\0'\
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 V.:: 
 
 1 
 
 Ib^
 
 THE 
 
 RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 FROM 
 
 CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD; 
 
 CONTAINING A 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE AND HISTORICAL ACCOUNT 
 
 OF ALL OBJECTS OP INTEREST THAT PKESEKT THEMSELVES 
 ON THIS 
 
 BEAUTIFULLY PICTURESQUE LINE: 
 
 ESPECIALLY 
 
 THE MONSTER TUBULAR BRIDGES 
 
 ACROSS THE 
 
 RIVER CONWAY AND THE MENAI STRAITS, 
 
 AND THE HERCULEAN 
 
 HARBOUR OF REFUGE AT HOLYHEAD. 
 
 TO WHICH IS ADDED, 
 
 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE TO 
 
 DUBLIN AND ITS ENVIEONS. 
 
 BY EDWARD PARRY, 
 
 Author of the Cambrian MiiTor, &c. 
 
 SEVENTH THOUSAND. 
 
 CHESTER: 
 THOMAS CATHERALL, EASTGATE ROW.
 
 PREFACE "DA 
 
 ^ - i^O 
 
 TO THE FIRST EDITION. 
 
 ?^H 
 
 " He who loves to study nature in her own domain, in all her 
 magnificence, in all her sweetness, and in all her glory, may find 
 in Wales enough, and far more than enough, to gratify and im- 
 prove his taste."— Rev. J. H. Bransby. 
 
 In compiling the following " Companion," the principal aim 
 of the Writer has been to give a vrell-digested, condensed, and 
 faithful description of the leading features of interest on the 
 borders of Cambria, presented in a form at once portable and 
 convenient to the Stranger, who leaves the busy scenes of life, 
 and the constant care of business, for a few days' ramble among 
 the hills and valleys of the Principality. He has endeavoured 
 to arrange his information so that every object worthy of notice 
 may easily be referred to as the train passes along ; and, not- 
 withstanding the amazing rapidity of transit, the traveller may, 
 by loqking to the work a little before he arrives at a particular 
 place, easily obtain the desired view. Although the Editor has 
 been obliged to curtail his antiquarian and historical details, 
 enough, however, he hopes, has been given to inform the gene- 
 ral reader, that the line of country which he has travelled 
 through has been the scene of many important historical events. 
 The cities, towns, and villages, within a reasonable distance of 
 the line have been carefully described ; the ancient castles, the 
 mansions of the nobility, as well as all objects of interest seen 
 from the line, have been faithfully pourtrayed ; and the whole 
 interspersed with interesting historical and biographical notices. 
 If any ei-rors have crept in, or any requisite information has 
 been omitted, the Editor will feel obliged by such being pointed 
 out, and they shall be attended to in the next edition. 
 
 EDWARD PARRY. 
 
 Bridge-street, Chester, 
 July 15, 1848. 
 
 S*?f 
 
 SlISLISH LOCAL
 
 PREFACE 
 
 TO THE SECOND EDITION, 
 
 The very favourable mauner which the first Edition of this 
 Work was reviewed by the Press, and received by a discerning 
 Public, together with the unexampled sale of several thousand 
 copies in the course of a few months, are of themselves a suffi- 
 cient guarantee of its utility and worth ; and for such an 
 unequivocal expression of public opinion, the Author desires to 
 tender his grateful acknowledgments. He scarcely need say, 
 that, engaged in endeavouring to pourtray the beauties of his 
 native country, (a pursuit so congenial to his feelings,) the 
 labour has been that of love ; consequently, no expense or 
 trouble has been spared to make the present Edition in every 
 respect wortliy of a still greater patronage than the former 
 one. 
 
 To add to the interest of this Edition, and to accommodate 
 those parties who may be desirous of crossing the Channel to 
 see the beauties of the " Emerald Isle,'' a short account of the 
 thriving watering town of Kingstown, and the attractive City 
 of Dublin, has been added, which it is to be hoped will be con- 
 sidered a desideratum and generally appreciated. 
 
 Bridge-street, Chester, 
 if ay \st, 1849.
 
 A RAILWAY COMPANION, &c. 
 
 A Narrative of the Early ajsd Parlia^ientary His- 
 tory OF the Project, its Future Prospects, &c. 
 
 For the last thirty or forty years the government of this 
 country have been anxious to establish the most direct, safe, and 
 expeditious mode of communication between this and the sister 
 country: witness the outlay expended in making the great 
 parliamentary road from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, the Conway 
 and Menai suspension bridges, and the harbour at Holyhead. 
 For the last ten or twelve years their attention has been di ■ 
 rected to the accomplishment of this desirable object, by means 
 of railway conveyance and the establishment of a good packet 
 station : but in consequence of the difficulty arising from three 
 competing lines, and three distinct places of embarkation, each 
 of which was advocated with considerable talent and weight 
 of influence, some years of delay occurred before the govern- 
 ment could arrive at a satisfactory conclusion. In order to 
 satisfy the public mind and set the matter at rest, the govern- 
 ment appointed several commissions, consisting of some of the 
 most eminent naval and civil engineers, to survey the rival 
 lines, as well as the rival ports of Holyhead, Portdynllaen, and 
 Ormeshead, and to report on the merits and capabilities of 
 each, with a view of selecting the best line and terminus. In 
 the mean time, the advocates of each scheme were most active 
 in forwarding their respective projects. In 1836, the Saint 
 George's Harbour and Eailway Company issued their prospec- 
 tus, and projected a line from Chester to the Ormeshead. In 
 1837, the Irish Railway Commission authorized Mr. Vignolles 
 to survey a line from Portdynllaen to Shrewsbury, which was 
 recommended to the government. In 1838 the Chester and 
 Crewe Eailway Company engaged Mr. George Stephenson to 
 survey a line from Chester to Holyhead, as a continuation of 
 their line. It is true that at that time the Conway Iliver and
 
 6 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 the Menai Straits were considered as great drawbacks against 
 the Chester and Holyhead railway and its terminus. But 
 when its favourable position was taken into account, as being 
 situated exactly opposite Dublin, midway between Liverpool 
 and Dublin, between Milford Haven and Greenock, particularly 
 being the shortest passage across the Channel, and being re- 
 ported as the best place on the coast for embarkation — it added 
 considerable weight in its favour. To these considerations, 
 it was urged the great probability of the line being made 
 available for conveying the Irish mails, government stores, 
 troops, and ammunition, as well as the great bulk of the trade 
 and traffic of not only England, Wales, and Ireland, but even- 
 tually a large portion of the West India and American trade. 
 It was thus evident, that if adopted, it would become the 
 imperial line, not only between towns, cities, and counties, but 
 between principalities, continents, and kingdoms. 
 
 These suggestions were made by a very humble individual 
 to the able and active chairman of the Chester and Crewe 
 Eailway Company, John Uniacke, Esq., for two successive 
 years Mayor of Chester, who brought the matter before the 
 directors of that spirited company. These gentlemen entered 
 at once into the project; and in the spring of 1839 they again 
 engaged the celebrated G. Stephenson, Esq. to survey both the 
 rival lines, Holyhead and Portdynllaen, and report on the res- 
 pective merits of each, which he did in his usual straightfor- 
 ward and candid manner. 
 
 " The line from Chester to Holyhead," says Mr. Stephenson, 
 " is about 82 miles; and it is my opinion, that 60 or 70 miles 
 of this distance will deviate very little from a level line, pos- 
 sesses good inclinations, is free from difficulties, will be a cheap 
 line, and easily made. On the other hand," he says, "that 
 the line from Portdynllaen to Shrewsbury is perfectly imprac- 
 ticable in the general acceptation of the term as regards rail- 
 ways." 
 
 On the favourable result of Mr. Stephenson's second report, 
 Mr. Uniacke and his friends were again in the field in promot- 
 ing the interest of their former project; and early in 1839 
 they succeeded in forming a company, called 
 
 The Great Holyhead Eailway Company. 
 The provisional committee consisted of the following gentle- 
 men : — Sir K. Bulkeley, Bart. M.P. Chairman ; John Uniacke
 
 FROM CHESTEK TO HOLYHEAD. 7 
 
 Esq. Mayor of Chester, vice-chaii'man. The Hon. William 0. 
 Stanley, M.P. a number of the most influential landed pro- 
 prietors on the line, and the directors of the Chester and Crewe 
 Railway Company, constituted the remainder. The veteran 
 father of railways, G. Stephenson, Esq. was appointed engi- 
 neer-in-chief; H. Kelsall, Esq. Chester, and Owen Owen, Esq. 
 Holyhead, sohcitors; Capt. Evans, Holyhead, R. L. Jones, and 
 Edward Pan*y, Chester, were appointed joint secretaries. 
 Prospectuses were issued, several public meetings were again 
 held in London, Dublin, &c. through the instrumentality of the 
 worthy vice-chairman, who was most active in advocating the 
 merits of the line. 
 
 The country at this time (1839) was mad with railway 
 speculations, so much so, that the government, to prevent mis- 
 chief, were obliged to strengthen their hands, by adding to the 
 standing orders of the house a rule making it imperative that 
 10 per cent, must be paid on the amount of the whole capital 
 required to make any railway, before the house could entertain 
 the subject. The proposed capital of this company was two 
 millions ; consequently, a large amount was required. In order 
 to do away with this difliculty, and to place the merits of the 
 proposed railway fairly before the Irish members and the pub- 
 lic, previous to Mr. O'Connell bringing forward his motion 
 respecting the communication between London and Dublin, a 
 very important 
 
 Public Meeting 
 
 was convened at the Thatched House Tavern, London, on thes 
 4th of May, 1839, for the purpose of examining the respective 
 merits of the two competing lines. The following gentlemen 
 wei*e present: — Sir Willm. Somerville, Bart. M.P. Mr. Lefroy, 
 M.P. Hon. W. 0. Stanley, M.P. Mr. Grattan, M.P. Mr. Evans, 
 M.P. Mr. Reddington, M.P. Sir Denham Norroys, Bart. M.P. 
 Mr. O'Brien, M.P. Mr. Power, M.P. Mr. Wilbraham, M.P. 
 Captain Dundas, M.P. Mr. Jephson, M.P. Mr. G. Stephenson, 
 CE. ; the deputation from Chester, consisting of Mr. Uniacke, 
 Mr. E. Parry, Mr. Gladstone, Mr. PaUu, &c. &c. The Hon. 
 W. 0. Stanley, M.P. was unanimously called to the chair, and 
 with his usual ability opened the pi-oceedings. Most of the 
 members of parliament took a part in examining the merits of 
 both lines, as the plans were laid before them the whole length 
 of the room by Mr. Stephenson.
 
 8 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 Sir W. Somerville, M.P. said he had long given his attention 
 
 to this matter, and was convinced that the Holyhead line was 
 the only practical one. Mr. O'Brien, M.P. said he had long 
 been of opinion that Holyhead was the best route for effecting 
 a railway communication with Ireland, and should be happy to 
 lend the project any sanction which his name might possess. 
 Sir D. Norroys, M.P. Mr. Grattan, INI.P. Mr. Evans, M.P. and 
 others, intimated their willingness to forward the Holyhead 
 project, as the best that could be adopted. 
 
 The Chairman said, that as government had allowed the 
 Irish Railway Commissioners to publish sections of a rival 
 line from Portdynllaen to Wolverhampton, and to bring it 
 before the public as if recommended by them, the object of 
 those who had called the present meeting was, in the first 
 place, to endeavour to convince the government and the public, 
 that the Holyhead line was preferable to that laid down by the 
 commissioners. 
 
 Most of the members present took a lively interest in the 
 project, and expressed their approbation of the line. The 
 meeting ended by adopting the following resolutions, which 
 were carried unanimously : — 
 
 " That in the opinion of this meeting, it is of the utmost 
 national importance that the shortest possible communication 
 should be established between London and Dublin. 
 
 " That, after examining the sections of both the rival lines 
 of Holyhead and Portdynllaen, and hearing the report of Mr. 
 Stephenson, this meeting is convinced that the great Holyhead 
 line is the most practicable, expeditious, and least expensive 
 line that can be constructed for that purpose. 
 
 " That it is highly expedient that a deputation of gentlemen, 
 wishing to forward this great national object, should wait upon 
 the Chancellor of the Exchequer, accompanied by Mr. 
 Stephenson, that he may have an opportunity of laying before 
 him his section s report, and opinions generally on the projected 
 railway; and that such deputation is hereby requested to urge 
 upon the government the propriety of doing away with the 
 standing orders, and giving the undertaking their support and 
 sanction." 
 
 The Chairman said, that before the meeting separated, he 
 hoped the gentlemen present would express their opinion of 
 the great exertions used in this matter by Mr. Uniacke, the 
 mayor of Chester, and the joint secretax'ies of this company. —
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 9 
 
 (Hear, hear.) These gentlemen had used extraordinaiy efforts 
 in bringing the merits of the hne before the pubHc, and had 
 gone to considerable expense in securing the services of Mr. 
 Stephenson and others. 
 
 Shortly afterwards Rear- Admiral Sir James A. Gordon and 
 Captain Beechey were appointed by government to survey 
 the relative capabilities of the ports of Holyhead, Ormes Bay, 
 and Portdynllaen, with a view of selecting the best place for a 
 packet station. These gentlemen made their report, which 
 was ordered to be printed by the House of Commons on the 
 15th of April, 1840. 
 
 The following is an extract. — To the lord commissioners of 
 the admiralty. — " We have used all diligence in enquiring into 
 all matters connected with the different ports in Wales, and 
 from what we have seen, it is our decided opinion that, whether 
 as regards the distance, the passage, the convenience of a 
 station, or the expense of constructing works, Holyhead is the 
 most fit and eligible point for the departure and arrival of the 
 packets on the eastern side of the channel." 
 
 In 1843, Captain Sir Geo. Back and Captain Fair, R.N. 
 were instructed by the Lords of the Admiralty to survey the 
 different ports, relative to the best place as a terminus for 
 communicating with Dublin. — " The Bay of Holyhead seems 
 formed by nature as a place for shelter; and if there be any 
 thing wanting to make it complete, the defect may be easily 
 supplied. It is, therefore, our unqualified opinion that both 
 as to capability and position, Holyhead is most unquestionably 
 the most eligible harbour on the coast, as a port of communi- 
 cation with Dublin."— Printed by order of the house, February 
 16, 1844. 
 
 The following is an extract from Sir Frederick Smith, Lieut.- 
 col. royal engineers, and Professor Barlow's report to the Lords 
 of the Treasury, in February, 1843. — " Holyhead being se- 
 lected as the best port for the Dublin packets, we are of opinion 
 that the best line of railway for the communication between 
 London and Dublin, is that proposed by Mr. George Stephenson, 
 viz. — by Chester and Bangor to Holyhead." 
 
 Matters x^msanQ^'m statu quo for some time, until the direc- 
 tors of the Great Western Railway turned their attention to 
 the extension of their line to South Wales, and the establish- 
 ment of a communication with Ireland from that quarter. 
 This roused the directors of the London and Birmingham and
 
 10 A RAILAVAY CO JIP ANION 
 
 the Grand Junction Companies, who were determined to have 
 a share of the Irish traffic, and by way of starting the Chester 
 and Holyhead line afresh, they agreed to take shares to the 
 amount of one million of money, being one half of the capital 
 required! The other half was subscribed by the gentlemen 
 forming the present Chester and Holyhead Eailway Company. 
 Eobert Stephenson, Esq. was appointed engineer-in-chief, and 
 Timothy Tyrrell, Esq. solicitor; subsequently he was joined 
 by Messrs, Parker, Hayes, & Co., of Lincoln's Inn. Every 
 preparation was now being made, the parliamentary notices 
 delivered, and the standing orders complied with. 
 
 In the spring of 1844, the Right Hon. Lord R. Grosvenor, 
 M.P. for Chester, and the Hon. William 0. Stanley, M.P. for 
 Anglesea, brought in the bill before parhament for the Chester 
 and Holyhead Railway Company. It was ordered to be printed, 
 and in a short tim.e the house referred it to a committee, con- 
 sisting of the following members, who commenced their inquiry 
 on the 29th of April, 1844:— 
 
 Wm. Marshall, Esq. M.P. for Carlisle, (chairman); Right 
 Hon. Lord Robert Grosvenor, M.P. Chester; John Jervis, Esq. 
 M.P. Chester; Sir P. G. Egerton, M.P. Cheshire; John Tolle- 
 mache, Esq. M.P. Cheshire; Hon. W. 0. Stanley, M.P. Angle- 
 sea; Colonel Paget, M.P. Beaumaris; Hon. Colonel Douglas 
 Pennant, M.P. Caernarvonshire; Wm. B. Hughes, Esq. M.P. 
 Caernarvon; Hon. W. Bagot, M.P. Denbighshire; Townshend 
 Mainwaring, Esq. M.P. Denbigh; Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart. 
 M.P. Flint; H. Compton, Esq. M.P. South Herts; Lord John 
 Manners, M.P. Newark; Sir Ralph Lopez, M.P. Westbury; E. 
 B. Dennis, Esq. M.P. west riding of York; Wm. Ormesby Gore, 
 Esq. M.P. North Salop; to whom was added on the part of 
 government. Sir G. Clerk, INI.P. Stamford. 
 
 The following gentlemen were examined before the commit- 
 tee: — R. Stephenson, Esq., G. W. Buck, Esq., A. Ross, Esq. 
 &c. on the engineering merits; and Mr. G. King, London, Mr. 
 T. Griffith, Birkenhead, Mr. Warren, Liverpool, Mr. W. Jen- 
 kins and Mr. E. Parry, Chester, gave evidence, and satisfacto- 
 rily proved the traffic of the line. 
 
 After five days' sitting, the committee presented the follow- 
 ing report to parliament : — 
 
 May 6th, 1844. — Mr. IMarshall reported from the committee 
 on the Chester and Holyhead Railway Bill, and stated that 
 they had examined the several matters required by the stand-
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 11 
 
 in^ orders to be inquired into by the committees on railway 
 bills. That the insufficiency of the present means of convey- 
 ance for agricultural, commercial, manufacturing, and other 
 purposes, between Chester and Holyhead, was satisfactorily 
 proved. That the present amount of traffic by land and water, 
 the number of passengers, and the weight and description of 
 goods expected on the proposed railway, were sufficiently proved. 
 
 The bill in a short time passed the house of Lords, and 
 received the royal assent. 
 
 The directors immediately afterwards put themselves in 
 communication with the government relative to the coiiveyance 
 of the mails, &c. who were anxious to accommodate the Irish 
 population as much as possible, by expediting the mode of 
 communication: and being satisfied, from the reports of the 
 scientific gentlemen employed by them, that Holyhead was the 
 best place for a packet station and asylum harbour. 
 
 The necessaiy arrangements were eventually made between 
 the company and the government, to raise the required sum. 
 The former undertook to advance £200,000, and the latter 
 £500,000. The works were immediately commenced. 
 
 The first commencement of making the railway, took place 
 on St. David's day, 1845; and the first sod cut, and the first 
 shot fired, were at the Conway tunnel. In the course of that 
 year, the works were carried on with considerable spirit, si- 
 multaneously throughout the line. Great credit is due to the 
 various contractors, — Messrs. Jackson & Co., Messrs. Betts & 
 Co., Messrs. McKenzie & Co., Messrs. Evans & Co., &c. &c. for 
 the very efficient and workmanlike manner in which they have 
 finished their gigantic undertakings. 
 
 The writer having for the last ten years identified himself 
 with the Chester and Holyhead Eailway Project and Harbour, 
 versus Portdynllaen, &c. — exerted himself in various ways in 
 advocating its merits as an imperial line, and taken an active part 
 in the first formation of the former company, as well as having 
 assisted, to the best of his humble abilities, the present company 
 while obtaining their act ■ndth some material parliamentary 
 evidence, — he has naturally looked forward with considerable 
 interest and anxiety for the completion of this national under- 
 taking ; in fact, this all-important line, and its future prospects, 
 utility and greatness, has for years past occupied his last 
 thoughts in retiring to rest, and his first deliberations in the 
 morning. He looked forward with confidence for the further
 
 12 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 development of this national undertaking and the increase of 
 the merchandise, not only between England and Ireland, 
 but between Great Britain and all trading countries in the 
 western hemisphere. 
 
 We are in a position to state from undeniable proofs, that if 
 properly managed, the receipts might be very considerably 
 increased. But this cannot be done by the employment of 
 parties ignorant alike of the language of the people, and the 
 trade of the country, even in the locality of the stations. The 
 resources of the trade of the principality ought to be more 
 fully developed, and the result would be much more satisfactory 
 to the shareholders. The traffic of this line, large as it may 
 be made to be, will not be confined to England, Ireland, 
 and Wales, but will have a good portion of the trade of foreign 
 countries to bear upon it. 
 
 Holyhead will be very soon looked upon as the principal key 
 to the Atlantic. The vast trading interest of America, and 
 all the countries lying westward, will, without doubt, avail 
 themselves of the facilities of this port, and its railway com- 
 munication with every part of Great Britain. This company, 
 in connection with their influential partners, the London and 
 North Western, with all their railway ramifications, will be 
 able to transmit goods and passengers to all the large towns 
 and the great manufacturing districts, including the populous 
 and important counties of Cheshire, Lancashire, Staffordshire, 
 Warwickshire, Yorkshire, and all the midland counties of 
 England. 
 
 The line was opened for general traffic as far as Bangor, on 
 the 1st of May, 1848, and shortly afterwards to Holyhead, 
 with the exception of the monster tubular bridge* across the 
 Menai Straits at the Britannia Rock. 
 
 We have no hesitation in stating that the Chester and Holy- 
 head railway is one of the best and most agreeable in the 
 kingdom, both as regards engineering skill, and smoothness of 
 motion. The scenery throughout is most enchanting. On 
 the left, nearly all the way the eye revels among hills, valleys, 
 and rocks ; and on the right is a most interesting view of the 
 ■wide expansive ocean and its concomitants. More than 200 
 sail of vessels, of various nations, are sometimes seen gliding 
 in different directions, sporting as it were on the bosom of the 
 
 * A print of this bridge has been lately published by T. Catherall, 
 Eastgate-row, Chester.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO IIOI-YHEAD. 13 
 
 vasty deep. Indeed, every part of the line, from the " Banks 
 of the Dee" to the Straits of the Menai, presents a variety of 
 interesting objects, calculated to arrest the attention of the 
 traveller, as well as to please the fancy of the most fastidious 
 observer of the beauties of nature; and the rapid alterations 
 which the scenery each minute presents, lessens the distance,' 
 making the trip in every way the most agreeable that can be 
 enjoyed. 
 
 This important railway will, in all probability, become the 
 principal highway between the metropolis of England and that 
 of Ireland. A traveller may shortly seat himself in a car- 
 riage at Euston-square, London, and be conveyed through the 
 heart of England, dash through the old city walls of Chester, 
 flit past the romantic scenery of North Wales, and so cross 
 the Menai to Holyhead, where he will find a steamer ready to 
 convey him across the Irish Sea, and to land him in about 
 twelve hours from the time he left London, at the very entrance 
 of Dublin. To accomplish which, in former years, would have 
 taken as many days ! 
 
 The Poaver of Steaih. 
 
 Who would have thought that the steam which lifts the 
 tea-kettle lid half an inch, could have been made the agent for 
 propelling carriages containing hundreds of passengers at the 
 rate of 60 or 70 miles an hour? and for driving huge vessels, 
 carrying hundreds of tons and passengers, three thousand 
 miles across the Atlantic in as many days as formerly took 
 weeks ? 
 
 A train of coaches weighing about eighty tons, and trans- 
 porting two hundred and forty passengers with their luggage, 
 has been taken from Liverpool to Birmingham, and back from 
 Birmingham to Liverpool, the trip each way taking about four 
 hours and a quarter, stoppages included. The distance between 
 these places by the railway is ninety-five miles. This double 
 journey of one hundred and ninety miles is effected by the 
 mechanical force produced in the combustion of a quarter of a 
 ton of coke, the value of which is six shillings. To carry the 
 same number of passengers daily between the same places by 
 stage coaches on a common road, would require twenty coaches 
 and an establishment of three thousand eight hundred horses, 
 with which 'the journey in each direction would be performed 
 in about twelve hours, stoppages included.
 
 14 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 The steam-engine might well be called the " wonder of 
 wonders," iind the triumph of mechanics. Propelled by this 
 power on the railroad, " man outstrips the fleetest horse." In 
 short, steam-power has now become universally useful; it is 
 made available for every purpose that can alleviate the labour, 
 add to the knowledge, or contribute to the comforts of man. It 
 aids the press in printing cheap books for the million;* by 
 which means the pence of the cottager is made to buy the 
 profound thinkings of the philosopher, — the bodily labour of a 
 week procures the mental labour of a life ! The friend of man, 
 the advocate of trade, freedom, and justice, speaks in parlia- 
 ment ; the short hand reporter notes down his words, the press 
 prints the newspapers, and steam sends the information and 
 knowledge in a few hours to every portion of England, Scotland, 
 Wales, and Ireland ! In a few days, the same is sent all over 
 the Continent, to all parts of Europe, and in as many weeks to 
 the ends of the earth ! It pumps mines, di-ains lakes, spins 
 thread, weaves linen yarn and cloth, works flour-mills, saw- 
 mills, and a hundred other mills, for the benefit of mankind. 
 
 As a contrast with the improvements of these modern days, 
 we insert the following account of the 
 
 Former mode of Travelling between Chester 
 AND Holyhead, 
 
 And the perils, dangers, and difficulties of the road. Abstract, 
 or rather transcript, of a letter from Lord Clarendon, Lord 
 Lieutenant of Ireland, in 1686, to a friend in England. (From 
 the Clarendon papers.) 
 
 " Beaumaris, Neio Year's day, 1685-6. 
 
 " Dear Sir, — We left Conway yesterday, at six in the morn- 
 ing, and pursued the method for our journey which I mentioned 
 in my last, from thence. My wife in a litter, the rest on 
 horseback, (though I confess for my own particular, I went on 
 foot,) passed over Penmaen-mawr, at the foot of which I met 
 my Lord Bulkeley's coach and servants ; but they told us they 
 had escaped very narrowly in coming over the ferry, and that 
 the wind was so very high, that it was not fit for us to attempt 
 going that way. So the coach carried us to Bangor, where we 
 
 • By the aid of steam, a Bible can now be printed at Oxford in 
 two minutes ! Only think— every word in the Old and New Tes- 
 tament within two minutes.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHE.\J). 15 
 
 ferried over into Anglesea ; and then put my wife into the lit- 
 ter again, for never was, or can come, a coach into that part of 
 the country ; and thus we came safe hither about three in the 
 afternoon; and God be praised, without any mischance to any 
 of our company ; and here we lodged at my Lord Bulkeley's, 
 who makes very much of us, and entertains us most nobly. 
 
 " I left Sir Paul Kicault* at Conway, who had a mind to 
 see what success I had in passing the mountains before he 
 would venture ; but I expect him here this day. He offered 
 two guineas to have his chariot carrried over Penmaen-mawr, 
 and the Dean of Bangor, who met me on the borders of Wales, 
 and intends to see me on board, offered him to have it done for 
 ten shillings. He brought two honest fellows to me at Con- 
 way, who undertook to carry my coach over Penmaen for 20s. 
 They proposed to take it off the wheels, and carry it by 
 strength of hands, and take the wheels afterwards. This 
 seemed feasible, and likely to be accomplished; and I therefore 
 agreed to it. But to the amazement of all the company last 
 night at supper, your oflRcer William, who is a diligent fellow, 
 came in and told us, the coach was come, and that without 
 taking it to pieces ; but by setting the horses in one trace one 
 behind another, and keeping three or four men behind, that it 
 might not slip back, they had drawn it over the hill, the car- 
 riage being on the wheels. This would not have been believed, 
 considering it was a great heavy coach, had not the coach 
 been at the instance in my Lord Bulkeley's yard. So God be 
 thanked, we have now overcome all the difficulties of our land 
 journey, without any the least ill accident. We are now ready 
 to go to Holyhead, and to embark as soon as the wind is fair, 
 but it is now in our teeth. 
 
 " I have been very inquisitive here, whence the so little ebbs 
 should proceed, now at full moon ; but my Lord Bulkeley tells 
 me, it is occasioned from the great storms which have been of 
 late, and keep the rivers from ebbing so low as they used to 
 do. My waggon, which I left at Conway, with orders to be 
 sent to Chester, thence to be embarked for Ireland, is this 
 afternoon arrived here, brought likewise over Penmaen-mawr, 
 Muth all its loading. So that it is said we have introduced a 
 
 * Sir Paul Ricault was the celebrated traveller, and author of 
 " The History of the Turks." He was secretary for Leinster ancl 
 Connaught during Lord Clarendon's Lieutenancy.
 
 16 A R^VILWAY C03IPANI0N 
 
 new way of travelling. The way I came from Bangor is about 
 as broad as the Thames at Battersea; but the boats are little 
 round sea-boats, and will hold not above three horses at a 
 time, so that we were very long in coming across the river. 
 But God be thanked, we are all safe. I beg you to own Lord 
 Bulkeley's civilities to us, which have been very great. He 
 proffereth to be a great servant to you, 
 
 " Saturday the 2nd Jan. 1686.* — A very fair morning; the 
 wind south. We are taking a coach to Holyhead, where I 
 hope to embark this evening. I wish you a happy new year. 
 God Almighty preserve you and all yours." 
 
 Former mode of Travelling between Chester 
 AND London, 
 
 by express, on his Majesty's service. — Extract from Thomas 
 Cartwright's (Bishop of Chester) Diary: — 
 
 " 1687, Nov. 29. — One of the King's messengers brought 
 me a letter to attend his majesty's ser^uce at London. On the 
 30th, Mr. Legh, the King's messenger, dined with me." 
 
 "October 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12, 1687.— I came out of 
 Chester in the stage-coach for London, with four citizens. We 
 came on Friday night to Newport. On Saturday we called on 
 Sir John Bridgman, and got to Coventry. On Sunday we 
 supped and dined with the bishop. On Monday we came to 
 Northampton, where my cousin Whalley, and all my kindred, 
 supped with me at the Swan. The next day (Tuesday) we 
 came to Dunstable, where my cousin Backwell and his lady 
 were ; and on Wednesday we came safe, blessed be God, to 
 London! I kissed the King's hand that night, and was gra- 
 ciously received by him." 
 
 * It appears from Bishop Cartwright's Diary, that Lord Claren- 
 don was only twelve months in office, for he surrendered his vice- 
 royalty to the Earl of Tyrconuel, Januarj-, 1687. The Bishop 
 states that " on the 21st of Feb. I dined at the Lady Grosvenor's 
 with Mr. Godfrey. Was sent for from hence, to meet my Lord 
 Clarendon, which I did, with my wife, son, and daughter, five 
 miles from Chester on the Sands, from whence he was conducted to 
 the Deanery with all expressions of joy. 22d — I conducted Lord 
 Clarendon through the cloisters to his seat in the church, from 
 whence he went to dine at the Castle. 23d — I waited upon my 
 Lord to the Cathedral : in the evening I supped with his lordship 
 at Sir John Ardern's. 24th— -After morning prayer 1 waited on my 
 Lord Clarendon out of Chester.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 17 
 
 Another account. — Extract from Thomas Pennant, Esq.'s 
 Journey from Chester to London, page 187: — 
 
 " In March, 1739-40, I changed my Welsh school for one 
 nearer the capital, and travelled in the Chester stage, then no 
 mean vehicle for country gentlemen. The first day, with much 
 labour, we got from Chester to Whitchurch, twenty miles ; the 
 second day to the Welsh Harp, the third to Coventry, the 
 fourth to Northampton, the fifth to Dunstable, and as a won- 
 drous eifort, on the last to Loudon, before the commencement 
 of night! The strain and labour of six horses, sometimes 
 eight, drew us through the sloughs of Meriden and other 
 places. We were constantly out two hours before day, and as 
 late at night. 
 
 " Families who travelled in their own carriages contracted 
 with Benson & Co., and were dragged up in the same number 
 of days by three sets of able horses." 
 
 Instead of six long days, the journey can now be accom- 
 plished in five short hours! 
 
 Former Mode of Travelling by Stage Coaches. 
 
 Birmingham Travelling. — 1742. 
 
 [Advertisement from Walker's Birmingham Paper, Monday, 
 AprU 12th, 1742. No. 26.] 
 
 The Lichfield and Birmingham stage-coach set out this 
 morning [Monday] from the Eose Inn at Holbourn-bridge, 
 London, and will be at the house of Mx. Francis Cox, the 
 Angel and Hen and Chickens, in the High Town, Birmingham, 
 on Wednesday next to dinner, and goes the same afternoon to 
 Lichfield, and returns to Birmingham on Thm-sday morning to 
 breakfast, and gets to London on Saturday night, and so will 
 continue every week regularly, with a good coach and able 
 horses. 
 
 (1783.) George Inn^ Drury Lane. 
 
 Bath and Bristol post-coaches, in two easy days,* set out 
 from the above inn every morning at eight, sleep at Andover, 
 and arrive at Bristol early next evening. Fare to Bath, £2. 8. 
 
 * The express train now gets there in two easy hours.
 
 18 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 to Bristol, £2. 10. to be allowed 141b. luggage, and all above 
 to pay 3|d. per pound. The proprietors of the above coaches 
 humbly solicit the patronage of the public, and beg leave to 
 inform them that no parcel whatever above the value of £5. 
 will be paid for, if lost, unless booked as such, and paid for 
 accordingly. 
 Performed by Nelson and Co. London ; Dover and Co. Bath. 
 
 (1795) 
 London, Chester, Namptwich, Stafford, Lichfield, and Coven- 
 try, flying machine on Steele springs, in three days for the 
 winter season, sets out from the Swan-with-two-Necks, in 
 Ladlane, London, and the Talbot and Yacht Inns in Chester, 
 every Monday and Thursday morning, at two o'clock; Ues at 
 Lichfield and Towcester going up, and at Coventry and Woor 
 coming down, dines the third day at Chester. Each inside 
 passenger allowed 20lt)s. weight of luggage, for the overplus 
 to pay two pence per pound, and so in proportion to any 
 part of the road ; one half to be paid at booking, and the other 
 at entering the coach. Inside passengers to pay £4:4; out- 
 side, and childi-en on lap, half price. 
 
 r John Stanforth, Lad-lane, London. 
 Perform'd (if God 1 W. Dimock, Oxford road, 
 permit) by j John Erwin, Rochester. 
 ^ Thomas Latham, Woor. 
 
 *^* The proprietors will not be accountable for any plate, 
 jewels, or watches, unless entered and paid for as such. 
 
 Chester: printed by Read and Huxley, over the Eastgate. 
 
 Even as late as twenty-five years ago, (said Mr. Stephenson 
 at the dinner given to him at Conway,) men were content to 
 be dragged along in clumsey vehicles, roughly and rudely, at 
 the rate of eight or ten miles an hour. Now they can vie the 
 fleetness of motion with the swiftest horse ; nay, they could do 
 more, and had done more. They had commanded (and with 
 success) the lightning to transmit their thoughts from one end 
 of the kingdom to the other, with a speed like that of light, 
 and beyond the measurement of thought !
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 19 
 
 We shall now attempt to describe our intended tour, com- 
 mencing with the 
 
 ANCIENT CITY OF CHESTER. 
 
 There are few cities in Europe, or perhaps in the Universe, 
 which have a stronger claim to attention than Chester. The 
 eye of a stranger will have an ample field for admiration. The 
 man of taste who may pay it a visit, will not depart ungrati- 
 fied; nor will the antiquarian search in vain, for some rich 
 and profitable treasure of investigation within its walls: in 
 short, such is the antiquity of Chester, that the stranger who 
 can pass through without bestowing some little share of atten- 
 tion, must have an incurious eye indeed. It is situated on the 
 northern bank of the River Dee— a river which has been the 
 theme of poesy and the admiration of the ancients. 
 
 The following account of Chester, written nearly 400 years 
 ago, is extracted from the Poly-Chronicon* by Ralph Higden, 
 monk of St. Werburgh. Printed by Wynkyn de Worde, A. D. 
 1495. We insert it as a cuiiosity both as to orthography and 
 diction. 
 
 " The cj'le of legyons, that is Chestre, in the marches of 
 Englonde, towarde Wales, betwegne two armes of the see, that 
 bee named Dee and Mersey. Thys cyte, in tyme of Britons, 
 was hede and chyefe cyte of all Venedocia, that is, North 
 Wales. This cyte in brytyshe speche bete Cathleon, Chestre 
 in Englyshe, and Cyte of Legyons also. For there laye a wyn- 
 ter the legyons that Julius Cezar sent for to wyne Irlonde. 
 And after, Claudius Cezar sent legyons out of the cyte for to 
 wynn the islands that be called Orcades. Thys cyte hath 
 plente of lyveland, of com, of fleshe, and specyally of samon. 
 Thys cyte receyveth grate marchandyse, and sendeth out also. 
 Northubres destroyed this cyte sometyne, but Elfreda, lady of 
 Mercia, bylded it agayn, and made it mouch more. 
 
 " In thys cyte ben ways under erth, with vowtes and stone 
 worke, wonderfully iwrought, three chamberd werkes, grete 
 stones igrave with old mennes names there in. Thys is that 
 cyte that Ethelfreda, kinge of Northumberlonde, destroyed, and 
 sloughe there fast by, nygh two thousonde monkes of the myn- 
 
 • This extraordinary, scarce, and curious work was purchased 
 by the editor at a pubUc auction last year.
 
 20 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 ster of Bangor. Thys is the cyte that Kyng Edgar cam to, 
 some tyme, with seven kyngs that were subject to hym." 
 
 We could dilate at some length upon the various modern and 
 antiquated attractions of Chester, but as there is a new Guide 
 book just published,* containing a full account of its curiosities, 
 we shall merely point out a few of the numerous objects of 
 interest to strangers visiting this fine old city ; and by way of 
 brevity, we insert the following : — 
 
 1 — The Walls, with their four gates, embracing a circuit of 
 about two miles, forming a most beautiful and picturesque 
 walk round the city, and commanding extensive and diversified 
 views of the surrounding country. They were built as fortifi- 
 cations by the Romans, and were subsequently repaired by the 
 celebrated Saxon Princess Ethelflede, A.D. 908. From "King 
 Charles's Tower," at the north-east comer of the Walls, a beau- 
 tiful telescopic view of the surrounding country is shewn by 
 Mr. Hargreaves. The landscape includes Kowton Moor, cele- 
 brated for the conflict between the royal and parliamentary 
 armies in 1645, and which was witnessed by the unfortunate 
 King Charles the First from this tower. 
 
 2 — The Kows, or covered promenades in which the principal 
 shops are situated, are quite unique, and of remarkable con- 
 struction ; being a peculiar characteristic of the architecture of 
 Chester. 
 
 3 — The Cathedral (the choir of which has been most beau- 
 tifully restored and renovated) with its venerable cloisters, and 
 singularly interesting chapter house. The services are admir- 
 ably conducted, and the organ is a splendid new instrument. 
 
 Hours of service as follows: — Week-day, morning 7, 10; 
 afternoon, 3 ; Sunday, morning, 1 1 ; afternoon, 4 o'clock. There 
 is an anthem every day in the afternoon service. 
 
 4— The fine Old Chm-ch of St. John the Baptist, (in the 
 tenth century, the cathedral of the diocese), and the adjacent 
 ruins of the priory — edifices of great interest to antiquarians 
 and students of ecclesiology. 
 
 5 — Old Houses in Watergate-street, Bridge-street, North- 
 gate-street, and Eastgate-street — the first named being espe- 
 cially remarkable as illustrative of the domestic architecture 
 of the " olden time." 
 
 6 — The ancient Crypt and Roman Bath, in Bridge-street — . 
 singular relics of departed ages. 
 
 * By T. Catherall, Eastgate Row.
 
 FROJf CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 21 
 
 7 — Chester Castle, a noble and spacious modern structure, 
 in which the shire hall and entrance gate are beautiful speci- 
 mens of architecture, and the county gaol is a building of 
 some interest, from the extent and completeness of its interior. 
 The part of the castle appropriated to the garrison is also wor- 
 thy of observation; including Julius Caesar's tower, a portion 
 of the ancient fortress, and the armoury, containing a stand of 
 arms for 30,000 men, beautifully arranged after the manner of 
 the Tower of London, and 90 pieces of ordnance. 
 
 8 — The Roodee, the most verdant and picturesque race 
 course in the kingdom, with its stands, and the viaduct of the 
 Chester and Holyhead Railway over the Dee. The length of 
 the course is one mile and forty yards. 
 
 9 — The Grosvenor Bridge, the finest and widest arch of 
 masonry in Europe, being two hundred feet in the span, and 
 of most admirable proportions. This bridge was opened by the 
 Queen, when Princess Victoria, in October, 1832. 
 
 10 — The Entrance Lodge from the Grosvenor road to Eaton 
 Park — an elegant specimen of architecture. 
 
 1 1 — Eaton Hall, a magnificent Gothic mansion, the splendid 
 seat of the Marquis of Westminster, with its noble park and 
 exstensive pleasure grounds and gardens. The excursion to the 
 hall may he made from Chester through the park or by the 
 river. 
 
 12 — The Museum of the Mechanics' Institution, at the old 
 Water Tower on the City Walls, containing many rare curio- 
 sities and a camera obscura, 
 
 13 — Jacob's Well at the Groves : and the Old Bridge over the 
 Dee, originally constructed by Edward the Elder, and noted in 
 chronicles of the thirteenth century, since which it has received 
 several alterations and repairs. 
 
 The Blue Coat Hospital in Northgate-street ; the Training 
 College on the Parkgate-road ; the Grosvenor Schools near St, 
 John's Church; the Linen Hall, in Stanley Place, where the 
 Cheese Fairs are held; the Chester Infirmary, near the Water 
 Tower; the Exchange in Northgate-street; and the Bishop's 
 Palace in Abbey Square, will also attract the attention of visit- 
 ors. The Theatre Royal is in Northgate-sti-eet ; and is part of 
 an old church once dedicated to St. Nicholas ! 
 
 The sail from Chester up the placid waters of the river Dee 
 to the Iron Bridge in Eaton Park, is considered the most pic- 
 turesque Arithin one hundred miles of the city. Pic-nic parties 
 
 c
 
 22 A RAILWAY C03IPANIO:S 
 
 can be accommodated at the beautiful cottage near the bridge, 
 which is delightfully situated within a short distance of the 
 princely seat of the most noble the Marquis of Westminster. 
 
 Boats and barges may be had of the following parties : — 
 Sarah Aikman, Groves Gardens ; Samuel Dodd, Groves ; James 
 Sumpter, Groves Ropewalk; who have always a supply of boats 
 and barges for hire, and steady men as rowers or steersmen, 
 and to attend to the boats. 
 
 The following is a list of the family and commercial hotels 
 and respectable inns at Chester: — Royal Hotel, Eastgate- street; 
 Albion Hotel, Lower Bridge-street; Feathers Hotel, Bridge- 
 street; White Lion Hotel, Northgate-street ; Pied Bull Inn, 
 Northgate- street; Hop-pole Inn, Foregate-street ; Green Dra- 
 gon Inn, Eastgate-street; Blossoms Inn, Foregate-street; Old 
 Nag's Head Inn, Foregate-street; King's Head Inn and Cam- 
 brian House, Grosvenor-street ; and Red Lion Inn, Bridge-st. 
 
 There are several temperance hotels and confectioners, where 
 parties can have snacks, lunches, &c. 
 
 Antiquity of Chester. 
 
 Chester is perhaps the most curious and unique town in 
 Great Britain, or indeed in Europe, It was founded by the 
 Britons, and erected into a city and military station by the 
 Romans. The British name is " Caerlleon ar Ddfyrdwy," 
 which it retains to this day, and which implies " The City of 
 Lleon on the Dee." It was the head quarters of the 20th 
 Legion, which came to Britain previous to A.D. 60, having 
 assisted in the defeat of Boadicea by Suetonius; and in A.D. 
 73, it was repaired, walled, and fortified by Marius, son of 
 Arviragus. 
 
 Roman Roads to and from Chester. 
 
 This city, even in those days, was a place of great resort, 
 and appears to have been selected as the terminus of as many 
 ancient Roman roads to it, as it has in our days been the fa- 
 vourite terminus of modern railways. The engineers of the 
 former were the great generals, Suetonius and Agricola ; while 
 those of the latter are no less than the renowned father of 
 railways, George Stephenson, Esq., and his highly talented 
 son, Robert Stephenson, Esq. M.P. 
 
 " The ancient military road of the Romans, called ' WatUng 
 Street,' went through Chester." — Henry of Huntingdon.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 23 
 
 *' The old Eoman way from London to the North wheeled 
 about by Chester." — Antonius' Itinerary. 
 
 A second highway crossed the country in a south-west tract 
 from Manchester into Montgomeryshire. A third went from 
 Chester into Anglesea. A fourth from Chester to Bangor, the 
 old Eoman Boniura, corruptly Bovium. The fifth from Chester 
 to Northwich and Middlewich, which was observed as a visible 
 highway cast up after the manner of the Eomans. 
 
 It is a singular fact, that Chester is now similarly situated 
 with i-egard to road conveyance in these days as it was when 
 formerly governed by the Eomans. It was then the focus or 
 central point, where five Eoman roads united. It is now the 
 grand focus which five important railway companies have se- 
 lected as the terminus of their lines ! 
 
 General Eailway Station. 
 
 This grand central terminus station for all the lines meeting 
 at Chester — the London and North Western — the Chester and 
 Holyhead — the Shrewsbury and Chester — and the Birkenhead 
 Lancashire and Chesliire Junction Eailways, — was designed 
 by Mr. Thompson, the celebrated architect, of London, who 
 planned the Derby station. It is admirably adapted for the 
 purpose of developing all those facihties and conveniences 
 which are the characteristics of the railway system. The 
 station consists of a facade facing the city of Chester, 1010 
 feet long, built of dark-coloured fire-bricks, relieved with stone 
 facings and dressings. The centre of this building, which is 
 two stories in height, contains, on the ground floor, the usual 
 ofl^ces, waiting and refreshment rooms ; and, on the upper floor, 
 oflSces for the general station committee, and for the Chester & 
 Holyhead and the Shrewsbury & Chester Companies, in which 
 the business connected with the whole of their lines is con- 
 ducted. The number of ofiices and rooms exceed fifty. 
 
 The wings are formed by projecting arcades, with iron roofs, 
 and are appropriated to private and public vehicles, waiting 
 the arrival of trains. On the inner side of the office buildings, 
 a large platform extends, which is chiefly used for departing 
 trains, and is 740 feet long by 20 feet wide; this and three 
 lines of rails are covered by an iron roof, 60 feet in span, 
 designed by ^Ir. Wylde, C.E. which is one of the most elegant 
 yet constructed; and as the height of the walls on which it 
 rests is 24 feet from the platform, the whole shed has a very
 
 24 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 imposing effect. Behind this shed, and only divided from it 
 by a series of pillars and arches, is a shed for spare carriages, 
 600 feet long by 52 feet vnde, also covered with a beautifully 
 constructed iron roof. There are likewise two sheds for arrival 
 trains, each 290 feet long by 24 feet broad, in a line with the 
 office buildings, and filling the space between the arrival shed 
 and the shed for vehicles. The full extent of the passenger 
 station, from the carriage landing at the east end to the one at 
 the west end, is 1160 feet. 
 
