s-i^mim [""',"{* J t -.. :' ":-:.l Ex Libris C. K. OGDEN THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ^i^tmtal attti ^e^sftrtptit^e 3tccotmt TOWN 8c CASTJLE WARWICK; AWD OF THE l^eigJBounnj ^pa XEAMIKGTONj TO WHICH ARE ADDBO, 5Aor# Notices of the Towns, Fillages, S^c, WIIHIX THE CIRCUIT OF TEN MILES. Inltnded prineipalfi/ for the Information of Slrangert, Miratnr, facilieque oculos fert omnia circuon ^neas, capiturque locis ; et singula Istus Ezquiritque auditque Tirum moQamenta priorum. YlRG, PRINTED BY AND FOR H. SHAP.PE, t4nd Soldli/ Messrs. RtriacToN^ St. PauV s-Church-Yard, London, and all other Bookseller*. 3/4 istmmt Though the principal object of the fol- ioiumg fForJi, as expressed in the Title Page, is, the hifor-matlon of Strangers, especlalli/ those resorting to the celebrated Spa of Leamington : yet the Writer had another object in view to which, he achiowledges, his hopes and his wishes were, with equal or greater ardour, directed. During his residence in IFarwich, or its im- mediate vicinity, he has often had occasion to ivitness the regret, which, he believes, has long been felt, that no work of the nature of the present has yet appeared, of easy access, and comprising, within a moderate com- pass, the Information, that might be collected concerning a town of such remote antiquity, and so much early and 2yresent celebrity. The hope, he ventured to entertain, of supplying that deficiency, and of offering to the In- habitants of Warwick an accejualle present, the Writer is proud to own, has contributed more than a;:y other A 2 ly consideration to miimate his exertions, in the collection of his materials and the choice of his topics. Having re^ sided amongst them, nearly the fourth part of a century, differing from many in certain political, and from more in certain religious opinions, which he conceives to he of no small importance he would hold it most unjust land most ungrateful not to acknowledge the nu- merous instances of real candour and kindness, which he has very generally received from them, during the whole course of that time. He has only to lament one striking exception, which occurred long ago ; and which if still r^ememhered with feelings of regret it is regret, he is sure, unaccompanied with the slightest resentment. Should the present attempt to lay before the Inhabitants of Warwick an Historical and Descriptive Account, tolerO' bly complete, and in the main correct, of their ancient and interesting Town, and of other neighbouring places, he accepted by them, as some returm for the great obli- gations, which their favorable opinio?! and their kind and friendly civilities have conferred upon him ; the dearest wish of the Writer will be accomplished, and his lahours will obtain their best and most valued retvard. Lkam, Sept, \, 1815. AX l^Mtorical anti De^ctiptibe $fifcount WARWICK, ^c. CHAP. I. Vl/4JRll'rCX/o(/e(i fey Gntheline enlarged by Guideriu a destroyed by the Ficts repaired by Caractucus fortified by the Romans destroyed u second time by the Picts rebuilt by Constuntine destroyed a third time by the Picts rebuilt by Gwdyr a fourth time destroyed by the Saxons reinilt by Wurremund disputed whether a Roman Station a fifth time destroyed by the Danes rebuilt, and the Castle founded by Etheljieda a sixth time destroyed by the Danes rebuilt fortified, and the Castle strengthened by order of William I. paved and improved by Guy de Beauehnmp iti ancient Churches and Edifices enumerated represented early in Parliament incorpoi ated destroyed by Fire rebuilt. IjrUTHELINE, or, as he is otherwise called, Kimber- LiNE, who was King of the Britons, about the Christian era, is said by Rous, the celebrated antiquan,'^, himself a native of the place, to have been the FOUNDER of WARWICK.* Its name originally, according to him, was Caer-guthleon, and, by contraction, Caer-leon; from Caej% which signifies a cifi/, and Guthlin, the name of its founder. He, also, asserts that the town was considerably enlarged and improved by Guiderius, another British King ; that it afterwards suifered greatly, during the wars of the Picts and Scots ; and that it continued in a ruinous condition, till it was rebuilt by Caractacus, the most distinguished of all the early Biitish Princes, who erected in it a manor-house for himself, and founded a churcli in the market-place, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. * His. Reg. Aiijjl, p. r,: &c. EARLY HISTORY Destroyed by the Puts Rebuilt by Gwdyr Made a hishop^s See. When this high-spirited hut unfortunate prince, after a brave and vigorous resistance of nine years, was completely subdued by the power of the Roman arms, in the reign of the Emperor Claudius ; his general. Pub. OsT. Scapula, A. D. 50. in order to secure his conquests, as we are informed by Tacitus, erected various fortifica- tions, on the rivers Avon and Severn ;* one of which, there is considerable reason to believe, was at Warivick, as will be more distinctly stated in the sequel of this chapter. After its restoration and enlargement under the fostering cares of Caractacus, and the final secession of the Romans, from the whole Island in the year 426, Rous further asserts that PFarwick was again laid in ruins, during one of those sudden and frequent wars which usually mark the character of barbarous ages ; and that it was again rebuilt by Constantine, another British king, who called it Caer-Umher. Upon his death, it was a third time exposed to the desolating calamities of war ; and, from that period, continued in a ruinous state, till it wa3 a third time, rebuilt by another British king, named GwDYR, who called it after himself, Caer Gwar. About that period of its history, if the fact be sufficiently verified, Warwick was made a Bishop's see, by Dubre- Tius, afterwards Bishop of St. David's, Avho chose for his episcopiil church, not St. Johns, but another, All Saints\ which stood on the site, where the Castle was afterwards built. This season of its prosperity was, however, short; and the town was exposed to new and dreadful devastations, during the time of the Saxon -... cjuclotqm- Citslris ADlonaiu ct Sabriiiam fiuvioi cohibere parat. Tac. Ann, lib. lii. 9. 30. % OF WARWICK. 3 ]Jestrot/ed by the Saxons Rebuilt hy Wurremund and caWd Warreuyk. invasions. But when that warlike people had completely established themselves in the country, and had divided it into provinces, the Kingdom of Mercia was allotted to Warremund ; and by him the town was once more rebuilt, and was called, after his name, fVarreim/k. In the time of the Anglo-Saxons, however, this town was certainly called werhica, as appears from the inscrip- tion on an existing and genuine Saxon penny,* of Harthacnut, minted at this place. It is also written in the Saxon Chronicle werinca, and w^ringwic^ and the county is called wiERiNwiCKSHiRE. But to this account of the foundation and the subsequent events, in the early history of IVarivich, as related by Rous, and recited with approbation by Dug- dale, some considerable objections have been opposed, by several antiquarians, and particularly by Dr. Thomas,|| the learned Editor of an enlarged edition of the Antiquities of IVarwichshire, published in 1730. In his opinion, tha town was not of British but of Saxon origin ; and that it was ever a Roman station is a supposition utterly rejected by him. The facts, on which he principally relies, are, that no Roman antiquities have ever been discovered here;, and that, there was a military station, beyond all doubt, at Chesterton, only six miles distant whence it seems improbable that another should have been established, so near as IVarwich. Upon the whole, however, not only * This curious coin, hitherto unpublished, and as to the nanae of this townj unique^ is in the cabinet sf VVilliam Stauntcn, Esq. of Longbridge, near Warwick. From w<crtng, a mound or bulwark, and loyh, or wick, a town, the curved bank of a river, or a castle. Sax.Chron.p. lOi. II Bee Thomas' Edit, of DuGDALE, vel. i. p. 371. Ward's Neif Surtrey, p. 4?8 EARLY HISTORY Disputed whether a Itrmint Station Destroyed by the Danes. h't - ' I i l l 1 1 I I i ' I ' i -' DuGDALE, but most of the great antirjnarians, as Camden, Baxter, Stukeley, Salmon, and Bartlett,* admit a credible tlie account of Rous ; and assert not only that IVarwick was originally a British town but that it was afterwards a Roman Station. This account, they think, is greatly confirmed by one of its ancient names, Caer- Givar, derived, they say, from a British Avord, signifying prcesidium, a garrison : and is still further confirmed by the situation of the place which is on a fine rocky elevation y such as was usually chosen by the Romans on the banks of the Avon, where, Tacitus affirms several fortifications were actually erected in the very venter, too, of the island, like the Prcesidium in Corsica and closely adjoining to the Fosse IVay leading from Ciren- cester, and uniting with the great Roman Road, called PVatling Street. A situation so happily adapted to all the purposes of a military station, it may well be suj>- posed, could scarcely be overlooked ;|| and some have even ventured to give it, as their opinion, that IVarwick is the Prcesidium Romanoi^m, mentioned in the Notitia Imperii \\ where, it is said, a cohort of Dalmatian horse ^ras placed, under the immediate command of the Dux Britanniarum. But this last opinion, though supported by most of the great antiquarians, just enumerated, can Cami>n Gough's Ed. v. ii. p. 444. Baxter's British Aiitiquitie*. Siuke- Cby's Iiin. Curios. II. iO. S.tLsiuM't burv. of the Rom. Statious, p. 43'J. Bartlett' Hist, aud Ant. of Manceler, p. 6. II Dr. Stukeley thought he ditcovered (races of an encampment, on the east -fiide uf the river, in a field opposite to the Castle. It. p. 30. Not. Imp. Seclio. Lxiii. " Sub dispositione riri speciabilis duels Brilanniarum, Prxfectus equitutu Dalruataruiu, Praesidio." I'rsesidiuin is not mentioned in ilie llincravij of Antoninus; but Mr. Ward and the learned IIoRSELEr suppose the Pra;sidium ui 4he A'ofitia to be the Praetorium of the Uer^ and they fix the place of it, nut at Warviitk, but at Iiiouhtou, ill Liacelntiiirc, 2>tctT Bottc;, p 4>U. Brtt. Ant. 48!. OF WARWICK. Repaired, und the Castle founded by El/iei/ied". only be received, and indeed, is only given, as purely coDJectural.* After the establishment of the Saxons in Britahi, the town of Pf^arwick continued peaceful and prosperous, till at length it was destroyed by the Danes. It speedily rose, however, to more than its fonner consequence, under the auspices of Ethelfleda, the accomplished daughter of the great King Alfred, and the inheritor,|| in a high degree, of her father s genius and enterj)rizing spirit. By this Princess, who was manied to Etheldred, Earl of Mercia, the town was completely repaired and fonsiderably enlarged and improved : and by her, also, the foundation of the Castle was laid in 915; which soon became the residence of the reputed Earls of those tiure?, and proved of important consequence in securing the peace, not only of the tovAH itself, but of tlie whole surrounding country. Thus re-edified, enlarged, and embellished, by the cares of that active and spirited Princess, and defendeti by its newly-erected fortifications, IVarwick enjoyed long and uninterrupted repose : till it was doomed once more to sustain dreadful injiu'ies, from the incursions of the Danes, under Canute, in the year 101 6, This was * It is curious lo observe how very far ibe strength of cohftdence i Sf,ineiimi'S suiu fi i lo out-run the slrengih of eriJfce. Ireland, in his Pict. Views on the VVaricisiiir Avon, p. 133, thus expresses himself, " Warwick, it is well known, was caUcd b^ t;, Hoaiai.s, Pixsidlutn," II See Henry's Hist, of Eng. v. iii. p. 93. See also Spf.lman's Life of Alfroi. f They were either dtputies or lieutenanti to tlie Earls pf Jlcrris, or else officers inituediatetj appointed by tb King. Govgh'^ Cara. v. ij. p. -144. Dgdile, Oajg. E<ijt. p. S93. 6 EARLY HISTORY Fortified, unci the Custle stieu^thened by order of William I. the last instance of its suffering from hostile attack: and, in tracing the early history of JVarwick, it will be thought not a little remarkable that, fi-om its foundation to the period of the Norman conquest, the town was either greatly injured, or totally destroyed, no less than six successive times ; nor can a more decisive proof be de- manded of its ancient consequence, than that it should have been so often assailed and destroyed, and as often repaired or rebuilt. From all the injuries it suffered, in the last attack of the Danes, the town quickly recovered : and, at the era of the Conquest, it is not only mentioned,* in Domesday Booh, as a borough " burgits'^ containing 26 1 houses ; but was also evidently regarded as a place of considerable strength and importauce. At that period, the name of its Earl or Vicecounty was TuRCHiLL, a nobleman of great power and vast possessions|| in this and the neighbouring counties. As the conqueror, in order to secure his newly-acquired autho- rity had determined to repair the fortified places, and to erect others in various parts of his dominions ; Tur chill was directed by him to fortify the town and the castle of IVarwich. In pursuance of this order, the town was sunounded with strong walls and a ditch : and the castle was strengthened and enlarged which, till that time, con- sisted of little more than the keep or dungeon. On this occasion, four houses, belonging to the Priors of Coventry, were demolished. * For an exirnct from Domesday Book of all that lelatei to Warwick, tee Appendix, No. 1. H A long catalogoe of his numerous Estates, amounting to no less than 48, maj be i^en ia DucoAts, Orig. Edit. p. 332 and Thomas'* Edit. p. :}76-7. OF WARWICK. Anciejit Churches and other Edifices. These original fortifications were afterwards re- paired, and the pavement of the town was begun in the reign of Edw. I. by Guy de Beauchamp, though not finished till long after; who, in order to defiay the expense, obtained from that prince and from his suc- cessors, patents for receiving a certain toll ujjon all commodities, brought for sale at the public markets. Some remains of these fortifications were visible in the time of Leland, who began his Itinerary in the reign of Henry VII. 1538. "The towne of Warwick" says he, " has beene right strongly ditched and walled, having the compasse of a good mile within its walls. The dike is most manifestly perceived from the castle to the West gate ; and there is the great crest of earth that the walles stood on. Part of the walles neere the gates are yet scene. The East and West gates still remaine. The north gate is downe. The strength of the bridge, by the castle, stood for the South gate."* The religious edifices of Warwick, those, at least, established by public authority, were in former times much more numerous, than in the present. But this difference is nearly compensated by the introduction of other places of worship, which, tho' not established or supported, are, however, wisely and liberally protected by the state. Besides the two churches of *S'^. Mary and St. Nicholas, which now remain ; there were for- merly one dedicated to All Saints, within the precincta of the castle ; another to St. John the Baptist, in the market place ; a third to St. James, over the West gate ; a fourth to Saint Peter, over the East gate ; a fifth to St. Sepulchre, where the Priory now stands ; * Iiiu. vol. iv. p. 61. EARLY HISTORY Religinux Institutions (/issulreil Represented in ParUnment. a sixth to St. Helen^ near the Bridge-end; and two others, to St. Michael and St. Lawrence, the former at the lower end of the Saltisford, and the latter at that of the West Street. There were, also, besides the Priory, a Nunnery, a House of Templars, a Hospital for the reception of strangers, called St Johns, all situated near St. Nicholas' Church : a hospital for Lepers, near St. Michael's ; a House of Preaching Friars, commonly called the Black Friars, near the West-street, and two Ciuilds,- or Lay Fraternities, at the upper end of the same street. Of the original foundation, and subsequent history of these various ancient edifices, little is known ; but it api^ears thiit, in the reign of Edw. HL the churches of St, John, St. Michael, St. Lawrence, St. Peter, and St. James were falling fast into decay ; and that some of them were, besides, without the convenience of ground for sepulture. It was found, also, that the church of St. Mary, together with that of St. Nicholas, was of a size sufficient to accommodate all that usually resoi-ted to the public services of religion. To these two chuiclics only, by an ecclesiastical decree, bearing date 13G7, all the inhabitants were, therefore, required to repair, for the purposes of public devotion. The other churches were then abandoned to their fate ; and, in the progress of time, by decay and dilapidation, most of them disap- peared, leaving not a trace behind. The other religious or chantable institutions continued till the time of the Reformation, when they were all dissolved. Kt wb.it period of time Warwick began to send Memhers to Variiamenf, cannot be ascertained. Frjyin the Rolls of riulianieiit, however, it a]>pcai> that it claim, of Phi royal cl with pow for the reg Visitation oj that the town 3;th of Hen. \ the reign of Kin which (lid little mo This was followed, by another and a la 1694, under the auth act ; and of which, t in the Appendix.^ * DcGKALh's WarwicLshire, ihe postcsMoa of \Vm. Staunton, of j in were , from it, as a structure le cliapter- In the short cCSS than 250 6839. F. 34i. in ihe .Ii I'.nppeiicd the 5lli Instant, iicd all the lUf^h ^rert, Chnrch unci oila-r Iiui7c/ii^s; llit* howses leiisl amounts to ] 2(),()()()!b. ; this liciilur ijf the iin)iiey already sert (Kilo. I.onl liRoOKK, 4011). Lorrl j'ml g'jinii I" iiiit;e a col.'ecliiu\ lor bept. 10, 1694." OF WARWICK. U liebuiU by Act of Parliament. families were entirely reduced to ashes : and the damage was estimated at above ^120,000, Subscriptions for the relief of the wretched inhabitants were immediately set on foot at Coventry, Birmingham, Worcester, and other places ; and further relief was speedily obtained, by means of briefs,* from all parts of the kingdom. The town was afterwards rebuilt, by Act of Parliament, in a more commodious and handsome form, partly of free- stone, from the rock, on which it stands. This cala- mity, therefore, as in many other similar instances, however dreadful at the time, has greatly contributed, in the result, to the regularity, the beauty, and the conveniency of the town ; and thus to the health, the accommodation, and the comfort, oi all its succeeding inhabitants. One of tliese briefs, which bears date Dec. 9, 1694 HiH remains, in the poi- fCisioa of VViLLiAJj SxAUNiOK, Esq. of Longbridg^e. ^^^ B2 12 REMARKABLE Martial Tmirnamenis at Wurzcick forbidden. CHAP. II. iUcmarftalile <9ttutttnctii* JNJ'ENDED Martial Tournaments at Wartcick, in the Reign of Henrp III. forbidden a Round Table held here in the Reign of Hdward 1. Decapitation of Gavtston on Blacklow Hill Celebration of the Order of St. Michael at St. Mary's Death of the Marquis of Northampton at the Priory Visit of Queen Elizabeth of James I. of William III. The Castle beseiged during the Civil Wars Battle near Southam the Castle relieved Battle of Edge Hill. X O the short abstract, given in the preceding chapter, of the early history of JVarwiclt, we subjoin the following notice of some remarkable events, connected with it. In the reign of Henry III. a numerous meeting of the Barons and others was intended to be held at Pf^arwichj, for the purpose of exercising themselves in martial tournaments, and other feats of arms. But this meeting, from an apprehension of danger to the public peace, was prohibited, by letters patent addressed to the Priors of Kenilivorth, and to those of St. Sepulchres in Pf^arivick. A similar meeting was again proposed, and again prohibited, in the 57th year of the same reign. In the reign of Edward I. who was one of the most accomplished knights of his time, the spirit of chivalry revived, and those assemblies, called Round Tables, were not unfrequently convened.* One of these, || Hew IT V. 38:. f Hist. Reg. p. 203. OCCURRENCES. i3 "- I I I'll I""' I'll- I II . . 11 ! . i j. . li . Lu a Round Tables Gaveston beheaded at Blacklo/t-tiill. according to Rous, was held with great splendour at IVarwich, in the year 1281 ; when crowds of natives and foreigners flocked together, from all parts, to be present on the great occasion. That either this or ano- ther similar meeting was held here seems also probable, from the curious Compoti /?o//|| of the Collegiate Church, made in the 5th Edward IV. in which 20 shillings is accounted for " de jirma cujusdam pastur'' voc' le Rownde Table.'' It must be admitted, however, that a piece of ground might be called by the name. of Round Table, without absolutely proving that an assembly of the kind in question was ever convened in that place. In the year 1312, Piers de Gaveston, the vaia and haughty fai-ourite of Edw. II. fell a victim to the em'y and hatred, he had so vehemently and even justly ex- cited. Closely besieged by the Barons, in the Castle of Scarborough, whither he had fled for refuge, he was oblig- ed to capitulate, and surrendered himself into the hands of the Earl of Pembrohe, on the faith of certain con- ditions which were afterwards, totally disregarded. From Scarborough, the unfortunate Gaveston was conveyed to Deddhigton Castle, near Banbvry ; where, being pur- posely left in the custody of a feeble and faithless guard, he soon found himself assailed by Guy de Beauchamp, Earl of fJ^arwlck, one of his most furious and implacable enemies. TI)at nobleman, indeed, besides other causes of complaint in common with the rest of the Barons, had received a particular and personal afljont, from the insolent favourite, who usually designated him, from his tj This ancient dociimrnt is now in flic possfjsion of William IlAMPEn, Esq. of Eirmingham, II is beautifulljr wtrt<i> on parclimeut,!* jardi long and 12 inches wide. 14 RExMARKABLE Order of St. MirhueL celebrated ut St. Mary's. swarthy comple?cion, by the name of the '* black dog of Ardent On the 17th of June, the Castle of Dedd'wgton was suddenly attacked: little or no resistance was at- tempted ; the miserable captive was seized and carried to IVarivick Castle ; whither the Earls of Lancaster, Here- Jord, and Arundel, the heads of the party leagued against him, instantly repaired- After some consultations, it was agreed to put their prisoner to death, as a public enemy, without the slightest regard to the faith of express agree- ment, or to the forms established by law. Accordingly on the first of July, the wretched Gaveston was ccmducted to Blacklow Hill, about a mile from fVarwick-, and there, in the presence of his cruel and relentless foes, who beheld the horrid spectacle with savage delight, his head was severed from his body.* Cut in the rock, near the summit of the hill, are still to be seen his name, and the year of his death : but the inscription is evidently of much later date than tlie event it records. In the year 1566, the Order of St. Michael, instituted in France, was, by special favour of Charles XI. conferred on two English noblemen, who had been selected for this high honour, by Queen Elizabeth herself; and of these, as might have been expected, one was her great favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. In the following year, this nobleman, resolved to gratify his piety or vanity by the celebration of that Order in the Collegiate Church of fVarwick. On this occasion, the Bailiff and Burgesses were invited to attend the Earl : who, from the Priory, where at that time he lodged. Ducdale's Br- ol. ii. p. 44. Thomas's Dugdale'b Warw. p. 27S. IIuME vol. n. p. 136. Henhy, vol, vii. p. 1S4, &c. OCCURRENCES. 14 Death af W. Fnrr Visit of Queen Elizabeth. went in grand procession, accompanied by a numerous train of noblemen, and a vast concourse of people, to the Church ; and here, with solemn pomp and stately shew, the intended ceremony was performed. A circumstantial account of this ceremony, of which some further notice will be taken hereafter,* is preserved in a curious manu- script, called The Black Booh, written by an eye witness, which is still in the possession of the Corporation. Shortly after the conclusion of this splendid ceremony, at which he had assisted, died suddenly, at the Priory, William Parr, Marquis of Northampton, the brother of Catherine Parr, the last of the numerous Queens of Henry VIIL He was buried in the chancel of 0^arivick Church ; and the account of his funeral forms the second article in The Black Book. A third and a more interesting article is air account of the visit of Quee^ Elizabeth " in her highnesse's person," to the town, Avhich took place on Monday, Aug. 12, I572, Her Majesty had dined that day, at the house of Edward Fisher, at Long Itchingtoji; whence, on account of the bad state of the direct road,, through Teachbroke and My ton, &he was obliged to travel round by Chester^ton and Oakley ; and, at a place, called Fow^d Myl Hill, she was met, in due form, by the BaililT and principal Burgesses, attended by Edward AcLiONBYy the Recorder, Mr. Griffyn, Master of Leicester Hospit a L and others. About three o'clock, her Majesty arrived at the spot, attended by Lady Warwick in the same coach -. and, in other carriages, by all her great oiiicers of state,. Sse the Account cf U-? Pfiorv, l6 IlEMAKKABLE Jimorder' s sprtci't to Qutea Elizabeth. Lords Burleigh, Howard, and others, and by a long train of Lords and Ladies. The royal carriage then drew up a^ near as possible to the place, where the Bailiff and hig company were all reverently kneeling, in their due order ; the Bailiff first, behind him INIr. Griffyn, next the Re- corder, and then the twelve principal Burgesses. After a respectful pause, the Recorder began his oration, which, though be j)romised to be " short of speche," he was hunsdf obliged at last to confess a " lardge one.** It opened with a learned allusion to the ancient Grecian and Uomau panegyricce ; on which, however, he unintention- ally passes the severest censure, by observing that they were all alike commeiidatory , wliether addressed to good or bad princes. He then speaks of the lofty stile proper for an address to a royal personage ; and modestly excuses his own inability for the task assigned him. " The very lookes," he says, of such exalted persons as Alexander THE Great, Caius Marius, Octavius C/esar, " the wise King Henry VII." " the valiant King Henry VIIL" and finally, of her excellent Majesty, then present, must *' appal the stout corages of their beholders." He hopes, therefore, to be excused, if he should be put *' botlie out of countenance and out of remembrance." He then spealvs of the " commendacion, " that might be justly confen*ed on her highness herself, on the " rare vcrtucs of her mynde," on the " wealth of her domy- nyons, " on the prosperous achievement of her noble affaires," not forgetting that flattery, which, he knew, would most of all please, oil " the divyne giftes of her roial })erson." But these fi-uitful topics he declines, for fear of savim? more than her " modest eares could abide." He then shortly details the history of " this towiie of M'arwih, " from early to later times, closing with au OCCURRENCES. 17 Answer of t/ie Queen to the Recordtr. acknowledgment of its great obligations to her gi-and- father, her father, her sister, and most of all, to herself. He next bestows high and just praises upon Ambrose, the good Earl of fVarivick ; and praises, also, equally high, though not surely equally just, upon his detestable brother of Leicester ; whose numerous and horrible crimes seem to have been totally lost to the view of that age, amidst the blaze of brightness, which his own splen- did charities, and the dazzling beams of royal favor threw around him. He then expresses his rejoicing, and that of the whole people of Warwick, " for that it has pleas- ed her to blesse them with her comfortable presence;** and concludes with offering a small present to her Ma- jesty, which he humbly hopes, she Avould condescend to receive, as Alexander was pleased '^ to accept a hand- full of Avater from a poore soldier of his," finally, wishing her " a long and a ])rosperous reign, even to Nestor'ss years, if it so please God I " . After this long oration, Robart Phillippes, ris- ing from his knees, approached the royal carriage : when, again bending in the same humble posture, he tendered to the Queen a purse, "very fairre wrought" containing twenty pounds, "all in souereignes"; which, alter some affected scruples, was condescendingly accepted, and the Bailiff had the honor of kissing her Majesty's hand. Mr. Aglionby had also the same honor ; to whom the Queen thus familiarly expressed herself: " Come hither, little Recorder; it was told me that youe wold be afraid to look upon me, or to speake boldly ; but you were not so f raid of me, as I was of youe, and I now thank you for putting me in niynde of my duety". Her Majesty next offered her grateful acknowledgments to the Burgesses, and c | REMARKABLE Royal Procession to Wanrick Cuslle. all the company present, and then expressed her wish to proceed. But further honors still awaited her ; Mr. Grif- FYN, the preacher, humbly advancing, craved permission, on his bended knees, to offer to her majesty a copy of Latin verses * which he had composed expressly for the occasion ; and which were, also, graciously received, though the Queen declined reading them at that time ; if, indeed, she ever did at all, as, from the story, appears doubtful, The command was now given, and the whole procession moved forAvards, in the following order. First the Bailiff's attendants led the way, 32 in number, dressed " in coates of puke " i. e. grey, " laid on with lace ;" then, the 1 2 principal burgesses, " in gowns of puke, lyned with satten and damask, upon foote clothes;" then, two Bishops followed ; next the Lords of the Coun- cil ; and immediately before the Queen's coach, were the Bailiff] arrayed in scarlet, on the right, and Lord Conijh iQHj as Sheriff oi the county, on the left. With this state, was her Majesty conducted to the Castle, where she continued the remaining pait of Monday, and the whole of Tuesday. On Wednesday, she went, with- out her train of attendants, taking the road through the Priory grounds and the IVoodloes, to Kenilworth Castle, where she Mas sumptuously entertained by the Earl oj Leicester, till Saturday. || On the evening of that day, she returned to JVariciih Castle : and, on the following Sunday, divncing was exhibited for her amusement, in the jiftemoon ; and, in the evening, fire works. These last, which consisted principally of a sort of an attack upon two Thrv may be ctii in I'>ih. Top. Brit. N<>. xrii. P Tlii ivas ilircc jrars hrf^re lier far f:ira?d rnteiuiiiiuenl ilicrc. OCCURRENCES. i^ Visit of Jama 1. and William 111. to Warwick. temporary wooden forts, were attended with some serious accidents. A ball of fire fell on a cottage near the Bridge End, which was instantly reduced to ashes ; and its in- habitants, a poor old man and woman, were with difficulty saved. Two or three cottages adjoining were also des- troyed; and, by a similar accident, four houses in the town were burnt down. The next day, the Queen very graciously sent for the two poor aged sufferers into her presence ; and made them all the reparation which kind words, and a present amounting to about 25^. could do. Whether the other suffereis, in consequence of these royal sports, received any recompence for the injuries they had sustained, does not appear. The ensuing week the Queen spent at Kenilworth, in the company of her favorite ; and on Saturday, returned by Charlecott, to London.* On the 4th of September, 1617* it appears that King James I. honored this town with his presence, and Sir FuLK Greville, then Chancellor of the Exchequer, with his company; by whom a magnificent entertainment was given in the hall of Lord Leicester s Hospital. An inscription, recording the event, is still to be seen in that hall. But of this royal visit no further account has been discovered. In connection with this, though somewhat out of chronological order, we shall mention the honor of another royal visit which fVarivick received from Will. III. in the month of November, 1695. It was then the eve of a general election, and by the advice of his ministers, in order to recommend himself to popular favor, of which that * See " Q. Eli.:. Pfcgrcsses,"' bj Nichols. C 2 3Q REMARKABLE WuTutck Castle garrisoned durinf; the Civii War. great and glorious monarch never enjoyed a share eqaal to his extraordinary merits, he was induced to set out on a tour, through the country ; and to visit the seats of some f the principal nobility. After having witnessed the di- versions of Newtnarket, he honored with his company the Earls of Sunderland, Northampton and Montague ; and afterwards went to Welbech, the seat of the Duke of Newcastle. Thence he proceeded to fVartvick ; and took up his residence at the Castle, which was at that time the seat of Fulk Lord Brooke, posthumous son of the accomplished and patriotic Robert Lord Brooke, who was killed at the siege of Lichjield. From Warwick, the king proceeded to Eye Fort, the seat of the Duke of ShrewS' \)ury ; and, after having visited the university of Oxford, returned to London.* During the unhappy contest between Charles I. and his Parliament, fi^arwlck Castle was regarded as a for- tress of great importance, both from its own strength, and from the situation of it, in the centre of the kingdom. Its noble proprietor, Robert Greville, Lord Brooke, was one of the most active and zealous supporters, on the side of the Parliament and the people : and, by his powerful influence, he carried with him, to the same side, almost the whole of the county. In the months of June and July, l642, under the authority of a parliamentary commission, he assembled the militia of IVarwickshire and Staffordshire', and, as his presence was necessary in London, for the purpose of procuring arms and ammunition, he left Sir Edward Peto, of Chesterton, governor of the Castle, in his absence. Smoiiett, vol, i. p. oG6. OCCURRENCES. 21 I ' I- 1 1 I Slcirmiih near Southam Warwick Castle besieged. Returning from the metropolis with a train of artillery, he was met, at Edgehill, by the Earl of Northampton ^ at the head of a considerable force. Both parties prepared for action ; but, to prevent the effusion of blood, it was at length agreed that Lord Brooke should retire to Ban- hury with his artillery, and that neither party should attempt to remove it thence, without the previous notice of three days. On the faith of this agreement, Lord Brooke went again to London, when instantly the Castle of Banbury was surprized by the Earl of JVorthampton, and the artillery carried off. The Earl then advanced to IVarwick ; and immediately summoned the governor of the Castle to surrender. On his refusal, the siege began* Aug. 7j and w^as continued till Aug. 23, when Lord Brooke marched once more from London, at the head of a powerful body : and, between SoidJiam and Ich'mgton, within 5 miles of IVarwich, found himself once more op- posed by the Earl of Northampton. A skirmish ensued, which terminated to the advantage of Lord Brooke. Tlie Earl of Northampton retired towards the north ; the siege of the Castle was raised ; and Loi^d Brooke entered it, to the great joy of the garrison, who, with slender provision, had defended the place for a whole fortnight. The hooks, upon which wool sacks were suspended, as a means of protecting the walls, during this siege, are still lo be seen over the principal gateway of the Castle. About the end of September, in the same year, when Lord Brooke was still at the Castle, the Eard of * A curious account of this brave defence of Warwick Ca'stle bj Sir Edwaud Ptro, is contained in ii srimil tract piiiitcd in ld4'2, entitled True and new Nees from Whi- ick Castle, with n True Ucliition oi Sir Kdwad Pi;to's liMUging out UU wi.uiiug siiu-t and the Bible in hi'. C'^l-uri at Warvvitk Ciisi!---" 22 REMARKABLE Battk of Edge Hill. Essex arrived, at the head of the parliamentary troops ; and the two commanders immediately advanced, with their united forces, into Worcestershire y in quest of the royal army ; which, however, had turned aside towards Shrews^ hury, and was then making its way from that town into fVaricicksliire. The Earl of Essex prepared to follow it ; whilst Lord Brooke hastened back to Warwick^ to forward some supplies that were necessary. He arrived, accord- ingly, at the Castle, Oct. 22 ; and, on the following day, sent from its magazines several cart-loads of arms and ammunition to the army ; which, in the mean time, had followed the royal forces as far as Kineton, two miles from Edgehills.*^ On that day, Sunday, Oct. 23, l642, was fought, in a vale at the foot of those hills, the first pitched batfle between the forces of the King and those of the Parlia- ment. Whilst resting with his army at Egeat, a village on the borders of Northamptonshire^ in the middle of the preceding night, intelligence from Prince Rupert had been received by the khig, that the enemy's forces were within a few miles ; and it was in consequence immediately re- solved to give them battle the next day. But so little prepared was either party for the encounter, that it was not till 3 o'clock in the afternoon that the battle began. After an equal display of courage, attended with various .success on both sides, the night separated the combatants. The following day neither party discovered any inclination to renew the contest ; and, towards the evening, both retired from the field. * Clakindon* Hist, of the Rebellion, ol. ii. p. 44. ^ toxoNsoN's Account ol the Grerille Familj, p. 9j, OCCURRENCES. 23 Retreat vf the I'urlint/ieyit Arjin/ lo Wuraick. In the early part of this battle. Lord Brooke was not present. Setting out from Warwick, on the very day on which it was fought, the first intelligence he received of it, was on the road, from the crowds, who had been put lo flight by the charge of the king's horse. Upon many he prevailed to return ; and, proceeding with all possible expedition, he arrived time enough to render considera- ble assistance to his party. In the ev^ening of the fol- lowing day, Lords Essex and Brooke marched with their whole army towards fVarwick ; where they remained some time, to refresh themselves, and to prepare for new encounters. These appear to be the principal events, in which the history of the Civil War connects itself, with that of the Town and Castle of Warirlck, 24 HISTORY OF THE Rohnnd Cmy Reynburu, <;Jf. CHAP. III. ^i^totp of ti)e arIiE^ of Wat\i^xck. Saxon Earls Rohand GuyReynburn Wogfat Uffa Wolgeat Wigod Altcine Turchill De Newburgs Henry Roger William Wale- ran Henry Thomas John de Plessites William Manduil Beau- champs William Guy Thomas Thomas Richard Henry Ne- ville Richard Plantagenets George Edward Dudleys John, Ambrose Rich Robert Robert Robert Charles Robert Ed~ ward Edward Henry Gkevilles Fulk Robert Francis Robert Fulk Fulk William Francis George. In connection with the history of Warwick Castle, which forms of course a leading object in the present work, it will be proper to give some brief notices of its noble pos- sessors : and this is what we shall now attempt, beginning with the earliest, and proceeding to the latest times. I. ^Qx\^ of tlje j&ajtron ^att. Of the reputed Earls of the Saxon race, little is related, worthy of credit. The first whose name is re- corded is Rohand, a successfiil warrior, in the days of Alfred. His only daughter was Felicia, married, as the story tells, to the famous Guy, who, in her right, became Earl of JVarwich. This renowned champion is said to have been the son of SiwARD, Baron of IValUngford, Yet the Welch EARLS OF WARWICK. 2i. (ji/i/s Combat with t/ie Danish Chtn/ijuou, claim the lionor of numbering him, amongst their own heroes of British extraction. According to vulgar belief, he was of gigantic height, exceeding nine feet. Amongst other instances of his prowess, it is related that he slew a Saracen giant, in single combat; and killed, with his own arm, a Avild boar, a dun cow of enormous size, and even a green dragon.* Some very old histories of GuY speak of the dragon, but omit the circumstance of colour. The Saracen Giant, above mentioned, was Col- brand, chosen by the Danish invaders as their champion to decide the contest between them and the English, ac- cording to the proposal made to Athelstan, the Saxon monarch, and accepted by him. The celebrated Guy, returning from a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, at that instant, arriAcd in England. Pointed out to the king, it is said, by an angel in a dream, as the chosen hero of England, tho' disguised in the habit of a pilgrim, he \v:as entreated to accept the challenge, and finally consented. On the day of battle, the two champions appeared, fully accoutred, in the appointed tield, near Winchester. Col- brand was so heavily armed, that his horse could scarcely support his weight. Soon after the first encounter, the giant cut off the head of Guy's horse. But, in a fresh attack, as Colbrand was stooping to take up his sword, of which he had lost hold, Guy seized the favorable opportunitv, and, with one mighty blow, stmck ofi* his riii'ht hand. Yet the giant continued to fight with the other hand till, in tlie evening, faint with the loss of blood, he was obliged to yield ; and the English hero was * See the Legend of Guy E. of Warwick. Sea aho in Dodsi.et's Eelhinci of Ancient Eng. Poetry, " A Plcasaiii Song of ihe valiant Deeds of Sir Guy ot Warwick." D 2(5 HISTORY OF THE Guys Armour preserved Truth of his Story disputed. declared victorious. After the battle, Guy first made himself known, under an oath of secrecy, to the Saxon monarch; and then retired to Gui/s Cliff] near IVarwick; where he Kved the life of a hermit, without discovering himself even to his wife Felicia, who resided at the Castle, till near his death, which happened in 929. Colbrand's battle axe was formerly preserved in Winchester Cathedral. Guy's armour, so called, still remains ; and is to be seen, as well as the vertebrae of the Wild Boar, and the ribs of the Dun Cow, in the Porter's Lodge, at the entrance of IVarwick Castle as will be distinctly noticed hereafter. One of the rooms of the castle was formerly adorned with arras, in which the story of the battle was represented. This suit of arras, together with the armour of the great champion, was, for many generations, bequeathed, as an heir-loom, in the family of the Beauchamps, and other Earls of IVarwick ; and in the reign of Henry VIH, the custody of the sword was granted by patent to William Hoggeson, yeo- man of the buttery, with a salai-y of 2d. per day. The story ol Guy, as above recited, is received as true by several authors of high celebrity, as Rous, Leland, Camden, Heylin, and Dugdale ;* yet, it must now be added, that many great and weighty, even insurmountable objections, have been opposed to its credibility, particularly in a memoir by Dr. Pegge, read to the Society of Anti- quaries, May 7} '^7^7 i to which we must refer the curious reader,^ Upon the whole, that there was a renowned warrior, of the name of Guy, of large size and c^reat Lei. liin. i. 63 Caiud. Brit. Col. l43. He yli n's History of St. George, p. 65 DvoBALX, p. 183. $ Bibliolb. Tugopr. BriUn. Nu. zvii. EARLS OF WARWICK. . %l Successors of Guy Origin of *' tht Bear and Ragged Staff." prowess, living in the Saxon times, the fair and reasonable enquirer will, probably, not be disposed to deny; but that he was Earl of JVarwichy he will hesitate to admit ; and the account of his combat with the Danish Giant, and most of the other wonderful accounts related of him, he will certainly reject, with decided conviction, as the tales of monkish delusion or imposture. Of the reputed successors of Guy, in the Earldom of IFiarwick, (if he ever attained that dignity,) so little is known, that a bare enumeration of their names may here be thought sufficient. The first is said to have been Reyn- BURN, in the reign of Athelstan ; the second Wegeat, in that of Edgar ; the third Ufa, in that of Edward the Martyr; the fourth Wolgeat, in that of Ethelred; the fifth Wi GOD, in that of Edmund; the sixth Alwyne, iii that of Edward the Confessor; and the last, Turchill, of whom some notice has already been taken.* We shall only subjoin, here, the account, which Rous has given, of the origin of the device, a bear and ragged stajf] adopted by the Earls of PFarwick, as ensigns of their dignity, from the earliest periods. The former, he says, was taken fi'om the name of one of the British Earh of IFarwlck, Arthal, which signifies in the British language a Bear: and, when another British Earl, named MoRVi, had vanquished a giant in a duel, with a young tree plucked up by the roots, and stripped of its branches, in token of that event, to the bear was added the ragged staff. This badge of distinction, adopted by many of the successive families, was re-assumed by the first of the present Earls, Francis Greville, in the year 1760. See page 6. D 2 128 HISTORY OF THE Henri/ Roger Witliaw Wultrun fie Nniburg. II. familp of tlje jIfcMurffjB?.* Henry de Newburg was the first Earl of Norman extraction. With that dignity, he received from the CoNftUEROR the Castle, the Manor, and the Royalty of the Borough, then vested in the Crown. It was hy him that IVedgnock Park was begun, and the Priory founded. He died 1123. Roger de Newburg, his eldest son and snccessor, was one of the witnesses to the laws of St. Stephen, and one of the supporters of Maude, against that King. By him the Priory was completed, and St. Marys made a Collegiate Church. By him, also, the Hospital of St. Michael, for Lepers, in the Salsford, and the House of the Templars, near the Bridge, were founded. He was greatly distinguished by his piety, displayed, according to the pre- vailing notions of the times, in large donations to religious houses, and freqnent visits to the Holy Land. He died, happy in the high reputation he had acquired and de- served, 1153. William de Newburg, his eldest son, was the third Earl. He founded two Hospitals in IVariciclx, St- Johns and St. Thomas' ; and built and endowed a Church for the Templars. He died in the Holy Land, 1 184. Waleran de Newburg, brother of William, was the fourth Earl. He died 1205. Henry de Newburg, his eldest son, the fifth * III ki'tcliiiig these sliort biograpliical notices, great ue hat l)ocn made of Edmonson's '' Account of ilie GntviLLt Fainil^r " to which woik recourse may be liad hy thojc, wlio witL fot mors I'uriivular accounts, or foi r^fc-reiicea lu ihc proper ftuitiuriiits. EARLS OF WARWICK. 29 Hniry ihomns de Neichurg John de FIcssetis Wiliunn Mcuduit. Earl, was attached to the part of King John in all his contests with the Barons. He died 1229. Thomas de Newburg, sixth Earl, died without issne, 1242, leaving Margery, his sister, heir to the Earldom, who was married to John de Plessetis, a Xorman, and the distinguished favorite of Henry HI. John de Plessetis took upon himself the title of Earl of JVarwich, in right of his wife ; and afterwards received from the King, the title of Comes irarwkl. He died 1262, without issue. His Countess was beneficent; and among other acts of charit\% bestoAved upon the poor of fVarwicJi, a Common Pasture, called Clai/ Pits, on the west side of the Town. WILLIA^f Mauduit, grandson of Waleran, by his daughter Alice, succeeded as the next heir to the Earldom. He was one of the adherents of Henry HI. in his wars with the Barons ; and was sui'prized in his Castle at Warwick, by John Giffard, Goveraor of Keniluovth Castle. The walls of his Castle were destroyed from tower to tower ; himself and his Counters were carried prisoners to Kenilicorth ; and he was obliged to pav for his ransom I900 marks. He died without issue 1267 ; leaving as heiress, Isabel, his sister, who was married to William de Beauchamp, Baron of Elmleu, in JVorcestershire. III. family of tljc 25caucljamp.sf, At the time of the conquest, the Beaia/uinips were considered as one of the principal Xorman Families. They received from their royal master, on his advancement to the 30 HISTORY OF THE William Gui/ Thomas de Beuuc/iamp. English Tlirone, great addition of power and possession ; and still greater accnied to them from the marriage of William, one of the family, to Isabel, in her own right Countess of IVaruick. It appears, however, that Isabel had previously taken the monastic vow ; and that neither she, nor her husband, according to the custom of the times, assumed the dignity to which they were entitled. William de Beauchamp, their eldest son, there- fore, even in the lifetime of his parents, received the title of Earl of IFarwick. He was greatly distinguished by the eminent services, which he rendered to his country, in various civil and military employments, for 26 years, in the reign of Edward I. He died 1298, and was buried in the Chapel of Worcester Cathedral, where his tomb still remains. Guy de Beauchamp, his eldest son, succeeded to the Earldom. At the battle of FalMrk he obtained high distinction, and received, for his reward, by royal grant, large possessions in Scotland. It was this Earl who seized the person of Gaveston, the royal favourite, and caused him to be beheaded on BlacJdow Hill. Though he afterwards obtained the King's pardon, he was never again received into favor. He died, as some say, by poison, 1315. Thomas de Beauchamp, his eldest son, besides other hiiili and important offices, was created Sheriff of IFanviclshire S^ Leicestershire for life, and Earl Marshal of England. He attended the king in his Scottish and iMViich wars ; and was one of the commanders under the liLAc:: Prince, v,1io led the van of the English army in the EARLS OF WARWICK. 31 2'fie second Thomas de Beaucliump. celebrated battle of Cressy ; and greatly distinguished himself, also, in the equally celebrated battle of Poictiers. He afterwards attended Prince Edward, in an expedi- tion against the Infidels to the Holy Land. His ardor, however, for military achievements abroad, did not pre- vent his attention to ilhe welfare of his own country, and particularly to the improvement of his paternal abode and his native town. He rebuilt the walls of the Castle, w^hich in Earl Mauduifs time had been demolished ; added strong gates ; and fortified the entrance, with em- battled towers. He founded, also, the choir of the Col- legiate Church; built a Booth Hall, in the 3farket-place ; and made the town toll-free. His last exploit wan an ex- pedition for the relief of the English army, reduced to the greatest difficulties before Calais ; in which, he completely succeeded. But here his career of glory was suddenly arrested ; and, by a fever, he was brought to the grave, 1370. His body was conveyed to his native town, and buried in the middle of the choir of St. Mary's, where his tomb still remains, with his effigy and that of his countess, who died before him, admirably executed in white marble. He had seven sons, and ten daughters, whose portraits were formerly to be seen in the windows on the south side of the chancel of the same church ; but they have long since disappeared. Thomas de Beauchamp, the second son, in conse- quence of the previous death of his elder brother, Guy, succeeded as heir to the earldom. He was ajipointed by the Parliament, governor to Richard II. during his minoritv : and was ever after highly and honorably distinguished by a firm opposition to the unjust and impolitic measures of his unworthy favorites. Dismissed, with the rest of his great .32 HISTORY OF THE The second Thomas Richard dc Beouchainp. officers, from the court, when the young king assumed the, government, the Earl oj IVarwick retired to his Castle ; where he spent some years, occupied in building and other improvements, suited to the extent of his fortune and the hberality of his spirit. By him, the noble tower at the north-east corner was built, and called, in honor of the Saxon hero, Guy's Tower. By him, also, the body of St. Marys Church, in 1314, was completed. But though peaceful and retired, ocaipied only in works of pu])lic utility; he was still an object of resentment to the king. The misguided monarch had already eifected the death of his uncle, the Duhe of Gloucester ; and he now formed designs against the life of his late Governor. Invited to a royal feast, his person was seized ; and, by a senile parliament, sentence of death was pronounced upon him. At the solicitation of the Eai'l of' Salisbury , the sentence was afterwards changed, to that of forfeiture of title and estate, and banishment to the Isle of Man. Thence, however, he was soon brought to London, and committed a close prisoner to the Tower; where he remained till the Revolution, which placed Henry IV. upon the thione, happily restored him to his liberty, and to all his lost rights. He died 1401, and was buried with his countess, in the south part of St. Marys Church. Their monument was destroved by the great tire ; but their portraits, engraven on a brass plate, were recovered, and placed against the Avail near the same spot. Richard de Beauchamp, the only son and suc- cessor of the late Earl, was one of the most considerable personages of the age, in which he lived. He was made Knight of the Biitb, at the coronation of Henry IV ; and was engaged in almost all the j)rincipal transactions EARLS OF WARWICK. 5^ Henry de Beaucfiatnp, Dul^e of Warwicky King of the Isle of Wight. of his reign. In 1408, he visited the Holy Sepulchre, foUbVved by a splendid retinue. Besides other honours, he was created Earl of Albemarle, expressly &,s a recom- pence for his bravery at the sieges of Caen, RoueHj arid other places. In 1418, he successfully negociated a treaty of marriage, between Henry V. and Catherinje daughtei* of Charles VL By the will of that prince, he was appointed governor to his infant son, Henry VI. ; and, on the death of the Duke of Bedford, was called to succeed him as Regent of France. He died at the Castle of Rouen, 1 439 ; ^^^j according to his directions, his body was brought over to England in a stone coffin, and placed before the altar in St. Mary's Chancel; till the chapel, begun by himself, should be completed, to which his re- mains were then to be removed, and where a stately monument was to be erected to his memory. All this was done by his executors ; and the monument, finely executed, is still in good preservation. Amongst other acts of liberality, this nobleman rebuilt the Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene at Guys Cliff'; established a Chantry there ; and erected the statue of the famous Guy, which still remains. Henry de Beauchamp, the eldest son of Richard, at the age of 14, became Earl of Warwick; and soon obtained the highest place in the favor of the reigning monarch ; who heaped upon him, with lavish hand, all the honors which royalty had to bestow. He was first created premier Earl of England; then Duke of 1Var~ wick ; and, finally, with unheard-of extravagance, was declared and crowned King of the Isle of Wight. But all his honours could not secure him from an early grave. He died 1445, at the age of 22, in his Castle of Hanky, E 34 HISTORY OF THE J ' Richard Neville, the Stout Earl of Waruick. fVorcestershire : and was buried in the Ahhey Church of Tewkesbury, near the tomb of Edward, son and heir of Henry VI. He married Cicely, daughter of Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury. By her he had only one daughter, who died in her infancy; and thus her aunt Ann became the heir to the Earldom, and the great inhe- ritance of the family. IV. f amilp of ^t\n\\t. Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury, grandson of Ralph Earl of Westmoreland, and Joan daughter of John of Gaunt, Duhe of Lancaster, married Ann, sister to the late Duke Henry ; and, in right of his wife, assumed the title of Earl of Warwick, which was after- wards confirmed by letters patent. He is known, in Eng- lish history, by the name of the '* Stout Earl, or the King Maker" " He was the greatest, as well as the last," says Hume, " of those mighty Barons, who formerly ^ over-awed the Crown, and rendered the people inca- " pable of any regular system of government."* In the beginning of the dispute between the houses of Kork and Lancaster, he took the side of the former ; and was the means of placing the Earl of March upon the throne, with the title of Edward IV. Constantly engaged in all the violent contests and intestine wars of these unhappy times; at length, April 14, 1471, he was slain, in the battle of Barnet, fighting at the head of his soldiers, in favor of Henry VI. whom, a few years before, he had dethroned. He was buried with his ancestors at Bisham, Berks. He left two daughters, his only issue : Isabel married to George Duke of Clarence ; and Ann married, * HvuE T. iii. p. 182. EARLS OF WARWICK. 35 George Fiantagenet Edward Plantagenet. first to Edward Prince of Wiales, and next to Richard DuJce of Gloucester, afterwards King Richard III. His Countess, who sumved him many years, being despoiled of all her estates, lived and died in the greatest privacy and distress. Once, indeed, for a moment, she was re- called from her obscurity, and re-instated in the possession of her family inheritances. But this was only for the? cruel purpose of making her the instrument of transferring, with some sheAv of legal form, the whole of her immense estates to the Crown ; which was accordingly done, by special deed, in the 3d of Henry VII. V. family of plantagenet, George Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence, in con- sequence of his maniage with Isabel, eldest daughter of Richard Neville, was created Earl of Warwich, by his brother Edward IV. His chief residence was at JVarwick Castle. Here he projected vast plans of enlarging and improving both the town and the castle, some part of which he accomplished ; the rest was prevented by his death. Having incurred tlie suspicion of his brother, he was sent to the Tower ; attainted by the Parliament of high treason , and, according to his own strange choice of the mode of death, was drowned in a butt of malmsey.* He was buried near his dutchess, who died of poison, not long before. Edward Plantagenet, son of George, succeeded to the Earldom of fVarwich. Unfortunate almost from So the story of liis death is told hy Hume, Rapin, and most of the roodcra Hisloriant. But the account teems to depend chiefly, if not entirely, on tiie evidence uf Fabia!*; vrho lived, indeed, at the time, but was then very ^ounsr. The other con- temporary Historians say only that be was privatclij extciiled in the Towtr. E 2 36 HISTORY OF THE John Dudley Ambrose Dudley. his birth, he was nursed, and lived the greatest part of his short life, in a prison. During the reign of his nnclc Rich. HI. he was confined at the castle of Sheriff' Hutton, in Yorkshire ; and after the death of that prince, in the Field of Bosworth, he was removed by Henry VH. to the Tower of London, Here, his sufferings were of no long duration. He was accused, upon the most frivolous pre* tences, of entering into the conspiracy of Perkin War- beck ; and, in the 25th year of his age, was beheaded on Tower-hill, 1499. After his death, the title of Earl of IVarwick lay dormant, 48 years. VI. f amtlp of SDutilcp. John Dudley, Lord Viscount Lisle, was a des- cendant of the eldest daughter of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of tVarwich. His father, for his oppressions and extortions, had suffered decapitation, in the reign of Hen. VIII. The son was, however, soon afterwards restored in blood ; created, first. Lord Viscouiit Lisle ; then Earl of IVarwick ; and, finally, raised to the dignity of Duke of Northumberland. But, after the death of his royal master, Henry VIII. failing in an attempt to elevate to the throne. Lady Jane Grey, wife of his son. Lord Guildford Dudley, he was beheaded 22d August, 1553. Ambrose Dudley, son of John, who had been restored in blood, was in 1557, created Viscount Lisle, and Earl oj IVarwick ; and at the same time, obtained a grant of the castle, manor, and borough of IVarwick, together with other estates, which, in consequence of his father's attainder, had escheated to the Crown. He died in 1589 ; ^"^^ ^'^'''^'' buned in the Beauchamp Chapel, where a noble monument, erected to bis memory, still EARLS OF WARWICK. 37 Robert Robert Robert Rich. remains, in excellent preservation. He manied three wives; but left no issue ; and thus the title became a second time extinct. One title, however, belongs, by universal consent, to this nobleman, which, if justly bestowed, must for ever remain ; and which, if men were truly wise, would always be regarded as the highest and most enviable of all ^that of the Good Earl of IVarwick. VII. ipamilpofilicli* Robert Lord Rich, was the first of this family, who, in the year 16I8, by the favor of James I. received the title of Earl of Warwick. But he did not long enjoy his new dignity ; within only a few months after his elevation to it, he died. Robert, his eldest son, succeeded him. He was created Lord High Admiral of England; but, though not destitute of abilities, he displayed little knowledge of naval affairs. He was a man of sprightly gaiety, of varied and pleasing conversation; and possessed, in a high degree, the charms of agreeable and fascinating manners. Under much affected piety, he endeavoured to conceal still more real profligacy ; and though he was considered in that age, as the head of the godli/ party, his real place, it is feared, must be fixed amongst the irreligious and the licen- tious. He died, l658, Robert, his eldest son, who became the next Earl, enjoyed his title and honors only one year ; and lied, without male issue, 1659. Charles, his brother, as next heir, succeeded to the earldom. His only son was married to Frances, S9 HISTORY OF THE Robert Edward Edward Henrij Rich Fulk Grevit/e. youngest daughter of Oliver, Lord Protector : but died before his father. RoBEHT, Earl of Holland^ cousin oH Charles, was the next Earl. He died 1689. Edward, his son, succeeded to the title and honors of Earl of Warwick and Holland , and died 1701. Edward Henry, the last of the Earls ot this family, dying without issue, 1759j the title of Earl of Warwich, became a third time extinct. vni. spamiip of tifte <arctincief. Of the families, which sprung from that of the Beauchamps, the ancient Earls of Warwich^ all of which either are now extinct or have transferred, by heiresses, their estates and honors to other families, few have been more considerable than that of Alcester and Powyhe ; from an heiress of which, the present family of the Grevilles are descended. Sir Fulk Greville, the first of the family who was ennobled by the title of Lord Brooke, was born 1554. Of the same age with his cousin, the highly- distinguished Sir Philip Sidney, they were educated together, at a school in Shrewsbury/. Fulk Greville, thence removed to Oxford; and, soon afterwards, to Cambridge. He then travelled abroad, for some years ; and, at length, returned home, the well informed and greatly accomplished gentleman. Introduced by his uncle, Rojbert Greville, at the Court of Oueen Elizabeth, EARLS OF WARWICK. 99 Fulk Greville, first Lord Brooke. iW^gyi I I ^^ I M i I ~ n i|i he was soon regarded as a person of extraordinary merit ; and was successively advanced to several high and honorable employments. Himself a man of letters,* and a lover of the arts, he diligently cultivated the acquaint- iance of most of the learned men and ingenious artists of his time. But he especially devoted himself, with fervent admiration, and fond affection to his cousin, Sir Philip Sidney ; whose intimate associate he was, from his earliest years. After his death, he endeavoured to perpetuate the memory of their mutual esteem and attachment, by writ- ing his Ufe, which was printed in l632 ; and, on his own tomb, by his own direction, it was recorded that he regarded the fiiendship of that great and excellent man, as the chief honor and happiness of his life. In 1601, he obtained from Queen Elizabeth, the grant of fi'lidge- nocJi Park; and, from her successor, James I. that of IVarwick Castle, and its immediate dependencies. The castle, he found in a ruinous condition. Its towers and strong holds were employed as the common gaol of the county. But at the expence of upwards of ^20,000. he repaired and adorned it ; and made it the seat of his family. He also purchased the adjoining grounds, and formed in it stately and extensive plantations. Though in his own right, he possessed the claim to nobility, as the heir of Robert Willoughby, Lord Broohe ; yet, to remove all ground of dispute, he accepted letters patent, in the reign of James I. by which he was advanced to the dignity of a Baron, with the title of Lord Brooke, Baron Brooke, of Beauchamp Court, in the county of Warwick. But a life of honor and usefulness, was terminated Besides " The Life of Sir P, Sidmf.y," ihe following works wrllteii by liim. wt'e published." Historj of ilit- Fire Yar of J.'.Mis I." ItJ^o, and " Tlie Rtfinaiiu <A fuLK Lord Brooks," 1670. 46 HISTORY OP THE Robert Greville, second Lord Brooke. Sept. 8, 1628, by a calamitous death. He was stabbed by his own sen'^ant, whom he had displeased j and who, immediately afterwards, killed himself. He was buried in the Chapter-house j on the north side of St. Mary's Church ; where his monument, erected by himself, with its remarkable inscription, is still to be seen^ Robert Greville, son of Fulk Greville, of Thorpe Latymerj in Lincolnshire, Esq. adopted in liis in- fancy, by his cousin, the first Lord Brooke, succeeded to his honors and estates. He soon afterwards married Cathe* RiNE Russel, eldest daughter of Francis Earl of Bed- ford. The political principles, imbibed in his earliest youth, and confirmed by his intimate connection with the Bedford family, taught him to regard civil and religious liberty as the first of national blessings; and inspired him with sorrow and disgust, at the measures pursued by the Court, in the unhappy reign of Charles I. He in consequence formed a design of removing to America, in company with Lord f^iscount Say and Sele ; and a settleinent was formed for their reception in New England, to which was given the name of Sayhroohe. But when a spirit of opposition to the arbitrary government, which oppressed his native country, broke forth, he determined to remain, and to exert all his influence in support of its rights and liberties. He took, accordingly, the side of the Parliament, as already mentioned ; * and proved him- self a firm and powerful supporter of their cause. After the Battle of Edge-hill, he was appointed Commander-in- Chief of the associated counties of Warwick and Stafford, In the former of these counties all opposition to him ' ' III . - i-i . ^ See page 8023. EARLS OP WARWICK. 41 ' > * 1, Francis Robert Greville t/iird and fourth Lord Brooke. soon ceased ; and he hastened to dislodge Lord Ches- terfield from his position at Lichfield. At the head of 1,200 horse and foot, he speedily drove his enemy from the town, into the close of the Cathedral ; and this place he instantly prepared to assault. But, whilst he was in the act of looking out of the window of a house, in order to give some directions, he was shot in tlie light eye, by a bullet; and immediately died, March 1, l642 leaving behind him a character for talents, for courage, and for many great and amiable qualities, which his friends have ever affectionately admired, and which even his adversaries have candidly acknowledged, and impartially applauded.* He left ijjsue by his wife, five sons, Francis, Robert, Edward, Algernon, and Fulke ; of whom the third and fourth died early, and the other three succeeded to the title. Francis Greville, the eldest son of Robert, was the third Lord Brooke ; but enjoyed his dignity only a few months. He died unmarried, 1642. Robert Greville, the second son, succeeded his brother as Lord Brooke. He was one of the six Peers sent to Charles H. in Holland, by the House of Peers, to present their humble petition that his majesty would be pleased to return. He was appointed Lord Lieutenant of the county of Stafford, High Steward of Stafford, and of Sir atfo7^d-on- Avon ; and in the new Charter granted to the Corporation, was constituted Recorder of IFarivich. * Dugdale's Bar. v. ii. p. 443. Clarendon, t. ii. p. 149. Baxtxh's Sdintj' Rest. p. 82, 83. Edit. 1649. Milton's Proie Works, v. i. p 1 33. Ma- t;*ULir, t. iii. p. 414. Wood's Atb. Oxon. F 43 HISTORY OF THE Vulke Vulke WiUiam^lfth, sixth, and seventh Lord Brooke. He contributed much to the embellishments of the Cas- tle, and fitted up magnificently its suite of State Apafrt- ments. He died at Bath, 16/6, leaving no male issue. FuLKE Greville, his youngest brother, succeeded to his title and estates. On the renewal of the Charter, he was appointed Recorder of H^arwick for life. He died at Twickenham, 1710. By his wife Sarah, daughter of Sir Francis Dashwood, Knight, he had seven sons and four daughters. Of these his eldest son, Francis, married Ann, daughter of John Wilmot, Esq. but died before his father, leaving issue two sops, Fulke, and William. FuLKE Greville Lo?'d Brooke, survived his father and grandfather only five months. He died at Oxford, 1711, unmarried. William Greville succeeded to the title on the ffecease of his elder brother ; and, on coming of age, was chosen Recorder of IVainvick. He married Ann daughter and coheir of Thomas Thynne, Esq. ; and died July 28, I722, leaving his honors and estates to Francis, his third, but only surviving son. Francis Greville succeeded to the title of Lord Brooke, when he was but eight years old. Soon after coming of age, he was chosen Recorder of H'^arwic];. In May, 1742, he married the Hon. Elizabeth Hamilton^ eldest daughter of Lord Archibald Hamilton, son of William, Duke of Hamilton. By this Lady he had three sons, Geor6e, who succeeded him; Charles-Francis, who died unmarriedj 1809; Robert-Fclke, afterwards Groom EARLS OF WARWICK. '4^ Francis GrevcUe, eighth Lord Brooke, (he first Earl of Waiwick. of the Bedchamber to the King, who married Louisa, Countess of Mansfield; and five daughters, Louisa- Augusta, married to Wm. Churchill, Esq. ; Frances- Elizabeth, married to the late Sir H. Harper ; Char- lotte-Mary, married to John, Eml of Galloway ; Isabella, who died in infancy ; and Anne, who died in 1783. In the year 1/46, Francis Lord Brooke was raised to the dignity of an Earl, by the title of Earl Brooke. On the death of the Duke of Montague in 1/49, he was appointed Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of the County of Warwick; and in 17^3, he was created Knight of the most ancient Order of the Thistle. On the 13th Nov. 1759, he was advanced by George II. to the further dignity of Earl of Warwick ; and afterwai ms obtained a grant to himself and to his descendants, to bear the ancient crest of the hear and rugged staff. His Lordship died July 6, 1773- The Manor of Warwick, which, after the death of Ambrose Dudley, had remained in the possession ot the crown, until granted by Charles I. to the Corporation of London, and by them sold to Wm. Bolton, Esq. oi London, was purchased of his family by this Eay^l, in the year 1742; and was, thus, again united to the Castle. George Greville, Earl Brooke and Warwick, Haron Brooke, of Beauchamp Court, in Warwickshire ; Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulonim of the County; Recorder of Warwick ; Fellow of the Rpyal Society ; succeeded his father 177-'^' ^^^ ^^^ 1st of April, 1771, he married Georgiana, only daughter of James Lord Sclsetj, who died April 1, 1772, leaving one son George, who also died at the age of 14. His Lordship again married July 9, 177^, Henrietta, daughter of Richard Vernon, F 2 44 HISTORY OF, &c. George Greville, the present Earl of Warwick. Esq. and of Evelyn, Countess of Upper Ossory, and sister to Granville, Marquis of Stafford. By this Lady his Lordship has had three sons, and five daughters : Henry, Lord Brooke, Colonel of the Warwickshire Mili- tia, and Member for the Borough of JVarwich, in three successive Parliaments ; Charles, Lieutenant-Colonel of the 38th regiment of foot ; Robert, who died July l6, 1802; Elizabeth, who died Jan. 23, 1806; Henrietta, married to Thomas Scott, Earl of Clonmell ; Caroline ; Augusta Louisa; and Charlotte. SCrmortal $5earingi0f Arms. Sable, on a cross, within a border ingrailed, or, five pellets. Crests. Out of a ducal coronet, gules, a swan with wings expanded, argent, beaked, of the first. And on a wreath of his colours, a bear erect, argent, muzzled, gules, supporting a ragged staff of the first. Supporters. Two swans, with wings expanded, argent, legged, sable, beaked, and ducally collared, gules. Mot- to, f^ix ea nostra voco. PRESENT STATE, &c. 45 Situation of the ToTon. CHAP. lY. ^re^ent ,^tate of f^arluicft* Situation Principal Streets Improvements after the Great Fire Recent Improvements Paving Flagging Lighting Trade Markets Public Amusements Population Corporate Body Number of Electors Prin- cioal Inns Banks Daily Posts Land and Water Communication Geographical Position Surrounding Roads (Objects of curiosity in the Vicinity' J\ OTHING can well be imagined more happily chosen, than the situation of IVarwich; "in which" says Dug- dale," this town may justly glory beyond any other," "It ** stands on a main rocky hill," *rising in every direction, particularly in that of east and west : and the ascent, M'hich marks the immediate approach into the town, terminates in the central streets. In one of the oldest descriptions of PFarwick, it is remarked that "the entrance " into it is, by four roads, leading by as many religious " houses, thro' a rock, over a current of water." The works of nature are not frail and transient, in an equal de- gree at least, as those of art : and whilst the same rocks still rise and the same currents still flow, all the religious edifices, here alluded to, have either ceased to exist, or have long since been converted to different purposes. The four roads, however, are, probably, the same as the present roads to Birmingham, Stratford, Coventry, and Banbury. * Leland. $ They were, probablv, Sf. Mic/irter* ill the Saltsforfi; S;. Latvrevce's in the Weit Strtet ; 5t. John't near the Coton-End ; and St. Helen's near the Bridge-End. 46 PRESENT STATE > ' ' M^ ^ lining ^MMM . Tract of counlrij surrounding the Town. The fine rocky eminence on which the town stands, is itself seated in the midst of a spacious and beautiful amphitheatre, formed by a circuit of hills, gently rising, at the distance of about two or three miles, and bounding its prospect on every side ; except to the north-east, where the view extends into Northamptonshire; and to the south-west, Avhere it opens over a vast expanse of country, terminated by the Gloucestershire vaA f^orcesters hire hi\h. This whole surrounding tract is naturally fertile, and highly cultivated ; intersected every where with remark- ably fine hedges, to which great attention is paid ; richly Ipmbellished with flourishing trees and woods ; and beau- tifully watered by the meanderings of the Avon, which is here a considerable stream, and its tributary river, the Leam, Avhich joins it near fVaimick. This delightful situation is further recommended by the salubrity of its atmosphere, which is pure, dry, and so warm, that the seasons are usually a fortnight earlier here, than in many places not more distant than twenty or thirty miles. ** The beauty and glory of fFarwick,'' says Le- JLAND, " is in two streets, whereof one is called the High " Street, and goeth from the East Gate to the West, " having a right goodly cross in the middle of it ; the *' other crosseth the middle of it, making a quadrivium, " and goeth from north to south. " The cross has long ago been removed ; but the principal streets still retain the same direction ; and continue to deserve, in the same degree, the praise of spacious and handsome streets. Since the days of Leland, who flourished about the year 1530, as may well be supposed, the town has witnessed many and great changes, especially in consetjuence of the dreadful fire which, in 16.94, destroyed bo large a part of it. OF WARWICK. 47 Principal Streets Recent Improvements. But this calamity, deplorable as it was at the time, proved in the end truly beneficial. For, from its ashes, the town once more arose, erected upon -a plan of greater spaci-^ onsness, regularity and beauty : and thus, in its improved appearance, and especially in its superior convenience and healthfnlness, the most important advantnges have been secured, and transmitted down to all its future inhabitants. But notwithstanding these great advantages of appearance and situation, IVarwick has long been consi- dered and described as a place, remarkable for dull inac- tivity, and for the careless inattention of the inhabitants to all that might obviously contribute to its improvement, and its embellishment. This reproach stands recorded against it in many publications, both in prose and poetry.* But it will now be allowed, we think, that such reproaches if ever just, are so no longer, or at least are becoming less so every day : and that there is the fairest ])rospect of seeing IFarwich rise to a distinguished rank amongst the most considerable county towns of England. The inha- bitants have lately displayed their spirit and liberality, a* well as their taste, in many great and important improve- ments ; of which the last, though not the least, is the culverting, fliigging and paving of all the principal streets. This is now substantially and handsomely done, at the expence of upwards of ^5,000. the whole of which was defrayed by voluntary subscription. During the winter months, the town is also lighted, the expence of which is defrayed out of the funds of the coii^oration. The streets are of ample breadth; and bnilt with considerable S'j AppenUiK, Ny, r>. 48 PRESENT STATE Tr (ide Markets Public Amusements. attention to uniformity. Most of the nan'ower parts liave been widened; and almost every inconvenient ob- stniction or unsightly appearance removed. Many of the private houses are modem and handsome ; many of the shops are newly fronted, and tastefully fitted up ; and all the public edifices are at once substantial and ornamental. In short, by these and other improvements, conducted both with spirit and judgment, Warwick has been gi'eatly raised in its general appearance and character: and may now fairly claim to be described, not only as a neat, airy, and cleanly ; but also, to a certain extent, as a spacious, regular, handsome and flourishing Town. With no pretension to rank amongst the larger commercial or manufacturing towns of England, IFar- tvick may yet boast of some considerable share of trade, which is in a progressive state: and of exhibiting a little more than formerly of that stir and bustle, which trade usually produces. Its markets, held every Saturday, which were formerly inconsiderable, are now large, well- supplied, and numerously attended. The Canal lately completed from Birmingham to this place, and continued thence to Napton, where it joins the Oxford^ and with it the Grand Junction Canal; the two Cotton, the Lace, and especially the Worsted Manvfactory , lately esta- blished, upon a large scale, by some ingenious and en- terprising individuals, have already contributed nmch to its chearful activity and growing population. The assizes, the quarter sessions, the several fairs amounting to twelve in a year ; the horse races in September, followed bv a second in November; the winter assemblies, the occasio- nal theatrical amusements, the long-established and Avell- buppoited hunt, lately under the direction of Mr. Corbet, OF WARWICK. 49 Population Municipal Government. now of Lord Middleton, whose principal center is in its vicinity ; and above all, the numerous and fashionable resort of nobility and gentry, attracted either by the fame of its magnificent Castle, or by the celebrity of the medicinal Springs at Leamington, a rapidly-rising water- ing-place, in its neighbourhood all these circumstances have concurred to give a considei'able and an increasing life and spirit to the place. Upon the whole, if we may hazard a prediction, founded on the experience of only a few past years, IVarwick bids fair, perhaps at no very distant period, to all its other attractions, to add those of numerous and handsome shops, lively and bustling streets, increased and improved buildings, and an enlarged and thriving population. In the time of Dr. Thomas, whose edition of Dugdales fVarwichshire was published in 1/30, the number of houses were, in the parish of St. Mary 676, and in that of St. Nicholas 240. According to the last Census, taken by order of government, in 1811, in St. Mary's parish were, inhabited houses 960 famiUes 1059 males 2272 females 268 1, In St. Nicholas' parish inhabited houses 29 1 families 376 males 740 females 804. The total population, therefore, will be 6497 persons. The municipal government of the town is vested in a mayor, a recorder, 12 aldermen, and 12 principal burgesses, with a town clerk ; who have power to make laws for the regulation of the borough, and to impose reasonable fines and penalties upon all offenders. The first recorder appointed by the present charter was Fulke Lord Brooke, and the recorder at tliis time is, his des- cendant, the present Earl of JVarwick. G 50 PRESENT STATE Right of Election Public Buildings Churches. This borough sends two members to Parliament, as already noticed. The right of election depends on th payment of certain rates to the church and poor, com- monly called scot and lot. The number of electors is about 500. The present members are, the Rt. Hon. Lord Brooke, and Charles Mills, Esa. The principal public edifices are, The County Hall, The County Gaol, The County Bridewell, The Courts House, and The Marltet-House. The churches are two, St. Marys, and St. Nicliolas. St. James" Chapel, at the lower end of the High-street is private, and belongs to Leicester's Hospital; and that of St. Peter's, at the east- ern extremity of Jury-street, has long been used for the purposes of a Charity School. There are places of worship belonging to the different classes of Dissenters, the Presbyterian, the Quaker, the Independent, the Baptist, and the Westleyan. The principal Inns are, the Warwich Arms, the Black Swan, and the fVoolpack. At the latter, the Post- Office is established. There are two Banks ; of which, the finn of the first is, " Tomes, Russell, Tomes, and Russell;'* that of the second, "Whitehead, Weston, AND Greenway." In Jury-street, is a News-Room ; and near the Market Place, a Public Library, respectably supported by annual subscription. A Newspaper is pub- lished weekly. The Post from Coventry, and the north-eastern parts of the countiy, arrives every day at eleven, and that from London, at about the same hour. The former returns at twelve, the latter at tliree. There are com- OF WARWICK. 51 Geographical Position Surrounding Roads. munications, by coaches, with Birmingham, Coventry^ Leicester, Gloucester, Bristol, and London; and, by waggon, with these, and most other places in the king- dom. The Birmingham and Warwick Canal opens a communication by water, with all the northern parts ; and the IVarwick and Napton Canal with all the southern parts of the kingdom. The geographical situation of IVarwich is 52. 4. N. Lat. 1. 35. W. Long. The distance from London is ^3 miles, bearing N. W. and from some of the principal surrounding places the distances are as follows ; from Leamington, 2 miles ; from Kenilworth, 5 ; from Coventry 10; from Rugby, 15; from Southam, 9; Daventry, 20;. Kington, \\ ', Banbury, 20; Stratford, 8 ; Knowle, 10; and Birmingham, 21. The roads in Warivichshire are remarkably good; and those in the neighbourhood of fVarwick are some of the best in the kingdom. Nothing can easily exceed, in all that contributes to the pleasure of a fine ride, the road from Stratford through fVarwick to Coventry ; and there are other roads, singularly pleasant, in various directions round the town. Amongst the numerous objects of at- traction, besides the Castle, in the town itself; there are, in its vicinity, Guy's-Cliff, Ruins of Kenilworth Castle, Stoneleigh Abbey, Charlcott House, Combe Abbey ; and, at the distance of eight miles, is Stratford-on-Avon, dis- tinguished as the place where England's favorite Poet, " sweetest Shakespeare, Fancy's child," was born, and where he died. g2 53 PERAMBULATION High Street Bank Warwick Arms Presbyterian Chapel. CHAP. V. 3^etamBuktxon of D^attoitli* High Street Cow Lane West Street Jury Street Smith Street St. John's Coton-Endfhe Butts Back Hill Castle Gates Mill Street-Bridge End Castle Street Church Street North Gate Street Priory Park Entrance Oil Mill Lane Sallsford Market Place New Street Bowlins Green Friar iMne Race Course. X N taking a more particular survey of IVarwich or in guiding the walk of the stranger through it we may observe, that what Leland calls the High Street, is now divided into two : of which, that which runs in a w esterly direction alone retains the name, and is one of the best in the town. Most of the houses here are good ; and some, large and handsome. Their want of suihcient ele- vation, however, and the tiled roofs standing out too strongly to view, somewhat diminish the general effect. About the middle, on the south side, is the Bank of Messrs. Whitehead, Weston, and Greenway. Lower down, on the same side, one of the principal inns, the WarLcick Arms, presents a spacious front, built of white stone, in a pleasing style of simple elegance. Opposite is the Printing-Office, w^hence issues, every Saturday, a Newspaper, which, though in its infancy, has already ol>- tained an extensive circulation. Still lower down, on the south side, stands one of the Dissenfbig Chapels, a small but neat edifice, belonging to those who are commonly, but OF WARWICK. 6S Quaker's Meeting Independent Chapel St. James's West Street. improperly, called Presbyterians. Near it, concealed from sight, is the Meeting House of a society of Quakers, con- siderable in number, and respectable, as they ever are, in character. Almost opposite, at a small distance, in Cow Lane, but retired from view, is the Independent Chapel, a plain, nnadorned, but large and commodious building. In the same lane, stands Pickering's Alms Houses, of which, as well as of all the charitable and other institu- tions, distinct notice will be taken hereafter. The High Street is terminated, in a striking manner, by St. James's Chapel, belonging to Leicester s Hospital, for the relief of maimed soldiers, and decayed tradesmen, built on an arch, which presents the appearance of a gate-way en- trance into the town. It was anciently called Hongyngate. Near this chapel, on the south, began the dreadful Fire, so often mentioned in the course of this Work, just be- hind one of those houses, which, by their anti([ue appear- ance, still shew that they belong " to other times. '* Extending from this to the opposite side, and proceeding easterly, the devouring flames left the whole street, a heap of smoaking ruins. Through the high but dark Gate-way, beneath St. James's Chapel, is the passage leading to the West Street, which is broad and airy ; chiefly inhabited by industrious labourers and artisans ; forming a wide en- trance into the Town, from the Kington and Stratford Roads. In Leland's Itinerary, it is noticed "as a very large Street." Towards the extremity of it, anciently stood the Church of St. Lawrence, one of those religious edifices, of which formerly there were so many ; but of which, no remains can now be traced. At what time this church was founded is uncertain : but even almost / 64 PERAMBULATION Jurxf Street Coitrt-House liletck Swan. five hundred years ago, it is expressly described as being in a ruinous state ; and, by an ecclesiastical decree in the reign of Edward III. it was formally dissolved. Pro- ceeding up the fVest Street, from the Stratford Road, a fine view of St. Jajiiess Tower presents itself, appearing boldly in front, and rising loftily on its arch-way.* This chapel existed prior to the reign of Henry I. more than 700 years ago : but the present tower was erected by Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of IFarivich^ in the reign of RichardII. Returning back to the Cross branching from it easterly, is the Jury Street so called from the matted room in it, A\here the Juries were formerly impannelled. In this street stands the Court-House, a stately edifice, substantially built of stone. Over its door is placed the Royal Arms above, and those of the Borough under- neath ; in the centre, is the figure of Justice, with her usual insignia, the sword and the balance. Lower down, on the same side, is another of the principal Inns, the Black Swan, with a new" and good front. Many of the houses in this street, are old, and afford striking specimens of the ancient mode of architecture, especially the remains of one which was formerly the residence of the noble family of the Archers. But some are modern, and built in a style \^hich indicates the opulence of their possessors. The older buildings on each side, mark the points at which the destructive progress of the great fire, in this direction, was happily arrested. In moving down the II is to be Ininenteil, that tlie good effect of a large and e!l-proporlioiird window in this tower 15 entirely dclrojed, by the miserable economy of bricisiiig up the lower part of it. The bricKs are eviii left aiicovered witli plaster. OP WARWICK. 55 St. I'eler's St>iith Street St. Johns. whole of this street, St. Peter's Chapel will not fail to strike the eye, as a fine object. It was built as a place of religious worship in the reign of Henry VI. but is now converted to the benevolent puq)oses of a Charity School. In the centre, is the room appropriated to the boys ; and the newly added wing, built on the remains of the old town-walls, was intended for the use of the girls. It is pleasing to remark, of the two edifices, at the extremities of the two principal streets, at once ter- minating and adorning them, that one is devoted to the instruction of indigent youth, and the other to the con- solation of destitute and declining age. Passing through the arch-way of St. Peters, the Smith-Street opens to view '^ once distinguished" savs Leland, " as the residence of many Jews," and a little beyond, is a large and ancient mansion, still retaining marks of its former grandeur. It was originally the- Hospital of St. John the Baptist, founded in the reign of Henry II. by William Earl of Warwick, intended for the reception of the houseless poor, and the wandering stranger. This institution had however, from some un- known cause, ceased to exist, even prior to the general dissolution ; at which time the estate was in the possession of Anthony Stoughton, of the family of the Stoughtons, in Surrey. By him, probably, the pi'esent mansion was erected, which seems not to be much older than the time of Elizabeth. In consequence of the marriage of one of his female descendants to James Money, Esq. the estate passed into this family ; and, by his son, it was sold to the present Earl of IFarwich. It is now a private Academy. Oppo- site to it, is the spacious and delightful Roud to Coventry : and, at a small distance from it, appears a coasidorabJe 66 PERAMBULATION Coton End The Butts Back Hill Baptist Meeting. range of neat and comfortalile habitations, recently erect- ed, intended chiefly for the accommodation of persons^ employed in the newly-established Lace Mamtfactory. Beyond St. John's^ is Coton-End, a wide street, principally inhabited by the more laborious, but not the least useful, class of the community. It is mentioned in Domesday Book, by the name of Cotes, an old English word, which signifies House. It was originally part of the estate of Edwyne Eaf^l of Mercia ; then, it became the possession of the Congiueror himself; afterwards, it was granted to Henry Earl of JVarwick ; and, from him, was transmitted down to his descendants. Beyond Coton- End, is the Emscote Road. Returning back to St. Peter's Chapel, on the north side is that part, which is called the Butts, pro- bably, because hutts were formerly erected here for the practice of archery,* so much encouraged by our former sovereigns. In this part is situated the College School, a large and ancient building, almost concealed from view, by the luxuriant trees and shrubs of the surrounding gardens. Near it, is the Vicarage, belonging to the adjoining church of St. Mary ; and beyond it, is a range of houses, of the second rank, newly and uniformly built. On the south side of St. Peter's, opposite the Butts, descends a gentle declivity called the Back Hill, where, with unostentatious front, stands the Baptist Meeting-House. Adjoining, are some comfortable Alms This was iiiial ir. ibc vicinitj of most Towns. 'J'lierc is a place still called llie iSu TTS at Lricrtter, and alio aiiolher of the same name at Siamford, OF WARWICK. 57 Castle Gates \liU Street St. Nicholas. Houses, part founded by Thomas Oaken, and part by Nicholas Iffeler ; who both acquired affluent fortunes in this town, and were both liberal benefactors to it. On the opposite side, is the Castle wall ; and, at the lower extremity, stands its Castellated Entrance, plain and un- pretending, iu its exterior appearance * of which, how- ever, if it be said that it is scarcely worthy of the magni- ficent structure, to which it conducts ; at least, it may be remarked, that it excites no previous expectation : and therefore leaves the mind open to the full impression of that astonishment and delight, which the unanticipated view of any object of extraordinary sublimity or beauty naturally produces. Beyond the Castle gates, to the right, is the Mill Street, formerly the great eastern en- trance into the town, over an ancient Bridge of fourteen arches ; now fallen to decay, and purposely left in its ruinous state, to aid the effect of the fine view, which the venerable Castle, with its rising rocks and towering bat- tlements, and its whole surrounding scenery, here presents. This near view is seen to the best advantage, from the meadows, within the Castle Park, on the eastern bank of the river. Opposite the Castle gates, rurally seated, at a short remove from the road, is the Church of St. Nicholas, built in the style of modern gothic; of which if the exe- cution be good, the design, in the opinion of all the best judges, is bad. Between this church and St. John's, stood the ancient House of the Templars, founded by Roger Eaj^l of Waricich, in the reign of Henry I. It was well endowed with lands, of which the neighbouring meadows, pastures, and other fields, including the water niill, were part. Upon the suppression of the whole order in 1311, H 58 PERAMBULATION AVw lUidge B> idge-End Castle Utreet, these lands passed into the possession of the Hospitallers f Bahtally in this county ; and, after the general dissolu- tion, into that of the Dudleys, Earls of Warwick. At a small distance, easterly, is the New Bridge, lately erected over the Avon, consisting of one large cir- cular arch, measuring in its span 105 feet. Jnst beyond this bridge, three roads meet- of which the first, iri front, divides at the toll-gate, within vieAV, into the Tachhrohe and Banhury roads the second, to the right, conducts to the scanty remains of several considerable streets, known under the general name of the BRiccE-END. Here anciently stood the Church of St. Helens, of which some small traces, in what was then used as a barn, Avere till very lately to be found. The third road, on the left, conducts to My ton, written in Domesday Book, Muitone; formerly a considerable village, though now entirely de- populated with the exception of one single house, a handsome modem structure, called My ton House. It had formerly a chapel belonging to it, in which several Canons officiated, to whom it is recorded, that many valuable grants of lands were made by Roger, Earl of IVaruich, and others, in the time of King Stephen. From Myfon, the road leads on to Leamington ; proceeding tlience to Southani, and Daventty. Returning once more to the Cross at right angles to the High and Jury Street, on the south side, is the Castle Street, formerly of considerable extent, but now much contracted, by giving way to the wi- dening circle of the Castle pleasure grounds. On the north side, is the Church Street, in which are many good, and some handsome houses. Both sides of it wer* OF WARWICK. 