s-i^mim [""',"{* J t -.. :' ":-:.l Ex Libris C. K. OGDEN THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ^i^tmtal attti ^e^sftrtptit^e 3tccotmt TOWN 8c CASTJLE WARWICK; AWD OF THE l^eigJBounnj ^pa XEAMIKGTONj TO WHICH ARE ADDBO, 5Aor# Notices of the Towns, Fillages, S^c, WIIHIX THE CIRCUIT OF TEN MILES. Inltnded prineipalfi/ for the Information of Slrangert, Miratnr, facilieque oculos fert omnia circuon ^neas, capiturque locis ; et singula Istus Ezquiritque auditque Tirum moQamenta priorum. YlRG, PRINTED BY AND FOR H. SHAP.PE, t4nd Soldli/ Messrs. RtriacToN^ St. PauV s-Church-Yard, London, and all other Bookseller*. 3/4 istmmt Though the principal object of the fol- ioiumg fForJi, as expressed in the Title Page, is, the hifor-matlon of Strangers, especlalli/ those resorting to the celebrated Spa of Leamington : yet the Writer had another object in view to which, he achiowledges, his hopes and his wishes were, with equal or greater ardour, directed. During his residence in IFarwich, or its im- mediate vicinity, he has often had occasion to ivitness the regret, which, he believes, has long been felt, that no work of the nature of the present has yet appeared, of easy access, and comprising, within a moderate com- pass, the Information, that might be collected concerning a town of such remote antiquity, and so much early and 2yresent celebrity. The hope, he ventured to entertain, of supplying that deficiency, and of offering to the In- habitants of Warwick an accejualle present, the Writer is proud to own, has contributed more than a;:y other A 2 ly consideration to miimate his exertions, in the collection of his materials and the choice of his topics. Having re^ sided amongst them, nearly the fourth part of a century, differing from many in certain political, and from more in certain religious opinions, which he conceives to he of no small importance he would hold it most unjust land most ungrateful not to acknowledge the nu- merous instances of real candour and kindness, which he has very generally received from them, during the whole course of that time. He has only to lament one striking exception, which occurred long ago ; and which if still r^ememhered with feelings of regret it is regret, he is sure, unaccompanied with the slightest resentment. Should the present attempt to lay before the Inhabitants of Warwick an Historical and Descriptive Account, tolerO' bly complete, and in the main correct, of their ancient and interesting Town, and of other neighbouring places, he accepted by them, as some returm for the great obli- gations, which their favorable opinio?! and their kind and friendly civilities have conferred upon him ; the dearest wish of the Writer will be accomplished, and his lahours will obtain their best and most valued retvard. Lkam, Sept, \, 1815. AX l^Mtorical anti De^ctiptibe $fifcount WARWICK, ^c. CHAP. I. Vl/4JRll'rCX/o(/e(i fey Gntheline enlarged by Guideriu a destroyed by the Ficts repaired by Caractucus fortified by the Romans destroyed u second time by the Picts rebuilt by Constuntine destroyed a third time by the Picts rebuilt by Gwdyr a fourth time destroyed by the Saxons reinilt by Wurremund disputed whether a Roman Station a fifth time destroyed by the Danes rebuilt, and the Castle founded by Etheljieda a sixth time destroyed by the Danes rebuilt fortified, and the Castle strengthened by order of William I. paved and improved by Guy de Beauehnmp iti ancient Churches and Edifices enumerated represented early in Parliament incorpoi ated destroyed by Fire rebuilt. IjrUTHELINE, or, as he is otherwise called, Kimber- LiNE, who was King of the Britons, about the Christian era, is said by Rous, the celebrated antiquan,'^, himself a native of the place, to have been the FOUNDER of WARWICK.* Its name originally, according to him, was Caer-guthleon, and, by contraction, Caer-leon; from Caej% which signifies a cifi/, and Guthlin, the name of its founder. He, also, asserts that the town was considerably enlarged and improved by Guiderius, another British King ; that it afterwards suifered greatly, during the wars of the Picts and Scots ; and that it continued in a ruinous condition, till it was rebuilt by Caractacus, the most distinguished of all the early Biitish Princes, who erected in it a manor-house for himself, and founded a churcli in the market-place, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. * His. Reg. Aiijjl, p. r,: &c. EARLY HISTORY Destroyed by the Puts Rebuilt by Gwdyr Made a hishop^s See. When this high-spirited hut unfortunate prince, after a brave and vigorous resistance of nine years, was completely subdued by the power of the Roman arms, in the reign of the Emperor Claudius ; his general. Pub. OsT. Scapula, A. D. 50. in order to secure his conquests, as we are informed by Tacitus, erected various fortifica- tions, on the rivers Avon and Severn ;* one of which, there is considerable reason to believe, was at Warivick, as will be more distinctly stated in the sequel of this chapter. After its restoration and enlargement under the fostering cares of Caractacus, and the final secession of the Romans, from the whole Island in the year 426, Rous further asserts that PFarwick was again laid in ruins, during one of those sudden and frequent wars which usually mark the character of barbarous ages ; and that it was again rebuilt by Constantine, another British king, who called it Caer-Umher. Upon his death, it was a third time exposed to the desolating calamities of war ; and, from that period, continued in a ruinous state, till it wa3 a third time, rebuilt by another British king, named GwDYR, who called it after himself, Caer Gwar. About that period of its history, if the fact be sufficiently verified, Warwick was made a Bishop's see, by Dubre- Tius, afterwards Bishop of St. David's, Avho chose for his episcopiil church, not St. Johns, but another, All Saints\ which stood on the site, where the Castle was afterwards built. This season of its prosperity was, however, short; and the town was exposed to new and dreadful devastations, during the time of the Saxon -... cjuclotqm- Citslris ADlonaiu ct Sabriiiam fiuvioi cohibere parat. Tac. Ann, lib. lii. 9. 30. % OF WARWICK. 3 ]Jestrot/ed by the Saxons Rebuilt hy Wurremund and caWd Warreuyk. invasions. But when that warlike people had completely established themselves in the country, and had divided it into provinces, the Kingdom of Mercia was allotted to Warremund ; and by him the town was once more rebuilt, and was called, after his name, fVarreim/k. In the time of the Anglo-Saxons, however, this town was certainly called werhica, as appears from the inscrip- tion on an existing and genuine Saxon penny,* of Harthacnut, minted at this place. It is also written in the Saxon Chronicle werinca, and w^ringwic^ and the county is called wiERiNwiCKSHiRE. But to this account of the foundation and the subsequent events, in the early history of IVarivich, as related by Rous, and recited with approbation by Dug- dale, some considerable objections have been opposed, by several antiquarians, and particularly by Dr. Thomas,|| the learned Editor of an enlarged edition of the Antiquities of IVarwichshire, published in 1730. In his opinion, tha town was not of British but of Saxon origin ; and that it was ever a Roman station is a supposition utterly rejected by him. The facts, on which he principally relies, are, that no Roman antiquities have ever been discovered here;, and that, there was a military station, beyond all doubt, at Chesterton, only six miles distant whence it seems improbable that another should have been established, so near as IVarwich. Upon the whole, however, not only * This curious coin, hitherto unpublished, and as to the nanae of this townj unique^ is in the cabinet sf VVilliam Stauntcn, Esq. of Longbridge, near Warwick. From w- posed, could scarcely be overlooked ;|| and some have even ventured to give it, as their opinion, that IVarwick is the Prcesidium Romanoi^m, mentioned in the Notitia Imperii \\ where, it is said, a cohort of Dalmatian horse ^ras placed, under the immediate command of the Dux Britanniarum. But this last opinion, though supported by most of the great antiquarians, just enumerated, can Cami>n Gough's Ed. v. ii. p. 444. Baxter's British Aiitiquitie*. Siuke- Cby's Iiin. Curios. II. iO. S.tLsiuM't burv. of the Rom. Statious, p. 43'J. Bartlett' Hist, aud Ant. of Manceler, p. 6. II Dr. Stukeley thought he ditcovered (races of an encampment, on the east -fiide uf the river, in a field opposite to the Castle. It. p. 30. Not. Imp. Seclio. Lxiii. " Sub dispositione riri speciabilis duels Brilanniarum, Prxfectus equitutu Dalruataruiu, Praesidio." I'rsesidiuin is not mentioned in ilie llincravij of Antoninus; but Mr. Ward and the learned IIoRSELEr suppose the Pra;sidium ui 4he A'ofitia to be the Praetorium of the Uer^ and they fix the place of it, nut at Warviitk, but at Iiiouhtou, ill Liacelntiiirc, 2>tctT Bottc;, p 4>U. Brtt. Ant. 48!. OF WARWICK. Repaired, und the Castle founded by El/iei/ied". only be received, and indeed, is only given, as purely coDJectural.* After the establishment of the Saxons in Britahi, the town of Pf^arwick continued peaceful and prosperous, till at length it was destroyed by the Danes. It speedily rose, however, to more than its fonner consequence, under the auspices of Ethelfleda, the accomplished daughter of the great King Alfred, and the inheritor,|| in a high degree, of her father s genius and enterj)rizing spirit. By this Princess, who was manied to Etheldred, Earl of Mercia, the town was completely repaired and fonsiderably enlarged and improved : and by her, also, the foundation of the Castle was laid in 915; which soon became the residence of the reputed Earls of those tiure?, and proved of important consequence in securing the peace, not only of the tovAH itself, but of tlie whole surrounding country. Thus re-edified, enlarged, and embellished, by the cares of that active and spirited Princess, and defendeti by its newly-erected fortifications, IVarwick enjoyed long and uninterrupted repose : till it was doomed once more to sustain dreadful injiu'ies, from the incursions of the Danes, under Canute, in the year 101 6, This was * It is curious lo observe how very far ibe strength of cohftdence i Sf,ineiimi'S suiu fi i lo out-run the slrengih of eriJfce. Ireland, in his Pict. Views on the VVaricisiiir Avon, p. 133, thus expresses himself, " Warwick, it is well known, was caUcd b^ t;, Hoaiai.s, Pixsidlutn," II See Henry's Hist, of Eng. v. iii. p. 93. See also Spf.lman's Life of Alfroi. f They were either dtputies or lieutenanti to tlie Earls pf Jlcrris, or else officers inituediatetj appointed by tb King. Govgh'^ Cara. v. ij. p. -144. Dgdile, Oajg. Epcai> that it claim, of Phi royal cl with pow for the reg Visitation oj that the town 3;th of Hen. \ the reign of Kin which (lid little mo This was followed, by another and a la 1694, under the auth act ; and of which, t in the Appendix.^ * DcGKALh's WarwicLshire, ihe postcsMoa of \Vm. Staunton, of j in were , from it, as a structure le cliapter- In the short cCSS than 250 6839. F. 34i. in ihe .Ii I'.nppeiicd the 5lli Instant, iicd all the lUf^h ^rert, Chnrch unci oila-r Iiui7c/ii^s; llit* howses leiisl amounts to ] 2(),()()()!b. ; this liciilur ijf the iin)iiey already sert (Kilo. I.onl liRoOKK, 4011). Lorrl j'ml g'jinii I" iiiit;e a col.'ecliiu\ lor bept. 10, 1694." OF WARWICK. U liebuiU by Act of Parliament. families were entirely reduced to ashes : and the damage was estimated at above ^120,000, Subscriptions for the relief of the wretched inhabitants were immediately set on foot at Coventry, Birmingham, Worcester, and other places ; and further relief was speedily obtained, by means of briefs,* from all parts of the kingdom. The town was afterwards rebuilt, by Act of Parliament, in a more commodious and handsome form, partly of free- stone, from the rock, on which it stands. This cala- mity, therefore, as in many other similar instances, however dreadful at the time, has greatly contributed, in the result, to the regularity, the beauty, and the conveniency of the town ; and thus to the health, the accommodation, and the comfort, oi all its succeeding inhabitants. One of tliese briefs, which bears date Dec. 9, 1694 HiH remains, in the poi- fCisioa of VViLLiAJj SxAUNiOK, Esq. of Longbridg^e. ^^^ B2 12 REMARKABLE Martial Tmirnamenis at Wurzcick forbidden. CHAP. II. iUcmarftalile <9ttutttnctii* JNJ'ENDED Martial Tournaments at Wartcick, in the Reign of Henrp III. forbidden a Round Table held here in the Reign of Hdward 1. Decapitation of Gavtston on Blacklow Hill Celebration of the Order of St. Michael at St. Mary's Death of the Marquis of Northampton at the Priory Visit of Queen Elizabeth of James I. of William III. The Castle beseiged during the Civil Wars Battle near Southam the Castle relieved Battle of Edge Hill. X O the short abstract, given in the preceding chapter, of the early history of JVarwiclt, we subjoin the following notice of some remarkable events, connected with it. In the reign of Henry III. a numerous meeting of the Barons and others was intended to be held at Pf^arwichj, for the purpose of exercising themselves in martial tournaments, and other feats of arms. But this meeting, from an apprehension of danger to the public peace, was prohibited, by letters patent addressed to the Priors of Kenilivorth, and to those of St. Sepulchres in Pf^arivick. A similar meeting was again proposed, and again prohibited, in the 57th year of the same reign. In the reign of Edward I. who was one of the most accomplished knights of his time, the spirit of chivalry revived, and those assemblies, called Round Tables, were not unfrequently convened.* One of these, || Hew IT V. 38:. f Hist. Reg. p. 203. OCCURRENCES. i3 "- I I I'll I""' I'll- I II . . 11 ! . i j. . li . Lu a Round Tables Gaveston beheaded at Blacklo/t-tiill. according to Rous, was held with great splendour at IVarwich, in the year 1281 ; when crowds of natives and foreigners flocked together, from all parts, to be present on the great occasion. That either this or ano- ther similar meeting was held here seems also probable, from the curious Compoti /?o//|| of the Collegiate Church, made in the 5th Edward IV. in which 20 shillings is accounted for " de jirma cujusdam pastur'' voc' le Rownde Table.'' It must be admitted, however, that a piece of ground might be called by the name. of Round Table, without absolutely proving that an assembly of the kind in question was ever convened in that place. In the year 1312, Piers de Gaveston, the vaia and haughty fai-ourite of Edw. II. fell a victim to the em'y and hatred, he had so vehemently and even justly ex- cited. Closely besieged by the Barons, in the Castle of Scarborough, whither he had fled for refuge, he was oblig- ed to capitulate, and surrendered himself into the hands of the Earl of Pembrohe, on the faith of certain con- ditions which were afterwards, totally disregarded. From Scarborough, the unfortunate Gaveston was conveyed to Deddhigton Castle, near Banbvry ; where, being pur- posely left in the custody of a feeble and faithless guard, he soon found himself assailed by Guy de Beauchamp, Earl of fJ^arwlck, one of his most furious and implacable enemies. TI)at nobleman, indeed, besides other causes of complaint in common with the rest of the Barons, had received a particular and personal afljont, from the insolent favourite, who usually designated him, from his tj This ancient dociimrnt is now in flic possfjsion of William IlAMPEn, Esq. of Eirmingham, II is beautifulljr wtrt on parclimeut,!