 This noble building is an object of considerable attraction. 
 It occupies a space of ground a quarter of a mile in length. 
 The design is remarkable for its beauty and grandeur of pro- 
 portion. Much praise is due to Mr. Brassey, the spirited con- 
 tractor, for the workmanlike and expeditious manner in which 
 he has accomplished this stupendous edifice; the foundation 
 stone of which was laid iji August, 1847, and on the 1st of 
 August, 1848, it was opened for traffic. The length of the 
 line immediately connected with the passenger station is about 
 1 .5,000 feet, with 36 turn tables, and numerous points and cros- 
 sings. Great credit is due to E. L. Jones, Esq. the committee's 
 secretary and general manager, who superintended the entire 
 ■ work during its progress, suggesting and causing such altera- 
 tions to be made as he deemed necessary for the general com- 
 fort and convenience of the public. 
 
 Behind stands the Goods Station, a substantial red and blue 
 brick building, consisting of a shed 180 feet long and 120 feet 
 wide, with four railway and two cart entrances, at either end, 
 and one railway entrance in front. It is covered by two large 
 roofs, supported down the centre of the building by cast-iron 
 columns and girders, and lighted by two skylights, each 175 
 feet long and 14 feet wide. The new bridge is of handsome 
 design, built by Messrs. E. L. Betts and Son, with brick and 
 stone, consisting of six girder and fifteen brick arches; the 
 latter of which are converted into stabling, and the side of the 
 branch leading down to the Goods Station into cattle landings. 
 It is 1040 feet long, and 30 feet wide within the battlements. 
 There are also four semaphore light-houses, gas-works, a spa- 
 cious reservoir, &c. The total cost was above £220,000. 
 
 We will now suppose that the traveller and the *' Railway 
 Companion" have been introduced and are in a mood to enjoy 
 each other's conversation relative to the scenerv and the beau-
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOT.YHEAD. 25 
 
 ties of the intended trip through Wales. The warning bell 
 has rung; our fellow- passengers hasten to take their seats, the 
 steam issues in dense silver masses, and the engine already is 
 in motion. 
 
 Now science, burning in her modern way. 
 Propels the power, and bids the piston play. 
 
 We had not been many seconds on our way before we heard 
 the loud and shrill railway whistle, announcing ouv approach to 
 the tunnel, 300 yards long, under Northgate- street and the ad- 
 jacent gardens, into which the carriages immediately enter, and 
 emerge through deep cuttings of red rock. The train winds 
 its way over the girder bridge crossing the Ellesmere and 
 Chester Canal, dashes through the west angle of the City 
 Walls, and enters on the high and long embankment over the 
 Tower-field and crosses the two Crane-streets. The line is 
 here carried on a viaduct of forty-seven arches. On the left 
 is the far-famed 
 
 ROODEE, 
 
 Where the celebrated Chester races take place in the spring 
 and autumn of every year. This beautiful piece of ground is 
 nearly encircled by the River Dee on the one part and the City 
 Walls on the other. The genteel houses lately built on the 
 elevated ground called Curzon Cresent, ending with Gros- 
 venor Bridge and its gigantic arch on the one side, and the 
 Chester and Holyhead Railway Viaduct on the other, gives the 
 Eoodee the appearance of a splendid amphi-theatre, enclosing 
 an area of about 84 acres of rich meadow land; these, toge- 
 ther with a view of Chester Castle, St. Bridget's Church, and 
 the Grosvenor Grand Lodge, add considerably to the beauty of 
 this interesting and animating scenery, — particularly at the 
 time of the races, which are second to none in the kingdom. 
 The number of horses entered for the tradesmen's cup in 1848 
 was no less than 156, out of which 106 accepted, being by far 
 the largest number on record for one race in this or any other 
 country: the handicapping, by Mr. W. E. Topham, gave great 
 satisfaction ; 34 started for the rich prize, and the owner of the 
 winner (Peep-o'-Day Boy) received the stakes, amounting to 
 £2500. The entry for 1849 exceeded 200, and 108 accepted. 
 The railway carriages cross 
 
 The River Dee 
 On the largest cast-iron girder-bridge in the kingdom. One
 
 26 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 of the girders broke in two while the train was passing over 
 on the 24th of May, 1847, a day never to be forgotten in the 
 city of Chester, from the dreadful crash and awful accident 
 that took place on the occasion : four lives were lost, and a 
 great many maimed and injured. Since then, every means have 
 been employed by the company to make the bridge as secure 
 as possible. The government engineer has examined it, tested 
 its strength, and pronounced it safe; and now the public are 
 generally satisfied of its stability. 
 
 All the ancient authors who have written on the city of 
 Chester, have attached high importance to the river Dee, as 
 affording facility to its trade and commerce, as well as the 
 primitive source of its greatness and renown. It formerly 
 made Chester the receptacle of merchandise from all kingdoms 
 and nations who traded in the British and Irish Ocean, and 
 became the very key and inlet from which not only the Romans, 
 but the Saxons and Normans in their time, made the passage 
 to and from Ireland. 
 
 There is no river in England which has been so much cele- 
 brated by our poets for its sanctity as the Dee. Most countries 
 had one which they held in peculiar veneration, but this is 
 pre-eminently distinguished, and is noticed by our earliest his- 
 torians and bards. Giraldus gives us the first prophetic qua- 
 lity of the Dee in 1188, and the notion has been entertained 
 for many years after his time. Spencer introduces it among 
 the rivers attendant on the marriage of the Thames and the 
 Medway. 
 
 And following Dee, which Britons long ygone 
 Did call Divine, that doth by Chester tend. 
 
 But Drayton is still more particular, and adds many of its 
 presaging qualities, delivered down to him from the men of 
 ancient times. 
 
 Again Dee's holiness began, 
 A river that was supposed much business to have seen, 
 Which had an ancient bound, 'twixt Wales and England been. 
 
 And lastly, Milton, in the follomng line, beautifully alludes 
 to the interpreters of the presages among the Britons and 
 the Ancient Druids, who dwelt upon its banks : — 
 
 Nor yet where Deva spreads her wizard stream. 
 
 Immediately after passing over the Dee bridge, the carriages 
 enter some deep cuttings through Brewer's Hall Hill, from
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 27 
 
 which position the celebrated Oliver Cromwell with his cannon 
 bombarded the city. About half a mile from hence will bring 
 us to 
 
 SALTNEY STATION, 
 
 "Where the Wrexham, Euabon, and Shrewsbury railway wheels 
 off to the left; a branch of this line is connected with the 
 quay on the right, where a vast quantity of Brombro, Ruabon, 
 and other coals are shipped to various parts. 
 
 The tract of land we now enter upon is called Saltney, and 
 was formerly granted by Robert the lord of Mold to the monks 
 of Basingwerk for pasturage. In 1156, King Henry II. en- 
 camped on Saltney Marsh with a great army, which he had 
 gathered from all parts of England for the purpose of sHibduing 
 North Wales. Henry, too confident in the strength and dis- 
 cipline of his troops, ordered them to march forward, till at 
 length his forces got entangled in some woods and other snares 
 which were laid for them. The Welsh, under the command of 
 Owen Gwynedd, sprang upon the enemy all of a sudden ; and 
 so fierce was the attack, that the cries of the English were 
 horrible,* and the slaughter equally dreadful. The remaining 
 part of the English were routed in all directions, and followed 
 even to Henry's camp on Saltney Marsh. 
 
 The line now runs parallel for several miles with the river 
 Dee. The extensive tract of land on the right across the river 
 is called 
 
 Sealand, 
 
 Which has from time to time been enclosed from the sea, by 
 the River Dee Company, constituted by Act of Parliament in 
 1732. This company was permitted to enclose the land on 
 these terms : — " That they shall make and keep the new chan- 
 nel of the river Dee navigable from the sea to a certain point 
 (close to the place where the railway passes over the river,) 
 within the liberties of the city of Chester, in such manner that 
 there shall be 16 feet of water (which was by a subsequent act 
 reduced to 15 feet) in every part of the said river, at a mode- 
 rate spring tide, for vessels to come and go to and from the 
 city of Chester. It appears that the company have inclosed 
 4000 acres of land, from which they derive a very large in- 
 come ; but they have not fulfilled the other part of their con- 
 tract, viz. — keeping the river navigable at 15 feet of water. 
 * Lord Lyttleton's History of Henry II. pp. 72, 73.
 
 23 A RAILWAY COIMPANION 
 
 The situation of Chester is preeminently calculated to force 
 an extensive trade, particularly now, bein,^ the terminus of no 
 less than_/?ve different railroads, which will bring it into imme- 
 diate connection with all the manufacturing districts of Eng- 
 land. There is no doubt that the port of Chester might be 
 made a depot for a great portion of the agricultural produce 
 of Ireland, which forms so considerable an item of the trade 
 of Liverpool. The number of vessels employed in this trade 
 in 1839 was 3395, carrying 517,807 tons, estimated at the 
 value of £6,500,000 ! This amount since that time is no 
 doubt much increased. We state these facts in the hope that 
 they might be seen by some spirited parties who Avould be 
 disposed to speculate and endeavour to procure a shai-e of the 
 traffic of Ireland to Chester, which offers great facilities by 
 railway to all the manufacturing districts. We had written 
 thus far in our first edition. Since then we are happy to find that 
 the subject has been taken up with unusual spirit by Sir 
 Edward Samuel Walker, mayor of Chester; Robert Turner, 
 Esq. sherif}"; John Rosson, Esq. &c. ; supported by a great majo- 
 rity of the town council and nearly all the citizens of Ches- 
 ter, who are backed by the M.P. s' of the surrounding district. 
 
 After passing a small bridge over a brook which divides the 
 counties of Chester and Flint, about a mile from the station, 
 we enter the 
 
 PRINCIPALITY OF WALES. 
 
 Beautiful art thou, land of my home, e'en to a stranger's glance ; 
 Thy mountains are magnificent, thy castles breathe romance : 
 There is a charm in the ' time-worn towers,' a sadly pleasing spell, 
 In the roofless chambers where alone the owl and the ivy dwell. 
 Land of the bard, the harp, the song, land of my love and birth, 
 Oh be the ' Awen ' still thine own, and thine the kindly hearth ! 
 
 The following account of Wales, its productions and traffic, 
 written about 400 years ago by one of the monks of Chester 
 already quoted, will no doubt be considered a curiosity, both as 
 regards the orthography and the versification. 
 
 Now thys boke taketh in hode 
 Wales to fare Englonde. 
 So take I my tales. 
 And wende into Wales, 
 To that noble blood 
 Of Pyramus blood, 
 Knowleche for to wynne 
 Of grete Jupyter'skymi^i
 
 TKOM CHESTER TO H&LYIIEAD. 29 
 
 Wales now is called Wallia, 
 And some tyme it bete Cambria ; 
 And though this londe 
 Be moche lesse than Englonde, 
 As good glebe is one as other, 
 In the daughter as in the moder. 
 
 Tho' that londe be lujte. 
 
 It is full of corn and of fruyte, 
 
 And hath grete plenty, I wys, 
 
 Of fleshe and eyke of fyshe. 
 
 Of beestes tame and wylde. 
 
 Of horse, shepe, and oxen mylde. 
 
 Good londe for all seedes. 
 
 For corn, grass, and herbes that spredes. 
 
 There bey woodes and medes, 
 
 Herbes and floures there spredes : 
 
 There bee ryvers and -vvelles, 
 
 Vallyes andalso hylles ; 
 
 Vallyes brj-nge forthe flood, 
 
 Andhylles metals good. 
 
 Cool (coals) groweth under lande, 
 
 And grass above atte hande. 
 
 There lyme is copyous, 
 
 And slattes for hous ; 
 
 Honey and mylke whyte. 
 
 There is dej-nte and not lyte ; 
 
 Of bracket methe and ale. 
 
 In drynking which, they tell a merry tale." 
 
 The various Productions of the Principality. 
 
 Few countries can vie witli the principality in the multifa- 
 rious variety of its productions, while none perhaps have been 
 so long and undeservedly neglected. The mineral productions 
 of this country form a very interesting subject ; and will fur- 
 nish, for ages to come, an inexhaustible source of profitable 
 investment to individuals, and of commercial and national 
 wealth. It is to be hoped that the facilities afforded by the 
 railway will induce public companies and spirited individuals 
 to explore our hills and our valleys. The wealth which has 
 from time to time been extracted from our mountains has ele- 
 vated men from the lowest ranks in life to affluence and inde- 
 pendence, created squires and baronets, and added grandeur to 
 the equipages of noblemen. The most useful and valuable 
 minerals are still to be found in abundance in various parts of 
 Wales, and it only requires more capital and enterprising spirit 
 to "work them to great advantage. 
 
 As we were gazing upon the Welsh hills which had just 
 made their appearance, this delightful prospect brought to our
 
 30 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 mind the sweet recollections of bygone days. The following 
 lines by South ey occured to us: — 
 
 Lo! yonder 
 My native mountains ! and how beautiful 
 They rest in the blaze of noon ! I was nursed among them : 
 They saw my sports in childhood ! 
 
 The Clwydian hills are seen at a distance; the one in the 
 centre is the highest, and is called 
 
 MoEL Fa:m:mau, 
 Or the Mother of Hills. On the apex of this mountain, which 
 is 1845 feet above the level of the sea, the gentlemen of the 
 counties of Flint and Denbigh erected by public subscription, 
 in 1810, a Jubilee Column, to commemorate the fiftieth 
 anniversary of the reign of George the Third. It is a rough 
 stone pyramidal mass of masonry, 150 feet in height, and 60 
 feet in diameter at the base. The monument was executed 
 from a design by Thomas Harrison, Esq. of Chester; and the 
 first stone was laid by Lord Kenyon, on the 25th of October, 
 1810, in the presence of upwards of 3000 people. The view 
 from this elevated spot is most varied and extensive. The 
 celebrated Vale of Clwyd is seen from one end to the other, 
 and appears as a map laid out before the spectator: the Derby- 
 shire hills, the Wrekin in Shropshire, Snowdon and Cader 
 Idris in Wales, as well as the Cumberland hills, and even the 
 Isle of Man, are seen from this elevated spot. The traveller 
 who delights in romantic scenery may here gratify his taste 
 without any of the inconveniences which attend more elevated 
 stations : he will not have a tedious ascent, nor be incommoded 
 by the excessive cold nor the intervention of cloudy vapours, 
 such as are frequently experienced on the top of Snowdon and 
 Cader Idris, 
 
 Proceeding onward, we pass on the left the branch railway 
 to ]\Iold, and shortly afterwards reach Sandycroft, where there 
 is a large foundry, which gives employment to a vast number 
 of mechanics. About two miles on the left is seen the castle 
 and town of 
 
 HAWARDEN. 
 
 it is considered one of the largest parishes and richest livings 
 in the kingdom. Hawarden Castle, the seat of Sir Stephen R. 
 Glynne, Bart., is a castellated mansion of modern erection, in
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 31 
 
 the Gothic style of the thirteenth century. In the park are 
 the ruins of a castle of very ancient date, built by the Britons ; 
 the earliest account we have of it is in 790, when Offa, King 
 of Mercia, made his celebrated dyke (called Clawdd Offa) as 
 a boundary between his kingdom and that of Wales : Hawarden 
 was then in his dominions, and is connected with several very 
 curious historical and singular events, arising from those con- 
 tingencies of warfare and other causes which no sagacity can 
 foresee, nor limited power prevent. 
 
 Political Conference held here. 
 
 Some time during the rebellion, the potent earl of Leicester 
 took prisoners at the battle of Lewes King Henry the Third 
 and his son Prince Edward : the former he carried about as a 
 state pageant, and the latter he committed to close custody in 
 Hereford. In order to further his insurrection, the earl, in 
 1264, held a political conference at this castle with Llywelyn, 
 prince of Wales, when both entered into an iniquitous league, 
 by which each pledged his honour to promote the execution 
 of their respective designs. By this compact peace was made 
 between the Welsh frontiers and the marches of Cheshire. In 
 the month of June, the following year, the captive monarch 
 was, under existing circumstances, necessitated to renounce his 
 assumed right to several of his unjustly acquired possessions; 
 among others, he was compelled to give up this fortress; and 
 what was still more mortifying to Henry's feelings, he was 
 obliged to make an absolute cession of the whole sovereignty 
 of Wales and its bai'onial suffrages. By this treaty the barons 
 were compelled to make their submission for their tenure to 
 Llywelyn, the prince of Wales, instead of to Henry, the king 
 of England! 
 
 Ancient Possessors. 
 
 This fortress was for centuries in the possession of the an- 
 cient and noble house of Stanley, until after the demise of 
 James, Earl of Derby, who, being taken prisoner at the battle 
 of Worcester, was beheaded, and the estate sequestered in 
 1651. 
 
 The following brief but singular history of the noble and 
 distinguished owners of this place will not be uninteresting. 
 Henry the Seventh paid a visit to this castle in the month of 
 July, 1494, attended by the Earl of Derby and other nobles.
 
 32 A RAILWAY COMP.V^^OX 
 
 He stayed here and at Knowsley about a month, with his mo- 
 ther, the Duchess of Richmond and Derby, and his father-in- 
 law, the Earl of Derby. He was created Earl of Derby* after 
 the battle of Bosworth Field, for his services and firm attach- 
 ment to Henry, at the risk of the life of his pledged son and heir, 
 Lord Strange. 
 
 Sir Edward Stanley, the fifth son of the aforesaid Earl of 
 Derby, distinguished himself at the battle of Flodden Field, 
 by winning the hill and relieving the English, in 1513; Where- 
 upon the king (Henry the Eighth) commanded that whereas 
 his ancestors bore the eagle in their crest, he should be pro- 
 claimed the Lord Monteagle, and by this title he was sum- 
 moned to parliament on the 5th February, 1514. William, the 
 grandson of this Sir Edward, left an only daughter, Elizabeth, 
 wife of Edward Parker Lord Morley, by whom she had a son 
 named William, who was created by James the First, Lord 
 Morley and Monteagle, and was the very person to whom that 
 obscure letter was directed which prevented the destruction of 
 the lords and commons in the parliament-house by the nefa- 
 rious plot of the 5th November, 1605. 
 
 Ferdinand, the fifth Earl of Derby, and proprietor of this 
 castle, succeeded to the immense estates of his forefathers in 
 1594, but died in 1596. During his short possession, a person 
 of the name of Hesketh was sent by the King of Spain to him 
 offering to crown him King of England ; but he was too loyal ; 
 he brought Hesketh before the Queen and council, when he 
 was arraigned, found guilty, and hanged. 
 
 James, the seventh Earl of Derby, and proprietor of this 
 castle, was highly distinguished for learning, prudence, loyalty, 
 and valour. On the great rebellion he repaired to King Charles 
 at York, after he was driven from Whitehall, and was his real 
 friend through all his misfortunes ; and upon his death, Jan. 
 30th, 1649, he attached himself to Charles the Second with 
 equal sincerity. After the unfortunate battle of Worcester, 
 Sept. 3, 1651, his lordship conducted his majesty to a friend's 
 
 * Sh- Wm. Stanley of Holt castle, brother to the above earl, con- 
 tributed lare;ely to the fortune of the eventful battle of Bosworth- 
 field, for, at a critical moment of the battle, when Henry's hopes 
 were ui evident danger, he brought 3,000 horse and foot into the 
 field, and not only rescued the prince, but gave him victory and 
 crowned him upon the field of battle. Sir William was afterwards 
 beheaded, and all his large property confiscated upon a slight and 
 unfounded suspicion of his favoring the cause of Parkin Warbec,
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 33 
 
 house, afterwards famous for the royal oak ; but in attempting 
 his own escape, he fell into the hands of the enemy, who sent 
 him to Chester, where he was tried by a court-martial of 12 
 sequestrators and committee-men, by whom he was condemned 
 to be beheaded at Bolton, within four days; and this sentence 
 he underwent the 15th of October, 1651. The sequestrators, 
 says Dean Swift, were generally the greatest knaves in the 
 kingdom. From these parties, Sergeant Glynne, who was an 
 equally notorious character, and at that time in favour with 
 Cromwell, purchased at a nominal price the inheritance of 
 Ha warden Castle, in whose family the demesne and rectory still 
 remain, the present owner being Sir S. K. Glynne, hart., lord 
 lieutenant of the county; and his brother, the Eev. Henry 
 Glynne, is the present rector of the rich living of Ha warden. 
 In 1750, it scarcely amounted to £400; but now it is upwards 
 of £4000 a-year ! 
 
 Havvarden was the birth-place of that great patron of the 
 fine arts. Alderman Boydell, late lord mayor of London. It 
 gives the title of Viscount to the family of Maude. There are 
 several considerable coal mines in the different townships of this 
 and the adjoining parishes, which are shipped to various parts. 
 — The next object is 
 
 Buckley Church. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Buckley has very much increased in 
 population, by the employment afforded in the collieries, and 
 the earthenware manufacture, such as tiles, fire-bricks, &c. 
 The bricks made of the S. S. clay are equal in quality to the 
 best Stourbridge. Pipes for draining and agricultural purposes, 
 bearers of every size, tiles of every description for flooring, malt 
 kilns, and articles for gas-works to any pattern, are manufac- 
 tured by the Ewloe fire-brick and tile company, conducted by 
 Mr. Shepherd, and also by Messrs. Hancock — Royle — and Ca- 
 therall, each of whom employ a vast number of men. Mr. 
 Catherall manufactures a great quantity of course earthenware 
 and every description of kitchen requisites, which are shipped 
 for Ireland, South Wales, &c. The Welsh fire-bricks manu- 
 factured here, in consequence of the fine quality of the clay, 
 are considered superior to any that are made in England; 
 consequently, the principal marts in the kingdom are supplied 
 from this place. They are shipped in great quantities from 
 the Dee, three miles oft". Any quantity of coal may be had, to 
 complete the cargoes of vessels to different parts of the world.
 
 34 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 Mr. Bartholomew Prescott, the author of the inverted scheme 
 of Copernicus, was a native of Buckley. About three miles 
 from hence is the populous town of 
 
 MOLD. 
 
 This town is delightfully situated in a pleasant valley, watered 
 by the river Alun. The township contains from 9000 to 
 10,000 inhabitants, the majority of whom are employed in the 
 mines. There are large fairs held here, and excellent weekly 
 markets. The principal inns are the Black Lion Hotel and the 
 Eoyal Oak Inn, where the tourist will find every accommoda- 
 tion. By the late reform act, Mold has been constituted one 
 of the contributory boroughs of Flint, to return a member to 
 parliament. This parish abounds in mineral wealth, and the 
 district is especially rich in lead ore. The county assizes are 
 held in this town : a new county hall has been erected, from a 
 design of Thomas Jones, Esq., of Chester, at a cost of £3000. 
 Numerous tumuli are seen in this neighbourhood. In October, 
 1823, a skeleton was discovered in a field, by some men plough- 
 ing ; at its feet an earthen pot was found, containing ashes, and 
 on the breast a large plate of gold, richly ornamented, which 
 was valued at £70, and was purchased by the trustees of the 
 British Museum. 
 
 The church is a handsome structure, and dedicated to St. 
 Mary. Close to the north door is a tomb-stone, erected to the 
 memory of the ingenious but much neglected artist, Wilson, the 
 Welsh Claude. It contains the following simple inscription ; — 
 " The remains of Eichard Wilson, Esq., member of the Eoyal 
 Academy of Artists, interred May 15, 1782, aged 69." In the 
 aisle is a superb monument to E. Davies, Esq., Llanerch, the 
 celebrated antiquary. Here also is an epitaph to Dr. Wynne, 
 of the Tower ; composed by himself, and put up in his life-time. 
 The conclusion is, " God be merciful to me a sinner. Heb 
 Dduw, heb ddim," i.e., without the grace of God we are desti- 
 tute. — Here there are also chapels and places of worship for all 
 denominations of dissenters. 
 
 There is a branch railway from this town, which joins the 
 Chester and Holyhead line near Saltney. 
 
 The lead mines in this locality have been exceedingly prolific. 
 The veins in some instances are from four to six feet wide, con- 
 sisting of solid ore. Seventy tons have been known, on some 
 occasions, to have been obtained in one week, and were it not
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 35 
 
 for the immense quantity of water, the same might be procured 
 again. 
 
 At the top of High-street there is a lofty and conspicuous 
 hill, called Bailey Hill, partly natural and partly artificial; 
 upon which formerly stood a fortification, originally built by the 
 Britons. 
 
 Mold is surrounded with gentlemen's seats, viz. — Hartsheath 
 Park, Leeswood Hall, Nerquis Hall, Plas-hen, Colomehdy, 
 Gwssanau, Pihual, Coed-du, Plas-isa', Penbedw, Nannerch Hall, 
 &c., &c. — Proceeding onwards on the line, the next place we 
 come to is 
 
 ^ QUEEN'S FERRY STATION. 
 
 Before the railway was opened, this was a place of very 
 considerable traffic, it being a much nearer cut for the inhabi- 
 tants of this part of the country to go to Liverpool ; the dis- 
 tance from here to Sutton, on the Birkenhead fine, is only eight 
 miles, and is a free ferry across the Dee, over which the Mold 
 and Holywell coaches pass to and fro daily, which, with the 
 large quantity of shipping, make it a hvely place. 
 
 About a mile on the left, on a gentle eminence, is Aston 
 Hall, the property of Admiral Dundas, M.P. for Greenwich, 
 occupied by Captain Cole, R.N. About a mile further, will 
 take us opposite another ancient house, Wepre Hall, about the 
 same distance from the line on the left ; this place is the pro- 
 perty of H. Arthur Jones, Esq., and is twice mentioned in 
 "Doomsday book" as an estate, possessing "two villeyns, and 
 two boars, and a wood a league and a half long," which no 
 doubt was the road to the adjoining fortress, 
 
 EwLOE Castle, 
 the remains of which are situated about a mile further in the 
 interior, surrounded with wood. It must have been in a demo- 
 lished state for some years past, for Leland, in his " Itinerary," 
 represents it as a " ruinous castle, or pile, belonging to Hoel." 
 Adjoining the castle there is a wood called Coed Ewloe, (the 
 woods of Ewloe), celebrated for the memorable defeat which a 
 part of the. flower of Henry the Second's army received in 1 157, 
 from David and Conan, sons of our gallant hero, Owen Gwynedd. 
 — About half a mile further on the right is 
 
 Cuxxah's Quay, 
 
 Where a considerable business is done in shipping. The prin- 
 cipal commodities are coal, tiles, fire-bricks, &c. which arc
 
 36 A RAILWAY COIilPAJflOK 
 
 exported to Ireland and different parts of England. — On the 
 left, situated on a rising eminence, is St. Mark's Churcli, built 
 within these last ten years for the accommodation of this po- 
 pulous neighbourhood, which is too far from the parish church 
 at Northop. — The river Dee from Chester to this place is con- 
 fined between two embankments ; and from hence, for about a 
 mile, by a sea-wall of loose stones, to prevent the water from 
 expanding over a large surface of sandy land of several hun- 
 dred acres, nearly ready for inclosing, belonging to the Eiver 
 Dee Company. The line here enters through deep cuttings 
 and a short tunnel. Immediately afterwards a fine view of the 
 
 ESTUAKY OF THE DeE 
 
 presents itself, which at full tide assumes the appearance of an 
 arm of the sea, when it is enlivened by numerous vessels float- 
 ing on the surface, which, spreading their varied canvass to 
 the wind as they make their numerous tacks, has a pretty 
 effect. — About a mile further, on the left, in a sweet dingle, is 
 
 Kelstekton, 
 
 the neat residence of Edward Bate, Esq. who has considerably 
 improved the appearance of this neighbourhood. The view of 
 the estuary from this place, particularly from the croft opposite 
 the mansion, is very fine. The Cheshire shore, on a fine day, 
 is seen to advantage; and the rural church and steeple of 
 Shotwick. Burton and Puddington Hall, with their woody 
 parks and lawns, has a beautiful effect. We must not forget 
 the celebrated Kelsterton brewery: the quality of the ale 
 brewed here was satisfactorily proved before a committee of the 
 House of Commons to be superior in quality and more condu- 
 cive to health than the best London porter. The house on the 
 hill above is Fron, the seat of Mr. White. It is nearly en- 
 veloped in wood and covered with ivy. A little further on is 
 Oaken Holt, the property of Mrs. WilHams. 
 
 A little further still is Leadbrook. This estate was lately 
 purchased by the Hon. E. M. LI. Mostyn, M.P. for £30,000. 
 It takes its name, no doubt, from the ancient smelting hearths 
 which lie beneath the house, where the Romans smelted the 
 ore obtained in the neighbourhood, and particularly the adja- 
 cent hills on
 
 itrom chester to holyhead. 37 
 
 Halkin Mountain, 
 
 A ricli mineral tract formerly in the possession of the crown. 
 It was granted in the time of Charles the First to Sir Richard 
 Grosvenor, by whose representative, the present Marquis of 
 Westminster, the royalty of all the mines is still enjoyed. It 
 has been the source of immense wealth to this family for gene- 
 rations past. 
 
 Halkin Castle. 
 
 The late Marquis built here a splendid mansion in the cas- 
 tellated style, to which place his lordship oc(jasionally resorted 
 for a quiet retreat. It is situated near the village of Halkin, 
 surrounded with ancient timber, and commands a beautiful 
 view of a large extent of country. 
 
 At diSferent periods, the metallic productions of this moun- 
 tain have afforded prodigious wealth to the several adventurers. 
 As an instance, we would mention one spot called " Pont y pwll 
 dwr," which yielded to those concerned, in the space of a few 
 years, upwards of a million sterling/! It. is our opinion that 
 there is still plenty of ore in Halkin Mountain, as w^ell as seve- 
 ral other parts of this county, and only requires men of capital 
 and enterprise to work it out. 
 
 The great mine at Halkin was discovered by a poor man 
 ditching, and that at Llangynnog in Montgomeryshire, by the 
 slip of a woman's foot ascending a hill, and baring the vein 
 with her feet. Formerly, lead ore and other minerals were to 
 be found on the surface ; but as they grew more scarce, and 
 avarice increased, the pursuit went as deep as art or the power 
 of the time would permit. 
 
 We now descend into the very bowels of the eartli. 
 And seek riches even in the seat of departed spirits. 
 
 Porcelain Clay and Buhr-stone. 
 
 Mr. Thos. Hooson, of Fhnt, in 1816, discovered a very tine 
 quality of Porcelain Clay, at Halkin Mountain; and after- 
 wards formed a company, called the "Welsh company of Nant 
 y Moch," in this neighbourhood, where they erected their 
 works. Mr. W. Bishop, of this firm, obtained the Isis gold 
 medal from the Society of Arts, in 1816, for a paper on the 
 porcelain clay and the buhr-stone at Halkin Mountain, by 
 which the clay appears to be quite equal in quality to that 
 made use of in the Staffordshire potteries, and not inferior to 
 
 D
 
 38 A RAILAVAY COMPANIOX 
 
 that of China; while the buhr is stated to be equal, and in 
 some instances superior to those of France. The company has 
 lone; ago disappeared, but the clay and stone still continue, 
 and only require some spirited company to make them a very 
 profitable concern. 
 
 On a gentle elevation, close to Flint, is the ancient and re- 
 spectable family house of Cornist, the seat of Mr. Ellis, which 
 has a good effect from this part of the line. — The next place is 
 
 FLINT STATION. 
 
 This station is situated in the centre of the town, which is 
 a seaport, a market town, and one of the contributory boroughs 
 which sends a member to parliament. 
 
 Extensive collieries are carried on hei-e by the Messrs. Eyton 
 & Co. which give employment to 800 men; about 150 tons of 
 coal are raised weekly. Tramroads have been constructed to 
 convey the coals to the wharf, whence it is sent to Liverpool, 
 Ireland, and various parts of North Wales. 
 
 The government of the town is vested in a mayor, aldermen, 
 and town council. A beautiful new church has lately been 
 built; the living is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the bishop 
 of St. Asaph ; the services are alternately Welsh and English 
 every other Sunday. There are also dissenting places of 
 worship, both Welsh and English. 
 
 The principal inns are the Royal Oak and Ship, where every 
 attention and accommodation is afforded. 
 
 The CastltK. 
 
 The ruins of this fortress are seen on the right beyond the 
 County Gaol, and are situated on a rock which jets out towards 
 the sea; formerly the channel of the Dee ran immediately 
 under the base of its towers; and even now, at high water, the 
 waves wash its walls. A large portion of the ruins fell in the 
 month of May, 1848. 
 
 Edward I. at Flint. 
 
 Edward the First resided here in 1278, and in 1281, he 
 issued an order for the custody of the gate, when the constable, 
 as the governor, was appointed, with an annual salary of £10. 
 The same year Prince Llywelyn and his brother David, wearied 
 by a long series of oppression, took this castle by surprise. — 
 Carters England, vol. 2.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 39 
 
 In 1290, an order was issued for repairing this fortress; and 
 in 1311, "the infatuated" and impotent Edward the Second 
 received the haughty but insidious favourite, Piers Gaveston, 
 who, a little before, was banished from this country for his ill 
 deeds. In 1333, Edward made a grant of the castle to his son, 
 the Black Prince, and his heirs the kings of England. 
 
 Two years afterwards, 1335, the Black Prince was ordered, 
 as Earl of Chester, to take into custody the castle of Flint, and 
 furnish it with men and provisions. 
 
 Richard II. Prisoner at this Castle. 
 
 Eichard the Second, in 1385, granted this fortress, together 
 with the chief justiciary of Chester, to the infamous Robert 
 Vere, Earl of Oxford. I'ourteen years afterwards it was sur- 
 rendered to Percy, Earl of Northumberland, who basely deserted 
 and treacherously inveigled his sovereign. In this " dolorous 
 castell," as Hall styles it, was deposed the unfortunate, because 
 inefficient, monarch, Richard the Second. Through the hypo- 
 critical management of Percy, he was betrayed and put under 
 the power of his rival Bolingbroke, who insidiously intimated 
 that he only wanted an interview with the monarch for two 
 exclusive purposes, which were, to give the nation a parlia- 
 ment, and to have his own land restored to him. The King 
 was basely deserted by Percy at Penmaen Rhos, who caused his 
 royal prisoner to stop at Rhuddlan for refreshment, and con- 
 veyed him with promptitude that evening to the castle of Fhnt. 
 
 The Duke of Lancaster here. — His cruel Conduct 
 TO Richard II. 
 
 The following morning Richard was greatly astonished at 
 seeing a numerous army marching along the beach, and com- 
 manded by his rival the Duke of Lancaster, who, after sur- 
 rounding the castle, received the King with that mock appear- 
 ance of respect which can only be necessary when the last act 
 of cruelty is to be completed. After dinner the King came 
 down from the keep to meet Bolingbroke, who, on the appear- 
 ance of his sovereign, fell on his knees, with his cap in his 
 hand ; this ceremony he repeated, and for some time assumed 
 a dutiful and respectful conduct. The King, on seeing this 
 apparent act of submission, took off his hood, and spoke first: 
 " Fair cousin of Lancaster, you are right welcome." The 
 Duke, who was still bowing, said, " My liege lord, I am coma
 
 40 A RAILAVAY COJLPitSlON 
 
 before you sent for me, the reason why I will shew yoti ; the 
 common fame among our people is such, that ye have for the 
 space of twenty years ruled them very rigorously, but if it please 
 our lord, I will help you to govern better." Then the King 
 answered and said, " Sith it pleases you, it pleases me much." 
 The Duke immediately threw off the mask, and adding insolence 
 to infamy, " with a high sharp voice, badde bring forth the 
 King's horses ; and then two little naggs, not worth forty francs, 
 were brought forth." The King was set on the one, and the 
 Earl of Salisbury on the other, and thus the Duke brought the 
 King from Flint to Chester, where he was delivered to the Duke 
 of Gloucester's son, who led him straight to the castle. — 
 Stovjes Annals. 
 
 Henry the Sixth, in 1422, granted to his mother, lady 
 Catherine, Queen of England, the crown fees of several villages 
 and fortresses; among the rest she had the fees of the castle 
 and town of Flint, then worth £46 3s. 4d. per annum. 
 
 From this period nothing appeal's in any of our historic 
 records respecting this fortress, until the civil wars in the reign 
 of Charles the First, when this county took an active part in 
 behalf of royalty. 
 
 Sir Roger Mostyn, Governor. — The Castle Besieged. 
 
 Sir Eoger Mostyn was one of the first that took up arms in 
 defence of his sovereign, against the rebellion of his subjects; 
 he was appointed governor of Flint castle, and after repairing 
 and putting it in a defensible state, at his own expense, he gar- 
 risoned the same for the King. Whitelock, in his memoirs, 
 makes this honourable mention of Sir Eoger: — " This Colonel 
 Mostyn is my sistei-'s son, a gentleman of good parts and mettle, 
 of a very ancient family, large possessions, and great interest in 
 that county; so that in twelve hours he raised 1,500 men for 
 the King !" With these forces he took the castle of Hawarden, 
 and afterward marched with his regiment into the city of 
 Chester, then besieged by the rebel forces : but, we may add, 
 like many others who joined their sovereign at that time, Sir 
 Eoger Mostyn suffered such privations as displayed much more 
 real patriotism than ever was exhibited on the parliamentary 
 side; however justifiable the right of resistance might have 
 boen on one part, or corrupt the system of the existing govern- 
 ment on the other. 
 
 This castle was besieged in 1643, under the command of Sir
 
 FROM CllESTKK TO HOLYHEAD; 4 1 
 
 William Brereton, and Sir Thomas Myddleton, but was nobly 
 and ably defended by Sir Roger Mostyn, during a long siege of 
 great hardships. 
 
 In 1645, it was retaken by the royahsts; in 1646, it was 
 surrendered to General Mytton, and the following year ordered 
 to be dismantled; the present governor is the honourable 
 Thomas Pryce Lloyd. 
 
 Quitting the station, the line is carried over Flint Marsh by 
 an embankment. 
 
 Henry II. again defeated and the Standard Bearkf. 
 OF England seized with a panic. 
 
 On the left is Coleshill, where our gallant countryman, Owen 
 Gwynedd, met Henry II. a second time, when the latter was 
 again defeated; and Eustace Fitz John and Robert de Courci, 
 two of his barons, high in rank and courage, were slain ; Henry 
 de Essex, standard-bearer of England, was also " seized with 
 a panic;" he threw the standard down, and with vehemence 
 cried out, " the king is slain !" The alarm flew with electrical 
 rapidity through the English ranks; and the Welsh, profiting 
 by this incident, defeated the enemy. Henry, finding himself 
 unable to accomplish his favourite design of conquering Wales, 
 was compelled to abandon an enterprise by which he gained 
 neither glory to himself nor any profitable possessions for his 
 kingdom. — From hence we proceed to 
 
 BAGILLT. 
 
 This town has of late years become a place of great impor- 
 tance, in consequence of several very extensive collieries and 
 lead-works which have been established here. The dark 
 columns of smoke, rising high into the heavens and then 
 spreading a sable cloud through a vast expanse, indicate the 
 large trade transacted here. Nearly all the lead ore produced 
 in North Wales, and considerable quantities from South Wales, 
 Isle of Man, and Ireland, is brought here for smelting, and is 
 manufactured into different useful articles of trade, and shipped 
 to various parts of the kingdom. The Flintshire lead ore 
 markets are held alternately at Flint and Holywell, every fort- 
 night, and whole cargoes are invariably sold a day or two after 
 their arrival in the Dee. These lead markets are considered 
 the largest in Great Britain, and it is acknowledged that the 
 Flintshire smelters manufactui'e more than one-fourth of the
 
 42 A RAILAVAY COMPANION 
 
 lead made in the united kingdom, the average of which is 
 50,000 tons annually. These -works give employment to 
 several thousands of industrious labourers and artizans. The 
 following are the principal fii-ms that carry on these works : Sir 
 E. S. Walker & Co., Thomas Mather & Co., Newton, Lyon, & 
 Co., J. P. Eyton, Esq., &c. A handsome new church, with a 
 large school -house, have lately been erected here; also, several 
 very large dissenting chapels, all of which are generally filled 
 with anxious hearers. 
 
 One of the eminences above Bagillt is called Bryn Dychwe- 
 Iwch (the hill of retreat), where the patriotic Owen Gwynedd 
 sounded his retreat while pursued with superior numbers by 
 Henry the Second. The thickly populated and widely spread 
 Aallage of Bagillt extends for about two miles. If the atmo- 
 sphere is clear, the Cheshire shore, including the healthily 
 situated towns of Neston, Parkgate, and even Hoylake, are 
 seen to the best advantage. 
 
 On a rising ground on the left, surrounded with tall syca- 
 mores and ancient oak,* are seen the 
 
 Ruins of Basingwerk Abbey. 
 
 Hail, mouldering arches of yon revered pile. 
 That seem in age's hoary vest to shine ; 
 All hail ! for here creative fancy reads 
 Of ages past the long forgotten deeds. 
 
 This venerable ruin is beautifully situated just above the road, 
 and commands an extensive view of the river Dee, Hilbree 
 Island, and Parkgate. The scanty ruins left are scarcely suffi- 
 cient to shew of what form the abbey has formerly been. The 
 refectory, however, is less dilapidated; it has on one side a 
 great recess with two Saxon arches ; above were the cells for 
 the lodgings of the monks, with a small window to each. The 
 chapel of knights templars, founded here by Henry the Second, 
 is spacious and elegant. The architecture is mixed, being 
 partly Saxon and partly Gothic; the round arches and short 
 massy columns shewing the Saxon, and the narrow pointed 
 windows the Gothic parts. According to Dugdale and Tanner, 
 this abbey was founded by Kandulph, earl of Chester, 1131. 
 
 * The ' Abbot's oak ' at Basingwerk Abbey, which was held in 
 great veneration, was blown down on Wednesday 26th of January, 
 1842. It was supposed to be upwards of six hundred years old. 
 The trunk of this " fine old oak " was carried to Talacre, the seat 
 of Sir Pyers Mostyn, where it is now to be seen.
 
 FROM CHESTKR TO TIOLYFIEAO. Aj 
 
 Near this spot was the termination of Oflfa's Dyke, an en- 
 trenchment cast up bv a Saxon king of that name, to defend 
 EngLand from the incursions of the Welsh. It extended 
 through Herefordshire, Shropshire, Montgomeryshire, Denbigh- 
 shire, and FHntshire; was carried over i-ivers, rocks, mountains, 
 and valleys, for nearly one hundred miles, reaching from the 
 Wye to the Dee. 
 
 The extensive zinc woi'ks on the left were erected by the late 
 celebrated Mr. Crockford, of St. James-street notoriety. The 
 works on the hill behind are ]\Ir. C. Steven's paper-mills. The 
 quality and colour of the printing paper manufactured here is 
 considered very good, and is well known to the London and 
 Dublin dealers, where a great quantity is annually sent. Tlie 
 railway will be a great desideratum to this and other manu- 
 factories on the coast. — The next place we arrive at is 
 
 HOLYWELL STATION. 
 
 This station (as in fact is the case with all of them) is ad- 
 mirably contrived for the convenience of the public and the 
 protection of the shareholders. It was built by Mr. Thomas 
 Hughes, of Liverpool, who also contracted for the whole of the 
 stations from Queen's Ferry to Aber. They are all finished in 
 a workmanlike manner, and do infinite credit to our country- 
 man. 
 
 The populous and important town of Holywell is situated 
 about a mile from the station. It is built on the declivity of a 
 hill, which gradually extends to Greenfield, the surrounding 
 hill forming a kind of amphitheatre. Holywell ranks among 
 the first towns in Wales, in a commercial point of view. It 
 owes its origin and its name to its far-famed well, whose well- 
 known stream a few years ago was made available to turn the 
 machinery of eleven different extensive mills and manufactories, 
 which gave employment to thousands of industrious artizans. 
 The Paris ]\Iine Company and the Greenfield Copper and Brass 
 Company employed nearly forty vessels of from 30 to 40 tons 
 burden each, to carry materials from Anglesea, and the several 
 manufactured goods to and from Liverpool and other places; 
 while the Cotton and Twist Company, with their four large 
 mills, contributed very considerably to the general interests o{ 
 the town. 
 
 We know of no place in North Wales so conveniently situated 
 for business of every description as Holywell ; and it is to be
 
 -r4 A RAILVt'AY COMPANION 
 
 hoped that the facilities offered by the Chester atid Holyhead 
 railway will induce parties to locate here. The stream is still 
 as strong as ever; and only requires spirited and energetic 
 individuals to set the mills and manufactories in motion again. 
 The town is spacious, many of the houses are good, and give it 
 an air of considerable opulence. It has several hotels and inns; 
 the "Wliite Horse, and King's Head, are the best. The market 
 is held on Friday, and is supposed to be one of the largest and 
 best in Wales. The neighbourhood is enlivened with several 
 very respectable gentlemen's seats. We would particularly 
 recommend strangers to visit 
 
 St. Winifrede's Well, 
 
 Which is one of the most extraordinary and powerful springs 
 in the kingdom, and is enumerated as one of the " seven 
 wonders of Wales." The well is approached by a flight ot 
 steps, descending to a beautiful polygonal fountain, six feet 
 deep. The water is so clear that a pin may be seen at the 
 bottom, and is considered to be possessed of medicinal qualities. 
 The basin is calculated to contain about 249 tons of water, which 
 when emptied is filled again in less than two minutes ! This 
 experiment was tried on the 12th of July, 1731, by Dr. Taylor 
 and several other persons, which proves that the spring then 
 raised more than 100 tons of a water in a minute ! Our famed 
 historian, Mr. Pennant, however, underrates this calculation; 
 he says that by two different trials made for his information, it 
 was found to force out about 21 tons of water in a minute. It 
 never freezes, and scarcely ever varies in quantity either from 
 continued droughts or after the greatest rains. 
 
 This well is twelve feet by seven in width, surrounded by a 
 stone wall, with pillars supporting the roof, forming a walk all 
 round. The roof of this elegant Gothic building is beautifully 
 carved vdth the legend of St. Winifrede, and sculptures allud- 
 ing to the house of Stanley, by the members of which, both it 
 and the chapel above were erected in the reign of Henry the 
 Seventh. 
 
 As a cold bath, perhaps, it is unequalled. Small cabins are 
 built for the convenience of persons wishing to bathe, for which 
 purpose parties are always at hand Avith bathing dresses, and 
 drinking glasses for those whose curiosity may induce them to 
 taste this pure and wholesome beverage.
 
