!l E II- THE COMPLETE GARDEN BOOKS BY ALBERT D. TAYLOR PARTIAL LIST OF PLANTS AVAILABLE FOR VARIOUS USES IN GENERAL LANDSCAPE PLANTING STREET TREES: THEIR CARE AND PRESERVATION COMPLETE GARDEN, THE PLATE I. The scarlet thorns planted on both sides of the wall on either side of the gate make an excellent frame for this architectural detail at the garden entrance. (See Plate XXIV, page 158) THE COMPLETE GARDEN BY ALBERT D.TAYLOR, M.S. A. Fellow American Society of Landscape Architects Non-resident Professor Landscape Architecture in Ohio State University ASSISTED BY GORDON D. COOPER, B.S.A. Member American Society of Landscape Architects ILLUSTRATED WITH FIFTY FULL PAGE CUTS, FOUR LINE CHARTS, AND NINE COLOURED PLATES GARDEN CITY, N. Y., AND TORONTO DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 1921 MAIM DEFf. COPYRIGHT, 1921, BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN PRINTED AT GABDEN CTTY, N. Y. ; U. S. A. PREFACE REASONS FOR THIS BOOK. The author has for some time felt that there was needed in the landscape field, especially by the amateur gardener, a book of this type. He has believed that such a book would be of value to everyone who is interested in the important work of landscape plantings, not only to the amateur but to the expert gar- dener and to the property owner who has made an exhaustive study of plant uses and plant adaptations. One of the reasons for the publication of these planting lists for differ- ent purposes is that it provides a permanent record for future reference. There is no good reason why a landscape architect thoroughly familiar, as a result of years of experience, study, and observation, with the use of plants should devote his time and thought to the compilation of lists of plants for different purposes, such as wild gardens, spring gardens, rock gardens, and bog gardens in connection with some specific problem only to have each list of material cease to exist for the use of others, as soon as the work in question is completed. Plant lists compiled by capable landscape architects are too frequently used only for one problem, thus requiring the next man who starts to work upon a similar problem to begin his study, not where the other man left off, but at the same point where the other man began, duplicating work and wasting much time and energy. It is not meant to imply that all ornamental plants can be confined within definite standardized lists from which those who attempt to select plants for a specific purpose must choose. It is the author's sincere feeling that lists of plants compiled as the result of the different studies and investigations con- tinually being made, in connection with the landscape problems of many clients, may be accepted as a starting point or a reference beyond which a planter is at full liberty to go when he wishes to use species and varieties which are unusual and rare, or whenever the conditions of his specific problem require it. The responsibility for the original idea conceived as a basis for the development of this book may be traced to the author's experience in classroom work and in teaching. In this field of work, from a peda- 409660 vi PREFACE gogical standpoint, he has felt the need of a systematic classification, based upon the association of ideas which would aid in remembering and grouping plants. Through learning to know plants by their group associations a comprehensive knowledge of them may be gath- ered and retained with little effort. One of the easiest ways of memo- rizing is through the association of ideas. This is the fundamental principle upon which the information in the various groups is based. The same condition has been found in office work. Men with the greatest range of knowledge covering the identification of plants and the botanical classification of plants have found a smaller book of this kind indispensable as a ready reminder of the possibilities of plant uses, when working out planting designs. The first abridged edition of this book was published in 1916, primarily for the use of the author and a few of his friends in pro- fessional work. It was largely local in character. It has met with such a favourable reception, however, and so many requests have been received asking that a book of this kind be continued, and that the field be covered by comprehensive information, that this revised edition is the result. OBJECT or THIS BOOK. It is hoped that this book will serve as a ready reference to those who have no authoritative source of informa- tion, and whose limited opportunity and limited time for observation have not enabled them to become familiar with a wide range of materials, and to keep familiar with it. This information is not compiled for the purpose of taking the place of the services of a professional landscape architect, where the problem is of sufficient magnitude to justify his employment. This book will assist those who, having no available sources of reliable information at hand, -are prone to accept the advice of "landscape quacks" and self-styled landscape architects with little training. The question is often asked, "What plants can I use for a specific purpose?" This is asked by both professional landscape architects and by owners of properties. This book will place at the disposal of such persons a list of plants from which species and varieties may be selected advisedly. The discussion does not by any means represent a complete study of this subject. It will take years of checking, verification, and criticism, before a compact compilation of this material can be put into PREFACE vii final shape which will be valuable as a reference in all sections of the country, where plants other than tropical are used for landscape effects. The correct selection of plants for various purposes in landscape work is but a part of the success of landscape plantings. One should know not only the correct use of plants as indicated in these lists, but their landscape value from the standpoint of their adaptation to design and composition, as well as how to plant and to maintain them. For those unfamiliar with plant materials the information in this book should be supplemented with additional information which may be easily procured from descriptions in nursery catalogues, encyclopedias, and garden books. THE ESSENTIAL CHARACTER OF THE BOOK. The main idea behind this method of compiling information for the use of those interested in landscape plantings is that of providing a compact reference manual from which fundamental information can be easily obtained. In reality it is more in the form of a "landscape dictionary." The chapters which have been introduced into this volume are a series of summarized fundamental principles with reference to the respective chapter headings, and they are not in the form of many magazine articles, so compiled as to be interesting to many persons who really read the articles, not always because of the facts in them, but because of the camouflaged outlines. THE SYSTEM OF NOMENCLATURE. In the compilation of the plant lists, and generally throughout the text of the book, an earnest effort has been made to conform to the recommendations of the American Joint Committee on Horticultural Nomenclature as adopted and published in the 1917 official code of standardized plant names. The two new rulings of this committee regarding botanical names also have been adopted. These rulings are that all botanical names except the generic name shall begin with a lower case letter and not with a capital letter; and second, that in the case of all specific names hereto- fore ending in a double "i" one of these "i's" shall be dropped. Thus Berberis Thunbergii will become Berberis ihunbergi. Since this code fails to cover many horticultural varieties of plants it has sometimes seemed wiser to follow the nomenclature of Bailey's Standard Cyclo- pedia of American Horticulture, especially in the case of garden forms of plants. An effort has been made to find the most generally accepted VI 11 PREFACE common name for each plant; or, where none was available, to invent a common name which would be descriptive of the plant and helpful in fixing its valuable characteristics in mind. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. For notes on the behaviour of the newer introductions and for valuable assistance in the checking of the plant lists the author is indebted to M. H. Horvath, Landscape Architect, Cleveland, Ohio, and to Henry Kohankie, Nurseryman, Painesville, Ohio, both of whom have done important work in the introduction and testing of many sorts of plants. For many valuable observations on the behaviour, hardiness, and adaptability of ornamental plants in their respective sections of the country the author is indebted to Charles H. Ramsdell, Landscape Architect, and Phelps Wyman, Landscape Architect, of Minneapolis, Minnesota, and to A. M. Hill, Nurseryman, of Dundee, Illinois. In addition the author is indebted : For lists of plants adapted to the South Atlantic States, to Charles F. Gillette, Landscape Architect, Richmond, Virginia, and to Earle Draper, Landscape Architect, Charlotte, North Carolina; and for lists of plants adapted to the Oregon and Washington Coastal Plain to Professor Arthur L. Peck of the Oregon State Agricultural College at Corvallis, Oregon. For lists of plants and much information concerning planting and seeding methods in Florida the author is indebted to E. N. Reasoner, Nurseryman, Oneco, Florida; H. H. Hume, Nurseryman, Glen St. Mary's, Florida, and C. L. Whipp, Florist, Jacksonville, Florida. For much valuable information about the preparation of lawns and golf course fairways and greens in Florida the author is indebted to O. B. Roche, Superintendent of the Palm Beach Golf Course, Palm Beach, Florida, and to J. R. Van Kleek, Sebring, Florida. For numerous practical suggestions covering landscape uses and notes on the propagation and maintenance of all sorts of ornamental plants the writer thanks George Jacques, Superintendent of "Gwinn," Bratenahl Village, Ohio; J. R. Brydon, Superintendent of "Glen Allen," Cleveland, Ohio, and E. 0. Orpet, formerly Superintendent at "Walden," Lake Forest, Illinois. For unselfish devotion to the oftentimes uninteresting work of copy reading, checking, and indexing, without which this work would never have been completed, much credit is due to the following members of the author's office staff: Gordon D. Cooper, W. Hoxie Hillary, Lucie L. PREFACE ix French, Eleanor Hills Christie, J. R. Van Kleek, E. H. Trout, Frank B. Meyer, and Anne C. Thompson. For many of the illustrations in this book the author is indebted to the following persons: Mattie Edwards Hewitt for plates Nos. 12, 21, 26, 44, and 48; The D. Hill Nursery Company for plate No. 17; Mary E. Eaton for plates Nos. 31, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39, 46, and 49; Mr. and Mrs. F. F. Prentiss for plates Nos. n, 20, 47, 52, 53, and 60; Mr. W. G. Mather for plates Nos. i, 15, 24, 27, and 28; J. Horace McFarland Company for plates Nos. 18, 22, 23, 30, 32, 37, 40, 41, 43, 56, 57, and 58; Woodlawn Cemetery Association for plate No. 42 ; The Wm. H. Moon Company for plate No. 7; Nathan R. Graves Company for plate No. 33; Mr. and Mrs. W. A. Thomas for plate No. 51; Mr. and Mrs. Charles F. Lang for plates Nos. 45 and 54; Mr. and Mrs. Charles Reed for plate No. 19. FUTURE COOPERATION INVITED. Corrections and criticisms will be always welcomed by the author, and this volume will be enlarged and corrected as conditions justify. ALBERT D. TAYLOR. Prospect and Forty-sixth Streets? Cleveland, Ohio. August i, 1920. CONTENTS PREFACE v PART I GENERAL PLANTING SUGGESTIONS CHAPTER PAGB I. Introduction 3 II. Planting and Seeding Seasons 8 III. Pruning 18 IV. Planting and Transplanting 29 V. Lawns 5 2 VI. Bulb Culture 65 VII. Maintenance 73 VIII. Winter Protection and Mulching 100 PART II LISTS FOR REFERENCE IX. Evergreens IO 9 A Most hardy ;. IIJ B Best adapted for use in mid-west 112 C Not adapted for use in mid-west 113 D Adapted to partial shade in wooded areas . . 113 E Low-growing, formal types 114 X. Street and Avenue Planting US A Trees which are entirely hardy under all condi- tions Il & B Trees which should be selected with a thorough knowledge of the conditions under which they are to be used 11 7 C Trees which should never be used on streets. . 117 XL Plants for Use in Congested City Districts . . 118 A Trees "9 B Shrubs 120 xi xii CONTENTS CHAPTER VAG9 XII. Plants for Hedges 121 A Barriers 123 a. Holding leaves during winter . 123 b. Not holding leaves during winter . . . . 124 B Edgings for walks and for garden borders. . . 124 C Windbreaks and solid screens 125 D Privacy 125 E Hedges for bleak exposures 126 a. Late foliage 126 b. Close shearing 126 c. Unsheared low hedges 126 d. Fruiting hedges 126 e. Shady places 126 XIII. Plants for Border Planting 127 A Masses for refined lawn areas 128 a. Low-growing shrubs 128 b. Medium-growing shrubs . . 129 c. Tall-growing shrubs . 129 B Masses consisting mostly of native collected shrubs 130 a. Low-growing shrubs 130 b. Medium-growing shrubs 130 c. Tall-growing shrubs 131 XIV. Accent and Specimen Trees and Shrubs 132 A Trees 133 a. Accent and specimen trees 133 b. Columnar and pyramidal trees 134 B Shrubs 135 XV. Plants Valuable for Use in Rock Gardens, in Japanese Gardens, and in Wall Crevices 136 A Evergreens 138 B Deciduous trees and shrubs . 139 C Perennials 139 XVI. Plants for Heavy, Formal Effects 141 A Border planting 144 B Topiary work and close shearing 145 a. Evergreen 145 b. Deciduous 145 C Growing in tubs 146 CONTENTS xiii TIR PACB D Trees and shrubs for allees . . . . . . 146 a. Pleached . . . 146 b. Not pleached (open allees) ...... 147 1. Deciduous 147 2. Evergreen 147 XVII. Plants for Natural, Informal Effects 148 XVIII. Low-Growing Plants Along the Inner Side of Curving Roadways and at Entrances . . .... . . 150 A Evergreen . . . . . . , . . ... . . 151 B Deciduous < . . . . > . . . . . . 151 XIX. Trees and Shrubs for Different Flowering Effects . . . 152 A Producing flowers in early spring before leaves appear . . 154 B Producing flowers in early spring after leaves appear. 154 C Producing flowers during early summer . . . 155 D Producing flowers during late summer and early afctumn : ... '.. 156 E Producing flowers in shades of red and pink . . 156 a. Early-flowering sorts 157 b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts . . . 157 F Producing yellow flowers 157 a. Early-flowering sorts . . 157 b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts . . . 158 G Producing white flowers v . . , . ' ... . . 158 a. Early-flowering sorts . . ..... . 158 b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts . . . 158 H Producing blue flowers 159 I Continuous bloom from twelve shrubs . . . . 159 XX. Plants Valuable for the Characteristics of Their Fruit . . 160 A Producing fruit of peculiarly interesting form or size 161 B Producing fruit valuable for its colour effects. . 162 C Producing fruit valuable during the winter months 163 D Producing fruit valuable for attracting birds . . 164 a. Fruiting in summer 165 b. Holding fruit into the winter months . . . 166 c. Birds attracted by fruits . . ... . . 166 E Producing fruit which attracts birds away from other fruits 167 F Producing fruit which often makes the plant unde- sirable in landscape planting 167 xiv CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE XXI. Trees and Shrubs Bearing Coloured Twigs . . . -, - . 168 XXII. Plants Valuable Because of the Autumn Colouration of the Leaves . . I 7 I A Early 173 B Medium . 173 C Late . 173 a. Coloured foliage 174 b. Green foliage 174 XXIII. Fast-Growing Types Valuable for Producing Screen Effects 176 A Trees 177 B Shrubs 177 XXIV. Plants Adapted to Various Types of Soil Conditions . . 178 A Boggy and peaty soils 179 a. Boggy situations 180 b. Peaty situations 181 B Light, sandy soils 181 a. Trees 181 b. Shrubs 181 c. Vines 182 C Heavy types of soils 182 a. Trees 182 * b. Shrubs 182 c. Vines , 183 D Trees tolerant of alkali soils 183 E Drought-resisting plants 183 XXV. Plants for Exposed Lake Front and River Conditions . . 185 A Trees 186 B Shrubs 187 C Vines . . . ' 187 XXVI. Trees and Shrubs for Seaside Planting 188 A Plants hardy under the severe exposure of the North Atlantic Coast 189 a. Deciduous trees 189 b. Conifers 190 c. Shrubs 190 B Plants hardy in the less severe seaside exposures. 190 a. Deciduous trees 191 b. Conifers 191 c. Shrubs 191 XXVII. Plants for Partially Shaded Locations 192 CONTENTS xv lArTER PAGE XXVIII. Plants for Undergrowth Planting in Wooded Areas . . 194 A Shrubs and small trees 196 B Ground-cover plants 197 XXIX. Plants for Ground Cover 199 A Moist locations 203 B Dry locations ..;.... 204 C Shady locations . . . ...... . . 205 D Ferns ...... 205 a. Dry, shady places .......... 206 b. Moist, shady places 206 E Embankments and rocky slopes 206 a. Shrubs 206 b. Perennials . ..;. .... . . . 207 c. Vines . , . : . , , * ; . * ... . . 207 F Small-flowering and foliage plants for crevices be- tween stepping-stones and for paved terrace areas 208 G Perennials adapted to open sunny exposures . . 208 H Ground cover among rhododendrons and azaleas. 209 I Ground cover among roses . -.. . .... 210 XXX. Game Cover Plants . . ' ; ''. . . ; . . . . 211 A Foliage, buds, and blossoms (Spring cover) . . 212 B Nuts or seeds (Autumn cover) . .. . .-. 212 XXXI. Perennials for Different Purposes . . n . . . .214 A Hardy perennials for general use . . . .. . . 221 B Perennials according to colour and season . . . 222 a. Perennials for spring purple, lavender, or blue flowers 222 b. Perennials for spring white flowers .... 222 c. Perennials for spring pink to crimson flowers . 223 d. Perennials for spring yellow to orange flowers . 223 e. Perennials for summer purple, lavender, or blue flowers 224 f. Perennials for summer white flowers . . . 224 g. Perennials for summer pink to crimson flowers 225 h. Perennials for summer yellow to orange flowers 225 i. Perennials for autumn purple, lavender, or blue flowers 226 j. Perennials for autumn white flowers . . . 226 k. Perennials for autumn pink to crimson flowers 226 1. Perennials for autumn yellow to orange flowers 227 xvi CONTENTS CHAPTER RUM C Perennials for naturalizing in wild garden areas . 227 a. Tall types . . . . . ... . . 227 b. Low types 228 D Perennials for long flowering period .... 228 E Perennials seldom used in small, refined, formal gardens 229 F Perennials to supply " perpetual bloom "... 230 G Perennials for use among peonies 230 H Perennials for good blooming combinations . . 231 I Perennials valuable for cut flowers 232 J Perennials which should be treated as biennials . 233 K Perennials to be transplanted frequently. . . 233 a. To be divided every two years 233 b. To be divided every three years 233 c. To be divided each year . . . . . . . 234 L Perennials for water planting 234 a. Deep water 234 b. Shallow water 234 c. Land at the water-side 234 M Perennials for planting against the shrub border 235 N Perennials for attracting humming birds . . . 236 XXXII. Annuals 237 A Annuals especially valuable for cut flowers . . 239 B Annuals to be sown for ground cover .... 240 C Annuals which are difficult to transplant success- fully 241 D Annuals which should be planted in several sow- ings to insure a succession of bloom . . . .241 E Annuals to be started indoors in order to produce good bloom before frost 242 F Annual vines . 242 a. Delicate foliage 242 b. Heavy foliage 242 G Annuals for carpet bedding 243 H Annuals for design bedding 245 XXXIII. Horticultural Varieties, Select List of 247 A Lilacs 249 B Peonies 250 C Small flowering trees 250 CONTENTS xvit IAPTEB PAO D Roses 251 a. Best climbing roses 251 b. Hardiest garden roses . . . . . . . . 251 1. Hybrid perpetual, crimson and red . . . 251 2. Hybrid perpetual, pink . ,,..'. . . . . 251 3. Hybrid perpetual, white . ... . . . 251 4. Yellow . . . 25 1 5. Moss 251 c. Best hybrid tea roses 251 E Broad-leaved evergreens 252 a. Rhododendrons and azaleas 252 b. Other broad-leaved evergreens 252 F Lilies . . . , . . ^ 253 a. List of lilies . ....,.,. 253 b. Easy culture in garden soil 256 c. Moist and boggy locations 256 d. Calcareous soil 257 e. Open sun . 257 f. Undergrowth. . 257 g. Sandy or dry soils 257 h. Clay soil 257 i. Shady locations 257 XXXIV. Vines . 258 A Flowering ... . . . . ... . . . 260 B Use on brick, stone, and masonry 260 C Climbing habit and heavy foliage 260 D Fruiting - . . . . 261 E Fast-growing ~~~. 261 XXXV. Window Boxes and Hanging Baskets 262 A Window boxes 264 a. South or west exposure 264 b. East exposure 264 c. North exposure . 265 B Hanging baskets 265 a. Vine-like habit . . 265 b. Upright habit and good flowers 266 c. Upright habit and good foliage 266 XXXVI. Bulbs . . . 267 A Refined lawn and garden areas . . . . . 270 B Naturalizing in woodland and wild gardens . . 270 C Narcissi for different locations . . ... . . 271 xviii CONTENTS CHAPTER PAG" D Tulip combinations . . . ...... 271 a. Single . 271 b. Double 272 c. Cottage . ....-. 272 d. Darwin 272 E Best varieties for forcing 273 a. Forcing in soil 273 b. Forcing in water 274 XXXVII. Fragrant Plants 275 A Fragrant flowers 275 a. Shrubs 275 b. Trees 276 c. Perennials 276 B Fragrant leaves 277 a. Trees and shrubs 277 b. Perennials 277 XXXVIII. Poisonous Plants 278 A Internally poisonous 279 B Skin irritants 280 C Causing hay fever "^ ~ 280 XXXIX. Ornamental Plants Subject to Disease and Insect Pests . 282 XL. Plants Difficult to Transplant and Those Adapted for Transplanting at Specific Seasons of the Year . . . 286 A Plants which should be transplanted in autumn . 289 B Plants which should be transplanted in spring . 289 C Plants which are transplanted with little success . 290 a. Plants to be rarely if ever transplanted . . . 290 b. Plants which recover slowly from the operation of transplanting 290 XLI. Shrubs for Forcing in Water in Early Spring .... 292 XLII. Pruning Lists 294 A Shrubs needing complete pruning 296 a. Spring and early summer flowering . . . . 296 b. Late summer and fall flowering . ... . 297 B Shrubs needing removal of old wood only. . . 297 a. Summer pruning . . . . ". . . . . 297 b. Winter pruning 297 C Trees which require little or no pruning . . . 298 D Evergreens that should be pruned in May orjune 298 E Evergreens that may be pruned at any time. . 298 CONTENTS xix TBR PAGE XLIII. Plants for Florida . . . , . 299 A Windbreaks . . . 300 B Trees for street and specimen planting . . . 301 a. Northern list . . . ..-.. .*. v. .. . . . 301 b. Southern list. . , . * 301 C Vines . . . . . . . * 302 a. Lattices and wire fences . .... . . 302 b. Masonry walls 303 D Shrubs with attractive fruit 303 E Hedges .... . 304 a. Middle and southern Florida 305 b. Northern Florida 305 F Flowering shrubs for middle and southern Florida 305 a. White flowers 305 b. Pink flowers 306 c. Yellow flowers 306 d. Red flowers 307 e. Purple and blue flowers 307 G Ground-cover plants 307 H Shrubs for shady conditions 308 I Herbaceous plants 308 J Plants for seashore planting 3 10 a. Trees 310 b. Shrubs 310 c. Vines 311 XLIV. Plants for Minnesota 312 A Hedges ...... 313 a. Barriers 313 b. Windbreaks * . 313 B Ground cover .%} 313 a. Shrubs 313 b. Vines 314 C Plants valuable for autumn colouration of leaves. 3 14 a. Early 314 b. Medium 314 D Heavy, formal effects . . * :. . . * 314 E Street trees . / . . . ; 315 a. Entirely hardy under all conditions . . . .315 b. Which should be selected with a thorough knowl- edge of the conditions under which they are to be used v ; ;'.; . . ' x,,, i . . ,. . 315 xx CONTENTS F Evergreens most used . ....... 315 G Not hardy in Minnesota ........ 316 XLV. Plants for South Atlantic States ........ 318 A Ground cover ... ....... .319 a. Moist places .......... 319 b. Dry places ........... 319 B Hedges ....... ...... 320 a. Holding leaves throughout winter ..... 320 b. Not holding leaves throughout winter . . . 321 C Trees for street planting ........ 321 D Evergreens most used ........ 322 E Formal effects ........... 322 F Border planting ........... 323 a. Low-growing deciduous shrubs ..... 323 b. Low-growing evergreen shrubs ..... 324 c. Medium-growing deciduous shrubs .... 325 d. Medium-growing evergreen shrubs . . . .326 G Fruit valuable for its colour effects ..... 327 H Specimen trees and shrubs ....... 327 a. Trees ........... - . 327 b. Shrubs ........ .... 329 I Perennials for gardens and cut flowers . . . .329 J Perennials for naturalizing in wild gardens . . 330 K Plants which are commonly and freely used in the south but are not hardy farther north . . . . 331 a. Trees ............. 331 b. Shrubs ............ 332 L Vines for the south ......... 332 XL VI. Plants for Use on the Oregon and Washington Coastal Plain .............. 334 A Hedges ............. 335 a. Deciduous ........... 335 b. Evergreen ........... 335 B Plants for ground cover ........ 335 a. Open sun ............ 336 b. Shade ............. 336 C Plants for border planting ....... 336 a. Refined lawn masses ....... 337 b. Native and collected plants ...... 337 D Street and avenue planting ....... 337 E Plants for heavily shaded locations .... 337 CONTENTS xxi PAGE F Plants valuable for autumn colouration of leaves 338 G Vines . . . 338 H Evergreens most used 339 a. Conifers . . . . . .-' 339 b. Broad-leaved . . . . 339 Bibliography 343 Glossary. 355 Index 378 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PLATB PAGE I. The scarlet thorns planted on both sides of the wall on either side of the gate make an excellent frame for this architectural detail at the garden entrance . . . , Frontispiece II. This map shows those portions of the United States which because of climatic environment and geographic location possess similar planting seasons. Investigation of zones of similar planting seasons has, to date, not provided complete information to the landscape architect in his Planting work. For supplementary information refer to Plate No. II on Page 14. (In colour) 6 III. A chart to aid in determining the most favourable period for transplanting, and for seeding of lawns in various sections of the United States. Note the long winter periods of the Northern Zones and the continuous planting seasons of the Southern Zones. It is of great importance to be able to plan ahead and to order plants for delivery at the proper time for any section of the country. These are average seasons resulting from observations of normal seasons during a period of years. For supple- mentary information refer to Plate No. II on Page 6 ...... 14 IV. The hedge which may look unkept and ragged if not pruned will in the hands of the skilled gardener assume almost any degree of refined out- line. These photographs show one of our most desirable hedge plants, the Japanese privet (Ligustrum ibota) ...,,.. 20 V. The correct pruning of trees and shrubs is a great factor in the successful maintenance of landscape plantings. These diagrammatic drawings together with the explanations on the opposite page illustrate correct and incorrect methods of pruning 24 VI. A knowledge of the various operations involved in the work of correctly transplanting plants is essential for their subsequent normal develop- ment. These diagrammatic drawings accompanied by the explanation on the opposite page illustrate various transplanting operations. . . 34 VII. Immediately after transplanting, the trunk of every large tree should.be protected with a covering of burlap (Fig. B) which prevents excessive drying out and consequent cracking and loosening of the bark (Fig. A). This protection is especially necessary during the warmer summer months 40 VIII. To most of us in the northern states the method of seeding a lawn is familiar, but the method of making lawns in southern states by planting Bermuda grass is little known. In these photographs small clumps of Bermuda grass are being planted in "hills" staggered at intervals ranging from eighteen inches to thirty inches. The thicker the planting the more quickly a mat of turf can be developed 41 XXIV LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PLATE IX. X. XL XII. XIII. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. XIX. It is important to know the depth, distance apart, and time of the year at which different kinds of bulbs should be planted. Many disappoint- ing flower effects are the result of violating these rules with reference to depth, distance apart, and time of planting ........ 46 Trees are given winter protection both against injury from sun-scald and against injury from severe wind and changing temperature condi- tions. This photograph shows one method of protecting hemlocks against the sun's rays 62 The list of evergreens adapted to soil and to climatic conditions of the middle west, and valuable for low, refined mass plantings is limited. The upper photograph shows an effect produced by the use of dwarf yew, Pfitzer's and tamarisk-leaved junipers, Mugho pines and Japanese spurge edging. The lower photograph shows the effectiveness of masses of low, refined evergreens against massive architecture 63 Under climatic and soil conditions favourable to their growth evergreens will produce a landscape picture incapable of reproduction through the use of deciduous plants. This photograph shows an effective use, under Long Island conditions, of arborvitae, red cedars, junipers, rhododen- dron, and yews as a background for a refined, formal pool .... 78 Carefully selected and planted trees for avenue and street planting provide a uniform and a symmetrical effect together with the inviting shade, all of which are so essential to the standards of modern residential districts ; -. 79 The list of trees and shrubs which thrive in the congested city districts where soil conditions are poor and the air is polluted with smoke and dust is limited to a few kinds, of which the tree of heaven, locust, and catalpa are typical 94 An interesting use of hedges to frame one side of the refined formal garden. Japanese quince on the left side of the walk. Japanese bar- erry against the right side accented with sheared retinosporas, and buttresses of Japanese quince and Amoor River privet on the extreme left against the vine-covered wall, form the features of this compo- sition 95 Plume-like cypress, naturally a small tree, can be maintained as a com- pact and a very formal low hedge if given plenty of skillful pruning and protection in winter no The Canadian hemlock, when grown from the northern seed and when well established, forms one of the best windbreaks and barriers for the protection of the garden or orchard wherever drifting snow must be over- come and seclusion also attained no Upon a spacious lawn effective use can occasionally be made of trees and shrubs possessing symmetrical habits of growths and fine flowering and fruiting qualities. The deutzia is a shrub with these capabilities, but it is seldom seen as a specimen plant. Restraint, however, must be observed and a dotted effect avoided I IO The extended lawn area often requires specimen trees to lend scale and colour to the picture, and it also offers opportunity to display the natural beauty of many of our fine specimen trees in LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXV XX. An effective combination of stone work and of plantings in an informal lawn area. Varieties of stonecrop, moss pinks, and Scotch pinks lend charm to an otherwise uninteresting mass of stone. (See Plate No. LIH, Page 334, for lily planting shown in background of this picture.) 126 XXI. An uninteresting rocky slope often can be turned into an attractive landscape feature through the careful selection and planting of plants adapted to light, sandy soils. This slope is covered with a grouping of hardy pinks, evergreen candytuft, saxifrage, and tufted pansy . 127 XXII. To develop a successful rock garden, not only must the stones be well placed, but the plants must be selected to produce an effect in keeping with the scale of the garden; otherwise the effect will be that of a collection of stones which overpower the garden picture, as shown above 142 XXIII. To few of us does the term "wall garden" convey a definite im- pression. Yet how frequently the opportunity comes, even in a small way, to change a wall of rock to a wall of flowers and foliage. In this photograph we see Scotch pinks, creeping phlox, golden tuft, tunica, and other similar plants used to excellent advantage . . 143 XXIV. An interior view of a pleached allee eight years after transplanting. Note the spacing of the larger plants of the European cork maple at intervals of three feet, with "fillers" between each two of the larger trees. Compare with Plate No. XXVII on Page 175 for the ex- terior view. Openings have been cut in the top of this allee to pro- duce interesting spots of sunlight on the walk 158 XXV. An excellent illustration of pleasing garden formality filled with box- wood hedges, as edgings for carpet plantings of Japanese spurge, and accented with specimens of California privet neatly trimmed in a pyramidal form to represent boxwood 159 XXVI. The use of bay trees in tubs is required in many of the northern gar- dens to produce accent points often at spots where no permanent plant can be planted in the ground. These trees are stored in cool green- houses during the winter months 174 XXVII. A pleached allee may form jiot only a most interesting feature as XXVIII. shown on Plate No. XXIV, Page 158, but this one serves as a solid screen between the lawn area and the service buildings .... 175 This open allee is framed on either side by a solid row of closely sheared thorn trees. Its formal lines are softened by the row of pink- flowering dogwoods which add a charm of flowers in early spring and of fruit in the late fall. Thorns planted four to five feet apart and dogwoods eight feet apart. Width between rows of thorns twenty- two feet and between rows of dogwoods nine to ten feet. (See ex- planation of measurementsxm Page 144) 190 XXIX. An open allee twelve feet wide and eight hundred feet long, developed by the use of white birch planted three to four feet apart in each row. For a permanent allee of this type the birch is not ideal because of its short-lived characteristics and susceptibility to borer. Thorns or the European beech would be preferable . 191 XXX. A group of Japanese snowball, producing flowers in spring soon after the leaves appear, adds much to the attractiveness of a landscape picture . . ..... . ; i. . ; ^ :, .- v i v . , . . . . 206 XXVI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PLATE XXXI. It is quite important in the planting of the spring garden that the designer should know those shrubs which produce flowers before the leaves appear, similar to the Carolina azalea (B), and those early-flowering shrubs which produce flowers and leaves at the same time, similar to the bladder-nut (A). (In colour) . . . . . 214 XXXII. In the permanent planting no flowering tree or shrub deserves more favourable consideration than the fine type of Scheidecker's semi- double rose-flowering crab illustrated above 222 XXXIII. As a specimen flowering plant for early spring effect the Japanese weeping rose-flowered cherry is extremely interesting, covered always before the leaves appear with an abundance of rose-pink flowers 223 XXXIV. It is a source of much satisfaction to the plant designer to know that shrubs which are carefully selected for the colour of their flowers may produce very effective colour combinations. This plate shows the St. John's wort (A) in combination with the sweet- scented buddleia (B). (In colour) 230 XXXV. The average person who has not become interested in the colour effects produced by the fruits of our common trees and shrubs can hardly appreciate the intense colour display of the American bitter- sweet (A), the Washington thorn (B), and the white fringe (C). (In colour.) 230 XXXVI. The garden designer must always bear in mind that many of our shrubs which produce very uninteresting flowers are the ones which produce our most attractive fruiting effects. The variation in colours of the fruits ranges from the pure white of the snowberry (A) through the purple and porcelain blue of the beauty fruit (C) to the vivid reds of which the Japanese bush cranberry (B) is typical. (In colour) 230 XXXVII. Not only because of the interesting colour of its fruit in combination with the fruit of other shrubs, but because of the size and abundance of its fruit, the snowberry is one of our conspicuous and valuable shrubs ..... 238 XXXVIII. During the winter months when there is little else in the shrub border to attract attention, the vivid colours of the twigs of many of our shrubs present interesting spots of colour against the back- ground of evergreens or snow. (A) red-twigged dogwood; (B) green-stemmed dogwood; (C) red birch; (D) golden-twigged osier; (E) grey dogwood; (F) striped maple. (In colour) . 246 XXXIX. What is more beautiful in the landscape than the intensely brilliant colours of the autumn foliage of many of our trees and shrubs? More plants should be used for the value of their autumn foliage effect. (A) burning bush; (B) dark green golden bell; (C) maple-leaved viburnum; (D) sassafras; (E) maidenhair tree; (F) sourwood. (In colour) .,".',. . . 247 XL. In solving the difficult planting problems on exposed lake fronts and river fronts there is no plant in the limited list of adaptable types to excel the beach-plum 254 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXVll PLAT1 PAG1 XLI. The problem of developing desirable undergrowth plantings in wooded areas requires much study of plants as nature places them. The rhododendron, except in exposed locations, is "happy" in wood- land areas where soil conditions meet the root requirements . . . 255 XL1I. In open sunny exposures on sandy or light loam soil there is no ground cover which surpasses the Japanese spurge in richness of colour or interesting texture of foliage, especially in combination with plantings of evergreens 270 XLIII. Our garden steps can be made a part of the flower garden, and not the usual cold and uninviting mass of stone or brick, by a well- designed grouping of plants adapted for growth in the earth crevices among the rocks. Note the use of candytuft, ground phlox, moss pinks, varieties of stonecrops, and rock cress 271 XLIV. The large garden filled with perennials usually consists of larger groups of flowering perennials which produce masses of colour during their period of bloom. Iris, phlox, hollyhocks, gladioli, larkspur, and anemone produce the more important flower effects in this garden 286 XLV. A cut-flower garden; the central part filled with annuals and the outer border of perennials serving as a frame with shrubs in the extreme background. A garden of this kind can have a succession of bloom throughout the flowering season 287 XLVI. Many of our common garden perennials possess the possibilities to produce very interesting colour effects through the colour combina- tions of the flowers. (A) Italian alkanet; (B) hardy marguerite. (In colour) 294 XL VII. During the early spring no woodland wild garden is complete without its quota of trilliums, grape hyacinth, and hepatica which grow lux- uriantly if happily surrounded by conditions of soil and shade . . 302 XLVIII. Among those plants which become easily established in the wild garden there is none the flower effect of which excels the Japanese windflower during the late summer . . . 303 XLIX. In the selection of perennials for the garden not only should the possibilities of interesting colour combinations in the flower effects be observed, but also the possibilities for interesting texture of foliage. (A) larkspur; (B) lemon lily (commonly called day lily). (In colour) 310 L. A few water-lilies may enhance a picture such as the above, but a proper restraint in their use and control is always desirable . . . 318 LI. The artificial lake or pond may receive a natural effect if the banks near the water's edge are planted with groups of water-loving plants. In this picture one sees the marsh-mallow, day-lily, iris, plantain- lily, loosestrife, plume grass, and showy sedum successfully used. . 319 LII. There are those who much prefer to develop their formal flower garden picture entirely by the use of annuals. This garden which is not for a source of cut flowers is filled with heliotrope, yellow tulip poppy, snapdragon, pentstemon, annual carnation, candytuft, and others not recognizable from this picture 334 XXV111 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PLATE LIII. LIV. LV. LVI. LVII. LVIII. LIX. LX. LXI. LXII. LXIII. An informal planting of Scotch pines and Mugho pines may be ac- cented by the use of a few specimens of lilies to brighten the landscape picture as well as to serve as a background for the flowering effect of the lilies 334 The knotweed is not only one of the most rapid-growing vines, but its abundance of delicate white flowers and its long-blooming period make it valuable for many locations on the lattice framework. A First summer after transplanting; B Second summer after trans- planting 334 One of the best vines for use on masonry walls is the Boston ivy, but no vine should be allowed to overpower fine architectural details. This illustration also shows a perfectly developed European beech hedge (ten years old) planted in a single row with plants eighteen inches apart 335 A pleasing combination of the vigorous climbing wisteria used to- gether with window boxes filled with periwinkle to relieve the heavy and otherwise bare architectural effect 350 Nasturtiums, marigolds, English ivy, periwinkle, and petunias make a window box foliage and flower effect which adds greatly to the attrac- tiveness of any home 350 During the months of April and May the flower garden filled with refined types of tulips carefully arranged to produce masses of colour is the equal of the garden at any other month of the growing season. This garden is filled with the tall types of Darwin tulips. . . . 350 With the first touch of spring the crocus begins to bloom upon the lawn. This plant can adapt itself either to the refined lawn area or to the woodland and field areas >, . . . 351 There is always an opportunity, on every larger estate, for the natural- izing of bulbs. Poet's narcissus is quite happy in a wild garden or field environment 366 Throughout the southern states the creeping fig is one of the most desirable vines for growth on masonry walls. It develops interesting foliage of a fine texture and is a vigorous grower and compares favour- ably with the Lowe's Boston ivy so successfully used in the northern states 367 Used as a tree for screen effects, specimen planting, or hedges, the Australian pine is throughout southern Florida one of the most freely used plants 374 The yellow allamanda desirable because of its heavy foliage, and be- cause of its beautiful yellow flowers, is frequently neglected for use in Florida plantings as a shrub or a vine 375 PART I GENERAL PLANTING SUGGESTIONS THE COMPLETE GARDEN CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION THE METHOD OF TREATMENT. The lists of plants do not represent a complete and thoroughly exhaustive study of the subject. The general discussions and groupings will provide persons interested in the use of plant materials with essential facts, in a compact form, con- cerning the appropriate use of the more permanent species of trees, shrubs, vines, perennials, annuals, and bulbs. The study of plants and their specific uses in landscape planting can to some extent be analyzed and tabulated for reference purposes in the same way that plants are grouped for purposes of identification. This study, however, is not based entirely upon scientific facts, and therefore is subject to personal points of view, and many times no hard and fast line can be drawn which will place any one plant in one list in preference to the possibility of placing it in some other list. THE ARRANGEMENT OF THE MATERIAL. At the beginning of each main group, and at the beginning of each sub-heading under the main groups, there is a short discussion of the fundamental principles governing that particular type of classification of plants for landscape uses. This discussion will be of some assistance by way of enabling the reader properly to consult the lists contained under these headings. A number of chapters are included in this discussion, devoted to the following subjects: Pruning, Planting Seasons, Planting and Trans- planting, Maintenance, Winter Protection and Mulching, Lawns, Selection and Planting of Bulbs. The author feels that there should be in a book of this kind a concise statement of the fundamental prin- ciples which govern work in this field of Landscape Plantings. These chapters are in no way a complete discussion of these subjects. They are more in the form of instructions and specifications which will serve 3 4 : rm COMPLETE GARDEN as a guide in the right direction. For further and more complete information on these subjects reference should be made to the Bibli- ography (Pages 343 to 351), both of articles and of books, contained in the Appendix to this volume. The author has compiled a bibliography of articles and books which are of distinct value to the reader. But there are many other articles and books, of great interest and value to readers, some of which probably have escaped the author's attention and should be included in this list. This list will be revised from time to time. THE USE OF THE INDEX. This book is indexed very completely and in detail and has a reference both to pages and to groups. The reader will note that the book has been paged in the usual manner, and also that on each page the groups have been alphabetically ar- ranged for the purpose of making it more easy to consult information as referred to by the Table of Contents and by the Group Index. As a matter of fact, this Index is almost equally as valuable as the complete list of plants under each of the various groups. By means of this Index the student who is familiar with some plant and wishes to find a proper use for it can readily ascertain the use or uses to which the plant is adapted. THE PURPOSE OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS. A number of photographs and drawings have been introduced throughout this volume. These photographs are illustrative of various group ideas covering uses of plants. Words, however carefully selected, often cannot be a literal interpretation of an idea, whereas a photograph immediately conveys the definite idea which cannot be reproduced in words. These il- lustrations have been selected, so far as possible, to illustrate the main features which justify the making of an individual group for reference purposes. It is hoped that they may for that reason prove to be of great value. METHOD OF USING THE BOOK. Theoretically, a treatise on any sub- ject should be so simplified that to the average reader the method of using it is self-evident. However, a few suggestions covering the methods of consulting the information in this volume may not be amiss. The Table of Contents, which is a complete compilation of all the general information in this volume, is arranged with INTRODUCTION 5 many larger and more important headings to include the many minor headings. It is here that the reader can easily find reference to lists of plants which are valuable for specific uses by exactly the inverse process that he can find from the Index a reference to the different purposes for which an individual plant may be used. To the reader who is seeking to find a list of plants which can be used for a specific purpose, first, the Table of Contents and the List of Illustrations are of direct and primary value. To the reader who is seeking to find for what specific uses any plant may be adapted, secondly, the Index to pages and groups of plants is of greatest importance. To the reader who wishes to go farther into the subject of plant study, as covered by various phases of landscape work, thirdly, the Bibliography is the one reference which will be of value. The complete glossary containing a complete list of definitions covering terms frequently used by landscape architects is of real value in defining such terms. The criticism may be raised by some who consult a volume of this kind that in reality no definite line can be drawn between the uses of some plants for one purpose or for another purpose. This is admittedly a fact. It will be quite evident from a short study of the Index that many plants frequently have a distinct and definite value as adapted to different purposes. RANGE OF MATERIAL COVERED. While the range of material covered by the lists is sufficient to meet the requirements of the average property holder, the lists may be supplemented by additional and unusual varieties which, if selected, should be given unusual care. The information in this book has been compiled to cover the range of material which is adapted for use generally throughout the following portions of the United States: The North Atlantic States, the Great Lakes Region, the Central States as far west as the Missouri River and as far south as Arkansas. No lists have been compiled for the Great Plains and the Rocky Mountain States, but special lists have been compiled for the Atlantic Coastal Plain from Virginia to Mississippi; also for the Peninsula of Florida and for the region within a radius of one hundred and fifty miles from the Twin Cities. For the Pacific Coast, lists have been prepared for the Oregon-Washington Coastal Plain. It should be borne in mind that plants which develop one type of growth in a northern climate will develop another type of growth, because of the longer growing season, in a southern climate. 