59 Be Clmrch-Street St. Murys North Gate. Street Counti/ Hall. ' I r laid in ruins, by the great fire; which, extending westerly, involved in one dreadftil destruction, all the houses and streets between it and the Market Place. Proceeding tip this street, a fine near view of St. Mary's Church is presented which, notwithstanding some great and asto- nishing faults in its plan, is yet a grand, imposing, and extensive pile. On the right, appears the Chapel of the Beauchamps, one of the finest structures of its kind, in the kingdom. It is in the rich gothic style, and the view of the exterior will afford scarcely less delight, than that of the beautiral interior Turning, with regret, from this noble monument of ancient architecture, towards the cen- tral parts of the church, the large indeed, but surely uncouth and cumbrous windows, will particularly strike, and at the same time, justly offend the eye coustmcted, as they are, in utter defiance of all rule, and all taste The two rows of arches, in these windoAvs are Saxon, heavy at best, and here strangely out of place ; and of the grotesque forms above them, neither name nor resemblance can be found, either in that or any other system of ancient or modern architecture. ^Turning, however, to the left, the eye is better pleased where the light and elegant tower is seen, rearing its lofty pinnacles, producing great effect, in spite of all the faults in the form of its arches and windows. Passing through the wide arch-way, formed by the four piers on which St. Mary's Tower is built the North (tate Street opens to view which, though more retired, is spacious and handsome ; the residence chiefly of the gentry of IVarwich. It is particularly distinguished by its two noble and substantial buildings the County Hall, and the County Gaol. The former displays a front of wide extent, and considerable elegance, snppoitcMl by pil- H 2 60 PERAMBULATION County Gaol County Bridewell St. Mary's Touer. lars of the Corinthian order. The latter looks hiiilt for strength, agreeably to its character; and the front is supported by a row of massive pillars, of three quarters length, of the Doric order. At a small distance from it, in the Bridewell Lane, stands the Count if Bridewell; which is, also, a strong and handsome building, with a good stone front, and a garden before it. From any part of North-Gate Street, St. Marys Tower is strikingly seen, in near view, without interiiiption, from its base to its lofty summit. Nothing can exceed the exact and beautiful proportion, with which it rises to the great height of 174 feet. Though the style of architecture is justly regarded as a strange instance either of bad taste, or, M'hat is more probable, of perverse, or sportive humour, yet the design of it is attributed to no less a person than Sir Christopher Wren. The Latin inscription carried round three sides of the tower, briefly detailing the history of this church, imports that "it was first repaired by Roger de Newburg, Earl of TVarwich, in the time of King Ste- phen : that it was afterwards wholly rebuilt by Thomas DE Beauchamp, Earl of IFarwich, in the year 1394 ; that it was destroyed 1694, by a dreadful fire, which spared neither temples nor houses ; and that this new church begun by public, was finished by royal piety, under the happy auspices of Queen Anne, in the memorable year 1704 Few readers Avill want to be reminded that it was the glorious victory of Blenheim, obtained by the illustrious Marlborough, which will for ever render the year just mentioned, truly memorable indeed in the anhals of British history ! Proceeding to the lower extremity of North Gate Street, the entrance, through large iron gates, into the OF WARWICK 61 Cotton Manufactory Saltsford Poor House Worsted Manufactori/. Priori/ Park, appears. On the right hand is the Oil Mill Lane, in which is the Manufactori/ for the weaving of Cot- ton, established by Messrs. Parkers. Towards the left, down a steep descent, lately made less inconveniently so, by the present happy and prevailing spirit of improve- ment, is that part of the town called the Saltsford, distinguished by its large Worsted Maniifactory, carried on under the firm of Parkes and Brookhol se ; by its nume- rous and busy wharfs, chiefly filled with coal ; and by its increasing and industrious population. In this street, is the Poor House, unassuming in its external appearance, but humanely and judiciously regulated within. Towards the lower extremity, are the remains of the ancient church of St. Michael ; near which was also a Hospital for Lepers, of the same name. The latter founded so long ago as the reign of Henry I. by Roger, Earl of Warwick, has totally disappeared ; the small remains of the former, are now converted into the humble abodes of aged and infirm poverty. Beyond these, a newly erected street appears, consisting of airy and comfortable habitations provided for the accommodation of the numerous artisans, employed in the various departments of the Worsted Manufactory. The entrance from the Birmingham Road into the town is through the Saltsford ; and thence, into the 3Iar- het Place, the most direct way is by a road, deeply cat through the rock, which passes under a handsome Iron Bridge, the gift of one of the present Members, Charles Mills, Esa. The Market Place forms a pretty good square ; surrounded by numerous and some of them handsome ebops, and by several good inns, of the second rank. At i PERAMBULATION Market Place I'ublk l.ihrarij Theatre, the sonthem extremity, stands the Market House. Near it is the Woolpack, the third of the principal inns, newly erected, conveniently arranged, and well conducted. It is much frequented hy travellers. In the Market Place was anciently a church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist^ of which the first foun- dation is ascribed by Rous, to Caractacus, the most distinguished of all the early British chiefs. The walls of it were standing in the time of Dugdale : but even of these not the smallest trace is any longer to be found. Here, also, was formerly the Booth Hall, which was taken down only a few years ago : leuving, instead of an old and ruinous building, the present open and spacious area> At the northern extremity of the Market Place, in a short street, leading towards the church, is the Public Library. At right angles to this street, is ano- ther. New Street, so called from having been built in the place of one, that was utterly destroyed by the great Fire. At the comer of this, with a handsome stone front, stamls the Bank of Messrs. Tomes, Russell, Tomes and Russell. From one side of the Market Place, over the Iron Bridge, is the way to the Theatre ; of which, if its ex- ternal appearance promises nothing, the interior aff'oids ample space, and convenient accommodation, for all who usually resort to theatrical amusements. At the southern end of the same place, a small street conducts to the Bowling Green, delightfully situated on an eminence, commanding a rich, pleasing, and cxten- OF WARWICK 6^ Bowlinn Green Friar Lane Race Course. sive prospect. Further on, is the Friar Lane, so called, from a large building, which stood near it, belonging to the fraternity of Preaching Friars, called the Black Friars^ who came over to England, and settled here, in the reign of Henry III. Their habitation was surrendered, by deed, into the hands of Henry VIII. and was soon after demolished. The lands were granted, by Edward VI. to the Dudleys, Earls of JVarwick. The Friar Lane is the principal road to the Race C(mrse. The Race Course is esteemed one of the best in the kingdom. It extends round a large compass of ground, every where flat, except in one part ; and measures, in its whole extent, nearly two miles. For the accommo- dation of the numerous spectators, who usually resort to these diversions, a commodious Stand has been lately erect- ed, by private subscription. It presents, in its appearance, a handsome structure ; and, in its arrangement, is well con- trived for all the purposes intended. On the second floor is the principal apartment; which is a large room, whither the company may retire, in case of unfavorable weather : and, before it, on a kind of spacious balcony, tiers of seats are placed ; whence is commanded a fine and extensive view of the course. Above, on ^ large open area, a still more extensive view is obtained ; including the entire circum- ference of the course. Below, one convenient apartment is provided for the use of the company ; and the others, are formed into a comfortable dwelling for the herds- man, whose business it is to take charge of the nu- merous cattle sent to graze in these wide and fertile grounds which is common land. The rii'ht of com- monage, Avbicli is now a valuable consideration, is vested in the inhabitants of certain houses, within the parish of 64 PERAMBULATION, &c. Vieusjrom the liuce Ground Marble Yard. St. Mary, under certain regulations, which were settled, immediately after the great Fire, in 1694 ; and of which a copy will be given in the Appendix.* In different parts of the Rave Ground, are several good views of the town, with most of its principal objects, the Market House, the Prisons, the High Church, and St. James's : but its proud boast, the magnificent Castle, is not here to be seen ; except only in some of the morfe distant parts. Standing forward, conspicuously to view, are two houses, called the Marble Yard, one of sin- gular construction, but both substantially built, and most delightfully situated. They are the residence of the proprietors of the IVorsted Manufactory of which the extensive buildings appear, also, in full view; presenting an animated scene of busy and useful industrj^ -?^ri' Appendix, No. IV $ All indifferent view of lliis House i? given in llie Eeautiei of England, v. xi A view of the ancient Bridge mentioned p. t>7, may be seen in Gilpin's Northern Tour, v. i. p. 38, and part of the fine view, noticed in the same page, is well givea in one of iht ngravingi of " Warwick Cattle," a Poem, lately published. A WALK &c. es View of the Town and Castle from Leamington Road. CHAP. VI. % Walk tountx WatMth. View of the Toum ajid Cnstle from Leamington Road-^from Tachbrook Road- from the New Bridge from St. Nicholas' Meadow from Blacklow Hiil- from Coventry Road from Guys Cross Hill:from Hampton Bill- from Wedgenock Park-^Distant Viexo of Kenilworth Castle. JT ROM many points, in the immediate vicinity, the view of the Town and Castle of IVarwick is highly picturesque and beautiful : and to some of these we shall proceed to direct the notice of the Stranger, in the course of a Walk, at a small distance round it. Passing over the New Bridge and proceeding a little \vay on the Leamington Road from this point, one of the finest views of IVarwick presents itself, and displays, indeed, a scene of uncommon beauty and gran- deur.* In the fore-ground appears the rich meadows, through which the Avon gracefully takes its gentle and winding course : and, at a short distance, on the opposite bank, standing conspicuously forward to view, is the church of St. Nicholas, darkly shaded with trees behind. Near it is the Castellated Entrance of the Castle ; and, * Tliis i tlie View of WarK'ich which i given in the prejcnt Woik, I 66 A WALK ROUND View of the Town and Castle from heumington Road. ' I I liii i ' III' III* I i III II t a little above, the small but elegant tower of St. Peter's Chapel. Further back to the right is the Priory, em- bosomed in its own beautiful Avoods: and, still further to the right, is the ancient Hospital of St. John, which, no pleasing object in itself, is well relieved by the interpos- ing shade of trees. The town is seen, scattered about, interspersed with wood, rising in the center ; and crowned with its noble tower of St. Mary's, ascending far above the richly variegated and extensive groves of the Castle. On the left, eclipsing by its solemn grandeur every other object, appears the CASTLE, proudly seated on a bold and elevated rock, and raising high its towers and bat- tlements above all the lofty and spreading trees, which encircle it, and lend the aid of their varied shades, to diversify and enrich the prospect. The majestic towers of CiESAR, on the one side, and of Guy, on the other, with the grand embattled Gate-way in the middle, richly clad in the thickest foliage, would of themselves form a fine and a complete picture. * The New Bridge, in the front, may seem, by its modern elegance, to disturb the harmony of the scene. It, besides, somewhat awkwardly interposes between the eye of the spectator and the view of the Castle. It is, however, a noble object in itself, stretching across the river with one mighty span of 105 feet ; and contributes, perhaps, by the very contrast, to heighten the effect of the whole. Such are the outlines of the striking and beautiful scenery, which marks the approach to IVarwick, on the eastern side ; and few persons, it is believed, have ever beheld it, entering into the town, especially for the first time, M'ithout something Thij ii given in the present Work. Tlie same View may alio be secu in IxEtAND's Tit. Viewy p. 131. and in Tht Btaxitki of England and Wales. WARWICK. 67 View of the Town and Castle from Tuchbrook Road. of those high-raised emotions, which, possibly, may be termed enthusiastic but which he who has never felt, in contemplating views like this, is not to be envied. Perhaps, it may be considered as a defect in the view to which we have just pointed *^ that the modern and meaner buildings are too near; and, by their dis- tinctness, break and divide the whole too much into patches ; and thus impair the effect." Let, then, the lover of picturesque scenery, remove fixjm the Learnings ton Road ; and, at the Bridge, turning on the left, let him proceed along the road that leads to Tachbrook. Here, on a rising ground, about a mile from the town, his eye will be gratified by a view, which, in all that constitutes a beautiful and impressive landscape, few can surpass. Being on the same side of the town, it is of course, in many respects, the same as the former; but here the prospect is more extensive ; in its several parts, more harmoniously blended ; and, in its whole effect, more strikingly grand. In this, as in. the former view, appears in front SL Nicliolas' Church, distinctly, yet not glar- ingly seen. The small tower of St. Peter's may be discerned a little above it, but almost concealed and lost ia the verdant shade. The New Bridge scarcely appears, but its balustrade may be imperfectly seen. On the right, the Priori/ boldly discloses to view the summits of its spacious mansion, ascending above the beautiful groves, which encompass and adorn i*. The ancient Hospital of St. Johns appears farther to the right, partly screened from view, by its surrounding trees and shrubs. The noble tower of St. Marys Church majestically soars in the center, the most elevated object in the picture : ven the nave and wings of that stately edifice rise to 1 2 68 A WALK ROUND Viezv of the Castle from the New Bridge. view with just dignity. The Castle, super-eminently the glory of the scene, next presents itself to the astonished eye, in all its magnificence. The whole range of front, of ample breadth, and lofty height, displays itself, at once, with great effect : and its long line is finely broken and interspersed, by large and luxuriant trees, which throw their spreading arms about it, or push their aspir- ing tops above it. The towers and battlements, loftily rising, look with imposing gi'andeur. In front Ccesar's Tower presses forward to view ; whilst, behind it, Gvi/'s Tower ascends, as if in scorn, far above it. It is, however, a defect in this view, that these two magnificent towers are seen too much in the same straight line, and that the embattled Gateway is entirely lost to the sight. On the left appears the Maiden and other small towers. Still farther to the left, a new and a striking object is intro- duced, in the tower of St. James's Chapel; bursting on the sight from the thickest of the woods, which seem to encompass it. Its antique form, and sombre hue tnily harmonize with the solemn air of the Castle, and of the whole surrounding scene which is shut in by a gently rising, and deeply wooded country, stretching to a con- siderable extent, on every side. Having thus surveyed two of the finest prospects, which the town and castle of IVarwick presents on its eastern and southern side we shall next, conduct the Stranger to one or two that may be seen, on the northern and north-eastern side. Repassing the New Bridge he will hence see, in near and striking view, the Castle, with all its beautiful scenery the winding waters, the towering trees, and es- WARWICK. S View of Warwick from St. Nicholas Meadow from Guijs Cliff. pecially the prodigious rock on which it stands, and to which it seems united, rather by the hand of nature than that of human art. It is this view,* which, oftener per- haps than any other, is chosen by the numerous artists, whether amateurs or professors, who are so frequently at- tracted hither, in search of grand or pleasing subjects for the exercise of the pencil. Removing from the bridge towards the town, on the right, are the fertile meadows of St. Nicholas ; in the more distant parts of which, the stranger, desirous of seeing it in all its different points, may obtain another view, remarkably fine, of the town and the Castle, on the one side, and the river, with its noble Bridge, on the other. The rich woods which every where encircle the town, and those especially which sur- round the Castle, from this point, appear disposed in a manner singularly striking and beautiful. Hence, passing the Church, and bending to the right, let the stranger next proceed along the Coventry road, till he reach the neighbourhood of Guifs Cliff'. Here, turning, through a small gate, into a spacious field, on the right, his eye will be gratified by a view, entirely different from all the former ; and which, for fine and picturesque effect, may be considered as even superior. From this point the Castle and the Churches of St. Mary and St. Nicholas, rising from the bosom of stately and spreading trees, present the appearance of a rich and beautiful cluster of towers and groves ; nor is this fine assemblage Injured by the obtmsion of any modern or meaner buildings. It is in scenes, like this, where, If less ' * This View maj be ecti in Ireland's Picturtique Views on the Waraickdiire J von, p. 140. This View is also given in the same Work, p. 129. 70 A WALK ROUND View of the Town and Cattle from Blncktow Hill from Gut/'s Cross Hill. is disclosed to the eye, that more is left to the imagination ; and what the imagination touches, it generally embellishes and improves. Hence, probably, it is that the partial view of towers and battlements " bosom'd high in tufted trees/' according to the idea of the great Poet, or al- most concealed in the deep shade of woods, produces a greater impression on the mind, than the uninterrupted view of larger parts of the building, or the J'ull display of the whole edifice at once. Nearly the same view of tVarwick^ as that just noticed, may be seen, to great advantage, from the top of Blaclilow Hill, at a short distance farther, on the Coven- try road. From this eminence, also, a striking view is seen of Guy's Cliff House, deeply ambushed in towers of its own ancient groves, with the " softly flowing Avon ^ winding along, in a great length of course, through the fine 'tract of country, which it fertilizes and adorns. Near the summit of this hill, the stranger may read, commemora- tive of the melancholy event which here took place, the following inscription, cut in the rock, " P. Gaveston, Earl of Cornwall, beheaded 1311."* Leaving the neighbourhood of Guy's Cliff, and returning towards the town, on reaching the summit of a gentle ascent, in the road, the towers and woods of fJ^ar- wick again present themselves in nearer, but stnking view. This rising ground is still remembered by the name of Guy's Cross Hill probably from an ancient Pillar, erected on it, which certainly once existed, though it has Tlie letteri are of modern form : and llie date U erroneous. It onglil to be l3li. This view is noticed as finelj picturesque, bj Mr. WinKEa. See Xortherv Tour, vol. ii. p, iS7, WARWICK. 71 View of Warwick from Hampton-on-the-Hill. long since " perished 'mid the wreck of things that were.** To this pillar, as story tells, the celebrated Hero of the Cliff, was accustomed to repair, for the purpose either of indulging his pious meditations, or of venting his amorous effusions.* At the foot of this descent is a small gate, on the right, which leads, by a delightful walk, through the Priory Parh, into the central parts of the town. To the stranger if an admirer of picturesque associations of what is grand or beautiful in nature with what is noble or pleasing in works of human art it will, perhaps, be no unacceptable service, if we venture to point out two other views, more distant than the former, by which, it is presumed, he will not fail to be consider- ably interested and gratified. For the first of these let him proceed along the Henley road, on the southern edge of the Race-course, as far as Hampton ; and here, fiom the brow of a hill, just at the entrance of the village, a complete and well- united view of IVarwick, with all its principal objects, will be presented before him. The situation of the toAvn, finely seated on its rocky eminence, is here dis- tinctly seen. ^S*^. Mary's still the central and the highest object, supported and adorned by the woods and towers of the Castle on the one side ; and those of the Priorv, This Pillar is thus liuraorously noticed in an olrl poem entitled Iter Borrale, writ- Uvi ia I'JiS, bv Richard Corbeh, Bishop first of O.iford, tlien of Norwich : Bejond this, in the road way as wee went, A pillur stands, where this Colossus leant ; \Y litre he would sigh, and los, aiid, fur heart's eujc, Oliimcs wiitc: viTses, (some sav) such as tlieae : " Hire wtii I langulil!, in this s: , boivei," '* \Yl,!!si luy trfle love triiimphci in vo'.> hi^h toir- ' 72 A WALK ROUND View of Warwiik from Wcdgenock Park. and the Priori/ itself on the other ; the spire of St. Nicho- las, the tower of St. Petey's behind, and that of St. James in front, present a rich and well composed landscape, sunoundeJ on all sides by a tract of high cultivation ; beyond which opens a view of the Northamptonshire hills on the left, and those of Gloucestershire and ff^or- cesfershire on the right till the eye is lost in the wide horizon. For the second of these more distant views let the lover of beautiful prospects proceed through the grounds, near the Priori/, called the Pigwells, across the Saltsford common, and along the road which leads to the Old Park, anciently the celebrated Wedgenock ; but now converted to the purposes of agriculture ; though in one small inclosure, a herd of deer is still kept. As- cending a somewhat steep acclivity, passing by a farm- house on the summit, and turning into the fields, on the right from the high ground, on which he will now find himself the spectator wuU command, in grand prospect, before him, a rich, varied and extensive landscape. The situation of Warwick, elevated above the tract immedi- atelv around, and vet itself embosomed within a circuit of gently-rising hills, appears strikingly beautiful ; and nothing can exceed the richness and grandeur of the trees, rising with majestic loftiness, or spreading their deepening shades, in wide expanse, on every side. The Castle, the Church, the Prioi^y, the Chapel, being now removed to a considerable distance, lose all the discrimination of minuter parts, and melt into one fine and general mass of light and shade. The foreground is occupied by a tract of ])1 easing and fertile country, intersected with flourishing hedges, and adorned with numerous and well- WARWICK. 7 Distant View of Kenilzoortk Castle. grown trees. Behind, and on every side, a country of nearly the same description extends, including the villages of Cuhbingtorij Lillingtorif Offchurchj Radford, Ufton, Harhury, Chesterton, Tachhrook, and Barford. In the distance are seen the hills of Napton, those of Shuckhurgh Park, near Daventry, and the Edge Hills dividing this county from Oxfordshire, on the one side ; and the lofty Breedon and Broadway, on the other. After having sufficiently contemplated this view ^let the spectator turn in an opposite direction ; and, moving only a few steps, he will be equally surprised and delighted to see, in full prospect before him, the ruins of Kenilworth Castle. This stupendous pile, even at this distance, presents a grand appearance ; rearing its ivied summits, above the deep and solemn shades, which sur- round it. On one side appears the village of Kenilworth, with its spired Church, its ruined Priory, and its scattered habitations, pleasingly interspersed with wood. In the front is Goodrest, a substantial farm-house, built on the site of the ancient manor house, belonging to IVedgenock Park. It was so called, as Dugdale conjectures, be- cause some of the Countesses of Warwick were accus- tomed, during the period of childbirth, for the sake of quiet seclusion, to retire to this place ; where, it appears upon record, many of their children were born. In the distance, may be discerned, besides several village churches, the three spires of Coventry. It will be thought not a little remarkable that, from the same station, should thus be obtained a view at once of two of the most anci- ent and most magnificent Castles in the kingdom the one still towering in all its pride and pomp the other fallen prostrate, yet exhibiting venerable marks of former power and splendour, in its grand and awful ruins, K 74 TRADE OF Roi/al Mint in the time of the Anglo-Saxons. CHAP. Til. taDe of Wat^itk. Ancient Mint former Stuff Manufactory present state of general Trade Hat Manufactory Worsted Manufactory Cotton Weaving and Cotton Spinning Manufactory Lace Manufactory liavigutiou Mill. jO ROM all remaining records, it does not appear that TVarwick was ever distinguished in ancient times, as the seat of any extensive or important manufactory. Yet the fact must not be entirely omitted here, tliough it may not strictly belong to the subject, that in the age of the Anglo- Saxons, a Royal Mint was certainly established in this town. This is decisively proved by the curious coin of Hardicanute, mentioned in an early part of this work;* and also from two other coins, one of Canute, and the other of Harold II. minted here ; of both Avhich un- doubted specimens still remain. In proof of the same fact, the authority of the celebrated John Rous may also he adduced, who gives the following account of this royal mint. It was established, he says,|| in the eastern part of IVarwick, as he discovered from certain records, pre- served in the Collegiate Church of St. Mai^ ; in which he frequently read the names of Baldred, Everard, and other moneyers. He furtlier adds, as what he had " See pgc 3. . U " Warwiciensium pi ioribut temporibui omaginm trat ad OTicnUm,(j(C." Rous p. 194, WARWICK. 79 Fanner Stuff Manufactory. clearly ascertained, that the place, where the Vicars of the College lived, in his time, was the very place where the persons employed, in this ancient mint, resided. It is, indeed, sufficiently known, that, in the time of the Anglo-Saxons, there were mints in most of the counties of England : nor was it till after the reign of William THE CoNauEROR, that the business of coining was carried on principally in the Tower oi London; as it now is in the Neic Mint, erected on the eastern side of Tower Hill. But if from early, we descend to later times so far as the present researches have been able to discover, it appears that, for many ages after the Norman conquest, the whole trade of IFarwick was limited to the single object of supplying the wants of the inhabitants, and those of the immediate vicinity : nor was there any article, the produce of human ingenuity or labour, that could ob- tain for it celebrity, as a commercial or manufacturing town. About the beginning of the last century, however, we find a manufactory established, in this place, for the making of cheneys and arrotines ; and this was conducted, according to the notion of the times, on a scale of very considerable magnitude. It even appears that a large proportion of the poorer inhabitants were then engaged in the business of weaving these stuffs ; and that in almost every house, belonging to the labouring class, three or four wheels were constantly employed in spinning, for the use of the weavers. But this manufactory has since gra- dually declined ; nor, till within a very few late years, have the views of trade in general extended, in any other direction, beyond the demands, which the daily necessities of civilized life create, within the precincts of the town itself, and the surrounding country. With that K 2 76 TRADE OF - Present State of Trade Hat Manufactory. increased population, however, which we have hefore noticed, even this source of trade must of course have opened for itself a wider and deeper channel : and when the great resort of nobility and gentry to the neighbour- ing Spa of Leamington is further considered ; it will not surprise the Reader to be told, that the number of shops, within the last twenty years, has greatly multi- plied, and that the quantity of internal trade has been nearly doubled. But it must now be added that, of late years, some of the more enterprising traders of fVarwick have enlarged their views ; and entered into several branches of the wholesale trade, particularly that of linen and cotton. A considerable Manufactory of Hats, of very superior excel- lence, has, also, been carried on, for several years, under the direction of Messrs. Lamb. Near the Back Hill, an Iron Foundry vj^& established, in the year 1810, by Mr. T. Roberts who has obtained much reputation for the making of all sorts of machinery. The Canal, too, brought from Birmingham to this place, and continued thence to Napton, Braunston and London, has opened new and important sources of trade, particularly in corn and coal. But, for its great increase of reputation as a trading town, f'Varwick is principally indebted to the establishment of the four following Ma\iufactories of which we shall proceed to give some account concluding with a short notice of the newly erected Navigation Mill. THE WORSTED MANUFACTORY. The first in magnitude, though not in order of tlmr, is the IForstcd Spinning Manufactory, which was ftrst established in I'i^i), under the firm of Parkes, WARWICK. 7f Worated Cotton Weaving Manufactory. Brookhouse and Crompton. A large and commodious building has been erected, furnished with every conve- nience for carrying it on, in the most complete manner : and the main building is surrounded by others, adapted to the various purposes connected with this great under- taking. The works are put in motion by means of a Steam Engine, erected by Messrs. Bolton and Co. of which the power is equal to that of thirty horses. The number of hands employed is about 500. The wool is here conducted from the fleece, through all the successive processes of sorting, washing, combing, dying, and spin- ning into worsted and yarn, both of finer and coarser qualities. The former is for the hosiery ; and the latter for the carpet manufactory. The worsted finds its prin- cipal markets at Leicester^ HincMey, and Nottingliayn ; and the yam at Kidderminster. THE COTTON WEAVING MANUFACTORY. This was established in 1797? ^nder the firm of Messrs. Parker. Extensive and well-adapted buildings have been erected for the purpose of carrying it on, in large and open grounds, near the Oil Mill Lane. The number of hands employed is about 200. Here, the cot- ton is woven into various articles, as dimities, calicoes, fustians, velveteens, and velverets. The raw material is chiefly procured from Manchester ; and the manufac- tured goods are returned to the same place, as the great mart for sale. the COTTON SPINNING MANUFACTORY. This manufactory was established in the year 1792 at Emscote, about a mile from IP^arwichy but within the precincts of the borough, under the firm of Messrs. 78 TRADE OP, &c. Cotton Spinning T^ice Manufactory/ Navigation Milt. Smart. The works are carried on partly by means of water and partly by that of steam. The number of hands employed is about 50. The raw material is chiefly procured at London and Livejyool : and when spun is sent to Manchester, LACE MANUFACTORY. This manufactory, established in 1810, is carried on under the firm of Nunn, Brown, and Freeman. The lace is made entirely by machinery, for which a patent Avas obtained in 1811 ; and is considered as equal in every valuable quality, to that which is made, in the usual way, by hand. It is of all the various kinds knoAvn by the name of common Bobbin, Mechlin, and Valenciennes lace. It is made both of British and Foreign thread ; and the lace is principally sent to London for the supply of the Aome trade and also for exportation. About 80 hands are employed in this manufactory. NAVIGATION MILL. This is situated near the Navigation Bridge, on the Emscote Road. It was erected in the year 1805, by Messrs. Tomes and Handley. ITie wheel is of that kind wV'ich is called hach-shot, and is turned by the superfluous water, flowing from the JVarwkk and Napton Canal, down a fall of 27 feet, and thence runs into the Avon. This great wheel is of cast iron and excellent construction, which does ( redit to the maker, ]Mr. Roberts, of IFartctch; measuring in diameter 24 feet. The mill is furnished with five jKiir of stones ; three of which are kept con- stantly in motion. The apparatus is, in every part, well constructed : and tlie contrivance is singularly good for loading and unloading. This mill is capable of grinding and dressing, for bread flour, upwards of 300 busliels per dav. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &c. fs Count 1/ Hall. CHAP. YIII. County Hall Court House Market House New Bridge Iron Bridge- Theatre Public Librari/ College Schuol. vJF the principal public buildings of Warwich, as enumerated in a former part of this work, we shall here subjoin a short account reserving, for distinct chapters, that of the County Gaol and County Bridewell. THE COUNTY HALL. This is a spacious and magnificent building, de- signed and finished under the direction of Messrs. J. and H. HiORNE, architects of tVarwick, about the year 17/6'. Its elegant stone front is supported by a range of pillars of the Corinthian order, and the intervals are ornamented with festoons of flowers. On each side of the grand entrance are two niches, intended for the reception of statues ; but these are still unoccupied : and over it, a space is left, apparently designed for some appropriate inscription, which stiil remains a blank. Ascending a flight of stone steps, through large folding doors, is the entrance into a noble room, of lofty elevation and just proportion, which measures 94 feet in length and 30' in breadtb. At each extremitv, in semi-circular rcce-se^, 80 PUBLIC BUILDINGS Court-House. properly fitted up, crowned with handsome cupolas, and surrounded by convenient galleries, are held the two Courts of Justice: one, on the right, for the decision of criminal, and the other for that of civil causes. Between them, is a room, for the accommodation of the senants, and attending officers of the court. Above, is the apart- ment for the occasional retirement of the petty juries : and adjoining to it, is the Grand Jury Chamber. In this great Hall, besides the assizes, the quarter sessions are held ; all county meetings are convened ; and, once a year, at the time of the races, it is converted into a ball- room. The stone floor is then covered by a boarded one ; the circular recesses are fitted up in the manner of card- rooms ; the pillars are encircled with wreaths of lamps ; and the whole solemn appearance of a court of justice is changed into the brilliant and sportive scene of gaiety and fashion. - THE COURT HOUSE. This stately building was erected about 1730, under the direction of John Smith, an architect of considerable celebrity, at the expence of the Corporation. For this, however, under the charge of a misapplication of the public money, they were summoned to appear in the Court of Chancery; and were suspended from the exercise of all their power and privileges : to which they were not restored till the year 1738. It is, indeed, a spacious and handsome edifice ; but not more so, it will now be thought, than suitable to the dignity of such a corporate town as that of ff^arwick. The principal entrance is from Jury- Street. On the ground floor, are two apartments of ample space. In that, on the right hand, the Mayor and Alder- men hold their assemblies. In this room, is a good OF WARWICK. 81 Market- House New Bridge. portrait of Hen. VIII. who, out of the spoils of the ruined monasteries, bestowed upon this town so many valuable benefactions. It is the gift of John Bohun Smyth, Escj. the present Mayor. Opposite is the Court Room, properly fitted up for the purpose of holding the borough sessions. On the second floor, is the principal apartment, which is spacious, well-proportioned, and ele- gantly fitted up measuring 6o feet by 2/. It is furnished with cut-glass chandeliers, large and beautiful. At one extremity is the orchestra; and there is a card-room adjoining. In this great room, annual entertainments are givi*n by the Mayor ; public meetings are convened ; public lectures on philosophical and other subjects occa- sionally delivered ; and here, the winter dancing assem- blies, held monthly, at least till lately, were usually graced with all the beauty and fashion of the county. THE MARKET-HOUSE. This, like all the other public buildings, is sub- stantial and good. The lower and open part is appro- priated to the use of those, who attend the market. The upper apartments are chiefly used for the purpose of storing the arms and accoutrements, belonging to some of the military corps of the county. Fro^m the summit, a bird's-eye-view of the town may be obtained, and a fine prospect of the surrounding country. THE NEW BRIDGE. About the year 1785, the old Gothic Bridge over the Avon, near the Castle, which was narrow and incon- venient, was found, also, to be much out of repair. An Act of Parliament was therefore obtained for the erection of a new one ; and for the alteration, in consequence, of L 82 PUBLIC BUILDINGS Iron Brill <ie, the public road to Daventry and Banhury^ from its former to its present direction. The Bridge consists of one grand arch, forming the segment of a circle, measuring in its span, 105 feet, in its breadth 36, and in its height to the rise of the arch 25. It is built in a chaste style of simple elegance, which does honour to the architect, William Ebboral, a native of Warwich, who died very soon after its completion in 1790. The stone of which it is constructed, was procured, and conveyed in boats, from the Rock Mill near Emscote. The whole expence amounted to ^4,000 ; which was defrayed by the Eurl of Warwick, assisted by the sum of ^1,000 from the Corj^jration. But no inscription records either the date of the erection, the name of the artist, or that of the noble person at whose expence chiefly it was built. In no long time after the finishing of this noble bridge, the old one gave way to the overwhelming force of a great flood ; and it is left, by the taste of its noble owner, in its present niinous state, as a striking addition to the scenery of the vene- rable castle. THE IRON BRIDGE. This light and handsome Bridge, consisting of one arch, which measures in its span 24 feet, was erected in 1804, over the road, cut out of the solid rock, leading from the Market-Place to the Saltsford. It was a pre- sent to the town from one of its members, Charles Mills, Esa. and it would be ungratefiil not to acknow- ledge how much the inhabitants are indebted, on this and many other occasions, to the zeal and liberality, with which that gentleman has ever directed his attention to all that concerns the improvement and the prosj)erity of the place, which he has so long represented in Parliament. OF WARWICK. 83 Theatre Public Library. THEATRE. This building, though small in extent, sufficiently affords all the accommodation required: and, though humble in its external appearance, is neatly and conveni- ently fitted up within. It is always opened, during the week of the races ; and occasionally, at other times. The character of the performers is, in general, nearly the same as that of most of those, who tread the boards of a provincial theatre. But not unfrequently some of the more eminent actors on the British stage have condes- cended to display their talents, on this humbler scene. PUBLIC LIBRARY. This literary institution was first established in the year 1792. It is supported by ;??/(7/ subscription, and the number of its members is now above 100. The pay- ment of two guineas entitles to a share in its property, which is transferable at pleasure. It is placetl under the management of a committee, consisting of seven persons, chosen annually by ballot. The collection of books is now^ considerable, and, upon the whole, well-chosen ; consisting chiefly of works in the various branches of modern literature. The room, in which they are ])laced, situated at the extremity of the Market Place, is not considered as very commodious. But it may be expected that the public spirit, which has lately displayed itself in so many important improvements of the town, will, in due time, be directed to the object of providing a more detached and suitable apartment, not unworthy of being compared Avith others of a similar description, which have been appropriated or erected, in so many towns in various parts of the kingdom. This prevailing and increasing attention to public iii titutions., so iiitiniately (connected L 2 84 PUBLIC BUILDINGS College School. with the general diffusion of knowledge, may be regarded, indeed, as one of the most auspicious circumstances, in the aspect of modern times, in this enlightened and favoured country. COLLEGE SCHOOL. This building, situated in the Butts, is of considerable size and antique appearance. It is built in the form of a quadrangle, encompassing a court, and having a clois- ter, or passage, both on the first and second floor, nearly all round it. It was originally begun by Richard Beau- champ, Earl of IVarivkh, in the reign of Henry VI. and finished by his executors. It was designed for the residence of the Dean and Canons of the ancient Colle- giate Church oj St. Mary's ; and a piece of ground lately given to it by the Earl of fJ^artvicli, is still called the deanery. There is an excellent garden adjoining, sur- rounded by a high wall. The present institution owes its foundation to Henry VHI. ; and its purpose is to provide, free of expence, for the education of all the native chil- dren of the town, who chuse to avail themselves of this advantage. But as the course of instruction, prescribed by the statutes, includes only the learned languages, its utility, as a free school, for the puqioses of general edu- cation, is of course very limited. The salary of the master, who must be a clergyman of the Church of England, was originally fixed at ^20 : but, at subsequent periods, was raised, first to ^40, and next to ^,75. An assistant teacher has also been since appointed, \\ith a salary, first of ^12, afterwards advanced to ^'30. To the^e salaries further additions have been made, by the will of Mr. W. Viner and Mr. T. Oaken. In the year 172^, bv the will of Mr. Pulke Weal, a native of the OF WARWICK. ' 85 College School. town, and one of its great benefactors, two estates were left in trust, the one at Langly and the other at Hampfon- on-the-Hlll ; for the purpose of providing two exhibitions, each of them now of the annual value of ^70, to be given to two young men, natives of the town, towards defraying the expence of their education at Oxford, for the space of seven years. 86 CHARITIES Henry the Eighth's Chord i/. CHAP. IX, Henry the Eighth's Sir Thomas Whiles Oaken's Griffin * Various. JL HE estates and monies appropriated to charitable and other public uses, for the benefit of the town of IFarwick, are very considerable ; of which we now propose to give some account beginning with those which are intended for charitable and other public purposes more generally proceeding, in the following chapter, to those which arc assigned to the specific puq)ose of supporting hospitals schools and alms-houses. HENRY THE EIGHTH'S CHARITY. At the general dissolution of tlie monasteries, in the reign of Henry VIII. several valuable grants were made, by letters patent, to the corporate body of IVarwick. These consist of the rectories of St. Mart/ and St. Nic/to- las, in the borough ; the rectories of Budbrohe in this county, and of Chaddedey in Worcestershire ; and Miriou^. houses and lands belonging to these rectories, amounting in the whole, at this present time, to the annual rental of ^2,335. After the necessary charges are paid, under the various heads of taxes, repairs, and improvements, the remaining sum cjin scarcely fall much ?hort of ^2,000 per annum : out of this large fund, the annual AT WARWICK. f Sir Thomas White s Charity. Stipends are paid to the vicar of St. Mary's and St. Nicho- las', to the assistant Preacher at the former ; to the Vicar of BudbrooJCf to the Master and Usher of the Free School ; to the Clerk and other officers of St. Mary's ; and to the Mayor and other officers of the borough amount- ing in the whole to about ^66o per annum. The remain- ing sum is expended in repairs of the churches and other public buildings ; in the improvement of the town ; in providing relief for the aged and other poor ; and in bind- ing out orphan or indigent children as apprentices. SIR THOMAS white's CHARITY. By an agreement made in 1551, between Sir Ti^OMAS White, Alderman of London, and the Corpo- ration of the city of Coventry, the sum of ^1,400 was laid out in the purchase of lands, part of the possessions of the Pnory lately dissolved, in the neighbourhood of that city. By the same agreement and by subsequent decrees of the Court of Chancery and the House of Lords, four-seventh parts of the nett ])roduce of these lands, is directed to be paid, once in every five years, to the Corporation of IVarwick. ^The share, belonging to this borough, now amounts to ^/',000 ; and a recent lettini^ of the estates has produced so considerable an increase of rental, that the future periodical payments to IVariviclx, will be upwards of ^800. ^Tlie object of this great and growing fund is to assist young tradesmen, " inhabitants, heing of good fame," setting up in business, by the free loan of ^50, on finding good security for nine years. But owing to the smallness of the original sum, compared with the present value of money, the utility of this cha- rity is much circumscribed. The Trustees for the appro- priation of this money are the Corporation. 88 CHARITIES Oa ken's Charily Griffins Chnriti/. OAKEN S CHARITY. Mr. Thomas Oaken, a native of fFarwich, from a low origin, by industry and success in his trade, which was that of a mercer, raised himself to a respectable I'ank, and acquired an affluent fortune. On his death in 1573, he left, vested in certain feoffees, several estates, situated in Warwick^ Badsley, Beausall and Harhury, amounting in the whole to the value of about ^350. Amongst the various pui'poses for which these estates were given, the following annual payments are some ^2 to a schoolmaster to teach poor children ; ^4 to the poor ; 6s. 8d. for a sermon ; 3^. 4d. to the poor, and 20^. for a dinner after it ; 20*. for paving the Market Place ; 5s. towards a bonfire on SL Peter's and St. Johns day ; 3s. 4d. to the herdsman ; 40*. for four ser- mons at St. Mari/s, &c. &c. After the payment of these and some other specified sums, the remainder is to be laid out, first in the repairs of the bridges and highways ; and the surplus, if any, devoted to the relief of the poor, and the improvement of the town. He left also ^100 for the purpose of enlarging the commons, and several pieces of plate, for the use of the Bailiff and Burgesses, who are his feoffees. griffin's charity. A considerable estate, situated partly at the Bridge- End, and partly at Myton, within the limits of the bo- rough, was given, for the benefit of the poor inhabitants, by Mr. R. Griffin, who was a mercer and a principal burgess. The annual value at present falls not much short of ^200. It is distributed in small sums of 10*. or 20*. at the discretion of the trustees, who are usually four respectable tradesmen. AT WARWICK. .89 Charitable Benefactions. VARIOUS CHARITIES. Besides the larger charities, just enumerated, other charitable benefactions remain to be noticed ; which may be arranged under the five following heads for providing food and clothing for the poor for putting out poor children apprentices for buying coals for the use of the poor for the relief of poor widows and for general pur- poses of charity, at the discretion of trustees. Of the par- ticulars referred to under these general heads, an account will be found in the Appendix.* That account is taken from printed tables ; according to which, many years ago, the aggregate amount of these various charitable donations fell little short of ^300. per ann. By additional be- quests, or by improved rents, in the case of houses and lands, the annual amount is, probabiy, at this time, very considerablv more. Appendijf, No. 5. M 90 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. ( fiufie: Scfioot. CHAP. X. ^atitah\t %n^titntion0* Chapel School School of Industry Sunday Schools -Lying- In Charity Okens Alms Houses Iffeler's Alms Houses West Gate Alms Houses ~ Puckering' s Alms Houses Saltsford Alms Houses Yardley's Alms House St. Mary''s Poor House St. Nicholas' Poor House. \JF the various charitable institutions established and supported in IVarwich, for the instruction of friendless ignorance, or for the relief of aged or helpless poverty, we propose to give some account in the present chapter. CHAPKL SCHOOL. In this small but elegant building, besides two commodious school rooms, are apartments for the resi- dence of the master and mistress. The boys, to the number, at present, of 39, are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic ; the girls, in number 36^ are taught read- ing, writing, knitting, and sewing. Of these, 24 boys, and 24 girls, are indebted, for their education, to the charitable bequest of the Honourable Sarah Gr<EViLLE; 12 girls to that of Earl Brooke; 13 boys to that of Mr. V. Oken, and 2 boys to that of Mr. F. Weale. The first 48 of these are clothed in a uniform dress of blue and AT WARWICK. 91 School of Industry. yellow; the 12 girls next mentioned, are clothed in grey; and the 13 succeeding boys receive a coat and a pair of stockings annually. The whole school is invited to par- take of an annual dinner, commonly called Oheris Feast, which usually takes place in the month of September. SCHOOL (5F industry. This excellent institution was established, and is still chiefly supported, under the patronage of the Coun- tess of Warwick, by the benevolent exertions and vo- luntary subscriptions of several Ladies, residing in Warwich^ or its vicinity ; aided by a collection, made after an annual Charity Sermon, at St, Mary's. The object of it is, to provide for the education of poor girls, and to form them to habits of virtuous order and industry. The school- room is situated in Castle-Street ; and is light and airy. It is in the very house, formerly the residence of Mr. Oken, so often mentioned in these pages, as one of tljc great benefactors of the town. The number of girls is usually about 40. They are completely clothed, and wear a uniform dress, consisting of a brown stuff gown, straw bonnet, &c. ; and are provided, at a very small charge, with a dinner, every day, at the school-room, from Michaelmas to Lady-Day. Besides reading, writing, and arithmetic, they are taught sewing of all kinds, knitting stockings, and spinning jersey and flax. Their earnings contribute to the support of the institution. They meet on the Sunday, as well as on other days, for the purpose of receiving religious instructions, and attending together divine service at St. Mary's. Four of the elder girls are employed as monitresses, nearly on the plan, first sug- gested by Dr. Bell, and afterwards adopted, enlarged, and pursued so zealously by Mr. Lancaster. M 2 92 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS Sunday Srfiiiols Lying-in-Clini ily. SUNDAY SCHOOLS. These most useftil and important institutions have received the same general attention, and the same zealous support at PFarivkk, as at so many other places through- out the kingdom ^to the high honor of the present age ; and, as may reasonahly and confidently be expected, to the great and lasting benefit of all future ages. Of these the first mention is due, as first in order of time, to the Sunday School belonging to St. Marys Church, in which about 65 boys and 80 girls are instmcted in reading, and the great principles of religion. In this school the plan of Dr. Bell has been lately adopted with great success. Into a second school, belonging to St. Nicliolas' parish, about 30 boys and 40 girls are admitted A third school, supported by the Presbyterian Dissenters, provides for the instruction of about 30 girls and 30 boys. And a fourth school, belonging to the Independent Dissenters, receives no less than 120 boys and 100 girls ; all of whom are in- structed by the gratuitous services of 39 teachers. Of these thirteen attend in rotation every Sunday. To the eye of enlightened benevolence, what a gratifying spec- tacle ! to see all the different sects, with the national establishment at their head, emulously, yet harmoniously, labouring in this great field of generous exertion, so long neglected, yet so promising of the richest fruits, in the general diffusion of useful knowledge and virtuous princi- ple, amongst the lowest, but largest, and most useful classes of the community. Prosperity to these, and to all simtlcir institutions must surely be the ardent wish of every friend to human virtue and human happiness ! LYING-IN CHARITY. This excellent charity is of very recent institution ; but it has already found much encouraging support from AT WARWICK. 93 O ken's and Iffeler's Alms Houses, that female compassion, in which it originated, and to which it so peculiarly and powerfully recommends it- self. The whole management of it is placed under the direction of a Patroness, and of a committee, consisting of 10 Ladies, chosen annually by ballot. Its object is to provide relief for poor married women, residing within the borough, during the time of confinement at their own houses. Every person applying, with proper recommen- dation, is entitled to the use of a set of child-bed linen for a month ; and receives also a pound of candles, a pound of soap, and, during the winter months, two hun- dred weight of coals. A sufficient supply of caudle is also to be provided, together with proper attendance, and all necessary medical advice. The Patroness is the Lady of the Rev. Henry Wise; there are now about 120 mem- bers, and the subscription amounts to nearly ,^300. oken's alms houses. These houses, intended for the reception of six poor women, were originally situated in Pebble Lane, now New Street, but were destroyed by the great fire. The present houses were, afterwards, erected by the feof- \ fees of the same charity, on the Back Hill, for which the ground was given by Mr. N. Iffe^er. From six, the number is now increased to twelve poor women : each of whom receives 2s. 6d. quarterly, and a black gown once in three years. The feoffees are the members of the Corporation. iffeler's alms houses. Nicholas Iffeler, a native of Westphalia, in Germany, settled in this borough as a glazier, became a principal burgess, and acquired a good fortune. He 94 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS West Gate Alms Houses Fuckrring's Alms Houses. erected an asylum, on the Back Hilt, adjoining Oken's yllms Houses, for the reception of eight poor women ; each of whom receives 2^. \d, quarterly, eight hundred of coals, and a gown annually. * WEST GATE ALMS MOUSES. These were established at the same time with Leicester's Hospital : and the buildings were part of those which once belonged to the two united Guilds of the Trinity and St. George. By whom they were appropriated to their present use does not appear. Into them, eight poor women are received, to each of whom is paid 1^. id. quarterly, out of the estate of Sir Thomas Puckering.^ puckering's alms houses. Of these there arc two, one situated in Coiv Lane^ and the other in Bridewell Lane, both founded by Sir Thomas Puckering: built, as Dugdale expresses it, of fair Ashler stone. They were both intended for the accommo- dation of poor and honest tradesmen ; in order to assist and encourage that industry, on which, as the inscrij>tion [j In the front of these buildings is the following Inscriplion : ' Whereat 3 Almt Hofes ttanding in Pebble Lane in Warwick, which receiird *' 6 poor persons, given hy Mr. Tiiomas-'Oken deceased, vsere burnt by the Dreadful '' Fire upon the bth Day of Septembtr, 1691, these Alms Hmses to receive 1? persons; * were by the chariti/ of the said Thomas Ok en, built upon the ground given by Mf, *' NicH. Iffeler, deceased, to the same charitable office, hy the Feoffees of the said " charity, upon the ?Pt/j day of May, Anno Dom. 1696" Of whom, see in the account of the Priory, where he resided, and where he died. II This Insciiptioii is as follows:- " Domtinciitas hasce Tunvijif Puckeiunc, miles et Barovettus hrncvolo, vtpnte " amici, vicinque in hunr. Butgum afectu motnt. (cuju* mcliorem statiim resqve tecundiores ex animo opttt) sibique in hac parte Etecutorit mtinere fungi optimum rntus, diim ciset *' cetatit adhuc mediar, suis tumptibus in propria funda eitrui curjvit, indnstri.rifue (sine ' qua urbes Burgique marceteunt) exc'tanix, adaugtndaiue perpetue dedicniit. An : " HaLttis, MDCxxxiii." AT WARWICK. 93 Saltsford Alms Ilouset Yardleys Alms Hmiae. imports, the prosperity, not only of individuals, but of whole communities, so much depends. About fifteen years ago the second of these alms houses, standing in Bridewell Lane, were given, in exchange for some lands of equal or superior value, situated within the neighbour- ing parish of Budbrooke. SALTSFORD ALMS HOUSES. These are situated near the remains of the ancient Church of St. Michael, They are four in number ; and are inhabited by eight poor women, to each of whom an allowance of 2*. 6d. is paid quarterly. These alms houses were founded also by Sir Thomas Puckering, out of whose estates the quarterly allowances are paid. yardley's alms house. This house, situated in the Saltsford, was given by Mr. John Yardley, for the use of poor women ; four of whom are received into it. There is a good garden adjoining. The Trustees are the Minister and the Churchwardens of St. Mary's. ST. Mary's poor house. This is situated in the Saltsford. The premises are airy and spacious, properly and commodiously fitted up. On the ground floor, are the apartments inhabited by the Master and Mistress ; a large common room, for the use of the poor inhabitants ; a good school-room, for the children ; and various convenient offices for baking, brewing, washing, and other domestic uses. In the up- per part are the lodging rooms. Behind is a piece of ground used for drying linen ; at the extremity of which are two workshops, one for carding and '^pinning, in which 96 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, &c. St. Mary's and St. Nicholas' Poor Houses. the women arc chiefly employed ; and the other for weav- ing, in which the men are employed. Of their earnings, 2c?. in every shilling is given, to encourage habits of indus- try. The whole house is kept in a state of perfect order and neatness, which does credit to the present Master and Mistress : the table is furnished with sufficient and whole- some food ; a large garden, at a small distance, affords abundant supplies of vegetables ; and, once a year, at Easter, every poor person receives a complete suit of new clothing, plain, but neat and comfortable almost every article of which is the produce of the manufactures, car- ried on M'ithin the house. Tlie children are instructed in reading, and in the principles of religion ; prayers are said in the common room every evening ; and regular at- tendance is required on the public service of the Church on the Sunday. The number of poor inhabitants seldom exceeds 6o, and does not often fall much short of 30. The whole ex])ence is paid out of the parish rates. ST. NICHOLAS' POOR HOUSE. This occupies a very airy situation at the extremity of the Coton End, and has a large and productive garden adjoining. The number of its inhabitants seldom exceeds 20 or 30; and these principally consist of women and children. They are chiefly employed in spinning. Good provision, in sufficient quantities is provided ; and every article of necessary clothing is furnished, when wanted The whole expence is paid out of the parish rates. LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 97 Present edifice anciently the mansion of two united Guilds. CHAP. XI. Eeicejrtee'jef ^o^sfpital. The preient edifice anciently the mansion of two united Guilds granted, at the general dissolution, to Sir N. Le Strange appropriated and endowed by Dudley Earl itf Leicester, /or the purpose of a Hospital Appointment of' a Master number of members qualifications for admis- sion regulations great increase in the value of its endowments new Act of Parliament in consequence provision made for the reception of additional members, and increase of the Master s salary present state of the buildings and of the chapel. xSESIDES the various charitable institutions, already noticed, an account still remains to be given of Leicester's Hospital, one of the first in magnitude and growing importance ; which is reseiTed, therefore, for the subject of a distinct chapter. This very ancient building, situated at the wes- tern extremity of High- St reef, appears to have been originally the hall or mansion, belonging to the two united guilds, or lay fraternities, of the Holit/ Trinity and St. George. These were established in the reign of Rich. II. ; the former by William Hobkins, John Cooke, and eleven others, all inhabitants of Warwick; the latter by John de Dynelay and two others, also of Warwick. They had power to purchase estates ; to re- ceive other brethren into their fraternity ; and to build and found a chantry in the chapel, which stood over the 98 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. Appointment of Alas'ir number of' H'cthren F,iidoumenls. JVest Gate. The union of the two Guilds, certainly took place before the 10th of Hen. VI.; though the precise period is not known : and in the reign of Hen. VIII. it appears, there were four priests, belonging to this frater- nity ; of whom two were employed to celebrate mass in St. Marys Churcli, a third in the chapel of St. Peter, and a fourth in their own chapel of St. James. In th latter reign, when so many other religious institutions were dissolved, the united Guilds shared in the general fate; and, in the year 1551, their mansion was granted by Edw. VI. to Sir Nicholas Le Strange, Knight, and his heirs. But in the succeeding reign, it became the property of Rodert Dudley, Earl of Leicester whether by purchase or otherwise does not appear by whom it was converted into an asylum or hospital^ for the reception of twelve indigent men, who are called brethren, together with a master who must be a clergyman of the church of England ; and, in preference to all others, if he offers himself, the vicar of St. Marys. Tlie land, with which it is endowed, was at that time valued at ^200. per ann. but the clear annual value at present falls little short of ^2,000. The vicarage of Hampton-in-Arden is in the gift of the brethren, who have hitherto usually bestowed it upon the master. The appointment of the master and of the bie thren is vested in the heirs general of the noble founder, who is, at this time, John Shelly Sydney, Esq. of Penshurst Place, in tlie county of Kent. In filling up the vacancies, as they occur, natives, or inhabitants for five years at least, of U^arwickshire and Gloucestershire. alone are eligible; and of these the priority of choice nmst fall upon such as are natives or inhabitants of the LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. ^9 Qualifications for Admission Internal regulations. S .III II I 1 five following places, each taken successively in the fol- lowing order fVarwich, Kenilworth, Stratford-on-Avon, IVooton-under-Edge, and Arlingham. In all cases the preference must be given to those, if any, who have been wounded or maimed in the seiTice of their country. Every candidate must be in such circumstances of indi- gence as not to possess more than the value of ^5 a year ; and he must, also, produce a written testimonial to his character from the minister and churchwardens' of th parish, where he last resided. On their admission, all the members are required to wear an a]>propriate dress, con- sisting of a blue gown, with the crest of a bear and ragged staff' fastened to the left sleeve : and, without this badge of distinction, they are forbidden to appear in public. ^The whole institution is placed under the control of the Bishop, the Dean, and the Archdeacon of Worcester, who are the appointed visitors, and of the Recorders of IFarwich and Coventry. Such were the regulations, established by the founder of Leicester's Hospital ; and these continued un- altered, till the year 181.3; when, on the a])plication of the Heir General, some important and beneficial changes were introduced by Act of Parliament. It had long been known that the clear annual rental of its estate greatly exceeded all that could be required for tbe comfortable support of the number of the brethren, hitherto admitted into the hospital. It had also been remarked, with regret, that the salary of the master, unalterably fixed, by the statutes of the founder, at ^bO yer annum, v/as, for a person of the rank of a clergyman, a very inadequate provision ; though, as the original value of the estate was ^200 a-vear, it was the evident intention to give one- 100 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. Increase of the Muster's Salury and of the number of Brethren. fourth of the rental, whatever might be its amount, to the master. But the introduction of the words ^^ fifty 'pounds"' defeated the intention ; and, according to the rules of law, left the master without the possibility of the smallest increase of income, however necessary to support the dignity of his station. To advance, therefore, the salary of the master, and to increase the number of the bre- thren, were the two great objects proposed by the ncAV act. From the statement, laid before Parliament, it ap- pears that, after the payment of certain sums, under the head of taxes, coals, candles, kitchen expences, repairs of the hospital, and wages of the nurse, the brethren received about ^130 a year each. With a humane and generous regard to the interests of the prfesent brethren, the act leaves them in the undisturbed possession of this large annual income ; but provides, on the admission of every new member, as vacancies occur, by death or otherwise, that the annual income of every such new member shall not exceed ^80 ; and that the surplus, being about ^50 per annum, shall be appropriated, one moiety to the gra- dual increase of the master's salary, till it amounts to ^400 per annum ; and the other moiety to the formation of a fiind for the support of additional members, who are to be admitted in succession, till the number of the whole is increased to twenty-two. The qualification of property, also, before fixed at ^5 per annum, is now very properly changed to ^50, being not more than a due proportion to the decreased value of money, and the increased pre- sent rental. After having provided for the establishment of these new and most important regulations, the act re- cites all the original statutes and ordinances of the foun- der, and declares them to be in force, and to continue so, ivithout any abatement or variation whatever. LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. iM Present State of the EdiJ'ue. The buildings of Leicester's Hospital, thongh rery ancient, as already mentioned, are still kept in good repair. They form a complete quadrangle, enclosing ^ court of considerable space, having a cloister or passage round two of its sides. Entering into this court, under a gate-way, the house, appropriated to the master, appears in front. This is spacious and good ; and, behind, is a large garden. On the right, are the stairs, leading to the lodgings of the Brethren ; each of whom has a sepa- rate and convenient apartment : besides which there is a large kitchen for common use. On the left, is the great hall, once the scene of splendid and even royal festivities ; which still retains striking marks of its ancient grandeur. It is, however, by the new Act of Parliament, soon to be converted to the humbler and more useful purpose of fur-? nishing suitable apartments for the ten additional mem- bers. It measures 90 feet by 24 ; but, probably, once extended at each extremity much farther. There is an inscription, still preserved on one of its walls, importing that, in this hall, James I. was entertained in a manner becoming his high dignity, by Sir Fulk Greville, Chancellor of the Exchequer, Sept. 4, 1617. Adjoining to Leicester's Hospital, and belonging to it, is *S'^. James' Chapel. This was given by Roger de Newburg, in the reign of Hen. I. to the church of St. Mary, when it was made collegiate. It afterwards fell into disuse and decay. But in the reign of Rich. II. the advowson of it was granted* to the guild o^ St. George, by Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwich, who built In tliis grant it is called the Church "J St. James; but afier-.vards tlie original appellation of Chapel was resumed. 102 LEICESTEirS HOSPITAL. St. James' Chapel, ^ the present chapel, or at least the tower of it. After the general dissolution, this Chapel, together with the Hall, and the other huildings, passed into the possession of Sir Nicholas Le Strange, and finally into that of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, hy whom it was assigned to its present use. It is small, but well-proportioned and beautiful ; handsomely fitted up, and kept in the most perfect order, for the use of the brethren, the master, and his family, who daily assemble here for morning and evening prayer, except on those days when service is performed at Sf. Marys, where their attendance is then required. Round it, are hung the statutes of the Founder, which are ap- pointed to be publicly read once every year; and, also, on the admission of every new member. At the eastern extremity is the Communion Table ; over which is a good picture of the Ascension, painted by Millar, a jmpil of Sir Joshua Reynolds, and an artist of considerable talent and reputation. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 103 Founded prior to the Conquest made Collegiate bj/ H. de ]S!e/rburg. CHAP. XII. ,;&t. iatarp jS Cljutcfj. Earli/ histort/ destruction hif the great fire re-erection the tower the interior monuments in the north and south transepts ri mains of the second Thomas Beuuchump's monument the choir grand monument of the first Thomas Beauchamp other monuments the lobby the chapter- house monument of Fulk Lord Brooke the veslrj/-room. \JF the original foundation of St. Mary's Ckurch, there is no remaining account. It existed prior to the Norman conquest : since it is mentioned in Doomsday Book, as having one hide of land belonging to it, which was given by Turchill, the last of the Saxon Earls. Tlie design of making it collegiate, with a dean and secu- lar canons, was formed by Henry de Newburg, first Earl of the Norman Line ; and it was afterwards carried into execution by his son Roger, the second Earl of the same line. This took place in 1123, the 23d of Hen. I. when the other churches were united to it. During the reign of Edward HI. the present choir was founded by the first Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of PTarwick ; and, in 139-1, tlie whole body of the Church was rebuilt by his second son, Thomas, who, on the death of his eldest brother succeeded to the Earldom. In the same reign, by an ecclesiastical decree, as already men- tioned, divine service was discontinued in the other 104 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. Supposed ancient relics Destruction by Fire. churches ; and all the inhabitants were ordered to repair for their devotions to this church, and that of St. Nicho- las only. Of valuable relics, as they were esteemed, in the days of superstition, few religious edifices possessed more than St. Marys. Amongst many others were the follow- ing ^part of the chair of the patriarch Abraham part of the burning bush of Moses part of the hair of the Blessed Virgin ^part of the manger in which the infant Jesus was laid part of the pillar to which he was fas- tened, when scourged part of his crown of thorns part of his cross part of the towel in which his body was wrapt by Nicodemus part of the hair of Mary Mag- dalen part of the face of Stephen.* It has been already mentioned that, at the general dissolution, this Church, together with that of St. Nicho- las, was granted, by letters patent, bearing date May 15, 1546, to the inhabitants of Warwick, and their succes- sors. It was then valued at ^333 2*. 4d. Out of this sum, were paid the stipends of the several officers, em- ployed in the celebration of divine service ; which then consisted of a dean, six canons, ten priests, and six choristers. In 1694 great part of the Church was destroyed by the dreadful fire, so often mentioned in the couise of this work. Though the progress of the devouring flames was sto]j]ird before they reached this noble edifice ; yet uiib;jpjjily the fire was communicated, by means of some V. Dugdalb's Watw. org. E. p. 3')6. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 105 lie-erection after a design of Sir C. Wren. half-burnt goods inadvertently deposited within it, as a place of safety. Most fortunately, the venerable choir, and the exquisitely beautiful chapel, on the south side, together with the chapter-house, the lobby, and the vestry- room, on the north, escaped uninjured. The erection of the new portion of this edifice, as it now appears, was completed in the year 1 704 ; and the expence defrayed partly by royal bounty, but chiefly by public liberality. The architecture is a singular, and in- deed absurd mixture of different modes ; and yet the design of it is attributed to no less a person than Sir Christopher Wren. It is well known, however, that most of the walls in the body of the church were, after the fire, left standing ; and that these were repaired, and the tower erected, by John Smith, an architect of some note at Warwick. But whether the plan, he adopted, Avas, in whole, or in part, the work of that consummate master of his art, just mentioned, one would be stronglv inclined to doubt.* Certain, at least, it is, that the utter incon- sistency of the newly erected with the old remaining part ;^ that the strange violation of all architectural rule in the formation of the great windows, with their double row of cumbrous Saxon arches, terminated above by such grotesque and barbarous forms as were never before * The facf, however, must not be concealed, that in the Library of Ail Saints <}llege, Oxford, amongst the archiiectural drawings and designs of Sir C. Wren, is the design of Warwick Church, What will be said to liie following account of Mr. Gilpin ? " 'i'lie Church is " an elegant GoUiic structure. A considerable part of it was lately dtsiroved : but it "is rebuilt with great symmetry." North. Tour, v. i. p. ."37. Surely so scciiiate an f>b. server and so excellent a judge could not have seen whiit he pretended to dcstiibe; or else, v))at he had seen, he must afterwards have totally forgotten ! Never were jli'ce worO.s elegant go'Jiic symmetry so strangely misused, O io6 ST. Mx\RY'S CHURCH. I'rincipal Kutrame Inti /'.). seen ; and that the jumbling mixture of round and pointed arches in the tower, discover little of that taste and judgment, which usually display themselves in the other works of one of the first and greatest of British architects.* But notwithstanding these great faults, upon the whole, St. Mary's Church presents the appearance of a handsome and stately pile. The tower in particular is finely proportioned : and, from a base of 36 feet square, rises to the lofty height of 130 feet, with uncommon beauty and grace. It is built on four groined arches ; and contains within it ten bells and chimes. Those, whose curiosity may lead them to ascend to the summit of this tower, while the bells are ringing, will perceive in the Mirprising degree of vibratory motion, communicated to the whole body of it, a proof of its true and excellent workmanship. INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH. Under the tower is the princi])al entrance into the interior of the church ; and from this point, the view down the middle aisle, through the chancel, terminated by the east window, is strikingly grand. The whole length is 186 feet: and the breadth, measured along the transept, 106 feet. * It is wel! known ilint Sir C. \Vi!Em enter(ained strong prejudices against llie ancient eccKsiusiicai arciiiicctiire (>f this country. In liis admirniioii of ilie regular jtpiponions and exquisite synimelry of the classical buildingi of antiquity, lie was ltd to despiiC the buhl and grand irregularities of the ancient English s'vle; by hiiii, first, named Gothic, an epitliet, intendtd to convey ideas of ignorance and barbarism. Tliut Sir C. Wren did not well undoistand this ityle of buildi p, is evident, amongst Oilier instances, from the incongtuuui manner, in which lie liniiihed (he towers of iyatmliisier Abbev. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 107 Middle Aisle Monuments in the North Transept. At the entrance of the middle aisle, is the baptis- mal font, of marble ; and above, is a loft, containing the large and excellent Organ, built by Swarebrick, and lately removed from the eastern extremity : by which judicious alteration, the fine view just mentioned, down the "long drawn aisle" is left uninternipted and uninjured. The galleries are spacious and regular, and the whole interior is commodiously and handsomely fitted up. One arrangement deserves notice, as remoA^ing a serious in- convenience, frequently complained of, in attending pla- ces of worship, during wet or wintry seasons. At the four extremities of the principal aisle, four large stoves are placed, concealed under the form of urns, standing on pedestals. The monuments in the body of the church, are chiefly to be seen in the north and south transepts. They are not very numerous, nor, with one or two exceptions, very remarkable ; as might, indeed, be expected, Avhen it is remembered that all the ancient monuments were destroyed by the great fire, of which few have been re- placed by others. In the north transept are the six following marble monuments, each with a Latin inscription one, to the memorv of John Gibbon, of a good family, in Stafford- shire, 1693, another to the memory of Will. Johnson, Physician, of JVarwlclx, and Anne, his wife, who bequeathed all her estates to charitable uses 1 "J '3^ a third, to the memo- ry of Francis Charrocke, of an ancient and honorable family in Bedfordshire, 1727, a fourth, remarkable for its quaintness, to the memory of Franc is Holyoak, and several of his family, 1730; sonrj of wlioni were consi- o 2 108 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. Monuments in the South 'J'runsept. derable scholars; and one of whbm was master of Ritghy School, for the long space of 43 years a fifth, to the memory of Thos. Hewitt, 1 735, prepared by hhnself, ju- dicious and impressive in its topics ; and, for its latinity, one of the best, though not quite faultless and a sixth, to the ancient family of Staunton of Longhridge, within the precincts of the borough 177^- ^^ this transept is, also, a marble monument to the memory of George and Mary Webp, 1743: and another, more remarkable than all for its singularity, and its antiquity, to the memory of Thomas and Joan Oken, with their portraitures in brass, 1573.* To this monument, damaged by the fire, a marble tablet has been added by his feoffees, with a long inscription, commemorating the private worth, the public honors, and the charitable bequests^ of that distinguished benefactor of his native town. In the south transept, are three marble monuments, one, with a Latin inscription, to the memory of Will. ViNER, the honored and faithful steward, for 40 years, of the celebrated Fulk Lord Brooke, 1639, the se- cond, also, with a Latin inscription, to the memory of John Norton, deputy recorder of IVaricick ; and several of his family, 1709 and the third, with an English in- scription, to the memory of Henry Beaufoy, Esq. of Edmonscott, in this county ; one of whose daughters was married to Sir Samuel (iarth, distinguished as a poet of some eminence; and, still more, as an enlightened, an active and benevolent physician. The two last were erected in the place of others destroyed by the fire. Thk. ifi'cripiioii \% as follows, ' Of your cliaryte give thanks for llie joule* of " TuowAS Okf.n o;i(J Jove liis Wylf; on wliose souls Jesus has mercv ; Jtsus has iniic^ Amen Reneuil;er ihe charjie of the poor for ever, mdlxxiii.' ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 109 Monument of tite Second Tltoma& Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. But in this transept, are to be seen the small remains of a most splendid monument, which will attract particular attention. It was erected to the memory of Thos. Beau- champ, second Earl of that name, and Margaret Ferrers, his wife, daughter of Lord Ferrers. The original monument,* which stood near the present, was an altar tomb, surmounted with a rich canopy, forming a half subast arch, adorned with the arms of Beauchamp and Ferrers. The long, pompous, and wretchedly af- fected Latin inscription, put up by the Parliamentary Commissioners, in l/O^j is a perfect contrast to the con- ciseness and simplicity of the ancient, Avhich, also in Latin, may be thus translated " Here lies Thomas " Beauchamp, Earl of IVarwich, who died Ap. 8, 1401, "and Margaret his wife, who died Jan. 22, 1409. God *' be merciful to their souls!" The present monument consists only of the brass plate, which was taken out of the ashes after the great fire, and fixed against the east wall. On it are two effigies. One represents the Earl in plated armour, with a mail gorget, wearing a helmet, with a fronton of square studds. On his armour are two armorial bearings ; at his side, are a sword and dagger ; and at his feet, is a bear lying. The other represents his lady, wearing a kirtle, with long mitten sleeves, charged with her family arms, and a mantle, on which are those of her husband. Her hair is bound with a fillet ; and at her left foot, is a dog, looking up. Upon the upper border of the plate, were * A Print of it may be seen in Duodale's Warw.'. and in Couch's Dacrip- tion ef the Beauchamp Chapel. i See an exact representation of it in Gounn's Description, <Jc. no ST. MARY'S CHURCH. The Choir. the arms of Beauchamp, impaling those of Ferrer's, surmounted by the crest, a bear collared, chained, and muzzled, rampant, against a ragged staff. But this last has been removed, to make way for the gallery, lately erected above. On one side of the plate, is the arms *' Chequ^ Or and Az, a chevron," single ; and, on the other side, the same quartering A. On the lower border is a bear, collared, chained, gradient. Under all are the Beauchamp arms, single. This Earl* is the second, but eldest surviving son of Thomas Beauchamp, whose monument occupies the center of the Choir ; and the father of Richard Beau- champ, whose monument stands in the Ladi/s Chapel affording two of the finest specimens of sepulchral sculp- ture in the kingdom. the choir. Ascending three steps, through handsome portals of iron, is the entrance into The Choir. This, as already mentioned, is a part of the ancient church, which escaped the destnictive fire of iGQ4 ; and it remains, a noble specimen of all that characteristic grandeur and beauty which marked what is called the gothic, or, more propeilv, the pointed architecture, prevalent in the fourteenth and two following centuries. Scarcely can even the most insensible spectator here enter, and look around, without feelings of awe, mingled with delight. There are four floors, ascending one step above another, towards the altar. On each side, are two ranges of stalls, in four divisions. The roof will particularly arrest attention. It * See an account of liim, p. 31. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. ill 'I I I I I III! .1 _ Monume it of the First Thomas Beuuchamp, Earl of Watzcick. is of stone, lofty in elevation; and, at once, novel and pleasing in design. The intervals between the ribs, that branch fi'om the pillars towards the center, are left unfil- led; and thus a kind of open work is formed, of which the effect is singularly striking. The arms of the founder, impaled with those of his wife are here seen, richly canned and surrounded with seraphim. There are four windows of four days, on each side. These were formerly enrich- ed with painted glass, exhibiting the portraits and the arms of the Beauchamp family, which have lons^ since disappeared.* The east window is large and grand ; but the fine effect of it is greatly impaired by the painted glass with which it is disgraced ; representing, indeed, various subjects of sacred history, baton a scale so diminu- tive, that even the more prominent figures can scarcely be distinguished at the distance, whence they must neces- sarily be seen. The altar, itself, is also modern and mean, utterly inappropriate to the venerable antiquity and grandeur of the structure, in which it is placed. In the middle of the Choir, lie buried, its founder, Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of lFarwich,\\ and his wife Lady Catherine Mortimer, under a massive tomb, of the altar kind, formed of composition of plaister, and surrounded with a cornice, which is also composition, in beautiful imitation of marble ; the ground grey, with yel- * Engravings of all these may be seen in Ducdale's Warw, It is much to be wislied that, availing tlieraselve* of liie talents of such artists, as Mr. Lowe, oi Handsworth, or Rlr. RAriiAF.L Egginton, of Birminghnm, the Corporation wouLI employ a part of their aniule funds in procuring a new east win- dow, adapted to the peculiar lUdgnificence oi tiie Charted, and the gt-inral solemnity of the whole adjoining edifice. jj Sek an account of this EatI; p. 5o. 112 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. Monuintnt rf the First 'I'hamus Henuchamp, Earl of Warwick. ]ow and white stripes. The whole monument is pro nounced, by that distinguished antiqaaiy Mr. Gough, to be one of the most elegant and beautiful of its kind, in the kingdom ; and has suffered much less, as he remarks, from the injuries of time and accident, than might have been expected. On the slab, are placed two white marble statues, of the Earl and his Countess, finely executed, in recumbent postures, the heads resting on pillars, a female watching at each, a lamb lying at the feet of one, and a bear at those of the other. The Earl's figure is habited in armour, with a gorget of mail, wearing a pointed hel- met, studded round, except in the front. The inside of the upper half of the sleeve is mail ; the outside plated armour. His armorial bearings are painted on his breast and waist. His left hand, covered with a gauntlet, rests on his sword ; his right uncovered, clasps the right hand of his consort, whose left hand is on her breast a pleasing emblematical representation of fond and faithful affection. She is dressed in a mantle and petticoat, with sleeves below her wrists buttoned : and the lacing of her close gown, extends below her girdle, like Queen Phillippa's in JVcstminster Abhey. Her head-dress is reticulated. Round the sides and ends of this tomb, are thirty-six figures, male and female, alternately ; representing, ac- cording to Mr. Gough,* the relations of the Earl. Under them are coats of arms, of which the bearings are defaced. Of the remaining monuments within the choir, one near the altar, is very desening of notice. It is of highly- polished ala])aster, supported by Corinthian pillars ; with a Latin inscription, long and cumbersome, to the memory Sfe liis dcjcripiion of each. App. No. 6. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 113 Monuments in the Chancel. of Sir Thomas Puckering, Knt. and Bart* youngest but only surviving son of John Puckering, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, who lived at the Priori/, and died there, March 20, 1636. Below this, on a flat stone, are affixed three brass plates, inscribed to the memory of Cisseley, second daughter of Sir Thomas ; the first simply recording her parentage and early death ; the second containing an anagram on her name ; and the third an epitaph in verse ; of which the last is written quaintly, and the second, not quite consistently with rule. On the south side, fixed to a slab of marble, is a rhyming epitaph, to the memory of Elizabeth Chow, 1597 : and on the same side, are two elegai^it modern tablets, one to the memory of William and Mary HiORNE ; the other to that of Francis Hiorne, of ffljr- ivicJi, an architect of considerable merit, amongst whose various works, the church of Tetbury, in Gloucestershire, and that of Stony Stratford, in Buchinghamshire, are particularly admired. On the floor, also, are many other memorials of the dead, little remarkable : and underneath it, is a capacious vault, commonly called the bone house, chiefly used as a burial place for the mayors, and other, members of the body corporate. Within the choir, were buried, William Parr, Marquis of Northampton, brother of Queen Catherine Parr, and John Rous, the celebrated antiquary of Gm/s Cliff\ But of these, all memorials have perished ; as also of some other distinguished persons, who were interred * S'-e some p.oiice of Iiiin in the Account of the P\i"ii. P 114 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. Monuments in the Lobby. either here, or within the body of the church, Dean B'Erke9We:ll and Allstree, executors to Earl Richard^ under whose directiont the Lady's Chapei was built; Dean Hasely, schoolmaster to Henry VH.; and Thomas Cartwright, first master of Leicester's Hospital. North of the choir, is an ancient and substantial building, formerly belonging to the religious fraternity of deans and canons, first established here in the reign of Henry H. It consists of three distinct apartments, the lobby, the chapter house, and the library or vestry room. THE lobby. Ttiis apartment, nearest to the body of the church, is now chiefly used as an engine house But here is to be seen a monumental tablet, well deser\dng a more conspi- cuous situation. It is of marble, charged with an inscrip- tion, pleasingly and not inelegantly written in Latin, to the memory of FRANcrs Parker, who served in the several capacities of tutor, secretary, and steward, to Lords Fran- cis, Robert, and Fulke Brooke, for the long space of 45 years, and died Nov. 10, 1693. By an ancestor of the present Earl, this handsome monument was erected, in the spirit of grateful and respectful regard, to the memory of an old and faithful servant : and in the same J^pirit, the present Earl has erected near it, a sepulchral tablet of marble, to the memory of one of his own domestics, John Bayley, who after a long course of honest and active service, ended a worthy and useful life, Sept. 15, 1792. chapter-house. This second, or middle apartment, is of an octago- nal form, and was originally the place, as its name imports, where the dean and canons held their assemblies. The ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 115 Chupler- House Monument of Lord Brooke Vestry. seats around it still remain. But, in the reign of James I. it was converted by Fulke Lord Brooke, into a mausoleum for himself and his family. The vast, heavy, but sumptuous monument, to be seen here, was erected by himself, in his life-time. It is of black and white marble. The design is a sarcophagus, placed under a sort of massy canopy, doubly arched, supported by Corinthian pillars, and surmounted by pyramidical ornaments. In large let- ters, running round the cornice, is the following inscription, remarkable at once, for simplicity, conciseness, and dignity. "Fulke Grevil, servant to Queen Elizabeth, counsellor to King James, and friend to Sir Philip Sidney." The "words Trophoeum Peccati are seen on the other side. There is no date of time. Hanging over the tomb appear pennons, banners, helmets^ and pieces of armour^ agreeably to the custom, derived from remotest antiquity, of depo- siting in sacred places, as a sort of religious acknowledg- ment, the weapons of defence, and the trophies of victory. VESTRY ROOM. This is supposed -to have been the library belonging to the monastery, in which a collection of old books, some of them very valuable, is still preserved.* Under the room is a spacious apartment, known by the name of the Friars Mtchen, and now used as a burial place for the noble family of Warwick. Above is a large, light, airy room, appropriated to the use of a Sunday School, where, of both sexes, scholars to the number of about 6o, usually assemble ; and where many more might be conveniently accommodated. * Tt may be wort'i while tn mention tlint, amongst iIipsp, is to be found RoberteUtu^ Edition nf Aristotk's PecUcs, which ij now very scarce, P 2 li6 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. Vicars since the Revolution, The presentation to this vicarage is vested in the Lord Chancellor. Vicars since the Revolution. Rev. William Edes, 1702 Moses Hodges, D. D 1707 ^ William Greenwood, D.D.*. . 1724 Edward Tart, D. D 1739 Charles Bean, 1750 John Coles, M. A 1766 Marmaduke Mathews, M. A.* 1778 R. P. Packwood, M. a 1810 ^ * Of these Divine?, see a short notice at the end of Chap. XIV. ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. uf Entrance Interior. CHAP. XIII. Entrance interior altar-piece great east window monument of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester of Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick of Robert, his infant son and of Lady Catherine Lewison supposed Library of Rous the chantry the confessional zoest room exterior of the Chapel. Jc ROM the south transept of St. Mary's Church, is the principal entrance into the Ladifs Chapel. This is formed by a grand frontispiece, in the gothic style, desi2;n- ed and finished in the common sand stone of IVarwick, by a poor mason of the town, in 1704; whose name, it is discreditable to say, is no where recorded, nor even re- membered. INTERIOR. Descending a flight of stone steps, through fold- ing doors, opens, to the astonished and delighted gaze, the interior of this beautiful and magnificent structure, justly projiounced to be one of the finest specimens of gothic arcliitecture in the kingdom ; or even, as some good judges have said, in Europe. It is in that pointed style of the middle order, which is considered by some as the most perfect ; and which chiefly prevailed at the time in which it was buih. It was begun in 1443, according to the di- 118 ST. MARY*S CHAPEL. I)iterior. rection of the will of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of IVarwich, by his executors, Lords Cromwell, and Tip- toff; John Throckmorton, Richard Curson, Thomas HuGGEFORD, WiLLiAM Berkeswell, pHest, and Nicho- las RoDY, his steward. It was not finished till 1464, twenty-one years after its commencement; and cost, in- cluding the Earl's monument, ^2481, equal at present to ^40,000.* Proceeding through the entrance on each side appear, the ranges of stalls, in four divisions. The seats have on their backs, twelve blank shields, in quatre foils. On the edges of the eastern seats, are a lion, a griffin, a bear muzzled and collared ; on the western, a lion, griffin, bear and lion ; and on the northern, a griffin, lion, bear. The knobs on the sides of the stalls have ragged staves, an angel holding arms cheque a chevron Erm, a griffin collared and chained, a bear and staff, staves, acorns, &g. The floors are of black and white marble, four in number, of unequal sizes, ascending one step above another towards the altar. The ceiling is of stone richly carved, ornamented with shields, charged with the arms of the old Earls of Warwick single, and those of Warivick and Beauchamp quartered ; but is greatly injured, in its effect, by the gaudy colouring of the painter. There are three windows on each side, of six days. Under the south win- dows are seven flat niches, of which the upper half is tracery, divided from the lower half by an embattled fascia, and vmder the north windows are five niches. AccoRDiKG to ilic calculation of the iiitellijjcut and ingriiioiis travelltT/ Mr. Wahner. i^orthtm Tour. Vol. 2. p, 265. ST. MARTS CHAPEL. li^ i" ^ ^ I I , Altar-Piect Great East Window. On each side the haut-pas, or highest step towards the altar, is a desk furnished with two steps. The altar- piece is a fine bas-relief of The Saluiafionj modern, design- ed by LiGHTOLER, and executed by Collins. It is placed under a gothic canopy, between two shrines, of which the appearance is httle in harmony with that of the surround- ing structure. Raised high against the wall, on each side the altar, is a shrine, highly and elegantly wrought, though injured by the daubings of the painter ; in which, according to Dugdale, were formerly placed two images of pure gold, each of 20lb. weight. On each side of the west entrance, is a beautiful slender niche : and over the door, is an intended organ loft, of which the front, is ornamented with shields in quatre foils, with a rich fascia of vine-leaves and grapes, and another of roses above it. In the centre of both are the arms of Beauchamp, quartering chequf^ or and az, a chevron Erm, being the arms of the old Earls of IVar- ivick ; and on a shield of pretence, the arms of Fitzwalter quartering those of Despenser : the whole is supported by an angel. On each side the door is a fascia of great and small oak leaves, in which are introduced a rose, a griffin, flowers, lion, horse, two bears supporting a shield, two ragged staves and a vine branch. It cannot be sufficiently regretted that the window over this entrance is glazed >vith modern sash square, and is, in every respect, discord- ant with the architecture of the ChapeL The great eastern window, over the altar, still in a good state of presen ation, is composed of two mould- ings, surrounding a central compartment, divided into three days of two stories ; the whole of whicli is filled with 120 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. Monument of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. painted glass, representing numerous figures, coats of arms, and various devices, with names and broken sentences in- terspersed. Of these a minute account is given by Mr. GouGH, from which an extract will be found in the Ap- pendix.