* jardi long and 12 inches wide. 14 RExMARKABLE Order of St. MirhueL celebrated ut St. Mary's. swarthy comple?cion, by the name of the '* black dog of Ardent On the 17th of June, the Castle of Dedd'wgton was suddenly attacked: little or no resistance was at- tempted ; the miserable captive was seized and carried to IVarivick Castle ; whither the Earls of Lancaster, Here- Jord, and Arundel, the heads of the party leagued against him, instantly repaired- After some consultations, it was agreed to put their prisoner to death, as a public enemy, without the slightest regard to the faith of express agree- ment, or to the forms established by law. Accordingly on the first of July, the wretched Gaveston was ccmducted to Blacklow Hill, about a mile from fVarwick-, and there, in the presence of his cruel and relentless foes, who beheld the horrid spectacle with savage delight, his head was severed from his body.* Cut in the rock, near the summit of the hill, are still to be seen his name, and the year of his death : but the inscription is evidently of much later date than tlie event it records. In the year 1566, the Order of St. Michael, instituted in France, was, by special favour of Charles XI. conferred on two English noblemen, who had been selected for this high honour, by Queen Elizabeth herself; and of these, as might have been expected, one was her great favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. In the following year, this nobleman, resolved to gratify his piety or vanity by the celebration of that Order in the Collegiate Church of fVarwick. On this occasion, the Bailiff and Burgesses were invited to attend the Earl : who, from the Priory, where at that time he lodged. Ducdale's Br- ol. ii. p. 44. Thomas's Dugdale'b Warw. p. 27S. IIuME vol. n. p. 136. Henhy, vol, vii. p. 1S4, &c. OCCURRENCES. 14 Death af W. Fnrr Visit of Queen Elizabeth. went in grand procession, accompanied by a numerous train of noblemen, and a vast concourse of people, to the Church ; and here, with solemn pomp and stately shew, the intended ceremony was performed. A circumstantial account of this ceremony, of which some further notice will be taken hereafter,* is preserved in a curious manu- script, called The Black Booh, written by an eye witness, which is still in the possession of the Corporation. Shortly after the conclusion of this splendid ceremony, at which he had assisted, died suddenly, at the Priory, William Parr, Marquis of Northampton, the brother of Catherine Parr, the last of the numerous Queens of Henry VIIL He was buried in the chancel of 0^arivick Church ; and the account of his funeral forms the second article in The Black Book. A third and a more interesting article is air account of the visit of Quee^ Elizabeth " in her highnesse's person," to the town, Avhich took place on Monday, Aug. 12, I572, Her Majesty had dined that day, at the house of Edward Fisher, at Long Itchingtoji; whence, on account of the bad state of the direct road,, through Teachbroke and My ton, &he was obliged to travel round by Chester^ton and Oakley ; and, at a place, called Fow^d Myl Hill, she was met, in due form, by the BaililT and principal Burgesses, attended by Edward AcLiONBYy the Recorder, Mr. Griffyn, Master of Leicester Hospit a L and others. About three o'clock, her Majesty arrived at the spot, attended by Lady Warwick in the same coach -. and, in other carriages, by all her great oiiicers of state,. Sse the Account cf U-? Pfiorv, l6 IlEMAKKABLE Jimorder' s sprtci't to Qutea Elizabeth. Lords Burleigh, Howard, and others, and by a long train of Lords and Ladies. The royal carriage then drew up a^ near as possible to the place, where the Bailiff and hig company were all reverently kneeling, in their due order ; the Bailiff first, behind him INIr. Griffyn, next the Re- corder, and then the twelve principal Burgesses. After a respectful pause, the Recorder began his oration, which, though be j)romised to be " short of speche," he was hunsdf obliged at last to confess a " lardge one.** It opened with a learned allusion to the ancient Grecian and Uomau panegyricce ; on which, however, he unintention- ally passes the severest censure, by observing that they were all alike commeiidatory , wliether addressed to good or bad princes. He then speaks of the lofty stile proper for an address to a royal personage ; and modestly excuses his own inability for the task assigned him. " The very lookes," he says, of such exalted persons as Alexander THE Great, Caius Marius, Octavius C/esar, " the wise King Henry VII." " the valiant King Henry VIIL" and finally, of her excellent Majesty, then present, must *' appal the stout corages of their beholders." He hopes, therefore, to be excused, if he should be put *' botlie out of countenance and out of remembrance." He then spealvs of the " commendacion, " that might be justly confen*ed on her highness herself, on the " rare vcrtucs of her mynde," on the " wealth of her domy- nyons, " on the prosperous achievement of her noble affaires," not forgetting that flattery, which, he knew, would most of all please, oil " the divyne giftes of her roial })erson." But these fi-uitful topics he declines, for fear of savim? more than her " modest eares could abide." He then shortly details the history of " this towiie of M'arwih, " from early to later times, closing with au OCCURRENCES. 17 Answer of t/ie Queen to the Recordtr. acknowledgment of its great obligations to her gi-and- father, her father, her sister, and most of all, to herself. He next bestows high and just praises upon Ambrose, the good Earl of fVarivick ; and praises, also, equally high, though not surely equally just, upon his detestable brother of Leicester ; whose numerous and horrible crimes seem to have been totally lost to the view of that age, amidst the blaze of brightness, which his own splen- did charities, and the dazzling beams of royal favor threw around him. He then expresses his rejoicing, and that of the whole people of Warwick, " for that it has pleas- ed her to blesse them with her comfortable presence;** and concludes with offering a small present to her Ma- jesty, which he humbly hopes, she Avould condescend to receive, as Alexander was pleased '^ to accept a hand- full of Avater from a poore soldier of his," finally, wishing her " a long and a ])rosperous reign, even to Nestor'ss years, if it so please God I " . After this long oration, Robart Phillippes, ris- ing from his knees, approached the royal carriage : when, again bending in the same humble posture, he tendered to the Queen a purse, "very fairre wrought" containing twenty pounds, "all in souereignes"; which, alter some affected scruples, was condescendingly accepted, and the Bailiff had the honor of kissing her Majesty's hand. Mr. Aglionby had also the same honor ; to whom the Queen thus familiarly expressed herself: " Come hither, little Recorder; it was told me that youe wold be afraid to look upon me, or to speake boldly ; but you were not so f raid of me, as I was of youe, and I now thank you for putting me in niynde of my duety". Her Majesty next offered her grateful acknowledgments to the Burgesses, and c | REMARKABLE Royal Procession to Wanrick Cuslle. all the company present, and then expressed her wish to proceed. But further honors still awaited her ; Mr. Grif- FYN, the preacher, humbly advancing, craved permission, on his bended knees, to offer to her majesty a copy of Latin verses * which he had composed expressly for the occasion ; and which were, also, graciously received, though the Queen declined reading them at that time ; if, indeed, she ever did at all, as, from the story, appears doubtful, The command was now given, and the whole procession moved forAvards, in the following order. First the Bailiff's attendants led the way, 32 in number, dressed " in coates of puke " i. e. grey, " laid on with lace ;" then, the 1 2 principal burgesses, " in gowns of puke, lyned with satten and damask, upon foote clothes;" then, two Bishops followed ; next the Lords of the Coun- cil ; and immediately before the Queen's coach, were the Bailiff] arrayed in scarlet, on the right, and Lord Conijh iQHj as Sheriff oi the county, on the left. With this state, was her Majesty conducted to the Castle, where she continued the remaining pait of Monday, and the whole of Tuesday. On Wednesday, she went, with- out her train of attendants, taking the road through the Priory grounds and the IVoodloes, to Kenilworth Castle, where she Mas sumptuously entertained by the Earl oj Leicester, till Saturday. || On the evening of that day, she returned to JVariciih Castle : and, on the following Sunday, divncing was exhibited for her amusement, in the jiftemoon ; and, in the evening, fire works. These last, which consisted principally of a sort of an attack upon two Thrv may be ctii in I'>ih. Top. Brit. N<>. xrii. P Tlii ivas ilircc jrars hrf^re lier far f:ira?d rnteiuiiiiuenl ilicrc. OCCURRENCES. i^ Visit of Jama 1. and William 111. to Warwick. temporary wooden forts, were attended with some serious accidents. A ball of fire fell on a cottage near the Bridge End, which was instantly reduced to ashes ; and its in- habitants, a poor old man and woman, were with difficulty saved. Two or three cottages adjoining were also des- troyed; and, by a similar accident, four houses in the town were burnt down. The next day, the Queen very graciously sent for the two poor aged sufferers into her presence ; and made them all the reparation which kind words, and a present amounting to about 25^. could do. Whether the other suffereis, in consequence of these royal sports, received any recompence for the injuries they had sustained, does not appear. The ensuing week the Queen spent at Kenilworth, in the company of her favorite ; and on Saturday, returned by Charlecott, to London.* On the 4th of September, 1617* it appears that King James I. honored this town with his presence, and Sir FuLK Greville, then Chancellor of the Exchequer, with his company; by whom a magnificent entertainment was given in the hall of Lord Leicester s Hospital. An inscription, recording the event, is still to be seen in that hall. But of this royal visit no further account has been discovered. In connection with this, though somewhat out of chronological order, we shall mention the honor of another royal visit which fVarivick received from Will. III. in the month of November, 1695. It was then the eve of a general election, and by the advice of his ministers, in order to recommend himself to popular favor, of which that * See " Q. Eli.:. Pfcgrcsses,"' bj Nichols. C 2 3Q REMARKABLE WuTutck Castle garrisoned durinf; the Civii War. great and glorious monarch never enjoyed a share eqaal to his extraordinary merits, he was induced to set out on a tour, through the country ; and to visit the seats of some f the principal nobility. After having witnessed the di- versions of Newtnarket, he honored with his company the Earls of Sunderland, Northampton and Montague ; and afterwards went to Welbech, the seat of the Duke of Newcastle. Thence he proceeded to fVartvick ; and took up his residence at the Castle, which was at that time the seat of Fulk Lord Brooke, posthumous son of the accomplished and patriotic Robert Lord Brooke, who was killed at the siege of Lichjield. From Warwick, the king proceeded to Eye Fort, the seat of the Duke of ShrewS' \)ury ; and, after having visited the university of Oxford, returned to London.* During the unhappy contest between Charles I. and his Parliament, fi^arwlck Castle was regarded as a for- tress of great importance, both from its own strength, and from the situation of it, in the centre of the kingdom. Its noble proprietor, Robert Greville, Lord Brooke, was one of the most active and zealous supporters, on the side of the Parliament and the people : and, by his powerful influence, he carried with him, to the same side, almost the whole of the county. In the months of June and July, l642, under the authority of a parliamentary commission, he assembled the militia of IVarwickshire and Staffordshire', and, as his presence was necessary in London, for the purpose of procuring arms and ammunition, he left Sir Edward Peto, of Chesterton, governor of the Castle, in his absence. Smoiiett, vol, i. p. oG6. OCCURRENCES. 21 I ' I- 1 1 I Slcirmiih near Southam Warwick Castle besieged. Returning from the metropolis with a train of artillery, he was met, at Edgehill, by the Earl of Northampton ^ at the head of a considerable force. Both parties prepared for action ; but, to prevent the effusion of blood, it was at length agreed that Lord Brooke should retire to Ban- hury with his artillery, and that neither party should attempt to remove it thence, without the previous notice of three days. On the faith of this agreement, Lord Brooke went again to London, when instantly the Castle of Banbury was surprized by the Earl of JVorthampton, and the artillery carried off. The Earl then advanced to IVarwick ; and immediately summoned the governor of the Castle to surrender. On his refusal, the siege began* Aug. 7j and w^as continued till Aug. 23, when Lord Brooke marched once more from London, at the head of a powerful body : and, between SoidJiam and Ich'mgton, within 5 miles of IVarwich, found himself once more op- posed by the Earl of Northampton. A skirmish ensued, which terminated to the advantage of Lord Brooke. Tlie Earl of Northampton retired towards the north ; the siege of the Castle was raised ; and Loi^d Brooke entered it, to the great joy of the garrison, who, with slender provision, had defended the place for a whole fortnight. The hooks, upon which wool sacks were suspended, as a means of protecting the walls, during this siege, are still lo be seen over the principal gateway of the Castle. About the end of September, in the same year, when Lord Brooke was still at the Castle, the Eard of * A curious account of this brave defence of Warwick Ca'stle bj Sir Edwaud Ptro, is contained in ii srimil tract piiiitcd in ld4'2, entitled True and new Nees from Whi- ick Castle, with n True Ucliition oi Sir Kdwad Pi;to's liMUging out UU wi.uiiug siiu-t and the Bible in hi'. C'^l-uri at Warvvitk Ciisi!---" 22 REMARKABLE Battk of Edge Hill. Essex arrived, at the head of the parliamentary troops ; and the two commanders immediately advanced, with their united forces, into Worcestershire y in quest of the royal army ; which, however, had turned aside towards Shrews^ hury, and was then making its way from that town into fVaricicksliire. The Earl of Essex prepared to follow it ; whilst Lord Brooke hastened back to Warwick^ to forward some supplies that were necessary. He arrived, accord- ingly, at the Castle, Oct. 22 ; and, on the following day, sent from its magazines several cart-loads of arms and ammunition to the army ; which, in the mean time, had followed the royal forces as far as Kineton, two miles from Edgehills.