6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN THE RANGE or PLANT ADAPTATION IN GENERAL. After studying a compilation of this kind the great range of plant adaptations becomes evident. There is a large group of materials which are hardy under almost all conditions. There are many other types of material, how- ever, too numerous to mention in detail, which are adapted only to specific sections of the country. THE ADAPTATION OF EVERGREENS IN PARTICULAR. The question of the adaptation of evergreens is perhaps the one which may cause the most serious discussion. Evergreens are a group of plants which possess widely varying characteristics, especially of hardiness under different climatic conditions. The evergreens which will flourish in the humid and less severe atmosphere of Long Island will not grow through the windy regions of the Middle West, nor in the extreme exposure of the water-front conditions of the North Atlantic and the Great Lakes Region. Neither will evergreens which flourish in the sandy soils of Michigan grow upon the clay soils of the Middle Western States. Therefore, the question of evergreens has been carefully considered, and an attempt has been made to differentiate the groups and the require- ments of each. This subdividing of evergreens for various locations is based entirely upon the normal protection. Many evergreens, as with other plants, will thrive under abnormal conditions if they are nursed and protected during the severe winter months. On the other hand, many evergreens which will withstand the exposures of winter conditions will not continue to thrive when placed in the clayey soils of some of our Middle Western States, where they are subjected to the severe baking and drying out of these soils during the summer months. METHOD OF GROUPING PLANTS. The question of whether plants for landscape use should be grouped according to height or according to other characteristics, such as season of bloom, character of growth, soil adaptations, etc., is one that has been discussed to a considerable extent. The writer feels that in the selection of plants as a part of any landscape design, the question of height is of secondary consideration as compared with the natural characteristics and adaptations of the stock under consideration. The selection of plants for specific pur- poses such as background planting, undergrowth planting, windbreaks, ground cover, etc., implies that, in addition to other important char- acteristics of hardiness, compactness, and qualities of fruiting and INTRODUCTION 7 flowering, such plants fulfill the requirements of height automatically imposed by some few groups. Height of plants means little to the landscape designer as compared with the many other important requirements of foliage effects, character of fruits and flowers, soil adaptations, hardiness and habits of growth and their response to pruning operations. In the selection of garden perennials questions of height are entirely secondary to the ability of the plants to produce flowers and foliage of varying qualities, so essential to the success of the garden picture during different months of the growing season. CHAPTER II PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS. Comparative data based on the best reliable sources of information relative to planting seasons and lawn- seeding seasons are so interesting and so valuable, as a basis of es- tablishing definite relationships among varying sections of the United States, that the writer has been prompted to attempt a diagrammatic and a tabulated analysis of this important question (See Plate III). Considered from the standpoint of a plant the act of transplanting is a violent one and consists of stopping at once a large part of its vital activities, generally causing the loss of a considerable part of its root system. Therefore, transplanting should be accompanied by pre- cautions to prevent too great loss of moisture by transpiration, and by measures to assist the plant in starting growth at the earliest possible date. Seeding differs from transplanting in that a seed is a ripened embryo which is a minute but complete dormant plant. As the process of germination includes the making of a vital connection be- tween the young plant and the soil sufficient to enable the plant to produce green tissue and support itself, seedage must also be sur- rounded by precautions to insure proper conditions for germination. One of the most important factors in transplanting or seeding is the selection of the correct season, because upon the successful start of the operation depends the whole future of the plant. Plants grown in pots, or so root pruned that nearly all their roots may be moved with them, are, of course, in condition to be moved at all sorts of odd seasons, but this latter is the work of experts or trained gardeners and is not to be recommended to amateurs on account of the technical knowledge and skill required both during the planting operation and in the way of proper after-care and maintenance. This discussion is confined to transplanting dormant plants and to seeding of lawns, under the fol- lowing headings : (a) Deciduous Trees, Shrubs, and Vines (b) Evergreen Plants Coniferous and Broad-leaved) 8 PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS 9 (c) Herbaceous Perennials (d) Lawn Grasses Greenhouse plants and the propagation of plants by seeding, ex- cept as referring to lawn grasses, are not included because condi- tions vary so widely in the same locality. DECIDUOUS TREES, SHRUBS, AND VINES. The transplanting of deciduous trees, shrubs, and vines is commonly carried out during their dormant season. It is possible in the spring, however, to carry on planting of deciduous woody plants, at a time when the local plants are too far advanced to be moved, by the simple expedient of bringing plants from a storage cellar or from a more northerly nursery where they are still dormant. Again in the autumn, these same northerly grown plants may be used to start planting work before the local plants are matured and safe to move. Transplanting seasons are not so much governed by north and south latitude as they are by the condition of the plants, as explained in another paragraph under discussion of life-zones. The beginning of the dormant period for woody deciduous plants comes in the autumn when their wood is matured and ripened and the leaves start to fall or to take on their autumn colouration. This occurs early in such plants as lilacs, lindens, flowering currants, and horse- chestnuts, and it will usually be found to occur late in some of the plants which are said to be hard to move in the autumn, such as poplars and silver maples. From the beginning of the dormant period in the fall until the beginning of physiological activity in the spring, de- ciduous plants may be moved at any time that the ground is in proper condition and the temperature favourable. As a matter of practice, in the northern states this work is suspended entirely during a normal winter, for about four months, except where large plants are moved with a frozen ball of earth about their roots, because frozen ground and snow make the operation of transplanting smaller plants entirely impracticable. This period, longest in Maine and in the section surrounding Minneapolis, lessens as one goes farther south, until in Virginia and Georgia a continuous planting season extends without interruption through the dormant period. It was early learned that the whole of North America could be conveniently divided into seven transcontinental belts or life-zones, based upon the length of the growing season, which has been defined io THE COMPLETE GARDEN as the period between the date in the spring when the normal mean daily temperature rises to 43 degrees Fahr., or above, and the date in the autumn when it falls to below that figure. (The reader should con- sult Bulletin No. io of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Division of Biological Survey, entitled "Life Zones and Crop Zones." Part III of that Bulletin is especially interesting). These life-zones are, as noted above, adapted to plants requiring growing seasons of similar length and temperature range. Thus, if soil conditions, exposure, and amount of annual rainfall are alike in two distant portions of a zone plants which succeed in one portion may be expected to succeed in the other portion. They may in any event be tried out with considerable confidence when all the conditions are known to be the same, as described above. It now seems evident, from recently gathered data, that these zones correspond very closely to belts of country which have similar planting seasons for dormant woody plants, at least throughout the humid regions east of the looth parallel of latitude. By consulting the accompanying Plate II, which has been adapted from the one in the above-mentioned Bulletin, and also the chart (Plate III), which shows the reported length of planting seasons, it will be seen that the stations reporting fall into groups which lie in respective life-zones as shown on the map. Thus stations 2, 3,4, and 6, all of which lie in the so-called Transi- tion Zone, including most of New England, New York State, Penn- sylvania, northeastern Ohio, the Alleghanies from Pennsylvania to Georgia, southeastern Ontario, Michigan, Wisconsin, southern Minne- sota, North Dakota, and northern South Dakota, all report a short fall and spring planting season, divided by a long winter season, during which ordinary planting work is impracticable. Stations 7, 8, and io lie in the northern limits of the upper Austral Zone where they are influenced by the Great Lakes. Stations 13, 14, 15, and 18 lie outside of the Great Lakes influence in the same zone, which includes a great territory stretching from the Coastal Plain westward to the Great Plains, and from the Transition Zone on the north to central Georgia and northern Texas on the south, except for an arm of the Lower Austral which extends northward along the Mississippi River to Cairo, 111. The first three stations, 7, 8, and io, show the influence of the Great Lakes in that their spring planting season is delayed, while stations 13, 14, and 15 show a markedly later date for stopping trans- PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS 11 planting in winter and an earlier closing date in the spring, due to the greater length of the growing season in this zone. Station 18 has such short winter interruptions that it practically offers a continuous work- ing period from fall to spring. Stations 17 and 20 lie in the Lower Austral Zone, which includes the Atlantic Coastal Plain from the Piedmont Region to the ocean and all the southern states south of the Upper Austral Zone. The Sacramento-Fresno Valley in California also is included in this zone. These stations, together with station 19, which is probably influenced by the Japanese Current, and station 21, which lies in the Gulf strip of the Lower Austral, all report a continuous planting season of about the same length, which is uninterrupted by any cold weather. Station 16 reports a long fall season with a short interruption and a short spring season, while station 22, which lies just north of the Tropical Zone, reports a short, uninterrupted season which closes early. In the extreme northernmost area, except that of Camden, Maine, the fall planting season does not open early enough, nor does the spring season extend long enough to offset the long winter period of frozen ground, which may extend to five months in the Northern Zone. Thus the total number of working planting days in the Northern Zone may be only 70 or 80 in an average year of not unusual severity of winter, while in the great central portion of the country each of the two seasons may be as much as 50 days long, giving a combined plant- ing season of about 100 working days. In the Southern Zone, where there is no interruption during the winter, the season may be from 115 to 150 or even 160 days long, except that the beginning of growth in the spring curtails the season at that end when the Tropical Zone is ap- proached. It should be noted that the farther south one goes the more abruptly the spring growing season opens and the harder it becomes to prolong the planting season by any of the expedients mentioned above. The growing seasons of the southern sections of the United States open rapidly and there is greater danger in the operation of transplanting after leaf growth has started than in the cooler northerly sections of the country. It is also inadvisable to import cold storage plants into such southerly sections much after the time when local stock is in full leaf. It is probable that as time goes on much more detailed and complete data will be published regarding safe planting seasons for the different life-zones of the country, thus enabling planters to eliminate nearly all 12 THE COMPLETE GARDEN of the guesswork which now exists, when one is called upon to execute work in an unfamiliar territory. EVERGREEN PLANTS (CONIFEROUS AND BROAD-LEAVED). The planting seasons for evergreens follow somewhat closely those for deciduous plants. It is probable that as our knowledge of broad- leaved evergreens increases, their planting season can be shown to do this also. There are now about fifty known species of broad-leaved evergreens which are hardy in our northern climate if handled properly. It is important to know what are the requirements surrounding suc- cessful transplanting of evergreens. Probably the most important seasonal requirement for transplanting of evergreens is that the soil moisture shall be plentiful just prior to the time of transplanting in the location from which they are taken. In other words, in spite of all the old notions to the contrary, fall planting of evergreens should not start till the fall rains have adequately moistened the soil. Fall planting of evergreens can be successfully done as late as any other planting, provided the ground is moist when it freezes. It is better to wait for the fall rains than to plant too early and subject the plants to a hot, dry spell immediately afterward. In the spring, while it is possible to delay the planting of evergreens past the safe date for deciduous stock, due to the fact that they are practically always moved with a ball of earth, yet the best season is the earliest possible one. In both spring and fall planting, early planting has the advan- tage of allowing the plant to start root growth before the advent of the very hot weather of summer and the drying winds of winter, which sap the moisture content of the plant from the pores of the persistent leaves. Such sorts as biota, thuja, and taxus, which seem to establish themselves readily, can probably be successfully planted later in the season than others like picea, abies, tsuga, pinus except nigra (austriacd), montana (Mughus), and Strobus and chamfzcyparis. Evergreens of the first type will be subjected to much loss if not transplanted in a fully dor- mant condition immediately prior to the beginning of growth in the spring or if transplanted at a time in the fall when root growth sufficient to fix the plant in its new soil surroundings cannot be developed be- cause of the lateness of the season. PERENNIALS. Planting seasons for herbaceous perennials are divided into spring and autumn in the North. One of the first factors PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS 13 when planting older plants is the blooming period of the species under consideration. As the blooming period is one of great activity above the ground, those plants which bloom late in the season, like Japanese windflowers and chrysanthemums, should be moved in the spring when they can make root growth more quickly and thus recover from the shock. On the other hand, those plants which bloom and mature early are practically dormant in late summer and early autumn. Thus, irises and peonies can be moved safely about September 1st, and will recover quickly and make new roots before cold weather sets in, whereas they are very active in the spring and often do not recover from the shock of being moved at that time unless the work is done very early. These are probably the first sorts fit to move in the autumn season, and other sorts follow along as they mature. The planting season for perennials would open earlier in the spring on a light soil than on a heavy one, both because the ground mellows earlier and because a heavy soil warms up more slowly. The texture of the soil is a factor affecting the planting season of perennials more than it does the other larger-rooted plants, and it is better to delay spring planting until the soil is in good condition to handle and is warm. Thus, the spring perennial season is likely to start later and last longer than that for woody deciduous plants, and also start earlier and stop earlier in the autumn. Pot-grown plants and seedlings can be transplanted at odd seasons whenever the weather is right, but it is generally best to wait till spring for all young herbaceous plants. Thus they are given the whole growing season in which to get es- tablished. Care should be taken not to bring tender plants out too early, before they have been hardened off, or too late, when the torrid summer days will wilt them down before they take root. LAWNS. The spring seeding season for lawn grass starts in the Lower Austral Zone in February, about the middle of the month, and continues to May ist, but may be shut ofFby the advent of hot weather as early as March ist. As one goes farther north, the season does not lengthen very much, but merely opens later, extending from about April 1 5th to June ist. Thus, this seeding season, to a great extent, overlaps the planting season and cannot be protracted past the closing date for planting without great risk of the bad effect of hot weather on the young grass. The autumn season starts in the North as early as August ist, and closes not later than October ist, but generally by the i 4 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 1 5th or 20th of September, thus not overlapping the autumn planting season to any extent. As one goes southward, the season again merely shifts along, so that, in the Upper Austral Zone, it opens about Sep- tember 1 5th and closes about November ist, while in the Lower Austral it is pushed along to October I5th. Here the practice of seeding stops, except for the use of English rye as a green winter carpet, and is superseded by the practice of "sprigging" or planting pieces of Bermuda and St. Augustine grass. This grass planting is commonly done in southern Florida in June, while farther north, and especially in Alabama, it is done through the winter months so as to take advantage of the then abundant rains (See Page 59). Grass seed sown too early in the autumn and not artificially watered will generally lie dormant until the fall rains start germination, and, likewise, seed sown too late in the autumn or too early in the spring will lie dormant until the ground warms up sufficiently to start sprouting. The grass seeding season is from the time the ground gets warm enough in the spring until it gets too cold in the autumn to start the germination process, but this season is as a matter of practice divided into two parts by the period in the summer when the ground is too dry to start germination and the weather is so hot as to require constant artificial watering, both to start germination of the seed and to keep the young plants alive. It is also generally considered wiser not to seed so late in the autumn, in the North, that the young grass plants will not be well established before freezing weather. These are the factors which influence the establishment of the lawn seeding season dates diagrammatically shown on the chart (Plate III). Making lawns in the South is a process of seeding when adaptable mixtures of north- ern lawn seed are used, and a process of planting roots when the native Bermuda and St. Augustine grasses are used. Northern grass is seeded in the period from September to January. Italian rye is seeded from October to January, and native grass roots are planted as shown on the chart in stations 21 and 22. PLANTING SEASON Aoa SEPT OCT Nov DEC JAX FEB MAR APR MAY JOKE COMPILED BY AJ)TAYLOR. laooEucuo ATE_ CLEVELAND, PLATE III. A chart to aid in determining the most favourable period for transplanting, and for seeding of lawns in various sections of the United States. Note the long winter periods of the Northern Zones, and the continuous plant- ing seasons of the Southern Zones. It is of great importance to be able to plan ahead and to order plants for delivery at the proper time for any section of the country. These are average seasons resulting from observations of normal seasons during a period of years. For supplementary information refer to Plate No. II on page No. 6. PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS CO W H CO g > I O W Q 3 g ^""^ o S g en X gu M.S ^ < Ui cu " 4) OS O. a, __ " is " i_, rs +j .0 c.a < ! jT i CJ O 4) en -C-C C en *J o 0*0 " '^S^ 3.2 s X M " C"" c ^ H J3-S.S < o Z en S >: (Xj < < f^ O Nj - >>>>>>>> (JcJcJtJ OOOOOOOOcucucoco rSco .corz! . I* *\ r* *\ ^ r+ MI-lNMMI-HI-IMI-l DM > > > > OO >>>>>> cart ca JJ u-> O ft f| M M ** M M_M M M 0. 0, 0. 0. 0. 0, ^w "n^3 ^=^-c ^^ S o 2 ' rj *i -o .5 c ' J2 ju 4) a THE COMPLETE GARDEN ;8 S^S ^ ; o T| 5 co ?r W g to bfi <- e C O .a 4-1 o 3 tt & 9 4-1 U -Q 03 ^ , " rV w ;T C3 cyu u cs -. iJli 8.5 s J2'g-5 3 P3 . 03 O c WORKING DAYS *&*s:aaa9saR 'SSSSRS&S**. i-l W C M 3 SS K O u .-> > o 4J4J4J4J < j i .^j4J4J^j t] j,4J < JM v 5*J'*' : '' 5 'jQ U ' CO CO C/3 CO O O O CO CO O ^ CO ^^ ^ O O ri ri re I- 3 -! S l~~> W O 1 1 1 - r > O O ^^ "i "^ "^ ^n "^ 9 v _ SS bflbobbtititisbtJOtititi^ o.tibijfio.'Q^jJ !> ij jj 333333333333 33;j - 4;57u 1 _O(ju ^^^^ \O foOO O l* co KI o z M O w 10 ^o O ^o ^o O ^^ K (2 o H) > CcacsCrtcjCwCCrtC CrtC^ ^c ^ W C3 O >J">O t - < "> x - < "}OO u "> IO IO ^ ^.LOloOlO W W ss y C'C b C'C C C b & b C> il-i li-Q-Q.3ji e O.O.O.O.O.O.O.O.O.O. CL.M ^ O. O. m m u ** \ t LOCALITY AS IYPICAL OF t-S*O ^ w''? t/3r O^ n: 3'O c >^ C^ W O o _ i-i 1 "? ,-r^, iJllffil^lJdlcll^^aJlJlllffi CO 2 -T3_co C-S ,- 2 u Q o>'>'g iJ O 1 S ||| f-< T3 2'Ii *2 H c c J5 o C co 0.3. w -= f- fe W ^ u . 5 .S ^ 3 C O ^^ S^ j 4-) (| jj >-,*3 g a'ljil *-" i H fi *r* be n 4-> O 2 *j'C " E?^^ ^ O co cD.2 U -S c ^ r co O S 3 2 c g CO- . JC^ r*' O *T ^) Q . ^ _ IM O 4-1 b K! > 2 < o o W O < o < o ^ o _) OvtX) o o > > o u^ r^ClS X " ofcua^^lS to 10 "^10 uo ..-.. .. v^vv^vvu-Zv^u I9> 22 > 26. Indian Currant and Snowberry Grape b. Holding fruit into the winter months: Celastrus (in variety) 2, II, 17, 1 8, 26. Myrica cerifera I, 6, 7, 1 1, 14, 17, 18, Bitter-sweet 19, 20, 25, 26. Crataegus coccinea 7, n, 12, 18. Bayberry Scarlet-fruited Thorn Rhamnus (in variety) 4, 5, 10, 12, 13, 14, Crataegus cordata 7, n, 12. I ^> 22. Washington Thorn Buckthorn Crataegus crus-galli-j, n, 12, 18. Rhus fa variety) I, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 1 1, Cockspur Thorn 12, 14, 17, 1 8, 19, 20, 22, 24, 25, 26. Crataegus oxycantha 7, II, 12, 18. Sumac May Thorn Sorbus (in variety) 2, 5, 9, 10, 1 1, 18, Evonymus (in variety) 2, 18, 19, 26. A/r 19 ' ' A L Burning Bush and Spindle Tree Mountain Ash Ilex opaca-2, 7, 17, 18, 26. Symphoricarpos (m variety) 9, 10, 12, 13. American Holly Snowberry and Indian Currant Ilex verticillata 2, 7, 17, 18, 26. Ts*g* tentdmris ^ Winterberry Canadian Hemlock /nt>r.r (in variety)-2, 5, 6, 9, 10, 14, *""" < in varietv ) Pt v |"ety 16, 17, 18, 19, 23, 25, 26. nmm-a, 5, 7, , 17, 18, 19, Red Cedar 22 > 2 5' 26 - , . ,. . Viburnum Lomcera (in variety) 9, 10, 12, 13. Honeysuckle Hips of the following roses are eaten by many species of birds. Rosa blanda Rosa rubiginosa Meadow Rose Sweet Brier Rosa Carolina Rosa rubrifolia Carolina Rose Red-leaved Rose Rosa lucida Rosa rugosa and single hybrids Glossy Rose Japanese Rose Rosa multifiora Rosa setigera Japanese Climbing Rose Prairie Rose Rosa nitida Rosa spinosissima Shining-leaved Rose Scotch Rose Rosa wichuraiana Memorial Rose c. Birds attracted by the fruit. The following "is a tabulation of the interesting types of birds which are attracted by the various PLANTS FOR FRUIT CHARACTERISTICS 167 kinds of fruit grown on the plants in list XX- D a and b. The numbers appearing after the names of the plants on Pages 165 and 166 refer to the numbers opposite the names of the different birds in the follow- ing list. All of these birds feed upon one or more of the kinds of fruit shown on the preceding pages. 1. Blackbird 10. Grosbeak 19. Sparrow 2. Bluebird n. Grouse 20. Swallow 3. Bobolink 12. Jay 21. Tanager 4. Catbird 13. Junco 22. Thrasher 5. Cedarbird 14. Kingbird 23. Thrush 6. Chickadee 15. Oriole 24. Vireo 7. Crow 16. Phoebe 25. Warbler 8. Cuckoo 17. Quail 26. Woodpecker 9. Finch 1 8. Robin E. PRODUCING FRUIT WHICH ATTRACTS BIRDS AWAY FROM OTHER FRUIT. Mulberries and shad-bushes will protect cherries and straw- berries. Elders, Virginia creeper, and black cherry will protect grapes. Elders and mulberries will protect raspberries and blackberries. F. PRODUCING FRUIT WHICH OFTEN MAKES THE PLANT UNDESIR- ABLE IN LANDSCAPE PLANTING. Aesculus hippocastanum Celtis occidentalis Common Horse-chestnut Nettle Tree Ailanthus glandulosa ~, ,. . . , Tree of Heaven Gleditsia tnacanthos Catalpa (in variety) Honev Locust Indian Bean Nut Trees (in variety) CHAPTER XXI TREES AND SHRUBS BEARING COLOURED TWIGS THE trees and shrubs in the following list are those whose twigs are coloured sufficiently to make them of value from a landscape stand- point. The colour effect of twigs may be interesting from two points of view: either because of the vivid colouring, such as is seen in the red-twigged dogwood, and in the glossy rose, or of the general tone of colour such as seen in the American olive and the golden-barked willow, in which the colour as a mass is much more effective at a dis- tance than upon close examination. Many of the interesting shrubs included in this group are often- times selected because of the sharp contrast between the colour of their twigs and the white background of snow or the green background of evergreens during the winter months. This is especially true of the birches and the dogwoods. In fact, there is equally as much interest during the winter months in a planting of this kind, properly de- veloped, as in the difference of foliage effects during the summer months. It is a feature of landscape plantings to which very little attention has been given and one which demands careful study in order to be successfully worked out. On extensive lawn areas, in our parks and large private estates, many specimens of these plants can be tucked away in large groups, where during the winter months the colour effect of the twigs will lend an interesting tone and more feeling of life to the otherwise mo- notonous effect of the background. The development of many vistas is oftentimes emphasized through the careful selection of such plants as the birches, willows, and Russian olive, to give the feeling of greater depth in the landscape picture. Such specimens, planted in the immediate background, with a heavy texture of planting in the foreground, will greatly add to the suggested feeling of distance. The plants included in this group are those which carry an interest- ing and vivid colour of the branches and twigs throughout the winter 1 68 COLOURED TWIGS 169 months. In the great majority of plants the new twigs show an in- teresting colour for perhaps part of the year, usually during the early spring months when the sap begins to flow. Later the colour becomes softened or deadened and it does not carry through to the late fall and winter. There are practically no shrubs which can be selected for the colour of their twigs during the summer months. It is not necessary to select plants for this purpose because there are so many other equally interesting effects to be obtained from flowers and foliage. The first two years' growth, especially the first year's growth on any tree or shrub, the twigs of which have a definite colour, is much brighter than the colour of the twigs after they are more than two years old and are becoming definite branches of the plant. This is a suggestion that severe pruning, or cutting back, will often enhance the effect, as in the case of the red-twigged dogwood. Twigs are also extremely interesting because of the markings. The tamarix and silky dogwood are types to study in detail as well as being valuable for the mass colour effect seen at a distance. Colour effects of twigs form the most interesting feature of land- scape twig effects, and yet the coverings of older branches and tree trunks on many trees are very effective in summer and winter. Every tree has its individual markings of trunk and branches, of great in- terest to the landscape student. The white oak, white birch, plane tree, and hackberry, with their peculiar bark, are valuable in landscape planting. LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS BEARING COLOURED TWIGS This list consists of types of plants which are extremely interesting because of the colour effect of their twigs. A memorandum is indi- cated opposite each type showing the special colour effect which is produced if the twigs are less than two years old. As twigs grow older the colour of the bark becomes more neutral, and consequently these plants should be frequently pruned in order to produce new growth with its more vivid colour effects. Acer pennsylvanicum striped green Betula populifolia white bark white branches American White Birch Striped Maple T> . 7 . j i- i i i , Lornus alba blood-red branches isetula nigra reddish brown bark -o i i r\ j Red Birch Red-twigged Dogwood Betula papyrifera white bark . Cornus alba sibirica coral-red branches Paper Birch Siberian Dogwood 170 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Cornus paniculata grey bark Grey Dogwood Cornus sanguined viridissima green twigs Green-stemmed Dogwood Cornus stolonifera flavirammea yellow bark Golden-twigged Osier Elaeagnus (in variety) silvery bark American Olive Fagus americana grey bark American Beech Forsythia viridissima dark green branches Dark-green Golden Bell Kerria japonica green branches Globe Flower Platanus orientalis white bark Oriental Plane Populus tremuloides silvery green branches Trembling Aspen Rosa blanda reddish purple twigs Meadow Rose Rosa lucida reddish twigs Glossy Rose Rosa lucida alba greenish twigs White-flowered Glossy Rose Salix alba yellowish bark White Willow Salix vitellina aurea golden yellow Golden-barked Willow Salix vitellina britzensis reddish bronze Hybrid Yellow Willow CHAPTER XXII PLANTS VALUABLE BECAUSE OF THE AUTUMN COLOURATION OF THE LEAVES ONE of the most charming features of our northern landscapes, es- pecially through the northeastern United States where such a great variety of deciduous trees are indigenous, is the autumn colouration of the foliage. During the normal growing seasons, when ample rains have fallen and the trees are full with sap at the end of the season, the autumn colours are much more vivid than during a dry season. It is extremely important in designing landscape plantings that thought should be given to the fruiting effects during the fall and winter months and also to the autumn colours of the foliage of our trees and shrubs. A small touch of colour in the border shrub plantings of the average lawn is usually the difference between an uninteresting and an interesting planting at that season of the year. Every planting should have introduced into it a few plants which, if not valuable for their fruiting and flowering characteristics, will produce a touch of colour as accents to relieve the monotony of the dead greens and browns during late September and October. Autumn colouration is the result of an interesting physiological function within the plant. Contrary to the average opinion that autumn colour is the result of sharp freezes, the presence of frost serves but in a slight degree to hasten this colouring, because the degree of cold necessary to produce a freeze further retards the flow of any sap. The production of the vivid autumn colours is caused by a devitalized or increasingly dormant condition of the plant. The lessened flow of new sap to the leaves, caused by the formation, of corky tissue at the extreme base of the leaf to cover and protect the leaf scar during the winter months, results in a chemical reaction of the acids within the leaf itself. The results of this chemical re- action are evident in the autumn colours. The factors determining the kind and degree of autumn colouration is the presence of different 171 172 THE COMPLETE GARDEN acids within the leaf. These acids are present constantly in their respective types of plants. It is a peculiar fact that in some trees autumn colouration is much more vivid than in other trees, because of the presence of certain acids the chemical reaction of which produces these vivid colours. The autumn colouration of foliage ranges from the dull browns through the yellows and orange to the brilliant red and scarlet. Some of our trees and shrubs such as the red maple, Judas tree, sourwood, sumac, and sassafras, develop their autumn colours during the early part of the fall. In these trees growth [stops early in the season and the wood matures more quickly. There is one group of plants such as the Virginia creeper, Thunberg's barberry, red oak, high- bush cranberry, and arrow-wood, in which the autumn colouration is produced shortly after the early trees have shown their autumn colours. The American beech, golden bell, scarlet oak, and burning bush, and some others mature and ripen last of all and are included in the group with late autumn colouration. With the great oppor- tunity for selection of trees and shrubs from these three well-defined groups a succession, if it may be so termed, of autumn colouration may be obtained, which will supplement and add interest to the fruit- ing effects produced by a well-selected group of plants valuable for the characteristics of their fruit. One has only to observe our native trees and shrubs in the north- east to appreciate the wonderful colour effects which are produced during the autumn months and are evidenced on all of our hillsides. So seldom are shrubs selected for landscape grouping with a. specific intention of emphasizing their value because of autumn colouration, that we find there are few good illustrations, and those at scattered intervals, showing the autumn colours and their values in the settings of our lawns. LIST OF PLANTS VALUABLE BECAUSE OF THE AUTUMN COLOURATION OF THE LEAVES The plants in the following three groups have been separated and grouped because of the interesting colour effects of the foliage. The most important factor in selecting plants for the autumn colouration of their foliage is to select material which will provide a succession of colour from early fall to late fall. The colours produced by the foliage of the different types are indicated after each type. PLANTS FOR AUTUMN COLOURATION A. Early: 173 Acer ginnala (scarlet) Siberian Maple Acer negundo (yellow) Box Elder Acer rubrum (scarlet) Red Maple Acer saccharum (red) Sugar Maple Betula lutea (yellow) Yellow Birch Betula nigra (yellow) Red Birch Cercidiphyllum japonicum (yellow to crimson) Kadsura Tree Cercis canadensis (yellow) Red-bud Chionanthus virginica (yellow) White Fringe Koelreuteria paniculata (yellow) Varnish Tree Liquidambar styraciflua (scarlet) Sweet Gum Liriodendron tulipifera (yellow) Tulip Tree Oxydendrum arboreum (scarlet) Sourwood Platanus orientalis (yellow) Oriental Plane Rhus typhina (scarlet) Staghorn Sumac Sassafras officinale (orange and scarlet) Common Sassafras Ulmus americana (yellow) American Elm B. Medium: Acer palmatum (red) Japanese Maple Amelanchiier (bright yellow) Shad-bush Ampelopsis quinquefolia (red) Virginia Creeper Berberis thunbergi (scanet) Thunberg's Japanese Barberry Carpinus caroliniana (orange) American Hornbeam Cotoneaster (in variety) (red) Cotoneaster Crataegus (in variety) (orange to red) Thorn Fraxinus americana (yellow) White Ash Carya alba (rich brown) Hickory C. Late: a. Coloured foliage. Acer platanoides (green) Norway Maple Cladrastis lutea (yellow) Yellow-wood Hydrangea quercifolia (yellow) Oak-leaved Hydrangea Nyssa sylvatica (red) Tupelo Quercus rubra (red) Red Oak Quercus velutina (orange and red) Black Oak Rhus canadensis (red) Fragrant Sumac Ribes aureum (yellow) Flowering Currant Vaccinium corymbosum (crimson) High-bush Blueberry Viburnum acerifolium (purple) Maple-leaved Viburnum Viburnum dentatum (red) Arrow-wood Cornus florida (scarlet) Flowering Dogwood Evonymus alatus (scarlet) Cork-barked Burning Bush 174 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Evonymus atropurpureus (red) Mahonia aquifolium (bronze) Burning Bush Oregon Grape Evonymus europaeus (red) Myrica cerifera (bronze) European Spindle Tree Bayberry Fagus americana (rich yellow) Ostrya virginica (yellow) American Beech Hop Hornbeam Forsythia viridissima (purple) Pieris floribunda (bronze) Dark Green Golden Bell Mountain Fetterbush Ginkgo biloba (yellow) Quercus alba (purple) Maidenhair Tree White Oak Hamamelis vireiniana (yellow) Quercus coccinea (scarlet) Witch Hazel Scarlet oak b. Green Foliage. Some trees and shrubs are exceedingly inter- esting in the landscape composition because of the varying and vivid colours of their autumn foliage, ranging from brown or brownish yel- low, through to vivid scarlet and bright red. There is another group of shrubs which are not so valuable because of the autumn colour of their foliage, but because of the fact that their foliage is retained until extremely late in the fall, or possibly into the early winter. Such shrubs as the privets, and many others shown in this list, are very valuable in landscape plantations where the owner cannot, because of climatic or soil conditions, resort to the use of evergreens, and is still desirous of producing a foliage effect that will serve as a background or a screen until late into October or early November. Many of these shrubs are somewhat tender and the fact that they do carry their leaves unchanged until late in the autumn often shows that they are not able to mature their wood during a nor- mal growing season. Since they often do not mature their leaves they are also liable to go into the winter with tender wood. Many of the shrubs given in this list should therefore not be planted in exposed places. I. Shrubs: Abelia grandiflora Cotoneaster horizontalis Hybrid Abelia Prostrate Cotoneaster Aralia pentaphyla Eleagnus multiftora rotundifolia Five-leaved Angelica Round-leaved Gumi Berberis wilsonae Evonymus bungeanus semipersistens Wilson's Barberry Half-evergreen Spindle Tree Chaenomeles japonica Fontanesia fortunei Japanese Quince Fortune's Fontanesia Cotoneaster adpressa Forsythia viridissima Creeping Cotoneaster Dark green Golden Bell PLANTS FOR AUTUMN COLOURATION 175 Hypericum buckleyi Lonicera fragrantissima Buckley's St. John's Wort Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Hypericum patulum henryi Lonicera sempervirens Hybrid St. John's Wort Coral Honeysuckle Ligustrum japonicum Lonicera standishi Evergreen Privet Standish's Bush Honeysuckle Ligustrum ovalifolium Viburnum macrocephalum California Privet Chinese Snowball Ligustrum vulgare sempervirens Viburnum opulus nanum Half-evergreen European Privet Dwarf Bush Cranberry Ligustrum amurense Viburnum rhytidophyllum Amoor River Privet Evergreen Viburnum Viburnum sieboldi Siebold's Viburnum 2. Vines: Akebia lobata Clematis paniculata Divided-leaved Akebia Japanese Clematis Akebia quinata Lonicera japonica halliana Five-leaved Akebia Japanese Honeysuckle Smilax hispida Prickly Greenbrier CHAPTER XXIII FAST-GROWING TYPES VALUABLE FOR PRODUCING SCREEN EFFECTS IT OFTEN becomes necessary to find some fast-growing type of tree or shrub to produce an immediate screen. This is especially true in the development of new landscapes where a foliage effect is desired and the more permanent types of shrubs in the planta- tion require a longer period to produce the desired effect. In such instances the more rapid-growing types of shrubs may be planted and removed after the first one or two years, at which time the more permanent types have developed far enough so that during the suc- ceeding years they will produce the effect which the designer had in mind when they were first selected. The great danger in using quick- growing types of temporary materials for immediate effects lies in the fact that for the success of such plantations the owner must have the "courage of his convictions" and remove the temporary types of material when the time comes that they are beginning to crowd and to injure the more permanent types. In other instances, where it is necessary to screen service buildings or blank walls of other buildings such quick-growing types of trees and shrubs as the ailanthus, poplars, willows, and elders may be planted. The ailanthus especially is used to form a mass of foliage against service buildings and blank walls during the summe rmonths, but this tree is cut back each year to a height of three or four feet and the new growth produces the effect during the next year. The fast-growing types of trees and shrubs often used to produce quick effects are correspondingly short lived. Those trees and shrubs which grow rapidly, mature and decay nearly as rapidly. Very few of these types should be placed in permanent plantings. This list consists of two distinct groups of fast-growing material: that group of which the ailanthus, poplar, willow, and elder are typical, being the very rapid-growing types of material, and that group of which the remaining trees and shrubs are typical being rapid-growing types 176 FAST-GROWING TYPES FOR SCREEN EFFECTS 177 which are more or less permanent in their character of growth. The types contained in this last group establish themselves much more quickly than trees and shrubs of a similar kind, which require a longer period after transplanting before making a normal growth. Such shrubs as the weigela, the ninebark, and the privet are often used to obtain quick mass effects of foliage around the base of buildings in locations where the slower-growing types of shrubs, such as lilacs, bridal wreaths, and snowballs would require a much longer time to develop a similar effect. LIST OF FAST-GROWING TYPES VALUABLE FOR PRODUC- ING SCREEN EFFECTS These groups contain the very fastest growing and most temporary types of trees and shrubs, and the more rapid-growing types of trees and shrubs often used in permanent plantings. Material may be selected from these groups when an immediate foliage effect is desired. A. Trees: Acer negundo Box Elder Acer saccharinum Silver Maple Ailanthus glandulosa Tree of Heaven Catalpa speciosa Western Catalpa Larix europea European Larch Madura pomifera Osage Orange Morus alba tatarica Mulberry B. Shrubs: Cornus alba sibirica Siberian Dogwood Cornus stolonifera Red Osier Cornel Deutzia crenata Pride of Rochester Large-flowered Deutzia Diervilla florida Rose-coloured Weigela Phellodendron amurense Chinese Cork Tree Picea excelsa Norway Spruce Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Platarms orientalis Oriehtal Plane Populus (in variety) Poplar Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust Salix (in variety) Willow Ligustrum amurense Amoor River Privet Lonicera (in variety) Bush Honeysuckle Philadelphus grandiflorus Large-flowered Mock Orange Physocarpus opulifolius Ninebark Sambucus canadensis American Elder CHAPTER XXIV PLANTS ADAPTED TO VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS A VERY important factor in determining the sorts of plants adapted to any specific location is the soil type. By soil type is meant the relative acidity or alkalinity of the soil elements, the relative fineness of the soil particles, and the relative state of dryness of the soil material. All of these conditions overlap and combine with one another and pro- duce soil types which are favourable for certain groups of plants and unfavourable for other groups. The exact physiological reasons why a plant should succeed so much better on one soil type than on another is seldom exactly understood; but practical experience has helped to solve many problems and to bring out many interesting facts. Plants adapted to boggy soils are likely to be shallow-rooted like the elm, and they are able to withstand a soil condition which is poorly aerated and almost invariably acid. In fact, a pond full of alkaline or limy water will generally be found practically devoid of plant life, while in an acid pond plants thrive so that they gradually displace the water as in sphagnum bogs, which were open ponds at one time but have lost that character through the excessive growth of plants. In a true bog there is practically no free drainage except during the spring thaw or flood time. Plants adapted to bog gardens are called bog plants. Perhaps the most prominent of these perennials are the different varieties of the lady-slipper and the pitcher plant. One of the most essential things for the success of bog garden plants is to have a moist condition which does not vary to any marked degree. It is much better to have the ground surrounding the roots of these plants over-saturated than to have the degree of moisture become too much depleted,' as the water table throughout the entire area of the bog garden should be main- tained at a constant level and at the same time the water should not be allowed to become stagnant. If the area which is being developed as a bog garden does-not naturally possess a growth of certain plants which one knows to be indigenous to bog areas then investigation should be 178 VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS 179 made to be sure that the artificial bog garden can have moist soil condi- tions which will be congenial to the plants in this location. Peat soils are not only naturally acid but it is believed they con- tain low forms of plant life also which are of great assistance in pro- moting the growth of ericaceous plants that especially thrive on peaty soils. Peat bog soils lack available nitrogen and therefore carnivorous plants occur, such as pitcher plants and sundew. Humic acid is pres- ent and low temperatures are the prevailing ones. The humic acid acts upon the roots of the plants. Plants adapted to peat are likely to be those requiring considerable humus also a cool, moist, deep, loamy soil and a position not in full sun when transplanted. Since in a light, sandy soil the particles are relatively large such a soil is generally well aerated and not retentive of moisture. Thus, plants adapted to such a soil are as a rule very hardy and possessed of a large root system due to the fact that the roots generally have to ex- tend considerable distances in search of water which may fail just when most needed, that is, during summer droughts and winter freeze- ups accompanied by a drying wind. Also since this soil type is well aerated it is not likely to contain much humus or to be acid in char- acter as the aeration or oxidation of the humus removes one cause of the soil acidity. On the other hand, clay soils are composed of very fine particles, poorly aerated, and are retentive of moisture and tend to be acid in reaction. Therefore, plants adapted to clay soils are generally mois- ture loving, free from large fibrous root systems, and are not nearly so likely to be hardy, especially if removed to another soil type. Light soils are said to be warmer than heavy ones. What is really meant by that is that the period of growth from spring to autumn is longer on a light soil than on a heavy one. For this reason, plants which start growth early in the spring, like peaches, or bloom late in the autumn, like chrysanthemums, generally succeed better on a light soil. For the present, and until the underlying reasons are better understood, experience will prove the best guide in selecting plants for the different soil types. LIST OF PLANTS ADAPTED TO VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS A. BOGGY AND PEATY SOILS. Plants in this group have proved their ability to thrive under extremely wet conditions in boggy or peaty i8o THE COMPLETE GARDEN types of soil. The evergreens in this group should never be planted in a soil containing limestone or in a soil which is supplied with water from a source where limestone is present, or be fertilized with bone meal. a. Boggy situations (Trees and Shrubs}: Acer rubrum Red Maple Alnus glutinosa Black Alder Alnus incana Speckled Alder Alnus rugosa serrulata Smooth Alder Aronia arbutifolia Red Chokeberry Aronia melanocarpa Black Chokeberry Setula nigra Red Birch Cephalanthus occidentalis S Button Bush Chamaecyparis thyoides White Cedar Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Fraxinus americana White Ash Hypericum densiflorum Bushy St. John's Wort Ilex verticillata Winterberry Boggy situations (Perennials): Ascelpias rubra Red Milkweed Aster nemoralis Bog Aster Cypripedium candidum Small White Lady's Slipper Eupatorium verbenaefolium Rough Thoroughwort Gaultheria procumbens Wintergreen Helonias bullata Swamp-pink Solidago neglecta Swamp Goldenrod I tea virginica Virginian Willow Larix laricina Tamarack Nyssa sylvatica Tupelo Picea alba White Spruce Quercus alba White Oak Quercus bicolor Swamp White Oak Quercus palustris Pin Oak Salix (in variety) Willow Taxodium distichum Bald Cypress Thuja occidentalis - American Arborvitae Tilia americana American Linden Ulmus americana American Elm Vaccinium (in variety) Blueberry Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Osmunda cinnamomea Cinnamon Fern Osmunda regalis Royal Fern Rhexia virginica Meadow Beauty Rynchospora alba White Beaked-rush Sarracenia purpurea Pitcher Plant VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS 181 b. Peaty situations: Pieris floribunda Mountain Fetterbush Rhododendron (in variety) Rhododendron Taxus canadensis Ground Yew Pachistima canbyi Piburnum nudum Canby's Mountain Lover Large Withe-rod Xanthorrhiza apiifolia Yellowroot Kalmia angustifolia Sheep Laurel Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel Ledum groenlandicum Labrador Tea B. LIGHT, SANDY SOILS. This group contains many hardy types of trees and shrubs which seem to flourish under poor soil conditions. In general they have a deep root system which enables them to obtain moisture and food material during periods of dry weather. Trees: Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Pinus banksiana Jack Pine Pinus rigida Pitch Pine Pinus strobus White Pine Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Prunus padus commutata Hybrid European Bird Cherry Pyrus baccata (in variety) Siberian Flowering Crab Ouercus rubra Red Oak Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust b. Shrubs: Azalea nudiflora Pinkster Flower Caragana arborescens Siberian Pea Shrub Comptonia asplenifolia Sweet Fern Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Cytisus scoparius Scotch Broom Hamamelis virginiana Witch Hazel Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Large-flowering Hydrangea Juniperus communis Common Juniper Mahonia aquijolium Oregon Grape Myrica cerifera Bayberry Prunus maritima Beach Plum Rhamnus cathariica Common Buckthorn Rhus canadensis Fragrant Sumac Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Salix tristis Dwarf Grey Willow 182 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Sophora viciijolia Tamarix (in variety) Sophora Tamarisk Spiraea vanhouttei V actinium corymbosum Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath High-bush Blueberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Viburnum (in variety) Indian Currant Viburnum c. Fines: Actinidia (in variety) Lonicera japonica halliana Silver Vine Japanese Honeysuckle Ampehpsis quinquefolia Lycium halimifolium Virginia Creeper Matrimony Vine Celastrus (in variety) Vitis (in variety) Bitter-sweet Grape C. HEAVY TYPES OF SOILS. Most of the plants in this group are not of a deep-rooted type and are better adapted for use in the heavy types of soil. These plants, under normal conditions, should be planted in heavy clay soil which is not well drained. This list is compiled for reference where the extreme of clayey soil conditions exist and a particularly safe group of plants is desired from which to select. a. Trees: Abies balsamea Larix europaea Balsam Fir European Larch Abies brachyphylla Larix laricina Nikko Fir Tamarack Abies veitchi Larix leptolepsis Veitch's Silver Fir Japanese Larch Acer rubrum Picea excelsa Red Maple Norway Spruce Acer saccharum Pinus strobus Sugar Maple White Pine Catalpa bignonioides Thuja occidentalis Indian Bean American Arborvitae Fagus (in variety) Tsuga canadensis Beech Canadian Hemlock b. Shrubs: Aralia (in variety) Corylus avellana Angelica Tree Filbert Berberis thunbergi Diervilla trifida Thunberg's Japanese Barberry Bush Honeysuckle Calycanthus floridus Halesia Carolina Strawberry Shrub Silver Bell Cornus (in variety) Hamamelis virginiana Dogwood Witch Hazel Fiburnum (native varieties) Viburnum VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS 183 c. Fines: Actinidia (in variety) Lonicera japonica halliana Silver Vine Japanese Honeysuckle Akebia quinata Wisteria sinensis Five-leaved Akebia Chinese Wisteria D. TREES TOLERANT OF ALKALI SOILS. Trees which are used in this type of soil should be extremely vigorous in their habit of growth. There is no special reason which can be set forth, from a physiological standpoint as a guide, for selecting types of trees for these conditions. The best and safest guide is the experience of others. (Black Alkali Soils Sodium Carbonate): Koelreuteriapaniculata Varnish Tree (White Alkali Soils.