* In the north and south windows, there is no paint- ed glass except in the tracery ; and these are damaged and indistinct. The figures appear, however, to have been angels, playing on musical instruments. Those in the centre of the north window, robed and playing on musical instmmcnts, are peculiarly fine. Broken sentences and musical instmments are interspersed. Having attempted some account of this small but most beautiful chapel we proceed to describe the stately and elegant monument of its founder. Rich. Beauchamp ; for the reception of which it was expressly designed. This is an altar tomb of grey marble, placed near the centre of the chapel. On the slab lies the figure of the Earl, in brass gilt, large as life, and inferior to none in England, except that of Hen. VH. in IVestminster Abbei/. It is placed on a table of the same metal, and is protected by a herse of brass hoops gilt. The hair is short and curled ; and the head rests on a helmet, encircled with a coronet. The hands are elevated, but not joined. The body is clad in jdate armour, and the sword hangs at the left side. At the feet are a griffin and a bear muzzled, both sitting. At the extremities of the poles of the herse, are enamelled shields, j)endant from oak leaves, in starred quatre foils. Four of these shields, at each cud, have the Beauchamp Arms ((uaitered wiih those of the old Earls ; A|.j)cmJix, No. 7. ST MARY'S CHAPEL. 121 Monument of Richard beaucfiamp. Earl of Warwuk. and a shield of pretence, charged with three chevronels, and a fret quarterly, the last of which is the Despensefs arms. At the eastern extremity of the middle pole, are the arms of England and France ; and at the western, St. Georges Cross. x The niches, or housings, which surround this tomb, are exceedingly rich and beautiful. They are fourteen in number; and in them are'placed elegant statues, in copper gilt, male and female, all of them representing noble per- sonages, and relations of the founder.* Underneath are their coats of arms, enamelled on shields, in starred quatre foils. They are divided by smaller niches, in which are whole length figures of angels, holding scrolls, supported on perks. On the scrolls are inscribed '^^sit Deo laus et gloria : defunctis misericordia." The inscription in old English, comprised in two lines, is let into the upper ledge of the tomb, and is whim- sically interspersed throughout, with the bear and ragged staffi which occurs not less than 40 times. It imports that "Richard, Earl of IVarwich, after a long illness, died at the castle of Rouen, in Normandy, where he resided as Lieutenant-General of France, during the minority of Henry VI. ; that his body, deposited in a stone coffin, was brought over to England, and conveyed with funeral pomp to PVarwick ; that it was placed near the monument of his father, till the chapel was finished ; and that, finally, it was interred beneath the tomb prepared for it, according to the direction of his will, 1460.J * See Appendix, No. 8. X See Ihc llittorj of tliis Er1, p. 3C. 122 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. Monument cf Hubert Dudlei^, Earl of f.eices'er. About the middle of the 17th century, the floor of the chapel fell in ; when Earl Richard's coffin, beinj? either accidentally broken, or pnrposely unclosed, the body was fonnd perfect and fresh : but on letting; in the air, it raj)i(ily fell to decay. The Ladies of fVarimk had ring:* and other ornaments made of the hair. Besides the tomb of its founder, there are, in this chapd, three other splendid monuments, of which the first in ordef of time, is that of Robert Dudley, Earl of Lei- cester, the favcjurite of Queen Elizabeth, which stands tigainst the north Xvall. It consists of four Corinthian j)illars, supporting an entablature, placed over an arch, adorned iii front with a rich fascia, formed by cinque foils and the ragged staff, alternately disposed. Above the entablature, is a grand atchievettient in the C'entre ; and on each side, a kind of pyramidical temple, before which, stand a male figure on the right, and a female on the left. Just below the arch, on a table of marble, recline the statue of the Earl, in his coronet, clad in armour, covered with a mantle, and that of his Countess Lady Letitia, daughter of Sir Francis Knolles, in her coronet and mantle of ermine. The hands of both are elevated. These statues are finely sculptured ; but the appearance of the whole monnment is ostentatiously massy, without elegance of design, or proportion of j)arts. Within the arch, are sixteen flags, charged with as many armorial bearings. On the key stone, a])pears a cinque foil Erm. ; in the spandrils of the arch, and under each pair of pillars, the arms o^ Dudley impaling Knolles. In front of the tomb, the arms of Dudley again appear in (juarterings. 'J'he atchievement over the entablature, pre- ST. MARY'S CHAPEL, 133 Monument of Robert Diuliiy, Karl of LeursUr. sents the arms oi Dudley with quaiterings impaling Knnlles, encircled by the garter, supported by two lions rampant, and surmounted by a crest, the bear and ragged staff, between two other crests, and a lion's head issuing from a helmet. Over these arms, is a cinque foil Erm. and above all, the bear and ragged staff'. Under the arch of this grand monument, is placed a Latin inscription, which proclaims the honors bestowed, with profusion, but without discernment, upon the royal favorite, who owed his fortune solely to his personal attractions, for of moral worth or intellectual ability, he had none. Respecting his two great military employments, here so pompously set forth, pnidence might have recom- mended silence : since, on one occasion, he acquired no glory, as he had no opportunity ; and, on the other, the opportunity he had, he lost, and returned home, covered with deep and deserved Jsgrace. That he should be ce- lebrated, even on a tomb, for conjugal affection apd fidelitv, must be thought still more remarkable by those who recol- lect that, according to every appearance of j)robabilitv, he poisoned his first wife ; disowned his second ; dishonored his third, before he married her ; and, in order to marrv her, murdered her former husband. To all this it mny be added, that his only surviving son, an infant, was a natural child, by Lady Sheffield. If his widowed countess did really mourn, as she here ailects, it is believed that into no other eye but her's, and perhaps that of his infatuated (^ueen, did a single tear stray, when Sept. 4, 1588, he ended a life of which the external splendor, and even the affected piety, and ostentatious charity, in vain, endeavours to conceal or sofien the black enormity of its guilt and shame. a 2 124 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. Monument of Ambrose Dudley, Earl /' Wnrwick. To the memory of the Countess herself, Lady Letitia, relict of Walter Devereux, Earl of Essex, is hung against the wall, a wooden tablet, containing a long string of jingling couplets, replete with pun and quibble, which come, however, from the pen of Gervas Clifton, a poet of some consideration in his day. To understand the last line, it is necessary to be known, that she died on the morning of Christmas Day, l634. At the head of Earl Richard's monument, stands that of Ambrose Dudley, brother of Robert, but of far higher and purer character. He was usually known by the honorable appellation ot the good Earl of Warwick ; and to a certain degree, he was great as well as good. His monument is an altar tomb of beautiful marble. On the slab, lying in full stature, is the Earl's figure ; clothed in armour, with a mantle thrown over it. His head, en- circled with a coronet, reclines ( i a mat, rolled up ; his hair, short and curled, and beard long. At his feet, lies a bear collared and muzzled. The sculpture is a good specimen of ancient art. Round this monument, are shields, with armoiial bearings,* finely executed : and under the slab, is an English inscription setting forth his birth and claims, as the surviving son of John, Duhe of Northumberland; recounting the progress of his honors, successively be- stowed by his Queen, the reward of great and real merit ; and finally closing with the account of his death, at Bedford Hoitse^ Y^h. 21, 1589, Jn consefjuence of a wound he received in the service of his country, though lor a dcscfiplion of iliesi-, kc Apprtidix, No. 9. ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 125 Monument of Robert, son of Robert^ Earl of Leicester. that honorable circumstance, is here modestly suppressed. According to his own desire, his body was conveyed for intei-ment in this place, where the present monument was erected by his surviving Countess. Near the altar, against the south wall, is the monument of Robert, infant son of Robert, Earl of Leicester. It is an altar tomb, the slab supported by four Corinthian pillars, on which lies the figure of a child, dressed in a coat and mantle. His head, bound round with a double row of pearls, rests on a cushion ; and at his feet, is a bear chained. Above the tomb, against the walls, are the arms of Dudley, with the quarterings, and on each side, the bear and staff. Around the sloping mouldings, are ragged staves ; below which, at each corner, and in the centre, are cinque foil Erm. On the front, an inscription appears, in English, to admit a view of which, the shaft of a Corinthian pillar, is represented, aukwardly enough, as broken off and removed, leaving both the base and the capital behind. This inscription declares the relationship of the infant, or, as it is here expressed, "the impe," with all the noble personages whose dust lie near, unconsciously mingled with the common earth. One remaining monument, requires still to be noticed. It is a marble tablet, placed over the north entrance, against the wall, inscribed to the memory of Lady Catherine, wife of Sir Richard Lewison, of Trentham, Staffordshire, grand-daughter of Robert, Earl of Leicester : to whose generous cares, as the inscription informs, we are indebted for the admirable state of pre- servation, in which this ancient fabric itself, and the precious remains of old English sculpture it contains, now 12(5 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. Moiiuwcnt of Ludi/ Lenison Rons' sujipoxed Librart/. appear. For the purpose of necessary repairs, she gave during lier life, ^'50 ; and left after her death, ^40 per annum, to he paid out of the manor of Foxley, North" amptonsliire. Sir William Dugdale, the celebrated anti(juary, is said, by his representations, to have prompted this bequest ; of Avhich, himself and his heirs, conjointly with the Mayor of Warwick, were made trustees for ever. We cannot conclude the account of this beautiful and venerable stnicture, without uniting our expressions of deep regret, with those of every judicious spectator, that a chaster mode of restoring the beauty of the interior had not been adopted, when, about thirty years since, it was put into a state of complete repair. Nor can we yet con- gent to relinquish the earnest wish, expressed more than fourteen years ago, by Mr. Ireland, and since repeated by many others, though it still remains ungratified, that the gaudy colours of the painter may l)e entirely removed, and the whole restored to its primitive simplicity and elegance I ROUS' SUPPOSED LIBRARY. To the left of the altar, a door opens into a small room, which is commonly supposed to be the library liujlt by the celebrated John Rous ; but upon the authority of Leland, and after him of Dugdale, we may venture to say, that this supposition is erroneous ; for, by them, it is expressly said, that this library was built over the south ]5orch of St. Marys Church.* * liihliulliecam ciain iiiiiiiuil in ipsa aiislrali por'icu funi Maux Warwici. Lfi.. ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 12; The Chant?!/ the CunJ'essiouiil. TrtE CHANTRY. On the north side of the Lady's Chapel, ascending by four steps, is. the Chantrl/. This is a small room 18 feet by 8, paved with red and black glazed tiles. The roof is formed by pendant capitals. On the south side are three grated windows, looking into the Chapel : near one of which is a small basin, about six inches in the diameter, with a small orifice at bottom, and a shaft, intended per- haps for holy water. At the east end is the scite of art altar, under the window, Avith a fascia of lozenge work ; and over it a lion*s face and a Beauchamp cross. On each side, is a very fine niche, with pedestals. In this window, on painted glass, appears a scroll, held, by a hand reversed, inscribed with imperfect sentences. THE CONFESSIONAL. On the north side of the Chantry, ascending by four well-worn steps, is a small apartment, called the ConJ'essiovaL The roof is fan fashioned with a central slip of quatre foils. There are three north windows, grated and closed, by sliding shutters, pierced in the gothic manner. At the eastern extremity is the confessional seat : near which is an oblique aperture, opening into the choir of St. Marys, through which according to common report, confession was made. Bat it is doubted by several anti- quarians, whether this room Was ever used for any such purpose. The situation so near tlie Choir and the high altar, they observe, was a very unusual place for re- ceiving confessions. Besides, confessionals were nothing more than small moveable desks ; and, in the present case, confessions, if made at all, nmst have been made to one of the Chantry Priests contrary to prevail- ing practice. The grated windows are singular; but the 128 ST, MARY'S CHAPEL. West Boom Exterior of the Chapel. oblique aperture was intended, they assert, for the pur- pose of enabling the chantry priest to see the high altar, at the time when the host was elevated. THE WEST ROOM. To the west of the confessional, on the same floor, is a passage, in which are four seats ; and opposite to them, the upper part of a window, closed up, as if once opening into St Mary's Chmr. This passage leads to a western room, nearly of the same size as the chantry ; the floor of which is paved with red and yellow tiles, and the roof is formed with pendant capitals. On the south, are three grated windows, looking into the chapel ; and oppo- site, the upper part of a window closed, similar to that in the passage. EXTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL. After this account of the interior, we must not omit to mention that a view of the exterior, will exquisitely gratify the admirer of ancient architecture. Under the three southern windows, are flat niches ; and above them is a fascia, formed of blank shields and oak leaves, dispo- sed alternately. The flying buttresses are richly ornamen- ted. At the extremities of these are niches, with pedestals for images : on the sides, are four small pinnacles, and a large one rises and crowns the whole. The east window is grand, and the tracery beautiful. Above this window, are three niches, occupied by as many figures ; that of the virgin, in the middle, seated, and her infant child, reclining on her lap ; and on each side, are two male figures robed. ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 129 Early History, CHAP. XIV* Early Hist ory present Structure the Tower t/ie Interior the Monuments Vicars since the Revolution, W HEN the Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was ori- ginally founded, is entirely unknown. There is reason, how- ever, to believe, that it existed, as a religious edifice of some description, prior to the Norman conquest. For, accord- ing to Rous, the Chancel of the Church, in his time, was more anciently the Choir to the House of Nmis, Avho oc- cupied the ground on which it stood, and much of the surrounding land, as far, in one direction, as .S"^. John^s Hospital. This very ancient Nunnery was destroyed by Canute, the Dane, I016. Yet, it should seem, it was afterwards rebuilt; since the town of Clopton was expressly granted* to the Nuns residing here, by Henry De New- burg, the first of the Norman Earls. After this time, however, as a Nunnery, it did not long subsist. For, by Roger, the second Norman Earl, 1123, it was granted, under the name of the Church of St. Nicholas, to the fraternity of Deans and Canons, lately established at St. Mary's. * DucpA'-F.'s Warwickihi'-e, page S36, Jones' Edit. 17o.>. R 130 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. Ptesfnt Structure. From that time, two Priests were appointed, by the Deans and Cajiom, with fixed salaries, to conduct the religious services of the place; to one of whom, the charge of all the inhabitants, on the north side of the Bridge was ronnnltted ; and those on the south side, to the other. But, in progress of time, these salaries were injuriously withheld; and, by the interference of Tideman, Bishop of Worcester, in 1401, instead of the former arrange- ment, a vicarage was established here, to which a certain proportion of tithes was appropriated. At the time of the general dissolution, this Church was granted, by royal 4iuthorit)', to the Burgesses of IVarwich, and their suc- cessors for ever. The present Church is a recent stmcture of which the design is greatly and justly censured as exhibiting a lamentable specimen of modern gntJiic. It is, indeed, a Avretched jumble of different styles; and, in no part, discovers a single instance of correct taste or judgment. The windows must strike every eye as disproportionably large, so as to give to the whole exterior, that lanthorn appearance, which some have strangely affected to ad- mire:* whilst the excessive glare within, is very different from " the dim religious light," which is so truly described by Milton, as best suited to a place of \vorship, and is, indeed, so awfully striking in most of our ancient eccle- siastical edifices. The old tower, found to be in a niinous state, so long ago as 1748, was then taken down; and, on its scite, was erected, by Johnson, an architect of irurwlcJf, the present tower, deformed by misshtipen windows, and crowned with a spire, which, in * So MiLNtR'f Kcclet. Architect p. 114 and 153. ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 131 Toteer Interior Monuments. itself,* is neverwell adapted to Gothic structures, and which, in the present instance, from the want of due elevation, has lost its just proportion. In course of time, the body of the Church began to discover the decays of age; and, in 1779> that too was taken down. In its place, arose the present edifice, built under the direction of Job Collins, an architect also of IVarwick ; and it is for ever to be re- gretted, that a plan, so totally devoid of merit, should have been chosen in preference to another, far superior, which was offered at the same time by Francis Hiorne, whose name has already been mentioned with respect in these pages. ^The Church was finished, and opened for divine service, Sept. 17. l/SO- At the west end, are the two principal entrances into the Interior of the Church, which is neat and com- modious ; and, during the winter season, is kept dry and warm, by means of two large stoves, in the shape of urns. The monuments within this Church are neither numerous nor remarkable. Of these, two erected in the vestry, and one in the body of the Church, are dedicated to the me- mory of several individuals of the family of Stoughton, who were formerly seated at Stoughton, in Surrey, and who trace their descent to a Norman ancestor, so far back as the Conquest. One of these is dated 1666; the other two are without dates. A fourth monument, is in- scribed to the memory of Katherine, daughter of Sir G. Tipping, Bart, of Draycot, Oxon, who married into Even Salitbury Spire, tiioiigli one of ihe loftiest and finest troctures of tlie kind in England, will scarcely be admired, considered as an appendage to a noble Gothic Cathedral. It is observable, ih-l as llie Gotliic taste advanced in purity, Spires were laid aside, and the Tower whs generallv adopted. SeeGiLPiN' Western Tour, p. bb. R 2 132 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. Vicars since the Revolution. the family of Stoughton, and died 1724 : and a fifth, to the memory of Aaron and Bridget Rogers, 1709. The presentation to this vicarage is vested in the Corporation. Vicars since the Revolution. Rev. Samuel Jemmet, 1673 W. Greenwood, M. A 1713 Marmaduke Mathews, M. A. 1769 Robert Miller, M. A 1778 Arthur Wade, M. A 1811 The second of the above mentioned divines, Mr. afterwards Dr. Greenwood, was an author of some con- siderable merit. Amongst other works, he published in 1763, Essays on the Creation^ or an attempt to explain, upon rational principles, the first chapter of Genesis; and this was followed, in 1765, by a Harmony of the Gospels, which adopts the plan of Dr. Macknigiit, with slight deviations, and to which a well-written preface, contain- ing some judicious observations, is prefixed. He likewise published an exposition of that most interesting and im- portant chapter, the 15th of the 1st Corinthians. He also fiirnished Bishop Newton, to whom he Avas related, with the notes on Paradise Lost, published, with his name af- ^':ed, in the learned Prelate's edition of Milton. These notes are not, however, very consideral)]e in nnmber ; nor, in excellence, can they be said to vie Avith the criticisms of Addison, Pierce, or Newton. With the vicarage of St. Nicholas, Dr. G. held that of St. Mary's, to which he was presented, on the resignation of Dr. Hodges, in 1724, through the interest of the Lady Dowager Baroness ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 133 hiographical Police of Dr. Greenwood. ToRRiNGTON. A curious account of what passed on that occasion, is still preserved, in the hand-writing of the Doctor himself.* The patronage of St. Mary's, it ap- pears, was then supposed to be in the Lord Chancellor, who was at that time the Earl of Macclesfield ; but, on making the proper application to him, Lady Torring- TON was informed that the gift was in the Crown and not in himself. The application was next made, therefore, through the Secretary, Lord Townshend, to the King ; the living was immediately given, as desired ; and yet when the instrument v>as presented to the Chancellor, he refused to affix the seals ; alleging that, on further en- quiry, he found the gift was really in himself, and not in the Crown, At the same time, however, he made an offer of it, on his own presentation, to the Doctor, who very properly refused to accept it, from him, without the previous consent of the King. But, on a second applica- lion for that purpose, the King insisted on his right ; long delays and disputes ensued ; till, after the Doctor " had been tossed a good while" as he himself expresses it, " from pillar to post, between Lincoln s- Inn- Fields and St. Janies\'' the Chancellor at length yielded, and the presentation passed the Great Seal. On the next pre- sentation, which was that of Dr. Tart, the same dispite again arose; which ended in finally determining the right to be in the Crown, and not in the Seals. In the year 1739, Dr. G. obtained another preferment, more valuable than all, in the rectory of Solihull, to which he was pre- sented by Lord Archer. He then, resigned the living * In ilie possecsiun of a Lady of IVarwick. From (his account our Readers will easiljr correct tlie error into wliich wc have ina.lverientl^ fallen, p. litj. 134 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. Bioernphiral Noticr of the Rev U. Miit'''us. of St. MarvSy but retained that of St. Nicholas. He died in 17^0; and was buried at the entrance of Lea- mbigton Chirr ch. Of his successor, first, in <.he vicarage of St. ISlcholas, and afterwards in that of St. Marys, the Rev. M. Mathews, the following short biographical notice, from the pen of one of his clerical brethren, was given in the IVarwick Advertiser y Oct. 2, 1810. " On Tuesday evening last, died, aged 73, " the Rev. Marmaduke Mathews, vicar of St. " Mary's, in this borough, and of PVellinghorough, in the " county of Northampton, Domestic Chaplain to the " Eaid of IVarwich, and one of his Majesty's Justices of " the Peace for this county. During a residence of 30 " years in this Borough, spent in the offices of the sacred " ministry, first as curate, next as vicar of St. NicholaSy " and then (for the last 32 years,) as vicar of St. Mary's, " he had endeared himself to its inhabitants by his sim- " pllcity of heart, great benevolence, and strict integrity. " And it was his enviable lot to go through the several " duties incumbent on him, as a magistrate, a clergyman, " and a christian, with an irreproachable character. After " a short illness, borne with resignation and cheerfulness, " he calmly closed his long series of active and laborious " services, m ithout a groan, generally respected, esteemed, '' and regretted.'' DISSENTING PLACES, &c. 135 Preshijteriun Chapel. CH4P. XV. Prtibyterian^ Chapel Independent Chapel Baptist Westleian Quaker's Meetins House. X O the account, given in the preceding chapter, of the two remaining Churches, we subjoin the following short notices of the places of worship, belonging to the various classes of Dissenters. PRESBYTERIAN CHAPEL. This Chapel, situated in the High-street, was built in 178O, on a piece of ground, given for the purpose, by the late Lord Warwick, together with an adjoining house, in exchange for the ancient edifice, which stood in the way of an intended enlargement of his pleasure grounds. It is a small but neat buildirig, presenting a stone front, with an urn at the summit. Ministers since the Revolution. Rev. J. Carpenter, 1700 James Kettle, 1746 B. Kingsbury, 1/86 Willi ajm Field, 178.9 136 DISSENTING PLACES Biographical Iilotice of Rev. J. Kettle Independent Chapel. Of the second of these divines ^the following short notice is copied from the Warwick Advertiser ^ Ap. 19, I806. " On Sunday last, died, at the advanced age of " 90, the Rev. James Kettle. He was born at Eves- '^ ham ; and, after the usual grammar education, was *^ sent to Glasgow; where he completed his classical *' and theological studies, preparatory to the ministeiial " office, for which he was destined. His prior settle- " ment, as a Minister, was at Dorchester ; whence he " removed to IVarwich. Here he preached 40 years, and " resided almost 60 ; and, through the whole course of " his long life, by the gentle, yet potent influence of that *' unaffected piety and goodness, which become the Chris- " tian Minister ; recommended by the placid and amiable " dispositions, which adorn the man; and accompanied " by the graceful and agreeable manners, which bespeak " the gentleman ; he secured to himself the esteem of his " friends, and the respect of all who knew him." independent chapel. This Chapel, situated in Coiv-lane, was erected about the year 176O; and was greatly enlarged and im- proved in 1798. It is a good building, of considerable size, and is well attended. Ministers since the Revolutioji. Rev. J. Newton, 17^9 J. Lombard, 1 "jGi A. Rowley, 1773 J. Moody, 178O W.Williams, I807 J. Percy, 1811 OF WORSHIP. 137 Biographical Sketch of the Jiev. J. A'euion. The first of these divines Mr. Newton the favored friend of Cowper and, in himself, no ordinary man, was born in London, 1/25. He was educated at a Boarding School, in Essex ; and, early in life, was sent to sea. Here, in the course of several voyages, he went through many sui-prizing adventures ; of which he has given us an interesting account, in his Letters of Omicron. Afterwards renouncing a sea-faring life; and, with it, many evil courses, into which he had unhappily run ; he became a religious character, and turned his thoughts to the Christian Ministry. In 1/59, he came to IVarwich; and officiated, for a short time, as Minister to the Independent Sociefi/^ then newly formed. Soon changing his views, however, he thought proper to conform to the established Church, and received ordination from the hands of the Bishop of Lincoln, 17^4. By the recommendation of Lord Dartmouth, he was appointed Curate of Olrm/ Church. Here, he continued 15 years; and here, he first formed an intimate acquaintance with the interesting and amiable recluse of JVeston. It was afterwards his singu- lar fortune, of which he Avas duly and even proudly sensi- ble, to introduce to the world, the most distinguished of modern Poets, by writing the Preface to the first of his published works. That Preface, it must be owned, is net very pertinently or happily written : and Cowper himself hesitated at first to admit it ; and seemed not vrell satisfied with it at last.* But the diffidence of the Poet, and the ambitious desire of his friend, to connect his own name with a name of so high a promise, finally prevailed ; and the Preface was printed. From Olney, in 1/79? ^^i- ^ removed to London, in consequence of a presentation, by Sue Ha^lty's Life of Cope', l!o. v. lii. p. 123, 126, 13?. 138 DISSENTING PLACES Bioarii/ihifo/ Notice of the Rev. J. Moodi/. the interest of John Thornton, Esft. to the Rectory of St. Mary, IFoolnooth, Lombard-street. Here liis earnest and assiduous preaching, recommended and enforced by a considerable degree of natural and fervid eloquence, aided, no doubt, hy the recollection of the extraordinary events of his early life, long attracted crowded audiences. In I8O6*, at the advanced age of 81, he retired from his public duties: and, within a few months following, a long and eventful life, highly chequered by the good and the bad, greatly in- strnctive as a warning in its earlier, and as an examj)le in its later period, was closed by an easy and tranquil death. His writings are numerous ; and, amongst that class of Christians, to which he belonged, which was that of Cal- rinists, they are still held in great estimation. The Rev. J. Moody, the third of the Independent Divines, was orginally engaged in trade, but afterwards attended the instructions of the Rev. Messrs. Brewer, Barber, and Kello, with a view to the j)rofession of a Christian Minister. In 178I, he settled at WainvicTi; and here for twenty-five years, continued his unwearied and most useful labours, in the sacred cause of religious truth, as it appeared to his own honest conviction. His ]irin(ij)les were those of the great Genevan Reformer, held in their utmost strictness. But his faith and piety were sincere and fen'ent; his heart was benevolent ; his morals were correct and exemplary; his manners amiable and sprightly; his theological and general knowledge was respectable ; and his ministerial services y.ealous, persevering, and emi- nently succes.sful. He died in 1 806* ; and was buried in his own chapel, where his merits are recorded upon a handsome tablet, the uork and the gift of that divtinguish- ed artist, his friend and his admirer, Mr. Bacon. He OF WORSHIP. 139 Baptist Meeting House lifv. J. Rylund. published several single Sermons ; and, after bis deatb, ap- peared a volume of Letters, wbicb give abundant proof that he was a sensible, reflecting and studious, as well as SI religious man. BAPTIST MEETING HOUSE. This was originally two dwelling-houses. About the year 1/44, it was converted into a place of worship, and given for the use of a Society of Baptists, by Mr. Thomas HuRD, a native of IVarwick ; who, also, left an estate in trust, towards the support of it. It is a small building ; but, by means of galleries carried round three of its sides, is capable of accommodating considerable numbers. It is furnished, as are all the places of worship belonging to this class of Dissenters, with ground for sepulture, im- mediately adjoining. Ministers since the Revolution. Rev. J. RvLAND, I'/ 46 Knight, 175.9 Stennett, ^777 P. Reece, 1/80 J. Wilson, 1795 Ed. Mabbutt, 1799 Wm. Read, 1S04 The first of the above Divines, Mr, Rvland, was a man of no little celebritv in his time, especially amongst tlie class of Dissenters, to Avliich lie more immediately be- longed. He was born October 12, 1723, at Ditch ford, near Shipstone, on the borders of this county. He received his education, preparatory to the ministerial s 2 140 DISSENTING PLACES Wesleian Methodist Meeting' office, in the Academy at Bristol; over which his son. Dr. Ryland, now jiresides. In 1/46, he was chosen Pas- tor of the Congregation, at IVarwick : and here, for the space of thirteen years, he continued to preach with much approbation and usefulness. In I759, he accepted an in- vitation to the pastoral charge of the Baptist Society, at Northampton ; where, with his ministerial labours, he united those of an instructor of youth ; and, in this new and important character, soon acquired high reputation. From Northampton, he removed to Enjield: and here, at the age of 69, he finally closed the course of an active and a useful life, devoted to all the great interests of knowledge, virtue, and religion, July 24, 1792. He was possessed of considerable abilities : but a strong and ardent imagination was not controlled by equal soundness, or strength of judgment : and a great degree of what is usually called eccentricity , marked not only the manner of his public services, but even his conduct in private life. He publish- ed several single Sermons, and some other small Treatises ; among which latter one of the principal is, " Contempla- tions on the IVorks of Creation" WESLEIAN METHODIST MEETING. This is situated in Gerard Lane, small in extent, and humble in appearance. The society to which it be- longs, as the name imports, is a branch of the numerous and growing sect, originally established by the highly distinguished, and truly pious and virtuous Wesley. Like tlic other Methodists, they have no settled Preachers ; but their public services are conducted by a succession of Preachers, of Avhom those that officiate in this place, belonged formerly to what is termed, by them, the Hinckley Circuit, and now to the Banbury Circuit. OF WORSHIP. 141 Quaker's Meeting House, aUAKERs' MEETING HOUSE. This is situated in the south-western extremity of High Street. It was built about the year 1671, on a piece of ground given by Mr. Edward Tustian, an inhabitant of JVarwich, for the use of the Society of Friends, residing in the town and its vicinity. It is a small edifice, fitted lip with all the characteristic neatness, which belong to this truly respectable class of Dissenters ; and there is a spacious ground for sepulture, immediately adjoining. ^m' 142 COUNTY GAOL. Sttilc of th( Old Priaon Foiinfi'ition of tfir ;\V?<i Gnof. n , I I III I ' CHAP. XYI. Countp <i5aoL Stale of the Old Prison ^foundation of the Nero Gaol front entrance Dead Room Turtikei/s Lodice Keeper's House Mule Felons' Court Spacious netv hnildiiig for their use the cells the haths the work-shops the Hhupel Female Felons' Court apartments for their use Masters' side Debtors Common side Debtors' Ftmulc Dehlors' apartments Dun- geon present state of the interior allowance to the Prisoners. _L\! OTH ING could be more deplorable than the condition of the Old Prison, as described by Mr. Howard, at the time,\vhenj by his astonishing and most humane exertions, that great philanthropist first directed the public notice, to the state of prisons in general, and amongst others, to that belonging to the County oj fVarwich. His feeling and forcible representations were received with all the grateful and respectful attention, to which they were so deservedly entitled, by the gentlemen of this, as well as of every other County in the Kingdom: and, as the happy fruits, in the place of the old, unsightly, unsafe, and un- healthy Gaol, arose the present large, substantial, and commodious }^iIe, in every respect so complete, as to leave nothing to be desired, but that its situation had been nearer to the extremity, than the centre of the toAvn. The whole area is surrounded by a wall, 23 feet higb, and strong in proportion; which incloses a space, not much less than an acre of land. COUNTY GAOL. 143 Front Entrance Dead Room Gooiei's f/ /vp, til III ; The solid stone front of this great and important building, is in North Gate Street, standing in a line with that of the County Hall; supported by massy pillars of the Doric order, three quarters length; and measuring in its whole extent, I26 feet. Of this front, nearly the whole is separated from the rest of the building; and is converted into Public Offices^ for the use of the Clerk of the Peace, and others. In the Bridewell-lane, is the principal Entrance into the Prison itself. Here, on passing the outward gate, is the Turnkey's Lodge; and over it, w^hat is called the Dead Room; through which unhappy sufferers are conducted to the place of execution, immediately before the Gaol doors but for which, it is to be hoped, at no verv distant period, there will be much less use, if the spirited and benevolent exertions, now embodied and employed, to av/aken in the public mind a sense of the inefficacy, as well as injustice and cruelty of the frequent capital punish- ments, prescribed by the present laws, should not fail of success.^ Next beyond the entrance, is a small Court Yard: on the left of which is a kind of summer apartment, be- longing to the Gaoler: and on the right, and in the front, are the Turnkey s apartments. Over these last, is the Goalers House, which forms nearly the central building of the whole ; and which cotnmands, from its windows a view into all the different court-yards. Near the door leading into the Turnkeys apart- ment, is fixed an Alms Box, for the benefit of poor * See ' An Account of the oripin and object ot ilie Sofieiv fur ihe diffusioa of Knowledge upon tLe punUlirr.enl of Death." 144 COUNTY GAOL. J\liite Ft Ions' Court Yard Sezo Building for their use. Debtors, put up in 179^, when he was High Sheriff', by that enlightened and ardent friend of his country, and of humanity, the hite Blackett Wise, Esa.; on which are inscribed the following lines, so much admired for their simple pathos, as to have been since adopted, for a similar purpose, at the Debtor's Prison, in Dover Castle, " O ye ! wliose hours exempt from sorrow flow, " Behold tlie seat of pain, and want, and woe! " Tliiuk, while your hands, tlie entreated alms, extend* " That, what to us ye give, to God ye lend!" Immediately within the Turnkey's apartment are theybw?' doors, which lead to the four principal divisions of the Prison o( which the two first conduct to the 3Ialc and Female Felons' Court Yards, and the two last to the Masters side, and the Common side Debtors. On the right, is the door leading to the Mate felons' Court Yard, which is spacious and airy; measur- ing not less than 96 feet in length, and 54 in breadth. Entering this Yard, on its left, or south side, stands the principal range of building, extending in its whole length i)6 feet, and rising to the heighth of four stories. It is newly and substantially built of stone. At its two ex- tremities, on the ground floor, are the two Dai/ Rooms, each of which, measures 31 feet by 19. Between these, is a range of eight sleeping cells, in front, looking into the Court Yard; and another range of the same number behind, looking into a Garden, belonging to the Gaol. These two ranges, are separated from each other, by a wall and passage, on each side of it, five feet wide. On the ground floor, are also three solitary cells. These, and all the cells, are formed with arched roof^ 9 ^*^*^^ 1^'a^^ = COUNTY GAOL. 145 Mule Felons' Apartments Hot and Cold Baths. and every cell measures 29 feet by 6. Ascending a flight of stone steps, on the second story, are likewise two ranges of cells; one in front, the other behind; separated from each other, by a wall and two passages^ in the same manner as those upon the ground floor. The whole number of cells on this story, are 20, of which two are solitary cells, and eight are called double, because they are twice the size of the others, and are intended for the reception of two prisoners. On the third and fourth stories, are also two ranges of cells, of the same number, and the same dimensions, divided from each other, in the same manner, as those in the lowei* story. On the whole, therefore, there are 79 cells ; and as 24 of these are double, the number of prisoners capable of being received and lodged in this part of the Gaol, is 103. All the cells have glazed windows; and all are perfectly dry, and exceedingly airy. Each cell is secured with double doors ; the inner of w ood, and the outer of iron grating. In every cell is an iron bed- stead, with wooden bottom; furnished with a chaff bed, and two rugs. Two of the double cells are provided with fire-places, and are appropriated to the use of the sick. Such is the large, lofty, and airy building, which occupies the south side of the Male Felons' Court: and, on the opposite side, is another building of nearly equal length, but only one story in height. This consists, among other convenient offices, of a hot and a cold bath, for the use of the prisoners; and a room, in which the irons are deposited. The man of humanity will rejoice to hear, as a happy consequence, resulting from the present secure state of the Gaol, that the use of these irons, especially those of the heavier kind, is now become almost un- necessary. T 146 COUNTY GAOL. The Work Rooms tfie Chapel Female Felons' Apartments. Beyond this first and low building, parallel to it, and separated from it, by a yard 10 feet wide, is another building:, which rises two stories in height. Here on the ground floor, properly divided from each other, are two work-rooms, one for the men, and the other for the women. The former it was proposed to employ in weav- ing; and the latter, in spinning. But hitherto, this part of the plan has never been carried into execution : and, at present, one of the work-rooms is used by those debtors j who employ themselves in their several occupations, as of tailors, or shoemakers : and the other is occasionally used as a day-room, when the number of prisoners is more than usually great. Over these rooms, on the second floor, is the Chapel; which is large, light, and com^ modiously fitted up. It is divided by a partition, so high, that the sexes are out of sight of each other. But the ofl[iciating Clergyman, and also the Gaoler himself, from an elevated seat, command a view of the whole. All the prisoners, unless prevented by illness, attend divine service, every Wednesday and Friday. The second of the four principal doors, already mentioned, within the Turnkey's apartment, conducts to the Court-yurd, belonging to the Female Felons, which is nearly in the form of a triangle, whose base is 56 feet, and perpendicular heighth 24. Along one side, arc the apartments, appropriated to their use. These consist, on the ground floor, of a day-room, 18 feet by 14, two sleeping-rooms of the same size, and a wash-room ; and, on the upper story, two sleej)ing-rooms, and a third, pro- vided with a fire-place, to be used occasionally as an in- firmary, all of nearly the same size as the day-room. The third and fourth doors, within the Turnkey's COUNTY GAOL. 147 Apui iiiienis 0I the Masters' side ComrnoH side and Female Debtors' Duiigeon apartments, conduct to the different Court-yards, of the Masters' side Debtors, and of the Common side Debtors. The former measures 82 feet hyST"; and the latter is nearly of the same extent. -On the Masters side Debtors, is a day-room, 20 feet by 16: nine lodging- rooms on the ground floor, each about 10 fpet square; and, on the upper story, eighteen sleeping-rooms, of the same size, opening into a passage only three feet wide. The prices to be paid for the use of these rooms, fixed by authority, are marked on a table, and publicly exhibited. For the Common side Debtors, a day-room is provided, about 14 feet square, on the ground floor; and three sleej)- ing-rooms, on the upper story, furnished with chaff Ijeds, and two rugs each, for which nothing is paid At one extremity of the Court-vard, belonging to the Common side Debtors, is a door wiiicli leads into that of the Female Debtors. Their apartments con>,ist of two rooms, the larger, 20 feet square; the smaller, 16 feet by 9. Their bedding is the same as that of the men ; but here, bedsteads with sacking bottoms, are al- lowed. In the Court-yard, belonging to the Common side Debtors, is the old Dungeon; to wliich the descent is by 21 steps; and which is liglited only by one small grated aperture, at the toj). Those who would enter into the feelings of just indignation, with which the great Philanthropist describes this Dungeon * as a place of con- finement for human beings, will rejoice to be informed, that it has not, for many years, been used for any sucli purpose; and that now, prisoners are never conveyed thither, * Howard oil Priso.i^, v. i. p. 270, v. ii p. V08. 148 COUNTY GAOL. Present state of the Intrrwr. except when conducted, in order to take their respective trials, through a subterraneous passage, which opens near it; and of which the other extreuiity terminates, by a good contrivance, near the Prisonera" bar, in the County Hall. Such are the several divisions of this well-planned and spacious Prison every part of which, we must now add, is plentifully supplied both with hard and soft water. It is white washed, once every year; and the whole is kept in a state of the most perfect order and cleanliness, so as to reflect great credit on its present superintendent; and to justify, it is hoped, the warm and liberal com- mendations, bestowed upon it, in his late excellent and most useful publication, by Mr. Neild* of whom it is high, as well as merited praise, to say, that he zealously pursues the plans, and nobly emulates the glory, of Howard. Alas I since this was written the afflicting in- telligence has been announced to the public, that the second Howard, is no more ! A life of laborious and benevolent exertions, directed, with little encouragement from those iu power, to the great object, of discovering and removing the abuses, and of preventing or alleviating the distresses of Prisons, terminated unha])pily for the miserable tenants of those gloomy abodes! Feb. l6, 1814. He has left, however, to the wisdom and humanity of his country, for the benefit of the most wretched of our species, an invaluable legacy, in his important volume, already alluded to, entitled, after those of his Great Predecessor, " The state of Prisons in England ami Wales,'" a work which he had com])letcd only a short time previous to his death. If this is a di- gression the Reader capable of appreciating, and honoring N'ild'Sfulf of Fiiso'i*. pngc 577, i See Cent. Ma^. Februan, lOll. COUNTY GAOL. 149 Allowances to the Prisoners Officers belonging to the Gaol. what is most exalting^ in human character, will easily pardon it. To return to the short remainder of our account The act for the preservation of health, and the clauses against the use of spirituous liquors, are conspicu- ously exhibited to view in several places. The daily allowance to each prisoner is one pound and a half of bread, sent in loaves from the baker, and always of full weight. Besides this stated allowance, the prisoners re- ceive from a legacy eight three-penny loaves, twice a month. They are regularly sent by Bernard Dewes, Esq,, of Welleshourne, in this County, who gives also a ton of coals to the Debtors, and the same to the Felons, every Christmas. At that season, also, a sum is usually given for the relief of the Poor Debtors, which fre- quently amounts to 40 or <^50. Gaoler, Mr. H. Tatnall, salaiy. . ^300 Chaplain, Rev. H. Laugharne, do. 70 Ditto, gratuity 30 Surgeon, Mr. Birch, salary 60 $ Niliil est tain regium, tani liberale, tamque munUicuiu,quam opein letre suj^piiciuus, excitare afHictos, &c. 150 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. Kn pel's House Vuiirtm'i Apartmenls. CHAP. XYII. Countp 25nticUjeIL Keeper's House Vagrants Apartment Mens' Court Yard The Factory Mens^ Apartment's Womens' Apartments Kcw Apartments for the Hoinen Neu; Warehouse and Dj/e House New Building for disorderly Apprentices and Servants The Chapel 'TAe Articles manufactured Internal liegulutions Present state of the Interior Allowance to yrisoners. x\ T a small distance from the entrance into the Gaol, on the opposite side of the same street, stands the Bride- well. It presents to view, the Keeper's House, with a handsome stone front ; terminated at each extremity hy a gate-way ; measuring in its whole extent 80 feet ; and di- A'ided from the puhlic street, hy a garden, wliich helongs to it. Of its two Gates, one conducts to the part appro- priated to the men ; the other, to that appropriated to the women. Passing through the former of these, and entering a small yard, on the right, is the Keeper's House, which, from its -.vindows, commands a view into the two nearer and principal Courts : and, on the left, is the Vagrants' AparTxMEnt. This is entirely detached from the rest of the Prison, hy a high wall ; and consists of two sleeping cells, properly divided from each other; one for the men, COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 151 Aleiis' Court Yard I'he Factory. and the other for the women. Each cell is about 10 feet square ; and to each is attached a Court-yard, 21 feet long, and 12 broad. From the outer Gate of the Pnson, just mention- ed, proceeding directly forward is another, which leads, down a flight of stone steps, into the Mens' Court Yard. This is dry, air)% and spacious, 'measuring 99 feet by 36 : and is nearly surrounded by the various buildings, so humanely and judiciously provided, not merely for the necessary shelter, but also for the profitahle employment of those who are doomed, by the offended laws of their country, to suffer confinement in this Prison. Of these various buildings, there are no less than four, besides the Keepers House, and the Vagrants^ cells, already mentioned, which form so many distinct depart- ments in this great and important establishment. These we shall proceed to notice in the following order the Factory the Mais' apartments, in which is the Chapel the IVomens' neiv apartments, in which are also the dye house, and the warehouse and the new building, for the reception of disorderly apprentices and servants. On the left side of the Mens' Court-yard, stands the Factory, two stories in height ; in which the comb- ing, spinning, and weaving of worsted, are carried on, to a considerable extent, and with the happiest effect, in the mutual advantage of the prisoners themselves, and of the country which they have wronged. On the basement storv, is the first workshop, 80 feet long ; containing a loom, a considerable number of spinning wheels, a carding ma- chine, and a twisting mill. Close to it, on the same floor, 152 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. Mens' ApartmentsWomfns' Apartments. is a combing and sorting room. On the upper story, is the second workshop, of the same size as the first ; in which are seven looms, ten spinning wheels, and a carding machine. Opposite to the Factory, stands the second, which is the central and principal building, extending along the whole eastern side of the court yard, and containing the apartments for the men. Here in the basement story, are a warm and a cold bath, an oven and a boiler, with pipes to conVey water into it, from the reservoir. The second story contains a day-room for the common use of the men ; and another for the exclusive use of the convalescents. Over this is the chamber story; in which is the chapel, three sleeping cells, and a sleeping room about 15 feet square. In the attic story, is a sleeping room, 30 feet bv 15, with partitions on the floor, to serve for the purpose of beds; a sick room, l6 feet by 14, furnished with wooden tnm-up bedsteads ; and adjoining to it, another room, pro- vided with a fire place, which is also for the use of the sick. In the same building, are distinct apartments for the women. These consist, on the ground floor, of a day- room, 27 feet by 16 ; on the second story, one sleeping room, 16 feet by 14, and two sleeping cells, 7 feet square ; on the upper story, one sleeping room, 30 feet by 16, and one sleeping cell, 7 ^'^^t square. The womens^ day-room opens into their own court yard, 83 feet long, though not more than 15 feet wide. Such are the apartments, at present, appropriated to the women ; but it must now be stated, that the whole of these are intended to be added to the apartments COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 153 JVcro Building for the Women. occupied by the men ; as soon as another spacious building, preparing for the reception of the women, is completed. This, which is the third of the four great buildings, extends along the uorthern extremity of the Mens' Court-yard, at right angles both to the Factory and the Central Building ; measuring 89 feet in length, and rising to the height of three stories. On the ground floor are the Dye-house, 30 feet by 15, properly fitted up with coppers and stoves ; the stove- room ; the wash-house, 15 feet by 15 ; and the womens' day-room, 31 feet by 15. On the second floor, is a spacious work-room, 65 feet long, and \A broad, capable of receiving from 40 to 50 spinning wheels ; a liglit and airy room for the use of the sick, 17 feet by 15 ; and a sleeping room, 31 feet by 15. On the upper story, is a sleejiing-room, the same size as the lower on 2, and the whole remaining part forms a capacious warehouse for receiving and storing the manufactured goods. FrOxM the regular system o^ employment, established in the Bridewell, it has long been considered, both by the judges and the. magistrates, preferable, as a place of confinement, even to the County Gaol ; though the latter is so much more S])acIons and commodious. In conse- quence, the number of prisoners sent hither, has of bite years, greatly increased; and in 180S, it was determined to enlarge it. About that time, accordinglv, the i'onndation of another building Avas laid, which has since been coin- pleted. This immediately adjoins the newlv erected buildiijg, last noticed, at right angk^s to it, standing in a spacious garden, from which a piece of ground 38 feet, hy 30, is taken for a court-yard, and surrounded bv a higli w;>I]. It is substantially buill, extending in front 5 4 feet, 1/ 154 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. AVrt' Building J'or disorderly Apprentices. and rising to the height of three stories. On the ground floor, are a day-room, l6 feet hy 12 ; a workshop 28 feet by 12; and two solitary cells. On the middle story are 8 single cells, 12 feet by 5 ; and on the up])er story, 2 single cells of the same size, and three double cells, measuring 12 feet by 10 J. Every cell has a glazed window, and an iron door ; and they are all furnished with iron bedsteads and chaff beds. This new building, the Fourth within the pre- cincts of this great Prison, will no doubt be found a very important addition to the various accommodations, which the well-judging humanity of the County has provided for those unhapj)y persons, whose crimes have rendered seclusion from society necessary : and it will certainly contribute to raise still higher the opinion, which has been formed of it, by competent judges, as one of the best in the kingdom. It is intended exclusively for the reception of disorderly apprentices and servants, and of persons convicted of smaller offences ; who will thus be kept en- tirely separated from others, whose crimes are of a deeper dye, or whose term of impnsonment is of longer duration. The Chapel, it has been already mentioned, is in the chamber story of the central building. It consists of two distinct rooms ; one for the men, 36 feet by l6 ; the other for the women, 13 feet by l6. These rooms have no other, communication with each other, except that of one high and barred window ; close to which, the Clergy- man's desk is placed, who is, tlierefore, seen and heard equally well in both. The womcns' room is an addition lately made to the Chapel, which before consisted only of that part, now approj)riated to the men ; and as it has COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 155 Articles mamifuctured Allowance to the Prisoners. been so pointedly noticed both by Mr. Neild* and by Dr. Lettsom,^ as much too small for the accommodation of the great numbers ; with which this prison is generally filled, and sometimes even crow ded we have great pleasure in thus distinctly stating, that a place of confinement, which has obtained from them and others, such high and deserved commendation, is no longer liable to the reproach of that single but serious defect. The following are the principal of the various articles manufactured in this Prison. Scotch and Venetian carpets woollen webs rollers ^braces Jersey aprons Linsey petticoats coloured tammies blankets bed rugs and horse cloths. ^The goods are most of them sent to London, Sirmingham, PFalsall, Dudley, Lincoln, and Stamford. All prisoners v/ho work, receive 2d. or 3d. in every shilling out of their earnings, which is paid them weekly. The amount of earnings from January 1813, to January 1814, was about .3^350, and the number of hands employed during that time, was from 40 to 50. The stated allowance to all the prisoners is one pound and a half of bread each per day. One hundred weight of coals a day, in the winter months, and half a hundred in the summer months, are allowed to tlie men, and the same to the women ; besides firing for the sick rooms. Chaff beds, and two rugs to eacli, are allotted to all the prisoners. The men are attended by a barber weekly ; and they have clean linen once every week, which is washed and mended by the women. Soap and towels are allowed to all. In cases of sickness, the Surgeon Ntild's State of Piisi.n-, p. .i7.>. * LettsomV Letter, Gc;.t. Mag. April, 1310. U 2 156 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. Intetnal Kegu/ations. orders what he judges necessary, at the expence of the County. The women are generally supplied with clothing from the prison manufactory ; which, if wanted, is given them, when discharged. A donation is also made to everj' prisoner, on being released, according to the distance from home, and behaviour during confinement. One or two sihirts, or shifts, a pair of shoes, or a jacket, are presented to those, who have been imprisoned six months. The act for the preservation of health, and the clauses against the nse of spirituous liqnors, are hung np conspicuously to view in the prison. The whole of it is white- washed once every year ; and the greatest order and cleanliness prevail through every part of it, under the careful management of the present conductor, whose services have been desen^cdly marked Avith public aj)pro- bation, by the very considerable addition made to his salary. Before we close this account of JVarwick Bride- well, Ave cannot refuse ourselves the pleasure of transcribing the following favorable notice of it, from the pen of Dr. Lettsom so long known, and so highly distinguished for his indefatigable exertions to improve and perfect in itself, and to promote throughout the world, the astonish- ing and tnily humane system of recovering persons from apparent death ; as well as for his ardent and active en- deavours, on all occasions, to prevent or relieve, in every most wretched fonn, the distresses of human life. " We " have fre(juently occasion, "says that enlightened and benevolent Physician," to notice the lamentable state " of Bridewells and Woikhouses but, as a contrast, let " the attention be transferred to that of the Brideucll in COUNTY BRIDEWELL. UJ Officers belongivg to the Prison. " IVarwick ; where industry is encouraged, and where the " product of labor is appropriated to promote its exercise. " It shoukl, indeed, be contemplated by every Magistrate ^' and Overseer in the kingdom." Gent. Mag. April, 1810. Keeper, Mr. Jos. Chaplin, salary ^200 Chaplain, Rev. H. Laugharne, . . Surgeon, Mr. Birch, 158 HISTORY OF Fourtf/ed 1)1/ Htheljicda, dauiihier of Alfred. CHAP. XVIIK J^i.f(torp of il^attaicfe a?tle. Tounded hi/ Eihel/^eda strengthened and enlarf>ed by order of William I. anet granted by liim to Henry de ^'ewbiirg' garrisoned by the royal troops in the reign of Henry II. surprised, and in port destroyed, in the reign of Henry IIL transferred from the family of De lieu-burg, to that of De BefivchiiMp, m thi' reign of Edicard I. repaired by the Jirst Thomas de Beauchainp Guy's Torrer built by the Second Thomos de Beauchamp seized by the Crown, in the reign of Richard II. restored enlarged and improved, In/ George D. of Clarence again seized by the Crown Beer Tower besnn by Richard II f granted to John Dudley escheated to the Cronn granted to Ambrost Dudley reverted to the Crown grantid ii- Sir Fitlke Grerille 7 epaired and adorned by himgteutly improved and embellished by the lute and the present Earls of Waruicl. JlT appearsj according to the Saxon Chonicles,that a Castle was founded at JVarwick, by Ethelfleda, the accom- plished danghter of Alfred the Great, in the year 915.* In these early times, a Castle usually consisted of a monnd of earth, taken from the fosse, surrounding the whole ; on which a square tower was erected, called the Keep or Dungeon : though the former of these terms be longs more properly to the higher parts of the building, in which the family resided ; and the latter, to the deep cells, designed for the detention of miserable captives. DugO. Jones' Kdi.ioii, 17 6o, p. 308, &c. WARWICK CASTLE. 159 Strcni^thcned h/ order of William I. g'anled to Henry de Ncwlur^. Of the ancient Saxon Castle^ at IVarwich, probably, nothing more remains except the mound of earth ; within which, however, there is every reason to suppose, the lower parts of the Dungeon^ if sought, would still be found. The several parts of the Castle, as at present it appears, were built, it is certain, at different times ; nor can it be proved that any of these are older than the period of the Norman Conquest. Caesar's Tower is ge- nerally considered as the most ancient ; but of its erection nothing is known : and the name was, in all probabilitv, given to it, as well as to one of the Towers of the neigh- bouring Castle of Kenilworth, from no other motive, but that of veneration for the Ancient Romans. At the time of the conquest, as already related,* TuRCHiLL, the reputed Earl of IVarwich, was employed by Will. I. to repair and enlarge this important Fortress; and, on that occasion, four houses were destroyed, which belonged to the Priory of Coventry. Distrustful, however, of TuRCHiLL, the CoNftUEROR soou removed him from the custody of the Castle ; and committed it to one of his own followers, Henry de Newburg, who was the first Earl of the Norman line. Wedgnock Park was formed by him, and added to the domains of the Castle. In the reign of Stephen, the royal garrison, here stationed, was driven out, by Gundred, Countess of Warioick ; and the Castle delivered to his great rival, afterwards Henry 11. In the reign of this latter prince, when his son appeared iii arms against him, the Castle again received a royal garrison. Bertram de Verdon was then Sheriff of the county ; and the amount of his charges, for supplies of * Page 6. 160 HISTORY OP Trunstetred In/ marriage to the famili/ of De Beauchnmp. ' provision, for wages of the soldiers, and repairs of the Castle, still remain upon record. || In the same reign, the garrison was increased, by the addition of two knights ; which before consisted of five knights and ten Serjeants. A remarkable proof of the importance, that was attached to this Castle, occurs, in the reign of Hen. III. On account of its strength, and its advantageous situation, as expressly mentioned,^ by a royal precept, directed to the Archbishop of Yorh, and to William de Cantalupe, Margery, sister and heiress of Thomas de Newburg, sixth Earl, was required to give good security, that she would not contract herself in marriage to any person, in whom the King could not place his most entire confidence. But strong as the Castle was by its fortifications, or by the nature of its situation, it soon appeared that it was not impregnable. For, in the same reign, 1205, William Mauduit, then Earl of JVarwich, who bad taken pait with the King against the Barons, was suqnised in it, by John Gifford, governor of Kenilworth Castle. Great part of tlie walls was destroyed :* the Earl and his Countess were carried away captives ; and were aftenvard* obliged to pay for their ransom, IQOO marks.;]: From the family of De Newburg, the possession of the Castle, and its sun'ounding domains, passed into that of De Beauchamp, by the maniage of Isabel, in II For2f)(jrs. of bieifl cr)rii, iii 13s 4d. 20 q'S. of raalt.^l. 60 oxen sailed down ^590 clictst). l 10s. od. salt ^lioldier'* wages, ^30 lOs. 8d. repairs, ^:> 7s. Oii . 5 ' E<> fjiioJ C8<<iriim Imhet inncnlis fortitiidinis e( siluiii versus partes Rlarchije." II liic lerin Maiden, wliichoneof tlif smaller lo^ert slill heats, was _ienlron) k luitiori liiai liie Casilc was iicttT taken, llii;, it appears, is crruneous. WARWICK CASTLE. 161 Castle Gate-way t/uilt and furl ified with Towers Guy's Tvwer erected. ^ ' ' " her own right, Countess of fVarwich, with William, sou of Walgherine de Beauchamp, as already related.* During the minority of the first Thomas dE Beauchamp, Earl of ff'^arwick, the government of the Castle was committed, after several other persons in suc- cession, to Roger, Lord Morthner. It was this Earl, admitted by special favor, at the age of 17, to the full possession of all his honors and privileges, who rebuilt the walls of the Castle, left in a ruinous state, since heir demolition, in the time of Earl Mauduit. By him also^ the strong gates were added, and the gate-ways fortified by embattled towers. In the year 1394, the strong and stately tower, at the north east angle, was built by the se- cond Thomas Beauchamp, son and successor of the former, in the Earldom ; and called, in honor of the ancient hero of that name, Guys Tower. In 1397, this Earl was banished, on a false charge of treason, and the custody of the Castle was given to John de Clinton. Soon afterwards, however, on the accession of Henry IV. he was restored to all his honors and estates. From this time, the Castle remained in possession of the successive Earls, till the death of George, Duhe of Clarence, who had married the daughter and heiress of Richard, commonly called the stout Earl of IVarwich. By him much was done, and more was designed, in order to strengthen, enlarge, and adorn this Castle, which he had chosen for his principal residence. But the murder- ous hand of his unnatural and brutal brother. King Richard III. stopped short his course: and, after his * Page ,10. 1(52 HISTORY OF Bfftr Tower begun by Ru/iard III. Cattle granted to Dudley, Karl of Woricuk. death, during the minority of his son Edward, the Castle was seized by the Crown, 1477 ; and remained in the royal possession, during the whole reigns of Henry VH. and Henry VHI. Edward himself, no less unfortunate than his father, fell a victim to the jealousy of the former of those Princes ; and, in him, the title of Earl of IFaruich, became extinct. According to Leland,* " a mighty fayre tower" was begun and half finished, on the north side of the Castle, by Richard HI. " for to shoot out gunnes." The first stone, it is even said, was laid by his own hands. This, no doubt, is that unfinished tower, which appears in the inner'court, near the gate, leading into the pleasure grounds. It is called the Bear Tower ; because in it bears were kept confined, with a view to the diversion of hear baiting : which was formerly a favorite amusement even to the liigher classes of society ; and was one amongst the many other amusements, provided by the Earl of Leicester^ for the entertainment of Queen Elizabeth, during her fa- mous visit at Kenilworth Castle. In the year 1547, first of Edward VI. the title of Earl of fParwick, and the Castle, together with con- siderable part of the estates, anciently belonging to it, were granted to John Dudley, afterwards Duke of Nort hum- bet land. On his attainder, the estates escheated to the Crown : but were afterwards granted, together with the title, by Queen Elizaketh, to Ambrose Dudley, his son, who died without issue, 1589. The Castle, and its ap- pendages, then reverted once more to the Crown ; and in its possession continued, till the 2d of James I. Lei. if. 102, 163. WARWICK CASTLE. \6i Cantle granted to i'ulke Lord Biooke repaired and enlarged bij him. In that year, l605, the Castle, with all its gardens and other dependencies, was granted in fee to Sir Fulke Greville, Knight of the Bath, afterwards created a Baron, hy the title of Lord Broohe. He was already in possession of the large and ancient park of fVedgennck ; which had been granted to hiro, by Elizabeth. At this time, the Castle was in a very ruinous state : and the strongest parts of it were used as a County Gaol. Sir Fulke, determined to make it the seat of his family, and ex- pended ^20,000, in repairing and adorning it. He also purchased, and added to its surrounding pleasure grounds, the fields opposite its principal front, which formerly belong- ed to the Knights Templars ; and were thence called Temple Fields. Here, he formed large and beautifiil plantations j and he, it should seem, as well as the Duke of Clarence, be- fore him, had conceived in idea, though it was reserved for a distant successor, to carry into execution, the plan of that noble park, which now stretches, in extensive and delightful view, before the Castle windows. In short, under his trans- forming hand, this ancient and venerable pile, as Dugdale relates, became a place, ** not only once more of strength, " but also of extraordinaiy delight ; being planted with *' the most pleasant gardens, walks, and thickets ; forming " the most princely seat within the midland parts of the " realm."* In his family, it has continued, without inter- ruption, to the present time. * Dugrlale, Jones's Edition, p. 30y. So also !t was described, O' ail_y -40 vear> before, bjf Biahop Corbetl, ia hU Iter Eoreale, referred to, page 7 1. A place of streiigtii and healtli ; in ilie same fort You would conceive a castle and a court. The orchards, gardens, rivers, and the aire. Doe witli the trenches, rampires, walls compare: It seems not art, nor force can iniercepi ii. As if a lover built, a soldier kept it. X 2 l64 HISTORY OF, &c. Cdstle and its iiionnds cn'.iir'it.i and adorned bit the late and the present Earls. But the title of Earl of IVarwich, after tlie death of Ambrose Dudley, lay dormant thirty years ; and "W'hen revived, it was in favor of another family, as already related.* When, however, it again became extinct, on the death of Edward, Earl of IVarwich and Holland, with- out male issue ; it was once more revived, in the person of Francis Greville, father of the present Earl, great grandson of Robert, the nephew and adopted heir of the first Lord Brooke. He had been previously raised to the dignity of an Earl, by the title of Earl Brooke ; and was created Earl of IVarwick^ by letters patent, bearing date November 27, 1759. By Francis, Earl of IVarwich, and by his son, the present Earl, great and extensive improvements, have been made in the Castle, and its grounds ; of which we shall now proceed to give some account in an attempt to describe its present state. But here all description must fail ; and, in order to form a just, or at least, an adequate idea, either of its external grandeur, or internal splendour, it must be seen. We hope, however, to succeed so far as to point out, with some degree of taste and judg- ment, M'hatever is most deserving the attention of the stranger ; and to furnish such information, as will enable him to see, with greater pleasure, and to recollect after- wards, with more distinct impression, what he has seen. Fut :;/. APPROACH, &c. 165 Cdstelluted entrance to the Castle. CHAP. XIX. ^pproacfj to tfje a.sftle^ The Entrance Near View of the Castle Inner Court. vJN the eastern side, near an open space of ground, adorned with thriving plantations, is the principal en- trance into the Castle. Here an embattled gate-way, with a lodge, has lately been erected : looking, indeed, with scarcely sufficient dignity,* for the situation it occu- pies, but intended only as a temporary erection. Passing through this entrance, the grand approach is conducted, by a broad and winding road, deeply cut through the solid rock ; which in itself presents a striking appearance, and is clothed on each side, with moss and ivy, and crowned with trees and shnibs of every diversified form, and every various hue. So judiciously curved, and thickly planted, is this approach forming a fine sweep, extending in length, more than 300 feet ^thut eveiy other object is excluded from the sight ; till, at a sudden turn, the Castle itself, in all itb magnificence, bursts, at once, on the astonished and delighted view, with great, and even sublime effect. The part of the ground, now entered, was anciently the T^'meyard ; where, it is recorded, abundance of fruit Avas See, however, what is said, p. A?. Considering ihe inipos-tibility, from tlie great distance, of suflRciently connecting the Lodge with the Cubtle ; and the difficiiliy of forming any design for the former, which could at all vie with the venerable grandeur of tiie latter it raav, also, be questioned whether a plain erection, like the present, without any pretsnsions whatever, is not preferable to any attempt at something greater. l6S APPROACH TO a ' .' ii^M ^ .iw tin- near vieic of the Cost/e. I k li t gathered, even so far back as the time of Henry IV.^ hat whether this fmit was really the grape, has been the subject of much dispute. It is now inclosed ; divided from the town, and shut out from the view of all its meaner buildings, by a screen of trees whose rising summits, even St. Mary's Tower, and St. Nicholas' Spire, lately to be seen here, are no longer able to overtop. In the higher grounds, however, they still appear formins:, from several points, fine objects. Approaching towards the inner court ^the ijiear VIEW OF THE Castle, with all its solemn towers and battlements, mantled with ivy, and shaded with trees, and shnibs, of large size, and luxmHant growth, aifords a display of ])icturesque beauty and grandeur, scarcely to be exceeded. On the right, appears the mighty Tower of Gvi/, a polygon, of t\^elve sides, whose walls are of two feet thickness ; rising, with the most exact and beautiful proportion, from a base of thirty feet diameter, to the lofty height of 128 feet. It is of the kind, called ma- cA/co/a/ef/ having its open parapets projected from the walls of the tower itself, and supported by brackets, so as to leave a considerable interval between ; through which, boiling lead might be poured, or stones thrown down, on the heads of the assailants. Erected in tlie days of Richard II. this tower has stood unmoved, through the long course of four revolving centuries, nor does it yet discover any marks of decay. But even this appears little, when compared with the age of Ci^sar's Tuicer, on the left; the most ancient of the whole; wliich, in all pro- From the Biiiii'i Account in ilie .'>d of Henry IV. it up|>ciirs, ilmt wages were paid ! S"roe women or j:lli>ring grapes, dmiii'; ilic paceol five ^\ns^. Du^d. Jones'i Ediiion' %76b, p. 'MO. See the lenrned Dr. I'e^'ge's Dtsseilalion un llie subject. THE CASTLE. iSf Double Arch Gale-wutf into the Inner Court. bability, is nearly, if not quite as old, as the period of the Norman Conquest, Through the vast space, therefore, of 700 years, the tower of CjEsar has resisted all the accidents and decays of time ; even the sharp edges of the stones are not yet worn away ; and it remains, at this mo- ment, almost as firm and solid as the very rock, on which it stands. Its singular irregularity of constniction, may puzzle the architectural antiquary ; but the eye of the spectator gazes, and admires. From its foundation on the naked rock near the bed of the river, it rises with majestic form, to the prodigious height of I47 feet; though its rival tower, seated on the higher parts of the rock, still looks down upon it. The turret on its top is said to bear a striking resemblance to one of the towersi of Chepstow Castle ; which is known to be of early Nor- man erection. Cesar's, as well as Guv's Tower, is machicolated, and they are connected together, by a strong embattled wall ; in the centre of w^hich is the great Arched Gate-way, leading into the inner court, flanked with towers, and succeeded by a Second arched Gate- way, with other towers and battlements loftily aucending far above it. Before this whole front, is a deep moat, now kept dry, and formed into a grass walk ; over which, an arch is thrown where, formerly, was the drawbridge. Vast and irregular masses of clustering ivy, and the dark shading of high-aspiring .and wide-branching trees, which are every where interspersed, embellish and complete the picture. Passing through the long arched passage, formed by this double Gate-^way, anciently defended by two port- cullises, one of which still remain the Inner Court opens to view; and_, here, scarcely can even the most indifferent 168 APPROACH TO Inner Court of the Castle. spectator enter, without feelings of high and avvfiil, yet pleasing admiration. Here, still, seems to reign the grandeur of ancient days, undisturbed by the changes, and fluctuations of succeeding ages. The stranger, Without the aid of much enthusiasm, may here fancy himself, sud- denly transported from the scenes and events of present times, and carried back to years of old, and scenes long past. The age of chivaliy, with all its astonishing feats, and marvellous adventures, will here forcibly recur to his recollection ; and may, for a moment, almost cheat his belief. " Even the legends of the Champion Guy," it has been remarked, " lose their fabulous appearance, on " a spot, where all the surrounding objects so admirably *' correspond, with the wonderful exploits of ancient " Knight Erranti-y." Entering the inner court on the left of a spacious area, appears a grand irregular castellated Mansion, a residence fit, as even the high-wrought imagination could desire, for the powerful, the splendid, and the hospitable Baron of ancient times. It is a vast pile, of great strength ; and its venerable antiquity is not injured, by the alterations or repairs which modern taste has suggested, or progressive time has rendered necessary. On the left side, also, is Caesar's Tower, whose irregularity of form is here strikingly seen. In front, is the high mound of earth anciently the keep most beautifully clothed from its base, to its summit, with trees and plants, through which towers and battlements, at interv'als, are seen producing the finest eifect still further heightened, by the light unexpectedly breaking through the iron grating of a Gothic Gate-Way, which occupies, nearly the central and ^e highest point. Thence the embattled wall is continued. THE CASTLE. 169 Inner Court. to the right, overhung with aged ivy ; and occasionally hidden from view, by the interposing shade of trees. In this part, just rising to the sight, appear two unfinished towers, one of which is the Bear Tower, begun by Richard III. and the whole range is grandly terminated, towards the right, by the gigantic tower of Guy. Such is a feeble attempt to trace the outlines of a scene of which, so perfect is the fascination, that it would be difficult to say, what might be added, that could improve, or what might be taken away, that would not injure, the effect of the whole. After having sufficiently contemplated the views of solemn magnificence, which present themselves without the Castle the stranger may next prepare to enter within : and we shall now proceed to give some account of the rich and varied entertainment, which he may there expect. -?^ Y 170 STATE ROOMS Porch Great Halt. CHAP. XX. >tate ]Soom^ of t(|e a^t\t. Hall Vieus from its Windows large. Picture of Charles I. on Horseback^ Great Dining Room Portrait of the first Lord Brooke and of the Father and Mother of George III. AMi-RnoM Portraits of Cu' tharinc ofArragon, by L. Da Vinci of a Lady and her Son, by Vandyck a Pieta by L. Caracci Flight of Joseph tuo Landscapes, by Salvator Rosa-^ two Landscapes, by G. Poussin Ceuar Drawing Room Portrait oj F. II . Montague, by Romney Portraits of the (Countess of Carlisle Charles L Duke of Alva Marquis of Montrose Martin Ryckheart, all by Vandyck Muse of Painting, by Patoun and Circe, by Guido. A N elegant Gothic Porch, by a flight of stone steps, leads into the interior apartments of the Castle ; of which, the first is the Great Hall whence we shall conduct the stranger through the grand suite of rooms, which ar usually thrown open to public inspection. HALL. This is a noble room, admirably adapted to the scenes of splendid and princely hospitality, which marked and dignified the ancient feudal times measuring in length 6*2 feet, in breadth 36, in height 25. It is wainscotted with oak, painted: and the ceiling is oniamented in plaster. Suspended over the fire-place, are the horns of OF THE CASTLE. 171 M I I I I I m^ Antlers of the Moose Deer Prospect from the Windows. the rein-deer ; and hung up, on three sides of the room, are the antlers of the moose-deer. Those over the east door, were brought from America; and those over the Avest door, were dug up, on the e.state of Lord Hilsborough, in Ireland. These latter are of large size, though con- siderably inferior in magnitude, to the prodigious pair of antlers, opposite the fire-place ; which were a present from Lord Mulcaster, and were brought also from Ireland. As the moose-deer has not been found in that country, so far back as any remaining histoiy extends ; it must be supposed that these antlers have lain many centuries buried in the bogs. Round the Hall, are hung also, va- rious pieces of ancient British Armour ; and, over the western door, is a large gun, taken from a Spanish ship, by Lord A. Hamilton, grandfather, by the female side^ of the present Earl of Warwick. In deep recesses, are the three large Gothic win- dows of the Hall and, amongst the numerous attractions of the Castle, not one of the least is, the delightful and extensive prospect, commanding a rich and pleasing variety of objects, which opens from these, and from all the windows of the whole southern range. Below, at the distance of 109 feet, flows the Avon, here of noble breadth ; falling, with soothing murmur, down a gentle cascade, and washing the foundations of the rock. On the left, are seen the mined arches of the Old Bridge, wildly overgrown with slinibs and plants ; whilst, at greater distance, rising, in strong contrast, with all its modern elegance, appears the noble single arch of the New Bridge; enlivened by the moving figures, usually seen passing over it. Farther still to the left, the eye ranges over a somewhat confined, but pleasing landscape Y 2 173 STATE ROOMS Vie7f of the xchole range of State Jpartnients. formed by the winding Avorij and the fertile meads, through which it takes its way terminated by a good object, in Myton House. Directly in front the river, dividing into two branches, is seen, encircling a small isle, thickly covered with a fine plantation. Thence, pursuing its meandering course, to the right, it flows, for the space of two miles, appearing and disappearing at intervals, through the w^idely-extended and highly-cultivated park, which is every where animated by browsing cattle and sheep ; and every where embellished with lofty and spread- ing trees sometimes, scattered singly about sometimes, grouped into clusters and, at length, united in mass, forming the vast and noble sweep of woods, which bound the whole. In the midst of these woods, towers into view, the keeper's lodge ; and beyond them, appears a vast expanse of counti*y, shut in by the distant hills of IVor- cestershire and Gloucestershire. Standing in the Great Hall a view is obtained, at a single glance, through the open doors, of the whole range of state rooms, on one side, and of domestic apart- ments on the other forming a noble vista, extending from one end of the Castle to the other and measuring more than 300 feet terminated at each extremity, by beautiful windows ; one of painted glass, before which is seen a large bust, from an ancient Statue of Hercules. This latter is now in the British Museum, to which it was given, by Sir Wm. Hamilton ; and much resembles the famous Statue of the same hero, in the Furnese Palace, at Rome, the work of Glycon. FROiM the same room, looking down the long arched passage, which leads into the Chapel, at the end. OF THE CASTLE. 173 Portrait oj Charles I. on Horseback Great Dining Room. appears a fine picture of Charles I. by Vandyck. The King is dressed in armour ; mounted on a grey horse, of which the head is beautiful ; and attended by his Equerry, Monsieur St. Antoine, holding his helmet erroneously supposed, by some, to be the Duke d'Espernon. The head of the latter is fine : that of the King is not an original. This is a noble painting ; and at that distance, the figures nearly resemble life. It was given by Prince Charles, of Lorrain, to Lord Waldgrave ; and was never out of the possession of that family, until purchased hy the present Earl of fVarwich. Sir J. Reynolds is said to have offered 500 guineas for it. great dining room. This apartment was built by the late Earl of Warwick ; but the form of the Avindows, and the whole air of the room, preserve great consistency with the venerable antiquity of the pile, to which it belongs. In this room, is a large table, formed of various antique marbles, curious and beautiful. Here are, also, two large marble vases of elegant Etruscan shape ; and a delft blue vase, all worthy of attention. Over the mantle-piece Portrait of Sir Fulke GREViLLEj^r^/ Lord Brooke. Thougli he loved to be de- signated, the friend of Sir Philip Sidney, Sir Fulke had, in himself, strong claims to high estimation. He was a virtuous man, an accomplished nobleman, an upright states- man, a writer of merit, and a patron of learning. He died by the hands of an enraged domestic, as already re- 174 STATE ROOMS rortruit of Fulke Lord Brooke Prince and Pnnress of Wa/es. lated.* This fine painting is the production of William Patoi'N ; who, though he had received no previous in- struction, yet, by the force of his own native genius alone, attained to uncommon excellence in his art. He was educated for the profession of a physician, though he aftenvards declined the practice. He was tutor teU:he present Earl of IVarwich. On the two opposite sides of the room are Portraits of Frederick Prince of Wales, and Augusta, his Princess. In the arms of the Princess is a female infant, probably the late Dutchess of Brunswick. The former of these pictures is by Richardson, and the latter by Philips. They are not much to be admired ; the figures are stiff and formal. They were a present from Lord Archibald Hamilton, to the late Earl. Tlie frames, adorned with trophies and other emblems, are very superb. ANTI-ROOM. This room is furnished with beautiful chairs, worked by the Ladies of the present noble family. It contains the following paintings, besides other objects of curiosity. See page 40. Tlie following high and just compliment was paid to this noble- man, who was then Chancellor of the Exchequer, b3' IJisliop Cotbelt, in his Iter Boreale so often quoted before, Descr;bing his desctnt from the summit of the hill, on which ilie. ICorih Tower stands, lie thus coniinurs: As we descend, the lord of all this frame. The honoiable Chancellonr, lowardb us came. Above the hiU, there blew a genlle breath. Yet now we ft-cl a gentler gale bencoili. The praise and wcllcome of this Knight did make. The scat more elegant ; every word he spake Was wine and music, which he did expose To us, if all our art cuuld censure those. OF THE CASTLE. 175 Anti Room Portrait of Queen Catharine. Over the fire-place Portrait of Catharine of Arragon bt/ L. Da Finci. The first wife of Henry VHI. greatly distinguished by all the gentle and amiable \'irtues, which become and adorn the female charac- ter, and not destitute of the lofty spirit of a Prin- cess though unable to obtain, or long to secure, the affections of a capricious husband. This is a valuable painting, by Lionardo da Vinci, so highly celebrated as a painter of very enlarged genius and solid judgment. But though his designs are always coiTect, and his ex- pression natural and powerful, yet is colouring is not considered as agreeable, from the excess of violent tints, which appears in all his pictures. On the right side A Pieta, or Dead Christ hj Lewis Caracci ^who particularly excelled in re- ligious subjects ; and whose composition is considered as always pleasing, and sometimes sublime. On the left side Flight of Joseph into Egypt. in the manner of Rubens. Opposite the fire-place whole length A Lady and her Son Fandyck. The face and draperv very fine. The works of Vandyck form the largest part of the prosenr fine collection. He excelled in history, but most of all in portrait.* In this latter, he always gave an inexpressible grace to his heads ; shewed great variety in the airs ; and in some, the character is even sublime. The extre- mities of figures, especially the hands, are true, graceful, lliemanut Geiiiuj who *aii draw fioiu liis itnagiiiati'jii some noble cliaracter a lier.> a (airiarcii or a saini culliyaus ceripinlj m more sublime art, than fie wlio cin (ravT t'lgcllitr a compoition oiiJv ol" '.tecs and mounliiiiB. Gilvin'i Dicl^giet, p. s^l. 176 STATE ROOMS U' ' . ^^ Lttndscapes hy S. liosa Ditto by Caspar Puuisin. and exact : the draperies are cast in a grand style, and the colouring is truly excellent. On each side are two Landscapes one, rock, trees, and banditti in the other is the horrible represen- tation of a crucifixion, while rock and stunted trees and dreary desolation fonii the surrounding sceneiy bj/ Salvator Rosa a painter as every one knows, of* the very highest rank. He composed all his subjects in a grand style, and his designs were singularly cor- rect. He delights in ideas of solitude, desolation, and danger, in alpine ridges, in impenetrable forests, in rocky or storm-lashed shores, in trees blasted by lightning, and suns shorn of their beams. His figures usually are wan- dering shepherds, forlorn travellers, wretched mariners, and banditti lurking for their prey, or dividing their spoils. His works are exceedingly rare and valuable. Be- tween these, on a small cabinet, stand two vessels of bronze, called proefericula, because carried open before the priests, at their sacrifices : and on two other small cabinets, two vases of lava, with double handles. Opposite the window ^Two Landscapes rock, woods, and water in fine assemblage bi/ Gaspar Ponssin. ^This Painter was bom in France, and was undoubtedly one of the greatest painters of land>cape that ever appear- ed. His scenes are always beautifully chosen ; his distances recede from the eye with tnie perspective, his grounds are charmingly broken, and all his figures, trees, and other objects, arc always judiciously placed. Between these, stands a curious Cabinet, inlaid with brass, containing some fine specimens of delft-ware. Upon it, is a fine Nola Vase, painted. OF THE CASTLE. 177 Bust of Minerva Cednr Drutoing'Room. In the two corners, near the windows, are a Foung Triton and his Companion, standing upon superb pedestals. Between them, is a table of the curious pietra commessa, or mixed stone work ^the slab being a sort of marble, inlaid with precious stones, among which the fine blae lapis lazuli is very conspicuous, forming, through the whole, beautiful flowers. On this table, is placed, a fine marble bust, done from the Justiniani Minerva, at Rome. Over the west door, is a Bust of Lord Nelson, in bronze. Cedar Drawing-Room . This is a large and handsome apartment, measur- ing 47 feet by 25. The ceiling is formed in plaster, with much elegance. The mirrors are splendid, and the rest of the furniture antique and curious. The marble, in the central part of the chimney-piece, is extremely beautiful of a kind unknown ; and is said to be the only speci- men in England. It is supposed, however, by some, to be Brocadillo di Spagno. The marble table, opposite the fire-place, is inlaid with lava of Vesuvius ; and those, at each end of the room, are of Egyptian marble, called by some, the black antique, of which, the quarries are unknown. Below these last, are placed two very curious china cisterns, having the htus plant, beautifully painted, within : Standing on pedestals and small cabinets, in this room, are several Etruscan vases, in pairs and single, some of precious value. The paintings are as follows : Over the mantle-piece Portrait of Edward Wortley Montague an Englishman, in a Turkish dress, z 178 STATE ROOMS Portrait qf Edward Wort/ey Montainte. ly Romney. He was a character of tlie strangest ec- centricity. When a boy at H'estmhister school, he eloped, and was found in the disguise of a chimney sweeper. Afterwards, he became a fisher-boy; then a cabin-boy ; and, finally, a mnle driver, in Spain. Being discovered in this last situation, he was restored to his friends. Afterwards, he attended, with some advantage, the instructions of a private tiitor ; then, he served as a member in two successive Parliaments, and be- haved for a time with suitable dignity. But, at length, the rambling fit returned ; and he travelled through Italy, Spain, and finally, through European and Asiatic Tiirhey ; where he adopted the dress and the manners of the Turks. In a frolic, he married a washerwoman, and then refused to cohabit with her. After her death, to j)re- vCnt the estate from devolving to the children of Lady Bute, his sister, he advertised for a decent young woman, in ii state qf pregnancy, as a wife.* His oiler was accepted ; but the marriage was prevented by his death, 177^' ^The original of this fine picture was painted at f^enice : and so attentively and successfully had the artist studied the A^enetian colourists, that this might be easily mistaken for one of the best productions of that celebrated school. It was his own favorite work : and was long retained in his study, for his own use. He afterwards permitted a small print to be taken from it, as a decoration to Seward's Anecdotes of distinguished Persons : and, some time before his death, presented the original itself to a friend. The present copy, taken by Romney himself, in no respect in- ferior to the original, says Mr. Nichols, *' with other " ex(|nisite portraits, by the same Master, is ranked among >iicl>tjlj' llisior^ ol' I.eiecsterihire, OF THE CASTLE. 179 Portrait of the Countess of darlisle Vharfes I. Dnke of .Alva. '^ the choicest modern ornaments of that magnificent and " interesting old mansion, IVarwick Castle.'^ Opposite the fire-place centre-piece a whole- length of Lucy, Countess of Carlisle bi/ F^andyck. She was the daughter of Percy, Earl of Northumber- land^ and wife of Hay, Earl of Carlisle. She is de- scribed as a great wit, a busy politician, and a puritanical saint, and is said to have been the mistress first of Straf- ford, and afterwards of Pym.* Next to Lady Dorothea Sidney, celebrated under the name of Sacharissa, the Countess of Carlisle stands distinguished, in the A^erses of Waller ; and appears there, indeed, to more advantage, than in the portraits of Vandyck. " This great painter," says Walpole, " has left us to wonder, that the famous " Countess of Carlisle could be thought so charming." It was not, hov/ever, as Granger remarks, so much for her beauty, that she became the object of general admi- ration, as for her sprightly wit and fascinating manners. Opposite the fire-place right side Charles L bi/ Vandyck. This picture is said to have been once in the possession of Charles himself. The King has all that melancholy grace, which Vandyck alone, of all his paint- ers, knew how to give him. J He was not the worst, but the most unfortunate of Kings. Near the door Don Ferdinand De Toledo, Duke OF Alva by Vandyck.^ He was an able and valiant Warwick's Memoirs, page 20 4. % Horace Walpole. If this portrait was painted by Vandyck, it cannot be an original, at tilts Duke f Alva died 19 years before Vandyck was born. Z 2 180 STATJE [ROOMS Portrait of Prince Rupert Marquis of Montrose. general, high in the favor of Charles V. and Philip II. but " damned to eternal fame," says Granger, for his cruehies in the Low Countries, which then meditated a revoh from the Spanish yoke. Here, he is said to have boasted that, within a few years, he dispatched, by the hands of the common executioner, 3,6oo souls. Left side James Graham, Margiuis of Mon- trose hy Vandyck " the radiant eye proclaims the va- liant chief." This great hero of his age, was no less distinguished, by his accomplishments as a scholar, his high-bom greatness of soul as a noble, his ardent and generous feelings of humanity as a man, than by his consummate skill, and dauntless courage, as a general. Involved in the fortunes of the Stuarts, to whom he faithfully adhered, he was treacherously betrayed, and carried to Edinburgh ; where he was executed, with every possible mark of indignity, on a gibbet 30 feet high, l650. Even his book, written in elegant Latin, containing an account of his own life, was ignominiously tied about his neck, by the hands of the executioner. But he bore all his wrongs, with unconquerable greatness of mind with a dignified and disdainful superiority to all that the rage and malice of his foes could inflict. '* During these turbulent times, many instances of active valour occur," says Gran- ger, " but Montrose is the only instance of heroism !"* ^This fine painting, an undoubted original, was formerly in the possession of Lord Newhaven. See the charncter of this Nobleraan, fairly and strikingly delineated in Clarendon't History of the Rebellion, v. iii. page 5j6. " Let a man," say* Richardou, " read a cliarac- ter in my Lotd Clarendon, and he will find it improved, by seeing a picture of the same person by Vandyck." OF THE CASTLE. isi Portrait of Myckaert Mtise of Paintins, Circe. Near the door Martin Ryckaert by Vandych. RyckaerTj a native of Antwerp, was eminent a apainter of landscape ; and stood high in the estimation of Vandyck ; and other distinguished men of the same profession. He was born with only the left arm, and died l636^ Over the east door is The Muse of Painting extremely delicate hy W. Patoun. Over the west door Circe hy Guido with her magic wand and enchanted cup neither of which, says Mr. Warner,^ "would this enchantress have needed, had she '' possessed such a pair of eyes, as the painter has given her." ^This is, indeed, a very fine picture by that astonish- ing artist, in whose superior genius, the various excel- lencies of painting seem to be united. All subjects, however, were not equally adapted to him. The tender, the pathetic, the devout, in which he could manifest the sweetness and the delicacy of his thoughts, were those in which he excel- led. The heads of his figures are accounted not inferior to Raphael, either for correctness of design, or propriety and force of expression. His female forms, are exquisitely fine ; and the moving and persuasive beauty they possess, proceed not so much from the regularity of the features, as from the lovely turn of the mouth, and the enclianting softness and modesty of the eye. His draperies are al- ways disposed in grand style, and his colouring is astonishingly clear and pure. North. Tour, page ?4*. 