*^ On that day, Sunday, Oct. 23, l642, was fought, in a vale at the foot of those hills, the first pitched batfle between the forces of the King and those of the Parlia- ment. Whilst resting with his army at Egeat, a village on the borders of Northamptonshire^ in the middle of the preceding night, intelligence from Prince Rupert had been received by the khig, that the enemy's forces were within a few miles ; and it was in consequence immediately re- solved to give them battle the next day. But so little prepared was either party for the encounter, that it was not till 3 o'clock in the afternoon that the battle began. After an equal display of courage, attended with various .success on both sides, the night separated the combatants. The following day neither party discovered any inclination to renew the contest ; and, towards the evening, both retired from the field. * Clakindon* Hist, of the Rebellion, ol. ii. p. 44. ^ toxoNsoN's Account ol the Grerille Familj, p. 9j, OCCURRENCES. 23 Retreat vf the I'urlint/ieyit Arjin/ lo Wuraick. In the early part of this battle. Lord Brooke was not present. Setting out from Warwick, on the very day on which it was fought, the first intelligence he received of it, was on the road, from the crowds, who had been put lo flight by the charge of the king's horse. Upon many he prevailed to return ; and, proceeding with all possible expedition, he arrived time enough to render considera- ble assistance to his party. In the ev^ening of the fol- lowing day, Lords Essex and Brooke marched with their whole army towards fVarwick ; where they remained some time, to refresh themselves, and to prepare for new encounters. These appear to be the principal events, in which the history of the Civil War connects itself, with that of the Town and Castle of Warirlck, 24 HISTORY OF THE Rohnnd Cmy Reynburu, <;Jf. CHAP. III. ^i^totp of ti)e arIiE^ of Wat\i^xck. Saxon Earls Rohand GuyReynburn Wogfat Uffa Wolgeat Wigod Altcine Turchill De Newburgs Henry Roger William Wale- ran Henry Thomas John de Plessites William Manduil Beau- champs William Guy Thomas Thomas Richard Henry Ne- ville Richard Plantagenets George Edward Dudleys John, Ambrose Rich Robert Robert Robert Charles Robert Ed~ ward Edward Henry Gkevilles Fulk Robert Francis Robert Fulk Fulk William Francis George. In connection with the history of Warwick Castle, which forms of course a leading object in the present work, it will be proper to give some brief notices of its noble pos- sessors : and this is what we shall now attempt, beginning with the earliest, and proceeding to the latest times. I. ^Qx\^ of tlje j&ajtron ^att. Of the reputed Earls of the Saxon race, little is related, worthy of credit. The first whose name is re- corded is Rohand, a successfiil warrior, in the days of Alfred. His only daughter was Felicia, married, as the story tells, to the famous Guy, who, in her right, became Earl of JVarwich. This renowned champion is said to have been the son of SiwARD, Baron of IValUngford, Yet the Welch EARLS OF WARWICK. 2i. (ji/i/s Combat with t/ie Danish Chtn/ijuou, claim the lionor of numbering him, amongst their own heroes of British extraction. According to vulgar belief, he was of gigantic height, exceeding nine feet. Amongst other instances of his prowess, it is related that he slew a Saracen giant, in single combat; and killed, with his own arm, a Avild boar, a dun cow of enormous size, and even a green dragon.* Some very old histories of GuY speak of the dragon, but omit the circumstance of colour. The Saracen Giant, above mentioned, was Col- brand, chosen by the Danish invaders as their champion to decide the contest between them and the English, ac- cording to the proposal made to Athelstan, the Saxon monarch, and accepted by him. The celebrated Guy, returning from a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, at that instant, arriAcd in England. Pointed out to the king, it is said, by an angel in a dream, as the chosen hero of England, tho' disguised in the habit of a pilgrim, he \v:as entreated to accept the challenge, and finally consented. On the day of battle, the two champions appeared, fully accoutred, in the appointed tield, near Winchester. Col- brand was so heavily armed, that his horse could scarcely support his weight. Soon after the first encounter, the giant cut off the head of Guy's horse. But, in a fresh attack, as Colbrand was stooping to take up his sword, of which he had lost hold, Guy seized the favorable opportunitv, and, with one mighty blow, stmck ofi* his riii'ht hand. Yet the giant continued to fight with the other hand till, in tlie evening, faint with the loss of blood, he was obliged to yield ; and the English hero was * See the Legend of Guy E. of Warwick. Sea aho in Dodsi.et's Eelhinci of Ancient Eng. Poetry, " A Plcasaiii Song of ihe valiant Deeds of Sir Guy ot Warwick." D 2(5 HISTORY OF THE Guys Armour preserved Truth of his Story disputed. declared victorious. After the battle, Guy first made himself known, under an oath of secrecy, to the Saxon monarch; and then retired to Gui/s Cliff] near IVarwick; where he Kved the life of a hermit, without discovering himself even to his wife Felicia, who resided at the Castle, till near his death, which happened in 929. Colbrand's battle axe was formerly preserved in Winchester Cathedral. Guy's armour, so called, still remains ; and is to be seen, as well as the vertebrae of the Wild Boar, and the ribs of the Dun Cow, in the Porter's Lodge, at the entrance of IVarwick Castle as will be distinctly noticed hereafter. One of the rooms of the castle was formerly adorned with arras, in which the story of the battle was represented. This suit of arras, together with the armour of the great champion, was, for many generations, bequeathed, as an heir-loom, in the family of the Beauchamps, and other Earls of IVarwick ; and in the reign of Henry VIH, the custody of the sword was granted by patent to William Hoggeson, yeo- man of the buttery, with a salai-y of 2d. per day. The story ol Guy, as above recited, is received as true by several authors of high celebrity, as Rous, Leland, Camden, Heylin, and Dugdale ;* yet, it must now be added, that many great and weighty, even insurmountable objections, have been opposed to its credibility, particularly in a memoir by Dr. Pegge, read to the Society of Anti- quaries, May 7} '^7^7 i to which we must refer the curious reader,^ Upon the whole, that there was a renowned warrior, of the name of Guy, of large size and c^reat Lei. liin. i. 63 Caiud. Brit. Col. l43. He yli n's History of St. George, p. 65 DvoBALX, p. 183. $ Bibliolb. Tugopr. BriUn. Nu. zvii. EARLS OF WARWICK. . %l Successors of Guy Origin of *' tht Bear and Ragged Staff." prowess, living in the Saxon times, the fair and reasonable enquirer will, probably, not be disposed to deny; but that he was Earl of JVarwichy he will hesitate to admit ; and the account of his combat with the Danish Giant, and most of the other wonderful accounts related of him, he will certainly reject, with decided conviction, as the tales of monkish delusion or imposture. Of the reputed successors of Guy, in the Earldom of IFiarwick, (if he ever attained that dignity,) so little is known, that a bare enumeration of their names may here be thought sufficient. The first is said to have been Reyn- BURN, in the reign of Athelstan ; the second Wegeat, in that of Edgar ; the third Ufa, in that of Edward the Martyr; the fourth Wolgeat, in that of Ethelred; the fifth Wi GOD, in that of Edmund; the sixth Alwyne, iii that of Edward the Confessor; and the last, Turchill, of whom some notice has already been taken.* We shall only subjoin, here, the account, which Rous has given, of the origin of the device, a bear and ragged stajf] adopted by the Earls of PFarwick, as ensigns of their dignity, from the earliest periods. The former, he says, was taken fi'om the name of one of the British Earh of IFarwlck, Arthal, which signifies in the British language a Bear: and, when another British Earl, named MoRVi, had vanquished a giant in a duel, with a young tree plucked up by the roots, and stripped of its branches, in token of that event, to the bear was added the ragged staff. This badge of distinction, adopted by many of the successive families, was re-assumed by the first of the present Earls, Francis Greville, in the year 1760. See page 6. D 2 128 HISTORY OF THE Henri/ Roger Witliaw Wultrun fie Nniburg. II. familp of tlje jIfcMurffjB?.* Henry de Newburg was the first Earl of Norman extraction. With that dignity, he received from the CoNftUEROR the Castle, the Manor, and the Royalty of the Borough, then vested in the Crown. It was hy him that IVedgnock Park was begun, and the Priory founded. He died 1123. Roger de Newburg, his eldest son and snccessor, was one of the witnesses to the laws of St. Stephen, and one of the supporters of Maude, against that King. By him the Priory was completed, and St. Marys made a Collegiate Church. By him, also, the Hospital of St. Michael, for Lepers, in the Salsford, and the House of the Templars, near the Bridge, were founded. He was greatly distinguished by his piety, displayed, according to the pre- vailing notions of the times, in large donations to religious houses, and freqnent visits to the Holy Land. He died, happy in the high reputation he had acquired and de- served, 1153. William de Newburg, his eldest son, was the third Earl. He founded two Hospitals in IVariciclx, St- Johns and St. Thomas' ; and built and endowed a Church for the Templars. He died in the Holy Land, 1 184. Waleran de Newburg, brother of William, was the fourth Earl. He died 1205. Henry de Newburg, his eldest son, the fifth * III ki'tcliiiig these sliort biograpliical notices, great ue hat l)ocn made of Edmonson's '' Account of ilie GntviLLt Fainil^r " to which woik recourse may be liad hy thojc, wlio witL fot mors I'uriivular accounts, or foi r^fc-reiicea lu ihc proper ftuitiuriiits. EARLS OF WARWICK. 29 Hniry ihomns de Neichurg John de FIcssetis Wiliunn Mcuduit. Earl, was attached to the part of King John in all his contests with the Barons. He died 1229. Thomas de Newburg, sixth Earl, died without issne, 1242, leaving Margery, his sister, heir to the Earldom, who was married to John de Plessetis, a Xorman, and the distinguished favorite of Henry HI. John de Plessetis took upon himself the title of Earl of JVarwich, in right of his wife ; and afterwards received from the King, the title of Comes irarwkl. He died 1262, without issue. His Countess was beneficent; and among other acts of charit\% bestoAved upon the poor of fVarwicJi, a Common Pasture, called Clai/ Pits, on the west side of the Town. WILLIA^f Mauduit, grandson of Waleran, by his daughter Alice, succeeded as the next heir to the Earldom. He was one of the adherents of Henry HI. in his wars with the Barons ; and was sui'prized in his Castle at Warwick, by John Giffard, Goveraor of Keniluovth Castle. The walls of his Castle were destroyed from tower to tower ; himself and his Counters were carried prisoners to Kenilicorth ; and he was obliged to pav for his ransom I900 marks. He died without issue 1267 ; leaving as heiress, Isabel, his sister, who was married to William de Beauchamp, Baron of Elmleu, in JVorcestershire. III. family of tljc 25caucljamp.sf, At the time of the conquest, the Beaia/uinips were considered as one of the principal Xorman Families. They received from their royal master, on his advancement to the 30 HISTORY OF THE William Gui/ Thomas de Beuuc/iamp. English Tlirone, great addition of power and possession ; and still greater accnied to them from the marriage of William, one of the family, to Isabel, in her own right Countess of IVaruick. It appears, however, that Isabel had previously taken the monastic vow ; and that neither she, nor her husband, according to the custom of the times, assumed the dignity to which they were entitled. William de Beauchamp, their eldest son, there- fore, even in the lifetime of his parents, received the title of Earl of IFarwick. He was greatly distinguished by the eminent services, which he rendered to his country, in various civil and military employments, for 26 years, in the reign of Edward I. He died 1298, and was buried in the Chapel of Worcester Cathedral, where his tomb still remains. Guy de Beauchamp, his eldest son, succeeded to the Earldom. At the battle of FalMrk he obtained high distinction, and received, for his reward, by royal grant, large possessions in Scotland. It was this Earl who seized the person of Gaveston, the royal favourite, and caused him to be beheaded on BlacJdow Hill. Though he afterwards obtained the King's pardon, he was never again received into favor. He died, as some say, by poison, 1315. Thomas de Beauchamp, his eldest son, besides other hiiili and important offices, was created Sheriff of IFanviclshire S^ Leicestershire for life, and Earl Marshal of England. He attended the king in his Scottish and iMViich wars ; and was one of the commanders under the liLAc:: Prince, v,1io led the van of the English army in the EARLS OF WARWICK. 