} Ailanthus altissima Populus fremonti Tree of Heaven Western Cottonwood Elaeagnus angustifolia Prunus davidiana Russian Olive David's Flowering Peach Gleditsia triacanthos Quercus lobata Honey Locust (only fairly tolerant) California White Oak Halimodendron halodendron Robinia pseudacacia Salt Tree . Black Locust Platanus orientalis Ulmus (in variety) Oriental Plane Elm (only fairly tolerant) Note: All varieties of Prunus will thrive in alkali soils if grafted on Prunus davidiana. E. DROUGHT-RESISTING PLANTS. The ability of some plants to resist drought lies not in their ability to extract more water than other plants from the same soil, as commonly supposed, but in their ability to send deep roots after water, or else to cut down the loss of moisture through their tops when soil moisture is scarce. All plants require about the same amount of available moisture in the soil around their roots, to keep them from wilting when growing in the same type of soil. But soil types vary in their ability to give up moisture, and the moisture content in a sandy soil can fall much lower than in a more retentive loam or clay soil before plants begin to wilt. This explains why plants adapted to drought conditions and growing in a sandy soil can survive a period of drought which will seriously injure other plants growing near by upon a clay loam soil actually containing more water. I8 4 THE COMPLETE GARDEN All of the plants in the following list possess some characteristic which fits them for growing in dry places and should be chosen for planting in those dry spots upon embankments or on sandy soil where it is so hard to secure results with ordinary herbaceous perennials. While the plants included in this list are called drought-resisting plants they are not such plants as will withstand deliberate abuse through lack of cultiva- tion or other normal care. The attempt to adapt plants of this kind to extreme soil conditions should not be made until a decision has been reached that no changes in soil conditions are practicable or justifiable. Achillea filipendula Oriental Yarrow Anchusa italica Alkanet Anchusa mysotidiflora Caucasian Alkanet Arabis alpina Rock Cress Arenaria montana Sandwort Artemisia abrotanum Southernwood Artemisia stelleriana Beach Wormwood Calandrinia umbellata Rock Purslane Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-Summer Cheiranthus allioni Hybrid Wallflower Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink Draba azoides Aizoon-like Whitlow Grass Echinops ritro Globe Thistle Erigeron speciosus Oregon Fleabane Eryngium amethystinum Amethyst Sea Holly Euphorbia epithymoides Yellow Wolf s-milk Glaucium flavum Sea Poppy Helianthemum (in variety) Frostweed Liatris pycnostachya Blazing Star Liatris scariosa Large Button Snakeroot Linaria dalmatica Dalmatian Toad-flax Lupinus polyphyllus Perennial Lupin Nepeta mussini Catmint Oenothera fruticosa Sundrops Oenothera speciosa Missouri Evening Primrose Papaver orientate Oriental Poppy Platycodon grandiflorum Balloon Flower Salvia azurea Blue Salvia Salvia pratensis Meadow Sage Santolina chamaecyparisus Lavender Cotton Sedum (in variety) Stonecrop Sempervivum (in variety) Houseleeks Stachys lanata Wooly Woundwort Tunica saxifraga Saxifrage-like Tunica Verbascum olympicum Greek Mullein Verbascum phoeniceum Purple Mullein Ferbascum phlomoides Clasping-leaved Mullein Yucca (in variety) Adam's Needle CHAPTER XXV PLANTS FOR EXPOSED LAKE FRONT AND RIVER CONDITIONS WE HAVE often noticed plantations along exposed lake fronts and river fronts where normal development seems to have been greatly retarded and a considerable loss from winter-killing has been expe- rienced. A definite problem in the selection of plants adapted to these locations is presented, especially where the prevailing winds during the colder periods in the year are from the water. The plant materials listed in this group are selected from those which have been found hardy under the exposed lake front and river front conditions near the Great Lakes and the smaller rivers of the northern portions of the middle west. Many plants which apparently are hardy under the more even and severe climatic conditions of the in- land are not hardy under these water-front conditions. This is largely due to the sudden changes of temperature during the worst of the winter months, and also to the possible effects of the spray freezing on the stems. In general plants which do not ripen their growth until very late in the season are not recommended for use under these conditions. No plants, not even the more hardy types of those included in these lists, will adapt themselves to normal conditions of growth as early as the same plants would adapt themselves under inland con- ditions of climate and atmosphere. A greater percentage of loss will be experienced and the only practical method for obtaining a complete planting is by careful addition and replacement during the first three or four years. It is necessary for much of this material to become ac- climated to these more severe conditions, and it may be advisable at times to plant some of the more rapid-growing trqes and shrubs as a partial protection during the first two or three years. It is preferable that material used on the steeper slopes of river fronts and lake fronts should possess a deep root system which will aid in protecting the slopes against erosion. If the slopes are steep 185 186 THE COMPLETE GARDEN and wash badly during periods of rain such types as locust, sumacs, willows, and the matrimony vine will form a deep root system quickly. The process of naturalizing trees and shrubs on the slopes of river banks and lake shores is a slow one. It should never be attempted as a single operation. The material should be young, a great percentage of loss must be expected, and only the "survival of the fittest" rule can apply. LIST OF PLANTS FOR EXPOSED LAKE FRONT AND RIVER CONDITIONS The plants in Groups A, B, and C of this list include the hardy types of trees and shrubs. All of these types have been known to thrive under the severe exposures of lake shore and river frontage throughout the northeastern United States. Most of these plants are adapted for use on the slopes so often found along rivers and lakes. A. Trees: Acer ginnala Pinus banksiana Siberian Maple Jack Pine Alnus glutinosa Pinus montana mughus Black Alder Dwarf Mountain Pine Betula alba Pinus nigra austriaca European White Birch Austrian Pine Betula populifolia Pinus rigida American White Birch Pitch Pine Caragana arborescens Pinus sylvestris Siberian Pea Shrub Scotch Pine Crataegus coccinea Populus balsamifera Scarlet-fruited Thorn Balsam Poplar Crataegus oxycantha Populus eugenei May Thorn Carolina Poplar Elaeagnus angustifolia Ptelea trifoliata Russian Olive Hop Tree Fraxinus americana Pyrus baccata White Ash Siberian Flowering Crab Juniperus communis Quercus macrocarpa Common Juniper Mossy Cup Oak Juniperus virginiana Robinia pseudacacia Red Cedar Black Locust Picea alba Salix vitellina White Spruce Yellow Willow Picea excelsa Sorbus americana Norway Spruce American Mountain Ash Ulmus americana American Elm EXPOSED LAKE FRONT AND RIVER 187 B. Shrubs: Cornus alba sibirica Ribes americanum Siberian Dogwood American Black Currant Eleagnus argentea Rosa rugosa Silver Berry Japanese Rose Myrica cerifera Salix incana Bay berry Rosemary Willow Philadelphus coronarius Shepherdia canadensis Common Mock Orange Canadian Buffalo Berry Prunus maritima Sorbaria sorbifolia Beach Plum Mountain Ash-leaved Spirea Rhamnus cathartics Spiraea tomentosa Common Buckthorn Hardback Rhus canadensis Symphoricarpos occidentalis Fragrant Sumac Wolfberry Rhus glabra Syringa vulgaris Smooth Sumac Common Lilac Rhus typhina Piburnum opulus Staghorn Sumac High-bush Cranberry C. Vines: Actinidia arguta Celastrus scandens Dark-leaved Silver Vine American Bittersweet Actinidia polygama Lonicera japonica halliana Silver Vine Japanese Honeysuckle Ampelopsis aconitifolia Lycium halimifolium Cut-leaved Vitis Matrimony Vine Ampelopsis heterophylla Periploca graeca Asiatic Creeper Silk Vine Ampelopsis quinquefolia Smilax wtundifolia Virginia Creeper Bull Brier Vitis (in variety) Grapes CHAPTER XXVI TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING A PECULIAR situation exists in the relative hardiness of trees and shrubs for seaside exposures. Plants which are entirely hardy on ex- posed river front and fresh water locations are apt not to thrive at the seaside, especially along the Maine Coast and the more exposed points of New England. Where the climatic conditions of the winter are not extremely severe, as on Long Island and the points farther south, most of the hardy trees and shrubs are well adapted. There are loca- tions on the exposed frontages of the Great Lakes where conditions are equally as severe as are conditions on the east coast of the northeastern United States. The salt air condition and the salt spray during the winter months does not become a factor, however, in lake front ex- posures. Perhaps the most severe conditions of seaside exposure in the country are along the shores of Penobscot Bay and the Maine Coast. In all ornamental plantings in these locations it has been a question of experimenting to determine the trees and shrubs to be used to with- stand the extreme and severe conditions of the winter months. The growing season is short. Therefore trees and shrubs which require a longer ripening period in the mid-summer and early fall months are subject to considerable winter-killing because of the immature condition of the wood when freezing weather begins. This same factor also deprives the early spring-flowering shrubs of the wood which produces flowers on buds formed the year before. The de- ciduous trees which are hardy along the coast of Maine are those which are indigenous to that section such as beeches, red oaks, willows, and red maples. None of the more refined types of evergreens, with the exception of the red cedar and the prostrate juniper, have proved hardy in these locations. The American arborvitae in many instances is hardy, and in others has not proved hardy. The white cypress is rarely seen. A number of shrubs which are included in this list have proved themselves extremely hardy and able to develop into mature 1 88 TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING 189 types which make excellent specimens and good mass plantings. The location considered in this discussion is along the northeast shore, where the exposure is the most severe. In the inland sections, removed from the severe exposure of the salt water, and protected by buildings and woodland developments, a large part of the list of generally hardy shrubs used throughout New England can be planted with safety. All of the material in this group, however, has been under observation for a number of years and has proven itself thoroughly hardy. In going farther south along the less-exposed New England shores we find a group of trees and shrubs which are fully hardy, but which do not develop at their best along the severe exposures of the Maine Coast. All of the material shown in the first list is fully hardy along the New England Coast and the less-exposed shore locations. There are many other shrubs which might prove hardy. Under the author's observation many types of this material have been used at one time or another. Sources of responsible information have been further con- sulted and many plants of questionable hardiness, which might otherwise have been included in these groups, have been for the present omitted. LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING A. PLANTS HARDY UNDER THE SEVERE EXPOSURE OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC COAST. Our only safe guide in the selection of plant types for the extreme exposures along the northeast coast is the experience of those who have endeavoured to acclimate a wide range of plant materials. These plants have proved thoroughly hardy, but it is possible that other plants which may be tested out in other locations or in the future will prove equally as hardy. a. Deciduous trees: Acer rubrum Populus deltoides monilifera Red Maple Northern Cottonwood Betula papyri/era Populus nigra italica Paper Birch Lombardy Poplar Betula populifolia Prunus serotina American White Birch Wild Black Cherry Populus alba Quercus rubra White Poplar Red Oak Populus balsamifera Salix alba Balsam Poplar White Willow Salix lucida Shining Willow 190 b. Conifers: Juniperus prostrata Dwarf Savin Juniperus virginiana (native forms) Red Cedar Larix laricina Tamarack Picea alba White Spruce Picea pungens glauca Koster's Blue Spruce THE COMPLETE GARDEN Picea rubra Red Spruce Pinus banksiana Jack Pine Pinus montana Swiss Mountain Pine Pinus resinosa Red Pine Pinus rigida Pitch Pine c. Shrubs: jilnus incana Speckled Alder Alnus rugosa serrulata Smooth Alder Ampelopsis quinquefolia Virginia Creeper Baccharis halimifolia Groundsel Bush Berberis thunbergi Thunberg's Japanese Barberry Chamaedaphne calyculata Leather-leaf Comptonia asplenifolia Sweet Fern Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora Large-flowered Wild Hydrangea Ilex verticillata Winterberry Ligustrum ibota regelianum Regel's Privet Ligustrum vulgare European Privet Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Lycium barbarum African Matrimony Vine Lyonia ligustrina Andromeda Myrica cerifera Bayberry Nemopanthus mucronaia Mountain Holly Prunus maritima Beach Plum Rhus glabra Smooth Sumac Rhus typhina Staghorn Sumac Rosa lucida Glossy Rose Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Rosa setigera Prairie Rose Sambucus canadensis American Elder Shepherdia canadensis Canadian Buffalo Berry Spiraea salicifolia Meadowsweet Viburnum cassinoides Withe-rod Viburnum dentatum Arrow-wood B. PLANTS HARDY IN THE LESS SEVERE SEASIDE EXPOSURES. Under the less severe conditions of seaside exposure there is a greater range of plants which may be used in addition to those shown under Group A. Most of the material in this part of the list is not adapted for use in the extreme northern section of the seacoast. PLATE XXVIII. This open allee is framed on either side by a solid row of closely sheared thorn trees. Its formal lines are softened by the row of pink flowering dogwoods which add a charm of flowers in early spring and of fruit in the late fall. Thorns planted 4 to 5 feet apart and dogwoods 8 feet apart. Width between rows of thorns 22 feet and between rows of dogwoods 9 to 10 feet. (See pages 144 and 147, group XVI-D-b) PLATE XXIX. An open allee 12 feet wide and 800 feet long, developed by the use of white birch planted 3 to 4 feet apart in each row. Fora per- manent allee of this type the birch is not ideal because of its short-lived characteristics and susceptibility to borer. Thorns, or the European beech would be preferable. (See page 147, group XVI-D-b-i) TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING 191 a. Deciduous trees: Acer ginnale Siberian Maple Amelanchier oblongifolia Shad-bush Celtis occidentalis Nettle Tree Crataegus coccinea Scarlet-fruited Thorn Crataegus cordata Washington Thorn Crataegus crus-galli Cockspur Thorn Crataegus oxycantha May Thorn Gleditsia triacanthos Honey Locust Platanus occidentalis American Plane Populus alba pyramidalis Belle's Poplar Prunus pumila Sand Cherry Ptelea trifoliata Hop Tree Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust Salix pentandra Laurel-leaved Willow Salix vitellina aurea Golden-barked Willow b. Conifers: Juniperus sabina (in variety) Savin Juniper Pinus densiflora Japanese Red Pine Pinus nigra austriaca Austrian Pine Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine c. Shrubs: Calluna vulgaris Scotch Heather Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Cornus amomum Silky Dogwood Cytisus scoparius Scotch Broom Dirca palustris Leather-wood Genista tinctoria Dyer's Greenweed Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Hydrangea (in variety) Hydrangea Hypericum kalmianum Kalm's St. John's Wort Itea virginica Virginian Willow Lycium chinense Chinese Matrimony Vine Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria Rhus copallina Shining Sumac Robinia hispida Rose Acacia Rosa blanda Meadow Rose Rosa Carolina Carolina Rose Rosa multiflorti Japanese Climbing Rose Rosa nitida Shining-leaved Rose Rosa spinosissima Scotch Rose Rubus odoratus Flowering Raspberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Viburnum lentago Sheep Berry CHAPTER XXVII PLANTS FOR PARTIALLY SHADED LOCATIONS IT OFTEN becomes necessary to make a selection of the lower- growing trees and shrubs to be planted in partially shaded situations. This condition may be brought about by the location of buildings, by the location of individual groups of large trees, and by the location of scattered specimen trees. We are not considering, in this compila- tion, the group of materials shown in Chapter XXVIII, which is not only adapted to this same condition of partial shade but has further value in being adapted to heavily shaded areas under wooded con- ditions. The shrubs in this list are those which may be used to a great degree of safety on lawn areas where a more or less refined plant- ing is necessary, and where native plants are not so much desired. The difficulty with many kinds of trees and shrubs planted in shaded locations is that the lack of sunlight prevents them from attaining a normal development. The foliage becomes thin and the branches are apt to grow long and spindly. Plants indigenous to such conditions, however, and which have come to thrive with this lessened supply of light, in partially shaded conditions, develop an interesting type of foliage; but flower effects on such plants are never quite as heavy as on plants which are supplied with sufficient light. In the making of plantations of this kind the only logical hope can be that of pro- ducing a foliage effect which serves as a background for a lawn and also often serves as a partial screen to give privacy to some garden or to shut off a service yard or other undesirable area. The bush honeysuckle, the arrow-wood, and the privet form a denser foliage than any of the other types of plants in this group. LIST OF PLANTS FOR PARTIALLY SHADED LOCATIONS As contrasted with the plants listed under Chapter XXVIII, most of the types in this list are adapted for use on the refined lawn areas where fruit and flowers, together with a heavy texture of foliage in the mature plant, are of great value. In fact, some of these plants such as the 19* PLANTS FOR PARTIALLY SHADED LOCATIONS 193 ground yew and the kalmia, will thrive better under partially shaded conditions than under conditions of open exposure to the sun. Acer pennsyhanicum Striped Maple Amelanchier oblongifolia Shad-bush Azalea (in variety) Native Azalea Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Ceanothus americanus New Jersey Tea Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Cornus alternifolia Alternate-leaved Dogwood Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Diervilla hybrida lutea-marginata Variegated Weigela Diervilla trifida Bush Honeysuckle Hamamelis virginiana Witch Hazel Hydrangea arborescens Wild Hydrangea Hydrangea quercifolia Oak-leaved Hydrangea Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel Ligustrum (in variety) Privet Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle Philadelphus coronarius Mock Orange Picea alba White Spruce Rhamnus caroliniana Carolina Buckthorn Rhododendron (in variety) Rhododendron Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Taxus canadensis Ground Yew Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock Viburnum acerifolium Maple-leaved Viburnum Viburnum alnifolium Hobble-bush Viburnum dentatum Arrow-wood Viburnum lentago Sheep Berry Viburnum opulus High-bush Cranberry Viburnum prunifolium Black Haw Viburnum pubescens Downy-leaved Arrow-wood Zanthoxylum americanum Prickly-ash CHAPTER XXVIII PLANTS FOR UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN WOODED AREAS THE plants which most successfully fill the requirements for under- growth planting are our native woodland species. These requirements are mainly the ability to succeed in partial or dense shade and also to survive the struggle for moisture, food, and room which always exists in a naturalistic planting where the ground below and the air above are already well occupied by large trees. Our northern forests con- tain a profusion of plants which will succeed as undergrowth. But too often in the past not enough care has been taken to choose only those plants which are desirable from an ornamental point of view. It is possible, however, to select from the large amount of available mate- rial all the plants which are necessary to carry out an undergrowth planting on any scale, and at the same time use only plants which are desirable on account of their flowering habits, their fruits, the autumn colouration of their leaves, their evergreen character, or some equally valuable characteristic quality. One of the best examples of a successful shrub for undergrowth is the well-known maple-leaved viburnum, which produces white flowers in June and blue fruits in the autumn, and whose leaves in autumn have a striking pink colour. Other shrubs which lend themselves very readily to undergrowth planting are the sweet pepper bush, with its profuse white flowers; the Carolina allspice, on account of its fragrance and autumn colour; and the chokeberries and winterberry, useful for their striking autumn fruits. Among the coniferous evergreens the native hemlock and the balsam fir are very satisfactory plants. The Douglas spruce also promises well and is adaptable to almost any soil. In choosing smaller plants of perennial herbaceous character much care should be taken to avoid weedy species or those without some especially worth-while characteristic. There are many native forms which are valuable for their green foliage alone, such as the Christmas fern, which is evergreen also, the ostrich fern, Clayton's fern, and the '94 UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN WOODED AREAS 195 maidenhair fern. Among the valuable asters are several which bloom profusely during the late summer and autumn months when other woodland flowers are scarce. The old-fashioned dead nettle, which does not sting, and its variegated leaved variety, provide flowers from May to September, when colonized in moist shade, and the goldenrods also, such as the blue-stemmed and the variety called speciosa, enliven the woods from August to October. Among the plants which will be found valuable for forming mats of ground cover and some of which are evergreen in character are the money- wort, English ivy, running strawberry-bush, spotted wintergreen, and the dwarf cornus or bunchberry. As a rule these plants succeed best when planted in small colonies and when used to face down clumps of shrubs which may in turn be used against an evergreen background. Thus, plantings may be grouped so as to provide interesting combinations along the sides of paths and at ends of vistas. If the natural mulch layer has disappeared an effort should be made to reproduce it as soon as possible after planting and care should be taken to see that forest fires do not burn off the autumn leaves which nature provides for a winter cover. When leaves drift in so thickly as to threaten to smother the smaller plants a portion of these leaves may be removed; but as a general rule it is not wise to do too much cleaning up unless the desirable plants are in danger of being overwhelmed by the mulch or by larger native plants. One of the most common faults in woodland landscape developments is the attempt to "clean up" existing undergrowth rather than to study its interesting possibilities in combination with many types of plants valuable for foliage, flowers, and fruit. All these types of plants are adapted for use in woodland wild garden areas, and without exception they will in time naturalize them- selves. In developing plantings of this type it is much better practice to lay the foundation during the first season by planting sparsely over the entire planting area. During the succeeding season many plants can be added to supplement the planting which is in place and to re- place those which have died in the process of establishing themselves. The best results are obtained by so laying out the planting develop- ment that a period of at least three years is required in which to put all of the material into its permanent location. The development of mass plantations under heavily shaded conditions is quite a different prob- lem from the development of mass plantations on open and refined 196 THE COMPLETE GARDEN lawn areas where planting should be practically completed during the first two seasons. Experience has taught those who have watched this type of plantations develop that a great percentage of loss must be anticipated, for two reasons : In the first place, plants are placed under abnormal conditions of lack of sunlight, and second, the available artificial water supply is apt to be very limited. The process of naturalizing plants and acclimating them to conditions of this kind must naturally be a slow process if the results when the work is com- pleted are to be a success from a landscape standpoint. It is quite essential in naturalizing perennials in a wild garden that conditions similar to those under which the plant was previously growing should be reproduced. A number of wild garden develop- ments have at different times become failures because as trees have died, thus changing the conditions of shade, these trees have not been replaced, and the result is that this changing of shade conditions has caused the killing out of many types of perennials which are especially susceptible to changed conditions of this character. LIST OF PLANTS FOR UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN WOODED AREAS Most of the plants contained in this list can be collected from the fields and woods. The larger plants are valuable as background for wild garden planting and for undergrowth planting in wooded areas. For information supplementing this refer to Chapter XXIX-C. A. Shrubs and Small Trees: Abies balsamea Ceanothus americanus Balsam Fir New Jersey Tea Acer saccharum Clethra alnifolia Sugar Maple Sweet Pepper Bush Aretostaphylos uva*ursi Cornus alternifolia Bearbeny Alternate-leaved Dogwood Aronia arbutifolia Cornus florida Red Chokeberry Flowering Dogwood Aronia melanocarpa Hamamelis virginiana Black Chokeberry Witch Hazel Benzoin aestivale Hydrangea arborescens Spice Bush Wild Hydrangea Calycanthus floridus Ilex verticillata Strawberry Shrub Winterberry Carpinus caroliniana Leucothoe catesbaei American Hornbeam Catesby's Andromeda UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN WOODED AREAS 197 Myrica gale Bayberry Philadelphus inodorus Scentless Mock Orange Physocarpus opulifolius Ninebark Pinus montana Swiss Mountain Pine Rhamnus caroliniana Carolina Buckthorn Rhododendron (Native Collected) Rhododendron Rubus odoratus Flowering Raspberry Staphylea trifolia American Bladdernut Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock Viburnum acerifolium Maple-leaved Viburnum Zanthoxylum americanum Prickly-ash B. Ground Cover Plants: Aciaea spicata Cohosh Adiantum pe datum Maidenhair Fern Ajuga reptans Bugle Anemone pennsylvanica Canadian Windflower Aralia racemosa American Spikenard Aspidium acrostichoides Christmas Fern Aspidium marginale Margined Fern Aster acuminatus t Sharp-leaved Aster Aster cordifolius Starwort Aster Aster corymbosus Wild Aster Aster patens Spreading Aster Chimaphila maculata Pipsissewa Cimicifuga racemosa Snakeroot Convallaria majalis Lily-of-the-valley Cornus canadensis Bunchberry Cypripedium Lady's Slipper Dennstaedtia punctilobula Hay-scented Fern Evonymus obovatus Running Strawberry Bush Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Evonymus radicans acutus Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy Galium boreale Northern Bedstraw Geranium maculatum Crane's Bill Hedera helix English Ivy Helianthemum chamaecistus Rock Rose Hepatica triloba Hepatica Hydrastls canadensis Golden Seal Hypericum calycinum Aaron's Beard Hypericum kalmianum Kalm's St. John's Wort Lamium maculatum Dead Nettle Lysimachia nummularia Moneywort Mahonia repens Creeping Mahonia Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Onoclea sensibilis Sensitive Fern Onoclea struthiopteris Ostrich Fern Osmunda claytoniana Clayton's Fern Pachistima canbyi Canby's Mountain Lover I 9 8 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Phlox divaricata Wild Sweet William Podophyllum peltatum Mandrake Polypodium vulgare Polypody Sanguinaria canadensis Bloodroot Solidago arguta Sharp-leaved Goldenrod Viola cucullata Common Violet Solidago caesia Blue-stemmed Goldenrod Solidago speciosa Showy Goldenrod Trillium (in variety) Wake Robin Vinca minor Periwinkle Viola canadensis Canadian Violet CHAPTER XXIX PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER GROUND-COVER plants are distinctly valuable for a use covered by the literal interpretation of the word. The conditions which they over- come may not be unsightly or entirely barren. Their general use is to provide on the ground an interesting carpet, which may be close- growing, as in the instance of vines and the very low perennials, or taller-growing, as in the instance of yellowroot and flowering raspberry. We may say that ground-cover plants are used to make a more interesting mat, which is an aesthetic use, or to form a carpet for the purpose of preventing excessive evaporation. Many of these plants are useful because of their fruiting characteristics, and also their ability to retain their foliage, both during the hot, dry summer months and during the winter months. In the selection of this material there are many different and distinct uses which can be definitely grouped under various headings, as shown in this chapter. As a matter of fact, any plants, whether high or low, serve as a ground cover in some sense of the word. The tall-growing plants, which are often seen planted in close masses and included in the groups of tall-growing shrubs, are discussed under the headings of "mass plantings" and also "undergrowth plantations." This dis- cussion does not attempt to treat those groups. It has seemed best, rather than to include in one general list all of the plants used for ground cover, to make an effort, at least, to separate into a number of subheadings the specific uses for which ground- cover plants may be selected. The person familiar with plant adapta- tions knows that there are distinct groups of plants which are adapted to low, moist conditions, as there are distinct groups of plants adapted to dry and sunny conditions also. Those of us who have had considerable experience in the planting of perennials in different types of garden soil, as affected either by the type of soil or the kind of drainage, know that certain plants will thrive in a very moist soil, while other plants take a great dislike to moist conditions, and will thrive only 199 200 THE COMPLETE GARDEN when the soil is well drained or light and sandy. There are some plants, however, like the moss pink, the sea thrift, and the Japanese evergreen ivy, which seem to thrive almost equally well in moist situations or dry situations. The plants shown in Group A are those which have proved their value as being adapted to conditions which are continually moist, and should preferably be grown in the open sunlight and not subjected to any considerable degree of shade. Plants which are adapted to dry situations, especially conditions of sandy soil or extreme drainage where grass will not thrive, include a small group which have proved themselves very hardy. The bar- berry, the Japanese spurge, the moss pink, and the stonecrops are fully representative of this group. The mat of foliage formed by the plants in their more mature development serves to shade the ground beneath and, to a certain extent, to retain much moisture in the soil which otherwise would be lost through evaporation. This group includes the close-growing types of plants which are selected mostly because of their ability to form a definite mat. Many of them such as the stonecrops, the tunica, and the moss pink, are extremely valuable because of their flowering habit, although effective during a short period only. The Japanese spurge, the partridge berry, and the bearberry are valuable distinctly on account of their foliage habits. The plantsman is often called upon to select material which may be vines, perennials, or low-growing shrubs, to be used for ground-cover purposes under large trees, and in situations heavily shaded by build- ings. Most of these plants should have, for their most successful growth, an excellent topsoil containing a small percentage of clay, or a rich woodland loam consisting mostly of well-rotted leaf mold and fibrous roots. These plants are valuable because of their ability to thrive under extreme shade. One often sees in large lawn areas and at the edges of woods, or on the shady side of buildings, spots which receive little or no sunlight where grass will not thrive and where most of our ordinary shrubs and perennials grow thin, leggy, and not vigor- ous. In such locations the only real solution lies in the selection of plants which will form a ground cover and thus preserve a mat of interesting green foliage. Many of these plants also, like the bunch- berry, the ground yew, and the partridge berry, have interesting fruit. The waterleaf, the moneywort, and the Japanese evergreen spurge are types valuable only because of their foliage, and the stonecrops, the periwinkle, and the wake robin are valuable also because of their inter- PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 201 esting flowers. This list of plants does not endeavour to cover the group shown under "perennials valuable for ground cover in wild garden areas," but if one is seeking more complete information on this subject both this group and the discussion on "wild garden areas" should be consulted. (Chapter XXXI-C.) The question of how to make interesting those embankments and slopes that are otherwise unattractive is one which often confronts us. The plants which are used for this purpose are included under the groups of shrubs, ^perennials, and vines, and the kind of materials selected, whether shrubs, perennials, or vines, depends upon the scale of the effect which is desired. That is, for coarse, rocky embank- ments, marked with large boulders, and which are to have a rocky appearance, the larger shrubs and vines are most valuable, while for a more refined effect in the intimate portions of the landscape setting the perennials and smaller-growing vines are more effective. Most embankments and rocky slopes are composed of sandy, well-drained, and generally dry soil. Here plants such as roses, matrimony vine, and buffalo berry are valuable for their fruit. The honeysuckles and the yellow-root are valuable for their foliage, and the flowering rasp- berry and prairie rose for their flowers. Most plantings in such sit- uations will require considerable care and watering during the first two years after transplanting. But subsequent to this time these plants, if properly selected, will continue to thrive, having been thoroughly acclimated to the new location. Another valuable group of ground-cover plants are those which are used to fill crevices between stepping-stones or between the flag- ging of paved terrace areas. This list is composed of small-flowering and foliage plants, both perennials and annuals, which are usually planted in small soil spaces between the stones. Their greatest value is to relieve the monotonous, bare effect of walks and terra.ce areas, to which so much interest would be added by a touch of colour, either in foliage or flowers, obtained through a proper planting of well- selected material included in this group. Many of these plants, if left to themselves, will after the first two or three years spread rapidly and will require much attention to keep them within the proper limits. Many paved walk and terrace areas are overplanted and consequently a careful selection of a few of these plants is much better than an over-supply. The rock cress, sea thrift, stonecrop, and creeping phlox are types which are adapted to the small, refined spaces, while for 202 terraces on a large scale, the dwarf iris, evergreen candytuft, tunica, and speedwell are plants which should be used. It is quite probable, in many instances on paved areas which to be on a firm foundation have but a small layer of loam between the stone and the cinders, that these plants will be frequently winter-killed and require replacing. If it so happens that these paved areas can be successfully laid, because of local climatic conditions, upon a good depth of sandy loam, then these plants must seldom be replaced, but rather frequently thinned out. There are many indigenous mosses which can readily be trans- planted in tufts to fill the crevices between the stones on paved walks, thus presenting the appearance of age during the first years after con- struction. Most of the mosses require a considerable quantity of water to make them thrive. There are a few varieties, however, found in open, sunny locations, that will thrive with little moisture. Therefore, before using moss to fill the crevices between flags on paved areas, the natural habitat of the moss to be used should be known. In one of the former groups of plants for dry locations and for em- bankments, the discussion was directed toward the effects of drying out. There are instances where the open exposure and the effect of the sun develop a situation requiring plants that will withstand ex- treme sun exposure. These plants can be adapted to light, sandy soil, and they form a small group, with the stonecrops, the Adam's needle, and the maiden pink as typical varieties, which may be planted under the most adverse conditions of exposure and sun. Quite often one finds plantations of rhododendrons and azaleas which have fallen just short of being really interesting because of the lack of some ground-cover planting to give the added and desired touch of in- terest. This may be for the purpose of relieving the bare ground around the edges of the plantation, so often covered in a successful manner with Japanese spurge, periwinkles, ferns, and andromedas. It may be that one desires a touch of colour so often obtained by the introduction of the different types of lilies, which can be successfully grown in plantations of hybrid rhododendrons. Especially in plantings of large and native rhododendrons, many of these ground-cover plants can be introduced with a great degree of success to relieve the "leggy" appearance of these plants and to make an interesting mat over the ground which might otherwise be more or less bare. The ground among rhododendrons is subject to more or less heavy shade for two PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 203 reasons. In the first place, the rhododendron foliage itself provides considerable shade at the base of the plant, and the nature of the rhododendron plant requires shade for its successful growth. Con- sequently, these ground-cover plants should be such as are adapted to the general conditions of woodland shade. It is inadvisable to culti- vate the soil around the base of rhododendrons and azaleas. These plants ought to be such that when once planted they will require no further cultivation other than the addition of a small amount of leaf mold from year to year, to provide the necessary food supply. The last and one of the interesting types of ground cover is that used in the development of rose gardens, to provide a mat of foliage or flowers between the rose bushes. Plants used for this purpose, such as the tufted pansy, the common verbena, and rose moss, ought to be shallow-rooted types, with low, spreading characteristics. The reason why a ground cover is desired in a rose garden is that during a portion of the summer months the ground is often bare. There is an argument, however, against the use of any ground cover throughout the rose garden in that the constant cultivation which is the best aid to the good development of roses cannot be done. Many of the success- ful English rose gardens are filled with these ground-cover plants. Where plants of this kind are used the roses should be well cultivated in the early spring and should be well cultivated again in the early or late fall, and they should be well fertilized also to insure sufficient food in the soil to provide for both the growth of the ground-cover plants and the roses. These plants, all of which are interesting for their flowering habits, provide an interesting group of colour at a season of the year when most of the roses have passed the height of their bloom. LIST OF PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER A. MOIST LOCATIONS. This group of plants is adapted for loca- tions where the soil conditions are apt to be continually moist. There are some perennials which will not thrive and will rot where the ground is continually moist. It is therefore desirable to have a group from which to select plants when these exceptional conditions of soil or drainage are encountered. Achillea tomentosa Alyssum saxatile compactum Yellow Milfoil Golden Tuft Ajuga reptans Arabis alpina Bugle Alpine Rock Cress 204 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Armeria maritima Sea Thrift Asperula odorata Sweet Woodruff Bellis perennis English Daisy Campanula carpatica Carpathian Harebell Daphne cneorum Garland Flower Epigaea repens Trailing Arbutus Erica Heath Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Evonymus radicans acutus Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy Evonymus radicans vegetus Scarlet-fruited Japanese Evergreen Ivy Ffstuca glauca Blue Fescue Grass Funkia (in variety) Plaintain Lily Helleborus niger Christmas Rose Iberis sempervirens Evergreen Candytuft Iris florentina Orris Root Lysimachia nummularia Moneywort Myosotis palustris Forget-me-not Nepeta glechoma Ground Ivy Phlox stolonifera Creeping Phlox Phlox subulata (in variety) Moss Pink Potentilla fruticosa Shrubby Cinquefoil Saponaria ocymoides Rock Soapwort Stellaria holostea Starwort Thymus serpyllum lanuginosus Downy Thyme Veronica repens Creeping Speedwell Vinca minor Periwinkle Herniaria glabra Herniary Viola cornuta Tufted Pansy Viola tricolor Pansy B. DRY LOCATIONS. The plants in the following group are es- pecially adapted for growing on slopes which are continuously more or less dry. The heavy foliage of the plants often forms a ground cover which conserves the moisture and many of them are the deep-rooted types which will thrive on sandy soils where a normal amount of water is not always available. Festuca glauca Blue Fescue Grass Gaultheria procumbens Wintergreen Helianthemum croceum (protect in winter) Rock Rose Leiophyllum Sand Myrtle Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Bearberry Arenaria caespitosa Tufted Sandwort Aster ericoides White Heath Aster Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-summer Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink Dianthus plumarius Scotch Pink PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 205 Phlox subulata Sedum stoloniferum Moss Pink Purple Stonecrop Santolina chamaecyparissus Tunica saxijraga Lavender Cotton Saxifrage-like Tunica Sedum album Vinca minor White Stonecrop Periwinkle Sedum spurium Yucca filamentosa Spreading Stonecrop Adam's Needle C. SHADY LOCATIONS. The following group of plants contains only the most common types which have proved successful for ground cover under large trees and in heavily shaded situations on lawns. It is best for most of these plants to have as a basis for their growth good soil, although some of them, such as the periwinkle and the Japa- nese spurge, will grow under extreme conditions of light soil with little moisture. For the greatest success with this list of plants they should be well moistened during dry spells. For supplementary infor- mation on ground-cover plants, in shaded locations, see sub-group No. XXXI-C. Aegopodium podagraria Mahonia repens Goutweed Creeping Mahonia Ajuga reptans Mitchella repens Bugle Partridge Berry Convallaria majalis Pachysandra caroliniana Lily-of-the-valley Carolina Spurge Cornus canadensis Pachysandra terminalis Bunchberry Japanese Spurge Evonymus obovatus Polygala paucifolia Running Strawberry Bush Milkwort Evonymus radicans acutus Polygonatum multiflorum Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy Solomon's Seal Gaultheria procumbens Sanguinaria canadensis Wintergreen Bloodroot Hedera helix lobata Sedum spurium English Ivy Spreading Stonecrop Hepatica triloba Taxus canadensis Hepatica Ground Yew Hydrophyllum appendiculatum Trillium erectum album Appendaged Water Leaf White Wake Robin Hydrophyllum virginicum Tussilagofarfara Water Leaf Colt's Foot Lysimachia nummularia Vinca minor Moneywort Periwinkle D. FERNS. There is a great variety of ferns adapted for use in different types of soil, both as a ground cover in the open and more 2O6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN dry shaded places and also in the locations where the ground is con- tinually moist. In sub-group a and sub-group b are listed the more important types of ferns which may be selected for plantings where it is desired to use ferns. a. Dry, shady places: Asplenium ebeneum Ebony Spleenwort Asplenium trichomanes Maidenhair Spleenwort Aspidium acrostichoides Christmas Fern Aspidium marginale Margined Fern b. Moist, shady places: Adiantum pedatum Maidenhair Fern Aspidium acrostichoides Christmas Fern Aspidium cristatum Dwarf Fern Aspidium goldieanum Goldie's Wood Fern Aspidium marginale Margined Fern Asplenium filix-foemina Lady Fern Camptosorus rhizophyllus Walking Fern Dennstaedtia punctilobula Hay-scented Fern Osmunda claytoniana Clayton's Fern Polypodium vulgare Polypody Woodsia obtusa Neat Fern Onoclea sensibilis Sensitive Fern Onoclea struthiopteris Ostrich Fern Osmunda cinnamomea Cinnamon Fern Osmunda regalis Royal Fern Phegopteris hexagonoptera Broad Beech Fern Woodwardia virginica Virginia Chain Fern E. EMBANKMENTS AND ROCKY SLOPES. This group consists mostly of vines and scrambling types of shrubs, together with a very few interesting hardy perennials. Banks and rocky slopes do not generally retain a considerable amount of moisture, and accordingly the material which is used should possess a vigorous constitution and low, spread- ing habit of growth, and the ability to withstand lack of moisture. The embankments which are composed of excellent heavy types of soil, and which are constantly cared for, may be covered with any of the low, spreading types of shrubs and perennials. a. Shrubs: Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Bearberry Comptonia asplenifolia Sweet Fern PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 207 Cotoneaster horizontal!