IMPORTANT. We would have you notice that the world is moving moving rapidly, too. Rapid advances have been made in all kinds of business operations during the last decade, arrd in, none more than in the Stove and Furnace business. Just here we would whisper in confidence to you, that this rapid advance, so far as the stove business is concerned, has not been an universal one. There are still some back numbers in the business men who think "a stove good enough for GRANDFATHER is good, enough .for me." Now, we feel sure you are not to be classed among that number; in fact, we KNOW you are not one of that class, otherwise you would not be reading this book. Now, then, knowing you to be a live, progressive, wide-awake dealer, we feel no hesitancy whatever in stating clearly and plainly, so as not to be misunderstood, that if you desire to keep your reputa- tion of progressiveness, as well as your growing trade, you cannot afford to overlook our line of strictly up-to-date stoves and furnaces. Of course, we cannot enumerate them all here, but can only call your attention to our line of Penn Esther Ranges. They are the leading ranges on the market to-day. We make that assertion without fear of contra- diction it is an acknowledged fact. They are selling as fast as we can make them, and if you want to be in it, you cannot afford to do business without having them repre- sented on your floor. The same can be said of our Penn Perfect Furnace but in order to appreciate our line you should be in pos- session of our latest catalogue, circulars, etc., and a postal card will procure them. Remember that the Mt. Penn Stove Works, located at Reading, Pennsylvania, is moving mov- ing rapidly, as we stated the world was, at the beginning of this notice and in order to keep posted in the latest and best things in stove manufacture, you must keep in constant touch with Mt. Penn. Wherever you see the word " Penn " In connection with another word making up the name of a stove, " that's us." Jev)el Security ABSOLUTELY SAFE We also make a full line of Juniors, New Process and Cabinet Gasolene Stoves, Ovens, Cookers, ton Heaters and Broilers. We solicit inquiries from all established Hardware and Stove dealers or from those just starting. EXCLUSIVE AGENCY GIVEN. GEORGE M. CLARK & COMPANY, 72-76 Lake Street, Chicago. Finest in the World 6as Ranges Gasoline Stoves Gas Beaters Oil Beaters Steel Ranges Send for Illustrated Catalogue Schneider & Trenkamp Co., CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. CLEVELAND, OHIO. Kieckhefer BrothersCompany MILWAUKEE, WIS. Manufacture a Complete Line of GRANITE STEEL WARE PIECED TINWARE STAMPED TINWARE JAPANNED WARE GALVANIZED WARE Elbows and Coal Hods Headquarters for the Best R. R. Milk Cans in the World. We issue catalogues illustrating and describing our vari- ous lines, and it will pay you to write for same at once if you are not already supplied. We offer good goods at little prices. WRITE US TODAY. Torrid Sunshine Furnaces Keep Warm As long as you can. As easy as you can. As cheap as you can. You want a furnace for the church or home. You should have the best. There is a difference in furnaces. You cannot judge by size, nor dare you depend upon all that makers tell you. but you may safely believe what users say. So please send for our furnace book, and notice the ringing testimonials from people all over the land. Some of them you will surely know. Thousands of Torrid Sunshine Furnaces are in use, making people comfortable and happy everywhere. We make all desirable sizes and styles, either with a steel plate radiator, all cast radiator, and for hot air and hot water combined. Remember, every furnace is fully warranted. We are specialists in heatine and ventilation, and will take pleasure in promptly furnishing any desired information. Learn all about the Torrid Sunshine Furnace and you will buy no other. Sold by the best dealers everywhere. Correspondence solicited. THE READING STOVE WORKS, ORR, PAINTER & CO. MAIN OFFICE: 64-66 North Second St., Philadelphia 15-19 West Lake St., Chicago 86 Canal St., Boston 4,1 William St., Buffalo 100 Omen' Patterns The American Artisan Full Size Patterns are printed on Manila paper and are ready to be transferred to heavy sheets and cut out ready for use. Sent Postpaid full Set LOO DANIEL STERN, 69 Dearborn Street, CHICAGO. The American Artisan Manuals Each the highest authority in its particular field. Each handsomely and substantially bound in red cloth with cover embossed in gold. The Tinsmiths' Pattern Manual A practical book for sheet metal workers, by J. K. Little, C. E. It leads the learner by simple steps from simple geometric figures to the most complex practical problems. Declared by leading sheet metal workers to be the best sheet metal book published. Price $3.50 The Furnace Work Manual A practical handbook for furnace workers by Sidney P. Johnston. This thoroughly practical treatise is illustrated by over 200 cuts. It treats of furnace work proper, tells how the pipes should be cut, how they should be laid and connected, and describes the construction of furnaces, all the details of pipes, dampers, cold air supply chimneys, home made tools, &c. This book contains 268 pages and has been warmly commended by the trade and trade press. The price is $3.50 The Workshop Manual A workshop companion containing over 250 pages, compiled by J. J. Davies. It contains chapters on pattern cutting, workshop receipts, slate roofing, mouldings, the properties of metals and a number of useful trade tables. The price is $3.50 The House Warming flanual Contains the $300.00 essays in THE AMERICAN ARTISAN House Warming Competition for cash prizes. Arranged for publication by Sidney P. Johnston. The latest and most up-U^date practical articles on steam heating, hot water heating and warm air heating, by the brightest minds in the trade. Price is.... 7. $3.50 Hot Water Manual The revised American edition for 1897 of Walter Jones' Heating by Hot Water, the standard English authority on this subject. This book has been amended by the author with the needs of American heating practice constantly in view. It treats of high and low pressure systems, bath apparatus, hot water supply for public institutions, duplicate boilers, radiators, &c. It contains 240 pages and is sold for $3.50 FOR SALE BY Daniel Stern, Publisher, 69 Dearborn Street, Chicago. THE Manual of Receipts BKINO A. COLLECTION OF FORMULA AND PROCESSES FOR ARTISANS, GIVING THE COMPOSITION OF VARIOUS ALLOYS, AMALGAMS, SOL- DERS, BRONZES, LACQUERS, VARNISHES, CEMENTS, ETC., ALSO DATA FOR THE PRESERVATION AND DECORATION OF VARIOUS METALLIC ARTICLES. COMPILED TBOM THB FILES OF THB AMERICAN ABTISAK AND VARIOUS OTHER SOURCES SIDNEY P. JOHNSTON 1890 Tax AMERICAN ARTISAN PRESS 69 Dearborn Street CHICAGO Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1899, by DANIEL STERN, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C PREFACE. Not so very many years ago the publication of a book such as this one would have been an impossi- bility, as metal workers guarded their secrets with jealous care and would, under no consideration, give out the slightest inkling as to the composition of the various lacquers, alloys, etc., used in the manufac- ture of various articles. The stride taken by analytical chemistry has changed all this, knd recent years have seen publicity thrown on the ingredients of many components abso- lutely unknown before. In the preparation of this volume I have freely availed myself of the vast store of metal receipts and processes contained in The American Artisan during the nineteen years of its existence. These aforesaid receipts and processes are certainly of special value to sheet metal workers, as they have at one time or another been asked for by readers of that paper, and in a number of cases the information given was fur- nished by manufacturers using the receipt in their business or by skilled mechanics furnishing a com- pound whose ingredients they had themselves worked out, these valuable data being first published in The American Artisan and never having appeared in book form until now. I must also acknowledge my indebtedness in the compilation of this volume to leading American and foreign technical journals, notably those published in Germany in behalf of the metal industry, from whose columns I have from time to time clipped receipts, the cream of which is given herewith. I would caution those attempting a practical appli- cation of these receipts to be careful that their ingre- dients are proportioned with exactitude, and in case of a failure on a first attempt to make a second trial, as a too large or too small proportion of some ingredient or the Improper manipulation of same can generally be proven the cause of failure. Ex- perimentation with small quantities at first is also advisable. THE COMPILER. Chicago, January 4, 1899. THE AMERICAN ARTISAN MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. ACETATE OF LEAD. Acetate lue crys- talline meal ensues. This is dried 24 hours afterward in a funnel, the tube of which is to be closed by a tuft of cotton. ANNEALING STEEL. The pieces of steel to be annealed are heated very slowly, and when at a low, red heat they are placed between two dry boards and then screwed up tight in a vise. The steel burns its way into the boards, and as they come together around it an air-tight charcoal bed is formed. On this cooling the steel is found thor- oughly annealed. Another method of annealing steel is to heat same to a dull red heat, cover it with dry, warm sand, and leave it to cool slowly. It may also be heated and covered up in a forge fire and left there until the fire is out. A third method is to heat the steel red hot until evenly heated, then removing it from the fire to some dark place and let it cool until the dull red can be no longer seen in the darkness. The steel is then cooled in cold water. ANTI-FRICTION COMPOSITION. An anti-friction composition, used with great suc- cess in Bavaria, instead of oil, tallow, etc., is thus made: lO 1 /^ parts of lard are melted with 2 parts of pulverized plumbago; the lard is melted, the plumbago mixed in slowly, stirred well, and the mixture applied cold. ANTIMONOID. The welding powder named antimonoid consists of 4 parts of iron turnings, 3 parts of borax, 2 parts of borate of iron, and 1 part of water. ANTIMONY COLORING ON BRASS. To give the color of antimony on brass, % an ounce of cream of tartar is to be dissolved in 1 pound of hot MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 11 water, to which is added 2 ounces pulverized metal- lic antimony and 2 ounces hydro-chloric acid. This fluid is to be heated to the boiling point and the brass objects plunged therein. They then acquire a lustrous color of great beauty, the first tint to appear being a gold-yellow and the second color a copper-red, the third color appearing is a blue-violet and the fourth is a blue-green. These colors will not be affected by exposure to the atmosphere. ARGENTIC OXIDE. Argentic oxide is precipitated as a black powder from a solution of nitrate of silver by ammonia. ASHBERRY METAL. Ashberry metal is an alloy made of 80 parts Tin, 14 parts Antimony, 2 parts Copper, 2 parts Nickel, 1 part Zinc, 1 part Aluminum. It can also be made of 79 parts Tin, 15 parts Antimony, 3 parts Copper, 2 parts Zinc, 1 part Nickel. BABBITT'S ANTI-ATTRITION METAL. This well-known bearing metal is made by melting separately 8 parts of regulus of antimony, 12 parts of Banca tin and 4 parts of copper, and after fusing same adding 12 parts of tin. The antimony is added to the first portion of tin, and after the melting pot is taken away .from the fire, and before the solution is poured into the mold, the copper is introduced. Oxi- dation is provided against by a surface coating of powdered charcoal. The lining metal consists of this hardening fused with twice its weight of tin, thus 12 MANUAL OP RECEIPTS. making it a compound 88 9-10 parts tin, 7 4-10 parts antimony and 3 7-10 parts copper. The bearing it is designed to line is cast with a shallow recess for the reception of the Babbitt metal. The part to be tinned is to be washed with alcohol and powdered with sal- ammoniac, and those surfaces which are not thus lined are covered with a clay wash. Warmth for the volatilization of a portion of the sal-ammoniac is then introduced, and the substance tinned. The lining is next cast in between a form which takes the place of the journal and the bearing. (2) There are many compositions made and sold tinder the name of Babbitt metal. One of the best is copper 1 part, tin 6 parts, antimony 2 parts by weight; melt the copper in a crucible, add gradually one-half of the tin, then the antimony, and then the rest of the tin. Let the temperature gradually fall as the tin is added, and pour into bar molds of iron. BATTERY. For a battery for plating small articles, take a cylindrical vessel and put it into another smaller vessel made of porous porcelain; fill the Inner one with diluted sulphuric acid and the space between the two with sulphate of copper, if you desire to plate an article with copper; if not, a solution of salt of gold, silver, etc., according to what you wish it to be. Put a slip of zinc in the sulphuric acid and attach a copper wire to it and the other end to the article you wish to plate and immerse that in the first solution. If you want the metal to be very thick you must put a few solid crystals of the metal in the solution; where you do not. want it to come in contact, you must touch it with a little grease. BELGIAN POLISHING POWDER. Belgian polishing powder for polishing silver is made of 117 parts of elutriated pipe clay, 62 parta of white lead, 23 parts of white magnesia, 23 parts of jewelers' rouge and 250 parts of whiting. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 13 BELL METAL. A good alloy for bell metal consists of 78 per cent, copper and 22 per cent. tin. A good bell metal has a peculiarly grayish white color that is to be readily dis- tinguished from that of either ordinary bronze or statuary bronze. It is hard, sonorous and brittle and shows a fine grained fracture. If you cool it rapidly after it has been heated red, it becomes soft, but will recover its hardness if re-heated and cooled very slowly. The larger the proportion of copper in the alloy the deeper and graver the tone of the bell, while sharper tones are caused by the addition of zinc, iron or tin to the alloy. BENDING TIN TUBES. The way to bend tin, brass, or copper tubes is as follows: Make the tube with a lap seam, solder it, and solder up one end. Fill the tube with melted rosin and let it get cold. With a little care it can then be bent nicely in any shape by keeping the seam on the inside of the bend. Tubes have been bent up to % Inch. BIDDERY METAL. Biddery metal is made of 84 3-10 parts Zinc, 11 4-10 parts Copper, 2 9-10 parts Lead, 1 4-10 parts Tin, or from 93 4-10 parts Zinc, 3 1-10 parts Lead, 3 5-10 parts Copper. BIRMINGHAM BRITANNIA METAL. Birmingham Sheet Britannia metal is composed of 1 5-10 parts Copper, 7 8-10 parts Antimony, 90 6-10 parts Tin. 14 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. Birmingham Cast Britannia metal is composed of 9-100 parts Copper, 9 2-10 parts Antimony, 90 71-100 parts Tin. BISMUTH NITRATE. Bismuth nitrate is obtained by the dissolution of bismuth in nitric acid. BLACKENING COPPER. A good black finish to copper it given by putting same in a pickle consisting of 4 parts of concentrated hydro-chloric acid, 1 part sulphuric acid (of 66 de- grees Be), and 2 parts arsenic acid and 24 of water. This pickle is to be heated before using. BLACKENING SHEET IRON. The simplest method to blacken iron is to heat it with oil, especially linseed. The objects are first rubbed or painted with oil and then heated to such an extent that the oil is burned off. The surface produced in this manner is coal black, and gives the objects a black coloring, which will withstand the highest temperature. After the application is thor- oughly dried, the objects can be rubbed with ben- zine or a solution of soda. In order to produce a black asphalte lac for iron, melt 8 pounds of asphalte in an iron kettle, gradually adding 12 pints of cooked linseed oil, 1 pound of litharge, and % pound of sul- phate of zinc. The whole mixture should be allowed to boil three hours. Finally, 1% pounds black umber is to be added, and the mixture carefully boiled for two hours longer. It is advisable previous to using this mixture to thin it by the addition of oil of tur- pentine. BLACK IRON. Iron black is a finely divided antimony powder, which is precipitated from a solution of antimony by zinc. (MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. lo BLACKING-HARNESS. Some good receipts for harness blacking are made as follows: 1. Treacle, y 2 pound; lampblack, 1 ounce; yeast, a spoonful; sugar candy, olive oil, gum tragacanth and isinglass each 1 ounce; and a cow's gall. Mix with 2 pints of stale beer and let it stand before the fire one hour. 2. Treacle, 8 parts; lampblack, 1 part; sweet oil, gum arabic, 1; isinglass, 1; water, 32. Apply heat to the whole. When cold add 1 ounce of spirits of wine and apply with a sponge. If it should get hard, place the bottle in warm water a short time. BLACKING SHEET ZINC. For blacking sheet zinc for the purpose of drawing lines, so that the blacking will not rub off, also answers for cast-iron, wrought-iron and steel. To 4 ounces of clear water add 1 onnce of powdered sulphate of copper, then ^ teaspoonful of nitric acid. Before applying this solution, be sure and brighten the surface which is to be coated. When using, damp- en a clean part of waste, passing it over the work. When the surface is large use different parts of the dampened waste, so that the surface will have the same color. Generally the waste turns black after being drawn across the work, and also produces black streaks on the surface coats. This applies only to cast-iron, wrought-iron and steel. These metals when coated have the appearance of copper; but with zinc the surface is black. Rub the surface dry, after aplying with clean waste. BLACKING STOVE. The following formula is said to make an excellent stove blacking: Two parts copperas, 1 part bone- black, 1 part black lead, mixed to consistency of cream with water. Make two applications of the polish to the stove. (2) A quick-drying stove blacking with a good gloss is made thusly: Take 2 pounds plumbago, 5 gills 10 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. Japan dryer of furniture varnish, 1 gill asphaltum varnish and thin down for use with gasoline. Lamp- black may be substituted for asphaltum if desired, a trial of which will determine the quantity. Mix only as desired for immediate use. (3) Several valuable receipts for stove blacking are given herewith: (1) To 1 gallon benzine add 6 ounces pulverized rosin, 3 ounces pulverized borax, 4 ounces pulverized alum, 1 pound fine ground black lead, and 1 to 2 ounces lampblack. Apply to the stove with a soft brush. For bright goods omit the blacks. (2) Re- duce cheap Japan to the thickness of cream and apply to all parts of the stove with a brush, covering as much space as can be polished before it sets; then sprinkle on best quality of powdered lead, rub briskly with a hard brush and polish with a dry brush. (3) To 1 gallon gasoline or naphtha add ti ounces pulverized resin, 1 pound pulverized lead, 3 ounces lampblack; put in a tight can and shake thoroughly; pour out in quantities for immediate use only. (4) To 1 gallon benzine add ^ pound pulverized resin, 1 pound fine ground lead, % ounce borax, and to give luster add 2 ounces lampblack. In mixing stove pol- ish for sample stoves gasoline instead of benzine is recommended, as the quality is much improved by its use, and for stoves in use turpentine is recom- mended, as it will not give any unpleasant odor when the stove is in use. BLUE COLOR FOR IRON AND STEEL. To give iron and steel a bluish color cleanse the article thoroughly with lime and then brush it over with a mixture composed of the following ingredients: 16 parts Hydro-chloric Acid, 8 parts Fuming Nitric Acid, 8 parts Butter of Antimony. Hydro-chloric acid is to be added drop by drop very slowly, in order to avoid heating. The mixture Is to be applied to the steel with a cloth; the steel is then rubbed with green young oak wood until the blue color desired is produced. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 17 BLUE PRINT PROCESS. The process is a simple one, requiring for its manip- ulation to obtain best results, prepared, or helio- graphic paper, a copying frame, glass and cushion, which may be obtained of dealers in artists' materials. In use the frame is laid on the glass side, the back and cushion removed. The tracing or drawing (which has been made with deep black India ink upon tracing paper or cloth) is laid on the glass face downward, the prepared paper placed over it, the prepared side next to the tracing, the cushion placed over this and the back of the frame closed. Care must be used to have the tracing, the prepared paper and the cushion perfectly smooth, so as to insure the perfect contact of the tracing and paper. Reverse the frame and ex- pose to the light for from six minutes to an hour, according to the degree of light. Remove the pre- pared paper and drench in clear water ten minutes or more, and hang by one edge to dry. The prepared paper requires to be entirely shielded from daylight before being used and while putting it into the frame. Where all the regular materials are not at hand the cushion may be a smoothly-folded blanket placed upon a board, and on this laid successively the pre- pared paper, the tracing and the plate glass. BLUE PRINTS. The following two formulas for making blue prints are in general use. They both make good prints, but the one marked No. 2 gives the clearer print. No. 1 1 oz. of Red Potash, 1 oz. of Citrate Iron of Ammonium, 1 pint of Water. No. 2 1 oz. of Red Potash, / 1^4 oz. of Citrate Iron of Ammonium, 1% pints of Water. BLUING SHEET-STEEL. To give small articles of sheet-steel a blue appear- 18 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. ance dip them in a fluid alloy consisting of 25 parts of lead and 1 part of tin, melted at the requisite degree of heat for bluing. This dipping may also be made in a sand bath and maintained at the requisite tem- perature, of 4.78 degrees Fahrenheit for the pale blue and 5.72 degrees Fahrenheit for dark blue. BLUING STEEL. Steel is "blued" by heating it evenly in an ash bath that is, a quantity of sand is spread over a sheet of boiler iron and heated up to about the boiling point of oil, say 600 degrees. If a little oil is rubbed over the surfaces with a piece of waste the color will bo better. All articles to be colored should be polished. BLUING STEEL OR IRON. To put a durable blue on iron or steel without heat, apply nitric acid and let it eat into the iron a little, then the metal will be covered with a fine film of oxide. Clean, oil and varnish. BRASS ANTIQUE. To produce the appearance of antique brass, dis- solve 1 ounce sal-ammoniac, 3 ounces cream of tartar, and 6 ounces common salt in 1 pint hot water; then add 2 ounces nitrate of copper dissolved in a half pint of water; mix well, and apply it repeatedly to the article by means of a brush. BRASS BRISTOL. Bristol brass is composed of either 75 5-10 parts Copper, 24 5-10 parts Zinc, or 67 2-10 parts Copper, 328-10 parts Zinc, or 60 8-10 parts Copper, 39 2-10 parts Zinc. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 19 BRASSES FOR SIDE-RODS. Brasses for side rods are made of 1 part Tin, 6 parts Copper, and to 100 pounds of this mixture add one-half part each of zinc and lead. BRASS PIPE FINISH. Take very finest flour of emery paper and oil, bring- ing the surface to a very smooth and even finish first. Rub well with rotten stone and oil on a piece of soft leather and finish with dry whiting and a rag. Then, if desired to lacquer, see that every part is free from oil and very clean. Take shellac varnish, thin with 95 per cent, alcohol, and let it stand a few hours to settle. Afterward apply the lacquer with a camel's hair brush, keeping the surface of the brass work very warm all the time. BRASS-RED. Red brass is composed of 17 parts Tin, 81 parts Copper, 2 parts Cupro-manganese, or from 14 parts Tin, 85 parts Copper, 1 part Cupro-manganese. BRASS-TEST FOR. To discover the presence of lead in brass add a few drops of sulphuric acid to a solution of the brass in nitric acid. The volume of the resultant precipitation will determine the quantity of lead. If there is a large quantity of lead in the brass it becomes brittle. BRIGHTENING TINWARE. To brighten up shop-worm tin ware and make it look like new, dip a soft cloth in plaster-of-paris and rub the ware. Putz pomade is too expensive and too 20 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. much trouble to get off. Almost all the other polishes contain more or less acid. BRILLIANT BLACK FOR IRON AND STEEL. To produce a brilliant black upon iron and steel, apply with a fine hair brush a mixture of turpentine and sulphur which has been boiled together. BRITANNIA METAL. English Britannia metal is composed of 1624-100 parts Antimony, 1 84-100 parts Copper, 81 9-10 parts Tin. 14 6-100 parts Copper, 7 81-100 parts Antimony, 90 62-100 parts Tin. 3 1-10 parts Copper, 5-10 part Zinc, 63-10 parts Antimony, 90 1-10 parts Tin. 3 6-100 parts Zinc, 8 1-100 parts Copper, 9 66-100 parts Antimony, 85 4-10 parts Tin. BRONZE-ANCIENT. Copper 100 parts, tin 7 parts, lead 7 parts. BRONZE-BROWN FIRE-PROOF, ON COPPER AND BRASS. A brown fire-proof bronze for copper or brass is obtained by the dissolution of 1 1-12 drachms each of finely powdered sal-ammoniac and verdigris in one pint of water, the solution being allowed to stand covered 3 to 4 hours, at which time iy 2 additional pints of water are added. When bronzing a copper article, which must first be cleaned perfectly, it is to be held over a coal fire and heated to a uniform heat and color. Then cast the application of the solution, followed by careful drying. Tin copper is not to be MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 21 heated sufficiently to melt the tin. Five or six such treatments of copper gives it a brass color, and from six to ten applications gives it a beautiful yellow tint. If a color shading from yellow into brown is de- sired for your article it must not be hot when the mixture is applied. This operation is to be repeated twenty to twenty-five times in order to give a light brown color. BRONZE CHEAP. A good, cheap bronze for use on the common kind of tea-trays is made by making into a paste with oil, and melting together 4 ounces borax, 4 ounces salt- peter, 2 drachms corrosive sublimate, 8 ounces flowers of zinc and 16 ounces of verdigris. BRONZE-COPPER. A copper bronze is secured by coating the metal (either iron or zinc) with a brown varnish or lacquer and dusting copper-dust upon it. BRONZE FOR CASTINGS. A good and permanent bronze can be made by melt- ing together 96 parts copper and 4 parts tin. The following is a good bronzing liquid: Sal-ammoniac 1 drachm, oxalic acid 15 grains, vinegar 1 pint; mix. After well cleaning the article to be bronzed, warm it gently and brush it over with the liquid, using only a small quantity at a time. When rubbed dry repeat the application until the desired tint is obtained. BRONZE FOR CAST IRON. To bronze cast iron, mix equal parts of petroleum oil and French yellow, to the consistency of paint, and apply hot. BRONZE FOR GILDING. A good bronze for gilding must be fusible at a low temperature and must also be compact and close grained. A good alloy being copper, 82 25-100 parts; zinc, 17 5-10 parts, and tin, 25-100 parts. (2) Copper. 14 parts; zinc, 6 parts; tin, 4 parts. 22 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. BRONZE FOR GUN BARBELS. A good receipt for bronzing gun barrels is: Aqua fortis and sweet spirits of nitre each half an ounce; sulphate of copper, 2 ounces; water, 30 ounces; tinc- ture of muriate of iron, 1 ounce. Mix and apply. BRONZE FOR IRON OR BRASS. Articles of iron or brass may be bronzed by dipping them into melted sulphur mixed with lampblack. The surface, after being drained off, will take a beau- tiful polish, and presents the appearance of oxidized bronze. BRONZE FOR MEDALS, SMALL CASTINGS, ETC. Copper, 95 parts; tin, 4 parts. Melt together. BRONZE FOR SMALL CASTINGS. A fine bronze for small castings is composed of 94 12-100 parts of copper and 5 88-100 parts tin. BRONZE GOLD. A very handsome gold bronze alloy is made of 90 5-10 parts copper, 6 5-10 parts tin, 3 parts zinc. This alloy should not be exposed to water, as it will then lose its gold color. BRONZE-GREEN FOR BRASS. A green bronze for brass is obtained by mixing 1 part of green vitriol, 1 part of gum arabic, 1 part of sal-ammoniac, 1 part of red umber, 1 part of mineral green, 80 parts of strong vinegar and 4 parts of Avigi- non berries. Cleanse the articles to be bronzed with diluted nitric acid, then rinse them with water and apply the fluid with a brush. If the color is not then satisfactorily dark the article is to be heated until too warm to be held in the hand, and then given a coat of spirit of wine mixed with a little lampblack. Finish the work by applying a coat of spirit of var- nish Another green bronze for brass is obtained by adding to a solution of 8 drachms of copper in 1 ounce MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 23 Of strong nitric acid, 3% drachms sal-ammoniac, 6% drachms aqua-ammonia and 10% ounces vinegar. This liquid is to be placed in a bottle not tightly corked, and allowed to stand in a warm place for several days. After it has been applied to any object it should be dried by exposure to heat, and when dry a coat of linseed oil varnish should be applied, which is also dried by heat. BRONZE GREEN FOR TIN. A green bronze for tin, zinc and lead can be secured by applying lacquer of a dull luster, or green varnish. The best green for bronze is made by a mixture of chrome yellow with Frankfort black. BRONZE LIQUID. An admirable bronze liquid is made by the dissolu- tion of % ounce of alum, % ounce of arsenic and 1 ounce of sal-ammoniac in 1 pint of strong vinegar. BRONZE-4METAL. Copper, 27y 2 parts; zinc, 12 parts; tin, 8 parts. Melt together. BRONZE ORMOLU. The composition of ormolu bronze is 58 3-10 parts copper, 25 3-10 parts zinc and 16 7-10 parts tin. BRONZE-PATINA ON TIN. A bronze patina on tin is obtained by brushing the article with a solution of 1% ounces sulphate of cop- per, 1% ounces ferrous sulphate in 1 quart of water, then wetting the dried object with a solution of 3%. ounces of verdigris in 10% ounces of vinegar. After drying, the object is to be polished with a soft brush rubbed upon wax and some iron rust. This coating should be protected by lacquer. BRONZE-PERUVIAN. The bronzes that Pizarro found in Peru, and which excited the admiration of Europe when introduced, 24 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. were composed of 95 parts copper, 4 5-10 parts tin, 3-10 parts iron and 2-10 parts lead. BRONZE-PHOSPHOR. This substance, which is largely used in place of bronze and gun metal compositions, for bearings, wire, rope, gearing, etc., is a copper-tin alloy, fluxed by the introduction of a quantity of phosphor. The addition of this latter is generally made in the form of phosphide and tin or phosphide and copper. BRONZE STATUARY. The bronze for use in statuary must become thinly fluid. It must also acquire a beautiful green color, technically known as patina, on brief exposure to the atmosphere. As practically the sole use of this bronze is for artistic purposes, the color is very important. The bronze at present most in rogue for statuary con- sists of 86 6-10 per cent, of copper, 6 6-10 per cent, tin, 3 3-10 per cent, lead and 3 3-10 per cent. zinc. BRONZE SUN. Sun bronze is an alloy composed of 60 parts cobalt or 40 parts cobalt, 10 parts aluminum, 40 or 30 parts copper. BRONZE TUCKER. To obtain Tucker bronze, grease polished iron and expose it for from two to five minutes to the action of vapors arising from a bath of equal parts of con- centrated hydro-chlorate and nitric acid. Next coat the iron with vaseline and heat until the decomposi- tion of the latter (or vaseline) commences. BRONZING BRASS ARTICLES. To bronze small brass articles, clean same well to get rid of grease, etc., and apply, with a brush, a mix- ture consisting of 3 parts Oxide of Iron, 3 parts White Arsenic, 36 parts Hydro-chloric Acid. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 25 The process is finished by oiling well, after which the article may be lacquered or varnished. BRONZING CAST-IRON. To bronze cast-iron the first step is to clean the sur- face and then coat it uniformly with a layer of olive oil (a low grade will answer), then heat it without, however, raising the temperature to the burning point of the oil. This will cause the cast-iron, at the minute the decomposition of the oil is accomplished, to absorb oxygen and will cause the formation of a brown surface of oxide, whose adherence is very firm. It will acquire a good polish, thus giving the surface of the cast-iron a bronze-like appearance. BRONZING COPPER. A good bronze for copper is made by the dissolu- tion of 30 parts Hydro-chlorate Ammonium, 10 parts Cream of Tartar, 10 parts Common Salt, 10 parts Acetate of Copper, 100 parts Acetate Acid, moderately concentrated or in 200 parts of strong vinegar; a little water is to be added to this. When the mixture has become homogeneous the copper ob- ject is daubed with it and allowed to dry at an ordi- nary temperature at from 24 to 48 hours. When this period of time has elapsed the copper object will be found covered with verdigris, presenting a variety of tints. The whole, especially the reliefs, are to be brushed with a wax brush, and if necessary the high reliefs should be set off with chrome yellow or hem- atite. If you wish to deepen the color of the parts on which the bronzing is, lead carbonate of ammonia may be used. Light touches of ammonia will give a bluish tint to the green portions. If you wish to give the copper a bluish-green bronze, apply to its surface a fluid obtained by warm digestion of cinnabar with a solution of sodium sulphide, to which an addition of caustic lime has been made. 2G MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. BRONZING COPPER AND BRASS. To bronze copper and brass neutralize 20 parts of ammonia with vinegar and compound the solution with 6 parts sal-ammoniac and 10 parts verdigris. First rid your object of grease, then brush with the solution, the operation being repeated until the shade of color wanted is produced. After this has been secured pour off the solution and recleanse by hot water. Repeat the rinsing twice. The best drier for articles is sawdust. BRONZING GREEN. A fine antique green bronze is obtained by repeated alternate applications to brass or copper of diluted acetic acid and exposure to the fumes of ammonia. A more rapid method for giving this appearance is found in the immersion of the articles in a solution of 1 part of per-chloride of iron in 2 parts of water. The longer the immersion the darker the shade. A second method consists in boiling the articles in a strong solution of nitrate of copper. A third method is the immersion of 2 ounces of hypo-sulphate of sodium and 2 ounces of nitrate of iron in 1 pint of water. BRONZING IRON. Iron articles are easily coppered or brassed by dip- ping in copper solutions, or else coppered or brassed by the galvanic method; these coatings also scale off after a short time, especially if the iron surface was not thoroughly cleaned, when exposed to the influence of moist air. By the following process it is easy to provide iron articles with a handsome bronze-colored protoxide coating; it resists the influence of humidity pretty well, and besides this, the operator has it in his power to produce any desired bronze color in a simple manner. The cleansed and scoured articles are exposed to the vapors of a heated mixture of concentrated hydro- chloric and nitric acids (1 and 1) for from two to five MANUAL OP RECEIPTS. 2? minutes; and then, without unnecessarily touching them, heated to a temperature of 300 to 350 degrees. The heating is continued until the bronze color be- comes visible upon the articles. After they have been cooled, they are tubbed over with petroleum jelly, and again heated until the jelly begins to decompose. After cooling, the article is anew rubbed over with petroleum jelly. If now the vapors from a mixture of concentrated hydrochloric and nitric acids are per- mitted to operate upon the iron article, light red- brown tones are obtained. However, if acetic acid is mixed to the mentioned two acids, and the vapors permitted to operate upon the iron, oxide coatings are obtained, possessing a handsome bronze yellow color. All graduations of color from dark red-brown to light red-brown or from bronze-yellow to dark brown-yel- low are produced by varying the mixtures of the acids. (2) Iron has sometimes to be bronzed for domestic use. The following is a very simple way of obtain- ing a good bronze: Mix an equal quantity of butter of antimony and oil of olives; put this mixture on the iron which is required to be bronzed with a brush, the iron having been previously brightened with emery and cloth, and leave it for several hours. Then rub with wax and varnish with copal. BRONZING IRON OR STEEL. To secure a bronze-like surface on iron and steel, and one impervious to oxidation, first clean the ob- ject, then expose for two or three minutes to the action of -the fumes of a heated mixture of nitric and hydro-chlorate acid in equal proportions at a tem- perature ranging from 550 degrees to 660 degrees Fahrenheit. When the object has cooled rub it with vaseline and then heat until decomposition of the vaseline commences. Repeat the vaseline treatment. Should a coloring lighter than bronze be desired, mix acetic acid with the other acids. In making this bronze one should be very careful both in handling and preserving these acids. 