has been quick work, but faster than change of sea or climate thought has been moving back into old days, when one came for the first time over this ocean track, more than six-and-forty years ago ; all the living things of that day gone below a bigger sea than even this one the stars, the grey waves, and the " swish " of them still here. It was another world. A little three- masted ship rolled along, lay to, tacked, close hauled on one wind, and ran free before another, took thirty-five days to get to this I B From Naboth's Vineyard ocean spot, then drifted for twenty days a veritable log in the " doldrums." At times we lowered a boat for a row around the motionless vessel, which again drifted a few miles backward as some current from the Gulf of Guinea caught her keel. Impossible to realize or recall a tithe of it now, and impossible, too, to face even in imagination a repetition of it, but never- theless the recollection of it holding more of the mystery of the sea, and of the gloom and glory of the big ocean, than one hundred steamship voyages could give to-day. No dolphins swimming round a becalmed ship now, no whale spouting on the sea-rim ; no heaving to at the signal of some home- ward bound whaler to Nantucket from a three years' cruise in the Antarctic, and sorely in need of ship's biscuit or limejuice ; for that time was just two years before the little Alabama came stealing into this South Atlantic to give the whales and the walruses a respite. It was the great circle then, now it is the short cut. And the great circle had some notable things in it when the little 2 From Naboth's Vineyard canvas-winged speck of life went on into that immense waste of waters, where the waves of the " forties " of south latitude roll around an almost landless globe. What a scene it was! The ship, topsails double- reefed, reeled up a long slope of water, seemed to pause a moment on the crest, and then went staggering down into a valley between two far-apart ridges stretching north and south under lofty leaden clouds. And the birds ? No other part of the world holds them in such numbers petrel, pigeon of Cape and Cape Horn, gull, frigate bird, and albatross up into the lofty, fleeing clouds, down between the wide following waves, wheeling, poising, screaming, fighting, swoop- ing, they hold their undisputed empire in that gloomy, limitless sea. The glory was of another kind. Some traveller has said that the grandest sight he had ever seen was the midnight heaven slowly unrolling its stars above the quiet deck of a ship in the Southern tropics. Life in a sailing ship may have been all that Dr. Johnson thought it, but neverthe- less its prison had some wonderful sunrise 3 From Naboth's Vineyard and sunset walls, and its roof could be at times a long shifting scene of suns, worlds, and glittering nebulse. If death was always a couple of feet below the surface, eternity, in star and space, was in sight above. The essence of both gloom and glory lay in one word detachment. That is impossible now ; the word has no meaning steam killed it. On this steamer of ours there is an amuse- ment committee which gives the law ruling and regulating our time and thought. There are " King's Treasuries " on board, but the daily sweepstakes, the lottery, and the fancy- dress ball close that bank ; the bookmaker is more in request than the bookshelf. Cards, quoits, concerts, cricket, dances, these absorb four-fifths of the short intervals between meals, of which there are five distinct varieties, with a liberal interweavement of beef-teas, fruits, and squashes. Ladies in pretty costumes sit in easy-chairs on the big promenade deck, or pitch quoits into buckets by day, and dance by night on a brilliantly lighted floor. The young men, sleek and well groomed, look older than their years, but they still give you the 4 From Naboth's Vineyard impression that they had not grown up and would never do so ; and this not because of any particular affection borne to them by the gods. They appear to take the game and amuse- ment part of life very seriously, treating it in a business fashion, holding consultations and giving decisions in writing. Are they reversing the old idea and taking the busi- ness of life as a game ? I remember that, in 1899, the new arrivals from England were wont to speak of war which they thought was then impending as " fun." They had come to South Africa, they said, "to see some fun." Perhaps the two or three hundred pas- sengers, who are now on board, will help us to a forecast give us a sample of what that new South Africa, of which we have heard so much in the last seven years, will be like. A bucket of the water through which we are sailing will give us all the constituent elements of this big ocean from Iceland to Tristan d'Acunha. Will the people who are throwing the rope quoits into buckets 5 From Naboth's Vineyard on the deck do a similar service, and enable us to measure the material out of which the new South Africa, from the Zam- besi to the Cape, is to be built ? That is a question of some moment. The founda- tions of the proposed edifice have been very costly. About three hundred millions, I believe, more or less probably more than less have gone ; much life and blood have been also given to it. We have been told thousands of times that the city of Johannesburg and its industry is the corner- stone of the building, and is to be finally its coping-stone. It is, therefore, of interest to ask what is the quality of the emigration material on board. A few nights ago there was a skurry of first-class feet towards the second-class deck. The band was playing a lively dance tune. What was the excitement about? In the centre of the crowd of both classes three little women were doing a "cake-walk." Despite the aid of extraordinarily high heels, they were much below the average height of ordinary women. Asking who they were, I was informed that they were three young 6 From Naboth's Vineyard persons proceeding to Johannesburg to teach the cake-walk. A day or two later, when passing the second-class saloon, I saw a delicate, sad-eyed little woman with a four- months-old baby in her arms, walking up and down singing a music-hall ditty to the accompaniment of a very depressed and sickly-looking young man her husband. These also were proceeding from London to Johannesburg. Then I visited the third- class deck ; there the people were stouter and better built, but not two in twenty were going to make solid, lasting homes in South Africa. In most cases the wives and families were left at home. It paid better to keep them there and come home for an occasional holiday, than to attempt home life in the Transvaal under the economic conditions existing there. It is not easy to get at the inner minds of these men. They are cautious. Never- theless, 'they will tell you that they prefer the Kaffir M boy" to the Chinese "coolie" as workers under them in the mines. A Cornish miner told a friend of mine on board that the Chinaman remembers a blow, 7 From Naboth's Vineyard the Kaffir quickly forgets one, and he gave instances of this difference between the African and the Asiatic, which any person who has had experience of the two races will easily understand. The black " boy " has as yet at least few, if any, of the secret methods of combination and association which run beneath the social framework of Eastern life. That, however, is at present outside our subject. What we want to know is : What portion of our human cargo is going to South Africa with the fixed intention of settling there, of living and dying on the land ? To fix a precise percentage would be difficult, but it is as certain as anything can be that the percentage is a very small one. Three- fourths of all these people are looking to the time when they shall have made a little money and can get back to England with it, saying "Good-bye" to Table Mountain for ever. Then another question arises : Suppose it otherwise suppose all, or nearly all, were going out to stay in the sub-continent, and to live and die in the " illimitable veld " would 8 From Naboth's Vineyard it be possible to make a going Colony out of this particular shipload of interesting and varied, but somewhat incohesive, human building materials ? Would these gentlemen and ladies, men and women, through their different grades and callings, from Colonial Ministers to cake- walkers, mine-managers and millionaires, globe-trotters and "Empire" variety enter- tainers would they be likely to outbreed and outlast that other stolid race of men and women (of which there is not one single specimen on board) descendants of that stout stock who sailed those seas two or three hundred years ago from the sand-flats of Friesland, and made homes in South Africa? These are questions of considerable im- portance, for on them depends the entire matter of Colony construction in the future. If this swarm from the parent hive is going South to seek some drops of the golden honey which is said to be in the Rand or Rhodesia, and then to fly back to England, it may be Empire building, but it is not Colony constructing on the old lines familiar 9 From Naboth's Vineyard to us in the past. What was the secret of that age ? Had the stress and storm of the sea this "detachment" these months of night and tempest, when the yardarms almost dipped into the sea as the masts swung from one quarter to the other had that anything to say to it ? These old ships had no bridges, no bright lights, their decks danced in another fashion. Why should this swarm stay out in that great lonely veld when they have this bright, cheap, pleasant bridge to come back over ? Our own people won't stay in their own trimmed and garlanded garden-veld at home ; they flock into the towns, to the electric light, the music-hall, and the cake-walk. Here they have them all, and no extra charge even for the cake-walk. They tell me I am to see great changes at Table Bay the breakwater is so many feet longer, there is a new Town Hall, and there are several new buildings of Chicago type and storey ; but they say, too, that the docks are half empty, and that in the big buildings there are fifteen hundred or two 10 From Naboth's Vineyard thousand offices unlet. This vessel of ours has got about a third of her full complement of cargo on board. Hearing this and a good deal more about things as they are now in South Africa, one began thinking of some men optimists and pessimists who in former days sailed into Table Bay first Barthelemy Diaz, navi- gator, discoverer, and undoubted pessimist. In his little fifty-ton Caravel, he didn't like the big seas that roared around the rock which he named the Cape of Storms. It is said that he cut a large cross on one of the root rocks of the Lion, went back to Portugal, and returned a year or two later to find " a wandering grave " off his Cape of Storms. Next there came another great navigator this time optimist to the core, Vasco di Gama he renamed the mountain frontlet, calling it the Cape of Good Hope, and going forward he gave the East to Portugal. Years later the Dutchman came. He built and made homes inland, bringing many things with him, among them the Bible ; and then for two hundred years many men came along seeking all manner of things good and ii From Naboth's Vineyard bad. At last, at the end of this crowd, there came a man who amassed vast wealth in a big diamond pit in the interior. He built too ; he was an optimist ; he had faith in the land which had brought him these great riches, and with this golden key he would unlock the fever-barred gate of Africa. What could stand against gold? On the east side of the Table Mountain a gigantic detached spur faces the sunrise ; it is called the Devil's Peak. At the base of this rock the last great optimist set up his sign the Golden Calf as four hundred years earlier pessimist Diaz had set his sign the Cross on the western buttress of the Lion's Head. Here then, as the nineteenth century closed, we had in South Africa three notable signs or tokens Cross, Bible, and Golden Calf. Then came war a desolating, murderous war and in the ruck of this strife there arrived in Table Bay a writer with a little of the poet and the seer in him. He looked up at the square mountain and saw in its flat top and snow-white cloud-cover something that reminded him of a coffin and a shroud. He was a pessimist. Both these men 12 From Naboth's Vineyard are gone, and both sleep in South Africa, which sleeps too, exhausted after its long desolating war. Who will waken her next ? Will it be a man with a Cross and a Bible, or one with the Golden Calf and a sword ? " So much to do, so little done." Did ever a passing soul repeat a more mournful message all things remembered ? CAPE TOWN, $ist January, 1906. II A THICK morning mist hung over land and sea when we reached Table Bay at daybreak and groped our way slowly towards the Dock Pier. On deck I found a fellow-passenger, the Premier of the Cape Government, who had already received a communication from the shore. He courteously gave it to me, remark- ing, "This will interest you." It was the result of the General Election in the United Kingdom cabled up to date, January 22nd, 1906. The little piece of paper handed to me by the courteous passenger held England's' verdict. Meanwhile, the mists had been rising. The Lion's Head first shook its shaggy frontlet free of cloud, then the old Table crumpled up its snow-white cover and rolled it on to the Devil's Peak, and even he, too, began to shovel it farther away into the bay that is called " False." From Naboth's Vineyard Six and a half years had passed since I had last looked at these matchless mountains, and these intervening years had done a good deal for Cape Town. It would have been strange if they had not done so. Of the two or three hundred millions of British gold poured out in the cause of whatever the long-expected official history of the war will finally decide for us, an immense amount had fallen upon Cape Town. The vast incoming flood of the precious metal had met at this point the outgoing tide from Johannesburg, and a great and immediate prosperity had arisen. It was, of course, fictitious, and it has now wholly disappeared, carrying away in the final ebb not a little of the natural normal growth of peace that the place had known previous to the war. Traces of the abnormal prosperity, how- ever, were still to be seen. The small tin - roofed, single-storied, khaki - coloured houses had doubled in number, and had spread out along the base of Table Mountain east and west, making on one side havoc in that beautiful forest of southern oak tree and stone pine which the old settlers had 15 From Naboth's Vineyard planted by Rondebosch and Wynberg more than a century earlier. The great commer- cial house-blocks were to be seen in the principal streets ; but those many-piled flats were empty like the docks, out of which the trade that would support them must come. "These great buildings," said an eminent banking authority to me, "if sold to-day, would not realize a fourth part of what they cost to build four years ago." And the lesser things are as the greater. " Before the war," said the secretary of a charitable employment organization, "if a tailor applied to me for work I could get him employment as a bootmaker now nobody will have him." But there must be the silver lining even to the cloud of the tailor's trouble, and doubtless, under such depressed economic conditions as those described by my informant, the bootmakers were sticking closer to their lasts than in the pre-war days, and misfits in clothes and boots were fewer. One high authority on trade took a more hopeful view of matters. There was a marked increase, he said, in the newspaper and 16 From Naboth's Vineyard magazine literature received by the mail from England, but it seemed to me that even the advantages of the London daily press and the monthly magazines might be paid for at too high a price ; and with customs receipts and railway returns at their present depressed state, the bookstall business could not be relied on as a measure of economic improvement. And as it was in the larger lines, so was it in smaller matters. The four-horse coach that used to run daily around the mountain, covering its five and twenty or thirty miles over the Victoria Road, through scenery not easily to be paralleled in the world, no longer exists. The traveller who would now see the back of Table Mountain, the Twelve Apostle Mountains, and the secluded bays, whose waters come cold from the Southern Ocean, must make the journey in the humble Cape cart. And the worst of it is that the gas seems to be still escaping from the balloon. The bed- rock of depression has not yet been reached. That it will be reached some day I have little doubt. The glory of South Africa's 17 c From Naboth's Vineyard chief city cannot have permanently departed. No other site in the entire African continent compares with this one, either in scenery, climate, verdure, wood, water, salubrity, or association. South Africa has a good deal of the " weary land " about it ; but the Cape Peninsula is always soft, beautiful, restful. For fifty years man has been doing much to spoil it, but it defies him. This giant rock does not throw his ever-changing shadows upon a weary land ; they fall upon trees, flowers, odorous plants, oak groves and pine- woods, heathy hills and arum-lilied vales, and around the Peninsula the Indian and Atlantic Oceans stretch out clasping arms of blue water to freshen and cool the atmo- sphere when the sun in December is at zenith power, and man's shadow falls short upon the ground. Seventy inches of rain fall annually upon the forehead of the giant, and it is that rainfall which gives all this verdure to his knees, ankles, and feet, and enables a couple of hundred thousand human beings to dwell upon them. He is a noble-looking giant as well as a beneficent one. It is worth coming all 18 From Naboth's Vineyard these miles to see him. They tell you he is at his best at sunrise and sunset, but I doubt whether his midnight aspect is not grander still. You may sometimes see him then crowned with the Southern Cross, or having a crescent moon over his forehead, and once from the gardens of the big hotel which is at his feet, I saw him under a lustrous moon, unrolling a gigantic and never-ending mantle of whitest snow-cloud from his head and shoulders, a robe too pure to touch the baser earth below, for it continually dissolved, or frayed itself into nothing among the boulders at the base. I spent a couple of hours recently with one of South Africa's most gifted sons.'" We went to the western side of the Lion's Head, where the waves that daunted Diaz are still at work, and my friend explained the foundations upon which the superstructure of the mountain rests. When the tide is low these granite foundations can be traced, and the wearing away of the waves followed through " intrusions " of felspar and sand- stone. What has been done can be seen * Dr. Kolbe, D.D. 19 From Naboth's Vineyard aloft on the sky-line. How it was done can be read below in the sea, for the immense mass of mountain was once underneath the ocean, perhaps many times below it. The waves are at their work below still, and so are the sun and the winds above ; but it is such slow work that the birds can beat it by berries, and the pine cones build more earth below than the table-top aloft loses from storm and sun. I fear that this excellent hostel in which I stay has fallen upon less propitious times than were those of its early days. It was opened shortly before the war. The conflict brought crowds to it. Magnates abandon- ing the golden city found here a genial shelter. Although it had been named after a great naval hero, it became familiarly designated as "the Helots' Home." To this delightful abode there came a corresponding crowd of ladies from England. They were intent, it was said, upon sharing and allevi- ating some at least of the horrors of war. Under conflicting conditions of this nature, amusement becomes a duty. " The sounds of revelry by night " were unceasing ; there 20 From Naboth's Vineyard were visits to hospitals and convalescent homes by day. Cynical people set them- selves in opposition to these mixed revels and reliefs ; they wrote and spoke hard things about "a plague of women." It was unfair to the fair. In describing the departed glories of the establishment to me, a denizen of the time said "there were seven widows at one time in the house." The number of the less severely bereaved ones known as " grass widows " is not re- corded, but it is certain they were very numerously represented, and that they must have shared in some degree at least the sorrows of their real sisterhood can be sur- mised from an undisputed manifestation of grief, which was said to have occurred on more than one occasion when the hair of some mourner was observed to have become the colour of straw in a single night. This, too, became subject of cavil. A sailor visiting one of these assemblies during the war, is reported to have remarked that " he didn't see anything of our great admiral, but there seemed to be a good deal of Lady Hamilton about." After all, these things 21 From Naboth's Vineyard are merely matters of convention. In Asia the bereaved one sprinkles ashes upon her head, and longs to take her place in the suttee. Why should a Western widow have anything cynical said about her if she elects to establish herself on a settee, with the halo of a golden sorrow glittering around her head? I miss some old friends that used to be in the streets here. There was a double row of old stone-pines, bordering the market- place outside the gate of the castle. They were cut down a few years since by order of the municipal authorities, I am told. I ask why these nice old things were destroyed. It is true they were not progressive ; they had been one hundred years there ; they had become, after the manner of stone-pines, a bit ragged in the stems, but their dark umbrella-tops were still full of life. At all events, it has since been discovered by reference to the Colonial archives that they had been planted immediately after the British occupation, and that a grant of English money had been made for the purpose. 22 From Naboth's Vineyard Somebody might have put in a word for them under the plea of their being a "ragged - school," children, black, brown, and white, used to sit and play in their shade and the wind often held an evening class of music in their " ragged " branches. " The Devil has great power in South Africa," was the remark of a high ecclesi- astic to me many years ago. But be that as it may, the Devil is very sick to-day. He has had his feast, and even he could not digest it. And the public are in the same plight too. The best are puzzled, the worst are less aggressive. Thousands who never thought, or thought but little, in the old times, think now they think because they saw, and they see they saw the land reduced to desolation and death, and they see now that it hasn't paid no, not even the undertakers. Retrenchment, not expenditure, has now to be practised ; places are abolished, wages lowered, staffs reduced. The pressure of what the leading progressive journal calls the " the unparelleled depression " now existing is felt everywhere. 23 From Naboth's Vineyard The seamy side of what is called " Im- perialism " is exposed to view, and those who, six years ago, were loudest in their demands for the immediate and uncon- ditional destruction of the gold-laying goose, now speak of " the inefficient conduct of the war," of "the untoward events that followed its close," of " the appalling increase in the birth-rate of the coloured population," and of "the terrible decrease in that of the European population." As for the reduction in wages, it seems to me that it would have caused less heart- burning had it been a levy en masse, run- ning from top to bottom of the social and official ladder. Then some of the abolitions strike one as being unfortunate one par- ticularly so. It was that of the historio- grapher of South Africa, a writer whose careful research, just judgment, and absolute impartiality of treatment had made his name well known in the literary world. What a world of contradiction is this South Africa ! At the same moment that this distinguished historian is removed from his official position not a highly paid one, 24 From Naboth's Vineyard either we have before us the prolonged delays that have arisen in the publication of the official " History of the War in South Africa," the cost of the preparation of which is said to amount, even in its incomplete state, to an immense sum of money. Surely this was a subject upon which the services of this trained and practised writer might have been utilized with advantage, if it be not inevitable in this case that the celebrated definition of the master-maker of history is to be realized once again. CAPETOWN, February, 1906. Ill GOING from Cape Town to Johannes- burg, the traveller will not have traversed the first hundred of the round thousand miles between the two cities before he realizes the truth of the old Dutch saying, "If you are wise, settle within sight of Table Mountain." Thirty or forty miles inland you are still in the region of the dark stone-pine, the bright southern oak, the green vineyard, thick with black-grape bunches ; peach and nectarine orchards spread around ; old gabled farmhouses with snow-white walls and dark-brown thatched roofs dot the landscape, while beyond these bits of old Holland set in the sunshine splen- dour of Southern France one sees, rising in wonderful and fantastic shapes, the Dracken- stein Mountains, with peaks and precipices so sharp and jagged that for once Nature seems to have made a mistake, building the buttress rocks so abrupt and pitching peaks 26 From Naboth's Vineyard so straight that they must fall before the storms of winter. Placed in the fairest spot of this fair district is the Paarl (the Pearl) of the early settlers, an old Dutch and Huguenot gem set in a frame of opal-coloured mountains, and kept ever bright and fresh by the waters of the Berg River, flowing from the Drackenstein to the sea. But the lesson of all South Africa is soon taught on this journey ; no stage shifts its scenes so rapidly. Table Mountain is below the horizon, we are climbing higher every mile, the houses almost disappear, treeless spaces open out on either side, until at a distance of one hundred miles, as the crow flies, from Cape Town we are three thousand feet above sea-level, and all the waste of the Karroo lies around us, and then for three hundred miles more it is sullen, blazing desert. The sun strikes fiercely upon a treeless world of cindery rock and baked clay and spiky aloe, while hot breaths of air are puffed at intervals from the mouths of ironstone glens. Some astronomical guesser recently pub- lished an illustrated article showing how the 27 From Naboth's Vineyard moon was originally formed. It was first, he said, a sort of superfluous tag to the earth, to which it was tied by a string-like isthmus, which at last became so attenuated from twizzling that the link broke and the moon sailed away into space. The Karroo cer- tainly supports this idea. It looks as though it must have been the veritable umbilical cord through which the infant tag derived a precarious sustenance before she was cast adrift, without food or water, to wander on her own account ; and this conception of the primal function of the Karroo grows upon us, when the moon, coming up over the eastern rim of this desert, looks again upon the old dry "mummy " of its earlier self, for then the dead earth wakes into strange forms of beauty, the heat and dust are gone, the iron rocks glisten into gold, the low bushes become spikes of silver, and the rugged koppies send cool breathings and cast long shadows over the weary face of Mother Karroo. Some thirty hours after leaving Cape Town the train crosses the Orange River and enters the territory which is now called 28 From Naboth's Vineyard the Orange Colony. The scene changes gradually, there is more green in the land- scape. A thunderstorm broke as we passed the long bridge at Norval's Pont, the wide river-bed was full, and the current, almost the colour of the Nile in flood, ran strong between banks of rock and thorn-bush ; but though passing thunderstorms had filled the beds of rivulets and flung rainbows across the table-topped hills, there is a deep sense of loneliness over the land ; many of the far- apart farmhouses are still ruins, some have been partly rebuilt ; the block-houses and the wire entanglements are dismantled ; the small villages, which appear at long intervals, stand out bare upon the veldt ; few sheep, and still fewer cattle, are visible. Now and again a large vulture bird, or a pair of them, flap away from the train to a neighbouring koppie. The engine is panting up that long slope of one thousand feet which leads inland for seventy miles from the Orange River. The guard comes along the corridor carriages ; he is a foreigner, and likes to tell of his experience in the past. He tells of tens of 29 From Naboth's Vineyard thousands of sheep and lambs driven in from the surrounding country against the railway lines, and left to die along the fences on either side. "It was terrible to see them dropping dead in thousands," he says, " not a blade of grass to eat or drop of water to drink." After an hour's run we got to Spring- fontein, the usual little bare village on the green and red veldt. The small town has a big cemetery. The sun is now in the West, and in its level light the white gravestones and wooden crosses stand out very clear upon a green slope east of the station. The cemetery looks so big for the village that we ask the guard about it. " Yes, there was a concentration camp of women and children here," he says, "close by the station." We consult a book. No wonder the graves are numerous. There were between two and three thousand women and children gathered in here from east and west ; like the sheep, except that they had food and water, they died plentifully all the same. In the month of October, 1901, the death- rate among the children, the book says, was 30 From Naboth's Vineyard 480 per thousand per annum. But that was nothing. A hundred miles further north, at a place called Brandfort, the children died in this same month of October at the rate of 1951 per thousand per annum, which in plain unstatistical English means that the whole of the child-population would have been exterminated in six months if that rate of mortality continued. This camp at Spring- fontein was only a sort of " East End " opening on the long path of the Boer Via Dolorosa. In Brandfort, further north, more than one thousand women and children perished in a few months, but it will be black night when the train reaches there, and we shall not have even an old moon to show us the thousand and one white stones which mark that " Queen's Gate " on the Boer woman's road to heaven. " Stagger humanity " in- deed ! What did old Kruger know about such a thing ? He was only a poor lion- hunter, who could cut off half his own hand, when a gunshot had shattered it. We are of sterner stuff. We continue north ; some stations appear 31 From Naboth's Vineyard to be nothing but a platform and a name- board. They would seem to have been making new stopping-places recently, or changing the names of old ones. We pass a big board with " Highbury " painted large upon it. The name sets us thinking. Why " Highbury " here ? What is the link ? Are "the sands in the hour-glass running low"? Is the Orange Colony " a squeezed sponge " ? Is there to be " another way of loosening the knot"? It can't have anything to do with "three acres and a cow," because that useful animal may be said to have, since the war, thirty thousand acres allotted in these parts to its pasturage. Then another thought comes : perhaps this big board was set up as a sort of buoy or landmark in the veldt, to mark the precise spot where the thirty millions disappeared the " Hidden Trea- sure " of that great land of promise, Johan- nesburg. We give up guessing as the sun goes down, and the gloaming begins to darken the lower landscape, and what an after-glow it is ! pink and purple, rose and gold, sapphire and opal, all mixed with bits of broken rainbows, shafts, and blades 32 From Naboth's Vineyard of light. Thunder-clouds, lightning flashes, and rain sweeps ; the big vulture birds here and there still flapping over a darkening land. Another hour and we are at Bloemfontein. The station is garish with electric light. We look out in the night at the lights and the people ; beyond the town the outline of a hill can be traced against what is left of an afterglow. It is enough. A very slight tinkle of the brain-bell sent through the eye or the ear is sufficient to ring up a whole vanished world of recollection. Thirty years ago I went up that little eminence at the back of the then village of Bloemfontein, in company with the then President of the then Orange Free State graduate of Cambridge, member of the English Bar, later on Sir John Brand, Knight Commander of some British Order. Twenty-four years later I was here again, President Brand was in his grave, the village had become a town, the farm-houses had doubled in numbers, the wild animals were gone. The Free State had grown into d very prosperous little community too pros- perous perhaps. Now I was back here 33 D From Naboth's Vineyard again. The people on the platform were speaking Dutch and English, but it didn't matter. I was straining my eyes into the darkness to see what my brain was seeing and hearing. It was the old President who was speaking. "I had gone from Bloemfontein to London," he had said (that time when we stood together on the koppie), "to see about some matters in which I had thought we had not been treated fairly by the British Government. I had an interview with the Secretary of State, in which I endeavoured to put the subject before him as fully as I could. He listened with the greatest atten- tion. When I had ceased speaking he rose from his chair, unfolded a pocket-map of South Africa, and begged that I would point out to him on it where the Orange Free State was." Such a thing could not occur now, of course ; it was only old memory ; we know more about our colonies and their neighbours. The geographical distribution of Empire is better understood ; moreover the Board School system had been estab- lished since that day, and wall maps are now numerous. 