* Rosa setigera Prostrate Cotoneaster Prairie Rose Genista tinctoria Rosa spinosissima altaica Dyer's Greenweed Scotch Rose Juniperus (prostrate forms) Rubus crataegifolius Red Cedar Thorn-leaved Raspberry Kalmia angustifolia Rubus deliciosus Sheep Laurel Rocky Mountain Flowering Raspberry Lonicera prostrata Rubus dumetorum Prostrate Honeysuckle European Dewberry Lonicera spinosa alberti Rubus odoratus Large-fruited Honeysuckle Flowering Raspberry Lonicera syringantha Shepherdia canadinsis Heliotrope Honeysuckle Canadian Buffalo Berry Myrica cerifera Sorbaria sorbifolia Bayberry Mountain Ash-leaved Spirea Rhus canadensis Spiraea salicifolia Fragrant Sumac Meadow-sweet Rhus copallina Spiraea tomentosa Shining Sumac Hardhack Rhus glabra Symphoricarpos vulgaris Smooth Sumac Indian-currant Rhus typhina Xanthorrhiza apiifolia Staghorn Sumac Yellow-root Zanthoxylum americanum Prickly-ash b. Perennials: Hypericum calycinum Phlox subulata Aaron's Beard Moss Pink Pachysandra terminalis Vinca minor Japanese Spurge Periwinkle c. Fines: Ampelopsis aconitifolia Evonymus radicans acutus Cut-leaved Vitis Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy Ampelopsis heterophylla Lonicera japonica halliana Asiatic Creeper Japanese Honeysuckle Ampelopsis quinquefolia Lycium halimifolium Virginia Creeper Matrimony Vine Bignonia radicans (in variety) Periploca graeca Trumpet Vine Silk Vine Celastrus orbiculatus Pueraria thunbergiana Japanese Bitter-sweet Kudzu Vine Celastrus scandens Rosa wichuraiana (in variety) American Bitter-sweet Memorial Rose Vitis coignetiae Crimson Glory Vine 208 THE COMPLETE GARDEN F. SMALL-FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR CREVICES BE- TWEEN STEPPING-STONES AND FOR PAVED TERRACE AREAS. This group consists of the very dwarf perennials and annuals which may be planted in the limited soil pockets between stepping-stones, between flagging on paved terraces, and in the narrow crevices between rock garden work. Most of the indigenous mosses which are adapted to either shady or sunny exposures can be readily transplanted to a cor- responding condition, thus providing an appearance of age during the first year. Arabis albida Rock Cress Arabis alpina Alpine Rock Cress Armeria maritima Sea Thrift Asperula odorata (in shade) Sweet Woodruff Aubrietia deltoidea Purple Rock Cress Bellis perennis English Daisy Camptosorus rhizopkyllus Walking Fern Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-summer Ceratostigma'^plumbaginoides Leadwort Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink Evonymus radicans minima Small-leaved Japanese Evergreen Ivy Goody era pubesctns Rattle-snake Plantain Iberis sempervirens Evergreen Candytuft Iris cristata Crested Iris Iris pumila Dwarf Flag Iris verna American Dwarf Iris Linnaea borealis Twin Flower Lotus corniculatus Baby's Slippers Nepeta glechoma Ground Ivy Phlox stolonifera Creeping Phlox Phlox subulata Moss Pink Polemonium re plans Greek Valerian Primula veris English Cowslip Pyxidantherj, barbulata Flowering Moss Sedum acre Mossy Stonecrop Sempervivum arachnoideum Spiderweb Houseleek Silene alpestris Alpine Catchfly Thymus serpyllum lanuginosus Downy Thyme Tiarella cordifolia Foam-flower Tunica saxifraga Saxifrage-like Tunica Veronica rupestris Rock Speedwell Veronica teucrium prostrate Speedwell Vinca minor Periwinkle Viola pedata Bird's Foot Violet G. PERENNIALS ADAPTED TO OPEN, SUNNY EXPOSURES. This small list contains perennials which will withstand extreme exposure to the sun. Most of these plants will thrive on a light, sandy soil. PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 209 Armeria maritima Sea Thrift Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-summer Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink Gaillardia aristata Blanket Flower Phlox subulata Moss Pink Sedum acre Mossy Stonecrop Sedum sexangulare Dark Green Stonecrop Sempervivum (in variety) Houseleek Veronica repens Creeping Speedwell Yucca filamentosa Adam's Needle H. GROUND COVER AMONG RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS. This group contains plants which are excellently adapted to the same kind of soil and the same kind of treatment as are the types of rhodo- dendrons and azaleas with which they are used. Many of these plants such as the lilies, hypericums, and some others, provide flowers during a portion of the season when the large shrubs are not in flower. Aronia arbutifolia Red Chokeberry Asarum canadense Wild Ginger Chamae 'daphne calyculata Leather-leaf Cotoneaster horizontalis Prostrate Cotoneaster Erythronium (in variety) Adder' s-tongue Fern (in variety) Fern. Goodyera pubescens Rattle-snake Plantain Helonias bullata Swamp-pink Houstonia caerulea Bluet Hypericum calycinum Aaron's Beard Hypericum moserianum Gold-flower Ilex glabra Inkberry Ledum groenlandicum Labrador Tea Leiophyllum (in variety) Mountain Heath Leucothoe catesbaei Catesby's Andromeda Lilium canadense Wild Yellow Lily Lilium pardalinum Panther Lily Lilium speciosum Japanese Lily Lilium superbum Turks' Cap Lily Lilium tenuifolium Siberian Coral Lily Mertensia virginica Bluebell Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Pachy sandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Pieris (in variety) Fetterbush Pyxidanthera barbulata Flowering Moss Rhodora canadensis Rhodora Shortia galacifolia Shortia Taxus canadensis Ground Yew Trillium (in variety) Wake Robin 210 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Vinca minor Viola (in variety) Periwinkle Violet Vinca minor alba Xanthorrhiza apiifolia White Periwinkle Yellow-root I. GROUND COVER AMONG ROSES. Many persons object to the bare ground existing among roses. For the best success in growing roses every opportunity should be provided for cultivating the area around each rosebush. During a portion of the season, however, this bareness of the soil can be overcome by the use of an interesting carpet, providing colour at a season of the year when the roses have passed the height of their bloom. Any ground-cover planting among roses should be watched carefully in order to eliminate the possi- bility that the ground-cover plants absorb food which should remain for the rose plants, or that they should prevent cultivation at a time when the roses need cultivating. Alyssum maritimum Portulaca grandiflora Sweet Alyssum Rose Moss Dianthus heddewigi Reseda odorata Japanese Pink Mignonette Petunia hybrida Verbena hybrida Petunia Verbena Phlox drummondi Viola cornuta (in variety) Annual Phlox Tufted Pansy Viola tricolor Pansy CHAPTER XXX GAME COVER PLANTS WHEN selecting ground-cover plants and undergrowth plants for locations which are naturally attractive to birds, especially the game birds, it is possible to provide a more inviting "sanctuary" for these birds by the use of plants which produce food either in the way of buds and foliage, or of nuts and seeds. These plants are mostly native species and many of them are not offered in the catalogs of the growers of ornamental plants. They could be easily collected where they occur locally or secured from some of the collectors of native plants. Seeds also might be easily collected and sown where they are to grow. These game cover plants should be established in areas ranging from one hundred feet square to a number of acres, to provide combined shelter and food for several kinds of birds at one time. The location of these plantings should be chosen so that they will not need to be disturbed for some years, and will also be within easy flying distance of dense woods, if possible. An ideal location would be in a clearing entirely surrounded by woods which contain hemlocks or pines or other dense shelter. Not only will such plants used as a bird-sanctuary attract our permanent bird residents such as the ruffed grouse, bob white, gold- finches, nuthatches, and chickadees, but they will attract many other seed-eating birds until the cold weather drives them south. LIST OF GAME COVER PLANTS The following group of plants are valuable for use as ground cover where there is also a chance to provide suitable shelters for game birds, especially grouse. These groups are : (A) Plants of which the buds, blossoms, and foliage are eaten by game birds, and (B) Plants of which the nuts or seeds are eaten by game birds. These are mostly native plants. 211 212 THE COMPLETE GARDEN A. Foliage, Suds, and Blossoms (Spring Cover): Acer (in variety) Maple Alnus (in variety) Alder Aster (in variety) Hardy Aster Astilbe biternata False Goat's Beard Azalea (in variety) Azalea Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Betula (in variety) Birch Corylus (in variety) Hazelnut Epigaea repens Trailing Arbutus Equisetum hyemalf! Horse-tail Rushes Fagus (in variety) Beech Heuchera (in variety) Coral-bells Kalmia (in variety) Laurel Mitchella repens Partridge Berry Ostrya virginiana Hop Hornbeam Oxalis (in variety) Wood Sorrel Picea ^in variety) Spruce Populus (in variety) Poplar Portulaca oleracea Purslane Prunus (in variety) Wild Cherry and Plum Pyrus (in variety) Crab Ranunculus (in variety) Buttercup Rubus (in variety) -^ Brambles Salix (in variety) Willow Sambucus (in variety) Elderberry Saxifraga (in variety) Stone-breaker Smilax (in variety) Greenbrier Stellaria media Chickweed Taraxacum officinale Dandelion Thalictrum (in variety) Meadow-rue Thuja (in variety) Arborvitae Trifolium (in variety) Clover Vaccinium (in variety) Blueberry Veronica (in variety) Speedwell B. Nuts or Seeds (Autumn Cover). Acer (in variety) Maple Belamcanda chinensis Blackberry Lily Bidens frondosa Sticktight Carex (in variety) Sedge Castanea (in variety) Chestnut Corylus (in variety) Hazelnut x \ Fagus americana Beechnut Geum (in variety) Avens Hamamelis virginiana Witch Hazel Helianthemum canadense Frost-weed GAME COVER PLANTS 213 Impatiens pallida Jewel-weed Lfptamnium virginianum Beechdrop Meiboma (in variety) Tick Trefoil Ostrya virginiana Hop Hornbeam Pinus rigida Pitch Pine Ficia (in variety) Vetch Polygonum persicaria Lady's Thumb Quercus (in variety) Oak Rumex acetosella Sheep Sorrel Stellaria media Chickweed Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock CHAPTER XXXI PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES WHETHER to use annuals or perennials, what perennials to use for different flowering effects, and how to take care of the perennial garden are important questions, the correct answers to which make for the success or failure of a flower garden. A flower garden in itself is the intimate companion either of those who own it and enjoy working in it, or of those who are only sufficiently interested to be thoroughly satisfied when an interesting flower effect is produced. There is no part of the field of landscape design, from the standpoint of the professional designer, from which so much criticism can arise as through the failure to produce an interesting flower garden. It is useless to discuss the question of taste, concerning the individual preferences for various colours of garden flowers; yet to everyone the successful garden im- plies a garden filled with flowers. The proper relationship between the unusual types and unusual effects becomes a secondary and yet an important consideration. The success of a perennial planting does not rest entirely with the proper selection and proper planting of perennials. A perennial garden cannot stand still. It cannot be made to-day and exist to- morrow without some care. Many gardens in which the types of plants have been selected with extra care have completely failed be- cause whoever was responsible for their subsequent maintenance has not understood the nature and requirements of the plants with which he was dealing. The general rule can be laid down for the success of any perennial garden that the one who assumes responsibility for its success must be as intimately acquainted with the plants, their habits and requirements, as with the members of one's own family. TREES, AND THEIR EFFECT ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. The old saying is true, either the flower effect of the garden or the quantity of flowers cut for house use must be greatly reduced if the same garden is to serve two purposes. It is also true that trees and desirable sorts of 214 PLATE XXXI. It is quite important in the planting of the spring garden that the designer should know those shrubs which produce flowers before the leaves appear, similar to the Carolina azalea (B), and those early-flowering shrubs which produce flowers and leaves at the same time, similar to the bladdernut (A). (See page 154, group XIX-A) PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 215 garden flowers seldom grow in nature together. Most of the garden flowering plants demand ample sunlight for their best development. For those who develop homes, and attempt the making of a flower garden on areas covered with dense shade of large trees, it is impossible to provide the ideal flower garden which one may have wished so often to possess. Trees must be sacrificed, or soil conditions will be too wet or too dry. Spreading roots from such trees will steal plant food from the garden, and sunlight so essential for the development of fine flowers will be shut out. The true garden lover who realizes that plants, like human beings, thrive only in congenial and healthful surroundings will either love and preserve his trees or will have the courage of his convictions to remove unnecessary trees and give to his flower garden ideal conditions of air and sunlight. Morning sunlight is generally considered more effective in producing plant growth than afternoon sunlight. Trees on the north side of a garden are seldom objectionable; but most trees within the garden or on the south and west side are very undesirable. Persons who are planting a perennial garden for the first time, and who are not familiar with the flowering types of perennials, should adhere, in the selection of plants, to a few hardy types of perennials, such as the iris, the phlox, the larkspur, the chrysanthemum, and the columbine, together with others shown in this list (XXXI-A). All of these, with average care, are certain to produce flowers. The more unusual types can be selected and introduced into the garden as one's knowledge of them increases. For a person who is a lover of garden flowers, and who attempts to procure definite colour combinations during different periods of the growing season, it is well to outline groups of perennials, from each of which material may be selected to produce the desired effect. We should associate perennials in groups for season and colour in order to use them most successfully. This knowledge comes only with a certain experience. There also may be plants found outside of these groups which can be used to advantage. The object in compiling these groups has been to establish a definite reference list from which the more important types can readily be found and associated in one's mind with the definite purpose for which they can be best used. Frequently, as a matter of taste, one person may desire a garden with yellows and blues predominating. Another may desire a garden with 2i6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN pinks and whites. It is essential that one should be able to readily and definitely select plants for these different purposes. The woodland wild garden becomes an important problem because the selection of material adapted to partially shaded conditions existing in such garden areas does not present the same problems as the selection of a type of material adapted to a sunny, open exposure. The term "wild garden" applies to the use of plants which can be naturalized; plants which, when once planted and given normal care during the first year, will become thoroughly acclimated and continue to grow vigorously and multiply as the years go by. In the selection of material there are two types of plants which can be selected: the tall-growing types and the low-growing types. The low-growing types are adapted for use in the more intimate, small garden areas, where the taller types should be used with great care. It must be remembered that many types of wild garden perennials, such as the day lilies, the bergamot, and the Japanese loosestrife, will multiply so rapidly that they will crowd out many of the less vigorous plants such as hepatica and spring beauty which are not able to survive such competition. Consequently it is not safe to say that material selected for wild garden areas does not require a certain amount of care after the first planting of the garden. It should also be borne very definitely in mind that plants such as the cardinal flower, some irises, the blazing star, the lily-of-the-valley, the cowslip, and the violet require partial shade and a moist condition of the soil, while such types as the bee- balm, sweet william, asters, and moss pink thrive in a much more ex- posed and lighter soil. The success of a wild garden, either large or small, depends very largely upon the proper selection of materials to produce the required effects. The development of wild garden plant- ing requires a series of years in which to complete it and bring it to perfection. It is a process, beyond a certain point, of the survival of the fittest, and the elimination finally of those plants which prove through the first few years their inability to meet the soil and exposure requirements of the local situation. A successful wild garden area never shows the amount of work that has been expended in its develop- ment, because every detail looks finally as though nature had pro- vided it without the assistance of man. Perennials for wild garden planting are not in use as much as they should be even in extensive estate development, because of the lack of knowledge concerning the ability of many of the wild flowers PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 217 to adapt themselves to these new environments. Yet this group of plants provides to those who are really interested in the development of our wild flowers an excellent source of satisfaction. In this day of large country estates with the varying types of garden conditions there is no reason why the wild garden consisting of plants which have be- come naturalized should not be as important as any other type of garden, especially to those who are real garden lovers. It is true that many of these plants, such as the varieties of the native ferns, require special conditions of the soil from a standpoint of soil texture, special conditions of the soil from the standpoint of moisture, and also special conditions of exposure concerning the question of open sunlight and the question of shade. It is unfair to expect that any plants which we attempt to naturalize in the wild garden development will continue to grow under conditions which are exactly opposite from the condi- tions of nature in which these plants have been living a "happy" exist- ence in their surroundings of soil and sunlight. The wild garden requires, more than anything else, a soil which contains plenty of humus and is commonly termed leaf mold soil. If such soil is not available then only well-rotted manure or compost should be used. No fertilizer such as sheep manure, dried blood, or other fertilizers commonly used for the forcing of plants should be applied to wild garden material. In the use of perennials another problem is often met: that of select- ing proper types for planting at the water's edge. These plants must be of the kind that will thrive with their "feet in water." The group from which selection can be made is comparatively limited, especially with reference to genera. Many of these plants, such as the lemon lily, the loosestrife, and the iris will soon spread beyond control if not carefully thinned out and kept within bounds during the succeeding years. Most of this material is adapted to growth in the open sun and will not withstand extreme shade conditions. In the selection of perennials to be used in the development of the large flower garden areas the entire field of perennials is open from which to choose. The development of a small, refined flower garden, the intimate details of which add to its charm, requires a more careful knowledge of perennials, especially of those which usage has proven cannot be safely introduced into such limited areas. These types of perennials should be avoided in the development of a small flower garden. They can be used by one who will give them consistent at- 218 THE COMPLETE GARDEN tention to keep them within bounds by staking and cutting back. Otherwise they will produce a loose, ragged effect not in keeping with the neat lines desired in a small garden, and will often crowd out inter- esting types of smaller perennials which mean more to the success of the garden. Most varieties of the hardy aster or Michaelmas daisy, the sneeze- weed, the loosestrife, and the plume poppy are too rampant and vigorous in their habit of growth to be successful in a small garden. The most important requirement in the development of any flower garden is to provide perpetual bloom throughout the growing season. There are a variety of combinations of perennials which can be used to accomplish this purpose. As illustrative of a possible range of plants it is well to list some of the thoroughly tested varieties that will grow in any good garden soil and which will provide flowers from early spring until late fall. For a person who understands plants to some extent the lists of perennials, grouped according to colour and season, will make an excellent source of reference from which to select types for continuous blooming effects. There are some perennials, among the most important of which are the peony, of which the blooming period is very short and the foliage effect during a great part of the summer may be consequently mo- notonous and uninteresting. In such plants it is highly desirable to have touches of colour throughout the later parts of the season. To accomplish this there can be introduced, among the peony plants, such types as the monkshood, the blazing star, lilies and gladioli, to provide flowers and add interest to the otherwise monotonous mass of green leaves. A considerable part of the success of any perennial flower garden is the presence of groups of perennials which present good blooming combinations. Often a garden is seen where some particular colour note attracts special attention. On close examination it is found that this effect is produced by a combination of colour brought about by the successful grouping of two or more perennials. The average garden lover cannot become familiar, from his limited study of plants, with all of the interesting types of perennials which produce colour effects that harmonize with each other. A list of these groupings has been included in this chapter, and through further study many others may be found which will be equally effective. Annuals are most often planted because of their ability to produce PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 219 flowers for cutting. Many perennials are planted for this same purpose. There are a few perennials, such as the blanket flower, ball of snow, larkspur, and marguerite, which are benefited by con- stant cutting, and the flowering season of which is lengthened through this process. There are other perennials, such as the foxglove, peony, and iris, with which the process of cutting flowers does not encourage growth of others during the same season. If such perennials are to be used for cut-flower purposes it is best to plant them in a distinct cut-flower garden. The same discussion concerning a cut-flower garden, and a flower garden as an interesting design, applies to the planting of perennials in the same manner that it applies to the planting of annuals (See Chapter XXXII, Page 238). The majority of perennials will continue to increase from year to year and will require "dividing" and transplanting every two or three years. There are other perennials which should be treated as biennials and accordingly replaced completely by new plants at the end of every second year. These plants, such as the foxglove, white pink, English daisy, and bellflower will "run out" after a period of two or three years. They will still continue to grow, but their vigour will be so much less that their presence will be but an apology for strong, healthy speci- mens. All of these plants are known as perennials; but in reality they develop only as biennials. Other perennials, such as the aster, phlox, and iris, which grow into large clumps, should be divided at least every three years. If they are not so treated they will become crowded and the plants will not have space to develop properly and the result will be spindly, unhealthy plants which will not produce normal flower effects. But the peony, in good soil, with space of a diameter of approximately three feet in which to grow, is best left to grow undisturbed for a score of years or more (Page 88). Taken on the whole, no more picturesque or graceful effects can be produced anywhere than by appropriate planting along the banks of ponds and streams. The more bold and picturesque a planting mass is, the better it looks when reflected in a still pool; while the flowing lines of a stream are supplemented by the graceful, arching branches of shrubs and vines. Among the most successful and beautiful plants for watersides are the herbaceous perennials. Perennials for planting in deep water are largely confined to the lotus and water lilies. These plants should not be permanently planted in ponds which freeze solid during the winter, nor where there is not 220 THE COMPLETE GARDEN plenty of rich soil on the bottom, and an abundance of clear water and uninterrupted sunlight. The best locations are on the margins of sluggish streams and of bays and in sheltered nooks. Water which flows too swiftly or is too cold or contains mud is not good for aquatic plants, nor should they be planted in newly constructed cement tanks which have not been thoroughly washed and rinsed so as to remove all the caustic property of the new cement. The best fertilizer for aquatic plants is cow manure, which may be mixed with twice its bulk of strong loam and used for planting beds. In the water near the margin of a pond many more sorts of aquatic and bog plants may be used, such as the native irises or flags, water plantains, bulrushes, arrowheads, and marsh marigolds. These plants are more hardy and less exacting in their requirements. In- deed, they are likely, when congenial conditions occur, to grow so luxuriantly as to prove annoying if planted in very large quantities. A rich alluvial mud provides the proper soil for most sorts, and once established where there is not too much lime in the water, or too swift a current, they will take care of themselves. For planting on the land at the water's side, a still larger list of plants is available. These include many of our common herbaceous garden perennials, such as sneeze-weed, Japanese iris, and lemon lily, as well as native herbs, such as gentians, cow parsnips, and some of our native orchids. With these perennials should be combined, if possible, some of the moisture-loving native shrubs. For this purpose nothing is bet- ter than the swamp honeysuckle, button bush, red chokeberry, rhodora, leather leaf, and wild rosemary, not to mention the more commonly known dogwoods or cornels. If no special place is assigned to perennials, room may always be found for some in the shrub border. Here there should be reluctance to place any sorts that require considerable culture or the full develop- ment of which might be desired, particularly if they be sorts that are prized. One would be loath to subject a valuable variety of the peony, for example, to a life-long competition with vigorous shrubs which, in addition to sending out more rapid-growing roots, would have the advantage of overtopping it. But there are certain types of perennials that can, in every way, be appropriately used to fill bare spaces among shrubs that do not yet cover all the space, or at the front edge of the border. Here at the edge, if the shrubs do not droop too low or are not too vigorous in their habit of growth, may be found a place for a PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 221 fine thing like the evergreen candytuft. In the edge of the shrubbery bed can always be found room for some bulbs; they really seem to prefer the slight protection of the overhanging branches and the soil around the roots of the other plants. An additional consideration is that the flowering season of bulbs is not encroached upon by the foliage of the shrubs, as would occur to the detriment of perennials that flower later in the year. Formal regularity in planting should be avoided because most perennials and bulbs appear best in small masses or clumps. In designing a border planting of perennials or annuals located at the edge of masses of shrubs an ample width of four or five feet should be allowed, especially if this is the only place for the development of a flower border. Unless this provision is made and frequent pruning of the shrubs resorted to, the branches of the shrubs even then are apt to encroach upon the smaller plants at the front. This does not, however, apply to bulbs. Where it is necessary to develop a flower border in combination with a border of shrubs which shall serve as its background, little success will follow the attempt to develop such a border, especially in relation to tall-growing shrubs, if the flower border is placed upon the north side. If the shrub border or hedge is to consist of tall and vigorous-growing shrubs or columnar trees to provide a screen against objectionable views, the designer must always remember that competition of perennials with the greedy root systems of such plants will starve the perennials. LIST OF PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES A. TYPES OF HARDY PERENNIALS FOR GENERAL USE. For the average person who is developing a small garden a knowledge of some of the standard types of hardy perennials, which are well adapted for general use, will often meet the requirements. This group contains standard types of perennials which are adapted for general use, and which with ordinary cultivation will produce interesting flower effects. Anemone japonica Chrysanthemum Japanese Windflower Chrysanthemum Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi Delphinium Hardy Marguerite Larkspur Aquilegia Dianthus Columbine Pink Aster Doronicum plantagineum Aster Leopard's Bane 222 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Iris Paeonia Iris Peony Lilium Phlox Lily Phlox Viola Violet B. PERENNIALS ACCORDING TO COLOUR AND SEASON. This, with its sub-groups, is an interesting group. The division of seasons in these groups is merely relative and is made for the purpose of obtaining some relationship in the succession of bloom throughout the growing season. Many perennials in these groups lap over from one group into the other, but for convenience of reference they are listed only in the season during which they are at their height of bloom. The subdivisions into colours of flowers, as a matter of easy reference, will prove valuable as a check on one's memory and a saving of time in being able to readily select flowers for varying colour effects at differ- ent seasons. a. Perennials for spring purple, lavender, or Hue flowers: Ajuga genevensis Mertensia virginica Erect Bugle Bluebell Anchusa italica Myosotis palustris semperflorens Italian Alkanet Forget-me-not Aquilegia caerulea hybrida Polemonium reptans Rocky Mountain Columbine Greek Valerian Aubrietia deltoidea graeca Primula denticulata Grecian Purple Rock Cress Himalayan Primrose Iris cristata Saxifraga cordifolia Crested Iris Saxifrage Iris germanica hybrids Tradescantia German Iris Spiderwort Iris pumila azurea Veronica incana European Dwarf Iris Hoary Speedwell Iris versicolor Vinca minor Dwarf Blue Flag Periwinkle Linum perenne Viola cornuta Perennial Flax Tufted Pansy Viola odorata Scented Violet b. Perennials for spring white flowers: Anemone pennsylvanica Aquilegia nivea grandiflora Canadian Windflower White Columbine Anemone sylvestris Arabis albida Snowdrop Windflower Rock Cress PLATE XXXIII. As a specimen flowering plant for early spring effect, the Japanese weeping rose-flowered cherry is extremely interesting covered, al- ways before the leaves appear, with an abundance of rose-pink flowers. (See page 154, group XIX- A) PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 223 Arabis alpina Paeonia officinalis alba Alpine Rock Cress Old-fashioned Peony Armeria maritima alba Paeonia suffruticosa White Sea Thrift Tree Peony Cerastium tomentosum Phlox subulata alba Snow-in-summer White Ground Pink Convallaria majalis Sanguinaria canadensis Lily-of-the-valley Blood root Dianthus plumarius Stellaria holostea Scotch Pink Starwort Helleborus niger Thalictrum aquilegifolium Christmas Rose Meadow-rue Iberis sempervirens Trillium grandiflorum Evergreen Candytuft Large-flowered Wake Robin Viola cornuta alba Horned Violet c. Perennials for spring pink to crimson flowers: Aquilegia canadensis Geum coccineum American Columbine Avens Aquilegia formosa hybrida Heuchera sanguinea California Hybrid Columbine Coral-bells Aquilegia hybrida Rose Queen Iris germanica Queen of May Hybrid Pink Columbine Pink German Iris Armeria maritima laucheana Paeonia officinalis Lauch's Sea Thrift Old-fashioned Red Peony Bellis perennis Paeonia suffruticosa English Daisy Tree Peony Dianthus deltoides Paeonia tenuifolia Maiden Pink Fennel-leaved Peony Dianthus plumarius Phlox stolonifera Scotch Pink Creeping Phlox Dicentra spectabilis Phlox subulata Bleeding Heart Moss Pink Geranium sanguineum Primula japonica Crane's Bill Japanese Primrose Saponaria ocymoides Rock Soapwort d. Perennials for spring yellow to orange flowers: Adonis vernalis Doronicum excelsum Pheasant's Eye Leopard's Bane Alyssum saxatile Geum heldreichi Golden Tuft Orange Avenas Aquilegia chrysantha Helianthemum croceum Gold-spurred Columbine Rock Rose Baptisia tinctoria Iris germanica fiavescens Yellow False Indigo German Iris 224 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Iris pseudacorus Primula veris Yellow Water Flag English Cowslip Iris pumila hybrida Trollius europaeus European Dwarf Iris Globe-flower Viola cornuta lutea Yellow Horned Violet e. Perennials for summer -pur-pie, lavender, or blue flowers: Baptisia australis Iris kaempferi Blue Indigo Japanese Iris Campanula carpatica Iris pattida dalmatica Carpathian Harebell Dalmatian Iris Campanula medium Iris sibirica Canterbury Bells Siberian Iris Campanula persicifolia Lobelia syphilitica Peach-leaved Harebell Blue Cardinal Flower Campanula pyramidalis Lupinus polyphyllus Chimney Bell-flower Perennial Lupin Centaurea montana Phlox paniculata Mountain Bluet variety Crepuscule Clematis davidiana variety Esperance David's Clematis variety Blue Hill (royal purple) Delphinium (in variety) var ! et y \ e ^ahdi Larkspur ne Mercie Echinops ritro ,. Globe Thistle Platycodon grandiflorum Balloon r lower Erynsium amethystinum s ^ caucasica Amethyst Sea Holly Mourning Bride caerulea Blue Plantain Lily Broad-leaved Sea Lavender Funkia fortunei Stokesia cyanea Fortune s Plantain Lily Stokes' Aster Funkia lancifolia Veronica longifolia subsessilis Spear-leaved Plantain Lily Japanese Speedwell Funkia sieboldiana Veronica spicata Siebold's Plantain Lily Spike-flowered Speedwell /. Perennials for summer white flowers: Achillea boule de neige Bocconia cordata Ball of Snow Plume Poppy Althaea rosea alba Campanula carpatica alba Hollyhock Carpathian Harebell Artemisia lactiflora Campanula medium calycanthema alba Southernwood Canterbury Bell Aruncus Sylvester Campanula persicifolia alba Goat's Beard Peach-leaved Harebell Astilbe japonica Campanula pyramidalis alba Japanese Astilbe N Chimney Bell-flower PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 225 Chrysanthemum shasta daisy Shasta Daisy Clematis recta Herbaceous Clematis Delphinium grandifiorum album Chinese Larkspur Dianthus barbatus white Sweet William Dictamnus fraxinella alba Gas Plant Filipendula hexapetala flore pleno Dropwort Funkia subcordata grandiflora Large-flowered Plantain Lily Gypsophila paniculata Baby's Breath Iris kaempferi white Japanese Iris Iris^ sibirica Snow Queen Siberian Iris Paeonia albifiora sinensis (in variety) Chinese Peony Papaver orientate white Oriental Poppy Phlox paniculata (in variety) Garden Phlox Phlox suffruticosa Miss Lingard Early-flowering Phlox Sidalcea Candida Sidalcea Yucca filamentosa Adam's Needle g. Perennials for summer pink to crimson flowers: Althaea rosea Hollyhock Astilbe davidi David's Spirea Campanula medium pink Canterbury Bells Dianthus barbatus Sweet William Dicentra eximia Wild Bleeding Heart Dictamnus fraxinella Gas Plant Digitalis purpurea rosea Pink Foxglove Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower Lychnis chalcedonica Maltese Cross Lychnis coronaria Mullein Pink Lychnis viscaria splendens Ragged Robin Lythrum salicaria roseum superbum Pink Loose-strife Monarda didyma Bergamot Paeonia albiflora sinensis Chinese Peony Papaver orientale (in variety) Oriental Poppy Pentstemon barbatus Bearded Pentstemon Phlox paniculata (in variety) Garden Phlox Physostegia virginiana False Dragon Head Pyrethrum roseum Painted Daisy h. Perennials for summer yellow to orange flowers: Achillea tomentosa Yellow Milfoil Althaea rosea yellow Hollyhock Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi Hardy Marguerite Centaurea macrocephala Knapweed Cephalaria tatarica Giant Scabiosa Coreopsis grandiflora Tickseed Coreopsis lanceolata Lance-leaved Tickseed Digitalis grandiflora Yellow Foxglove 226 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Gaillardia aristata Hypericum moserianum Blanket Flower Gold-flower Helianthus (in variety) Oenothera misspuriensis Hardy Sun-flower Missouri Primrose Heliopsis (in variety) Rudbeckia (in variety) Ox-eye Daisy Cone-flower Hemerocallis (in variety) Thalictrum adiantifolium Day Lily Maidenhair Thalictrum Thermopsis caroliniana False Lupine i. Perennials for autumn purple, lavender, or blue flowers: Aconitum (in variety) Caryopteris incana (treat as a perennial) Monkshood Blue Spirea Aster Hardy varieties Ctratostigma plumb aginoides Climax Blue Leadwort Edward VII Blue Eupatorium coelestinum Ed Beckett Blue Mist Flower Feltham's Blue Salvia azurea grandiflora novae-angliae Violet Blue Salvia tartaricus Violet (Last to bloom) Statice latifolia Broad-leaved Sea Lavender j. Perennials for autumn white flowers: Anemone japonica Caryopteris incana Candida (treat Japanese Windflower as a perennial) A-* ' i *-a Blue Spirea Artemisia lactiflora Southernwood Chrysanthemum (in variety) Hardy Chrysanthemum Ast * r variety) Eupatorium ageratoides Hardy Aster White Sna keroot Boltonia asteroides _ Hibiscus moscheutos Aster-like Boltonia Swamp Mallow Sedum (in variety) Stonecrop k. Perennials for autumn pink to crimson flowers: Anemone japonica pink Chrysanthemum (in variety) Japanese Windflower Hardy Chrysanthemum Aster (in variety) Hibiscus moscheutos Perry s Favorite Swamp Mallow St ' Egwm v VL / novae-angliae rubra Kmphofla uvana Perry's Pink Red-hot Poker Plant Boltonia latisquama Sedum (in variety) Broad-scaled Boltonia Stonecrop PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES /. Perennials for autumn yellow to orange flowers: 227 Chrysanthemum (in variety) Hardy Chrysanthemum Helenium autumnale Yellow Sneezeweed Helenium Riverton Beauty Yellow Sneezeweed Kniphofia pfitzeri Red-hot Poker Plant Solidago (in variety) Goldenrod C. PERENNIALS FOR NATURALIZING IN WILD GARDEN AREAS. This group contains two sub-groups showing types of perennials which are valuable for naturalizing in wild garden areas. Most of these plants will thrive in the open sun, as contrasted with the preceding list of plants under Chapter XXVIII. a. Tall types: Actaea alba White Baneberry Anemone pennsylvanica Canadian Windflower Aquilegia canadensis American Columbine Aquilegia vulgaris European Columbine Aruncus Sylvester Goat's Beard Asclepias tuberosa Butterfly Weed Aster cordifolius Starwort Aster Aster corymbosus Wild Aster Aster ericoides White Heath Aster Cimicifuga racemosa Snake root Digitalis purpurea Echinaceapurpurea Purple Cone-flower Eupatorium purpureum Joe-pye Weed Fern (in variety) Fern FiUpendula hexapetala Herbaceous Meadow-sweet Filipendula rubra Japanese Meadow-sweet Helianthus (in variety) Hardy Sun-flower Hemerocallis (in variety) Day Lily Hesperis matronalis Sweet Rocket Iris pseudacorus Yellow Water Flag Iris sibirica Siberian Iris Iris versicolor Dwarf Blue Flag Liatris pycnostachya Blazing Star Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower Lychnis (in variety) Catchfly Lysimachia clethroides Japanese Loose-strife Monarda fistulosa Wild Bergamot Phlox divaricata Wild Sweet William Polemonium caeruleum American Jacob's Ladder Senecio clivorum Groundsel 228 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Sidalcea Candida Solidago canadensis Sidalcea Goldenrod Smilacina racemosa Thalictrum aquilegifolium False Spikenard Meadow-rue Tradescantia (in variety) Spiderwort b. Low types: Aspidium marginale Phlox ovata Margined Fern Mountain Phlox Asperula kexaphylla Phlox stolonifera Woodruff Creeping Phlox Claytonia virginica Phlox subulata Spring Beauty Moss Pink Convallaria majalis Polemonium reptans Lily-of-the-valley Greek Valerian Hfpatica triloba Polygonatum multiflorum Hepatica Solomon's Seal Heuchera sanguined Primula (in variety) Coral-bell Primrose Iris cristata Sanguinaria canadensis Crested Iris Blood root Lamium maculatum Saponaria ocymsides Dead Nettle Rock Soapwort Mitchella repens Trillium grandiflorum Partridge Berry Large-flowered Wake Robin Myosotis palustris Tunica saxifraga Forget-me-not Saxifrage-like Tunica Oenothera biennis Viola canadensis Evening Primrose Canadian Violet Phlox divaricata Viola canina Wild Sweet William Dog-tooth Violet D. PERENNIALS FOR LONG FLOWERING PERIOD. Not only are peren- nials selected because of the colours of the flowers and other character- istics such as good blooming combinations, perpetual bloom, and good flowers, as shown in the following groups, but many times certain types are selected because of their long blooming period. Such plants as the yellow marguerite, the Shasta daisy, the blanket flower, and certain hardy phloxes, are very valuable in the garden because they produce flowers over a long blooming period, extending in instances for three or four weeks. Some of these plants require cutting back, like the larkspurs and nettle-leaved mulleins, thus causing them to pro- duce a second crop of bloom. They are all useful to insure a bridging of the gaps between the flowering period of other sorts or to plant in those places where only one, or at most a few sorts, can be used. The PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 229 tickseed, the Shasta daisy, the blanket flower, and the scabiosa all carry their bloom at intervals from June until frost, while the violet, the for- get-me-not, and the toad-flax start in .May and last until well into August. Achillea ptarmica flore plena Double Tansy Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi Hardy Marguerite Campanula carpatica Carpathian Harebell Chrysanthemum maximum King Edward Large Shasta Daisy Coreopsis lanceolata Tickseed Delphinium (in variety) Larkspur Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink Gaillardia aristata Blanket Flower Geum coccineum Avens Heuchera brizoides Red Coral-bells Knifophia uvaria Red-hot Poker Plant Lathyrus latifolius Hardy Sweet Pea Linaria dalmatica Dalmatian Toad-flax Lychnis coronaria Mullein Pink Myosotis palustris semperflorens Forget-me-not Oenothera fruticosa youngi Young's Evening Primrose Papaver nudicaule Iceland Poppy' Phlox glabsrrima suffruticosa Early Garden Phlox Scabiosa graminifolia Grass-leaved Scabiosa Scabiosa syhatica Woodland Scabiosa Tradescantia virginica Common Spiderwort Verbascum (in variety) Nettle-leaved Mullein Viola cornuta Tufted Pansy E. PERENNIALS SELDOM USED IN SMALL, REFINED, FORMAL GARDENS. This group contains a few types which should be con- sistently avoided in the development of a small, formal flower garden, where refinement of detail is the main requirement. These plants, when not given careful attention, such as staking and constant cutting back, will produce a loose, ragged effect and will crowd out many of the small types of perennials which are admirably adapted for use in small formal flower gardens. Achillea ptarmica flore pleno Double Tansy Aconitum wilsoni Wilson's Monkshood Althaea rosea Hollyhock Arundo donax Giant Reed Aster (in variety) Hardy Aster Astilbe grandis Large-flowered Astilbe Bocconia cordata Plume Poppy Boltonia asteroides Aster-like Boltonia 230 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Eupatorium (in variety) Miscanthus (in variety) White Snakeroot Plume Grass Filipendula camtschatica Physostegia virginiana Siberian Goat's Beard False Dragon Head Hflenium autumnale superbum Polygonum sachalinense Tall Sneezeweed Knotweed Helianthus (in variety) Rudbeckia laciniata Hardy Sun-flower Golden Glow Hibiscus moscheutos Rudbeckia maxima Swamp Mallow Cone-flower Liatris pycnostachya Solidago (in variety) Blazing Star Goldenrod Lythrum salicaria roseum Stenanthium robustum Pink Loose-strife Mountain Feather Fleece F. PERENNIALS TO SUPPLY "PERPETUAL BLOOM." This group of perennials will prove helpful in providing continuous bloom through- out the season. Most of these plants are the well-known, thoroughly tested kinds which will grow in any average garden soil and will combine well in their colour effects and habits of growth. By a lover of flowers, who has acquired expert knowledge of flowers, many similar groupings can be formed. Anemone japonica Gaillardia aristata Japanese Windflower Blanket Flower Aquilegia hybrida Helleborus niger Columbine Christmas Rose Aster (in variety) Hemerocallis (in variety) Hardy Aster Day Lily Soltonia asteroides Iris gtrmanica Aster-like Boltonia German Iris Chrysanthemum (in variety) Iris kaempferi Hardy Chrysanthemum Japanese Iris Chrysanthemum shasta daisy . Paeonia albiflora sinensis Shasta Daisy Chinese Peony Delphinium belladonna Phlox paniculata Everblooming Larkspur Garden Phlox Dicentra spectabilis Rudbeckia maxima Bleeding Heart Cone-flower Viola cornuta hybrida Horned Violet G. PERENNIALS FOR USE AMONG PEONIES. When peonies have completed their period of flowering there remains during the balance of the season a mass of green foliage which can often be made much more interesting by the addition of a few types of perennials which do not require any considerable space for their development, and which PLATE XXXIV. It is a source of much satisfaction to the plant designer to know that shrubs which are carefully selected for the colbur of their flowers may produce very effective colour combinations. This plate shows the St. John's Wort (A), in combination with the sweet-scented buddleia (B). PLATE XXXV. The average person who has not become interested in the colour effects produced by the fruits of our common trees and shrubs can hardly appreciate the intense colour display of the American bittersweet (A), the Washington thorn (B) and the white fringe (C). For flowers: (D) bittersweet, (E) thorn and (F) fringe. (See page 162, group XX-B) PLATE XXXVI. The garden designer must always bear in mind that many of our shrubs which produce very uninteresting flowers are the ones which pro- duce our most attractive fruiting effects. The variation in colours of the fruits ranges from the pure white of the snowberry (A), through the purple and porcelain blue of the beauty fruit (C), to the vivid reds of which the Japanese bush cranberry (B) is typical. For flowers: (D) beauty fruit, (E) snowberry, (F) Japanese bush cranberry. (See page 162, group XX-B) PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 231 will lend touches of colour to this mass of green during the summer months. Aconitum fischeri Kniphofia pfitzeri Monkshood Red-hot Poker Plant Aconitum napellus Liatris (in variety) Monkshood Blazing Star Gladiolus (in variety) Lilium (See List No. XXXIII-F) Sword Flower Lily Hyacinthus candicans Physostegia virginiana Summer Hyacinth False Dragon Head H. PERENNIALS FOR GOOD BLOOMING COMBINATIONS. The fol- lowing group contains interesting combinations of perennials which, if planted together, will produce in each case a pleasing colour effect. The perennial garden is valuable for two effects: either for a succession of bloom, or for interesting colour combinations of those flowers which bloom at the same time. The following is an endeavour to provide such combinations:* 1. Rosa foe tida harisoni and Aquilegia caerulea, blue. 2. Heuchera sanguinea, coral; Aquilegia caerulea, blue; Iris germanica Kharput, purple. 