28 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. BRONZING MEDALS. First clean the medal, then apply on its surface a thin paste made of water with equal parts of peroxide of iron and plumbago, with a small proportion of clay. Heat the whole, and when the object has cooled, brush vigorously for a long time with a medium stiff brush, which is frequently rubbed upon a yellow waxen black and afterwards upon the mixture of peroxide of iron and plumbago. BRONZING TIN. To bronze tin, prepare two solutions. (1) 1 part of Ferrous Sulphate, 1 part of Cupric Sulphate, 20 parts of Distilled Water, (2) 4 parts Verdigris, 16 parts Vinegar. The article to be bronzed is to be thoroughly cleansed by means of a brush dipped in a fine earth and water, and after it is dry a light coat of the first solution is to be applied to both sides by means of a brush. When it is dry the article looks black; then the second solution is to be applied with a brush until the article assumes a dark copper-red color. Then allow it to dry for one hour, and polish with a soft brush and finely powdered elutriated blood-stone, the surface being often breathed upon in order to secure adhesion of the blood-stone. Then polish it with the brush which is from time to time drawn over the palm of the hand. The bronzing is protected against dampness by covering with a very thin layer of gold lacquer. (2) Tin and tin alloys, after careful cleansing from oxide and grease, are handsomely and permanently bronzed if brushed over with a solution of 1 part of sulphate of copper (blue-stone), and 1 part of sul- phate of iron (copperas) in 20 parts of water. When this has dried, the surface should be brushed with a solution of one part of acetate of copper (verdigris) in acetic acid. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 29 After several applications and dryings of the last named, the surface is polished with a soft brush and blood-stone powder. The raised portions are then rubbed off with soft leather moistened with wax and turpentine, followed by a rubbing with dry leather. BRONZING ZINC. Zinc, which is to be bronzed, should be given an electro-deposition of brass, which is then dipped into a weak solution of sulphate of copper in order to impart a red tint. When it is dry, moisten with a cloth immersed in hydro-sulphate of ammonia or proto-chloride of copper dissolved in hydro-chloric acid, or a solution of polysulphide of potassium. Dry again, then brush the surface over with a mixture of peroxide of iron and plumbago, varied in accordance with the tint desired. The powder will adhere more readily if the brush is slightly moistened with essence of turpentine. Rub the raised portions strongly to uncover the brass, then give a coat of colorless var- nish. Another way is to pickle the brass or copper article with diluted nitric acid, then coat same with a paste made of 2 parts graphite, 3 parts peroxide of iron and enough spirits of wine. Brush off this coat- ing after 24 hours, and a dark-brown bronze will appear. If a lighter bronze is desired, the brass or copper zinc should be rubbed with a soft brush dipped in a solution of 1^ ounces of sal-ammoniac and 3 ounces of potassium binoxalate in Sy 2 to 5*4 pints of vinegar. BROWNING COPPER. To give copper a brown color scour it bright with glass paper, heat over a coal fire and then brush over with a solution consisting of 3 parts Diluted Acetic Acid, 7 parts Sal-ammoniac, 5 parts Crystallized Acetate of Copper, 85 parts Distilled Water, and then rub the article with a solution consisting of 4 parts Oil of Turpentine, 1 part Wax. 30 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. . BROWNING COPPER-LIQUID FOR. A liquid for giving a brown tinge to copper is made by the addition to acetic acid of 11 drachms of spirit of sal-ammoniac; blue litmus paper, when dipped in same, becomes red. Next add 5^ drachms of sal- ammoniac and enough water to make 2 pints. This fluid is to be used, wetting the copper surface again and again, and rubbing after each application until the brown tint desired is obtained. BROWNING METAL. A good brown on metal may be had by dissolving G8 grams of carbonate of ammonia in 1,000 grams of hot water, to which 56 grams of citrate of copper oxide should be added while stirring, and then 100 grams of verdigris and 25 grams of alum that has been previously dissolved in 200 grams of water should be added, and finally 10 grams of oxalic acid. Brush twice with tartar water. BRUNSWICK BLACK. Brunswick black is made as follows: (1) Foreign asphaltum, 45 pounds; drying oil, 6 gallons; litharge, 6 pounds. Boil and thin with 25 gallons of oil or turpentine. Used for iron work. etc. (2) Black pitch and gas tar asphaltum, of each 25 pounds; boil gently for five hours; then add linseed oil, 8 gallons; litharge and red lead, of each, 10 pounds; boil slowly, and thin with oil of turpentine, 20 gal- lons. Inferior to the other, but cheaper. BURNISHING SILVER. The first step in burnishing silver is to clean off any dirt which the surfaces of the silver articles may have contracted during the process of their manufac- ture. To do this take pumice-stone powder and with a brush saturated in strong soapsuds rub the various parts of the article, even those which are to remain a dull color, which, nevertheless, are thus given a beautiful white appearance. After wiping with an old linen rag go ahead with the burnishing. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 31 BURNT CAST-STEELTO RESTORE. To restore burnt cast-steel use a mixture consist- ing of 1 part Dragons' Blood, 8 parts Salt-petre, 4 parts Colophony. The article is to be heated to a dark-red heat and dusted with this compound. After the absorption of the powder is complete the article is to be thoroughly worked upon an anvil. (2) Another compound for this purpose consists of 4 parts Salt-petre, y 2 part Gum Arabic, 1/2 part Aloes, ^4 part Resin, 8 parts Red Chromate of Potassium, with which the steel, when red-hot, is dusted. (3) Another method consists in the repeated im- mersion of the red-hot burnt steel in a compound of 2 parts Boiled Linseed Oil, 3 parts Colophony. BURNT STBEL TOOLS TO RESTORE. To restore burnst steel tools, melt together 4 ounces of black pitch and 1 pound tallow, and then add, with constant stirring, 4 ounces of yellow prussiate of potash, 12 drachms of soap, a handful of common salt and 13 ounces of sal-ammoniac. Immerse the articles, heated red-hot, in this compound; allow them to cool and then harden them again, as customary. (2) Another compound consists of 5 parts Fish Oil, 2 parts Tallow, 10 parts Resin, 1,4 part Asafoetida. BUTTER OF ANTIMONY. Butter of antimony is made by heating a tri-sulphide with mercuric chloride. 32 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. CASE-HARDENING CAST-IRON. For case-hardening cast-iron, take salt, 21 pounds; saltpetre, y 2 pound; rock alum, % pound; ammonia, 4 ounces; salt of tartar, 4 ounces; pulverize all to- gether and incorporate thoroughly. Use by powder- ing all over the iron while hot, then plunging in cold water. CASE-HARDENING COMPOUND FOR IRON. A good case-hardening for iron consists of 18 parts Sal-soda, 4 parts Muriate of Soda, 1 part Black Oxide of Manganese, 16 parts Lampblack. CASTING IRON WITH PURE LEAD. For casting iron or steel plates with nearly pure lead, the material to be treated is subjected to a series of five baths. The first is in a pickle, through which a weak current of electricity is passed. This bath removes the scales from the surface of the metal, and the electricity is said to greatly expedite matters. The second bath is in lime water, which neutralizes the acid. Then comes the bath in clear water. The fourth bath is in a neutral solution of zinc and stannic chlorides. The drying process, which follows, leaves on tb? surface of the plates a deposit* of the mixed metallic chlorides, which protects the plates from oxidation. The next process consists in passing the plates through a bath of molten deal, and when taken from here the metal is found to be coated with an adhei'ent layer of lead, which, though thin, is uniformly spread. It is said this process has no decreasing effect on the ductility or strength of the iron, and that a plate may be bent, closed and opened again without cracking the coating. CEMENT ACID PROOF. (1) To make an acid proof cement mix oxide of zinc with a concentrated solution of zinc chloride. (2) A cement capable of resisting the action of MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 33 acidulous fumes is composed of a concentrated solu- tion of silicate of soda formed into paste with pow- dered glass. CEMENT AQUARIUM. Cement for aquariums can be prepared in the fol- lowing way: (1) Take 1 gill of litharge, 1 gill of plaster of paris, 1 gill of fine white sand, 1-3 of a gill of finely pow- dered resin. Mix well and bottle and cork it until it is wanted for use; then mix it with boiled linseed oil and dryers until as thick as putty. Mix the cement only in small quantities, as it dries quickly. (2) Mix boiled linseed oil, litharge, red and white lead together, using white lead in the largest propor- tion; spread on flannel and place in the joints. (3) A solution of glue, 8 ounces, to 1 ounce of Venice turpentine; boil together, agitating all the time, until the mixture becomes as complete as possi- ble, the joints to be cemented to be kept together for forty-eight hours if required. (4) Take half a gill of gold size, 2 gills of red lead, 1% gills of litharge, and sufficient silver-sand to make into a thick paste for use. This mixture sets in about two days. (5) Mix well-dried Venetian red, 3 pounds, with oxide of iron, 1 pound, and add as much boiled oil as will make the mixture into a stiff paste. (6) Common putty and litharge in about equal quantities, well mixed with boiled linseed oil. CEMENT BLACK IRON FOR IRON OVENS. Black iron cement for iron ovens is composed of the following: Iron filings (10 parts), sand (12 parts), bone black (10 parts), slaked lime (12 parts), lime milk (5 parts). CEMENT BOTTLE CORK. The bituminous or black cement for bottle corks consists of pitch hardened by the addition of rosin and brick dust. 34 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. CEMENT DIAMOND. The so-called Diamond cement for use in steam apparatus, steam boilers, etc., is made of 50 parts prepared graphite, 16 parts litharge, 15 parts whiting and 16 parts of linseed oil varnish. CEMENT ELECTRICAL. A cement for use in fixing electrical or chemical apparatus is prepared by the mixture of 2 ounces plaster of paris, 1 pound of wax, 1 pound of red ochre, 5 pounds of rosin; the entire mass being melted at a moderate heat. CEMENT-EVANS' METALLIC. Evan's Metallic Cement is made by the dissolution of a cadmium amalgam prepared from 2599-100 parts cadmium and 74 1-100 parts mercury in an excess of mercury, the solution being slightly packed in a leather bag and intimately kneaded. This kneading, particularly in cases where the cement has been pre- viously heated to about 97 degrees Fahrenheit, makes the same very plastic and similar to softened wax. CEMENT FIRE-PROOF. Fire-proof cement is made as follows: To 4 or 5 parts of clay, thoroughly dried and pulverized, add 2 parts of iron filings free from oxide, 1 part of peroxide of manganese, % of sea salt and VL> of borax. Mix these ingredients thoroughly and render them as fine as possible, then reduce them to a thick paste with the necessary quantity of water, mixing intimately. It must be used immediately. After application it should be exposed to the heat, gradually increasing to almost a white heat. This cement is very hard. (2) To equal parts of sifted peroxide of manganese and pulverized zinc white add a sufficient quantity of commercial soluble to form a thin paste. This mix- ture, when used, immediately forms a cement quite equal in hardness to that obtained by the first method. (3) Take equal parts pulverized zinc white and MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 35 sifted peroxide of manganese, and make into a paste "with soluble glass. CEMENT-FIRE AND WATER PROOF. (4) A fire and water proof cement is made by stir- ring intimately together 2 parts iron filings free from oxide, 5 parts of clay thoroughly dried and pulver- ized, l / 2 part borax, % part salt, 1 part of peroxide of manganese. These are made as fine as possible by stirring and then reduced to a thick paste. This ce- ment must be used as soon as it is made. After it has been applied, it should be exposed to a gradually in- creasing heat that rises almost to a white heat. Another fire and water proof cement is made by the addition of enough soluble glass to equal parts of pulverized zinc-white and sifted peroxide of manga- nese to form a thin paste. This cement must also be used as soon as it is made. (5) Cement which resists heat and water is com- posed of the following: Lime, 10 parts; iron filings, 5 parts; vinegar, 2 parts; water, 3 parts. CEMENT FOR AIR-TIGHT OVEN DOOR. A cement for air-tight oven door, which must be used as soon as made, is composed by homogeneously combining 120 parts of iron filings, 1 of flowers of sulphur, 8 of powdered feldspar and 2 of pulverized sal-ammoniac made into a paste by the addition of water. CEMENT FOR ASBESTOS. To make a good cement or paste for pasting asbestos to tin hot-air furnace pipes. Take 2 parts litharge, 1 part dry slacked lime, and 1 part fine, dry sand. Com- bine them thoroughly, and add enough hot linseed oil to form a paste-like mass. It sets hard and quick- ly, and must be freshly prepared every time it is re- quired for application, which application must be made only when the cement is hot. 30 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. CEMENT FOR BLAST PIPES, ETC. A cement for use in blast pipes, hot-blast stoves, blow engines, etc., is composed of clay, 1 part; com- mon salt, 1 part; iron filings, 15 parts. Mix with equal parts of vinegar and water. CEMENT FOR BRASS AND GLASS. Cement for brass and glass is made thusly: One part of wax and 5 parts of resin are melted, and into this mass are stirred ^4 part of plaster of paris and 1 part burnt ochre. (2). Melt together 1 part of wax, 4 parts of resin- preferably pine resin and stir into the melted mass 1 part of elutriated chalk or brick dust. Both these cements are to be applied warm to heated surfaces. (3) For cementing brass on glass, knead a quantity of plaster of paris into twice the same quantity of resin soap, which is made by boiling 3 parts of resin and one part of caustic soda in 5 of water. This cement is used to a large extent for fastening brass tops on glass lamps. This is very strong, is unaffected by peti-oleum, bears heat excellently and becomes hard in from y 2 to % of an hour. It will harden more slowly when slaked lime, white lead or zinc-white is used iu place of the plaster of paris. CEMENT FOR CARD AND TIN. A cement to unite card to tin is made as follows: Boil 1 ounce of borax and 2 ounces of powdered shel- lac in 15 ounces of water until the shellac is entirely dissolved. CEMENT FOR CASINGS. A good cement for filling faults in casings is made as follows: Iron filings free from rust, 10 parts; sul- phur, %; sal-ammoniac, 0.8; these are mixed with water to a thick paste, which is rammed into the "faults." This becomes strong when the iron filings are rusted. The parts which have to be cemented are treated before the operation with liquid ammonia, so as to be perfectly free from grease. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS, 37 CEMENT FOR CAST-IRON TANKS. The following cement is recommended for repairing damaged places in cast-iron tanks, cisterns, etc.: Five parts brimstone, 2 parts black lead, and 2 parts of cast-iron filings, previously sifted. Melt together, taking care that the brimstone does not catch fire. The damaged place, perfectly dry, is well heated by laying a piece of red-hot iron upon it, and is then stopped with the cement previously heated in a melt- ing ladle until it becomes soft. CEMENT FOR COPPER AND BRASS PIPE PARTS. A cement for copper and brass parts of steam pipes is composed of 10 parts Copper or Brass shavings (respectively), 1 part Sulphur. 1 part Gutta-percha. 2 parts Caoutchouc. CEMENT FOR DEFECTIVE PLACES IN CAST- INGS. In order to repair a defect in a casting, heat the defective place, lay a piece of cement upon it, press- ing same down with a hot iron. The following paste will be found valuable for this purpose: One part rosin, 1 part black pitch, melted in a crucible, and enough fine iron filings added for the formation of a stiff mass. CEMENT FOR FASTENING HOOKS IN STONE. A cement for fastening hooks, clamps, iron rods, etc., in stone is made as follows: Make a paste of 1 part of iron filings, 3 parts of plaster of paris and glue water. Another receipt gives 7 parts of plaster of paris to 1 of the iron filings. If it is desired that the article cemented is to stay white, iron filings should not be used and the cement should rather be made of 3 parts of white of egg, 7 parts of plaster of paris, with a large enough amount of water. 38 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. CEMENT FOR FASTENING IRON TO STONE. To make cement for fastening iron to stone, take fine iron filings, 10 parts; plaster of paris, 30 parts; sal-ammoniac, y a . Mix to a fluid paste with weak vinegar and use at once. CEMENT FOR FASTENING LABELS ON POL- ISHED NICKEL. To fasten labels on polished nickel dissolve 400 parts by weight of coarsely powdered dextrine in 600 of water; add 20 parts glycerine and 10 of glucose and heat the mixture to 194 degrees Fahrenheit. CEMENT FOR FASTENING METALS ON WOOD. Mix into a thick solution of glue, finely ground chalk, until the mass gets the consistency desired. CEMENT FOR FASTENING COPPER TO SAND- STONE. The following compound will be found useful for fastening copper to sand-stone: Mix intimately so as to form a plastic mass 4 parts of powdered glass, G parts of bole. 6 parts of litharge, 4 parts of linseed- oil varnish and 7 parts of white lead. It will also fasten a number of other metals to a number of other species of stone. CEMENT FOR GLASS. To make a cement that will cement glass take about equal quantities of common putty and litharge, well mixed with boiled linseed oil. CEMENT FOR GLASS PARTS ON LAMPS. A bismuth cement for cementing the glass parts on petroleum lamps is composed of 2 parts Tin, 3 parts Lead, 2 5-10 parts Bismuth. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 39 CEMENT FOR GLASS, WOOD AND METAL. Concentrated sirupous glycerine mixed with finely ground litharge to a thick viscid paste makes a ce- ment to resist heat, water, oil and acids. Glass, metal and wood may be cemented with it. CEMENT FOR HEATED OBJECTS. Cement for objects which have to be heated may be made as follows: Iron filings, 100 parts; clay, 50; common salt, 10; quartz sand, 20. CEMENT FOR IRON CISTERNS. A good cement for iron cisterns is made as follows: Finest iron filings are mixed with vinegar into a paste, which is left to stand until it becomes brown; the mass is then pressed into the joints. CEMENT FOR IRON RAILINGS. Here is a cement for iron railings, gratings to stoves, etc., which, it is claimed, will withstand the blows of a sledge hammer: Mix thoroughly equal parts of sulphur and white-lead with about one-sixth propor- tion of borax. In applying, wet the mixture with strong sulphuric acid and place a thin layer between the two pieces of iron and press firmly together. In five days it will be dry and solid like welding. CEMENT FOR JOINTS. A cement for filling in joints and uniting iron sur- faces is made as follows: Take 100 parts iron fil- ings, no larger than rape seed and free from rust, ^ part of flowers of sulphur and % part of coarsely powdered sal-ammoniac. Wet the mixture with equal parts of vinegar and water and beat it, with a repeti- tion of wetting until it becomes heated, brittle and dry. In this condition place it in the joints and pack in as tightly as you" can with chisel and hammer, thus again making it moist and soft. Finally the joints are filled up evenly and permitted to become dry for 48 hours, after which time, if the work is well done, 40 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. separate black drops will come out upon the hardened crust. For the preservation of this cement ram it into an iron pot and pour water over it. When you wish to employ it, pour off water and add to the mass taken out a large enough quantity of iron filings to give the requisite consistency and pour the water into the pot again. (2) Another cement is composed of 1 part sal-am- moniac, 1 part sulphur, 30 parts iron fillings. (3) Another cement is composed of pulverized cast- iron turnings, 50 parts; flowers of sulphur, 1 part; sal- ammoniac, 2 parts. (4) Another cement is composed of pulverized iron filings 100 parts and pulverized sal-ammoniac 2 parts. Keep this compound in well-closed boxes in a dry place. For use, wet with equal parts of vinegar and water. Heat the cemented places only when they are wholly dry. CEMENT FOR KEROSENE LAMPS. For a cement to mend kerosene lamps, or secure them to the standard when they have become loose: Resin, 3 parts; caustic soda, 1 part; water, 5 parts, mixed with half its weight of plaster of paris. This cement sets firmly in about three-quarters of an hour and has great adhesive power. It is not permeable to kerosene, and is a low conductor of heat. Hot water attacks it but superficially. CEMENT FOR LABELS ON NICKEL. (1) To fasten labels on polished nickel, dissolve 400 parts by weight of coarsely powdered dextrin in 600 parts of water. To this add 10 parts of glucose and 20 parts of glycerine, and heat these ingredients to 194 degrees Fahrenheit. (2) Dissolve 400 parts by weight of dextrin in water, this fluid to be further diluted by the addition of 200 parts by weight of water. Then add 20 parts of aluminum sulphate and 20 parts of glucose, heat- ing the compound in a steam bath to 194 degrees Fahrenheit. At this, the mass which is at first thick, MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 41 becomes clear and thinly fluid. The first of these cements is probably the best. CEMENT FOR LEATHER AND I.RON. For a cement for leather and iron, first paint the iron with either white or red lead. After tbis coating dries, cover it with a cement made of the best glue softened by soaking in cold water, and then dissolve in moderately warm vinegar, to which is added one- third of its volume of white oil of turpentine, and after it is intimately stirred in, it is applied while warm with a brush and the leather is pressed upon it. (2) Digest 1 part of crushed nut galls for six hours with 8 parts of distilled water. Carefully strain the mass; then make a dissolution of glue soaked in its own weight of water for 24 hours. The infusion of galls is warmed and spread on the leather while the glue solution is put on the roughened surface of the heated metal. The dampened leather is pressed upon it, and when dry its adherence is so firm that its removal is impossible without tearing. CEMENT FOR LEAK IN LEAD PIPE. For a leak in lead pipe for hot water take a solder made of 2 parts tin to one of lead, and use with a mixture of resin and sweet oil as a flux. CEMENT FOR LEAKY BOILERS. A cement for leaky boilers (steam or hot water) consists of 2 parts of powdered litharge, 2 parts of fine sand, and 1 part of slacked lime. Mix with lin- seed oil and apply quickly. CEMENT FOR LUTING CRUCIBLE LIDS. For luting crucible lids apply to a concentrated solu- tion of borax a thick paste made from lime freshly slaked to a powder. Allow same to dry slowly and heat as customary. CEMENT FOR MACHINE PARTS. A good cement for machine parts consists of a com- 42 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. pound of gutta percha with filings of iron, steel, cop- per or brass, or as a substitute for the latter, with powdered iron or copper ores. CEMENT FOR METAL AND GLASS. To fasten metal on glass rapidly and securely, thor- oughly mix 50 parts of dried white lead with 100 parts by weight of pulverized white litharge and stir it to a plastic mass by mixing in 1 part of copal lacquer and 3 parts of boiled linseed oil. The process of cement- ing is easy. Coat the lower surface of the metal with the cement, press upon the glass and remove the excess of cement with a proper tool. Then cement dries quickly and becomes very hard. CEMENT FOR METAL LETTERS. A cement for fastening metal letters upon wood, metal, glass, etc., is compounded of 5 parts of oil of turpentine, 5 parts of boiled linseed oil, 15 parts of copal varnish and 5 parts of glue. The dissolution of the glue is effected by putting a pound into a water bath. When this is dissolved, add into the mixture 10 parts of slaked lime. (2) Compound together 7 parts of tar oil, 10 of plas- ter of paris and roman cement, 8 of caoutchouc dis- solved in tar oil, 5 of linseed oil. Boil with litharge and 15 parts of copal varnish, prepared with gum lac. (3) Compound together 5 parts of linseed oil boiled with litharge, 5 parts oil of turpentine and 15 parts of a varnish made of white resin and sandarac. To this 5 parts of marine glue are to be added and on the dissolution of this mixture in a water bath 10 parts of white lead and flake white are to be added. (4) Compound together 10 parts of ochre or washed clay, 2 parts of powdered isinglass, 5 of sifted iron filings, 5 parts oil of turpentine with 15 parts copal varnish made ready with the addition of resin. CEMENT FOR METAL MOUNTINGS ON PORCE- LAIN, BRASS, ETC. For fastening metal mountings on metal, glass, etc., MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 43 dissolve iu water 2 parts of high grade glue. Heat the solution over a coal fire and then add ^ Part of Venetian turpentine and 1 part of good linseed oil varnish. After the articles have been cemented they should remain tied together for from 40 to 60 hours. CEMENT FOR METAL PARTS ON GLASS LAMPS, ETC. A cement for fastening the metal parts on glass lamps, etc., is composed of 20 parts plaster of paris, 20 parts of water, 16 parts of strong lime, 12 parts of resin. Boil the resin with the lime until it is com- pletely dissolved, and when cold, it forms a solid and tenacious mass. Dilute this by the addition of water and carefully work in the plaster of paris. You can dissolve this in petroleum. CEMENT FOR PACKING STEAM PISTONS. A cement for packing stuffing boxes and pistons for steam engines is composed of 10 parts Copper, Zinc or Lead Filings, 1 part Powdered Graphite, 1 part Silicate of Magnesia, 2 parts Gutta-percha, 1 part Sulphur, 5 parts Caoutchouc. If this cement is to be exposed to the direct action of the fire or place where it will encounter a high degree of heat, asbestos should be added to the mix- ture. CEMENT FOR PIPE CONDUITS UNEXPOSED TO HEAT. Cement for pipe conduits which are not exposed to heat is made of 10 parts Iron Fillings, 1 part Sal-ammoniac, 1 part Sulphur, 4 parts Caoutchouc, 1 part Gutta-percha. 44 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. CEMENT FOR PUNCTURED TIRES. A cement for punctured bicycle tires is composed as follows: Bisulphide of carbon, 100 parts; gutta- percha, 20 parts; caoutchouc, 40 parts; isinglass, 10 parts. CEMENT FOR REPAIRING IRON PANS. Take 1 part of fine black lead, 2 parts sulphur; place the sulphur in an iron pan, elevating it from the fire until the commencement of melting, at which time the black lead is to be added. Mix thoroughly until it is well melted and then pour out upon a smooth stone or iron plate. After it is cool, break it into small pieces. A large enough amount of this compo- sition when put upon the crack of an iron pot needing repairing can be soldered with a hot iron just as sheets are soldered. When there is a little hole in the pot, hammer a copper rivet therein and then solder over it with this cement. CEMENT FOR RESERVOIR JOINTS. (1) For cementing steam joints of iron and water joints, mix iron filings with sulphuric acid, diluted with 1 part acid to 30 parts of water or with wine vinegar, and pack the compound into the joints. (2) Make a paste composed of 1 part green vitriol, 2 parts iron filings and wine vinegar. CEMENT FOR SMALL ARTICLES. An improved cement for small iron articles is made as follows: Take 2 parts sulphur and 1 part by weight of fine black lead, put the sulphur in an old iron pan, holding it over the fire until it begins to melt, then add the lead; stir well until all is melted, then pour out on an iron plate, or smooth stone. When cool, break into small pieces. A sufficient quantity of this compound being placed upon the crack of the iron pot to be mended, can be soldered by a hot iron in the same manner as a tinsmith solders his sheets. If there is a small hole in the pot, drive a copper rivet in it, and then solder it with the cement. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 45 CEMENT FOR STEAM BOILERS. Red or white leaf in oil 4 parts, iron borings 3 parts, makes a soft cement for steam boilers. CEMENT FOR STEAM PIPES. For a cement for steam pipes, which will not require the removal of the injured piece, take 5 pounds of paris white, 5 pounds yellow ochre, 10 pounds of litharge, 5 pounds red lead, and 4 pounds black oxide manganese. Mix with great thoroughness and add a small quantity of asbestos and boiled oil. This com- position will set hard in from two to five hours. (2) A cement for steam pipes is made of 10 parts Iron Filings, 1 part Sulphur, 2 parts Caoutchouc, 1 part Gutta-percha. CEMENT FOR STONE WORK. A fine cement for stone work is made of equal parts of resin, yellow wax and Venetian red, mixed up to- gether while in a melted condition. CEMENT FOR STOVE JOINTS. Cement for cementing joints or cracks in iron stoves is composed of clay, salt, sand, coarse iron filings and cow-hair with fresh blood. Another good cement is composed of salt with water, clay and beechwood-ash. CEMENT FOR STOVES. A mixture in the form of a cement which may be used to stop the cracks in stoves so the smoke will not pass through is composed of glycerine and litharge mixed to a paste. Another receipt is to take equal parts of sulphur and white lead, with about a sixth of borax, incorporating them so as to form one homo- geneous mass. When going to apply it, wet it with strong sulphuric acid, and place a thin layer of it between the two pieces of iron, which should then be pressed together. 46 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. (2) For stove cement use pulverized clay, 8 parts; fine iron filings, 4 parts; peroxide of manganese, 2 parts, sea salt, 1 part; borax, 1 part. Thoroughly pul- verize, dry and mix. When required for use, make up the required quantity for immediate use into a thick putty with water. CEMENT FOR TIN AND GLASS. For cementing tin and glass together a putty of pure white or red lead is recommended. Marine glue is also used. A tolerable elastic cement may be made by warming common coal tar until soft, and then mixing rather stiff with Portland cement. CEMENT FOR TINFOIL. For a cement which will attach tinfoil to paper or other articles, dissolve caustic soda in twice its weight of water; add rye flour until no more of the flour will dissolve, adding a little water and stirring all the time. To the paste thus prepared add a few drops of Venice turpentine, liquefying the turpentine by gentle heat. The paste thus made will firmly fix tinfoil. CEMENT FOR WATER PIPES. A cement for joining cast-iron water pipes is made as follows: Intimately mix 8 parts white lead, 2 parts litharge, 1 part of colophony and 24 parts Roman cement. Stir this into a plastic mass with old linseed oil, kept boiling together with one-half its weight of colophony until the dissolution of the latter. (2) Melt together tallow and colophony, stirring in- to the melted mass sufficient finely sifted gypsum to give it the consistency desired. Compound together equal parts of potters' clay, Roman cement, clay and burned lime, all dried separately and ground fine. The mixture is to be worked together with linseed oil. CEMENT FOR ZINC AND GLASS. An inexpensive cement for uniting zinc with glass may be made as follows: One pound of shellac dis- MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 47 solved in 1 pint of alcohol, "with one-twentieth its volume of a solution of gutta-percha in bisulphide of carbon, will dry quickly. A slow-drying one may be made thus: Two ounces of thick glue solution, 1 ounce linseed oil varnish, or % ounce Venetian turpen- tine. Boil together. (2) A cement to unite zinc strongly to glass is thus made: One pound of shellac dissolved in one pint of alcohol, Avith one-twentieth its volume of a solution of gutta-percha in bisulphide of carbon. It dries quickly. CEMENT FOR ZINC ORNAMENTS. A colored cement to repair zinc ornaments is made by thoroughly stirring together fine whiting with soda water solution of 33 degrees Be, to which zinc dust is added, the whole being stirred to a thick, plastic mass, which hardens in from six to eight hours and acquires an unusual calidity and a gray color. If it is desired that it should have a lustrous white color after hardening it can be polished with an agate. CEMENT-GASFITTERS'. Gasfitters' cement consists of 4% parts of resin, 1 part of wax, and 3 parts of Venitian red. CEMENT GLASS. Is composed of tin (2 parts), lead (3 parts), bismuth (2i/2 parts). CEMENT-GROUVELLES' OIL. Grouvelles' oil cement is made by intimately mixing 2^/2, parts of white lead, 1 part of red lead, 2 parts of perfectly dry clay, finely pulverized with boiled lin- seed oil. CEMENT IMPERVIOUS TO OIL. A cement impervious to oil, and, therefore, useful to mend kerosene lamps, is made by taking 3 parts of resin boiled with 5 parts of water and 1 part of caustic soda. Mix with half its weight of plaster of paris. This sets in one hour. 48 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. CEMENTING BRASS ON GLASS. Puscher recommends a resin soap for this purpose, made by boiling 1 part caustic soda, 3 parts of colo- phonium (resin) in 5 parts of water, and kneading into it half the quantity of plaster of paris. This ce- ment is useful for fastening the brass top on glass lamps, as it is very strong, is not acted upon by petro- leum, bears heat very well, and hardens in one-half or three-quarters of an hour. By substituting zinc white, white lead, or air-slaked lime for plaster of paris, it hardens more slowly. Water only attacks the surface of this cement. Wiederhold recommends, for the same purpose, a fusible metal, composed of 4 parts lead, 2 parts tin. and 2y 2 parts bismuth, which melts at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. The melted metal is poured into the cap- sule, the glass pressed into it, and then allowed to cool slowly in a warm place. CEMENTING CRACKS IN STOVES. A paste of equal parts of sifted ashes, clay and salt, and a little water, cements cracks in stoves and ovens. CEMENTING GLASS INTO METAL. (1) Melt carefully 40 parts of white wax, 80 of col- cothar and 160 parts by weight of finely pulverized colophony. Add to the mass when melting 20 parts by weight of Venetian turpentine. The mass is to be removed from the fire and the finished cement mixed until cold with a wooden spatula. This cement is to be applied when warm. (2) Compound together equal quantities of finely powdered pumice and shellac and make application of same while warm. (3) Mix 1 part of white wax and 10 parts of beech. This cement will be found especially valuable for fas- tening metal or glass articles for optical glasses, so that in polishing they remain fixed. (4) Take a good grade of sealing wax, taking pains that same is not too brittle. If there is any brittle- MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 49 ness, remove same with a little Venetian turpentine. When the glass is cemented in a metallic case, both should be heated to the melting point of the sealing wax. CEMENTING IRON TO IRON. A cement for pieces of iron to iron which must be used soon after it is made is composed of 1 part flowers of sulphur, 2 parts sal-ammoniac, 60 parts powdered cast-iron bore chips. Stir into a stiff paste by the addition of water. CEMENTING IRON TO WOOD. To cement iron to wood or stone, melt together 1 part of wax and 4 parts of black pitch, and mix into the melted mass 1 part of brick dust. CEMENTING KNIVES AND FORKS IN SILVER HANDLES. Two parts of pitch are to be melted and then 1 part of brick dust is stirred in. The cavity in the handle is filled with this compound and the tang of the blade is then forced in. CEMENTING KNIVES AND FORKS IN THEIR HANDLES. (1) To cement knives and forks in their handles, compound together 2 parts of pulverized colophony and 1 part of brick dust. The cavity in the handle is to be filled with this compound and then you force in the heated tang of the blade. (2) Another cement which is equally good for this purpose and is applied in the same manner is made by melting together 1 part of sulphur and 4 parts of colophony; iron filings, brick dust or fine sand being mixed into the melted mass. CEMENTING METAL PLATES ON WOODEN BOXES. To cement metal plates on wooden boxes, melt to- gether 1 part linseed oil and 6 parts resin and mix 50 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. into the melted mass y 2 part of plaster of paris and 1 part of burnt ochre. CEMENTING RUBBER OR GUTTA PERCHA TO METAL. Rubber, or gutta percha, may be cemented to metal by the following process: Take pulverized shellac and dissolve in ten times its weight of pure ammonia. In three days the mixture will be of the required coin- sistency. The ammonia penetrates the rubber, and enables the shellac to take a firm hold; but as it all evaporates in time, the rubber is immovably fastened to the metal, and neither gas nor water will remove it. CEMENTING STEAM PIPES. The cement is composed of 5 pounds Paris white, 5 pounds yellow ochre, 10 pounds litharge, 5 pounds red lead, and 4 pounds black oxide of manganese, these various materials being mixed with great thor- oughness, a small quantity of asbestos and boiled oil being afterward added. The composition as thus pre- pared will set hard in from two to five hours, and possess the advantage of not being subject to ex- pansion and contraction to such an extent as to cause leakage afterward, and its efficiency in places difficult of access is of special importance. This is a cement of specially valuable properties for steam pipes, in filling up small leaks, such as a blow-hole in a casting, without the necessity of removing the injured place. CEMENTING THIN METAL SHEETS. To cement thin metal sheets, dissolve isinglass cut into little pieces in a small amount of water at a mod- erate heat, small portions of nitric acid being added, the determination of the proper proportions gener- ally being gained by experiment. Great care should be taken about the amount of nitric acid used. If not enough is taken, the cement will not adhere well; while if too much, the cement will require even weeks for drying. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 51 CEMENTING WITH COPPER AMALGAM. To cement articles with copper amalgam, first brighten them with acid, then heat to from 176 to 194 degrees Fahrenheit, and after the application of the amalgam, firmly press them together. The adhesion of the parts is as firm as if they were soldered; CEMENT IRON. A good cement for iron railing top, iron grating, etc., is made of equal parts of white lead and sulphur with about 1-6 part of borax, these three substances being intimately mixed, forming a homogeneous mass. Before application of this compound, moisten it with strong sulphuric acid, placing a thin layer of it between the two pieces of iron, which are pressed together at once. It will take a period of five days for this to become perfectly dry, at which time all traces of the cement will have disappeared, the job looking as though it had been welded. (2) The "boss" cement for iron is the plain "rust joint," made with iron filings and water, without any acids or sulphur, etc., which the books direct. When well caulked into the joint, if fine filings are used, it is possible to crack the hub of a pipe by the expan- sion of the filings. This can be put in any place where the filings have a chance to wedge themselves as they rust. The recipe is simple, iron filings or turnings and water calked into the crack to be filled. CEMENT IRON. Ii'on cement which will stand red heat is composed of Hessian crucibles 1 part, iron filings 4 parts. Mix these ingredients and wet them with salt water, taking pains not to add too large a quantity of salt, for if this is none the salt would fuse and run from the joints. When this cement is used for joining pipes designed for being laid in the fire, it is placed be- tween the flange of the pipes and pressed together by screws. You can only heat it when it is hard and dry. 52 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. CEMENT IRON, FOR HIGH TEMPERATURES. An iron cement for high temperatures is composed of: (1) Iron filings, 20 parts; lime powder, 45; borax. 5; common salt, 5; permanganate of potash, 10. The borax and salts are dissolved in water and are then mixed with the two first-named ingredients as quick- ly as possible, and used. This cement changes at a white heat to a glassy mass, which is perfectly air- proof. (2) Permanganate, 25 parts; zinc white, 25; borax, 5. These are treated with a solution of soluble glass, and used at once. This cement must be left to dry slowly, and then it will resist the highest temperature. CEMENT-IRON STOVE. For cementing iron stoves, make a paste of wood ashes, 10 parts; burned lime, 4 parts; clay, 10 parts. CEMENT JEWELERS'. A receipt for jewelers' cement, often called Arme- nian cement, is at follows: Five pieces of gum mastic, about as large as a large pea, are dissolved in a suffi- cient quantity of spirits of wine to make the mass liquid. Separately, isinglass which has been softened in water (though none of the water must be used) is dissolved in rum, enough being dissolved to make a 2-ounce phial of a very tenacious glue; 2 little pieces of gum ammoniac being added, which must be rubbed or ground until its dissolution. The entire mass then to be mixed to a sufficient heat. This cement is to be kept in a phial closely stoppered, and said phial is to be placed in boiling water when it is to be used. This cement will unite almost all substances, being prac- tically the only cement for glass and polished steel. CEMENT JOINT. (1) For a joint cement, mix equal parts of red lead and white lead, adding enough boiled linseed-oil to give it the right consistency. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 53 (2) Make a soft putty of finely-powdered red lead with ground lead. CEMENT METAL. Is composed of antimony (3 parts), lead (8 parts), bismuth (1 part). CEMENT-OIL. The oil cements require two or three years to set. The best cement of this kind is composed of pure white lead ground in linseed oil varnish, and kept from the air in close stoppered bottles or packages. CEMENT-RUST FOR IRON. Rust cement for iron is made as follows: W rough t- iron filings, 65 parts; sal-ammoniac, 2y 2 parts; sul- phur (flour), 1% parts; sulphuric acid, 1 part. The solid ingredients are mixed dry, sulphuric acid di- luted with sufficient water being then added. This cement dries after two or three days, and unites with the iron, making a very resisting and solid mass. CEMENTS RUST-JOINT. (1) Cement for setting quickly: 1 part (by weight) sal-ammoniac in powder; 2 parts flour of sulphur; 80 parts iron borings; made to a paste with water. (2) Cement for slowly setting, but better than the above if it has time to set, is made from the same material but in different proportions; 2 parts sal- ammoniac; 1 part flour of sulphur; 200 parts iron borings. CEMENT STEPHENSON'S OIL. Stephenson's oil cement, which must be used short- ly after it is made, is composed of lime fallen to a powder 1 part, fine sand 1 part, litharge 2 parts, stirred into a paste with hot linseed oil. CEMENT "STONE." To make "Stone" cement, take an ordinary resin and powder coarsely so as to melt easily; use of the f>4 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. resin, 1 ounce; yellow wax, 1 ounce; Venetian red, 1 ounce. Melt the resin, then add the wax, and lastly, stir in the Venetian red. This cement may be "pulled" into sticks and used by melting into place with a hot iron on the piece of iron or stone, or both, if conve- nient, may be heated hot enough to melt the cement; then, if held in position until the cement is cold, they will be found strongly fixed together. CEMENT-STOVE. Litharge, 2 parts; powdered slaked lime, 1 part: sand, 1 part. Mix the mass with a sufficient quan- tity of hot linseed oil varnish to form a stiff paste. This cement must be used while fresh and warm. CHILLING IRON VERY HARD. To chill iron very hard, use a liquid made as fol- lows: Soft water, 10 gallons; salt, 1 peck; oil of vitriol, % pint; saltpetre, y 2 pound; prussiate of potash, 14 pound; cyanide of potash. y 4 pound. Heat the iron a cherry red and dip as usual; if not sufficiently hard repeat the process. CHLORIDE OF GOLD. Chloride of gold is prepared by the dissolution of finely laminated gold in aqua regia. CHLORIDE OF PLATINUM. Chloride of platinum is prepared much like chloride of gold, but the aqua regia used should be made of 5 parts of hydro-chloric acid and 3 parts nitric acid. CHLORIDE OF ZINC. Chloride of zinc is obtained by the introduction of zinc into hydro-chloric acid. CHROME YELLOW. Chrome yellow is a precipitation made by mixing a solution of potassium chromate with lead nitric. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 55 CHRYSOCHALK. Chrysoohalk is a copper-zinc alloy composed of 90 parts Copper, 7 9-10 parts Zinc. CHRYSORIN. Chrysorin is a copper-zinc alloy composed of either 72 parts Copper, 28 parts Zinc, or 66 7-10 parts Copper, 33 3-10 parts Zinc. CHURCH BELLS REPAIRING. To repair cracked church-bells stf that their tone will be as good as new, put a furnace in the middle of the bell so as to heat same, and after fusion of the edges of the crack, pour new bell-metal in same. The wall of the bell must be blocked up in order to pre- vent the escape of liquid metal. CLEANING BRASS. Acids should never be employed in cleaning brass, as the metal soon becomes dull after such treatment. The application of olive oil and very fine tripoli, fol- lowed by a washing with soap and water, constitutes the best method of polishing and preserving the bril- liancy. (2) Use sweet oil and whiting. (3) To clean brass, rub the surface of the metal with rotten-stone and sweet oil, then rub off with a piece of cotton flannel, and polish with soft leather. A solution of oxalic acid rubbed over tarnished brass soon removes the tarnish, rendering the metal bright. The acid must be washed off with water, and the brass rubbed w r ith whiting and soft leather. A mix- ture of muriatic acid and alum dissolved in water imparts a golden color to brass articles that are steeped in it a few seconds. (4) The government method prescribed for clean- 56 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. ing brass, and its use in all the United States ar- senals, is claimed to be the best in the world. The plan is to make a mixture of one part common nitric and one-half part sulphuric acid in a stone jar, hav- ing also ready a pail of fresh water and a box of saw- dust. The articles to be treated are dipped into the acid, then removed into the water, and finally rubbed with the sawdust. This immediately changes them to a brilliant color. If the brass has become greasy, it is first dipped in a strong solution of potash and soda in warm water; this cuts the grease, so that the acid has free power to act. (5) In cases where brass cannot be successfully cleaned with oxalic acid it should be rubbed with potash lye and then plunged in a mixture of equal parts of sulphuric acid, nitric acid and water, and then washed, rinsed, dried and polished. (8) To remove the stains of iodide potassa and aqua ammonia stains off brass, scour with a mixture of ammonia water, alcohol, and chalk. For delicate work the chalk should be finely levigated. For heavy work powdered bath brick, rotten stone, red brick ,dust, or Tripoli in sweet oil may be rubbed on with a flannel, and the article polished with leather. The government method has been to dip the article in a mixture of two parts nitric acid and one part sul- phuric acid, immediately removing to water, and finally rubbing with sawdust. Grease is removed with alkali. CLEANING BRONZE. To clean bronze: Take 1 ounce of oxalic acid, 6 ounces rattenstone, 1 or 2 ounces gum arable in pow- der, 10 ounces sweet oil, and a sufficient quantity of water to make a paste. Apply a small portion to the pan, and polish with a flannel or piece of soft leather. CLEANING BRONZE FIXTURES. Boil them in ordinary soap boilers' lye, rinse with water and roll in sawdust or bran. When the bronze is pressed mix the lye with common salt and brush the article thoroughly, allowing no water to touch the back. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 57 CLEANING CHANDELIERS. To clean chandeliers or gas fixtures they should be taken apart and the separate parts boiled for a few minutes in a sharp lye, followed by their cleansing with a soft brush. They should next be drawn through a strong solution of potassium cyanide, then washed in a large boiler with hot water, dried in clean sawdust and then polished with chamois skin. In some cases parts should be lacquered after they hare been put together again. CLEANING COINS AND MEDALS. To clean coins and medals a mildly concentrated so- lution of potassium cyanide is recommended. When medals or other small silver objects are to be cleaned, three vessels or glasses should be placed side by side, two of which are filled with water and the third with a solution of potassium cyanide. The object to be cleaned is to be taken up with brass tweezers and dipped in the vessel containing the potassium cyanide. This will cause the brown or dirty yellow coating on same to vanish at once. The medals, or other ob- jects, are then to be rapidly rinsed in the second and third tumblers, and then dried with a linen cloth. Articles of a larger size, such as spoons, candlesticks, chafing-dishes, etc., are treated by wetting the yellow places with a small tuft of cotton thoroughly moist- ened with a solution of potassium cyanide, then washed and dried. The modus operandi is the same for gilded articles. CLEANING GOLDEN-BRONZE. To cleanse bronze by oil, tallow, fat or other grease, boil it in an infusion of ashes and clean with a soft brush dipped in a fluid consisting of equal parts of nitric acid, alum and water. Dry each piece with a rag, and heat slightly. When it is desired to clean clock pendulums and free them from what is tech- nically known as "mercury dust," they should be heated slightly and the stain touched with a brush dipped in nitric acid. Then rub with a linen rag and heat moderately a second time. 58 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. CLEANING MARBLE. To clean marble mix 2 parts of common soda, 1 part powdered pumice stone and 1 part powdered chalk with water. Rub it well over the marble and then wash the marble with soap and water. CLEANING OLD BRASS. To clean articles of antique brass, such as sword- hilts, mountings, etc., dip them in a compound of % part sulphuric acid and 1 part nitric acid. After a brief immersion take them out, rinse thoroughly in cold water, dry in sawdust and then polish with finely pulverized Vienna lime. GLEANING POLISHING LEATHER. To clean polishing leather prepare a weak solution of soda in warm water, rub soap on polishing leather and allow same to soak for several hours. Then wash thoroughly and rinse in a solution of soda and yellow soap water to keep it soft. If washed in water alone the leather becomes too hard to use, but the small amount of soap remaining in the fibre of the leather penetrates it, making it soft as silk. When it has been rinsed, wring the weather in a coarse towel and dry quickly. When dry, pull it in every direction and brush well. This will give a very soft leather. CLEANING SCREWS OF RUST. To clean screws that are not large enough to be treated separately, put them in a small box, pour a little oil over them and shake for a minute. Next place cotton waste in the box and shake again for a minute. Then put a handful of sawdust in the box and shake again for a minute, removing sawdust by sifting it from the screws in a fine sieve. CLEANING SILVER DIAL PLATES. To clean silver dial plates of clocks, which have lost their bright surface from the effect of smoke or sul- phurous vapors, make pulverized tartar into a paste MANUAL OF RECEIPT^. 59 with water. Some of this paste is taken on a bristly brush and the dial plate is rubbed, being whirled until the silvering assumes again its original white- ness and lustre. Then the dial plate is to be washed with clean water and dried by mildly patting it with a cloth, the final step being its exposure to a moderate heat for a few minutes. CLEANING SILVER ORNAMENTS. To clean silver ornaments, first wash article in a bath of soda lye, then use either a boiling hot solu- tion of tartar, or enwrap them with zinc wire, boiling them in a fluid consisting of 1 part of borax dis- solved in 10 parts of water. CLEANING SOLDER FROM OLD FILES. The best way to clean solder from old files is to soak the file in raw muriatic acid for twenty-four hours, and you will have almost a new file. CLEANING TINWARE. To clean tinware use Canton flannel, with a little alcohol sprinkled on it, and some whiting. (2) To clean tinware which has been stained by using acid when soldering, rub the article first with rotten stone and sweet oil, then finish with whiting and a piece of soft leather. CLICHE METAL Is composed of tin (36 parts), lead (50 parts), cadmium (22 5-10 parts); or, tin (48 parts), lead (32y 2 parts), cadmium (10^ parts), bismuth (9 parts). COATING ALUMINUM. The processes ordinarily used for covering metals with zinc, tin and lead have not, up to the present, appeared to be applicable to aluminum. When a plate of aluminum, mechanically or chemically cleaned, is immersed in melted tin, zinc or lead, these metals slide over the surface of the aluminum with- 60 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. out alloying therewith. In order to fix the above- named metals, it suffices to submit the surface of the aluminum to a vigorous brushing in the metallic bath. For this purpose a steel brush or any other an- alogous instrument may be used. Under such circum- stances the aluminum becomes covered with a regu- lar layer of the melted metal. The success of the op- eration was due, it appears, not to the want of affin- ity of the aluminum for the metals in question, but to the immediate formation in contact with the air, of a thin stratum of oxide of aluminum, which friction re- moves. (2) To coat aluminum with other metals: Dip the aluminum in a solution of caustic potash or soda, or of hydro-chloric acid, until bubbles of gas make their appearance on its surface, whereupon it is dipped in- to a solution of corrosive sublimate to amalgamate its surface. After a second dipping into the potash solution until bubbles of gas are evolved, the metal is placed in a solution of a salt of the deired metal for instance, bluestone for copper, and lunar caustic for silver. A film of the metal is rapidly formed, and is so firml-y adherent that, in the case of silver, gold or copper, the plate can be rolled out or polished. When coating with gold or coppei*, it is best to first apply a layer of silver. When thus treated the aluminum may be soldered with ordinary zinc solder. COATING IRON WITH COPPER. (1) Iron can be coppered by dipping it into melted copper, the surface of which is protected by a melted layer of cryolite and phosphoric acid. (2) To coat iron with copper consists in dipping the article in a solution of oxalate of copper and bi- carbonate of soda, dissolved in 10 or 15 parts of water acidified with some organic acid. COATING SURFACES WITH GLASS. The following is the method for coating metal sur- faces with glass, which may be found to answer various purposes. Take about 125 parts (by weight) MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 61 of ordinary flint glass fragments, 20 parts of carbon- ate of soda, and 12 parts of boracic acid, and melt. Pour the fused mass out on some cold surface, as of stone of metal, and pulverize when cooled off. Make a mixture of this powder with silicate of soda. COATING WITH ZINC. For coating with zinc large pieces that cannot con- veniently be put in a bath: Mix powdered zinc with linseed oil and a dryer so as to make a kind of paint that can be applied with a brush. One coating will prevent oxidation, but two are advisable. COATING CAST-BRONZE. To coat cast-bronze goods use a lacquer consisting of shellac dissolved in alcohol with a little camphor added. Another good lacquer consists of 1 part shal- lac dissolved in 8 or 10 of alcohol, to which the addi- tion is made of 1 to 4 parts of camphor, and rubbed up with a few drops of lavender. COATING CAST-IRON A GLOSSY BLACK. To coat cast-iron a glossy black color that will stand washing and heat, take oil of turpentine and add to it strong sulpuric acid, drop by drop, while stirring, until a syrupy precipitate is formed and no more of it is produced on further addition of a drop of acid. The liquid is now repeatedly washed away with water, every time renewed after a good stirring, until the water does not exhibit any more acid reaction with blue litmus paper. The precipitate is next brought upon a cloth filter, and after all the water has run off the syrup is fit for use. This thickish de- posit is painted over the iron with a brush; if it hap- pens to be too stiff, it is previously diluted with some oil of turpentine. Immediately after the iron has been painted, the paint is burnt in by a gentle heat, and, after cooling, the black surface is rubbed over with a piece of linen stuff dipped and moistened with linseed oil. 62 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. COATING IRON WITH COPPER. One process of coating iron with copper consists of dipping the articles into a melted mixture of one pint of chloride or fluroide of copper and five or six parts of cryolite, and a little chloride of barium. If the article when immersed is connected with the negative pole of a battery it hastens the process. COBALTOUS CHLORIDE. Cobaltous chloride is obtained in blue crystalline scales by heating the metal in chloric acid. COLCOTHAR. Colcothar, otherwise known as sesqui oxide iron, is a by-product in the manufacture of sulphuric acid from the solution of ferrous sulphate. COLORING BRASS. The pieces to be operated on must first be slightly corroded by placing them for a minute or two in di- lute sulphuric acid. They are next rubbed with sand and water, washed and dried. Brown of any shade is produced by dipping the pieces in some solution of a nitrate or in iron per-chlorSde. The shade depends on the concentration of the solution. A chocolate color is obtained by roasting with moist red iron oxide 1 and polishing with a small quantity of galena. Black brass for optical instruments is obtained by dipping the brass objects in a mixture consisting of solutions of gold or platinum and stannic nitrate. To very handsomely color brass black, mix 180 grams carbonate of copper, 400 grams aqua ammo- nia, and 400 grams water. The cleansed brass arti- cles can be dipped into this mixture, frequently with- drawn to inspect them, rinsed in water, and dried in sawdust, and the process is repeated twice; the arti- cles are then freely rubbed with a little linseed oil; the cojor will then be that of ebony. The oil process of silver is somewhat dearer, and another of dipping, hot, into nitrate of copper, is ruinous to delicately MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 63 soldered articles, wherefore the first mentioned meth- od is preferable. A steel color is developed on brass by using a boil- ing solution of arsenic chloride, while a careful ap- plication of a concentrated solution of sodium sul- phide causes a blue coloration. Black, being gener- ally used for optical instruments, is obtained from a solution of platinum chloride, to which tin nitrate has been added. In Japan the brass is bronzed by using a boiling solution of copper sulphate, alum and ver- digris. COLORING BRASS VIOLET. To give a violet color to brass dissolve 4 1 /& ounces of sodium hyposulphide in 1 quart of water. Then dissolve 1 ounce 3% drachms of crystallized sugar of lead in another quart of water and mix the solutions. This mixture is to be heated to 176 degrees Fahren- heit, the articles plunged in same and moved around constantly. The first color which will appear on the brass subjected to this bath will be gold-yellow. This will, however, soon be replaced by violet, and if the article remains longer in the bath it will become green. (2) Colors of similar lustre are also secured by the dissolution of 1 quart of water of 2 11-100 ounces pul- verized tartar, and also by the dissolution in y 2 pint of water of 1 ounce of chloride of tin. These solu- tions are to be mixed, heated and the clear mixture is poured into a solution of 6 34-100 ounces of sodium- hyposulphide in 1 pint of water. This mixture is to be heated to 176 degrees Fahrenheit and the pickled brass objects plunged therein. COLORING COPPER BLUE-BLACK. To give copper a blue-black color dip it in a hot so- lution of lli/i drachms of liver of sulphur in 1 quart of water, stirring same constantly but gently. If a blue-gray shade is desired the solution must be di- luted more. 64 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. COLORING COPPER BROWN. The method of coloring copper brown is as follows: As a corrosive, a liquid is used which is produced as follows: Ten portions by weight of spirits of am- rnonia mixed with an equal amount of vinegar, so that a piece of blue litmus paper dipped into it will be colored red, and to this mixture, which is acetate of ammonia, are to be added 5 parts of verdigris and 3 parts of ammonia. By means of this mixture large objects that you wish to color should, after being carefully cleaned of grease and rust, be painted with a soft brush and then left to dry in a warm room. By repeating this application with the brush, you can get the brown in any shade you like. Small ob- jects should be boiled in the liquid, and during the boiling should be stirred with a tin or copper spoon. After securing the desired color they are to be washed in hot water and subsequently dried in sawdust. COLORING SOFT SOLDER. In order that solder employed for soldering copper may have the same color, the first step in prepai-ation is making a saturated solution of pure sulphate of copper and the application of the same to the solder. When the solder is touched with an iron or steel wire it becomes colored with a copper film which may be augmented at pleasure by repeated dampening with the solution of copper and touching with the wire. If it is desired that the soldering should show a yel- low color, 2 parts of solution of sulphate of copper should be compounded with 1 part of saturated solu- tion of sulphate of zinc, the mixture applied to the coppered place and all rubbed with a zinc rod. Should it be desired to gild the soldered place, copper it in accordance with the above description and coat with a solution of isinglass or gum and scatter bronze powder over it. This foi'ms a surface which can be polished when the gum is dried. (2) When brass is soldered with soft solder, the difference in color is so marked as to direct attention to the spot mended. The following is the method of MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 65 coloring soft solder: First prepare a saturated solu- tion of sulphate of copper (bluestone) in water, and apply some of this on the end of a stock to the solder. On touching it with a steel or iron wire it becomes coppered, and by repeating the experiment the de- posit of copper may be made thicker and darker. To give the solder a yellowish color, mix one part of a saturated solution of sulphate of copper, apply this to the coppered spot, and rub it with a zinc rod. The color can be still further improved by applying gilt powder and polishing. On gold jewelry, or colored gold, the solder is first coppered as above, then a thin coat of gum or isin- glass solution is applied and bronze powder dusted over it, which can be polished after the gum is dry, and made very smooth and brilliant; or the article may be electro-plated with gold, and then it will all have the same color. On silverware the coppered spots of solder are rub- bed with silvering powder, or polished with the brush and then carefully scratched with the scratch brush, then finally polished. COLORING SOLDER. Dissolve five cents' worth of sulphate of copper in just as little water as possible. Solder smoothly, pol- ish very bright with a cloth, and with a stick wet the solder with the solution and it will turn copper-color. It can be improved by polishing with bronze powder. (2) To color tin solder yellow, it is best first to prepare a saturated solution of copper vitrol in water, dip an emery stick into it and touch the soldered part with it. Then take a piece of wire and touch the part again with this, by which a coppering takes place. To turn this yellow, take one part of a sat- urated solution of vitriol of zinc in water mixed with two parts of a copper vitriol solution, brush the cop- pered spot and touch with a zinc rod. A brass pre- cipitate will result. The color may be still further improved by burnishing with gold powder and polish- ing with polisher. 06 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. COLORING SOLDER LIKE COPPER. When copper is soldered and the solder is to be col- ored like the surrounding copper, this can be done by moistening the solder with a saturated solution of vitriol of copper, and then touching the solder with an iron or steel wire. A thin skin of copper is precipi- tated, which can be thickened by repeating the pro- cess several times. COLORING ZINC. Beautiful and durable rainbow colorations are im- parted to zinc by a very simple process. The zinc to be thus treated may be in any form, cast or sheet, the special requisites being that it be pure, dry, polished or filed; the coloration is the more brilliant according as the materials of the bath are pure, and thus the best effects are obtained with chemically pure re- agents. The bath consists of 30 grammes tartrate of copper, 40 grammes caustic potash and 400 grammes distilled water. On subjecting the zinc to the action of this kind of bath for a couple of minutes it appears an agreeable violet; for three minutes, a deep blue; four and one-half minutes, green; six and one-half minutes, a golden yellow; eight and one-half minutes, purple violet. (2) To give zinc a black color dip the article in a boiling solution of 3 17-100 ounces sal-ammoniac and 5 64-100 ounces pure green vitriol in 4% quarts of water. The loose black precipitation on the articles is removed by means of a brush and the article is again dipped in the hot solution and then held over a coal fire until the evaporation of ammonia salt. A rep- etition of this three or four times gives a black coating of tenacious adherence. By the surpeusiou of zinc in a nickel bath, slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid, a blue-black coating is formed without the employ- ment of a current. The same result can be secured by dipping the zinc articles in a solution of 2 11-10 ounces of a double sulphate of ammonium and nickel, and a like amount of sal-ammoniac in 1 quart of water. The article assumes first a dark yellow color, and then be- MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 07 comes brown, purple-violet aud indigo-blue in succes- sion, and will stand a slight brushing with a scratch brush and polishing, (3) The various colors on zinc are obtained as fol- lows: To give it a reddish-brown color, rub with a solution of chloride of copper in liquid ammonia. To give it a yellow-brown shade rub with a solution of chloride of copper in vinegar. To give it a copper- red color immerse the article in a bath of chloride of copper and dissolve in spirits of sal-ammoniac. To give it a yellowish tone add crystallized verdigris. To give it a bronze color rub it with a paste of pipe- clay, to which has been added a solution of 1 part tartar, 2 parts crystallized soda and 2 parts crystal- lized verdigris. COMPOUND FOR HARDENING STEEL. A valuable compound for hardening steel consists of: 1-3 Resin, 1-3 Ammonium Chloride, 1-3 Borax, also a trace of Silicic Acid. COPPERING SHEET IRON. Clean the article thoroughly by a treatment in a bath of muriatic acid, 1 part; water, 4 parts, to re- move all scale. Wash in hot water and tumble in sawdust wet with a solution of sulphate of copper in water, to which add as much sulphuric acid as is equal to the weight of the dry sulphate of copper. Use about two ounces of each to a gallon of water. You may also copper work that cannot be easily tum- bled by dipping in the above solution hot. The work must be clean and free from grease. COPPER NITRATE. To form copper nitrate dissolve the copper in nitric acid, concentrating the solution in a copper kettle. COPPER POWDER. A copper powder is prepared by putting a strip of 68 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. sheet-zinc iu a saturated solution of blue vitriol com- pounded with the same volume of hydro-chloric acid. The precipitation of the copper is as a fine powder, which, after the supernatant is decanted, is washed first with a weak solution of alcohol and then with a stronger one, quickly, to prevent oxidation. COPPER RESINATE. Copper resinate is produced as follows: Dissolve 8.55 kilogrammes of ammonia soda (18 per cent.) in J)0 liters of water, and heat the whole to a boil. Now throw in gradually and in small quantities 45 kilo- grammes of good resin, stir diligently, and allow to boil until the resin has completely dissolved and has transformed into resin soap. Next dissolve 23.4 kilo- grammes of copper sulphate (blue vitriol) in 18 liters of boiling water, and pour the resin soap into it. The cupric resinate now separates as a thick mass, which floats on the liquid. Gather, press out in a cloth, and dry, whereupon the resinate will be ready for use. CORRECTING BAD SMELLS. To correct any bad smell which may arise in a tin- shop place coffee in an iron vessel over the fire, close all doors and windows, and let the coffee burn until the room is thoroughly impregnated with the same. Let the room remain closed a short time, and when opened again it will be fresh and wholesome again in a few minutes. It is an excellent thing in cases of sickness, where fevers cause offensive smells. CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE. Corrosive sublimate is obtained by the dissolution of mercury in aqua regia. It is very poisonous. COVERING FOR STEAM PIPES. The following receipt produces a cheap and simple non-conducting covering for steam pipes: Four parts coal ashes, sifted through a riddle of four meshes to the inch; 1 part calcined plaster; 1 part flour; 1 part fire clay. Mix the ashes and fire-clay together to the MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 69 thickness of thin mortar, in a mortar-trough; mix the calcined plaster and flour together dry, and add to it the ashes and clay as you want to use it; put it on the pipes in two coats, according to the size of the pipes. For a six-inch pipe put the first coat about 114 inches thick; the second coat should be about ty inch thick. Afterwards finish with hard finish, same as applied to plastering in a room. About 2% hours will be required to set on a hot pipe. CRUCIBLES THEIR PREPARATION. A refractory crucible can be made by compounding 1 part of quartz sand with 2 parts pipe-clay. The lat- ter, however, must be very fine. CRYSTALLIZING TIN PLATE. In crystallizing tin plate the figures are more or less beautiful, according to the degree of heat and relative dilution of the acid. Place the tinplate, slightly heat- ed, over a tun of water, and rub its surfaces with a sponge dipped in a liquor composed of 4 parts of aqua fortis and 2 of distilled water, holding 1 part of common salt or salt ammoniac in solution. When- ever the crystalline spangles seem to be thoroughly brought out, the plate must be immersed in water, washed with a feather or a little cotton (taking care not to rub off the film of tin that forms the feather- ing), forthwith dried with a low heat, and coated with a lacquer varnish, otherwise it loses its luster in the air. If the whole surface is not plunged at once into cold water, but if it be partially cooled by sprinkling water on it, the crystallization will be finely varie- gated with large and small figures. Similar results will be obtained by blowing cold air through the pipe on the tinned surface, while it is just passing from the fused to the solid state. (2) Sulphuric acid, 4 ounces; of water, 2 to 3 ounces, according to the strength of the acid; salt, 1*4 ounces. Mix. Heat the tin hot over a stove, part borax and y 2 calcium fluoride. DELTA METAL. Delta metal is an alloy of zinc, iron and copper, to which, during fusion, phosphorus is added, and then, according to the use it is to be put, further additions of tin, lead and manganese. This metal has the color of a gold-silver alloy, and can be worked either hot or cold. You cannot weld it, and it is soldered with difficulty. It does not rust. A common composition of this metal is as follows: Copper, 55 82-100 per cent; lead, 76-100 per cent.; manganese, 1 38-100 per cent.; iron, 76-100 per cent.; nickel, 6-100 per cent.; zinc, 41 41-100 per cent. DISCOVERING LEAD IN TIN. To discover lead in tin, a small bit of tin is detached and put into a watch glass, with a drop of nitric acid and two or three drops of water; the glass is then gently heated over a flame, and when the solution is complete a few drops of water and a concentrated so- lution of iodine of potassium are added, when, if lead is present, a yellow precipitate will be the result. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. T3 DISTINGUISHING CAST-IRON, STEEL AND WROUGHT IRON. Brighten the surface of the article to be tested by filing, and apply a drop of nitric acid. Allow the acid to work for a few minutes, -then wipe same off and rinse with water. If the metal be wrought iron, a dead white or ash-gray spot can be seen. If cast- iron, a deep black one. If steel, a brownishrblack one. ENAMELING CAST-IRON, A new process for enameling cast-iron objects, in which the principle is adopted that the enamel wall take better on white than on gray iron, as the latter contains a quantity of free carbon (graphite). Sul- phur is used in casting which will unite and form sulphuret of carbon, and the iron is covered with a skin of white iron where exposed to the action of the sulphur. Ready-made objects are painted over with sulphuric acid of GO degrees Fahr., and then heated, by which means the acid in the pores acts on the graphite in a similar manner. ENAMELING CASTINGS. The formula consists in treating the castings with dilute hydrochloric acid, which dissolves a little of the metal, and leaves a skin of homogeneous graphite holding well to the iron. The iron is then washed in a receiver with hot or cold water, or cooked in steam, so as to remove completely the iron chloride that has been formed. Finally, the piece is allowed to dry in the empty receiver, and a solution of india rubber or gutta percha, in essence of petroleum, is injected, and the solvent, afterwards evaporated, leaves a hard and solid enamel on the surface of the iron work. Another plan is to keep the chloride of iron on the metal instead of washing it off, and to plunge the piece into a bath of soda silicate and borate. Thus is formed a silico-borate of iron, very hard and brilliant, which fills the pores of the metal skin. As for the chlorine disengaged, it continues with the soda to form sodium chloride, which remains in the pickle. 74 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. ENAMELING IRONWARE WITH PORCELAIN. Ironware is enameled with porcelain by first clean- ing the surface free from moulding sand, then heating the article in an oven to a low red in the dark, or what is called a black heat, to slightly oxidize the sur- face and free it from grease. Then brush the pow- dered enamel mixed with water, and dry quickly. Then bake with a red heat. For the second, or fin- ishing coat, brush on the glazed coat and treat as the first. For the first coat make a mixture of 66 parts calcined flint ground to a powder, 34 parts borax. Melt these together and pulverize, then add 12 parts potter's clay. Mix the whole with water to the con- sistency of paint, and apply. For the glaze coat take 15 parts borax, 73 parts powdered glass, 12 parts soda. Mix and melt, then pulverize and apply with water. Bake at a red heat. ENAMEL TEST FOR. To test the enamel of ordinary kitchen utensils for the presence of lead, apply a drop of concentrated nitric acid to the enamel of the vessel, first carefully cleaning same, and evaporate it until dry, with a moderate heat. Then wet the place, subject it to the action of the acid with a drop of sodium iodide, and if there is lead present a yellow iodide of lead will be formed. ENGLISH SILVER SOAP. This polish is made by the dissolution, in 2 parts of water (soft), of 2 parts of Castile soap. The resultant paste is stirred into 6 parts of fine whiting, poured into molds and cooled. If it is desired that this soap should have a rose tinge, substitute for the whiting 2 parts (finest quality) white tripoli, 1 part jewelers' rouge and 3 parts pulverized chalk. Perfume the soap before putting it into ithe molds with a drop or two of oil of Lavender, which gives it a very dainty odor. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 75 ENGLISH STERLING METAL. English sterling metal is a copper-zinc alloy com- posed of 66 2-10 parts Copper, 33 1-10 parts Zinc, 7-10 parts Iron. ETCHING LIQUID FOR STEEL. Mix 1 ounce sulphate of copper, y> ounce of alum, and y a teaspoonful of salt reduced to powder, with 1 gill of vinegar and 20 drops of nitric acid. This liquid may be used for either eating deeply into the metal or for imparting a beautiful frosted appear- ance to the surface, according to fhe time it is al- lowed to act. Cover the parts you wish to protect from its influence with beeswax, tallow or some other similar substance. ETCHING NAMES ON STEEL. With equal quantities of copper sulphate (blue vitriol), sodium chloride (common salt), well-pow- dered and mixed together, names or other marks can be etched on steel. The wax process must be used, although soap will answer, or any other substance not coated upon by acids. Spread the beeswax or soap in a thin, even coating, over the article to be etched, and with a sharp-pointed awl, write or draw the design upon the wax-covered surface. Every line must be cut cleanly, and every particle of the coating removed, otherwise a break will appear in the etched line. When the drawing has been made satisfactory, put a. "tinker's dam" around the wax-covered spot; this is done by rolling out a piece of putty into a long, thin roll, bend it around the wax-covered spot and press it lightly down, thus making a little reservoir to hold the acid or other corroding substance. Mix up the salt and sulphate of copper, fill inside the dam and moisten with water to hasten their action. When satisfied that the etching is deep enough, or tired of waiting for it to work, wash off the corroding mix- ture and scrape off the wax, or dissolve it away with turpentine, alcohol or naphtha. If the etching is not 76 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. deep enough, an ink roller, such as is used on print- ing presses, may be passed over the surface, a coat- ing of ink put on. This will prevent any acid action upon the surface thus protected, and the solution may be reapplied until the etching is sufficiently deep. If successive etchings are necessary, the plate should be rinsed and warmed after each removal of the corroding solution, and more ink applied before another lot of fresh corroder is put to work. In regular work, where large numbers of zinc etch- ings are made, "dragon's blood" is used to protect the surface instead of printer's ink, but for occasional work ink is good enough. Nitric and sulphuric acids may be used for etching, and the effect of the com- position described at the beginning of this article de- pends upon the chlorine and sulphuric acid set free by the combination of the two salts. ETCHING ON GLASS. For etching on glass, prepare the glass by warming it and rubbing white wax over it until the surface is covered thinly. Trace the design through the wax with a pointed instrument. Pour on liquid fluoric- acid and leave to act upon the glass; this will make a clean, transparent cut. To produce opaque lines, like ground glass or frosted work, place the fluoric acid in a lead utensil and place in hot sand, or in some way warm the acid without melting the lead pan. Place the prepared glass over the pan, and the fumes from the acid will act upon the glass. This should be done out of doors or in some place where the fumes will not be inhaled. A simple method of the process is TO wet the prepared glass with sulphuric acid and then sprinkle on finely powdered flour spar (Fluoride of calcium), by which hydrofluoric acid is set free and attacks the glass. ETCHING ON STEEL. The process is similar to that used by engravers. Acid is spread over the part to be etched, then the figures or name is cut on with a needle-point, and the acid and cold bath finishes the work. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 77 FASTENING ASBESTOS TO IRON. To fasten asbestos to iron use billsticker's paste; prepared asbestos, which comes in cans, will adhere of itself when it dries. FASTENING KNIFE AND FORK HANDLES. A material for fastening knives or forks into their handles when they have become loosened by use, is a much-needed article. The best cement for this pur- pose consists of 1 pound of colophony (purchasable at the druggist's), and 8 ounces of sulphur, which are to be melted together, and either kept in bars or re- duced to a powder. One part of the powder is to be mixed with half a part of iron filings, fine sand, or brickdust, and the cavity of the handle is then to be filled with this mixture. The stem of the knife or fork is then to be heated and inserted into the cavity, and when cold it will be found fixed in its place with great tenacity. FASTENING LEATHER TO IRON. To fasten leather to iron, digest one part of crushed nut-galls for six hours with eight of distilled water, and strain the mass. Soak glue in its own weight of water for twenty-four hours and then dissolve it. The warm infusion of galls is spread upon the leather and the glue solution on the roughened surface of the warm metal, the moist leather is pressed upon it and, when dry, it adheres so firmly that it cannot be removed without tearing. FASTENING PAPER LABELS TO IRON. The place where the label is to be put is rubbed with half an onion. The label is then stuck on with gum, glue or paste. The firm adherence of the vege- table mucilage of the onion to the iron and its com- bination with the paste on the paper prevents any cracking off. This will also stand heat. FASTENING ROOF. How to fasten a tin roof that has worked loose: Out 78 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. tin strips about 1 inch long by % inch in width, and use % inch screws. Lay the strip of tin close to the seam; after scraping the paint off sufficiently, punch a hole through one end, put in a screw, turn the tin over the head and solder well. FASTENING TIN DOWN. In fastening tin down which has become loose, use No. 7 screws, % inch. Take a small piece of tin % of an inch wide by 1% inch long, punch a hole in one end, leaving room to cover the screw head and solder well. Use resin and hot copper to take the paint off in good shape by brushing with a broom while hot. The tin holds the screw better than solder alone. FERRIC CHLORIDE. Ferric chloride is made by the addition of chlorine water to a solution of ferrous chloride. I can also be made by the dissolution of ferric oxide in hydra-chlo- ric acid. If placed in water, it dissolves into a yellow fluid. FERRIC OXIDE. For polishing purposes Ferric oxide is used both in a natural and in a prepared state. The natural ferric oxide, such as specular and red iron ores, hem- atite, etc., should be ground fine and elutriated. A common form of ferric oxide is found in the polishing agent variously known as crocus, colcothar, jewelers' rouge (or -red) or caput mortuum, which is obtained by heating ferric sulphate in a preparation of fuming sulphuric acid. FERRIC SULPHATE. Ferric sulphate is made by heating 5 parts of fer- rous sulphate with 1 part of sulphuric acid and 15 parts of water, and adding to the boiling solution nitric acid in small quantities until the color of the fluid changes from black to a brownish-yellow. When evaporated, it yields a pale-yellow crystalline mass which, on the compounding with sulphuric acid, gives anhydrous ferric sulphate. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 79 FERRO-MANGANESE. Ferro-manganese is composed of 75 parts Manganese, 75 parts Iron. FERROUS CHLORIDE. Ferrous chloride is made by the dissolution of iron in hydro-chloric acid. After the solution is evaporated pale-green crystals are secured, which oxidize in the air and which easily dissolve in spirit of wine. FERROUS SULPHATE. Ferrous sulphate, otherwise known as green vitriol, or copperas, is made by the dissolution of iron filings in dilute sulphuric acid. When the solution is boiling hot it is filtered and the filtered product is mixed with spirit of wine, upon which the ferrous sulphate will separate as a fine, white, crystalline meal, which is washed with spirit of wine and rapidly dried be- tween blotting papers. FILING CAST-IRON, BRONZE OR BRASS. In filing large surfaces of cast-iron, bronze or brass, a file with keen cutting teeth is required; use a new file on such surfaces. On narrow surfaces a file *hnt is partly worn can be used with about as good effect as a new file. When a file is so-called worn out on brass or soft metal, it is in pretty good condition to be used on steel or iron. Many mechanics prefer such files to new ones. FIRE BRICK. A good lining for stoves may be made by pulver- izing old brick, or any fire brick, and mixing with this sufficient clay to make it plastic. Before making a coal fire dry out the water. The coal fire will bake and make a solid fire brick lining of your plastic back. 80 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. FIRE EXTINGUISHER. Bicarbonate of ammonia and sulphate of soda in strong solution is the best compound to put in bottles for hand-grenades to extinguish fire. FLUX FOR HARD SOLDERS. The best flux for hard solders is a soldering fluid consisting of hydrochloric acid (spirit of salt), satur- ated with zinc. To prepare this flux put y 2 pint of muriatic acid (also called spirits of salts and hydro- chloric acid) into a glass, and add small pieces of clean zinc, which will be dissolved by the acid. Let it stand for several hours, till the acid has ceased to act; then add a small quantity of water, say a wine- glassful, when boiling will recommence. Let it stand undisturbed for a few hours, and again add a small quantity of water. Continue this until the quantity of water added equals that of the acid (y* pint). When all action has ceased, add 1 ounce of sal-ammoniac; let it stand twelve hours, then decant the clear liquid into a bottle, which should be kept well fastened when not in use. Throw away the sediment, and add a little sal-ammoniac. FROSTING BRASS. To frost brass and give it a decorative finish, boil the article in potash, rinse in water, plunge in nitric acid, wash again, then dry in hot sawdust, and give the still hot metal a coat of varnish. FROSTING TINPLATES. This is done by heating the tinplate until rather too hot to hold; then dip in a mixture of hydrochloric acid, 1; nitric acid, 1; water, 4. Rinse, dry in hot sawdust (which must be from non-resinous wood), and lacquer the plate being still hot enough to do everything at one operation, as it were. FURNACE LINING. A good compound for lining furnaces is made of 10 parts of lime and 90 parts of ganister. The lime MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 81 is first burned and slaked, and the addition of the ganister is made twelve hours afterward. The addi- tion of enough water for the required consistency is then made and the whole intimately mixed. Line the furnace with the compound and dry by making a moderate fire in the furnace. GALVANIZING CAST-IRON. Thoroughly clean the pieces by tumbling, heat them and plunge while hot into the following liquid: Ten pounds hydrochloric acid and sufficient sheet zinc to make a saturated solution. In making this solution, when the evolution of gas has ceased, add muriatic, or, preferably, sulphate of ammonia. 1 pound, and let it stand still dissolved. The castings should be so hot that when dipped in this solution and instantly removed, they will immediately dry, leaving the sur- face crystallized. Next plunge them while hot, but perfectly dry, in a bath of melted zinc, previously skimming the oxide on the surface away, and throw- ing thereon a small amount of powdered sal-am- moniac. Another method, given more in detail, and, there- fore, more useful, is as follows: The castings are first to be cleaned and scoured by immersion in a bath of water acidulated with sul- phuric acid. The strength of acid required for this purpose will depend somewhat on the nature of the casting and the amount of scale to be removed. It is sufficient for us to say, however, in this connection, that the surface of the casting must be made per- fectly clean in order to insure satisfactory results in the subsequent processes. They may be scoured with sand and water or scraped with a tool in order to make sure that every portion of the surface has be- come clean. After the parts have thus been cleaned they are thrown into cold water in order to prevent oxidation. Pure zinc, covered with a thick layer of sal-ammoniac, is then melted in a bath and the iron is dipped in the preparation. In removing the pieces they are raised slowly to allow of draining, and are 82 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. then thrown into cold water. The latter is done in order to keep the surface bright. Where the parts are very large it is necessary to heat them somewhat before plunging them into the molten bath of zinc, as otherwise the presence of so large a body of cold metal would chill the zinc and prevent the formation of a satisfactory coating. The object of the coat of sal- ammoniac above the melted zinc is to prevent the waste of zinc and also to act as a flux to the pieces passing through it into the metal. In some cases the sal- ammoniac is mixed with earthy matter or sand, in or- der to lessen the volatilization of the sal-ammoniac, which becomes quite fluid. In order to give a crys- talline appearance to the surface coated by the zinc, sometimes a light coating of tin is given to the article. GALVANIZING WITH GOLD. To galvanize with gold, dissolve a little gold in a mixture of muriatic acid and aqua fortis, and add to it 2 parts of alcohol. Copper immersed in this solu- tion for half an hour will be completely galvanized. GERMAN BRITANNIA METAL. German Britannia metal is composed of 4 parts Copper, 24 parts Ammonia, 72 parts Tin, or 5 parts Zinc, 2 parts Copper. 9 parts Antimony, 84 parts Tin, or 6 parts Zinc, 10 parts Copper, 64 parts Antimony, 20 parts Tin. GILDING LIGHT TEST FOR. To discover if any metal has a thin gold coating or whether its appearance is due to a gilding lacquer, MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 83 clean a portion of the article which you desire tested with either ether or alcohol and dissolve same in ni- tric acid free from any trace of chlorine. If the ar- ticle is gilded, the layer of the gold floats in or upon the solution. When a removal of the varnish coat- ings cannot be brought about by ether or alcohol, treatment by chloroform is required. To make sure of the presence of gold the following test will be found useful: Completely dissolve the article to be tested in nitric acid, dilute resultant solution with water, filter, preferably with a small filter, wash out, dry and glow. The glowed residue is treated with the aid of heat, with a small portion of aqua regia poured off or filtered, as necessity requires, and the filtrate evaporated until dry, at a moderate heat. If there is gold in the article a slight lustrous separa- tion of some will be seen on the edges of the vessel. Mix the residue from evaporation with from 12-100 to 18-100 cubic inches of water, and divide the re- sultant solution into three portions, which are to be used in the following tests: (1) Add a drop of concentrated solution of proto- chloride; if there is any gold in the mixture there is a resultant dark-brown separation. (2) Add to mixture a drop of solution of ferrous sulphate; the presence of gold gives a brownish or bluish separation. (3) Add oxygenated water; the pressure of gold will give a blue separation. (4) To determine whether gold or alloys have been used for gilding, a solution of chloride of copper will be found efficacious. If the gilding be imitation gold, a touch of the solution gives a black mark, the copper separating out through the zinc in the yellow metal there is no such discoloration if the metal be pure. Another test is a solution of nitrate of silver, or chloride of gold. The .first of these will give a gray or black spot and the second a brown spot, if the gilding be imitation gold, but neither have any effect on the genuine metal. 84 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. GLAZING METALS. A mixture of 20 parts of carbonate of soda. 11 of boracic acid, and 125 of broken (flint) glass and melted, and the mass poured out on a stone or plate of metal. .When cold it is pulverized and mixed with a silicate of soda (water glass) solution of 50 degrees Fahr. The metal is covered with this paste and then heated until it melts. This enamel is said to adhere well to iron and steel. GLUING CLOTH TO TIN. To fix a metallic to a soft substance requires a tough substance, not a varnish, nor yet a glue, but India-rubber cement. Warm the metal and rub over with the cement, and when yet hot, apply the cloth and press with a hot flatiron. GLUING LABELS ON TIN BOXES. Labels can be glued on tin boxes, etc., exposed to moisture, by the following process, and they will not come off, even if dipped or allowed to remain in water. The white of an egg should be mixed with half as much water, or the dessicated albumen of commerce dissolved in two or three times its weight in water. Apply with a brush to the surfaces to be united, then iron with a very hot flatiron. Several layers of paper and glue thus treated will render any box or any- thing of the kind impermeable to water. GLUING LEATHER TO IRON. To glue leather to iron, paint the iron with some kind of lead color, say that and lampblack; when dry cement with a cement made as follows: Take the best glue, soak it in cold water till soft, then dissolve in vinegar with a moderate heat, then add one-third of its bulk of pure turpentine, thoroughly mix, and by means of the vinegar make it of the proper consist- ency to be spread with a brush, and apply it while hot; draw the leather on quickly and press it tightly MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 85 in place. If a pulley, draw the leather around as tightly as possible, lap and clamp. GOLD BEATING. To beat gold, put same into a stone crucible, melt and pour it into a mold, thus giving it a right width for rolling. Run it through rollers whose pressure is such that a bar of gold 1 inch thick, say, and about 3 inches long, after being rolled several times, be- comes a strip about 14 yards long and as thick as a hair. These strips are to be cut into inch squares, which are put into a receptacle technically known as a "cutch," made of 180 skins, 3% inches square. Vel- lum is a good substance to use for these skins. Al- ternate the gold squares and the pieces of skin until the "cutch" is filled up. Then beat the cutch for about a quarter of an hour with a 16-lb hammer, take out the gold, divide it into quarters with a skewer and put them in a shoder. The skins in a shoder come from the bum-gut of an ox. each animal furnishing but two skins. These shoder skins are 4 inches square and the gold squares are alternated in them the same as they were in the cutch. After beating them for about one and a half hours, with a l(Mb. hammer, they are taken out and quartered with a small piece of reed. Then put them in a mold until the latter is filled and beat with a 7-lb. hammer for three or four hours. The leaf is then ready for trim- ming. It will be observed that with each successive beating the length of time becomes longer and the size of the hammer smaller. GOLD BRONZE. Gold bronze powder, such as is used for decorating furniture, tinware, etc., is composed of bisulphate of tin. It may be mixed with copal varnish for appli- cation, GOLD BRONZING FOR IRON. A superior gold bronze iron is obtained by the dis- solution of 3 ounces of finely powdered shellac in 1% 80 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. pints of spirits of wine. This varnish is to be fil- tered through linen and with the filtrate you must triturate enough Dutch gold to give is a lustrous ap- pearance. Brush the iron previously polished and heated over with vinegar, and apply the color with a brush. After it is dry coat the article with a mixtvire of copal and amber lacquer. GOLD-COLORED SURFACE OX BRASS. A gold-colored surface on brass may be produced with a liquid prepared by boiling together for about fifteen minutes 4 parts of caustic soda, 4 parts of milk sugar, and 100 parts of water, to which 4 parts of a concentrated solution of sulphate of copper should then be added with constant stirring. The mixture is then cooled to 67 degrees Fahr., and the well-cleansed articles are immersed in it for a short time, when the gold color will appear. A longer immersion results in the formation of a bluish green tint, and a still more prolonged action causes the formation of iri- descent colors. GOLD GENUINE TEST FOR. To test gold for its genuineness, dissolve in chlorine water and the resultant solution will possess a slight- ly yellowing color. GOLD SALT. Gold salt is prepared by dissolution of 8 parts of gold in aqua regia. Two parts of common salt are added and the solution evaporated to dryness. A second method consists in the dissolution of 1 part gold in a mixture of 1 part of nitric acid and 4 parts of hydro-chloric acid. GOLD STAINS FOR BRASS. To give gold stains to brass the articles are to be immersed in a compound of I 5^ drachms damp Carbonate of Copper, 3 drachms Caustic Soda, 2 ounces Water. It will be only a few minutes before the shades of MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 87 color make their appearance, and by watching same the appearance of the exact shade can be observed. When this is obtained the article is to be rinsed in water and dried in fine, soft dust. GOLD TO PURIFY. To purify gold, make a thorough mixture of 1 part Vitriol (green), 1 part Sea Salt, 1 part Alum, 3 parts Brickdust. Form this compound into a paste by the addition of a little wine vinegar, and place the gold in the center of it. GOLD WARE-TEST FOR. A good method for the testing of gold ware is pre- sented by the touchstone, which is a kind of black, Silesian basalt. When you draw a piece of gold across its surface a gold streak is left, which is un- affected by nitric acid moistening and which differs from streaks left by brass and other base alloys, which rapidly dissolve. GRAY COATING ON ZINC. To obtain a gray coating on zinc precipitate ar- senic in a heated bath of 8 46-100 drachms sodium pyro-phosphate in 8 2-100 ounces arsenious and 1% drachms of 98 per cent, potassium cyanide to 1 quart of water. Use a current strong enough so that a strongly perceptible development of hydrogen ensues. For anodes use either carbon plates or platinum sheets. GRAY COLOR FOR IRON AND STEEL. To give iron and steel a gray color first polish the article and then coat it with a mixture of 2 parts of sulphuric acid, a drop or two of acetic acid and 8 parts of butter antimony. GREEN COATING FOR ZINC. To give zinc a dark or light green coating dissolve 88 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 50 parts hydro-sulphite of sodium in 500 parts of boiling water and immediately pour the solution into 25 parts of sulphuric acid. This will cause the milk and sulphur to separate and then ball together in lumps and settle. The hot liquid containing sul- phurous acid and sulphate of sodium is decanted, and in it the zinc, first cleansed, is placed. It will not be long before it will acquire a brilliant light-green coat- ing, which only needs to be washed and dried. The longer the exposure of the zinc to this hot bath, the thicker the coating and the darker and more brilliant the color. It is essential, in order to insure a fine and brilliant deposit, that the temperature should not be allowed to fall below 145 degrees Fahrenheit. Dip the articles thus treated in hydro-chloric acid; dilute 1 part of acid to 3 of water and there is a consequent evaporation of sulphureted hydrogen, and this enam- el-like coating loses its lustre and becomes lighter in color. This dull surface is not affected by the aque- ous solutions of aniline colors. If you desire a brown- ish-color for your article add 15 parts of chrome alum and 15 more of the hypo-sulphite to the above solu- tion. GUM COPAL. Copal varnish is one of the very finest varnishes for japanning purposes. It can be dissolved by lin- seed oil, rendered dry by adding some quicklime at a heat somewhat less than will boil or decompose the oil by it. This solution, with the addition of a little turpen- tine, forms a very transparent varnish, which, when properly applied and slowly dried, is very hard and durable. This varnish is applied to snuff boxes, tea boards and other utensils. It also preserves paint- ings and renders their surfaces capable of reflecting light more uniformly. Tf powdered copal be mixed in a mortar with cam- phor it softens and becomes a coherent mass, and if camphor be added to alcohol it becomes an excellent solvent of copal by adding the copal well ground, and employing a tolerable degree of heat, having the ves- MANUAL OP RECEIPTS. 89 sel well corked, which must have a long neck for the allowance of expansion, and the vessel must only be about one-fourth filled with the mixture. Copal can also be incorporated with turpentine, with one part powdered copal to twelve parts pure turpentine, sub- jected to the heat of a sand-bath for several days in a long-necked mattress, shaking it frequently. Copal is a good varnish for metals, such as tin; the varnish must be dried in an oven, each coat, and it can be colored with some substances, but alcohol var- nish will mix with any color. GUN METAL. Copper, 18 parts; tin, 2 parts. Melt. HAND FIRE GRENADES SOLUTION FOR. Bicarbonate of ammonia and sulphate of soda in strong solution for hand grenades to extinguish fire. This compound will keep indefinitely without losing its active properties if the bottle is kept well corked. HARDENING CAST-IRON. To harden cast-iron mix 2 ounces nitric acid and 2 pounds concentrated sulphuric acid with 2^ gallons of water. The article is to be plunged into this mix- ture when at a cherry red heat. HARDENING COMPOUND FOR STEEL. A compound for hardening steel consists of 3 parts of yellow prussiate of potash pulverized, 1 part pul- verized borax, 1 part pulverized saltpetre and % part sugar of lead, all intimately mixed. The steel to be hardened is heated to a red heat and is then taken from the fire and .this powder scattered over it. The steel is then replaced in the fire and after being brought to the requisite heat is cooled in cold rain water. HARDENING COMPOUND FOR STEEL AND WROUGHT IRON. A good hardening compound for steel and wrought iron consists of the following parts, all pulverized 90 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. and mixed intimately, viz.: One part each of saltpetre and calcined cow's hoofs and yellow prussiate of pot- ash, 1-30 aloes, 1-30 gum-arabic and * common salt. The compound is to be scattered upon the wrought iron at a white heat, and steel at a red heat, and thoroughly burnt in. HARDENING COPPER. To harden copper melt same with 1 to 6 per cent, of black oxide of manganese in a crucible. This is to be stirred thoroughly and the scum removed before it is poured out. The same method is to be used in preparing brass, a small quantity of zinc being added to the melted copper and oxide of manganese. HARDENING MIXTURE FOR IRON. A hardening mixture for iron consists of 1 Ib. Yellow Prussiate of Potash. y 2 Pt. Hydro-chloric Acid. 2 oz. Charcoal, 2y 2 Ibs. Bonedust, 2 Ibs. Rock Salt. The red-hot iron is plunged into this mixture twice, being heated between the two times, and then, while yet hot, is quenched in cold water. These proportions may vary slightly, and at times it is well to add a little lime. HARDENING SOFT IRON. To harden soft iron wet it with water and scatter over its surface powdered yellow prussiate of potash. Then heat to a cherry red heat, which causes the potash to melt and coat the surface of the soft iron. Then immerse quickly in cold water and repeat the operation. A white heat must not be used, as this would not harden but oxidize the iron. Care must be used not to use red prussiate of potash instead of the yellow. It will not answer. HARDENING STEEL PIANO-WIRE. To harden steel piano-wire first heat it red-hot and MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 91 then cool. Next plunge same in a bath composed of 21 parts Tin, 26 parts Antimony, 12 parts Zinc, 1 part Bismuth, 40 parts Lead. This bath should be heated above its melting point and the wire should stay in it until it has acquired the temperature of the bath. The time which this takes varies directly with the thickness of the wire. HARDENING TOOLS. In order to harden tools without making them warp or having their interior become too hard and brittle, the following compound will be found de- sirable: 500 parts Peruvian Bark, 25 parts Common Salt, 15 parts Yellow Prussiate of Potash, 15 parts Saltpetre, 50 parts Hartshorn Shavings. 100 parts Black Soap. Spread the soap in a layer 39-100 of an inch deep, then scatter on it the pulverized mixture of the other substances and knead the paste thus formed. Con- tinue this kneading until the mass is formed into a stick about 2 inches in diameter. Allow this com- pound to dry for twenty-four hours before using, then care must be taken to heat the cast-steel article only to dark red. Then the portions to be hardened are coated with the compound and cooled off. When this is done the interior as well as the portions not coated remain soft and tough, while the coated portions become hard as glass. To find the degree cast-steel should be heated for this, it is perhaps well to experiment with a round steel wire, about y 2 inch thick. HARDENING ZINC. To harden zinc bring into the melted metal from 1 7G-100 to 3 52-100 ounces of sal-ammoniac per pound. 92 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. IMPROVING THE COLOR AFTER BRASS HAS BEEN JOINED WITH WHITE SOLDER. If brass has been joined with white solder the dif- ference of color invites attention to the part where the junction has been effected. This may be ob- viated, it is said, by applying a saturated solution of sulphate of copper to the solder. If the place is then touched with a steel or iron wire it becomes cop- pered, and the coating of copper increases in thick- ness as the operation is repeated. To give the re- quired yellow color, one part of saturated solution of sulphate of zinc is added to two parts of sulphate of copper. This mixture is applied to the coppered spot, and is rubbed in with a rod of zinc. The color can be further improved by using a gilding powder and by polishing. INK-CARMINE. To make red or carmine ink for bookkeeping pur- poses: Take 12 grains of carmine, add 3 ounces of aqua ammonia and heat gently, without boiling, for seven or eight minutes; then add 18 grains of gum arabic, stirring constantly. Keep well corked. INKCOPYING. Ink for copying without a press: A regular copying outfit is desirable and most satisfactory for this pur- pose, but not absolutely essential. Mixing a little glycerine into the ink with which the letter is written will enable the letter to be copied by laying it face downward on tissue paper and rubbing with the hand over the back of the letter. Perhaps a more satisfac- tory way is to prepare a special ink for this purpose, as follows: Heat one ounce extract of logwood, broken coarsely, and one drachm of carbonate of soda (crys- tallized) in a porcelain vessel containing 8 ounces of rain water until the solution is of a deep red color; remove from the fire and stir in 1 ounce of glycerine, 15 grains of neutral chromate of potash, dissolved in a little water, and two drachms of a mucilaginous solution of finely pulverized gum arabic. The im- MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 93 pression of th.e letter is taken on thin moistened copy- ing paper, at the back of which is placed a sheet of writing paper. INK FOR MARKING TINWARE. A good ink for marking tinware is composed of the following: Reduce asphalt or black varnish with tur- pentine to the desired consistency and keep it in a corked bottle. When you use it shake the bottle and hold varnish side up after withdrawing the cork. Another ink can be made by reducing shellac var- nish with alcohol and adding a sufficient quantity of lampblack. This forms a jet black, lusterless ink, which is insoluble in water, but can be removed by a drop of alcohol. For marking on tin plates, mix to- gether, without the use of heat, 1 part of pine soot with 60 parts of solution of nitrate of copper in water. INK FOR RUBBER STAMPS. Rubber stamps are now in universal use for busi- ness purposes, and are used with inks of various col- ors. These inks anyone may make for himself. They are usually prepared by dissolving aniline colors in water and adding glycerine. An excellent blue rub- ber stamp ink is made of three parts aniline blue 1 B., 10 parts distilled water, 10 parts pyroligneous acid, 10 parts alcohol, 70 parts glycerine. Rub the blue down with water, add the glycerine gradually, and when the solution is effected add the other ingre- dients. Other colors can be substituted for blue as follows: Three parts methyl violet; 2 parts diamond juchsin I.: 4 parts methyl green; yellowing. 5 parts Vesuvian B. (brown); 4 parts nigrosin W. (blue- black); omit the pyroligneous acid and use 3 parts eosin BBN for bright red. INK FOR STENCIL MARKING. A fine ink for stencil marking is made as follows: Sulphate of manganese. 2 parts; lampblack, 1 part; sugar, 4 parts; all in fine powder and triturated to a paste with a little water. 94 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. INK FOR WRITING ON STEEL. To make ink for writing on steel, tinplate or sheet zinc, mix 1 ounce of powdered sulphate of copper, and y 2 ounce powdered sal-ammoniac, with 2 ounces of diluted acetic acid, adding lampblack or vermil- lion. INK FOR WRITING ON TIN. An ink for writing on tin is made by the dissolution of 1 part copper in 10 parts nitric acid, to which solu- tion 10 parts of water is added. The tin should be cleaned with dry whiting, and the writing should be done with a quill. INK FOR WRITING ON ZINC. To write on zinc first clean the surface of the zinc by rubbing with a sponge which has been plunged in dilute hydro-chloric acid and fine sand. Next dis- solve 1 ounce and 4 drachms of sal-ammoniac and 1 ounce and 4 drachms of crystallized verdigris in a pint of warm water. Filter the solution after it has cooled and keep it in tightly corked bottles. After the zinc has been written on by this compound it should be allowed to remain in water for a few hours, and then dried and used without varnish. The writ- ing should be (preferably) done with a quill. Should the zinc look greasy or should the writing run to- gether the surface should be cleaned with a rag dipped in chalk. INSULATING COVERING FOR STEAM PIPES. Insulating coverings for steam pipes is made by boiling together 1 Ib. Rye Flour, 1 Ib. Rice Flour, 1 Ib. Treacle, 1 Ib. Cow's Hair, with 150 qts. Water. to which mass 80 Ibs. of infusorial earth is gradually stirred. This compound should be applied in sev- MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 95 eral layers to the slightly warmed pipes, so that a layer a little more than y 2 inch in thickness is formed. (2) Another covering for steam pipes is made from asbestos pulp, cork waste and felt, filled into a cast- ing surrounding the pipes. (3) Another compound for the insulation of steam pipes consists of 250 parts Pulverized Clay, 300 parts Fine Ashes from Boiler Flues, 100 parts Finely Ground Limestone, 350 parts Finely Ground Coal. These are to be intimately mixed with GOO parts Water, 10 parts Sulphuric Acid (of 50 degrees Be.) and after the addition of 15 parts of hogs' bristles the compound is to be made as homogeneous as possible. Heat the article to be covered, and then gradually apply this compound in separate layers of one-half an inch thickness until a thickness of iy 2 to 1% inches is obtained. INSULATION FOR ELECTRICAL CONDUITS. A good insulating material for electrical conduits is made by the mixture of 3-4 parts finely pulverized resin with 66 parts fine glass or quartz powder. To this compound the addition is to be made of 26 parts of either beeswax, spermaceti or paraffine and 36 parts of either crude or boiled linseed oil. The pro- portions of the various ingredients should be in ac- cordance with circumstances. If the compound as intended for exposure to the sun, the amount of wax used should be small; while the converse is true should the compound be employed for underground lines. Another insulating material for electrical con- duits is made by constantly stirring in a boiler, at a heat between 92 degrees and 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 29 parts Wood Tar, 36 parts Shellac, 32 parts Asbestos, 1 part Mineral Wax. Should this compound be insufficiently hard, a small- 1)0 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. cr quantity of wood tar can be used. If a mass of ex- traordinary hardness is desired, the amount of as- bestos used can be decreased and wax can be omitted and about 24 parts of infusorial earth clay, without any traces of iron in it, or ground slate, can be used. IRON PLATES CUTTING OUT WITH SUL- PHURIC ACID. To cut out iron plates with sulphuric acid, com- pound together 1 part of acid with 6 of water. Then coat the iron with wax, drawing the required design in same and placing the plate in this compound for several hours, which will cause the parts making the design to drop out. The same process is to be pursued for etching names, ornaments, letters, etc., upon sword-blades. IRIDESCENT METAL COLORING. In order to cause the colors of the rainbow to ap- pear upon gilded articles of brass, iron and other met- als, as well as any other clean metal surface, make a bath by boiling for a half hour 14V drachms litharge and 3^ ounces caustic soda with 1 quart of water. The object to be colored, which should have been first thoroughly pickled and cleaned, is to be connected with the wire of the positive pole of a bettery, while, as an anode, a platinum wire is used. If this wire is plunged in the bath without coming in contact with the article the layer at once is colored with a variety of colors, which take their origin from a more or less thick layer of the precipitated oxide of lead. If a piece of stout parchment paper is placed in a vertical position between the articles to be colored and the platinum wire, colors of all possible contrasts may be obtained. The parchment, however, should also be provided with radical segments, or numerous holes. ISOLIT. Isolit is the commercial name of a matrix mass for reproducing coins, medals, etc. It is composed of ozokerite in a pure state with the addition of 5 per cent, of sulphur and 7 per cent, of petroleum. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 97 JAPAN BLACK. Black japan is made from Naples asphaltum, 50 pounds; dark gum-amime, 8 pounds, use, add linseed oil, 12 gallons; boil; add dark gum amber, 10 pounds, previously fused and boiled with linseed oil, 2 gal- lons; add the dryers. Used for wood or metal. (2) Black japan is made: 1. Asphaltum, 3 ounces; boiled oil, 4 quarts; burnt amber, 8 ounces. Mix by heat, and when cooling thin with turpentine. 