BIO/AG, 
 V & E 
 
 SB 
 
 388 
 
 W45 
 
 UC-NRLF 
 
 B >4 
 
 55M 
 
THE VINEYARDS 
 
 OF 
 
 THE WORLD 
 
 THE WINE TRADE CLUB, 
 
 41, SEETHING LANE, 
 
 LONDON, E,C. 
 
 1912 
 

 
 ' 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 DAVIS 
 
 GIFT OF 
 
 MAYNARD A. AMERINE 
 
THE VINEYARDS 
 
 OF 
 
 THE WORLD. 
 
 
 
 v m ft 
 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF 
 THE WORLD. 
 
 LONG before the earth had become 
 habitable, before any sign of ani- 
 mal life had appeared either on land or in 
 the seas, the wild Vine grew from pole 
 to pole, in the warm equable temperature 
 which then enveloped the whole globe. 
 At Brjamslak, in Iceland ; at Bovey Tracey, 
 in Devonshire ; at Sezanne (Marne), in 
 France ; in Silesia ; in the valley of the 
 Rhine; in Switzerland and in many other 
 parts of Europe as well as in America, 
 fossils have been found, which modern 
 palaeontology enables us to recognise as 
 
4 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 dating back to the earliest stages of the 
 crust formation of the earth, and which 
 show distinct impressions of the leaves of 
 different species of wild Vines. Modern 
 science, in this instance, is only confirming 
 the teachings of the book of Genesis, where 
 we read how the Vegetable preceded the 
 Animal Kingdom in the order of creation. 
 We further learn from Holy Writ how 
 Noah planted a vineyard, and how he 
 drank wine and fell to sleep. There is no 
 suggestion, however, that he was the first 
 man who ever drank wine : the fact that 
 he was overcome by it is only incidentally 
 mentioned to bring home the lesson of the 
 undutiful son's conduct and punishment. 
 But, whatever opinions one may have on 
 this point, the fact remains that wine, the 
 naturally fermented juice of the grape, and 
 therefore alcoholic and inebriating when 
 taken to excess, was known, used, and 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 5 
 
 abused, at the earliest known periods of 
 the history of the human race. 
 
 Whether it be Osiris, in Egypt ; Varum, 
 in India ; Samschid, in Persia ; Eleusis 
 and Bacchus, in Greece and in Rome ; 
 we find in all the oldest legends of the 
 East and the mythology of the Ancients, 
 a benevolent divinity who was credited 
 with having introduced viticulture and 
 civilisation. It may truly be said that in 
 every part of the world and among every 
 race, the use of wine is older than the oldest 
 records which have reached us. 
 
 Pickett, in his Origines Indo-Europe- 
 ennes, states that the Aryans introduced 
 viticulture in Egypt, India, Persia, and 
 Greece ; this is also the opinion advanced 
 by Pietro Selleh in his Trattato di Viticul- 
 tura e di Vinificazione. On the other hand, 
 we are told by Sir John Malcolm, in his 
 History of Persia, that viticulture was 
 
6 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 already flourishing in Persia in the reign 
 of King Jensheed, a monarch who is be- 
 lieved to have lived at a very remote date 
 and who is credited with the discovery of 
 fermentation. One of his successors, about 
 the year 3000 B.C., is reported to have 
 undertaken the conquest of the island of 
 Cyprus, because it contained a treasure 
 which a mighty King ought to possess : 
 Wine. 
 
 In Egypt, we have more than mere 
 tradition to rely upon for records of the 
 greatest antiquity. Delchevalerie, in his 
 Illustration Horticole, depicts the scenes of 
 grape-gathering and wine-making which 
 ornament the tomb of Phtah-Hotep, who 
 lived in Memphis, some 4000 years before 
 Christ. Pickering, in his Chronological 
 History of Plants, has reproduced similar 
 glyptic illustrations which he ascribes to 
 the Third Egyptian Dynasty, adding that 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 7 
 
 other representations of Vineyards and full 
 details of the art of wine-making belong to 
 the Fourth, Seventeenth, and Eighteenth 
 Dynasties. Quite recently, the laws of 
 Khammurabi, King of Babylon about B.C. 
 2250, have been discovered and decyphered 
 and have aroused a great deal of interest. 
 This Sovereign appears to have been the 
 great legislator of his dynasty ; his laws 
 contain the most precise regulations con- 
 cerning the sale of wine, and show us the 
 poor retailer of wine to have been harassed 
 by a very severe legislation even in those 
 times. Fines were not in vogue then, but 
 the loss of a limb or of life was the penalty 
 incurred by the seller of wine giving bad 
 quality or short measure or allowing 
 riotous conduct on the premises. 
 
 In China, viticulture flourished from 
 2000 B.C. until the fourteenth century of 
 our era, whilst in Europe and in Africa 
 
8 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 the Phoenicians seem to have taught the 
 art of wine-making in the Peloponese, the 
 Latium, Gaul and the Iberic Peninsula, as 
 well as all along the Mediterranean coast 
 of Africa where they had Colonies. 
 
 The earliest records of ancient Greek 
 and Latin history show that the cultiva- 
 tion of Vineyards and the science of wine- 
 making are coeval with the dawn of 
 civilisation in Greece, the Balkans, Italy, 
 France, Spain, Portugal, Germany, and 
 Britain. Modern discoveries of the lake- 
 dwellings of the Bronze Age, at Castione, 
 near Parma, at Bex, at Wangen and at 
 Varese, prove the vine to have been indi- 
 genous to Europe and that at the remotest 
 date of Western History of which we thus 
 possess documentary evidence, men grew 
 corn and vines. Professor Heer, in his 
 Die Pflanzen der Pfahlbauten, even asserts 
 that he has been able to distinguish in some 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 9 
 
 lacustrine remains, evidence of both wild 
 and cultivated grapes. 
 