3. Paeonia festiva maxima, white; Dianthus latifolius atrococcineus, crimson; Paeonia, pink (in variety); Clematis recta, white (as background) and Dianthus bar- batus, variety "Newport", pink. 4. Iris pallida dalmatica, lavender; and Thermopsis caroliniana, yellow. 5. Cerastium tomentosum, white; Linum perenne, blue. 6. Phlox Miss Lingard, white; and Campanula persicifolia caerulea, blue. 7. Phlox Miss Lingard, white; Aquilegia chrysantha, yellow; and Heuchera sanguinea, coral. 8. Hemerocallis flava, or Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi, yellow; with Delphinium for- mosum or Baptisia australis, blue; or Iris Celeste, blue. 9. Hemerocallis fulva, orange with Clematis recta, white. 10. Coreopsis lanceolata, or Thermopsis caroliniana, yellow; with Delphinium in deep blue shades. 11. Chrysanthemum shasta daisy, white; Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi, yellow; and Delphinium belladonna, blue. 12. Delphinium belladonna or hybrids, blue; and Lilium candidum, white. 13. Anchusa italica, blue; and Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi, yellow. 14. Chrysanthemum shasta daisy, white; and Iris kaempferi in purple shades, or Dianthus Napoleon III, crimson. 15. Monarda didyma Cambridge, scarlet; and Phlox paniculata, white. 16. Phlox paniculata, pink; Lilium speciosum, white; and Veronica longifolia subsessi- lis, violet. 17. Thalictrum dipterocarpum, blue; Veronica longifolia subsessilis, violet; and Ane- mone japonica, white. *For common names refer to index and page references. 232 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 18. Veronica spicata, blue; and Oenothera missouriensis, yellow. 19. Eupatorium ageratoides, white; and Helenium Riverton Beauty, yellow and black. 20. Eupatorium ageratoides, white; and Chrysanthemum, Glory of Seven Oaks, yellow. 21. Buddleia (in variety), lilac, lavender, violet, purple; and Anemone japonic a, white or pink. 22. Anemone japonica, white and pink; and Aconitum autumnale, blue. 23. Aster Climax, blue; and Helenium Riverton Beauty, yellow and black. I. PERENNIALS VALUABLE FOR CUT FLOWERS. The perennial cut- flower garden should provide an abundance of cut flowers. Most of the perennials in this group will provide flowers which can be cut for house use and which have lasting qualities. There are many perennials which do not produce masses of flowers of sufficient substance to be effective when cut for house use. Achillea boule de neige Gaillardia aristata Ball of Snow Blanket Flower Anemone japonica Gypsophila paniculata Japanese Windflower Baby's Breath Aquilegia (long-spurred hybrids) Helianthus (in variety) Columbine Hardy Sun-flower Aster novae-angliae Climax Heuchera sanguinea Blue Hardy Aster Coral-bells Astilbe japonica Iris germanica Japanese Astilbe German Iris Boltonia asteroides Iris kaempferi Aster-like Boltonia Japanese Iris Centaurea montana Kniphofia uvaria Mountain Bluet Red-hot Poker Plant Chrysanthemum (in variety) Paeonia (in variety) Chrysanthemum Peony Chrysanthemum shasta daisy Physostegia virginiana Shasta Daisy False Dragonhead Convallaria majalis Phlox paniculata Lily-of-the-valley Garden Phlox Coreopsis lanceolata Primula (in variety) Lance-leaved Tickseed Primrose Delphinium (in variety) Pyrethrum roseum Larkspur Painted Daisy Dianthus barbatus Rudbeckia (in variety) Sweet William Cone-flower Digitalis (in variety) Scabiosa caucasica Foxglove Mourning Bride Eupatorium coelestinum Stokesia cyanea Mist Flower Stokes' Aster Veronica (in variety) Speedwell PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 233 J. PERENNIALS WHICH SHOULD BE TREATED AS BIENNIALS. There are certain plants generally known as perennials which will "run out" in the average garden after a period of two to three years. They may still continue to grow, but after the first two years they are much less vigorous. The plants in this group should be planted with the idea that at the end of two years the old plants will be re- moved and new ones put into their places. Antirrhinum majus Hedysarum coronarium Snapdragon French Honeysuckle Bellis perennis Lunaria annua English Daisy Honesty Campanula medium Lychnis alba Canterbury Bells White Pink Campanula pyramidalis Lychnis coronaria Chimney Bell-flower Mullein Pink Dianthus barbatus Lychnis dioica Sweet William Red Campion Digitalis purpurea Viola cornuta Foxglove Tufted Pansy Glaucium luteum Viola tricolor Yellow Horned Poppy Pansy K. PERENNIALS TO BE TRANSPLANTED FREQUENTLY. There are certain perennials which require special attention for their best devel- opment. The perennials in this group should be taken up, divided, and replanted every two or three years, as they grow more vigor- ously and multiply faster than the other groups of perennials. a. To be divided every two years: Anemone japonica Lychnis coronaria Japanese Windflower Mullein Pink Aquilegia Monarda didyma Columbine Bergamot Chrysanthemum (hardy, large- D / \ flowered varieties) P % oma 4 ft. * o tigrinum splen- dens August C Apricot, yellow with dark spots 3 to 4 ft. * + elegans wallacci Deep orange yellow, darker protuber- ances 4 to 8 ft. * o henryi August, Sept. B * o speciosum al- bum August, Sept. B Pure white 3 ft. * o speciosum ru- brum August, Sept. B Rose coloured 3ft- * o speciosum mel- pomene August, Sept. B Dark crimson purple 3ft- * o tigrinum for- tunei August, Sept. B Red, heavily spotted 4 ft. b. Easy culture in garden soil: Lilium auratum Gold-banded Lily Lilium candidum Madonna Lily Lilium croceum Alpine Lily Lilium philadelphicum Wild Red Lily Lilium regale Regal Lily c . Moist and boggy locations: Lilium canadense Wild Yellow Lily Lilium parryi Parry's Lily Lilium parvum Sierra Nevada Lily Lilium tenuifolium Coral Lily Lilium tigrinum Tiger Lily Lilium speciosum (especially variety rubrum) Showy Lily Lilium wallacei Wallace's Thunbergian Lily Lilium roezli Santa Cruz Lily 'Lilium pardalinum Leopard Lily Lilium superbum American Turk's Cap Lily HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 257 d. Calcareous soil: Lilium candidum Lilium monadelphum Madonna Lily Caucasian Lily Lilium hansoni Lilium martagon Golden Turk's Cap Lily European Turk's Cap Lily Lilium testaceum Nankeen Lily e. Open sunny positions: Lilium candidum Lilium martagon Madonna Lily European Turk's Cap Lily Lilium croceum Lilium monadelphum Alpine Lily Caucasian Lily Lilium elegans Lilium tigrinum Thunbergian Lily Tiger Lily Lilium philadelphicum (best of all) Wild Red Lily /. Undergrowth under shrubs and small trees: Lilium speciosum (all sorts) Showy Lily g. Sandy or dry soils: Lilium bolanderi Lilium philadelphicum Boland's Lily Wild Red Lily Lilium carolinianum Southern Swamp Lily h. Clay soil: Lilium candidum Lilium hansoni Madonna Lily Golden Turk's Cap Lily Lilium croceum Lilium monodelphum Alpine Lily Caucasian Lily Lilium elegans Lilium tigrinum Thunbergian Lily Tiger Lily Lilium philadelphicum Wild Red Lily i. Shady locations: Lilium auratum Lilium japonicum Gold-banded Lily Japanese Lily Lilium hansoni Lilium parryi Golden Turk's Cap Lily Parry's Lily Lilium henryi Lilium washingtonianum Yellow Showy Lily Washington Lily CHAPTER XXXIV VINES VINES constitute a small but important group of plants possessing certain characteristics which are very valuable for use in landscape design. The annual vines develop to maturity and must be started again each season from seed. Perennial vines, once firmly established, continue to increase indefinitely, at least during a period of years. Many vines, such as the wisteria and ivies, are seen on buildings hun- dreds of years old and, in general, the average long-lived vine will out- live its period of usefulness on any building, especially on wooden structures, which are subject to decay and to periodical repairs. To many people a "vine is a vine" without any differentiation as to its usefulness. As a matter of fact, vines may be divided into certain definite groups which are valuable for different purposes. The knot- weed, honeysuckle, and climbing roses represent a group which are very desirable for their flowering effect. It often happens that vines are desired, not so much for their screen effects as for the effect of pro- ducing flowers within a limited space, and thus adding spots of beauty to otherwise unattractive and monotonous surfaces. It is quite necessary in selecting vines for use on brick work, stone and masonry surfaces, that the method of growth of such vines should be fully understood. Those vines which grow upon fences and lattice work are either scramblers or twiners or they grow by means of ten- drils, as do the Virginia creeper and the grape. None of these vines are adapted for use on brick work and masonry surfaces. There is a group of vines which grow and cling to these surfaces by means of little growths, at intervals along their stems, the tips of which, as soon as they come in contact with any surface, produce a sticky fluid that immediately "cements" the vine to the wall. In the case of the Bos- ton ivy the little tendril, at the tip of which is the adhesive substance, has a tendency to contract in the manner of a twisted cord and thus pull the stem closer to the wall. This is a peculiar provision of nature. This list of vines is comparatively small and is represented generally 258 VINES 259 by the Boston ivy, English ivy, and the climbing evonymus or Japa- nese evergreen ivy. The ivies in general are much more rapid growers than the evonymus. There is one group of vines which possesses a very vigorous climbing habit and develops a heavy foliage, such as the Dutchman's pipe, Virginia creeper, kudzu vine, and the knotweed. Of this list of vines the American bitter-sweet and the Dutchman's pipe possess an inter- esting heavy foliage. Vines are valuable not only for their flowering effect but they are valuable for the effect of their fruit also. Some vines, such as the matrimony vine, with its brilliant orange fruit, and the American bitter-sweet, with its red and orange fruit, together with the Virginia creeper, with its interesting blue fruit, are valuable in a landscape set- ting far into the winter months. Oftentimes local conditions require the selection of a permanent vine with a fast growing habit. It may not be advisable to use annuals, but rather to use a more permanent type and accordingly the designer resorts to such plants as the Dutchman's pipe, the knotweed, and the kudzu vine, which under normal conditions will make a growth ranging from ten to forty feet in a single season. The knotweed is not entirely hardy in severe exposures and the young plants should not be planted in the open ground before the latter part of May. In general, vines fill a gap in the field of landscape planting which cannot be filled with shrubs. Where conditions develop in which only a limited space is available for foliage, flower and fruiting effects, vines must be accepted as the logical solution of the planting problem. A quite common mistake in the use of vines is to select types which are too fast growing or which are not adapted to the special purpose for which they are used. A common mistake also is that of covering interesting pieces of brick work and stone masonry with vines which completely obscure the beauty of the architectural detail. Vines should be used on buildings to emphasize the architectural detail; otherwise there is little use in spending sums of money to produce added beauty in architecture if such detail is immediately to be covered with vines. We often see an elevation of a house on which appears a chimney with the entire surface of the house and chimney covered with vines. In such instances the vines, for the purpose of architectural composition, should be planted only on the chimney or on the surfaces at either side of the chimney and not on the chimney. 26o THE COMPLETE GARDEN Many persons object to the use of certain types of vines such as the Virginia creeper and the ivies, which form a beautiful roosting place for sparrows immediately opposite sleeping-room windows, and for such locations a type of vine similar to the evonymus should be used, which does not provide a shelter for these pests. LIST OF VINES The vines included in the groups of this list are respectively valuable for their ability to produce flowers, for their use on brick and stone masonry, for foliage effect, for fruiting characteristics, and for their fast growing characteristics. Certain vines may be included in one or more groups because of the value of certain characteristics in each group. It should be remembered that the distinction between vines of different types for different purposes is equally as marked as the differ- ence in shrubs and perennials. A. Flowering: Actinidia arguta Lonicera (in variety) Dark-leaved Silver Vine Honeysuckle Aristolochia sipho Polygonum baldschuanicum Dutchman's Pipe Knotweed Bignonia radicans Quamoclit pinnata Trumpet Vine Cypress Vine Clematis (in variety) Rosa (in variety) Clematis Climbing Rose Lathryus latifolius Wisteria (in variety) Hardy Sweet Pea Wisteria B. Use on Brick, Stone, and Masonry: Ampelopsis engelmanni Bignonia radicans Engelmann's Ampelopsis Trumpet Vine Ampelopsis tricuspidata lowi Evonymus radicans Lowe s Boston Ivy Climbing Evonymus Ampelopsis tricuspidata veitchi Hedera helix Boston Ivy English Ivy Schizophragma hydrangeoides Climbing Hydrangea C. Climbing Habit and Heavy Foliage: Actinidia (in variety) Aristolochia sipho Silver Vine Dutchman's Pipe Ampelopsis quinquefolia Bignonia radicans Virginia Creeper Trumpet Vine VINES 261 Celastrus scandens American Bitter-sweet Clematis paniculata Japanese Clematis Clematis virginiana Wild Clematis Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Lonicera (in variety) Honeysuckle Periploca graeca Silk Vine Pueraria thunbergiana Kudzu Vine Wisteria (in variety) Wisteria D. Fruiting: Actinidia (in variety) Silver Vine Akebia quinata Five-leaved Akebia Ampelopsis aconitifolia Cut-leaved Vitis Ampelopsis heterophytta Asiatic Creeper Ampelopsis quinquefolia Virginia Creeper Celastrus orbiculatus Japanese Bitter-sweet Celastrus scandens American Bitter-sweet Clematis paniculata Japanese Clematis Clematis virginiana Wild Clematis Lycium halimifolium Matrimony Vine Rosa (in variety) Climbing Rose Solanum dulcamara Woody Nightshade E. Fast Growing: Actinidia (in variety) Silver Vine Ampelopsis aconitifolia Cut-leaved Vitis Ampelopsis heterophylla Asiatic Creeper Aristolochia sipho Dutchman's Pipe Bignonia radicans Trumpet Vine Clematis paniculata Japanese Clematis Humulus japonicus Japanese Hop Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Periploca graeca Silk Vine Pueraria thunbergiana Kudzu Vine Polygonum baldschuanicum Knotweed CHAPTER XXXV STRICTLY speaking, window boxes do not come under the category of planting or designing the grounds, but in a vital way they serve to tie the house to the lawn and gardens and thus help to produce the immediate effect of a harmonious whole. Particularly are they valuable in imparting a cozy and "lived-in" atmosphere to a new house. Many otherwise uninteresting houses have been made very attractive through the use of window boxes. A severe type of archi- tecture demands a window-box treatment developed with the heavier kinds of foliage plants such as English ivy, geraniums, and fuchsias, while a lighter architectural design requires vincas, snapdragons, and ageratums. The selection of plants for successful window boxes must be the result of some study of the effect to be produced and the kinds of materials necessary to produce the effect. Not all of our plants can be used in window-box planting. Plants for this purpose must retain their foliage throughout the summer, the period of bloom must continue for a number of weeks, and the normal growth of the plant should not be impaired by crowding the root development within a small area. Two cardinal principles apply to the design and use of window boxes. Never put window boxes on a building unless the architectural composition requires them, and do not select for them plants which are out of scale with the architectural detail. When planning the window boxes the effect of the colour scheme should be considered from the inside of the various rooms in the house as well as the effect upon the aspect of the house itself. There are numerous possibilities outside of the conventional boxes planted with periwinkle, geraniums, and daisies. Almost any of the showy dwarf-growing annuals may be used and the opportunity for various colour schemes with them is practically endless. If bright colour is needed the dwarf, giant-flowering snapdragon, which comes in many brilliant shades and grows about twelve inches 262 WINDOW BOXES AND HANGING BASKETS 263 high, is good. The dwarf zinnia is perhaps even more brilliant in its various colours. It is also stiffer in its habit of growth and conse- quently better for a windy location. California poppies can be had in all shades of yellow and orange and could be used with nicotiana for a white and yellow box. Another good combination is blue lobelia, pink verbena, and asparagus fern. Care should be taken to select the flowers which will bloom simul- taneously. Foliage plants should be used to provide an abundance of green, and enough vines and flowers of a drooping habit should be in- troduced to counteract the stiffness of the box. When planting, pack the roots in firmly on account of the wind. For an unusually windy position it is best to use a deeper box. In choosing the plants, exposure is the first important consideration. (See the following lists.) For sunny positions the more vigorous growing and flowering plants are apt to do best, while in shade ferns and foliage plants, generally speaking, are more successful. In a dusty location smoother-leaved plants such as myrtle and ivy geraniums should be used. Inside window boxes should get sunshine and plenty of fresh air but must never be placed in a draft. The temperature for the average house plant is between 55 at night to 70 in the daytime. The plants should be watered regularly and the foliage sprayed two or three times a week, with the exception of those plants with fuzzy foliage, such as gloxinia, where moisture upon the leaves would cause decay. Hang- ing baskets should be lined with moss in order to retain their moisture. The soil used in all window boxes must be rich, as the roots are so crowded and ample plant food must be available. A good soil mix- ture for this purpose is two parts garden loam, one part rotted leaf mold, and one part sand, mixed with one part well-rotted manure. This mixture can be procured from any florist. As the box becomes filled with roots it is necessary to furnish food to the plants by working into the soil a small amount of bone meal or well-rotted manure every week or ten days. The box may be constructed of various materials: concrete, terra cotta, or wood. The inside measurements for a window box should be six inches to eight inches deep and ten inches to twelve inches wide. The outside measurements should be fourteen inches wide and one inch shorter than the window or space it is to occupy. A very long box can be made in sections averaging three feet to four feet in length, 264 THE COMPLETE GARDEN to facilitate the handling of it. Three-quarter inch holes should be bored in the bottom of the box every twelve inches, to provide drainage. A zinc or galvanized iron lining in a wooden box is desirable but not absolutely necessary. However, if a lining is not used it is best to have the inside of the box charred to prevent rotting of the wood. This is done by washing the inside, both bottom and sides, with kero- sene and then lighting the oil and allowing it to burn until a thin charred coating is formed. The box is turned upside down to smother the flames. The most permanent types of window boxes are lined with copper. All boxes, whether or not they are lined, must be provided with holes for drainage. The absence of these holes may cause the soil to become sour from overwatering, a condition which is avoided when drainage is provided. , A. WINDOW BOXES. The following group of plants are those adapted for window boxes in varying exposures of sunlight. These plants should not be placed in window boxes which cannot be thor- oughly drained unless great care is exercised in watering; otherwise the soil will become sour and the plants will be "drowned out." a. South or west exposure: Ageratum houstonianum (dwarf) Hfdera helix Floss Flower English Ivy Antirrhinum (intermediate or dwarf) Heliotropium peruvianum Snapdragon Heliotrope Codiaeum (in variety) Lobelia Croton Annual Lobelia Dracaena indivisa Maurandia (in variety) Dracena Maurandy Vine Geranium S. H. Nutt Nepeta glechoma Cardinal Geranium Ground Ivy Geranium Bruant Pelargonium peltatum Scarlet Geranium Ivy-leaved Geranium Geranium Beaute Poitevine Phlox drummondi Salmon Double Geranium Drummond's Phlox Swainsona galegifolia Swainsonia b. East exposure: Antirrhinum (dwarf or intermediate) Dracaena indivisa Snapdragon Dracena Begonia (tuberous-tooted) Ferns Tuberous Begonia Many varieties WINDOW BOXES AND HANGING BASKETS 265 Heliotropium peruvianum Petunia hybrida. Heliotrope Petunia Linaria cymbalaria Solanum jasminoides Kenilworth Ivy Jerusalem Cherry Vine Pelargonium peltatum Chas. Turner Tropaeolum majus Ivy-leaved Geranium Nasturtium V inca major (variegated) Trailing Vinca c. North exposure: Ageratum houstonianum (dwarf) Fuchsia (in variety) Floss Flower Trailing Fuchsia Asparagus sprengeri Ipomoea (in variety) Asparagus Fern Morning Glory Caladium (small leaf varieties) Nepeta glechoma Elephant's Ear Ground Ivy Fern Petunia hybrida Boston Fern Petunia Vinca major (variegated) Trailing Vinca B. HANGING BASKETS. The group of plants adapted for use in hanging baskets is much larger than might at first be anticipated. The great danger in the cultivation of plants in hanging baskets is the danger of drying out. a. Vine-like habit: Asparagus sprengeri Nepeta glechoma Asparagus Fern Ground Ivy Cobaea scandens Oxalis floribunda Cup and Saucer Vine Oxalis Fuchsia procumbens Passiflora caerulea Trailing Fuchsia Passion Flower Hedera helix Petunia hybrida English Ivy Petunia Ipomoea (in variety) Saxifraga sarmentosa Morning Glory Strawberry Geranium Lantana (in variety) Senecio scandens Lantana Summer Ivy Linaria cymbalaria Solanum jasminoides Kenilworth Ivy Jerusalem Cherry Vine Lobelia speciosa Thunbergia alata Lobelia Thunbergia Lysimachia nummularia Tropaeolum majus Moneywort Nasturtium Maur&ndia (in variety) Verbena hybrida Maurandy Vine Verbena Vinca major (variegated) Trailing Vinca 266 THE COMPLETE GARDEN b. Upright habit and good flowers: Begonia (tuberous varieties) Tuberous Begonia Cuphea llavea Cigar Plant Fuchsia (in variety) Ladies' Eardrop Geranium (in variety) Geranium Impatient sultana Touch-me-not Lantana (in variety) Lantana Nierembergia gracilis White Cup Petunia hybrida Petunia Salvia splendens Scarlet Sage Stevia serrata nana Dwarf Stevia c. Upright habit and good foliage: Aspidistra lurida Tall Evergreen Aspidistra Caladium Elephant's Ear Cineraria maritima Dusty Miller Coleus blumei verschaffelti Coleus Cyperus alternifolius Umbrella Plant Dracaena indivisa Dracena Fern (in variety) Iresine lindeni Narrow-leaved Achyranthes Palms (in variety) CHAPTER XXXVI BULBS THIS is a type of planting which can provide as many interesting flower effects as any annual, perennial, or shrub planting. It is the type of planting that provides flowers at a period of the year from late March until the latter part of May, when the garden and lawn are otherwise bare of flowers. The information concerning this group of plantings covering the possible types to be used, the effects to be ob- tained, and the care of the mature plants, has not been so freely dis- tributed to the owners of our homes as it should have been. After the monotonous, uninteresting landscape presented by the lawn and garden areas in the vicinity of residences during the long winter months, these touches of flower effects are of double value as an introduction to the possibilities of the flowering shrubs and garden plants. So important is this subject that an entire chapter of this book, Chapter VI, has been devoted to the culture of bulbs. It is the general impression that "bulbs are bulbs" for practically one use. It is not realized that such a wide variation exists in the purposes for which bulbs may be used and in the different types of bulbs which are used. As a matter of fact, with the proper planting of bulbs, a continuous succession of flowers can be obtained during a normal season from the middle part of March, beginning with the crocuses and the early narcissi, extending through the early part of May, with the early tulips and the late narcissi, and ending with the Darwin tulips during the last part of May to be immediately followed by such garden flowers as the early iris, the columbine, the alyssum, and the lilac. There are bulbs which are logically adapted to refined lawn and garden areas, bulbs which are adapted for naturalizing in woodlands and wild gardens, interesting combinations of bulbs, and types of bulbs valuable for forcing during the late winter months. The life of the average bulb under normal conditions is approximately three years after which time the bulbs must be replaced with new material; the 267 268 THE COMPLETE GARDEN only exception being that such bulbs as those of the crocus and three varieties of narcissi, Von Sion, Victoria, and the poet's, will continue to multiply under ideal conditions for a number of years, provided the tops are permitted to remain a sufficient time after flowering in order to ripen the bulb. In the selection of bulbs for garden plantings we have practically the entire field from which to draw for material adapted to the refined lawn and garden planting. The degree of refinement depends largely upon our knowledge of the proper combinations of bulbs which will give interesting flower effects, flowers that appear at the same and at suc- cessive dates, and flowers of the same height. In making plantings of bulbs for lawn and garden effects careful attention should be given to the other groups showing narcissi for different locations, and the interesting tulip combinations. One of the most interesting groups of bulbs is the group valuable for naturalization in woodland and wild garden areas. These bulbs must be of the kind that will continue to multiply without further care than is ordinarily given to such areas on the average estate. All of the bulbs in this list should, after being properly planted, grow in succeeding years into clumps through the increase of the small bulblets, and the mature plants should be almost as vigorous as during the first year or two after the bulbs were planted. In other words, they should not show a tendency to run out. Occasionally, unless conditions are ideal, such plants as the trillium and some of the lilies will continue to grow but will not multiply. This is a freak of plant life which those who have given considerable thought to experimenting in the natural- ization of plants cannot fully explain. Many of the bulbs in this group such as the yellow lily leek, lily-of-the-valley, adder's tongue, and trillium, desire a great amount of shade. The other bulbs such as lilies, narcissi, squills, and tulips require more sunlight. It is well to know the adaptations of different varieties of the nar- cissus. The writer has accordingly referred to this in passing, and we should bear closely in mind the fact that the poet's narcissus, with its varieties, is adapted to the heavy lower ground, while the large trumpet types are adapted to a rich, well-drained loam. The proper selection of combinations of bulbs for flowering effects, either simultaneous flow- ering or a succession of bloom, is one of the interesting studies in bulb plantings. So many extremely interesting effects can be obtained with a proper selection and planting, and so many uninteresting BULBS 269 flowering effects can be avoided, that a few standard types of bulb combinations have been shown under this discussion. Bulbs are divided into the early-flowering types, most of which are single, and the late-flowering types among which are the Darwin tulips, most of which grow twice as tall as the early flowering. There are so many varieties of tulips and such a confusion of nomenclature that to lay down definite rules and to frame ironclad lists of bulbs would be futile. It is sufficient to suggest that bulbs for excellent plantings should be selected and grouped by an expert, or that sources of expert infor- mation should be consulted in order to insure the proper effects. So often, for example, yellow and white or orange and yellow tulips are planted for a combination of flower effect, when in reality one of the bulbs is of the early-flowering type and the other variety is of the late- flowering type, neither of which will be in bloom during the blooming period of the other. To avoid mistakes of this kind, and for the use of the amateur who has no ready access to the sources of information, nor the time to devote the necessary study to this question, a number of bulb combinations have been given which will serve to meet the average requirements. As a matter of fact, bulbs planted for their individual flowers fall far short of providing the most interesting effect. They should be planted for their mass effect and as an interesting com- bination of colour. Bulbs may be planted either for a formal or for an informal and more natural effect. The first planting requires the stiff symmetrical lines of refined lawn and garden areas; the second effect requires the more informal, flowing lines, either of the refined lawn areas or of the in- formal garden areas. It is quite a matter of taste which of these effects should be desired. Many persons desire the conventional, un- interesting ribbon boundary bordering the edges of shrubbery, while others desire the more natural, scattered mass effect which gives here and there a spot of colour and a certain relief to the bare effect of the shrubbery plantings prior to the time of breaking their buds, and also to the ground underneath. It is important to know the time of flowering for various types of bulbs in order that the late-flowering types, such as the Darwin tulips, may not be scattered through a shrub planting of the bridal wreath spirea, or the early honeysuckle, where the full leaf effect will obscure the flower effect of the bulbs. Not every variety of bulb is suitable for forcing purposes. A few varieties of bujb are extremely suitable . while a few of the varieties 270 THE COMPLETE GARDEN of the crocus and of the Spanish iris can be forced successfully only under the most favourable conditions of heat and light. Some of the early tulips are preeminently good for forcing while some varieties are not adapted to this method of growing them. Many of the cottage tulips and nearly all the Darwins can be used successfully. All hyacinths, some more than others, and many narcissi are satisfactory. But before trying varieties not named in the list one should consult a reliable trade catalogue. For early forcing particular care should be used to select large, plump bulbs. LIST OF BULBS A. REFINED LAWN AND GARDEN AREAS. This group contains only the standard types and varieties of bulbs from which to select material for the average planting. There are hundreds of varieties of bulbs which may be used with more or less success; but this list is intended to be merely a safe guide to the beginner. Chionodoxa luciliae Narcissus barri Glory-of-the-Snow Short Cup or Trumpet Daffodil Crocus (fall blooming) Narcissus incomparabilis Crocus Medium Trumpet Daffodil Crocus (spring blooming) Narcissus leedsi Crocus White Daffodil Galanthus elwesi Narcissus poeticus Giant Snowdrop Poet's Narcissus Hyacinthus (in variety) Narcissus Trumpet major Hyacinth Long Trumpet Daffodil Muscari botryoides Scilla sibirica Grape Hyacinth Siberian Squill Narcissus (double) Tulipa (in variety) Narcissus Tulip B. NATURALIZING IN WOODLAND AND WILD GARDENS. Bulbs valuable for naturalization in woodland and wild garden areas must be of the kind which will continue to increase without further care than is ordinarily given to such an area. All of the material in this group, except the gold-banded lily, may be expected, after being prop- erly planted, to continue with the succeeding years to become thicker in growth and still remain nearly as vigorous as when first planted, Allium moly Convallaria majalis Yellow Lily Leek Lily-of-the-valley Camassia esculenta Eranthis hyemalis Wild Hyacinth Winter Aconite BULBS 271 Erythronium americanum Narcissus poeticus Adder's tongue Poet's Narcissus Frittilaria meleagris Narcissus leedsi amabilis Guinea-hen Flower Short-cupped White Daffodil Leucojum vernum carpaticum Narcissus Trumpet Major Snowflake Long Trumpet Daffodil Lilium auratum Ornithogalum umbellatum Gold-banded Lily Star of Bethlehem Lilium canadense Scilla campanulata Wild Yellow Lily Squill Lilium candidum Trillium erectum Madonna Lily Wake Robin Lilium philadelphicum Trillium grandifiorum Wild Red Lily Large-flowered Wake Robin Lilium speciosum Tulipa clusiana Showy Lily Lady Tulip Lilium tigrinum Tulipa greigi Tiger Lily Early-flowering Red Tulip Tulipa kaufmanniana Early Tulip C. NARCISSI FOR DIFFERENT LOCATIONS. In moist, well-drained loam use the large trumpet types. In heavier, damper, lower ground use the poeticus and double gardenia-flowered form. In warmer climates, on damp, moist soil, use the double daffodil. In rockeries use the hoop-petticoat, cyclamen-flowered, and triandrus sections. D. TULIP COMBINATIONS. The most interesting effect can be obtained from the planting of tulips when study and thought are given to the colour effects of the flowers. Many interesting plantings of tulips have been completely spoiled from the standpoint of the land- scape effect in a garden and on a lawn because sufficient thought has not been given to the relationship between the colours of the flowers and the season of bloom. It sometimes requires a complementary colour or a contrasting colour to make the most interesting flower effect. There are many tulip combinations which may be selected, but the following are a few which may be used as a guide: a. Single: ( Jeannette (crimson red, edged old rose) ( Kohinoor (crimson red, purplish bloom) I Rose precoce (creamy white) < Rose Aplati (blush white, edged salmon ( rose) ( Primrose Queen (primrose edged canary Jueen of the Netherlands (pale rose) ] yellow) T an Berghem (carmine red) ( Wouverman (dark purple) 272 THE COMPLETE GARDEN j Goldfinch (chrome yellow) ( Lady Boreel (snowy white) } Princess Helena (pure white) K Joost Van Vondel (cherry red flaked \ Chrysolora (clear golden yellow) ' white ) \ Dusart (vermilion red) tf* ** -ft ''*/ jjj\( R se Aplati (white edged salmon rose) \ g?, en L">n(pnmrose yellow, edged red) } Jaune A lad (sulphur llow flushed le ( White Hawk (pure white) ) ros A ( Primrose Queen (primrose edged canary yellow) ( Princess Wilhelmina (deep pink) A trifle (five to six days) later than the above are: j Golden Horn (primrose yellow) ( LeReve (old rose flushed buff) ( Rosa Mundi Huyckman (rose pink) < White Swan (pure white) ( L'Interessante (dark violet) b. Double: Not as graceful as single. Heavy rains quickly bend over or break the stems of the huge blooms. A trifle later than singles : j Lac van Haarlem (rosy violet) ( LeMatador (glowing scarlet) \ Safrano (pale sulphur yellow) ( Schoonoord (white sport from Murillo) C Sweetheart (white, slightly tinged pale j Boule de Niege (pure white) rose) \ Couronne d'Or (deep yellow) ( Don Carlos (glowing crimson) ( Blue Celeste (violet purple) j Rose d'Amour (pale flesh rose) \ Yellow Rose (yellow) \ Salvator Rosa (deep rose, flushed white) c. Cottage: ( Carnation (white, margined rose) ( Picotee (white, margined rose) j Solferino (pale yellow) -j Inglescombe Pink (rosy pink) ( Fairy Queen (rosy lilac) ( Doris (rosy lilac) ( Moonlight (canary yellow) ^ Twilight (mauve) ( Bouton d'Or (deep yellow) d. Darwins: ( Chestnut (dark mahogany) ( Franz Hals (reddish heliotrope) < Clara Butt (rose) < Princess Juliana (American beauty) ( Europa (light American beauty) ( Dream (pale heliotrope) C Yolande (soft rose) ( Gretchen (pale pink) ) La Tulipe Noire (purple black) j Clara Butt (rose) j Reverend Ewbank (lavender) ( Crepuscule (lilac) (.Europa (bright rose) BULBS 273 E. BEST VARIETIES FOR FORCING. The following bulbs are good varieties for forcing. A few kinds (see Group b) will flower if kept in bowls of water with enough pebbles to hold them upright. a. Forcing in soiL Tulips early single: Due Van Tholl (various colours) Duchesse de Parma (crimson with yellow margin) Chrysolora (yellow) Cottage Maid (pink) Flamingo (pink) Vermilion Brilliant (scarlet) Joost van Vondel (striped, red and white) Proserpine (deep rose with metallic petals) Medium-flowering tulips: Thomas Moore (orange) Yellow Prince (yellow) White Swan (white) Rose Grisdelin (pink) Pottebakker (scarlet, yellow, and white) Couleur Cardinal (dark crimson) Double tulips for forcing: Boule de Neige (white) Murillo (pink) Crown of Gold (yellow) Imperator Rubrorum (scarlet) Cottage Tulips: Bouton d'Or (chrome yellow) Carnation (white margined carmine) Elegans alba (creamy white) Fairy Queen (rosy lilac) Inglescombe Pink (soft rosy pink) La Candeur (silvery white) Striped Beauty (silvery rose) Vitellina (primrose to creamy white) Darwin Tulips: For late February or early March: Bartigon (deep red) Pride of Haarlem (purple rose) William Copeland (lavender) William Pitt (dark red) Rev. H. Ewbank (light lavender) For late March and early April: All names in above Dream (dark lilac) Europe (vivid red) Massachusetts (silvery pink) White Queen (white, flushed pink) Harry Veitch (brown red) Princess Elizabeth (deep pink) Psyche (pink) Sieraad van Flora (vivid rose) Farnecombe Sanders (fiery scarlet) Mme. Krelage (dark pink) For late April or early May: Clara Butt (shell pink) Baronne de la Tonnaye (bright rose) Gretchen (soft pink) Loveliness (bright rose) Nora Ware (lilac) Hyacinths (in order of earliness): Garibaldi (deep crimson) Hein Roozen (white) Lady Derby (rose pink) Yellow Hammer (creamy yellow) Buff Beauty (pale yellow striped with straw) Corregio (white) Count Andrassy (lavender blue) Enchantress (porcelain blue) General de Wet (soft light pink) Pink Perfection (mauve rose) La Grandesse (white) Oranjeboven (pale salmon-tinged rose) King of the Blues (dark blue) Etna (dark rose) Large trumpet Narcissi: Emperor Empress Golden Spur Horsfieldi Mme. de Graaff Olympia Silver Spur Victoria W. P. Milner William Goldring Medium trumpet narcissi: Sir Watkin Barri conspicuous Poeticus ornatus Sea Gull White Lady Double narcissi: Van Skn Orange Phoenix 274 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Paper White Narcissus (all varieties) Galanthus Miscellaneous Bulbs: Chionodoxa Gladiolus The Bride Glory-of-the-snow Sword Mower Convallaria majalis Hyacinth Dutch and Roman Lily-of-the-valley Early single varieties Freesia refracta alba Ixia Freesia African Corn Lily b. Forcing in water Crocus Narcissus horsfieldi Mammoth Yellow Crocus Trumpet Narcissus Hyacinth Roman Narcissus polyanthus totus albus (large bulbs) Paper White Narcissus Narcissus Golden Spur Narcissus polyanthus^ Soleil d'Or Trumpet Narcissus Yellow Paper White Narcissus Sprekelia formosissima Jacobaean Lily CHAPTER XXXVII FRAGRANT PLANTS THE group of trees, shrubs, and perennials whose flowers or leaves are fragrant is an important group in the development of an inter- esting variation in landscape plantings, especially on the larger places. There are certain varieties of shrubs, such as the common mock orange, the flowers of which are extremely fragrant, while the flowers of some of the other varieties have no odour whatever. This is a peculiar condition which has not been fully explained, but one which makes a marked difference in the effect of plantings from the standpoint of the fragrance of their flowers. A garden possesses greater charm if fra- grance is one of its attributes. In older times many plants were grown for their sweet odours, both of flowers and leaves. This feature has not been given its due importance in the landscape plant- ings of to-day, and a little study will convince one that a wealth of fragrance can be easily obtained in any planting of trees, shrubs, and perennials, by the proper selection of a few types of plants. The fragrant honeysuckle has a very attractive odour, while the tartarian honeysuckle has flowers with no fragrant odour whatever. The horse-chestnut has flowers with little or no odour, while the false acacia and the black locust fill the air with fragrance. Violets, trailing arbutus, and lilies-of-the-valley add a certain fragrance to the garden, which odour is entirely lacking in many other varieties of perennials. LIST OF FRAGRANT PLANTS A. FRAGRANT FLOWERS. The plants in this group are valuable because of the fragrance of their flowers. It is an interesting fact that many species of the same genus are not equally valuable because of the flower fragrance. This is true especially with the mock orange. a. Shrubs: Azalea arborescens Azalea canescens Smooth Azalea Fragrant Mountain Azalea 275 276 Azalea viscosa Swamp Azalea Buddleia veitchiana Summer Lilac Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Corylopsis spicata Flowering Hazel Daphne cneorum Garland Flower Itea virginica Virginian Willow Lonicera fragrantissima Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Lonicera spinosa alberti Large-fruited Honeysuckle Lonicera xylosteum Fly Bush Honeysuckle Magnolia conspicua Chinese White Magnolia Magnolia glauca Swamp Magnolia Osmanthus aquifolium Fragrant Olive Philadelphus coronarius Common Mock Orange Philadelphus zeyheri Hybrid Mock Orange THE COMPLETE GARDEN Pyrus angustifolia Narrow-leaved Crab Pyrus baccata Siberian Flowering Crab Pyrus coronaria Wild Crab Pyrus floribunda Flowering Crab Pyrus ioensis bechteli Bechtel's Crab Pyrus spectabilis riversi Rivers' Semi-double Chinese Flowering Crab Rhododendron azaleoides Hybrid Pinkster Flower Ribes aureum Flowering Currant Ribes gordonianum Flowering Currant Rosa (in variety) Rose Rubus deliciosus Rocky Mountain Flowering Raspberry Rubus odoratus Flowering Raspberry Syringa vulgaris Common Lilac Viburnum carlesi Korean viburnum b. Trees: Catalpa speciosa Western Catalpa Gleditsia triacanthos Honey Locust Paulownia tomentosa Empress Tree Robinia pseudacacia Black Locust Tilia (in variety) Linden c. Perennials: Arabis albida Rock Cress Artemisia lactiflora Southernwood Asterula odorata Sweet Woodruff Cheiranthus cheiri (tender) Wallflower Clematis davidiana^ David's Clematis Clematis recta Herbaceous Clematis Convallaria majalis Lily-of-the-valley Dianthus plumarius Scotch Pink FRAGRANT PLANTS 277 Dictamnus fraxinella Malva moschata Gas Plant Musk Mallow Epigaea re-pens Monarda (in variety) Trailing Arbutus Bergamot Funkia (in variety) Oenothera (in variety) Plantain Lily Evening Primrose Hemerocallis aurantiaca Paeonia albiflora sinensis Fragrant Orange Lily Chinese Peony Hemerocallis flava Phlox paniculata Lemon Lily Garden Phlox Hemerocallis thunbergi Trifolium re-pens Lemon Lily White Clover Hesperis matronalis Faleriana (in variety) Sweet Rocket Valerian Iris germanica Viola odorata semperflorens German Iris Violet jZavandula vera ' Yucca filamentosa Lavender Adam's Needle B. FRAGRANT LEAVES. This is a small but very interesting group of plants. Most produce an attractive odour from the leaves either growing on the plant, or dried and crushed. a. Trees and shrubs: Benzoin aestivale Rhus canadensis Spice Bush Fragrant Sumac Buxus Rosa rubiginosa Boxwood Sweet Brier Comptonia asplenifolia Rosa rubiginosa hybrida (t Sweet Fern Lord Penzance Hybrid Brier b. Perennials: Anthemis Lavandula vera Chamomile Lavender Artemisia abrotanum Monarda didyma I Southernwood Bergamot Artemisia dracunculus^ Rosmarinus officinalis Tarragon Rosemary Asperula odorata Salvia officinalis Sweet Woodruff Mammoth Sage Cedronella Sanguisorba minor Balm of Gilead Burnet Dictamnus fraxinella Santolina ckamatcyparissus Gas Plant Lavender Cotton Tanacetum Tansy CHAPTER XXXVIII POISONOUS PLANTS THE increase in the number of country homes that are being built on "new land" makes important an understanding of the common poisonous plants which are likely to occur and which should not be collected for use in planting, but should rather be removed if they are so situated as to prove dangerous to people, or where they may be browsed by animals. A few of these plants are sold by growers and if planted they should be located after some forethought. Of those in the first list there are several that are really desirable because of their flowers; but all in the second list can easily be dis- pensed with. Similar to the poison ivy or poison oak is the woodbine or Virginia creeper; but the latter has five leaflets on a stem while the objectionable vine has three. There are several desirable species of sumac in addition to the poisonous kind. The species to be avoided can be recognized by its growing in swamps, and it is rarely found in ground at all well drained. It and the poison ivy alike are distin- guished by their white fruits. The first plant in List B, however, primula obconica, the hairy primrose, popular as a house plant, need not be discarded if any person who is susceptible to contact poisons will rinse his hands in alcohol and then wash with soap and water after handling this plant. Where animals may browse, the planter should not place any form of the kalmia or laurel. This is the only desirable plant in List A of considerable range that grazing animals are apt to feed upon. In the west, particularly Wyoming, many sheep are killed by eating the woody aster or the death camas. The darnel poisons men, dogs, horses, and sheep, but does not harm cows, pigs, and ducks. Of those in the first group, the mushroom is the only one that is likely to be eaten by a human being. The more dangerous species of it is the amanita phalloides or "deadly amanita," for it is widely distributed in woods and meadows and for the phallin that it con- 278 POISONOUS PLANTS 279 tains no antidote is known. It is all the more to be guarded against in its pure white form, resembling the lepiotcz or edible mushrooms, but, as a rule, the upper surface of the cap is grayish, brownish or greenish. (The different edible mushrooms additional to the white variety as referred to above have caps that are slaty gray, reddish brown, or brownish yellow.) In general, it might be remarked that there is risk in taking into the system any part of a plant the properties of which are not known. The leaves of the wild black cherry, for example, are quite poisonous, especially when dried, and the seeds of the Jamestown weed are more deadly than the rest of the plant; but the physician may make proper use of belladonna, strychnine, and aconite. LIST OF POISONOUS PLANTS Poisonous plants may be divided into two groups : A. Plants which if taken internally either cause irritation or poison the blood. B. Skin irritants. The majority of the plants in the first group are more harmful to farm animals than to human beings. In the second group the reverse is true. A. INTERNALLY POISONOUS: Aconitum napellus Helleborus niger Monkshood Christmas Rose Amanita muscaria Kalmia angustifolia Mushroom Sheep Laurel Amanita phalloides Kalmia latifolia Mushroom Mountain Laurel Arisaema triphyllum Lolium temulentum Jack-in-the-pulpit Darnel Atropa belladonna Oxytropus lambertini Deadly Night-shade Slender Loco-weed Cicuta maculata Passiflora incarnata Cowbane Passion Flower Conium maculatum Prunus serotina (leaves) Poison Hemlock Wild Black Cherry Datura stramonium Vcratrum viride Jamestown Weed Green Hellebore Delphinium gtyi Xylorrhiza parryi Larkspur Woody Aster Zygadenus intermedius Death Camas 280 THE COMPLETE GARDEN B. SKIN IRRITANTS: ;V Primula obconica Rhus toxicodendron Hairy Primula Poison Oak Rhus radicans Rhus vernix Poison Ivy Poison Sumac Stipa spartea (skin irritant for animals only) Porcupine Grass C. CAUSING HAY FEVER. East of the looth meridian in the United States ninety per cent, of the cases of hay fever are caused by the common ragweed (Ambrosia elatior) while in the Rocky Mountain and Pacific states the sage brush (Artemisia) replaces the ragweed as the most common hay fever weed. The so-called "rose fever" from which many people suffer each year is not caused by roses at all but by pollen from several different grasses. There are a number of commonly planted ornamental plants which possess hay-fever produc- ing characteristics, as follows : 1. The flowers must be wind pollinated. 