31 2'fie second Thomas de Beaucliump. celebrated battle of Cressy ; and greatly distinguished himself, also, in the equally celebrated battle of Poictiers. He afterwards attended Prince Edward, in an expedi- tion against the Infidels to the Holy Land. His ardor, however, for military achievements abroad, did not pre- vent his attention to ilhe welfare of his own country, and particularly to the improvement of his paternal abode and his native town. He rebuilt the walls of the Castle, w^hich in Earl Mauduifs time had been demolished ; added strong gates ; and fortified the entrance, with em- battled towers. He founded, also, the choir of the Col- legiate Church; built a Booth Hall, in the 3farket-place ; and made the town toll-free. His last exploit wan an ex- pedition for the relief of the English army, reduced to the greatest difficulties before Calais ; in which, he completely succeeded. But here his career of glory was suddenly arrested ; and, by a fever, he was brought to the grave, 1370. His body was conveyed to his native town, and buried in the middle of the choir of St. Mary's, where his tomb still remains, with his effigy and that of his countess, who died before him, admirably executed in white marble. He had seven sons, and ten daughters, whose portraits were formerly to be seen in the windows on the south side of the chancel of the same church ; but they have long since disappeared. Thomas de Beauchamp, the second son, in conse- quence of the previous death of his elder brother, Guy, succeeded as heir to the earldom. He was ajipointed by the Parliament, governor to Richard II. during his minoritv : and was ever after highly and honorably distinguished by a firm opposition to the unjust and impolitic measures of his unworthy favorites. Dismissed, with the rest of his great .32 HISTORY OF THE The second Thomas Richard dc Beouchainp. officers, from the court, when the young king assumed the, government, the Earl oj IVarwick retired to his Castle ; where he spent some years, occupied in building and other improvements, suited to the extent of his fortune and the hberality of his spirit. By him, the noble tower at the north-east corner was built, and called, in honor of the Saxon hero, Guy's Tower. By him, also, the body of St. Marys Church, in 1314, was completed. But though peaceful and retired, ocaipied only in works of pu])lic utility; he was still an object of resentment to the king. The misguided monarch had already eifected the death of his uncle, the Duhe of Gloucester ; and he now formed designs against the life of his late Governor. Invited to a royal feast, his person was seized ; and, by a senile parliament, sentence of death was pronounced upon him. At the solicitation of the Eai'l of' Salisbury , the sentence was afterwards changed, to that of forfeiture of title and estate, and banishment to the Isle of Man. Thence, however, he was soon brought to London, and committed a close prisoner to the Tower; where he remained till the Revolution, which placed Henry IV. upon the thione, happily restored him to his liberty, and to all his lost rights. He died 1401, and was buried with his countess, in the south part of St. Marys Church. Their monument was destroved by the great tire ; but their portraits, engraven on a brass plate, were recovered, and placed against the Avail near the same spot. Richard de Beauchamp, the only son and suc- cessor of the late Earl, was one of the most considerable personages of the age, in which he lived. He was made Knight of the Biitb, at the coronation of Henry IV ; and was engaged in almost all the j)rincipal transactions EARLS OF WARWICK. 5^ Henry de Beaucfiatnp, Dul^e of Warwicky King of the Isle of Wight. of his reign. In 1408, he visited the Holy Sepulchre, foUbVved by a splendid retinue. Besides other honours, he was created Earl of Albemarle, expressly &,s a recom- pence for his bravery at the sieges of Caen, RoueHj arid other places. In 1418, he successfully negociated a treaty of marriage, between Henry V. and Catherinje daughtei* of Charles VL By the will of that prince, he was appointed governor to his infant son, Henry VI. ; and, on the death of the Duke of Bedford, was called to succeed him as Regent of France. He died at the Castle of Rouen, 1 439 ; ^^^j according to his directions, his body was brought over to England in a stone coffin, and placed before the altar in St. Mary's Chancel; till the chapel, begun by himself, should be completed, to which his re- mains were then to be removed, and where a stately monument was to be erected to his memory. All this was done by his executors ; and the monument, finely executed, is still in good preservation. Amongst other acts of liberality, this nobleman rebuilt the Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene at Guys Cliff'; established a Chantry there ; and erected the statue of the famous Guy, which still remains. Henry de Beauchamp, the eldest son of Richard, at the age of 14, became Earl of Warwick; and soon obtained the highest place in the favor of the reigning monarch ; who heaped upon him, with lavish hand, all the honors which royalty had to bestow. He was first created premier Earl of England; then Duke of 1Var~ wick ; and, finally, with unheard-of extravagance, was declared and crowned King of the Isle of Wight. But all his honours could not secure him from an early grave. He died 1445, at the age of 22, in his Castle of Hanky, E 34 HISTORY OF THE J ' Richard Neville, the Stout Earl of Waruick. fVorcestershire : and was buried in the Ahhey Church of Tewkesbury, near the tomb of Edward, son and heir of Henry VI. He married Cicely, daughter of Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury. By her he had only one daughter, who died in her infancy; and thus her aunt Ann became the heir to the Earldom, and the great inhe- ritance of the family. IV. f amilp of ^t\n\\t. Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury, grandson of Ralph Earl of Westmoreland, and Joan daughter of John of Gaunt, Duhe of Lancaster, married Ann, sister to the late Duke Henry ; and, in right of his wife, assumed the title of Earl of Warwick, which was after- wards confirmed by letters patent. He is known, in Eng- lish history, by the name of the '* Stout Earl, or the King Maker" " He was the greatest, as well as the last," says Hume, " of those mighty Barons, who formerly ^ over-awed the Crown, and rendered the people inca- " pable of any regular system of government."* In the beginning of the dispute between the houses of Kork and Lancaster, he took the side of the former ; and was the means of placing the Earl of March upon the throne, with the title of Edward IV. Constantly engaged in all the violent contests and intestine wars of these unhappy times; at length, April 14, 1471, he was slain, in the battle of Barnet, fighting at the head of his soldiers, in favor of Henry VI. whom, a few years before, he had dethroned. He was buried with his ancestors at Bisham, Berks. He left two daughters, his only issue : Isabel married to George Duke of Clarence ; and Ann married, * HvuE T. iii. p. 182. EARLS OF WARWICK. 35 George Fiantagenet Edward Plantagenet. first to Edward Prince of Wiales, and next to Richard DuJce of Gloucester, afterwards King Richard III. His Countess, who sumved him many years, being despoiled of all her estates, lived and died in the greatest privacy and distress. Once, indeed, for a moment, she was re- called from her obscurity, and re-instated in the possession of her family inheritances. But this was only for the? cruel purpose of making her the instrument of transferring, with some sheAv of legal form, the whole of her immense estates to the Crown ; which was accordingly done, by special deed, in the 3d of Henry VII. V. family of plantagenet, George Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence, in con- sequence of his maniage with Isabel, eldest daughter of Richard Neville, was created Earl of Warwich, by his brother Edward IV. His chief residence was at JVarwick Castle. Here he projected vast plans of enlarging and improving both the town and the castle, some part of which he accomplished ; the rest was prevented by his death. Having incurred tlie suspicion of his brother, he was sent to the Tower ; attainted by the Parliament of high treason , and, according to his own strange choice of the mode of death, was drowned in a butt of malmsey.* He was buried near his dutchess, who died of poison, not long before. Edward Plantagenet, son of George, succeeded to the Earldom of fVarwich. Unfortunate almost from So the story of liis death is told hy Hume, Rapin, and most of the roodcra Hisloriant. But the account teems to depend chiefly, if not entirely, on tiie evidence uf Fabia!*; vrho lived, indeed, at the time, but was then very ^ounsr. The other con- temporary Historians say only that be was privatclij extciiled in the Towtr. E 2 36 HISTORY OF THE John Dudley Ambrose Dudley. his birth, he was nursed, and lived the greatest part of his short life, in a prison. During the reign of his nnclc Rich. HI. he was confined at the castle of Sheriff' Hutton, in Yorkshire ; and after the death of that prince, in the Field of Bosworth, he was removed by Henry VH. to the Tower of London, Here, his sufferings were of no long duration. He was accused, upon the most frivolous pre* tences, of entering into the conspiracy of Perkin War- beck ; and, in the 25th year of his age, was beheaded on Tower-hill, 1499. After his death, the title of Earl of IVarwick lay dormant, 48 years. VI. f amtlp of SDutilcp. John Dudley, Lord Viscount Lisle, was a des- cendant of the eldest daughter of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of tVarwich. His father, for his oppressions and extortions, had suffered decapitation, in the reign of Hen. VIII. The son was, however, soon afterwards restored in blood ; created, first. Lord Viscouiit Lisle ; then Earl of IVarwick ; and, finally, raised to the dignity of Duke of Northumberland. But, after the death of his royal master, Henry VIII. failing in an attempt to elevate to the throne. Lady Jane Grey, wife of his son. Lord Guildford Dudley, he was beheaded 22d August, 1553. Ambrose Dudley, son of John, who had been restored in blood, was in 1557, created Viscount Lisle, and Earl oj IVarwick ; and at the same time, obtained a grant of the castle, manor, and borough of IVarwick, together with other estates, which, in consequence of his father's attainder, had escheated to the Crown. He died in 1589 ; ^"^^ ^'^'''^'' buned in the Beauchamp Chapel, where a noble monument, erected to bis memory, still EARLS OF WARWICK. 37 Robert Robert Robert Rich. remains, in excellent preservation. He manied three wives; but left no issue ; and thus the title became a second time extinct. One title, however, belongs, by universal consent, to this nobleman, which, if justly bestowed, must for ever remain ; and which, if men were truly wise, would always be regarded as the highest and most enviable of all ^that of the Good Earl of IVarwick. VII. ipamilpofilicli* Robert Lord Rich, was the first of this family, who, in the year 16I8, by the favor of James I. received the title of Earl of Warwick. But he did not long enjoy his new dignity ; within only a few months after his elevation to it, he died. Robert, his eldest son, succeeded him. He was created Lord High Admiral of England; but, though not destitute of abilities, he displayed little knowledge of naval affairs. He was a man of sprightly gaiety, of varied and pleasing conversation; and possessed, in a high degree, the charms of agreeable and fascinating manners. Under much affected piety, he endeavoured to conceal still more real profligacy ; and though he was considered in that age, as the head of the godli/ party, his real place, it is feared, must be fixed amongst the irreligious and the licen- tious. He died, l658, Robert, his eldest son, who became the next Earl, enjoyed his title and honors only one year ; and lied, without male issue, 1659. Charles, his brother, as next heir, succeeded to the earldom. His only son was married to Frances, S9 HISTORY OF THE Robert Edward Edward Henrij Rich Fulk Grevit/e. youngest daughter of Oliver, Lord Protector : but died before his father. RoBEHT, Earl of Holland^ cousin oH Charles, was the next Earl. He died 1689. Edward, his son, succeeded to the title and honors of Earl of Warwick and Holland , and died 1701. Edward Henry, the last of the Earls ot this family, dying without issue, 1759j the title of Earl of Warwich, became a third time extinct. vni. spamiip of tifte * 1, Francis Robert Greville t/iird and fourth Lord Brooke. soon ceased ; and he hastened to dislodge Lord Ches- terfield from his position at Lichfield. At the head of 1,200 horse and foot, he speedily drove his enemy from the town, into the close of the Cathedral ; and this place he instantly prepared to assault. But, whilst he was in the act of looking out of the window of a house, in order to give some directions, he was shot in tlie light eye, by a bullet; and immediately died, March 1, l642 leaving behind him a character for talents, for courage, and for many great and amiable qualities, which his friends have ever affectionately admired, and which even his adversaries have candidly acknowledged, and impartially applauded.* He left ijjsue by his wife, five sons, Francis, Robert, Edward, Algernon, and Fulke ; of whom the third and fourth died early, and the other three succeeded to the title. Francis Greville, the eldest son of Robert, was the third Lord Brooke ; but enjoyed his dignity only a few months. He died unmarried, 1642. Robert Greville, the second son, succeeded his brother as Lord Brooke. He was one of the six Peers sent to Charles H. in Holland, by the House of Peers, to present their humble petition that his majesty would be pleased to return. He was appointed Lord Lieutenant of the county of Stafford, High Steward of Stafford, and of Sir atfo7^d-on- Avon ; and in the new Charter granted to the Corporation, was constituted Recorder of IFarivich. * Dugdale's Bar. v. ii. p. 443. Clarendon, t. ii. p. 149. Baxtxh's Sdintj' Rest. p. 82, 83. Edit. 1649. Milton's Proie Works, v. i. p 1 33. Ma- t;*ULir, t. iii. p. 414. Wood's Atb. Oxon. F 43 HISTORY OF THE Vulke Vulke WiUiam^lfth, sixth, and seventh Lord Brooke. He contributed much to the embellishments of the Cas- tle, and fitted up magnificently its suite of State Apafrt- ments. He died at Bath, 16/6, leaving no male issue. FuLKE Greville, his youngest brother, succeeded to his title and estates. On the renewal of the Charter, he was appointed Recorder of H^arwick for life. He died at Twickenham, 1710. By his wife Sarah, daughter of Sir Francis Dashwood, Knight, he had seven sons and four daughters. Of these his eldest son, Francis, married Ann, daughter of John Wilmot, Esq. but died before his father, leaving issue two sops, Fulke, and William. FuLKE Greville Lo?'d Brooke, survived his father and grandfather only five months. He died at Oxford, 1711, unmarried. William Greville succeeded to the title on the ffecease of his elder brother ; and, on coming of age, was chosen Recorder of IVainvick. He married Ann daughter and coheir of Thomas Thynne, Esq. ; and died July 28, I722, leaving his honors and estates to Francis, his third, but only surviving son. Francis Greville succeeded to the title of Lord Brooke, when he was but eight years old. Soon after coming of age, he was chosen Recorder of H'^arwic];. In May, 1742, he married the Hon. Elizabeth Hamilton^ eldest daughter of Lord Archibald Hamilton, son of William, Duke of Hamilton. By this Lady he had three sons, Geor6e, who succeeded him; Charles-Francis, who died unmarriedj 1809; Robert-Fclke, afterwards Groom EARLS OF WARWICK. '4^ Francis GrevcUe, eighth Lord Brooke, (he first Earl of Waiwick. of the Bedchamber to the King, who married Louisa, Countess of Mansfield; and five daughters, Louisa- Augusta, married to Wm. Churchill, Esq. ; Frances- Elizabeth, married to the late Sir H. Harper ; Char- lotte-Mary, married to John, Eml of Galloway ; Isabella, who died in infancy ; and Anne, who died in 1783. In the year 1/46, Francis Lord Brooke was raised to the dignity of an Earl, by the title of Earl Brooke. On the death of the Duke of Montague in 1/49, he was appointed Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of the County of Warwick; and in 17^3, he was created Knight of the most ancient Order of the Thistle. On the 13th Nov. 1759, he was advanced by George II. to the further dignity of Earl of Warwick ; and afterwai ms obtained a grant to himself and to his descendants, to bear the ancient crest of the hear and rugged staff. His Lordship died July 6, 1773- The Manor of Warwick, which, after the death of