 The Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans of 
 old, appear to have all realised the civilising 
 influence of viticulture. Wherever they 
 obtained a sufficiently secure footing in a 
 new country, they taught the " Barbar- 
 ians " to plant and tend vines. In more 
 modern times, the same policy has been 
 followed by the early Christian missionaries 
 who, wherever they went and whenever 
 they were able to build a Church or a 
 Monastery as a permanent abode, taught 
 the heathens the gentle art of viticulture. 
 Some of the choicest vineyards of France 
 and Germany retain to this day names 
 recalling their ecclesiastical origin. In 
 Britain, too, it was the early Christian 
 priests who taught the Saxons how to grow 
 vines where no other crop could be raised 
 and, under their guidance, vineyards were 
 
io THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 planted not only on Kentish chalk and 
 Surrey gravel, but in almost every part 
 of the country, as far North as Scot- 
 land. 
 
 In more recent times, it was the suc- 
 cessors of those early Christian priests who 
 also taught the art of viticulture all along 
 the Pacific coast, from California and 
 Mexico to Peru and Chili. 
 
 It is true that the Vineyards of Britain, 
 if we except those of the Marquis of Bute, 
 in Wales, and of the Royal Horticultural 
 Society, in Surrey, have long ceased to 
 exist, as well as those of Normandy, Bel- 
 gium, and Northern Germany. This is not, 
 however, because vines can no longer be 
 grown in northern latitudes, but because 
 it has been found more profitable for cen- 
 turies past to obtain wine from those 
 foreign lands where the climate, soil and 
 cheaper labour, make it possible to produce 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD, n 
 
 wine of better quality and at lower cost 
 than the home produce. 
 
 The vine will grow in all but arctic and 
 tropical latitudes, but its fruit will only 
 mature to perfection in temperate countries. 
 
 To give an account of every Vineyard 
 at present existing in the world is a task 
 far too difficult to attempt and one which 
 would greatly exceed the limits of our 
 Lecture. We only wish to place before 
 you some general remarks concerning the 
 more important and more interesting Vine- 
 yards of the world, particularly those which 
 produce the wines most popular in this 
 country. 
 
 FRANCE. 
 
 Of all wine producing countries, France 
 is unequalled not only for the quantity, 
 but also for the quality and the great 
 variety of wines she produces. 
 
 The country is divided into eighty-three 
 
12 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 " Depart ements " of which all, with the 
 exception of the eight most northern, pro- 
 duce wine. The vintage of 1911 was a 
 very fine one as regards the quality of 
 the wines made, but the quantity was 
 greatly below the average. Official reports 
 place the productions of wine in France 
 last year at 987,482,100 gallons, but these 
 figures are not final, and we prefer, there- 
 fore, not to make use of them. As to the 
 preceding year, the vintage of 1910 was 
 such an unprecedented failure that it does 
 not give any fair idea of the yearly produc- 
 tion of wine in France. If, however, we 
 take the average of the three preceding 
 years, 1907, 1908 and 1909, none of which 
 was remarkably good, we find that the 
 yearly average production of wine in the 
 country is over one milliard 300 million 
 gallons of wine. By way of a comparison, 
 it may be remarked that the average yearly 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 13 
 
 consumption of French wines in the United 
 Kingdom is only about 3^ million gallons, 
 and that whilst the consumption of wine 
 in France is 26 gallons per head of the 
 population, it is only a quarter of one gallon 
 in England. It is also worthy of notice 
 that, whilst the consumption of wine is 100 
 times greater in France than in England 
 per head of the population, drunkenness 
 is very seldom met with on the other side 
 of the Channel and alcoholism is very much 
 less prevalent amongst our neighbours than 
 in our own country. This is all the more 
 remarkable when one considers that France 
 has never had the benefit of that large 
 number of enthusiastic and energetic total 
 abstinence Societies which have flourished 
 in our midst so long and expended so much 
 money and labour to combat drunkenness. 
 The vineyards of France which interest 
 us most in England are those which produce 
 
I 4 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 Sparkling Champagne and Saumur, Cognac 
 Brandy, Burgundies and Claret. 
 
 Bordeaux. 
 
 Ever since the fourth century, when 
 Ausonius, who was born at Bordeaux in 
 A.D. 309, tells us that they were in demand 
 in Rome, the wines of Bordeaux have been 
 shipped to every part of the Civilised World 
 and have enjoyed a more universal and 
 lasting reputation than any other wine. But 
 not all the wines which have for so many 
 centuries passed through Bordeaux on 
 their way to distant and less-favoured 
 lands, have been the produce of the Bor- 
 deaux vineyards. What we call Claret, 
 in England, and what the French call 
 Vin de Bordeaux is, or should be, the 
 produce of the " Departement ' J of the 
 Gironde, and of no other. In all the neigh- 
 bouring " Departements," vineyards have 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 15 
 
 existed for centuries past and still flourish ; 
 the wines they produce, however, are not 
 entitled to the name of Bordeaux because 
 they are shipped from that port. They 
 were known in England in mediaeval times 
 as red, white, or claret wines from Guienne, 
 Gascony or Languedoc. The appellation 
 " Claret " was originally used to designate 
 the style and not the origin of the wine, but 
 as practically the whole of the light red 
 wines consumed in England came primarily 
 from Bordeaux, the meaning of the name 
 Claret became gradually restricted first to 
 those red and white wines shipped from 
 Bordeaux and later to the Bordeaux wines 
 proper, or the produce of the Gironde. 
 Custom having endowed the name of Claret 
 with a strictly limited geographical meaning, 
 it should not be used in conjunction with 
 any other geographical appellation ; it is 
 as illogical to speak of California Claret, 
 
16 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 for instance, as of Tarragona Port or Italian 
 Champagne. 
 