2. The flowers must be very numerous. 3. The flowers are generally unscented and not conspicuously coloured. Some plants, like the goldenrods (Solidagd), when used in large quantities in a room may prove irritant, but the pollen is not wind borne and thus it is not a true hay-fever plant. Dandelions have been known to cause irritation when children press the flowers too closely to their nostrils; but the dandelion is not a true hay-fever plant. The list of plants given below has been divided into two parts: (a) those plants which are active hay-fever producers, and (b) those which are mild. None of these plants should be used about hospitals, nor where hay-fever sufferers are likely to come in contact with them. a. Active: Artemisia frigida Wormwood Sage Aster ericoides White Heath Aster Aster novae-angliae Hardy Garden Aster Carya ovata Hickory Centaurea cyanus Old-fashioned Cornflower Chrysanthemum leucanthemum Ox-eye Daisy Dianthus chinensis Chinese Pink Miscanthus compactus Plume Grass Eupatorium sessifolium Upland Grass Helianthus angustifolius Hardy Sun-flower POISONOUS PLANTS 281 Ipomoea purpurea Common Morning Glory Iva ciliata Marsh Elder Juglans nigra Black Walnut Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Poa annua Annual Meadow Grass Populus deltoid.es Southern Cottonwood Quercus nigra Water Oak Solidago canadensis Goldenrod Spiraea vanhouttei Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath Fernonia noveboracencis Ironweed b. Mild: Acer rubrum Red Maple Acer rubrum drummondi Drummond's Maple Salix nigra Black Willow Lonicera flava Yellow Honeysuckle Rhus typhina Staghorn Sumac CHAPTER XXXIX ORNAMENTAL PLANTS SUBJECT TO DISEASE AND INSECT PESTS THE purpose of the list of plants given below is not to discourage any prospective planter, even though the list is a formidable one, nor to catalogue all the ornamental plants which may be affected by insects or disease. It should be remembered that ornamental plants, like animals, are much less subject to disease, and less likely to be harmed also when in good condition. Thus the average person who grows ornamental plants will, if he keeps them from being damaged by mechanical factors such as wounds, lack of food and water, poor soil aeration, and so on, not need to worry very much as to whether they will succumb easily to disease or insect attacks. The true diseases of plants are either physiological, such as tip burn, due to over-transpiration of water during a hot wind, or parasitic. The parasitic diseases either kill by the secretion of toxins and enzymes which destroy plant tissues, or these toxins and enzymes cause ex- cessive tissue growth or diversion of food substances of the plant to the use of the parasite. When the plant tissue is killed a rot, blight, or leaf spot appears and when the second effect takes place the result is a gall, leaf curl, rust, or smut. The first effect, which results in the immediate death of the plant tissue, is of course the most harmful. Anthracnose is a disease caused by one definite sort of fungus or parasite. While the diseases of plants are not something new, since the his- torical writings of the ancients mentioned rusts, cankers, and smuts, the study of how to combat them is not only a new but an everchanging subject. Accordingly, the reader is urged to consult the latest bul- letins of his State Experiment Station or of the U. S. Department of Agriculture before embarking very far upon a programme of spraying or of otherwise combating these diseases. Not all insects which live on or about plants are harmful. Thus the honey bees, the "lady-bugs," and many others are beneficial since they either pollenate the flowers or eat other harmful insects. The 282 ORNAMENTAL PLANTS 283 types of injurious insects are as follows : plant lice, scales, borers, fruit- eating insects, root-feeding insects, and leaf or bud-feeding insects. The leaf or bud-feeding insects are the most harmful to the appearance of ornamental plants, though borers and scales do a vast amount of damage. Plant lice also, during some seasons of the year, spoil the appearance of some ornamental plants as well as do damage. Much valuable study and thought have been given to the subject of eradication of insect pests and the information available on this subject is very complete. The spray calendars published by the State Experiment Stations should be consulted for details of how to keep ornamental plants clean and thrifty. LIST OF ORNAMENTAL PLANTS SUBJECT TO DISEASE AND INSECT PESTS Not all trees are equally seriously affected by insect pests and in the list below where a long list of insects and diseases are given after a plant name it does not signify that all those insects and diseases commonly occur, but merely that they are known to occur on one or more species of the genus. The list is given merely as a guide showing along what lines to look for further information, and it also indicates the sort of treatment required as outlined in the chapter on Maintenance, under the spraying discussion (See Page 75). Considerable study throughout New York and Ohio in regard to the immunity of trees from insect injury points to the following con- clusions: The arborvitae, tree of heaven, and the ginkgo are practi- cally immune from injurious insects. The American and Oriental planes, the red and scarlet oaks, and the tulip tree and junipers are occasionally attacked. The red, Norway, sugar, and sycamore maples, the white and bur oaks, the honey locust, catalpa, the birches, the spruces, and the white pine have each one serious insect pest. Among the trees very likely to be attacked by insects are the European and American lindens, the American and the water or red elms, the soft maple, the horse-chestnut and buckeyes, and the hackberry. The European and Scotch elms and the willows are very seriously injured by insects, while the yellow locusts and poplars and cottonwoods are so seriously injured as to make it doubtful whether they should ever be used in ornamental planting. In the following alphabetical list of plants all the defoliating larval forms of insects are classed as caterpillars for the sake of brevity, and 284 THE COMPLETE GARDEN because they are all treated in the same way when spraying is re- sorted to; namely, by a poison or a contact insecticide. Alder (powdery mildew, borers, leaf roller, caterpillars, maple scale). Apple (canker, aphids, caterpillars, scales, and bark louse). Arborvitae (bagworm). Ash (trunk rot, canker, leaf spot, borer, caterpillars, and scales). Aster (wilt and blister beetle). Azalea (leaf spot and caterpillar). Barberry (rust, plant louse, and caterpillar). Bay berry (caterpillar). Beech (leaf diseases, anthracnose, mildew on leaves, maple scale, and caterpillars). Birch (anthracnose, heart rot, canker, borer, and caterpillars). Bitter-sweet, (evonymus scale). Box Elder (canker, scales, and caterpillars). Boston Ivy (caterpillars). Buckeye (scales, bark louse, and caterpillars). Catalpa (leaf blight, powdery mildew, and caterpillars). Cherry (black knot, scales, aphis, leaf spot, mildew, and caterpillars). Chestnut (anthracnose, bark disease, weevil, and caterpillars). Chrysanthemum (leaf spot). Columbine (borers). Daphne (magnolia scale). Dogwood (San Jose scale, oyster shell scale, dogwood scale, and bark louse). Elm (leaf diseases, leaf beetle, canker, scale, leaf gall, and caterpillars). Englemann's spruce (red spider). English Ivy (leaf blight). Evonymus (evonymus scale, and cottony maple scale). Fir (saw fly, timber beetle, borer, and caterpillars). Hackberry (scale and caterpillars). Hazel (caterpillars). Hickory (leaf spot, borers, shuck worm, tussock moth caterpillar, bark beetle, and canker worm). Hollyhock (anthracnose and rust). Hornbeam (caterpillars). Horse-chestnut (leaf blight, rust, tussock moth, bag worm, scales, and bark lice). Hydrangea (leaf blight and rust). Iris (bulb spot, root rot, and leaf blight). Juniper (cedar rust, red spider, and caterpillars). Larch (canker, saw fly, and tussock moth). Lilac (powdery mildew, San Jose scale, bark lice, and caterpillars). Linden (borers, leaf beetle, caterpillars, scale, and red spider). Locust (heart rot, borers, leaf beetle, maple scale, and caterpillars). Magnolia (magnolia scale). Maple (anthracnose, tip burn, sun scald, borers, caterpillars, scale, and twig pruner). Mulberry (bacterial disease, cottony maple scale). ORNAMENTAL PLANTS 285 Narcissus (aphids and eel worms). Oak (anthracnose, caterpillars, powdery mildew, scale, leaf beetle, and twig primer). Osage Orange (scale, bark louse, and caterpillar). Peach (scales, caterpillars, and borers). Peony (stem rot and leaf spot). Phlox (leaf spot fungus and powdery mildew). Pine (rust, leaf spot, leaf scale, bark louse, saw fly, and weevil). Poplar (anthracnose, rust, leaf beetle, scales, bark louse, borers, and caterpillars.) Privet (anthracnose, twig blight, and webworm). Quince (anthracnose, black rot, and San Jose scale). Red-bud (caterpillars). Rhododendron (lace-wing fly and borers). Rose (anthracnose, mildew, crown gall, nematodes, slugs, scales, and thrips). Shad-bush (red spider). Snapdragon (anthracnose, stem rot, and wilt). Snowball Bush viburnum (aphids). Solomon's Seal (leaf fungus). Sour Gum (caterpillars). Spice Bush (scale and caterpillars). Spruce (leaf spot, red spider, bug worm, caterpillars, and weevil). Sumac (canker, scale, and caterpillars). Sweet Gum (bagworm and other caterpillars). Sycamore (anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf folders, caterpillars, and scales). Thorn (caterpillars, scales, plant lice, aphids, and leaf beetle). Tree of Heaven (rose scale). Tulip Tree (scale and caterpillars). Verbena (mildew). Veronica (leaf diseases). Viburnum (see Snowball Bush). Violet (nematodes and leaf spot). Virginia Creeper (leaf spot, caterpillars, and scales). Walnut (anthracnose, mildew, canker worms, caterpillars, and scales). Willow (caterpillars, leaf beetles, borers, and bark louse). Wisteria (leaf beetle). Witch Hazel (caterpillars). Yucca (caterpillars and grubs.) CHAPTER XL PLANTS DIFFICULT TO TRANSPLANT AND THOSE ADAPTED FOR TRANSPLANTING AT SPECIFIC SEASONS OF THE YEAR THE fact is well appreciated that of all our great range of material used in landscape plantings there are a certain number of these species and varieties which are better adapted to being transplanted at some specific season, either during the spring or during the fall. It is gener- ally safe to assume that plants such as the poplars, willows, and the rose of Sharon, the wood of which is late in ripening, should preferably be transplanted in the spring. If these types are transplanted in the fall, they are, during a normal severe winter, subjected to a considerable winter-killing, and must be severely cut back in the early spring; whereas, if planted in the spring they almost invariably continue co grow and require little or no cutting back. The group of perennials which should not be transplanted in the spring consists mostly of those plants which begin their growth at the first sign of spring, and before the ground is really in fit condi- tion to "work." These plants, by the time the ground is warm and dry enough to permit transplanting in friable soil, have developed so much growth of roots or of both roots and top, that unless they can be immediately moved without any period of delay from their existing location to a new location they should by all means be transplanted during the fall. If such plants are transplanted in the spring the usual result is a check to growth and exceptionally weak development of flowers and of foliage during that season. The fall transplanting of perennials ought to be done, especially with these early spring-flowering types, during September rather than during the latter part of October and November, when the ground is cold and growth is completely stopped. Transplanting earlier in the fall enables the plants to start some root growth and thus to establish themselves to better withstand the winter conditions, especially in the soils containing more or less clay. Especially should the peony, for any degree of success, be trans- 286 TRANSPLANTING 287 planted in the fall. The iris is peculiar and can be successfully trans- planted at any time when the ground is not frozen. The best time is believed to be immediately after flowering. Plants which are not vigorous in their habit of root growth and which are very susceptible to abnormal conditions of freezing and thawing, or to excessive moisture in the soil during the winter months, should not be transplanted in the autumn. The most important illustra- tions of this type of plants are the beech, the flowering dogwood, and some of the less hardy types of evergreens, such as the arborvitae and the pea-fruited cypress. Many good plantsmen are of the opinion that rhododendrons and azaleas should be planted during the spring months. As is the case with the refined types of evergreens, there is usually less loss from spring planting of this material than from fall planting. The question of period of transplanting in connection with rhododen- drons and with evergreens has been discussed under the chapter on Planting and Transplanting (Page 49). While it is desirable in the transplanting of evergreens and of rhododendrons in particular to move them at a time when they are just ready to begin growth, in order to prevent them from standing in a "cold soil," it is, on the other hand, necessary to transplant such trees as the beech and the birch when they are absolutely dormant. If they have shown the least signs of growth through the swelling of the buds, the operation of transplanting becomes more difficult, and yet to transplant such material in the fall and to permit it to stand through the winter, especially in a heavy soil, subjects it to the possibility of considerable loss. There is a well-defined group of perennials, typical of which are the chrysanthemum and the Japanese anemone, which can seldom be transplanted with any success during the fall season. The reason for this is that the plant produces flowers at such a late period in the growing season that further root action necessary to establish the plant in a new location and successfully carry it through the winter is not encouraged. Group C includes plants divided into two sub-groups, a those which transplant with difficulty and should rarely if ever be trans- planted, but grown in their permanent location from seed, cuttings, or very small seedlings, and b those which after being transplanted recover very slowly. All of the plants in the first group are the ex- tremely slow-growing types, such as the walnut, the butternut, the ironwood, and the sweet fern. Those typical of the second groups are 288 THE COMPLETE GARDEN the Japanese snowball, the rose of Sharon, boxwood, nursery-grown beech trees, and sweet gum. The author does not intend to convey the impression that any of the plants in either of these groups, especially the first group, cannot be transplanted with success by those who are in a position to know the plants intimately, and to take thorough pre- cautions against any possible injury through transplanting. For the person who is not an expert plantsman and who does not thoroughly understand all of the conditions necessary for the successful trans- planting of the extremely slow-growing types of trees and shrubs the plants in the first group should be avoided, and extreme care should be given to the work of transplanting any of the trees or shrubs included in the second group. Most of the plants included in the second group should be trans- planted for best success during the spring months. Their habit of slow growth and inability to adapt themselves readily to new con- ditions of soil make them very liable to injury on account of drowning- out because of excessive depth of planting, or injury from winter conditions. All of these types are apt to be extremely unsatisfactory during the first two years after transplanting, but when once they have recovered from the shock of transplanting they will grow wonderfully well. LIST OF PLANTS ADAPTED FOR TRANSPLANTING AT SPECIFIC SEASONS OF THE YEAR Under excellent care, good results may be attained by transplanting all plants during the fall planting season, or during the spring planting season. For the best results, however, it is advisable to plant some types during the fall planting season and other types during the spring planting season. The two groups A and B contain plants specifi- cally adapted for planting; some in the fall and some in the spring. Group C contains a list of plants which transplant with extreme difficulty, and can be transplanted with better success during the spring months with the exception of the trailing arbutus listed in Group C-a. This plant is extremely difficult to transplant with any success at any season. Those who have had considerable experience with the trailing arbutus are of the general opinion that if it is taken up during the month of July and moved with a goodly amount of soil about its roots together with some additional soil in which to plant it in the new loca- tion, some success may be assured. Special care should be taken TRANSPLANTING 289 immediately after this plant is transplanted to give it a mulch of some light texture such as partially decayed oak leaves in order to provide a satisfactory fertilizer and to prevent excessive evaporation from the soil which surrounds the roots. A. PLANTS WHICH SHOULD BE TRANSPLANTED IN AUTUMN: Anemone pennsylvanica Lilium (not stem-rooting) Canadian Windflower Lily Aquilegia (in variety) Paeonia Columbine Peony Dicentra spectabilis Phlox divaricata Bleeding-heart Wild Sweet William Doronicum plantagineum excelsum Primula (in variety) Leopard's Bane Primrose Hepatica triloba Sanguinaria canadensis Hepatica Bloodroot Iris (in variety) Trillium (in variety) Iris (See Page 90) Wake Robin Trollius europaeus Globe-flower B. PLANTS WHICH SHOULD BE TRANSPLANTED IN SPRING: Acer rubrum Ericaceous plants of Red Maple all sorts Acer saccharinum Fagus sylvatica Silver Maple European Beech Anemone japonica Hedera helix Japanese Windflower English Ivy Azalea (in variety) Hibiscus syriacus Azalea Rose of Sharon Benzoin aestivale Kalmia (in variety* Spice Bush Laurel Betula (in variety) Kerria japonica Birch Globe-flower Buddleia veitchiana Liquidambar styraciflua Summer Lilac Sweet Gum Calycanthus floridus Liriodendron tulipifera Strawberry Shrub Tulip Tree Chrysanthemum (in variety) Magnolia (in variety) Chrysanthemum Magnolia Colutea arborescens Morus rubra Bladder Senna Red Mulberry Cornus fiorida Pieris (in variety) Flowering Dogwood Fetterbush Cotoneaster horizontalis Populus (in variety) Prostrate Cotoneaster Poplar Crataegus (in variety) Rhododendron (in variety) Thorn Rhododendron 290 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Rhus canadensis Taxus (in variety) Fragrant Sumac Yew Rosa rugosa Ulmus americana Japanese Rose American Elm Stephanandra flexuosa Viburnum plicatum Stephanandra Japanese Snowball Tamarix gallica Vitex agnus-castus French Tamarisk Chaste Tree C. PLANTS WHICH ARE TRANSPLANTED WITH LITTLE SUCCESS : a. Plants to be rarely if ever transplanted. Some plants, especially if collected from the wild, seldom survive the shock of transplanting. Some plants, like the beeches, must be entirely dormant if they are to be moved successfully. The letter (c) after a name indicates that collected plants move with little or no success; but nursery-grown plants move with fair success. Anemone nemorosa Juglans nigra White Wood Anemone Black Walnut Betula (in variety) (c) Juniperus sabina (c) Birch Savin Jumper Carpinus caroliniana Larix laricina American Hornbeam Tamarack Comptonia asplenifolia (c) Myrica carolinensis (c) Sweet Fern Bayberry Epigaea repens Nyssa sylvatica Trailing Arbutus Tupelo Fagus americana (c) Ostrya virginiana American Beech Hop Hornbeam Carya (in variety) Taxus canadensis (c) Hickory Ground Yew Juglans cinerea Tsuga canadensis (c) Butternut Canadian Hemlock Faccinium vaeillans (c) Low Blueberry b. Plants which recover slowly from the operation of transplanting. Some fine species of ornamental plants never recover quickly from the effects of being transplanted. No matter how carefully this work may be carried out there is sure to be a considerable period following when the plant is disappointing in appearance and when it requires careful maintenance if future growth is to fulfill the expec- tation of the planter. Abelia grandiflora Betula (in variety) Hybrid Abelia Birch Acer palmatum Buxus sempervirens Japanese Maple Tree TRANSPLANTING 291 Calluna vulgaris Kalmia latifolia Scotch Heather Mountain Laurel Carpinus betulus Liquidambar styraciflua European Hornbeam Sweet Gum Cercis canadensis Liriodendron tulipifera Red-bud Tulip Tree Cornus florida Mahonia aauifolium Flowering Dogwood Oregon Grape Crataegus (in variety) Pyrus (in variety) ' Thorn Crab Fagus sylvatica Quercus rubra European Beech Red Oak Hibiscus syriacus Rhamnus cathartica Rose of Sharon Common Buckthorn Ilex glabra Syringa vulgaris (in variety) Inkberry Common Lilac Hex opaca Viburnum tomentosum plicatum American Holly Japanese Snowball CHAPTER XLI SHRUBS FOR FORCING IN WATER IN EARLY SPRING BEFORE winter has gone and the warm days of early spring cause our early-flowering shrubs to mature some very interesting flowers may be developed indoors on twigs of such plants. These flowers, the harbingers of spring, may be developed almost as well indoors as out of doors at a later date on the plants. The reason for such normal development under abnormal conditions is that the flowers, complete in miniature form, lie within the existing flower buds ready to burst forth when given sufficient heat and moisture. When forcing cut stems of hard wooded ornamental plants in water in winter or early spring, the best results are secured by following a few simple rules. When flowers are desired, select branches of plants which produce flowers from buds formed the previous year. Other- wise, only leaves will result, which of course are sometimes desirable as an addition to the flowers of other sorts. Since all the flowers and leaves which will appear must come from buds already upon the twigs and branches be careful to cut only branches containing plump, full buds, especially when flowers are desired. It is possible to cut these branches at any time from February to April. After cutting the branches care must be taken to keep them from drying out and it is often well worth while to soak the whole twigs for a few hours in warm water, both before starting to force them and occasionally afterward at intervals of a week. This will loosen the bud scales, soften the whole fibre of the twig, and remove dust, thus taking the place of spring showers. The twigs should be from twelve to thirty inches long and placed- in fairly large receptacles with plenty of water. The water should be changed every second or third day and should have small pieces of charcoal added in order to help keep it sweet. Each two or three days it is advisable to make fresh cuts at the bottom ends of the twigs and it is often worth while to wash the cut ends in mild soap and water to prevent sliminess. The forsythias or golden bells are the easiest and most successful 292 SHRUBS FOR FORCING IN WATER 293 plants for forcing in water. All sorts of currants are likely to be successful, even including the common black currant of our gardens. The dogwoods, especially the cornelian cherry, should not be over- looked. The fruit trees, such as apples, plums, cherries, and pears, may all be forced though they respond slowly and require several weeks' time and much patience. The lilacs do not seem to respond easily to forcing in water, nor do the magnolias. There are many common sorts of shrubs, some of which are listed below, which will provide flowers or catkins. In general, those woody plants which flower first in the spring are the ones easiest to force in water. Those which require a longer period to develop flowers from the buds are not forced successfully. LIST OF SHRUBS FOR FORCING IN WATER IN EARLY SPRING Generally speaking, flowers of all early-blooming shrubs, flowering upon wood of previous season, can be forced. The branches may be cut any time after January; but the best results are obtained when the branches are cut after the sap begins to run. Place the branches in water and spray tops several times daily to force bloom. Amelanchier (white and pink) Shad-bush Caragana frutescens (yellow) Siberian Pea Shrub Cercis canadensis (pink) Red-bud Chaenomeles japonic a (pink and red) Japanese Quince Colutea arborescens (light yellow) Bladder Senna Cornus mas (light yellow) Cornelian Cherry Corylus amtricana (brown) Hazelnut Deutzia gracilis (white) Slender Deutzia Forsythia (all sorts) (yellow) Golden Bell Kerria japonica (yellow) Globe-flower Lonicera fragrantissima (pink and white) Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Philadelphus (all sorts) (white) Mock Orange Prunus cerasus (pink) Flowering Cherry Prunus triloba (pink) Flowering Plum Pyrus halliana parkmani Parkman's Crab Ribes aureum (yellow) Flowering Currant Salix caprea (grey) Goat Willow Spiraea arguta (very fine) (white) Hybrid Snow Garland CHAPTER XLII PRUNING REQUIREMENTS THE question of the necessary pruning required by various trees and shrubs is a natural one. Many persons are under the impression that every tree and shrub requires a certain amount of pruning each year. Many are under the further impression that all of this pruning should be done in the winter and spring, while others are under the impres- sion that it should be done during the summer or fall. The most important fact to be known in connection with the opera- tion of pruning is that one should be thoroughly familiar with the flowering characteristics of the plants to be pruned. Our lawn shrubs especially, which are often subject to the most indiscriminate kinds of pruning, comprise a group of plants with which this chapter is con- cerned. Pruning is done for various purposes, as outlined and dis- cussed in the chapter on Pruning. The question under discussion in this chapter is whether or not all shrubs shall be pruned at a definite season of the year, and if not, what are the special reasons why this standard method of procedure should not be adopted. As referred to in the foregoing paragraph, before any pruning of shrubs is attempted it is essential to recognize their flowering habits. The operation of pruning necessarily involves the removal not only of dead wood but of much wood which is alive and growing; wood which produces flowers and, subsequently, fruit. The spring and early summer-blooming trees and shrubs produce flowers from buds which are formed upon the wood during the previous growing season. These embryo flowers contained within the buds have existed in the bud form since the wood of the previous season had begun to ripen, and they are protected by the scales or outer covering of the bud until such time as the temperature has been sufficient to encourage their growth. It is therefore clear that any pruning which is done upon such plants during the late winter or early spring months, prior to the time when these plants have produced their flowers, is an operation whereby a greater or less quantity of flowers is deliberately removed from the plant. 294 PLATE XLVI. Many of our common garden perennials possess the possibil- ities to produce very interesting colour effects through the colour combination of the flowers. (A) Italian alkanet; (B) hardy marguerite. (See page 231) 295 An ornamental plant is rarely over-supplied with flowers. It therefore behooves us to preserve, so far as possible, all of the buds which pro- duce flowers. Practically all of the growth of new wood on these plants, which adds to the increasing size of the plant, develops after the plant has completed its flowering period. Buds containing the flowers for the succeeding year are often developed on wood which is formed after the plant has matured its flowers. Therefore, pruning on plants of this kind, such as the mock orange, high-bush cranberry, snowball, and Van Houtte's spirea, should be done immediately after the flowers have matured, to stimulate a correct kind of new growth on which may be developed flower buds for the next season. One of the most common faults in connection with the pruning of trees and shrubs is that of applying the same principles of pruning to all kinds of shrubs regardless of whether they are early spring-flowering or late summer- flowering, and in so doing to deprive the plant of much of its beauty and attractiveness exhibited through its mass of flowers. In such shrubs, of the spring and early summer-flowering types, which produce flowers from buds on the growth of the previous year, pruning, to produce the maximum of new growth for increasing the quantity of flowers during the succeeding year, should never be delayed more than two weeks beyond the time when the plant has matured its flowers. On the other hand, there is a group of shrubs of which the best examples are the rose of Sharon, butterfly bush, hydrangea, and snow- berry, which are of the late summer and fall-blooming types, and on which the flower-producing buds are formed on the same season's growth. To produce the maximum of flowers on such shrubs it is necessary that they should be pruned during the late winter and early spring months before growth for that season has commenced. In this way much of the old wood is removed, and a greater quantity of new wood, with its accompanying flower buds, is encouraged. If a general rule is to be applied to all trees and shrubs it would be much prefer- able to give them a so-called summer pruning, which means that the operation of pruning should be delayed until shortly after the shrubs have completed their flowering. In connection with this discussion it should be borne in mind that there are also some trees and shrubs such as the flowering dogwood, Judas tree, and lilac, which are not so much benefited by annual pruning, and which should be pruned only by the most capable of experts. 296 THE COMPLETE GARDEN There is a group of plants which practically require only the removal of dead wood and superfluous growth. These trees and shrubs are apt to be more or less injured by the operation of pruning. They normally are comparatively slow growing. They have a tendency to grow in- formally and to maintain the normal shape of the plant as they con- tinue to increase in size. The operation of pruning does not encourage a sufficient new growth and oftentimes so changes the physiological con- dition of the plant that the flowering ability is impaired to a marked degree during the succeeding one or two years. From the foregoing discussions it is evident that the operation of pruning, as applied to the questions of just what shrubs to prune in spring and what shrubs to prune in summer, and what shrubs should never or rarely be pruned, is an important one. It is not an operation the decision for doing which should be placed in the hands of any but those who are skilled in the art and those who are thoroughly familiar with the reasons pro and con. PRUNING LISTS A. SHRUBS NEEDING COMPLETE PRUNING: a. Spring and early summer-flowering: Benzoin aestivale Forsythia (in variety) Spice Bush Golden Bell Berberis thunbergi Hamamelis virginiana Thunberg's Japanese Barberry Witch Hazel Cephalanthus occidental** Hippophae rhamnoides Button Bush Sea Buckthorn Cercis canadensis Hydrangea arborescens Red-bud Wild Hydrangea Chionanthus virginica Kerria japonica White Fringe Globe-flower Cornus (in variety) Ligustrum (in variety) Dogwood Privet Cotoneaster (in variety) Lonicera (in variety) Cotoneaster Honeysuckle Dfutzia (in variety) Philadelphus (in variety) Deutzia Mock Orange Diervilla hybrida Physocarpus opulifolius Hybrid Weigela Ninebark Dirca palustris Rhamnus cathartica Leather- wood Common Buckthorn Elaeagnus angustifolia Rhodotypos kerrioides Russian Olive White Kerria Evonymus (in variety) Robinia hispida Burning Bush Rose Acacia PRUNING REQUIREMENTS 297 Sambucus canadensis Spiraea tomentosa American Elder Hardhack Spiraea arguta Spiraea vanhouttei Hybrid Snow Garland Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath Spiraea billardi Stephanandra flexuosa Billard's Spirea Stephanandra Spiraea prunifolia Syringa (in variety) Bridal Wreath Lilac Viburnum (in variety) Viburnum b. Late summer and fall-flowering: Amorpha fruticosa Hydrangea (in variety) False Indigo Hydrangea Buddleia davidi (Cut back in spring to Sorbaria arborea prevent danger of rotting) Chinese Mountain Ash Spirea Sweet-scented Buddleia Spiraea douglasi Ceanothus americanus Douglas' Spirea New Jersey Tea Symphoricarpos racemosus Clethra alnifolia Snowberry Sweet Pepper Bush Vitex incisa Hibiscus syriacus . Cut-leaved Hemp-tree Rose of Sharon B. SHRUBS NEEDING REMOVAL OF OLD WOOD ONLY: a. Summer pruning: Caragana Magnolia Pea Shrub Magnolia Daphne Mahonia Deciduous Daphne Oregon Grape Halesia Prunus cerasus Silver Bell Flowering Cherry Koelreuteria Pyracantha Varnish Tree Evergreen Thorn Laburnum vulgare Rhododendron Golden Chain Rhododendron Lonicera tatarica Staphylea Tartarian Honeysuckle Bladder-nut Xanthoceras Chinese Flowering Chestnut b. Winter pruning: Aralia Pavia Angelica Tree Dwarf Horse-chestnut Artemisia Robinia Pseudacacia Wormwood Black Locust Cladrastis Yucca Yellow- wood Adam's Needle 298 THE COMPLETE GARDEN C. TREES WHICH REQUIRE LITTLE OR No PRUNING: Aesculus Paulownia Horse-chestnut Empress Tree Catalpa Robinia Indian Bean Locust Liriodendron Sophora Tulip Tree Pagoda Tree Sorbus Mountain Ash D. EVERGREENS THAT SHOULD BE PRUNED IN MAY OR JUNE Abies Picea Fir Spruce . Pinus Pine E. EVERGREENS THAT MAY BE PRUNED AT ANY TIME: Chamaecyparis Taxus Cypress Yew Juniperus Thuja Juniper Arborvitae CHAPTER XLIII PLANTS FOR FLORIDA THE following compilation covers information concerning plants used for different landscape purposes in the Florida zones. Some of these plants are followed by the letter (T) which indicates that such material is tropical and is not adapted to the middle-south and northern por- tion of this state. This list is subject to considerable modification as further study of these plants brings more complete information concerning their adapta- tions and uses. The subject of Florida horticulture, especially from the landscape viewpoint, concerning the use and adaptations of plant materials, is yet in its infancy. Very few men have given any serious thought to this subject; at least very little information is now in printed form and available to those interested in this work. Florida is fast developing into one of the great winter playgrounds and home sections for many northern people who wish to escape the undesirable winter conditions. These people enter the state with the intention of developing homes and with every desire to beautify them, as is customary in connection with northern homes. A great dis- appointment is encountered as soon as they endeavour to consult in- formation which will tend to assist them in the landscape development of their property. This list will be of some value to those persons and to many others who are interested in the use of landscape ma- terials throughout this section of the south. In selecting material for various types of Florida plantings two things must be taken definitely into consideration: Material should be selected which is of real value during the summer months in Florida, and also material must often be selected which is of distinct value during the winter months. The plants included in this list have been selected for their general value throughout the year and more particularly during the winter months. In view of this it is es- sential that this material should be interesting because of its 300 THE COMPLETE GARDEN foliage or its flowers during the months from November to the first of April. There are many northern types of material which can easily be used in Florida plantations for its value during the winter months. There are many other types of northern material with which experiments should be conducted concerning their value for plantations in this climate. Many of the plants so familiar to northern plantings can be equally well used in plantings of the far south. Privet, golden bell, magnolia, and spirea are among this group which have value during the winter months. Most of the more hardy-flowering shrubs can be used in plantings, but because their period of flowering and of fruiting does not come during these winter months (December to April) they have been little used. The northern tourist is seeking colour of flowers while occupying his winter home in Florida. He also seeks air and sunshine. The heavy shade provided by the silk oak and the water oak so much desired by Floridians he wishes replaced by warmth of winter sunshine and tropical growth of palms which cast but little shade. The familiar growth of shrubs carrying the atmosphere of the north must be re- placed by shrubs and vines with brilliantly coloured flowers and foliage like the croton, oleander, trumpet-vine, Chinese hibiscus, and chenille plant. The great tendency in Florida plantings has been to develop a "spotty" effect at the expense of sacrificing interesting landscape com- positions. The "mass" planting of the north is seldom seen. Most types of southern plants are perhaps better adapted to specimen plant- ing than to mass effects. For effective mass planting around buildings, the croton, Chinese hibiscus, and chenille plant are among the best. LIST OF PLANTS FOR FLORIDA A. WINDBREAKS. It is often necessary in many locations, espe- cially along the water fronts, to plant windbreaks that will preserve the more tender types of plants and which will preserve the lighter soils against heavy windstorms coming from the direction of the prevailing winds. Windbreaks in this section of the country are not used for the same purpose that windbreaks are generally used in the northern climates where winter protection is the main use. Wind- breaks throughout the Florida section are of greatest value against erosion of the lighter soils because of prevailing winds and injuries to the more tender plants. PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 301 Bambusa argentea Cinnamomum camphora Silver Bamboo Camphor Tree Bambusa striata Grevillea robusta (T) Striped Bamboo Silk Oak Callitris verrucosa Pithecolobium dulce Cypress Pine Manila Tamarind Casuarina equisetifolia Quercus nigra Australian Pine Water Oak B. TREES FOR STREET AND SPECIMEN PLANTING: a. Northern list: This group of trees covers material which can be used throughout northern Florida, southern Georgia, Alabama, and over the area which is known as the Coastal Plain. In general, this list does not extend into Florida farther than one hundred miles south of Jacksonville. Trees in this group which are marked thus (+) are also adapted for street tree and specimen planting in the southern por- tion of Florida as shown on the accompanying list: Acer rubrum Gordonia lasianthus Red Maple Loblolly Bay Albizzia julibrissin Ilex opaca Mimosa American Holly Broussonetia papyrifera Liquidambar styracifl.ua Paper Mulberry Sweet Gum Cedrus deodar a -{-Magnolia grandiflora Deodar Magnolia Cedrus libani Melia azedarach umbraculiformis Cedar of Lebanon Umbrella Tree Celtis occidentalis -{-Quercus laurifolia Nettle Tree Laurel Oak -\-Cercis canadensis Quercus nigra Red-bud Water Oak -\-Cornusflorida Quercus phellos Flowering Dogwood Willow Oak Cunninghamia sinensis Quercus virginiana Chinese Pine Live Oak Ulmus americana American Elm b. Southern list: This group of trees, together with those which are marked thus (+) in the previous list, are adapted especially for street planting throughout the southern and middle section of Florida. Those marked (*) are the more commonly used and perhaps the better types for street tree planting. Adenanthera pavonina Aleurites triloba Circassian Bean Candle-nut Albizzia lebbek (T) Araucaria excelsa (T) Woman's Tongue Tree Norfolk Island Pine 302 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Bauhinia (in variety) (T) Cryptomeria japonica Mountain Ebony Japanese Cedar Bombax ctiba Delonix regia (T) Silk Cotton Tree Royal Poinciana Callitris robusta Ficus nitida Cypress Pine Indian Laurel Calophyllum calaba Ficus species (T) Calaba Tree Rubber and Fig Trees Canangium odoratum Gordonia lasianthus Ylang-Ylang Loblolly Bay Cassia fistula ^ *Grevillea robusta (T) Yellow Cassia Silk Oak *Casuarina equisetifolia Ilex specimens, especially Ilex opaca Australian Pine American Holly Cedrela odorata Libocedrus decurrens West Indian Cedar Incense Cedar Cinnamomum camphora Mangifera indica Camphor Tree Mango *Cocos plumosa Sabal palmetto Cocoanut Palm Cabbage Palmetto *Washingtonia robusta California Fan Palm C. VINES. The first part of this group consists of those vines which are commonly known as scrambling vines and which must be provided with a definite support on which they can twine or to which tendrils can attach themselves in order to maintain their upright habit of growth. Most of the vines which are interesting in the north are of great value in Florida planting. There is also an extensive list of vines which will not grow in the northern climates, but which are valuable in Florida. Those which are marked thus (+) are very in- teresting for Florida planting on account of their habit of producing flowers during the winter months. The second part of this group is composed of vines which can be used for covering bare wall surfaces and which will naturally attach themselves to walls of brick, stone, or concrete. These vines are of the evergreen type of foliage and are of value only for their foliage effect. / a. Lattices and wire fences: Abrus precatorius Antigonon leptopus Crab's Eye Vine Mountain Rose -\-Allamanda hendersoni (T) Ampelopsis quinquefolia Henderson's Allamanda t Virginia Creeper -\-Allamanda williamsi (T) Aristolochia elegans Williams' Allamanda Dwarf Dutchman's Pipe PLATE XLVII. During the early spring no woodland wild garden is com- plete without its quota of trilliums, grape hyacinth, and hepatica which grow luxuriantly if happily surrounded by correct conditions of soil and shade. (See page 227, group XXXI-C) PLATE XLVIII. Among those plants which become easily established in the wild garden, there is none the flower effect ot" which excels the Japanese windflower during the late summer. (See page 227, group XXXI-C) PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 303 Beaumontia grandifiora White-flowered Beaumontia Bignonia chinensis Chinese Trumpet Creeper -\-Bougainvillea braziliensis Paper Flower -f- Bougainville a glabra sanderiana Paper Flower Cereus triangularis Cereus Vine Clematis paniculata Japanese Clematis -\-Clerodendron thompsonae Scarlet Clerodendron Cobaea scandens (T) Cup and Saucer Vine -\-Gelsemium sempervirens Carolina Jasmine Jasminum grandiflorum Catalonian Jasmine Lonicera japonica halliana (north) Japanese Honeysuckle Lonicera sempervirens Coral Honeysuckle Passiflora incarnata Purple Passion Flower Vitis capensis Evergreen Grape Petraea volubilis Queen's Wreath Pithecoctenium cynanchoides Argentine Monkey's Comb Parana paniculata Snow Creeper Pyrostegia venusta Flame Flower Rosa laevigata Cherokee Rose Rosa setigera (north only) Prairie Rose Rosa (climbing hybrids) Rose Smilax Greenbrier Solandra guttata Chalice Vine Solanum seaforthianum (T) Tomatillo Solanum wendlandi Tomatillo Thunbergia (in variety) (T) Thunbergia Trachelospermum jasminoides Confederate Jasmine b. Masonry walls: Bignonia capreolata Cross Flower Bignonia radicans Trumpet Vine Bignonia speciosa South American Cross Vine Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Ficus repens Creeping Fig Ficus villosa Large-leaved Creeping Fig Hedera helix (north only) English Ivy Pyrostegia venusta Flame Flower D. SHRUBS WITH ATTRACTIVE FRUIT. The following is a group of shrubs which are of value in Florida plantations because of their fruiting characteristics, especially during the winter months. Quite different from similar shrubs in northern climates, these shrubs fruit much more abundantly and retain their fruit a greater length of time in this mild climate than would be the case farther north. 