34 From Naboth's Vineyard The train moved north again, and the lights soon vanished, but the ghosts did not go out with them ; later ones came running through the brain ten thousand times faster than the train was moving through the night. It was a memory of Bloemfontein again. I had gone there a second time in 1899. It was a period of great national elation ; a new secret had been found ; the march of the men of Empire was about to begin. Every- thing was henceforward to be sold at the cannon's mouth. You had only to fire off so many thousand tons of lyddite, and shoot so many million rounds of shell and bullets into rocks and koppies, and then the new era would open, all our enemies would run away, we would be rich at home, powerful abroad, and happy everywhere. Anybody who had the misfortune to doubt this simple pro- gramme of national progress was an imbecile, or worse. Six months from the date of that second sight of Bloemfontein I was in London ; events had moved rapidly. I called upon a high official. I endeavoured to explain to him the position in South Africa as it had struck 35 From Naboth's Vineyard me in a rapid survey of the sub-continent. I spoke of a hardy race of men, of determined women, of an immense land, of many things which I had been writing with persistent reiteration to people in England during the six preceding months. He did not listen to the finish. "You may say what you like," he broke in, "and very possibly your views may be those which the future will hold about this war, if it is to be war ; but as to the cost and the difficulties, and the opposi- tion upon which you are laying such stress, you may take it from me, as a matter of absolute certainty, that the whole affair won't cost ten millions, and that the Union Jack will be flying over over over What do you call that town beginning with a B ? before Christmas." It was then mid- September. Forty-three hours out from Cape Town the train crossed the Vaal river and began to ascend the long incline which leads from Vereeniging to Johannesburg. Rain had fallen heavily in the night, day broke over the red saturated soil as we passed the river. After an hour the clouds began to lift, and 36 From Naboth's Vineyard under them one could see the ridge of the Witwatersrand and the long line of tall black chimneys pouring volumes of blacker smoke into the rain clouds. It was summer in South Africa, but the city of Birmingham could not have loomed darker in mid-November than this hill of the White Waters under combined thunder- cloud and coal-smoke. A traveller came into these parts many years ago, and he wrote a book about the country, its present, and its possible future. He spoke of the deer on the hill-top, the sun setting through smoke of a far-off grass fire, the great stretches of plain where no sound broke the stillness but the wind in the long grass, and the dripping of water down a stony donga ; then he looked forward into the future. A native had shown him that day a dark streak or seam of coal laid bare in one of the dongas, and his mind going ahead saw visions of "great factories and tall chimneys, pouring forth dark streams of smoke, blurring sunlight and blotting out sky," and many other things which would happen when men followed that black streak 37 From Naboth's Vineyard into the ground. I have been told that that man lost money afterwards in South Africa. It was said that he was behind his time, and that he missed his opportunity, which I can readily believe. There are so many oppor- tunities in South Africa that a man might easily get confused there, and miss them all. A man may sometimes equal Boyle Roches' bird, for he can be before his time, and behind his time, and the people who stand in the middle will abuse him equally in both positions. At best it is only a case of legs, for if the legs be weak their owner will lag behind, and if they be long he will see over the heads of the other people. But he had need to be cautious about telling those who may be near him what he sees, or thinks he sees. Let him content himself with telling them what they see. That information will always be pleasant to them and harmless to him. Meanwhile we are at Johannesburg. JOHANNESBURG, 28/7* February ', 1906. IV THERE is always something strange out of Africa," we are told. But it is only in our time that the full " strangeness of Africa " is apparent. And it is in the southern portion of the Continent that the tree of strangeness attains its fullest growth. The sun and his shadows go in wrong directions. He is away in the north ; they seek the south. The moon is stranger still. She lights her evening lamp at the off side of her face to that which she first illumines for the benefit of Europeans. The winds are all strange, too. The breath from the north is hot that of the south cold. The east blesses and the west blights. Rain when it falls at all falls mostly in summer. Many of the rivers never reach the sea, and the sea only gets into the rivers across shifting sand-bars, which makes them hopeless to commerce. Is it surprising, then, that under these 39 From Naboth's Vineyard strange skies, and on this stranger stage, the players should sometimes play strange parts ? Is it surprising that names should lose their meanings, and persons change their natures, or that most undeniable and undiluted statements of fact and truth, when put in at one end of the ocean cable, should sometimes come out at the other end, like the moon, with the light all on one cheek ? Seventy or eighty years ago it was our custom to send as Governor to South Africa some old soldier of the wars. Lowry Cole, George Napier, Harry Smith, George Grey, etc. What did these veterans do when they found themselves ruling this strange land ? They turned their swords into pick- axes and spades. The victor of Albuera made roads across the mountains. He of Aliwal made friends with the Dutch Boers. (They built dorps and named them after him and after his wife.) Even in our own day you will find the last of ouf soldier heroes Charles Gordon writing a year before his death : " I declare I like the Boers." Then we tried a different plan. We 40 From Naboth's Vineyard stopped the tap of the drum and turned on that of the shop-keeper. We sent out our most peace-loving people. Statesmen of Scinde, righteous - minded men, academic men, men versed in the knowledge of the Egyptian, men of the Exchange, the Gazette, and the commerce of the Thames. What did they do ? They went to war at once. They flung peace to the winds. They were consumed by a sort of Napoleonic delirium. They scattered tens of millions of money over the veldt. They burnt everything and belaboured every one. They were all for performing a sort of Caesarian operation upon the womb of the future South Africa. Do not imagine I am criticizing them on their actions. No. It was not they who did all these curious things. It was the moon, working out in her own slim way, the " strangeness " of Africa. I first came to South Africa more than thirty years ago on the staff of the only soldier who, in the course of nearly half a century of service, impressed me as having in him those qualities of mind and method From Naboth's Vineyard of which Clarendon has left us a word- picture. "He was of an industry and vigi- lance not to be tired out or wearied by the most laborious of parts not to be imposed on by the most subtle and of a personal courage equal to his best parts." We travelled extensively through the land. It was horse, waggon, or mule-cart in that day. The " strangeness " of Africa was one long delight to us. A year before we had been toiling in the most pestilential region of tropical Africa. Some of us had all but left our bones in that dreary equatorial forest. What a change it was to the lofty plateaux with the blue Drakensberg, the snow-covered Malutis, and the endless up- lands of the interior ! One evening we reached a village in the northern part of a Colony. Everybody said of this village that it had a vast future before it, and there was certainly room for the largest future that the mind could conceive. The town itself I have wrongly called it a village consisted of about a dozen houses, mostly built of tin, but an enormous area of hill, vale, and plain spread 42 From Naboth's Vineyard around it on every side. There was the usual address of loyalty and devotion to the Throne presented by the mayor and corporation, and at the end of the address, or in the discussion that followed it, there was a request that the Governor and High Commissioner might be pleased to sanction an allotment from the revenue of the Colony of some thousands sterling for the purpose of carrying out a complete system of muni- cipal drainage. One among the ten or twenty houses composing the town stood on a broad eminence ; the remaining structures occupied detached points in a rather swampy valley. When the time came for the High Commissioner's reply, I wondered what he would say. A town with a great future before it could not be lightly gainsaid. While the mayor and leading citizens were speaking, I saw the Governor's eye taking stock of the surrounding situation. " Gentle- men," he said, after thanking the munici- pality, " I entirely sympathize with you in your natural desire to have your promising town placed in a position in regard to its drainage and sanitary conditions which will 43 From Naboth's Vineyard enable it to fulfil the requirements of its undoubted future, but the scheme you pro- pose would be a costly one l and the finances of the Colony are not for the moment too redundant. Would it not be less ex- pensive if we were to move the town up to the top of that hill where the single house now stands ? It would then practically drain itself." Everybody was satisfied. The secret of success in South African administration has been not to take the burthen of Government too seriously. Un- fortunately for England, and still more for South Africa, we have been in the habit, for the last ten or fifteen years, of regarding the ordinary occurrences inevitable to life in the sub-continent with a terrible seriousness, but still more have we erred in treating lightly things that all men have regarded as serious since the beginning of recorded history. On the whole, it may be said that if we accept the sun as he is and not as he ought to be, and allow the moon to light her face as she pleases, and live as much as possible out of doors, and keep as far as we can from a telegraph station (particularly 44 From Naboth's Vineyard when Parliament is sitting), then the white man's burthen of Government in South Africa could be carried on with a fair measure of success, even despite the un- seemly attitudes of the heavenly bodies. I have heard knowledgeable persons aver that if Mr. Dooley and his able lieutenants, Hennesey and Hogan, could be induced to take up their residence on the Rand for a few months, the knowledge that England would possess of the state of affairs in Johan- nesburg would be much more accurate and extensive than it is now. I will not enter into that question, but I think it safe to say that if we had continued the old methods of Government of the Coles, the Greys and the Smiths, we would have been quite as near Cairo at the Cape as we are at present, and in addition have kept a couple of hundred millions of money in our own pockets. But among the strange things in or out of Africa, Johannesburg is unquestionably the strangest. Twenty years ago a man found a chunk of rock which had gold in it where the city now stands. Everybody knew that South Africa was full of gold for 45 From Naboth's Vineyard more than twenty years before that find, but nobody had struck the metal in quantities such as this discovery was destined to produce. At first the experts would have none of it. " It was not the sort of rock that ought to bear gold," they said. But they came, tapped, and debated. There could be no doubt about the gold, no matter how the rock could be called or classed. A Boer was equal to the occasion. He named the rock in which the metal was mixed " Banket." The word solved the difficulty if it did not explain the formation. " Banket " is a sweet condiment which has small lus- cious substances scattered through it. The conglomerate rock represented the sugar- plums of the Boer lollilop. There were three " reefs " of this substance running at irregular intervals through larger encase- ments of rock in which there were no gold pebbles or sugar specks. The three rich reefs thus sandwiched between useless en- compassing rocks were not only of varying thickness, but also of varying richness the thinnest sandwich being by far the best in quality as though Nature when forming From Naboth's Vineyard this curious cake compound put the best of her goods into the smallest parcel. One of the reef condiments is some feet in thickness another, the rich one, is only a few inches through. The three reefs dip from the surface into the bowels of the earth, south- wards, at a gradual angle of about 45, and the descent of man in pursuit of these gold- bearing layers has to be followed into the mine at that angle. Thus, when the miner has bored and blasted his way to a depth of, say, three thousand feet, he is nearly one thousand yards horizontally to the south of the surface-hole where he started. Now this underground bore work has to be done, with few exceptions, by man, and man does it in this way : He squats in a low gallery, or " stope," in the rock, and drives a drill into its flinty face. With one hand he holds the drill against the rock. With the other he hammers, hammers, hammers, all day long. When the drill has been driven sufficiently deep into the banket rock, the holes are filled with dynamite, and the fuzes fired at midnight, for the mine is then empty. At daybreak 47 From Naboth's Vineyard the fumes and gases are gone fresh air is driven down the shafts the men enter the mine, load the debris into little iron trucks, wheel them to the lifting-places, where the contents are drawn to the surface, and again, and still again, the hammers go on against the ever-deepening face of the banket rock. Let us go aloft with our loads of shattered stone. They are quickly put through the gigantic mills, which are howling and stamp- ing- for them overhead. We need not follow o them much farther. Crushed to minutest powder, drenched with water, sifted over sheets of copper and mercury the white powder gives up at once fifty per cent, of its precious deposit. Another forty-seven per cent, is extracted in three subsequent processes, where the "slime," as it is called, is treated with cyanide, which precipitates the remaining gold to the bottom of enormous tanks. Then follow various treatments by means of zinc shavings, until at last the final stage of the smelting furnace is reached, and the pure gold emerges into brick shape for the banks. All these processes represent three great 48 From Naboth's Vineyard forces. Flesh and blood underground ; water and fire working through machinery above. It takes about seven days from the primal stage in the banket below until the brick of gold is ready to be carted to the bank above. Such is the process by which this strange triple reef of the Wit- watersrand is made to give up the gold it has hoarded since the water, and the fires, and the rocks were all one. But it is with the flesh and blood part of the work that we have to deal the human labour which is necessary to hammer and drive below in order to feed the enormous array of stamps, cyanide tanks, and furnaces above. We are here face to face with a question which has wrecked Cabinets, smashed reputations, and convulsed the Empire in all the relations of its political life. Until about a year and a half ago this underground 'rock-boring business was carried on along the Witwatersrand by the black men of South Africa. In 1899, imme- diately before the war, when the " industry," as it is called, was at its highest pitch of development, some 90,000 black men 49 E From Naboth's Vineyard sufficed to put forth enough banket rock to give a monthly yield of more than a million and a quarter sterling. In these first eight months of 1899, 91,000 blacks and about 12,000 whites made gold to a total of thirteen millions sterling, more or less. Turn we now to the year 1905. Here we find that 95,000 natives, about 35,000 Chinese, and some 1 5,000 whites produced practically the same yield. The inference to be drawn from the dis- parity between the numbers at work and the return of gold produced in the two periods, goes far to establish the correctness of a statement made to me in conversation in July or early August, 1899, by the late Mr. Seymour namely, that the reef on the Witwatersrand at certain depths was neither in yield of gold nor in working facilities what it had been. The reef is more difficult to work. The yield of the banket is poorer. There is more labour, less profit. It is not from lack of labour alone, as com- pared with the pre-war days, that the mines have suffered of late. It is that there must be more drilling with less result. 50 From Naboth's Vineyard Let us now turn for a moment to the social and economic situation which the mines have created above ground at Johan- nesburg. Professions, trades, shops, hotels, banks, agencies, newspapers, offices of every kind have sprung up on the top of the reef. One hundred thousand white people, of whom 80,000 are men, have to live above, while 150,000 blacks have to toil below. Of 100,000 whites, the majority have lived, up to the present time at least, what might be called " the sporting life." The cost of living was very high. The pound sterling in Johannesburg was not, and is not to-day, worth more than nine shillings in its pur- chasing capacity as compared with London. But money came easily if it went quickly. Everybody betted or gambled or did both. The white miner who drew ^30 or 40 a month in wages spent perhaps half of it on himself or his family, and gambled on the stock exchange with the other half. He, like his masters, had his brokers. So long as things boomed, he made money and had a good time. He lived upon "booms" quite as much as on banket-boring. He From Naboth's Vineyard frequently became a microscopic magnate. He was no longer a miner in any of the old meanings of that term. How will it all work out ? He would be a far-seeing man who would answer that question, but here is a forecast of some interest when we remember the source from which it comes. The Jewish Chronicle of Johannesburg, in a leading article, recently wrote as follows : " The whole social fabric which surrounds us is changing under our very eyes. We can at once characterize most of the cities of the British Empire as England and Christian. Not so Johannesburg. He who should pro- ceed on the assumption that it was English and Christian would soon find himself con- fronted with some very puzzling situations. He would soon discover that one, and perhaps the indispensable, factor in the economic life of the town is an element which is neither English nor Christian, and can hardly by any conceivable means become either Anglicized or Christianized. He would find if his own or any other nationality were taken away the town would 52 From Naboth's Vineyard still go on, but that if the Chinese went the town would collapse. . . . Hence we conclude that Johannesburg must in the near future become practically a Chinese town a town in which Chinese will be the most important language, and where the dominant religion corresponds. The old regime was the share market i.e. drawing money from the Euro- pean investor to the satisfaction of everybody concerned. This must cease . . . they (the men of the old regime) will now all be glad if they can get out with a whole skin." And then in the tag comes the best bit : "The Jew is to survive the exodus of all his compeers, because he will be able to adapt himself to the changed order of things." No one can complain of the frankness with which this article is written. It may be brutal, but it has the merit of plain speaking. There is no endeavour to prove that the Chinamen will better the position of the white man on the Rand ; no attempt to show that the civilization of Europe will erase that of Asia in Johannesburg. This editor clearly thinks that the ethics 53 From Naboth's Vineyard of Confucius will hold their own in the compounds against the teaching of the Archbishop of Canterbury. Briton and Boer (happily perhaps for themselves) are to have no part in this glowing future. Two Asian cities are to arise on the Ridge of the White Waters and the remainder of the sons of men are to go into the Dead Sea. JOHANNESBURG, March, 1906. V UNTIL the epoch of the war the labour question in Johannesburg did not become really serious. We have seen aow 90,000 or 100,000 black men sufficed to produce gold which 150,000 can only equal to-day. But the war brought two great changes into the question. It made the capitalist masters believe that they wculd be able to introduce a cheaper form of labour into the mines, and at the same moment it caused the native labourer to think he was entitled to receive a higher rate of wages than had been paid him before the war. Nor could it be said that he was un- reasonable in holding this belief. He had been in receipt of four pounds a month and more from the military authorities during the war, given to him for work above ground, which was in every respect much more con- genial to his tastes. He had helped the Government to achieve the conquest of the 55 From Naboth's Vineyard Boers, a help which he believed, not without some reason, to have been an essential facior in that conquest, and now when that con- quest had been achieved, its first resuli to him was a proposal to reduce the wages he had been paid in the pre-war days by more than fifty per cent., and to lessen :hem seventy-five per cent, as compared with the war wage. It was certainly a most unfor- tunate moment at which to propose such reductions. Whether it had its roct in a long-conceived idea on the part of the capitalists to force upon the Imperial Government that acceptance of the prin- ciple of yellow labour to which all Govern- ments the Boers and that of the British had hitherto always objected, cannot be definitely proved ; but it is widely believed that such was the object of the moment, and that the old game of forcing the hand of the Imperial Government in this matter of imported labour was again being resorted to by the cosmopolitan capitalist who had so far worked the lever of British patriotism on all occasions to the advancement of his personal aims. 56 From Naboth's Vineyard Yellow labour promised several advan- tages to its employer : 1. It was to be for three years instead of for six months. 2. It was to be cheaper than black labour. 3. It would keep out the white work- man. 4. It was a possible lever against black and white. 5. It would cause a boom in shares. As to ^the nature of the labour itself, its moral aspect, or its effect on South Africa outside the Rand, these were matters about which the managers or magnates scarcely troubled themselves. They had not asked themselves what a war between the white races in South Africa would really mean to the sub-continent, neither did they question the lesser issues involved in this new depar- ture in labour which was certain to introduce complex conditions into a problem which was already a deeply complicated one. They saw only the policy of the moment a greater yield of gold more rapidly arrived at, the duplication of share profits, a quicker 57 From Naboth's Vineyard passage from the uncertain seas of South African finance into that haven or heaven of all rapidly acquired riches the great Fair of Vanity in London. And it is an easy matter now for organized capital acting upon the existing conditions of South African life to produce an artificial situation which renders the particular policy it desires an apparent necessity to the State. The compound system is nothing new in South Africa. It has existed in Kimberley for twenty years, and under conditions more degrading to human nature than any which obtain in Johannesburg. The extraordinary influence which the late Mr. Rhodes pos- sessed in England probably caused the compound system to remain unquestioned during all these years. It is now only debated because it is associated with the question of Chinese labour. But its essence has always been the same. The best thing that can be said of it is that it is a com- promise between free labour and slavery. That it comes nearer the latter system than the former most people who know both systems will admit, even though it does not From Naboth's Vineyard possess the worst adjuncts of the old slave system, the horrors of the middle passage, the barracoon, and the sale-market. From these things the indentured system is exempt, but it has features which the old slavery lacked. The Kaffir who has come to the Witwatersrand on a three or six months' indenture is a less valuable animal to his master than was the black slave in Alabama fifty years ago, for whose possession the cotton planter had paid one thousand dollars. The slave had at least the animal value which he had cost. The indentured " boy " had not even got that selfish hold upon his employer. Hence we have the long lists of maimed and broken beings, the ravages from pneumonia, the heavy death-rates in in the mines among men in the prime and fullest vigour of life. What is inconsistent in this compound controversy is that we seem to have swallowed without protest this system for twenty years when it had relation to our own black people, and to have become suddenly alive to its evils when it was applied to Chinese coolies. As a matter of fact, the advent of the coolies to Johannesburg has 59 From Naboth's Vineyard improved the level of animal life in the compound. The rooms are better built, the food is more generous than it used to be. But with all these improvements the compound system is, and must remain, a horrible system. " Tainted with slavery ? " Aye, even steeped in some things that formed the most brutal- izing features of that once cherished insti- tution which our less fastidious-speaking forefathers called slavery. You have to live some little time on the Rand before finding out the ramifications of the coolie question. Half a dozen Chinese will be pointed out to you driving in cabs about Johannesburg or smoking cigarettes at a railway station, and you will be asked in ironic tones, " Are these your slaves ? " Longer acquaintance with compound life will give other readings. When the coolie emerges from the mine after his eight or ten hours' "shift," he enters the compound, washes, eats, rests, and gambles. He has no other amusement or recreation. All Chinamen are gamblers. Every room has its punters. Money is plentiful from Ah 60 From Naboth's Vineyard Sin's point of view. A clever punter will clear the wages of a dozen men in a few hours. It is usually these successful "bookies " that are to be found in the cabs in the streets of Johannesburg. Sunday is the favourite day for the outings of these experts. The Kaffir looks on in open-mouthed astonish- ment. Here is his rival, his enemy, disport- ing himself in a manner which he, the native of the soil, cannot hope to imitate. He cannot take cabs or perambulate the side- walk like this imported punter with the pigtail. The thing that is certain in all this babel of confused opinion is that the China- man has come to add yet another factor of demoralization to that already long list of subjects which "civilization" is teaching to the negro in the school of the Witwaters- rand. So far as I have been able to read this Asiatic problem in South Africa, it is not the slavery of the yellow man or the Indian which is to be feared. It is his eventual mastership of the land. Our modern Euro- pean pagans are constantly asking their much-to-be-pitied gods to reveal the burden 61 From Naboth's Vineyard that is on their knees. The gods are silent, but Buddha and Brahma and Vishnu have their eyes set wide open on Africa, even though their lips are closed to Europe. " Do what we may," said one of the ablest of the American mine managers on the Rand to me, " we cannot get even with the Chinaman. He always gets the best of us." A glance is sufficient to show that the managers are not altogether happy with their new labour. The Chinese compounds have many inventions and precautions which the old black compounds do not possess. More barbed-wire lines above the walls, curious-looking hydrants fixed upon roof- tops, and parapets with brazen muzzles laid straight on the yards, ready to turn on a jet of water " sufficiently strong to lift a dozen coolies off their legs." When you walk through the yards there is a look in these queer-angled black eyes altogether different in quality and expression from that in the equally black, but quite level-set, eyes of the negro. The yellow man has had for centuries the most complete system of secret societyship 62 From Naboth's Vineyard in the world. The Cornish ganger has had some remarkable proofs of the manner in which this system works. He cannot hammer the yellow labourer as he was wont so often to hammer the black one. Curious things sometimes happen. A blow is not forgotten by this new-comer as it was by the old. Retentive memories would seem to temper tempers, even in a South African mine. The Chinamen have a trade union of their own, just as they had gunpowder and the mariner's compass long ages before we knew them. "You can't knock 'em down," said an experienced Cornish ganger to a friend of mine. " You can't hit them as you would a nigger they remember it, they does." There are some fifty thousand Chinese coolies on the Witwatersrand to-day. The magnates want, I am told, double or treble or four times that number. I have an idea that if the Imperial Government were to accede to that demand, or, let us say, if they put two hundred thousand Chinese coolies on the Rand, there would be after a little while no further trouble in Johannes- burg. The development would be complete, 63 From Naboth's Vineyard but it would not be exactly on the lines looked for. The Chinese do not like the mine work any more than the black man likes it ; but the yellow man has signed for three years, and the black has only signed for six months, hence the attempts at desertion on the part of the longer indentured men. No person who has seen the work and the life in the mines can be astonished at this condition of affairs. " It is devilish work," said a high official in the native department to me, " the men hate it." It is curious to note that all the deserters who have been recaptured have been found to the northward of Johannes- burg. None have been traced south of it. They imagine that by heading north they will reach China. About a score of Chinese deserters have been found on farms nearly two hundred miles north of the Witwatersrand. " They are going to China," they say. "It is not so far off. The ship that brought them went round and round to make them think it was a long distance." Probably some of them will be found before very long in Cairo that 64 From Naboth's Vineyard will be the solution of the Cape to Cairo problem. What is to be done ? That is indeed a difficult question to answer. Johannesburg has been taking leaps in the dark for a long while. To escape from the evil of one jump it has sprung into another. Raid, war, cheap labour, Chinese where will the next spring be made ? There is a favourite mine on the Rand called " The Jumpers' Deep." Will Johannesburg's next jump be into the abyss? And meanwhile? Meanwhile you will have to go on with the Chinese experi- ment. They speak truly who tell you that rapid removal of the yellow man would mean heart failure and death. The Chinese are at present to the Witwatersrand what the administration of oxygen is to the sick man. Stop it and he sinks. All this accumulated mass of life has its sole root in these mines. They call it an " industry." Let us accept the term and ask in turn What have you done with this " industry " during those last twenty years if now you require the aid of fifty thousand Chinamen to save it from extinction ? You have induced the British 65 F From Naboth's Vineyard public to invest untold millions in your schemes. They have given you all you asked of them, even war and yet the Chinese coolie is to be the last chance of Witwatersrand salvation from ruin. " Tis true 'tis pity ; and pity 'tis 'tis true." " And all this time, while you were laying the blame upon a dozen outside causes or agencies, the one real cause of failure has been kept back over-capitalization ; enor- mous, unequalled expansion and inflation. And you who would still rule and still dictate are not to be the sufferers. While you kept Johannesburg jumping in the dark you took care to jump clear into the light to jump into palaces and pleasant places, the very glow and glamour of your agility only serving to bring into your nets larger catches of innumerable smaller fishes and lesser fry in the waters of speculative finance.' 1 It is impossible not to feel pity for the large class of hard-working men in Johannesburg upon whom, so far as human judgment can foresee, the financial catastrophe, if it occurs, will eventually fall. The oxygen process cannot go on for ever. 66 From Naboth's Vineyard The question that is uppermost in the minds of the average white citizen to-day on the Rand is not the political racial question. It is the economic one. Like the traveller in the old inn where the four-post bed had a top which slowly and silently descended upon the sleeper pressing him to death as he lay, so the ordinary white dweller in Johannes- burg begins to see what he believes to be an elaborate and highly organized system of capitalist machinery quietly descending upon him, threatening to crush him out of exist- ence. The fear may be only the nightmare of an imagination overheated or disordered by the fever of life on the Rand, but, as there was a picture on the wall of the old inn which served to warn the traveller of his impending doom, so the modern sojourner in the Golden City has had some very notable disappearing landmarks to awaken his sus- picions and arouse his fears. Will the ballot- box save him while there is yet time ? PRETORIA, 26th March) 1906. VI THE stream of life runs so swift in Johannesburg that yesterday is almost forgotten before to-morrow has come, a fortunate fact for the man who has to steer the course of his inquiry through the twisting channels of Witwatersrand political life. He has only to go back six months, a year, or six years, not indeed to get " true bear- ings," these are difficult to discover ; but to find some new pretext eating up an old one, some prophecy made void by the piti- less hand of Time. Pretext is a hard taskmaster. It demands either complete forgetfulness on the part of the audience, or a continuously lengthening chain ol " terminological inexactitude " on that of the performer. Let us look back a little. The Raid was undertaken, we were told on the highest authority, for the rescue and salvation of the women and children in Johannesburg. 