 The Departement of the Gironde is part 
 of the old Province of Gascony and pro- 
 duces a much greater quantity of fine red 
 and white wines than any other Departe- 
 ment. 
 
 The Vineyards of the Gironde may be 
 divicfed into six principal districts, namely : 
 (i) M6doc ; (2) Graves ; (3) Saut ernes ; 
 (4) Entre-deux-Mers ; (5) Cotes ; and (6) 
 Palus. All these districts are situated on 
 the Garonne, on the Dordogne, or on their 
 confluent, the Gironde, and produce an 
 average of 91,895,019 gallons per annum. 
 
 i. The MEDOC is a strip of low lying land 
 along the left bank of the River Gironde, 
 some six miles wide and about 50 miles 
 long. The best Vineyards are planted on 
 a series of gently swelling elevations of 
 varying heights, which may be likened to 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 17 
 
 some great downs, the soil of which is chiefly 
 composed of silicious gravel and is some- 
 times of a calcareous nature. 
 
 The principal vineyards of the Mdoc, as 
 one leaves Bordeaux and proceeds towards 
 the Bay of Biscay, lie in the districts of 
 Ludon, Macau and Labarde, and on to Can- 
 tenac and Margaux, from the stony and 
 gravelly soil of which are produced some of 
 the most delicate and refined of all Clarets. 
 
 After passing through some few miles of 
 flat country where richer alluvial soil is 
 to be met and a somewhat poorer quality 
 of wine is made, one comes to the Vine- 
 yards of St. Laurent, and the more famous 
 district of St. Julien, in which L^oville, 
 Larose and many other fine growths are 
 situated. From there, one passes into the 
 Pauillac district, where are to be found 
 some of the finest Vineyards in all the 
 Medoc, Here, near the old-fashioned 
 
 B 
 
i8 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 village of Pauillac, on the banks of the broad 
 river, are the celebrated Chateaux of Lafite 
 and Latour, Mouton, Pichon Longueville 
 and Pontet Canet, and more than a score 
 of others, separated from each other and 
 from less famous Vineyards merely by a 
 road or even a path. 
 
 After leaving Chateau Lafite, one enters 
 the St Estephe district where there are 
 fewer Chateaux, but where some very fine 
 wine is also made. At St. Estephe may 
 be said to terminate the " Grands Crus 
 du Medoc," although there is a large 
 quantity of good wine made in districts 
 beyond. 
 
 2. GRAVES. This district is smaller but 
 more picturesque than the Medoc, begin- 
 ning just outside Bordeaux and extending 
 only thirteen miles to the south, and about 
 five and a half miles to the west of the 
 City. The soil is of a light sandy nature 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 19 
 
 full of silicious stones of different sizes and 
 colour to a depth of from two to ten feet. 
 The subsoil varies a good deal, and is either 
 clay, chalk or stone, or formed of a hard 
 kind of very dark sand, known as alios, 
 which contains a ferrugineous matter called 
 " arene." There, again, we have a soil 
 absolutely unfit for any other culture but 
 that of the Vine, which grows there and 
 produces a wine the flavour and sweetness 
 of which more than compensates for the 
 usually small quantity of the yield. The 
 Graves district produces red as well as 
 white wines of very high repute, but the 
 brightest jewel in its vinous crown, and 
 one of which it is justly proud, is the 
 Chateau Haut Brion, which stands at the 
 very gates of Bordeaux. 
 
 3. SAUTERNES. This is but a small dis- 
 trict, comprising Sauternes, Bommes and 
 Barsac, and dedicated almost entirely to 
 
20 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 white wines. The soil differs from that of 
 the Graves district, which it adjoins ; it is a 
 mixture of clay and gravel partly, and clay 
 and chalk. 
 
 The sunny Vineyards of Y'quem, at 
 Sauternes, produce a naturally sweet wine, 
 quite unique, and of unsurpassed excellence. 
 
 4. ENTRE-DEUX-MERS. This district is 
 between the Garonne and the Dordogne 
 and produces a great deal of good red and 
 white wines. 
 
 5. C6xES. The Cdtes wines are those 
 grown on the hills in several parts of the 
 Gironde Departement, and vary therefore 
 greatly in quantity and quality. By far 
 the finest Cotes wines are those of the St. 
 Emilion district on the right bank of the 
 Dordogne. This is quite the most attrac- 
 tive district of the Gironde as it is undulat- 
 ing and abounds in beautiful landscape 
 whilst the old ruins of St. Emilion itself 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 21 
 
 are of great beauty and archeological 
 interest. 
 
 6. PALUS. The Palus wines are those 
 produced by vineyards planted in rich 
 alluvial soil either close to the banks of the 
 Gironde, the Garonne, and the Dordogne, 
 on islands in these rivers or in the plains. 
 These vineyards give usually abundant 
 crops but the quality of the wine made 
 therefrom is distinctly inferior to the pro- 
 duce of any of the other Vineyards of the 
 
 Gironde. 
 
 Cognac. 
 
 Cognac is the name of a small town, on 
 the river Charente, in the heart of a wine- 
 growing district which produces the finest 
 Brandies in the World. As far back as 
 the reign of King John, and for many 
 centuries after, the wines of Saintonge, 
 Aunis and Angoumois were shipped to 
 England as Rochelle wines and sold at 
 
22 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 cheaper rates than any others. These 
 Wines were considered thin and light then 
 and such are still their characteristics to- 
 day ; but, if the Wines from the Charentes 
 vineyards have never been very fine, they 
 yield, when distilled, a brandy of exceptional 
 excellence and inimitable character. 
 
