■ ;_
 
 H 
 
 a 
 
 «S 
 
 "ft* 
 
 [ I 1 
 
 TO V - » 
 
 JOSEPH BANKS, Efq; 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 I Think myfelf fo much indebted to you, for making 
 me the vehicle for conveying to the public the rich 
 difcovery of your lafl voyage, that I cannot difpenfe with 
 |j. this addrefs the ufual tribute on fuch occalions. You 
 
 2 took from me all temptation of envying your fuperior 
 §> good fortune, by the liberal declaration you made that 
 
 the Hebrides were my ground, and yourfelf, as you 
 
 3 pleafantly exprefTed it, but an interloper. May I meet 
 o with fuch, in all my adventures ! 
 
 Without lefTening your merit, let me fay that no one 
 has lefs reafon to be fparing of his ftores of knowlege. 
 co pew poffefs fo large a fhare : you enjoy it without often- 
 tation ; and with a facility of communication, the refult 
 of natural endowments joined with an immenfity of 
 obfervation, collected in parts of the world, before, 
 either of doubtful exigence, or totally unknown. You 
 have enriched yourfelf with the treafures of the globe, 
 by a circumnavigation, founded on the moil liberal and 
 fcientific principles. 
 
 a The 

 
 u 
 
 DEDICATION. 
 
 The xvith century received luftre from the numbers of 
 generous volunteers of rank and fortune, who diftin- 
 guifhing themfelves by the contempt of riches, eafe, and 
 luxury, made the moft hazardous voyages, like yourfelf> 
 animated by the love of true glory.. 
 
 In reward, the name of Banks will ever exifl with 
 thofe of Clifford, Raleigh and Willughby, on the 
 rolls of fame, celebrated in fiances of great and enter- 
 prizing fpirits : and the arffiic Solander muft remam 
 a fine proof that no climate can prevent the feeds of 
 knowlege from vegetating in the breaft of innate abi- 
 lity. 
 
 You have had j.ufUy a full triumph decreed to you by 
 your country. May your laurels for ever remain un- 
 blighted !. and if fhe has deigned to twine for me. a 
 civic wreath, return to me the fame good wifh. 
 
 I am,, with every due acknowlegement,. 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 Your obliged, and 
 
 Downing, 
 
 March i, i;74» 
 
 moil obedient humble Servant, 
 THOMAS PENNANT.
 
 [ m 3 
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 THIS journey was undertaken in the fummer of 1772, in order 
 to render more complete, my preceding tour ; and to allay 
 that fpecies of reftleifnefs that infe&s many minds, on leaving 
 any attempt unfinifhed, Confcious of my deficiency in feveral re- 
 fpects, I prevaled on two gentlemen to favor me with their 
 company, and to fupply by their knowlege what I found wanting 
 in myfelf. 
 
 To the Rev. Mr. John Light foot^ lecturer of Uxbridge, I am 
 obliged for all the botanical remarks fcattered over the following 
 pages. But it gives me great pleafure to fay that he means to 
 extend his favors, by foon giving to the public a Flora Scotica, 
 an ample enumeration and hiitory of the plants obferved by him 
 in the feveral places we vifited. To Mr. Lightfoot, I mud join 
 in my acknowlegements, the Rev. Mr. John Stuart of Killin, for a 
 variety of hints, relating to cufbms of the natives of the highlands, 
 and of the iilands, which by reafon of my ignorance of the Erfe 
 or Galic language, muft have efcaped my notice. To both I was 
 indebted for all the comforts that arife from the fociety of 
 agreeable and worthy companions. 
 
 I muft not omit my thanks to the feveral gentlemen who favored 
 me at different times with accounts and little hiftories of the places 
 of their refidence, or their environs. To begin with the mod 
 fouthern, my bed acknowlegements are due to 
 
 Mr. Aikin, Surgeon, for the account of IVarrington. 
 
 a 2 Mr.
 
 it ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 Mr. Thomas V/eji favored me with feveral things relating to the 
 North of Lancajhire. 
 
 Doctor Brownrigg, the Rev. Doctor Burn, Jofeph Nicholfon, Efq-, 
 of Hawkfiery, and the Rev. Mr. Farijh of Carlijle, afforded me large 
 fupplies relating to their counties of IVeJlmorekind and Cumberland. 
 
 In Scotland, John Maxw.el, Efq; of Broomholme, and Mr. Utile 
 of Langholme favored me with feveral remarks relating to Ejlcdale. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Jaffray, minifter of Ruthwell, with a hiitory of 
 his parifh. 
 
 Sir William Maxwell, Bart, of Spring keld, with variety of draw- 
 ings, found at the Roman ftation at Burrens *. 
 
 John Goldie, Efq-, of Dumfries, fupplied me with numbers of ob- 
 fervations on that town and county. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Duncan Macfarlane of Drummondy with an account 
 of his parifli. 
 
 Mr. John Golborn, engineer, with an account of Glafgow, and 
 various mifcellaneous remarks. 
 
 For the excellent account of Paijley, I am indebted to Mr. 
 Francis Douglas. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. GerJJocm Stuart fent me materials for an* account 
 of the ifle of Arran. 
 
 Alexander Campbel, Efq-, of Ballole, and Charles Freebain, Efq; 
 communicated feveral obfervations relating to the ifle of Hay. 
 
 Joseph Banks, Efq; communicated to me his defcription of 
 Staffa ; and permitted my artift to copy as many of the beautiful 
 drawings in his collection, as would be of ufe in the prefent work. 
 
 * I muft not otjiit my thanks to the Rev. Mr. Cordiner, minifter of the epifcQpal 
 chapel at Bamjf, for an elegant drawing of the urn in the preceding volume. 
 
 I muft
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 I mull acknowlege myfelf in a particular manner indebted to 
 the Rev. Mr. Donald Macquin of Kilmuir, in the ifle of Skz'e, for a 
 molt inftructive correfpondence relating to the antient cuftoms 
 of the place, and to its various antiquities. A fmall part I have 
 mingled with my own account : but the greater fbare, in juftice 
 to the merit of the writer, I have delivered unmutilated in the 
 Appendix to the third volume. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Dounie, minifter of Gair-Ioch, obliged me with 
 various remarks on his neighborhood. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Donald Macleod of Gknelg, the fame, refpecling 
 his. 
 
 To Doctor Ram/ay of Edinburgh, I mull return thanks, for a 
 variety of fervices : to Mr. George Paton of the fame place, for an 
 indefatigable and unparalleled afiiduity in procuring from all parts 
 any intelligence that would be of ufe to the work in view. 
 
 PLATES.
 
 [ vi ] 
 
 A T E S. 
 
 F.ontifpiece. A Angular Ifle of the Eaft fide of Lismore. 
 
 I. No. I. Druidical temple near Keswick. II. Tripodal pot, 43 
 
 p. 28, Ilf. filver. plate, vide additions. IV. Altar, p. 60. 
 
 II. Skiddaw mountain, 46 
 •III. Antiquities. No. I. xGauliJh figure, p. 55. No. II. head of Jupiter, p. 
 
 77. No. III. another head, ibid. 63 
 IV. Warwick church, and arch of the door. No. I. the plan of Wetherel 
 
 cells, p. 60. 86 
 
 V. View of Wetherel cells, 70 
 VI. No. I. Fortune. II. a Terminus, a female Faun. III. Three fol- 
 
 diers, barbarians, 83 
 
 VII. Mifcellaneous antiquities, 84 
 
 ■VUL Caerlavoroc cattle, 109 
 
 IX. Lincluden abby, 119 
 
 X. Countefs of Galloway's tomb in that abby, 120 
 
 XI. Earl Douglas's tomb in Douglas church, 134. 
 
 XII. Rothesay cattle, in the ifle of Bute, 181 
 
 XIII. Loch-Ranza bay, and the manner of taking the balking (hark, 192 
 
 XIV. The crag of Ailsa, and a view of the cattle, 216 
 XV. Sheelins in Jura, and a diftant view of the Paps. 
 
 * A cottage in Ilav, 246 
 XVI. * Infide of a poor weaver's cottage in Ilay, 261 
 XVII. The abby in Oransay, 269 
 XVIIt. The cloifters of the fame abby, 270 
 XIX. # The crofs in Oransay; and the lhaft of another in Killarow church- 
 yard, in Ilay, 270 
 XX. Tomb in the abby of Oransay, 270 
 XXI. View of Jona, from the found, 277 
 
 XXII. The cathedral in Jona, 289 
 
 XXIII. Infide of the fame, 290 
 
 XXIV. Tombs in the cathedral and nunnery, 290 
 XXV. Chart of Jona, Stakfa, and the other ifles of Mull, 298 
 
 XXVI. No. I. View down the firth of Clyde, 299 
 
 II. of Staffa, &c. 
 
 XXVII. * View of the Eatt columns in Staffa, 300 
 
 '■* All marked thus are taken from the drawings communicated by Mr. Banks. 
 
 2 XXVI1J.
 
 PLAT E & 
 
 XXVIir. *FiNGAL'scave, 301 
 
 XXIX. * Ifle of Buachail.le, 303 
 
 XXX. * Bending pillars, 304 
 
 XXXI. * Part of the fame, and a view of.BuACHAiLLE, 305 
 
 XXXII. View in Can nay, 316 
 
 XXXIII. No. I. Dryas oclopetala. II» CherJeria fedoides. Found on Baike- 
 
 <val, in Rum, 327 
 
 XXXIV. Women at the Quern, and at the Luagb, with a view of Talyskir g28 
 
 XXXV. View from Beinn-nacaillicb, in Skie, 329 
 
 XXXVI. Danijb fort in Bracadale, 336 
 
 XXXVII. View of Dun vegan cattle, and the loch beyond, 338 
 
 XXXVIII. Dun-tuilm cattle, 350 
 XXXIX. Eriocaulon decangulare, p. 2.88. Cornus Herbacta* 
 
 found about Loch-Broom, 364 
 
 XL. DUNDONNEL, 378 
 
 XLI. Danijb edifices in Glen-elg, 392 
 
 XL1I. View at the upper end of Loch Jurn, 39& 
 No. I. View of Lunga, and the Dutchman's, cap. II. and III, diffe- 
 rent views of MacLeod's great table. 
 
 XLIIJ* Dunstaffage cattle ; the chapel and rock oppofite, 409 
 
 XLIV. The ivory image, p. 354. No. I. a military fcythe. II. a Danijb 
 
 fword p. 290. 111. part of a rude iron fvvord, found in 
 
 Ilay. 410 
 
 vu
 
 A 
 
 T O U R 
 
 I N 
 
 SCOTLAND, 
 
 AND 
 
 VOYAGE to the HEBRIDES, 
 
 MDCCLXXIL 
 
 N Monday the 18th of May\ for a fecond time, take my Chester, 
 departure for the North, from Chester ; a city without 
 parallel for the Angular ftructure of the four principal 
 ilreets, which are as if excavated out of the earth, and funk many 
 feet beneath the furface •, the carriages drive far below the level 
 of the kitchens, on a line with ranges of mops •, and over them, i TS rows, 
 on each fide the ftreets, paffengers walk from end to end, fecure 
 from wet or heat, in galleries purloined from the firft floor of each 
 houfe, open and baluflraded in front. The back courts of all thefe 
 houfes are level with the ground, but to go into any of the four 
 ilreets it is neceflfary to defcend a flight of feveral fteps. 
 
 B The
 
 A TOUR 
 
 The ftreets were once confiderably deeper, as is apparent from 
 the mops, whofe floors lie far below the prefent pavement. The 
 leffer ftreets and allies that run into the greater ftreets, vvere- 
 floped to the level of the bottoms of the latter, as is particularly 
 vifible in Bridge-Jlreet. It is difficult to affign a realbn for thefe 
 hollowed ways : I can only fuppofe them to have been the void 
 left after the deftruction of the antient vaults mentioned by an 
 antient hiftorian : In this cyte, fays the Polychronicon *, ben ways 
 under erthe with vowtes and Jione-werke wonder ly wrought thre chambred 
 werkes : I grave with olde mennes names therein. There is alfo Julius 
 Cezars name wonder ly in ft ones grave, and other noble mennes alfo, with 
 the wry tynge about : meaning the altar and monumental inferiptions 
 of the Romans. 
 Cathedral. The cathedral ('till the reformation the church of the rich mo- 
 
 naftery of St. JVerburgh) is an antient ftructure, very ragged on 
 the outfide, from the nature of the friable red ftone -J- with which 
 it is built ; but ftill may boaft of a moft elegant Weftern front ; 
 and the tabernacle work in the choir is very neat : St. Werburgh's 
 fhrine is now the bifhop's throne, decorated with the figures of 
 Mercian monarchs and faints ; to whom the fair patronefs was a 
 bright example, living immaculate with her hufband Ceolredus, 
 copying her aunt the great Ethelreda, who lived for three years, with 
 not lefs purity, with her good man Tonberffus, and for twelve with 
 her fecond hufband, the pious Prince Egfrid. Hiftory relates, that 
 
 * Higden's Polychronicon, or rather that by Roger Ceftrenfis, a Renedicline monk Of 
 St. Wtrburgh'% ; from whom Higden is faid to have ftolen the whole work. This 
 Roger was cotemporary with Trivet, who died A. D. 1328. 
 
 f Fale-Rojal, .19.. 
 
 this
 
 INSCOTLAND. $ 
 
 this religious houfe was originally a nunnery, founded A. D. 66o, 
 by Wulpherus, king of the Mercians, in favor of his daughter's in- 
 difpofuion. The nuns, in procefs of time, gave way to canons fecu- 
 lar ; and they again were difplaced by Hugh Lupus, nephew to the 
 conqueror, 1095, and their room fupplied by Beneditlines. 
 
 The beauty and elegant fimplicity of a very antique gothic chap- Chapter-house, 
 ter-houfe, and its fine veftibule, merits a vifit from every traveller. 
 The date of the foundation is uncertain, but it feems, from the fimi- 
 litude of roof and pilafters in a chapel in the fquare tower in the 
 caftle, to have been the work of cotemporary architects, and thefe 
 architects were probably Norman ; for the mode of fquare towers, 
 with fquared angles, was introduced immediately on the conqueft. 
 
 The cloifters, the great refectory, now the free-fchool, and a gate- 
 way of moil Angular ftructure, are at prefent the fole remains of this 
 monaftery. The ruins near St. John's church are fine reliques of 
 the piety of the times •, and the mafly columns, and round arches 
 within the church, mod curious fpecimens of the clumfy flrength 
 of Saxon architecture. The former are probably the remains of the 
 monaftery of St. Mary, founded by Randal, fecond E. of Chefter, for 
 Beneditline nuns. The church was founded by King Ethelred, in 
 689 : an uncouth infcription on the walls informs us, that ' King 
 ' Ethelred minding more the blifle of heaven, edified a colledge 
 ' church notable and famous in the fuburbs of Chejler pleafant and 
 * beauteous in the honour of God and the Baptift St. John with the 
 1 help of bimop Wulfrice and good Excillion *.' It was rebuilt 
 in 906, by Ethelred, E. of Mercia, after he had expelled the Danes 
 
 * So tranflated from bono auxilio. 
 
 B 2 out
 
 A TOUR 
 
 out of the city. This was alfo the cathedral, until fuppknted in 
 155 1, by the church of the abby of St. Werburgb. 
 
 Castle and The caftle is a decaying pile, rebuilt by one of the Norman earls,. 
 
 ALLS ' on the fite of the more antient fortrefs. The walls of the city (the 
 
 only complete fpecimen of old fortifications) are one mile three 
 quarters and a hundred and one yards in circumference, and, being 
 the principal walk of the inhabitants, are kept in excellent order, 
 The views from the feveral parts are very fine : the mountains of 
 FlintJJoire^ the hills of Broxion, and the infulated rock of Bee/ion, form 
 the ruder part of the fcenery ; a rich flat gives us a fofter view, and 
 the profpect up the river towards Boughton, recalls in fome degree 
 the idea of the Thames and Richmond hill. 
 
 Antiquities. The Hypocauft, near the Feathers inn, is one of the remains of the 
 
 Romans, it being well known that this place was a principal ftation. 
 Among many antiquities found here, none is more lingular than the 
 rude fculpture of the Dea Armigera Minerva, with her bird and altar, . 
 on the face of. a rock in a fmall field near the Welch end of the 
 bridge. 
 Trade.. Chester has been, at different times, a place d'armes, a great' 
 
 thorough-fare between the two kingdoms, and the refidence of a . 
 numerous and polifhed gentry. Trade, till of late years, was but 
 little attended to, but at prefent efforts are making to enter into that 
 of Guinea, the plantations, and the Baltic -, and from the Rbccnix 
 tower is a good Pifgah view of an internal commerce by means of a 
 canal now cutting beneath the walls. 
 
 Since the year 1736, and not before, great quantities of linen-cloth 
 have been imported from Ireland to each of the annual fairs : in that 
 year 449654 yards j and at prefent about a million of yards are 
 
 brought
 
 I'N SCOTLAND. 5 
 
 brought to each fair. Hops are another great article of trade, for 
 above ten thoufand pockets are fold here annually, much of which 
 is forwarded to the neighboring ifland. But the only ftaple trade of 
 the city is in (kins, multitudes of which are imported, dreffed here,- 
 but fent out again to be manufactured. Here is a well-regulated 
 poor-houfe, and an infirmary ; the laft fupported by contributions 
 from the city, its county, and the adjacent counties of North-Wales. 
 The firft has happily the left ufe of this pious foundation ; for, Healthiness. 
 whether from the drynefs of the fituation, the clearnefs of the air, or 
 the purity of the water, the proportion of deaths to the inhabitants 
 has been only as 1 to 31 ; whereas in London 1 in 20, and 3-4ths •, in 
 Leeds 1 in 21, and 3-5ths j and in Northampton and Shrewjbury, 1 in 
 26, annually pay the great tribute of nature *. Might I be per- 
 mitted to moralize, I mould call this the reward of the benevolent 
 and charitable difpofition, that is the characteriftic of this city •, for 
 fuch is the facrifice that is pleafing to the Almighty. 
 
 About two miles from Cbefter, pafs over Hook heath, noted for Hoole heath. 
 having been one of the places of reception for ftrangers eftablimed 
 by Hugh Lupus, in order to people his new dominions. This in par- 
 ticular was the afylum allotted for the fugitives of Wales. 
 
 Ride thro' the fmall town of Tr afford : this, with the lordfhip of 
 Newton, was, as Daniel King obferves, one of the fweet morfels that 
 the abbot of St. Werburgh and his convent kept for their own whole- 
 fome provifion. Get into a tra£t of fandy country, and pafs be- 
 neath Hellejby-Tor, a high and bluff termination of Delamere foreft, Hellesby-Toiu 
 
 * Vide the obfervations on this fubjett of that humane phyfician, my worthy 
 friend, Dr, Haygarth. 
 
 compofed 1
 
 A T G U R 
 
 compofed of the fame friable ftone as that near Chefler, but veined 
 with yellow. Hence a view of the junction of the Weever and the 
 Merfey, and an extenfive tract of marihy meadow, with fome good 
 and much rufhy grafs ; and beyond is the beginning of the wide 
 eftuary that flows by. Leverpool 
 Frodesham. Crofs a little brook, called Llewyn, and reach Frodefljam ; a town 
 
 of one long ftreet, which, with its cattle, was allotted by EdwarAl. 
 to David, brother to Lewelyn, laft Prince of Wales, as a retainer in 
 his double perfidy againft his own blood, and his own country. Not 
 a veftige is left of the caftle, which flood at the Weft end of the 
 town ; was latterly ufed as a houfe by the Savages, and was burnt 
 down in 1652, when one of that name, an Earl Rivers, lay dead in 
 it. 
 
 This, as well as moft other towns and villages in Chejhire, flands 
 on an eminence of fand-ftone, and by that means enjoys a fituation 
 dry, wholeibme and beautiful. 
 
 The church ftands at a vaft height above the town. In the re- 
 gifter are thefe two remarkable inftances of longevity : March the 
 1.3th, 1592, was buried, Thomas Hough, aged 141 ; and the very 
 next day was committed to the earth, Randle Wall, aged 103. I 
 obferved alfo, that in the Winter of 1574, the peftilence reached 
 this fequeftered place, for four are then recorded to have died of 
 it. In early times that avenging angel fpread deftruction thro' all 
 parts of the land ; but her power is now ceafed by the providential 
 cefTation of the natural caufes that gave rife to that moft dreadful of 
 calamities. 
 Archery, Above the church is .Beacon hill, with a beautiful walk cut along 
 
 its fide. At the foot are four butts (archery being ftill practifed 
 
 here)
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 3 
 
 Here) for an exercife in which the warriors of this county were of 
 old eminent. The butts lie at four, eight, twelve, and fixteen 
 roods diftance from each other : the laft are now difufed j probably 
 as the prefent race of archers prefer what is called fhort-fhooting *. 
 
 Crofs the Weever, on a good flone bridge : from a neighboring 
 warehoufe much cheefe is ihipped off, brought down the river in 
 boats from the rich grazing grounds, that extend as far as Nantwich. 
 The river, by means of locks, is navigable for barges as high as 
 Win/low bridge -, but below this admits veffels of fixty tuns. The 
 channel above and below is deep and clayey, and at low water very 
 difagreeable. 
 
 On the North banks are the ruins of Rock-favage, fuffered, Rock-savage. 
 within memory, to fall to decay •, once the feat of a family of the 
 fame name •, and not far remote, on the fame range, is Afion, a good 
 houfe, finely fituated, but rendered too naked through the rage of 
 modern tafte. 
 
 About two miles farther, on the right, is Dutton-Lodge, once the Dutton-Lodge, 
 feat of the Duttons ; a family in poffeffion of a fingular grant, having 
 Magijierium omnium Leccatorum et meretricum totius Ceftrejhire. This- 
 privilege came originally from Randal, 6th Earl of Chefier, to Roger 
 Lacy, conftable of that city, who, when the Earl was cloiely befieged 
 by the Welch in Rudland catte, collected haflily for his relief a band 
 of minftrels, and other idle people, and with them fucceeded in the 
 attempt ; after which his fon John affigned it to the Duttons, one of 
 that name being afliftant in the affair. 
 
 * I think myfelf indebted to Mr. Robert/on, librarian to the Royal-Society, 
 an old archer, for the correction of this paffag^. 
 
 Reach
 
 8 A T O U R 
 
 Halton castlb. Reach Halton cattle, feated on an eminence, and given by Hugh 
 Lupus to Nigellus, one of his officers, and founded by one of the two. 
 Nigel held it by this honorable and fpirited fervice, that whenever 
 the Earl made an expedition into Wales, the Baron of Haldon mould 
 be the foremoft in entering the country, and the laft in coming out *. 
 It became afterwards the property of the houfe of Lancafier, and was 
 a favorite hunting feat of John of Gaunt. The caftle is a ruin, except 
 a part kept as a prifon. It belongs to the dutchy of Lancafier, and 
 has ilill a court of record, and other privileges. 
 
 From the caftle is the molt beautiful view in CheJJjire ; a rich pro- 
 fpeft of the meanders of the Merfey, thro' a fertile bottom ; a 
 pretty wooded peninfula jutting into it oppofite to Runcorn ; the 
 great county of Lancajhire, filled with hedge-row trees ; and beyond 
 foar the hills of Torkjhire and Lancafdre ; and on the other fide ap- 
 pears Che/hire, and the dill loftier Cambrian mountains ; but clofe 
 beneath, near the church, is ftill a more pleafing view ; that of a 
 row of neat alms-houfes, for the reception of the fuperannuated 
 fervants of the houfe of Norton, founded by the late Pufey Brook 
 Eiiqj my friend, and the friend of mankind. 
 Norton. Defcend the hill, and pafs by Norton, a good modern houfe, on the 
 
 fite of a priory of canons regular of St. Augufiine, founded by Wil- 
 liam, fon of Nigellus, A. D. 1 135, who did not live to complete his 
 defign ; for Eujlace de Burgaville granted to Hugh de Catherik pafture 
 for a hundred flieep, in cafe he finifhed the church in all refpeds 
 conformable to the intent of the founder. It was granted at the 
 difiblution to Richard Brook, Efquire. 
 
 • Blunt\ Antient Tenures. 
 
 Continue
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 Continue my way along a flat dull country, reach the banks of 
 the Merfey, ride over a long caufeway, having before me a perfect 
 wood of lofty poplar, that fpeaks the foil j and Warrington as if in 
 the midft of it. Enter 
 
 LANCASHIRE, 
 
 after crofling a handfome Hone bridge 'of four arches, which 
 leads into the town, and was built by the firft Earl of 
 Derby, to accommodate Henry VII, then on his road on a vifit 
 to his lordmip, probably to footh the Earl after the ungrateful 
 execution of his brother, Sir William- Stanly. It was at firft a 
 toll-bridge, but his lordfhip generoufly releafed the country from 
 that tax, at a lofs of as many marks as was equivalent to the 
 portion of one of his daughters. > 
 
 The priory of the hermit friers of Auguftine, founded before Warrington. 
 1379, flood near the bridge, but not a relique exifts. The en- 
 trance into the town is unpromiiing, the ftreets long, narrow, ill 
 built, and crowded with carts and paffengers ; but farther on are 
 airy, and of a good width, but afford a ftriking mixture of mean 
 buildings and handfome houfes, as is the cafe with moft trading 
 towns that experience a fudden rife ; not that this place wants an- 
 tiquity, for Leland fpeaks of its having a better market than 
 Manchefter upwards of 200 years ago. At that time the princi- 
 pal part of the town was near the church, remote from the 
 bridge, and was acceffible only by a ford, but the conveniency 
 of a fafer tranfit foon drew the buildings to that end. 
 
 C The
 
 10 
 
 OUR 
 
 Chwrch. The church has of late undergone much alteration, but two> 
 
 of the antient fide chapels ftill remain : one belonging to the 
 Maffies contains nothing but a fmall mural monument, with a 
 very amiable character of Francis Majfey, Efq-, Lord of the ma- 
 nours of Rixton and Glajbrook, lad of the antient family, which 
 was extinct with him in 1748 ; but in an oppofite chapel is a 
 magnificent tomb of Sir Thomas Boteler and his lady, in alabafler : 
 their effigies lie at top, hand in hand, he in armour, fhe in a re- 
 markable mitre- maped cap •, round the fides are various figures, 
 fuch as St. Chriftopher, St. George, and other fuperftitious fculp- 
 tures. The Botelers were of great antiquity in this place; the 
 firft took his name from being Butler to Ranulf de Gernons, or 
 Me/chines, Earl of Chejler. His pofterity acquired great pof- 
 fefiions in this county*, and one of them obtained the charters 
 for markets and fairs at Warrington, from his Prince Edward I. 
 Tradition fays, that Sir Thomas, then refident at Beauly houfe, 
 near this town, was, with his lady, murdered in the night by 
 afifafiins, who croiTed the moat in leathern boats to perpetrate their 
 villainy. 
 
 Beneath an arch in the wall near this tomb is another, contain- 
 ing a figure in a long robe, muffled up to the chin ; the head wrap- 
 ped in a fort of cap, and bound with a neat fillet. 
 
 Befides this church is a neat chapel of eafe, lately rebuilt, and 
 many places of worfhip for Prefbyterians, Anabaptifts, Quakers, 
 Methodifls and Roman Catholics : for in manufacturing places it 
 often falls out that the common people happily have a difpofition 
 
 * Dugdalis Baronage I. 653. 
 
 to
 
 IN SCOTLAND. iV 
 
 to feek the Lord, but as unhappily difagree in the means of ren- 
 dering themfelves acceptable to him. 
 
 Here is a free-fchool, very confiderably endowed, and made 
 very refpectable by the merits of the preient mafter. An academy 
 has of late years been eflablifhed in this town, with a view of 
 giving an education to youth on the plan of an univerfity. 
 
 The manufactures of this place are very confiderable ; formerly Manufactusbs. 
 a great quantity of checks and coarfe linnens were made here, but 
 of late years thefe have given way to that of Polldavies, or fail- 
 cloth, now carried on with fuch fpirit (in the town and country) 
 as to fupply near one half of the navy of Great-Britain. The late 
 war gave a great rife to this branch, and a fudden improvement to 
 the town. 
 
 The making of pins is another confiderable article of commerce ; 
 locks, hinges, call-iron, and other branches of hardware, are fabri- 
 cated here to a great amount : very large works for the refining of 
 copper, are carried on near the town j and the glafs and fugar 
 houfes employ many hands. By means of all thefe advantages the 
 town has been doubled within thefe twenty years -, and is fuppofed 
 to contain at prefent between eight and nine thoufand inhabi- 
 tants. 
 
 The manufactures of this place are moil readily conveyed 
 down to Liverpool, by means of the Merfey. The fpring-tides 
 rife at the bridge to the height of nine feet, and veifels of feventy 
 or eighty tuns can lie at Bank-quay, the port of the town j where 
 warehoufes, cranes, and other conveniences for fhipping of goods 
 are erected. I muft not omit that thirty or forty thoufand buihels 
 of potatoes are annually exported out of the rich land of the en- Potatoes 
 
 C 2 virons
 
 1.2 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 virons of Warrington, into the Mediterranean, at the medium price 
 of 14c!. per bufhel. This is the root which honeft Gerard, about 
 two hundred and forty years ago, fpeaks of as a food, as alfo a meat 
 for pleafure being either rofted in the embers or boiled and eaten with oile 
 vinegar and pepper or dreffed feme other way by the hand of ajkilful 
 cooke *. 
 Fish. The falmon fiihery is very confiderable, but the opportunity, 
 
 of fending them to London, and other places, at the beginning 
 of the fealbn, keeps up the price to about 8d per pound, which 
 gradually finks to 3d or 2d halfpenny, to the great aid of the 
 poor manufacturers. Smelts, or as they are called in all the 
 North, fparlings, migrate in the Spring up this river in amazing 
 flioals, and of a fize fuperior to thofe of other parts, fome hav- 
 ing been taken that weighed half a pound, and meafured thirteen . 
 inches. 
 Graining. In this river is found a fmall fifh called the Graining, in fome 
 
 refpects relembling the dace, yet is a diftind and perhaps new 
 fpecies •, the ufual length is feven inches and a half ; it is rather 
 more (lender than the dace, the body is almoft (trait, that of the 
 other incurvated •, the color of the fcales in this is filvery, with 
 a bluifh caft ; thofe of the dace have a yellowifh or greenifh 
 tino-e : the eyes, the ventral and the anal fins in the Graining are 
 of a pale color -f. 
 Orford-hall. Make a vifit to John Blackburne, Efq; at his feat of Orford, a 
 
 mile from Warrington ; dine and lie there. This gentleman from 
 
 • Herbal, 928. 
 
 f Ray's in P. D. 8. P. P. 15.V. 9. A. 10. C. 32. 
 
 his
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 his earlieft life, like another Evelyn, has made his garden the em- 
 ploy and amufement of his leiiure hours ; and been molt ftrccefsful 
 in every part he has attempted: in fad: he has an univerfal know- 
 ledge in the culture of plants. He was the fecond in thefe king- 
 doms that cultivated the Pine apple: has the belt fruit and the belt 
 kitchen garden: his collection of hardy exotics is exceedin°-lv 
 numerous ; and his collection of hot-houfe plants is at left equal to 
 that at Kew. He neglects no branch of botany, has the aquatic 
 plants in their proper elements •, the rock plants on artificial rocks ; 
 and you may be here betrayed into a bog by attempting to gather 
 thofe of the morafs. 
 
 Mrs. Blackburne his daughter extends her refearches {till farther, 
 and adds to her empire another kingdom : not content with the- 
 botanic, fhe caufes North America to be explored for its animals, 
 and has formed a Mufeum from the other fide of the Atlantic, as 
 pleafing as it is instructive. 
 
 In this houfe is a large family picture of the AJht on' 's of Chad-, 
 derton, confifting of a gentleman, his lady, eleven children livino- 
 at that time, and three infants who died in their birth : it was 
 painted in the reign of James I. by Tobias Ratcliff; but has fo little 
 merit, that I mould not have mentioned it, but to add one more 
 to Mr. Walpole\ lift of painters. 
 
 May 19, Pafs through IVinwick, a fmall village remarkable for Winwick. 
 being the richeft rectory in England: the living is worth 2300 1. 
 per annum ; the Rector is Lord of the Manor, and has a glebe 
 of 1300I. annual rent: it is fingular that this county, the feventh 
 in fize in England, has only fixty-one parifhes, whereas Norfolk, . 
 the. next in dimenfions has no fewer than fix hundred and fixty. 
 
 In. 
 
 '3
 
 H 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 In the wall of an old porch before the Rector of Wimvick's 
 houfe, is fafely lodged a bible, placed there by a zealous incum- 
 bent, who lived in the days of Oliver Cromwel, in order that at left 
 one authentic book might be found, mould the fanatics corrupt the 
 text, and deftroy all the orthodox copies. 
 
 On the outfide of the Church is this infcription, cut in old 
 letters : . 
 
 Hie locus, Of<waMe, quondam tibi placuit valde; 
 Nortbanumbrorum fueras Rex, nuncque polorum 
 Regna tenes, Prato partus MarceUe * vocato. 
 Anno milleno quingentenoque triceno, 
 Sclator poft Chrijlum murum renovaverat iftum : 
 Henricus Jobn/lon curatus erat fimul hie tunc. 
 
 Ofwald was king of Northumberland ; the mod pious prince of his 
 time •, and the reftorer of the chriftian religion in his dominions : 
 at length, A. D. 640, receiving a defeat near Ofwejlry, by Penda, 
 pagan king of Mercia, was there flain, his body cut in pieces, 
 and ftuck on poles by way of trophies. 
 
 At Redbank between this place and Newton the Scots in Augufi 
 1648, after their retreat from Prejton, made a refolute Hand for 
 many hours againft the victorious Cromwel, who, with great lofs on 
 both fides, beat them from their ground •, and the next day made 
 himfelf mafter of all their remaining infantry, which, with their 
 commander Lieutenant-general Bayly, furrendered on the bare con- 
 dition of quarter +. 
 
 • Mufer-field near Ofiuejlry. 
 
 f Whitslock, 332. Clarendon, V. 162. 
 
 Pafs
 
 L N SCOTLAND. 
 
 Pafs through Newton, a fmall burough town : the country flat 
 and fertile. On approaching Wiggan, obferve feveral fields quite 
 white with thread, bleaching for the manufacture of flrong checks 
 and coarfe linen, carried on in that town and neighborhood. 
 
 Wiggan is a pretty large town and a burough. It has long been Wiggan,. 
 noted for manufactures in brafs and pewter, which now give way 
 to that of checks: an ingenious fellow here turns canal coal into 
 vafes, obelifks, and muff- boxes, and forms excellent blackmoors 
 heads out of the fame material. 
 
 The beft crofs-bows are alio made in this town by a perfon, 
 who fucceeded his father in the bufinefs -, the laft coming there 
 from Rippon about a century ago. 
 
 In the church is an infcription in memory of Sir Roger Brad* 
 Jhaigh of Haigh, an eminent loyaliil in the time of the civil wars : 
 and a tomb much defaced of a Sir William Bradjhaigh, and his 
 lady Mabel, who lived in the reigns of Edward the II. and III. 
 a remarkable hiftory attends this pair : in the time of the firft mo- 
 narch, he fet out for the holy land in quell of adventures, and 
 left his fair fpoufe at home to pray for his fuccefs : but after fome 
 years abfence, the lady thinking he made rather too long a ftay, 
 gave her hand to Sir Ofmund Nevil, a Welch knight. At length 
 Sir William returns in the garb of a pilgrim ; makes himfelf known 
 to his Mabel, is acknowleged by her, and lhe returns to her 
 allegiance •, Sir William purfues the innocent invader of his bed, 
 overtakes him at Newton park, where my unfortunate countryman 
 is flain. The poor lady being confidered as an acceffary to his 
 death, is condemned to a weekly penance of walking barefoot 
 
 from 
 
 *5
 
 1 6 
 
 OUR 
 
 from the chapel in Haigh-Hall, three miles diftant, to expiate her 
 crime, to a crofs near Wiggan, at this day called Mabel's crofs. 
 
 Not far from the town is the little river Douglas, immortalized 
 by the victories of our Arthur * over the Saxons on its banks. 
 This dream in 1727 was widened, deepened and made navigable 
 by locks, almoft to the mouth of the Ribble : and was among the 
 fiift of thofe projects which have fince been puriued with fo much 
 utility to the inland parts of the kingdom. This canal conveys 
 coal to fupply the north of the county, and even part of Wejlmore- 
 land, and in return brings from thence limeftone. 
 Haigh-hall. On an eminence about a mile from IViggan, is Haigh, the feat 
 
 of the BradJJjaigbs, an antient houfe, built at different times, the 
 chapel fuppofed to be as old as the time of Edward 11. in the front 
 are the Stanly arms, and beneath them thofe of the family ; which 
 in all civil commotions had united with the former, even as early 
 as the battle of Bofworth field. 
 
 In this houfe are fome excellent pictures •, our Saviour with 
 his difciples at Emaus, by Titian, with the landlord and waiter; 
 a line attention and refpecl is exprefTed in the countenances of the 
 difciples. 
 
 A very fine head of Sir Lionel Tolmach, by Fr. Zucchero, on 
 wood ; fliort grey hair, a forked beard, rofy complexion ; a beau- 
 tiful viridis fencolus . 
 
 Eliz lady Dacres, daughter of Paul vifcount Bayr.ing, relict of 
 Francis lord Dacres, created countefs of Sheppy for life, by Ch. II. 
 in 16S0, a head on wood: a blooming countenance. 
 
 * Henry of Huntingdon, 313. 
 
 A head
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 17 
 
 A head by Riley, of Sir John Guife, great grandfather to the pre- 
 fent baronet : and another of lady Guife, by Kneller. 
 
 Charles I. in his robes. 
 
 George Villiers duke of Buckingham, in the robes of the garter, 
 affaflinated by the gloomy Felton. 
 
 A large equeitrian picture of Ch. I. a copy after Vandyck. 
 
 His daughter, Mary princefs of Orange, mother to kino 
 William. 
 
 Henry Murray, efquire, gentleman of the bedchamber to Ch. II. 
 his daughter was married to Sir Roger Bradfhaigh, the fecond 
 baronet. 
 
 This neighborhood abounds with that fine fpecies of coal Canal coal* 
 called canal, perhaps candle coal, from its ferving as cheap light 
 for the poor to fpin by, during the long winter evenings : it is 
 found in beds of about three feet in thicknefs ; the veins dip one 
 yard in twenty ; are found at great depths, with a black bafs 
 above and below -, and are fubject to the fame damps fiery and 
 fuffocating as the common coal. It makes the fweeteft of fires, 
 and the moft chearful : is very inflammable ; and fo -clean, that 
 at Haigh-Hall a fummer-houfe is built with it, which .may be en- 
 tered without dread of foiling the lio-htefl cloaths. 
 
 Leaving JViggan, obferve on the road-fide near the N. end of 
 the town, a monument, erected by Alexander Rigby, Efq-, in me- 
 mory of his gallant commander Sir Thomas Tildefly, who was killed 
 on this fpot in the engagement with Lambert, in 1650: a faithful 
 domeftic, fupporting his dying mafter, was mot in that fituation 
 by a rebel trooper, who was inftantly piftoled by his generous officer, 
 who -abhorred the barbarity even to an enemy. 
 
 D Reach
 
 IS A T O U R 
 
 Stan&ish. Reach SlandiJIo, a village with a very handfome church and 
 
 fpire fteeple : the pillars within fhew an attempt of the Tufcan 
 order; it was rebuilt in 1584, and chiefly by the afliftance of 
 Richard Moodie, Rector of the place, who maintained the work- 
 men with meat, at his own coft, during the time. He was the 
 fir ft proteftant pallor, conformed and procured the living by the 
 ceflion of the tythes of Standijh, probably thinking it better to 
 lofe part than all. He lies in effigy on his tomb,. drefTed' in his 
 francifcan habit, with an infcription declarative of his munificence 
 towards the church. In front of the tomb are two fmall pillars 
 with ionic capitals, the dawning of the introduction of Grecian archi- 
 tecture. 
 
 Here is a handfome tomb of Sir Edward Wrightington, Knight, 
 King's council : he died 165S, and lies in alabafter recumbent in 
 his gown. A curious memorial of Edward Chifnal, Efq; of 
 Cbifnal, who was, during the civil wars, Colonel of a regiment 
 of horfe, and another of foot ; and left there fhould be any doubt, 
 the commifllons are given in full length upon wood. This gentle- 
 man had the honor of defending Latham houfe under the command, 
 of the Heroine the Countefs of Derby. 
 
 At Mrs. Townlefs, at Standi JIj -Hall ^ are fome few reliques of 
 the Arundel collection, particularly eight pieces of glafs, with the 
 labors of Hercules moft exquifitely cut on them. A large filver 
 fquare, perhaps the pannel of an altar, with a moft beautiful 
 relief of the refurrection on it, by P. V. 1605. Two trinkets, 
 one a lion,, the other a dragon, whofe bodies are formed of two 
 vaft irregular pearls. 
 
 Make
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 
 
 Make an excurfion four miles on the Weft, to Holland, a. vil- Holland. 
 lage where formerly had been a priory of Benediclines, founded by 
 Robert de Holland, in 13 19, out of the collegiate chapel, before 
 ferved by canons regular. Nothing remains at prefent but the 
 church, and a few walls. The pofterity of the founder rofe to 
 the greatefl honors during feveral of the following turbulent 
 reigns ; but thofe honors were attended with the greatefl calami- 
 ties. Robert himfelf, firfb Secretary to Thomas of Woodftock, Earl 
 • of Lancajler, after betraying his mafter, loft his head, by the 
 rage of the people, in the beginning of the reign of Edw. III. 
 His pofterity, many at left of them, were equally unfortunate: 
 Thomas de Holland, Duke of Surry, and Earl of Kent, fell in the 
 fame manner at Cirencefter, by the hands of the townfmen, after 
 a ram infurre&ion, in order to reftore his mafter, Richard II. 
 His half brother, John, Duke of Exeter, and Earl of Hunting- 
 don, underwent the fame fate, from the hands of the populace at 
 Plejfy, in EJfex, for being engaged in the fame defign. And his 
 grandfon Henry, Duke of Exeter, experienced a fortune as va- 
 rious as it was calamitous. He was the greateft fubject in power 
 under Henry VI. and was brother in law to Edw. IV. yet, as 
 Comines 'relates, during the firft depreftion of his unhappy mafter, 
 he was feen a fugitive in Flanders, running barefoot after the 
 Duke of Burgundy's coach, to beg an alms : on ? #he laft attempt 
 to replace Henry on the throne, he again appeared in arms at the 
 battle of Bamet, fought manfully, and was left for dead in the 
 field ; a faithful domeftic gave him affiftance, and conveyed him" 
 into fancluary •, he efcaped, and was never heard of 'till his corps 
 was found, by fome unknown accident, floating in the fea be- 
 
 D 2 tween 
 
 *9
 
 20 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 tween Dover and Calais * ; and thus clofed the eventful hiftory of 
 this ill-fated line- 
 Return thro* this deep tract into the road at Standijh : the 
 country from hence to Prefton very good ; on the laft a long val- 
 ley runs parallel. At a place called Pincock bridge crofs the Tar- 
 row, a pretty ftream, watering a narrow romantic glen, wooded 
 on both fides. 
 
 Ride through Walton, a very populous village, near the 
 Ribbk, a fine river, extending thro' a range of very rich mea- 
 dows, as far as the picturefque vale of Cuerden. Crofs the river 
 on a bridge of five arches, afcend a hill, through lanes once deep, 
 narrow, and of difficult approach -, where, in 17 15, the rebels 
 made fome refiitance to the King's forces in the ill-concerted affair 
 of that year. 
 Preston. On the top lies Prefton, a neat and handfome town, quiet, and 
 
 entirely free from the noife of manufactures ; and is fupported by 
 paffengers, or the money fpent by the numerous gentry that inhabit 
 it. It derives its name (according to Camden) from the Priefts or 
 Religious that were in old times the principal inhabitants. Here was a 
 convent of grey friars or Francifcans founded by Edmund Earl of 
 Lancafter, ion of Henry III. Robert de Holland abovementioned, 
 was a confiderable benefactor to the place, and was buried here. 
 A gentleman of the name of Prefton gave the ground f . Might 
 not the town take its name from him ? Here was alfo an antient 
 hofpital dedicated to Mary Magdalene, mentioned in 1291 in the 
 Lincoln taxation j;. 
 
 * Stew, 426; f Stevens's McnaJ}. 1. 154. % Tanner, 234. 
 
 This
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 This place was taken by ftorm in 1 643 by the parlement forces 
 under Sir John Seaton, after a moft gallant defence : It was at that 
 time fortified with brick walls *. 
 
 North of this town began the action between that gallant officer 
 Sir Marmaduke Langdale, and the parlement forces under Cromwel. 
 The former commanded the Englijb army that was to act in con- 
 junction with the Duke of Hamilton in his unfortunate invafion in 
 July 1648. Langdale gave the infatuated Scot, notice of the ap- 
 proach of Cromwel, and in vain advifed the aflemblingof the whole 
 force, his council was loft. He alone made a ftand in the fields 
 near Prejlon for fix hours, unafiifted by the Duke, who pufhed the 
 march of his troops over the bridge, leaving Sir Marmaduke to be 
 overpowered with numbers, 
 
 The walks on the banks above the Ribhle command a moft 
 beautiful view of meadows, bounded by delicious rifings ; the 
 river meandring between 'till the profpect clofes with it's eftuary. 
 Continue here the whole night, and lie at the Black-Bull. 
 
 The spectator has long fince pointed out the knowledge that 
 may be collected from figns : it is impoffible not to remark the 
 propriety of the reigning ones of this county : the triple-legs, and 
 the eagle-and-child, denote the great porTefiions of the Stanlies in 
 thefe parts ; the bull, the juft pre-eminence of it's cattle over other 
 counties ; and the royal-oak, it's diftinguifhed loyalty to it's fove- 
 reign. I am amazed they do not add the Graces, for no where 
 can be feen a more numerous race of beauties among that order, 
 who want every advantage to fet off their native charms. 
 
 • Parlement Chronicle, 268. 
 
 Go 
 
 21
 
 22 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 May 20. Go over a flat country, with rufhy fields on each fide j crofs 
 
 the Broke and the Calder ; fee on the one fide Blazedale fells, and on 
 the other Petting mofs, which fome years ago made an eruption 
 fimilar to that of Solway. Crofs the JVier, near GarJIang^ on a bridge 
 of two arches •, about twelve miles lower it fwells into a fine har- 
 bor, whence the provincial proverb, as fafe as Wier. Veflfels put 
 into it for the fail- cloth made at Kirkham. 
 
 Garstang. Breakfaft at GarJIang; a irnall town, remarkable for the fine 
 
 cattle produced in it's neighborhood : a gentleman has refufed 
 30 guineas for a three-year-old cow j has fold a calf of a month's 
 age for 10 guineas, and bulls for 100 ; and has killed an ox 
 weighing 21 Tcore per quarter, exclufive of hide, entrails, &c e 
 Bulls alfo have been let out at the rate of 30 guineas the fea- 
 fon •, fo that well might honeft Barnaby * celebrate the cattle of 
 this place, notwithstanding the misfortune he met with in one of 
 it's great fairs. 
 
 'Veni GarJIang, ubi nata 
 Sunt armenta fronte lata; 
 Veni GarJIang, ubi male 
 Intrans forum beftiale, 
 Forte vacillando vico 
 Hue et illuc cum amico, 
 In Juvencaj dorium rui, 
 Cujus cornu laefus fui. 
 
 Abundance of potatoes are raifed about the place, and fent 
 to London, Ireland and Scotland. 
 
 * Better known by the name of drunken Barnaby, who lived the beginning of 
 t\t laft century, and publifhed his four itineraries in Latin rhyme. 
 
 In
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 Sir Edward IValpok is Lord of this manor, his father having 
 obtained a grant of it from the crown. 
 
 Near the town, on a knowl, is a fingle tower, the poor remains 
 of Grenebaugh caftle: it was built by the firft Stanley, Earl of Derby, 
 to fecure himfelf in his new poffeiTions, the forfeited eflates of the 
 Torkijls, who did not bear, without refentment, this usurpation on 
 their property. Among the attainted lands, which were vefted in 
 his lordlhip, are reckoned thofe of Pilkington, Brought en, and 
 JVotton *. 
 
 Soon after leaving Gar Jiang the country grows more barren, 
 uneven, or (lightly hilly. From a common called the Grave have 
 a fine view of 
 
 LANCASTER, built of ftone, and lying on the fide of a hill : Lancaster, 
 the caftle built by Edward III. + forms one great object, the church 
 another; and far beyond is an arm of the fea,- and the lofty 
 mountains of Furnefs and Cumberland. The town is not regular, 
 but is well built, and contains numbers of very handfome houfes. 
 Every ftranger muft admire the front of Mr. Noble's, faced with 
 ftone, naturally figured with views, rivers and mountains, in the 
 fame nature with the pietra imbofcata and ruinata of the Italians, 
 The inhabitants are alfo fortunate in having fome very ingenious 
 cabinet-makers fettled here; who fabricate mod excellent and 
 neat goods at remarkably cheap rates,, which they export to London 
 and the plantations. Mr. Gillow's warehoufe of thefe manufac- 
 tures merits a vifit. 
 
 * LelancCs Itin. vi. 35. 
 
 f Vetufta Monumenta, &c. publilhed by the Society of Antiquarians, No. 41. 
 
 It 
 
 23
 
 24 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 It is a town of much commerce: has fine quays on the river 
 Lune, which brings up fhips of 250 tons burden clofe to the place. - 
 Forty or fifty fhips trade from hence directly, to Guinea and the 
 Weft-Indies: others to Norway. Befides the cabinet goods, fame 
 fail cloth is manufactured here •, and great numbers of candles are 
 exported to the Weft-Indies. Much wheat and barley is imported. 
 
 The cuftom-honfe is a fmall but elegant building, with a portico 
 fnpported by four ionic pillars, with a beautiful plain pediment : 
 each pillar is fifteen feet and a half high, and confifts of a fingle 
 (lone. There is a double flight of fteps, a ruftic furbafe and coins j 
 a work that does much credit to Mr. GiUow, the architect. 
 Castle. The caftle is very intire ; has a moft magnificent front, confift- 
 
 ino- of two angular towers, and a gateway between ; and within is 
 a great fquare tower : the courts of juflice are held here •, and 
 here are kept the prifoners of the county, in a fafe yet airy con- 
 finement. 
 Church. *j;he church is feated on an eminence near the caftle, and com- 
 
 mands an extenfive, but not a pleafing view. Within is a mural 
 monument in memory of Sir Samuel Eyres, one of the judges of the 
 king's bench in the time of King William', and a very pompous in- 
 fcription on the grave-flone of T'ho. Covell, fix times mayor of the 
 town, 48 years keeper of the caftle, 46 years one of the coroners of 
 the county, captain of the freehold land of the hundred of Lonfdale 
 on this fide the fands,. &c. &c. died Aug. 1, 1639. 
 
 Ceafe, ceafe to mourn, all tears are vain and void, 
 He's fled, not dead, diflblved, not deftroycd : 
 In Heav'n his foul doth reft, his body here 
 bleeps in this duft, and his fame every where 
 
 Triumphs •
 
 INSCOTLAND. 25 
 
 Triumphs : the town, the country, farther forth, 
 The land throughout proclaim his noble worth. 
 
 Speak of a man fo courteous, 
 
 So free and every way magnanimous ; 
 
 That ftory told at large here do you fee 
 
 Epitomized in brief, Cotell was he. 
 
 This is given as a fpecimen of an epitaph fo very extravagant, 
 that the living muft laugh to read; and the deceafed, was he capable, 
 muft blufli to hear. 
 
 On the north fide of the church-yard are the remains of an old 
 wall, called the wery wall. Camden conjectures it to have taken its 
 name from Caerwerid, or the green fortrefs, the Britijh name of 
 Lancajler : and that it was part of a Roman wall. For my part, 
 with LelawL, I fufpect it to have been part of the enclofure of the 
 Priory, a cell of Beneditline monks of St. Martin, at Sees in France, 
 fupprefTcd by Hen. V. and given to Sion abby. 
 
 The fhambles of this town mull not be omitted : they are built Shambles. 
 in form of a ftreet, at the public expence ; every butcher has his 
 fhop ; and his name painted over the door. 
 
 Crofs the Lune, on a handfome bridge of four arches. Turn to 
 the left, and after four miles riding, reach Hefs bank, and at low 
 water crofs the arm of the fea, the Moricambe of Ptolemy, that divides 
 this part of the county from the hundred of Furnefs, a detached trad Cartmel Sands, 
 peninfulated by the fea, lake, or river, a melancholy ride of eleven 
 miles •, the profpect on all fides quite favage, high barren hills in- 
 dented by the fea, or dreary wet fands, rendered more horrible by 
 the approach of night, and a tempefluous evening, obfcured by the 
 driving of black clouds. Beneath the fhade difcerned Arnfide tower, 
 
 E the
 
 2* 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 the property of the Stanlies for fome centuries. Before us was an 
 extenfive, but fhallow ford, formed by the Kent and other rivers,, 
 now parted with trouble by the beating of the waves. 
 
 At the entrance into this water am met by a guide, called here 
 the Carter, who is maintained by the public, and obliged in all 
 weathers to attend here from fun rife to fun fet, to conduct pafTen- 
 gers over. 
 Cartmel. Three miles from the more is Cartmel, a fmall town with moft 
 
 irregular ftreets, lying in a vale furrounded by high hills. The 
 gateway of the monaftery of regular canons of St. Aujlin, founded in 
 1 1 88, by William Marefchal, Earl of Pembroke, is ftill Handing. 
 But this had long been holy ground, having about the year 67 7, 
 been given to St. Cuthbert, by Eg/rid, King of Northumberland, with 
 all its inhabitants, at that time, entirely Britijh, 
 
 The church is large, and in form of a crofs ; the length is 157 
 feet : the tranfept 1 10 : the height 5J. The fteeple is molt Angu- 
 lar, the tower being a fquare within a fquare ; the upper part being 
 fet diagonally within the lower. The infideof the church is hand- 
 fome and fpacious : the centre fupported by four large and fine 
 cluttered pillars : the Weft part more modern than the reft, and the 
 pillars octagonal. The choir beautiful, furrounded with flails j 
 whofe tops and pillars are finely carved with foliage ; and with the 
 inftruments of the pafTion above. 
 
 On one fide is the tomb ftone of William de Walton, with a crofs 
 on it. He was either firft or fecond prior of this place. The 
 infcription is only Hie Jacet Frater Wilelmus de Walton Prior de 
 Cartmel. 
 
 On the other is a magnificent tomb of a Harrington and his lady, 
 
 both
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 both He recumbent beneath a fine carved and open work arch, 
 decorated with variety of fuperftitious figures ; and on the furbafe 
 are grotefque forms of chaunting monks. He lies with his leo-s 
 acrofs, a fign that he had obtained that privilege by the merits of a 
 pilgrimage to the Holylatid, or a Crufade. He is faid to have been one 
 of the Harringtons of Wrafholm tower, his lady a Huddlejion of 
 Milium Caftle. It is probably the effigies of Sir John de Harrington, 
 who in 1305, was fummoned by Edw. I. with numbers of other 
 gallant gentlemen, to meet him at Carlijle, and attend him on his 
 expedition into Scotland; and was then knighted along with Prince 
 Edward, with bathing, and other facred ceremonies *. 
 
 The monument erected by Cbrijlopher Rawlinfon, of Carkhall, in 
 Cartmel, deferves mention, being in memory of his grandfather, 
 father, and mother. The laft a Monk, defcended from a Tho. Monk 
 of Devon/hire, by Frances Plantagenet, daughter and coheir of Ar- 
 thur Vifcount Lijle, fon of Edw. IV. and this Chrijlopher dying 
 without iffue was the laft male by the mother's fide of that great 
 line. 
 
 In a fide chapel is the burial place of the Lowthers -, among other 
 monuments is a neat but fmall one of the late Sir William. 
 
 Pafs through fome fields, a ftrange mixture of pafture, rock and May 21. 
 
 fmall groves. Defcend a hill to Holker, once the feat of the family Holker. 
 
 of the Pre/Ions, fince the property of the Lowthers, and lately that of 
 Lord George Cavendijh : a large irregular houfe, feated in a pretty 
 park, well wooded; and on the fide of the houfe is a range of 
 low rocky hills, directing the eye to an immenfe chain of lofty 
 mountains. 
 
 • DugdaUs Baronage, II. 99, 
 
 E 2 At 
 
 27
 
 28 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 At Hotter are feveral good pictures : among the portraits, the 
 beautiful, abandoned, vindictive, violent Dutchefs of Cleveland, 
 miitrefs to Ch. II. by Lely. 
 
 A Mrs. Low t her, by the fame. 
 
 Admiral Penn, dreffcd in black, with a cravat and fafh, long 
 and of a good honeit countenance. He rofe very early in life 
 to the higheft naval commands -, was a captain at twenty one, rear 
 admiral of Ireland at twenty-three, general in the firft Dutch war 
 at thirty-two-, difgraced and imprifoned by Cromwel, for his unfuc- 
 cefsful attempt on St. Domingo, though he added, in that very expe- 
 dition, Jamaica to the kingdom of Great Britain : on the reftoration, 
 commanded under the Duke of York in the fame fhip, at the great 
 fea ficrht of 1665, when the laurels of the firft day were blafted 
 by the myftic inactivity of the fecond •, for where princes are 
 concerned, the truth of mifcarriages feldom appears. He foon 
 after retired from the fervice, and died at the early age of forty- 
 nine. 
 
 The late Sir James Lowther ; a character too well known to be 
 dwelt on. 
 
 The head of Thomas Wriothejly, Earl of Southampton, the friend of 
 Clarendon, and virtuous treafurer of the firft years after the reftoration. 
 
 His lady, leaning on a globe. 
 
 A very fine head of a Prefion ? in black, a ruff, fhort grey hair,-, 
 round beard. 
 
 A head called that of an Earl Douglas, with this infcription : 
 Novit paucos fecura qities, at.fuce. xxii. A. M. D. xi. On the head a 
 black bonnet, countenance good, beard brown, drefs black. 
 
 A fine head of Vandyck, when young, leaning : by himfelf. 
 
 An.
 
 I N S C O T L A N D. 29 
 
 An old man reading, and a boy, on wood, marked j. w. Stap. 
 
 Two boys at dice, and a woman looking on : a fine piece by 
 Mori I !i 0. 
 
 St. Francis d'Ajfize^ kneeling, very fine. And variety of other 
 good paintings. 
 
 Crofs another tracl: of fands, three miles in breadth, and am con- 
 ducted thro' the ford by another Carter. This officer was originally 
 maintained by the priory of Com/bed; but at the ctiffolution'the 
 King charged himfelf and his fuccefibrs with the payment : fince 
 that time it is held by patent of the dutchy of Lancafter^ and the 
 faiary is paid by the receiver-general. Reach 
 
 Uherfton, a town of about three thoufand fouls, feated near the Ulverstok, 
 ■water fide, and is approachable at high water by veffels of a hundred 
 and fifty tuns \ has a good trade in iron ore, pig and bar iron, bark,, 
 lime-llone, oats and barley, and much beans, which laft are fent 
 to Leverpool, for the food of the poor enflaved negroes in the Guinea 
 trade. Numbers of cattle are alfo fold out of the neighborhood, but 
 the commerce in general declines •, at prefent there are not above 
 fixty veffels belonging to the place ; formerly about a hundred and 
 fifty moftly let out to freight j but both mafter and failors go now- 
 to Leverpool for employ. 
 
 Quantities of potatoes are raifed here ; and fuch is the increafe 
 that 450 bufhels have been got from a fingle acre of ground. Some 
 wheat is raifed in low Fumefs, near the fea, and in the ifle of Walney : 
 but the inhabitants of thefe parts have but recently applied them- 
 felves to hufbandry. Among the manures fea-fand and live muf- 
 cles are frequently ufed ; but till within thefe twenty years even the 
 ufe of dung was fcarcely known to them> 
 
 Make
 
 S° 
 
 OUR 
 
 Iron mines. Make an excurfion of four miles to the Weft, to vifit the great 
 
 iron mines at Whhrigs : the ore is found in immenfe beds beneath 
 two ftrata, one oipinnel or coarfe gravel, about fifteen yards thick ; 
 the next is lime-ftone of twenty yards : the ftratum of ore is rather 
 uncertain in extent, but is from ten to fifteen yards thick, and forty 
 in extent ; and fometimes two hundred tuns have been taken up in 
 a week. A cubic yard of ore weighs three tuns and a half : the 
 common produce of metal is one tun from thirty-five to forty hun- 
 dred of ore i but fome has been fo rich as to yield a tun of iron from 
 twenty feven hundred of the mineral. 
 
 The ore lies in vaft heaps about the mines, fo as to form perfect 
 mountains •, is of that fpecies called by mineralogifls hematites and 
 kidney-ore j is red, very greafy, and defiling. The iron race that 
 inhabit the mining villages exhibit a ftrange appearance : men, 
 women and children are perfectly dyed with it, and even innocent 
 babes do quickly affume the bloody complexion of the foil. 
 
 The ore is carried on board the mips for 12 s. per tun, each tun 
 21 hundred; and the adventurers pay is. 6d. per tun farm for li- 
 berty of raifing it. It is entirely fmelted with wood charcoal, but is 
 got in fuch quantities that wood in thefe parts is fometimes want- 
 ing i fo that charcoal is fometimes procured from the poor woods of 
 Mull, and other of the Hebrides. 
 
 Thefe mines have been worked above four hundred years ago, as 
 appears by the grant of William of Lancafter, Lord of Kendal, to the 
 priory of Conijbed, in this neighborhood, of the mine of Plumpton t 
 probably part of the prefent vein ; which he conveys libera introitu et 
 cxitu ad duos eouos cum hominibus minam cariandam, &c. * 
 
 * Dugdak, II, 425. 
 
 The
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 3-i 
 
 The veftiges of the antient workings are very frequent, and ap- 
 parent enough, from the vaft hollows in the earth wherever they have 
 funk in. 
 
 From one of the banks have a great view of the lower Furnefs, as 
 far as appears, a woodlefs tract, and of the ifle of Walney, ftretching 
 along the coaft, and forming to it a fecure counterfcarp from the 
 rage of the fea. At the South end is Peel caftle, originally built, and Peel castle. 
 fupported by the abby of Furnefs, and garrifoned with fixty men, as 
 a protection againft the Scots. 
 
 The abby lies oppofite, and the very ruins evince its former mag- Furness abby. 
 nifkence*. It was founded in 1127, by Stephen, Earl of Moriton 
 and Bologne, afterwards King of England, or rather removed by him 
 from Tulket in Aundirnefs. The monks were originally of the order 
 of Tironenftans, of the rule of St. Benedicl, but afterwards became 
 Cifter cians -f-. 
 
 The little Tarn, or water called Standing Tarn, is within fight ; it 
 is of considerable depth, and abounds with pike, roch and eels ; alfo 
 with large trout ; and is remarkable for having no vifible outlet, but 
 difcharges its waters by fome fubterraneous pafTage. 
 
 See, towards the North, at a fmall diftance, the hill of Black- Black-Coomb. 
 Coomb, in Cumberland, often vifible from Flint/hire, and an infallible 
 prefage to us of bad weather. I found from the report of the inha- 
 bitants of thefe parts, that the appearance of our country is equally 
 ominous to them, and equally unacceptable. 
 
 See Swartz-moor hall, near which Martin Swartz and his Germans Swartz-moori 
 
 * Finely engraven among the views publifhed by the fociety of Antiquaries. 
 f Dugdale, I. 704- An excellent and full account of this abby has been lately 
 publifhed, by Mr. Thomas Weft* 
 
 encamped
 
 2 A T O U R 
 
 encamped in 1487, with Lambert Simnel, in order to collect forces 
 in thefe parts, before his attempt to wreft the crown from Henry 
 VII. He was fupported by Sir Thomas Broughton, a gentleman of 
 this neighborhood, who, efcaping afterwards from the battle of 
 Stoke, like our Owen Glendwr lived many years (when he was fup- 
 pof j d to have been (lain) in great obfeurity, fupported by his faith- 
 ful tenants in Weftmor eland. 
 George Fox. And in after-times the melancholy {pint of George Fox, the 
 
 founder of quakerifm, took pofTeffion of Swartz-moor hall, firft cap- 
 tivating the heart of a widow, the relict, of judge Fell, the then inha- 
 bitant, moving her congenial foul to refign herfelf to him in the 
 bonds of matrimony. From thence he fallied forth, and I trufl 
 unintentionally, gave rife to a crowd of fpiritual Quixotes (difowned 
 ^ indeed by his admirers, as his genuine followers) who for a period 
 difturbed mankind with all the extravagancies that enthufiafm could 
 invent. 
 
 Return to Uherjlon, and dine with Mr. Kendal of that place, who 
 mewed me every civility. In his pofieffion faw a fingular tripodal 
 jug, found in the neighborhood : it was wide at the bottom, and 
 narrow a.-: the top, with a fpout and handle made of a mixed metal; 
 the height of the vefTel was eight inches three quarters, of the feet 
 two three quarters. One of the fame kind was found in the county 
 of Down*, in Ireland-, yet probably both might be Roman, the laft 
 brought by accident into that Kingdom ; for Mr. Gordon, tab. 42. 
 has given the figure of one carved on the fide of an altar. 
 
 Proceed by Newland iron furnace ; afcend a high hill whofe 
 
 * Antient and prefent State of the county of Down, p. 55. 
 
 very
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 very top, as well as others adjacent, appears well peopled. Defcend 
 to Penny-bridge, or Crakeford, where a fhip of 150 tons was then 
 building. Furnaces abound in thefe parts, and various forts of im- 
 plements of hufbandry are made here. 
 
 Keep along a narrow glen on excellent roads, amidft thick cop- 
 pices, or brum woods of various forts of trees, many of them Wood*. 
 planted exprefsly for the ufe of the furnaces or bloomeries. They 
 confifl chiefly of birch and hazel : not many years ago fhip loads 
 of nuts have been exported from hence. The woods are great 
 ornaments to the country, for they creep high up the hills : The 
 owners cut them down in equal portions, in the rotation of fixteen 
 years, and raife regular revenues out of them ; and often fuperior 
 to the rent of their land, for freeholders of fifteen or twenty-five 
 pounds per annum, are known to make conftandy fixty pounds a • 
 year from their woods. The furnaces for thefe laft fixty years have 
 brought a great deal of wealth into this country. 
 
 Obferve that the tops of all the a(h trees were lopped ; and was 
 informed that it was done to feed the cattle in Autumn, when the 
 grafs was on the decline -, the cattle peeling off the bark as a food. 
 In Queen Elizabeth's time the inhabitants of Colton and Hawkfoead 
 fells remonftrated againft the number of bloomeries then in the coun- 
 try, becaufe they confumed all the loppings and croppings, the fole 
 winter food for their cattle. The people agreed to pay to the Queen 
 the rent fhe received from thefe works, on condition they were fup- 
 preifed. Thefe rents now called Bloom Smithy, are paid to the crown 
 to this day, notwithstanding the improved ftate of the country has 
 rendered the ufe of the former indulgence needlefs. 
 
 Keep by the fide of the river Crake : near its difcharge from Conin- 
 
 F fton 
 
 1%
 
 34 A T O U R 
 
 Jlcn mere, at a place called Waterfoot, lay abundance of flate brought: 
 down by water from the quarries in the fells : obferved alfo great 
 heaps of birch befoms, which are alio articles for exportation. 
 CoNutsToN mere. Reach Coninfton or Thurjlain water, a beautiful lake, about (even 
 meafured miles long-, and the greateft breadth three quarters : the 
 greatelt depth from thirty to forty fathoms. At the S. end it is. 
 narrowed by the projection of feveral little headlands running far 
 into the water, and forming between them feveral pretty bays. A 
 little higher up the wideft part commences: from thence it runs 
 quite ftralt to the end, not incurvated as the maps make it. The 
 filli of this water are char and pike : a few years ago the firft were 
 fold for qs. 6d. per dozen, but, thanks to the luxury of the times^ 
 are now railed to eight or nine (hillings. The fcenery about this 
 lake, which is fcarcely mentioned, is extremely noble. The E. 
 and W. fides are bounded by high hills often wooded ; but in gene- 
 ral compofed of grey rock, and coarfe vegetation •, much juniper 
 creeps along the furface, and fome beautiful hollies are finely inter- 
 mixed. At the north weftern extremity the vaft mountains called 
 Coninjion fells, form a magnificent mafs. In the midft is a great bo- 
 fom, retiring inward, which affords great quantities of fine flate. 
 The trade in this article has of late been greatly improved, and the 
 value of the quarries highly encreafed : a work that twenty years 
 ago did not produce to the landlord forty fhillings, at prefent brings 
 in annually as many pounds : and the whole quantity at this time 
 exported yearly from thefe mountains, is about two thoufand tuns. 
 At their feet is a fmall cultivated tract, filled with good farm 
 houfes, and near the water edge is the village and church of 
 Coninjion, Formerly thefe mountains yielded copper ; but of late 
 
 the
 
 35 
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 the works have been neglected on account of the poverty of the 
 ore. 
 
 Leave the fides of the lake, and afcend a fteep hill, furrounded 
 with woods. From the fummit have a fine view of the lake, the 
 ftupendous fells, and a winding chafm beneath fome black and 
 ferrated mountains. 
 
 The fields in thofe parts are often fenced with rows of great 
 Hates ; which no horfes will attempt leaping. See at a diftance a 
 piece of Winander mere, and that of Eafithwaite ; defcend the hill, 
 and foon reach the fmall town of Hawk/head, feated in a fertile 
 bottom. In the church is an altar tomb, with the effigies of 
 William Sandys, and Margaret his wife, moll rudely cut in Hone, 
 and done by order of his fon Edwin, Archbifhop of Tork, who 
 was born in a fmall houfe in this neighborhood. Round the tomb 
 is this infcription : 
 
 Conditur hoc tumulo, Guilielmus Sandes et uxor s 
 
 Cui Margareta nomen et omen erat. 
 Armiger ille fuit percharus regibus olim, 
 
 Ilia fed exemplar religionis erat. 
 Conjugii fuerant asquali forte beati, 
 
 Felices opibus, ftemmate, prole, fide. 
 Quos amor et pietas Iseto conjunxit eodem : 
 
 Hos fub fpe vitas continet ilte lapis. 
 
 Leave Hawkjhead, and ride by the fide of Urfwick mere, about May 
 
 two miles long, and three quarters broad ; on each fide orna- Urswick mere. 
 mented with a pretty elevated peninfula, jutting far into the water. 
 Its fifh are perch, called here bafs, pike, eels, but no trout. The Eels. 
 
 eels defcend in multitudes through the river that flows from this 
 
 F 2 mere
 
 ■ 3 6 A T O U R 
 
 mere into TVinander, beginning their migration with the firft floods 
 after midfummer ; and ceafe on the firft mows. The inhabitants 
 of the country take great numbers in wheels at that feafon •, when 
 it is their opinion that the eels are going into the fait water ; and 
 that they return in fpring. 
 
 The roads are excellent amidft fine woods, with grey rocks 
 patched with mofs rifing above. In one place obferved a Holly 
 park, a tract preferved entirely for fheep, who are fed in winter 
 with the croppings, Wild cats inhabit in too great plenty thefe 
 woods and rocks. 
 
 The Lichen Tartareus, or ftone rag, as it is called here, incrufts 
 moft of the ftones : is gathered for the ufe of dyers by the Pea- 
 Ian ts, who fell it at a penny per pound, and can collect two ftone 
 weight of it in a day. 
 
 Reach Graithwaite, the feat of Mr. Sandys; and from the cats 
 craig, an eminence near the houfe, have an extenfive view up and 
 down the water of Winander, for feveral miles. The variety of 
 beautiful bays that indent the fhore \ the fine wooded rifings that 
 bound each fide •, and the northern termination of lofty fells 
 patched with lhow, compote a fcene the moft picturefque that can 
 be imagined. 
 
 See on the plain part of thefe hills numbers of fpringes for 
 Woodcocks. woodcocks, laid between tufts of heath, with avenues of fmall 
 ftones on each fide, to direct thefe foolifh birds into the fnares, 
 for they will not hop over the pebbles. Multitudes are taken in 
 this manner in the open weather ; and fold on the fpot for fix- 
 teen pence or twenty pence a couple (about 20 years ago at fix- 
 pence
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 pence or feven pence) and fent to the all-devouring capital, by 
 the Kendal ftage. 
 
 After breakfaft, take boat at a little neighboring creek, and 
 have a moil advantageous view of this beautiful lake, being fa- 
 vored with a calm day and fine Iky. The length of this water 
 is about twelve miles ; the breadth about a mile ; for the width is 
 unequal from the multitude of pretty bays, that give fuch an ele- 
 gant finuofity to its mores, efpecially thole on the eaft, or the 
 Wejlmoreland fide. The horns of thefe little ports project far, 
 and are finely wooded ; as are all the lelTer hills that fkirt the 
 water. 
 
 At a diftance is another feries of hills, lofty, rude, grey and 
 mofTy ; and above them foar the immenfe heights of the fells of 
 Conenjion, the mountains oiWrynofe and Hard- knot, and the conic 
 points of Langden fells ; all except the firft in Cumberland. 
 
 The waters are difcharged out of the South end, at Newby- 
 bridge, with a rapid precipitous current, then affume the name 
 of Leven, and after a courfe of two miles fall into the eftuary 
 called the Leven fands. The depth of this lake is various, from 
 four yards and a half to feventy-four, and, excepting near the 
 fides, the bottom is entirely rocky : in fome places are vaft iuba- 
 queous precipices, the rock falling at once perpendicular, for the 
 depth of twenty-yards, within forty of the more ; and the fame 
 depth is preferved acrofs the channel. The fall of the Leven, 
 from the lake to high water mark, is ninety feet; the deepen: part 
 of the lake a hundred and thirty- two beneath that point. 
 
 The boatmen directed their courfe Northward, and brought us 
 by the heathy ifle of Lingholm, and the far projecting cape of 
 
 Rowlinforfs 
 
 37 
 
 ■"- jT*-" 

 
 3* 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 Rawlinfon's Nab. On the left hand obferve the termination of 
 Lancafhire, juft South of the Stor, a great promontory in Wefi- 
 moreland^ all the remaining Weftern fide is clamed by the firft ; 
 but Wejlmor eland bounds the reft, fo has the faireft clame to call 
 itielf owner of this fuperb water. 
 
 On doubling the Stor a new expanfe opened before us j left the 
 little ifle of Crowbolme on the right, traverfed the lake towards 
 the horfe ferry, and a little beyond, the great Holme of thirty 
 acres croffes the water, and conceals the reft. This delicious ifle 
 is bleft with a rich pafturage, is adorned with a pretty grove, and 
 has on it a good houfe. 
 
 It has been the fortune of this beautiful retreat often to change 
 matters : the flattering hopes of the charms of retirement have 
 mifled feveral to purchafe it from the laft cheated owner, who 
 after a little time dilcovered, that a conftant enjoyment of the 
 fame objects, delightful as they were, foon fatiated. There muft 
 be fomething more than external charms to make a retreat from 
 the world long endurable ; the qualifications requifite fall to the 
 fhare of a very fewj without them difguft and wearinefs will foon 
 invade their privacy, notwithstanding they courted it with all the 
 paflion and all the romance with which the poet did his mif- 
 trefs *. 
 
 Sic ego fecretis poflum bene vivere fylvis, 
 
 Qua nulla humano fit via trita pede. 
 Tu mihi curarum requies, tu node vel atra 
 
 Lumen, et in folis tu mihi turba locis, 
 
 / • Tibullus iv. 13, 9. 
 
 From
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 3 9 
 
 From this ifland began a new and broader extent of water, bounded 
 on the Weft by the bold and lofty face of a fleep hill, patched 
 with the deep green of vaft yews and hollies, that embellifhed 
 its naked flope. This expanfe is varied with feveral very pretty 
 ifles, fome bare, others j uft appear above water, tufted with trees : 
 on the North-Eaft fide is the appearance of much cultivation -, a 
 trad near the village of Boulnefs falls gently to the water edge, 
 and rifes again far up a high and large mountain, beyond which 
 is a grand fkreen of others, the pointed heads of Troutbeck fells, 
 the vaft rounded mafs of Fairfield, and the ftill higher fummit of 
 Rydal. 
 
 Land, and dine in 
 
 WESTMORELAND, 
 
 at Boulnefs, antiently called Winander, giving name to the lake ; and 
 am here treated with moft delicate trout and perch, the fifh of this 
 water. The charr is found here in great plenty > and of a fize fu- Chariu 
 
 perior to thofe in Wales. They fpawn about Michaelmas, in the river 
 Brat bay, which, with the Rowthay are the great feeds of the lake, 
 preferring the rocky bottom of the former to the gravelly bottom 
 of the other. The fifherrnen diftinguifti two varieties, the cafe- 
 charr and the gelt-charr, i. e, a fifh which had not fpawned the 
 laft feafon, and efteemed by them the more delicate : this fpawns 
 from the beginning of January to the end of March, and never 
 afcends the river, but fele&s for that purpofe the moft gravelly 
 parts of the lake, and that which abounds moft with fprings. 
 
 It
 
 4o 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 It is taken in greateft plenty from the end of September to the 
 end of November, but at other times is very rarely met with. 
 
 The monks of the abby of Furnefs had a grant from William 
 of Lancafter, privileging them to fifli on this water with one 
 boat and twenty nets ± but in cafe any of the fervants belonging 
 to the abby, and fo employed, mifbehaved themfelves, they 
 were to be chaftifed by the Lord of the water ; and in cafe they 
 refufed to fubmit, the abbot was bound to dilcharge them, and 
 make them forfeit their wages for their delinquency*. 
 
 Remount my horfe, and continue my journey along the fides 
 of the lake, and from an eminence about half a mile N. of the 
 village of Boulnefs, have a fine view of the water and all it's 
 windings ; and obferve that the lad bend points very far to the 
 Weft/ 
 
 On advancing towards the end have an auguft profpec~b of the 
 whole range of thefe Northern apennines, exhibiting all the variety 
 of grandeur in the uniform immenfe mafs, the conic fummit, the 
 broken ridge, and the overhanging crag, with the deep chafm-like 
 pafiages far winding along their bafes, rendered more horrible by 
 the blackening fliade of the rocks. 
 Eagles. Among the birds which poffefs this exalted traft, the eagles 
 
 are the firft in rank : they breed in many places. If one is killed, 
 the other gets a new mate, and retains it's antient aery. Thofe 
 who take their nefts find in them remains of great numbers of moor 
 game : they are befides very pernicious to the heronries : it is re- 
 narked, in the laying fealbn of the herons, when the eagles terrify 
 
 * Dugdak MonaJI. I. 706. 
 
 them
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 them from their nefts, that crows, watching the opportunity, will 
 ileal away their eggs. 
 
 The red deer which ftill run wild in Martindak foreft, fome- 
 ■times ftraggled into thofe parts. 
 
 Reach Amblefide, a fmall town above the extremity of the lake : Amblesidi. 
 the inhabitants of thefe parts are very induftrious -, are much em- 
 ployed in knitting ftockings for Kendal market ; in fpinning wool- 
 len yarn, and in making thread to weave their linfies. The coun- 
 tenances of the people begin to alter ; efpecially in the tender 
 fex •, the face begins to fquare, and the cheek bone begins to rife, 
 as if fymptomatic of my approaching towards North Britain. 
 
 Below Amblefide, in a meadow near the river Brathay, is a Ro- 
 man camp, the fuppofed Diclis of the Notitza, where coins, bricks, Dictis* 
 &c. have been often found. The outline of the work is ftill vi- 
 fible, and its extent is four hundred feet one way, and three hun- 
 dred the other : it was the ftation of part of the cohort of the 
 Numerus Nerviorum Diftenjium, and placed very conveniently to 
 command feveral paffes. 
 
 At a fmall diftance from Amblefide, fee Rydal, the houfe of Sir May 23. 
 
 Michael le Fleming, placed in a moft magnificent fituation ; hav- 
 ing the lake full in front, a rich intervening fore-ground ; and on Rydal-hall. 
 each fide a ftupendous guard of mountains. This family have 
 been fixed in the north ever fince the conqueft, and became owners 
 of Rydal-hall by a marriage with one of the coheirefles, daughter 
 of Sir John de Lancajler, in the time of Hen. IV. 
 
 Near the houfe is a lofty rocky brae, cloathed with multitudes 
 of gigantic yews and hollies, that from their fize and antiquity, 
 
 G give 
 
 4f
 
 '& 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 give it a mod venerable appearance •, and not far from its foot is 
 Rydal water, about a mile long, beautified with little ifles. 
 
 Go through Rydal pafs, or, in the dialed of the country, Rydal 
 haws, or gullet. Ride through Grafs-mere, a fertile vale with a 
 lake clofed at the end by a noble pyramidal mountain. 
 Dunmailwrays. On a high pafs between the hills, obierve a large Carnedd cal- 
 led Dunmail Wrays pries, collected in memory of a defeat, A. D. 
 946. o-iven to a petty king of Cumberland, of that name, by Ed- 
 mund I. who with the ufual barbarity of the times, put out the 
 eyes of his two fons, and gave his country to Malcolm, king of 
 Scotland, on condition he preferved in peace the northern parts of. 
 
 England, 
 The defcent from hence to the vale of Kefwick, nine miles. . 
 Near this place enter 
 
 G U M B E R L A N D, 
 
 having on the left the long, extended front of Helvellin fells. Molt : 
 of the hills in thefe parts are fine fheep walks, fmooth and well 
 turfed. The fheep are fmall, but the mutton exquifitely tafted, 
 being feldom killed before it is fix or feven years old. The wool 
 is coarfe, but manufactured into ordinary carpets and blankets, . 
 No goats are kept here on account of the damage they would do 
 to the woods. 
 Thiul-water. Arrive within fight of Thirl-water, a moft beautiful but narrow 
 
 lake, filling the bottom of a long dale for near four, miles. From 
 an eminence near Bale-head houfe, have a pidturefque view over 
 great part of its extent. About the middle, the land for above 
 
 a hundred .
 
 3d
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 43 
 
 a hundred yards, approaches and contracts the water to the fke 
 of a little river, over which is a true Alpine bridge * and behind 
 that the water inflantly relumes the former breadth. 
 
 Regaining the road, have aftrange and horrible view downwards, 
 into a deep and mifty vale, at this time appearing bottomlefs, and 
 winding far amidft the mountains, darkened by their height, and 
 the thick clouds that hung on their fummits. 
 
 In the courfe of the deicent, vifit, under the guidance of Doc- 
 tor Brownrigg (the firft dilcoverer) a fine piece of antiquity of 
 that kind which is attributed to the Druids. An arrangement of 
 great ftones tending to an oval figure, is to be feen near the road 
 fide, about a mile and a half from Kefwick, on the fummit of a Druid temple. 
 pretty broad and high hill, in an arable field called Cafile. The 
 area is thirty-four yards from north to fouth, and near thirty 
 from eaft to weft ; but many of the ftones are fallen down, fome 
 inward, others outward : according to the plan, they are at pre* 
 fent forty in number. At the north end, are two much larger 
 than the reft, ftanding five feet and a half above the foil : be- 
 tween thefe may be fuppofed to have been the principal entrance * 
 oppofite to it, on the S. fide, are others of nearly the fame heioht ; 
 and on the eaft is one near feven feet high. But what diftin- 
 guifhes this from all other Druidical remains of this nature, is a 
 reftangular recefs on the eaft fide of the area, formed of o-reat 
 ftones, like thofe of the oval. Thefe ftructures are confidered in 
 general to have been temples, or places of worfhip : the recefs 
 here mentioned feems to have been allotted for the Druids, the 
 priefts of the place, a fort of Holy of Holies, where they met fe- 
 parated from the vulgar, to perform their rites, their divinations, 
 
 G 2 or
 
 44 
 
 OUR 
 
 or to fit in council, to determine on controverfies, to compromife 
 all differences about limits of land, or about inheritances, or for 
 the tryal of the greater criminals * ; the Druids poffefling both 
 the office of prieft and judge. The caufe that this recefs was 
 placed on the eafl fide, feems to arife from the refpe£b paid by 
 the antient natives of this ifie to that beneficent luminary the fun, 
 not originally an idolatrous refpect, but merely as a fymbol of ths 
 glorious all-feeing Being, its great Creator. 
 
 In the fame plate with thefe Druidical remains, is engraven a fpe- 
 cies of fibula cut out of a fiat piece of filver, of a form better to be 
 expreffed by the figure than words. Its breadth is, from one exte- 
 rior fide to the other, four inches. This was difcovered lodged in 
 the mud, on deepening a fifh-pond in Brayton Park in Cumberland, the 
 feat of Sir Wilfrid Law/on, and communicated to me by Doctor 
 Brownrigg. With it was found a large filver hook, of two ounces 
 weight. The length of the fliank from the top to the curva- 
 ture at bottom,, four inches and. three eights. The hook not fo 
 long. 
 Keswick Vale. Arrive near the Elyfium of the North, the vale of Kefwick 3 .a. 
 circuit between land and water of about twenty miles. From an 
 eminence above, command a fine bird's eye view of the whole of 
 the broad fertile plain, the town of Kefwick, the white church of 
 Crofwhaite, the boafted lake of Verwentwater, and the beginning 
 of that of Bajfenthwaite, with a full fight of the vaft circumja- 
 cent, mountains that guard this delicious fpot. 
 
 Dine at Kefwick, a fmall market town : where, and in the 
 neighborhood, are manufactures of carpet*, flannels, linfies and 
 
 • Csf. de Bello Gal. lib. vi. 
 
 yarn :
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 45 
 
 yarn : the laft fold to people from Cockermoutb, who come for it 
 every market day. 
 
 Take boat on the celebrated lake of Berwentwater. The form Derwentwater. 
 is irregular, extending from North to South, about three miles 
 and a half; the bread ch one and a half. The greateft depth is 
 twenty feet in a channel, running from end to end, probably 
 formed by the river Derwent, which 5 pafTes through, and gives name 
 to the lake. 
 
 The views on every fide are very different : here all the poflible 
 variety of Alpine fcenery is exhibited, with all the horror of pre- 
 cipice, broken crag, or over-hanging rock ; or infulated pyramid 
 dal hills, contrafted with others whofe fmooth and verdant fides, 
 fwel ling into aerial heights, at once pleafe and furprize the eye. 
 
 The two extremities of the lake afford moil difcordant pro- 
 fpects : the Southern is a compofition of all that is horrible-, an 
 immenfe chafm opens in the midft, whofe entrance is divided by 
 a rude conic hill, once topt with a cattle, the habitation of the 
 tyrant of the rocks; beyond, a feries of broken mountanous crags, 
 now patched with fnow, foar one above the other, overfhadow- 
 ing the dark winding deeps of Borrowdde. In thefe black re- 
 cefTes are lodged variety of minerals, the origin of evil by their, 
 abufe, and placed by nature, not remote from the fountain of it. 
 
 Itnm eft in vifcera terra?, 
 Quafque recondiderat/^gvV/^ removerat umttfis, 
 Effodiuntur opes. 
 
 But the oppofite or northern view is in all refpeds a ftrong and 
 beautiful contrail: Skiddaw mews its vaft bafe, and bounding all 
 that part of the vale, rifes gently to a height that finks the neigh- 
 boring
 
 46 A T O U R 
 
 boring hills •, opens a pleafing front, fmooth and verdant, fmil- 
 • ing over the country like a gentle generous lord, while the fells 
 of Borrowdale frown on it like a hardened tyrant. 
 
 Each boundary of the lake feerris to take part with the extre- 
 mities, and emulates their appearance: the fouthern varies in 
 rocks of different forms, from the tremendous precipices of 
 the Lcdfs-Leap, the broken front of the Falcon' 's-Neft, to the 
 more diftant concave curvature of Lowdore, an extent of preci- 
 pitous rock, with trees vegetating from the numerous fifilires, 
 and the foam of a cataract precipitating amidft. 
 
 The entrance into Borrowdale divides the fcene, and the northern 
 .fide alters into milder forms ; a fait fpring, once the property of 
 the monks of Furnefs, trickles along the more j hills (the reforc 
 of fhepherds) with downy fronts, and lofty fummits, fucceed ; 
 with woods cloathing their bafes, even to the water's edge. 
 
 Not far from hence the environs appear to the navigator of 
 the lake to the greateft advantage, for on every fide mountains 
 clofe the profpect, and form an amphi-theatre almoft matchlefs. 
 
 Loch-Lomond in Scotland, and Lough-Lene in Ireland, are pow- 
 erful rivals to the lake in queftion : was a native of either of thofe 
 kingdoms to demand my opinion of their refpective beauties, I 
 muft anfwer as the fubtile Melvil did the vain Elizabeth : That Jhe 
 ■was the fairejl per/on in England j and mine the faireft in Scot- 
 land. 
 
 The ifles that decorate this water are few, but finely difpofed, and 
 very diftincl: •, rife with gentle and regular curvatures above the 
 furface, confift of verdant turf, or are planted with various trees. 
 The principal is the Lord's ifiand, about five acres, where the Rat- 
 
 ■cliff
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 47 
 
 cliff family had fome time its refidence ; and from this lake took the Ratclifp 
 title of Derwentwater. The laft ill-fated Earl loft his life and for- FAMILY - 
 
 tune by the rebellion of 1715 •, and his eftate, now amounting to 
 twenty thoufand pounds per annum (the mines included) is veiled 
 in truftees for the fupport of Greenwich hofpital. 
 
 St. Herbert's iile was noted for the refidence of that faint, the 
 bofom friend of St. Cuthbert , who wifhed, and obtained his wifh 
 of departing this life on the fame day, hour and minute, with that 
 holy man. 
 
 The water of Derwentwater is fubjecl: to violent agitations, and 
 often without any apparent caufe, as was the cafe this day ; the 
 weather was calm, yet the waves ran a great height, and the boat 
 was toffed violently with what is called a bottom wind. 
 
 Went to Croffthwaite church ; obferved a monument of Sir John May 24. 
 
 Ratcliff, and dame Alice his wife, with their effigies on fmall brafs Cross-thwaite 
 
 CHURCH 
 
 plates: the infcription is in the ftyle of the times, Of your charity 
 pray for the foule of Sir John RadclifF, knight, and for the foule of 
 dame Alice his wife, which Sir John died the 2d day of February, 
 A. D. 1527, on wh of e foule the Lord have mercy. Here are alfo two 
 recumbent alabafter figures of a man and a woman ; he in a gown, 
 with a purfe at his girdle. 
 
 This is the church to Kefwick, and has five chapels belonging to it. 
 The livings of this county have been of late years much improved Livings*. 
 by Queen Anne's bounty, and there are none of lefs value than 
 thirty pounds a year. It is not very long fince the mini iter's ftipend 
 was five pounds per annum, a goofe-grafs,. or the right of commoning 
 his goofe i a whittle-gait, or the valuable privilege of ufing his knife 
 
 for •
 
 48 A T O U R 
 
 for a week at a time at any table in the parifh ; and laftly, a hardened 
 fark> i. e. a fliirt of coarfe linnen. 
 
 Saw, at Dofror Brownrigg's, of Ormathwaite, whofe hofpitality I 
 experienced for two days, great variety of the ores of Borrowdale, 
 Black leab. r^h as i eac j } common and fibrous, black-jack, and black-lead or wad. 
 The laft is found in greater quantities and purity in thofe mountains 
 than in other parts of the world. Is the property of a few gentle- 
 men, who, leaft the markets lhould be 'glutted, open the mine only 
 once in feven years, then caufe it to be filled and otherwife fecured 
 from the depredations of the neighboring miners, who will run any 
 rifque to procure fo valuable an article, for the beft fells from eight 
 to twelve ihillings a pound. The legiflature hath alfo guarded their 
 property by making the robbery, felony. 
 
 It is of great ufe in making pencils, black lead crucibles for 
 fufing of metals, for calling of bombs and cannon-balls, cleaning 
 arms, for glazing of earthen-ware ; and fome affert that it may be 
 ufed medicinally to eafe the pains of gravel, ftone, flranguary, and 
 colick : it has been fuppofed, but without foundation, to have been 
 the melanteria and pnigitis of Diofcorides : Dr. Merret calls it Nigrica 
 fabrilis, and the people of the country, fallow and wad, from the co- 
 loring quality ; killow, or collow, fignifying the dirt of coal, and wad 
 feems derived from woad, a deep dying plant *. 
 
 Till of late years the fuperftition of the Bel-tein was kept up in 
 thefe parts,' and in this rural facrifice it was cuftomary for the per- 
 formers to bring with them boughs of the mountain afh. 
 
 * M. S. Letter of Bifhop Nicholjon to Dottor Woodward, Jug. 5, 1713. 
 
 Continue
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 49 
 
 XAKE. 
 
 Continue my journey ; pafs along the vale of Kefivick, and Mast 25. 
 
 keep above Bajfenthwaite water, at a fmall cultivated diftance from Bassenthwait* 
 it : this lake is a line expanfe of four miles in length, bounded on 
 one fide by high hills, wooded in many places to their bottoms ; on 
 the other fide by fields and the fkirts of Skiddaw. 
 
 Marks of the plough appear on the tops of many of the hills. 
 Tradition fays, that in the reign of King John, the Pope curfed all 
 the lower grounds, and thus obliged the inhabitants to make the 
 hills arable: but I rather believe that John himfelf drove them to 
 this cruel neceffity, for out of refentment of their -declining to follow 
 his ftandards to the borders of Scotland, he cut down their hedges, 
 levelled the ditches, and gave all the cultivated tracts of the North 
 to the beads of chace, on his return from his expedition. 
 
 From Mr. Spedyn's of Armethwaite, at the lower extremity of the 
 lake, have a fine view of the whole. Near this place the Derwent 
 quits the lake, palling under Ouze bridge, confifting of three arches. 
 Salmons come up the river from the fea about. Michaelmas, and force 
 their way through both lakes as far as Borrowdale. They had lately 
 been on their return, but the water near the bridge proving too mal- 
 low to permit them to proceed, they were taken by dozens, in very 
 bad order, in the nets that were drawing for trout at the end of the 
 lake. 
 
 On a hill near this fpot is a circular Britijh entrenchment; and I 
 was told of others of a fqu are form, at a few miles diftance, at the 
 foot of Caermote ; I fuppofe Roman. 
 
 The country now begins to lower, ceafes to be mountanous, but 
 fwells into extenfive rifings. Ride near the Derwent, and pafs 
 through the hamlets of I/el, Blincraik and Redmain ; in a few places 
 
 £1 wooded,
 
 5° 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 wooded, but generally naked, badly cultivated, and inclofed with 
 Bridekirk font, ftone walls. Reach Bridekirk, a village with a fmall church, noted 
 for an antient font, found at Papcafile, with an infcription expl?ined 
 by the learned Prelate Nuholfon, in Camden s Britannia, and engraven 
 in the fecond volume of the works of the fociety of antiquaries. 
 The height, is two feet and an inch •, the form fquare •, on each fide 
 are different fculptures •, on one a crofs, on another a two-headed 
 monfter, with a triple flower falling from one common Hem, hang- 
 ing from its mouth : beneath is a perfon, St. John Baptijl, performing 
 the office of baptifm by the immerfion of a child, our Saviour ; and 
 above the child is a (now) imperfect dove •, on a third fide is a fort 
 of centaur, attacked by a bird and fome animal j and under them the 
 ano-el driving our firfl father out of Eden, while Eve clings clofe to, 
 the tree of life, as if exclaiming, 
 
 Oh ! unexpected ftroke, worfe than of death ! 
 Muft I then leave thee, Paradife ? Thus leave 
 Thee, native foil ! 
 
 And on the fourth fide two birds, with fome ornaments and figures 
 beneath ; and the infcription in runic characters thus decyphered 
 by the Bifliop : 
 
 Er Erkard ban men egroclen, and to dis men red zver Taner men 
 Brogten. That is to fay, 
 
 Here Ekard was converted, and to this man's example were the 
 Danes brought. 
 