182 STATE ROOMS (jilt Room. CHAP. XXI. Matt ItaomjEi o( t{|e ^>U. (continued.) Gii-t Room Portraits of Earl of Arundel Prince Rupert William, Prince of thunge a General Ruhens' first Wife a Lndi/ a Spanish General Earl of Lindsay n Nobleman Ignatius Lot/ola Charles I, Earl of Straj^ord Davilla Rich Earl' of Warziitck Prince Rupert Girl blowing bubbles Girl with a feather Machiavtl Murguis of Huntley Burgomaster Earl of Strafford Henrietta Maria Stat* Bf.O Room Bust of Edward the Black Prince Portraits of the Dut chest of FurmnA Lady Robert Earl of Essex State Dressing Room Boy aith a racket Portrait of the Duchess of Cleveland Sketch of the four Evangelists Two 1 andscapes by Salvator Rosa Portraits of the Dutchess of Bedford William, Eirst Duke of Bedford Francis, Secojid Earl of Bedford A Storm Portrait of Luther Boy in armour two Portraits of Charles' Beauties Henry IV. u Sorceress and Companion one of Lord B'ooke's children Triton Mrs. Digby two Heads a Sebastian Bacchanalians Inside of a Church a Guard Room a Boy an old Woman eating pottage Portraits of Catharine and Anne Bolevn Peter in Prison Peter delivered. J\l EXT beyond the Cedar Drawing-room, which takes its name from the wood with which it is beautifully wain- scotted, is another, called, from the manner in which its ceiling and its walls are finished, THE GILT ROOM. The ceiling of this room is splendid, and the chimney-piece very beautiful. On its mantle, are a large OF THE CASTLE. iss Fortran of the Karl of Arundel Prince Rupert. upright, two handled St. Agatha's Vase, two long eared Globular vases, with Isis' head, in terra cotta, and two tazzas, or drinking cups. The paintings are Over the mantle-piece centre Thomas How- ard, Earl of Arundel bi/ Rubens. To this Noble- man, the elegant arts are more indebted for encouragement than to any other of his time. He was the collector of the " Arandelian Marbles," presented by his grandson to the University of Oxford: amongst which is the celebrated " Parian Chronicle" This fine, picture glowing with all the warmth and animation of real life, is pronounced by Mr. Lawrence, painter to his Majest\', to be the best in the whole collection. Among the other paintings, in this room, there is one, however, which may well dispute the pre-eminence even with this. It is by the same great artist of whom, it is almost needless to say, that for magic of colouring, fertility of invention, and grandeur of com- position, he has ever been, as he ever will be, the object of high and universal admiration. He came into England, to negociate a peace between Philip IV. oj Spain, and Charles I. which w^as soon concluded. The King con- ferred on him the honour of Knighthood, and engaged him to paint the Banqueting house, at IP'hitehall. He excelled in almost every branch of his art, but his greatest excellence was in history or landscape. So hiiih is his fame as an artist, that the rest of his character is little attended to. But if he hud never handled a pencil, says Granger, his accomplishments as a gentleman, a scholar, and a statesman, would have set him far above tbe common level of mankind. He was born at Cologne, 15/7? ^xnd died at Antwerp, 16-40. 184 STATE ROOMS. Fortrait of the Prince of Orange a General Rubens' first Wife. Right side of the manfle-piece, above portrait of Prince Rupert. Painter unknown. On the same side of the maiitle-piece, below Wil- liam, Prince of Orange hy Holbein. This Prince Avas married before he was ] b, to Mary, daughter of Charles I. He was a man of courage and enterprise ; but sullied his character, by aiming at arbitrary power ; and shortened his life, by chagrin at the disappointment of his views. His posthumous son, William, pursued a nobler course : he first secured the liberties of his own country ; and then offered himself, the protector of their rights and liberties, to the English nation, over whom he afterwards reigned equally and highly distinguished, by the wis- dom, and the beneficence of his government, and by the splendour and glory of his military exploits. Left side of the mantle-piece, above Portrait of A General with his truncheon ly Vandyck On the same side of the mantle-piece, below Rubens' first Wife by himself. Though it was the second wife of this great painter who was, so highly cele- brated for her exquisite beauty; yet, there appears no vrant of those charms which " the looker s eyes allure"* even in his first. Left side of the window, above- Portrait of A Lady by Sir Peter Lely. His pencil^ was light and delicate ; the attitudes of his figures, gracehil, natural, and well-cliosen ; the heads of his portraits remarkably S[)fiiscr. S rilltingtoii. OF THE CASTLE. 185 Fortrait of the Earl of' Linihay. fine and elegantly turned. His draperies have an agree- able negligence, with broad folds ; and, in that, and other respects, his works are easily distinguishable fi-om those of all other artists. In his female portraits, there is a pe- culiarity of expression, a languishing air, and a look of sweetness, blended with drowsiness in the eye ; and as this expression is the same in all, he is considered as a mannerist. The ladies were always pleased to be drawn by his hand, as he kneAv how to bestow beauty, where nature had denied it. It is justly said of him, that " he painted many fine pictures, but few good portraits." He died 168O. RiGiiTsideof the window, above Robert Bertie, Earl of Lindsay hy Corn.Janssen. The Earl of Lind- say was an able and valiant Commander ; and, on the breaking out of the civil war, was appointed General of the King's forces. At the battle of Edge Hill, he was mor- tally wounded ; whence he was brought prisoner to this Castle; where he almost immediately expired l642. His son, in endeavouring to rescue his father, was also taken prisoner, and was long a captive in the same castle. Here he wrote a very spirited, and, in some parts, even eloquent defence* of his Royal Master ; to whom he was fervently devoted, during all the . misfortunes of his life : and to whom he paid the last melancholy offices, after his death, by attending his remains to St. Georges Chapel, Windsor; where they were interred, and where they were lately found. ^Tliis is the one of the two acknowledged portraits in the present collection, by C. Janssen, who was born at Amsterdam, and appointed portrait painter to James I. His style of colouring is clear and lively ; his touch light. * a copy of ihis curious Parapiilei, publislied in 1643, i uow iu tlie pi>sesion of V.'iHiain Staunton, Esq. of Longbtidge, A A is6 STATE ROOMS Portrait of a Nobleman Spiinisfi Genera/. and his pencil truly delicatr. He had not the freedom, iior the grace of Vandyck ; l)ut, in other respects, he is accounted his equal ; and, in the finishing of his pictures, liis superior. His paintings, which are usually on hoard, are easily distingtiished hy their smooth, clear, and deli- cate touch ; and hy that character of truth and nature, with which they are so strongly marked. Left side of the window below Portrait of A Spanish General hi/ Vandych. KiGHT side of the window below A Nobleman hif Vandyck. He is, however, su])posed hy some, to he Lord Darnley, consort of the Scottish Oueen, more distinguished by beauty of person, than by any intellectual or moral worth. He murdered IIeggio, i'avourite of the (^UEEN ; and was himself murdered, in revenge, 156*6. Opposite the fire-place centre piece Ignatius Loy6la whole length hy Huhens. This picture was painted originally for the Jesuits College, at Antwerp ; and brought thence to England, not many years ago. It is generally esteemed the finest painting in the Castle ; and is, indeed, by the acknowledgment of the most critical judges, superlatively excellent. The expression of the countenance is great ;* the eye is finely raised to a burst of light; the robes are superb; and the fore-shortening of the hand and foot is managed with exquisite skill; they stem to advance from the canvas. Ignatius, celebrated as the " Wlien has a Hi VNOi.DSor a West, been able m animate tlicir ''aints nitli (hat " inp Tnntiirsl cost of icnrures, with ibal :n^' i,f I'riKuetlieaii li^lil, wlilcli a Raphafi, and a Krr.Evf. Iiave borrowed troni Heaven itjelf, bercwiih lo ii'spire tlit-ra ?" M'llntr'i Antiquitiet of fi'tiichfstcr. OF THE CASTLE. is; Portrait of Ignatius Lni/oUi. founder of the order of the Jesuits, originally an officer in the Spanish army, was a rnan of small abilities, and slight attainments in literatvire. .Wounded at the siege of Pampeluna, and confined, in consequence, to his chamber, his mind was turned, for amusement, to reading : and, among the books that were brought to him on such trifling accidents do great events sometimes depend ! his attention was caught by " The Lives of the Sahits''' Instantly his ardent imagination was fired with the idea of distinguishing himself, in the service of God : and he re- solved to become a Knight of the Holy Virgin Asso- ciating with four or five other persons, some of whom were far more able and artful than himself the Order of the Jesuits WAS, founded the most extensive, the most power- ful ; in some respects, the mos^^ actively useful ; and in many respect?, the most f,itally mischievous, of all the religious fraternities. But, in time, its usefulness diminished; whilst the injuries, it inflicted on mankind, grew in number and enormity, and became at length insupportable. This or- der began 1540 ; and was finally suppressed, with the ap- })robatioa of the whole Christian World, by Clement XIH. 17/'3.* But whatever evils aftenvards proceeded from it, they were certainly not within the contemplation of its founder a weak, but honest enthusiast ; whose sin- cere and sole view was, what he conceived to be the glory of God, and the good of Man. He died at Rome, 1536*. The lines J in the book, held by Ignatius, may thus be given in English. " Whosoever, with a view to promote the glory of God, devotes himself to the service of Jesus Robertson's Cliarles V. % All fHajoram Dei Gioriani qiiicunque liuic Jesn Clirlsii niilitise nomen dedprint, die nocteque juccincii lumbos, et ad tain grniidis debili solutiouem, [:rooipti csie debt'iit. A A 2 188 STATE ROOMS f'oi trnit of the Km I of' t^orthuwbtr'.und--t'liarles I. Earl of Struffcrd, Christ, in this society, ought to gird up his loins, and to be constantly vigilant and active, in discharging the duties of an engagement, so greatly and solemnly im- portant.'* Opposite the fire-place left side, below Alger- KON Percy, Earl of Northumberland hy Vandych. This nobleman was, in 1637, advanced to the dignity of Lord High Admiral. He was lofty in his carriage, and elevated in his sentiments of liberty. He took, therefore, the side of the Parliament, in their opposition to the arbitrary measures of the misguided Charles. For this, he was deprived of his Commission ; which was bestowed upon Rich Earl of Warwick ; whose portrait is also in the same room. Opposite the fire-place left side, above Charles I. by Vandych. When one of Vandyck's portraits of this Prince was shewn to the famous sculp- tor, Bernini, he is said to have pronounced it, the most unfortunate physiognomy he ever saw ! Opposite the fire-place right side, above ^Tho- mas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford hy Vandych. Tliis Nobleman was one of the most distinguished persons of the age, in which he lived. At first, a bold and most able leader of the popular party, in the turbulent reign of Charles I. he afterwards openly deserted, and vehemently opposed it. It is impossible to acquit him from the charge, of promoting too much those arbitrary measures, which led to his own ruin ; and, in the end, to that of his Royal Master. But the sentence, which condemned him to die, against every principle of law and justice, stamps with OF THE CASTLE. I89 Portrait of D'lVilla Rick Earl of Warwick. deepest disgrace the character, both of the people, who demanded it, and of the Prince, who suffered it to be executed. He was beheaded on Tower Hill^ May 12, 1641, and bowed to all the cniel and unjust severities of his fate, with a firmness of mind, and dignity of manner, which have rarely been exceeded. Opposite the fire-place right side, below Henry Catharine Davilla bi^ Tintoretto. DAViLLAwas born in Cyprus ; but went early to France, where he served in the army, with credit. He afterwards settled at Venice \ where he received an honourable pension. He was killed by a pistol-shot, on a journey from Padua to Verona, 1634. He wrote, in Italian, " The History of the Civil " Wars in France^ including a period of 40 years, end- ing 1589- BoLiNGBROKE scHiples uot to place him in rank, as an historian, next to Livy. This is a good ])or- trait, by one of the f^rst masters of the Venetian School. His manner of painting is described as bold, with strong lights, opposed by deep shadows ; his pencil is wonderfully firm and free, his disposition good, his execution easy, his touch lively and spirited : and, in colouring, he ap- proached near to Titian. Yet his works are very un- equal ; so that it was said of him, " he appears sometimes " equal to Titian, and sometimes inferior to himself." Opposite the window left side of the door Robert Rich, Earl of Warwick whole length % Vandych. He was the second Earl of that family ; and was created Lord High Admiral of England, for whi.h he appeared not sufficiently qualified. He was handso..:3 in his person, and facetious in his conversation : reii.;'i{)us in his professions, but licentious in his morals. He died, 1608, 190 STATE ROOMS / fit rait ot Friiic) liyett drl Honing iiihlilr% Gin rrith a feather. Opposite the window, right side of the door Prince Rupert a fine whole-length hy f^andyck. He was the son of the Elector Palatine and Elizabeth, daughter of James I. When his Uncle, Charles I. raised the Royal Standard at Nottivgham, he came over, to support his cause. " As a military officer," says Gran- ger, " he M as rash, even to temerity : he seldom engaged, but he obtained the advantage, which he again lost, by pursuing it too lar." After he liad too precipitately sur- rendered Bristol to Fairfax, he retired in disgrace to the Continent. In the Court of Charles II. he was again received into favour : and was promoted to the com- mand of the British fleet. Here his impetuous valor was in its true element. He died 1693. Opposite the window, right corner, above A Girl blowing bubbles hy Murillo. This Spanish ar- tist greatly excelled as an historical Painter ; but his fa- vourite subjects were boys and girls, placed in various atti- tudes, and engaged in different amusements. These he usually designed after nature, and gave them a good and strong expression. He had an exquisite pencil ; his co- louring is mellow, and produces a suq^rising effect by the clearness of his tints, skilfully opposed by proper shadows; and there is a striking character of truth and nature, in all his paintings. The Spaniards boast that Murillo be- came a great painter without ever travelling out of Spain. Opposite the window, left corner, above A Girl with a feather hy Murillo. A companion to the former. Opposite the window, right corner, below Portrait of Machiavel hy Fandyck, A copy from Titian, paint- OF THE CASTLE. 191 Portrait of Machiuvel Marquis of Huntley Burgomaster Earl of Strafford. ed at Florence. Machiavel, a celebrated Florentine winter, united the liveliest wit, with the profoundest reflection ; and composed comedies, whilst he was writing a political liistory of his country. " He was," says Mr. Uoscoe, "an acute, but not a great man." This is considered as a very characteristic portrait ; the fire of the eye, and the sagacity of the countenance, mark, at once, boldness and depth of thought. Opposite the window left corner, below Mar- ftuis OF Huntley bi/ V^andyck, Over the centre door Portrait of A Burgo- Af aster Painter unknown. Over the east door is a second portrait of the Earl of Strafford hi/ Vandyck nearly opposite to the first. '' In his person" says Sir Philip Warwicke, of this Nobleman, whom he knew% " he w'as of tall stature, but stooped much in the neck. His countenance was cloudy, whilst he moved or sat, thinking : but when he .spoke, seriously, or facetiously, he had a lightsome and very pleasant ayre : and indeed, whatever he did, he did gracefully." Over the west door Henrietta Maria hy T^an- dyck. The countenance lively, tlie drapery very fine companion to the portrait of her consoit Charles I. in the same room. ^This beautiful and accomplished Princess was the daughter of Henry IV. of France, and inherited much of her father's noble and generous spirit ; by her many amiable qualities, both of person and di^^posiilon, she deserved, and she obtained, the tenderest affections of 192 STATE ROOMS Portrait of Henrietta Maria State Bed Room. ter Imsband : but her judgment was not entitled to all that deference, with which it was regarded by him. It w?is she, who advised or promoted, many of the rash and inconsiderate measures, adopted by that unfortunate Mo- narch, contraiy to his own natural and cautious prudence. *' And yet" says Granger, " whoever looks at her charm- ing portraits, will cease to wonder at even the excess of her influence over her husband's mind." In one of How- ell's Letters, who lived at the time, her person is thus described. " We have now a most noble new Queen of " England ; who, in true beauty, is much beyond the long ** wooed Infanta. This daughter of France^ this young- ** est branch of Bourbon, is of a more lovely and lasting *' complexion, a dark brown. She has eyes that sparkle " like stars : and, for her physiognomy, she may be said " to be a mirror of perfection." The last days of this unhajipy Princess were not only saddened with sorrow, but even distressed by pecuniar}^ necessities : and Histor)' weeps, when she records the fact, that the illustrious daughter of Henry the Great, and the Queen of Charles I. was reduced to the extremity of lying in bed, for want of fuel for a fire ! In the end, it appears, she was secretly married to Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Alhans ; who, however, treated her with neglect, and even with cruelty. She died in France 1669. state bed room. The bed and furniture of this room are of crimson velvet, embroidered with green and yellow silk. They bc'ongtd to Out en Anne : and were given, by the present King, to the l;:te Eat I of irarwkk. 'Ihe room is hung with taptstr} , \\ hich appears by the date of it, to have OF THE CASTLE. 193 Bust of Edward 'he HiacK Prince. been made at Brussels, l604. It is supposed to repre- sent the Gardens of P^ersailles, as they were at that time. -^The chimney-piece, executed by Westmacott, is re- markably handsome. It is formed of verd antique and white marble. Two black marble vcises stand on its man- .^ tie ; and a bronze copy of the JBorghese f^ase on the hearthv Here is a Cabinet highly curious, made of ebony, inlaid with wood of various shades and colours, beautifully representing flowers, birds, and various animals* On this Cabinet, stands a chrystal cup, mounted, between two en- graved chrystal vials. Behind, are a bronze lion and lioness. On another cabinet, opposite the window, is an essence vase, of the old enamel^ on copper mounted on or moulou, Here, also, placed on a table, in the window, is a bust, in white marble, of Edward the Black Prince that greatest of British heroes, whose pure and illustrious name, is fitted to adorn and dignify, not his own rude age only, but the most splendid period of ancient or modern his- tory.* The power of language is, indeed, unequal to the great and extraordinary merits, which raised him so tran- scendently high ; and diffused around him a blaze of glory never to be extinguished or obscured. Among the most perfect and the most exalted of human characters, which the pen of History has traced, that of Edward, the Black Prince, will ever be contemplated with proud de- light, mingled with almost awful veneration. ^The head 194 STATE ROOMS Portrait of the Dutchess of Parma Family Portrait. of this bust is exceedingly fine,|| bnt the chest is too much flattened. It is supposed to be the work of Weldon. The paintings in this room are the three following: Over the mantle-piece INIargaret, Dutchess of Parma hi/ Titian She was tlie natural daughter of the JS?7iperor Charles V. and was Regent of the A^etJierlands, in the reign of Phillip 1 1. This is a grand whole length, by the great master of colouring ; whose height of excel- lence, in this department of the art, few have approached, and none have reached. He is the father of portrait-paint- ing ; and knew how to give resemblance with form, character with dignity, grace with sim})licity, and costume with taste. In general, however, his male portraits are not designed so correctly or elegantly, as those of his females : yet his colouring has ever the look of real life, and his figures breathe. " Above all others," says Gilpin, J " Titian's art ** of realising life excites our admiration. How often have " I stood gazing at his portraits of celebrated personaaes, " till I have seen them move, and heard them speak." This illustrious artist was born in Friuli, a Venetian pro- vince ; studied first at f^enice, afterwards at Rome ; and closed a long life of splendid reputation and uninterrupted health, at the uncommon age of 96. Over the east door A Family Portrait />?/ Sir Peter Lely. That tender languishmenf, before* noticed, as his peculiar manner of expression, is here very apparent. (1 III Uie family of Lord Onslow, is a head of ilie i?/acfc Prince, which ilierc ;<i r^aion to beliewe wn painted at the tirm^ It is not Ty ill done. It rtpretf irts liini in a black nrniour, einboJied with gold, with a golden lion on lii? breast, lie has a liiit on. with a while feather, and a large ruby. He appears Uan and pale, as he wa^tolrd the ci.d of life. Wulpokt' Anecdotes. $ FostLi. t Dialogue* p. 387. * Page 135. OF THE CASTLE. 195 Portrait of the Earl of Essex Dressing Room. Over the east door-^RoBERX Devereux, Earl of Essex bi/ Federigo Zuccaro^-a.n Italian painter, who came into England, in the reign of Elizabeth. He possessed considerable genius ; his colouring produces! great effect ; and his drawing is generally good. Though some defects have been pointed out, particularly in the hair of his heads, yet his paintings are highly priz- ed ; and will for ever entitle him to be considered, as a very eminent master. Tiiis portrait is an undoubted original of a generous, high spirited, and accomplished Nobleman, the favourite of the people, as well as of the Sovereign. *^ But he was too open and honest" says Granger, " for a Court." Tlie dark and deliberate malice of his enemies took advantage of his warmth of temper ; and hurried him on to those fatal extremities, which ended in his death, on the scaffold, Feb. 25, 1601. His character displayed many shining; virtues. He was brave, sincere, and affectionate. His unfortunate end has formed the subject of four different tragedies. state dressing room. This is a beautiful little room, hung with pea- green satin. The ceiling is elegant: and the prospect, which the large windows afford, strikingly attractive extending, from a new point of view, over the slopes and swells, the clustered trees, the spreading groves, and winding waters, of the large and noble park, terminated by the blue hills in the distance. The elegant rialto of one arch, formerly to be seen from these windows, is now intercepted from the view, by the thickening and enlarging shades of the surrounding woods. B B 2 196 STATE ROOMS Pot'.ruic of a hoi/ Dutchess of i'ltveluud Skelih fMndscape. On a cabinet, stands a small model of the Sar- \/ coPHAGUS of Jgrippina, in lava: and underneath, a caak- et for jewels, formed of the pietra commessa. Here, also, are to be seen, a copy of the Medici Lion, and sev^al Etruscan vases* The paintings, which are very numerous, are a follow ; Over the mantle-piece A Boy with a Racket AND Ball bi/ Paul Veronese the ^reat master of what is called the ornamental style. His real nanie was Paolo Cagliari; he was bom at Verona, and died 1588. On the left side of the mantle-piece BarbarV Villiers, Dutchess of Cleveland. She was the daugh- ter and heiress of William Lord Grandison, and wife of Roger Palmer, afterwards Earl oj Castlemaine. Though proud, she stooped to the lowest amours : but at last became one of the numerous jVlistresses of Charles H. and, when discarded by him, was created Dutchess of Cleveland. She, then, married the celebrat- ed Beau Fielding ; by whom she Avas cruelly treated ; and from whom she at length obtained a divorce, on proving against him a charge of bigamy. She died 1709- On the left side of the mantle-piece Sketch of THE FOUR Evang.-:lists hy Rubens highly valuable. Same side Landscape hy Salvator Rosa rock, stunted trees, and awful desolation. On the right side of the mantle-piece Portrait of A Lady. OF THE CASTLE. 197 Portrait of the Earl and of the Duke of' Bedford A Storm and Wreck. On the same side William Russell, First Duke of Bedford He was the father of the patriotic Lord William Russell, who was so wickedly beheaded in the reign of Charles H. During the civil war, he was a General of Horse on the side of the Parliament. He afterwards sincerely concurred in the restoration of Charles H. ; and, finally, hailed with joy the glorious revolution of 1668. From the rank of Earl, he was ad- vanced to that of Duke, by William III. and, in the preamble to the patent, the virtues of his illustrious son, are expressly stated, as the reasons, which induced the monarch to confer upon the father, that high distinction. He died 1700. On th?. same side Francis, Second Earl of Bedford bi/ Vandyck. He was the Father of the first Duke : and, like the rest of his illustrious family, in all times, nobly supported the glorious cause of freedom, and of his country, during the trying and critical times of Charles L He died 1641. On the same side centre A Storm and Wreck by William Vandervelde, the younger superlatively ex- cellent a favorite picture of Sir Joshua Reynolds. In the beauty of his design, the correctness of his drawing, the graceful forms and positions of his vessels, the lightness of his clouds, the clearness and vari ty of his serene skies, as well as the gloomv horror of tlose that are stormy, the liveliness and tran^pave'Cv ^)f Ins colouring, the look of genuine nature that ap].. ;irs !.oth in his agitated and his still waters, and tie e vqui ite gradations, as well as perspective truth of bis, di tar -es hi all these respects, the productions of ihis i.arivalled artist 198 STATE ROOMS Fdttrai' of lutl'C. Lniidxaipe Boi/ Henry IV. display, in their highest degrees, taste, judgment, and genius. What Raphael is in Historical painting, Van-^ DERVELDE is in Sea Pieces, On the same side Martin Luther a fine half- length by Holbein. ^Erasmus said of this inti'epid re- former, whose temper was vehement and impetuous, even to excess " God has bestowed upon mankind, so violent " a physician, in consequence of the magnitude of their dis- *' eases.'* And he said of himself " my rind is indeed ** very hard, but my core is soft and delicate ; for indeed ** 1 wish ill to no one." " The ardent spirit of Luther," says one of his Biographers " shone out in his eyes, which " were so sparkling, that no one could bear to look at " them. And it is recorded, that an assassin, who had gained admittance into his chamber, was so terrified by the lightning of his eye, and the stern dignity of his man- ner, that he was compelled to desist from his horrid purpose. Notwithstanding the number, and power, and malignity of his foes, Luther died quietly in his bed, at Eisleben, Feb. l6, 1546. On the same side Landscape with figures hi/ Salvator Rosa. companion to one before mentioned iu his usual style of" savage grandeur, and sublime repose." On the same side Boy in armour. South window left side Portrait of one of Charles' Beauties. On the same side Henry IV. by Patoun a small and beautiful whole length in a plain black dress. OF THE CASTLE. 19$ A Sorceress and Companion Girl. <of tbattraly illustrious monarch of France, whose extraor- dinary virtues and talents gave him a just claim, in a cer- tain degree, to the title of Great, and in a still higher degree, to that of Good. Voltaire calls him *^ His subjects Con- queror, and their father too.'** His reign, as described by the Abbe de Moralles, was the reign, as of a beneficent deity, watching with guardian care, over the happiness of a nation ; and the close of it was, says he, '* the end of a great many blessings, and the beginning of a great many miseries to his country and to mankind.'' By the inscru- table decrees of Providence, the dagger of a mad enthu- siast, was permitted to rob his age of its glory, and bis people of their public father. May 14, 1610. South window left side A Sorceress hi/ Te- nters the younger. He was a painter of extraordinary ge- nius. His pencil is free and delicate ; the touching of his trees is light and firm ; his skies are admirable ; and, though not much varied, are clear and brilliant ; and the expres- sion of his figures, whether mirthful or grave, in angiy or ])leasant mood, are always strongly marked, and strikingly natural. He had the peculiar art of relieving his lights, by other lights, without employing deep sliadows, and yet producing the intended effect in a surprising manner. South window, right side Portrait of A Girl, said to be one of Lord Robert Brooke's children. Same side Triton and Sea Horses a studv hi/ Vandych. Same side Companion to the Sorceress by Tenters the second of the three paintings, by the same Ki I'll tie tcs sDjtts Ic va;>i<j(iciit el le i.ei?. HeiiriHde C. It 6. 'yH'- 200 STATE ROOMS ]\lrs. Digl'j/ Iwo Htads a Sebastian Interior of a Church. eminent master, in this room of whose excellence, in the general estimation, the incredible prices given for his works, in all parts of Europe, afford iucontestible evidence. West window left side Mrs. Digby, in the (Tress of a Lady Abbess held in high estimation by Gerhard Douw a native of Ley den and, in his finish- ing, the most extraordinary of all the Flemish masters. His pictures usually are of small size,with figures so exqui- sitely touched, so transparent, so wonderfully delicate, as to excite astonishment, no less than pleasure. He designed every object after nature ; and, in colour, freshness, and force, each object appears as perfect as Nature herself. In painting portraits, he made use of concave mirrors. Hd bestowed upon all his works most patient and persevering labour; and yet there is in them, no appearance of stiffness no diminution of vigour. West window, left side Two heads of old MEN STUDYING MUSIC a sketcli by Rubens amazingly fine. Same side A Sebastian a sketch by f^'andych. West window, right side Portrait of one of Charles' Beauties. Same side Bacchanalian Boys. After Fan- iyck. Same side View or the interior of a Church by De Jfltte light shining ui)on the pillars ex- tremely well managed. Opposite the south window centre piece A Guard Room, with Armour by Teniers. ^This is the OF THE CASTLE. 201 Portrait of a Boy of Anne Boleyn. third of the invahiable productions of this great artist whose usual subjects, besides such as the present, were landscapes with figures, merry-makings, fairs, shooting at butts, playing at bowls, and the sports or occupations of villagers. This is highly esteemed. Opposite the south window above, centre Por- trait of A Boy hy Vandyck. Same: side above, left Anne Boleyn* small half length hy Holbein. " This beautiful Queen," says Granger, '^ fell a sacrifice to the violent passions of Henry VHI. to his anger, for bringing him a dead son ^to his jeahusy, for the innocent but indiscreet peculia- rities of her behaviour and, above all, to his affection for Jane SeYxMOUR, whom he married the very day after she was beheaded, May 19, 1536." This is a fine portrait ; though some have considered the countenance as deficient in those " sweet eye-glaunces" and that " lovely pleasance, which robs sence from the hart."-}- Nothing, however, could be more unfavourable to the representation of beauty, than the dress of those times, particularly the angular coif- fure, and the scrupulous concealment of the hair. The following description of lliis Queen, given by Lord Herbert, in his arlrnirable liistory of Henry VIII. is taken from a curious life of Cardinal Wolsey, hy Siu Wii liam Cavendish, his gentleraaii usher, first published in 1641, and again in 1761. " SJie was of singular beauue and towardnesse, and her parents took ail care possible for her good education. Therefore, besides the ordinary parts of virtuous instructions, they gave lier teachers in playing on musical instruments, singing and dancing, insomncii, that when she composed her hands to play, and voice to sing, it was joined with that sweetness of toua- tenance, that three harmonies concurred. ' Likewise when she danced, her rare proportions varied themselves into all the graces, that belong either to rest or molion." j Dallo'.^ny's Anecdotes, + Sper.ter. C C 202 STATE ROOMS Portrait of (lathcriue Bolej/n An Old Woman Peter in Prisoti. Same side above right Catherine Boleyn 1)1/ Holbein She was Aunt and Governess to the Princess, afterwards Queen Elizabeth, ^This is a beautiful small half-length Here at least, is loveliness, of the most attrac- tive kind animation, simplicity, softness, and sweetness. This is the third of the portraits in this room hi/ Hans Holbein, who was born at Basle, in 1498, and died in 1554. He painted equally well in oil, water colours and distemj)er ; in large and in miniature. He generally chose for his paint- ings a green ground; but in his small pictures, the ground is frequently blue. His pencil is exceedingly delicate; his colouring has a wonderful degree of force ; his carnations are highly exquisite ; and all his pictures are distinguished by the amazing neatness and exactness of his fiiiisliing But, with all his abundance of merit, something of the (jerman taste prevails in most of his works. " He was tiiic," says Gilpin, " to * the lines of nature, in whatever form he found them : though he would neither give his iigures that grace and dignity ; nor draw from his pallet that glow of colouring, which we admire so much in Titian." On the same side of the room below, centre An old woman eating pottage lamp light excellent bi/ Gerhard Douiv, Same side ^Ijelow left Peter in prison by Henry Steenwych, the younger. Same side below right Peter delivered FROM prison companion to the former by Steenwych. This artist, who excelled in painting architecture and per- * Dialogues page 56'.'. OF THE CASTLE. 203 Peter delivered. epective, was introduced to the Court of Charles I. by J^andyck, and received all the encouragement due to his great merits. His usual subjects were the inside of Churches and Gothic edifices ; every column and cornice of which he painted with the utmost precision ; and dis- tributed his lights and shades with such judgment, as to produce astonishing effect. His portrait is drawn by f^andyck, and placed amongst the distinguished artists of his time.* ^^ * 111 sketcliiiig ilie short notices of the diffcrem Painier*. whote naims are iiittoduced in the precediii;; pagts, Filkington's Dictionary has been chiefly coniulled. t C 2 204 SMALLER APARTMENTS Compass IVimhw View of the Interior of a Church, i^c. CHAP. XXII. finance ^partmcntiS of t^t Cajeftle, Ssc. Compass Window Inside of a Church, i^c. Ganymede, SfC. Armoury Pas- sage Curious Petrifactions, SfC. British Armouey Doublet of Lord Brooke, ^c. Chapel Passage Portrait of Cromteell of Shakespeare Jbrandff SfC. I'he Chapel. Jj ROM the Gili Room, a door opens into i small apartment, called the COMPASS WINDOW. This Window is filled with painted glass, some part of which is supposed to have been the work of Rubens. It was brought from Flanders, purchased by the present Earl of PFarwick ; and put together by Mr. A. Pether. The paintings here, are Ganymede better known under the name of Hebe, Goddess of Health hi/ Guerchino an Italian painter of eminence. He died 1666. Inside of a Church a fine transparency by Jervais, who excelled in subjects of this kind though deemed an artist of no great merit in other respects, not- withstanding the fine praises, with which he is so lavishly decked out in the complimentary verses of Pope. A Battle Piece, hy Schut. A Sea Fight, hy Vandervelde. Head of an Old Man, hy Rubens. Still Life, hy Kalf. Fruit, by Campedoglio. Portrait of A Female, by Pourbus, OF THE CASTLE. 205 Armoury Fussage Armour of Cromwell, ^'C. In a short passage, to the right of the Compass Window, are the three following paintings : Portrait of an Italian supposed to be bi/ Titian. Portrait of a Laughing Boy capital said to be KilligreWj the famous Jester at the Court of Charles II. A Storm at Sea hy Ludolph Bachhuysin, a native of Embden. No artist ever studied nature, in all her forms, more attentively in gales, calms, storms, clouds, rocks, skies, lights, and shadows ; and, in all his paintings, he displays the genius of a master. armoury passage. This apartment might well deserve the more ex- pressive name of The Museum. It contains a collection of curiosities ; many of rare occurrence, and of inestima- ble value ; and, in the whole, so numerous, that their names alone would form a long catalogue. Suspended round the wall, and disposed in pleas- ing arrangement, are specimens of armour, ancient and modern, collected from all quarters of the globe among which are culivers, ancient cross bows, battle axes, pikes, Roman swords, arquebuses, ancient daggers, muskets, helmets and chain armour, quivers, arrows, tomahawks, Persian bows of steel : and, over the door, is the armour of Oliver Cromwell. Besides this rare and various collection of armour, there are here to be seen, in Xhejirst window, a large tooth of an animal unknown ; part of the trunk of a tree petrified and various other curious petri- factions. Before the second window, on a slab, formed of petrified shells, and surrounded with a statuary border, are placed the figure of an Infant Christ, with the cross, in 2oG SMALLER APARTMENTS British Artnotiry Chapel Passage. bronze, small ; and a large Bust of Demosthenes, in bronze. In this window are, also to be seen two Eques- trian figures of Roman Emperors on Horseback, on copper enamel two bronze has reliefs of Roman Em- perors, two bronze sphinx, and various petrifactions. In the third window, are a piece of the roch of Gibraltar , and various petrifactions. In the fourth window, are a lock of a Convent, of wonderful intricacy, and exquisite work- manship a small hand-bell, of which the handle is formed of four figures, united, with an inscription round it, bearing date 1547 ; the figure of a gladiator in bronze; and two figures of boxers, also in bronze. BRITISH armoury. Passing through a door, beyond the fourth win- dow, is the entrance into the British Armoury ; which contains the best collection of old English armour, in the kingdom. Among many other articles are a very fine and complete suit of fluted armour,* brought from Ger- many the armour of the Duke of Monmouth^ the doublet in which Lord Brooke was killed at Lichfieldy when reconnoitering, by a man known by the name of Dumb Dyott and an arquebuse of enormous size, taken from a French ship of war. chapel passage. Returning through the Armoury Passage, beyond the Compass Iflndow, is a door leading into the Chapel Passage. Here, besides the large picture of Charles I. on HORSEBACK, before noticed J are the following portraits. Two View* of this are given in Grosk's Antknt Armoury, page 43, 44. S 01 tiiis also arc iwo View, Ibid, page 4.i, 46. t ?<> 16'' OF THE CASTLE. 207 Portrait of Oliver Cromwell ofShaheapeure of a Mohawh Chief. On the same side as the window Oliver Crom- well in armour Ji/ Robert Walker* whom the Pro- tector himself preferred to every other painter and by whom his portrait was certainly drawn several times. It is well known that the Grand Dahe of Tuscany gave ^500, to a relation of Cromwell's, for one of his pictures by JValker. This is now in the gallery of the Old Palace at Florence where there is also a celebrated cast of his face, of which, Lord Cork, who had seen it, remarks^ that *' it bears the strongest characteristics of boldness, steadi- ness, sense, penetration and pride." " Cromwell has al- ways been regarded by foreigners," says Granger, " and ** of late years, by the generality of his countrymen, as the *' greatest man this nation ever produced. Yet it has *^ been disputed whether he deseiTed more a halter or a *'^ crown ? and there is no less disparity between the cha- " racter drawn of him by his friends and his enemies. " Colonel Lindsay affirmed that he saw him enter into a " formal contract with the devil ; and Dawbeny has " drawn a parallel betwixt Moses the Man of God, and " Oliver, the Protector. He died in his bed, on the 3d of " September, a day which he had long esteemed fortunate, in the year l658." Portrait of Shakespeare in a sitting posture- composing. Portrait of Buakdt, the Mohawk Chief hy Romney in the best style of that master " whose paint- * A duplicate of tliis picture is in the possession of a brother of the writer ol liiese pages, whose mother's grandfather, Mu/or Cromwell, was second son of Ht.sRy Cromweli , the Lerd Lieutenant (f htland, and was bonk in Duhlin Cmtle, at the ti)"- "i iii-iather'> r*.-sidente iu ^hal couutrjf. 208 STATE ROOxMS I'orttdit of Rubens' second Wife of a General by Rubens of Locke. *' ings are conceived,'* says Flaxman, " in an elevated " spirit of dignity and beauty, with a lively expression of " nature in all its parts. His heads were various ; his " male was decided and grand ; his females, lovely ; his " figures resemble the antique ; the limbs were elegant, and " finely formed ; and his draperies were well understood ; " and constituted, indeed, one of his chief excellencies.'* Side opposite the Window^ Head in the man- ner of Rubens. Rubens* second Wife % himself'. ^This is the lady so celebrated for her exquisite beauty ; the contem- plation of which is said to have been of important use to the great painter, in delineating the figures of his females. Portrait of a Bishop. Portrait of a Lady hy Vandych. Portrait of a General hy Rubens. Portrait of Thomas Thynne, Esa. noted for his affluence and his uncommon benevolence,whence he gained the name of " Tom of Ten Thousand'" He w^as murdered in his coach, soon after his marriage to hady Eliz. Piercy, by three assassins, supposed to be hired ])y Count Konings- marJxj who had made some advances to the same Lady. Portrait of Locke " who was in metaphysics what Newton was in the higher mathematics and as the one led mankind to the knowlediie of the material world, by which they are suiTounded ; so the other conducted them to the knowledge of the ideal world within themselves. OF THE CASTLE. 209 The Chapel. ' I ill 1 1 I II I I 1 1 II THE CHAPEL. Through tlie long passage, just mentioned, is the approach, by which strangers are usually conducted to the Chapel. From this, a small door leads into the interior. But the principal entrance is opposite to this ; where, folding doors open into a vestibule with which a flight of stone steps communicate, from the inner court of the Castle. The Chapel is of suitable size, well proportioned, and fitted up in a style of simple elegance. In the outer division, are the seats fdr the servants ; and in the inner, those for the family. The lofty ceiling is finely formed with small pendant capitah, and adorned with the arms of the family. The altar-piece is of oak, carved and surmounted with a canopy^ extending from it over the two adjoining seats. Opposite, in a gallery, is placed the or- gan. The Gothic windows are filled with painted glass ; of which that over the altar is the gift of the Earl of Es- sex. The light admitted is exactly of that kind, which the great poet of England so happily terms " dim religious light ;" and, through the whole interior of this beautiful oratory, an air of soft and composed solemnity prevails usually considered as so highly favourable to the exercises, and to all the serious sentiments, of 'devotion. D D 210 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Private Apartments, CHAP. XXII. 3^ntate SOpattmentje? of tl^e Cattle. (not open to public inspection.) Breakfast Room.- Family of Charles I. Portraits of a Warrior Wife of Snyder Two Ltons, by Kubens Portrait of Spinola Gondomar Cap- tain of the Dutch Guards. Waiting Room. Portrait of Old Parr Second Lord Brooke. Little Study. Portrait 0/ Henrietta Maria. Library. Portrait of a School Boy. Red Bedchamber. Duke of Buckingham and his Brother Prince Rupert and Maurice Fruit, by M. Angelo A Nun. Red Dressing Room. View of the Interior of a. Church Venice A Sea Piece. Passage A Landscape A Study A Sea Fight Charles L Shakespeare. Henry Vlll. Queen Elizabeth'^ Mary Queen of Scots Sir Philip Sidney. Domestic Offices, &c. J_-iEAVING the State Rooms of the Castle, and eu- tering the Private Apartments, the air of grandeur, which strikes so much in the former, is at once exchanged for that of domestic convenience and comfort, which mark the whole appearance of the latter exciting in the mind, instead of ideas of pomp and splendour, of crouded courts and hrilliant assemblies, the more pleasing thoughts of quiet enjoyment, and the delights of family or friendly inter- course. These latter apartments, however, in the absence of every other beauty or ornament, would still be con- sidered as highly embellished, by the many^we/?am/ew^* which adorn them ; of which we are permitted to give some account ^though we must again repeat, to prevent all danger of disappointment, they are not exhibited to the view of the public. OF THE CASTLE. 211 Breakfast Room Famiti/ of Charles I. 'Portrait of' a Warrior. BREAKFAST ROOM. This is a good family room, delightfiilly pleasant, as, indeed, are all the rooms, looking to the south, from the beautiful and extensive prospect, which the windows afford. Here is to be seen a slab, one of the largest and finest of the kind known, formed of pietra dura, next in hardness, and also in value, to the precious stones. The pedestal is of the same material as the slab ; and, the whole must have been a work of im- mense labor. This table was once in the possession of the King of Naples, who gave for it 3,000 sequins, or about ^1,500. In this apartment are the following paintings : Over the mantle-piece ^The Family of Charles I. hy Vandyck. ^The portraits are whole-lengths, taken in their infancy, of Charles II., of James II., and of Mary, Princess of Orange. Right side of the mantle-piece, Portrait of a Warrior, by Rembrandt. ^This admirable picture, once in the possession of Sir Joshua Reynolds, is generally supposed to represent Achilles ; but the armour is mo- dern. Rembrandt, one of the most famous masters of the Dutch School, formed a manner entirely his own, by studying and imitating nature, which he copied in its most simple dress ; but, in the selection of objects, he shewed that he had little notion of grace or elegance. His invention, however, was fertile , his imagination lively and active ; and his colouring most surprising. His car- nations are as true, as fresh, and as perfect as those of Titian : but there is this diiference, that tbe colouring DD 2 912 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Portrait q/' Sni/der's Wife Tzvo Lions, by Rubens. of Titian will admit of near inspection, whilst that of Rembrandt must he viewed at a convenient distance. His portraits are excellent ; but from the subjects he usually painted, though they are exact likenesses, anci have the true look of life, yet, in the air and attitude, grace and dignity are wanting. He died 1764. Left side of the mantle-piece, The Wife of Snyder, bt/ Fandyck. ^This is a fine picture, in the best style of that great master. Snyder was a distin- guished painter of the Flemish School ; and was held in such high estimation by Rubens, and by Jordaens, that they often borrowed his assistance in some of their great- est works ; and as often afforded their's in return, to him. The joint productions of three such celebrated p^iinters are considered, by some, as more estimable, on that very account, than even their separate works. Opp#site the fire-place, centre-piece, Tv/o Lions, by Ruhens, painted from the life, and said to be the onlv^ ones he ever saw alive. When the great painter had proceeded some way, in portraying these noble ani- mals, it is said, he wished to mark their appearance in the act of roaring ; and, for that purj^ose, the keeper ven- tured to pluck one of them by the whiskers. The attempt succeeded for several days ; but, on the fifth day, Ruhevs observed such signs of anger as created serious alarm, and induced him to advise the keeper to desist from the dan- gerous attempt in future. The hint was o])served for a time, but was afterwards forgotten ; and the dread- ful conse(jiicnce was, tlie enraged animal tinck down the keeper, and lay upon him, the whole day. In the evening, the lion was ordered to be shot, by a party of the Guards, . OF THE CASTLE. 213 Fo?- trait of Spinola, In/ lixbcns. under the command of an ancestor of Mr. De Corte, a painter of eminence, lately deceased, on whose authority, this story is told. The lion was killed ; hut, in the agonies of his death, horrid to relate ! the wretched keeper was torn to pieces. This nohle production of one of the greatest of painters, who excelled pre-eminently in the delineation of heasts, especially those of the savage kind, was once in the possession of Prince Charles, of Lorraine. Opposite the fire-place ^left side^ MARauis of Spinola hi/ Ruhens. Spinola is here drawn in armour ; round his left arm is a sash ;. his sword-hasket is hiked ; and in his left hand is a truncheon. He was of an illustrious family, in Genoa, and one of the great military heroes of his age. Till his 30th year, he lived in the tranquil en- ' joyment of private life. But though he entered thus late into the army, yet he soon rose to high reputation ; and was, in l604, appointed commander-in-chief of the Spanish army, in the Low Country. Here he was opposed to Prince Maurice, of Nassau^ the first general of his time; against whom, it is high praise to say, that he contended with glory and success.* But afterwards, commanding iu Italy, at the siege of Casal, though he had actually taken the town ; and had closely invested the citadel ; yet his plans were suddenly interrupted, and finally defeated, by new and absurd orders from Spain. Vexation arising from -unexpected defeat, and from most unmerited disgrace, preved upon liis spirits ; and laid the foundation of a disease, which quickly ended in his death, l630. His last words were, "they have robbed me of my glory ! " * " Le Comte Maurice de Nassau, le lieros dc son siocle," s;iys ilie Frer.cii liiogra. pher, " lut I'licmiiuf, coatre lequel il eul i comballre ; et il se moiitia ausbi boii capitaiiic que lui." 214 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Portriiit of Gondomur and of a Dutch Cuptuin. Opposite the fire-place right side Count Gon- DOMAR hf Falasquez de Silva. Gondomar, Ambassador from Spain, to James I. was one of the most perfect adepts ever known, in the art of duping and deceiving. His great instmment to move all to his purpose, was, " to please all;** and never was an instrument wielded by the hand of man, with greater dexterity and success. He had his lures pre- pared for all fawning for the great flattery for the vain pleasure for the voluptuous money for the avaricious affected love of learning for the scholar and most humble and assiduous courtship for the ladies, whose influence, even in state affairs, he knew, must not be overlooked. No trick so low or little, to which he did not descend, in order to entrap the smiles of others, and cheat them of themselves. Thus, amongst other means of conciliating or cozening James I. " to M^hom," says Rushworth,* " he had access more like an English favorite, than a *' P'oreign Ambassador," one was, to talk bad Latin before him, in order to give that egregious pedant, the proud gratification of correcting it. " Never was there a man,'* says Grainger, " who had so much art, with so little ap- pearance of it." ^Tliis is the only painting to be found in this collection, by the great Spanish Master, Velascluez, whose compositions are remarkable for strength of ex- pression, for a fieedom of pencil, a spirited touch, and such a tone of colour, as almost equals nature. Opposite the window Captain of the Dutch Guard hi/ Rembrandt. This is considered as one of the finest pictures now known, of tliat great master Avhose genuine works are extremely rare ; and, when they are to be purchased, obtain almost incredible price. HiJtOiical Collections, r. I. p. 14. OF THE CASTLE. 215 Waiting Room Old Farr Lord Brooke. WAITING ROOM. From the Breakfast Parlour, a door opens into a ^mall apartment, called the JVaiting Room, in which are two portraits ; the first is Old Parr b;(/ Vandych. He was a peasant of Shropshire, born 1483, and died at the most extraordinary age of 152. In his 120th year, he married a second wife, and had a child. In the summer of l635, he was carried by the Earl of Arundel, to London, and introduced as a prodigy, to Charles I. Among other questions, the King asked him, " since he had lived so much longer than other men, what he had done more than other men ?" *' I did penance," replied the hardy veteran, " when I was a hundred years old."* Change of air, and new modes of living, the consequence of his removal to London, occasioned his death, Nov. 5, in the same year. He was buried in Westminster Abbey. He was blind for the last I9 years of his life. He is drawn three quar- ters length, in a doublet, with a girdle, in which is his left hand, and his right rests on a stick. The picture is of inferior execution, though painted by so great an artist as Vandyck, for so great a personage as the King of England. ^The other portrait is Robert, the second Lord Brooke Some ac- count has already been given of this high-spirited and accomplished Nobleman, who fell at the siege of Lick- field ; and who, in taking the side of the Parliament, against the misjudging Monarch, by the confession of his very enemies, acted from motives of purest patriotism. * Peck's Historical Pieces, p. 51. i P. 40. 216 PRIVATE APARTMENTS IJlf/e Studi/ Librurt/ Red Bedchamber. He id drawn, wearing a breast-plate ; and under it, appears the doublet, in which he was killed, and which may be seen, stained with blood, amongst the collection in the old British Armoury.* LITTLE STUDY. In this room is a portrait of Henrietta Maria wife of Charles I. whole length bi/ Vandych. LIBRARY. This is a spacious and handsome apartment. It contains about three thousand three hundred volumes ; and, if they are not to be characterized as a rare or invaluable, v they form, at least, a useful collection of books. Over the fire-place A School Boy by Sir Joshua Reynolds of whom it is said, that " to the gran- " deur, truth, and simplicity of Titian, and to the daring " strength of Rembrandt, he has united the chastness *' and delicacy of Vandyck." red bedchamber. In this room, which is nearly opposite the Librar)', are the following paintings. Over the fire-place George, Duke of Bucking- ham, AND HIS brother Francis whole lengths by VandycT^. These two young nobles, who are here por- trayed in their infancy, fell a sacrifice to their precipitate zeal in the cause of Charles I. At the head of a small * r. 205. OF THE CASTLE. 217 J-'urlruit of Frinces Rupert and Maurice Fntit. In/ M. Angela. body of troops, they were defeated, near Klngsfon-upon- Thames ; the elder was slain in battle ; the younger, dis- dainftilly refusing quarter, was cruelly butchered. Opposite the window Prince Rupert, and his BROTHER Maurice /;?/ Vandyck. These two princes, here drawn in the same picture, sons of the King of Bo- hemia, entered into the service of their uncle Charles I. when he raised his standard at Nottingham : and greatly signalized themselves, on many occasions, during the un- fortunate contest that followed. The former had more fire and activity, more daring and precipitate valour : the latter was equally brave, but more cool aiid steady. Opposite the window Fruit exquisitely done lif Michael Angelo Buonarotti the only specimen in this collection of the wonderful powers of " that truly divine artist," as Sir Joshua Reynolds, in his discourses tp the students of the Royal Academy, scruples not to call him " in whose steps, above all others," he declares, " he was ambitious to tread, however unequally and " whose name he desired to be the last words, pronounced *^ by himself in that Academy." And as he desired, so it was : for, unfortunately for the lovers of the fine arts, this was the last speech he delivered as President of the Royal Academy. Michael Angelo was highly distin- guished as a sculptor, as well as a painter ; and it is diffi- cult to decide in which he most excelled. It is certain, however, that sculpture was his primary pursuit ; and yet, if the question were, which of the sister arts would most suffer, by being deprived of his powers, tlie answer, says his biographer, would undoubtedly be, painting. In sculpture we possess the reli(|ues of the antique ; works E E 218 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Portrait of a A'm View of the Interior of a Church View ofVeuice. which more than rival his. But what is there in painting that could compensate for the loss of the Slst'me Chapel? The greatest works of this, extraordinary genius ard " The Crucifixion" and " The Last Judgment." He was born in Tuscany, 1474, and died at Rome, 1563. Opposite the fire-place Portrait of a Nun by Paul Veronese. ^This celebrated artist is acaised of paint- ing too much with a view to please the debauched eye of the Ftnetians, his countrymen ; and of sacrificing to that consideration, force of expression, correctness of drawing, and all propriety in the costume of his figures, and the architectural, and other ornaments of his pictures. But, in excellence of colouring, in the magic effect of light and shade, and in grace and harmony of composition, he has attained the highest distinction. RED DRESSING ROOM. Three large paintings adorn this small apartment. Over the fire-place View of the Interior of A Church by A. de Forme of which the perspective is good, and the light, which is that of wax tapers, is ex- cellently managed. Opposite the fire-place A View of Venice, with A Procession by Canalctto who was originally a scene painter, at Venice, his native city ; bnt afterwards studied with great success at Rome. He made use of the Camera Obsaira to obtain precision, and afterwards cor- rected its defects by the air tints. He produced great effects : and impressed a character of vigour on every object, he touched. Canaletto once resided at the OF THE CASTLE. 219 Sea Piece, by W. Vandervelde Landscape, by Salvaior Rosa Sea Fight. Castle, under the patronage of the late Earl of Warwick, who, amongst other Avorks, employed him in pain ling views of the Castle. Of these, four large pictures were highly finished by him, and were afterwards removed to London, to adorn the town residence of the Earls of Warwick. Opposite the window A Sea Piece by that unrivalled master in this branch of the art, William Van- dervelde, the younger. His father obtained high degrees of excellence, in the same department of painting, but was greatly surpassed by the son ; to whom, indeed, no painter in this style, of any age or country, since the revival of letters, can be regarded as superior, or even as equal. PASSAGE. In the passage leading to the apartments just enumerated, are several valuable paintings. On the stair-case A Landscape rock, cataracts, and trees in fine style by Salvator Rosa. Near the Dressing Room door A Study by the same great artist. It is the representation of a natu- ralist musing, with all the objects of his contemplation scattered about. Near the window A Sea Fight, between the Russians and the Turks moonlight by Loutherbourg. On the stair-case Charles I. sitting on a bay Horse. 2 220 PRIVATE APARTMENTS I'orhiiits of' S/inkcs/iear Henri/ VI JI Queen Kliznhcth. Portrait of Shakespear hy Cornelius Jansens The great poetical genius ^the pride of fVarwichshire and tlie glory of \\k country, " who first exhausted worlds, and then imagined nfew" is here drawn in a sitting pos- ture, composing ; the light finely hreaking in from the windows. Henry VIII. hy Holbein.* " This despotic mo- narch,** says Grainger, in his admirahle sketch of hi* character, " held the nation in greater subjection than any of its conquerors. He was more governed by vanity and caprice, than principle ; and paid no regard to mercy, nor even to justice, when it stood in the way of his passions. But, though a tyrant, by depressing the nobility, and in- creasing the property of the commons, he laid the foun- dation of civil liberty ; and, though a bigot to almost every error of the Romish Church, he was the father of th& Reformation." What a detestable idea of him is held forth by his own words, when, according to Sir Robert Naunton, he once said of himself, " he never spared mau in his anger, nor woman in his lust !" Queen Elizabeth dressed in stiff golden robes ; on her head, the crown, and in her hand, the globe and sceptre hy Holhein. " So happily tempered" says Grainger, *' was affability with haughtiness, and benevo- lence with severity, in the character of this Princess, that she was more loved than feared by the people ; and was It ij remarkable that Holdkin always pniiited with his left hand. TFie latnt iingulr habit is related of Turpii.ius, a Roman Artist, ai also of Mozzo, of Antnerjy, of Amico AsPEnriNo.aiid Lkdovico Cangiagio. $ Fiagmenla Regalia, {)uLlii!icd ill the r/iar?ur. r. I. p. 133. OF THE CASTLE. 221 " , - ^ Portraits of Mortj Queen of Scots Sir Philip Sidney. at the same time, the delight of her subjects, and the ter- ror of Europe.'^ Mary Queen or Scots, and James her Son hy Holbein. The infant here drawn, is of the age of three or four ; but it is well known that the Queen never saw her son, after he was a year old ; one of the portraits, therefore, cannot be original. There is another copy of the same picture in the Draper's Hall, London. Though virtuously disposed, this unhappy Princess has never been wholly cleared from the gcuilt of the crimes laid to her charge. But such were the graces of her person and manners, that every one who saw and conversed with her, was inclined to believe her innocent, at least to wish her so : and all concurred in pitying the severity of her fate. She was beheaded in the hall of FotJier- inghay Castle, February 8, 1586 : and her behaviour, at that awful crisis, was, in a supreme degree, calm, mag- jaaniraous, and pathetic. Sir Philip Sidney in a striped habit. This is with reason, believed to be an original of that highly and deservedly celebrated man, as it belonged to his fond and faithful friend, Fulke Lord Brooke. Sir Philip Sidney was the son of Sir Henry Sidney, Lord Deputy of Ireland, himself a man of pure and exalted character,* and of Mary, the tnily amiable and accomplished daugh- ter of John Dudley, the famous Duhe of Northumber- land. Gifted, by nature, with some of the best, and noblest qualities of the mind and the heart ; he received. ' This great man,'' sa^s Graincke, " deserves to be much beiicr kuown." 222 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Biogrup/iical Sketch t>f Sir FhiUp Sidney. from the cares of wise and affectionate parents, the ines- timable advantages of a learned, liberal, and virtuous education: and, for his further improvement, at the age of 18, he was sent to travel in foreign countries. None of all the precious advantages bestowed upon him by birth or education, was bestowed in vain ; he ardently soared, and rapidly rose, to a height of excellence, rarely exceed- ed, in intellectual and moral attainments ; and his various and powerful talents, his extensive and well digested learning, the elevated and generous sentiments glowing in his breast, the pure and virtuous principles animating his conduct, were graced with the fascinating charms of a fine person, recommended by every manly and martial accom- plishment, and by the most pleasing and polished manners. On his return home, after an absence of three years, all the excellencies of his noble and amiable character shone out, with resplendent lustre ; every eye Avas dazzled, every heart was attracted ; he soon became the ornament and delight of the English court and the English nation ; and, thence, his high reputation extended, and excited great and general admiration, in all the other courts and coun- tries of Europe. Every where the men of learning were proud to dedicate to him their works ; the poets delighted to celebrate his virtues and accomplishments ; princes condescended to repeat his praises, and to court his favor ; and so extraordinary was his fame, that, as Sir Robert Naunton* relates, he was even put in nomination, at the election of a King oj Poland. His royal mistress, Eliza- BKTii, however, opposed his advancement, " not from emulation" as Sir Robert expresses it, " but from fear " Fragraenta Regalia," publiihed in the Hatltian Miicellanj alio ia Jbe PhoEuix, V. I. p. 193. OF THE CASTLE. 223 Death of Sir Philip Sidney. of losing the jewel of her time." " He was, indeed," continues the same writer, who knew him personally, " a noble and matchless gentleman ; and it may be justly " said of him, as it was of Cato, of Utica, that he seemed *' borji only to that which he went about, versatilis ingenii."* But the splendid career of his virtuous and honourable life unhappily for his country, and the world! terminated October 17, 1586, at the early age of 32. As he was valiantly fighting on the side of the Dutch, against their Spanish oppressors, near Zutphen, * It would be endless to repeat all the high and honourable testimonies that have been borne, from the earliest to the latest times, by writers of every description and every country, to the great and amiable qualities of Sir. Philip Sidney of whom it iiaseveii been said that " he approaches more nearly lo the idea of a perfect man, is well as of a perfect Knight, than any character of any age or nation." Who, then, in the midst of this great and universal admiration, can witness, without disgust and disdiin, the strange, uiijiist, and most perverse attempt of the late Lord Orford, to bring down so fair and beautiful, and exalted a character from that height of eminence to which it has been ever raiiied, by the unanimous suffrages of all ages, and all nations! " When we," says iiii Lordship, " at this dibtaiice of time, enquire what were the prodigious merits which " excilfcd such admiration what do we find ? " Can it be credited that, to this question, tlio only reply is, " nothing but valour r " and that, too, ii is added, ' in an age of heroes," when, of course, valour was a cheap and common quality ! Surely ! surely ! no lordlj rank, nor literary celebrity, nor even good desert, in other respects, ought to shelter Irom evere and indignant reproach so sliameless a defrauder of the just praises of the iilu^trious dead ! and ihnugh himself no longer living, yet must so wrongful an attempt to injure the memory of oiie of the most exalted of human beings, recoil with deepest disgrace upon his own ! Ho\T most unfair too, is the same noble Writer, in estimating the literary merits of Sir Philip 1 Though his celeluated work " Tht Arcadia" will not bear to be tried by the rules ol modern ciiiicism, ^et ceriainly it deserves not the contempt poured upon it by his Lordship. It was long universally read and admired, and frequently imitated; nd, though tedious as a whole, yet, in many of its parts, it would highly gratify a modern reader, even of refined taste and judgiuent, But another performance, by many esteemed hii best, entitled " D^'feme of PoiUe," is passed entirely unnoticed by Lotto Ohford; i\lio, in a iuter edition of his works, excuses himself by the pitiful pi- a of having forgotten it ! \\\i iamous '' Letter to tht Queen," also, on the subject of her proposed marriage with the Duke of Anjou, is said, by Hv.me, Io be written " with unusual elegance of expres- sion, as wt!! as force of reasoniiig :" and his defence of his uncle, against a publication, called ' Leicester's CommouucZ//i," is acknowledged, by LoudOrpurd liimsclf, to be a spitiied Siid powerful perfoiojaoce. Bui enough for the compass of a note which, however, 224 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Domestic Offices. he was mortally wounded ; and it is of him that heautiful instance of humanity iss recorded, which has lately been made the subject of a fine picture, by the first historical painter of the age, the venerable Mr. West. Retiring from the field, overcome with thirst, from excessive bleed- ing, he called for water ; and, just as he was raising it to his lips, a poor soldier, at that moment carried alone-, desperately wounded, fixed upon it his eager and Ionising eyes ; instantly, the fainting hero withdrew the water from his own lips, and ordered it to be delivered to him, with these memorable words, " Thy necessity is yet greater than mine I" DOMESTIC OFFICES, &C. Under the principal range of apartments, is another, extending the whole length of the Castle, from east to west in which are the various domestic oflices. These are all formed out of the solid rock, supj)oited by lofty and beautiful arches, presenting in the whole, a most striking appearance : and though they may be considered, as under ground, with respect to the Court on the north side; yet, the windows, looking southward, are still 60 feet above the bed of the river. What a suite of magnificent apartments might here be formed ! As it is, however, they are well employed, as olhces for the various domestic purposes, necessary or useful, in this large and princely abode. must not ^et be closed, nii|iou( adding, that, since it uns penned, the wrier lias [lernsed, with inexprosihle delight, Dn Zouctis ' Memoirs of tiir T'ltilip Sidneij" in v.hith the liit;h pre ciiiiiience ol liiit cliaructer is elecantly and iDriiblv delineated ; iind a defence provided, more limn vulTiclciit to bid contemptuous defiance to nil ;iitatk, though a Ihuuiiand times less fiiinsy and less futile than thit of the niogropher ot the Nc/hle ajid Koyal Authors in which, indeed, the dariii(:tiess of ihe design, and the fteblciiess of the txecuiion, funu a niOkt rerattikable instance of striLing coiitrust ! OF THE CASTLE. 225 Servant's Hall Kitchen. At the eastern extremity, are the Housekeeper's rooms, opposite to which, are Servants' rooms, and the Butlers' pantry. Moving westward, appear the wine cellars succeeded by the spacious ale cellar and those for wood and coal. Beyond these, are the old Servants* hall and kitchen, together with large and convenient lar- ders; and, near the western extremity, is the present kitchen, of ample size, furnished with every convenience ; and surrounded by pantry, store-rooms, and some other small apartments. -?57l' F F 226 PLEASURE GROUNDS View J rem Gain's Tower. CHAP. XXIil. 3^Iea^ure <0tountii5f of tlje a0tlt. Tiew/rom Gut/'t Tower Dunge07i qfCasar's Tower the Green House Grand Antique Vase Walk through the Garden Plantations View on tht Jjxwn Hear View of the Castle the Pavilion the Hill House the Mount the North Tower the Porter's Lodge Guy's Armour Hide round the Park the Lake the Bridge the Park-Lodge. vJN leaving the intenor of the Castle, the Stranger usually ascends to the top of Chip's Tower. The ascent, though long, is not very difficult ; and the view from the summit will amply repay him the fatigue. Winding up the stone stairs, and passing five distinct stories, he will find himself on the battlements elevated above the level of the ground 130 feet, and above that of the river 150. From this eminence, a striking view is commanded, of all the streets and buildings of the town, on the one side ; and the whole extent of the park, stretching five miles in cir- cumference, on the other. In the distance, are seen the three spires of Coventry , one of them, next to Salishiiri/j the highest in the kingdom ; and, in the opposite direction, the Saxon Toiver in Lord Coventry's park, on the Broad- way Hill. The Shropshire Hills, and those of ShuMurgh Park, are also clearly to be seen ; as are, in the nearer tract, Kenilworth Castle, Grove Park, the seat of Lord Dormer, and a considerable number of village churches, in all directions. The romantic retreat of Guys Cliff is al- "' OF THE CASTLE. 227 Dungeon of Cresars Tower Green House. most concealed in the bosom of its own rocks and woods ; but Blacklow Hill, near it, crowned with its tufted ever- greens, is clearly to be discerned. From this tower, the look down through the open space, left by the hanging battlements, is truly tremendous. Into Ccesar*s Tower Strangers are not admitted. Some of the higher apartments are inhabited ; but under-r neath is a dungeon, deep, damp, and dark ; exhibiting a horrible specimen of a place of subterraneous imprison- ment. One small loop-hole admits its only light ; insuf- ficient for tracing the large letters and figures, still visible by the help of a candle on the wall. One of the more legible of these inscriptions records the confinement of a Royalist Soldier,* during the Civil War, who was here immured, a wretched captive, for the long space of three or four yeai'S. Descending from the summit of Guy's Tower, and re-entering the Inner Court on its northern side, r a portcullis opens, leading by an ivy-mantled bridge, beautifully picturesque, thrown over the deep moat into the broad gravelled walk of the Pleasure Grounds, Entering this walk, the thick shades, on the right, conceal the Stables of the Castle, and the buildings of the town ; but admit a good passing view of St, Nicholas* spire. Proceeding a few hundred yards, the Green-House appears, a spacious and handsome building, designed and finished by Eboral, an ingenious Architect of JVarwicli. * Master John Smyth, Goner to his Majesty's Highness, was a priianer in this place < in the year of our Lord I64l2, Ti, 4, 5. William Sidiate rot this aiae, and if my pen liad been better, for bis sake, I would have mended everie leuer." F F 2 228 PLEASURE GROUNDS Celebrated Antique Vase. It has a modern Gothic front of stone, plain and nn- adomed and, looking out over an extensive lawn, imme- diately before it, obtains a fine view of a wide bend of the river, with the rich woods rising beyond, and the Keeper's Lodge towering. above. This beautifiil Green-House was expressly built for the purpose of receiving the celebrated ANTiauE Vase, which is certainly one of the noblest specimens of ancient art at present remaining. It is formed of white marble ; and, in design and execution, is in the purest Grecian taste. It is of circular shape, and large size, capable of holding 163 gallons. It is placed on a square pedestal, within a semi-circular recess ; and is made to move round by means of a mortise and tenon. It has two large handles, exqui- sitely formed, by interwoven vine-branches, from which tendrils shoot, and most beautifully spread, with their large leaves and clustering grapes, round the whole upper margin. On the body itself, extending round its middle, appears the skin, with the head and claws of a panther, the well-knoAvn emblem of the God of Mirth and Wine ; and, immediately above, are some of the finest heads, which the Sculptor's art has ever produced representing those of his attending Satyrs : some with ivy-bound hair, and all with mirthful countenances, happily suited to the gaiety and good cheer, to which this magnificent bacchanalian vase was dedicated. Amongst its other ornaments are the tkijrsus, or vine-clad spear of Bacchus and the I'duus, or crooked staff of the augurs. The whole remains in a state of excellent preservation ; nor is any part the production of a modern hand, except the head of one of the Satyrs. It is to be regretted, however, that the white composition seems not to be quite cleared off^ with which the workmen OF THE CASTLE. 229 Plantation. covered it, who were employed by Lord Lonsdale, to take a model of it, with the view of casting another, intended to be of solid silver, gilt. This noble production of ancient art, as a Latin iniscription* partly informs, was found at the bottom of a lake, not far from Hadrians Villa, near Iwoli, about twelve or fourteen miles from Rome ; and was first pur- chased by the late Sir William Hamilton, then Ambas- sador at the Court of Naples. But the inscription fails to state, as truth and justice required, that it was afterwards re-purchased by the present Earl of fVarwich, and that, at his sole expence, it was conveyed to England. To him, therefore, the Lovers of the Fine Arts, in this kingdom, are indebted for the high gratification, which so grand a display of antique sculpture, in all its perfection, must afford.-^ Passing from the Green-House the walk, laid out by Brown, continues ^winding through the tasteful and beautiful plantation, formed of large and luxuriant trees and shrubs, uninjured by the edge of the axe, almost un- touched by the hand of art consisting of every various species, the oak, the beech, the elm, the fir, the larch, and particularly the cedar of Lebanon ; which is said to abound more, and to thrive more, in this than in any other plan- " Hoc pristiiiae artisRomanaj que magnificenlisB monumeiitura rufieribus villffl Tibar- tinae Hadriano Aug, in deliciis liabitse effossiim restilui curavit EquesGulielmos Hatnilton, a Georgio Tcrlio Magiias Britannise Rege ad Sicil. Regera Ferdinandura Quartum legatus ; t in palriain transniissuni Patrio Bonarum Ariium, genio dicavit An. Ac. N. 1774. t In Piranesi Vai et Candelabri are tbrec engraving* of tbis vase ; and in tbe Antiqu. ii Topograp. Cabinet, No. 2, is one, small but correct. An engraving of it is also to be setfi) in tbe Gentlemaii'c Magazine. 230 PLEASURE GROUNDS Aertr r>aJ on the Lann, Sfc. Pavilion I I ' ' " ' I 'I' tation in the kinsrdom. One of this last species, planted hy the present Earl, was measured last year ; and, at three feet from the ground, was found to be eleven feet eight inches in the girth. On approaching the banks of the river the walk again opens on the extensive lawn and from this point is presented, in fine assemblage, a variety of pleasing and striking objects. On the one hand, appears, at a proper distance, the Gothic Green-House ; and before it, gently swelling, the large expanse of velvet turf bounded, on each side, by trees and shrubs, grouped or scattered about ; and backed with darli and loftv shades ; above whic hrises, with good effect, the tower of St. Marys. On the other hand, is seen the Avon, gliding softly along ; diversified, at a small distance, by the cascade, the mill, and- the ruined arches of the bridge. Here, too, a deficiency, in the want of passing views of the main edifice, of which, soifte have complained,* in the manner of laying out the grounds, is amply compensated. For here, from a new point, the venerable Castle again appears, in all its solemn grandeur proudly ascending far above the level of the waters, and finely relieved by the mingling shades of clus- jtering ivy and spreading trees. Passing onward the Pavilion soon appears where, by a sudden change, the stranger finds himself em- bosomed within the umbrageous arms of a group of trees shut out from all view of the surrounding scenery as if for the pause of a few moments usually so needful after Gilpin's Korthern Tour, v. I. p. 40. " llie close walk reverts into itself, taking no notice, except in one single point, of the venerable pile it invests." OF THE CASTLE. 331 Near View of the Castle t>te Hill Hoiisr, the attention has been so long and vigorously excited. A slight and interrupted glance, however, may be obtained over a small branch of the river, crossed by a rustic bridge, and the opposite meadows, enlivened by browsing cattle or sheep presenting only a small assemblage of rural objects, in strong contrast wath the solemn grandeur, which is every where else displayed. Advancing towards the foundations of the Castle, on the solid rock, from which they are scarcely to be dis- tinguished its towering heighth and expanding bulk are submitted to the uninterrupted view, with great and asto- nishing effect. Even the rocks themselves, rising perpen- dicularly upward to a vast height, and richly clothed, in many parts, with ivy, moss, and other creeping plants, look with amazing grandeur. And here, from every feel- ing bosom, a passing sigh wull rise, for the melancholy fate of a youth, of noble family, cousin to Lord Bagot, who, engaged in the amusement of rowing, during the time of a considerable flood, was here unfortunately drowned, in the very view of the Castle Windows, January 10, 1800. A friend, who accompanied him, was, with difficulty, saved. A small plate of copper, unostentatiously fastened to the rock, records, in six Latin lines, the sorrows of paternal affection, on this distressing occasion.* Passing through a tower, called the Hill House, a circuitous path, carried round a well-wooded mount. * Juxta lianc tiparu, e c^mbii submenus fuit, Gualierus Bagot, Jan. lo A. D. 1800, Mt. suae 2. Oh ! crudelis Avon, Stjgta iiiftliclor uiid&, Suaviloquus post Lac noii tibi prosit Olor ! Metso, namque, luo violenfi in gurglte, unto llc verba iiiscripit fleu,,-|et aniaus Cenilur. 232 PLEASURE GROUNDS Furter'i Lodge Guj/'s Armour. affords delightful views in passing, among which that of St. Mary's tower, emulously rising above the lofty groves, is peculiarly striking. The path, pursuing its winding course,* terminates at length in a broad sj)ace, on the summit, shaded by the spreading arras of an aged and venerable fir. Here once stood the ancient Keep ; and here, now, stands what is called the Northern Tower. From this place a striking view is obtained, through an iron grating, into the inner court of the Castle, on one side ; and, on the other, the prospect extends, from the nearer grounds, over a vast expanse of country, till the eye, wandering from one attractive point to another, is finally lost in the blue mists, which usually cover, and often entirely conceal, the distant Edge Hills, and the still more distant hills of Bredon and Broadway. Descending from this woody mount, a door from the Hill House opens into the Inner Court, through which the stranger usually re-passes on his return And, before he takes his final leave of IVarwick Castle a visit is usually paid to the Porter's Lodge. Here are to be seen the following curiosities : Guy's Armour,^ undoubtedly ancient, and of enormous It i thus described in the her Boreale : Up to the tower, tho' it be sieep & liigb, We do not cliuibe but walite; & tlio' the rje Seem to be wear^, jct our feci are still In ihe same posfuxc, cozen'd up tlie hill: And tlius the \Yoiketuun's art deceaves our sence, l^Iakhig these rounds of pleasure, a defence. I Engravings of most ot these piece; of ancient aruiour are given in Gkoie'i Anciflot Armour, Pia-e 42 ficd 48. OF THE CASTLE. 233 Guij'i Horse Armour Rib of the Dun Cow. III II. I I \ weight, consisting of his sword,* shield, breast-plate, hel- met, walking-staff, and tilting-pole The Horse Armour of later date and lighter fabric on which is an insciip- tion, nearly o1)literated A large Bell-metal Pot, usually called Guy's his Flesh Fork his Ladys stirrups of Iro/i pretended Rib of the Dun Cow\\ and pith of her Horns one joint of the spine the tuskj and a shoulder blade of the Wild Boari Besides these, which are immediately connected with the history of Guy there are, a Spanish halbert - a Toledo sword a battle axe two ancient maces two daggers a General's truncheon a tomahawk ^bar chain and spike shot, dug up in the Outer Cowr^-^ an da stone coffin, found in the Inner Court, Though for the sword, and some part of the ar- mour of Guy, high antiquity is justly claimed ; yet, if* 6ven these should, after all, be thought fictitious, " they are still," says Gilpin, " no improper appendages of the place, as they give the imagination a kind of tinge, which throws an agreeable romantic colour, on all the vestiges of this venerable pile." To this short account of the Pleasure Grounds, and other appendages of the Castle, we subjoin the following li2:ht sketch of the Ride throu^-h the Park : * See p. 26. II There is a fellow Rib of this supposed Dun Co*v, preserved under the tower of Redcliffe Clmrch, Bristol. But that lliey are certainly no part of ai\y such, animal is eident, both from their enormous size, and still more from ibe position of the ribs ; which, in a cow, have their flat surface parallel to the sides of the nniinal, instead of 1irp:ndicular, as is ilie case here. It seems highly probable, therefore, that these are i)ie bones of some jnarine aniroul, since the ribs are placed in the same manner, as in most aiiim^lsof that kind wlio are thus defended, by a wise provisiun of nature, from the great pressuie of the fluid, in which they are destined to exist. G G aU PLEASURE GROUNDS ' Ride through (he Fork Vietvt of the Castle. fi i i ii'ih ii i i - -I- 1 saaaassgag . it' .fr, asassassa i ' ' ' , ni Towards the bottom of the Lawn, the great walk bf the Garden is crossed at right angles by another, lead- ing, through large and thriving plantations, to this delight- ful Ride ; which, skirting the entire boundary of the park, is continued in a wide circumference of about five miles- intersected by many collateral branches, affording other ii/We.v of pleasing variety and different distances. On one side, the principal Ride is shadedj by d broad bfelt of young* and flourishing trees, among which are seen various species of evergreens and deciduous shnibs, intermingled with the oak, the beech, the ash, and other trees of the forest exhibiting almost every gradation of tint, from the lightest and gayest to the darkest green. On the other side, open- ing to the Park, delightful views are commanded, in passing, over its undulating surface ; in some parts, thickly sprinkled with trees; in others, deeply shaded with groves ; and finely watered, in a long course, by the windings of the AvoHj and by its own beautiful lake, which spreads- into a liquid plain, " pure as the expanse of heaven,'*^ towards the centre. Here, too, with all the grandeur of park-scenery^ are united the mral beauties of a fdrme ornffe ; and pleasing views are caught, at intervals, of rich pastures, fertile corn fields, and browsing flocks and herds* The deep and solemn shade of the noble and extensive woods, through which the Ride is occasionally conducted, agreeably changes, at times, and relieves the scene. But the great charm of the whole excursion is, in the many picturesque views, which the venerable Castle itself affords sometimes bursting suddenly on the eye, through an opening in the thick shades and, at other times, display- ed, in all its magnificence, before the uninternipted sight, in the midst of the fine and richly varied landscape, of which it forms the crowning glory. OF THE CASTLE. 23 The Luke The Rialto. V I, ' .. I ' I . SSSSm Amongst othep objects that will interest and delight in this excursion, njust be particularly noticed the spacious and beautiful Lake, already mentioned, stretching, in a noble sweep, of a mile in length, and varying in its breadth from three hundred to six hundred feet. This is, indeed, w not of the kind which Virgil describes as stasna virentia rnusco ^but of that which the same great master of nature strikingly denominates vivique lacus. The waters of this fine expanse, supplied by a small stream, rising at Chesterton, six miles distant, are pure and pel- lucid: not a weed deforms its smooth surface ; not the least turbid mixture sullies the glassy clearness of its whole depth, which, in some parts, is not less than 25 I'eet. It is well stored with fish ; and enlivened with abundance of aquatic fowl, particularly the wild duck, of which some curious varieties are here to be seen. Its banks, on each side, boldly rise, graced with turfted verdure, and crowned with hanging woods. .At a small distance, on the east side, in the midst of a group of elms, is to be seen a herony, besides which so few are to be found throughout the kingdom. In another part of the park, a light and elegant Bridge appears to view bestriding the waters of the Avon, and connecting the two parts of the domain. It is built of stone, and consists of one noble arch, 24 feet in the heighth, and 101 feet in the span. Near this Bridge, is an uncommonly fine echo ; but the effect depends much upon the state of the winds. Above, upon a bold emi- nence, in the midst of towering and spreading woods, is a handsome Stone Lodge, the residence of the keeper, in which is a summer apartment, for the occasional use of the Noble Family. From this Lodge, is to be seen the G G 2 THE PRIORY. 237 Founded in tffe Reign of Henri/ I. CHAP. XXIT, Trlory of St. Sepulchre^ founded by Henri/ de Nezoburg encouraged hy "Royal Favor enriched by Public Liberality dissolved in the Reign of ' Henry VIII. Aneient Edifce granted to Thomas Hawkins pulled down and the present Structure erected Celebration of the Order of St. Michael Visit of Queen Elizabeth to the Priory the Mansion and Estate purchased by SerJ. Puckering devised to Sir H. Newton pur- chased by Henry Wiscy Esq. Present State of the Edifice the Pleasure Grounds. JL HE Piiory of St. Sepulchre, situated on the north side of IVarwich, on the site of an ancient Church, dedi- cated to St. Helen, was founde<l by Henry de Newburg,* Earl of IFarwick, and completed by his son, Roger,^ in the reign of Henry I. It was designed for the accom- modation of a society of Regular Canons, instituted in imitation of one of the same order, established at the Holt/ Sepulchre, in Jerusalem ; to which at that time. Chris- tian pilgrims were accustomed, in great numbers, to resort. They wore the same habit as the other Canons Regular ; with the distinction, only, of a double cross of red on the * " Henriais de Novoburgo erat primus fundaior ad instantiam Hierosoljmitanorum ccdesix Canunicoruna regnlarium Scli. Sepulchri Warr." Jiouj' Roll. Rogerus Comes Warr. ac etiam Vicccomes ejusdem in Aiiglia, rt Comes de Novo- burgo, &c. Hie opus apud laitctum sepulcliruiu Warwici (a palrc inccptuni) coiiiplcit.- Rous' Boll. 238 THE PRIORY. Prion/ diiscived ut the Reformation. breast of the upper garment. No account remains of the estates originally assigned for their support, but Dugdale thinks it probable that mucb of the adjacent land was given, for that purpose. It is certain, however, that this religious institu- tion continued to subsist and to flourish, for a long series of years, encouraged by the smiles of royal favor, and enriched by the liberality of the public, especially by that of the successive Earls of fVarwiih, and their families. To the former, it was obliged for some important privi- leges, granted in the reigns of Henry H. and Richard I. and confirmed in those of Henry HI. and Edward HI. To the latter, it was indebted for considerable additions to its possessions, in various estates, situated in IVarwick^ Hatton^ Claverdortf Snitterfield^ Solyhully and other places. In the reign of Henry VIH. at the important period of the Reformation, the Priory of IVai'wich shared the fate of other religious institutions, which were at that time dissolved. The building itself, and the lands imme- diately adjacent, belonging to it, were then seized by the Crown, and remained for some time in its possession ; till, in 1547, they were granted to Thomas Hawkins, and his heirs, to be held in soccage of the Castle, at the yearly rent of 2Qs. Qd. Thomas Hawkins was of obscure origin, and usually known by the name of Fisher, from the circum- stance of his father having been engaged in the low em- ployment of selling fish, in the market-place at IVaricich. The better fortunes of the son began with his reception THE PRIORY. 239 Granted to Thomas Hairki7is. into the family of John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, after- wards the famous Duke of Northumberland, He was, next, employed as secretary to the Duke of Somerset, Pro- tector to the young king, Edward VI, Afterwards he entered into the army ; and as Colonel, at the head of an English regiment, obtained high distinction, at the battle of Musselborough Field, in Scotland. When, on the death of Edward VI. the Duke of Northumberland aspired to place his daughter-in-law. Lady Jane Grey, on the throne, he entrusted a large sum of money, for the pur- pose of proijloting his ambitious project, to the care and disposal of his old servant, Fisher. This money was concealed iu Bishop's Itchington Pool ; and being required, after the decapitation of his master, to deliver it, for the use of Queen Mary, it is said, Fisher sturdily refused; and even suft'ered all the extremity of torture, rather than discover it. Whether he afterwards restored the hidden treasure to the family of the late Duke, or appropriated it to his own use, history is silent. It appears, however, that in the service of his two noble masters, Fisher acquired a very large fortune; which was afterwards increased by the purchase of mo- nastery and church lands, to an immense amount. Wlien, amongst others, he had obtained possession of the Priory, the ancient edifice was immediately pulled down ; and, on its site, the present large and handsome structure, with the exception of the garden front, as hereafter mentioned, was then erected. But, of the original building, as Dr. Stukely observes,* two galleries were suffered to remain ; and, it may be added, part, also, if not the whole, Iiiner, Criv, II. Jl. 240 THE PRIORY, >", iry re-erected. of the chapel. Much of the former, and evident remains of the latter, are still to be seen. To the newly-erected mansion, which was completed in 15&6, the name of '* Hawluns Nest^ was given ; and " its situation," says DuGDALE, " in the midst of a grove of lofty elms," ren- dered that name not inappropriate. Yet its old designa- tion of the Priory, if discontinued at all, soon revived, and finally prevailed. According to the same author, the windows were finely adorned with the arms of Fisher ^ and of his two noble Patrons ; but of these, all traces hav& long since disappeared* In the month of September, 1571, the Priory way a scene of great and splendid festivities, of which a curious account is preserved in the Black Book, referred to in a former part of this work.* Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, arrived on the S/th of that month, at IVarwich^ for the purpose of celebrating, at St. Mary's Church, the French order of St. Michael, with which he had been lately invested ; and took up his abode at the seat of Mr. FiSHEk, the favoured servant, as already mentioned, of the late Duke, his father. He was accompanied by his brother, the Earl of IVarwich, and by a long and illus- trious train of nobles, knights, and gentlemen ; and was received with eveiy possible honor at the Prioiy. Here, soon after his arrival, he was waited upon, in all due form, by the BailiiF And Burgesses of tVarwich, who were soli- citous to pay their respects to a peer of the realm, the favorite of the Queen, and the patron of their town. But they had committed, it appears, a grievous offence, in failing to meet him, on his first entrance into the town, us - ' t t r. 14. THE PRIORY. 241 Grand Procession to celebrate the Order of St. Michael. he had expected ; though this honor was seldom conferred upon any one below the rank of a royal personage. At jfirst, therefore, they were rudely repulsed ; and their offered present of a yoke of fat oxen, which cost ^11, was disdainfully rejected. However, on their hunible submission, they were pardoned ; and permitted to join the grand procession, which went, on St. MichaeVs Day, from the Priory to the Church, and of which some notice has already been taken. On the morning of that day, the procession set out in the following order. First the commoners, two and two; then four constables, in a rank, with 'kittle white stiks in their handes;" then the twelve principal burgesses, two and two, '^ the youngest going formost ;'* next followed '^ such of my Lord's Gentlemen and Gen- tlemen of the Shire as wayted uppon him that day ;'* then " cam the Serjant, bering his mace ;" and after him " the Bailief alone, in a gowne of skarlet." Next after him came, ''all in one rank, Mr W Gorge, Steward, *^ Mr. T. Dudley, Comptroller, and Mr. R. Cristmas, Tre- '' surer to my Lord, all with white staves." They were fol- lowed by " Dragon, pursyvant at armes, and Clarenseaux, *' king at armes, both in coat armors." Then advanced " my said Lord, the Earle of Leycester, by himself, appa- " relied all in white ; his shoes of velvet ; his stoks of hose " knitt silk ; his upper stoks of white velvet, lyned with " cloth of silver ; his dowlet of silver ; his jerkin white " velvet drawers with silver, beawtified with gold and pre- " cious stones ; his girdle and skabart white velvet ; his roobe white satten, embrowdered with gold a foot " broade, very curiously ; his cap black velvit with a white " fether ; his colar of gold, besett with precious stones ; H H a 243 THE PRIORY. Pieparations in St. Mart/'s Chunrel. " and his garter about his leg of St. George's order, a " sight worthie the beholding." After the Earl himself followed, as companions, " the Earle of Hertford, the ** Lord Berkley, the Lord Dudley, the Lord Chandois ; " and the whole procession was closed by many other *' knights and gentlemen, all on foot." Great were the preparations made in the Chancel of St. Mary's^ under the direction of the *' Herralds," for the important ceremony ! On the right side of the Choir, on entering, " a very riche clothe of estaste was hangid " over ;" and, on the third stall, a place was prepared " for *' the Earle himself to sitt in," over which " was sett up my *' Lord's owne armes, envyroned with the garter, and with ** a wrethe of gold, after the French order." Directly opposite, on the other side of the quire, were the French King's arms. As far as the seats extended, on each side, the Chancel " was hangid with rich clothe of gold ;" and beyond, with " arras and tapestiy." " Fourms were placed " for the noblemen, gentlemen, and others, to sit on, to *' heare the sermon."