 FROM CHESTEU TO HOl-YHEAD. 45 
 
 Pope ]\Iartiii the Fifth, in the time of Henry tlie Fifth, en- 
 couraged pilgrims to frequent this fountain, and furnished the 
 abbey of Basingwerk with pardons and indulgences, to sell to 
 the devotees frequenting it : these privileges were renewed in 
 the reign of queen Mary. 
 
 Royal Visits to the Well. 
 
 King James the Second visited this well in 1686, where he 
 healed a number of people who were suffering from the malady 
 of the king's evil. In 1819, it was visited by the King of 
 Belgium, (then Prince Leopold) accompanied by Earl Grosvenor, 
 &c. In 1828 it was visited by his Royal Highness the Duke 
 of Susses, and the Duke and Duchess of St. Albans. And in 
 1829 by the Duke de Chartres and suite. The " Legendary 
 Life and Miracles of St. Winefrede," may be seen in Pennant's 
 Wales, vol. 1, p. 44. 
 
 Greenfield Hall, the seat of Ralph Richardson, Esq. is seen 
 on the left, opposite the station; quitting which, the line passes 
 over a large portion of land reclaimed from the sea. At the 
 end of two miles, on the left, is the ancient smelting-house of 
 Llanerch-y-mor on a gentle declivity, above which tJie worthy 
 proprietor, J. P. Eytou, Esq. has built a house in the Eliza- 
 bethian style, which commands a beautiful view of the sea and 
 the hundred of WiiTal in Cheshire. A little further on, enve- 
 loped in wood, but not in sight of the railway, is 
 
 Downing, 
 
 the seat of Lord Fielding, which he possesses by marriage to 
 the heiress, !Miss Pennant, grand-daughter to our countryman, 
 the celebrated naturalist and historian, Thomas Pennant, Esq., 
 to whose indefatigable researches the natural history and topo- 
 graphy of Great Britain are under so many obligations. The 
 mansion was erected about the year 1627, in the form of a 
 Roman H. On the front is this pious motto — " Heb Dduw, 
 heb ddim; a Duw a digon" (without God, without all; God 
 and enough.) The house is a handsome building, pleasantly 
 situated; and the interior is extremely rich in specimens of 
 natural history of every class, original paintings, drawings, and 
 prints. The library contains a collection of the most valuable 
 and curious books in every branch of literature, besides several 
 volumes of manuscripts, enriched in the most co.stly manner 
 with illustrations, decorations, &c. by Moses Griffith, an un-
 
 46 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 taught genius from the adjoining parish of Whitford, who 
 accompanied Mr. Pennant in all his tours. 
 
 The views are extremely pleasing and animated, particularly 
 towards the sea, where numerous fleets are seen entering into 
 and sailing out of the port of Liverpool. — The next object that 
 presents itself is 
 
 Christ Church, Mostyx Quay. 
 
 This beautifully situated church was built in 1845, by the 
 munificence of the two ancient families of Mostyn of Mostyn, 
 and Pennant of Downing, as an additional accommodation to 
 the extensive and thickly populated parish of Whitford. It is 
 erected on a delightful rural eminence above the estuary of the 
 Dee. and contains a nave and chancel ; it is admirable in its 
 proportion, and correct in its details. We have no hesitation in 
 staling that it is one of the prettiest churches in the Principa- 
 lity, as regards style, proportion, and situation; and does infinite 
 credit to the ai-chitect, A. Poynter, Esq. London, hon. secretary 
 to the Poyal Institution of British Architects. 
 
 MOSTYN QUAY AND STATION. 
 
 This of late years has become a place of great importance. A 
 powerful steam-packet plies between here and Liverpool, wliich 
 conveys to and fro a vast number of passengers and a consider • 
 able quantity of goods at a cheap rate, and is a great accommo- 
 dation to this part of Wales. The collieries here have been 
 discovered since the time of Edward the First, and are in a very 
 flourishing state. There are three or four pits, producing upon 
 an average about 70,000 tons annually. These are considered 
 the most extensive works in all the coal-fields of Flintshire, 
 which extend from east to west about twenty miles. 
 
 The burnt rock near Mostyn collieries exhibits a very curious 
 phenomenon in nature, and presents a very singular appearance. 
 Fine specimens of this rock may be seen in the much-admired 
 grottoes and gardens of Mr. LI. Jones, the polite landlord of 
 the Mostyn Arms Hotel, where every accommodation may be 
 had at a very moderate price. This is a place of great resort, 
 by passengers to and from Liverpool. The packet crosses from 
 here in two houi'S. 
 
 About half a mile on the left, surrounded with an extensive 
 and beautifully varied park, covered with a forest of ancient 
 timber, and plentifully supplied with well-fed deer, is situated 
 the venerable mansion of
 
 FKOM CHESTER TO Iini-YIIEAD. 47 
 
 MOSTYN Hai.L, 
 
 the ancient residence of the oldest family in Wales. The pre- 
 sent proprietor is the Hon. E. M. LI. Mostyn, the worthy and 
 deservedly popular member for the county, whose patriotism, 
 hospitality, and kindness, is well known throughout the Prin- 
 cipality. The old mansion is supposed to have been built as 
 early as the time of Henry the Sixth; and at one time resembled 
 the one at Boulton-in-Bowland, which is very magnificent, and 
 supposed to be the most ancient in Great Britain. But, in 
 consequence of the increased number of the family, the hon. 
 gentleman has been obliged to make considerable additions 
 and alterations, purely in the Elizabethian style of building, 
 under the superintendence of that able architect, Jlr. Poynter, 
 of London, and when finished, will be one of the most complete 
 and comfortable mansions of that style in the kingdom; it is 
 well worthy the attention of the tourist and antiquary. In the 
 spacious old hall are several specimens of armour and imple- 
 ments of warfare, previous to the introduction of fire arms. 
 The rooms are literally covered with family portraits by the old 
 masters, the principal of which are Sir Roger and Lady Mostyn ; 
 there are sevei-al fine portraits by Vandyke and other celebrated 
 masters. The tapestry in Lady Harriet's room was worked by 
 the nuns, and is exceedingly antique and beautiful. 
 
 Narrow Escape of the Earl of Richmond, after- 
 wards Henry VIL 
 
 During the time that Henry Earl of Riclimond, was secretly 
 arranging the overthrow of the house of York, he passed con- 
 cealed from place to place, in order to form an interest among 
 the Welsh, who favoured his cause on account of their respect 
 to his grandfather, Owen Tudor, their countryman. While at 
 Mostyn, a party, attached to Richard the Third, arrived there 
 to apprehend him ; he was then about to dine, but had just 
 time to leap out of a back window, and make his escape 
 through a hole, which is to this day called the " King's window." 
 
 Tradition informs us that the following colloquy took place 
 here between the leader of King Richard's party and the then 
 Lord of Mostyn. On his entrance to the dining-room, the 
 stranger said, " My lord, we have come here in quest of Henry 
 Earl of Richmond, who, we are informed, is now staying with 
 you." " Your information is not correct," answered the worthy
 
 48 A KAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 host, " for he has left here." Looking round, and perceiving 
 the family ready to sit down to dinner, the stranger observed, 
 " How is this, my lord? I see you have more knives aud forks 
 laid on your table than you have company to dinner." " It is 
 always my custom," replied his lordship, " to have an extra 
 knife and fork on my table, in case a friend should drop in; 
 and as I cannot look upon you in any other light, I shall be 
 happy if you will sit down along with us, and make use of 
 them." Whether the stranger did so or otherwise, " further 
 the deponent knoweth not;" but we have occasion to know that 
 the good old-fashioned way of providing an extra knife aud 
 fork for a friend is still observed by this ancient family at this 
 their hospitable house. 
 
 iLLUMmATED MSS. 
 
 There are several very curious objects of antiquity at Mos- 
 tyn. Speaking of the library, Mr. Pennant, our famed historian, 
 says, "Few if any can boast of such numbers of MSS. or of 
 such beauty ; of the first, especially the illuminated ; aud I 
 suspect that the number, rarity, and value of the ancient clas- 
 sics, medallic histories, gems, and variety of every species of 
 poHte literature, is without parallel." To these antique gems, 
 the hon. proprietor of Mostyn has added the celebrated old 
 library from Gloddaeth, consisting chiefly of old English history, 
 and very valuable Welsh MSS. collected by his great grand- 
 father ; a catalogue of which the writer recently had the great 
 pleasure of compiling. 
 
 The visitor at Mostyn should not forget to ask to see the 
 golden torque, which was a badge of military honour, and for- 
 merly wore by the Princes of Wales ; the silver harp, presented 
 to William Mostyn, Esq. by Queen Elizabeth; and the pedigree 
 of the family of this time-honoured house. It was drawn by 
 the celebrated Eandle Holme, Chester herald. This antique 
 document is no less than forty-two feet in length, which, after 
 passing through the British and Saxon race of monarchs, pur- 
 sues its progress through the kings of Israel, reaches Noah 
 and the ark, and finishes with Adam and Eve ! The present 
 possessor is descended from this long line of British worthies, 
 and speaks the language of his sires with fluency and ease. 
 
 The Mostyn Testi:monial. 
 The numerotis friends and admirers of the hon Mr. Mostyn 
 presented that gentleman with a splendid piece of plate in the
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 49 
 
 shape of a candelabrum, in testimony of the high regard they 
 entertained towards him — as an enlightened and liberal states- 
 man, a kind and considerate landlord, and for his generous, 
 humane, and sterling value as a country gentleman. tFpwards 
 of £1100 was subscribed on the occasion, a sum far exceeding 
 in amount all others of a similar character in this part of the 
 country. The presentation took place on the 31st of October, 
 1843, in front of the old mansion, amidst the acclamations and 
 joy of several thousand spectators; after which, the honorable 
 gentleman invited his friends to a splendid repast, which had 
 been provided for the occasion. The tables were laid in the old 
 baronial hall for upwards of 300 guests. The evening was 
 spent with great hilarity ; and the day will not easily be effaced 
 from the memory of the Mostyn family, nor their numerous 
 friends who attended on that occasion. As for ourselves, we 
 can sincerely say — 
 
 "We ne'er shall see the like again." 
 
 The Mostyn testimonial is a massy silver fabric, four feet 
 four inches in height, weighing upwards of seventeen hundred 
 and fifty ounces, or nearly one hundred and fifty pounds of the 
 purest silver; and is accompanied with an exquisitely wrought 
 silver frame, on which are engraven the names of the sub- 
 scribers. 
 
 Before we leave Mostyn, it is but right to say that it is one 
 of the few ancestral mansions in Wales where the ancient baro- 
 nial hospitality is still kept up with undiminished liberality. 
 The stranger who passes the threshold of the munificent pro- 
 prietor would be considered most uncourteous should he refuse 
 to partake of the cup and viands which are ever ready on the 
 table, and which are offered with every demonstration of wel- 
 comeness. 
 
 Quittina: Mostyn Station, the carriages now traverse over 
 Gwespyr Marsh. In the year 1811, the late Sir Pyers Mostyn 
 obtained an act of parliament to enable him to inclose upwards 
 of nine hundred acres of land from the sea. The embankment 
 which secured this rich tract of land was made under the super- 
 intendance of Mr. Wedge, of Sealand, the respected agent of 
 the River Dee Company. 
 
 There are two beds of coal under this marsh, each upwards 
 of two yards thick, at the depth of sixty yards. It was
 
 50 A RAILWAY COMP.VNIOX 
 
 discovered by the late Sir Edward Mostyn, a few years ago. 
 No further trials have since been made. 
 
 On the right, nearly in the centre of the estuary of the Dee, 
 and opposite to the extremity of the peninsula of Wirral is 
 situated 
 
 HiLBREE Island, 
 
 This island contains about ten statute acres, six of which 
 are pasture, and four rock. On the highest part of it is the 
 telegraph station, to communicate intelligence of the arrival 
 and departure of vessels between Liverpool and Holyhead. 
 Although this place is above twenty miles from Chester, it is 
 in the parish of St. Oswald, in that city. This connexion is 
 to be attributed to the circumstance of its having belonged to 
 the abbot and convent of St. Werburgh, who established here a 
 small cell of monks, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. " Thither," 
 says Hollingshead, " went a sort of superstitious fools in pil- 
 grimage to our ladye of Hilbre, by whose offerings the monks 
 were cherished and sustained." Henry Bradshaw, in his life 
 of St. Werbm-gh, relates a legendary story of the sands at 
 Hilbree becoming miraculously dry, by the interposition of that 
 saint for the purpose of affording a passage to the army of W. 
 Fitz-Nigel, constable of Chester, then on his march to the res- 
 cue of Richard, Earl of Chester, who had been waylaid by the 
 Welsh at Basingwerk, on his return from a pilgrimage to St. 
 Winifrede's well. The tale concludes thus — 
 
 And where the host passed over betwixt bandes, 
 To this day ben called the Constable's Sandes, 
 
 In the same direction as Hilbree Island, is Hoylake, the 
 extreme point of the peninsula of Wirral, in Cheshire. King 
 WiUiam the Third and his army embarked here for Ireland, on 
 the nth of June, 1690, being considered at that time the best 
 place for the purpose. — On the right are seen, close to the 
 shore, the 
 
 Point of Air Lighthouses. 
 
 A new iron lighthouse has recently been erected here, upon 
 ,^and banks ! It stands further off than the old one, at the 
 mouth of the Dee, on quaggy sand, within an hundred yards of 
 tlie channel, where the tide rises about twenty feet. This most 
 necessary Pharos will annually save a multitude of lives and 
 property. It was built by the corporation of the Trinity-house,
 
 FROM CHKSTKR TO HOLVUEAD 51 
 
 from the design of Messrs. Walker & Bnrges, engineers, Lon- 
 don. It rises upon nine strong iron pillars, firmly screwed in 
 their unstable foundation. It has every possible convenienco 
 for the light-keepers, and exhibits a most brilliant white light, 
 fifty-five feet above the ordinary level of the sea, up the Dee 
 towards Chester, and to the west, as far as Point Lynus, in 
 Anglesea: and a red light towards Hoyle Bank. The building 
 is entirely constructed of iron : the principal framing and pil- 
 lars are of cast iron. The lantern framing is cast from one of 
 the brass guns recovered from the wreck of the Eoyal George 
 at Spithead. The entire weight of metal employed in the con- 
 struction of the lighthouse and lantern exceeds 120 tons. The 
 interior of the building above the reach of the waves affords 
 ample accommodation for two light-keepers. 
 
 The ground we traverse over now is in the parish of 
 
 L LAN ASA, 
 
 The well-known and much-respected vicar of which is our old 
 and venerable friend, the Rev. Henry Parry, whom the late Mr. 
 Pennant, the historian, speaks of in his Tour in Wales : — " Mr. 
 Parry is an amiable and cheerful companion, endowed with 
 much knowledge of the history of his country, and much clas- 
 sical learning; one who, by his mirthful turn and innocent 
 conviviality, often soothed the waning evening of my life." 
 
 The village of Gwesper is seen on the hill to the le(t. The 
 quality of the freestone quarries here is in great repute, and 
 they are worked to some extent. The stone is manufactured 
 into several useful articles. The splendid custom-house at 
 Liverpool was built of stone from these quarries. They are 
 the property of Sir P. Mostyn, hart. 
 
 On a gentle eminence, surrounded and sheltered with trees, 
 is the much-admired mansion of 
 
 Talacre, 
 
 The elegant and stately residence of Sir Pyers ^lostyn, bart., 
 a branch of the family of the Mostyns of Mostyn. The old 
 house was built in the time of James the First; but when the 
 late bafonet came to the possession of the estate, it was razed 
 to the ground, for the purpose of building another mansion on 
 its site ; the first stone of which was laid by the late Sir Edw. 
 Mostyn, on the 30th of July, 1824: when the shell was com- 
 pleted, the wing part was burnt down by an accidental fire on
 
 62 A RAILAVAY C'OMrANION^ 
 
 the 11th Sept. 1827; but, phoenix-like, it soon rose again from 
 its ashes, and was finished in a magnificent style. The house 
 is very handsome, being built of smooth free stone procured 
 from the adjoining quarries. It has two fronts, and commands 
 splendid views of the sea, and the numerous vessels which glide 
 on the vasty deep to and from Liverpool add considerably to 
 the sight. The house is built m the old English style, after a 
 design by the late Thomas Harrison, Esq. of Chester. 
 
 The village on the hill is Gronant; above which is the 
 observatory belonging to Edward j\Iorgan, Esq. of the ancient 
 house of Goldengrove. A little further on is another of the 
 telegraph stations. On the right, close to the shore, is the life- 
 boat house. This humane estabhshment is admirably super- 
 intended by our old friend, John Dawson, Esq. — The carriages 
 now traverse over 
 
 Gronast Moor. 
 
 Curioiia Tradition of the Encro(tchment of the Sea. — There 
 is a tradition that its extent was so great, that the people on 
 this side could hold conversation over the channel with those 
 of Cheshire. This may be exaggerated ; but, from authentic 
 records it appears, that this flat was formerly very extensive 
 and that it had been reduced to its pi-esent scanty limits by 
 the fury of the sea, which still possesses its ancient place. 
 Previous to that catastrophe, it was possessed by the see of St. 
 Asaph, by virtue of a grant made by Edward the Black Prince, 
 son of Edward the Third, to Llywelyn ap Madoc, elected bishop 
 of St. Asaph in 13.57. The itmndation happened before the 
 reign of Henry the Fifth. Previous to that time, the bishop 
 paid annually to the exchequer at Chester, as an acknowledg- 
 ment, the sum of twenty marks; but Henry the Fifth in 1414, 
 and Henry the Sixth in 1445 and 14.50, in consideration of the 
 misfortune, released the see from that rent.* If this record 
 did not fetain an inconsiderable proof of the ravages of the 
 ocean on this part of the country, there exists other natural 
 ones that would give reasonable grounds for suspicion. The 
 Hoyle Sands, which run for 12 or 14 miles parallel to the nar- 
 row hundred of Wirral in Cheshire, and divided from Wales by 
 a narrow channel, were once, in all probability, part of the 
 firm land of England. See an account of a similar probable 
 
 * Willis's St. Asaph, p. 55, and appendix 31 and 32.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD, 53 
 
 inundation in tlie parish of Abergele, which we shall hereafter 
 refer to in its proper place. 
 
 The vitriol works, on the right, are carried on by a party 
 from Liverpool. 
 
 About two miles from Talacre, on an elevated spot in a mea- 
 dow near Prestatyn mill, is the site of Prestatyn Castle. No- 
 thing more than an elevated space, with foundations of stone 
 and mortar, and a foss at some distance, remain of this ancient 
 fortress. — On approaching 
 
 PRESTATYN STATION, 
 
 The flat becomes extremely fertile in com, especially wheat, 
 which is of distinguished excellence, and continues equally 
 noted through all the flat tract as far as Rhuddlan, and along 
 the coast beyond Abergele. — We pass the village of Melidan, 
 with its rural church, on the left : close to which, under a bold 
 and time-hallowed rock of primitive characteristics, is situated 
 the celebrated 
 
 T^VLARGocH Lead mines, 
 
 long recognised as having produced more lead ore than any 
 other mine in the county during the last century. The quan- 
 tity of ore raised here averages upwards of 3000 tons annually ! 
 This place gives employment to a vast number of industrious 
 men. — Close to which are the ruins of 
 
 Dyserth Castle. 
 This ancient castle, now in ruins, was probably a fortress 
 originally built by the ancient Britons, before the invasion of 
 their country by Edward the First, as the foundation cannot be 
 traced. It has gone by the names of Din-colyn, Castell y 
 Ffailon, and Castell Cerri, and was probably the last of the 
 chain of British posts on the Chvydian hills. Henry the Third 
 in 1241, fortified it, but its date was but short, for in 1261, 
 Llywelyn ap Gryffydd rased both this castle and that of Deg- 
 anwy. It was at a siege at this place that Einion, the son of 
 Ririd Flaidd was slain. A cross was erected on the spot, called 
 Croes Einion, the shaft of which, ornamented with strange 
 sculpture, is now supposed to form the stile into the church- 
 yard at Dyserth, in which is another cross of curious worlcman- 
 ship. In a field near the castle is a ruinous building, called 
 
 SiAMBER Wen. 
 This is said to have been the seat of Sir Robert Pounderling, 
 
 E
 
 54 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 constable of the adjacent castle, a knight valiant and prudent, 
 who had one of his eyes knocked out by a gentleman of Wales, 
 in the rough sport of tournament; but being requested to 
 challenge him again to feats of arms, on meeting the Welsh 
 gentleman at the English court, declined the combat, declaring 
 that he did not intend the man should beat out his other eye ! 
 About a mile from Dyserth, situate in the forest of fine tim- 
 ber, we pass 
 
 BODRYDDAN, 
 
 The ancient seat of the Conways, now represented by William 
 Shipley Conway, Esq. This was formerly the residence of the 
 enlightened and much-respected Dr. Shipley, dean of St. 
 Asaph, whose sister married the late illustrious Cambrian, Sir 
 WiUiam Jones, the celebrated linguist, and chief justice of 
 Bengal. His son, col. Shipley, married a sister of the late Sir 
 Watkin Williams Wynn, hart, and his daughter gave her hand 
 to the revered and amiable divine. Dr. Heber, bishop of 
 Calcutta, who died there in the course of his laborious duties 
 in evangelising the heathen. — The carriages now approach 
 
 RHYL STATION. 
 
 This is a healthy spot, and the railway bids fair to be a power- 
 ful remedial agent, in many ailments to which the human 
 frame is subject; and to thousands of the inhabitants of Eng- 
 land, the ride to Ehyl and back two or three times a week, 
 would prove the means of preserving health, and prolonging 
 life more powerful than all the drugs in the apothecaries' hall. 
 Indeed the whole coast of North Wales, extending about 200 
 miles of beautifully varied country, is exceedingly healthy ; the 
 pure air and sea-breeze here, are exhilarating in the extreme. 
 
 This place is justly ranked as the best bathing place in the 
 principality. It has grown during the last few years from a 
 small village to a large and respectable town. The salubrity 
 of the air, the beauty of the scenery, the contiguity of the 
 town to the sea, and the extent and firmness of the sands, 
 render it a place of considerable attraction, and it is accord- 
 ingly patronised by visitors from all parts of the kingdom. 
 
 Rhyl is surrounded by interesting views, of every descrip- 
 tion. On the eastern side are the famed Talargoch mines. 
 The ruins of Dyserth castle and those of Rhuddlan, where 
 Edward the First and his queen resided for two or three years,
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 55 
 
 are objects of cui'iosity, while the suiTounding hills form a 
 natural amphitheatre of beauty and sublimity. Nature as- 
 sumes almost every variety of aspect, from the majestic gran- 
 deur of an alpine district, to the soft beauty of pastoral terri- 
 tory ; thus presenting, within a circle of about ten miles diam- 
 eter, everything that can interest alike the historian, the 
 botanist, the mineralogist, the naturalist, or the antiquary. 
 Rhyl is situated at the entrance of the celebrated vale of 
 Clwyd, a ride through which must be taken, to form a perfect 
 idea of its beauties. The thickly wooded parks and mansions 
 of the following noblemen and gentlemen add considerably to 
 the scene : — Bodryddan, the seat of W. Shipley Conway, Esq. ; 
 Pengwern, the seat of Lord Mostyn; Bodelwyddan, the seat of 
 Sir John Hay Williams, Bart. ; Kinmel Park, the seat of Lord 
 Dinorben ; and Gwrych Castle, the seat of Lloyd Hesketh Bam- 
 ford Hesketh, Esq. ; are well worthy the attention of the tourist. 
 
 Independently of three spacious hotels and a number of inns, 
 there are many respectable lodging-houses capable of accommo- 
 dating a number of strangers ; bathing machines in abundance, 
 hot and cold baths supplied with sea water; to which are 
 attached bilUard and news-rooms, and a spacious bowling-green. 
 A new church has lately been erected here, in which the English 
 service is read every Sunday. Several new chapels have also 
 been erected. Provisions of all kinds are cheap; fish, vegeta- 
 tables, and poultry, are abundantly supplied. 
 
 Cars may be obtained from the inns. Steam packets ply 
 regularly from Rhyl to Liverpool, and occasionally to Bangor 
 and Beaumaris; thus affording visitors an opportunity of see- 
 ing the magnificent scenery of the Welsh coast. The Royal, 
 the Mostyn Arms, and the Bellevue, are the principal hotels. 
 
 On a fine day, providing the atmosphere is clear, you have a 
 fine view up 
 
 The celebrated Vale of Clwyd, 
 
 which extends about twenty miles in length, and about ten in 
 width. It is flanked on both sides with elevated hills. 
 On the left are the well-known range of 
 
 Ancient British Posts, 
 
 which are placed in a line of considerable elevation, called the 
 Clwydian Hills, whose escarpments boldly face towards Eng- 
 land, and form a noble bulwark against an invading foe. Mocl
 
 Ob A RAILWAY COMPAXIOX 
 
 Hiraddug is the first that forms this range of ramparts ; it is 
 conspicuously placed on a very steep and rocky hill, in the 
 parish of Cwm, above the lime-stone quarries. Moel-y-Gaer 
 is in the parish of Bodfari, an old Roman station; and Moel 
 Fammau is situated opposite Ruthin, on the apex of which is 
 the jubilee monument, erected by public subscription in honour 
 of George the Third having reigned fifty years. See page 30. 
 
 About three miles on the left of Rhyl station is the ancient 
 borough town of 
 
 Rhdddlan. 
 
 This place was forraei'ly of great importance and consider- 
 able magnificence. The town lies on the eastern bank of the 
 river Clwyd, about two miles from the influx of the sea. The 
 river here admits at high water of vessels of fifty tons burden 
 up to the bridge, where a good shipping trade is carried on 
 between Chester, Liverpool, and the interior of the country. 
 The church has nothing remarkable about it, except an ancient 
 grave-stone with a cross and flaming sword. Below the town is 
 
 Rhuddlait Castle. 
 
 The ruins of this justly celebrated fortress have a noble and 
 imposing appearance from every point of view ; it is seen from 
 the line, and when approached, the beholder is impressed with 
 awe, especially when he reflects upon the memorable transac- 
 tions which have taken place within its precincts. 
 
 Within these walls vibrated the voice of man, sounding 
 hilarity and grief in their turn. Here the heroic princes of 
 Wales entertained their brave followers, who employed their 
 time in defence of the land of their nativity, every inch of 
 which they disputed with their blood. Beneath these splendid 
 arches resounded the ancient harps of Cymru, which 
 Gave to rapture all their trembling strings. 
 In after time here dwelt ambition, ruling with a rod of iron. 
 Within these walls was practised that well-known fraud by 
 which the haughty Edward deceived our countrymen, in pro- 
 mising them a prince of their " own blood ;" and here it was 
 he held his mock parliament; and imprisoned the last of our 
 princes, where the savage conqueror caused him to lie in 
 chains, and would not grant him a hearing ! Here was one 
 kingdom erased from the list of nations, and another triumphed ; 
 one prince exalted, and another deposed.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 57 
 
 The form of the castle is nearly a square : it has six towers. 
 One is called Twr-y-Brenin, or the King's Tower. The origi- 
 nal founder is said to be prince Llywelyn ap Seisyllt, in 1020. 
 Harold, son of Edwin, earl of Kent, took the castle in 1063, 
 and " burnt it down." It was again restored by the Welsh, 
 and in 1098 it was wrested from them by Robert, nephew to 
 Hugh Lupus, earl of Chester, who received a mandate from 
 William the Conqueror to refortify the place. In 1169 it was 
 attacked by our gallant countrymen, Owen Gwynedd, and his 
 forces : after two months' blockade, they took and dismantled it. 
 
 In 1187, Archbishop Baldwyn staid at this castle when 
 preaching the crusade in Wales. In the year 1128, Randall 
 Blundeville, earl of Chester, was attacked here. During the 
 reign of king John, 1214, it was besieged and taken by Llyw- 
 elyn ap lorwerth. 
 
 Edward I. at Rhuddlan Castle. 
 
 From 1277 to 1284, Edward the First spent a deal of his 
 time here, during which period the castle was rebuilt in its 
 present foi-m, and here was held the parliament in which were 
 passed the " Statutes of Wales." He kept three Christmasses 
 here. It is a fact not generally known that his queen Eleanor, 
 exclusively of the young prince ^Edward, born at Caernarvon, 
 was delivered of a princess here in 1283. This shews that his 
 entire household must have been transfeiTed into Wales, at the 
 time his policy was directed to complete the annexation of the 
 principality of Wales to England. In an ancient record in the 
 tower of London, dated 1281-2, and translated by S. Lysons, 
 Esq., is a curious roll of Edward's expenses when at Rhuddlan. 
 It consists of four sheets, containing the particulars, under 
 proper heads, of the sums of money paid for the maintenance 
 of his household. The amount of the expenses in this roll is 
 £1395. 10s. Od., which sum, with the expenses of the other 
 roll of the queen's household, is £2220. 2s. lO^d. The roll is 
 very curious, but too long to be inserted here. See " Parry's 
 Guide to North Wales." 
 
 David, the last Prince of Wales, imprisoned here. 
 
 After the death of the last Llywelyn and the last slaughter 
 of the Welsh, his brother, prince David, managed to conceal 
 himself and family for some months after, almost famished for
 
 58 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 want of provisions ; in this dilemma, two of his retainers, who 
 are supposed to have been bribed by the English, treacherously 
 delivered their prince to Edward's ambition; and on the night 
 of the 21st June, he sent a detachment of his army and took 
 David and his family in a morass. This prince, with his wife, 
 two sons, and seven daughters, were brought prisoners to 
 Ehuddlan castle, where the king then resided. 
 
 Curious Relics. 
 
 David was examined at Ehuddlan, and several very curious 
 relics were found upon him; among the rest was one called 
 Croesenydd, or a part of the real cross of Christ, highly vene- 
 rated by the princes of Wales, and the crown of the celebrated 
 king Arthur, which, with several other things, were taken from 
 him, and delivered to the king. 
 
 In 1399, Richard the Second dined here on his way to Flint 
 castle. It was occupied by the royalists during the civil wars, 
 and surrendered to general Mytton and the parliamentary 
 forces in 1646: the same year it was dismantled by order of 
 parliament. The present governor is William Shipley Conway, 
 Esq. 
 
 The Black and the New Inn afford very excellent accom- 
 modation. 
 
 About a mile from the castle, situated in the centre of the 
 delightful Vale of Clwyd, and surrounded with a forest of 
 timber, is 
 
 Pengwern, 
 
 The hospitable mansion of Lord Mostyn, built by his lordship's 
 great uncle, the late Sir Edward Lloyd, hart., of whom it was 
 said that he set a noble example to the gentry of Wales, by 
 making extensive plantations on his estates in several parts of 
 Wales, and stimulated others to benefit society by various agri- 
 cultural improvements. His lordship must have imbibed the 
 notions of his worthy ancestor in a very great degree, having 
 carried out his views in every possible way, to an extent far 
 surpassing any other individual in the principality. Pengwern 
 is noted for its hospitality, " and from this door the poor is 
 ne'er sent empty away." In the house are several family por- 
 traits and other paintings by the first artists : here also is a 
 good family library, including several ancient Welsh MSS.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 59 
 
 His lordship is a genuine Welshman, and speaks with flu- 
 ency the language of his country. He is descended from a 
 long list of ancestry, and has his pedigree complete to " March- 
 udd, one of the most ancient of the royal tribes of Wales," 
 who flourished A.D. 800, a date long anterior to the Norman 
 conquest, beyond which none of our English nobility has any 
 claims whatever. His lordship's long and useful career of life, 
 together with his many acts of kindness and condescension, 
 have made him deservedly popular among his countrymen, so 
 much so that in 1840, his numerous friends and admirers pre- 
 sented him with his full-length portrait, in a highly ornamented 
 gilt frame, " in testimony of the high sense entertained by them 
 of his long career of public and parliamentary usefulness, and 
 as a grateful tribute to his private virtues." 
 
 The Hon. Misses Lloyd, his lordships amiable and benevo- 
 lent daughters, are a pattern to the ladies of the principality. 
 These sisters of charity devote the principal portion of their 
 valuable time in visiting, assisting, and administering to the 
 comforts and numerous wants of the poor of the surrounding 
 neighbourhood, not merely at the fashionable time of Christmas 
 alone, but at all seasons throughout the year, for which they 
 receive the well-known and homely benediction of " Benditli 
 Dduw," from the lips of hundreds, which they appreciate above 
 all earthly praise, and verifying the old adage — 
 Band wyth gwell, bendith y gwan. 
 
 Far beyond the amplest store 
 Are the blessings of the poor. 
 
 The next object that presents itself is the cathedral church 
 and steeple of St Asaph, which is two miles further, and may 
 be seen from the railway. 
 
 THE CITY OF ST. ASAPH. 
 
 The city of St. Asaph is situated on a delightful eminence 
 between the streams, and near the confluence of the rivers 
 Elwy and Clwyd, from the former of which is derived its Bri- 
 tish name Llanelwy. The township in which it stands is 
 called Bryn Polin, or Bryn Paulin, from, it is supposed, having 
 been a place of encampment of Paulinus, a Eoman general, on 
 his way to the island of Mona. The see is of very ancient 
 date, having been established as early as the year 543. The 
 principal attraction of this city is the cathedral, which was first
 
 60 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 built of wood. The present structure was erected by bishop 
 Anian about 1284; it was destroyed during the wars of Owen 
 Glyndwr, and afterwards restored and partly built by bishop 
 Eedman, about 1480, with the exception of the choir, which 
 was re-built about 1770, by the dean and chapter, with the 
 funds which are invested in their hands as trustees for that 
 purpose, arising from the tithes of some parishes in Mont- 
 gomeryshire, amounting to £1000 a year. The plan of the 
 church is like most others, cruciform, with a square embattled 
 tower rising from the intersection of the nave and transepts, 
 surrounded by a cemetery kept in excellent order, and pre- 
 served from all improper intrusion by a neat iron railing. The 
 visitor on entering the sacred place will be impressed with the 
 solemnity which pervades the building; the chastened light, 
 entering from the richly painted windows, throws a softened 
 tint over the Gothic stalls and the chequered pavements of the 
 choir, which, to the eye capable of appreciating the beauty of 
 the scene, is highly pleasing and interesting. 
 
 The design of the painted window is said to be a fac simile 
 of the east window at Tintern abbey, but originally from a 
 church in Italy. For full description see " Parry's Guide to 
 North Wales." 
 
 During the unfortunate differences between King Charles the 
 First and his parliament, this cathedral was made a garrison, 
 afterwards used as a hospital, and during the commonwealth 
 it was nearly demolished. 
 
 The Episcopal Palace. 
 
 This ancient palace has recently been re-built by the late 
 charitable bishop, Dr. Carey. The present worthy prelate, Dr. 
 Short, is exceedingly active in performing his important duties, 
 but not being acquainted with the language of the people over 
 whom he is appointed the spiritual overseer, he is debarred 
 from being as useful as he otherwise might have been. Never- 
 theless, we anticipate good results from his lordship's determi- 
 nation of strictly enforcing Christian discipline in the ministry, 
 — of thoroughly reforming the former mode of examining can- 
 didates for holy orders, and more particularly from his indefa- 
 tigable exertions in establishing parochial Sunday schools for 
 the spiritual education of the rising generation. The diocese 
 of St. Asaph comprises the counties of Flint, Denbigh, and 
 Montgomery, containing 121 parish churches, and 106 benefices
 
 FKOM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 61 
 
 in the gift of the bishop. The parish church is at the lower 
 end of the street, close to a fine bridge over the river Elwy. 
 
 The Mostyn Arms and the Ship are the principal inns, where 
 post-chaises and cars may be obtained. The rivers in the 
 neighbourhood are favourite resorts of anglers, and fish are 
 found in great abundance and variety. 
 
 Denbigh is about six miles higher up the vale ; it is the 
 capital of the county, one of the contributory boroughs, and 
 is governed by a mayor, aldermen, and town council, under 
 the general statute. 
 
 The neighbourhood of St. Asaph is studded with a variety 
 of gentlemen's seats. On the right hand side of the vale, 
 may be observed the attractive turrets of 
 
 BODEL^\"YDDAN, 
 
 A modern and elegant castellated mansion, the residence of Sir 
 John Hay Williams, hart. It has a very lively appearance, 
 and commands an extensive view of the Vale of Clwyd, the 
 Clwydian hills and the ocean. The house was considerably 
 enlarged by the late Sir John, and perfected by the present 
 baronet, who has very considerably improved the castle, orna- 
 mented the grounds, and built a splendid park-wall round his 
 demesne. The estate was purchased from an ancient family 
 of the name of Humphreys, by the celebrated Sir Wm. Wilhams, 
 speaker of the house of commons in the last two short parlia- 
 ments of Charles the Second's time, and who was subsequently 
 appointed solicitor-general in the following reign, and afterwards 
 a Welsh judge. On one of his circuits he danced with a 
 daughter of Watkin Kyfiin, Esq., a gentleman of very large 
 property. He obtained the consent of the fair damsel to make 
 proposals to the father for obtaining his consent to give his 
 daughter in marriage to the petitioner. "And what have 
 you?" said the crafty old gentleman. William's reply was, 
 " I have, sir, a wig and gown." He obtained the lady's hand, 
 pocketed a large property, and founded the flourishing families 
 of Wyimstay, Penbedw, and Bodelwyddan. 
 
 In the same direction, and about a mile nearer the railway, is 
 
 KnsraiEL Park, • 
 
 The much admired residence of the right honourable Lord 
 Dinorben, which has recently been rebuilt with free stone, and 
 furnished in the most chaste, elegant and comfortable manner.
 
 62 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 His lordship is an excellent landlord, and is now in his 82nd 
 year. 
 
 Kinmel was formerly the property of the Holland's; and 
 during the civil wars, Sir John Carter, one of Cromwell's adhe- 
 rents, heard of Miss Holland, who was the heiress of this place. 
 He obtained her hand, and became possessor of this fine estate. 
 This marriage caused a wit of the day to say, that colonel 
 Carter had carried off "the best piece of Holland''^ in the 
 county. 
 
 Kinmel park is well stocked with deer of the choicest sort ; 
 some four to five hundred are constantly kept in stock. The 
 scenery from the house is very rich and beautiful. The grounds 
 are extensive, and the gardens' are tastefully laid out. The 
 park wall continues for a considerable distance; but his lord- 
 ship has broken the monotony of its appearance by introducing 
 at regular intervals, some neat iron railings, which affords the 
 tourist a very pleasing view into the extensive park. 
 
 His late Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, 
 
 for several years was in the habit of spending some weeks dur- 
 ing the shooting season at Kinmel park. On the brow of a hill 
 on the left is Pen-y-Park, on the top of which is the site of 
 Owen Gwynedd's camp, after his retreat before Henry the Se- 
 cond, whose further progress the gallant Welshman here kept 
 at bay. The view from this camp is surpassingly beautiful. 
 Close to this place is Dinorben, an ancient mansion-house, from 
 which his lordship takes his title. 
 
 Immediately after leaving Rhyl, the railway is conveyed on 
 an embankment and drawbridge over the river Voryd, which is 
 navigable as far as Rhuddlan, the tide rising here twenty feet. 
 The large tract of land on the left is the celebrated spot where 
 the 
 
 Battle of Rhuddlan Marsh 
 
 took place in 795, between the Welsh under the command of 
 prince Caradoc, and the Saxon forces under Offa, king of Mer- 
 cia. The Welsh prince is said to have been killed in the battle. 
 The disastrous event is commemorated by a Welsh air called 
 " Morfa Rhuddlan," which is deservedly admired for the plain- 
 tive sweetness of its melody. According to the Welsh chroni- 
 cles, it would appear that Offa himself fell in this engagement. 
 This marsh was secured from the encroachments of the sea in
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 63 
 
 1799: the embankment is nearly eight miles in length, and of 
 various dimensions, according to the force of the tide. About 
 27,000 acres of rich sandy loam land were enclosed; 500 acres 
 of which were appointed by an act of inclosure to be sold, to- 
 wards defraying the expense of securing the whole marsh from 
 the encroachments of the sea, which committed some ravages 
 at Tywyn Abergele. Some portions of the allotments sold at 
 that time at from £30 to £35 per acre. — The village on the 
 hill is called 
 
 St. George, or Llan St. Sior. 
 
 The church is pleasantly situated, and has lately been re- 
 stored by the patron, Lord Dinorben, who has also erected a 
 handsome Gothic mausoleum over the tomb of the late Lady 
 Dinorben. The view seaward is terminated only with the 
 horizon, and the waves of the sea occasionally wash the em- 
 bankments of the railway. 
 
 Pentre Mawr, the seat of Batenham Jones, Esq. of London, 
 is close to the 
 
 ABERGELE STATION. 
 
 This market town is pleasantly situated within half a mile 
 of the station. It consists of one wide street, not remarkable 
 for regularity or beauty ; but the salubrity of the air, and the 
 superiority of its shore render it a favourite resort for sea- 
 bathing. The Bee hotel possesses very superior accommoda- 
 tion, and is decidedly one of the best inns in the Principality. 
 The scenery in the neighbourhood is very beautiful, and is 
 adorned with gentlemen's seats and thickly-wooded parks. 
 
 Encroachment of the Sea. — In the churchyard at Abergele, 
 there is a dateless epitaph mentioned by Pennant, evincing that 
 a vast tract of inhabited country extended at least three miles 
 north of this place. The inscription runs thus — " Yma mae'n 
 gorwedd, yn Monwent Mihangel (St. Michael's), gwr oedd ai 
 anedd, dair milltir yn y gogledd." (In this churchyard lies a 
 man, who lived three miles to the north of this place.) " But 
 as a better proof," continues Mr. Pennant, " I have observed at 
 low water, far from the clayey banks, a long tract of hard 
 loam, filled with the bodies of oak trees tolerably entire, but so 
 soft as to cut with the knife as easily as wax." Another sin- 
 gular fact is mentioned by our venerable friend and townsman, 
 Dr. Thackeray, of Chester : — " I have seen," says the worthy
 
 64 A RAILWAY CO]MPA^^OX 
 
 doctor, " on my former peregrinations along this healthy coast, 
 several springs of beautiful fresh water issuing from the woods 
 a considerable distance towards the sea, and which are covered 
 when the tide is in." — At a short distance from the town is the 
 elegant modern mansion of 
 
 G^\TiYCH Castle, 
 The property and residence of Lloyd Hesketh Bamford Hesketh, 
 Esq. It is beautifully situated on a rocky eminence, well shaded 
 with wood. The front extends nearly 500 yards ; on each side 
 there is a noble terrace 420 yards in length ; and the grounds 
 are laid out with considerable taste. The lodge entrance is 
 through a lofty arch well flanked vsdth two embattled towers. 
 The site of this splendid mansion affords a most interesting 
 view of the ocean and its concomitants. More than 200 sail 
 of vessels are sometimes seen in a tide, gliding in various di- 
 rections over the bosom of the vasty deep. The principal 
 tower, called Hesketh Tower, is about 90 feet high. There is 
 another lodge on the road to Conway, built under the celebrated 
 cave of Tan-yr-ogo, which has a very good effect. At this pass 
 several battles have formerly been fought between the Welsh, 
 the Anglo-Saxons, and their Norman invaders ; and to com- 
 memorate which, Mr. Hesketh has caused several tablets to be 
 placed on each side of the entrance lodge, with inscriptions in 
 commemoration of the gallant exploits of the Welsh chieftains 
 in defending this narrow path against the encroachments of the 
 enemy. 
 
 The huge rocks seen on the right some miles before us, are 
 called " Khiw Felen, and Trwyn y Fuwch Foel," or 
 
 The Great Orjies Head. 
 This high and grand promontory, projecting from the main 
 land into the ocean, first appears as a huge rocky mountain, 
 rising from the depth of the sea; and from its rugged and 
 hoary appearance, it becomes much more stupendous as it is 
 approached, and particularly so when a strong north-west wind 
 prevails, when it seems to threaten the mariner, with its im- 
 pending head, to dash him in pieces. The channel lies close to 
 the rock, and is several fathoms deep. The western extremity 
 is a vast precipice, the haunt of various sea-fowls in the breed- 
 ing season. The gulls possess the lowest part; above them 
 the razor-bills and guillimots have their quarters ; over them 
 croak the cormorants. The herons occupy the highest regions;
 
 FROil CHESTEK TO HOLYHEAD. 65 
 
 while scattered in different parts are the puffins and black 
 guillimots. The peregrine falcon builds in these rocks. This 
 species, in the day of falconry, was so esteemed, that the great 
 Lord Burleigh, one of Queen Elizabeth's ministers, sent a letter 
 of thanks to an ancestor of the Hon. E. M. LI. Mostyn, M.P. 
 for a present of a cast of hawks from this place. 
 
 At the extremity of the park is a large 
 
 Cave. 
 
 This primitive and time -hallowed cave is very well worthy of a 
 visit from the traveller. Its mouth resembles the huge en- 
 trance of a Gothic cathedral. A few feet inside, and imme- 
 diately in the centre of it, is a rock rising from the floor to the 
 lofty roof, not unlike a massive pillar rudely sculptured, which 
 divides the cavern into two apartments. The hollow on the 
 left soon terminates ; but that on the right spi-eads into a large 
 chamber, thirty feet in height, and stretching to an uncertain 
 depth, such as human curiosity has never been hardy enough 
 to ascertain. Making a short turn, a few yards from the 
 entrance, and sweeping into the interior of the mountain, the 
 forms and dimensions of this abyss are concealed in impen- 
 etrable darkness, and its windings can only be followed with 
 prudence about forty yards, when the light totally disappears, 
 and the flooring becomes both dirty and unsafe. Stalactites 
 of various fanciful forms decorate the fretted roof and sides of 
 this extraordinary cave. About a mile onwards, is the village 
 of 
 
 Llanddulas, 
 
 Situated in a glen surrounded with lime-stone rocks. The 
 quarries above give employment to a great number of men. 
 A railroad has lately been constructed to bring the stone from 
 Llysfaen quarries: it is on an inclined plane all the way. The 
 stone and lime are shipped from here for agricultural purposes 
 to all parts of the country. Mr. Jones, the proprietor of these 
 lime-stone rocks, ships about 70,000 tons annually; and now 
 the Chester and Holyhead railway passes close by the quarries, 
 no doubt the consumption will be very much greater, and the 
 demand along the line will be considerable. Brony wendon, the 
 neat marine villa residence of 11. W. Wynne, Esq. is situated 
 on a bank close to the line ; and Tan-yr-allt, a neat Ehzabethian 
 house, the residence of Mr. Jones, is beyond it on the left.
 
 66 A RAILAVAY COMPANION 
 
 The cuttings from hence for some distance have been very 
 heavy, at the end of which the carriages enter the bowels of 
 the earth through 
 
 Penmaen Rhos Tunnel, 
 
 which is 1629 feet long, cut through some hard lime-stone 
 rock. 
 