 It is certain that the infcription was cut in memory of this remark- 
 able event ; but whether the font was made exprefsly on the occa- 
 fion, or whether it was not of much more antient date (as the anti- 
 quary
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 quary fuppofes) and the infcription put on at the time of this con- 
 verfion, appears to me at this period very uncertain. 
 
 Pafs, not far from Bridekirk, through the village of Papcajlle* 
 once a Roman flation, conjectured by Mr. Horjley to have been 
 the Derventione of the geographer of Ravenna ; where many mo- 
 numents of antiquity have been found. In a field on the left, 
 on defcending into the village, are the remains of fome dikes. 
 Reach 
 
 Cockermouth, a large town with broad flreets, irregularly built, 
 warned by the Derwent on the weftern fide, and divided in two 
 by the Cocker, and the parts connected by a bridge of a fingle 
 arch. The number of inhabitants are between three and four 
 thoufand : the manufactures are fhalloons, worried {lockings and 
 hats; the lad exported from Glafgow to the Weft-Indies. It is a 
 borough town, and the right of voting is veiled by burgefs tenure 
 in certain houfes : this is alfo the town where the county elections 
 are made. 
 
 The caftle is feated on an artificial mount, on a bank above the 
 "Derwent : is fquare, and is ftrengthened with feveral fquare towers : 
 on each fide of the inner gate are two deep dungeons, capable of 
 holding fifty perfons in either ; are vaulted at top, and have only a 
 fmall opening in order to lower through* it the unhappy prifoners 
 into this dire prifon ; and on the outfide of each is a narrow flit with 
 a dope from it *, and down this were (hot the provifions allotted to 
 the wretched inhabitants. In the feudal times death and captivity 
 were almofl fynonymous; but the firft was certainly preferable j 
 which may be one caufe why the battles of antient days were fo 
 bloody, 
 
 H 2 This 
 
 5i
 
 5* 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 This caftle was founded by Waldo/, firft lord of Allerdale, and 
 fon of Gofpatrick, earl of Northumberland, cotemporary with William 
 the conqueror •, Waldof refided firft at Papcaftle, which he after- 
 wards demolifhed, and with the materials built that at Cockermoutb, 
 where he and his pofterity long refided ; but feveral arms over the 
 gateway, which Camden fays are thofe of the Multons, Humfranvilles^ 
 Lucies and Perries, evince it to have been in later times in thofe fa- 
 milies. It appears that it was firft granted by Edw. II. to Anthony 
 de Lucie, fon of Thomas de Multon, who had affumed that name by 
 reafon that his mother was daughter and coheirefs to Richard de 
 Lucie -, and afterwards, by marriages, this caftle and its honors de* 
 fcended to the Humfranvilles, and finally to the Perries *. In 1648 it 
 was garrifoned for the King •, and being befieged and taken by the 
 rebels, was burnt, and never afterwards repaired, 
 May z6: Purfue my journey for about four or five miles along a tolerably 
 
 fertile country ; and then arrive amidft the collieries : crofs fome 
 barren heaths, with inclofed land on each fide, deftitute both of 
 hedges and woods. Pafs through Dijfinton, a long and dirty town, 
 and foon after, from a great height, at once come in fight of 
 Whitehaven, 
 
 and fee the whole at a fingle glaunce, feated in a hollow, open to the 
 fea on the north. It lies in the parifh of St. Bees, whofe vaft pro- 
 montory, noted for the great refort of birds, appears four miles to 
 the fouth -, and in days of old, ftill more noted for its patronefs St. 
 Bega, who tamed fierce bulls, and brought down deep fnows at midr 
 dimmer. 
 
 * Dugdalit Baronage, I. 564, &c. 
 
 The
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 The town is in a manner a new creation, for the old editions of 
 Camden make no mention of it ; yet the name is in Saxton's maps, its 
 white cliffs being known to feamen. The rife of the place is owino- 
 to the collieries, improved and encouraged by the family of the 
 Lowthers, to their great emolument. About a hundred years ago. 
 there was not one houfe here,, except Sir John Lowtber's, and two 
 others, and only three fmall vefTels : and for the next forty years, 
 the number of houfes encreafed to about twenty. At this time the. 
 town may boaft of being one of the handfomeft in the north of 
 England, built of ftone, and the flreets pointing ftrait to the harbour, 
 with others eroding them at right angles. It is as populous as it is 
 elegant, containing twelve thoufand inhabitants, and has a hundred 
 and ninety great fhips belonging to it, moftly employed in the coal 
 trade. 
 
 The tobacco trade is much declined : formerly about twenty 
 thoufand hogmeads were annually imported from Virginia; now 
 fcarce a fourth of that number; Glafgow having ftolen that branch : 
 but to make amends, another is carried on to the Weft-Indies, where 
 hats, printed linens, hams, &c. are fent. The laft week was a me- 
 lancholy and pernicious exportation of a hundred and fifty natives 
 of Great Britain, forced from their natal foil, the low lands of Scot- 
 land, by the raile of rents, to leek an afylum on the other fide of tha 
 Atlantic' 
 
 The improvements in the adjacent lands keep pace with thofe in 
 the town : the Brainfty eftate forty years ago was fet for as many 
 pounds i at prefent, by dint of good hufbandry, efpecially liming^ 
 is encreafed to five hundred and feventy-one. 
 
 In the town are three churches or chapels : St. James's, is elegantly Churches, 
 
 fitted 
 
 53
 
 5+ 
 
 A T O XJ R 
 
 fitted up, and has a handibme gallery, which, with the roof, is fup- 
 ported by moft beautiful ranges of pillars. Befides, is a prefbyterian 
 meeting, one of feceders, of anabaptifts, and quakers. 
 
 The workhouie is thinly inhabited •, for few of the poor chufe to 
 enter. Thole whom neceflity compels, are mod ufefully employed: 
 with pleafure I obferved old age, idiocy, and even infants of three 
 years of age, contributing to their own fupport, by the pulling of 
 " oakem. 
 Harbour. The harbour is artificial, but a fine and expenfive work, on the 
 
 fouth end, guarded by a long pier, where the mips may lie in great 
 fecurity. Another is placed farther out, to break the force of the 
 fea ; and within thefe are two long ftrait tongues, or quays, where 
 the veJfels are lodged : clofe to the more, on the fouth fide, is an- 
 other, covered with what is called here a Steer, having in the lower 
 part a range of fmiths mops, and above an extenfive floor, capable 
 of containing fix thoufand waggon loads of coal, of 4200 lb. each. 
 But this is only ufed as a fort of magazine : for above this are co- 
 vered galleries with rail roads, terminating in large flues, or hurries, 
 placed Hoping over the quay, and thro' thefe the coal is difcharged 
 out of the waggons into the holds of the fhips, rattling down with a 
 noife like thunder. Commonly eight fhips, from a hundred and 
 twenty to a hundred tuns each, have been loaden in one tide-, and on 
 extraordinary occafions twelve. Each load is put on board for ten 
 (hillings : and the waggons, after being emptied, are brought round 
 into the road by a turn frame, and drawn back by a fingle horfe. 
 The greater part of the way from the pits, which lie about three or 
 four miles diltant from the hurries is down hill ; the waggon is 
 fleered by one man, with a fort of rudder to direft it 5 fo that he 
 
 can
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 can retard or accelerate the motion by the preflure he gives by it 
 
 on the wheel. 
 
 Many other works are projected to fecure the port, particularly 
 
 another pier on the north fide, which when complete, will render 
 
 this haven quite land-locked. It is to be obferved, that in cominp- 
 
 in veffels mould carry a full fail till they pafs the pier head, 
 
 otherwife they will not be carried far enough in. The greater! part 
 
 of the coal is fent to Ireland, where about two hundred and ei°-h-- 
 
 o 
 
 teen thoufand tons are annually exported. 
 
 Spring tides rife here twenty-four feet. Neap tides thirteen. 
 
 Vifit the collieries, entering at the foot of a hill, not diftant Collieries. 
 from the town, attended by the agent : the entrance was a nar- 
 row paflage, bricked and vaulted, Hoping down with an eafy de^ 
 fcent. Reach the .firft beds of coal which had been worked about 
 a century ago : the roofs are fmooth and fpacious, the pillars of 
 fufficient ftrength to fupport the great fuperftructure, being fif- 
 teen yards fquare, or fixty in circumference ; not above a third 
 of the coal having been worked in this place ; fo that to me the 
 very columns feemed left as refources for fuel in future times, 
 The immenfe caverns that lay between the pillars, exhibited a 
 mod gloomy appearance: I could not help enquiring here after 
 the imaginary inhabitant, the creation of the laborers fancy, 
 
 The fwart Fairy of the mine. - 
 
 and was ferioufly anfwered by a black fellow at my elbow, that 
 he really had never met with any; but that his grandfather 
 
 had 
 
 55
 
 A TOUR 
 
 had found the little implements and tools belonging to this dimi- 
 nutive race of fubterraneous fpirits *. 
 
 The beds of coal are nine or ten feet thick : and dip to the 
 weft one yard in eight. In various parts are great bars of ftone, 
 which cut off the coal: if they bend one way, they influence 
 the coal to rife above one's head •, if another, to fink beneath the 
 feet. Operations of nature paft my fkill to unfold. 
 
 •Reach a place where there is a very deep defcent •, the colliers 
 call this Hardknot, from the mountain of that name j and another 
 JVrynofe. At about eighty fathoms depth began to fee the work- 
 ings of the rods of the fire-engine, and the prefent operations of 
 the colliers, who work now in fecurity, for the fire-damps, for- 
 merly fo dangerous, are almoft overcome ; at prefent they are pre- 
 vented by boarded partitions, placed a foot diitant from the fides, 
 which caufes a free circulation of air throughout : but as Hill 
 there are fome places not capable of fuch conveniencies, the colliers, 
 who dare not venture with a candle in -fpots where fire-damps are 
 fuppofed to lurk, have invented a curious machine to ferve the 
 purpofe of lights : it is what they call a fteel-mill, confiding of a 
 fmail wheel and a handle j this they turn with vaft rapidity againft 
 a flint, and the great quantity of fparks emitted, not only ferves 
 
 * The Germans believed in two fpecies ; one fierce and malevolent, the other a 
 gentle race, appearing like little old men, drefled like the miners, and not much 
 above two feet high : thefe wander about the drifts and chambers of the work*, 
 feem perpetually employed, yet do nothing ; fome feem to cut the ore, or fling what 
 is cut into vefTels, or turn the windlafs ; but never do any harm to the miners, ex- 
 cept provoked : as the fenfible Jgricola, in this point credulous, relates in his book, 
 dt dnimantibus fubttrraneis, 
 
 for
 
 IN SCOTLAND. & 
 
 for a candle, but has been found of fuch a nature as not to fet 
 fire to the horrid vapour. 
 
 Formerly the damp or fiery vapour was conveyed thro' pipes 
 to the open air, and formed a terrible illumination during night, 
 like the eruptions of a vulcano •, and by its heat water could be 
 boiled : the men who worked in it inhaled inflammable air, and, 
 if they breathed againft a candle, puffed out a fiery ftream ; fo 
 that I make no doubt, was the experiment made, the fame 
 phcenomenon would appear as John Grub * attributed to my illus- 
 trious countryman Pendragon, chief of Britons. 
 
 Reached the extremity of this black journey to a place near two 
 miles from the entrance, beneath the fea, where probably mips 
 were then failing over us. Returned up the laborious afcent, and 
 was happy once more to emerge into day-light. 
 
 The property of thefe works, as well as the whole town, is in 
 Sir James Lozvtber, who draws from them and his rents of the 
 buildings fixteen thoufand pounds a year; whereas his grandfather 
 only made fifteen hundred. The prefent Baronet has inftituted 
 here a charity of the moft beautiful nature, ufeful, humane and 
 unoftentatious. He always keeps filled a great granary of oats, 
 which he buys from all parts ; but never difpofes of, while the 
 markets are low •, but the moment they rife above five (hillings the 
 Cumberland bufhel, or three Wincbejier meafures, he inftantly opens 
 his ftores to the poor colliers and artificers, and fells it to them at 
 five millings, notwithflanding it might have coil him feven : thus 
 happily difappointing the rapacity of the vulturine monopolizer. 
 
 • Dr. Ptre/s Antient Songs, 2d cd. III. 313. 
 
 I Leave
 
 58 A T O U R 
 
 Leave Whitehaven, and return about two miles on the fame 
 road I came. See under the cliffs a neat little village called Parton,. 
 and a pier, intended for fhipping of coal j a new creation by Sir 
 James Lowther. 
 Moresby. Leave More/by on the left •, a place near the more, mentioned 
 
 by Camden, as of great antiquity, a fort of the Romans, and: 
 where feveral infcriptions have been found : he alfo fpeaks of cer- 
 tain caverns, called pitts holes, but the latenefs of the evening 
 prevented me from defcending to vifit them. Ride throuo-h the 
 village of Herrington, pafs over a very naked barren country, and 
 have from fome parts of this evening's journey a full view of the 
 ifle of Man, appearing high and mountanous. Reach 
 Workington.. Workington ; the place where the imprudent Mary Stuart: 
 landed, after her flight from Dundrannan, in Galloway, creduloufly 
 milling to the protedion of the infidious Elizabeth. The town 
 extends from the caftle, the feat of Mr. Curwen, to the fea : it 
 confifts of two clutters, one the more antient near the caftle, the 
 other nearer the church and pier -, and both contain about four or 
 five thoufand inhabitants. They fubfift by the coal trade, which 
 is here confiderable. The Derwent wafhes the fkirts of the town, 
 and difcharges itfelf into the fea about a mile Weft: on each 
 bank near the mouth are piers where the fhips lie, and the coals 
 are conveyed into them from frames occafionally dropping into 
 them from the rail roads. Ninety-feven vefTels of different bur- 
 dens, fome even of two hundred and fifty tuns, belong to this, 
 port. 
 
 Obferve to the South, on an eminence near the fea, a fmall 
 tower, called Holme chapel - } faid to have been built as a watch- 
 tower
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 ft 
 
 tower to mark the motions of the Scots in their naval in- 
 roads. 
 
 Near the town is an iron furnace and foundery -, the ore is 
 brought from Furnefs, and the iron ftone dug near Harrington, 
 A fine water-wheel and its rods, extending near a mile, are very 
 well worth vifiting. 
 
 Keep along the fea-fhore to Mary Port, another new creation, May 27. 
 
 the property of Humphry Senboufe, Efq; and fo named by him in arysPort. 
 
 honor of his lady: the fecond houie was built in only 1750. 
 Now there are above a hundred, peopled by thirteen hundred 
 fouls, ail collected together by the opening of a coal trade on 
 this eftate. For the conveniency of (hipping (there being above 
 feventy of different fizes, from thirty to three hundred tuns bur- 
 den, belonging to the harbour) are wooden piers, with quays, on 
 the river Ellen, where mips lie and receive their lading. Befide 
 the coal trade is fome fkinning bufmefs, and a rope-yard. 
 
 At the South end of the town is an eminence called the Mote- Antiqtjitib*. 
 hill, and on it a great artificial mount, whofe bafe is a hundred 
 and fixty yards round, protected by a deep ditch, almoft fur- 
 rounding it, ceafing only where the fteepnefs of the hill rendered 
 fuch a defence unneceifary : this mount is a little hollowed on the 
 top, has been probed in different places to the depth of four or 
 five feet, but was difcovered to confift of no other materials than 
 the common foil which had been flung out of the fofs. 
 
 On a hill at the North end of the town are the remains of a 
 large Roman ftation fquare, furrounded with double ditches, and 
 furnilhed with four entrances, commanding a view to Scotland, 
 and round the neighboring country. Antiquaries differ about the 
 
 I 2 antient
 
 6o 
 
 OUR 
 
 antient name; one ftyles it olenacum, another virofidum, and Cam* 
 den, volantium, from the wifh inferibed on a beautiful altar founds 
 here, volentii vivas*. It had been a confideruble place, and had 
 its military roads leading from it to Mtmefa to old. Carlijle, and' 
 towards Ambkfide s and has been a perfect magazine of Roman and;- 
 quities. 
 Tumulus. ^ Not far from this ftation is a Tumulus, fingular in its competi- 
 
 tion.;, it is of a rounded form,. and was found, on the feclion madj 
 of it by the late Mr. Senhoufe, to confift of, firft the fod or com- 
 mon turf, then a regular layer of crumbly earth, which at the 
 beginning was thin, encreafing in thicknefs as it reached the top. 
 This was at firft brittle, but foon after, being expofed to the aio 
 acquired a great hardnefs, and a ferruginous look. Beneath this 
 was a bed of ftrong blue clay,, mixed with fern roots, placed 
 on two or three layers of turf, with their gralTy fides together ; 
 and under thefe, as the prefent Mr. Senhoufe informed me, were, 
 found the bones of a heifer and of a colt, with fome wood afhes 
 near them. 
 Netaer^hall. Took the liberty of walking to Nether-ball, formerly Alnehurgh^ 
 
 hall: where. I foon difcovered Mr. Senhoufe to be polTelTed of the 
 politenefs hereditary * in his family towards travellers of curiofity.. 
 He pointed out to me the feveral antiquities that had been longr 
 preferved in his houfe and. gardens; engraven by Camden, Mr! 
 Horfely, and Mr. Gordon; and permitted one of my fervants tor 
 make drawings of others that had been difcovered fince. 
 
 ♦ Vide Camden ioi i, Horfely p. 281, tab. No. lxviii. Cumberland. 
 f Vide Camden, p. ioiz, and Gordon's Itin. boreal loo. 
 
 Among
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 61 
 
 Among f.he latter is the altar found in the rubbifh of a quarry, 
 wh : ch icemed to have been worked by the Romans, in a very 
 exienfive manner : it has no infcription, and appears to have been 
 left unfinished ;. perhaps the workmen were prevented from exe- 
 cuting the whole by the upper part of the hill flipping down 
 over the lower : a circuTucince that ftill frequently happens in 
 quarries worked bener-th the cliffs. On one fide of the altar is 
 a broad dagger, on another a patera. 
 
 A fragment of a ftone, with a boar rudely carved, and the- 
 letters o r d. 
 
 A large wooden pin,: with a curious polygonal head. 
 
 The fpout of a brazen vefTel. Mr. Senhoufe alfo favored me. 
 wkh the. light of fome thin gold plate, found in the fame place : 
 and fhewed me, near his houfe, in Hall-clofe, an entrenchment of. 
 a rectangular form, forty-five yards by thirty-five : probably 
 the. defence of fome antient manfion, fo necefTary in this border 
 county^. 
 
 It gave me great pleafure to review the fculptures engraven in 
 Mr. Horfely\ antiquities, and p.referved in the walls of this place.. 
 The following were fixed in the walls of the houfe, by the an- 
 ceftor of Mr. Senhoufe, coeval with Camden. On No. 6$, an altar, 
 appears Hercules with his club, and in one hand the Hefperian apples 
 that he. had. conveyed 
 
 ab infomni male cuftcdita dracone.- 
 
 what is fingular, is an upright conic bonnet on his head, of the 
 fame kind with that, in which the goddefs, on whom he bellowed- 
 
 the
 
 6z A T O U R 
 
 the fruit is drefled *. On another fide of the altar is a man armed 
 with a helmet and cloathed with a fagum claufum, or doled frock 
 reaching only to his knees. In one hand is a thick pole ; the other 
 reftino- n a wheel, probably denoting his having fucceeded in 
 opening fome great road. 
 
 In No. 70, are feen the two victories fupporting a triumphal 
 crown, the viclori^e augufti. 
 
 The local goddefs Setlocenia, with long flowing hair, with a 
 veflel in her hand, fills the front of one ftone : and an altar inferib- 
 ed to her is lodged in one of the garden walls. 
 
 No. 74 is near the goddefs, a molt rude figure of a cavaiier 
 on his fteed. 
 
 In the fame wall with her altar is No. 64, a monumental mu- 
 tilated infeription, fuppofed in honor of Antoninus Pius. 
 
 No. 71 the next monument notes the premature death of Julia 
 Mamertina, at the age of twenty years and three months. A rude 
 head expreffes the lady and a fetting fun, the funereal fubject. 
 
 A female expreffing modefty with one hand ; the other lifted 
 to her head, ftands beneath an arch, as if about to ■ bathe, and 
 is marked in Horfely, No. 73. 
 
 In a garden houfe is No. 62, an altar to Jupiter, by the firft 
 cohort of the Spanijb, whofe tribune was Marcus Menius Agrippa. 
 
 Another, No. 66, to Mars Militaris, devoted by the firft co- 
 hort of the Belgic Gauls, commanded by Julius Tutor. 
 
 And a third, No. 67, to Jupiter, by Cuius CabaUus Prifcus, a 
 tribune ; but no mention is made of the cohort. 
 
 * Monfaucon, Antiq. 1. tab. civ. f. 7. 
 
 Since
 
 /// 
 
 ob 
 
 JlNTiq riTiE s . 
 
 III.
 
 IN SCOTLAND, £ 3 
 
 Since I vifited this place, Mr. Senhoufe has favored me with an 
 account of other difcoveries, made by the removal of the earth, 
 that covered the reliques of this ftation : the ftreets and foot- ways 
 have been traced paved with ftones from the fhore, or free (tone from 
 the quarries : the laft much worn by ule. Many foundations of 
 houies i the cement ftill very ftrong ; and the plaifter on fome 
 remains of walls, appears to have been painted with what is now 
 pink color ; feveral vaults have been difcovered, one with free- 
 Hone fteps much ufed : fire hearths open before, enclofed with a 
 circular wall behind : from the remains of the fuel it is evident, 
 that the Romans have ufed both wood and pit coal. Bones, and 
 teeth of various animals ; and pieces of horns of flags, many of 
 the latter fawed, have been found here : alfo fhells of oyfters, 
 mufcles, whilks and fnails. Broken earthen-ware and the handle 
 of a large veffel, marked AEL. Fragments of glafs veffels and 
 mirrors ; and two pieces of a painted glafs cup, which evinces the 
 antiquity of that art. 
 
 An entire altar found in the fame fearch, is to be added to the 
 preceding : three of the ffdes are plain : the fourth has a hatchet 
 exactly refembling thoie now in ufe, and a broad knife, or rather 
 cleaver,. with which the victims were cut up. 
 
 But the mod curious* difcovery is a ftone three feet high, the 
 top formed like a pediment, with a neat fcollop fhell cut in the 
 middle. From each fide the pediment falls a ftrait corded mold- 
 ing-, and between thofe, juft beneath the fcollop, is a mutilated 
 figure, the head being deftroyed ; but from the body which is 
 cloathed with the Sagum, and the bucket which it holds in one 
 
 hand
 
 64 A T O G R 
 
 hand by the handle *, it appears to have been a Gaul, the only 
 fculpture of the kind found in our ifland. 
 
 Continue my ride along the coail, enjoying a mod beautiful 
 profpect of the Solway Firth, the It una aftuarium of Ptolemy^ 
 bounded by the mountains of Galloway, from the hill of Crefel, 
 near Dumfries, to the great and the little Rcfs, not remote from 
 Kirkcudbright. 
 
 Keep on the more as far as the village of Allanhy : then turn 
 to the N. Earr, ride over a low barren woodlefs tradt, and difmal 
 moors, feeing on the left <Crefel in Scotland, and on the right 
 Skiddaw, both quite clear ; the lad now appears of an infulting 
 height over its neighbors. Had the weather been mifty it would 
 have had its cap; and probably Crtfel, according to the old pro- 
 verb, would have fympathized : 
 
 If ever Skiddanu wears a cap, 
 Crefel wots full well of that. 
 
 Wigtojc. Dine 2XWtgton, a -fmall town, with fome manufactures of coarfe 
 
 checks. About a mile or two to the right, is old Carlile, fuppofed 
 by Mr. Horfely to have been the olenacum of the notitia. 
 
 From Wigton the country continues very flat and barren, to a 
 fmall diltance of Carlile. Near that city a better cultivation 
 takes place, and the fields often appear covered with linnen ma- 
 nufactures : crofs the river Cauda, that runs through the fuburbs, 
 and enter the city at the Irijh ^ate. 
 
 * Monfaucon Su/>j>J, ill. p. 3 8, tab. xi. 
 
 Carlile
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 Carlile is moft pleafantly fituated ; like Chejier is furrounded Carlilb. 
 with walls, but in very bad repair, and kept very dirty. The caftle 
 is antient, but makes a good appearance at a diftance : The view 
 from it confifts of an extenfive tract of rich meadows, of the river 
 Eden, here forming two branches and infulating the ground : over 
 one is a bridge of four ; over the other one of nine arches. There 
 is befides a profpect of a rich country ; and a diftant view of Cold- 
 fells, Crofs-fells, Skiddaiv, and other mountains. 
 
 The caftle was founded by William Rufus, who reftored the. Castle. 
 
 city, after it had lain two hundred years in ruins by the Danes. 
 Richard III. made fome additions to it; and Henry VIII. built the 
 citadel, an oblong with three round baftions feated on the Welt 
 fide of the town : in the inner gate of the caftle is ftill remaining 
 the old Portcullis; and. here are fhewn the apartments of Mary 
 Queen of Scots, where fne was lodged for fome time after her 
 landing at Workington ; and after being for a little fpace en- 
 tertained with flattering refpec"l, found herfelf priibner to her jealous 
 rival. 
 
 Carlile has two other gates befides the Irifh, viz. the Englijh and 
 the Scotch. The principal ftreet is very fpatious ; in it is a guard- 
 houfe, built by Cromwel, commanding three other ftreets that open 
 into this. 
 
 The cathedral, begun by \ Walter, deputy under William Rufus, is Cathsdra;,. 
 very incomplete, Cromwel having pulled down part in 1649 to build 
 barracks : there remains fome portion that was built in the Saxon 
 mode, with round arches, and vafb maffy round pillars, whofe fhafts 
 are only fourteen feet two inches high, and circumference full {zven- 
 teen and a half: the reft is more modern, faid to have been built 
 
 K by. 
 
 65
 
 66 A T O U R 
 
 by Edward III. who had an apartment to lodge in, in his frequent 
 expeditions into Scotland. The arches in this latter building are 
 fharp pointed, the pillars round and cluttered, and the infide of the 
 arches prettily ornamented. Above are two galleries, but with 
 windows only in the upper ; that in the Eaft end lias a magnificent 
 fimplicity, and the painted glafs an uncommon neatnefs, notwith- 
 flanding there is not a fingle figure in it. 
 
 The choir was not founded till about the year 1354 ;- the taberna- 
 cle work in it is extremely pretty ; but on the ifles on each fide 
 are fome ftrange legendary paintings of the hiftory of St. Cuthbert 
 and St. Auguftine; one reprefents the Saint vifited by an unclean 
 fpirit, who tempts him in a mod indecent manner, as thefc lines 
 import : 
 
 The fpyrit of Fornication to him doth aper ; 
 
 And thus he chafteneth hys body with thorne and with bryer. 
 
 At the Weft: end of the church is a large plain altar tomb called 
 the blue-Jlone : on this the tenants of the dean and chapter by certain 
 tenures were obliged to pay their rents. 
 Priory. There had been only one religious houfe in this city ; a priory of 
 
 black canons founded by Henry I, replaced on the fuppreflion, by a 
 dean and four canons Ocular ; but what the tyrant Henry VIII. had 
 fpared, fuch as the cloifters and other reliques of the priory, fell in 
 after-times victims to fanatic fury ; no remains are to be feen at 
 prefent, except the gateway, and a handfome building called the 
 Fratry, or the lodging-room of the lay brothers, or novices. 
 
 Before this pious foundation, St. Cuthbert in 686 fixed here a con- 
 vent
 
 INSCOTLAND. 6 7 
 
 vent of monks, and a nunnery, overthrown in the general defolation 
 of the place by the Danes. 
 
 But to trace the antiquity of this city with hiftoric regularity, the History. 
 reader mould learn, that after laying afide all fabulous accounts, the 
 Britains called it Caer Lualid, that it was named by Antonine, or the 
 author of his Itinerary Lugovallium, or the city of Lual on the vallum 
 or wall. 
 
 That it was probably a place of note in the feventh century, for 
 Egfrid prefented it to St. Cuthbert with fifteen miles of territory 
 around ; that the Danes entirely deftroyed it in the ninth century, 
 and that it remained in ruins for two hundred years. William Ru- 
 fus, in 1092, in a progrefs he made into thefe parts, was ftruck with 
 the lituation, founded the caflle, rebuilt the town and fortified it as 
 a bulwark againft the Scots : he planted there a large colony from the 
 South, who are laid to be the firft, who introduced tillage in that 
 part of the North. 
 
 Henry I, in 1122, gave a fum of money to the .city, and ordered 
 fome additional fortifications. Stephen yielded it to David, King o£ 
 Scotland. After the recovery into the hands of the EngliJJj, it under- 
 went a cruel fiege by William the Lion, in 11 73 , and was again be- 
 fieged by Robert Bruce, in 13 15 ; and in the reign of Richard II. was 
 almoft entirely deftroyed by fire. The greater events from that 
 period are unknown to me, till its reddition to the rebels in «*"45, 
 on November 16th, when its weaknefs made it untenable, even had it 
 not been feized with the epidemic panic of the times. It was retaken 
 by the Duke of Cumberland, on the 30th of December following, and 
 the fmall felf-devoted garrifon madeprifoners on terms thatpreierved 
 
 K 2 them
 
 S.6 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 them (without the fhadow of impeachment of his Highnefs's word) 
 for future juflice. 
 
 The town at prefent confifts of two parifhes, St. Cuthberfs and 
 the cathedral, and contains about four thoufand inhabitants ; is 
 handfomely built, and kept very neat. Here is a conliderable 
 manufacture of printed linens and coarfe checks, which bring in 
 near 3000 1. per annum in duties to the crown. It is noted for a 
 great manufacture of whips, which. employs numbers of children j 
 here are alio made mod excellent fi fh- hooks •, but I was told that 
 the mounting them with flies is an art the inhabitants of Langholm 
 are celebrated for. 
 -May. 28. Saw > at Mr ' Bernard Burton's, a pleafing fight of twelve little in- 
 
 duftrious . girls fpinning at once at a horizontal wheel, which fet 
 twelve bobbins in motion •, yet fo contrived that mould any acci- 
 dent happen to one, the motion of that might be flopped without any 
 impediment to the others. 
 
 At Mxs. Cud's I was favored with the fight of a fine head of 
 father Huddlejlon, in black, with a large band and long grey hair, 
 with an uplifted crucifix in his hand, probably taken in the atti- 
 tude in which he lulled the foul of the departing profligate 
 Charles II. 
 
 Crofs the little river Petrel, the third that bounds the city, and at 
 
 Warwick about .three miles Halt, fee Warwick, or JVarthwick church, remark- 
 
 church. able for its tribune or rounded Eait end, with thirteen narrow niches, 
 
 ten feet eight high, and fjventeen inches broad, reaching almoft to 
 
 the around, and the top of each arched ; in two or three is a frnall 
 
 window. The whole church is built with good cut-ftone -, the 
 
 length
 
 w 
 
 oo 
 
 ! :c:: chtj 
 
 ffERJEJ .LLSo 
 
 
 .
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 length is feventy feet, but it once extended above one and twenty 
 feet farther Weft i there being ftill at that end a good rounded 
 arch, now rilled up. 
 
 This church is of great antiquity, but the date of the founda- 
 tion unknown. It was granted in the time of William the con- 
 queror * to the abby of St. Mary's, in York, and then mention'd 
 as a chapel. 
 
 Beneath it is a handfome bridge of three arches over the Eden, a 
 beautiful river. Ride for two miles over a rich and well cultivated 
 tract, to Corbie caftle, now a modern houfe, feated on an eminence 
 above the river, which runs through a deep and finely wooded glen ; 
 that part next the houfe judicioufly planned and laid out in walks : 
 in one of them is the votive altar engraven in Mr. Gordon's Itinerary, 
 tab. 43, with tolerable exaftnels, except on the top, for the hollow 
 is triangular, not round. 
 
 The fight from this walk of the celebrated cells, and the arch of 
 the antient priory, were fo tempting that I could not refift crofling 
 the river to pay a vifit to thofe curious remains. The laft is the 
 gateway of the religious houfe otWetherel, with its fine elliptic arch : 
 the houfe was once a cell to the abby of St. Mary, in York, given by 
 Ranulph de Me/chines, Earl of Carlile, and maintained a prior and 
 eight monks -f-. 
 
 A little farther, in the midft of a vaft precipice, environ'd with 
 woods, are cut, with much labor, ibme deep cells in the live rock : 
 the front ,and entrance (the laft is on one fide) are made of fine cut- 
 ftonej in the front are three windows, and a fire-place: the cells 
 
 69 
 
 Corbie castle. 
 
 Wetherel 
 
 CELLS. 
 
 DugdaWs Monafi. I, 397. 
 
 t Ibid. 389. 
 
 are
 
 yo 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 are three in number, divided by partitions of the native rock, four 
 feet three inches thick : each is twelve feet eight inches deep, and 
 about nine feet fix wide in the lower part, where they are more ex- 
 tenfive than in their beginning : before them, from the door to the 
 end, is a fort of gallery twenty-three feet and a half long, bounded 
 by the front, which hangs at an awful height above the Eden. 
 There are marks of bolts, bars and other fecurities in the windows 
 and door •, and veftiges, which fhew that there had been doors to the 
 cells. 
 
 Thefe are called Conftantine's cells, but more commonly the fafe- 
 guard, being luppofed to have been the retreat of the monks of the 
 neighboring priory, during the inroads of the Scots ; no one who 
 fees them will doubt their fecurity, being approachable only by a 
 mod horrible path, amidft woods that grow rather out of precipices 
 than (lopes, impending over the far fubjacent river ; and to encreafe 
 the difficulty, the door is placed at no fmall height from this only 
 accefs, fo that probably the monks afcended by a ladder, which they 
 might draw up to fecure their retreat. 
 
 I fearched without fuccefs for the infcription on the fame rock, a 
 little higher up the river. The words, as preferved in the Archaelo- 
 gia *, are 
 
 Maxiraus fcripfit 
 Le xx vv cond : cafofius. 
 
 The firft line is faid to be a yard diftant from the other, and 
 near, is a coarfe figure of a deer. The meaning is too dark to be 
 explained. 
 
 • I. 86. 
 
 Return
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 71 
 
 Return to Corbie ; and find in the houfe an excellent picture of a Pictures at 
 mufician playing on a bafe-viol -, the work of a Spanijh matter, Corbie. 
 
 part of the plunder of Vigo. A large piece of the emperor CharlesV. 
 and his emprefs ; he fitting with a ftern look, as if reprovino- 
 her, and alluding to a cafket on a table before them. She 
 Hands, and has in her countenance a mixture of obftinacy and 
 fear. 
 
 On the ftair cafe is a full length of Lord William Howard, third 
 fon of the Duke of Norfolk, known in thele parts by the name of bald 
 Willy. He lived in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and was the terror 
 of the Mofs troopers, ruling with a rod of iron, but by his neceffary 
 feverity, civilized the country. 
 
 There are no traces of the old cattle. The manor belonging to it Owners of 
 was granted by Henry II. to Hubert de Vallibus, who configned it to Corbie. 
 
 William de Odard lord of Corbie. In the 31 ft of Edw. I. it was held 
 by Thomas de Richemoant ; from him, came to Sir Andrew de Harcla, 
 the unfortunate Earl of Carlile, executed in the time of Edw. II. and 
 on his attainder, to Sir Richard de Salkeld : from his heirs to lord 
 William Howard, then of Naworth, who fettled it upon his fecond fon, 
 in whofe line it ftill continues. 
 
 Returned to Carlile, and continue there till the 30th. Crofs the jyj Ay . 0t 
 
 Eden, that flows about ten miles below into the Solway Firth. Pais 
 over near the village of Stanwick, a mile from Carlile. The fite of 
 the Pitts, or more properly Adrian's or Severus's wall, begun by the p ICTS wall. 
 ftrft emperor, and completed by the lad, who may with more juftice 
 be faid to have built a wall of (tone, near the place, where Adrian 
 had made his of turf. For that reafon the Britains ftyled it GuaU 
 fever, Gal-fever, and Mur-fever. But at prefent not a trace is to be 
 
 difcovered
 
 72 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 discovered in thefe parts, except a few foundations, now covered 
 with earth, to be feen in a field called Wall-know. From thence iL 
 paffes behind Stan-wick to Hijfopholm bank, an eminence above the. 
 river ; on which are veftiges of fome dikes defcribing a fmall fquare, 
 the fite of a fort to defend the pals ; for the wall reached to the edge of 
 the water, was continued on the oppofite fide, over Soceres meadow, 
 and extended ten or twelve miles farther, till it terminated at Bowl- 
 ne/Sy on the Solway firth. Adrian's wall, or rather rampart, was made 
 on the N. fide of the wall, and is vifible in fome places, but ceafes 
 at or near Bmgh, the Axelodunum of the Notitia. Probably this was 
 aitation for cavalry, for near Hijfop bank is a ftupendous number of 
 horfes bones, expofed by the falling of the cliff. 
 Arthuret. Crofs the Leven y and ride through the village of Arthur et : In the 
 
 church-yard is a rude crofs, with a pierced capital, forming the 
 exact figure of the crofs of the. knights of Malta, and it is probable, 
 it was erected by one of that order. In. the fame ground was in- 
 terred the remains of poor Archy Armftrong, jefter, or fool to Ch. I. 
 and by accident, fuitable to his profeffion,. the. day of his funeral was 
 the firft of April. Archy had long fhot his bolt with great applaufe, 
 till it fell unfortunately upon the prelate Laud*, who, with a pride 
 and weaknefs beneath his rank and character, procured an order of 
 council, the king prefent, for the degrading .the fool, by pulling his 
 motly coat over his head, for difcharging him of the king's fervice, 
 and banifhing him the court. Near the village are fome high and 
 
 * When the news arrived at court of the tumults in Scotland, occafioned by the 
 attempt to introduce the liturgy (a project of Laud) Arcby unluckily met with the 
 .Archbifhop, and had the preemption to afk his Grace, Who is fool now? 
 
 irregular
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 
 
 irregular fandy eminences ; probably natural, notwithstanding a 
 contrary opinion has been held, becaufe fome coins and an urn have 
 been found in them. 
 
 Reach Netherby, the feat of the Rev. Mr. Graham, placed on a Netherby. 
 rifing ground, warned by the EJk, and commanding an extenfive 
 view ; more pleafing to Mr. Graham, as he fees from it a creation 
 of his own •, lands that eighteen years ago were in a ftate of nature ; 
 the people idle and bad, ftill retaining a fmack of the feudal man- 
 ners : fcarce a hedge to be feen : and a total ignorance prevaled 
 of even coal and lime. His improving fpirit foon wrought a great 
 change in thefe parts : his example inililled into the inhabitants an 
 ip.clination to induftry : and they foon found the difference between 
 floth and its concomitants, dirt and beggary, and a plenty that a 
 right application of the arts of hufbandry brought among them. 
 They lay in the midft of a rich country, yet ftarved in it ; but in a 
 fmall time they found, that inftead of a produce that hardly fup- 
 ported themfelves, they could raiie even fupplies for their neighbors: 
 that much of their land was fo kindly as to bear corn for many years 
 fucceffively without help of manure, and for the more ungrateful 
 foils, that there were lime-ftones to be had, and coal to burn them. 
 The wild tract foon appeared in form of verdant meadows or fruit- 
 ful corn fields : from the firft, they were foon able to fend to 
 diftant places cattle and butter : and their dairies enabled them 
 to fupport a numerous herd of hogs, and carry on a confiderable 
 traffick in bacon : their arable lands, a commerce as far as Lanca- 
 shire in corn. 
 
 A tract diflinguifhed for its fertility and beauty, ran in form 
 of a valley for fome fpace in view of Netherby : it has been finely 
 
 L reclamed 
 
 7*
 
 n 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 reclamed from its original ftate, prettily divided, well planted 
 with hedges, and well peopled : the ground originally not worth 
 fixpence an acre, was improved to the value of thirty fhillings : 
 a tract completely improved in all refpects, except in houfes, the 
 antient clay-dabbed habitations ftill exifting. I faw it in that 
 fituation in the year 1769 : at this time a melancholy extent of 
 black turbery, the eruption of Solway mofs, having in a few days 
 covered grafs and corn ; leveled the boundaries of almoft every 
 farm ; deftroyed mod of the houfes, and driven the poor inhabi- 
 tants to the utmoft diftrefs, till they found (which was not long) 
 from their landlord every relief that a humane mind could fuggeft. 
 Happily his fortune favored his inclination to do good : for the in- 
 ftant lofs of four hundred pounds a year could prove no check to 
 his benevolence. 
 
 Eruption or Qn vifiting the place from whence this difafter had flowed, it was 
 
 Solway moss. , - , 
 
 apparently a natural phenomenon, without any thing wonderful or 
 
 unprecedented. Pelling mofs, near Garfiang, had made the fame fort 
 
 of eruption in the prefent century •, and Chat-mofs, between Man- 
 
 chefier and Warrington, in the time of Henry VIII. as Leland expreffes 
 
 it, ' brad up within a mile of Morley-haul, and deftroied much 
 
 c grounde with mofle thereabout, and deftroid much frefch water 
 
 fifhche thereabout, firft corrupting with (linking water Glafe- 
 
 ' brooke, and fo Glafebrooke carried ftinking water and mofTe into 
 
 « Merfey water, and Merfey corruptid carried the roulling mofTe, part 
 
 * to the mores of Wales, part to the ifle of Man, and fum into Ire- 
 
 1 land; and in the very top of Chately more, where the mofTe was hyeft 
 
 4 and brake, is now a fair plaine valley as was in tymes parte, and a 
 
 ' rylle runnith hit, and peaces of fmaul trees be found in the bottom.' 
 
 Solway
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 Solway Mofs confifts of fixteen hundred acres ; lies fome height 
 •above the cultivated tract, and feems to have been nothing but a 
 collection of thin peaty mud : the furface itfelf was always fo near 
 the ftate of a quagmire, that in moft places it was unfafe for any 
 thing heavier than a fportfman to venture on, even in the dried 
 fummer. 
 
 The fhell or cruft that kept this liquid within bounds, neareft to 
 the valley, was at firft of fufricient ftrength to contain it : but by 
 the imprudence of the peat-diggers, who were continually working 
 on that fide, at length became fo weakened, as not longer to be able 
 to refill the weight prefling on it : To this may be added, the fluidity 
 of the mofs was greatly increafed by three days rain of unufual vio- 
 lence, which preceded the eruption ; and extended itfelf in a line as 
 far as Newcajik : took in part of Durham, and a fmall portion of 
 Torkjhire, running in a parallel line of about equal breadth ; both 
 fides of which, N. and South, experienced an uncommon drought. 
 It is fingular that the fall of Newcajik bridge and this accident hap- 
 pened within a night of each other. 
 
 Late in the night of the 17th of November, of the laft year, a 
 farmer, who lived neareft the mofs, was alarmed with an unufual 
 noife. The cruft had at once given way, and the black deluge was 
 rolling towards his houfe, when he was gone out with a lantern to 
 fee the caufe of his fright : he faw the ftream approach him ; and 
 firft thought that it was his dunghill, that by fome fupernaturai 
 caufe, had been fet in motion ; but foon difcovering the danger, he 
 gave notice to his neighbors with all expedition : but others received 
 no other advice but what this Stygian tide gave them : fome by its 
 noife, many by its entrance into their houfes, and I have been afTured 
 
 L 2 that 
 
 75
 
 7 6 A T O U R 
 
 that fome were furprized with it even in their beds : thefe paft a 
 horrible night, remaining totally ignorant of their fate, and thecaule 
 of the calamity, till the morning, when their neighbors, with diffi- 
 culty, got them out through the roof. About three hundred acres- 
 of mofs were thus difcharged, and above four hundred of land co- 
 vered : the houfes either overthrown or filled to their roofs ; and the. 
 hedo-es- overwhelmed ; but providentially not a human life loft : 
 feveral cattle were fuffocated \ and thofe which were houfed had a; 
 very fmall chance of efcaping. The cafe of a cow is fo fingular as. 
 to deferve mention. She was the only one out of eight, in the fame, 
 cow-houfe, that was faved, after having ftood fixty hours up to the. 
 neck in mud and water : when ftie was relieved, me did not refufe to> 
 eat, but would not tafte water : nor could even look at it without 
 mewing manifeft figns of horror. 
 
 The eruption burft from the place of its difcharge, like a cataract 
 of thick ink •, and continued in a ftream of the fame appearance, in- 
 termixed with great fragments of peat, with their heathy furface •,: 
 then flowed like a tide charged with pieces of wreck, filling the 
 whole valley, running up every little opening, and on its retreat, 
 leaving upon the ihore tremendous heaps of turf, memorials of the 
 heio-ht this dark torrent arrived at. The farther it flowed,, the more 
 room it had to expand, leffening in depth,, till it mixed its ftream 
 with that of the EJk. 
 
 The furface of the njofs received a confiderable change : what 
 was before a plain, now funk in the form of a vaft bafon, and the lofs 
 of the contents fo lowered the furface as to give to Nethcrby a new. 
 view of land and trees unfeen before. 
 
 Near this mofs was the fhameful reddition in 1542, of the Scotch > 
 
 army,.
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 77 
 
 army, under the command of Oliver Sinclair, minion of James V. (to Battle op 
 
 Sir Thomas Wharton, warden of the marches). The nobility, defpe- Solway M0SS * 
 
 rate with rage and pride, when they heard that favorite proclamed 
 
 general, preferred an immediate furrender to a handful of enemies, 
 
 rather than fight for a King who treated them with fuch contempt. 
 
 The Engli/b commander obtained a bloodlefs victory : the whole 
 
 Scotch army was taken, or difperfed, and a few fugitives perifhed in 
 
 this very mofs : as a confirmation it is faid, that a few years ago 
 
 fome peat-diggers difcovered in it. the fkeletons of a trooper and his' 
 
 horfe in complete armour. 
 
 In my return vifit the antient border-houfe at Kirk-andrews, oppo- 
 fite to Netherby : it confifts of only a fquare tower, with a ground 
 floor, and two apartments above, one over the other : in the firft 
 floor it was ufual to keep the cattle •, in the two lad was lodged the 
 family. In thofe very unhappy times, every one was obliged to keep 
 guard againfb perhaps his neighbor; and fometimes to fhut them- 
 felves up for days together, without any opportunity of tailing the 
 frefh air, but from the battlemented top of their caftelet. Their 
 windows were very fmall ; their door of iron. If the robbers at- 
 tempted to break it open, they were annoyed from above by the 
 flinging of great ftones, or by deluges of fcalding water *. 
 
 As late as the reign of our James I. watches were kept along the Border watches.. 
 whole border, and at every ford by day and by night : fetters, 
 watchers, fearchers of the watchers, and overfeers of the watchers 
 were appointed. Befides thefe cautions, the inhabitants of the 
 marches were obliged to keep fuch a number of Jlough dogs, or 
 
 * Life of Lord Keeper Guildford, p. 138* 
 
 what
 
 7 8 
 
 OUR 
 
 Slough-dogs, what we call blood-hounds : for example, ' in thefe parts, beyond 
 1 the Eft, by the inhabitants there were to be kept above the foot 
 
 * of Sark, i dog. Item, by the inhabitants of the infyde of Eft, 
 ' to Richmond Cluch, to be kept at the Moot, i dog. Item, by 
 
 * the. inhabitants of the parifli of Arthur et, above Richmond 
 ' Clugh, to be kept at the Barley -head, i dog;. .and fo on through- 
 
 * out the border.' The chief officers, bailiffs and conftables 
 throughout the diftrict being directed to fee that the inhabitants 
 kept their quota of dogs, and paid their contributions for their 
 maintenance. Perfons who were aggrieved, or had loft any thing, 
 were allowed to purfue the hot trode with hound and horn, with 
 hue and cry, and all other accuftomed manner of hot purfuit*. 
 
 Moss-troopers. The neceffity of all this was very ftrong ; for before the ac- 
 ceffion of James I. to thefe kingdoms, the borders of both were 
 in perpetual feuds : after that happy event, thofe that lived by 
 hoftile excurfions, took to pillaging their neighbors; and about 
 that period got the name of mofs-trooprs, from their living in the 
 moffes of the country. 
 
 They were the terror of the limits of both kingdoms ; at one 
 time amounted to fome thoufands, but by the feverity of the 
 laws, and the activity of Lord William Howard, were at length 
 extirpated. The life and manners of one of the plundering chief- 
 GiordieBourne, tains is well exemplified by the confeflion of Giordie Bourne, a 
 noted thief, who fuffered when Robert Cary, Earl of Mcnmouth, 
 was warden of one of thefe marches : he fairly acknowleged, 
 
 • Nicholfon's border laws, p. 127. In the Appendix, is to be feen an order for 
 the fecurity of the borders. 
 
 4 That
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 79 
 
 * That he had lived long enough to do fo many villainies as he 
 
 * had done ; that he had layne with above forty mens wives, what 
 
 * in England^ what in Scotland-, that he had killed leven Englijh- 
 6 men with his owne handes, cruelly murthering them ; that he 
 " had fpent his whole time in whooring, drinking, Healing, and 
 
 * taking deep revenge for flight offences *.* 
 Return to Netherby. This houfe is placed on the fite of a 
 
 Roman flation, the caftra exploratorum of Antoninus, and was well 
 fituated for commanding an extenfive view around. By fignifies 
 a habitation ; thus, there are three camps or ftations, with this 
 termination, not very remote from one another, Netherby, Mid- 
 dleby, and Overby. The firft, like Ellenborough, has been a rich 
 fund of curiofities for the amufement of antiquaries : at prefent 
 the ground they were difcovered in is covered with a good houfe, 
 and ufeful improvements ; yet not long before Leland's time c ther 
 *' hath bene marvelus buyldings, as appere by minus walles, and 
 
 * men alyve have fene rynges and ftaples yn the walles as yt had 
 
 * bene ftayes or holdes for fhyppes -J- .' There is a tradition that an 
 anchor had been found not remote from Netherby, perhaps under 
 the high land at Arthuret, i. e. Arthur's head, beneath which it 
 appears as if the tide had once flowed. 
 
 Every thing has been found here that denotes it to have been a Antiquities at 
 fixed refldence of the Romans ; a fine Hypocauji, or bath was dif- 
 covered a few years ago, and the burial place, now a fhrubbery, 
 was pointed out to me. The various altars, infcriptfons, utenfils, 
 
 * Cory's memoirs, 2d. ed. p. 123; 
 '\ Leland's Itin. vii, p. 56. 3d ed. 
 
 and 
 
 Netherby,
 
 8o A T O U R 
 
 end every other antiquity collected on the fpot, are carefully pre* 
 ferved, and lodged in the green houfe, with fome others collected 
 in different parts of the country, which gave me an opportunity 
 of forming the following catalogue, illustrated with fome figures 
 for the amufement of thofe who are fond of this ftudy. 
 
 i. The infeription which preierves the memory of the cohort, 
 lieutenant and proprietor, who founded the Bafilica Equejiris equi- 
 tata exercitatoria at this place. This was a fort of public riding 
 fchool, for exercifing the cavalry and infantry, who were to ferve 
 mixed with them. To this explication of Doctor Taylor, Ph. 
 Tranf. vol. i. iii. may be added this fhrewd remark of that gentle- 
 man, that the -dedication of this edifice to the emperor Marcus Aure- 
 Hus Severus Alexander, by thefe words, 
 
 Devota numini Majeftatique ejus. 
 
 brings under fufpicion the opinion of the emperor's inclination to 
 chriftianky, and averfion to thofe idolatrous compliments, for ac- 
 cording to Lampridius, Dominum fe appellari vetuit. 
 II. An Altar about three feet high, inferibed, 
 
 Deo fanfto Cocidio Paternus Maternus Tribonus 
 Coh. i. Nervane ex evocato Palatine V. S. L. M. 
 
 This feems to be devoted to the local deity, Cocidius, by fome 
 veteran, who had been difcharged, and promoted. Mr. Horfelj, 
 No. XVII. Cumberland, preferves a fragment inferibed to this 
 deity, by Cohors prima AElia Dacorum* 
 
 III. The
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 8l 
 
 III. The altar with the Greek infcription, found at Corbridge, in 
 Northumberland, engraven in Archaelogia II. One one fide is a Pa- 
 tera \ on the other, a molt elegant prafericulum. The infcription 
 feems no more than this, yen fee me an altar (dedicated) to Afiarte; 
 Pulcher erefted it. The per was probably a Syrian, who ferv- 
 ing in the Roman army, affumed a Roman name : at left fuch is the 
 opinion of the gentleman I confuited. 
 
 IV. The altar found in one of the rooms in the Hypocauft, at 
 Netherby, addreffed, 
 
 Dese fanctae Fortune confervatrici Marcus Aurelius Salvius 
 Tribunus, Coh. i. ael. Hifpanorum oo Eq. V. S. L. M. It is 
 to be obferved, that this perfon's name is in the infcription on the 
 Bafilica. 
 
 V. A fmall altar Deo Veteri fantto . V. S. L. M. 
 
 Mr. Horfely preferves fome inferiptions to Vitires, a local deity : 
 perhaps the fculptor may have in this place inferted the two e's 
 inllead of the i. i. 
 
 VI. The altar preferved by Mr. Gordon, inferibed Deo Mo- 
 gonti vitires. Flavian fecund. V. S. L. M. 
 
 VIL Another, a fragment Deo Belatuca ... or to Belatu- 
 cadrus, a provincial name for Mars, 
 
 VIII. The altar * found near Cambeck, and transferred to Ne- 
 therby, inferibed .... B. V. omnium gentium templum olim 
 vetuftate conlabfum Jul. Pitianus. P. P. reftituit. 
 
 IX. The firft fculpture that merits notice is that figured by Mr. 
 
 * None of the fealtars or ftones have any remarkable fculpture j therefore no part 
 of them merit engraving, except the pretty veflel on No.lll* 
 
 M Horfely,
 
 3s 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 Horfily, No. 49, Cumberland, and by Mr. Gordon, tab. 37 : they 
 both judly ftyle it the belt of the Roman work of this nature in. 
 Britain; and the fir ft properly makes it a genius, and probably 
 that of the Emperor. The figure is erect, 3 f. 3 inches high,, 
 holding in one hand a patera over an altar •, in the other a cornu* 
 ccpia\ the laft frequently obferved both in fculpture and in medals. 
 On his head is a mural crown: each of theie particulars are to be 
 met with in Monfaucon, torn, i. part. ii. in the figures of tab. cc. 
 The whole length of the ftone is 7 f. 4 inches : in the lower part 
 is a long perpendicular groove, with another fhort and tranfverfe 
 near the middle : in this, I conjecture might have been fixed an iron, 
 forming part of the ftand of a lamp, which was cuftomarily 
 placed burning before the ftatues of deities. 
 
 X. A figure in a dole drels, not unlike a carter's frock, or 
 what Monfaucon calls fagum claufum, reaching down to the heels: 
 on one fide is a boar, on the other a wheel, and beneath that an 
 altar : in the left hand of the figure is part of a cornucopia. The 
 figure is evidently Gaulifh, but the hiftory is obfcure : the boar is 
 an emblem of Caledonia : the wheel a known type of Fortune : It 
 is alfo a concomitant of l^uifco, a Saxon or northern deity. As 
 the Roman armies in this kingdom were latterly compofed of dif- 
 ferent GauUJlj and foreign nations, their deities were introduced, and 
 intermixed with thofe of the Romans, a molt fuperftitious people, 
 ready and accuftomed to adopt thole of every country. We 
 need not be furprized at the variety of figures found in this place, 
 where it is evident that liberty of confcience was allowed by there 
 having been fo near a temple of evcty nation, a latitudinarian Ean^ 
 theon. 
 
 XI. Is
 
 /•/ 
 
 73 
 
 in. 
 
 AlTTIQ VI TJJE S ,
 
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 XL Is a fecond figure refembling the former, only that a fort 
 of clofe fhort mantle covers the moulders and breaft. It has the 
 wheel, altar and cornucopia ; but beneath the feet appear the cru- 
 pezia, fuch as are beneath thofe of the celebrated ftatue of the 
 dancing Fawn. 
 
 XII. Is another figure, in a clofe fagum or faic. By it is a vef- 
 fel, Handing on two long fupports j the figure feems about to 
 fling in what it holds in the right hand : the other leans on what 
 refembles an ear of corn. 
 
 XIII. Is a figure fitting in a chair, cloathed in garments 
 much plaited and folded : on the lap are apples or fruits. Neha- 
 lennia, a Zeland goddefs, is reprefented in this attitude *, and her 
 lap thus filled : the habit differs ; but this deity might have been 
 adopted by another nation, who drelTed her according to its own 
 mode. 
 
 XIV. Is a curious groupe of three figures, Handing with their 
 backs to a long feat, with elbows. They are habited in a loofe 
 Sate, reaching but little below the knees : that in the middle dif- 
 tinguifhed by a pointed flap, and a vefM filled whether with fruit 
 or corn is not very evident. Thele may perhaps be the De<e Ma- 
 tres of the barbarous nations, and introduced here by feme of 
 the German levies ; there having been found in Britain three altars 
 dedicated to them by the Tungrian cohort. They were local dei- 
 ties, protedtrefTes of certain towns or villages among -f- the Gauls 
 and Germans, by whom they were tranfported into Britain; which 
 is acknowleged in two inferiptions, where they are called tranf- 
 
 * Monfaucon II, pt. II, p. 443. f Archtflogia, vol. III. 
 
 M 2 marine. 
 
 8*
 
 * 4 A T O U R 
 
 marine. If they were rural deities the contents of the cup is very 
 apt. I may remark that the antients in general were fond of the 
 number Three •, and the Gauls * are known to groupe their dei- 
 ties very frequently in triplets : a number the molt complete, as 
 it regards, beginning, middle, and end. 
 
 XV. Another groupe of three very fingular figures j each with a 
 pointed hood, a fort of breaft-plate hanging loofely, and their 
 feet and legs cloathed. In the right hand of each is a ftone. 
 
 Thefe feem to have been a rude fpecies of foldiery, who fought 
 with ftones ; but whether Briti/Jo, or foreign barbarians, auxiliary 
 to the Romans, is not certain. 
 
 Among the antiquities of other kinds is a very beautiful fmall 
 figure of a female in brafs, whofe drefs folds with peculiar ele- 
 gance. By the rudder in her hand, it feems to have been a For- 
 tune. 
 
 A fmall brazen Hermes or 'Terminus : as it is ornamented with 
 feftoons and fruit, it probably was deftined to guard the limits of 
 orchards or gardens. 
 
 Two bralTes : one with the head of a female, with a large tur- 
 band-like head-drefs. The other is the head of Jupiter. 
 
 A fmall brafs cafe, probably defigned for a thin medal : a filver 
 brotche : a fmall pair of pincers, for the purpofe of extirpating 
 hairs •, a practice much in ufe among the Romans. 
 
 A moil elegant urn, found full of afhes : a ftrong veffel of 
 mixed metal, feemingly a mortar : a glafs bead, the ovum angui- 
 num of the Romans, and Glain naidr of the Britons: this has a 
 
 * Gordon, tab. xxxvi. xxxix. & Ix. 
 
 wire
 
 STRENGTH. 
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 85 
 
 wire ring through the orifice, which gives reafon to fufpect that 
 
 they were ftxung together like beads. 
 
 The numbers X. XI. XIII. and XIV. are engraven in the righ- 
 to D 
 
 teenth plate of the quarto edition of the Tour ot 1769. T.e re- 
 mainder in the Hid. Vlth. and Vllth. of this volume. 
 
 Take a ride to LiddeFs Strength, or the Mote. A flrong en- June u 
 
 trenchment two mi>es S. W. ot Netherby, on a deep and lofty 
 clay cliff, above the river L?'ddel, commanding a vaft extent of 
 view : has at one end a very high mount, from whence the country Lidd l's 
 
 might be explored to very great advantage : in the middle is the 
 foundation of a fquare building, perhaps the pratorium t This 
 place is fmall, rather of a. circular form, ftrongiy entrenched on 
 the weak fide ; has before it a fort of half moon, with a vaft fofs 
 and dike as a fecurity. From this place to Netherby is the veftige 
 of a road. That this fortrefs had been originally Roman is proba- 
 ble, but fince their time has been applied to the fame ufe by other 
 warders. ' It was, fays Leland, the moted place of a gentilman 
 
 cawled Syr Water Seleby, the which was killyd there and the place 
 ' deftroyed yn King Edward the thyrde when the Scottes whent to 
 
 Dyrbam*.' 
 
 It was taken by ftorm by David the lid. The Governor, Sir 
 Walter, would have compounded for his life by raniome, but the 
 tyrant, after caufing his two fons to be ffrangled before his face, 
 ordered the head of the father, diffracted v/ith grief, to be ffruck 
 offf. 
 
 Defcend the hill, and croiTing the Liddel, enter 
 
 * Ulandltin, VII. 55. f Stew* j Chronicle* 243. 
 
 SCOT-
 
 £6 A T O U R 
 
 SCOTLAND, 
 
 in Liddefdale, a portion of the county of Dumfries : a mod fer- 
 tile and well-cultivated tract of low arable and pafture land. Keep 
 
 Penton-lins. by the river fide for three miles farther to Penton-lins, where is a 
 molt wild but pi&urefque fcene of the river, rapidly flowing 
 along rude rocks, bounded by cliffs, cloathed on each fide by 
 trees. The bottom the water rolls over affumes various forms ; 
 but the moft Angular are beds of flone regularly quadrangular, 
 and divided by a narrow vacant fpace from each other, refembling 
 immenfe mafles of Ludi Helmontii, with their fepta loft. Below 
 thefe, the rocks approach each other, leaving only a deep and 
 narrow channel, with a pretty wooden alpine bridge over a depth 
 of furious water, black and terrible to the fight. The fides of 
 the rock are ftrangely perforated with great and circular hollows, 
 like pots ; the work of the vortiginous motion of the water in 
 great floods. 
 
 A farmer I met with here told me, that a pebble, naturally perfo- 
 rated, was an infallible cure, hung over a horfe that was hag-ridden, 
 or troubled with nocturnal fweats. 
 
 Cannonsby. Return and pafs through the parifh of Cannon/by, a fmall fer- 
 
 tile plain, watered by the Efk ; where fome canons regular of St. 
 Augujline had pitched their piory at left before the year 1296, 
 when William, prior of the convent, fwore allegiance to Edward 
 I*. The parifh is very populous, containing above two thoufand 
 fouls. Much coal and lime-ftone is found here. 
 
 * Keittfi Scotch bijkop's, 240. 
 
 Moft
 
 IK SCOTLAND. 
 
 Mod. part of the houfes are built with clay : the perfon who has 
 building in view, prepares the materials, then fummons his neigh- 
 bors on a fixed day, who come furnifhed with victuals at their 
 own expence, fet chearfully to work, and complete the edifice 
 before night. 
 
 Afcend a bank on the fouth fide of this valley, to a vaft heio-ht 
 above it : the fcenery is great and enchanting : on one fide is a 
 view of the river EJk, far beneath, running through a rocky 
 channel, and bounded by immenfe precipices; in various places 
 fuddenly deepening to a vaft profundity ; while in other parts it 
 glides over a bottom covered with moffes, or colored ftones, that 
 reflect through the pure water teints glaucous, green, or fappha- 
 rine : thefe various views are in molt places fully open to fight •, 
 in others fuffer a partial interruption from the trees, that cloath 
 the fteep bank, or moot out from the brinks and fifTures of the 
 precipices ; the trees are in general oak, but often intermixed with 
 the waving boughs of the weeping birch. 
 
 Two precipices are particularly diftinguifhed : one called Car- Car-sidel 
 Jtdel : the other Gilnocbie's garden: the laft is faid to have been 
 the retreat of a celebrated outlaw •, but originally had evidently 
 been a fmall Britiflj fortrefs, guarded on one fide by the fteeps of 
 the precipice, on the other by a deep entrenchment. 
 
 The ride was extremely diverfified through thick woods, or 
 fmall thickets, with fudden tranfitions from the fhade into rich 
 and well hufbanded fields, bounded on every fide with woods j 
 with views of other woods ftill rifing beyond. No wonder then 
 that the inhabitants of thefe parts yet believe the fairies revel in 
 thefe delightful fcenes. 
 
 Crofs^ 
 
 8/
 
 88 A T O U R 
 
 Crofs the £/£, through a ford with a bottom of folic! rock ; 
 having on one fide the water precipitating itfelf down a precipice 
 formino- a fmall cataract, which would afford a fcene not the molt 
 agreeable to a timid mind. The water too was of r.he moft cry- 
 ftalline, or colorlefs clearnefs, no ftream I have ever {een being 
 comparable •, fo that perfons who ford this river are often led into 
 diftreffes, by being deceived as to its depth, for the great tranf- 
 parency gives it an unreal fhallownefs. 
 
 This river is inhabited by trouts, parrs, loches, minnows, 
 eels and lampries ; and what is fingular, the chub, which with 
 us loves only the deep and ftill waters bounded by clayey 
 banks. 
 
 Hol-house. Q n t ] ie oppofite eminence fee Hol-houfe, a defenfible tower like 
 
 that at Kirk andrews, and one of the feats of the famous Johnny 
 
 * "trong. RM ~ Armjirong, laird of Gilnockie, the moft popular and potent thief 
 of his time, and who laid the whole Englijh borders under con- 
 tribution, but never injured any of his own countrymen. He 
 always was attended with twenty-four gentlemen well mounted : 
 and when James V. went his progrefs in 1528, exprefsly to free 
 the country from marauders of this kind, Gilnockie appeared be- 
 fore him with thirty-fix perfons in his train*, moft gorgeoufly 
 appareled •, and himfelf fo richly dreffed, that the king faid what 
 wants that knave that a king floould have ? his majefty ordered him 
 and his followers to immediate execution, in fpite of the great offers 
 Gilnockie made •, who finding all application for favor, vain, he 
 according to the old ballad, boldly told the king, 
 
 * Lindfey, 1 47. 
 
 To
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 To feik hot water beneath cold yce, 
 
 Surely it is a great folie ; 
 I haif afked grace at a gracelefs face, 
 
 But there is nane for my men and me. 
 
 I faw a boy, a direct defcendent of this unfortunate brave, who 
 with his whole family are faid to be diftinguifhed for their honefty 
 and quiet difpofition, happily degenerating from their great an- 
 ceftor. 
 
 Continue my ride on a fine turnpike road, through beautiful 
 woods, to Mr. Maxwell's of Broomholme, environed with a moft Broomholme. 
 magnificent theatre of trees, cloathing the lofty hills, and the 
 whole furmounted by a barren mountain, by way of contrail:. 
 
 The rent of the ground which Mr. Maxwell keeps in his own 
 hands, and that of a farm now disjoined from it, was in the 
 unfettled times of the beginning of the laft century, only five 
 pounds Scotch, or eight millings and four pence Englijh. At 
 prelent Mr. Maxwell's fhare alone would take a hundred pounds 
 fterling annual rent. This is mentioned as an illuftration of the 
 happy change of times, and the increafe of revenues by the fecu- 
 rity the owners now enjoy, by the improvements in agriculture, 
 and the cheapnefs of money to what they were a century and a half 
 ago. Indeed it mould be mentioned that the old rent was paid by a 
 Maxwell to a Maxwell i and perhaps there might be fome fmall 
 matter of favor from the chieftain to his kinfman ; but even ad- 
 mitting fome partiality, the rife of income muft be amazino-. 
 
 The road continues equally beautiful, along a fertile glen, 
 bounded by hills, and woods. Come in view of a bridge, with 
 the pleafing motion of a mill wheel ken in perfpective through 
 
 N the 
 
 89
 
 HSEP. 
 
 90 A T O U R 
 
 the middle arch : the river was here low, and the bed appeared 
 roughened with tranfverfe waved rocks, extenfively fpread, and 
 fharply broken. 
 Iangholme. T ne town oi Langholme appears in a fmall plain, with the entrance 
 
 of three dales, and as many rivers, from which they take their 
 names, entring into it, viz. Wachopdak, Eufdale and EJkdale ; the laft 
 extends thirty or forty miles in length, and the fides as far as I could 
 fee, bounded by hills of imooth and verdant grafs, the fweet food of 
 the fheep, the great ftaple of the country. To give an idea of the 
 confiderable traffic carried on in thefe animals, the reader may be 
 told, that from twenty to thirty-fix thoufand lambs are fold in 
 the feveral fairs that are held at Langholme in the year. To 
 this muft be added, the great profit made of the wool, fold into 
 England for our coarfer manufactures ; of the fheep themfelves fent 
 into the fouth, and even of the cheefe and butter made from the 
 milk of the ewes *. 
 
 The truftees for encouraging of improvements give annual 
 premiums to fuch who produce the fineft wool, or breed the beft 
 tups •, a wife meafure in countries emerging from floth and po- 
 verty. 
 
 The manufactures of Langholme , are fluffs, ferges, black and white 
 plaids, plains, &c. moflly fold into England. 
 
 The cafde is no more than a fquare tower, or border-houfe, once 
 belonging to the Armjlrongs. In my walk to it was fhewn the place 
 where feveral witches had fuffered in the laft century : this reminds 
 me of a very fingular belief that prevaled not many years ago in thefe 
 
 • For a fuller account of the management of the &eep of this county, vide the 
 Appendix,- 
 
 parts :
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 parts : nothing lefs than that the midwives had power of trans- 
 ferring part of the primaeval curfe bellowed on our great firft 
 mother, from the good wife to her hufband. I faw the reputed off- 
 fpring of fuch a labor ; who kindly came into the world without 
 giving her mother the left uneafmefs, while the poor hufband was 
 roaring with agony in his uncouth and unnatural pains. 
 
 The magiftrates of this place are very attentive to the fuppreflion 
 of all exceflive exertions of that unruly member the tono-ue : the 
 Brank y an inflrument of punifhment, is always in readinefs ; and I A brank. 
 was favored with the fight ; it is a fort of head-piece, that opens and 
 inclofes the head of the impatient, while an iron, fharp as a chizzel 
 enters the mouth, and fubdues the more dreadful weapon within. 
 This had been ufed a month before, and as it cut the poor female 
 till blood gufhed from each fide of her mouth, it would .be well 
 that the judges in this cafe would, before they exert their power 
 again, confider not only the humanity, but the legality of this 
 practice. 
 
 The learned Doctor Plot * has favored the world with a mi- 
 nute defcription, and a figure of the inflrument, and tells us, he 
 looks on it ' as much to be preferred to the ducking Jloot, which 
 * not only endangers the health of the party, but alio gives the 
 c tongue liberty 'twixt every dip ■, to neither of which this is at all 
 6 lyable.' 
 
 Among the various cufloms now obfolete, the moft curious was Handfistjnc,; 
 that of Handfifting, in ufe about a century pafl. In the upper part 
 of EJkdak} at the confluence of the white and the black Eft, was 
 
 * Hiji. Staffcrdjbire, 389, tab. xxxii. 
 
 N 2 held 
 
 91
 
 92 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 held an annual fair, where multitudes of each fex repaired. The 
 unmarried looked out for mates, made their engagement by joining 
 hands, or by handfijling, went off in pairs, cohabited till the next 
 annual return of the fair, appeared there again, and then were at 
 liberty to declare their approbation or diflike of each other. If 
 each party continued conftant, the handfifting was renewed for life: 
 but if either party diffented, the engagement was void, and both 
 were at full liberty to make a new choice ; but with this provifo, 
 that the inconftant was to take the charge of the offspring of the year 
 of probation. This cuflom feemed to originate from the want of 
 clergy in this county in the days of popery : this tract was the pro- 
 perty of the abby of Melrofs, which through ceconomy difcontinued 
 the vicars that were ufed to difcharge here the clerical offices : 
 inftead, they only made annual vifitations for the purpofes of 
 marrying and baptifing, and the perfon thus fent,. was called Book in 
 bofom, probably from his carrying, by way of readinefs, the book in 
 his bread ; but even this being omitted, the inhabitants became 
 necefiitated at firft to take this method, which they continued from 
 habit to practife long after the reformation had furnifhed them with- 
 clergy. 
 
 Perfons of rank, in times long prior to thofe, took the benefit of 
 this cuflom ; for Lindefey*, in his reign of James II. fays, ' That 
 ' James fixth earl of Murray begat upon Ifobel Innes, daughter 
 6 of the laird of Innes, Alexander Dunbar^ a man of fingular wit and 
 c courage. This Ifabelwzs but handfiji with him, and deceafed be- 
 ' fore the marriage j where-through this Alexander he was worthy 
 
 • P. 26, folio ed. 
 
 'of
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 93 
 
 ' of a greater living, than he might fucceed to by the laws and 
 * pra&ifes of this realm.' 
 
 Of the fports of thefe parts, that of Curling is a favorite j and one Curlinc. 
 unknown in England : it is an amufement of the winter, and 
 played on the ice, by Aiding from one mark to another, great 
 (tones of forty to feventy pounds weight, of a hemifpherical form, 
 with an iron or wooden handle at top. The object of the player is 
 to lay his ftone as near to the mark as poflible, to guard that of his 
 partner, which had been well laid before, or to ftrike off that of his 
 antagonift. 
 
 Return and pafs the march dike, or the Scotch border, and continue 
 at Netherby that night. 
 
 Pafs through Longtown, a place remarkable for the great trade June 2. 
 
 carried on during the feafon of cranberries j when for four or 
 five markets, from twenty to twenty-five pounds worth, are fold 
 each day at three pence a- quart, and fent in fmall barrds to 
 London. 
 
 Crofs the Ejk, on a bridge of five arches, a light ftructure, as 
 mod of the bridges of this country are. Go through the lanes 
 which had been rendered imparTable, at the time of the eruption of 
 the Solway mofs, which took its courfe this way to the Efk. The 
 road was at this time quite cleared j but the fields to the right were 
 quite covered with the black flood. 
 
 The fpace between the Efk and the Sark, bounded on the third Debateaelb 
 fide by the March dike, which croffes from one river to the other, 
 feems properly to belong to Scotland ; but having been difputed by 
 both crowns, was ftyled the debateable land. But in the reign of our 
 James I. Sir Richard Graham obtaining from the Earl of Cumberland 
 
 (to 
 
 LAND.
 
 94 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 (to whom it was granted by Queen Elizabeth) a leafe of this tracl:, 
 bought it from the needy monarch, and had intereft enough to get 
 it united to the county of Cumberland, it being indifferent to 
 James, then in pofleffionof both kingdoms, to which of them it was 
 annexed. 
 
 Ride by the fide of the Roman road, that communicated between 
 Netherby and the camp at Barrens. Crofs a fmall bridge over the 
 Sarky and again enter 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 On the banks of this rivulet, the EngliJJj under the command of 
 the Earl of Northumberland, and Magnus with a red main, received a 
 great defeat from the Scots, under Douglas duke ofOrmond, and Wal- 
 lace of Craigie. Numbers of the former were drowned in their flight 
 in Solway firth , and lord Piercy taken prifoner, a misfortune owing 
 to his filial piety, in helping his father to a horfe, to enable him * to 
 efcape. 
 Scotch At a little diflance from the bridge, flop at the little village of 
 
 Gratna, the refort of all amorous couples, whole union the prudence 
 of parents or guardians prohibits : here the young pair may be 
 inftantly united by a niherman, a joiner, orablackfmith, who marry 
 from two guineas a job, to a dram of whilky : but the price is gene- 
 rally adj ufted by the information of the poftilions from Carlile, who 
 are in pay of one or other of the above worthies , but even the 
 
 • Hift. of Douglas's, p. 179. 
 
 drivers, 
 
 MARRIAGES.
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 
 
 drivers, in cafe of neceffity, have been known to undertake the 
 facerdotal office. If the purfuit of friends proves very hot ; and 
 there is not time for the ceremony, the frightened pair are advifed 
 to flip into bed ; are fhewn to the purfuers, who imagining that they 
 are irrecoverably united, retire, and leave them to 
 
 confummate their unfinifhed loves. 
 
 This place is diftinguifhed from afar by a fmall plantation of firs, 
 the Cyprian grove of the place ; a fort of land-mark for fugitive 
 lovers. As I had a great defire to fee the high-prieft, by ftratagem 
 I fucceeded : he appeared in form of a fifherman, a flout fellow, in a 
 blue coat, rolling round his folemn chops a quid of tobacco of no 
 common fize. One of our party was fuppofed to come to explore 
 the coafl : we queftioned him about his price j which, after eyeing 
 us attentively, he left to our honor. The church of Scotland does 
 what it can to prevent thefe clandeftine matches ; but in vain, for 
 thofe infamous couplers defpife the fulmination of the kirk, and ex- 
 communication is the only penalty it can inflict. 
 
 Continue my journey over a woodlefs flat tract, almoft hedgelefs, 
 but productive of excellent oats and barley. Pafs by Rig, a little 
 hamlet, a fort of chapel of eafe to Gratna, in the run-away nuptials. 
 The performer here is an alehoufe-keeper. 
 
 On the left is Solway-firth, and a view of Kefwick-fells, between 
 which and Burufwork hill in Scotland, is a flat of -forty miles, 
 and of a great extent in length. The country grows now very un- 
 cultivated, and confifts of large commons. Reach 
 
 Annan, in Annandale, another diviflon of Dumfries/hire, a town of Annan, 
 
 four or five hundred inhabitants, feated on the river of the fame name. 
 
 Veflfels 
 
 95
 
 $6 A T O U R 
 
 VefTels of about two hundred and fifty tuns can come wiihin half a 
 mile of the town, and of fixty as high as the bridge. This place has 
 fome trade in wine : the annual exports are between twenty and 
 thirty thoufand Winchefter bufhels of corn. 
 
 The caftle was entirely demolifhed, by order of parlement, after 
 the accefiion of James VI. to the crown of England^ and only the 
 ditches remain. But Annan was in a manner ruined by Wharton^ 
 Lord Prefident of the marches, who, in the reign of Edward VI. 
 overthrew the church, and burnt the town> the firft having been 
 fortified by the Scots *, under a Lyon of the houfe of Glames. 
 
 The Bruces were once Lords of this place, as appears by a ftone 
 at prefent in a wall of a gentleman's garden, taken from the ruins of 
 the caftle, and thus infcribed, Robert de Brus Counte de Carrick et 
 fenteur du val dzAnnand. 1300. 
 
 After dinner make an excurfion of five miles to Ruthwell, palling 
 over the Annan on a bridge of five arches, defended by a gateway. 
 The country refembles that I pafTed over in the morning, but at 
 Newby-Neck obferve the ground formed into eminences, fo remark- 
 ably as tooccafion a belief of their being artificial, but are certainly 
 nothing more than the freaks of nature. 
 Antient The church of Ruthwell contains the ruins of a moft curious 
 
 obelisk.. monument ; an obelifk once of a great height, now lying in three 
 
 pieces, broken by an order of the general affembly in 1644, under 
 pretence of its being an object of fuperftition among the vulgar. 
 When entire it was probably about twenty feet high, exclufive of 
 pedeftal and capital •, making allowances in the meafurement of the 
 
 • Jjfcougb's Hift. of the wars of Scot I. and Engl. 321. 
 
 prefent
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 prefent pieces for fragments chipped off, when it was deftroyed : it 
 originally confuted of two pieces ; the loweft, now in two, had been 
 fifteen feet long ; the upper had been placed on the other by means 
 of a focket : the form was fquare and taper, but the fides of unequal 
 breadth : the two oppofite on one fide at bottom were eiohteen 
 inches and a half, at top only fifteen •, the narrower fide fixteen at 
 bottom, eleven at top. Two of the narroweft fides are ornamented 
 with vine-leaves, and animals intermixed with runic characters 
 around the margin : on one of the other fides is a very rude fio-ure 
 of our Saviour, with each foot on the head of fome beads : above and 
 each fide him are inferibed in Saxon letters, Jefus Chrijlus— judex equi- 
 tatis, certo fahatoris mundi et an — perhaps as Mr. Gordon * imagines 
 Angelorum — Bejius et Dracones cognoverant inde— — and laftly are the 
 words, fregerunt panem. 
 
 Beneath the two animals is a compartment with two ficrures, one 
 bearded, the other not, and above is inferibed, Sanclus Paulus. 
 
 On the adverfe fide is our Saviour again, with Mary Magdalene 
 wafhing his feet, and the box of ointment in his hand. The in- 
 fcriptions, as made out by Mr. Gordon, are, Alabafirum unguenti 
 
 — — ejus Lachrymis capit rigare pedes, ejus capillis capitis fui terne- 
 
 bat et prateriens vidi. 
 
 The different fculptures were probably the work of different 
 times and different nations ; the firft that of the chriflian Saxons j 
 the other of the Danes, who either found thofe fides plain ; or 
 defacing the antient carving, replaced it with fome of their own. 
 Tradition fays, that the church was built over this obelifk, long 
 
 * It in. 161. 
 
 O after
 
 A TOUR 
 
 after its erection •, and as it was reported to have been trani- 
 ported here by angels, it was probably fo fecured for the fame 
 reafon as the fanta cafa at Loretto was, leaft it fhould take another 
 flight. 
 
 The pedeftal .lies buried beneath the floor of the church : I 
 found fome fragments of the capital, with letters fimilar to the 
 others j and on each oppofite fide an eagle, neatly cut in relief. 
 There was alfo a piece of another, with Saxon letters round the 
 lower part of a human figure, in long veftments, with his foot on 
 a pair of imall globes : this too feemed to have been the top of 
 a crofs. 
 
 Scotland has had its vicar of Bray: for in this church-yard is 
 an infeription in memory of Mr. Gazvin Young, and Jean Stewart. 
 his fpoufe. He was ordained minifter in 1617, when the church 
 was prefbyterian : foon after, James VI. eflablifhed a moderate fort 
 of epifcopacy. In 1638, the famous league and covenant took 
 place : the bifhops were depofed, and their power abolifhed : 
 prefbytery then flourifhed in the fullnefs of acrimony. Sectaries 
 of all forts invaded the church in CromweW time, all equally 
 hating, perfecuting, and being periecuted in their turns. In 1660, 
 on the refloration, epifcopacy arrived at its plenitude of power ;. 
 and prefbyterianifm expelled ; and that feci; which in their prof- 
 perity fhewed no mercy r now met with retributory vengeance. 
 Mr. Young maintained his pod amidft all thefe changes, and what 
 is much to his honor, fupported his character : was refpected by 
 all parties for his moderation and learning : lived a tranquil life,, 
 and died in peace, after enjoying his cure fifty-four years. 
 
 The
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 The epitaph on him, his wife and family, merits prefervation, if 
 but to fhew the number of his children : 
 
 Far from our own, amids our own we ly : 
 Of our dear Bairns, thirty and one us by. 
 anagram. 
 Gwvinus Junius 
 Unius agni ufui 
 Jean Steuart 
 a true faint 
 a true faint Hive it,fo I die it. 
 tho men f anu no, my God did fee it. 
 
 This parifli extends along the Sol-way firth, which gains on the 
 land continually, and much is annually waihed away : the tides re- 
 cede far, and leave a vaft fpace of fands dry. The fport of falmon- 
 hunting is almoft our of ufe, there being only one perfon on the 
 coaft who is expert enough to practice the diverfion : the fportfman 
 is mounted on a good horie, and furnifhed with a long fpear : he 
 difcovers the fifti in the fhallow channels formed by EJk y purfues 
 it full fpeed, turns it like a gre-hound, and after a long chace leldom 
 fails to transfix it. 
 
 The falt-makers of Ruthwell merit mention, as their method feems 
 at prefent quite local. As foon as the warm and dry weather of 
 June comes on, the fun brings up and incrufts the furface of the 
 land with fait : at that time they gather the fand to the depth of an 
 inch, carry it out of the reach of the tide, and lay it in round 
 compact heaps, to prevent the fait from being warned away by the 
 rains : they then make a pit eight feet long and three broad, and 
 the fame depth, and plaifter the infide with clay, that it may 
 
 O ?. hold 
 
 99 
 
 SaLMON'CHACEi 
 
 Salt-makers,
 
 ioo A T O U R 
 
 hold water *, at the bottom they place a layer of peat and turf, 
 and fill the pit with the collected fand : after that they pour 
 water on it : this filters through the fand, and carries the fait with 
 it into a Idler pit, made at the end of the great one : this 
 they boil in fmall lead pans, and procure a coarfe brown fait, very 
 fit for the purpofes of faking meat or fifh. James VI. in a vifit he 
 made to thefe parts, after his accefiion to the crown of England, 
 took notice of this operation, and for their induftry exempted the 
 poor falt-makers of Ruthwell from all duty on this commodity ; 
 which till the union, was in all the Scotch acts relating to the fait 
 duties, excepted. 
 
 In this parifh was lately difcovered a fingular road through a 
 morafs, made of wood, confiding of fplit oak planks, eight feet 
 long, faftened down by long pins or flakes, driven through the 
 boards into the earth. It was found out by digging of peat, and 
 at that time lay fix feet beneath the furface. It pointed towards the 
 lea, and in old times was the road to it ; but no tradition remains of 
 the place it came from. 
 
 Return through Annan, and after a ride over a naked tract, reach 
 Springkeld, the feat of Sir William Maxwell: near the houfe is the 
 fite of Bell-cajlle, where the Duke of Albany, brother to James III, 
 and the Earl of Douglas lodged the night before their defeat at Kirk- 
 onnel, a place almoft contiguous. This illuflrious pair had been 
 exiled in. England, and invaded their own country on a plundering 
 fcheme, in a manner unworthy of them. Albany efcaped •, Douglas was 
 taken, and finifhed his life in the convent of Lindores*, 
 
 * Hume's Hi ft. of the Douglas's, folio, p. 206. 
 
 In
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 IOI 
 
 In the burying-ground of Kir konnel is the grave of the fair Ellen Ellen Irvine. 
 Irvine, and that of her lover : me was daughter of the houfe of 
 Kirkonnel; and was beloved by two gentlemen at the fame time j the 
 one vowed to facrifice the fuccefsful rival to his refentment -, and 
 watched an opportunity while the happy pair were fitting on the 
 banks of the Kirtle, that wafhes thefe grounds. Ellen perceived the 
 defperate lover on the oppofite fide, and fondly thinking to fave her 
 favorite, interpofed ; and receiving the wound intended for her be. 
 loved, fell and expired in his arms. He inftantly revenged her 
 death ; then fled into Spain, and ferved for fome time againft the 
 infidels : on his return he vifited the grave of his unfortunate mif- 
 trefs, ftretched himfelf on it, and expiring on the fpot, was interred 
 by her fide. A fword and a crofs are engraven on the tomb-ftone, 
 with hie jacet Adam Fleming : the only memorial of this unhappy- 
 gentleman, except an antient ballad of no great meritj which records 
 the tragical event *. 
 
 Excepting a glen near Springkeld, mod of this country is very- 
 naked. It is faid to have been cleared of the woods . by act of 
 parlement, in the time of James VI, in order to deftroy the re- 
 treat of the mofs-troopers, a peft this part of the country was in- 
 famous for : in fact the whole of the borders then was, as Urn- 
 defay expreffes, no other thing but theft, reiff and Jlaughter. They 
 were pofTeflfed by a fet of potent clans, all of Saxon defcent ; and, 
 like true defcendents of IJhmael, their hands were againft every 
 man, and every man's hand againft them. The John/ions, of 
 
 •• Which happened either the latter end of the reign of James V. or the 
 beginning of that of Mary, 
 
 Lough-
 
 102 
 
 T OUR 
 
 Lough-wood, in Annandale ; their rivals the Maxwels of Caerlavo- 
 roc the Murrays of Cockpool, Glendomvyns of Glendonwin, Carru- 
 thers of Holmain, Irvines of Bonfhaw, Jardins of Applegarth, and 
 the SSafc of Liddefdale, may be enumerated among the great 
 families. 
 
 But befides thefe were a fet of clans and furnames on the whole 
 border, and on the dcbateable ground, who, as my author * fays, 
 were not landed ; many of them diftinguifhed by noms de guerre, in 
 the manner as feveral of our unfortunate brave are at prefent, fuch 
 as Tom Trotter of the hill,, the Goodman Dickfon of Bucktrig, Ralph 
 Bum of the Coit, George Hall, called Pat's Geordie there, the Lairds 
 jok, Wanton Sym, Will of Powdcr-lanpat, Arthur fire the Braes, Gray- 
 Will, Will the Lord, Willie of Gratna hill, Richie Graham the Plump, 
 John Skynbank, Priors John and his bairnes, Heftor of the Harlaw, 
 the grief es and cuts of Harlaw ; thefe and many more, merry men all, 
 of Robin Hood's fraternity, fuperior to the little diftinctions of meum 
 and tuum. 
 June 3. Vifit the Roman flation at Barrens, in the parifli of Mddleby, 
 
 feated on a flat, bounded on one fide by the fmall water of Mien, 
 Burrens camp, and on another by a fmall Urn. It was well defended by fou r 
 ditches and five dikes -, but much of both is carried away by the 
 winter floods in the river that bounded on one fide j a hypocauft had 
 been difcovered here, inferibed ftones dug up, and coins found, 
 fome of them of the lower empire. Oblerved a place formed of 
 iquare ftones, which I was told contained, at the time of the dif- 
 
 * Taken from a fragment of a quarto book, printed in 1603, containing names 
 of clans in every fheriffdom, &c. &c. 
 
 covery,
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 103 
 
 covery, a quantity of grain : I was alfo informed, that there had been 
 a large vault a hundred and twenty feet long, defigned for a granary ; 
 but this has long fince been defiroyed for fake of the materials. Mr. 
 Horfely imagines this to have been the blatuni bulgium of Antonine, 
 being on the North fide of the wall, with a military road between it 
 and Netherby -, and that it was the place where Agricola concluded 
 his fecond year's expedition. As that General was diftinguiflied for 
 his judicious choice of fpots of encampment, fo long after, his fuc- 
 ceflbrs made ufe of this, as appears by a medal of ' Conjlantius Chlorus 
 being found here, for that Emperor lived about two hundred and 
 twenty years after Agricola. 
 
 The country now begins to grow very hilly ; but ufefully fo -, 
 the hills being verdant, and formed for excellent fheep-walks : on 
 the fides of one called Burn/work, about two miles from Burrens, 
 are two beautiful camps, united to each other by a rampart, that Burnsworr 
 winds along the fide of the hill •, one camp being on the S. Eaft, 
 the other on the N. Weft: one has the pratorium yet vifible ; and 
 on the North fide are three round tumuli, each joined to it by a 
 dike, projecting to fome diftance from the ramparts ; as if to pro- 
 tect the gate on that quarter, for each of thefe mounts had its little 
 fort : the other camp had two of thefe mounts on one fide and one 
 on each end ; but the veftiges of thefe are very faint : both of 
 thefe camps were fur rounded with a deep ditch, and a ftrong 
 rampart both on the infide and the outfide of the fofs ; and on 
 the very fummit of the hill is a fmall irregular intrenchment, 
 intended as exploratory, for the view from thence is uninterrupted 
 on every part. Thefe camps are very accurately planned by Mr. 
 Gordon, tab. I. p. 16. Thefe alfo were the work of Agricola, and 
 
 highly 
 
 CAMPS.
 
 104 
 
 TOUR 
 
 hio-hly probable to be, as Mr. Horfely imagines, the Summer camp 
 of that at Burrens. 
 
 .The view from the fummit is extremely extcnfive : the town of 
 Lochmaban, with its lake and ruined caftle, built on a heart-fhaped 
 peninfula ; Queenjbury hill, which gives title to the Duke ; Harts- 
 fell, and the Loders, which difpute for height ; yet a third, the 
 ■Briffels, was this day patched with fnow ; and laftly, Ericftone y 
 which fofters the Annan, the Clyde and the Tweed. 
 
 Defcend and pafs through the fmall town of Ecclefechan (ecclefic 
 Fechani) noted for the great monthly markets for cattle. 
 
 Near this place, on the eftate of Mr. Irvine, writer, was found 
 an antiquity whofe ufe is rather doubtful : the metal is gold ; the 
 length rather more than feven inches and a half; the weight 2 oz, 
 and a half and 1 5 gs. It is round and very (lender in the middle, 
 at each end grows thicker, and of a conoid form, terminating 
 with a flat circular plate : on the fide of one end are ftamped the 
 words Helenus fecit ; on the other is prick'd ....HIM B. From 
 the flendernefs of the middle part, and the thicknefs of the ends, 
 it might perhaps ferve as a fattening of a garment, by inferting it 
 through holes on each fide, and then twilling together this pliant 
 metal. 
 
 Keep along the plain, arrive again on the banks of the Annan, and 
 have a very elegant view of its wooded margent, the bridge, a light 
 ftructure with three arches, one of fifty- two feet, the others of 
 twenty-five, with the turrets of Hoddam caftle a little beyond, over- 
 topping a very pretty grove. 
 Hoddam castle. The caftle confifts of a great fquare tower, with three (lender 
 round turrets : the entry through a door protected by another of 
 
 iron
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 iron bars ; near it a fquare hole, by way of dungeon, and a flair- 
 cafe of flone, fuited to the place : but inflead of finding a cap- 
 tive damfel and a fierce warder, met with a courteous laird and 
 his beauteous fpoufe ; and the dungeon not filled with piteous 
 captives, but well flored with generous wines, not condemned to 
 a long imprifonment. 
 
 This caftle, or rather flrong border-houfe, was built by John 
 Lord Harries, nick-named John de Reeve, a ftrenuous fupporter 
 of Mary Stuart, who conveyed her fafe from the battle of Lang- 
 fide to his houfe of Terrigles, in Galloway, and from thence to 
 the abby of Dundrannan, and then accompanied her in a fmall 
 vefTel in her fatal flight into England. Soon after, it was furren- 
 dered * to the regent Murray, who appointed the Laird of Drum- 
 lanrig Governor and Lord of the marches. Before the accefiion 
 of James VI, Hoddam was one of the places of defence on the 
 borders •, for i the houfe of Howdam was to be keped with ane 
 * wife ftout man, and to have with him four well-horfed men, 
 " and thir to have two flark footmen fervants to keep their horfes, 
 ' and the principal to have ane flout footman f. 
 
 In the walls about this houfe are preferved altars and inferip- 
 tions found in the flation at Barrens : as they do not appear to 
 have fallen under the notice of the curious, an enumeration of 
 them perhaps will not be unacceptable ; therefore fhall be added 
 in the appendix. 
 
 Near Hoddam, on an eminence, is a fquare building, called the 
 Tower of repentance. On it is carved the word repentance, with a 
 
 * Hollfajbed's hift. Scotl. 393. -J- Border laws, app. 197. 
 
 P ferpent 
 
 105
 
 io6 A T O U R 
 
 ferpent at one end of the word, and a dove at the other, fignify-- 
 ing remorfe and grace. It was built by a Lord Harries, as a fort 
 of atonement for putting to death fome prifoners whom he had 
 made under a promife of quarter. 
 
 Proceed over a country full of low hills, fome parts under re- 
 cent cultivation ; others in a heathy ftate of nature. Reach, in 
 a wet cultivated and woody flat, the caftle and houfe of Comlongam, 
 the property of Lord Stormount, and the birth-place of that orna- 
 ment of our ifland, Lord Mansfield. 
 