68 From Naboth's Vineyard The war was for the heritage of the British workman, free labour, free press, free speech, free emigration, free everything. This all-embracing thirst for freedom finally resolved itself into a geographical expres- sion ; everything was to be free up to the Zambesi. One was never able to under- stand why the line of freedom was drawn at that river. Were we afraid that if Freedom went north of the Zambesi it might get into the Nile Valley and carry from the Cape to Cairo an undesirable commodity ? The geographical expression solved diffi- culties and silenced doubts. Zambesi became another " Mesopotamia." People looked for it in the map, and they who found it equally with those who were unable to do so, were more than ever convinced that it was the place where the flag of an ideal freedom was to be displayed to an admiring world. Then came the war ; other rivers inter- vened ; the Tugela, the Orange, the Modder, forced themselves into public recognition, and the Zambesi was forgotten. The war 69 From Naboth's Vineyard which was to have been a three months' picnic took so many years that its origin and pretext had been lost sight of ere it was half over. But the prophets were soon at work again. Progress and development were now the watchwords ; the new white settler was to come in, the old Boer was to go out. Irrigation, railways, lunatic asylums, depart- ments, expansions and extensions, all these were to rapidly raise the land to a pitch of prosperity such as it had never known ; millions of white men were to make their homes on the Rand. "The land of the Republic is now being cleansed by fire and sword," wrote one prophet, whose name, I think, rhymed with or resembled Moloch. "The changes which will ensue through enlightened government in the Transvaal will be so great, that they will affect the other colonies as well ; all will share in the coming progress ; there will be a new South Africa. . . . Besides supporting a pros- perous population, and repaying tenfold any capital judiciously invested, they (the mines) can easily supply sufficient revenue to pay for their own government, and provide a 70 From Naboth's Vineyard surplus to repay any reasonable part of the great sum that has now been spent upon them." The great alchemists to whose gaberdines or frock-coats we had pinned our faith, assured us that if we only continued to put our money into the " slots " and " stopes " of Johannesburg we would be richer than the dreams of an East-End costermonger when he is about to set out for South Africa. Again the money went in, the handle turned, and nothing came ; indeed something worse than nothing came. Things ran exactly in the other direction ; men were wanting food in Johannesburg ; notices had to be pub- lished stopping intending emigrants. No person was to be allowed to land in South Africa without a special permit; relief societies and unemployed agencies were everywhere at work. For once South Africa was consistent, and it was somewhat tardily discovered that you could not destroy from eighty to one hundred millions' worth of cattle, sheep, hogs, houses, and household goods throughout a vast region, and immediately begin a boom in From Naboth's Vineyard stocks, shares, buildings, lands and mines upon the same ground. If man did not live on bread alone, much less could he subsist on gold, when that metal was produced in a land upon which every vestige of life, food sustenance, and shelter had been destroyed. Still the sooth- sayers were not dismayed, they did not unsay what they had said, they only ignored it, and went on again at promise and pro- phecy. It was cheap labour they now asked for, cheap and nasty ; the last didn't matter if they got the first. Moloch was getting desperate ; he had to lift a corner of the prophet's veil. It was not white labour he wanted, not even black ; it was yellow. Here, then, was the final outcome of the war ; this was the freedom, this the progress, this the development. Short as were memo- ries in England and in Johannesburg, men remembered the promises of the pre-war period. Zambesi, birthright, free labour, " cleansing by fire and sword," all bartered and battered down for a mess of Chinese rice porridge. Men remembered, too, that old Paul 72 From Naboth's Vineyard Kruger had told them this would be the end of it. He had said to the English workmen, "When they have driven me out they will drive you out." This was the beginning of that last phase. But the prophets had another pretext ready. "Give us," they said, "enough yellow men and we will employ more white men." This was that particular form of half- truth which philosophers have told us was the worst falsehood. And now a notable exhibition was to be given of the freedom of opinion enjoyed upon the Rand under the new dispensation. During the earlier pre-war days, when the British workman was being exploited as the lever for upsetting the Boer Government, three gentlemen had been imported from England by the inner Rand circle as editors of newspapers wholly devoted to mining politics and interests. These gentlemen were not prepared to eat their words at the bidding of their masters, and to advocate against their convictions the introduction of Chinese. They had to go forced to resign or dismissed ; their places were quietly filled 73 From Naboth's Vineyard by more complacent scribes, and the secret service was again victorious. Still the pitiless logic of fact remained obdurate ; shares fell and still fell, all values decreased to less than half what they had been before the war. The enemy, Truth, seemed to be drawing near the inner citadel itself. It was rumoured that men whose names in the financial world have been towers of strength for years, even they were said to be in monetary difficulties. Many stars of the first magnitude which had with- drawn their light from the southern hemi- sphere and fixed themselves in the northern constellations (those of Taurus and the Great Bear, for preference), resought the scenes of their earlier activities, and again appeared in Scorpio and Capricorn. But the worst blow had still to come. The much-vaunted cheap labour was following the old rule of South Africa it was proving itself to be dear labour, while it still retained all the character- istics of nastiness which had been so readily condoned in the days of its supposed economy. At this supreme moment chance or design 74 From Naboth's Vineyard threw a last straw to the prophets. The old Government resigned, new ministers came into office. The soothsayers were quick to catch their chance, and the cry of " Say it's the new boy," rang long and loud through all the various channels and press organs which were still theirs to command. Nothing more insolently untrue had ever been uttered before, even on that great mount of menda- ciousness, the corner-stone of Johannesburg. These things deceive few people in South Africa, but they are meant more for home consumption than for the Transvaal. It is a last attempt to confuse the issue, to delay the discovery. Before the war the game used to be called " forcing the hand of the Government." It has been tried once too often. It won't do this time. Government by bogey is now at a discount. The plan won many victories for the inner circle. They won on the war and on the peace, for they captured even the capturers. It is that long succession of success that makes the new position so galling. They who for twelve years have " run " South Africa as they pleased, and who for 75 From Naboth's Vineyard half that time have gone a long way towards running the Empire, now find themselves told to mind their own business. It is almost too much to bear. They are busy at the old devices. They have so many weapons in their armoury that they know not which to use. One moment they flag-wag, the next they threaten " to cut the painter," the next they open negotiations with Het Volk. Again it is an appeal to the victims of the war, who are adjured " to turn in their graves " rather than submit to so terrible a disaster as dictation at the hands of a Liberal Government in England. But it will not do. Philip was very drunk in the closing years of the nineteenth century and the early ones of the twentieth. He is sober now. He was drunk, poor fellow, as many a well-meaning man from Macedon to Monmouth has been drunk before, and many an honest fellow even in wider geographical limits will be drunk after him. But it is with those who made him drunk that we have to reckon ; they are with us still. The point of their argument (which might indeed be called the "Imperial pint") is ever the 76 From Naboth's Vineyard same. If Philip drinks that draught again, he will deserve his fate. I don't think the working-man of England will be deceived a second time ; he knows "Jew-burg," his corner-stone, better than his betters know it. Even if that multitudinous- chambered establishment were suddenly to start an anti-Chinese antechamber, it would not deceive the working-man. It is he who has the future of England in his hands. That is what gives the inner circle of the Rand its day dread and its nightmare. So long as it had only the good old Tory investor to deal with, the game was easy. The circle fed him with alternate booms and bogies, and while he was gravely loading his old flint gun at home under alternate halluci- nations of greed and fear, they in their agile Syrian way were hilariously unloading their paper shares and ventures upon him. The last great " flutter " occurred only a few months ago. It was called "Sallies." " Sallies " were eight or nine pounds a year since ; they are eight or nine shillings to-day. "Coronations" which four years back were ^"3000, are now at ^40. The gas is slowly 77 From Naboth's Vineyard getting out of the monstrous balloon, and when it is all out the government of the Rand will be easy enough. In the earlier nineties there was a " slump " in Johannesburg. A deputation from the Rand went to interview Oom Paul in Pre- toria ; they were received by the President. "Times were bad," they said. They had lost their money, and it was everybody's fault except theirs. The State must do something for them. The old man listened in silence, smoking. At last he took his pipe from his lips and spoke. "Gentlemen," he said, "you remind me of a pet monkey I had once. He was very fond of me ; he would never leave me alone. When anything happened that he did not like, he always ran to me. One winter's night he was at my feet by the fire. Monkeys never sit quiet for long, and he kept twisting himself round about until at last he got his tail into the fire. He did it himself. Gentlemen, I didn't even know he was doing it, but all the same he turned and bit me in the leg." That is still the game with the gentlemen 78 From Naboth's Vineyard of the inner circle. When anything goes wrong, they have a pleasant habit of biting the Government in the leg. This time it is Mr. Winston Churchill's leg to which they have particularly attached their teeth ; but they are equally ready to go for " the painter," which of course means the flag. When a boom is on, they wag it, drag it, and brag about it ; but when a slump threatens, or they burn their fingers in the Stock Exchange fire, they are quick to put their teeth into the " old painter." It is only a little way they have, and no one, not even the man with the bitten leg, need take it too seriously ; least of all need " the painter " mind it. JOHANNESBURG, March, 1906. 79 VII TO attempt an exhaustive treatise on the native question in South Africa in the limits of a letter would be absurd. One can only indicate its bound- aries, name its salient points, and try to show where its greatest difficulties lie. The native African has always been the Old World's chiefest puzzle. He has played the same part in the New World ; but it is on his own ground Africa that he and his question have reached almost insoluble pro- portions. The native is everywhere in South Africa. He is indigenous, strong, active. He can do scores of things which the white man cannot, or will not, do. He has all Africa behind him and all the future before him. He possesses qualities of courage, loyalty, power of discipline, honesty, and obedience which are not exceeded by any race of men in any part of the world. We are in the habit of speaking of him as 80 From Naboth's Vineyard though he formed a single stock from Table Mountain to the Equator. In reality he varies as much in character, and is as different in race, as the Laplander differs from the Spaniard. He watches, waits. He is still a child in many things, but he pos- sesses powers of comparison that are daily growing, and he is expanding that faculty of testing what he is told by what he sees which we call criticism. But perhaps the most remarkable thing about him is the fact that while we need him very much he does not need us ; he could do without us, and under the present con- ditions of life in South Africa nothing is more certain than that we could not do without him. If it be only remotely true that the withdrawal of 40,000 Chinese from the mines of the Witwatersrand would cause the industry of that region to collapse, what would happen if the 200,000 black men who are at work in Johannesburg in mines and other occupations were to leave their employments ? Roughly speaking, it would be correct to say that at least eighteen-twentieths of all 81 G From Naboth's Vineyard manual labour in South Africa is performed by black or coloured people. As we know labour in England, they are the only labourers. From infancy to age the white man has his labour done by the black "brother" (?). The white baby is rocked in the cradle or wheeled in the perambulator by a black. A native digs the dead man's grave. A coloured coachman drives the white bride and her white husband from the white man's church. It is absolutely and entirely true of this black man to say that he is equally at home in minding the baby or mining the mine. And yet we are constantly being told that the black man won't work. Tis a sermon which our white brethren are never tired of preaching. They were preaching it when I was here more than thirty years ago. They are at it still. Turning back the leaves into the time of that dead generation, I find this is what I then wrote about it at Kimberley : "Europe, Asia, Africa, America, and Aus- tralasia have all sent their representatives to Kimberley. The African delves in the mine, the representatives from the rest of the world 82 From Naboth's Vineyard buy, sell, and drink in the town." If Johan- nesburg be substituted for Kimberley the description will stand fairly well to-day. Indeed, a philosopher might possibly derive some comfort from the marked devotion to parental example which, in this respect at least, the present white generation shows to that which went before it. Despite Mr. Kipling's pessimism, we do not forget. Still there is a labour distinction in South Africa. The work of the carpenter, saddler, tailor, mason, is still largely at least done by white men, but that is because we have reserved these trades for ourselves. We are very chary about allowing our black brother to acquire knowledge of the crafts which would fit him to become an artisan. You will see in the hotel a white house- maid directing a black " boy " how to perform the bedroom duties for her. You will also see in every town a white carpenter or bricklayer having his tools or his bricks reverentially handed to him by his black assistant, who, if he had been taught, could do the work quite as well. The white artisan is getting seventeen shillings or a 83 From Naboth's Vineyard pound a day ; the black acolyte receives two shillings or less. Hence you will be able to trace some singular anomalies in this South African labour question. You will find, for instance, an effort to keep up or increase the cost of white labour, and a similar effort to keep down or decrease the cost of black labour. Every white man, of every degree, has an interest more or less active in reducing the black man's wage ; but he has not a similar interest in lessening the wage of his own caste. And, following this fact to its results, we reach the reason why the cost of living in South Africa is so high higher, indeed, than in any other part of the world I have been in. When you enter a native reserve the difference becomes at once apparent. The egg which is threepence or fourpence in the town is here a halfpenny. The fowl equally tough, unfortunately, in both places is eighty per cent, less in the kraal than in the capital. If South Africa had been a little India in the matter of the black man's pos- session of the land, his apprenticeship to trades, etc., and if the white man was an 84 From Naboth's Vineyard official or governing caste, the cost of living would be what it is in India. If, again, there had been no black labour in South Africa, the white immigrant would long ago have settled down to the conditions of work which obtain in all our other Colonies, and another New Zealand or Australia would have arisen here. To understand this black and white labour question we must go back a little. Seventy years ago South Africa was a slave country, both predial and domestic. The white races grew up in the idea that the sole duty of the black race was labour, and labour for the white man. When slavery was abolished this prevailing conception of the whole duty of the black man still lived on, and it still lives on in some shape or form. In the old- time conditions of life in the sub-continent there was no particular reason why the idea should assume formidable shape. Grape- growing, wine - pressing, or sheep-shearing were predial labours which did not call for labour on a large scale. Products and wages were alike small, and from 1840 to 1870 the conditions of life in the 85 From Nabobs Vineyard sub-continent were easily met in the matter of labour. Then a great change occurred. Minerals and precious stones began to be discovered. An immediate demand for labour arose. Wages increased. The natives longed for guns. The em- ployers found that the possession of a gun, with a little powder and ball, was a greater inducement to a Basuto or a Zulu to come to the mines than a mere rate of money wage would have been. So they at once offered guns in remuneration for labour. It was vastly cheaper too. A gun which cost ten shillings would be given to a black man in payment for a month's labour at a nominal rate of two or three pounds a month. It was good business for the white man "shent. per shent." twice over. If the governing authorities objected on the ground of danger to the State through the arming of the natives, their fears were allayed by the assurance quite truthfully given, I believe that the weapon was only danger- ous to its user. So the trade was not only permitted, but war was even threatened in its behalf. 86 From Naboth's Vineyard The Government of the Orange Free State of that time, wisely foreseeing what this trade in gun-running, as it was called, would lead to, attempted to stop the practice within their territory. They detained a consignment of firearms passing through the Free State. An ultimatum from the High Commissioner at Cape Town immediately followed. A fine of six hundred pounds was to be paid and an apology given, other- wise there was to be war. The little Free State paid the money and wrote the apology ; and for five or six years things went merrily at Kimberley. Then the crash came. It was war with the natives from the Kie River to the Pongola. The guns burst as it was said they would ; but all the same the assegai did much mischief, and Great Britain had to foot a little bill on account of Kaffir wars, which ran into over ten millions sterling. No matter who wins, the English taxpayer always pays. This cycle of Kaffir wars had only just ceased when gold was discovered on the Wit waters rand. The demand for native labour became greater than it had ever been. 3? From Naboth's Vineyard Good wages had to be offered in order to induce the "boys" to descend into these underground caverns. The black man loves the surface of the earth, and the sun and sky above it. But life was becoming harder to him day by day ; taxes had to be paid and clothes bought. When I first went to Natal in 1875, the order for putting the black man into trousers was a recent one. It was good for trade, and necessarily good for morality. A little later the interests of morality were further advanced by orders that the Zulu ladies were to wear blankets, and to wear them high a proviso, however, which may have been only a matter of averages, for about the same period it is to be noted that while the tide of blanket fashion was at shoulder height in Zululand, its counterpart in silk or velvet was not much above waist depth in Europe. But it has not always been in the cut of his clothes alone that we have shown our solicitude for the black man in matters of morality and labour. I have had in my hand the copy of a letter in which the state- ment was made that an expedition had been From Naboth's Vineyard sent against a friendly chief and tribe in Rhodesia, with orders to cut down the un- ripe crops of mealies and Kaffir corn, with the avowed object of obliging the " boys " to go into the mines. When I turn to the death-rate among the natives working two of those mines in 1899, I find that two hundred and forty " boys " died or were killed in two years out of an average of sixteen hundred at work. These are but straws. Nevertheless, they show the set of a current which has been steadily gaining strength and direction in the minds of many in South Africa the idea that what it is the fashion to call the inherent love of idleness in the black races should be cured or set right by measures of constructive coercion. If trousers-and- blanket legislation, increased taxes, the raising of hut rents, new grass lands, and licences fail to induce the natives to develop the mineral resources of South Africa for the benefit, in the first instance, of the capitalist, the European shareholder, and the mine managers then other means must be found to make them do it. This, scream 89 From Naboth's Vineyard at it as some people will, is the oft-spoken, sometimes written, and still more extensively held silent opinion of large numbers of people at the present moment in South Africa. Now it is essential to note that all these methods of constructive coercion are neither, in their later development at least, the work of Boers nor of the old-time British. They are mainly, if not entirely, the product of the over-sea immigrant, the Uitlander of the pre-war days, and the new- comer into South Africa. NATAL, April, 1906. 90 VIII IN what I have said so far about this native question I have dealt only with three distinct human factors "British, Boers, and Blacks." But there is a fourth factor hitherto unnamed, and one of enor- mous importance. I have run over in my mind many appellations by which this fourth factor might be designated, but it is not easy to find a fitting one. There is no par- ticular country no exclusive class or caste no religion and no ritual observance by which he could be entirely and adequately designated. But there is one name a new dictionary one, I believe which seems to fit him with entire exactitude. It is the name of Bounder. In a recent debate in the British Parliament a rather happy definition of two political parties was given by a Minister. He spoke about those who be- lieved it possible to stand on one leg in South African government, and those who From Naboth's Vineyard like himself preferred to rest the idea of civil and political administration upon two legs. It will be observed that in placing a fourth factor the Bounder in the political edifice, in addition to the three already enumerated British, Boers, and Blacks I am giving a still more substantial foundation, as well as a new designation, which I believe to be as apposite to reality as it is certainly alliterative. But there is one point which I would wish to make quite clear in connection with the name I have used to characterize this great "fourth estate" factor in the political life of South Africa. I attach to the name no social distinction whatever no particular rank, hierarchy, or order. I look into the dictionary and find " Bounder " thus defined : " A boisterous or overbearing per- son." That will do. I have known people of that description in every degree and pro- fession of life, and it exactly fits the particular point in the native question which I desire to press and to press with all seriousness and strength. The native African is essentially a subject, subject to the rule and law of his kraal, his 92 From Naboth's Vineyard chief, his king, but his chief and his king must have brain as well as blood. Here is an estimate of native character drawn by the hand of one who at this moment, and pro- bably since the death of that master of all native knowledge, the late Sir T. Shipstone, knows more about the black man than any person now living in South Africa Mr. William Grant : " Owing to the iron rule to which for centuries he (the native) has been subjected he is naturally law-abiding. He assents to and complies with the law under which he now lives. He pays willingly and peacefully all legal taxation. He provides for himself and family all necessary require- ments. He never solicits or receives charity at the hands of Europeans, and as concerns his debts, he never pleads the ' Statute of Limitations.' These at all events rank among some of the qualities which attach to the gratuitously abused native." And again the same hand writes : " The iron rule to which natives for centuries have been sub- jected has stamped in their mind obedience to law, and though in many cases the process has been inhuman and brutal, the results 93 From Naboth's Vineyard obtained are far too valuable to be lightly disregarded." Yet again : " An indispen- sable condition for the successful treatment of the natives is that the responsible heads of the several native departments should be men possessing the necessary qualifications to command their complete confidence, for only under such circumstances will natives accept the white man's guidance and direc- tion." These extracts could be multiplied indefinitely. The thing is the same as it is in India, in China, everywhere in the world where black and white come into relation- ship. It is a lesson so old that we are in danger of forgetting it. Thackeray preached it for us in fiction, for he knew it in fact, and when he drew Josh, or Joe, Sedley, and Colonel Newcome, he put the bounder and the anti-bounder into opposite panel portraits that will last for long. Which think you of the two men was it who won and kept India for us ? The Collector of Bogglywallah, or the old gentleman who died in the Charter House ? Here, then, is the source of our present trouble, and the fruitful seed of our coming 94 From Naboth's Vineyard trouble with the black man in South Africa. The Bounder is abroad what does he know or care about native character or native custom or native law? "Boisterous and overbearing," he rushes in where the older men of longer experience fear to tread. He has his own methods of solving every diffi- culty. It is at these times that you will hear him, as I have heard him, enunciate solutions in broken bits of thought such as the following : " Why not give 'em the measles ? They would run into the water then and die." Or this : "I'd like to see four-foot (sic) of snow over the whole country that would clear 'em out, that would." It would be quite a mistake to suppose that the tall, lanky individual who gave utterance to this last expression of desire for Siberian conditions of climate in South Africa was of an unnatural or diabolical disposition. I saw him a few minutes later taking leave of an aged mother with the greatest appearance of filial affection. A recent writer upon South Africa, who appears to have studied the land and its peoples with close attention, has said that 95 From Naboth's Vineyard among the numerous attractions to emi- grants which the newer Colonies present there was the somewhat unusual one of the possibility of becoming a Prime Minister. How magnificent would it have been had there been no black or subject races to deal with ! But alas ! all the difference comes in there. If you cannot minister to the dis- eased mind of a white man, it is no less certain that you cannot " Prime Minister " on such terms to the healthy body of a black man. He will fight first. He will not die out before the incoming Bounder. He persists in increasing. Nature comes to his aid, and Africa. Emerson knew it all. His seer-sight saw it sixty years ago saw it, perhaps, because it was in his country that the true Bounder was born, even if he was bred on some other less expansive soil. This is what he wrote about it : " Nothing is more marked than the power by which individuals are guarded from individuals in a world where every benefactor becomes so easily a malefactor only by continuation of his activity into places where it is not due." 96 From Naboth's Vineyard Certainly Nature has had many ways of limiting the Bounder's "activity" in Africa. She thins him out by his weaknesses and her own strength. For the last twenty years events have been pouring the Bounder into South Africa. The mines and the wars that arose through them have left strange after- maths behind them. Arnold said that Asia bowed her head as the Western waves swept over her, and raised it again when they had passed. But Africa goes one better. She does not bow her head. There was a doctor on board the ship I came from England in, and he had a strange theory about mos- quitoes and the spread of malarial fever. The mosquito, he said, was harmless or uninoculated until it had first bitten a black baby ; it then became malarially affected the mosquito, not the baby. The mos- quito next bites a white man ; he gets fever "black water," it is called and dies. That is the whole process. Is this, then, the great secret of the sphinx which Africa has kept hidden for thousands of years ? She or the mosquito has wiped out or absorbed successive waves of Uitlanders 97 H From Naboth's Vineyard one after the other Assyrian, Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman, Turk. Only those races which became African have continued. Asian Mohammedanism battered at the Eastern Empire and at Constantinople for eight hundred years before it took it ; but when Asian Islam reinforced itself with Moor and Berber blood, it overran the best part of Western Europe in a century. Stranger "even is it what this Africa did for that northern race from the Vistula or the Volga which we call Vandals. They who skirted along the frontiers of the Roman Empire for a hundred and more years, cast- ing sidelong looks towards the great city, got at last into Africa, and within the limits of a lifetime they took Rome by the throat and carried her plunder of a thousand years back with them to Carthage. How quickly the three hundred bishoprics of Augustine's age disappear from Africa never to rise again ! And to think that it was the black baby and this little swamp-gnat that did it all ! I once came upon an odd volume of Cole- ridge's poems in a far-away Hudson's Bay 98 From Naboth's Vineyard post in North America. It was a season when mosquitoes were unusually active. I turned to an ode, an invocation to the mos- quitoes. It began with the words, " Sweet insect." I closed the book in the belief that the poet had entirely mistaken the pest. But now ? Did he not know all about the mosquito even as he knew all about the albatross ? " Out of the mouths of babes and sucklings!" If this Bulawayo doctor is right, then the babe and the suckling for surely the mosquito is a suckling are doing giants' work in Africa. They will either slay or Africanize the Bounder. Thus far I had written when I received a letter from one of the Natal Ministers a gentleman to whom I am personally in- debted for assistance kindly rendered in the matter of a recent visit to Zululand. There is a paragraph in the letter which is of so much interest at the present moment that I take the liberty of quoting it here : " I think the Zulus are behaving very well in the present trouble. ... It seems to me a thousand pities that such a splendid race as the Zulus ever came into contact with 99 From Naboth's Vineyard civilization at all." Until I met that Rho- desian doctor my sympathies would have run with those of the Natal Minister, but now " civilization " claims a tear, and presently we may find ourselves saying, " Even though we knew thee well Alas ! poor Bounder ! " BLOEMFONTEIN, April) 1906. IOO IX WHEN you have to put before people at a distance some complex poli- tical position such as that which now exists in the Transvaal, it is not a bad plan to take the position to them instead of attempting to bring them to the position. With this object I propose to make England our Transvaal, and the city of Birmingham our Johannesburg. We will, then, try to reproduce on an English stage thus created a counterpart of the conditions of economic, social, and political life as they exist to-day in that part of South Africa. The many profound and conflicting questions which lie hidden beneath the apparently simple formula of " One vote one value " may then be more easily understood by people in England. We will first deal with our new Birming- ham, dressed as Johannesburg. Then we shall survey England attired, contrived, and circumstanced as the Transvaal, and, finally, 101 From Naboth's Vineyard we shall apply to the people who dwell in Birmingham and those who inhabit England the panacea of " One vote one value," which is now proposed as the sole solution of all trouble, and the only guarantee for future peace and happiness in the Transvaal. In Birmingham there is one industry. It is the production of a very valuable gas from a rock which up to the present time has been discovered only in Birmingham and its immediate vicinity. This gas, when produced, is taken immediately to New York, whence it is sent to most of the great cities of the outer world. The actual part of this precious product which Birming- ham retains is nil, the gas itself being all sent away in sealed and guarded vessels. But the equivalent of a certain portion of the value of the exported gas comes back to Birmingham, and in a lesser degree to England, in the form of wages paid to the miners who hammer out rock from which the gas is obtained, and to the men who transmute the rock into gas ; and a further portion of the equivalent also returns in the shape of money spent in banks, offices, 102 From Naboth's Vineyard shops, hotels, drinking-saloons, at racecourses and other places of amusement, as well as in the food which goes to support the managers, miners, engineers, firemen, stokers who are engaged directly or indirectly in this gas business. Now, the first thing to note is that the people who are engaged in the production of gas in Birmingham are not Englishmen. They are Irish, Scotch, American, French, Peruvians. England itself is represented in Birmingham by a small and insignificant minority, but outside this great gas city, even in