 The only Brandy entitled to the name 
 Cognac is that which has been distilled 
 from Wine produced by the Vineyards of 
 a limited district, the Region Delimitee ; 
 this comprises the greater part of the two 
 Departements of Charente and Charente 
 Inferieure, and a small area in the two 
 other neighbouring Departements of Deux 
 Sevres, in the north, and Dordogne, in 
 the south. 
 
 The vineyards of the Cognac-producing 
 district may be divided in two main classes, 
 the Champagnes and the Bois. 
 
 On the left bank of the river Charente, 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 23 
 
 and in the western part of the Departement 
 of Charente, are situated the vineyards of 
 the Grande Champagne and Petite Cham- 
 pagne, which produce the finest Brandies. 
 On the opposite side of the river Charente, 
 there is a small district known as Borderies, 
 where Brandy of excellent quality is also 
 made. 
 
 The soil of the Grande and Petite Cham- 
 pagnes is chiefly calcareous ; in the Border- 
 ies, the soil is of a similar nature, but the 
 chalk it consists of is of a harder kind than 
 in the Champagnes. From the Vineyards 
 of these three districts is produced a dis- 
 tinctive and constant type of brandy of 
 greater finesse and excellence than any 
 other, and one which no connoisseur can 
 fail to identify. 
 
 Outside these principal growths, however, 
 the quality, flavour and distinctive proper- 
 ties of the brandies made in the rest and 
 
24 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 greater part of the Region Delimitee, vary 
 to a very considerable extent, according to 
 the nature of the soil and the climatic 
 conditions of each particular locality. 
 There are a very large number of Bois of 
 various grades and types, which are known 
 as Fins Bois, Bons Bois, Bois Ordinaires 
 and Bois Eloignes. 
 
 The Vines grown on clayish soil in the 
 eastern part of the Region, and those from 
 more western vineyards, close to the At- 
 lantic, where the soil is very sandy and the 
 climate damp, produce two very different 
 types of Brandies, both, however, be- 
 longing to the same class of Bois Eloignes. 
 
 In other words, whilst Grande Champagne, 
 Petite Champagne and Borderies are geo- 
 graphical expressions corresponding to the 
 peculiar chalky soil formation of a dis- 
 tinctly limited area, the different Bois are 
 geographical appellations corresponding to 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 25 
 
 the quality of Brandies made in specified 
 parts of the Region Delimitee, whatever 
 differences may exist between the soil, the 
 climate, the aspect and the finished product 
 of each particular growth or " terroir." 
 
 Burgundy. 
 
 The ancient province of Burgundy is 
 represented chiefly by the Departements 
 of the C6te d'Or, the Saone et Loire and 
 the Yonne. Of these, the first produces 
 the finest Wines and owes its name to a 
 series of hills, about 36 miles in length, 
 which stretch from Dijon to Chalon-sur- 
 Saone in the direction of the N.N.E. to 
 S.S.W., the aspect of their vine-clad slopes 
 being principally towards the East, South 
 East and also South. These hills have a 
 height of from 200 to 300 feet and consist 
 chiefly of a very hard kind of calcareous 
 soil whilst the sub-soil is marl and rock. 
 
26 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 The Vineyards of the C&te d'Or begin 
 generally on the upper third of the hills, 
 never ascending to the brow, and then 
 stretch down the incline towards the plain, 
 and sometimes extend for a mile or two 
 in the plain itself. The best vineyards 
 are never in the plain nor on the upper 
 part of the slopes but on the middle or the 
 lower part of the inclines which are nowhere 
 very steep. From Dijon in the north, to 
 Santenay in the south, are to be found the 
 finest Burgundy vineyards, all of which are 
 in the Departement of the C6te d'Or. 
 Some five miles from Dijon is Gevrey, 
 where Chambertin is grown ; then, one 
 passes Musigny and the world-famous Clos- 
 Vougeot, where the soil is quite different 
 from that of other Vineyards, being a 
 mixture of lime on a sub-soil of clay. 
 Further on is Vosnes, where are to be 
 found the vineyards of Romance St. Vivant, 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 27 
 
 Romance Conti, La Tache and Richebourg, 
 all of which produce most excellent wines. 
 After Vosnes, one comes to Nuits, where 
 the ground faces south-west and is almost 
 flat, and then to Beaune, after passing 
 Aloxe, chiefly famous for the produce of 
 the Gorton vineyards. After Beaune, 
 where the old hospice may be said to 
 reign over the vine-land of Burgundy, one 
 comes to Volnay, Pommard, Meursault, 
 and then to the most famous white wine 
 vineyards of the C6te d'Or at Montrachet. 
 Chassagne, not far from Puligny, and 
 Santenay, on the border of the C&te d'Or, 
 also possess many good Vineyards. In 
 the adjoining Departement of Saone et 
 Loire, many fair Vineyards are also to be 
 seen and much good wine is made there, 
 but none which can compare in quality 
 with the best growths of the Cote d'Or. 
 The best red wines of Saone et Loire are 
 
28 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 those of Macon and the best white ones 
 those of Pouilly. 
 
 In quite another direction, the Departe- 
 ment of the Yonne, part of which used to 
 be within the limits of the old province of 
 Burgundy, produces a very large quantity 
 of red and white wines of which the white 
 wines of Chablis are the most celebrated. 
 
 South of the Departement of Saone et 
 Loire is that of the Rh&ne, where are the 
 Beaujolais hills which, although outside 
 the limits of Burgundy, produce an agree- 
 able wine, lighter but not unlike the cheaper 
 sorts of Burgundy wines. 
 