Ambrose Dudley, had remained in the possession ot the crown, until granted by Charles I. to the Corporation of London, and by them sold to Wm. Bolton, Esq. oi London, was purchased of his family by this Eay^l, in the year 1742; and was, thus, again united to the Castle. George Greville, Earl Brooke and Warwick, Haron Brooke, of Beauchamp Court, in Warwickshire ; Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulonim of the County; Recorder of Warwick ; Fellow of the Rpyal Society ; succeeded his father 177-'^' ^^^ ^^^ 1st of April, 1771, he married Georgiana, only daughter of James Lord Sclsetj, who died April 1, 1772, leaving one son George, who also died at the age of 14. His Lordship again married July 9, 177^, Henrietta, daughter of Richard Vernon, F 2 44 HISTORY OF, &c. George Greville, the present Earl of Warwick. Esq. and of Evelyn, Countess of Upper Ossory, and sister to Granville, Marquis of Stafford. By this Lady his Lordship has had three sons, and five daughters : Henry, Lord Brooke, Colonel of the Warwickshire Mili- tia, and Member for the Borough of JVarwich, in three successive Parliaments ; Charles, Lieutenant-Colonel of the 38th regiment of foot ; Robert, who died July l6, 1802; Elizabeth, who died Jan. 23, 1806; Henrietta, married to Thomas Scott, Earl of Clonmell ; Caroline ; Augusta Louisa; and Charlotte. SCrmortal $5earingi0f Arms. Sable, on a cross, within a border ingrailed, or, five pellets. Crests. Out of a ducal coronet, gules, a swan with wings expanded, argent, beaked, of the first. And on a wreath of his colours, a bear erect, argent, muzzled, gules, supporting a ragged staff of the first. Supporters. Two swans, with wings expanded, argent, legged, sable, beaked, and ducally collared, gules. Mot- to, f^ix ea nostra voco. PRESENT STATE, &c. 45 Situation of the ToTon. CHAP. lY. ^re^ent ,^tate of f^arluicft* Situation Principal Streets Improvements after the Great Fire Recent Improvements Paving Flagging Lighting Trade Markets Public Amusements Population Corporate Body Number of Electors Prin- cioal Inns Banks Daily Posts Land and Water Communication Geographical Position Surrounding Roads (Objects of curiosity in the Vicinity' J\ OTHING can well be imagined more happily chosen, than the situation of IVarwich; "in which" says Dug- dale," this town may justly glory beyond any other," "It ** stands on a main rocky hill," *rising in every direction, particularly in that of east and west : and the ascent, M'hich marks the immediate approach into the town, terminates in the central streets. In one of the oldest descriptions of PFarwick, it is remarked that "the entrance " into it is, by four roads, leading by as many religious " houses, thro' a rock, over a current of water." The works of nature are not frail and transient, in an equal de- gree at least, as those of art : and whilst the same rocks still rise and the same currents still flow, all the religious edifices, here alluded to, have either ceased to exist, or have long since been converted to different purposes. The four roads, however, are, probably, the same as the present roads to Birmingham, Stratford, Coventry, and Banbury. * Leland. $ They were, probablv, Sf. Mic/irter* ill the Saltsforfi; S;. Latvrevce's in the Weit Strtet ; 5t. John't near the Coton-End ; and St. Helen's near the Bridge-End. 46 PRESENT STATE > ' ' M^ ^ lining ^MMM . Tract of counlrij surrounding the Town. The fine rocky eminence on which the town stands, is itself seated in the midst of a spacious and beautiful amphitheatre, formed by a circuit of hills, gently rising, at the distance of about two or three miles, and bounding its prospect on every side ; except to the north-east, where the view extends into Northamptonshire; and to the south-west, Avhere it opens over a vast expanse of country, terminated by the Gloucestershire vaA f^orcesters hire hi\h. This whole surrounding tract is naturally fertile, and highly cultivated ; intersected every where with remark- ably fine hedges, to which great attention is paid ; richly Ipmbellished with flourishing trees and woods ; and beau- tifully watered by the meanderings of the Avon, which is here a considerable stream, and its tributary river, the Leam, Avhich joins it near fVaimick. This delightful situation is further recommended by the salubrity of its atmosphere, which is pure, dry, and so warm, that the seasons are usually a fortnight earlier here, than in many places not more distant than twenty or thirty miles. ** The beauty and glory of fFarwick,'' says Le- JLAND, " is in two streets, whereof one is called the High " Street, and goeth from the East Gate to the West, " having a right goodly cross in the middle of it ; the *' other crosseth the middle of it, making a quadrivium, " and goeth from north to south. " The cross has long ago been removed ; but the principal streets still retain the same direction ; and continue to deserve, in the same degree, the praise of spacious and handsome streets. Since the days of Leland, who flourished about the year 1530, as may well be supposed, the town has witnessed many and great changes, especially in consetjuence of the dreadful fire which, in 16.94, destroyed bo large a part of it. OF WARWICK. 47 Principal Streets Recent Improvements. But this calamity, deplorable as it was at the time, proved in the end truly beneficial. For, from its ashes, the town once more arose, erected upon -a plan of greater spaci-^ onsness, regularity and beauty : and thus, in its improved appearance, and especially in its superior convenience and healthfnlness, the most important advantnges have been secured, and transmitted down to all its future inhabitants. But notwithstanding these great advantages of appearance and situation, IVarwick has long been consi- dered and described as a place, remarkable for dull inac- tivity, and for the careless inattention of the inhabitants to all that might obviously contribute to its improvement, and its embellishment. This reproach stands recorded against it in many publications, both in prose and poetry.* But it will now be allowed, we think, that such reproaches if ever just, are so no longer, or at least are becoming less so every day : and that there is the fairest ])rospect of seeing IFarwich rise to a distinguished rank amongst the most considerable county towns of England. The inha- bitants have lately displayed their spirit and liberality, a* well as their taste, in many great and important improve- ments ; of which the last, though not the least, is the culverting, fliigging and paving of all the principal streets. This is now substantially and handsomely done, at the expence of upwards of ^5,000. the whole of which was defrayed by voluntary subscription. During the winter months, the town is also lighted, the expence of which is defrayed out of the funds of the coii^oration. The streets are of ample breadth; and bnilt with considerable S'j AppenUiK, Ny, r>. 48 PRESENT STATE Tr (ide Markets Public Amusements. attention to uniformity. Most of the nan'ower parts liave been widened; and almost every inconvenient ob- stniction or unsightly appearance removed. Many of the private houses are modem and handsome ; many of the shops are newly fronted, and tastefully fitted up ; and all the public edifices are at once substantial and ornamental. In short, by these and other improvements, conducted both with spirit and judgment, Warwick has been gi'eatly raised in its general appearance and character: and may now fairly claim to be described, not only as a neat, airy, and cleanly ; but also, to a certain extent, as a spacious, regular, handsome and flourishing Town. With no pretension to rank amongst the larger commercial or manufacturing towns of England, IFar- tvick may yet boast of some considerable share of trade, which is in a progressive state: and of exhibiting a little more than formerly of that stir and bustle, which trade usually produces. Its markets, held every Saturday, which were formerly inconsiderable, are now large, well- supplied, and numerously attended. The Canal lately completed from Birmingham to this place, and continued thence to Napton, where it joins the Oxford^ and with it the Grand Junction Canal; the two Cotton, the Lace, and especially the Worsted Manvfactory , lately esta- blished, upon a large scale, by some ingenious and en- terprising individuals, have already contributed nmch to its chearful activity and growing population. The assizes, the quarter sessions, the several fairs amounting to twelve in a year ; the horse races in September, followed bv a second in November; the winter assemblies, the occasio- nal theatrical amusements, the long-established and Avell- buppoited hunt, lately under the direction of Mr. Corbet, OF WARWICK. 49 Population Municipal Government. now of Lord Middleton, whose principal center is in its vicinity ; and above all, the numerous and fashionable resort of nobility and gentry, attracted either by the fame of its magnificent Castle, or by the celebrity of the medicinal Springs at Leamington, a rapidly-rising water- ing-place, in its neighbourhood all these circumstances have concurred to give a considei'able and an increasing life and spirit to the place. Upon the whole, if we may hazard a prediction, founded on the experience of only a few past years, IVarwick bids fair, perhaps at no very distant period, to all its other attractions, to add those of numerous and handsome shops, lively and bustling streets, increased and improved buildings, and an enlarged and thriving population. In the time of Dr. Thomas, whose edition of Dugdales fVarwichshire was published in 1/30, the number of houses were, in the parish of St. Mary 676, and in that of St. Nicholas 240. According to the last Census, taken by order of government, in 1811, in St. Mary's parish were, inhabited houses 960 famiUes 1059 males 2272 females 268 1, In St. Nicholas' parish inhabited houses 29 1 families 376 males 740 females 804. The total population, therefore, will be 6497 persons. The municipal government of the town is vested in a mayor, a recorder, 12 aldermen, and 12 principal burgesses, with a town clerk ; who have power to make laws for the regulation of the borough, and to impose reasonable fines and penalties upon all offenders. The first recorder appointed by the present charter was Fulke Lord Brooke, and the recorder at tliis time is, his des- cendant, the present Earl of JVarwick. G 50 PRESENT STATE Right of Election Public Buildings Churches. This borough sends two members to Parliament, as already noticed. The right of election depends on th payment of certain rates to the church and poor, com- monly called scot and lot. The number of electors is about 500. The present members are, the Rt. Hon. Lord Brooke, and Charles Mills, Esa. The principal public edifices are, The County Hall, The County Gaol, The County Bridewell, The Courts House, and The Marltet-House. The churches are two, St. Marys, and St. Nicliolas. St. James" Chapel, at the lower end of the High-street is private, and belongs to Leicester's Hospital; and that of St. Peter's, at the east- ern extremity of Jury-street, has long been used for the purposes of a Charity School. There are places of worship belonging to the different classes of Dissenters, the Presbyterian, the Quaker, the Independent, the Baptist, and the Westleyan. The principal Inns are, the Warwich Arms, the Black Swan, and the fVoolpack. At the latter, the Post- Office is established. There are two Banks ; of which, the finn of the first is, " Tomes, Russell, Tomes, and Russell;'* that of the second, "Whitehead, Weston, AND Greenway." In Jury-street, is a News-Room ; and near the Market Place, a Public Library, respectably supported by annual subscription. A Newspaper is pub- lished weekly. The Post from Coventry, and the north-eastern parts of the countiy, arrives every day at eleven, and that from London, at about the same hour. The former returns at twelve, the latter at tliree. There are com- OF WARWICK. 51 Geographical Position Surrounding Roads. munications, by coaches, with Birmingham, Coventry^ Leicester, Gloucester, Bristol, and London; and, by waggon, with these, and most other places in the king- dom. The Birmingham and Warwick Canal opens a communication by water, with all the northern parts ; and the IVarwick and Napton Canal with all the southern parts of the kingdom. The geographical situation of IVarwich is 52. 4. N. Lat. 1. 35. W. Long. The distance from London is ^3 miles, bearing N. W. and from some of the principal surrounding places the distances are as follows ; from Leamington, 2 miles ; from Kenilworth, 5 ; from Coventry 10; from Rugby, 15; from Southam, 9; Daventry, 20;. Kington, \\ ', Banbury, 20; Stratford, 8 ; Knowle, 10; and Birmingham, 21. The roads in Warivichshire are remarkably good; and those in the neighbourhood of fVarwick are some of the best in the kingdom. Nothing can easily exceed, in all that contributes to the pleasure of a fine ride, the road from Stratford through fVarwick to Coventry ; and there are other roads, singularly pleasant, in various directions round the town. Amongst the numerous objects of at- traction, besides the Castle, in the town itself; there are, in its vicinity, Guy's-Cliff, Ruins of Kenilworth Castle, Stoneleigh Abbey, Charlcott House, Combe Abbey ; and, at the distance of eight miles, is Stratford-on-Avon, dis- tinguished as the place where England's favorite Poet, " sweetest Shakespeare, Fancy's child," was born, and where he died. g2 53 PERAMBULATION High Street Bank Warwick Arms Presbyterian Chapel. CHAP. V. 3^etamBuktxon of D^attoitli* High Street Cow Lane West Street Jury Street Smith Street St. John's Coton-Endfhe Butts Back Hill Castle Gates Mill Street-Bridge End Castle Street Church Street North Gate Street Priory Park Entrance Oil Mill Lane Sallsford Market Place New Street Bowlins Green Friar iMne Race Course. X N taking a more particular survey of IVarwich or in guiding the walk of the stranger through it we may observe, that what Leland calls the High Street, is now divided into two : of which, that which runs in a w esterly direction alone retains the name, and is one of the best in the town. Most of the houses here are good ; and some, large and handsome. Their want of suihcient ele- vation, however, and the tiled roofs standing out too strongly to view, somewhat diminish the general effect. About the middle, on the south side, is the Bank of Messrs. Whitehead, Weston, and Greenway. Lower down, on the same side, one of the principal inns, the WarLcick Arms, presents a spacious front, built of white stone, in a pleasing style of simple elegance. Opposite is the Printing-Office, w^hence issues, every Saturday, a Newspaper, which, though in its infancy, has already ol>- tained an extensive circulation. Still lower down, on the south side, stands one of the Dissenfbig Chapels, a small but neat edifice, belonging to those who are commonly, but OF WARWICK. 