 The caftle confifts of a great fquare tower, now almoft in ruins,, 
 though its walls of near thirteen feet in thicknefs might have pro- 
 mifed to the architect a longer duration. Many fmall rooms are 
 gained out of the very thicknefs of the fides •, and at the bottom 
 of one, after a defcent of numbers of fteps, is the noifome dun- 
 geon, without light or even air-holes, except the trap-door in the 
 floor, contrived for the lowering in of the captives. This for- 
 trefs was founded by one of the anceftors of the Murrays, Earls 
 of Annandak; a title which failed in that name about the time of 
 the reftoration. 
 June 4. Ride along the fhore by the end of Lockermofs, a morafs of 
 
 about ten miles in length, and three in breadth, with the little 
 water of Locker running through it. This tract, from recent fur- 
 vey, appears to have been overflowed by the fea, which confirms 
 the tradition relating to fuch an event. This invafion of the 
 tides was certainly but temporary, for from the numbers of trees, 
 roots, and other vegetable marks found there, it is evident that 
 this morafs was, in ibme very diftant period, an extenfive foreft. 
 JMear a place called Kilblain I met with one of the antient canoes 
 
 of
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 of the primeval inhabitants of the country, when it was proba- 
 ble in the fame ftate of nature as Virginia, when firft difcovered 
 by Captain Philip Amidas. The length of this little veffel was 
 eight feet eight, of the cavity fix feet feven ; the breadth two 
 feet ; depth eleven inches ; and at one end were the remains of 
 three pegs for the paddle : the hollow was made with fire, in the 
 very manner that the Indians of America formed their canoes, ac- 
 cording to the faithful reprefentation by Thomas Harriot *, in De~ 
 Bry's publication of his drawings. Another of the fame kind 
 was found in 1736, with its paddle, in the fame morafs : the lafl 
 was feven feet long, and dilated to a confiderable breadth at one 
 end ; fo that in early ages neceffity dictated the fame inventions 
 to the moil remote regions f. Thefe were long prior to our vi- 
 tilia navigia j and were in ufe in feveral antient nations : the Greeks 
 called them Movo^vAcc and a-n<x(py : fome held three perlbns, others 
 only one j: ; and of this kind feems to have been that now men- 
 tioned. Thofe ufed by the Germans \\ were of a vaft fize, capable 
 of holding thirty men ; and the Gauls on the Rhone had the fame 
 fpecies of boats, but were indifferent about their fhape, and con- 
 tent if they would but float, and carry a large burden §. 
 
 At Mr. Dickfon's, of Lockerwood, faw a curiofity of another 
 
 • A fervant of Sir Walter Raleigh, fent to Virginia to make drawings and ob- 
 servations. 
 
 f My ingenious friend Mr. Stuart tells me, that the Greeks ftill make ufe of canoes 
 of this kind, to crofs fmall arms of the fea; and that they ftill ftyle them Movo%v\*, 
 from being formed of one piece of wood. 
 
 X Polyani Stratagem. Lib. v. c. 23. p. 509. Velleius Paterculus, lib. ii. c. 107. 
 || Plinii Hill. Nat. xvi. c. 40. § Livii lib. xxi. c. 26. 
 
 P 2 nature,
 
 ioI A T O U R 
 
 nature, found in the neighborhood : a round pot of mixed 
 metal, not unlike a fmall fhallovv mortar, with two rings on one 
 fide, and two handles on the other. 
 
 Over Lockermofs is a road remarkable for its origin : a (Iranger, 
 a great number of years ago, fold fome goods to certain mer- 
 chants at Dumfries upon credit : he difappeared, and neither he 
 nor his heirs ever clamed the money : the merchants in expecta- 
 tion of the demand very honeftly put out the fum to intereft ... 
 and after a lapfe of more than forty years, the town of Dumfries 
 obtained a gift of it, and applied the fame towards making this ; 
 ufeful road. Another is now in execution by the military, which 
 is alfo to pafs over Lockermofs, and is intended to facilitate the 
 communication between North Britain and Ireland, by way of 
 Port Patric. 
 
 In this morning's ride, pafs by a fqnare inclofure of the fize of 
 half an acre, moated round. This was a place of refuge ; for 
 in family difputes, iuch was truly necefiary, and here any perfon 
 who came, remained in inviolable fecurity. 
 
 See the ifle of Caerlaveroc, with a border houfe in the middle, 
 built by a Maxwell. This place is far from the fea j but ftyled an 
 ifle becaufe moated. 
 
 Vifit War Maw, a fmall hill with a round Britijh camp, fur- 
 rounded with two fofTes on the top ; and on the fouth fide the 
 faint veftiges of a Roman camp, now much ploughed up. The 
 profpect from this eminence is fine, of the firth, the difcharge of 
 the river Nith or Nid, the Nobius of Ptolemy ; and a long extent 
 of the hills of Gallozvay. 
 
 The-
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 The Roman encampment on this hill might probably be the 
 Uxelum of Ptolemy, efpecially if we are to derive that word from 
 the Briti/Jj, Uchel, high : for the fite of the fortrefs of Caerla- 
 weroc, is on fuch a flat as by no means to admit of that epithet, 
 or to be allowed to have been the antient Uxelum as Mr. Horfely 
 conjectures. 
 
 The caftle has undergone its different fieges : the firft that ap- 
 pears in hi (lory and the moft celebrated was in the year 1300, 
 when Edward I. fat down before it in perfon. Enraged at 
 the generous regard the Scots fhewed for their liberty, and the 
 unremitted efforts made by their hero Wallace, to free his country 
 from a foreign yoke, the Englijh monarch fummoned his barons, 
 and all the nobility who held of him by military tenure to attend 
 with their forces at Carlile, on the fcaft of St. John the Baptijl. 
 On that occafion, as the poet of the expedition relates, there 
 appeared, 
 
 foiiFant et vint et fept banieres *. 
 
 each of which, with the arms of the baron, are illuminated in a 
 beautiful manner ; and in the catalogue are the names f of the 
 moft puiffant peers of this kingdom, with a little euloge on each : 
 as a fpecimen, is given that on Robert Clifford, in whom it may be 
 fuppofed valour and beauty were combined : 
 
 * I am indebted to Marmaduke Tunfiall, Efq; for the M. S. account of this fiege, 
 finely copied from the original, in the Mufeum; which appears to have been com- 
 pofed in very old and bad French, foon after the event it celebrates, 
 
 f Appendix* 
 
 SI 
 
 109
 
 no 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 Si Je eftoie une pucellette, 
 Je le douroie cuer et cors, 
 Tant eft de lui bons li recors. 
 
 The poet then defcribes the caftle and its fituation with great 
 exactnefs ; and gives it the very fame form and fite it has at 
 prefent : fo that I cannot help thinking that it was never fo entirely 
 deftroyed, but that fome of the old towers yet remain. 
 
 Kaerlaverok cafteaus eftoit 
 
 Si fort ki fiege ne doubtoit ; 
 
 Ainz ki li rois illicec venift, 
 
 Car rendre ni le convenift. 
 
 James mais kil fuft a fon droit, 
 
 Garniz quant befogns en vendroit 
 
 De gens de engins et de vitaille, 
 
 Com uns efcus eftoit de taille, 
 
 Car ni ot ke trois coftez entour, 
 
 Et en che/cune angle une tour. 
 
 Mes ki le une eftoit jumilee, 
 
 Tant hauti et tant longue et tant lei, 
 
 Ke par defouz eftoit la porte 
 
 A Pont tournis, bien faite et forte, 
 
 Et autres defenfes afles, &c. 
 
 It is worth obferving, that it was taken by force of engines, 
 and the Englijh as late as the time in queftion ufed much the fame 
 method of attack as the Greeks and Romans did : for they drove 
 .the enemy from the walls by mowers of ftones, flung from en- 
 gines fimilar to the Catapulu of the antients j and they ufed alfo 
 arietes or battering rams. 
 
 Entr$
 
 IN SCOTLAND, „, 
 
 Entre les aflaus efmaia, 
 
 Ffrere Robert ki envoia 
 
 Meinte piere par Rohinet; 
 
 Juq au foir des le matinet 
 
 Le jour devant cefte ne avoit, 
 
 De autre part ancore i levoit 
 
 Trois autres engins moult plus grans 
 
 Et il penibles et engrans, 
 
 Ke le chattel du tout confondi 
 
 Tant il receut mo't piere enfonde. 
 
 Def chocs et hang's ateint fent 
 
 A fes coups rien ne fe deffent. 
 
 On the furrender Edward behaved with more moderation than 
 was ufual to him : for his laurels were wont to be blighted with 
 deeds unworthy of his heroifm : but in this cafe the poor reliques 
 of the garrifon experienced his clemency, 
 
 Lors fon iffirent ce eft la fome 
 
 Ke de uns ke de autret foiflant home 
 
 A grant merveille refguardes 
 
 Mes tenus furent et guardez 
 
 Tant ke li Roys en ordena 
 
 Ki vie et membre leur donna 
 
 Et a chafm robe nouuele 
 
 Lors fu joieufe la nouuli. 
 
 A toute li oft du chattel pris 
 
 Ki tant eftoit de noble pris. 
 
 It appears that the king immediately mounted his colors on the 
 caftle ; and appointed three barons of the firft reputation to take 
 charge of it, 
 
 Puis
 
 112 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 Puis fill le Roy porter amont 
 
 Sa banniere et la feynt Eymont 
 
 La faint Georgt et la faint Ed-wart 
 
 Et o celes par droit efwart 
 
 La Scgrave & le Herifort 
 
 Et cele au Seigneur di Cliffort 
 
 A ki le chafteaus fut donnes. 
 
 Notwithftanding the care Edward took to fecure this place, it 
 was retaken by the Scots the following year; but very foon after 
 was repofTefied * by the EngUfi^ after a very long fiege. It ap- 
 pears that the Scots again recovered it, for in one of the invafions 
 of the former, the gallant owner, Sir Eujlace Maxwell fupported 
 a fiege in it of fome weeks, and obliged the enemy to retire ; but 
 confidering that it might fall into the hands of the Engli/b, and 
 become noxious to his country, generoufly difmantled it, and for 
 that piece of difinterefted fervice was properly rewarded by his 
 prince, who iemitted to him and his heirs for ever, the aHnual 
 pecuniary acknowlegements they paid to the crown for the caflle 
 and lands of Caerlaveroc -f-. It was again rebuilt; but in 1355 
 (being then in poiTeflion of the Englijh) was taken by Roger Kirk- 
 patric, and leveled to the ground j\ Notwithftanding thefe re- 
 peated misfortunes, it was once more reftored ; and once more 
 ruined, by the Earl of Sujfex in 1570 ||. From this time the 
 
 * Maitland's Hift. Scot. II. 460. 
 
 f Crawford's Peerage of Scotland, 370. 
 
 J Major de geftis Scotorum, 248. more probably rendered defencelefs. 
 
 || Camden's annals in Kennet, II. 429. It appears to me that the prefent are the 
 antient towers, fo exactly do they anfwer to the old poetic defcription ; but that the 
 owners, till the year 1638, neglected it as a fortrefs, yet inhabited it as a manfion. 
 
 Lords
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 Uords of the place feem for fome interval to have been difcou- 
 raged from any attempt towards refloring a fortrefs fo diftinguifhed 
 by its misfortunes; for Camden in 1607, fpeaks of it as only a 
 weak houfe belonging to the barons of Maxwell : yet once more 
 Robert firft Earl of Nithfdale, in 1638, ventured to re-eftablifh the 
 ftrong hold of the family : (till it was ill-fated •, for in the courfe 
 of Cromwel's ufurpation, it was furrendered on terms ill preferv- 
 ed ; and a receit was given for the furniture by one Finch ; in 
 which among other particulars is mention of eighty beds, a proof 
 of the hofpitality or the fplendor of the place. The form of the 
 prefent caftle is triangular ; at two of the corners had been a 
 round tower, but one is now demolifhed ; and on each fide the 
 gateway, which forms the third angle, are two rounders. Over 
 the arch is the creft of the Maxwells (placed there when the 
 caftle was laft repair'd) with the date, and this motto, I bid ye fair, 
 meaning Wardlaw^ the hill where the gibbet flood ; for in feudal 
 times, it .feems to have been much in ufe. 
 
 The caftle yard is triangular : one fide which feems to have been 
 the refidence of the family, is very elegantly built ; has three ftories, 
 with very handfome window cafes : on the pediment of the lower 
 are coats of arms •, over the fecond legendary tales ; over the 
 third, T think C-vidian fables, all neatly cut in ftone. The op- 
 posite fide is plain. In front is a handfome door cafe, leading 
 to the great hall, which is ninety-one feet by twenty-fix. The 
 whole internal length of that fide a hundred and twenty-three. 
 
 The Maxwells, Lords of Caerlaveroc, are of great antiquity: 
 but their hiftory mixed with all the misfortune and all the dif- 
 
 Q^. grace 
 
 113
 
 U4 
 
 OUR 
 
 orace fo frequent in ill-governed times. They and the Johnficm 
 had perpetual feuds : in 1593 the clans had a conflict at the Holy- 
 nefs of Dryfe; the chieftain of the Maxwells, and many of his 
 ions, were (lain. John, a furviving fon, takes his revenge : a 
 meetino- between him and Johnjlon, a predeceffor of the Marquifs 
 of Annandale, was appointed in order to compromife all differences : 
 both met, attended only by a fingle friend to each ; the friends 
 quarrel -, the Laird of Lockerwood goes to part them, but is fhot 
 through the back by the other chieftain •, who defervedly met his 
 fate on the fcaffold a few years after. His forfeiture was taken 
 off*, and his brother not only reftored but created Earl of Nithf- 
 dale : in 1715 the title was loft by the conviction of the Earl of 
 that day -, who efcaped out of the tower the night before execu- 
 tion, by the difguife of a female drefs. The eftate by virtue of 
 entail was preferved to the heirs. 
 
 Continue my ride along the coaft to the mouth of the Nith, 
 which empties itfelf into the vaft efluary, where the tide flows in 
 fo fail on the level fands that a man well mounted would find dif- 
 ficulty to efcape, if furprifed by it. The view of the oppofite 
 fide of Creffel, and the other Gallozvay hills, is very beautiful, 
 Newby abby. and the coaft appeared well wooded. In a bottom lies Newby 
 abby, founded by Devorgilla, daughter to Alan, Lord of Galloway, 
 and wife to John Baliol, Lord of Cajlle-Bemard, who died and was 
 buried here : his lady embalmed his heart, and placed it in a cafe 
 of ivory, bound with filver, near the high altar ; on which ac- 
 count the abby is oftener called Sweet-heart and Suavi-cordium. 
 
 Pafs by Port-Kepel, the firth gradually contracting itfelf; and 
 to this place veiTels of two hundred tuns may come. The coun- 
 try
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 115 
 
 try on both fides the river is extremely beautiful •, the banks de- 
 corated with numerous groves and villas, richly cultivated and 
 well inclofed. The farmers fhew no want of induflry : they im- 
 port, as far as from Whitehaven, lime for manure, to the annual 
 amount of twenty-five hundred pounds, paying at the rate of fix- 
 pence for the Winchefter bufhel : they are alfo fo happy as to have 
 great quantities of fhell marl in the neighboring morarTes •, and 
 are now well rewarded for the ufe of it : much wheat and barley 
 are at prefent the fruits of their labor, inftead of a very paltry 
 oat ; and good hay inftead of rufhes now cloath their meadows. 
 Reach 
 
 Dumfries, a very neat and well-built town, feated on the Nith, Dumfries, 
 and containing about five thoufand fouls. It was once poffefied 
 of a large fhare of the tobacco trade, but at prefent has fcarcely 
 any commerce. The great weekly markets for black cattle are of 
 much advantage to the place ; and vaft droves from Galloway and 
 the fhire of Air pafs through in the way to the fairs in Norfolk and 
 Suffolk. 
 
 The two churches are remarkably neat, and have handfome 
 galleries, fupported by pillars. In the church-yard of St. Michael 
 are feveral monuments in form of pyramids, very ornamental, 
 and on fome grave-ftones are infcriptions in memory of the mar- 
 tyrs of the country, or the poor victims to the violence of the 
 apoftate Archbilhop Sharp, or the bigotry of James II, before 
 and after his accefiion. Powers were given to an inhuman fet of 
 mifcreants to deftroy upon fufpicion of difarTection ; or for even 
 declining to give anfwers declarative of their political principles : 
 and fuch who refufed (before two witnelfes) were inftantly put 
 
 Q^2 tO
 
 ,i6 A T O U R 
 
 to death. Many poor peafants were fhot on moors, on the fhores, 
 or wherefoever their enemies met with them : perhaps enthufiafm 
 might pofTefs the fufferers •, but an infernal fpirit had poffeffion of 
 their perfecutors. The memory of thefe flagitious deeds' are pre- 
 ferred on many of the wild moors by infcribed grave-ftones, much 
 to the fame effect as the following in the church-yard in this city : 
 
 On John Grierfon, who fuffered Jan. 2, 1667. 
 
 ' Underneath this ftone doth lie 
 Duft facrificed to tyranny: 
 Yet precious in ImmanuePs fight, 
 Since martyr'd for his kingly right; 
 When he condemns thefe heilifh drudges 
 By fufferage, Saints fhall be their judges. 
 
 Another on James Kirke, fhot on the fands of Dumfries, fhall 
 1 conclude this dreadful fubject : 
 
 By bloody Bruce and wretched Wright 
 I loft my life in great defpight. 
 Shot dead without due time to try 
 And fit me for eternity. 
 A witnefs of Prelatic rage 
 As ever was in any age. 
 
 This place like moft other con fide rable town in Scotland, has 
 its feceders chapel : thefe are the rigid prefbyterians who pofTefs 
 their religion in all its original fournefs : think their church in 
 danger becaufe their minifters degenerate into moderation, and 
 wear a gown ; or vindicate patronage. To avoid thefe horrid 
 innovations, they feparate themfelves from their imaginary falfe 
 
 brethren $
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 117 
 
 brethren ; renew a folemn league and covenant, and preferve to 
 the beft of their power all the rags and rents bequeathed to them 
 by John Knox, which the more fenfible preachers of this day are 
 driving to darn and patch. 
 
 Here I firft found on this fide the Tweed, my good old mother 
 church become a mere conventicler, and her chaplain fupported 
 by a few of her children, difpofed to flick to her in all condi- 
 tions. 
 
 Enquired for the convent of Dominicans, and the church in 
 which Robert Bruce and his aflbciates flew John Cummin, Lord of 
 Badenock, and owner of great part of the lordfhip of Galloway. 
 Cummin had betrayed to Edward I. the generous defign of Bruce 
 to relieve his country from flavery : in refentment Bruce flabbed 
 him ; on retiring was afked by his friends, whether he was fure of 
 his blow, but anfwering with fome degree of uncertainty, one of 
 them, Roger Kirkpatric, replied, I mak ftcker, returned into the 
 church and completed the deed. In memory, the family affumed 
 a bloody dagger for a creft ; and thofe words as the motto. 
 The church thus defiled with blood was pulled down ; and ano- 
 ther built in a different place, and dedicated to St. Michael, the 
 tutelar faint of the town. Robert Bruce alfo built a chapel here, 
 as foon as he got full poffefTion of the kingdom, in which prayers 
 were to be daily offered for the repofe of the foul of Sir Chrifto- 
 pher Set on, who was mofl barbaroufly executed by Edward I. for 
 his attachment to Bruce, and for his defence of his country. 
 
 Dumfries was continually fubject to the inroads of the Engliflo\ 
 and was frequently ruined by them. To prevent their invafions 
 a great ditch and mound, called Warders dikes, were formed 
 
 from
 
 up A T O U R 
 
 from the Nith to Lockermofs, where watch and ward were conftantly 
 kept y and when an enemy appeared the cry was a Lorebum, a Lorer 
 burn. The meaning is no further known than that it was a word of 
 alarm for the inhabitants to take to their arms : and the fame word 
 as a memento of vigilance is infcribed on a ring of filver round the 
 ebony ftaff given into the hands of the provoft as a badge of office on 
 the day of annual election. 
 
 On moft of the eminences of thefe parts, beacons were like- 
 wife eftablifhed for alarming the country on any eruption of their 
 ibuthern neighbors : and the inhabitants able to bear arms were 
 bound, on the firing of thefe fignals, to repair inftantly to the 
 warden of the marches, and not to depart till the enemy was driven 
 out of the country ; and this under pain of high treafon. 
 
 This regulation was eftabliflied in the days of Archibald thi 
 grim, Earl of Douglas, and afterwards renewed with much fo- 
 lemnity by William Earl of Douglas, who afTembled the lords, 
 freeholders, and principal borderers at the college of Lincluden, and 
 caufed them there to fwear on the holy evangelifts, that they fhould 
 truly obferve the ftatutes, ordinances and ufages of the marches, 
 as they were ordained in the time of the faid Archibald. 
 June 5. Had a beautiful view of an artificial water-fall juft in front of a. 
 
 bridge, originally built by Devorgilla, who gave the cuftoms arifing 
 from it to the Francifcan convent at Dumfries. It confifts of nine 
 arches, and connects this county and that of Galloway. 
 
 Crofs it-, pals through a fmall town at its foot, and walk up 
 Gcrbelly hill, remarkable for the fine circumambient profpeft of 
 the charming windings of the Nith towards the fea, the town of 
 
 Dumfries^
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 
 
 i»9 
 
 * Hope's minor prattics. 5 u . Malcolm died 1 165. 
 
 f Major de geft. Scot. 283. Archibald died A. D. 1400. 
 
 ABBV. 
 
 Dumfries, Terregks a houfe of the Maxwells, and a rich vale towards 
 the north. 
 
 Vifit the abby of Lincluden, about half a mile diftant, feated on Lincludek 
 the water of the Cluden, which is another boundary of Galloway 
 on that fide. This religious houfe is feated on a pleafant bank, 
 and in a rich country : and was founded and filled with Benedicline 
 nuns, in the time of Malcolm IV. * by Uthred, father to Roland, 
 Lord of Galloway. Thefe were expelled by the Earl of Douglas 
 (known by the titles of Archibald the black, or grim, and the 
 terrible) probably, as Major infinuates, on account of the impurity 
 of their lives f, for the Earl was a man in piety fingular through his 
 life, and mofl religious according to thofe times. He fixed in their 
 places a provoftry, with twelve beadfmen, and changed the name to 
 that of the college. 
 
 Part of the houfe and chancel, and fome of the South wall of the 
 church are the fole remains of this antient flruclure : in the 
 chancel is the elegant tomb of Margaret, daughter of Robert III, 
 and wife of Archibald Earl of Douglas, firfl Duke of Terouan, and 
 fon of Archibald the grim. Her effigy at full length, lay on the 
 ftone, her head refting on two cufhions ; but the figure is now 
 mutilated ; and her bones, till lately, were fcattered about in a 
 moft indecent manner by fome wretches who broke open the re- 
 pofitory in fearch of treafure. The tomb is in form of an arch, 
 with all parts mofl beautifully carved : on the middle of the arch 
 is the heart, the Douglas's arms, guarded by three chalices, fet 
 
 crofTways,
 
 120 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 croffways, with a ftar near each, and certain letters I could not 
 read. On the wall is infcribed, 
 
 A Uaide de Dieu. 
 
 and at fome diftance beneath, 
 
 Hie jacet D-na Margareta regis Scotia filia quodam comitiffa de Douglas 
 Dna Gollovidia et vallis annandia. 
 
 In the front of the tomb are nine fhields, containing as many arms : 
 in one are the three ftars, the original coat of this great houfe, for 
 the heart was not added till the good Sir James was employed in 
 carrying that of Robert Bruce to the holy land : befides thefe, are the 
 arms after that event ; and alfo their arms as Lords of Annandale. 
 Galloway and Liddefdale. Near the tomb is a door- cafe, richly orna- 
 mented with carving •, and on the top the heart and. chalices, as in 
 the former. 
 
 In other parts of the remains of the church are the arms of the 
 Douglajfes, or Dukes of ferouan, Earls of Angus, of Ormond, and of 
 Murray : here are befides the arms of John Stewart, Earl of Athol^ 
 with the motto, firth, fortune, and.fil the fetters. 
 
 Beneath one of the windows are two rows of figures •, the upper 
 of angels, the lower of a corps and other figures, all much defaced, 
 but feemingly defigned to exprefs the preparations for the interment 
 of our Saviour. 
 
 Behind the houfe are veltiges of a flower-garden, with the parterres 
 and icrolls very vifible ; and near that a great artificial mount, with 
 a fpiral walk, to the top, which is hollowed, and has a turf feat 
 around to command the beautiful views •, fo that the provoft and his 
 
 beadfmen
 
 IN SCOTLAND, lZf 
 
 beadfmen feem to have confulted the luxuries as well as neceiTaries 
 of life. 
 
 Return to Dumfries, where Mr. Hill, furgeon, favored me with the 
 fight of the head of an old lady, excellently painted, about forty 
 years ago, by Mr. JohnPatoun, fon to aminifter in this town. After 
 painting three years in Scotland, about the year [730 he went to 
 London, where he read lectures on the theory of his art : at length 
 was tempted to make a voyage to Jamaica, where he died in a few- 
 weeks, leaving behind him the character of a good man, and able 
 artift. 
 
 Before we left the town, we were honored with its freedom, be- 
 llowed on us in the politeil manner by the magiftrates. 
 
 Continue my journey due North through the beautiful Nithfdak, Juni 6. 
 
 or vale of Nith, the river meandring with bold curvatures along 
 rich meadows ; and the country, for fome fpace, adorned with 
 groves and gentlemen's feats. At a few miles diftance from Dum- 
 fries, leave on the left, Bardanna and Keir, conjectured by Mr. 
 Horfely to have been the Carbantorigum of Ptolemy. Travel over 
 fmall hills, either covered with corn, or with herds of cattle, flocks 
 of black-faced fheep, attended by little pallors, wrapped in their 
 maides *, and fetting the feafons at defiance. The river ftill keeps 
 its beauty, wandring along a verdant bottom, with banks on each 
 fide cloathed with wood •, and the more diftant view hilly. Ride 
 through a tract covered with broom, an indication of barrennefs ; 
 and arrive in fight of Drumlanrig, a houfe of the Duke of Queenjbury, Drumlanrig, 
 magnificently feated on the fide of a hill, an immenfe mafs, em- 
 
 * A fort of long cloak. 
 
 R bofomed
 
 A TOUR 
 
 bofomed in trees. Crofs a handfome bridge of two arches, of a vaft 
 height above the Nitb, which fills the bottom of a deep and wooded 
 alen •, and, after a long afcent through a fine and well- planted park, 
 arrive at the houfe : 
 
 A fquare building, extending an hundred and' forty-five feet in 
 front, with a fquare tower at each corner, and three fmall turrets 
 c 3 each : over the entrance is a cupolo, whofe top is in fhape of a 
 vaft ducal coronet : within is a court, and at each angle a round 
 tower, each containing a flair-cafe : every where is a wearyfome 
 profufion of hearts carved in ftone, the Douglas arms : every win- 
 dow, from the bottom to the third ftory, is well fecured with iron 
 bars ; the two principal doors have their grated guards ; and the 
 cruel dungeon was not forgot •, fo that the whole has the appearance 
 of a magnificent ftate prifon. Yet this pile rofe in compofed times ; 
 it was built by William Duke of Queen/bury, begun in 1679, and 
 completed in 1689. His Grace feemed to have regretted the ex- 
 pence ; for report fays, that he denounced, in a writing on the bun- 
 dle of accounts, a bitter curie on any of his pofterity who offered to 
 infpecl them. 
 
 The apartments are numerous : the gallery is a hundred and eight 
 feet long, with a fire-place at each end : it is ornamented with 
 much of Gibbon's carving, and fome good portraits ; obferved among 
 them 
 
 The firft Dutchefs of Somerfet, half length, no cap, with a fmall 
 love-lock. 
 
 William Duke of Queen/bury, diftinguiflied in the reigns of Charles 
 and James II, by many court favors, by his fervices to thofe mo-. 
 narchs, by his too grateful return in aflifting in the cruel perfec- 
 tions
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 123 
 
 trons of his countrymen averfe to the teft, and by his honorable 
 difgrace, the moment James found him demur to a requeft fubver- 
 five, if complied with, of the religion and liberties of Great- 
 Britain. 
 
 John Earl of Traquair, Lord High Treafurer of Scotland in the 
 turbulent reign of Charles I, a prudent friend of the indifcreet Laud, 
 and like him a zealous churchman -, but unlike him, waited for a 
 proper feafon for bringing his project to bear, inftead of precipitating 
 matters like the unfortunate prelate. A faithful fervant to the 
 crown 9 yet, from his wife advice brought under the fcandal of du- 
 plicity. Was cleared early from the fufpicion by the noble hifto- 
 rian ; and foon after more indifputably by his impeachment, and by 
 his conviction by the popular party j by his imprifonment ; by his 
 taking arms in the royal caufe on his releafe •, by his fecond confine- 
 ment ; by the fequeftration of his eftates : and finally by the diftrefs- 
 ful poverty he endured till death, he gave full but unfortunate tefli- 
 mony of untainted loyalty. 
 
 John Earl Rothes, Chancellor of Scotland, in his gown, with the 
 feals by him. He was in power during the cruel perfecutions of the 
 covenanters in Ch. II. time ; and difcharging his trufl: to the fatis- 
 faction of the court, was created Duke of Rothes, a title that died 
 with him. 
 
 A head of the Duke of Perth, in a bufhy wig : a poft-abdica- 
 tion Duke, a converted favorite of James II. and Chancellor of 
 Scotland at the time of the revolution, when he retired into 
 .France. 
 
 George Douglas, Earl of Dunbarton, in armour ; a great wig and 
 cravat. Inftru&ed in the art of war in the armies of Louis XIV. 
 
 R 2 was
 
 124 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 was General of the forces in Scotland under James II. difperfed the 
 army of the unfortunate Argyle. A gallant officer, who, when 
 James was at Salajbury, generoufly offered to attack the Prince 
 of Orange with his fingle regiment of the Scottip Royal, not with 
 the hope of victory, but of giving him fuch a check as his 
 foverei^n might take advantage of: James, with equal generofity, 
 would not permit the facrifice of fo many brave men. Dunbarton 
 adhered to his king in all fortunes, and on the abdication partook 
 of his exile. 
 
 General James Douglas, who in 1691 died at Namur. 
 Earl of Clarendon, fon of the Chancellor, half-length, in his 
 robes. 
 
 A good portrait of a Tripoli Ambaffadour. 
 
 In the gardens, which are mod expenfively cut out of a rock, is ai 
 bird cherry, of a great fize, not lefs than feven feet eight inches in 
 girth •, and among feveral fine filver firs, one thirteen feet and a half 
 in circumference. 
 June 6. In my walks about the park fee the white breed of wild cattle, 
 
 derived from the native race of the country ; and ftill retain the- 
 primaeval favagenefs and ferocity of their anceftors : were more fhy 
 than any deer -, ran away on the appearance of any of the human 
 fpecies, and even fet off at full gallop on the left noife ; fo that I. 
 was under the necefiity of going very foftly under the fhelter of 
 trees or bufhes to get a near view of them : during fummer they 
 keep apart from all other cattle, but in fevere weather hunger will 
 compel them to vifit the out-houfes in fearch of food. The keepers . 
 are obliged to fhoot them, if any are wanted : if the beaft is not 
 killed on the fpot it runs at the perfon who gave the wound, and; 
 
 who
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 who is forced, in order to fave himfelf, to fly for fafety to the inter- 
 vention of fome tree. 
 
 Thefe cattle are of a middle fize, have very long legs, and the 
 cows are fine horned : the orbits of the eyes and the tips of the nofes 
 are black : but the bulls have loft the manes attributed to them by 
 Boethius. 
 
 Ride to Morton caftle, about four miles diflant, feated on a 
 fteep projection, in a lofty fituation, near the Anchenlec hills. 
 This was originally the feat of Dunenald, predeceffor of Thomas 
 Randolph, afterwards created Earl of Murray by Robert Bruce, 
 when that caftle and that of Auchencafs, near Moffat, was difpofed 
 of to Douglas of Morton, predeceftbr of the Earls of Morton : 
 but at the time that title was conferred, the caftle and lands of 
 Morton being fettled on a Ion of a fecond marriage of that fa- 
 mily, the parlement, on a proteftation on his part, declared, that 
 the beftowing that title mould not prejudice his. right to the caftle 
 and lands, but that it was taken from a place called Morton in Weft- 
 Lothian. 
 
 At prefent remains only one front, with a number of fmall win- 
 dows, each to be afcended on the infide by a flight of fteps : at 
 each end is alfo a rounded tower. I find little of its hiftory, any 
 farther than that it was among the caftles demolifhed by David 11 *' 
 on his return from England, probably in compliance with a private 
 agreement made with Edward III. 
 
 Two miles North from Morton flood the caftle of Durifdeer, 
 demolifhed at the fame time with the former. In the church of 
 
 * Guthrie, III. 70. 
 
 Durifdeer. 
 
 125
 
 126 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 Durifdeer is the maufoleum of the family of Drumlanrig : over the 
 door of the vault are four fpiral pillars fupporting a canopy, all of 
 marble : and ao-ainft the wall is a vaft monument in memory of 
 James Duke of Queenjbury : his grace lies reclined on his arm, with 
 the collar of S. S. round his neck. The Dutchefs, in her robes* re- 
 cumbent i four angels hold a fcrol above, with this infeription : 
 
 Hie 
 
 in eodem tumulo 
 cum Chariflimis conjugis cineribus 
 
 mifci voluit fuis 
 Jacobus Dux Queenjburia et Doverni ; 
 Qui 
 ad tot et tanta honoris 
 Et negotiorum faftigia 
 Quae nullus antea fubditus 
 attegit, evettus, Londini 
 fato ceffit fexta die 
 Julii annoCmusTi Redemptoris 
 1711. 
 
 And beneath is an affectionate and elegant epitaph on his Dutchefs, 
 who died two years before his Grace. 
 
 Vifit Tibbir caftle, about a mile below Drumlanrig, placed on a 
 
 TuN-S To o» 
 
 fmall hill above the little ftream, the Tibber. Nothing remains 
 but the foundations overgrown with fhrubs : It is fuppofed to 
 have been a Roman fort, but that in after-times the Scots profiting of 
 the fituation, and what had been done before, built on the place a 
 imall caftle •, which tradition fays, was furprized by a ftratagem in 
 time of William Wallace *. 
 
 • Gordon's ltin> 19. 
 
 This
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 127 
 
 The beauties of Dramlanrig are not confined to the higheft 
 part of the grounds ; the walks, for a very confiderable way, by 
 the fides of the Nith, abound with moft picturefque and various 
 fcenery : below the bridge the fides are prettily wooded, but not 
 remarkably lofty ; above, the views become wildly magnificent : 
 the river runs through a deep and rocky channel, bounded fey 
 v-afl wooded cliffs, that rife fuddenly from its margin-, and the 
 profpect down from the fummit is of a terrific depth, encreafed 
 by the rolling of the black waters beneath : two views are par- 
 ticularly fine ; one of quick repeated, but extenfive, meanders 
 amidft broken fharp-pointed rocks, which often divide the river 
 into feveral channels, interrupted by fhort and foaming rapids, 
 colored with a moory teint. The other is of a long ftrait, narrowed 
 by the fides, precipitous and wooded, approaching each other 
 equidiftant, horrible from the blacknefs and fury of the river, . 
 and the fiery red and black colors of the rocks, that have all the 
 appearance of having fuftained a change by the rage of another 
 element. 
 
 Crofs the bridge again, and continue my journey Northward for 
 fix or feven miles, on an excellent road, which I was inform'd was 
 the fame for above twenty miles farther, and made at the fole ex- 
 pence of the prefent Duke of Queen/bury : his Grace is in all refpects 
 a warm friend to his country, and by -pramia promotes the manu- 
 factures of woollen fluffs, and a very flrong fort of woollen {lock- 
 ings ; and by thefe methods will preferve on his lands a ufeful and 
 induftrious population, that will be enabled to eat their own bread, 
 and not opprefs their brethren, or be forced into exile, as is the cafe 
 in many other parts of N. Britain, 
 
 Tii©,-
 
 128 A TOUR 
 
 The ride was, for the mod part, above the Nith ; that in many 
 places appeared in lingular forms : the molt ftriking was a place 
 called Hell's Cawdron, a fudden turn, where the water eddies in a 
 large hole, of a vaft depth and blacknefs, overhung, and darkened 
 by trees. On the oppofite fide is the appearance of a Britijh en- 
 trenchment j and near Durifdeer is faid to be a fmall Roman fortrefs : 
 the Roman road runs by it, and is continued from thence by the 
 Well-path^ through Crawford moor, to Ehen-foot, has been lately 
 repaired, and is much preferable to the other through the mountains, 
 which would never have been thought of but for the mines in the 
 lead hills. 
 
 The river afiumes a milder courfe ; the banks bordered with 
 fields, and thofe oppofite, well wooded. On an eminence is the 
 houfe of Eliock, environed with trees, once one of the pofTeffions 
 of Crichton, father to the Admirable ; and before, at fome dif- 
 tance, is the town of Sanquhar, with the ruins of the caftle, the 
 antient feat of the Lords Crichton. The parifh is remarkable for 
 the manufacture of woollen flockings, and the abundance of its 
 coal. 
 
 Quit Nithfdale, and turn fuddenly to the right ;• pafs through the 
 glen of Lochburn between vaft mountains, one fide wooded to a great 
 height, the other naked, but finely graffed, and the bottom warned 
 by the Menoch, a pretty ftream •, the glen grows very narrow, the 
 mountains encreafe in height, and the afcent long and laborious. 
 Ride by Wanlock-head in the parifh of Sanquhar, the property of the 
 Duke of Queen/bury ; fometimes rich in lead ore. Crofs a fmall 
 dike at the top of the mountain, enter 
 
 LANERK-
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 129 
 
 or 
 
 A 
 
 N 
 
 E 
 
 R 
 
 K 
 
 S 
 
 H 
 
 I 
 
 R 
 
 E, 
 
 C 
 
 L 
 
 Y 
 
 D 
 
 E 
 
 S 
 
 D 
 
 A 
 
 L 
 
 E 5 
 
 and continue all night at the little village of Leadbills, in the 
 parifh of Crawford: the place confifts of numbers of mean houfes, 
 inhabited by about fifteen hundred fouls, fupported by the mines ; 
 for five hundred are employed in the rich Sous terrains of this tract 
 Nothing can equal the barren and gloomy appearance of the 
 country round : neither tree nor fhrub, nor verdure, nor pictu- 
 refque rock, appear to amufe the eye : the fpeclator muft plunge 
 into the bowels of thefe mountains for entertainment; or pleafe 
 himfelf with the idea of the good that is done by the well-be- 
 llowed treafures drawn from thefe inexhauftible mines, that are 
 (till rich, baffling the efforts of two centuries. The fpace that 
 has yielded ore is little more than a mile fquare, and is a flat or 
 pafs among the mountains : the veins of lead run North and 
 South ; vary, as in other places, in their depth, and are from 
 two or four feet thick : fome have been found filled with ore with- 
 in two fathoms of the furface ; others fink to the depth of ninety 
 fathom. 
 
 The ore yields in general about feventy pounds of lead from 
 a hundred and twelve of ore; but affords very little filver : the 
 varieties are the common plated ore, vulgarly called Potter's : 
 the fmall or fteel-grained ore ; and the curious white ores, lamel- 
 lated and fibrous, lb much fearched after for the cabinets of the 
 curious. The laft yields from fifty-eight to fixty-eight pounds 
 from the hundred, but the working of this fpecies is much more 
 pernicious to the health of the workmen than the common. 
 
 S The
 
 13° 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 The ores are fmelted in heaths, blown by a great bellows, and 
 fluxed with lime. The lead is fent to Leith in fmall carts, that 
 carry about leven hundred weight, and exported free from duty. 
 
 The miners and fmelters are fubject here, as in other places, 
 to the lead diftemper, or mill-reek, as it is called here ; which 
 brings on palfies, and fometimes madnefs, terminating in death 
 in about ten days. Yet about two years ago died, at this place, 
 a perlbn of primeval longevity : one John Taylor, miner, who 
 worked at his bufinefs till he was a hundred and twelve: he did 
 not marry till he was fixty, and had nine children -, he faw to 
 the lalt without fpectacles •, had excellent teeth till within fix years 
 before his death, having left off tobacco, to which he attributed 
 their prefervation : at length, in 1770, yielded to fate, after hav- 
 ing completed his hundred and thirty-fecond year. 
 
 Native gold has been frequently found in this tract, in the 
 
 gravel beneath the peat, from which it was warned by rains, and 
 
 collected in the gullies by perfons who at different times have 
 
 employed themfelves in fearch of this precious metal : but of 
 
 late years thefe adventurers have fcarce been able to procure a 
 
 livelyhood. I find in a little book, printed in 1710, called Mif- 
 
 Scoiica *, that in old times much gold was collected in dif- 
 
 ent parts of Scotland. In the reign of James IV, the Scots did 
 
 .rate the gold from the fand by warning. In the following, 
 
 the Germans found gold there, which afforded the king great 
 
 (urns : three hundred men were employed for feveral Summers, 
 
 • For a further account of gold found in Scotland, fee p. 414 of the 2d part 
 of this Tour. 
 
 and
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 and about ioo,coo/. flerling procured. They did not diipofe of 
 it in Scotland, but carried it into Germany. The fame writer fays, 
 that the Laird of Marcbefton got gold in Pentland hills •, that fome 
 was found in Langham waters, fourteen miles from Leadhiil houfe ; 
 in Meggot waters, twelve miles ; and Phinland, fixteen miles. He 
 adds, that pieces of gold, mixed with fpar and other fubftances, 
 that weighed thirty ounces were found j but the largeit piece I have 
 heard of does not exceed an ounce and a half, and is in the pofTeflion 
 of Lord Hopetoun, the owner of thefe mines. 
 
 Continue my journey through dreary glens or melancholy hills, 
 yet not without feeing numbers offheep. Near the fmall village 
 of Crawford John, procured a guide over five miles of almoft path- 
 lefs moors, and defcend into Douglafdale, watered by the river that 
 gives the name •, a valley diftinguifhed by the refidence of the 
 family of Douglas, a race of turbulent heroes, celebrated through- 
 out Europe for deeds of arms -, the glory, yet the fcourge of their 
 country ; the terror of their princes ; the pride of the Northern 
 annals of chivalry. 
 
 They derive their name from Sholto Du glaffe, or the black and 
 grey warrior (as their hiftory * relates) a hero in the reign of Sol- 
 vathius, King of Scotland, who lived in the eighth century : with 
 more certainty, a fuccefibr of his, of the name of William, went 
 into Italy in queft of adventures, and from him defcended the fa- 
 mily of the Scott of Placentia f, that flourifhed in the laft age, 
 and may to this time continue there. But the Douglajfes firfl 
 began to rife into power in the days of the good Sir James % 
 
 * Hume's hill, of the houfes of Douglas, 3. f Idem. p. 5. 
 
 S 2 who 
 
 ill
 
 1*2 
 
 A 
 
 OUR 
 
 Douglas castle. 
 
 who died in 1330. During a century and a half their great- 
 nefs knew no bounds •, and their arrogance was equally unlimited : 
 that high fpirit, which was wont to be exerted againft the enemies 
 of their country, now degenerated into faction, fedition and trea- 
 fon : they emulated the royal authority •, they went abroad with 
 a train of two thoufand armed men •, created knights, had their 
 counlellors, eitablifhed ranks, and constituted a * parlement : it is 
 certain that they might almoft have formed a houfe of peers out 
 cf their own family; for. at the fame time there were not fewer 
 than fix Earls of the name of Douglas -f-. They gave fhelter to 
 the moft barbarous banditti, and protected them in the greateft 
 crimes •, for, as honeft Lindefay exprefTes, 4 Oppreffion, ravifhing 
 of women, facrilege, and all other kinds of mifchief, were but 
 a dalliance : fo it was thought leifome to a depender on a 
 Douglas to flay or murder, for fo fearful was their name, and 
 terrible to every innocent man„ that when a. mifchievous limmer 
 was apprehended, if he alledged that he murdered and flew at 
 a Douglas's, command, no man durfl prefent him to juftice j\ 
 Douglas caflle, the refidence of thefe Reguli, feems to have 
 been proftrated almoft as frequently as its mafters : the ruin that 
 is feen there at prefent is the remains of the laft old caflle, for 
 many have been built on the fame fite. The prefent is an im- 
 perfect pile, begun by the late Duke : in the front are three 
 round towers y beneath the bafe of one lies the noble founder, 
 and the tears of the country painted above. He was interred 
 
 * Buchanan, mum Scot. lib. xi. feft. 9. 
 •£ Camden Br -W, 121 1. J p. 
 
 26, 
 
 there
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 there by his own directions, through the vain fear of mingling his 
 allies with thofe of an injured dead. 
 
 The windows are gothic : the apartments are fitting up with 
 great elegance, which mew that the ftorms of ambition have been 
 laid, and that a long calm of eafe and content is intended to 
 fucceed. 
 
 The infcription on the foundation ftone of the prefent caflle 
 deferves prefervation, as it gives a little of the hiitory : 
 
 Hoc latus 
 
 Hujus munitiffimi Praedii 
 
 Familiae de Douglas 
 
 Ter folo Jequati 
 
 Et femel atque iterum inftaurati 
 
 Imperantibus 
 
 Edwardo primo Anglic 
 
 Et apud Scotos Roberto 
 
 primum fie didlo 
 Tandem furgere cspit 
 Novis munitionibus firmatum 
 Juflu et fumptibus 
 Serenifliini et potentiflimi Archibaldi 
 Ducis de Douglas, &c. &c. 
 Principis familiae ejus nominis 
 In Scotd antiquiffimaa 
 Et maxime notabilis 
 Anno Christi 
 MDCCLVII. 
 
 Near the caftle are feveral very antient afh trees, whofe branches 
 groaned under the weight of executions when the family knew no 
 law but its will. 
 
 In- 
 
 m
 
 1.34 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 Tombs of the In the church were depofited the remains of feveral of this 
 
 Douglasses. ^^ name# pjrfl- appears the effigies of good Sir James, the 
 
 molt diftinguifhed of the houfe, the favorite of Robert Bruce, 
 
 and the knight appointed as moil worthy to carry his mailer's 
 
 heart to be interred beneath the high altar in the temple of Jeru- 
 
 falem. He let out, attended with a train of two hundred knights 
 
 and gentlemen, having the gold box, containing the royal heart, 
 
 fuipended from his neck. He firft put into the port of Sluys, on 
 
 the coaft of Flanders, where he flayed for twelve days, living on 
 
 board in regal pomp (for he did not deign to land) and all his 
 
 veflels were of gold *. Here he was informed, that Alphonfo, King 
 
 of Spain, was engaged in war with the Saracen King of Grenada : 
 
 not to lole this blefted opportunity of righting againil the enemies 
 
 of the crofs, he and his knights failed inltantly for Valentia, was 
 
 moll honorably received by the Spanijh monarch, luckily found 
 
 him on the point of giving battle ; engaged with great valour, was 
 
 furrounded by the infidels, flain in the fight, and the heart of 
 
 Robert Bruce, which was happily refcued, inftead of vifiting the 
 
 Holy Land, was carried to the convent of Metros, and the body of 
 
 Sir James to this church ; where his figure lies crofs-legged, his 
 
 holinefs having decreed that fervices againfl the infidels in Spain 
 
 mould have equal merit with thole performed in Palejline. 
 
 Near him, beneath a magnificent tomb, lies Archibald firft 
 Earl of Bouglafs, and fecond Duke of Terouan, in France ; his 
 father, flain at the battle of Verneuil, being honored by the French 
 King with that title. He lies in his ducal robes and coronet. 
 
 • Froitfart, lib. I, c. 21. 
 
 This
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 This Earl lived quite independent of his Prince, James I, and 
 through refentment to the minifter, permitted the neighboring 
 thieves of Annandale to lay wafte the country, when his power, 
 perhaps equal to the regal, might have fuppreifed their barbarity. 
 He died in 1438. 
 
 The Douglajfes and Percies were rivals in deeds of arms ; and 
 fortune, as ufual, fmiled or frowned alternately on each of thefe 
 potent families. 
 
 James the fat, feventh Earl of Douglas, next appears in effigy 
 on another tomb : a peaceable chieftain, who feems to have been 
 in too good cafe to give any diflurbance to the common-wealth. 
 He died in 1443 '» anc ^ ms ^dy* Beatrix de Sinclair, lies by him. 
 Their offspring is alfo enumerated in the infcription. 
 
 Ride for fome time in Douglafdale, a tract deficient in wood, 
 but of great fertility : the foil fine, and of an uncommon depth ; 
 yielding fine barley and oats, moft flovenly kept, and full of weeds : 
 the country full of gentle rifings. Arrive in a flat extent of 
 ground, defcend to the river Clyde, crofs a bridge of three arches, 
 afcend a fleep road, and reach 
 
 Lanerk : a town that gives name to the county. Here the Lanerk, 
 
 gallant Wallace made his firft effort to redeem his country from 
 the tyranny of the Englijh -, taking the place and flaying the go- 
 vernor, a man of rank *. The caflle flood on a mount on the 
 S. fide of the town ; and not far to the Eaft, is a ruined church, 
 perhaps belonging to the convent of Francifcans, founded by Robert 
 Bruce, in 1314. 
 
 * Buchanan, lib. viii. C. i8# 
 
 Not 
 
 135
 
 136 A TOUR 
 
 Falls of the Not very far from Lanerk are the celebrated falls of the Clyde: 
 
 the moft diftant are about a half hour's ride, at a place called 
 Cory-Lin. Cory Lin \ and are feen to mod advantage from a ruinous pavil- 
 lion in a gentleman's garden, placed in a lofty fituation. The 
 cataract is full in view, ktn over the tops of trees and bullies, 
 precipitating itfelf, for an amazing way, from rock to rock, with 
 fhort interruptions, forming a rude Hope of furious foam. The 
 fides are bounded by vaft rocks, cloathed on their tops with trees : 
 on the fummit and very verge of one is a ruined tower, and in 
 front a wood, over-topt by a verdant hill. 
 
 A path conduces the traveller down to the beginning of the 
 fall, into which projects a high rock, in floods infulated by the 
 waters, and from the top is a tremendous view of the furious 
 dream. In the clifts ot this favage retreat the brave Wallace is 
 faid to have concealed himfelf, meditating revenge for his injur'd 
 country. 
 
 On regaining the top the walk is formed near the verge of the 
 rocks, which on both fides are perfectly mural and equidiftant, 
 except where they over-hang ; the river is pent up between them 
 at a diftance far beneath •> not running, but rather Aiding along a 
 ftoney bottom Hoping the whole way. The fummits of the 
 rock are wooded ; the fides fmooth and naked ; the ftrata nar- 
 row and regular, forming a ftupendous natural mafonry. After 
 a walk of above half a mile on the edge of this great chafm, on 
 Boniton, a fudden appears the great and bold fall of Boniton, in a foam- 
 
 ing meet, far-projecting into a hollow, in which the water fhews 
 a violent agitation, and a far extending mift arifes from the fur- 
 face. Above that is a fecond great fall ; two leffer fucceed : be- 
 yond
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 >J7 
 
 yond them the river winds, grows more tranquil, and is feert 
 for a confiderable way, bounded on one fide • by wooded banks, 
 on the other by rich and fwelling fields. 
 
 Return the fame way to Lanerk : much barley, oats, peas and 
 potatoes are raifed about the town, and fome wheat : the manure 
 moft in uie is a white marie, full of fhells, found about four 
 feet below the peat, in a ftratum five feet and a half thick : it 
 takes effect after the firft year, and produces vaft crops. Num- 
 bers of horfes are bred here, which at two years old are fent to 
 the marines of Air/hire, where they are kept till they are fit for ufe. 
 
 Again pafs over the bridge of Lanerk, in order to vifit the J. UNE 9* 
 
 great fall of Stone biers, about a mile from the town : this has Stone-biers. 
 more of the horrible in it than either of the other two, and is 
 (een. with more difficulty : it confifts of two precipitous cataracts 
 falling one above the other into a vaft chafm, bounded by lofty 
 rocks, forming an amazing theatre to the view of thofe who take 
 the pains to defcend to the bottom. Between this and Cory-Lin 
 is another fall called Dundoffiin, but being fatiated for this time 
 with the noife of waters, we declined the fight of it. 
 
 Return over the bridge, and walk to Cartland-crags : a zig-zag Cartland* 
 den of great extent, bounded by rocks of a very uncommon crags. 
 
 height, and almofl entirely cloathed with trees. It is a place of 
 laborious accefs from above, fo difficult is it amidft the made of 
 trees to find a way free from precipice. The bottom is watered 
 by the river Moufe; and the fides, at every fhort turn, finely va- 
 ried with the different appearance of rock, wood and precipice. 
 Emerge into the open fpace -> remount our horfes, and ride for 
 fome miles along a rich vale, with the Clyde pafiing along the bot- 
 
 X torn :
 
 I3 S A T O U R 
 
 torn : all parts are rich in corn, meadows, orchards and groves. 
 Crofs the Nathan. At Nathan foot, gain the heights, which are 
 far lefs fertile ; and, after going over the river Avon, reach the 
 town of Hamilton. 
 Hamilton. The original name of this place, or the lands about it, was 
 
 Cadzow, or Cadyow, a barony granted to an anceftor of the no- 
 ble owner on the following occafion : In the time of Edw. II, lived 
 Sir Gilbert de Hamilton, or Hampton *, an Englijhman of rank ; 
 who, happening at court to fpeak in praife of Robert Bruce, re- 
 ceived on the occafion an infult from John de Spenfer, Chamber- 
 lain to the King •, whom he fought and flew : dreading the re- 
 lentment of that potent family -j-, he fled to the Scottijh monarch,, 
 who received him with open arms, and eftablifhed him at the 
 place the family now poflefles : whofe name in after-times was 
 changed from that of Cadzow to Hamilton -, and in 1445 the lands 
 were erected into a lordfhip, and the then owner, Sir James, fat 
 in parlement as Lord Hamilton. 
 
 The fame nobleman founded the collegiate church at Hamilton 
 in 1 45 1, for a provoft and feveral prebendaries. The endow- 
 ment was ratified at Rome by the Pope's bull, which he went in 
 perfon to procure j;. 
 
 The old caftle of Hamilton, being pofieflfed by certain of the 
 name who had been guilty of the deaths of the Earls of Lenox and 
 Murray, was on the 19th of May IS19 furrendered ; and by the 
 order of the king and council, entirely demolifhed ||. 
 
 * In Lticefterjhire, vide Burton's Hift. of that county, p. 126. 
 f Buchanan, viii. c. 49. % Crawford's peerage, 119, 
 
 l| Moy/eu 34. 
 
 Hamilton
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 
 
 Hamilton houfe, or palace, is at the end of the town : a large 
 dii agreeable pile, with two deep wings at right angles with the 
 centre : the gallery is of great extent, furnifhed (as well as fome 
 other rooms) with moft excellent paintings : 
 
 That of Daniel in the lions den, by Rubens, is a great per- Pictures. 
 formance : the fear and devotion of the prophet is finely exprefs'd 
 by the uplifted face and eyes, his clafped hands, his fwelling 
 mufcles, and the violent extenfion of one foot : a lion looks 
 fiercely at him, with open mouth, and feems only reftrained by 
 the Almighty Power from making him fall a victim to his 
 hunger : and the deliverance of Daniel is more fully marked by 
 the number of human bones fcattered over the floor, as if to fhew 
 the inftant fate of others, in whofe favor the Deity did not in- 
 terfere. 
 
 The marriage feaft, by Paul Veronefe, is a fine piece ; and the 
 obftinacy and refiflance of the intruder, who came without the 
 wedding garment, is ftrongly exprefTed. 
 
 The treaty of peace between England and Spain, in the reign of 
 James I, by Juan de Pantoxa, is a good historical picture. There 
 are fix envoys on the part of the Spaniards, and five on that of 
 the Englijh, with the names inferibed over each : the Englijh are 
 the Earls of Dorfet, Nottingham, Devon/hire, Northampton, and 
 Robert Cecil. 
 
 Earls of Lauderdale and Lanerk fettling the covenant j both in 
 black, with faces full of puritanical folemnity. 
 
 James, Marquis of Hamilton, and Earl of Cambridge, in black, 
 by Vanfomer. This nobleman was high in favor with James VI. 
 Knight of the Garter, Lord High Steward of the Houfhold, and 
 
 T 2 Lord 
 
 *39
 
 A TOUR 
 
 Lord High Commiflioner of the Parlement •, and Co much in the 
 efteem and affection of his matter as to excite thejealouiy of Buck- 
 ingham. He died in 1625, at the early age of thirty-three. Such 
 fymptoms * attended his death, that the public attributed it to poi- 
 fon, and afcribed the infamy to the Duke. 
 
 His fon James, Duke of Hamilton, with a blue ribband and. 
 white rod. A principal leader of the prefbyterian party in the 
 time of Charles I, dark, uncommunicative, cunning. He ma- 
 naged the truft repofed in him in fuch a manner as to make his 
 politics fufpected by each faction : and notwithstanding he was 
 brouo-ht up in the fchool of Gujla-vus Adolphus in a military capa- 
 city, his conduct was ftill more contemptible : he ruined the army 
 he faintly led into England, rather to make his royal mailer fub- 
 iervient to the defign of the Scots, than to do his majefty any real 
 fervice. Was fhamefully taken, and ended his days upon a 
 fcaffold. 
 
 Next to his is the portrait of his brother, and fucceilor to the title,- 
 William Earl of Lanerk -, who behaved at the battle of IVorceJler with 
 genuine heroifm, was mortally wounded, and died with every fenti- 
 ment of calmnefs and piety ; regretting the enthufiafm of his younger 
 days, and his late appearance in the royal caufe. 
 
 James Duke of Rami It on, who fell in the duel with Lord Mohun. 
 The firft a leader of the tory party in the reign of Queen Anne ; the 
 laft a ftrong whig :. each combattant fell ; whether the Duke died 
 by the hands of an arTaflin fecond, or whether he fell by thofe of his 
 antagonift, the violence of party leaves no room to determine. 
 
 * Wil/on, 2S5. 
 
 Next.
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 Next appears a full length, the fineit portrait in this kingdom : a 
 nobleman in red filk jacket and trowfers •, his hair fhort and grey ; 
 a gun in his hand, attended by an Indian boy, and with Indian 
 icenery around : the figure feems perfectly to itart from the canvas, 
 and the action of his countenance, looking up, has matchiefs fpirit. 
 It is called the portrait of William Earl of Denbigh, mifcalled Gover- 
 nor of Barbaboes. His daughter married the firftduke of Hamilton, 
 which ftrengthens the opinion of its being that of her father. 
 The painter feems to have been Rubens : but from what circum- 
 ftance of his lordfhip's life he placed him in an Indian foreft, is not 
 known. 
 
 The old Duke of Chatelherault, in black, with the order, I think, 
 of St. Michael, pendent from his neck •, which he accepted with the 
 title, and a penfion, from Francis I, of France, at the time he was 
 Earl of Arran, and Regent of Scotland. He was declared next in 
 fucceffion to the crown, in cafe of failure of heirs in Mary Stuart : a 
 rank that his feeble and unfteady conduct would have difabled him 
 from filling with dignity. 
 
 A head of Catherine Parr, on wood ; by Holbein. 
 
 Another, faid to have been that of Anne Bullen : very handfome ;. 
 dreffed in a ruff and kerchief, edged with ermine, and in a purple 
 gown : over her face a veil, fo tranfparent as not to conceal 
 
 The bloom of young defire and purple light of love. 
 
 Maria Dei Gratia Scoter um Regina. 1586. at. 43. A half length : 
 a ftiff figure, in a great ruff, auburne locks, oval but pretty full 
 face, of much larger and plainer features than that at caflle Braan ; 
 a natural alteration, from the increafe of her cruel ufage, and of 
 
 her 
 
 141
 
 142 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 her ill health : yet ftill preferves a likenefs to that portrait. I was 
 told here that fhe fent this picture, together with a ring, a little 
 before her execution, to the reprefentative of the Hamilton family, 
 as an acknowlegement of gratitude for their fufferings in her 
 caufe. 
 
 Earl Morton, Regent of Scotland : a nobleman of vail but abufed 
 abilities; rapacious, licentious, unprincipled; reftrained by no 
 confideration from gaining his point •, intrepid till the lalt hour of 
 his being, when he fell on the fcaffold with thofe penitential 
 horrors * that the enormous wickednefs of his pad life did naturally 
 infpire. 
 
 The rough reformer, John Knox ; a fevere reprover of the former. 
 The Earl, at the funeral of Knox, in a few words delivered this honor- 
 able teflimony of his fpirit : " There lies he who never feared the 
 " face of man." 
 
 Alexander Henderfon : a vain, infolent and bufy minifter during the 
 troubles of Charles I. who was deputed by his brethren to perfuade 
 his Majefty to extirpate epifcopacy out of Scotland : but the King, 
 an equal bigot, and better cafuift, filenced his arguments ; and Hen- 
 derfon, chagrined with his ill fuccefs, retired, and died of a broken 
 heart. 
 
 A head of Hobbs (as a contraft to the two former) with Ihort thin 
 grey hair. 
 
 Lord Belhaven, author of the famous fpeech againft the union. 
 
 Philip II. a full length, with a ftrange figure of Fame bowing at 
 his feet, with a label, and this motto, Pro merente adjlo. 
 
 • Spot/wood, 314* Lives of the Douglajfes, 356. 
 
 Two
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 Two half-lengths, in black, one with a fiddle in his hand, the 
 other in a grotefque attitude, both with the fame countenances 
 good, but fwarthy ; miftakenly called David Rizzo's, but I could not 
 learn that there was any portrait of that unfortunate man. 
 
 Irrefiftible beauty brings up the rear, in form of Mils Mary 
 Scott, a full length, in white fattin ; a mod elegant figure : and 
 thus concludes the lift with what is more powerful than all that has 
 preceded ; than the arms of the warrior, the art of the poli- 
 tician, the admonitions of the churchman, or the wifdom of the 
 philofopher. 
 
 About a mile from the houfe, on an eminence, above a deep 
 wooded glen, with the Avon at the bottom, is Chatelherault, fo called 
 from the eftate the family once pofTeffed in France : is an elegant 
 banqueting-houfe, with a dog-kennel, gardens, &c. and commands 
 a fine view. The park is now much inclofed ; but I am told there 
 are ftill in it a few of the wild cattle of the fame kind with thofe I 
 faw at Drumlanrig. 
 
 Continue my journey : crofs the Clyde at Botbwell bridge, noted Bothwell 
 for the defeat of a fmall army of enthufiafts, in 1679, near the bridc e- 
 
 place, by the Duke of Monmouth, who diftinguilhed himfelf that 
 day more by his humanity, than his conduct. ; but it is probable 
 he difliked a fervice againft men to whofe religious principles he 
 had no averfion : he might likewife aim at future popularity in the 
 country. 
 
 Bothwell church was collegiate, founded by Archibald the grim, Church, 
 Earl of Douglas, in 1398, for a provoft and eight prebendaries. The 
 outfide is faid to be incrufted with a thin coat of ftone, but I confefs 
 it efcaped my notice. In it are interred the founder and his lady, 
 
 daughter 
 
 *•.-;.
 
 144 
 
 OUR 
 
 daughter of Andrew Murray, fon to King David Bruce, with whom 
 he got the lordfhip ot Botbivell. 
 Castlb. The cattle, now in ruins, is beautifully feated on the banks of 
 
 the Clyde : tradition and hiftory are filent about the founder. It is 
 laid to have been a principal reft lence of the Douglajfes \ and while 
 Edward I. was in polTeflion of Scotland, was the chief ftation of his 
 governor ; and after the battle of Bannock-bourne, was the prifon 
 of fome of the Englijh nobility taken in that fatal field. Major * 
 fays, that in 1337 it was taken by the partizans of David Bruce, 
 and levelled to the ground. That feems a favorite phrafe of the 
 hiitorian •, for to me it appears to be in the fame itate with that 
 of Caerlaveroc, and was only difmantled ; for in both, fome of the 
 remaining towers have all the marks of the early ftyle of building. 
 
 On the South fide of the Clyde, oppofite to the cattle, are the re- 
 mains of Blantyre, a priory of canons regular, founded before the year 
 1296; mention being made in that year of Frere William Priour de 
 Blantyr f. 
 
 The country from Bothwcll bridge is open, very fertile, compofed 
 of gentle rifmgs, diverfified with large plantations. Reach 
 Glasgow. Glasgow j the beft built of any fecond-rate city I ever faw : the 
 
 houfes of ftone, and in general well built, and many in a good tafte, 
 plain and unaffected. The principal ftreet runs Eatt and Weft, is 
 near a mile and a half long, but unfortunately not ftrait •, yet the 
 view from the crofs, where the two other great ftreets fall into this, 
 Tolbooth. has an air of vaft magnificence. The Tolbooth is large and handfome, 
 with this apt motto on the front : 
 
 • P. 232. f Keith, 239. 
 
 Hzc
 
 T N SCOTLAND: 145 
 
 Hsec domus odit, amat, punit, confervat, honorat, 
 nequidam, pacem, crimina, jura, probos. 
 
 Next to that is the exchange : within is afpacious room, with full- 
 length portraits of all our monarchs fince James I, and an excellent 
 one, by Ramfay, of Archibald, Duke of ' Argyk, in his robes as Lord of 
 Seffions. Before the exchange is a large equeftrian ftatue of King 
 William. This is the fineft and broadeft part of the flreet : many of 
 the houfes are built over arcades, but too narrow to be walked in with 
 any conveniency. Numbers of other neat flreets crofs this at right 
 angles. 
 
 The market-places are great ornaments to the city, the fronts Market-places. 
 being done in very fine tafte, and the gates adorned with columns 
 of one or other of the orders. Some of thefe markets are for 
 meal, greens, filh or flefli : there are two for the laft which have 
 conduits of water out of feveral of the pillars, fo that they are 
 conftantly kept fweet and neat. Before thefe buildings were con- 
 flicted, molt of thofe articles were fold in the public flreets ; and 
 even after the market-places were built, the magiftrates with great 
 difficulty compelled the people to take advantage of fuch cleanly 
 innovations. 
 
 Near the meal-market is the public granary, to be filled on any 
 apprehenfion of fcarcity. 
 
 The guard-houfe is in the great ftreet •, where the inhabitants 
 mount guard, and regularly do duty. An excellent police is ob- 
 ferved here; and proper officers attend the markets to prevent 
 abufes. 
 
 The police of Glafgow confifts of three bodies ; the magiftrates Police, 
 with the town-council, the merchants houfe, and the trades houfe. 
 
 U The
 
 1 46 A T O U R 
 
 Magistrates. The lord provoft, three bailies, a dean of guild, a deacon convener, 
 a treafurer, and twenty-five council-men, compofe the firft. It muft 
 be obferved that the dean of guild is chofen annually, and can con- 
 Merchants tinue in office but two years. The fecond confifrs of thirty-fix 
 merchants, annually elected, with the provoft and three bailies, by 
 virtue of their office, which make the whole body forty. The dean 
 of guild is head of this houfe, who, in conjunction with his council, 
 four merchants, and four tradefmen (of which the preceding dean is 
 to be one) holds a court every Tburfday, where the parties only are 
 Dean of Guild, admitted to plead, all lawyers being excluded. He and his council 
 have power to judge and decree in all actions refpecting trade be- 
 tween merchant and merchant •, and thofe who refufe to fubmit to 
 their decifions are liable to a fine of five pounds. The fame officer 
 and his council, with the matter of work, can determine all difputes 
 about boundaries, and no proceedings in building mall be flopped, 
 except by him -, but the plaintiff mud lodge a fufficient fum in his 
 hands to fatisfy the defendant, in cafe the firft fhould lay a ground- 
 lefs complaint : and, to prevent delay, the dean and his affiflants 
 are to meet on the fpot within twenty-four hours -, and to prevent 
 frivolous difputes, mould the plaintiff be found not to have been ag- 
 grieved, he is fined in twenty millings, and the damage fuftained 
 by the delay : but again, fhould he imagine himfelf wronged by 
 the decifion, he has power (after lodging forty millings in the 
 hands of the dean) of appealing to the great council of the city ; 
 and in cafe they alfo decide againft him, the fum is forfeited and 
 applied as the dean fhall think fit. The fame magistrate is alfo to 
 fee that no encroachments are made on the public ftreets : he can 
 order any old houfes to be pulled down that appear dangerous 5, 
 
 and,.
 
 HV 
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 and, I think, has alfo power in fome places, of difpofing of, to the 
 belt bidder, the ground of any houfes which the owner iuffers to lie 
 in ruins for three years, without attempting to rebuild. Befides 
 thefe affairs, he fnperintends the weights and meafures ; puniffoes 
 and fines tranfgrefibrs •, fines all unqualified perfons who ufurp the 
 privileges of freemen ; admits burgeiTes : the fines to aliens is ioo /. 
 Scotch : and finally he and his council may levy a tax on the guild- 
 brethren (not exceeding the above-mentioned fum at a time) for the 
 maintenance of the wives and children of decayed brethren : the 
 money to be distributed at the difcretion of the dean, his council 
 and the deacon convener. 
 
 The third body is the trades-houfe : this confifts of fifty-fix, of Trades-houjb. 
 which the deacon convener is the head : there are fourteen incor- 
 porated trades, each of which has a deacon, who has a right to 
 nominate a certain number of his trade, fo as to form the houfe: 
 thefe manage a large flock, maintain a great number of poor, 
 and determine difputes between the trades. In this place may be 
 mentioned, that the merchants hofpital, founded by the merchants 
 of Glafgow in j6oi, has a large capital to fupport the poor : that 
 the to wn'^ hofpital contains four hundred indigent, and is fupported 
 by the magistrates and town-council, the merchants houfe, the 
 trades houfe, and the kirk fefiions. Hutcbinfon's hofpital, founded 
 in 1 642 by two brothers of that name, has a fund of twelve thoufand 
 pounds : the town-council a revenue of fix thoufand pounds per 
 annum. 
 
 The old bridge over the Clyde confifts of eight arches, and was Bridges. 
 built by William Rea, bifhop of this fee, about four hundred years 
 
 U 2 ago,
 
 i 4 S A T O U R 
 
 ago. A new one has been lately added of {even arches, with cir- 
 cular holes between each to carry oft" the fuperfluous waters in the 
 great floods. This bridge deviates from the original plan, which 
 was very elegant, and free from certain defects that difgrace the 
 prefent. 
 Clyde. The city of Glafgow, till very lately, was perfectly tantalized with 
 
 its river : the water was mallow, the channel much too wide for the 
 ufual quantity of water that flowed down, and the navigation inter- 
 rupted by twelve remarkable flioals. The fecond inconveniency 
 continually increafed by the wearing away of the banks, caufed by 
 the prevalency of the South- Weft winds that blow- here, and often 
 with much violence, during more than half the year : thus what 
 is got in breadth, is loft in depth-, and fhoals are formed by 
 the lofs of water in the more contracted bed. Spring-tides do not 
 flow above three feet, or neap tides above one, at Broomy -law -quay, 
 clofe to the town ; fo that in dry feafons lighters are detained there 
 forfeveral weeks, or are prevented from arriving there, to the great 
 detriment of the city. 
 
 To remedy this evil, the city called in feveral engineers : at length 
 the plan propofed by my old friend, Mr. John Golburne, of Chcjler, 
 that honeft and able engineer, was accepted, and he entered into con- 
 tract with the magistrates of Glafgow to deepen the channel to feven 
 feet at the quay, even at neap-tides. He has made confiderable 
 progrefs in the work, and has given the Stipulated depth to within 
 four miles of the place. For a prefent relief he has deepened the 
 intermediate flioals, and particularly he has given at left four feet of 
 water immediately below the quay, in a fhoal called the Htirft, which 
 was above a quarter of a mile long, and had over it only eighteen 
 
 inches
 
 IN SCOTLAND. ug 
 
 inches of water. Before this improvement lighters of only thirty 
 tuns burden could reach the quay: at prefent veiTels of feventy 
 come there with eafe. 
 
 Near the bridge is the large alms-houfe, a vaft nailery, a ftone- 
 ware manufactory, and a great porter brewery, which fupplies 
 fome part of Ireland*: befides thefe are manufactures of lin- 
 nens, cambricks, lawns, fuftians, tapes, and ftriped linnens ; 
 fugar-houfes and glafs-houfes, great roperies; vaft manufactures 
 of fhoes, boots and laddies, and all forts of horfe furniture: 
 alfo vail tanneries carried on under a company who have 60,000 /. 
 capital, chiefly for the ufe of the colonifts, whofe bark is found 
 unfit for tanning. The magazine of faddles, and other works 
 reflecting that bufinefs, is an amazing fight : all thefe are de- 
 ftined for America, no port equalling this for the conveniency 
 of fituation, and fpeedily fupplying that market. Within fight, on 
 the Renfrew fide, are collieries, and much coal is exported into Ire- 
 land, and into America. 
 
 The great import of this city is tobacco: the following. ftate of Tobacco tra-ds. 
 that trade, for the three laft years, exhibits its vaft extent and im- 
 portance : 
 
 * Dublin 13 extremely capable of fupplying Ireland with this liquor, but 
 as I am credibly informed, is almoft prohibited the attempt by a hard and 
 unpolitical tax. 
 
 From 
 
 \
 
 150 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 1769. J 77Q- 
 
 From Virginia, 2 5457 hogfheads. 29815 
 
 Maryland, 9641 8242 
 
 Carolina, 460 9 1 3 
 
 Total, 3555H 38970 
 
 So that it appears the increafe of importation from Virginia, in 
 1770, was 4358 hogfh. and from Carolina, 453, and that it decreafed 
 in Maryland, 1399. But what is remarkable, that in the fame year 
 not any part of this vail Itock remained uniold j the whole being 
 difpofed or in the following proportions ; 
 
 hogfh. hogfh. 
 
 To Ireland, 3310 Bremen, 1303 
 
 France, 15706 Spain, &c. 885 
 
 Holland, 10637 Norway, 557 
 
 Dunkirk, 2907 Denmark, 200 
 
 Hamburgh, 2416 America, 16 
 
 Total exported - - - - 37938 
 Which, with 1032, fold inland, balances the account. 
 
 In the laft year 177 1, the commerce ftill improved, for from 
 
 hogfh. 
 Virginia, 35493 
 
 Maryland, 12530 
 
 Carolina^ 993 
 
 Total, 49016 
 
 The
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 The exports alfo increafed, but not in the fame proportion with 
 thofe of lafl year : 
 
 Ireland took 3509 hogfh. Bremen, 
 
 151 
 
 France, 
 Holland, 
 Dunkirk, 
 Hamburg, 
 
 16098 
 14546 
 
 53°9 
 
 2788 
 
 Norway, 
 Denmark, 
 
 Spain, &c 
 Barbadoes, 
 
 Total, 
 Sold inland, 
 
 So that this year it appears that there is unfold, 
 To balance the great fum of, 
 
 1176 
 66 5 
 
 39° 
 
 297 
 21 
 
 44799 
 1142 
 
 4594i 
 3°75 
 
 49016 
 
 But this encouraging inference may be drawn : that, notwith- 
 standing all our fquabbles with the colonies, thofe of the firft im- 
 portance improve in their commerce with their mother country : 
 receive alfo an equal return in the manufactures of Great-Britain, 
 which they wifely difpenfe to thofe whom unavailing affociations of 
 prohibition bind from an open traffick with us. 
 
 The origin of foreign trade in this great city is extremely wor- 
 thy of attention. A merchant, of the name of Walter Gib/on, by 
 an adventure firft laid the foundation of its wealth : about the 
 year 1668 he cured and exported in a Dutch veffel, 300 lafts of 
 herrings, each containing fix barrels, which he fent to St. Mar- 
 tin's, in France, where he got a barrel of brandy and a crown 
 £or each : the fhip returning, laden with brandy and fait, the cargo 
 
 was.
 
 *5* 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 was fold for a great fum : he then launched farther into bufinefs, 
 bought the veffel, and two large fhips befides, with which he traded 
 to different parts of Europe, and to Virginia : he alfo firft imported 
 iron to Glajgow, for before that time it was received from Sterling 
 and Bv.rroivjlonefs, in exchange for dyed fluffs : and even the wine 
 ufed in this city was brought from Edinburgh. Yet I find no 
 ftatue, no grateful infcription, to preierve the memory of V/alter 
 Gibfon ! 
 
 Glajgow, till long after the reformation, was confined to the ridge 
 that extends from the high-church, or cathedral, and the houfes tref- 
 paffed but little on the ground on each fide. Th ; s place (whofe inha- 
 bitants at this time are computed to be forty thouiand) was {o incon- 
 fiderable, in 1357, as not to be admitted into the number of the cau- 
 tionary towns afiigned toEdw. III. for the payment of the ranfome of 
 David II*. But the revenue of the archbifhop was, at the reformation, 
 little lei's than a thoufand pounds fterlingper annum, befides feveral 
 emoluments in corn of different kinds. Religion was, before that 
 period, the commerce of our chief cities ; in the fame manner as com- 
 merce is their religion in the prefent age. 
 The see. Some writers attribute the foundation of this fee to St. Kentigern, 
 
 in 560, and make him the firft bifhop : others will give him no other 
 rank than that of a fimpie faint. It is with more certainty known, 
 that the cathedral was founded or refounded, in 1136, by John, go- 
 vernor to David I, and who was the firft certain bifhop of the place; 
 for it was not erected into an archbiflioprick till 1 500, when Robert 
 Blacader had firft the title. 
 
 * Andtrfm\ Diet. Commerce, L 
 
 This
 
 IN SCOTLAND, 
 
 This fine church was devoted to deftruction by the wretched Cathedral 
 minifters of 1578, who affembled, by beat of drum, a multitude 
 to effect the demolition : but the trades of the city takino- arms, 
 declared that they would bury under the ruins the firft perfon who 
 attempted the facrilege ; and to this fenfible zeal are we indebted 
 for fo great an ornament to the place. It is at prefent divided into 
 three places for divine lervice; two above, one beneath, and deep 
 under ground, where the congregation may truly fay, clamavi ex 
 profundus. The roof of this is fine, of (lone, and fupported by 
 pillars, but much hurt by the crowding of the pews. 
 
 In the church yard is an epitaph on a jolly phyfician, whofe 
 practice mould be recommended to all fuch harbingers of death, 
 who by their terrific faces fcare the poor patient prematurely into 
 the regions of eternity : 
 
 Stay, pafTenger, and view this flone, 
 For under it lies fuch a one 
 Who cured many while he lived ; 
 So gratious he no man grieved : 
 Yea when his phyfick's force oft' failed, 
 His pleafant purpofe then prevailed ; 
 For of his God he got the grace 
 To live in mirth, and die in peace : 
 Heaven has his foule, his corps this flone j 
 Sigh, pafTenger, and then be gone. 
 Dottor Peter Low, 1612. 
 
 Befides this church are the College Church, Ramjhorn, Trone, St. 
 Andrews and Wint. The Englijh chapel, college chapel, a high- 
 land church, three feceding meeting-houfes, a Moravian, an in- 
 
 X dependent, 
 
 « S %
 
 154 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 dependent, a methodift, an anabaptift, a barony church, and one 
 in the fuburbs of the Gorbels. 
 
 But the mod beautiful is that of St. Andrew's, or the New- 
 Church, whofe front graced with an elegant portico, does the city- 
 great credit, if it had not been disfigured by a flender fquare 
 tower, with a pepper-box top ; and in general the fteeples in 
 Glafgow are in a remarkably bad tafte, being in fact no favorite 
 part of architecture with the church of Scotland. The infide of 
 that juft mentioned is finifhed not only with neatnefs but with ele- 
 gance ; is fupported by pillars, and very prettily ftuccoed. It is 
 one of the very few exceptions to the flovenly and indecent man- 
 ner in which the houfes of God, in Scotland, are kept : reforma- 
 tion, in matters of religion, feldom obferves mediocrity -, here it 
 was at firft outrageous, for a place commonly neat was deemed 
 to favor of popery : but to avoid the imputation of that extreme, 
 they ran into another; for in many parts of North-Britain our 
 Lord feems ftill to be worfhipped in a flable, and often in a very 
 wretched one : many of the churches are thatched with heath, and 
 in fome places are in fuch bad repair as to be half open at top ; fo 
 that the people appear to worfhip as the Druids did of old, in open 
 temples. It is but common juftice to fay, that this is no fault of 
 the clergy, or of the people, but entirely of the landed intereft ; 
 who having, at the reformation, fhared in the plunder of the 
 church, were burthened with the building and repairing of the 
 houfes of worfhip. It is too frequently the cafe, that the gentle- 
 men cannot be induced to undertake the mod common repairs, 
 without being threatened with a procefs before the lords of fefiions, 
 
 or
 
 IN SCOTLAND. , 5 
 
 or perhaps having the procefs a&ually made, which is attended 
 with odium, trouble and expence to the poor incumbents. 
 
 Near the cathedral is the ruin of the caftle, or the bifhop's Castle, 
 
 palace, the great tower was built by John Cameron, prelate iff 
 1426. Buchanan * relates an abfurd tale, that this bifhop was 
 lummoned to the great tribunal by a loud preternatural voice ; 
 that he aflembled his fervants, when to their great terror the call 
 was repeated ; and the bifhop died in great agonies. His offence 
 is concealed from us, for he appears to have been a good and 
 an able man. 
 
 Archbifhop Bethune furrounded the palace with a fine wall, 
 and made a baftion over one corner, and a tower over another. 
 This caftle was befieged in 1544, by the regent Arran, in the 
 civil difputes at that time ; who took it, and hanged eighteen of 
 the garrifon, placed there by Lenox, a favorer of the reformation. 
 
 In Glafgow were two religious houfes and an hofpital. One Rblicious 
 of Dominicans, founded by the bifhop and chapter in 1270, and houses. 
 
 another of Obfervantines in 1476, by John Laing, bifhop of Glaf- 
 gow, and Thomas Forfyth, rector of the college. 
 
 'The univerfity was founded in 1450, by James II. Pope Nicho- n 
 las V. gave the Bull, but bifhop Turnbull fupplied the money. 
 It confifts of one college, a large building with a handfome front 
 to the ftreet, refembling fome of the old colleges in Oxford, 
 Charles I. fubfcribed 200 1. towards this work, but was prevented 
 from paying it by the enfuing troubles ; but Cromwel afterwards 
 fulfilled the defign of the royal donor. Here are about four hun- 
 
 • Lib. xi. c. 25. 
 
 X 2 dred
 
 -56 
 
 OUR 
 
 BIBLE. 
 
 dred ftudents who lodge in the town, but the profeflbrs have 
 good houfes in the college, where young gentlemen may be boarded, 
 and placed more immediately under the profeflbrs eye, than 
 thofe that live in private houfes. An inconveniency that calls 
 loudly for reformation. 
 Library. The library is a very handfome room, with a gallery, fup- 
 
 ported by pillars ; and is well furniihed with books. That bene- 
 ficent nobleman, the firft Duke of Chandos, when he vifited the 
 college, gave 500 /. towards building this apartment. 
 Zach. Boyd's In poffeffion of the college is a very Angular verfion of the 
 
 bible, by the Rev. Zachary Boyd, a worthy, learned and pious 
 divine of this city, who lived about a century and a half ago* 
 and dying, bequeathed to this feminary of knowledge his fortune, 
 and all his manuicripts, but not on condition of printing his poem 
 as is vulgarly imagined. It is probable that he adapted his verfe to 
 the intellects of his hearers, the only excufe for the variety of grofs 
 imagery, of which part of the foliloquy of Jonas in the fifh's belly^ 
 will be thought a fufficient fpecimen.: 
 
 What houfe is this ? here's neither coal nor candle ; 
 
 Where I no thing but guts of fifhes handle. 
 
 I and my table are both here within, 
 
 Where day ne'er davvn'd, where fun did never mine. 
 
 The like of this on earth man never faw, 
 
 A living man within a monfter's maw ! 
 
 Burryed under mountains, which are high and fleep ! 
 
 Plunged under waters hundred fathoms deep ! 
 
 Not fo was Noah in his houfe of tree, 
 
 For through a window he the light did fee : 
 
 m
 
 157 
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 He failed above the higheft waves : a wonder, 
 I and my boat are all the waters under ? 
 He and his ark might go and alfo come ; 
 But I fit ftill in fuch a ftrait'ned room 
 As is moft uncouth ; head and feet together, 
 Among fuch greafe as would a thoufand fmother ; 
 Where I intombed in melancholy fink, 
 Choaked, fuffocate with excremental ftink! 
 
 Mefirs. Robert and Andrew Fculis, printers and bookfellers to Acadbmy, 
 the univerfity, have inftituted an academy for painting and en- 
 graving ; and, like good citizens, zealous to promote the wel- 
 fare and honor of their native place, have, at vaft expence, 
 formed a moft numerous collection of paintings from abroad, in 
 order to form the tafte of their ekves. 
 
 The printing is a confiderable branch of bufinefs, and has long Printing. 
 been celebrated for the beauty of the types, and the correctnefs 
 of the editions. Here are preferved, in cafes, numbers of monu- Roman sculp* 
 mental, and other ftones, taken out of the wall on the Roman tvres, 
 
 ftations in this part of the kingdom : fome are well cut and or- 
 namented : moft of them were done to perpetuate the memory 
 of the vexillatio, or party, who performed fuch or fuch works ; 
 others in memory of officers who died in the country. Many of 
 thefe fculptures were engraven at the expence of the univerfity j 
 whofe principal did me the honor of prefenting me with a fet. 
 
 The i ft plate is very beautiful : a victory, reclined on a globe, 
 with a palm in one hand, a garland in the other ; a pediment 
 above, fupported by two fluted pilafters, with Corinthian capi- 
 tals : beneath is a boar, a common animal in fculptures found 
 
 in
 
 'A TOUR 
 
 in Britain, probably becaufe they were in plenty in our forefts. 
 Both thefe are in honor of the Emperor Antoninus Pius. 
 
 IS one is more inftructive than that engraven in plate III, on 
 which appears a Victory about to crown a Roman horfeman, armed 
 with a fpear and fhield. Beneath him are two Caledonian cap- 
 tives, naked, and bound, with their little daggers, like the mo- 
 dern dirks, by them. On another compartment of the ftone is 
 an eagle and fea-goat, to denote fome victory gained in the courfe 
 of their work near the fea : for it was devoted by a party of the 
 Legio fecunda Augujia, on building a certain portion of the wall. 
 
 The XVIth is monumental : the figure is very elegant, repre- 
 fenting one gracefully recumbent, drelTed in a loofe robe : beneath 
 is a wheel, denoting, that at the time of his death he was en- 
 gaged with a party on the road : and by him is an animal, re- 
 fembling the Mufimon or Siberian goat. 
 
 In this ftreet is the houle where Henry Daruly lodged, confined 
 by a dangerous illnefs, fufpected to arife from poifon, admini- 
 ilered at the inftigation of Bothwel. Here the unhappy prince 
 received a vifit from Mary Stuart, and took the fatal refolution 
 of removing to Edinburgh. This fudden return of her affection, 
 her blandifhments to enveigle him from his father and friends, 
 and his confequential murder, are circumftances unfavorable to 
 the memory of this unfortunate princefs. 
 June ii. Take boat at the quay ; and after a pafiage of four miles down 
 
 the Clyde, reach the little flying houfe of Mr. Golborne, now fixed 
 on the Northern bank, commanding a mod elegant view of part 
 of the county of Renfrew, the oppofite fhore. After breakfaft 
 furvey the machines for deepening the river, which were then at 
 
 work :
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 159 
 
 work : they are called ploughs, are large hollow cafes, the back 
 is of caft iron, the two ends of wood ; the other fide open. Thefe 
 are drawn crofs the river by means of capftons, placed on long 
 wooden frames or flats ; and oppofite to each other near the 
 banks of the river. Are drawn over empty, returned with the 
 iron fide downwards, which fcrapes the bottom, and brings up at 
 every return half a ton of gravel, depofiting it on the bank : and 
 thus twelve hundred tuns are cleared every day. Where the river 
 is too wide, the fhores are contracted by jetties. 
 
 Proceed down the river : on the left the water of Inchinnan 
 opens to view ; the profpect up the molt elegant and the fofteft 
 of any in North Britain : the expanfe is wide and gentle ; the one 
 bank bare, the other adorned with a fmall open grove. A little 
 ifle tufted with trees divides the water ; beyond the fine bridge of 
 Inchinnan receiving the united rivers of the white and black Cart, 
 and the town and fpire of Paijly, backed by a long and fertile 
 range of rifing land, clofe the fcene. 
 
 On the right is a chain of low hills, Camfey fells, running N. 
 W. and S. E. diverging N. E. and advancing to the water fide, 
 terminating with the rock of Dunbuc, that almoft reaches to the 
 Clyde. 
 
 Pafs under Kirkpatric, where the river is about a quarter of a Kirkpatric. 
 mile broad : at this place is a confiderable manufacture of all 
 forts of hufbandry tools, began about four years ago : but it is 
 far more celebrated for being the fuppofed termination of the 
 Roman wall, or Graham's dike, built under the aufpices of An- 
 toninus Pius. Not the left relique is to be feen here at prefent : 
 but about a mile and a half to the eaftward on a rifing ground 
 
 above
 
 160 A T O U R 
 
 above the bridge of the burn of Dalmure, near the village of 
 Duniocber, are the veftiges of a fort and watch-tower, with a very 
 deep fols. The houies in the village appear to have been formed 
 out of the ruins, for many of the ftones are fmoothed on the fide ; 
 and on one are the letters N. E. R. O, very legible. This wall was 
 o-uardedwith fmall forts from end to end, that is to fay from near 
 K.rkpatric to within two miles of Abercorn, or, as Bede calls it, 
 the monaftery of Abercurnig, on the Firth of Forth, a fpace of 
 thirty-fix miles eight hundred and eighty-feven paces : of thefe 
 forts ten are planned by the ingenious Mr. Gordon ; and num- 
 bers of the inferiptions found in them, engraven. This great 
 work was performed by the foldiery under Lollius Urbicus, Lieu- 
 tenant of Antoninus, in purfuance of the plan before pointed out 
 by the great Agricola, who garrifoned the whole fpace between the 
 two firths, removing, as it was, the barbarians into another 
 ifland *. 
 
 Ireland will fcarce forgive me if I am filent about the birth- 
 place of its tutelar faint. He firft drew breath at Kirkpatric, and 
 derived his name from his father, a noble Roman (a Patrician) 
 who fled hither in the time of perfecution. St. Patric took on 
 himfelf the charge of Ireland; founded there 365 churches, or- 
 dained 365 bifhops, 3000 priefts, converted 12000 perfons in one 
 diftrict, baptized feven kings at once, eftablifhed a purgatory, 
 and with his ftaff at once expelled every reptile that flung or 
 croaked. 
 Dunglas. Somewhat lower, on the fame fide, Dunglas projects into the 
 
 # Tacituf, 
 
 water,
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 161 
 
 water, and forms a round bay. On the point is a ruined fort, per- 
 haps on the fite of a Roman ; for probably the wall might have ended 
 here, as at this very place, the water is deep, and at all times unford- 
 able by foot or horfe. The fort was blown up in 1640, as fome fay, 
 by the defperate treachery of an Englijh boy, page to the Earl of 
 Haddington, who, with numbers of people of rank, were miferably 
 deftroyed *. Below this the river widens, and begins to have the 
 appearance of an asftuary : the fcene varies into other beauties ; the 
 hills are rocky, but cloathed at the bottom by ranges of woods, and 
 numbers of pretty villas grace the country. Dunbuc makes now a 
 confiderable figure : the plain of Dunbarton opens ; the vaft and 
 ftrange bicapitated rock, with the fortrefs, appears full in front ; 
 the town and its fpire beyond -, the fine river Leven on one fide, and 
 the vaft mountains above Loch-lomond, and the great bafe and foaring 
 top of Ben-lomond clofe the view. • 
 
 The Roman fleet in all probability, had its ftation under Dunbar- 
 ton : the Glota, or Clyde, has there fufficient depth of water ; the 
 place was convenient and fecure ; near the end of the wall ; and 
 covered by the fort at Dunglas : the Pharos on the top of the areat 
 rock is another ftrong proof that the Romans made it their harbour, 
 for the water beyond is impaflable for mips, or any veffels of large 
 burden. 
 
 After a long conteft with a violent adverfe wind, and very turbu- 
 lent water, pafs under, on the S. more, Newark ; a cancellated houfe, 
 with round towers. Vifit Port-Glafgow, a confiderable town, with Port-G.lascow. 
 a great pier, and numbers of large mips : dependent on Glafgow, a 
 
 * Wbitelock, 3 ; Crawford's Peerage, 1 82. 
 
 Y creation
 
 i62 A T O U R 
 
 creation of that city, fince the year 1668, when it was purchafed from 
 Sir Patrick Maxwell of Nav 'ark, houfes built, a harbour formed, and 
 the cuftom-houfe for the Clyde eftablifhed. 
 Greenock. Proceed two miles lower to Greenock, antiently called the bay of 
 
 St. Lawrence; a place ftill more confiderable for its fhipping than 
 die former •, and, like the other, a port of Glafgow, twenty-two 
 miles diftant from it. The Firtb here expands into a fine bafon 
 four miles wide, and is land-locked on all fides. Dine here, con- 
 tract for a vefiel for my intended voyage, and return to Glafgow at 
 night. 
 June 12. Crofs the new bridge, at whofe foot on that fide is Gorbel, a fore 
 
 of fuburbs to Glafgow. The county of Lanerk ftill extends three 
 miles down the river •, but after a (hort ride, I enter the mire o£ 
 
 RENFREW. 
 
 Leave, on the left, the hill of Lang -fide, noted for the battle nti 
 1568 •, which decided the fortune of Mary Stuart, and precipi- 
 tated her into that fatal ftep of deferting her country, and fling- 
 ing herfelf into an eighteen years captivity, terminating in the 
 lofs of her head, the difgrace of the annals of her glorious rival.. 
 Cruickston Ride through a fine country to Cruickjlon caftle, feated on the fum- 
 castle. m j t £ a ij tt i e hjii . now a mere fragment, only a part of a fquare 
 
 tower remaining of a place of much magnificence, when in its 
 full glory. The fituation is delicious, commanding a view of a 
 well-cultivated tract, divided into a multitude of fertile little 
 hills. 
 
 This was originally the property of the Crocs, a potent people 
 
 in:
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 in this county ; but in the reign of Malcolm II, was conveyed, by 
 the marriage of the heirefs, daughter of Robert de Croc, into the 
 family of Stuarts, in after-times Earls and Dukes of Lenox, who had. 
 great poffeffions in thefe parts. To this place Henry Barnly retired 
 with his enamoured Queen, Cruickfton being then, as Cliefden in the 
 time of Villiers, 
 
 The feat of wantonnefs and love. 
 
 Here fame fays that Mary firft refigned herfelf to the arms of her 
 beloved, beneath a great yew, Mill exifting : but no loves would 
 fmile on joys commenced beneath the made of this funereal tree j 
 the hour was unpropitious, 
 
 Me dies primus Lethi, primufque malorum, caufa fuit. 
 
 It was even faid * that Mary, unconfcious of events, ftruck a coin 
 on the occafion, with the figure of the fatal tree, honored with a 
 crown, and diftinguifhed by the motto, Dat gloria vires. But I have 
 opportunity of contradicting this opinion from an examination of 
 the coins themfelves, whofe dates are 1565, 1566, and 1567-}-. 
 The tree is evidently a palm, circumfcribed, Exurgat Deus, dijfipen- 
 tur inimici ejus. Pendent from the boughs, is the motto above cited, 
 which is part of the following lines taken from Propertius, alluding 
 to a fnail climbing up the body of the tree, a modeft comparifon of 
 the honors that Henry Darnly received by the union with his royal 
 fpoufe. 
 
 * Bifhop NicholSon's Scottijh library. 323. 
 f See alfo Ander/on^ Coins, tab. 165. 
 
 y n Magnum 
 
 *H
 
 i&l A T O U R 
 
 Magnum iter afcendo, fed dat mihi gloria vires, 
 
 Non juvat ex facili, lata corona jugo. 
 
 Lib. iv. El. 2. 
 
 Paisley. Vifit Paijley, a confiderable but irregularly built town ; at the 
 
 diftance of two miles from Cruickflon, fix miles Weft of Glafgow, 
 two miles S. Weft of Renfrew, and fourteen S. Eaft of Greenock. 
 It was erected into a burgh of barony in the year 1488, and the 
 affairs of the community are managed by three bailies, of which 
 the eldeft is commonly in the commiffion of the peace, a treafurer, 
 a town-clerk, and feventeen councilors, v/ho are annually elected 
 upon the firft Monday after Michaelmas. It ftands on both fides 
 the river Cart, over which it has three flone bridges, each of two. 
 arches : the river runs from South to North, and empties itfelf into 
 the Clyde, about three miles below the town : at fpring-tides veffels 
 of forty tuns burthen come up to the quay -, and, as the magiftrates 
 are now clearing and deepening the river, it is hoped ftill larger 
 may hereafter get up. The communication by water is of great 
 importance to the inhabitants, for fending their goods and manu- 
 factures to Port-Glafgow and Greenock, and, if they chufe it, to 
 Glafgow ; and befides, was the grand canal finifhed, they will have 
 an eafy communication with the Firth of Forth, as the canal joins 
 the Clyde about three or four miles North of Paijley. 
 