Warwickshire and all over the land from Cumberland to Cornwall, the sons of the soil, the people of England, form a large majority of the residential population. And the next thing which is of importance to note is that the difference existing be- tween the inhabitants of Birmingham and the people of England is not confined to difference of race or nation. It is still more acute and complex. There is what might be called a domestic difference be- tween the single city and the immense outside country. The English in England 103 From Naboth's Vineyard are all family people married people with sons and daughters, home people with cradles and churches and graveyards and the rest of it. While the Birmingham people, who have come from America, Paris, or Peru for this specific gas business they are mostly young men who have either no wives, or, if they possess wives, have for the most part left them over-sea, and have come here as single men. The conditions of life in Birmingham are not congenial to family well-being, and this manufacture of gas has, so far, at least, not been found to conduce to the domestic virtues in any high degree. Neither is life in Birmingham of a permanent nature. It is unusually transitory. It is the life of the hotel, of the boarding-house, of the club, and the taproom. There is much of the swallow about it, and ' Here to-day, gone to-morrow " would be a suitable motto for it ; it would be true to say that a residence of three or four years in Birmingham would, in the majority of cases, be equivalent to one of thirty or forty years elsewhere in England. Nor are the moral differences 104 From Naboth's Vineyard between town and country life less striking when we examine them. The gas business is intensely self-centred, exciting, restless even to fever-pitch, grasping and aggressive. It is always spinning round itself until it becomes inebriated with the exercise. It seems unable to remain long alone, even with its own wealth. Have you ever noticed what an overfed and too-much-indulged house- dog will do if he is shut up in a room by himself? He gets up, howls, and scratches at the door-panel, or begins to bite a window-frame. That is not unlike the way Birmingham goes on. This gas production generates other gases, and they in turn produce new intoxicants, mental and physical. There is the Stock Exchange, a porphyry-pillared edifice, where gas inflation was until recently carried on to an inconceivable extent. Its foundation- stone was laid with great ceremony by a late High Inca from Peru, but so far it has not fulfilled the glowing anticipations which were entertained of it, and it has signally failed up to the present in extracting the same quantity of gold from the pockets 105 From Naboth's Vineyard of the inhabitants of Peru as its predecessor, a much humbler and less pretentious edifice, succeeded in doing in the olden time. It is almost harrowing to hear the lamentations of the old habitues of this grand edifice as they compare the booming days of yore with the present sad and degenerate times. * Then, if you bought in the morning and sold in the evening you were rich," one of them remarked to me. "It (Birming- ham) is only becoming a big Chinese compound, worked by a few foreigners," said another ; and a third gentleman of the institution, who had kindly volunteered to conduct me to the summit of the Corner House, whence an extensive view of Bir- mingham and its suburbs was visible and to whom I apologized for taking him tem- porarily from his business replied, " Don't say anything about it. There is nothing doing ; not a stroke all day." On the other hand, the general state of excitement in which Birmingham usually lived did not appear to have suffered from this collapse of jts Stock Exchange. The stamps by which the gas is extracted from 1 06 From Naboth's Vineyard the rock seemed to be going day and night. Horse-racing was of constant occurrence. The grand stand was always well filled, horses seemed to be continually going round, the furnaces were always sending forth volumes of black smoke, and if you hap- pened to wake at night you heard the thud of the town as though it had been day. I once inquired of a man how it came about that the theatres in Birmingham were so well filled. " You see," he said, " this is the way of it. Take a young fellow a ' remittance man,' or a chap who has only twelve bob in the world he'll put ten of it into a stall to see Lizzie Giggles, and he'll give the other two for a whisky-and-soda." " And who are the persons whom you call * remittance men ? ' " I inquired. " They are young men from North and South America," he replied, " whose parents and guardians think Birmingham a good place to send them to. It keeps them out of harm's way in New York or Lima, and while they are waiting for a job their people send them money every month that's why they're called ' remittance men. ' 107 From Naboth's Vineyard You might, perhaps, imagine from these glimpses of life in Birmingham that exist- ence was a pleasant one there. Eighty per cent, of the population are men, and another eighty per cent, of these men bachelors. Things must be quite lively with all this gas production racing, betting, theatre-going, and the like. Lively, no doubt, things are. The statistics furnished by the police authorities show great vivacity of life. In the six months, from January to July, 1905, ten thousand persons received sentences for various crimes committed in Birmingham ; eighteen murders were re- ported, and there were more than seven hundred cases of robbery and housebreak- ing in the same short period. And this record of vivacious living has been achieved in Birmingham under its new dispensation, when it had got completely rid of its old English government, expelled its British municipality, and constituted itself entirely on the new Peruvian model, specially intro- duced by the High Inca of that nation. Personally, I remember visiting Birmingham in its old dull (British days, when a single 1 08 From Naboth's Vineyard murder sufficed to bring war between Peru and England within measurable distance, and when the temporary disappearance of one lady, whose ''crown of wild olives" sat uneasily upon her head was made the sub- ject of Blue-book recrimination for nearly a year. As my readers may have anticipated, from the few details of life given above, the in- habitants of Birmingham do not manifest any strong desire to make their stay in that city longer than they can help. Their great effort is to get as much gas out of the rock as they possibly can in the shortest term of time, and then to be off bag and baggage to Peru, leaving Birmingham, or the ash and cinder heaps which will finally represent the city, to the occupation of the people of England. But in the contemplation of Birmingham under the Peruvians we have almost lost sight of the English in England. Let us turn to them. You will bear in mind that these English people are almost exclusively "old timers" on the land. Their old home- steads are no longer there, because in the 109 From Naboth's Vineyard war which Peru waged against England for the possession of Birmingham, the armies of the Inca of that time burned down all the homesteads of the English, and so devas- tated their farms and houses that, to use the words of one of the Peruvian officers who went through the war, "there was not a window-frame, or a door-post, or a bit of carpenter's worked wood left in the whole eastern half of" England. But in the few years that have elapsed since that war was concluded the houses have been rebuilt in some shanty fashion or other, and the owners, or those who survived the war, are back again on the old sites, and at all events the graves of the people's ancestors are still there, and the outlines of the hills are the same as they used to be, and the sun shines on the home as it did of old. Cradles, too, are to be seen in the rebuilt shanty-houses, and the downs are showing sheep on them, and you may even see some cattle again browsing in the valleys of the Thames or the Severn. Well, as we have said, while eighty per cent, of the Peruvians in Birmingham were no From Naboth's Vineyard single men, so eighty per cent, of the Eng- lishmen in England are married, and they, with their wives and children, mean to live and die on the land. Their home is here in England, and they have no Peru to go back to when their " pile " is made indeed, the only pile that many of them will ever gather will be a pile of stones for their graves. Well, now, having carried our transported Transvaal conditions of life to England, let us go a step farther and put down upon the two peoples, whose objects, habits, out- looks, hopes, and aspirations we have thus described, this great constitutional principle of " One vote one value," which we are told is to mark an entirely even and just balance of power between English and Dutch in the Transvaal. Where does the even justice come in ? Is the bird of passage, the swallow, which does not even build a tem- porary mud nest in his attic at Birmingham, to have the same power of saying what is to be done with all this immense England as the man who has dwelt here from the beginning, and will dwell here to the end of his life? Is the new-comer, who has no in From Naboth's Vineyard family cares, and cares for no family ties, who is intent on the most rapid acquisition of money, who would if he could draw the last cubic foot of gas out of the rock in a week, and be gone the week after is he to have, not, indeed, an equal share in the Government, but an enormously prepon- derating share of it ? For observe, this shibboleth of " One vote one value " is quite as misleading as any other of the innumer- able catch words which have been coined in the Birmingham mint and cast out by the Caucus House during the past fifteen or twenty years. It is not to give one value to every vote at which they aim ; it is to make the one vote of the Birmingham Peruvian equal to three votes of the English over the rest of England. That is the plain, unvarnished truth. CAPE COLONY, April, 1906. 112 X WE have been told that the vote of the newcomers into the Trans- vaal will be the vote of intelli- gence, of probity, of progress, of education, and of all those principles of justice between man and man which are the watchwords of English life. But is it English life as we know it in England that exists on the Wit- watersrand ? Outside the language and the racing there is little in common between the two countries. This single "industry" has called to life a great network of un- English methods espionage, a vast secret service, a mysterious machinery for " roping in " a neutral or " freezing out " an opponent. There are newspapers, but they are only permitted to teach one side of the question. There are bookstalls and news agencies, but you will find it difficult to obtain a Liberal journal at them, although you will be plentifully accommodated with every 113 i From Naboth's Vineyard racecourse rag or scavenger sheet in the empire. There is an element of duality in the life of Johannesburg which is altogether peculiar to itself. There are, I think, about a hundred and eighty-four gold - mining companies on the Witwatersrand, of which less than a third, I believe, pay any dividend. You will find on the list of the directors of these companies the same name appearing and reappearing over and over again. A single name will be repeated eight and twenty times on the directorate lists. People in England know nothing of these duplica- tions, nor of the company meetings which roll off one after the other at intervals of from five to fifteen minutes like trains at an underground railway station. It all looks so big, so imposing, at a distance, so "spacious " like "the times of Great Elizabeth"; but follow it to its source, and you find a gentle- man of Assyrian shrewdness and Teutonic training in the centre coil of the supposed colossal combination. The actor on the stage of a variety theatre, who represents a dozen different characters in as many 114 From Naboth's Vineyard minutes, has scarcely a more varied person- ality programme than a director of gold mines in Johannesburg, to whom Chambers of Commerce, innumerable associations, leagues, organizations and societies offer almost endless opportunities of self-duplica- tion. Scarcely less surprising is it to trace the thread of supposed intellectualism upon which so much stress has been laid to follow back into their early environments these would-be political guides, of whom it is said that they are alone fitted by mental superiority and gifts of education to be the leaders of a new people along the difficult paths of constitutional experiment. I ask, In what colleges did these men pursue their study of the principles of parliamentary government? In what universities did they graduate ? Who were the illustrious teachers with whom they communed ? I endeavour to lead conversation into channels which may give me information upon those points. I ask questions of old timers at Kimberley, or of some pioneers on the Rand, and I am told in reply that so-and-so sold ice-creams "5 From Naboth's Vineyard and cakes at Kimberley in the early seventies ; that another so-and-so was said to have been engaged in the fried-fish business in the Old Kent Road before he came to Johannesburg in the late eighties ; or, that a yet older so-and-so spent his early years in disposing of waistcoats from a hand- cart in the East- End of London at a still more remote period. I beg my readers not to think that I entertain any prejudice whatever against any of the avocations named ; but partiality for an ice-cream, a fried sole, and a warm waist- coat in winter does not carry me to the length of endowing early vendors of these useful condiments and garments with any special aptitude for the ruling of men, or right of birth, by which wise statesman- ship in the government of South African communities can be secured. The main diversities between the interests of the two sections merge off into more subtle shades of differences than any I have specified. But there is this characteristic feature about all, and it is that while to one side that of the mines all these differences are and 116 From Naboth's Vineyard must be of little moment, to the other side that of the country they may be of the deepest moment. What the Transvaal wants in its true and lasting interest is a sure and steady develop- ment of its mineral wealth. It does not need a rapid, still less a feverish, output of its gold, any more than it needs a deluge of water in a single night. It requires a development of what is beneath its ground of such a sort as will enable its surface development to keep pace with it, to extend its agriculture, to increase its irrigation, to expand its forestry, to multiply its stock. You cannot hurry the seasons. No matter what laws you pass, the equinoxes will not come more quickly. The development of the surface of the Transvaal requires the lapse of time, aided and nourished by the wealth that lies below the surface. But the mines ? Are they on the same plane of development? It is easy to conceive economic situations which are directly op- posed to this idea, situations which may tempt to the most rapid and exhaustive developments. The more you over-capitalize, 117 From Naboth's Vineyard the more you inflate share values in the Stock Exchange and you have been doing both for twenty years the greater will be the effort at fevered development, all tend- ing to the exhaustion of the mines and the ultimate ruin of the Transvaal. It is the difference between the gamekeeper and the gamester. One does not want all the game killed the next year and the subsequent years have to be thought of but the other ? He wants it over in a night. He will double, and again double, and then quit. The land may whistle in the wind for all he cares he is off. Yet another point the native question that one of vital importance. A native war on any large scale would be disastrous to aoriculture in South Africa. How would it o affect the mines ? It is by no means certain that it would not benefit them. It was by such wars that Rome recruited her slaves for service in the mines of the Iberian Peninsula. Fifteen hundred years later Spain filled her mines in Mexico and Peru from the same source. It is not quite thirty years ago since harbour and dock works 118 From Naboth's Vineyard in South Africa were being worked by prisoners taken in Kaffir wars, and if even such things could not occur again a fact of which I am doubtful it does not follow that the state of abject penury which a native war would inflict upon tens of thousands of blacks, would not oblige some of these tens of thousands to seek the mines in order to save themselves and their people from starvation. For myself I prefer to go back to the study of the old masters in all these matters. Wonderful is it to reopen the old books and to find how many were the things these men knew about Kimberley and Johannesburg long years before either place had been heard of knew the lives that the people would lead there, the things they would say and do ; foretold the very thoughts that would fill their brains, and even the tissues that would form their bodies. Here is one little bit about Johannesburg : " A terrible machine has possessed itself of the ground, the air, the men and women, and hardly even thought is free." And here is a sen- tence which many of the people who control 119 From Naboth's Vineyard the " Industries " of South Africa might learn and lay to heart, and many another, too : " See what allowance vice finds in the respectable and well-conditioned class. If a pickpocket intrude into the society of gen- tlemen they exert what moral force they have, and he finds himself uncomfortable and glad to get away. But if an adventurer go through all the forms, procure himself to be elected to a post of trust, as of senator or president, though by the same arts as we detest in the house-thief, the same gentlemen who agree to discountenance the private rogue will be forward to show civilities and marks of respect to the public one, and no amount of evidence of his crimes will prevent them giving him ovations, complimentary dinners, opening their own houses to him, and priding themselves on his acquaintance." Nor does the following passage seem out of date when applied to some of our latter-day patriots and heroes : "The reputations of the nineteenth century will one day be quoted to prove its barbarism." And did not a certain great thinker see something like a Chinese compound in Johannesburg 1 20 From Naboth's Vineyard when he penned the following : "In , in addition to the ordinary abominations of slavery, it appears only men are bought for the plantations, and of these miserable bachelors one dies in ten every year " ? The italics are not in the original, and neither is it South Africa about which the philosopher was writing, but these thoughts have the eternity of truth in them that they are as " claims " pegged out for ever on the con- science of the world. And meanwhile I hear the question asked, What, then, should be done in the matter of this Transvaal constitution ? I will endeavour to answer it in as few words as possible. Turn your constitutional scales any way you like, they will always come back to a level swing. It may take years to do it costly and terrible years but it will come back. You can separate Johannesburg from the remainder of the Transvaal, make it an independent unit in a group of other independent colonies, giving it any rights and privileges in reason, and then let it work out its own destiny as it pleases. This is a possible solution (and it is one which I think 121 From Naboth's Vineyard was first formulated by Mr. Chamberlain some seven or eight years ago) ; but attempt to mix it with the remainder of the Transvaal in a cunningly devised and dishonestly stated scheme of what is called " one vote one value," as that idea is at present planned and understood, and you will fail, just as surely as every other scheme which has been conceived in injustice and formulated in pre- tence, has already failed in South Africa. And there seems to me to be another course, easier, safer, and less liable to the experimental and unknown. It is so to measure and distribute your electoral areas that while in a House of sixty representa- tives the two great parties will have some- thing like even numbers, there will be at least a likelihood of from six to twelve seats falling to a third or moderate party. These would hold the beam of the balance and give o the ship of state a better chance of sailing, with some degree of safety and success, through the early part of its voyage. I do not believe that the Boers would even wish for a clear and definite majority at this stage of their political life. But they 122 From Naboth's Vineyard are living under a great dread namely, that they will be handed over to the rule of the magnates of a single class and colour. They have had even ampler reason in the past than the ordinary outside world is aware of to dread this faction. It has pursued them with a hounding hate through their history. The men who are foremost in this party the edge of whose animosity seems ever to be on the grinding-stone came among them for the most part as needy adventurers, some of them in outcast penury. They are now of great wealth. Even when they had plotted and contrived the destruc- tion of the Government under which they had accumulated these riches, their punish- ment at the hands of the enemies they had gratuitously made was a nominal one. Whence comes this unrelenting animosity ? Was Balzac beholding it when he wrote, " There is nothing so terrible as the ven- geance of the shopkeeper " ? But vengeance for what ? CAPE TOWN, 2nd May, 1906. 123 XI IF books could have cured South Africa or even alleviated the worst symptoms of the troubles which seem to have become chronic in her system, all would long ago have been well with her. Happy is said to be the land which has no history, and happier would seem to be the country about which people do not write anything. A book resembles a prescription, only penned when there is illness about. Some- thing of the nature of our Distinguished Service Order, a decoration of which a late illustrious statesman observed, when in- formed that his son had got it, " Ah ! poor boy. I heard there was a lot of it about. But he'll get over it he has a sound con- stitution." As to South Africa, books have been piled on books in endless variety, and still the troubles remain. New doctors prescribe new nostrums, and these in turn seem only to generate new distempers. As 124 From Naboth's Vineyard the tropical portion of the Continent has been known as the white man's grave almost since the time of Columbus, so the temperate zone of the southern region has persistently proved itself a great cemetery, in which the reputations of successive states- men and commanders have been entombed. The native trouble which has lately appeared in Natal is of very old standing. Its causes are only difficult to discover because of the multiplicity of the reasons assigned, and of the various side currents which influence the direction of the main stream. I find the following entry in an old notebook kept in Natal more than thirty years ago : " The night before I left London I met a gentleman who had lived for many years in Natal. ' You are going to Natal,' he said. * Well, you will meet a man there who will tell you that all the evil in the country is caused by one thing. Five minutes later you will meet another man who will give you a totally different reason. Take my advice hear everything and judge for yourself.' ' Recently I visited Natal for the fourth time 125 From Naboth's Vineyard in my life. I had met on the ship that brought me from England one of Natal's ablest Ministers, and he had most kindly made the journey easy and pleasant to me. The Colony was in a state of great ex- citement. A telegraphic despatch had just been received from the Colonial Office at home asking information regarding a pro- posed execution under martial law of twelve natives, who had been tried by a court com- posed of Militia officers, for the murder of a police officer and a constable, and direct- ing that the execution should be suspended pending, as it would appear, the receipt of this information. The facts of the case were these. Resistance had been made by a party of natives armed with assegais to a patrol of mounted police sent to arrest men who had refused or delayed to pay a poll tax recently imposed by the Legisla- ture. A couple of natives had been arrested and handcuffed. A rescue was successfully attempted. Shots were fired by the police, assegais were thrown by the natives. Some four or five men, white and black, were killed or wounded, including the officer and 126 From Naboth's Vineyard constable. The affray took place at dusk Rain was falling. There had been a general scuffle, and the precise details of what hap- pened are obscure, but it is admitted, so far as I have seen, that the first shot was fired by the police, and that a general mttee had then ensued. In consequence of this, martial law was immediately proclaimed in Natal. Native kraals were burnt by punitive expeditions, crops were destroyed, cattle were seized over considerable districts, and two natives were summarily shot by drum-head court- martial. Twelve other men were to be executed at forty-eight hours' notice given by telegram to the Imperial Government at home. It was under these conditions that the Secretary of State had cabled to suspend the executions, and to ask for some further information as to the crimes and the trial of these condemned men. Thereupon Natal flew out. The Ministry resigned. Indignation meetings were held, and the action of the Home Government was denounced from one end of the Colony to the other. One man a gentleman whose 127 From Naboth's Vineyard name deserves to live had the courage to stand up in the largest of these indigna- tion meetings and to protest against the action taken by the Natal Government. There had been no necessity or occasion for martial law, he said, and even if cir- cumstances had warranted the departure from civil law, he pointed out that the offences for which the twelve men were condemned had been committed prior to the proclamation. Further, he laid stress upon the fact that the civil tribunals were all in being, that the King's writ still ran, and that there was no state of war in the Colony to justify this resort to extreme measures. He might better have talked to the winds. But though Mr. Morcom stood alone on the platform of protest, he was not the only person who held similar opinions regarding these sanguinary pro- ceedings. Many men of the older order were with him. Natal, however, does not listen to its older heads. Other voices are in an ascendant there, perhaps more than elsewhere in South Africa. The Colony was always remarkable for the possession 128 From Naboth's Vineyard of a very advanced school of public orators. Even in the old times it was sometimes wont to fly into a rage on slight provoca- tion, and a second generation begotten under the semi-tropic conditions of the larger portion of the Colony is not likely to be more cool of head or less warm of language than were its old and cold world fathers. Even these old fathers could, in some in- stances at least, talk big enough. Thirty years ago, when Natal had a white popula- tion of seventeen thousand souls, I remember one of its most prominent politicians inform- ing his constituents that the Government of Great Britain " was a remote and incon- siderate faction, who were heedless of the lives and properties of the Colonists." It was, if I do not mistake, the Govern- ment of Mr. Disraeli and Lord Salisbury which was thus described. The reigning sovereign of that day was alluded to as "a distant potentate." The small garrison then stationed in Natal was said to be main- tained, " not for the protection of the white people, but for their control and subjection ; " while, again, the weakness of this force was 129 K From Naboth's Vineyard cited as proof of the " callous ineptitude of the Home Government, which ought to send to the capital city of Pietermaritzburg a force eight times the strength of the existing garrison, in order to secure to the Colony the blessings of peace, security, and prosperity." And all this remarkable flow of rhetoric, and much more of it, was poured forth merely because Lord Carnarvon, the Colonial Minister, had ventured to ques- tion some high-handed acts of the Natal Executive of that time ; and a bishop of the English Church, whose name was celebrated in his lifetime, and is now associated with the scene of the most memorable defeat sustained in our history for a hundred and fifty years, had raised his voice in protest against these proceedings. It may be of interest to recall out of that time a few notes then written upon the question of bestowing responsible govern- ment upon the Colony of Natal: "To reproduce here (in Natal) the form of government under which England thrives, it is essential that there should be an ample supply of able men whose social position 130 From Naboth's Vineyard will place them above the suspicion of interested motives, and whose private means will allow them to devote their lives to the service of the country. Natal does not as yet possess men of sufficient means so cir- cumstanced as to enable a Government to be carried on in a safe and satisfactory manner, and neither can the small body of able men now here be expected to form such dispassionate opinions as Ministers at home. As we find in the religious world the smaller bodies are more prone to ex- cessive outbursts of sectarian zeal and more bitter in their warfare of words, so in the political arena we observe small communi- ties indulging themselves more frequently in minute animosities, the perception of which would be lost in broader boundaries, and we obtain evidence of legislation on statements of opinion which are unchecked by more sober thought or wider experience." And then I come upon this bit about the native question : " Immigration of Zulus from Zululand into Natal will be unneces- sary if Kaffirs (in Natal) are placed upon a proper footing (i.e., on the land)." I From Naboth's Vineyard venture to give these old-time extracts, not so much for the purpose of making time my justifier as to show old Natal that I do not now plunge into the discussion of her troubles or her politics on the sole warranty of a globe-trotter's return ticket. Old Natal and I were young together. I have always had for her a kind of second home affection. Her lowlands and her highlands, her winter snow-capped Drakensberg, her deep kloofs and sparkling waterfalls, the magic of her sunrises and sunsets these, and the memory of friends, most of whom are gone to their rest, have made Natal a green spot in my memory. But as I was not blind to certain pecu- liarities which seemed to mark her collective character a generation ago, I cannot be oblivious of them to - day. They have neither disappeared nor lessened. It is rather the other way. Whatever riches Natal may have won she owes them chiefly to adventitious aids and outside circum- stances. Let us look at |her again as she was thirty years ago before we speak of her as she stands to-day. " There is much to 132 From Naboth's Vineyard excuse the possessors of this land if in the very richness of their possession they should at times become fretful over the slow develop- ment of the earthly paradise where they dwell. It is so fair and fruitful that they may well ask why it does not thrive, and they may easily ascribe to causes other than the right one the fact of their ill-fortune ; yet the true reason is simple enough. The critic who said of Natal that it was only a land of samples missed the point of his own truth. To change a sample into a crop, to make a crop a staple commodity, to export to foreign shores the surplus productions of the soil, these are only progressive steps in the prosperity of a nation. But this ultimate result can only be reached through the same conditions of industry and energy which in other lands, and under less favoured climates, turns the product of the soil into the wealth of a civilized community. There is no Royal road to the prosperity of a people, be their country ever so rich or highly favoured. As our forefathers toiled to unlock the riches of the soil, and as they passed through succes- sive stages of development on their road to 133 From Naboth's Vineyard prosperity, so must their sons labour in their new homes ere they arrive at national wealth and greatness. The cry from one end of the Colony to the other is that * No one will work the Kaffirs won't work, the whites won't work.' Meanwhile, Natal stagnates. And yet this cry is only half the question. That Providence helps the man who helps himself is as old as it is true ; but in Natal the help is sought abroad and forgotten at home. To ride on horseback over the country, to eat well, drink well, race well, and do little or nothing else such are the everyday customs of the land. It was not in this fashion that the homeland prospered or that the new States of the Western World have risen to wealth and power." Here we seem to be at the source of the stream of trouble, by the mid -course of which we stand to-day. Natal preferred her own methods. Fenced in between a great mountain range on the west, the Indian Ocean on the east, and with native territories on her northern and southern frontiers, she elected to go as she had gone in all matters of life and labour. She brought in the Zulu 134 From Naboth's Vineyard and the Kaffir from north and south, and imported the Indian indentured coolie from over the sea. She kept her territory locked in great aggregations of land which were wrongly called " farms." The owners of these vast expanses induced Kaffirs to build their kraals and become tenants thereon. At first the rent charged was a mere nominal sum. The huts were of the rudest description, beehive structures of reeds and grass. As time went on the rents grew. Decade by decade they rose from ten shillings or a pound per annum to many times these figures. At the present moment Natal has about half a million natives living on lands owned by men who are called farmers, but whose wealth is chiefly derived in the majority of cases from the rents which they levy upon these Kaffirs. Considerable num. bers of these landlords are absentees. In addition to the rents paid for their beehive huts the natives are taxed by Government fourteen shillings a year hut tax. They have also to give labour to their lords at low rates of remuneration. They pay for dog licences, fees to magistrates' clerks, and 135 From Naboth's Vineyard are, of course, subject to fines for offences against law. These offences include the collective drinking of beer in the huts or kraals. When a fine is imposed the money or the cow is not always at hand to pay it, but there is sure to be a local "gombeen man" a village Shylock ready to advance the required amount ; and I have been told on the best authority that the mulct man will be fortunate if by the time he has re- deemed his bond he has not paid his fine twice and even three times over. It is the Ireland of the eighteenth and O and early nineteenth centuries over again, with black men substituted for white and the blunderbuss absent. Now the point to bear in mind in con- nexion with all this is that these black people in Natal have no representation in Parliament. If they should object to the rents which are put upon their reed huts, the answer is, " You can go." But that is just what they can't do. There is now no place for them to go to. Besides, the Zulu is not nomadic ; he is very fond of his home. It would be wrong to say that the natives 136 From Naboth's Vineyard have no friends in Natal. They have many true friends, many kind masters and magis- trates, but the tide of public opinion is against them, and the form of Government which has been so oddly called " respon- sible," is not and cannot be as direct, or as " favourable in the mind of its ruling," as that which was identified to the native imagina- tion with the names of "Somtseu" (Sir Theophilus Shepstone) or that of "Sobantu" (Bishop Colenso). In the old time they had men to rule and advise them, whose sym- pathy and good-will they felt assured was theirs, and to whom they looked with perfect confidence and trust. Colenso's love for the native races was one of those superb devo- tions to the ideal which all good men admire, and it was an ideal for which he would willingly have laid down his life. Now there is no one to be their friend in the sense that these great men were friendly to them. I see that the working-men of England are their friends, but when the individual working-man comes to South Africa, the feeling can scarcely stand the strain that environment puts upon it. Still, 137 From Naboth's Vineyard taken as a whole, the attitude of the white working-man towards the native is not a bad one. It is a long way superior to that of the loud and boisterous man of whom I spoke in a recent letter. CAPE TOWN, May, 1906. 