2. Am- ber, 12 ounces; asphaltum, 2 ounces; fuse by heat. Add boiled oil, % pint; resin, 2 ounces. When cooling add 16 ounces oil of turpentine. Both are used to varnish metals. JAPANNING BLACK GROUND FOR. A good black ground for japanning is prepared by grinding fine ivory black with a sufficient quantity of alcoholic shellac varnish on a stone slab with a rnuller until perfectly smooth black varndsh is obtained. If other colors are required the varnish is mixed and ground with the proper quantity of suitable pigments in a similar manner. The following are good com- mon black grounds: (1) Asphaltum, 1 pound; balsam of copaiba, 1 pound; oil of turpentine, q. s. The asphaltum is melted over a fire, and the balsam, previously heated, is mixed with it. The mixture is then removed from the fire and mixed with turpentine. (2) Moisten good lampblack with oil of turpentine, and grind it very fine with a muller on a stone plate. Then add a sufficient quantity of ordinary copal var- nish and rub well together. (3) Asphaltum. 3 ounces; boiled oil, 4 quarts; burnt amber, 8 ounces; oil of turpentine, q. s. Melt the as- phaltum, stir in the oil, previously heated, then the umber, and when cooling thin down with the oil of turpentine. An extra black is prepared from: Amber 1 , 12 oz.; as- phaltum, purified, 2 oz.; boiled oil, y 2 pint; resin, 2 oz.; oil of turpentine, 16 oz. Fuse the gum and resin and 98 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. asphaltum, and the hot oil, stir well together, and when cooling add the turpentine. A white ground is prepared from copal varnish and zinc white or starch. From one to six or more coats of varnish are applied to the work of japanning, each coat being hardened in the oven before the next is put on. The last coat in colored work is usually clear varnish. JAPAN-BLACK GROUNDS FOR. Black grounds for japans may be made by mixing ivory black with shellac varnish; or for coarse work, lampblack and the top coating of common seed lac varnish. A common black japan may be made by painting a piece of work with drying oil (oil mixed with lead) and putting the work into a stove, not too hot, but of such a degree, gradually raising the heat and keeping it up for a long time, so as noit to burn the oil and make it blister. This process makes very fair japan and requires no polishing. JAPAN GROUNDS-BLUE. Blue japan grounds may be formed of bright Prus- sian blue. The color may be mixed with shellac var- nish, and brought to a polishing state by five or six coats of varnish of seed lac. The varnish, however, is apt to give a greenish tinge to the blue, as the var- nish has a yellowish tinge, and blue and yellow form a green. Whenever a light blue is desired the purest varnish must always be used. JAPAN GROUNDS GREEN. A good green japan ground may be made by mixing Prussian blue with the chromate of lead, or with tu- meric, or orpimen (sulphuret of arsenic), or ochre, only the two should be ground together and dissolved in alcohol and applied as a ground, then coated with four or five coats of shellac varnish. A very bright green is made by laying on a ground of Dutch metal, or leaf of gold, and then coating it over with distilled verdigris dissolved in alcohol, then the varnishes on MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 90 the top. This 4s a splendid green, brilliant and glow- ing. JAPANNING. The process of japanning upon light iron work, like the frames of oil and gasoline stoves, is simple, but requires an oven constructed on purpose for this kind of work, where any amount of it is to be done. Japan varnish is first applied, and ithe articles then placed in an oven heated to a temperature of from 250 to 300 degrees. The articles remain in the oven from two to four or more hours, according to the color desired, black and brown requiring the longest baking and being the most durable colors. Light colors require a less degree of heat and not so long time, but are not so durable. For japanning, the ovens are usually made of brick for safety, and heated by an iron flue or stovepipe passing around the room, the fire being on the outside. Some place a heater in a chamber below the drying room, arranged to let the hot air pass up into the drying room. There should be no communication between the hot air chamber and the open fire that could possibly admit the vapor of the varnish to the fire. Steam at high pressure may be used for heating the oven when convenient, and is safer than a stove. (2) Japanning is the art of covering bodies by grounds of opaque colors in varnish, which may be afterwards decorated by printing or gilding, or left in a plain state. It is also to be looked upon in an- other sense, as that of ornamenting coaches, snuff- boxes, screens, etc. All surfaces to be japanned must be perfectly clean. - JAPANNING OLD TEA-TRAYS. First clean them thoroughly with soap and water and a little rotten stone; then dry them by wiping and ex- posure to the fire. Now, get some good copal varnish, mix with it some bronze powder, and apply with a brush to the denuded parts, after which set the tea- 100 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. tray in an oven at a heat of 212 or 300 degrees, until the varnish is dry. Two coats will make it equal to new. JAPAN-ORANGE-COLORED. Orange-colored japan grounds may be made of yel- low mixed with vermilion or carmine, just as a bright or rather inferior color is wanted. The yellow should always be in quantity to make a good full color, and the red added in proportion to the depth of the shade. If there is not a good, full body of yellow, the color will look watery, or bare, as it is technically termed. JAPAN PAINTED. To paint japan work, the colors to be painted are tempered, generally, in oil. which should have at least one-fourth of its weight of gum sandarach, or mastic, dissolved in it, and it should be well diluted with turpentine, that the colors may be laid on thin and evenly. In some instances it does well to put on water colors or grounds of gold, which a skillful hand can do and manage so as to make the work appear as if it was embossed. These water colors are best prepared by means of isinglass size, mixed with honey, or sugar candy. These colors, when laid on, must receive a number of upper coats of varnish. JAPAN-PURPLE. Purple japan grounds are made by a mixture of lake and Prussian blue or carmine, or for an inferior color, vermilion. When the ground is laid on and perfectly dried, a fine coat of pure boiled oil is then laid on and perfectly dried, but it is a good method to have a japan not liable to crack. But a better plan is to use this oil in the varnish given, the first coat, after the ground is laid on, and which should contain considerable pure turpentine. In every case where oil is usd for any purpose for varnish, it is all the better if turpentine is mixed with it. Turpentine en- ables oil to mix with either alcohol or water. Alkalies have this property also. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 101 JAPAN SCARLET. Ground vermilion may be used for this, but being so glaring it is not beautiful unless covered over with rose-pink or lake, which have a good effect when thus used. For a very bright crimson ground, saf- flower or Indian lake should be used, always dissolv- ing dn the alcohol of which the varnish is made. In place of this lake, carmine may be used, as it is more common. The top coat of varnish must always be of the white seed-lac, and as many coats given as will be thought proper; it is easy to judge of this. JAPAN SHEET IRON. The varnish for black japan consists of pure nat- ural asphaltum with a proportion of gum anime dis- solved in linseed oil and thinned with turpentine. In this layers this japan has a rich dark-brown color and only shows a brilliant black in thicker coatings. For fine work, which has to be smoothed and pol- ished, several coats of black are applied in succession, each being separately dried in 'the stove at a heat which may rise to near 300 degrees Fahr. Body colors consist of a basis of transparent varnish mixed with special mineral paints of the desired color, or with bronze powders. The transparent varnish used by japanners is a copal varnish which contains less dry- ing oil and more turpentine than is contained in the ordinary painters' oil varnish. JAPAN TORTOISE SHELL. This varnish is prepared by taking of good linseed oil 1 gallon, and of umber half a pound, and boiling them together until the oil becomes very brown and thick, when they are strained through a cloth and boiled again until the composition is about the con- sistency of pitch, when it is fit for use. Having pre- pared this varnish, clean well the copper or iron plate or vessel that ds to be varnished (japanned), and then lay vermilion, mixed with shellac varnish, or with drying oil, diluted with turpentine, very thinly on the places intended to imitate the clean parts of 102 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. the tortoise shell. When the vermilion is dry brush over the whole with the above umber varnish diluted to a due consistency with turpentine, and when it is set and firm, it must be put into a stove and undergo a strong heat for a long time, even two weeks will not hurt it. This is the ground for these beautiful snuff boxes and tea boards which are so much ad- mired, and these grounds can be decorated with all kinds of paintings that fancy may suggest, and the work is all the better to be finished in an annealing oven. JAPAN TR ANSPARENT. Transparent japan may be made of oil of turpen- tine, 4 ounces; oil of lavender, 3 ounces; camphor, % drachm; copal, 1 ounce; dissolve. Used to japan tin. but quick copal varnish is mostly used instead. JAPAN YELLOW. To make yellow japan grounds, dissolve tumeric in spirits of wine, and strain through a cloth, and then mix with pure seed-lac varnish. Saffron will an- swer for the same purpose in the same way, but the brightest yellow ground is made by a primary coat of pure chrome yellow, and coated successively with the varnish. Dutch pink is used for a kind of cheap yellow japan ground. If a little dragon's blood be added to the varnish for yellow japan, a most beau- tiful and rich salmon-colored varnish is the result, aud by these two mixtures all the shades of flesh-col- ored japans are produced. KARAKANE. Karakane, also called Japanese Bell Metal, is cast in various Qualities, among them being the following: 1. Copper (10 parts), tin (2 parts), lead (2 parts). 2. Copper (10 parts), tin (3 parts), lead (2 parts), iron (Y 2 part), zinc (1 part). 3. Copper (10 parts), tan (4 parts), iron (% part), zinc (1^ parts). 4. Copper (10 parts), tin (2% parts), lead (1 1-3 parts), zinc <% part). MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 103 KARMASCH'S BRITANNIA METAL. Karmarsch's Britannia Metal is composed of 1 6-10 parts Bismuth, 1 4-10 parts Zinc, 3 6-10 parts Copper, 5 parts Antimony, 85 parts Tin. KEEPING MACHINES FROM RUSTING. To keep machines from rusting: After cleaning well, grease with melted fat in which some camphor has been dissolved, and add 'to it a sufficient quantity of graphite. After four hours rub with a fine rag. KEEPING METALS FROM RUSTING. To keep metals from rusting rub them off perfectly clean and paint them over with the following mix- ture: Dissolve half an ounce of camphor in a pound of lard, or in that proportion, according to the quan- tity used, and before it cools enough to be hard, mix in enough black le%d to give the whole the color of iron. This should be well and thoroughly applied all over the metal, being careful not to omit any spots, and let it remain over night. The next day rub off clean with rags. If kept dry by the weather, metal treated in this way will keep perfectly free from rust all winter. Olmstead's varnish is made by melting 2 ounces of resin in 1 pound of fresh, sweet lard, melting the resin first and then adding the lard, and then mixing thoroughly. This is applied to the metal, which should be warm, if possible, and perfectly cleaned, and afterward rubbed off. This has been well proved and tested for many years, and it is all that it has been recommended to be. It is particularly well suited for planishes and Russia iron surfaces which a slight rust is apt to injure very seriously. KEEPING POLISHED EDGES FROM RUSTING. To keep polished edges from rusting, and still not detract from the appearance of the polished edge, put on a thin film of paraffine. 104 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. KEEPING TINWARE BRIGHT. To keep tinware nice and bright scour it every two or three weeks with finely sifted coal ashes. KELLER'S BRITANNIA METAL. Keller's Britannia Metal is composed of 1 8-10 parts Bismuth, 1 part Copper, 10 4-10 parts Antimony, 85 7-10 parts Tin. KINDLER FIRE. To make a simple and good fire kindler, that will start a coal or wood fire without much trouble: Take 2 quarts of tar and 6 pounds of common resin; melt them; let the mass cool somewhat; then mix it with as much pine sawdust, containing a small portion of charcoal bruised tolerably fine, as can be worked into it. Spread the mixture out upon a board while hot. to the thickness of about an inch, and with an old knife proceed to score it into squares an inch and a half each way, and when cold break up into conve- nient cakes. LACQUER BRASS. A good lacquer for brass: Tumeric, 1 ounce; saffron, 14 ounce; annatto, the same quantity; rectified spirits. 1 pint. Digest at gentle heat for several days. Strain the mixture through coarse linen, then put the mix- ture into a bottle and add 3 ounces of coarsely pul- verized seed-lac. Place in a moderate heat and shake occasionally until dissolved. LACQUER COFFEE-COLORED. Lacquer of various tints can be made by putting 4 ounces best gum gamboge into 32 ounces spirits of turpentine, 4 ounces dragon's blood into the same quantity of spirits of turpentine as the gamboge, and 1 ounce annatto into 8 ounces of the same spirits. The three mixtures should be made in different ves- MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 105 sels. They should then be kept for about two weeks in a warm place, and as much exposed to the sun as possible. At the end of that time they will be fit for use, and any desired tints may be obtained by making a mixture from them, with such proportions of each liquor as the nature of the color desired will point out. LACQUER COLORLESS. To make a good colorless lacquer, dissolve bleached shellac in pure alcohol, settle and decant. Make the lacquer very thin. The usual lacquer for brass is made of ordinary shellac and alcohol, made very thin, settled and decanted. LACQUER-ELASTIC. A very elastic lacquer, perfectly supple, and not liable to peel off, may be made thus: About 120 Ibs. of oil varnish are heated in one vessel, and 33 Ibs. of quicklime are put into 22 Ibs. of water in another. As .soon as the lime causes an effervescence, 55 Ibs. of india-rubber are added. This mixture is stirred and then poured into the vessel of hot varnish. The whole is instantly stirred so that the ingredients may become completely incorporated. Straining and cool- ing through the process. When required for use it is thinned with the necessary quantity of varnish, and applied hot or cold to wood, iron, walls, waterproof cloth, paper, or other material. LACQUER FOR DIPPED BRASS. A lacquer for dipped brass is composed of the fol- lowing: Alcohol, proof specific gravity of not less than 95-100ths, 2 gallons; seed-lac, 1 lb.; gum copal, 1 ounce; English saffron, 1 ounce; annatto, 1 ounce. LACQUER FOR POLISHED BRASS. The first requisite is to see that the article of pol- ished brass to be lacquered is sufficiently heated to retain the lacquer. This may be done by keeping the surface at a heat above 212 degrees. The lacquer should not be too thick, and may be thinned down 106 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. with 95 per cent, alcohol, until it appears through the bottle, as a semi-transparent or ainber liquid. A few trials with this lacquer and heat applications after lacquering will give success. LACQUER FOR STEEL. A lacquer for steel may be made of 10 parts of clear mastic, 5 of camphor, 15 of sandarac, and 5 of elemi gums dissolved in pure alcohol, filtered, and ap- plied cold. This varnish is transparent. LACQUER FOR TIN. For a good and cheap lacquer for tinplate: Color lac- varnish with tumeric to impart the color of brass to it, and with annatto to give it the color of copper. Tinplate dipped into molten brass will be coated with it. A deep gold-colored lacquer is made by mixing seed-lac, 3 oz.; tumeric, 1 oz.; dragon's blood, }4 oz.; alcohol, 1 pint. Digest for a week, frequently shak- ing, decant and filter. LACQUER GOLD. To a pint of strong alcohol, add as much gamboge as will give it a bright yellow color, then add 2 ounces seed-lac in fine powder, and set it in a warm place until dissolved. LACQUER GOLD FOR METAL GOODS. A gold lacquer, remarkable both for hardness and for brilliancy of color, is made as follows: A clear solution of shellac is prepared with picric and half per cent, of crystallized boric acid, each separately dissolved in alcohol. LACQUER-IMITATION JAPANESE. To make a good imitation of Japanese lacquer, take oil of turpentine, 90 parts, and oil of lavender, 120 parts, and after freeing it from water which may be present by adding a small quantity of calcined cal- cium chloride, and then carefully pouring off the oil, combine it in a bottle with 2 parts of camphor and MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 107 30 parts of copal. Place the bottle for twenty-four hours in hot ashes, shaking it occasionally, and finally filter the contents through a cloth. The filtrate is again allowed to stand for twenty-four hours, when the clear, supernatant fluid is poured off from the sediment. LEAD CHLORIDE. Lead chloride is obtained in adding a soluble chlo- ride to a solution of lead salt. LEAD SULPHATE. Lead sulphate is a precipitation made by mixing a solution of a lead salt and sulphuric acid. LECHESNE. Lechesne is the name of an alloy consisting of 900 parts- Copper, 100 parts Nickel, 1% parts Aluminum. It is also made of 600 parts Copper, 400 parts Nickel, y drachms spirits of sal-ammoniac. POLISHING ZINC. (1) To polish sheet zinc a good method is found in the following: First scrape and finally polish the zinc with pulverized wood charcoal or Vienna lime. The polished articles are generally dried in heated saw- dust and after drying freed from adhering sawdust with a cotton rag or soft leather. (2) Old zinc can hardly be made to look like new, but may be improved by scouring it with dilute acid and a scratch brush or dust of scouring brick. It may then be rubbed with some finer polishing substance. (3) Mix 1 part of muriatic acid with 2 parts of water. Apply to the zinc and rub the same with sand until bright. Then dry well and rub with a cloth dipped in oil. POLISH STEEL ON IRON. Pulverize and dissolve the following articles in 1 qt. hot water: Blue vitriol, 1 oz.; borax, 1 oz.; prussiate 138 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. of potash, 1 oz.; charcoal, 1 oz.; salt, y 2 pt.; then add 1 gal. linseed oil, mix well, bring your iron or steel to the proper heat and cool in the solution. It is said the manufacturer of the Judson governor paid $100 for this receipt, the object being to case- harden iron, so that it would take a bright polish like steel. POTASSIUM FERRIC Y AM DE. Potassium ferricyanide is made by allowing chlorine to act upon a solution of yellow prussiate of potash. It comes in the form of prismatic and occasionally tubular crystals. POTIN. Potin is a copper-zinc alloy composed of 71 9-10 parts Copper, 24 9-10 parts Zinc. 1 2-10 parts Tin, 2 parts Lead. POWDER FOR SILVERING METALS. A powder for silvering metal is made as follows: Nitrate of silver, 10 parts; common salt, 10 parts; cream of tartar, 30 parts; moisten with wate>* and ap- piy. PRESERVATIVE FOR IRON AND STEEL. To make a permanent preservative for iron or steel, it is best to use nothing but linseed oil, thickened with a pigment related to the metal itself, and native oxide or a roasted oxide of iron is the best for the purpose. Boiled linseed oil will form a skin, through which no oxidation can take place. PRESERVING POLISHED IRON SURFACES. To preserve polished iron surfaces from rust, melt together 7 parts fat (tallow), and 1 part resin, stir- ring the same until it cools. Apply in a half liquid s,tate; if too stiff, thin with benzine or petroleum. It preserves the polish, and can easily be removed. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 139 PREVENTING RUST IN IRON AND STEEL GOODS. For the purpose of preventing steel goods and ground hollow ware, also halter chains, etc.. from rusting while exhibited as samples, and which is cheap and will come off easily, caoutchouc oil is rec- ommended. Spread it over the articles with a piece of flannel, in a vei'y thin layer, and then allow it to dry. This will prevent the condensatioa of moisture, which causes rust, and can be removed by repeating the treatment and washing the articles after twelve or twenty-four hours. PREVENTING RUST IN RUSSIA IRON. To prevent Russia iron from rusting, take beeswax and chip very fine and dissolve in benzine; let it stand twenty-four hours before using. Apply same to iron with a very soft brush or woolen cloth. (2) To prevent Russia iron from rusting, use the following: Add 1% pints of cold water to 7 ounces of quick lime. Let the mixture stand until the super- natant fluid is entirely clear; then pour this off and mix it with enough olive oil to form a thick cream, or, rather, to the consistency of melted and recon- gealed butter. Grease your articles with this and then wrap them up in paper. PRINTER'S INK. For the production of printing ink fast to washing, take 5 parts of acetic acid and dissolve therein 1 part of lunar caustic. Stand away this solution for one day, and add 20 parts of copal varnish, to which a little lampblack is added. Since the brown shade of the lunar caustic coloring predominates after repeat- ed washings, especially if the wash is exposed to the sun, it is advisable to give the print a greenish ap- pearance by moistening it lightly with a few drops of water in which a little potassium iodide has been dissolved. This ink should be used as fresh as possi- ble, and the lunar caustic dissolved in acetic acid and the copal varnish solution should, therefore, each be 140 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. kept in a closed flask, from which the quantity neces- sary for the print is taken each time in the said pro- portion. PRODUCTION OP DAMASK IN RELIEF UPON GUN-BARRELS. To produce damask in relief upon gun-barrels, first close with corks all the openings of the barrel and free it from adhesive grease. Next place it in a box pitched inside and pour over it a mixture of 1 qt. water with 1 oz. hydro-chloric acid. Allow the barrel to remain in this mixture for three or four hours, when it is taken from the box, washed with water, rubbed with tow dipped in tripoli and then thoroughly dried. It is next allowed to heat over a coal fire. This treatment causes the steel portions' to appear in relief, the iron parts having been subject to attack by corrosive solution. PROTECTING IRON FROM RUST. To protect iron from rust, mix fine, pulverized zinc with oil and a dryer. Apply with a common brush. Two applications give a fine steel gray color and per- fect protection. PROTECTING IRON WORK FROM RUSTING. One-half ounce camphor, 1 pound of lard, and black lead enough to color, is said to protect iron work from rusting. PRUSSIATE OF SILVER. Prussiate of silver is prepared by passing cyanogen gas through a cold solution of nitrate of silver. PULVERIZING SOLDER. To pulverize solder or block tin, melt the metal, but do not let it get any hotter than barely to liquefy it; pour it out into an old ticking apron, gather up the corners and rub or knead it brisklj" between the hands, until it is granulated. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 141 PURIFYING CISTERN WATER. To purify water in cisterns and casks when it has become impure and dirty, for each hogshead of water contained in the cistern or cask sprinkle into it a ta- blespoonful of pulverized alum, stirring the water at the same time. The impurities will be precipitated to the bottom in a few hours and the water will be found clean and clear. PURPLE OF CASSIUS. Purple of Cassius is prepared by the dissolution of 30 86-100 grains of tin in boiling aqua regia, the solu- tion being evaporated at a gentle heat until solid. Next comes its dissolution in distilled water, and after the addition of 30 86-100 grains of stannous chloride solution diluted with 10 quarts of water. A solution of chloride of gold from 75-100 grains of gold is then stirred into the fluid. On adding 1 ounce 12 drachms of ammonia the fluid becomes turbid and the fluid easily separates out. PUTTY-STOVE. For a stove putty use Portland cement. It is not quite as permanent, perhaps, as a rust joint, but for inexperienced persons it is very valuable. It is often used in putting iron pipes together and works well. It is safer in green hands than lead, which has to be well caulked and may fail even when well put in, if exposed to extremes of temperature. (2) A stove putty which is very good and cheap can be prepared as follows: To every pound of min- eral brown, add one ounce of soapstone, and mix with boiled oil. QUEEN'S METAL. Queen's Metal is composed of 9-10 parts Zinc, 3 5-10 parts Copper, 7 1-10 parts Antimony, 88 5-10 parts Tin. 142 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. RECOVERY OF GOLD AND SILVER FROM SWEEPINGS, ETC. To recover gold and silver from sweepings and other refuse, dry the latter and heat them in a Hessian cru- cible. The glowed mass is then to be triturated in an enameled kettle with water and treated with an ex- cess of hydro-chloric acid for the dissolution of any calcium carbonate or alkalies that may be present. The portion as yet undissolved will contain ferric oxide, clay, sand, copper, gold and silver. The silver is recovered from it by washing thoroughly with dis- tilled water, followed by boiling in pure nitric acid, which results in the absorption of the silver by the acid. Next brush the residue and from the combined fluids there is a precipitation of silver and chloride of silver by either hydro-chloric acid or common salt, preferably the former. The residue still undissolved should be heated with aqua regia and the precipita- tion of the gold will be caused by the addition of copperas. It may be advisable to treat the undis- solved residue with ammonia for the extraction of the chloride of silver. RECOVERY OF NICKEL FROM OLD SOLUTIONS. To recover nickel from old solutions take ammo- nium-sulphate in warm water, which is to be con- stantly stirred into the old nickel-plating solution. After this has been done for a little while the separa- tion of the granular precipitation of the double sul- phate of nickel will commence. Continue the addi- tion of the ammonium-sulphate until the liquid is colorless. RECOVERY OF TIN FROM SCRAP. To recover tin from tinplate waste or scrap, treat same with dilute chlorine, hotter than chlorine of tin, at the boiling point, so that the latter, directly upon its formation, evaporates, as if it stays in the form of a fluid touching the residues, it effects the formation of chlorine of iron, the reduction of tin taking place. The fumes of chlorine of tin are precipitated by MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 143 steam, or by contact with moist surfaces in the cham- bers of condensation, or their absorption by a me- dium concentrated solution of chlorine of tin takes place. Another way of recovering tin from waste is to bring same into contact with sulphur in a boiling hot solution of sodiurn-.sulphide, which thoroughly frees the iron from tin. This waste, which has been freed from tin, is washed and dried, heated to a weld- ing heat in rolled iron tubs, and is then hammered into rod-iron. Then proceed to the evaporation of solution of sodium-sulphide, which holds the tin and calcine the residue in a reverberatory furnace. After this, reduce the calcine mass to tin at a raised heat by aid of a compound burned lime, charcoal and small coal. REFRACTORY SOLDER FOR ENAMELED WORK. A refractory solder for enameled work is made of 18 parts Silver, 74 parts Gold. REMOVING ACID SPOTS FROM STEEL. The application of rotten stone and oil will gener- ally remove acid spots from steel. It will also re- move rust, and bath brick will give the metal the de- sired polish. This brilliancy of steel may be retained indefinitely if, after final polishing, it be washed in hot suds and rinsed in clear, hot water. REMOVING GREASE FROM FILE TEETH. To remove oil or grease from the teeth of a new file, rub chalk or charcoal on the teeth, and clean with a file card. Repeat the operation until the oil or grease is absorbed and removed. REMOVING MINERAL OIL OR WAX SPOTS. For removing mineral oil or wax spots, which are very hard to eradicate, especially when they have penetrated deeply into the fibre, owing to ironing of the said bodies, aniline is recommended. This rem- 144 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. edy is used in the following mixture: Aniline, 1 part; soap, 1 part; water, 19 parts. REMOVING OLD PUTTY. Any one who has tried to remove old, dry putty from a window will agree that it is far from being a pleasant job. An easy way to accomplish it is to pass a hot iron, as a soldering iron, over the putty, which will soften it so it may be readily removed with a knife or chisel. REMOVING RUST FROM CAST-IRON. To remove rust from cast-iron, use the following: To 1 part sulphuric acid add 10 parts water, into which dip the casting. When it is withdrawn it should be at once dipped into hot lime water, and held there untU it becomes so heated that it will dry immediately when taken out. Then rub with dry bran or sawdust, and a clean surface is the result. REMOVING RUST FROM KNIVES. To remove rust from knives cover them with sweet oil, well rubbed on, and after two days take a lump of fresh lime and rub till the rust disappears. REMOVING RUST FROM NICKEL-PLATE. To remove rust stains" from nickel-plate grease the rust stains with oil, and after a few days rub thor- oughly with a cloth moistened with ammonia. If any spots still remain, remove them with dilute hydro- chloric acid and polish with tripoli. REMOVING RUST FROM POLISHED STEEL. To remove rust from polished steel articles, soak the rusty places for a few days with oil and then scour with emery or tripoli and oil, using a stick of hard wood. Wipe off the oil and all other impurities; rub the stains once more with emery and wine vine- gar, and finally polish with fine bloodstone and leather. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 145 REMOVING RUST FROM STEEL. Cover the steel thoroughly with sweet oil and let it remain there for about three days. Then take some unslaked lime, finely powdered, and rub with it until all rust disappears. REMOVING RUST FROM STEEL TOOLS. Rust may often be removed from steel tools by im- mersing them in kerosene oil for a few days. This loosens the rusit so that it may rub off. Where the rust is not very deep-seated emery paper will do, but if of long standing the tools must be refinished. REMOVING RUSTY BOLTS. To remove bolts that are rusted without breaking them, the most effective remedy known is the lib- eral application of petroleum. Care must be taken that the rusted parts are reached by it, and some time must be allowed to give it a chance to soften the layer of rust, before any attempts are made to remove the bolt. If, before the bolt has been driven, it could be dipped into a mixture of graphite grease, or graph- ite oil, it would never rust. Graphite prepared in this way, with grease or oil, absolutely prevents rust. REMOVING STAINS FROM IVORY. To remove stains from ivory, immerse the pieces in benzine and go over them with a brush. REMOVING TARNISH FROM GOLD AFTER HARD SOLDERING. The gold is first protected by a coat of yellow ochre paint and ground up with water to which a small quantity of borax has been added. After the solder- ing, put same in a pickle composed of 1 part sulphuric acid diluted with 6 parts of water. Should the gold, on emerging from this pickle, look whitish and show too much of the silver alloy, it should be plunged for a moment in a heated mixture of saltpetre and sul- phuric acid, to which no water has been added. It 146 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. should then be washed and polished with rotten stone aid oil. Then comes a second washing and polishing with rouge. REPAIRING LEAKY GUTTERS. To repair leaky gutters while constantly filling with water from melting snow and ice, when you cannot bail the water out fast enough to enable you to solder the broken seams: Make a syphon with a J^-inch rub- ber tube and start it running, and in a few minutes the gutter will be clear of water so the work can be done. REPAIRING VALLEYS. To repair on old valley, cut off all but iy 2 inches of k and turn up the remaining part. Turn up the new valley 2 inches, turn over the 1^ inch part, mallet down and solder. If too rusty for that, turn the old and new up l 1 ^ inches and 1^4 inches respectively, and double seam. REPAIRING WRINGERS. File shaft bright and rough; warm it; also warm the roll, and when warm enough plug up one end and fill with rubber cement. Next apply cement to the shaft with a brush, empty the roll and adjust it to the shaft. The shaft being warm the cement will adhere to it; the roll being warm becomes soft and elastic. REPAIRING WRINGER ROLLS. First file the shaft bright, apply a coat of varnish and let it harden, then apply another coat, and, while green, wind with jute twine. Apply two or three coats of thick rubber cement, fasten shaft upright in vise, warm roll to soften it, then give shaft a coat of thin cement, and swab out the roll with the same and slide quickly down to place, and let stand twen- ty-four hours before using. This will make a job that will stick. REPLACING BOILER BOTTOMS. When a boiler is to be "cut down," it must be evi- MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 147 dent that the first step is to remove the old bottom. The edge can be knocked back and the outer edge re- moved by cutting off the outer edge of the burr, so that by heating the remainder of the double-seam it can be taken off with a pair of pliers. After this a burr can be turned on the bottom again; of course, it cannot be double-seamed again, but must be slipped on. ROBIERRES' METAL. Robierres' metal is a copper-zinc alloy composed of 66 parts Copper, 34 parts Zinc. ROSEINE. Roseine is an alloy composed of 40 parts nickel, 10 parts silver, 30 parts aluminum, and 20 parts tin, for jewelers' work. ROSE'S METAL. Rose's metal is composed of tin (1 part), lead (1 part), bismuth (2 parts). ROSTHORNS' STERRO-METAL. Rosthorns' sterro-metal is a copper-zinc alloy com- posed of 55 33-100 parts Copper, 41 8-10 parts Zinc, 4 67-100 parts Iron. ROUGE FOR POLISHING METALS. .A rouge for polishing metals is obtained as follows: Sulphate of iron is to be heated in an iron vessel over a slow fire and continuously stirred with an iron spatula until it becomes dry and assumes the form of a pale, greenish-yellow powder. Crush this pow- der in a mortar and sift same. Then calcine it in a new crucible and give it an exposure to the fire of a smelting stove, as long as it continues fuming. As soon as vapors cease arising from it 'the contents of the crucible may be left to cool and then they will look like the rouge employed in the polishing. The 148 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. color of the resultant rouge may range from pale red to brown-red, or may be blue and violet. These va- rieties, however, are caused merely by the different degrees of heat employed, and it may be laid down as an axiom that the higher the temperature during the process of manufacture, the darker the color of the powder and the harder it will be. This is also the explanation of the reason why the violet powder is employed for steel, and the pale red powder is only used for silver and gold. Questions of color aside, it is vitally essential that the rouge be well bruised and washed in water before its employment. To do this you take three glasses and fill one of them with clear water, in which a little rouge is mixed by stirring it a minute or two with a little piece of wood. After the rouge has been allowed to settle to the bottom of the glass (the time being about % minute) the remainder of the liquid is decanted into the second glass, but every particle of the deposit is to be left in the first one. This identical process is followed for the second and third glasses, but there is- this difference: The powder in the second glass is allowed to settle fully two minutes, while the powder in the third glass is left for two or three hours, which is the time required for the assumption by the water of its natural clear- ness. The sediment in the first glass is of no value'; that in the second, of medium quality, while that in the third is very good and can be very advantageously employed after it has been slowly dried. In some cases this rouge may be mixed with grease, and as a general rule found quite advantageous to wet it with spirits of wiue and burn it in a clean iron vessel. ROUGHENING SHEET-BRASS. To make sheet-brass rough so you can paint on same: with oil paint, place it for twelve hours in a pickle consisting of 8 parts water, 1 part concen- trated hydro-chlorate acid and 8 parts concentrated sulphuric acid. It is next to be rinsed off with water. If it is desired to hasten the moire-like appearance given by this process, a compound of hydro-chloric MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 140 acid and potassium bicarbonate may be used and also a galvanic baittery. RUSTED SCREWS LOOSENING. To loosen rusted screws, apply heat at the head of the screw and take a small bar of iron, flat at the end, redden it in the fire and apply for two or three min- utes to the head of the rusty screw. As soon as the screw is heated, this will make it as easy to take it out with a screwdriver as if it had only recently been inserted. RUST FREEING POLISHED STEEL ARTICLES FROM. To remove rust from polished steel articles the spots affected should be soaked for several days with oil, and then scoured with tripoli and oil, or with emery, a piece of hard wood being used for this purpose. The oil and all other impurities are then to be wiped off. The stains are to to be rubbed a second time with emery and wine vinegar and then polished with fine bloodstone and leather. RUST INGRAINED REMOVAL OF IRON FROM. To thoroughly clean iron from rust, first immerse it in deeply saturated solution of chloride of tin. The length of said bath should be dependent on the thick- ness of the film of rust. As a general rule, however, from twelve to twenty-four hours will be amply suffi- cient. Care should be taken that this solution of the chloride of tin should not contain too heavy an assid- uous excess, otherwise the iron itself will be attacked. After the removal of the articles from the bath they should first be washed in water followed by a second washing with ammonia, and then dried as rapidly as possible. Articles thus treated primarily assume the appearance of dead silver, but regain their natural appearance by simply polishing. RUSTING-TO PREVENT METALS FROM. A good compound to prevent metals from rusting is 150 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. made by melting 1 ounce of resin in a gill of linseed oil and mixing it with 2 quarts of kerosene oil while warm. RUSTING TO PREVENT STEEL FROM. To prevent steel from rusting, brush it with a solu- tion of paraffine and benzine. RUST-TO EXTRACT FROM NICKEL-PLATED ARTICLES. To free nickel-plated articles from rust, grease the rust stain, and a few days thereafter rub them thor- oughly with a cloth wet with ammonia. The dissolu- tion of the rust is effected by the ammonia without harm to the plating. If this method does not work satisfactorily, the stains may be touched with diluted hydro-chloric acid and vigorously rubbed. They should then be washed, and on becoming dry polish with tripoli or some similar polishing material. RUST-TO EXTRACT FROM STEEL. To extract rust from steel, plunge the article to be cleaned in a strong solution of cyanide of potassium consisting of % ounce in a wineglass of water, for a few minutes, and then take it out and clean with a small brush, such as a toothbrush, dipped into a com- position of castile soap, cyanide of potassium, whiting and water made into a paste of about the thickness of ordinary cream. SCHWEINFURT GREEN. Schweinfurt green is made by boiling a mixture of 10 6-10 parts Acetic Acid, 31 26-100 parts Cupric Oxide, 58 65-100 parts Arsenious Acid. It is very poisonous. SCOURING CAST-IRON, ZINC OR BRASS. To scour cast-iron, zinc or brass surfaces with great economy of labor, time and matei'ial, by using either MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 151 glycerine, stearine, naphtha, lime or creosote mixed with diluted sulphuric acid. SCRATCH-BRUSHING. To brighten articles in relief, scratch-brushes are used oftener than store or steel burnishers. A com- mon scratch-brush is constructed of a large number of hardened brass wires selected from a coil of large diameter, so tha.t there will be little tendency of the wires, when in place, toward curvature. For the manufacture of a good scratch-brush select a coil of brass wire of the right fineness and bind tightly with strong twine of about 2-3 the desired length of the brush, say 6 or 7 inches. Cut the bundle of wire close to the cord at one end, and about 2 inches from the other, with a chisel. The close cut end is to be dipped into a neutral solution of chloride of zinc and plunged into molten tin, which solders all the wires and guards against their separation. This, too, Is preferably fixed by means of another string to a thin wooden handle projecting above -the soldered end. SCREWS TO PREVENT FROM RUSTING. To prevent screws from rusting in machines and other metal work subject to exposure to moist air or heat, dip them before use in a thin paste consisting of oil of graphite. SEPARATION OF GOLD FROM GILDED ARTICLES. To separate gold from gilded metallic articles, dip them in a concentrated solution of sal-ammoniac in vinegar which has been heated to a dark red heat. Then immerse them in dilute sulphuric acid, which will cause the gold to separate in thin scales. If it is desired to obtain the gold in a coherent form, fuse the scales with saltpeter and borax. SEPARATION OF LEAD FROM ZINC. Yon will have great difficulty in separating lead from zinc. If you have the necessary appliances for 152 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. heating the mass sufficiently the zinc will partially evaporate and leave the lead on being treated. If the whole is granulated the zinc could be dissolved by acids. Zinc being of lighter specific gravity than lead it will float on the latter when properly heated, and to a certain extent can be skimmed off. You will find all these processes troublesome, and in the end not en- tirely satisfactory. SEPARATION OF ZINC FROM LEAD. To separate zinc from lead, melt the alloy and the heavier lead will collect in the lower part of the crucible with the lighter zinc from above. The latter can then be easily poured off. SEPIA BROWN FOR TIN. In order to give tin a sepia-bronze appearance, brush the article with the following solution, viz., 1 part of platinum chloride in 10 parts of water. The coating should be allowed to dry, then rinsed in water, again allowed to dry and then brushed with a soft brush until the requisite luster makes its appearance. SHARPENING FILES. To sharpen files, a metal sheet covered with a thin layer of charcoal is fastened upon the file, protecting the edges. This combination is laid into a solution of six parts of nitric acid and three parts of sulphuric- acid in a hundred parts of water. The acid eats away all the inner parts of the file, leaving the protected edges unchanged, which are then sharpened for use. SILVER CARBONATE. Silver carbonate is a precipitation formed by bring- ing together solutions of nitrate of silver and potash. SILVER HORN. Horn silver is obtained by the addition of hydro- chloric acid to a solution of nitrate of silver. MANUAL OP RECEIPTS. 