 Richard II. treacherously inveigled. 
 
 The promontory of Penmaen Rhos juts into the sea between 
 Llanddulas and Colwyn, and is celebrated as being the spot 
 where Richard the Second was treacherously inveigled by the 
 duphcity of the Earl of Northumberland, who went to Conway 
 to meet Richard, under the pretence of arranging matters be- 
 tween him and his rival to the throne, the Duke of Lancaster. 
 Stowe gives an interesting account of this transaction. He 
 says that the Earl of Northumberland swore at high mass at 
 Conway, that he woiild not betray the king. The earl posted 
 the king forward from Conway on horseback; but the king 
 prayed the earl to go before, and prepare dinner at Rhuddlan 
 Castle. The earl rode a space until he came to his people in 
 ambush under the rock, whom he praised for having obeyed his 
 orders. The king passing the water, rode some miles before 
 he came to the rock; and when he saw the ambushers, he was 
 sore afraid, knowing well that he was betrayed by the earl, for 
 he was in a place where he could not escape; the sea beating 
 on the one side, and the rock keeping him in on the other; and 
 if he fled back, they would have caught him ere he could reach 
 Conway. When the king descended the rock, the earl came, 
 and kneeling down, excused the matter; saying, he had caused 
 those people to come to guard his person ; but the king, who 
 had only six and twenty in his retinue, told the earl that fewer 
 would have served, and that it was contrary to his oath, for he 
 had promised to have but five in his company. The king then 
 said that he would go back to Conway ; but the earl answered 
 that "now sith he had him, he would lead him to the Duke of 
 Lancaster, as he had promised ten days since," And so he 
 caused bread and wine to be brought and oftered to the king, 
 who durst not refuse it. And after leaping on horseback, the 
 earl directed the king onwards to Rhuddlan castle, and after- 
 wards to Flint castle, to which place the reader is referred for 
 the remainder of this treacherous and unfeehng transaction.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 67 
 
 On the left, immediately after passing through the tunnel, is 
 the village of 
 
 COLWYN, 
 
 which of late years has greatly improved in size; and a neat 
 new church has been erected. Min~y-don, the seat of the late 
 Captain Clough ; Bryn-du-las, the seat of J. Hesketh, Esq. ; 
 and Glan-y-don, the seat of Henry Hesketh, Esq., of Chester, 
 are in the neighbourhood. Up the valley, on the left, is the 
 village of 
 
 Llanelian, 
 
 celebrated for its Cursing Well, which, owing to a foolish 
 tradition, was a long time the terror of the neighbourhood - 
 and the surrounding counties. No later than the month 
 of February, 1849, a party of two gentlemen, from Wolver- 
 hampton, called upon the author to make some enquiries 
 about the well, stating that a friend of theirs, who had met 
 with sad reverses, and was in a very bad state of health, 
 because he was "put in this well." It was in vain that 
 the writer spoke of their credulity — they believed that " there 
 was something in it," and go they would to " Fynnon Elian ;" 
 but they did not call to state the result of their long journey. 
 
 Further on towards the shore is the village of Llandrillo, 
 which was formerly the residence of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, a 
 British king, who reigned in the fifth century. It was after- 
 wards the residence of Ednyfed Vychan, chief of one of -the royal 
 tribes of Wales. On the shore is Rhus Fynach, or the Marsh 
 of the Monks, attached to the abbey of Conway. And close to 
 the Llandrillo fishing weir is an Oratory (like an inverted bee 
 hive,) in which the clergyman read the formula. Happening 
 once to be walking upon Penmaen-Rlius, (says our old friend 
 Llwyd,) I saw four boats leaving the shore, to lay down their 
 nets. In an instant every oar was still for a few minutes. On 
 inquiry, I was told that the Lord's prayer was repeated in that 
 interval. Within the memory of persons now living, it was 
 customary for the ministers of parishes near the sea-shore, to 
 attend and read prayers when the nets were laid out, and to 
 receive, at the drawing up, a part of the produce. The late 
 apostoHc Dr. Wilson, bishop of Man, composed a formulary for 
 this purpose. 
 
 Proceeding onwards, on the left is seen the newly erected
 
 68 A R.VILWAY COMPANIOX 
 
 mansion of Pwll-y-croclion, the seat of Sir Thomas Erskine, 
 bart. A little further on the right, another neat Elizabethian 
 box, the residence of Mrs. Allanson. The line now passes 
 through the small vale of Mochdre. On the right is the pretty 
 little church of Llancwstenyn, nearly opposite which is the 
 village of Mochdre ; and a little further on, on the same side, is 
 Bryneisteddfod, the residence of Archdeacon Jones j and on the 
 right opposite is Pabo, the seat of Mr. Eees. 
 
 The carriages now approach the river Conway, where a most 
 magnificent landscape presents itself. The fine old toM'n of 
 Conway, with its ancient castles, walls, and towers, appears in 
 front ; and the vast range of the Caernarvonshire mountains, 
 forming a back ground, has a beautiful effect. The line runs 
 on an embankment 6 or 700 yards, parallel with the turnpike 
 road, and then plunges into the aerial tunnel ; and after a few 
 seconds of darkness, the carriages emerge into daylight close 
 beneath the grey walls of Conway castle. After passing this 
 picturesque and venerable ruin, the line glides by the still 
 standing, though dilapidated walls of the town. And on land- 
 ing at the 
 
 CONWAY STATION, 
 
 the traveller finds himself in one of the most picturesque spots 
 which any line in these kingdoms can exhibit. 
 
 This antique town is within the walls that were erected at 
 the same time as the castle, built by Edward the First; and 
 although there are no manufactures to enrich the inhabitants, 
 it has always been considered a borough of importance. The 
 Avails which encircle the town are ornamented with circular 
 towers. The natural beauty of the surrounding scenery strikes 
 the most prosaic observer; while the antique charms of moul- 
 dering towers, and broken arch, and ruined wall, all clothed in 
 green by the clinging ivy, carry the mind back to " days of old 
 and deeds of glory." 
 
 There are several objects of attraction at Conway: — its 
 splendid castle, its beautiful suspension bridge, its ancient 
 walls, its ample estuary, and above all, its tubular bridge, 
 which is one of the greatest novelties of the day ; and as it is 
 such a popular object of attraction, we will at once proceed 
 thither.
 
 from chester to holyhead. 69 
 
 The Iron Tubular Bridge over the Conway. 
 
 This is one of the greatest scientific achievements of the 
 age. It is the conception of a master-mind, and its acconj- 
 pBshment the result of gigantic physical effort. Wales 
 has many wonders, both natural and scientific, but this out- 
 strips all the latter. The proudest ancient monuments of Eng- 
 lish architecture are in Wales, existing in those stupendous 
 citadels, which throw into the shade all the feudal glories of 
 the Rhine, and realize the fictions of romance. The greatest 
 modern efforts of mechanical art are in Wales ; of which our 
 American visitors are in the habit of observing " To see the 
 Menai bridge alone is worth a longer voyage." The suspension 
 bridges over the Conway and Menai are most assuredly magni- 
 ficent specimens of the triumph of art; their construction is 
 ingenius, elegant, and beautiful, and have immortalized the 
 name of Telford. But as regards solidity and magnitude, they 
 are not to be compared with this masterpiece of engineering 
 skill, or with the one now erecting over the Menai Straits. It 
 has been well observed that the successful accomplishment of 
 the great desigii of the tubular bridge is probably the boldest 
 achievement of modern science, and the most beautiful exhibi- 
 tion of the combination of theoretical calculation with practi- 
 cal ingenuity. It will be referred to in succeeding ages as one 
 of the wonders of this great mechanical period, and copied in 
 various forms in the future constructions of the engineer. 
 
 Description of the Tube.* 
 
 The tubular viaduct over the Conway consists of two tubes, 
 placed in juxta-position, one for the up, and the other for the 
 dovra trains, each of them measuring 400 feet in length, and 
 weighing 1300 tons ! 
 
 Its section is nearly rectangular, with a slight arch at the 
 top to prevent the accumulation of rain. Its walls, floor, and 
 ceiling, are composed entirely of hard wrought iron; varying 
 from half an inch to an inch in thickness : the greatest strength 
 being in the middle. Its exterior is painted, to protect it from 
 the weather: the colour is that of freestone. 
 
 Its walls are formed of a series of iron plates, alternating in 
 length so as to produce a regular and reticulated appearance, 
 
 • A beautiful print of the Tube and Castle has been recently 
 published by T. Catherall, Eastgate-row, Chester. 
 
 F
 
 70 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 analogous to stone work: the whole securely rivetted together 
 by the mechanism hereafter described. 
 
 The whole length of each tube is 412 feet; width 14 feet 
 throughout; height 22 J feet at each end, and gradually 
 increasing to 25^ feet in the middle. 
 
 This additional three feet, the versed sine of the arc, or cam- 
 her, as it is technically called, is given to lessen the deflection 
 of the base of the tube, and to increase its general strength. 
 
 The entire weight of each viaduct being 1300 tons, notwith- 
 sta.nding the extreme strength given to the sides, a considera- 
 ble deflection or falling down, at the base, was to be expected, 
 owing to the vast strength and weight necessarily given to the 
 floor. Mr. Stephenson had calculated this deflection at seven 
 inches; but on trial it turned out to be seven inches and seven 
 eights, — a fact of which the tubes at the Menai will reap the 
 benefit, that amount of camber having been given to their floors. 
 This amount of flexure was very slightly increased during 
 the testing process, which took place a short time previous to 
 its being removed from its stage, under the immediate super- 
 intendence of ]\Ir. Stephenson, accompanied by a great number 
 of engineers and a party of directors. 
 
 A brief description of the testing pi'ocess is necessary, in 
 order to a due appreciation of the result. 
 
 The wedges which supported the tube on the cradle upon 
 which it had been erected were removed, and the ends of the 
 tube were left to rest upon stone piers built for the purpose ; 
 each end having a hold of six feet on its pier, leaving a clear 
 span of 400 feet. It was in this state that the flexure of the 
 tube was first ascertained, and it was in this state that the 
 strength of the tube was put to the severest test, with a suc- 
 cess far outstripping the most sanguine expectations ; the flex- 
 ure being only increased two inches and three-eighths when a 
 weight of 300 tons was acting on the middle of the tube ; and 
 this increase was not permanent, as the versed sine of the 
 original curve was restored within a quarter of an inch when 
 the testing weight was removed. 
 
 In addition to the powerful hydraulic machines for lifting 
 the tube to its final place of destination in the suspending piers, 
 we were greatly impressed with the number and importance of 
 the machines necessary for the formation of the tube itself, and 
 its various component parts. 
 
 A description of the various pieces of mechanism here re-
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 71 
 
 ferred to ■would not be generally either amusing or instructive ; 
 it is sufficient that we glance cursorily at their nature. 
 
 Picture to yourself a knife, shear, or cutting edge, that clips 
 up hard-wrought iron, an inch thick, just as readily as a pastry 
 cook cuts the lids for her mince-pies, or a sempstress the mate- 
 rial for a new cap ; and another machine that takes up the 
 pieces of iron so cut, and holds them in juxtaposition; whilst a 
 third drives red-hot wedges or bolts into round holes that have 
 been punched out as readily as your shoemaker has cut out 
 the holes in the fastenings of your shoe, — the same red-hot 
 bolt being clenched on both sides into a round double-headed 
 compact rivet, binding the two sheets of iron together. 
 
 Picture to yourself again all these, and you have, after all, a 
 most imperfect notion of the various mechanical contrivances 
 by which above fifteen hundred tons of iron, a considerable 
 quantity of it hard wrought, and varying from half an inch to 
 an inch in thickness, has been measured, weighed, clipped, 
 pierced, lifted up, rivetted, moved, handled, and finally fash- 
 ioned to the original design, as readily as a child cuts, clips, 
 and fastens the materials of her paper fly-cages and cardboard 
 chimney ornaments. These machines were constructed spe- 
 cially for the formation of the tubes. 
 
 The name of Stephenson, in all probability, will never be 
 forgotten in the annals of this country; the father, as the 
 inventor of locomotive engines, and the introducer of railway 
 travelHng; and the son, as the constructor of the monster 
 tubular bridges over the Conway and Menai straits. The 
 herculean task of removing this tremendous iron suspending 
 structure and floating it to its place was accomplished on the 
 11th of March, 1848, under the superintendence of Messrs. 
 Stephenson, whose directions to the diflierent parties, in conse- 
 quence of the width of the estuary, were effected by means of 
 a speaking trumpet. Among those who were conspicuous in 
 conducting and assisting the operation, we noticed Mr. Brunei, 
 Mr. Eendell, Mr. Clark, Mr. Ross, Mr. Bidder, Mr. Forster, 
 ^Ir. Fairburne, Mr. Evans, Captain Moorsom, and the crew of 
 the Great Britain, commanded by Captain Claxton, who was 
 so elated when the task of floating the tube to the piers was 
 accomplished, that he gave the signal for a general shout, 
 which was responded to again and again by the populace. The 
 tube was finally adjusted to its proper place on Monday the 
 17th of April. On the Tuesday, the engine passed through it
 
 72 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 several times ; and on the Wednesday, the great inventor, E. 
 Stephenson, Esq. M.P., accompanied by the directors of the 
 company, passed through, to the great joy of all present; not 
 the least vibration was felt, nor any deflection observed. Much 
 credit is due to Mr. Evans, the contractor who built the tube, 
 for the spirited manner he undertook such a task as was never 
 before attempted: as also to Mr. Edwin Clark, general engi- 
 neer, and to ]\Ir. A. Ross, engineer of the masonry. We agree 
 with the worthy vicar of this place, that " the Conway tube 
 is the first born of a giant race, which are likely to become 
 useful and general." 
 
 The final operation of lowering the second tube, for the re- 
 turn line to London, and placing it on its permanent bed, was 
 accomplished on Wednesday the 15th of November, 1848. 
 
 Public Dlsts^er in honour of R. Stephenson, Esq. M.P. 
 
 To celebrate his triumphant success in the completion of the tube. 
 
 The nobility, gentry, and the respectable inhabitants of the 
 Principality invited that gentleman to a public dinner at Con- 
 way, which took place the 17th May, 1848-. The chair was 
 taken by our patriotic countryman, the Hon. E. M. LI. Mostyn, 
 the deservedly popular member for the county of Fhnt, and the 
 vice-chair by William Bulkeley Hughes, Esq. the active mem- 
 ber for the Caernarvonshire boroughs. About 200 sat down, 
 consisting of the elite of the counties of Fhnt, Denbigh, Caer- 
 narvon, and Anglesea. Mr. Stephenson sat on the right of the 
 hon. chairman, and his venerable and highly intelligent father 
 occupied the left-hand seat. Letters of apology for unavoid- 
 able absence were received from the subjoined nobility and 
 gentry, who expressed deep regret at not being able to attend : 
 Lord Mostyn, Lord Newborough, Hon. Col. Pennant, M.P., 
 Hon. W. 0. Stanley, Sir R. Bulkeley, Sir C. Smith, Sir John 
 H. WiUiams, Archdeacon Jones, and others. The dinner, wines, 
 and dessert, were of the very first order, and consisted of every 
 possible variety in the greatest profusion. It was quite in 
 accordance with the old-fashioned Welsh hospitality, and fully 
 sustained the well-earned character of Mrs. Owens for her very 
 superior catering on all occasions. 
 
 The hon. chairman, in his usual loyal and patriotic manner, 
 proposed the health of our most gracious majesty the Queen, 
 with the honoiirs, the whole company rapturously responding.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 73 
 
 " The Prince of Wales" (Tywysos: Cymru). " The Prince 
 Albert and the rest of the royal family." After which, the 
 hon. chairman rose, amidst silence the most profound, to pro- 
 pose the toast of the evening He felt that he could but inade- 
 quately attempt to convey to their talented guest that feeling 
 of respect, admiration, and gratitude, in which all around him 
 joined. He could not do justice to his own feelings, and there • 
 fore not to theirs ; for he was sure that no man he saw around 
 him could have a sense less lively than his own of the great 
 advantages which the labours of Mr, Stephenson (as respected 
 the tube now thrown over the Conway and those about to be 
 erected across the Straits) would ere long confer upon the coun- 
 try in general, and upon those localities in particular. (Loud 
 cheers). Thirty years ago a mail-coach left Conway at twelve 
 o'clock on Wednesday, and did not reach London until six 
 o'clock on Friday morning. He remembered when it cost seven 
 guineas for an inside fare to London, independent of the many 
 incidental expenses inevitable upon so long a jouraey. But 
 now, when those incidental expenses were nearly, if not entirely, 
 done away with, in seven hours a man might travel, in a com- 
 fortable arm chair, and seat himself in Euston-squai-e, at the 
 cost of a mere trifle, instead of being jolted in a stage-coach 
 for so long a period, and at a charge so heavy. That beautiful 
 erection, the bridge designed and completed by Mr. Telford, 
 was certainly a great ornament to the place ; but the advan- 
 tages yet to be derived from the gigantic tube which had been 
 wrought into being under the auspices of their enterprising and 
 highly talented guest, were incalculable. It could scarcely be 
 expected for him to dilate upon the national advantages that 
 would accrue from lessening the time of transit, and thereby 
 the effect of distance, between places so remote as the capitals 
 of England and of Ireland ; but of this they might rest assured, 
 that in being the great arterial link between the two countries, 
 the Principality in general, and Conway in particular, could do 
 no less than derive the most permanent and important benefits, 
 (cheers); and surely he should not be felt guilty of repetition, 
 if he again asked them, whether this was not a source of proud 
 exultation amongst themselves, and one that warranted the 
 highest tribute of admiration and respect to their honourable 
 guest? (Renewed cheers.) The general tenor of the gentle- 
 man's professional career had been one which would for ever 
 coixnect itself with the history of our national improvement.
 
 74 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 He should therefore conclude by enunciating those feelings of 
 admiration and profound respect, which all present, and thou- 
 sands who were absent, unitedly felt towards the gentleman 
 they had met that night, wishing long life, health, and happi- 
 ness to him. The health of Mr. Robert Stephenson, in a 
 bumper. (Cheers.) (The toast was most enthusiastically 
 responded to.) 
 
 Mr. R. Stephenson rose to thank the company for the honour 
 they had conferred upon him. He said, in effect, that the 
 labours of an engineer were generally felt to be adequately re- 
 warded, when they turned out to be successful in themselves, 
 and such as were approved of by the real promoters of the un- 
 dertaking: and in that respect he had certainly received a 
 most liberal reward, the success of his enterprize being indis- 
 putable, and the approbation of those whose interests he had 
 sought to advance, being most fully awarded. He assured 
 them, with unaffected sincerity, that the present was the proud- 
 est and happiest moment of his professional career: and that 
 the remembrance of it would be most gratefully and fondly 
 cherished so long as life was spared to him. (Loud cheers.) 
 He felt that it would not be inappropriate in him, succinctly, 
 to detail a few facts relative to tubular bridges. 
 
 First Idea of the Tubular Bridge. 
 
 It was about six or seven years ago, said Mr. S. that he had 
 first conceived the notion: and the result, when that notion 
 was promulgated in the proper quarter, was the proposed adop- 
 tion of the plan on a small and experimental scale, but under 
 the provisions of an act of parliament, which put so many limi- 
 tations and clogs and fetters upon the undertaking, in the very 
 first instance, as to render it utterly impracticable. It was on 
 the Northern and Eastern railway, and was to have been of 
 wrought iron, but the expense of that material, as compared 
 with cast iron, was another insuperable objection, at that time. 
 The notion of throwing a cast iron viaduct of arches over the 
 straits, was next taken into contemplation : but against this, 
 (whether correctly instituted or not, it was not his province to 
 say), there had been such formidable opposition that the scheme 
 had been withdrawn. Then followed a grant for constructing a 
 cast iron tubular biidge over the Straits, under such conditions 
 and limitations as would effectually prevent the completion of 
 the project. Being thus, to use a proverbial expression, driven
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. i O 
 
 into a corner, he had nothing left but to revert to tli^ original 
 idea of a tubular viaduct, composed of wrought ir6n "plates; 
 and that idea had subsequently, as they had seen, been carried 
 out into practice. (Loud cheering). 
 
 First mooted in ParlIxVjient. 
 
 When first the notion was mooted before a parliamentary 
 committee, continued Mr. S., an incredulous glance of the most 
 marked and unmistakable character was turned on him from 
 every hon. member. The glance he could never forget, but it 
 did not weaken his conviction. He saw the practicability of 
 the plan, and stood to it. Experiments took place, by which to 
 test and develope all the essential data and conditions. In 
 these experiments he had had the able assistance of Mr. Fair- 
 burn and Mr. Hodgkinson : and the realized matured result of 
 their joint labours was now to be seen under the walls of their 
 venerable castle. (Loud cheers). The names of those gentle- 
 men reminded him of a third, from whom he had derived the 
 greatest possible aid. He alluded to his confidential friend, Mr- 
 Edwin Clark. That gentleman was ever on the look-out for 
 unforeseen contingencies ; and as nothing within the range of 
 possibility could escape his keen perception, he (Mr. Stephen- 
 son) had the advantage of having constantly a friendly monitor 
 in his company, to warn him of the most distant approaches of 
 any adverse circumstance, or injurious incident. It was not 
 for him to say more. Twenty-five years ago men were content 
 to be dragged along in clumsy vehicles, roughly and rudely, at 
 the rate of eight or ten miles an hour. Now they can vie in 
 fleetness of motion with the swiftest horse : nay, they could do 
 more, and had done more. They had commanded (and with 
 success) the Hghtning to transmit their thoughts from one end 
 of the kingdom to the other, with a speed like that of hght, 
 and beyond the measurement of thought. (Tremendous cheers, 
 during which Mr. Stephenson resumed his seat.) 
 
 The health of the chairman was proposed by Mr, Stephen- 
 son, and drank in the most enthusiastic manner; afterwards 
 the directors of the Chester and Holyhead railway. 
 
 The Chairman then proposed the health of a gentleman 
 well known to all present, " Sir Eichard Bulkeley," who was 
 unavoidably absent. The letter of the worthy baronet con- 
 cluded by a paragraph which he would read to them. Advert- 
 ing to the tubular bridge over the Conway, Sir Eichard said,
 
 76 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 " Success to the railway, and long life to its talented engineer. 
 He had done more to raise the value of property of all kinds 
 in Wales, and to promote the social happiness of the people, 
 than had been achieved by all its poets, and statesmen, and 
 lawgivers, and warriors, since the invasion of the Eomans." 
 (Loud cheers.) 
 
 The next toast, observed the honourable chairman, was one 
 which would excite deep interest. It referred to one, without 
 whom their honoured guest could not have been. As a father, 
 I can feel that which the venerable father of our honom-ed 
 guest must feel, at seeing his son so early crowned with the 
 laurels of success, and rich in well-deserved renown. Long 
 may he live to see the inspirations of his own youth completed 
 in the person of his own son. May his long and arduous 
 career be brightened throughout its entire duration, by reflect- 
 ing on the fact that the labours of himself and his offspring 
 will cause the name of Stephenson to be known and honoured 
 through all the regions of the earth. " The health of Mr. 
 George Stephenson, with three times three." 
 
 Mr. G. Stephenson, on rising to return thanks, was greeted 
 with a round of deafening cheers. He entered into a detail of 
 the early life of his son, stating that he had shifted him from 
 school to school as his own improved finances and prospects 
 appeared to warrant, until at length he had been enabled to 
 secure for him the full advantages of classical and mathemati- 
 cal education, including courses of lectures in chemistry and 
 mineralogy, under the most able professors — a range of advan- 
 tages, of which he was happy to state, the young man had not 
 been slow to avail himself, as he in every case outstripped all 
 his competitors in the race for knowledge, and stood at the 
 head of his class, taking more prizes than any other boy. The 
 venerable father of the science of railway engineering then went 
 on to shew by facts in his own history the many disadvantages 
 with which that science had in the first instance to contend, at 
 a time when its suggestions were slighted, and its utility was 
 a matter of doubt. He said that at one time the Liverpool 
 people wanted to conduct the trafiic between that town and 
 Manchester, by means of a communication of ropes; and this 
 scheme was within an ace of being winner — a majority of one 
 alone determining in favour of his proposed locomotive. Having 
 described the contest that took place at Kain Hill, and given a 
 brief historic outhne of the progress of the science, Mr. Ste- 
 phenson sat down amidst loud and renewed cheers.
 
 FROM CIIESTEP. TO HOLYHEAD. / t 
 
 The usual routine of toasts and sentiments was given with 
 great spirit, and the company separated highly satisfied. And 
 we beUeve the worthy gentleman will never forget the Welsh 
 mode of hospitality, and the manner the sons of Cambria de- 
 light to give " honour to whom honour is due." 
 
 In 1826, parliament voted the sum of £40,000 for the 
 purpose of making here a splendid 
 
 Suspension Bridge over the Conway, 
 Of 377 feet long. The chains are fastened on the east in a 
 solid rock, formei-ly a small island, and on the west side, after 
 passing under the wall of the castle, at the distance of fifty- 
 four feet, are securely bolted into the rock on which the fortress 
 is built. The embankment on the eastern side is 671 yards 
 in width, which terminates with a handsome lodge of two 
 circular towers, forty-two feet high, corresponding in design 
 with the venerable remains of the castle, and forming a splendid 
 entrance into the town. 
 
 This river divides the counties of Denbigh and Caernarvon, 
 and has been celebrated from the earliest period of British 
 history for its pearl fishery. Pliny asserts that Julius Caesar 
 dedicated to Venus Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a breast- 
 plate set with British pearls; and other authorities go so far 
 as to assign the desire to get possession of these pearls as 
 one of the reasons of invading the British Isles. Edward 
 Lhwyd says, that the pearls formerly found here were as large 
 and as well coloui-ed as any in Great Britain. One presented 
 to the Queen of Charles the Second, by Sir R. Wynn, of Gwydir, 
 is now honoured with a place in the royal crown. 
 
 The antiquary will be pleased with several houses that are 
 remarkable for their antiquity and singularity, at Conway, 
 particularly Plas Mawr, the Great Mansion, which is built in 
 the Ehzabethian style ; the apartments are ornamented with 
 niches, containing uncouth figures, interspersed with numerous 
 coats of arms. 
 
 The Ancient Abbey'. 
 The ancient abbey, the site of which is now called the Spital, 
 was amply provided for by its founder, Llywelyn ap lorweth, 
 Prince of Wales. Of this edifice there is now no trace : Edward 
 the First having removed the monks, with all their privileges, 
 to Maenan, near Llanrwst, in order to convert Conway into a 
 miUtary station.
 
 78 A RAILWAY CO^MP ANION 
 
 The Lifeless Head of Prince LLr^^^LYN. 
 
 It was at the abbey of Conway that Edward the First received 
 the lifeless head of the brave but unfortunate Llywelyn, the 
 last of our princes. It is supposed that he was betrayed by 
 Ehys ap Meredydd, a South Wales chieftain, and one Adam de 
 Francton plunged his spear into the body of the unarmed and 
 defenceless prince; elated with the triumph he had thus 
 achieved, he severed his head from his body and dispatched it 
 to Edward, who was then at Conway. The bleeding trophy 
 was received by the king with barbarous exultation, totally 
 unworthy of a magnanimous prince. That he should rejoice 
 in the fall of such a formidable enemy was not unnatural ; but 
 the insult offered to his mangled remains was unpardonable : 
 a true picture of cruelty and tyranny ! 
 
 The object which first attracts the attention of all who 
 visit this part of the Principality, and which richly merits the 
 panegyrics which have been lavished upon it, is 
 
 The Castle. 
 
 This venerable fortress is one of the most magnificent ruin- 
 ated castles in the kingdom. It was erected in 1284, by 
 Edward the First, in order to guard against the insurrections 
 of Llywelyn, which for some years before had been frequent. 
 It stands on a bold projecting promontory, and its architecture 
 and position are truly grand. It was defended by eight large 
 round towers, from each of which issued a slender turret, rising 
 much above the battlements, and constructed for commanding 
 an extensive prospect over the adjacent country. There are 
 two entrances into this fortress, both contrived for security. 
 The principal one is the N.W. which formerly had a deep 
 ditch and a drawbridge. The great hall suited the magnifi- 
 cence of the founder; it extended 130 feet in length; was 
 broad and of great height. The roof was supported by eight 
 noble arches, several of which still remain. The view from 
 the top of the battlements is most picturesque; and, indeed, 
 from whichever point this interesting ruin is viewed, the so- 
 lemn grandeur of the whole cannot fail to raise the most sub- 
 lime sensations. To a thoughtful mind, the contemplation of 
 this mouldering fabric will give a rich treat, and teach lessons 
 of morality upon the instability of human greatness. Few spots 
 in the kingdom have more frequently called forth the talent of 
 the artist and the man of taste ; it has been made the scene of
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 79 
 
 dramatic representation in that popular piece, the Castle Spec- 
 tre, and the theme of the poet in numerous effusions of the pen; 
 it has been delineated with all its sublime scenery from every 
 station where a sight could be obtained, but the most favourable 
 view appears to be a few himdred yards higher up the river on 
 the same side. Here the castle is seen boldly projecting in the 
 foreground, with the beautiful new suspension bridge attached; 
 conveying an idea of its being meant for a drawbridge to the 
 fortress. Part of the town appears on the left, while the mouth 
 of the river, open to the sea, forms the distance ; which, with 
 the vessels of various descriptions, gliding on the surface, 
 makes one of the most charming pictures that the imagination 
 can conceive. Speaking of this castle. Pennant says. '' a more 
 beautiful fortress never arose." Lord Lyttleton said, " it is a 
 castle of matchless magnificence, and that if his builder at 
 Hagley had seen the architect, he would have fallen down and 
 worshipped him !" 
 
 It appears to have been used as a fortress for nearly 400 
 years afterwards. It was garrisoned for king Charles the First, 
 by Dr. John WilHams, archbishop of York, who was a native 
 of Wales. His lordship was compelled to surrender to the 
 parliamentary forces on the 6th of November, 1646. The 
 castle was subsequently granted to the Lord Conway, who, 
 with Gothic barbarity, removed the timber, lead, iron, and other 
 materials, and consigned this noble structure to decay and 
 desolation ; but the reader will not be soi-ry to hear that the 
 vessel in which the materials were being conveyed to Ireland, 
 was wrecked, and the whole of the property lost. 
 
 Looking at the two bridges from the castle walls, the deli- 
 cate chain work of Telford's bridge forms a striking contrast 
 with the solid fabric of Stephenson's tubular bridge. 
 
 Edavard the 1st awkwardly situated here. 
 
 In one instance, Edward found himself very unpleasantly 
 situated here. He with a few of his men had preceded the 
 body of his army, and crossed the river, soon after which, the 
 tide flowed in, and prevented his men from following. The 
 Welsh in the mountains, receiving intelligence of this, de- 
 scended upon the castle in a body, and made a furious attack 
 upon him and his handful of men within. Destitute of every 
 kind of provision, except a little honey and water, they were 
 reduced to great distress; but by the strength of the walls,
 
 so A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 and their own activity and bravery, they were enabled to hold 
 till the tide again retired, and the rest of the army came over 
 to their relief.* 
 
 Edward I. keeps his Christmas herb. 
 Edward, after his conquest of Wales, with his queen and a 
 great part of the English nobility, spent a Christmas at Con- 
 way castle, in all the joyous festivities that a luxurious court 
 could boast. The hall, crowded with warrior knights and 
 damsels, echoed the rude merriment of feudal days. The cap 
 passed svdftly round, and tales of feats of arms, of slaughtered 
 foes, and strange adventures, served to beguile the time. Here 
 they were protected in the very heart of an enemy's country, 
 fallen indeed, but still powerful. From hence were issued the 
 edicts of a sovereign against this brave but stubborn people. 
 
 Richard II. at this Castle. 
 
 Richard the Second, on his return from Ireland in the year 
 1399, having landed in Wales, heard that the Duke of Lancas- 
 ter had prepared against him large forces : fearing the weakness 
 of his own army, he stole in the night to Conway castle, in 
 company with a few friends. Here he hoped to remain secure 
 until something effectual could be resolved upon ; but his hope 
 was vain, for the insinuating treachery of Northumberland 
 drew him immediately into the very snare that he had so much 
 dreaded, and wlaich in the end cost him his crown and his life. 
 See Penmaen Rhos and Flint castle. 
 
 Her most gracious Majesty has been pleased to appoint the 
 Hon. Thomas Pryce Lloyd, a well-known, loyal, and patriotic 
 Welshman, the present governor of the castle, who we have 
 no doubt, if occasion required, would display as much loyalty 
 and stand as long a siege as his gallant ancestor did in behalf 
 of royalty at Flint castle in the year 1643. We are happy 
 to hear that the worthy governor has appointed our active 
 and intelligent friend, Mr. Williams of Bodafon, his deputy, 
 and has given instructions to repair the walks and some portions 
 of this beautiful fortress; or, as Lord Lyttleton very properly 
 designates it, " a castle of matchless magnificence ;" so that 
 strangers who visit the principality this and the succeeding 
 summers may have an opportunity of inspecting this ancient 
 citadel, and admire its great architectural taste, form, and 
 beauty. 
 
 * Hen. de Knyghton, de Event Agl, page 2471.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 81 
 
 We strongly anticipate that a much larger number of our 
 English friends will visit Wales this summer than usual ; the 
 facihties offered by railway will be one inducement; and to 
 witness the beautiful and splendid scenery will be another; but 
 the great and popular magnet of attraction for some time to 
 come will be the monster tubular bridges over the Conway and 
 the Menai, to see which alone is worth a journey from John-o'- 
 Groats to the Land's-end. 
 
 Attractions of Cojtsvay and the Neighbourhood. 
 
 Altogether, says the Manchester Guardian, we know of no 
 place, within the same few hours' distance of Manchester, 
 Liverpool, and Chester, that will afford the same amount of 
 gratification to the lover of fine scenery, to the antiquary, and 
 to the admirers of the achievements of mechanical science, 
 than Conway, "with its brace of bridges and their appendages. 
 There are also several very attractive places in the neighbour- 
 hood. On looking at the scenery that surround us, we cannot 
 help quoting the beautiful verses of our charming country- 
 woman, the late ]\Irs. Hemans, of whom Lord Byron used to 
 say, he was not afraid of any writer of his day except " the 
 lady of the vale of Clwyd." They were composed when she 
 was only nine years old ! 
 
 Scenes of the Conway. 
 
 " On the banks of the Conway with rapture I strayed, 
 While the sun-beam was bright on the flood ; 
 And charmed by the prospect around, I surveyed 
 Tlie water, the hills, and the wood. 
 
 When the curtain of evening was spread o'er the scene. 
 
 And sweet was the mild summer gale ; 
 I roved by the side of the river serene, 
 
 And gazed on the fisherman's sail. 
 
 'Twas thus that I mused, while I wandered away 
 
 Through the towers of the castle sublime, 
 Where the bouglis of the ivy conceal the decay 
 
 Which is made by the ravage of time. 
 Kow the sun is departing, with lingering smile, 
 
 He sinks on the billows to rest ! 
 How soft are the colours which glow on the pile. 
 
 How briglit are the clouds of the west ! 
 In these mouldering towei-s, by the mild placid beam 
 
 Tliat silvers the high waving trees, 
 The poet might listen, in fanciful dream, 
 
 To the sighs of the murmuring breeze.
 
 82 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 'Tis mournful to view these deserted old halls, 
 Where the harp of the minstrel has rung ; 
 
 Where the banners of chivalry waved on the walls, 
 And the bards of the festival sung. 
 
 But the turrets, o'ermantled with ivy around, 
 
 Shall echo to music no more ; 
 No longer the chords of the harp shall resound, 
 
 And the carol of gladness is o'er. 
 
 These walls have been decked with the trophies of state. 
 
 This building was noble and proud ; 
 But short is the sun-beam of fortune and fate, 
 
 Like the rain-bow that shines in a cloud. 
 
 The woods and the ruins I left with regi-et. 
 
 And bade them with sorrow adieu ; 
 But the scenes of fair Conway I ne'er can forget. 
 
 For mem'ry their charms will renew." 
 
 A traveller may spend several days very pleasantly here. 
 The inns are good, and afford every accommodation, particularly 
 the Castle, where post-chaises and cars may be had at the 
 shortest notice. The Liverpool Arms and the Harp are com- 
 fortable establishments. Mr. Pennant and Mr. Bingley made 
 several excursions to the hills and other places in this neigh- 
 bourhood ; the stranger cannot do better than follow their steps. 
 After crossing the river, about a mile along the shore, are the 
 
 EuiNs OF Deg^vjstwy, 
 
 Or Gannock Castle. The small remains of this castle stand 
 on a small hill on the Denbighshire side of the river Conway. 
 The crusaders, Baldwyn and Giraldus, in pursuing their jour- 
 ney along the sea-coast, crossed the estuary of the river Conway 
 under Deganwy, which was a fortress of great antiquity; and 
 some authors have supposed it to have been the Station Dictum, 
 where, under the late Roman emperors, the commander of the 
 Nevii Dictenses kept guard. The first mention made of it in 
 the Welsh Chronicle is in the year 810, when it was destroyed 
 by thunder during the reign of Conan Tindaethwy. In the 
 year 1210, the Earl of Chester re-edified this castle, which 
 prince Llywelyu had before destroyed. In the year 1262, it is 
 spoken of as a royal castle of king Edward, and rased by prince 
 Llywelyn. After the final subjection of Wales, and the incor- 
 poration of it with England by the statute made at Rhuddlan, 
 anno 12th of Edward the First, we hear no more mention made 
 of Deganwy.
 
 FKOM CHESTER TO HOLYHE.iD. 83 
 
 Gloddaeth, 
 
 One of the seats of the hon. E. M. LI. Mostyii, M.P. built by his 
 ancestor, Sii' Roger ]\Iostyn, in the reign of queen EHzabeth. 
 In the old entrance-hall are several armorial bearings, and a 
 number of pious and loyal mottoes. On the ancient fire-place 
 is inscribed in antique characters — "Heb Dduw, Heb Ddim, 
 Dmv a digon," (without God, without all). At one end of the 
 hall there are some very curious ancient tracery in fresco, 
 laboriously wrought and highly ornamented. In the centre are 
 the royal arms of Tudor, with the red dragon as supporter, 
 previous to the introduction of the unicorn ; above is the follow- 
 ing motto, " God save oure noble queene, EHzabeth, sende her 
 long to reigne, 1584." There are two other compartm&nts, 
 containing the ancient arms of the family, with numerous 
 quarterings ; they are separated from the centre by Corinthian 
 pillars ; above the coronet on the left is the following, " Feare 
 God, obey thy prince, remember thy ende ;" and above those on 
 the right is the family motto, "Auxilium meum a Domino," 
 which is still adopted by the owner of this place. These 
 ancient arms, tracings, and inscriptions, have recently been 
 restored by the exquisite pencil of Mr. Brown, deputy herald 
 for Chester and North Wales. 
 
 The walks of Gloddaeth may justly vie with anything similar 
 in the kingdom : those on the declivity follow the inclination of 
 the hill, and those on the plain diverge from the centre, where 
 is placed a statue of a gladiator. This house is famed for 
 being the depository of a valuable library of ancient Welsh 
 and other ]\ISS. splendidly illuminated, which have lately been 
 brought to Mostyn Hall, where a new library has been erected 
 for the reception of them, and for two or three other valuable 
 collections of ancient British lore. 
 
 Splendid Views. 
 
 Every flight of the path in Gloddaeth grounds presents 
 new and grand objects : first, the great windings of the river 
 towards Llanrwst; the lofty towers of Conway, and the vener- 
 able walls of the town ; and beyond is a long extent of alps, 
 with Moel Siabod, Carnedd Llywelyn and Davydd, towering 
 with distinguished height. Besides the adventitious trees and 
 shrubs, these walks afford great amusement to the botanist, 
 from the variety of rare plants, all comprised within a very 
 small compass. Not far from here, enveloped in wood, is
 
 84 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 BODYSGALLEN, 
 
 Caswallen's abode, tlie seat of Miss Mostyn. This is a place 
 of very great antiquity, being mentioned in the records of 
 Caernarvon. The situation is commanding, and finely shaded 
 with venerable woods. It is noted for its hospitality ; and a 
 bill of fare for a Christmas dinner in former times is preserved 
 in Mr, Pennant's Wales. 
 
 SOUKCE OF THE CoN^VAY. 
 
 This splendid river takes its rise from Llyn Conway, situated 
 in the mountains in the neighbourhood of Penmachno, at the 
 southern extremity of the county. It runs through the village 
 of Yspytty, and in the course of a few miles it is joined by 
 several contributory streams from the mountains. At Bettws- 
 y-coed it is joined by the Avon Llygwy, and becomes a consi- 
 derable river, famous for trout-fishing. At Llanrwst it flows 
 under the celebrated bridge made by Inigo Jones. It forms 
 the eastern boundary of the county of Caernarvon. The tide 
 flows about ten miles, and meets these contributory torrents at 
 Trefriw. Its course from its rise is about thirty miles, and 
 the various pictiiresque scenery it winds through is unrivalled 
 in any part of Wales. The river is navigable for small craft 
 as far as the neat village of Trefriw, and glides its serpentine 
 course up the Vale of Llanrwst. The drive from Conway to 
 Llanrwst is worthy of inspection. 
 
 The Vale of Llanravst 
 
 Is acknowledged by the great Mr, Burke to be " the most 
 charming spot in North Wales." The continued chain of 
 mountains on the right, together with the thriving plantations 
 reaching to the summit of the hills, presents a fine background 
 for many miles ; the foreground is enlivened by " the sparkling 
 waters of the sportive Conway;" the fishing coracles and trading 
 vessels, passing to and from Trefriw, make a very animated 
 scene. 
 
 " On a rock whose haughty brow 
 Frowns o'er old Conway's foaming flood, 
 Robed in the sable garb of woe, 
 With haggard eyes the poet btood. 
 
 Loose his beard and hoary hair, 
 Streamed like a meteor to the troubled air, 
 And with a master's hand and prophet's fire, 
 Struck the deep sorrows of his lyre."
 
 from chester to holyhead 85 
 
 Caeehun, 
 Or the fort of Rhun, lies at the distance of five miles from 
 Conway : it is a charming little village on the w^estern bank of 
 the river surrounded with wood. To this site has generally 
 been assigned the ancient Roman station of Conovium. In the 
 year 1801, the Rev. H. D. Griffith had many apartments 
 cleared, where several Roman antiquities were found; among 
 others, a brick with " Leg. XX." inscribed on it. This place 
 was afterwards explored by Messrs. Lysons, who had the result 
 published. Just below is Tal-y-Cafn Ferry; and further on 
 the road, about eight miles from Conway, is Pont Porthlwyd. 
 Here the scenery becomes highly interesting. The irregularity 
 of the mountains, continually changing their face from barren 
 crag and fissured rock to verdant down and wooded hill, 
 Pont Dolganwy, a mile further, takes you over a stream issuing 
 from Llyn-Cowlyd, rushing over a barrier forming two immense 
 falls, surrounded by woods, and its perpendicular descent 
 upwards of 180 feet. 
 
 LLANRWST. 
 
 This town is situated in the beautiful Vale of Llanrwst, on 
 one of the banks of the river Conway. It is environed by 
 majestic and well wooded hills. A new and elegant church has 
 lately been erected here. The bridge over the Conway is said 
 to have been built by Inigo Jones, in 1636, at the joint expense 
 of the counties of Caernarvon and Denbigh. At one time 
 while the writer was standing on the bridge, admiring the 
 beautiful scenery, two or three men came and asked him in 
 broken English, "Whether he would like to have a shake?'' 
 On enquiry, he found that the bridge would strongly vibrate, 
 by a person striking his back forcibly against the parapet of 
 the centre arch. 
 
 The Eagle is the principal inn, where the accommodation is 
 good. The neighbouring streams afford great amusement to 
 anglers, who visit here from various parts of England and Wales. 
 Angling Stations. 
 
 Bettws-y-Coed 5 
 
 Dolgarrog 4 
 
 Dolwyddelan 6 
 
 Llanbedr 5 
 
 Trefriw 2 
 
 There are also several celebrated lakes near Llanrwst, Llan- 
 rhychwyn, and Dolgannog: — Llyn Geirionydd (4 miles,) Llyn 
 Cowlyd (6), Llyn Dogynnyd (3), Llyn Afange, Llyn Tal-y 
 llyn, Llyn Craftiant, &c.
 
 »6 A RAILWAY COMPANIOX 
 
 Conway Tunnel. 
 
 Quitting Conway station, the line pi-oceeds through a tunnel 
 under one of the towers of the ancient walls, 1 12 yards; thence 
 through some deep cuttings, which brings on Conway marsh. 
 The Holyhead road is crossed by a substantial bridge. The 
 flat ground on the right, is the old Conway race course. 
 " The Queen's hundred," which used to be contested for here, 
 has long since been transferred to Chester. Looking across 
 the estuary, the traveller will see the ruins of Gannock Castle, 
 the village of Llandidno, and another view of the Great Ormes 
 Head, rising as it were in a solid rock from the ocean, on the 
 top of which there is a beautiful sheep-walk, extending nearly 
 four miles in length and one in breadth, on which there is a 
 telegraph-station, communicating with Liverpool and Holy- 
 head, and by means of which in a few minutes you may have 
 a reply to any question you may ask. On the bleakest point 
 above the sea, and remote from all dwellings, is situated the old 
 parish church. Llandidno of late years has become a favourite 
 resort for strangers during the bathing season. 
 
 The railway skirts the sea- shore again until it enters the 
 bowels of the earth at 
 
 Penmaen Bach Tunnel, 
 
 which is 630 yards long, cut through a hard flinty rock at very 
 considerable expense. After emerging from which the car- 
 riages pass on the left 
 
 Pen Dyffryn, 
 
 The pretty marine residence of Sir Charles Smith. This little 
 plain, called Dwygyfylchi, is situated in a recess of a mountain 
 screened from every harsh wind : it is characterised by a most 
 luxuriant fertility. One year, in particular, its crop of barley 
 was mowed on the 10th of July! We now approach the foot 
 of Penmaen Mawr. Formerly there was a house of entertain- 
 ment at the foot of the ascent each way, and on the signs dis- 
 tiches allusive to the hazardous and laborious journey, said to 
 kave been composed by Dean Swift : — 
 
 " Before you venture hence to pass. 
 Take a good refreshing glass." 
 On the other side : — 
 
 " Now you are over take another, 
 Your drooping spirits to recover." 
 
 The next object that presents itself is
 
 FKOiM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 87 
 
 PENJNIAEX MaWR. 
 
 This is the terminating point of the Caernarvonshire range* 
 of mountains, which stand 1550 feet above the level of the seu. 
 On the summit of this immense protruding mass, the antiquary- 
 will find himself among the ruins of an extensive, though 
 irregular British fortification, which, from its situation, must 
 have been impregnable, and, famine excepted, invincible. 
 