138 XII AMONG all the evidence taken before the Commission on Native Affairs," said the foremost authority upon native questions now in South Africa, " I am sorry to say that the latest importations from home were the least in sympathy with the natives." This opinion I have found corroborated wherever I came into contact with the individuals who were in closest touch with the black man, or were best acquainted with his ways and history. There is no room for doubting that the man who knows the Kaffir best likes him the best. The man who has the smallest knowledge of him has the largest measure of contempt or dislike for him. And it was the same thing in North America when I travelled there many years ago. The new-comer into the land was the Red Indian's worst enemy. That there is to-day unrest and discontent 139 From Naboth's Vineyard among a large number of the native races outside the Cape Colony there can be no doubt, but there are reasons for it. It could not have been otherwise. Many causes of native discontent lie on the surface, others are deep down in their hearts. Democracies have not yet succeeded in ruling subject races. We have broken faith with the black man. It was Mary Kingsley who wrote that ' ' when you once get between two races, the feeling of treachery, the face of their relationship, is altered for ever altered in a way that no wholesome war or no brutality of individuals can alter." These are weighty words. We have waged very unwholesome wars with the natives, and there have been terrible acts of barbarity and brutality per- petrated against natives in these wars, but it is doubtful if they have had the effect upon the native mind that what are supposed to be more legitimate pursuits of covetous accomplishment have produced. In all parts of the sub-continent, and by all persons, you will be told the same story of the demorali- zation of the natives by the late war. The details differ, but the effect is the same. In 140 From Naboth's Vineyard Northern Natal men will tell you of the fortunes made by certain master cattle- raiders who employed natives to loot cattle from the Boers. The master-raider made his tens of thousands, the white captains of the industry their hundreds, the black battalions got nothing. " Where is the money and the land you promised us ? " they now ask, not in North Natal alone, but in Basutoland and elsewhere. " You told us that we were to get the farms when the Boers were driven out. You were then to be first, we were to be the second. But for us you could not have finished the war. It was we who tracked and found the Boers for you. How many thousand of our people have been killed fighting for you, and what have we got for it ? " That is one phase of discontent, but there are others. The old " respects " have largely disappeared from the native mind. If ever familiarity bred contempt it did in the un- natural alliance between black and white against white which that war produced. " Why do you sit here night after night with that gun firing at you ? " the black brother 141 From Naboth's Vineyard would ask. "We will go and take it." But the brotherhood ended when the last shot was fired. The servant, elevated for the time, had to go downstairs again. Nor was his old position before the war allowed him ; he must go lower. His wages were to be reduced by half. He was to pay double taxes. He was to be coerced into labour by taxation. Men had no hesitation in saying in his hearing that if these means failed to induce him to work for the white man, other methods must be found. At the close of a native meeting held by a high official some months ago, and after many grievances had been brought forward, the following words are said to have been spoken: "You increase our taxes. You bring in the Chinese, and by them you take work from us. Where are we to find the money to pay all these taxes ? You tell us that Parliament will hear our words, but who is there to represent us in Parliament ? You prevent us from buying land, you tell us not to employ lawyers, but we must employ them." In these complaints, and there were many more, we get some insight 142 From Naboth's Vineyard into the general causes of native discontent existing outside of the Cape Colony. That Colony stands alone in its policy towards the native race a wise and far- seeing policy, the result of the work of many minds during the past quarter of a century, but mainly due to the lifelong labours of one individual, Mr. Saul Soloman, a gentle- man of whom Mr. Froude once wrote : "He was one of the best men I ever knew." Much might be written upon this subject, but it cannot be written now. The policy pursued in Natal and that adopted by the Cape Colony represent two distinct systems. There can be little doubt as to where the balance of wisdom lies. In making its money Natal has made its bed too. The present Government in that Colony is the heir to successive adminis- trations which have followed the same track. They are on the wrong road, and when that is the case the further you follow the road the further it will carry you out of your course. So convinced was Sir Garnet Wolseley thirty years ago that it would not be possible to continue the lines which Natal 143 From Naboth's Vineyard was then pursuing towards its native popu- lation that I believe he thought of proposing a government for the Colony based upon the Indian system. He foresaw that the introduction of responsible government under the conditions which were possible in Natal would only aggravate the diffi- culties of the native situation, and increase the evils under which the Colony suffered. It was interesting to hear all this repeated by so many persons in Natal, after these years, as their personal experience of what had actually occurred. The forecast had been verified. " Responsible government by a handful of farmers twelve-thousand- acre men, more or less is bound to produce trouble, for legislation for natives will rest chiefly with men who manage the natives for their own interests." So one said, and another, and yet another. Natal could not make up its mind frankly to accept the new situation which arose in South Africa with the development of the great mineral wealth of the interior sub-continent. It would neither educate its natives nor enfranchise them. They were to be 144 From Naboth's Vineyard rent-payers, hewers of wood, tax-payers, farm hands, domestic servants, policemen, but not artisans, nor owners of land, nor citizens. The tribal system was to be maintained, but the power of the head of tribe, the chief, was to be lessened almost to the vanishing-point. Natal forgot that the native was gradually educating himself, and that the process was not likely to be carried on in the best school. The black miner would learn many things in Johannesburg besides rock-drilling. The Zulu policeman was receiving education of a strange type in our seaport towns. During a stay of a few days in Durban I saw some extraordinary lessons being taught. I saw rickshaw Kaffirs carrying a white man in a state of helpless intoxication to the lock-up. Another Zulu in police uniform walked beside the vehicle, occasionally picking the white man's hat from the street and re- placing it tenderly upon the inebriate's head. Lessons such as these were only as infant- school teaching compared to those which the war had inculcated. Hell was then, as a celebrated journalist said at the time, " let From Naboth's Vineyard loose." When you thoroughly emancipate that portion of the universe you will not be able to tie it up again at your pleasure, even with responsible Government to help you. I have been told by one of the oldest and most experienced gentlemen in the Colony that parental and tribal authority or discipline among the young Kaffirs was now a thing of the past. The young blood does as he likes. Formerly he had to beg his "musha." from his relations. " He came into the world naked, he lived naked, and he left the world naked. Now he can buy his finery and pay his fines out of the money he makes at the mines. His old code of morals is all but gone. He still loves his home, but he no longer wants to marry and settle down." He will do as the white man does. The terrible aftermath of the war is before him, and in Johannesburg the "Book of the Bounder " is always open to him. " The Government of this country (Natal)," wrote the most distinguished soldier who has been in South Africa for a century, "is neither one thing nor the other. Its natives 146 From Naboth's Vineyard are quick to catch the true meaning of this state of things. They are changing their tone, and they will readily grasp the fact that the house divided against itself, etc., etc." In Natal blacks to white are 9 to i In the Transvaal they are ... 4 ,, i In Basutoland 35 ,, i In Cape Colony 44 J Besides the blacks there are large numbers of coloured or half-caste people to be reckoned with. Thirty years ago there were three or four thousand Indians in Natal. Now there are more than one hundred thousand, and there are almost as many more over the other Colonies. Fifty thousand Chinese coolies have recently been added to the population to add fresh confusion to the race question. These yellow coolies were carried through Natal by railway " precisely as convicts" the words are those of an official. What does the native African think of it all ? Now let us look at the frame in which this strange picture of black and white and yellow is set. You have placed in a central 147 From Naboth's Vineyard position between the Zambesi and Table Bay a great gold and diamond "industry," with an enormous plant of machinery. This plant requires, say, two hundred thousand workmen to keep it fully going. At the top of this " industry " you have a directory with an inner circle or powerful combination, possessing in an almost unlimited degree the power of purse and Press. This directing circle is cosmopolitan, exacting, highly or- ganized. It grasps at unlimited power, and so far it has got everything it has grasped at. If this powerful organization of men, money, and machinery had grown up gradu- ally in some old and strong social body, or long-established national system, where a firm Government ruled over a closely settled and homogenous population, it would have taken its proper place in the nation to which it belonged ; but in South Africa it came as the thunderstorms come, and instead of growing up as a valuable adjunct or servant of the State it descended upon it as a master, a despot, and a collective despot, in whose frame the bowels of human compassion could not be looked for nor the brains of a wide 148 From Naboth's Vineyard and sympathetic knowledge expected. In their individual capacities the men who form this combination may be the best models of the citizens of the world, but it is not as private citizens or individual homogeneities they have to be judged. In the train of this triple-headed giant there have come great numbers of the representatives of that peculiar product of our time which I have sketched in a pre- ceding letter. Is it difficult to trace on the chart of the future South Africa the direction to which the forces and the teaching I have touched upon are tending? Those people who have had the longest experience in dealing with the native races are the most in doubt about the future. They see the danger, but it is easier to foresee than to avert. Nevertheless, amid the clouds on the horizon of South Africa there is a distinct ray of good hope in the early provision made by the wisdom of successive Governments in the Cape Colony for the education, elevation, and political advancement of the black races. Natal preferred to follow their old methods, and she is to-day gathering some of the fruits 149 From Naboth's Vineyard of that preference. A conflict between police and a small body of natives about taxes is followed by martial law, executions by courts martial, burning of kraals, devastation of country, cattle captures, and the rest of it. It would probably be within the truth to say that the poll-tax will cost Natal twenty pounds for every pound that she collects. But a still deeper question lies in all this trouble. Moving through it, or alongside it, as a shadow, signs have appeared which cannot be ignored. I have alluded in these letters to certain side currents in the labour question. "Constructive coercion," "the necessity of making the black men indus- trious fellow-citizens," such things have taken the place of homilies upon the dig- nity of labour, about which a great deal used to be said. What if, aiming at the object of obliging the native to seek the mines, there has been a policy quietly set on foot of eventually removing him from the land, making him by the force of his necessities a labourer below the surface ? I have heard the ruling powers in Johannesburg described as " men whose mental horizon covered only From Naboth's Vineyard the limits of their pockets," but that pocket resembles a fixed beam. It reaches a long way in one direction, although the remainder of the horizon is all dark night to it. Zulu- land is said to be exceptionally rich in minerals of many kinds, and gold has been already found there in rich deposits. In the autumn of 1878 I remember a staff officer of high position in South Africa coming to see me in London. " How are they getting on out there ? " I asked him. "When I left," he replied, "the difficulty was to poke Cetewayo up to fighting." Four or five months later came the news of Isandula. I will close this letter with two short utterances of some note which lately came to my notice. Tengo Jabavu, the editor of a Kaffir newspaper, recently told a meeting of his countrymen to " remember that their votes were now their guns." Could the wise policy which the Cape Colony has followed have been better put? Disarmament by franchise. Now for the other view, this time a white man's. The speaker was a Colonial Militia officer, the scene a railway From Naboth's Vineyard station platform in Natal. " Hullo, old man," called out a friend from the window of a passing train, " what are you doing in that get-up ? " "I've been mobilized, and I'm out after the natives," answered the man in uniform. Then in a confidential tone he added, "It's a deal better than farming, I can tell you." With the black man in the Cape Colony the vote supersedes the gun. With the white man in Natal the sword supplants the spade, and meanwhile the yellow man from Asia is edging in upon this strange chessboard of Black and White. CAPE COLONY, May, 1906. 152 XIII 1 LANDED at St. Helena a fortnight ago and have been dwelling in a world of ninety years ago ever since. All the existing travail of the sub-continent appears temporary beside the memory of the eternal tragedy which this lonely rock witnessed these long years past. ' Art thou still alive, old Earth ? " asked Shelley when the news of May 5th, 1821, reached Europe, and the old Earth might have answered : "I live, and while I live, he does not die." Longwood the Tomb the grey mists drifting in from the enormous outspread ocean the gloomy lava-chasms which im- prison the inner prison, as the ocean imprisons all, the moan of the winds through ragged pine-tops, the sense of a solitude which can be felt, and of a distance which can be seen, all combine to give to St. Helena a physical character and a mental 153 From Naboth's Vineyard meaning which no other spot in the world can equal. Geographically, the island belongs to Africa but all the earth's circle lays claim to it with reason. While every- thing seems impossibly strange here, nobody can possibly be a stranger here. A bust of Napoleon stands on a pedestal at the spot in the little room at Longwood where he expired. "When the Boer prisoners were on the island," said the custodian to me, " they never tired of com- ing to look at that bust." And the world never tires of hearing told and retold the life-story of the man the cast of whose face was taken as he lay dead in this narrow room at Longwood, eighty-five years ago not three generations back and yet his best haters are now his tribute bearers. " The greatest of all great men," the first of our living soldiers calls him. I open an old Annual Register of a year in the middle of the captivity, and I read that " Buona- parte is already forgotten." I turn over a page in the long misery, and I come upon some sententious sentence in which Lieut- General Sir Hudson Lowe, K.C.B., tells his 154 From Naboth's Vineyard subordinate that it is specially his function, at the desire of the English Ministers, that " General Bonaparte " is not to have any intercourse with the outside world. I turn again to what the English Ministers did say, and this is what I find Prime Minister Liverpool writing on the 2ist July, 1815 " I wish that Louis (the Eighteenth) would shoot or hang Bonaparte, but as that cannot (now) be done, he must be sent to St. Helena, where he will very soon be forgotten." Seventy or eighty years pass, and another English Prime Minister cannot better employ his time than in studying the last chapters of that extraordinary life, and adding his mite to the world's knowledge of the captivity in St. Helena. But we must go back to our South Africa. This rock in the Atlantic is not a bad point from which to get that most unfortunate land into our focus. During the war in South Africa the Prince and Princess of Wales made a tour round the Colonial Empire, visiting the Cape in that journey. His Royal Highness brought back a remarkable message to the people 155 From Naboth's Vineyard of the United Kingdom. It was conveyed in two words, "Wake up." " England must wake up," he said. Well, the nation ac- cepted, I think, that reveille call. It woke up out of the sleep into which it had been cast under the spell of certain persons, and the general election of this year marked the disappearance of the last of the " forty winks " into which about the same sug- gestive number of agile-tongued hypnotizers had cast her. The Prince of Wales has recently re- turned from an extensive tour in India, and he has brought back a message of similar significance and importance. This time it is contained in a single word. It is " Sympathy." I will take these two mes- sages. We have wakened up. We have realized the profound mistake of the war, but that awakening is not enough. The keynote of the future lies in the second message. We must have the courage of our convictions, and tell the truth. We must not allow the Devil to have all the good music, as the bishop said in the Church Council when it was proposed to 156 From Naboth's Vineyard abolish Church choirs. Surely the people whose convictions are those of conscience should have as good courage as they whose convictions are of the police-constable kind. Doth conscience in the first sense really "make cowards of us all " ? If the Liberal Party had only half as much courage in office as they have conscience when they are out of orifice, the world would be ever so much better and happier to-day. Are we afraid to show sympathy with the Dutch in South Africa ? They want no preference. They only seek for even-handed justice the justice that Sir George Grey gave them, that Mr. Froude advocated, and that all the wise men who had the good of South Africa at heart always laboured for. No man knew South Africa better than Mr. Froude. When he first went there he imagined, as many others imagined before and after him, that the problem of South Africa was to be solved 4 by a coup de main. Confederation, he thought, could be forced upon the various Colonies. The complete failure of his missions in 1874-75 opened his eyes. He saw that South Africa was not 157 From Naboth's Vineyard to be carried by assault, or by siege, or by hostile measures of any kind. It was to be won by justice, by patience, by wise policy. He had two examples before him Ireland and Canada : the how not to do and the how to do. " The history of Ireland is repeating itself here," he wrote in 1885. "As if Ireland was not enough." Even ten years earlier he had foreseen, with extra- ordinary power of prescience, what was likely to happen, and this is the manner in which he then forecast the future of that unhappy land. Speaking at that time in Port Elizabeth, he said : " There are three courses possible to us by which you may proceed " First, there is open force. " Second, there is the policy of fastening upon the soil of the Free States, involving yourselves with them in small and irritating disputes, advancing one claim here and another there continuing a series of pro- vocations until you irritate them into violent language, or some precipitate action that would be a pretext for attacking them, and proceed upon the plea that they had 58 From Naboth's Vineyard themselves begun the quarrel. But re- member," he went on in deeply impressive language, "that all this will come back upon you, and that you will have to meet to the last cent, with interest, and with compound interest, the price and the punishment of such a policy. "And the third course is conciliation, and that is the course which you should follow." Ten years later he wrote again in Oceana : " South Africa can only be ruled constitutionally, by conciliating the Dutch people there ; and we have persisted from the beginning, and are still persisting, in affronting them and irritating them. The Boers have been so systematically abused and misrepresented that the English scarcely regarded them as human beings to whom they owed any moral consideration." Reading words such as these one begins to think that the world would have gone just as well, or as ill, if never a book had been written or a thought of truth expressed. Let us hear how Mr. Froude describes the views of that veteran Colonial Governor and 159 From Naboth's Vineyard great administrator, Sir George Grey. Grey is speaking : "He had gone to the Cape with the prejudice against them (the Boers) generally entertained in England, and he had found the Boer of the English news- papers and platform speeches a creature of the imagination, which had no existence in 'space or time.' . . . They were a quiet, orderly, industrious, hard-working people, hurting no one if let alone, but resentful of injuries, and especially of calumnies against their character. Our interference alone had created all the troubles in South Africa. But for us the Dutch and English inhabi- tants could live peaceably and happily to- gether without a word of difference. All that we had to do was to leave them the same liberties which we do not think of refusing to the Australians and Canadians. They were a people who could never be driven, but if treated frankly and generously they would be found among the very best Colonists in all the British dominions." " Sir George," continues Mr. Froude, ' spoke sadly and wistfully. Were he to return as Governor to Cape Town and 1 60 From Naboth's Vineyard allowed to act on his own judgment, he knew well that there would be no more trouble there. He knew, also, that it was impossible for him to go in that capacity ; but though seventy-three years old, and with failing health, he was still thinking of going there as a private individual and of trying what he could do out of pure love for his own country, and disgust at the follies in which some fatality compelled us to persist." I know of nothing sadder in our recent history than what this conversation reveals. At the moment when these two men the one the most brilliant historical writer of his day, the other the highest type of the Colonial Governor and man of action our modern Empire has known were thus tracing in clearest characters upon the chart of our Colonial system the true course of Imperial Government, a sinister figure was already emerging out of the mists of the financial intrigues, sordid emulations, and mean rivalries of South African com- mercialism. 1885-95 : ten short years saw all the wise counsels flouted, the sound 161 M From Naboth's Vineyard precepts violated, the gloomy prophetic instincts realized. " The series of provo- cations " were in full swing. The pretexts for attacking the Boers were readily found "one claim was advanced here, another there." The whole sequence ran as easily as though it had been contrived and calcu- lated from the very words which Mr. Froude had used in warning and reprehension and then destruction, desolation, murder, famine, rapine, and ruin were carried wholesale into South Africa. And now another decade has passed ; the day of retribution has already dawned ; the first price has been partly paid, but the last cent and the com- pound interest have still to be extracted. The punishment of the fatal policy is not yet begun. " Thefts never enrich ; " " Murder will speak out of stone walls ; " " Treat men as pawns and ninepins and you shall suffer as well as they ;" "Crime and punishment grow out of one stem ; " "If you put a chain around the neck of a slave, the other end fastens itself around your own." Was it not all foretold to us and written down for 162 From Naboth's Vineyard us in a thousand sentences long before Froude wrote or Grey laboured ? Emerson might just as well have flicked bread-crumbs at the wall of his study as have written these things. What he called " the slaughter-house style of thinking " was to have its little day. " Pooh-pooh ! " and Cocksure were to force their old chargers to the front again the new " Chassepot " must be let off, and the new " Long Toms " and the rest of them. And lo ! "Pooh-pooh!" and dear old Cocksure go off their horses too ; and all the stocks and shares, the bonds and bills that were to run up so high, are down lower than they have ever been. And one great contriver is dead, and another "Empire-builder" is retired, and a third has become, like the globe, "flat- tened at the poles ; " and so on and so on, while the old earth rolls its course, smooth- ing out the graves on the veld, levelling the block-houses, and gradually undoing the action of the "slaughter-house school of thought," and all the wreck and ruin it occasioned in South Africa. Even this ocean rock which had its share 163 From Naboth's Vineyard in the great gold shower which the war cast upon South Africa is now on the brink of financial ruin, and dreading that the with- drawal of the last remaining hundred soldiers of the garrison will be the final straw in the balance of its misfortune. During the war there were five or six thousand Boer prisoners on the island, and from every person one hears the same story : " No quieter or more easily managed men were ever here." " There were some fifty or sixty ' uitlanders ' among them, and they gave all the trouble." How often has the truth to be repeated before people at home will listen to it? When I was in Pretoria recently the police officers told me that the Dutch people of the town gave only a seventh of the police prisoners ; the remain- ing population gave six-sevenths. Yet the Dutch inhabitants were half of the whole. In the country districts there is no crime whatever. In the four years which have fol- lowed the termination of the war there has not been one case of outrage by the Dutch in the annexed Republics after a war of two and a half years' duration, which saw every 164 From Naboth's Vineyard Boer homestead destroyed, all stock killed or stolen, and even the Boer Bibles carried off. No stealings of cattle or horses have been reported; no " rapparrees," no "tories," have appeared. As the war was entirely phenomenal in its character, in the nature of the resistance made, and in the vast disparity between the forces engaged upon either side, so has the peace which followed it been wholly unprecedented in the manner in which the conquered people have behaved since the cessation of hostilities. ST. HELENA, June^ 1906. 165 XIV WELL! What is to be done now? Is not this tranquillity a proof that the Boers are contented? I hear some people ask. No greater fallacy could be imagined. To believe that will be to repeat the old errors, to build again upon the old rotten foundations, to prepare the road of the future for interminable troubles. We must take advantage of this season of calm to recast our policy, and to undo some of the worst aspects of recent conflict. There are many ways in which reparation can be made. The old Bibles taken from the farmhouses can be restored the books which had the records of the births and deaths of the forefathers of these farmers and of the births and deaths of their children could be collected and returned to their original owners or their relatives. Surely Bible-loving Britain might fittingly begin the work of reparation in that manner. 