153 SILVERING BRONZE. To give a silver color to bronze proceed to the disso- lution, in a vessel that is well glazed, of V/2 drachms Tartar Emetic. iy 2 ounces Pulverized Cream of Tartar, in 1 quart Hot Water, and add to this solution 1 ounce Pulverized Antimony, 1% ounces Hydro-chloric Acid. The articles to be coated are immersed in this solution, which is to be heated to the boiling point and allowed to boil for from 15 to 30 minutes; at the end of this time they will be given a beautiful, lustrous coating. SILVERING CAST IRON. A bath prepared by dissolving sy a drachms nitrate of silver in 7 ounces of water and adding 7 drachms of cyanide of potassium may be used for this purpose. This solution is to be poured into 21 ounces of water, wherein 3y 2 drachms of common salt have been pre- viously dissolved. The cat-iron intended to be sil- vered by the solution should, after having been cleaned, be placed for a few minutes in a bath of di- lute nitric acid just previous to being placed in the silvering fluid. SILVERING CAST ZINC. The dark colors in silvered cast zinc articles are ob- tained by coating same with a solution of liver of sulphur, and also by rubbing with graphite. SILVERING IRON. To silver iron, first cover the iron with mercury, and silver by the galvanic process. By heating 300 degrees C., the mercury evaporates and the silver layer is fixed. Ironware is first heated with diluted hydrochloric acid, and then dipped in a solution of nitrate of mercury, being at the same time in commu- nication with the zinc pole of an electric battery, a 154 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. piece of gas carbon or platinum being used as an anode for the other pole. The metal is soon covered with a layer of quicksilver: is then taken out and well washed and silvered in a, silver solution. To save silver, the ware can first be covered with a layer of tin; one part of cream of tartar is dissolved in eight parts of boiling water, and one or more tin anodes are joined with the carbon pole of a Bunsen element. The zinc pole communicates with a well-cleaned piece of copper, and the battery is made to act till enough tin is deposited on the copper, when this is taken out and the ironware put in its place. The ware thus covered with tin chemically pure and silvered is much cheaper than any other silvered metals. SILVERING MIRRORS. In making mirrors, mercury or quicksilver is poured over tin foil and the glass (absolutely clean) carefully slid upon it so as to exclude the air, when weights are placed upon it and allowed to remain several hours. The mercury and tin foil combine and adhere to the glass. (2) The glass is first silvered by means of tartaric acid and ammoniacal nitrate of silver, and then ex- posed to the action of a weak solution of double cyanide of mercury and potassium. When the mer- curial solution has spread uniformly over the surface, fine zinc dust is powdered over it, which promptly reduces the quicksilver, and permits it to form a white and brilliant amalgam, adhering strongly to the glass, and which is free from the yellowish tint of ordinary silvered glass, and not easily affected by sulphurous emanations. SILVERING LIGHT-TEST FOR. To determine whether silvering on an article is light or heavy, clean same with either ether or alcohol and apply to it a drop of 1 5-10 per cent, solution of bi- sulphate of soda. Allow the drop to act for ten minutes and rinse it off with water. If the article is deeply silvered a full round steel-gray spot is pro- MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 155 duced. Other white metals, barring amalgamated copper, do not show this, but, instead, a ring at the edge of the drop. SILVERING SOLUTION NON-POISONOUS. Take nitrate silver 2 drachms, distilled water 4^ ounces. Dissolve, and add sal-ammoniac, hyposul- phite soda and precipitated chalk each 4 drachms. Mix. All surfaces to be plated must be thoroughly cleansed and polished before applying the solution. SILVER INK. A silver ink may be made by rubbing up silver bronze with honey and water. SILVER LIQUID TEST FOR. To determine whether an article is silver or sil- vered apply the following test: viz., a fluid consisting of 16 parts chromic acid and 32 parts of distilled water. The surface of the article to be tested is to be filed, and the filed place put on the touch-stone and the test water applied. If genuine silver, the touch- stone becomes blood red. The deeper the coloration, the finer the quality of the silver. If the article be not genuine silver, but silvered, German silver, tin compositions, etc., the touch is not decomposed by the test water, but cast out in its original color, or, per- haps, in extreme cases, wifh a dull gray tint. SILVEROID. \ This alloy is very white and fine-grained, and has great tenacity. It is used in place of brass or gun metal where a superior polish is required and is com- posed of copper and nickel, to which, according to the different purposes for which it is desired, zinc, lead and tin are added. SILVER SULPHATE. Silver sulphate is made by the action of hot, con- centrated sulphuric acid on silver. 156 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. SILVER SULPHIDE. Silver sulphide is made by the fusion of silver with sulphur. SIMILOR. Similor is a copper-zinc alloy composed of 89 44-100 parts Copper, 9 93-100 parts Zinc, 62-100 parts Tin. SOAP FOR METAL WORK. A soap for metal work is as follows: The basis is cocoanut oil. Its ingredients are cocoanut oil, 2.5 kilos; chalk, 180 grins.; and alum, cream of tartar and white lead, of each 87.5 grms. The oil is melted in an iron vessel containing a little water, and the other ingredients are added in the order named, while con- stantly stirring the mixture. The mixture is then decanted into molds, wherein it solidifies. In use it is made into a paste with water and applied either by cot/ton waste or a rag. It is said this preparation never spoils in keeping. SOFTENING CAST-IRON. To soften cast-iron, steep in 1 part of aqua fortis to 4 parts of water, and let it remain in twenty-four hours. SOFTENING RUBBER. To soften rubber: If the rubber is unvulcanized, naphtha, bisulphide of carbon, and a variety of solv- ents may be employed, or slight heating will make a soft dough of it. If the rubber be vulcanized soft (like the rubber parts of boots and shoes), it cannot be softened without injury to it. Animal oils will do the softening in this case, but destroy the rubber in- stantly. If the rubber be hard (like penholders, but- tons, etc.), it may be softened by heat and its shape changed by pressing. Rubber may be melted, but in MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 157 every case it is ruined by such treatment, the result being a tar-like fluid that never again regains its original condition. SOFTENING SOLDERING COPPERS. To soften soldering coppers that have been hard- ened by use, heat the soldering coppers red-hot or to a cherry heat, then plunge them into cold water. SOFTENING STEEL. For softening steel so that it can be engraved and otherwise worked similarly to copper, pulverize beef bones and mix them with equal parts of calves' hair and loam and stir the mixture into a thick paste with water. A coat of this is applied 'to the steel and placed in a crucible. This is covered with another; the two are fastened with wire together, and the joint is closed hermetically with clay. The crucible is then placed in the fire and heated slowly. When through heating, it is cooled by being placed in the ashes. SOLDER. A soft alloy, which adheres so firmly to metallic, glass and porcelain surfaces that it can be used as solder, and which is invaluable when the articles to be soldered are of such a nature that they cannot bear a high degree of temperature, consists of finely pulverized copper dust, which is obtained by shaking a solution of the sulphate of copper with granulated zinc. The temperature of the solution rises consid- erably and the metallic copper is precipitated in the form of a brownish powder; 20, 30 or 3G parts of this copper dust, according to the hardness desired, are placed in a cast-iron or porcelain-lined mortar and well mixed with some sulphuric acid having a spe- cific gravity of 185. Add to the paste thus formed 70 parts (by weight) of mercury, constantly stirring. When thoroughly mixed the amalgam must be rinsed in warm water to remove the acid, and then set aside to cool. In ten or twelve hours it will be hard enough to scratch tin, When it is to be used it should be 158 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. heated to a temperature of 375 degrees C., when it becomes as soft as wax by kneading in an iron mortar. In this ductile state it can be spread upon any surface, to which, as it cools and hardens, it adheres very tenaciously. (2) A solder for various metals, particularly alumi- num, consists in combining cadmium, zinc and tin mix- ed in substantially the following proportions: Cad- mium, 50 per cent.; zinc, 20 per cent.; tin, the remain- der. The zinc is first melted in any suitable vessel, when the cadmium is added, and then the tin in pieces. The mass must be well heated, stirred, and then poured. SOLDER-ACIDS FOR. To solder galvanized iron, also to solder tin to any iron: Muriatic acid reduced with zinc is used in soldering iron and tin, but it should be wiped off at once. It is used raw or unreduced in soldering gal- vanized iron. SOLDER-ARGENTAN. An Argentan solder, which is readily adapted for use in iron and steel is composed of 12 parts Nickel, 38 parts Copper, 50 parts Zinc. Another Argentan solder which fuses readily is com- posed of 8 parts Nickel, 35 parts Copper, 57 parts Zinc. SOLDER BISMUTH. Bismuth solder is composed of the following: (1) Lead, 4 parts; tin, 4 parts; bismuth. 1 part. (2) Lead, 3 parts; tin, 3 parts; bismuth, 1 part. (3) Lead, 2 parts; tin, 2 parts; bismuth. 1 part. (4) Lead, 2 parts; tin, 1 part; bismuth, 2 parts. (5) Lead, 3 parts; tin, 5 parts; bismuth, 3 parts. (6) Bismuth solder is made of 1 part lead and 1 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 150 part tin and 1 part bismuth, which melts at 284 de- grees Fahrenheit. SOLDER FOR ALUMINUM. For sheet aluminum an iron tin solder may be used with a flux composed of resin, neutral chloride of zinc, and grease. The metal should not be cleaned or scraped unless it is absolutely necessary to do so, in which case alcohol or essence of turpentine should be used for the purpose. For 5 per cent, aluminum bronze tin solder may be employed, but this is not possible with the 10 per cent, alloy, in which case the company recommends a preliminary copper plating. If it is difficult to dip the ends to be plated directly into the solution pieces of blotting paper soaked in a solution of CuSOi may be laid on them and a current passed. The flux mentioned above may be used. Another solder which is recommended is one con- sisting of: Copper, 56 parts; zinc, 46 parts, and tin, 2 parts, applied with borax. In a test plates of alumi- num soldered together, edge to edge, with these solu- bles required a tractive effort of 16^ to 18 tons per square inch to pull them asunder: if the edges over- lapped, 22*4 tons per square inch were required. Pieces of cast aluminum bronze, if placed in sand molds, can be joined together autogenously by run- ning in some of the molten metal. If this operation is properly carried out the joint is indistinguishable from the rest of the casting. Thin cylinders of alum- inum are made in this way by bending the sheets round end to end, and soldering with molten alum- inum. A solder for aluminum consists in combining cad- mium, zinc and tin mixed in substantially the follow- ing proportions: Cadmium, 50 parts; zinc, 20 parts; tin, the remainder. The zinc is first melted in any suitable vessel, when the cadmium is added and then the tin in pieces. The mass must be well heated, stirred, and then poured. The soldering metal can be used for a variety of different metals, but is specially adapted to aluminum. 100 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. SOLDER FOR BRITANNIA METAL. For Britannia metal a solder is used consisting of 1 part lead and 2 parts tin. with resin or chloride of zinc as a flux. The proportion of soft solder is made by first melting the tin in either a porcelain or stone vessel. After it has been melted the lead is added in small proportions and the combination of the two metals is effected by stirring with a stick of wood. The alloy is then to be poured into molds, one of the best shapes being 7% inches long and iy 2 inches high and y s to ^4 inch thick. (2) A solder for Britannia metal is composed as follows: Tin, 8 parts; lead, 4 parts; bismuth, 1 part. Melt at a moderate heat and run into bars. SOLDER FOR ALUMINUM. The composition of solders for aluminum that are generally used is as follows: (1) 80 parts Zinc. 12 parts Aluminum, 8 parts Copper. (2) 88 parts Zinc. 7 parts Aluminum, 5 parts Copper. (3) 94 parts Zinc, 4 parts Aluminum. 2 parts Copper. (4) 90 parts Zinc. 6 parts Aluminum, 4 parts Copper. (5) 85 parts Zinc, 9 parts Aluminum, 6 parts Copper, First prepare an aluminum copper alloy which is to be mixed with the requisite amount of zinc. Melt MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 161 the copper and then gradually introduce into same the aluminum, divided into 3 or 4 portions; make a per- fect mixture by stirring. After the last of the alu- minum has been put in, throw in the zinc and with it some fat or resin, then stir the mass rapidly and directly remove the crucible from the fire and pour the alloy into iron molds, which have been rubbed with benzine or cold tar oil. SOLDER FOR ALUMINUM. A good aluminum solder is made of zinc, aluminum and copper, in the proportion of 90, 6 and 4. SOLDER FOR ALUMINUM BRONZE JEWELRY. A solder for aluminum bronze jewelry is composed of 18 per cent. Copper, 27 6-10 per cent. Silver, 50 4-10 per cent. Gold. (2) A second solution is composed of 6 44-100 per cent. Copper, 4 68-100 per cent. Silver, 88 88-100 per cent. Gold. SOLDER FOR GERMAN SILVER. A solder for German silver is composed of the fol- lowing: German silver, 5 parts; pure zinc, 4 parts. German silver used is made of: Copper, 8 parts; nickel, 2 parts, and zinc, 3.5 parts. SOLDER FOR GLASS. To make a good solder for glass make an alloy of 95 per cent, tin and 5 per cent. zinc. SOLDER FOR GOLD. The best solder for uniting gold is made by melting 66.G parts gold with 16.7 copper, and 16.7 silver. This alloy is a firm and easily working solder, though a very good solder for gold for general purposes is made 162 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. by adding to 100 parts gold, 40 of silver, and 30 of copper. SOLDER FOR HARD BRASS. A solder for hard brass is composed of the follow- ing: Scraps of metal to be soldered, 4 parts; zinc, 1 part. SOLDER FOR IRON AND STEEL INSTRUMENTS. For the finer kinds of iron and steel instruments gold is an excellent solder, as it possesses the power of dissolving iron in a degree of heat far less than is required for melting iron. Therefore, if a small plate of gold is wrapped round the parts to be joined, and then melted with the blow-pipe, it strongly unites the parts together without any injury whatever to the instrument, however delicate. SOLDER FOR NICKEL. The following has proved a good formula for mak- ing solder for nickel: For fine or high-grade nickel. 3 parts yellow brass, 1 part coin silver. For low- grade nickel, 15 parts yellow brass, 5 parts coin silver, 4 parts zinc (pure or plate zinc). Melt the brass and copper with borax for a flux, and add the zinc in small pieces, stir with an iron rod, pour in a slab mold, and cool slowly, when it can be rolled thin for cutting. SOLDER FOR SILVER. Among the common hard silver solders for first soldering are those made in the following proportions: (1) 10 parts Brass, 5 parts Zinc, 1 part Copper, 19 parts Fine Silver. (2) 3 parts Brass, 4 parts Fine Silver. (3) 1 part Brass, 2 parts Pine Silver. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 163 (4) 16 6-10 parts Zinc, 33 4-10 parts Copper, 50 parts Fine Silver. (5) 11 parts Zinc, 25 7-10 parts Copper, 66 3-10 parts Fine Silver. (6) 10 parts Zinc, 23 3-10 parts Copper, 66 7-10 parts Fine Silver. (7) 35 parts Zinc, 157 parts Brass, 9 parts Fine Silver. (8) 18 parts Zinc, 76 parts Brass, 6 parts Fine Silver. (9) 1 part Zinc, 4 parts Brass, 11 parts Fine Silver. (10) 1 part Zinc, 15 parts Brass, 16 parts Fine Silver. A softer hard silver solder for after-soldering is va- riously composed as follows: (1) 2 6-10 parts Copper, 1 part Zinc, 3 5-10 parts Medium-grade Silver. (2) 4 5-10 parts Copper, 3 5-10 parts Zinc, 10 5-10 parts Medium-fine Silver. (3) 3 3-10 parts Tin, 32 3-16 parts Copper, 1G 1-10 parts Zinc, 48 3-10 parts Medium-grade Silver. (4) 1 part Zinc, 7 parts Medium-grade Silver. 164 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. (5) 1 part Zinc, 16 parts Medium-grade Silver. (6) 24 4-10 parts Copper, 10 5-10 parts Zinc, 67 1-10 parts Medium-grade Silver. (7) 3 parts Copper, 1 part Zinc, 2 parts Medium-grade Silver. (8) 2 3-10 parts Copper, 8 2-10 parts Zinc, 68 8-10 parts Medium-grade Silver. SOLDER FOR TIN PANS. For tin pipes a solder is used consisting of 1 part of lead and 2 parts of tin, which has been used for a com- pound of sweet oil and resin as a flux. SOLDER FOR UNITING BRASS TUBE SEAMS. A solder for uniting brass tube seams is composed of the following: Brass, 77.5 parts; zinc, 22.5. The brass is made as follows: Copper, 70 parts; tin, 30 parts. SOLDER FOR ZINC CASTINGS. A good solder for uniting zinc castings, according to Averman, is composed of 2 parts of tin and 1 of zinc. The surfaces to be united are freed from oxide pre- paratory to using the solder, by the application of either muriatic acid or chloi'ide of zinc. SOLDER-GOLD. Gold solder is composed of: Gold, 12 parts; silver, 2 parts; copper, 4 parts. SOLDER HARD, FOR COPPER, BRASS &.ND IRON. (1) Hard solder for copper, brass and iron, is com- posed of the following: Copper, 2 parts; zinc, 1 part. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 1G5 (2) Good tough brass, 5 parts; zinc, 1 part. C5i More fusible than 1 or 2: Copper, 1 part; zinc, 1 part. (4) Good tough plate brass. SOLDER HARD, FOR GOLD. Hard solder for gold is composed of the following: Gold (18 karats, or 750-1000), 18 parts; silver, 10 parts; pure copper, 10 parts. SOLDER HARD, FOR IRON. A hard solder for iron is composed of the following: Copper, 07 parts; zinc, 33 parts. SOLDER-HARD, FOR PURE COPPER OR ORDI- NARY BRASS, A hard solder for pure copper or ordinary brass is composed of the following: Copper, 3 parts; zinc, 1 part. SOLDER HARD, FOR SILVER. A hard solder for silver is composed of the follow- ing: Silver, 60 parts; copper, 23 parts; zinc, 10 parts. SOLDER HARD, FOR SMALL AND THIN PIECES. A hard solder for small and thin pieces is composed of the following: Copper, 86.5 parts; zinc, 4.5 parts. SOLDERING ALUMINUM BRONZE. For soldering aluminum bronze with common soft solder, first thoroughly clean the pieces of bronze from dirt and grease and then put them in a strong solu- tion of sulplate of copper and a rod of soft iron touch- ing the parts to be joined is to be put in the bath. Shortly a copper-like surface will appear on the metal. The pieces of aluminum bronze are then to be re- moved from the bath, rinsed, cleaned and the sur- faces brightened. The surfaces can next be tinged by the use of a fluid made by the dissolution of zinc in hydro-chloric acid. 166 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. HULOT'S SOLDER FOR ALUMINUM BRONZE. Hulot's solder for aluminum bronze is made by compounding solder made of 50 per cent, tin with 12^ per cent., 20 per cent, or 50 per cent, of zinc amalgam. SOLDERING ALUMINUM WITH A BLOW-PIPE. To solder aluminum with a blow-pipe, use a com- pound consisting of 10 parts Copper, 20 parts Aluminum, 60 parts Tin, 10 parts- Silver, 30 parts Zinc. SOLDERING ALUMINUM WITH A SOLDERING- IRON. To solder aluminum with a soldering-iron use a flux consisting of 97 parts Tin, 3 parts Bismuth, or 95 parts Tin, 5 parts Bismuth. The flux to be employed can be either stearin, vase- line or parafflne. Care should be taken that the ar- ticles are thoroughly cleaned before they are soldered, and they should be heated just sufficiently to make the adherence of the solder certain. SOLDERING-AUTOGENOUS. Autogenous soldering is accomplished by the fusion of the edges of the two metallic articles without the employment of another metallic alloy as a band of union. This is done by the direction of a jet of burn- ing hydro-gas from a little movable beak, upon the two edges or surfaces which it is desired to solder together. There is less liability of metals thus joined cracking asunder at the line of union from strain, temperature, etc., than when the ordinary solder pro- cess is used. This system of soldering is quite ad- MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 167 vantageous in chemical establishments for joining the edges of sheet-zinc for concentrated pans and sul- phuric acid chambers, as the speedy corrosion of soldering containing tin is inevitable. SOLDERING BRASS TO CAST-IRON. When it is necessary to solder brass to cast-iron, the part of the iron to be soldered should be polished on an emery wheel until it becomes clean and bright. It should then be dipped in potash water, after which it is filtered for a moment in clean water and washed rapidly with ordinary undiluted hydro-chloric acid. It is then gone over with powdered resin and a solder made of 50 per cent, lead and 50 per cent. tin. This step must be taken before the surface drys. (2) Another method is to file the surface clean, wash same and wipe it with a flux made by the dis- solution of sheet-zinc in hydro-chloric acid until the latter is surcharged. That is, when it becomes a sat- urated solution and has been diluted with its own quantity of water. Then powdered sal-ammoniac is to be sprinkled on it and the mass is to be heated on a charcoal fire until the sal-ammoniac commences to smoke. It is then to be dipped in melted tin and on its removal the surplus tin is to be knocked off. SOLDERING BRIGHT COPPER. When it is desired to solder bright copper and to have the solder the same color as the copper surface, it may be done this way: Moisten the solder with a saturated solution of vitriol of copper and then, touch- ing the solder with an iron or steel wire, a thin skin of copper is precipitated, which can be thickened by repeating the process several times. To make the solder brass-colored, if it is desired to gild the soldered spot, it is first coated with copper in the manner indicated above, and then with gum or isinglass and powdered with bronze powder. The surface thus obtained may, after drying, be brightly polished. 108 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. iSOLDERING CAST-IRON ARTICLES. To solder together cast-iron articles, first clean same and then brush with a scratch-brush until they are covered with a dry coat of brass, imparted by said brush. The surface thus covered with brass is then tinned just as brass itself is tinned and the parts are soldered as customary. SOLDERING ENAMELED WORK. A fusible solder for enameled work is made from 9 parts Silver, 3 parts Copper, 32 parts Gold (of 750 degrees fineness). SOLDERING FAT. To make soldering fat, there should be melted in a pot over a hard coal fire 1 Ib. tallow and 1 Ib. olive oil, into which is stirred 8 ounces of pulverized colophony and the mass allowed to boil. After the mixture is cooled, add, with constant stirring, ^ pint of water which has been saturated with pulverized ammonia. SOLDERING FLUID. A soft soldering fluid that will not rust tools is found in oleic acid (crude). (2) For soldering fluid take one drachm each of powdered copperas, borax, and prussiate of potash; % ounce of powdered sal-ammoniac; 3% ounces fluid muriatic acid; let the mixture cut all the zinc it will and then dilute with 1 pint of water. (3) For soldering fluid: Add granulated zinc or zinc scraps to two fluid ounces of muriatic acid until hy- drogen ceases to be given off; add one teaspoonful of ammonium chloride; shake well and add 2 fluid ounces of water. SOLDERING GRAY CAST-IRON. To solder gray cast-iron, first dip the castings in al- cohol, after which sprinkle muriate of ammonia over the surface to be soldered. Then hold the castings MANUAL OP RECEIPTS. 1G9 over a charcoal fire till the sal-ammoniac begins to smoke; then dip it into melted tin. This prepares the castings for soldering, which is done in the usual way. SOLDERING GOLD. Some of the common soldering for gold is composed of the following ingredients: 1 part Copper, 9 parts Gold, 2 parts Silver. (This solder is to be used for gold of fineness 750 for hard soldering.) 3 parts Copper, 7 parts Silver, 12 parts Gold. (This solder is to be used for soft soldering for gold of fineness 750). (1) 1 part Copper, 2 parts- Copper, 3 parts Gold. (2) 5-10 parts Copper, 5-10 parts Silver, 2 parts Gold. (These solders are to be used for gold of fineness 583). (1) 1 part Copper, 2 parts Silver, 1 part Gold. (2) 2 parts Silver, 1 part Gold. (3) 2 parts Copper, 1 part Gold. (These solders are for gold for less fineness than 583). A solder for gold that is readily fusible consists of 5 1-100 parts Zinc, r>4 74-100 parts Silver, 28 17-100 parts Copper, 11 94-100 parts Gold. - 170 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. SOLDERING LIQUID. A soldering liquid is prepared by the dissolution of small pieces of zinc in pure hydro-chloric acid until effervescence stops. After a wait of a day or two the undissolved zinc is to be taken out and the solution filtered, compounded with 1-3 its volume of spirits of sal-ammoniac, and then diluted with rain water. If this soldering liquid be used there is no rust caused on iron or steeL (2) Another soldering liquid is made by the dissolu- tion of 1 part glycerine and 1 part of lactic acid in 8 parts of water. SOLDERING PASTE. A soldering paste is made by a mixture of chloride of tin with starch paste. SOLDERING RUSSIA IRON. To solder Russia iron, heat the piece of iron with a well-heated soldering iron for about half an inch. It don't want to be made too hot, but draw the iron over same, say for 8 or 10 inches, and then, while it is hot apply raw muriatic acid, rubbing the soldering over same; then with a wet cloth wipe clean and apply cut acid and solder, rubbing the hot iron over same and while hot wipe off with the wet cloth, and it should be as bright as tin and as easy to solder. SOLDERING SAWS. To solder saws the tools required are a blow-pipe, a piece of charcoal, some borax and spelter. The ends of the saw are filed smooth, so that one side will lap over the other and the sides opposite each other are to be fitted together and the bundle bound with iron and wire for keeping it in place. The lap is then dampened with borax which has been dissolved in water, and the saw is placed on the charcoal. The broken parts are to be put near the gas-jet and the parts previously wet with the spelter are to be sprinkled and the flame of the gas is to be blown until MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 171 the spelter runs. It should be cold before it is re- moved. When quite cold it should be filed quite flat with the other part of the saw. SOLDERING WITHOUT A SOLDERING-IRON. For soldering without a soldering-iron, use a fine solder composed of 1 part Tin, 2 parts Bismuth, 2 parts Lead. Next solder a piece with solder composed of 4 parts Tin, 4 parts Lead, 1 part Bismuth. The best soldering liquid to employ is made of equal parts of water and hydro-chloric acid which has been saturated with zinc. SOLDER PLATINUM. Platinum crucibles and wires may be soldered by means of fine gold wire in the oxyhydrogen jet. It can also be soldered over a blow-pipe. The solder used is auric chloride (Au Cl), which on heating de- composes first into aurous chloride, and at a higher temperature into chloride and gold. The salt melts at about 200 degrees Cent., and in the blow-pipe the gold runs as a solder. Care should be taken to draw the platinum from the flame when the gold is seen to run, in case it spreads too far and leaves the joint weak. The latter must not afterwards be exposed to a higher temperature than that at which the soldering was effected. In the case of soldered-up longish holes, a spongy platinum may be mixed with the auric acid. Hammering the soldered joint while hot serves to finish off the joint. Wires and strips of platinum can in this way be joined by putting the chloride crystals on each clean surface and gently heating 172 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. them till nearly "black, then binding the surfaces to- gether and further heating them in the blow-pipe fire. SOLDER PEWTERERS'. The coarse solder used by pewterers is formed of tin, 3 parts; lead. 4; and bismuth, 2; the fine, of tin, 2; lead, 1; bismuth, 1. SOLDER PLUMBERS' COARSE. Plumbers' coarse solder is composed of the follow- ing: Tin, 1 part; lead, 3 parts. SOLDER-PLUMBERS' FINE. Plumbers' fine solder is composed of the following: Tin, 1 part; lead, 2 parts. SOLDER PLUMBERS' SEALED. Plumbers' sealed solder is composed of the follow- ing: Tin, 1 part; lead, 2 parts. SOLDER-SILVER. To make good, hard silver solder, take 3 parts, ster- ling silver and 1 part brass wire. Melt in a crucible. The best flux for use with silver solder is borax. Silver solder may be melted in fire or with the use of a blow-pipe. SOLDER SILVER, FOR JEWELERS. Silver solder for jewelers is composed of the follow- ing: Silver, 19 parts; copper, 1 part; brass, 1 part. SOLDER SILVER, FOR PLATING. Silver solder for plating is composed of: Silver, 2 parts; copper, 1 part; brass, 1 part. SOLDER SILVER, FOR SILVER, BRASS AND IRON. Silver solder for silver, brass and iron is composed of the following: Silver, 1 part; brass, 1 part. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 173 SOLDER-SILVER, FOR STEEL JOINTS. Silver solder for steel joints is composed of the fol- lowing: Silver, 19 parts; copper, 1 part; brass, 1 part. (2) More fusible: Silver, 5 parts; brass, 5 parts; zinc, 5 parts. SOLDER SOFT. The commonest soft solder used consists of 1 part of lead and 2 parts of tin. The greater the proportion of lead the cheaper will be the solder. The most fusible solder not containing bismuth is made of 1 part of lead and l 1 /^ parts of tin. For ordinary plumb- ing-work, solders are used composed of (1) 3 1 parts part Lead, Tin. (2) 2 1 parts part Lead, Tin. (3) 1 1 part part -Lead, Tin. (4) 1 11/2 part parts Lead ; Tin. (5) 1 2 part parts Lead, Tin. (2) To prepare a soft solder which can be used with- out acid or a soldering iron, soldering articles of tin- ware by simply holding over a candle. It is made by melting and mixing 40 parts of tin, 20 parts of lead, 40 parts bismuth by weight, and run into small bars by pouring from a perforated ladle while drawing the ladle across a flat piece of iron, stone or board. (3) Is composed of 6 parts of lead, 1 part of cad- mium, 7 parts of bismuth. Another soft solder is com- posed of 2 part of lead, 4 parts of tin, and 2 parts of cadmium. 174 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. SOLDER-SOFT, FOR ALUMINUM BRONZE. A soft solder for aluminum bronze is composed of 57 1-10 per cent. Silver. 14 3-10 per cent. Copper. 