 The remains of other warlike works of our ancestors sink 
 into insignificance when compared with this near the summit 
 of Penmaen Mawr. It is surrounded by a strong treble wall ; 
 within each wall are the foundation sites of more than one 
 hundred round towers, each about eighteen feet diameter with- 
 in ; the walls six feet thick. The entrance, which is steep and 
 rocky, ascends by many turnings. One hundred men might 
 defend it against 5000. Within the walls is ample room for 
 20,000 men! It was a secure stronghold, and the great 
 shelter of the Welsh during the uivasion of their country, 
 before and subsequent to the incursions of Edward the First. 
 
 I have contemplated, says the late ingenious author of Beau- 
 maris Bay, the forbidding front of this immense heap, and con- 
 sidered it as the old friend of my countrymen on many trying 
 occasions, when the great mass of the population of Arvon, 
 with their cattle and dearest moveables were within its limits. 
 
 Penmai:x Mawr Tunkel. 
 
 The sea wall and other railway works at Penmaen Mawr 
 have been exceedingly heavy, the sea sometimes strikes against 
 these rocks with tremendous force. The tunnel here is cut 
 through some very hard rock, and is 220 yards long. 
 
 Upon the second stage of this mountain is Braich-y-Ddinas, 
 the Arm of the City, where there are remains of an early Bri- 
 tish fortification. The summit shoots up in two protuberances: 
 upon the lower is an enclosure of 112 feet in diameter, with a 
 ■wall four feet high and three feet thick, within is a well aflbrd- 
 ing plenty of water, even in the driest summer ! — About a mile 
 from this place is 
 
 * The length of this range, by following the ziz-zajf direction of 
 its summit, is 40 miles. Suowdon is the highest, bfing 3568 feet 
 above the level of the sea. The second in altitude is Carnedd 
 Llywelj u, which is 3520 feet from the Caernarvon bay, being -298 
 feet higher than the Skiddaw in Cumberland, which is celebrated 
 for its height.
 
 8S A RAILAVAY COMPA>-ION 
 
 Meini Hirion, 
 
 One of the most remarkable monuments in all Snowdonia. It is 
 a circular intrenchment of 80 feet in diameter, with ten stones 
 standing on the outside, placed endways, the whole enclosed by 
 a stone wall. Near this are four other circulars, but smaller, 
 one of which shews the remains of a cromlech. Tradition says 
 that a bloody battle was fought here between the Romans and 
 the Britons, and that the carneddau, now visible, were raised 
 over the bodies of the Britons that fell. — On the right is 
 
 Puffin Island, 
 Which divides the channel, called the Sound, from the eastern 
 extremity of Anglesea. Its British name is " Ynys Seiriol," 
 from the residence of St. Seiriol upon it in the sixth century. 
 It is above a mile in length, and is inhabited by wild rabbits 
 and puffins, which congregate here in vast numbers. These 
 birds appear annually in the beginning of April, and lay but 
 one egg, which is hatched by the male and female sitting in 
 turns: about the middle of August they re- emigrate. During 
 their stay, a great number of the young are taken and pickled 
 in small casks, which, together with barreled oysters, forms a 
 source of traffic and emolument. If, on the water passing this 
 island, a gun is fired, the birds will rise in great clouds, as at 
 the Ormes Head. 
 
 In Collinson's " Coasting Pilot," published 1687, the road 
 from Conway to Beaumaris appears on one of the charts to be 
 along the sand about one mile distant from the shores extending 
 from Penmaen Bach to Aber. 
 
 The railway again skirts the sea for a considerable time 
 until it reaches 
 
 Llanfair Fechan, 
 A parish almost entirely the property of Sir R. Bulkeley. It 
 is remarkable for the beauty of its site, and the earliness of its 
 vegetable produce; here corn ripens three weeks earlier than 
 in any other part of Wales. Probably, this forwardness pro- 
 ceeds from the situation, rather than from richness of the soil. 
 Considerable agricultural improvements have taken place in 
 this neighbourhood within the last few years. Immediately 
 adjoining this parish and that of Aber, was formerly a large 
 tract of land, twelve miles in length and seven or eight in 
 breadth, which tradition says was in the possession of Llys 
 Helig ap Glanog. It was inundated in the sixth century, and
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 89 
 
 is now called Lavan Sands, or Traeth Lavan, A manuscript, 
 quoted by Llwyd in his Poem on Beaumaris Bay, written in 
 the time of James the First, contains a terrier and description 
 of various parcels of land situated in this vicinity, with their 
 valuation. Formerly there was a ferry between here and Beau- 
 maris. It was granted to the corporation of that town in the 
 fourth year of Elizabeth. 
 
 In ColHn's Book of Charts, already quoted, is a regular road 
 laid down across the sands between here and Beaumaris, which 
 would be eight or nine miles nearer than the present road. The 
 walk over the sands at low water is firm and good ; but great 
 precaution is necessary, for at high water they frequently shift, 
 and in many places prove dangerous and fatal. In foggy wea- 
 ther, a large bell was formerly rung at Aber, to direct travellers 
 towards the sound. 
 
 The next place we pass is the much-admired village of 
 
 Aber, 
 
 one of the temporary residences of our princes, nearly equi- 
 distant from two others, Aberffraw in Mona, and Maes Mynan 
 in FHntshire. Leland, in speaking of this place, says, " In the 
 wood, in the parish of Aber, Llywelyn ap lorweth had a house 
 on a hill, part of which now standeth." It is a most delightful 
 spot ; having on the right the wide opening of the Irish chan- 
 nel, before it Beaumaris and its wooded environs, and to the 
 left the turrets of Penrhyn castle. 
 
 A singular tradition connected with this place is rendered 
 into verse by the late Mr. Hutton, of Birmingham. 
 
 To a tragical incident let us remove, 
 Of deception and conquest, desti-uction and love. 
 At Aber resided a prince of high state, 
 His moat is yet standing, Llywelyn the great. 
 In his wars with the English, success was his doom, 
 He took a knight prisoner, and kept him at home. 
 A friendship succeeded, companions they were, 
 Whatever the prince eat, the knight had a share ; 
 The captive liad beauty ; the princess knew this ; 
 8he wish'd his embraces, he longed for a kiss. 
 When sentiments harmonize, 'tis but a door, 
 Which quickly will open, and introduce more. 
 If private embraces ensued, I profess 
 I'll give no opinion, but leave you to guess. 
 
 Pennant quotes from Dugdale that the above knight was 
 William de Breos, a potent baron in the reign of Henry the
 
 90 A RAILWAY COMPAXIOX 
 
 Third. Tradition informs us that de Breos was put to death 
 for his amorous conduct with the princess. 
 
 This melanchoUy incident happened in 1229. Llywelyn died 
 in 1240, His son afterwards married de Breos's daughter. 
 
 We examined the mound where Llywelyn's castle stood: it 
 is elevated about twenty-four feet, tapers, and is about sixty 
 feet in diameter. The vestiges of a moat and its feeder from 
 the river are also yet visible. 
 
 From this village, a deep and romantic glen, in length nearly 
 three miles, forms the avenue to Rhaiadr Mawr, a celebrated 
 cataract. 
 
 The Bulkeley Arms is an excellent inn, where the worthy 
 hostess, Mrs. Lewis, is always glad to see her friends, and 
 certainly endeavours to make them as glad and as comfort- 
 able as if they were at their own firesides. 
 
 In fine weather the clean and healthy town of Beaumaris, 
 and Baron Hill, the comfortable and attractive residence of Sir 
 R. Bulkeley, Bart. M.P., are seen across the water on the right. 
 The train soon comes in sight of 
 
 Penrhyn Castle. 
 " Nid ty, nid neuadd, ond hon." 
 No house, no hall, but this. 
 This truly magnificent castellated mansion is the property 
 and residence of the Hon, Col, Douglas Pennant, the member 
 for the county, who succeeded to this princely property in 
 right of his late lady, daughter of the late G. D, Pennant, Esq. 
 It was the residence of Roderi Molwynog, prince of Wales, in 
 720, and of several succeeding princes, till 1230, when Lly- 
 welyn dignified larddur ab Trahaiarn with the office of Great 
 Forester of Snowdon, and at the same time, with the liberality 
 of a prince, bestowed upon him the whole hundred of Llech- 
 wedd Uchav, 
 
 The family claim their descent from the princes of Wales^ 
 and a bard of 1460, speaking of the then residents, adds, 
 " Un llin a'i frenin fu'r ach." 
 His descent is the same as that of his sovereign. 
 
 Sir William GrufFydd, of Penrhyn, contemporary with Henry 
 the Eighth, attended that prince to the siege of Boulogne, in 
 France ; and possessing a very large property, lived in a style 
 of magnificent hospitality. It was no wonder, therefore, that 
 the pre-eminent splendour of this house was the favourite 
 theme of the Cambrian muse: —
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 91 
 
 "Abode of native chiefs, of bards the theme. 
 Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream, 
 And, phoenix-hke, in rising splendour drest. 
 Shews on its wide domain a regal crest." 
 
 Piers GrufFvdd, grand nephew to Sir William, sailed from 
 Beaumaris in April 1588, in his own ship, properly fitted out 
 for war, and, joinins; Sir Francis Drake, divided with other 
 patriots and heroes the glory of defeating the armada of Spain ; 
 but dying without male issue, the line of Gruffydd of Penrhyn 
 became extinct, but that of Cochwillan, from the same origin, 
 flourished in several branches in the county. — From that resi - 
 dent at Conway, was Dr. John WiUiams, Lord Keeper and 
 Archbishop of York, who 1620, again united the estates of 
 Penrhyn and Cochwillan; of this line also was William ab 
 Gruffydd ab Robin, when at the battle of Bosworth, at the 
 head of a troop of horse of his own retinue, had his share in 
 the honour of placing his relation, Henry VII. on the throne of 
 England. 
 
 The late G. Dawkins Pennant, Esq. inherited the estate from 
 Lord Penrhyn, and his daughter (now dead) gave her hand and 
 princely fortune to the Hon. Col. Douglas Pennant, M.P., who, 
 in consequence of his kind and courteous deportment, and the 
 r.Timeuse employment he affords to thousands of industrious 
 artizans, is exceedingly popular. He has lately married a 
 member of a ducal house, in the person of the fair and accom- 
 plished daughter of the Duke of Grafton. For further parti- 
 culars relative to this noble house and family, the reader is 
 referred to ' Parry's Guide to North Wales.' 
 
 The village of Llandegai is on the left. The church is en- 
 closed in Penrhyn park, surrounded with trees. It is a neat 
 cruciform structure, with a tower rising from the central angles, 
 and pleasantly situated upon an eminence above the river 
 Ogwen. Within the church is a marble monument to Arch- 
 bishop Williams, lord keeper of the great seal in the reign of 
 James the First; also an elegant one by Westmacott, to the 
 memory of Lord and Lady Penrhyn, which is particularly 
 elegant. 
 
 Battle of Llandegai. 
 
 During the civil wars in 1648, a severe battle took place at 
 Llandegai, between our loyal countryman, Sir John Owen, who, 
 with his humble number of men, 150 horse, and 120 foot, at- 
 tempted to stop the progress of the enemy — the parliamentary
 
 92 A RAILWAY CO^SIPANION 
 
 army under the command of Colonels Carter and Twistleton. 
 The parties met at Llandegai, close to Penrhyn castle, where a 
 severe engagement ensued. Sir John was overpowered by nu- 
 merical strength, and defeated ; about thirty of his men perished, 
 and he himself and a hundred others were taken prisoners. 
 Sir John was sent prisoner to Walmer castle, and was put on 
 his trial with the Duke of Hamilton, Loi'ds Holland, Goring, and 
 Cope. Sir John shewed a spirit worthy of his country; he 
 told his judges that he was a plain gentleman of Wales, who 
 had always been taught to obey the King : that he had served 
 him honestly during the war ; and finding many honest men 
 endeavouring to raise forces whereby they might get him out of 
 prison, he did the like. He was condemned to lose his head; 
 for which, with a humorous intrepidity, he made the court a 
 low reverence, and gave his humble thanks. A bystander asked 
 what he meant? He replied aloud: "It was a great honour 
 to a poor gentleman of Wales to lose his head with such noble 
 lords; for by G — , he was afraid they would have hanged 
 him ! " Sir John was deprived of " the honour" he was flat- 
 tered with ; strong remonstrances were made in parliament on 
 behalf of the noble lords ; but finding no one speak in favour 
 of Sir John, Ireton proved his advocate: he told the house, 
 " there was one person for whom no one spoke a word, and 
 therefore he requested that he might be saved by the sole mo- 
 tive and goodness of the house." He was pardoned, and retired 
 to Wales, where he died in 1666. Upon this the whole of 
 North Wales became subject to parliament. A monument was 
 erected to his memory at Penmorfa church, Caernarvonshire. 
 
 KicH Panoramic Views, Cambrian Alps, etc. 
 
 The prospect around here is truly pleasing, affording some fine 
 romantic views from the Nant Francon and Snowdonian moun- 
 tains on the one hand, and the demesne of Penrhyn Castle, the 
 Menai Straits, and the coast of Anglesea, on the other, forming 
 a rich panoramic view of splendid scenery such as to baffle all 
 description. 
 
 Viaduct over the Ogwen. 
 
 The line is carried over the Ogwen river and valley by two 
 extensive viaducts, consisting of twenty-four arches of masonry 
 and centre arches, being 35 feet in height. The foundations of 
 the buttresses of the arch are laid 35 feet deep. The view of 
 Penrhyn castle and park on the right, and the everlasting hill§
 
 FUOM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 93 
 
 of Snowdonia on the left, are seen from here to the greatest 
 perfection, and have a beautiful effect. The line again plunges 
 into the bowels of the earth, and traverses through the abode 
 of departed spirits, where darkness alone is visible. 
 
 Llandegai Tunnel. 
 
 This tunnel is cut through the Llandegai hills, commencing 
 at the west end of what is termed the Ogwen cutting, and its 
 length is 440 yards. This tunnel is arched over with brick 
 work. No sooner do the carriages get through this tunnel 
 than the train enters on the 
 
 Viaduct over the Cegid. 
 
 This extends over the valley and river Cegid 200 yards in 
 length. It is supported by nine arches, 62 feet above the level 
 of the stream. On the right is 
 
 Penrhyn Port. 
 
 It is impossible to state the vast improvements that are con- 
 stantly taking place at this port. Considerable additions have 
 been made during the last few years, under the good taste and 
 careful management of Mr. Wyatt. It is constructed in the 
 most commodious manner for the shipment of slates, which are 
 brought here by railway from the quarry, about six miles dis- 
 tant. The quay is upwards of 1000 feet in length, and capa- 
 ble of accommodating more than 100 sail of traders; and there 
 are generally a considerable number of vessels of from 40 to 
 300 tons burden, from various parts of the world, waiting to 
 receive their cargoes. — The line again enters into the bowels 
 of the earth through 
 
 Bangor Tunnel. 
 
 This is cut at the depth of from 160 to 200 yards, through 
 the Bangor mountains, and its length is nearly 1000 yards. 
 Here the work has been excessively laborious, the tunnel hav- 
 ing to be cut through solid rock, chiefly of iron slate of the 
 hardest description, the dislodgment being entirely effected by 
 blasting — consequently great care had to be exercised. The 
 whole of this range of mountains consists of rocks to the sum- 
 mits, not more than two feet of earth being found over any 
 portion of them. Immediately after passing through the tun- 
 nel, the carriages reach
 
 94 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 BANGOK STATION. 
 
 This is one of the largest, the most attractive, as well as 
 the most im.portant station on the line between Chester and 
 Holyhead. It is beautiful in design, and admirable in its pro- 
 portions ; and like all the other stations on this line, exceed- 
 ingly well adapted for the convenience of the public, as well as 
 for the purposes of developing the facilities of trade and traffic 
 which are the characteristics of the railway system. It was 
 designed by Mr. Francis Thompson, who is also the architect 
 for the whole of the stations on the line. It was built by Mr. 
 Morris, Birkenhead. The length of this station is 137 feet, 
 and that of the platform is 260 feet. This station occupies 
 nearly all the intermediate space between the Bangor and Bel- 
 mont tunnels. It stands on an elevation, and commands a fine 
 view of Bangor, the ocean, and Puffin island. The entrance 
 to both tunnels is in the massive Egyptian style, designed by 
 Mr. Foster, the resident engineer of this portion of the line. 
 
 This Snowdonian city is situated in a warm valley, between 
 two abrupt ridges, and has within these few years participated 
 in the general spirit of improvement so evident throughout the 
 Principality. The trade of Bangor is considerably increased, 
 and within the last twenty years the population has been quad- 
 rupled. The influx of strangers is very great, especially since 
 the erection of the Menai bridge, which has attracted numerous 
 visitors to see this most remarkable monument of human inge- 
 nuity : and when the railway tube is put up at the Britannia 
 bridge, the attraction will be greater than ever. 
 
 The inns, which are numerous, afford the very best accom- 
 modation: post chaises, cars, carriages, &c. are in frequent 
 motion, and in great demand, by vast numbers of visitors who 
 reside here during the greatest portion of the year. The 
 Penrhyn Arms Hotel is the largest establishment, and equal 
 to any in the metropolis : it makes upwards of a hundred beds 
 a night. The Castle Hotel and Liverpool Arms, are very 
 comfortable inns. Bangor supports three banks, and has its stated 
 fairs and weekly markets, which are well supplied with every 
 commodity. 
 
 The name Bangor, which means High Choir, was no doubt 
 given to this place in imitation and memory of that celebrated 
 monastery and college, Bangor Is-y-coed, in Flintshire, which 
 was demolished by a Saxon king, named Ethelfred, assisted by 
 another prince, named Ethelbert; who, not contented with the
 
 FROM CHESTER TO IIOLYIIEAI). 95 
 
 destruction of the edifices, put to the sword all the religious 
 men that the soldiers could meet with in that seminary of 
 learning. It is said that two thousand persons who studied 
 the sciences and led religious lives, fell on that day; fifty 
 only escaped the massacre, and those fled to the Isle of Bard- 
 sey, and there spent the remainder of their days in religious 
 exercises. 
 
 The historian Cressy states that Malgo Conan built a city, 
 which for the beauty of its situation he called Bancor. It is 
 situated at the mouth of the Menai, near its opening to the 
 Lavan sands. All historians agree that the bishopric of Bangor 
 is one of the most ancient in Britain. 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 About the year 516, one Daniel, the son of Dynawd Fur, 
 who was the son of Pabo, surnamed Post Prydain (the Pillar of 
 Britain), from his prowess in the wars against the Saxons, first 
 founded here a renowned college for the instruction of youth, 
 and soon after it was made a bishopric by the King Maelgwyn 
 Gwynedd, upon which he bestowed lands and other gifts, and 
 he caused Daniel to be consecrated its first bishop, by Dyfrig, 
 archbishop of Caerlleon-ar-wysg ; he filled the episcopal chair 
 till he died, in the year 554, and lies buried at Bardsey 
 Island. 
 
 This cathedral was destroyed by an English army in 1071, 
 and afterwards built by King John in 1211. It sustained con- 
 sidei'able injury, with the cathedral of St. Asaph, in 1247, in 
 the wars between Henry the Third and the Welsh. In 1402, 
 it was burnt down by the rage of Owen Glyndwr (who was 
 infuriated by his wrongs and sufferings,) and lay unrestored 
 90 years. In 1416, the choir was restored by Bishop Deane; 
 but it may be supposed that the repairs he made were but 
 slight and temporary, when it required to be re-built in little 
 more than thirty years after. The present cathedral was 
 erected in the time of Henry the Seventh. The inscription on 
 the west side of the steeple tower has on it the name of a 
 Thomas Skevington, anno 1532; this person being then the 
 bishop of this diocese. 
 
 Some considerable improvements were made in the cathedral 
 in 1827. Upwards of £2000 were collected in different parts 
 of the united kingdom, through the praiseworthy and indefe- 
 tigable exertions of the Rev. J, H. Cotton, now the dean of
 
 96 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 Bangor ; the whole of which has been expended in the most 
 beneficial and tasteful manner, under his superintendence, and 
 •will remain a lasting monument of his zeal and perseverance. 
 Some years ago the citizens of Bangor originated a token of 
 respect to this venerable dignitary, for the many benefits con- 
 ferred on them and the neighbourhood. The very rev. gentle- 
 man, with his characteristic regard for the fabric, as well as 
 for the doctrines and utility of the establishment, devoted it to 
 ornamenting the cathedral with a splendid painted window, a 
 lasting memorial of the respect and veneration in which he is 
 held, and of his laudable disinterestedness in advancing the 
 interests of that church to which he is so ardently attached 
 and which, by the graceful tenor of his life, he so beneficially 
 adorns. 
 
 Attractions of the Neighbourhood of Bangor. 
 
 The beauty of the surrounding scenery, and the salubrity of 
 the air, induce many families of respectability to fix their resi- 
 dence here; and some elegant villas are scattered around this 
 charming spot in every direction. Several genteel houses have 
 lately been erected at Garthpoint, from which are some of the 
 most pleasing and magnificent views in this neighbourhood. 
 
 The environs of Bangor possess great diversity of walks, 
 rides, and excursions ; a stranger may spend several days here 
 very pleasantly. The objects of curiosity and attraction are 
 inexhaustible, being conveniently situated as regards convey- 
 ance by land and water. Parties may make excursions to the 
 Menai bridge, Penrhyn castle, the slate quarries, Beaumaris, 
 Puffin Island, Caernarvon, Plas Newydd, Snowdon, &c., all of 
 which are but a short distance from the town. To save time 
 and expense parties should take a car, and view a dozen places 
 during the day. 
 
 Distances from Bangor. 
 
 Beaumaris, via Bridge. 7 
 
 Caernarvon 9 
 
 Holyhead 24 
 
 Conway 15 
 
 Slate Quarries 6 
 
 Capel Curig 14| 
 
 There are but few strangers who come to Bangor without 
 paying a visit to 
 
 The Slate Quarries 
 
 At Nant Francon, the property of the Hon. Col. Douglas
 
 FRO>I CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 97 
 
 Pennant, of Penrhyn Castle, M.P. They were discovered as 
 far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth, but were not ren- 
 dered profitable until the late Lord Penrhyn, at the suggestion 
 of the Rev. Mr. Dawson, uncle to the Earl of Portarlington, 
 took them in hand, by whom the quarries were opened at a 
 great expense, and they are now worked with considerable 
 spirit, by the present proprietor, under the management of Mr. 
 Wyatt. From 1,800 to 2,000 men are constantly employed 
 in the quarries: it is computed that from 800 to 1,000 tons of 
 slate are daily conveyed down to Port Penrhyn, which pro- 
 duces the ovmer a princely income. 
 
 In one place the workmen are seen in hundreds suspended 
 by ropes at a considerable height from above, against the pre- 
 cipitous side of the rock, busily employed in splitting down 
 every projecting shelf of the blue slate. In another, persons 
 are employed in boring and blasting the rock with powder, 
 others are employed in removing the rubbish, and numbers 
 occupied in splitting the detached masses, and cutting them 
 into various sizes, denominated duchesses, countesses, ladies, 
 &c. ; which names were bestowed upon them in 1765, by Gen- 
 eral Warburton. 
 
 A few years ago the editor of this guide had the pleasure of 
 being in the quarry at the same time as the Duke and Duchess 
 of St. Albans, and at the request of her grace he accompanied 
 them through the different departments. On being informed 
 that duchesses were manufactured there, her grace immediately 
 expressed a wish to see the ceremony performed, which to her 
 great surprise was no sooner said than done ; and the workman 
 presented her grace with a full-size duchess. Her grace laughed 
 heartily at the manner in which it was done, and in return 
 gave the workman half a sovereign. The party retired much 
 gratified with their visit. 
 
 The process of slitting and cutting the slates to their various 
 sizes, is performed with astonishing rapidity ; and the blasting 
 of the rock, and the sound of the explosion, rattles through 
 the extensive levels vdth terrific grandeur. In the neighbour- 
 hood of the quarries is the village of Bethesda, which is fast 
 increasing in wealth and population. Within a mile of the 
 quarries is Ogwen Bank, the beautiful cottage of the late Lady 
 Penrhyn, and the occasional resort of Col. Pennant, when pay- 
 ing a morning visit to the quarries. This neat pavillion, says 
 Llwyd, is the " Eden of the mountain."
 
 98 A KAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 Nant Francon, 
 
 In the immediate vicinity of the quarries, is the celebrated 
 Nant Francon, so beautifully described by Mr. Burke, in his 
 Beauties of Nature, vol. 1, p. 209. "If you would be sub- 
 limely captivated," says that gentleman, " visit Nant Francon 
 or Nant Gwynant. Eange along these crags and precipices, 
 vphere rocks are reared in fantastic style, even to the clouds; 
 and where nature, bold and rough, ' sits alone, majestic on her 
 craggy throne.' May he, who is capable of viewing Nant 
 Francon,' and beholding it with indifference, stand at the bottom 
 of the glen — a marble monument of his indifference ! " 
 
 The ride from here to Llyn Ogwen is very solitaiy, awful, 
 and magnificent ; the mountains on either side rise rather ab- 
 ruptly, to an astonishing altitude ; and their aspect, in many 
 places, is rugged, bold, and terrific. 
 
 Those parties who wish to proceed to Capel Curig, will find 
 it a most splendid drive, and the scenery very beautiful; but, 
 according to the plan we set out with, we must coiifine our- 
 selves to the limits proposed at the commencement. 
 
 On quitting Bangor station, we almost immediately enter 
 the Egpytian arch to 
 
 Belmont Tunnel, 
 under what is called the Caernarvon mountains; it is 726 
 yards long, and has four shafts : the work has been equally 
 severe, passing through rock of the same description as that 
 , at Bangor. The roof of the last two tunnels remain in the 
 natural state as cut through. The end of the tunnel will 
 bring us to a very pleasing and animating sight — the Menai 
 iitraits, with its accompaniments, Telford's suspension bridge, 
 and the iron tubular bridge. 
 
 We are indebted to Mr. George Grove, C.E., for the follow- 
 ing interesting and scientific account of the 
 
 Great Britannia Tubular Bridge. 
 
 To appreciate most justly the colossal dimensions both of the 
 span and height of this bridge, a view should be taken of it as 
 nearly as possible at right angles to its length, and at sufficient 
 distance to allow the eye to comprise the whole structure as a 
 part of the landscape. Such a view can be had to advantage 
 on both sides of the bridge: on the one, on the road leading 
 from the Menai bridge to the Llanfair station in Anglesea; and 
 on the other, from about the middle of the platform on which
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 99 
 
 the tubes are being built. Perhaps from the latter place the 
 effect is more striking. We will suppose the reader standing 
 there, and, disregarding for the present the tubes close to him, he 
 will see that the bridge consists of four spans or openings, to 
 be crossed by tubes — eight in all, i.e. one tube for each hne of 
 rails. The centre tower is called the Britannia tower, from the 
 rock on which it stands, which is visible at low water; the pier 
 and abutment on either hand bearing the name of the Caernar- 
 von or Anglesea land-tower and abutment. 
 
 The clear distance between the face of the abutment and of 
 the land-tower is 230 feet ; between that of the land-towers and 
 of the Britannia tower, 460 feet; making the whole distance 
 bridged over by tubes, 1380 feet: add to this, that the abutments 
 are each 173 feet, the land-towers each 32 feet, and the Britan- 
 nia tower 46, and the whole length of this wonderful bridge, 
 at rail level, from Hon to lion, is 1836 feet, rather more than 
 the third part of a mile. The bottom of the tubes, when fixed, 
 will be 100 feet above the high water mark, the same as the 
 Menai bridge. 
 
 We recommend those of our readers who have nerve and 
 resolution enough, to climb one of the land-towers, and, ad- 
 vancing as nearly as possible to the edge of the stone-work, in 
 the opening intended for the tube, to look across the gulf be- 
 tween their standing place and the Britannia tower, and then 
 form their own judgment. It is the only way of really appre- 
 ciating the vastness and daring of the undertaking, and is well 
 worth a trial. From this height the appearance of the four 
 large tubes on their platforms is very striking. It is difficult, 
 while looking at them thence, not to recal Wordsworth's 
 grand figure, which will apply to them quite as vividly as to 
 the " huge stone" which gave occasion to it. 
 
 As a huge stone is sometimes seen to lie, 
 Couched on the top of a bald eminence; 
 Wonder to all who do the same espy, 
 By what means it could hither come, or whence ; 
 So that it seems a thing endued with sense, 
 Like a sea-beast crawled forth that on a shelf 
 Of rock or sand reposeth, there to sun itself. 
 
 We shall help our London readers to some more intimate 
 knowledge of the huge size of these great structures, if we 
 remind them that " The Monument" would not reach half the 
 distance they are now looking over, and that if one of the tubes 
 could be set up on its end, it would be high enough to overtop
 
 100 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 not only the cross of Saint Paul's, but the far-famed Salisbury- 
 spire itself. 
 
 The Britannia tower is as yet incomplete. When finished, 
 it will be of the great height of 257 feet from its foundation, 
 or 230 from high water; at its base it is 62 feet by 52. The 
 land towers are about 200 feet high from their foundation, and 
 of breadth and length 62 by 39. The material of which these 
 and the abutments are chiefly built, is a very hard fossiliferous 
 mountain limestone, known as Anglesea marble, capable of re- 
 ceiving a high polish. Entirely new quarries were opened for 
 the stone for this bridge; they lie on the north side of the 
 island. Some of the blocks are of enormous size, the largest 
 weighing 12 tons, and measuring 16 feet in length, by 4 feet 
 and 2 feet 6 inches in breadth and depth. Stone of a less hard 
 nature is employed for parts not exposed to the action of the 
 weather. Of this marble are also formed the colossal lions, 
 which, couched at each end, seem to be guarding the entrance 
 to these caverns of wonder. Their size is liable to be greatly 
 mistaken until they are nearly approached, and the reader will 
 be astonished to know that their length is 25 feet, and 
 their height 12, the weight of each being 30 tons. The eye is 
 of the size of a man's head, A very effective and truthful 
 print of these Uons in course of sculpture was given in the 
 Illustrated News of Jan. 13, 1849. Before leaving this part of 
 the bridge, we would entreat our readers not to omit noticing 
 the magnificent scaffolding on which the small or land-tubes 
 are being built. That on the Anglesea side is 100 feet in 
 height : as a piece of constructive ingenuity, it would be diifi- 
 cult to say too much of it; but its exceeding picturesqueness 
 gives it a great charm for the non-scientific observer, whose 
 attention needs but to be drawn to it for this to be at once 
 seen. Its appearance from this point of view is very striking. 
 
 In order thoroughly to understand the construction of the 
 Tubes, it is necessary, if possible, to walk through one of them; 
 and on first entering, the perspective of the interior, with the 
 regular upi-ight lines of the sides, the corner-pieces in the an- 
 gles,* and the cross-pieces at the bottom, all fading away gra- 
 dually from the eye till lost in the gloom, is very charming. 
 The tube will be seen to be constructed entirely of long narrow 
 plates, varying from 6 to 12 feet in length, and from 1 ft. 9 to 
 
 * Technically called gusset-pieces ; a name, the fitness of which 
 our lady-readers may decide on.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO IIOIA'IIEAD. 101 
 
 2 feet in width. These run up and down in the sides, and 
 lengthwise in the top and bottom. The manner of joining the 
 side plates will well repay a httle attention. The projecting 
 strips which occur so regularly are pieces of ii'on in section like 
 a "Y, which are put opposite one another inside and out; the 
 rivets passing through both the strips and the plates between 
 them: thus, wherever there is a joint, by the use of this "J* 
 iron, a pillar of great strength is formed, adding greatly to the 
 stability of the sides. The joints between the sides and top or 
 bottom plates are formed rather differently, as will be seen on 
 examination, our limits not permitting a description. The gus- 
 set-pieces are of service in resisting cross or twisting strains 
 such as will be given by the wind to the tube in its exposed 
 destination : whilst on the bottom cross-pieces are to rest the 
 chairs for the rails. But the main strength of the tubes re- 
 sides in the top and bottom, which will be seen to be double, 
 being divided into cells or compartments, rumiing continuously 
 from end to end. The whole length of each of the four large 
 tubes is 470 feet. Their height is greatest at the ends which 
 are to rest on the Britannia tower, being there 30 feet outside 
 and 26 insiile, and decreasing to 27 ft. 2 outside, and 23 ft. 2 
 inside, at the ends borne by the land-towers. This rise in the 
 top of the tubes is in a regular parabolic curve. The width 
 outside is 14 ft. 8^, inside 14 feet. The thickness of the plates 
 variess Hghtly; in the top it is thickest in the centre, being 
 there three-quarters of an inch : in the sides it is rather thickest 
 at the ends, being generally half an inch. There will be 
 2,000,000 rivets in the entire bridge. The weight of the 
 wrought iron in each tube is about 1600 tons. For the pur- 
 pose of attaching the hfting chains for raising the tubes into 
 their places, strong cast-iron frames, with cross girders of the 
 same material, are fitted into each end. Including these, the 
 weight of each large tube will be about 1800 tons, and of each 
 small tube about 700: the total weight of the whole of the 
 iron work being 10,000 tons, equal to that of the inhabitants 
 of a city containing 200,000 people. 
 
 But, notwithstanding all the wonders we have mentioned, 
 the most remarkable of all will be the operation of securely 
 floating so huge and apparently so unmanageable a mass as one 
 of these tubes to the foot of the piers, and then afterwards 
 raising 1800 tons a height of more than 100 feet: and as 
 many of our readers may not have had the good fortune to wit- 
 
 H
 
 102 A KAiLWAY coMPAxio:sr 
 
 ness these operations — similar, but on a much smaller scalc'-^ 
 at Conway, we will not end without describing, in a few words, 
 what we are given to understand will be the course followed. 
 One tube will be floated at a time. Huge capstans will be 
 erected at different points along both shores, with large hawsers 
 leading to the tube, so arranged as to guide it, without 
 possibihty of error, to its position between and at the foot of 
 the piers. Shortly before high water, on the morning of the 
 operation, a number of large, flat, close pontoons will be floated 
 under the tube, which — the tide still rising — will be borne and 
 entirely lifted by them from off the supports on which it is at 
 present upheld. Then, by the action of the hawsers, it will be 
 pulled out into the stream, and floated along by the tide until 
 it be safely guided into its position : by this time the tide will 
 have ceased rising, and as it falls will leave the tube supported 
 on a shelf of stone constructed for the purpose at the foot of 
 each tower. From this it will be pulled up through the vast 
 height to its ultimate position, by a hydraulic press of enor- 
 mous power at each end, the presses being placed above the 
 tube on iron beams built into the masonry, and having depen- 
 dent chains attached through the top of the tube to the cast 
 iron frames before mentioned.* 
 
 This most interesting operation is intended to take place in 
 the course of the coming summer. We can hardly wish our 
 readers a greater pleasure than that they may witness it. 
 
 The execution of this vast project has been entrusted by Mr. 
 Stephenson to his two assistants, Mr. Frank Forster and Mr. 
 Edwin Clark: the former havino; the charge of the stone 
 
 * For more complete details we refer our readers to the work 
 about to be published on the subject of these bridges. 
 
 " Preparing for publication by subscription, in 8vo. with the sanction 
 and under the immediate supervision of Robert Stephenson, 
 Esq., Civil Engineer, 
 A description of the Conway and Britannia Tubular Bridges, designed 
 for the Chester and Holyhead Railway Company. By Edwin Clabk, 
 Engineer. Including an historical account of the Design and Erec- 
 tion ; details of the preliminary Experiments with the Theories 
 deduced from them ; also, general enquiries on Beams, and on the 
 application of rivetted wrought-iron Plates to pui-poses of Construc- 
 tion ; with practical Rules and Deductions, illustrated by Experiments. 
 With a folio volume of Plates and Drawings, illustrative of the pro- 
 gress of the Works. Price, £3. 3s. Od. Proof copies, £4. 14s. 6d. 
 Subscribers' names received by Mr. Edwin Clark, Britannia Bridge, 
 Bangor ; or Mr. T. Catherall, Eastgate-row, Chester."
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 103 
 
 work, &c., as well as of the line generally, between Conway and 
 Holyhead; the latter, as at Conway, of the iron work and 
 operations for floating and raising. The lions were carved by 
 Mr. Thomas, of the new houses of parliament. Messrs. 
 Nowell & Co. are the contractors for the masonry; Mr. Mare, 
 of Blackwall, and Messrs. Garforth, of Dukenfield, for the 
 tubes; Messrs. Easton & Amos, for the raising apparatus; 
 Messrs. Howard & Kavenhill, for the chains for lifting ; and 
 the Bank Quay Foundry, Warrington, for the cast iron work. 
 The greatest number of men employed at one time on the 
 works was about 2000. 
 
 The Grand Suspension Bridge. 
 
 Of this stupendous and elegant bridge, whatever idea may 
 have been previously formed of its size, from reading the di- 
 mensions, or hearing it described, all will be found to fall short 
 of the reality : all the faculties seem absorbed in wonder and 
 astonishment at the extraordinary magnitude of the erection. 
 When looking up from the base of the piers that form the ap- 
 proach to the bridge, the beholder is struck with amazement at 
 the ponderous masses : when on the suspended part, and look- 
 ing down from the dizzy height, the same sensation is excited ; 
 every thing is gigantic, yet light and elegant. The bridge at 
 Conway pleases; this surprises: that is large; but as every 
 thing is great or small by comparison, this sinks the other into 
 comparative insignificance. A ship of 300 tons burden, with 
 all her sails set, can pass under it, and have several feet to 
 spare. When the wind blows with any degree of strength, a 
 slight undulating motion is very discernible to a person not on 
 it; but no visible effect is produced by the passing of the 
 heaviest carriages. 
 
 The dimensions of the bridge are as follow: extreme length 
 of the chain, from the fastening in the rocks, about 1715 feet; 
 height of roadway from high water line, 100 feet; each of the 
 seven small piers, from highwater Une to the spring of the 
 arches, 65 feet; span of each arch, 52^ feet; each of the sus- 
 pending piers are 153 feet from high water, and 53 feet from 
 the road. The road on the bridge consists of two carriage 
 ways of 12 feet each, with a footpath of 4 i'eet in the centre; 
 the length of the suspended path from the pier is 653 feet ; 
 the carriage road passes through two arches in the suspended 
 piers, of the width of 9 feet, by 15 in height, to the spring of
 
 104 A RAILWAY C05IPANI0N 
 
 the arches. The chains, 16 in number, consist of 5 bars eacbj 
 length of the bar 10 feet, width 3 inches, by one inch thick, 
 with six connecting lengths at each joint, 1 foot 4 inches, by 8 
 inches, and 1 inch thick, secured by two bolts at each joint, 
 each bolt weighing about 50 pounds. The total number of the 
 bars in the cross section of the chain is 80; and the total 
 weight of the iron work 4,373,281 pounds. 
 
 Ride to Beaumaris. 
 
 The late munificent Lord Bulkeley supplied, at a vast ex- 
 pense, an excellent carriage road from the bridge to Beaumaris, 
 along the shelving side of the hill, a considerable height above 
 highwater mark. In advancing on the road, the charming bay 
 gradually expands, presenting a succession of unrivalled pic- 
 turesque and sublime scenery. 
 
 The road is studded with mansions and marine villas : Cad- 
 nant, the seat of John Price, Esq. ; Craig-y-don, the seat of 
 T.P.Williams, Esq. M.P.; Glan Menai, the seat of H. Ro- 
 berts, Esq. ; and Glyn Garth, the seat of H. Beaver, Esq. The 
 road runs along the edge of rocks, which are dashed by the 
 waves below, forming a beautiful terrace, &c.,well clothed with 
 wood for about four miles, and commanding a fine view of the 
 Menai Straits and the whole range of the Snowdonian moun- 
 tains ; rendering it one of the most charming rides imaginable. 
 
 BEAUMARIS. 
 
 This highly respectable and pleasant town is considered the 
 capital of the island, and is beautifully situated on the banks 
 of the Menai. It occupies a full half of a semi-lunar bay, 
 formed by projections, one called the Green, the other the 
 Point, which, until lately, was the station of the ferry-boat to 
 Aber and Bangor. The town, within the walls, is formed of 
 two great streets crossing each other as near to the cardinal 
 points as the situation would admit of. In the centre is the 
 the town-hall, a handsome and convenient edifice, the produce 
 of a subscription : the ground in front is occupied by shops, 
 over which is an elegant assembly-room, town council chamber, 
 and other civic offices. 
 
 The civic affairs of the town are conducted by a mayor, 
 recorder, two bailiffs, and twenty-one common councilmen. It 
 had the privilege of sending one member to parhament. By
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 105 
 
 the recent parliamentary reform act, a share in this privilege 
 is extended to the towns of Amlwch, Holyhead, and Llangefni. 
 
 The Castle, 
 
 which is in a tolerable state of preservation, is one of the 
 great fortresses bailt by Edward the First, to hold in awe his 
 unwilling subjects on both sides of the Menai. It is included 
 within the domains of Baron Hill, and is situated at the north 
 extremity of the town. The ground about it is enclosed, and 
 converted into an excellent bowling-green and a ball-court. 
 
 We have heard from excellent authority, of its being the 
 intention of Sir Richard B. W. Bulkeley to repair the whole, 
 and restore portions of Beaumaris castle. If such munificent 
 intentions be carried into eifect, the whole principality will be 
 under fresh obligations to tlie noble and public-spirited family, 
 whose name is identified with Mona and its capital. 
 
 Close to the castle-gates are the old county-hall and other 
 suitable offices, where the assizes are held. — Within the ruins 
 of the castle, there is an area, 190 feet square, in which was 
 held, in August, 1832, a splendid congress of bards, or 
 
 Royal Eisteddfod, 
 
 Under the munificent patronage of Sir Richard Bulkeley, Bart. 
 It was attended by most of the nobility and gentry of the 
 neighbouring counties; and what gave peculiar eclat to the 
 meeting, was the presence of her Most Gracious INIajesty (then 
 Princess Victoria) and H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent, who had 
 been residing in this neighbourhood during the summer months. 
 Her Majesty invested with her own hands the successful candi- 
 dates with elegant silver medals, having the royal arms and an 
 incription engraved on them to commemorate the event. 
 
 The hotels and inns here are exceedingly good ; the Williams 
 Bulkeley Hotel is a magnificent establishment, equal to any in 
 England. This hotel has lately been erected by the proprietor. 
 Sir R. Bulkeley. In a large room in this house is a picture 
 gallery, containing portraits of all the controllers of the Beau- 
 maris hunt. The Liverpool Arms, and Commercial Inn, 
 are also houses where good accommodation may be had. 
 This place is surrounded with elegant mansions, and the neigh- 
 bourhood is rich in antiquities.
 
 ]06 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 Baron Hill. 
 
 On a gentle eminence, in the front of an extensive wood 
 which shades it from the north, is Baron Hill, the elegant and 
 much-admired mansion of Sir Richard B. Wilhams Bulkeley, 
 Bart. M.P. for the county, commanding a lawn that slopes 
 down to the Menai, terminated only by the sublime ridge of 
 Arvon, having on its breast two parishes ; a prospect particu- 
 larly interesting to the proprietor, and reminds us of one of the 
 boasts of Lucullus, the Roman senator, " I love my Apennine 
 ■villa, for much of what I see from its windows happens to be 
 my own." 
 
 "We hie where Baron Hill atti'acts the muse, 
 The sunny glades, the brow, and varied views — 
 Isles, towns, the rising hills, the spreading bay. 
 The muse, delighted, owns the grand display : 
 For Ai't and Nature here their beauties blend. 
 And Taste and Bulkeley for the palm contend." 
 
 Sir Richard is deservedly lauded for his efforts to improve 
 the agriculture of his native county, by the introduction of 
 modern and scientific culture. The prospect from the terrace 
 here baffles all description; nothing can exceed this view; it 
 surpasses all others, and is justly the boast of the principality. 
 The sublime scenery from the green below is seen from here to 
 far greater advantage. 
 
 Splendid View of Beaujviaris Bay. 
 This view at full tide pre^nts a noble expanse of ocean, 
 nearly surrounded by an extensive range of some of the loftiest 
 mountains in the principality. On the extreme left is seen 
 Puffin Island, which, by a narrow sound, divides Anglesea from 
 the sea; from thence the eye glances over a wide expanse of 
 water down to the estuary of the Conway, where the Great 
 Ormes Head stretches far into the bosom of the sea; and 
 P.enmaen Bach and Penmaen Mawr raise their majestic heads 
 almost perpendicularly from the water. To the right is seen 
 "the cloud-capt towers" of Carnedds Davydd and Llywelyn; 
 immediately below is the village of Aber, and the majestic 
 towers of Penrhyn castle, embosomed in a splendid park, co- 
 vered with wood of ancient date. On the extreme right are seen 
 the Menai Straits, with its richly wooded and cultivated shores, 
 terminating with those wondrous specimens of human skill, the 
 Menai suspension and tubular bridges. At sunset the scene is
 
 FKOM CHESTEU TO HOLYHKAD. 1(17 
 
 more glorious still : the horizontal rays of the declining orb add 
 greatly to the beauty of the scenery. Mountains and rocks 
 continually change their hue ; now the shadow of a dark cloud 
 sweeps swiftly along the brow of the hills, followed by a thin 
 veil of mists; then the sun's bright rays again break forth in 
 all their former brillianc)^ and render the view one of surpass- 
 ing beauty! 
 
 Tke'r Castell, 
 
 An ancient castellated mansion, formerly the residence of 
 Marchudd, founder of one of the royal tribes of Wales. Here 
 lived, in a style of magnificent hospitahty. Sir Tudor ap Goron- 
 wy. Of this distinguished character, the following anecdote is 
 recorded in Welsh history: — 
 
 The king, Edward the First, hearing that Sir Tudor had 
 assumed the honour of knighthood without his permission, 
 called him to account for so extraordinary a procedure. Sir 
 Tudor replied, that by the laws of the round table, he had a 
 right to do so, having the three requisites : first, he was a gen- 
 tleman ; secondly, he had an ample fortune ; and, thirdly, as to 
 his prowess, he was ready to fight any man, be he whom he 
 may, that was hardy enough to dispute it. The king, admir- 
 ing the dignity of his manner, confirmed to Sir Tudor the ho- 
 nour he had so justly assumed and so well deserved. 
 
 Sir Tudor was one of the great proprietors who, holding 
 their estates in capite, did homage to Edward, pi-ince of Wales, 
 at Chester, the 29th of Edward the First. His three sons 
 were, in their time, styled the three temporal lords of Anglesea, 
 viz. Ednyfed of Tre'r Castell, Gronwy of Pen-mynydd, and 
 Rhys of Arddreinog. The three spiritual lords being the arch- 
 deacon of Anglesea, the president of Holyhead, and the prior 
 of Penmon. 
 