6S Quaker's Meeting Independent Chapel St. James's West Street. improperly, called Presbyterians. Near it, concealed from sight, is the Meeting House of a society of Quakers, con- siderable in number, and respectable, as they ever are, in character. Almost opposite, at a small distance, in Cow Lane, but retired from view, is the Independent Chapel, a plain, nnadorned, but large and commodious building. In the same lane, stands Pickering's Alms Houses, of which, as well as of all the charitable and other institu- tions, distinct notice will be taken hereafter. The High Street is terminated, in a striking manner, by St. James's Chapel, belonging to Leicester s Hospital, for the relief of maimed soldiers, and decayed tradesmen, built on an arch, which presents the appearance of a gate-way en- trance into the town. It was anciently called Hongyngate. Near this chapel, on the south, began the dreadful Fire, so often mentioned in the course of this Work, just be- hind one of those houses, which, by their anti([ue appear- ance, still shew that they belong " to other times. '* Extending from this to the opposite side, and proceeding easterly, the devouring flames left the whole street, a heap of smoaking ruins. Through the high but dark Gate-way, beneath St. James's Chapel, is the passage leading to the West Street, which is broad and airy ; chiefly inhabited by industrious labourers and artisans ; forming a wide en- trance into the Town, from the Kington and Stratford Roads. In Leland's Itinerary, it is noticed "as a very large Street." Towards the extremity of it, anciently stood the Church of St. Lawrence, one of those religious edifices, of which formerly there were so many ; but of which, no remains can now be traced. At what time this church was founded is uncertain : but even almost / 64 PERAMBULATION Jurxf Street Coitrt-House liletck Swan. five hundred years ago, it is expressly described as being in a ruinous state ; and, by an ecclesiastical decree in the reign of Edward III. it was formally dissolved. Pro- ceeding up the fVest Street, from the Stratford Road, a fine view of St. Jajiiess Tower presents itself, appearing boldly in front, and rising loftily on its arch-way.* This chapel existed prior to the reign of Henry I. more than 700 years ago : but the present tower was erected by Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of IFarivich^ in the reign of RichardII. Returning back to the Cross branching from it easterly, is the Jury Street so called from the matted room in it, A\here the Juries were formerly impannelled. In this street stands the Court-House, a stately edifice, substantially built of stone. Over its door is placed the Royal Arms above, and those of the Borough under- neath ; in the centre, is the figure of Justice, with her usual insignia, the sword and the balance. Lower down, on the same side, is another of the principal Inns, the Black Swan, with a new" and good front. Many of the houses in this street, are old, and afford striking specimens of the ancient mode of architecture, especially the remains of one which was formerly the residence of the noble family of the Archers. But some are modern, and built in a style \^hich indicates the opulence of their possessors. The older buildings on each side, mark the points at which the destructive progress of the great fire, in this direction, was happily arrested. In moving down the II is to be Ininenteil, that tlie good effect of a large and e!l-proporlioiird window in this tower 15 entirely dclrojed, by the miserable economy of bricisiiig up the lower part of it. The bricKs are eviii left aiicovered witli plaster. OP WARWICK. 55 St. I'eler's St>iith Street St. Johns. whole of this street, St. Peter's Chapel will not fail to strike the eye, as a fine object. It was built as a place of religious worship in the reign of Henry VI. but is now converted to the benevolent puq)oses of a Charity School. In the centre, is the room appropriated to the boys ; and the newly added wing, built on the remains of the old town-walls, was intended for the use of the girls. It is pleasing to remark, of the two edifices, at the extremities of the two principal streets, at once ter- minating and adorning them, that one is devoted to the instruction of indigent youth, and the other to the con- solation of destitute and declining age. Passing through the arch-way of St. Peters, the Smith-Street opens to view '^ once distinguished" savs Leland, " as the residence of many Jews," and a little beyond, is a large and ancient mansion, still retaining marks of its former grandeur. It was originally the- Hospital of St. John the Baptist, founded in the reign of Henry II. by William Earl of Warwick, intended for the reception of the houseless poor, and the wandering stranger. This institution had however, from some un- known cause, ceased to exist, even prior to the general dissolution ; at which time the estate was in the possession of Anthony Stoughton, of the family of the Stoughtons, in Surrey. By him, probably, the pi'esent mansion was erected, which seems not to be much older than the time of Elizabeth. In consequence of the marriage of one of his female descendants to James Money, Esq. the estate passed into this family ; and, by his son, it was sold to the present Earl of IFarwich. It is now a private Academy. Oppo- site to it, is the spacious and delightful Roud to Coventry : and, at a small distance from it, appears a coasidorabJe 66 PERAMBULATION Coton End The Butts Back Hill Baptist Meeting. range of neat and comfortalile habitations, recently erect- ed, intended chiefly for the accommodation of persons^ employed in the newly-established Lace Mamtfactory. Beyond St. John's^ is Coton-End, a wide street, principally inhabited by the more laborious, but not the least useful, class of the community. It is mentioned in Domesday Book, by the name of Cotes, an old English word, which signifies House. It was originally part of the estate of Edwyne Eaf^l of Mercia ; then, it became the possession of the Congiueror himself; afterwards, it was granted to Henry Earl of JVarwick ; and, from him, was transmitted down to his descendants. Beyond Coton- End, is the Emscote Road. Returning back to St. Peter's Chapel, on the north side is that part, which is called the Butts, pro- bably, because hutts were formerly erected here for the practice of archery,* so much encouraged by our former sovereigns. In this part is situated the College School, a large and ancient building, almost concealed from view, by the luxuriant trees and shrubs of the surrounding gardens. Near it, is the Vicarage, belonging to the adjoining church of St. Mary ; and beyond it, is a range of houses, of the second rank, newly and uniformly built. On the south side of St. Peter's, opposite the Butts, descends a gentle declivity called the Back Hill, where, with unostentatious front, stands the Baptist Meeting-House. Adjoining, are some comfortable Alms This was iiiial ir. ibc vicinitj of most Towns. 'J'lierc is a place still called llie iSu TTS at Lricrtter, and alio aiiolher of the same name at Siamford, OF WARWICK. 57 Castle Gates \liU Street St. Nicholas. Houses, part founded by Thomas Oaken, and part by Nicholas Iffeler ; who both acquired affluent fortunes in this town, and were both liberal benefactors to it. On the opposite side, is the Castle wall ; and, at the lower extremity, stands its Castellated Entrance, plain and un- pretending, iu its exterior appearance * of which, how- ever, if it be said that it is scarcely worthy of the magni- ficent structure, to which it conducts ; at least, it may be remarked, that it excites no previous expectation : and therefore leaves the mind open to the full impression of that astonishment and delight, which the unanticipated view of any object of extraordinary sublimity or beauty naturally produces. Beyond the Castle gates, to the right, is the Mill Street, formerly the great eastern en- trance into the town, over an ancient Bridge of fourteen arches ; now fallen to decay, and purposely left in its ruinous state, to aid the effect of the fine view, which the venerable Castle, with its rising rocks and towering bat- tlements, and its whole surrounding scenery, here presents. This near view is seen to the best advantage, from the meadows, within the Castle Park, on the eastern bank of the river. Opposite the Castle gates, rurally seated, at a short remove from the road, is the Church of St. Nicholas, built in the style of modern gothic; of which if the exe- cution be good, the design, in the opinion of all the best judges, is bad. Between this church and St. John's, stood the ancient House of the Templars, founded by Roger Eaj^l of Waricich, in the reign of Henry I. It was well endowed with lands, of which the neighbouring meadows, pastures, and other fields, including the water niill, were part. Upon the suppression of the whole order in 1311, H 58 PERAMBULATION AVw lUidge B> idge-End Castle Utreet, these lands passed into the possession of the Hospitallers f Bahtally in this county ; and, after the general dissolu- tion, into that of the Dudleys, Earls of Warwick. At a small distance, easterly, is the New Bridge, lately erected over the Avon, consisting of one large cir- cular arch, measuring in its span 105 feet. Jnst beyond this bridge, three roads meet- of which the first, iri front, divides at the toll-gate, within vieAV, into the Tachhrohe and Banhury roads the second, to the right, conducts to the scanty remains of several considerable streets, known under the general name of the BRiccE-END. Here anciently stood the Church of St. Helens, of which some small traces, in what was then used as a barn, Avere till very lately to be found. The third road, on the left, conducts to My ton, written in Domesday Book, Muitone; formerly a considerable village, though now entirely de- populated with the exception of one single house, a handsome modem structure, called My ton House. It had formerly a chapel belonging to it, in which several Canons officiated, to whom it is recorded, that many valuable grants of lands were made by Roger, Earl of IVaruich, and others, in the time of King Stephen. From Myfon, the road leads on to Leamington ; proceeding tlience to Southani, and Daventty. Returning once more to the Cross at right angles to the High and Jury Street, on the south side, is the Castle Street, formerly of considerable extent, but now much contracted, by giving way to the wi- dening circle of the Castle pleasure grounds. On the north side, is the Church Street, in which are many good, and some handsome houses. Both sides of it wer* OF WARWICK. 59 Be Clmrch-Street St. Murys North Gate. Street Counti/ Hall. ' I r laid in ruins, by the great fire; which, extending westerly, involved in one dreadftil destruction, all the houses and streets between it and the Market Place. Proceeding tip this street, a fine near view of St. Mary's Church is presented which, notwithstanding some great and asto- nishing faults in its plan, is yet a grand, imposing, and extensive pile. On the right, appears the Chapel of the Beauchamps, one of the finest structures of its kind, in the kingdom. It is in the rich gothic style, and the view of the exterior will afford scarcely less delight, than that of the beautiral interior Turning, with regret, from this noble monument of ancient architecture, towards the cen- tral parts of the church, the large indeed, but surely uncouth and cumbrous windows, will particularly strike, and at the same time, justly offend the eye coustmcted, as they are, in utter defiance of all rule, and all taste The two rows of arches, in these windoAvs are Saxon, heavy at best, and here strangely out of place ; and of the grotesque forms above them, neither name nor resemblance can be found, either in that or any other system of ancient or modern architecture. ^Turning, however, to the left, the eye is better pleased where the light and elegant tower is seen, rearing its lofty pinnacles, producing great effect, in spite of all the faults in the form of its arches and windows. Passing through the wide arch-way, formed by the four piers on which St. Mary's Tower is built the North (tate Street opens to view which, though more retired, is spacious and handsome ; the residence chiefly of the gentry of IVarwich. It is particularly distinguished by its two noble and substantial buildings the County Hall, and the County Gaol. The former displays a front of wide extent, and considerable elegance, snppoitcMl by pil- H 2 60 PERAMBULATION County Gaol County Bridewell St. Mary's Touer. lars of the Corinthian order. The latter looks hiiilt for strength, agreeably to its character; and the front is supported by a row of massive pillars, of three quarters length, of the Doric order. At a small distance from it, in the Bridewell Lane, stands the Count if Bridewell; which is, also, a strong and handsome building, with a good stone front, and a garden before it. From any part of North-Gate Street, St. Marys Tower is strikingly seen, in near view, without interiiiption, from its base to its lofty summit. Nothing can exceed the exact and beautiful proportion, with which it rises to the great height of 174 feet. Though the style of architecture is justly regarded as a strange instance either of bad taste, or, M'hat is more probable, of perverse, or sportive humour, yet the design of it is attributed to no less a person than Sir Christopher Wren. The Latin inscription carried round three sides of the tower, briefly detailing the history of this church, imports that "it was first repaired by Roger de Newburg, Earl of TVarwich, in the time of King Ste- phen : that it was afterwards wholly rebuilt by Thomas DE Beauchamp, Earl of IFarwich, in the year 1394 ; that it was destroyed 1694, by a dreadful fire, which spared neither temples nor houses ; and that this new church begun by public, was finished by royal piety, under the happy auspices of Queen Anne, in the memorable year 1704 Few readers Avill want to be reminded that it was the glorious victory of Blenheim, obtained by the illustrious Marlborough, which will for ever render the year just mentioned, truly memorable indeed in the anhals of British history ! Proceeding to the lower extremity of North Gate Street, the entrance, through large iron gates, into the OF WARWICK 61 Cotton Manufactory Saltsford Poor House Worsted Manufactori/. Priori/ Park, appears. On the right hand is the Oil Mill Lane, in which is the Manufactori/ for the weaving of Cot- ton, established by Messrs. Parkers. Towards the left, down a steep descent, lately made less inconveniently so, by the present happy and prevailing spirit of improve- ment, is that part of the town called the Saltsford, distinguished by its large Worsted Maniifactory, carried on under the firm of Parkes and Brookhol se ; by its nume- rous and busy wharfs, chiefly filled with coal ; and by its increasing and industrious population. In this street, is the Poor House, unassuming in its external appearance, but humanely and judiciously regulated within. Towards the lower extremity, are the remains of the ancient church of St. Michael ; near which was also a Hospital for Lepers, of the same