 Further south, and still on the left bank 
 of the Rhone, at Tain, are the vineyards 
 which produce the once famous wines of 
 Hermitage. 
 
 In the whole of the valley of the Rhone, 
 as well as in the whole of the south of 
 France, from the Alps to the Pyrenees, 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 29 
 
 vineyards are to be seen and wine is made, 
 but we must return northwards to other 
 vineyards which produce a wine more 
 popular than any other in our country : 
 Champagne. 
 
 Champagne. 
 
 Champagne is the name of an ancient 
 French province, where the Romans intro- 
 duced viticulture and where it has flourished 
 ever since. It is also the name of a spark- 
 ling white wine known by that name all 
 the World over; but, although the old 
 province of Champagne was divided in 1789 
 into four Departements, the Ardennes, 
 Aube, Marne and Haute Marne, all of 
 which boast that they possess extensive 
 vineyards and produce good wine, the 
 better class Champagne is grown within 
 a comparatively small area of the Marne 
 Departement only. 
 
 The grapes which produce the best 
 
30 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 Sparkling Champagne are grown on the 
 calcareous slopes of two distinct ranges of 
 hills, with greatly varying aspects, north, 
 east and south, but all possessing one 
 common and important feature, namely, 
 poor soil, practically all chalk, and unsuit- 
 able for any other culture. 
 
 The Champagne vineyards are usually 
 classed into two main topographical divi- 
 sions, those of the Riviere and those of 
 the Montague de Reims. The former are 
 facing the river Marne and may be further 
 divided as follows : (i) The vineyards of 
 the River proper, facing south, from 
 Cumieres to Avenay, and including besides 
 these, Hautvillers, Dizy, Mareuil-sur-Ay, 
 and Ay ; (2) The Epernay vineyards, which 
 also include the neighbouring growths of 
 Pierry and Chouilly ; (3) The Montagne 
 d'Avize, a gentle range of hills beginning 
 with Grauves and Cuis in the west and 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 31 
 
 sloping towards the east as far as Vertus. 
 From Cuis to Vertus are the finest Cham- 
 pagne white-grape vineyards, at Cramant, 
 Avize, Le Mesnil and Oger. Owing to 
 their north-easterly aspect, most of these 
 vineyards are liable to be severely affected 
 by late spring frosts, which are responsible 
 for the smaller average yield per acre in 
 that district than in any of the others of 
 the same region. 
 
 What is known as the Montagne de Reims, 
 is really the other side of the range of hills 
 which faces the river Marne and divides 
 Reims from Epernay. On the Reims side, 
 the slopes are not nearly so steep and permit 
 of a far greater acreage of hillside vineyards, 
 beginning at Villedommange. To the East 
 of this, and practically facing north, are the 
 famous vineyards of Rilly-la-Montagne, 
 Chigny, Ludes, Mailly, Verzenay, Sillery and 
 Verzy. Soon after Verzy, the Montagne 
 
32 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 comes to an end in the shape of an 
 irregular horse-shoe or spur, and round the 
 bend with a southern aspect, are the vine- 
 yards of Bouzy, Ambonnay and Trepail. 
 
 All the above are first growths and pro- 
 duce none but the best Champagne. There 
 are, of course, a great many other less 
 renowned vineyards within the Marne 
 Departement alone, and within the area 
 officially delimited by the French Govern- 
 ment, outside which no wine can be made 
 which is to be sold as Champagne. 
 
 Saumur. 
 
 The Departement of Maine et Loire, 
 where Saumur is situated, produces a large 
 quantity of wine, chiefly white and still, 
 which possesses great delicacy. In mediae- 
 val times, the still white wines of Anjou 
 were largely shipped from Nantes to Eng- 
 land, and were greatly appreciated. We 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 33 
 
 only know now, in this country, the 
 sparkling wines made on the low calcareous 
 hills in the neighbourhood of Saumur. 
 
 GERMANY. 
 
 Antiquarian finds of Roman wine cups 
 and wine-making implements in Germany, 
 as well as the writings of ancient Roman 
 historians, can leave no doubt whatsoever 
 as to the antiquity of viticulture in Ger- 
 many. It is not so generally known, how- 
 ever, that the trade in Rhine and Moselle 
 Wines was flourishing in England as far 
 back as the reigns of Edgar, Ethelred II., 
 and Edward the Confessor. 
 
 Viticulture, in Germany, and the imports 
 of German wines into this country have 
 never attained and never can attain a very 
 considerable development. Vines will only 
 grow within a comparatively small area of 
 the German Empire, but they still flourish 
 
34 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 where they have been growing for many 
 centuries past, lovingly tended by a hard- 
 working race of wine-growers, who are 
 assisted and encouraged by intelligent and 
 strictly enforced laws. On the other hand, 
 the trade in German wines in this country 
 still holds the very honourable place which 
 it has enjoyed for so many centuries. 
 
 The average imports of German wines in 
 the United Kingdom, are about 600,000 
 gallons per annum, whilst the average total 
 production of wine in Germany is only about 
 fifty-four million gallons per year. We, 
 therefore, consume over one per cent, of 
 the wines of Germany, whilst we only re- 
 ceive 0-28 per cent, of the wines of France, 
 and 0-02 of those of Italy.* 
 
 The following Table shows the number of 
 acres planted with Vines in 1909 and the 
 
 * We receive about 074 per cent, of the wine-pro- 
 duction of Spain and 3*45 per cent, of that of Portugal . 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 35 
 
 number of gallons of wine they yielded per 
 year, taking the average of the years 1907, 
 1908, and 1909. 
 
 Acres. Gallons. 
 