3 o 4 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Ardisia revoluta Eleagnus pungens Turkey Fruit Silver Thorn Baccharis halimifolia Eriobotrya japonica Groundsel Bush Medlar Bixa orellana Eugenia jambos Arnalto Rose Apple Carissa acuminata (T) Eugenia uniflora Natal Plum Surinam Cherry Chalcas paniculata Hamelia erecta Orange Jasmine Scarlet Bush Citrus deliciosa Ilex cassine Kid Glove Orange Dahoon Holly Citrus grandis Ilex opaca Grape-fruit American Holly Citrus japonica Laurocerasus caroliniana Kumquat Wild Orange Citrus sinensis Malpighia coccigera Orange Dwarf Barbadoes Cherry Clerodendron siphonanthus Mangifera indica Turk's Turban Mango Cotoneaster acuminata Musa Rose Box Banana Cotoneaster frigida Punica granatum Rose Box Pomegranate Cotoneaster pannosa Rhodomyrtus tomentosus Silver-leaved Rose Box Downy Myrtle Duranta repens Tamarindus indica Golden Dewdrop Tamarind Triphasia trifoliata Bergamot Berry E. HEDGES. For hedge planting there is in Florida a wider range of material adapted to such use than is ordinarily found in northern types of material. The first group given includes those shrubs which make low, compact hedges together with those which develop into a larger and looser type of hedge. Those shrubs which are marked (+) are valuable for hedge planting because of their flowering and fruiting characteristics. The remainder are valuable mostly on account of the foliage effect. The second list of material, which is for northern Florida, could be greatly enlarged provided it should seem advisable to use material which is often used in hedges planted farther north and which shed their leaves during the winter months. The group includes plants which are practically evergreen or which have some value for their fruit or flowers. Practically all of these can be used with equal success in middle and southern Florida. PLANTS FOR FLORIDA a. Middle and southern Florida: 305 -\-Acalypha hispida (T) Chenille Plant Bambusa disticha Bamboo -{-Carissa bispinosa (T) Natal Plum Cinnamomum camphora Camphor Tree -^Eugenia uniflora Surinam Cherry -\-Gardenia florida Cape Jasmine Gordonia lasianthus Loblolly Bay + Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Chinese Hibiscus Juniperus lucayana Southern Red Cedar Nerium oleander Oleander b. Northern Florida: Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Berberis thunbergi Thunberg's Japanese Barberry Buxus sempervirens Tree Box Citrus trifoliata Hardy Orange Evonymus japonicus Evergreen Evonymus Phyllanthus nivosus Snow Bush Pittosporum tobira Tobira Shrub Pittosporum undulatum Victorian Box Prunus caroliniana Carolina Laurel Cherry Psidium cattleianum Cattley Guava Raphiolepis indica Indian Hawthorn Severinia buxifolia Severino's Citrus Tabernaemontana coronariaflore plena Rose Bay Triphasia trifoliata Bergamot Berry Viburnum tinus Laurestinus Ligustrum amurense Amoor River Privet Ligustrum nepalense variegata Variegated Nepaul Privet Nerium oleander Oleander Punica granatum Pomegranate Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Thea sinensis Tea Plant F. FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR MIDDLE AND SOUTHERN FLORIDA. The following is a group of shrubs of more refined habit of growth which are adapted to middle and southern Florida. Those shrubs which are marked (+) are in flower during the winter months and are especially valuable for the northern tourists who visit Florida then. a. White flowers: Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Aralia spinosa Hercules Club -\-Assonia natalensis White Assonia \-Ar.alea indica Indian Azalea 306 THE COMPLETE GARDEN -\-Bauhinia acuminata (T) Lawsonia inermis (T) White Mountain Ebony Henna Chalcas paniculata (T) Ligustrum nepalense Orange Jasmine Nepaul Privet -\-Chionanthus virginica +Nerium oleander (single white) White Fringe White Oleander Cotone aster frigida Osmanthus americanus Rose Box Florida Olive Cotoneaster pannosa Osmanthus fragrans Silver-leaved Rose Box Sweet Olive Eleagnuspungens +Pittosporum tobira Silver Thorn Tobira Shrub Gardenia florida -^-Plumbago capensis alba Cape Jasmine White Leadwort + Hibiscus rosa-sinensis -\-Rosa (on multiflora stock) Chinese Hibiscus Garden Roses Hydrangea hortensis -\-Tabernaemontanacoronariaflore plena Japanese Hydrangea Rose Bay Ixora colei (T) Tetrapanax papyriferum White Ixora Rice Paper Plant +Lagerstroemia indie a Thunbergia erecta alba Crape Myrtle White Thunbergia -\-Laurocfrasus caroliniana Viburnum odoratissimum Wild Orange , Fragrant Japanese Viburnum -\-Viburnum tinus Laurestinus b. Pink flowers: \-Assonia punctata Hydrangea opuloides otaksa Pink Assonia Hydrangea + Azalea indica Ixora rosea splendens (T) Indian Azalea Rose-coloured Ixora \-Bauhinia purpurea triandra Lagerstroemia indica Pink-flowering Mountain Ebony Crape Myrtle Camellia japonica Nerium oleander Savort Japonica Pink Oleander -\-Cestrum elegans Punicea granatum Red Coral Jasmine Pomegranate Chaenomeles japonica Rhodomyrtus tomentosus (T) Japanese Quince Downy Myrtle Cotoneaster acuminata +Rosa (on multiflora stock) Rose Box Garden Roses -\-Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Tamarix caspica Chinese Hibiscus Tamarisk c . Yellow flowers: Acacia farnesiana Artobotrys odoratissimus Papinac False Ylang-Ylang -\-Allamanda nerifolia -\-Bauhinia tomentpsa (T) Yellow Allamanda Yellow Mountain Ebony PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 307 \-Caesalpina pulcherrima flava Barbadoes Flower Fence + Cestrum aurantiacum (T) Yellow Cestrum Hamelia sphatrocarpa Scarlet Bush Ixora flore luteo (T) Yellow Ixora -\-Jasminum nudiflorum Naked-flowered Jasmine -\-Jasminum primulinum New Chinese Jasmine d. Red flowers: -\-Acalypha hispida (T) Chenille Plant + Azalea indie a Indian Azalea Caesalpina pulcherrima Barbadoes Flower Fence Callistemon lanceolatus Bottle-brush Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Euphorbia pulcherrima Poinsettia Hamelia erecta fT) Scarlet Bush + Micheliajuscata Banana Shrub Paritium tiliaceum Yellow Ernajagua Podachaenium eminent Mexican Shrub Daisy +Rosa (on multiflora stock) Garden Roses -\-Stenolobium stans sambucifolia Yellow-flowering Elder + Tecoma stans Yellow Elder Thevetia nerlfolia Trumpet Flower + Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Chinese Hibiscus Ixora coccinea (T) Scarlet Ixora Lagerstroemia indica Crape Myrtle Lawsonia rubra Red Flowering Henna Malvaviscus arboreus Turk's Cap Nerium oleander DeBrun Double Crimson Oleander ^Roses (on multiflora stock) Garden Roses e. Purple and blue flowers: +Allamanda pur pur ea Purple Allamanda Asystasia bella Mackaya -\-Azalea indica Indian Azalea Bauhinia purpurea (T) Purple Mountain Ebony Callicarpa americana Beauty Fruit -{-Daedalacanthus nervosus (T) Blue Justicia Duranta repens Golden Dewdrop -\-Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Chinese Hibiscus Hydrangea opuloides otaksa Hydrangea Lagerestroemia indica Crape Myrtle -{Plumbago capensis Blue Leadwort G. GROUND-COVER PLANTS. This list contains a group of vines which are interesting for ground cover in partially shaded situations. Most of these vines are evergreen in their habit of foliage and are of 3 o8 THE COMPLETE GARDEN value for covering banks and other bare areas where it is desired to have another covering than grass. Ferns (in moist shade) Lonicera sempervirens Ferns Coral Honeysuckle Gelsemium sempervirens Zebrina pendula Carolina Jasmine Wandering Jew Hedera helix Zoysia matrella English Ivy Manilla Grass Lonicera japonica halliana Zoysia tenuifolia Japanese Honeysuckle Mascarene Grass H. SHRUBS FOR SHADY CONDITIONS. The following is a group of shrubs most of which are evergreen in their foliage characteristics, and all of which are adapted for plantations in partial shade, either under large trees or on the north side of buildings where full sunlight is not available. Azalea indica Ligustrum amurense Indian Azalea Amoor River Privet Camellia japonica Ligustrum nepalense variegata Japonica Variegated Nepaul Privet Hamelia erecta Osmanthus fragrans Scarlet Bush Sweet Olive Hamelia sphaerocarpa Severinia buxifolia Scarlet Bush Severino's Citrus I. HERBACEOUS PLANTS. This group includes plants many of which are semi-woody in character and which fundamentally are known as herbaceous stock. There is still a great opportunity to introduce a number of the northern types of herbaceous stock into the garden plantations of Florida. This list is compiled as a partial list of those which to date have been found to be of real interest and value. Many other plants may be added to this list in safety, but because of the lack of record of experiments conducted with their growth in this climate they have not been included. The climate of middle and southern Florida has been aptly described by one horticulturist as that of a great out-of-door greenhouse. The climate is such that many of the flowering annuals so familiar to the gardens of the north prove failures when grown in the Florida garden. Such plants as the annual larkspur, snapdragon, China aster, sweet William, and baby's breath, producing such an abundance of cut flowers when grown in the north, are grown with little success in Florida. PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 309 Nasturtiums, annual phlox, gaillardia, zinnias, and marigolds pro- duce quantities of flowers. In the north such annuals are seeded in the latter part of April. Flowers are then produced early in July. In the Florida garden, if flowers are desired early in January, the nasturtium seeds are sown during the first week of September, alyssum seeds not later than No- vember tenth, sweet peas in early September, and the other annuals, such as annual phlox, gaillardia, verbenas, annual carnation, and calendulas, are seeded not later than the first week in October. If flowers are wanted at an earlier date seeds should be sown proportion- ately earlier. The winter months are better for the growth of flowers. Very few persons in Florida attempt to grow annuals during the hot and usually dry months of summer. It seems at first, to the garden lover from the north, that any of the northern garden flowers should grow vigorously in the Florida cli- mate. Many keen disappointments await these persons. Those who have tried growing many kinds in an effort to obtain garden flower effects and flowers for table use have finally accepted, as the reliable types, the few that are starred in the following group: *Acalypha hispida *Dianthus caryophyllus Chenille Plant Carnation Agave Funkia (north only) Century Plant Plantain Lily Ageratum *Gaillardia grandiflora Floss Flower Blanket Flower * Alyssum (in variety) Gynerium (north only) Madwort Pampas Grass * Aster novae-angliae Climax Gypsophila paniculata Blue Hardy Aster Baby's Breath Bambusa (in variety) Hemerocallis (north only) Bamboo Day Lily Chrysanthemum (north only) Hippeastrum Chrysanthemum Amaryllis Clerodendron squamatum Iris hexagona Chinese Tube-flower Florida Iris Codiaeum variegatum (in variety) Lantana (T) Croton Lantana *Coreopsis tinctoria Lilium henryi Tickseed Yellow Lily Cyperus alternifolius Limnocharis humboldti Umbrella Plant Water Poppy 3io THE COMPLETE GARDEN Nelumbo American Lotus Nuphar Spatter-dock Nymphaea Water-lily *Phlox drummondi Drummond's Phlox Russelia juncea Fountain Plant *Tropaeolum majus Nasturtium * Verbena hybrida Verbena Vinca Periwinkle Viola Violet *Yucca filamentosa Adam's Needle *Zinnia elegans Zinnia J. PLANTS FOR SEASHORE PLANTING. Peculiar as it may seem, along the shores of the larger lakes, and along the seashore particularly, the group of plants which can be used is restricted to those plants which are particularly adapted to light, sandy soils and also to withstand the heavy storms, mostly in the nature of wind storms, to which such plants are often subjected. a. Trees: Casuarina equisetifolia Australian Pine Coccoloba unifera Shore Grape Eucalyptus citriodora Lemon Gum Ficus aurea Wild Rubber Gliricidia maculata Madre Ilex opaca American Holly Juniperus barbadensis Red Cedar Liquidambar styraciflua Sweet Gum Palms (in variety) Pithecolobium dulce Manila Tamarind Plumeria (in variety) Frangipani Trees b. Shrubs: Acacia farnesiana Papinac Caesalpina pulcherrima Barbadoes Flower Fence Callistemon Bottle-brush Carissa acuminata Natal Plum Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Chinese Hibiscus Ixora (in variety) Ixora Lagerstroemia indica Crape Myrtle Myrica cerifera Bayberry Nerium oleander Oleander Pittosporum tobira Tobira Shrub Tamarix caspica Tamarisk Thevetia nereifolia Trumpet Flower EtaCnv. PLATE XLIX. In the selection of perennials for the garden not only should the possibilities of interesting colour combinations in the flower effects be ob- served, but also the possibilities for interesting texture of foliage. (A) lark- spur; (B) lemon lily (commonly called day lily). (See page 231) .<.-:: * : . PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 311 c. Vines: Allamanda Clerodendron thompsonae Allamanda Vine Scarlet Clerodendron Bignonia unguis-cati Cryptostegia madagascariensis Argentine Trumpet Vine Pink Madagascar Cryptostegia Bougainvillea Solatium Paper Flower ^ Tomatillo CHAPTER XLIV PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA THE lists given in this chapter cover the more common uses for which plants are selected. Perennial lists are not given because perennial plantings succeed according to the skill of the grower in adapting them to his location and giving them necessary winter protection. Constant care must be exercised to replace winter losses. The discussion in the main part of the foregoing text under the different lists and groups of plants applies equally well to most of the northern part of the United States, including Minnesota and adjoining territory. Throughout this region spring planting is preferable to autumn, if it is done early enough, except of course for peonies and irises. In es- pecially dry autumn weather autumn-planted stock is quite likely to prove a total loss. Ordinary shrubs and trees can be moved in the autumn under good conditions and this is also true of locally grown conifers moved in September; but other plants, and especially the perennials, should be moved only in the spring. Owing to the severity of the climate, especially in dry winters, sometimes without snow more than six inches deep, there is little tendency to encourage experimenting with half-hardy stock and most of the lists given are short. These lists apply to an area within a two-hundred-mile radius of the Twin Cities in every direction. In eastern Wisconsin the Great Lakes would temper the climate, while northern Minnesota would be still more severe than at the Twin Cities, especially on sandy pine soils. Western Minnesota is quite similar, but a little more subject to drought and high winds. Central Iowa can grow a slightly larger list of plants because of a warmer climate and perhaps a little more rainfall. In making a selection of plants from any of the other lists in this book for use in this region, first consult List XLIV-G to eliminate all types which have proved not hardy. The other lists may be consulted freely 312 PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 313 with this exception. All plants of questionable hardiness should be carefully protected. LIST OF PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA A. HEDGES. Owing to the severe exposure to which a hedge may be subjected only small groups can be recommended as entirely "iron- clad." No broad-leaved evergreens can be listed and only the most hardy sorts of conifers, among them being the Black Hills variety of the white spruce, given here as pice a canadensis. Early spring-flowering shrubs like the golden bell and deutzia are not hardy and none of the beeches should be used for windbreaks or other types of hedges. Most of the other plants shown in Chapter XII can be planted safely. a. Barriers: Crataegus coccinea Picea excelsa Scarlet-fruited Thorn Norway Spruce Hippophae rhamnoides Rhamnus cathartica Sea Buckthorn Common Buckthorn Juniperus virginiana Ribes alpinum Red Cedar Alpine Currant Lonicera tatarica Ribes oxycanthoides Tartarian Honeysuckle Wild Gooseberry Picea canadensis Rosa rugosa Black Hills Spruce Japanese Rose b. Windbreaks: Acer tataricum Pinus strobus Tartarian Maple White Pine Picea canadensis Pinus sylvestris Black Hills Spruce Scotch Pine Pinus nigra austriaca Salix Austrian Pine Willow B. GROUND COVER. No evergreen ground-cover plants seem to prove hardy in the region covered by this list, and so the plants given are confined to deciduous shrubs and vines. Perennials can be used in proportion to the winter protection provided for them. a. Shrubs: Artemisia sericea Ribes aureum Siberian Wormwood Flowering Currant Comptonia asplenifolia Ribes oxycanthoides Sweet Fern Wild Gooseberry 3H THE COMPLETE GARDEN Rosa arkansana Spiraea sorbifolia Arkansas Rose Sorb-leaved Spirea Rubus odoratus Spiraea tomentosa Flowering Raspberry Hardback Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian-currant b. Vines: Ampelopsis quinquefolia Lycium halimifolium Virginia Creeper Matrimony Vine Celastrus scandens Menispermum canadense American Bitter-sweet Common Moonseed C. PLANTS VALUABLE FOR AUTUMN COLOURATION OF LEAVES. Only plants which show good autumn colour, either at an early or medium season, prove valuable in this region since late colour is in- variably destroyed by hard freezes. a. Early: Acer negundo Celtis occidentalis Box Elder Nettle Tree Acer rubrum Populus eugenei Red Maple Carolina Poplar Acer saccharum Rhus typhina Sugar Maple Stagborn Sumac Betula lutea Sassafras officinale Yellow Birch Common Sassafras b. Medium: Ampelopsis quinquefolia Quercus rubra Virginia Creeper Red Oak Berberis thunbergi Faccinium corymbosum Thunberg's Japanese Barberry High-busb Blueberry Fraxinus americana Viburnum acerifolium White Ash Maple-leaved Viburnum D. HEAVY, FORMAL EFFECTS. Either due to the prevalence of ice storms which break them down or to their inherent lack of hardiness, most of the plants which are elsewhere available for heavy, formal effects are not available in this region. This group is accordingly a small one. Juniperus virginiana Picea excelsa pyramidalis Red Cedar Pyramidal Norway Spruce Juniperus virginiana glauca Populus alba pyramidalis Blue Virginia Cedar Bolle's Poplar Populus nigra italica Lombardy Poplar PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 315 E. STREET TREES. The group of trees (a) given as entirely hardy is interesting for the following reasons: The American linden, here substituted for the European linden which is of doubtful hardi- ness is not ordinarily used elsewhere on account of dropping its leaves in late summer when used as a city street tree. The hackberry, while a native of the major part of the United States east of the Rocky Mountains, does not succeed well enough outside of the northwestern portion of its range to enable listing it elsewhere as a street tree. Its natural habitat is rich, moist soil. The white ash is a handsome orna- mental tree native of the eastern United States and not nearly often enough used as a street tree. a. Entirely hardy under all conditions: Acer saceharum Quercus coccinea . Sugar Maple Scarlet Oak Celtis occidentalis Quercus rubra Nettle Tree Red Oak Fraxinus americana Tilia americana White Ash American Linden Ulmus americana American Elm b. Which should be selected with a thorough knowledge of the condi- tions under which they are to be used: Acer sac char irturn Populus eugenei Soft Maple Carolina Poplar Acer platanoides Pyrus ioensis Norway Maple Western Crab Setula papyrifera Sorbus americana Paper Birch American Mountain Ash F. EVERGREENS MOST USED. The group of conifers most used in Minnesota is restricted to a few of the "ironclad" sorts. These are all native species and when used the following notes should be borne in mind. The hemlock is not naturally adapted to windswept places anywhere, and especially not in this region. Of the white fir only the Colorado form should be used, and while this plant will withstand considerable heat and drought it is intolerant of smoke and soot. The arborvitae suffers frequently from ice storms and should be protected from them. The Douglas spruce is one of the fastest if not the fastest 3 i6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN growing conifer. It produces a soft foliage which requires that it be planted in groups for mutual protection against strong winds. Abies concolor Pinus nigra austriaca White Fir Austrian Pine Juniperus (in variety) Pinus resinosa Cedar Red Pine Picea alba Pinus strobus White Spruce White Pine Picea canadensis Pinus sylvestris Black Hills Spruce Scotch Pine Picea excelsa Pseudotsuga douglasi Norway Spruce Douglas Fir Picea pungens glauca Thuja occidentalis (in variety) Koster's Blue Spruce American Arborvitae Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock G. NOT HARDY IN MINNESOTA. The following group contains plants which are not hardy when used in the Minnesota section. These plants are generally in one of three groups: the early spring-flow- ering types, the broad-leaved and tender evergreens, and those which ripen their wood late in the fall. As a result of years of experience in landscape planting, these types have not proved hardy, although many of them are extremely hardy when used throughout the northwestern and central portions of the United States. Acer palmatum Cornus florida Japanese Maple Flowering Dogwood Akebia quinata Cornus kousa Five-leaved Akebia Japanese Dogwood Azalea (in variety) Cornus mas Azalea Cornelian Cherry Benzoin aestivale Deutzia (in variety) Spice Bush Deutzia Buxus (in variety) Exochorda (in variety) Boxwood Pearl Bush Callicarpa (in variety) Fagus sylvatica Mulberry European Beech Catalpa (in variety) Forsythia (in variety) Indian Bean Golden Bell Cercis canadensis Halesia tetraptera Red-bud Silver Bell Tree Chamaecyparis (in variety) Hibiscus (in variety) Japanese Cypress Rose of Sharon Clethra alnifolia Ilex (except verticillata) Sweet Pepper Bush Holly PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 317 Jasminum (in variety) Magnolia (in variety) Jasmine Magnolia Kalmia (in variety) Mahonia (in variety) Laurel Oregon Grape Kerria (in variety) Myrica (in variety) Globe-flower Bay berry Ligustrum (most varieties) Prunus (most varieties) Privet Flowering Almonds and Cherries Lonicera japonica halliana Rhododendron (in variety) Japanese Honeysuckle Rhododendron Taxus (in variety) Yew CHAPTER XLV PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES THE territory for which this list has been prepared comprises that lying between the Atlantic Ocean on the east and the Appalachian foot- hills or Piedmont on the west, and extending from Washington, D. C., to Savannah, Atlanta, and southern Alabama. This territory includes the eastern half of Virginia and of North Carolina, nearly all of South Carolina and of Georgia and all of Alabama lying south and east of Birmingham (See Plate No. II). Owing to the influence of the mountains on the west and north, and of the Atlantic Ocean with its Gulf Stream on the east, this territory is especially favourable for the growing of plants which would not succeed at the same latitude farther inland. This territory has a high annual average humidity and a rainfall of 50 to 60 inches each year. It has a low narrow range in temperature about 30 degrees and a long growing season, extending from one hundred and eighty days in the north to two hundred days in the south. All of these factors con- tribute to the successful growth of many somewhat tender plants and in some cases also force the growth of northern plants to a great size. The most that can be done under present conditions with a list of this kind and until such time as further information is compiled, is to tabu- late some of the more important types of plants which have been used throughout this southern territory. It must be remembered that with the much longer growing season and the higher average of rainfall plants will grow much more vigorously and much larger than the same plants will grow throughout the northern zones. Plants which may be adapted to a certain use in the zones farther north may be en- tirely inappropriate for a similar use in this southern territory. For this reason intimate knowledge should be obtained concerning the growing characteristics of any types that are to be introduced into the southern conditions. Many of the plants adapted for use in the northern zones will readily produce an abnormal growth in these southern zones as represented by 318 PLATE L. A few water lilies may enhance a picture such as the above, but a proper restraint on their use and control is always desirable. (See page 234, group XXXI-L-a) PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 319 the south Atlantic states. On the other hand, very few of the plants which are indigenous to this south Atlantic area will prove hardy when used in the territory north of Washington. For instance, Hall's climbing honeysuckle is one of the plants common to both the northern zone and the southern zone, but in the southern territory this plant produces a much more interesting development of foliage and of flowers while in the northern zones the same plant suffers severely from winter- killing of the small and more tender portions of its growth. There are a few of our desirable northern types, such as lilacs, which adjust themselves with extreme difficulty to the changed climatic conditions. On the other hand, the hydrangea is grown with remarkable success in the south. LIST OF PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES A. GROUND COVER. This group of plants for ground cover is more restricted than the group including plants available for use farther north. This is due to the fact that many herbaceous perennials do not succeed in the long, hot summers of the south. a. Moist places: Asarum arifolium Houstonia serpyllifolia Mottled Snakeroot Creeping Bluet Asarum virginicum Lysimachia nummularia Virginia Snakeroot . Moneywort Dalibarda repens Phlox subulata Barren Strawberry Moss Pink Evonymus radicans Sedum nevi Climbing Evonymus Nevius' Stonecrop Hedera helix Vinca minor English Ivy Periwinkle Helonias bullata Viola cornuta Swamp Pink Tufted Pansy b. Dry places: . Ampelopsis quinquefolia Coronilla cappadocica Virginia Creeper Mediterranean Crown Vetch Ampelopsis tricuspidata veitchi Coronilla emerus Boston Ivy Scorpion Senna Ceratiola ericoides Coronilla varia Southern Heather European Crown Vetch Clematis paniculata Duchesnea indica Japanese Clematis fellow Strawberry 320 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Iris cristata Crested Iris Lonicera browni Brown's Honeysuckle Lonicera heckrotti Purple-flowering Honeysuckle Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Opuntia vulgaris Barberry Fig Saxifraga virginiensis Early-blooming Saxifrage Shortia galacifolia Shortia Vinca major Trailing Vinca Yucca filamentosa Adam's Needle Yucca flaccida Drooping-leaved Adam's Needle B. HEDGES. The following groups include mostly plants which are distinctive in this region or are not available for use farther north. This is especially true of the evergreen list. a. Holding leaves throughout winter: Abelia chinensis Chinese Abelia Abelia floribunda Mexican Abelia Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Abelia triflora Himalayan Abelia Acacia armata Kangaroo Thorn Azalea amoena Hardy Evergreen Azalea Berberis hakeoides Chilean Barberry Buxus (in variety) Boxwood Buxus sempervirens Tree Box Buxus suffruticosa Dwarf Box Camellia japonica Japonica Cedrus deodara Deodar Chamaecypario Japanese Cypress Cinnamomum camphora Camphor Tree Cotoneaster rotundifolia lanata Box-leaved Cotoneaster Gardenia jasminoides Cape Jasmine Prunus laurocerasus English Laurel Ilex aquifolium English Holly Ilex crenata Japanese Holly Ilex opaca American Holly Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar Libocedrus decurrens Incense Cedar Ligustrum amurense Amoor River Privet Ligustrum ibota Japanese Privet Ligustrum japonicum Evergreen Privet Ligustrum lucidum Shining-leaved Privet Ligustrum nepalense Nepaul Privet Ligustrum quihoui Late-blooming Privet Ligustrum sinense Chinese Privet Osmanthus aquifolium Fragrant Olive Osmanthus fragrans Sweet Olive Pittosporum tobira Tobira Shrub Prunus caroliniana Carolina Laurel Cherry PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 321 Pyracantha coccinea lalandi Thuja orientalis Evergreen Thorn Oriental Arborvitae Thea sinensis Viburnum tinus Tea Plant Laurestinus Yucca filamentosa Adam's Needle b. Not holding leaves throughout winter: Acer campestre Deutzia purpurasctns European Cork Maple Purple-flowered Deutzia Citrus trifoliata Hibiscus syriacus Hardy Orange Rose of Sharon Deutzia kalmiaeflora Ligustrum ovalifolium Pink-flowered Hybrid Deutzia California Privet Deutzia longifolia Lonicera fragrantissima Long-leaved Deutzia Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Deutzia myriantha Prunus americana White-flowered Hybrid Deutzia Wild Plum Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose C. TREES FOR STREET PLANTING. This group comprises only those street trees which are most likely to produce the best results under normal conditions. Aesculus indica Gleditsia jdponica Himalayan Horse-chestnut Japanese Honey Locust Aesculus octandra Gleditsia sinensis Sweet Buckeye Chinese Honey Locust Aesculus wilsoni Liquidambar styraciflua Wilson's Chinese Horse-chestnut Sweet Gum Ailanthus glandulosa Magnolia acuminata Tree of Heaven Cucumber Tree Celtis mississippiensis Magnolia grandiflora Southern Hackberry Magnolia Celtis occidentalis Magnolia tripetala Nettle Tree Umbrella Tree Celtis sinensis Nyssa syhatica Chinese Nettle Tree Tupelo Fraxinus biltmoreana Quercus coccinea Biltmore Ash Scarlet Oak Fraxinus caroliniana Quercus imbricaria Water Ash Shingle Oak Ginkgo bUoba Quercus laurifolia Maidenhair Tree Laurel Oak Gleditsia delavayi Quercus nigra Long-spined Honey Locust Water Oak 322 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Quercus palustris Quercus rubra Pin Oak Red Oak Quercus phellos Quercus virginiana Willow Oak Live Oak Ulmus alata Winged Elm D. EVERGREENS MOST USED. The climate of the south Atlantic states (Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, and Ala- bama) provides an opportunity to use the broad-leaved evergreens in great profusion as well as certain sorts of conifers which are not desir- able farther north. All the broad-leaved evergreens mentioned else- where in this book are useful in this region, as well as the coniferous plants named below. All of these plants, however, with the exception of the junipers, require at least partial shade (See Chapter XXXIII). The firs, spruces, hemlocks, American arborvitae, and Douglas fir should never be used in this region at elevations below 1,200 feet above sea level. Cedrus atlantica Chamacyparis pisifera filifera Mt. Atlas Cedar Thread-branched Cypress Cedrus atlantica glauca Chanuecyparis pisifera plumosa Mt. Atlas Silver Cedar Plume-like Cypress Cedrus deodara Cryptomeria japonica (in variety) Deodar Japanese Cedar Cedrus libani Cupressus sempervirens fastigiata Cedar of Lebanon Italian Cypress Cephalotaxus drupacea Juniperus virginiana glauca Large-fruited Yew Blue Virginia Cedar Cephalotaxus fortunei Libocedrus decurrens Fortune's Yew Incense Cedar Chamaecyparis ericoides Pinus excelsa Compact White Cedar Bhotan Pine Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Taxus baccata (in variety) Lawson s Cypress English Yew Chamaecyparis pisifera Taxus cuspidata (in variety) Pea-fruited Cypress Japanese Yew Thuja orientalis Oriental Arborvitae E. FORMAL EFFECTS. The plants in this group are mostly trees of a compact, upright habit of growth, and are useful as "exclamation points" and for marking axes in formal gardens. Catalpa bungei Cephalotaxus harringtoniana fastigiata Round-leaved Catalpa Columnar Stem-fruited Yew Cedrus deodara Cercidiphyllum japonicum Deodar Kadsura Tree PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 32.3 Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Lawson s Cypress Chamaecyparis thyoides White Cedar Cryptomeria japonica lobbi Lobb's Cypress Cunninghamia lanceolata Chinese Cunninghamia Cupressus sempervirens fastigiata Italian Cypress Hibiscus syriacus Rose of Sharon Ilex (in variety) Holly Juniperus chinensis Chinese Juniper Juniperus chinensis albo-variegata Silver-tipped Chinese Juniper Juniperus excelsa Greek Juniper Juniperus virginiana glauca Blue Virginia Cedar Juniperus virginiana schoiti Schott's Red Cedar Laurocerasus caroliniana Wild Orange Libocedrus decurrens Incense Cedar Ligustrum (in variety) Privet Quercus robur pedunculata English Oak Sciadopitys verticillata Umbrella Pine Taxodium distichum Bald Cypress Taxus (in variety) Yew Thuja orientalis pyramidalis Pyramidal Oriental Arborvitae F. BORDER PLANTING. As most plants, when used in the south Atlantic states, double their northern height, the problem is to find low-growers. The following groups have thus been confined to low- growing plants (below five feet) and medium-growing plants (from five to ten feet). a. Low-growing deciduous shrubs: Amorpha tennessensis Tennessee False Indigo Azalea canescens Fragrant Mountain Azalea Azalea gandavensis Ghent Azalea Azalea mollis Japanese Azalea Azalea nudiflora Pinkster Flower Azalea pontica Pontic Azalea Azalea vaseyi Carolina Azalea Azalea viscosa Swamp Azalea Herberts aristata Purple-fruited Barberiy Berberis canadensis Alleghany Barberry Berberis heteropoda Fragrant Barberry Berberis sieboldi Siebold's Barberry Berberis wilsonae Wilson's Barberry Callicarpa americana Beauty Fruit Callicarpa purpurea Beauty Fruit Caryopteris incana Blue Spirea Ceanothus hybridus Hybrid New Jersey Tea ' Comptonia asplenifolia Sweet Fern Coronilla emerus Scorpion Senna Cnrylopsis pauciflora Japanese Flowering Hazel THE COMPLETE GARDEN Daphne genkwa Lilac-flowered Daphne Daphne mezereum Caucasian Daphne Dfutzia gracilis Slender Deutzia Elsholtzia cristata Dwarf Elsholtzia Fothergilla gardeni Dwarf Alder Fothergilla parviflora Southern Dwarf Alder Hydrangea opuloides hortensia Garden Hydrangea Hypericum aureum Large-flowered St. John's Wort Hypericum ealycinum Aaron's Beard Hypericum glomeratum Mountain St. John's Wort Hypericum moserianum Gold-flower Hypericum nudiflorum Naked-flowered St. John's Wort Hypericum prolificum Shrubby St. John's Wort Zenobia speciosa Zenobia b. Low-growing evergreen shrubs: Abelia floribunda Mexican Abelia Ardisia crenulata rubra Ardisia Aucuba japonica Japanese Laurel Aucuba japonica latimaculata Spotted Japanese Laurel Azalea amoena Hardy Evergreen Azalea Azalea indica Indian Azalea Azalea indica kaempferi Orange-flowered Azalea Azalea obtusa Hardy Indian Azalea Serberis buxifolia Box-leaved Barberry Berberis darwini Darwin's Barberry Jasminum (in variety) Jasmine Meratia praecox Chinese Sweet Shrub Pieris mariana Stagger Bush Prunus triloba Flowering Plum Robinia hispida Rose Acacia Rosa rugosa Japanese Rose Rosmarinus officinalis Rosemary Salvia greggi Mexican Salvia Salvia greggi alba White Mexican Salvia Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer Crimson Spirea Stephanandra fiexuosa Stephanandra Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Berberis ilicifolia Holly-leaved Barberry Berberis sargentiana Evergreen Barberry Berberis stenophylla Small-leaved Barberry Buxus japonica aurea Golden Japanese Box Buxus su/ruticosa , Dwarf Box ?. Calluna vulgaris Scotch Heather Calluna vulgaris alba White-flowered Heather Camellia japonica Japonica Cleyera ochnacea Cleyera Cotoneaster dammeri Chinese Prostrate Cotoneaster PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 325 Cotoneaster horizontalis Prostrate Cotoneaster Cotoneaster microphylla Small-leaved Cotoneaster Cotoneaster microphylla gracilis Dwarf Cotoneaster Cotoneaster rotundifolia Round-leaved Cotoneaster Cotoneaster rotundifolia lanata Box-leaved Cotoneaster Cotoneaster thymifolia Thyme-leaved Cotoneaster Daphne cneorum Garland Flower Elaeagnus macrophylla Broad-leaved Oleaster Gardenia florida I Cape Jasmine Ilex glabra Inkberry Yucca gloriosa Late-flowering Adam's Needle Leiophyllum buxifolium Sand Myrtle Leucothoe catesbaei Catesby's Andromeda Mahonia aquifolium Oregon Grape Mahonia repens Creeping Mahonia Pieris floribunda Mt. Fetterbush \ Pieris japonica Japanese Fetterbush Rhododendron myrtifolium Myrtle-leaved Rhododendron Rhododendron p^unctatum Early-flowering Rhododendron Yucca filamentosa Adam's Needle Yucca glauca Early-flowering Adam's Needle c. Medium-growing deciduous shrubs: Aronia melanocarpa Black Chokeberry Baccharis halimifolia Groundsel Bush Benzoin aestivale Spice Bush Buddleia (in variety) Summer Lilac Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Calycanthus occidentalis Western Sweet-scented Shrub Cassia corymbosa Argentina Senna Chaenomeles sinensis .Chinese Flowering Quince Cistus laurifolius Laurel-leaved Rock Rose Clethra acuminata Mt. Pepper Bush Clethra tomentosa Woolly-leaved White Alder Cornus paucinervis Square-twigged Dogwood Corylus maxima purpurea Purple-leaved hazel Cotoneaster acutifolia Pointed-leaved Cotoneaster Cotoneaster multiflora Spanish Cotoneaster Cotoneaster racemiflora Cotoneaster Cytisus praecox Hybrid Broom Cytisus scoparius Scotch Broom Deutzia lemoinei Lemoine's Deutzia Deutzia rosea Dwarf Pink Deutzia Deutzia scabra Single White Deutzia Dirca palustris Leather-wood Elaeagnus longipes Japanese Oleaster Elaeagnus parviflora Small-leaved Silver Thoin Elaeagnus umbellata Japanese Oleaster Fnrsythia suspensa Drooping Golden Bell 326 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Genista tinctoria Dyer's Greenweed Halimodendron halodendron Salt Tree Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora Large-flowered Wild Hydrangea Hydrangea quercifolia Oak-leaved Hydrangea Ite a virginica Virginian Willow Kerria japonica Globe-flower Lespedeza bicolor Shrubby Bush Clover Lespedeza sieboldi Siebold's Desmodium Lonicera standishi Standish's Bush Honeysuckle Myrica carolinensis Bay berry d. Medium-growing evergreen shrubs: Myrica cerifera Bay berry Myrica gale Bayberry Myricaria germanica German Tamarisk Neviusia alabamensis Snow Wreath Prunus triloba Flowering Plum Spiraea prunifolia Bridal Wreath Spiraea vanhouttei Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath Styrax americana American Storax Styrax japonica Japanese Storax Styrax obassia Broad-leaved Storax Abelia floribunda Mexican Abelia Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Berberis hakeoidts Chilean Barberry Berberis neuberti latifolia Holly-leaved Barberry Buxus sempervirens handworihi Handworth's Tree Box Cotoneaster simonsi Himalayan Rose Box Elaeagnus pungens Silver Thorn Elaeagnus pungens variegata Variegated Silver Thorn Gardenia jasminoides Cape Jasmine Gardenia jasminoides fortuniana Fortune's Cape Jasmine Gardenia jasminoides veitchi Veitch's Cape Jasmine Ltrurus nobilis Bay Tree Ligustrum coriaceum Round-leaved Privet Mahonia aquifolium Oregon Grape Mahonia fortunei Chinese Mahonia Mahonia japonica Japanese Mahonia Mahonia pinnata Southwestern Mahonia Michelia fuscata Banana Shrub Myrtus communis True Myrtle Nandina domestica Japanese Nandina Pittospprum tobira Tobira Shrub Prunus laurocerasus schipkaensis Hardy English Laurel Raphiolepis indica Indian Hawthorn Rhododendron arbutifolium Dwarf Rhododendron Rhododendron catawbiense hybridum Hybrid Rhododendron Rhododendron ponticum Dwarf Rhododendron Skimmia japonica Japanese Skimmia Viburnum suspensum Pink Snowball Viburnum tinus Laurestinus PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 327 G. FRUIT VALUABLE FOR ITS COLOUR EFFECTS. The following plants bear fruit which makes them useful for ornamental planting. The group comprises mainly those species which are better adapted to southern conditions. Arbutus unedo Crataegus vailat Strawberry Tree Vail's Haw Ardisia crenulata Diospyros virginiana Scallop-leaved Ardisia Persimmon Aucuba japonica Diospyros kaki Japanese Laurel Persimmon Callicarpa americana Elaeagnus multiflora Beauty Fruit Gumi Celastrus (in variety) Elaeagnus pungtns maculata Bitter-sweet Yellow-spotted Oleaster Cleyera japonica Evonymus bungeanus Himalayan Cleyera Bunge's Spindle Tree Coriaria japonica Ilex (in variety) Japanese Coriaria Holly Cornus florida Lonicera (in variety) Flowering Dogwood Bush Honeysuckle Cotone aster (in variety) Magnolia grandiflora Rose Box Magnolia Cotoneaster francheti Magnolia hypoleuca Franchet's Rose Box Chinese Purple Magnolia Cotoneaster frigida Magnolia tripetala Rose Box Umbrella Tree Cotoneaster horizontalis Nandina domestica Prostrate Cotoneaster Japanese Nandina Cotoneaster microphylla Pyracantha coccinea lalandi Small-leaved Cotoneaster Evergreen Thorn Cotoneaster simonsi Rosa (in variety) Himalayan Rose Box Native Rose Crataegus collina Taxus baccata Round-fruited Thorn English Yew H. SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS. The following groups comprise only plants which are most successful when used singly or in small groups. a. Trees Albizzia julibrissin Aralia spinosa Mimosa Hercules Club Aleurites fordi Broussonetia papyrifera China Wood-oil Tree Paper Mulberry Aphananthe aspera Carya aquatica Chinese Hackberry Water Pecan 328 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Carya myristicaeformis Nutmeg Hickory Carya pecan Pecan Catalpa bungei Round-leaved Catalpa Cedrela sinensis Chinese Cedrela Cephalotaxus fortunfi Fortune's Yew Chilopsis saligna Flowering Willow Citrus trifoliata Hardy Orange Cladrastris lutea Yellow-wood Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood Diosporos virginiana Persimmon Fagus americana American Beech Fraxinus americana acuminata Silver-leaved White Ash Fraxinus pennsylvanica Red Ash Ginkgo biloba Maidenhair Tree Cleditsia japonica Japanese Honey Locust Gleditsia sinensis Chinese Honey Locust Gleditsia triacanthos Honey Locust Gymnocladus dioica Kentucky Coffee Tree Halesia Carolina Silver Bell Hovenia dulcis Japanese Raisin Tree Juglans cinerea Butternut Juglans sieboldiana Japanese Walnut Koelreuteria paniculata Varnish Tree Liquidambar stryaciflua Sweet Gum Magnolia (in variety) Magnolia Magnolia acuminata Cucumber Tree Magnolia denudata Yulan Magnolia Magnolia grandiflora Magnolia Magnolia macrophylla Great-leaved Magnolia Magnolia soulangeana Soulange's Magnolia Melia azedarach umbraculiformis Umbrella Tree Nyssa aquatica Cotton Gum Nyssa sylvatica Tupelo Oxydendrun arboreum Sourwood Parkinsonia aculeata Jerusalem Thorn Paulownia tomentosa Empress Tree Photinia arbutifolia Christmas Berry Photinia serrulata Evergreen Photinia Populus alba pyramidalis Bolle's Poplar Populus deltoides Southern Cottonwood Populus deltoides monilifera Northern Cottonwood Prunus cerasifera pissardi Purple Plum Pterocarya fraxinifolia False Walnut Pyrus coronaria Wild Crab Quercus acuta Korean Oak Quercus falcata Spanish Oak Quercus laurifolia Laurel Oak Quercus muhlenbergi Yellow Chestnut Oak Quercus nigra Water Oak Quercus pagodaefolia Swamp Spanish Oak PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 329 Sapium pebiferum Stereulia platanifolia Chinese Tallow Tree Japanese Varnish Tree Sophora japonica Taxodiumy distichum Japanese Pagoda Tree Bald Copress Ulmus montana pendula Camperdown Weeping Elm b. Shrubs: Aucuba japonica Ilex opaca Japanese Laurel American Holly iucuba japonica variegata Lagerstroemia indica Variegated Japanese Laurel Crape Myrtle Bambusa (in variety) Nerium oleander Bamboo Oleander Buddleia (in variety) Osmanthus aquifolium Summer Lilac Fragrant Olive Buxus (in variety) Prunus caroliniana Boxwood Carolina Laurel Cherry Callicarpa purpurea Prunus ilicifolia Beauty Fruit Evergreen Cherry Camellia japonica Prunus laurocerasus Japonica English Laurel Caryopteris incana Prunus lyoni Blue Spirea Islands Cherry Chilopsis linearis Rhus cotinus Flowering Willow Smoke Bush Chionanthus virginica Staphylea pinnata White Fringe European Bladder-nut Cornus capitata Staphylea trifolia Himalayan Dogwood American Bladder-nut Corylus maxima purpurea Stewartia pentagyna Purple-leaved Hazel Alleghany Stewartia Exochorda grandiflora Styrax japonica Pearl Bush Japanese Storax Gardenia (in variety) Viburnum tinus Cape Jasmine Laurestinus Hydrangea quercijolia Vitex agnus-castus Oak-leaved Hydrangea Chaste Tree I. PERENNIALS FOR GARDENS AND CUT FLOWERS. The following group of perennials includes several plants, such as the gladiolus, which are not hardy in the open ground in winter in the north. Most of the plants are the same sorts which are used elsewhere, but which have been selected after experience has shown their adaptability to the conditions of this territory. Aconitum (in variety^ Alstroemeria chilensis Monkshood Chilean Lily Adonis vernalis Alyssum (in variety) Pheasant's Eye Golden Tuft 330 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Anchusa (in variety) Alkanet Anemone coronaria Poppy-flowered Anemone Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi Hardy Marguerite Antirrhinum majus Snapdragon Aquilegia (in variety) Columbine Argemone (in variety) Prickly Poppy Artemisia (in variety) Wormwood Asclepias tuberosa Butterfly Weed Baptisia (in variety) False Indigo Dahlia (in variety) Garden Dahlia Delphinium (in variety) Larkspur Echinops (in variety) Globe Thistle Eryngium amethystinum Amethyst Sea Holly Eupatorium (in variety) White Snakeroot Filipendula hexapetala Herbaceous Meadow-sweet Funkia (in variety) Plantain Lily Gaittardia (in variety) Blanket Flower Gladiolus (in variety) Sword Flower Gypsophila (in variety) Chalk Plant Helenium (in variety) Sneezeweed Helianthemum (in variety) Rock Rose Helianthus (in variety) Hardy Perennial Sun-flower Hesperis matronalis Sweet Rocket Heuchera sanguinea Coral-bells Jncarvillea delevayi Hardy Gloxinea Iris (in variety) Iris Kniphofia uvaria Red-hot Poker Plant Lithospermum canescens Indian Paint Lobelia (in variety) Lobelia Lychnis coronaria Mullein Pink Oenothera (in variety) Evening Primrose Paeonia officinalis Old-fashioned Peony Paeonia suffruticosa Tree Peony Paeonia tenuifolia Fennel-leaved Peony Phlox (in variety) Garden Phlox Platycodon grandiflorum Balloon Flower Polemonium caeruleum American Jacob's Ladder Polemonium reptans Greek Valerian Primula (in variety) Primrose Pyrethrum coccineum Painted Daisy Salvia (in variety) Sage Thalictrum (in variety) Meadow-rue Veronica (in variety) Speedwell Viola (in variety) Violet J. PERENNIALS FOR NATURALIZING IN WILD GARDENS. The plants in this group are common sorts which after trial have proven adaptable and useful for naturalizing in this territory. This group could be considerably enlarged; but the species named will fill most of the requirements of ordinary planting schemes. PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES Actaea (in variety) Baneberry Adiantum pedatum Maidenhair Fern Allium moly Lily Leek Althaea officinalis Marsh Mallow Amorpha (in variety) False Indigo Arabis (in variety) Rock Cress Armeria (in variety) Sea Thrift Belamcanda chinensis Blackberry Lily Centranthus rubtr Red Valerian Cimicifuga racemosa Snakeroot Dalibarda repens Barren Strawberry Dentaria dip hy II a Two-leaved Toothwort Erytkronium americanum Adder's tongue Fragaria (in variety) Wild Strawberry Frittilaria meleagris Guinea-hen Flower Galanthus nivalis Common Snowdrop Galax aphylla Galax Habenaria ciliaris Yellow-fringed Orchis Liatris pycnostachya Blazing Star Lilium (in variety) Lily Mertensia virginica Bluebell Monarda (in variety) Bergamot Narcissus (in variety) Daffodil and Narcissus Saxifraga (in variety) Stone-breaker Sedum (in variety) Stonecrop Shortia galacifolia Shortia K. PLANTS WHICH ARE COMMONLY AND FREELY USED IN THE SOUTH BUT ARE NOT HARDY FARTHER NORTH. This group comprises trees and shrubs which are valuable and may be used in the south with safety, but which are not hardy in the north. a. Trees: Albizzia julibrissin Mimosa Aleurites fordi China Wood-oil Tree Cedrus atlantica Mt. Atlas Cedar Cedrus deodara Deodar Cedrus libani Cedar of Lebanon Libocedrus decurrens Incense Cedar Magnolia grandiflora Magnolia Melia azedarach, umbraculiformis Umbrella Tree Quercus acuta Korean Oak Quercus laurifolia Laurel Oak Quercus nigra Water Oak Quercus phellos Willow Oak Sophora japonica Japanese Pagoda Tree Stfrculia platanifolia Japanese Varnish Tree 332 THE COMPLETE GARDEN b. Shrubs: Arbutus unedo Ligustrum lucidum Strawberry Tree Shining-leaved Privet Ardisia crenulata Ligustrum nepalense Scallop-leaved Ardisia Nepaul Privet Aujcuba japonica Ligustrum quihoui Japanese Laurel Late-blooming Privet Berberis hakeoides Ligustrum sinense Chilean Barberry Chinese Privet Cassia corymbosa Michelia fuscata Argentine Senna Banana Shrub Chilopsis linearis Nandina domestica Flowering Willow Japanese Nandina Cleyera japonica Pittosporum tobira Himalayan Cleyera Tobira Shrub Gardenia florida Prunus caroliniana Cape Jasmine Carolina Laurel Cherry Jasminum primulinum Prunus laurocerasus Jasmine English Laurel Lagerstroemia indica The a sinensis Crape Myrtle Tea Plant Fiburnum tinus Laurestinus L. VINES FOR THE SOUTH. There is an extensive group of vines which can be used throughout the far south. Many of the vines so common to the north are extremely valuable because of their added growth during the longer growing season and their luxuriant foliage effects. Actinidia chinensis Clematis apiifolia Chinese Silver Vine Parsley-leaved Clematis Antigonon leptopus . Clematis crispa Mountain Rose Purple Clematis Berchemia racemosa Clematis flammula Supple-jack Sweet Clematis Berchemia scandens Clematis texensis Supple-jack Texas Clematis Bignonia capreolata Clematis viorna Cross Flower Leather-flower Bignonia chinensis Clematis virginiana Chinese Trumpet Creeper Wild Clematis Bignonia hybrida Ficus pumUa Hybrid Trumpet Creeper Climbing Fig Bignonia radicans Gelsemium sempervirens Trumpet Vine Carolina Yellow Jasmine Celastrus angulatus Gelsemium sempervirens flore plenc Chinese Bitter-sweet Double Yellow Jasmine PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 333 Hedera canariensis Algerian Ivy Hedera helix English Ivy Humulus lupulus Hop Vine Hydrangea petiolaris Climbing Hydrangea Jasminum officinale Jasmine Jasminum primulinum Jasmine Menispermum canadense Common Moonseed Parthenocissus henryana Henry's Ivy Passiflora caerulea Passion-flower Periploca graeca Silk Vine Pohgonum baldschuanieum Knotweed Pueraria hirsuta Kudzu Vine Pyrostegia venusta Flame Flower Smilax lanceolata Florida Smilax Solanum jasminoides grandiftorumi Jerusalem Cherry Vine Trachelospermum jasminoides Confederate Jasmine CHAPTER XLVI PLANTS FOR USE ON THE OREGON AND WASHING- TON COASTAL PLAIN THE planting districts in the northwest are very sharply defined. They include (i) the West Slope; that is, between the coast and the mountains, or west of the Cascade Range, and (2) eastern and central Oregon and eastern Washington; that is, all of the district sometimes spoken of as the Inland Empire where conditions show very marked changes. The following lists of plants apply only to (i), this being all of the territory west of the Cascade Range exclusive of the mountain slopes and known as the Oregon and Washington Coastal Plain. No effort has been made to compile lists for (2) known as the Inland Em- pire. There the rainfall is very much lighter, more snow falls in the winter, and much hotter days prevail in the summer, although the nights are always cool. There is also another separate district spoken of as southern Oregon. The elevation here is from one thousand to eighteen hundred feet, with conditions much drier than through the Willamette Valley and all through western Washington. The factor in southern Oregon which appears to control plant growth is water, and if one has plenty of that coupled with a reasonable amount of good soil, normal growth can be developed. Even in western Washington and Oregon the days are fairly warm and the nights in most cases are cool. This condition makes itself felt very much in the growth of annual vines, because they do not like the cool nights. This entire western country appears to be the natural home for coniferous evergreens and for most of the broad-leaved evergreens. They do wonderfully well all through the northwest, west of the mountains. Portland has become known as the Rose City. It has found one particular thing, however, that is not proving a success. The camellia has been largely planted and is generally proving more or less disappointing. The mountain laurel should probably be placed in the 334 OREGON AND WASHINGTON COASTAL PLAIN 335 same class. It does not appear to do well and yet rhododendrons planted under exactly the same conditions thrive. This section of the country is still on the uncharted list so far as complete information covering the lists of plants that are adapted to this territory is concerned. In addition to those plants which are tabulated in the following lists there is a wide range of plants which can be selected from the main text of this book, practically all of which plants are adapted for use in this territory. LIST OF PLANTS FOR USE ON THE OREGON AND WASH- INGTON COASTAL PLAIN A. HEDGES. This group is divided into deciduous and evergreen plants. It is noteworthy by reason of the fact that there are more broad-leaved plants than deciduous ones. This is not the case in other portions of the country, except possibly in the far south. a. Deciduous: Berberis thunbergi Ligustrum ibota Thunberg's Japanese Barberry Japanese Privet Chaenomeles japonica Ligustrum ovalifolium Japanese Quince California Privet Crataegus oxycantka Ligustrum vulgare May Thorn European Privet b. Evergreen: Aucuba japonica Picea excelsa Japanese Laurel Norway Spruce Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Prunus laurocerasus Lawson's Cypress English Laurel Ilex aquifolium