 On this domain is supposed to have been fought, in 818, 
 the " sore battle of Llanvaes," between Egbert, king of the 
 West Saxons, and Merfyn Frych, king of Wales. In the vici- 
 nity is 
 
 Castell Aber Lleiniog, 
 Where there are still vestiges of a small ancient fort, at the 
 back of a neat farm-house, near the sea-beach. This fortress 
 was founded by Hugh Lupus, the fat Earl of Chester, and 
 Hugh, the red-headed Earl of Shrewsbury, when they leagued 
 together against the Welsh, attacked Anglesea, and committed
 
 108 A RAILWAY COMP^VNIOX 
 
 more savage barbarities on the poor natives than ever stained 
 the annals of any country. 
 
 Trip by Steam-boat from Menai Bridge to 
 Caernarvon. 
 
 Having described the shores of the ]Menai as far as Beauma- 
 ris and its interesting neighbourhood on the one side, we will 
 now attempt to pay the same compliment and proceed as far as 
 Caernarvon on the other side: in doing so, we will avail our- 
 selves of the facilities offered by the steam-packets, and make 
 the trip by water. The first object that presents itself on the 
 right, after passing the bridge, resting as it were on the edge 
 of this splendid river, is the elegant mansion of 
 
 Plas Newydd, 
 
 The seat of the most noble the marquis of Anglesea. This 
 grand edifice is beautifully shaded with an extensive forest of 
 wood, of unknown date, and commanding a fine prospect of the 
 Snowdonian mountains. This splendid house is an elegant 
 modern structure, and exhibits a great display of judicious 
 taste. The front is composed of a centre and two wings, the 
 former nearly semi -lunar, and the latter octangular. At each 
 angle of the sides and wings an octangular turret rises from 
 the basement, above the embattled parapet several feet, termi- 
 nating in a small spire surmounted by a vane. The entrance 
 hall on the north side of the building is lofty; but, from its 
 gothic doors, niches, and other recesses with pointed arches, has 
 been taken for a chapel. In the front of the entrance is a col- 
 onnade, enriched with tabernacle work, over which a passage 
 forms a communication with the different apartments; the 
 whole is lighted by a flat lanthorn dome. This edifice is built 
 of marble from the quarries of Moelfre, near Red Wharf Bay; 
 the plan of execution reflects great credit upon the architect, 
 Mr. Potter, of Lichfield. 
 
 George IV. and afterwards Queen Victoria on a 
 
 VISIT HERE. 
 
 Plas Newydd has been honoured by the presence of royalty 
 on two occasions. In 1821, George the Fourth, when on his 
 way to Ireland, visited this mansion, and was received with 
 every demonstration of respect and attachment by the noble 
 proprietor. Her present Majesty, when Princess Victoria,
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 109 
 
 accompanied by her amiable mother, the Duchess of Kent, re- 
 sided here during the summer of 1832. The many acts of 
 charity and munificence conferred by them on the neighbouring 
 inhabitants, have impressed the memory of their residence here 
 indehbly on their minds, 
 
 " Mai cenedl, gryra hawl cynes, — in tirion 
 Victoria Vrenhines, 
 Mae ynom o wraidd mynwes 
 Galoii ya wreichion o wres ! 
 
 (As a nation filled with attachment to our beloved Queen 
 Victoria, there exists in our bosoms a heart sparkling with 
 unabated warmth and devoted loyalty.) — Within the park of 
 Plas Newydd is the 
 
 Druids' Lodge, 
 
 The beautiful residence of J. Saunderson, Esq. This is, with- 
 out exception one of the prettiest little places on the island. 
 This multum in parvo of comfort and elegance is unique in its 
 well selected treasures of ancient and modern sculpture, paint- 
 ings of the old and new school, and a library selected with 
 taste and judgment : gems, cameos, fossils, minerals, works of 
 study on every subject, are here collected; and surrounding 
 this perfect Paradise is an extensive garden of Eden.* A 
 small equestrian statue of Wellington is erected near a beau- 
 tiful willow in the grounds. 
 
 Vaenol, 
 
 the property of T. Assheton Smith, Esq., formerly the residence 
 of Sir William Williams, a thoughtless spendthrift, who left the 
 reversion of his estate to king William III., who made a grant 
 thereof to an ancestor of the present possessor, then speaker 
 of the house of commons. Inquiry being made after Sir Wil- 
 liam's right heirs, the next of whom was Sir William Owen, of 
 Bod Owen, in Anglesea, he was advised to set the will aside; 
 but being in years, and having an ample fortune, he declined 
 the anxieties of law and the influence of kings. In the variety 
 of situations which the demesne of Vaenol affords, Mr. Smith 
 built a cottage in a grove, so as to exclude every feature but 
 
 * Our gracious majesty the queen, when princess Victoria, and 
 H.R.H. the duchess of Kent, when residing at Flag Newydd, used 
 to visit this beautiful and enchanting place very often.
 
 110 A KAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 Snowdon, who declared he would not be hid, but would continue 
 to the end of time to verify the name given him by those who 
 first saw him — Yr Wyddva (the Conspicuous). 
 About a mile and a half further on the right is 
 
 Plas Coch. 
 This interesting house has long been of importance: in the 
 beginning of the 12th century it was the residence of Llywarch 
 ab Bran, lord of Cwmmwd ]\Ienai, founder of one of the fifteen 
 tribes of North Wales. It was called Porthamael till 1569, 
 when Hugh Hughes, Esq. built the present house, which, from 
 the complexion of the stone, acquired the name of Plas Coch 
 (Red Hall). The founder was queen Elizabeth's attorney for 
 North Wales; served as high sheriff three times, and repre- 
 sented his native county in parliament. Her successor, James, 
 appointed him lord chief justice of Ireland, but he died in 
 London before going over. The present owner, W. B. Hughes, 
 Esq. M. P. for the Caernarvonshire boroughs, is the twentieth 
 resident at Plas Coch, from his ancestor the loi'd of Menai, by 
 his eldest son Cadwgan. 
 
 SUETOXIUS AND THE Ro>L\N ArMY CROSS THE StRAITS. 
 
 The shore near Porthamael, not far from hence, is famed for 
 being the place where Suetonius landed with his Roman army, 
 A.D. 60, and massacred the inhabitants, the Druids, and refu- 
 gees, in great numbers. His infantry passed over the Menai, in 
 flat-bottomed boats. His horse passed partly by fording and 
 partly by swimming. — A little further on to the right is 
 
 MOEL-Y-DON. 
 
 This was formerly one of the principal ferries on the Menai, 
 and is still a place of considerable traverse. The farmers of this 
 part of Auglesea take the produce of the land to Caernarvon 
 fairs and markets, where they find a ready sale. — Opposite the 
 Moel-y-don ferry, on the Caernarvonshire side, is 
 
 Port Dinorwig. 
 
 This is situated half way between Bangor and Caernarvon, 
 and has within the last few years been considerably improved 
 and enlarged: upwards of 800 tons of slates are daily brought 
 here for shipment. This port is of good size, and generally 
 contains a great number of vessels from all parts of the world, 
 waiting for cargoes,
 
 FROM CHESTEK TO IIOLYHKAI). Ill 
 
 Mr. Smith has an immense slate-quarry at Llanberis, where 
 he employs about 1800 men. The slates are conveyed by tram- 
 road to this place. — About two miles further on to the right is 
 
 Llanidan Hall, 
 
 the seat of Lord Boston, finely situated on that arm of the sea, 
 commanding a beautiful prospect of Caernarvon and the Snow- 
 don hills. The church, which is adjacent, once beloncfed to 
 the convent of Beddgelert. In 1.535, it followed the fate of 
 that house. Queen Elizabeth granted it to Edward Downham 
 and Peter Ashton, who sold it in 1605 to Richard Prytherch 
 of Myvyrian, whose daughter married a Llwyd of Lligwy, on 
 the other side of the island. On the extinction of that family, 
 all their estates were bought by the late Lord Usbridge, who 
 left them to his nephew. Sir William Irby, the late Lord Bos- 
 ton, whose son, the present lord, occasionally resides here. — 
 Further on to the right is 
 
 Llanvair, 
 
 the neat residence of J. Grifiith, Esq. The house is wrapt up 
 in a grove on the shore of the Menai, and is best seen from the 
 Anglesea side of the water, where it reminds us of Pope's Villa 
 on the banks of the Thames. — From hence to Caernarvon the 
 shore is studded with neat villas. 
 
 Cae Gwyn. 
 
 The marine villa and summer residence of our respected 
 townsman, John Finchett-I\Iaddock, Esq., is particularly at- 
 tractive, and commands a splendid view of the Menai Straits, 
 Caernarvon bay, and the opposite shores of Anglesea. From 
 this castellated summer-house is seen the whole range of the 
 Snowdonian mountains, the Cambrian Alps, raising their cloud- 
 capt summits in wild and glorious confusion. 
 
 A mile further on is the antique town of 
 
 CAERNARVON. 
 
 This is one of the largest and handsomest towns in North 
 Wales; its name implies, a City in Arvon, or the Arvonian 
 Capital; the offspring of the Roman Segontium, and the birth- 
 place of Edwai'd the Second. It is situated on the banks of
 
 i i 2 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 the Menai, and is a place well calculated for a pleasant retreat 
 during the summer months. 
 
 Within these few years the town has been considerably im- 
 proved and enlarged. The houses are neat, particularly in 
 the suburbs, where several fashionable villas have lately been 
 erected. The walls round the town give it an antique appear- 
 ance. The county-hall, where the assizes are held, and where 
 the county business is arranged, is situated close to the castle 
 walls; and near it is the prison, one of the ancient towers being 
 appropriated for the purpose. Caernarvon is considered 
 the emporium of this part of the country; consequently, it 
 carries on a very considerable trade, and maintains a command- 
 ing position in the scale of respectability. 
 
 To the public spirit of the Marquis of Anglesea, Caernarvon 
 is indebted for a handsome building, in which are warm and 
 cold baths, a reading-room, assembly-room, and other similar 
 accommodations, all under admirable superintendence. 
 
 The port and harbour of Caernarvon has a very busy appear- 
 ance, and has a very considerable coasting trade with Chester, 
 Liverpool, Dublin, and Bristol. But the principal trade, and 
 the most important to this neighbourhood, is the slate trade, 
 which affords constant employment to several thousand men. 
 The neighbouring quarries send their produce to this port for 
 shipment ; viz. Cilgwyn, in the parish of Llanllyfni ; Cefn du, 
 in the parish of Llanrug; Gallt-ddu and Glanrhonwy, in the 
 parish of Llanberis. 
 
 The site of the ancient town of Segontium, which lies about 
 half a mile south of the present one, will be found worthy the 
 attention of the traveller. It was the only Roman station of 
 note in this part of Wales, on which a long chain of minor 
 forts and posts were dependent. 
 
 Some exceedingly interesting discoveries have recently been 
 made at this place, during the progress of the excavations in 
 building a new vicarage-house, within the limits of the ancient 
 fortified camp or station. Several Roman coins, medals of 
 Severus, Domitian, Constantine, &c., in fine preservation, were 
 found here, and are now in the possession of the worthy vicar, 
 the Rev. Thos. Thomas. 
 
 Caernarvon is governed by a mayor, aldermen, and town- 
 council, under the provisions of the municipal act; and, in 
 conjunction with the boroughs of Bangor, Conway, Cricceth, 
 Nevin, and Pwllheli, returns a member to parliament.
 
 from chester to itolyhkad. }\^ 
 
 The Castle. 
 
 The ruins of this magnificent structure are considered the 
 noblest in Wales. Over the grand entrance to this stupendous 
 monument of ancient grandeur, is a statue of Edward the First, 
 the sovereign by whom it was erected. J>ery feature of the 
 face has long disappeared. The figure, which is fast moulder- 
 ing away, had formerly a sword in its hand, as if to terrify the 
 inhabitants of his newly acquired dominions. The principal 
 gate had four portcullises, and was of adamantine strength. 
 The building is large, but irregular. The towers are extremely 
 well proportioned, and built in the octagonal, hexagonal, and 
 pentagonal forms. The largest amongst them is the Eagle 
 Tower, which, with its three handsome turrets, has been the 
 admiration of ages. It was in the Eagle Tower that Queen 
 Eleanor gave birth to Edward, the first prince of Wales of the 
 English blood. He was born on St. Mark's day, the 25th of 
 April, 1284. From the top of this tower, the tourist will be 
 highly gratified by an extensive view of the isle of Anglesea, 
 the Menai Straits, and the surrounding country for many miles 
 distant. The ramparts are suificiently wide for parties to walk 
 round and view the ruins. The castle has lately undergone 
 considerable repairs, under the authority of the Commissioners 
 of Woods and Forests. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Caernarvon is surrounded with de- 
 lightful villas and public walks, which abound in objects of 
 curiosity, well worthy the attention of the botanist, historian, 
 and antiquary. Tourists who are partial to rowing, sailing, or 
 fishing, may here enjoy their respective amusements to per- 
 fection. 
 
 The Uxbridge and the Sportsman hotels are establishments 
 of the first order, and in no part of England is better accom- 
 modation to be met with; the Castle and Commercial inns are 
 also excellent houses. Coaches and omnibuses go to and fro to 
 meet the Liverpool steam-packets at the Menai bridge. 
 
 The mail leaves every morning for Pwllheli, through Clynog; 
 and for Barmouth, through Beddgelert, Tremadoc, Tan-y- 
 Bwlch, and Harlech. There are also coaches to Aberystwyth 
 and the intermediate towns. 
 
 Caernarvon is the key to Snowdonia, the Cambrian alps, and 
 the following remarkable places, distance as follows: —
 
 114 A RAILWAY C05IP ANION 
 
 Llanberis 10 
 
 Beddgelert 13 
 
 Pwllheli 20 
 
 Tan-y-Bwlch 25 
 
 Capel Curig 17 
 
 Dolbadarn 9 
 
 Tremadoc 20 
 
 Commencing again at the Britannia bridge, the train enters 
 into the 
 
 ISLAND OF ANGLESEA, 
 Which has been noted from the remotest period of antiquity as 
 the asylum of the ancient Druids, and afterwards of the Chris- 
 tian religion. Here the sacred historian traces the rudiments 
 of a primitive church, in a long line of primitive saints,* whose 
 names still attach to the most sacred edifices, who founded an 
 establishment which for centuries was independent, and enjoyed 
 a polity and exercised a discipline perfectly distinct from that 
 into which it subsequently emerged. Anglesea is rich indeed 
 in druidical remains and antiquated lore. 
 
 Here, Cambria opes her tome of other days, 
 And with maternal pride, the page displays : 
 Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace 
 From Britain's genuine kings— her noblest race. 
 
 At the end of the great embankment which conveys the line 
 from the bridge, is the 
 
 Marquis of Anglesea's Column. 
 This column was erected in 1816 to commemorate the eminent 
 military services of the most noble the Marquis of Anglesea, 
 and especially those so eminently displayed by his lordship in 
 the memorable battle of Waterloo; where, with his troops, when 
 on the point of taking Buonaparte, he was shot in the thigh, 
 which was afterwards amputated. It is situated on the great 
 Holyhead road, in sight of Plas Newydd, his lordship's man- 
 sion. The work was completed at an expense of £2000, raised 
 by voluntary subsci-iption in the northern counties of the prin- 
 cipality. The inscription is as follows: — 
 
 The inhabitants of the counties of Anglesea and Caernarvon 
 
 have erected this Column in grateful commemoration of 
 
 the distinguished military achievements of their countrj-man, 
 
 William Henry, Marquis of Anglesea, 
 
 the leader of the British cavalry in Spain throughout the 
 
 arduous campaign of 1807, 
 
 and the second in command of the armies confederated against 
 
 France at the memorable battle of Waterloo, 
 
 on the 18th of June, 1815. 
 
 * For a list of the saints who flourished in this island as well as 
 other parts of Wales, during the third, fourth, fifth, and sixth 
 centuries, see Cressey's Church History and Rees' Welsh Saints,
 
 fUOJM CHKSTEK TO HOLYllKAD. ll;> 
 
 The column is of the Doric order, from a design of the late 
 T. Harrison, Esq. of Chester. Its height from the base is 91 
 feet. It stands on the summit of a rocky eminence, called 
 Craig-y-Ddinas, which is about 170 feet above the level of the 
 sea, which makes the height of the column from the same level 
 upwards of 260 feet, consequently commanding most enchant- 
 ing views of the mansion and park of Plas Newydd, the Menai 
 bridge and straits, the entire range of the Snowdonian moun- 
 tains, Caernarvon castle, and the island of Anglesea. 
 
 Anglesea was formerly called " Mon, mam Gymru," (Mon, 
 the mother or the nurse of Wales). Some attribute this appel- 
 lation to its being a very fruitful place, and that in time of 
 scarcity, it supplied the principality Avith corn, cattle, and 
 other necessaries. Others think that this epithet seems more 
 applicable to the district, aS' having been the chief x-esidence of 
 the Druids, whom the primitive unconquered Britons considered 
 the parents of science and the guardians of society. 
 
 The inhabitants of Anglesea are considered a generous and 
 hardy race, strong and active, and generally long lived ; eighty 
 and ninety being a period at which they frequently arrive. 
 
 A celebrated bard of the thirteenth century has handed down 
 the hospitality of the inhabitants of this island, in the following 
 memorable couplet, which is indicative of their cooking appa- 
 ratus being frequently in use : — 
 
 Gorddu yw brig y Werddon, 
 Gan vwg ciginau o Von ! 
 Mona's fat kitchen smokes for many a mile. 
 Curls o'er the deep to tinge the Emerald isle." 
 
 To which our i-ev. friend, the worthy translator, the venerable 
 Archdeacon Newcome, of Euthin, added: — 
 
 Indignant Erin spurns the stranger's soot. 
 And sends it back in clouds of Lundyfoot ! 
 
 The railway now runs parallel for some miles with the 
 Holyhead road, which is considered the finest specimen of road- 
 making in the kingdom ; the steepest part of which does not 
 exceed one inch in thirty. It cost the government, exclusive 
 of bridges and embankments, at the rate of £2000 a mile. — 
 Immediately after passing the column, about two miles 
 distance from the line to the left, enveloped in Avood, is 
 
 Plas Gavyn, 
 formerly the residence of the Rev. H. Rowlands, the author of
 
 116 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 Mona Antiqua, and recently the residence of the late benevo- 
 lent and deservedly respected clergyman, the Rev. H. Rowlands. 
 It is now the residence of his relative, Charles Evans, Esq., 
 formerly of Henblas, in this county. — Further on, in the same 
 direction, is Brynllwyd, the seat of our old friend, J. Richards, 
 Esq. — After crossing the river Braint, about two miles on the 
 right, is 
 
 Plas Pen Mynydd, 
 
 The ancient Residence of the Father of the Royal House 
 of Tudor. 
 
 The celebrated Owen Tudor was born here in 1385, and, after 
 a scholastic- education, he went to London to study the law ; 
 but not liking his profession, he travelled abroad. After visit- 
 ing several countries, he returned to the metropolis, and got 
 admission into the English court. Soon after the death of 
 Henry the Fifth, his widow, Catherine of France, was ena- 
 moured with Owen, and the dowager queen became a subject's 
 wife. His introduction was rather singular; being an active 
 gentleman, very comely in person, and courtly in his behaviour, 
 he was once commanded to dance before the queen; but in 
 footing it, down he slipped, and unable to recover himself, he 
 fell into her lap as she sat on a stool, with the maids of honour 
 around her, admiring his agility ; " Who," as honest Hall in- 
 forms us, " beying young and lustye, followyng more her owne 
 appetyte than frendely counsaill, and regarding more her pri- 
 vate affection than her open honour, toke to husband privily (in 
 1428) a goodly gentylman, and a beautiful person, garniged 
 with many godly gyftes both of nature and of grace, called 
 Owen Teuther, a man brought furth and come of the noble 
 lignage and auncient lyne of Cadwalader, the laste kynge of the 
 Britonnes." They lived together till her death in 1437, after 
 she had brought him three sons and one daughter; one of 
 his grandsons was Henry, Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry 
 the Seventh, King of England. 
 
 Queen Victoria a Descendant from this House. 
 
 It was a descendant of this house that Bacon eulogised as 
 " England's best son and greatest of sovereigns," from whose 
 wise policy may be traced the elements of those enlightened 
 institutions that have made England the freest of nations and 
 the pride of the sea. It is to a princess of the house of Tudor
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 117 
 
 that she owes her commerce and her dominion of the seas : 
 " EUzabeth shivered the sword of Spain, paralyzed the power 
 of Roman idolatry," and restored the British race of princes to 
 the throne of these realms. 
 
 About three miles onwards, to the right, is the old man- 
 sion of 
 
 Tregarnedd, 
 
 now only a farm-house, but once the residence of a most valiant 
 and distinguished chieftain, Ednyfed Vychan, the able minister 
 and councillor of Lly welyn the Great, in the thirteenth century. 
 It was also the birth-place of Sir GrufFydd Llwyd, who first 
 brought intelligence to Edward the First, then at Rhuddlan, of 
 his queen having been delivered of a son at Caernarvon castle. 
 On this occasion he received the honour of knighthood, and 
 subsequently did homage to the young prince at Chester. — 
 About a mile from the last-mentioned place is 
 
 LLANGEFNI. 
 
 This town is considered the centre of Anglesea, and is cele- 
 brated for its large markets and fairs, where considerable busi- 
 ness is transacted in buying cattle for the English market. It 
 is one of the contributory boroughs. The Bull Inn is a com- 
 fortable house. 
 
 In the neighbourhood is Lledwigan, a respectable farm-house, 
 where formerly lived Morris Llwyd, a partisan of Charles the 
 First. A troop of the parliamentary soldiers, consisting of 30, 
 arrived at his house, and demanded from Morris, who was then 
 thrashing in his barn, a certain sum of money, or his life. He 
 bravely answered that he would not part with one without the 
 other; and having thereupon partially closed the doors, he with 
 his flail attacked those who attempted to enter. Eight or ten 
 fell in this contest before he was killed. 
 
 Pencraig, the seat of Richard Griffith, Esq., and Hirdrefog, 
 the seat of J. Priestley, Esq., ai-e in the same neighbourhood, 
 and are seen to advantage from the embankment before us. 
 
 The line now gradually curs^es in a south-western direction, 
 leaving the Chester and Holyhead road on the right, near the 
 village of Gaerwen. — About a mile and a half on the left is 
 
 Tre'r Dryw, 
 
 Or the habitation of the archdruid, and the pious seat of his 
 domestics. " Here," observes Mr. Pennant, " I met with the 
 
 1
 
 lis A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 mutilated remains described by Mr. Eowlands. His Bryn 
 Gwyn, Brian Gwyn, or royal tribunal, is a circular hollow of 
 one hundred and eighty feet in diameter, surrounded by an 
 immense agger of earth and stones, evidently brought from 
 some other place, there not being any mark of their being 
 from the spot. It has only a single entrance. This is sup- 
 posed to have been the grand consistory of the druidical ad- 
 ministration." 
 
 Here the traveller is reminded that he enters on " classic," 
 or rather on Celtico-sacred grouud. This and the adjacent 
 parishes abound with the remains of the consecrated groves, 
 circles, altars, and monumental stones, vestiges of the bardic 
 system, and rude memorials of the religious faith and super- 
 stitious rites practised by our forefathers in the earliest period 
 of our history. 
 
 Llangaffo Church. 
 
 The carriages pass through some deep cuttings, and under a 
 very substantial handsome three-arched bridge, which carries 
 over the road leading to Llangaffo, at which place a handsome 
 new church has lately been built, with a graceful spire, a rare 
 sight in this part of her majesty's dominions, and forming a 
 prominent and pleasing object from several parts of the island. 
 
 On the right is Berw Colliery. The coals produced here are 
 highly advantageous to the inhabitants of this part of the 
 island. It is very profitably worked by Messrs. Prichard and 
 Hughes. — After passing the colliery, jthe line crosses Mall- 
 traeth, a sandy marsh of considerable extent, say 12 miles in 
 length from Llauddwyn Point to Llangefni. Since the inclo- 
 sure act of 1818, about 1100 acres have been recovered from 
 the sea. 
 
 Malltraeth Viaduct. 
 
 The carriages cross the tidal river Cefni on a noble viaduct 
 of 19 arches, one of the greatest ornaments on the line. It is 
 built askew, and the work altogether is highly creditable both 
 in its design and execution. The Malltraeth Sands are flanked 
 on both sides by two ranges of lime-stone rock, and constitute 
 a very curious geological phenomenon. — About two miles and a 
 half on the left are the remains of the once important town of 
 
 Newborough, 
 Or more properly Rhos Vdir, the British name ; a place greatly 
 fallen away from its ancient consequence. This, at a remote
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 119 
 
 period, was one of the residences of our princes, and also the 
 seat of justice for the whole Commot of Menai, and continued 
 so long after it became subject to the English. A respect to a 
 royal seat was still maintained by the new possessors. It 
 became a manor of the prince of Wales. Edward I, erected 
 the town into a corporation, and gave it a guild mercatory and 
 other privileges, which were confirmed by parliament in the 
 first of Edward III. From this time it was called Newborough. 
 About two miles on the right is the old mansion of 
 
 Henblas. 
 
 in the parish of Llangristiolus, the birth-place of Dr. W. Lloyd, 
 bishop of St. Asaph, one of the seven bishops sent to the tower 
 by James the Second, for their inflexible integrity in the main- 
 tenance of the Protestant religion. He has been described by 
 contemporaries, as well as by subsequent biographers, as a per- 
 son rarely equalled in learning, erudition, and firmness. Bishop 
 Burnett passes a high eulogium, as " one of the greatest divines 
 of the day." Bishop Wilkins used to say that " he had the 
 most learning in ready cash of any one he ever knew, for he 
 was a walking concordance of the Bible." — The line now enters 
 
 Trefdraeth Tunnel, 
 
 cut through some exceedingly hard rock, about 550 yards long. 
 The fronts of this tunnel are of a bold design, and have the 
 effect of conveying the idea of great massiveness and strength. 
 Indeed, it may well be said that all the bridges and other works 
 connected with this railway are of a most superior description, 
 both in an ornamental knd substantial point of view; and may 
 vie with any railway in the kingdom. — About four miles from 
 the line, on the right, is 
 
 Llanddwyn, 
 
 which is highly interesting, not only for its uncommon scenery, 
 but for an important portion of national history originating 
 there. Richard Kyffin was rector of this parish in the time of 
 Richard the Third, and afterwards dean of Bangor. He from 
 hence, by means of fishing boats, corresponded with the earl 
 of Richmond, then an exile in Brittany, and with Sir Rhys ap 
 Thomas in South Wales; for when that prince landed at Mil- 
 ford with a small force. Sir Rhys, knowing the value of decision, 
 immediately joined him with the posse within his reach. The
 
 120 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 red dragon, the royal standard of Wales, was planted in vari- 
 ous parts, to ,which the people flocked in great numbers. 
 Mostyn of Mostyn and his sixteen hundred miners and colhers 
 were on the surface; the men of Arvon, under the high sheriff, 
 Gwilym ap Gruffyd ap Robin of Penrhyn and Cochwillan ; the 
 men of Mona, under Rhys of Bodychan ; and those of the inte- 
 rior uplands, under Rhys Vawr ap Meredydd of Yspytty, were 
 soon on their march to Bosworth ; where Sir William Brandon, 
 Richmond's standard-bearer, was knocked down in a personal 
 rencontre with Richard. — About two miles and a half to the 
 left is situated 
 
 BOD-OwEN, 
 
 the venerable mansion of the Owen family ; the proprietor of 
 which was in parliament for Pembrokeshire, in the time of 
 Queen Anne, when the debate occurred for settling the succes- 
 sion to the crown, between the houses of Savoy and Hanover; 
 the parties being nearly equal, that gentleman hastened to Lon- 
 don, to give his casting vote in favour of the latter. George 
 the First offered to make him an earl, which honour he de- 
 clined, adding, he had only done his duty. This was the second 
 time (says the author of Beaumaris Bay) when we of Wales 
 had the honour and happiness of giving kings to our original 
 country. Sir John Owen, bart., of this family, was a zealous 
 loyalist during the civil wars, so much so, that Cromwell* sent 
 a troop of horse to take him, of which he was warned by his 
 faithful neighbours. But his excellent lady found means to 
 conceal him, and then she called the family harper, ordering 
 him to play her favourite tune, which she accompanied with 
 her lyennillion. This air has since been known as " Lady 
 Owen's Delight." The troopers were disappointed, and Sir 
 John escaped. 
 
 * This is not the only time that Cromwell's party was disap- 
 pointed in this island. The lale Rev. Mr. Lloyd, of Caerwys, used 
 to relate an anecdote told him by his paternal grandmother, that 
 her parents preserved their house at Llanerch-y-medd from being 
 ransacked by a party of Oliver Cromwell's men on their return 
 home from a" plundering excursion from Bodidris, by causing the 
 feather beds to be ripped open, and scattered on the premises. 
 This ruse de guerre succeeded ; for the men were heard to say, as 
 they passed on, " It is useless to call here, for some of our people 
 have been beforehand with us."
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 121 
 
 A fine view of Caernarvon Bay now presents itself, across 
 which, are seen the Caernarvonshire hills called the " Rivals," 
 on the road to Pwllheli. The attractive mansion of 
 
 BODORG.iN, , 
 
 The seat of 0. F. Augustus Fuller Meyrick, Esq. is within 
 about a mile of the railway. The woods, grounds, and gardens, 
 of this house, are the admiration of all who have visited them. 
 It has been in the possession of this family for several centu- 
 ries, and the present owner is the representative of a long line 
 of ancestry. Sion Brwynog, alluding to Richard Meyrick, Esc|, 
 in 1550, says, — 
 
 " Alarch o Lowarch, a'i lys, 
 Ap Bran, yri nhop yr ynys. " 
 
 Of Llowarch's princely race — the pride, 
 Thy Mona's guardian, and her guide. 
 
 The carriages now traverse through the parish of Llangad- 
 waladr. The church is said to have been founded by Cadwaladr, 
 last king of the Britons, A.D. 686. The stone mentioned by 
 Rowlands yet remains, forming the lintel of the soiitli entrance 
 door-way. Antiquarians differ in decyphering the inscription 
 upon it. It is supposed to commemorate Catamanus or Cadfan, 
 the grandfather of the founder, who was interred here. 
 
 BODORGAN STATION. 
 
 From this station may be visited Bodorgan, Newborough, 
 Llanddwyn, and AberfFraw. It is also the nearest station for 
 Llangefni, Llanerchymedd, Amlwch, and Parys Mountain. 
 
 On leaving this station, may be seen on our left, in a wes- 
 terly direction, the ancient but now sadly neglected town of 
 
 Aberffraw, 
 
 formerly one of the royal rendezvous of the prince of Wales, 
 where Llywelyn held his councils in the days of yore. Except- 
 ing the walls of a barn, and Gardd-y-Llys, at the west end of 
 the town, not a vestige remains to mark the spot where once 
 stood the residences of the sovereigns of North Wales. Being 
 one of the three courts of justice for the principality, here was 
 always kept one of the three copies of the ancient codes of law. 
 The place is of great antiquity, being one of the three fixed 
 upon by Roderic the Great, about the year 870, for the resi-
 
 122 A RAILWAY C03IPANIOX 
 
 dence of his successors. In 920, it was ravaged by the Irish. 
 The Prince Llywelyn Inn here is a very respectable house, 
 ■where travellers will meet with every accommodation. 
 
 Llyn Coron, (the Lake of Cokon.) 
 
 In the vicinity of Aberffraw, there is a splendid lake of two 
 miles in circumference, abounding with trout and other fish of 
 superior description. It is much frequented by anglers during 
 the summer, for the accommodation of whom, Mr. Jones, land- 
 lord of the Prince Llywelyn Inn, has erected on the margin of 
 the lake a very tasteful cottage. 
 
 In this neighbourhood was found the curious mass of copper 
 which is now in the Mostyn library. It is in the shape of a 
 cake of bees' wax, weighs 42lbs, and is impressed in raised 
 characters with the words Socio Eom^. This curiosity was 
 presented to Lady Mary Mostyn, daughter of Sir John Wynne, 
 of Gwydir, by archbishop Williams, who found an asylum at 
 Gloddaeth, where he died. 
 
 At this place was born Walter Steward, the ancestor, accord- 
 ing to Rowlands, of the royal house of Stuart. — See Mona 
 Antiqua, p. 175. 
 
 Near Aberffraw have frequently been found the amulets, 
 called gleniau nadroedcl (or snakes' gems,) supposed to have 
 been manufactured by the Komans, and exchanged for exports 
 with the Britons. 
 
 From this point the carriages traverse through ordinary 
 cuttings and embankments, passing within a few hundred yards 
 on the left of Llanfaelog rectory, the seat of the Rev. J. W. 
 Trevor, and over a bleak sandy common called Tywyn Trewyn. 
 In going over this flat, on the left we have a beautiful view of 
 Cymmerau bay, and the headland of Rhoscolyn. — In the adjoin- 
 ing parish of Llantrisant, a few miles on the right, is 
 
 Nantaxog, 
 
 the birth-place of Sir William Williams, speaker of the house 
 of commons in the time of Charles the Second. He was brought 
 up a barrister, became recorder of Chester, and represented that 
 city in three parliaments ; in the latter of which he was chosen 
 speaker. The lord chancellor Jeffries became his enemy, in 
 consequence of receiving on his knees a reprimand from him as 
 speaker of the house of commons. At Jeffries' instigation be 
 was afterwards prosecuted, and made to pay a fine of ^£8000;
 
 FROM c;hksteu to iiolyjiead. 123 
 
 tried for a libel (36 of Chas. II.), for causing to be printed the 
 information of John Dangerfield. He was considered one of 
 the best lawyers in Great Britain, and appears by the debates 
 and state trials, to have been the active and zealous advocate 
 of the popular party in those days. The following anecdote is 
 related of this speaker, indicative of his great love of ancient 
 lore. He having fainted owing to excess of business, some one 
 observed, " carry him into the fresh air ;" upon which a witty 
 member cried out, " put his nose in a musty old volume of 
 parliamentary records, he will soon recover, for that is his 
 native air." 
 
 After passing a number of bridges in rapid succession, we 
 again come in sight of the great Holyhead road, and pass over 
 the small river Alaw, on the banks of which, in 1813, was 
 found buried in the earth a very curious ancient British relic, 
 called 
 
 Bronwen's Urn. 
 This unusual piece of antiquity, a sepulchral urn, is ascertained 
 by ancient documents to have contained the remains of Bron- 
 wen, the daughter of Llyr (king Lear) and aunt to the great 
 Caractacus. The urn is in good preservation ; it is entire, 
 with the exception of a small bit out of the lip.* It is but ill 
 baked and very rude, having no other ornament than little 
 pricked dots round the mouth, which appear to have been 
 printed by a tool, such as is used in making pastry. Its height 
 is from a foot to fourteen inches. Bronwen was the consort of 
 the Irish king Matholwch, and lived about the beginning of the 
 second century. See letter in the Cambro-Briton, by Sir Ed. 
 Colt Hoare, bart. Our late venerable friend and distinguished 
 antiquarian, Richard Llwyd, Esq. of Chester, presented this 
 antique urn to the British museum. 
 
 The line now runs parallel with the Stanley embankment, 
 which crosses the sands and an arm of the sea. This stupen- 
 dous work cost the government £60,000, and shortened the 
 road from Bangor to Holyhead two miles. It is three quarters 
 of a mile in length, and on an average 26 feet in height, near 
 the centre of which is a bridge, through which, owing to the 
 confinement of so large a body of water, the tide rushes with 
 inconceivable velocity and terrific noise. 
 
 * This bit was afterwards found by the writer, and carefully 
 lodged in the British museum, where it has since been cemented to 
 the urn, which is now whole-
 
 124 A RAILWAY C03IPANI0N 
 
 " Here ocean rushes from her wide domains, 
 With distant roar salutes the sandy plains ; 
 Now slow, serene, the placid currents creep, 
 Then backward roll terrific to the deep." 
 
 At the end of the embankment to the right, we pass the 
 gay turrets of 
 
 Pexrhos Park. 
 
 This handsome modern mansion is embosomed in the wood, and 
 is the residence of the Hon. William Owen Stanley, late M.P. 
 for the county. It was built under the direction of Mr. Def- 
 ford. l"he principal entrance faces the sea, of which it com- 
 mands a very extensive view. — About a quarter of a mile east 
 of Penrhos is Penrhyn, a cliff projecting into the sea, which 
 has been the residence of the family of Owen for many centu- 
 ries, who were descended from one of the five sons of Hwfa ap 
 Cynddelw, Lord of Llifon in 1157, now represented by Lord 
 Stanley, and his two sons. Lord Edisbury and the Hon. 
 W. 0. Stanley. Hwfa was cotemporary with Owen Gwynedd, 
 one of the most celebrated princes of North Wales, who on 
 more than one occasion gave battle and completely routed the 
 English army, under the personal command of Henry the Se- 
 cond. Hwfa founded one of the fifteen royal tribes of Wales ; 
 and his five sons inherited his princely property, extending 
 from Aberfiaw to Holyhead, and including a great part of the 
 island of Anglesea. 
 
 A little further on to the right are seen some ancient forts 
 or watch-towers and an obelisk-monument, erected by public 
 subscription to the memory of the late Captain Skinner, for- 
 merly master of one of the post-office packets on this station, 
 who lost his life by being washed overboard in 1833. He was 
 generally respected, and his loss greatly regretted by his nume- 
 rous friends. — A very short distance will bring us in sight of 
 
 HOLYHEAD. 
 
 This place, which is of great antiquity, is situated on the 
 western part of Anglesea. It is a sea-port, borough, and mar- 
 ket-town. The first account we have of it is, that it was the 
 residence of a British saint, named Corineus, son of Solomon, 
 duke of Cornwall, and pupil to Hilarius, bishop of Poictiers, 
 about the year 380. A religious house is said to have been 
 erected here by prince Maelgwyn Gwynedd in the latter part 
 of the sixth century; but the house called the College appears
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 125 
 
 to have been founded by Hwfa ap Cynddelw, lord of Llys Llifon, 
 a cotemporary of Owen Gwynedd, who began his reign in 1137. 
 This college was granted by James the First to Francis Morris 
 and Francis Phillips. It afterwards became the property of 
 Kice Gwynne, Esq., who, in the year 1640, transferred the 
 tithes to Jesus College, Oxford, for the maintenance of two 
 scholars and two fellows. It was erected about the time of 
 Edward the Third. The inside of the porch and the external 
 l)art of the south end of the transept are decorated with rude 
 carvings. On the latter are the figures of a dragon, a man 
 leading a bear, and other grotesque representations. On the 
 pediments and battlements are cherubic heads, and one or two 
 figures in a supplicating posture, with this inscription, ^^Sancta 
 Cylii, ora iwo nobis." The cemetery has been strongly forti- 
 -fied; the inclosure is 220 feet long and 130 wide; along the 
 walls, which are exceedingly thick, are two rows of circular 
 holes. These perforations are found in most of the British 
 forts, and many contradictory opinions are given by writers, to 
 which our limits do not allow us to refer. 
 
 George the Fourth Landing at Holyhead. 
 
 On 6th of August, 1821, King George the Fourth landed at 
 Holyhead, on his passage to Ireland, an event which formed an 
 epoch in the history of the Principality, and of Anglesea in 
 particular. His majesty was received on the pierhead by Sir 
 John Thomas Stanley, bart. now Lord Stanley, who read and 
 presented to him a brief address, congratulating him upon his 
 safe arrival in the harbour, and expressive of the heartfelt joy 
 of the inhabitants at beholding their gracious and beloved 
 sovereign amogst them. On recei^^ng this address, his majesty 
 said, that his heart was indeed warmed in witnessing such a 
 display of loyalty and affection in a country which was and 
 always would be dear to him, and of which he had borne the 
 title of Prince for the greatest portion of his life. After 
 remaining a short time on the pier, his majesty and suite pro- 
 ceeded in three of the Marquis of Anglesea's carriages to Plas 
 Kewydd, which seat they reached about four o'clock. On the 
 following Wednesday morning, deputations arrived from the 
 corporations and other public bodies of the counties of Anglesea 
 and Caernarvon, from the bishop and clergy, and the great 
 body of dissenters, to present loyal addresses to the king : all of 
 which were received very graciously by his majesty. Such an
 
 126 A RAILWAY COMP.UJION 
 
 event was not likely to be passed over without some display ; 
 accordingly, a public meeting was held and a subscription 
 entered into for the purpose of erecting a triumphal arch, com- 
 memorative of the landing of his majesty on the Welsh shore. 
 
 Grand Triumphal Arch, 
 
 Erected to commemorate the arrival of George the Fourth, on 
 the 7 th of August, 1821. This arch is a chaste and elegant 
 structure, in the Doric style, formed of Mona marble. It con- 
 sists of a central carriage way, separated on each side by two 
 handsome pillars, from a foot-path enclosed exteriorly by a wall 
 ornamented at the extremities by antse of corresponding 
 character. The gate is twenty feet high, surrounded by a 
 boldly projecting cornice, surmounted by diminishing tiers of 
 masonry, forming a platform. Over the carriage way, on each* 
 side, are empanneled inscriptions, in Welsh and Latin, com- 
 memorative of the event. 
 
 The present harbour spreads over a large space inland, form- 
 ing a basin in the shape of a horse shoe, extending a mile from 
 one point to the other. The tide runs rapidly out, and the 
 port becomes dry. The pier is 360 feet in length, and lying 
 on the east side of the harbour, which enables vessels to ride 
 in four fathoms of water. — Beyond the bridg© are the various 
 government offices, and further on is the lighthouse at the end 
 of the pier, entirely constructed of stone, the door-cases and 
 window-frames excepted. — Connected with the harbour is 
 
 The South Stack Lighthouse. 
 
 We are indebted to the classic pen of Dr. Stanley, now bishop 
 of Norwich, and to Lord Stanley, of Alderley, (who received 
 king George the Fourth, on the 7th August, 1821, on the pier 
 head), for an admirable and amusing account of the South 
 Stack Lighthouse, built in 1818, on the mountain above Holy- 
 head.* The first reflection is produced by 2 1 brilliant lamps, 
 with powerful reflectors, displaying a full face light every two 
 minutes, from an elevation of 142 feet above the level of the 
 sea at high water mark. It is visible over the whole of Caer- 
 narvon bay. In 1827, a suspension bridge was thrown over 
 the sound, span 110 feet. A movable red light is also placed 
 at the South Stack, for the use of the government packets. 
 The ascent to the summit of the head, which is 700 feet above 
 * See Blackwood's Magazine.
 
 FROM CIIESTEK TO HOLYHEAD. 127 
 
 high water, is exceedingly grand. Close to the shore there is 
 a large vein of white and another of yellow fuller's earth, of 
 good quality. There are also marble rocks of various qualities, 
 which might be turned to good account. 
 
 Ancient Caverns, Haunts of Wild Fowl, &c. 
 
 A little to the south of the North Stack, are some grand 
 caverns, the largest of which is called the IParliament-house. 
 We enter through a noble arch about 70 feet high. The ca- 
 vern runs nearly parallel with the shore. The whole promon- 
 tory is chloritic schist, in strata of about six feet. The arch 
 we entered faces the west ; the other inclines to the south, and 
 is larger and very wide, admitting light to every part of the 
 cavern. The sea, the rocks without, and the Stack crowned 
 with its lofty tower, appear through this magnificent portal 
 with singular effect. A little to the south of this cavern, the 
 face of the cliff has a very striking appearance. For an ex- 
 tent of about 70 yards, the strata present their edges to the 
 sea slightly divided, resembling a fa9ade of slender columns 
 descending from an elevation of 250 feet perpendicular to the 
 sea. Various sea-fowls breed in these cliffs, which afford shel- 
 ter to an innumerable quantity of birds, such as gulls, razor 
 bills, guillimots, cormorants, and herons. Upon the highest 
 crags lurks the peregrine falcon, in high repute when falconry 
 was in fashion. The signal-house is a small neat cottage, in 
 the form of a circular tower, with an embattled parapet, which 
 stands about 700 feet above the level of the sea. A man and 
 his wife reside in it, whose business is to look out for the 
 approach of the packets, and give notice by signal. 
 
 The peninsula on which the town stands being the nearest 
 point of land towards Dublin, has been from a very early date 
 the resort of people who pass between England and Ireland. 
 The distance to Kingstown harbour is 54 nautical miles. The 
 passage is considered much safer than from Liverpool. This 
 preference arises hence. The shipping being able to clear land 
 in a shorter time, is in less danger of being embayed. From 
 Liverpool to Dublin the sea voyage is about 130 miles, requir- 
 ing, according to the report of the commissioners of railways in 
 Ireland, a mean time of 13^ hours. It must be remembered 
 also that during storms and low water, vessels encounter much 
 danger and delay in leaving Liverpool harbour, and particularly 
 the Hoyle sands, extending along the Welsh coast from 20 to
 
 128 A RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 30 miles. It is said that between Holyhead and Dubhn no 
 packet has been lost since the days of queen Elizabeth. 
 
 There are two or three good inns at Holyhead, but the prin- 
 cipal one is the Royal Hotel, an establishment of the first order 
 for comfort and attention. The Hibernia Hotel is the next in 
 importance, and is a respectable house. 
 
 St. Bride's, or Toaattn Chapel. 
 
 A very interesting paper relative to this place, written by 
 the hon. W. 0. Stanley, late M. P. for the county, was read at 
 the archceological institute of Great Britain and Ireland, in 
 August, 1846, from which we make the following extract: — 
 " This ancient chapel is on the old London road, about two 
 and a half miles from Holyhead, situated close to the sea. 
 Here is a great mound about 30 feet in height, by 750 in 
 circumference at the base. On the summit of this mound 
 are seen the foundation walls of a small chapel, which has 
 given the name of Towyn y Capel (the Bay of the Chapel,) to 
 the beautiful inlet upon the shore. lorwerth Vynglwyd, a Welsh 
 poet of the fifteenth century, makes mention of the miracles 
 performed by St. Bride in Wales : and the many churches in the 
 principality dedicated to her name, attest her popularity. The 
 legend* states that she sailed over from the Irish coast on a 
 green turf; and landing on the island of Holyhead, at the spot 
 now known as Towyn y Capel, the turf became a green hillock, 
 on which she caused a chapel to be built which was dedicated 
 to her name. The mound is composed of sea-sand, and con- 
 tains a great number of graves, arranged in four or five tiers, 
 one above another, at intervals of about three or four feet. 
 The bodies were laid invariably with the feet converging 
 towards the centre of the mound, — the head being towards 
 the outer side. It appears that no similar instance of inter- 
 ment in graves formed indiscriminately as regards the point 
 of the com.pass towards which the feet of the corpse were 
 laid, has yet been noticed." 
 
 There are several remains of military forts in the neighbour- 
 hood, whose appearance indicate them to be of Eoman origin. 
 