 Notwithstanding its antiquity this town was of little confequence 
 till within thefe laft fifty years ; before that period fcarce any other 
 manufacture was carried on but coarfe linnen checks, and a kind of 
 itriped cloth called Bengals ; both which have long been given up 
 here: while thefe were the only manufacture, the inhabitants feem 
 to have had no turn for enlarging their trade, for their goods were 
 
 expo fed.
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 cxpofed to fale in the weekly market, and chiefly bought up by 
 dealers from Glafgow : fome of them, however, who travelled into 
 England to fell Scots manufactures, pick'd up a more general know- 
 lege of trade, and having faved a little money, fettled at home, and 
 thought of eftablifhing other branches ; to which they were the 
 more encouraged, as their acquaintance in England was like to be of 
 great ufe to them. 
 
 About 50 years ago the making of white Hitching threads was 
 firft introduced into the Weft country by a private gentlewoman, 
 Mrs. Millar, of Bargarran, who, very much to her own honor, im- 
 ported a twift-mill, and other neceffary apparatus, from Holland, and 
 carried on afmall manufacture in her own family : this branch, now 
 of fuch general importance to Scotland, was foon after eftabliihed in 
 Paijley ; where it has ever fince been on the increafe, and has now 
 difFufed itfelf over all parts of the kingdom. In other places girls 
 are bred to it : here they may be racher faid to be born to it : as al- 
 moft every family makes fome threads, or have made formerly. It 
 is generally computed, that, in the town and neighborhood, white 
 threads are annually made to the amount of from 40 to 50000/. 
 
 The manufacture of lawns, under various denominations, is alfo 
 carried on here to a confiderable amount, and to as great perfection 
 as in any part of Europe. Vaft quantities of foreign yarn are 
 annually imported from France, Germany, &c. for this branch, as 
 only the lower priced kinds can be made cf our home manufac- 
 tured yarn. It is thought the lawn branch here amounts to about 
 70000 /. annually. The filk gauze has alfo been eftablilhed here, 
 and brought to the utmoft perfection : it is wrought to an amazing 
 variety of patterns ; for fuch is the ingenuity of our weavers, 
 
 that 
 
 165
 
 ,66 A T O U R 
 
 that nothing in their branch is too hard for them. It is com- 
 monly reckoned that this branch amounts to about 60000 /. 
 
 annually. 
 
 A manufacture of ribbons has, within thefe twelve months, been 
 eftablifhed here, and both flowered and plain are made, in every 
 refpect as good as in any place of England. In thefe different 
 branches a great number of people are employed, many of them 
 boys and girls, who mull otherwile have been idle for fome years. 
 It mud be extremely agreeable to every man who wifhes well to 
 his country, to fee, in the fummer feafon, both fides of the river, and 
 a great many other fields about town, covered with cloth and threads ; 
 and to hear, at all feafons, as he paffes along the itreets, the induf- 
 trious and agreeable noife of weavers looms and twill-mills. The 
 late unfortunate flagnation of trade has been felt here, as well as in 
 moll other parts of the ifland ; but it is hoped, if things were a little 
 more fettled, trade will revive, and the induflrious artificers be again 
 all employed. 
 
 Befides thefe general manufactures, feveral others of a more local 
 kind are carried on here : there is a very confiderable one of hard- 
 foap and tallow-candles, both of which are efleemed excellent of 
 their kinds, as the gentlemen concerned fpared no expence to bring 
 their manufacture to perfection : their candles, efpecially their 
 moulded ones are reckoned the bed and mod elegant that have been 
 made in Scotland, and great quantities of them are fent to England 
 and to the Weft-Indies. They are made after the Kenfmgton manner, 
 and with this view they had a man from London, at very high wages. 
 There are alfo two tanning works in town, and a copperas work in 
 the neighborhood. 
 
 Before
 
 IN SCOTLAND, ,6 7 
 
 Before the year 1735 the whole people in the parifh, town and 
 country, faid their prayers in one church, and the reverend and 
 learned Mr. Robert Millar difcharged the whole duties of the pafto- 
 ral office for many years without an affiftant : but fince that pe- 
 riod the town has increafed fo much, that befides the old church 
 there are now two large ones, and two feceding meeting-houfes. 
 The church firft built, called the Laigb, or low-church, is in form 
 of a Greek crofs, very well laid out, and contains a great num- 
 ber of people : the other, called the high-church, is a very fine 
 building, and, as it Hands on the top of a hill, its lofty ftone 
 ipire is i&tn. at a vait diftance : the church is an oblong fquare, 
 of eighty-two feet by fixty-two, within the walls, built of free- 
 Hone, well fmoothed, having ruftic corners, and an elegant ftone- 
 cornice at top : tho' the area is fo large, it has no pillars ; and 
 the feats and lofts are fo well laid out, that, tho' the church con- 
 tains about three thoufand people, every one of them fees the 
 minifter : in the conftruction of the roof, (which is a pavillion, co- 
 ver'd with flate, having a platform covered with lead on the top) 
 there is fomething very curious j it is admired by every man of tafle, 
 and, with the whole building, was planned and conducted by the 
 late very ingenious Baillie Whyte, of this place. The town-houfe is 
 a very handfome building of cut-Hone, with a tall fpire, and a 
 clock : part of it is let for an inn, the reft is ufed as a prifon, and 
 court-rooms ; for here the frier iff -courts of the county are held. 
 The flefh-market has a genteel front, of cut ftone, and is one 
 of the neateft and mod commodious of the kind in Britain : 
 butchers meat, butter, cheefe, fiih, wool, and feveral other arti- 
 cles, are fold here by what they call the tron-pound of 22 Englijh 
 
 ounces
 
 tf 
 
 168 A T O U R 
 
 ounces and a half. The poor-hcufe is a large building, very well 
 laid out, and Hands oppofite to the quay, in a fine free air : it is 
 fupported by a fmall tax, impofed upon the inhabitants quarterly. 
 There are at prelent in the houfe above fixty, of which number 
 about thirty-fix are boys and girls, who are carefully educated, 
 and the boys put out to bufinefs at the expence of the houfe. 
 Befides thefe, many out-pcnfioners have weekly fupplies. Molt 
 of the mechanics and artificers in town, and feveral others, that 
 fall not under thefe denominations, have formed themfelves into 
 focieties, and have eftablifhed funds for the aid of their diftrefs'd 
 members : thefe funds are generally well managed, and of very 
 great benefit to individuals. 
 
 The old part of the town runs from Eaft to Weft upon the 
 South Hope of a ridge of hills, from which there is a pleafant 
 and very extenfive profpecl: of the city of Glafgow^ and the adja- 
 cent country on all fides, but to the Southward, where the view ter- 
 minates on a ridge of green hills, about two miles diftant. In- 
 cluding the late buildings and fuburbs, it is about an Englijh mile 
 long, and much about the fame breadth. So late as the year 
 1746, by a very accurate furvey, it was found to contain fcarce four 
 thoufand inhabitants ; but it is now thought to have no fewer than 
 from ten to twelve thoufand, all ages included. The Earl of 
 Abercorrfs burial place is by much the greateft curiofity in Paijley : 
 it is an old Gothic chapel, without pulpit or pew, or any ornament 
 whatever ; but has the fineft echo perhaps in the world : when the 
 end-door (the only one it has) is ftiut, the noifeis equal to a loud 
 and not very diftant clap of thunder •, if you ftrike a fingle note of 
 mufic, you hear the found gradually afcending, till it dies away, 
 
 as
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 as if at an immenfe diftance, and all the while diffufing itfelf through, 
 the circumambient air : if a good voice fings, or a mufical inftru- 
 ment is well played upon, the effect is inexprefiibly agreeable. In 
 this chapel is the monument of Marjory Bruce: me lies recumbent, 
 with her hands clofed, in the attitude of prayer : above was once a 
 rich arch, with fculptures of the arms, &c, Her ftory is fingular : 
 me was daughter of Robert Bruce, and wife of Walter, Great Steward 
 of Scotland, and mother of Robert the lid. In the year 1317, when 
 me was big with child, me broke her neck in hunting near this 
 place : the Cefarian operation was inftantly performed, and the 
 child taken out alive •, but the operator chancing to hurt one eye 
 with his inftrument, occafioned the blemilh that gave him afterwards 
 the epithet of Blear-eye -, and the monument is alfo ftyled that of 
 Queen Bleary. In the fame chapel were interred Elizabeth Muir 
 and Euphemia Rofs, both conforts to the fame monarch : the firft 
 died before his acceflion. 
 
 About half a mile S. Weft of Pai/ley lies Maxwelton : a very neat 
 little village, erected fince the year 1746, where the manufactures of 
 filk gauze are carried on to a confiderable extent. 
 
 There is fcarce a veftige remaining of the monaftery, founded in 
 
 1 1 60 by Walter fon of Allan, ' Dapifer Regis Scotia pro anima 
 
 ' quondam regis David" et anima Henrici regis Angli<e et anima co- 
 
 4 mitis Henrici et pro falute corporis et animae regis Malcolmi et pro 
 
 c animabus omnium parentum meorum, et benefadlorum nee non 
 
 * et mei ipfius falute, &c.' The moaks, who were inftructed with 
 
 this weighty charge, were firft of the order of Cluniacs, afterwards 
 
 changed to Ciftercians ; and laftly, the firft order was again re- 
 
 ftored. 
 
 Z The 
 
 169
 
 170 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 The garden wall, a very noble and extenfive one of cut ftone, 
 conveys fome idea of the antient grandeur of the place : by a rude 
 inicription, ftill extant, on the IS. Weft corner, it appears to have 
 been built by George Shaw, the abbot, in the year 1484, the lama 
 gentleman who four years after procured a charter for the town o£ 
 Paijley. The infeription is too Angular to be omitted : 
 
 Thy callit the abbot George of Sba-xv, 
 About my abby gart make this waw 
 An hundred four hundredth zear 
 Eighty-four the date but weir. 
 Pray for his falvation 
 That laid this noble fundation. 
 
 As the Great Stewards of Scotland were their patrons and be- 
 nefactors, they enjoyed ample privileges, and very confiderabie 
 revenues -, they were the patrons of no fewer than thirty-one pa- 
 rimes, in different parts of the kingdom. The monks of this 
 abby wrote a chronicle of Scots affairs, called the black book of 
 Paijley, an authentic copy of which is faid to have been burnt in 
 the abby of Holyroodhoufe, during Cromwel's ufurpation : another 
 copy taken from Mr. Robert Spottifaood's library, was carried to 
 England by General Lambert. The chartulary of the monaftery 
 is faid to be ftill extant ; the account of the charters, bulls of 
 confirmation, donations, &c. is brought down to the year 1548. 
 John Hamilton, the laft abbot, was natural brother to the Duke 
 of Hamilton, and, upon his promotion to the fee of St. Andrews, 
 in 1546, refigned the abbacy of Paijley in favor of Lord Claud 
 Hamilton, third fon of that Duke ; which refignation was after- 
 wards
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 wards confirmed by Pope Julius III, in the year 1553. This Lord 
 Claud Hamilton, titular abbot of Paijley, upon the diflblution of 
 the monafteries obtained from King James the Vlth, a charter, 
 erecting the lands belonging to the abbacy into a temporal lord- 
 fhip : this charter is dated at Edinburgh, July 29, .587. He 
 was, by the fame prince, created a peer, in 1591, by the title of 
 Lord Paijley, and died in 162 1. In 1604 his eldeft foil had been 
 created Lord Abercorn, and in 1606 was raifed to the dignity of 
 an earl. The family is now reprefented by the Right Hon. James 
 Earl of Abercorn, Baron Hamilton of Straban, in Ireland, &c. The 
 lordfhip of Paijley was difpofed of to the Earl of Angus, in the year 
 1652, and by him to William Lord Cochran, afterwards Earl of 
 Dundonald, in 1653, in which family it continued till the year 
 1764, when the prefent Earl of Abercom re-purchafed the pater- 
 nal inheritance of his family. The abby-church, when entire, 
 has been a grand building, in form of a crofs ; the great North 
 window is a noble ruin, the arch very lofty, the middle pillar 
 wonderfully light, and ftiil entire : only the chancel now remains, 
 which is divided into a middle and two fide-ifles ; all very lofty 
 pillars, with gothic arches j above thele is another range of pil- 
 lars, much larger, being the fegment of a circle, and above a 
 row of arched niches, from end to end ; over which the roof 
 ends in a fharp point. The outfide of the building is decorated 
 with a profufion of ornaments, efpecially the great Weft and 
 North doors, than which fcarce any thing lighter or richer can be 
 imagined. 
 
 But notwithftanding popery and epifcopacy were expelled this 
 country, yet fuperftition and credulity kept full poffeflion in thefe 
 
 Z 2 parts, 
 
 171
 
 172 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 parts. In 1697 twenty poor wretches were condemned for the 
 imaginary crime of witchcraft, and five actually fuffered at the 
 ftake on June 10th in the fame year*. One young and handfome ; 
 to whom is attributed the heroic reply mentioned in my former 
 volume f. So deep was the folly of excefs in belief rooted here, 
 that full credit feems to have been given to an account that one 
 of the condemned (a wizzard) was ftrangled in his chair by the 
 devil, I fuppofe lead he mould make a confeflion to the detriment 
 of the fervice. 
 
 The veftiges of the Roman camp at Paijley, are at prefent almoft 
 annihilated. Of the outworks mentioned by Camden, there are 
 no traces of any excepting one, for at a place called Cafile Head, 
 are ftill left a few marks, but nothing entire. There had been a 
 military road leading to the camp, which is fuppofed to have been 
 the vanduara of Ptolemy. 
 
 Continue my journey towards Renfrew. On the road fee a 
 mount or tumulus, with a fofs round the bafe, and a fingle Hone 
 erected on the top. Near this place was defeated and (lain Sumer- 
 led Thane of Argyle, who in 11 59, with a great army of banditti,, 
 collected from Ireland % and other parts, landed in the bay of St. 
 
 * Narrative of the diabolical practices of above twenty wizzards, &c. printed 
 1697. 
 
 f The girl at Warhols made a reply equally great. Her perfecutors had only 
 one circumftance againft her, that of concealing herfelf: for when the mob came 
 to feize her mother, fhe hid herfelf in the coal-hole. On her tryal the by-ftanders 
 pitying her youth and innocence, advifed her to plead her belly. She replied 
 with the utmoft fpirit, that not<voithjianding they had power to put her to death \ they 
 never Jhould make her dejiroy her reputation by/o infamous a plea, 
 
 X Major, 133. 
 
 Laurence,
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 173 
 
 Laurence, and led them in rebellion againft Malcolm IV. That 
 this mount was raifed in memory of fo fignal an event is not im- 
 probable, efpecially as we are told by a molt refpeclable writer *, 
 that his troops retired unmolefled ; therefore might have leifure 
 to fling up this ufual tribute to the honor of their leader. 
 
 Reach Renfrew the county town, now an inconfiderable place. Renfrew. 
 Robert the lid. had a palace here, which flood on a piece of ground 
 of about half an acre, ftill called the Caftle hill; but nothing re- 
 mains but the ditch which furrounded it. This monarch firft made 
 Renfrew an independent fheriffdom, for before it was joined to 
 that of Lanerk. 
 
 Pafs by the tower of Inch, or ifle fo called, from its once hav- 
 ing been, as tradition fays, furrounded by the Clyde. Mr. Craw- 
 ford, in his hiftory of the county informs us, it had been the pro- 
 perty of the barons Rofs of Haulkhead. 
 
 All the land in thefe parts excellent, but moll ill and flovenly 
 drefled. Crofs the Clyde, pafs by Partic, a village where the 
 bakers of Glafgcw have very confiderable mills on the water of 
 Kelvin, and a great tract of land, at prefent valued at ten thou- 
 fand pounds ; originally granted to them by the regent Murray, 
 in reward for their fervices in fupplying his army with bread pre- 
 vious to the decifive battle of Lang fide. Return again to Glafgow. 
 
 Set out in company with Mr. Golbome, for Loch-lomcnd. Pafs J u ne 13. 
 
 for a few miles over a pleafant country, hilly, well cultivated, and 
 often prettily planted, and thick fet with neat villas. Go over 
 the fite of the Roman wall, near Bemulie, where had been a con- 
 
 * Rev. Dr. John Macpherfon. 
 
 fiderable
 
 i 7 4 A T O U R 
 
 fiderable fort, whofe plan is engraven by Mr. Gordon. Crofs the 
 Kelvin, and enter the mire 
 
 • of Lenox, or Sheriffdom of Dun barton. 
 
 See on the right Mugdoc caftle, a fquare tower, the antient feat 
 of the Grahams : and near it is a mount, probably the work of 
 the Romans, for they penetrated on this fide as far as the banks 
 of Loch Lomond, a gold coin of Nero and another of Trajan hav- 
 ing been found in the parifh of Brummond. The country now 
 grows high, moory, black, and dreary. Pafs over Fenwick bridge, 
 flurio- over a dark and rocky glen, fhaded with trees, impending 
 over a violent torrent. Leave at fome diflance on the right 
 the fmall houfe of Mofs, immortalized by the birth of the 
 o-reat Buchanan. Crofs a handfome bridge over the water of En- 
 neric, and breakfaft at the village of Brummin or Brummond with 
 the rev. Mr. Macfarlane, the minifter of the place. The parifh, 
 which takes its name from Druim, a back, from the ridges that run 
 along it, is in extent nine miles by feven ; and fome years ago 
 contained about a thoufand eight hundred fouls •, but the number 
 is much reduced by the unfeeling practice of melting feveral leffer 
 farms into a greater. Arrive once more within fight of the charm- 
 
 t~. M t«.,« r. ing Loch Lomond. 
 
 Loch-Lomond. & _ 
 
 Approach its mores, go through the narrow pafs of Bualmacha, 
 where the Grampian hills finifh in the lake. Many of the ifles 
 run in a line with, and feem to have been a continuation of them ; 
 appearing like fo many fragments rent from them by fome violent 
 convulfion. Arrive in a beautiful bay : the braes of the hills on 
 
 the
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 175 
 
 the right are lofty : Tome filled with fmall pebbles • others have 
 a ferruginous look. The iflands are mountanous and exhibit 
 variety of charms. Inch-Caltoch, or the ifle of nuns, has on it the 
 remains of a church, is finely wooded ; and is fa id to have been the 
 feat of the fair reclufes. Inch-Murrin, or the ifle of St. Murrimts, 
 is two miles long, is a deer park, and has on it the ruins of a houfe 
 once belonging to the family of Lenox. On this ifland John Col- 
 quhoun, Laird of Lufs, with feveral of his followers, were barbaroufiy 
 murdered by a party of iflanders, who, under conduct of Lauchlan 
 Maclean, and Murdoc Gib/on, in 1439, carried fire and fword through 
 this part of N. Britain. 
 
 Various other iflands grace this fine expanfe : Inch-Lonaig of great 
 extent is blackened with the deep green of yews. The ofprey inha- 
 bits a ruined caflle on Inch Galbraith : and feveral little low and naked 
 ifles ferve to diverfify the fcene. From this fpot the boundaries of 
 the water are magnificent and diftinct : the wooded fide of the 
 weftern, and the foaring head of Ben-lomond on. the eaftern, form a 
 view that is almoft unequaled. 
 
 The top of this great mountain is compofed of a micaceous flate, Ben-lomond. 
 mixed with quartz. The fibbaldia procumbens, a plant unknown in 
 England, grows on the upper parts. Ptarmigans inhabit its fummit; 
 and roes the woods near its bafe, the mod fouthern refort of thofe 
 animals in our ifland. 
 
 The height of Ben-lomond from the furface of the lake is three 
 thoufand two hundred and forty feet : the profpecl from the fummit 
 of vaft extent : the whole extent of Loch-lomond with its wooded ifles 
 appears juft beneath. Loch-loung, Loch-kettering^ Loch-earn and the 
 
 river/
 
 J7 6 A T O U R 
 
 river Clyde form the principal waters. The mountains of Arran ap- 
 pear very diftinct, and to the North Alps upon Alps fill up the 
 amazing view. 
 Buchanan. Return the fame way, and vifit Buchanan, the feat of the Duke of 
 
 Mov.trofe, in alow and mod diiadvantageous fituation, within a mile 
 of the lake, without the left view of lb delicious a water. This had 
 been the feat of the Buchanans for fix or feven ages, till it was pur- 
 chafed by the family of Montrofe, fometime in the laft century. 
 Trees grow well about the houfe •, and the country yields a good 
 deal of barley and oats, feme potatoes, but very little wheat. 
 
 His grace has in his poflMTion a portrait of his heroic anceftor 
 
 Marquiss of j ames Marquifs of Montrofe : his fix victories, great as they were, do 
 Montrose. * n J . . ] , . 
 
 him lefs honor than his magnanimity at the hour of his death : he 
 
 afcended the gibbet with a dignity and fortitude thatcauied the ig- 
 nominy of his punifhment to vanilli : he fell with a gallant contempt 
 ofthecrueleft infults ; with that intrepid piety that blunted the 
 malice of his enemies, and left them filled with the confufion natural 
 to little minds, difappointed in the {trained contrivances of mean 
 revenge. 
 
 It is amufing to read the weak effects of fear, envy and rancour 
 in the reports of the times : ' The witches (faid the wretched cove- 
 ' nanters) were confulted at his birth ; it was predicted that the boy 
 ' would trouble Scotland-, and while he was a fucking child (add 
 6 they) he eat a venemous toad.'* 
 
 Walk in the afternoon over the neighboring environs. See the 
 
 • Staggering flate of &W7 ilatefmen, p. 14. 
 
 water
 
 IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 i77 
 
 water of Ennerlc that difcharges itfelf here into the lake. Salmon 
 in their annual migration pais up the Lcven, traverfe the lake, and 
 feek this river to depofit their fpawn. 
 
 The furface of Loch-Lomond has for feveral years pad been ob- Loch-lomonb. 
 ferved gradually to increafe and invade the adjacent more: and Its increase. 
 there is reafon to fuppofe that churches, houfes, and other build- 
 ings have been loft in the water. Near Lufs is a large heap of 
 ftones at a diftance from the more, known by the name of the old 
 church i and about a mile to the South of that, in the middle of 
 a large bay, between Camftraddan and the ifle Inch lavenack, is ano- 
 ther heap, faid to have been che ruins of a houfe. To confirm 
 this, it is evident by a paffage in Camden's Atlas Britannica, that 
 an ifland, exifting in his time, is now loft, for he fpeaks of the 
 ifle of Camftraddan, placed between the lands of the fame name 
 and Inch-lav anack, in which, adds he, was an houfe and orchard. 
 Befides this proof, large trees with their branches (till adhering 
 are frequently found in the mud near the ihore, overwhelmed in 
 former times by the increafe of water. This is fuppofed to be 
 occafioned by the vaft quantities of ftone and gravel that is con- 
 tinually brought down by the mountain rivers, and by the falls of 
 the banks of the Leven : the firft filling the bed of the lake ; the 
 laft impeding its difcharge through the bed of the river. 
 
 Mr. Golborne, at the requeft of the feveral proprietors, has Project to 
 made a voyage and furvey of the lake, in order to plan fome re- lower the 
 lief from the incroachment of the water. He propofes to form a 
 conftant navigation down the Leven, by deepening the channel, 
 and cutting through the neck of two great curvatures, which will 
 not only enable the inhabitants of the environs of Loch-Lomond, to 
 
 A a convey
 
 I7 8 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 convey their flate, timber, bark, &c. to the market ; but alfo by 
 lowering the furface of the lake, recover fome thoufands of acres 
 now covered with water. 
 
 The tide flows up the Leven two miles and a quarter. From 
 thence as far as the lake is a rapid current, the fall being nineteen 
 feet in five miles : the water is alfo full of fhoals, fo that in dry 
 feafons it becomes unnavigable j and even at beft the veiTels are 
 drawn up by a number of horfes. 
 
 I mufl not leave the parifh of Drummond without faying, that 
 the celebrated Napier of Merchifton, author of the logarithms, 
 was born at Garlies, within its precincts. 
 JUNE14&15. Still at Glafgow : am honored with the freedom of the city. 
 
 June 16. Set out for Greenock, pafs again through Renfrew : the coun- 
 
 try very fine, the lanes for fome fpace well planted on both fides. 
 Ride over Inchinnan bridge, near which Matthew Earl of Lenox, 
 in 1506, built a magnificent palace: get upon lome higii grounds, 
 and, above the feat of Lord Glencairn, have a fine view of the 
 Clyde, Dunbarton, and all the Northern more. Reach Greenock : 
 after dinner take boat and crofs into the fhire of Lenox, and 
 land where the parifh of Rofneath juts out, and narrows the bay 
 to the breadth of three miles, forming in that part a fort of flrait : 
 the profpect in the middle of this pafiage uncommonly fine; a 
 contraft of fertility and favage views : to the Eafl were the rich 
 fhores of the fhires of Renfrew and Lenox, the pretty feats on the 
 banks, and the wooded peninfula of Ardmore •, and to the Weft 
 Roseneath. appears the craggy tops of the hills of Argylefhire. Vifit Rofe- 
 neath houfe •, a neat feat of the Duke of Argyle, dated 1634: 
 the grounds well planted, the trees thriving : in one part of the 
 
 walks
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 « 7* 
 
 walks am ftiewn a precipitous rock, to which I was informed that 
 the hero Wallace was purfued, and obliged to leap down to avoid 
 captivity : his horfe perifned ; the hero efcaped unhurt. This 
 country was the feat of the Mac-Aulays, who ftruggled long 
 with the Campbels in defence of their rights, but their genius 
 proved the weaker. 
 
 Crofs over the mouth of Loch-gair, which runs to the N. fix or 
 feven miles up the country, the end overhung with lofty ragged 
 mountains. Vifit Airden-capel, a new houfe of Lord Frederic 
 Campbell, fituate on an eminence, commanding a mod beautiful 
 view of the Renfrew more, and the profpedt of the ports of Port- 
 Glafgow and Greenock, continually animated with the movement 
 of fhips, and the bufy haunt of commerce. Ardin-capel was an- Ardin»capel« 
 tiently poilefled by a family of the fame name; but in the time of 
 James III. it was changed to that of Mac-Aulay, from the word 
 Aulay happening to be the chriftian name of the owner. 
 
 VOYAGE. 
 
 Go on board the Lady Frederic Campbell, a cutter of ninety J UNE «7« 
 
 tuns, Mr. Archibald Tbompfon matter. Sail at half an hour paft 
 two in the afternoon •, pafs, on the left, the village and little bay 
 of Gourock, a place of failors and fifhermen ; on the right, the 
 point of Rofeneath, in Lenox ; between which, and that of Strone, 
 in Cowal, a portion of Argylefhire, opens Loch-Loung, or the loch L.Lovng. 
 of fhips, which runs North many miles up the country. This is 
 the Skipqfiord of the Norwegians, having in their tongue, the fame 
 fignification. To this place, in 1263, Haco, King of Norway, de- 
 
 A a 2 tached,
 
 iSo A V O Y A G E to the 
 
 tached, with fixty fhips, fome of his officers, who landed and de- 
 
 ftroyed all the country round Loch-Lomond*. Immediately beyond 
 
 the point of Strom the land is again divided by the Holy- Loch, or 
 
 Locb-Seant, extending Weflward. On its Northern more is Kilmun y 
 
 Kilmun. once the feat of a collegiate church, founded by Sir Duncan Campbel y 
 
 in J 442, and fince that time the burial-place of the houfe of Argylc. 
 
 S:eer South, conveyed rather by the force of the tide than 
 
 wind : the channel ftrait, and fo narrow as to make every object 
 
 diftinct. On the Eaflern more is the fquare tower of Leven, and 
 
 a little farther projects the point of Cloch. Almoft oppofite, on the 
 
 Castle of Weftern fide, are the ruins of the caftle of Dunoon: this fortrefs 
 Dunoon. . 
 
 was poffefled by the Engli/b in 1331, but was taken in behalf of 
 
 David Bruce, by Sir Colin Camp hi, of Locbo-w, who put the gar- 
 
 rifon to the fword : in reward he was made hereditary governor,, 
 
 and had the grant of certain lands towards its fupport. 
 
 The view down the Firth now appears extremely great : the 
 
 mire of Renfrew bounds one fide ; the hills of Cowal, (loping to 
 
 the water edge, and varied with woods and conr lands, grace the 
 
 Islbs of cumray. other : in front are the greater and the leffer Cumrays, the firft 
 
 once remarkable for its church, dedicated to St. Columba*, and at 
 
 prefent for the quarries of beautiful free-done ; the lafl for the 
 
 abundance of rabbets : the ifle of Bute, with its fertile fhore, lies 
 
 oblique, and the ftupendous mountains of Arran, foar at fome 
 
 diftance far, far above. 
 
 • Univerfas villas in circuituLacus Lokulofrii vaftarnnt. Torfaui. hift. Oread. 167. 
 f Dean of the ifles, 6. 
 
 Am
 
 HEBRIDES. l8j 
 
 Am carried by the point and cattle of Tozvart, the flat Southern 
 extremity of Cowal, leaving on the Eaft the (hire of Air. Tcwart is 
 the property of the Lamonds, who, during the civil wars, fiding with 
 Montrofe, were befieged in it, and on the furrender, put to the lword*. 
 At a diftance is pointed out to me, in that county, the fite of Largs, Battle ofLargs. 
 diftinguifhed in the Scottijh annals for the final defeat of the Norwe- 
 gians, in 1263, which put an end to their invafions, and reftored to 
 Scotland the pofTeffion of the Hebrides, 
 
 Steer towards the coaft of Bute, and in the evening land at the I $LE ofButb* 
 little point of Squolog, and walk up to Mount-Stewart, the feat of the 
 Earl of Bute ; a modern houfe, with a handforne front and wines : 
 the fituation very fine, on an eminence in the midft of a wood, where 
 trees grow with as much vigor as in the more Southern parts, and 
 extend far beneath on each fide ; and Throttles, and.other birds of 
 long, fill the groves with their melody. 
 
 The ifle of Bute, is about tv/enty meafured miles lono- ; the 
 breadth unequal,, perhaps the greateft is five miles v the number 
 of acres about twenty thouiand ; of inhabitants about four thou- 
 fand : here are two parifhes, Kingarth and Rothefay ; at the laft 
 only the Erfe language is uled. It mult be obferved alfo, that 
 in the laft church were buried two of the biJJjops of the ijles -f-, 
 but whether it was at times the refidence of the prelates does not 
 appear. 
 
 The country rifes into fmall hill:, is in no part mountanous, 
 but is higheft at the South end. The itrata of ftone alono- the 
 fhore from Rot be/ay bay to Cil-chattan, is a red grit, mixed with 
 
 * Buchanan's Clans, parti. 152. + Ktitb, 180. 
 
 pebbles j
 
 i83 A V O Y A G E to the 
 
 pebbles •, from the firft, tranfverfe to Scalpay bay, is a bed of 
 flate, which feems to be a continuation of that fpecies of ftone, 
 rifino- near Stonehive, on the Eaftern fide of Scotland, and con- 
 
 o 
 
 tinued, with fome interruptions, to this ifland ; but is of a bad 
 kind, both at its origin and termination. In the South end is fome 
 limeftone : fome fpotted ftone, not unlike lava, is found near the 
 South end. 
 
 Quadrupeds. The quadrupeds of this ifland are hares, polecats, weefels, otters, 
 
 feals, and as a compliment to the foil, moles. Among the birds, 
 grous and partridge are found here. 
 
 Cultivation. yj ie cultivation of an extenfive tract on this eaftern fide is very 
 
 confiderablc. In the article of inclofure, it has the ftart of the more 
 fouthern counties of this part of the kingdom : the hedges are tall, 
 thick and vigorous : the white thorns and wicken trees now in full 
 flower ; and about two thoufand acres have been thus improved. 
 The manures are coral and fea fhells, fea weeds and lime. I ob- 
 ferved in many places whole ftrata of corals and fhells of a vafl: 
 thicknefs, at prefent half a mile from the fea, fuch lofTes has that 
 element fultained in thefe parts. The ifland is deftitute of coal, but 
 ftill much lime is burnt here, not only for private ufe, but 
 for exportation at a cheap rate to the ports of Greenock and Port- 
 Glafgow. 
 
 The produce of the ifland is barley oats and potatoes. The 
 barley yields nine from one : the oats four. Turneps and artificial 
 grafltrs have been lately introduced with good fuccefs : fo that the 
 inhabitants may have fat mutton throughout the year. A great 
 Farms. number of cattle are alfo reared here. The higheft farm here is 
 
 fixty pounds a year, excepting a fingle fheep farm which rents for 
 
 two
 
 HEBRIDES. 183 
 
 two hundred ; but the medium is about twenty-five. Arable land 
 is fet at nine or ten millings an acre ; the price of laborers is eight- 
 pence a day. Rents are at prefent moftly paid in money : the rent 
 roll of the iiland is about four thoufand pounds a year. Lord Bute 
 pofieffes much the greater fhare -, and two or three private gentlemen 
 own the reft. 
 
 The air is in general temperate : no mifts or thick rolling fogs 
 from the fea, called in the North a hark, ever infeft this ifland. 
 Snow is fcarcely ever known to lie here •, and even that of laft win- 
 ter, lb remarkable for its depth and duration in other places, was in 
 this iiland fcarce two inches deep. The evils of this place are winds 
 and rains, the lail coming in deluges from the Weft. 
 
 When the prefent Earl of Bute came to his eftate, the farms were 
 poffefifed by a fet of men, who carried on at the fame time, the pro- 
 feffion of hufbandry and fifhing to the manifeft injury of both. His 
 lordfliip drew a line between thefe incongruent employs, and obliged 
 each to carry on the bufinefs he preferred, diftinft from the other : 
 yet in juftice to the old farmers, notice mult be taken of their fkill 
 in ploughing even in their rudeft days, for the ridges were ftrait, and 
 the ground laid out in a manner that did them much credit. But 
 this new arrangement, with the example given by his lordfliip of 
 inclofing -, by the incouragement of burning lime for fome ; and by 
 transporting gratis to the neareft market the produce of all, has given 
 to this ifland its prefent flourifliing afpect. 
 
 This iile with that of Arran, the greater and the leffer Cumbray, and 
 Inch-marnoc, form a county under the name of Bute. This ihire 
 and that of Cathnefs fend a member to parlement alternately. 
 
 Civil caufes are determined here as in other counties of this part Government, 
 
 of
 
 i8* AVOYAGEtothe 
 
 of the kingdom, by the fherirF-depute, who is always refident : 
 he is the judge in fmaller matters, and has a (alary of about a 
 hundred and fifty pounds a year. Juftices of peace have the fame 
 powers here, and over the whole county, as in other places : but 
 in North-Britain no other qualification is required, after nomina- 
 tion, than taking out their commifiions, and giving the ufual 
 oaths. 
 
 Criminals are lodged in the county jail at Rothefay, but are re- 
 moved for trial to Inveraray •, where the judges of the court of juf- 
 ticiary meet twice a year ior the determining of criminal caufes of a 
 certain difbricTt. 
 
 The Earl of Bute is admiral of the county by commiffion from his 
 majefty, but no way dependent on the lord high admiral of Scotland-, 
 fo that if any maritime cafe occurs within this jurifdidtion (even 
 crimes of as high a nature as murder or piracy) his lordmip, by vir- 
 tue of the powers as admiral, is lufricient judge, or he may delegate 
 his authority to any deputies. 
 Junb 18. Vifit the South part of the ifland : ride to the hill of Cil-chattan, 
 
 a round eminence, from whence is a vaft view of all around, infular 
 and mainland. Obferve, on the face of the hills, that the rocks dip 
 almoft perpendicularly, and form long columnar ftacks, fome op- 
 pofing to us their fides, others their angles : are hard and cherty, 
 but not bafaltic\ a term I apply to the jointed columns refembling 
 thofe of the giant's caufezvay. 
 
 Defcend to the ruin of old Kin-garth church. Two cemeteries 
 belong to it, a higher and a lower : the laft was allotted for the in- 
 terment of females alone ; becauie, in old times, certain women 
 being employed to carry a quantity of holy earth, brought from 
 
 Rome,
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 Rome, loft fome by the way, and fo incurred this penalty for their 
 negligence •, that of being buried feparated from the other fex. 
 
 Near this place is a circular inclofure called the Devil's Cauldron : 
 it is made of ftone, of excellent mafonry, but without mortar, having 
 the infide faced in the mod fmooth and regular manner. The walls 
 at prefent are only feven feet fix inches high, but are ten feet in thick- 
 nefs : on one fide is an entrance, wide at the beginning, but grows Gra- 
 dually narrower as it approaches the area, which is thirty feet diameter. 
 
 Mr. Gordon has engraven, in tab. iii, a building fimilar to this 
 near the courfe of the wall, called Catrn-fieaJ, and ftyles it a cafiellum. 
 This, I prefume, could never have been defigned as a place of de- 
 fence, as it is fituated beneath a precipice, from whofe fummit 
 the inmates might inftantly have been oppreffed by (lones, or 
 mimle weapons : perhaps it was a fancluary ; for the name of 
 the church, Kin-garth implies, Kin, chief or head, Garth * a 
 fanctuary ; the common word for places of refuge, Girth beino- 
 corrupted from it. 
 
 The South end of Bute is more hilly than the reft, and divided 
 from the other part by a low fandy plain, called Langal-chorid, on 
 which are three great upright ftones, the remains of a Druidiccl 
 circle, originally compofed of twelve. 
 
 Return over a coarfe country, and pafs by lands, lately inclofed 
 with hedges, growing in a very profperous manner. Pafs by 
 Loch-afcog, a fmall piece of water ; and foon after by Loch-fad, 
 about a mile and three quarters long, narrow, rocky on one fide, 
 prettily wooded on the other. The other lochs are Loch-ghiyen, 
 and Loch-Greenan ; and each has its river. Reach Rothefay, the 
 
 * Garth originally means no more than yard or inclofure. 
 
 B b capital ; 
 
 185
 
 186 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Rothesat. capital-, a fmall but well-built town, of fmall houfes, and about 
 two hundn .1 families ; and within thefe few years much improved. 
 The females fpin yarn •, the men fupport themselves by fifhing. 
 The town has a good pier, and lies at the bottom of a fine bay, 
 whofe mouth exactly opens oppofite to that of Loch-Streven, in 
 Coival : here is a fine depth of water, a fecure retreat •, and a ready 
 navigation down the Firth for an export trade : magazines for 
 goods for foreign parts might moil advantageoufly be eftablifhed 
 here. 
 Castle. The caftle has been built at different times •, the prefent entrance 
 
 by Robert III. the reft is quite round, with round towers at the fides 
 and is cf unknown antiquity. Hujhec *, grandfon of Somerled, was 
 killed in the attack of a caftle in Bute, perhaps of this. Haco\ 
 took the caftle and whole ifland in the year 1263. It was feized by 
 Edward Baltol, in 1334, £ when poffefied by the high fteward of 
 Scotland, a friend of the Bruces, and heir to the crown. In the year 
 following, the whole ifland, as well as that of Arran, was ravaged 
 by the EngUJIj, under the command of Lord Darcy, Lord Juftice of 
 Ireland. Soon after, the natives of Arran and Bute arofe §, and, un- 
 armed, made an attack with (tones on AlanLile, the Englijh. governor, 
 put his party to flight, and recovered the fortrefs. It became in 
 after-tirr.es a royal reiidence : Robert III. II lived there for a confi- 
 derable time ; much attention was beftowed on it, for in the reign of 
 James V. we find, that one of the articles of accufation againft Sir 
 James Hamilton, was his not- accounting for three thoufand crowns, 
 
 * Torfaus. f Buchanan, % Boetbius, 317. 
 
 § Major, zzg. || Boetbius, 339. 
 
 deftined
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 i«7 
 
 deftined to reform the caftle and palace of Rofay. * In 1544, the Earl 
 of Lenox, aftifted by the Englifh, made himfelf mailer of the place : 
 and in the beginning of the laft century Con what occafion I do not 
 recollect) it was burnt by the Marquifs of Argyle. 
 
 Bute is faid to derive its name from Bothe, a cell, St. Brandan 
 having once made it the place of his retreat ; and for the fame rea- 
 fon, the natives of this Ifle, and alfo of Arran, have been fometimes 
 ftyled Brandani. It was from very early times, part of the patri- 
 mony of the Stuarts : large pofTeffions in it were granted to Sir John 
 Stuart, natural fon of Robert II. by one of his miftrefifes, but whether 
 by his beloved More or Moreham, or his beloved Mariota de Cardny, 
 is what I cannot determine, -f- 
 
 Continue our ride along a hilly country, open, and under tillage : 
 pad on the right, the caftle and bay of Comes, long the property of 
 the Bannentynes : turn to the Weft, defcend to the more, and find 
 our boat ready to convey us to the veflel, which lay at anchor a mile 
 diftant, under Inch-marnoc 
 
 An ifland fo called from St. Marnoc, where appear the ruins of a Inch-Marnoc. 
 chapel, and where (according to Fordun *) had been a cell of monks. 
 The extent of this little ifle is about a mile, has a hundred and twenty 
 acres of arable land, forty of brufh-wood, near three hundred of 
 moor, and has vaft ftrata of coral and fhells on the Weft fide. It is 
 inhabited by a gentleman on half-pay, who, with his family, occupies 
 the place under Lord Bute. 
 
 * Lindefay, 165. 
 
 f Vide Sir James Dalrymptis Collections. Edinburgh 1705, p. p. xxxviii. Ixxxiii. 
 
 J Lib. ii. c. 10. 
 
 Bb2 Weigh
 
 188 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Juns 19. Weigh anchor at three o'clock in the morning : am teized with 
 
 calms, but amuied with a fine view of the circumambient land : the 
 peninfula of Cantyre, here lofty, Hoping, and rocky, divided by 
 dingles, filled with woods, which reach the water-edge, and expand 
 on both fides of the hollows : Incb-marnoc and Bute lie to the Eaft j 
 the mountanous Arran to the South •, Lcch-fine, the Sinus Lelalonnius 
 of Ptolemy, opened on the North, between the point of Skipni/h m 
 Cantyre, and that of Lamond in Cowal, and fhewed a vail expanfe of 
 water wildly bounded: numbers of herring- bufies were now in 
 motion, to arrive in time at Campbeltown, to receive the benefit of 
 the bounty, and animated the fcene. 
 
 Turn Northward, leave the point of Skipniflo to the S. Weft,, 
 and with difficulty get through a flrait of about a hundred yards 
 wide, with funk rocks on both fides, into the fafe and pretty har- 
 Loch-Tarbat. b our of the Eaftern Loch-Tarbat, of capacity fufficient for a. 
 number of fhips, and of a fine depth of water. The fcenery 
 was pi&urefque j rocky little iflands lie acrofs one part, fo as to 
 form a double port ; at the bottom extends a fmall village ; on 
 the Cantyre fide is a fquare tower, with veftiges of other ruins 
 built by the family of Argyk to fecure their Northern dominions 
 from the inroads of the inhabitants of the peninfula: on the 
 Northern fide of the entrance of the harbour the rocks are of a. 
 moft grotefque form : vaft fragments piled on each other ; the 
 faces contorted and undulated in fuch figures as if created by 
 fufion of matter after fome intenfe heat j yet did no: appear to me 
 a lava, or under any fufpicion of having been the recrement of a 
 vulcano. 
 
 Land at the village, where a great quantity of whifky is diftilled. 
 
 Vifit
 
 HEBRIDES. lg 
 
 Vifit the narrow neck of land which joins Cantyre to South Knap- 
 dale: it is fcarcely a mile wide, is partly morafly, partly inter- 
 fered by ftrata of rocks, that are dipping continuations from the 
 adjacent mountains of each diftrict. There have been plans for Proposed canal. 
 cutting a canal through this ifthmus to facilitate the navigation 
 between the Weftern ocean and the ports of the Clyde y and to 
 take away the necefiity of failing through the turbulent tides of 
 the Mull of Cantyre : it is fuppofed to be practicable, but at vafl 
 expence ; at an expence beyond the power of North Britain to 
 effect, except it could realize thofe fums which the wifhes of a 
 few of its fons had attained in idea. While I meditate on the 
 project, and in imagination fee the wealth of the Antilles fail before 
 me, the illufion burfts, the mores are covered with wracked fortunes ; 
 real diftrefs fucceeds the ideal riches of Alnafchar, and difpels at 
 once the beautiful vifion of Aaron Hill*, and the much-affected 
 traveller. 
 
 Afcend a fmall hill, and from the top have a view of the 
 Weftern Loch-Tarbat, that winds along for about twelve miles, 
 and is one continued harbour, for it has eight fathom water not 
 very remote from this extremity, and opens to the fea on the 
 Weft coaft, at Aird-Patric : the boundaries are hilly, varied 
 with woods and tracts of heath ; the country yields much pota- 
 toes and fome corn : but the land is fo interrupted with rocks, 
 that the natives, inftead of the plough, are obliged to make ufe 
 of the fpade. 
 
 The time of the tides vary greatly at the terminations of eacli 
 
 * Vide Tour of 1769, ift ed. p» 215. 2d ed. p, 228. 
 
 Of
 
 190 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 of thefe harbours : at this the flood had advanced in the Eaft 
 loch full three quarters •, in the other only one hour. According 
 to fome remarks Mr. James Watts, of Glafgow, favored me with, 
 the fpring-tides in Eaft-Tarbat flow ten feet, fix inches j in Weft 
 Tarbat, only four feet, fix inches, or, in very extraordinary tides, 
 two feet higher. The tides in the Weft loch are mod irregular j 
 fometimes neither ebb nor flow ; at other times ebb and flow 
 twice in a tide, and the quantity of the falfe ebb is about one 
 foot. The mean height of the firth of Clyde is greater than that of 
 Weft-Tarbat. 
 
 It is not very long fince veffels of nine or ten tuns were drawn 
 by horfes out of the Weft loch into that of the Eaft, to avoid the 
 dangers of the Mull of Cantyre, fo dreaded and fo little known 
 was the navigation round that promontory. It is the opinion 
 of many that thefe little ifthmus's, fo frequently ftyled Tarbat 
 in N. Britain, took their name from the above circumftance ; 
 Tarruing fignifying to draw, and Bata, a boat. This too might 
 be called, by way of pre-eminence, the Tarbat, from a very An- 
 gular circumftance related by Torf<eus *. When Magnus the 
 barefooted, King of Norway, obtained from Donald-bane of Scot- 
 land the ceflion of the Weftern ifles, or all thofe places that 
 could be furrounded in a boat, he added to them the penin- 
 fula of Cantyre by this fraud : he placed himfelf in the ftern 
 of a boat, held the rudder, was drawn over this narrow tract, 
 and by this fpecies of navigation wrefted the country from his 
 brother monarch. 
 
 * Hiji. Oread. 73. 
 
 In
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 In the afternoon attempt to turn out, but am driven back by an 
 adverfe gale. 
 
 Get out early in the morning into the fame expanfe as before : June 20. 
 
 land on Inch-Bui, or the yellow ifle ; an entire rock, covered with 
 the Lichen parietinus. Sail by In:h Jkaite \ amufed by the fporting 
 of feals. Hail a fmall fiming-boat, in order to purchafe fome of 
 its cargo : am anfv/ered by the owner, that he would not fell any, 
 but that part was at my fervice •, a piece of generofity of greater 
 merit, as in this fcarce feafon the fubfhnce of the whole family 
 depended on the good fortune of the day. Thus in thefe parts 
 hofpitality is found even among the mod indigent. 
 
 Moil of the morning was pafTed in a dead calm : in the after- 
 noon fucceeded brifk gales, but from points not the moil favor- 
 able, which occafioned frequent tacks in fight of port : in one 
 broke our top-fail yard. During thefe variations of our courfe, 
 had good opportunity of obferving the compofition of the ifle 
 of Arran : a ieries of vail mountains, running in ridges acrofs 
 the whole ; their tops broken, ferrated, or fpiring ; the fummit 
 of Goatfield rifing far above the reft, and. the fides of all Hoping 
 towards the water edge :. a fcene,. at this diilance, of favage 
 flerility. 
 
 Another calm within two miles of land : take to the boat, and 
 approach Loch-Ranza, a fine bay, at the N. end of 
 
 The ifle of Arran, 
 
 where I land in the evening. The approach was magnificent : a 
 fine bay in front, about a mile deep, having a ruined caftle near 
 the lower end, on a low far projecting neck of land, that forms 
 
 another 
 
 191
 
 192 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 another harbour, with a narrow paffage •, but within has three 
 fathom of water, even at the loweft ebb. Beyond is a little plain 
 watered by a ftream : and inhabited by the people of a final! 
 villaae. The whole is environed with a theatre of mountains •, 
 and in the back ground the ferrated crags of Grianan-Athol foar 
 above. 
 Castle. Vifit the caftle, which confifts of two fquare parts united, built 
 
 of red grit (lone : in one room is a chimney piece, and fire place 
 large enough to have roafted an ox : but now flrewed with the 
 fhells of limpets, the hard fare of the poor people who occasion- 
 ally take refuge here. 
 
 This fortrels was founded by one of the Scottifo monarchs, and 
 is of lbme antiquity, for Fordun> who wrote about the year 1380, 
 (peaks of this and Brodie, as royal caftles. 
 
 The village of Ranza and a fmall church lie a little farther in 
 the plain. The laft was founded and endowed by Anne Dutcheis of 
 Hamilton^ in aid of the church of Kilbride ; one of the two parifhes 
 this great ifland is divided into. 
 Basking Shark* ^m inFormed of a balking mark that had been harpooned 
 fome days before, and lay on the fhore, on the oppofite fide of the 
 bay. Crofs over to take a view of a fifh fo rarely to be met with 
 in other parts of Great Britain •, and find it a moniler, notwithstand- 
 ing it was much inferior in fize to others that are fometimes taken ; 
 for there have been inftances of their being from thirty-fix to forty 
 feet in length. 
 
 This was twenty-feven feet four inches long. The tail con- 
 firmed of two unequal lobes : the upper five feet long : the lower 
 three. The circumference of the body great : the ikin cinereous : 
 
 and
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 and rough. The upper jaw much longer than the lower. The 
 teeth minute, difpofed in numbers along the jaws. The eyes 
 placed at only fourteen inches diftance from the tip of the nofe. 
 The apertures to the gills very long, and furnifhed with ftrainers 
 of the fubftance of whalebone. 
 
 Thefe fifh are called in the Erfe, Cairban ; by the Scotch, Sail- 
 jijh, from the appearance of the dorfal fins above water. They 
 " inhabit mod parts of the weftern coafts of the northern feas : 
 Linnaus fays within the arclic circle : they are found lower, on 
 the coafl of Norway, about the Orbiey ides, the Hebrides; and 
 on the coafl of Ireland in the bay of Balifiannon, and on the 
 Weljh coafts about Anglefea. They appear in the Firth in June 
 in fmall fhoals of feven or eight, continue there till the end of 
 July and then difappear. They are moft inoffenfive fifh ; feed 
 either on exanguious marine animals, or an alga, nothing being 
 ever found in their flomachs except fome diflblved greenifh 
 matter, 
 
 They fwim very deliberately with their two dorfal fins above 
 water, and feem quiefcent as if afleep. They are very tame or very 
 ftupid •, and permi he near approach of man : will fuffer a boat to 
 follow them without accelerating their motion, till it comes almoft 
 within contact, when a harpooner flrikes his weapon into the fifh 
 as near the gills as poflible : but they are often fo infenfible as 
 not to move until the united ftrength of two men has forced in 
 the harpoon deeper : as foon as they perceive themfelves wounded, 
 they fling up their tail and plunge headlong to the bottom, and 
 frequently coil the rope round them in their agcnies, attempting 
 to difengage themfelves from the weapon by rolling on the ground, 
 
 C c for 
 
 *9i
 
 i94 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 for it is often found greatly bent. As foon as they difcover that 
 their efforts are in vain, they fwim away with amazing rapidity, 
 and with fuch violence that a veffel of 70 tuns, has been towed 
 by them againft a frefh gale : they fometimes run off with 200 
 fathoms of line, and with two harpoons in them ; and will find 
 employ to the fifhers for twelve and fometimes twenty-four hours 
 before they are fubdued. When killed they are either hauled on 
 more, or if at a diftance, to the veffel's fide. The liver (the 
 only ufeful part) is taken out and melted into oil in veffels pro- 
 vided for that purpofe : a large fifh will yield eight barrels of oil, 
 and two of fediment, and prove a profitable capture. 
 
 The commifTioners of forfeited eftates were at confiderable ex- 
 pence in encouraging this fpecies of fifhery ; but the perfon they 
 confided in, moil fhamefully abufed their goodnefs ; fo at prefent 
 it is only attempted by private adventurers. 
 
 Return, land again and walk through a pretty wood of fmall 
 trees, up the fide of a hill that bounds the weftern fide of the 
 bay. A gigantic frog * of the fpecies called by Linnaeus, Bombina y 
 prefented itielf on the path. In the courle of our ramble, fall in 
 with the manfe, or minifter's habitation ; pafs a chearful evening 
 with him, and meet with a hearty welcome, and the bed fare the 
 place would afford. Return to our fhip, which had anchored in 
 the bay. 
 Tune 2». Procure horfes, and (accompanied by Mr. Lindfay, the minifter) 
 
 ride up the valley, crols the little river Ranza, and leave that and 
 a corn-mill on the right. Afcend the fteeps of the barren moun- 
 
 * J7<& Enumeration of Animals and Plants, No. 231. 
 
 tains,
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 I -, 
 
 -tains, with precipices often on the one fide of our path, of which 
 our obftinate fteeds preferred the very margin. See to the Weft 
 the great crags of Grianan-Athol, with eagles foaring over their 
 naked fummits. Pafs through woods of birch, fmall, weather- 
 beaten and blafted : defcend by Mac-farlane's Cam, crofs the water 
 of Bannocks, near the village of the fame name : fee a low mo- 
 numental (tone -, keep along the Eaftern coaft ; hear a fermon 
 .preached beneath a tent formed of fails, on the beach ; the con- 
 gregation numerous, devout, and attentive, feated along the fhore, 
 forming a groupe picturefque and edifying. 
 
 Dine at the Carry •, a fmall houfe, belonging to a gentleman of 
 Airjhire, who vifits this place for the benefit of goats whey. 
 
 Much barrenefs in the morning's ride : on the mountains were 
 great maffes of mocr-ftone ; on the fhore, mill-ftone, and red grit- 
 ftone. 
 
 The ride is continued along the coaft, beneath low cliffs, whofe 
 flimmits were cloathed with heath that hung from their margins, 
 and feemed to diftil fhowers of cryftalline water from every leaf, 
 the effect of the various fprings above. Meet a flock of goats, 
 ■fkipping along the more, attended by their herdfman ; and ob- 
 ferved them collecting, as they went, and chewing with great de- 
 light, the fea plants. Reach 
 
 Brodie caftle, feated on an eminence amidft flourifhing plants- Brodie castlb* 
 tions, above a fmall bay, open to the Eaft. This place has not 
 at prefent much the appearance of a fortrefs, having been mo- 
 dernized; is inhabited by the Duke of Hamilton's agent, who en- 
 tertained me with the utmoft civility. It is a place of much an- 
 tiquity, and feems to have been the fort held by the Engli/Jj un- 
 
 C c 2 der
 
 i 9 & A VOYAGE to the 
 
 der Sir John Hajlings, in 1306, when it was furprizcd by the par- 
 tizans of Robert Bruce, and the garrifon put to the iword. It 
 was demolifhed in 1456 by the Earl of Rofs, in the reign of James 
 II. is faid to have been rebuilt by James V. and to have been gar- 
 rifoned in the time of Cromw el's uiurpation. Few are the records 
 preferved. of thefe diitant places, therefore very wide muft be 
 their hiftoric gaps* 
 History. Arran, or properly Arr-inn, or the ifland of mountains, feems 
 
 not to have been noticed by the antients, notwithftanding it mull 
 have been known to the Romans, whofe navy, from the time of 
 Agricola, had its ftation in the Glota Mftuarium, or the Firth of 
 Clyde: Camden indeed makes this ifland the Glota of Antonine, but 
 no fuch name ocurs in his itinerary; it therefore was bellowed on 
 Arran by fome of his commentators^ 
 
 By the immenfe cairns, the vail monumental flones, and many 
 reliques of druidifm, this ifland mufl have been confiderable in 
 very antient times.. Here are ftill traditions of the hero Fingal, 
 or Fin-mac- coul, who is fuppofed here to have enjoyed the plea- 
 fures of the chace ; and many places retain his name : but I can 
 difcover .nothing but oral hiftory that relates to the ifland, till the 
 time of Magnus the barefooted, the Norwegian victor, who pro- 
 bably included Arran in his conquefts of Cantyre *. If he did 
 not conquer that ifland, it was certainly included among thofe 
 that Donald- bane was to cede; for it; appears that Achof, one 
 of the fucceflbrs of Magnus, in 1263, laid clame to Arran, Bute± 
 and the Cumrays, in conlequence of that promife : the two firfl; . 
 
 *• Torfceus, 71. f Buchanan, lib. vii. c. 62. 
 
 he
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 Be fubdued, but the defeat he met with at Largs foon obliged him 
 to give up his conquefts. 
 
 Arran was the property of the crown : Robert Bruce retired here 
 during his diftrefTes, and met with protection from his faithful 
 vafTals : numbers of them followed his fortunes; and, after the 
 battle of Bannockbourn he rewarded feveral, fuch as the Mac- cooks, 
 Mac-kinnons, Mac-brides, and Mac-louts, or Fullertons, with different 
 charters of lands in their native country. All thefe are now ab- 
 forbed by this great family, except the Fullertons and a Stuart, 
 defcended from a fon of Robert III. who gave him a fettlement here. 
 In the time of the Bean of the Ifles, his defcendent porTerTed caftle 
 Dcuan ; and he and his bluid, fays the dean, are the bejl men in that 
 countrey. 
 
 The manner in which Robert Bruce difcovered his arrival to his 
 friends, is fo defcriptive of the fimplicity of the times, that it 
 merits notice, in the very words of the faithful old poet, hiftorian 
 of that great prince : 
 
 The King then blew his horn in by, 
 
 And gart his men that were him by, 
 
 Hold them flill in privitie : 
 
 And fyn again his horn blew he : 
 
 James of Dowglas heard him blow, 
 
 And well the blaft foon can he know : 
 
 And faid furelie yon is the King, 
 
 I ken him well by his blowing : 
 
 The third time therewith als he blew, 
 
 And then Sir Robert Boyde him knew, 
 
 And faid, yon is the King but dreed, 
 
 Go we will forth to him good fpeed* Barbour* 
 
 About 
 
 19;
 
 igl A VOYAGE to the 
 
 About the year 1334 this ifland appears to have formed part of 
 the eftate of Robert Stuart, great fteward of Scotland, afterwards 
 Robert the lid. At that time * the inhabitants took arms to iupport 
 the caufe of their matter, who afterwards, in reward, not only granted 
 at their requeft an immunity from their annual tribute of corn, 
 but added feveral new privileges, and a donative to all the inha- 
 bitants that were prefent. 
 
 In 1456 the whole ifland was ravaged by Donald Earl of Rofs, 
 and lord of the ifles. At that period it was ftill the property of 
 James II. but in the reign of his fucceflbr, James III. when that 
 monarch matched his filter to Thomas Lord Boyd, he created him 
 Earl of Arran, and gave him the ifland as a portion : foon after, 
 on the difgrace of that family, he caufed the countefs to be di- 
 vorced from her unfortunate hufband •, and bellowed both the 
 lady and ifland on Sir James Hamilton, in whole family it conti- 
 nues to this time, a very few farms excepted. 
 Extent. Arran is of great extent, being twenty-three miles from Sgrea- 
 
 dan point north to Beinnean fouth •, and the number of inhabi- 
 tants are about feven thoufand, who chiefly inhabit the coafts ; 
 the far greater part of the country being uninhabitable by reafon 
 of the valt and barren mountains. Here are only two parifhes, 
 Parishes. Kilbride and Kilmore, with a fort of chapel of eafe to each, founded 
 in the laft century, in the golden age of this ifland, when it was 
 bleft with Anne Dutchefs of Hamilton, whofe amiable difpofition 
 and humane attention to the welfare of Arran, render at this 
 diftant time, her memory dear to every inhabitant. Blefled pre- 
 
 * Botthius, 318. 
 
 eminence 1
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 199 
 
 eminence ! when power and inclination to diffufe happinefs concur 
 in perfons of rank. 
 
 The principal mountains of Arran are, Goat-field, or Gaoil- Mountains. 
 bheinn, or the mountain of the winds, of a height equal to moft 
 of the Scottiflj Alps, compofed of immenfe piles of moor ftone, 
 in form of woolpacks, cloathed only with lichens and mofles, 
 inhabited by eagles and ptarmigans. Beinn bbarrain, or the marp- 
 pointed ; Ceum-na-caillich, the ftep of the carline or old hao- ; and 
 Grianan-Athol, that yields to none in ruggednefs. 
 
 The lakes are Lochjorfa, where falmon come to fpavvn. Loch- Lakes, 
 
 tana; Loch na-h -jura, on the top of a high hill; Loch-mhachrai, 
 and Loch-knoc a charbcil, full of large eels. The chief rivers are 
 Abhan mhor, moina-mhor, Slaodrai-machrai and Jorfa-, the two 
 laft remarkable for the abundance of falmon. 
 
 The quadrupeds are very few : only otters, wild cats, fhrew Qjuadrupbds. 
 mice, rabbets and bats : the flags which ufed to abound, are now 
 reduced to about a dozen. The birds are eagles, hooded crows, 
 wild pigeons, ftares, black game, grous, ptarmigans, daws, green Birds. 
 
 plovers and curlews. Mr. Stuart in afcending Goatfield found the 
 fecondary feather of an eagle, white with a brown fpot at the 
 bafe, which feemed to belong to fome unknown fpecies. It may 
 be remarked that the patridge, at prefent inhabits this ifland, a 
 proof of the advancement of agriculture. 
 
 The climate is very fevere : for befides the violence of winds, Climate. 
 the cold is very rigorous ; and fnow lay here in the vallies for 
 thirteen weeks of the laft winter. In fummer the air is remark- 
 ably falubrious, and many invalids relbrt here on that account, 
 and to drink the whey of goats milk. 
 
 The
 
 200 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Diseases. i^ e principal difeafe here is the pleurify : fmall-pox, meaftes 
 
 and chin-cough vifit the ifland once in feven or eight years. The 
 practice of bleeding twice every year feems to have been intended 
 as a preventitive againft the pleurify : but it is now performed with 
 the utmoft regularity at fpring and fall. The Duke of Hamilton 
 keeps a furgeon in pay ; who at thofe feafons makes a tour of 
 the ifland. On notice of his approach, the inhabitants of each 
 farm afTemble in the open air; extend their arms; and are bled 
 into a hole made in the ground, the common receptacle of the 
 vital fluid. 
 
 In burning fevers a tea of wood forrel is ufed with fuccefs, to 
 allay the heat. 
 
 An infufion of Ramfons or allium urfinum in brandy is efleemed 
 here a good remedy for the gravel. 
 Natives. The men are ftrong, tall and well made; all fpeak the Erfe 
 
 language, but the antient habit is entirely laid afide. Their diet 
 is chiefly potatoes and meal ; and during winter, fome dried mut- 
 ton or goat is added to their hard fare. A deep dejection ap- 
 pears in general through the countenances of all : no time can 
 be fpared for amufement of any kind; the whole being given for 
 procuring the means of paying their rent; of laying in their fuel, 
 or getting a fcanty pittance of meat and cloathing. 
 .Farms. The leafes of farms are 19 years. The fucceeding tenants generally 
 
 find the ground little better than a caput mortuum ; and for this 
 reafon ; fhould they at the expiration of the leafe leave the lands 
 in a good (late, fome avaritious neighbors would have the prefer- 
 ence in the next fetting, by offering a price more than the per- 
 fon who had expended part of his fubftance in inriching the farm 
 
 could
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 20 1 
 
 could pofiibly do. This induces them to leave it in the orio-inal 
 ftate. 
 
 The method of letting a farm is very lingular : each is com- Run-Rig Far 
 monly poffeffed by a number of fmall tenants j thus a farm of 
 forty pounds a year is occupied by eighteen different people, who 
 by their leafes are bound, conju nelly and feverally, for the pay- 
 ment of the rent to the proprietor. Thefe live in the farm in 
 houfes cluftered together, fo that each farm appears like a little 
 village. The tenants annually divide the arable land by lot ; each 
 has his ridge of land, to which he puts his mark, fuch as he 
 would do to any writing : and this fpecies of farm is called, run- 
 rig^ i. e. ridge. They join in ploughing; every one keeps a 
 horfe or more; and the number of thofe animals confume fo 
 much corn as often to occafion a fcarcity •, the corn and peas raifed 
 being (much of it) defigned for their fubfiftance, and that of the 
 cattle, during the long Winter. The pafture and moor-land an- 
 nexed to the farm is common to all the pofTefTors. 
 
 All the farms are open. Inclofures of any form, except in two 
 or three places, are quite unknown : fo that there muft be a great 
 lofs of time in preserving their corn, &c. from trefpafs. The 
 ufual manure is fea-plants, coral and fhells. 
 
 The Run-rig farms are now difcouraged ; but fince the tene- 
 ments are iet by Roup, or auction, and advanced by an unnatu- 
 ral force to above double the old rent, without any allowance for 
 inclofing ; any example fet in agriculture ; any fecurity of tenure, 
 by lengthening the leafes ; affairs will turn retrograde, and the 
 farms relapfe into their old ftate of rudenefs ; migration will en- 
 creafe (for it has begun) and the rents be reduced even below their 
 
 D d former 
 
 MS.
 
 202 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 former value : the late rents were fcarce twelve hundred a year ; 
 the expected rents three thoufand. 
 Produce. The produce of the iQand is oats ; of which about five thou- 
 
 fand bolls, each equal to nine Winchejier bufhels, are fown : five 
 hundred of beans, a few peas, and above a thoufand bolls of po- 
 tatoes, are annually fet : notwithstanding this, five hundred bolls 
 of oat-meal are annually imported, to fubfift the natives. 
 
 The live flock of the ifland is 3183 milch cows-, 2000 cattle, 
 from one to three years old j 1058 horfes ; 1500 fheep •, and 500 
 aoats : many of the two laft are killed at Michaelmas, and dried 
 for winter provifion, or fold at Greenock. The cattle are fold from 
 forty to fifty (hillings per head, which brings into the ifland about 
 1200/. per annum : I think that the fale of horfes alfo brings in 
 about 300 /. Hogs were introduced here only two years ago. The 
 herrino- fifhery round the ifland brings in 300 /. the fale of herring- 
 nets 100/. and that of thread about 300/. for a good deal of flax 
 is fown here. Thefe are the exports of the ifland 5 but the money 
 that goes out for mere neceflfaries is a melancholy drawback. 
 
 The women manufacture the wool for the cloathing of their fa- 
 milies •, they fet the potatoes, and drefs and fpin the flax. They 
 make butter for exportation, and cheefe for their own ufe. 
 
 The inhabitants in general are fober, religious and induftrious : 
 o-reat part of the Summer is employed in getting peat for fuel, the 
 only kind in ufe here •, or in building or repairing their houfes, 
 for the badnefs of the materials requires annual repairs : before 
 and after harveft they are bufied in the herring fifhery j and dur- 
 ing Winter the men make their herring-nets ; while the women 
 are employed in fpinning their linnen and woollen yarn. The 
 
 light
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 203 
 
 light they often ufe is that of lamps. From the beginning of 
 February to the end of May, if the weather permits, they are engaged 
 in laboring their ground : in Autumn they burn a great quantity 
 of fern, to make kelp. So that, excepting at new-year's-day, at 
 marriages, or at the two or three fairs in the illand, they have no 
 leifure for any amufements : no wonder is there then at their depref- 
 fion of fpirits. 
 
 This forms part of the county of Bute, and is fubject to the fame Government, 
 fort of government : but befides,jufticeis adminiflered at the baron's 
 baily-court, who has power to fine as high as twenty fhillings j can 
 decide in matters of property, not exceeding forty millings ; can 
 imprifon for a month \ and put delinquents into the flocks for three 
 hours, but that only during day time. 
 
 Take a ride into the country : defcend into the valley at the head J UNE 22 » 
 of the bay ; fertile in barley, oats and peas. See two great {tones, 
 in form of columns, fet erect, but quite rude: thefe are common to 
 many nations ; are frequent in North Wales, where they are called 
 main hirion, i. e. tall Hones, meini gwir, or men pillars, and Heche : 
 are frequent in Cornwall and are alfo found in other parts of our 
 ifland : their ufe is of great antiquity \ are mentioned in the Mofaic 
 writings as memorials of the dead, as monuments of friendfhip, as 
 marks to diftinguifh places of worfhip, or of folemn afTemblies*. 
 The Northern nations erected them to perpetuate the memory of 
 great actions, fuch as remarkable duels ; of which there are proofs 
 both in Denmark and in Scotland ; and the number of (tones was pro- 
 portionable to the number of great men who fell in the fight -f : but 
 
 * Jojhuay xxiv. 26. 
 
 f Wormii Monum. Dan, 6z, 63. Boetbius, Scot. pri/c, tt rtcintts meres, 10. 
 
 D d 2 they
 
 204 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 they were befides erected merely as fepulchral for peribns of rank *, 
 who had deferved well of their country. 
 Singular Not far from hence is a fbone, the moll fingular that I ever 
 
 tomb-stone. remem ber to have feen, and the only one of the kind that ever fell 
 within my observation : this lies on the ground, is twelve feet 
 lono-, two broad, one thick-, has at one end the rude attempt to 
 carve a head and moulders, and was certainly the firft deviation 
 from the former fpecies of monument -, the firft effay to give to {tone 
 a refemblance to the human body. All that the natives fay of this, 
 that it was placed over a giant, and is called Mac Bhrolchirfs 
 
 ftone. 
 
 Afcend a fteep hill, with vaft gullies on the fide ; and, on de- 
 fcendino-, arrive in a plain inhabited by curlews, reforting there to 
 breed, and which flew round our heads like lapwings. At a place 
 called Mom-quil\s a fmall circle of fmall (tones, placed clofe to each 
 other : whether a little druidical place of worfhip, or of afTembly ; 
 or whether a family place of fepulture, as is ufual f with the 
 Northern nations, is not eafy to determine. If an urn is found in 
 the centre of this coronet, as is not uncommon, the doubt will 
 ceafe. 
 River Machrai. P ^ s b Y tne river Machrai, flowing through a rocky channel, 
 which, in one part has worn thro' a rock, and left fo contracted a 
 crap at the top as to form a v£ry eafy ftep a-crofs. Yet not long ago 
 
 * Hijl. Scot. 20. 
 
 f Olaus Magnus, lib. i.e. 1 6. Various circles of this nature are engraven in 
 Dahlberg's Suecia hodierna et antiqua. tab. 104. Other very curious antiquities 
 fimilarto thefe, are preferved in tab. 280,281, 315,322, and 323. 
 
 a poor .
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 20' 
 
 a poor woman in the attempt, after getting one foot over, was ftruck 
 with fuch horror at the tremendous torrent beneath, that fhe remained 
 for fome hours in that attitude, not daring to bring her other foot 
 over, till fome kind paffenger luckily came by, and aflifted her out 
 of her diftrefs.. 
 
 Arrive at Tormore, an extenfive plain of good ground, but quite 
 in a ftate of nature : feems formerly to have been cultivated, for 
 there appear feveral veftiges of dikes, which might have ferved as 
 boundaries. There is a tradition that in old times the mores were 
 covered with woods ; and this was the habitable part. 
 
 The want of trees in the internal part at prefent, and the 
 kindly manner in which they grow about Brodic> favor this 
 opinion. 
 
 On this plain are the remains of four circles, in a line, extending Circles of 
 N. E. by S. W. i very few ftones are {landing to perfect the in- stones. 
 
 clofure, but thofe are of a great fize ; and Hand remote from each 
 other. One is fifteen feet high and eleven in circumference. On the 
 outfide of thefe circles are two others : one differs from all I have 
 feen, confifting of a double circle of ftones and a mound within the 
 lefTer. Near thefe are the reliques of aftone chcft, formed of five 
 flat ftones, the length of two yards in the infide : the lid or top i s 
 loft. In the middle of thefe repofitories were placed the urn filled 
 with the allies of the dead to prevent its being broken •, or to keep 
 the earth from mixing with the burnt remains. In all probability 
 there had been a Cairn or heap of ftones above. 
 
 By the number of the circles j and by their fequeftred fituation, 
 this feems to have been facred ground. Thefe circles were formed 
 for religious purpofes : Boethim relates, that Mainus 3 fon of Fergus I. 
 
 are-
 
 206 AVOYAGEtothe 
 
 a reftorer and cultivator of religion after the Egyptian manner (as 
 he calls it) inftituted feveral new and folemn ceremonies : and 
 caufed great Hones to be placed in form of a circle; the largeft 
 was fituated towards the South, and ferved as an altar for the fa- 
 crifices to the immortal gods *. Boethius is right in part of his ac- 
 count : but the object of the worfhip was the fun -j-, and what con- 
 firms this, is the fituation of the altar pointed towards that luminary 
 in his meridian glory. In this place the altar and many of the ftones 
 are loft; probably carried to build houfes and dikes not very remote 
 from the place. 
 A cairn. At a fmall diftance farther is a cairn of a moft ftupendous fize, 
 
 formed of great pebbles : which are preferved from being fcattered 
 about by a circle of large ftones, that furround the whole bafe : a 
 circumflance fometimes ufual in thefe monumental heaps J. 
 
 Defcend through a narrow cleft of a rock to a part of the 
 weftern more called Drum-an-duin, or the ridge of the fort, from 
 a round tower that ftands above. The beach is bounded by 
 cliffs of whitifri grit ftone, hollowed beneath into vaft caves. 
 Finoal'j cave. The moft remarkable are thofe of Fin-mac-cuil, or Fingal, the fon 
 of Cumhal, the father of OJftan, who, tradition fays, refided in 
 this ifland for the fake of hunting. One of thefe caverns is a 
 hundred and twelve feet long, and thirty high, narrowing to the 
 top like a gothic arch ; towards the end it branches into two : 
 within thefe two recefles, which penetrate far, are on each fide 
 
 * Boethius, lib. 1 1. p. 15. 
 
 f Dottor Macpberfon, p. 314, and Mr. Macpherfon, p. 162. 
 
 X Borlaft Antiq. Cornival, tab. xvii. fig. 4« 
 
 feveral
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 feveral fmall holes, oppofue to each other: in thefe were placed 
 tranfverfe beams, that held the pots in which the heroes feethed 
 their venifon ; or probably, according to the mode of the times 
 the bags * formed of the fkins of animals (lain in the chace, 
 which were filled with flefh, and ferved as kettles fufficiently 
 flrong to warm the contents j for the heroes of old devoured their 
 meat half raw f, holding, that the juices contained the beft nou- 
 rifiiment. 
 
 On the front of the divifion between thefe recefTes, and on one 
 fide, are various very rude figures, cut on the ftone, of men, of 
 animals, and of a clymore or two-handed fword : but whether thefe 
 were the amufements of the Fingallian age, or of after-times, is 
 not eafy to be afcertained ; for caves were the retreats of pirates 
 as well as heroes. Here are feveral other hollows adjacent, which 
 are fhewn as the ftable, cellars and dog-kennel of the great Mac- 
 mil : one cave, which is not honored with a name, is remarkably 
 fine, of great extent, covered with a beautiful flat roof, and very 
 well lighted by two auguft arches at each end : through one is a 
 fine perfpective of the promontory Carn-baan^ or the white heap of 
 ftones whofe fide -exhibits a long range of columnar rocks (not ba- 
 faltic) of hard grey whin-ftone, refting on a horizontal ftratum of red 
 ftone : at the extremity one of the columns is infulated, and forms a 
 fine obelifk. 
 
 After riding fome time along the fhore, afcend the promontory : 
 on the fummit is an antient retreat, fecured on the land fide by a 
 great dike of loofe ftones, that inclofes the acceffible part; within 
 
 * Major t lib. v* p. 215. + Bat hi us mores Scot. n. 
 
 is 
 
 207
 
 20 8 A VOYAGE to tke 
 
 is a fingle ftone, fet erect ; perhaps to mark the fpot where 
 the chieftain held his council, or from whence he delivered his 
 orders. 
 
 From this ftone is a fine view of Cantyre, the Weftern fide of Arran, 
 being feparated from it by a flrait about eight miles wide. 
 A cairn. Leave the hills, and fee at Feorling another ftupendous cairn, a 
 
 hundred and fourteen feet over, and of a vaft height ; and from two 
 of the oppofite fides are two vaft ridges ; the whole formed of 
 rounded ilones, or pebbles, brought from the fhores. Thefe im- 
 menfe accumulations of ftone-s are the fepulchral protections of the 
 heroes among the antient natives of our iftands : the ftone-chefts, 
 the repofitor.y of the urns and allies, are lodged in the earth beneath; 
 fometimes one, fometimes more, are found thus depofited ; and I 
 have one inftance of as many as feventeen of thefe ftone chefts being 
 difcovered under the fame cairn. The learned have afligned other 
 caufes for thefe heaps of ftones ; have fuppofed them to have been, 
 in times of inauguration, the places where the chieftain- elect ftood to 
 mew himfelf to the beft advantage to the people -, or the place from 
 whence judgment was pronounced ; or to have been erected on. the 
 road fide in honor of Mercury ; or to have been formed in memory 
 of fome folemn compact *. Thefe might have been the reafons, 
 in fome inftances, where the evidences of ftone chefts and urns 
 are wanting ; but thole generally are found to overthrow all other 
 fyftems. 
 
 Thefe piles may be juftly fuppofed to have been proportioned in 
 fize to the rank of the perfon, or to his popularity : the people of a 
 
 • Vide Rowland* 't men. ant. 50. Borla/e antiq. Cornwall 209. 
 
 whole
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 whole diftricl aflembled to fhew their refpeet to the deceafed, and, 
 by an active honoring of his memory, foon accumulated heaps equal 
 to thofe that aftonifh us at this time. But thefe honors were not 
 merely thofe of the day ; as long as the memory of the deceafed en- 
 dured, not a paffenger went by without adding a (tone to the heap : 
 they fuppofed it would be an honor to the dead, and acceptable to 
 his manes. 
 
 Quanquam feftlnas, non eft mora longa : liccbit 
 Injedto ter pulvere, curras. 
 
 To this moment there is a proverbial expreffion among the 
 highlanders allufive to the old practice: a fuppliant will tell his 
 patron, Curri mi cloch er do charm *, I will add a ftone to your cairn, 
 meaning, when you are no more I will do all pofTible honor to your 
 memory. 
 
 There was another fpecies of honor paid to the chieftains, that I 
 believe is ftill retained in this ifland, but the reafon is quite loft : 
 that of fwearing by his name, and paying as great a refped: to that 
 as to the molt facred oath f : a familiar one in Arran is, by Nail : 
 it is at prefent unintelligible, yet is fufpecled to have been the name 
 of fome antient hero. 
 
 Thefe cairns are to be found in all parts of our iflands, in Corn- 
 wall Wales, and all parts of N. Britain ; they were in ufe among the 
 Northern nations ; Dahlberg, in his 323d plate has given the figure 
 of one. In Wales they are called Carneddau ; but the proverb taken 
 from them, with us, is not of the complimental kind : Karn ar dy 
 ben, or, a cairn on your head is a token of imprecation. 
 
 * Dottor Maepber/on, 319. t Bottbius, lib. 1. p. 4. 
 
 E e Dine 
 
 209
 
 MO 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Dine at Skeddag, a fmall hamlet: after dinner, on the road fide,, 
 fee, in Shijkin or Sea/gain church-yard, a tomb called that of St. Maol- 
 St. Maol-Jos. y 0Si that is, The fervant of Jesus. The faint is reprefented in the 
 habit of a prieft, with a chalice in his hands, and a crofier by him : 
 the (tone was broken about half a year ago by fome facrilegious 
 fellow, in fearch of treafure ; but an iflander, who flood by, affured 
 me, that the attempt did not go unpunihYd, for foon after the auda- 
 cious wretch was vifited with a broken leg. 
 
 St. Maol-Jos was a companion of St. Columba : the laft chofe Jona 
 for the place of his refidence ; this faint fixed on the little ifland of 
 Lamlajh, and officiated by turns at Sty/kin, where he died at the age 
 of a hundred, and was there interred. 
 
 In this evening's ride pafs by fome farms, the only cultivated 
 tract in the internal parts of the country : faw one of forty pounds 
 a year, which had fixty acres of arable land annexed to it. Am 
 informed that the general fize or value of farms was eight or nine 
 pounds a year. 
 
 Return to Brodic caflle, 
 T „„ Take a ride to vifit other parts of the ifland : go through the 
 
 JUNE ^3 * 
 
 villao-e of Brodic, at a fmall diftance beneath the caftle. Vifit Glen- 
 Tumuli. cloy, a plain, on which are five earthen tumuli, or barrows, placed 
 
 in a row, with another on the outfide of them : on the top of one is 
 a depreffion, or hollow ; on that of another is a circle of ftones, 
 whofe ends juft appear above the earth. Thefe are probably the 
 memorial of fome battle : the common men were placed beneath 
 the plain barrows j the leaders under thofe diftinguifhed by the 
 ftones. 
 
 Pafs by the ruins of Kirk-micbel chapel : vifit Mr. Fullerton, 
 
 defcended
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 211 
 
 defcended from the Mac-Louis, originally a French family, but 
 fettled in this ifland near feven hundred years. He is one of the 
 leffer proprietors of this ifland : his farm is neat, well cultivated, 
 and incloied with very thriving hedges. Robert Bruce, out of orati- 
 tude for the protection he received from this gentleman's anceftor, 
 Fergus Fullerton, gave him a charter, dated at Arnele, Nov. 26, in the 
 2d year of his reign, for the lands of Killmichel and Aryjohonyne, or 
 Straitb-ougblian, which are ftill in the family. 
 
 A mile farther is a retreat of the antient inhabitants, called Torr- 
 nn-fchian, caftle, furrounded with a great ftone dike. Here Robert 
 Bruce fheltered himfelf for fome time, under the protection of Mac- 
 Louis. 
 
 Two miles farther Eafl, near the top of the great hill Dunfuin^ on Stones, fossils, 
 the brow, is a great ftratum of moll fingular flone, of a dull black- &c » 
 
 green call, fmooth gloffy furface, mattery in its compofition, femi- 
 tranfparent, in fmall pieces, and of a moft vitreous appearance : it 
 fometimes breaks into forms rather regular, and like thofe of that 
 fpecies called Iceland cryftal ; but cannot be reduced to that clafs, as 
 it ftrikes fire with fteel, and refufes to ferment with acids. Some 
 pieces, more mature, break like glafs ; of which it feems an imper- 
 fect fpecies, lefs pure than the Iceland agate *, and like that to have 
 been the effect of a vulcano. 
 
 The other foflll productions of this ifland, that I had an opportu- 
 nity of feeing, were, 
 
 An iron ore, Bolus martialis Cronsted, feet. 87, 207. 
 
 A moft ponderous white fpar, in all probability containing lead, 
 found near Sannox. 
 
 * Pumex vitrcus, Lin./yft, iii. 182. 
 
 E e 2 The
 
 212 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 The ftone called Breccia quartzofa, Cronsted, feci:. 275. 
 
 Schiftus ardefia of Linn/eus, p. 38. No. 5. A fine fmooth black 
 kind of Hate. 
 
 Granites durus grifeus of Cronsted, feet. 270, No. 26. Like 
 our Cornijh moorftone, but the particles finer. 
 
 Very fine and large black cryftals, that would be ufeful to feai- 
 cutters and lapidaries. 
 
 Great variety of beautiful Sardonyxes ; and other beautiful ftone;;', 
 indifcriminately called Scotch pebbles. 
 
 A coal-mine has formerly been worked near the Cock of Arran, at 
 the N. end of the ifland. The coal had all the qualities of that of 
 Kilkenny, and might prove of the utmoft benefit to this country, was 
 the work purfued •, not only as it might prove the means of reftoring 
 the falt-pans, which formerly flourifhed here, but be of the utmoft 
 benefit to agriculture, in burning the lime-ftone which abounds in 
 many parts. 
 A cairn. l n tne courfe of my ride, on the other fide of the hill of Dunfuir^ 
 
 facing the bay of Lamlajh, faw, on the road fide a cairn, of a diffe- 
 rent kind to what I had feen before : it was large, of an oblong 
 form, and compofed like the others, of round ftones ; but along the 
 top was a feries of cells, fome entire, but many fallen in ; each was 
 covered with afingle flat ftone of a great fize, refting on others up- 
 right, that ferved as fupports •, but I could not count them by reafon 
 of the lapfe of the leffer ftones. Doctor Borlafe fays, that in Corn* 
 wal the number of upright ftones are three ; but in Wales they fome- 
 iimes exceed that number. 
 
 Fhefe cells are called in Wales, Cromleh and Ceji-va en or ftone 
 chefts : are fpoken of largely by Mr. Rowland*, and by Doctor 
 
 Borlafe,
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 Borlafe *, and by Wormius f , under the name of Ara, or altar : 
 the firft is divided in his opinion, for he parly inclines to the 
 notion of their having been altars, partly to their havino- been 
 fepulchres : he fuppofes them to have been originally tombs, 
 but that in after-times facrifices were performed on them to 
 the heroes depofited in them : but there can be no doubt of 
 the former. Mr. Kev/lerf preferves an account of King Harold 
 having been interred beneath a tomb of this kind in Den- 
 mark ; and Mr. Wright difcovered in Ireland a fkeleton depo- 
 fited beneath one of thefe Cromlcb %. The great fimilarity of 
 the monuments throughout the North, evinces the famenels of 
 religion to have been fpread in every part, perhaps with fome 
 flight deviations. Many of thefe monuments are both Britijh 
 and Danijh; for we find them where the Danes never penetrated. 
 It mult not be forgotten, that at one end of the cairn in quef- 
 tion are feveral great Hones, fome extending beyond the cairn ; 
 and on one fide is a large erect ftone, perhaps an object of 
 worfhip. 
 
 Return near the more at the head of Brodic bay, and fee a vait 
 flratum of coral and fhells, the gift of the fea fome ages ago, 
 fome part being covered with peat. 
 
 In the afternoon leave Brodic caftle, crofs a hill, defcend by June 24. 
 
 the village of Kilbride, and reach the harbour of Lamlajb, where Lamlash 
 our veflfel lay at anchor in the fafeft port in the univerfe, a 
 port perfectly Virgilian : 
 
 * 213, Sec, f 105. 
 
 J Lwtbiana. 
 
 Hie 
 
 213 
 
 HARBOUR.
 
 214 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Hie infula portum 
 Efficit objettu laterum. 
 
 a beautiful femilunar bay forms one part : v/hile the lofty ifland 
 of Lamlajb extending before the mouth fee u res it from the eaft 
 winds : leaving- on each fide a fafe and eafy entrance. The whole 
 circumference is about nine miles; and the depth of the water 
 is fufficient for the largeft mips. This is the place of quarantine : 
 at this time three merchantmen belonging to Glafgow lay here for 
 that purpofe, each with the guard boat aftern. 
 
 In the bottom of the bay was a fine circular bafon or pier now 
 in ruins ; the work of the good Dutchefs of Hamilton. 
 Isib ofLamlash. Land on the ifland of Lamlq/b, a vaft mountain, in great part 
 covered with heath •, but has fufficient pafture and arable land to 
 feed a few milch cows, flieep and goats, and to raife a little corn 
 and a few potatoes. 
 
 In the year 1558, the Englijh fleet under the Earl of Sujfex, 
 after ravaging the coaft of Cantyre, at that time in pofleffion of 
 James Mac-connel, landed in this bay, and burned and deflroyed 
 all the neighboring country : proceeded afterwards to Cumray > 
 and treated it in the fame manner. 
 
 Buchanan gives this the Latin name of Molas and MolaJJa, from 
 
 its having been the retreat of St. Maol-jos : for the fame reafon 
 
 it is called the holy ifland, and Hellan Leneow *, or that of Saints, 
 
 and fometimes Ard- na-molas. St. Maol-jos* $ cave, the refidence of 
 
 that holy man, his well of mofl falutary water, a place for bathing, 
 
 his chair, and the ruins of his chapel are Ihewn to ftrangers ; but 
 
 the walk is far from agreeable, as the ifland is greatly infefted with 
 
 vipers. 
 
 * Fordun. lib. ii. c 10. 
 
 The
 
 HEBRIDES. 215 
 
 The Bean of the IJles fays, that on this ifle of Molass was 
 foundit by John Lord of the Isles ane Monaftry of Friars 
 which is decay it. But notwithftanding this, it contributed largely 
 to the fupport of others on the main-land. Thus Lamlaflo and 
 the lands round the bay ; and thofe from Corry to Loch-ranza, 
 were annexed to the abbey of Kil-whinnin. And thofe of Shi/kin, 
 Kilmore, Torelin, and Benans to that of Sandale or Saddel in Can- 
 tyre. I imagine that I muft have feen the fite of it from the top 
 of Cam baan : therefore take the liberty of mentioning it as hav- 
 ing been a convent of Cijiercians, founded by Reginaldus^ fon of 
 Somerled) lord of the ifles : the fame Somerkd who was (lain near 
 Renfrew in 11 64. Here was alfo a caftle belonging to the fuc- 
 cefibrs of that petty prince ; whole owner Angus lord of the ifles, 
 gave protection during his diftrefles to Robert Bruce. 
 
 Weighed anchor at half an hour pad one in the morning and June 25, 
 
 going through the fouth pafTage of the harbor, get into the 
 middle of the Firth. Have a magnificent view on all fides of 
 Arran and Lamlafh^ and the coafl of Cantyre on one fide ; and of 
 the coafts of Cunningham and Carrick on the other. In front lay the 
 hills of Galloway and the coafl of Ireland ; and the vail crao- of 
 Jilfa, appearing here like an inclined hay-cock, rofe in the midft 
 of the channel. In our courfe leave to the Weft the little and 
 low ifland of Plada, oppofite to, and as if rent from that of Arran 
 a circumftance the name from bladhan to break feems to import. 
 
 After a very tedious calm reach the crag of Ailfa, and anchor Crag of A-lsa, 
 on the N. E. within fifty yards of the fide in twelve fathom wa- 
 ter, gravelly bottom. On this fide is a fmall beach : all the reft 
 is a perpendicular rock for an amazing height, but from the 
 
 edges
 
 2i6 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 edges of the precipice, the mountain afllimes a pyramidal form: 
 the whole circumference of the bafe is two miles. On the Eaft 
 lide is a ftupendous and amazing aflemblage of precipitous co- 
 lumnar rocks of great height rifing in wild feries one above the 
 other : beneath thefe, amidft the ruins that had fallen from time 
 to time, are groves of elder trees, the only trees of the place ; 
 the doping iurface being almoft entirely covered with fern and 
 iliort grafs. The quadrupeds that inhabit this rock are goats 
 and rabbets : the birds that neftle in the precipices are numer- 
 ous as fwarms of bees ; and not unlike them in their flight to 
 and from the crag. On the verge of the precipice dwell the gan- 
 nets and the fhags. Beneath are guillemots, and the razor bills : 
 and under them the grey gulls and kittiwaks, helped by their cry 
 to fill the deafening chorus. The puffins made themfelves bur- 
 roughs above : the fea pies found a fcanty place for their eggs 
 near the bale. Some land birds made this their haunt : among 
 them ravens, hooded crows, pigeons, wheat ears and rock larks ; 
 and what is wonderful, throftles exerted the fame melody in this 
 icene of horror as they do in the groves of Hertford/hire. 
 
 Three reptiles appeared here very unexpectedly : the naked 
 black fnail, the common and the ftriped fhell fnail : not volunteer 
 inhabitants, but probably brought in the falads of fome vifitants 
 from the neighboring mores. 
 
 This rock is the property of the Earl of Caffils, who rents it 
 for 33 /. per ann. to people who come here to take the young 
 gannets for the table ; and the other birds for the fake of their 
 feathers. The laft are caught when the young birds are ready 
 for their flight. The fowler aicends the rocks with great hazard, 
 
 is
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 is provided with a long rod, furnifhed at the end with a fhort hair 
 line with a running noofe. This he flings round the neck of the 
 bird, hawls it up and repeats it till he takes ten or twelve dozen 
 in an evening *. 
 
 Land on the beach j and find the ruins of a chapel, and the vef- 
 tiges of places inhabited by fifhermen who refort here during the 
 feafon for the capture of cod, which abound here from January 
 to April, on the great bank, which begins a little fouth of Arran y 
 pafles this rock, and extends three leagues beyond. The fifh. 
 are taken with long lines, very little different from thofe defcribed 
 in the third vol. of the Br. Zoology >, p. 193 ; a repetition is unnecef- 
 iary : the fifh are dried and then faked ; but there are feldom fuf- 
 ficient caught for foreign exportation. 
 
 With much difficulty afcend to the caftle, a fquare tower of 
 three ftories, each vaulted, placed pretty high on this only ac- 
 ceffible part of the rock. The path is narrow, over a vaft Hope, 
 fo ambiguous that it wants but little of a true precipice : the 
 walk is horrible, for the depth is alarming. It would have been 
 thought that nothing but an eagle would have fixed his habita- 
 tion here ; and probably it was fome chieftain not lefs an animal 
 of rapine. The only mark of civilization I faw in the caftle was 
 an oven ; a conveniency which many parts of North Britain 
 are yet ftrangers to. 
 
 In 1597 one Barclay of Lady land undertook the romantic defign 
 of pofTefiing himfelf of this rock ; and of fortifying it for the 
 fervice of the Spaniards. He arrived there with a few affiftants, 
 
 * I cannot learn where thefe feathers are ufed. 
 
 F f as
 
 2I 3 A V O Y A G E to the 
 
 as he imagined, undifcovered ; but one day walking alone on the 
 beach, he unexpectedly encountred Mr. John Knox who was lent 
 to apprehend him: and the moment he law the unfriendly party,, 
 in delpair, rufhed into the lea, and put an end to his exiftence *. 
 
 Made a hearty dinner under the Ihade of the caftlej and even 
 at that height procured fine water from a fpring within a hundred 
 yards of the place. The view of the bay of Girvan, in Carried, 
 within nine miles, and that of Campbeltown, about twenty-two, 
 bounded each fide of the Firth. 
 
 The weather was fo hot that we did not afcend to the fummit; 
 which is faid to be broad,, and to have had on it a fmall chapel, 
 defio-ned (as is frequent on the promontories of foreign fhores) 
 for the devout feaman to offer up his prayer, of fupplication for 
 a fafe voyage, or, of gratitude for a fafe return. 
 
 In the evening return on board, and fleer towards Campbeltown, 
 but make very little way, by reafon of the flillnefs of the night. 
 Tunb 26. In the morning find ourfelves within nine miles of the town ^ 
 
 Sanda isle. having to the South (near the end. of Cantyre) Sanda, or Avoyn, 
 or ifland of harbours f •, fo called from its being the Ration of the 
 Danijh fleets, while that nation pofTefled ■ the Hebrides ; a high 
 ifland, about two miles long, inhabited by four families. In For" 
 dun\ time, here was the chapel of St. Annian, and a fanctuary for 
 the refuge of criminals J. Near it is Sheep-ijland •, and a mile 
 to the Eaft lies Feterfov's rock, dreaded by mariners. The Mull, 
 
 * Spoti/hvooJ's Hiji. of Scot. p. 446. and 447. 
 
 f Buchanan, lib. I. 35. The Dean of the ifles calls it Avoyn, fra the armies of: 
 Denmark cailit in their leid, Havia. . 
 \ Fordun, lib. ii. c. 10, . 
 
 or:
 
 HEBRIDES. 2f 9 
 
 or extremity of Cantyre y lies at a fmall diftance beyond this 
 groupe. 
 