name. The latter founded so long ago as the reign of Henry I. by Roger, Earl of Warwick, has totally disappeared ; the small remains of the former, are now converted into the humble abodes of aged and infirm poverty. Beyond these, a newly erected street appears, consisting of airy and comfortable habitations provided for the accommodation of the numerous artisans, employed in the various departments of the Worsted Manufactory. The entrance from the Birmingham Road into the town is through the Saltsford ; and thence, into the 3Iar- het Place, the most direct way is by a road, deeply cat through the rock, which passes under a handsome Iron Bridge, the gift of one of the present Members, Charles Mills, Esa. The Market Place forms a pretty good square ; surrounded by numerous and some of them handsome ebops, and by several good inns, of the second rank. At i PERAMBULATION Market Place I'ublk l.ihrarij Theatre, the sonthem extremity, stands the Market House. Near it is the Woolpack, the third of the principal inns, newly erected, conveniently arranged, and well conducted. It is much frequented hy travellers. In the Market Place was anciently a church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist^ of which the first foun- dation is ascribed by Rous, to Caractacus, the most distinguished of all the early British chiefs. The walls of it were standing in the time of Dugdale : but even of these not the smallest trace is any longer to be found. Here, also, was formerly the Booth Hall, which was taken down only a few years ago : leuving, instead of an old and ruinous building, the present open and spacious area> At the northern extremity of the Market Place, in a short street, leading towards the church, is the Public Library. At right angles to this street, is ano- ther. New Street, so called from having been built in the place of one, that was utterly destroyed by the great Fire. At the comer of this, with a handsome stone front, stamls the Bank of Messrs. Tomes, Russell, Tomes and Russell. From one side of the Market Place, over the Iron Bridge, is the way to the Theatre ; of which, if its ex- ternal appearance promises nothing, the interior aff'oids ample space, and convenient accommodation, for all who usually resort to theatrical amusements. At the southern end of the same place, a small street conducts to the Bowling Green, delightfully situated on an eminence, commanding a rich, pleasing, and cxten- OF WARWICK 6^ Bowlinn Green Friar Lane Race Course. sive prospect. Further on, is the Friar Lane, so called, from a large building, which stood near it, belonging to the fraternity of Preaching Friars, called the Black Friars^ who came over to England, and settled here, in the reign of Henry III. Their habitation was surrendered, by deed, into the hands of Henry VIII. and was soon after demolished. The lands were granted, by Edward VI. to the Dudleys, Earls of JVarwick. The Friar Lane is the principal road to the Race C(mrse. The Race Course is esteemed one of the best in the kingdom. It extends round a large compass of ground, every where flat, except in one part ; and measures, in its whole extent, nearly two miles. For the accommo- dation of the numerous spectators, who usually resort to these diversions, a commodious Stand has been lately erect- ed, by private subscription. It presents, in its appearance, a handsome structure ; and, in its arrangement, is well con- trived for all the purposes intended. On the second floor is the principal apartment; which is a large room, whither the company may retire, in case of unfavorable weather : and, before it, on a kind of spacious balcony, tiers of seats are placed ; whence is commanded a fine and extensive view of the course. Above, on ^ large open area, a still more extensive view is obtained ; including the entire circum- ference of the course. Below, one convenient apartment is provided for the use of the company ; and the others, are formed into a comfortable dwelling for the herds- man, whose business it is to take charge of the nu- merous cattle sent to graze in these wide and fertile grounds which is common land. The rii'ht of com- monage, Avbicli is now a valuable consideration, is vested in the inhabitants of certain houses, within the parish of 64 PERAMBULATION, &c. Vieusjrom the liuce Ground Marble Yard. St. Mary, under certain regulations, which were settled, immediately after the great Fire, in 1694 ; and of which a copy will be given in the Appendix.* In different parts of the Rave Ground, are several good views of the town, with most of its principal objects, the Market House, the Prisons, the High Church, and St. James's : but its proud boast, the magnificent Castle, is not here to be seen ; except only in some of the morfe distant parts. Standing forward, conspicuously to view, are two houses, called the Marble Yard, one of sin- gular construction, but both substantially built, and most delightfully situated. They are the residence of the proprietors of the IVorsted Manufactory of which the extensive buildings appear, also, in full view; presenting an animated scene of busy and useful industrj^ -?^ri' Appendix, No. IV $ All indifferent view of lliis House i? given in llie Eeautiei of England, v. xi A view of the ancient Bridge mentioned p. t>7, may be seen in Gilpin's Northern Tour, v. i. p. 38, and part of the fine view, noticed in the same page, is well givea in one of iht ngravingi of " Warwick Cattle," a Poem, lately published. A WALK &c. es View of the Town and Castle from Leamington Road. CHAP. VI. % Walk tountx WatMth. View of the Toum ajid Cnstle from Leamington Road-^from Tachbrook Road- from the New Bridge from St. Nicholas' Meadow from Blacklow Hiil- from Coventry Road from Guys Cross Hill:from Hampton Bill- from Wedgenock Park-^Distant Viexo of Kenilworth Castle. JT ROM many points, in the immediate vicinity, the view of the Town and Castle of IVarwick is highly picturesque and beautiful : and to some of these we shall proceed to direct the notice of the Stranger, in the course of a Walk, at a small distance round it. Passing over the New Bridge and proceeding a little \vay on the Leamington Road from this point, one of the finest views of IVarwick presents itself, and displays, indeed, a scene of uncommon beauty and gran- deur.* In the fore-ground appears the rich meadows, through which the Avon gracefully takes its gentle and winding course : and, at a short distance, on the opposite bank, standing conspicuously forward to view, is the church of St. Nicholas, darkly shaded with trees behind. Near it is the Castellated Entrance of the Castle ; and, * Tliis i tlie View of WarK'ich which i given in the prejcnt Woik, I 66 A WALK ROUND View of the Town and Castle from heumington Road. ' I I liii i ' III' III* I i III II t a little above, the small but elegant tower of St. Peter's Chapel. Further back to the right is the Priory, em- bosomed in its own beautiful Avoods: and, still further to the right, is the ancient Hospital of St. John, which, no pleasing object in itself, is well relieved by the interpos- ing shade of trees. The town is seen, scattered about, interspersed with wood, rising in the center ; and crowned with its noble tower of St. Mary's, ascending far above the richly variegated and extensive groves of the Castle. On the left, eclipsing by its solemn grandeur every other object, appears the CASTLE, proudly seated on a bold and elevated rock, and raising high its towers and bat- tlements above all the lofty and spreading trees, which encircle it, and lend the aid of their varied shades, to diversify and enrich the prospect. The majestic towers of CiESAR, on the one side, and of Guy, on the other, with the grand embattled Gate-way in the middle, richly clad in the thickest foliage, would of themselves form a fine and a complete picture. * The New Bridge, in the front, may seem, by its modern elegance, to disturb the harmony of the scene. It, besides, somewhat awkwardly interposes between the eye of the spectator and the view of the Castle. It is, however, a noble object in itself, stretching across the river with one mighty span of 105 feet ; and contributes, perhaps, by the very contrast, to heighten the effect of the whole. Such are the outlines of the striking and beautiful scenery, which marks the approach to IVarwick, on the eastern side ; and few persons, it is believed, have ever beheld it, entering into the town, especially for the first time, M'ithout something Thij ii given in the present Work. Tlie same View may alio be secu in IxEtAND's Tit. Viewy p. 131. and in Tht Btaxitki of England and Wales. WARWICK. 67 View of the Town and Castle from Tuchbrook Road. of those high-raised emotions, which, possibly, may be termed enthusiastic but which he who has never felt, in contemplating views like this, is not to be envied. Perhaps, it may be considered as a defect in the view to which we have just pointed *^ that the modern and meaner buildings are too near; and, by their dis- tinctness, break and divide the whole too much into patches ; and thus impair the effect." Let, then, the lover of picturesque scenery, remove fixjm the Learnings ton Road ; and, at the Bridge, turning on the left, let him proceed along the road that leads to Tachbrook. Here, on a rising ground, about a mile from the town, his eye will be gratified by a view, which, in all that constitutes a beautiful and impressive landscape, few can surpass. Being on the same side of the town, it is of course, in many respects, the same as the former; but here the prospect is more extensive ; in its several parts, more harmoniously blended ; and, in its whole effect, more strikingly grand. In this, as in. the former view, appears in front SL Nicliolas' Church, distinctly, yet not glar- ingly seen. The small tower of St. Peter's may be discerned a little above it, but almost concealed and lost ia the verdant shade. The New Bridge scarcely appears, but its balustrade may be imperfectly seen. On the right, the Priori/ boldly discloses to view the summits of its spacious mansion, ascending above the beautiful groves, which encompass and adorn i*. The ancient Hospital of St. Johns appears farther to the right, partly screened from view, by its surrounding trees and shrubs. The noble tower of St. Marys Church majestically soars in the center, the most elevated object in the picture : ven the nave and wings of that stately edifice rise to 1 2 68 A WALK ROUND Viezv of the Castle from the New Bridge. view with just dignity. The Castle, super-eminently the glory of the scene, next presents itself to the astonished eye, in all its magnificence. The whole range of front, of ample breadth, and lofty height, displays itself, at once, with great effect : and its long line is finely broken and interspersed, by large and luxuriant trees, which throw their spreading arms about it, or push their aspir- ing tops above it. The towers and battlements, loftily rising, look with imposing gi'andeur. In front Ccesar's Tower presses forward to view ; whilst, behind it, Gvi/'s Tower ascends, as if in scorn, far above it. It is, however, a defect in this view, that these two magnificent towers are seen too much in the same straight line, and that the embattled Gateway is entirely lost to the sight. On the left appears the Maiden and other small towers. Still farther to the left, a new and a striking object is intro- duced, in the tower of St. James's Chapel; bursting on the sight from the thickest of the woods, which seem to encompass it. Its antique form, and sombre hue tnily harmonize with the solemn air of the Castle, and of the whole surrounding scene which is shut in by a gently rising, and deeply wooded country, stretching to a con- siderable extent, on every side. Having thus surveyed two of the finest prospects, which the town and castle of IVarwick presents on its eastern and southern side we shall next, conduct the Stranger to one or two that may be seen, on the northern and north-eastern side. Repassing the New Bridge he will hence see, in near and striking view, the Castle, with all its beautiful scenery the winding waters, the towering trees, and es- WARWICK. S View of Warwick from St. Nicholas Meadow from Guijs Cliff. pecially the prodigious rock on which it stands, and to which it seems united, rather by the hand of nature than that of human art. It is this view,* which, oftener per- haps than any other, is chosen by the numerous artists, whether amateurs or professors, who are so frequently at- tracted hither, in search of grand or pleasing subjects for the exercise of the pencil. Removing from the bridge towards the town, on the right, are the fertile meadows of St. Nicholas ; in the more distant parts of which, the stranger, desirous of seeing it in all its different points, may obtain another view, remarkably fine, of the town and the Castle, on the one side, and the river, with its noble Bridge, on the other. The rich woods which every where encircle the town, and those especially which sur- round the Castle, from this point, appear disposed in a manner singularly striking and beautiful. Hence, passing the Church, and bending to the right, let the stranger next proceed along the Coventry road, till he reach the neighbourhood of Guifs Cliff'. Here, turning, through a small gate, into a spacious field, on the right, his eye will be gratified by a view, entirely different from all the former ; and which, for fine and picturesque effect, may be considered as even superior. From this point the Castle and the Churches of St. Mary and St. Nicholas, rising from the bosom of stately and spreading trees, present the appearance of a rich and beautiful cluster of towers and groves ; nor is this fine assemblage Injured by the obtmsion of any modern or meaner buildings. It is in scenes, like this, where, If less ' * This View maj be ecti in Ireland's Picturtique Views on the Waraickdiire J von, p. 140. This View is also given in the same Work, p. 129. 70 A WALK ROUND View of the Town and Cattle from Blncktow Hill from Gut/'s Cross Hill. is disclosed to the eye, that more is left to the imagination ; and what the imagination touches, it generally embellishes and improves. Hence, probably, it is that the partial view of towers and battlements " bosom'd high in tufted trees/' according to the idea of the great Poet, or al- most concealed in the deep shade of woods, produces a greater impression on the mind, than the uninterrupted view of larger parts of the building, or the J'ull display of the whole edifice at once. Nearly the same view of tVarwick^ as that just noticed, may be seen, to great advantage, from the top of Blaclilow Hill, at a short distance farther, on the Coven- try road. From this eminence, also, a striking view is seen of Guy's Cliff House, deeply ambushed in towers of its own ancient groves, with the " softly flowing Avon ^ winding along, in a great length of course, through the fine 'tract of country, which it fertilizes and adorns. Near the summit of this hill, the stranger may read, commemora- tive of the melancholy event which here took place, the following inscription, cut in the rock, " P. Gaveston, Earl of Cornwall, beheaded 1311."