14 3-10 per cent. Gold, 14 3-10 per cent. Brass. The brass should be made of 70 per cent. Copper, 30 per cent. Tin. SOLDER-SPELTER. Spelter solder is made from equal parts of zinc and copper. When used for brazing the parts should be heated red-hot in a crucible with a flux of borax and charcoal dust, and the addition of the zinc should be made. (2) Solder of hard spelter (from spelter, the com- mercial name given to plates of manufactured zinc) is used for joining copper, and is prepared from cop- per (16 parts) and zinc (12 parts). For soldering brass this formula is changed to one of equal parts copper and zinc, forming the solder known as soft spelter. SOLDER TINNERS'. Tinners' solder is composed of the following: Tin, iy 2 parts; lead, 1 part. SOLDER-TINNERS' FINE. Tinners' fine solder is composed of the following: Tin, 2 parts; lead, 1 part. SOLDER WIRE. Wire solder, such as is sold to housewives to be used by melting it with a candle, is made as follows: Make a small hole in the bottom of any tin vessel, and al- low melted solder to flow through this aperture, while moving the vessel along over an iron surface. Most MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 175 of the stuff sold by peddlers contains bismuth, and is deleterious when used on culinary utensils. SPECULUM METAL. This alloy, commonly used for the manufacture of metallic reflectors, is white in color, and has a hard surface not easily scratched or tarnished. It con- tains from 64 to 69 per cent, of copper and 30 to 35 per cent, of tin. The white color is made more con- spicuous by the addition of small quantities of arsenic and antimony. STAINING WOOD BLACK. Almost any wood can be dyed black by the follow- ing means: Take logwood extract, powder 1 ounce and boil it in 314 pints of water; when t'he extract is dissolved, add 1 drachm potash yellow chromate (not the bichromate), and agitate the whole. The liquid will serve equally well to write with or to stain wood. Its color is a very fine dark purple, which becomes a pure black when applied to the wood. STANNIC SULPHIDE. Stannic sulphide is obtained by passing through a heated tube sulphurated hydrogen and stannic chlo- ride. It can also be made by heating mixtures of corrosive sublimate and stannic 'sulphide. STEAM BOILER INSULATION. To insulate steam boilers, grind with water into a paste of consistency of mortar, asbestos, gypsum, cement and cork waste, applying same with a trowel. STEEL-GRAY COATING. The mixture for steel-gray coating is prepared as follows: Triturate 3 85-100 grains of lamp-black with 3 drops of gold-size oil in a dish to a homogeneous cohering mass and dilute this with 24 drops of oil of 176 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. turpentine. Apply with fine brush in very thin and uniform layers and allow to dry thoroughly. STEEL-GRAY ON BRASS. To obtain steel-gray coloring on brass employ a com- pound of 1 pound Strong Hydro-Chloric Acid, 1 pint of Water, to which the addition is made of 5^4 ounces Pulverized Autimonic Sulphide, 5% ounces Pulverized Iron Filings. (2) Another mixture for this purpose is composed of hydro-chloric acid compounded with arsenious acid. This compound is put in a lead vessel and the objects immersed in it should be brought in touch with the leaden sides of the vessel or should be enwrapped with a strip of lead. STEEL-GRAY ON COPPER. In order to give copper a steel-gray color the ar- ticles are to be cleaned and pickled in a heated solu- tion of chloride of antimony in hydro-chloric acid. By the use of a strong galvanic current a coating with a steel-gray precipitation of arsenic may be given the articles by putting them in a heated arsenic bath. If it is desired to give copper a dark, steel-gray color a good pickle consists of 1 quart of hydro-chloric acid. % quart nitric acid, 1^ ounces iron filings, l 1 /^ ounces arsenious acid. STEEL MADE TO IMITATE GOLD. In order to give a ground steel object the appear- ance of gold or good bronze, the first step is in re- moving all dirt from the same by a bath in benzine, petroleum or turpentine. It is then to be heated and a light gold varnish applied, which on drying is to be coated with the best copal lacquer, MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 177 STERRO-METAL. Sterro-metal is composed of 54 parts Copper, 40 parts Zinc, 6 parts Ferro- manganese. TALMI GOLD. Talmi gold is a copper-zinc alloy composed of 86 4-10 parts Copper, 12 2-10 parts Zinc, 1 1-10 parts Tin, 1 3-10 parts Iron. TARTAR EMETIC. Tartar emetic is made by boiling cream of tartar with tetroxide of antimony until its dissolution. TEMPERING MAGNETS. To temper magnets, use a water-tight vessel, with two soft-iron pole pieces at the bottom. Place under- neath these the poles and electro-magnet. Partially fill the vessel with water, ana deep black color and gloss. The "wax-milk" above referred to may be prepared by boiling 1 part yellow soap and 5 parts Japanese wax in 21 parts of water until the soap dissolves. When cold it has the consistency of a salve, and will keep in a closed vessel for an indefinite time. It can be used for polishing carved wood and for waxing ball-room floors, as it is cheaper than the solution of wax and turpentine, and does not stick or have any disagree- able odor. VARNISH BLACK, FOR ZINC. A black varnish for zinc is made by the dissolution equal parts of blue vitriol and chlorate of potash in 36 times their volume of warm water. The solution is then permitted to cool. Should there be iron in the blue vitriol it is precipitated as a hydrated oxide and its removal can be made by nitration. Next, plunge the zinc castings in this solution for a second or so, when they will become very black. Then rinse them off in water and dry them. This black coating will adhere to the article even before it is completely dried. The solution should be applied a second time should copper-colored spots make their appearance during the operation. If you rub it, a glittering appearance, something like indigo, will be acquired by the coat- ing. This, however, will disappear on the application of a few drops of Linseed Oil Varnish, which is com- posed by boiling together 5 parts of Japanese wax and 1 part of yellow soap in 21 parts of water, until the dissolution of the soap. The zinc, after being treated with this varnish, has a deep black color and gloss. VARNISH COLOR, FOR SHEET METALS. A color varnish for sheet metals is made by powder- ing 7% drachms of acetate of copper in a mortar, spreading this powder in a thin layer upon a plate and allowing it to stand in a lukewarm place. In the course of a day or two the evaporation of most of the acetic acid and water of crystallization will have 190 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. taken place. The residue of light brown powder is then to be -triturated with oil of turpentine, into which there are stirred Sy 2 ounces of high-grade fat copal varnish of a heat of 1.67 degrees Fahrenheit. If the rubbing of the acetate of copper has been thoroughly performed the dissolution of most of it will be evapor- ated after 15 minutes' stirring. Then pour the varnish into a glass bottle, put it in a warm place and shake it often. The little amount of acetate of copper set- tling on the bottom can be used again for other por- tions of varnish. The color of this varnish is a dark green, and it takes 4 to 5 coats to produce a brilliant green luster on sheet metals. If a gold shade is de- sired 2 coats are sufficient. The article to be gilded being heated in a drying chamber or upon metal- plates w r hich have been uniformly heated. The time of heating is the determinent of the resultant shade, which may be either green or yellow, dark yellow, orange or reddish-brown. VARNISH-COPAL. Copal varnish is made as follows: Pale African copal, 7 pounds; fuse; add clarified linseed oil, one- half gallon; boil for 5 minutes. Remove it into the open air, and add boiling oil of turpentine, 3 gallons; mix well; strain it into the cistern and cover it up immediately. This is used to varnish furniture, and by japanners, coachmakers, etc. Dries in 15 minutes, and may be polished as soon as hard. VARNISH FOR COATING WOOD AND IRON. A good varnish for coating wood and iron is made by placing 3 pounds powdered resin in a receptacle, adding to same 2 1 , pints spirits of turpentine, shaking well and allowing same to stand, shaking from time to time, for two days. After the elapse of two days, 5 quarts of boiled linseed oil are to be added, and the whole shaken together. Then decant the -clear por- tion, reducing same with spirits of turpentine, in order to acquire the right consistency. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 191 VARNISH FOR DECORATING TINPLATE. Rub to a fine powder 30 parts of crystallized acetate of copper, and leave it in a thin layer on porcelain for a few days in a moderately warm place, to drive off the water of crystallization and a portion of the acetic acid. Rub the bright brown powder that is left with a small quantity of turpentine, and add it with constant stirring to one hundred parts of fine copal varnish heated to 167 degrees F. If the acetic acid was sufficiently finely powdered, it will dissolve on stirring it about a quarter of an hour. Pour the varnish into a glass vessel and set aside for a few days, with occasional shaking. The varnish is dark green. Four or five applicotions to tinned iron give a fine green, lustrous tint. If heat is applied two coats will give greenish, yellow, dark yellow, orange, or reddish brown tints, according to the temperature. The source of heat may be an oven or an equally heated iron plate. Success depends on the uniform application of the varnish and the heat. VARNISH FOR IRON. A varnish for iron is made by mixing, when warmed in an iron kettle, % pound powdered resin, ~y 2 pound asphalt and 2 pounds tar oil. The mixture must be dissolved and care must be taken to prevent any con- tact of same with the flame. VARNISH FOR IRON PATTERNS. A varnish for iron patterns is made by dropping strong sulphuric acid drop by drop into oil of turpen- tine. This will cause a precipitation in the oil of tur- pentine of a syrupy nature. The acid should be added until the precipitation no longer forms. The liquid is then poured out and the syrup washed, when it is ready for application. The iron to be varnished is to be heated to a luke-warm heat and after the applica- tion of the varnish allowed to dry. 192 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. VARNISH FOR POLISHED EDGES. White lava varnish is used to preserve polished edges from rusting and at the same time not detract from their appearance. Also white varnish may be used; or dissolve as much white resin in one-half pint of turpentine as it will take, and apply with a paint brush. VARNISH FOR MACHINERY. A varnish for machinery and foundry patterns, which dries as soon as put on, gives the patterns a smooth surface, thus insuring an easy slip out of the mold, prevents the patterns from warping, shrinking or swelling, and is quite impervious to moisture, is prepared in the following manner: Thirty pounds of shellac, 10 pounds Manila copal, and 10 pounds of Zanzibar copal are placed in a vessel which is heated externally by steam, and stirred during 4 to 6 hours, after which 150 parts of the finest potato spirit are added, and the whole heated during four hours to 87 degrees C. This liquid is dyed by the addition of orange color, and can then be used for painting the patterns. When used for painting and glazing ma- chinery it consists of 35 pounds of shellac, 5 pounds of Manila copal, 10 pounds Zanzibar copal and 150 pounds of spirit. VARNISH FOR TINPLATE. A receipt for varnishes for tinplate is as follows: Take 30 grams of sub-acetate of copper (copper green) and make into powder, spread quite thin on a porcelain plate and keep in a moderately warm place for some days. After this time, the crystal water and the greater part of the acetic acid will have evapo- rated. The light-brown powder that remains is then ground in a mortar with some turpentine and 100 grams of fine fat copal lac warmed to 167 degrees F., is then added. If the copper oxide has been well pre- pared it will be mostly dissolved after a quarter of an. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 193 hour's stirring. The varuish is then put in a glass and kept in a warm place for some days, keeping oc- casionally stirred. The small quantities of acetate of copper, which are still deposited, are used in the next preparation. The dark green varnish gives a fine glittering color oa tin. but only after the fourth or fifth coating, but two coatings will give the most varied colors after drying in a drying chamber or on warm irou plates. Greenish, yellowish, or dark-yel- low gold colors, then orange, and. finally, reddish- brown shades are obtained, according to the dura- tion of the temperature. The colors are far brighter than those obtained by English gold lac, and keep fast under light. The composition of the gold color depends on the deduction of the dissolved copper oxide into the hydrosilicate of copper, which is soluble in small quantities as gold color in the copal lac. The more deduction is obtained the darker the colors will be. VARNISH GREEN. FOR METALS. Thoroughly dissolve in a strong potash lye a quan- tity of finely pulverized gum sandarac. This solution is to be diluted with water, and then follows its pre- cipitation with a copper salt solution, either acetate or sulphur. Wash and dry the green precipitation, which is then dissolved in oil of turpentine. VARNISH-GREEN TRANSPARENT. A green transparent varnish for metals is made by grinding a quantity of finely-powdered chromate of potash with one-half the quantity of Chinese blue, to which is added a sufficient amount of copal varnish, thinned with turpentine. If the alteration of the tone of the varnish is desired, the amount of the various ingredients used should be changed accordingly. VARNISH-METAL. A good varnish for metals is made by decomposing potash or soda soap with sulphate of zinc. This soap is then purified by water, and after 10 per cent, of tal- 194 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. low has been added the mass is diluted by petroleum, which affects the dissolution of the metal soap. The compound is then filtered until it is bright and clear. VARNISH TO PREVENT RUST IN IRON AND STEEL. Dissolve 1 part white wax in 15 parts benzine, and apply a thin layer with a brush. This forms a perfect covering, and is easily removed when necessary. VERDIGRIS. Verdigris is made from either copper and vinegar, or by putting together sheets of copper with the skins of pressed grapes. WAGNER'S BRITANNIA METAL. Wagner's Britannia metal is composed of 83-100 parts Bismuth, 3 6-10 parts Zinc, 81 1-100 parts Copper, 9 66-100 parts Antimony, 85 64-100 parts Tin. WARNE'S METAL. Warne's metal is composed of 7 parts Nickel, 7 parts Bismuth, 3 parts Cobalt, 10 parts Tin. This metal is white. WASHING BRASS WITH TIN. To wash brass with tin, boil together 6 pounds of cream of tartar, 4 gallons of water, and 8 gallons of grain tin or tin shavings, for half an hour in a porce- lain-lined vessel; put clean brass ware in the boiling liquid for a few minutes, or until properly coated. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 195 WELDING CAST-STEEL. In welding cast-steel it should be kept from the air during the heating and should be heated as quickly as possible. It should not be made too hot or it is liable to either burn or break in pieces while being ham- mered. Coke, not coal, should be used for the fire, as the latter contains sulphur, which would give the surface of the steel a sulphide or iron coating. The following is the flux to use: }i pound Washing Potash, i/i pound Borax, and a small quantity of white glass, powdered. These ingredients being mixed together, and, when cold, powdered. This flux will accomplish the dissolution of oxide formations. Before the steel is placed in the fire apply some to protect the surface of the work from oxide. (2) A welding compound that is excellent for cast- steel is composed of 3 to 5 parts Carbonate of Soda, 15 5-10 to 26 7-10 parts Ferro-cyanide of Potash, 35 parts Common Salt, 7 6-10 parts Resin, 41 5-10 parts Boric Acid. WELDING COMPOUND FOR STEEL TO STEEL. A compound for welding steel to steel is composed of 10 parts Borax, 2 parts Sal-ammoniac, 1 part Flour of Sulphur. Another for the same purpose is composed of 8 parts Calcined Soda, 15 5-10 parts Prussiate of Potash, 35 parts Common Salt, 41 5-10 parts Boric Acid, 19G MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. WELDING COPPER. The ingredients of a mixture for welding copper are 2 parts Boric Acid, 1 part Soda Phosphate. WELDING STEEL TO STEEL. The following compound is useful for welding steel to iron or steel: 35 parts Iron Filings (free from rust). 70 parts Sal-ammoniac, 70 parts Prussiate of Potash, 500 parts Borax. This compound is to be pulverized in a mortar and next turned into a crucible. Water is added until a thick paste is made and the crucible is put over a wood fire and the contents are continuously stirred. The resultant is then cooled, pulverized, and is ready for use. It looks a good deal like pumice-stone, with green and gray streaks. WELDING WROUGHT IRON AND STEEL-COM- POUND FOR. A compound for welding wrought iron and steel, at a red heat, is composed of 7 G-10 parts Colophony, 26 7-10 parts Prussiate of Potash, 35 parts Boric Acid, 30 1-10 parts Common Salt. Another compound is composed of the following mixture: 6 parts Borax. 1 part Prussiate of Potash, % part Resin, 2 parts Sal-ammoniac, MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 197 pulverized and mixed with water. The mixture is then boiled with constant stirring until the formation of a stiff paste. This paste is then hardened over a fire, and, when cold, pulverized and mixed with 1 part wrought iron filings, free from rust. In use the powder should be scattered upon the red-hot pieces and liquefied over the fire. WELDING WROUGHT IRON TO WROUGHT IRON AT A RED HEAT. A compound for welding wrought iron to wrought iron at a red heat is composed of % part Sal-ammoniac, y 2 part Water, 1 part Borax. These ingredients are boiled and stirred until stiff, then they are allowed to harden over a fire. After it is cooled the compound should be pulverized and thor- oughly mixed with 1-3 part of unrusted wrought iron. Dovetail the pieces to be welded and make the place to be welded red-hot, then scatter the powder upon it and liquefy over a fire. A light tap or two with a hammer is ample for joining the pieces together. WHITE METAL. White metal is composed of 42 parts Tin, 40 parts Lead, 2 parts Cupro-manganese, 20 parts Antimony. WHITENING BRASS AND COPPER. The whitening of brass and copper articles can be accomplished by boiling them in a solution of 1 pound grained tin, % pound cream of tartar and 2 quarts water. The dissolution of tin takes place in the cream of tartar, and it is again precipitated on the brass and copper. 198 MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. WHITEWASH THAT WILL STICK AND WASH. For a wash which can be applied to lime walls and afterward become waterproof so as to bear washing. Take 3 parts silicious rock (quartz), 3 parts broken marble and sandstone, also 2 parts of burned porce- lain clay, with 2 parts freshly slacked lime, still waim. In this way a wash is made which forms a silicate if often wetted, and becomes after a time almost like stone. The four constituents mixed together form the ground color to which any pigment that can be used with lime is added. It is applied quite thickly to the wall or other surface, let dry one day. and the next day frequently covered with water, which makes it waterproof. This wash can be cleansed with water without losing any of its color; on the contrary, each time it gets harder, so that it can even be brushed, while its porosity makes it look soft. The wash or calcimine can be used for ordinary purposes as well as for the finest painting. A so-called fresco surface can be prepared with it in the dry way. WRINGER ROLLS. To put on new rolls, wind the shaft, after old roll has been removed, with jute twine. Place one end of the shaft in a vise and cover the shaft with a thin coat of rubber cement, twist the new roll on as quick- ly as possible, and let it stand two or three days be- fore using. WRINGER ROLLS-CLOTHES. For manufacturing rubber rolls for clothes wring- ers, the vulcanized rubber in sheets is rolled tightly around the iron cores. The material being cohesive or adhesive, sticks together. The roller is then put into an iron mold and pressed tightly, so that the Iron core or spindle will be forced to the center. The whole is then put in the steam oven and vulcanized. Rubber cement is used for mending old work. It may be had from rubber dealers. MANUAL OF RECEIPTS. 199 ZINC COVERED IRON PLATES For covering iron plates with zinc, first see that the plates are thoroughly cleaned; then dip them into a bath of chlorides of zinc and ammonium, and finally in a bath of zinc and mercury. ZINC-NICKEL. Zinc-nickel is an alloy composed of 90 parts zinc and 10 parts nickel, used as a pigment. ZINC OXIDE. Zinc oxide is made by burning zinc white. ZINC SULPHATE. Zinc sulphate is made by roasting blende and lixivi- ating the mass with water. INDEX. Acetate of Lead 5 Acid-Proof Cement 32 Acids for Solder 158 Acid Spots Removing from Steel 143 Agate Ware Repairing 5 Aich Metal 5 Alloy Delatot's 72 Alloy for Cold Soldering 5 Alloy for Holes in Castings 6 Alloy for Solder 6 Alloy Lipowitz 7 Alloy Mousset's Silver 7 Alloy of Tin and Copper 7 Alloys Japanese 7 Alloy Wood's 8 Aluminum Brass ' 8 num Bronze Hulot's Solder for 160 num Bronze Jewelry Solder for 161 num Bronze Soft Solder for 174 num Bronze Solder for 165 num Coating 59 Alum Alum Alum Alum Alum Aluminum Coating for Iron and Steel 8 Aluminum Nickel 118 Aluminum Solder for 159, 160 Aluminum Soldering with a Blow Pipe. . ; 166 Aluminum Soldering with a Soldering Iro'n 166 Amalgam Arlington 8 Amalgam Copper Cementing with 51 Amalgam Diamond y Amalgam Hood's 9 Amalgam Johnson & Lund's 9 Amalgam Lawrence's 9 Amalgam Liquid for Silvering Globes 9 Amalgam Towneend's 9 202 INDEX. Amalgam To wnsend's Improved 9 Amalgam Walker's 9 Ammonia Ferrous Sulphate 9 Ancient Bronze 20 Annealing Steel 10 Anti-Attrition Metal Babbitt's 11 Anti-Friotion Composition 10 Antimonoid 10 Antimony Butter of 31 Antimony Coloring on Brass 10 Antimony Polishing 128 Antique Brass 18 Aquarium Cement 33 Argentan Solder 158 Argentic Oxide 1 Armenian Cement 52 Arrington Amalgam 8 Asbestos Cement for 35 Asbestos To Fasten to Iron 77 Asphalt Varnish for Sheet Metals 187 Ashberry Metal > 11 Autogenous Soldering 166 Babbitt's Anti-Attrition Metal I I Bad Smells To Correct 68 Balls for Polishing Silver 129 Band Iron Tinning 180 Barrels, Gun Bronze for 22 Barrels, Gun Production of Damask in Relief on 140 Bath Tinning for Metals 179 Battery 12 Beating Gold 85 Belgian Polishing Powder 12 Bell Metal 13 Bell Metal Japanese 102 Bells, Church Repairing 55 Bending Tin Tubes 13 Biddery Metal 13 Birmingham Britannia Metal 13 Bismuth Nitrate 14 Bismuth Solder 158 Bituminous Cement 33 Black Brilliant for Iron and Steel 20 INDEX. 203 Black Brunswick 30 Blackening Copper 14 Blackening Sheet Iron 14 Black Ground for Japanning 97 Blacking Harness 15 Blacking Sheet Zinc 15 Blacking Stove 15 Black Iron 14 Black Iron Cement for Iron Ovens 33 Black Japan 97 Black Staining Wood 175 Black to Coat Cast Iron 61 Black Varnish for Iron 188 Black Varnish for Iron Work 187 Black Varnish for Steel 188 Black Varnish for Stoves 188 Black Varnish for Tin 188 Black Varnish for Zinc 189 Blast Pipes Cement for 36 Blow Pipe Soldering Aluminum with 166 Blue-Black Coloring for Copper 63 Blue Color for Iron and Steel 16 Blue Japan Grounds 98 Blue Print Process 17 Blue Prints 17 Bluing Iron 18 Bluing Sheet Steel 17 Bluing Steel 18 Bluing Steel or Iron 18 Boiler Bottoms Replacing 146 Boilers, Leaky Cement for 41 Boilers, Steam Cement for 45 Boilers, Steam Insulation of 175 Bolts, Rusty Their Removal 145 Bottle Cork Cement 33 Bottoms, Boiler Replacing 146 Boxes, Tin To Glue Labels on 84 Brass Aluminum 8 Brass and Copper Pipe Parts Cement for 37 Brass and Glass Cementing 36, 48 Brass Antimony Coloring on 10 Brass Antique 18 Brass Articles Bronzing 24 Brass Bristol 18 204 INDEX. Brass Bronzing 26 Brass Cleaning 53 Brass, Dipped Lacquer for 105 Brass Fire-Proof Brown Bronze on 20 Brasses for Side Rods 19 Brass Gold-Colored Surface on. . 86 Brass Gold Stains for 86 Brass Green Bronze for 21! Brass Hard Solder for 165 Brass Lacquer 104 Brass Lustrous Black on 109 Brass Malleable 110 Brass Metal Mountings on Cement for 42 Brass Paste for Cleaning 123 Brass Pickling 126 Brass Pipe Finish 19 Brass, Polished Lacquer for 105 Brass Polish for Pressed Articles of 128 Brass Polishing 130 Brass Polishing Paste for 133 Brass Red 19 Brass, Sheet Roughening 148 Brass Silver Solder for 172 Brass Soldering to Cast Iron 1G7 Brass Steel Gray on 176 Brass Test for 19 Brass To Color 62 Brass To File 79 Brass To Frost 80 Brass To Scour 150 Brass Tube Seams Solder for Uniting 164 Brass Vessels Tinning 180 Brass Violet Coloring for 63 Brass Washing with Tin. . . 194 Brass Whitening 197 Brick Fire 79 Bright Copper Soldering 167 Brightening Tinware 19 Brilliant Black for Iron and Steel 20 Bristol Brass 18 Britannia Metal 20 Britannia Metal Birmingham 13 Britannia Metal German 82 Britannia Metal Karmarsch's 103 INDEX. 205 Britannia Metal Keller's 104 Britannia Metal Malleable 110 Britannia Metal Pewter 125 Britannia Metal Solder for 160 Britannia Metal Wagner's 194 Bronze Aluminum Hulot's Solder for 166 Bronze Aluminum Soft Solder for 174 Bronze Aluminum Solder for 165 Bronze Ancient 20 Bronze Brown Fire-Proof on Copper and Brass 20 Bronze Cheap 21 Bronze Cleaning 56 Bronze Copper 21 Bronze Fixtures Cleaning 56 Bronze for Castings 21 Bronze for Cast Iron 21 Bronze for Gilding 21 Bronze for Gun Barrels 2li Bronze for Medals 2ii Bronze for Small Castings 22 Bronze Gold 22, 85 Bronze, Golden Cleaning 57 Bronze Green for Brass 22 Bronze Green for Tin 23 Bronze Liquid 23 Bronze Metal 23 Bronze Ormolu 23 Bronze Patina on Tin 23 Bronze Peruvian 23 Bronze Phosphor 24 Bronze Polishing 129 Bronze Silvering 153 Bronze Statuary 24 Bronze Sun 24 Bronze To File 79 Bronze Tucker 24 Bronzing Brass Articles 24 Bronzing Cast Iron 25 Bronzing Copper 25 Bronzing Copper and Brass 26 Bronzing Gold, for Iron 85 Bronzing Green 26 Bronzing Iron 27 Bronzing Iron or Steel 27 206 INDEX. Bronzing Medals 28 Bronzing Steel 27 Bronzing Tin 29 Bronzing Zinc : 20 Brown Color for Copper 64 Brown Fire-Proof Bronze on Copper and Brass 20 Browning Copper 2!) Browning Copper Liquid for 30 Browning Metal 30 Brown Sepia, for Tin 132 Brunswick Black 30 Brushing Scratch 155 Burning Tin 178 Burnishing Silver 30 Burnt Cast Steel To Restore 30 Burnt Steel Tools To Restore 31 Butter of Antimony 31 Carbonate-Silver 152 Card and Tin Cement for 36 Carmine Ink 92 Cartridges Polishing 131 Case-Hardening Cast Iron 32 Case-Hardening Compound for Iron 32 Casings Cement for .*. 36 Cassius Purple of 141 Castings Bronze for 21 Castings Cement for Defective Places In 37 Castings, Holes in Alloy for 65 Castings Pickling 127 Castings, Small Bronze for 22 Castings To Enamel 73 Castings, Zinc Solder for 164 Cast Iron Bronze for 21 Cast Iron Bronzing 25 Cast Iron Case-Hardening 32 Cast Iron Chaplets Tinning 180 Cast Iron Coating a Glossy Black 61 Cast Iron Galvanized 81 Cast Iron Removing Rust from 144 Cast Iron Silvering 153 Cast Iron Softening 156 Cast Iron Soldering Brass to 167 INDEX. 207 Cast Iron Soldering Gray 168 Cast Iron Studs Tinning ISO Cast Iron Tanks Cement for 37 Cast Iron Tinning 180 Cast Iron To Distinguish 73 Cast Iron To Enamel 73 Cast Iron To File 79 Cast Iron To Harden 89 Cast Iron To Scour 150 Cast Steel, Burnt To Restore 30 Cast Steel Welding 195 Cast Zinc Silvering 153 Cement Acid Proof 32 Cement Aquarium 33 Cement Armenian 52 Cement Bituminous 33 Cement, Black For Iron Ovens 33 Cement Bottle Cork 33 Cement Diamond 3i Cement Electrical 34 Cement Evans' Metallic 34 Cement Fire- Proof 35 Cement for Asbestos 35 Cement for Blast Pipes 36 Cement for Brass and Glass 36 Cement for Card and Tin 36 Cement for Casings 36 Cement for Cast Iron Tanks 37 Cement for Copper and Brass Pipe Parts 37 Cement for Defective Places in Castings 37 Cement for Fastening Copper on Sandstone 38 Cement for Fastening Hooks in Stone 37 Cement for Fastening Iron to Stone 38 Cement for Fastening Labels on Polished Nickel 38 Cement for Fastening Metals on Wood 38 Cement for Glass 38 Cement for Glass and Metal 42 Cement for Glass Parts on Lamps 38 Cement for Glass, Wood and Metal 39 Cement for Heated Objects 33 Cement for Iron Cisterns 39 Cement for Iron Railings 39 Cement for Joints 39. 52 Cement for Kerosene Lamps 40 208 INDEX. Cement for Labels on Nickel 40 Cement for Labels on Polished Nickel 38 Cement for Leather and Iron 41 Cement for Leak in Lead Pipe 41 Cement for Leaky Boilers 41 Cement for Luting Crucible Lids 41 Cement for Machine Parts 41 Cement for Metal and Glass 4ii Cement for Metal and Wood 38 Cement for Metal, Glass and Wood 3!i Cement for Metal Letters 4'2 Cement for Metal Mountings on Porcelain, Brass, etc.. .. 4:2 Cement for Metal Parts on Glass Lamps 43 Cement for Ovens 3:> Cement for Packing Steam Piatous 43 Cement for Pipe Conduits Unexposed to Heat 43 Cement for Punctured Tires 44 Cement for Repairing Iron Pans 44 Cement for Reservoir Joints 44 Cement for Small Articles 44 Cement for Steam Boilers 43 Cement for Steam Pipes 4." Cement for Stonework 4~> Cement for Stove Joints 45 Cement for Stoves 45 Cement for Tin and Glass 46 Cement for Tinfoil 46 Cement for Water Pipes 46 Cement for Wood and Metal 38 Cement for Wood, Glass and Metal 39 Cement for Zinc and Glass 40 Cement for Zinc Ornaments 4C Cement Gasfltters' 47 Cement Glass 47 Cement Grouvelle's Oil 47 Cement Impervious to Oil 47 Cementing Brass on Glass 48 Cementing Cracks in Stones 48 Cementing Glass Into Metal 48 Cementing Iron to Iron 49 Cementing Iron to Wood 49 Cementing Knives and Forks in Silver Handles 49 Cementing Knives and Forks in Their Handles 49 Cementing Metal Plates on Wooden Boxes 49 INDEX. 209 Cementing Rubber or Gutta Percha on Metal 50 Cementing Steam Pipes 50 Cementing Thin Metal Sheets 50 Cementing with Copper Amalgam 51 Cement Iron 51 Cement Iron for High Temperatures 52 Cement Jewelers' 52 Cement Metal 53 Cement Oil 53 Cement, Oil Stephenson's 53 Cement, Rust For Iron 53 Cements Rust Joint 53 Cement Stone 53 Cement Store 54 Cement Water Proof 35 Chandeliers Cleaning 57 Chaplets, Cast Iron Tinning 180 Cheap Bronze 21 Chilling Iron Very Hard 54 Chloride Cobaltous 62 Chloride Cupric 70 Chloride Ferric 78 Chloride Ferrous 79 Chloride Lead 107 Chloride of Gold 54 Chloride of Platinum 54 Chloride of Zinc 54 Chlorine Nickel 118 Chrome Yellow ". 54 Chry sochalk 55 Chrysorin 55 Church Bells Repairing 55 Cisterns Iron Cement for 39 Ctetern Water Purifying 141 Cleaning Brass 55 Cleaning Brass Paste for 123 Cleaning Bronze 56 Cleaning Bronze Fixtures 56 Cleaning Chandeliers 57 Cleaning Coins and Medals 57 Cleaning Golden Bronze 57 Cleaning Marble 58 Cleaning Old Brass 58 Cleaning Polishing Leather 58 210 INDEX. Cleaning Screws of Rust 58 Cleaning Silver Dial Plates 58 Cleaning Silver Ornaments 59 Cleaning Solder from Old Files 59 Cleaning Tinware 59 Cliche Metal 59 Clothes Wringer Rolls 198 Cloth To Glue to Tin 84 Coating Aluminum 59 Coating Aluminum For Iron and Steel 8 Coating Cast Iron a Glossy Black 61 Coating Gray on Zinc 87 Coating Iron Varnish for 190 Coating Iron with Copper 62 Coating Non-Rusting 119 Coating on Zinc Green 87 Coating Steel Gray 175 Coating Surfaces with Glass 60 Coating with Zinc 61 Coating Wood Varnish for 190 Cobaltous Chloride 62 Coffee-Colored Lacquer Kr> Coins and Medals Cleaning 57 Colcothar 62 Cold Soldering Alloy for Color, Blue For Iron and Steel 16 Color, Gray For Iron and Steel 87 Coloring Antimony on Brass 10 Coloring Brass 62 Coloring Brass Violet 63 Coloring Copper Blue-Black 63 Coloring Copper Brown 64 Coloring, Metal Iridescent 96 Coloring Soft Solder , 64 Coloring Solder 65 Coloring Golden Like Copper 66 Coloring Zinc 66 Colorless Lacquer 104 Color To Improve After Joining Brass with White Solder 92 Color Varnish for Sheet Metals 189 Composition Anti-Friction 10 Composition Transfer 185 Compound, Case-Hardening For Iron 32 INDEX. 211 Compound for Hardening Steefl 67, 89 Compound for Welding Wrought Iron and Steel 196 Compound, Hardening For Steel and Wrought Iron 89 Compound, Welding For Steel to Steel 195 Conduits Electrical Insulation for 95 Conduits, Pipe, Unexposed to Heat Cement for 43 Copal Gum 88 Copal Varnish 190 Copper Amalgam Cementing with 51 Copper and Brass Pipe Parts Cement for 37 Copper and Tin Alloy of 7 Copper as Coating for Iron 60 Copper Blackening 14 Copper Blue-Black Coloring for 63 Copper Bright Soldering 167 Copper Bronze 21 Copper Bronzing 26 Copper Browning 29 Copper Browning Liquid for 30 Copper Cement for Fastening on Sandstone 38 Copper Coating Iron with 62 Copper Dead Black Finish on 70 Copper Fire-Proof Brown Bronze on 20 Copper Hardening 90 Copper Hard Solder for 165 Coppering Sheet Iron 67 Coppering Tin 114 Copper Nitrate 67 Copper Oxidizing 120 Copper Phosphide of 125 Copper Polishing 130 Copper Powder 67 Copper Reslnate 68 Coppers Soldering Softening 157 Copper Steel Gray on 176 Copper To Color Brown 64 Copper To Color Solder Like 66 Copper Ungllding 186 Copper Vessels Tinning 180 Copper Welding 196 Copper Whitening 197 Copying Ink 92 Correcting Bad Smells 68 Corrosive Sublimate. .. . 68 212 INDEX. Covering for Steam Pipes ............................... 68 Covering, Insulating For Steam Pipes .................. 94 Cracks in Stones Cementing ........................... 48 Crucible Lids Cement for Luting ....................... 41 Crucibles Their Preparation ........................... 60 Crystallizing Tin Plate ................................. 6'J Cuivre Fume ........................................... 70 Cupric Chloride ........................................ 70 Cupric Sulphate ....................................... 70 Cutting Out Iron Plates with Sulphuric Acid ............ 96 Cyanide of Gold ........................................ 70 Damask-Its Production in Relief on Gun Barrels ................................................ I4O Dead Black Finish on Copper ........................... 70 Dead Lustre on Gold and Silver ......................... 108 Decorating Tin Plate Varnish for ...................... 191 Decorating Zinc ........................................ 71 Defective Places in Castings Cement for ............... 37 Delatot's Alloy ......................................... TZ Delta Metal ............................................ 72 Dial Plates, Silver To Clean ........................... 58 Diamond Amalgam ..................................... 9 Diamond Cement ....................................... 34 Discovering Lead in Tin ................................ 72 Dipped Brass Lacquer for ............................. 105 Distinguishing Cast Iron, Steel and Wrought Iron ....... 73 Edges Polished-Varnish for 192 Elastic Lacquer 105 Electrical Cement 34 Electrical Conduits Insulation for 95 Emetic Tartar 177 Enameled Work Solder for 143 Enameled Work Soldering 168 Enameling Castings 73 Enameling Cast Iron 73 Enameling Iron Ware with Porcelain 74 Enamel Test for 74 English Silver Soap 74 English Sterling Metal 75 Etching Liquid for Steel 75 INDEX. 213 Etching Names on steel ................................ 75 ELching on Glass ....................................... 76 Etching on Steel ........................................ 76 Evans' Metallic Cement ................................ 34 Extinguisher Fire ...................................... 80 Extracting Rust from Nickel-Plated Articles ............ 150 Extracting Rust from Steel ............................. 150 Fastening Asbestos to Iron .......................... 77 Fastening Copper on Sandstone Cement for ............ 38 Fastening Hooks in Stone Cement for .................. 37 Fastening Iron to Stone Cement for ................... 37 Fastening Knife and Fork Handles ...................... 77 Fastening Leather to Iron ........ . ..................... 77 Fastening Paper Labels to Iron ......................... 77 Fastening Roof ......................................... 77 Fastening Stone to Iron Cement for ................... 38 Fastening Tin Down ................................... 78 Fat Soldering .......................................... 168 Ferric Chloride ......................................... 78 Ferric Oxide ........................................... 78 Ferric Sulphate ........................................ 78 Ferricynanide Potassium ............................... 138 Ferro Manganese ....................................... 79 Ferrous Chloride ....................................... 79 Ferrous Sulphate ....................................... 79 Ferrous Sulphate Ammonia ............................ 10 Files Cleaning Solder from ............................ 51) Files Sharpening ....................................... 152 Files To Make Knives from ............................ 110 Files To Mend ......................................... 112 File Teeth Removal of Grease from .................... 143 Filing Brass ............................................ 7'J Filing Bronze .......................................... 7'J Filing Cast Iron .............................. .......... 79 Finish Dead Black on Copper .......................... 7 Finish for Brass Pipe .................................. 19 Fire Brick .............................................. 79 Fire Extinguisher ...................................... 80 Fire Grenades, Hand Solution for ............ .* ......... 89 Fire Kindler ........................................... 104 Fire-Proof Brown Bronze on Copper and Brass .......... 20 Fire-Proof Cement ..................................... 35 214 INDEX. Fire-Proof Paper ....................................... 123 Fluid Metal for Plaster Paris Mold Impressions ......... 113 Fluid Soldering ........................................ 168 Flux for Hard Solders .................................. 80 Fork Handles To Fasten ............................... 77 Forks Cementing in Silver Handles .................... 49 Forks Cementing in Their Handles ..................... 41) Freeing Polished Steel Articles from Rust ............... 149 Friction (Anti) Composition ............................ 10 Friction Matches ....................................... Ill Frosting Brass ......................................... 80 Frosting Tin Plates ..................................... 80 Furnace Lining ......................................... 80 Furnace Pipes Paste for ............................... 123 Fusible Metals ......................................... 114 Galvanized Cast Iron ..................... . .............. 81 Galvanizing with Gold .................................. 82 Gasfitters' Cement ...................................... 47 German Britannia Metal ................................ 82 German Silver Pickling ................................. 127 German Silver Solder for .............................. 161 Gilded Articles Separation of Gold from ................ 151 Gilding Bronze for ..................................... 21 Gilding Light Test for ................................. 82 Gilt Polishing ......................................... 12 Ingrained Rust Removal of, from Iron 140 Ink Carmine 92 Ink Copying 9:.' Ink for Marking Tinware 93 Ink for Rubber Stamps 93 Ink for Stencil Marking 93 Ink for Writing on Steel 94 Ink for Writing on Tin 94 Ink for Writing on Zinc 94 Ink Printers' 139 Ink Silver 135 Insulating Covering for Steam Pipes Insulation for Electrical Conduits , Insulation of Steam Boilers Iridescent Metal Coloring 96 Iron and Leather Cement for 41 Iron and Steel Aluminum Coating for 8 Iron and Steel Blue Color for 16 Iron and Steel Brilliant Blaek for 20 Iron and Steel Gray Color for 87 Iron, Band Tinning 180 Iron, ^Black 14 Iron, Black Cement for Iron Ovens 33 Iron Black Varnish for 188 Iron Bluing 18 Iron Bronzing 26. 27 Iron, Case-HardeningCompound for 32 Iron, Cast Bronze for 21 Iron, Cast Bronzing 25 Iron, Cast Case-Hardening 32 Iron, Cast Galvanized 81 Iron, Cast Gray Soldering 168 Iron, Cast Silvering 153 Iron, Cast Softening 156 Iron, Cast Soldering 168 218 INDEX. Iron, Cast Soldering Brass to 167 Iron, Cast Tinning 180 Iron, Cast To Coat a Glossy Black 61 Iron, Cast To Distinguish 73 Iron, Cast To Enamel 73 Iron, Cast To Harden 78 Iron Casting with Pure Lead 32 Iron Cement 51 Iron Cement for High Temperatures 52 Iron Cementing to Wood 40 Iron Chilling Very Hard 54 Iron Cisterns Cement for 3'J Iron, Coating Varnish for 11)0 Iron Fastening Asbestos to 77 Iron Fastening Leather to 77 Iron Fastening Paper Labels to 77 Iron Gluing Leather to 84 Iron Gold Bronzing for 85 Iron Hardening Mixture for 90 Iron Hard Solder for 105 Iron Instruments Solder for 102 Iron Lining with Porcelain 107 Iron Ovens Black Cement for 33 Iron Paiut for 121 Iron Pans, Repairing Cement for 44 Iron Patterns Varnish for 191 Iron Plates Cutting Out with Sulphuric Acid 90 Iron Plates Zinc Covered 199 Iron Polishing 131 Iron Pots and Pans To Mend 113 Iron Preservative for 138 Iron Preventing Rust in 131) Iron Protecting from Rust 140 Iron Railings Cement for 39 Iron Removal of Ingrained Rust from 149 Iron, Russia Preventing Rust in 139 Iron, Russia Soldering 170 Iron, Russia Testing 178 Iron Rust Cement for 53 Iron Silvering 153 Iron Silver Solder for 172 Iron, Sheet Blackening 14 Iron, Sheet Japan for 101 Iron, Sheet To Copper G7 INDEX. 