1 66 From Naboth's Vineyard In all the falsehood which is still sent from South Africa for home consumption you may be sure of one fact : It is that in this seem- ing peace Dutch South Africa has still a bleeding heart. She does not weep with her eyes, but her heart bleeds. If the skies above her could only weep as her heart bleeds, her arid soil and stony kopjes would be deep in grass and flowers to-day. But for all her sorrow her eyes are dry as her hilltops, and they will remain dry. If she could weep she might forget. She can never forget. She may forgive. You do not know in England the tenth part of what she knows. You will never know it she will always know it. It was the womb of the nation that was struck. The victims were the mother and the child, sister, wife, widow. Never in any modern war did the womb of a people so suffer. If it be true that the hand which rocks the cradle rules the world, think how impossible it will be for South Africa to tear out that page from her memory. Nevertheless if the wounds were cruel the glory was great. If the leaf cannot 167 From Naboth's Vineyard be torn out it can be pasted over, and the paste will be the glory which you and your sons must accord to her. Give her the entire truth of that glory. Write it large in your own history, too, for it is also necessary to you. You cannot deny it, and explain the war. Anything from 40 to 400 millions of people against 250,000 men, women, and children all told ! Two and a half years' war; 250 millions of money; 500,000 horses and mules dead ; 480,000 soldiers all these against the population whose numbers were those of a city of the second or third rank in England. If this handful was not heroic, what, then, was the gigantic other side ? Her own glory and your sympathy. These are the gateways through which you can move into better days in South Africa. Every little act will tell. Many of them, like the Bibles, will cost you very little, and you will have another satisfaction in doing acts of sym- pathetic reparation, inasmuch as they need not open the door to dishonest dealings among your own servants. For instance, the old Boer officials might be given employment 168 From Naboth's Vineyard or pensions under Government. They would work for half the salaries, and bring double knowledge of their duties to the labour of their departments. Many of these old servants of the late Governments are not far removed from destitution. Fortu- nately they can live on little, and their brethren who have been less unfortunate are generous in the extreme. I was informed by a gentleman who has been, and is, anti- Dutch in his sympathies, that he knew of Boer families who are living in Kaffir kraals, working for Kaffirs, and who were being wholly supported by what they earned from Kaffirs. He had been himself a witness of this state of things on his own farms. The destitution is extreme in the northern part of the Transvaal. When I visited Middleburg, a party of Boers about a hundred men, women, and children had gone into the bush country to the north of that place to find food and gather the wild peaches which are there plentiful. Fever suddenly broke out among them, and some fifty or sixty perished in a few weeks one entire family had died. 169 From Naboth's Vineyard At the same station I met with an old Boer who was employed by our Engineer Depart- ment in planting trees. He had fought in the war. His father had been a " Voor- trekker." The well-known passage over the Vaal River known as " Viljoen's Drift " had been named after him. Toil, heat, age, hardship were written in every line of this man's head and face. He would have made a splendid study for a Rembrandt " Head of an Old Peasant." The deep furrows in his neck and face, the tangled grey hair, the sun-bronzed features, the look of tired labour in his deep-set eyes, all were there. I asked him about his life. " If I thought," he said, "that my children were to go through what I have gone through, and be in their old age as I am now in mine, I would pray the Almighty this night that when He takes me He will take them." In this old Boer's mind the lot of the twenty odd thousand women and children dead in the concentration camps had not been the worst one. I once remember, when the news of the mortality among the women and children in these death camps first reached England, 170 From Naboth's Vineyard the war journals had been eloquent in praising the wisdom and humanity of this new method of modern warfare, which per- mitted a country to be "cleared" while at the same time it took steps to prevent the full ravages of war from falling upon the more helpless members of the enemy's com- munity. I think they pointed out, too, that these camps could be utilized for the purposes of education infant-school teaching and other meritorious works of benevolence and instruction. We know what happened. It was among these unfortunate helpless ones that Death reaped his largest harvest. We have heard a good deal about "methods of barbarism " in the last few years. It seems to me that we have got a little bit mixed over our metaphors, and that it might do us a lot of good if we were to study bar- barism more closely. I find a barbarian of the fourteenth century who was called in his day "the thunderbolt of war" telling his soldiers and captains " that they were never to forget, no matter in what country they might be making war" (the italics are not in the original), " that Churchmen, women, 171 From Naboth's Vineyard children, and the poor were not their enemies." Then six or seven hundred years earlier, I find it recorded of one "Clovis " by name, that he hanged one of his soldiers because the man had stolen a bundle of hay from the cottage of a peasant somewhere on the Loire. A war captain of the name of Genseric, who is supposed to have known something of the methods of Vandalism, is reported by Gibbon to have preserved Rome from fire, and to have left untouched in the churches of the city the sacred vessels of gold and silver. Clearly these eminent bar- barian soldiers were a long way behind the ages in which they lived their education in methods of barbarism had manifestly been neglected. But when all of the past has been said, the question of what has now to be done still remains. I will come to it later. First let us bear in mind that we have had to sail this sea of conciliation before, and that we have some excellent charts of it existing. Lord Durham went to Canada in 1838 when that country had been a prey to dissension and civil war or rebellion during many preceding 172 From Naboth's Vineyard years. Lord Durham's first dispatch is dated "Castle of St. Louis, May 3ist, 1838," his last dispatch bears date October 3ist of the same year. In those six months he had done more in the making of Canada in laying the foundation of her present state of prosperity and happiness than had been achieved by all the Governors and Governments of seventy years before him. "Justice, mildness, and vigour" were his watchwords of policy. He would " merge the odious animosities of origin in the feelings of a nobler and more comprehensive nationality." "It is proposed," he writes, "either to place the legislative authority in a Governor with a council formed of the heads of the British party, or to contrive some scheme of repre- sentation by which a minority, with the forms of representation, is to deprive a majority of all voice in the management of its own affairs." "It is not in North America," he continues, " that men can be cheated by an unreal semblance of representative Govern- ment, or persuaded that they are out-voted when in fact they are disfranchised." As 173 From Naboth's Vineyard usual, these words fell upon dull or unwilling ears, and another decade had to pass before the light of common sense was to break upon " this ,unhappy country," as Durham in despair calls Canada. When the descendant of Robert Bruce came out as Governor- General a few years later, the bad boys of " Our Lady of the Snows " greeted him with missiles harder than snowballs, and finally they burnt the Houses of Parliament almost over his head. They would have killed him if they could. He repaid his cowardly assailants by making them the freest and most happily governed people in the world. Fifty-six years later a similar condition of affairs had to be treated in another con- tinent, the rival parties this time being British and Dutch but there was neither a Durham nor an Elgin at hand, and with that strange impishness of irony which fate seems sometimes to love, the chair of Bruce was filled by a disciple of Balliol. All the world knows what followed. The flood gates of war were opened, and a torrent of destruc- tion let loose upon the unfortunate land. Never had any country presented a more 174 From Naboth's Vineyard favourable social soil, or more promising political and religious conditions for the growth of the principle of what has recently been called "peaceful penetration." We had only to sit still, to turn a deaf but seemingly attentive ear to our own bad boys to keep the true "Imperial" powers well above the toil and moil and mercenary clamour of the syndicator, the speculator, and all the varied assortment of beings so aptly described by the great American as "not men, but hungers, thirsts, fevers, and appetites walking." The old men were dying out, the new ones were coming to us. The " dopper " was disappearing. Education, railways, intermarriage, community of interests, space for all, these things must tell in the long run on the growth of a united South Africa. But what were these in the catalogue of the moment, in the view of the man who was in a hurry of the men who had mercenary objects to gain of others who cherished schemes of national aggrandize- ment, and of some who had more question- able ambitions to realize or ends to serve ? 175 From Naboth's Vineyard "In South Africa," wrote Mr. Froude, "there is always a pretext for interference from home, and thus the unlucky country has been the prey of well-intentioned philan- thropists, of Colonial Secretaries ambitious of distinguishing themselves, and of internal factions fed by the hope of English support." In an earlier letter I have alluded to the influence which a mosquito is supposed to exercise upon the selection of the human species in South Africa. Is it possible that there is also there another insect which has some similar effect upon the moral or mental nature of the new-comer into the sub-con- tinent ? They keep in the museum at Cape Town a spider whose record as an accelera- tor of time is probably without parallel. The twelve o'clock mid-day gun is there fired by electricity when the sun reaches the meridian. The gun fired as usual one day, but all the inhabitants who possessed watches found that their time was about five and twenty minutes slow. The people who had no watches went home to find their mid-day meal still cooking. It was dis- covered later that people had been too 176 From Naboth's Vineyard previous. The cause of it all was that spider which is now in the bottle in the museum. He had managed, in the course of web-making operations, to drop himself exactly upon the extremely fine instrument which set free the electric current. The gun had fired about half an hour before its proper time. Cape Town had put the hands of its clocks forward, only to put them back again. Meanwhile, the spider was put into the bottle. Was he only one, or did he belong to a species which inoculates new- comers with the virus of that "hunger, thirst, and fever," making of them what the philosopher called "appetites walking"? ST. HELENA, June, 1906. 177 N XV BEFORE any lasting basis of future contentment is possible in South Africa much will have to be done. 1. Our just debts and obligations acknow- ledged over the signatures of our own officers will have to be paid. 2. The seat of Imperial Government and authority should be moved back to Cape Town. 3. The raiders should be removed from positions of high place and prominent Im- perial administrative power in South Africa. In a great empire it should always be possible to find lucrative positions and fields of harmless activity for persons whose ex- cellent intentions "when carried into places where it is not due " have proved hurtful to the national interests. 4. When these obvious and fundamental initial necessities have been carried out, the From Naboth's Vineyard work of reconstructing the ruined fabric of confidence and belief in the honesty of our intentions will have become possible, but it will inevitably be a slow and lengthy labour. The ruin done in a week may take years to rebuild. As I have said, the Dutch know more about the war and the manner in which it was engineered against them than the people of England know ; for the people of England the real people have never been allowed to hear one-tenth of the truth of that time. The great sin committed against England and South Africa lay in the purchase of the Press in order to calumniate and vilify the Dutch people in South Africa. To buy the sword is nothing that has always been possible ; but to seduce the scribe, to induce the preacher to prostitute his pulpit that has been, and is, a crime of the first magnitude. 5. Responsible government based upon a full, free, just, and equitable franchise system may be trusted to deal with the many internal abuses the patent nepotisms and corruptions which grew so rapidly under the 179 From Naboth's Vineyard system of irregular civil government which succeeded martial law in the conquered Colonies. The time-honoured custom of " blooding the noses of their own hounds " had, of course, to be followed. The pack was an unusually large one, and swarms of officials soon settled upon the cities of the Republics, more destructive even than the locust- swarms which have since devastated the country districts. To-day the unfortunate Transvaal is compelled to pay for a Civil List out of all proportion to its needs or revenue. It pays .108,000 in salaries and travelling expenses to the officers engaged in public works. Its Health Bill in salaries is .50,000 a year, native affairs personnel cost ; 1 04,000, Customs ditto .44,000, agriculture figures at .56,000, patents appear for the modest sum of .6000. Fifty-four officials draw salaries of ,1000 a year or over that sum. It has been publicly stated that there are more officials in receipt of ;iooo a year salaries than in any other Colony in the Empire. In the department of agriculture we find 1 80 From Naboth's Vineyard "Directors," "Assistant Directors," "Horti- culturists," " Entomologists," " Botanists," " Foresters," " Bacteriologists," " Serumists," " Seed and Plant Introducers," " Stock In- spectors," " Veterinary Surgeons," " Con- servators," " Publicationists," etc., etc. The majority of this formidable list might have been truthfully designated under the single heading " Locusts." But had any sense of, humour existed in the minds of the govern- ing powers at the moment they instituted this colossal suction-scheme, they could not have persisted in it. One can imagine the feelings of some Boer who had come back from the war to find even his peach-trees cut down and his homestead a shapeless ruin, when he was being lectured upon the theory of tree-planting by an Assistant Forester, or was the recipient of a leaflet from the Bacteriological Department dealing with the methods by which " schizomycetes " might be successfully eliminated from his farm, where some bleaching bones of once numerous flocks alone testified to the pre- existence of animal life upon the wind-swept waste which his forefathers had reclaimed 181 From Naboth's Vineyard from the wilderness a few generations earlier. Responsible government may also be trusted to put an end to the abortive but expensive schemes of land settlement, forced colonization, servant-girl introduction, etc., etc., nearly all of which have proved failures very harmful to the unfortunate people who have embarked in them, and of benefit only to the personnel employed in their adminis- tration. For the rest, the best service we can do South Africa will be to leave her alone. All seem to be now agreed upon that point. Even the men who seven or eight years ago were said to be desirous of seeing some striking example of British power, are now in most instances ruefully regarding the result of the experiment. The devil is sick and sorry to-day in South Africa, but his sorrow is for himself. It does not extend to others. That would be expecting too much. When the devil can be sorry for others he will be what he once was an angel. Nevertheless, the present would be a good time for the Christian bodies generally in England to 182 From Naboth's Vineyard have another try at him. Some of them might perhaps find it difficult to answer if he were disposed to question them as to their attitude before and during the war, but he is so sick that it is improbable he would say many unpleasant things, and a few Colonial bishoprics, established, say, some- where on the Zambesi, would soon silence him. You meet few persons in South Africa who will tell you that the country has seen the last of her troubles. Ninety- nine in a hundred think she has changed one set of misfortunes for another even if she has done that. For my own part I believe that we might end all our difficulties much more easily than people imagine. We have only to do what Sir George Grey, Mr. Froude, and many others advised us to do long ago leave her alone. Let her hammer out her future, as Canada and Australia have done, upon a fair field and with no favour. No matter in what fashion Downing-street may attempt to make her bed, South Africa will lie on it only as she likes in the long run. The war had scarcely ceased ere there '83 From Naboth's Vineyard arose among our own people in Johannes- burg a strong reaction against us. That feeling is gaining strength still. If nothing succeeds like success, so nothing fails like failure. Hundreds of our own people in the Transvaal will tell you to-day that they much preferred the old days under " Oom Paul " to the regime under which they are now living. Our rulers have imagined that, like Mercator and his "projection," they could square the circle of South Africa. One after the other they have failed in these academic labours, and they are astonished at finding themselves and their " projec- tions " back in the inevitable globe circle again, their efforts having only resulted in making it a "vicious" one. In South Africa English and Dutch have already combined on one point. It is to laugh at our failures, and when once the dress circle and the pit are united upon that score, it is not far from having to quit the stage and let the curtain down. I fully realize the importance of the native question. I think I understand something about the Labour problem and of the many 184 From Naboth's Vineyard grave difficulties which South Africa has to face, now and in the future, but I firmly believe that the perpetual presence of the Imperial power is the strongest incentive to aggression upon the natives on the part of the whites, and that our interference, no matter how well-intentioned it may be, will result, as it has resulted in the past, in friction, failure, and misfortune. The Cape Colony only learnt wisdom and justice in its dealings with the native races when it had to pay the cost of its own wars. It was precisely similar in the case of New Zealand forty years ago. "Chinese Labour," "One Vote One Value," the pernicious influence of De Beers, the intrigues of the Rand magnates, the Labour question, the Rhodes Trust all these things will have their day and run their several courses ; but when once the people have been given a just, full, and free representative system, and when " the mind of the (Imperial) ruling" is "favour- able " to all and fair to all, then we may look for a South Africa in which the name ' Good Hope " will have ceased to be an 85 From Naboth's Vineyard absurdity. The path is easy to follow if we wish to follow it. It has been " blazed " for us by the warnings of our best as well as by the windy wordings of our worst. Opening " David Copperfield " on board the ship which carried me here, I came upon this sentence : " If we fail to hold our own . . . every object in this world will slip from us. No ; ride on, rough-shod if need be, smooth-shod if that will do ; but ride on, ride on over all the obstacles and win the race." "Win what race?" said I. " The race that one has started on," said he. " Ride on ! " We know the shipwreck in which that rough-shod ride ended. South Africa is a poor country about which to prophesy, and he must be a bold man who would venture to ply that trade there. I met in a railway carriage in Natal a gentlemen who kept a native store in Tembuland. He was proceeding there with his wife and child. The man had fought in the old Zulu War, two of his sons had fought for us in the Boer War ; the third, now travelling with his parents, was a boy about twelve years old. Speaking of the 186 From Naboth's Vineyard Boer War, the mother said that it was their family custom at home to pray every night for the safety of the two absent boys, and for the dead who had fallen in the war. One evening when the prayers were finished, the boy, then a child of six years, asked, " Have the dead Boers any one to pray for them, mother ? " "I don't know," she answered; "but I don't think they have, because they don't pray for the dead." " Then I'll pray for them," said the boy. "And every night after we had prayed for our dead, he " pointing to the boy (who was asleep on the carriage seat) "said a prayer for the Boer dead, and we joined in the prayer." A small beginning, no doubt, but when a grave is being filled in the first handfuls are not large. ST. HELENA, June, 1906. I8 7 XVI LOOKING back only seven years to those palatial days of early '99, when " our Mr. John " was being hurried to the depleting post amid a host of jocund patriots, sympathetic contractors, and cosmo- politan Empire-builders, all of whom were unwearied in their assurances of the easy and economic accomplishment of great archi- tectural designs, one cannot help pausing a moment to reflect upon the physical machinery by which such colossal depletions were subsequently achieved. Unquestion- ably, the cable stands in the forefront of the engine-house ; nothing in the political or social machinery of the time played such an effective part in the preparatory ceremonies of the sacrifice. Without the ocean cable it is difficult to see how it could have been done. It is only when one has watched the working of a great ocean telegraph at both its extremities that one can comprehend 1 88 From Naboth's Vineyard how facile has become the accomplishment of great designs. I forget who it was who said that ten minutes was a sufficient start for any men- dacity. Think, then, what twenty days must mean. Besides, a message by cable is vastly more important than anything a penny stamp can carry. Life has not enough leisure now for a letter "the wire's the thing by which you catch the conscience of King " Demos. When all the causes of the late war have been weighed and analyzed, the cable cause stands as the driving wheel of the entire machine plant. I have been watching the working of our Colonial systems for nearly half a century, and it has been borne in upon me more and more that we are seriously misusing our cables. If you write a dispatch for direction, or for popular consumption, at some point which is twenty days' distant from the seat of Empire, the cable gives you the inestim- able advantage of having nineteen days and some hours, with as many nights thrown in, for thinking and sleeping over your office copy. The simple word " don't " cabled on 189 From Naboth's Vineyard the morning of the twentieth day can save the situation. But when you reverse the process, and cable your orders for action, the apple-cart is liable to be upset without any chance of subsequent readjustment. I have been told that the outbreak of a general war would probably be signalized by a general cutting of all the ocean cables. Would it be an unmitigated misfortune if the advanced posts of Empire had to revert to old-time tactics intent only upon looking outwards, and, what is of equal importance, hearing outwards ? You cannot easily have one ear on the home telephone and the other on the other side of the enemy's hill. You may be sure Puck was full of mischief when he laid, in imagination, the first cable. Even now he gets into the wires occasionally. I think I am correct in saying that on the memor- able occasion of the Jameson Raid both the African cables that on the east coast as well as that on the west were out of action at the supreme moment, and remained out of action with Puckish persistency for many hours. I remember having heard another strange 190 From Naboth's Vineyard electric story of that time. It had been suggested to the old Transvaal Government that they should instal an electric lighting plant in their new arsenal at Pretoria. It was safer and more easily managed, they were told. It would show, too, that they were up to date. Matters were soon arranged a tender was accepted, the work was quickly completed, and the arsenal at Pretoria was duly "installed" some weeks prior to the date in December, 1895, which had been fixed for the raid from Mafeking and the rising in Johannesburg. " The installation was arranged," said the narrator, so that by simply turning a button you could plunge the whole arsenal into darkness, and by an equally simple movement with another button the bare and open space which sur- rounded the building became flooded with light. It had been settled between the " risers " and the " raiders " that the arsenal at Pretoria was to be surprised and captured by the first-named body of " Reformers," moving at night upon Pretoria from a base midway between that place and Johannes- burg and that when the seizure of the 191 From Naboth's Vineyard arms and ammunition had been effected, the buttons would be worked in the simple manner described, so that while the risers (who had in anticipation possessed them- selves of the arsenal) would be lying hidden in impenetrable darkness, the aroused Boers (who, by this time it was supposed, would have been advancing to the attack) would suddenly have found themselves in a blaze of electric light, as they crossed the open ground to attempt the recovery of their lost possession. Under such circumstances it was easy to foresee the result every bullet fired from the darkened fortress must have found a Boer billet not even the latest tap-room recruit from Johannesburg could have missed such an easy target. "Would you believe it?" went on the tale of disappointed ambition. "It was found at the last moment that the infernal buttons wouldn't work ; the whole beastly apparatus had got out of order. Was there ever such luck ? " By this time the bystanders had been wrought to a high pitch of excitement and expectation. The denouement of the story left them silent. At last one of them 192 From Naboth's Vineyard asked as will often happen on such occa- sions a very foolish question : " Who paid for the job ? " he inquired. For a moment the original narrator regarded the questioner with a look of surprise and almost of pity, natural to the simplicity of mind revealed by the query. " Of course, old Kruger paid," he said gruffly. I have sometimes thought that had Paul Kruger lived a few years longer, he and the English taxpayer would have become true friends. It was by the electric wire, too, that during these jocund days of early '99 the highest flights of realistic imagination were evolved out of nothing. I recall the manner in which a small body of very inde- pendent citizens, acting in a remote part of the sub-continent, were able to impress the governing minds of the moment with a lively sense of what " the white man's burden " really means in Africa. The telegraph an- nounced one morning that the shops, or stores, of two Indian traders had been wrecked, the persons of the obnoxious intruders seized, their property divided among the citizens, and themselves forcibly 193 o From Naboth's Vineyard conveyed over the border into Portuguese territory. A further telegram arrived later reporting that the members of the Volunteer corps of the town had possessed themselves of the arms in the arsenal, and that they had stoutly refused to deliver up the said arms when called upon to do so by properly constituted authority. But the crowning news came still later. It reported that the members of the Chamber of Commerce had passed a series of resolutions entirely endors- ing the action taken by the other bodies in the town, and expressing complete sympathy with the aims of the reformers in their laud- able and patriotic efforts to exclude the undesirable alien from that portion of the African continent. Here was an array of reported facts from which some very pretty headlines could have been made up for the London morning papers. The commercial and trading in- terests in this flourishing Zambesian com- munity had expressed opinions upon the fiscal and free trade questions in terms of unmistakable strength, the trained bands of the town had taken equally prompt measures 194 From Naboth's Vineyard for safeguarding the citizen against " the return of the native," but still more serious, the greybeards of the municipality assembled in their Chamber of Commerce had placed on record their entire sympathy with the movement, and their complete concurrence in the aims and objects of the younger and more active sections of the community. The " Chamber of Commerce " touch was the work of genius. Doubtless the edifice had solemnity about it, steps, pillars, a portico. One could cope with the plunder part of the business. One could even fire into the mutineers if they refused after the fifth or sixth summons to lay down our rifles ; but it was quite another matter when the slaughter of these grave and reverent seniors had to be contemplated. The following day, however, the outlook brightened. It was found that the white raiders, the Volunteers, and the greybeards of the Chamber of Commerce were all one and the same body of persons ; that their collective numbers were about one dozen, and that the arsenal and the Chamber of Commerce were not separate buildings in 195 From Naboth's Vineyard the city, nor had they any importance, archi- tectural or otherwise, beyond what they might derive from being in direct connection with the "hotel" forming parts, in fact, of that corrugated-iron establishment. The essence of the error which we have been always making in Africa, an error which working by cable only intensifies, is our imagining that the Dark Continent will either receive our message or transmit its own in the same sense or meaning which we are wont to apply to words. The words may be the same, but their meanings are different. Her methods of thought are not ours. The great gold-mine which she discovered twenty years ago on the Witwatersrand is not a gold - mine in the sense that mines in America or Australia have been gold-mines. It has changed its nature, and become a bottomless pit, a gigantic suction-hole for the reception and detention of English and other gold pieces. When our ship arrived at Cape- town some six months ago, an old resident, returning to his native shores, was greeted affectionately by a compatriot with, " Well, old man, I suppose you have come out again 196 From Naboth's Vineyard to float off some more of your paper upon these at home." " Can the Ethiopian change his skin, and the leopard his spots ? " asked Jeremiah of old. To which I would reply, " That depends entirely upon circumstances." I see every prospect of the Ethiopian knocking the spots off the leopard in a not remote future if the cable continues to be the chief medium of communication between them. I remember once on the Upper Nile, at the time the British force were being withdrawn from Dongola for the purpose, it was said, of going to war somewhere on the .Amur Daria, a telegram arriving at the frontier stations of Merawi declaring the desire of his Majesty's Ministers that " settled government " should be established in the Sudan before the withdrawal of the troops. All the orders for evacuation had already been issued we were to move in two or three days' time. There were about forty-eight hours in which "settled govern- ment " could be established. The order was a large one, but the area of its action was still more extensive. I sent at once for the 197 From Naboth's Vineyard head man of the neighbouring Arab village. " Who was the last Shagghieh king of this country before the Turks came ? " I asked an old man when he arrived at the military post. "It was the Malek el Bookera" (that was not the exact name, but it will suffice), he replied. " Are there any of his descendants now living?" was my next question. "Yes, Allah be praised ! A descendant of El Bookera dwelt at a spot about six hours by camel from Merawi." " Send for him at once." The following day the lineal descen- dant of the last king of the Shagghieh Arabs appeared with a small following of camel retainers at the post. Conversation began. I put as succinctly as I could before this grandson of El Bookera (he was also, I think, a descendant of the Prophet) what I thought were the wishes of her Majesty's Government on this question of settled government in the Sudan. The varying expressions which crossed the Malek's face told me that the interpreter was certainly translating the mind of her Majesty's Minis- ters into some very striking word-pictures. Every now and then the Malek's eyes were 198 From Naboth's Vineyard reverentially raised towards the roof of the mud hut in which the interview was being held. A single ejaculation of appeal or praise to Allah came occasionally from his lips. There was a pause when the interpreter ceased speaking, during which the beads which the Malek held in his hand dropped down their little white thread. Then he spoke at considerable length. When he had finished I asked the inter- preter what had been said. ''He said," went on that functionary, " that he has quite understood all the matters that your Excellency has explained, and that he is ready to undertake the duties which your Excellency orders." I felt surprised and relieved. " But he said a good deal more than that," I remarked for the Malek had spoken for some minutes, while the interpreter's version had only occupied a few seconds. " He said, your Excellency, that in the old days his grandfather had cut heads in this country, and that still further off his great-grandfather had cut heads, and that, 199 From Naboth's Vineyard although his father had not cut heads, he himself the present El Bookera was pre- pared now to begin cutting heads, and to go on cutting heads, and governing the country in the way all their Excellencies wished should be done." We marched next morning. LONDON, July, 1906. 