 Direct Mr. Thompfon to carry the veffel round the Mull, and 
 to wait under the ifle of Gigha. Take the boat, and make for 
 Campbeltown : after feven miles reach the mouth of the harbour, 
 crofled by a fmall and high ifland, with a deep but narrow paf- 
 fage on one fide : on the other, connected to the land by a beach, 
 dry at the ebb of the tides, and fo low, that ftrange mips, mil- 
 taking the entrance, fometimes run on more. The harbour wi- 
 dens to a very confiderable extent, is two miles in length, and of 
 a confiderable depth of water, even clofe to the town, which lies 
 at the bottom. 
 
 Campbeltown is now a very confiderable place, havino- rifen Campbbltowk, 
 from a petty fifhing town to its prefent flourifhing ftate in lefs 
 than thirty years. About the year 1744 it had only two or three 
 fmall veffels belonging to the port : at prefent there are feventy- 
 eight fail, from twenty to eighty tuns burthen, all built for, and 
 employed in, the herring fifhery ; and about eight hundred fai- 
 lors are employed to man them. This town in fact was created 
 by the fifhery ; for it was appointed the place of rendezvous for 
 the buffes ; two hundred and fixty have been feen in the har- 
 bour at once ; but their number declines fince the ill-payment 
 of the bounty. I do not know the gradual increafe of the in- 
 habitants here ; but it is computed that there are feven thoufand 
 in the town and parifh. Two miniflers officiate-, befides ano- 
 ther for the church of the feceders, called the Relief \\oute. This 
 is a remarkable neat building, and quite fliames that of the efta- 
 blifhed church: was raifed by a voluntary fubfcription of 2300/. 
 
 F f 2 collected
 
 220 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 collected chiefly among the poflerity of opprefTed natives of the 
 lowlands, encouraged to fettle here (in times of perfecution) by 
 the Argyle family. Thefe ftill keep themfelves diftincl from the 
 old inhabitants, retain the zeal of their ancestors, are obftinately 
 averfe to patronage, but are efteemed the moft induftrious peo- 
 ple in the country. 
 
 The antient name of this place was Cean-loch-chille-Ciarain, or 
 the end of the loch of St. Kerran, a faint of the neighborhood. The 
 country, of which it is the capital, is 
 
 C A N T Y R E, 
 
 the moft Southern part of Argylejhire , derived from Ceann, a 
 head and Tire of the land : was the country of the Epidii of the 
 Romans ; and the extremity, the Epidii promontorium, now the 
 Mull of Cantyre, noted for the violence of the adverfe tides,, com- 
 pared to the force of a mill-race, from whence the modern name. 
 Magnus the barefooted made a conqueft of it, and added it to 
 the Hebrides, making an ifland of it by the ratio ultima regum. 
 Torfceus fays, that the antient name was Saltiria, or Satiria, perhaps 
 Norwegian *. 
 
 This peninfula, from the Tarbat to the Mull, is above forty 
 miles long, and from five to twelve miles broad : is hilly, but, 
 comparative to other parts, cannot be called mountanous : is 
 open, and in general naked \ but near Campbeltown are fome thriv- 
 ing plantations. The country is at prefent a mixture of heath 
 and arable land : the land is good, capable of bearing wheat, but 
 
 * 'Torfceusy 73. 
 
 little
 
 HEBRIDES. 221 
 
 fittle is raifed for want of mills to grind it : either the inhabitants Produce. 
 
 buy their flower from England, or fend the grain they have to be 
 ground in the mire of Air. Much bear is fown here, great quan- 
 tities of potatoes raifed, and near 800 /. worth annually exported. 
 Numbers of black cattle are reared, but chiefly killed at home, 
 and falted for the ufe of the buffes at Campbeltown. Much but- 
 ter and cheefe is made -, the laft large and bad. There are, be- 
 fides, fheep and goats ; the laft killed for Winter provifion. 
 
 Notwithstanding the quantity of bear raifed, there is often a 
 fort of dearth; the inhabitants being mad enough to convert their 
 bread into poifon, diftilling annually fix thoufand bolls of grain 
 into whifky. This feems a modem liquor, for in old times the Whisky. 
 
 diftillation was from thyme, mint, anile *, and other fragrant 
 herbs ; and ale was much in ufe with them. The former had the 
 fame name with the ufquebaugh, or water of life ~, but, by Boe- 
 thius's account, it was taken with moderation. 
 
 The Duke of Argyle, the principal proprietor of this country, 
 takes great pains in difcouraging the pernicious practice ; and 
 obliges all his tenants to enter into articles, to forfeit five pounds 
 and the ftill, in cafe they are detected in making this liqueur tfenfer - 9 
 but the trade is fo profitable that many perfift in it, to the great 
 neglect of manufactures. Before this buflnefs got ground, the 
 women were accuftomed to fpin a great deal of yarn (for much 
 flax is raifed in thefe parts) but at prefent they employ themfelves 
 in diftilling, while their hufbands are in the field. 
 
 Rural ceconomy is but at a low ebb here: his grace does all in Husbandry. 
 
 * Baetbius de moribus Scot. 1 1. 
 
 his
 
 ?.?.i A VOYAGE to t h e 
 
 his power to promote tha: moil ufeful of arts, by giving a certain 
 number t>f bolls of burnt lime to thofe who can fhew the largefl 
 and bell fallow ; and allowing ten per cent, out of the rents to 
 fuch farmers, who lay out any money in folid improvements ; for 
 example, in inclofing, and the like. The duke alfo fhews much 
 humanity in another inftance, by permitting his tenants, in the 
 places of his eftates where flags inhabit, to deftroy them with im- 
 punity ; refigning that part of the antient -chieftains magnificence, 
 rather than beads of chace fhould wade the bread of the poor. 
 
 Cantyre was granted to the houfe of Argyle after a fuppreflion of 
 a rebellion of the Mac-donalds of the ifles (and I fuppofe of this 
 peninfula) in the beginning of the laft century *, and the grant 
 was afterwards ratified by parlement f. The antient inhabitants 
 were the Mac-donalds, Mac-eachrans, Mac-kays, and Mac-mat bs. 
 
 June 27. Take a ride along the Weft fide of the bay. See, in Kilkerran 
 
 Kilkerran church-yard, feveral tombs of artificers, with the inftruments of 
 
 Castle. their trades engraven: amongfl others appear a goofe, and fhears, 
 
 to denote that a taylor lay beneath. A little further, on the more, 
 are the ruins of Kilkerran caftle, built by James V. when he vi- 
 fited this place in order to quell a rebellion : he was obliged to 
 fly to it for protection, and, as is fait], to abandon it to the 
 fury of the infurgents, who took the fortrefs, and hung his go- 
 vernor. 
 
 Caves. Turn to the South, and vifit fome caves in the rocks that face 
 
 the Firth : thefe are very magnificent, and very various j the tops 
 are lofty, and refemble gothic arches ; one has on all fides a range 
 
 * Br, Biography, II, 1 1 4 1 . f Crawford' % Peerage, 13. 
 
 Of
 
 II E B R I D E S. 
 
 223 
 
 of "natural feats •, another is in r orm of a crofs, with three fine got bit 
 porticos, for entrances •, this had been the refidence of St. Kerran; 
 had formerly a wall at the entrance, a fecond about the middle, and 
 a third far up, forming different apartments. On the floor is the 
 capital of a crofs, and a round bafon, cut out of the rock, full of 
 fine water, the beverage of the faint in old times, and of failors in 
 the prefent, who often land to drefs their victuals beneath this ihel- 
 ter. An antient pair, upwards of feventy years of age, once made 
 this their habitation for a considerable time. 
 
 Return, view the crofs, in the middle of the town : am oft beau- The Cross. 
 tiful pillar, richly ornamented with foliage, and with this infcription 
 on one fide: H<ea eft : crux : Domini: Yvari : M : H: Eachyr- 
 na : quondam: Reel oris : de Kyrecan : et : Domini : Andre : nati : 
 ejus': Recloris de Kil: coman: qui banc cruce fieri facieb at. Mr. Gor- 
 don (by report only) mentions this as a Danijh obelifk* but does not 
 venture the defcription, as he had not opportunity of feeing it : his 
 informant faid, that it was brought from Jona, which concurs with. 
 the tradition of this place. 
 
 At night am admitted freeman of Campbeltown^ and, according 
 to the cuftom of the place, confult the oracle of the Bottle about 
 my future voyage, aftifted by a numerous company of brother 
 burgefles. 
 
 Leave Campbeltown with a full fenfe of all the civilities received Junb 28. 
 there. Ride over a plain about five miles wide. See on the road 
 fide a great wheel, deiigned for the raifmg water from the neigh- 
 boring collieries. The coal is eight feet thick, dips one yard in 
 iive, and points N. E. by N. W. ■> is fold on the bank for four fhil- 
 
 lings
 
 224 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 lings per tun ; but fufficient is not yet raifcd for the ufe of the 
 
 country. 
 
 This plain is fruitful, pretty much inclofed, and the hedges 
 
 grow well •, a great encouragement to further experiments : the 
 
 improved land is rented here from fifteen to twenty iliillings an 
 
 acre. 
 
 Obferve on the road fide the ruins of the chapel of Cill-chaova'uu 
 
 or Kil-chyvain : within are fome old grave- ftones, engraven with 
 
 figures of a two-handed fword, and of dogs chafing deer. 
 
 Ride three miles along the fands of Machraf-Shanais bay, noted 
 for the tremendous fize and roaring of its waves in ftormy feafons ; 
 and for the lofs of many mips, which by realbn of the lownefs of the 
 land are deceived into deftruction. 
 
 Dine at a tolerable houfe at Bar : vifit the great cave of Bealach- 
 cC-chaochain^ near the fhore. Embark in a rotten, leaky boat, and 
 pafling through fix miles of rippling fea, find late at night our velTel 
 lafe at anchor, under the Eaft fide of the ifle of Gigha, in the little 
 harbour of Caolas-gioglam^ protected by Gigha^ and the little ifle of 
 Cara on the Weft and South •, and by a chain of vaft rocks to the 
 Eaft : numbers appear juft peeping above water in feveral parts ; 
 and others that run out far from the Cantyre fhore correfpond with 
 thefe fo exactly, as to make it probable that they once formed the 
 
 fame bed. 
 Juke 29. L an d on 
 
 G I G H a : 
 
 An ifland about fix miles long, and one broad ; the moft eaftern 
 
 of
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 of the HtBRiDEs : this, with Cara, farms a parifh in the county of 
 Bute, in the prefbytery of Can tyre. Has in it no high hills, and is a 
 mixture of rock, pafture, and arable land. Produces barley, bear, 
 oats, flax, and potatoes. Malt is made here and exported ; and 
 about a hundred and fifty bolls of bear ; inibmuch that fometimes 
 the natives themfelves feel the want of it, and fuffer by a fcarcity 
 arifing from their own avarice. They alfo rear more cattle than they 
 can maintain, and annually lofe numbers for want of fodder. 
 
 The ifland is divided into thirty marklands, each of which ought 
 to maintain fourteen cows and four horfes ; befides producing a 
 certain quantity of corn. The bear yields five, the oats three fold. 
 Each markland is commonly occupied by one farmer, who has 
 feveral married fervants under him, who live in feparate cottages, 
 and are allowed to keep a few cattle and fheep. The wages are from 
 three to four pounds a year to the men fervants ; from twenty to 
 thirty millings to the women. The young men employ themfelves 
 in the fummer in the herring fifliery -, but during winter give them- 
 felves up entirely to an inactive life. 
 
 This ifland contains about five hundred inhabitants : and the 
 revenue is about fix hundred a year ; moll of it belonging to Mr. 
 Macneile of TayniJJj. In old times the laird was ftyled Thane of 
 Gigha : his family has been long owner of thefe little territories, this 
 fea-girt reign -, but was difpoflefied of it in 1549, by the * Clan-Don- 
 ald; and recovered it again-, but hiftory omits the time of re- 
 iteration. Difcontent has even reached this fmall ifland ; and two 
 families have migrated to America. 
 
 • Dean of the Ifles, 7* 
 
 G g Breakfaft 
 
 225
 
 lz 6 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Breakfaft with the minifter, who may truly be faid to be wedded 
 to his flock. The ocean here forbids all wandering, even if inclina- 
 tion excited : and the equal lot of the Scotch clergy is a ftill ftronger 
 check to every afpiring thought : this binds them to their people ; 
 and invigorates every duty towards thofe to whom they confider 
 themfelves connected for life ; this equal lot may perhaps blunt the 
 ambition after fome of the more fpecious accomplifhments ; but 
 makes more than amends by fharpening the attention to thofe con- 
 cerns which end not with this Being. 
 
 Vifit the few wonders of the ifle : the firft is a little well of a moft 
 miraculous quality, for in old times, if ever the chieftain lay here 
 wind-bound, he had nothing more to do than caufe the well to be 
 cleared, and inftantly a favorable gale arofe. But miracles are now 
 ceafed. 
 
 Examine the ruins of a church, and find fome tombs with 
 two-handed fwords, the Claidb-da-laimh of the hero depofned 
 beneath. 
 Pillars and A little farther, at Kil-chattan, is a great rude column, fixteen feet 
 
 high, four broad, and eight inches thick, and near it, a cairn. On a 
 line with this, at Cnoc-cC- chard, is another, and ftill higher in the 
 fame direction, at Cnoc-a'crois, is a crofs and three cairns ; probably 
 the crofs, after the introduction of chriftianity, was formed out of a 
 pagan monument fimilar to the two former. 
 
 In a bottom a little eaft from thefe, is a large artificial mount of a 
 fquare form, growing lefs and lefs towards the top, which is flat, and 
 has the veftige of a breaft wall around. The mount Romclborg in 
 Sweden, engraven by M. Dattherg, No. .325, is fomewhat fimilar : 
 
 this 
 
 CAIRNS.
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 2*7 
 
 this probably was the work of the Danes, the neighboring 
 nation. 
 
 Return to the fhore : obferve a vaft bed of moft pure and fine Fine sanb, 
 fand, ufeful in the glafs manufacture : the fame fpecies but defiled 
 with a mixture of fea fand, appears again on the oppofite coaft of 
 Cantyre. 
 
 The birds that appear here at prefent are the common gull, com- 
 mon fandpiper, and fea pie. The great arftic diver, of the Britijh Arctic biver, 
 Zoology, fometimes vifits thefe feas : and is ftyled in the Erfe, Mur- 
 bhuachaille, or the herd/man of the ocean ; becaufe, as is pretended, it 
 never leaves that element, never flies, and hatches the young beneath 
 
 its wing. 
 
 The weather extremely fine; but fo calm that Mr. Thompfon is 
 obliged to tow the veffel out of this little harbour, which is of un- 
 equal depths, but unfit for veffels that draw more than fourteen feet 
 water. Pals under Cava, an ifie one mile long, divided by a narrow 
 channel, S. of Gigha, is inhabited by one family, and had once a 
 chapel. At the South end it rifes into a hill exactly formed like a 
 loaf of bread. The property of this little place is in Mr. Macdonald 
 of Largis. 
 
 Attempt to (leer for the ifland of Hay, but in vain. Am enter- 
 tained with the variety and greatnefs of the views that bound the 
 channel, the great found of Jura ; to the Eaft the mountains of 
 Arran over-top the far-extending fhores of Cantyre-, to the Weft lies 
 Jura, mountanous and rugged ; four hills, naked and diftind, afpire 
 above the reft, two of them known to the feamen by the name of the 
 Paps, ufeful in navigation : far to the North, juft appears a chain of 
 fmall iiles ; and to the South, the ifland of Rathry, the fuppofed 
 
 G g 2 Ricnea,
 
 222 AVOYAGEtothe 
 
 Ricnea, or Ricina of Pliny *, on the eoaft of Ireland, which ftretches 
 beyond far to the Weft. 
 
 A brief HISTORY of the 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 The leifure of a calm gave ample time for reflection on the hiftory 
 and greater events of the iflands now in view, and of the others, the 
 objects of the voyage. In juftice to that able and learned writer the 
 Rev. Dr. John Macpherfon, late minifter of Slate in Skie 9 let me ac- 
 knowlege the aftiftance I receive from his ingenious efTay on this 
 very fubject : for his labors greatly facilitate my attempt j not un- 
 dertaken without confulting the authors he refers to ; and adding 
 numbers of remarks overfeen by him, and giving a confiderable 
 continuation of the hiftory. It would be an oftentatious tafk to 
 open a new quarry, when fuch heaps of fine materials lie ready to my 
 hand. 
 
 All the accounts left us by the Greek and Roman writers are en- 
 veloped with obfeurity, at all times brief, even in their defcrip- 
 tions of places they had eafieft accefs to, and might have defcribed 
 with the moft fatisfactory precifion ; but in remote places their re^ 
 lations furnifh little, more than hints, the food for conjecture to the 
 vifionary antiquary. 
 Pytheas, in That Pytheas, a traveller mentioned by Strabo, had vifited Great- 
 
 Strabo. Britain, I would wifh to make only apocryphal: he aflerts, that he 
 
 vifited the remoter parts ; and that he had alfo feen Thule, the land 
 
 *■ lib. iv. Ct 1 6i 
 
 of
 
 HEBRIDES. 22^ 
 
 of romance amongft the anticnts ; which ail might pretend to have 
 feen ; but every voyager, to fwell his fame, made the ifland he faw 
 laft, the Ultima Thule of his travels. If Pytheas had reached thefe 
 parts he might have obierved, floating in the feas, multitudes of gelati- 
 nous animals, the meduf<e oiLin::aus, and out of thefe have formed his 
 fable : he made his Thule a compofttion of neither earth, fea, nor air ; 
 but like a compofttion of them all; then, catching his fimily from what 
 floated before him, compares it to the lungs * of the fea, the Arifiotelian 
 idea of thefe bodies j and from him adopted by naturalifts, fuccefTors 
 to that great philofopher. Strabo very juftly explodes thefe abfurd 
 tales, yet allows him merit in defcribing the climate of the places he 
 had feen. As a farther proof of his having vifited the Hebrides, he 
 mentions their unfriendly iky, that prohibits the growth of the 
 finer fruits j and that the natives are obliged to carry their corn 
 undei inciter, to beat the grain out, lead it mould be fpoiled 
 by the defect of the fun, and violence of the rains -f-. This 
 is the probable part of his narrative : but when the time that the 
 great geographer wrote is confidered •> at a period that thefe iflands 
 had been neglected for a very long fpace by the Romans -, and when 
 the difficulties of getting among a fierce and unfriendly nation muft 
 be almoft infuperable, doubts innumerable, refpecting the veracity 
 of this relater, muft arife : all that can be admitted in favor of him 
 is, that he was a great traveller, that he might have either vifited 
 Britain, with fome of the nations commercing, with our ifle, or have 
 received from them accounts, which he afterwards drefTed out mixed 
 
 * Hift. Ang. lib. xv. Strabo, lib. ii. p. 71. 
 
 fi Strabo, lib. iv. 139. This is alfo mentioned by Diodorus Siculus. 
 
 with
 
 320 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 with the ornaments of fable. A traffic mutt have been carried on 
 with the very Northern inhabitants of our iflands in the time of Py- 
 theas, for one of the articles of commerce, mentioned by Strabo, the 
 ivory bits, were made either of the teeth of the Walrus, or of a fpecies 
 of whale native of the Northern feas. 
 Mela. The geographer Mela, who flourifhed in the reign of Claudius, is 
 
 the next who takes notice of our lefler iflands. He mentions the 
 Orcades as confining of thirty •, the Mmoda of feven. The Romans 
 had then made a conqueft of the former, and might have ken the 
 latter ; but from the words of the hiftorian, it is probable that the 
 Shetland iflands were thofe intended j for he informs us, that the 
 Mmoda were carried out over againft Germany : the fite of the He- 
 brides will not admit of this defcription, which agrees very well with 
 the others-, for the antients extended their Germany, and its imaginary 
 iflands, to the extreme North. 
 p LlNy< Pliny the elder is the next that mentions thefe remote places. 
 
 He lived later than the preceding writers, and of courfe his in- 
 formation is fuller : by means of intervening difcoveries, he has 
 added ten more to the number of the Orcades : is the firft writer 
 that mentions the Habudes, the iflands in queftion ; and joins in the 
 fame line the JEmodte, or, as it is in the beft editions more properly 
 written, the Acmoda *, or extreme pint of the Roman expeditions 
 to the North -, as the Shetland ifles in the highefl probability 
 were. Pliny and Mela agree in the number of the JEmoda, or 
 Acmodx -, the former makes that of the Habudes thirty ; an ac- 
 count extremely near the truth, deducting the little ifles, or rather 
 
 • Lib. iv. c. 1 6, 
 
 rocks^
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 rocks, that furrounded moft of the greater, and many of them fo in- 
 ciiftincT: as fcarcely to be remarked, except on an actual furvey. 
 
 Solinus fucceeds Pliny : if he, as is fuppofed, was cotemporary Solinus. 
 with Agricola, he has made very ill ufe of the light he might 
 have received from the expeditions of that great general, whofe 
 officers might have furnifhed the hiftorian with better materials 
 than thofe he has communicated. He has reduced the number 
 of the Habudes, to five : he tells us, that c the inhabitants were 
 
 * unacquainted with corn ; that they lived only on fifh and milk \ 
 
 * that they had one king, as the iflands were only feparated from 
 ' each other by narrow ftraits ; that their prince was bound by 
 ' certain rules of government, to do juftice : and was prevented 
 ' by poverty from deviating from the true courfe ; being fup- 
 
 * ported by the public, and allowed nothing that he could call 
 
 * his own : not even a wife; but then he was allowed free choice, 
 c by turns one out of every diftri<?t of any female that caught 
 
 * his affection ; which deprived him of all ambition about a fuc- 
 ! ceffor *.' 
 
 By the number of thefe iflands, and by the minute attention 
 given by the hiftorian to the circumftance of their being fepara- 
 ted from each other by very narrow ftraits, I fhould imagine, 
 that which is now called the Long ijland and includes Lewis, 
 North Uift, Benbecula, South Uift, and Barra, to have been the 
 five Haibudes of Solinus, for the other great iflands fuch as Skie 9 
 &c. are too remote from each other to form the preceding very 
 characteriftic defcription of that chain of iflands. Thefe might 
 
 * Pcljbiftor, c. 35. 
 
 naturally 
 
 231
 
 *3* 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 .naturally fall under the rule of our petty prince -, almoft the only 
 probable part of Solinus's narrative. 
 Ptolkmt, After a long interval appears Ptolemy, the Egyptian geographer : 
 
 he alio enumerates five Ebud<c ; and has given each a name : the 
 weftern Ebuda, the eaflern, Ricina, Maleos, Epidium. Camden 
 conjectures them to be the modern Skie, Lewis, Rathry or Racline, 
 Mull, and Hay : and I will not controvert his opinion. 
 
 The Roman hiftorians give very little light into the geography 
 of thefe parts. 'Tacitus, from whom moil might have been ex- 
 pected, is quite filent about the names of places •, notwithftand- 
 ing he informs us, that a fleet by command of Agricola perform- 
 ed the circumnavigation of Britain. Ail that he takes notice of 
 is the difcovery and the conqi/.eft of the Orknies : It fhould fcem 
 that with the biographers of an ambitious nation, nothing feemed 
 v/orthy of notice, but what they could dignify with the glory of 
 victory. 
 
 It is very difficult to aflign a reafon for the change of name 
 from Ebud<£ to Hebrides ; the laft is modern : and feems as the 
 annotator on Doctor Mac-pherfon fuppofes, to have arifen from the 
 error of a tranferiber, who changed the u into ri. 
 
 From all that has been collected from the antients, it appears, 
 that they were acquainted with little more of the Hebrides than 
 the bare names : it is probable that the Romans, either from con- 
 tempt of fuch barren fpots, from the dangers of feas, the violence 
 of the tides, and horrors of the narrow founds in the inexperi- 
 enced ages of navigation, never attempted their conqueft, or faw 
 more of them, than what they had in fight, during the few cir- 
 
 cum-
 
 HEBRIDES, 
 
 cumnavigations of Great Britain? which were expeditions, more, 
 of oftentation than of utility. 
 
 The inhabitants had probably for fome ages their own gover- 
 nors : one little king to each ifland, or to each groupe as necef- 
 fity required. It is reafonable to fuppofe, that their government 
 was as much divided as that of Great Britain, which it is well 
 known, was under the direction of numbers of petty princes be- 
 fore it was reduced under the power of the Romans. 
 
 No account is given in hiftory of the time thefe iflands were 
 annexed to the government of Scotland. If we may credit our 
 Saxon hiiiorians, they appear to have been early under the domi- 
 nion of the PiMs \ for Bede and Adamnanus inform us, that foon 
 after the arrival of St. Columba in their country, Brudeus, a picli/b 
 monarch made the faint a prefent of the celebrated ifland of 
 jfona *. 
 
 But neither the holy men of this ifland, nor the natives of the 
 reft of the Hebrides, enjoyed a permanent repofe after this event. 
 
 The fir ft invafion of the Banes does not feem to "be eafily afcer- 
 tained : it appears that they ravaged Ireland, and the ifle of Rath- 
 ■ry, as early as the year 735. In the following century their ex- 
 peditions became more frequent : Harold Harfager, or the light- Harold 
 haired, purfued in 875, feveral petty princes, whom he had ex- 
 pelled out of Norway; who had taken refuge in the Hebrides? 
 and molefted his dominions by perpetual defcents from thofe 
 iflands. He feems to have made a rapid conqueft : he gained as 
 many victories as he fought battles ; he put to death the chief 
 
 * Beds, lib. iii. c, 4. Adamnanus <vit. Columlx. lib. ii. c. 10, & 28. 
 
 H h of 
 
 m 
 
 Harfager,
 
 234 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 of the pyrates, and made * an indifcriminate (laughter of the:r 
 followers. Soon after his return, the iflanders repoffeffed their 
 Ketil. antient feats : and in order to reprefs their infults, he fent Ketil 
 
 the fiat-nofed, with a fleet and fome forces for that purpofe. He 
 foon reduced them to terms ; but made his victories fubfervi- 
 ent to his own ambition •, he made alliances with the Reguli he had 
 fubdued •, he formed intermarriages, and confirmed to them their 
 old dominions. This effected, he fent back the fleet to Harold ; 
 openly declared himfelf independent, made himfelf prince of the 
 Hebrides -, and caufed them to acknowlege him as fuch, by the 
 payment of tribute, and the badges of vaffalage +. Ketil re- 
 mained during life, mailer of the iflands, and his fubjects appear 
 to have been a warlike fet of freebooters, ready to join with any 
 adventurers. Thus when Eric, fon cf Harold Harfager, after be- 
 ino- driven out of his own country, made an invafion of England, 
 he put with his fleet into the Hebrides, received a large reinforce- 
 ment of people, fired with the hopes of prey, and then pre*, 
 ceeded on his plan of rapine J. After the death of Ketil, a king- 
 dom was in after-times compofed out of them, which from the 
 refidence of the little monarch in the ifle of Man was ftyled that 
 of Man || . The iflands became tributary to that of Norway § 
 for a considerable time, and princes were fent from thence ** to 
 govern : but at length they again fhook off the yoke. Whether 
 the little potentates ruled independent, or whether they put them- 
 felves under the protection of the Scottijh monarchs, does not clear- 
 
 * Torfaus, 10. t Torfaus, 14. J Tor/aus, 23. 
 
 || Torfaut, 29. yCamdettt 1444. ** #**»
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 ly appear : but it is reafonable to fuppofe the laft, as Donald-bane 
 is accufed of making the Hebrides the price of the afliftance given 
 him by the Norwegians againft his own fubjects. Notwithftanding 
 they might occafionally feek the protection of Scotland, yet they 
 never were without princes of their own. From the chronicles of 
 the kings of Man * we learn, that they had a fucceffion. 
 
 In 1089 is an evident proof of the independency of the iflan- 
 ders on Norway ; for, on the death of Lagman, one of their mo- 
 narchs, they fent a deputation to CfBrian, King of Ireland, to 
 requeft a regent of royal blood to govern them during the mino- 
 rity of their young prince. They probably might in turn com- 
 pliment in fome other refpects their Scottijb neighbors : the iflan- 
 ders mud have given them fome pretence to fovereignty, for, 
 
 In 1093, Donald-bane, King of Scotland, calls in the afliftance 
 of Magnus the barefooted, King of Norway, and bribes him with 
 a promife of all the iflands f : Magnus accepts the terms, but at 
 the fame time boafts, that he does come to invade the territo- 
 ries of others, but only to refume the antient rights of Norway. 
 His conquefts are rapid and complete, for, befides the iflands, by 
 an ingenious fraud J he adds Cantyre to his dominions. 
 
 The Hebrides continued governed by a prince dependent on 
 Norway, a fpecies of vice-roy appointed by that court •, and who 
 paid, on affuming the dignity, ten marks of gold, and never 
 made any other pecuniary acknowlegement during life : but if 
 another vice-roy was appointed, the fame fum was exacted from 
 
 * In Camden, -J- Buchanan, lib. vii. c. 23. % Tor/aus, 73. 
 
 H h 2 him,' 
 
 235
 
 23 5 AVOYAGEtothe 
 
 him *• Thefe vice-roys were fometimes Norwegians, fomerimes 
 natives of the ifles. In 1097 we find, that Magnus \ deputes a 
 nobleman, of the name of Ingemund : in after-times we learn, that 
 natives were appointed to that high office. Yet they feem at times 
 to have fhaken off their independency, and to have alTumed the 
 title of King. Thus in 1206 we find, King John gives to his 
 brother monarch Reginald king of the ifles, a fate conduct; and in 
 fix years after, that Reginald fwears fidelity to our monarch, and 
 becomes his liege-man. It is probable they fuited their allegiance 
 to their conveniency; acknowleging the fuperiority of England, 
 Scotland, or Norway according to the neceffity of the times. Thus 
 were the Hebrides governed, from the conqueft, by Magnus, till the 
 year 1263, when Acho, or Haquin, King of Norway, by an unfortu- 
 nate invalion of Scotland, terminating in his defeat at Largs, fo weak- 
 ened the powers of his kingdom, that his fucceffor,. Magnus IV. 
 was content in 1266 to make a cefllon of the iflands to Alexander 
 the Hid ; but not without ftipulating for the payment of a large 
 fum, and of a tribute of a hundred marks for ever, which bore 
 the name of the annual of Norway. Ample provifion was alfo made 
 by Magnus in the fame treaty, for the fecurity of the rights and pro- 
 perties of his Norwegian fubjects, who chofe to continue in the ifles j. 
 where many of their pofterity remain to this day. 
 
 Notwithftanding this revolution, Scotland feems to have received 
 no real acquifition of ftrength : the iflands flill remained governed 
 by powerful chieftains, the defcendents of Somerled, Thane of 
 Heregaidel, or Argyle, who, marrying the daughter of Olave y . 
 
 * Hiji. Normannorum, p. iooo. \ Cbren. man. 
 
 % Rymer s fadera I. 140. 159. 
 
 King;
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 King of Man, left a divided dominion to his fons Dugal and Re- 
 ginald: from the fir ft were defcended the Mac-dougals of horn: 
 from the laft the powerful eJUn of the Mac-donalds. The lord- 
 fhip of Argyle with Mull, and the iflands north of it fell to the 
 fhare of the firft ; Hay, Cantyre, and the fouthern ifles were the 
 portion of the laft: a divilion that formed the diftinction of the 
 Sudereys and Nordereys, which will be farther noticed in the ac- 
 count of Jena. 
 
 Thefe chieftains were the fcourges of the kingdom; they are 
 known in hiftory but as the devaftations of a temped : for their 
 paths were marked with the mod barbarous defolation. Encou- 
 raged by their diftance from the feat of royalty ; and the turbu- 
 lence of the times, which gave their monarchs full employ, they 
 exercifed a regal power, and> often affumed the title ; but are more 
 generally known in hiftory by the ftyle of the Lord of the ifles, or 
 the Earls of i!cfs; and fometimes by that of the great Mac-donalds ■ 
 
 Historians are filent about their proceedings, from the retreat 
 of the Danes, in 1263, till that of 1335, when John, lord of the 
 ifles, withdrew his allegiance *. In the beginning of the next 
 century his fucceilbrs were fo independent, that Henry IV. -f fent 
 two embafTadors-in the years 1405, and 1408 to form an alliance 
 with the brothers, Donald and John : this encouraged them to 
 commit frefh hoftilities againft their natural prince. Donald, under 
 pretence of a clame to the earldom of Rofs, invaded and made a 
 conqueft of that county -, but penetrating as far as the fhire of 
 Aberdeen, after a fierce but undecifive battle with the royal party., 
 
 237 
 
 * Buchanan, lib, ix. c. 22. f TLymevi'sfadera viii. 418. 527. 
 
 thought
 
 23S A VOYAGE to the 
 
 thought proper to retire, and in a little time to fwear allegiance to 
 his monarch *, James I. But he was permitted to retain the county 
 of Rofs, and affume the title of earl. His fucceffor, Alexander, 
 at the head of ten thoufand men, attacked and burnt Invernefs : 
 at leno-th, terrified with the preparations made againft him, fell 
 at the royal feet, and obtained pardon as to life, but was com- 
 mitted to ftrict confinement. 
 
 His kinfman and deputy, Donald Balloch, refenting the im- 
 prifonment of his chieftain, excited " another rebellion, and de- 
 ftroyed the country with fire and fword : but on his flight was 
 taken and put to death by an IrifJo chieftain, with whom he fought 
 protection. 
 
 Thefe barbarous inroads were very frequent with a fet of ban* 
 ditti, who had no other motive in war but the infamous induce- 
 ment of plunder. In p. 175 we fee their cruel invafion of the 
 ihire of Lenox, and the horrible maffacre in confequence. 
 
 In the reign of James II. in the year 1461, Donald another 
 petty tyrant, an Earl of Rofs, and lord of the ifles, renewed the 
 pretence of independency ; furprized the caftle of Invernefs, 
 forced his way as far as Athol, obliged the earl and countefs, with 
 the principal inhabitants, to feek refuge in the church of St. 
 Bridget, in hopes of finding fecurity from his cruelty by the fanc- 
 tity of the place ; but the barbarian and his followers fet fire to 
 the church, put the ecclefiaftics to the fword, and, with a great 
 booty, carried the earl and countefs priibners to his caftle of Claig y 
 
 • Boetb. lib. xvi. 3421 
 
 in
 
 HEBRIDES, 
 
 in the ifland of Hay*. In a fecond expedition, immediately fol- 
 lowing the firfl, he fuffered the penalty of his impiety : a tempeft 
 overtook him, and overwhelmed moil of his affociates -, and he, 
 efcaping to Invernefs, periflied by the hands of an Irijh harper f : 
 his furviving followers returned to llay, conveyed the Earl and 
 Countefs of Athol to the fancluary they had violated, and expiated 
 their crime by refloring the plunder, and making large donations 
 to the fhrine of the offended faint. 
 
 John, fucceflbr to the laft Earl of Rofs, entered into alliance 
 with Edward IV £, fent ambafladors to the cou v t of England, where 
 Edward empowered the Bifhop of Durham, and Earl of IVorcefter, 
 the Prior of St. Johns of Jerufalem, and John lord Wenlock to 
 conclude a treaty with him, another Donald Balloch, and his fon 
 and heir, John. They agreed to ferve the king with all their 
 power, and to become his fubjecls : the earl was to have a hun- 
 dred marks fieri ing for life in time of peace, and two hundred 
 pounds in time of war j and thefe ifland allies, in cafe of the con* 
 quefl of Scotland, were to have confirmed to them all the pofTef- 
 ' fions to the north of the Scottijh fea ; and in cafe of a truce with 
 the Scoitijh monarch, they were to be included in it §. But about 
 the year 1476, Edward, from a change of politics, courted the 
 alliance of James III. and dropt his new allies. James, determined 
 
 * Buchanan, lib. xii. c. 19. 
 f Holinjhead Hift. Scot. 279; 
 
 J For the fake of making a diverfion in their favor, both Edward III. and Henry> 
 IV. condefcended to enter into alliance with thefe Reguli; 
 I Rj/mer's feed. xi. 483. 484. 
 
 23Q
 
 240 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 to fubdue this rebellious race, fent againft them a powerful army, 
 under the Earl of Athol, and took leave of him with this good 
 \vifh, Furth, Fortune, and fil the fetters •, as much as to fay, Co 
 forth, be fortunate, and bring home many captives : which the fa- 
 mily of Athol have ufed ever fi nee for its motto. Rofs was terri- 
 fied into fubmiffion, obtained his pardon, but was deprived of his 
 earldom, which by act of parlement was then declared unaliena- 
 bly annexed to the crown-, at the lame time the king reftored to 
 him Knapdale and Cantyre *, which the earl had refigned, and 
 inverted him anew with the lor dlhip of the ifl.es, to hold them of 
 the king by fervice and relief f. 
 
 Thus the great power of the ifles was broken •, yet for a consi- 
 derable time after, the petty chieftains were continually breaking 
 out into fmall rebellions, or harraffed each other in private wars j 
 and tyranny feeras but to have been multiplied. James V. found it' 
 neceffary to make the voyage of the ifles in perfon, in 15361 
 feized and brought away with him feveral of the mod confidera- 
 ble leaders, and obliged them to find fecurity for their own good 
 behaviour, and that of their vafials. The names of thefe chief- 
 tains were (accordiug to Lindefay %) Mydyart, Mac-connel, Mac- 
 loyd of the Lewis, Mac-niel, Mac-lane, Mac-intofh, John Mudyart, 
 Mac-kay, Mac-kenzie, and many others : but by the names of 
 ibme of the above, there feem to have been continental as well as 
 infular malecontents. He examined the titles of their holdings, 
 and finding feveral to have been ufurped, re united their lands to 
 
 * Boet. hift. Scot, app. 393. + Holiti/kead Chr. Scot, 2S2, 
 
 t P- IS 2 * 
 
 the
 
 HEBRIDES. 241 
 
 the crown. In the fame voyage he had the glory of caufing 
 furveys to be taken of the coafts of Scotland, and of the iflands, 
 by his pilot, Alexander Lindefay ; which were publifhed in 1583, 
 at Paris, by Nicholas de Nicholay, geographer to the French mo- 
 narch *. 
 
 The troubles that fucceeded the death of James occafioned a 
 neglect of thefe infulated parts of the Scottijh dominions, and left 
 them in a ftate of anarchy : in 16 14, the Mac-donalds made a 
 formidable infurrection, oppugning the royal grant of Cantyre to 
 the Earl of Argyle, and his relations -f-. The petty chieftains 
 continued in a fort of rebellion, and the fword of the greater, as 
 ulual in weak government, was employed againft them : the en- 
 couragement and protection given by them to pirates, employed 
 the power of the Campbels during the reign of James VI. and the 
 beginning of that of Charles I j\ 
 
 But the turbulent fpirit of the old times continued even to the 
 prefent age. The heads of clans were by the divifions, and a falfe 
 policy that predominated in Scotland during the reign of William III. 
 flattered with an unreal importance : inftead of being treated as 
 bad fubjects, they were courted as defirable allies j inftead of 
 feeling the hand of power, money was allowed to bribe them 
 into the loyalty of the times. They would have accepted the 
 fubfidies, notwithstanding they detefted the prince that offered 
 
 * Br. Topograph. 627. f Feuds of the clans, 99. Biogr. Britan. II. 1141. 
 
 % In the beginning of the laft century the iflanders were continually harrafling 
 Ireland with their plundering invafions ; or landing there to fupport rebellions : 
 at length it was made treafon to receive thefe Hebridian Red/banks, as they were 
 ftyled. Camden II. 1407. 
 
 I i them.
 
 242 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 them. They were taught to believe themfelves of fuch confe- 
 quence that in thefe days turned to their deftruction. Two re- 
 cent rebellions gave legiQature a late experience of the folly of 
 permitting the feudal fyftem to exift in any part of its dominions. 
 The act of 1748 at once deprived the chieftains of all power of 
 iujuring the public by their commotions *. Many of thefe Reguli 
 fecond this effort of legiflature, and neglect no opportunity of 
 rendering themfelves hateful to their unhappy vafTals, the former 
 inftruments of ambition. The Halcyon days are near at hand : 
 opprefiion will beget depopulation ; and depopulation will give us 
 a dear-bought tranquility. 
 Voyage con- The remainder of the day is paft in the found of Jura : about 
 
 tinubd. twelve at noon a pleafant but adverfe breeze arofe, which obliged 
 
 us to keep on towards the North, fometimes tacking towards the 
 coaft of lower Knapdak, black with heathy mountains, ver- 
 dant near the fhores with tracts of corn : advance towards upper 
 Knapdaie, rugged and alpine : am told of a dangerous rock in the 
 middle of the channel. About one o'clock of 
 
 June 30. receive notice of getting into the harbour of the fmall ijles ofJura 9 
 
 by the vefTePs touching ground in the entrance. On the appear- 
 ance of daylight find ourfelves at anchor in three fathom and a 
 half water, in a mod picturefque bay, bounded on the Weft by 
 the iile of Jura, with the paps overfhadowing us ; and to the Eaft 
 feveral little iflands cloathed with heath, leaving narrow admif- 
 fions into the port at North and South : in the maps this is called 
 the bay of Meil. 
 
 Land on the greater ifle, which is high and rocky. A boat 
 
 * The aft for abolishing heritable jurifdi&ions, &c. • 
 
 filled
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 243 
 
 filled with women and children crofTes over from Jura, to 
 collect their daily wretched fare, limpets and perriwinkles. Ob- 
 ferve the black guillemots in little flocks, very wild and much 
 in motion. 
 
 Mr. Campbel, principal proprietor of the ifland, is fo obliging as to 
 fend horfes : land in 
 
 Jura, 
 
 at a little village, and fee to the right on the more the church, 
 and the minifter's Manfe. Ride Weftward about five miles to 
 Ard-fin, the refidence of Mr. Campbell feated above the found of 
 Hay. 
 
 Jura the mod rugged of the Hebrides, is reckoned to be about Size, 
 
 thirty-four miles long, and in general ten broad, except along the 
 found of Bay : is compofed chiefly of vaft mountains, naked and 
 without the poftibility of cultivation. Some of the South, and a 
 little of the Weftern fides only are improveable : as is natural to be 
 fuppofed, this ifland is ill peopled,, and does not contain above kven 
 or eight hundred inhabitants ; having been a little thinned by the 
 epidemic migrations. 
 
 The very old clans are the Mac-il-vuys and the Mac-raines : but it Old clahs. 
 feems to have changed mailers more than once : in 1549 *, Donald 
 of Canty re, Mac-guillayne of Doward, Mac-guillayne of Kinlock-buy, and 
 Mac-Duffie of Colon/ay were the proprietors : Mac-lean of Mull had 
 alfo a (hare in 1586. At prefent Mr. Campbel by purchafe from Mr. 
 Campbel of ' Shawfield\ Mr. Mac-neile of Colon/ay, Mr. Campbel of Shaw- 
 field; and the Duke of Argyle divide this mafs of weather-beaten 
 
 barrennefs among them. 
 
 * Dean of the Ifles, 
 
 I i 2 In
 
 244 A V O Y A G E t o t h e 
 
 In 1607 Jura was included in the lordfhip of Cantyre, by charter,, 
 dated the laft of May, then granted to Archibald Earl of Argyle. 
 Producb. The produce is about three or four hundred head of cattle, 
 
 fold annually at 3 /. each, to graziers who come for them. About 
 a hundred hories are alfo fold annually : here are a few fheep 
 with fleeces of mod excellent finenefs, and numbers of goats. In 
 good feafons fufficient bear and oats are raifed as will maintain the 
 inhabitants : but they fometimes want, I fuppofe from the conver- 
 fion of their grain into whifky. But the chief food of the common 
 people is potatoes and fifh and fhell fifli. It is to be feared that 
 their competence of bread is very fmall. Bear produces four or five 
 fold ; oats three fold. 
 
 Fern afhes bring in about a hundred pounds a year : about two- 
 hundred tuns of kelp is burnt annually, and fold from three pounds 
 ten to four pounds per tun. 
 Fruits. Sloes are the only fruits of the ifland. An acid for punch is made 
 
 of the berries of the mountain afh : and a kind of fpirit is alfo dif- 
 tilled from them. 
 Dyes. Neceffity hath inftructed the inhabitants in the ufe of native dyes. 
 
 Thus the juice of the tops of heath boiled fupplies them with a yel- 
 low j the roots of the white water lily with a dark brown. Thofe 
 of the yellow water iris with a black : and the Galium verum, Rk 
 of the iflanders with a very fine red, not inferior to that from 
 Madder. 
 Quadrupeds The quadrupeds of Jura are about a hundred flags. Some wild 
 
 cats, otters, floats, rats and feals. The feathered game, black cocks, 
 grous, ptarmigans, and fnipes. The (lags mufl here have been once 
 more numerous, for the original name of the ifland was Deiry, or the 
 
 iflz 
 
 AND BIRDS.
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 245 
 
 ijle of Deer, fo called by the Norwegians from the abundance of thofe 
 noble animals. 
 
 The women are very prolific, and very often bear twins. The Longevity. 
 inhabitants lfve to a great age, and are liable to very few diflempers. 
 Men of ninety work ; and there is now living a woman of eighty 
 who can run down a flicep. The account given by Martin of Gillour 
 Mac-Crain, was confirmed to me. His age exceeded that of either 
 Jenkins or Par: for he kept a hundred and eighty chriftmafTes 
 in his own houfe, and died in the reign of Charles I. Among 
 the modern inflances of longevity I forgot to mention John Ar- 
 mour, of Campbeltown, aged one hundred and four, who was a cock- 
 fwain in our navy, at the time of the peace of Utrecht -, and within 
 thefe three years was flout enough to go out a mooting. 
 
 This parifh is fuppofed to be the larger! in Great Britain, and the 
 duty the mod troublefome and dangerous: it confifts of Jura, Ca- 
 lonfay, Oranfay, Skarba, and feveral little ifles divided by narrow and 
 dangerous founds ; forming a length of not lefs than fixty miles.; 
 fupplied by only one minifter and an affiflant. 
 
 Some fuperilitions are obferved here to .this time. The old wo- Supirstitions. 
 men, when they undertake any cure, mumble certain rhythmical 
 incantations ; and, like the antients, endeavour decantare dohrem. 
 They preferve a flick of the wicken tree, or mountain afh, as a 
 protection againfl elves. 
 
 I had fome obfcure account here of a worm, that in a lefs per- 
 nicious degree, bears fome refemblance to the Furia infernalis * of 
 Linnaus, which in the vafl bogs of Kemi drops on the inhabitants, 
 eats into the flefh and occafions a mofl excruciating death. The 
 
 • Eaun, Sutc* No. 2070. 
 
 Fillan 9j
 
 24 6 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 The Fillan. FiUan, a little worm of Jur a> fmall as a thread and not an inch in 
 length, like the Furia, infinuates itfelf under the fkin, caufes a redneis 
 and great pain, flies fwiftly from part to part ; but is curable by a 
 poultice of checfe and honey. 
 Isle of After dinner walk down to the found of Hay, and vifit the little 
 
 Fruchlan. iQand of Frucblan, near to the more, and a mile or two from the 
 Eaftern entrance. On the top is a ruined tower of a fquare form, 
 with walls nine feet thick •, on the Weft fide the rock on which it 
 ftands is cut through to a vaft depth, forming a fofs over which had 
 been the drawbridge. This fortrels feemed as if intended to guard 
 the mouth of the found ; and was alfo the prifon where the Mac- 
 donalds kept their captives, and in old times was called the caftle of 
 Claig. 
 July i. Ride along the fhore of the. found : take boat at the ferry, and go 
 
 a mile more by water : fee on the Jura fide fome Jheelins or fummer 
 huts for goatherds, who keep here a flock of eighty for the fake of 
 the milk and cheefes. The laft are made without fait, which they 
 receive afterwards from the afhes of fea-tang, and the tang itfelf 
 which the natives lap it in. 
 Sheeliks. Land on a bank covered with fheelins, the habitations of fome 
 
 peafants who attend the herds of milch cows. Thefe formed a 
 grotefque groupe •, fome were oblong, many conic, and fo low that 
 entrance is forbidden, without creeping through the little opening, 
 which has no other door than a faggot of birch twigs, placed 
 there occafionally : they are conftructed of branches of trees, 
 covered with fods -, the furniture a bed of heath, placed on a bank 
 of fod ; two blankets and a rug ; fome dairy veffels, and above, 
 certain pendent fhelves made of bafket work, to hold the cheefe, 
 
 the
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 247 
 
 the produce of the Summer. In one of the little conic huts, I 
 fpied a little infant aileep, under the protection of a faithful 
 dog. 
 
 Crofs, on foot, a large plain of ground, feemingly improveable, 
 but covered with a deep heath, and perfectly in a ftate of na- 
 ture. See the artlic-gull, a bird unknown in South Britain, which Arctic gull. 
 breeds here on the ground : it was very tame, but, if difturbed, 
 flew about like the lapwing, but with a more flagging wing. After p APS 0F j URA , 
 a walk of four miles, reach the Paps : left the leffer to the South 
 Eaft, preferring the afcent of the greateft, for there are three j 
 Beinn-a-chaolois, or, the mountain of the found ; Beinn-Jheunta, or, 
 the hallowed mountain ; and Beimi-an-bir, or, the mountain of 
 sold. We began to fcale the lad; a talk of much labor and 
 difficulty ; being compofed of vail ftones, flightly covered with 
 moiTes near the bafe, but all above bare, and unconnected with 
 each other. The whole feems a cairn, the work of the fons of 
 Saturn \ and Ovid might have caught his idea from this hill, had 
 he ken it. 
 
 Affedtafle ferunt regnum celefte Gigantes, 
 Altaque congeftos ftruxiffe ad fidera montes*. 
 
 Gain the top, and find our fatigues fully recompenced by the gran- 
 deur of the profpect from this fublime fpot : Jura itfelf afforded a 
 ftupendous fcene of rock, varied with little lakes innumerable, 
 From the Weft fide of the hill ran a narrow ftripe of rock, termi- 
 nating in the fea, called, the Jlide of the old hag. To the South 
 appeared Hay, extended like a map beneath us ; and beyond that, 
 the North of Ireland ; to the Weft, Gigha and Cara, Cantyre and 
 
 Arran>
 
 248 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Arran, and the Firth of Clyde, bounded by Airjhire-, an amazing 
 tract of mountains to the N. E. as far as Ben-lomond •, Skarba 
 finifhed the Northern view •, and over the Weftern ocean were 
 Scattered Colonfay and Oranfay, Mull, Jona, and its neighboring 
 groupe of ifles ; and ftill further the long extents of Tirey and Col 
 juft apparent. 
 
 On the fummit are feveral lofty cairns, not the work of devotion, 
 but of idle herds, or curious travellers. Even this vaft heap of 
 ftones was not uninhabited : a hind palTed along the fides full fpeed, 
 and a brace of Ptarmigans often favored us with their appearance, 
 even near the fummit. 
 
 The other paps are feen very dift'nctly •, each inferior in height to 
 this, but all of the fame figure, perfectly mamillary. Mr. Banks and 
 his friends mounted that to the South, and found the height to be 
 two thoufand three hundred and fifty-nine feet : but Beinn-an-bir far 
 over-topped it •, feated on the pinnacle, the depth below was tre- 
 mendous on every fide. 
 Stones. The ftones of this mountain are white (a few red) quartzy and 
 
 compofed of fmall grains j but fome are brecciated, or filled with 
 cryftalline kernels, of an amethyfline color. The other ftones of the 
 ifland that fell under my obfervation, were a cinereous flate, veined 
 with red, and ufed here as. a whet-ftone ; a micaceous fand-ftone ; 
 and between the fmall ijles and Ardejin, abundance of a quartzy mica- 
 ceous rock-ftone. 
 
 Return by the fame road, crofs the Sound, and not finding the 
 veflel arrived, am moft hofpitably received by Mr. Freebairn, of 
 Freeport, near Tort-ajkaig, his refidence on the Southern fide of the 
 water, in the ifland of 
 
 I L A Y,
 
 HEBRIDES, jug 
 
 Y. 
 
 Walk into the interior parts : on the way fee abundance of rock and July 2. 
 pit marie, convertible in the bed of manures. Vifit the mines, Mines of LEA»i 
 carried on under the directions o£M.\\Freebairn y fince the year 1763 : 
 the ore is of lead, much mixed with copper, which occafions ex- 
 pence and trouble in the feparation: the veins rife to the furface, 
 have been worked at intervals for ages, and probably in the time of 
 the Norwegians, a nation of miners. The old adventurers worked 
 by trenching, which is apparent every where : the trenches are not 
 above fix feet deep -, and the veins which opened into them not 
 above five or fix inches thick ; yet, by means of fome inftrument^ 
 unknown to us at prefent, they picked or fcooped out the ore with 
 good fuccefs, following it in that narrow fpace to the length of four 
 feet. 
 
 The veins are of various thicknefs ; the firings numerous, con- 
 ducting to large bodies, but quickly exhaufted. The lead-ore is 
 good : the copper yields thirty-three pounds per hundred ; and forty 
 ounces of filver from a tun of the metal. The lead ore is fmelted in 
 an air-furnace, near Freeport ; and as much fold in the pig, as, fince 
 the firft undertaking by this gentleman, has brought in fix thoufand 
 pounds. 
 
 Not far from thefe mines are vaft ftrata of that fpecies of iron called Iroj^ 
 
 hog-ore, of the concreted kind : beneath that large quantities of vi- 
 triolic mundic. 
 
 On the top of a hill, at fome little diftance, are fome rocks, with Emery. 
 great veins of emery running in the midft, in a horizontal direction, 
 $nd from one to three feet thick. 
 
 K k A final!
 
 1& 
 
 A VOYAGE to thi 
 
 Quicksilver. A fmall quantity of quickfilver has been found in the "moors"; 
 
 which ought to encourage a farther fearch. 
 
 Danish * ort. Continue the walk to die neighboring hill of Dun-Bhorairaig : 
 
 on the fummit is a Danijh fort, of a circular form, at prefent about 
 fourteen feet high, formed of excellent mafonry, but without mor- 
 tar : the walls are twelve feet thick ; and within their very thick- 
 nefs is a o-allery, extending all around, the caferne for the garrifon, or 
 the place where the arms were lodged fecure from wet. The en- 
 trance is low, cohered at top with great flat (lone, and on each fide is 
 a hollow, probably intended for guard-rooms, the infide of the fort 
 is a circular area, of fifty-two feet diameter, with a Hone feat 
 runnino- all round the bottom of the wall, about two feet high, 
 where might have been a general refting-place of chieftains and 
 
 foldiers. 
 
 On the outfide of the fort, is another work, under which is the 
 veftio-e of a fubterraneous paflage conducting into it, a fort of 
 ially port. Round the whole of this antrent fortrefs is a deep 
 fofs. Three of thefe forts are generally within fight, fo that in 
 cafe of any attempt made on any one, a fpeedy alarm might be 
 o-iven to the others. Each was the centre of a fmall diftrict -, 
 and to them the inhabitants might repair for (heifer in cafe of any 
 attack by the enemy : the notice was given from the fort, at 
 night by the light of a torch, in the day by the the found of 
 trumpet: an inftrument celebrated among the Danes, fometimes 
 made of brafs, fometimes of horn *. The northern Bards fpeak 
 hyperbolically of the effect of the blaft blown by the mouth of the 
 
 • Wormii mu/eum, 378. Boa?: not, b!Ji, Ireland, 197. Smith's bift. Cork, II. 404. 
 
 heroes.
 
 Hebrides: 
 
 heroes. The great Roland caufed his trumpet Olivant * to be heard 
 twenty miles, and by the found fcattered about the very brains of one 
 of his hearers. > 
 
 Return, and fee on the road fide the ruins of a chapel dedicated to 
 St. Columha ; and near it an antient crofs. 
 
 Several gentlemen of the ifland favor me with a vifit ; and offer Jutr 3* 
 
 their fervice to conduct me to whatever was worthy of attention. 
 Set out, in their company, on horleback, and ride South, crofting 
 the country ; find the roads excellent, but the country quite open ; 
 and too much good land in a (late of nature, covered with heath, 
 but mixed with plenty of natural herbage. See fome ftunted 
 woods of birch and hazels, giving fhelter to black game. On 
 Imiriconart, or the plain ridge, are the veftiges of fome butts, where 
 the great Mac-donald exercifed his men at archery. Reach and dine 
 at 
 
 Kilarow, a village feated on Locb-i?i-daal t a vaft bay, that pene- Kilarow. 
 trates very deeply into the ifland. Oppofite Bomore, mips of three 
 hundred tuns may ride with fafety ; which renders it a very conve- 
 nient retreat. 
 
 Near Kilarow is the feat of the proprietor of the ifland. In the 
 church-yard, is now proftrate a curious column, perhaps the fhaft of Cros«: 
 
 a crofs, for the top is broken off; and near it is aflat ftone, with a 
 hole in the middle, the probable pedeftal. The figures and infcrip- 
 tions are faithfully exprefled in the plate. 
 
 The two moft remarkable grave-ftones are, one of a warrior, Tombs 
 
 in a clofe veft and fleeves, with a fort of phillebeg reaching to his 
 
 • JVormii Mon. Dan. 381. 
 
 K k 2 knees, 
 
 »«*
 
 %£Z 
 
 A VOYAGE to- t: 
 
 knees, and the covering of his head of a coi^forvi, like the Bared 
 of the antient Irijh * : a fvvord in his hand^and dir^oy his fide. 
 The other has on it a great fword ; & beautiful running pattern of 
 foliao-e round it •, and a griffin, a lion, and another animal at one 
 end : near to them is a plain tablet, whether intended to be engraven, 
 or whether, like Peter Papin, Lord of Utrique, he was a new knight, 
 and wanted a device, muft remain undetermined. 
 
 On a little flat hill, near the village, are the remains of the gallows : 
 this was the place of execution in the days of the lords of the ifles» 
 From hence is a pretty view of the loch, and the church and village 
 of Bomore. 
 
 This part of the ifland is in many places bounded by a fort of 
 terrafs near twenty-two feet high, entirely formed of rounded fea- 
 worn pebbles, now fome hundred of yards diftant from the medium 
 line between high and low water mark ♦, and above twenty-five yards 
 above it. This is another proof of the lofs fuftained by the fea in 
 the Scottijb iflands j which, we know, makes more than reprizals in 
 other places. 
 
 Ride along the head of the bay ; at Tralaig, on a heathy eminence 
 that faces the fands, are three deep hollows ; their infides once lined 
 with ftone : thefe had been the watch-towers of the natives, to attend 
 the motions of any invaders from the fea. Obferve near them a 
 great column of rude ftone. 
 Mac-donald's Pafs by two deep channels, at prefent dry: thefe had been the har- 
 bour of the great Mac-donald ; had once piers, with doors to fecure 
 his (hipping-, a great iron hook, one of the hinges, having lately been 
 found there. 
 
 * Mr. O'Connor's diff. hift. Inland, 1 12» 
 
 The 
 
 HARBOUR*
 
 The vefTels 
 
 BRIDES. 
 
 ufe were called Birljngs, probably corrupted 
 
 from ByrdJJga*, h. fpecies of fbip among the Norwegians : but by 
 the fize o^jJie h4jfc>urs, it is plain that the navy of this potentate 
 was not very confiderdkl<\ 
 
 Turn a little out of the road to fee the fite of one of his houfes, 
 called Kil-chom<m> and a deep glen, which is pointed out to me as 
 the place where he kept his fat cattle : fuch a conveniency was very 
 neceffary, as mofl of the eflablifhrnent of the great Mac-donaWs 
 houfhold was paid in kind. Mr. Cavipbel, of Ballole, favored me 
 with the Hate of it in 1542, which was as follows : 
 
 253 
 
 His revenue. 
 
 North Cantyre. 
 
 In money, 125/. ioB. 
 
 Oat-meal, 388 ftones three-quarters* 
 
 Malt, 4 ch. 10 bolls. 
 
 Marts, i. e. a flail-fed ox, 6. 
 
 Gow, 1. 
 
 Muttons, 41 
 
 Cheefe, 307 ft. three-quarters* 
 
 South Cantyre. 
 
 In money, 162/. 8 B. 48. 
 Meal, 480 ft. 2 pt. 
 Malt, 25 ch. 14 B. 2 fir* 
 Marts, 48 
 Mutton, 53 
 Cheefe, 342 ft. three-quarters.* 
 
 Hay and Reinds f. 
 
 Money, 45/. 1 d. Meal, 2593 ft. Marts, 301. Mutton, 301. 
 Cheefe, 2161, 3pt. Geefe, 301. Poultry, 301. 
 
 * T'orfreus, 106. 
 
 t" A tratt of Hay to the Weft between Kilarova and Sunderland. 
 
 Total
 
 234 A VOYAGE to' the 
 
 
 
 
 
 I. B. 
 
 </. 
 
 1'otal in money, 332/. 18 B. 6. 
 
 
 
 
 332 18 
 
 6 
 
 Meal, 3061 ft. three-quarters, 1 
 
 :pt. ; 
 
 MiB. 
 
 
 366 2 
 
 10 
 
 Malt, 30 chal. 8 bolls, 2 fir. at 
 
 5 B. 
 
 
 
 122 2 
 
 6 
 
 Marts, 356, at 2 marks, 
 
 
 
 
 553 6 
 
 8 
 
 Mutton, 595, at 2 B. 
 
 
 
 
 45 11 
 
 10 
 
 Cheefe, 
 
 
 
 
 237 2 
 
 
 
 Geefe, 301, at 4*/. 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 (Poultry, 301, at id.) 
 
 It 
 
 \ Scotch 
 
 money, 
 
 
 
 
 1666 2 
 
 11 
 
 Obferve, near this place, a tract quite covered with clover, fown by 
 Sundsrland. nature. Proceed Weft, and am conducted to Sunderland *, the feat 
 of— — — Campbel, Efq. The improvements of his lands are ex- 
 cellent, and the .grafs fo good, and the fields fo clean, as to vie with 
 any place. Near the houfe, in a well-iheltered nook, is an apple-or- 
 chard, which bore plentifully : thefe, with ftrawberries, are the fruits 
 of thefe remote iilands ; the climate denies other luxuries of this 
 nature : and even in thefe articles, Pomona fmiles but where fhe finds 
 a warm protection. 
 
 About a mile from the houfe, on the coaft, feparated from the land 
 by a deep but dry chafm, is a large rock, with a pretty large area 
 on the top : on it are veftiges of various habitations, the retreat of 
 the antient natives in times of irrefiftible invafion : here they were 
 fecure, for the afcent is as difficult and hazardous as moll I have un- 
 dertaken. The place is called Burg-coul, and by the name refers to 
 Fingal, or Fin-mac-cuiL 
 
 * Near this place is the dangerous bay of Salltgo* 
 
 Sag
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 255 
 
 Sat up late, which gave me opportunity of knowing the light- 
 nefs of the night in the ifland at this feafon : for at half an hour 
 pall one in the morning, I could read the fmall print of a news- 
 paper. 
 
 Vifit Loch-guirm, about two miles diftant from Sunderland \ a July 4.' 
 water of four miles in circumference, mallow, but abounding Loch-Guirm. 
 with trout. It is moft remarkable for a regular fort of the Mac- 
 donald'Sy placed in a fmall ifland, but now in ruins : the form is 
 fquare, with a round baftion at each corner •, and in the middle 
 are fome walls, the remains of the buildings that fheltered the 
 garrifon : beneath one fide, between the two baftions, was the 
 place where Mac-donald fecured his boats : they were drawn be- 
 neath the prote&ion of the wall of the fort, and had another on 
 their outfide, built in the water, as an additional fecurity. The 
 Dean of the ifles fays, that in his time this caftle was uiurped by 
 Mac-killayne, of Doward, 
 
 Dine at Mr. Campbel's, of Balnabbi. His land is quite riante ; 
 his paftures in good order ; and his people bufily employed in 
 hay-making : obferved one piece of good grafs ground, which he 
 aflured me was very lately covered with heath, now quite de- 
 ftroyed by the ufe of fhell-fand. Perhaps it may feem trifling to 
 mention, that fome excellent new potatoes were ferved up at din- 
 ner ; but this circumftance, with the forwardnefs of the hay har- 
 veft, fhews what may be effected by culture in this ifland, when 
 the tenure is fecure, for both Sunderland and Balnabbi are proprie- 
 tors. 
 
 See, near the houfe, three upright Hones, of a ftupendous 
 
 fize.
 
 25 6 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 fize, placed nearly equi-diftant : the largeft was feventeen feet high, 
 and three broad. 
 Doun-vollan. Rj c | e tw0 m jles N. W. to Doun-vollan y where fome high rocks 
 project one behind the other into the fea, with narrow JJibmufes 
 between: on the afcent of each are fcrong dikes, placed trani- 
 verfely, and a path leading towards the top •, and on ibme parts 
 are hollows, probably the lodging of the occupiers. The laft of 
 thefe rocks terminate in a precipice over the fea, and was the 
 dernier refort of the defendants : fuch were the fortifications of the 
 barbarous ages : here, were the affailants fuccefsful, the garrifon 
 had no alternative but to perifh by the edge of the fword, or to 
 precipitate themfelves into the ocean. 
 Strange re- In various parts of this neighborhood are fcattered fmall holes,' 
 
 treats. formed in the ground, large enough to hold a fingle man in a fit- 
 
 ting pofture : the top is covered with a broad itone, and that 
 with earth : into thefe unhappy fugitives took ihelter after a de- 
 feat, and drawing together fods, found a temporary concealment 
 from enemies, who in early times knew not the giving or receiving 
 of quarter. The incurfions of barbarians were always fliort j fo 
 that the fugitives could eafily fubfift in their earths till the danger 
 was over. Men were then almoft in a ftate of nature : how 
 ftrong was their refemblance to beafts of prey ! The whole fcenery 
 of this place was unfpeakably favage, and the inhabitants fuitable. 
 Falcons fcreamed inceffantly over our heads, and we diiturbed the 
 eagles perched on the precipice. 
 
 Continue clambering among the rocks impending over the fea,' 
 and fplit by intervals into chafms, narrow, black and of a ftupen- 
 .dous depth; whofe bottoms appeared and difappeared according 
 
 to
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 *57 
 
 to the momentary corufcations of the furious foam of the waves, 
 rolling from the heavy ocean. Proceed along a narrow path, 
 furrounding the face of a promontory hanging over the water, 
 fkipping nimbly over a way that fear alone could make dangerous, 
 laughing at a bulky companion whom the reft had diftanced. 
 
 Defcend a fteep tract, and found part of our company (who chofe Sansg-mor cave. 
 a lefs picturefque road). in pofTeffion of the fine cave of Saneg-mor: 
 the entrance was difficult ; but after fome travel found the infide 
 of an auguft extent and height ; the roof folid rock, which re- 
 turned with the noife of thunder, the difcharge of our mufkets. 
 Within this cave was another ftrait before us, with a fine arched 
 entrance : feveral of the company had got into it, and pafiing with 
 their tapers backwards and forwards, from recefs to recefs, ap- 
 peared at our diftance like the gliding fpectres of Shake/pear in 
 the pit of Acheron. We followed, and found our grotto divided 
 into numbers of far-winding paffages, fometimes opening into 
 fine expanfes, again clofing, for a long fpace, into galleries, paf- 
 fable but with difficulty : a perfect fubterraneous labyrinth. A 
 bagpiper preceded : at times the whole fpace was filled with the 
 found, which died away by degrees to a mere murmur, and foon 
 after again aftonifhed us with the bellowing, according as the 
 meanders conducted him to, or from our fingular flations. 
 
 Take leave of the hofpitable family of Sunderland: ride along July 5. 1 
 
 a different road acrofs the ifland ; pafs by fome cairns, and fome 
 antient fences on the heaths. Reach the head of Loch-Druinard, Battle of 
 a place celebrated for the battle of Fr aii-dhr ulnar d, in 1598, be- NARD , 
 
 tween the lord of the ifies, and Sir Lauchlan Mac-lean, of Mull: the 
 laft, with fifteen hundred men, invaded Hay, with a view of ufurp- 
 
 L 1 ing
 
 2si 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 ino- it from his nephew : the firft had only eleven hundred, and 
 was at firit obliged to retreat till he was joined by a hundred and 
 twenty frefh forces : this decided the engagement. Sir Lamb' 
 Ian was {lain, with four-fcore of his principal kinfmen, and two 
 hundred of his foldiers, who lay furrounding the body of their chief- 
 tain. A itone (till on the fpot, was erected in memory of his fall. 
 
 Sir Lauchlan confulted a witch, the oracle of Mull, before he 
 fet out on his expedition •, and received three pieces of advice : 
 firft, Not to land on a 1'hurfday : a ftorm forced him into difobe- 
 dience. The fecond, Not to drink of a certain fpring : which he 
 did through ignorance. The third, Not to fight befide Loch-drui- 
 nard : but this the fates may be fuppofed to have determined. 
 Loch-finlacan. Ride by Loch-jinlagan, a narrow piece of water, celebrated for 
 its ifle, a principal refidence of the great Mac-donald. The ruins 
 of this place and chapel ftill exift, and alio the ftone on which he 
 flood when he was crowned king of the ifles. This cuftom feems 
 to have been common to the northern nations. The Dams * had 
 their Kongftolen. 
 
 The ceremony, (after the new lord had collected his kindred 
 and vafials) was truly -patriarchal. After putting on his armour his 
 helmet and his fword, he took an oath to rule as his anceftors had 
 done ; that is, to govern as a father would his children : his people 
 in return fwore that they would pay the fame obedience to him as 
 children would to their parent. The dominions of this potentate 
 about the year 1586 confided only of Hay , Jura, Knapdale and Can- 
 tyre. So reduced were they, from what they had been, before the 
 
 * Stephanii not«e in Sax. Gramm. 29. 
 
 deprivation
 
 HEBRIDES. ;*£ 
 
 deprivation of the great Earl of Rofs in the reign of 
 James III. 
 
 Near this is another little iQe, where he afTembled his council : 
 Han na Corlle, or, The ifland of council ; where thirteen judges 
 conflantly fate to decide differences among his fubjecls •, and re- 
 ceived for their trouble the eleventh part of the value of the affair 
 tried before them *. 
 
 In the firfl ifland were buried the wives and children of the lords 
 of the ides ; but their own perfons were depofited in the more 
 facred ground of Jona. 
 
 On the fhores of the lake are fome marks of the quarters of 
 his Carnauch and Gilli-glajfes, the military of the ifles : the firfl 
 fignifying a flrong man j the laft, a grim-looking fellow. The 
 firfl were light-armed, and fought with darts and daggers ; the lafl 
 with fliarp hatchets -j-. Thefe are the troops that Shake/pear alludes 
 to, when he fpeaks of a Donald, who 
 
 From the Weflern ifles 
 Of Kernes and G allow glajjes was fupplied. 
 
 Upon the more are the remains of a pier, and on a flone is cut, 
 A. II. or, CEneas the fecond, one of the lords of the ifles, in 
 whofe reign it was founded j\ This proves fufficiently that Mac- 
 donald was not their general title, as fome have imagined : the 
 
 •J- Thefe were the Artnin or 'Tierna heads of the principal families ; who alfo 
 afiifted the Lord of the ifles with their advice. 
 
 •f Camden, 1 42 ( . 
 
 J Boetbius, 383. Fordun fays, that the lord of the ifles had here duas man/tones, 
 St Caftrum Domanowalk. 
 
 L 1 2 miflake
 
 26d A VOYAGE to the 
 
 miftake arofe from two of the name of Donald, who were mod 
 remarkable for the ravages they made in Scotland, in the reign of 
 Edward Baliol, in 1368, and in that of James I. in 1410. As the 
 title is popular Hill in the ifles, I chufe to continue what is fo 
 much in ufe. 
 
 Bcfides thofe already mentioned, the lords had a houfe and cha- 
 pel at Laganon, on the South fide of Loch-an-daal : a flrong caftle 
 on a rock in the fea, at Dunowaick, at the South-Eaft end of the 
 country ; for they made this ifland their refidence after their ex- 
 pulfion from that of Man, in 1304. 
 
 There is a tradition, that while the ifle of Man was part of 
 the kingdom of the ifles, that the rents were for a time paid 
 in this country : thofe in filver were paid on a rock, ftill called 
 Creig-a-nione, or, the rock of the filver rent : the other, Or eg- 
 a-nairgid, or, the rock of rents in kind. Thefe lie oppofite to 
 each other, at the mouth of a harbour on the S. fide of this 
 ifland. 
 
 Return to Freeport, and go on board my vefTel, now at anchor 
 on the Jura fide of the found, in JVhitefarlane bay. 
 Description The ifle of Hay, I/la, or, as it is called in Erfe, He, is of a 
 
 fquare form, deeply indented on the South by the great bay of 
 Loch-an-daal, divided from Jura, on the N. Eaft, by the found, 
 which is near fourteen miles long, and about one broad* The 
 tides mod violent and rapid : the channel clear, excepting at the 
 S. entrance, where there are fome rocks on the Jura fide. 
 
 The length of Hay, from the point of Ruval to the Mull of Ki- 
 ?wtb, is twenty-eight miles ; is divided into the parifhes of KildaU 
 
 ton^ 
 
 ofIlay.
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 261 
 
 ton, Kilarow, Kilcboman, and Kilmenie. The latitude * of Free- 
 fort, Sd° 5 2 ' 29 ' N. The face of the ifland is hilly, but not high: 
 the loftieft hills are Aird inifdail, Diur-bheinn, and Sgarbh-bhein. 
 The land in many parts is excellent, but much of it is covered 
 with heath, and abfolutely in a (late of nature. 
 
 The produce is corn of different kinds ; fcch as bear, which 
 fometimes yields eleven-fold •, and oats fix-fold : a ruinous diftil- 
 lation prevales here ; infomuch that it is fuppofed that more of 
 the bear is drank in form of whifky ; than eaten in the fhape of 
 bannocs. Wheat has been raifed with good fuccefs in an inclo- 
 fure belonging to the proprietor ; but in an open country where 
 moft of the cattle go at large, it is impoflible to cultivate that 
 o-rain ; and the tenants are unable to inclofe. Much flax is raifed 
 here, and about 2000/. worth, fold out of the ifland in yarn,, 
 which might better be manufactured on the fpot, to give employ 
 to the poor natives* 
 
 A fet of people worn down with poverty : their habitations 
 fcenes of mifery, made of loofe ftones •, without chimnies^ with- 
 out doors, excepting the faggot oppofed to the wind at one or 
 other of the appertures, permitting the fmoke to efcape through 
 the other, in order to prevent the pains of fuffocation. The 
 furniture perfectly correfponds : a pothook hangs from the middle 
 of the roof, with a pot pendent over a gratelefs fire, filled with 
 fare that may rather be called a permifTion to exift, than a fup- 
 port of vigorous life : the inmates, as may be expecled, lean. 
 
 Produce. 
 
 Houses, 
 
 * I am greatly indebted to Dodlor Lind for the true latitude', and for a beautiful 
 jnap of the ifle from which I take my meafurements. 
 
 withered*
 
 t 6z AVOYAGEtothe 
 
 withered, dufky and fmoke-dried. But my picture is not of this 
 ifland only. 
 
 Notwithstanding the excellency of the land, above a thoufand 
 pounds worth of meal is annually imported, a famine threatened 
 at this time ; but was prevented by the feafonable arrival of a 
 meal fhip; and the inhabitants like the fons of Jacob of old, flocked 
 down to buy food. 
 Heath ale. Ale is frequently made in this ifland of the young tops of heath, 
 
 mixing two thirds of that plant with one of malt, fometimes add- 
 ing hops. Boethius relates that this liquor was much ufed among 
 the Pifts, but when that nation was extirpated by the Scots, the 
 fecret of making it periflied with them *. 
 Manures. The country bleft with fine manures : befides fea-wrack, coral, 
 
 fhell fand, rock and pit marie, it pofiefles a tract: of thirty-fix fquare 
 miles of limeftone. What treafures, if properly applied, to bring 
 wealth and plenty into the ifland. 
 Cattle. Numbers of cattle are bred here, and about feventeen hun- 
 
 dred are annually exported at the price of fifty fhillings each. 
 The ifland is often overflocked, and numbers die in March for 
 want of fodder. None but milch cows are houfed : cattle of all 
 other kinds, except the faddle horfes, run out during winter. 
 
 The number of inhabitants is computed to be between {even 
 and eight thoufand. About feven hundred are employed in the 
 mines and in the fifhery : the reft are gentlemen-farmers, fub- 
 tenants or fervants. The women fpin. Few as yet have mi- 
 grated. 
 
 * Defer, Regni Scotorum, p. 8. 
 
 The
 
 HEBRIDES. 263 
 
 The fervants are paid in kind ; the fixth part of the crop. 
 They have houfes gratis : the mafter gives them the feed for the 
 firft year, and lends them horfes to plough annually the land 
 annexed. 
 
 The air is lefs healthy than that of Jura : the prefent epidemi- Diseases. 
 cal difeafes are dropfies and cancers : the natural effects of bad 
 food. 
 
 The quadrupeds of this ifland are floats, weefels, otters and Animals. 
 
 hares : the laft fmall, dark-colored, and bad runners. The birds 
 are eagles, peregrine falcons, black and red game ; and a very 
 few ptarmigans. Red breafled goofanders breed on the more 
 among the loofe flones, wild geefe in the moors. Herons in the 
 ifland in Loch-guirm. The fifh are plaife, fmeardab, large dabs, 
 mullets, ballan, lump-rifh, black goby, greater dragonet, and 
 that rare fifh the Lepadogafier of M. Gouan. 
 
 Vipers fvvarm in the heath : the natives retain the vulgar error Vipers. 
 
 of their flinging with their forked tongues ; that a fword on which 
 the poifon has fallen will hifs in water like a red hot iron ; and 
 that a poultice of human ordure is an infallible cure for the bite. 
 
 In this ifland feveral antient diverfions and fuperflitions are flill Diversions 
 preferved : the laft indeed are almofl extinct, or at moft lurk only a ndsuperstion$; 
 amongfl the very meanefl of the people. 
 
 The late wakes or funerals, like thofe of the Romans, were at- 
 tended with fports, and dramatic entertainments, compofed of 
 many parts, and the actors often changed their dreffes fuitable to 
 their characters. The fubject of the Drama was hiflorical and 
 preferved by memory. 
 
 The active fports are wrefHing. Another is performed by 
 
 jumping
 
 2 6 4 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 jumping on a pole held up horizontally by two men •, the perfor- 
 mer lio-hts on his knees, takes hold with both hands, bends and 
 kiffes it •, and then fprings off. He who fucceeds in the feat 
 when the poll is at the higheft elevation, carries the prize. 
 
 A fecond game of activity is played by two or three hundred, 
 who form a circle; and every one places his ftick in the ground 
 before him, by way of barriere. A perfon called the odd man, 
 {lands in the middle, and delivers his bonnet to any one in the 
 ring. This is nimbly handed round, and the owner is to recover 
 it: and on fucceeding, takes the place of the perfon, whom 
 he took it from ; and that perfon again takes the middle 
 place. 
 
 There are two other tryals of ftrength : firftly, throwing the 
 fledge hammer. The other feems local. Two men fit on the 
 ground foot to foot : each lays hold of a lhort ftick ; and the 
 champion that can pull the other over is the winner. 
 
 The power of fafcination is as ftrongly believed here as it was 
 by the fhepherds of Italy in times of old. 
 
 Nefcio quis teneros oculis mihi fafcinat agnos ? 
 
 But here the power of the evil-eye affects more the milch cows than 
 lambs. If the good houfewife perceives the effect of the malicious on 
 any of her kine, fhe takes as much milk as fhe can drain from the 
 enchanted herd, for the witch commonly leaves very little. She 
 then boils it with certain herbs, and adds to them flints and un- 
 tempered fteel : after that fhe fecures the door, and invokes the 
 three facred perfons. This puts the witch into fuch an agony, 
 that ihe comes nilling-willing to the houfe, begs to be admitted, 
 
 to
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 to obtain relief by touching the powerful pot : the good woman 
 then makes her terms j the witch reftores the milk to the cattle, 
 and in return is freed from her pains. 
 
 But fometimes to fave the trouble of thofe charms (for it may- 
 happen that the diforder may arife from other caufes than an evil- 
 eye) the tryal is made by immerging in milk a certain herb, and 
 if the cows are fuper-naturally affected, it inftantly diftills blood. 
 
 The unfuccefsful lover revenges himfelf on his happy rival 
 by charms potent as thofe of the fhepherd Alpheftbteus, and exactly 
 fimilar. 
 
 Ne£le tribus nodis ternos Amarylli colores : 
 Ne&e, Amarylli, modo. 
 
 Donald takes three threads of different hues, and ties three 
 knots on each, three times imprecating the moft cruel diiappoint- 
 ments on the nuptial bed : but the bridegroom to avert the harm, 
 ftands at the altar with an untied fhoe, and puts a fix-pence be- 
 neath his foot. 
 
 A prefent was made me of a clach clun ceilach> or cock-knee 
 flone, believed to be obtained out of that part of the bird j but 
 I have unluckily forgotten its virtues. Not fo with the clach cru- 
 bain^ which is to cure all pains in the joints. It is to be pre- 
 fumed both thefe amulets have been enchanted ; for the farft very 
 much refembles a common pebble ; the other is that fpecies of 
 fofTil fhell called Gryphites. 
 
 I was alfo favored with feveral of the nuts, commonly called 
 Molucca beans, which are frequently found on the weflern mores 
 
 Mm of 
 
 265 
 
 Amulets,
 
 266 AVOYAGEtothe 
 
 of th : s and others of the Hebrides. They are the feeds of the Deli- 
 cbes wrens, Guilandina Bcnduc. G. Bonducetta, & mimofa fcandem of 
 Linthcus, natives of Jamaica. The fifth is a feed called byBAUHW, 
 friiihis ey.ot : orbicularis fulcis nervifque quatuor, whole place is un- 
 known. The four firft grow in quantities on the fteep banks 
 of the rivers of Jamaica, and are generally fuppofed to drop 
 into the water, and to be carried into the fea : from thence by 
 tides and currents, and the predominancy of the Eafl wind, to be 
 forced through the gulph of Florida, into the North American 
 ocean, in the fame manner as the Sargajfo, a plant growing on 
 the rocks in the feas of Jamica. When arrived in that part of 
 the Atlantic, they #11 in with the Wefterly winds, which gene- 
 rally blow two-thirds of the year in that tract ; which may help 
 to convey them to the fnores of the Hebrides and Orknies*. I 
 was for refolving this phcenomenon into fhip-wrecks, and fup- 
 pofing that they might have been flung on thefe coafts out of 
 fome unhappy vefiels : but this folution of mine is abfolutely 
 denied, from the frequency and regularity of the appearance of 
 thefe feeds. American tortoifes, or turtle, have more than once 
 been taken alive on thefe coafts, tempeft-driven from their warm 
 feas ; and part of the maft of the Tilbury man of war, burnt at 
 Jamaica, was taken up on the Weftern coaft of Scotland; fads 
 that give probability to the firft opinion. 
 History. Hiftory furnifhes very few materials for the great events or re- 
 
 volutions of Hay. It feems to have been long a feat of empire, 
 probably jointly with the ifle of Man, as being moft conveniently 
 
 * PMLTranf. abridged, III. 540. 
 
 fituated
 
 HEBRIDES. 2.6? 
 
 fituated for the government of the reft of the Hebrides ; for Cro- 
 van, the Norwegian, after his conqueft of that ifland, in 1066^ 
 retired and finifhed his days in Bay *. There are more T)anijb 
 or Norwegian names of places in this ifland than any other ; ai- 
 med all the prefent farms derive their titles from them, fuch as 
 Perfibus, Torridale, Torribolfe, and the like. On the retreat of 
 the Danes it became the feat of their fuccefTors, the lords of 
 the iQes, and continued after their power was broken, in the 
 reign of James III. in their defendants, the Mac-donalds, who 
 held, or ought to have held, it from the crown. It was in the 
 pofTerTion of a Sir James Mac-donald, in the year 1598, the fame 
 who won the battle of Traii-dhruinard before mentioned. His 
 power gave umbrage to James VI. who directed the Lord of Mac- 
 lead, Cameron of Lochiel, and the Mac-neilcs of Barra, to fupport the 
 Mac-leanes in another invafion. The rival parties met near the hill 
 of Ben-bigger, eaft of Kilarow : a fierce engagement enfued, and the 
 Macdonalds were defeated, and almoft entirely cut off. Sir James 
 efcaped to Spain -, but returned in 1620, was pardoned, received 
 a penfion, and died the fame year at Glafgow, and in him 
 expired the lafl of the great Mac-donalds. But the King, irri- 
 tated by the disturbances raifed by private wars, waged be- 
 tween thefe and other clans, refumed -f- the grant made by his 
 predeceffor, and transferred it to Sir John Campbel, of Calder, 
 who held it on paying an annual feu-duty of five hundred pounds 
 fterling, which is paid to this day. The ifland was granted to 
 Sir John, as a reward for his undertaking the conqueft; but the 
 
 ♦ Cbnn, man, f Feuds of the Hies, gg. 
 
 M m 2 family
 
 z6S AVOYAGEtotme 
 
 family confidered it as a dear acquisition, by the lofs of many 
 gallant followers, and by the expences incurred in fupport of it. 
 At prefent it is in poffefiion of Mr. Campbel, of Shawfield, and 
 the rents are about 2300/. per annum. 
 
 July 6. Weigh anchor at three o'clock in the morning : with the afiift- 
 
 ance of the tide get out of the Sound. See, on the North- Weft 
 
 Thwrot. (i<je, the place where that gallant enemy Thurot lay, at different 
 
 times, expecting the fit opportunity of his invafion, to be deter- 
 mined by the news he had of the fuccefs of the Brejt fquadron. 
 He was told that he lay in a dangerous place ; but he knew that 
 his fecurity confifted, in cafe a fuperior force came againft him, 
 in being able either to take to fea, or efcape through the Sound* 
 according to the quarter the attack came from. His generofity 
 and humanity is fpoken of in high terms by the iflanders ; and 
 his diftrefs appeared very deep when he was informed of the mif- 
 carriage of Conflans's fleet. 
 
 Leave, on the Hay coaft, near the mouth of the Sound, the ce- 
 lebrated cave of Uamb-Fheamaig, or Uam-mhbr. Fourteen or fif- 
 teen families retire to it during the fine feafon, as their Jheelins^ 
 or Summer refidence j and three families refide in it the whole 
 year. 
 
 About eight or nine miles from the mouth of the Sound \\t the 
 ifles of Oranfay and Colon/ay. The flillnefs of the day made the 
 paffage tedious ; which induced us to take boat : the view, mid- 
 way, was very fine of Hay and Jura, of the opening into Lcch- 
 Tarbat, a bay penetrating deep into Jura, and affording anchorage 
 for large veffels •, as was experienced a very few years ago, by one 
 of eight hundred tuns, driven in during night : the matter found an 
 
 opening.
 
 HEBRIDES. 2 6 9 
 
 opening, and paffed providentially between two rocks, at a fmall 
 dillance from each other ; and finding himfelf in fmooth water, 
 dropped anchor, and lay fecure in a fine natural wet dock. A 
 difcovery worthy the attention of mariners *. 
 
 Beyond Jura appears the gulph of Ccrry-vrekan, bounded by the 
 ifle of Skarba ; the mountains of Mull fucceed ; and before us ex- 
 tend the mores of the two iflands, the immediate objects of our vifit.. 
 Land about one o'clock on 
 
 O R A N S A Y : 
 
 The fh.ip arrives foon after, and anchors within Ghudimal^ which,, 
 with two or three other little rocky ifles, forms an harbour. 
 
 After about a mile's walk reach the ruins of the antient monaftery, Abut. 
 
 founded (as fome fay) by St. Columba, but with more probability by 
 one of the Lords of the IJles, who fixed here a priory of Canons regular 
 of Augufiine^ dependent on the abby of Holyrood, in Edinburgh. The 
 church is fifty-nine feet by eighteen, and contains die tombs of num- 
 bers of the antient iflanders,, two of warriors recumbent, feven feet 
 long ; a flattery perhaps of the fculptor, to give to future ao-es ex- 
 alted notions of their prowefs. Befides thefe, are fcattered over the 
 floor leffer figures of heroes, priefts and females ; the laft feemin.o-ly 
 of fome order : and near them is a figure, cut in {tone, of full fize, 
 apparently an abbefs. 
 
 * Mariners have overlooked the account of this harbour given by Alexander 
 Lindfay, pilot to James V. in his navigation round Scotland, in 15 36, who pro- 
 nounces it to have good anchorage. James in perfon executed the great defigu 
 of taking charts of the coafts of his dominions, and founding the moft diitant and 
 dangerous rocks. 
 
 In
 
 270 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 In a fide chapel, beneath an arch, lies an abbot, of the name of 
 Mac-dufie, with two of his fingers elated, in the attitude of benedic- 
 tion : in the fame place is a ftone enriched with foliage, a (lag fur- 
 rounded with dogs, and a fhip with full fail : round is infcribed, 
 hie jacct Murchardus Mac-dufie de Collonfa, An. Do. 1539, menfe 
 mart, ora me ille. ammen. 
 
 This Murchardus is faid to have been a great oppieffor, and that 
 he was executed, by order of the Lord of the ifles, for his tyranny. 
 Near his tomb is a long pole, placed there in memory of the enfign- 
 ilaff of the family, which had been preferved miraculoufly for two 
 hundred years : on it (report fays) depended the fate of the Mac- 
 dufian race, and probably the original perifhed with this Mur- 
 chardus. 
 
 Singular Adjoining to the church is the cloifter : a fquare of forty-one feet ; 
 
 cloister, one of the fides of the inner wall is ruined -, on two of the others are 
 
 feven low arches, one feven feet high including the columns, which 
 are nothing more than two thin ftones *, three feet high, with a flat 
 ftone on the top of each, ferving as a plinth; and on. them two 
 other thin ftones, meeting at top, and forming an acute angle, by 
 way of arch : on the fore-fide are five fmall round arches ; thefe 
 furround a court of twenty eight feet eight inches. This form is 
 peculiar (in our part of Europe) to this place •, but I am told that the 
 fame is obferved in fome of the religious houfes in the iilands of the 
 Archipelago. 
 
 Several other buildings join this, all in a ruinous ftate; but a 
 
 * On one of thefe there is an inscription, which was copied, but by fome acci- 
 dent lolb 
 
 moil
 
 XIX. 
 
 a$6 
 
 I . CRO SS IN OMAKSAlTo MEL CRO § § IE' ILAY,
 
 SK 
 
 tlHKej'HHpt,! 
 
 fiiinuiirwv 
 
 - 
 
 -IIUlDlMJimijj 
 
 \ 
 
 238 
 
 
 ! 
 
 ww.n?, 
 
 ^A^^C^U
 
 f S(Wt/o /// //, 
 
 //tV/ff.l/,'/-// (•/ (/■<///,!</// 
 
 SUL,^.^
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 mod elegant crofs ; s yet {landing, twelve feet high, one foot feven 
 broad, five inches thick. 
 
 St. Columba^ when he left Ireland^ made a vow never to fettle 
 within fight of his native country : accordingly when he and his 
 friend Oran landed here, they ail-ended a hill, and Ireland ap- 
 peared full in view. This induced the holy men to make a fud- 
 den retreat •, but Oran had the honor of giving name to the ifland. 
 
 Afcend the very hill that the Saint did. Lofty and craggy, 
 inhabited by red billed choughs, and flares. On the top is a July 7. 
 retreat of the old inhabitants, protected by a flrong (tone dike 
 and advanced works. On the plain below is a large round mount, 
 flat at top •, on which had probably been a fmall DaniJIo fort, fuch 
 as are frequently feen in Ireland. Nearer the Ihore in the eafl; 
 fide of the ifland is a large conic Tumulus ; and on the fame plain, 
 a fmall crofs placed, where a Mac-dujie's corps is faid to have 
 relied. 
 
 Take boat and viCiz Bird Ifiarid, and fome other rocks divided by 
 narrow paftages, filled by a moll rapid, tide. Saw feveral Eider Bird Isle? 
 ducks and fome fhieldrakes. The inlanders neglect to gather the down 
 of the former -, which would bring in a little money. 
 
 This is the bird called by the Dean of the ifles, Colk. From the 
 circumftance of its depluming its breafl, he fables that, ' at that 
 time her fleiche of fedderis falleth of her hailly, and fayles to the 
 mayne fea againe, and never comes to land quhyll the zeir end 
 again, and then fhe comes with her nev fleiche of fedderis : this 
 fleiche that fhe leaves zeirly upon her neft hes nae pens in the 
 fedderis, bot utter fine downes.' 
 
 The feals are here numerous. A few are caught in nets placed 
 
 between. 
 
 271
 
 272 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 between thefe rocks. The great fpecies is taken on Du birtacb, a 
 great rock about a mile round, ten leagues to the weft ; reported to 
 be the neareft of any to America. 
 
 Oranfay is three miles long : the fouth part low and fandy, the 
 reft high and rocky. Is divided from Colon/ay by a narrow found 
 Husbandry. fay at ] ow water. This ifland is a fingle farm, yielding bear, 
 flax, and much potatoes •, which are left in their beds the whole 
 winter, covered with fea-wrack, to protect them from thefroft. The 
 manure is (hell fand and wrack : the laft laid on grafs will produce 
 but one crop •, on corn-land it will produce two. Sixty milch cows 
 are kept here : and this year eighty head of cattle were fold from the 
 ifland at three pounds a-piece : fome butter and cheefe are alfo ex- 
 ported. 
 
 This ifland is rented by Mr. Mac-Neik, brother to the pro- 
 prietor of both iflands. The rent is not more than forty pounds a 
 year : yet according to the cuftom of the ifles, the farm employs a 
 number of fervants, viz. a chief labourer, who has fifty (hillings a 
 year, and a ftone of meal per week : a principal herdfman, whofe 
 wages are grafs for two cows, and meal fufficient for his family : 
 a cow-herd who has twenty-four fhillings a year and fhoes : one 
 under him, whofe wages are about fixteen millings : and a calf- 
 herd, who is allowed ten fhillings. Befides thefe are two other 
 men, called from their employ Aoireannan, who have the charge 
 of cultivating a certain portion of land ; and alfo overfeeing the 
 cattle it fupports -, thefe have grafs for two milch cows, and fix 
 fheep •, and the tenth ftieaf, the produce of the ground, and as 
 many potatoes as they chufe to plant. The maid fervants are a 
 houfekeeper, at three pounds a year : a principal dairy maid, 
 
 twelve
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 twelve marks &cois y each half year ; and five other women, five 
 marks. 
 
 Crofs the found at low water, and enter the ifland of 
 
 Colonsav. 
 
 Twelve miles long, three broad, full of rocky hills, running tranf- 
 verfely, with variety of pretty meandring vales full of grafs, and 
 molt excellent for pafturage. Even the hills have plenty of her- 
 bage mixed with the rock. The vallies want inclofures and 
 want woods, the common defect of all the Hebrides : They yield 
 bear and potatoes, much of the firft is ufed in diftillation, to the 
 very ftarving of the iflanders, who are obliged to import meal for 
 their fubfiftence. About two hundred and twenty head of cattle 
 are annually exported at 3/. each. In 1736 the price was only 
 five and twenty millings i but the rife commenced two years 
 after the rebellion. Yet even this advance does not enrich the 
 people of this pretty ifland, for their whole profit is exhaufted 
 in the purchafe of bread, which their own induftry ought to 
 fupply. 
 
 Oats are fown here about the middle of Aprils and yield three 
 and a half. Bear produces eight fold. Forty or fifty tuns of kelp 
 are annually made in both iflands. The materials are collected on 
 the fhores in the middle of April, and the kelp exported in Auguft, at 
 the rate of 3 /. 10 s. or 4 /. per tun. 
 
 Their poverty prevents them from ufing the very means Pro- 
 vidence has given them of raifing a comfortable fubfiftence. They 
 have a good foil, plenty of limeftone, and fufficient quantity 
 
 N n of 
 
 W
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 of peat. A fea abounding with fifh, but their diftrefFed (late 
 difables them from cultivating the one, and taking the other. 
 Thefe two iflands contain eight thoufand four hundred acres, of 
 which about two thoufand fix hundred are arable. How inadequate 
 then is the produce of cattle; and how much more fo is that of 
 corn ! 
 