^" On the stall before my Lord, " lay a riche clothe, with a faire and costly cushion. On *^ the communion table was laid another faire cloth of ** arras ; and before it a Turkye carpet, for my Lord to " kneel on, spred by two gentlemen." And, finally, " the " pulpitt was sett at the nether end of the Earle of' lVar- " wicks tombe." Such were the preparations the following was the ceremony. On entering the Choir, " my Lord made lowe ** curtesie to the French King's armes," and was then conducted " by the Harroulds" to his own place, " where " he satt and heard the sermoud." The communion THE PRIORY. 243 Ceremony of the Celebration Festival at the Prionj. service was then said by the Minister, till he came to ** the exhortacions of almes, and relief of the poore." He then advanced to the front of the table, holding a silver bason ; and while a " psalme" Avas sung, the " Heranld *^ Clarenseaux" approached the seat of the Earl, " with a ** lowe curtesie," who immediately rose, followed the *' Herrauld;" and, after " making a very lowe curtesie " before the French Ring's armes," proceeded to the com- munion table, and offered one piece of gold. He then retired back, and before " his ovvne armes, made another *' lowe curtesie ;" thence, advancing, a second time, to the communion table, he offered another piece of gold. Re- conducted by the Heralds, he then resumed his former seat, " where he heard the rest of the prayers, untill the end.'* After the conclusion of this pompous ceremony, the procession returned, in the same order, to the Priory ; where the whole company was most splendidly enter- tained. The Earl himself, seated alone in a separate apartment, was waited upon by kneeling attendants ; and the multitude of dishes, served up to him, were all of pure gold. It was his intention to go, a second time, in grand procession, to the Church, to be present " at even song ;" but the rain prevented. The Earl remained at the Priory about six or seven days. In the following year, 1572, when Queen Elizabeth was, for several days, at IFarwick Castle, as already re- lated,* Thomas Fisher received the distinguished honor of a royal visit, at the Prioiy. Returning from a short * Page. 18. H H 2 244 THE PRIORY. Visit of Queen Elizabeth to the Priory, excursion to Kenilworth, the Qneen arrived late in the evening at If^arwich ; " and because,** says the writer, so often before referred to*, " she woold see what chere my * Lady of IVarwic made, she sodenly went into Mr, ** Fisher''s house,** where she found a party at supper. With great condescension, the Queen immediately sat down amongst the company ; and, after a slight repast, with still greater condescension, withdrew for the kind purpose of visiting " the good man of the house, who was> " at that tyme, grevously vexed with the goWt.'* Apprised of the intended honor, the sick gentleman was lifted from his chamber into the adjoining gallery, where he was met by his gracious Sovereign. He would fain, as duty and gratitude prompted, " have knelid, or rather fallen down, ** before her feet ; but her Majesty would not suffer it.** A conversation ensued, in which, " with most gracious ** words,'* the Royal Visitor " did so comfort him," that the sick man, says our author, " forgetin his payne," re- solved, " with more haste than good spede, to be on horse- *' back next time of her Majestie's going abrode ;" and though his resolution was put to the trial so early as the second day afterwards, yet, continues the story, he actu- ally accomplished it attending her Majesty, on her return to Kenilworth riding in company with the Lord Treasurer Burleigh and conversing with that great personage, it seems, with more freedom than dis- cretion. || * Black Book. ]{ Yet tlie following mjsterioos account of our Reporter of the Black Book, wlio can liopc to unfleritand or exjilain ? " He rode whJi ihe Lord Treasurer, reaporiing ueli " things, as, seine for their untnirthes, and some for oilier causesj had been better uiituld; " but as he did it cuuuscll rashly and :n lieat, so by txperieiice, at iej>uie, culdi^y he r<* ** {.eiited. What thiei things meant is not for cverj ones to knuvr," THE PRIORY. 245 The Mansion, S^c. pu/chased by Serjeant tuckering. Thomas Fisher sui"vived this remarkable event of his life only a few years. On January lO, 1576, he died; and was buried at the upper end of St. Mary's Church ; where, in Dugdale's time, a short monumental inscrip- tion w^as to be seen, which perished, no doubt, in the great fire. After his death, the Priory descended to his son, Edward, with all his vast estates, amounting to the sura of ^3,000 per ann. But the extravagance of the son, as is so often the case, soon dissipated all that the father had so laboriously and so anxiously amassed : and he was necessitated to offer this fine seat, with all its surrounding domains, to public sale. The relief arising from the pro- duce of this and other estates proved only temporary : and, at length, overwhelmed with debts, the wretched spend- thrift was committed to the Fleet Prison, where he ended his days miserably. The purchaser of the Priory, was Serjeant Puckering, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth ; whose character is concisely but for- cibly described by Camden,* in two words " vir integer^ From him it descended to his son. Sir Thomas Puck- ering, Knight and Baronet: who, to the accomplish- ments of a gentleman, added, in a high degree, the ac- quirements of a scholar. He had the honour of receiving his education in the Royal Palace ; and of being the fellow student of Prince Henrv, son of James I., described by all our historians, as a youth of high and extraordinary merits. He afterwards travelled through the different countries of Europe, for the space of four years : and, on returning to his native land, renounced all the allurements Ann. Eiix. p. 680. 246 THE PRIORY T/'ie Estate devolves to Sir H. Neicton. of a court, and chose, in preference, a life of retirement in the country. He served, however, with great reputation, as Member of Parliament for IVarwick and other places ^but lived chiefly at the Priory : and, herCj at the early age of 45, peacefully closed an honourable and useful life, March 20, l636. He lies buried in the Chancel of St. Marys Church, where a handsome monument, of highly polished marble, with a long Latin inscription, erected to his memory, is still to be seen. He left only one daugh- ter, Jane ; on whose decease, without issue, his estate de- volved to his nephew. Sir Henry Newton, son of Sir Adam Newton, of Charlton, near Greenwich, Kent. On succeeding to these fine estates, Sir Henry Newton assumed the name of Puckering, and fixed his residence at the Priory. In the unhappy contest between Charles I. and the Parliament, he espoused the royal cause ; and proved himself an intrepid warrior, as well as a zealous partisan. He was afterwards obliged to fly the country ; but, at length, by selling his manor of Charlton, and paying the produce as a fine, he effected his peace with the Protector's government, and was permitted to return home. He died, at a very advanced age, at the Priory, about the year 1/00, leaving his estate to his widow; and, after her decease, to Lady Bowyer, his niece, and Captain Grantham, his nephew. It was soon afterwards offered to public sale ; and was purchased by the ancestors of the present family in whose possession it has since remained. Of this family, the first who came into possession of the Priory, was Henry Wise, Esq. of Brompton Park, in the county of 3IiddUsex ; who had long been employed THE PRIORY. 247 Purchased by the Familt/ of the Wises. in the service of Queen Anne and Prince George, as Superintendent of the Royal Gardens at Hampton Court*. Retiring, at an advanced age, to his newly-purchased seat, he here quietly ended his days, December 15, 1738 ; and was buried near the Chancel, in St. Mar\fs Church. He was succeeded, in the possession of the Priory, by hig eldest son, Matthew Wise, Esq. By him a considerable part of the old building was taken down ; and, in it* place, was erected the modern suite of apartments, with the handsome stone front, which now forms the Garden Front. He died at the Priory, unmarried, September 12, 1776; 3,nd was buried, also, near the Chancel, in St. Marys Church. On failure of issue, his estate descended to his brother, Henry Wise, Esq. who, however, never resided here ; but lived, and, within a short time after- wards, died at Hampton Court , where he was buried. His eldest son, Henry Christopher Wise, Esq. the father of the present family, next succeeded to the possession of the Priory. Here he fixed his residence sustaining, to a good old age, and adorning the character of a private English gentleman. Once he was called from the bosom of that retirement, which he loved, to fill the office of High Sheriff for the county. He died Jan. 14, 1805, in the 69th year of his age, and his remains were interred with those of his ancestors, in the family Yault in St. Marys Church. To him succeeded, in the possession of the Priory, and the bulk of his estates, his eldest son, the late The name of ihis gejitleman, as a distinguiahed horticulturist, occurs several times in the Spectator ; see No. j, and No. 477. He was concerned with another pertoit, named Londok, in the publication of a book on Gardening. 348 THE PRIORY. Present State of the Ptiory, Matthew Blacket Wise, Esq. who, however, did not long live to enjoy them. In I807, he served the office of High Sheriff for the county; and, witliin three years aftei-vvards, terminated his days, at the early age of 43. His death took place December 3, 1810, at J Iton, Hants, whence his remains were brought for interment in the family vault, in St. Mart/s Church. He was married un- happily ; but, as he left no issue, his estate devolved to his brother, the Rev. Henry Wise, who resides, at pre^ sent, on his living at Offchurch Bury, near Warwick. The Priori/ occupies a situation, in the immediate vicinity of the town, on a pleasing eminence, gently falling in every direction, embosomed in its own ancient and majestic groves, surrounded by delightful gardens, and an extensive park forming *' a beautiful sylvan scene," not often exceeded. The more ancient part of the edifice presents a fine specimen of the style of building, which prevailed at the time of its erection. It originally formed a complete square ; of which three sides still remain, but the fourth has been removed. The western side is sup- posed to occupy the site, and to be formed partly of the walls of the Chapel, belonging to the original Priory ; which seems to be proved by the remains of a large baptismal font, of stone richly carved, strongly fixed in the wall, well worthy the notice of the curious antiquary. The Garden Front, erected about 70 years since, presents the appearance of a handsome modern mansion : and, from its windows, commands a delightful prospect over the surrounding country. In the interior, the ancient part still retains all the marks of its former grandeur : and the modern consists of a numerous suite of handsome and com- modious rooms. The Hall, in particular, is large and THE PRIORY. 249 The Pleasure Grounds. beautiful, with a lofty ceiling, formed in plaster work. The number of distinct apartments, throughout this ex- tensive pile^ amounts, in the whole, to nearly one hundred. The Pleasure Grounds, immediately adjoining the mansion, are tastefully laid out, in the form of a spacious lawn, with one principal walk, carried round it ; some times, leading through the thick shades of beautiful groves and shrubberies ; and, sometimes, opening to a view of the house, on the one side, and the adjacent country, on the other. At a small distance, is a large kitchen garden ; encompassed with high walls ; planted with choice fniit trees, and furnished with hot houses and green houses. SuiTounding the whole, is the extensive Park, consisting of nearly seventy acres, pleasingly varied in its surface, interspersed Avith several large pieces of w^ater ; and richly embellished with trees of various species, most of vigorous growth, and many of finest forms ^among which the tall elni and the spreading chesnut are particularly conspicuous. Through this Park, are several Foot Paths, still left open to the Public ; affording, to the neighbouring inhabitants, some of the most rural and delightful walks imaginable 'which, by one of our popular writers* of Travels, is justly noticed, as a happy circumstance, in the vicinity of a large town ; the environs of which are too often disfigured by the wretched habitations of squalled poverty, or by the tasteless erections of wealthy dulness or folly. The same circumstance was, also, long before, thus pleasingly noticed by the muse of Iago, *' where the gay tribes " [ndulge the social walk ; once the gloomy haunt of monks, " And now the abode of rural elegance !"|| __,^ ji ^__..... _.^_^ ^.^... WARNtu's Northern Tour, v. II. p. 238, 1| " Ed^e Hill." 1 I 250 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT Situation Origin of the Natiie. CHAP. XXV. J^i^totical ^Cccount of <i^np'g^W, Situation of the Place Origin of the Name an Oratory built here hy St. Dubritius the chosen Retreat of the Famous Guy and of two other Hennils visited by Henry V.a Charity founded here by Rich, de Beauchiimp Chapel re-built^ and the Walls inclosed by his Executors John Rous settled here as a Chantry Priest Account of him th9 Chapel and all its appurtenances granted 1st of Edward VI. to Sir A. Fluinmock purchased by IV. Hudson, Esq. devolved to Sir T. Beaufoy again purchased by Mr. Edwards and finally by S. Greathecd, Esq. Description of the Place by Leland by Cainden by Fuller by Dugdale Recent Notice by Warner. GrUY'S-CLlFF,* the seat of Bertie Greatheed^ Esa. about a mile from JVarwick, on the Coventry roady so lotifij celebrated for the romantic beauties of its situa- tion, derives its name from the abiiiptly rising, boldly prominent Rocks, which form the principal feature in the landscape ; and from the far-famed Champion, who here^ For tlie early ojlhograpiiy of this interesting place, there can be no better authority than that of its former inhabitant, our great Wurieicksldre Antiquary, Joiin Rous ; who, in his M. S. Roil of the Portraitures of the 'Earh of Warwick, narrating the life of the famous Guy, writes thus" Se Christi jugo sponte subjiciens apud Gihclifft juxta Tl'arioicum, &c."t also, in liis life of Ricmaru BsAUCHAair, LWi of Warwick^ " capellum <ic CibcUfft:, sumptuote reparavit." OP GUTS-CLIFF. 251 * ^ ' . Ill I J jln Oratory built here by St. Dubritius. ii I I I I i i II passed,* according to ancient story, dedicated to devotion, the closing years of a bustling life, of warlike achieve- ments and wonderful adventures. But even four hundred years before the age of Guy, in the days of the ancient Britons, if we may believe the great antiquary Rous himself a resident here this place was remarked and selected as favorable, from its solitude and its beautiful scenery, to the sublime contem- plations of religion by SL Dubritius, a Christian Bishop, || who had, at that time, it is said, his episcopal seat at JVarwich. Here, in consequence, an Oratory or small Chapel, according to the same author, was erected by him, and dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene. But it does not appear that any priest was appointed to officiate in it, or any provision made for the regular exercises of devotion. It was probably designed, like other similar erections, for the occasional use of the religious of those times, to whose assistance a priest was sometimes sent by the Bishop, At the period, however, when Guy himself, after all his martial exploits, satiated with the honours, and wearied with the bustle of the world, sought, on this spot, repose and comfort, in the exercises of religion it is distinctly related,'^ that he found, already settled here, a pious ' At length to Warwick I did come, " Like Filgrjr.i poor and was not known j . " And then [ lived a Hermit life " A mile and more out of the Town." Lfgknd of Gut. fl f anctus Dubritius vir in suis teniporibus maxiro^ sanctatis cujus prirais diebus tota hiC regis erat solum Btittonibus injiabitata hie ad civitateia perveuicns Cderguereaiieni scdeiD habuit episcopalem. Rom' Roll. ^ Db'ODAIX. I J 2 253 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT r > -gB--B-g- g=g I III The chosen retreat oj thejumous Gui/. recluse ; who had, for his dwelling, a natural cavity in the rock ; and who w as accustomed, for the daily duties of devotion, to repair to the neighbouring Oratory of St, Mary. Indeed, it appears, he was as much induced by the hope of receiving consolation from this hermit, as invited by the charms of the situation, when he determined to fix his abode, in the same place, for the remainder of his days. With this religious comforter he lived one year ; and survived him, two. During all this time, his wife, the fair Philis, in perfect ignorance of his retreat, and even of his existence, lived at the Castle ; and though he went himself, every day, to beg his bread from her hands,* yet, the extraordinary part of the story is, that he so completely disguised his person, and so steadily pre- served his secret, as never once to discover himself, nor to he discovered by her. At length, however, in his last sickness, a little while only before his death, he made himself known, by means of a ring, to her, " whom he loved most;" who instantly flew to his cave, and arrived just in time to exchange a parting adieu. By her hands, his dying eyes were closed ; and from her cares, attendexl by the Bishop, the clergy, and a long train of others, his remains received the rites of honourable and Christian " And daily came to beg my bread " Of Phi LIS at ray Castle gate " Not known unto my loving wife " Who daily mourned for her mate. " Till at the last 1 fell sore sicke *' Yea sick so sore that I must die ^' I sent to her a rlnge of guide " By which she knew nie presentlye. '' Then she repairing to the Cave " Before that 1 gave up the Ghost '' Herself closed up my dying e^es ' I\Iy PiiiLis fair whom 1 lov'd most." Legend of Gi't, OF GUYS-CLIFF. 253 *' ^ I ^ .^IMM ^ i I A Chantry estublinhed by Richard Beauchump. burial. He was interred within the cave, where he had lived, and where he had died. The fair Philis herself survived her long lost, late found husband, only fourteen days ; and was buried near him.* Two other hermits, also, it is recorded, long after this time, retired, with the same religious views, to the same spot, which might now be considered as consecrated ground. Of these, one named Thomas de Lewis, lived in the reign of Edward in. ; and the other, named John Burry, lived in that of Henry IV. So greatly celebrated, on account of its natural beauties, and the fame of its ancient inhabitant, was Quif.s Cliff, in the time of Henry V, that, when this Monarch was at ff^arwick, he was induced to visit it ; and was so much struck, at once, with the charming scenery, and the religious air of the place, that he immediately resolved to establish here a chantiy for two priests. The death of this valiant and accomplished prince, which happened soon after, at the early age of 34, defeated his pious design ; yet, in the succeeding reign, the same design was adopted, and carried into effect,j| by Richard Beauchamp, Earl of' Warwick. In 1422, the chantry was accordingly established, and two priests were appointed to celebrate mass daily, for the good estate of the Earl and his Countess, during their lives ; and, after their death, for the welfare of their souls, and that of all the faithful. The manor of Ashorne was assigned by him for their maintenance, together with the rent of some lands at J. Rovs' Roll. $ Dug DALE. II " Ricus DE BELtocAMpo cofues Wair. &:c. I^te Capullaiu de Cibcliffc, sumptuose *' repuravit el iiasicssioiubus iiidolavit."' J. lions' Uvll. 254 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT , " . ' , ,. a t 'J lie Chapel rebuilt in the Reign of Henry VI, - Whifnash and JVelleshourfie ; to which, after his death, considerable additions were made by his will. By the same will, it was also directed that the Cliapel, and other rooms, for the accommodation of the priests, should be rebuilt ; and this was accordingly done by his executors, ^about th-e year 1452, at the expence of ^183. These -executors also covered in, and inclosed by walls of stone, the two adjoining wells, as they now appear. The statue of Guy, which still remains in the Chapel, it seems, wai erected by the Earl himself, in his life time.* The first priests, who officiated in the newly- jnstituted Chantry were William Berkswell, afterwards Dean of the Collegiate Church at Warwick, and Richard Bevan. Of the succeeding priests, the names of several are still left upon record ; and amongst these stands one of distinguished fame, John Rous, the celebrated anti- tjuary to whose memoiy, the following short Ijiographical notice is justly due in a work, which owes to him so many important obligations, and in the account of a place, with which his name is so intimately associated. John Rous was descended from the Rouses of JirinJdoWf according to Dugdale ; but, according to Leland, from the Rouses of Ragln/, near Alcester. He was the son of Geoffrey Rous ; was born at JVarwich, where he received the first part of his education ; and, for the completion of it, afterwards went to Oxford. In that celebrated University, he highly distinauishcd himself, by his intense application to his studies, and hy his great and extensive emdition. Amongst other Lei.ano sajs, " Eaiii RiciiAns sett up there an Image of E. Guido, G^aul ' like." See aUo Dugdalt. OF GUYS-CLIFF. 255 ' . . , ^ Biographical Sketch of John Rous. branches of knowledge in which he excelled, " he waa " learned," says Leland, " in the mathesi," and was " a. " great histriographer." But his principal attention waa directed to antiquarian researches, relative to the history of his countiy, and especially that of his native county.^ He obtained access to many valuable manuscripts, depo- sited in the monasteries of JSngland and Wales ; which, at the Dissolution, were either lost or destroyed. When he left the University, he became one of the Chantry priests of Giiifs Cliff Chapel ; and, in that delightful retirement, composed many learned works,* one of which, Chroni- cum de Regihus Anglice, written in barbarous Latin, has been published. But most of his other works are lost. One, however, a Roll of the Earh of IFarwich, is still preserved in M. S. which contains portraitures of the Earls, II drawn by himself, accompanied by short biogra- phical sketches of each. His own portrait is placed at the end. " The life of Richard Beau champ," written by him, is also preserved, amongst Cotton's M. S. S., in the British Museum ; in which are more than fifty drawin^s, representing the principal events of his life. So great was his love of knowledge, and his desire to promote the diffusion of it, that he erected a Library over the south porch of aS"^. Mary's Church, Warwick, and fiir- The Works of J. Rous were ako Aniiquitates Warwici. De Episcopis WigorniaB. Vetustates Clivi Guidoiiici. De Comitibus War\\icenibui. De Academiis Britanuicis. Contra Ilistoriolara Caiitabrigiensein. Chroiiicon Warwiceiise. D These hate been faithtuUy copied and engraved by Smith, in the second vohim*. of his " Horda-angel-cynnan," and the original decriplioa uli tacii drawiujj is alto ptiulcd. $ Jvtivs li. IV, 256 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT Guy s-Cliff granted to Sir 'J\ Flamt/iock. nished it with books ; of which the whole are now lost. He was born in the reign of Edward IV. died in that of Henry VII. in the year 149I ; and was buried in Si. Marifs Church, where once was an inscription to his memory, long since destroyed. By a survey, taken in the reign of Henry VIII. the lands belonging to the Chapel of Gu\fs Cliff, were certified to be worth ^19. \0s.6d.; which, together with all its buildings and appurtenances, were granted, by royal license, 1st of Edward VI. to Sir Andrew Flam mock. Knight ; in whose family it continued, till, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was purchased by William Hudson, Esq. an eminent Surgeon of Kenilworfh. On the mar- riage of his daughter to Sir Thomas Beaufoy, Knight, the estate passed into that family. It became afterwards the property of Mr. Edwards, of Kenilworth ; and, from his heirs, it was purchased by the late Samuel Great- heed, Esq. by whom nearly the whole of the present edifice was built, and who greatly improved and adorned the suiToundiug pleasure grounds. On his decease, in 1765, it descended to his son, Bertie Greatheed, Esq. the present possessor. The description of this delightful place, given by Leland, so long ago as the reign of Henry VIII. is, in itself, a beautiful and spirited sketch ; and as it was, no doubt, a faithful representation of its state at that time, so it exhibits a picture, equally correct, of what it still remains. " It is the abode of pleasure," says that learned antiquary, " a place delightful to the Muses. There are " natural cavities in the rocks ; small, but shady groves ; " clear and chiystal streams; flowery meadows, mossy '^ caves, a gentle murmuring river, ninning among the OF GUYS-CLIFF. 257 Descriprioa of the Place, bif Leland, Camden, Fuller^ Dugdale, 4c- ** rocks ; and, to crown all, solitude and quiet, friendly in " so high a degree to the Muses." Camden, in the later edition of his Britannia, published about 1600, speaks of the same place concisely, yet expressively, in the fol- lowing words, quce ipsa sedes est amcenitatis which is the seat itself of pleasantness. Fuller, in his History of the PFbrthieSf written about 1662, whose language, though often quaint, is generally forcible, describes it as " a most ** delicious place ; having a steep rock, full of caves, *' washed at the bottom by a chrystal stream, besides *' many clear streams in the sides thereof; all oversj)read *' with a shady grove ; so that an ordinary fancy may ** here find to itself a Helicon and a Parnassus." And Dugdale, who published the Antiquities of Warwickshire in 1656, after reciting the description of Leland, gives his own in the following words " a place that is of so ** great delight, in respect of the river gliding below the ** rocks, the dry and w-holesome situation, and the fair " groves of lofty elms overshadowing it, that to one, who " desires a retired life, either for devotion or study, the " like is hardly to be found." Of this admired place the more recent notices are numerous ; but we shall only offer to our readers the fol- lowing, from Warner's Northern Tour, p. 235. " Two " miles before we reached JVarwich, the celebrated place *' of Mr. Greatheed attracted us to its pleasing and pic- " turesque scenery where, a beautiful combination of *' wood, rock, and wood, produces such a necromantic " effect, as almost leads one to credit the tales of tradi- *' tion which make this place the retreat of the renowned " Guv, Earl of IVarwick, when he dedicated his last *^ years to repose and prayer." K K 358 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT Approach to Guy's-Cliff. CHAP. XXVI. )tiSmptil)c Sttcount of <Bup'3Si<CIJfF. Court- Yard Principal Front the Chapel the Stables Interfor oe THE House ^ne Collection of Paintings E^TRA^CE Hall several Portraits HannibaCs Jjream Murder of Becket, SfC. Dining Roo:3< large Picture of St. Jerome a Shylock Portrait of Bonapurte-^^ other Portraits King Lear Diogenes Atahualpa Lady Macbeth Little Drawing Room Porfrajf of Maximilian View of Venice Vieics of Naples the Annunciation Landscape, by Ruysdale the Salu- tation various Portraits Great Drawing Room Madonna View of Dort on the Scheldt Potiphar's Wife and Joseph The Library Portrait of a young Artist, by himself Cave of Despair The Chapel Statue of Guy Walk Round the Grounds the Avenue * Guy's Well Guy's Cave the Rocks the Terrace. J^FTER the historical details, given in the preceding chapter, we shall now proceed to lay before our readers, the following short descriptive account of Guy's-CUff. The approach to this delightful place, from the Coventry Road, is carried along the edge of open and extensive grounds, by the side of shady plantations, ter- minated by a lofty arch of stone, through which appear^ to view THE COURT YARD. Even here the curious observer will find inter- esting objects of attention, as the whole is hewn out of the solid rock. Underneath are subterraneous passage* OF GUYS-CLIFF. 259 Court Yard Principal Front Chapel. m < ' I 'ii and cellars from one of which the influence of the ex- ternal atmosphere is so completely excluded, that the temperature is found, in the hottest and coldest days of the year, to vary only a single degree. In front, under a high archway, are the principal Stables, entirely formed in the rock ; as are other Stables, and convenient places of shelter, on the right. One of these excavations is cut o deeply, as almost to penetrate through the rock, to an opening on the opposite side. This was intended to form a second entrance, into the Court ; but the design was afterwards relinquished. Above, appear, on the summit and higher parts of the rock, trees and shrubs, whose spreading branches throw their dark shades over this singularly striking and secluded spot.* On the left, seated on the solid rock, in which -some of its lower apartments are formed, stands the Mansion, which here shews its principal front, substan- tially built of stone, exhibiting a handsome modem ap- pearance. Beyond, on the same side, is the ancient Chapel, with its embattled tower and Gothic windows, originally built in the reign of Henry VI. and still kept in a state of good repair. INTERIOR OF THE HOUSE. This consists of numerous apartments, formed more for use than shew, agreeably to the prevailing taste of our private English gentlemen. Some of those, how- ever, which are open to public inspection, are not only commodious, but handsome. Yet, the principal, and the powerful attraction, is a Collection of Paintings, of extra- ordinary merit and interest, some originals, others copies * See a pleaiiiig view of Ibis Court, m, the Beauties nf England and ]lalci. H. K 2- 2Go DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT Busts of' several of the Fnmi/i/ of Lord Lindsey, from the first masters all the production of the only son of the present possessor of Guy's Cliff- whose talents displayed a singular instance of premature genius and who, at the early age of 22, to the inexpressible grief of all who had the happiness to know him, was lost to his friends, to his country, and the world. He died Oct. 8, 1804, at Vicenxa, in Italy. Thefe are, besides, some valuable paintings, by artists of highest fame: of all which, we proceed to give some account. ENTRANCE HALL. This apartment is of good dimensions, and the ceilings and side walls are richly ornamented in plas- ter work. Here are several fine pieces of statuary. On the left is a Verms dc Medici, a cast from the oiiginal. Before, in two recesses, are the Florence Faun and Apollo, On each side of the doors, are busts of Samuel Great- HEED, Esq. and his First Lady ; and above, is a bust of Mrs. SiDDONS. Over the fire-place, in mezzo-rellevo, is a bust of Robert Bertie, Earl of Lindsey, an able and valiant military commander ; who, in the reign of Elizabeth, highly distinguished himself at the taking of Cadiz j and on other important occasions ; and who, on the breaking out of the Civil War, w^as appointed General of the King's forces ; and was mortally wounded at the battle of Ed<ie- Hill, 1G42. It was one of his posterity, Robert, who in the reign of George I. was created Duke of Ancaster ; and whose descendant. Peregrine Bertie, Duke of Ancaster, was the maternal grandfather of the present possessor of Guy^s-Ciff OF GUYS-CLIFF. 261 The Incnntation Sketch of the Story of Dri/ope, VESTIBULE. A circuitous passage conducts from the Entrance Hall to this apartment Avhich is hung round with nume- rous paintings some, indeed, merely unfinished sketches all the production of the young lamented artist one the heir of the mansion they are now destined to adorn. On one side are three portraits of Friends of the Family and a small picture called the Incantation of which the subject taken from Tasso's Jei-usalem delivered, B. XIII. is as follows ; Ismeno, the Pagan sorcerer during the siege of the Holy City, repairs at midnight, to a neighbouring wood, whence the Christian besiegers procured supplies of timber, for the construction of war- like engines. Here, standing bare-footed, in the midst of his magic circle, and waving his wand, he calls up, by his powerful spells, certain demoniacal attendants, to whom he commits the defence of the wood against all intruders ; and thus for a time obstructs, though unable finally to prevent, the success of the siege. On the opposite side in the centre Sketch of THE Story of Dryope from Ovid She was the daugh- ter of Eurytus, and wife of Andr^mon ; coming to a lake sacred to the Nymphs, in order to amuse her child, who was carried in her arms, she plucked off the boui^h of a Lotus Tree. It happened that the nymph Lotes had been transformed into this very Lotus; and as Dryope had thus offered violence to the sacred tree, for a punishment, she herself was condemned to grow to the trunk of it.* * Ovid's Metam. Lib. IX, 1.32;), &:c. 662 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT '^^^''--'-''^''""-' ~''*^'~'"'^~ ^^*^'''' ^ i Hanuibdl's Dietun Murder of Becket. On the left Hannibal's Dream of an Angel, SENT BY Jupiter, to conduct him into Italy. Strictly fenjoiiied to follow his celestial guide, without looking on either side, or behind ; at first, Hannibal fearfully obeyed. But at length, his curiosity prevailed over his apprehen- sions, and h^ looked back ! when he saw a seryent of enormous size, moving on, and destroying trees, bushes, and eveiy thing that opposed its progress. He asked what the prodigy meant ? and was answered, the devastation of Italy but, at the same time, was charged to enquire no farther sineretque fata in occulta esse.* On the right INIurder of Thomas a Becket William de Tracey, one of the conspirators, entering the Cathedral, cried out "Where is that traitor?" " Where is the Archbishop ?" " Here am I !" replied Becket, with the greatest firmness and dignity, " an '^ Archbishop, but no traitor !" '* Fly !" cried the con- spirator, " or you are a dead man !" " I will never fly,'* returned the dauntless Becket. " Then you are my *^ prisoner," exclaimed De Tracy, catching hold of his robe, " come along with me I" But Becket, resisting, seized him by the helmet, and shook him so violently, as almost threw him down. The enraged assassin then aimed a stroke Avith his sword which was, however, received by one Grim, a Priest, who stood near. At that instant, the other conspirators entered advancing from behind and the bloody tragedy speedily closed. The four busts in this Hall arc Mr. John Kemble Mr. C. Kemble tMrs. Siddons Mrs. Sid- dons' daughter modelled by that celebrated actress. Livy, Litu XXI. C. 82, ad fin. OF GUY'S-CLIFF. 263 Copy of St. Jerome, b-j Corregio. DINING-ROOM. This is a handsome apartment and ornamented with a collection of pictures which, hy their intrinsic merit, are calculated to excite high admiration ; and be- come doubly interesting from a recollection of the artist. They are exclusively the production of that youthful pencil, which, while it traced the suggestions of enthu- siastic fancy, never overstepped the modesty of nature ; and, in the moments of ardent genius, was still guided by sober feeling, and that knowledge of practical eftbct wliich is usually the fruit of long experience in the art ; but the perception of which seemed, in this instance, to he intuitive. Of these, the first, in magnitude of size, and grandeur of effect, is a copy from one of the most cele- brated of all the works of Corregio. The original was formerly at Parma, near which that great artist was born ; but the city was barbarously despoiled of it, during the wars of the French Revolution. It is now in the Louvre at Paris. The subject is The Infant Savior acknowledging a prophecy of himself, pointed out by an Angel. St. Jerome, from whom the picture is named a Father of the fourth century, famous for his interpre- tation of Scripture is, by an anachronism not unusual with painters, represented as holding the sacred volume ; and the groupe is completed by a Madonna, St. John^ and Mary Magdalene, kneeling and embracing the foot of the Savior. Of the latter figure, the exquisite beauty and grace are said to be unrivalled in modern art. The whole is considered, as one of the finest examples of the chiaroscuro a style, which Corregio himself first completely established, and in which he pre-eminently 264 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT A Shi/lock Portrait of Buonaparte. excelled. ^The copy is acknowledged, by all competent judges, to be a wonderful effort of the early powers that produced it. Next to this, is a very fine picture an original* displaying certainly the genius of the artist, in one of its higher flights perhaps even, in its very highest. It is an admirable Shylock, in which the cool determined vengeance of the Jew is powerfully depicted. He is in the act of pointing with his knife to the seal of his bond ; and, in answer to all entreaties, and to all rejDroaches, exclaiming " Till thou can'st rail this seal from ofF my bond, *< Thou but ofTeud'st thy lungs to talk so loud." A portrait of Buonaparte next succeeds, half- len2;th considered as one of the most correct likenesses of him in existence. As a proof, it is said, the mother of Buonaparte, on seeing it, was forcibly struck with its resemblance, and declared it to be the strongest she had ever seen of her son. Yet the only opportunity of seeing the extraordinary original, and of taking the sketch, was at the public audiences of 1803. The forehead is broad and prominent, the cheeks spare and sallow ; and, in the air and features, little trace appears, either of grace or dignity, Yet a certain indescribable look of deep penetration and determined resolution, betokens some- thing of the workings within of that vast and mighty mind, which, for so long a period of time now hap- pily terminated ! filled the civilized world, from one extremity to the other, with ustonishmeiit, disciuietude, and dismay. OF GUYS-CLIFF. 365 King Lear Family Portraits Diogenes. The centre-piece, on the same side, is a fine pic- ture of King Lear and his Daughter in which are introduced the Physician and the faithful Kent an original. The struggling emotions of joyful surprise at meeting his daughter, and of keen-felt shame at the recol- lection of his own groundless displeasure against her, are strongly marked in the countenance of the poor, old, for saken, half-crazed monarch, who is speaking thus " do not laugh at me ! ' For, as I am a man, I think this lady " To be my child, Cordelia." Next, is a portrait, half-length, in a mantle, of the present Possessor of Gui/s-Cliff. It is succeeded by another portrait, half-length, of his maternal uncle Brownlow Bertie, Fifth Duke of Ancaster on whose decease in I8O9, at the advanced age of 79} the title became extinct. Above the door, right of the side-board, is a third family portrait Richard Greatheed, Esa. ^brother of the present Mrs. Greatheed. Above the door, left of the side-board, is a copy of a picture of Spagnoletto, in the Dresden Gallery who, though born in Spain, was educated under the great- est masters in Italy. It is a portrait of himself in the character of Diogenes, searching for an honest man. Being observed, with a lighted lanthorn, at noon-day, in the public streets, as the story tells, looking about, as if searching for something, he was asked '* what he was seeking r" " an honest man !" replied the Cynic. L L 266 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT Prince of Peru discovering Pizurro's Igndronce Macbeth, Between the window and door, is a small, but interesting picture, an original, of which the subject is Atahualpa, Prince of Peru, discovering Pizarro*s IGNORANCE OF THE ArT OF ReADING AND WrITING. In order to convince himself of the reality of that art, which, more than all besides, struck him with astonish- ment, the Peruvian pnnce caused a Spanish word to be written on his own thumb nail, which, on presenting it to the other Spaniards, they easily read and pronounced. But PiZARRO, totally uneducated, on being requested to read it, was obliged to confess his inability. The disdain- fiil surprise of the prince, and the extreme mortification of the Spanish chief, at this discovery, are well conceived, and forcibly expressed. Between the windows is an admirable picture an original of Lady Macbeth and her Husband. The point of time is immediately after the murder of Duncan, in his chamber, by the treacherous Macbeth who, being desired to return to the scene of horrors, and to place the blood-stained daggers, by the side of the two grooms, sleeping near their royal master, in order to throw upon them the foul suspicion demurs and declines when Lady Macbeth, snatching the weapons from his hands, with a look of desperate courage, mingled with contempt for her husband's want of it, cries out ** Infirm of purpose ! ' Give me the daggers !" Over the east door ^portrait of Master G. Gray. little drawing room. In this apartment are the following painting's : OF GUY'S-CLIFF. 267 Portrait of Muximiliun View of Venice of Naples. Over the mantle-piece a portrait of Maxi- milian, Emperor of Germany grandfather of Charles V. half-length, hy Holbein, painted on wood, as are most of the portraits of that great master. This emperor, who was also a scholar and a poet, laid the foundation of the House of Austria, when he received in marriage, the heiress of the House of Burgundy, He formed many great projects most of which failed for want of money ; hence he was called Pocodenario, or Lack Mcmey. He died 1519. Below this, is a View of Venice amazingly fine hy Canaletto, the J^enetian painter. The transpa- rency in the aerial perspective is singularly striking. Above, on the right A View of Naples and on the left, another View of Naples. Below, on the right Annunciation of the Savior's Birth to the Shep- herds hy Bassano, the Italian painter whose style is accounted in a high degree, natural, simple, and pleasing ; and whose colours, especially the green, are said to have a brilliancy peculiar to himself. Below, on the left, is a fine Landscape hy Ruysdale. The ground is agreeably broken, the sky beautifully clear, the trees delicately handled, and eveiy part has the look of real nature. On the east side of this room, are the following portraits above Samuel Greatheed, Esa. Mrs. Greatheed. Below Lady Mary Greatheed Rev. J. H. Williams hy Artaud. Over the door A small Family Portrait. Opposite the fire-place above ^Two Views of Dover. Below A Landscape. Portrait of A Lady hy Sir P. Lely. L l 2 268 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT The Siilutation Portrait of the Earl of Lindsey Madonna. In the Recess Sketch of Buonaparte Dow- ager Duchess of Ancaster. On the west side of the room Salutation of the Virgin bi/ a scholar of Reubens. Portrait of the present Earl of Lindsey bit/ Sir Joshua Reynolds. great drawing room. This is an elegant a^iartmcnt; of which not the least of the attractions is the somewhat confined, hut enchanting prospect, opening to view from its circular windows. Looking downward, the great depth of the rock strikingly appears. The river winding; round it, and washing its foundation the moving water-mill the foaming cascade the wooden hridgc the flourisli- ing plantations, on the one side and the fertile meads on the other, enlivened with cattle and sheep, feeding or reposing and, in the more distant view, Gaveston Hill, on the left, Avhere the dissolute favorite of Edward II. was heheaded ^the new huilt church of PFootton in front, and the little recluse viHage of Milverton, on the right, with its nistic church ahnost buried in the shade of trees present altogetlier, a ])leasingly varied and beautiful land- scape, not often exceeded. In this room are the following paintings : over the mantle-piece Madonna and Child a copy from a painting of Raphael, in the Gallery at Dresden. In the original, the Virgin, it is said, looks with that " more than mortal dignity," and the infant innocence of the child has mingled with it, that " something divine," by which the greatest of p.iinters knew how to excite the astonishment and awe of every beholder. This copy was taken by Artaud, iu the best style of tliat artist. OF GUY'S-CLIFF. 269 View of Dort on the Scheldt Joseph and Potiphars Wife, Right hand of the fire-place View of Dort by Van Goyen whose pencil is surprisingly light and spirited, and whose pictures please from the charming facility of touch. This painting, like most of those of his best time, is marked with his name and date of the year. Leftside View on the Scheldt, with Antwerp in THE DISTANCE ^by Albert Cuyp amazingly fine the harmony and soft repose of this piece are wonderful. Cuyp, a native of Dort, was an artist of extraordinary merit. He acquired the chaste and exquisite style, for which he is so highly admired, by a close and vigilant attention to nature, under all the vicissitudes of the atmosphere, and of the seasons. In his aerial tints, it is thought no painter ever surpassed him. His pictures are more frequently met with in England than in any other country. Upper end of the room is a large portrait, three quarters length of Peregrine, Second Duke of An- caMei in his robes, and with his wand of office, as Lord Great Chamberlain of England. Over the door Potiphar's Wife endeavouring TO detain Joseph from a painting at Dresden, by Carlo Cignatii Of the original painting, the composition is adjudged to be extremely masterly ; full of fire, taste, and excellent expression ; the heads fine, the colouring good, the flesh perfect nature, and the eftect of the whole powerfully striking. The copy was taken by Monge ; and of a production so highly finished, surely it is not too nmch to say, that it can be no discredit to its great original. 270 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT Portrait of a Young Artist, by himself. LIBRARY. This apartment contains a collection of Books, not large, but choice. Its most interesting ornament, how- ever, is another admirable production of the pencil, which the same youthful and much-regretted artist, has added to the many paintings already enumerated, in a Portrait OF Himself. It was taken about a year before the de- plorable event, which ended for ever all the expectations so early and so rich a display of talent naturally excited. It is said to be a striking representation, not merely of the external form and features, but of the animating spirit that stirred within. What a precious bequest ! to its possessor how invaluable ! who might say, as was said of one of Raphael's portraits, by one of Raphael's fiiends, " h6c consoler, longos decipioque dies" STAIRCASE. But the most extraordinary eifort, perhaps, of the same youthfiil genius, is yet to be noticed. It is a picture of very large size, suspended on the side of a Staircase, entitled ^the Cave of Despair from the Fairy Queen of Spencer, Book I. Cant. IX.* With wonderful truth and force has the painter, here, given form and colour to the terrific conceptions of the poet. The cave itself, formed by craggy upright clift's, dolefiil, dark, and dreary with all its honible accompaniments the stunted and blasted trees the screeching owl the scattered bones the prostrate and still bleeding corse of one wretched Knight, urged on by Despair to self-destruction whilst another, the bare-head Knight, once half per- suaded, and still carrying on his neck the instnuiient of Appendix, No. 10. OF GUY'S-CLIFF. 271 The Chapel Statue of Guy. his intended violence now terror-struck at his own gnilty purpose is ready to start away ^but held fast by a third, the Red Cross Knight, his more intrepid companion and above all, the figure of Despair himself, with hoUoAV eyes, matted hjiir, raw-boned cheeks, and wan complexion, strongly depicting the deep, dull, dead dejection of his inmost soul preseftts, in the whole, a picture, which it is impossible to behold without shudderings of horror ; and from which the eye, at almost every instant, is glad to turn away, for necessary relief, THE CHAPEL. Returning, through the Entrance Hall into the Court Yard, the next object of attention is the Chapel, This, together with the apartments under it, was originally built in the reign of .Henry VI. about 400 years ago, as already mentioned, and was dedicated to St. Mary Mag- dalene. The rooms intended for the habitation of the priests, remain in their original state ; but the body and tower of the Chapel were repaired by the late Mr. Great- heed. The interior is still in a good state of preservation, though not fitted up, or used, as a place of worship. The Statue of Guy, erected about the time above-men- tioned, measuring nine feet in heighth, is now greatly mutilated, though traces of the gilding and other embel- lishments, are still to be seen. The figure is evidently in the attitude of drawing the sword, though the right hand is gone, and must have been so, even before the time of Dugdale, as appears from the print in his work, which is erroneously given with the right hand extended. We have been favored with an elegant Latin inscription, intended for this statue, and also with a second, in- tended for the Chapel itself, from the pen of one of the 272 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT Walk through the Pleasure Grounds Guy'i Well. greatest scholars of the age, which will be found in the Appendix.* WALK THROUGH THE PLEASURE GROUNDS. This truly delightful walk usually commences from the Blackmoor Green from the edge of which, over a low wall, the eye looks down on the abrupt descent of the rocks, to the depth of forty feet below and thence wanders, with delight, over a rich and varied landscape, stretched before it formed by a striking combination of wood and water, of meadows and gently-swelling grounds ^with a mill and a bridge, in the nearer view a cottage, or two, more in the distance sheep and cattle, grouped or scattered about ^producing the finest possible effect of beautiful rural scenery. The mill, here, full in view, deser\'es notice, not only as a pleasing object, but also on account of its great antiquity ; since, as Dugdale notices, it was in being even at the period of the Norman Conquest.^ Passing under the venerable shade of a noble avenue, formed by rows of aged and lofty firs a gentle descent conducts to Guy's IVell at which, according to popular story, that religious Champion was accustomed to slake his daily thirst. By order of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of JVarwick, " the silver wells in the meadows,'* says Leland, " were inclosed with pure white sleek " stones, like marble, and a pretty house, erected like a ** cage, one end only open, to keep comers from the " rain." This was done in the time of Henry VI. and Appendix, No. Jl, $ II ii mcDtioiied in Doomiday Book. OF GUYS-CLIFF. 273 Gvy's Care Fair Phillis's Wulk. it remains still, as it was then left. The water, issuing from two circular apertures, is beautifully clear. It is remarkable, that the side of the well, opposite the e^i- trance, is covered with moss, which, below the surface of the water, is petrified ; but, in the obscurer parts, there is neither moss nor petrifaction a striking instance of the effect of light upon the growth of vegetables. From Gnt/'s JVell, the walk conducts under that part of the rock, on the perpendicular edge of which the mansion is seated, which here rises to view in a striking manner, and would afford, from many points, excellent subjects for the pencil. Here, the overhanging ivy is frequently seen, richly cloathing the sides of the rock in which are several chambers, or excavations, artificially formed. The Chapel next appears, with the apartments under it, anciently the habitation of the Chantry Priests, still remaining entire and unaltered; and immediately beyond is Guifs Cave; " Where, with his hands, he hewed a house, " Out of a craggy rock of stone : " And lived, like a Painier poor, " Wiiiiin that house, alone." ^ Yet it has all the appearance of being a natural cavity. The upper part, at least, exhibits no marks of the chisel ; though, evidently, the lower part is hewn out of the rock, and bears the appearance of a grave ; in which, as tradition tells, the mighty warrior was interred. On the side of this cavern is an inscription, in Saxon charac- ters, no longer legible ; though a few single letters may yet be traced. Above, is the walk, stiil known by the name of Fair PldlUss IJ'alk ; who, according to the 274 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT Fine Appearance of the Rockst ^c. legendary tale, was here accustomed to repair, whilst her husband, though unknown to her as such, was engaged in his devotion, underneath. Pursuing the course of the walk the rocks now assume a bolder and more romantic appearance ; and from their towering heighth, the vast variety in their form and colour, and the great diversity of trees, shrubs, and creeping plants, which every where fix their roots, and spread and throw their branches, the scene becomes finely picturesque approaching to the grander views of nature. Whilst, on the opposite side, appear, in pleasing contrast, the winding course of the gently flowing river, and the soft fertility of the meadows, shut in by a small circuit of rising and highly cultivated grounds. In no part is the fascination of Gui/s-CliJf more strongly felt than here ; and, at every successive turn and step, some new attraction will meet and strike the admiring eye. Ascending from the lower walk a winding path, carried through a shady plantation, conducts to the sum- mit of the rock whence, from its perpendicular edge, looking over a low wall, the downward view to the depth', of almost 60 feet will again surprise and the surround- ing landscape, with all its pleasing variety, seen from a new point, again delight the eye. From this spot, passing towards the terrace the tower of St. Mary's church, first opens strikingly to view and, next, those of the venerable Castle, and the spire of ^S'^. Xlcholas, are successively disclosed, ascending above the summit of stately spreading trees and groves forming one of those highly picturesque and beautitiil OF GUYS-CLIFF. 275 View from the Terrace. prospects, which we have already had occasion to notice.* From the terrace, a short downward path soon brings to its termination near the arch-way entrance this tnily enchanting walk to which may well be applied, what was said of it, more than a century ago, by one of the older writers, before quoted " a most delicious place this," says Fuller, " so that a man, in travelling many miles, cannot meet so much astonishing variety as this one furlong doth afford." Some of the striking features of the interesting and romantic scenery of Guy's-Cliff, are pleasingly no- ticed in the following lines of I ago : Here " The tranquil scene lulls the tumultuous breast " To sweet composure. Here the gliding stream " That winds its wat'ry path in many a maze, " As loth to leave tli' encliantcd spot, invites " To moralize on fleeting time, and life, " VVith all its treach'rous sweets, and fading joys, " In emblem shewn, by many a short lived flow'r, " That on its margin smiles, and smiling falls " To join its parent earth. Here let me delve, ** Near thine,^ my chamber, in the peaceful rock, " And think no more of gilded palaces, " And luxury of sense. From the tili'd glebe ' Or ever teeming brook, my frugal meal " I'll gain, and slake my thirst at yonder spring. " Like thee, I'll climb the steep, and mark ilie scene, < How fair! how passing fair! in grateful strains " Singing the praises of creative love." See page 69. Guv. M M 2 276 HISTORY OF Deriviilion of the Natne. CITAP. XXVII. ^ijBftotp of ileamington ^ciorisf. Derivation of the Name anciently the Possession of Turchill de Warwick of Roger de Montgomery of the Bishop of Chester of Geoffrey de Clinton of Gilbert de Nulricius of the Priors of Kenilzvorth of Ambrose Dudley Church antiently a Chapel, belonging to WoottonSalt Springs noticed by Camden and other early Writers their Nature investigated by Guidot -and other early Medical Enquirers their Medical Virtues noticed and recommended by Dr. Kerr First Baths erected Second Baths erected Analysis of the Water, by Dr. I.ambe lUse of the Public Opinion in ils Fwvor Progress of the Public Opinion Rapid Change of Leamington, from an obscure Village to a celebrated Watering Place. J^EAMINGTON PRIORS, situated two miles from JVarivich, on the road to Soiitham and Daventrtj, derives the first part of its name, from the river Learn, which flows through it; and the second, from the circumstance of its having formerly belonged to the Priors of Kenilicorth. Still more anciently, it appears to have been part of the vast possessions of Turchill, the last and the most powerful of all the Earls of Warwick of the Saxon Line. About that time, according to Domesday Booh, it was two hides in extent, equal to about two hundred acres of land. It was then valued at ^4 ; and two mills are expressly mentioned, as standing Avithin its precincts. After the Conquest, it was the natural policy of William I. to depress the Saxon, and to enrich and exalt the Norman Barons. Turchill himself, indeed, who LEAMINGTON PRIORS. 277 Succestive Proprietors of the Estate. had given no active support to Harold, was permitted to remain in the undisturbed enjoyment of ahnost all his immense possessions. But his son, less favoured, was despoiled of many of his paternal estates ; and, among these, of Leamington, Avhich was immediately granted to Roger de Montgomery, a Norman Baron, high in the favor of his Sovereign, who was afterwards created Earl of Shrewsbury. Roger was succeeded, in his title and estates, by his eldest son Hugh ; and, upon his death, iu the reign of William Rufus, by his second son, Robert, usually called De Belesmo, from the name of a Castle, which belonged to him. This nobleman, on the accession of Henry I. took a decided part against him, in favor of Robert, Duke of Normandy, who was the true heir to the Crown ; and even prepared to support his pretensions by force of arms. He was, in consequence, declared a traitor ; and soon found himself so vigorously attacked, that he was obliged to retire, first from his own domains, and afterwards from the kingdom. All his possessions in England were immediately confiscated, and bestowed upon others ; and, of these, Leamington was granted to the Bishop of LicJ/feld and Coventry, who was then designated, from the place of his residence, Bishop of Chester* From this Bishop, within no long time, Leam- ington passed into the possession of Geoffrey de Clinton, celebrated as the founder, both of the Castle. and the Priory of Kenihcorth ; and by him, it was trans- ferred to Gilbert Nutricius, of IVarwich, and his heirs, who held it, by the service of half a Knight's fee. * Dugda'e, p. i'5J. 278 HISTORY OF The Church anciently a Chapel belonging to Woottoii. Whether this grant was forcibly resumed, or whether the estate was re-purchased, is uncertain ; but, it appears that it soon reverted to its former possessor ; and that, by his son, Geoffrey de Clinton, about the year 11 66, it was given, at the same time with a considerable number of other estates, to the Canon and the Priors of Kenilwortk, In the possession of that religious fraternity, one of the wealthiest in the kingdom, it continued, without interrup- tion, till the period so fatal to all monastic institutions, in the reign of Henry VIII. ; when it was seized by the Crown ; and was retained by it, till, in the 6th of Queen Elizabeth, it was granted to Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick,* After the death of that brave and virtuous nobleman, who devoted the services of his life, and his life itself, to the good of his country, in default of male issue, the title became extinct ; though it was soon revived in favor of Robert Lord Rich. After this time, the estates of Leamington seem to have fallen into the hands of various proprietors ; and, at present, the manerial rights, and a considerable portion of the land, within the precincts of the parish, belong to the noble family of Aylesford. The church, in this village, dedicated to All Saints, was originally a chapel, belonging to Leek Wootton, once a very extensive parish, situated at the distance of two miles, on the opposite side of the river, in the road from IVarwick to Kenilw(yrth.% In the reign of Edward I. the vicarage was valued at 20s. ; in that of Henry VI I L at ,^6. ; and its value, at this time, is estimated at about ^150. It is in the gift of the Rev. Henry Wise, of Dugdale, p. 256. X Ibid. LEAMINGTON PRIORS. 27<) " ' ' ^^ Saline Springs noticed hi/ Camden and other- early Writers. the Priory^ at Warwick, and the present incumbent is the Rev. John Wise, of LilUngton, The Saline Springs, for which this village is now so greatly celebrated, have long been known to its inha- bitants, and to those of its immediate vicinity ; and they are also distinctly noticed by many of our earlier writers. Camden, in his Britannia, published about 1586, after having mentioned the name, and described the situation of Leamington, adds, " Ubi Jons salsus ebullit.^' Speed, in the " Theatre of Great Britain,''' published in 1 596, remarks, " at Leamington, so far from the sea, a spring of " salt water boileth up." Fuller, in his " History of the fVortkies of Great Britain" pul^lished in 1662, observes, with all his usual singularity of thought, and quaintness of language " At Leamington, two miles from *^ Warwick, there issue out, within a stride, of the womb " of the earth, two twin springs, as diiferent in taste and *' operation, as Jacob and Esau in disposition ; the one " salt, the other fresh. This the meanest countryman *' does plainly see by (heir effects : whilst it would puzzle *' a consultation of physicians to assign the cause thereof.'* DuGDALE, whose first edition of the Antiquities of War- wickshire, was published in 1656, observes, " that nigh to *^ the east end of the church, there is a spring of salt '* water, whereof the inhabitants make much use in " seasoning their meat :" to which Dr. Thomas adds, in his edition of 1730, " and also, strangers used it medi- ** cinally, with success." Some time before the period last mentioned, the saline springs of Leamington began to engage the notice of medical writers, on the subject of mineral waters. Of J?80 HISTORY OF Saline Springs ernrnnted bj/ Gxiidot and others. these, the earliest was Dr. Guidot, who Avrote about the year 1689, and who described it as " a spring of nitrous " water." Tliis account, however, was afterwards ex- amined, and, with some severity of censure, rejected by Dr. Short, who published his " Treatise on Mineral Waters,'" in l'^ 40; but who himself, surely, did not suffi- ciently understand, or coiTectly describe, the nature of the water, when he called it " a mere brine spring." He was folloAved, at the distance of a few years, by Dr. Rutty, one of the most indefatigable of all the early enquirers into the nature and properties of mineral waters. His large and comprehensive work, entitled, " A Methodical Si/nopsis of Mineral fVaters^'' including a minute exa- mination of all the most celebrated mineral springs in this and other European countiies, was published in I'Jb'J. In this work is contained, among the rest, a particular account of Leamington Water ; which he considered, with Dr. Short, as strongly impregnated with marine salt; and yet he was led from various experiments, to consider it, with Dr. Guidot, as possessing a considerable portion of calcareous nitre. Upon the whole, therefore, he decided it to be " a salino-nitrous spring." After carefiil evaporation, he found that a gallon of water yielded 960 giains of sediment ; 30 of which were calcareous earth, and the rest marine salt. I'he same experiment was afterwards made, attended with exactly the same results, by Dr. Russell, whose treatise on the subject of sea water and salt springs, was published in \'jGb. It will, how- ever, be seen, in another part of this work,* that the quantity of residuum, estimated by these early experimen- talists, greatly exceeds that which the accurate analysis Sec CLap. 31, LEAMINGTON PRIORS. 281 The Water recommended by Dr. Kerr First Baths erected. of modern times has discovered. It must, therefore, be supposed either that their experiments were not sufficiently correct, or that the water itself has lost a portion of the strength, which it once possessed. But, notwithstanding these early and distinct no- tices of Leamington fVater, by medical and other writers, it continued to be, for a long time, little known, or little regarded, except by the inhabitants of the place, and the surrounding neighbourhood ; by whom, says Dr. Short, it was drunk in the great quantity of two or three quarts ; and was found, he adds, to be very efficacious in the cure of scorbutic and other complaints. At length, however, the period arrived, which we may fix about the year 1784, when the water of Leamington began to attract some share of public attention ; for which, it was principally indebted to the favourable opinion of Dr. Kerr, of Northampton ; whose sagacity first clearly penetrated into its valuable qualities; and whose powerful recommendation first led to a fair and reasonable trial of its medical virtues, in several cases of disorder, particularly those of the chronic kind. It was by his advice, and under the sanction of his great authority, that, in the year 1786, a new well was opened, and the First Baths were erected, by Mr. Thomas Abbotts, a native of the village ; whose claims may, therefore, without hesitation, be admitted in subordination to the higher claims of Dr. Kerr to the proud distinction of being the Jirst founder of Leamington Spa. These baths, which consisted only of one hot and one cold bath, for several years, were found sufficient to answer all the demands of those who resorted hither ; who were, then, indeed, no more than a few invalids ; and for whom no other accommodations were N N 282 HISTORY OF The Second Baths erected. provided, besides that which two small inns, the Dog and the Bowling Green, together with the humble rooms of three or four cottages, slightly improved in theu* ap- pearance and furniture, afforded. But the dawn of a brighter day was approaching. The favorable opinion of the water, first entertained by Dr. Kerr, not only gathered strength in his own mind; but was adopted, and zealously acted upon, by other physi(rians, and particularly by Dr. Johnstone, of Binningham ; and, in consequence, the number of annual visitants greatly increased. In the year 1790, the rising reputation of Leamington became still more distinctly apparent, in the opening of a new well, and the erection of a new range of baths ; built upon a plan of greater convenience and spaciousness, and with some attention even to elegance, by Matthew Wise, Esq. of Leam- ington. As yet, however, nothing more was done, in the providing of lodgings for the reception of strangers, except fitting up, in a slight way, the rooms of a fevr additional cottages and the general aspect of tbe place still wore the same appearance as before, of a rural and retired village. But an event of great importance, in the history of Leamington^ distinguished the year 1^94. This was the publication of an ingenious analysis of tbe water by Dr. Lam be, who, at that time, practised as a ])bysician, with great reputation and success, at IVarwick. From this analysis, which was first giveu to the jmblic, in the Memoirs of the Manchester Philosophical Society*, it Vol. v, LEAMINGTON PRIORS. 283 Dr. Lumbe's Anultfsis of the Water. distinctly appeared, that Leamington IVuter greatly re- sembled in its nature, and in all its distinguishing pro- perties, the water of Cheltenham, which was then rising to the h eighth of its fame ; and that the medical effects to be expected from both are nearly the same. There is, indeed, one remarkable difference, consisting in the quantity of iron, which the one has been supposed to contain more than the other ; though it will be seen, in the sequel of the present publication, that this quantity, either from mistake or design, has been greatly over- stated. In opposition to this, however, and to every other superiority, on the side of Cheltenham, whether real or supposed, one clear and important advantage, in re- commendation of Leamington, soon became sufficiently evident ; which is the abundant supply of the mineral water, in a degree adequate to every probable demand, not merely for drinking, but even for hot and cold bathing. At Cheltenham, on the contrary, the saline spring, it is well known, issues in so slow and scanty a stream, as scarcely to afford, in a crowded season, a supply sufficient for drinking ; and of course to expect the larger supplies, that would be required for general bathing, is impossible. It has been found necessary, therefore, to erect, in different parts of the town, baths, to be filled with common water,* the great inferiority of which to saline water, for all the salutary purposes of bathing, especially warm bathing, has been too long and too well understood, to need to be pointed out in this place. * Someiimes, however, the biinc which remains after the chrjatalliMlIoii uf the snitl J5 mixed with it. N N 2 284 HISTORY, &c. Ki:iing Reputation of the Water. So much was the pubh'c attention excited, in con- sequence of the analysis of Dr. Lambe, added to the high medical recommendations, before mentioned, that Leam- ington rapidly rose into great and general notice ; and the number of its visitants, with every succeeding year, pro- digiously increased. Every cottage now made haste to furnish its lodgings ; every lodging, to improve its ap- pearance ; new wells were opened ; new baths were con- structed ; new houses erected ; and not only new streets were formed in the Old Town, as it now began to be called; but the plan of an entirely New Town was laid, which has since been partly carried into execution, including Assem- bly Rooms, a Pump Room, and Public Batlis, built upon a scale of magnificence, scarcely equalled, certainly not exceeded, by those of any watering-place, in this or any other country. Thus, in the course of little more than ten years, from an obscure and insignificant village, has Leamington become, the crowded and fashionable resort of those, who are in search of health or pleasure, from all parts of England, Scotland, and even Ireland. Of this great and astonishing change in the state of Leamington, we shall now proceed to give an account, somewhat more in detail, in the three following chapters. THE WELLS AND BATHS, &c. 285 The Wells and Baths. CHAP. XXYIII. 8e Wtll^ anls 55at!j^ of Hleamtngton. The Public Well the Center Well the Road Well the Bridge Well^lhe South Well the North Well the Pump Room the Neio Baths Abundant Supply of the Mineral Wnter Terms for Bathing, ^c. \^0 general is the custom, amongst the more opulent classes of society, of making annual visits to some or other of the numerous Watering Places, with which this coun- try abounds, that it may now be fairly considered as one of the prevailing and established customs of the times ; and as forming a striking characteristic, in the present manners of Englishmen. It may well be expected, therefore, that the invalids, whom necessity drives, or flattering hope allures, to any of these medicated springs, will always be out-numbered by those, whose only object, in resorting thither, is an agreeable change of scene, or a pleasing relaxation from the cares of business ; and by those, still more, who have chiefly in view the delights, which gay amusements, in quick and constant succession, and fashion- able company, in moving and splendid crowds, afford. Of these two classes if any individual of either should deign to cast an eye over these pages it is to the former, rather than the latter, that the present chapter is addressed. With invalids, of course, in meditating a journey towards whatever salutary fountain, their own judgment, or the 286 THE WELLS AND BATHS The Public Well. advice of their physician, may direct them, the first and leading enquiry will be into the facilities afforded for the internal or external application of the waters. To such enquirers, resorting to Leamingtony or having a visit to it in contemplation, we shall now endeavour to furnish an answer reserving for succeeding chapters, other en- quiries of no small importance, not to invalids only, but to all others, relating to the salubrity of the air, the accommodations of the place, and the pleasantness of the surrounding country. Of the springs already discovered there are at present six ; and if more were required or sought for, it is probable that as many more might yet be found. As it is convenient that the different wells should be distin- guished by some permanent names^ instead of the ever- changing names of the proprietors, it has been suggested that appellations, derived from situation, or any other obvious circumstance, would be preferable ; and with this view, the following names having been proposed, we shall M'ithout hesitation adopt them, in the following account. THE PUBLIC WELL. This is the very ancient spring, which is noticed by Camden, and other early writers ; and on which the experiments were made, as already mentioned, l)y Dr. Short, and other early medical enquirers. Dugdale, in describing its situation, fixes it at the east, by mistake, instead of the west end of the church ; but he is correct in saying it is not above a stone's throw from the river Learn ; and others still nearer have since been discovered. Formerly this spring flowed spontaneously, from a small fissure in the rock ; and it was here, that the hardy nis- OF LEAMINGTON. 287 The Center Well tics of ancient days flocked, to diink the healing water ; which they swallowed, it is said, in copious draughts of two or three quarts ; and that at a time, too, when, pro- bably, its strength was much greater than it is at present. Being situated on the waste land, this spring of course belongs to the Lord of the Manor, who is the Earl of AvLESFORD ; and who, at his own expence, lately inclosed it, by a small but elegant structure. Here, it was intended that a bath should be formed, for the exclusive use of the poor ; but the design was afterwards laid aside ; and the building is now only used as a room for drinking the water. Though built considerably below the surface of the ground, to which the descent is by a flight of stone steps, yet the water no longer flows spontaneously ; and recourse is now had to the use of a small pump, to which access may be obtained, on the same terms, as at the other wells. It must not be omitted that a second pump, affixed to the external wall of this building, is left to the free and unrestrained use of the poor. THE CENTER WELL. The second spring, proceeding in the order ot discovery, is situated at a small distance opposite the Public Well, and nearly in the center of the village. Upon sinking this well, in the year 1786, a rock was found at the distance of eighteen feet : and \\'ithin this rock, about three feet in depth, the saline water rises. The baths here erected, about thirty years ago, by Mr. Thomas Abbotts, and now the property of his daughter, Mrs. Smith, were formerly as humble in their appearance, as that of the whole suiTounding village. But they have, since that time, shared in the general improvement of the place ; and are now neatly and coinmodiously fitted up. 288 THE WELLS AND BATHS The Road Well the Bridge Well. They coHsist of a cold bath, three hot baths, one of which is formed of marble ; and a small bath for the use of children. THE ROAD WELL. The third spring, situated in the high road from IVarwick to Daventry and London, is the property of Mr. Wise, and was discovered in 1790. Here the water was found at the great distance of forty-two feet, from the sur- face of the ground. A well was first sunk to the depth of twenty-four feet. In the course of that depth, there is a rock, in thickness about eight or ten feet ; next a bed of marl ; and after this a rock much harder than the former. Through this second rock, a bore was made eighteen feet deep, were a cleft was found, through which the water flows copiously. ^The baths here erected are commodious and handsome. There are two cold baths, large and well constructed ; and two good hot baths, all of which are furaished with the convenience of dressing rooms ; and there is also a small bath for the use of children, To these, four additional hot baths are now constructing ; and, immediately adjoining, the foundation is laid of a new pump room. THE BRIDGE WELL. The fourth spring, which belongs to Mr. Robbins, was first discovered in 1810, and is situated close to the bed of the river, and near the bridge. Here, the water was found at the depth of only twenty feet. The baths which it supplies, are spacious and commodious, compris- ing one large cold bath, three hot baths, one of which is formed of beautiful marble; and a child's bath ; all, ex- WELLS AND BATHS. 289 The South Well The liorth Well. cept the last, furnished with good dressing rooms. The water is pumped up by a sort of horse engine. THE SOUTH WELL. The fifth spring, discovered in 1810, situated at the. Southern extremity of the village, is the property of the Rev. Mr. Read. Here it was necessary to dig to the prodi- gious depth of sixty feet, before the water could be found ; and it is remarkable, that, in every well yet opened, the depth increases, in some sort of proportion to its distance from the bed of the river. On sinking this well, after pass- ing through gravel, in which is a fine spring of fresh water, a bed of red marl, eight feet in thickness, presents itself; next a white clay and sand stone, in which w^ater of a brackish taste was found. Hard rock, 28 feet thick, next succeeds ; and, after it, a bed of softer stone, followed by another of marl, below which the water rises. The bathsj, here erected, are neat and good, though without the con- venience of dressing rooms. They consist of one cold bath, formed with Dutch tiles ; three hot baths^ one of which is of marble; and a child's bath. THE NORTH WELL. The sixth spring, situated on the north side of the river, was discovered in 1810, at the depth of thirty-four feet, below the surface of the ground. Here numerous baths, and a pump-room, on a grand scale, have been erected, at the expense of about ^25,000. This great building presents a noble front ; and consists of a central part, extending one hundred and six feet, in length, and rising to the height of thirty ; supported by two wings, extending thirty feet, and rising to the height of twenty. It is surrounded^ on three of its sides, by a spacious coloa- o o 290 ACCOUNT OF THE Pump Hooui The Hew Baths. nade, formed by duplicated pillars of the Doric order. The whole is built of native stone, designed by Mr. C. S. Smith, architect of London ; and forms, certainly, one of the most complete and magnificent structures of the kind, in the kingdom. Pump Room, Through folding doors, at each extremity of the central building, just mentioned, are the two entrances into the Pump Room ; which is of large size, of lofty height, and noble proportions. The ornamental parts of the ceiling,' the cornices, and all the interior embellish- ments are in the purest taste of simple elegance. This fine room is lighted, on one side, by a range of seven win- dows ; and, on the opposite side, by one large w^indow of coloured glass. Below this last, at equal distances, are two beautiful chimney-pieces, of Kilkenny/ marble. At one extremity of the room is the pump ; which, with a basin in the centre, standing on an ornamental pedestal of Derhyshire marble, is inclosed, by a neat mahogany balustrade. The New Baths. In the two wings of this great edifice, are the principal entrances to the baths which are formed in two divisions, entirely separated ; one appropriated to the use of tlie ladies, the other to that of the gentlemen. Ilie number of baths is in the whole twenty ; consisting of every j)0'isible kind, hot baths, tepid baths, vapour baths, shower b;iths, hot and cold douche for topical applications, and a chair bath, which is an excellent contiivance for the safe and easy conveyanceof the bather, on the undressing chair, into the bath. All the baths are of good size, cou- WELLS AND BATHS. 291 Abundant supply/ of the Mineral Water. structed in the best manner, formed with Dutch tiles; and the contrivance, for filling and emptying them expeditiously, and for regulating them easily and exactly to any required degree of heat, is admirable. To many of them, convenient dressing rooms are attached. The water is drawn from the well, by means of a steam engine of two-horse power* which itself is an object of curiosity, as a striking and beautiful specimen of the great perfection, to Avhich that most astonishing and important of all human inventions is now can'ied. It would be injurious to omit stating that, of this noble range, one cold and two hot baths have been appropriated, by the benevolent direction of the Pro- prietors, to the use of the poor. In concluding this account of the wells and baths of Leamington, il must again be distinctly noticed, that there is an abundant supply of the mineral water, at every season of the year, not only for drinking, but for all the purposes of bathing: though, as it is affected, in some de- gree, by the rain, its efficacy is greatest in the summer. It is in this important respect, that Leamington., as before remarked, may justly claim so decided a superiority over the sister springs of Cheltenham ; though yielding to thera, certainly, in the quantity of some of the more valualile ingredients, which they contain. Whilst, at the latter place, no mineral water can be procured for bathing at all, and the supply is scanty even for drinking ; at the former, tlie copiously-Howing stream has been found sufficient to answer, not only every present, but every future probable demand, both for internal and ex- ternal application; even if the numbers resorting hither, should be as great as at the most crowded watering-place in the kingdom. 002 292 ACCOUNT OF THE II'' ' Comparative advantages of Warm and Cold Bathing. Every warm bath, when not used, is kept empty ; in that state it is shewn to those who apply ; and, in their presence, or whilst in the act of undressing, the process of filling takes place, which requires only two or three minutes. The cold baths are generally supplied with fresh water, once every day, and might oftener, if required; which is seldom the case, since of late the use of the cold, has been almost entirely superseded by that of the warm, or tepid, bath. This is no doubt owing to the opinion, now so prevalent in the medical world, that the latter, as a remedy for most disorders, is far more safe, and as conducive to general health, usually more benefi- cial, than the former. In those few instances, however, in which cold bathing might still be thought desirable or necessary, if the good effect depends upon the degree of cold, that of Leamington water is very considerable, its usual temperature being from 48 to 50 (Fahrenheit) with little variation, winter or summer. But so far as the su- perior efficacy of saline above common water is concerned, this, it seems evident, must be almost entirely confined to its use, as ii.u:arm bath. For, since the immersion, in cold bathing, is usually momentary, and the moisture remain- ing on the skin is immediately wiped oft^ it is inconceiv- able that salt water, in this case, can be more beneficial than common water. But where the person continues immersed for some length of time, as is the case in warm bathing, the saline ingredients may then be imbibed by the pores ; and thus become of considerable utility in the relief of cutaneous and other disorders, for which it is usually recommended.* Saunder* ou Mineral Waters, p. 492 WELLS AND BATHS. 29a isssssssss , " ,, ' ' BggSS=^ Terms for Drinking and Bathing. The times for bathing and drinking the water, as fixed by custom, are before breakfast, or between break- fast and dinner. Bathing in the evening, too, before going to rest, is not uncommon. The terms for drinking the water, are at all the springs the same, and amounts only to a small gratuity, occasionally given to the person who attends with glasses, and who is always prepared with the water warmed, for those that prefer the use of it in that state. The terras for bathing are, for a common warm or hot bath, 26; 6d. for a marble bath, 3*. and for a cold bath 1^. At the "New Baths the charge for a warm bath is 3*. and for a cold bath Is. 6d. 294 ANALYSIS OF I^eiv Chemical Analysis of the Water. CHAP. XXIX. ^m\^0t0 of Seamttt^ton Wattx* Earlier Analyses of the Water Causes of its present celebrity Dr. Lambe'i Analysis Nero Analysis of the Bridge Well Sensible qualities of the Water Experiments to determine the more simple principles Experi- ments to determine the nature of the compouiid substances Gaseous contents of the Water Table of the substances contained in the Water of the Bridge Well of the Public Well of the Center Well of the Road Well of the South Well Medical uses of the Water taken internally-^ Advantages of Bathing Experiment to determine the effects of Hot and Warm Bathing Comparative account of Cheltenham Water Error of Mr. Accum's Analysis Table of substances contained in the Water of the Old Well of the Orchard Well of the two Wells of Mr. Thompson. Jr OR the valuable communication, which forms the subject of the present chapter, it will be seen that the public are indebted to a highly respectable Member of the medical profession who resided, a few years ago, at IVariiich ; and in whose removal from that place, the Inhabitants had to regret the loss of an attentive and humane Physician, largely furnished with learning and science; and capable of applying to tlie best purposes that knowledge and that skill, which experience alone can supply. Honoured, on many occasions, Mitli his friendly regards, the Writer of these pages, feels great satisfaction, in introducing to the notice of his readers the following Chemical Analysis of Leamington Water : LEAMINGTON WATER. 295 Earlier Anali/ses noticed. Dear Sir, I feel flattered by the wish, you have expressed, to insert my Analysis of the Leamington Water, in your interesting publication ; and shall be much grati- fied, if it be found to convey useful information to the numerous visitors of the place. The experiments, upon which it is founded, were for the most part made, during my late residence at Warwick ; Avhere I had full oppor- tunity of satisfying myself upon every doubtful point, by frequent visits to the spot. They have been since that time repeated without material difference in the result; I trust, therefore, that it may be considered as a near ap- proximation to the truth : perfect accuracy is not pretended to, and is probably unattainable, as no two analyses are ever found completely to agree. This water appears to have been noticed at a veiy early period, being mentioned by Dugdale, in his An- tiquities of Warwickshire, and since adverted to by all our systematic writers, upon mineral waters. Dr. Guidot^ the earliest of them^ towards the close of the 17th century, attributed its qualities to what he called Nitre. Short, (1740) properly enough calls it a common weak brine spring; the laborious Rutty, (1757) a common brackish or salt spring, of the salino nitrous kind ; a gallon of which, he says, yielded 960 grains of sediment; whereof 30 were calcareous earth, the rest marine salt. Dr. Rus- sell, about 17^0, describes it in the same terms ; and says, a gallon yielded 960 grains of sediment, whereof 30 were calcareous nitre, and the rest sea salt. Their experiments were made upon the water of the old well, situated upon the waste ; which was elegantly enclosed, a few years ago, for the benefit of the public, by the benevolence of the late 296 ANALYSIS OF Causes of the present celebrity of the Waters. Earl of Aylesford, Lord of the Manor. If they are accu- rate, it must have become materially weaker, in the course of half a century ; the gross produce, at present, being only two-thirds of what they state it to be. I am not inclined to attribute the whole of this great difference to mere evaporation ; the process of which, as described by Dr. Rutty, in the preface to his methodical Synopsis, seems to have been sufficiently well conducted : it appears to me more probable that its strength may have been somewhat reduced, by lapse of time But though thus cursorily noticed by hydrological writers, and empirically used by the neighbourhood, from time immemorial ; it is to the sagacity of Dr. Kerr, of Northampton, that it primarily owes its present high repu- tation. He was in the habit of recommending it to his patients, long before it became publicly known ; and to his perseverance, and continued perception of its virtues, and, I believe, to his actual suggestion, are the first baths, constructed by Mr. Abbotts, in I786, to be ascribed. To these succeeded a more elegant set, erected by Mr. Wise, of Leamington, four years after; and so large has the resort since been, to this favoured spot, that, in the course of the last eight years, four new wells have been sunk, besides the enlargement and enclosure of the public one above mentioned. To each of these, elegant baths are annexed, both hot and cold, with every accommodation, necessary to recommend them to public favour. The last set, just completed, on the north side of the river, on the ground and under the auspices, of Mr. Greatheed, of Guy's-Cliff, are adorned by a structure, which camiot fail to an'cst the attention of evei*y beholder. To the most beautiful exterior, is united every internal requisite; there LEAMINGTON WATER. 297 Causes of the cekbriti/ of the Springs, being no fewer than 20 commodious baths, plentifully supplied with the saline water,, by a steam engine, ^vith every convenience for its application in whatever form it may be wanted, whether for local or general purposes ; and a magnificent pump-room is added, for the conveni- ence of those who drink the water the whole forming a truly splendid addition both of elegance and utility to the New Town. The following circumstances seem to have chief- ly contributed to give such rapid celebrity to these springs. 1. The greater importance recently attached by the faculty to warm bathing, and aperient waters, in the treatment of various diseases. 2. The actual benefit, which had, for many preceding years, been experienced from the internal use of the saline water of Cheltenham. 3. But, above all, the great abundance of the supply, which has been found sufficient to afford to the invalid the double advantage of drinking ^nd bathing : the valua- ble springs of Gloucestershire, it is well known, are not copious enough for this purpose. To these should be added, the numerous attractions of the neighbourhood, both natural and artificial the proximity of an elegant market town ; the excellence of tlie roads ; and tlie healthi- ness of the place itself. Cultivated and so highly improved, as every de- partment of chemistry has been, for some time past, it is xather surprising that no regular analysis of this useful water has yet appeared. Curiosity has, doubtless, led many to the private examination of it ; but the only scien_ tific account, that I have seen, is that of my predecessor, Dr. Lambe ; who seventeen years ago, bestowed consider- p p 298 ANALYSIS OF Analysis of' the Bridge Welt. able pains upon the subject.* His object, however, was not so much to detail its composition, as to explain some anomalous appearances, which presented themselves in the course of his enquiry : he, therefore, contented him- self with stating the result only of his investigation. There will be perceived an essential difference between us, in one article, viz. the sulphate of soda ; of which he assigns a much larger proportion than was indicated in my experiments. In other respects, I believe, we do not materially differ. As all these wells appear to be similar in the quality of their contents, and most of them nearly so in their quantity ; I have, for the purpose of the fol- lowing analysis, selected that which is manifestly the strongest ; and which, from its situation, I would call the Bridge Well. ANALYSIS OF THE BRIDGE WELL. This well was sunk, in the spring of the year I806, by the direction of Mr. Robbins, the proprietor of the ground. On digging a few feet below the surface, through a blue clay or marl, two or three thin strata of sand stone successively presented themselves, increas- ing in thickness. After passing these, a solid rock came in view, which being struck into, poured forth a body of strongly saline water, that soon nearly filled the well. The depth of this rock is, I believe, about twelve feet See Memoirs of llie Philosophical Transactions of Manch< sier, Vol. V. Since Dr. WiNiHROi-'s removal from Warwick, " A Ciicinical Analjiis of Leaniington Water, by Amos Middlkton, M. D." lias appeared, and has been so favouiablj rcttivcd bj th pubHc, ht it has already reached itj third edition. Ei*. LEAMINGTON WATER. 295 Sotsibte Qjiulities of the Water Its more simple Principles. below the surface. The water was pumped out ; and a ch'cular brick-Avork constructed, within the well, from the sides of which k was defended by clay. A pump was then iuserted, and a eoveriag placed over it. SENSIBLE aUALITIES Ot THE WAXfiil. Its appearance, when fresh, scarcely differs from that of common pump water. It does not sparkle ; few or no air bubbles collect upon the sides of the glass, into Mhich it is pumped ; nor does the slightest turbidness or deposit take place, upon standing. It has no particular smell ; but a strong brackish taste, at once, indicates muriate of soda to be a prevailing ingredient, in its com- position. Its temperature immediately from the well is uniformly from 48 to 50** of Fahrenheit's thermometer ; and the specific gravity to that of distilled water, as 10,138 to 10,000. PRELIMINARY EXPERIMENTS WITH RE-AGENTS, TO DETER- MINE THE MORE SIMPLE PRINCIPLES. 1. The only change that I have perceived it to make, in any of the coloured infusions, or paper stained with them, is, that of a slightly blue or lilac tinge given, after some time, to paper, stained with the infusion of Brazil wood. Bergman says, he found, sea water pro- duce the same effect upon brazil' d paper ; and attributes it, very unaccountably, to carbonate of magnesia; of which only one-eighth of a grain is, by his own analvsl;?, contained in five pints and a half. Kirwan thinks it more natural to ascribe it to selenite ; though in an cx])eri- ''lent purposely made, he found no effect of the kind from a siolutkm of s;elenite, nearly twice as strojig as that of sea p p 2 300 ANALYSIS OF The more simple Principles determined. water. A saturated solution of selenite does, I think, after some time, produce a faint appearance of the kind ; but the true cause of it, both in sea and Leamington water, i, without doubt, owing to the muriate of magnesia, contained in each ; a sohition of which will be found upon trial to cause exactly the same change according to its strength. THE EFFECT PRODUCED BY A DROP OF 2. Nitrate of silver was a wliite curdy precipi- tate, insoluble in acids. 3. Muriate of barytes a white cloudy precipi- tate, insoluble in acids^ 4. Oxalate of ammonia a white cloudy precipi- tate, sparingly soluble in diluted acids, 5. Carbonate of ammonia a white cloudy pre- cipitate, instantly soluble in diluted muriatic acid, with efl'ervescence, G. Ammonia a white flaky precipitate. 7. Lime water a white flaky precipitate, 8. Tincture of galls a pale rose tinge. The same effect, I sometimes thought more clearly produced, by suspending a piece of a gall-nut in the bottle, into which it was pumped ; and, in some trials, there ap})eared scarcely any immediate change. 9. Pkussiate of potash no change. LEAMINGTON WATER. 3oi Nature of the Compound Substances determined. Hence the more simple principles were found to be Muriatic acid (2) Sulphuric acid (3) Lime (4. 5.) Magnesia (6. 7-) and Iron (8.) EXPERIMENTS TO DETERMINE THE NATURE OF THE COMPOUND SUBSTANCES. 10. For this purpose a quart of the water was boiled, strongly, for half an hour, in a glass vessel ; some distilled water being previously added, to supply the loss by evaporation. Towards the end of that time, it shewed a slight degree of turbidness ; and, when cool, a very fine reddish film was obsei*ved upon the glass. This was col- lected after carefully dravA'ing off the Avater ; and was found, to weigh about one grain. It dissolved almost wholly in diluted muriatic acid, with efferv^escence ; and appeared, by the appropriate tests, to consist of the carbonates of lime, magnesia, and iion the first constituting three- fourths, the last not more than one-eighth, of the whole. All the above mentioned re-agents, except the tincture of galls, produced upon the boiled water, exactly the same effects as before ; this caused no immediate change, but on standing for about twelve hours, the whole became of a yellowish green hue. This effect of galls was observed, in every state of the water. I was long unable to account for it ; but, at length, found a simihir appearance take place in all solutions, containing muriate of magnesia. Dr. Rutty remarks that what he calls nitio calcarious waters, give a greenness with galls. By calcari- ous nitre he meant, i believe, sulphate of magnesia. 