 Alsace Lor- 73,246 yielding an average of 15,980,002 
 raine 
 
 Bavaria 52,903 11,924,336 
 
 Prussia 43,472 7,284,766 
 
 Baden 41,276 8,594,978 
 
 Wurtemberg 39^43 ,> 4,939,284 
 
 Hesse 32,823 5,274,957 
 
 Other Dis- 491 93,629 
 
 tricts 
 
 Total - 283,354 54,091,952 
 
 or an average production per acre of : 
 
 640 gallons in Alsace Lorraine. 
 552 Bavaria. 
 255 Prussia. 
 543 Baden. 
 281 Wurtemberg. 
 297 Hesse. 
 477 other districts. 
 Practically the whole of the German 
 
36 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 vineyards are in southern and western 
 provinces of the Empire and the German 
 wines shipped to this country come chiefly 
 from three distinct districts, viz., (i) From 
 the valleys of the Moselle and its tribu- 
 taries ; (2) from the valley of the Rhine ; 
 (3) from the Bavarian Palatinate. 
 
 Moselle. 
 
 The wines generally known in this country 
 as Moselle Wines, are the produce of the 
 finest growths of the valley of the Moselle 
 from Treves to Coblenz, as well as of the 
 vineyards which grace the banks of the 
 Saar and of the Ruwer, two tributaries of 
 the Moselle. 
 
 The valley of the Upper Moselle, before 
 the River reaches Treves, produces a large 
 quantity of wine, but none of superior 
 quality, and none which can compare with 
 the wines of the Saar. This river runs 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 37 
 
 mostly in a northwesterly direction, and 
 joins the Moselle a few miles above Treves. 
 The finest Vineyards of the Saar are on the 
 right bank of the river from Geisberg in the 
 South, to Euchariusberg in the North. Not 
 far from Geisberg is Bockstein, and a little 
 further on the famous Scharzhofberg, the 
 finest growth of the Saar valley. Two other 
 celebrated Bergs in the district are Scharz- 
 berg and Agritiusberg, whilst excellent wines 
 are also made a little further north at 
 Wiltingen and Oberemmel. 
 
 Below the ancient city of Treves, rich in 
 Roman remains of great beauty, the Moselle 
 receives, on the right, another small river, 
 called the Ruwer. In the valley of the 
 Ruwer, some very delicate and fascin- 
 ating wines are also made, none better 
 known nor more excellent than those from 
 the ancient ecclesiastical vineyards at 
 Griinehaus. 
 
38 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 From there to Coblenz, on either bank of 
 the Moselle, are grown the finest wines of the 
 Moselle proper. To name but a few : there 
 are Piesport and the range of the Brauneberg 
 hills, on the left bank of the river ; a little 
 further down, and on the opposite bank, 
 we come to the celebrated Berncastel vine- 
 yards, where the vines grow on distinctly 
 slaty soil. 
 
 From Berncastel northwards, the vine- 
 yards of Graach, Josephshof, Wehlen, Zel- 
 tingen and Trarbach, on the right, and 
 those of Erden, Machern and Uerzig, on the 
 left, are among those which produce the 
 most delicate Moselle wines, light without 
 being thin, and possessing that very distinc- 
 tive bouquet which is their greatest charm. 
 The peculiar aroma of the Moselle wines is 
 due to the silicious soil on which they 
 are grown, which is more or less hard 
 according to each district, but which often 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 39 
 requires blasting before the vines can be 
 planted. 
 
 The lower valley of the Moselle offers one 
 of the most picturesque and delightful 
 sights it is possible to see. Nowhere in the 
 world can more perfectly ideal scenery be 
 found than in the Moselle valley on a fine 
 summer day. The winding river sparkling 
 in the sun ; the steep vine-clad hills crowned 
 with secular oaks ; the quaint little villages 
 nestling among vineyards by the riverside ; 
 the gable roofs of old houses closely grouped 
 round some sturdy grey church, the grim 
 tower of some ancient castle standing 
 above it all on some inaccessible rock ; there 
 is no vine-land which possesses greater 
 beauty or greater charm. 
 
 The Rhine. 
 
 The valley of the Rhine is not so pictur- 
 esque as that of the Moselle, but it has more 
 
40 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 grandeur. From Bonn to Coblenz and 
 from Coblenz to Bingen many vineyards 
 are to be seen on either bank of the river, 
 and much wine is made, most of which, how- 
 ever, is consumed in Germany. Abroad, 
 the most celebrated Rhine wines are those 
 of a limited district known as the Rhinegau 
 and those of Rhenish Hessen. 
 
 The Rheingau vineyards proper are on 
 the right bank of the Rhine and may be said 
 to begin opposite Bingen, with the exten- 
 sive vineyards of Rudesheim, and to end 
 with the hills of RauenthaL It is within 
 that comparatively small area that are to be 
 found the most famous Rheingau vineyards 
 which yield wines second to none in the 
 world in point of excellence and which are 
 eagerly bought, at the vintage, at prices far 
 higher than those given for new wines in 
 any other vine-growing country. 
 
 After leaving Rudesheim, one comes to 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 41 
 
 Geisenheim, Winkel, Mittelheim, and Oes- 
 trich, near the Rhine, whilst higher up the 
 hills are the Castles of Johannisberg and 
 Volrads surrounded by magnificent vine- 
 yards. A little further east are the no less 
 celebrated hills of Steinberg, whilst nearer 
 the river are the famous growths of Hatten- 
 heim, Marcobrunnen, Erbach and Eltville. 
 On the opposite bank of the Rhine, in 
 Hessen, there are a far greater number of 
 vineyards from Bingen to Mayence and 
 from Mayence to Worms, than in the 
 Rheingau, but there is only a comparatively 
 small percentage of the wines made in this 
 province which can claim to possess a very 
 high degree of excellence. Some vineyards 
 in Hessen, however, produce very fine wines, 
 with good body and bouquet, which are 
 eminently suited for exportation. The 
 best of these are the wines of Nierstein 
 and Oppenheim, some miles south of 
 
42 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 Mayence, and those of Liebfraumilch, 
 near Worms, on the southern frontier of 
 Hessen. 
 