 The foil of this ifland is far fuperior in goodnefs to that of Oranfay -> 
 yet how difproportionably lefs are the exports : Oranfay awes its adr 
 vantages to the good management of the tenant. 
 
 In both iflands are between five and fix hundred fouls. The old 
 inhabitants were the Mac-dufies and the Mac-vurechs. The firft were 
 chief, * This ijle, fays the Dean, is brtikit be ane gentle capitane callit 
 Mac-Dufyke and pertened of auld to Clandonaldof Kyntyre,' and it is 
 now brukit be ane gentle capitane callit Mac-neile, who has never 
 raifed his rents, has preferved the love of his people, and loft but a 
 fingle family by migration. 
 
 This ifland, fince the time of the Dean, was the property of the 
 Argyk family, who fold it to an anceftor of the prefent proprietor 
 about fixty years ago. I conjecture that the antient owner might 
 have forfeited by engaging in the laft rebellion of the Mac-donalds \ 
 and that it was included in the large grant of iflands made to the. 
 Campbels, in reward for their fer vices. 
 
 Met with nothing very interefting in the ride. Pafs by a chain 
 of fmall lakes, called Lock fad, by two great erect flones monumental, 
 at Cil-chattan •, and by a ruined chapel. There are three others •, 
 but notwithstanding from this circumflance, Oranfay and Colonfay 
 might be fuppofed to have been ifles of fanctity, yet from the 
 
 reformation
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 reformation till within the laft fix years, the facrament had been 
 only once adminiftered. 
 
 Reach Cil-oran, the feat of the proprietor, Mr. Mac-neile, who en- 
 tertained ns with much politenefs. His houfe is well-fheltered, and 
 trees grow very vigoroufly in its neighborhood. There is fcarcely 
 an ifland, where vallies protected from winds, may not be found, in 
 which trees might be planted to great advantage. Afh and maple 
 would fucceed particularly well : and in many places the beft kinds 
 of willows would turn to good account, and produce a manufacture 
 of bafkets and hampers, articles our commercial towns have a great 
 demand for. 
 
 Rabbets abound here : about a hundred and twenty dozen of Animals. 
 their fkins are annually exported. 
 
 Bernacles appear here in vaft flocks in September, and retire the 
 latter end of April or beginning of May. Among the domeftic 
 fowls I obferved peacocks to thrive well in the farm at Oranfay. So 
 far north has this Indian bird been naturalized. 
 
 Neither frogs, toads nor vipers are found here ; or any kind of 
 ferpent, except the harmlefs blind-worm. 
 
 I met with no remarkable foffils. Black talc the mica Lamellata Fossils;. 
 martialis nigra of Cronjled, (eft. 95, is found here, both in large 
 detached flakes, and immerfed in indurated clay. Alfo rock Hone 
 formed of glimmer and quartz. An imperfect granite is not un- 
 frequent. 
 
 In the morning, walk down to the eaftern coaft of the ifland, to Jvly 8. 
 
 a creek guarded by the little rocky ifle ofOIamfay, where fmall veffels 
 may find fhelter. Find Mr. Thompfon plying off at a mile's diftance. 
 Go on board j and fail for Jona. The lofty mountains of Mull lay 
 
 N n 2 m 
 
 m
 
 2yS 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 in front : the caftern views were flay, Jura, Scarba, and the en. 
 trance of the gulph of Corryvrekan, beyond lies Lorn, and at a dif- 
 tance foars the high hill of Crouacban. 
 
 Steer to the North Weft -, but our courfe greatly delayed by 
 calms : take numbers of grey gurnards in all depths of water, and 
 find young herrings in their ftomachs. 
 
 Towards evening arrive within fight of Jona^ and a tremendous 
 chain of rocks, lying to the South of it, rendered more horrible by 
 the perpetual noife of breakers. Defer our entrance into the Sound 
 till day-light. 
 July q. About eight of the clock in the morning, very narrowly efcape 
 
 flriking on the rock Bonirevor, apparent at this time by the break- 
 ing of a wave : our mafter was at fome diftance in his boat, in fearch 
 of fea fowl, but alarmed with the danger of his veffel, was haflening 
 to its relief-, but the the tide conveyed us out of reach of the rock, 
 and faved him the trouble of landing us ; for the weather was fo 
 calm as to free us from any apprehenfions about our lives. After 
 Sound of Jona. tiding for three hours, anchor in the found of Jona, in three fathoms 
 water, on a white fandy bottom ; but the fafeft anchorage is on 
 the Eaft fide, between a little ifle and that of Mull : this found 
 is three miles long and one broad, mallow, and in fome parts 
 dry at the ebb of fpring tides : it is bounded on the Eaft by the 
 ifland of Mull-, on the Weft, .by that of Jena,, the moft celebrated of 
 the Hebrides. 
 
 Multitudes of gannets were now fifliing here : they precipitated 
 themfelves from a vaft height, plunged on their prey at left two fa- 
 thom deep, and took to the air again as foon as they emerged. 
 Their fenfe of feeing muft be exquifite ; but they are often deceived, 
 
 for
 
 HEBRIDES. ♦ 277 
 
 for Mr. Thotnpfon informed me, that he had frequently taken them by- 
 placing a herring on a hook, and finking it a fathom deep, which 
 the gannet plunges for and is taken. 
 
 The view of Jona was very picturefque : the Eaft fide, or that 
 which bounds the found, exhibited a beautiful variety ; an extent 
 of plain, a little elevated above the water,- and almoft covered with 
 the ruins of the facred buildings,, and with the remains of the old 
 town ftill inhabited. Beyond thefe the ifland rifes into little rocky 
 hills, with narrow verdant hollows between (for they merit not the 
 name of vallies) and numerous enough for every reclufe to take his 
 folitary walk, undifturbed by fociety. 
 
 The ifland belongs to the parifh of Rofs, in Mull; is three miles 
 long and one broad ; the Eaft fide moftly flat ; the middle rifes into 
 fmall hills ; the Weft fide very rude and rocky : the whole is a An- 
 gular mixture of rock and fertility. 
 
 The foil is a compound of fand and comminuted fea fliells, mixed Soil. 
 
 with black loam ;. is very favorable to the growth of bear, natural 
 clover, crowsfoot and daifies. It is in perpetual tillage, and is 
 ploughed thrice before the fowing : the crops at this time made a 
 promifing appearance, but the feed was committed to the ground Produce.. 
 
 at very different times ; fome, I think, about the beginning of May, 
 and fome not three weeks ago. Oats do not fuccecd here ; but 
 flax and potatoes come on very well. I am informed, that the 
 foil in Col, Tir-I, and North and South Uijl, is fimilar to that in 
 Jona. 
 
 The tenants here run-rig, and have the pafturage in common. It 
 fupports about a hundred and eight head of cattle, and about five 
 hundred fheep. There is no heath in this ifland : cattle unufed to 
 
 that
 
 27 8 A V O y A G E TO THE 
 
 *hat plant give bloody milk •, which is the cafe with the cattle of 
 Jona tranfported to Mull, where that vegetable abounds \ but the 
 cure is foon effected by giving them plenty of water. 
 
 Servants are paid here commonly with a fourth of the crop, grafs 
 for three or four cows, and a few fheep. 
 
 The number of inhabitants is about a hundred and fifty : the molt 
 ftupid and the moft lazy of all the iflanders ; yet many of them boaft 
 of their defcent from the companions of St. Columba. 
 
 Birds. A few of the more common birds frequent this ifland : wild geefe 
 
 breed here, and the young are often reared and tamed by the 
 natives. 
 
 Plants. The beautiful Sea-Buglofs makes the mores gay with its glaucous 
 
 leaves and purple flowers. The Eryngo, or fea-hoiiy, is frequent ; 
 and the fatal Belladonna is found here. 
 
 Fossils. The Granites durus rubefcens, the fame with the Egyptian, is 
 
 found in Nuns-ijle, and on the coaft of Mull : a Breccia quartzofa, of 
 a beautiful kind, is common j and the rocks to the South of the 
 bay of Martyrs is formed of the Swedi/h Trapp ? ufeful to glafs- 
 makers *. 
 N AME . Jona derives its name from a Hebrew word, fignifying a dove, in 
 
 allufion to the name of the great faint, Columba, the founder of its 
 St. Columba. fame. This holy man, inft.igat.ed by his zeal, left his native 
 country, Ireland, in the year 565, with the pious defign of preaching 
 the gofpel to the Picls. It appears that he left his native foil with 
 warm refentment, vowing never to make a fettlement within fight 
 of that hated ifland. He made his firft trial at Oranfay, and on 
 
 * JCronJitdy No. cclxvii. 
 
 finding
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 279 
 
 finding that place too near to Ireland, fucceeded to his wifh at Hy, 
 for that was the name of Jona, at the time of his arrival. He re- 
 peated here the experiment on feveral hills, erecting on each a heap 
 of ftones ; and that which he laft afcended is to this day called 
 Caman-cbul-reh-EiRiNN, or the eminence of the back turned to 
 Ireland. 
 
 Columba was foon diftinguifhed by the fanctity of his manners : a 
 miracle that he wrought fo operated on the Pittijh king, Bradeus, 
 that he immediately made a prefent of the little ifle to the faint. It 
 feems that his majefty had refufed Columba an audience ; and even 
 proceeded fo far as to order the palace gates to be fhut againft him ; 
 but the faint, by the power of his word, inftantly caufed them to fly 
 open. 
 
 As foon as he was in pofTefiion of Jona he founded a cell of 
 monks, borrowing his inftitutions from a certain oriental monaftic 
 order *. It is faid that the firft religious were canons regular, of 
 whom the founder was the firft abbot : and that his monks, till 
 the year 7 16,. differed from thofe of the church of Rome, both in 
 the obfervation of Eajler, and in the clerical tonfure. Columba 
 led here an exemplary life, and was highly refpected for the fanc- 
 tity of his manners for a confiderable number of years. He is 
 the firft on record who had the faculty of fecond-fight, for he told Second-Sight. 
 the victory of Aidan over the Pitts and Saxons on the very inftant it 
 happened. He had the honor of burying in his ifland, Convallus 
 and Kinnatil, two kings of Scotland, and of crowning a third. 
 At length, worn out with age, he died, in Jona, in the arms of 
 
 * Sir Roger T<wi/den's rife of monaftic ftates* 36. 
 
 his-
 
 280 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 his difciples ; was interred there, but (as the Irijh pretend) in 
 after-times tranflated to Dovm ; where, according to the epitaph, 
 his remains were depofited with thofe of St. Bridget and St. Patrk. 
 
 Hi tres in Duno tumulo tumulantur in uno j 
 Brigida, Patricias, atque Columba pius. 
 
 But this is totally denied by the Scots-, who affirm, that the 
 contrary is fhewn in a life of the faint, extracted out of the pope's 
 library, and tranflated out of the Latin into Erfe y by father CaU 
 o horan ; which decides, in favor of Jona, the momentous dif- 
 pute *. 
 
 After the death of St. Columba, the ifland received the name of 
 Y-columb-cill, or, the ifle of the cell of Columba. In procefs of 
 time the ifland itfelf was perfonified, and by a common blunder in 
 early times converted into a faint, and worfhipped under the title 
 of St. Columb-killa. 
 
 The religious continued unmolefted during two centuries : but 
 in the year 807 were attacked by the Danes, who with their ufual 
 barbarity put part of the monks to the fword, and obliged the 
 remainder, with their abbot Cellach, to feek fafety by flying from 
 their rage. The monaftery remained depopulated for feven years ; 
 but on the retreat of the Danes received a new order, being then 
 peopled by Cluniacs, who continued there till the diflblution, 
 when the revenues were united to the fee of Argyle. 
 Bay of Mar- Teok boat and landed on the fpot called the Bay of Martyrs : 
 
 the place where the bodies of thofe who were to be interred in 
 
 • M. S. in Advoc. Libr. 1693. 
 
 this
 
 HEBRIDES. 2 8i 
 
 thfs holy ground, were received, during the period of fuper- 
 ftition. 
 
 Walked about a quarter of a mile to the South, in order to fix 
 on a convenient fpot for pitching a rude tent, formed of oars and 
 fails, as our day refidence, during our flay on the ifland. 
 
 Obferve a little beyond, an oblong inclofure, bounded by a 
 ilone dike, called Clachnan Druinach, and fuppofed to have been 
 the burial place of the Druids, for bones of various fizes are 
 found there. I have no doubt but that Bruidifm was the original 
 religion of this place ; yet I fuppofe this to have been rather the 
 common cemetery of the people of the town, which lies almoft 
 clofe to the Bay of Martyrs. 
 
 Having fettled the bufinefs of our tent, return through the Town, 
 
 town, confifting at prefent of about fifty houfes, moftly very- 
 mean, thatched with ftraw of bear pulled up by the roots, and 
 bound tight on the roof with ropes made of heath. Some of 
 the houfes that lie a little beyond the reft feemed to have been 
 better conftru&ed than the others, and to have been the manfions 
 of the inhabitants when the place was in a flourifhing ftate, but 
 at prefent are in a very ruinous condition. 
 
 Vifit every place in the order that they lay from the village. Nvhnbryj 
 The firft was the ruin of the nunnery, filled with canonefles of 
 St. Augujline, and confecrated to St. Oran. They were permitted 
 to live in community for a confiderable time after the reforma- 
 tion, and wore a white gown; and above it a rotchet of fine 
 linnen *. 
 
 • Ktitb, 2?©. 
 
 O The
 
 2 g 2 A V O Y A G E to the 
 
 Its church. The church was fifty-eight feet by twenty: the roof of the eai'fc 
 
 end is entire, is a pretty vault made of very, thin {tones, bound to- 
 gether by four ribs meeting in the centre. The floor is covered 
 fome feet thick with cow-dung •, this place being at prefent the 
 common flicker for the cattle ; and the iflanders are too lazy to 
 remove this fine manure, the collection of a century, to enrich, 
 their grounds. 
 
 With much difficulty, by virtue of fair words,, and a bribe, 
 prevale on one of thei'e liftlefs fellows to remove a great quan- 
 Tomb. tity of this dung-hill ; and by that means once more expofe to 
 
 light the tomb of the laft priorefs. Her figure is cut on the face 
 of the ftone ; an angel on each fide fupports her head ; and above 
 them is a little plate and a comb. The priorefs occupies only one 
 half of the furface : the other is filled with the form of the virgin 
 Mary, with head crowned and mitred; the child in her arms;, 
 and, to denote her Queen of Heaven, a fun and moon appear 
 above. At her feet is this addrefs, from the priorefs : SanRa. 
 Maria or a -pro me. And round the lady is infcribed, Hie jacet 
 Domina Anna Donaldi Terleti * filia quondam Priorijfa de Jona 
 quae obiit ano m° d° xim ejus animam Altissimo commendamus. 
 
 M. Stuart, who fome time pad vifited this place, informed me,, 
 that at that time he obferved this fragment of another inicription :. 
 Hie jacet Mariota filia Johan : Lauchlani Domini de . . . . 
 
 Befides this place of fepulture, was another on the outfide, al- 
 lotted for the nuns; where, at a refpectable diftance from the vir- 
 tuous recluies, lies in folitude, a frail lifter. 
 
 • Or Charku 
 
 This
 
 H E B R I D E S. 285 
 
 This nunnery could never have been founded (as fome affert) in 
 the days of St. Cclumba, who was no admirer of the fair fex : in 
 fact he held them in fuch abhorrence, that he detefted all cattle 
 on their account, and would not permit a cow to come within 
 Tight of his facred walls ; becaufe, \Sfar am bi bo, Wdh bean, 
 'Sfar am bi bean, Wdh mallacha : " Where there is a cow, there 
 <l muft be a woman ; and where there is a woman, there muft be 
 " mifchief." 
 
 Advance from hence along a broad paved way, which is conti- 
 nued in a line from the nunnery to the cathedral : another branches 
 from it to the Bay of Martyrs : and a third narrower than the others, 
 points towards the hills. 
 
 On this road is a large and elegant crofs, called that of Macleane, 
 one of three hundred and fixty, that were (landing in this ifland 
 at the reformation*, but immediately after were almoft entirely 
 demoliihed by order of a provincial alTembly, held in the ifland. 
 It feems to have been cuftomary in Scotland for individuals to erect 
 -crofTes, probably in confequence of fome vow, or perhaps out of 
 a vain hope of perpetuating their memory. 
 
 Arrive at Reilig ourain, or the burying-place of Oran : a vaft Reilig oup.ain. 
 enclofure -, the great place of interment for the number of mo- 
 narchs who were depofited here; and for the potentates of every ifle, 
 and their lineage -, for all were ambitious of lying in this holy 
 fpot. The place is in a manner filled with grave-ftones, but fo 
 overgrown with weeds, efpecially with the commun butter-bur, 
 that very few are at prefent to be feen. 
 
 * Short Defer, ofjona, 1693. Advoc. Libr; M, S. 
 
 O o 2 I was
 
 284 AVOYAGEtothe 
 
 Tombs op the I was very defirous of viewing the tombs of the kings, def- 
 
 cribed by the Dean of the ifles, and from him by Buchanan : 
 the former fays *, that in his time there were three, built in form 
 of little chapels : on one was infcribed, Tumulus Regum Scotia-, 
 In this were depofited the remains of forty-eight Scottijh monarchs, 
 beginning with Fergus II. and ending with the famous Macbeth : 
 for his fucceflbr, Malcolm Canmore, decreed, for the future, Dum- 
 ferline to be the place of royal fepulture -J-. Of the Scottijh mo- 
 narchs interred in Jona, fixteen are pretended to be of the race of 
 Alpin y and are ftyled, Righrid Ailpeanaeh. 
 
 Fergus was the founder of this Maujoleum (Boethius calls it Ab- 
 batiaf) and not only directed, that it mould be the fepulchre of 
 his fucceflbrs, but alfo cauled an office to be compofed for the 
 funeral ceremony. 
 
 The next was infcribed, Tumulus Regum Hibernia, containing 
 four Irijh monarchs ; and the third, Tumulus Regum Norwegia, 
 containing eight Norwegian princes, or more probably vice-roys, 
 of the Hebrides, while they were fubject to that crown. 
 
 That fo many crowned heads, from different nations, mould 
 prefer this as the place of their interment, is faid to have been 
 owing to an antient prophecy : 
 
 Seacbd bliadna roimWn bhraa 
 Thig tnuir thar Eirin re aon tra?' 
 St bar Ile ghuirm gblais 
 Acb Snamhaidb I cholum dairich. 
 
 Which is to this effect : " Seven years before the end of the 
 
 • p. 19. % Jtcetbiuttlib* vii. p. 122. J, lib. vii. p. 119.. 
 
 world, 
 
 u
 
 HEBRIDES. 285 
 
 <c world, a deluge fhall drown the nations : the fea, at one tide, 
 " fhall cover Ireland, and the green-headed Hay ; but Columba's 
 M ifle fhall fwim above the flood." 
 
 But of thefe celebrated tombs we could difcover nothing more 
 than certain flight remains, that were built in a ridged form, and 
 arched within •, but the infcriptions were loft. Thefe are called 
 Jomaire nan righ, or, The ridge of the kings. Among thefe 
 ftones were found two with galic infcriptions, and the form of a 
 crofs carved on each : the words on one were, Cros Dcmhail fat- 
 'afich, or, The crofs of Donald Long-Jhanks : the other fignified 
 the crofs of Urchvine Guin. The letters were thofe of the moft 
 antient Irijh alphabet, exhibited in Valiancy's Irijh grammar. 
 
 Among the fame ftones is alfo the following: Hicjacent qua- 
 tuor Priores de Hy, Johannes,. Hugenius, Patricius-, in decretis 
 elim Bacularius qui obiit an. Dom. millefs mo quingenteffimo. 
 
 I am indebted to Mr. Stuart for thefe three infcriptions, which he « 
 met with in his former voyage ; arriving before the growth of the 
 all-covering weeds. Mr. Frazier, fon to the Dean of the ifles, in- 
 fomed Mr. Sacheverel governor of the ifle of Man, who vifited 
 Jona in 1688, that his father had collected there three hundred 
 infcriptions, and prefented them to the Earl of Argyle \ which were 
 afterwards loft in the troubles of the family. 
 
 The chapel of St. Oran ftands in this fpace, which legend re- St. Oran, 
 ports to have been the firft building attempted by St. Columba : 
 by the working of fome evil fpirit, the walls fell down as faft as 
 they were built up. 
 
 After fome confutation it was pronounced, that they never 
 would be permanent till a human victim was buried alive: Oran, 
 
 a com-
 
 286 A YOYAGE to the 
 
 a companion of the faint, generoufly offered himfelf, and was in- 
 terred accordingly : at the end of three days St. Columba had the 
 curiofity to take a 'farewell look at his old friend, and caufed the 
 earth to be removed. To the furprize of all beholders, Oran ftarted 
 np, and began to reveal the fecrets of his priibn-houie \ and par- 
 ticularly declared, that all that had been faid of hell was a mere 
 joke. This dangerous impiety fo mocked Columba, that, with 
 ^reat policy, he initantly ordered the earth to be flung in again : 
 poor Oran was overwhelmed, and an end for ever put to his 
 prating. His grave is near the door, diftinguifhed only by a 
 plain red Hone. 
 
 Boethius * gives us reafon to fuppofe, before this period, Jona 
 to have been the habitation of the iveird filers and Cacod<emons - y 
 for King Natholocus, like Saul of old, confulted in this ifland an 
 old witch, of uncommon fame : no wonder, therefore, that the 
 prince of darknefs mould be interefted in the overthrow of edi- 
 fices that were to put an end to his influence. 
 Tombs. In Oran\ chapel are feveral tombs, and near it many more: within, 
 
 beneath a-recefs formed with three neat pointed arches, is a tomb- 
 flone with a (hip and feveral ornaments. I forget whether the fails 
 were furled : in that cafe the deceafed was defcended from the an- 
 tient kings of Man of the Norwegian f race, who ufed thofe arms. 
 
 Near the South end is the tomb of the abbot Mac-kinnon's fa- 
 ther, inlcribed, Haec eft crux Lauchlani Mc. Fingon et ejus filii 
 Johannis Abbatis de Hy. fa£la an. Dom. m 0+ * cccclxxxix. 
 
 Another of Macdonald of Hay and Cantyre, commonly called 
 
 * lib. vi. p. go. f Do&or Macplur/on. 
 
 Jwus
 
 HEBRIDES. 287 
 
 Xtrnus, or Angus oig, the chief of the name. He was a ftroncr friend 
 to Robert Bruce, and was with him at the battle of Bannockbourne. 
 His infcription is, Hicjacet corpus Angufii filii Domini Angufti Mc. 
 Domhnillde Hay. 
 
 In another place lies tfte grave-ftone of Ailean Nan Sop, a Ceathar- 
 mrch, or head of a party, or the name of Macleane j from whom is 
 defcended the family of Torloijg, The ftone is ornamented with 
 carving and a fhip. 
 
 A Macleane, of Col, appears in armour, with a fword in his left 
 hand. A Macleane, of Duart, with armour, fhield and two-handed 
 fword. And a third, of the fame name of the family of Loch- 
 buy: his right hand grafps a piftol, his left a fword. Befides 
 thefe, are numbers of other antient heroes, whole very names have 
 perifhed, and they deprived of their expected, glory : their lives 
 were, like^the path of an arrow, elofed up and loft as foon-as paft - 
 and probably in thofe times of barbarifm, as fatal to their fellow- 
 creatures. 
 
 About feventy feet South of the chapel is a red unpoliihed ftone; 
 beneath which lies a namelefs King of France, But the memory of 
 the famous old doctor of Mull has had a better fate, and is preferved 
 in thefe words : Hicjacet Johannes Betonus Maclenorum famili<e, 
 medicus, qui mortuus eft 19 Novembris 1657. Ait. 6%. Donaldus 
 Betonus fecit. 1674, 
 
 Ecce cadit jaculo vi&ricis mortis iniquae; 
 Qui toties alios folverat ipfemalis, 
 Soli Deo Gloria. 
 
 A little North- Weft of the door is the pedeftal of a crofs : on 
 
 it
 
 a gg A VOYAGE to the 
 
 it arc certain ftones, that feem to have been the fupports of a tomb. 
 Numbers who vifit this ifland (I fuppofe the Elect impatient for 
 the confirmation of all things) think it incumbent on them to turn 
 each of thefe thrice round, according to the courfe of the fun. 
 They are called Clacha-brath j for it is thought that the brath^ or 
 end of the world, will not arrive till the' Hone on which they 
 (rand is worn through. Originally, fays Mr. Sacbeverel, here were 
 three noble globes, of white marble, placed on three ftone balbns, 
 and thefe were turned round -, but the fynod ordered them, and fixty 
 croffes, to be thrown into the fea. The prefent ftones are probably 
 fubftituted in place of thefe globes. 
 Sanctvary. The precinct of thefe tombs was held facred, and enjoyed the 
 
 privileges of a Girth, or fanctuary *. Thefe places of retreat were 
 by the antient Scotch law, not to fhelter indiscriminately every offen- 
 der as was the cafe in more bigotted times in catholic countries : for 
 here all atrocious criminals were excluded ; and only the unfortu- 
 nate delinquent, or the penitent finner fhielded from the inftant 
 ftroke of rigorous juftice. The laws are penned with fuch humanity 
 and good fenfe, that the reader cannot be difpleafed with feeing 
 them in their native fimplicity f. 
 
 1 Gif any fleis to Halie Kirk moved with repentance confefTes 
 ' there that he heavily finned, and for the love of God is come to 
 
 * the houfe of God for fafetie of himfelf, he fall nocht tine life nor 
 
 * limme bot quhat he has taken frae anie man he fall reftore fame- 
 
 * ikill to him, and fall fatisfie the King according to the law of the 
 
 * countrie. 
 
 • For dun, lib. II. c.io. f From the Rtgiatn majefiatem. 
 
 ■ And
 
 HEBRIDES. 2 8 9 
 
 And fwa fall fwere upon the halie evangell that there- after 
 
 * he fall never commit reif nor theift. Alex. 11. c. 6. 
 
 If ane manflayer takes himfelf to the immunitie of the Kirk, he 
 
 * fould be admoniffed and required to come forth and prefent himfelf 
 
 * to the law 5 to know gif the flauchter was committed be forthocht 
 6 felon ie or murther. 
 
 And gif he be admoniffed, and will not come furth ; fra that 
 
 6 time furth in all time thereafter he fal be banimed and exiled as 
 
 c ane committer of murther and forethocht felonie ; keep and re- 
 
 fervand to him the immunitie of the kirk to the whiik he take 
 
 * himfelf.' Rob. 11. c. 9. 
 
 "Particular care was alfo taken that they mould receive no injury 
 during their retreat : penalties were enacted for even ftriking ; but 
 for the murder of any, ' The King was to have from the flayer 
 
 * twentye nine kyes and ane zoung kow ; and the offender was alfo 
 c to afiithe to the friends of the defunct conforme to the laws of the 
 
 * cuntrie. Wil. c. 5. 
 
 The cathedral lies a little to the north of this inclofure : is in The cathedral. 
 the form of a crofs. The length from eafl to weft is a hundred and 
 fifteen feet. The breadth twenty-three. The length of the tran- 
 fept feventy. Over the centre is a handfome tower : on each of 
 which is a window with ftone work of different forms in every 
 one. 
 
 On the fouth fide of the chancel are fome Gothic arches fupported 
 
 by pillars, nine feet eight inches high, including the capitals ; 
 
 "and eight feet nine inches in circumference. The capitals are quite 
 
 peculiar •, carved round with various fuperflitious figures, among 
 
 others is an angel weighing of fouls. 
 
 Pp The
 
 2 9 o AVOYAGEtothe 
 
 Altar, The altar was of white marble veined with grey, and is vulgarly 
 
 fuppofed to have reached from fide to fide of the chancel : but Mr. 
 Sacbeverei*, who faw it when almoft entire, allures us, that the fize 
 way fix feet by four. 
 
 The demolition of this ftone was owing to the belief of the fuper- 
 ftitious ; who were of .opinion, that a piece of it conveyed to the 
 poifeflbr fuccefs in whatever he undertook. A very fmall portion 
 is now left •, and even that we contributed to diminifh. 
 
 Near the altar is the tomb of the abbot Mac-kinnon. His 
 figure lies recumbent, with this infcription round the margin, Hie 
 facet Johannes Mac-Fingone abbas de Hy, qui obiit anno Domini 
 MilleJJimo quingentejJimo y cujus ariwite -proptietur Deus altiffimus. 
 Amen. 
 
 On the other fide is the tomb and figure of Abbot Kenneth. 
 
 On the floor is the effigy of an armed knight, with a whilk by his 
 fide, as if he juft had returned from the feaft of fhells in the hall of 
 FingaU 
 
 Among thefe. funereal fubjects, the interment (a few years ago) of 
 a female remarkable for her lineage muft not be omitted. She was 
 Clam an Oister. a direct defcendant, and the laft of the Clan an oifier^ ojliarii, or door- 
 keepers to the monailery. The firft of the family came over with 
 Columba, but falling under his difpleafure, it was decreed on the im- 
 precation of this irritable faint, that never more than five of his clan 
 mould exifb at one time -, and in confequence when a fixth was 
 born, one of the five was to look for death. This, report fays, al- 
 way happened till the period that the race was extinguiflied in this 
 woman. 
 
 * P. 132. 
 
 It
 
 XXIII. 
 
 pli* 
 
 ^ : ^v
 
 • '///.>/</<■ p/ ///<- r. 
 
 ITHEDJijiL i'/ JOTLd, 
 
 (
 
 2^4 
 
 Ie ^/&"J < } / hvo r/ ///<- /'?///u'j . 
 
 #UL4~~L
 
 I. <///>/ ///ai\-A //////>//.< , Aw//. U •'//<■• '////.>. Jll .)//.• /I, ///■/<>/•. W, ////>////■/,■ /■<•////,/ ///,■ (',////'/,//• *■/ /wo d ///<■ /'/'///;>. 
 
 
 #UKg* —4
 
 H E BL R I D E S. 
 
 39] 
 
 It is difficult to fay when the prefent church was built : if we 
 may credit Boethius, it was rebuilt by Malduinus, in the feventh 
 century, out of the ruins of the former. But the prefenn Struc- 
 ture is far too magnificent for that age. Molt of the walls are built 
 with red granite from the Nuns ijle in the found. 
 
 From the ibuth eaft corner are two parallel walls about twelve 
 feet high, and ten feet diftant from each other. At prefent they 
 are called Dorus tragh, or the door to the more: are fuppofed to have 
 been continued from the cathedral to the fea, to have been roofed, 
 and to have formed a covered gallery the whole way. 
 
 In the church-yard is a fine crofs, fourteen feet high, two feet two 
 inches broad, and ten inches thick, made of a fingle piece of red gra- 
 nite. The pedefial is three feet high. 
 
 Near the fouth eaft end is Mary's chapel. Befides this, we are 
 informed, that there were feveral others founded by the Scottijh mon- 
 archs, and the Reguli of the ifles *. 
 
 The monaftery lies behind the cathedral. It is in a mofl ruinous Monastery. 
 (late, a final 1 remnant of a cloifter is left. In a corner are fome 
 black ftones, held fo facred, but for what reafon I am igno- 
 rant, that it was cuftomary to fvvear by them : perhaps from 
 their being neighbors to the tutelar faint, whofe grave is almoft 
 adjacent. 
 
 Boethius-\ gives this monaftery an earlier antiquity than perhaps 
 it can juftly clame. He fays, that after the defeat of the Scots, 
 
 * Buchanan, lib. I. c. 37. Dean of the ifles, 19. 
 f Lib.vi. p. 108, 109. 
 
 P p 2 U
 
 292 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 at the battle of Munda, A. D. 379 : the furvivors with all religious 
 fled to this ifland •, and were the original founders of this houfe. 
 But the account given by the venerable Bede is much more pro- 
 bable, that St. Columba was the original founder, as has been before 
 related. 
 Rbvenues. This ifle, fays the Dean, hes brine richlie Botat by the Scotch 
 
 kings : And mentions feveral little iflands that belonged to it, 
 which he calls Soa, Naban, Moroan, Reringe, Inch Kenzie, Eorfay, and 
 Kannay. If thefe had been the endowments, they would never ferve 
 to lead the religious into the temptation of luxury : but they were 
 in poflefiion of a confiderable number of churches and chapels in 
 Galway, with large eftates annexed, all which were taken from them, 
 and granted to the canons of Holyrood houfe by William I. between 
 the years 1 1 72 and 1180*. 
 
 Columba was the firft abbot : he and his fucceflbrs maintained 
 a jurifdiction over all the other monafteries that branched from 
 this ; and over all the monks of this abby that exercifed the 
 prieftly or even epifcopal function in other places. One of the in- 
 ftitutes of Loyola feems here to have been very early eftabliihed, 
 for the eleves of this houfe feem not to think themfelves freed 
 from their vow of obedience to the abbot of Jona. Bede f fpeaks 
 of the Angular pre-eminence, and fays that the ifland always had 
 
 * Sir James DalrymplSs Coll. 271. 272. 
 
 -f Habere autem folet ipfa infula rettorem Temper Abbatem Prefbyterum, 
 cujus juri et omnis Provincia et ipfi etiam Epifcopi ordine inufitato debeant 
 eJl'e fubjefti. Lib. III. c. 4, 
 
 for
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 293 
 
 for a governor an Abbot-Prefbyter, whofe power (by a very un- 
 common rule) not only every province, but even the biihops 
 themfdves, obeyed. From this account, the enemies to epifco- 
 pacy have inferred, that the rank of bifhop was a novelty, intro- 
 duced into the church in corrupt times ; and the authority they 
 affumed was an errant ufurpation, fince a fimple abbot for fo con- 
 fiderable a fpace was permitted to have the fuperiority. In anfvver 
 to this, archbifhop UJher * advances, that the power of the abbot of 
 Jona was only local ; and extended only to the bimop who refided 
 there : for after the conquefl of the ifle of Man by the Englijh, and 
 the diviiion of the fee after that event, the bifhop of the ifles made 
 Jona his- refidence, which before was in Man. But notwithstanding 
 this, the venerable Bede leems to be a ftronger authority, than the 
 Uljhr annals quoted by the archbifhop, which pretend no more 
 than that a bifhop had always refided in Jona, without even an 
 attempt to refute the pofitive affertion of the moft refpectable 
 author we have (relating to church matters) in thole primitive 
 times. 
 
 North of the monaftery are the remains of the bifhop's houfe : Bishop's house. 1 
 the refidence of the iatfliops of the ifles after the ifle of Man was 
 feparated from them.- This event happened in the time of Edward I. 
 On their arrival the abbots permitted to them the uk of their 
 church, tor they never had a cathedral of their own, except that in 
 the ifle of Man. During the time of the Norwegian reign, whidi 
 lafted near two hundred years, the bifhops were chofen without re- 
 fped of country, for we find French, Norwegian, Englijh, and Scotch 
 
 * De Brit. Ecclef. Primord. cap. xv. p. 701. 
 
 among
 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 among the prelates, and they were generally, but not always, con- 
 fecrated at Drontheim. Even after the cefiion of the Ebud<e to Scot- 
 land by Magnus, the patronage of this bifhoprick was by treaty re- 
 ferred to the archbifhop of Drontbeim* \ This fee was endowed withf 
 thirteen iQands •, but ibme of them were forced from them by the 
 tyranny of ibme of the little chieftains ; thus for example, Rafa, as 
 the honeil Dean fays, was perteining to Mac-Gyllychallan by the 
 fword, and to the bifhopof the ides by heritage. 
 Title of Sodor. The title of thefe prelates, during the conjunction of Man and 
 Sodor, had been univerfally miftaken, till the explications of that 
 moft ingenious writer, Dr. Macpherfon%: it was always fuppofed 
 to have been derived from Soder, an imaginary town, either in 
 Man or in Jona : whofe derivation was taken from the Greek 
 Soter or Saviour. During the time that the Norwegians were in 
 poffefilon of the ifles, they divided them into two parts : the 
 northern, which comprehended all that lay to the North of the 
 point of Arnamurchan, and were called the Nordereys, from Nor- 
 der North, and ey an ifland. And the Sudereys took in thofe 
 that lay to the South of that promontory. This was only a ci- 
 vil divifion, for the fake of governing thefe fcattered dominions 
 with more facility - 9 for a feparate viceroy was lent to each, but 
 both were fubjeft to the fame jurifdidion civil and ecclefiaftical. 
 But as the Sudereys was the moft important, that had the honor 
 
 * Sir David Dalrymple's Annals Scotland, 178. 
 
 + The Dean. 
 
 J P. 282, and Torf<eui t in many parts of his hiflory of the Orknies. 
 
 Of
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 of giving name to the biflioprick, and the ifle of Man retained 
 both titles, like as England unites that of France^ notwithstanding 
 many centuries have elapfed fince our rights to the now ufurped 
 titles are loft. 
 
 Proceed on our walk. To the weft of the convent is the ab- 
 bot's mount, overlooking the whole. Beneath feem to have been 
 the gardens, once well cultivated, for we are told that the monks 
 tranfplanted from other places, herbs both efculent and medicinal. 
 
 Beyond the mount are the ruins of a kiln, and a granary : and 
 near it, was the mill. The lake or pool that ferved it lay behind ; 
 is now drained, and is the turbery, the fuel of the natives : it 
 appears to have been once divided, for along the middle runs a 
 raifed way, pointing to the hills. They neglect at prelent the 
 conveniency of a mill, and ufe only querns. 
 
 North from the granary extends a narrow flat, with a double dike 
 and fofs on one fide, and a fingle dike on the other. At the end is a 
 fquare containing a cairn and furrounded v/ith a ftone dike. This 
 is. called a burial place: it muft have been in very early times 
 cotemporary with other cairns^ perhaps in the days of Druidifm \ 
 for bilhop Pocock mentions, that he had feen two ftones (even 
 feet high,, with a third laid acrofs on their tops, an evident Crcm- 
 leh : he alfo adds, that the Irijh name of the ifland was Inijh Dru- 
 nif/3 -, which agrees with the account I have fomewhere read, that 
 Jona had been the feat of Druids expelled by Columba^ who found 
 them there. 
 
 Before I quit this height, I muft obferve, that the whole of 
 their religious buildings were covered on the north fide by dikes, 
 
 as 
 
 295
 
 2q5 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 as a protection from the northern invaders, who paid little regard 
 to the fanctity of their characters. 
 
 The public was greatly interefted in the prefervation of this 
 place, for it was the repofitory of mod of the ant it Scotch re- 
 cords*. The library here muft alfo have been invaluable, if we 
 can depend upon Bcethius, who afferts, that Fergus tl • II. aflift- 
 Library. ing Alaric the Goth, in the facking of Rome, brought away as 
 
 fhare of the plunder, a cheft of books, which he preiented to the 
 monaftery of Jona. Mneas Sylvius (afterwards Pope Pius II. ] in- 
 tended, when he was in Scotland, to have vifited the library in 
 fearch of the loft books of Livjf, but was prevented by the death 
 of the King, James I. A fmall parcel of them were in 1525 
 brought to Aberdeen -f-, and great pains were taken to unfold 
 them, but through age and the tendernefs of the parchment, 
 little could be read •, but from what the learned were able to 
 make out, the work appeared by the ftyle to have rather been 
 a fragment of Sallujl than of Livy. Eut the regifter and records 
 of the ifland, all written on parchment, and probably other more 
 antique and valuable remains, were all deftroyed by that worft 
 than Gothic fynod J, which at the reformation declared war againit 
 all fcience. 
 
 * Vide Mac-kenzie, Stillingfleet> Lluyd. 
 
 f Boetbius, lib. vii. p. 1 14. Paulus Jcvius, quoted by UJher. Br. Eccl. 597, 
 
 I am informed that numbers of the records of the Hebrides were prefei ved at 
 Drotitbeim till they were deftroyed by the great fire which happened in that city 
 either in the laft, or prefent century. 
 
 X M. S. Advocates Library. 
 
 At
 
 H E B R I D E S. 297 
 
 At prefent, this once celebrated feat of learning is deftitute 
 of even a fchool-mafter ; and this feminary of holy men wants 
 even a minifter to afiift them in the common duties of relic-ion. 
 
 Crofs the ifland over a moll fertile elevated tract to the S. Weft July io. 
 
 fide, to vifit the landing place of St. Columba; a fmail bay, with Bay of St. 
 a pebbly beach, mixed with variety of pretty (tones, fucli as vio- 
 let-colored Quartz, Nephritic (tones, and fragments of porphyry, 
 granite and Zceblitz marble : a vaft tract near this place was co- 
 vered with heaps of (tones, of unequal fizes : thefe, as is faid 5 
 were the penances of monks who were to raife heaps of dimenfions 
 equal to their crimes : and to judge by fome, it is no breach of 
 charity to think there were among them enormous finners. 
 
 On one fide is (hewn an oblong heap of earth, the fuppofed 
 fize of the veflfel that tranfported St. Colnmba and his twelve dif- 
 ciples from Ireland to this ifland. 
 
 On my return faw, on the right hand, on a fmall hill, a fmall 
 circle of (tones, and a little cairn in the middle, evidently druidi- 
 cal, but called the hill of the angels, Cnoc nar-aimgeal ; from a tra- Hill of Angels. 
 dition that the holy man had there a conference with thofe celeftial 
 beings foon after his arrival. Bilhop Pocock informed me, that the 
 natives were accuftomed to bring their horfes to this circle at the 
 fea(t of St. Michael, and to courfe round it. I conjecture that 
 this ufage originated from the cultom of bleffing the horfes in the 
 days of iuperitition, when the pried and the holy-water pot were 
 cah^d in : but in latter times the horfes are (till aifembled, but 
 the reafon forgotten. 
 
 The traveller muft not neglect to afcend the hill of Dun-ii ; 
 from whofe fummit is a mo(t picturefque view of the long chain 
 
 Q.q of
 
 2 9 3 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 of little iflands, neighbors to this ; of the long low ifles of Col 
 and Tir-I to the Weft ; and the vaft height of Rum and Skie to- 
 the North. 
 
 At eight of the clock in the morning, with the firft fair wind 
 we yet had, fet fail for the found : the view of Jona, its cluftered ; 
 July ii. town, the great ruins, and the fertility of the ground, were fine 
 
 contrafts, in our paffage to the red granite rocks of the barren.. 
 
 Mull. 
 
 Loch-Screlan, in Mull, foon opens to our view. After pafling 
 a cape, placed in our maps far too projeflingly, fee Loch-in-a^ 
 Gaal; a deep bay, with the ifles of Uha and Gometra in it3< 
 mouth. 
 
 On the Weft appears the beautiful groupe of the Treajhumjh 
 ifles*. Neareft lies Staffa, a new giant's caufeway, rifing amidft 
 the waves ; but with columns of double the height of that in Ire- 
 Staffa. land; glofly and reiplendent, from the beams of the Eaftern fun. 
 
 Their greateft height was at the Southern point of the ifle, of 
 which they feemed the fupport. They decreafed in height in pro- 
 portion as they advanced along that face of Staffa oppofed to us, 
 or the Eaftern fide ; at length appeared loft in the formlefs ftrata : 
 and the reft of the ifland that appeared to us was formed of flopes 
 to the water edge, or of rude but not lofty precipices. Over 
 part of the ifle, on the Weftern fide, was plainly to be feen a vaft 
 precipice, feemingly columnar, like the preceding. I wifhed to 
 make a nearer approach, but the prudence of Mr. Thompfon, who 
 
 • Thefe are moft erroneoufly placed in the maps, a. very conJiderable distance 
 too far to the. North. 
 
 was
 
 HEBRIDES, s 99 
 
 was unwilling to venture in thefe rocky feas, prevented my far> 
 ther fearch of this wondrous ifle : I could do no more than caufe 
 an accurate view to be taken of its Eaftern fide, and of thofe of 
 the other picturefque iflands then in fight. But it is a great con- 
 folation to me, that I am able to lay before the public a moft ac- 
 curate account communicated to me through the friendfhip of Mr, 
 Banks. 
 
 ACCOUNT of STAFFA, 
 
 b y 
 
 JOSEPH BANKS, Efq; 
 
 " In the found of Mull we came to anchor, on the Morvern fide, August 12* 
 oppofite to a gentleman's houfe, called Drumnen : the owner of it, 
 Mr. Macleane, having found out who we were, very cordially 
 afked us aihore : we accepted his invitation, and arrived at his 
 houfe j where we met an Englijh gentleman, Mr. Leach *, who no 
 fooner faw us than he told us, that about nine leagues from us 
 was an ifland where he believed no one even in the highlands had 
 been -j-, on which were pillars like thofe of the Giant' s-Caufeway : 
 
 * I cannot but exprefs the obligations I have to this gentleman for his very kind 
 intentions of informing me of this matchlefs curiofity ; for I am informed that he 
 purfued me in a boat for two miles, to acquaint me with what he had obferved : 
 but, unfortunately for me, we out-failed his liberal intention. 
 
 f When I lay in the found of Jotia, two gentlemen, from the ifle of Mull, and 
 whofe fettlements were there, feemed to know nothing of this place j at left they 
 never mentioned it as any thing wonderful. 
 
 Q^q 2 this
 
 3 oo 
 
 A V O Y A G E to the 
 
 this was a great object to me who had wifti'd to have feen the 
 caufeway itfelf, would time have allowed : I therefore refolved to 
 proceed directly, efpecially as it was juft in the way to the C^ 
 lumb-kill; accordingly having put up two days provifions, and 
 my little tent, we put off in the boat about one o'clock for our 
 intended voyage, having ordered the fhip to wait for us in Tobir* 
 more, a very fine harbour on the Mull fide. 
 
 " At nine o'clock, after a tedious pafifage, having had not a 
 breath of wind, we arrived, under the direction of Mr. Mc. Leane's 
 fon, and Mr. Leach. It was too dark to fee any thing, fo we 
 carried our tent and baggage. near the only houfe upon the ifland., 
 and began to cook our flippers, in order to be prepared for the 
 earlieft dawn, to enjoy that which from the converfation of the 
 gentleman we had now raifed the higheft expectations of. 
 
 " The impatience which every body felt to fee the wonders we 
 had heard fo largely defcribed, prevented our morning's reft ; 
 every one was up and in motion before the break of day, and 
 with the firft light arrived at the S. W. part of the ifland, the 
 feat of the moft remarkable pillars ; where we no fooner arrived 
 than we were flruck with a fcene of magnificence which exceeded . 
 our expectations, though formed, as we, thought, upon the mod; 
 fanguine foundations: the whole of that end of the ifland fup- 
 ported by ranges of natural pillars, .moftly above 50 feet high, . 
 Handing in natural colonnades, according as the bays or points of 
 land formed themfelves ; upon a firm bans of folid unformed 
 rock, above thefe, the ft rat urn which reaches to the foil or fur- 
 face of the ifland, varied in thicknefs, as the ifland itfelf formed 
 into hills or vallies ; each hill, which hung over the columns be- 
 low* ,
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 301 
 
 low, forming an ample pediment; fbme of thefe above 60 feet 
 in thicknefs, from the bale to the point, formed by the Hoping of 
 the hill on each fide, almoft into the fhape of thofe ufed in archi- 
 tecture. 
 
 " Compared to this what are the cathedrals or the palaces built 
 by men ! mere models or playthings, imitations as diminutive as 
 his works will always be when compared to thofe of nature. 
 Where is now the boaft of the architect ! regularity the only part 
 in which he fancied himfelf to exceed his miftrefs, Nature, is here 
 found in her poffefXion, and here it has been for ages undefcribed*. 
 Is not this the fchool where the art was originally ftudied, and 
 what has been added to this by the whole Grecian fchool ? a ca- 
 pital to ornament the column of nature, of which they could ex- 
 ecute only a model ; and for that very capital they were obliged 
 to a bufh of Acanthus : how amply does nature repay thofe who 
 fludy her wonderful works ! 
 
 ' With our minds full of fuch reflections we proceeded along the 
 fhore, treading upon another Giant's Caufeway, every ftone being 
 regularly formed into a certain number of fides and angles, 'till 
 in a fhort time we arrived at the mouth of a cave, the moft mag- 
 nificent, I fuppofe, that has ever been defcribed by travellers. 
 
 " The mind can hardly form an idea more magnificent than fuch Cave of Fikgal.. 
 a fpace, fupported on each fide by ranges of columns; and roofed 
 
 * Staffa is taken notice of 'by Buchanan, but in the flighted: manner ; and among 
 the thoufands who have navigated thefe feas, none have paid the left attention to its 
 grand and flriking charafteriftic, till this prefent year. 
 
 This ifland is the property of Mr. lauchlan Mac-Quaire, of Ufoa, and is now to 
 bejdifpofed of, 
 
 by.
 
 5 cx ' A VOYAGE to tue 
 
 by the bottoms of thofe, which have been broke off in order to 
 form it ; between the angles of which a yellow flalagmitic matter 
 has exuded, which ferves to define the angles precifely •, and at the 
 fame time vary the color with a great deal of elegance, and to 
 render it (till more agreeable, the whole is lighted from without -, 
 fo that the fartheft extremity is very plainly feen from without, 
 and the air within being agitated by the flux and reflux of the tides, 
 is perfectly dry and wholefome, free entirely from the dump vapours 
 with which natural caverns in general abound. 
 
 " We afked the name of it. Said our guide, the cave of Fhinn ; 
 what is Fhinn? faid we. Fhinn Mac Coul, whom the tranflator of 
 Qffian's works has called Fingal. How fortunate that in this cave 
 we fhould meet with the remembrance of that chief, whofeex'flence, 
 as well as that of the whole Epic poem is almoft doubted in England. 
 
 " Enough for the beauties of Staffa, I fhall now proceed to de- 
 fcribe it and its productions more philofophically : 
 
 " The little ifland of Staffa lies on the weft coaft of Mull, 
 about three leagues N. E. from Jena, or the Columb Kill: its 
 greater!: length is about an EngliJJj mile, and its breadth about 
 half a one. On the weft fide of the ifle is a fmall bay, where 
 boats generally land : a little to the fouthward of which the firft 
 appearance of pillars are to be obferved ; they are fmall, and in- 
 ftead of being placed upright, lie down on their fides, each form- 
 ing a fegment of a circle : from thence you pafs a fmall cave, 
 above which, the pillars now grown a little larger, are inclining 
 in all directions : in one place in particular a fmall mafs of them 
 very much refemble the ribs of a fhip * : from hence having 
 
 patted 
 
 * The Giant's Caufewaj has its bending pillars j but I imagine them to be very 
 
 different
 
 
 
 N 
 
 «J 
 
 K3 
 
 fe 
 
 p 

 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 303 
 
 patted the cave, which if it is not low water, you mull do in a 
 boat, you come to the firft ranges of pillars, which are ftill not 
 above half as large as thofe a little beyond. Over-againft this place 
 is a fmall ifland, called in Erfe, Boo-JJja-la or more properly Buacha- n IsLE op 
 ilk, or the herdfman, feparated from the main, by a channel not 
 many fathoms wide ; this whole ifland is compofed of pillars with- 
 out any ftratum above them ; they are ftill fmall, but by much the 
 neateft formed of any about the place. 
 
 "The firft divifion of the ifland, for at high water it is di- 
 vided intn two, makes a kind of a cone, the pillars conver°-in<y 
 together towards the centre : on the other, they are in creneral 
 laid down fiat, and in the front next to the main, you fee how 
 beautifully they are packed together ; their ends coming out 
 fquare with the bank which they form : all thefe have their tranf- 
 verfe fe&ions exact, and their furfaces fmooth, which is by no 
 means the cafe with the large ones, which are cracked in all di- 
 rections. I much queftion however, if any. one of this whole 
 ifland of Buachaille is two feet in diameter. 
 
 The main ifland oppofed to Boo-foa-la and farther towards 
 the N. W. is fupported by ranges of pillars pretty erect, and 
 tho' not tall, (as they are not uncovered to the bafe) of laroe dia- 
 mettrs-; and at their feet is an irregular pavement, made by the 
 upper fides of fuch as have been broken off, which extends as far 
 under water as the eye can reach. Here the forms of the pillars 
 
 different from thefe. Thofe I faw were erecl, and ran along the face of a high cliff, 
 bent ftrangely in their middle, as if unable, at their original formation, while 
 ia>a faft ftate, to. fupport the mafs of incumbent earth that preffed on them. 
 
 are.
 
 304 
 
 No. i. 
 
 4 fides diarr 
 
 1. I ft. 
 
 5 in. 
 
 
 
 Ft. 
 
 In. 
 
 
 
 Side i 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 i 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 • 4 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 are apparent ; thefe are of three, four, five, fix, and feven fides ; but 
 the numbers of five and fix are by much the moft prevalent. The 
 larcreft I meafured was of feven •> it was four feet five inches in dia- 
 meter. I fiiall <*ive the meafurement of its fides, and thofe of fome 
 other forms which I met with : 
 
 No. 2. 5 fides diam. 2 ft. ic in. 
 
 1 I 10 
 
 2 I IO 
 
 3 i 5 
 
 4 t 7t 
 
 5 «. 8 
 
 No. 3. 6 fides diam. 3 ft. 6 in. No. 4. 7 fides diam. 4 ft. 5 in." 
 
 1 o 10 1 2 10 
 
 222 224 
 
 322 3 1 10 
 
 4 1 11 420 
 
 522 511 
 
 629 616 
 
 7 1 3 
 
 ct The furfaces of thefe large pillars in general are rough and 
 uneven, full of cracks in all directions j the tranfverfe figures in 
 the upright ones never fail to run in their true directions : the 
 furfaces upon which we walked were often flat, having neither 
 concavity nor convexity : the larger number however were con- 
 cave, the/ fome were very evidently convex j in fome places the 
 
 interftices
 
 mum
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 interftices within the perpendicular figures were filled up with a 
 yellow fpar : in one place a vein pafTed in among the mafs of 
 pillars, carrying here and there irnall threads of fpar. Tho* 
 they were broken and cracked through and through in all direc- 
 tions, yet their perpendicular figures might eafily be traced : from 
 whence it is eafy to infer, that whatever the accident might have been, 
 that caufed the diflocation, it happened after the formation of the 
 pillars. 
 
 " From hence proceeding along fhore, you arrive at Fingal's cave": 
 its dimenfions tho' I have given, I fhall here again repeat in the form 
 oF a table : 
 
 Ft. Tn. 
 
 " Length of the cave from the rock without, — 371 6 
 
 from the pitch of the arch, 250 o 
 
 Breadth of ditto at the mouth, — — 53 7 
 
 at the farther end, — — 20 o 
 
 Height of the arch at the mouth, — — 117 6" 
 
 at the end, — — 70 o 
 
 Height of an outfide pillar, — — 39 ^ 
 
 of one at the N. W. corner, — — 54 o 
 
 Depth of water at the mouth, — — — 18 o 
 
 at the bottom, — — — g o 
 
 The cave runs into the rock in the direction of N. E. by E. by the 
 compafs. 
 
 " Proceeding farther to the N. W. you meet with the higi eit 
 ranges of pillars, the magnificent appearance of which is paft all 
 defcription : here they are bare to their very bafis, and the ftratum 
 
 R r below 
 
 $°S
 
 3 o6 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 below them is alfo vifible : in a ihort time it riies many feet 
 above the water, and gives an opportunity of examining its quality. 
 Its furface rough, and has often large lumps of (lone flicking in it, 
 as if half immerfed •, itfelf, when broken, is compofed of a thoufand 
 heterogeneous parts, which together have very much the appearance, 
 of a. Lava-, and the more fo as many of the lumps appear to be of- 
 the very fame (lone of which the pillars are formed : this whole: 
 ftratum lies in an inclined pofition, dipping gradually towards the. 
 S. E. As hereabouts is the fituation of the higheft pillars, I mall 
 mention my meafurements of them and the different ftrata in this, 
 place, premifing that the meafurements were made with a line,, 
 held in the hand of a perfon who flood at the top of the cliff, and 
 reaching to the bottom, to the lower end of which was tied a white 
 mark, which was obferved by one who flaid below for the pur- 
 pofe : when this mark. was fet off from the water, the perfon 
 below noted it down, and made fignal to him above, who made 
 then a mark in his rope: whenever this mark paffed a notable 
 place, the fame fignal was made, and the name of the place noted 
 down as before : the line being all hauled up, and the diflances 
 between the marks meafured and noted down, gave, when com- 
 - pared with the book kept below, the. diflances, as for inflance in 
 the cave : 
 
 " No. i. in the book below, was called from the water to the 
 foot of the firfl pillar, in the book above ; No. i. gave 36 ittt 
 8 inches, the higheft of that afcent, which was compofed of broken 
 pillars. 
 
 No;
 
 Ft; 
 
 In, 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 37 
 66 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 36 
 39 
 
 3 
 6 
 
 3i 
 
 4 
 
 34 
 
 4 
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 No. 1. Pillar at the weft corner of Fingal's cave. 
 
 1 From the water to the foot of the pillar, — • 
 
 2 Height of the pillar, — — 
 
 3 Stratum above the pillar, — r— 
 
 No. 2. Fingal's cave. 
 
 1 From the water to the foot of the pillar, — 
 
 2 Height of the pillar, — — 
 
 3 From the top of the pillar to the top of the arch, 
 
 4 Thicknefs of ^he ftratum above, — — ■ 
 By adding together the three firfl meafurements, we 
 
 got the height of the arch from the water, 117 6 
 
 No. 3. Corner pillar to the weftward of Fingal's cave. 
 Stratum below the pillar of Lava-like matter, — - no 
 Length of pillar, — — — 54 o 
 
 Stratum above the pillar, — — 616 
 
 No. 4. Another pillar to the Weftward. 
 
 Stratum below the pillar, — — 17 1 
 
 Height of the pillar, — — — 50 o 
 
 Stratum above, — — — 51 1 
 
 No. 5. Another pillar farther to the Weftward. 
 
 Stratum below the pillar, — — 19 8 
 
 Height of the pillar, — — ~"~ 55 1 
 
 Stratum above, ■— — - — * 54 7 
 
 R r 2 « The 
 
 307
 
 Cave. 
 
 308 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 " The ftratum above the pillars, which is here mentioned,. is uni- 
 formly the fame, con/ifting of numberlefs fmall pillars, bending and 
 inclining in all directions, fometimes fo irregularly, that the ftones 
 can only be laid to have an inclination to affume a columnar form 5. 
 in others more regular, but never breaking into, or difturbing the 
 ftratum of large pillars, whofe tops every where keep an uniform 
 and irregular line. 
 Corvorant's " Proceeding now along more round the North end of the 
 
 ifland, you arrive at Oua na /carve, or the Corvoranfs-Cave : here 
 the ftratum under the pillars is lifted up very high ; the pillars 
 above it are considerably lefs than thofe at the N. W. end of the 
 ifland, but ftill very considerable. Beyond is a bay, which cuts 
 deep into the ifland, rendering it in that place not more than a 
 quarter of a mile over. On the fides of this bay, efpecially be- 
 yond a little valley, which almoft cuts the ifland into two, aie 
 two ftages of pillars, but fmall -, however having a ftratum be- 
 tween them exactly the fame as' that above them, . formed of in- 
 numerable little pillars, ihaken out of their places, and leaning in all 
 directions." 
 
 " Having paffed this bay, the pillars totally ceafe -, the rock is 
 of a dark brown ftone, and no fignsof regularity occur till you have 
 paffed round the S. E. end of the ifland .(a fpace almoft as large as 
 that occupied by the pillars) which you meet again on the Weft fide, 
 beginning to form themfelves irregularly, as if the ftratum had an; 
 inclination to that form, and foon arrive at the bending pillars where 
 I began. 
 
 " The ftone of which the pillars are formed, is a coarfe kind of 
 BafalteSs very much refembling. the Gianfs caufeway in Ireland y 
 
 though 1
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 309 
 
 though none of them are near fo neat as the fpecimens of the latter, 
 which I have feen at the Britijh Mufeum •, owing chiefly to the color, 
 which in our's is a dirty brown, in the Irijh a fin^Jblack : indeed the 
 whole production feems very much to refemble the Giant's Caufeway ; 
 with which I fliould willingly compare it, had I any account of the 
 former before me *." 
 
 Proceed with a fine breeze •, fee, beyond Staffa, Baca-beg, and 
 the Dutchman's- cap, formed like a Phrygian bonnet : next fucceeds 
 Lunga f, varying into grotefque fhapes as we recede from it : the 
 low flats of Flada next fhew themfelves : and laflly the ifles of Cairn- Cairn-berg. 
 berg 'more and beg ; the firft noted for its antient fortrefs, the out- 
 guard to the Sudereys, or Southern Hebrides. 
 
 In the year 1249, John Dungadi, appointed by Acho of Norway, 
 king of the Northern Hebrides, was entrufted with the defence of 
 this caftle •, and, in return for that confidence, declined to furrender 
 it to Alexander III. of Scotland, who meditated the conqueft of thefe 
 iflands. It was in thofe days called Kiarnaburgh, or Biarnaburgh £. 
 The Madeanes poflefled it in 171 5, and during the rebellion of that 
 year, was taken and retaken by each party. 
 
 * As this account is copied from Mr. Banks's journal, I take the liberty of 
 faying (what by this time that gentleman is well acquainted with) that Staffa is a 
 genuine mafs of Eafaltes, or Giant's Caufeway ; but in moft refpe&s fuperior to the 
 Irijh in grandeur. I mull add that the name is Norwegian ; and moft properly 
 bellowed on account of its fingular ftru&ure : Staffa being derived from Staf, a 
 flaff, prop, or, figuratively, a column. 
 
 t (') At the bottom of the print of the rocks of Cannay, is a very fingular 
 view of Lunga, and the Dutchman* cap, as they appeared about eight or nine 
 miles diftant, the firft S. S. by W. the laft S. W. by S. . 
 
 % Torfaus, J 6a. 
 
 In
 
 3 W A VOYAGE to the 
 
 In our courfe obferve at a diftance, Tirey, or Tir-I, famous for its 
 great plain, and the breed of little horfes. To the North, feparated 
 from Tirey by a fmall found, is the ifle of Col. I muft not omit 
 obferving, that the firft, is reported, by a very fenfible writer, to be 
 well adapted for the culture of tobacco *. 
 
 Pafs the point Ruth-an i-Jleith, in Mull, when Egg high and 
 rounded, Muck fmall, and the exalted tops of the mountanous 
 Rum, and lofty Skie, appear in view. Leave, on the Eaft, CaU 
 garai bay, in Mull, with a few houfes, and fome figns of cultivation ; 
 the rlrft marks of population that had fhewn themfclves in this vaft 
 ifland. 
 
 The entrance of the found of Mull now opens, bounded to the 
 North by cape Ardnamurcban, or, the height of the boifterous 
 fea ; and beyond, inland, foar the vaft fummits of ' Benevijh, Morvern 
 and Crouachan. 
 
 Towards afternoon the fky grows black, and the wind frefhens 
 into a gale, attended with rain, difcouraging us from a chace of 
 feals, which we propofed on the rock Heijkyr, a little to the Weft 
 where they fwarm. To the Weft of Camay, have a fight of the 
 rock Humbla, formed of Bafaltic columns f. 
 
 Leave, three leagues to the Weft, the cairns of Col, a dangerous 
 chain of rocks, extending from its Northern extremity. 
 
 Sail under the vaft mountains of Rum, and the point of Bredon, 
 through a moft turbulent fea, caufed by the clafhing of two adverfe 
 tides. See feveral fmall whales, called here Pollacks, that when near 
 
 * Accompt current betwixt England and Scotland, by John SprueU 
 f This was difcovered by Mr. Murdoch Mackenzie. 
 
 land
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 land are often chaced on fhore by boats : they are ufually about ten. 
 feet long, and yield four gallons of oil. At feven o'clock in the 
 evening find ourfelves at anchor in four fathom water, in the fnug 
 harbour of the ifle of 
 
 G A N N a y, 
 
 Formed on the N. fide by Cannay, on the South by the little ifle of. 
 Sanda: the mouth lies oppofite to Rum, and about three miles diftant: 
 the Weftern channel into it is impervious, by reafon of rocks. On 
 that fide of the entrance next to Sanda is a rock to be fhunned by 
 mariners; 
 
 As foon as we had time to call our eyes about, each fhore appeared . 
 pleafing to humanity; verdant, and covered with hundreds of cattle: 
 both fides gave a full idea of plenty, for the verdure was mixed with 
 very little rock, and fcarcely any heath : but a fhort converfation 
 with the natives foon difpelled this, agreeable error: they were at 
 this very time in fuch want, that numbers for a long time had neither 
 bread nor meal for their poor babes : fifh and milk was their whole 
 fubfiftence at this time : the firft was a precarious relief, for, befides 
 the uncertainty of fuccefs, to add to their diftrefs, their flock of fifh- 
 hooks was almoft exhaufted; and to ours, that it was. not in our 
 power to fupply them. The rubbans, and other trifles I had 
 brought would have been infults to people in diftrefs. I lamented 
 that my money had been fo ufelefsly laid out •, for a few dozens of 
 fifh-hooks, or a few pecks of meal, would Jiiave made them happy. 
 The Turks erect caravanfaras. Chriftians of different opinions 
 
 concur 
 
 3"
 
 3 IJ 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 concur in eftabliming bofpitia among the dreary Alps, for the recep- 
 tion of travellers. I could wifh the public bounty, or private 
 charity, would found in fu parts of the ifks or mainland, magazines 
 of meal, as prefervatives againft i amine in thefe diftant parts. 
 Crops. The crops had failed here the laft year : but the little corn fown 
 
 atprefent had apromifing aped: and the potatoes are the be ft I 
 had feen : but thefe were not fit for ufe. The ifles I fear annually 
 experience a temporary famine : perhaps from improvidence, per- 
 haps from eagernels to encreaie their ltock of cattle, which they 
 can eafily difpofe of to fatisfy the demands of a landlord, or the 
 oppreffions of an agent. The people of Cannay export none, but 
 fell them to the numerous buffes, who put into this Tortus Salutis on 
 different occaiions. 
 Cattle. The cattle are of a middle fize, black, long-legged, and have thin 
 
 flaring manes from the neck along the back, and up part of the 
 tail. They look well, for in feveral parts of the iflands they have 
 crood warm recedes to retreat to in winter. About fixty head are 
 exported annually. 
 
 Each couple of milch cows yielded at an average {even (tones of 
 butter and cheefe : two thirds of the firft and one of the laft. The 
 cheefe fold at three and fixpence a ftone ; the butter at eight 
 millings. 
 Horses. Here are very few fheep : but horfes in abundance. The chief 
 
 ufe of them in this little diftrict is to form an annual cavalcade at 
 Michaelmas* Every man on the ifland mounts his horfe unfurnifhed 
 with faddle, and takes behind him either fome young girl, or his 
 neighbor's wife, and then rides backwards and forwards from the 
 
 village
 
 HEBRIDES. 3n 
 
 village to a certain crofs, without being able to give any reafon for Singula* 
 the origin of this cuftom. After the proceflion is over, they alight custom. 
 
 at fome public houfe, where, ftrange to fay, the females treat the 
 companions of their ride. When they retire to their houfes an en- 
 tertainment is prepared with primaeval fimplicity : the chief part 
 confifts of a great oat-cake, called Struan-Micheil, or St. Michael's 
 cake, compofed of two pecks of meal, and formed like the quadrant 
 of a circle : it is daubed over with milk and eggs, and then placed 
 to harden before the fire. 
 
 Matrimony is held in fuch efteem here, that an old maid or old 
 batchelor is fcarcely known •, fuch firm belief have they in the 
 doctrine of the ape- leading difgrace in the world below. So, to 
 avoid that danger the youth marry at twenty, the lafTes at feven- 
 teen. The fair fex are ufed here with more tendernefs than com- 
 mon, being employed only in domeftic affairs, and never forced 
 into the labors of the field. Here are plenty of poultry and of 
 eggs- 
 
 Abundance of cod and ling might be taken ^ there being a fine Fishery. 
 fand-bank between this ifle and the rock Heijker, and another be- 
 tween Skie and Barra •, but the poverty of the inhabitants will not 
 enable them to attempt a fifhery. When at Campbeltown I enquired 
 about the apparatus requifite, and found that a veffel of twenty tuns 
 was neceffary, which would coll two hundred pounds ; that the 
 crew ihould be compofed of eight hands, whofe monthly expences 
 would be fourteen pounds ; that fix hundred fathom of long-line^ 
 five hundred hooks, and two Stuoy lines (each eighty fathoms lono-) 
 which are placed at each end of the long-lines, with buoys at top to 
 mark the place when funk, would all together coll five guineas ; and 
 
 S f the
 
 3*4 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 the vefifel muft be provided with four fets : fo that the whole charge 
 of fuch an adventure is very confiderable, and pad the ability of 
 thefe poor people *. 
 
 The length of the ifland is about three miles •, the breadth near 
 one : its furface hilly. This was the property of the bifhop of the 
 ifles, but at prefent that of Mr. Macdonald of Clan-Ronald. His 
 Rents. factor, a refident agent, rents mod of the ifland, paying two guineas 
 
 for each penny-land ; and thefe he fets to the poor people at four 
 o-uineas and a half each ; and exacts, befides this, three days labor 
 in the quarter from each perfon. Another head tenant pofTeffes 
 other penny-lands, which he fets in the fame manner, to the impove- 
 rifhino- and very ftarving of the wretched inhabitants. 
 
 The pemiy '-lands derive their name from fomeold valuation. The 
 fum requifite to (lock one is thirty pounds : it maintains feven cows 
 and two horfes ; and the tenant can raife on it eight bolls of fmall 
 black oats, the produce of two •, and four of bear from half a boll 
 of feed ; one boll of potatoes yields feven. The two laft are manured 
 with fea-tang. 
 
 The arable land in every farm is divided into four parts, and lots 
 are caftfor them at Chrijlmas : the produce, when reaped and dried, 
 is divided among them in proportion to their rents ; and for want 
 of mills is ground in the quern. All the pafture is common, from 
 May to the beginning of September. 
 
 It is faid that the factor has in a manner banifhed fheep, be- 
 caufe there is no good market for them j fo that he does his bell 
 to deprive the inhabitants of cloathing as well as food. At pre(ent 
 
 * In Br, Zool. HI. p. 193, is an account of a iifhery of this nature. 
 
 they
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 3i5 
 
 they fupply themfelves with wool from Rum, at the rate of eight- 
 pence the pound. 
 
 All the cloathing is manufactured at home: the women not Manufactures. 
 only fpin the wool, but weave the cloth : the men make their own 
 fhoes, tan the leather with the bark of willow, or the roots of 
 the tormentilla ereffa, or tormentil, and in defect of wax-thread, 
 ufe fplit thongs. 
 
 About twenty tuns of kelp are made in the Ihores every third 
 year. 
 
 Sicknefs feldom vifits this place : if any diforder feizes them 
 the patients do no more than drink whey, and lie {till. The 
 fmall-pox vifits them about once in twenty years. 
 
 All difputes are fettled by the factor, or, if of great moment, 
 by the juftices of the peace in Skie. 
 
 This iOand, Rum, Muck, and Egg, form one parifh. Cannay 
 is inhabited by two hundred and twenty fouls ; of which all ex- 
 cept four families, are Roman Catholics ; but in the whole narifh 
 1 • • . 1 1 r n 1 .. F aii111 Religion. 
 
 there is neither church, manie, nor lchool : there is indeed in this 
 
 iQand a catechift, who has nine pounds a year from the royal 
 bounty. The minifter and the popifh prieft refide in Egg ; but, 
 by reafon of the turbulent feas that divide thefe ifles, are very 
 feldom able to attend their flocks. I admire the moderation of 
 their congregations, who attend the preaching of either indiffe- 
 rently as they happen to arrive. As the Scotch are ceconomifts in 
 religion, I would recommend to them the practice of one of the 
 little Swifs mixed cantons, who, through mere frugality, kept but 
 one divine ; a moderate honeft fellow, who, fleering clear of con- 
 troversial points, held forth to the Calviniji flock on one part of 
 
 S f 2 the
 
 gi€ A V O Y A G E to the 
 
 the day, and to his Catholic on the other. He lived long among 
 them much refpe<5ted, and died lamented. 
 
 The proteftant natives of many of the ifles obferve Yule and 
 Pafch, or Chriftmas and Eafter ; which among rigid prefbyterians 
 is efteemed fo horrid a fuperftition, that I have heard of a minifter 
 who underwent a cenfure for having a goofe to dinner on Chriftmas 
 day •, as if any one day was more holy than another, or to be dif- 
 tinguifhed by any external marks of feflivity. 
 
 In popifh times here was probably a refident minifter ; for here 
 are to be feen the ruins of a chapel, and a fmall crofs. 
 
 Much rain and very hard gales the whole night; the weather 
 being, as it is called in thefe parts, broken. 
 July 12. Bad weather flill continues, which prevented us from feeino- fo 
 
 much of this ifland as we intended, and alfo of vifiting the rock 
 Humbla. Go on fhore at the neareft part, and vifit a lofty (lender 
 rock, that juts into the fea : on one fide is a little tower, at a 
 vaft height above us, accefTible by a narrow and horrible path : 
 it feems fo fmall as fcarce to be able to contain half a dozen 
 people. Tradition fays, that it was built by fome jealous regulus, 
 to confine a handfome wife in. 
 Compass-hill. Xo the North-Weft above this prifon, is the Compafs hill, in 
 Erfe called Sgar-dhearg, or the red projecting rock. On the top 
 the needle in the mariners compafs was obferved to vary a whole 
 quarter ; the North point ftanding due Weft : an irregularity pro- 
 bably owing to the nature of the rock, highly impregnated with 
 iron. 
 
 In the afternoon fome coal was brought, found in the rocks 
 Coal. Dun-eudaw, but in fuch fmall veins as to be ukkh. It lies in 
 
 beds
 
 ^Itfti 
 
 Nj
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 beds of only fix inches in thicknefs, and about a foot diftant 
 from each other, divided by ftrata of whin-flone. Fuel is very 
 fcarce here, and often the inhabitants are obliged to fetch it from 
 Rum. 
 
 A continuation of bad weather. At half an hour after one at J UL *»3« 
 
 noon, loofe from Can/toy, and after pafllng with a favorable gale 
 through a rolling fea, in about two hours, anchor in the 
 
 317 
 
 Ifle of R u 
 
 M, 
 
 in an open bay, about two miles deep, called Loch-$griofard\ 
 
 bounded by high mountains, black and barren : at the bottom 
 
 of the bay is the little village Kinloch, of about a dozen houfes, 
 
 built in a fingular manner, with walls very thick and low, with 
 
 the roofs of thatch reaching a little beyond the inner edge, fo that Housej 
 
 they ferve as benches for the lazy inhabitants, whom we found 
 
 fitting on them in great numbers,, expecting our landing, with 
 
 that avidity for news common to the whole country,. 
 
 Entered the houfe with the beft afpedb, but found it little fu- 
 perior in goodnefs to thofe of Hay, this indeed had a chimney and 
 windows, which diftinguifhed it from the others, and denoted the 
 fuperiority of the owner: the reft knew neither windows nor 
 chimnies. A little hole on one fide gave an exit to the fmoke : 
 the fire is made on the floor beneath ; above hangs a rope, with 
 the pot-hook at the end to hold the veffel that contains their hard 
 fare, a little fifh, milk, or potatoes. Yet, beneath the roof I 
 entered, I found an addrefs and politenefs from the owner and 
 his wife that were aftonifhing : fuch pretty apologies ! for the bad- 
 
 nefs
 
 3l j A VOYAGE to the 
 
 nefs of the treat, the curds and milk that were offered ; which 
 were tendered to us with as much readinefs and good will, as by 
 any of old Homer's dames, celebrated by him in his Odyjfcy for 
 their hofpitality. I doubt much whether their cottages or rheir 
 fare was much better-, but it muft be confeffed that they might be 
 a little more cleanly than our good hoftefs. 
 
 Rum*, or Ronin as it is called by the Dean, is the property of 
 Mr. Mackane, of Col; a landlord mentioned by the natives with 
 much affection. The lengch is about twelve miles ; the breadth 
 fix : the number of fouls at this time three hundred and twenty- 
 five ; of families only fifty-nine, almofi all proteftant. The 
 heads of families, with their wives, were at this time all alive 
 except five, three widowers and two widows. They had with 
 them a hundred and two fons and only feventy-fix daughters : this 
 difproportion prevails in Cannay, and the other little iflands ; in 
 order, in the end, to preferve a ballance between the two {exes • 
 as the men are, from their way of life, fo perpetually expofed to 
 danger in chefe ftormy feas, and to other accidents that mi^ht oc- 
 cafion a depopulation, was it not fo providentially ordered * 
 
 The ifland is one great mountain, divided into feveral points ; 
 the higheft called AifgobhalL About this bay, and towards the 
 Eaft fide, the land dopes towards the water fide •, but on the South 
 Weft forms precipices of a flupendous height. The furface of 
 
 * In Chefter, and other large towns, tho' the number ofmales exceeds the number 
 of females born ; yet when arrived to the age of puberty the females aremuch more 
 numerous than males; becaufe the latter, in every period of life, are more liable 
 to fatal difeafes. 
 
 Rum
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 Rum is in a manner covered with heath, and in a ftate of nature : 
 the heights rocky. There is very little arable land, excepting 
 about the nine little hamlets that the natives have grouped in dif- 
 ferent places j near which the corn is fown in diminutive patches, 
 for the tenants here run-rig as in Cannay. The greateft farmer 
 holds five pounds twelve millings a year, and pays his rent in mo- 
 ney. The whole of the ifland is two thoufand marks *. 
 
 The little corn and potatoes they raife is very good •, but fo Cork, 
 
 fmall is the quantity of bear and oats, that there is not a fourth » 
 part produced to fupply their annual wants : all the fubfiftence. 
 the poor people have befides, is curds milk and fiih. They are 
 a well made and well-looking race, but carry famine in their af- 
 pect. Are often a whole fummer without a grain in the ifland; 
 which they regret not on their own account, but for the fake of 
 their poor babes. In the prefent ceconomy of the ifland, there is 
 no profpect of any improvement. Here is an abfurd cuftom of al- Cattle* 
 lotting a certain ftock to the land ; for example, a farmer is al- 
 lowed to keep fourteen head of cattle, thirty fheep, and fix mares, 
 on a certain tract called 2. penny - land \. The perfon who keeps 
 more is obliged to repair out of his fuperfluity any lofs his neigh- 
 bor may fuftain in his herds or flocks. 
 
 A number of black cattle is fold, at thirty or forty (hillings- 
 per head, to graziers, who come annually from Skie 9 and 
 other places. The mutton here is fmall, but the moft delicate in 
 our dominions, if the goodnefs of our appetites did not pervert 
 
 * A Scotch mark is little more than thirteen-pence-farthing. 
 f- The divifion into penny-lands, and much of the rural oeconomy agree in both 
 iflands. ; 
 
 our 
 
 3*9
 
 320 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 our judgment : the purchafe of a fat flieep was four millings and 
 fixpence : the natives kill a few, and alfo of cows, to fait for 
 winter provifions. A few goats are kept here : abundance of 
 mares, and a neceffary number of ltallions •, for the colts are an 
 article of commerce, but they never part with the fillies. 
 
 Every penny-land is reftri&ed to twenty-eight fttms of cattle : 
 one milch cow is reckoned afum, or ten flieep : a horfe is reck- 
 oned two fums. By this regulation every perfon is at liberty to 
 make up his fums with what fpecies of cattle he pleafes ; but then 
 is at the fame time prevented from injuring his neighbor (in a 
 place where grazing is in common) by rearing too great a flock. 
 This rule is often broken •, but by the former regulation, the 
 fufferer may repair his lofs from the herds of the avaritious. 
 
 No hay is made in this ifiand, nor any fort of provender for 
 winter provifion. The domeftic animals fupport themfelves as 
 well as they can on fpots of grafs preferved for that purpofe. In 
 every farm is one man, from his office called Fear cuar ia i c h w hofe 
 fole bufinefs is to preferve the grafs and corn : as a reward he is 
 allowed grafs for four cows, and the produce of as much arable 
 land as one horfe can till and harrow. 
 
 Very few poultry are reared here, on account of the fcarcity of 
 grain. 
 
 Stags. No wild quadrupeds are found, excepting flags : thefe ani- 
 
 mals once abounded here, but they are now reduced to eighty, 
 by the eagles, who not only kill the fawns, but the old deer' 
 feizing them between the horns, and terrifying them till they fall 
 down fome precipice, and become their prey. 
 
 The
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 The birds we obferved were ring-tail eagles, ravens, hooded- 
 crows, white wagtails, wheat-ears, titlarks, ring-ouze]s, grous, 
 ptarmigans, curlews, .green plovers, fafceddars or arclic gulls, 
 and the greater terns : the Dean mentions gannets, but none ap- 
 peared while we were in the ifland. 
 
 At the foot of Sgor-mor, oppofite to Camay, are found abun- Agates. 
 
 dance of agates, of that fpecies called by Cronfted, feci, lxi, 6, 
 Achates chalcedonifans, improperly, white cornelians : feveral An- 
 gular ftrata, fuch as grey quartzy (tone, Cronjled feci, cclxxiv ; 
 another, a mixture of quartz and bafaltes, a black ftone, fpotted 
 with white, like porphyry, but with the appearance of a lava : 
 fine grit, or free-ftone, and the cinereous indorated bole of Cron- 
 jled, feci. LXXXVII. 
 
 Land again : walk five miles up the fides of the ifland, chiefly Jvly H* 
 over heath and. moory ground : crofs two deep gullies, varied 
 with feveral pretty cafcades, falling from rock to rock : pafs by 
 great maflfes of ftone, corroded as if they had lain on the fhore. 
 After a long afcent reach Loch-nan-grun, a piece of water amidft 
 the rocks, beneath fome of the higheil peaks of the mountains. 
 Abundance of terms inhabit this loch. Return excefiively wet 
 with conftant rain. 
 
 Notwithftanding this ifland has feveral ftreams, here is not a 
 fmgle mile ; all the molinary operations are done at home : the 
 corn ^ graddan'd, or burnt out of the ear, inftead of being Graddan. 
 thraflied : this is performed two ways j firft, by cutting off" the 
 ears, and drying them in a kiln, then fetting fire to them on a 
 floor, and picking out the grains, by this operation rendered as 
 black as coal. The other method is more expeditious, for the 
 
 T t whole 
 
 321
 
 322 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 whole flieaf is burnt, without the trouble of cutting off the 
 ears : a mod ruinous practice, as it deftroys both thatch and ma- 
 nure, and on that account has been wifely prohibited in fome of 
 the iflands. Gradanned corn was the parched corn of Holy Writ. 
 Thus Boaz prefents his beloved Ruth with parched corn •, and Jeffe 
 fends David with an Ephab of the fame to his fons in the camp 
 of Saul The grinding was alfo performed by the fame fort of 
 machine the quern, in which two women were neceflarily employ- 
 ed : thus it is prophefied two women Jhall be grinding at the mill, 
 onejhall be taken, the other left. I mull obferve too that the ifland 
 lafTes are as merry at their work of grinding the Graddan, the 
 scales of the antients, as thofe of Greece were in the days of Art- 
 Jlophanes, 
 
 Who warbled as they ground their parched corn *. 
 
 Quern. The quern or bra is made in fome of the neighboring counties, 
 
 in the mainland, and cods about fourteen millings. This me- 
 thod of grinding is very tedious : for it employs two pair of 
 hands four hours to grind only a fingle bufhel of corn. Inflead 
 of a hair fieve to fift the meal the inhabitants here have an inge- 
 Sieve. nious fubftitute, a fheep's Ikin ftretched round a hoop, and per- 
 
 forated with fmall holes make with a hot iron. They knead their 
 bannock with water only, and bake or rather toaft it, by laying 
 it upright againft a Hone placed near the fire. 
 
 For want of lime they drefs their leather with calcined fhells : 
 and ufe the fame method of tanning it as in Cannay. 
 
 * Nubes, aft v. fcene 1 1 . Graddan is derived from Gradqukk, as the procefs is 
 fo expeditious. 
 
 The
 
 HEBRIDES. 323 
 
 The inhabitants of Rum are people that fcarcely know ficknefs : 
 if they are attacked with a dyfentery they make ufe of a decoction 
 of the roots of the 'Tormentilla erefta in milk. The imall-pox 
 has vifited them but once in thirty-four years, only two fickened, 
 and both recovered. The mealies come often. 
 
 It is not wonderful that fome fuDerftitions fhould reign in thefe Superstition. 
 fequeftered parts. Second fight is firmly believed at this time. 
 My informant faid that Lc.ucblan Mac-Kerran of Cannay had told 
 a gentleman that he could not reft for the noife he heard of the 
 hammering of nails into his coffin : accordingly the gentleman 
 died within fifteen days. 
 
 Molly Mac-leane (aged forty) has the power of forefeeing events 
 through a well-fcraped blade bone of mutton. Some time ago fhe 
 took up one and pronounced that five graves were foon to be 
 opened ; one for a grown perlbn : the other four for children ; one 
 of which was to be of her own kin : and fo it fell out. Thefe 
 pretenders to fecond fight, like the Pythian prieftefs, during their 
 infpiration fall into trances, foam at the mouth, grow pale, and feign 
 to abftain from food for a month, fo over-powered are they by the 
 vifions imparted to them during their paroxyfms. 
 
 I mull not omit a moil convenient fpecies of fecond fight, pof- 
 fefTed by a gentleman of a neighboring ifle, who forefees all vi- 
 fitors, fo has time to prepare accordingly : but enough of thefe 
 tales, founded on impudence and nurtured by folly. 
 
 Here are only the ruins of a church in this ifland •, fo the mi- Church, 
 
 nifter is obliged to preach, the few times he vifits his congrega- 
 tion, in the open air. The attention of our popijh anceftors in this 
 
 T t 2 article,
 
 324 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 article, delivers down a great reproach on the negligence of their 
 reformed defendants : the one leaving not even the moft diftant 
 and favage part of our dominions without a place of worfhip •, the 
 other fufFering the natives to want both inftructor, and temple. 
 
 July 15. 'pj^ weatner grows more moderate-, at one o'clock at noon fail 
 
 from Rum, with a favorable and brifk gale, for the ifle of Skie. 
 Soon reach the point of Slate, at the fouth end, a divifion of that 
 great ifland, a mixture of grafs, a little corn and much heath. 
 Leave on the right the point of Arifalg. Pafs beneath Armadale 
 in Skie, a feat beautifully wooded, gracing moft unexpectedly 
 this almofl tree-lefs tract. A little farther to the Welt opens the 
 mouth of Loch-in-daal, a fafe harbour, and oppofite to it on the 
 main-land, that of Loch-Jurn, or the lake of Hell, with black 
 mountains of tremendous height impending above. 
 
 The channel between the mire of Invernefs and Skie now con- 
 tracts ; and enlarges again to a fine bay oppofite to Glenelg, between 
 the main-land and Dunan-ruagh, where is good anchorage under Skie, 
 At the north end of this expanfe, the two fides fuddenly contract, 
 
 Kul-ri. and at Kul-ri form a ftrait bounded by high lands, not a quar- 
 
 ter of a mile broad-, the flood which runs here at the fpring 
 tides at the rate of feven knots an hour, carried us through with 
 great rapidity, into another expanfe perfectly land-locked, and 
 very picturefque. We were now arrived amidft an amphitheatre 
 of mountains ; the country of Kintail bounded us on the North 
 andEaft; and Skie (which from Loch-in-daal became more lofty) 
 confined us with its now wooded cliffs to the South. The ruins 
 of an antient caftle, feated on the pinnacle of a rock, and fome 
 
 little
 
 Z*5 
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 little ifles formed our weftern view. Thefe of old belonged to the 
 Mac-kinnons, a very antient race, who call themfelves Clan-Alpin, or 
 the defcendants of Alpin, a Scotch monarch in the 9th century. 
 Some of the line have ftill a property in Skie. 
 
 The violent fqualls of wind darting from the apertures of the hills 
 teized us for an hour, but after various tacks at laft Mr. Thomp- 
 fon anchored fafely beneath Mac-kinnon's caftle, amidft a fleet of Mac-kinnon's 
 bufTes, waiting with anxiety for the appearance of herrings, this Castle. 
 
 year uncommonly late. The hard rains were no fmall advan^ 
 tage to our fcenery. We lay beneath a vail hill, called Glais- 
 bhein, cloathed with birch and oaks, inhabited by roes : cataracts 
 poured down in various places amidft the woods, reminding me of 
 the beautiful cafcades between Scheideck and Meyringen, in the canton 
 of Underwald. This part is in the difbridt of Strath, another portion 
 of Skie. 
 
 Land at a point called the Kyle, or paffage, where about fourfcore July 16. 
 
 horfes were collected to be tranfported a la nage to the oppofite The Kyle.. 
 fhore, about a mile diftant, in the fame manner as, Polybius* informs 
 us, Hannibal pafTed his cavalry over the rapid Rhone. They were 
 taken over by fours, by little boats, a pair on each fide held with 
 halters by two men, after being forced off a rock into the fea. We 
 undertook the conveyance of a pair. One, a pretty grey horfe, 
 fwam admirably ; the other was dragged along like a log ; but as 
 foon as it arrived within fcent of its companions before landed, re- 
 vived, difengaged itfelf, and took to the fhore with great alacrity. 
 
 * Lib, iii. c. 8» 
 
 Some
 
 3 26 AVOYAGEtothe 
 
 Some very gentleman- like men attended thefe animals, and with 
 great politenefs offered their fervices. 
 
 Among the crowd was a lad creftis auribus ; his ears had never 
 been Twaddled down, and they ftood out as nature ordained j and I 
 dare fay his fenfe of hearing was more acute by this liberty. 
 
 The horned cattle of Skie are fwam over, at the narrow paflage of 
 Kul-ri, at low water , fix, eight, or twelve are pafied over at a time, 
 tied with ropes made of twifted withies fattened from the under jaw 
 of the one to the tail of the preceding, and fo to the next ; the firft 
 is fattened to a boat, and thus are conveyed to the oppofite fhore. 
 This is the great pafs into the ifland, but is deftituteeven of a horfe- 
 ferry. 
 July 17. At five in the morning quit our fituation, ard paffing through a 
 
 narrow and fiiort found, arrive in another fine expanle, beautifully 
 land-locked by the mainland (part of Rofsjhire) the iflands of Rona 
 and Croulin, Rafa, diftinguifhed by the high hillock, called Dun- 
 canna •, Scalpa, and the low verdant ifle of Pabay, in old times the 
 feat of affaffins *. Skie fhews a verdant Hope for part of its fhore: 
 beyond foar the conic naked hills of Straitb, and ftill farther the 
 ragged heights of Blaven. 
 
 See, behind us, the ruins of the cattle, and the entrance of 
 the bay we had left, the openings into the great lochs Kijferne 
 and Carrotiy and, as a back-ground, a boundlefs chain of rugged 
 mountains. The day was perfectly clear, and the fea fmooth as 
 a mirrour, difturbed but by the blowing of two whales, who en- 
 
 • In the time of the Dean all thefe little ifles were full of woods, at prefent 
 quite naked. 
 
 tertained
 
 1 
 
 •I 
 
 K
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 tertained us for a confiderable fpace by the jet de eaux from their 
 orifices. 
 
 Mr. Mac-kinnon % junior, one of the gentlemen we faw with the 
 horfes, overtakes us in a boat, and preiTes us to accept the entertain- 
 ment of his father's houfe of Coire-chattachan, in the neighboring 
 part of Skie. After landing near the ifle of Scalpa, and walking 
 about two miles along aflat, arrive at the quarters fo kindly pro- 
 vided ; directing Mr. Tbompfon to carry the veffel to the North part 
 of Skie. 
 
 The country is divided by low banks of earth, and, like the other 
 iflands, has more pafturage than corn. In my walk to Kilchrifi, the 
 church of the parifh of Strath^ faw, on the road-fide flrata of lime- 
 ftone and ftone-marle, the former grey, the laft white, and in many 
 parts diifolved into an impalpable powder, and ready to the hands 
 of the farmer. It is efteemed a fine manure, but better for corn than 
 grafs. 
 
 Near the church are vaft ftrata of fine white marble, and fome 
 veined with grey, which I recognized to have been the bed, from 
 whence the altar at Jona had been formed. Obferve alfo great 
 quantities of white granite, fpotted with black. MefTrs. Light/cot 
 and Stuart afcend the high limeftone mountain of Beinn-jhuardal % 
 and find it in a manner covered with that rare plant the Dryas 
 otlopela. 
 
 On my return am entertained with a rehearfal, I may call it, of Luagk. 
 the Luagb, or, walking of cloth, a fubflitute for the fulling-mill : 
 twelve or fourteen women, divided into two equal numbers, fit down 
 on each fide of a long board, ribbed lengthways, placing the cloth 
 on it : firft they begin to work it backwards and forwards with 
 
 their 
 
 327 
 
 White marble.
 
 S2 a A VOYAGE to the 
 
 their hands, Tinging at the fame time, as at the Quern : when they 
 have tired their hands, every female ufes her feet for the fame 
 purpofe, and fix or feven pair of naked feet are in the mod 
 violent agitation, working one againft the other : as by this time 
 they <*row very earneft in their labors, the fury of the fong rifes; 
 at length it arrives to fuch a pitch, that without breach of charity 
 you would imagine a troop of female demoniacs to have been 
 aiTembled. 
 
 They fing in the fame manner when they are cutting down the 
 corn, when thirty or forty join in chorus, keeping time to the found 
 of a bagpipe, as the Grecian laffes were wont to do to that of a lyre 
 durino- vintage in the days of Homer *. The fubject of the 
 fongs at the Luaghadh, the Quern, and on this occafion, are fome- 
 times love, fometimes panegyric, and often a rehearfal of the 
 deeds of the antient heroes, but commonly all the tunes flow and 
 melancholy. 
 rs Sinking at the Quern is now almoft out of date fince the introduc- 
 
 l^UERN" fc> o >^ 
 
 grinding. tion of water-mills. The laird can oblige his tenants, as in England, 
 to make ufe of this more expeditious kind of grinding ; and em- 
 powers his miller to fearch out and break any Querns he can find, as 
 machines that defraud him of the toll. Many centuries paft, the 
 legiflature attempted to difcourage thefe aukward mills, fo preju- 
 dicial to the landlords, who had been at the expence of others. In 
 1284, in the time of Alexander III. it was provided, that * na man 
 ' fall prefume to grind quheit, maijhlocb, or rye, with hand mylne, 
 f except he be compelled by ftorm, or be in lack of mills quhilk 
 
 • Iliad, xviii, line 570. 
 
 : fouid
 
 
 7P
 
 Tlfcmen at tit (QJITERN and Oe LlTAift 
 
 //■rtb a iTf/r ffTA17l%\ 
 
 r

 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 329 
 
 CAILLICH 
 
 ' fould grind the famen. And in this cafe gif a man grindes at 
 ' hand mylnes, he fal gif the threttein meafure as muker, and gif 
 ' anie man contraveins this our prohibition, he fall tine his hand 
 * mylnes perpetuallie.' 
 
 Walk up Beinn-a-caillich, or, the hill of the old hag; one of July 18. 
 thofe picturefque mountains that made fuch a figure from the fea. Beinn-na- 
 After afcending a fmall part, find its fides covered with vail loofe 
 flones, like the paps of Jura, the ITielter of ptarmigans : the top 
 flat and naked, with an artificial cairn, of a mod enormous fize, 
 reported to have been the place of fepulture of a gigantic wo- 
 man in the days of Fingal. The profpect to the Weil was that of 
 defolation itfelf; a favage feries of rude mountains, difcolored, 
 black and red, as if by the rage of fire. Neareft, joined to this hill 
 by a ridge, is Beia-an-ghrianan, or the mountain of the Sun; perhaps 
 venerated in antient times. Mal-more, or the round mountain, 
 appears on the North. The ferrated tops of Blaven affect with 
 aftonifhment ; and beyond them, the cluftered height of ^uillin, 
 or, the mountain of Cuchullin, like its antient hero *, Jiood like 
 a hill that catches the clouds of heaven. The deep receffes between 
 thefe Alps, in times of old, pofTefTed the fons of the narrow vales, 
 the hunters of deer , and to this time are inhabited by a fine race of 
 {tags. 
 