200 XVII 1HAVE been asked by some persons who were good enough to read the letters I have written upon South African affairs why I have not been an advocate of a closer and more continued interference on the part of the Imperial Government in the internal affairs of the sub-continent. I will endeavour to explain my reasons at greater length. The secret of our success with all the other Colonies of the Empire has been non-interference. The cause of our trouble in South Africa has been interference. Canada doctored from Downing-street fifty years ago was precisely what South Africa is to-day, a perpetual trouble, a prolonged failure. There is not a Colony of ours on the globe in which stories of the errors which are inevitable when government is attempted by the man "off the spot" are 201 From Naboth's Vineyard not as plentiful as blackberries on briers. The story of the War Office order which directed the military chaplain who read morning prayers at Fort Napier, in Natal, to give service at some place near King Williamstown (five hundred miles away in Cape Colony) in the evening, is still as fresh, and seemingly as refreshing, to the South African mind, as I found it a generation ago. Nor, when we turn from the field of geography to that of history, is the prospect more promising. " Every day that I am here," wrote Talley- rand to Louis XVIII. from the Congress of Vienna, " I grow more and more astonished at all that the English don't know." Paul Kruger made a profound mistake in import- ing Hollanders into the Transvaal. We have made a similar error in filling the country with our people. Kruger could have got better men from the Dutch people in the old Colony. We could have done the same among our people here. Our youthful University importations have not been a success. That young administrative 202 From Naboth's Vineyard aspirant, who is said to have declared to some old-time English settler, " Haw haw. We are going to run this country with gentlemen and by proclamations," is not exactly the type of Government official best suited to " run " anything, except, perhaps, a cricket-ball. You will have to visit South Africa many times ere its roads become familiar to you. Better still, you should be born there if you are to have business or administrative dealings with it. Even Sir George Grey could sometimes make mistakes in South Africa. Travelling up country, he stopped one morning for an early cup of tea at a wayside inn. The bill for half a dozen boiled eggs and the same number of cups of tea was two pounds ten shillings. As the party were taking their seats in the Cape cart again, Sir George observed to mine host that " eggs must be scarce on that line." "Your Excellency," observed the innkeeper, " eggs is plentiful. It is Governors that is scarce on this road." If South Africa is to be ruled from England, let our young statesmen at least 2CK From Naboth's Vineyard be sent there after they leave college not to "do it" as Mr. Phineas Fogg did the world, but to do it as our grandfathers " coached " Europe one hundred and fifty years ago. We know what a short visit to the "Illimitable" did for a celebrated old statesman. What dreams of foreign Empire it shattered, what nightmares of home policy it conjured up! Would it not be better to put our statesmen into this extraordinary Veld-School in their recep- tive days rather than in the deceptive stages of later life ? When the preliminary arrangements for the recent war in South Africa were being made in England in the early 'nineties, the first step taken by the " builders " was to lay the foundation-stone of the edifice. It was very appropriately laid in paper scrip shares bonds. All England rushed hungrily at this paper. It could not be taken fast enough. People fought to get it. Still, after all, it was only paper promises to pay. Then came the next move. It was first whispered, then spoken, and finally shouted that if old Kruger could 204 From Naboth's Vineyard be got out of the way all this mass of paper- promise would become gold real live gold. It was thus that the road to ruin in South Africa was paved. When everybody had surrendered their purses to the various Turpins of the times, and had got in return these little bits of paper with Rand, Rho- desian, and Transvaal names written upon them, they were told : " Clear out old Kruger, and your bits of paper will turn into bags of gold." It was thought at first that " the Raid/' as it was called, would suffice for the expul- sion of the man and the transmutation of the metal ; but the Raid failed, the slump followed, and the abortive inquiry closed the first act. The great central conception, how- ever that of wealth out of war was not abandoned. War was only postponed it was to be brought about " constitutionally " this time. A select band of "constitutional" pro- vokers was imported into South Africa. "We have failed this time," one of them is reported to have said to a Dutch lady as they parted at the door of the 205 From Naboth's Vineyard committee- room where the inquiry had been held ; " but never mind, we will still goad you into war." I was reminded of all this and a good deal more when I read a few days ago a manifesto issued by the latest body of the pro-aggressive party in Johannesburg, warn- ing England in the old solemn tones of the abysses of trouble and misfortune before her if she ventured upon the policy of being fair to all. It is the old story over again. The tone to-day is slightly changed, but the tale is the same. Persuade England by bogey, and govern the Transvaal by the stick. "The key of English supremacy in South Africa is to gerrymander the constituencies in the Transvaal " that is what you are told. '* You must keep the stick over the Dutchman," one of the most noted of the pro - aggressives remarked to me a few months ago : " The industry must be main- tained at all costs." " Concessions are only signs of weakness." " A strong majority for the Liberals in England will be ominous for South Africa." This and much more of the same. I listened in silence. There is 206 From Naboth's Vineyard little use in speaking to people who will talk thus, at this time of day. No use in quoting history, or in pointing to Ireland, Canada, Dutch traditions or English precedents. The late Lord Salisbury defined England's policy in the Far East by a happy phrase : It was " the policy of the open door." The pro-aggressive programme in South Africa is equally easy of definition. It is "the policy of the open sore." The Healing Art is tabooed. Continue the blister. "In order to be strong you must be unjust. If you find yourself entering upon quicksands and quagmires, do not turn back." Of course the men who speak or write in this fashion are not fools they are very far removed from that catalogue. They are only gamblers players of bridge. The thing that used to be called statesmanship is with them a game. You must not lose the "trick." It is a happy expression the card that is on the table at the moment must be beaten, no matter how terrible may be the cost the day after to-morrow. Another cigar, and the next generation may look out for itself. Posterity has not dealt us 207 From Naboth's Vineyard any cards. No ! but it may possibly have an interest in our games. A " bridge " is sometimes a short cut. The absent-minded beggar was supposed to have played an important part in the late war. He has put on some of his clothes and got back a little of his mind since, but he is still largely on horseback both in England and in South Africa, and this "bridge "business may take him to his time-honoured destination sooner than he supposes. Six or seven months ago, when I reached South Africa, the situation was a very interesting one. The pro-aggressive party was preparing to move into the strongly entrenched position which had been prepared months before, in anticipation of the defeat of their friends at the coming general election in England. All the administrative blockhouses in the land, from Table Moun- tain to the Limpopo, were already occupied. The most aggressive stalwarts held the chief strategic points on the map of Government. The shelter-trenches of racial animosity had already been dug, and it only remained for the field army to move in and take possession 208 From Naboth's Vineyard of the position, from which the coming Liberal Government was to find itself attacked checkmated, confused, and con- founded in its new-born efforts at liberty and conciliation. At first no quarter was to be given. The extreme mood did not last. Signs of blandishment appeared Het Volk was approached. He was taken up to the top of the Corner House and shown the wonderful mountains of the magnates and the golden vales that lie among them. It was thought that he would fall down and worship the great calf. But he didn't. In spite of the predictions of the most trusted leader of the pro -aggressive party, Het Volk was not to be caught. " Het Volk," had said this great leader, " will not save you from mammon." That was only a few months ago, and Het Volk is still at large. Then the mode of the aggressives changed again. It was decided to send this deputa- tion to England. I have read its prospectus or programme with some of the interest of old times. The light of other days still shines through it, but a note more of sorrow than of anger also pervades it. Were 209 P From Naboth's Vineyard the oceans of blood and the mints of money to be spilt and spent in vain ? it asked. I glanced through the list of names in an appendix to the document. The birthplaces and professions of these gentle- men were given in separate columns. " Auctioneer," " Barrister-at-law," " Finan- cier," " Mining Engineer," " Agent," " Baker," " Contractor," " Medico," and at last " Speculator." What! only two "specu- lators " among twenty-seven candidates for parliamentary fame on the Rand ! It was quite like old times. One re- membered the tale of the laughter which used to shake the festive board in the mansion near Cape Town in these months in early '99 when the telegrams were being prepared at these pleasant Sunday evening reunions for transmission to the London newspapers. This document was for home consumption too. It used to be said of the Egyptian Delta that if you tickled it with a hoe it would laugh into a harvest ; but on the Rand we do better. There you tickle with a telegram and you laugh into un- limited liabilities. If the crash comes and 210 From Naboth's Vineyard I can see no prospect of avoiding it "the South Sea Bubble will have every chance of being repeated here " that was one of the last observations made to me in Johan- nesburg. Whatever the present Govern- ment may do or not do, they will be blamed. They have had no more to say to the exist- ing conditions of economic depression on the Rand or to the general chaos of life there than the man in the moon, but they will be blamed by the lunatics all the same. Give South Africa the most favourable mind of your ruling, but after you have secured the safety of the fundamental facts upon which the Empire stands to-day. When you have made safe those principles of Free Labour, Equal Justice, and Equal Rights which have done more, and are doing more, for the acceptance of our sove- reignty than all the armies and fleets at our command then leave her alone. " Men," wrote Burke, one hundred and fifty years ago, " do not live upon blotted paper : the favourable or the unfavourable mind of the ruling is of more consequence to a nation than the black letter of any statute." 211 From Naboth's Vineyard But the ruling must be wholly and entirely true. No gerrymandering ; no tongue in cheek ; no old raiders in command or in Council; above all no "stick." And as for the painter, you may make your minds quite easy. An old Boer recently gave a friend of mine the following message : " Tell them in England," he said, " that if those chaps up in Jo'burg want to cut the painter, we'll not ask England to send us out any rifles. Send us a shipload of shamboks, and we'll answer for the painter." These are some of the reasons why, I think, South Africa wants little legislation from us. She has been in the seething-pot a long while. Her imported "statesmen" would never let her out of it if they could. That is one of the many methods by which they flourish. If the financial barometer only rose they would have a poor time of it. When it falls they rake in the harvest all the faster. They can make it rise when it suits them. And there are other reasons. The longer I watch the world the more convinced I am that the Devil gets the first of everything. 212 From Naboth's Vineyard " I was conceived in iniquity," says David. The Devil got away with a good start when gold and diamonds were discovered in South Africa, and another long lead when the cable was laid. For quite twenty years he has had the course almost to himself. The wheels of God grind more slowly in South Africa than elsewhere. But I think I can discern signs that the term of this long possession is nearing its end. The under- pillars of the great Temple of Mammon are being taken away one by one. You cannot continue the " oxygen process " for ever. You will have to come back to the normal and healthy respirations of free and honest labour. Servile labour, forced labour, cruel treatment of natives these moral cancers can be cured by the Rontgen rays of a free Press and by the strength of the honest vote that is in South Africa. For twenty years you have been cultivat- ing the weeds ; let the flowers have a chance at last. The natural strength of the patient's constitution is superb. How she has stood the successive waves of bounderism which have been flung upon her is the greatest 213 From Naboth's Vineyard wonder I have ever known. There must be a future in store for a people who have been able to maintain their moral equilibrium amid such a social deluge, and please bear in mind that there are many unobtrusive ways and kindly methods by means of which you may get into the hearts of these people again. A gracious and courageous English lady is at this moment doing more in Johan- nesburg to undo some of the most terrible effects of the recent war than all the huge machinery of the bacteriologist and the serumist can ever compass.* To get into the hearts of the people of South Africa the real people you will have to face many things the abuse of the privi- leged, the hatred of the unlawful possessor, the calumny of the monopolist, the envy of the unjust, even the ridicule of the hired songster. Never mind the recompense will be worth it all. It will be the one bit of legitimate and lasting Empire-building which you will have achieved since the creation of Canada. IRELAND, 2nd August, 1906. Miss Hobhouse. 214 XVIII TO summarize conclusions arrived at during a recent survey of South African affairs is not an easy task. Like the JEgean Sea, where every island is said to have its own particular wind, so in South Africa every Colony has its own sepa- rate and particular difficulty, political, terri- torial, and economic. The Black difficulty is alone common to all, but even it varies in intensity, according to locality. I shall in this letter attempt to tie into one bundle the most pressing among these incongruous troubles. Chinese labour should never have been introduced into the Transvaal. Of all places on the globe, South Africa is the very last spot upon which experiments should be tried. "It is a moral volcano," said an old and very experienced Consul-General to me. " England should keep a political seismo- graph on the top of Table Mountain, and 215 From Naboth's Vineyard she should send out her best seismographic statesman to take charge of it." I have said that the Chinese coolie in the Rand mines was " as oxygen to a sick man. Stop it and he sinks." This is true of the moment. We administer oxygen only as a temporary stimulant pending the application of lasting relief. You cannot go on with this temporary artificial gas-bag for ever attached to your head. What permanent remedy, then, is to be tried? In order to propound the cure we must understand the disease. The disease is over-capitalization, over-speculation, over-gambling, over every- thing ; and Chinese labour is the direct result of this plethora of insensate Eiffel- towerism. Before you will get the machine into running order you will have to reduce the top hamper. You must, in fact, un- inflate. In this Chinese experiment you are only flinging good money after bad. The bag of oxygen will burst in the end, and you will be worse off than you were before. In fact, it has burst already if the truth about it were allowed to be told. The whole of the mobile portion of the Transvaal and Orange 216 From Naboth's Vineyard River Colony Constabulary engaged in watching the Chinese coolies on the Rand, and the whole of the inhabitants in the sur- rounding districts lying down in terror of their lives every night that is a high price to pay even for oxygen. Let me describe one experience. While motoring in March last from Johannesburg to Pretoria night fell upon us about ten miles out from the former place. The track was lost ; at last we saw a farmhouse, and stopped to inquire the road. There was much rumbling of the inmates inside, and it was some time before a door was opened preparations were being made against the dreaded Celestial marauders. An hour later we were compelled to halt for the night in the open veld. " You might leave the lamps burning," I said to the chauffeur. " I will read the newspapers." " I dare not," he replied; "the lights will show our where- abouts to the Chinamen." People get tired of living under conditions such as these. Nor has this Chinese experiment been even an economic success. The yellow labour is admittedly more expensive than 217 From Naboth's Vineyard the black. Of course, with the addition of forty or fifty thousand more hands, the out- put of gold is greater than it used to be ; but it is produced at a relatively higher cost. " There is more labour, less profit " as the depth increases, so naturally does the cost of working. All that I have explained in a previous letter. But there is a point which I have not touched upon. The effort of the mine manager must naturally be to show profits ; that of the director must equally be to pay dividends. These things can only be done by getting the gold out of the rock, and delivering it in England at the lowest cost. Hence with this increasing depth you will have increasing curtailments of the more expensive forms of labour, and you will also have increasing efforts on the part of the mine management to get back by means of shops, within and without the compounds, and by other means, as much of their men's wages as possible. Now, the interest of commercial Johannes- burg is the opposite of this. Roughly speak- ing, the wage-bill of the mines cannot be less than from ^"10,000 to .15,000 a day. That 218 From Naboth's Vineyard is part of the harvest of which South Africa expects to get its share. Hence will come the tug-of-war between town and magnate, and between white and yellow. If the town is not to have its share, then, so far as the shopkeeper is concerned, the mines might just as well be in Peru, and so, too, as far as South Africa is concerned. Of course, free labour would kill all these undergrowths and "trucks," which are the results of semi-slavery. Can free labour be achieved? I believe it to be perfectly possible. I believe that village colonies can be started for natives in the neighbourhood of the mines. These might be of two kinds (a) villages wherein families would settle permanently ; (b) locations into which men would come for certain stated periods, and to which their wives could also come. These settlements might be situated at points within ten miles of the mines the men coming to and returning from their work by train and the work might further be estab- lished on the day-onand day-off shift system, which would alone probably suffice to reduce the now terribly high death-rate by fifty per 219 From Naboth's Vineyard cent. That is an item of which little is said when this labour problem is written about. Yet from the workman's point of view it means a good deal. The official records show that out of some 90,000 "boys," 33 died above ground, against 296 below ground, in a stated period, the mortality below being nine times larger than [that above. Is it any wonder, then, that the native should not be particularly keen to go down into these death caverns, or that he should desire to make the term of his labour contract as short as possible ? I have consulted a great many persons upon this labour question, and I believe that South Africa can supply its own labour wants from its own people but to do this the market must be cultivated in a different fashion from that which has hitherto been followed. Con- structive coercion must cease. To get to the mines and to return from them must be made an easier and a safer process than it is at present. To reach the mines now the "boy " has many troubles to encounter, and he often arrives at his destination thin, tired, and broken. His return journey is subject 220 From Naboth's Vineyard to even harder conditions. He has his savings about him. The prey is richer ; the harpy and the "friend "are more assiduous. And another point the maimed of the mines must not be cast adrift without some com- pensation for their injuries. I repeat, the introduction of Chinese labour is directly due to the over-capitalization of mines and to the dram-drinking of specula- tion. Not content with the present, Johan- nesburg has dealt prodigiously with the future. Unable to find employment for a considerable part of its present inhabitants, it has nevertheless bought and laid out prospective townships for miles and miles beyond its suburbs. It began early to dis- count and to forestall that population of two millions, which one of its most trusted prophets, at the conclusion of the war, assured the world it was to possess. As you travel now through " the illimitable " you are reminded of these great expectations by wooden boards more or less decayed (imaginary streets) bearing upon them the names of some prophet much honoured in his own country, out of whose confident and 221 From Naboth's Vineyard colossal predictions not one solitary gleam of truth has yet been evolved. To keep level with the intellectual con- dition produced by prophecy, speculations, booms, and flotations are resorted to. Hopes of dividends deferred have to be kept alive by endless experiments you have to be eternally "looping the loop." If you stop, the loop might perhaps loop you, but so long as the booms continue it is all easy going. Let me explain things a little. The mines of the Witwatersrand are now under what is called the group system. A group consists of, say, eight mines. We will call them A, B, C, D, E, F, G, and H all these subsidiary or sectional mines are directed and controlled by one central body. They are nominally separate and distinct entities so far as the outside shareholder is concerned, but internally they are collectively directed. The central body gives the general law to all. It orders machinery for any mine it pleases. It can develop A, B, and C of the group, retard the development of D, E, and F, or hold in reserve G and H. It somewhat resembles that great army corps 222 From Naboth's Vineyard conception of which we heard so much a few years ago ; or for the benefit of those who are less intellectually endowed, it might be compared to the old game of the pea under the thimble, played with millions in place of peas, and with the general public for audience, standing seven thousand miles away from the table. It needs but little expert knowledge to see, in some degree at least, the advan- tages which this group system confers upon the central or controlling body. Labour can be allotted here and withheld there ; money spent or curtailed. The goods as it were may be withdrawn from three of the windows, and put into the other five. That is where duplication of directors has its advantages. As for the general public they are absent, and from time immemorial the absent have been in the wrong. They have always believed that they knew under what par- ticular thimble the pea was, but that is precisely what they didn't know, even when they stood quite close to the table. At last at long last the general public "stand out," as it is called, from this gigantic Johannesburg table from pure satiety of 223 From Naboth's Vineyard disaster. Then begin the various experi- mental devices of which Chinese labour was the most notable. What is to happen ? Perhaps the easiest, and certainly the quickest, solution would be to write off, let us say, one hundred millions of over capital, and come down to true values. That would put the vessel on a level keel at once ; but even in that case the mischief would probably begin again, and the public would flock to the table with the old results. The most pressing requirement seems to me to be the establishment on the Witwatersrand of some absolutely trustworthy and entirely independent body of officials, who would, as it were, stamp these concerns with a sort of hall-mark of official approval. Proprietors of hidden treasure, no matter how patriotic may be their motives, should not be left to determine, unaided, the values of the various properties on the Rand which they are good enough to offer to share with British and other investors of course, for a consideration. Up to the present the British public have been content to pay the pipers and to forego 224 From Naboth's Vineyard their claim to the tune. The pipers have played some very lively airs, and the public danced some remarkable measures, which on the whole have left them, say, a hundred millions of pounds to the bad. And not the least curious thing about the matter is that the pipers are still unsatisfied. "Seamen," said Swift, "have a custom when, they meet a whale, to fling out an empty tub by way of amusement to divert him from laying violent hands upon the ship." The past twenty years have seen a good many tubs thrown out by the navigators of South Sea finance for the amusement of whales and others in those parts. It is a practice which would seem to be worthy of some watching on the part of the others. It would be a wise precaution, I think, to establish on this ridge of the white waters an Inspectorship of Tubs, just to ascertain the soundness of the staves and the proper flotation strength of the completed vessels. The sooner Johannesburg gets down to its natural labour level to its true economic basis the earlier will be its recrudescence to real prosperity. The subjoined little 225 Q From Naboth's Vineyard 3rd Oct., 1899. 2oth Oct., 1899 Rand Mines .. 27| .. 3 8 J Goldfields .. sl .. 7* Modders ... 7 ioi East Rand... 4| 7l Chartered ... 2A .. 3*. table of values and "booms" tells its own story a very sad story when everything is remembered. The week before the war, the week after the war began, and to-day Exchange quotations for the five under-men- tioned stocks stood and stand as follows : 3* There are sermons in stocks as well as in stones. The common law of life in the world has been that they who fail should fall back. No men have ever failed more conspicuously than they who essayed to steer England through " the white waters " of the Trans- vaal. Into what a sewer of mud and filth has she not been led ! And they would still claim to hold the helm ! But these things are only details in that great native question which dominates all South Africa. I could write many letters on * The original shares of this mine have been subdivided since 1899, so the price quoted to-day does not represent actual value. 226 From Naboth's Vineyard this question. Once for all, you may take it from me that the native in Natal and elsewhere has many and grievous causes and reasons for discontent, and that these causes are daily becoming more acute. You may also take it as certain that there is a considerable portion among the white popu- lation to whom a war with the natives would have many attractions. These persons would be quite ready to repeat the policy of the "goad," to which I have referred in an earlier letter as that which was pursued after the failure of the Raid towards the Dutch. It seems as though South Africa must always have some particular form of cruci- fixion going on within its limits. " The English protect us only to eat us," was a saying common among the Kaffirs forty years ago. A man and a magnate, but a man of perspicacity and a magnate of the widest experience, said to me in Pretoria the words which I give below "There is trouble ahead in South Africa with the natives, to which the Boer war was child's play. I have known the natives for 227 From Naboth's Vineyard nearly forty years. At the present moment I employ some three thousand of them directly, and perhaps thirty thousand in- directly. I have always got on well with the natives. Men whom I employed thirty years ago still send their children and grand- children to work for me. The war has been a bad lesson to the natives. It put thoughts into their heads such as they never knew before. It was all thieving and cheating. Ten years at the outside will bring this crash." I wrote down the words after the con- versation took place, and I give them now as they were then written. " What should be done?" I asked. "You should send out a Commission," he replied, "of some four or five good men not a Commission in a hurry, but one that would go through the land Colony by Colony seeing for themselves the natives. Then, when they have done this, let them meet a couple of representatives from each Colony, and let them all decide upon the native policy which should be adopted for South Africa a simple, just, and firm policy. Remember the blacks are moving rapidly. They are 228 From Naboth's Vineyard no longer children, and fast as they have been moving during the last ten years, they will go still faster in the coming decade." It is sometimes strange to discover how very old in the world are the things which we imagine belong only to our own time. Take this question of Black and White labour, as I have spoken of it in Natal, in a recent letter. Here is an extract from a letter written by a Governor of St. Helena to his directors, under date May, 1717 " Some blacks we have taught to lay stones, but joynery or carpentery we cannot have them taught, the Europeans will not show them ; they talk among themselves that teaching a black is a hindrance to their trades, and that they shall be less depended on if they show the blacks their art." Old Natal has been writing to me signify- ing its general approval of what I have been saying in these letters, but telling me at the same time that young Natal does not see eye to eye with me on many questions. I had not hoped for universal acquiescence. I remembered a little story related to me in Durban a few months ago. "Who is 229 From Naboth's Vineyard that old chap ? " young Natal inquired of another youngster as they stood on the steps of the palatial edifice the Town Hall of the city. The venerable gentleman referred to was one of Natal's oldest and most respected Colonists a member of the Upper House of Legislature, a municipal councillor of the first order, a man whose name had been, and is still, associated with philanthropy and progress in the land. "That," said young Natal, as his eyes followed the direction of his questioner's glance, "That old bloke is, I think, Charley Sanderson's father." And old Natal, who told me the story with some- thing of that " tear and smile in the eye " which is supposed to be peculiar to the Celtic temperament, descended the remain- ing steps of the palace which had been the theatre of his life-labour, and went his way, doubting whether he would not have done more to hand his name down to futurity if he had devoted himself (like Charley) exclusively to football. IRELAND, August, 1907. 230 XIX THE life of man must always lie between two nights the night of the past, which darkens slowly backwards from his yesterdays into com- plete oblivion, and that still more im- penetrable darkness of the future, which has scarcely a moment's dawn to herald the sunrise of its to-morrows. The bit of daylight at which man can catch has a good deal of artificial light now mixed with its smoke and fog, but day by day the pace becomes more rapid there is less time to note the signboards or watch the road- turns. The steering that used to be called statesmanship becomes more haphazard, forecast grows rarer, recollection has become well-nigh impossible. The moment is gone before its lesson can be laid to heart right and wrong quickly lose their relative perspectives, and get mixed together in unresolvable proportions ; long before the 231 From Naboth's Vineyard public can adjust their glasses the track- coverers have swept the course. The pieces are no longer in position. "It is all old history," you will be told ; "it is no use looking back. See, there are other heads already coming up out of the East." Nevertheless "old history " has disagree- able ways of repeating itself when its lessons have been ignored, or its dead too hastily interred. The heads coming up in the sun- rise would sometimes seem to have tails that connect strangely with graves upon which the sun has set. Let us exhume a little. In a phrase famous at the time of its utterance, but which has long been relegated to the convenient limbo in which it is hoped political falsities may be forgotten, the late Lord Salisbury declared that England wanted neither new goldfields nor additional territory. Everybody was struck with the profound truth of this statement. Men believed it not only because of the man who made it, or of the important occasion upon which it was uttered, but still more because of the inherent common sense and truth which appeared to be in it. England 232 From Naboth's Vineyard had already accumulated more gold than she seemed to be able to commercially digest and she possessed larger territories than she could conveniently administer. Her Govern- ment could get about a hundred and five golden sovereigns for a bit of paper upon which they had written a promise to pay at some future time one hundred pounds sterling. As to territory, her Press, pulpits, and platforms were constantly resounding with dissertations upon what was called "the white man's burden." "The load was more," they said, "than man could carry." There is nothing strange in politics or diplomacy in the fact that statements, so deliberately made, and so widely believed, should, within a few months, have been falsified and discredited. The strangeness of the thing lay in the after-part as usual the pith was in the postscript, the moral at the end of the fable. It is just seven years since this famous declaration was made. We will see how the gold side of the account stands to-day. The bit of paper then worth a hundred and five pieces of gold is now 233 From Naboth's Vineyard worth eighty-five ; yet that measure of depre- ciated value is far from representing the fall in other securities. I have recently heard it stated that the estate of the late Mr. Beit, now valued at ,7,000,000, would have realized ^13,000,000 sterling in October, 1899. These are useful straws to pick out of the stream and lay by for future guidance, before the teaching of these seven disastrous years has been entirely washed from the national memory. A great student of history has told us that the tax-collector was the best schoolmaster, and as that functionary is likely to hold his chair of philosophy in the national university for some years to come, it is possible that the political char- woman and the track-coverer will find it difficult in the next septennial to entirely obliterate the lesson. Even make-believe must have limits. Little by little England is learning some- thing about the real motives and objects of the small knot of persons who pushed, or dragged her into war seven years ago. Commissions and Committees, sometimes in spite of themselves, have lifted some portion 234 From Naboth's Vineyard of the curtain upon the secret stage of that time. Many of the chief actors have dis- appeared. Others have been caught ere they could reach the slips ; a few are still happily left before the footlights. The important fact to note is that South Africa knows more about the secret history of her war than England knows or can ever know. South Africa has had a keen eye for noting both absences and presences. She noted, for instance, years ago, that neither of the two most potent of the human factors in the production of her war was called before the Royal Commission on that war. She will tell you, too, of some curious appearances or coincidences in connection with her Raid, which more distant spectators of that notorious incident possibly missed. She will tell you of the strange appearance of two additional battalions of infantry in her ports during the precise week of the Jameson Raid, one regiment coming from the Far East, the other from an almost equally remote West strange birds of passage, whose fortuitous flights must have begun many weeks before. 