 • One of our old bards alludes to this circumstance in the follow, 
 ing beautifully alliterative couplet : — 
 
 " Da y novaist hyd yn Nyvi 
 Dull Duw, ar dy vantell di !" 
 
 Swift o'er the sea the floating island fled, 
 
 While glorious rays illumined her Holy head.— Ed.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 129 
 
 Many Koman coins of the time of late emperors were found a 
 few years ago in Holyhead mountain; and in 1835, in remov- 
 ing some old walls at Ty mawr, the property of Lord Stanley 
 of Alderley, were found several spear heads, axes, and rings, of 
 bronze, with red amber blades, which, from the form and 
 nature of the materials, appear to be of Phoenician origin. At 
 Trefigreth, another farm of Lord Stanley's, is to be seen a small 
 but perfect cromlech. 
 
 Asylum Harbour and Packet Station. 
 
 Holyhead is formed by nature to become a great trading 
 community. It is very conveniently situated for a harbour of 
 refuge, being about midway between Liverpool and Dublin, and 
 also between Milford Haven and Port Greenock at the mouth 
 of the Clyde. It is well sheltered and< easy of access, conse- 
 quently very much resorted to in hazy weather. It is exactly 
 opposite Dublin, the shortest passage across the Channel, 
 and the nearest point for all vessels coming from the western 
 hemisphere to land on the British shore. No wonder then, 
 that the various commissioners appointed by government, con- 
 sisting of some of the most eminent naval and civil engineers, 
 should select it as the best place on the coast for an asylum 
 harbour and a packet station. A splendid design for both, on 
 a very large scale, has been made by Mr. Eendel, C. E., and 
 adopted by the government and the company. It consists of a 
 break-water of 5000 feet, from Soldier's Point eastward, to 
 terminate at the Platter's Buoy, and a pier of 7,500 feet, from 
 Ynys Gybi, with its head resting on the Outer Platter, enclos- 
 ing an area of 316 acres, three quarters of a mile long, and in 
 six and a half fathoms of water, makiny one of the most 
 splendid refufje harbours and pacJcet stations in the universe, 
 the estimated cost of ichich is £700,000. This vast sum of 
 money is to be advanced jointly between the government and 
 the company: the former £500,000, and the latter £200,0001 
 The works have been commenced, and are to be carried out by 
 the government to the full extent shewn on the plans, and to 
 be prosecuted with the utmost expedition compatible with good 
 workmanship until completed. 
 
 Improved Large Class Steam Boats. 
 
 The government and the Chester and Holyhead railway 
 company are determined to render this line as complete as pos-
 
 130 A RAILWAY COMPAN^lOX 
 
 sible. Nothing lias been left undone to shorten the time and 
 distance between London and Dublin. Four large vessels of 
 650 tons burden, and from 350 to 400 horse power, have 
 been finished at the expence of government, and four more of 
 the same strength and burden at the expense of the company. 
 The cost of each vessel is from 36 to £37,000. All parties 
 concerned, viz. the government, the company, the builders, and 
 engineers, are all desirous of excelling anything hitherto done 
 in the way of steam navigation ; and by way of encouragement, 
 £1000 has been offered by the company to the builder whose 
 boats shall average the shortest passage between Holyhead and 
 Kingstown during 12 months' trial, with the least cost of fuel and 
 wear and tear. They are found to average from 18 to 20 miles 
 an hour. With the assistance of these powerful vessels, the 
 passage across the Channel may be accomplished in a very 
 short time; making it little more than an ordinary ferry; in- 
 deed, far less troublesome and dangerous than the Bangor and 
 Conway ferries were 30 years ago ! 
 
 The distance from London to Holyhead is about 260 miles, 
 which, at 30 miles an hour, may be performed in 8g- hours, 
 and at 40 miles, which is now generally done by express trains, 
 it would only take 6|- hours. The distance from Holyhead to 
 Kingstown is about 60 miles, and can, as we have shewn, be 
 accomplished in 3^ hours, making the whole distance from 
 London to Dublin in about ten hours ! 
 
 We are not disposed to give too much credence to old tradi- 
 tions and prophecies, but there is something so singular in the 
 following one, which seems to be on the eve of being fulfilled. 
 Robin Ddu, an eminent bard who flourished from 1340 to 
 1370, foretold in prophetic verse the rapidity of traveUing, but 
 by what means he does not inform us. He says — 
 
 '■ Codais, ymolchais y'Mon : — bu ryfedd ! 
 Boreu-fwyd yn Y'ngherlleon ; 
 Prydgosper yn y Werddon, 
 Prydnawn— wrth dan mawn y'Mon." 
 
 In the morning in Anglesea I arose, 
 And straight for my journey prepared ; 
 In Chester I first broke my fast ; 
 During the day at Erin I dined ; 
 And evening beheld me in Mona, 
 Enjoying my own turf fireside.
 
 FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 131 
 
 With the assistance of the Chester and Holyhead railway com- 
 pany and their splendid packets, this task can now be accom- 
 plished with ease and comfort to the traveller. 
 
 The Magnitude of the Works — Conclusion. 
 
 The distance from Chester to Holyhead is about 84 miles. 
 The reader who has accompanied us throughout will not, per- 
 haps, be aware of the great magnitude of the works over which 
 he has traversed. Upwards of one hundred and twenty-three 
 thousand distinct iron rails have been laid down, weighing up- 
 wards of twenty thousand five hundred tons. These rest upon 
 nearly seven hundred thousand iron chairs, weighing six thou- 
 sand two hundred tons ; and are supported by three hundred 
 and fifty thousand wooden sleepers. He will have passed 
 through nine tunnels, cut through some of the hardest and 
 most obstinate rock, extending to upwards of four thousand 
 yards into the bowels of the earth ! Through a portion of two 
 wrought-iron monster tubular bridges, measuring two thousand 
 one hundred feet in length, and weighing upwards of twelve 
 thousand tons! He will have crossed thirty -three bye-roads, 
 and four turnpike roads on the level ; passed over six pubhc 
 streets, under and over 130 bridges, fifteen extensive viaducts, 
 and five important tidal and navigable rivers ! He will have 
 passed upwards of one hundred excavations and embankments ; 
 to form which tens of thousands of able-bodied men have been 
 employed, and millions of cubic yards of earth and stone cut 
 and removed ! The whole weight of iron required to construct 
 the railway bridges, &c., is about eighty thousand tons! And 
 the money expended on this gigantic undertaking, up to March, 
 1849, amounted to the enormous sum of £3,418,596 12s. Id., 
 which includes the cost of the Conway tubular bridge 
 £150,000, and that of the Britannia bridge £600,000. 
 
 At the Half-yearly General Meeting of the Proprietors of the 
 Chester and Holyhead Railway, held March 16, 1849, at the 
 offices, 61, Moorgate-street, Captain C. R. Moorsom, R.N., in 
 the chair, the Secretary read the following Statement of Ac- 
 counts : —
 
 132 A RAILWAY COJIPAXION 
 
 Excess beyond 
 
 Heads of Amount of Cost to Parliamentai^ 
 
 Expenditure. Completion. Estimate. 
 Works of construction in excava- 
 tions, permanent way, tunneling, 
 
 masonry £1,590,000 £254,000* 
 
 Stations 164,000 72,000t 
 
 Kails and Sleepers 286,500 95,000J 
 
 Land 294,150 124,000§ 
 
 Conway Bridge 150,000 50,000 
 
 Britannia Bridge 600,000 .350,000|1 
 
 £3,084,650 £945,000 
 
 Receipts and Expenditure to the ^\st December, 1848. 
 
 RECEIPTS. £ s. D 
 
 On 42,000 £50 shares 2,044,467 10 
 
 On 42,000 £15 preference shares (5| per 
 cent, per annum:) — 
 
 Deposit and calls on 36,860 shares, £15 
 
 each 550,635 
 
 Loans on debentures 682,994 7 9 
 
 Premium on shares, and interest 12,615 1 8 
 
 Transfer fees 494 12 6 
 
 Calls overpaid 475 
 
 Shrewsbury and Chester Railway Company 
 
 (tolls into Chester), due previous to 1st 
 
 May, 1848 3,829 19 8 
 
 Traffic (ex : tolls due from Shrewsbury and 
 
 Chester Company, and ex: earnings due 
 
 31st December, but not paid at that date 
 
 to Company's account) 48,085 6 
 
 Loan at interest 75,000 
 
 £3,418,596 12 1 
 
 * Of this amount there is yet to be expended, in excavations 
 and finishing line between Bangor and Britannia Bridge, 
 small works in Anglesea, the sum of £25,00t» 
 
 + Of this amount there is yet to be expended about 10,000 
 
 i The rails were calculated at £7 per ton ; an average of 
 £10 10s. has been paid. 
 
 i Surplus land obliged to be purchased, about 400 acres more 
 than Parliamentary estimate of 9.50 acres. < 
 
 II Of this amount there is to be expended about 150,000 
 
 £185,000
 
 FltOM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD. 133 
 
 EXPENDITURE. £ S. D. 
 
 Parliamentary charges (£35,560 9s. 7d.) 
 Expenses attending formation of Company 
 
 and obtaining Act of Incorporation 20,000 15 10 
 
 Session 1845 — Completion of line approach- 
 ing Menai Straits 4,497 16 8 
 
 Session 1846 — Proposed branch railways ... 5,007 7 
 
 „ 1847— Extension of line at Holyhead 5,254 16 6 
 
 „ 1848— Steam-boats 800 
 
 Land and construction (£2,895,603 Os. 2d.) 
 
 Land and compensation 271,998 12 9 
 
 Works of roadway 1,691,904 16 2 
 
 Tubular girders for Conway and Menai 
 
 bridges 424,725 11 8 
 
 Sleepers, rails, switches and turntables 295,474 16 
 
 Stations and approaches, water cranes, signal 
 
 andmileposts 70,285 2 10 
 
 Chester General Station 51,214 9 
 
 Incidental charges (£92,012 10s. 7d.) 
 Land agency, £2,400 ; engineering, £53,689 
 
 5s. 8d 56,089 5 8 
 
 Solicitors, — Land agreements, conveyancing, 
 
 and general law charges 11,180 10 
 
 Direction and auditors 7,150 
 
 Resident director 4,101 9 8 
 
 Secretary and general office charges 8,428 3 8 
 
 Religious instruction fund 350 
 
 Advertising 1,175 9 10 
 
 Miscellaneous 3,538 11 
 
 Carrying Stock 1,368 12 
 
 Steam-boats 156,223 18 
 
 Interest paid to shareholders 124,755 14 10 
 
 Loans on debentures ; — Stamps, commission, 
 
 and interest 50,712 11 3 
 
 Dividend on preference shares: — 25th Sept. 
 
 1848, at 4s. Ud. per share 2,037 11 2 
 
 Working and other charges connected with 
 
 traffic (ex: amount due to the London 
 
 and North Western, for locomotive power 
 
 and working stock ; and ex: omnibus 
 
 charges at the Menai) : — 
 
 Railroad — General working charges ... 8.767 6 
 
 K
 
 134 DUBLIN AND 
 
 Passenger duty 1,484 
 
 Eates and taxes 327 
 
 Stores and clothing 1,551 
 
 Steam-boats — Packet sei-vice and insur- 
 ance to 31st December 8,462 
 
 Mold Eailway 69,350 
 
 Balance (£60,379 2s. 8d.) :— 
 
 Cash 53,879 
 
 Loan at interest 6,500 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 £3,418,596 12 1 
 
 DUBLIN AND ITS ENVIRONS. 
 
 From the recent arrangements made by the Government and 
 the Chester and Holyhead Railway Company, the passage 
 across St. George's Channel, from Holyhead to Kingstown, a 
 distance of 63 miles, is now generally performed in seven hours ; 
 and thus the mountains of Caernarvon will scarcely have re- 
 ceded from the sight ere those of Dublin and Wicklow rise on 
 the view : and though those of the latter are not so elevated, so 
 grand, nor so diversified in their outline as that magnificent 
 assemblage of silurian mountains of which the lofty Snowdon 
 is the axis, yet they are every where eminently attractive, in 
 many places highly picturesque, and add, in no small degree, to 
 the beauties of the far-famed bay of Dublin. Commencing with 
 Bray-head they run for a considerable distance round the bay, 
 and thence stretching far southwards are lost in the distant 
 horizon. 
 
 The bay itself is circular in outline, and its breadth from 
 Killiney hill, which defines it on the south, to the promontory 
 of Howth, which limits it on the north, is six miles; its 
 length being four miles. All this fine scenery is seen, in its 
 best point of view, when about two miles from the shore. 
 
 As it is likely that the generality of tom-ists will, on landing 
 at Kingstown, at once proceed to Dublin, we shall defer our ob- 
 servations on the former place and its lovely vicinage till their 
 return. 
 
 The railway from Kingstown to Dublin is only six miles in 
 length, and the trip, including stoppages, is usually performed
 
 ITS EMVIKONS. 135 
 
 in half an hour; and as the Kingstown terminus is only a few- 
 yards distant from the packet station, and the railway porters 
 are always in attendance, no delay nor inconvenience will be 
 experienced in the transfer from the steam packet to the railway 
 carriage. 
 
 The Dubhn and Kingstown Eailway is carried along the 
 strand from Kingstown to Merrion, a distance of three miles, 
 and thence through the suburbs and a small portion of the city 
 to the Dublin terminus in Westland-row. From the strand 
 division of the railway beautiful views are obtained of the bay 
 of Dublin, the promontory of Howth on the north, and the 
 suburbs on the south, which lie adjacent to the railway. 
 
 At the Dublin station covered and open cars are always in 
 attendance, by which passengers are conveyed to any part of 
 the city or suburbs. By a late arrangement, for a set down in 
 any part of the town, within the public lights the charge is six- 
 pence ; if any delay is made, the charge is a shilling, but this 
 entitles the passenger to the use of the car for an hour. Every 
 driver, however, is obliged to produce his book of rates, so that 
 no imposition can be practised with impunity. In the book of 
 rates the fares of two-horse carriages are also included. 
 
 The hotels being naturally the first object of inquiry with 
 every traveller on visiting a strange town, we shall here enume- 
 rate some of the best and most conveniently situated of these 
 establishments : — Gilbert's (Royal), 5, Westland-row ; Morri- 
 son's, Dawson-street ; Macken's, Dawson-street ; Hibernian, 
 Dawson- street; Tuthill's, Dawson-street; Eh.idge's, Kildare- 
 street; Kearn's, Kildare-street; Shelbourne, 27 and 30, Ste- 
 phen's Green North; Eadley's, 11, College Green ; Imperial, 21 
 and 22, Sackville-street Lower; Reynold's, 12, Sackville-street 
 Lower; the Gresham, 21 and 22, Sackville-street Upper; Leitrim 
 House, 40, Sackville-street Upper; the Bilton, 36, Sackville-street 
 Lower ; Abbot's, Prince's-street off Sackville-street Lower ; North- 
 umberland, Eden Quay. All the above enumerated hotels are 
 situated in the most ft-equented and central parts of the city, 
 ■where cars and carriages can be readily obtained, and from 
 whence the tourist can easily visit the different parts of the 
 town, the more remarkable public buildings, and the more in- 
 teresting portions of the suburbs and adjacent country. 
 
 We shall now proceed briefly to lay before the tourist a very 
 succinct, and, we trust, a comprehensive outline of Dublin and 
 its environs; pointing out the more remarkable objects, the
 
 135 DLBLIN AKD 
 
 easiest modes of seeing them, and the best arrangements to 
 make according to the extent of his time. 
 . Dublin, the capital of Ireland, and the second city in the 
 empire, boasts of high antiquity, Irish annalists dating its 
 origin from the 2nd century, when it is said to have been 
 noticed by Ptolemy under the name of Eblana. About the end 
 uf the 5th century it appears to have been first occupied by the 
 Danes, who, notwithstanding the innumerable sieges, sackings, 
 burnings, expulsions, and defeats which they sustained, retained 
 at least nominal possession of the city and counti-y around till 
 the arrival of the English in 1170, since which period its his- 
 tory is more or less incorporated with that of England. 
 
 Dublin is situated on the banks of the estuary of the Anna- 
 Liffey, here a tidal river of considerable importance. Limited 
 even long after the invasion of Henry the 2nd to the ridge of 
 land which extends from the site of the Castle to Kilmainham, 
 it now stretches along either bank of the river, and occupies an 
 area of 3.807 acres. Its extent from east to west is three 
 miles, from south to north two miles; its circumference nine 
 miles; its population 238, .531 ; number of houses 21,771 ; nett' 
 annual value £670,435. 
 
 The Anna-Lifl^y, as we have already observed, is here a tidal 
 river of considerable importance; it flows through the centre of 
 the city, forming it into two divisions, the northern and southern. 
 It is navigable for vessels of 900 tons burthen from the Light- 
 house, which is near its mouth, up to the Custom-house, a dis- 
 tance of a mile. Substantial retaining walls have been built on 
 either side of the river for its wdiole extent through the city, a 
 distance of two and a half miles, and the continuous lines of 
 streets on either side are called quays, although, above the first 
 bridge that spans the river, they are of no use as such. 
 
 Across the river, in the principal lines of communication, nine 
 bridges have been built; and though several of them are hand- 
 some structures and of very considerable dimensions, yet, in 
 these days of engineering enterpiizc, when ravines and estuaries 
 are spanned, which till lately w; :s deemed impossible, none of 
 them, at least in this brief sketch, seems to demand any par- 
 ticular notice. 
 
 Unlike the British metropolis, the eastern end of Dublin is 
 the more modern and fashionable. It contains, with the excep- 
 tion of the lloyal Exchange, the Castle, and the Law Courts, 
 some of the more remarkable public buildings, viz. the Univer-
 
 ITS EXVIROXS. 1.37 
 
 sity, the Bank of Ireland, the Custom-house, and the Post- 
 office. It also contains five squares — St. Stephen's -frreen, 
 Fitzwilliam-square, Merrion-square, IJutland and Mountjoy- 
 squares. They are all neatly laid out, well planted, and sur- 
 rounded by good houses; and St. Stephen's-green, containinc; 
 an area of 20 acres, and being nearly a mile in circumference, 
 is larger than any in London. 
 
 The principal streets in this portion of the city are Baggot- 
 street, Leeson-street, Hareourt-street, Nassau-street, Kildare- 
 Dawson-street, Grafton-street, Darae-street, Westmoreland- 
 street, andSackville-street; and these, together with the squares 
 and public buildings tilready enumerated, render this, the eastern 
 part of Dublin, equal to several parts of the western and more 
 fashionable portions of London. 
 
 Many of the principal retail shops are in the above streets; 
 but the moi^ business parts of the town lie along the quays, and 
 are scattered through the older parts of the city, which consti ■ 
 tutes the middle and western divisions. The various quays and 
 docks are in the vicinity of the custom-house. 
 
 The mere recital of the principal streets in the above divisions 
 of the city would far exceed our limits, nor would such a recital 
 be of much use to the stranger. Like all the other large towns 
 in the empire, the older parts of Dublin have been built without 
 much regard to order, cleanliness, or convenience; and while 
 many of the more modern parts which we have particularised 
 present an appearance of wealth, gaiety, and even splendour, 
 many of the older portions exhibit the most saddening scenes of 
 wretchedness and misery. 
 
 The public buildings of Dublin may be thus classified: — 
 The government and municipal offices, law courts and prisons, 
 &c. &c. ; the literary and scientific institutions; trading and 
 commercial buildings; hospitals, civil and military; ecclesias- 
 tical structures; military barracks; and railway stations. 
 
 The Government and Municipal Offices, &c., Sec. 
 
 The Castle of Dublin is situated on the south side of the 
 city, at the west end of Dame-street, and occupies the brow of 
 a ridge which is 46 feet above the level of the sea. It was 
 originally built in 1220; but the present buildings, with some 
 slight exceptions, have been erected since the end of the 17th 
 century. It principally consists of two quadrangles, called the 
 upper and lower castle yards. The former contains the vice-
 
 138 DUBLIN AST) 
 
 regal and chief secretary's apartments, the presence and council 
 chambers, and the offices and apartments of various officers of 
 the household. The latter contains the treasury, record hana- 
 per, registrar offices, also the offices of the auditor-general, and 
 the chapel. On the south side of the castle yards are the 
 ordnance offices, which contain, among various other munitions 
 of war, arms for 60,000 men. With the exception of the chapel, 
 which is a handsome gothic structure, there is nothing veiy 
 striking in the architectural character or arrangements of the 
 immense pile of buildings constituting the castle of Dublin. 
 St. Patrick's-hall, however, where the balls and drawing-rooms 
 are held, is a magnificent room 82 feet long, 41 feet wide, and 
 38 feet high. An order from the chamberlain admits strangers 
 to see the principal apartments ; and admission to the chapel is 
 easily obtained through the sexton. 
 
 The principal courts of law, commonly called the four courts, 
 are on the King's Inn Quay, on the northern side of the Liffey, 
 and between Richmond and Whitworth bridges. This building, 
 erected on the site of a Dominican monastery, was finished in 
 1800, at a cost of £200,000. It is one of the noblest struc- 
 tures in Dublin, both as to magnitude and design, and is best 
 seen from the opposite side of the river. Interiorly, this fine 
 building is well worthy the inspection of strangers, who can 
 always obtain access to the hall, the four courts, and the prin- 
 cipal apartments. 
 
 The sessions-house in Green-street is a plain structure, 
 adjoining which is Newgate, the principal city prison both for 
 debtors and criminals. The bankruptcy court is attached to 
 the four courts, and the various other minor courts of law and 
 police in different parts of the city are not worthy of any par- 
 ticular remark. 
 
 The King's Inns, the only inns of court existing in Dublin, are 
 situated in Henrietta-street; and the principal front, which is 
 beautiful and extensive, is on the north, or towards Constitution- 
 hill. In addition to various public offices and minor courts, 
 this fine structure contains a magnificent dining-hall, eighty-one 
 feet long and forty-two feet broad. The fine library connected 
 with the king's inns is in an adjacent building in Henrietta- 
 street. 
 
 The Post-office. 
 
 This fine bviilding stands in Sackville -street. It is two 
 hundred and twenty-three feet in front, and one hundred and
 
 ITS EN^'lRo^'s. 139 
 
 fifty feet in depth; and, with the exception of the Ionic portico, 
 which is of Portland stone, the whole is of granite. 
 
 The Custom-house 
 
 is a magnificent structure situated on the north bank of the 
 Liftey, and up to which vessels of 900 tons burthen can sail. 
 It is three hundred and seventy-five feet in length, and two 
 hundred and five in depth, and was erected from designs fur- 
 nished by iMr. Gandon, a pupil of Sir William Chambers, at an 
 expense of nearly half a million. This grand edifice, which is 
 best seen from the opposite side of the river, contains all the 
 offices connected with the boards of customs, excise, stamps, 
 public works, and poor law commissioners. All the principal 
 docks, stores, and timber yards are immediately connected with 
 the custom-house. 
 
 The Mansion-house in Dawson-street is a plain quaint- 
 looking structure ; it however contains a fine suite of apartments, 
 capable of containing several hundred persons, and a circular 
 ball-room of 90 feet intei-nal diameter. 
 
 The City Assembly-house, a very plain building, where the 
 members of the Municipal Corporation hold their meetings, is in 
 William-street. 
 
 The Prisons, none of which are very remarkable either in 
 their construction or arrangements, and which are rarely visited 
 except by compulsion, are Newgate, already noticed; the She- 
 rifi^s prison, in Green- street; Richmond bridewell, on the south 
 Circular-road; Richmond female penitentiary, in Grange Gor- 
 man-lane ; the convict depot in Smithfield ; and the four courts, 
 Marshelsea. 
 
 The Literary and Scientific Institutions. 
 
 Trinity College, the buildings of which are of great extent 
 and beauty, and form one of the principal ornaments of the city, 
 consists of three spacious quadrangles. The grand front pre- 
 sented to College-green is of the Corinthian order, and is three 
 hundred and eight feet in length ; and the first or principal 
 quadrangle is five hundred and sixty feet in length, by two 
 hundred and seventy feet in breadth. This quadrangle contains 
 the principal university buildings, viz., the museum, examina- 
 tion-hall, the chapel, dining-hall, and library, as also the lec- 
 ture-rooms, fellows' apartments, &c,, &c. The remaining parts 
 of this quadrangle, as also the entire of the other two, are
 
 140 DUBLIN AND 
 
 appropriated to the use of the students. The Provost's house 
 is on the south side of the large quadrangle, and his private 
 garden connects with that of the fellows. The park for the use 
 of the students, and which is enclosed and planted, contains 
 upwards of twenty acres. The botanic garden is on the 
 Northumberland road, about a mile and a half from the college. 
 In extent it is about eight acres ; is remarkable for the admir- 
 able order in which it is kept, and for its excellent collection of 
 plants. Admission is readily obtained to the different apart- 
 ments of the college, as also to the botanic garden. 
 
 The Royal Dublin Society is in Kildare-street. The building 
 is a handsome spacious structure, and was purchased from the 
 late Duke of Leinster in 1815, whose mansion it had been. 
 This society was incorporated by charter in 1742, "for the 
 improvement of husbandry, manufactures, and other useful 
 arts and sciences." Shows and exhibitions of farm produce are 
 periodically held ; schools of fine arts for the gratuitous instruc- 
 tion of pupils intended for trades or manufactures are esta- 
 blished; and lectures ou the more leading departments of 
 science are regularly delivered by eminent professors. Museums 
 of natural history and agriculture, a library and sculpture 
 gallery form part of the institution ; and the fine botanic gai'den 
 of the society, of fifty years' standing, with extensive ranges of 
 plant houses, is at Glasnevin, which is about two miles from the 
 post-office. They are beautifully situated, watered by the river 
 Tolka, and contain thirty acres. The Dublin society is sup- 
 ported by the subscriptions of members, aided by a government 
 grant varying annually from £8,000 to £5,000. The museums 
 and garden, &c. &c., are open to the public for two days in the 
 week, and members can introduce visitors at any time. 
 
 The Board of Education, situated in Marlborough-street, is 
 a modern and extensive assemblage of buildings, containing the 
 resident commissioner's apartments, library, lecture-rooms, 
 model schools, &c. &c. 
 
 Among the other numerous institutions in this city for the pro- 
 motion of science, literature, and the fine arts, we can here only 
 name the Royal Irish Academy, in Grafton- street, instituted in 
 1786, for promoting the study of science, polite literature, and 
 antiquities; the Royal Hibernian Academy, in Lower Abbey- 
 street, instituted in 1823, for] encouraging painting, sculpture, 
 and architecture; the Museum of Irish Industry, under the 
 direction of the chief commissioner of woods and forests, 51,
 
 ITS EN^^ROxs. 141 
 
 Stephen's -green: the Office of the Geological Survey of Ireland, 
 under the direction of Sir Henry T. De la Beche, 51,Stephen'.s- 
 green; and the Royal Agricultural Improvement Society of Ire- 
 land, in Upper Sackville-street. 
 
 Among the numerous medical schools, we regret want of 
 space compels us to limit our observations to the Koyal College 
 of Surgeons in St. Stephen s-green. It is a handsome granite 
 building in the Doric order; and from its central position, is a 
 remarkable feature from almost every part of the large square, 
 to the adornment of which it contributes. 
 
 Among the trading and commercial buildings, the Bank of 
 Ireland stands pre-eminent. This noble structure, formerly the 
 parliament house, is probably not exceeded in beauty of design 
 by any building in Europe. Its principal front, which consists 
 of a grand Ionic colonnade, faces College-green, and nearly at 
 right angles to the principal front of Trinity College. This 
 building, as well as the custom-house, was designed by Mr. 
 Gandon. To almost every part of the bank there is ready ac- 
 cess. The house of lords has undergone little or no change. 
 Visitors should by no means omit seeing the department for 
 printing bank notes, for which purpose it is necessary to pro- 
 cure an order from the directors. The machinery is of the 
 most ingenious and exquisite mechanism. 
 
 The Royal Exchange, though limited in its dimensions as 
 compared with the bank of Ireland, is a very elegant erection. 
 It is situated on Cork-hill, close to the Castle, and from its 
 position and elevation is a very prominent feature from several 
 parts of the city, particularly from ParHament and Capel- 
 streets. 
 
 The Commercial Buildings in Dame-street; the Corn Ex- 
 change on Burgh Quay; and the Linen-hall in Lisburn-street, 
 do not seem to require any particiilar notice. 
 
 The hospitals and charitable institutions of Dublin are so 
 numerous that a mere enumeration of them would exceed our 
 limits. The more remarkable as buildings, and the more im- 
 portant in other respects are, among the medical, St. Patrick 
 Dun's in Grand Canal-street; the Lying-in-Hospital, a fine 
 spacious building in Britain-street ; and' Madam Steeven's, off 
 James'-street. Near to the latter is Swift's Lunatic Asylum, 
 to the erection of which the celebrated Dean Swift, who died of 
 lunacy, contributed a large portion of the savings of his life. 
 
 Among the military hospitals we may notice the Royal or
 
 142 DUBLIN AND 
 
 Kilmainham Hospital, which is situated at the east end of 
 the town, on the south bank of the LifFey, and about 40 feet 
 above the level of the river. It was founded in 1683, and built 
 from the designs of Sir Chris. Wren, " for ancient and maimed 
 officers and soldiers," and is somewhat on the plan of Chelsea. 
 It is an imposing quadrangular structure, three hundred and 
 six feet long, two hundred and eighty-eight broad, and two 
 stories high. The dining-room and chapel are each about a 
 hundi-ed feet in length and fifty feet in width, and have a 
 venerable and striking appearance. In the building are the 
 apartments of the master, who is always for the time being 
 commander of the forces. Near to the hospital is the Adjutant 
 General's Office, the Royal Infirmary, &c. 
 
 Blue Coat Hospital, or Hospital and Free School of Charles 
 the Second. — This hospital, for maintaining, clothing, educat- 
 ing, and apprenticing the sons of reduced citizens of Dublin, 
 was incorporated in 1670. It stands at the western extremity 
 of Blackhall-street. The present building, which is a handsome 
 structure, was erected in 1774. It maintains and educates 1 10 
 boys. The annual income of the hospital is estimated at £4000. 
 
 The Royal Hibernian Military School, incorporated in 1769, 
 for maintaining, educating, and apprenticing the orphans and 
 children of soldiers in Ireland, is in the Phoenix Park. It is a 
 very extensive building, containing, in addition to the male and 
 female schools and dormitories, an infirmary, a chapel, a large 
 parade ground, and a farm of 19 acres, which is cultivated by 
 the boys. 
 
 The Hibernian Marine School, a plain structure, supported 
 also by parliamentary grants, is on Sir John Rogerson's Quay. 
 
 MiUtary Barracks. — There are within the city of Dublin, or 
 its immediate precincts, six barracks or military stations, 
 which are capable of affording accommodation to six thousand 
 men, besides a large depot lately erected in the Phoenix Park, 
 for the use of the constabulaiy force. 
 
 Places of Worship. 
 Connected with the Established Church, there are the cathe- 
 drals of the Holy Trinity or Christ Church and St. Patrick, 
 the churches of the 20 parishes into which the city is divided, 
 and 20 non-parochial places of Protestant Episcopal worship. 
 There are 9 Roman Catholic parochial places of worship, be- 
 sides Augustinian, Calced and Discalced Carmelites, Capuchin,
 
 ITS Em'ip.ONS. 143 
 
 Dominican, and Franciscan friaries, a Jesuit church, 3 monas- 
 teries, 8 convents ; 6 Presbyterian, 2 Unitarian, 3 Independent, 
 2 Primitive Methodist, 5 Wesleyan Methodist, 2 Friends', 1 
 Baptist, 1 Moravian, 1 German Lutheran, 1 Welsh Methodist 
 places of worship, and a Jews' synagogue. 
 
 Of these the more remarkable are the Protestant cathedrals 
 of Christ Church and St. Patrick; the latter in Patrick-street, 
 and the former in Castle-street; and the modern church of St. 
 George's, in Hardwicke-place. Both the cathedrals are ad- 
 mitted to be of high antiquity ; and although, in point of 
 beauty, architectural character, and extent, are not comparable 
 to many of the noble ecclesiastical structures in England, are 
 yet highly interesting, and possess many striking and pictur - 
 esque characters. St. George's is one of the most beautiful 
 and interesting of the modern churches. 
 
 Among the Roman Catholic places of worship, the more con- 
 spicuous in their construction are the church of the Conception, 
 better known as the Metropolitan Chapel, in Marlborough-st. ; 
 St. Andrew's chapel, in Westland-row; St. Paul's chapel, in 
 Arran-quay ; the church of the Jesuits (St. Francis Xavier), 
 in Upper Gardiner-street ; and St. Andeon's (now in progress), 
 off High-street. 
 
 Of the Dissenting places of worship, the more remarkable 
 are the Presbyterian meeting-house, in the Gothic style, on 
 Ormonde-quay; the Independent chapel, in York-street; and 
 the Wesleyan chapel, in Stephen's-green. 
 
 The Theatre Royal, the principal theatre, is in Hawkin's- 
 street, not far from Carlisle-bridge, and on the site originally 
 occupied by the Royal Dublin Society; and the Queen's Thea- 
 tre, a much smaller building, is in Great Brunswick-street. 
 To which we may add the Rotunda, at the head of Sackville- 
 street. It is attached to the lying-in hospital, and in its large 
 apartments are held the principal balls, meetings, concerts, and 
 exhibitions. In the gardens which are attached to the Rotunda, 
 and form the enclosed grounds of Rutland-square, exhibitions 
 are also held. 
 
 The public Monuments in Dublin are but few. The archi- 
 tectural structures are Nelson's Pillar in Sackville -street, 
 erected by subscription in 1808, at a cost of £6,856, to com- 
 memorate the achievements and victories of that illustrious 
 admiral. It consists of a pedestal, shaft, and capital, of the 
 Doric order, which is surmounted by a statue of the hero; the
 
 144 DUBLIN AND 
 
 entire height of the column and statue being 134 feet. There 
 is an internal stair by which the top can be ascended, and from 
 which a view of the city, bay, and surrounding country, is 
 obtained. 
 
 The Wellington Testimonial stands in the Phoenix Park. 
 This massive pillar is 205 feet in height, formed entirely of 
 granite, and cost £20,000, which was raised by public sub- 
 scription. 
 
 There are three equestrian statues, viz. William the Third 
 in College-green ; George the First in Dawson-street ; and 
 George the Second in St. Stephen's-green. 
 
 The Railway Stations are four : the Kingstown, a very plain 
 structure, in Westland-row; the Drogheda station-house, a 
 handsome Italian building, at the end of Talbot-street; the 
 Midland Great Western railway station-house is at what is 
 called the Broad Stone, and close to the Royal Canal-harbour. 
 When finished, it will be an imposing structure, and may be 
 deemed in its style a modification of the Italian. The roof of 
 the great shed is worthy of examination. It consists of a series 
 of arches, of 60 feet span, covered with corrugated iron. The 
 Great Southern and Western railway is at the point of the 
 Military- road, south of King's -bridge. It is by far the largest 
 and most important of all the Dublin termini. The station- 
 house is also in the Italian style ; it is a splendid building, and 
 will vie with any in England. 
 
 There are two large Cemeteries belonging to the city : Pros- 
 pect cemetery, near Glasnevin, which contains 40 acres; and 
 Mount Jerome, near Harold's-cross, which contains 27 acres. 
 In both these are chapels and numerous monuments of consi- 
 derable interest. 
 
 In the above brief notices of places of worship, hospitals, &c. 
 we have only particularised the more important, those whose 
 buildings are more likely to attract the attention of the tourist, 
 and which at the same time tend to the embellishment of the 
 city. The mere enumeration of the various institutions in 
 Dublin which are intended for the spread of education, the 
 relief of the destitute, the recovery of the sick, and the miti- 
 gation of misery in every shape and form, would far exceed our 
 limits. 
 
 The Phoenix Park 
 forms part and parcel of the city. We shall here briefly de- 
 scribe its situation, nature, and extent. It adjoins the city
 
 ITS ENVIRONS. 145 
 
 on the west, is upwards of two miles in length, and one 
 in breadth ; is about seven miles in circumference ; and com- 
 prises an area of 1754 acres, enclosed by a stone wall, with 
 seven handsome entrance lodges, in different styles of design. 
 It contains the viceregal lodge, the summer residence of the 
 Lord Lieutenant, a large building, -mth. its fine gardens, and 
 enclosed demesne of 160 acres; the chief and under secretary's 
 lodges, with their respective enclosed grounds; the Hibernian 
 school and attached farm ; the gunpowder magazine ; the mili- 
 tary infirmary ; the constabulary barracks; the offices of the 
 ordnance survey of Ireland : the lodges of the parkranger and 
 assistants; the Wellington testimonial; the gardens of the 
 Zoological Society ; and the review ground for the ti'oops in 
 the garrison. 
 
 Upwards of 1300 acres of the park are open to the public; 
 and throughout this large space drives in almost every 
 direction have been formed, or are in progress of for- 
 mation. From difierent points of the park beautiful views 
 are obtained of the more elevated parts of the west end of the 
 city, which is here presented in singularly broken and pictur- 
 esque outlines; as also of that rich tract of the environs, 
 studded with villas of every style, vnih their accompanying 
 trees, stretching southward from the Lifiey to that mag- 
 nificent background, the Dubliu mountains, which finely termi- 
 nate the scene. These views are, of course, varied and modified 
 by the intervening trees of the park, and particularly along its 
 southern banks, by the diversified surface. 
 
 We cannot conclude our brief notice of this fine park, with- 
 out adverting to the two stations whence the west end of the 
 city, in all its singularly-striking irregularity of outline, toge- 
 ther with the adjacent suburbs, are seen in their finest points of 
 view ; namely, one, the gently-swelling ground on which the 
 Wellington testimonial soands ; and the other, the eastern bank 
 of the fosse which encloses the powder magazine. The latter, 
 which lies a little to the west of the testimonial, certainly 
 afibrds the best view, besides having, in addition, in the fore- 
 ground, the intervening hawthorn glen, the testunonial, and the 
 beautiful arch of Sarah bridge, the Irish liialto. This view 
 has been happily seized on by Mr. Petrie, and from his paint- 
 ing various engravings have been made and published. 
 
 To see Dublin and its more innnediate suburbs in a satisfac- 
 tory manner would require at least a week ; a general survey
 
 146 DUBLIN AJSD 
 
 may be made in half the time; and a cursory view obtained in 
 two days. Even for a week our brief notice will afford ample 
 employment; and we will now endeavour to point out what 
 may be accomplished by the tourist whose time is limited to 
 one or two days. 
 
 Taking the Dublin terminus of the Kingstown railway in 
 Westland-row as a starting point, which is close to the Roman 
 Catholic church of St. Andrew, and which may be seen before 
 setting out, proceed along Great Brunswick and D'Olier streets to 
 Carlisle bridge, and there stop and look around at what may be 
 termed a fine city scene. Below the bridge, the river crowded 
 with vessels whose masts conceal the custom-house; above, the 
 finely quayed river, spanned by numerous bridges, and along 
 which on either side wide streets hold a parallel course for at 
 least a mile and a half. To the north, Sackville-street, the 
 most ample of all the streets, being 150 feet in width, and still 
 more remarkable by Nelson's pillar, which occupies its centre ; 
 and on the south by D'Olier and Westmoreland streets, forming 
 with each other an angle of 45 degrees. Proceeding up Sack- 
 ville-street, in which are the post-office and (as we have already 
 observed) Nelson's pillar ; and a few yards distant, in Marlbo- 
 rough-street, which maintains a parallel bearing with Sack- 
 ville-street, are the Eoman Catholic metropolitan church and 
 the Board of Education. Eeturning to Sackville-street, at the 
 head of which are the Rotunda and lying-in hospital, together 
 forming the southern side of Rutland-square. The circuit of 
 this square being made, turn up Great Denmark-street and 
 Gardiner's-place to Mountjoy-square, and thence through a 
 portion of Upper Gardiner-street to Lower Dorset-street, in 
 which the Jesuit chui'ch is passed. Proceed up Lower Dorset- 
 .street, and near the first crossing, where Eccles-street and 
 Temple-street intersect, is the fine modern church of St. George. 
 Pursuing the route along Upper Dorset and Bolton streets, and 
 turning down Capel-street, you soon reach Essex bridge, the 
 third that spans the LifFey. Close to Essex bridge, on Ormonde 
 Quay, is a Presbyterian church, a handsome modern Gothic 
 building ; and a quarter of a mile up the river, on the same 
 side, the Four Courts are reached; and crossing Richmond- 
 bridge, which is close to the Four Courts, and proceeding for a 
 few perches up Winetavern-street, your arrive at Christ church 
 cathedral. At the foot of Winetavern-street, a fine view is ob- 
 is obtained of the river, sevei'al of the bridges, the Four
 
 ITS ENVIRONS. 147 
 
 Courts, the Scots Church, &c., &c. Nearly due south 
 from Christ Church, and at a quarter of a mile distant, 
 is the cathedral of St. Patrick, the direct road between 
 these venerable piles being through Nicholas and Patrick 
 streets. From St. Patrick's cathedi-al, proceed through 
 Peter and York streets to St. Stephen's-green, passing 
 the large Independent chapel at the head of York-street. 
 The College of Surgeons, a handsome erection, is on the west 
 side of the Green, and the Wesleyan Centenary chapel, a neat 
 modern edifice, is on the south side; the principal residences 
 being on the north and east sides. By keeping through Lee- 
 son-street, which is on the south-east corner of Stephen's-green, 
 and turning down FitzwilHam-place, you soon arrive at Fitz- 
 Avilliam-square, and thence by Fitzwilliam-streets, Upper and 
 Lower, to Merrion-square. At the north-west corner of Mer- 
 rion-square is Clare-street, and this, with Leinster and Nassau 
 streets, form a straight and continuous line to Grafton-street. 
 Near the end of Clare-street you pass Kildare-street, in which 
 is the Koyal Dublin Society house ; and in Leinster-street you 
 also pass Dawson-street, in and near which are several of the 
 different hotels already referred to. It may be observed that 
 in passing through Leinster-street, magnificent views are ob- 
 tained of the buildings, the park and gardens of Trinity Col- 
 lege. Turning to the right, at the end of Nassau-street, the 
 house of the provost of Trinity College is soon passed. Oppo- 
 site to it is the Eoyal Irish Academy house, which is a very 
 plain structure; and College-green is soon reached, in which is 
 situated the Bank of Ireland and the principal front and entrance 
 to Trinity College. And although, on account of our limited 
 space, we have refrained from any observations on the fine streets 
 and spacious squares through which we have travelled, and on 
 the splendid buildings we have passed, we cannot here resist 
 directing the tourist's attention to the fine scene before him, 
 the Bank of Ireland being admitted by competent judges to 
 be one of the most beautiful edifices in the empire. Dame- 
 street connects with College-green, and a walk along the for- 
 mer for about a quarter of a mile brings you to the castle of 
 Dublin. In this walk you pass the Eoyal Exchange, which is 
 close to the Castle ; and we may here remark that in Dame-st. 
 and tlie streets adjoining are the Commercial buildings, many 
 of the banking houses, insurance offices, and principal shops 
 of the city. 
 
 From the Castle, proceed along Parliament- street, and then
 
 148 DUBLIN AND 
 
 down the quays by the left side of the Lilfey to the Custom- 
 house, where you are within five minutes' walk of at least a 
 dozen of the principal hotels, besides many minor but com- 
 fortable houses of entertainment. 
 
 As this contour, leading along many of the principal streets, 
 around all the larger squares, and past nearly all the more 
 important public buildings, is accomplished within nine miles, 
 it is evident that this could be readily done by any ordinary 
 pedestrian in a day, allowing ample time for a general view of 
 the exterior of the buildings. 
 
 The second day may be profitably employed in seeing the 
 various docks and quays, the different railway termini, and the 
 Phoenix Park; the third, in visiting the several places of wor- 
 ship; the fourth, to the various hospitals, educational boards, 
 barracks, &c. ; and the fifth, to the two botanical gardens, 
 scientific institutions, &c. In short, as we have already stated, 
 it would require a week to see, in a satisfactoiy manner, Dublin 
 and its immediate suburbs. Every one, however, will, in mat- 
 ters of this kind, follow the bent of his own inclinations, and 
 select such scenes and objects as are most in unison with his 
 pursuits and pleasures. 
 
 ENVIRONS OF DUBLIN. 
 
 The more adorned parts of the environs of Dublin lie gene- 
 rally along the shores of the bay, the banks of the Liftey, and 
 around the suburbs of the city. On the north side of the bay 
 they are, generally speaking, limited to the shores, extending 
 easterly, with some slight interruptions, to the hill of Howth, 
 a distance of nine miles ; on the west of the city, they include 
 the Phoenix Park, and thence westward they are generally 
 confined to the banks of the Liftey as far as Celbridge, which 
 is twelve miles from the city; and on the south they embrace 
 nearly all the plain stretching from the city to the base of the 
 Dublin mountains; and extending eastward from Piathtarnham 
 to Killiney Bay, which latter space includes an area of 24 square 
 miles, or about 15,360 statute acres. From this general de- 
 scription, it will be evident that a cursory view of the environs 
 of Dublin, even with the aid ol' a carriage, will require at least 
 three days. To those, however, who have only one day to de- 
 vote to the environs, we would recommend a drive through the 
 Phoenix Park, atrip to Howth by the railway, and a drive from 
 Dublin to Kingstown, via Donnybrook, Merrion, and Stilorgan. 
 
 The Howth railwav is a branch of the Dublin and Drogheda
 
 ITS ENVIRONS. 149 
 
 line, and the particulars relative to the trains can be learned 
 from the time-tables. 
 
 We would strongly recommend the stranger who visits Howth, 
 however limited his time may be, to ascend, if possible, the 
 summit of the hill, which rises 563 feet above the level of the 
 sea, from whence he will obtain one of the most magnificent 
 views which the environs of Dublin afford, of the bay, city, and 
 country around. The castle, which has been the residence of 
 the ancestors of the earls of Howth since the reign of Henry 
 the Second, is also well worthy of a visit, as are likewise the 
 harbour, church ruins, and various parts of the adjacent shores. 
 
 Indeed, if time permitted, a whole day might be profitably 
 employed in the examination of Howth. We may state that 
 in addition to the various villas which liave been lately erected, 
 there is a comfortable inn at Sutton, which is' on the eastern 
 side of the promontory. 
 
 The Phoenix Park, in its situation, nature, and extent, we 
 have already noticed. 
 
 Kingstown, to which we now return agreeably to our arrange- 
 ments with the tourist on his landing there, was so named in 
 honour of George the Fourth's embarkation for England in 
 1821. It is now the leading name for the improved tract of 
 country lying immediately around it, comprising the localities 
 of Monkstown, Bullock, asd Dalkey, names still known in the 
 fiscal divisions of the district. 
 