11. A pint of the water was gradually evaporated to dryness, in a glass vessel ; during the evaporation, 302 ANALYSIS OF Nature of the CoDipound Substances determined. minute crystals separated, and fell to the bottom. Their needle-shaped form, their solubility only in a large pro- portion of water, the precipitates made by the addition of nitrate of barytes, and oxalate of ammonia to their solution, shewed them to be sulphate of lime. 12. The residuum was digested in strong alcohol, for a few hours, and filtered. This process was twice repeated with fresh alcohol ; the first of the filtered liquors, evaporated to dryness, in a temperature not ex- ceeding 140^, afforded an amorphous residuum, which soon deliquesced ; a little distilled water being added to it, it gave with Nitrate of silver a white curdy precipitate. Muriate of ])arytes no change. Ammonia a white flaky precipitate. Lime water a white flaky precipitate. Oxalate of ammonia no change. Hence muriate of' magnesia, was ascertained to be the only deliquescent suit, contained in the water. 1.'). The part insoluble in alcohol, was treated with distilled water, and filtered. A portion of the fil- tered liquor tested with Ammonia gave a white flaky precipitate. Lime water a white flaky j>recipitatc. LEAMINGTON WATER. 303 g' . I .1 . , Propositions of the Compound SuLs(ances determined. Sulphate of magnesia was, therefore, contained in it. 14. A second portion was gradually evaporated, and treated with successive portions of lime water, as long as any flaky sepaiation appeared. When reduced to a small quantity, a little alcohol was added ; being found after filtration, to undergo scarcely any change from oxalate of ammonia, or ammoniaco phosphat of soda, to two separate portions of it, nitrate of lime and tartaric acid were added. The former soon shewed a decompo- sition ; upon the latter no change was produced, nor did nitro-muriate of platina effect it. Hence sulphate of soda was found to be the only alkaline sulphate contained in it. A third portion, dried spontaneously in a watch-glass, exhibited a multitude of minute cubical chrystals ; which, dissolved in water, gave with nitrate of silver, a dense curdy precipitate ; shewing muriate of soda to be the principal ingredient. The compound substances, then appeared to be 7nuriate of soda muriate of magnesia sulphate of soda sulphate of magnesia sulphate of lime and a very small portion of the carbonates of lime, magnesia, and iron. Their proportions were now determined in the following manner : 15. Eight ounces of the water were evaporated to drj^ness in a glass dish, in a temperature not exceed- ing 180^ ; the residium weighed 52 .3 grains. This was <ligested for twelve hours, in three times its weight of alcohol; the fluid part being drawn off, the remainder was treated with fresh alcohol and filtered ; the two alcoholic solutions were then mixed and gently evaporat- 304 ANALYSIS OF Propositions of the Compound Substances determined. ed to dryness in a temperature not exceeding 140^ ; the residium contained a few cubical chrystals, which were easily separated, and weighed about one grain. The remainder weighed 1 .50 grains : the filter when dry was increased in weight about one grain, which being partly muriate of soda, the whole of the muriate of magnesia weighed 2 .10 grains. . l6. To the part not soluble in alcohol, was added half an ounce of distilled water. After standing some time, it was thrown upon a small filter; and half an ounce more of distilled water, in divided portions, added, till nitrate of silver ceased materially to affect it ; the undissolved part dried in the temperature of 180*^ Aveighcd 9 .50 grains. The solution, as I had ascertained in a similar instance, contained about one grain of sulphate of lime, dried in the same temperature ; which makes 10 .50 grains of sulphate of lime in half a pint of the water. This was reduced by farther drying in a red heat to 9 .25 ; the fractional part of which being carbonates the sul- phate of lime was nine grains. The saline solution was now divided into three equal parts. 17. To one was added nitrate of silver, till no further precipitation ensued ; the precipitated muriate of silver, dried in a red heat, weighed 26 .40 grains, which indicate 33 .70 grains of muriate of soda, in half a pint of the water. If to this be added 1 .40 griains, contained in the alcoholic solution, the whole muriate of soda, con- tained in half a pint, will be 35 .10 grains. 18. To a second part was added a little oxalate of ammonia, in order to free it from the small portion of LEAMINGTON WATER. 305 Gaseous Contents of the Water. lime,, it contained. It was then treated with ammoniaca phosphate of soda, till no further jdecomposition took place the precipitate, gently dried, weighed one grain, which indicates . 62 of a grain of sulphate of magnesia, or 1 . 86 grains in the half-pint. 19. To the third part was added sufficient muriate of harytes to combine with all the sulphuric acid in it. The precipitated sulphate of barytes, dried in a red heat, weighed three grains : from this must be deducted that produced from .62 of a grain of sulphate of magnesia, and . 25 of a grain of sulphate of lime. Fifty-two grains of sulphate of magnesia, produce 100 of sulphate of baiytes therefore . 62 indicate 1 . 20. One hundred grains of sulphate of lime, produce 1^5 grains of sulphate of barytes therefore . 25 indicate . 44. One hundred and seventy grains of sulphate of barytes indicate 100 grains of sulphate of soda. Hence 2 . 40 grains of sulphate of soda are con- tained in the half-pint. GASEOUS CONTENTS OF THE WATER. Of these it was manifest, both from the scanty appearance of air bubbles in the water, while fresh and during ebullition, that it contained but a very small pro- portion. The follo\\ ing experiment shews them to be per- fectly insignificant, in a medicinal point of view, though essential to account for, even the very small quantity of carbonates that is held in solution. 306 ANALYSIS OF Substances contained in the Bridge Well Water. 20. A tin vessel, containing exactly six pints, was filled with the water, and to it was connected and care- fnlly luted one end of a small bent copper tube, filled also with the water ; the other end being passed under a small graduated jar of mercury, containing seven and a half cubic inches. It was made to boil, and a strong ebullition Avas kept up, till all the air appeared to be discharged. The jar was then removed ; and, after standing till the temperature of the water it contained was reduced to about 100, the air in it was found to occupy six inches. It was then transferred to a vessel of lime water, which absorbed one and an half inches ; nitrous gas shewed the remainder to contain about half an inch of oxygen, and the last portion extinguished a lighted taper. In one pint of the Bridge IVell PFater, then, til ere exist of GASEOUS CONTENTS. Of a Cubic Inch, Nitrogen .67 Carbonic Acid .25 Oxygen .03 1 . 00 SOLID CONTENTS. Cra'inx. Muriate of Soda - 70.20 Sulphate of Lime * 18 . Sulphate of Soda 4.80 Muriate of Magnesia 4 . 20 Sulplintc of Magnesia 3.72 Carbonates of Linie and Magnesia .44 Carbonate of Iron -06 Total 101 .'12 LEAMINGTON WATER. 307 Substances in the Water of the Center the Road the South Well. The gross residuum, after evaporation, in a tem- perature not exceeding 180**, was 104 .6. The difference may be attributed, partly to a small portion of water still contained in it ; and partly, to slight Idsses unavoidable in the manipulation. I have only further to mention^ for the sake of conformity with other Analysts, that I have, at different times, obtained from a pint of this water, residua varying from 105 to 114 grains ; depending upon different degrees of drying, and upon slight differences, perhaps in the quantity employed. With regard to the other wells, as none of them afforded any principles dif- ferent from the preceding, it will be sufficient to state their specific gravity and contents. SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF Dist illed Water 10,000 Ihe North Well* (Mr. Greatheed's) not examined The Public Well.. (Earl of Aylesford's),... .. 10,107 TheCenter Well (Mrs. Smith's) 10,107 The Road Well (Mr. Wise's) 10,122 The South Well (Mr. Head's) 10,107 The contents of a wine pint were found to be as follows : THE PUBLIC WELL. Muriate of Sodn. 48 .50 Sulphate of Lime 17 . Sulphate of Soda 9. Muriate of Magnesia 4. Sulphate of Magnesia 3. Carbonates a proportion scarcely noticeable 81.30 I liave taken the liberty of suggesting these local appellations histcafl of ilie varying names of tlie Proprietors. Bergman did not hesi'ale to dcpiive a Snint of a similar honour, calling Su Ericas Wdl the Mill Spring, because it rose near the mill of ihe Univeisitjf. a Gi 2 308 ANALYSIS OP Substances contained in the Public Well, THE CENTER WELL. Muriate of ?oda 46. Sulphate of Lime ; 18 . 50 Sulpliatc of Soda 8. Muriate of Magnesia . 5. Sulphate of Magnesia 3. Carbonates of Lime and Magnesia .. .44 Carbonate of Iron a mere trace, about .06 81 . THE ROAD WELL. Muriate of Soda 61 . Sulphate of Lime - 18. Sulphate of Soda 4 . Muriate of Magnesia 6. Sulphate of Magnesia 3 . Carbonates of Lime, Magnesia, and Iron, a mere trace 92 . THE SOUTH WELL. Muriate of Soda ... 52 .76 Sulphate of Lime 18. Muriate of Magnesia 5. Sulphate of Soda 4. Sulphate of Magnesia 3. Carbonates of Lime and Magnesia .44 Carbonate of Iron, a mere trace, about .06 83 . 26 There is one circumstance in the foregoing Analysis, upon which it may be proper to say a few words. All the writers upon mineral waters have agreed that one grain of sul])hate of lime requires 500 grains of distilled water for its solution, a pint therefore (7,310) would not dissolve quite 15 ; yet all these waters contain two or three more after complete exsiccation. Dk. Lambe noticed this apparent anomaly ; and seemed inclined to attribute it to the agency of certain foreign matters, which. LEAMINGTON WATER. 309 Medicinal uses of the Water, his experiments led him to think, existed in the water. I have, however, found it to be owing, as in some other instances, to the associated salts. By an experiment pur- posely made, it appeared that water when nearly satu- rated with muriate of soda, will dissolve between three and four times as much sulphate of lime, as it will in its natural state ; and accordingly the brine springs at Droitwich,* have been lately found to contain SS grains of sulphate of lime in the pint. It would be transgressing the bounds I have set to myself, were I to enlarge upon the medicinal use of these springs ; and it is the less necessary, as most of what might be pertinently said upon the subject, has been anticipated in the observations upon saline waters con- tained in the justly popular work of Dr. Saunders. Suffice it to say, then, that, in the usual dose of a well pint, viz. twelve ounces, more or less, according to the circumstances of age and habit of body, taken at intervals before breakfast, they for the most part make their way quietly through the bowels ; giving, in the first instance, from the prevalence of the muriate of soda, a salutary stimulus to the stomach, productive of improved appetite and digestion, and afterwards cleansing the whole passage by dilution and evacuation; and that internally and exter- nally they may be had recourse to, with well-founded 'ex- pectations of advantage, in various irregularities of the digestive organs, composed under the general term Dyspepsia; in some diseases of the liver and gall ducts, ari- sing from deficient action or obstruction ; in several scro- * Account of the Biine Springs, at Droit xvic'ii, bv Leonard Horner. Tramactioni cf the Geological Socictv, 181 J, 310 ANALYSIS OF Medicinul uses of the Water. fulous, rheumatic, and cutaneous affections ; and in many anomalous complaints, which have been termed cachectic, proceeding from, or connected with morbid action of the abdominal viscera. If the occasional use of the wai'm bath tends so much to the maintenance of health, by merely keeping the external surface of the body clean and perspirable ; how much greater benefit may be expected from the same attention being paid to the alimentary canal : upon the state of which, not only its own secre- tions, but those of the organs connected with it, the future condition of the blood, and the healthy action of every part of the system, so much depend. 'This obvious view of the subject, sufficiently explains the good effect of these and similar waters, which are frequently drank with ad- vantage for months together ; gradually and often rapidly restoring lost appetite, looks, flesh, and strength ; almost the whole of their operation, as I conceive, being to wash away the various crude and foul substances, which either clog the mouths of the secretory and absorbent vessels, or, by their irritating qualities, tend to destroy their natural and healthy actions. The stomach and bowels, as they are first acted upon in the cure, so are they, without doubt, tiie prime agents in the production or maintenance, of most dii^eases ; and it is, therefore^ the preservation of them free from irritation and preternatural congestion, that should form the main indication in every sanative process. Though the ocbreous stain upon the marble baths sufficiently indicates the existence of iron, in these waters -, yet from the extremely small quantity that appears by the analysis to be contained in them, they cannot, 1 think, in any practical view, be considered as chalybeates. They are hardly sensible to the gallic test ; not at all so, in niv LEAMINGTON WATER. 3U Beneficial Effects of Warm Bathing. experiments, to the prussie ; nor (what I should think ne- cessary for such an effect) do they evince to the taste, the slightest chalybeate impregnation. Well-informed prac- titioners, however, will not value them the less, on this account. Whatever advantage may attend a ferruginous impression upon the stomach and bowels, during the action of a saline water; or however requisite it may be thought, in particular instances of a weak and relaxed frame; it is certain that nature has very rarely provided them, with such an assistant the most celebrated and efficient cold purgative waters, both in this and foreign countries, being of the simple saline class, and totally destitute of all metallic ingredient. The Epsom, the Harrowgate, the German waters of Sedlitz and Seydschutz, those of Dublin, so much extolled by Dr. Rutty, together with the many useful, thou2:h less active ones, in the neighbourhood of London; do not any one of them contain a particle of iron. It is clear, therefore, that the great and acknow- ledged benefit, which, during a long course of years, has resulted from their use, cannot have in any degree, de- pended upon the influence of this metal. The profound maxim of Hippocrates, will sufficiently account for it. **' If fit matters are evacuated, the evacuation will be bene- '' ficial and w^ell supported ; if unfit, the contrary Avill " happen." The acknowledged fact that inanimate bodies are expanded by heat and contracted by cold ; together with the doctrine of cutaneous absorption, which, till lately, prevailed universally, as a medical theory, gave rise to many erroneous notions, scarcely yet exploded, respecting the operation of the warm bath. The mechanical physi- cians, during the greater part of the last century, misap- ,12 ANALYSIS OF Beneficial Effects of Warm Bathing. plying the fact above mentioned to the phenomena of the living body, decried it as a debilitating power, relax- ing the solids, and enervating the whole system ; while the cold bath was in an equal degree extolled, for its bracing and invigorating effects. The humoral patholo- gists, too, by supposing the water to be absorbed into the body, drew many fanciful consequences, respecting its operation upon the blood and humours. An improved physiology has concurred, with multiplied experience, to overturn these opinions. The anodyne and antispasmodic virtues of warm water, its power of allaying internal ini- tation and of removing the watchfulness, which is often occasioned by it, had been long experienced and taken advantage of by physicians, in the treatment of some of the most painful and distressing diseases ; and Dr. Mar- card's admirable experiments, contrived to demonstrate its direct effects upon the body,, have, in the most satisfac- toiy manner, explained its true operation. They were made with the aid of a thermometer and stop-watch ; and, apparently, with great accuracy. The result was, that in fourteen out of fifteen instances, the frequency of the pulse was, upon the average, reduced seventeen beats, in the course of from half an hour to an hour, in a warm bath, of the temperature of between 85 and 96 of Fah- renheit's thermometer; and he, therefore, thought himself justified in concluding, that nature does, in this instance, obsene a general law, though with some exceptions, and considerable modifications. In addition to, and as tending to confirm, his valual^le experiments upon tliis point, I have tlionght it worth while shortly to detail the follow- ing ; which was made at Leanihigton in the year 1808, under circumstances which seemed to preclude the possi- bility of error. LEAMINGTON WATER. 313 Experiments to determine the effects of Warm Bathinii. The subject of it was a healthy man thiitv-seven years of age. Temperature of the Bath on immersion 86 Temperature raised sud- denly to 95" Temperature increased, uniutentionailvf to 112 Temperature reduced to 105 Temperature .... 96' Temperature 93 Temperature 90 Pulse before immersion (jQ In five minutes after im- mersion, Pulse 58 Pulse continued 58 Felt uncomfortably hot. Face flushed, and Pulse 98 Pulse continued ........ 93 Pulse .* 88 Pulse 76 Pulse 70 By this experiment, then, which agrees completely with those of Dr. Marcard, it appears clearly that a warm bath, under blood heat, possesses, a sedative, and, above it, a stimulant power, over the animal functions. The former, he refers to the " agreeable* sensation, which every one, so situated, experiences ; and to the calm and tranquil state in which the whole surface of the body is placed, consisting, nearly of a tissue of nerves, which are connected with all the other nerves of the system. If these latter have the property of being sensible to impressions made upon the former, we shall no longer be surprised at the important effects which take place, when so large a portion of them is agreeably affected. We know not how, and why, the bath produces such a sensation ; but we know, that heat, to a certain extent, is pleasant to the nerves, and that the pleasure is increased when water is the vehicle of it. The bath, then, by soothing and agreeably affecting the organs of sense, may tend to lessen the effect of other impressions, and together with it, the * Marcard ssr la nature et I'usage de bains. R R 314 ANALYSIS OF Comparative Account of Cheltenham Water, irritability of the muscles, not directly, but through the medium of the nerv'^es ; and, in this manner, it may ope- rate to the mitigation of pain, to the quieting of preter- natural motions, spasms, and convulsions; and even to the diminution of the irritability of the heart, and the other organs ; and, thus, by tranquilizing the whole system, may gradually induce sleep, the maximum of repose of the living body." A SHORT Comparative Account of the Cheltenham Water. While engaged in the above Analysis, enqui- ries were often made by my patients, respecting tlie nature of the saline water of Cheltenham ; which had been so benehcially employed, for near half a century ; but of which the real composition seemed not yet to have been sufficiently investigated. As it may gratify some of your readers to see a comparative statement of their con- tents, I venture to submit the following, though well aware that it differs materially from those, which have hitherto been laid before the public, That of Dr. Fothergill, being founded upon an Analysis made so far back as 178O, while the art was still in its infancy in this country, cannot, as, indeed, it docs not, pretend to any thing like chemical accuracy the sulphates of soda and magnesia, which Avere thouglit to be the two princi])ul salts, not being separated ; the muriate of soda assigned, by the vague method of chrys- tallization ; and the oxyd of iron, still more vaguely, by LEAMINGTON WATER. 3i5 L ' ' " I l^^M^^ ^ M Cheltenham Water not a Chalybeate. conjecture. From that of Mr. Accum, made at a much later period, my results differ still more widely. It is un- necessary to justify them here, by another detailed Analy- sis, and I shall, therefore, content myself with saying, that I believe them to be nearly accurate. Should their sim- plicity operate to create doubts as to their truth ; let it be remembered, that the more closely the works of nature have been investigated, the more simple she has gene- rally been found; and that as small means, properly ap- plied, are often sufficient to produce great eftects ; so improved health may result from the continued use of a mineral water of a sufficiently active, though, by no means, of a complex nature. I cannot conclude without one or two observa- tions, respecting the supposed chalybeate quality of these springs ; to which it appears to me, that, in a practical view, they are no more entitled than those of Leamhtg- ton ; as they did not, any of them, in their natural state, evince this character, with the appropriate tests ; and only shewed a mere vestige of iron, in the insoluble residium, treated with nitric acid, too inconsiderable to be worth notice. Such quantities as five and seven grains of car- bonate of iron in the gallon, as have been assigned to them, when it is at the same time truly stated, that they undergo no change, on exposure to the atmosphere, is an inconsistency which needs only to be mentioned. A peculiarity of some importance, perhaps, in a medicinal view, disthiguishes the two wells of Mr. Thomp- son, situated in Montpelier ground they both gave to Tincture of cabbage a green hue. R R 2 il6 ANALYSIS OF Contents of the Water of the Old Well the Orchard Well. Brazil paper a bluish ditto. Turmeric paper a light brown. These colours became deeper in proportion as the w ater became stronger by evaporation, shewing a slight alkaline impregnation. To this, must be ascribed, the turbidness and white sediment, which, I was informed, take place, on preparing the warm salt baths from a mixture of the brine, remaining after the chrystallization of the salts, with common water. ^The sulphate of lime, contained in the latter, is decomposed by the carbonate of soda. -THE OLD WELL. Specific Gravity 10,084 CONTENTS IN A PINT. Grain*. Sulphate of Soda 23 Muriate of Soda 17 Sulphate of Magnesia 5 Muriate of Magnesia 1 \ Sulphate of Lime > 3| Earthy Carbonates, with a very small proportion of iron 8 53 THE ORCHARD WELL. Specific Gravity > . 10,093 CONTENTS IN A PINT. Grains, Sulphate of Soda S8 Muriate of Soda 26 Sulphate of Magnesia S \ Muriate of Magnesia 1 \ Carbonates of Lime, Magnesia, and Iron, principally ) the first, with just a vestige of the last > 02 LEAMINGTON WATER. 317 Contents of the Water of Thompson s Wells. The Chalybeate strong Saline Well of Mr. Thompson, Specific Gravity 10,095 CONTENTS IN A PINT. Graim. Muriate of Soda 34 Sulphate of Soda 28 Carbonate of Soda, nearly .. 1 Carbonates of Lime, Magnesia, and Iron, principally j the first, a mere trace of the last > 65 The Carbonated strong Saline JVell of Mr. Thompson, Specific Gravity 10,088 CONTENTS IN A PINT. Grains, Muriate of Soda 33 Sulphate of Soda 26 Carbonate of Soda nearly 1 Carbonates of Lime, Magnesia, and Iron, with a mere j trace of the last S 62 MR. SMITH*S WELL. Specific Gravity 10,123 This as appears from the specific gravity, is the strongest of all and its superior strength arises from the larger proportion of muriate of soda in its composition. The exact quantity of its several ingredients, I had no opportunity of ascertaining. The above examination was made, in the year 1810, upon the waters, which were then in use. I un- derstand, that several new wells have been since opened 318 ANALYSIS, &c. New Wells of Cheltenham. by Mr. Thompson, some of which possess qualities materially different from the above. As I have had no opportunity of Ja,nalysing them, the present account can only apply to the wells then existing. I Remain, Dear Sir, Very unfeignedly Your's, STEPHEN WINTHROP. ^*Ejr CjrEyoisH Street, Jul^ 2'i. 1814. -^^ SITE OF LEAMINGTON SPA. 319 Face of the surround'nig Country. CHAP. XXX. ^ite of Leamington ^;pa face of the surrounding Country-^Situation of the Old Town of the New Town Nature of the Soil Salubrity of the AirAbundant supplies of the necessaries and conveniences of Life Advantages of the vicinity of Leamington to Warwick Excellence of the Roads. XN his excellent work on the " Medical Powers of Mineral Waters," Dr. Saunders considers the site of a medicinal spring as a collateral branch of enquiry of great importance. Under that term, which we have borrowed for the title of the present chapter, he includes all that relates to the soil, the general state of the atmosphere, the purity of the air, and face of the countiy around the spot, that is enriched with this natural treasure. " These circumstances," he remarks, " are of no small consequence to the invalid ; since the advantages of air, exercise, and agreeable prospects, in most cases, admirably coincide with the general curative effect of the spring itself." * With respect to site, then, in this extended sense of the word, it is not too much to say, that Leamington \\ill bear comparison M'ith almost any of the admired and favored Watering Places in the kingdom not excepting, * Saunders' Treatise on Mineral Waters, 2d Ed, p. 92. 320 SITE OF Situation of the Old Town of the New Toxvn. certainly, it's great rival, the celebrated springs of Glou- cestershire ; above which, indeed, in some important res- pects, it may even claim a preference. Our object, in the present chapter, is to give some account of the advantages of situation, which Leamington possesses ; and this will be followed, in a succeeding chapter, by an account of the various accommodations, already provided for the suitable reception, and agreeable entertainment^ of it's visitors. Leamington is situated towards the eastern extre- mity of a spacious amphitheatre, formed by a circuit of gently rising hills, of which fVarwick is nearly the central point ; extending about 14 or 15 miles in circumference. Though the country, immediately around it, presents none of the bolder or grander features of nature, yet it is high- ly fertile and well cultivated ; diversified by pleasing inequalities of ground ; delightfully watered by the wind- ings of its own river, the Learn, and its neighbouring river, the Avon; intersected with some of the finest hedges ; and richly adorned with all the usual trees of the forest, many of which are of most majestic forms, and most luxuriant growth. Of these, some are seen thickly scattered alonsr the hedcre roAvs ; others formed into small groupes ; and others uniting and spreading into the noble and extensive groves and woods, with which this part of the country abounds, and of which several are, in the immediate vicinity of Leamington. The Old Toicn is situated, somewhat low, on the south banks of the river ; yet, being considerably above its level, it is usually diy and clean ; whilst the New Town finely rises, on an easy and beautiful slope, at a j^mall distance, on the opposite bank. The soil is chiefly LEAMINGTON SPA. 321 Abundant Supply of the Necessaries and Conveniences of Life, a rich sandy loam, with a great intermixture of gravel ; andj in almost every part of the village, as well as round it, at some depth below the surface, a bed of solid rock is usually found. The air has ever been considered as pure and salubrious ; the fresh water springs are clear and good ; epidemic disorders occur as seldom, and in- stances of longevity are found as often, here, as at any of the most healthful places in the kingdom. Leamington is well supplied with all the neces- saries and many of the luxuries of life, partly by means of its own shops, which are daily increasing, and its weekly market, lately established ; and still more com- pletely, by means of the numerous shops, and the large and well-attended markets, of JVarwich. The produce of the farm-yard and the poultry-yard, are obtained, of excellent quality, in great abundance. Fish is regularly procured, by the daily coaches, from London. Extensive garden grounds, formed immediately round it, as well as many others in the neighbourhood, ensure constant supplies of fresh vegetables ; whilst hot-houses, green- houses, and fruit-walls, offer their more expensive delica- cies for the table. Coals are brought, by means of the Canal, at a moderate price, chiefly from the pits near Birmingham, Leamington, is two miles distant from Warwick : and its vicinitv to this handsome and flourishing town must be distinctly noticed, as one amongst the greatest of its numerous recommendations. For, besides the supply of all articles of necessity or utility, which it ensures at reasonable prices, thus checking or preventing the enor- mous impositions, too common at Watering Places ; it s s 322 SITE OF Advantages of the vicinity of Leamington to Warwick. affords an ag:reeable excursion^ for the frequent amuse- ment, either of a morning or evening. Tliere are two roads to Warwick; and a more delightful ride or walk, than either of these offers, can scarcely be desired. Though this town has little of the stir and bustle of a large manufacturing or trading place ; yet there is gene- rally enough to render a walk through it sufficiently interesting ; and, especially, in the busy scenes of the weekly markets, or the monthly fairs in the more crowd- ed streets, which mark the time of the Assizes, and the Quarter Sessions, and in the proceedings of the Courts of Judicature, on those great occasions in the gay amuse- ments of the Races, of which there are two annually or in the more refined entertainments of Philosophical Lectures, which are here occasionally delivered the visi- tors of J^eamingtorif will often find sources of pleasing engagement. The many objects of rational and dignified curiosity, which the town itself presents, in its noble castle, its stately church, its venerable choir, its beau- tiful chapel, and its numerous and handsome public edifices, have already been minutely described, in the former part of this work. The great boast of Warwichshire has long been, its roads ; which are, by the confession of all, some of the best in the kingdom ; and those, in the neighbourhood of Leamington, are peculiarly excellent. Formed of well-compacted gravel, they are smooth almost as walks ; ruts are nearly unknown ; and little moisture is retained, even after the dampest seasons, and the hardest rains. But whilst, in his daily excursions, the valetudinarian is thus secured from all the inconveniences of rough or uneasy motion, and from the deleterious effects of hu- LEAMINGTON SPA. 323 Excellence of the Roads. midity ; he is, at the same time, little exposed, even in the midst of summer, to the painful annoyance of rising and stifling dust. In no direction, except in one, and that only for a few hundred yards, is he in danger of encountering the serious evil of sandy roads rthat pest of Cheltenham ! to avoid which, its visitors are so often reduced to the dull monotony of driving up and down its main street. Even the more private roads about Leam- ington are many of them so wide and so good, at least in summer time, as to admit of passing with ease in carriages ; and thus add considerably to the number and variety of the rides, with which the surrounding country abounds. The general character of IVarwickshire is that of a fiat countiy ; which, of course, precludes the possi- bility of many very extended prospects ; yet, at the same time, it renders the pleasures of a drive more easy and safe ; and there are views to be obtained from Hatton Hill, from several points in the Stratford Road, and in that to Halford Bridge not to mention Edge Hills, as being too distant which relieve this part of the country, from the reproach of offering no prospects, of any considerable extent. Let, in short, the visitors of Leamington, who seek either the health or the amusement which rural excursions afford, turn in whatever direction they please ; they will find most of those circumstances, which con- tribute to render a morning or an evening ride delightful a firm and even road a rich and beautiful country, gently varied, well watered, and well wooded enlivened by numerous flocks and herds, of the finest breeds em- s s 2 324 SITE OF, &c. Vlcusantness of the surrounding Country, *" bellished with every kind of rural habitation, from the proud villa and the comfortable farm-house, to the neat and lowly cot interspersed with a considerable number of villages, some lying pleasingly sequestered, and others occupying situations, more open and cheerful. ^Thus to invalids is every inducement afforded to take the air and exercise, in all cases, so conducive to health ; and, in thi case, so necessary to aid the salutary effects of the waters. Distinct notices of some of the principal Rides and Walks, round Leaynwgtony will be found in a sub- sequent part of this work. PRESENT STATE, &c. 325 State of the Old Town. CHAP. XXXI. ^tt^tnt dState of Eeamingtom High-Street Olorenthaw's Reading Room Royal Hotel Barford Build- ings Clemens'-Street, Bissetfs Picture Gallery Upper Clemens- Street Ranelagh Gardens Church-Street Bowling Green Inn Market-Place Post-Office Satchzoell-Place Church Monuments Gloucester-Street Bissetfs Museum Bath-Street Bath Hottl' Theatre Bridge New Pump Room the Mall Priory Gardens Union-Street Bedford Hotel Upper Union-Street Rackstrow's Libi-ary Cross-Street Upper Cross-Street Assembly Rooms Frost-Street. Jr ROPOSING, in the present Chapter, to give some account of the various accommodations, provided, with such astonishing rapidity and such unsparing expense, for the reception and entertainment of its numerous visitors vre shall attempt a slight sketch of Leamington, as it now appears, taken in the course of a walk through it beginning with the Old Town. As most of the cottages, which once composed tne whole of this small and humble village, still remain, it is easy to compare together its former and its present state ; and to perceive, in every part, a change so great, as almost to entitle even tiie Old Town to the appellation of I^cw. Perhaps, in the wliole compass of topographical records, no instance can be found of a village rising. 326 PRESENT STATE ' ' ' " 4 High-Stviet Reading Rooms Royal Hotel. *- ' ^=^ within a shorter space of time, from obscurity to celebrity^ and from a scanty collection of straw-covered dwellings to one of the most distinguished and fashionable Water^ ing Places in the kingdom. Entering the village from the JVarwich Road^ on the left is the seat of Matthew Wise, Esa. ; sur- Tonnded by its beautiful plantations, forming a bold semicircular sweep and on the right appears the first of the new erections, Albion House, a singular structure, built in a sort of mock Gothic style, rather fanciful than tasteful but affording within, three comfortable dwell- ings. Behind this, at some distance, towards the Napton Canal, arc several clusters of smaller houses ; some of them offering neat and cheerful lodgings. Passing a good bow-windowed house, lately converted into a board- ing-house, and the gates of an extensive Mews Olo- RENSHAw's shop ncxt appears, still on the right, abun- dantly furnished with jewellery and stationery ; to which a very commodious Reading Room is attached, well provided with diurnal and monthly publications ; together with a Circulating Library, carefully adapted to the usual taste of watering places, in a tolerable collection of voyages, travels, and above all novels. On one side, this shop, is a large and good ; on the other side, a small and comfortable house. Behind it, is the South If^ell ; and, before it, the Road Well. Proceeding onwards at the corner of Clemens'^ Street, is a spacious shop, with a lofty and handsome front, used as a grocer's ; and next to it, is Copps' Roi/al Hotel and Boarding House an extensive range with no uniformity, indeed, in its exterior appearance but OF LEAMINGTON. ^f !....-'' ' . I Clemcns^-Slreet- BissetCs Picture Gallery. fitted up, within, in a style of elegance, equal to almost any in the kingdom. The general dining-room and tho public drawing-room are spacious and handsome. There are several smaller rooms, for private parties ; and the number of chambers exceeds sixty. Beyond this larga establishment, are Barjord Buildings a row of houses very small, but very snug ; and, further on, towards the extremity of the village in this direction, interspersed amongst the old cottages, are several new and good houses. The whole of this part has lately assumed th name of High-Street, At right angles with this street is another entirely new wide and well-formed called Clemens^- Street. Of this, one side is occupied by a range of good houses, furnished with neat balconies ; behind which are a considerable number of smaller houses. On the opposite side, are several good shops ; an intended hotel, as yet unoccupied ; Probett's Mews capable of receiving fifty horses, and half as many carriages ; and a range of houses, uniformly built, in a good style, dis- tinguished by the name of Clemejis' -Place. In Clemens' -Street, is Bissett's Picture Gallery^ in which are a considerable number of paintings, some of them good, particularly a large picture, representing " The Baptism of Henry Fill,'' by Mather Browne, Esq.. " Gideons Sacrifice,'' by Sir J. Barry. " Per- seus and Andromeda," by Tintoretto. '' Flowers," by Baptiste. " Trajan's Pillar at Rome'' by Lairesse. - This Gallery is also used as a Reading Room ; and is well furnished with the daily papers, the monthly publications, and many of the more popular productioijs of thv? day. 328 PRESENT STATE Upper Clemens' -Street Banelatih Gardens Alatktt Flace. Clemens'-Street is terminated at its upper or southern extremity by a Bridge^ thrown across the Nap ton Canal leading to an intended new street, to be called Upper Clemens'-Street, On the left of this at a small distance are extensive flower and fniit gardens, occupying a space of nearly ten acres but not laid out at present with much taste in which are large hot- houses and green-houses and for which a botanical col- lection is said to be preparing. If these, rather on the credit of what they promise hereafter, than on what they actually appear, must rest their claim to the high-sound- ing name of Ranelagh Gardens, which they have lately assumed ; it must, however, be allowed they have already opened a source of amusement, to the visitants of Learn- ington, at once, pleasing, rational and healthful. On the right of the Bridge is the occasional residence, in the cottage style, of William Moody, of Bean- desert, Esq. ; and still further to the right, appears the busy scene of a Navigation Wharf, chiefly filled with coal. Opposite the loAver or northern extremity of Cle- mens^-Street to the left is Bath-Street and to the right Church-Street, In this latter, Leamington, as it was, may be seen, perhaps, more than in any other part. At the left corner stands the Bowling Green Inn small but comfortable. Here is the old Assembly Room, whose scanty dimensions and humble appearance, com- pared with the extent and splendour of the New Rooms, strikingly shew the progressive improvement of the place. On an open space, near this Inn, the newly- established Market is held, every Wednesday, during the season. OF LEAMINGTON. 329 Church-Street Satchwell-Place The Church. In the central part of Church Street, are several good houses, recently finished, forming a strong con- trast with the thatched roofs, and mud walls, amid which, they rear their modern and shewy fronts. At the upper extremity of this street to the right ^is the way to the Post-Office ; near which, rurally situated, is a range of good houses, called Satchwell-Place, terminated by Gor" don House, once honoured by the residence of some of that noble family ; and, to the left a short path, through the Church-yard, leads to Bath-Street, the Public IVell, and the New Town, The Church is ancient, and presents all the hum- ble exterior of a country church, with plastered walls, and low tiled roof. It is, however, neatly fitted up within. One of the windows is venerable for its antiquity ; and affords no mean specimen of the fine pointed style, which prevailed in the fourteenth and following century. At the west end, is a good old square tower, furnished with four bells. Against this, was once a clock. It may well be supposed that this small church, inadequate for the accommodation even of the parishioners, must be deplorably insufficient for that of the numerous visitors, resorting to Leamington : and a plan has been proposed, for enlarging or rebuilding it. May zeal and money, equal to its accomplishment, be speedily found ! The monuments within this Church are not nu- merous, nor, with one or two exceptions, remarkable. A flat stone, in the middle aisle, with a short inscription, in English, shews where lie deposited, the remains of the Rev. Dr. Greenwood, formerly vicar of St. Mary's and T T 530 PRESENT STATE lomb of the Rev. Dr. Greenwood. St. Nicholas', in Warwick, who was an author of some considerable note in his day.* In the Chancel, is the family vault of Matthew Wise, Esq. of Leamington; and that of the Rev. Edward Willes, whose ancestors were seated so long ago as the reign of Henry VIII. at Newhold Comyn, in the same parish. || Of this latter family there is one monument, which is well entitled to distinct notice. It is a marble tablet, with a Latin inscription,^ dedicated to the memory of the Right Hon. Edward Willes, father of the present possessor of Newhold, who greatly distinguished himself in the study and practice of the law ; and who rose, by his merits, with little assistance from the patronage of the great, to the higher honors of the bar. He was, for many years, as the inscription informs, Recorder of Coventry ^ and Attorney-General for the Duchy of Lancastet^. He was afterwards advanced to the honorable post of King's Serjeant-at-Laiv ; and Avas, finally, raised, in 1757? to the dignity of Chief Baron of the Court of Excliequer, and one of his Majesty's Privy Council, in Ireland. Though he owed his elevation principally to the high reputation he had himself acquired for profound and extensive know- ledge in his profession, and for great sagacity, activity, and integrity in the discharge of its duties ; yet he always acknowledged much obligation to the favourable opinion, and zealous support of his relative, his friend, and his only patron, the Right Hon. John Willes, who was for many years, Chief Justice in the Court of Common Pleas, in J^ngland. It is pleasing to add, that the eminence of his See some account of him, page l32, || Dugdale. ^ Sec Appendix, OF LEAMINGTON. 331 Monument of t lie Right Honourable Edward WiUes. character, as a Judge, was accompanied by all the less dazzling, but not less important qualities, which adorn pri- vate life. Few surpassed him, as a husband and a father^ in fervor of conjugal and parental affection ; or^ as a man and a christian, in benevolence of disposition, and in kind- ness and suavity of manners. By an attention, too close and too ardent, to the duties of his high station, his health was irreparably injured, and the foundation laid of a disorder, under which he languished for some time ; and which obliged him to retire^ in 1/66, to his native country, and the seat of his ancestors, amidst the delightful shades of Newhold Comyn. In this rural retreat, he had, how- ever, the satisfaction to find^ that his public services, though discontinued, were not forgotten ; and the soothing consolation to receive, amidst the pains of a lingering distemper, the well-merited testimony of royal munificence and gratitude, in the grant of a liberal pension which was settled upon him for life but which he did not long live to enjoy. Exhausted by gradual decay^ the effect of his incurable disorder, at length, he calmly resigned his mortal existence to Him, who gave it, June 24, 17^8, in the 66th year of his age. In the Church-yard, are some veiy old tomb-stones ' frail memorials," treacherous to their trust, on which are no longer visible " the names," " the years," " the uncouth rhymes," " the shapeless sculpture," or with whatever else they may have once been charged. One tomb tvithout, as well as two elegant marble tablets within the Church, seems to forebode that, as the scene of the living world changes round it, this once '* sequestered spot,'* will no longer be the receptacle only of the " unhonoured dead." But in the midst of other humbler mpnuments, T T 2 333 PRESENT STATE monuments in the C/iurch Yard. scattered all about, appears one proudly conspicuous ! It is a handsome tomb of the altar kind, inclosed with iron palisades ; on which is a long inscription to the memory of Benjamin Satchwell who was, by trade, a shoemaker ; by profession, the village rhymer ; and, by a distinction, certainly noble, the founder of the Leamington Spa Charity,* This inscription, in verse, from the pen of a well-known writer, lately deceased, Mr. Pratt, whose name by no common practice is affixed, tells, not very poetically, and rather too pompously, his merits which were, however, for one in his low station, real and considerable. The just praises of humble worth are too often reluctantly given, or injuriously withheld ; but, when too much is asked, harm is done, because that which is fairly due is then less willingly paid. Near this aspiring tomb,|| is another, less ostentatious, which points, where rest in peace, the remains of another village worthy whose well-established claims to public grati- tude, will not be less cheerfully admitted, because more modestly asserted. He was the founder of the first baths of Leamington Spa ; and, as such, his name is already recorded, with due honour, in these pages.J This excellenl Chariij proTidcs free of expense, (lie advantage of balliing for pour invalids, on appljring ^vi(h proper rcconiniendalions. It is strange that the circuru- ttance, whicli priacipally marked nith lionourable distinction the subject of this funeral pnnrgyric, 5liould be passed entirelj unnoticed. It is, also, an objection that though the inscription alludes, it seems, to the poetical propeniilies of bone<t SAicnwELt, ^et it requires the help of a no(e to make out the allosion especially as Ihat note, though it appears in the printed copy, could not with propriety be placed on the tnnib. U What must be said to that line of the inscription, which calls iliis " the unastum- Sng tomb," of S*tchvei.i ? If this very handsome monument, wi.li its long inscription from the pen of a writer ul ro little public note, must, indeed, be coiiider;d as humble even for a simple mechanic what sepulchral grandeur or wiiat marbled verse can hope (a reach the dignity of the higher order of merit, or the more splendid gradaiioni of rank * t Ste p.981 and 296. OF LEAMINGTON. 333 Gloucester-Street Bisaett's Museum The Theatre. At right angles with Church- Street, is another entirely new, called Gloucester-Street, in which are several good modern houses. Bissett's Museum, in this street, well merits distinct notice. It contains a con- siderable variety of specimens of birds, beasts, fishes, and insects, British and Foreign-, and a great number of curious articles of the arms, the dress, the ornaments, and the musical instruments of ancient times, and of foreign, and particularly barbarous countries. Certainly, ian hour of leisure, at Leamington, can scarcely find a more rational and pleasing gratification, than that, which the inspection of this small but amusing collection of the wonders of nature and art will afford. Parallel to Church-Street, and connected with it by Gloucester- Street, is Bath- St reel the eastern side of which is occupied by a range of new houses, with good shops terminated by the Theatre lately erected of which the exterior presents a handsome front, formed of Roman cement, finished in a pleasing style of simple elegance ; and of which the interior is neatly and com- modiously fitted up. Here the amusements of the drama are oifered, much in the manner of most of our countiy Theatres, three times every week, during the season. Beyond the Theatre, on the same side, is the Puhlic Well; and, nearly opposite, is the Center fVell ; immediately adjoining which is the Bath Hotel. This, originally a small Inn, has been so often enlarged, and so greatly improved, as to form a complete and com- modious house ; not unworthy the higher name it has lately assumed, instead of its former bumble designation 334 PRESENT STATE huih Ho'.el liew Bridge- -Fut/ip Iloom. of the New Inn. The public dining rootn is large and handsome ; and the number of chambers is nearly thirty. Proceeding from the Bath Hotel towards the Bridge on the left, are several pleasant cottages and smaller houses; and beyond them is the Bridge fVell; near which are two or three good modern houses. One of these was, in 1810, dignified by the residence of their Graces, the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, who have twice honoured this Spa with their presence. Passing over the new stdne Bridge of three arches well built, but ill placed the new Pump Room appears to view presenting a noble front, with its beau- tiful colonnade formings as before remarked, one of the most complete and magnificent structures of the kind in the kingdom. Its situation, however, is too near the road to admit of any good passing view; as there is no point, from which the whole extent can, at once, be seen. But, from the fields, at a small distance to the right, it appears strikingly grand, and finely shaded by the rich and variegated woods, that surround it.* The fonn of its roof, which is in the cottage style, low, heavy, and admitting no relief, is indeed, considered by some, as not happily chosen ; and the in- troduction of a ponderous square pillar, between two round ones, in the colonnade, is still less admired by others. Such intermixture is surely not pleasing to the eye ; and if the fine effect of duplicated columns depends at all upon unhroJcen continuity, throughout the whole an'angement, that advantage of course is lost and what * Tliit view is given in one of the cngravipgs wiucb cmbelliiL the present work. OF LEAMINGTON. 335 The Mall the Piiory Gardens JVew Town. is gained is not very apparent. But even these alleged faults find, in some, advocates, if not admirers and, npon the whole, it is, by all, acknowledged that a nobler piece of architecture, both in design and execution, is not to be seen, in this or any other country. From the new Pump Room ^passing onwards to the left, are seen the large and beautiful woods of New- bold Comyn, the seat of the Rev. Edward Willes and to the right, stretching in a long line, is the Mall, planted on each side with trees, but not yet completely formed, Near this, are the grounds, recently laid out, of the Priory Gardens, which occupy a large space ; and, immediately before, bursting on the astonished view, appear the numerous, extensive and handsome buildings of the New Town. And here advancing forwards the singular vicissitude of human things is seen in striking view ! Casting the eye about from one animated point to another who Avould suppose what, only a iew years ago, was this w^hole surrounding tract ? All, then, was the silent and the solitaiy field ; the grass covered, or the corn waved over it ; the cattle and the sheep, unmolested, fed on its surface, or reposed beneath its shade. Not a trace of human habitation was seen ; nor sound of human voice, except the song of the rustic labourer, was heard. But now, how changed the scene ! The busy hum of men succeeds to the low of the kine ; and where, so late, the plough cut its furrowed way, or the sweeping scythe laid its waving treasure low the walls of human habita- tions ascend ! an extensive and beautiful town appears ! a street is formed, and others are forming, which might 336 PRESENT STATE General Appearance of the New Toum Union-Street. almost dare comparison with some of the fine streets, at the west end of the metropolis and public edifices uprear their stately fronts, which might even boldly challenge competition with the most magnificent of the kind, that have hitherto been erected in our own, or any other country ! Thus proudly rises New Leamington, in its very birth! What will it, then, be, in its maturity? Who can say ? or venture to foretell the high pre-emi- nence, it may hereafter attain, among the most crowded places of fashionable resort? But be distant, perhaps, flattering anticipation forborn ! and the soberer task attempted^ of tracing what already appears of this infant town leaving, to the future historian, to describe its progressive advances towards final completion. Entering the New Town Union Street first appears uniformly built in one long strait line. The houses are lofty and handsome ; furnished with light iron balconies ; and finished in the usual style of modern elegance. The whole appearance, indeed, as an ingenious observer once remarked, is exactly that of one of the modem streets of London^ removed, as if by invisible agency, and placed down amid the fields of Leamington. To every house, a garden is attached; and, though the plan of the interior seems not to have been well laid, at first, yet subsequent alterations and additions have ren- dered most of them commodious dwellings. A fine broad pavement, before this whole range, extending from one extremity to the other in a length of about four hundred yards, forms a noble and spacious promenade ; and striking is the scene, which here, the assembled rank and fashion of Leamington^ moving in sj)lendid crowds, especially in the height of the season, afford ! OF LEAMINGTON. 337 Bedford Hotel King's Mews Cross-Street. Towards the center of Union-Street, is the Bed- ford Hotel ; of which the exterior presents a uniform and handsome front, and the interior is commodiously and elegantly fitted up. The public dining room and drawing room are of ample size, and good proportions. There are numerous rooms for the use of private parties ; and it is a particular object of this great establishment, to provide for the accommodation of those, who prefer the quiet and sober enjoyment of a family party, to the brilliancy and the bustle of a large assembly. The num- ber of chambers is about fifty. At a small distance, opposite this Hotel, are the extensive and well-arranged buildings of King's Mews, capable of receiving nearly fifty carriages, and more than a hundred horses. Above Union-Street, is Upper Union-Street^ in which are several good, and some handsome houses : and at right angles with it, is another only in part formed called Cross-Street. In this a considerable number of houses are already built, and more are building most of them houses of the second and third rank. In Upper Cross-Street, are the Assembly Rooms one of the finest structures of modern times in which pure and elegant taste has exerted and displayed its happiest efforts. The simple grandeur of its exterior appearance, the conveniency and magnificence of its interior arrangements, and the splendour and costliness of all its attending decorations, are certainly unequalled in any similar erection, throughout the kingdom. In size, indeed, the Assembly Rooms of Leamington must yield, in a small degree, to those of Bath and Chel- tenham ; but, in all other respects, the latter are greatly surj)assed by the former. u V 338 PRESENT STATE Asseiiihty Rooms Exterior Appearance. I asssass ii The spacious front of this fine edifice is built of native stone, after a design truly admirable, and worthy the jmpil of a Wyatt ; into which not the smallest need- less or meretricious ornament is admitted ; but all is chastely beautiful and simply elegant. In the central part is a range of seven windows, each supported by pilasters of the light Ionic order ; and the whole sur- mounted by an entablature, perfectly plain and una- dorned. Two handsome wings, slightly projecting from the main building, give relief to it; and furnish those smaller apartments, which are the usual or necessary appendages to the large Assembly Room. Into the interior there are two entrances, one on the eastern side, from Union-Street, through a small porch supported by four Ionic columns ; the other and the principal entrance is, in the right wing, from Upper Cross-Street, which admits, through large folding doors, into the Hall. The Hall is of good size. Opposite the door is the Rejector^/. To the right is the first Billiard Rooin ; which is sufficiently spacious, and well fitted up. The massive mahogany table, made by Fernyhough, of Lon- don, is valued at a hundred guineas. To the left, a flight of stairs conduct to the second Billiard Room, which, though not quite so spacious, is etjually commodious as the first. On the left side, also, are the folding doors, which open into the large, lofty, finely ])roj)ortioned, and most magnificent Ball Room measuring in leuii^h eighty-two feet, in width thirty-six, and in hcightli twen- ty-six. The ceiling is tastefully done in ornamental plaster work. Three superb chandeliers are suspended from it, of cut glass, and of exquisite workmanship ; which, together with those in the adjoining apartments. OF LEAMINGTON. 339 Assembly Rooms Interior Arrangements. are said to have cost a thousand guineas. On one side is a range of seven handsome windows ; of which the furniture, of crimson morine, with black fringe, is ex- tremely rich. On the opposite side are the two chimney- pieces of highly polished marble, from the quarries of Kilkenny ; above which are two large ornamental mirrors. At the upper end, is the orchestra to the left of which is a door, leading into the Card Room. This is a spaci- ous and handsome apartment ; and beyond it is a Reading Room, well provided with the London and provincial papers, and with some of the best periodical publications. The Reading Room, on ball nights, is converted into a Tea Room. Such are the internal arrangements of this well designed and highly finished erection, in every respect so complete and perfect as to leave nothing to be desired, except a happier choice of situation. 'But, here, by the confession of all, a capital error has been committed, as lamentable as it is irretrievable. Even in a closely-built and crouded city, where of course choice is always con- fined and fettered, to place so noble a structure in so unfit a situation, would scarcely have been pardoned. What, then, can be said for those, who, permitted with free liberty of choice, to range over the ground plot of a town, existing as yet only in the plans of an architect, have chosen so ill ? Before we finish even this slight sketch of the early history of New Leumingfon, it would be ungene- rous, if not unjust, to disappoint the fair and laudable ambition of an honest and industrious professor of the masonic art who has sent, for insertion in these pages, u u 2 340 PRESENT STATE, &c. First Foundation of the New Tozvn. tlie following notice ; which we willingly give, nearly in his own words at once, as a memorial of honourable distinction, and as a record of an interesting fact : " George Stanly, mason, of Warwick, laid the first " brick of the first house, erected at New Leamington, " October 8, ISOS.** This first house, which was built by Mr. Frost, of WdrwicJCf stands at the corner of Upper Cross-Street, opposite the Assembly Rooms; and it is with no more than a well deser\^ed compliment to the first bold adven- turer in a new and untried path, that a street, running parallel with Union- Street, only as yet in part formed, has, in honour of him, been named Frost- Street. I^l^lP V T li;.\^ .v]]]^],^^ iri^j]) -yvAmnvK . RIDES AND WALKS, &c. 341 Excursion to Warwick, by My ton. CHAP. XXXII. MiXyt^ anti WeXk^ rounti Eeaminuton. Excursion to Warwick to Kenilworth and Coventry to Stratford, by Sher- bourne by Charlecote to Kineton and Edgekills to Ha/ford Bridge to Knowle to Hockley to Henley-in-Arden to Harwood's House and Gaydon Inn to Barford, by Taehbrooke and the Asps to Southam to Kenilworth, byChesford Bridge to Coventry, byStoneleigh The Walks. J[N a slight and general way, we have already noticed the^we roads, with which the country round Leamington is intersected in almost every direction ; and the pleasing variety of rich and beautiful scenery which is almost every where presented sometimes even approaching to the higher and grander views of nature. Descending from generals to particulars since it is of particulars only, ac- cording to a trite obser\'ation, that we can form clear or precise ideas we shall now proceed to notice more dis- tinctly the principal rides, with which the circumjacent country abounds, taken in a circuit of about ten miles. RIDE TO WARWICK. Of all the rides or walks, not the least pleasant, is that which usually first presents itself to the visitors of Leamington, the ride to PFarwich either by the excel- lent and well-frequented road, through Myton Turnpike, or by the more retired and rural road through Emscote. The former, commencing near the southern extremity of 342 RIDES AND WALKS Excursion to Wnr/tick, by Emscote. the village, niiining for some way parallel with the Nap- ton Canal, crossing the Navigation Bridge, passing by Myton House* to the right, and the Lace Manufactory^ to the left, conducts over the New Bridge^ into the town. The approach to JVarwick on this side, as already noticed, || exhibits a display of picturesque beauty and grandeur which is rarely surpassed. The second road to Warwick, in part, newly form- ed, commences from the northern extremity of the New Town ; passing over a small rustic bridge at the bottom of a little romantic dell, turns to the left near a pleasant farm house, called the Cunery ; leaves the Rock Mill, and the adjoining Cotton Manufactory, to the right ; and passes over Emscote Bridge, a very ancient structure, " bestrid- ing with its wearisome but needful length" the waters of the Avon, which are here augmented by those of the Leam.^ ^This latter river, rising not far from Daventry, and entering the county near fVilloughhy, pursues a very winding course through the south-eastern tract ; and, after passing by Granhorough, PVappenhury, Offchurch, Leain- ington, and other villages, falls into the Avon, a little below Emscote Bridge. Dunsjnore Heath, lying between these two rivers, is the scene of some of the fabulous ex- ploits, recorded of Guv, Earl of War nick. To the left of the bridge, at some distance, stands the ancient Manor-house o^ Emscote, or Edmonscote, which from the rcie;n of Henry IV. to that of Henry VII. be- See Pag^ 58. t Page 78. $ Page 81. [j Page 65 66. { DucnAi.r, derives tlie narae of tliis river, on account of its slow motion at:d turbiil apprarance, from the Greek word limne, wiiich signifiei a pool or lake. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 343 Excursion to Keniluerth and Coventry, longed to the family of the Hugfords, many of whom were persons of great power and consequence, within this county.* In the latter reign, by the marriage of an heiress of this family, the estate passed into that of the Beau- foy's ; and, by them, in 1/7^? it was sold to the present Earl of Warwick, From Emscote Bridge, the road, passing near the Navigation Mill,^ conducts through Cote?! End, into the town. ^The view of JVarwick, from several points in this road, with its Churches and the nobis towers of its Castle, sometimes bursting on the sight, through the opening glades, and sometimes displayed in uninteniipted prospect, before the eye, is highly picturesque and beautiful. ;{: The fine trees, which adorn the sides of the road, give it occa- sionally the appearance of a drive through the groves of a park ; and ofter a friendly shade, during the summer heats, peculiarly grateful. ^This ride may be agreeably varied, by taking, instead of the new road, a circuit round by the road to LiUington, which will increase the distance rather more than a mile. EXCURSION TO KENILWORTH AND COVENTRY. Of the various rides from Warwick, may be noticed, first, the ride to Coventry ten miles which, for the excel- lence of the road itself, and the charms of the surrounding scenery, has ever been accounted one of the most delight- ful in the kingdom. Commencing, Avitli a broad sweep, nearly opposite the ancient hospital of St. John^\ leaving * S.-a DuGDALE, page- 187. Edit. 1656. t Page 78. ^ 0:;e of these views 13 given in Iueland's Pictureaque Vieva t^f tht WarmicW ire Aion. Jl Page 55. 344 RIDES AND WALKS Guy's-CliffBUicktozo Hill Weot ton. the Priory * standing on a fine eminence to the left, and a handsome newly erected villa to the right, and passing the bridge over the Birmingham Canal, the rich groves of Guy's-Cliff'^ soon appear. The mansion itself is seen through the dark shaded vista, formed by rows of aged and venerable firs. The Mill, as old as the era of the Conquest, immediately adjoins. Beyond the Toll-gate, to the left, is BlacMow Hill, crowned by tufts of evergreens, and distinguished as the place where Gaveston,J the haughty favorite of Edward II. was put to death by his powerful and relentless foes, in direct and daring violation both of the forms of law and the faith of treaties. A cross, commemorative of tlie event, called GavestorCs Cross, anciently stood here. Op- posite this hill, to the right, the windings of the Avon, in a lengthened course, are strikingly seen ; and beyond it, on a rising ground, the little recluse village of Milverton appears. Crossing a bridge, at the second mile, over a small stream, which falls into the Avon ; and ascending a gentle acclivity, the road, deeply cut in the solid rock, passes through the village of Leek JVootton, Here is a handsome Church, newly erected, which occupies a bold eminence to the left ; near it is a parsonage house, most delightfully rural ; and scattered round it are several good farm-houses. At a small distance from IVootton, is Jf^oodcote Manor House, of very ancient date ; which, at the time of the Conquest, as mentioned in Domesday Booh, was surround- ed by woods, extending a mile in length, and half a mile Page 237, &c. t Page 258, &c. % Page IJ and ro. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 345 Kenilwortli Ruins of the Cfistle and of the Priory. in breadth whence it received its name. It was at that time the property of the Earl of Mellent, and afterwards of the Earl of Leicester ; from whom it passed into the possession of the Boteleks, a family of great considera- tion in this county. It is now the property of Robert Mallory, Esq. of Bath. By recent improvements, the house presents the appearance of a handsome modern dwelling ; and its sequestered situation affords a perfect image of still and quiet iiiral seclusion. Leaving Wootton^ and crossing a new bridge, at the third mile, over a small stream called Holhrohe, on the summit of a gentle rise, appears a good farm-house, called the Grange beyond which, Kemlworth opens to view. This is a long, scattered, beautiful village, exactly midway between Pf^arwick and Coventry. The country about it appears luxuriantly fertile ; the ground pleasingly broken ; many of the houses are large and handsome ; most of them occupy delightful situations ; and the fine ruins of the Castle and the small remains of the Monastery of Black Canons, both founded in the reign of Henry L diffuse around a venerable air of antiquity and grandeur. Pursuing the road towards Coventry at some distance to the left, is seen Spring, the residence of David Lloyd, Esq. About the sixth mile, crossing a small brook, on the right, stood, anciently, Milhurne Grange, belonging to the Monks of Stoneleigh ; and, on tlie left, Cryfield, which, says Dugdale, before the Norman Con- f|uest, was a royal residence. It was afterwards assigned, by Henry II. to the use of the Cistercian Monks, who removed to this place from Radmore, Staffordshire, and who finally settled at Stoneleigh. Fvom the seventh X X 346 RIDES AND WALKS > ^1 i ^^ '^^ ^ ^ ^ y Approach to Coventry. ~ ' mile, the road is conducted in lo strait a line, that the next succeeding mile-stone is distinctly seen from it, at an apparent distance, scarcely eqaal to half" the real ; and yet, on approaching Coventry, so much does the same road wind about, that the spires of that ancient city are seen at one moment on the right, and at another on the left. ^The Road from Stoneleigh and Bagington falls into this, at the Toll-gate beyond which, from the sum- mit of a gentle rise, Coventry appears to view, with iti crowded buildings and numerous spires and towers, dis- played in nearly its whole extent from east to west. The four last miles of this road are shaded, on each side, by a fine plantation of young and flourishing trees, forming a noble avenue, much in the style, it has been remarked, of those of France, Flanders, and Germany. From Coventry, four miles on the Binley Road, is Combe Abbey, the seat of Lord Craven seven miles on the Birmingham Road, is Packington, the seat of the Earl of Aylesford and eight miles on the Hinchley Road, is Arbury, the seat of F. P. Newdigate, Esq. excursion to STRATFORD BY SHERBOURN. The second of the great roads from Warwick to Stratford eight miles is equally good as the former, and not less pleasant. Commencing from the JVest-Street, it runs, for about a mile, nearly parallel with the noble plantations, which form the boundary of Warwick Park: and, passing through Longbridge Turnpike, leaves to the left, at the second mile, the retired village of Shireburnc,* so called from a small stream, that inins through it. A * Iq our Old Eiiglikli, S/tir5urn< signifies a clear running itrcam. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 347 Stratford Road Fine View Fulbroke Castle, little beyond this, to the right, is Norhrooke Farm^ the solitary remains of an ancient village of that name ; and on the left, is the rustic entrance into the grounds belong- ing to Morville House, the seat of the Rev. Elias Webb/ About the third mile, the ground rises ; and a prospect, more than usually extensive for this flat country, opens, to the left, over a wide tract, finely diversified, richly cultivat- ed, and well-wooded, through which the Avon pursues its winding course. Circling round, is u pleasing range of hills, among which is Edge Hill ; and, in the midst, appear the villages of Barford, Wasperton, and Hampten Lucy. In the distance are seen Shuckburgh Hills, near Daventry. On the right, also, the prospect though more confined is pleasing ; and presents, in successive view, the woods of Grove Park, and the villages of Hampton-on-the-Hlll, Upper and Lower Norton, and Snitterjield. The road to this latter village bears off, near the 4th mile, to the right. On the opposite side of the road ; at a small distance, is a considerable eminence, still called Castle Hill, distinguished by a small plantation, on which former- ly stood the ancient Castle of Fulbroke. This, it is said, was built by John, Duke of Bedford, Regent of France, third son of Henry IV. It was afterwards in the posses- sion of several of the Earls of IVarwick. In the reign of Henry VIII. the Castle, then in a ruinous state, was taken down by Sir William Compton ; the materials were thence conveyed to Compton Winy ate ; and there employed in the erection of the mansion, which is now one of the seats of the Earls of Northampton. Some vestiges of Fulbroke Castle, were discovered, only a few years ago; consisting of a brick vault, with stone steps, nearly filled up, and some fragments of Gothic windows. X X 2 348 RIDES AND WALKS Packstnldle Hill Welcombe Lodge. Near the sixth mile, is Pachsaddle Hill, where a second prospect opens to the view, somewhat less varied, but scarcely less extensive than the former. The fine spire of Stratford Churchy rising from the bosom of spreading trees, forms nearly the central point, round which a tract of countiy, well wooded and well cultivated, extends ; enli- vened by several villages and hamlets, and shut in by Edge Hill, and those of Ilmington, Bredon, and Broadway, Near the seventh mile, at a small distance, to the right, deeply embosomed in the midst of its own hills, appears IVekomhe Lodge, the seat of George Lloyd, Esq. presenting a handsome Gothic front, recently finished ; and, a little further, in a style of elegant rusticity, is the entrance into the grounds. The mansion, which is an- cient, though still kept in good repair, formerly belonged to the family of the Combes ; but, about the beginning of the last century, it was purchased by John Lloyd, Esq. the father of the present possessor. IVelcomhe Hills, form a range of proudly swelling mounts, covered for the most part with turfted verdure, adorned with fine trees, some clustered together, others scattered about. These hills, it is said, were anciently the scene of fierce contentions be- tween the Britons and the Saxons. Hie vast entrenchments, known by the name of dingles or dells, supposed to be made by the latter, still remain. They are large excava- tions in the earth, sometimes to the depth of forty or fifty feet ; extending to a great length in one direction, from Avhich a shorter branch projects in another.* Through a part of these entrenchments, the approach to the house is pleasingly conducted. Near the mansion, is a smaller The *\hole logetlior resemble* in fomi, the Jeller Y. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 349 Welcombe Hills Approach to StratJ'ord. hill, entirely different in its appearance from the rest, to which the name of fVelcomhe is more usually given. It is of conical form ; and seems evidently the work of human labour,* immense as that labour must have been. It is with much probability supposed to be a tumulus, throw i\ up by the soldiers,;|: after their battles, over the remains of their slaughtered companions.'^ It is now richly cloathed ;by flourishing plantations; and its summit is crowned by a small tower from which, as well as from all the higher grounds, is commanded a diversified and most enchanting prospect, extending to a wide circumference over the whole surrounding country. About a mile from fFelcomhe Lodge, is the mean and unsightly entrance into Strafford a town so highly distinguished, and so justly proud of its distinction as the place where *' S^veetest Siiakespeauk, Fiuicy's child, Wai'bled liis native wood notes wild !" EXCURSION TO STRATFORD, BY CHARLECOTE. Tins road, branches off from the usual Stratford road, at the first Turnpike: near which is Lojigbridge House, the seat of William Staunton, Esq. At a short distance thence, an insignificant stream, crossing the road, divides the hamlet of Longbridge, from the neighbour- ing parish of Sherhourn ; and at the further distance of * There is a siiiiilar ariificial liiU near the Clmrch at Scckingdoii, \n the northern part f ihis county. It is f'orty-tliree feet higli, and iwentj-'ihree broad at top. Is'car ihis, it is icnown, a battle in tlie Saxan times was lought. Such hills are not uncommon in Wiltshire, where they are called Bnr'ous. In tiicse human bones have beun olten fouiui. i Two ancient spears were found in this place, only a lew yenrs ago, which are Jiov in the possession of John Li.oyd, E'^q. Et Icgi in usii fnisse sepienlrioiiaiibiis, ut 4int;iili niililes prrclio siiperstilcs lanMuii teriije quantum cassidc c*j)eie poteruni in occisoruin tiiinalos agj^orcrent, VjuideH. 350 RIDES AND WALKS Barford Wasperton Charlecote. about half a mile, on the right hand, appears the neat vil- lage church ; adjoining which is a good house, the pro- perty of Thomas Webb Edge, Esq. of Strelly, in Not- tinghamshire, and the present residence of the Rev. Henry Blackburne. Approaching towards Barfo?'d, on a bold and delightful eminence, to the left, is seen the spacious and beautiful mansion of Charles Mills, Esq. one of the Representatives of the Borovgh of Warwick. Crossing a good stone bridge, lately erected, Barford itself opens to view in which are several good houses, and one large and handsome, with an elegant Italian front. From Barford, the road is carried along the high banks of the Avon whose winding waters again beautifully appear, encircling and fertilizing some of the richest meadow grounds in the kingdom. Near the fourth mile, is indistinctly seen, to the right, amidst the greenwood shade, the small church of IVasperton; aiid about a mile further, the majestic groves of Charlecote, strikingly rise to view. Here, leaving the main road, and turning to the right, through a gateway, shaded on each side by a small plantation a long avenue of noble trees conducts into the pleasant village of Charlecote. The large and venerable mansion of the Lucy family presents itself boldly to view, from several points, in passing through the village. It was built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, by Sir Thomas Lucy, so well known as the prosecutor of Shakespeare who, in a youthful frolic, had stolen his deer ; and after- wards, in revenge for his supposed severity, had published against him, some rude and bitter lampoons. Adjoining the park the early haunts of the immortal bard is the ROUND LEAMINGTON. 351 Alveston Approach to Stratford The Bridge. Church rustic in its exterior appearance, but adorned within by several handsome monuments of the Lucy family and hy a large painted window of indifferent execution. From Charlecote, crossing a handsome stone bridge, the road winds round the boundary of the noble Park every where shaded with deep and lofty woods, and enlivened with herds of the finest deer. About two miles from Stratford, is Alveston, adorned with several hand- some villas ; of which one, to the right, is the residence of Sir Gray Skipwith, Bart. ; another, on the same side, is the residence of General Jenkinson ; and a third, to the left is Baraset House, the newly-erected seat of William Harding, Esq. This place is so much noted for the sa- lubrity of its air, that the late Dr. Perry scrujiled not to call it the Montpelier of England, Approaching towards Stratford, the meanderings of the Avon, once more beautifully appear ; and, beyond them, a fine view is obtained of the IVelcomhe Hills. The entrance into Strafford, is over a venerable stone bridge, of fourteen arches, erected by Sir Hugh Clopton, Lord Mayor of London, in the reign of Henry VH. whose an- cestors had long been seated at Clopton House , near this town. In the center of the bridge, is a stone pillar, on which are cut the arms of the city of London above, and those of the Cloptons below. This bridge ha?^ lately been repaired : and, though the ancient inscription* has at present disappeared, it is hoped, it will be speedily restored. * " Sir Hugh Ciopton-, Knight, Lord Major oiLondon, bui'-t tliis bridge at Lis on propt r cliarge, in rhe reign of Hbn r y VII." 352 RIDES AND WALKS Kinelon lioad Fine View Wulton Hull. EXCURSION TO KINETON AND EDGE HILL. The road to Kineton twelve miles is excellent, as far as IFelleshourne, about a mile be von d Charlecote JVoods to which pointy we have already traced it. Leaving JJ'^ellcslourne the soil soon changes from gravel to whitish clay, said to be intermixed with fuller's earth, and the road is not so good : but the face of the surrounding country assumes a new and interesting cha- racter. The ground, especially to the right, appears fine- ly diversified rising into boldly-swelling mounts and again sinking into small retiring vales or narrow glens and the rich verdure is every where crowned with noble trees and flourishing young plantations. Ascending the hill to the left an extensive and beautiful prospect tpens, over a tract of high cultivation, interspersed with svoods ; and the w idc expanse is encircled bv a range of azure hills, which fo;m a pleasing undulating line bound- ing the w hole. Near this part of the road thougli not visible from it to the right, at some distance, is JJ^alton Hall, the seat of Sir Charles Mordaunt, Bart, one of the JMembers for the County, The mansion occupies a low and secluded, but pleasing situation : and though ancient, yet recent improvements have rendered it commodious and handsome.* Between the second and third mile from Wiiliii) ilic doiudins of Wd^on, wne du;,' up, in 177, iliree sculls, Iviiig in a row, and illi tf;( m iwd f-.ixon \l-s\i :, s(;i in uolil. One of tli. e l.a! on tuit'i -fics a cross, jilacrd bfi'i'CCii lvo liiiiiiun figiirt,-., v i;!i .1 bivoid or lance, in tiif culer hr.nd rilcacli : tlie ijil.Cf WBS set i li an opal jiitl lun ir.ijin An in'-crii.lioii on niio cjf ii.i'-e wa, \pliiir)id hv Dr PlcCK. lo nifan Mhv anii 1)s\v*i.d; refi-ning, lie M)p))ci5t(i. 10 8'.. Os\'. a 1 l>> jalrnii of V, crccitcr, & A slruco Lv \V(U.^ 1 a s. Bishop i/I t!it St-p. abuiil IDiiC. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 353 Compton Verney, seat of Lord IVilloug/ibj/ de Broke. Kington, the road is intersected by the great Roman Fosse IVay, extending in a long strait line from Cirencester, to High-Cross f in Leicestershire. DESCENDING the hill is Compton-Verney , anci- ently Compton-Murdak : of which names, the first part is received from its low situation ;* and the second, from its two most distinguished possessors. Of Murdak, the more ancient of the two families, the first who obtained possession of this estate was Robert Murdak, in the reign of Henry I. from whom it was transmitted down to his descendants : till, in the reign of Edward III. it was granted to the celebrated Alice Perers, the King's mistress, and afterwards the wife of Sir William Wind- sor. On the mamage of one of his daughters, to Robert Skene, of^Kingsfon-upon-Tha??ies, the estate was trans- ferred to him ; who, however, soon afterwards disposed of it to Richard Verney, Esq. the ancestor of the present family. One of his descendants, Richard Verney, Esq. in 1691, obtained the title of Baron Willoughhy de Broke, in right of his maternal ancestor, who was sister to Fulk Lord Brooke. He died in 1/11, at the advanced age of 91 : and was succeeded by George Verney, D. D. Dean of JVindsor, who died in 1^28. Richard, his son, was the next successor ; on whose decease, in 17^2, without male issue, the title and estate descended to his nephew, John Peyto Verney, the present Lord, who in l'jQ'6, was appointed one of the Lords of his Majesty's Bedchamber. Compton House, the seat of this virtuous and Yenerable nobleman, was erected about the year 1751 : of Ceom or Cwm signifies a vale oi acj low situatioH. y y 354 RIDES AND WALKS Kington Meeting of' Charles I. and his Queen. which the exterior, though not magnificent, is spacious and handsome; and the interior is commodious rather than splendid. The hall, however, is a noble room, of ample dimensions and just proportions: highly embellished with paintings in pannels, by the celebrated Italian artist, ZuccHERO, representing views in his own native country. Adjoining the house, is a beautiful domestic Chapel. The surrounding pleasure grounds are of great extent and agreeably varied; wood, in rich abundance, and a fine expanse of water unite to form and complete a silvan scene, tiTily delightful. In the green-house, is seen a choice collection of exotics ; and almost all the species of heaths, known to botanists, are here exhibited in pleasing arrangement. Among the objects of curiosity, is a cork tree, of large size and fine form, which grows vigorously, though under a climate so different from its own, in one of the parterres, near the house. About a mile from Compton, is the small town of Kington, or Kineton, so denominated, according to Cam- den, from the traffic in kine, for which it was formerly noted; as the neighbouring Shipston, is from that of sheep. But Dugdale traces its name to the circumstance of its having been a royal domain, so far back as the time of Edward the Confessor, and William the Conglue- ROR. Anciently, a castle stood on a hill, to the nortli-cast of the town ; where, as tradition tells, King John occa- sionally resided ; and, at the foot of it, is a ivell, still called King John's IVell. In the vale of Kineton, a meeting took place between King Charles I. and his Queen, Henrietta Maria, July 13, l643. Elated by some re- cent success which had attended his arms, from this ])lace, the King and (^ueen proceeded to OiJ'uvd, and entered ROUND LEAMINGTON. 355 Extensive Vierofrom Edge Hill, that city together, in a triumphant manner. In comme- moration of this meeting, under such auspicious circum- stances, a medal was struck, which is still in existence.* Here are held a weekly market, and two annual fairs. The population is about 800. About two miles beyond Kineton, is Edge Hill, rising abruptly, amidst an extensive tract comparatively level, and forming a steep lofty ridge whence it obtains its name. It stretches in a long range of about five miles; and commands a prospect of vast extent over this and the adjacent counties including, in the whole, no less than eleven besides the more remote hills, in two of the Welch counties ; which are, also, to be discerned, though some- what indistinctly, in a clear day. Warwick Castle and Coventry Spires are among the distinct objects ; and, still more distantly, in a wide circumference, are to be seen Stow Hill, in Gloucestershire ; Bredon, Broadway, and Malvern, in fVor c ester si dr e ; the JVreMn, in Shropshire ; the Bardon Hills, in Leicestershire ; and Shuckhurgh Hills, on the borders of Northamptonshire, Within a nearer view, is Compton Winy ate, the seat of Compton, Marquis of Northampton: in whose family the possession of this estate has ])een ever since the time of King John. It is a large but irregular house, built * An engraving of this Iiistorica! rnedel, may be seen in Evelyn's Discourse of Miduls, page71J. The medal itself, which is unique, is in liie same cabinet, TvUh (lie coin of Haiithacnut, mentioned in page i], of t'jis work. The oh verse represents the King and Queen sitting with joined hands, trampling upon ilie Dragon Python, with tiiis circum- scription, cERTivs. PYTnoNBM. ivNCii. TiiC rcvefsc consiils of the foilQwing ir)=ciip- tion, XIII. IVL. CAROL. ET. MAnijE. M. B. T, F.T. V . 11. R. IN. VAI-JE. KEINIOM', AVSPICAT. OCCVnRE. NT. T. FVOATO. IN. OCCJUbNT. REBSLLIVM. VICT. 1, PAO. OMEN. OXON, MDCXLIII. y Y 2 356 RIDES AND WALKS Compton Winyate Artificial Ruins, ill the reij^n of Henry VIII. with materials, brought from the ruins of Fulhroke Castle. Tlie chimneys are formed jin spires and zigzags ; and over the porch of the principal entrance, are the arras of England and France, supported by a griffin and a greyhound. Of this family was Dr. Henry Compton, the truly amiable and excellent BisJiop of London, who was born ^t this place, in lG32, and died 1713. Near the centre of Edge Hill purposely erected for the accommodation of those who wish to enjoy the prospect is a spacious and well-conducted Inn, called the Rising Sun. From this place, on a natural ten-ace, form- ed along the edge of the hill, pleasing walks are carried, occasionally sheltered by trees and underwood, whence the prospect may be contemplated from various points. About a mile from the Inn, are the artificial iiiins of a castle, constructed by R. S. Millar, Esq. ; whose house, built by himself, and npw the residence of his son, F. S. Mil- lar, Es(j. is situated, near the church, at Radway, in the vale below. From the upper room, in the round tower, which form part of these niins, the grand and extensive prospect is seen to the best advantage. The windows of this room are filled with painted glass ; and the ceiling is ornamented Avith the arms of the Saxon Kings and those of several neighbouring gentlemen. Immediately before this tower, in the vale below, was the scene of the memorable battle between the Royal and the Parliamentary forces, which was fought on Sunday, the 23rd Day of October, l6'42, as mentioned in a former part of this work. A farm house called Battle Far?n, shews the exact spot. Not less than 20,000 men, it is said. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 35^ Battle of Edge Hill. were engaged in this unhappy contest : and of these, according to the common statement, five thousand were left dead in the field ; but more accurate accounts re- duce the amount to half that number. A small plan- tation of firs marks the place where five hundred of the slaughtered victims were promiscuously thrown into a pit : and another small plantation distinguishes the ite of a cottage, in which the two young princes, af- terwards Charles II. and James II. remained daring the battle. In this engagement, on the side of the King, the Earl of Lindsey, general of his army, was mor- tally wounded, and taken prisoner : and his son. Lord WiLLOUGHBY, attempting his rescue, fell into the enemy's hands. Sir Edmond Verney, the king's standard bearer, was killed, and the standard taken, which was afterwards fetaken by Sir John Smith, who was created, on this occasion, a Knight Banneret. Lord Aubigny, brother to the Duke of Richmond, and other distinguished per- sonages were abo killed. A handsome monument, erected to the memory of one of these. Captain Kingsmill, was lately removed from the church-yard, into the church of Radway. ^The event of this mournful contest, it is now generally admitted, was indecisive : though both parties, at the time, strenuously maintained that the advantage remained with them. We have seen no fewer than six printed tracts, published at that period; in which the action is variously detailed ; and in which each party claim the honor of the victory, and impute to their oppqnents, the greater loss in the number of the killed and wounded. It is, however, sufficiently understood that Lord Essex, the leader of the Parliamentary army, was the first to with- draw from the field of battle ; but that the greater propor- tion of officers of distinction fell on the side of the Roval- 358 RIDES AND WALKS lied Horse Annual cere'tnotij/ of Scouring it. ists ; and that both parties were glad to retire, on the suc- ceeding day, without attempting to renew the contest. Pieces of armour, bucklers, spear-heads, sword-handles, skulls, and bones, have been frequently turned up by tho plough, and are slill occasionally found. To the left of the Inn, at the distance of a mile, nearly opposite Tysoe church, nidely cut on the side of a hill, was, till lately, the figure of a horse: which, from the colour of the soil, was termed the red horse; and the low grounds, adjacent, are Still called the red horse vale. The dimensions of the figure were, from the croup to the chest, thirty-four feet ; from the ears to the shoulder, fourteen feet ; and from the shoulder to the ground, sixteen feet. A fi\rm, near it, called Red Horse Farm, was held, on condition of scouring the figure, which was to be done annually, on Palm Sunday; when the country people, who assisted in the ceremony, were usually regaled with cakes and ale. It was on that day, 146l, that the battle of Towton was fought; previously to which, Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick, is said to have killed his horse, with his own hand, to shew his determined purpose of sharing all the dangers of the fight, equally with the meanest of his soldiers. As a memorial of the victorv, tlms achieved, this gigantic figure is thought to have been originally formed, and the obligation of scouring it im- posed. Lately, however, that obligation has been set aside ; and the old figure of the horse has been obliterated. Another of the same form and dimensions has, indeed, since been cut, on a part of the hill, nearer to the Inn : but as the annual scouring is now become a mere matter of choice, it may be expected that this very ancient cus- tom will soon disappear. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 359 Wclhbourne Hastings Church Parsonage House. From Edge Hill to fVellsbourne, on the return to IVarwich, a shorter and better road than that through KinetoHj will be found through Pillerton and Eatington, EXCURSION TO HALFORD BRIDGE. This road is the same as the Kinefon, as far as PFellshourne ^where it turns to the right passing thi'ough the whole extent of the village. Wellsbourne-Hastixgs derives the first part of its name from the small stream* which runs through it in its way to join the Avon ; and the second from the ancient family of the Hastings, to whom it was granted by one of the Norman Earls of Warwick. It is a consi- derable village ; and in these days of multiplied and immense taxation, derives no small consequence, from the meeting of the Commissioners held in it for the Hundred of Kineton whither, on such occasions, crowds of murmur- ing appellants usually resort. Here is a handsome country church, originally built by Henry de Newburg, Eard of IVarwich, still preserved in excellent repair. Its tower, clothed with ivy from its base to its summit, is beautifully picturesque : and one or two marble tablets placed against it consecrated to the memory of some of the Dewes's family skreened and shrouded amidst the dark-shaded verdure strikingly appear. Near the church, most ru- rally situated, is the Parsonage- House ^ pleasingly over- hung with clustering ivy, and delightfully sheltered beneath the umbrageous arms of lofty elms. The present possessor, the Vicar of the parish, is honorably known to the public. '* Bur-.c ill (! e 5a\o:\ is liie f'Srae as iui-rens i:i ri s LaUii, DucDAr.r. 360 RIDES AND WALKS Fine Vieic beyond Wellabournr. by three admirable discourses,* pnblislied during the earlier periods of the late war in which, a solemn protest, ably supported by the united powers of argument and eloquence, is delivered against the shameless but too frequent perver- sions of War-Fasts, to the detestable purposes of exciting or promoting, at home, the spirit of suspicion and intole- rance, and abroad, the mad ambition of conquest, and the horrible and wicked thirst of bloodshed. Near the southern extremity of the village, is the handsome seat of Bernard Dewes, Esq. one of the most intelligent and active ma- gistrates of the county. His brother, the late Court Dewes, Esq. is known to the public as the intimate friend of the celebrated Miss Seward ; in whose family she often visited, and to whom, many of her letters, published not long ago, are addressed. This excellent man, though he never appeared as an author, it is said, on so great an au- thority as that of Dr. Parr, was critically skilled in Greek, Latin, French, and Italian: and his taste was pure and correct. Leaving IFellshourne ascending the hill, about a mile distant the confined though pleasing views which IVurwichshire usually presents, are exchanged for the higher pleasures which more extended and varied prospects aftbrd. Here, to the left, a fine tract of verdant champaign country, stretching in a vast circumference is seen; in every part richly fertile, embellished with beautiful wood- scencr)', and cncompasHHl by a vast circle of hills, "gra- dually receding from the eye, and melting in the ethcrial distance." "Two Sermons nicaclied on the Public Fasts ol" April, l70[\, and Feb. 179-1." " ' War the Stumbling Block of a Christian,' bv tlie R<ir. I. 11. Williams, L. L. B. Vicat *1 \Villbyurne." ROUND LEAMINGTON. sGi Fjiitivgton EatingfoH Hal'. About three miles farther, a modern-built Church, seated on a bleak and solitary eminence, announces the approach to Upper Eating ton from which, however, it is widely, and, for the parishioners, inconveniently disjoin- ed. This is a long scattered village, w4th some good farm houses ; and, besides the episcopal church, affords two places of Dissenting Worship. At the distance of another mile, to the right, is Eatington Hail, the seat of Evelyn John Shirley, Esq. whose uucesiuis vverehere seated so long a2;o as the period of the Norman Coii<|Tic3t -. and '"It is the only place" says DuGDALE, "which glories in an uninterrupted succession of owners for so long a tract of time." Sewallis, the first of this very ancient family, is described by Dugdale, as a Saxon Thane of great power, and vast possessions. In the reign of Henry III. his descendants first assumed the name of Shirley, from a place of the same name w^hich belonged to them in Derbyshire : and, in the reign of Queen Anne, Robert Shirley, who had already obtained the title of Baron Ferrers of Chartlei), in right of his maternal ancestor, was advanced to the higher dignities of Viscount Tamworth and Earl Ferrers. In an elder branch of the same family, who are seated at Chartley Castle., Siajfbrdshire, and at Staunton Harold, Leicestershire, these titles still continue. Ratington Hall is a large, ancient, and venerable mansion, to which considerable additions have been made, in later times. It is very irregular in its exterior appear- ance ; but amply affords, within, all the suitable accommo- dations for a gentleman of family and fortune. Tlie en- trance hall is appropriately adorned with a small collection z z 362 RIDES AND WALKS Lover Eatington Church Great Roman Fosse Wai/. of old English armour. The drawing room is a spacious and elegant apartment ; richly embellished with numerous paintings, many of them by tlie hands of the great masters of ancient and modern times. The libraiy contains a good though not large collection of books ; and the museum of natural history, adjoining, exhibits, in pleasing arrangement and considerable variety, beautiful specimens of birds, heasts, insects, and fossils. Near the house is an extensive park, well shaded with trees, in some parts, ornamented with remarkably fine hawthorns ; and, eveiy where, enli-' vened by herds of deer. Immediately adjoining, axe there- mains oi Lower Eatiftii^on church, consisting of the walls of the tower, and several noble arches of early Norman ar- chitecture, pleasingly overhung with clustering ivy. In the chancel, which is still entire, is a splendid monument of white marble, consecrated to the memory of Robert, Earl Ferrers, great grandfather of the present possessor of Eatington, Placed on each side of a marble tablet, charged with an English inscription, are the figures of the Earl and his Countess, extremely fine ; and, above, is that of their descendant, by whom this monument Avas erected. Approaching Haljord Bridge, the road falls into the great Roman Fosse Waif carried in a long strait line, from H'lsli Cross, on the JFatU mi- Street road, in Leices- tershire, to this place whence it pursues its progress ; forming, in great part, the turnpike load through Stow and Northleach, terminating at Cirencester. Its structure, when examined, is found to be a layer of stones at the bottom, and a stratum of gravel upon it. It is said to have been originally formed in the time of Adrian, about seventeen hundred years ago : and, in nnicli of its course, it still remains almo-t as firm and compact as \Aiieii first ROUND LEAMINGTON. 