235 From Naboth's Vineyard In England we dwell too near the moun- tains of administration to be able to see the summits. You have to get six or seven thousand miles away in order to realize the Himalayan altitudes to which the ambitions of some of the Babel-builders of recent years attained. What annexations and partitions ! what disappearances from the map of South- Eastern Africa were to follow upon the supposed facile conquest of the two small Dutch Republics ! the general smashing of European furniture consequent upon the menace of manner-mending made about the time when the war was prematurely said to be " over." These things are past, but it is well for us to bear in mind, not what our next gene- ration will know, but rather what the present generation in South Africa already knows ; for it is in that knowledge that the crux of our difficulty in the future government of the country will lie. There is, in fact, no equal plane of knowledge between the two peoples, and there never has been any such equality of knowledge between them. Good 236 From Naboth's Vineyard care was taken to prevent the attainment of that equal level. I repeat that the possibility of making our Dutch fellow-subjects in South Africa forgive is altogether a matter of our own policy and statesmanship in the immediate future. Something will have to be done beyond a mere avowal of wrong. Such confessions are good so far as they go, but more will be necessary before the foundation of a true system of conciliation can be laid. Remember, you are not dealing with a cowed or broken race. The Boer of South Africa has made himself a name second to none, now or in the past. He has beaten or equalled the old records, and if he was conquered in the end, it was after two and a half years of incessant fighting, when it required half a million men and 300 millions of money to vanquish his forty or fifty thousand farmer-folk. And do not imagine that you are going to change the nature of such men by any new system of school- teaching which you may try to introduce among them. You might better strive to alter the iron features of this vast wilderness 237 From Naboth's Vineyard uproot those million redstone kopjes, and overturn the colossal Table Mountains of the land. " Nature goes her own gait, and puts the wisest in the wrong," wrote the great American. Assuredly the men who coun- selled or cajoled England into that miserable war were not the wise ones. These Boer leaders will hold a place in history when a thousand prominent persons of to-day will be only remembered for their failures, or forgotten in their follies. " Remember Milo's end, Wedged in that timber which he strove to rend." All that these eminent persons have been able to effect has been to strengthen and solidify the Boer character. He knows now what he can do. Previous to the war he did not dream of his own capacity. They who imagined themselves the architects of a great dominion of Mammon in South Africa have found they were merely the accoucheurs destined to bring forth from a hitherto barren womb soldiers, and states- men, whose names the world cannot let die. In that half desert-land, where the fountains 238 From Naboth's Vineyard well at long intervals and the great rocks give far-apart shade to the traveller, the old world, long thirsty for the old heroisms, will during many an age refresh itself and grow young again in the sight or at the story of that resistance. It is England that may have to learn from the Boer not the Boer from England. We had forgotten what he remembered. Half a dozen little ships sailed from Holland two or three hundred years ago, and they carried to these stony kopjes the seedlings of the stuff that was to put a new soul into our time. Is it that God sends the antidote ages before the Devil breeds the poison, and is that the way in which God wins in the end ? Here is a glimpse into a Boer interior which has been rebuilt in some shanty fashion after the war : " Visitor : * How are you faring ? ' Boer : 4 Wife dead, four children dead in the camps, old house burned down, cattle all taken, water-dam destroyed ; but things are well. God is here still.' " We had forgotten that last bit. 239 From Naboth's Vineyard You cannot destroy God in this wonderful land. What entire waste of time it is for our poor Babel-builders to try that game in a country where ten thousand Tafel Kops wear crowns of gold at every morning sun- rise and evening sunset in the year ! It was said by the wise ones during the war that when the Dutch farmers lost their indepen- dence they would also give up their God. But the wise ones were no nearer the truth in that than in a thousand other prophecies. The Dutch farmers often beat our troops in action, but they never beat their God in the darkest hour of their own defeat. Yes. I would make friends with these people if I could. I would also give back to the Cape Colony that .30,000 a year which a Bond Government voted as a con- tribution to the Imperial Navy in the end of 1898, or early in '99. This act of reparation might be earmarked " For the exclusive benefit of the victims of the war." It might be called an act of resti- tution, because it was given at the time under a misapprehension, and it was received under simulated pretences. Such an act of 240 From Naboth's Vineyard reparation would bear us interest in the future out of all proportion to its market value to-day. Who will have the temerity, looking at the past of this land, to say, What next? Only this much whatever South Africa is to be, its men and women will love her still. Their mothers' travail will make her sons and daughters cling closer to her, and the sons and daughters are coming again into the land. Often when I stopped at the site of a once comfortable homestead in the Transvaal, and a Boer and his wife came to the low door of the barn or outhouse which was now their dwelling, two or three little heads looked out from between the knees of the man, and perhaps another nestled on the woman's breast; so, too, I saw the same round faces tumbled among the beds of some trekking waggon in Northern Zululand. That was one picture. Later on I saw another. I left South Africa in a steamer, which called at the islands, and I transhipped into a second boat en route; both vessels had their steerage and third-class decks filled with men of the 241 R From Naboth's Vineyard artisan and miner class, many of whom were making their way to California, to help in rebuilding San Francisco. These were of the class who, in the old pre-war days, had been flocking into the Transvaal, who were then making from thirty to forty pounds a month, who, in the language of the reformers, " didn't care a fig for the franchise," but who, in spite of their contentment and pros- perity, were, in the diplomatic and academic verbiage of the day, designated "helots." Of course they are all free men now, free to go where they like ; but, nevertheless, in their own curt phraseology, they are "stone broke." I met, too, in the islands, some outward- bound boats. The majority of the few passengers on their decks were Continental Jews, bound for the towns; while the English workman and artisan come away from South Africa, the Polish and Gallician Jews flock there. And as it is with the State, so it is with the Church. The new English cathedral in Cape Town, the foun- dation-stone of which was laid with great ceremony by Royalty six years ago, is still 242 From Naboth's Vineyard only a few feet above the ground, and work is entirely stopped upon it. A couple of hundred yards away a great double-towered synagogue, whose foundation-stone was laid only three years ago, lifts its finished build- ing. In South Africa to-day the synagogue is everywhere a conspicuous edifice. The larger cities have two or more temples. That is well ; but if in the future another Shylock should desire to arrange a meeting- place for his messenger, he will have to tell his Tubal the name of the street, as well as the synagogue. This letter is the last I am likely to write about South Africa in this place. More than thirty years have passed since I first saw that land, and put pen to paper in its service. At that time the whole vast sub- continent lay in profound peace, a condition in which it had reposed for about twenty years before. Two battalions of Infantry sufficed for garrison neither Cavalry nor Artillery were there. A few police preserved order ; race animosities had almost entirely died out ; Englishmen represented many if not most, of the Dutch constituencies ; 243 From Naboth's Vineyard inter-marriages between the races were of constant occurrence. The secret of this success was a simple one the land and its peoples had been let alone ; our rulers had forgotten their old South African oar for more than a score of years. All at once this mood changed, the oar was got out from where it had lain in the bottom of the boat. Unfortunately, like that of the Picts and Scots of old, it was a " hostile oar," and the sea of South African politics soon "foamed" beneath its stroke. Ever since that day it has been storm and boiling billow in these Southern waters, and fully half a dozen times in these thirty-odd years South Africa has been "wet with blood." At long last they seem disposed to put that oar into the boat again. LONDON, October ; 1906. 244 XX DAWN at Glencoe junction. Cold and raw, for we are more than four thousand feet above sea-level, and April in South Africa is as October in England. The Indian (Madras) railway porters and pointsmen look a yellow-green. There is half an hour before the Dundee train starts ; time to look around. Clos e against the junction to south, Indumeni in the Biggarsberg range is catching signals from the sunrise ; through the range the line we have come disappears into hills, going south to Ladysmith twenty-five miles. Looking east to the sunrise, the houses of Dundee are visible seven miles away. In these seven miles lay the initial mistake in the war of 1899. Here at Glencoe junction was the true military position, an unequalled one ; small rounded hills on both sides of the railway, flanks secure, direct communication by road and rail straight in rear through 245 From Naboth's Vineyard the Biggarsberg to Ladysmith. Going to the end of these seven miles to Dundee, instead of stopping here at Glencoe, probably cost England two hundred millions sterling. An initial error of the first magnitude made in the opening move in war can never be wholly recovered. The sun begins to show over Talanna Hill, two miles beyond Dundee, and with the growing light the whole theatre of these opening moves in the late war is revealed. Talanna runs at right angles to the Biggars. berg, a " nek " connecting the two ; then Talanna dips again on the north, only to rise into a bigger hill, Umpati by name ; and then the Umpati circles round by the north- west until its western flank comes out upon the railway running northwards from Glencoe to Newcastle, the whole of the hills enclosing Dundee within a saucer-shaped depression commanded on every side. Train starts for Dundee down slope all the way. Dundee usual little Natal town, two hotels, three churches. Breakfast. Old coloured man, Adam, ready with "spider" trap and four horses. Start for N'Gutu at 246 From Naboth's Vineyard nine, out over gap at south end of Talanna. Adam shows battlefield. Down from nek into great plain of Buffalo river and round eastern end of Biggarsberg to Vant's Drift twenty miles. Dine at small inn and Kaffir- store combined ; civil people. Cross Buffalo and enter Zululand. Another two cr three hours to N'Gutu. Hot; mostly uphill all the way. Begin thinking many thoughts, as Adam takes his team up the long slopes from Buffalo river. There, a few miles south, that dark ridge marks Rorke's Drift ; there to left of dark ridge rises a curious abrupt cone Isandulwana by name. Every now and again Adam stops his horses and turns their heads round so that the cool breeze can blow into their panting nostrils. It is at these times that he points out the land-marks and names them. It is all a vast panorama of old wars ; wars between Zulus and Dutch, between English and Zulus, between Dutch and English. There in the valley of the Blood river was fought the great battle between the emigrant Dutch from the Cape Colony and the Impis of Dingaan, the Zulu king. There on the 247 From Naboth's Vineyard right is Isandulwana, where Lord Chelms- ford's army of invasion was annihilated. There away to the left in the hot haze of the north lies Zlobane and Kambula and Vryheid Nek. Behind the Biggersberg is Lady- smith with its host of later memories what a story it would all make ! " From Isandul- wana to Majuba, and round by Spion Kop to Colenso." The man who first named the land "Tormentoso" knew what he was doing. We reach N'Gutu at 4.30 o'clock. The sun is blazing down on the little flat table- land where stands Mr. Barklies' store and inn. Same story all along the road from Durban to this spot. Natives wrongly treated ; the promises made to them in the war broken. Blank colonel of horse nothing but a common cattle-raider. He makes ten or twenty thousand pounds by selling stolen cattle to the Commissariat. His white under- raiding-captains get two or three hundred each ; the natives who did most of the looting get nothing. That is one cause of discontent ; but there are many others. Petty lawyer-folk prey like vultures upon them. Trade is bad ; everybody is 248 From Naboth's Vineyard poorer than before the war. The fortunes made then were nearly all put into Johannes- burg mines and lost. Jews have got every- thing ; we looted the Boers, and the Jews looted us. One is struck by the number of statesmen one meets everywhere in South Africa ; statesmen in trains and on platforms, but particularly numerous in hotels. Warriors and military critics also abound. "If General had only done so and so, things would have been different in the war ; " or, " I told Sir blank blank, ' If you will just go round by the Jingo-berg, and take old Joubert in the rear,"' etc., etc. Listening to all this, one begins to understand how it was that South America was so prolific in presidents forty years ago. This southern hemisphere grows tall human growths naturally. The ordinary agricultural man doesn't do so well. Strange country. I met a man in a train last week. He has two hundred thousand acres of land he has splendid land but his sheep die of fatty de- generation ; lost sixty-seven the week before last. He has waggon-loads of fruit, but he 249 From Naboth's Vineyard can't get it to market peaches, nectarines, apricots, all rotting under the trees ; milk, butter, in the same plenty, but no market. Is only sixty-seven miles from Johannesburg, where things are at famine prices. Contra- dictions from top to bottom. The morning I reached Johannesburg three inches of rain fell in four hours ; no rain had fallen for three months, the whole country hard as a road; now the whole roads soft as rivers. Twenty-four hours later dust blowing again. Natal was a pleasant place of residence in the old days before the feverish finance of the mines had upset its mental equili- brium. Home -life now impossible to a young couple ; cheaper to send wife and child to England, and to live one's self at the club, or board in an hotel. Met a man again who had been transport conductor in the old Zulu war time. The night before Isandulwana "the oxen," he says, " wouldn't eat, kept lowing and pawing all night knew the Zulu Impis were all round." No one else knew it. " You did the blunder- ing, we did the plundering," another man said of that war. South Africa has a keen wit. 250 From Naboth's Vineyard From the high tableland of N'Gutu the traveller looks far over Zululand. Imme- diately below, to the east, lies Nondweni, the supposed site of gold and copper deposits. Rich mines were worked there a few years ago money made and lost then the reef or the lode was suddenly missed. We descend a long hill and reach the field ruined shafts, dismantled shanties, holes and rubbish-heaps on every side. It was said that the place is still rich, and that the lodes and reefs were lost only to be found again later on, when Johannesburg thinks that the precise moment has arrived. From Nondweni to the place of our destination there is no track. Adam steers across the undulating veld, as his great ancestor and namesake might have steered when he left Eden. Numerous dongas cross our course ; but while we descend and climb in and out of them, Adam takes them with his four-in- hand in that quiet, dextrous driving which only South Africa knows. At last, from the crest of a ground-wave, we look into a large, bare, and shallow valley, in the centre of which appears a solitary group 251 From Naboth's Vineyard of dark trees. This speck of tree -life in the bare brown wilderness marks the spot where the Prince Imperial of France was slain by a small band of Zulus seven- and-twenty years ago. That spot has been the object of this journey. Three or four dongas and we are there. The clump of trees fills the sharp angle of ground which two dongas, meeting at this point, make. These dongas are some eight feet in depth, and thirty feet from one bank to the other ; both are quite dry. A wall of dry stones encloses the trees, which have now grown to a height of about twenty feet. To the west and south the view is bounded by two large and long dark hills, a mile or two distant from where we stand ; cattle are grazing on the slopes ; patches of mealies are dotted about. Yellow grass covers the ground up to the foot of the bare hills ; the rounded beehive reed huts of a few Kaffir kraals are visible where the grass ends and the hills begin. A few natives are watching us from near the kraals. All the dongas and watercourses are dry ; but further off, to 252 From Naboth's Vineyard the north, a large river-channel, nearly dry, is visible, winding towards the north-east, carrying the drainage of the valley to the White Umfolossi River. We get over the low wall and enter the enclosure. It is of oval shape, twenty yards in length by ten across. In the centre, at the head of an oblong space filled with loose stones, stands a stone cross. The shadows of the trees make the interior of the enclosure dark in comparison with the ground without. The trees are oleanders, willows, jessamine, and a drooping kind of cypress, which chiefly gives the shade, and in the pendant branches of which many weaver birds have built their little grass, woven, hooded nests, with the opening like that of the wren ; but on the side away from the branch to which it is firmly attached, and from the extreme end of which it swings. Almost every branch of these cypress trees has a swinging nest attached to it. An inscription cut across the arms of the cross states that the body of the Prince Imperial was found at this spot, on the 2nd of June, 1879. He was killed here on the 253 From Naboth's Vineyard afternoon of the ist of June. He was twenty-three years of age. Two other graves marked by small wooden crosses are at the end of the enclosure on the west side. We go out into the open again. A few Zulus have come down from the kraals on the hill-sides, and they are gathered round our cart ; the horses are grazing along the sides of the donga. One of the Zulus, a man apparently about forty, begins to speak. He was a boy at the time that the young chief was killed here. He was minding cattle out from the kraal there to the west. He saw the party of horsemen come over the " nek " between the two hills, and stop and offsaddle at this spot where we are now standing ; other Zulus saw them too. From the kraal on the hill-side to the south, a party of young men crept down through the tall grass till they got into the bed of the river the Yootchu ; then they crept up that donga to a place where there was a patch of mealies, then through the mealies, and then they rushed in a body across the last bit of open ground fifty yards to 254 From Naboth's Vineyard the donga at this spot. By this time the Englishmen had saddled up, and were getting on their horses. The Zulus were about sixteen in number, and they had two or three guns among them. As they rushed in, the men who were already in their saddles galloped away in the direction from which they had come ; but there was one who had not yet mounted. The men who had guns fired at the men galloping away; one trooper fell from his horse a little way off, another dropped when he had got half way up to the nek ; but the young man stopped here fighting. " And where did the Zulu scout who was with the English party fall ? " I asked through a companion, who spoke and understood Zulu, for all the wretched particulars of that fatal day had been painfully familiar to me twenty-seven years earlier, gathered from the lips of men who were in the camp at Kopje Allien at the time, nine miles to the west ; and from some who had even belonged to the irregular corps which had given an escort for the reconnoitring officers on that day. The Zulu pointed to a mealie-patch 255 From Naboth's Vineyard five or six hundred yards distant. " The Zulu who was with the English fell there," he said. " Some of our men followed, and killed him with assegais." The man spoke his story straight and without any hesitation, and, comparing it since with the notes made at that time, his relation corresponded in all main particulars with the old narratives. I give these old notes as they were then written. "June ioth, 1879. Funeral of Prince Imperial winding down the Berea hill at sunset into Durban. The ocean, the Bluff, the ships, the town in mourning ; bands playing the " Dead March ; " the old servant (follows the bier) ; the groom tells me the particulars (as we walk). He saw the body : the sword-hand was clenched ; the wounds, very numerous, were all in front. There was a hill near (the scene of the fight), a kraal, a mealie field, a donga long grass and a spot of bare ground. rides away (the rest save one follow), the grey horse (the prince's) tries to follow (the others) ; the prince catches holster as he mounts, the leather breaks (tears like 256 From Naboth's Vineyard paper), and the grey horse gallops with the rest." "August nth, 1879. , of Betting- ton's Horse, tells me that the prince said to him, as they were leaving camp, ' Are you not coming?' 'No, sir.' 'Won't be in a fright ? ' " The body of the dead Zulu was found more than a mile away, assegaied. He had followed the flying escort that distance across two ridges in open country. Abel, a Dane's, body was found one hundred yards from place of fire ; Rogers, the other man killed, two hundred yards away. "When meets the four surviving troopers in camp, they tell him that the prince and two troopers and one Zulu are gone. '"Are you not ashamed to be here?' he asks. "'Well, sir, the captain legged it, and we followed,' they answer. " M. and S. both testify to the desperate resistance made by the prince. The boots were full of blood, showing how long a time he had fought standing. The ground where 257 s From Naboth's Vineyard he lay was all trampled over. The body was covered with wounds, five of which were mortal." We go into the enclosure again and examine it closely. There is not a deface- ment visible anywhere ; not a stone in the wall has been upset, not a name cut on a tree or scratched upon the headstone. The Zulus have scrupulously respected this lone monument set in their wilderness. We begin to talk to the Zulu again. He has succeeded the old man who was left in charge of the enclosure when the cross was erected here by Queen Victoria. He is in charge now. He has on an old military great-coat, and he carries in his hand the usual three or four knobkerries. He holds himself erect, looks you full in the face, speaks without the slightest hesitation, and uses action natural and graceful as he speaks. In the same old note-book in which I had jotted down the rough notes above given, I see other hastily entered memoranda of con- versations or occurrences which may fittingly find a place here, for they are not without a touch of that old-world chivalry in war, 258 From Naboth's Vineyard from which we seem to be getting farther away. " After Ulundi, Cetewayo said to his people, ' You have thrown your last assegai for me ; go, now, and do the best for your- selves.' He sent word to his chief Somapo, ' Give up to the white man all the cattle in your possession which belong to me keep not back a single one. Let the white man know that Cetewayo was once a king.' and , who were present at the capture of Cetewayo, in the N'Gome forest, say that the king came forth with dignity and majesty. , who was also there, describes his bearing as 'noble,' 'full of dignity,' ' a mag- nificent - looking man.' The tears rolled down his cheeks when he beheld Ulundi in ashes. He waved the spectators aside, those who had crowded too close upon him. At times it would seem as though his feelings would overcome him, and then he would bend down his head. Then by a great effort he would raise it again, and look around with calm and quiet dignity." And now for a glimpse at the other side. D. L. tells me that he never saw a more 259 From Naboth's Vineyard disgusting sight than at Ulundi after the fighting was over. The volunteers (irre- gulars) killed all the men who surrendered. A Zulu would spring from the grass and throw his hands up in token of surrender. Ten or a dozen shots would be fired at him. At last he would drop ; then, if the man was wounded, they would fire at him as he lay. , the correspondent of the London deliberately got off his pony and battered in the skull of a wounded Zulu with his carbine clubbed. This is the scoundrel who was with 's column. G. saw this deed, as did L., and 'both of us abused the rascal for it.' At least one hundred and fifty Zulus were killed in this manner by the irregulars, after the cavalry had made a circuit and cut off the Zulus." " L. says the English and colonial cut-throats were worse than the Basuto allies." Colonial wars are murder at the front and robbery at the base. And here is a little comment which the experience of another generation has not done much to contradict or change. "A curse seems to be over this land and over 260 From Naboth's Vineyard the rest of South Africa, seeming to forbid peace and civilization in it. Even the Church of England clergymen are quarrel- ling among themselves." I met a clergy- man lately who said that if Bishop died he would refuse to bury him ! We drove back to Nondweni and N'Gutu. The store at the first-named place is kept by a Frenchman, and in a Basuto hut on the site of an old gold-mine we found three mining engineers a Swede, a Norwegian, and an Englishman all living in perfect amity and friendship with the surrounding natives, not a dread about a Zulu rising. It is at Maritzburg, Durban, or at Dundee that you find scares existing. Here every- thing is peaceful. " But surely you won't go into Zululand at this crisis ! " said one of the ministers to me six days ago in Maritzburg. We are fifty miles into the country now, and there is profound peace everywhere. Strange land of paradox and contradictions. A week ago I was at the estate near Richmond, to which some of the twelve Zulus who were shot by sentence of Court Martial three days earlier, had come. The 261 s 3 From Naboth's Vineyard owner of that estate was entirely satisfied with the conduct of his natives. "A month ago," he said to me, " when the affray between the police and a party of natives occurred, and the panic and excitement was at its height, many of the farmers left their homes and sought refuge in the towns. Well, all the work upon their farms went on just as usual in their absence. Not a stick was stolen. The cows were milked, and the milk sent in to the creamery, as had been done when the masters and their families were present. Even the Madrassee servants were not alarmed, although the wildest rumours of murders and massacres were flying around. On one occasion two Madrassee servants, living by themselves in an out-of-the-way place, asked that they might be allowed to take a hay-fork with them for protection at night ! That was the extent of their defensive precautions." "Why was Martial Law rushed into?" I asked a high official. He gave one or two reasons in reply. "But," I said, "the Courts were sitting the King's writ ran ; special commissions were possible. There 262 From Naboth's Vineyard was no Martial Law during the old Zulu War. Even Judge Jeffrey's Bloody Assize was a Civil Court." Then the real answer came. "It would have been difficult to have brought home the killing of the police officers to any particular man." In all the sad history of South Africa few things are sadder than this Zulu question. Where the Zulu came no lock or key were necessary. No man who knew the Zulu not even the white colonist, whose rage was largely the result of his being unable to get servile labour from him could say that he had not found the Zulu honest, truthful, faithful ; that the white wife and child had not been entirely safe from insult or harm at the hands of this black man, or that money and property were not immeasurably more secure in Zulu charge than in that of Europeans or Asiatics. Here we had a people whose moral good- ness scrupulous regard for honest dealing and natural habits of restraint and discipline fitted them for civilized teaching and training in every branch of citizen and workman's handicraft. 263 From Naboth's Vineyard What a material was this to have worked upon ! What natural qualities upon which to engraft our higher knowledge ! Courage, truthfulness, brain power, honesty, and physical strength. What future hope for all black Africa lay in this tribe, placed at our doors, right in the path along which civilization might have been carried into the interior ! And all cast to the winds, trampled out, and destroyed, for the benefit, or at the bidding, of a mere handful of white settlers, consumed with an endless craving for the possession of the land and property of others. Of all the unnatural lusts and cravings which lie at the root of human misery, the thing we call "land hunger" is the worst. No other lust eats so deep into human welfare ; for the other inordinate cravings of man there would seem to be some com- pensating advantages, but this fiend of land possession blights all human nature. It strangles the unborn ; steals the air of heaven from the able-bodied. It robs God and man alike, for it waylays the best gifts of the Creator to His creatures. It fills the 264 From Naboth's Vineyard towns with moral and physical decrepitude ; saps the strength of nations. All the other robberies of man upon man are but petty larcenies in comparison. And the wars undertaken at the behests of this hunger are all so barren and worthless in the end ! Descending the ridge into Nondweni, we crossed the line of Lord Chelmsford's advance upon Ulundi in 1879. The gentle- man who had come with me from N'Gutu pointed to the sites of some of the ruined forts of that war ; but the names which they had originally borne had disappeared. Then they bore the name of some prominent general of the war. Now they were simply Forts Funk. There was Fort Funk Nos. i, 2, and 3. This was what an expenditure of seven or eight millions had led to ! Better even the names which an old soldier-servant of that day had given to one of these forts, as told me at the time by the man's master, a transport officer. " Who is that box for, Dempsey ? " asked the officer. "It's for one of them forts up country, sir." " Which fort, Dempsey ? " 265 From Naboth's Vineyard " Fort Num, sir." " There's no such place, Dempsey." " Begor, it's on the box, sir ; Fort Num." So it was; but the words "and Mason" were also there. Is South Africa gradually drying up ? That is a question of much moment. There were springs dry and wells without water this year that had never been dry in the memory of man before. The Karroo seems to be slowly moving northwards over the Orange River. The old Kaffirs will tell you that the land is drying up. They point to the sites of former kraals on high ground, where no native would or could build his dwelling now ; it is too dry. Men have many explanations for this physical change of old, the vast herds of game trampled down the long grass upon the surface, and the matted vegetation preserved the moisture and prevented denudation of the soil, which under the existing conditions is washed away in innumerable dongas by deluges following upon prolonged droughts. The old forests of ebony and yellow wood have been destroyed the growth of many 266 From Naboth's Vineyard centuries and their place has been taken by the quick-growing eucalyptus, the roots of which drain and dry up the land. Back over the long road again by N'Gutu to the Buffalo River, and over Talanna Hill into Dundee as the sun is going down, then to Glencoe for the night to catch the up- country train to-morrow at dawn. A crowded conveyance it proved, for the time was Easter, and football teams and holiday-seekers were moving. As the train wound its slow way round the base of Majuba Hill, climbing to the higher levels of the Transvaal plateaux, above Lang's Nek, an old-timer in Natal, already known to me, asked questions about that day twenty-five years ago, from which so much history had come. I pointed out to him from the carriage window the lines of the Boer advances up the steep hill. Some of the holiday-seekers, hearing our conversa- tion, looked out at the mountain too. It was the first time they had ever heard of Majuba, they said ! We soon passed out of Natal and entered the Transvaal. The Biggarsberg and Indumeni were below the horizon, but 267 From Naboth's Vineyard Majuba remained for some time in sight as we rolled over the bleak plains of the new possession. It was the last we saw of the Garden Colony. I remember having read a book many years ago in which it was stated that the earliest white inhabitant of the Terra Natalis was "a penitent pirate, who in the beginning of the eighteenth century had sequestrated himself from his abominable community, and retired there out of harm's way." Natal is still, I believe, looking for colonists. It has charms of scenery and climate not surpassed in the compass of the empire. Perhaps some member of the late Administration of old Norse lineage might feel disposed in these days of his superannuation, to repeat the penitential programme of the earliest inhabitant, and spend the remainder of his life looking at Naboth's Vineyard. THE END PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES. A BEAUTIFUL GIFT BOOK Post STO. Price yt. 6d. act. Postage 3d. 142nd Thousand IN TUNE * * f WITH THE INFINITE FULLNESS OF PEACE, POWER AND PLENTY RALPH WALDO TRINE Within yourself lies the cause of whatever enters into your life. To come into the full realization of your own awakened interior powers, is to be able to con- dition your life in exact accord with what you would have it. CONTENTS PRELUDE THE SUPREME FACT OF THE UNIVERSE THE SUPREME FACT OF HUMAN LIFE FULLNESS OF LIFE BODILY HEALTH AND VIGOR THE SECRET, POWER, AND EFFECTS OF LOVE WISDOM AND INTERIOR ILLUMINA- TION THE REALIZATION OF PERFECT PEACE COMING INTO FULLNESS OF POWER PLENTY OF ALL THINGS THB LAW OF PROSPERITY How MEN HAVE BECOME PROPHETS, SKERS, SAGES, AND SAVIOURS THE BASIC PRINCIPLE OF ALL RELIGIONS THE UNIVERSAL RE- LIGION ENTERING Now INTO THE REALIZATION OF THE HIGHEST RICHBS. Extracts What one lives in his invisible, thought world ive Is con- tinually actualizing in his visible, matenal world. If he would have any conditions different in the latter he must make the necessary changes in the former. A clear realization of this great fact would bring success to thousands of men and women who all about us are in the depths of despair. 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The only thing that any drug or any medicine can do is to remove obstructions, that the life forces may have simply a better chance to do their work. The real healing process must be performed by the operation of the life forces within. . . . There are almost countless numbers to-day, weak and suffering in body, who would become strong and healthy if they would only give God an opportunity to do His work. To such I would say, Don't shut out the Divine inflow. Do anything else rather than this. Open yourselves to it ; invite it. In the degree that you open yourselves to it, its inflowing tide will course through your bodies a force so vital that the old obstruc- tions that are dominating them to-day will be driven out before it. . . .PAGE 50. Fear and worry and all kindred mental states are too expen- sive for any person, man, woman, or child, to entertain or indulge in. Fear paralyzes healthy action, worry corrodes and pulls down the organism, and will finally tear it to pieces. 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