 The formation of the harbour at Kingstown and the exten- 
 sion of the railway from Dublin were the great auxiliaries to 
 the success of the town and country around. The harbour 
 was commenced in 1817, and is now near its completion. It 
 was designed as an asylum harbour to vessels frequenting this 
 part of the Irish channel. It cost about £800,000, and en- 
 closes an area of 25 1 acres. It is now the only station for the 
 Liverpool and Holyhead mail-packets, the convict hulks, and 
 ships of war; and is also the rendezvous of the Eoyal St. 
 George's yacht club ; and generally speaking, has fully answered 
 the purposes for which it was built. 
 
 Kingstown, as we have already observed, now generally in- 
 cludes Monkstown; and from its extended streets and other 
 arrangements, begins to assume the appearance of an important 
 suburban town. It contains, in its vicinity, in addition to the 
 parish church, a striking building in the Saracenic style, which 
 is at Monkstown, a Mariners' church, a Free Episcopal church,
 
 150 DUBLIN AND 
 
 a large Eoman Catholic chapel, a Scotch church, Methodist 
 chapel, and Quaker's meeting-house; a beautiful (though 
 small) new Episcopal church and a fine nunnery have also 
 lately been erected at Dalkey. 
 
 Among the hotels we may enumerate the Royal, on Gresham 
 Terrace ; the Anglesea Arms, in the town ; and Marshall's, at 
 Salt Hill. 
 
 It is delightful to mark the numerous improvements which 
 have taken place of late years in this beautiful locaUty; streets, 
 terraces, places, villas, grouped and detached, of every style, 
 size, shape, and form, have sprung up; and great have been 
 the labours necessary for the levelling of the surface and the 
 removal of the granite boulders with which it was in many 
 places thickly covered. It is to be regretted, however, that 
 some general plan of improvement was not sooner adopted. 
 
 Let not the tourist leave Ireland without ascending the hill 
 of Killiney, which adjoins the neighbouring village of Dalkey, 
 and is two miles from the harbour of Kingstown. This hill, 
 which limits the bay of Dublin on the south, and is so impor- 
 tant a feature as well from sea as land, is easy of ascent, and 
 from its summit commands a fine view of Kingstown harbour 
 and its adjuncts; the beautifully villa-studded country lying 
 around it, and running westwards to the city; together with 
 the mountain range on the south, which bounds the rich plain. 
 From this point the city itself is but partially displayed; but 
 the lovely bay and its opposite shores are seen from Killiney 
 hill in, perhaps, their finest point of view. On the east the 
 beautiful bay of Killiney, to which the hill lends its name, is 
 also seen sweeping in circular outline from the base of the hill 
 to the bolder headland of Bray. 
 
 Beautiful and rich as are the views from the Phcenix Park, 
 Howth, and Killiney, to which we have merely directed the 
 tourist's attention, there are still scenes of a more sublime, of a 
 higher, of a more striking, and of a totally different character, 
 within two hours' drive of DubUn, and within one mile of 
 Kingstown. We mean generally the district from Bray to the 
 j;len of the Downs, including the Dargle; Powerscourt demesne, 
 deer park, and waterfall; and the views obtained from the 
 mountain road leading from Dublin to these places. 
 
 These places may be visited in one summer's day, as the 
 length of road, including all the deviations, does not much
 
 ITS ENVIKONS. 151 
 
 exceed 35 miles. In this day's tour, we start from Dublin and 
 proceed as follows : — 
 
 Statute miles. 
 
 Dundrum 4 
 
 Scalp 6 10 
 
 Enniskerry 2 12 
 
 Dargle 1 13 
 
 Waterfall 3 16 
 
 Glen of the Downs 6| 22f 
 
 Glen of the Downs and back to Bray... 5| 28 j 
 
 Bray to Kingstown 7 35|^ 
 
 In this we would recommend the tourist to hire either an out- 
 side car or open carriage, in Dublin, the fare of the former 
 by the day vaiying from ten to twelve shillings, the latter from 
 twenty to twenty-four shillings; and it might be advisable 
 either to have a fresh conveyance at Bray, or should the time 
 answer, proceed by the railway omnibus from Quin's hotel to 
 Kingstown. 
 
 We may here observe that there is a comfortable hotel at 
 Enniskerry, and that Quin's hotel and posting establishment at 
 Bray, is equal to any in the kingdom. 
 
 Should the tourist proceed from Bray to Kingstown, he can 
 either hire a car at Kingstown or proceed by the railway omni- 
 bus to Bray, where he can hire conveyances. At Quin's the 
 rates are sixpence per statute mile for cars, and one shilling 
 for carriages. In this case, he will reverse the order of the 
 above route from Kingstown to Dublin. 
 
 We beg to remark that the portion of the county of Wicklow, 
 to which we are now directing the attention of the tourist, is 
 as regards its surface and scenery of no ordinary kind. It is 
 an endlessly varied and beautiful succession of hill and dale, 
 of mountain and of glen ; and of such a description as none of 
 the larger towns in the empire can boast, at least in similar 
 proximity. The more generally attractive parts which we have 
 made prominent, viz: — The Dargle, the Watei-fall, and the 
 Glen of the Downs ; being merely popular selections from the 
 magnificent scenery around, — scenery too, which presents itself 
 in sublime and picturesquely varied combination from inuumer- 
 able points of view. We make these observations here, as our 
 remarks in accompanying the tourist in the above route must, 
 from our limits, be general and few.
 
 152 DUBLIN AND 
 
 In proceeding from Dublin to Euniskerry, the tourist will 
 pass through a very interesting part of the environs of Dublin, 
 and quite distinct too from that portion lying between the city 
 and Merrion, Stillorgan, and Kingstown. On passing Dundrum, 
 the ascent of the hills, lying between the plain of Dubhn and 
 the glen of Enniskerry, is made ; and as you ascend, extensive 
 views are obtained of the metropolis, its outlets, the bay, 
 Kingstown, and, in short, of all the environs and the country 
 far beyond. 
 
 The Scalp is a very striking, romantic, rocky, chasm, 
 through which the road is carried in its descent from the sum- 
 mit of the hills to the pretty glen in which the peaceful hamlet 
 of Enniskerry is situated. 
 
 The Dargle or dark glen, .is close to Enniskerry. It is a 
 mile in length and very picturesque. Its sides are precipitous, 
 covered with wood, and rise 300 feet above the rocky bed of 
 the mountain stream that " wimples" through it. 
 
 From the higher parts of the glen of the Dargle, particu- 
 larly from the cliffs known as the Lover's Leap, and View- rock, 
 splendid views are obtained of the mountains and rich inter- 
 vening glens, perhaps some of the richest in the county of 
 Wicklow; and, indeed, the drive from the Dargle to the Water- 
 fall passes through a succession of magnificent scenes. 
 
 The Deer-park forms part of the fine demesne of Powers- 
 court, the seat of the Viscount Powerscourt. It occupies the 
 head of one of the deep glens, by which this locality is so 
 singularly diversified. It is extensively wooded, and near the 
 Waterfall the rocky banks are high, steep, and picturesquely 
 broken. 
 
 The Waterfall, the grandeur of which varies in proportion 
 to the volume of water in the stream, is about three hundred 
 feet in height. It is fonned by the Dargle, which here throws 
 its infant waters, collected from the mountains lying around, 
 over the precipitous rocks into the deer-park — the latter 
 constituting, as we have already observed, the head of a deep 
 and finely wooded glen. 
 
 The road from the deer-park to the glen of the Downs lies 
 across the eastern base of the larger sugar- loaf mountains, the 
 grand presiding feature of the scenery connected with this day's 
 day's tour. 
 
 The glen of the Downs forms part of the great leading road 
 from Dublin to Wexford. It is about a mile and a half in
 
 ITS ENVIROXS. 153 
 
 length, its average breadth about 200 feet, and its sides, which 
 are densely wooded, rise to a height of 400 feet. It is altoge- 
 ther a splendid scene, and the cone of the larger sugar-loaf 
 mountain is seen, from various parts of the glen, in its finest 
 points of \new. 
 
 In returning from the glen of the Downs to Bray, we would 
 recommend the tourist to drive through the demesne of Holly- 
 brooke, the seat of Sir G. F. Hodson, Bart., and to ascend the 
 terrace on the south side of his beautiful Elizabethan mansion, 
 whence one of the finest views in the neighbourhood is obtained. 
 From the garden of Quin's hotel at Bray, under a favourable 
 state of the atmosphere, the general outlines, relative bearings, 
 and elevation of the fine assemblage of mountains through 
 which our route lay, can be distinctly traced. From Kings- 
 town to Bray, a succession of richly varied scenery is main- 
 tained; the country, however, is generally of the same charac- 
 ter as the environs of Dublin which we have so briefly noticed. 
 
 To those who are desirous of entering more into the details 
 and various objects of interest connected with the city, the 
 beauties of the environs, and the magnificent scenery of the 
 county of Wicklow, we would recommend the Picture of Dub- 
 lin, and Fraser's Guide to the County of Wicklow; Dublin and 
 its Environs, published by James McGlashan: and we may 
 add, that the Hand-book for Travellers in Ireland, contains a 
 brief, but useful and comprehensive description of Dublin and its 
 environs, and a very full and detailed account, for the tourist, 
 of all the more interesting parts of the county of Wicklow.
 
 INDEX, 
 
 Abbey at Conway 
 
 Aber 
 
 AberfFraw 
 Abercrele station 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 .. 77 
 
 .. 89 
 
 .. 121 
 
 .. 63 
 
 Agreement with government 11 
 
 Amlwch 121 
 
 Ancient mode of travelling 14 
 
 British posts ... 55 i 
 
 caverns 127 
 
 Anecdote of Sir J. Owen 92 
 
 Sir Tudor, Goronwy 107 
 
 W.Williams... 123 
 
 Colonel Carter ... 62 
 
 Anglesea, island of 114 
 
 's, marquis, column 114 
 
 Angling stations 85 
 
 Aston hall 35 
 
 Attractions of Bangor ... 96 
 
 Beaumaris 106 
 
 Back and Fair's report ... 9 
 
 Bagillt 41 
 
 Bangor 94 
 
 cathedral 95 
 
 station 94 
 
 tunnel 93 
 
 Baron hill 106 
 
 Basingwerk abbey, ruins of 42 
 
 Battle of Llandegai ... 91 
 
 Beaumaris 104 
 
 castle 105 
 
 eisteddfod ... 105 
 
 bay 106 
 
 Belmont tunnel 98 
 
 Berw colliery 118 
 
 Bill (C. & H.) brought in 10 
 
 passed ... 1 
 
 Bodelwyddan 61 
 
 Bodorgan 121 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Bodorgan station 121 
 
 Bod-Owen 120 
 
 Bodryddan 54 
 
 Bodysgallen 84 
 
 Braich-y-Ddinas 87 
 
 Brewer's Hall hill 26 
 
 Britannia tubular bridge 98 
 
 Bron wen's urn 123 
 
 Bronywendon 65 
 
 Bryndulas 67 
 
 Bryn Dychwelwch 42 
 
 Bryn Eisteddfod 68 
 
 Buckley church & mountain 33 
 
 Bulkeley, Sir Richard 
 
 Cadnant 
 
 Cae Gwyn 
 
 Caernarvon 
 
 castle 
 
 106 
 104 
 111 
 111 
 121 
 113 
 85 
 98 
 107 
 93 
 
 Caerhun 
 
 Capel Curig 
 
 Castell Aber Lleiniog 
 
 Cegid river 
 
 Chester & Crewe railway co. 6 
 
 Cheshire shore 36, 42 
 
 Chester 19,28 
 
 , curiosities of, ... 20 
 
 , antiquities of, ... 22 
 
 , Eoman roads to, ... 22 
 
 general railway station 23 
 
 Roodee 25 
 
 Dee bridge 26 
 
 Christ Church, Mostyn ... 46 
 Clarendon's (lord) letter... 14 
 
 Colwyn 67 
 
 Connah's Quay 35 
 
 Cornist hall 38 
 
 Conway 68
 
 Conway abbey , 
 
 , attractions of, ... 
 
 castle 
 
 suspension bridge 
 
 tubular bridge . . 
 
 ■ tunnel 
 
 river 
 
 scenes of the 
 source of the 
 
 Craig-y-don . . . 
 Curious tradition 
 relics... 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 . 77 
 
 . 81 
 
 ,. 78 
 
 77 
 
 69 
 
 86 
 
 68 
 
 81 
 
 84 
 
 104 
 
 52 
 
 58 
 
 Cymmerau bay 122 
 
 David, last prince of Wales, 57 
 Dee bridge, Chester ... 25 
 
 Dee river 25, 26, 36 
 
 Deganwy 82 
 
 Denbigh 61 
 
 Downing 45 
 
 Druid's lodge 109 
 
 Duke of Sussex 62 
 
 Dublin and its Environs, 
 
 134 to 153 
 
 Dyserth castle 53 
 
 Early history of this railway 
 
 Glyn garth 
 
 Golden grove 
 
 Gordon & Beechey's report 
 Governor of Flint castle... 
 Great Holyhead railway co. 
 
 Great Ormes Head 
 
 Greenfield hall 
 
 Gronant moor 
 
 Grosvenor, lord R 
 
 Gwespyr marsh 
 
 Gwrych castle 
 
 Halkin mountains 
 
 castle 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 . 104 
 . 52 
 
 Edisbury, lord 
 
 Edward I. at Flint 
 
 Rhuddlan . . 
 
 Conway .. 
 
 Eisteddfod at Beaumaris 
 Estuary of the Dee 
 
 Ewloe castle 
 
 FHnt station 
 
 castle 
 
 Haunts of wild fowl 
 
 Hawarden 
 
 castle .. 
 
 40 
 6 
 64 
 45 
 52 
 10 
 49 
 64 
 37 
 37 
 127 
 30 
 30 
 
 ancient possessors 31 
 119 
 
 Henblas 
 
 Henry III. a prisoner .. 
 
 Henry II 
 
 Hilbree island 
 
 Holyhead 
 
 George IV. at 
 
 packet station and 
 
 asylum harbour 
 124 Holywell 
 
 38Hoylake 
 
 57 Irish railway commission 
 
 79 [Jenkins Mr. W 
 
 105|Kelsterton 
 
 36lKinmel park 
 
 35|Lavan sands 
 
 38|Llanasa 
 
 38JLlandegai 
 
 40 Llandegai tunnel 
 
 George IV. at Holyhead... 125jLlandrillo 
 
 Gen. railway station, Chester 23'Llandulas 
 
 Gigantic lions lOOiLlanddwyn 
 
 Glan-y-don 67|Llanelian ..."... 
 
 Glan Menai 104jLlanerchymedd 
 
 Gloddaeth 83jLlanerchymor 
 
 31 
 41 
 50 
 
 124 
 
 125 
 [ 
 
 129 
 
 43 
 
 50 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 36 
 61 
 89 
 51 
 91 
 93 
 67 
 65 
 
 119 
 67 
 
 121 
 45
 
 157 
 
 Llanfair 
 
 Llanfair fechan ... , 
 Langadwaladr 
 
 Llanfaelog 
 
 Llangaffo church ... 
 
 Llangefni 
 
 Llangwstenyn , 
 
 Llanidan hall 
 
 Llanrwst 
 
 Llantrisant 
 
 Lloydhon. T. P 
 
 Llyn Coron 
 
 Llyn Ogwen 
 
 Llywelyn prince 
 
 Leadbrook 
 
 Magnitude of the works, 
 Malltraeth viaduct . . . 
 Meeting at London... 
 
 Meini Hirion 
 
 Menai bridge (suspension) 1031 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 .. Ill Parry, Eev. H 
 
 . . 88 Parry, Mr. Edward. . . 
 .. 121 Parys Mountain 
 
 .. 122 Pencraig 
 
 .. 118 Pen Dyflfryn 
 
 .. liyPengwern 
 
 . . ' 68 Penmaen Bach tunnel 
 . . Ill Penmaen Mawr 
 
 .. 85 tunnel 
 
 .. 122 Penmaen Ehos tunnel 
 .. 80 Pennant, Col. D., M.P. 
 
 .. 122 Penrhos park 
 
 .. 98 Penrhyn castle 
 
 .. 78| port 
 
 .. 36 slate quarries 
 
 .. 131Pentre Mawr... ... 
 
 .. 118Plas Coch 
 
 7 Plas Gwyn 
 
 88 Plas Newydd 
 
 Straits 
 
 Min-y-don 
 
 Mochdre 
 
 Moel Fammau 
 
 Moel-y-don 
 
 Mold 
 
 Moorsom captain 
 
 Mostyn quay and station. 
 hall 
 
 royal visits to 
 
 103 Plas Pen Mynydd 
 67 1 Point of Air Lighthouses 
 68 Porcelain clay & buhr stone 37 
 
 PAGE. 
 . 51 
 
 7, 10 
 
 121 
 
 117 
 
 86 
 
 58 
 
 86 
 
 87 
 
 87 
 
 66 
 
 90 
 
 124 
 
 90 
 
 93 
 
 96 
 
 63 
 
 Uo 
 
 115 
 IO8 
 IO8 
 116 
 50 
 
 30jPort Dinorwig 
 110 Power of steam 
 
 34 
 131 
 
 46 
 47 
 
 illuminated MSS 48 
 
 testimonial 
 hon. E.M.LI. M.P. 
 sir Pyers, bart. . . . 
 lord 
 
 Nantanog ... . 
 Nant Francon... 
 Newborough ... 
 Opening of the line. 
 Owen Tudor ... . 
 
 Pabo 
 
 Panoramic views . 
 
 49 
 48 
 51 
 58 
 
 122 
 98 
 
 118 
 11 
 
 116 
 68 
 92 
 
 Prestatyn station ... 
 Principality of Wales 
 Prospects of the company 
 Pwll-y-crochon 
 
 Puffin Island 
 
 Queen's ferry station 
 Queen Victoria's descent 
 Receipts and expenditure of 
 
 C. & H. Eailway Co 
 Rhaiadr Mawr 
 Rhoscolyn 
 Rhuddlan 
 
 castle 
 
 marsh 
 
 Rhyl 
 
 Richard IL at Flint 
 
 Uo 
 13 
 53 
 28 
 8 
 68 
 88 
 35 
 
 116 
 
 132 
 90 
 
 122 
 56 
 56 
 62 
 54 
 39
 
 158 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Richard II. inveigled ... 66 
 
 at Conway ... 80 
 
 Ride to Beaumaris 1 04 
 
 Roodee viaduct 2.5 
 
 Ross, Mr., engineer 71 
 
 Saltney station 27 
 
 Sandycroft 30 
 
 Scenes of the Conway ... 81 
 
 Sealand 27 
 
 Siamber Wen 53 
 
 Skinner's monument ... 124 
 Smith, sir F. & Barlow's rept. 9 
 Source of the Conway ... 84 
 South Stack lighthouse ... 126 
 Splendid views ... 83,120 
 Stage coach travelling ... 17 
 Stanley embankment ... 124 
 
 Stanley, lord 126 
 
 Stanley, hon. W. 0. 7, 10 
 
 St. Asaph 59 
 
 St. Bride's chapel 128 
 
 Steam-packets at H.head. 129 
 
 St. George's 63 
 
 St. George's harbour & r. co. 5 
 
 Stephenson, Robert 71 
 
 dinner to 72 
 
 George 5, 6, 7, 76 
 
 St. Winifrede's well ... 44 
 royal \'isits to 45 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Suetonius' army 110 
 
 Suspension bridge, Conway 77 
 
 Talacre 51 
 
 Talargoch lead mines ... 53 
 
 Tan-yr-ogo cave 64 
 
 Tan-yr-allt 65 
 
 Travelling, ancient mode of 16 
 
 Trefdraeth tunnel 119 
 
 Tregarnedd 117 
 
 Tre'rcastell 107 
 
 Tre'r Dry w 117 
 
 Trip to Caernarvon ... 108 
 
 Triumphal arch 126 
 
 Tubular bridge, Conway. . . 69 
 
 Bangor ... 98 
 
 Tunnels 25, 36, 66, 69, 86, 87, 
 93,98, 119 
 
 Tywyn chapel... 
 Tywyn Trewyn 
 Uniacke John, Esq 
 Vale of Clwyd 
 Vale of Llanrwst 
 Viaduct over river Ogwen 
 Cegid 
 
 Malltraeth 
 
 Vaenol 
 
 Wales, entrance to .., 
 — productions of 
 Wepre hall 
 
 128 
 
 122 
 
 6,7 
 
 55 
 
 85 
 
 92 
 
 93 
 
 118 
 
 109 
 
 28 
 
 29 
 
 35 
 
 CHESTEU: I'lUXTIiD BY F. P. KVANS, FOREGATE-STKEET.
 
 REVIEWS, LITERARY NOTICES, &c. 
 
 OF 
 
 PARRY'S RAILWAY COMPANION FROM CHESTER 
 TO HOLYHEAD. 
 
 We most heartily congratulate our friends and the public on 
 the production of this really useful and entertaining Work. 
 Mr. Parry, the spiiited Editor, seems indefatigable in his exer- 
 tions to gratify the tourist and antiquary in the Principality. 
 The researches which Mr. Parry has made in historical lore of 
 the olden time gives a new feature to Publications of this class, 
 and, instead of being a mere compilation, it is replete with 
 original matter, given in a succinct and comprehensive diction. 
 He beguiles the traveller along the line of railway from station 
 to station, pleasingly introducing concisely, yet elaborately, 
 every object worthy of his admiration and wonder, with which 
 the scenery of this line abounds ; and to render " The Com- 
 panion" more acceptable and useful, an excellent Chart, or 
 Map of the Country and Coast, through which the railway 
 passes, embellishes the Work. — Chester Chronicle, August 8, 
 1848. 
 
 Mr. Parry describes in a most pleasing style the various 
 bursts of beautiful scenery tlj^t pass in panorama of exceeding 
 richness before the traveller's eyes, giving at the same time the 
 history of the many old castles and noblemen's seats, &c., on 
 the line of route, which is, in fact, a petite history of North 
 Wales, embracing its ancient traditions, with quaint legends of 
 by-gone days. The topography and the typography are both 
 faultless : we never saw a Guide so well got up. The letter- 
 press is as good as can possibly be produced, and the volume 
 presents as tasty an appearance as an Annual. We most cor- 
 dially, \vithout the sHghtest reserve, recommend this elegant, 
 entertaining, and instructive little Work to the patronage of the 
 public. Many thousands of volumes issue from the press with- 
 out possessing half of the genuine claims on the general reader 
 that the Railway Companion before us ought to command. We 
 hope the VV^ork will remunerate its enterprising Author. — 
 Shropshire Conservative , Oct. 21, 1848. 
 
 A lively and correct description of the great national railway 
 between Chester and Holyhead, with accurate notices of the 
 historic monuments of an interesting portion of North Wales. — 
 Manchester Chiardian.
 
 REVIEWS, ETC. 
 
 This Work seems to be a real desideratum — an intelligent 
 guide and a very amusing and agreeable companion, treating 
 the various towns, villas, seats, and objects, that present them- 
 selves to the eye during the railway transit, in a mode likely 
 to induce the tourist to make a nearer acquaintance with them ; 
 whilst at the same time it embodies all the material points in 
 the history of the formation of the railway itself, and the most 
 copious and useful directions to the traveller. — Carnarvon 
 Herald, July 22, 1848. 
 
 This Work is indispensable for every one who wishes to be 
 acquainted with the many grand and interesting objects which 
 u ride along that beautifully picturesque line will present to his 
 view. In addition to the usual contents of a Guide-book, it 
 includes a narrative of the early and parliamentary history of 
 the project, and some curious information respecting the ancient 
 modes of travelling as contrasted with the celerity and improved 
 accommodation of the present day. — Liverpool Courier, of 
 Aug. 2, 1848. 
 
 This will be found a very useful and interesting guide to the 
 country which the Chester and Holyhead Railway traverses ; 
 while the price at which it is published will no doubt secure 
 for it a general demand. — Chester Courant, August, 1848. 
 
 Brynestyn, July 25, 1848. 
 Dear Sir, — The Railway Guide which you sent me is the 
 cheapest book I ever bought, considering the instructive, 
 amusing, and valuable matter it contains. 
 Yours truly, 
 
 William Lloyd. 
 From Sir William Lloyd, 
 Author of the Tours in the Himalaya. 
 
 Mr. Parry deserves our special thanks, for he has made even 
 that most unpoetic and innovating of modern inventions — the 
 Railway — to subserve the cause of Archaaology. Along the 
 entire line from Chester to Holyhead, every object of note, 
 whether in nature or art, is pointed out and graphically pour- 
 trayed in the " Companion." — Archceologia Cambrensis.
 
 JAMES JONES, 
 
 MILITARY BOOT MAKER, 
 
 BRIDGE STREET ROW, CHESTER. 
 
 Hunting, Shooting, Fishing, Court, Ball, Dkess 
 Boots and Shoes. 
 
 Anticropilos for riding, & Boot Trees made to order. 
 
 Ladies' Orders executed in the first Parisian (f- London styles. 
 
 N. B. Where no measure is taken, by sending a pattern 
 Boot or Shoe, a pair can be made to correspond, or with any 
 alteration that is required. — Repairs done in a superior manner. 
 
 ANCHOR HOTEL, SALTNEY 
 STATION, 
 
 ONE MILE FROM CHESTER. 
 
 MESSRS. T. & W. ROWLAND 
 
 Beg to inform their Friends and the Public that they have 
 entered upon the above Hotel, where every comfort and conve- 
 nience are afforded to their Customers. 
 
 Wines and Spirits of the best quality. 
 
 VERY SUPERIOR WREXHAM ALE. 
 
 Dr. Abernethy used to observe, " that the most wholesome 
 beverage that a man could drink was good ale," quaintly 
 adding, "but where was it to be found.?" We unhesitatingly 
 say, HERE ! Orders for which will be duly attended to.
 
 J. G. SHAW, 
 
 157, BRIDGE-STREET, CROSS, CHESTER, 
 
 IRONMONGER, 
 
 Cutler, and General Hardwareman. 
 
 Manufacturer of improved wrought-iron Kitchen 
 Ranges, Iron Bedsteads, Baths, &c. 
 
 Drawing and Dining-room Grates, Fenders and Fire 
 Irons, in great variety. 
 
 Kitchen Furniture and Culinary Utensils. 
 
 Papier Machee and Japanned Trays, Tea Urns, and 
 Swing Kettles. 
 
 Weighing Machines, Scales, Weights, and Measures. 
 
 Agricultural and Gardening Implements, and all 
 sorts of mechanical and edge Tools. 
 
 Ovens, Boilers, Smoke Preventers, and every variety 
 of cast and wrought iron work, in all its applications. 
 
 MOSTYN ARMS, ST. ASAPH. 
 
 ROBERTS' 
 
 FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL, 
 
 POSTING HOUSE, &c. 
 
 GOOD STABLING AND JLOCK-TJP COACH HOUSES. 
 
 Moderate Charges. 
 
 The city of St. Asaph, six miles from the Rhyl 
 Railway Station, on the direct road from thence to the 
 towns of Denbigh, Ruthin, &c. is the centre of a 
 district presenting peculiar attractions to sportsmen 
 and anglers, and which has been not inaptly termed 
 " Wales in miniature ;" having within its range speci- 
 mens of all the distinguishing features of that land of 
 romance.
 
 JOHN LOWE, 
 GOLDSMITH AND JEWELLER, 
 
 6, BRIDGE-STREET ROW, 
 CHESTER. 
 
 MOURxNING RINGS ON THE SHORTEST xNOTICE. 
 JOHN THOMPSON, 
 
 ENGRAVER, 
 
 Lithographic and Copper-Plate Printer, 
 BRIDGE-STREET ROW, CHESTER. 
 
 Portraits and Landscapes Printed from Stone or 
 Copper, in a superior style. 
 
 LITHOGRAPHIC STONES HIRED OUT. 
 
 J. F. WATHEW, 
 
 WHOLESALE AND RETAIL 
 
 GOLDSMITH, JEWELLER, 
 
 AND WATCHMAKER, 
 
 No. 69, 
 
 EASTGATE STREET ROW, CHESTER.
 
 PARRY AND SON, 
 
 PEINTEES, BOOKSEILERS & STATIONERS, 
 
 Mmic and Musical Instruments, 
 
 RELIGIOUS TRACT DEPOSITORY, 
 
 98, EASTGATE-STREET, CHESTER. 
 
 DEALER IN PATENT MEDICINES. 
 
 N. B. A liberal allowance made to Schools ; and 
 British Schools supplied on the same terms as at the 
 Borough Road, London. 
 
 BOWYER & BELL, 
 
 (late Sinclair's) 
 
 ROMAN CEMENT AND PLASTER OF PARIS 
 
 MANTTFACTURERS, 
 
 NEAR THE UNION BRIDGE, 
 
 CHESTER. 
 
 T. ELLIS, 
 BOOKBINDER AND STATIONER, 
 
 EASTGATE STREET NORTPI ROW, 
 
 CHESTER. 
 
 PAPER RULED BY MACHINE TO ANY PATIERN.
 
 DR. LOCOCK'S 
 
 FOR BEAUTIFYING 
 
 THE HAIR, 
 
 AS USED BY 
 
 HER MAJESTY THE aUEEN. 
 
 To intrinsic qualities of usefulness and elegance, this cele- 
 brated preparation adds the eclat of the name of a distinguished 
 Court Phi'siciax, and the approval of Her Most Gracious 
 Majesty. 
 
 This Powerful Agent will reproduce Hair, which may- 
 have prematurely fallen, before the bulbs are atrophied, and 
 will certainly delay the disastrous contingencies, — a Grey and 
 a Bald head. It stimulates the process of nutrition in the 
 bulbs of the hair, and so produces a more Luxuriant Growth 
 of this Natural Decoration. The shafts of the Hair so 
 produced are Firm in Texture and Smooth on the Surface : 
 the Hair thus acquires a good sit, and a Fine Gloss. 
 
 The Lotion has great merits as a detergent, it cleans the 
 Scalp skin, and effectually eradicates Scurf. 
 
 Prepared from the Recipe of Dr. Charles Locock, Physician to 
 
 Her Majesty, by 
 
 J. HOPE, CHEMIST, 
 
 139, NOETHGATE-ST. CHESTER, 
 And sold in Bottles, 2s. Toilette Bottles, 3s. 6d. 
 
 The trial of a single bottle will prove the great 
 stiperlority of 
 
 HOPE'S LOCOCK'S LOTION.
 
 GEORGE HASWELL, 
 STATUARY & FIASON, 
 
 KALE YARDS, CHESTER, 
 
 WHOLESALE AJfD RETAIL 
 
 Dealer in all kinds of York Stone, Flags, Steps, 
 Curb Stones, &c. of aU dimensions. 
 
 MONUMENTS, TOMBS, #0. 
 
 PRINCE LLYWELYN INN AND POST OFFICE, 
 
 ABERFFRAW, ANGLESEA. 
 
 WILLIAM JONES 
 
 Begs to return his best thanks to those Ladies and Gentlemen 
 who have honoured him with their company since he has taken 
 the above Inn, and respectfully solicits their future patronage 
 and support, which he hopes to merit by a continuance of the 
 greatest attention to their comfort. 
 
 The House will be found a most desirable Residence for 
 those who seek retirement, or are recommended Sea Air and 
 Bathing. 
 
 To Tourists, and those who wish to unite cheapness with 
 comfort of living, few places in the Principality will be found 
 equal. 
 
 To Anglers it offers facilities for pursuing their favourite 
 diversion seldom to be met with — being within twenty minutes' 
 walk of the justly-celebrated Lake of Llyn Coron, well 
 stored with Trout and Salmon of the largest size, &c. ; and on 
 the Bank of which he has lately erected a Fishing Lodge, for 
 their accommodation, 
 
 BOATS FOR HIRE CONSTAJ^TLY KEPT ON THE LAKE. 
 
 Gentlemen Boarded by the Week if required. 
 
 A DAILY POST TO THE INN.
 
 Preparing for ilie Press, and shortly will he Published, in one 
 handsome Volume, quarto size, price to Subscribers, small 
 paper, £\ \s. Od., large royal paper, £2 2s. Od. 
 
 DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO HER JIOST GRACIOUS 
 MAJESTY THE QUEEN, 
 
 A NEW WOEK, ENTITLED 
 
 HOYAL VISITS TO WALES ; 
 
 Or, Historical Records relative to the different 
 
 Objects and Progress of the various 
 
 SAXON, NORMAN, AND ENGLISH MONARCHS 
 
 in the Principality, from the invasion of Ethelfred, King of Nor- 
 thumberland, who slew the Monks of Bangor, for asserting the 
 INDEPENDENCE of the ANCIENT BRITISH CHURCH, 
 at the Battle of Chester, a.d. 607, to the friendly Visit of our 
 Most Gracious Majesty 
 
 aUEEN VICTORIA, 
 
 with numerous Historical and important Facts from Ancient 
 MSS., never before published, connected with the Union of Eng • 
 land with Wales, and the happy result that followed. Illus- 
 trated with a profusion of Pictorial and Historical Engravings, 
 and a new and approved Portrait of Her Majesty, engraved 
 in the first style of the art, from a Painting in the Royal 
 Collection. 
 
 BY EDWARD PARRY, 
 
 Author of " The Cambrian Mirror,' * Railway Companion from 
 Chester to Holyhead,' 'The Panorama of Chester,' &c. &c. 
 The Work is patronized by the following distinguished per- 
 sonages: — Large Paper Copies. 
 Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen, 10 
 His Royal Highness Prince Albert ... 5 
 H. R. H. Prince of Wales 5 Hon. E. M. LI. Mostyn, M.P. 2 
 H. R. H. the Princess Royal 2 Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart., M.P. 2 
 H. R. H. Princess Alice 2 Sir William Wynn, Knight . 2 
 H. R. H. Prince Alfred ... 2 Sir R. B. Williams Bulkeley, 
 
 H.R. H. Princess Helena... 2 Bart., M.P 2 
 
 H. R. H. Princess Louisa. . 2 Sir Pyers Mostyn, Bart. ... 1 
 The Rt. Hon. Earl of Powis 2 Sir Stephen R. Glynne, Bart. 1 
 Rt. Hon. Earl Grosvenor, M.P. 2 Sir John Owen, Bart , M.P. 1 
 Et. Hon. Lord Kenyon ... 1 Sir W. Lloyd, Brynestyn ... 1 
 And others, too numerous to insert. 
 *:„* As it is intended to limit the number of copies for Sub- 
 scribers only, the Author will feel obliged by an early application. 
 A List of the Names will be appended at the end of the Work.
 
 BY APPOINTMENT TO THE aXJEEN. 
 
 RICHARD BOLLAND, 
 CONFECTIONER, 
 
 EASTGATE ROW, CHESTER, 
 
 Successor to the late Mrs. THOMAS, 
 
 (No other person having the purchase and use of her Eeceipts 
 for the manufacturing of Bride Cakes.) 
 
 WEDDING BREAKFASTS 
 
 Furnished in whole or part. 
 
 PIC -NIC PARTIES SUPPLIED. 
 
 French and Ornamental Confectionery. 
 
 Parties visiting Chester will find his REFRESH- 
 MENT ROOMS replete with 
 SOUPS, PIES, JELLIES, ICES, &c. 
 PASTRY IN VARIETY. 
 
 EDWARD BODEN, 
 
 PHARHACEUTICAL CHEMIST, 
 
 EASTGATE ROW, CHESTER. 
 
 Medicines Dispensed by the Principal personally, or under 
 his immediate inspection. 
 
 Every Drug and Chemical may be obtained at the above 
 Establishment directed in the Pharmacopeias of the colleges of 
 Surgeons of London, Edinburgh, and Dublin, as well as many 
 of those ordered by the continental and American Colleges. 
 
 Boden's celebrated Lavender Water.
 
 CELEBRATED WELSH ALE. 
 
 EELSTERTON BREWERY, 
 
 (Established in the year 1818,) 
 
 Three miles from the town of Flinty and three 
 from the Queen's Ferry. 
 
 EDWARD BATE 
 
 Begs to inform the inhabitants of North Wales 
 and the public generally, that in consequence of 
 the facilities afforded by the opening of the Ches- 
 ter and Holyhead Railway, for the transmission of 
 goods, he is enabled to forward to any station upon 
 the line, with the least possible delay, his Mild and 
 Bitter Ales, Pokter, and Table Beer, which 
 have maintained their celebrity for so many years, 
 and which he can with the greatest confidence 
 recommend. 
 
 N. B. All orders addressed to Mr. Bate, Kel- 
 sterton Brewery, near Flint, will meet with the 
 most prompt attention. 
 
 ^:^ Empty casks and other goods for Kel- 
 sterton Brewery, to be forwarded to the Flint 
 Station.
 
 LEWIS LLOYD, 
 
 (Late of the Oahley Arms Inn, Tan-y-bwlch, Merionethshire,) 
 
 Begs to inform the Nobility, Families, Commercial 
 Gentlemen, and Tourists, that he has taken and 
 entered upon the 
 
 CROWN & ANCHOR INN, 
 
 PWLLHELI, 
 CAERNARVONSHIRE, 
 
 In which he has commenced considerable alterations 
 and improvements, which will be perfected by the 
 month of May next ; when he hopes by pursuing the 
 same liberal course of management which character- 
 ised his conduct at his late residence, as well to secure 
 the Patrons of his predecessor at the Crown, as to 
 obtain a large addition of Visitors to his new abode. 
 
 Pwllheli is within 30 miles of Bangor, 20 miles from 
 Caernarvon, 14fromTremadoc,and21 from Beddgelert. 
 
 The Chester and Holyhead Railway, now open to 
 Bangor, affords great facility for visiting this favoured 
 spot. There is a daily mail from London. ^ Coaches 
 arrive and leave twice daily. English Service at the 
 Church every Sunday. 
 
 The Salubrity of the air is unrivalled, and the beach 
 offers the greatest inducement for Sea Bathing, being 
 certainly the best in the Principality, and is second to 
 none. The surrounding scenery, commanding exten- 
 sive and varied views of the Merionethshire Moun- 
 tains — Cardigan Bay — St Tadwell's Island and Roads, 
 is not to be surpassed. Aberystwith is within six 
 hours' sail. 
 
 Private rooms for Families. Wines and Spirits of 
 the best quality. Lock-up Coach-houses. Neat Chaises 
 and Cars, and careful Drivers. 
 
 Pwllheli, April 1849.
 
 D. M^GKEGOR, 
 
 GREEN DRAGON 
 
 COMMERCIAL & FAMILY INN, 
 EASTGATE STREET, 
 
 CHESTER. 
 
 GEORGE MARSH, 
 DRAPER AND TAILOR, 
 
 5, BRIDGE-STREET ROW, CHESTER, 
 
 Invites the attention of the Public to his annexed list of prices, 
 for every Article of Gentlemen's Clothing of the best materials 
 and workmanship. 
 
 3IADE TO MEASURE. 
 
 £ s. d. £ s. d. 
 
 Black Dress Coats 1 4 6 to I 10 
 
 Ditto, or Invisible Green 1 10 — I 15 
 
 Extra Saxony ditto ditto 1 18 — 2 2 
 
 Extra Wool-dyed Woaded ditto 2 2 — 2 10 
 
 Frock Coats, extra 2 — 3 
 
 Black Doe Trousers 15 — 18 
 
 Ditto, or Oxford ditto 17 6 — 1 1 
 
 Black Doe ditto, (very best) 13 — 140 
 
 Ditto Vest 8 — 12 
 
 White Dress ditto 9 — 9 6 
 
 Suit of Black 2 8 — 4 6 
 
 Velveteen Shooting Coats 1 0—1 1 
 
 Superfine Black Cloth or Invisible ditto 1 4 6 — 110 
 
 Summer Vests 8 or three for 1 1 
 
 Ditto Trousers, from 12 
 
 Ditto Black Lustre Coats 14 6 to 18 
 
 FOR READY MONEY ONLY. 
 
 Boys' Clothes and Liveries equally reasonable. One trial 
 will convince the- most sceptical. 
 
 N.B. — Sole Agent for H. J. & D. Nicholls' unrivalled 
 registered Paletot Coat, 120, Regent-street, London. 
 
 FUNERALS FURNISHED.
 
 WOOD BEOTHERS, 
 
 IRON WORKS & STORES, 
 
 Chester, Stourh^idge^ Sf Wolverhampton. 
 
 HENRY WOOD & Co. Goree, Liyeepool, 
 
 GEO. WOOD k Co. 275, Wapping, Lokdon, 
 
 Manufacturers of every description of 
 
 CHAIN'S, CABLSS, ANCHORS, CASTINGS, 
 
 Nails, Shovels and Spades, Anvils, Vices, 
 
 Hammers, Scrap-Hammered Iron, Uses, Engineers' 
 
 Forged Iron, and Smiths' Work, &c. &c. 
 
 JOHN DAVIES, 
 
 (successor to ROBERT FLETCHER,) 
 
 LEVER WATCH & CLOCK 3IAKER, 
 
 SILVERSMITH AND JEWELLER, 
 Has always on hand a large assortment of 
 
 GOLD AND SILVER 
 
 SECOND-HAND WATCHES AND PLATE. 
 
 OLD GOLD, SILVER, AND PRECIOUS STONES 
 TAKEN IN EXCHANGE. 
 
 TURRET CLOCKS 
 
 MADE AND REPAIRED.
 
 ATLAS ASSURANCE COMPANY, 
 
 92, CHEAPSIDE, LONDON, 
 Established 1808. 
 
 DIRECTORS. 
 
 John Oliver Hanson, Esq. Chairman. 
 William George Prescott, Esq. Deputy Chairman. 
 
 Sir William Baynes, Bart, 
 Arthur Edward Campbell, Esq 
 Thomas Chapman, Esq. F.R.S. 
 William Laforest, Esq. 
 Donald Maclean, Esq. 
 
 Samuel Eustace Magan, Esq. 
 Moses Mocatta, Esq. 
 James William Ogle, Esq. 
 Emanuel Pacifico, M.D. 
 Joseph Pulley, Esq. 
 
 Auditors _ 
 
 Francis Bligh Hookey, Esq. and Arthur Augustus Rasch, Esq. 
 
 Actuary — Charles Ansell, Esq. F.R.S. 
 
 Solicitor — Thomas Browning, Esq. 
 
 Surveyor — Thomas Hopper, Esq. 
 
 FIRE DEPARTMENT. 
 
 Returns. — Policies for £300 and upwards which may have 
 been in force for one year prior to the date to which the Account 
 is made up, will be periodically entitled to participate in the 
 return of Surplus Premium. 
 
 Farming Stock is now exempt from Duty, and may be 
 assured without the average clause. 
 
 On assurances for seven years by one payment, a deduc- 
 tion of one-seventh part of the premium and duty will be made. 
 
 LIFE DEPARTMENT. 
 The attention of the public has, in the advertisements and 
 proposals of this Company of late years, been called to a Table 
 of Additions applicable to and expectant on Policies of parti- 
 cular dates and ages; the Directors now beg to submit the 
 following statement of Claims actually paid, showing the 
 Sums respectively assured and the Bonuses thereon, and they 
 request, in order to exemplify the advantageous plan of Assur- 
 ance proposed by this Company, that persons desirous of effect- 
 ing Assurances on their Own Lives or on the Lives of Others, 
 ■will compare the statement now submitted, with the Addition 
 or Bonus of any of the other Offices which may apply to a 
 Policy issued by them since 1816, when the Atlas Company 
 adopted the Bonus System. [over
 
 ATLAS ASSURANCE COMPANY. 
 
 Statement of Claims paid 07i Policies effected in London or 
 through an Agent in Great Britain. 
 
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 ATLAS ASSURANCE COMPANY. 
 
 Persons assured for the whole term of Life, for £100 and up- 
 wai-ds, in Great Britain or Ireland respectively, -will be entitled 
 at the end of every fifth year (instead of every seventh year 
 as heretofore) to participate in the Surplus Premiums, either by 
 addition to their Policies, or an equivalent reductioit 
 will be made in the future payments of Premium, at the option 
 of the Assured. 
 
 Policies may also be effected for the whole term of Life by a 
 limited number of yearly payments. 
 
 Assurances for Short-periods may now be effected in this 
 Office at considerably reduced rates of premium. 
 
 The next Valuation will be made at Christmas 1849, and 
 Policies effected before that date, will participate in proportion 
 to the time they may then have been in force. 
 
 The Company's Rates and Proposals may be had at the 
 Office in London or of any of the Agents in the Country, who 
 are authorized to report on the appearance of Lives proposed 
 for Assurance. 
 
 HENRY DESBOROUGH, Secretary. 
 
 92, Cheapside, May, 1849. 
 
 the agents 
 
 For the Company at the following places are, viz. : — 
 
 Chester Mr. T. Catherall. 
 
 Chester " G. Prichard. 
 
 Altringham " P. Leicester. 
 
 Bangor " R. M. Griffiths. 
 
 Congleton " J. Wilson. 
 
 Llanymynech " J. Jones. 
 
 Ludlow " E. J. Partridge. 
 
 Macclesfield " R. Turner. 
 
 Nantwich " E. H. Griffiths. 
 
 Northwich " R. NewhaU. 
 
 Oswestry >..... " Jno. Hughes. 
 
 Ruthin " Robt. Jones. 
 
 Shrewsbury Messrs. J. Watton & Son. 
 
 Wem Mr. R. Onslow. 
 
 Whitchurch , " R. B. Jones.
 
 BOOKS 
 
 LATELY PUBLISHED BY 
 
 THOMAS CATHERALL, 
 
 EASTOATZ: TiO'Vr, CHSSTEB. 
 
 PARRY'S CAMBRIAN MIRROR, 
 
 WITH NEW MAP, AND OTHER ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 PARRY'S RAILWAY COMPANION 
 
 FROM CHESTER TO SHREWSBURY, WITH MAP, 
 Price Is. 6d. 
 
 PARRY'S NEW TRAVELLING MAP OF NORTH 
 AND SOUTH WALES, 
 
 With part of England, in a neat cloth case, price Is. 6d. 
 
 A DESCRIPTION OF THE 
 
 CONWAY TUBULAR BRIDGE AND CASTLE, 
 
 WITH ENGRAVING, 6d. 
 
 THE STRANGER'S COMPANION 
 IN CHESTER, 
 
 With a Plan of the City. Price Is. 6d. bound in cloth. 
 
 THE HISTORY OF CHESTER CATHEDRAL, 
 
 By John Hicklin, Editor of the ' Chester Courant,' Is. 
 
 BY THE SAME AUTHOR, 
 
 THE LIVES OF THE LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN, 
 
 Price Is. 
 
 THE HISTORY OF BEESTON CASTLE, 
 Price 6d.
 
 ^C\ky,
 
 This book is DUE on the last 
 date stamped below 
 
 
 JUH2 
 
 8\97^ 
 
 ?»j/-3 0,'48(B1040)470
 
 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 
 B 000 010 085 9