 As regards the tributaries of the Rhine 
 other than the Moselle, the Ahr and the 
 Nahe, on the left, the Lahn, the Main and 
 the Neckar, on the right, are the most im- 
 portant ones. Extensive vineyards are 
 cultivated in the valleys of all these rivers, 
 and they produce both red and white wines 
 in large quantity and of very good quality. 
 Walporzheim, on the Ahr, and Hockheim, 
 on the Main, are the two most celebrated 
 growths of these tributaries of the Rhine, 
 the first being famous for its red wines, and 
 the second for its white wines. It is said 
 that Hock, the name so generally given in 
 England to all Rhine wines, and sometimes 
 to all German wines, is derived from Hock- 
 heim, the wines of which have been justly 
 popular among us for many centuries. 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 43 
 
 Palatinate. 
 
 The Palatinate Vineyards differ from all 
 others in Germany, being the only ones 
 which are not grown in sheltered valleys, 
 on the steep slopes of the hills which border 
 the Rhine and its tributaries. They are 
 situated on a plateau, protected from strong 
 winds by a mountain range, and are planted 
 in a soil chiefly of alluvial origin mostly 
 with southern aspects. The wines made in 
 that district are very distinct from those of 
 the Rheingau, being more luscious but not 
 quite so lasting. The first growths of the 
 PALATINATE are Deidesheim and Forst ; also 
 Durkheim, Wachenheim, and Ruppertsberg. 
 
 PORTUGAL. 
 
 Portugal, as well from its geographical 
 position, its benignant climate, and geologi- 
 cal conformation, as from other propitious 
 circumstances, is admirably adapted to 
 
44 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 viticulture. Vines are grown and wines 
 are made in many parts of Portugal, but 
 the only wines which will bear exporting 
 are those grown in the immediate vicinity of 
 Lisbon and in the valley of the Douro. Some 
 200 years ago the wines of Lisbon were more 
 prized in London than those of Oporto, 
 whilst we received up to the middle of the 
 last century, a fairly large quantity of white 
 Lisbon wines, Collares, Bucellas and Car- 
 cavellos from Portugal. Our trade in wines 
 with Portugal is, however, now confined 
 almost entirely to those shipped from 
 Oporto, and the vineyards which produce 
 Port are really the only ones which need 
 arrest our attention. 
 
 Port is the produce of certain vineyards 
 situated on the banks of the River Douro, 
 within a strictly limited area. The name 
 Port, therefore, has a well-defined geographi- 
 cal meaning, and does not only indicate the 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 45 
 
 style or quality of a wine, but also and 
 chiefly the country and district of origin of 
 that wine. There is some red wine made in 
 Spain, in Cape Colony, Australia and Cali- 
 fornia, which may have the same colour 
 and the same alcoholic strength as Port, 
 but no such wine should rightly be sold as 
 Port, even with the adjunct of the locality 
 it really comes from. 
 
 The hills of the Douro valley are very 
 high and often very steep, but they are 
 covered from base to summit with vines, 
 chiefly planted in tiers and terraces which 
 it has only been possible to make by cutting 
 or blasting the hard mountain rock. Vines 
 grown in the valleys produce less fine 
 wine than those planted higher up 
 the hills, though the latter, if too high 
 up, run the risk of being scorched, the 
 sun beating with merciless severity on the 
 rock. 
 
46 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 SPAIN. 
 
 Spain possesses a benignant climate and 
 a generally arid calcareous soil highly con- 
 genial to the culture of the vine. From 
 north to south and from east to west, sites, 
 soils and aspects of the happiest kind are to 
 be met with in every part of the country, 
 and luxuriant vineyards are to be seen on 
 the slopes of every hill or mountain ; yet 
 there is but a small percentage of the vinous 
 wealth of Spain ever sent abroad, and the 
 only Spanish wines of any commercial im- 
 portance in our country, are those of Jerez 
 and Malaga in the south and those of 
 Tarragona in the north. 
 
 The fame of the Jerez wines in England 
 is of great antiquity and was even greater 
 than that of any other wine during the 
 latter part of the sixteenth century. By 
 an order of March I4th, 1517, renewed in 
 1530, the Duke of Medina Sidonia granted 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 47 
 
 special privileges to all Englishmen who 
 went to Seville, Cadiz, or Jerez, to buy wines. 
 The wine called Sack which is so often 
 praised in Shakespeare's plays and the 
 works of all the old poets and dramatists, 
 was Spanish wine which chiefly came from 
 Port St. Mary. 
 
 The same vineyards which produced the 
 Sack of old now yield Sherry. Carbonate 
 of lime forms about two-thirds of the soil, 
 and the sun ripens the grapes without those 
 hazards from frosts or excessive rains to 
 which in more northern climes, the vintage 
 is constantly liable. 
 
 To the east of Jerez, on the other side of 
 the Sierras are the vineyards of Malaga, by 
 far the most picturesque in Spain. The 
 mountains round Malaga are clothed from 
 the valley depths to the summits with vines, 
 and the low-roofed houses of the peasants 
 peep out on the acclivities around them as 
 
48 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 if they had been placed by an artist's hand. 
 Many of the vineyards are located at a great 
 height from the level of the sea and planted 
 on narrow terraces. 
 
 Tarragona, in Catalonia, produces a very 
 large quantity of wines, chiefly red, which 
 are largely exported to this country where 
 they are of great value principally for 
 blending purposes. 
 