Prunus lusitanica English Holly Portugese Laurel Ilex crenata Pyracantha coccinea Japanese Holly Evergreen Thorn Mahonia aquifolium Ulex europ&us Oregon Grape Gorse Viburnum tinus Laurestinus B. PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER. Practically all of these ground- coyer plants are evergreen in character; both those adapted to the open 336 THE COMPLETE GARDEN sun and those given for use in the shade. No attempt has been made to name the herbaceous perennials suitable for this purpose. a. Open sun: Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Bearberry Iberis sempervirens Evergreen Candytuft b. Shade: Evonymus radicans Climbing Evonymus Gaultheria shallon Salal Hedera helix English Ivy Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Phlox subulata Moss Pink Saxifraga cordifolia Saxifrage Lonicera japonica halliana Japanese Honeysuckle Pachysandra terminalis Japanese Spurge Vinca minor Periwinkle C. PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING. The shrubs and trees given in the group for refined lawn masses are confined largely to those sorts which are not generally available throughout the east for border plant- ing by reason of their soil and moisture requirements. The native collected plants are very similar to the same sort of material found throughout the northern central states. a. Refined lawn masses: Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Acer palmatum Japanese Maple Azalea hinodigiri Crimson Evergreen Azalea Azalea indica Indian Azalea Berberis buxifolia Box-leaved Barberry Berberis darwini Darwin's Barberry Berberis ilicifolia Holly-leaved Barberry Cattuna vulgaris Scotch Heather Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Cornus paniculata Grey Dogwood Cotoneaster francheti Franchet's Rose Box Cotoneaster simonsi Himalayan Rose Box Deutzia gracilis Slender Deutzia Diervilla hybrida Hybrid Weigela Enkianthus perulatus Enkianthus Erica mediterranea Pink Heather Forsythia suspensa fortunei Fortune's Golden Bell Lonicera maacki Late-blooming Honeysuckle OREGON AND WASHINGTON COASTAL PLAIN 337 Philadelphus lemoinei Lemoine's Mock Orange Pieris floribunda Mountain Fetterbush Prunus triloba Flowering Plum Spiraea vanhouttei Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath Syringa vulgaris hybrida Hybrid Lilac Viburnum carlesi Korean Viburnum b. Native and collected plants: Acer circinatum Vine Maple Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush Cornus nuttalli Oregon Dogwood Cornus stolonifera Red Osier Cornel Elaeagnus angustifolia Russian Olive Holodiscus discolor ariaefolius Ocean Spray Philadelphus lewisi Native Mock Orange Rhus glabra Smooth Sumac Rosa blanda Meadow Rose Rosa lucida Glossy Rose Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry Symphoricarpos vulgaris Indian Currant Viburnum americanum American High-bush Cranberry D. STREET AND AVENUE PLANTING. This group with the excep- tion of the Oregon maple and the thornless locust is practically identi- cal with a similar group for any portion of the northern and eastern states. Acer macrophyllum Oregon Maple Acer platanoides Norway Maple Acer pseudoplatanus Sycamore Maple Aesculus hippocastanum rubicunda Red Flowering Horse-chestnut Fraxinus americana White Ash Platanus orientalis Oriental Plane Quercus coccinea Scarlet Oak Robinia pseudacacia bessoniana Thornless Locust Tilia euchlora Crimean Linden Ulmus americana American Elm E. PLANTS FOR HEAVILY SHADED LOCATIONS. This group con- tains only plants native to this portion of the country and some of the better known plants given in previous lists. Abies balsamea Balsam Fir Calycanthus floridus Strawberry Shrub Chaenomeles jafonica Japanese Quince Gaultheria shallon Sahl 338 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Lonictra morrowi Philadelphus lewisi Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Native Mock Orange Mahonia nervosa Pinus strobus Dwarf Oregon Grape White Pine Philadelphus gordonianus Sambucus canadensis Gordon's Mock Orange American Elder Tsuga canadensis Canadian Hemlock F. PLANTS VALUABLE FOR AUTUMN COLOURATION OF LEAVES. The plants in this group are selected for their use to furnish colour in the landscape in autumn and special attention is called to the vine maple and Oregon dogwood which are not available in other sections of the country. Acer circinatum Cornus nuttalli Vine Maple Oregon Dogwood Acer ginnala Evonymus alatus Siberian Maple Cork-barked Burning Bush Acer rubrum Ligustrum amurense Red Maple Amoor River Privet Betula alba Quercus coccinea European White Birch Scarlet Oak Betula lenta Rhus glabra Black Birch Smooth Sumac Berberis thunbergi Stephanandra flexuosa Japanese Barberry Stephanandra Berberis wilsonae Tilia vulgaris Wilson's Barberry Common Linden G. VINES. This group of vines is very similar to the group previously given and shows the large number of species which are available in this territory. Ampelopsis engelmanni Evonymus radicans Englemann's Ampelopsis Climbing Evonymus Ampelopsis tricuspidata veitchi Hedera helix Boston Ivy English Ivy Bignonia radicans Jasminum nudiflorum Trumpet Vine Naked-flowered Jasmine Celastrus orbiculatus Jasminum primulinum Japanese Bitter-sweet New Chinese Jasmine Clematis montana Lonicera japonica halliana White Clematis Japanese Honeysuckle Clematis montana rubra Lonicera periclymenum belgica Red Clematis Dutch Honeysuckle Clematis paniculata Polygonum baldschuanicum Japanese Clematis Ivnotweed OREGON AND WASHINGTON COASTAL PLAIN 339 Pueraria thunbergiana Kudzu Vine Wisteria sinensis Chinese Wisteria Wisteria multijuga Japanese Wisteria H. EVERGREENS MOST USED. Among the plants grouped here will be found many coniferous and broad-leaved evergreens which it is not safe to use as far north as this in any other portion of the United States. Among these, in particular, are the cedar of Lebanon, Lawson's cypress, yellow cypress, hybrid abelia, and Portugese and English laurels. a. Conifers: Abies concolor White Fir Abies grandis Silver Fir Abies nobilis Red Fir Cedrus atlantica Mt. Atlas Cedar Cedrus deodora Deodar Cedrus libani Cedar of Lebanon Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Lawson's Cypress Chamaecyparis nootkatensis Yellow Cedar Picea engelmanni Engelmann's Spruce Picca sitchensis Sitka Spruce Pinus attenuata^ Knot-cone Pine Pinus contorta Oregon Pine Pinus monticola Mountain White Pine Pinus nigra austriaca Austrian Pine Pinus ponderosa Bull Pine Pinus radiata Monterey Pine Pinus strobus White Pine Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine Pseudotsuga douglasi Douglas Fir Chamaecyparis (all species) Japanese Cypress Taxus baccata English Yew Taxus baccata fastigiata Irish Yew Taxus brevifolia Western Yew Tsuga heterophylla Western Hemlock b. Broad-leaved: Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia Arbutus menziesi Madrona Aucuba japonica Japanese Laurel Berberis buxifolia Box-leaved Barberry Berberis ilicifolia Holly-leaved Barberry Berberis stenophylla Small-leaved Barberry 340 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Cotoneaster francheti Franchet s Rose Box Cotoneaster horizontalis Prostrate Cotoneaster Cotoneaster microphylla Small-leaved Cotoneaster Ilex aquifolium English Holly Ilex crenata Japanese Holly Ligustrum japonicum Evergreen Privet Osmanthus aquifolium Fragrant Olive Photinia glabra Japanese Photinia Pieris fioribunda Mountain Fetterbush Prunus laurocerasus English Laurel Prunus lusitanica Portuguese Laurel Rhododendron catawbiense hybridum Hybrid Rhododendron BIBLIOGRAPHY BIBLIOGRAPHY THE following is a compilation of the more important practical books on various subjects relating to landscape plantings and of interest to the gar- dener and to the owner of private estates. An effort has been made to in- clude a reference list of some of the more important articles which have appeared from time to time in different magazines, as discussions on these sub- jects. An attempt has been made in compiling this list of references not to cover the entire field of literature written on these subjects, but to include only a sufficient number of books of real value from which information can be readily obtained. The author does not wish to imply that there are not many other interest- ing publications pertaining to this subject matter. It is imperative, however, that this list should not become overburdened, and yet, if references have been omitted which should have been included, any suggestions or corrections will be welcome. BOOKS Botany Manual of the Flora of the Northern States and Canada, by N. L. Britton. Field, Forest and Garden Botany, by Asa Gray. Official Catalog of Plant Names, by American Joint Committee on Horticultural Nomenclature. Bulbs Daffodils, by Joseph Jacob. The Bulb Book, by John Weathers. Bulb Culture, by Henderson. Bulb Garden, by Grace Tabor. The Book of Bulbs, by S. Arnott. Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants, by C. L. Allen. Daffodils, Narcissus, and How to Grow Them, by M. Kirby. Tulips, by Joseph Jacob. Evergreens and Rhododendrons Evergreens and How to Grow Them, by C. L. Harrison. The Rhododendron and American Plants, by E. S. Rand, Jr. Handy Book of Ornamental Conifers and Rhododendrons, by H. Fraser. Hedges and Evergreens, by J. A. Warder. Rhododendrons and Azaleas, by Wm. Watson. 343 344 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Flower Gardens (Perennials and Annuals) The Book of Perennials, by H. H. Saylor. The Book of Annuals, by H. H. Saylor. Color Schemes in the Flower Garden, by Gertrude Jekyll. The Flower Garden, by Ida Bennett. The American Flower Garden, by Neltje Blanchan. The English Flower Garden, by W. Robinson. Flower Gardening, by H. S. Adams. Familiar Flowers of Field and Garden, by F. S. Matthews. Color in My Garden, by Louise B. Wilder. Irises, by W. R. Dykes. The Book of the Peony, by Mrs. Edward Harding. Our Garden Flowers, by Harriet L. Keeler. The Garden, Month by Month, by Mabel Sedgwick. Flower Gardens A Selected List of Books, The New York Public Library (January, 1915). The Garden Blue Book, by L. B. Holland. Popular Garden Flowers, by Walter Page Wright. Garden Flowers of Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter, by Ellen E. Shaw, edited by Leonard Barren. Forestry Forest Mensuration, by H. S. Graves. Foresters' Manual, by E. T. Seton. Principles of American Forestry, by S. B. Green. Practical Forestry, by John Gifford. Practical Forestry, by Andrew S. Fuller. Principles of Handling Woodlands, by H. S. Graves. A List of Books on Trees and Forestry, Boston Public Library, 1899. Garden Architecture The Practical Book of Garden Architecture, by Phoebe W. Humphrey. The Book of Garden Furniture, by Charles Thonger. Garden Ornaments, by Gertrude Jekyll. Italian Gardens, by Inigo Triggs. Herb Gardens The Herb Garden, by Frances A. Bardwell. The Book of the Scented Garden, by F. W. Burbridge. Japanese Gardens The Art of Landscape Gardening in Japan, by Josiah Conder. Landscape Gardening in Japan, by Josiah Conder. The Flowers and Gardens of Japan, by Florence Du Cane. Japanese Flower Arrangement Applied to Western Needs, by Mary Averill. BIBLIOGRAPHY 345 Lawns Lawns and How to Make Them, by Leonard Barron. Making a Lawn, by Luke J. Doogue. Turf for Golf Courses, by Piper and Oakley. Miscellaneous The New Gardening, by Walter P. Wright. Catalog of the Codman Collection of Books on Landscape Gardening, Boston Public Library, 1899. The Landscape Beautiful, by F. A. Waugh. Practical Landscape Gardening, by Robert B. Cridland. Gardening for Beginners, by E. T. Cook. Farm and Garden Rule Book, by L. H. Bailey. Manual of Gardening, by L. H. Bailey. Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, by L. H. Bailey. Gardeners ' Dictionary, by G. W. Johnson. The Book of Topiary, by C. H. Curtis and W. Gibson. My Growing Garden, by J. Horace MacFarland. Book of Garden Plans, by Stephen F. Hamblin. Native Plants Wild Flowers of New England, by Lincoln. Ferns and How to Grow Them, by G. A. Woolson. Ferns and Their Haunts, by W. N. Clute. The Book of Choice Ferns, by G. Schneider. An Illustrated Flora, by N. L. Britton and Addison Brown. Our Northern Shrubs, by Harriet L. Keeler. Silva of North America, by C. S. Sargent. Field Book of American Trees and Shrubs, by F. S. Mathews. Pennsylvania Trees, by J. S. Illick. Plant Life of Alabama, by Charles Mohr. Tree Book, by Julia E. Rogers. Trees and Shrubs of Northeastern America, by C. S. Newhall. Wild Flowers of the North American Mountains, by Julia W. Henshaw. Key to Trees of Northeastern United States and Canada, by Collin and Preston. A Guide to the Wild Flowers, by Alice Lounsberry. Ornamental Trees and Shrubs Aristocrats of the Garden, by E. H. Wilson. Trees and Shrubs, by C. S. Sargent. Ornamental Shrubs of the United States, by A. G. Apgar. Garden Trees and Shrubs, by W. P. Wright. Shade Trees in Towns and Cities, by William Solataroff. Ornamental Shrubs for Garden, Lawn, and Park Planting, by L. D. Davis. 346 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Plant Diseases Fungus Diseases of Plants, by B. M. Duggar. Injurious Insects of the Farm and Garden, by Mrs. Mary Treat. Spraying of Plants, by E. G. Lodeman. Insects and Insecticides, by C. M. Weed. Propagation of Plants Plant Propagation, by Alfred C. Hottes. Plant Culture, by George W. Oliver. Nursery Book, by L. H. Bailey. Plant Breeding, by L. H. Bailey. Plant Physiology, With Special Reference to Plant Production, by B. M. Duggar. Plant Propagation, by M. G. Kains. Art of Propagation, by J. Jenkins. Pruning Pruning Manual, by L. H. Bailey. Principles and Practice of Pruning, by M. G. Kains. Rock Gardens Alpine Flowers and Rock Gardens, by Walter P. Wright. Alpine Flowers for Gardens, Rock, Wall, Marsh Plants and Mountain Shrubs, by W. Robinson. Making a Rock Garden, by H. L. Adams. The Small Rock Garden, by F. H. Jenkins. My Rock Garden, by R. J. Farrer. Roses Roses, by H. R. Darlington. Roses, Their History, Development, and Cultivation, by J. H. Pemberton. The Rose, by H. B. Ellwanger. Parsons, On the Rose, by S. B. Parsons. The Practical Book of Outdoor Rose Growing, by Geo. C. Thomas, Jr. A Book about Roses, by S. Reynolds Hole. Roses and Rose Gardens, by W. P. Wright. Everblooming Roses for the Outdoor Garden of the Amateur, by G. T. Drennan. Street Trees Field Book for Street Tree Mapping, by William Solataroff. Trees in Lawn, Street, and Park, by B. E. Fernow. BIBLIOGRAPHY 347 Trees and Shrubs (Winter Characters and Form) New England Trees in Winter, by Blakeslee and Jarvis. Handbook of Trees of the Northern States and Canada, by Romeym B. Hough. Vines Climbing Plants, by W. Watson. Book of Climbing Plants, by S. Arnott. Vines and How to Grow Them, by William McCollum. A Concise Handbook of Climbers, Twiners, and Wall Shrubs, by H. P. Fitzgerald. Vines of Northeastern America, by C. S. Newhall. Wall Gardens Wall and Water Gardens, by Gertrude Jekyll. Water Gardens The Book of Water Gardening, by Peter Bisset. Rock and Water Gardens, by Charles Thonger. Making a Water Garden, by William Tricker. Water Lilies and Aquatics, by Peter Henderson. Water Lilies and How to Grow Them, by Conrad and Hus. Winter Protection Hedges, Shelters, Windbreaks, and Stone Fences, by E. P. Powell. ARTICLES PRUNING (ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING TREES, SHRUBS, VINES, AND PERENNIALS) TITLE OF ARTICLE AUTHOR MAGAZINE REFERENCE DATE Winter Pruning and Rockwell American Homes and Jan., 1913 Spraying Gardens Street Trees, Their A. D. Taylor Cornell Exper. Station Bull. 256 Care and Preserva- tion Pruning: A Fitting Kains Garden Magazine Dec., 1916 Winter Activity Pruning Shrubs and Barnes Suburban Life Apr., 191 1 Roses Pruning Table Suburban Life Mar., 1914 Suggestions for Shrub Rose Suburban Life Dec., 1912 Trimming in Win- ter 348 THE COMPLETE GARDEN TITLE OF ARTICLE AUTHOR Right Way to Trim a Solataroff Tree Pruning MAGAZINE REFERENCE Suburban Life Missouri Botanical Garden Bulletin Vol. VI, No. 9 DATE Apr., 1909 Nov., 1918 TRANSPLANTING TREES, SHRUBS, VINES, AND PERENNIALS Lurie Garden Magazine Oct., 1918 Pendleton Garden Magazine Oct., 1918 Garden Magazine July, 1918 How to Succeed with Fall Planting Fall Planting for Spring Flowers Experiences in Mid- summer Transplant- ing Planting and Shaping Young Trees Planting Trees by Machine Planting the Perennial Border Fall Heeling-in for Spring Planting Transplanting Big Trees Transplanting Out of 1 Season September Transplant- ing Perennials for Fall Planting How to Plant Trees and Shrubs Making a Success of Tree Planting Transplanting Large Trees Planting and Seeding Seasons Whitten Weed Tuthill Meller Johnson Platt McLaughlin Taylor Garden Magazine Scientific American House Beautiful Garden Magazine Garden Magazine Garden Magazine House Beautiful Countryside Maga- zine Suburban Life Suburban Life Countryside Maga- zine Landscape Archi- tecture Garden Magazine MAINTENANCE OF PLANTING AND LAWNS Green Grass in Dry Rockwell Country Life Weather Apr., 1915 Nov., 1916 Aug., 1916 Oct., 1916 Feb., 1917 July, 1917 Sept., 1917 Dec., 1914 Mar., 1908 Sept., 1914 Nov., 1915 Apr., 1919 Mar., 1920 Aug., 1916 BIBLIOGRAPHY 349 TITLE OF ARTICLE AUTHOR Getting the Lawn Oldcastle into Shape and Keeping it so Summer Care of the Bourne Lawn MAGAZINE REFERENCE Suburban Life Suburban Life DATE Apr., 1912 June, 1908 WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING Putting on the Gar- Wm. C. McCollum den's Winter Clothes To Protect Flowers Sinclair From Frost Putting the Garden Farrington into Its Winter Quarters Winter Protection Meller Winter Protection in Barnes the Garden Timely Fall Work in Rexford the Border Don't Hurry Winter Protection of Roses House and Garden Draftsman Countryside Maga- zine Garden Magazine Suburban Life Suburban Life Garden Magazine Dec., 1918 Dec., 1914 Oct., 1916 Nov., 1917 Nov., 1910 Nov., 1911 Oct., 1918 BULBS Fall Planting of Spring Bulbs Planting Bulbs for Mrs. Strang Spring Bloom Naturalizing Spring- Weed Flowering Bulbs Planting Tables for Bulbs Indoors and Outdoors All Summer Bulb Garden Farring- ton Summer-blooming Bulbs Rockwell for Spring Planting The Fall Budget and Mrs. Strang Its Springtime Yield Bulbs and Tuberous Plants Craftsman Garden Magazine House Beautiful Countryside Maga- zine Countryside Maga- zine Countryside Maga- zine House and Garden Missouri Botanical Garden Bulletin Vol. IV. No. 9 Oct., 1915 Oct., 1915 Oct., 1916 Sept., 1916 Apr., 1916 Apr., 1915 Oct., 1918 Sept., 1916 350 THE COMPLETE GARDEN ARTICLES MISCELLANEOUS TITLE OF ARTICLE The Best Hardy Coni- fers Evergreens for the Home Grounds Evergreens for the Home Landscape The Uses, Choice, and Planting of Ever- greens Native Plants Suitable for the Gardens of Missouri and Ad joining States Making an Old-Fash- ioned Garden The Perennial or Old- Fashioned Garden Planning Features for Garden Special Ef- fects The Garden of Wild Flowers Gardens of Sweet Odour Hardy Perennials for Landscape Use One Hundred Native Perennials for the Wild Garden Roses and How to Grow Them Have We Lost Some- thing in Roses? Hardy Shrubs That Can Be Forced Finding the Shrub to Fit the Place Dual Purpose Shrubs and Trees Shrubs with Brightly Coloured Twigs AUTHOR Wilson MAGAZINE REFERENCE Garden Magazine DATE Dec., 1915 Wild House and Garden Sept., 1914 Allen House and Garden Sept., 1915 Mrs. Strang House and Garden 1918 Missouri Botanical Garden Bulletin Vol. VIII Mrs. Strang House and Garden July, 1917 Wild House and Garden Oct., 1914 Hamblin Garden Magazine Feb., 1915 Mrs. Strang House and Garden Sept., 1918 Burke House and Garden Mar., 1915 Richie Garden Magazine Feb., 1915 Taylor Garden Magazine May, 1915 Rockwell House and Garden April, 1913 Barren Country Life June, 1914 Gibson Richie Gardener's Chron- icle of America Garden Magazine Oct., 1919 Apr., 1915 Farrington Country Life Mar., 1920 Miller Country Life Dec., 1915 BIBLIOGRAPHY TITLE OF ARTICLE Trees and Shrubs Worth Planting for TheirConspicuously Ornamental Fruits Ornamental Flowering Trees The Peril of Our Shade Trees SomeTreesand Shrubs for Trying Sites AUTHOR Wilson Porter MAGAZINE REFERENCE Garden Magazine Gardener's Chron- icle of America Country Life Garden Magazine 351 DATE Oct., 1915 Apr., May, June, July, 1920 Mar., 1916 Mar., 1914 GLOSSARY GLOSSARY THE author has attempted in this glossary to compile a set of terms or words commonly used in landscape literature pertaining to general planting design. Landscape architecture is one of the younger professions. It has no distinct vocabulary so recognized by the dictionary of to-day. Such words as establish, naturalize, open allee, pleached allee, puddle, and leggy as applied to the language of this profession require a definition other than those commonly given to such words. The definitions here given are those which are generally accepted by practicing landscape architects. No attempt has been made to define a large group of other words which are used in the general field of landscape construction work as differentiated from planting design and its execution. Accent Plant: A plant used to give prominence to its location either because of peculiarly interesting habit of growth, characteristics of fruit or of flowers or foliage. Acclimatize: v. To make accustomed to a climate to which a plant is not native. Acid Soil: A soil containing an excess of uncombined acids. Any acid soil is objectionable (even when only very slightly acid) to most plants, except ericaceous plants. Changes blue litmus paper to red. Agricultural Lime: An unstandardized product from the unburned cores of lime kilns* mixed with other better material but rarely having a better value than fine pulverized limestone. Air-slaked Lime: Is the compound formed by the action of carbon dioxide, from the air, on hydrated lime. Its formula is (Ca C O), or the same as pure lime- stone. Alkaline Soil: A soil containing an excess of uncombined alkali, lime, magnesia, sodium carbonate, etc. A good soil should be very slightly alkaline. Changes red litmus paper to blue. 355 356 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Alice, open: A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted trees or tall shrubs (of a height not less than twice the width between rows), and so maintained that either side presents a continuous vertical wall of close-growing foliage. Alice, pleached: A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted trees or shrubs, so maintained that the branches of the continuous walls of close-growing foliage arch and interweave across the top of the way, at a height of not less than seven or eight feet. Annuals: Plants which develop from seeds each year, mature, produce ripened seed, and die during the same growing season. Alpine Plants: Plants adapted to living in exposed situations but requiring a constant seepage of cool water through the soil surrounding their roots. Alpine plants are not drought-resisting. Anthracnose: A plant disease caused by a parasitic fungus of one definite class (melanconiae). Arborescent Shrubs: Those plants on the borderline between shrubs and trees. Ball: In transplanting work it is the mass of earth containing the roots of a plant, and it is transplanted with the plant to its new location. Ball-and-Burlap : The process of covering a ball of earth, containing the roots of a plant, with burlap or other bagging so that the plant may be safely transported a considerable distance without losing the earth from about its roots. Bedding Plants: Herbaceous plants selected for the purpose of producing a solid ground cover of flowers or foliage as a part of a definite design in a refined garden or lawn development. Bell-glass: A bell-shaped glass used to cover small plants growing in the open, as a protection from wind and rain and frequent temperature changes. GLOSSARY 357 Biennials: Plants which require two years to produce ripened seed. They form buds at the crown of the root at the end of the first season. The next season they bear ripened seed, and the plants die. Blight: A diseased condition caused by a parasitic fungus. Bog Garden: A garden composed largely of bog-loving plants. A garden on a rela- tively low area consisting of a continuously wet, peaty soil, but not containing stagnant water. Budding: The insertion of a bud from one plant (together with some live sur- rounding tissue) beneath the bark'of another plant so that the cambium layers join and grow together. Bulb: A subterranean leaf-bud consisting usually of several fleshy scales. Calcium Oxide: A compound resulting from the burning of limestone containing, when pure, 40 parts of calcium and 16 parts of oxygen by weight. It is also known as fresh burned or quicklime. Callus: The new tissue which forms over a wound as over the end of a cutting; a protective measure provided in nature; but not always an indication that the cutting will produce roots. Cambium, or cambium layer: The soft, very thin tissue lying between the bark and the woody tissue. This is the tissue from which new wood originates and is the only truly live portion of the stem of a plant. Plant food rises from roots to leaves through the cells on the inner half of the cambium layer and returns from the leaves downward as available plant food through cells on the outer half of the cambium layer. Canker: An area attacked by a parasitic fungus. Carpet bedding: A design of plants which form a close mat on the surface of the ground and respond to severe cutting back, as distinguished from ground- cover plants which may stand several inches above the ground. 358 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Clay: Earthy material (occurring in nature), whose chief property is plasticity when wet. The size of particles varies from 1-5000 to 1-25000 of an inch in diameter. Bakes and cracks freely when dried out. Clay Loam: A loam soil containing a predominance of clay. Clump: A cluster of roots or bulbs or tubers capable of being divided into separate plants or of producing one large mass of plants resembling a single plant. Collected Stock: Plants which have been taken from their native habitat and shipped direct from the collecting ground to the new location. These require more care and are subject to greater loss than nursery-grown stock. Cold Frame: An unheated, outdoor, covered plant house, generally covered with glazed sash; but sometimes prepared paper or cloth is used. No ma- nure is used in the soil at bottom of a cold frame. Cold frames are most frequently used as a transition space in the hardening-off process. Compost: A soil made by mixing loam with decaying organic compounds and some- times inorganic fertilizers, allowing nitrification and oxidation to proceed; but preventing plant growth until a very rich soil is produced. Congested: A term applied in planting to a situation having impure air or restricted feeding area for roots, or both. Conifer: A plant which bears its seeds in a cone. With the exception of the ginkgo, the larches, and the bald cypress practically all conifers are evergreen needle-bearing plants, as the pine, spruce, and fir. (See Evergreen.) Cover Crop: A herbaceous crop sown to cover the ground temporarily and thus protect it from atmospheric and water action; generally plowed under for its fertilizing value. GLOSSARY 359 Creeping Plants: Those plants whose stems run along either on or under the ground and root at intervals. Crevice Plants: Those plants with tenacious root systems adapted for use in the narrow and congested soil areas between flagstones in a walk or between stones in a dry wall. Cross Fertilization: The conveyance of pollen from one flower to another. Crown, of bulbs or other herbaceous plants: The persistent portion of the stem which bears the buds which form the next stem. Cuttings: Detached leaf buds or portions of branches which are capable under favourable circumstances of forming new plants when placed in a moist, warm soil. Deciduous: Plants that drop their leaves each fall and produce a complete new set of leaves each spring. Dehorn: To remove a portion of the top of a plant, leaving only short portions of the main branches. Design Bedding: A design of herbaceous plants used for the purpose of producing a definite effect from their flowers and not their foliage, and allowed to continue their normal growth without being cut back. Dibble: A pointed implement of wood or metal used to make holes in the ground, especially for plants, seeds, or bulbs. Dividing: The propagation of plants by separating the roots; more especially the dividing of bulbous and tuberous plants into several plants. Dormant: A resting condition of plants when growth is not active and the flow of sap is stopped. 360 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Double Flowers: Commonly the result of the substitution of brightly coloured petals for stamens or pistils. A perfect double flower has no stamens or pistils, hence is sterile and the plant must be propagated by cuttings. Drainage for plants: The carrying away of excess water from the soil in which plants are placed. This drainage promotes a deep root system, which aids the plant in surviving periods of drought; it also prevents a soil from becoming water-soaked and "drowning" the root system, especially of newly transplanted stock. Dry Wall: A wall constructed of individual stones with loam filling the crevices between them. Such a wall may be used either as a retaining wall to support an embankment of earth or against an earth slope to pre- vent unnecessary erosion. Ericaceous: A family of plants which require for their normal growth an acid soil (a soil free from lime or magnesium). Establish: The act of transplanting any plant to a new location and causing root growth which makes the plant as capable in its new location as in its old location, of continuing normal growth. Evergreen: Plants with persistent leaves. These plants drop but a small portion of the old leaves each year, and may be conifers, broad-leaved ever- greens, or opposite-leaved evergreens. Excurrent: Having a main stem extending up through the top of the plant. Fertilizer: Plant food, either directly available, or which upon nitrification will be available for use by the plant. Many fertilizers (such as sheep manure and dried blood) contain plant food in an immediately soluble form for plant requirements or in a form (such as bone meal and lime rock) which does not become available until after a period of chemical reaction. GLOSSARY 361 Field -grown Stock: Nursery-grown stock which is grown in the field, as distinguished from plants grown in pots, in cold frames, or under other especially favour- able and artificial conditions, which tend to make better looking specimens, but usually less hardy plants. Thus, field-grown plants are often more desirable, even though not nearly as good looking specimens. Fillers: Short-lived or rapidly growing plants temporarily planted between permanent plants as in orchards or in mass plantings. Fire blight: A bacterial disease. Flat: A shallow box, averaging in depth from three to four inches, to receive soil in which to plant seeds, or to start cuttings. Flowering on new wood: A term used in referring to plants which bear flowers on wood grown that same season. Hence they are mostly late-summer and fall- flowering plants and should be pruned in late winter or early spring be- fore growth begins. Flowering on old wood: A term used in referring to plants which bear flowers on wood formed the previous year, hence mostly spring-flowering plants. They should always be pruned immediately after the period of bloom is completed. (Never prune in early spring.) Force: v. To stimulate growth by artificial means such as heat, light, and fertilizers. Usually adopted for the purpose of obtaining fruits or flowers of unusual size or quantity either in season or out of season. Forcing: The acceleration of growth by gradually increasing temperature, water supply, and quickly available plant food such as sodium nitrate. Frame: See Cold frame or Hot-bed. Fresh-burned Lime: See calcium oxide. 362 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Friable: Easily crumbled, mellow, allowing free and unobstructed root develop- ment. A term used in describing a condition of soil. Frozen Ball: A solidly frozen ball of earth containing a major part of the root sys- tem of a plant (usually a tree) which is being transplanted. Ball of earth must be frozen sufficiently solid so that it will not split during normal transplanting operations. Fungus: A flowerless plant not containing chlorophyll and generally parasitic upon another living plant. Furrow: A shallow trench made by or as by a plow. Gall: An abnormal swelling or excrescence caused by gall flies. Gas Lime: Is a mixture of slaked lime or calcium hydrate, and carbonate of lime, together with sulphites and sulphides of lime. These last are injurious to young plant life until they have been exposed to the air for some time. Gas lime usually contains 40 per cent, of calcium oxide and sometimes a small percentage of nitrogen. Girdle: n. An incision or several incisions which sever the cambium layer of a woody plant to the woody tissue and for the whole circumference of the stem. It may be a circular cut, a spiral cut, or may consist of sev- eral cuts more or less widely separated, but whose horizontal projection would form a closed circle, v. To kill a tree by girdling it. Ground Cover: Small plants or vines, usually growing not more than a foot high, which will spread out and conceal the surface of the ground from view. Grubbing: Clipping and digging out roots, stumps, etc. Turning over and breaking up the sod with a grub hoe or mattock. Guying Trees: Placing wires or stays on trees or portions of trees to prevent them being blown over or broken by the wind ; more especially the placing GLOSSARY 363 of three or more guys on trees recently transplanted to hold them firmly in place until an adequate root system has been established, and to prevent swaying of the trees and loosening of root system. Hammock Land: Land, mostly in the southern part of Florida, covered with luxuriant growth of trees (hardwoods, or cabbage palms and palmettos). The soil is rich in fertilizer value. Harden-off: To so care for plants previously grown in a greenhouse that they will be able to withstand normal outdoor exposures. It is customary to move such plants from the greenhouse to cold frames. Heave-out: The partial lifting of plants out of the soil by frost action. This is apt to occur when ground previously deeply frozen and thawed out on top is again frozen. The layer of frozen soil beneath, which has not yet thawed out, forms an unyielding barrier and the expansion of the soil in freezing is then wholly upward. The stresses thus caused are enormous and plants are lifted sometimes almost wholly out of the ground. Hedge: A row composed of living plants usually in a straight line and planted closely to each other (See Plate XV, Page 95). Hedgerow: A hedge or fence of bushes or shrubs either in the form of a definite hedge or of an irregular border-planting, of varying width and often- times varying types of plants. Heeling-in: Placing plants with roots covered with soil pressed down with the heel or toe to preserve them in a dormant condition for short periods until they can be permanently planted. Usually a deep furrow is dug, the roots placed close together in the furrow, with stems in a slanting posi- tion, and roots then covered with soil. The soil used in this covering is taken from the furrow of the next row (See Plate VI, Page 34). Herb: A plant with no persistent stem above ground. Horticultural Variety: Said of certain varieties of plants developed because of some desirable characteristic. They are not necessarily hybrids, but usually are arti- 364 . THE COMPLETE GARDEN ficially hybridized, then propagated by grafts, buds, cuttings, etc., to preserve in the new plant the desirable characteristics of the parent, which might be lost if grown from seed. Host Plant: A living plant attacked by a parasitic fungus or supporting a parasitic plant. Hotbed: A bed of earth enclosed in a glass-covered frame and heated by means of fermenting manure placed well below the surface of the soil in the hotbed. Humus: Vegetable mould or partly decayed organic matter in the soil. Hybrid: A cross between two species of the same genus or two varieties of the same species. Hybrid Tea: A section of the Hybrid Perpetual group crossed back upon the tea-scented China rose. They have a lighter green and less wrinkled foliage than the pure Hybrid Perpetual. They are generally less hardy but more continuous in bloom than Hybrid Perpetuals, sometimes blooming from June until frost. Hybrid Perpetual: Or Hybrid Remontant roses have a stiff upright growth, dull wrinkled foliage, and large flat flowers generally of dark colours. They embrace generally the characteristics of the Provence, Damask, French, and Chinese groups. They mostly have only one season of bloom, in June, but sometimes give scattered bloom later on in the season. Hybridization: Cross fertilization between plants of different varieties or species and sometimes of different genera. Hydrated Lime: The compound formed by the action of water or steam on fresh burned lime. Its good physical condition makes even distribution pos- sible, and thus permits maximum effectiveness to be obtained. Indigenous : Native and original to the country in which the plant is growing. GLOSSARY 365 Land Plaster: Is a sulphate of calcium compound and its tendency is to make a soil sour. It should not be considered as a means of correcting soil acidity. Larva: The immature wingless, worm-like form in which insects (which undergo metamorphosis') have their first stage or stages before acquiring wings. Leaching: In soils; the loss, through solution in drainage water, of lime or plant food. Leader: The terminal leaf bud which will often form the main stalk of the plant; not only this bud, but also the previous year's growth is in- cluded by the term. Leaf Curl: In peaches is a condition caused by too rapid cell multiplication in re- sponse to the stimulus caused by a parasitic fungus. In snowball bushes the stimulus is caused by aphids. Leaf Mould: Decayed leaves combined with other organic matter found on a forest floor. Leggy: A term used to describe a plant (usually a shrub) on which old growth has developed in such a manner that the mass of fine branches and foli- age is on the top part of the plant, and the lower part shows a few bare stems. Usually the result of overcrowding plants or of incorrect pruning (See Plate V). Lime, or Limestone : A stone containing the element calcium which will unite with oxy- gen and carbon dioxide to form calcium carbonate or "lime," as used on the land. Line-out: As applied to planting work usually means the operation of planting small nursery stock in definite rows where such stock can make a further normal growth and be easily maintained. 366 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Litter: The soiled straw or leaves which have been used for bedding in stables, but which does not contain any considerable quantity of manure except that which it has absorbed in the form of fluids. Frequently used for mulching purposes. Loam: Earthy matter containing clay, silt, sand, and organic matter in such proportions as to make a soil adapted to supporting vegetable growth. Loam varies from a very sandy loam to a very clayey loam. Usually called topsoil. (See topsoil 6.) Loam, sandy: Loamy soil which contains a predominance of sand. Lump Lime: Burned limestone not evenly slaked so as to become finely divided. Magnesian Lime: A term describing a lime or limestone containing both magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate. Magnesium: An element, usually occurring as magnesium carbonate, which is a compound useful in correcting soil acidity. Manure: Any material, either organic or inorganic, containing a superabundance of plant food or material which upon decomposition or nitrification becomes available plant food. Marl: An earthy, crumbly deposit consisting chiefly of clay and calcium car- bonate much used as a substitute for land lime. "Green sand" marl may be acid, but good chalk marl is valuable for neutralizing acids. Mildew: A diseased condition caused by the downy mildew fungus. Muck: Black swamp earth which varies widely in available plant food, very similar to peat except that water is not constantly present during the process of decay; hence the nitrifying bacteria are present and the material is better suited for immediate use as plant food. It is in aD intermediate stage between leaf mould and peat. PLATE LX. There is always an opportunity on every large estate for the naturalizing of bulbs. Poet's narcissus is quite happy in a wild garden or field environment. (See page 270, group XXXVI-B) PLATE LXI. Throughout the Southern States the creeping fig is one of the most desirable vines for growth on masonry walls. It develops interesting foliage of a fine texture and is a vigorous grower and compares favourably with the Lowe's Boston ivy, so successfully used in the Northern States. (See page 303, group XLIII-C-b) GLOSSARY 367 Mulch: A surface covering about the base of plants to prevent or retard evapo- ration of moisture from the soil, and prevent sudden freezing and thawing in the soil. Dead leaves, straw, manure, etc., are commonly used. Naturalize: To adapt and to cause to grow, without artificial care, in a woodland or field environment. This does not imply reproduction of its kind in the new location. Nitrification: The process resulting in the formation of nitrates in the soil. Certain bacteria known as "nitrifying bacteria" are the cause of this change of nitrogen and nitrogen compounds into nitrates. It is thus the oxida- tion of nitrogen caused by bacteria in the soil. Nitrification cannot proceed except in a moist, warm soil which is well aerated. It is checked entirely when the soil temperature is lower than 40 F. and also when the soil becomes water logged or saturated, and proceeds rapidly when the temperature reaches 75 Fahr. and when only 40 to 50 per cent, of the water necessary to cause saturation is present. Nursery: A place for growing plants out-of-doors, usually under intensive culti- vation. Nursery-grown Stock: Plants which have been grown at least one full year in a nursery, under the supervision of competent gardeners or nurserymen so as to pro- duce a number of even-sized superior plants for transplanting. Open Alice: A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted trees or tall shrubs (of a height not less than twice the width between rows), and so maintained that both sides present a continuous vertical wall of close-growing foliage. Opening-up: In discussions on pruning this term means the cutting out of sufficient growth to admit the sunshine to the centre of the plant or to the area about a group of plants. Organic Manure: Manure consisting largely of decaying matter of animal or plant origin as distinguished from mineral manures which are inorganic. 368 THE COMPLETE GARDEN Parasitic Plants: Plants growing on or deriving nourishment from other plants; e. g., mistletoe. Paring and burning: This operation consists of paring off the sod containing foul or objec- tionable growth to a depth of about two inches and after allowing it to dry burning it and spreading the ash over the ground. Peat: Decayed organic matter of vegetable origin naturally deposited under still water, hence found in the form of bogs. As it has been deposited under water and is usually found still under water, nitrifying bacteria are not present and peat is unavailable as plant food until mixed with soil in which nitrifying bacteria are present. Peat varies in colour from a pale brown or yellowish brown to almost black and in texture varies from a fibrous substance, containing particles easily recognized as plant remains, to a compact mass of fine particles which when still wet resemble clay except in colour. Perennial: Plants growing year after year. Properly includes trees and shrubs; but in practice the term is limited to those plants which have no per- sistent stem above ground, but do nevertheless grow year after year, merely dying back to a crown bud each fall and sending out new stems each spring. Perennial herb is the proper term to express this meaning. Piedmont: A region lying at the base of a mountain range. Pleached Alice: A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted trees or shrubs, so maintained that the branches of the continuous walls of close-growing foliage arch and interweave across the top of the way at a height of not less than seven or eight feet. Pocket-planting : The planting of trees and shrubs in a pocket of fertile soil formed by digging a large hole in a more or less unfertile soil and refilling with fertile soil; frequently adopted to save expense of preparing beds and also to save unnecessary washing of an area of loose soil on slopes. Pollard: v. To remove the crown of a tree, usually at a point below the lowest branches, for the purpose of promoting a dense head of foliage or for re- juvenating the tree. GLOSSARY 369 Preparation, of planting beds: This process normally includes plowing, spading, or grubbing, pulveriz- ing the soil, applying manure and mixing with soil, and getting the beds into first-class condition to receive the plants. In clay soils it also in- cludes removing clay to proper depth, and replacing with fertile topsoil. Propagation: To cause to multiply either by reproduction from seed or from cuttings. Puddling: The dipping of the roots of plants into a mixture of clayey soil and water having the consistency of molasses, in order to get close contact between root hairs and the soil. This protects the root hairs from injury in transportation, retards drying out of the roots, and pro- motes the acquiring of a speedy contact between roots and the soil into which the roots are placed. Quicklime: Unslaked lime. In planting, any lime not wholly slaked is called quicklime. See calcium oxide. Refined Lawns, Gardens, etc. Said of a studied landscape arrangement which shows neatness and careful maintenance as contrasted to a naturalistic arrangement which permits each plant to grow in unrestrained competition with the sur- rounding plants. Renovate: To systematically prune old plants, either trees or shrubs, but more especially shrubs, so that at the end of two or three years the plant consists almost entirely of new wood grown within that period. This may also mean to give new life to old plants by cultivating and ferti- lizing the soil and by systematic pruning of the plant itself. Retardation: The artificial application of cold temperatures or other conditions whereby the resting period is prolonged. Reversion: A tendency to revert to parental or ancestral characteristics. Root-bound 1 : A term used in speaking of any plant whose root system cannot develop further because confined to a limited area. Thus, when the 370 THE COMPLETE GARDEN root system of a potted plant has filled the pot the plant is root-bound, or when the root system of stock planted in pockets has filled the pocket and the surrounding soil is so compact that the roots cannot penetrate it, the plant becomes root-bound. Root Prune: To prune or cut the roots of a plant in order to check excessive growth of the woody tops; often done to secure a compact root system consist- ing of a mass of fine roots confined to a limited area in order to permit of the plant being transplanted with a greater degree of certainty that the plant will continue to live (See Plate VI, Page 34). Some- times done merely to permit of the plant being more easily fed and decrease the probability of the plant food being lost in the greater area of soil, or taken up by plants for which it is not intended. Root Stock: The subterranean runner or partially subterranean runner which is a part of the root system (not a part of the stem) which roots at inter- vals and sends up stems similar to a stolon. It is a part of the true root system, while a stolon is part of the stem. Rotted Manure: Organic manure in which oxidation is so nearly completed that no appreciable amount of heat is given off and much of the material is available as plant food. Runner: A slender stolon. (See Root Stock). Rust: A diseased condition caused by a rust fungus. Sanctuary: A place of refuge in which birds or animals may continue their normal habits without fear of being molested. Scald: A diseased condition of the bark of a woody plant caused either by the action of frost in bursting the cells or by excessive drying due to sun or wind action. Scion: Any bud or shoot or other portion of the stem of a plant capable of propagation cut off and prepared for grafting. GLOSSARY 371 Scraping tree trunks: The process of scraping off the loose bark from the trunk of a tree. The chief reason is to remove the hiding places of injurious insects. Seepage: The process of percolation, as ground water through the soil. Shothole: A small local centre of attack caused by parasitic fungi. Shrub: A woody perennial as distinguished from a tree mainly by its low stature and having several primary stalks arising at or near the ground. Slaked Lime: Is fresh burnt lime reduced to a fine condition by the addition of water. Smut: A diseased condition caused by a smut fungus. Sod: That stratum of earth which is filled with the roots of grass, herbs, etc. Sour Soil: An acid soil; a term generally applied to a soil which is not only aci