363 Hal ford Bridge Wedgnock Park, coustnicted. About twelve or fourteen inches under its lower stratum, skeletons, and with thera swords or spears, have sometimes been discovered. Halford, was, anciently, according to DugdalEj Old Ford; so named from the Ford over the little river Stoitr, near it, whose place, however, has long been more conveniently supplied by a stone bridge ; which itself shews marks of antiquity, in its structure, and in its decays. This is a small sequestered village, with a good old church ; and is chiefly noted for its pleasant and well regulated Inn, and its delightful and well kept Bowling Green the resort, during the summer season, of the neighbouring gentry. EXCURSION THROUGH HATTON TO KNOWLE. The fourth great road from Warwick to Knowle, 10 miles is generally good : and leads through a well cultivated country, though intermixed with some extensive heaths ; most of which, are, however, about to be inclosed. Passing the turnpike to the left, is the newly-erected mansion of John Edwards, Esq. built in a style of much elegance, seated on a delightful eminence, and command- ing, from its windows, and from all its higher grounds, enchanting prospects. On the right, for nearly a mile, is the ancient IVedgnock Pcn^k ; originally enclosed by Henry de Newburg, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry I; and said to be the second of the kind in the kingdom; of which, Woodstock Park, formed by the King himself Avas the first. It is now, with one small exception, converted to the more useful purposes of agriculture; though it still retains the name of the Old Park. z z 2 304 RIDES AND WALKS View from HuUou Hill Hntton. A little beyond the second mile, is Hatton Hill ; from which an extensive and diversified prospect is obtain- ed, over the i'ertile tract that surronnds fVarwlck; in every part highly cultivated^, and finely wooded; encircled by gently-rising hills ; and terminated, in the distance, by S/iucJiburgh Hill on one side, and Edge Hill on the other. Hatton, originally, according to Dugdale, Heath Toicn, so named from the heathy tract, near which it stands, was anciently part of the vast domain of Henry DE Nevvburg: and of him was held by Hugh de Hatton, who fixed his principal seat in it, and assumed from it his surname. In default of male issue, by the marriage of one of the female heirs, the estate passed into the family of the Clintons : and finally reverted to that of Beau- champ, Earls of Wariv'ich. But part of the lands, together with the church, was granted to the Nuns of JVroxhall Ahhcy : and, in their possession, continued, till the time of the Dissolution. Hatton is a small village, but highly distinguished as the chosen residence, for so many past years, of one of the greatest scholars, and most enlightened men of the pre- sent Jige. It is hardly necessary to subjoin the name of the Kev. Dr. Parr of whom, it still remains to be regretted, that no literary work has yet ])rocecded from his pen,* Yet llie following, it must be pralcfully ttcI<no\vlcJged, is no scanty list of works, with wliicli ilic learned Doctor has nlieady favoured llie public. A Sermon on Ediicatinn, pronclied at Norwich A Sermon, called Fh'dclcntherpf Wnfolcicmis, wliicli the writer is said to consider m his best composiiion. A second and much lurger DisroursiC on F.'Jucution, will) copious iii'tes. Tliese were published during bis residence at Norwich. Since his rcsi<ltiice at Hatton, lie Inn puhlislicd a Spital Sermon, wliich, wiiii the notes, would form a coinnioii 8vo. Vol. A Fust Sermon A Letter from Ircnopolis to the Inhabilanls of ElcU' ihi.rj>o'i\s,~- \ ],cltcr to a neighbouring Ckrgyman, in wiiich a vaiicty of topics, literacy and ROUND LEAMINGTON. 365 Hotton Parsonage Hattort Church. worthy to transmit a name of so much celebrity, with all its due honour, to a distant posterity. The Parsonage House, where in studious and dignified retirement he has so long resided, is a commodious dwelling ; and contains one noble room, built by himself, richly furnishexl with an extensive and valuable library, in which a fine collection of all the great works in the department of verbal criticism, classical literature, and theology, hold a pre-eminent station. At a small distance from the Parsonage House, is the pleasing village church ; in which this very learned Divine performs clerical duty, with all the attentive regu- larity, and all the solicitous care, of the most exemplary parish priest. The interior is embellished, chiefly by his taste and liberality, with every suitable decoration ; espe- cially in the beautiful painted glass, with which the windows arc ndorned. Of the numerous monumental in- political are discussed. A yet larger work, addressed to a Co-editor, in which he vindicates Lis honour from unjust aspersion, and delivers liis opinion upon many interesting topics of literature and criticism, Tracts ofWarburton and a Warburtonian, of which the preface and dedication abound with proofs of his erudition, taste, and wit; and of wiiicli the com- position lias been much admired. A. Latin Preface to some learned tracts of Bei'endcnus, ' Characters of Charles James Fox," 2 vols. 8vo. of which the first vol. closes with a portrait of that greatest of modern statesmen, pleasingly and powerfully deliiieated by tlie Editor himself ; and the second, consisting wholly of notes, contains, amidst much valuable in- struction on many interesting and important subjects, a masterly discussion of a question, in which tj.e justice, the policy, and the humanity of this country are equally and highly poncerned, viz. the state of its criminal code. In tlie Monthly Ecview and B^it'ish Critic^ are also several articles from his pen. But he is indebted for much of his literary fume to his great skill in wri ing Latin and English Inscriptions; of which the number already amounts to thirty ; and among which, three to the memory of Mr. Gibbon, Dr. John- sojJ, and Siu John Moore are highly distinguished, and two to the memory of Mr, TBuRKE and Mr. Fox are said to be wriuen with great etfort, but have not seen the light. His IMS. Sermons and discussions ujon many points of literature and raetaphysic--, are known to his Iriends to be numerous ; but he seems to iiave a peculiar and almost invinci- ble dislike to ;.ub'iea ion ; and there is Hi;ha])pi!y a rnmou: that all his MSS arc ordered to be deitfoved, after liis decease. 366 RIDES AND WALKS Pleasing Vitw ntar Hutton [Vroxhall Abbey. scriptions, suspended round the walls, several are proved, by their classical purity and elegance, to be the produc- tion of his pen : and of these, three are consecrated to the memory of the members* of his own family, all of whom it is his melancholy fate to survive ! About a mile from Hatton, to the right, a pleas- ing view of a well-wooded country presents itself; in the midst of which, are seen the ivied towers and battlements of Ken'divorth Castle, magniticeut even in its ruins. Six miles from Warivich, is IVroxhall Ahhey, one of the very few religious houses in England, appropriated to the reception o{ female devotees. It was founded in the reign of Stephen, by Hugh de Hatton ; by whom, and by many other benefactors, it was liberally endowed. The Nuns were of the Benedictine order : and, for a long suc- cession of ages, their establishment flourished in wealth and reputation ; till, at the period so fatal to all monastic institutions, it was dissolved. Dugdale indignantly de- plores the barbarous and unhallowed violence, which sub- verted this, amongst so many other 'f goodly structures" of the same kind in England : and, with more reason, laments the unfeeling severity, which drove, from their peaceful retreats, the members of this holy sisterhood, without the slightest provision for their future support the Prioress only excepted, whose name was Ann Little, and who obtained a small pension for life. . The site of If^roxhall Ahheif, the Church, and the surrounding domains, were granted in the reign of Henrv * Seo Appendix, No. 13. ROUND LEAMINGTON. sSf Wroxhall Church Venerable Oak. VIII. to Robert Burgoyne, and John Scudamore ; by the former of whom, the present mansion was erected, in the style of architecture, prevailing in the reign of Eliza- beth. In 1713, this mansion, with all its manerial rights, was purchased by the highly celebrated Sir Christopher Wren : the second in order of time, but the first in talent and fame of our erreat Enirlish architects; of whom it is con- cisely and forcibly said, by Lord Orford that " a variety of knowledge proclaims the universality, a multiplicity of works the abundance, and St. PauVs the greatness of his genius." The estate still remains in the possession of his descendant, Christopher Wren, Esq. by whom the an- cient manor house, long left in a neglected state, has been lately ordered r\ he- vppaired, with a view, it is said, to his own future residence in the seat of his great ancestor. Wroxhall Cburch is a good old structure, form- ing the side of a square, of which the buildings of the Abbey itself form the other three sides. The windows are adorned with painted glass, extremely fine ; of which the figures of Moses and Aaron, for the beauty of the drapery, and the splendour of the colouring, are particularly admi- red. Within the church, are monumental inscriptions to the memory of several of the Wren family. A little beyond a small Inn, called Tom d Bedlam, is a venerable oak, said to be 200 years old ; measuring in the girth, twenty yards, and of which one of the spreading arms extends over a road thirty feet wide. About a mile from the same Inn to the left is Baddesley Clinton Hall, the seat of Edward Ferrers, 368 RIDES AND WALKS Jiaddesley-Clinton Hull. Esq. Accoidlnji to an old historical document,* still carefully preserved in it, this ancient mansion received its first name from Bade, a Saxon, who resided here in the days of Edward the Confessor ; and its second, from Sir ThoxMas de Clinton, of Coshill, who obtained it in the reign of Henry III. in right of bis wife. Mazer a, daughter and heiress of James de Besege. After vari- ous transmissions, it became, in the reign of Henry IV. by purchase, the property of John Brome, a wealthy lawyer of IVarwich, who lived in a house at the south end of the Bridge, which long retained the name of Brome Place. On his deatli, the consequence of a wound he received in a dispute with one John Hearthill, his son, NlTHOLAs, snrreeded as 1 .nrri nf ihp IVJannr ftf Tiadfleslcy : and, by the marriixge of Constance, his daughter, with Sir Edward Ferrers, grandson of Sir Thomas Ferrers ot Tanuvorth Castle the estate passed into the possession of this family, in which it has ever since remained. Few of all the great families of England, can boast of a higher or more illustrious descent, than that of the Ferrers'. Originally of Norman extraction, the first of the family settled in this country, was Henry de Ferrers, who came over with the CoNauEROR, and obtained from him vast possessions in IVarwkkshlre, and other counties. This curious Document is in verse, written in ilie reign of yvKtM Ei.i/.ABrrii, by Henry FERUEns, E^q. of Baddesley, wlio is lionorablj? mentioned hy Dit.dat.e, as an eminent antiquarian ; and, vrliut is sti'l lii^her praise, as a tuan of (]istingui<^!icd worili, refleciin;; lustre on the onci-nt and noble family to which lie btlungcd. l?y the learni'd Camdkn, also, a tesiimony. equally bunoroble.is recorded, both to his extensive knowledge of antiquities, and to his excellence of character, in the Lrilanuia, Goucn's Kd. v. 2, p. 4J7. He died October !(>, 1633, and lies buried in the chancel of I'ladiUiUy Churcli. By the favor of his descendant, the present Majou i'tBRtns, ibis docuiucjit is given in Ibe Appendix, Nw. J-4. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 369 Baddcs/cj/ Clinton Hall. In the reign of Stephen, his son, Robert de Ferrers, was advanced to the dignity of Earl of Derhy ; and this title was transmitted down to his descendants, till in the reign of Henry III. it was forfeited by Robert, the sixth in succession, after his second revolt, which ended in his defeat, at the battle of Chester Jield. In the following reign, his family regained the royal favor ; and William, his brother, and John, his son, were summoned to Par- liament, by the titles, the one of Lord Ferrers of Chart- ley, and the other of Lord Ferrers oJ' Grohy. In failure of male issue, by the marriage of female heirs, the former of these titles passed into the family, first of the Deve- RKUX, afterwards Earls of Essex; and next of the Shir- leys, so long seated at Eatbigton, in an elder branch of which, it still continues. From William Lord Ferrers of Grohy, whose title has since become extinct, both the Ferrers', of Tamworth Castle, and those of Baddesley Clinton, are descended ; and of these, the latter claims the honor of being the oldest representatives, in the male line, of the noble family to which they belong. Baddesley Clinton Hall, is a structure of very ancient date, though the time of its erection is not ex- actly known. It is a stone building of low elevation, but of considerable extent ; forming three sides of a square, of which, the fourth side, if it ever existed, has long since disappeared. It is surrounded by a moat, over which a bridge conducts to the entrance; leading, through the lofty arch of an embattled gateway, into the inner court. To the left is the venerable hall, which still retains the marks of great antiquity in its form and structure, and in the curious carvings of its mantle-piece. The windows of this apartment, as well as of anotlier adjoin- 3 A 370 RIDES AND WALKS Baddeslcy Church Knowle The Church. ing room of similar appearance, though of smaller extent, are finely adorned with painted glass, representing th,e armorial hearings of the Ferrers', and other families, connected with it. Near the hall, is the Village Church of humble appearance, in which are several monuments of the same ancient and honorable family, and some small remains of the fine painted glass, which formerly embel- lished it ; and of which the figure of Christ on the Cros&, extremely fine, with striking architectural decorations in the back-ground, is still in a good state of preservation. Two miles beyond this, is Knowle, originally Knoll; which, therefore, derives its name, like so many other Saxon names of places, from its situation. It is a small town, standing on elevated ground, in the midst of fertile fields. In the reign of King John, this Lordship was in the possession of William de Arden : and from one qf his descendants, it was transferred to Eleanor, consort of Edward I ; on whose death, it was granted to the Monks of fVestminster. In the reign of Richard \l. the chapel in this village was erected, at his own expense, by Walter Cook, Canon of Lincoln, and afterwards of St. Paul's, London ; who endowed it with land, sufficient for the maintenance of one secular priest. In the follow- ing reign, the same pious and benevolent person, establish- ed here a chantry of two priests ; founded, also, a Gild, into which many personages of high distinction were admitted ; and, finally, instituted a college of ten chantry priests. But this last establishment seems afterwards, for want of proper support, to have declined ; since, at the Dissolution, it appears that only two priests then belonged to it. The Chapel is of considerable size ; and shews the marks of its antiquity in its general form and structure, in its remains ROUND LEAMINGTON. 371 Springjield Balsall Temple. of Stained glass, and in the grotesque carved work, which forms part of its exterior embellishment. About one mile to the right of Knowle, is Sprirtg- Jield, the elegant and delightful mansion of Joseph Boult- BEE, Esq. and about two miles, is Balsall, usually called Balsall Temple : of which the lordship was given, in the reign of Henry II. by Roger de Mowbray, to the fra- ternity of Knights Templars, I'hese religious knights, who obtained their name from the place of their residence, near the Temple at Jerusalem, and whose professed object was the protection of Christian pilgrims resorting to the tomb of their Savior, came into England in the reign of Henry II. ; and settled first in Holborn, and next in Fleet-Street, London, where they built the mansion, still called the Temple. By them, the Church at Balsall, was erected ; and near it a house, as a preceptory or cell to the principal mansion in London; and their valuable estate in this place was increased by large additional grants of land, in other parts of the county. But this order was of no long duration : for, in the reign of Ed- ward II. either from a dread of their growing power, or in consequence of their own misconduct, they were for- mally dissolved ; and their estates at Balsall, were granted to another similar order, called Knights Hospitallers. These religious knights derived their name from the hos- pital of St. John the Baptist, at Jerusalem; and their profession was, to entertain and to protect persons in their pilgrimage to and from the holy city. They had a longer and a more prosperous course than the rival knights, whom they had supplanted ; and, in their possession, the estates at Balsall continued, till the general Dissolution, when they were seized by the Crown. In the reign of 3 A 2 3/2 RIDES AND WALKS BalsitU Hospital BuUall Church. Elizabeth, this mauor was granted to Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester ; and, by the will of his gran d-d anghter, Lady Catherine Leveson, it was appropriated to the benevolent purpose of founding an Hospital, for the re- ception of indigent women, either unniamed or widows, chosen from the inhabitants of the following parishes, with a preference to be given to the first, Balsall, Long Itchhigton, ff'arwicJishlre ; Trentfiam, Staffordshire ; Lil- lenhall, Shropshire. This institution is now in a very flourishing state ; its annual income falls little short of ^1,500 a year; and the number of its alms-women, in- creased at diflerent times, amounts at present to thirty. The buildings, belonging to it, are extensive and substan- tial ; forming a complete square ; and healthfully situated on the edge of a spacious and fertile green. The tnis- tees are the Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, the Earls of IVarwich and Aylesford, and several of the most re- spectable gentlemen in the county. The whole institution is placed under the immediate charge of a master, with a salary of ^150 per annum; who, at this time, is th Rev. J. Short. Balsall Church is an object of peculiar interest, to every lover of antiquity ; as it still remains, with little change, such as it was at its first erection, nearly seven hundred years ago. The form is oblong, measuring one hundred and two feet long, thirty-eight broad, and fifty- seven high. At the east and west ends are lofty windows, with fine pointed arches, extending from the roof nearly to the ground ; and on the sides are three noble windows. The heads of all the windows are adorned with beautiful trace- ry, and all dissimilar. There are no divisions within ; and the chancel is distinguished from the body of the church. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 3^3 Howington Packwood Lapioorth Hockley. only by a floor, rising three steps. The walls are massy and covered with vast and irregular clusters of aged ivy ; which overshade the windows, and even push their way, through broken panes or other small fissures, into the in- terior. Over the west' door is a low turret ; and, on the same side, placed below the cornice, is a row of ten heads, in a good state of preservation, accounted to be of excel- lent workmanship. Near the<;hurch, is the ancient Hall of the Templars, formerly a splendid apartment, but now presenting all the humble appearance of a barn. It is ~ said to have been one hundred and forty feet long. EXCURSION TO HOCKLEY-HOUSE. Teiis road branches off from the former at Hatton about two miles beyond which, is the small village of Rowington ; written in Doomsday Book, RocMnton ; so named, therefore, from the rocky eminence on which it is situated. Close to the road, on the right, loftily rises the village church : the ascent to which, is by steps cut in the solid rock. Near it is the handsome residence of Samuel Aston, Esq. To the left of this village, runs the Pf^arwkk and Btrmmgharn Canal, carried, in one part, at an immense expense of human labour, over a deep vale ; and in another, through a tunnel of consider- able length. At about ei2:ht miles from fVai^mch, to the riarht, not visible from the road, is an ancient jNJanor House, called Packwood House, late the residence of Thomas Fetherstone, Esq. and to the left, appears the handsome spire of Lapworth Church. Two miles beyond is Hocklcu- House, a large and nmch frequented Inn, at the distanrte of one stage from Birmingham. 37^ RIDES AND WALKS Ui/iberslade Hall. About a mile from Hochley- House, is tJmberslade Hall, for many age5, the seat of the ancient and honorable family of the Archers. The first of this family who resi- ded here, was called by the Latin name of Robertus Sagittarius : and from him descended along and goodly race, almost all of whom were highly respectable for their private character ; and some of whom were greatly distin- guished by their public services, amongst the principal families of this county. In the reign of George II. Thomas Archer was created Lord Archer, Baron of Umherslade. His Lordship was succeeded by his son Andrew, on whose decease in 177^? without male issue, the title became extinct. It is remarkable that this is the first instance of the failure of male issue in this family, for the space of more than 600 years. Umberslade Hall is a stone structure, erected by John Smith, about 150 years since; large, substantial, and handsome. It is of square form, with two wings, slightly projecting from the main body. In the centre of the western and principal front, is a grand portico, sup- ported by pillars of the Doric order, and surmounted by a bust of the Emperor, Titus Vespasian. In the southern front, is a similar portico, above which are the Family Arms, surrounded by military trophies. The interior, long neglected, and now entirely unfurnished and forsaken, still retains the marks of its former grandeur. The Hall, in particular, is a noble apartment; and two excellent statues, placed in niches, on each side the center door, one of yenus, and the other of Apollo, are stilf to be seen. Stretching round the mansion, in a wide circumfe- rence, is the Park, now converted to the common purposes of asriculture. At the edge of it, is a fine Obelisk, which forms a striking object from the windows of the house. ROUNn LEAMINGTON. 375 Hampton Grovt Furk, EXCURSION TO HENLEY-IN-ARDEN. Skirting the southern edge of the Race Course, a pretty good cross-road commences leading to this small town ten miles distant. About two miles, on the left, is Hampton-on-the^ Hill near which, is Grove Park, the seat of the Right Hon. Lord Dormer. So long ago as the reign of Edward in. this place was known by the appellation of " La Graver and the beautiful wood scenery, by which it is surrounded, still gives a propriety to the name. Tlie house is spacious, and has all the venerable appearance of anti- quity. Till lately it was encompassed by a moat, and entered over a drawbridge ; but these, no longer neces- sary as means of security, have given place to recent im- provements, which modern taste has suggested with- out offering however, too much violence to the ancient character, which properly belongs to it. Within, are iT^any commodious, and some handsome apartments ; and among the paintings which adorn them, is one, a Sea-piece, sun-set, by Claude Lorraine, of great value. Finely shaded behind from the front, a delightful prospect opens over the undulating surface of the park ; enlivened by herds of deer ; richly stored with wood ; greatly orna- mented by a spread of water; and commanding, through the opening glades, a pleasing distant view of the town and castle of IVaricich. Adjoining the mansion, is a do- mestic Chapel ; where divine worship is celebrated, ac- cording to the forms of the Romish Church, to which the noble proprietor conscientiously and devoutly adheres. About six miles from IFarwick, is Clavevdoii, a small village, formerly distinguished as the seat of Thomas 376 RIDES AND WALKS Clurerdon Preston Baiiot Wootton Woven. Spencer, Esq. a branch of the honourable family of the Spencers, of Althorpe, Northamptonshire ; since ennobled by the title of Earl Spencer. In a spacious mansion, erected by himself, this gentleman long resided ; and, " for the hospitality he kept in it," says Dugdale, " was considered as the miiTor of the county." He died 1580; and on the north side of the chancel, in the village Church, is a stately monument, consecrated to his memoiy. It is an altar tomb, on which is a sarcophagus, placed under an arch, supported by Ionic pillars, and surmounted by a grand atchievement, exhibiting the arms of the Spencers, and of the families connected with them, in quarterings. On the front of the tomb are the same arms single. At a short distance from Claverdon^ to the right, some remains of Pinley Ahhey are still to be seen. It was established shortly after the Conquest, and continued till the Dissolu- tion. The iiiiiis were of the Benedictine Order, but their number was never large. Two nules beyond Claverdon to the right is the rural village of Preston Bagot which latter name it received from Ingram Bagot, to whom it was granted by William, Earl of Warwich, in the reign of Henry II. and to the left is Wootton IVaven, formerly a very exten- sive parish, in which is the handsome seat of Lady Smythe. It is a stone building, of square form, with a good front ; and contains a suite of apartments, elegantly fitted up, and splendidly furnished. The house was origi- nally built by Sir Charles Smythe, created Baron Carrington of IVootton, by Charles II. in lGl3; which title became extinct in I705. In one of the principal apartments, is a good whole-length portrait of Lord Car- rington, in his robes of office, as Chhf Baron of the Exchequer. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 377 Beaudesert Ancient Castle of De Montfort. At Wbotton-lVaven, which owes its second name to one of its possessors before the Norman Conquest, was a small Benedictine Priory, belonging to the Ahhey of Conches, in Normandy. Of these "alien priories" few were permitted to be established in England ; and these few were always regarded wiih suspicion by a nation, ever jealous of foreign influence. Under many discouraging circumstances, the Priory of Wootton subsisted ; till, so early as the reign of Henry Y I., it was dissolved. . Approaching Henley in the immediate vicinity of it is Beaudesert of which, the church is a very ancient structure; and shews some interesting I'emains of Saxon ar- chitecture, especially in its eastern window. In ages long past, this place was noticed for a large and strongly fortified Castle; which, from its pleasant situation, obtained the French appellation of Beldesert. It was erected soon after the Conquest, by Thurstane de Montfort, one of the great Norman Barons ; who, by their power and ambition, rendered themselves so formidable, especially in the reigns of King John and Henry III. During the latter reign, Peter de Montfort, the fourth, and the most considerable of his family, united with the famous Earl of Leicester,* and other Barons, who took arms against the royal authority ; and at length, " by the pro- visions of Oxford," assumed to themselves ail the powers of government. Though afterwards taken prisoner, with his son, at the storming of Northampton ; yet he still ad- hered, in every variety of fortune, to the confederated Lords. With them, he triumphed at the battle of Lewes, when the King was defeated, and in effect dethroned : and with them, finally, he shared in the dreadful conflict of Evesham * Kis name wa- also De Monxfoht, bm lie was of a diUVrein liimiiy. 3 B 378 RIDES AND WALKS n "" I ' " l.l.! ! i. ' L - J -II- .' " < I .1 t- LJJl Biographical notice of TUchard Jago, f^ale, when, with so many others, he paid the forfeit of his ambition with his hfe. From that time, the power and prosperity of his family began to decline ; their castlie at Beaudesert w^as gradually neglected ; and, in the wars of the two Roses, was finally destroyed. No traces of it can now be found, except only of the vast moat, carried round the eminence, on which it was proudly seated. . From the dazzling view of aspiring ambition, w^hich so often disturbs, for no public good, the public order and peace, it is delightful to descend to the contemplation of the less splendid, but more real and solid worth, which ensures the happiness of private life. Beau- desert has the honor of giving birth to Richard Jagg, an amiable man, an exemplary clergyman, and a good though not a great poet. Jle was born while his father was Rector of this parish ; and his educa- tion, begun at Solihull Grammar School, was completed at University College, Oxford. He was married twice ; and by his first wife he had three sons, who died before him, and four daughters, of whom, three survived him. He was happy, in the kind notice of several distinguished persons, in the friendship of Shenstone, and in the patronage of Lord WiLLOUGHBY DE Broke. To tliis excellent nobleman, he was indebted for his first preferment, the living of Ches- terton ; and for his last and greatest, that of Kilmcote, in Leicestershire. He had also the Vicarage of Snitterjield, which was given him by Dr. Maddox, Bishop of JVorces- ier ; and, in this pleasant village, he passed the greater juiit of his life. Here he preached, and wrote; and here, at tbe age of 6'5, May 8, 1781? he died. His works are "Edge HdV a poem in blank verse, to which, frequent rrfemice has been made in the course of these pages ; and ROUND LEAMINGTON. 379 Henley-in-Arden The Church Old Cross. several smaller pieces, of which, the chief are ''The Black- birds;' " The Swallows" and " The Goldfinches" In these, considerable poetic merit is displayed, sufficient to establish his claim to a respectable place, among the minor poets i Henley-in-Arden is a small town, situated on the great road from Birmingham to Oxford. Its nanie, according to Dugdale, is derived from hean, which sig- nifies in. the old English, high, and ley, a place. For the privilege of holding a w^eekly market, and an annual fair, it was originally indebted to its early and powerful patrons, the De Montforts ; and in the fall of that great family, at the battle of Evesham, its rising prosperity received a severe check. Towards the end of the succeeding reign, however, it rose to considerable consequence, and was term- ed a Borough. In the reign of Edward III. a plan for paving the town was formed ; and the right of taking toll upon certain vendible commodities obtained, in order to defray the expense. In the same reign, the church was erected by the inhabitants at their own expense ; who had long felt serious inconvenience from the distance of the parish church, which was at Wootton-lVaven. It is a good country church. In the reign of Henry VI. a hos- pital, for the reception of poor people and strangers, was erected ; of which no traces remain. In the market jdace, the shaft of an old cross is still to be seen ; but the em- bellishments, which surmounted it, are so mutilated as to be no longer discernible. The population of Henley, ex- ceeds one thousand. EXCURSION TO HARWOOD's HOUSE AND GAYDON INN. This road commencing opposite to the New Bridge is pleasingly shaded, to the right, for more than 3 B 2 3S0 RIDES AND WALKS HarzcooiTs Hunse Roman Fosie Roman Camp. a mile, by the noble plantations of fVarwick Park : and in the descent, between two gentle hills, a delightful view is caught, over the beautiful lake, into the Park itself. A little further, are the scanty remains of a small hamlet, belonging to Tachhrohe, called Asj)s. About four miles from fVarwich, is OaMey ll'ood: and, two beyond, is Har- wooiTs House, a small solitary Inn. It stands on the great Roman fosse-way, so often mentioned before, which inter- sects the whole county, from north-east to south-west ; and which here crosses, at right angles, the turnpike road. About half a mile, along the fosse, to the left, are the striking remains of a castramentation, of square form, and of great extent, supposed to be of Roman con- struction. This, indeed, is sufficiently proved, first, fi-om the name of Chesterton, a village near it, so obviously derived from the Latin castrum ; next, from its situation, immediately on the fosse-way, where stations were usually established ; and above all, from the discovery of Roman coins, which has been occasionally made within its pre- cincts. As it stands at nearly an equal distance from High Cross, Leicestershire, and Alcester, in this county^ it was, probably, an intermediate station between them. IVariL'ich, it is tiiie, is in a more direct line : but it is extremely doubtful whether that town was ever a Roman station at all; and the close vicinity of Chesterton to the fosse-way, may well be supposed to have obtained for it the preference, notwithstanding its greater distance. At Chesterton, from the reign of Edward III. through a long succession of ages, were seated the wealthy and honorable family of Peyto. Of this family, some dis- tinguibhed themselves in the profession of arms ; others in ROUxND LEAMINGTON. 381 Chesterton Family of Pei/to Manor House. that of Law; and one rose to high honors in the Church. This last was Peter Peyto, who, in the reign of Henry VIIL was created a Cardinal ; and was confessor to his daughter, afterwards Queen Mary. During her reign, he was appointed by Pope Paulus IIL his lega+e at her C0urt, in the room of the famous Cardinal Pole, who had displeased him. Secure, however, in the favor of his royal mistress, Pole refused obedience to the papal man- date ; and when Peyto arrived off the English coast, in- vested with his new dignity, he was forbidden to land. Retiring thence, in high disgust^, to France, within a short time, he died. In the reign of Edward IV. the manor house of Chesterton was rebuilt in a good style, by Sir William Peyto. The hall in particular, seems to have been a noble room ; and its windows were richly adorned with painted glass, representing the armorial bearings of the Peyto, and other families connected with it of whicl}, engravings are preserved in Dugdale. To this ancient part, a gi-and suite of apartments was added, by Sir Edward Peyto, under the direction of the celebrated Inigo Jones, about the year l630. But the whole struc- ture was taken down, a few years ago, by order of Lord WiLLOUGHBY DE Broke, to wliom tlie estate, in right of his maternal ancestors, descended. Part of a garden wall, and a gateway, overhung with ivy, form the sole and the melancholy remains of this once spacious and splendid mansion. Near this forlorn forsaken spot, stands the villa^^e clmrch, of moderate size and antique appearance. Over the priucipal entrance, are several figures, placed in niclies. 382 RIDES AND WALKS Cheiterton Church Anecdote of John Lacv. much mutilated, but still shewing remains of fine sculpture. Within, are three stately monuments, consecrated to the memory of Humphrey, William, and Edward Peyton father, son, and grandson, and of their wives, who all lived and died between the reigns of Elizabeth and Charles IL Of these monuments, the first is an altar tomb, on which are placed the figures of Sir Humphrey and his Lady, in recumbent postures, with hands elevated, and each clasping a book ; the one habited in the armour, the other in the usual female dress, of the times. In two compartments, above, fixed against the wall, are the figxires of their chil- dren, six sons and four daughters. The upper cornice, and the front and sides of the tomb, are adorned wath nu- merous armorial bearings. The two other monuments, formed of black and white marble, imposing in appear- ance, but heavy and tasteless in design, consist of a kind of sarcophagus, on which two busts are placed, standing in a recess, supported by pillars, the one of Corinthian, the other of no regular order. With the histoi-y of Chesterton Churckf an anec- dote connects itself, too interesting to be omitted, even in these slight sketches. John Lacy, vicar of the parish, in the reign of Henry V. was indicted, on the charge " of receiving and harbouring" that early, enlightened and in- trepid reformer, the virtuous and high-minded. Lord CoBHAM ;* who had been convicted of the pretended crime of heresy ; but had happily effected, for that time, his escape from the fangs of his barbarous and bloody perse- cutors. Justly appreciating, no doubt, the pure integrity. * See b Porirait of tliis accomplished Nobleman, this illustriouj mattyr to tlie great cause of Chiiitiau irulb, spiriicdiv drawn aud beautifully coloured, in " Gilpin's Liiet of the litfoimcrs.'' ROUND LEAMINGTON. 383 eeaeggg ' '" "...". Windmill built by Inigo Jones Gaydon. the heroic firmness, and the many shining qualities of the truly noble Confessor, whatever he might think of his religious opinions, the good Vicar hesitated not to offer that shelter from the impending storm, which either his own habitation, or the retired cots and shades of Chesterton might afford regardless of the risk to himself, great and terrible as, in those times of ferocious bigotry, it was. For this noble act of generous compassion, who is not glad to find that he obtained, even in that age, " pardon/* under the king's letters patent ? and who would not re- joice, if he could but have looked into distant futurity ? when he might have claimed, and would have received, from the whole Christian and civilized world, instead of pardon, high admiration and applause ! But far higher praise there is which he could, and, no doubt, did con- template in comparison of which all other is worthless ! On the summit of a hill, near Chesterton, stands a large stone ff^lndmill, erected, in l632, by Sir Edward Peyto, and justly an object of curiosity, as it was built after a design of Inigo Jones. Without the fliers, the mill, which is of a circular form, would resemble a large temple, of no graceful symmetry. The body is supported by six arches, with pilaster capitals ; and beneath them, by ordinary wooden stairs, is the ascent to the interior. The mill is surmounted by a leaden dome, which revolves for the purpose of shifting the fliers afllixed to it, as the stale of the wind requires. From this hill the view is rich and extensive ; the towers of IVarivkk^ and the spires of Coventry, forming characteristic objects. Beyond Har wood's House, at the distance of four miles, is Gay don, where is another small solitary Inn. 384 RIDES AND WALKS I'achbrook Mallory Manor House, RIDE THROUGH BISHOP S-TACHBROOK TO BARFORD. None of all the shorter excursions from Warwichj is more delightful than this, leading through one of the richest and most fertile tracts, perhaps, in the whole coun- ty. Commencing opposite the Neiv Bridge the road hear? off, to the left, at the first turnpike-^a little beyond which, from a rising ground, is seen one of the fine nearer views of the town and castle of JVarwiehi already noticed.* Closely adjoining Bishop' s-Tachhrohe, is Tach- hrole-Mallori/ ; of which the common name is derived, according to Dugdale, from the little stream, that flows between them; and the distinguishing adjuncts, from their two early possessors who were the Bishops of Lichjield and Coventrifj about the period of the Norman Conquest ; and the family of Mallory, first settled here, in the reign of Henry I. At this latter place is the Manor House ; an ancient edifice, and still capacious, though some parts of its buildings were taken down, a few years ago. Here was seated, in the reign of Charles I. the family of the Wag- KTAFFES; from whom, by the marriage of a female heiress, the estate passed into the possession of the Bagots ; since ennobled, by the title of Baron Bagof, of BUthfield, Staf- fordshire. It has lately become, by purchase, the property of the Earl of JVarwich. Striking remains of the ma- jestic woods, by which this mansion was formerly sur- rounded, are still to be seen in some large and stately trees, particularly limes and chesnuts, which still fondly cling to the soil Avhere they have, for ages, stood and flourished. StE Page 67. ROUND LEAMINGTON. S85 Bishop's Tachhrook Church Parsonage School. Bishop's Tachbrook is a small, scattered, plea- singly sequestered village; occupying a situation, that might almost be termed romantic, on ground strikingly diversified, amid fields that smile with fertility, and trees and groves, that spread their sheltering arms, and deepen- ing shades all about. " 'I'he church, that tops the neigh- bouring hill," " the preacher's modest mansion," " the school house," with its pleasant garden, " the sheltered cot," the comfortable " farm-house," " the little Inn," and " the glassy brook, reflecting the day " might easily remind one of Goldsmith's village sweet Auburn I before it \\?iS deserted. The church is, indeed, more than " decent ;" it is an interesting and venerable structure ; of some con- siderable dignity in size and exterior appearance, and coin- modiously, and handsomely fitted up within. It is of Saxon or early Aor?nan architecture ; and consists of a strong square tower at the west end, a spacious and lofty nave, two aisles, and a chancel. The buttresses are large and massy, especially those that give support to the side walls. At the east end, is an old cross ; and, on the north side, may be seen the Saxon arch of a doorway, now filled up. The nave is divided from the two aisles, by plain round pillars, supporting three pointed arches ; above which, in the clere-story, is a range of antique windows. The chancel is of good size, and has a large modern win- dow; which, however, as well as two or three other modern windows, little Jiarmonizes with the general air of this ancient fabric. The slate covering and the smooth plastering of this part are, also, deductions from its pic- turesque beauty. In the chancel, are three stately monu- ments, erected to the memory of John Wagstaffe and Combe Wagstaffe, Esqrs. who both died in the reign of Chari.es II. and of Sir Thomas Wagstaffe, Knight, son 3 c 385 RIDES AND WALKS Aloniiments tn Tuchbrooh Clivich Jiond to Barfotd. of the former nnd cousin of the latter, who died in 1708. It was liis daughter, and sole heiress, who was married to Sir Edward Bagot, father of Walter, the first Lord Bagot. These three monuments consist of marble tablets, two of large size, placed in a slight recess, supported by pillars ; and are more remarkable for provision of orna- ment, and splendour of appearance, than correctness of taste. Near the altar is a small tablet, which records the unfortunate death of Walter, son of the Rev. W. Bagot, who was drowned by the oversetting of a pleasure boat, in the Avon, near JVarivich Castle * 1800. In the north aisle, is another tablet, commemorating the name and honors of John Rous, Esq. second son of Sir John Rous, Bart, who was member for IVarwich, in the famous con- vention parliament, which restored Charles II. to the. throne, and who died in 1686. In the body of the church, are, also, several monumental inscriptions one, in Latin, dedicated to the memory of Dr. Lander, formerly a physician, at JVaricick and two or three to the memory of some of the family of Savage, once of much consi- deration in this village. The road from Tachhrooh, in the way to Barford, soon falls into the Gai/don road leaving which, and passing througli a gate, nearly opposite the Asps House, it bends in a fine circuit, through cultivated fields, round the beautiful plantations of l^'arwick Park, which extend almost to the entrance into Barjord. Barford is a considerable village, adorned with .several large and handsome houses. The first of these, at ROUND LEAMINGTON. 387 Barf or d Fine View. the north-eastern iextremity, is the seat of Charles Mills, Esq. M. P. Though somewhat irregularly built, it is a spacious and elegant mansion ; surrounded with extensive and flourishing plantations, laid out, with great taste, by Mr. Haverfield ; and seated on a delightful eminence, which, for the rich and beautiful prospect, it commands, is almost unrivalled, in this county. It looks over the fertile vale, through which the Avon winds along ; whose course is here seen, in considerable length, appearing and disappearing at intervals ; and whose banks are clothed, to a great distance, on every side, with a profusion of rich wood scenery. In various directions, pleasing distances are caught, and agreeable objects discovered. But especially towards the right the town and the church of War- wick, and the towers and battlements of the Castle with its Gothic green-house, placed distinctly in view every where interspersed and shaded with wood the ground in front finely opening and swelling and the noble groves of the park forming a rich side-screen present a charming landscape. Encircling and bounding the whole view, is a range of verdant hills, melting iQto the wide horizon above, and gently sinking into the vale below. But though eminently rich and beautiful, in its detached parts this prospect is rather to be admired as an assemblage of pleasing pictures, than as one grand and well united whole. The near ground, also, imme- diately opposite the back-front of the house, is too much crowded almost, indeed, shut in with trees ; check- ing the view, and mocking the eye, which impatiently longs to penetrate the interposing shade. The judicious application of the axe, in removing these obstructions would add greatly to the charms of this highly captivating scene. 3 c 2 388 RIDES AND WALKS Barford CInirch Parsona"e House. OppostTE the church, is Barford House, the resi- dence of John Whitehead, Esq. ; and immediately ad- joining it, is the Parsonage House, most delightfully and elegantly rural. The church itself is a pleasing structure, well fitted up, with a side aisle, lately built ; and a hand- some chancel, rising two or three steps above the body of the church ; in which are several monumental tablets, par- ticularly one, consecrated to the memory of the Rev. J. Mills, father of the present vicar of the parish, and of the present member for IVarwick. At the southern extremity of the village, are twa or three good houses, and one large and extremely hand- some, which has long been unoccupied though not surely from the want of attractions, since it is said to be as com- modiously arranged and fitted up within, as it is elegantly finished without. From BarforiU on the return to TVarwicli, through Longhridge, the distance is about two miles. EXCURSION TO OFFCHURCH AND SOUTHAAf. From Leamington, a good road, through a rich pleasant country, leads to Southam 8 miles. Commenc- ing^ from the eastern extremity of the village, the road follows for some way the course of the Learn, which gen- tly winds through the meadows, at a small distance, to the left. The rising grounds, beyond, present a rich dis- play of wood-scenery; amidst which, strikingly disclosed to view, is the beautiful seat of the Rev. E. Willes ; and, near it, a good substantial farm-house. To the right is seen the long strait line of the Napion Canal a\ hose lec- tilinear angular course, sharp parallel edges, and naked ROUND LEAMINGTON. 38c^ Radford Hall The Church The Vilfa<re. unadorned banks, form the strongest possible contrast, as Gilpin justly remarks, with all the picturesque beauties of a natural river. Crossing a stone bridge over a small sti'eam, run- ning into the Learn, succeeded by another over the Canal Radford Hall appears to view. It is a good old manor- house, occupying an elevated situation, commanding views of some extent. Near it, is the rural church of Radford; and, a little beyond it, is the villagp. Here, in a small house, fitted up in a style, singularly fanciful, is the occa- sional residence of H. G. Lewis, Esq. of Malvern Hall^ near SoUhuU ; to whom much of the land in the vicinity belongs. This village, to distinguish it from another near Coventry, is called by the two names of Radford Semele the first borrowed from its situation on the ford of a mall rivulet, through which the road passed ; and the second, from one of its early possessors, the fiimilv of De Semely, who first settled here in the reigu of Henry I. About a mile to the left of Radford, is Offdiurch Bury, the seat of the late John Wightwick Knigiitley, Esq. which is said to derive its name from Offa, Kin^ of the Mercians, one of the greatest and most powerful Princes of the Saxon Heptarchy distinguished, not onlv as a bold and successful warrior, but also as a wise and able governor honored by the friendship and alliance of Charlemagne but deeply disgraced by the trcaclierous murder of Ethelbert, Khig of the East- Angles,* whoso dominions he instantly seized and annexed to hi-, own. SfC !MiLi;;.v's History of England. Hl.MF. Il.ii'iy. 390 RIDES AND WALKS Offchurch Bury, Here, as Dugdale bellevedj stood the ancient palace,* in which the great Mercian monarch held his rural court : and here, as Camden affirms, was inten'ed the good and valiant Fremundls, son of Offa, who was surprised and basely assassinated, in the fluids near Harhurxji If this is, for the most part, traditional history ; there are authen- tic records to prove, that Offchurch, in the time of Ed- ward the Confessor, was the property of Earl Leo* FRic ; that it was offered by him, as a pious donation, to the rich monks oi Coventry ; and that it continued in their possession, till the general Dissolution. At that period, bv letters patent, in the 34th of Henry VIII. it was granted to Sir Edward Knightlev, Knight; and in his descendants of the female line, who have assumed his name, the inheritance still remains. Offchurch Bury, is a large, irregular, ancient, and venerable pile ; and though some parts are of considerably later date than others, the general character of antique gran- deur prevails. The situation is low ; the scene calm and sequestered ; deep and solemn, yet pleasing, is the air of retirement and repose that reigns around. Near the man- sion are some small pieces of water ; and, just before its Gothic entrance, is the great chesnut tree, so much an object of curiosity. Though a single tree, even at a small distance, it has all the appearance of a considerable cluster : and, though rising only to a moderate height, it throws its large umbrageous arms, in a wide circumference, over an immense space forming a sort of vast verdant canopy, capable of covering and concealing, it is said, three hun- dred persons. Adjoining the House is the extensive Park, well shaded with trees, some of large size and noble form. Ihe word " Bcrtye^" says Ducdalk, sigiiiCe* :io less than burgns or curii.'' ROUND LEAMINGTON. 391 Village of Offcliurch JJfton Stoney-Thorpe. The village of OffcJmrch, about half a mile distant, is sweetly retired and rural ; the ground pleasingly broken ; the landscape beautifully wooded. The church is a good structure, seated on a fine eminence^ commanding extended views. Near it is the handsome Parsonage House j sur- rounded with its delightful pleasure grounds, conspicuously touched, in every part, by the hand of taste and elegance. The lover of picturesque objects will admire the cottage School-house ; and the man of enlightened benevolence will contemplate, with pleasure, the little village seminary^ conducted, under excellent superintendence, within. Proceeding from Radford at the bottom of a steep descent, near the fifth mile, the turnpike road is intersected by the great Roman Fosse, so often mentioned before. From this point, at the distance of little more than two miles, along the Fosse, to the right, is the Roman encampment, near Chesterton. About the seventh mile, elevated on its rocky eminence, and shaded by its extensive woods, is Ufton ; a scanty village, so called, says Dugdale, from Ulfe, one of its Saxon possessors. The road winds close round the little village church yard, filled with its humble memorials of mortality standing forward to the passing view as if urgent to press their solemn mementos on the notice even of the anxiously busy or the thoughtless- ly gay ^as they rush eagerly or carelessly by. Near the 8th mile is Stoney -Thorpe, the seat of Mrs. FAuauiER now reduced to a single mansion though once, as the old English word Thorpe signifies, a village situated, as its name, also, designates, on a rocky soil. One mile beyond is Southam. SouTHAM is a small market town, stationed at nearly equal distances from JVarwich, Daventrij, Coventry, and 302 RIDES AND WALKS To !>ontliui)i Ld'uiiiton btuckJown. Bavhurif: and, to the traffic, on these four roads, it chiefljr owes the little trade, it possesses. There are one or two good Inns, and several handsome houses. The church is a spacious and venerable Gothic structure, givini^ conse- quence to the place. A good parsonage-house adjoins. 'I'he weekly market is inconsiderable ; but one large well- attended fair is here held annually, in the month of May. EXCURSION BY STONLEIGH TO COVENTRY. This road from Lenniington leads through rural lanes; adorned, on each side, by a broad irregular border of grass ; screened by hedge rows, wildly-growing, abound- ing with honey-suckles and other creeping plants ; and overshadcd with fine oaks and other trees profusely scat- tered about, or formed into little clusters ; and, near Ston- ieigh, uniting and spreading into nol)le and extensive woods. Few, except very confined views, occur ; which arc fre- (jucntly caught, through the arms or boles of the trees, into the rich and cultivated fields, immediately adjacent ; and, occasionally, into little woody recesses^ pleasingly interspersed. Aboi'T a mile from Leamington leaving on the rluht, the villasrc and the church of LHUnnton the road bends to the left, and the r^ual gravelly soil changes, for a j-hort space, into sand. Here the ground ascends, and a prospect of some extent, but no great interest, ojiens over a flat tame tract of corn and pasture land terminated, however, by a striking distant vicw^ of IFarwich Church and the tower> of the Castle. On the descent from this sandy eminence, passing one little lonely cot, Blackihwn JMill appear'i ; and, a little beyond, ClusJ'ord Bridge ; stretching wilh three arches, over the Avon. Ibis mill ROUND LEAMINGTON. 393 "^ ^ i^ Chesford Bridge Approach to Stoneleigh Abbey. belonged, so early as the reign of Edward I. to the monks of Combe Abbey, ten miles distant ; upon whom was imposed the expense of keeping the bridge in repair ; as appears from the report of a trial held, in the reign of Edward III. between the inhabitants of Kenilworth and other neighbouring villages, on one side, and the Abbot of Combe, on the other. The same obligation of repairing still rests with the present possessor of Combe Abbey, the Earl of Craven. Till lately, this ancient Bridge was a fine pictu- resque object. The arches and buttresses were pleasingly shaded, in large irregular masses, with ivy ; the joinings and small fissures overgroAvn with moss or lichen ; and the smooth surface roughened, or, in parts, broken, by the moulderings or injuries of time, and deeply tinged by the discolouring hues of age, or the streaming marks of weather-stains. But of all these beauties, in the pictu- resque eye, it is now stript, by the unsparing chisel of the mason, employed lately in some necessary repairs. The scenery about it, is, however, still beautiful. On each side, in a fine bend, the river is seen, working its quiet way; the ground, on one of its banks, rising, is richly adorned with hanging wood, and sinking on the other, spreads into oft and luxuriant meadows. A little beyond Chesford Bridge where four ways meet turning to the right and soon afterwards into a newly-formed road, on the left, the vast and majestic woods, and the noble and spacious mansion, of Stoneleigh Abbey, gradually break, with impressive grandeur, on the eye. The more ancient part of this venerable pile was built on the site of the Old Abbey, by Sir Thomas Leigh, in the reisrn of Oueen Elizabeth, 3 D 394 RIDES AND WALKS Stoneleigh Abbey New Lodge New Bridge. forming three sides of a quadrangle. Tlie fourth side is occapied by another extensive and elevated structure, of S([uare forni, with a regular and handsome front of the Corinthian order, erected, about a century ago, by Thoma fourth Lord Leigh, after the design of Smith, architect of fVarwich. This splendid mansion occupies a situation, like so many other religious edifices of a similar kind, most felici- tously chosen, for all the purposes of devout or delightful retirement. Standing low, in the midst of bold acclivities, it is of course denied all the advantages of distant or ex- tensive views ; but it is richly recompensed in the charms of its own beautiful scenery of which some notice is in- tended hereafter. The new road, well laid out, by the present posses- sor of Stoneleigh Abheif, J. H. Leigh, Esq. extends about two miles in length ; and, nearly midway, a handsome stone lodge, with a spacious gateway, is now erecting ; leading to a noble Bridge, of one large elliptical arch intended to form the principal approach to the Ahhey. As this ap- proach is for the most part, from higher to lower ground, it is evident that some art will be necessary to prevent the dim^ni^bing effect of loohing down upon an object in itself so grand and imposing. For this reason, the new bridge, when nearly completed, was found to rise too high ; and the central part was taken down and lowered, at a great expense. Perhaps, in happy eflfect, the former approach, from Ashow, will scarcely be exceeded ; Mhicb, wind- ing through lofty woods, amidst a prodigalily of shade, utterly excluded all view of the main edifice, till des- cending to a level, even somewhat below it, the stately mansion was at once submitted, in all its magnificence, to the surprised and delighted gaze. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 395 Stoneleigh Village Aims-Houses Church. At the termination of the new road, another on the left, leads to the village of Stoneleigh situated in a quiet and delicious retreat, " looking tranquillity " on ground charmingly diversified, and profusely wooded. It is particularly distinguished by a range of alms-houses, uniformly and substantially built of stone, for five men, and five women, unmarried. They were founded by Alice, the lady of Sir Thomas Leigh, Lord Mayor of London, at the time of Queen Elizabeth's accession. The objects of this charity were to be nominated, in the first instance, by herself; and, afterwards, by her heirs. Near the church, is the Parsonage-house, fitted up in a pleasing style of rural elegance, with delightful pleasure grounds adjoining. The church is a large old goihic stnicture; of Saxon or early Norman architecture. Striking speci- mens are here to be seen of the round arches of the former, and the pointed windows of the latter. I'he tower, some- what irregular in its structure, and richly mantled with ivy, presents a fine picturesque object. The nave is spacious and lofty, and is furnished with one side aisle ; but the look of the whole interior is dreary and desolate, owing chiefly to the ruinous state of the pews. A plan for new'pewing, and it is to be hoped, also for new-flooring, is said to be in contemplation. Near the chancel, i a good vestry, built over the vault of the Leigh family ; and within it, are three monuments consecrated to the me- mory of several of that truly excellent and honorable family distinguished, from age to age, for benevolence, as boundless as their immense wealth. Two of these, are plain marble tablets: one simply records the name of Edward, fifth and last Lord Leigh, born 1742, died l/sG ; the other portrays not very elegantly, and rather feebly, the great and amiable virtues oFthe Hon. Mary Leigh, his 3 D 2 396 RIDES AND WALKS Monuments of the Leigh Family, in Stoneleigh Church. sister and sole heiress, who died July 2, 1 8o6, at the age of 70. The third is the stately marhle monument, erected by herself, of Alicia Dutchess Dudley, and of her daughter Alicia. On altar tombs, in recumbent postures, are the effigies of the deceased ; that of the mother, eleva- ted high above, and that of the daughter, reclining imme- diately below. Over the whole, is spread a vast heavy black canopy, with white drapery underneath, supported by very small Ionic pillars, placed on very large double pedestals. Above the canopy, is the ducal coronet ; and on the facings, are the armorial bearings. Between the pillars, a pair of little angels is introduced, raising up the drapery, disclosing to view, the person of the Dutchess: and, at the same time, blowing the trumpet of Iier fame. As this monument was erected by herself, it may be candidly presu- med, that at least this ingenious allegorical eulogy, was added after her decease, by some of her surviving friends or admirers. Though she possessed leal and great merit, one would rather it should be proclaimed abroad by any but herself. It must, indeed, be confessed, that the whole monument is a singular specimen of splendour without taste, and of massy bulkiness without the smallest pretension to elegance of design, or proportion of parts. Alicia Dutchess Dudley was the grand-daughter of Sir Thomas Leigh, Lord Mayor of London^ and the first of the family seated at Stoneleigh Abbey. Her father, the second son of Sir Thomas, created a Baronet by King James, was married to Catherine, daughter of Sir John Spencer, of IVormleigliton ; and, of this marriage, she was the third daughter. In the latter end of Queen Eli- zabeth's reign, she Was married to Sir Hohert Dudley, the natural sow of tlic famous Earl of Leicester^ by Lady ROUND LEAMINGTON. 397 Biographical notice of Alicia Dutchess Dudley. Douglas Sheffield.* With all the advantages of a fine person, Sir Robert possessed splendid talents; and attain- ed to high distinction, in all the usual learning and accom- plishments of the age. He excelled, particularly, in ma- thematical science ; and, amongst other manly exercises, was famed for his skill in riding the great horse. Many years after his father's death, he endeavoured to establish the legitimacy of his birth, by proving a secret marriage. Legal inquiry took place ; but was interrupted, by a sud- den order from the Star-Chamher Court; all the writ- ten depositions were sealed up ; and no copies allowed to be taken, without the King's special licence. Sir Robert afterwards went abroad, and never returned. He was accompanied by a lady, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Robert Southwell ; whom he at length married, by dispensation from the Pope ; though his wife, Alicia, was still livinj?. He resided chiefly in Italy, and obtained great favour with the Duke of Tuscany ; and, also, with the Emperor, Ferdinand H. who conferred on him the title of Dulie of the Holy Roman Empire. Lady Alicia, thus deserted and dishonoured by her husband, still lived in Eng- land; revered for her pietv, and admired and loved for her active and extensive charity. She was possessed of several large estates, partly in her own right, and partly in that of her husband ; and stood so high in the esteem of Charles L that he was graciously pleased to grant her the style and dignity of a Dutchess, with the right of precedency to her daughters, as if they were the daughters of a Duke. She died January 22, 1G68, in the 90th year of her age ; and of five daughters, one only survived her. Lady Ca- therine Leveson, who inherited all the benevolence of her * See page 122. 398 RIDES AND WALKS Bagington Ancient Castle* mothers disposition, of which the Hospital of Balsall Temple^* remains a splendid monument. About a mile and a half from Stoneleigh pursuing the road to Coventry is, Bagington Hall ; seated on a boW eminence to the right ; con\manding extended and pleasing views ; among which, strikingly appears, in dis- tant prospect, Coventry, with its majestic spires, towering above, and its crowded buildings, stretching round, par- tially disclosed amidst the dark shading of trees. This place takes its name from Sir William Bagot, one of the favorites of the unhappy and misguided Richard II. ; who resided here in a Castle of which little remained, even in the time of Dugdale ; and which is now reduced to one solitary scanty piece of a wall, barely sufficient to fix the site of it. Here it was, that the Duke of Here- ford lodged before his intended rencounter with the Duke OF Norfolk, at Coventry ; and hence, on the appointed morn, be issued forth " armed at all points, and mounted on his white courser, barbed with blue and green velvet, gorgeously embroidered with swans and antelopes of Goldsmith's worh.""^ It is well known, that when the two champions met in the field of battle, fully accoutred, the contest was prohibited, by royal authority ; and both the combatants were banished. In the reign of James I. the Bagington Estate was purchased, by William Bromley, Esq. whose des- cendant, William Bromley, Esq. in the reign of Queen Anne, was several times Representative in Parliament for the County of' Warwick. In the 9th year of that reign, he Sep |a;ie IC.i. % Due dair. ROUND LEAMINGTON. 399 Bagington Ha H, built by Secretary Bromley Stivichall. was chosen Speaker of the House of Commons ; and was afterwards appointed one of Her Majesty's 'principal Secretaries of State. " He was a man of grave deportment and good morals," says Bishop Burnet * not here to be suspected of partiality, " but looked on as a violent Tory, and a great favourer of Jacobites." By him the present mansion was erected, in 1706 ; and the following circum- stance, relating to it, cannot without injustice be omitted; since it is equally honorable both to his memory, and to the liberal and grateful spirit, which so nobly characterizes the British nation. Whilst he was attending his duty, as Speaker of the House of Commons, the calamitous intel- ligence was brought that his seat at Bagington had just been accidentally destroyed by fire when, instantly a con- siderable sum was voted by Parliament, to defiay the ex- pense of rebuilding it. It is a spacious and handsome edifice, finished in the style of n>odern elegance. It is adorned by many good portraits, among which is one of Secretary Bromley, and several of his Family. In the large and well-chosen library, is a fine collection of Greek and Ro- man Classics. Here are preserved some curious original letters ; several, it is said, by Royal hands. Tlie present possessor of Bagington Hall, is Mrs. Price, a descendant of the Bromley Family. About one mile from Bagington, is Stivichall, adorned by the handsome seat of Francis Gregory, Esq. Near it is the parish church, newly-erected in a pleasing style. A little beyond, this road unites with the turnpike- road from Warwick to Coventry. IIi.<t'r^ cfhis. Giin Times, vol, i, page Ti4, Ed. 17J3. 400 RIDES AND WALKS The Walks The Holly Walk. Many of the nearer and even the more distant ex- cnrsions, enumerated in the preceding pages, under the head of " Rides round Leamington,'' will afford also delightful IValhSj especially to the well-practised pedestrian. But in the immediate vicinity, as it now remains to be slightly noticed, many inviting paths lie open ; and agreeable walks, of gi*eater or less extent, will be found in almost every direction : nor can the exercise of walking fail of yielding all its pleasing or beneficial effects, in a tract of country, fanned with the purest breezes of health, and adonied with some of the richest and most beautiful sce- nery of nature. He that loves the open, healthful air, and the easy, careless, frequent saunter, may wander through the fields and shady lanes of Leamington, in social converse, or solitary musing, and find all the gratification he seeks. And the lover of rural rambles the admirer of nature's charms, whether attired in sylvan pomp or rustic ease may pursue his devious way, from one attrac- tive point to another, till fatigue or satiety sends him back delighted to his home. Few of all the nearer walks, are considered as more agreeable than the Holly Walk ; so named, because embel- lished, amidst a rich profusion of other shade, with numerou-s holly trees, some of laiger size and more luxuriant growth, it is said, than in any other part of the kingdom. This walk is carried along tlie side of one of those rural lanes, " whose undressed simplicity and native charms," as the great Oracle* of picturesque beauty pronounces, " far ex- ceed the walks of the most finished garden." At the end * Gii.riN's Northern Te^ir, toI. 2, page "ii"^. ROUNI> LEAMINGTON. 4(U ' ' ' ! ~: ^ Fine Views from Neubold CotiitjH Hill Walk by Emscote to Warwick. ill - .. <<< ^., ' ..J.., | 1 J,. of this, a foot-path winds, through the fertile and sweetly sequestered meads beyond pursuing which, the hills of Newbold Comyn appear and gaining, by a gentle ascent, the lofty summit a fine extensive view opens, over a wide tract of the surrounding country. Jtadford, Offckurch, UJion Woods, Whitnash, Tachbrooh, and Warwick, are among the nearer objects; and, in the distance, are seen the Shuckburgh and the Edge Hills. Removing to another part of the same hilly range, more easterly, a striking view is obtained of the church and village of Leamington. The magnificent N^ew Baths grandly placed at the extremity of a broad spacious vista, opening and expanding into a beautiful foreground of velvet turf behind, darkly shaded by noble woods thence, spreading round into rich side screens would of themselves form a fine picture. Beyond, are seen Warwick Church, the towers and groves of Warwick Castle, and a wide extent of well-wooded and cultivated country, stretching on every side. Amongst other pleasing objects of little rural excursions about Leamington, may also be mentioned, Milverton, Lillington, and Cubbing ton, on one side ; and Whitnash and Tachbrook, on the other. The two coach roads to Warwick have been already noticed : but the pedestrian has a third choice, in the field-way by Emscote. This delightful walk after following, for . some space X\\q windings of the Learn descends into a little woody dell then crosses a small stream beyond which the ground suddenly rises and the path is pleasingly conducted along the edge of a steep bank, shaded with trees, and hung with clustering shrubs. Here a charming viev/ is seen to the left, of the little fertile vale below, watered bv its meanderina- river and 3 E 402 RIDES AND WALKS, &c. Walk hj/ the Ciinal to Waruick the Atfueduct. a fine prospect, before, gradually opening, of the town and castle of fVarwich. Still another variation of the walk to TVarwicJt, is, by following the course of the Canal ; which, though destitute of interest in itself, leads through a pleasant tract; and is recommended by one great object of curiosity in the noble Aqueduct, which conveys the water of the canal over the river Avon. This is a magnificent structure, ex- cellently built of stone ; extending, in length, 2l6feet; in breadth, 35; in heighth, 34. It is supported by three large circular arches, rising 21 feet above the level of the river. From this point, is seen on one side a pleasing rural landscape, formed by the wood, the water, the rock, and the meadows, the bridge, and the mill of Emscote in striking contrast with the grander view which the town and castle of JVarwich, its winding river, and its noble bridge, present on the other. Tlie walk along the canal, in the way to fVarwich, may be continued to any of the three bridges on the Emscote, the Coventry, or the Birmingham roads conducting into three different parts of the town. ^r^ ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 403 Kenilwarlh. CHAP. XXXIII. Kenilworth Coventry Stratford Charlecote Home Stoneleigh Ahbey. ^/\N account of several of the more interesting and im- portant places, in the neighbourhood of JVarwkk and Leamington, too long to be conveniently introduced in the preceding Chapter, has been reserved for the subject of the present. This small market town, with all the appearance of a rural village, extends more than a mile along the turn- pike road ; and, from its main street, sends out several collateral branches, of which one forms itself a consi- derable street. Near the center, the houses are built on the edge of a pleasing eminence, which circles round and incloses a charming vale, interspered with wood, and water- ed by a little winding stream forming an extensive and beautiful mid-space, between the opposite sides of this part of the town. On the descent into this vale, is* strikingly seen the ruined Gothic gate-way of its ancient monastery ; and a little beyond, towering above its solemn shades, appear the august niins of its noble and venerable castle. Most of the houses, in this as well as other parts, stand detached from each other ; many of them are large and handsome ; even the cottages have in general the look of superior 3 i: 2 4u4 ADJACENT TOWNS, &e. Foundation of Kenilworth Castle. neatness and comfort; and the whole air of the place is that of a genteel, as well as delightful residence. It is supposed, by Dugdale, tp derive its name from Kenulpk or Kenelm, one of its Saxon possessors, and " worthe" signifying a dwelling-place. For its right of holding a weekly market and an annual fair, it is indebted to the powerful interest of Robert Dudley, Earl of Essex, exerted soon after his grand entertainment given to the Queen, in the high day of his pride and prosperity. It has a considerable manufacture of combs, and another for the making of Prussian blue, Glauber salts, and Sal am- moniac, its population is about 23Q0. Tlie magnificent Castle of Kenilworth, once the proud defence and the splendid ornament, and still, even in its ruins, the glory of the place, traces back its origin to the beginning of the l?th century. There was a more an- cient castle still, situated on Holm Hill, nearer Stoneleigh: but this was destroyed so early as the time of Canute, the Dane. The present castle was founded, in the reign of Henry I. by Geofrey de Clinton, a man of mean origin, who raised himself, by extraordinary talents, to the high station of Chamberlain and Treasurer to the King, and afterwards of Lord Chief Justice of England. The Tower, called, not after himself, but by the popular appellation of Ctesars Tower, is the only part, built by him, which now remains ; and, for the transmission of his name to modern times, he is indebted solely to a little tract of verdant turf, at a small distance, which is still called Clinton-Green. In the posterity of the founder, the castle did not long continue ; but, within a few years after his death, whethei* by purchase or otherwise does not appear, it was transferred to the Crown. In the reign of ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 405 Siege of Kenilworth Castle. Henry III. it was granted to Simon de Montfort, the famous Earl of Leicester, by whom it was mnch enlarged and strengthened ; and, was in no long time afterwards, ungratefully made the strong hold of the discontented Barons of that turbulent age. Changed, it is well known, from the proud and potent favourite, into the daring and implacable foe, of his King, Simon de Montfort took up arms against him: and, at the head of the asso- ciated Baroiu, defeated him In the battle of Lewes. But in the following year, he was himself defeated and slain, in the dreadful battle of Evesham ; whence his son, and many of his adherents, who escaped the general slaughter, fled for refuge to Kenilworth Castle, and shut themselves up in it. Hence, however, young Montfort, still appre- hensive of danger, withdrew privately, and got safe to France ; leaving to Henry de Hastings, the government of the castle, which was then threatened, and soon after- wards closely besieged, by the royal forces. A most vigorous and valiant defence was maintained, for six months ; nor did the besieged surrender, till reduced to the last extremities of famine. It was during this siege, that the Dictum de Kenilworth was issued, enacting, with politic lenity ^' that all who took arms against the royal authority, instead of total disinherision, should forfeit the value of their lands for five years." Kenilworth Castle surrendered December 21, 1266: and was bestowed on Edmund, younger son of the King, afterwards created Earl of Leicester and Lancaster. At this castle, in the reign of the gallant Edward I. was held one of those assemblies, called Round Tables, consisting of a hundred knights and as many ladies , who were entertained with tilts and tournaments, in the morn- 406 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. Round Tabic ut Kenilworth CuslU Lancaster and Leicester Bui/divgs. ing, and dancing in the evening. It is mentioned, as ex- traordinary that the ladies wore silk, on this occasion. In the next reign, in consequence of the unsuccessful revolt of Thomas, son of Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, the castle was seized hy the Crown ; and Edward II. intended it for the place of his own secure, or retired residence. But that unfortunate monarch, instead of a palace, found in it a prison. For, here, after his forced abdication, he was held ia confineniont , uiid hence he was, at length, dragged away to Berkeley Castle, where he was basely and bar- barously murdered. In the reign of Edward III. tlie castle was restored to the family of the last possessor ; and, hy the marriage of a female heiress to John of Gaunt, it became the property of that Prince, afterwards created DuJic of Lancaster. By him large additions were made to the Castle, including most of the more ancient remaining part, which extends from Cwsai-^s Tower, in a wide compass, round to Leicester s Buildings : and these are still known by the name of Lancaster's Buildings. On his deatli, the castle descended to his son, afterwards Henry IV. and from this time, it continued in the possession of the Crown, till, in the reign of Elizabeth, it was granted to her favourite, Robert, Earl of Leicester. By this Earl, large additions were, also, made to the Castle, in the, buildings, which still bear his name ; and he is said to have expended in enlarging and adorning it, the enormous sum, in those days, of ^^6o,000. No event, in the history of this Castle, is more memorable than the magnificent and costly entertainment* given by him to his See Apper.dix, No, 15. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 407 - The Grand Entertainment at Kenilworlh Cnsile. royal mistress ; which lasted seventeen days, at the ex- pense of ^1000. a day. In the course of it, was intro- duced every amusement of the times; consisting, among the rest, of a grand Regatta on the lake ; and including the less elegant amusements of bear-baiting, boxing, tumbling, morrice-dancing, and running at the quinfin.* During this whole visit, in compliment to her majesty, the great clock, fixed against Ccesars Tower, was stopped : and the hand kept constantly pointing to two o'clock, the hour of banquet! After the death of Robert Earl of Leicester, 1588, Keniluorth Castle, with all its domains, descended to Sir Robert Dudley, his accomplished son, nicntioned-f- in the preceding chapter. But, by an infamous decree of that Court of Iniquity, the Sfar-Chamher, for a pre- tended act of contempt of the Ring's autliority, he was deprived of this noble inheritance ; which was then given to Henry, son of James I. That Prince, however, honorably declining to avail himself of the Star-Chamher decree, offered to purchase it but it was at a price far below its real value.;]: Of the price oft'ered no more than ^3000. was ever paid ; and even that sum was lost in the hands of a merchant, Avho failed. Thus unjustly obtained, on the decease of Prince Henry, Kenilwortk This ludicrous kind of tilting is tlius described ; Vo an upnglit post, was fixeil the figure of a man, niid t(j a ninving liorizonial beam iiiitfjiiallv divided, r<'|i]e>eiunig bis arms, was fixed a target, wiili a iiole in ilie raidrlle, at tbe sborler end, and a la'ge sw(,rd at tlie longer. Peisanis, monnted on carl liorses, ran full tilt at ihis figure, witii u pule or lance in ibcir hands; it tUey succeeded in striking llirongh liie hols of ilie laffjci, tliej tre aji- plauded ; but if ihey struck only llie lsi'i;et, ihe short arm <if the lever retiring, broiiglit round the wooden sword with sucli velocity as generally to untiaisc llie awkward a-tailant. t See Page 393. f On this gccRsIoi) a Snrvej of i!ie Es>a'e was taken, wblcli i'^ given in App. N',;. !3. 408 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. I '- I -.1.1 III I U I 1 ^ I iiii M Demolition of the Castle. Castle became the property of his brother, afterwards Charles I. ; and by him it was granted to Carey Earl of 3Ionmouth But the melancholy fate of this mighty and ma^ fcstic structure, for so many ages the seat of baronial and even royal grandeur, was now fast approaching. During the civil wars, it was seized by Cromwf.t.l, and given to some of his officers ; whose rapacious hands left it what it now is ! They dismantled the towers, beat down the walls, destroyed the park, tore up the woods, drained the lake, and divided and appropriated the lands. After the Restoration, the estate and the ruins of the Castle were granted, by Charles II. to Lawrence Hyde, second son of the celebrated Lord High Chancellor, created Baron of Kenilworth and Earl of Rochester : and, by the marriage of a female heiress, descended from him, it passed into the possession of Thomas Villiers, Baron Hyde, advanced, in 177^? to the dignity of Earl of Clarendon* To him, and to the present Earl, for their care in preserving this noble mass of niins from further dilapidation, the thank- ful acknowledgments are due of every lover of antiquarian remains, and every admirer of picturesque grandeur ! Kenilworth Castle, as it now appears, is a vast and magnificent pile of ruins, proudly seated on an elevated spot, extended round three sides of a spacious inner court exhibiting, in grand display, mouldering walls, dismantled towers, broken battlements, shattered staircases, and fragmoits, more or less perfect, of arches and windows, some highly ornamented and bcautifiil. Nor are the usual fine picturesque decorations wanting. The grey moss creeps over the surface of the stone, and the long spiiy ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 409 Ruins of Kenilworth Castle. grass waves on the heights of the ramparts : to the corners and cavities of the roofless chambers, cling the nestling shrubs ; whilst, with its deepening shades, the aged ivy ex- pands, in clustering masses, over the side-walls and but- tresses ; or spreads, in wild luxuriance, to the summits of the towers and higher buildings ; or hangs, in graceful fes- toons, from the tops of the arches and the tracery of the windows. The area, too, round which these stupendous remains of ancient baronial power and pride are scattered, now covered only with the vivid verdure of grass, and fre- quently grazed by groups of cattle or sheep, add much to the general effect ; which is still further heightened by the deafening noise and darkening flight of innumerable birds, hovering in the air, and haunting, as their undisputed right, the long forsaken walls : whilst imagination busied in contrasting images of past grandeur with present mourn- ful desolation gives its full impression^ to the awfal yet pleasing solemnity of the whole scene. " But, magnificent as these ruins are, they are not picturesque !" So pronounces the admirable writer,* whose opinions, on these subjects, are deservedly entitled to the profoundest respect who, with the magic power of a genius, has unlocked^ copious sources of new enjoyment, in contemplating the works of nature. " Neither the towers, nor any other part, nor the whole together," he remarks, *^ unless well aided by perspective, and the introduction of trees, to hide disgusting parts, would make a good pictured But, notwithstanding these pictorial defects, of which Ireland, also, and other artists have complained where Gilpin's Nonhern Tour, Vol. I. page 42. See Ills ingenious speculations on Picturesque Beauty, scattered througlioulliis Woiks. 3 F 410 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. Great Gate^wuy Luns 'rower Water Touer C4esar$ Tozcer, is the eye that owns not the powerful fascination, or the mind that feels not the solemn enchantment, oi the scene r Approaching the Castle over a spot, still calle(J after the name of its original founder, Clinton-Green the great Gate-way, huilt hy the Earl of Leicester, is pre- sented to view. This is a grand square structure ; through the center of which was formerly the principal entrance, hetween four turrets, under a lofty arch-way, now walled up. It is the most entire of the whole, and is inhahited hy a respectable farmer. On the ground floor are two rooms, one of which is wainscotted with the original oak, taken from Leicester's Buildings. Here is a curious chim- ney-piece, the upper part of carved Mood, the lower of alabaster ; exhibiting, amongst other decorations, the arms, the crest, the motto and the initials R. L. of the proud, prosperous, but unprincipled, and, therefore, surely we may add, wretched possessor of this once princely abode. Advancing towards the main niins, at some distance, to the left, are seen, scattered fragments of this extensive edifice, which included within its walled court, seven acres. On this side, at the corner, is Litn's Tower ; near it, are the Stables; beyond which is the IFater Tower ; succeeded by a massy wall, in which is a considerable apartment. Crossing the base-court and bending to tlie rii^ht, the inner court appears now thrown oj^en, l)y the total demolition of two buildings, called A7/;^ Ilenn/s Lod^inns and Sir Robert Dudleys Lobby, which extended from Leicester's Buildings iowanh Cwsars Tower ; completing the quadrangle, leaving only space for the gate-way en- trance. The vast square building, called Civsars Tower, is the most ancient, as well as the strongest and most per- ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 411 Kitchens Great Hall White-Hall Presence Chamber Privy Chamber. feet part f the castle. In some places, the walls are sixteen feet thick. Three sides still remain ; the fourth was destroyed, by Cromwell's officers. The interior seems to have been one vast room on a floor, with closets or recesses in the walls. The great staircase was in the south west angle. Some of the paintings on the inside, and the place where the great clock was fastened, on the outside wall, were till lately visible. Next to Ccesar's Tower, on the west i*ide, are the three Kitchens, of which enough only remains to shew their site and extent. Beyond these is the Strong Tower ; which is easily ascended, and commands, from its heights, a pleasing prospect over the adjacent countrv, especially towards the village and church of Honiley. But how different the view in the proud days of Dudley ! Then, spreading over a vast surface, two miles in extent, immediately round, were seen the clear waters of the lake : on the north side was the ornamented garden, hanging on the bank just below the castle wall ; and, beyond, stretching on every side, in a wide circuit of twenty miles, was the park, diversified with woods and lawns, and extensive plains; and, in one part, occupied by a " goodly chase" " filled with red deer and other stateljr game for banting." Descending from this height, the Banqueting Hall opens to view a grand apartment eighty-six feet long and forty- four wide, lighted by noble windows, formed Avith lofty arches, ornamented with rich tiacery, and at present finely festooned with ivy. Beyond this, to the right, is a recess, vulgarly called. Queen ElizahetKs Dressing Room. Turning easterly are seen in succession, the Pf-lute-IIall, the Presence Chamber, and the Priiy Cham- ber, of which nothing remains but fragments of walls, -3 r 2 412 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. ' ' ' . . ' ' ' , ' . , I ' ' ' , J.' '} : . Leicester's Buildings Mortimer's Tower TiU-yard Gallery Tower. Staircases, and windows and the whole range is grandly terminated by Leicester's Buildings. These, though last greeted, look the oldest : and as the materials are a browp friable stone, and the walls of inferior thickness, these will probably be the first to sink in total dissolution. Proceed- ing round this building, a pleasing walk conducts to the southern and western fronts, the latter of which still retains considerable uniformity of appearance. Opposite this, to the left, was the Sally-Port ; and through an arch- way beyond it, the Plaisance, now an orchard, conducting to the gardens. Here were formerly, according to an old writer, *^ a fountain," a " noble terrace, \vith a bower at each end," " a sumptuous aviary," and " statues of several Heathen Deities''' South-east of Leicester's Buildings, is Mortimers Tomer, beyond which was the Tilt-yard, ex- tending in a strait line of two hundred and forty feet, and terminated by the Gallery Tower From the Tilt-yard, a good view pf the whole grand mass of ruins may be obtained ; a still better fiora the meadows to the south ; but the best of all, perhaps is, from the rising ground, north-west, near the road from Honiley to JVarwich. Of tlie monastery, before noticed, situated east of the castle, which was, also, founded and well endowed by Geofrey de Clinton, the remains are scanty : and consist only of the fragments of a wall, and the venerable ruin of an old Gothic Gate-waij called, " 1 know not why" says Mr. Ireland, " Tantarra.'* This monastery, appropriated to the canons regular of the order of St. Augustine, was well endowed ; and continued in a flourishing state, till the period of the general Dissolution. Near these ruins, ADJACENT TOWNS, &e. 413 Keniluorth Church History of Stratford Present State. pleasantly situated, js the Church, an ancient Gothic struc- ture, with a good spire springing from a square tower at the west end. The principal entrance is through a fine spacious Saxon arch, still in a good state of preservation. This town, so highly celebrated, as the place, * Wljere his first infant lavs, sweet Shakespeare sung, * Where the last accents faultei'd on his tongue," is pleasantly situated, amidst fertile meads, on the hanks of the Avon rthe classical river of England which is hence made navigable for vessels of forty tons bur- den, to its confluence with the Severn at Tewkeshury. Its name is evidently derived from street, and from its situation near the ^br^ over the river. It was a consider- able place, in the Saxon times: and constituted part of the possessions, belonging to the Bishops of JVorcester, for many ages, both before and after the Norman Con- quest. Under their protection, it obtained the privilege of holding a weekly market, and several annual fairs ; and, in the progress of time, arose to some consequence. From these Bishops, in the reign of Edward VI. the manerial rights were transferred to John Dudley, Duhe of Nor- thumberland, in exchange for certain lands in Worcester- shire ; and, after various transmissions, were, in the reign of Charles II. conveyed to the family of the Duhe of Dorset, in which they still remain. Three times within half a century, has this town been visited with the ca- lamity of a dreadful fire ; twice, during the reign of Elizabeth, when two hundred houses were consumed; and once, in that of her successor, when fifty-four liouses were destroyed in less than two hours. 414 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. AJvnicipul Gorernment of Stratford The Church, Stratford* is a neat, airy, and well pavcd-town, 31ie old houses present curious specimens of ancient domestic architecture ; and many of the modern houses are large and handsome. By the last charter, which was obtained in the reign of Charles II. the municipal go- vernment is vested in a Mayor, twelve Aldermen^ and twelve Burgesses. This toAvn has little trade; and even that portion of commercial importance, which it once possessed, by means of its navigable river, since the con- struction of so many canals, has ceased to exist. Its weekly market is, however, well attended; and it has seven or eight annual fairs. The population is 3694, Stratford Church, anciently a Collegiate Churchy is a large and venerable structure; occupying a fine situa- tion, on the banks of the Avon ; in the midst of a spacious cemetery, more than usually filled with memo- rials of the dead, surrounded with the solemn shade of numerous trees which, in one part, planted in rows, and bent into an aibour, form a veiy serene walk, from the entrance of the church-yard, to the principal door. The. different parts of the Church are of different dates. Th& tower is supposed to be almost as old as the era of the Conquest, and the rest of the building was erected some time during the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. The nave is handsome and regular ; divided from its two side aisles, by six hexagonal pillars, terminating in pointed, arches ; above which, on eacli side, is a range of twelve Gothic windows. Between the nave and the chancel is the north and south transept, shut out from the one by foklinir doors, and from the other by a screen. The * See Whffi.fh'5 " lUstoMj cf fslrutfoTd," o wliicli tlie |ireseiii wiiler in mucli in- ilebletj ill diaii!g up ll:e tvliolc ol tliis account of Slra/ford. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 413 Monument of William Clapton^ Esq. of the Earl of Totness. Chancel is considered as the most beautiful part of this Church. It is large and lofty ; lighted by five uniform noble Gothic windows, on each side, and by another at the east end; and adorned by some niches, exquisite- ly finished, and other Gothic ornaments. Here lies Shakespeare ! The monuments, within this Church, are nume- rous. Some of the most remarkable are three of the Clapton Family ; which occupy a small Chapel, in the north eastern corner of the nave. The first is an altar tomb, without any inscription: supposed to be the ceno- taph of Sir Hugh Clopton, Lord Mai/or of London, in the reign of Henry VH. and the early benefactor of this town. The second is the tomb of William Clopton, Esq. and his consort Anne, who died in the reign of Elizabeth ; whose effigies, of white marble, are placed in a recumbent posture, on the slab. The male figure is in armour ; the head reclining on a helmet ; the. sword and gauntlet lying by his side ; and a lion couchant at his feet. Above, are several small figures representing the children of the deceased ; and the front, sides, and back, of the tomb are adorned with their armorial bearings. The third is the splendid monument of George Carew, Farl of Totness, and Baron oj Clopton, and of Joice, his Countess, daughter of William Clopton, Esq. Their figures, in alabaster, are placed under a lofty arch, highly ornamented ; supported by Corinthian pillars, surmounted by a grand achievement and two pyramidical ornaments. The Earl is represented in armour, with the mantle of estate thrown over it ; a coronet on his head ; and a lion couchant at his feet. Figures of angels and cherubims, pieces of armour and warlike accoutrements, form the profuse ornaments of this gaudy rather than elegant mo- 416 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. Monument of Dean Bulsallof Mr.Combc of Mr. Kendall. nument. The Earl of Totness was distinguished, as a military officer, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth ; first, in the splendid affair of Cadiz, under the Earl of Essex ; and, afterwards, as Commander in Ireland, against the rebels. He was Master of the Ordnance to Elizabeth and her two successors, and obtained other high honors. In the Chancel, besides the monument of Shake- speare, are several worthy of notice. Under the north wall, is a very ancient altar tomb, formed of alabaster, on which are represented some Scripture pieces, now much defaced. There is no inscription ; but it is supposed, both by J-.ELAND and Dugdale, to be the tomb of Dean Bal-* SALL, the founder of the chancel, who died in I491. Near the east end, is the monument of John Combe, Esq.* whose effigy, dressed in a long gown, with a book in his hand, is placed in a recumbent posture, under an orna* mented arch, supported by Corinthian pillars. He died 1614. Against the east wall is, also, an elegant monu- ment, by Rysbrack, consecrated to the memory of James Kendall, Esq. of Stratford, who died 1751. It consists of a marble tablet, adorned with a bust of the deceased ; a profile ot his lady, on a medallion ; and two well-exe- cuted figures, one resting on the medallion, the other holding a serpent entwined. Besides this handsome Church, at a small distance from it, is the Chapel, anciently belonging to the Guild oj It is upon iliis gentleman, accused of usurious practice*, that the well known sitiri- cal e]>i:ai !i is said, but upon no good authority, to have been written by SuaKespkare who Bj l;ij neighbour and Ills acquniniance, and who wa kindly noticed bj him iu hiS " Ten ill the liundred lies here ingraved, " 'Tis a hnsidrcd to ten his sou! is not saved; " If any man a'k, wlio iic in tiiis tomb ? Oh? oi; ! qucth '.he dcv".!, "tij my Johm-a-Coibe. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 417 Ch'ipcl GuildhaU Gramma? School Alms Houses Murket-House. Ti I II I II I 11 ^ I . . the Holy Cross, which was dissolved at the period of the Reformation. It is a fine old structure, originally founded in 1443 : but a great part was rebuilt in the Gothic style, in the reign of Henry VII. by Sir Hugh Clopton ; to whose memory, a monument has been since erected within it. In 1804, when this chapel was repairing, some curious Jresco paintings* were accidentally discovered, on the in- terior face of the walls, concealed under coatings of white- wash. Those in the chancel^ eleven in number, repre- sented various passages in the Legend of the Holy Cross ; which, being in j^laster, were, in the reparation, unavoid- ably destroyed. But those in the body of the church, painted on the stone, are preserved. They are representa- tions of The Resurrection The Day oj' Juchj;ment The Combat of St. George and The Murder of Bechet, Near this Chapel, is the Guildhall, anciently be- longing to the same religious fraternity, supposed to have been erected in the 13th century. In the lower apart- ments, the public business of the corporation is novr transacted ; and, in those above, is the Free Grammar School, founded in the reign of Henry VI. by a native of Strafford, named Jolepe. Contiguous to the Guildhall^ is a long range of Alms Houses, into which twelve poor men and twelve poor women are admitted ; who receive a small weekly allowance of money, besides clothing. The Marhet House, called the Cross, is an ancient, and the Town Hall, a modern and handsome bailding. The great room, sixty feet in length and thirty in widtli, is adorned by a portrait of John Frederic, Duhe of Dorset, Of these, drawing* v.ere taken bv J>Ir. Fisher, of lloxttn ; and outline copies executed at liic Fo'-ydato^T^piiic Picss. .) G 418 ADJACENT TOWNS, Sec. Portrait of Garrick 'Police of John, Robert, and Ralph de Stratford. presented by tlie Dutchess ; another of Shakespeare, painted by Wilson ; and a third of Garrick, by Gains- borough. In the last, the great Actor appears, leaning on a pedestal, and pointing to the bust of the mighty master of the Drama, whose scenes he so truly and power- fully depicted. It is a fine painting ; but the costume is considered as very inappropriate.* Stratford had the honor of giving birth to three dignitaries of the church, all of the same family, and who all flourished in the reign of Edward III. These were John, Robert, and Ralph de Stratford. The first was Archbishop of' Canterhury and Lord Chancellor of Eng- land; the second, his younger brother, was Bishop of Chichester, and also Lord Chancellor ; and tlie third was the nephew of the two former, and was consecrated Bishop (f London in 1339. A cliantry, for five priests, was founded by the first of these distinguished prelates ; and a house, called the College, for their residence, was built by the last ; which was taken down only about sixteen years ago. But the great name, winch gives its proud and pre-eminent distinction to Strafford, is yet to be more dis- tinctly noticed ; and the writer feels his pen move with almost awful reverence, as he approaches it. He need not say it is Shakespeare the first poetical genius of the world whose connection with this favoured town, it is now his duty to trace. They, whom the enthusiasm of admiration, in any dc[i;ree, touches, which the rare pro- ductions of that mighty genius so powerfully awaken who hasten hither, as to a sacred spot, with the devotion of an ancient pilgrim, to the shrine of his saint whom ilic thought pleases or enraptures of treading the same ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 419 Birth-place of Shakespeare Place of his early Education. ground, which he trod ;* and of beholding the scenes, from which his mind took its earliest impressions will naturally begin their inquiries with eagerly asking where Shakespeare was horn ? The answer they receive will conduct them to a lowly mansion^ still subsisting nmch as it then was, situated in a small street, called Henley- Street. Till the year I806, it appears, that these premises were occupied by the family of Harte, the seventh in descent from Jone, the sister of Shakespeare, to whom they were bequeathed, by his will. At that time, they were sold; and, instead of a single habitation, as formerly, they are now divided into two. One part has been new-fronted with brick ; but the other part still retains its old front of timber plastered. The rooms are of scanty dimensions ; and, now at least, of dreary appearance. Yet^ in one of these rooms, April 2.3, 1564, the immortal Bard of Eng- land drew his first breath ! His father, John Shakespeare, was a respectable woolstaplcr, who enjoyed a small hereditary estate : his mother's name was AnKe Arden. They had ten children* Of these, William, the Poet, was the eldest ; and for his education, as the best, which they could afford, with so large a family, he was sent to the Free Grammar School, in this town. This building still remains, much in its ancient form ; and hither the curious enquirer will na- turally follow him. It is situated over the Guildhall ; and, here, in a large unfurnished chamber, it is said, was for- merly the school. In that room, therefore, most probably, did Shakespeare receive his early instruction: which iu- * Sloveraur cnim nescio quo pacto locis ipsis, in quibus eorum quos diligimus aut admiraiauradsunt vestigia. Cic. 3 G 2 4520 ADJACENT TOWNS, &e. Sftaluspeare's Marriage /its Tannly. daded, certainly a pretty good knowledge of his own language ; and extended, probably, to a some slight know- ledge of Latin. *' He had small Latin and less Greek," is the report of his friend, Ben Jonson. " It seems likely," says the great Biographer of the Poets,* "that he learned Latin enough to make him acquainted with constniction ; but that he never advanced to the easy perusal of Latin Authors." This is all, at least we can possibly suppose, that Shakespeare attained, in the Strafford Grammar School : though some have conceived, that in after life, he acquireel a more extensive knowledge of the Roman language, and some scanty knowledge even of the Grecian, and that he could read with facility both the French and the Italian. From school, liowevcr, he was removed too early, to admit of any great proficiency, jiis father liad no wish to make him a scliohir ; and probably wanted his assis- tance, in his business, at home. It seems pretty well as- certained that he followed the sauje business, for some years ; and, before the age of 1<), he married Anne Hath- away, daughter of a substantial yeoman of Shottery, about a mile from Strafjord. By lier, he had first a daughter, and then a son and a daughtei", twins, all born before he was out of his minority. Soon after the birth of his twins, an unhappy affair o])iiged him sudck^nly to re- linquish his Ijusiness, and his home. In a youthful frolic, with some disorderly companions, he had been guilty of stealing deer, from the ])ark of Sir Thomas Lie v, of Charhcoie ; and had aggravated his oflence, by })ubiisliing Johnson'* Preface to Sn/iKKSi'tARE. $ S-e, oil tliis subject, FARMtR's lls%ny on the Learning I'f Shiikis,irnrc. Whai.if.y's JiK^uiry iiUo the hcuvning i<f bhakespearc. Pnifaco to " Aphorkmsjrom ^hakcipcaref" ic. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 421 His Flight to London his Theatrical Career. some bitter lampoons against the person, he had injured. Let not our admiration of the, poet impel us to excuse or palliate the errors of the man ; nor let us hesitate to give up these early indiscretions of Shakespeare to whatever censure, they may be thought fairly to deserve.* Being threatened with the vengeance of the law, to avoid it, he fled: and about the age of 21, or 22, he left Stratford, and sought security from present danger, and means of fiiture subsistence, in London. It is not the pui'pose of the present slight memoir, to pursue the history of Shakespeare, beyond the limits of its immediate connexion with Strafford. Sullice it to say, therefore, what is indeed so well known, that on his arrival in the metropolis, he was introduced to the theatre ; that he appeared, iirst, as a player ; and, afterwards, as a dramatic writer ; that, in the former character, he sunk below the praise of mediocrity ; but rose, in the latter, to a height of fame and glory, which none have reached, either before or since. His reputation spread ; his conse- quence grew; he became the manager of the theatre, as well as the author of its most admired productions. The smiles of royal favor beamed upon him ; the patronage of the great attended him ; and the applauses of the public followed him. He soon acquired a fortune, equal to the moderation of his wishes ; and, in the midst of his pros- perous course, advanced scarcely beyond the meridian of life, he adopted the extraordinary resolution, of relin- quishing for ever the dazzling prospect of increasing honor and riches, and passing the lemaiuder of liis days, in tran- * " Age says, when ca.ididly it luoks on Youth, " By lite rfiiiumbraiice of our diivi foregone ' Sucli were our faults O ilieii we ihuuglit tlieni none !" Wint. Tale. 422 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. Shakespeare's retreat to Stratford New Place. quil retirement, amidst the beloved scenes of his childhood and youth. According to the most reasonable computa- tion, Shakespeare retired from public life, with a fortune of not more than ^200. a year equal, it is conceived, to ^1000. at present. Somewhere about the year l6il, as well as can now be ascertained, Shakespeare " bade the town fare- w-ell ;" and returned to his native place, after an absence* of considerably more than twenty years. During all this time, however, it may well be supposed, that he occasion- ally visited the spot, " where once his careless childhood strayed ;" where his family and his relatives still lived ; and whither his thoughts with fondest recollection un- ceasingly turned. Aubrey, born about ten years, after- Shakespeare's death, who took great pains to gain infor- mation, who asserts, however, a great deal upon very slender evidence, relates "' that he was wont to go to his native countiT once a year." It is, indeed, certain that so long as fourteen years, previous to his final retirement, he had completed the purchase of a large and handsome house,-in Stratford ; to which one hundred and seven acres of land, were afterwards added. This, when he had repaired and fitted it up to his mind, he called New Place; and hither, it is scarcely to be doubted, he frequently re- tired, before it became his constant residence. It was situated near the Chapel, and was pulled down only about fiftv years ago. It was then converted into a garden, the wall of which, next to the street, still marks the site of it ; and even this the lover of Shakespeare will not view. " Some leave their friends to dignifj- them more, " Bj lioiioiM sb-^enr?, and endeared return." Two Gent, or Verona. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 423 His Retired Life at Stratford. without interest ; especially when he shall be told, that here probably, some of the finest of his plays were written. The house was originally built by Sir Hugh Clopton, and was one of the best in the town ; since, it is called, in the will of that gentleman, the great house.* Here, in the bosom of his family, in the society of his friends, and in the exercise ofhiso^vn high powers of mind, Shakes- peare passed the last days of his life, according to every account, happy in himself and his family, esteemed by his acquaintance, honored by all. His wife was still living ; and though they had no more than the three children, born soon after their marriage ; yet there surely is no sufficient reason to conclude, from that or any other known circum- stance, either that Shakespeare did not love his wife, or that she was undeserving of his love. She resided, with- out doubt, in the same house with him : and continued to inhabit it, after his death. His son died at the age of 13; but his two daughters survived him. They were both very happily married ; the eldest to Dr. Hall, a physician of good practice in the town ; and the other to Mr. Queny, a man of respectable character in the neighbourhood, Avho is styled gentleman, in the Stratjord register. Besides social pleasures, literature and composition must, no doubt, have occupied a considerable portion of Shakespeare's retired life. According to the dates assigned to his several plays, by Mr. Malone, " The Tempest;' and " The Twelfth Night" if not " Othello;' were then written. If we admit the probable account of his annual, or at least occasional retreat, from the bustle of LoncloH, to the quiet of Strat- ford, how many other of his plays, may have been here * An Engraving of it in its origina] state may be seen in Ip.Ei.A5fD's Picturesque Views, taken from an old drawitij, found, as he vf.vs, among the Clopton Papers, which iias since been lost. 424 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. Shakespeare's Death. composed ^wlio can tell? Of his country amusements, may we not also conjecture that gardening made a part ? since it is univcrsJilly helieved that the celebrated muU berry-tree was planted by his oivn hand. But these days of literary or rural occupation, of tranquil and social enjoyment, were, alas ! of no long duration : and though he had scarcely reached the sixth of his own '' seven ages,"* he was now hastening to " that bourne, from whence no traveller returns." Four or five years comprise tlie utmost extent of his tranquil and happy retirement at Strafford. If the records of his life are few, of memorials of his death, we have none. His will is dated March 25, 1616; but is thougbt to have been drawn up in the preceding February ; in the preamble of which, he is said to be in " perfect health and memory " Whether this expression means more tliun mental sound- ness, requisite for testamentary dispositions, cannot now be ascertained. If it refer to bodily health, it would prove that ShxVKESPEARe's death was preceded by no long or ling- ering illness ; and that he continued to enjoy life almost as long as life lasted. All, however, that is certainly known, is, that the 23d of April foJiowing, wbicb Mas the day of his birth, proved also, like Petrarch's, the day of his death ; and that, with the conipletion of his 52d year, closed " the strange eventful history" of his extraordiiiary life. He died, as he had lived, not surely unconscious of those mighty powers of intellect, with which nature had so lavishly gifted him, and which bis own study and observa- tion had so wondcrously expanded and exalted ; yet with- out nmcli thought, certainly with no distinct anticipation, A Vol' L;kk Ii. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 425 Shakespeare's Grave-stone the Inscription. of future fame much less of fame so brilliantly and peer- lessly s})lendid as that, which has since irradiated his name with its glory ; and which promises to endure, undiminish- ed, as Johnson finely expressed it. " 'till eternity, with power sublime, " Shall mark the mortal course of hoary time !" It is delightful to be able, on reasonable evidence, to add, that the greatest of poets was one of the most amiable of men ; that the most purely and sublimely moral of all writers was himself moral ; that a temper unusually placid and cheerful, and manners uniformly gentle and obliging, were supported and dignified by virtuous propriety and. rectitude of conduct. We have traced the history of Shakespeare, from the place of his birth and early education, to that of his chosen residence, during the retired and closing years of his life. One more solemn step will conduct to the hal- lowed spot, where lie enshrined his mortal remains. This, as already noticed, is in the chancel of the Church. It is on the north side, near the altar. Here, a plain blue flat stone marks the spot, where the sacred ashes repose. On it are inscribed the following well-known strange lines, said, but by no means proved, to have been penned by himself. " Good Frend for Jesvs sake forheare " To digg tiie dvst encloased Ileare " Biesse be ye man yt spares thts stones " And cvrst be he yt moves my bones." Above this spot, against the north wall, is the monument, elevated about five feet fiom the giound. Under an arch, is placed the half-length effigv of the Poet, between two Corinthian pillars, with gilded bases and capitals, supporting the entablatuie : on the centre of 3 H 426 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. Shakespeare's Monuwetil the Inscription. which are his armorial bearings,* surmounted with a death's head ; and on each side, a boy figure, one grasping a spade ; the other holding in his left hand an inverted torch, and resting his right on a skull. The figure is in a sitting posture, in the act of composing; a cushion is plac- ed before him ; a pen is held in his right hand, and his left rests on a scroll. On that scroll, originally were inscribed the celebrated lines beginning "the cloud capt towers," &c. These ought surely never to have been erased, and ought as surely to be forthwith restored. Below the effigies are the following incriptions : Judicio Pjlivm, gcnio Socrafcm, arte Maroneni, ' Terra tcgit, popvivs Meret, Ol^mpvs Habet." ' Stay passenger, why gocst ihov by so fast, " Read if thov can^t, wliom enviovs Death hath plast, ' Within this raonvroent, Shakspbare, with whome " Qvich natvre dide; whose name doth deck ys toinbe^ " Far more then cost; Sieh all yt. he hath writt, " Leaves living art, but page to serve his witt." Obiit Anno Dei. 1616. iEtatis 53, Die 28. Ap. As this monument was erected, probably by his own relations, perhaps by Dr. Hall, his executor, but cer- tainly within seven years, at the latest, after his death, when his features were fresh in every one's recollection ; as the bust discovers a considerable resemblance to the earliest prints, given of him in the folio edition of hi * Or, on t bend sable, a tilling spear of the first, point upwards, headed argent. Crest, A falcon dispiuyed argent, supporting a spear in pale or. (j There is a siory that GAnniCK, in pointing wiUi his stick, to tlic right hand, kntyrkcd off tlie pen and the finger which held ii. The foriMer, the actor took away; the latter was restored by a modeller in the town t who, iiowever. forgot to give the poet a new pen. A common Goose Quill is now supplied; which, it may be supposed, is not unfrequently changed, from the desire of pilgrims to poneis something that may be called a relic of SHAkESPKAnS. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 427 Shameful indiifnili/ offered to Shakespeare's Bust. works ; and as a tradition prevails in the town that it was taken from a cast after nature ; this bust may fairly claim to be regarded as a likeness, though the countenance dif- fers considerably from that of the noble statue, in West- minster Abbey. The eyebrows are strongly marked, the forehead is unusually high, the head nearly bald, the beard pointed, and the whole air of the face is thoughtftil yet cheerful in which cheerfulness, indeed, prevails. This bust was originally coloured to resemble life ; and before that colouring was, by the daring hand of in- novation, obliterated, it is thus described : " The eyes were of a light hazel colour, and the hair and beard au- burn. The dress consisted of a scarlet doublet, over which was thrown a loose black gown, without sleeves. The upper part of the cushion was of a crimson and the lower part of a green colour, with gilt tassels." In the year 17'48, the monument M^as carefully repaired, and the colouring reverently preserved, at the instance of a company of players, then acting in the town : who, to defray the expense, appropriated the receipts, arising from the performance of Othello, All this was well. But then came, in 1793, Mr. Malone who, in taking a cast of the effigy, damaged the colouring : and, either from wretched taste, or still more wretched parsimony, instead of repairing what he had damaged, with self-assumed authority, ordered the whole to be whitened ! But surely to the assumption of such authority, in the case at least of what must now be considered as a public monument, the right may be fairly and utterly denied. If a private individual, be his pretensions what they may, is thus free to enter the sacred repositories of the dead, and to intro- duce violent changes, according to his own taste or 3 H 2 428 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. The surviving I'aini/j/ oj Shukcxpeare. h I caprice, what sepulchral memorials can be safe ? Good taste, too, it is contended, would certainly not have dic- tated the present change, any more than right feeling would have endured the thought of it.* Such statues as these Mr. Malone ought to have considered, were always intended to be coloured, and indeed absolutely require it : because the cut is rough, and not near enough to the ex- j)ression of resemblance, without the aid of colouring. It is impossible to add, but with increasing pain and disgust, that exactly the same indignity was offered, by the same gentleman, to the neighbouring tomb of John Combe, Esq. Surely there is somewhere a guardian care, which ought to have prevented these acts of violation, and which ought now at least to repair the mischiefs they have pro- duced! The wife of Shakespeare survived him nearly 8 years. She died Aug. 6, l6'23, and was buried between his grave and the north wall of the Chancel. ;{; His eldest daughter, married to Dr. Hall, died July 11, 1649, leaving only one daughter, Elizabeth ; and was buried, together with her husband, who died before her, in the chancel. His second daughter, Mrs. Queny, had three children, who all died young. Elizabeth Hall, there- fore, as she left no issue, though twice married, was the hist lineal descendant of the great poet. Her first hus- band was Thomas Nashe, Esq. of Welcomle ; her second^ 1 lie ful!()iiig lines were wriitcii in the bout, kept at the Churcli, of ihe nanus of all who visit lliu tomb ol Sn ak i sitahe : " Stranger ! to whom this moniinienl is shewn, " Invoke ilie Poet's curse upon IVIalone; *' \Vlio>e meddling zeal his barbarous laste displays, *' Ai>d smears his lomb-stone, as he marr'd his plavs." Oci.-2.mo. J ,SceAppe;idti, No. 17. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 429 History of New Place. Sir John Barnard, Knight, of Abingdon, near Nor- thampton. She died Februaiy 17, 1669, and was buried at Abingdon. There is no monument erected to her raemoiy. New Place, whilst Mrs. Shakespeare resided in it, after her husband's decease, became, in l643, the scene of royal grandeur. For, here, Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I. kept her court for three weeks, during the civil war. On June 22, she entered Stratford in triumph at thje head of a considerable force; and was soon aftei-Avardsi joined by Prince Rupert, followed also by a large body of troops. With these, July 13, she proceeded from Stratford to the vale of K^inefon, where she was met by the King, as already noticed.* On the death of her mother, New Place passed into the possession first of Mrs. Hall, Shakespeare's daughter, and then of Elizabeth H^all, his grand-daughter, afterwards Lady Barnard. Oh her decease it was sold; and became, at length, the property of Sir Hugh Clopton, recorder of Stratford, who died 1751, By him. New Place was completely repaired, and a modern handsome front built to it : and it was he, who, in 1742, had the honour of entertaining Mr. Garrick, Mr. Macklin, and Mr. Delane, under Shakespeare's mul- berry-tree, then standing in the garden. After his death, the premises were again sold ; and unhappily feil into the hands of a very graceless possessor, one Mr. Gastrell ; who, though styled reverend, was utterly incapable of lift- ing an eye of comprehension to the transcendant merits of his illustrious predecessor. This person began his sacri- legious depredations, by ordering the mulberry tree of Shakespeare, which was then remarkably large and .. .1 I. , - I l^,l^^^^^ - I .1 I . * See page S54t 430 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. !' ' I I III ! II - Destruction q/'Shakespen'es Mulberry Tree Demolition of New Place. flourishing, to be cut down and cleft in pieces for fire wood! This act of brutish insensibility, or malignant perversity, was done, merely to prevent the trouble of answering the enquiries of the curious ; and was followed by another, still more audaciously violent. In consequence of a dispute about parish assessments, the house itself was ordered to be razed to the ground ; the materials to be sold ; and the reDirend perpetrator of these outrages left Stratjord, says its historian, " amidst the curses of the inhabitants."* It must be added, that the mulberry Avood was very considerately bought by Mr. Thomas Sharpe, oi Stratford ; who converted every fragment of it into little boxes, tobacco stoppers, and other small trinkets; all which were so eagerly purchased and so plentifully supplied that at length doubts naturally arose whether the wood was all genuine. These soon called forth a solemn uffidav'tt from Mr. Sharpe, affirming that no single article of covnterjeit wood had ever been made or sold by him. Whethei faith was thus completely re-assured, we have no means of knowing. But with the single exception we have noticed it would be unjust to withhold our applauding testimony to the high veneration, with which the memory of the great poet, has ever been cherished in his native place. This 'is immediately discovered in the signs and inscrip^ tinns, which are scattered up and down the town. One, in particular, the Shakespeare s Head, near the GiiUdhall, deserves notice ; because it is a copy from the por- trait, -with the lines underneath, which is given in the early folio edition of his works. But the greatest moiui- W heeler's Histonj of Stratford, page 138. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 43i Shakespeare's Hall his Statue Garrick'<; Jubilee. ment of the public regard is the Town Hall, a handsome building of the Tuscan order, erected in I769, and honored with the name of Shakespeare's Hall. In a niche, at the north front, a good statue of the immortal bard is placed. The figure appears leaning on a pillar, and pointing to a scroll, on which the well known lines from ^' The Mid- summer Nighfs Dream'''* are inscribed ; and, on the pedestal, these, from Hamlet, so often and so happily applied to himself. " take him for all in all, < We shall not look upon his like again." Within the Town Hall, is also a large painting of the bard, by Wilson. He is drawn, sitting in an antique chair, in the attitude of inspiration, with books and manu- scripts scattered about, on the ground. As if conscious of his inability to do justice to the great original, the painter has very discreetly thrown the face into deep shade. This painting, the statue, and a portrait of him- self, before noticed, were all given by Gakrick, on the day of the far-famed Jubilee, Sept. 17^9 and thus we are brought to a story, which we ardently wish, for the credit of the town, could be blotted out of the pages of its history. Where honor was sincerely and even devoutly intended, never surely, was the memory of a sublime genius, so dis- honored, as by the low pageantry of that day ! An ex- ception may, indeed, be made in favor of the Ode of Gar- * " The Poet's cje, in a fine frenzy rolling, " Doth glance from Heaven to Earth, from Eartli to Tleavcn ; " And as imagination bodies forth " The forms of ihings unknown, the Poet's pen " Turns li'.em ro shapes and gives to airv noiIiin " A local liabitftiion and a nanjc." 432 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. Charlecote House. RICK, which contains some fine passages : hut the oration was hardly worthy either the speaker or the suhject in its criticisms, so poor and puny! in its composition, though florid, yet so feeble ! and the rest of the whole train of ceremony was scarcely supeiior to the meanest pantomime, that was ever exhibited in the most degenerate times of his own theatre ! We tremble to hear the hint thrown out of another intended jubilee ! He must be a bold man who hopes to succeed, where even Garrick has failed !* About two miles from Stratford is Charlecote HotLsCf the seat of the Rev. John Lucy, delightfully situated on the banks of the Avon ; commanding from its windows, fine views of that beautiful river, gracefully winding through the luxuriant grounds of the extensive park ; which is every where enlivened by groups of deer and cattle, and nobly adorned by towering and majeitic trees, spreading their broad and ample shade all around, flourishing in all the pride of forest freedom, untouched by the edge of the axe, for ages. The present mansion was erected by Sir Thomas Lucy, early in the reign of Elizabeth. It is built of brick, with stone colgnes; and consists of a spacious center, with two large projecting wings. Its original character has been considerably injured by the changes of modern times ; yet, in its general appearance, it still wears the venerable air of antique grandeur. The principal front See Mr. Briiton's printed proposals for a new Jubilee. See, for an account of the last Jubilee, WHEKi.tu's Ilislcry of Stratford ; iiitcispersed willi exiravngant praises, which his belter judgment, it can hardly be doubted, will lead liim, in tl:c next cdiion of lii uiefu! wcrk, ac leait to owalifv. if mt wl;o!Iv ic rcttict. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 433 Lucy Famih, retains more than any other part its ancient form : and the great gateway, standing at a small distance before it, still subsists .as it originally was, a line specimen of the gothic style, which prevailed at the time of its erection. The interior apartments are numerous, but not large nor grand, with the exception of the great hall. This is a noble room, of lofty elevation and ample dimensions ; fur- nished with a spacious music gallery, ornamented with fine painted glass, and adorned by several portraits, chiefly of the Lucy family. This family is of great antiquity, and, through a long succession of generations, was greatly distinguished, by its immense wealth and influence in this county. Its pedigree is deduced from Roger de Charlcote, in the reign of Richard I.: but it was not till that of Henry III. that the family assumed the name of Lucy. Sir Thomas Lucv.bv whom Charlecote House was built, is the well known person, so broadiy marked, as the prosecutor of Shakespeare, for stealing his deer; whose portrait is supposed to be drawn, under the mean and con- temptible character of Justice Shallow^ in the irresistible scenes of the " Merry Wives of Windsor:' The intended allusion can hardly, indeed, admit of doubt. Falstajf^ brought before the Justice for " stealing his deer' ' the dozen white luces of his coat," so plainly pointing to the luces hauriant of the Lucy arms and " the old coat of three hundred years standing," as plainly referring to the antiquity of the family all this is too clear to be misun- derstood. But though some satirical allusion to his former prosecutor is evidently meant, yet it may be questioned whether the Poet really intended that Sir Thomas should 3 I 434 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. Si7- Thomas Lun/, the prosecutor of Shakespeare, be taken as the prototype of the vain, weak, and petulant Justice, in hiss whole character. Or, if he did, it would not follow that his resentment did not carry him beyond the bounds of truth and fairness. The threatened prose- cution of a disorderly young man, who had more than once robbed his park, and who defied his power, and annoyed hii peace, by publishing lampoons against him, is surely de- serving of no very severe censure even though that young man, many years afterwards, turned out to be a Shakes- peare ! Yet this seems to be the whole of Sir Thomas's supposed misdoings nor did he ever, as far as appears, pursue his fugitive, or urge his threat to actual prosecution. And for this, shall it be said, that he deserves to be held up to the dislike and contempt of all future ages ? Is it certain, at all events, that the picture of the Poet is not drawn in something of the spirit of a caricature ? And is it fair to look for the true features of the face, in the hi- deous, or even slight deformities, of a caricature ? A far more correct idea of Sir Thomas's character, it is apprehended, may be deduced from an admirable in- scription, drawn up by himself, signed with his own name, and placed over the tomb of his consort, in Charlecote church.* Stronger evidence could scarcely be desired of sound and discriminating judgment, and of the best and the noblest feelings, than that inscription affords. He, whose pen could trace, and whose mind could dictate those lines, or even approve and adopt them, if supposed to be written by another, coulil not be weak or vain ; and though he might be provoked by insolence to some severity, yet in his natural or habitual disposition, he could not be unjust, cruel, or oppressive. * See Ajip'-'iKlix, No. 13, ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 435 J I ' ' * Monuments of the Lucy Family. The lady whose merits are so fragrantly embalmed In the tender and fervid, yet well-judged praises of a hus- band as well as Sir Thomas Lucy himself lies buried under an altar tomb, on the south side of the chancel in Charlecote church. On its slab, their effigies, finely exe- cuted, are placed in a recumbent posture; the male habited in armour, the female figure in a mantle and petticoat ; their heads resting on pillows, their hands elevated and joined ; and, at the feet, is the family crest. She was the daughter of Thomas Acton, of Sutton, fVbrcestershire, Esq. and died Feb. 10, 1595. Sir Thomas died Aug. 18, l600: but, for him, there is no inscription. After his decease, his great estates passed into the possession of his son, and afterwards of his grandson, who were both named Thomas, and who both obtained the honor of knighthood. The former lies buried in a little chapel, to the north of Charlecote church. His monument, erected by his widow, is imposing, but gaudy in appearance, and tasteless in design. The figure of the deceased appears lying on a spacious tomb. Above, are three small arches, from the entablature of which are two projections, sup- ported by two Corinthian pillars : on the front of the tomb are fourteen small figures ; and before, kneelincr on a pillow, is the widow, habited in weeds, with hands joined, in the attitude of prayer. This monument is without any inscription. The third Sir Thomas Lucy, dis- tinguished as a senator and a scholar, as well as a sol- dier, died Dec. 8, l630, and was buried, also, under a splendid monument, in Charlecote. church. Beneath three ornamented arches, supported by four massy pillars, are the eftigies of Sir Thomas and his lady, the daughter and heiress of Thomas Spencer, of Claverdon, Esq. ; the fe- 3 I 2 436 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. History of {.'oventry. male fig;ure recumbent, but the male only reclining. On the back of the tomb, on the one side, appears a library of classical authors, and, on the other, a favorite war horse, to whose speed and courage, in a moment of imminent danger, it is said, he once owed his safety. A long Latin inscription celebrates, in high strains, the patriotic spirit, tlie love of learning, the generosity and charity, the con- jugal and parental affection of Sir Thomas ; and a few modest lines, afterwards added, bear testimony to the amiable virtues of his Lady, by whom, during her life- time, the monument was erected. To trace distinctly the history of this \ery ancient city, or to describe minutely its present state, would form of itself a volume. It is only a slight and very imperfect sketch, which the necessaiy limitation of a few scanty pages will here admit. Coventry is supposed to have been a British town. In the Saxon times it was certainly a considerable place ; and the names of its early and powerful protectors, Leofric, and his lady Godiva, are still celebrated. Though the well-known story of this ])ious and benevolent lady, for such she really was, with all its strange circum- stances, not with decency to be described, is evidently fabulous ; yet the city owes too much obligation to her patronage and that of her lord, not to cherish their memory with gratitude. By them was laid the foundation of its subsecjuent prosperity; and under the fostering care of their de-icendants, after the Norman Conquest, Coventry * See Piciit's DouUi, &c. gicn in Goucu's Camuew, t. 2. p. 463. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 457 Coventrt) Cross Municipal Government Frcsent Siatc. continued to increase and flourish. Till the reign of Richard II. it was an open town. In that reign the walls, begun 40 years before, were completed. They were three miles in circumference, strengthened by 32 towers, and furnished with 12 gates. Most of the walls, and some of the gates, were demolished in l66l, by order of Charles II., as a punishment for the disloyalty of the inhabitants, who had refused admission to his Royal Father, during the Civil War. Traces of the walls are still to be discovered ; many of the gates were not taken down, till within the last half century; and of three considerable, remains are still to be seen. The Cross, built in the six- teenth century, once so famous, after suffering much from neglect, was finally removed in 1/71 Coventry was first incoiporated in the reign of Edward III. ; and in that of Henry VI., by special royal favour, it was erected into a city, and, together with a district of four miles round, into a county of itself. Its present municipal government is vested in a mayor, ten aldermen, and twenty commoners. It sends two members to Parliament ; and the right of election is vested in free- men ; consisting of all those Avho have served a seven years' apprenticeship, within the city or suburbs. It principal manufactures are ribbons, and watches. The former, which is its leading article, affords employment, it is said, to 1 6,000 persons in the city and the neighbour- hood. Of the latter, a newly established trade, more, it is supposed, are now made here than in the metropolis. It has a weekly market and four annual fairs. The popu- lation, according to the last returns, is 1 7^923 . The general appearance of Coventry is that of an old, irregular, ill-built town; with bouses so crowded, us 438 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. St. Michaels ChurchThe Spire. almost to exclude the light and the air; and with streets so narrow, as scarcely to be passed with safety. Yet, to the lover of architectural antiquities, a walk through the city will be highly interesting. In every direction, he will see bouses stampt with the venerable marks of age, exhibiting specimens of the different styles that prevailed in different past eras : and in the religious and other edifices, he will find objects to excite, in a high degree, and to gratifv his cariosity. It must be added, that the modern houses are many of them spacious and handsome ; that the spirit of public improvement, long dead or dormant, in this city, has latelv been aroused into life and action ; and that an im- portant and extensive plan of opening and widening some of the streets, has been already, in part, carried into execution. Of the relig;ious edifices, which we now proceed to enumerate, the first mention is due, to the beautiful and magnificent church of St. Michael, originally founded about the year 1133. It is one of the finest Gothic struc- tures in the kingdom ; consisting of a nave and two side aisles, divided by lofty arches, with light clustered pil- lars. The upper range of windows is furnished with painted glass ; the lofty ceiling is of oak ribbed and carved ; and the look of the whole interior is airy and ele- gant, and yet impressively grand. But the glory of this church is its Spire ; begun in 13^2, by two brothers, of the name of Botener, who annually expended ^100. upon it, till in 22 years, it was completed. From the summit of a square tower, richly adorned with saintly figures on the side, an octagon rises, supported by eight springing arches, and, from the pinnacles within its battlements, issues a spire, which, for its exact and exquisite symmetry, and its rha'ite and beautiful embellishments, is jiistlvthe Avonder ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 439 Trinitif Church St Johri's Gre^ Friars' Steeple, of its ovviij as well as the admiration of all succeeding ages. Sir Christopher Wren pronounced it a master- piece of the art. The height of the steeple, nearly the same as the length of the church, is 300 feet. That of Salisbury/ cathedral is above 400. Closely adjoining this grand edifice, is Trinity Church, which would be regarded, says Pennant, as a most beautiful structure, were it not eclipsed by the superior splendour of St. Michael. Both these churches are built of a brown stone, beautiful to the eye, but so friable as to suffer greatly from the effects of weather. Most of the or- naments are, in consequence, much defaced, and tlie more elaborate touches of the chisel are entirely gone. Trinity Church is built in the form of a cross^ with a tower in the center, from which rises a lofty well-proportioned spire. The interior has much of the air of gothic solemnity; but the painter's colours and the gilder's tinsel have somewhat injured the effect. The third church, St. John's, situated near the west entrance, is a good stone structure, with a low, heavy tower, in the center. Coventry is a Bishop's See, in conjunction with Litchjield. Anciently there was a cathedral, immediately contiguous to the two churches of St. Michael and Trinity, and an episcopal palace ; of both which some scanty remains are still to be seen. Near the IVarwich Road was formerly the church and the monastery of the Grey Friars, an order of mendicants settled here in 1234. The latter has totally disappeared ; and a beautiful steeple, with a spire ;pringing from an octagon, is all that remains of the former. Tlicre are eight places of worship in different parts of the city, be- longing to the various classes of dissenters. 440 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. St. Mary Hull Vuriotts public buildins'S of Coventiy. Near Si. 3IichaeVs,h St. Mary Hall, a venerable pile, founded in the reign of Henry VI., originally be- longing to the Guild of St, Catherine. The front is oc- cupied by a noble window, of large size and just propor- tions. The entrance is through a porch, with an arched roofing. Beyond is a court-yard, in which is the door, leading to the large Kitchens, and a flight of stairs con- ducting to the great Flail. This is a grand room, 6.3 feet long and 30 wide. At' the upper end is a splendid and spacious semicircular window, divided into nine com- partments, elegantly painted with figures of several of the English monarchs, and with armorial bearings and other ornaments. Underneath this window, is a hanging of fine ancient tapestry ; in which are represented Henry \T. and Queen Margaret, with the lords and ladies of their court, several scripture characters, and a number of male and female saints. The side-walls are adorned with inscrip- tions and heraldic devices ; and hung round the room, are a considerable number of portraits of the English Sove- reigns, and the benefactors of the town among whom. Sir Thomas White holds a distinguished place. Besides this great Hall, under the same roof, are the Old and the New Council Chambers, and the /Mayoress' Parlour, a fine Gothic apartment, spoiled by the introduction of modern windows and other modern decorations. Near the market- place, is the Mayors Parlour, a somewhat confined and by no means handsome room, where much of the public business cf this great city is transacted. Among the other ])uildings, Avortliy of notice, aie the House of Industry, part of which, was formerly the ancient monastery of the Jfldte Friars Bahlake Hospital, an old building, with strong mark* of decay, into wbicli ADJACENT TOWNS, See. 4*1 Situation oj' Stoneleigh Ahbeij. forty-two alms men are received ; and in which, also, twenty four boys are clothed and educated Grey Friar's Hospital J with a curipus ancient front, richly embellished with carved wood, Qccupied by twelve w^omen, and two aged men and the Free School, with its new and hand- some front, in the pointed style, formerly the Hospital of St. John, the chapel of which is the present school. Here was educated the great antiquary. Sir William Dugdale. The modern buildings are the County Hall, the Prison, and the Draper's Hall. This last has a stone front, sup- ported by Tuscan pilasters ; but the total absense of win- dows gives, to the whole exterior, a dismal appearance. This noble mansion, as already noticed, occupies a situation of profound, but delightful seclusion ; amidst bold acclivities, that rise all around; and towering and spreading woods, Vvhich extend their solenm and majestic shades on every side. It stands on a sloping bank of the Avon, smoothed into a delicious lawn, expanding before the win- dows, and reaching down to the water's edge. At a pro- per distance, the river, which is here of ample breadth, appears, Avinding its easy course, through fertile meadows ; and the ground a little beyond, ascending gradually, and ranging round in the form of a fine semicircular sweep, is richly robed in a waving mantle of wood, stretching before the eye, in full display, to a wide extent. Near the house, are the large gardens ; and at some distance from it, is the deer park, filled with numerous groups of that stately ani- mal, which are seen wandering through their spacious boundaries, w^ith almost the happy freedom of a state of nature. Encircling the nearer grounds, is a tract of rich and beautiful country, adorned v/ith the grandest wood o K 442 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. Hist or If of Stoneleigh Abbe v. scener}', especially that of venerable oaks, the luxuriant growth of ages, extending to a vast distance, and forming part of the immense domains attached to this princely abode. Tliese are said to comprise, in the whole, here and elsewhere, upwards of tw^enty-five thousand acres. Stoneleigh Abbey was founded in 1 154, as a mo- nastery for the reception of a fraternity of Cistertian monks ;* who removed from Radford, Staffordshire, and subsequently from Cri/field, near Kemlworth, to this place.^ At the Dissolution, it was granted to Charles Brandon, Dvhe of Suffolk, and by his heirs, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, was sold to Sir Thomas Leigh, Lord Mayor oj Londo-n ; whose grandson, in the reign of Charles I. for his faithful adherence to that unfortunate monarch, was created a Peer of the Realm, by the title of Baron Leigh, oi Stoneleigh. On the decease, without issue, of Edward, Lord Leigh, the fifth in descent from him, the estate pas- sed into the possession of his only sister, the late Hon. Mrs. Leigh. This excellent lady, lived to the advanced age of "JO, in the unremitted exercise of generous and charitable dispositions, as enlarged as the ample means which an immense fortune afforded : and thus, by the last of its illustrious line, was well supported that virtuous Jame, which has ever given to this tnily noble family its proudest distinction, in ali past times.:|: She died July 2, 180G, when the estate passed into the possession of the Rev. Thomas Leigh, oi Addlestrop, Gloucestershire : on * So named from tlie place of llitir first establulitucnt, which was at Cisieaux, near Chulvns, ill France, . i ' It may, without suspicion of flattcrj, be sbid, tliat tlie virtues of this noble Familjr, their piety, probity, tnd charily, have coiutanlly accouipaiiied the tille," Kifpis' Bio^r, Brit. ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 443 Present state of Stoneleigh Abbei/, whose decease, it descended to his nephew, J. H. Leigh, Esq,, M. p. for Bedmn, the present possessor. Of the original abbey, little now remains, excepting the groined arches, below the present building, which still make excellent cellars ; and the venerable gate-house, which, according to Dugdale, was built by Robert de HoCKELE, the sixteenth abbot, who died in 1349. ^Y him, the large escutcheon of stone, still to be seen in the front, was placed, in memory of King Henry II., as the founder of the Abbey. A very displeasing report, some time ago prevailed, that this interesting fragment of early antiquity, to make way for some modern improvements, was shortly to be removed ! But, at present, we are happy to say, the venerable Gate-House, stands untouched ! and we have reason to hope, either that the report is unfounded, or that the first intention has given place to another, more accordant to the ardent wish of every lover of antiquarian remains ! Of the vast pile, which now forms Stoneleigh Ahhey, the more ancient part was erected by Sir Tho- mas Leigh, in the reign of Elizabeth. In this, are numerous apartments, chiefly occupied as chambers and domestic offices. The modern part is a large and lofty erection ; and contains within it several handsome apartments. The Entrance Hall is a room of ample dimensions and noble proportions; support- ed by Corinthian pillars, in a range of four on each side ; and adorned with representations of the Labours of Hercules, in a^to-relievo. Tlie Dining Parlour and the Breakfast Room, on the right, and the two Drawing Rooms, on the left, thongli not very large, are handsome 3 K 2 444 ADJACENT TOWNS, kc. Chapel of Sloneleigh Abltey. apartments, splendidly furnished, and finely decorated with some admirable paintings. There is, at present, neither a Library Room, nor Library. The Chapel is spacious and lofty, profusely ornamented in plaster work ; but the whole appearance is too light and airy to suit with the awful solemnity, proper to a place of devotion. The altar- piece is supported by two pillars of white marble, and adorned with a fine painting ; of which the subject is The Descent from the Cross, APPENDIXES. APPENDIX, NO. I. Extract from Domesday -Book of all that relates to WarwicJc, " In tlie Borough of Warwick, the King has in his demesne, US liouses ; and the Kin'g's Barons have 112; from all which the King receives Dancgold. The Bishop of Worcester has 9 dwellings. The Bishop of Chesicr, 7. The Abbot of Coventry, 26; and 4 are destroyed to enlarge the Casile. The Bishop of Constance, has 1 house. Tiie Earl of Melleux, 12 dwellings. Earl Aubery, lias 4, belonging to land which he holds. Hugh de Grentemaisnil, 4; and the Monks of Pillerton hold 1 of him. Henry de Ferrers has 2. Robert de Stratford, 6. Roger delvery, 2. Richard, the Forester, 1. Ralph deLimesi, 9. The Abbot of Malmsbury, 1. William Beunvasleth, 1. William Fitz-Cor- bucion, 2. Geoffery de Mandeville, 1. Geoffery de Wirce, 1. Nicoldus, the Cross-bowman, 1. Stephen, l.Turchil, 4. Harold, 2. Osbern Fitz-llichard, 1, Christina, 1. Lnitli, a Nun, 2. These dwellings belong to the Land* which the Barons hold, without the Borough, and are there valued. Besides these above named dwellings, there are in this Borough, 19 Burgesses, who have 19 dwellings, with sac and soc, and all custoins, as they had in the lime of King Edward the Confessor. *' In the time of King Edward, the Sheriffalty of Warwick, with the Borough and Royal Manors, rendered 65 pounds, and 36 sextars of honey, or 24 pounds, eight shillings, instead of honey, (pro uirmibus qua ad met perHiie- hanl.) Now with the /onn of the Royal Manors, and pleas of the County, it pays per annum, 145 pounds by weight ; 23 pounds for the custom of dogs, 20 shillings for a sumptcr horse, 10 pounds for a hawk, and 100 shillings for Queen-gold. Besides this, it renders 24 sextars of honey, of the larger measure, and from the borough 6 sextars of honey, at the sextar for 15 pence. Of these the Earl of Melleni has 6 sextars and 5 shillings. " It was the custom of Warwick, that, when the King went on an expedition by land, 10 burgesses of Warwick went in lieu of all, lie who did not go when summoned, paid tlie King one hundred iliillings. And if the King went by sea agninst iits enemies, 4 mariners (batsweins boatswains) or 4 pounds m pence were sent to him." APPENDIX, NO. II. Abstract of the Borough Charter, granted hy William and Mary, in 1697- " By this Charter 25 of the inhabitants of Warwick, are constituted a l)od^ Corporate, by the name of Mayor, Aldermen, and fJurgesses, in perpetuo. Their former priviles^cs are confirmed. They are to have a common seal ; which they may change, at iheir pleasure. The Mayor is to be chosen out of the Aldermen, who are to be thirteen in nmnher; and to continue in office for life; unless they shall be, for just cause, removed. Twelve other of the more honest and discreet men of the Borough are to be selected, and called Assistant Bur- gesses; who are, also, to hold their stations for life,, unless for just cause re- moved. A Recorder is likewise appointed, whose ofiice is for life ; to he exer- cised cither personally, or by a Deputy ; and another person, learned in the laws of England, called the Common Clerk, who is to be chosen by the Recor- der, and IS removable by him at his pleasure. The New Mayor is to be chosea by the Mayor for the time being, and 26 of the Aldermen and Burgesses col- lectively, or a majority of them, on Michaelmas-day; except it fail on a Sunday, and then on the following day, between the hours of nine and twelve in the forenoon. The meeting for this purpose is to be asseaiblcd by the existing Mayor; or, in his default, by a majority of the Aldermen, in the Shire Hall, or in any other convenient place. At this meeting the Mayor and Aldermen, or a majoiity of them, or in the absence of the Mayor, then, a majority of tlie Alilermen, shall name two of the Aldermen, neither of wliom have served the office of Mayor, within two years, as candidates for it. Of these two, one shall be chosen by a majority of all the Burgesses present, together with tiic Mayor and Ahlcrmcn; and shall take the oath, and enter on his office on All Saints' Day. If he die before the year is expired, or be put out of office, either for ill-behaviour, or for not residing in the Borough ; or if it happen that any Alderman refuse the office when chosen, another shall be appointed within eight days, in the same manner as before. Any of the Aldermen are also re- movable by the Mayor, and a majority of the other Aldermen, for ill-behaviour, and for not residing in the Borouiih. When the number is rendered incomplete by death, or by removal, it must be filled up within eight days, by a new election, at a meeting of the Aldermen, to be summoned by the Mayor. No Burgess, however, shall be eligible to this office who has not resided three years in thfi town. The Assistant Burgesses are removable in like manner, by the Mayor and Aldermen, and are chosen by them only. Upon the deatli of the Recorder, the Mayor and majority of the Aldermen are to choose a fresh one, who may appoint a Deputy and Common Clerk; who also may appoint a Dej uty himself, removable at pleasure. There arc, also, appointed three servants, or officers of the Corporation, called ihe Sergeant of the Mace, the Yeoman of the Borough, and the Beiidle of the Borough. These officers are to be chosen by the Mayor and a majority of the Aldermen, and are removable at pleasure. The duties of these officers are to be attendant upon the Mayor, Recorder, and Deputy Recorder, Justices of the Peace, and tiie Courts of the Borough ; and to exe- cute the mandates, precepts, and processes of the said Mayor, &c.; to make summonses, distresses, attachments, arrets, corrections, imprisonments, and proclamations within the Borough, as. directed by the Mayor, Recorder, or Deputy Recorder, Justices nf the Peace, &c. The Serjeant of Mace, or in his absence, the Yeoman, shall also carry before the Mayor, in all places within the Borough, a silver or gold mace, engraved and adorned with the King's Arras. If an Alderman when chosen to be Mayor, shall refuse, without reason- nble excuse to serve the office, he shall be fined by a majority of the Aldermen, a sum not exceeding ^^20. A Burgess refusing to holu the office of Alderman, when elected shall forfeit a sum not exceeding ^10; and an Assistant Burgess in the same case b. which sums are to be appropriated to the use of the Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses. The Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses are to constitute the common council for the management of the affairs of the Borough, and they shall have power and authority to make good and wholesome laws for the Government of the said Borough, and to assess and impose reason- able fines and penalties upon offenders. The Mayor, Recorder, and thre senior Aldermen, shall be Justices of Peace to try all offences, within the pre- cincts of the Borough; except such as affect the life of the offenders. A Court of Pleas of Record is appointed to be held before the Mayor or his Deputy, Recorder, Deputy Recorder, Common Clerk, or his Deputy, on Wednesday in every week, except Easter and VVhitsunweek, and that on which the Feast of Nativity happens ; which Court is to have power and authority to hear and determine, hy plaint levied, a,]\ manner of debts, accounts, covenant;, contracts, trespasses, &c. provided the damages demanded in such actions do not exceed ibe sum of forty pounds." APPENDIX, NO. III. Dulness of JVarwich. " The uncommon dtilness of this town asui the air of n)clai\cholr which prevails in it are aUnost proverbinl." Journey/ inlu South Ila/c;, page 317. " Where Avon wider flous and gathers fame, A town there stands, and Warwick is its nar..c. For useful arts, entitled, once, to siiare The Mercian dame E!fred;.'s guardian care. Nor less for feats of chivalry renown'd. When her own Guy was, with her laurels, crown'd. Now indolence subjects the drowsy place ; And binds, in silken bonds, her feeble race. No busy artisanrs their fellows greet. No loaded carriages obstruct the street. Scarce here and tiiere a sauntering band is seen. And pnvcinenls dread the turfs encroaching green." Jago. " On Warwick town, and casilc fair, I've feasted full my wond'ring eyes ; Where, things abound, antique and rare; To strike the stranger with surprize ! " But if, again, 1 ere appear, On this unsocial, lifeless spot, May I be spitted on Guy's spear ! Or boiled in his porridge pot ! Ascribed to Garrick. APPENDIX, IVO. lY. Might of Common, The following is a Copy of a Roll, in the possession of the Chamberlains of Warwick, relative to an Inquisition made by order of the Mayor, Alder- men, and Commoners, the 20th May, 1755. " Whereas upon an Inquisition or Inspection made and taken the 16th day of June, in the year of our Lord, One Thousand Six Hundred and Ninety- eight, by the several persons chosen by the inhabitants out of the several wards in the parish of St. Mary, in the Borough of Warwick, to inspect and make re- porf, of the ancient Rights and Privileges belonging to the Commons given anciently to the said parish of St. Mary, upon such their Inquisition, they found that no new-erected tenement had any Right of Common, except, such tene- ment stood upon such groimd, where an ancient tenement formerly stood that had Right of Conin^on. And, that sucii Right of Common had been used and enjoyed only by such P.nrisliioners who then held and occupied such ancient tenements, in the said parish of St. Mary, which were then in the several tenures of the persons mcniioned in the said Inquisition or Inspection, to wliich they subscribed their nanjes. " And whereas it was thought proper on the Twentieth day of May, One Thousand Seven Hundred and Fifty-five, at a Meeting at the Market-hull, by the Mayor, Aldermen, and Inhabitants, who have now Right of Common in a the snicl parish of St. Mary, for tlie said ancient tenements, that several ancient People out ofcacli ward, who are well acquainted with the said Common, should inspect and peruse the said Inquisition or Inspection, and make report in whose hands the said ancient tenements now are, and who are the present owners thereof. And in pursuance of the power and authority to us so given, hy the Mayor, Ahlrrmen, and Commoners of the said parish of St. Mary, whose hands are hcieonto suhscrihed, hein^ ancient inhabitants of the said parish of St. Marv, and well acqu;:inted with the said Commons and the ancient tenements, which have a Rij^ht tn the same, we do find as follows, viz. That the Tenements in the several Wards, in the Teonrc of several Persons hereinafter mentioned, have Right of Common for two Mouths, viz. for one Horse and one Cow, or two Cows and no Horse. \^Here follow the names of all those Persons, who ly this Inquisition, were found entitled to a Right of Common, which occupy eight skinn of parchment.^ And we find upon inquiry, these ancient Customs used hy the Com- moners, lime out of mind, which are as follows : I-MPRrMr^, that no person that hath rig:lit to put on Cattle upon the said Common, may set or let his Commons to any other person or persons, upon penalty (if justly proved) to forfeit to the Chamberlains Thirteen Shillings and Four-pence, to be imployed for the benefit of the Commons. Item, that no person put on the said Commons, any mangey or evil diseased Horse, Cow, or Heifer, upon penalty of paying; Six Shillings and Eight- pence, and such Cattle are to be impounded by the Chamberlains or Herd, so soon as they know of it. Ii EM, that no person do keep any P.Iare or Marcs, or Colts not backed or unshod, upon the Common. Item, that no person shall make use of his Commons belonging to any other House, than what he lives in himself. Item, that no Commoner having two Houses that have Right of Com- mons in his own hands, shall make use of more than the Commons belonging to that House he then dwells in. Ttfm, that if any person shall have two Houses, that have Riglit of Common belonf;in} to them both, and shall lay them into one Dv^ elling-house, shall make use of, nor have any more Commons than what do properly belong to one House, until the same shall be parted again and occupied by two several Tenants or Occupiers. IfEM, that no person do make any new way over any part of the Com- mon, to carry muck or hay, but that the Chamberlains upon notice thereof do impound ihcir Cattle for such trespass, and make them sufficiently pay for the same, or present them at the next Sessions. Item, tliat it hath been the usual Custom of the Chamberlains, to drive all the Horses going upon the Commons, mice in every year, and t mark the said Horses, and ench Commoner is to pay tlicm Four-pence the first time, and Two-pence tlie second time for such marking. Item, it Imth been a Custom, that the Chamberlains shall keep a Book, to enter all ilorses. Cows, and Heifers, that shall be put upon the Com- mons, and the respective Owners of such Cattle, shall give notice to the Cham- berlains of their putting on such Cattle, within six days at the farthest, next after such putting on, and describe their marks that tiiey may be entered in their Book, upon pain of forfeiting Six Siiillinf^s and EigUt-pence to the Cham- berlains : And any person that shall neglect to enter such Cattle into their Book, the Chamberlains may impound the said Cattle till entered, and then the Owners shall pay unto them for such neglect, One Shilling. Ite.h, that the Chamberlains do yearly lay out in the repairs of the Gates, Mounds, Ditches, and Fences belon>;ing to the Common, all such money they shall receive, by the marking of Horses or oilier penalties and for- feitures, and if any money shall remain in their hands, shall trans(nit it over to the next succeeding Chamberlains, and shall yearly at Michaelmas Sessions next ensuing the end of their year, give and yield up a fair and just account in writing, to the Mayor and Justices of the Peace of this Borough, of all Receipts and Dibbursemc'its they have been at, in their said Odice, In witness whereof we have hereunto set our hands containing eit^iit rolls of Parchment, the Seventeenth day of June, in the year of our Lord, One Thousand, Seven Hundred and Fifty-five. High-Strbbt Wjrd. THOMAS ROW?:, JONATHAN V/ILSON, WILLIAM NASON. Castle-Street IVaro. FRANCIS WIGLEY, THOMAS STONLEY, WILLIAM ROE. Saltisford Ward. THOMAS HAULEY, JOHN ROGERS, JERVIS TROUGHTON. Jury-Street Ward JAMES LANE, JOSEPH GOTTEN, WILLIAM HANDS. Market-Pcacb Ward. JOii CllOOK, JOHN LANGTON, HUGH TAYLOR. GEORGE HOPKINSON, West-Street Ward. WILLIAM COLLINS. JOSEPH WATsiON, S.nior, W'lLLlAM FAIRFAX, THOMAS BANNER,") JOHN ROADS,^ >Cha>nbcrlains for the Ycur, l7."ir>. JOHN SABIN, 3 B G APPENDIX, NO. Y, Various Charities* 1. Tor providing food and clothing for the Poor, jq2 was left by J. Smitli, of Sherborne. 6 4s. 6^. hy Mr. T. Ayleswortli, of NVcUesbourne. jC2 10s. by Mr, R. Grimes, Alderman, of Warwick. .l 10s. hy Mr. R. Ver- iior, citizen, of London. 5 4s. by Mr. J. Blissett, Alderman, of Warwick. 5 5s. by Mr. M. Busby, of Warwick. ^5 by Mr, N. Rnthwe'i, Alderman, of Warwick. ^2 by Mrs. Turviile. 2 13s. by Henry Fumes, Gent. 2 12s. by Mr. Ed. Makepeace. C. For putting out poor children (ipprerdices, ,10 15s. was left by Sir Thomas Puckering ^5 by Mr. R. Heath, Alderman, of Warwick. ^5 by the Hon. J. Smith, Chief Baron of the Exchequer of Scotland. ^9 10s by Mr. J. Hadley, Alderman, of Warwick. ,10 by Mr. G. Webb, mercer, of Warwick ^^10 by Mr. R. Lane, Alderman, of Warwick. jgS by Mr. M. Busby. G. For buying coals for the use of the poor, \5 was left in part by the late Earl of Warwick, and in part by the Rij^iit Hon. C. Greviile. 4. For six poor widozcs, " 10 was left by Mrs. Hammond. And the interest of ^200 to be paid to ten poor uidous, by Mrs. C. Benton. 5. For general purposes of Charity, at the discretion of trustees, Q5 was left by Mr. J. Toolie, Alderman, of London. ,^8 8s. by Mr. D. Price, of the Priory. i by Mr. R. Edgworth, of Overton, Northainptonsliire. ,25 by Mr. T. Wliatteley. ^15 by Sir T. Delves, of Doddington, Cheshire i^l5 by Mrs. Tomkys. jfll 18s. 4d. by Mrs. Johnson, of Warwick, And ^16 by Henry Archer, Esq. Member of the Borough. APPENDIX, NO. VI. Figures on the Monument of Thomas Bcanchamp. East Side of the Tomu. 1. A woman in ncbulc head-dress, waisitcoat, long close embroidered slccvt?, and pctlicoat. 2. An old man with jjointeti heard, caj), mantle, rigiit arm half out of it. 3. A woman with reticulated liciid-diess of a difTcrcnt pattern, long sleeves below wrists, and otiiers iian^inj: down. Lands folded. 1. A man in cap, hair and beard, close coas wiih st.Tndinii cape, and hose all of one piece, belt and mantle. 5. A wonuui \^ith a zigzag head-dress, uianilc fa'-tencd by o rose, pnd close gown, hands across. G. A man in a cap and hood and close coat, purse or gloves in rig;ht hand and anelace at belt. 7. A woman in reticulated head-dress, mantle different frona the former, a close gown, hands folded and joined. South Side. 1- A man in close cap and hood, and close coat; in riglit hand gloves or a purse ; left on his breast ; from his girdle hangs an ane- lace. Under him the arms of Beauchamp. 2. A woman in a mantle and close gown and reticulated head-dress. Under her in a borduie nebulfe a cross. Fits Jeffert/y the earl's grandniotlier. 3. A man in a cap, beard, and whiskers, close coat and anelace. Under him Beauchamp impaling Morlimer. The earl's mo- ther. 4, A woman in reticulated head-dress, close gown and waistcoat over ir. Under her Beauchamp impaling Ferrurs. Ills eldest son Guy, who married Philippa daughter of Henry lord Ferrars of Groby. 5. An old man bearded, in a close buttoned coat, mantle, and hood. Under him Az. a cinquefnil, Or. T.ar- rfoZf, husband of Agnes, his 7th daughter, impaling Beauchamp. 6. A woman in reticulated iiead-dress, a close gown, and in her left hand a rosary. Under l;er Chequfe O. and Az. a foss G. Roger Clifford, who married his daughter Maud. 7. A man with a pointed beard, in a cap and gown, right hand on breast, L n- der him O. a chevron Gu. Hugh earl of SioJ/hrd, liusband of Pliilippa his second daughter. 8. A woman in reticulated head-dress, mantle, waistcoat and petti- coat. Under her Barrb O. and Az. John lord Beauchamp of Hache, husband of Alice third daughter. 9. A man with a pointed beard, cap, mantle, armour, aiid sword, liose and pointed shoes of one piece. Under him O. three piles G. Ralph lord Basset of Drayton, husbanH of Jonn his fouitti daughter. 10. A wonuMl in a mantle and cap, or reticulated head-dress, defaced, holding an open book in her riglit iiand. Under her S. a cross engrailed O. William tff'ord earl of Suffolk, husband of Isabel iiis fifch daughter. 11, Aq old man in a mantle, with pointed beard and shoes. Tfie Head or West End. 1. A woman in the flowered head-dress, waistcoat, and petticoat; in her left hand a rosary, riglit on her breast 2. A man in a cap, pointed beard and mantle, right hand on his breast, 3. A woman in flowered head-dress, mantle, and close gown, Iiands before her. 4. A beard- ed old man, in cap and gown, a large rose on his breast. 5. A woman in reti- cnlated head-dress, mantle, waistcoat, and petticoat, long close embroidered sleeves, rigiit hand on breast. 6. An old man in peaked beard and cap, close coat and mantle.?. A woman in ziggag head-dress, mantle, and embroidered gown, with long close sleeves. North Side. 1. An old man, with pointed beard, an hood and mantle, his right arm appearing at a slit fastened by a stud. 5. A woman in a plain patterned head-dress, the hair appearing at the ends, a mantle, waistcoat, iuid petticoat. 3. A man in a bonnet, mantle, close coat and belt, breeches, iiosc, and shoes of one piece. 4. A woman in head-dress nebule pattern, miinilc, and hands folded. 5. An old man, with patted beard, in hood, right hand pulling down liie cape of iiis mantle. 6. A woman in curled hair, a kind of half mantle over her right shoulder, and her habit different from the rest. 7. An old man in a cap and parted beard; his mantle closed by a rose on his breast. 8. A 10 woman in the nefiulfe head-dress and mantle, holding an open book in both hands. 9. An old man in cap and mantle, right arm out on his waist. 10, A unman in flowered head-dress, and mantle, in the sleeve of which her left hand is concealed ; waistcoat and petticoat. 11. An old man in cap, pointed beard, inaQtlc, right hand on breast. APPENDIX, NO. VII. Figures in the Painted Glass of the East Window. NoRTU Side. In the outer moulding beginning from the lottom, a female saint crowned, with a sword in her right hand, and an open hook in her left. Another hoidinj^ in her riglit hand a tower with two stories. 'Angels hold A. two chevrons G. and Beauchamp An angel stands with a censer. Arms in a garler under a coronet, Beauchamp quartering cheque a chevron Erm. An an- gel standing holds in his left hand a globe. St. George's Cross in a garter under a coronet. In t!ic centre the Deity in glory holds a globe. SouTU Side. In a garter under a coronet old Fi.^ncc iid Kngland.' An angel standing iili n stnr on liis biuitM. In si {gaiter under a coronet chequft the chevron Erm. An angel standing lial)ited in a green vest, llcuuchamp quar- tering chequb the chevron Erm. impaling G. a chevron Erm. between ci>:!it crosses patee A.' An angel holding a maunch. .\ female bninr holding in her left hand an alabaster box, her ri^ht hand elevated. Another female Siiint ele- vatir)g her hands in pr.'\yor, at her feet a dragon. Nonrn Side. In the inner mouldings beginning as before: an ange! holding in his left hand a censor. Another feathered, holding in his right hand a sword erect. Anotlier holding in his right hand a dart, the point downwards. Another having on his breast G. a crossc flore A. Anotlier having on his breast an open book. Another standing in armour, as St. George, a cross in his left harid. Aii')t!icr feathered on one side the center. Descending South. Angel feathered, on the other side the centre. Another holriing a lannce across his breast in his Itft hand. Another feathered holding as it scenis an harp. Ano- ther holding G. a saltire A. perhaps Neville, An angol standing in dra[)cry, liolding in his left hand a pnhn branch. Another sinuhir seems to hold in his left hand a pilgrim's staff. Another holds a crosier. Up the two Middle Rahs are eight Angch in pain In Tiir. FrnsT Dap. The frrst two with feathered legs, robes, the one iavinj; tlic haiiii on hrcnst, the otlitr holding a hex - The second two, also feaiheicd, IiDh'iiv:, one a spear am! S"ord, and the other a sceptre, The third two, with four ^^ ii'g=, hands sprcai! The ftuitir two, the same. !n the Sf.cond I>An Angels in pair, rorrc?,!>f>iid- ii'g exacily w iih iliosc in the first liar, except tliat one has a ('i mon under iiini. il The Cextep. Compartment of this great window is divided into three days, of two stories. In the lower centre day is the portrait of the founder. Earl Richard, kneeling, his hands raised to a desk, with an open book ; dressed in armour, with spurs, wearing his herald's coat, on which are tlie arms of Beauchamp, quartering the old Earls of Warwick. Before hiin is a whole-length of Christ, crowned with thorns; Behind him iV/^er t^o/orosa, kneelin*. Over Christ a veiled female saint ; her right hand down ; in her left a scroll, on which is written undehoc i*** Over the founder, a bearded man, in green, holding in his left hand a scroll, inscribed non eperitur, in his right hand a belt. On the othersidc,a female saint, with flowing hair. Over heris written hoc b***me. The names of Thomas, IsaiaSt Amos, appear interspersed : perhaps originally part of a series of prophetical names, to which texts, from their writings, niiglit have been added, so frequent in old church windows. In the North Day arc four figures. In the upper story an old man, in a slouched broad hat, a scroll in his riglit hand, his left elevated, and fur ou his left shoulder. Another man in n hjit, casting up his eyes to heaven ; his right hand expanded, his left on his breast. In the upper story, an Archbishop raitred, holding a cross in his left hand, and blessing with his right. A man in armour, robed, a sceptre in his right hand, his left extended. In tiik south day. Lou-cr story. A bearded saint, his hands elevat- ed, and spread. A saint in a hat, extending his right hand, his left in a belt. Upper story. A bald saint, with a crozier, and open book. A female saint crowned, in her left hand an open hook, what is in her right hand uncertain. Names and broken sentences are interspersed in this as well as the center day. APPENDIX, NO. YIII. Earl Richard's Tomb. At Tiir. Head. A luau in cropt hair, cloak with falling cape and long sleeves over a coat, wliose left ileeve is adorned with loops, holding in left hand a book in a bag. his right on his breast, Henry Beauchamp, Duke of Warwick. Arms : Quarterly, ! Beauchamp. 2. O. 3 chcvroncis, G.--3. Cheque, as before. i. Dcspniser. A lady in the mitred head-dress and veil, mantle and gown girt round with a belt ending in a lozenge jewel, and holding in her iiands a scroll. Lady Cecil his wife. Arms : Qu.arterly, 1. Beauchamp, 'i. O. 3 chevroncls G. 0. Cheque O. and Ai. a chevron Erm. 1. A. bend Sa. quartering G. a net O. Vespenscr. Impaling quaiterly, 1. 4. O. 3. masclcs, Az. quartering O. a spread eagle, Az. Montague earl of Salisbury. 2. 3. G. a snltire 0. under a label of 3 points, cheque O. and Az. Neville curl of Warzcick. SoL'TU Side. 1. A man in cro{)t hair, habited as the first, holding in his left hand a scroll, in his right a mnnclc. Arms: the masclcs and eagles 12 qnartering the saltire and label. Richard Neville earl of Salisburi/, afterwards of Warwick 2. A man cropt anil habited as before, holding his mantle in hit right hand, and in his lefr, which is under the mantle, a clasped book.. Arms : In a border A. and A*. France and England. Edmund Beaufort duke of So- merset, who married Eleanor daughter of Richard Beauchamp earl of Warwick. 3. A man as before ; his hands concealed under ids cloak. Arms: Quarterly 1. Beaufort. Q. 3. Az. a bend cotlized O. between 6 iioncels rampant O. 4. 0. a chevron G. Stafford.' Humphrey Stafford, duke of Buckingham, who mar- ried Anne daughter to Ralph Neville, earl of Westmorland. 4. A man in a cloak, the hood over his head and face; his hands crossed downwards hold a elapsed book. Arms : Quarterly, 1. Az. in a border O. a lion rampant 0. 2. G. in a border engrailed O. a lion rampant O. Talbot. 3. O. two lions passant " uard- ant G. 4. 0. a bend between six birds' heads G. John Talbot, earl of Shrewsbury, who married Margaret daughter of Richard Beauchamp earl of Warwick. 5. An old man bearded, habited as before, in a cloak, the hood up over his c\es; his hands crossed holding a book in a bag. Arms : G, a saltire Az. under a label of three points cheque O. aiul Az. Neville earl of Salisburi/. Richard Neville earl ol Salisbury married Anne daughter of Richard Beauchamp earl of Warwick. At the Feet : 1. A man habited as before, his hair cropt, his hands laid on each other as counting tlie beads of his rosary. Arms : G. a cross fiurfe O. quartering G. a saltire O. George JVcville lord Latimer. 2. A lady in the jnitred head-dress, veil and mantle: in her crossed hands a rosary. Arms: the foregoiuir quarterings of Latimer ; impaling, Quarterly, 1. G. a fess O. between six mascies O. 2. 3. Chcqufe O. and Az. a chevron Erm. Old Earls of War" wick. 4. Beauchamp, Elizabeth daughter of Earl Richard. On the North Side: 1. A lady in the same head-dress as the pre- ceding, mantle, kirtle fastened high round her waist with a studded belt, close long sleeves : her left hand supports her chin; her riglit holds a long rosary. Arms : Quarterly, 1. Beauchamp, 2. Chequfc O. and Az. a chevron Erm. Old Earls (f Warwick. 3. Neville. Impaling, Quarterly, 1. O. 3 mascies G. 2. 0. a spread eagle G. 3. Per pale G. & O. 2 chevrons. 4. Dcspfnaer. Alice, <laughtcr and heir to Thomas Montague earl of Salisbury, wife of Richard Neville earl of Salisbury. 2. A lady in tlie same head-dress and habit; the veil of the mitre drawn over it, holding in her left hand an open scroll, in her right her mantle. Arms: Quaiterly, 1. Az. in a border O. a lion rampant O. Talbot. 2. G. in a l)or(ler engrailed O. a lion rampant O. 3. O. two lions passant guardant G. 4. O. a bend between six birds' heads G. Impaling, Beauchamp, quartering the chequb and clievron. Eleanor, daughter of Richard earl of Warwick, married to Edmund Beaufort duke of Somerset. 3. A lady habited in a mantle, the veil of her mitre over her eyes, her kirtle fastened in front by lacing; her hands crossed, and in her left a rosary. Arms : Quaiterly, 1. France and England. 2. 3. Az. a bend cottized G. between six Iioncels rampant O. 4.0. a chevron G. Impaling G. a saltire O. Anne, daughter to ll.)!;)!! Xeville enrl of Westmorland, married to Humphrey Stafford duke of Buik'.ni'h.ini. 4. A biiy in the same head-dress, the veil thrown back, and s. 13 kirtd of frontlet appearing between her eyes: her hands clasp a book. Arms: In a border O. and Az. France and England. Impaling, Beauchampt quarter- ing the cheque and chevron. Margaret, daughter of Richard earl of Warwick, married to John Talbot, earl of Shrewsbury. 5. A lady in the mitre, the veil thrown back, mantle, gown girt high: in her joiiied pendent hands a rosary. Arms as the first on tlie South side. Anne daughter of Richard earl of War- wick, married to Richard Neville earl of Salisbury. The angels hold scrolls inscribed : Sit Deo laus ct gloria, defunctis misericordia. Tbe inscription in two lines let into the upper ledge of the tomb, which is of speckled grey marble, is as follows: " Preieth devoutly for the Sowel whom God assoile of one of the moost worshipful Knightes, in his Dayes of Monhode and Conning, Richard Beauchamp, late Earl of Warrewick, Lord Despenser of Bergevenny, and of mony otiier grete Lordships ; whos body resieth here under this tumbe in a ful feire vout of stone set on the bare rooch, the which visited with longe siknessin the Castel of Roan iherinne deceased ful cristenly the last day of April the yer of our Lord God MCCCCXXXIX. He being at that time lieutenant gen'al andgoverner of the Roialnie of Fraunce, and of the Duchie of Normandie by sufficient Autorite of oure Sovaigne Lord the King Harry the sixth, the which body with grete deliberac'on and ful worshipful Conduit by see and by lond was brought to Warrewick the iiii day of October the yer aboveseide and was lade with ful solemne exequies in a feir chest made of Stone in tiiis Chirche, afore the west dore of this Chapel according to his last Will and Testament therein to rcste till thys Chapel by him devised in his lief were made, Al the whuche Chapel founded on the rooch and alle the Members thereof, his Executors dede fully make and apparaille, by the auctorite of his seide wille and Testament, and there- after by the same auctorite they dide translate ful worshypfuliy the seide body into the vout abouesaide; honured be God therefore." APPENDIX, NO. IX. Amhrose Dudley's Monument. On the South SiDEofthe tomb these coats of arms and inscriplions : O. a Hon rampant queue fourchee Vert. Dudley, with a crescent of difference, im- paling a chevron between three stngs' heads. Whoruood. The sayd Lord Ambrose Duddeley married to liis first wicTe Anne dowgliter and coheir of William Wliorwood Esquier Atterney-Gcncral to Kinge Henry the Evghte. 2. Dudley impaling a saltire in chief, 3 escallops. Tuylboys. The said Lord Ambrose mar- ried to his second wicf Eiizabelh dowghter of Sir Gilbert Tajlhoys Kniglit sister and sole heir of George Lord Taylbovs. 3. Dudley impaiiiig llinsel. The said Ambrose after he was Erl of Warwik rnaried to his third wife the I^ady Ann eldest danshter to Francis Ruse! Erie of BefordK't of the Gaiter. c 14 On the North Side : 1. Dudley impaling Bramshot. John Dudde- ley Esq. second sonne to Jolin L. Duddeley and Kiiiglit of tlie Garter niaried Elizabeth dowghter and heir of John Bramshot Esq. and had issue Edmond Duddeley. 2. Dudley impaling Lisle. Edmund Duddeley E?q. one of the Prive Counscll to K. Henrie 7 married Elizab. sister and sole heir of John Grey Viseou't Lisle descended as heir of the eldest do and coheir of Ric. Beachanip E of Warr. and Elizab. his wief do' and heir of the L. Berkeley and heir of the L. Lisle and Ties and had issue lo. Duke of Northumb. 3. Dudley impaling Guilford. John Duke of Northumberland Erie of Warr. \'icount Lisle and Knight of the Garter maried lane do* and heir ofS'r Edwnrd Gnildcford Kni{:iit and Eleanor his wief sister and coheir to Thomas L. Lawarre and had issue the said L. Ambrose. At the Feet. A shield with 32 quarterings, under a coronet, sup- ported by a goat and a lion collared. Motto, Omne Ternpus THE FOLLOWING INSCRIPTION IS IN CAPITALS: " Hcare under this Toaibe iieth the Corps of the Lord Ambrose Dudde- ley, who after the deceases of his elder Brethren without Issue, was Sonne and Heir to John Duke of Nortliumbcrlandc : to whom Queue Elizabeth in the First Yeare of her Reit;ne gave the Mannour of Kibworth-Beauchamp, in the County of Leicester, to be held ly the Service of bcinge Paniler to the Kings and Quenes of this Reamle, at tlicir Coronations, which Office and Maunour i:s said Father, and other his Aiicesteis, Erles of Warwick, helde; In the second Yeare of her Rcigne, the snid Queue gave him the Office of Mayster of tiie Ordinaunce ; In the fowrth Yeare of her savd Reigne, She created Ilim Baron Lisle aixl Erie of Warwick ; In the same Yeare she made Ilim her Lieutenant General! in Normandy* and during the Tyine of his Service there. He was chosen Knight of the noble Order of the Garter; In the Twelvth Ycaie of her Reigne the said Erie and Edward Lord Clinton, Lord Admerall of Ki-.gland, were made Livetenar.tes Generall joinctely, and severally, of her Majesty's Army in the North Parts. In the Thirteenth Yeare of her Reigne the said Quene bestowed on him the Office of Chief Butter of England; and in the XVth Yeare of her Reigne he was sworn of her Prive Council : who dcpartinge this Lief without Issue, the 21st Day of February, 1589, at Bedford House near the City of London, from whence, as Hin)seif desired, his Corps was con- vey'd and interr'd in this Place near his Brother Robert Erie of Leicester and others his noble Ancestors, which was accomplished by his last and well-belov- ed Wief the Lady Anne Countess of Warwick, who in further lestimony of her faithful Love towards Him, bestowed this i\L>numc't as a Rtmembrancc ot him." Inscription on Ituhcrt Dudley's Momimoit. Deo Viventium S. Spe certa resurgendi in Clirislo, hie situs est illustri'^siinus Robertas Dud'.oyus, Johannis, Ducis Northuinbri, Conutis Waruici, Vicecomitis InscLr, k.c. hliub quintus; Comes Leccstiia; ; Baro Denbighic, orJiiiis turn S. Gcorj^ii, 15 turn S. Michaelis, Eques auratus; Reginae Elizabethae [apud quam singular! gratia florehat] Ilippocomus, Regiae Aulae subindeSeneschpllus ; ab intinais Con- siliis : Forestarum, Parcorum, Chacearum, &c. citra Trentham summus Jusli- ciarius: Exerciti^s Anglici u dicta Regina liz: missi in Belgio, ab Anno MDLXXXV. ad annum MDLXXXVII. locum tenens et Capitaneus generalis : Provinciarum Confederatarum, ibidem Gubernator generalis et praefectus ; Reg- nique Angliae locum tenens cuntra Philippum II. Hispanum, numerosa Classe et Exercitu Angliara MDLXXXVIII. invadentem. An IMAM Deo servatori reddidit Anno salutis MDLXXXVIII. Die quarto Septembris. Optimo et cbarissimo marito, mcestissima uxor Leticia Francisci Knoilcs ordinis S Georgii equitis aurati et Rcgiae Thesaurai jfilia, amoris et conjugalis fidel ergo, posuit. APPENDIX, NO. X. " The Cave of Despair" Fkom the Fairy Queen of Spenser, Book I. Cant. IX, XXXIII. Ere long they come where that same wicked wight His dwelling has, low in an hollow cave, Far underneath a craggy cliff ypigiit, Darke* dolefull, dreary, like a greedy grave, Tliat still for carrion carcases doth crave : On top whereof ay dwelt the ghastly owle. Shrieking his baleful! note, which ever drare Far from that haunt all other cheerful fowiej And all about it wandring ghosts did wayle and howie : XXXIV. And all about old stockes and stubs of trees. Whereon nor fruit nor leafe was ever seen. Did liang upon the ragged rocky knees; On which had many vyretclics hanged beene. Whose carcases were scattred on the greene. And throwiie about the cliffs. Arrived there. That bare. head knight, for dread and doieful! tecne. Would fainc have fled, ne durst approchen ncare; But tir other forst him staye. and comi"orted in feare. XXXV. That darksome cave they enter, where they find That cursed man low sitting on the ground, c2 i6 Musing fall sadly in his sullein mind : His griesly lockes long growen and unbound, Disordred hong about his shoulders round. And hid his face, through which his hollow eyne Lookt deadly dull, and stared as astround ; His raw-bone cheekes through penurie and pine, Were shronke into his ia-ves, as he did never dine. XXXVI. His garment, nought but many ragged clouts. With thornes together pind and patched was. The which his naked sides he wrapt abouts : And him beside there lay upon the gras A dreary corse, whose life away did pas, All wallowed in his owe yet luke-warme blood, That from his wound yet welled fresh, alas ! In which a rusty knife fast fixed stood. And made an open passage for the gushing flood. APPENDIX, NO, XI,, Inscrijitton for Guy's Cliff Chapel. In hoc Loco, Quern Henricas Quintus inviserat, Et ad Canlariam a se fundandam destinaverat, Richardus Beauchamp Comes De Warwic, Regnante Henrico Sexto, Capellam posuit, et annuis redditibus locupletavit. Joannes Rous, Cum \\\ Collegium Capellanorum Clivi Guidonici,, Favente Edvardo Quarto, Co oplatus esset, Chronicum suum de Regibus Angliae, Et alios, qui vel deperditi sunt, Velin Biblioihecis etiam nunc dcliiescunt, Libros ibidem conscripsit. Tnrriui de sua pocunia extruxit Samuel Grealheed, Anno Domini MDCCLXIV. Bertie Grcatheed Samueiis fiiius ^diculam ipsam refecit MDCCCH, 17 Inscription for the Statue of Guy at Guy's Cliff, Ad Memoriam Nominis conservandara Guidonis Comitis Vcrovicani, Qui postquam Danos contra Patriam ipsius Arma inferentes devicerat, Satisquc bellicae Gloriae sibi comparaverat. In Cellam huic Aediculae vicinam, , Et a sancto Dabritio antea habitatam, Sua Sponte se recepit, Utquo in Loco cum consenesceret Deo pie colendo se totum dedidisset. In eodem Ossa sua post Mortem conderentur, Iraaginem hancce Ricardus Beauchamp Comes yerovicaaus Regnante Henrico sexto, Rupe exsculpendam curavit. APPENDIX, NO. XII. Inscription on Judge Willes' Monument. M.S. Edvardi Willes Arm. nuper de Newbold Comyn in Comitatu Warwiccensi ; Per plures Annos Proproetoris Civitatis Coventrie, Attornatus Generalis Ducatus Lancastriae; Regi Servientis ad Legem, t demum Baronis Capitalis Curia Scaccarii, Regique a privatis Consiiiis, in Hibernia. Quamquidem amplissimam Dignitatem, Auspicante Johanne Willes, (Id temporis Capiti. Justitiario Curiae Comm. Placitorum) Cousanguineo, Amico, Patrono unico, propria et prfeceilente in Legibus Peritia, Sagacitate, Fide, Obtinuit, Ornavit. Nee tamen Virtutibus iilis lenioribuS; (baud fortasse minoribus) Mansuetudine, dementia^ Bcnignitate^ IS parcius instructus est. Diim ad grandia Officii munia nimio Studio incubuit, iVIoiho (elicu !) gr^vi correptus est, Quo laiiguens sulum hoc (solum nempe natale) Pctiit. Nee Servi fidelis, & jam prae Valetudiae dcficieotis Imtiicinor esse potuit Rex Muiiificentissinius, Peiisione veio honorific^ bcnignissime cum remuneratus est: (^uh cum aliquaiitisper perfructus esset Morbo taiuJcm conft-ctus in sinum Servatoiis sui placi.f.isime aniiuam efflavit Die 24 mensis Junii ( Saluti5 1768, Anno < T . i iLtatis suae ob. Tres Liberi supeistites , Patrcm optumum, pientissimuru DeflciU. Coiijux merito mcestisslmn Virtutibus, ^lariti inclulgentis, peramantis. Hoc inarinor consecratum APPENDIX, NO. XIII. Inscriptions in Hat ton C/iifrc/i. Catlicrinc Jane Parr, youngest daughter of Samuel and Jane Parr, was born at Norwich, June I3th, 1702; died at East Teignmoutli, Devon, Nov. Q'iy 1803, and on December 9, was buried in this Ciiancel, uhere the re- mains of her afflicted parents will liereaftcr be deposited, at the icqncst of a most beloved child, whom ihc^ hope to meet again, ai tiic Resuiiection of tli'^ Just to Life tverlastiiig. Qua templo Catiiarina in hoc sepulta est, " Piuilcii's, casta, deeens, sevcra, dulcis, " Discordaiitia qua; soient putari " Riorum Conimoditate copulaiit. 19 " Nam Vilae comltes hons foerunt * Libertns gravis ct Piicior facetuS ' His est juiictiis Amor pius suorum, Et Cura ex Animo Deuin colendi- Mrs Sarah Anne Wjfnne, the ingenious and belovecl daughter of Samuel and Jane Parr, was born at Staiimore, in Middlesex, December 3Isr, 1772; died at Hatton, July 8th, 1310, and was interred on the 18th, in this Chancel, between the remains of her sister Catherine Jane Parr, and Iier third daugliter Madalina Wynne, who departed this life, May 26th, 1810, aged two jears, eiglu months, and nine days. Joanni Smithcman Qui vix. Ann. XV. Mens. VIII. Dieb. XVII. Hor. III. Decessit VIII, Id. Mart. Anno sacro CID. nCC- LXXXXIIII. Joannes ct Margareta Sniithemaa Parcntes infelicissiini, Unico et carissimo Filio H. M. Contra Votuni posueiunt. P. Thomas Nelson, A, M. Vir Frugi, inteeenimu?, Sacerdotalibus in iiac Eccle^ia Muneribus In Ex(7npluni^ perftmctus, Et de Successoribus snis quorum Rcditus Aiigendos f uraverat, B. M. Decessit Prid. Non. Octobr. Anno sacro MDCCLXX. Aetat. suaj LXI. * *' In exemplum." This phrase is spliiom or never to be found in the writings califd chissical ; hut it is perfecily correct in iiiscripiions upon luoiiunients, as we are tcld bj the leanud writer, by whom we were afcrred tn P. i^d, { llie elegant iiiscripiions wriiieii by Stephen Anthony Morcellus, 1783. A3orcelius not only defeiiHs and explains, but em- ploys tiie expression ill his own inscription upon Cardinal Zeladas. There is a passaage in Velleius Patercuius, which approaches the above-meniioned. Adolescens in omnium virtutimi esenipla genitus. The lines in inverted commas are taken from Sidonius Apoliiuaris, Episto, If L-b. 8. I4lj, Poet. L-utiH. 20 APPENDIX. NO. XIV. The History of Baddesley CImton, By Hestry Ferrers, Esq. ix the time op Qvees Elizabeth. This seate and so^!e from Saxbn Bade, a man of honest fame* Who held it in the Saxon's tyme, of Baddesley tooke the nanoe. When Edward King the Confessour did weare the English Crown, The same was then possestby * a man of som renowne; And England being conquer'd in lot it did alyghtej To Giffri/ Wirce, of noble birth, an Andegavian Knighte : A member Hamlet all this whyle, of Hampton here at hand, With Hampton so to Moulbray went as all the Wirces land, Now Moulbray Lord of all doth parte these twoo and grants this oat To Bisege, in that name it runs awhyle, and then is gone To Clinton as his heyre who leaves it to a younger son ; And in that time the name of Baddesley Clinton was begun. Prom them agayne, by wedding of their Heyre, at first came To Conhhj/, and after him to Foukes, who weds the same. From Foukes to Dudley by a sale, and so to Burdet past : To Mitley next by Mitley's will it came to Brome at last. Brome honours much the place, and after some descents of Dromes To Ferrers, for a Daughter's parte of theyr's in match it comes In tills Inst name it lasteth still, and so long longer shall ; As God shall please who is the Lotd and King and God of all. * A Blank in the Ongiaal. APPENDIX, NO. XY. Entertainment of Queen Elizabeth at Kenilworth Castle, [Extracted vrom Ducdale, p. 172, Jones' Edit.] "Here, in July, An. 1575,(17 Eliz.) hnrving compleated all things fr her reception, did he entertain the Queen, for the space of seventeen dayes, "with excessive cost, and variety of delightfull shews, as may be seen at large in a special discourse thereof then printed, and entituled, T/ie Princely Pleasuret of Kenilivorth Castle; having at her first entrance a floating island upon the pool, bright blazing with torches, upon which were clad in silks the Lady of the Lake, and two Nymphs waiting oo her, who made a speccli to the Q. in meeter hi ilie ;inti(mity and ownersf of thai Castle, which was closed wirli cornets, and 21 other loud musick. Within the Base-court was there a very goodly bridge set up of twenty foot wide, and seventy foot long, over tvhich the Queen did pass, on each side whereof were posts erected, with presents upon them unto her, by the Gods, viz. a cage of wild fowl, by Silvanus ; sundry sorts of rare fruits, by Pomona; of corn, by Ceres; of winct by Bacchus; of sea-fish, by Neptune ; of all habiliments of war, by Mars; and of musical instruments, by Phoebus. And for the several dayes of her stay, various and rare shews and sports were there exercised, via. in the Chase a savage man, with satyrs : bear-baitings, fire-works, Italian tumblers, a country bride-ale, with running at the quintin, and morrice- dancing. And that there might be nothing wanting that these parts could af- ford, hither-came the Coventre-men,and acted the ancient play, long since used in that city, called Hocks-Tuesday, setting forth the destruction of the Danes in King Etlielred's time; witli which the Queen was so pleased, that she gave them a brace of bucks, and five marks in money to bear the charges of a feast. Besides all this, he had upon the pool a triton riding on a mermaid 18 foot long: as also Arion on a dolphin, with rare music. And to honour this enter- tainment the more, there were then knighted here Sir Thomas Cecil, son and heir to the Lord Treasurer; Sir Henry Cobhani, brother to the Lord Cobham; Sir Francis Stanhope, and Sir Tho. Tresham. The cost and expense whereof may be guest at by the quantity of beer than drunk, which amounted to 3^0 hogs&eads of the ordinary sort, as I have credibly heard." APPENDIX, NO. XYI. , Survey of Kenihvorth Castle. *' The Castle of Kenilworth, situate upon a rock. |l. I'lie circuit tiicrcof within the walls contnineth seven acres, upon which the walks are so spacious and fair that two or three persons together may walk upon most places thereof, 2. The castle, with the four gate-houses, all built of free-stone, hewen and cut; the walls, in many places, of fifteen and ten foot thickness, some more, some less, the least four foot in thickness square. 3. The castle and four gate-houses, all covered with lead, whereby it is subject to np other decay than the glass, through the extremity of weather. ' 4. STherooms of great state within the same, and such as are able to receive his Majestic, the Queen, and Prince at one time, built with as much uniformity and conveniency as any houses of later time, and w ith such stately cellars, all carryed upon pillars, and architecture of free-stone, carved and wrouglit, as the like are not within this kingdom; and also all other houses for offices answerable. 5. There lyeth about the same in chases and parks j 1^00. per an. 900. whereof are grounds for pleasure, the rest in meadow and pasture there- to adjoining, tenants and freeholders. m 22 C. There joynetli upon this ground a park-like ground, called the King's Wood, with fifteen several coppices lying all together, containing seven hundred and righty-nine acres within the same; which, in the E. of Xcic. time, was stored with red deer; since which the deer strayed, but the ground in no sort blemished, having great store of timber, and other trees of much value upon the snmc 7. There runneth through the said grounds, by the walls of the castle, a fair pool, containing a hundred and eleven acres, well stored with fish and fowl, which at pleasure is to be let round about the castle. 8. In timber and woods upon this ground to the value (as hath been offered) of ^^20,000. (having a convenient time to remove them) which to his Majestic in the survey are but valued at igll,722. which proportion, in a like measure, is held in all the rest upon the other values to his Majestie. 9. The circuit of the castle, mannours, parks and chase, lying round to- gether, contain at least nineteen or twenty miles in a pleasant countrcy ; the like, both for strength, state, and pleasure, not being within the realm of England. 10. These lands have been survcy'd by Commissioners from the K. and the Lord Privy-Seal, with directions from his Lordship to find all things under the true worth, and upon oath of Jurors, as well Freeholders as custo- mary Tenants; which course being held by them, are notwithstanding surveyed and returned at ^38,554. 15s. Od. Out of which, for Sir Rob. Dudley's con- tempt, there is to be deducted jf 10,000.' anfl for the Lady Dudley's joyntnre, which is without impeachment of wast, whereby she may fell all the woods* which by the survey amount unto ^11,722. Extractcdfrom Vugdale. APPENDIX, NO. XVII. Inscriptions on the Monuments of the Shakespeare Famili/^ IIeerb lyeth interred ihebodye of Anne, wife of Mr. Wm. Shakespeare, who deptcd. this life the 6ch day of Av;vst, 1623, being of the age of67 yeares. Vhcra, tu mater, tu lac vitamq. dedisti, ' Vffi mill) ; pro tanto munere Saxa dabo! Quam malleus, amoueat lapidem, bonus Angel' ore' Expat irt Chtisti Corpus, imago tua Scd nil vota valent, venias cito Christe resorget, Ciausa licit tumulo maicr, et astra petet. IIeere lyeth ye body of John Hall, Gent, hce marr: Svsanna, ye. daughter & coheireofW.Shakespeare,GcDt. Heedec. Nov. 25. A. 1635, aged 60. 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