 ITALY. 
 
 Italy is, after France, the largest wine- 
 producing country of the world and it may 
 be said to be one large vineyard from 
 Lombardy and Tuscany in the north, down 
 to Sicily in the extreme south. 
 
 Some sparkling wines are made on the 
 low hills of the Asti and Montferrat region, 
 whilst dry red wines are made in very large 
 quantities in Tuscany. These are both 
 pleasant and wholesome and are exported 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 49 
 
 to this country in comparatively small 
 quantities which, however, tend to increase. 
 The most renowned white Italian wines are 
 those from the Vineyards of Capri, whilst 
 Marsala produces a large quantity of 
 luscious wines of great excellence. 
 
 SWITZERLAND, AUSTRIA HUNGARY, the 
 BALKAN STATES, GREECE and TURKEY, all 
 boast more or less extensive Vineyards 
 and produce a considerable quantity of 
 wines, some of which are of rare excellence, 
 such as the renowned imperial Tokay from 
 Hungary. In the Crimea, the Caucasus 
 and Bessarabia, there are no less than 
 650,700 acres of Vineyards which produce 
 an average of 77,336,000 gallons of wine 
 per year. 
 
 AFRICA also possesses vast vineyards, 
 chiefly in Algeria and Tunis in the north, 
 
 and in Cape Colony in the South. 
 
 D 
 
50 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 AMERICA possesses many vineyards. 
 The Vine grows and wine is made in many 
 parts of the United States, but nowhere 
 in such quantities nor to such perfection 
 as in California. Mexico, Peru, Bolivia and 
 Chili, all produce a certain quantity of wine 
 which is mostly consumed locally or in 
 neighbouring states. On the other side of 
 the Andes, in the Argentine Republic, the 
 vineyards of Mendoza are the most im- 
 portant. Uruguay and Brazil also have 
 extensive vineyards, but none of these South 
 American Republics have begun exporting 
 their wines to the Old World. 
 
 Not so, however, AUSTRALIA, in whose 
 vineyards on an average 4! million gallons 
 of wine are produced per year, a certain 
 proportion of which being annually ex- 
 ported to England. 
 
 CYPRUS, the Azores, the Canaries and 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 51 
 
 Madeira are the principal vineyard Islands 
 which produce excellent wines, some of 
 which are sent to this country every 
 year. 
 
 This rapid survey of the Vineyards of 
 the World teaches us that the vine is not 
 only one of the most ancient of the plants 
 we know, but that it is also one of the most 
 universal. It holds a unique place in the 
 marvellously ordained economy of our 
 wonderful world, being at the same time 
 the most fruitful of all plants or trees and 
 the only one which will grow and is meant 
 by nature to grow in the most barren 
 soils. This is so true, that it may safely 
 be asserted that the poorer the soil the 
 better will the wine be. A poor light 
 chalky soil such as at Cognac, Avize or 
 Jerez ; sandy, stony gravel, as in Medoc ; 
 decomposed granite as at Hermitage ; soft 
 or hard slate as on the banks of the Moselle ; 
 
52 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 hard schist or granite as in the Douro ; 
 soils which are not suitable for either corn, 
 beet nor even grass, there will the vine 
 grow and prosper. 
 
 On the other hand, and as a consequence 
 of the poor soil of most vineyards, it may 
 be asserted that no other culture requires 
 so much individual intelligence and in- 
 cessant care as does viticulture. So that 
 the vine does not only hold a prominent 
 position economically, rendering valuable 
 otherwise valueless lands, but also, and 
 chiefly socially, as a civilising agent. The 
 vine is par excellence the plant of peaceful 
 lands ; nomadic Arabs and roaming Gipsies 
 sow corn and root crops but move on as 
 soon as their harvest is gathered. Not 
 so the vine-grower, whose patient and 
 arduous labours can never be repaid until 
 some years after he has planted those vines 
 which attach him to the soil and which he 
 
THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 53 
 
 learns to tend with that loving and in- 
 telligent care the like of which is not to be 
 found in any other branch of agriculture. 
 
 Gallons. 
 
 - 1,078,362,032 
 
 AVERAGE OFFICIAL PRODUCTION OF 
 WINE PER ANNUM (1907-1908-1909). 
 
 Number of 
 Countries. 
 
 France - - : 
 
 Italy - 
 
 Spain - 
 
 Algeria - 
 
 Austria 
 
 Portugal 
 
 Hungary 
 
 Russia - 
 
 Germany 
 
 Chile 
 
 Roumania 
 
 Greece - 
 
 Bulgaria 
 
 United States of America 
 
 Turkey and Cyprus 
 
 Argentine Republic 
 
 Switze4an4 - 
 
 180,646,994 
 
 136,730,792 
 84,333,326 
 77,183,326 
 57,200,000 
 56,088,758 
 49,866,652 
 47,666,652 
 
 45,466,652 
 35,933,326 
 35,200,000 
 26,766,652 
 ^2,806,520 
 
54 THE VINEYARDS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 AVERAGE OFFICIAL PRODUCTION OF 
 WINE PER ANNUM (1907-1908-1909). cont. 
 
 Number of 
 
 Countries. Gallons. 
 
 Servia - 12,320,000 
 
 Brazil - 8,286,652 
 
 Tunis - 6,233,326 
 
 Australia - 4,490,200 
 
 Cape Colony - 4,228,400 
 Azores, Canaries, Madeira - 2,933,326 
 
 Luxemburg - 2,449,326 
 
 Peru - 2,192,652 
 
 Uruguay 2,170,652 
 
 Bolivia - - 638,000 
 
 Persia - 337.326 
 
 Mexico - 293,326 
 
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