 The view to the N. Eaft and S. Weft is not lefs amufing : a 
 fea fprinkled over with various ifl.es, and the long extent of coaft 
 foaring into all the forms of Alpine wildnefs. I muft not omit 
 
 * His refidence is faid to have been at Dunfcaicb, in this ifland. The literal 
 weaning ofS>uillin, or Cullin, is a narrow dark hollow. 
 
 U u that
 
 S30 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 that the point of Camifketel, on the South of Skie, was fhewed to 
 me at a diftance, famous for the cave which gave fhelter for two 
 nights to the young adventurer, and his faithful guide, the antient 
 Mac-kinnon. 
 
 Leave Coire-chattachan, after experiencing every civility from the 
 family •, and from the Rev. Mr. Nicholfon, the minifter. Wind 
 along the bottoms of the fteep hills. Pafs by the end of Loch-Jlappan 
 to the South. See a ftone dike or fence called Paraicnamfiadh, or 
 the inclofure of the deer, which feems once to have been continued 
 up a neighboring hill. In one angle is a hollow, in the days of 
 OJfian, a pitfall covered with boughs for the deftruction of the 
 animals chafed into it. Places of this name are very common, and 
 very necelTary, when the. food of mankind was the beafts of the 
 field. 
 
 Turn towards the northern coaft -, pafs by the end of Loch- 
 Jligacban, and foon after by the fide of the fmall frefh water Loch-?ia- 
 caiplich, filled with that fcarce plant Eriocaulon decangulare, firft difco- 
 vered by Mr. James Robert/on. Breakfaft at Sconfer, one of the poft- 
 Isls of Rasa, offices, an inn oppofite to Rafa, an ifland nine miles long and three 
 broad, divided from Side by a found a mile broad. On the more 
 the houfe of Mr. Macleod, the owner of Rafa, makes a pretty figure. 
 The Dean fpeaks of this ifland, ' as having maney deires, pairt of 
 ' profitable landes inhabit, and manurit, with twa caftles, to wit, 
 ' the caftle of Kilmorocht\ and the caftle of Brolokit, with twa fair 
 * orchards at the faids twa caftles with ane pariih kirke, called Kil- 
 4 molowocke. In his time, he fays, it perteining to Mac-ghyllichallan of 
 ' Raarfay be the fword, and to the bifhope of the ifles be heritage.' 
 This ufurper was a yaflal of Mackod of Lewis, who probably con- 
 
 figned
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 figned it to his chieftain, from whom the prefent proprietor derives 
 his family. 
 
 Continue our journey pointing to the S. Weft. Meet great droves 
 of fine cattle, on their way to change of pafture. See a fmall quan- 
 tity of very poor flax, raifed from the feed of the country, a very 
 unprofitable management : but the greateft part of the land was 
 covered with heath. Leave to the left the mountains of Cuchullin, 
 Cullin, or Quillin, which reach to the fea. Come to the end of Loch- 
 Bracadale, which pierces the ifland on this fide. Skie is fo divided 
 by branches of the fea, that there. is not a place five miles diftant 
 from a port j fuch numbers of good harbours are there in a place 
 deftitute of trade, and without a fingle town. Near the end of this 
 Loch the ground is more cultivated i but all the corn land is dug 
 with the cas-chrom or crooked fpade, inftead of being ploughed: 
 eight men are necefiary to dig as much in a day as a fingle plough 
 would turn up : the harrows are commonly tied to the horfes tails ; 
 but in very wet land, the men and women break the fods by drag- 
 ging over them a block of wood, with five teeth and a long handle, 
 called Raachgan. 
 
 Defcend through a narrow pafs, and arrive inftantly in a tract flat 
 as any in Holland, opening to the weft with a fine. diftant view of 
 North and South Uift, and other parts of the Long ifland: bounded on 
 the other three fides by high precipices, enlivened with cataracts 
 formed by the heavy rains. In a wood in a fnug corner lies Taly- Talyskir. 
 Jkir, inhabited by Mr. Macleod, lieutenant-colonel in the Dutch 
 fervice, who with the utmoft hofpitality fheltered us from the in- 
 clemency of the day. This houfe belongs to the chief of the name; 
 and in old times was always the portion of a fecond fon : he enjoyed 
 
 U u 2 it 
 
 33*
 
 332 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 it for life, with the view of giving him the means of educating his 
 children ; who after that were left to the care of fortune ; which 
 cuftom filled foreign fervice with a gallant fet of officers. Daughters 
 of chieftains were generally portioned with cattle ; and often with 
 a fet of flout men, who in feudal times were valuable acquifi- 
 tions to the hufband, who eftimated his wealth by the power of 
 his people, for he initantly adopted and incorporated them with his 
 own 'dan. 
 Dutch service. T t %v \\\ not b e impertinent to mention here the origin of the Scotch 
 
 regiments in the Dutch fervice. They were formed out of fome 
 independent companies, fent over either in the reign of Elizabeth or 
 James VI. At prefent the common foldiers are but nominally natio- 
 nal, for fince the fcarcity of men, occafioned by the late war, Holland 
 is no longer permitted to draw her recruits out of North Britain. 
 But the officers are all Scotch, who are obliged to take oaths to our 
 government, and to qualify in prefence of our embafifador at the 
 Hague. 
 July 20. See here a Cly-more, or great two-handed fword, probably of the 
 
 fame kind with the ingentes gladii of the Caledonians, mentioned by 
 Great sword. <f ac itus ; an unwieldy weapon, two inches broad, doubly edged ; the 
 length of the blade three feet feven inches •, of the handle, fourteen 
 inches ; of a plain tranfverfe guard, one foot ; the weight fix pounds 
 and a half. Thefe long fwords were the original weapons of our 
 country, as appears by a figure of a foldier, found among the ruins 
 of London, after the great fire, A. D. 1666, and preferved at Ox- 
 ford * : his fword is of a vaft length, his hair flowing, his legs 
 
 * Monfaucon> Antiq.iv. 16. tab.x. 
 
 bare.
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 333 
 
 bare, his lower garment fhort, and fattened by a girdle round his 
 wade •, the fagum is flung carelefsly over his bread and one arm, 
 ready to be flung off, as cuflom was, in time of action. The great 
 broad fword, and much the fame kind of drefs, were preferved in 
 the highlands to the laft age, at the battle of Killicrankie : the upper 
 garment was thrown off by the Highlanders, in order to enable 
 them to ufe this two-handed inftrument with greater effect. But 
 the enormous length of weapon has been found ufelefs againfl the 
 flrmnefs of determined troops, from the battle of the * Mons Gram- 
 pus, to the recent victory of Culloden. The fhort fwords of the 
 forces of Agricola, and the bayonets of the Briti/h regulars, were 
 equally fuperior. 
 
 Col. Macleod favors me with a weapon, common to the Romans, Brazen sword. 
 Scandinavians, and Britons. It is a brazen fword, whofe blade is 
 twenty-two inches long •, the handle (including a round hollow 
 pummel) five and a half*, the middle of the blade fwells out on both 
 fides, and the edges very fharp; the end pointed ; we are told -f- 
 that the fcabbards are of brafs, but this was deftitute. of one. The 
 weapon was found in Skie. The fame kind is met with in many parts 
 of Scotland and of Wales, which the Danes have viflted • and they 
 have been frequently dilcovered in tumult, and other fepulchres, in 
 Denmark and Holface, depofited there with the urns in honor of the 
 deceafed j;. Others, fimilar, have been found in Sweden §. 
 
 * Tacsti'vit. Agric. C. 36. 
 f Sibbald append, hift. Fife, p. 18. 
 
 % Wormii Mon. Dan. p. 48. tab. p 50. Worm* muf. 354. Jacob* muf. Reg. 
 Han/nitf. pars 11. fe£t. iii. 
 
 I Dablberg, Suec* Ant. tab. 314. 
 
 Walk
 
 334 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Walk down the Eaft fide of the vale, and fee the well of 
 Cuchullin. Take boat near the lofty infulated rock, Stach in nucbi" 
 dar, or that of the fuller, pyramidal and inclining : am rowed be- 
 neath a range of magnificent cliffs, at whofe bafe were lodged plenty 
 of white cryilallized zeolite, and vaft rocks of ftone, of the appearance 
 of lava, filled with rounded kernels. 
 Jorrams. Our boat's crew were iflanders, who gave a fpecimen of marine 
 
 mufic, called in the Erfe, Jorrams : thefe fongs, when well compofed, 
 are intended to regulate the ftrokes of the oars, and recall to mind 
 the cuftoms of claflical days. 
 
 Mediae fiat margine puppis 
 Qui voce alternos nautarum temperet ictus, 
 Et remis diftet fonitum, pariterque relatis, 
 Ad numerum plaudat refonantia cajrula tonfis. 
 
 Silius, lib. iv. 
 
 But in modern times they are generally fung in couplets, the whole 
 crewjoining in chorus at certain intervals : the notes are commonly 
 long, the airs folemn and flow, rarely chearful, it being impoilible 
 for the oars to keep a quick time : the words generally have a reli^ 
 gious turn, confonant to that of the people. 
 July 21. Vifit.a high hill, called Briis-mbawl, about a mile South of Taly- 
 
 Basaltic rocks. Jkir^ having in the front a fine feries of genuine bafaltic columns, 
 refembling the Giant's caufeway : the pillars were above twenty feet 
 high, confifting of four, five and fix angles, but moftly of five : the 
 columns lefs frequently jointed than thofe of the Irijh \ the joints 
 being at great and unequal diftances, but the majority are entire : 
 even thofe that are jointed are lefs concave and convex on their 
 
 oppofue
 
 HEBRIDES. 335 
 
 oppofite furface than the columns of the former. The ftratum that 
 relted on this colonnade was very irregular and mattery, yet feemed 
 to make fome effort at form. The ruins of the columns at the bafe 
 made a grand appearance : thefe were the ruins of the creation : thofe 
 of Rome, the work of human art, feem to them but as the ruins of 
 yefterday. 
 
 At a fmall diftance from thefe, on the Hope of a hill, is a tract 
 of fome roods entirely formed of the tops of feveral feries of 
 columns, even and clofe fet, forming a reticulated furface of amaz- 
 ing beauty and curiofity. This is the moft northern ■ Bafaltes I am 
 acquainted with ; the laft of four in. the Britijli dominions, all run- 
 ning from South to North, nearly in a meridian : the Giant's 
 Caufeway appears firft ; Staffa fucceeds •, the rock Humbla about 
 twenty leagues further, and finally the column of Briis-mhawl : the 
 depth of ocean in all probability conceals the loft links of this 
 chain. 
 
 Take leave of ^alyfkir. See very near to the houfe the veftiges Loch-Braca- 
 of fome fmall buildings, and by them a heap of Hones, with a bafal- dale.. 
 
 tic column fet erect in the middle. Crofs a range of barren lands for 
 four miles : reach Loch- Br ■acadale. Exchange our horfes for a boat. 
 Pafs over this beautiful land-locked harbour abounding with fafe 
 creeks. Cod-fim fwarm here in the herring feafon purfuing the 
 fhoals : a man with a fingle hand-line caught in three hours as many 
 as were fold for three guineas, at the rate of twopence apiece. 
 Land, after a trajecr of four miles, and find ready a. new fet of 
 horfes. 
 
 This feems to me the fitteft place in the ifland for the forming of 
 a town. The harbour is deep and unfpeakably fecure. It is the 
 
 Milford
 
 33 5 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Milford haven of thefe parts •, it opens at its mouth to the heft pari: 
 of the fea. Skie has not in it a fingle town or even village. But 
 what is a greater wonder, there is not a town from Campbelton in 
 the Firth of Clyde to Tburfo, at the end of Catbnefs, a tract of above 
 two hundred miles. 
 Danish fort. Proceed: ride by, at Struan, a beautiful Danijh fort on the top 
 of a rock, formed with moft excellent mafonry. The figure as 
 ufual circular. The diameter from outfide to outfide fixty feet : 
 of the infide forty-two. Within are the veftiges of five apart- 
 ments, one in the centre, four around : the walls are eighteen 
 feet hio-h. The entrance fix feet high, covered with great 
 (tones. 
 
 About a furlong north weft of this, is another large rock pre- 
 cipitous on all fides but one. On that is the ruin of a very thick 
 wall, and the traces of a dike quite round, even on the inaccefii- 
 ble parts. Between which and the wall is a large area. This 
 feems to have been built without regularity, yet probably be- 
 longed to the fame nation. Each feems defigned to cover an 
 aflemblage of people who lived beneath their protection in a ho- 
 ftile country, for under both are remains of numbers of fmall 
 buildings with regular entrances. The laft incloiure is fuppefed 
 to have been defigned for the fecurity of the cattle, of which, thefe 
 free-booters had robbed the natives ; and this fpecies is diftin- 
 guifhed by the name of Boaghun. 
 
 Thefe fortrefles are called univerfally in the Erfe, Duns. I 
 find that they are very rare in the country from whence they took 
 their origin ; no people will give themfelves the trouble of forti- 
 fying amidft the fecurity of friends. Mr. Frederic Suhm of Copen- 
 
 hagen,
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 m 
 
 hagen, whom I had the pleafure of addreffing on this fubject, 
 could point out but a fingie inftance, of a limilar tower, and that 
 on the Snail/berg, a mountain half a Norwegian league dillant from 
 Drontheim. But we may expect further elucidations from a fkilful 
 antiquary now on the tour of the country. 
 
 About two miles farther, fee near the road-fide, two laro-e co- 
 noid Cairns : pafs near the end of Loch-ca-roy, a branch of the 
 noble Locb-Bracadak, and foon after reach the caftle of 
 
 Dun-vegan, the feat of Mr. Mackod, a gentleman defcended Dun-vegan. 
 from one of the Norwegian vice-roys, governors of the ifles while 
 they bore a foreign yoke. But the antiquity of his defcent is an 
 accident that would convey little honor to him ; had he not a 
 much more fubftantial clame ; for to all the milkinefs of human 
 nature ufually concomitant with his early a^e, is added the 
 lenfe and firmnefs of more advanced life. He feels for the 
 diftreffes of his people, and infenfible of his own, with uncom- 
 mon difintereftednefs has relieved his tenants from their oppreffive 
 rents j has received inflead of the trafli of gold, the treafure of 
 warm affections, and unfeigned prayer. He will foon experience 
 the good effects of his generofity ; gratitude, the refult of the 
 fenfibiliry ftill exifting among thofe accuftomed to a feudal go- " 
 
 vernment, will fhew itfelf in more than empty words ; and in 
 time they will not fail exerting every nerve to give his virtue the 
 due reward. Feudal governments, like that of unmixed monarchy, 
 has its conveniences and its blelTings. The laft rarely occur 
 from the imperfection of human nature: One Being only can 
 lay clame to that : therefore it is the bufinefs of every honcft 
 man to refill the very appearance of undivided power in a prince, 
 
 X x of
 
 338 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 or the fhadow of independency in a fubjec"h The highlanders 
 may blefs the hand that loofened their bonds : for tyranny more 
 often than protection was the attendance on their vaffalage. Yet 
 ftill from long habitude, and from the gleams of kindnefs that 
 darted every now and then amidft the ftorms of feverity, was 
 kindled a fort of filial reverence to their chieftain : this ftill is 
 in a great degree retained, and may, by cherifliing, return with 
 more than wonted vigor. The noxious part of the feudal reign 
 is abolilhed ; the delegated rod of power is now no more. But 
 let not the good part be loft with the bad : the tender relation 
 that patriarchal government experiences, mould ftill be retained :. 
 and the mutual inclination to beneficence preferved. The chief- 
 tain fhould not lofe, with the power of doing harm, the difpofi- 
 tion of doing good. Such are the fentiments of Mr. Macleod y 
 which ripen into actions that, if perfifted in, will bring lading 
 comfort into his own bofom, and the moft defired of blefllngs 
 amongft a numerous clan. 
 
 The caftle of Dun vegan is feated on a high rock, over a loch 
 of the fame name, a branch of Loch Falart. Part is modernized, 
 but the greateft portion is antient : the oldeft is a fquare tower,. 
 which with a wall round the edge of the rock, was the original 
 ftrength of the place. Adjacent is a village and the poll-office ; 
 for from hence a pacquet-boat, fupported by fubfcription, fails 
 every fortnight for the Long-ijland. 
 Fairy-flag. Here is preferved the Braolauch Jhi, or fairy-flag of the family,! 
 
 bellowed on it by Titania the Ben-Jhi, or wife to Oberon king of 
 the fairies. She blerTed it at the fame time with powers of the 
 firft importance, which were to be exerted on only three occa- 
 
 fions :.
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 339 
 
 fions : but on the Jaft, after the end was obtained, an invifible 
 Being is to arrive and carry off ftandard and ftandard- bearer, never 
 more to be feen. A family of Clan y Faitter had this dangerous 
 office, and held by it, free lands in Bracadale. 
 
 The flag has been produced thrice. The firft time in an une- 
 qual engagement againft the Clan-Ronald, to whofe fight the Ma- 
 cleods were multiplied ten-fold. The fecond preferved the heir 
 of the family, being tben produced to fave the longings of the 
 lady : and the third time, to fave my own ; but it was fo tattered, 
 that Titania did not feem to think it worth fending for. 
 
 This was a fuperftition derived from the Norwegian anceftry of 
 the houfe : the fable was caught from the country, and might be 
 of ufe to animate the clan. The Danes had their magical ftan- 
 dard, Reafan, or, the raven, embroidered in an inftant by the 
 three daughters of Lodbroke, and fillers of Hinguar, Hubba, or 
 Ivar *. Sigurd had an enchanted flag given him by his mother, 
 with circumftances fomewhat fimilar to the Dun-vegan colors : 
 whofoever bore it in the day of battle was to be killed ; accord- v 
 ingly in one of his battles three ftandard-bearers were fuc- 
 cefiively flain ; but on the death of the lafl he obtained the 
 victory f. 
 
 Here is preferved a great ox-horn, tipped with filver : the arm Ox-horn cup. 
 was twilled round its fpires, the mouth brought over the elbow, 
 and then drank off. The Northern nations held this fpecies of 
 cup in high efteem, and ufed the capacious horns of the great 
 
 * AJftr* vit. Jlfrtd. 10. f Torfaus, 27. 
 
 X x 2 Aurochs*
 
 !40 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Aurochs *, They graced the hofpitable halls of kings **, and 
 out of them the antient heroes quenched their thirft : Haquin f, 
 weary with ilaughter, calls aloud for the mighty draught. 
 
 Heu labor immenfus, feflbs quam vellicat artus ! 
 Quis mihi jam praebet cornua plena mero ? 
 
 Shield. In this cattle is alfo preferved, a round fhield, made of iron,, 
 
 that even in its decayed ftate weighs near twenty pounds ; itfelf a 
 lead in thefe degenerate days : yet they were in ufe no longer. ago 
 than the beginning of the laft century. Each chieftain had his 
 armour-bearer, who proceeded his matter in time of war, and, by 
 my author's J account, in time of peace •, for they went armed 
 even to church, in the manner the N. Americans do at prefent in the 
 frontier fettlement, and for the fame reafon, the dread of favages. 
 
 In times long before thofe, the antient Scotch ufed round tar- 
 gets, made of oak, covered with the hides of bulls ; and long 
 ihields, narrow below and broad above, formed of pieces of oak 
 or willow, fecured with iron : I guels them to be of the fame kind 
 with the Norwegian fhields figured by Wormius f, and probably de- 
 rived from the fame country. They had alfo a guard for their 
 ihoulders, called || Scapuly and for offenfive weapons had the- 
 bow, fword, two-handed fword, and Lochaber ax, a weapon like- 
 wife of Norwegian origin. But the image-tombs of antient war- 
 riors are the beft lectures on this fubjeci. 
 
 * Urorum cornibus,Barbari feptentrionalespotant, urnafque binas capitis unius 
 cornua implent. Plinii lib. II. c. 37. 
 
 ** Saxo Grammat. 94. f Wormii Man. Dan* 389. 
 
 X Timothy Pout's M. S. Advoc. Library. 
 
 \\ Vide fig. 1 ,. tab. xx. t Ibid,. 
 
 Mr.
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 Mr. Macqueen informs me, that near this place is an Anait, or Anait. 
 
 Druidical place of worfhip, of which there are four in Skie, much of 
 the fame fituation and conftrudtion. This lies in the heart of an 
 extenfive moor, between the confluence of two waters. To the eaft 
 (lands one hill, to the weft another : which gradually flope down 
 toward the plain, and from which a clear profpect might be had of 
 all that paffed below. From one of thefe waters to the other is a 
 flrong (lone wall, forming an equilateral triangle : the rocks face it 
 towards the water, and every crevice is filled with ftones regularly 
 laid ; fo that it leems to have been on that fpot inacceffible in for- 
 mer days. Near the centre of this triangle, is a fmall fquare edifice 
 of quarried ftones ; and on each fide of the entrance which leads to 
 it from the wall, are the remains of two houfes, both within and 
 without. In thofe lodged the priefts and their families : the fer- 
 vants moft probably on the outfide. A ftrong turf rampart pro- 
 tected alfo the wall from water to water, acrofs a rifing ground, 
 which hath been cut through by a road leading from the Tempul na 
 Anait (as th- edifice is called) a great way into the moor. There is 
 no tradition of the ufe of this place. My learned friend fuppofes 
 it to have been defigned for the worfhip of the Earth, Bendis or 
 Diana, which, according to Hejychius, was fuppofed to be the fame, 
 Plutarch g'ves the fame goddeis the title of Anait, the name of this 
 place of worfhip -, and Pliny fpeaks of a country in Armenia, called 
 Anaitica, from Anaitis, a goddefs in great repute there, where a noble 
 temple had been built, which was plundered of its immenfe riches by 
 the foldiers of Antony in hisPartbian expedition. Paufanias alfo fpeaks 
 of the temple of Diana the Anait. Thefe temples were erected when 
 the purity of theCeltk religion had been debafed by the extravagance 
 
 of. 
 
 341
 
 342 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 of fancy, and idols introduced. Here we may fuppofe that this 
 deity was worfhipped in the utmoft fimplicity. 
 July 22. Proceed on our journey •, pafs over a black and pathlefs tract of 
 
 moor and bog, for about fifteen miles. Dine on a fort Ipot of heath, 
 with that appetite which exercife and the free air never fail to 
 create. Arrive on the banks of Loch-Grifernis, a branch of Loch- 
 fnifart : take boat ; obferve that the ropes for the fifhing-nets are 
 made of the purple melk grafs, the pund-g las of the highlanders, 
 remarkable for lading long without rotting. After a pafTage or 
 a mile, land at Kingsburgh •, immortalized by its miftrefs, the 
 celebrated Flora Mac-donald, the fair proteftrefs of a fugitive 
 adventurer •, who, after fome days concealing himfelf from pur- 
 fuit, in the dilguife of the lady's maid, here flung off the female 
 habit. 
 
 Mr. Mac-donald did me the favor of prefenting me with three very 
 curious pieces of antiquity : an urn, aGlain-naidr, or ferpent-bead, 
 and a Denarius, found not remote from his houfe. The firft is an 
 Urn. nrn of elegant workmanfhip, found in a ftone chefl, formed of fix 
 
 flags as before defcribed : this urn was rilled with allies •, was placed 
 not prone, as that mentioned in the former volume, but with the 
 mouth up, and covered with a light thin ftone. This was difcovered 
 beneath an immenfe cairn. 
 Glain-naidr. The G lain -naidr, or Druidical bead, as it is vulgarly called, is an 
 unique in its kind, being of a triangular fhape ; but, as ufual, made 
 ofglafs, marked with figures of ferpents coiled up. The common 
 people in Wales and in Scotland retain the fame fuperftitions relating 
 to it as the antients, and call it by the name of Serpent -Jlone. The 
 Gauls, taught by their priefls, believed the ftrangeft tales of their 
 
 ferpents,
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 ferpents, defcribed from the profe of Pliny, in a moft fpirited manner, 
 by the ingenious Mr. Ma/on, who thus makes his Druid demand of 
 a iapient brother : 
 
 But tell me yet 
 From the grot of charms and fpells k 
 Where our matron filter dwells j 
 Brennus, has thy holy hand 
 Safely brought the Druid wand, 
 And the potent adder-ftone, 
 Gender'd 'fore the autumnal moon ? 
 When in undulating twine 
 The foaming fnakes prolific join ; 
 When they hifs, and when they bear 
 Their wond'rous egg aloof in air; 
 Thence, before to earth it fall, 
 The Druid in his holy pall, 
 Receives the prize, 
 And inftant flies, 
 
 Follow'd by the envenom'd brood, 
 Till he crofs the filver flood. 
 
 The antients and moderns agree in their belief of its powers -, 
 that good fortune attends the pofleiTor wherever he goes. The 
 ftupid Claudius, that Ludibrium aula; Augusti, put to death a 
 Gaulijlo * knight, for no other reafon than, that he carried an ovum 
 anguinum, a ferpent-ftone, about him. The vulgar of the prefent ao-e 
 attribute to it other virtues ; fuch as its curing the bite of the adder, 
 and giving eafe to women in child-birth, if tied about the knee. 
 
 * Plittiit lib. xxix. c. 3. Equitem Romanum e Vocontiis, a people of Dauphiny. 
 
 So 
 
 343
 
 344 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 So difficult is it to root out follies that have the fanftion of an- 
 tiquity. 
 Denarius. The lad favor that I was indebted to Mr. Mac-donald for, is a 
 
 Denarius, of the Emperor Trajan, found on a moor near the more of m 
 Loch-Grifernis ; a probable, but not a certain evidence that the Ro- 
 mans had landed in this ifland. We have no lights from hiftory to 
 enable us to fay what was done during the reign of that emperor : 
 in the fucceeding, Adrian reduced the bounds of the empire to the 
 place flill called his wall, and loft all communication with the 
 iflands ; but in the following reign they were extended to their 
 antient bounds, and the ifl.es might be vifited from the Glota ejlua- 
 rium, the ftation of the fleet, and the money in queftion loft at that 
 time in Skie. But its being found there may be accounted for by 
 another fuppofition : that of its having been the booty of an ifland 
 foldier, taken from the Romans in fome of the numberlefs fkirmilhes 
 in one of the following reigns, and brought here as a mark of 
 victory. 
 Drin king-shell. I obferve that the great fcallop-fhell is made ufe of in the dairies of 
 this country for the fkimming of milk. In old times, it had a more 
 honorable place, being admitted into the halls of heroes, and was the 
 cup of their feftivity. As Do&or Mac-pberfon exprefles it, 'The whole 
 f tribe filled the hall of the chieftain ; trunks of trees covered with 
 1 mois were laid in form of tables from one end to the other ; whole 
 ' beeves or deer were roafted and laid before them on rough boards, 
 
 * or hurdles of rods woven together : the pipers played while they 
 
 * fat at table, and filence was obferved by all. After the feaft was 
 
 * over, they had ludicrous entertainments j a practice ftill con- 
 
 ' tinued
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 ' tinued in part of the highlands : the females retired, and the old 
 * and young warriors fat in order, down from the chieftain, accord- 
 ' ing to their proximity in blood to him ; the harp was then touched, 
 ' the long was raifed, and the Sliga-crecbin, or the drink ing- fhell, 
 e went round.' 
 
 Am lodged this night in the fame bed that formerly received the 
 unfortunate Charles Stuart. Here he lay one night, after having been 
 for fome time in a female habit under the protection of Flora Macdo- 
 ?iald. Near this place he refumed the drefs of his own fex by the aiTifl- 
 ance of the mafter of the houfe, Mr. AlexanderMacdonald, who fuffered 
 a long imprifonment on that account ; but neither the fear of punilh- 
 ment, nor the promifes of reward, could induce him to infringe the 
 rights of hofpitality, by betraying an unhappy man who had fluno- 
 himfelf under his protection. 
 
 Leave liingjlmrgh, travel on a good horfe road, pafs by a cairn, J ULY 2 3« 
 with a great ftone at the top, called the high-lione of Ugg. I muft 
 remark, that the Danes left behind them in many places the names Danish names. 
 of their deities, their heroes, and their bards : thus in the rock Hum- 
 bla is perpetuated the name of Humblus*, one of their antient kings; 
 the ille of Gunna \ alTumed the title of one of the Valkyrie, the fatal 
 fillers •, Ulva takes its name from the bear-begotten hero, Ulvo J; 
 and the ftone of Ugg feems to have been erected in memory of the 
 poet Uggerus ||. 
 
 Beneath is the fertile bottom of Ugg, laughing with corn : afcend 
 
 • Sax. Gram. 5. f Yorfaus, 36. % Sax. Gram. 193. 
 
 1| Sax. Gram. 88. 
 
 Y y a hill,
 
 346 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 a hill, and on the other fide defcend into the parifh of Kilmore] 
 Muccastot. t he granary of Skie. Leave, on the left, Muggafiot, the principaf 
 houfe of Sir Alexander Mac-donald, lineally defcended from the 
 lords of the ifles : all the eftates at prefent pofTefTed by that 
 gentleman were bellowed by John, the lad Regulus, and Earl of Rofs, 
 on his brother Hugh, and confirmed by a charter dated at Aros, 
 in the year 1449, and afterwards by James IV. at Sterling, in 
 
 1495- 
 Monastery. Beneath the houfe was the lake of St. Columba, now drained •, once 
 
 noted for a monaftery of great antiquity, placed in an ifland. The 
 
 ruins evince its age, being built with great ftones, without mortar, 
 
 in the manner cuftomary in the times of Druidifnti The cells and 
 
 feveral rooms are (till very diftinguifhable. The chapel is of a later 
 
 date, and built with mortar, as are all the other chapels in Skie, and 
 
 in the little iflands along its mores : thefe chapels were ferved by the 
 
 monks : the place they landed on, in order to difcharge thefe 
 
 religious duties, was called Pein-orah, or the land of prayer •, for 
 
 after folemnly recommending themfelves, and the objed of their 
 
 journey, to the most high, they feparated, and took their refpec- 
 
 tive routes. 
 
 A wedding. Purfue our journey. A minifter, who gave us the pleafure of 
 
 his company, obferved to us, that a couple were in purfuitof him 
 
 in order to have their nuptials celebrated : unwilling to be the caufe 
 
 of deferring their happinefs, I begged he would not on my account 
 
 delay the ceremony : we took pofTeflion of a cottage ; the minifter 
 
 laid before them the duties of the marriage flate, afked, whether they 
 
 took each other willingly ? joined their hands, and concluded with a 
 
 prayer. I. obferved that the bridegroom put all the powers of
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 magic to defiance, for he was married with both fhoes tied with 
 their latchet. 
 
 Not many years have elapfed fince it was cuftomary in fome parts 
 of the N. of Scotland for the lairds to interfere in the marriages of 
 their vaffals, and direct the pairing of their people. Thefe ftrange 
 tyrannies, thefe opprefTions of inclination, feem to have occafioned 
 the law of Alexander the I ft, to .prevent fuch a foundation for do- 
 meftic mifery : it is indeed the cafe of the widow only that he took 
 into confideration, Na widow? fays the ftatute, fould be compelled to 
 marie giffcbe pleafe to live without ane hufband, butfche fould give fecu- 
 ritie that fcbe fall not marie without confent of hir lord, gif fche holds of 
 ane other than the king. 
 
 Take a repaft at the houfe of Sir Alexander Mac-donald's piper, Pipers. 
 
 who, according to antient cuftom, by virtue of his office, holds 
 his lands free. His dwelling, like many others in this country, 
 conlifts of feveral apartments ; the firft for his cattle during winter, 
 the fecond is his hall, the third for the reception of ftrangers, and 
 the fourth for the lodging of his family; all the rooms within one 
 another. 
 
 The owner was quite mafter of his inftrument, and treated us 
 with feveral tunes. In feudal times the Mac-donalds had in this 
 ifland a college of pipers •, and the Macleods had the like ; thefe had 
 regular appointments in land, and received pupils from all the neigh- 
 boring chieftains. The Mac-karters were chief pipers to the firft ; 
 the Mac-krumens to the laft. 
 
 The bagpipe has been a favorite inftrument with the Scots, and 
 has two varieties : the one with fhort pipes, played on with the 
 fingers ; the other with long pipes and founded with the mouth : 
 
 Y y 2 this 
 
 m
 
 348 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 this is the loudeft and mod ear-piercing of all mufic, is the genuine 
 highland pipe, and fuited well the warlike genius of the people, 
 rouzed their courage to battle, alarmed them when fecure, and col- 
 lected them when fcattered - 3 folaced them in their long and painful 
 marches, and in times of peace kept up the memory of the gallantry 
 of their anceftors, by tunes compofed after fignal victories ; and 
 too often kept up the fpirit of revenge, by airs exprefiive of 
 defeats or mafiacres from rival clans. One of the tunes, wild and 
 tempeftuous, is faid to have been played fet the bloody battle of 
 Harlaw, when Donald, lord of the ifles, in 1410, oppofed the 
 powers of James I. under the conduct of Alexander Stuart, Earl of 
 Mar. 
 
 Neither of thefe inftruments were the invention of the Banes, or, 
 as is commonly fuppofed, of any of the Northern nations ; for their 
 antient writers prove them to have been animated by the clangor 
 tubarum. Notwithstanding they have had their fack-pipe long 
 amongit them, as their old fongs * prove, yet we cannot allow 
 them the honor of inventing this melodious inftrument : but muft 
 affert, that they borrowed it from the invaded Caledonians. We mud 
 {till go farther, and deprive even that antient race of the credit ; 
 and derive its origin from the mild climate of Italy, perhaps from 
 
 Greece. 
 
 There is now in Rome a mod beautiful Bas-relievo, a Grecian 
 fculpture of the higheft antiquity ; of a bagpiper playing on his 
 inftrument, exactly like a modern highlander. The Greeks had 
 their Ao-xauAws, ot inftrument compofed of a pipe and blown-up 
 
 # From Dr. Soiavdsr. 
 
 Jkin :
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 /kin: the Romans in all probability borrowed it from them, and 
 introduced it among their fwains, who Hill ufe it under the names 
 of piva and cornu mufa *. 
 
 That matter of mufick, Nero, ufed onef ; and had not the 
 empire been fo fuddenly deprived of that great artiil, he would 
 (as he gracioufly declared his intention) have treated the people 
 with a concert •, and, among other curious instruments, would 
 have introduced the Utricularius, or bagpipe. Nero perifhed, but 
 the figure of the inftrument is preferved on one of his coins, 
 but highly improved by that great mafter. It has the bag and two 
 of the vulgar pipes, but was blown with a bellows, like an organ, 
 and had on one fide a row of nine unequal pipes, refemblino- 
 the fyrinx of the god Pan j\ The bagpipe, in the unimproved 
 Hate, is alfo reprefented in an antient fculpture, and appears to 
 have had two long pipes or drones §, and a fingle fhort pipe for 
 the fingers. Tradition fays, that the kind played on by the mouth 
 was introduced by the Danes. As theirs was wind mufic, we will 
 admit that they might have made improvement, but more we cannot 
 allow : they were fkilled in the ufe of the trumpet 5 the Highlanders 
 in the Piobb, or bagpipe. 
 
 Non tuba in ufu illis, conjedla at tibia in utrem 
 
 Dat belli fignum, et martem vocat horrida in arma j|. 
 
 * From Dottor Burney. f Suetonius, lib. vi. c. 54. 
 
 %' Monfaucon, Antiq. Suppl. iii. 188, tab. 73. f. 2. § Ibid. f. \l 
 
 || Mehini topog. Scoriae* 
 
 Proceed 
 
 349 

 
 50 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Proceed two miles farther-, pafs under a high hill, with a pre- 
 cipitous front, ftyled Sgor-mcre, or, the great projection •, and 
 immediately after reach Dun-tuilm caftle, or, the caftle of the 
 round grrjfy eminence, placed at the verge of a high precipice over 
 the fea -, the ground adjacent formed of fine verdant turf. 
 
 Find our veffel at anchor under the little rocky Elan-tuilm, lofty, 
 and of a picturefque form. 
 
 Take leave of feveral gentlemen, who, according to the wor- 
 thy cuftom of thefe illands, convoyed us from place to place, and 
 never left us till they had delivered us over to the next hofpitable 
 roof, or feen us fafely embarked. Among others who did me 
 this honor, was Doctor Jchn Maclean, whofe family have been 
 hereditary phyficians, for fome centuries, to that of Mac-donald. 
 They have been educated at the expence of -the chieftain ; and re- 
 ceive to this day an appointment in land, holding the farm of 
 Shulifta at trie gates of the antient refidence of the Mac-donalds, the 
 caftle of Dun-tuilm, which the Doctor enjoys together with a 
 penfion from the late Sir James Mac-donald. 
 Dun-tuilm Dun-tuilm caftle is a ruin, but was inhabited as late as 17 1 5. 
 
 It was the original feat of the Mac-donalds, in Skie : near it, a hill, 
 called Cnock an eirick, or, the bill of pleas : fuch eminences are 
 frequent near .the houfes of all the great men, for on thefe, by the 
 afiiftance of their friends, they determined all differences between 
 their people : the place was held facred, and to the refpect paid 
 to the decifions delivered from the fummit, may in fome meafure 
 be attributed the ftrict obedience of a fierce and military race to 
 their chieftain. 
 
 Near 
 
 CASTLE.
 
 HEBRIDES. 35 i 
 
 Near this place was pointed to me the fpot where an inceftuous 
 pair (a brother and filler) had been buried alive, by order of the 
 chieftain. 
 
 In the rocks are abundance of fmall compreffed Ammonite, and 
 on the fhores faw fragments of white Quartz, the hedlic ftone fo 
 often mentioned by Martin. 
 
 Skie is the largeft of the Hebrides, being above fixty meafured Name of 
 
 miles long \ the breadth unequal, by reafon of the numbers of Skie. 
 
 lochs, that penetrate far on both fides. It is fuppofcd by fome to 
 have been the Eaftern JEbudce of the antient- ; by others, to have 
 been the Dumna. The modern name is of Norwegian origin, de- 
 rived from Ski, a mi ft ; and from the clouds (that almoft con- 
 ftantly hang on the tops of its lofty hills) was ftyled, Ealand 
 Jkiamcb, or, the cloudy ifland *. No epithet could better fuit the 
 place ; for, except in the fummer feafon, there is fcarcely a week 
 of fair weather : the fummers themfelves are alio generally wet, 
 and feldom warm. 
 
 The Wefterly wind blows here more regularly than any other, Climate. 
 
 and arriving charged with vapour from the vaft Atlantic, never 
 fails to dafti the clouds it wafts on the lofty fummits of the hills 
 of Cuchullin, and their contents deluge the ifland in a manner 
 unknown in other places. What is properly called the rainy 
 feafon commences in Augtijl : the rains begin with moderate winds; 
 which grow ftronger and ftronger till the autumnal equinox, when 
 they rage with incredible fury. 
 
 The hufbandman then fighs over the ruins of his vernal labors : Distress. 
 
 * D.O&or Mac-pherfon, z?2. 
 
 fees
 
 352 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 kes his crops feel the injury of climate: fome laid proflrate ; 
 the more ripe corn flied by the violence of the elements. The 
 poor forefee famine, and confequential difeafe : the humane tackf- 
 lnen agonize over dillrefTes, that inability, not want of inclina- 
 tion, deprives them of the power of remedying. The nearer calls 
 of family and children naturally firfl excite their attention : to 
 maintain and to educate are all their hopes, for that of accumu- 
 lating wealth is beyond their expectation : fo the poor are left to 
 Providence's care : they prowl like other animals along the fhores 
 to pick np limpets and other fhell-fifh, the cafual repafls of hun- 
 dreds during part of the year in thefe unhappy iflands. Hun- 
 dreds thus annually drag through the feafon a wretched life: and 
 numbers, unknown, in all parts of the weftern highlands (nothing 
 local is intended) fall beneath the prerTure, fome of hunger, more of 
 the putrid fever, the epidemic of the coafts, originating from un- 
 wholeibme food, the dire effects ofneceflity. Moral and innocent 
 victims ! who exult in the change, firft finding that place where the 
 wicked ceafe from troubling^ and where the weary are at reft. 
 
 The farmer labors to remedy this diftrefs to the belt of his 
 power, but the wetnefs of the land late in fpring prevents him 
 from putting into the ground the early feed of future crops, bear 
 and fmall oats : the laft are fitteft for the climate : they bear the 
 fury of the winds better than other grain, and require lefs ma- 
 nure, a deficiency in this ifland. Poverty prevents him from 
 making experiments in rural ceconomy : the ill fuccefs of a few 
 made by the more opulent, determines him to follow the old tract, 
 as attended with more certainty, unwilling, like the dog in the 
 
 fable,
 
 H E B R I D E S. 
 
 fable, to grafp at the fhadovv and lofe the fubftance, even poor as 
 it is. 
 
 The produce of the crops very rarely are in any degree pro- 
 portioned to the wants of the inhabitants : golden feafons have 
 happened, when they have had fuperfluity ; but the years of fa- 
 mine are as ten to one. The helps of the common years are Po- 
 tatoes : it is difficult to fay whether the diicovery of America by 
 the Spaniards has contributed to preferve more lives by the intro- 
 duction of this vegetable ; or to have caufed more to perifli by 
 the infatiable luft after the pretious metals of the new world. 
 
 The difficulties the farmer undergoes in this bad climate are 
 unknown in the South ; there he fows his feed, and fees it flourifh. 
 beneath a benign fun and fecured from every invafion. Here 
 a wet fky brings a reluctant crop * : the ground, inclofed only with 
 turf mounds, acceflible to every animal : A continual watch em- 
 ploys numbers of his people : fome again are occupied in repair- 
 ing the damages fuftained by their houfes from ftorms the preced- 
 ing year ; others are laboring at the turberies, to provide fuel to 
 keep off the rigor of the fevere feafon : or in fencing the na- 
 tural (the only) graflfes of the country to preferve their cattle 
 from ftarving - t which are the true and proper flaple of thefe 
 iflands. 
 
 The quantity of corn raifed in tolerable feafons in this illand, 
 is efteemed to be about nine thoufand bolls. The number of 
 
 * The moment the corn is cut down, a certain number of (heaves are gathered in 
 a heap, and thatched on the top : the firft dry moment that happens, the thatch is 
 taken off, and the fheaves now dry, are carried in j and this is repeated till the whole 
 crop is fecured, 
 
 Z z mouths 
 
 351
 
 354 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Numbers op mouths to confume them, in the Prefbtyery of Skie*, near thirteen 
 inhabitants, thoufand : migrations, and depreflion of fpirit, the laft a common 
 caufe of depopulation, having fince the year 1750 reduced the 
 number from fifteen thoufand to between twelve and thirteen : one 
 thoufand having croffed the Atlantic, others funk beneath poverty, 
 or in defpair, ceafed to obey the firft great command, encrease 
 and multiply. 
 
 In that year the whole rent of Skie was three thoufand five 
 hundred pounds. By an unnatural force fome of the rents are 
 now doubled and trebled. People long out of all habit of in- 
 duftry, and ufed to the convivial tables of their chieftain, were 
 unable inftantly to fupport lb new a burden : in time not very 
 long preceding that, they felt the return of fome of their rents: 
 they were enabled to keep hofpitality ; to receive their chieftain 
 with a well covered board -, and to feed a multitude of poor. 
 Many of the greater tackmen were of the fame blood with their 
 chieftains -, they were attached to them by the ties of confangui- 
 nity as well as affection : they felt from them the firft act of op- 
 preflion, as Cafar did the wound from his beloved Brutus. 
 
 The high advance of the price of cattle is a plea for the high 
 advance of rents j but the fituation of the tackman here is par- 
 ticular : he is a gentleman, and boaits the fame blood with his 
 laird: (of five hundred fighting men that followed Mackod in 
 1745 in his Majefty's army, four hundred were or his kindred) 
 has been cherifhed by him for a feries or years often with paternal 
 
 * Which comprehends Rum> Cannaj, Muck and Eg?, beiides the feven parishes 
 in this great iiland, 
 
 affection :
 
 HEBRIDES, 
 
 affection : has been ufed to fuch luxuries as the place affords ; and 
 cannot iriftantly fink from a good board to the hard fare of the 
 common farmer. When the chieftains riot in all the luxuries of 
 South Britain, he thinks himfelf entitled to fhare a due degree of 
 the good things of this life, and not to be for ever confined to 
 the diet of Brochan or the compotation of Whijky. Durino- the 
 feudal reign their love for their chieftains induced them to bear 
 many things, at prefent intolerable. They were their pride and their 
 glory : they {trained every nerve in fupport of them, in the fame 
 manner as the French through vanity, refufe nothing to aggrandize 
 their Grand Monarque. 
 
 Refentment drove many to feek a retreat beyond the Atlantic : 
 they fold their flock, and in numbers made their firft effay. They 
 found, or thought they found, while their paffions were warm, an 
 happy change of fituation : they wrote in terms favouring of ro- 
 mance, an account of their fituation: their friends cauo-ht the 
 contagion •, and numbers followed ; and others were preparing to 
 follow their example. The tackfmen from a motive of inde- 
 pendency : the poor from attachment ; and from excefs of mifery. 
 Policy and humanity, as I am informed, have of late checked 
 this fpirit fo detrimental to the public. The wifdom of legifia- 
 ture may perhaps fall on fome methods to conciliate the affections 
 of a valuable part of the community : it is unbecoming my little 
 knowlege of the country to prefume to point out the methods. 
 It is to be hoped the head will, while time permits, recollect the 
 ufe of the moft diftant members. 
 
 The proper products of this and all the Hebrides, are men and 
 cattle : the ufe of the firft need not be infilled on, for England 
 
 Z&2 cannot 
 
 355
 
 35 6 A VOYAGE tot -he 
 
 cannot have forgot its fad deficiency of recruits towards the end of 
 the late long and deftructive war: and what it owed in the courfe 
 cf it to North Britain. In refpect to cattle, this in particular bears, 
 the pre-eminence of having the largeft breed of all the highlands. 
 The greater tenants keep their cattle during winter in what are 
 called winter parks, the drieft and bed ground they have: here 
 they are kept till April, except the winter proves very hard, when 
 they are foddered with ftraw : in April the farmer turns them to the 
 moor-grafs (cotton-grafs) which fprings firft, and at night drives 
 them into the dry grounds again. 
 
 The poorer tenants, who have no winter parks, are under the. 
 neceflity of keeping the cattle under the fame roof with them--- 
 felves during night ; and often are obliged to keep them alive with, 
 the meal defined for their families. . The cows are often forced 9 
 through want of other food, to have recourfe to the fhores, and 
 feed on the fea-plants at low water : by inftinct they will, at ebb 
 of tide, haften from the moors, notwithstanding they are not within 
 fight of the fea. 
 
 One of the greater farms in Skie is thus (locked : 
 Fifty cows, and their, followers, viz. 20 young heifers, fit for 
 bull-, 30 ditto, three years old; 35 ditto, two years old ; 40 year- 
 lings, or fturks. Of thefe the owner can fell only twenty cows at . 
 forty- five millings each at an average; can make butter and cheefe 
 for his family, but none for fale, for their belt cow will not yield 
 above three Englijh quarts of milk- at a meal. Such a farm was , 
 formerly rented for fixteen pounds a year, at prefent is raifed to 
 fifty. The greateft .rent in the iiland is eighty pounds, but the 
 medium from thirty to. forty.
 
 H E B R I D E S. 
 
 In She when a tackfrnan has a greater farm than he can ma- 
 nage, he often fets off part to a Bowman or Aireach, who takes 
 care of the ftock of cattle on a certain tract ; and b:nds himfelf 
 to give to the tackfrnan every year four Hone of cheefe, and two 
 of butter, from each couple of milch cows. If there is any 
 arable ground, he is provided with horfes and a plough •, and 
 feed fufficient to fow it ; and receives part of the crop -, and fome 
 additional grafs ground for two or three milch cows, for his 
 trouble. 
 
 There is certainly much ill management in the direction of the 
 farms : a tackfrnan of fifty pounds a year often keeps twenty fer- 
 vants •, the lazieft of creatures, for not one will do the lead thino- 
 that does not belong to his department. Moil of them are mar- 
 ried, as in Hay. Their common food is Brocban, a thick meal- 
 pudding, with milk, butter or treacle; or a thinner fort, called 
 Eafocb, taken with their bannocs. This number of fervants 
 feemed to anfwer the retainers in great families before that parni-. 
 cions cuftom was abolifhed by Henry _Y 11; in feudal times they 
 v/ere kept here for the fame bad end. The caufe is now no more? 
 but the habit cannot fuddenly be fhaken off; charity forbids one . 
 to wifh it, till fome employ is thought of for them ; otherwife, 
 like the. poor cottagers before-mentioned, ftarving muft be their 
 portion. 
 
 Cattle is at prefent the only trade of the ifiand : about four 
 thoufand are annually fold, from forty millings to three pounds a 
 head. The lofs fuftained in She by the feverity of the laft win- 
 ter, and the general failure of the crops the preceding feafon, 
 
 amounted 
 
 357
 
 353 
 
 A VOYAGE to t h * 
 
 amounted to five thoufand j perhaps in fome meafure owing to the 
 farms being over-flocked. 
 
 About two hundred and fifty horfes are purchafed from hence 
 
 every year. 
 
 Here are no fheep but what are kept for home confumption, 
 or for the wool for the cloathing of the inhabitants. Hogs are 
 not introduced here yet, for want of proper food for thofe ani- 
 mals. 
 
 Goats mi^ht turn to good advantage if introduced into the 
 few wooded parts of the ifland. Thefe animals might be procured 
 from the neighborhood of Lochnefs ; for being naturalized to the 
 climate, would fucceed better than any imported from the fouthern 
 parts of Europe, or from Barbary. As an inducement, I mult 
 inform the natives of the Hebrides that in the Alpine part of Wales 
 a well-haired goatfkin fells for feven and fix-pence or half a gui; ea. 
 
 About three hundred tuns of kelp are made here annuallv, 
 but it is thought not to anfwer, as it robs the land of fo much 
 manure. 
 
 There are not above two or three dated houfes in the ifland ; 
 the general thatch is fern, root and ftalk, which will laft above 
 twenty years. 
 U u plants. T ne r00ts °f tne owbus tuberofus y the cor-meille or carmel of the 
 
 Highlanders, are in high efteem in this and the other iflands : they 
 fometimes chew them, at others make a fermented liquor with them. 
 They imagine that they promote expectoration, and that they are 
 very efficacious in curing any diforders of the bread or lungs: 
 they alio ufe it as a remedy againft hunger, chewing it as fome of 
 our pooreft people do tobacco *, to put off that uneafy fenfation. 
 
 • Vide Mr. Sfence's life of Mr. Robert Hill, taylor, p. 102. 
 
 Ligujlicum
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 359 
 
 Liguflicum fcoticum, Scotch parfley, or the /hunts of this ifland, is 
 alfo much valued ; in medicine, the root is reckoned a good carmi- 
 native, and an infufion of the leaves is thought a good puroe for 
 calves. It is befides ufed as a food, either as a fallad, raw, or boiled 
 as greens. 
 
 Very few fu perflations exift here at prefent : pretenders to Superstitions. 
 fecond-fight are quite out of repute, except among the mofl 
 ignorant, and at prefent are very fhy of making boaft of their 
 faculties. 
 
 Poor Browny, or Robin Good-fellow, is alfo put to flight. This 
 ferviceable iprite was wont to clean the houfes, helped to churn, 
 thrafhed the corn, and would belabor all who pretended to make a 
 jeft of him. He was reprefented as Itout and blooming, had fine 
 long flowing hair, and went about with a wand in his hand. He. 
 was the very counter-part of Milton's Lubbar-fend, who 
 
 Tells how the drudging goblin fweat 
 To earn his cream-bewl duly fet ; 
 When in one night, ere glimpfe of morn, 
 His fhadowy flale hath thrafh'd the corn 
 That ten day-lab ; rers could not end ; 
 Then lays him down the lubbar fiend, 
 And ftretch'd along the chimney's lengthy 
 Balks at the fire his hairy ftrength. 
 
 The Gruagach is a deity in form reprefenting the laft -, and who 
 was worfhipped in old times by libations of milk ; and milkmaids 
 flill retain the cuftom by pouring feme on certain Hones that bear 
 his name. Gruagach fignifies the fair-haired, and is fuppofed by 
 
 Mr ft 
 
 GRUACACHr
 
 .■» 
 
 So A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Mr. Macqueen * to have been an emblem of Apollo, or the Sun •, and 
 to correfpond with the epithet ^ua-^ofAos. A flone was dug up 
 near MuJJelburgh, dedicated Apollini Granno, Grianich the Sunny, 
 an epithet probably borrowed from the Caledonians. The fame deity 
 might alio receive the title of Galaxius from the libation of milk ft ill 
 retained in thofe parts *. 
 Taghairm. A wild fpecies of magic was pradlifed in the diftrict of'Trotlemefs, 
 
 that was attended with a horrible iblemnity. A family who pre- 
 tended to oracular knowlege practifed thefe ceremonies. In this 
 country is a vaft cataract, whole waters falling from a high rock, 
 jet fo far as to form a dry hollow beneath, between them and the 
 precipice. One of thefe impoftors was fowed up in the hide of an 
 ox, and to add terror to the ceremony, was placed in this concavity: 
 the trembling enquirer was brought to the place, where the made 
 and the roaring of the waters, encreafed the dread of the oc- 
 cafion. The queftion is put, and the pcrfon in the hide de- 
 livers his anfwer, and fo ends this fpecies of divination ityled 
 Taghairm. 
 
 But all thefe idle tales are totally exploded, and good-fenfe and 
 polifhed manners prevale, inftead of that barbarity which in 1598 
 induced James VI. to fend here a new colony to civilize the 
 natives ; who were fo little difpofed to receive their inftructors, that 
 his majefty was in the end obliged to defift from his defign -f-. At 
 prefent the ifland forms part of the fhire of Invernefs. The fheriff 
 v of that county appoints a fubftitute who refides here, and takes 
 
 • See Mr. Macqueenh curious account in the Appendix to the third volume. 
 f Jonjioni rerum Britan. hift. lib* viii. p. 249. 
 
 cognizance
 
 H E B R I D E 
 
 S6i 
 
 cognizance of fmall difputes about property, and petty crimes ; but, 
 on account of the diftance, avoids harraffing the inhabitants, by 
 requiring their attendance on the Lords of Seflions and Judiciary 
 Courts at Invernefs, the jurymen being felected from among the 
 gentry and inhabitants of the mainland. 
 
 After a moft tempeftuous night, loofe from our harbour at two July 24. 
 
 o'clock at noon. Go through a narrow channel at the North end, 
 , a rock lying in the middle. Have to the weft a view of Fijher's 
 rock ; and to the North a ftrange chain of rocky ides, very fingular 
 in their appearance ; and varying in their forms in the proceis of 
 our courfe. The higheft is called Bordb-mor-mhic-leod> or Macleod's 
 great table *. Another is called Flada. On the firft Mr. Thompfon 
 took in our abfence the little Petrel, which with numbers of others Little Petrel. 
 were lurking beneath the loofe ftones, and betrayed themfelves 
 by their loud twittering. Thefe are the left of palmipeds ; the 
 dread of mariners, who draw a certain prefage of a ftorm from their 
 appearance •■> for they always collect in numbers at the approach of 
 a tempeft beneath the ftern ; running along the waves in the wake 
 of the fhip, with a fvviftnefs incredible. This bird is the Camilla of 
 the ocean : like her, 
 
 She fwept the feas, and as fhe fkim'd along, 
 Her flying feet unbath'd on billows hung. 
 
 The feamen call them Mother Cary's chickens : fome devotees ftyled 
 
 * Two views of thefe wild rocks (2) as they appeared from Dun-Tuilm ; the 
 other (3) as they appeared from the Eaft in our paflage, are engraved at the bot- 
 tom of the view in Loth-jitm* 
 
 A a a them
 
 S 62 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 them Petrels, from the attempt of the apoftle St. Peter to tread 
 the water. They are ieen in all parts of the ocean ; and were not 
 overlooked by the antients, who named them Cypfelli, and take notice 
 of this remarkable particular. 
 
 Mr. Thompfon alfo fhot one of thofe enormous feals, or the o-reat 
 fcaXfyn. quad. No. 266 -, but to my great regret it funk as foon as 
 killed. 
 
 Have a full view of the ifle of Lewis, the Lodhus of the 
 Norwegians : and off it a groupe of little ifles called Slant, or Schant, 
 and fomewhat to the north of thofe is the fine harbour, and 
 town of Stornaway. It was my intention to have (leered for 
 that port, but was diffuaded from it by the accounts I had from 
 the gentlemen of Skie, that a putrid fever raged there with great 
 violence. 
 
 Direct our courfe for Loch-Broom, in the county of Rofs. An 
 eafy breeze carries us off the cape Ruth an ri, in the maps Row-rie* 
 About eight o'clock in the morning of 
 July 25. — find ourfelves near a confiderable number of fmall ides, with a 
 
 moft dreary appearance, mifcalled the Summer ijlands. Within is a 
 great bay fix miles broad and eight deep, bounded by vaft and 
 barren mountains, patched with fnow. The wind chops about and 
 blows very frefh, fo that after many teizing tacks, about nine 
 o'clock in the evening drop anchor under ifle Martin, in the 
 bottom of the bay, which is here called Loch-Kinnard. To the 
 South is a hill, which we landed on, and afcended, and faw on the 
 Loch-Broom. other fide great loch Broom, or Braon, narrow, of a vaft depth, and 
 running many miles up the country. At its head receives a river 
 frequented by falmon in April. 
 
 This
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 This parifh is one of thelargefton the mainland of 'Scotland, being 
 thirty-fix miles long and twenty broad. It has in it feven places of 
 worlhip, three catechifts *, and about two thoufand examinable 
 perfons : but is deftitute of a parochial fchool. None of the peo- 
 ple except the gentry underftand Englijh. The country is inhabited 
 by the Mackenzie*, even quite from Kintail, whofe chieftain is the 
 Earl of Seaforth. 
 
 It is a land of mountains, a mixture of rock and heath, with a few 
 flats between them producing bear and black oats, but never fuffi- 
 cient to fupply the wants of the inhabitants. 
 
 Cattle are the great fupport of the country, and are fold, to 
 graziers who come for them even as far as from Craven in Yorkflrire, 
 at the rate of thirty fhillings to three pounds a head. A great deal 
 of butter and cheefe is fold to the bufles. Land is let here by the 
 Davoch or half Davoch ; the laft confifts of ninety-fix Scotch acres of 
 arable land, fuch as it is, with a competent quantity of mountain 
 and grazing ground. This maintains fixty cows and their followers; 
 and is rented for fifty-two pounds a year. To manage this the far- 
 mer keeps eight men and eight women fervants ; and an overfeer, 
 who are all paid partly in money and partly in kind. The common 
 fervants have thirty fhillings per annum, houfe, garden, fix bolls 
 of meal and fhoes. The dairy maids thirteen fhillings and four 
 pence and fhoes : the common drudges fix and eight pence and 
 fhoes. 
 
 m * A catechift is one who goes from houfe to houfe to inftru<3 the people in the 
 principles of religion, and in the catechifms, approved by the general affembly ; 
 are appointed by its committee, and are fupported out of his majefty's bounty. 
 
 A a a 2 The 
 
 363
 
 3^4 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 The tender cattle are houfed during winter. The common ma^ 
 nure of the country is dung, or fea-wrack. 
 July 27. § t jfl on t, oar d. The weather very bad. 
 
 July 28. Land at the bottom of the bay, in 
 
 Ross-shire. 
 
 Procure horfes. Obferve fome houfes built for the veteran foldiers 
 and failors ; but as ufual, all deferted. Proceed up Strath-Kennard y 
 which with Coygach that bounds the north fide of the bay is a for- 
 feited eftate, and unalienably annexed to the crown. The commif- 
 fioners give all pofiible encouragement to the tenants ; and have 
 power to grant longer leafes than the lairds are inclined to do, which 
 keeps the people under the government contented, and baniflies 
 from their minds all thoughts of migration. 
 
 Kindnefs and hofpitality poffefs the people of thefe parts. We 
 fcarce paflfed a farm but the good woman, long before our approach, 
 fallied out and flood on the road fide, holding out to us a bowl of 
 milk or whey. 
 
 Afcend a very high mountain, and pafs through a birch wood, 
 over a pretty little loch : various other woods of the fame kind 
 were fcattered over the bottoms ; but the trees were fmall. Roots of 
 pines filled all the moors, but I faw none of thofe trees {landing. Pafs 
 under fome great precipices of limeftone, mixed with marble : from 
 hence a moft tremendous view of mountains of flupendous height, 
 and generally of conoid forms. I never faw a country that feemed to 
 have been fo torn and convulfed : the mock, whenever it happened, 
 {hook off all that vegetates : among thefe afpiring heaps of barren- 
 
 nefs,
 
 3XXCSL 
 
 ■314- 
 
 ( (>/'//// j Aewaoca 
 
 (H^emc/<7?i deamaidate 
 
 //~,r, /A,&/£.'je/ . 
 
 /
 
 HEBRIDES. 3 6 5 
 
 nefs, the fugar- loaf hill of Suil-bhein made a confpicuous figure: at 
 their feet, the blacknefs of the moors by no means afiifted to chear 
 our ideas. Enter Assynt, in 
 
 Sutherland: 
 
 Ride by Loch-Camloch ; enjoy fome diverfity of the fcene, for it was 
 prettily decorated with little wooded iflands. Reach Led-beg^ where 
 we obtained quarters, and rough hofpitality. 
 
 This country is environed with mountains ; and all the ftrata near 
 their bafe, and in the bottoms, are compofed of white marble, fine White marble, 
 as the Parian : houfes are built with it, and walls raifed ; burnt it is 
 the manure of the country ; but oftener nature diffolves, and pre- 
 fents it ready prepared to the lazy farmer. 
 
 This tract leems the refidence of floth ; the people almofl torpid 
 with idlenefs, and moft wretched : their hovels moil miferable, 
 made of poles wattled and covered with thin fods. There is not 
 corn raifed fufficient to fupply half the wants of the inhabitants : 
 climate confpires with indolence to make matters worfe; yet there 
 is much irnproveable land here in a ftate of nature : but till 
 famine pinches they will not beflir themfelves : they are content 
 with little at prefent, and are thoughtlefs of futurity ; perhaps 
 on the motive of Turhjh vaiTals, who are opprefied in proportion 
 to their improvements. Difpirited and driven to defpair by bad 
 management, crowds were now palling, emaciated with hunger, to 
 the Eaftern coaft, on the report of a fhip being there loaden 
 with meal. Numbers of the miferables of this country were now 
 migrating : they wandered in a ftate of defperation ; too poor to 
 
 P a y>
 
 3^6 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 pay, they madly fell themfelves for their paffage, preferring a 
 temporary bondage in a ftrange land, to ftarving for life in their 
 native foil. 
 Prophecy. Every country has had its prophets : Greece its Cajfandra, Rome 
 
 its Sibyls, England its Nixon, Wales its Robin Ddu, and the Highlands 
 their Kenneah Oaur. Kenneah long fince predicted the migrations in 
 the'fe terms : * Whenever a Mac-cleane with long hands, a Frazier 
 with a black fpot on his face, a Mac-gregor with the fame on his 
 knee, and a club-footed Mac-cleod, of Rafa, mould have exifted -, 
 whenever there mould have been fucceffively three Mac-donalds of 
 the name of John, and threcMac-kinnons of the fame chriftian name; 
 oppreffors would appear in the country, and the people change 
 their own land for a ftrange one.' The predictions, fay the good 
 wives, have been fulfilled, and not a fingle breach in the oracular 
 effufions of Kenneah Oaur. 
 Tragical story. In a country where ignorance and poverty prevale it is lefs won- 
 derful that a tragical affair mould happen, fimilar to that at Tring, 
 near our polifhed capital. About three years ago lived in this neigh- 
 borhood, a woman of more than common ftrength of underftanding : 
 fhe was often confulted on the ordinary occurrences of life, and 
 obtained a fort of refpect which excited the envy of another female 
 in the fame diftrict. The laft gave out that her neighbor was 
 a witch ; that fhe herfelf had a good Genius, and could coun- 
 teract the evils dreaded from the other : at length fhe fo worked 
 on the weak minds of the fimple vulgar, that they determined 
 on deftroying her rival, and effected their purpofe by inftigating 
 a parcel of children to ftrangle her. The murder was inquired 
 into, but the inciters had fo artfully concealed themfelves, that 
 
 they
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 they efcaped their reward, and no punifhment was inflicted, 
 except what was fuited to the tender years of the deluded 
 children. 
 
 Ajjynt parifh contains between three and four thoufand fouls ; and 
 fends out five hundred head of cattle annually ; and about two or 
 three lafts of falmon are taken every year in the water of Innard^ on 
 the coaft. 
 
 I faw here a male and female red-throated diver ; which con- 
 vinces me of my miftake in fuppofing another to have been of this 
 fpecies *. 
 
 It was our defign, on leaving the fhip, to have penetrated by j ULY 2 8. 
 
 land, as far as the extremity of the ifland -, but we were informed 
 that the way was impaffable for horfes, and that even an hio-h- 
 Iand foot-mefienger mull avoid part of the hills by croffino- an 
 arm of the fea. Return the fame road through a variety of bog 
 and hazardous rock, that nothing but our ihoelefs little fleeds 
 could have carried us over. At length we arrive fafely on board 
 the fhip, 
 
 A wond'rous token 
 Of heaven's kind care, with necks unbroken. 
 
 Found in our harbour fome buffes, juft anchored, in expedta- jjerr 
 tion of finding the fnoals of herrings ufually here at this feafon; 
 but at prefent were difappointed : a few were taken, fufficient to 
 convince us of their fuperiority in goodnefs over thofe of the South : 
 they were not larger, but as they had not wafted themfelves by 
 
 * Br. ZoqL II. 415. 
 
 being 
 
 3^7
 
 THE FISHERY. 
 
 Dutch. 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 beino- in roc, their backs and the part next to the tail were 
 double the thicknefs of the others, and the meat rich beyond 
 expreflion. 
 stiquity or ]y[ r , Anderfon* gives to the Scotch a knowlege of great antiquity 
 in the herring fifhery: he fays that the Netherlander s reforted to 
 thefe coafts as early as A. D. 836, to purchafe faked fifli of the 
 natives ; but impofing on the ftrangers, they learned the art, and 
 took up tlic trade, in after-times of fuch immenfe emolument to the 
 Dutch. 
 Gains of the Sir Walter Raleigh's obfervations on that head, extracted from the 
 
 fame author, are extremly worthy the attention of the curious, and 
 excite reflections on the vaft ftrength refulting from the wifdom of 
 well-applied induftry. 
 
 In 1603, remarks that great man, the Dutch fold to different 
 nations, as many herrings as amounted to 1,759,000/. jlerling. 
 
 In the year 161 5, they at once fent out 2000 buffes, and employed 
 in them 37000 fifhermen. 
 
 In the year 161 8, they fent out 3000 Ihips, with 50,000 men, to 
 take the herrings, and 9000 more fhips to tranfport and fell the 
 fifli, which by fea and land employed 150,000 men, befides thofe firfr 
 mentioned. All this wealth was gotten on our coafts j while our 
 attention was taken up in a diftant whale fifhery. 
 
 The Scottijh monarchs for a long time feemed to direct all 
 their attention to the prefervation of the falmon fifhery ; probably 
 becaufe their fubjects were fuch novices in fea affairs. At length 
 James III. endeavoured to ftimulate his great men to thefe 
 
 * Did. Commerce, I. 41. 
 
 patriotic
 
 H E B R I D E Sr 
 
 patriotic undertakings ; for by an act of Ills third parlement, 
 he compelled " certain lords fpiritual and temporal, and bur- 
 " rows, to make mips bufhes and boats with nets and other 
 *' pertinents for riming. That the fame fhould be made in each 
 " burgh ; in number according to the fubftance of each burgh 
 " and the leaft of them to be of twenty tunn : and that all idle 
 " men be compelled by the fherifFs in the country to go on 
 " board the fame." 
 
 But his fucceflbrs, by a very falfe policy, rendered this wife 
 inftitution of little effect ; for they in a manner prevented their 
 fubjects from becoming a maritime people, by directing that no 
 white filh mould be fent out of the realm, but that ftrangers may 
 come and buy them * ; that freeports be firft ferved ; the cargoes 
 fold to the freemen, who are to come and tranfport the fame f. 
 The Dutch at this very time having an open trade. 
 
 It is well known that there have been many attempts made to Bounty. 
 
 fecure this treafure to ourfelves, but without fuccefs : in the late 
 reign a very ftrong effort was made, and bounties allowed for the 
 encouragement of Briti/h adventurers: the firft was of thirty mil- 
 lings per tun to every bufs of feventy tuns and upwards. This 
 bounty was afterwards raifed to fifty millings per tun, to be paid to 
 fuch adventurers who were entitled to it by claiming it at the places 
 of rendezvous. The buffes are from twenty to ninety tuns burden, Bussis. 
 
 but the beft fize is eighty. A veffel of eighty tuns ought to take 
 ten lafts, or a hundred and twenty barrels of herrings, to clear 
 expences, the price of the filh to be admitted to be a guinea a 
 
 * Jams V. Par km, VII. f James IV. & James VI. 
 
 B b b barrel : 
 
 3%
 
 370 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 barrel : a fhip of this fize ought to have eighteen men and three 
 boats : one of twenty tuns mould have fix men ; and every five 
 tuns above, require an additional hand. 
 Nets. To every tun are two hundred and eighty yards of nets ; fo a 
 
 vefTcl of eighty tuns carries twenty thoufand fquare yards : each 
 net is twelve yards long, and ten deep ; and every boat takes out 
 from twenty to thirty nets, and puts them together fo as to form a 
 long train : they are funk at each end of the train by a ftone, which 
 weighs it down to the full extent : the top is fupported by buoys, 
 made of fheeps-fkin, with a hollow flick at the mouth, fattened 
 tight ; though this the fkin is blown, up, and then ftopt with a peg, 
 to prevent the efcape of the air. Sometimes thefe buoys are placed 
 at the top of the nets j at other times the nets are fufFered to fink 
 deeper, by the lengthening the cords fattened to them, every cord 
 being for that purpofe ten or twelve fathoms long. But the belt 
 fifheries are generally in more fhallow water. 
 
 The nets are made at Greenock^ in Knapdale t Bute and Arran -, but 
 the beft are procured from Ireland; and, I think, from fome part of 
 Caernari'onjlrire. 
 Fishing. The fifhing is always performed in the night, unlefs by accident. 
 
 The buffes remain at anchor, and fend out their boats a little before 
 fun-fet, which continue out, in Winter and Summer, till day-light ; 
 often taking up and emptying their nets, which they do ten or twelve 
 times in a night in cafe of good fuccefs. During Winter it is a moft 
 dangerous and fatiguing employ, by reafon of the greatnefs and fre- 
 quency of the gales in thefe leas, and in fuch gales are the moft fuc- 
 cefsful captures •, but by the providence of heaven, the fifhers are 
 feldom loft; and, what is wonderful } few are vifited with illnefs. 
 
 They
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 They go out well prepared, with a warm great coat, boots and fkin 
 aprons, and a good provifion of beef and fpirits. The fame good 
 fortune attends the buffes, who in the tempeftuous feafon, and in 
 the darkeft nights, are continually ihifting in thefe narrow feas from 
 harbour to harbour. 
 
 Sometimes eighty barrels of herrings are taken in a night by the 
 boats of a fingle veffel. It once happened in Lcch-Slappan, in Skie 9 
 that a bufs of eighty tuns might have taken two hundred barrels in 
 one night, v/ith ten thoufand fquare yards of net j but the matter was 
 obliged to defift, for want of a fufficient number of hands to pre- 
 ferve the capture. 
 
 The herrings are preferred by faking, after the entrails are taken Curing. 
 
 out ; an operation performed by the country people, who o-et three- 
 half-pence per barrel for their trouble j and fometimes, even in the 
 Winter, can gain fifteen-pence a day. This employs both women 
 and children, but the faking is only entrufted to the crew of the 
 buffes. The fifh are laid on their backs' in the barrels, and layers 
 of fait between them. The entrails are not loft, for they are boiled 
 into an oil : eight thoufand fifh will yield ten gallons, valued at one 
 milling the gallon. 
 
 A veffel of eighty tuns takes out a hundred and forty-four barrels 
 of fait : a drawback of two millings and eight-pence is allowed for 
 each barrel ufed for the foreign or Irijh exportation of the fifh ; but 
 there is a duty of one milling per barrel for the home confumption, 
 and the fame for thofe fent to Ireland. 
 
 The barrels are made of oak ftaves chiefly from Virginia ; the 
 hoops from feveral parts of our own ifland, and are made either 
 
 B b b 2 of 
 
 37*
 
 372 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 of oak, birch, hazel, or willow : the laft from Holland, liable to a 
 
 duty. 
 Barrels. The barrels coft about three (hillings each, they hold from five 
 
 to eight hundred fifh, according to the fize of the fifh, are made to 
 contain thirty-two gallons. The barrels are infpe&ed by proper 
 officers : a cooper examines if they are ftatuteable and good •, if 
 faulty, he deftroys them, and obliges the maker to ftand to the 
 
 lofs. 
 
 The herrings in general are exported to the Weft Indies, to feed 
 the negroes, or to Ireland, for the Irijh.zxc not allowed to fifh in thefe 
 feas. By having a drawback of five-pence a barrel, and by re- 
 packing the fifh in new barrels of twenty-eight gallons, they are 
 enabled to export them to our colonies at a cheaper rate than the 
 
 Scots can do. 
 
 The trade declines apace •, the bounty, which was well paid at 
 firft, kept up the fpirit of the fifhery •, but for the laft fix years the 
 detention of the arrears has been very injurious to feveral adventu- 
 rers, who have fold out at thirty per cent, lofs, befides that of their 
 
 intereft. 
 Migrations. The migration of the herrings has been very fully- treated of in the . 
 
 3d volume of the Britijh Zoology : it is fuperfluous to load this work 
 with a repetition •, I fhall therefore only mention the obfervations • 
 that occur to me in this voyage, as pertinent to the prefent place. 
 
 Loch-Broom has been celebrated for three or four centuries as. 
 the refort of herrings. They generally appear here in July : thofe 
 that turn into this bay are part of the brigade that detaches itfelf 
 from the Weftern column of that great army that annually deferts ; 
 
 the.
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 the vaft depths of the arSfic circle, and come, heaven-directed, 
 to the feats of population, offered as a cheap food to millions, 
 whom wafteful luxury or iron-hearted avarice hath deprived, by 
 enhancing the price, of the wonted fupports of the poor. 
 
 The migration of thefe fiih from their Northern retreat is regai- 
 lar : their vifits to the Weftern ides and coafts, certain : but their 
 attachment to one particular loch, extremely precarious. All have 
 their turns •, that which fwarmed with fiih one year, is totally de- 
 ferted the following ; yet the next loch to it be crowded with the 
 fhoals. Thefe changes of place give often full employ to the 
 buffes, who are continually fhifting their harbour in queft of news 
 refpecting thefe important wanderers. 
 
 They commonly appear here in July •, the latter end of Auguft 
 they go into deep water, and continue there for fome time, without 
 any apparent caufe : in November they return to the fhallows, 
 when a new fifhery commences, which continues till January \ at- 
 that time the herrings become full of roe, and are ufelefs as arti- 
 cles of commerce. Some doubt whether thefe herrings that 
 appear in November are not part of a new migration ; for they 
 are as fat, and make the fame appearance, as thofe that compofed 
 the firft. 
 
 The figns of the arrival of the herrings are flocks of <mlls, who 
 catch up the fifli while they (kirn on the furface ; and of gannets, 
 who plunge and bring them up from confiderable depths. Both 
 thefe birds are clofely attended to by the filhers. 
 
 Cod-fi(h, haddocks, and dog-fifh, follow the herrings in vaft 
 multitudes-, thefe voracious iifh keep on the outfides of- die co- 
 lumns, and may be a concurrent reafon of driving the fhoals into - 
 
 bays- 
 
 371
 
 374 
 
 Enemies. 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 bays and creeks. In fummer they come into the bays generally 
 with the warmed weather, and with eafy gales. During Winter 
 the hard gales from N. Weft are fuppofed to aiTift in forcing them 
 into fheker. Eaft winds are very unfavorable to the fifhery. 
 
 In a fine day, when the fifh appear near the furface, they exhi- 
 bit an amazing brilliancy of colors ; all the various corufcations 
 that dart from the diamond, fapphire and emerald, enrich their 
 trad : but during night, if they break, i. e. play on the furface, 
 the fea appears on fire, luminous as the brighteft phofphorus. 
 
 During a gale, that part of the ocean which is occupied by the 
 great fhoals, appear as if covered with the oil that is emitted 
 from them. 
 
 They feem to be greatly affected by lightening : during that 
 phenomenon they fink towards the bottom, and move regularly 
 in parallel fhoals one above the other. 
 
 The enemies that affail thefe fifh in the Winter feafon are va- 
 ried, not diminifhed : of the birds, the gannets difappear ; the 
 gulls ftill continue their perfecutions -, whales, pollacks * and 
 porpefles are added to their number of foes : thefe follow ,in 
 droves -, the whales deliberately, opening their vaft mouths, tak- 
 ing them by hundreds. Thefe monfters keep on the outfide, for 
 the body of the phalanx of herrings is fo thick as to be impenetra- 
 ble by thefe unwieldy animals. 
 
 The herring-fifhers never obferve the remains of any kind of 
 food in the ftomachs of that fifh, as long as they are in good con- 
 
 * A fmall whale, vvhofe fpecies I cannot determine* 
 
 dition ;
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 clidon : as foon as they become foul or poor, they will greedily 
 rife to the fly, and be taken like the whiting-pollack. 
 
 They do nor depofit their fpawn in fand, or mud, or weeds, 
 like other fifh, but leave it in the water, fufpended in a gelatinous 
 matter, of fuch a gravity as prevents it from floating to the fur- 
 face, or finking to the bottom. The fifhermen difcover this by 
 finding the flimy matter adhering to the hay ropes fometimes in 
 ufe to hold the ftone that finks the nets, the middle part being 
 (limed over, the top and bottom clear. 
 
 Before I leave this bay it muft be obferved, that there are here as . 
 in mod of the lochs, a few, a very few of the natives who pof- 
 fefs a boat and nets ; and fifh in order to fell the capture frefh to 
 the buries : the utmoft thefe poor people can attain to are the boat 
 and nets ; they are too indigent to become mailers of barrels, or 
 of fait, to the great lofs of the public as well as theirfelves. 
 Were magazines of fait eftablifhed in thefe diftant parts ; was en- 
 couragement given to thefe diftant Britons, fo that they might be 
 enabled, by degrees to furnifli themfelves with the requifites for 
 fifhing, they would foon form themfelves into feamen, by the 
 courfe of life they muft apply themfelves to •, the buiTes would be 
 certain of finding a ready market of fifh, ready cured; the na- 
 tives taught induftry, which would be quickened by the profits 
 made by the commodity, which they might afford cheaper, as 
 taken at their very doors, without the wear and tear of diftant 
 voyages, as in the prefent cafe. Half of the hands employed 
 now in fifhing and curing generally come out as raw feamen as 
 the inhabitants of thefe parts : they do not return with much 
 greater experience in the working of a fhip, being employed en- 
 tirely 
 
 .1/2
 
 37<5 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 tircly in the boats, or in faking of the herrings, and feem on 
 board as aukward as marines in companion of able feamen. A 
 bounty on thefe home captures would ftimulate the people to in- 
 duftry i would drive from their minds the thoughts of migra- 
 tions •, and would never leffen the number of feamen, as it would 
 be an incitement for more adventurers to fit out veflels, becaufe 
 they would have a double chance of freight, from their own cap- 
 tures, and from thofe of the refidents, who might form a flock 
 from fhoals of fifh, which often efcape while the former are wind- 
 bound, or wandering from loch to loch. 
 
 Tulv 2g. Weigh anchor, and fail with a favorable breeze towards the 
 
 mouth of the bay, with a defign of returning South ; but to- 
 wards evening the wind changes, cold weather and hard adverfe 
 gales fuceeed, which oblige us to tack and anchor in the mouth 
 L eLock- °f Little Loch-Broom^ an arm of the fea, about feven miles long, 
 
 Broom. and not half .a mile broad, bounded by high mountains, covered 
 
 in many parts with 'birch woods. The hill Talloch-EJfie may vie 
 with the higheft I have feen. 
 
 For two hours amufe ourfelves with taking with hand-lines 
 abundance of cod, fome dog-fifh, and a curious ray. 
 
 The night was moll tempeftuous : our fituation was difagreea- 
 ble, as Mr. Thompfon thought our veffel would drive, and that he 
 fhould be obliged to cut his cables, and put to fea-, which, un- 
 der the circumftances of a black night, a furious ftorm, and 
 rocky narrows, did not contribute to the repofe of frefh-water 
 feamen. 
 
 July 3«. The wind grows moderate : in weighing anchor difcover on the 
 
 .cable feveral vey uncommon Afieria. No fooner was our anchor 
 
 on
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 on board, but a furious fquall arifes, and blows in blafts like a Squalls. 
 hurricane, driving us before it at a vaft rate, till we arrived with- 
 in a mile of the bottom of the loch. Drop anchor, but without 
 effect ; are obliged to veigh again, while the furious gale engages 
 an attention to the fails, and flings us into a double perplexity in 
 this narrow ftrait, where for an hour our tacks were almoft perpe- 
 tual, and the vefiel frequently in no fmall danger. The blafts 
 from the mountains were tremendous, not only raifing a vaft fea, 
 but catching up the waves in eddies, and raifing them up in the 
 air to a furprizing height. At length we were relieved from our 
 diftrels by a fuccefsful anchorage, under a high and finely wooded 
 hill, in eight fathom water, but within a fmall diftance, of 
 eighty. 
 
 Procure horfes, by favor of Kenneth Mac-kenzie, Efq; of Dun- 
 donnel. Ride about a mile on the fide of the hill, above the loch j 
 arrive in a fmall but fertile plain, winding among the vaft moun- 
 tains, and adorned with a pretty river and woods of alder. Here 
 we were rejoiced with the fight of enclofures long ftrangers to us : 
 the hay was good, the bear and oats excellent ; but the manner of 
 manuring, called in thefe parts tathing, was very fingular : many 
 of the fields were covered with the boughs of alders, lately cut : 
 thefe are left during the whole Winter to rot ; in March the ground 
 is cleared of the undecayed parts, and then ploughed. Fern is 
 alfo ufed for the fame end. Reach 
 
 Dundonnel. Determined to go by land to vifit Loch-maree, a 
 great lake to the South: and direct Mr. Thompfon to fail, and 
 wait for us at Gair-loch. 
 
 Ccc We 
 
 377
 
 DON EL. 
 
 37 8 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 Fine scbnbrv V> r e found ourfelves feated in a fpot equalized by few in pi&u- 
 
 about Dun- refque and magnificent fcenery. The banks of the river that 
 rufhes by the houfe is fringed with trees •, and the courfe often 
 interrupted by caicades. At a Cmall diftance the ground begins to 
 rife : as we mount, the eye is entertained with new objects ; 
 the river rolling beneath the dark made of alders, an extent of 
 plain compofed of fields bounded by groves j and as the walk 
 advances, appears a deep and tremendous hollow, magged with 
 trees > and winding far amidft the hills. We are alarmed with the 
 roar of invifiole cataracts, long before their place is difcovered •, 
 and find them precipitating themfelves down narrow chafms of 
 ftupendous depths, fo narrow at top, that Highlanders in the 
 eagernefs of the chace will fearlefsly fpring over thefe Bara* 
 thra. They meander for miles amidft the mountains, and are 
 the ao-e-worn work of water, branch off into every glen, hid 
 with trees of various fpecies. Torrents roll over their bottoms 
 often dartino- down precipices of a thoufand forms, lofing them- 
 felves beneath the undermined rocks, and appearing again white 
 with the violence of the fall. By laying afide the boughs, and 
 creepino- to the verge, got fight of thefe otherwife latent cataracts ; 
 but the profpeft fuffkiently tired my head. Befides thefe dark^ 
 fome waters, multitudes of others precipitate themfelves in full 
 view down the deep fides of the adjacent hills ; and create for 
 feveral hundreds of feet a feries of moll magnificent falls. 
 
 Above rifes a magnificent hill, which as far as the fight can 
 reach is cloathed with birch and pines, the flaelter of flags, roes 
 and black game. 
 
 To
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 To the Weft is a view where the aweful, or rather the horrible 
 predominates. A chain of rocky mountains, fome conoid, but 
 united by links of a height equal to moft in North Britain, with 
 fides dark, deep, and precipitous, with fummits broken, fharp, 
 ferrated, and fpiring into all terrific forms ; with fnowy glacieres 
 lodged in the deep fhaded apertures. Thefe crags are called 
 Squr-fein, or hills of wine : they rather merit the title of Squr- 
 Jhain, or rocks of wind j for here Mollis may be faid to make his 
 refidence, and be ever employed in fabricating blafts, fqualls and 
 hurricanes, which he fcatters with no fparing hand over the fub- 
 jacent vales and lochs. 
 
 Moft agreeably detained with the good family of Dundonnel by July 31, 
 
 a violent fall of rain, which rendered the waters impaflable. Obferve 
 after dinner that Cloud-berries*, that grow on the adjacent moun- 
 tains, were ferved as a defert. 
 
 After taking a Deoch-an-doruis, or a door-cup, proceed fouth August i. 
 
 afcend a fteep hill far above a bank wooded with various trees, 
 among others the wych-elm grew native. To the Weft 'were the 
 vaft mountains, naked, rugged and dreary, their bafes flopino-, 
 furrowed with long clefts, emptying their precipitated waters into 
 the river beneath. Defcend into a vale with birch trees thinly 
 fcattered over it : and the extremity c rolled by a high rock wood- 
 ed and divided in the middle by a vaft and foaming cataradt, 
 the waters of Loch-nan-niun, or the lake of birds. On the weft 
 fide is an amazing mountain fteeply Hoping, compofed of a 
 whitifh marble, fo extenfive, fmooth, glofly and even, as to appear 
 
 * Rubus Chemamorus, 
 
 C c c 2 like 
 
 379
 
 380 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 like an enormous fheet of ice ; and is, I doubt not, as flippery. 
 Our guide called the hill, Lecacb. The oppofite fide of the 
 vale was precipitous ; varied with trees and cafcades, that fell 
 among the branches. The whole of this fcene was truly alpine. 
 
 Afcend again. Arrive amidft flrata of red and white marble, 
 the way horrible, broken, fleep and flippery -, but our cautious fteeds 
 tried every itep before they would venture to proceed. Black 
 morafly heaths fucceed, named Gliann-dochartai. Dine on the 
 fide of a rill at the bottom, on plentiful fare provided by our 
 kind holt, whofe fon, Mr. Mackenzie, and another gentleman of 
 the name, kindly undertook the charge of us to the next ftage. 
 Ride through a narrow ftrath called Kin-loch-ewe, where we firft 
 faw the figns of houfes and a little cultivation fince morning. 
 This terminates in a meadowy plain, clofed at the end with Loch- 
 maree : the night proved wet, and tempeftuous : we therefore de- 
 termined to defer the voyage till next day - t and to take fhelter 
 in a whifky houfe the inn of the place. Mr. Mackenzie compli- 
 mented Mr. Lightfoot and me with the bedltead, well covered 
 with a warm litter of heath : we lay in our cloaths, wrapped 
 ourfelves in plaids \ and enjoyed a good repofe. Our friends did 
 not lofe their fleep ; but great was our furprize to fee them form 
 their bed of wet hay, or rather grafs collected from the fields ; 
 they flung a plaid over it, undrefied, and lay mod comfortably, 
 without injury, in what, in a little time, mull have become an 
 errant hot-bed : fo bleft with hardy conftitutions are even the 
 gentlemen of this country ! 
 Ave. 2. At feven in the morning, take a fix-oared boat, at the eaft 
 
 end of Loch-maree ; keep on the north fhore beneath fteep rocks, 
 
 moflly
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 3S1 
 
 moftly filled with pines waving over our heads. Obferve on the Loch-maree. 
 iliore a young man of good appearance, hailing the boat in the 
 Erfe language. I demanded what he wanted : was informed, a 
 place in the boat. As it was entirely filled, I was obliged to re- 
 fufe his requeft. He follows us for two miles through every dif- 
 ficulty, and by his voice and geftures threatened revenge. At 
 length a rower thought fit to acquaint us, that he was owner of 
 the boat, and only wanted admiffion in lieu of one of them. 
 The boat was ordered to more, and the matter taken in with 
 proper apologies and attempts to footh him for his hard treat- 
 ment. Inftead of infulting us with abufe, as a Charon of South 
 Britain would have done, he inftantly compoied himfelf, and told 
 us through an interpreter, that he felt great pride in finding that 
 his conduct gained any degree of approbation. 
 
 Continue our courfe. The lake, which at the beginning was 
 only half a mile broad, now, nearly half its length, widens into 
 a great bay, bending towards the South, about four miles in 
 breadth, filled with little iiles, too much cluftered and indiftinct. 
 
 Land on that called Inch-maree, the favored ifle of the faint, Inch-maree. 
 the patron of all the coait from Appkcrofs to Loch-broom. The 
 "lores are neat and gravelly ; the whole furface covered thickly 
 with a beautiful grove of oak, afh, willow, wicken, birch, fir, 
 hazel, and enormous hollies. In the midft is a circular dike of 
 Hones, with a regular narrow entrance : the inner part has been, 
 ufed for ages as a burial place, and is ftill in ufe. I fufpect the 
 dike to have been originally Bruidical, and that the antient fuper- 
 ftition of Paganifm had been taken up by the faint, as the readied 
 method of making a conqueft over the minds of the innabitants. 
 
 A flump
 
 382 A VOYAGE to the" 
 
 A ftump of a tree is fhewn as an altar, probably the memorial of 
 one of Hone •, but the curiofity of the place is the well of the faint -, 
 of power unfpeakable in cafes of lunacy. The patient is brought 
 into the facred ifland, is made to kneel before the altar, where his 
 attendants leave an offering in money : he is then brought to the 
 well, and fips fome of the holy water : a fecond offering is made ; 
 that done, he is thrice dipped in the lake j and the fame operation 
 is repeated every day for fome weeks : and it often happens, by 
 natural caufes, the patient receives relief, of which the faint re- 
 ceives the credit. I muft add, that the vifitants draw from the 
 ftate of the well an omen of the difpofition of St. Maree : if his 
 well is full, they fuppofe he will be propitious ; if not, they- pro- 
 ceed in their operations with fears and doubts : but let the event 
 be what it will, he is held in high efteem : the common oath of 
 the country is, by his name : if a traveller paffes by any of his 
 refting-places, they never neglect to leave an offering ; but the 
 faint is lb moderate as not to put him to any expence : a ftone, a 
 jftick, a bit of rag contents him. 
 
 This is the moil beautiful of the ifles ; the others have only a 
 few trees fprinkled over their furface. 
 
 About a mile farther the lake again contracts. Pafs beneath a 
 high rock, formed offhort precipicies, with fhelves between, filled 
 with multitudes of felf-fown pines, making a molt beautiful ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 The South fide of the water is bounded with mountains adorned 
 with birch woods, mixed with a few pines : a military road runs 
 along its length. The mountains are not very high, but open in 
 many parts to give a view of others, whofe naked and broken 
 
 tops
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 tops mooting into {harp crags, ftrangely diverfify the fcene, and 
 form a noble termination. 
 
 Towards the bottom of the lake is a headland, finely wooded 
 to the very fummit. Here the water fuddenly narrows to the 
 breadth of a hundred yards, and continues fo for near a mile, the 
 banks cloathed with trees, and often bending into little femilunar 
 bays to the very extremity; from whence its waters, after the courfe 
 of a mile, a continual Rapide, difcharge into a deep and darkfome 
 hole, called Pool- Ewe, which opens into the large bay of Loch- 
 Ewe. 
 
 The lake we had left is eighteen miles long : the waters are 
 faid to be fpecifically lighter than mod others, and very rarely 
 frozen : the depth is various, in fome places fixty fathoms ; but 
 the bottom is very uneven : if ten feet of water were drained away, 
 the whole would appear a chain of little lakes. 
 
 : The fifti are falmon, char and trout; of the lafl is a fpecies Fish. 
 
 weighing thirty pounds. 
 
 Land ; are received by the Rev. Mr. Bounie, minifter of Gair- 
 loch, whom we attend to church, and hear a very edifying plain 
 comment on a portion of fcripture. He takes us home with him, 
 and by his hofpitality makes us experience the difference between 
 the lodgings of the two nights. 
 
 Take a view of the environs ; vifit the mouth of the river, Aug. 3^ 
 
 where the falmon fiihery fupplies the tenant with three or four 
 lafts of fifh annually. On the bank are the remains of a very 
 antient iron furnace. Mr. Dounie has feen the back of a orate, 
 marked S. G. Hay, or Sir George Hay, who was head of a com- 
 pany here in the time of the Queen Regent ; and is fuppofed to 
 
 have 
 
 3*3
 
 3 8 4 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 have chofen this remote place for the fake of quiet in thofe turbu- 
 lent times. 
 
 Potatoes are raifed here on the very peat-moors, without any 
 other drains than the trenches between the beds. The potatoes 
 are kiln-dried for prefervation. 
 
 It is to be hoped that a town will form itfelf here, as it is the 
 ftation of a government-packet, that fails regularly from hence 
 to Stornaway, in Lewis, a place now growing confiderable, by the 
 encouragement of Lord Seafortb, the proprietor. This is a fpot 
 of much concourie : for here terminates the military road, which 
 crofles from the Eaft to the Well fea, commencing at Invernefs, 
 and palTing by Fair-burn and Strath-braan to this place. Yet I be- 
 lieve the beft inn on the lafl thirty miles is that of Mr. Roderick 
 Mac-donald, our landlord the laft night but one. 
 Gair-lock. Ride above fix miles South, and reach Gair-loch; confirming of 
 
 a few fcatttered houfes, on a fine bay of the fame name. Break - 
 faft at Flowerdale •, a good houfe, beautifully feated beneath hills 
 finely wooded. This is the feat of Sir Heclor Mackenzie, whofe 
 anceftor received a writ of fire and fword againft the antient rebel- 
 lious owners : he fucceeded in this commifTion, and received their 
 lands for his pains. 
 
 The parifh of Gair-loch is very extenfive, and the number of 
 inhabitants evidently encreafe, owing to the fimple method of 
 life, and the conveniency they have of drawing a fupport from 
 the fiihery. If a young man is pofTefTed of a herring-net, a hand- 
 line, and three or four cows, he immediately thinks himfelf able 
 to fupport a family, and marries. The prefent number of fouls 
 are about two thoufand eight hundred. 
 
 Herrings
 
 Fishers, 
 
 HEBRIDES. 3% 
 
 Herrings offer themlelves in fhoals from June to January : cod- 
 fifh abound on the great fand-bank, one corner of which reaches to Sand-banks for 
 this bay, and is fuppofed to extend as far as Cafe-Wrath ; and 
 South, as low as Rona, off Ski e -, with various branches, all fwarm- 
 ing with cod and ling. The fifhery is carried on with long-lines, 
 begins in February ', and ends in April. The annual capture is un- 
 certain, from five to twenty-feven thoufand. The natives labor 
 under fome opprefTions, which might be eafily removed to the 
 great advancement of this commerce. At prefent the fifh are fold 
 to fome merchants from Campbeltown, who contract for them with 
 the laird, at two-pence half-penny a-piece, after being cured and 
 dried in the fun. The merchants take only thofe that meafure 
 eighteen inches from the gills to the fetting on of the tail ; and ob- 
 lige the people to let them have two for one of all that are beneath 
 that length. The fifh. are fent to Bilboa: ling has alfo been carried 
 there, but was rejected by the Spaniards. This trade is far from 
 being pufhed to its full extent j is monopolized, and the poor fifhers 
 cruelly forced to fell their fifh for three-half-pence a piece to thofe 
 who fell it to the merchants. 
 