219 Iron, Soft To Harden .................................. 90 Iron Steel Polish on ................................... 137 Iron Stove Cement ...................................... 52 Iron To Coat with Copper ............................ 60, 61 Iron to Iron Cementing ................................ 49 Iron to Stone Cement for .............................. 38 Iron Ungilding ......................................... 186 Iron Varnish for ....................................... 11)1 Iron Varnish to Prevent Rust in ........................ 194 Iron Ware To Enamel with Porcelain .................. 74 Iron Work Black Varnish for .......................... 187 Iron Work Protecting from Rust ....................... 140 Iron, Wrought To Distinguish .......................... 73 Isoli t ................................................... 96 Ivory Removal of Stains from .......................... 145 Japan Black ............................................... 97 Japanese Alloys ........................................ 7 Japanese Bell Metal .................................... 102 Japanese Lacquer Imitation ............................ 106 Japan Grounds Blue ................ ................... 98 Japan Grounds Green .................................. 98 Japanning .............................................. 99 Japanning Black Ground for ........................... 97 Japanning Old Tea Trays ............................... 99 Japan Orange Colored ................................. 100 Japan Painted ......................................... 100 Japan Purple .......................................... 100 Japan Scarlet .......................................... 10 Japan Sheet Iron ...................................... 10 Japan Tortoise Shell ................................... 101 Japan Transparent ..................................... 102 Japan Yellow .......................................... 102 Jewelers' Cement ....................................... 52 Jewelers' Rouge ................. . ...................... 129 Jewelers' Silver Solder ..................... . ........... 172 Jewelry Aluminum Bronze Solder for ................... 161 Johnson & Lund's Amalgam ............................ 9 Joints Cement for .................................... 39, 52 Joints, Reservoir Cement for ........................... 44 Joinis, Steel Silver Solder for .......................... 173 Joints, Stove Cement for ............................... 45 Joints To Make Sound ................................. 109 220 INDEX. Karakene ................................................ 7, IO2 Kamarsch's Britannia Metal ............................ 103 Keeping Machines from Rusting ........................ 103 Keeping Metals from Rusting ........................... 103 Keeping Tinware Bright ................................ 104 Keller's Britannia Metal ................................ 104 Kerosene Lamps Cement for ........................... 40 Kerosene Testing ....................................... 177 Kindler Fire ........................................... 104 Knife and Fork Handles To Fasten .................... 77 Knives Cementing in Silver Handles ................... 49 Knives Cementing in Their Handles .................... 49 Knives Removing Rust from ........................... 144 Knives To Make from Old Files ........................ 110 Labeling Tin-Mucilage for ......................... I 18 Labels Cement for Fastening on Polished Nickel ........ 38 Labels on Nickel Cement for ........................... 40 Labels Paper to Fasten to Iron ......................... 77 Labels Paste for ....................................... li Labels Pasting on Tin ................................. 124 Labels To Glue on Tin Boxes .......................... 84 Lacquer Brass ......................................... 104 Lacquer Coffee-Colored ................................. 104 Lacquer Colorless ...................................... 105 Lacquer Elastic ........................................ 105 Lacquer for Dipped Brass ............................... 105 Lacquer for Polished Brass ............................. 105 Lacquer for Steel ....................................... 106 Lacquer for Tin ........................................ 106 Lacquer Gold .......................................... 106 Lacquer, Gold For Metal Goods ........................ 106 Lacquer Imitation Japanese .................... .- ....... 10G Lamps Cement for Metal Parts on ..................... 43 Lamps, Glass Parts on Cement for ..................... 38 Lamps, Kerosene Cement for .......................... 40 Lawrence's Amalgam ................................... 9 Lead Acetate of ....................................... 5 Lead Chloride ......................................... 107 Lead Hard Nickel ..................................... 118 INDEX. 221 Lead Pipe, Leak in Cement for ......................... 41 Lead, Pure Casting Iron with .......................... 32 Lead Separation of Zinc from .......................... 15 Lead Sulphate ......................................... 107 Lead Testing Tin Pipe for ............................. 183 Lead To Discover in Tin ............................... 72 Leak in Lead Pipe Cement for ......................... 41 Leaky Boilers Cement for ............................. 41 Leaky Gutters Repairing ............................... 14 Leather and Iron Cement for .......................... 41 Leather Polishing, Cleaning ............................ 58 Leather to Iron To Fasten ............................. 77 Lettering Upon Steel ................................... 107 Letters, Metal Cement for ............................. 42 Lechesne ............................................... 107 Lids, Crucible Cement for Luting ...................... 41 Light Gilding Test for ................................. 82 Light Silvering Test for ............................... 154 Lining for Furnaces .................................... 80 Lining Iron with Porcelain .............................. 107 Lining, Stove To Mend ........................... . ..... 113 Lipowitz Alloy ......................................... 7 Liquid Amalgam for Silvering Globes .................... 9 Liquid Bronze .......................................... 23 Liquid Etching for Steel ............................... 75 Liquid for Browning Copper ............................ 30 Liquid Silver Test for ................................. 155 Liquid Soldering ....................................... 170 Loosening Rusted Screws ............................... 141) Luminous Oil Color Paint ............................... 122 Luminous Paint ........................................ 122 Luminous Paints Orange .............................. 120 Lustre, Dead On Gold and Silver .............. ......... 108 Lustre for Tin .......................................... 108 Lustreless Surfaces on Steel ............................ 108 Lustrous Black on Brass ................................ 109 Luting Crucible Lids Cement for ....................... 41 Machine Parts Cement for .......................... 41 Machinery Varnish for ........................ . ........ 192 Magnets Tempering ................................ .... 177 Making Holes in Hard Steel ............................. 109 222 INDEX. Making Joints Sound 109 Making Metal Pipes Ill Making Platinum Adhere to Gold 109 Malleable Brass 110 Malleable Britannic Metal 110 Manufacture of Knives from Old Files 110 Marble Cleaning 58 Marbling Zinc Ill Marking Stencil Ink for 1)3 Marking Tinware Ink for 93 Matches Friction Ill Medals and Coins Cleaning 57 Medals Bronze for 22 Medals Bronzing 28 Melting Gutta Percha 112 Mending Files 112 Mending Granite Ware 112 Mending Iron Pots and Pans 113 Mending Stove Lining 113 Mercuric Nitrate 118 Mercury Tefct for 113 Metal Aich 5 Metal and Glass Cement for 42 Metal and Wood Cement for 38 Metal Ashberry 11 Metal Babbitt's Anti-Attrition 11 Metal Bell 13 Metal Biddery 13 Metal Birmingham Britannia 13 Metal Britannia 20 Metal, Britannia Malleable 110 Metal, Britannia Pewter 125 Metal, Britannia Wagner's 194 Metal Bronze 23 Metal Browning 30 Metal Cement 53 Metal Cementing Glass Into 48 Metal Cementing Gutta Percha on 50 Metal Cementing Rubber on 50 Metal Cliche 59 Metal Coloring Iridescent 96 Metal Delta 72 Metal English Sterling 75 Metal Fluid for Plaster Paris Mold Impressions 13 INDEX. 223 Metal German Britannia 82 Metal, Glass and Wood Cement for 39 Metal Goods Gold Lacquer for 106 Metal Gun 89 Metal Keller's Britannia 104 Metal Letters Cement for 42 Metallic Cement Evans' 34 Metallic Patterns Transfer Paper for 185 Metalline 114 Metallique Moire 115 Metal Mlnofor 115 Metal Mountings on Brass Cement for 42 Metal Mountings on Porcelain Cement for 42 Metal Muntz 118 Metal Newton's 118 Metal Parts in Glass Lamps Cement for 43 Metal Plates To Cement on Wooden Boxes 49 Metal Pipes To Make Ill Metal Polish Paste 123 Metal-Queen's 141 Metal Robierre's 147 Metal Rose's 147 Metals Fusible 114 Metals Green Varnish for 193 Metals, Sheet Asphalt Varnish for 187 Metals, Sheet Color Varnish for 189 Metal Sheets Thin Cementing 50 Metal Speculum 15 Metals Polishing 132 Metals, Polishing Rouge for 147 Metals Preventing from Rusting 119 Metals, Silvering Powder for 138 Metals Tinning 181 Metals, Tinning Bath for 179 Metals To Glaze 84 Metals Tissier's 184 Metal Tournay's 184 Metal Varnish 193 Metal Warne's 194 Metal White 197 Metal Work Soap for 156 Method of Coppering Tin 114 Minargent 115 Mineral Green 115 224 INDEX. Mineral Oil Removing ................................. 143 Mining Picks Tempering ............................... 177 Minofor Metal .......................................... 115 Mirrors Silvering ...................................... 154 Mixture Hardening for Iron ............................ 90 Moire Metallique ....................................... 115 Mokume ................................................ 7 Mosaic Gold ............................................ 116 Mousset's Silver Alloy .................................. 7 Movements, Watch Polishing .......................... 132 Mucilage ............................................... 116 Mucilage For Labeling Tin ............................. 116 Muntz Metal ........................................... 118 Names-To Etch on Steel ............................. 75 Neogen ................................................. 118 Newton's Metal ........................................ 118 Nickel Aluminum ...................................... 118 Nickel-Chlorine ........................................ 118 Nickel Hard Lead ..................................... 118 Nickeling ............................................... 118 Nickeling Zinc .......................................... 118 Nickel, Labels on Cement for .......................... 40 Nickel Nitric .......................................... 11!) Nickel-Plated Articles To Extract Rust from ........... 150 Nickel Plate Removing Rust from ...................... 144 Nickel-Plating on Zinc .................................. 11!) Nickel Polished Cement for Fastening Labels on ........ 38 Nickel Recovery of, from Old Solutions ................ 142 Nickel-Solder for ...................................... 162 Nickel Sulphate ........................................ 119 Nickel Waste Utilizing ................................. 187 Nickel Watch Movements Polishing .................... 132 Nickel Zinc ............................................ 199 Nitrate Bismuth ....................................... 14 Nitrate Copper ......................................... 67 Ni'trate Mercuric ....................................... 113 Nitrate of Silver ........................................ 119 Nitric Nickel .......................................... 119 Non-Poisonous Silvering Solution ....................... 155 Non-Rusting Coating ................................... 119 Nurnberg Gold ......................................... 120 INDEX. 225 Oil Cement .................................................. 53 Oil Cement Grouvelle's ................................ 47 Oil Cement Stephenson's ............................... 53 Oil Color Luminous Paint ............................... 122 Oil.Mineral Removing .................................. 143 Old Brass Cleaning .................................... 58 Old Files Cleaning Solder from ........................ 59 Orange Luminous Paints ................................ 120 Ormolu Bronze ......................................... 23 Ornaments, Silver Cleaning ............................ 59 Ornaments, Zinc Cement for ........................... 47 Oroide .................................................. 120 Oven Cement ........................................... 33 Ovens, Iron Black Iron Cement for ..................... 33 Oxide Argentic ........................................ 11 Oxide Ferric ........................................... 78 Oxide Zinc ............................................. 199 Oxidizing Silver or Copper .............................. 120 Oxidizing Zinc .......................................... 120 Packing Steam Pistons Cement for ............ 43 Painted Japan .......................................... 100 Paint for Tin Pots ..................................... 121 Paint for Tin Roof and for Iron ......................... 121 Paint for Tin Roofing ................................ ... 121 Painting Zinc .......................................... 121 Paint Luminous ....................................... 122 Paint, Luminous Oil Color ............................. 122 Paint, Luminous Orange ............................... 120 Pans, Iron, Repairing Cement for ...................... 44 Pans, Iron To Mend ............... . .................... 113 Paper Fire-Proof ...................................... 123 Paper Labels To Fasten to Iron ........................ 77 Paper Tracing ......................................... 184 Paper, Transfer For Metallic Patterns ................. 185 Parts, Machine Cement for ............................ 41 Paste for Cleaning Brass ............................... 123 Paste for Furnace Pipes ................................ 123 Paste for Labels ........................................ 123 Paste-Metal Polish .................................... 123 Paste Polishing ........................................ 1S3 226 INDEX. Paste Polishing for Brass 133 Paste Polishing for Silvering 133 Paste Soldering 170 Paste Stove 124 Paste Stove Polish 124 Pasting Labels on Tin 124 Patina 24 Patina Bronze on Tin 23 Patterns, Iron Varnish for 191 Patterns Metallic Transfer Paper for 185 Peruvian Bronze 23 Pewter Britannia Metal 125 Pewterers' Solder 172 Phosphide of Copper 123 Phosphide of Tin 125 Phosphor Bronze 24 Piano Wire Steel To Harden 90 Pickling Brats 126 Pickling Castings 127 Pickling German Silver 127 Pickling Zinc 127 Picks, Mining Tempering 177 Pinchbeck 127 Pipe Conduits Unexposed to Heat Cement for 43 Pipe Finish Brass 19 Pipe Parts, Brass and Copper Cement for 37 Pipes, Blast Cement for 36 Pipes, Furnace Paste for 123 Pipes, Metal To Make Ill Pipes, Steam Cementing 45, 50 Pipes, Steam Insulating Covering for 94 Pipes, Steam To Cover 68 Pipes, Water Cement for 46 Pipe, Tin Testing for Lead 183 Pistons, Steam Cement for Packing 43 Plaster Paris Mold Impervious Metal Fluid for 113 Plating Nickel on Zinc 119 Plating, Silver Solder for 172 Plating with Platinum 127 Platin'de 128 Platinum Chloride of 54 Platinum Plating with 127 Platinum Solder 171 Platinum To Make Adhere to Gold 109 INDEX. 227 Plumbers' Coarse Solder 172 Plumbers' Fine Solder 172 Plumbers' Sealed Solder 172 Plumbers' Soil 128 Polished Edges Varnish for 192 Polished Nickel Cement for Fastening Labels on Polished Steel Freeing from Rust 149 Polished Steel Removal of Rusit from 144 Polish for Pressed Articles of Brass 128 Polishing Antimony 128 Polishing Articles of Steel Gilt, Bronze, Gold, etc 129 Polishing Balls for Silver 129 Polishing Brass 130 Polishing Brass, Copper and Tombac 130 Polished Brass Lacquer for : 105 Polishing Cartridges 131 Polishing Gold 131 Polishing Iron 131 Polishing, Leather Cleaning Polishing Metals 132 Polishing Metals Rouge for 147 Polishing Nickel Watch Movements 132 Polishing Paste 133 Polishing Paste for Brass 133 Polishing Paste for Silvering 133 Polishing Pomade 133 Polishing Pomade for Gold 134 Polishing Powder Belgian 12 Polishing Powder for Goldsmiths 134 Polishing Powder for Silver 134 Polishing Silver 135 Polishing Silvered Ware 135 Polishing Silverware 135 Polishing Soap 135 Polishing Steel 131, 135 Polishing Tin 137 Polishing Water 137 Polishing Zinc 137 Polish Metal Paste 123 Polish Steel on Iron 137 Polish Stove Paste 124 Pomade Polishing 133 Porcelain Lining Iron with 107 Porcelain Metal Mountings on Cement for 43 ir_'S INDEX. Porcelain T-o Euamel Iron Ware \yith .................. 74 Potassium Ferricyanide ................................ 138 Potin ................................................... 138 Pots, Iron To Mend .................................... 113 Powder Belgian Polishing .............................. 12 Powder Copper ........................................ 67 Powdering for Silvering Metals ......................... 138 Powder, Polishing For Gold ............................ 134 Powder, Polishing For Goldsmiths ..................... 134 Powder, Polishing For Silver ........................... 134 Preservative for Iron and Steel ......................... 138 Preserving Polished Iron Surfaces ...................... 138 Pressed Articles of Brass Polish for .................... 128 Preventing Metals from Rusting ........................ 149 Preventing Rust in Iron and Steel ...................... 139 Preventing Rust in Russia Iron ......................... 139 Preventing Screws from Rusting ........................ 151 Preventing Steel from Rusting .......................... 150 Printers' Ink ........................................... 139 Print Process Blue .................................... 17 Prints Blue ............................................ 17 Process of Blue Printing ................................ 17 Production of Damask in Relief on Gun Barrels ......... 140 Protecting Iron from Rust .............................. 140 Protecting Iron Work from Rusting ..................... 140 Prussiate of Silver ..................................... 140 Pulverizing Solder ...................................... 140 Punctured Tires Cement for ........................... 44 Pure Lead Casting Iron with ........................... 32 Purifying Cistern Water ................................ 141 Purifying Gold ......................................... 87 Purple Japan .......................................... 100 Purple of Cassius ...................................... 141 Putty Stove ........................................... 141 Putty Tin ............................................. 183 Putty, Old Removing .................................. 144 Queen's Metal ............................................ 141 Railings-Iron Cement for ............................. 39 Recovery of Gold and SHver from Sweepings ............ 142 INDEX. 229 Recovery of Nickel from Old Solutions 142 Recovery of Tin from Scrap 142 Red Brass ID Refractory Solder for Enameled Work 143 Removal of Ingrained Rust from Iron 149 Removing Acid Spots from Steel 143 Removing Grease from File Teeth 143 Removing Mineral Oil 143 Removing Old Putty 144 Removing Rust from Cast Iron 144 Removing Rust from Knives 144 Removing Rust from Nickel Plate 144 Removing Rust from Polished Steel 144 Removing Rust from Steel 145 Removing Rust from Steel Tools 145 Removing Rusty Bolts 145 Removing Stains from Ivory 145 Removing Tarnish from Gold After Hard Soldering 145 Removing Wax Spots 143 Repairing Agate Ware 5 Repairing Church Bells 55 Repairing Iron Pans Cement for 44 Repairing Leaky Gutters 146 Repairing Valleys 146 Repairing Wringers 146 Repairing Wringer Rolls 146 Replacing Boiler Bottoms 146 Reservoir Joints Cement for 44 Restoring Burnt Cast Steel 30 Restoring Burnt Steel Tools 31 Robierre's Metal 147 Rods Side Brasses for 19 Rolls, Wringer 198 Roof To Fasten 77 Roseine 147 Rose's Metal 147 Rosthorn's Sterro Metal 147 Rouge for Polishing Metals 147 Rouge Jewelers' 12!) Roughening Sheet Brass 148 Rubber Cementing on Metal 50 Rubber Softening 156 Rubber Stamps Ink for 93 Russia Iron Preventing Rust in 139 230 INDEX. Russia Iron Soldering 170 Russia Iron Testing 178 Rust Cement for Iron 53 Rusted Screws Loosening 149 Rust Freeing Polished Steel Articles from 149 Rusting Preventing Metals from 149 Rust, Ingrained Removal of, from Iron 149 Rusting To Prevent Screws from 151 Rusting To Prevent Steel from 150 Rust Joint Cements 53 Rust Preventing in Iron 139 Rust Preventing in Russia Iron 139 Rust Preventing in Steel 139 Rust Protecting Iron from 140 Rust Protecting Iron Work from 140 Rust Removal of from Polished Steel 144 Rust Removing from Cast Iron 144 Rust Removing from Knives 144 Rust Removing from Nickel Plate 144 Rust Removing from Steel 145 Rust Removing from Steel Tools 145 Rust To Clean Screws from 58 Rust To Extract from Nickel Plated Articles 150 Rust To Extract from Steel 150 Rust Varnish, to Prevent In Iron and Steel 194 Rusty Bolts Their Removal 145 Salt-Cold 86 Salt Tin 183 Sandstone Cement for Fastening Copper to 38 Saws Soldering 170 Scarlet Japan 101 Schweinfurth Green 150 Scouring Cast Iron, Zinc or Brass 150 Scrap Recovery of Tin from 142 Scratch Brushing 151 Screws, Rusted Loosening 149 Screws To Clean from Rust 58 Screws To Prevent from Rusting 151 Separation of Gold from Gilded Articles 151 Separation of Lead from Zinc 151 Sepia, Brown For Tin 152 Shadke 7 INDEX. 231 Sharpening Files 152 Sheet Brass Roughening 148 Sheet Iron Blackening 14 Sheet Iron Japan 101 Sheet Iron To Copper 67 Sheet Metals Asphalt Varnish for 187 Sheet Metals Color Varnish for 189 Sheet Steel Bluing 17 Sheets, Thin Metal Cementing 50 Sheet Zinc Blacking 15 Siachu 7 Side Rods Brass for 19 Silver Alloy Mousset's 7 Silver Burnishing 30 Silver Carbonate 152 Silver Dead Lustre on 108 Silver Dial Plates To Clean 58 Silvered Ware Polishing 135 Silver, German Pickling 127 Silver Handles Cementing Knives and Forks in 49 Silver Hard Solder for 165 Silver Horn 152 Silvering Bronze 153 Silvering Cast Iron 153 Silvering Cast Zinc 153 Silvering Globes Liquid Amalgam for 9 Silvering Iron 153 Silvering Light Test for 154 Silvering Metals Powder for 138 Silvering Mirrors 154 Silvering Polishing Paste for 133 Silvering Solution Non-Poisonous 156 Silver Ink 155 Silver Liquid Test for 155 Silver Nitrate of 119 Silveroid 155 Silver Ornaments Cleaning 59 Silver Oxidizing 120 Silver Polishing 135 Silver, Polishing Balls for 129 Silver, Polishing Powder for 134 Silver Prussiate of 140 Silver Recovery of, from Sweepings 142 Silver Silver Solder for 172 232 INDEX. Silver Soap English 74 Silver Solder 172 Silver Solder for Brass 172 Silver Solder for Iron 172 Silver Solder for Jewelers 172 Silver Solder for Plating 172 Silver Solder for Silver 172 Silver Solder for Steel Joints 173 Silver Sulphate 155 Sliver Sulphide 156 Silverware Polishing 135 Silverware Ungilding 180 Similor 15G Small and Thin Pieces Hard Solder for 165 Small Articles Cement for 44 Small Articles Tinning 181 Small Castings Bronze for 22 Smells Their Correction 68 Soap English Silver 74 Soap for Metal Work 156 Soap Polishing l.T, Soil Plumbers' 128 Softening Cast Iron 156 Softening Rubber 156 Softening Soldering Coppers 157 Softening Steel 157 Soft Iron Hardening 90 Soft Solder 173 Soft Solder for Aluminum Bronze 174 Soft Solder To Color 64 Solder 157 Solder Aoids for 158 Solder Alloy for 6 Solder Argentan 158 Solder Bismuth 158 Solder for Aluminum 160 Solder for Aluminum Bronze 165 Solder for Aluminum Bronze Jewelry 161 Solde Solde Solde Solde Solde for Britannia Metal 160 for German Silver 161 for Glass 161 for Gold 161 for Hard Brass 161 Solder for Iron and Steel Instruments 162 INDEX. 233 Solder for Nickel 162 Solder for Silver 162 Solder for Tin Pans 164 Solder for Uniting Brass Tube Seams 164 Solder for Zinc Castings 164 Solder Gold 164 Solder Hard Flux for 80 Solder, Hard For Copper, Brass and Iron 104 Solder, Hard For Gold 163 Solder, Hard For Iron 163 Solder, Hard For Silver 163 Solder, Hard For Small and Thin Pieces 163 Solder, Hulot's For Aluminum Bronze 166 Soldering Aluminum with a Blow Pipe 166 Soldering Aluminum with a Soldering Iron 166 Soldering Autogenous 166 Soldering Brass to Cast Iron 167 Soldering Bright Copper 167 Soldering Cast Iron Articles 168 Soldering, Cold Alloys for 5 Soldering Coppers Softening 157 Soldering Enameled Work 168 Soldering Fat 168 Soldering Fluid 168 Soldering Gold 169 Soldering Gray Cast Iron 168 Soldering, Hard Removal of Tarnish from Gold After. . 145 Soldering Iron Aluminum Soldering with 166 Soldering Iron Soldering Without 171 Soldering Irons Tinning 182 Soldering Liquid 170 Soldering Paste 170 Soldering Russia Iron 170 Soldering Saws 170 Soldering Without a Soldering Iron 171 Solder Pewterers' 172 Solder Platinum 171 Solder Plumbers' Coarse 172 Solder Plumbers' Fine 172 Solder Plumbers' Sealed 172 Solder Pulverizing 140 Solder, Refractory For Enameled Work 143 Solder Silver. 172 Solder, Silver For Brass 172 234 INDEX. Solder, Silver For Iron 172 Solder, Silver For Jewelers 172 Solder, Silver For Plating 172 Solder, Silver For Silver 172 Solder, Silver For Steel Joints 173 Solder Soft 173 Solder, Soft For Aluminum Bronze 174 Solder, Soft To Color 64 Solder-Spelter 174 Solder Tinners' 174 Solder Tinners' Fine 174 Solder To Clean from Old Files 59 Solder To Color 65 Solder-Wire 174 Solution for Hand Fire Grenades 89 Solution, Silvering Non-Poisonous 155 Solutions, Old Recovery of Nickel from 142 Speculum Metal 175 Spelter Solder 174 Staining Wood Black 175 Stains, Gold For Brass 86 Stains Their Removal from Ivory 145 Stamps, Rubber ink for 93 Stannic Sulphite 175 Statuary Bronze 24 Steam Boilers Cement for 45 Steam Boiler Insulation 175 Steam Pipes Cement for 45 Steam Pipes Cementing , 50 Steam Pipes Insulating Covering for 94 Steam Pipes To Cover 68 Steam Pistons Cement for Packing 43 Steel and Iron Aluminum Coating for 8 Steel and Iron Blue Color for 16 Steel an 1 Iron Brilliant Black for 20 Steel and Iron Gray Color for 87 Steel and Wrought Iron Compound for Welding 196 Steel and Wrought Iron Compound for Hardening 89 Steel Annealing 10 Steel Articles, Small Tinning 182 Steel-Black Varnish for 188 Steel Bluing 18 Steel Bronzing 27 Steel, Burnt Cast To Restore . 30 INDEX. 235 Steel, Cast Welding 195 Steel Compound for Hardening 67 Steel Etching Liquid for 75 Steel Extracting Rust from 150 Steel-Gray Coating 175 Steel-Gray on Brass 176 Steel-Gray on Copper 176 Steel, Hardening Compound for 89 Steel, Hard Making Holes in 109 Steel Ink for Writing on 94 Steel Instruments Solder for 162 Steel Joints-Silver Solder for 173 Steel Lacquer for 106 Steel Lettering Upon 107 Steel Lustreless Surfaces on 108 Steel Made to Imitate Gold 176 Steel Piano Wire Hardening 90 Steel, Polished Freeing from Rust 149 Steel, Polished Removal of Rust from 144 Steel Polishing 131 Steel Polish on Iron 137 Steel Preservative for 138 Steel Preventing Rust in 139 Steel Removing Acid Spots from 143 Steel, Sheet Bluing ' 17 Steel Softening 157 Steel To Distinguish 73 Steel To Etch Names on 75 Steel To Etch on 76 Steel To Prevent from Rusting 150 Steel Tools, Burnt To Restore 31 Steel to Steel Welding 196 Steel to Steel Welding Compound for 195 Steel Ungilding 186 Steel Varnish to Prevent Rust in 194 Stencil Marking Ink for 93 Stephenson's Oil Cement 53 Sterro Metal 177 Sterro Metal Rosthorn's 147 Stone Cement 53 Stone, Hooks in Cement for. 37 Stone to Iron Cement for 38 Stone Work Cement for 45 Stove Blacking 15 286 INDEX. Stove Cement 54 Stove Cement Iron 52 Stove Joints Cement for 45 Stove Lining To Mend 113 Stove Paste l-'4 Stove Polish Paste. . i 1-4 Stove Putty 141 Stoves Black Varnish for 188 Stoves Cement for 45 Stoves, Cracks in Cementing 48 Studs, Cast Iron Tinning 180 Sulphate Cupric 70 Sulphate Ferric 78 Sulphate Ferrous 71) Sulphate Lead 107 Sulphate Nickel ill) Sulphate Zinc 19-.1 Sulphide Silver 156 Sulphide Stannic 175 Sulphuric Acid Cutting Out Iron Plates with 96 Sun Bronze 24 Sweepings Recovery of Gold and Silver from 142 Talml-Cold 177 Tanks, Cast Iron Cement for 37 Tarnish Removal of, from Gold After Hard Soldering. . 145 Tartar Emetic 177 Tea Trays Japanning 99 Temperature, High Iron Cement for 52 Tempering Magnets 177 Tempering Mining Picks 177 Test for Brass 19 Test for Enamel 74 Test for Genuine Gold 86 Test for Goldware 87 Test for Light Gilding 82 Test for Light Silvering 154 Teat for Mercury 113 Test for Tin 183 Testing Kerosene 177 Testing Russia Iron 178 Testing Tin Foil . . 178 INDEX. 237 Testing Tin Pipe for Lead 183 Thin and Small Pieces Hard Solder for 165 Thin Metal Sheets Cementing 50 Tiers Argent 178 Tin and Card Cement for 36 Tin and Copper Alloy of 7 Tin and Glass Cement for 46 Tin Black Varnish for 188 Tin Boxes To Glue Labels on 84 Tin Bronze Patina on 23 Tin Bronzing 29 Tin Burning 178 Tin Fastening Down 78 Tin Foil Cement for 46 Tin Foil Testing 178 Tin Gluing Cloth to 84 Tin Green Bronze for 23 Tin Ink for Writing on 94 Tin Lacquer for 106 Tin Lustre for 108 Tin Mucilage for Labeling 116 Tinners' 'Fine Solder 174 Tinning 179 Tinning Band Iron 180 Tinning Bath for Metals 179 Tinning Brass and Copper Vessels 180 Tinning Cast Iron 180 Tinning Cast Iron Chaplets 7 180 Tinning Cast Iron Studs 180 Tinning Cloth 180 Tinning Metals 181 Tinning Small Articles 181 Tinning Small Steel Articles 182 Tinning Soldering Irons 182 Tin Pans Solder for 164 Tin Pasting Labels on 124 Tin Phosphide of 125 Tin Plate Scraps Untinning 186 Tin Plates To Crystallize 69 Tin Plates To Frost 80 Tin Plate Varnish for 1<3 Tin Plate Varnish for Decorating 191 Tin Pipe Testing for Lead 183 Tin Polishing 137 238 INDEX. Tin Pots Paint for 121 Tin Putty 183 Tin Recovery of, from Scrap 142 Tin Roofing Paint for 121 Tin Salt 183 Tin, Sepia Brown for 152 Tin Test for 183 Tin To Copper 114 Tin To Discover Lead in 72 Tin Tubes Bending 13 Tinware Brightening 1'J Tinware Ink for Marking 93 Tinware To Clean 59 Tinware To Keep Bright 104 Tin Washing Brass with 1!)4 Tiros, Punctured Cement for 44 Tissier's Metal 184 Tombac 184 Tombac Polishing 130 Tools, Steel, Burnt To Restore 31 Tools, Steel Removing Rust from 145 Tools To Harden 91 Tortoise Shell Japan 101 Tournay's Metal 184 Townsend's Amalgam y Townsend's Improved Amalgam 9 Tracing Paper 184 Transfer Composition 185 Transfer Paper for Metallic Patterns 185 Transparent Green Varnish 1!3 Transparent Japan 102 Trays, Tea Japanning 99 Tripoli 185 Tubes, Tin Bending 13 Tucker Bronze 24 Tutania . . 185 L-T Ungi Id ing Copper 186 Ungilding Iron and Steel 186 Ungtlding Silverware 186 I'utinulng Tin Plate Scraps 186 Utilizing Nickel Waste 187 INDEX. 239 Valleys-Repairing ....................................... 146 Varnish, Asphalt For Sheet Metals ..................... 187 Varnish, Black For Iroii Work ......................... 187 Varnish, Black For Steel and Iron ...................... 188 Varnish, Black For Stoves ............................. 188 Varnish, Black For Tin ................................ 188 Varnish, Black For Zinc ............................... 189 Varnish, Color For Sheet Metals ....................... ISO Varnish Oopal ......................................... 100 Varnish For Coating Iron .............................. 100 Varnish For Coating Wood ............................. 100 Varnish For Decorating Tin Plate ...................... 101 Varnish For Iron ...................................... 191 Varnish For Iron Patterns ............................. 1'Jl Varnish For Machinery ................................ IX! Varnish For Polished Edges ........................... l:>2 Varnish For Tin Plate ................................. lo:>, Varnish, Green For Metals ............................. 103 Varnish Green Transparent ............................ 193 Varnish Metal ......................................... 193 Varnish To Prevent Rust In Iron and Steel ............. 104 Verdigris ............................................... 104 Violet Coloring- For Brass .............................. 63 Wagner's Britannia Metal ........................... 194 Walker's Amalgam ..................................... 9 Ware Repairing, Agate ................................ 5 Warner's Metal ........................................ 104 Washing Brass with Tin ................................ 104 Waste Nickel Its Utilization ........................... 187 Watch Movements Polishing ........................... 132 Water, Cistern Purifying .............................. 141 Water Pipes Cement for ............................... 4G Water Polishing ........................................ 1:57 Water Proof Cement .................................... 35 Wax Spots Removing .................................. 143 Welding Cast Steel ..................................... 103 Weld'.ng Compound For Steel to Steel ................. . 105 Welding Copper ........................................ 106 Welding Steel to Steel .................................. 106 Wolding Wrought Iron and Steel Compound for ........ 106 Welding Wrought Iron to Wrought Iron at a Red Heat. . 197 240 - INDEX. White Metal ........................................... 197 Whitening Brass ....................................... 197 Whitening Copper ...................................... 197 Whitewash ............................................. 198 Wire, Piano, Steel To Harden .......................... 90 Wire Solder ............................................ 174 Wood and Metal Cement for ........................... 38 Wood Cementing Iron to ............................... 4'J Wood Coating Varnish for ............................. 190 Wooden Boxes Cementing Metal Plates on ............. 49 Wood, Glass and Metal Cement for .................... 39 Wood's Alloy ........................................... 8 Wood Staining Black .................................. 173 Wringer Rolls .......................................... 198 Wringer Rolls Clothes ................................. 198 Wringer Rolls Repairing ............................... 148 Wringers Repairing .................................... 146 Writing on Steel Ink for ............................... 94 Writing on Tin Ink for ................................ 94 Writing on Zinc Inks for .............................. 94 Wrought Iron and Steel Compound for Welding ........ * 190 Wrought Iron and Steel Hardening Compound for ...... 89 Wrought Iron To Distinguish .......................... 73 Wrought Iron Welding to Wrought Iron at a Red Heat. . 197 Yellow-Chrome ........................................... 84 Yellow Japan... ....................................... 102 Zinc and Class Cement for 46 Zinc Black Varnish for 189 Zinc Bronzing 29 Zinc Castings Solder for 164 Zinc, Cast Silvering 153 Zinc Chloride of 54 Zinc-Covered Iron Plates 199 Zinc Gray coating on 87 Zinc Green Coating on 87 Zinc Ink for Writing on 94 Zinc Its Decoration 71 Zinc Marbling Ill Zinc Nickel 199 Zinc Nickeling 118 INDEX. 241 Zinc Nickel Plating on lit) Zinc Ornaments Cement for 47 Zinc Oxide 191) Zinc Oxidizing 120 Zinc Painting 121 Zinc Pickling 127 Zinc Polishing 137 Zinc Separation of Lead from 151 Zinc, Sheet Blacking 15 Zinc Sulphate. 199 Zinc To Coat with 61 Zinc To Color 66 Zinc To Harden 91 Zinc To Scour 152 HOT-WATER. CIRCULATOR The Best and the Cheapest. Write for Catalogue and Prices. Isaac A. Sheppard & Co, 1801 N. 4th St., PHILADELPHIA. Also New York and Baltimore. Quality and Prompt Shipments Guaranteed, WE MAKE A FULL LINE OF Cornices, Sky-Lights, Finials, Ceilings, Sidings, Roofings, Etc. WE ALSO MAKE THE CELEBRATED REVERSIBLE EAVES TROUGH, CORRUGATED & PLAIN ROUND CONDUCTOR. ELBOWS, CUT-OFFS, Etc., Etc. Tin Plates, Solders, Sheet Copper, Zinc, Rivets and Everything in the Sheet Metal Line. THE DICKELMAN-BOWERS MFG, CO, FOREST, OHIO. Send for Catalogue and Special Discount Sheet A. HrtVWWWWWM PUBLISHED WEEKir AF $2.00 PER YEAR. IN ADVANCE If you are a tinner or stove dealer, hardware or heating man, you cannot afford to do without THE AMERICAN ARTISAN. This journal gives the latest news of the stove world, treats editorially of matters of commercial interest, gives the latest Hardware Association news, chronicles the changes in the retail trade, tells of new goods, contains technical articles on steam, hot water and furnace heating, etc. The Tinshop Department gives diagrams for pattern cutting, contains letters from tinners on topics of trade interest, etc. The Notes and Queries Department contains answers to questions that often make a single number worth more than the price of a year's subscription. The Free Want and Sales Columns have often secured tinners, or tinners have secured sit- uations or disposed of tools through this source. Our New Patent Department keeps the trade posted on the latest inventions. Current market quotations are given. Address, enclosing currency, express or postoff ice money order or draft DANIEL STERN, Publisher 69 Dearborn Street, Chicago Illlltlllllllllllljllllllllllllillllllllllll)lllll)lll>lllllllllllt1 ^ BOOKS BY MAIL. Books on Plumbing Books on Sheet Metal Work Books on Metallurgy Books on Pattern Cutting Books on Heating and Ventilating Books on Mechanical Drawing If you want any technical book send to us, and if we do not have it in stock we will get it for you. AMONG THE BOOKS WE CARRY ARE: Plumbing, by John Smeaton. Price $3.00 Heating and Ventilating Buildings, by R. C. Carpenter. Price 3.00 Practical Hot Water Heating, Steam and Gas Fitting, by James J. Lawler. Price 2.00 American Plumbing, by Alfred Revill. Price 2.00 Warming and Ventilation, by ChaS. Tomlinson. Price 1.00 Hot Water Supply, by F. Dye. Price 1.00 House Drainage and Sanitary Plumbing, by Wm. Paul Gerhard, C. E. Price 50 Willett's Heating and Ventilation of Residences, by Jas. R. Willetts. Price 50 FOR SALE BY DANIEL STERN, 69 Dearborn St., Chicago. ~ ~ WfW They Save ruel That is the foundation of the great popularity of the Champion and Marqiiart STEEL RANGES THE BEST MADE, OWING TO THEIR DOUBLE FLUE CONSTRUCTION. It will pay you to control the best line of steel ranges, made in all styles and sizes, before your competitor gets the agency. Write now. CHAMPION STEEL RANGE CO, 251-257 Viaduct, Cleveland, Ohio. CHICAGO STOVE & RANGE CO., Chicago, Western Agents. LOFLAND& RUSSELL Books and Stationery -r-t-J M/ fi*h T_