 The want of a town is very fenfibly felt in all thofe parts : there 
 is no one commodity, no one article of life, or implement of 
 fifhery but what is gotten with difficulty, and at a great price, 
 brought from a diftance by thofe who are to make advantage of 
 the necefiities of the people. It is much to be lamented that 
 after the example of the earl of Seafortb, they do not collect a 
 number of inhabitants by feuing their lands, or granting leafes 
 for a length of years for building : but ft ill fo much of the fpirit 
 of the chieftain remains, that they dread giving an independency 
 
 D d d to
 
 3 86 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 to their people ; a falfe policy ! as it would enrich both parties j 
 and make the landlord more refpeclabie, as mailer of a fet of 
 decent tenants, than of thouiands of bare-footed half-ftarved 
 vafifals. At prefent adventurers from diftant parts take the em- 
 ploy from the natives : a town would create a market -, a market 
 would foon occafion a concourfe of fhipping^ who would thea 
 arrive with a certainty of a cargo ready taken for them j and the 
 mutual wants of ftranger and native would be fupplied at an eafy 
 rate. 
 
 By example of a gentleman or two, fome few improvements in 
 farming appear. Lime is burnt : fea-tang ufed as manure : and 
 fhell fand imported by fuch who can afford the freight. But the 
 bed trade at prefent is cattle : about five hundred are annually fold 
 out of this parifh, from the price of one pound feven to two pounds 
 five a-piece. About eighty horfes, at three pounds each, and a 
 hundred and fifty fheep at three pounds per fcore. The cattle are 
 blooded at fpring and fall : the blood is preferved to be eaten 
 cold. 
 
 We found our veiTel fafely arrived at anchor with many others, 
 under the fhelter of a little ifle, on the fouth fide of the bay. 
 "Weigh, and get under fail with a good breeze. Pafs by the mouth 
 Ap*le-cross. °f Loch Torridon : a few leagues farther by Apple-crofs bay, fmall, 
 with populous and well cultivated fhores. The back ground molt 
 uncommonly mountainous. 
 
 Apple-crofs houfe is inhabited by a molt hofpitable gentleman 
 as fame reports : we lamented therefore our inability to pay our 
 refpects. 
 
 On the right leave the ifles of Rona and Rafa and Scalpay : before 
 
 us
 
 HEBRIDES. 33 7 
 
 us is Croulitt, and beyond foar the vaft hills of Skie. Sail clofe 
 under Croulin inhabited by two families : producing a little corn 
 and a few cattle. Almoft oppofite to its fouthern end is the common 
 entrance into the two great lochs, Kijferne and Carron. 
 
 Pafs the found between Skie and Kintail -, anchor about nine 
 o'clock, and once more deep beneath Mac-kinnotfs caftle. 
 
 In failing down the bay, had to the north eaft a full view of Aug. 4. 
 Kintail in 
 
 R©SS-SHIRE, 
 
 the original feat of the Mac-Kenzies, or rather Mac-Kenneths *, a 
 patronymic from their great anceflor Kenneth, fon of Colin Fitzgerald* 
 of the houfe of Defmond in Ireland. To him Alexander III. made 
 a grant of thefe lands for his good fervices at the battle of Largs. 
 His pofterity, a warlike race, rilled all the lands j for the heroes of 
 
 * Thefe were the chief gentlemen, in 1603, in the fheriffdom of Inverne/f^ 
 which at that time included the mire of that name, Ro/s, Stratbnavern, Catbne/st 
 Sutherland, and the Northern Hebrides : 
 
 Macloyd, of Lewis, L. of Fowles, 
 
 Macloyd, of Harries, Sherrife of Crotnartie t 
 
 Donald Gormefoun, Dumbeitb t 
 
 Macneil, of Barray, For/e, 
 
 Mulcalloun, of Rofay, Otanfceale, 
 
 John Mudzart, captain of Mackye, 
 
 the Clanrannalts, Neil Hutcbe/oun, in Ajfent, 
 
 The Laird of Glengarry ; Mackenio/che, captain of the 
 
 The L. of Kneydart, Clancbaniroun, 
 
 Mac-kenzie, L. ofGlenewes, 
 
 L. of Garloche, Raynold Mac-raynold, of 
 
 X». of Balnagcwtte, Keppacbt, 
 
 D d d 2 North-
 
 3 g$ A VOYAGE to the 
 
 North-Britain, like Polypes, multiply the more exceedingly by cuts 
 and wounds. 
 
 Leave to the Eaft the entrance into Loch-Lung and Lcch-Duach ; 
 two miles from the South fide of the laft are the dangerous parTes 
 Battle of f Qlen-Jheil and Strachell; where, on June the ioth, 17 19, a petty 
 rebellion, projected by Cardinal Alberoni, and to have been fup- 
 ported by the Spaniards, was fuppreffed. A temped difperfed the 
 hoftile fquadron, and only about three hundred forces arrivtd. 
 The highlanders made a poor (land at Strachell-, but were quickly 
 put to flight, when they had opportunity of deftroying the king's 
 forces by rolling down Hones from the heights. I muft not omit 
 that among the clans that appeared in arms, was a large body lent 
 by a neighboring chieftain, merely for the battle of that one day ; 
 and win or lofe was to return home that night. 
 
 Pafs through the Kil-ru, buffetted feverely on the way by violent 
 fqualls. Land on the eaft fide in the parifh of Glen-elg, in the 
 county of 
 
 Inverness. 
 
 The veffel anchors three miles diftant on the oppofite fide of the bay, 
 under Skie. 
 
 Walk up to the church ; and obferve near it a fingular tree, 
 whofe boughs had bent to the grounds, and taking root formed a 
 Bernera flrange arbour. Pafs by the barracks of Bermra, built in 1722,. 
 
 handfome and capacious, defigned to hold two hundred men : at 
 prefent occupied only by a corporal and fix foldiers. The country 
 lament this neglect. They are now quite feniible of the good 
 
 effe&s 
 
 BARRACKS.
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 effects of the military, by introducing peace and fecurity : they 
 fear leaft the evil days mould return, and the antient thefts be re- 
 newed, as foon as the Banditti find this protection of the people 
 removed. 
 
 Walk up the valley of Glen-EIg, or the vale of Deer: vifit Mr. 
 Macleod, the minifler, and receive all the welcome that the Res an- 
 gu/la Domus would permit. He fhewed us, at a fmall diftance from 
 his houfe, the remains of a mine of black lead, neglected on account 
 of the poverty of what the adventurers found near the furface ; but 
 it is highly probable, that at a proper depth it may be found to 
 equal that of Cumberland. A poor kind of bog iron ore is alf® 
 found here. 
 
 Above the manfe, on the top of a hill, is a Britijb fortrefs, diked 
 round with {tone, and in the middle is the veftige of a circular in- 
 clofure, perhaps of a building, the fhelter of the officers. Within 
 fighr is another of thefe retreats, which are called in the Erfe, Bii- 
 dhun, or, the place of refuge. 
 
 This valley is the property of Mr. Macleod, of Dunvegan, ac- 
 quired by a marriage of an anceftor with a daughter of Lord Bif- 
 fet The parifh is of vaft extent, and comprehends Knodiart and 
 North Morar. Glenelg has near feven hundred inhabitants, all 
 protectants •, the other two diftricts are almoft entirely of the 
 popifh perfuafion. The reader who has the curiofity to know the 
 number of Roman Catholics in thefe parts of North Britain, may 
 fatisfy his curiofity in the Appendix, from an abftract taken from 
 the Report made by the gentlemen appointed by the General 
 Assemrly, in 1 760, to vifit thefe remote highlands* and the Hebrides, 
 
 fox. 
 
 389
 
 372 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 for the purpofe of enquiring into the ftate of religion in thole 
 
 parts. 
 
 This part of Glen-Elg is divided into two vallies ; Glen-more* 
 where the barracks are, from which is a military road of fifty-one 
 miles extent, reaching to Fort-Augnjlus : the other is Glen-beg. The 
 parifh fends out a confiderable number of cattle : thefe vallies would 
 be fertile in corn, was it not for the plague of rain, which prevents 
 tillage to fuch a degree, that the poor inhabitants feel the fame dif- 
 trelTes as their neighbors. 
 Danish forts. Walk back by the barracks to Glen-beg, to vifit the celebrated 
 edifices attributed to the Danes : the firft is placed about two miles 
 from the mouth of the valley. The more entire fide appears of a 
 moft elegant taper form : the prefent height is thirty feet fix inches j 
 but in 1722, fome Goth purloined from the top, feven feet and a half, 
 under pretence of applying the materials to certain public buildings. 
 By the appearance of fome ruins that now lie at the bale, and which 
 have fallen off fince that time, I believe three feet more may 
 be added to the height, which will make the whole about forty- 
 one. 
 
 The whole is built with dry walls, but the courfes molt beauti- 
 fully difpofed. On one fide is a breach of at left one quarter of the 
 circumference. The diameter within is thirty-three feet and a half, 
 . taken at a diftance of ten feet from the bottom : the wall in that 
 part is feven feet four inches thick, but is formed thinner and 
 thinner till it reaches the top, whofe breadth I forgot to caufe 
 to be meafured. This infide wall is quite perpendicular, fo that 
 the inner diameter muft have been equal from top to bottom : 
 
 but
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 but the exterior wall Hopes, encreafing in thicknefs till it reaches the 
 ground. 
 
 In the thicknefs of the wall were two galleries ; one at the lower 
 part, about fix feet two inches high, and two feet five at the bottom, 
 narrowing to the top ; flagged, and alfo covered over with great fiat 
 ftones. This gallery ran quite round, and that horizontally, but 
 was divided into apartments : in one place with fix flags, placed 
 equidiftant from each other ; and were acceffible above by means of 
 a hole from another gallery : into the lower were two entrances 
 (before the ruin of the other fide there had been two others; above 
 each of thefe entrances were a row of holes, running up to the top, 
 divided by flags appearing like fhelves : near the top was a circle 
 of projecting ftones, which probably were intended to hold the beams 
 that formed the roof: above is another hole like the former. None 
 of thefe openings pafs through, for there is not the left appearance 
 of window nor opening on the outiide wall. All thefe holes are 
 fquare ; are too fmall to admit the human body, fo were probably 
 
 defigned to lodge arms, and different other matters, fecurefrom wet 
 
 or harm. 
 
 Over the firft gallery was another, divided from it only by flags.' 
 
 This alfo went round, but was free from any feparation : the height 
 
 was five feet fix -, only twenty inches wide at bottom. This was 
 
 alfo covered with flags at top. 
 
 At a diftance above, in the broken fides of. the wall, was another 
 
 hole; but it feemed too fmall for a gallery. The afcent was not 
 
 fafe, fo could not venture up. The height was taken by a little 
 
 boy, who fcrambled to the top. 
 
 The entrance was a fquare hole, on the Weft fide : before it were 
 
 V the 
 
 391
 
 39a A VOYAGE to the 
 
 the remains of fome building, with a narrow opening that led to the 
 doer. Almofl contiguous to this entrance or portico, was a fmall 
 circle formed of rude (tones, which was called the foundation of the 
 Druids houies. It probably was formed for fome religious purpofe. 
 I was told there were many others of this kind fcattered over the 
 valley. 
 
 At lefs than a quarter of a mile diftant from this (lands the fecond 
 tower, on a little flat on the fide of the hill. The form is fimilar, 
 but the number of galleries differs : here are three, the lowed goes 
 entirely round j but at the Eaft end is an aperture now of a fmall 
 depth, but once of furh extent, that the g$>%ts which flickered in it 
 were often loft : on that account the entrance was filled with (tones. 
 This is fix feet high, four feet two inches broad, and flagged above 
 and below. 
 
 A fecond gallery was of the fame height, but the breadth of the 
 floor only three feet five. 
 
 The third gallery was of fuch difficult accefs that I did not attempt 
 to get up : it was lb narrow and low, that it was with difficulty that 
 the child who climbed to it could creep through. 
 
 The prefent height of this tower is only 24 feet five inches •, the 
 diameter thirty •, the thicknefs of the lower part of the wall twelve 
 feet four. 
 
 I could not perceive any traces of the winding (lairs mentioned 
 by Mr. Gordon : but as thefe buildings have fuffered greatly fince 
 that gentleman faw them, I have no doubt of his accuracy. 
 
 Thefe were in all probability places of defence ; but it is diffi- 
 cult to fay any thing on the fubjecf. of their origin, or by what 
 nation they were erected. They are called here Caifteal Teilbah, 
 
 or,.
 
 XJ-I 
 
 <3-4P 
 
 __ y{ !/„:,//, rJ,
 
 -— - -«2§£ 
 
 PES
 
 HEBRIDES, 
 
 or the caftles of Teilfra, built by a mother for her four fons, 
 as tradition, delivered in this tranflation of four Erfe lines, 
 informs : 
 
 My four fons a fair clan, 
 I left in the ftrath of one glen : 
 My Ma/comb, my lovely Chonil, 
 My Tehe, my Troddan. 
 
 There had been two others, now totally demolifhed, and each 
 named after her children. Mr. Gordon mentions others of this kind; 
 one at Glen-dunin, two at Eqfter Fearn in Rofs-Jhire, and two or three 
 in Lord Reay's country •, one of which is called the Dune of Dorna- 
 dilla, from an imaginary prince, who reigned two hundred and fixty 
 years before the Cbriftian vera. This appears to be fo well defcribed 
 by an anonymous writer in the Edinburgh magazine, that it 
 will poffibly be acceptable to the reader to find it copied in the 
 
 39$ 
 
 note *. 
 
 The 
 
 • " In the moft Northern part of Scotland, called Lord Re ay's country, not far 
 from Tongue, and near the head of the river which runs into the North fea at Locb- 
 Eribol, is the remains of a ftone tower, which I apprehend to be a Druidic work, 
 and to be the greatefl piece of antiquity in this ifland. It is furprifing that it is 
 fo Uttle known even to the natives of that country : I don't remember to have ever 
 feen it mentioned in any book whatever, nor do I recoiled whether Mr. Pennant 
 has received any information concerning it. This tower is called by the neigh- 
 boring inhabitants, the Dune o/Dornadilla. It is of a circular form, and now 
 nearly refembling the fruftrum of a cone : whether, when perfett, it terminated in 
 a point, I cannot pretend to guefs ; but it feems to have been formerly hipher, by 
 the rubbifh which lies round it. It is built of ftone, without cement, and I take 
 it to be between 20 and 30 feet high ftill. The entrance is by a very low and 
 
 E e e narrow
 
 394 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 The rain, which poured in a deluge during the whole of this walk, 
 attended with a molt violent gale, prevented us from going aboard : 
 butwc found a mod comfortable lodging under the hofpitable roof 
 of the good minifter. 
 
 narrow door, to pafs thro' which one is obliged to (loop much ; but, perhaps, the 
 ground may have been raifeu fince the firft erection. 
 
 " Wiien one is got in, and placed in the centre, it is open over head. All 
 round the fides of the walls are ranged ftone fhelves, one above another, like the 
 fhelveb in a circular beaufait, reaching from near the bottom to the top. The 
 f.ones which compc te thefe {helves are fupported chiefly by the ftones which form 
 the walls, and which project all round juft in that place where the fhelves are, and 
 in no others : each of the fhelves is feparated into feveral divifions as in a book- 
 cafe. There is fome remains of an aukward flair-cafe. What ufe the fhelves 
 could be applied to I cannot conceive. It could not be of any military ufe from 
 its fuuation at the bottom of a floping hill, which wholly commands it. The moil 
 learned among the inhabitants, fuch as the gentry and clergy, who all fpeak the 
 Irijh language, could give 00 information or tradition concerning its ufe, or the 
 origin and meaning of its name. But fome years fince I happened, at an auction 
 of books in London, to look into a French book, containing Gaulijb antiquities, and 
 there I faw a print of the remains of a Druidic temple in France, which greatly re- 
 fembles the tower I am fpeaking of, having like fhelves in it. And, reading a 
 late pamphlet on the antiquity of the Irijh language, I think I can partly trace the 
 origin of the name Dornadilla. At page 24, the author fays, that Dorn means a 
 roundfone, fo that abdorn would mean the round ftone of the priefts ; na is of and 
 Di is God: at page 45, he fays, in the laft line, ulla means a place of devotion j 
 fo that Dcr-na-Di-ulla will fignify the round ftone place of the nx<orJhip of God', or 
 perhaps it might allude to fome round ftone preferved within as a facred emblem of 
 divinity. As I am not acquainted with the Iri/h language, if any of your corre- 
 spondents can give any better account, either of the nature of fuch Druidic tem- 
 ples, or of this name in particular, it will, perhaps, be acceptable toothers, a* 
 well as to your humble fervant."
 
 Hebrides: 
 
 39; 
 
 The whole morning continued wet and boiflerous. In the even- Aug. 5. 
 
 i'ng crofs over to Skie : fee, near the fhore, cut on the live rock, an 
 infcription in rude characters. It muft have been of great antiquity, 
 as it was difcovered by the accidental digging of peat at the depth 
 of four feet. 
 
 Weigh anchor at eight o'clock in the morning, and turn out with Aug. 6. 
 
 wind and tide adverfe. After a ftruggle of three or four miles, 
 put into Loch-Jurn, or the lake of hell, on the Invernefs coaft, and Loch-Jvrv. 
 anchor about two o'clock near a little ifle on the South fide, 
 four miles within the mouth. Land on the North fide, three miles 
 diftant from our fhip, and vifit Mr. Alackod, of Ami/dale-. I 
 mall never forget the hofpitality of the houfe : before I could 
 litter a denial, three glafles of rum cordialized with jelly of 
 bilberries, were poured into me by the irrefiftible hand of good 
 Madam Macleod. Merits. Lightfoot and Stuart fallied out in high 
 fpirits to botanize : I defcended to my boat to make the voyage 
 of the lake. 
 
 Steer S. E. After a fmall fpace the water widens into a large 
 bay, bending to the South, which bears the name of Barrifdale : turn 
 fuddenly to the Eaft, and pafs through a very narrow ftrait, with fe- 
 veral little iiles on the outfide •, the water of a great depth, and the 
 tide violent. For four miles before us the loch was ftrait, but of an 
 oval form •, then fuddenly contracts a fecond time. Beyond that 
 was another reach, and an inftantaneous and agreeable view of a 
 great fleet of bufifes, and all the bufy apparatus of the herring 
 fifhery ; with multitudes of little occafional hovels and tents on the 
 fhore, for the accommodation of the crews, and of the country 
 
 E e e 2 people s
 
 5 gfc A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 people who refort here at this feafon to take and fell herrings to 
 the Grangers. An unexpected fight, at the diftance of thirteen 
 miles from the fea, amidft the wildeft fcene in nature. 
 
 A little farther the loch fuddenly turns due South, and has a 
 very narrow inlet to a third reach : this ftrait is fo mallow as to be 
 fordable at the ebb of fpring-tides ; yet has within, the depth of 
 ten and feventeen fathom : the length is about a mile ; the breadth 
 a quarter. About feven years ago it was fo rilled with herrings, 
 that had crowded in, that the boats could not force their way, 
 and thoufands lay dead on the ebb. 
 
 The fcenery that furrounds the whole of this lake has an Alpine 
 wildnefs and magnificence; the hills of an enormous height, and 
 for the moll part cloathed with extenfive forefts of oak and 
 birch, often to the very fummits. In many places are extenfive 
 traits of open fpace, verdant, and only varied with a few trees 
 fcattered over them : amidft the thickeft woods afpire vaft grey 
 rocks, a noble contrail ! nor are the lofty headlands a lefs em- 
 beilifhment - y for through the trees that wave on their fummit, is 
 an awful fight of fky, and fpiring fummits of vafl mountains. 
 Pinb forkst*. On the South fide,, or the country of Knodyart, are vaft num- 
 
 bers of pines, fcattered among the other, trees, and multitudes of 
 young ones fpringing up. A conflagration had many years ago 
 deftroyed a fine foreft •, a lofs which in a little time, it is to be 
 hoped will be repaired. Befides this, I can add fome other pine 
 forefts to my former lift * : that near Loch-maree ; Abernethy^ and 
 Roth-murchu *, both belonging to gentlemen of the name of Grant j 
 
 * ift, 2d, 3d edit. pp. 183, 194, 21Z. 
 
 Glen-more,
 
 HEBRIDES* 
 
 Glen-more, the Duke of Gordon's ; and Glen-taner, the property of 
 Lord Aboyne. Our old botanifts are filent about thefe Briti/h pro- 
 ductions, till the time of Mr. Evelyn and Mr. Ray. This fpe- 
 cies of pine feems not to have been cultivated in England, till the 
 former, as*he fays, received fome feeds from that unhappy per- 
 fon, the late Marquis of Argyle : but Speed, in his chronicle, 
 mentions the vaft fize of thofe on the banks of Loch Argicke, and 
 their fitnefs for malts, as appeared by the report from commif- 
 fioners fent there for that purpofe, in the time of James VI *. 
 Taylor, the water^poet, fpeaks in high terms of thofe in Brae-mar, 
 
 * That there are as many as will ferve to the end of the world, 
 
 * for all the fhippes, carracks, hoyes, galleys, boates, drumlers, 
 6 barkes and water craftes, that are now in the world, or can be 
 t thefe forty yeares -f-. 5 
 
 It is not wonderful, that the imagination, amidfl thefe dark- 
 fome and horrible fcenes, mould figure to itfelf ideal beings, once 
 the terror of the fuperftitious inhabitants : in lefs-enlighten'd times Spectke» 
 a dreadful fpectre haunted thefe hills, fometimes in form of a 
 great dog, a man, or a thin gigantic hag called Glas-lich, The 
 exorcift was called in to drive away thefe evil Genii: he formed 
 circle within circle, ufed a multitude of charms, forced the Damon 
 from ring to ring, till he got it into the lafl entrenchment, when 9 
 if it proved very obftinate by adding new fpells, he never failed of 
 conquering the evil fpirit 3 who, like that which haunted the 
 daughter of Raguel, was 
 
 *• S/ttd's chronicle, p. g3. f Pennilefle pilgrimage, 136. 
 
 WMi. 
 
 397
 
 39 3 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 With a vengeance fent 
 From Media poll to Egypt, there faft bound. 
 
 In our return from the extremity of this fequeftered fpot, are 
 moft agreeably amufed with meeting at leaft a hundred boats, row- 
 ing to the place we were leaving, to lay their nets ; while the per- 
 fons on more were bufied in lighting fires, and preparing a repaft 
 for their companions, againfl their return from their toillbme 
 work. 
 
 So unexpected a profpect of the bury haunt of men and mips 
 in this wild and romantic tract, afforded this agreeable reflection : 
 that there is no part of our dominions fo remote, fo inhofpitable, 
 .and fo unprofitable, as to deny employ and livelihood to thou- 
 sands -, and that there are no parts lb polifhed, fo improved, and fo 
 fertile, but which muft ftoop to receive advantage from the dreary 
 fpots they fo affectedly defpife •, and muft be obliged to acknow- 
 lege the mutual dependency of part on part, howfoever remotely 
 placed, and howfoever different in modes or manner of living. 
 ■ Charles Brandon's addrefs to his royal fpoufe may well be applied 
 to both extremes of our ifle : 
 
 Cloth of gold, do not defpife, 
 
 Altho' thou art match'd with cloth of frizc. 
 
 Cloth of frize, be not too bold, 
 
 Altho' thou art match'd with cloth of gold. 
 
 Return to Ami/dale, and pafs a moft chearful evening. Mr. 
 Lightfoot returned happy in having found the azalea procumbent : 
 Mr. Stuart loaden with fine fpecimens of amianthus and black 
 talc* 
 
 Return
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 399 
 
 Return on board at midnight : the night moll excefiive dark ; 
 but every ftroke of our oars, every progrefiive motion of our boat, 
 jfluno- a moit refplendent glory around, and left fo long and lumi- Noctilucous 
 
 i L r j i r WORMS. 
 
 nous a train in our wake, as more than compeniated the want of 
 flars in the firmament. This appearance was occafioned by myri- 
 ads of noctilucous Nereids, that inhabit the ocean, and on every 
 agitation become at certain times apparent, and often remain 
 flicking to the oars, and, like glow-worms, give a fine light. Mr. 
 Thompfon informed us, that they were mod brilliant before rain 
 and tempefts. He was not deceived in his predictions. 
 
 There is not an inftance of any country having made fo fudden 
 a change in its morals as this I have juft vifited, and the vail tract Highland 
 intervening between thele coafls and Loch-nefs. Security and ci- robbers. 
 
 vilization poflfefs every part ; yet thirty years have not elapfed 
 fince the whole was a den of thieves, of the mod extraordinary 
 kind. They conducted their plundering excurfions with the utmofc 
 policy, and reduced the whole art of theft into a regular fyftem. Systematic. 
 From habit it loft all the appearance of criminality : they confi- 
 dered it as laboring in their vocation •, and when a party was 
 formed for an expedition againft their neighbor's property, they 
 and their friends prayed as earneftly to heaven for fuccefs, as if 
 they were engaged in the moll laudable defign. 
 
 The conftant petition at grace of the old highland chieftains, 
 was delivered with great fervor, in thefe terms : ' Lord ! 'Turn the Their grace,, 
 fc world upftde down, that cbrijlians may make bread out of it? The 
 plain Englijlo of this pious requeft was, That the world might be- 
 come, for their benefit, a fcene of rapine and confufion. 
 
 They paid a facred regard to their oath j but as fuperftition Oaths> 
 
 mu(l>
 
 4oo A VOYAGE to the 
 
 muft, among a fet of Banditti, infallibly fuperfede piety ; each, 
 like the diftin<5t cads of Indians, had his particular object of ve- 
 neration : one would fwear upon his dirk, and dread the penalty 
 of perjury ; yet make no fcruple of forfwearing himfelf upon the 
 bible : a fecond would pay the lame refpect to the name of his 
 chieftain : a third again would be moft religioufly bound by the 
 facred book : and a fourth, regard none of the three, and be cre- 
 dited only if he fwore by his crucifix. It was always neceffary 
 to difcover the inclination of the perfon, before you put him to the 
 ted : if the object of his veneration was miftaken, the oath was 
 of no fignification. 
 Hospitality The greateft robbers were ufed to preferve hofpitality to thofe 
 
 and fidelity* t j iat came t0 t heir houfes, and, like the wild Arabs, oblerved the 
 ftricteft honor towards their guefts, or thofe that put implicit con- 
 fidence in them. The Kennedies, two common thieves, took the 
 young pretender under protection, and kept him with faith invio- 
 late, notwithstanding they knew an immenfe reward was offered 
 for his head. They often robbed for his fupport, and, to fupply him 
 with linen, they once furprized the beggage horfes of one of our 
 general officers. They often went in difguife to Invernefs to buy 
 provifions for him* At length, a very confiderable time after, 
 one of thefe poor fellows, who had virtue to refift the temptation 
 of thirty thoufand pounds, was hanged for Healing a cow, value 
 thirty (hillings. 
 
 The greateft crime, among thefe felons, was that of infidelity 
 among themfelves : the criminal underwent a fummary trial, and, 
 if convicted, never miffed of a capital punifhment. The chief- 
 tain had his officers, and different departments of government ; 
 
 he 
 
 Government.
 
 HEBRIDES, / 401 
 
 he had his judge, to whom he entrufted the decifion of all civil dis- 
 putes : but in criminal caufes, the chief, affifted perhaps by fome 
 favorites, always undertook the procefs. 
 
 The principal men of his family, or his officers, formed his 
 council ; where every thing was debated refpecting their expedi- 
 tions. Eloquence was held in great efteem among them, for by 
 that they could fometimes work on their chieftain to change his 
 opinion ; for, notwithstanding he kept the form of a council, he 
 always referved the decifive vote in himfelf. 
 
 When one man had a clame on another, but wanted power to 
 make it good, it was held lawful for him to fteal from his 
 debtor as many cattle as would fatisfy his demand, provided he 
 lent notice (as foon as he got out of reach of purfuit) that he had 
 them, and would return them, provided fatisfaction was made on 
 a certain day agreed on. 
 
 When a creach or great expedition had been made againft dis- 
 tant herds, the owners, as foon as difcovery was made, rofe in 
 arms, and with all their friends, made inftant purfuit, tracing the Tracing of 
 cattle by their track for perhaps fcores of miles. Their nicety in 
 •diftinguifhing that of their cattle from thofe that were only cafu- 
 ally wandering, or driven, was amazingly fagacious. As foon as 
 they arrived on an eftate where the track was loft, they immedi- 
 ately attacked the proprietor, and would oblige him to recover 
 the track from his land forwards, or to make good the lofs they had 
 fuftained. This cuftom had the force of law, which gave to the 
 Highlanders this furprizing {kill in the art of tracking. 
 
 It has been obferved before, that to Ileal, rob and plunder 
 with dexterity, was efteemed as the higheft act of heroifm. The 
 
 F f f feuds 
 
 CATTLE.
 
 402 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 feuds between the great families was one great caufe. There wss 
 not a chieftain but that kept, in fome remote valley in the depth 
 of woods and rocks, whole tribes of thieves in readinefs to let 
 loofe agafnft his neighbors •, when, from fome public or private 
 reafwi, be did not judge it expedient to relent openly any real or 
 imaginary affront. From this motive the greater chieftain- 
 robbers always fupported the lefler, and encouraged no fort of 
 improvement on their eftates but what promoted rapine. 
 
 Chiefs. The greatcft of the heroes in the laft century, was Sir Ewin 
 
 Sir Ewin Ca- ° ..... 
 
 mer-on. Cameron, whole life is given in the other volume. He long re- 
 
 filled the power of Cromwel, but at length was forced to fubmic. 
 He lived in the neighborhood of the garrifon fixed by the ufurper 
 at Inver lochy. His vaffals perfifted in their thefts, 'till Crom- 
 wel lent orders to the commanding-officer, that on the next rob- 
 bery he fhould feize on the chieftain, and execute him in twenty-four 
 hours, in cafe the thief was not delivered to juftice. An act of 
 rapine foon happened : Sir Ewin received the meffage. •, who, in*- 
 Head of giving himfelf the trouble of looking out. for the offen- 
 der, laid hold, of the firfl fellow he met with, fent him bound to 
 Inver- lochy, where he was inftantly hanged. Cromwel, by this fe.- 
 verity, put a flop to thefe exceffes, 'till the time of the reftora- 
 tion, when they were renewed with double violence, 'till the year 
 
 *745- 
 Rob-Roy. Rob-Roy Mac-gregor was another diftinguilhed Hero in the lat- 
 
 ter end of the laft, and the beginning of the prelent century. 
 He contributed greatly towards forming his profeffion into a fci- 
 encej aad eftablifhing the police above mentioned. The duke of 
 
 Montrofi
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 403 
 
 Montrofe unfortunately was his neighbor : Rob-Roy frequently 
 faved his grace the trouble of collecting his rents •, ufed to extort 
 them from the tenants, and at the fame time give them formal 
 difcharges. But it was neither in the power of the duke or of 
 any of the gentlemen he plundered to bring him to juftice, fo 
 ftrongly protected was he by feveral great men to whom he was 
 ufeful. Roy had his good qualities : he fpent his revenue gener- 
 oufly •, and ftrange to fay, was a true friend to the widow and 
 orphan. 
 
 Every period of time gives new improvement to the arts. A 
 fon of Sir Evuin Cameron refined on thofe of Rob-Roy, and in- 
 ftead of diffipating his gains, accumulated wealth. He, like Jo- 
 nathan Wild the Great, never ftole with his own hands, but con- 
 ducted his commerce with an addrefs, and to an extent unknown 
 before. He employed feveral companies, and fet the more adroit 
 knaves at their head - t and never fuffered merit to go unrewarded. 
 He never openly received their plunder ; but employed agents to 
 purchafe from them their cattle. He acquired confiderable pro- 
 perty, which he was forced to leave behind, after the battle of 
 Culloden gave the fatal blow to all their greatnefs. 
 
 The laft of any eminence was the celebrated Barrifdale, who 
 carried thefe arts to the higheft pitch of perfection : befides ex- 
 erting all the common practices, he improved that article of com- 
 merce called the black-meal to a degree beyond what was ever 
 known to his predecelTors. This was a forced levy, fo called from 
 its being commonly paid in meal, which was raifed far and wide 
 on the eftate of every nobleman and gentleman, in order that their 
 cattle might be fecured from the lefler thieves, over whom he fe- 
 
 F f f 2 cretly 
 
 Ludowick Ca- 
 meron. 
 
 Mac-donald of 
 
 Barrisdale.
 
 404 
 
 A V Y A G E to the 
 
 cretly prefided, and protected. He raifed an income of five hun- 
 dred a year by thefe taxes ; and behaved with genuine honor in 
 reftoring, on proper confideration, the flolen cattle of his friends. 
 In this he bore fome refemblance to our Jonathan •, but differed, 
 in obferving a ftrict fidelity towards his own gang j yet he was 
 indefatigable in bringing to juflice any rogues that interfered with 
 his own. He was a man of a polifhed behaviour, fine addrefs, 
 and fine peribn. He confidered himfelf in a very high light, as 
 a benefactor to the public, and preferver of general tranquillity ; 
 for on the filver plates^ the ornaments of his Baldrick, he thus 
 addreffes his broad-fword, 
 
 Hae tibi erunt artes, pacis componere mores : 
 Parcere fubje&is et debellare fuperbos. 
 
 Aug. 7. After a mod tempeftuous and rainy night, fail at eight o'clock 
 
 in the morning, defigning to reach the found of Mull; but the 
 wind proving contrary, we ran over to IJle Oranfay, in the ifle of 
 Skie 9 a fafe harbor : where we continued confined by adverfe 
 winds till the next day. 
 Ave. 8. At half an hour after one at noon, fail. As foon as we got 
 
 out, we found a vaft fwell from the fury of the laft night's ftorm ; 
 the waves mountanous, but, thanks to a gentle breeze, we made 
 our way finely through them. 
 
 Pafs on the Eaft, Loch-nevijh^ or the lake of Heaven, a fine 
 and picturefque inlet. 
 
 Pol-morrer where fmall craft may lie. About half a mile inland 
 
 from this bay is the great frelh-water lake called Loch-morrer 1 
 
 Arisaic, next is the country of Arifaig\ and its celebrated point : for within 
 
 this,
 
 HEBRIDES. 405 
 
 this, a little to the South, in Loch-nan-ua, or the bay of caves, 
 landed the young pretender, on July 25, 1745; and from hence 
 concluded his Phaetontic expedition, September 20th of the follow- 
 ing year. The two frigates that lay there in May of the fame fum- 
 mer, with arms and ammunition, had an engagement off this point 
 with two of ours ; and maintained their ftation. They landed 
 part of their flores, but rinding the caufe defperate, returned to 
 France with feveral of the fugitives from the battle of Culloden. 
 
 Sail by Loch Hallyort, and the country of Moydart, the moil Moydart. 
 foutherly part of the (hire of Inverness. Leave to the Weft the 
 point of Slate in Skie : the vafb hills of Bla-ven and Cuchullin 
 open to view : then fucceeds the mountanous Rum ; keep dole un- 
 der the ifle of Egg, diftinguifhed by the lofty fpire of Squr-egg. 
 Pafs immediately under the point of Ard-na-murchan, the moft Point of Ard- 
 northern part of Argylejhire. Turn into the found of Mull, a fine 
 opening five miles broad : to the E. of the point is Loch-funart, 
 penetrating deeply into the country of Morvern. At the head, 
 is Strontian, noted for a lead mine. About nine o'clock at night 
 anchor in 'Tobir Moire bay, in the ifle of 
 
 NA-MURCHAJT. 
 
 M u 
 
 L L. 
 
 BAY. 
 
 This bay is a moft beautiful circular bafon, formed by Mull on Tobir-moire 
 one fide, and the ifle of Calve on the other. All the banks are 
 verdant and embellifhed. at this time with three cafcades. It 
 takes its name from a chapel and well, dedicated to the Virgin 
 Mary. Here in 1588 the Florida, one of Philip's invincible Ar- 
 mada was blown up after the difperfion of the fleet : fome fay by 
 
 accident \
 
 4o6 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 accident ; others by the defperate refolution of a Scotchman. Se- 
 veral attempts were made to recover the funk treafure. One in 
 1688, by Willjam Sacheverel Efq-, who fitted up diving bells ; and 
 tried them with fuccefs at the depth of ten fathom : and report 
 fays, he got up much treafure. A piece of the wreck was given 
 me by an old inhabitant of the place; to be preferved in memory 
 of this fignal providence, fo beautifully acknowleged by Queen 
 Elizabeth in the motto of the medal ftruck on the occafion : 
 
 Afflavit Deus, et dijjipantur. 
 
 In this bay alfo the unfortunate Earl of Argyle may be faid to 
 have wrecked both life and fortune, in the year 1686: for in this 
 place he made the firft landing with a few friends, in his fatal in- 
 vafion in concert with the unhappy Duke of Monmouth. The mod 
 inhuman medal I ever faw (next to that in memory of the maffa- 
 cre of Paris, by Charles IX.) is one in my poflefiion, ftruck by 
 James II. on occafion of the fad cataftrophe of thefe two noble- 
 men. Their heads are placed on two altars, at whofe bafe are 
 their bleeding corpfes : the motto, 
 
 Ambitio malefuada ruit. 
 
 A little north is Bloody bay, fo called from a-fea-fight between 
 a Mac-dcnald of the ifles, and his fon. The former was fupported 
 by Heftor Obhar Macleane, the fame, who died glorioufly at the 
 battle of Floddon, covering his monarch, James IV. from the arrows 
 of the Englijh archers. 
 
 On the oppofite fliore of Morvern is Dun-an-gal 9 a ruined caftle 
 of the Mackams. In this the rebels of 17 19 put a fmall gar- 
 
 rifon 5
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 407 
 
 rifon •, which foon furrendered to one of our men of war that 
 attacked it. 
 
 Leave Holer Moire at eight o'clock in the morning ; and about Aug. 9. 
 
 half an hour paft ten, anchor oppofite to Aros cattle, feated on a Aros. 
 
 rock above the fea, and once- a feat of Mac-donald of the ifles. 
 At the foot of the rock is the ruin of an oval pier, where he 
 iecured his boats. 
 
 Breakfaft with Mr. Camphel, of Aros, and collect a few par- 
 culars of this rough ifland : that it is twenty-four Scotch miles long, 
 and about the fame in breadth •, that it is divided into three great Mull 
 
 parifhes, viz. Toracy, Rofs, and Kilmore, or Kil-ninian, containing some account 
 in all near four thoufand catechifable perfons ; that it is in general ° F ' 
 
 rocky and barren, and does not yield corn enough for its inhabi- 
 tants ; that it fends out annually about eighteen hundred head of 
 cattle, fold from thirty to fifty fhilLngs a-piece-, that there are 
 but few iheep •, that the graziers have fuffered greatly this year 
 by the lofs of cattle ; but that none of the people have as yet 
 migrated. That the ufual manure is fhell fand, which the far- 
 mers procure from Tir-ey. That there is coal in the ifland nearly 
 inacceflible by the badnefs of the roads ! and that this moft im- 
 portant article, which alone would bring wealth and comfort to the 
 ifles, is unaccountably neglected ! 
 
 The ifland originally was part of the dominions of the Lords of 
 the Ifles •, but in after-times became the pofTefllon of the antient 
 and valiant famiyy of the Macleanes, who ftill retain half. The 
 other moiety is the litigated property of the duke of Argyle \ whofe 
 anceftor pofiefTed himielf of it in 1674, on account of a debt : and 
 
 after.
 
 4o3 A VOYAGE to th t 
 
 after the courts of law had made an adjudication in his favor, he 
 was obliged to fupport their decree by force of arms. 
 
 Sail again down the Sound, which in general is about four miles 
 broad : the coaft on both fides flopes and is patched with corn- 
 Morvern. land. The northern coaft is Morvern, the celebrated country of 
 
 Fingal. 
 
 Leave on that fide Loch-aylin, a fafe harbour, with a mod con- 
 tracted entrance. A little farther is Cajlle-ardtomifo, a ruin on a 
 low headland jutting into the found, where in 146., John Earl of 
 Rofs, and lord of the ides, lived in regal flate *. His treaty with 
 Edward IV. is dated, ex cajlello nojlro Ard-thornis Oct™. 19. A. D. 
 1461 f. 
 
 On the Mull fide is Mac-allejler\ bay, and below that, where 
 Castle-duart. the found opens to the Eaft is Cafile-duart, once the feat of the 
 Macleanes, lords of the ifland -, but now garrifoned by a lieutenant 
 and a detachment from Fort-William. Morvern, near ArdtorniJh y 
 begins to grow lofty and wooded j and Mull beyond this caftle 
 appears very mountanous. 
 
 Traverfe the broad water of Locb-linnbe, which leads up to 
 Lochaber. Have a fine view of the vail mountains, and the pic- 
 turefque hills of Glen-co. Pafs the fouthern end of Lifmore, and 
 fleer north between that ifle and Middle Lorn. Sail by the ifle of 
 Kerrera isle. Kerrera, noted for the death of Alexander II. in 1249, while he 
 lay there with a mighty fleet meditating the conqueft of the He- 
 hides, then pofifeiTed by the Norwegians. 
 
 * Guthrie, iv. 68. f Rymer's Fad. xi. 487. 
 
 Oppofite
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 409 
 
 Oppofite to this ifland, in Lorn, is the bay of Oban, where are the 
 cuftom-houfe and poll-office. 
 
 On a great rock within land, precipitous on three fides, is the 
 caftle of Dunolly, once the refidence of the chieftains of Lorn. 
 
 Continue our courfe ; and palling with difficulty through a very 
 narrow found, formed by the Ilan Bench, and the main-land, arrive 
 in a fine bay. Anchor under the antient caftle of Dun-staffage, 
 or Stephen's Mount -, and inftantly receive, and accept, a moft polite 
 invitation from the owner, Mr. Campbel. 
 
 This caftle is fabled to have been founded by Ewin, a PicJift Dun-staffacs, 
 monarch, cotemporary with Julius Cafar, naming it after himfelf 
 Evonium. In fact, the founder is unknown ; but it is certainly of 
 great antiquity, and the firft feat of the Pitlijh and Scottijh princes. 
 In this place v/as long preferved the famous ftone, the Palladium of 
 North-Britain ; brought, fays Legend, out of Spain, where it was firft 
 ufed as a feat of juftice by Gethalus, coeval with Mofes. It continued 
 here as the coronation-chair till the reign of Kenneth thefecond, who 
 removed it to Scone, in order to fecure his reign ; for/accordino- to the 
 infcription, 
 
 Ni fallatfatum, Scott, quocunque locatum 
 Invcnient lapidem, regnare tenentur ibidem. 
 
 Mr. Campbel fhewed to me a very pretty little ivory image, found 
 in a ruinous part of the caftle, that was certainly cut in memory of 
 this chair, and appears to have been an inauguration fculpture. A 
 crowned monarch is reprefented fitting in it, with a book in one hand, 
 as if going to take the coronation oath. 
 
 The caftle is fquare ; the infide only eighty-feven f^t -, partly 
 
 G g g ruinous,
 
 4io 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 ruinous, partly habitable. At three of the corners are round towers; 
 one of them projects very little. The entrance is towards the fea at 
 prefent by a flair-cafe, in old times probably by a draw-bridge, which 
 fell from a little gateway. The mafonry appears very antient : the 
 tops battlemented. This pile is feated on a rock, whofe fides have 
 been pared to render it precipitous, and to make it conform to the 
 fhape of the caftle. 
 
 In 1307, this caftle was pofTefTed by Alexander Mac-dougal, lord of 
 Argyle, a friend to the Englijh ; but was that year reduced by 
 Robert Bruce, when Mac-dougal fued for peace with that prince, and 
 was received into favor *. 
 
 I find, about the year 1455, this to have been a refidence of the 
 Lords of the ijles ■, for here James lafl earl of Douglas, after his defeat 
 in Annandale f, fled to Donald the regulus of the time, and prevaled 
 on him to take arms, and carry on a plundering war, againft his 
 monarch James the fecond. 
 
 Chapel. At a fmall diftance from the caftle is a ruined chapel, once an 
 
 elegant building, and at one end an inclofure, a family cemetery, 
 built in 1740. Oppofite to thefeis a high precipice, ending abrupt, 
 and turning fuddenly toward the South-Eaft. A perfon concealed 
 in the recefs of the rock, a little beyond the angle, furprizes friends 
 ftationed at fome diftance beneath the precipice, with a very remark- 
 
 Echo. able echo of any word, or even fentence he pronounces, which reaches 
 
 the laft diftincl: and unbroken. The repetition is finglej but remark- 
 ably clear. 
 
 Ave. 10. After breakfaft ride along the edge of a beautiful bay 3 with 
 
 * Barhosif, f Lives of the DouglaJJes, 203. 
 
 the
 
 XUV 
 
 3.54 
 
 ITGrgj/Mk jPeiiv l 
 
 .ft .J&nvrrr/ Si:
 
 HEBRIDES. 4 u 
 
 the borders fertile in fpots. The bear almofl ripe. Crofs a ferry 
 
 at Connel or Conf 'bull, or the raging flood, from a furious cataract of Fall 0F £onnel; 
 
 fait water, at the ebb of fpring tides. This place is the difcharge of 
 
 the waters of Loch-etive into the fea ; where it fuddenly contracts to 
 
 afmall breadth; and immediately above, certain rocks jut out, which 
 
 more immediately direct the vaft pent-up waters to this little ftrait, 
 
 where they gufh out with amazing violence, and form a fall of near 
 
 ten feet. 
 
 Loch-etive runs far up the country, and receives the waters of Loch-Etive: 
 Loch-aw at Bunaw. Here is at times a confiderable falmon fifh- 
 ery ; but at prefent very poor. See at a diflance, on the northern 
 bank, the fite of Ard-chattan, a priory of monks of Vallis Caidium 
 founded A. D. 1230, by Duncan Mac-coul, anceflor of the Mac- 
 dougals of Lorn. Here Robert Bruce is faid to have held a par- 
 lement ; but more probably a council, for he remained lono- 
 mafter of this country, before he got entire pofTeflion of 
 Scotland. 
 
 A mile from Connel, near the fhore, is Ban-mac -Snio chain, the Beregonium. 
 antient Beregonium, or Berogomum. The foundation of this city, 
 as it is called, is attributed, by Apocryphal hiftory, to Fergus II. and 
 was called the Chief in Scotland for many ages : It was at beft fuch a 
 city as Cafar found in our ifland at the time of his invafion •, an 
 Oppidum, or fortified town, placed in a thick wood, furrounded with 
 a rampart and fofs, a place of retreat from invaders *. Alono- the 
 top of the beach is a raifed mound, the defence againft a fudden 
 landing. This, from the idea of here having been a city, is flyled, 
 
 * De Bello Gallico, lib. v. c. 21. 
 
 G g g 2 Straid-
 
 412 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 8iraid-a-mhargai, or market-ftreet : within this are two rude erecl 
 columns, about fix feet high, and nine and a half in girth : behind 
 thefe a peat-mofs : on one fide a range of low hills, at whofo 
 nearefr extremity is an entrenchment called Dun-valire. On the 
 Weftern fide of the morafs is an oblong infulated hill, on whofe 
 fummit, the country-people fay, there had been feven towers : 
 I could only perceive three or four excavations, of no certain 
 form, and a dike round them. 
 
 In mod parts of the hill are dug up great quantities of different 
 Pumices. forts of pumices, or fcoria, of different kinds: of them one is the 
 pumex cinerarius ; the other the P. molaris of hinrtceus ; the laft very 
 much refembling fome that Mr. Banks favored me with from the 
 ifland of Iceland. The hill is doubtlefs the work of a vulcano, of 
 which this is not the only veftige in North-Britain. 
 
 Ride on a fine road to Ard-muchnage, the feat of the late Sir Duncan 
 Campbel; a very hand fome houfe, and well finifhed. Sir Duncan, at 
 the age of forty began to plant, and lived to fee the extenfive planta- 
 tions in his garden, and on the pidturefque hills round his lands, 
 arrive to perfection. The country about rifes into a lofty but 
 narrow eminence, now finely wooded, extending in a curvature, 
 forming one fide of an enchanting bay j the other impending over 
 
 the fea. 
 
 On my return obferve, near the hill of the feven towers, a 
 Druidical circle, formed of round flones placed clofe together. The 
 area is twenty-fix feet in diameter ; and about ten feet diftant from the 
 outfide is an erect pillar feven feet high. At fuch ftones as thefe, 
 my learned friend, the late Dr. William Borlafe *, remarks, might 
 
 • Antig* Gorttwaf* 
 
 have
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 have flood the officers of the high prieft, to command filence among 
 the people ; or fome inferior perfon, verfed in the ceremonies, to 
 obferve that none were omitted, by warning the officiating prieft, in 
 cafe any efcaped his memory. 
 
 Return, and lie on board. 
 
 Weigh anchor at fix o'clock in the morning. Sail by the back August ti. 
 of Loch-nel hill, forming a moft beautiful crefcent, partly culti- 
 vated, partly covered with wood to the fummit. Land near the 
 North end of the ifle of 
 
 L I S M O R E, 
 
 which is about nine miles long, one and a half broad, and contains 
 about fifteen hundred inhabitants *. It derives its name from Laos- 
 »2or, or the great garden : but tradition fays it was originally a great 
 deer foreft ; and, as a proof, multitudes of Rag horns of un- 
 common fizes are perpetually dug up in the moifes. At prefent 
 there is fcarce any wood j but the leffer vegetables grow with 
 uncommon vigour. The chief produce of the land is bear and 
 oats. The firft is raifed in great quantity, but abufed by beino- 
 diftilled into whifky. The crops of oats are generally applied 
 to the payment of rent ; fo that the inhabitants are obliged for 
 their fubfiftence annually to import much meal. 
 
 The ground has in moft parts the appearance of great ferti- 
 lity, but is extremely ill-managed, and much impoverished by 
 excefs of tillage, and neglect of manure. Pit and rock marie are 
 
 • Or between 900 and 1000 examinable perfons. 
 
 found 
 
 413
 
 414 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 found here. The whole ifle lies on a lime-ftone rock, which in 
 many places peeps above ground, forming long feries of low fharp 
 ridges. No ufe can be made of this as a manure for want of fuel to 
 burn it. The peat here is very bad, being mixed with earth ; it 
 muft firft be trampled with the feet into a confiftence ; is then 
 formed into fmall flat cakes, and muft afterwards be expofed on the 
 ground to dry. 
 
 About a hundred head of cattle are annually exported, which are 
 at prefent remarkably fmall : they feem to have degenerated, for I 
 faw, at Ard-tnucbnage, the fcull of an ox, dug up in this ifland, that 
 was of much larger dimenfions than of any now living in Great ' 
 Britain. 
 
 Horfes are in this ifland very fhort-lived. They are ufed when 
 about two or three years old : and are obferved foon to lofe all their 
 teeth. Both they and the cows are houfed during winter, and 
 fed on ftraw. 
 
 Otters are found here : but neither foxes, hares, nor rats. Mice 
 are plentiful, and very deftructive. 
 
 There are three fmall lakes. Two abound with fine trout : the 
 third only with eels. Variety of the duck kind frequent thefe 
 waters during winter. 
 
 Walk up to a DaniJJo fort : at prefent the height is feventeen feet : 
 within the wall is a gallery, and round the area a feat, as in that de- 
 fcribed in Hay. 
 
 Vifit the church, now a mean modern building. In the church- 
 yard are two or three old tombs, with clymores engraven on them : 
 here is alfo a remarkable tomb, confifting of nothing more than a 
 thick log of oak. This fubftitute for a grave- ftone muft have been 
 
 S in
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 415 
 
 in this country of great antiquity, there being no word in the Erfe 
 language to exprefs the laft, it not being flyled Leichd lithidh, a grave 
 Jlone, but Darag lithidh, or a grave log. On a live rock are cut the 
 radii of a dial, but the index is loft. On another rock is a fmall ex- 
 cavated bafon, perhaps one of the rock bafonsof Dr. Borlofe, in times 
 of Druidifm ufed for religious purpofes. 
 
 This iiland had been the fite of the bilhop of Argyle : the fee was 
 disjoined from that of Dunkeld about the year 1200, at the requeft 
 of John the Englijhman bifhop of that diocefe. There are no reliques 
 of the cathedral or the bifhop's houfe, whofe refidence was fuppofed 
 to have been latterly in the caftle of Achanduin, on the Weft fide of 
 the ifle, oppofite to Duart in Mull. 
 
 The inhabitants in general are poor, are much troubled with fore 
 eyes ; and in the fpring are afflicted with a coftivenefs that often 
 proves fatal. At that feafon all their provifions are generally con- 
 fumed i and they are forced to live on fheeps milk boiled, to which 
 the diftemper is attributed. 
 
 The ifle of Lifmore forms but a fmall part of the parifri. The 
 extent is not to be comprehended by an Englijhman. From the 
 point of Lifmore to the extremity of Kinloch-beg is 42 computed 
 miles, befides 9 in Kingerlocb. It comprehends this ifle, Ap- 
 pin Duror, Glenco, Glencreran and Kingerlock, and contains 3000 
 examinable perfons, under the care of one minifter and two 
 mifiionaries. 
 
 Get on board, and have in mid-channel, a moft delightful 
 view: the woods of Loch-nell -, the houfe of Airds \ beyond is the 
 caftle of Ellenjialker, feated in a little ifle ; the country of Appin ; Ellen-stalks*, 
 the yaft mountains of Lochaber j Dunolly^ Li/more, and various 
 
 other
 
 4 i6 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 other ifles of grotefque appearance*. To the South appear the 
 Sidle iflands, Scarba, Jura, and Hay - y and to the Weft, Oranfay and 
 Colon/ay. 
 
 Sail between Inch and the Maire ifles, leaving the noted Slate 
 ifland of Eufdale to the Eaft, and clofe to it Suil and Luing, chiefly 
 the property of the Earl of Breadalbane : within thefe are the har- 
 bours of Eufdale, of Cuain, between Luing and Suil ; Bardrife, off 
 Luing ; and below, is that of Black muil bay. 
 
 Oppoflte to Luing, on the Weft, is a groupe of rough little ifles, 
 of which Plada and Belna-hua are productive of flate. In the broad 
 Rapid tides. t> a f on between thefe and Luing, is a moil rippling tide ; even in this 
 calm forces us along with vaft celerity and violence : the whole fur- 
 face difordered with eddies and whirlpools, rifing firft with furious 
 boilings, driving and vanifhing with the current. Anchor under 
 the Eaft fide, beneath the vaft mountain of 
 
 S c a r b a ; 
 
 an ifland of great height, about five miles long, chiefly covered with 
 
 heath, but on this fide are fome woods, and marks of cultivation. 
 
 Mr. Macleane lives on this fide, and favors us with a vifit, and offers 
 
 Gulph of his fervice to fhew us the celebrated gulph of Corry-vrekan ; which we 
 
 Corry-vrekan. ^ nQt wa j t t jjj morn } n g t0 f eCj as our expectations were raifed 
 
 to the higheft pitch, and we thought of nothing lefs than that it 
 would prove a fecond Mal-Jlrom. We accordingly took a moft 
 fatiguing walk up the mountain, through heath of an uncommon 
 height, fwarming with grous. We arrived in an ill hour, for 
 
 * Among them that of Durisfuire. Vide Title-page; 
 
 the
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 the tide did not fuit, and we faw little more than a very ftrong 
 current. 
 
 This morning we take boat •, and after rowing two miles, land Aug. 12. 
 
 and walk along the rocks till we reach a fit place for furveyino- 
 this phenomenon. The channel between this ifle and Jura is 
 about a mile broad, expofed to the weight of the atlantic, which 
 pours in its waters here with great force, their courfe being di- 
 rected and confined by the found between Colonfay and Mull. 
 The tide had at this time made two hours flood, and ran with a 
 furious current, great boilings, attended with much foam * ; and 
 in many places formed considerable whirl-pools. On the fide of 
 Jura the current dafhes, as is reafonable to fuppofe, againft fome 
 funk rocks. It forms there a mod dreadful backtide, which in 
 tempefls catches up the veffels that the whirl-pools fling into it ; 
 fo that almoft certain destruction attends thofe that are fo unfor- 
 tunate as to be forced in at thofe feafons. It was our ill-luck to 
 fee it in a very pacific ftate, and pafTable without the left 
 hazard. 
 
 The chief whirl-pool lies on the Scarha fide, near the weft 
 end. Here, as that fkilful pilot, Mr. Murdoch Mackenzie, allured 
 me, it is of various depths, viz. 36, 47, 83, and 91 fathoms; 
 and of fome places unfathomable : the tranfitions fudden, from 
 the lefTer to the greater depths : the bottom all fharp rocks 
 with vaft chafms between ; and a fathomlefs one where the greateft 
 vertex lies, from which, to the eaftern end of Scarba, clofe to fhore, 
 the depths are 13, 9, 12. 
 
 • From its varied colours it is called Coire-bhreacain\ or, the fpotted or plaided 
 cauldron. 
 
 Hhh There 
 
 417
 
 4 i8 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 There is another whirl-pool off a little ifle, on the weft end 
 of Jura : which contributes to the horrors of the place. In 
 great ftorms, the tides run at the rate of fifteen miles an hour-, 
 the height of the boilings are faid to be dreadful ; and the whole 
 rage of the waters unlpeakable. It is not therefore wonderful 
 that there mould have been here a chapel of the Virgin, whole 
 alliftance was often invoked, for my hiflorian * fays, that fhe 
 worked numbers of miracles, doubtlefsly in favor of diftreffed 
 mariners. 
 
 Scarba contains forty inhabitants. Mr. Mac-leane the proprietor 
 refides here. When he favored us with his company, he came 
 with two of his fons and their tutor ; for in North Britain, there 
 is no gentleman of ever fo fmall an eftate, but ftrictly attends to 
 the education of his children, as the fure foundation of their fu- 
 ture fortune. A perfon properly qualified and eafily procured at 
 a cheap rate, attends in the family \ where the father fees that 
 juftice is done to them, at far lefs expence than if he fent them to 
 diftant fchools. 
 
 Leave Scarba ; pafs between Nether-Lorn and the ifles of Lu- 
 ing and Suil to the Eaft, and of Toracy and Shuna to the Weft, all 
 inhabited ; and the firft almoft covered with excellent corn. In 
 Toracy is an ancient tower once belonging to the great Mac-donald 
 who made it his half-way hunting feat in his progrefs from Cantyre 
 to his northern ifles : for which reafon it was called Dcg-cajlle : and 
 here he made it a moft laudable rule to refide, till he had fpent the 
 whole of his revenue collected in the neighborhood. According to 
 
 * For dun t lib. n. c. i<h 
 
 the
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 429 
 
 the Report*, thefe ifles, and part of the neighboring mainland, 
 form a parifh, whofe church is in Suil. 
 
 Take boat ; turn at the point of Suil, am carrried by a rapid Eusdale slate 
 tide through the gut of Cuan, vifit Eufdale, the noted flate ifland ; ^ arr ies. 
 whofe length is about half a mile, and compofed entirely of flate, 
 interfered, and in fome parts covered, with whin-ftone, to the 
 thicknefs of fixteen feet: the ftratum of llate is thirty-fix, dipping 
 quick S. E. to N. W. In order to be railed, it is at firfb blafted 
 with powder •, the greater pieces are then divided, carried off in 
 wheel-barrows, and laftly fplit into the merchantable fizes, from 
 eighteen by fourteen inches, to nine by fix : and put on board at 
 the price of twenty millings per thoufand. About two millions and 
 a half are fold annually to England, Norway, Canada, and the 
 Weft-Indies. In the flates are multitudes of cubic pyrit<e. In one 
 place, about fixteen feet above high- water-mark, juft over the 
 flates, is a thick bed of fmall fragments, worn fmooth, as if by 
 the action of the waves ; and mixed with them are multitudes of 
 the common fea fhells : a proof of the vaft retreat of the ocean in 
 thefe parts. 
 
 There are many other good flate quarrries in this neighborhood* 
 as, on the ifles of Suil, Luing, Balna-hua and Kerr era, and fome 
 few oppofite to them on the coaft of Nether- Lorn. 
 
 The boat takes us the length of the Weitern fide of Suil. At 
 the North point, turn into Clachan Firth, the narrower! ftrait 1 ever 
 was in, dividing that ifland from Lorn, in parts fo contracted as 
 would admit the flinging an arch from fhore to fliore. The depth 
 
 * Made by the gentlemen fent, in 1760, by order of the General Assembly?. 
 fco infpett the ftate of religion in the iflands, &c. M, S. 
 
 Hhh 2 is.
 
 420 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 is very various : in fome parts fifty fathoms •, in others, fo mallow 
 as to be fordable at the ebb of fpring-tides. On the banks of the 
 ifland and mainland, the ftrata of ftone rife in form of walls, of a 
 oreat height, and not above two feet and a half thick, extending 
 far, fo as eafily to be miftaken for the bounds of an enclofure. 
 Ard-maddie. Arrived in the beautiful bay of Ard-maddie^ or the height of the 
 
 Wolves. A houfe fmall, but elegant, ftands in front, and the fides 
 of the bay high, entirely cloathed with wood. Here I find the 
 kindeft welcome from my worthy acquaintance, Captain Archi- 
 bald Campbel, tenant here to the Earl of Breadalbane ; who, with 
 the utmoft friendfhip, during the voyage charged himfelf with 
 the care of my groom and my horfes. Here 1^ alfo took leave of 
 Mr. Archibald Thompfov, whofe attention to the objects of my 
 enquiries, obliging conduct throughout, and fkill in his profef- 
 fion, demand my warmeft acknowlegements. Thus ended this 
 voyage of amufement, fuccefsful and fatisfactory in every part, 
 unlefs where embittered with reflections on the fufferings of my 
 fellow-creatures. Gratitude forbids my filence refpecting the 
 kind reception I univerlally met with ; or the active zeal of every 
 one to facilitate my purfuits ; or their liberal communication of 
 every fpecies of information, ufeful or entertaining. 
 
 I retired to my chamber, filled with reflections on the various 
 events of my voyage -, and every fcene by turns prefented itfelf 
 before my imagination. As foon as my eyes were clofed, I dis- 
 covered, that the Jlumber of the body was but the waking of the 
 foul*. All I had feen appeared to have been dull and clouded to 
 
 * BrownV Religh Medici, 
 
 my
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 my apprehenfion, ferving to evince, that our waking conceptions 
 do not match the fancies of our Jleep*. I imagined myfelf again 
 gently wafted down the found of Mull ; bounded on each fide by 
 the former dominions, of mighty chieftains; or of heroes immor- 
 talized in the verfe of Ossian. My bufy fancy was worked into 
 a fpecies of enthufiafm, and for a time it 
 
 Bodied forth 
 The forms of things unknown ; 
 Turned them to fhape, and gave to airy nothing 
 A local habitation and a name. 
 
 A figure, dreffed in the garb of an antient warrior, floated in the 
 air before me : his target and his clymore feemed of no common 
 fize, and fpoke the former ftrength of the hero. A graceful 
 vigor was apparent in his countenance, notwithstanding time had 
 robbed him of part of his locks, and given to the remainder a 
 venerable hoarinefs. As foon as he had fixed my attention, he 
 thus feemed to addrefs himfelf to me : 
 
 Stranger, Thy purpofe is not unknown to me j I have at- 
 
 * tended thee (invifible) in all thy voyage ; have fympathifed 
 
 ' with thee in the rifing tear at the mifery of my once-loved coun- 
 
 c try ; and fighs, fuch as a fpirit can emit, have been faithful 
 
 echoes to thofe of thy corporeal frame. 
 
 Know, that in the days of my exiftence on earth, I poffeffed 
 
 c an ample portion of the tract thou feed to the North. I was 
 
 the dread of the neighboring chieftains ; the delight of my peo- 
 
 * Ibid. 
 
 < pie; 
 
 421
 
 / t z\ 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 pie ; their protector, their friend, their father. No injury the'/ 
 ever received, paffed unrevenged •, for no one excelled me in 
 confering benefits on my clan, or in repaying infults on their 
 enemies. A thoufand of my kindred followed me in arms, 
 wherefoever I commanded. Their obedience was to me implicit, 
 for my word was to them a law : my name, the molt facred of 
 oaths. I was (for nothing now can be concealed) fierce, ar- 
 rogant, defpotic, irritable : my paflions were flrong, my anger 
 tremendous : yet I had the arts of conciliating the affections of 
 my people, and was the darling of a numerous brave. They 
 knew the love I bore them : they faw, on a thoufand occafions, 
 the ftrongeft proofs of my affection. In the day of battle I 
 have covered the weak with my fhield ; and laid at my feet their 
 hoftile antagonifts. The too grateful vaffal, in return, in the 
 next conflict, has fprung before me, and received in his own 
 bofom the fhaft that has been levelled at mine. In retreats from 
 over-powering numbers, I was ever laft in the field. I alone 
 have kept the enemy at bay, and purchafed fafety for my people 
 with a hundred wounds. 
 
 * In the fhort intervals of peace, my hall was filled with my 
 friends and kindred : my hofpitality was equal to my deeds of 
 arms •, and hecatombs of beeves and deer covered my rude but- 
 welcome tables. My neareft relations fat next to me, and then- 
 fucceeded the braveft of my clan ; and below them, the emu- 
 lous youth leaned forward, to hear the gallant recital of our 
 paft actions. Our bards rehearfed the valiant deeds of our great 
 anceflors, and inflam'd our valour by the fublimity of their 
 
 * verfe,
 
 II E B R I D E S. 423 
 
 * verfe, accompanied with the infpiring found of the ear-piercing 
 Peebirechts. 
 
 The crowds of people that attended at an humble diftance, 
 partook of my bounty : their families were my care : for I beheld 
 in their boys a future fupport of the greatnefs of my houfe : an 
 hereditary race of warriors. 
 
 My numerous kindred lived on lands the gift of my difbant 
 progenitors, who took care to plant their children near the main 
 flock : the cions took firm root, and proved, in after-times, a 
 
 ' grateful fhelter to the parent tree, againft the fury of the feverefb 
 
 ' ftorms. Thefe I confidered, not as mercenary tenants, but as 
 the friends of good and of adverfe fortune. Their tenures were 
 eafy ; their Duchas * inviolate. I found my intereft interwoven 
 
 ' with theirs. In fupport of our mutual welfare, they were ena- 
 
 * bled to keep a becoming hofpitality. They cherifhed their 
 ' neighboring dependents; and could receive my vifits in turn 
 
 * with a well-cover'd board. 
 
 ' Strong fidelity and warm friendfhip reigned among us -, dif- 
 
 * turbed perhaps by the momentary gufls of my paffions : the fun 
 c that warmed them might experience a fhort obfcurity ; but the 
 c cloud foon paHed away, and the beams of love returned with 
 
 * improved advantage. I lived beloved and revered : I attained 
 ' the fulnefs of years and of glory •, and finifhed my courfe, at- 
 
 • From Dulhaich, native country. They held their farms at a fmall rent, from 
 father to fon, by a kind of prefcribed right, which the highlanders call'd Duchas* 
 This tenure, in the feudal times, was efteemed facred and inviolable. 
 
 * tended
 
 424 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 tended to my grave with the full Coranich of my lamenting- 
 people. 
 
 ' My progeny for a time f imported the great and wild magni- 
 ficence of the feudal reign. Their diftance from court unfor- 
 tunately prevented them from knowing that they had a fupe- 
 rior •, and their ideas of loyalty were regulated only by the 
 refpect or attention paid to their fancied independency. Their 
 vafials were happy or miferable, according to the difpofition of 
 the little monarch of the time. Two centuries, from my days, 
 had elapfed, before their greatnefs knew its final period. The 
 fhackles of the feudal government were at length {truck off; 
 and poflibly happinefs was announced to the meaneft vaflal. 
 The target, the dirk, and the clymore, too long abufed, were 
 wrefted from our hands, and we were bid to learn the arts of 
 peace-, to fpread the net, to moot the fhuttle, or to cultivate 
 the ground, 
 
 ' The mighty Chieftains, the brave and difinterefted heroes of. 
 old times, by a mofl violent and furprizing transformation, at 
 once funk into the rapacious landlords ; determined to compen- 
 fate the lofs of power, with the encreafe of revenue ; to ex- 
 change the warm affections of their people for fordid trafh. 
 Their vifits, to thofe of their fore-fathers, are like the furveys 
 of a cruel land-jobber, . attended by a let of quick-fighted vul- 
 tures, fkilled in pointing out the moft exquifite methods of op- 
 prefnon, or to inftrucl them in the art of exhaufting their purfes 
 of fums to be wafted in diftant lands. Like the tafk-mafters of 
 Egypt* tne Y require them to make brick without ftraw. They 
 leave them in their primeval poverty, uninftructsd in any art for 
 3 t their
 
 I 
 
 HEBRIDES. 425 
 
 their future fupport ; deprived of the wonted refources of the 
 hofpitality of their Lord, or the plentiful boards of his nume- 
 rous friends. They experience an inftantaneous defertion \ 
 are Rung at once into a new ftate of life, and demand the 
 foftering hand as much as the moft infant colony. When 
 I hover over our vales, I fee the fame nakednefs exift, the fame 
 mifery in habitation, the fame idle difpofition. Would I could 
 havefeen the fame fpirit and vigor as in days of yore ! But the 
 powers of their fouls are funk with opprefiion, and thofe of their 
 bodies loll with want. They look up in defpair at our deferted 
 caftles •, and, worn out with famine and difeafe-, drop into an 
 unnoticed grave. 
 
 6 The ties of affection amongft relations are now no more : no 
 diftinction is at prefent made between proximity of blood, and 
 the moft diftant ftranger. Intereft alone creates the preference 
 of man to man. The thoufands that with joy expected the re- 
 turn of their chieftain, now retire with fullen grief into their 
 cottages ; or, in little groupes, exprefs their rage in curfes both 
 loud and deep. No vaffal now fprings to receive the weapon 
 levelled at the breaft of the Lord, but rather wiflies to plant 
 his own in the bofom of the oppreffor. 
 
 c The antient Native, full of the idea of the manly look of 
 the warriors and friends of his youth, is loft in admiration at the 
 degenerate progeny : feature and habit are changed -, the one 
 effeminated, the other become ridiculous by adopting the idle 
 fafhions of foreign climes : loft to the love of their country ! 
 loft to all the fweet affections of patriarchal life ! What then, 
 may I fay, are the fruits of your travels I What arts have you 
 
 I i i ' brought
 
 4*6 
 
 A VOYAGE to the 
 
 brought home, that will ferve to bring fubfiftence to your peo- 
 ple ? To a-compence them for your drafted revenues ? What to 
 cloath the naked ? To feed the hungry ? To furnifh them with 
 more comfortable protection from the inclemency of the wea- 
 ther ? They require no great matters : a fmall portion of ray- 
 men: j a little meal. With lad companion they learn, that chief- 
 tains ftillexift, who make their people their care: and with envy 
 they hear of the improving ftate of the vafTals of an Argyk, an 
 Atbol, a Breadal/patie, and a Bute. 
 
 Return to your country : inform them with your prefence; 
 reftore to them the laudable part of the antient manners ; era- 
 dicate the bad. Bring them inftructors, and they would learn. 
 Teach them arts adapted to their climate-, they would brave the 
 fury of our feas in riming. Send them materials for the coarfer 
 manufactures ; they would with patience fit down to the loom ; 
 they would weave the fails to waft your navies to victory ; and 
 part of them rejoice to fhare the glory in the mofl diflant com- 
 bats. Select a portion of them for the toils of the ocean : make 
 your levies, enroll them ; difcipline them under able veterans, 
 and fend annually to our ports the fmaller veffels of your tre- 
 mendous navy. Truft them with fwords, and a fmall retaining 
 pay. If you have doubts, eftablifh a place d'armes, in vacant 
 times, the depofite of their weapons, under proper o-arrifon. 
 They would fubmit to any reftricrions ; and think no rertraints, 
 founded on the fafety of the whole, an infringement of liberty, 
 or an invafion of property. Legiflature has given them their 
 manumiffion ; and they no longer confider themfelves as part 
 of the live ftock of their chieftain. Draft them to diftant climes, 
 
 ' and.
 
 HEBRIDES. 
 
 ' and they will facrifice their lives in the juft caufe of government 
 ' with as much zeal as their fore-fathers did under the lawlefs 
 
 * direction of my valiant anceftors. Limit only the time of their 
 c warfare •, fweeten it only with the hopes of a return to their na- 
 
 * tive country, and they will become willing fubftitutes for their 
 ' Southern brethren. Occupied in the foft arts of peace, those 
 6 mould extend your manufactures ; and these would defend your 
 
 commerce. Perfuade their governors to experience their zeal - t 
 c and let courtly favor rife and fall with their actions. Have not 
 
 thoufands in the late war proved their fincerity ? Have not 
 ' thoufands expiated with their blood the folly of rebellion, and 
 ' the crimes of their parents ? 
 
 ' If you will totally neglect them-, if you will not refide among 
 ' them •, if you will not, by your example, inftruct them in the 
 
 * fcience of rural ceconomy, nor caufe them to be taught the ufe- 
 
 * ful arts : if you cannot obtain leave for them to devote them- 
 ' felves to the fervice of their country, by deeds of arms ; do not 
 
 * at left drive them to defpair, by opprefllon : do not force them 
 c into a diftant land, and neceflitate them to feek tranquility by 
 c a meafure which was once deemed the punifhment of the moil 
 ' atrocious criminals. Do not be guilty of treafon againft your 
 ' country, by depriving it of multitudes of ufeful members, 
 c whofe defence it may too foon want, againft our natural enemies. 
 s Do not create a new fpecies of difaffection ; and let it not re- 
 ' ceive a more exalted venom, in a continent replete with the^ 
 e moft dangerous kind. Extremes of change are always the worft. 
 1 How dreadful will be the once-exiftent folly of Jacobitifm % 
 ' transformed into the accurfed fpirit of political libertinifm ! 
 
 I i i 2 ' Leave 
 
 427
 
 42 | A VOYAGE to kc. 
 
 s Leave them (if you will do no more) but the bare power of 
 1 exiftence in their native country, and they will not envy you your 
 1 new luxuries. Wafte your hours in the lap of diffipation : re- 
 4 fio-n yourfelf up to the fafcinations of Acrasia j and fport in the 
 ' Bower of Bliss. Cover your tables with delicacies, at the ex- 
 ' pence of your famifhed clans. Think not of the wretches, at 
 c thofe ieafons, left your appetite for the hors d'ouvres be palled, 
 
 * and you feel a momentary remorfe for deaths occafioned by ye y 
 
 * ye thoughtlefs deferters of your people ! With all my failings, 
 ' I exult in innocence of fuch crimes j and felicitate myfelf oa 
 ' my aerial ftate, capable of withdrawing from the fight of mife* 
 ' ries I cannot alleviate, and of opprefiions I cannot prevent,' 
 
 ITINERARY,
 
 [ 429 ] 
 
 ITINERAR Y. 
 
 Miles. 
 Downing, to 
 
 Lancafter *, gs 
 
 Hefs-Bank, 4 
 
 Cartmel fands, 1 1 
 
 Cartmel, 3 
 
 Ulverftone,. 6 
 
 Whitrig iron-mines, and back to Ulverftone-, 8 
 
 Hawkfhead, 16 
 
 Graithwaite, 5 
 
 Boulnefs, 4 
 
 Amblefide, 7 
 
 Kefwick 16, Ormathwaite 2, 18 
 
 Cockermouth (by Bridekirk); 15 
 
 Whitehaven, 13 
 
 Workington, 8 
 
 Mary-port, 7 
 
 Allanby, 5 
 
 Wigton, 1 1 
 
 Carlifle, 10 
 
 Warwick, Corbie, and back to Carlifle, 12 
 
 Netherby, 12 
 Langholme, and back to Netherby, 
 
 * Vide Itinerary of Tour, 1769, 
 
 SCOT-
 
 43° 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Annan, J 4 
 
 Ruthwel, and back to Annan, 12 
 
 Spring-keld, 7 
 
 Burnfwork-hill, 4 
 
 Hoddam 3, Murraythwaite 1, 4 
 
 <5>mlongan, 4 
 
 Caerlaveroc, 6 
 
 Dumfries, 8 
 
 Lincluden, and back to Dumfries, 3 
 Drumlanrig, 
 
 Morton-caftle 4, Durifdeer 2, Drumlanrig 3, 9 
 
 Lead-hills, 13 
 
 DouMas, 12. 
 
 Lanerk, S 
 
 Hamilton, 14 
 
 Glafgow, 12 
 
 Greenock, and back to Glafgow, 44 
 
 Cruickfton caftle, 4 
 
 Pailley 2, Renfrew 2, Glafgow 5, 9 
 
 Drummond, 17 
 
 Loch- Lomond, 4 
 
 Buchannan, 3 
 
 Glafgow, 20 
 
 Greenock, by land, 21 
 
 2 V O Y-
 
 ITINERARY. 
 VOYAGE. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Mount-Stuart, in the ifle of Bute, 16 
 
 Cil-chattan hill, 5 
 
 Kingarth manfe 2, Rothefay 5, j 
 
 St. Ninian's-Point, ^ 
 
 Jnch-Marnoc, ji. 
 
 Loch-Tarbat, 12 
 
 Loch-Ranza, j^_ 
 
 Brodic caftle, 12 
 
 Fin-mac-cuil's cave, and back to Brodicy 22 
 
 Kirk-michel, Dunfion, and again to Brodic^ I0 
 
 Lamlafli ifle, 5 
 
 Crag of Ailfa, 24 
 
 Campbeltown, 22 
 
 Kilkerran caves, and back, 5 
 
 Bar, I2 
 
 Gigha ifle, 5 
 
 Small ifles of Jura v l ^ 
 
 Ardfin, a 
 
 Paps of Jura, IO 
 
 Port Freebairn, in the ifle of Ilay^ j 
 
 Brorarag, o 
 
 Killarovv, o 
 
 Sunderland, q 
 
 Sanneg cove, and back to Sunderland, IO 
 
 Port Free-bairn, j 3 
 
 Oranfay 
 
 43* 
 
 } 1
 
 422 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Oranfay, 15! 
 
 Killoran, in Colonfay, 9 
 
 Port Olamfay, .1 
 
 Jona, 18 
 
 Cannay, 63 
 
 Loch-Sgriofart, in Rum,' 12 p 
 
 Point of Slate, in Skie, 18 
 
 Mac-kinnon's caftle 5 24 
 
 Sconfer, 10 
 
 Talyfkir, - 18 
 
 Loch-Bracadale, 4 
 
 Crofs the loch, 4 
 
 Dunvegan, 6 
 
 Kingfburgh, . 12 
 
 Dun-Tuilm, 15 
 
 Loch-Broom, 51 
 
 Little Loch Broom, 15 
 
 Dundonnel, 3 
 
 Loch-maree, the Earl end, 1 8 
 
 Loch-maree, the Weft end, 1 S 
 
 Pol-ewe 1, Gairloch, 6, 7 
 
 Mac-innon's caftle, 42 
 
 Glen-elg, 9 
 
 Glen-beg, and back to Glen-elg, 6 
 
 Loch-Jurn, extremity of, 24 
 
 Arnifdale, IO 
 
 Ifle Oranfay, J2 
 
 Ard-na-murchan point, 40 
 
 6 Tobir-
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Tobir-moire bay, in Mull, g 
 
 Aros, 8 
 
 Caftte-Duart, 12 
 
 Dunftaffage, JO 
 
 Beregonium, , 
 
 Ard-muchnage, 2 
 
 Dunftaffage, £ 
 
 Lifmore, * 
 
 Scarba, f g 
 
 Ardmadie, I2 
 
 Circuit round Suil, &c.^ jc 
 
 433 
 
 Kkk INDEX.
 
 [ 434 ] 
 
 N D E X. 
 
 A Page 
 
 ABBOTof Jona, his fingu- 
 "**• lar jurisdiction, 292 
 
 Acmoda, the remoteft of the 
 
 Roman expeditions, 320 
 
 /Emoda, fuppofed to be Shetland, 320 
 Ail/a, crag, 215 
 
 Amblefide, Roman ftation, 41 
 
 Antiquities, 59^79 
 
 Anait, what, 341 
 
 Annan, 95 
 
 Ard-maddie, 420 
 
 Arifaig, the beginning and end 
 of the pretender's expedition, 404 
 
 Ard/nuchnage, 
 
 Aros caftle, 
 
 Armjlrong, Archy, the jefter, 
 where buried, 
 
 Armflrong,Joh}iny, famous plun- 
 derer, 
 
 Arran, ifle of 
 
 Arthuret village, 
 
 Afynt, 
 
 412 
 407 
 
 72 
 
 191 
 
 72 
 
 3 6 5 
 
 B 
 
 Bagpipe, its antiquity, 347 
 
 Banks, fifhing, 3 X 3>3 8 5 
 
 Bajaltic rocks, 334 
 
 Beregonium, 4 1 1 
 
 Bernera barracks, 388 
 
 Bifhop of the IJIes, 293 
 
 Blood of cattle eaten, 386 
 Bonerevor, dangerous rock near 
 
 J and) 276 
 
 Page 
 Boo-Jha-la, a curious Bafaltic 
 
 ifle near Staffa, 303 
 
 Border watches, 77 
 
 Botelor, Sir Thomas, his fine tomb, 10 
 Bothwell church, caftle and battle, 
 
 H3) 144 
 Bourne, Geordie, a famous free- 
 booter, 78 
 Boyde, Zachary's bible, 156 
 Braidjhaigh hall, paintings there, 16 
 Lady Mabel, her ftory, 15 
 Brank, a cure for fcolds, 91 
 Brayton park, antiquities found 
 
 there, 44 
 
 Bridekirk, curious font there, 50 
 Brochan, a highland food, 357 
 
 Brod'ic caftle, in Arran, 195 
 
 Broom, Loch, the Great, 362 
 
 Little, 376 
 
 Broughton, Sir Thomas, a friend 
 
 of Lambert Slmnel, 32 
 
 Broivny, Milton's lubbar fiend, 359 
 Buchanan, 
 
 Burn/work camp, Roman, 
 Burrens, a Roman ftation, 
 Bute, ifle of, 
 
 c 
 
 Caer-laveroc caftle, its fiege, 109 
 Cairns, 206, 209 
 
 Cairn-berg-more, antient fortrefs 
 
 there, 309 
 
 Champbeltowny 119 
 
 Canal 
 
 176 
 103 
 102 
 181
 
 I 
 
 N D E X. 
 
 >.<5 
 
 Page 
 
 Canal Co A, 17 
 
 C:-. '.ay, ifl< of, 311 
 Singular cuftora there, 313 
 
 Cannon/by abby, 80 
 Canoe, Bntijh, where found, 107 
 
 Cantyre, 220 
 
 Cartmel fands, dangerous, 25 
 
 — Monrftery, 26 
 
 Cattle, wild, 124 
 
 Cavalcade, lingular, 312 
 
 Charr, 39 
 
 Chejler, its fmgular ftreets, 1 
 
 ■ Trade, 4 
 
 Chifnal, Colonel, 18 
 
 Claig, caftle of, 246 
 
 Cloifters, lingular, 270 
 
 Clyde, noted falls of, 1 36 
 
 Cly-more, or great fword, 332 
 
 Cockermouth, 5 1 
 
 Coire-ch attach an, 327 
 Cclke, vide Eider-duck. 
 
 Cohnfay ifle, 273 
 
 C'lnmba, St. his hiftory, 278 
 Cclumb-kil, ifle of, vide y^wrf. 
 
 Columba, lake of, in Si/V, 346 
 
 Comlongan caftle, 106 
 
 Cornpafs hill, in Cannay, 316 
 
 Coninjion mere, its beauty, 34 
 
 Conifoed priory, 29 
 Comb, Black, a hill prefaging bad 
 
 weather, 31 
 
 Conjlantine s-celhy 70 
 
 Corbie caftle, 69, 71 
 Coronation of the king of the 
 
 ifles, 258 
 
 Ccrry-vrekan, gulph of, 416 
 
 Coygacb, 364 
 
 Cup of an ox's horn, 339 
 
 Page 
 212 
 162 
 
 3 2 9 
 180 
 
 Cromleh, 
 Cruickfton caftle, 
 Cuchidlin, hills of, 
 Cumray, ifles of, 
 
 D 
 
 Danijh forts, 250,271,336,390,414 
 Danijh names in the iflands, 345 
 
 Days, length of in the Hebrides, 255 
 Dees Mat res, 83 
 
 Dean of Guild, his powers, 146 
 
 Debrteable ground, what, 93 
 
 Denbigh, Earl of, his fine por- 
 trait, 141 
 Denarius, found in Skie, 344 
 Derwent- water, 45, 47 
 Diclis, vide Ambleftde. 
 Dog caftle, • 418 
 Donald, lord of the ifles, rebels, 238 
 Douglas family, and dale, 131 
 
 Tombs of, 134. 
 
 Douglas river, King Arthur's vic- 
 tories near, 16 
 Druidical circles, 412 
 Dru?nlanrig, \ii 
 Drummond parifh, 174. 
 Dumfries, a neat town, 115 
 Dumbarton, George Earl of, his 
 
 portrait, &c. 123 
 
 Dumbarton caftle, ftation of the 
 
 Roman fleet under, 161 
 
 Dundonnel, pidurefque views 
 
 there, 378 
 
 Dunglas fort, 160 
 
 D-unmail-wrays ftones, 42 
 
 Dunoon caftle, 180 
 
 Dunjlajfage caftle, 409 
 
 Dumuihn caftle, 350 
 
 Dunvegan caftle, 337 
 
 Kkk 2 
 
 Dutch
 
 43 6 
 
 i 
 
 N D E Xr 
 
 Page 
 Dutch fervice, Scotch regiments 
 
 in, . 33 2 
 
 Duttons, their fingtilar junfdic- 
 tion, 7 
 
 E 
 
 Eagles, 4° 
 
 Eider clucks, 271 
 Ellen-borough, vide Mary-port. 
 
 EJk, its great clearnefs, 88 
 Eufdale, one of the flate Iflands, 419 
 
 F 
 
 Fairies of the mine, 55 
 
 Fairy-flag, 33^ 
 
 Fingal's cave, in Arran, 206 
 
 . in Staffa, 302 
 
 Fifhing banks, 385 
 Flowcrdale, 384 
 Fox, George, the quaker, 32 
 Frodcfiam, in fiances of longevity- 
 there, 6 
 Frog, gigantic, 194 
 Fitrncfs abby, 31 
 
 Gair-loch, 384 
 
 Gannets, 276 
 
 Garjlang, noted for fine cattle, 22 
 Gigha, moft Eaftern of the He- 
 brides, 224 
 Glain-naidr, 342 
 Glas-lich, the fpectre, 397 
 Glafgow, 1 44 to 158 
 Glen-elg, 388 
 Glen-jheil, battle of, ibid. 
 Goats might be ufefully intro- 
 duced into the Hebrides, 358 
 Gold, where found, 130 
 Graddan, or parched corn, 321 
 Graining, a rare fifh, 12 
 Granite, red, 291 
 
 Page 
 
 94, 
 
 162 
 
 23 
 
 247 
 
 Gratna green, 
 Greenock, 
 
 Grene-baugh caftle, 
 Gull, Arclic, 
 
 H 
 
 Htfbudtf of Solinus, the longiJland,2^\ 
 Halton caftle g 
 
 Hamilton, pictures there, 139 
 
 Hand-fifting, a curious old 
 
 cuftom, 91 
 
 Harfager, Harold, conquers the 
 
 Hebrides, 234 
 
 Harrington and his lady, their 
 
 monument, 27 
 
 Haivkjhead, a fmall town 35 
 
 Hebrides, brief hiftory of, 228 
 Henderfon, Alexander, his por- 
 trait and character, 142 
 • Herrings and herring-fifhery, 
 
 367 to 375 
 Hoddam caftle, antiquities there, 104 
 Holker houfe, pictures there, 28 
 
 Holla?id priory, 19 
 
 Family, their fad hiftory, ibid. 
 Howard, Lord William, his pic- 
 ture, 71 
 Huddlefton, father, his picture, 68 
 
 I 
 
 Hay, ifle of, 249 
 
 Jorrams, the marine fongs of the 
 
 iflanders, 334 
 
 Inch-Marnoc, 187 
 
 Jona, ifle of, 277 
 
 Iron mines in Lancajhire, 30 
 
 Furnaces, 31 
 
 Irvine, fair Ellin, her tragical 
 
 ftory, 101 
 
 Jura, jfland of, 243 
 
 Jura*
 
 I 
 
 N 
 
 D 
 
 Page 
 
 Jura, Paps of, 247 
 
 Small ifles of, harbour, 242 
 
 Jurn, Loch, 395 
 
 K 
 Kef-wick, Druidical temple near, 43 
 Charming lake, 45 
 
 Kings, the tombs of, at Jona, 284 
 Kirkonnel, battle of, 1 00 
 
 Kirk-Patric, end of the Roman 
 
 wall there, 159 
 
 Kilkerran, now Campbeltown, 222 
 Killarow, in Hay, tombs there, 251 
 Kintail, 387 
 
 Knodyart, 396 
 
 Kul-ri, 324. 
 
 Lamlajh, fine harbour, 213 
 
 Lancajhire, beauty of its females, 21 
 Lancajier, 23 
 
 Lanerk, 135 
 
 Langholme, 90 
 
 Lead, black, where found, 48 
 
 Lead-Hills, their wealth, 129 
 
 Library, antient, \nJona y 296 
 
 LiddePs ftrength 85 
 
 Liddefdale, 86 
 
 Lincluden abby 119 
 
 Lifmore ifle, 413 
 
 Locker?nofs, 100 
 
 Loch- Lomond, 174, 177 
 
 Longevity, inftances of, 5, 1 30, 245 
 Loppings of trees food for cattle, 33 
 Lords of the ifles firft afTert an 
 
 independency, 237 
 
 Luagh, what, 327 
 
 M 
 Machrai-Jhanais, a dangerous 
 
 bay, 224 
 
 Mac-kinnon's caftle, 325 
 
 E X. 
 
 Page 
 Magnus, the barefooted, con- 
 quers the Hebrides, 235 
 Marble, 327 
 Maree, Loch, a fine lake, 38 1 
 Marriages, Scotch, fugitive, 94 
 antiently made by the 
 chieftains, 347 
 Mary-Port, antiquities near, 59 
 Maxwells, their feuds, 114 
 Meal magazines, the neceffity 
 
 of, among the Hebrides, 311 
 Mid wives, wonderful power of, 91 
 Minifter's flipend in Cumberland 
 
 formerly, 47 
 
 Molucca beans, feeds fo called, 
 
 call: on more, 265 
 
 Monaftery in Jona, 291 
 
 Mono xy la, or canoes, where found, 107 
 Montrofe, Marquis of ? his por- 
 trait, 1 7 6' 
 Moricambe of Ptolemy, 25 
 Mull ifle, fome account of, 405 
 
 N 
 Natholocus, King, confults a 
 
 witch in Jona, 286 
 
 Nereids, noctilucous, 399 
 
 Netherby, fine collection of an- 
 tiquities there, 73 
 Nether-hall, antiquities there, 60 
 Newby, or fweet- heart abby, 114 
 Nithefdale, 1 21 
 Norton priory, 8 
 Nunnery in Jona, 281 
 
 O 
 
 Oran, St. 285 
 
 Oranfay, ifle 269 
 
 Monaftery there, ibid- 
 
 Orford hall, fine botanic garden 
 
 there, 1 2 
 
 P 
 
 437
 
 43 8 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 P Page 
 
 Paijlcy, 16410172 
 
 Paps of Jtira, 247 
 
 Patric, St. his birth-place, 160 
 Penn, Admiral, his pic~cure and 
 
 chara<5ur, 28 
 
 Penton Lit:, a fine fcene, 86 
 
 Petrel the little, 36-I 
 
 Picls-ivall, 7 1 
 
 Pine forefts, 396 
 
 Pool- ewe, 38 3 
 
 Porter injurioufly taxed in Ire- 
 land, 1 49 
 Potatoes, greatly cultivated, 1 1 
 Pre/Ion, a handfome town, 20 
 — taken by ftorm, 21 
 ■ battle there in 1648, ibid. 
 Prophecies, antient, 366 
 Ptole?ny, his account of the Ebu- 
 
 dcv, or Hebrides, 232 
 
 Pytheas, his fuppofed account of 
 the Hebrides , 228 
 
 a 
 
 ^ueenjbury, William Duke of, 
 
 picture and character, 122 
 
 Querns, 322, 328 
 
 R 
 Ranza bay, in Arran, 191 
 
 Rafa, ifle of, 330 
 
 Red-bank, Lancajhire, battle 
 
 there, 14 
 
 Renfrew, 173 
 
 Robbers, highland, account of, 
 
 399 to 404 
 Rofeneatb, 178 
 
 Rofs, Earls of, and Lords of the 
 
 ifles, 237 
 
 Rothefay caftle, in Bute, 186 
 
 Rum, iile of, 317 
 
 Run-rig farms, what, 201 
 
 Page 
 Ruthwel, fine column there, 96 
 Saitmakers of, 90 
 
 S 
 Salt, neceffity of magazines of, 375 
 Sanda, ifle of, 218 
 
 Sandys, Abp. of York, his epitaph 35 
 Scaipay, ifle of, 326 
 
 Scarba, iflq of, 416 
 
 Second-fight, 323 
 
 Shark, bafking, account of, 192 
 Shell, the drinking, 344 
 
 Shields, antient, 340 
 
 Signs, propriety of thofe in Lan- 
 
 cajhire, 2 1 
 
 Sigurd, his enchanted flag, 339 
 
 Skiddaw hill, 64 
 
 Skit, ifle of, 324 to 361 
 
 Slough-hounds, where to be kept, 78 
 
 Sodor, bifhop of, 293 
 
 Solway-mofs, its eruption, 74 
 
 battle of, 77 
 
 Somerled, Thane of Argyle, flain 
 
 near Renfrew, 172 
 
 Divifion of the Hebrides 
 
 and his other dominions 236 
 
 Staff a, the Bafaltic ifle, 298 to 309 
 
 Standijh church, tombs in, 18 
 
 Hall, ibid. 
 
 Sudereys, the, what, 294 
 
 Sum of cattle, what, 320 
 
 Swartz-moor hall, 31 
 
 Sword, Danijh, 333 
 
 T 
 Taghairm,zwl\d fuperftition, 360 
 Talyjkir, _ 331 
 
 Tarbat, Loch, in Argylejhire, its 
 
 propofed canal, 188 
 
 Tarbat, Loch, in 'Jura, little 
 known, 268 
 
 2 Thirleivater,
 
 I 
 
 N D E X. 
 
 439 
 
 Page 
 Thirleivater, a fine lake, 42 
 
 Tildejly, Sir Thomas, his death 
 
 and monument, 17 
 
 Tobir-moire bay 405 
 
 Tombs in Jona, 284, 286, 290 
 
 in Oranfay, 269 
 
 7/tfy, 251 
 
 Towart caftle, 181 
 
 Tower of Repentance, 105 
 
 Towns, the want of, on the 
 
 Weftern coaft, 385 
 
 Traquair, John, Earl of, his pic- 
 
 ture and character, 
 U 
 Vipers, 
 
 Ufoerjlon, its trade, 
 Urn, 
 Uxelum, 
 
 W 
 Warbois, girl of, her heroical 
 reply, 
 
 123 
 
 263 
 29 
 
 342 
 109 
 
 172 
 
 Pa g e 
 Warrington, its great manufactures 
 
 11 
 
 Warwick, fingular church, 68 
 
 Wedding in Skie, 346 
 
 Wet her el cells, 69 
 
 Whifkey, a deteftable liquor, 221 
 Whitehaven, its fudden encreafe, 53 
 Great coal trade, 54 
 Whitrigs iron mines, 30 
 
 Their antiquity, ibid. 
 Wier river, 
 Wtggan, 
 
 Willows might be ufefully cul- 
 tivated in the Hebrides, 
 Winander mere, its beauty, 
 Winwick, great living, 
 
 Infcription on the church, 
 Workington, 
 
 Y 
 T, or T-columb-cill, vide Jona* 
 
 22 
 *5 
 
 36 
 
 *3 
 
 14 
 
 58 
 
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