* Leaving the neighbourhood of Guy's Cliff, and returning towards the town, on reaching the summit of a gentle ascent, in the road, the towers and woods of fJ^ar- wick again present themselves in nearer, but stnking view. This rising ground is still remembered by the name of Guy's Cross Hill probably from an ancient Pillar, erected on it, which certainly once existed, though it has Tlie letteri are of modern form : and llie date U erroneous. It onglil to be l3li. This view is noticed as finelj picturesque, bj Mr. WinKEa. See Xortherv Tour, vol. ii. p, iS7, WARWICK. 71 View of Warwick from Hampton-on-the-Hill. long since " perished 'mid the wreck of things that were.** To this pillar, as story tells, the celebrated Hero of the Cliff, was accustomed to repair, for the purpose either of indulging his pious meditations, or of venting his amorous effusions.* At the foot of this descent is a small gate, on the right, which leads, by a delightful walk, through the Priory Parh, into the central parts of the town. To the stranger if an admirer of picturesque associations of what is grand or beautiful in nature with what is noble or pleasing in works of human art it will, perhaps, be no unacceptable service, if we venture to point out two other views, more distant than the former, by which, it is presumed, he will not fail to be consider- ably interested and gratified. For the first of these let him proceed along the Henley road, on the southern edge of the Race-course, as far as Hampton ; and here, fiom the brow of a hill, just at the entrance of the village, a complete and well- united view of IVarwick, with all its principal objects, will be presented before him. The situation of the toAvn, finely seated on its rocky eminence, is here dis- tinctly seen. ^S*^. Mary's still the central and the highest object, supported and adorned by the woods and towers of the Castle on the one side ; and those of the Priorv, This Pillar is thus liuraorously noticed in an olrl poem entitled Iter Borrale, writ- Uvi ia I'JiS, bv Richard Corbeh, Bishop first of O.iford, tlien of Norwich : Bejond this, in the road way as wee went, A pillur stands, where this Colossus leant ; \Y litre he would sigh, and los, aiid, fur heart's eujc, Oliimcs wiitc: viTses, (some sav) such as tlieae : " Hire wtii I langulil!, in this s: , boivei," '* \Yl,!!si luy trfle love triiimphci in vo'.> hi^h toir- ' 72 A WALK ROUND View of Warwiik from Wcdgenock Park. and the Priori/ itself on the other ; the spire of St. Nicho- las, the tower of St. Petey's behind, and that of St. James in front, present a rich and well composed landscape, sunoundeJ on all sides by a tract of high cultivation ; beyond which opens a view of the Northamptonshire hills on the left, and those of Gloucestershire and ff^or- cesfershire on the right till the eye is lost in the wide horizon. For the second of these more distant views let the lover of beautiful prospects proceed through the grounds, near the Priori/, called the Pigwells, across the Saltsford common, and along the road which leads to the Old Park, anciently the celebrated Wedgenock ; but now converted to the purposes of agriculture ; though in one small inclosure, a herd of deer is still kept. As- cending a somewhat steep acclivity, passing by a farm- house on the summit, and turning into the fields, on the right from the high ground, on which he will now find himself the spectator wuU command, in grand prospect, before him, a rich, varied and extensive landscape. The situation of Warwick, elevated above the tract immedi- atelv around, and vet itself embosomed within a circuit of gently-rising hills, appears strikingly beautiful ; and nothing can exceed the richness and grandeur of the trees, rising with majestic loftiness, or spreading their deepening shades, in wide expanse, on every side. The Castle, the Church, the Prioi^y, the Chapel, being now removed to a considerable distance, lose all the discrimination of minuter parts, and melt into one fine and general mass of light and shade. The foreground is occupied by a tract of ])1 easing and fertile country, intersected with flourishing hedges, and adorned with numerous and well- WARWICK. 7 Distant View of Kenilzoortk Castle. grown trees. Behind, and on every side, a country of nearly the same description extends, including the villages of Cuhbingtorij Lillingtorif Offchurchj Radford, Ufton, Harhury, Chesterton, Tachhrook, and Barford. In the distance are seen the hills of Napton, those of Shuckhurgh Park, near Daventry, and the Edge Hills dividing this county from Oxfordshire, on the one side ; and the lofty Breedon and Broadway, on the other. After having sufficiently contemplated this view ^let the spectator turn in an opposite direction ; and, moving only a few steps, he will be equally surprised and delighted to see, in full prospect before him, the ruins of Kenilworth Castle. This stupendous pile, even at this distance, presents a grand appearance ; rearing its ivied summits, above the deep and solemn shades, which sur- round it. On one side appears the village of Kenilworth, with its spired Church, its ruined Priory, and its scattered habitations, pleasingly interspersed with wood. In the front is Goodrest, a substantial farm-house, built on the site of the ancient manor house, belonging to IVedgenock Park. It was so called, as Dugdale conjectures, be- cause some of the Countesses of Warwick were accus- tomed, during the period of childbirth, for the sake of quiet seclusion, to retire to this place ; where, it appears upon record, many of their children were born. In the distance, may be discerned, besides several village churches, the three spires of Coventry. It will be thought not a little remarkable that, from the same station, should thus be obtained a view at once of two of the most anci- ent and most magnificent Castles in the kingdom the one still towering in all its pride and pomp the other fallen prostrate, yet exhibiting venerable marks of former power and splendour, in its grand and awful ruins, K 74 TRADE OF Roi/al Mint in the time of the Anglo-Saxons. CHAP. Til. taDe of Wat^itk. Ancient Mint former Stuff Manufactory present state of general Trade Hat Manufactory Worsted Manufactory Cotton Weaving and Cotton Spinning Manufactory Lace Manufactory liavigutiou Mill. jO ROM all remaining records, it does not appear that TVarwick was ever distinguished in ancient times, as the seat of any extensive or important manufactory. Yet the fact must not be entirely omitted here, tliough it may not strictly belong to the subject, that in the age of the Anglo- Saxons, a Royal Mint was certainly established in this town. This is decisively proved by the curious coin of Hardicanute, mentioned in an early part of this work;* and also from two other coins, one of Canute, and the other of Harold II. minted here ; of both Avhich un- doubted specimens still remain. In proof of the same fact, the authority of the celebrated John Rous may also he adduced, who gives the following account of this royal mint. It was established, he says,|| in the eastern part of IVarwick, as he discovered from certain records, pre- served in the Collegiate Church of St. Mai^ ; in which he frequently read the names of Baldred, Everard, and other moneyers. He furtlier adds, as what he had " See pgc 3. . U " Warwiciensium pi ioribut temporibui omaginm trat ad OTicnUm,(j(C." Rous p. 194, WARWICK. 79 Fanner Stuff Manufactory. clearly ascertained, that the place, where the Vicars of the College lived, in his time, was the very place where the persons employed, in this ancient mint, resided. It is, indeed, sufficiently known, that, in the time of the Anglo-Saxons, there were mints in most of the counties of England : nor was it till after the reign of William THE CoNauEROR, that the business of coining was carried on principally in the Tower oi London; as it now is in the Neic Mint, erected on the eastern side of Tower Hill. But if from early, we descend to later times so far as the present researches have been able to discover, it appears that, for many ages after the Norman conquest, the whole trade of IFarwick was limited to the single object of supplying the wants of the inhabitants, and those of the immediate vicinity : nor was there any article, the produce of human ingenuity or labour, that could ob- tain for it celebrity, as a commercial or manufacturing town. About the beginning of the last century, however, we find a manufactory established, in this place, for the making of cheneys and arrotines ; and this was conducted, according to the notion of the times, on a scale of very considerable magnitude. It even appears that a large proportion of the poorer inhabitants were then engaged in the business of weaving these stuffs ; and that in almost every house, belonging to the labouring class, three or four wheels were constantly employed in spinning, for the use of the weavers. But this manufactory has since gra- dually declined ; nor, till within a very few late years, have the views of trade in general extended, in any other direction, beyond the demands, which the daily necessities of civilized life create, within the precincts of the town itself, and the surrounding country. With that K 2 76 TRADE OF - Present State of Trade Hat Manufactory. increased population, however, which we have hefore noticed, even this source of trade must of course have opened for itself a wider and deeper channel : and when the great resort of nobility and gentry to the neighbour- ing Spa of Leamington is further considered ; it will not surprise the Reader to be told, that the number of shops, within the last twenty years, has greatly multi- plied, and that the quantity of internal trade has been nearly doubled. But it must now be added that, of late years, some of the more enterprising traders of fVarwick have enlarged their views ; and entered into several branches of the wholesale trade, particularly that of linen and cotton. A considerable Manufactory of Hats, of very superior excel- lence, has, also, been carried on, for several years, under the direction of Messrs. Lamb. Near the Back Hill, an Iron Foundry vj^& established, in the year 1810, by Mr. T. Roberts who has obtained much reputation for the making of all sorts of machinery. The Canal, too, brought from Birmingham to this place, and continued thence to Napton, Braunston and London, has opened new and important sources of trade, particularly in corn and coal. But, for its great increase of reputation as a trading town, f'Varwick is principally indebted to the establishment of the four following Ma\iufactories of which we shall proceed to give some account concluding with a short notice of the newly erected Navigation Mill. THE WORSTED MANUFACTORY. The first in magnitude, though not in order of tlmr, is the IForstcd Spinning Manufactory, which was ftrst established in I'i^i), under the firm of Parkes, WARWICK. 7f Worated Cotton Weaving Manufactory. Brookhouse and Crompton. A large and commodious building has been erected, furnished with every conve- nience for carrying it on, in the most complete manner : and the main building is surrounded by others, adapted to the various purposes connected with this great under- taking. The works are put in motion by means of a Steam Engine, erected by Messrs. Bolton and Co. of which the power is equal to that of thirty horses. The number of hands employed is about 500. The wool is here conducted from the fleece, through all the successive processes of sorting, washing, combing, dying, and spin- ning into worsted and yarn, both of finer and coarser qualities. The former is for the hosiery ; and the latter for the carpet manufactory. The worsted finds its prin- cipal markets at Leicester^ HincMey, and Nottingliayn ; and the yam at Kidderminster. THE COTTON WEAVING MANUFACTORY. This was established in 1797? ^nder the firm of Messrs. Parker. Extensive and well-adapted buildings have been erected for the purpose of carrying it on, in large and open grounds, near the Oil Mill Lane. The number of hands employed is about 200. Here, the cot- ton is woven into various articles, as dimities, calicoes, fustians, velveteens, and velverets. The raw material is chiefly procured from Manchester ; and the manufac- tured goods are returned to the same place, as the great mart for sale. the COTTON SPINNING MANUFACTORY. This manufactory was established in the year 1792 at Emscote, about a mile from IP^arwichy but within the precincts of the borough, under the firm of Messrs. 78 TRADE OP, &c. Cotton Spinning T^ice Manufactory/ Navigation Milt. Smart. The works are carried on partly by means of water and partly by that of steam. The number of hands employed is about 50. The raw material is chiefly procured at London and Livejyool : and when spun is sent to Manchester, LACE MANUFACTORY. This manufactory, established in 1810, is carried on under the firm of Nunn, Brown, and Freeman. The lace is made entirely by machinery, for which a patent Avas obtained in 1811 ; and is considered as equal in every valuable quality, to that which is made, in the usual way, by hand. It is of all the various kinds knoAvn by the name of common Bobbin, Mechlin, and Valenciennes lace. It is made both of British and Foreign thread ; and the lace is principally sent to London for the supply of the Aome trade and also for exportation. About 80 hands are employed in this manufactory. NAVIGATION MILL. This is situated near the Navigation Bridge, on the Emscote Road. It was erected in the year 1805, by Messrs. Tomes and Handley. ITie wheel is of that kind wV'ich is called hach-shot, and is turned by the superfluous water, flowing from the JVarwkk and Napton Canal, down a fall of 27 feet, and thence runs into the Avon. This great wheel is of cast iron and excellent construction, which does ( redit to the maker, ]Mr. Roberts, of IFartctch; measuring in diameter 24 feet. The mill is furnished with five jKiir of stones ; three of which are kept con- stantly in motion. The apparatus is, in every part, well constructed : and tlie contrivance is singularly good for loading and unloading. This mill is capable of grinding and dressing, for bread flour, upwards of 300 busliels per dav. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &c. fs Count 1/ Hall. CHAP. YIII. County Hall Court House Market House New Bridge Iron Bridge- Theatre Public Librari/ College Schuol. vJF the principal public buildings of Warwich, as enumerated in a former part of this work, we shall here subjoin a short account reserving, for distinct chapters, that of the County Gaol and County Bridewell. THE COUNTY HALL. This is a spacious and magnificent building, de- signed and finished under the direction of Messrs. J. and H. HiORNE, architects of tVarwick, about the year 17/6'. Its elegant stone front is supported by a range of pillars of the Corinthian order, and the intervals are ornamented with festoons of flowers. On each side of the grand entrance are two niches, intended for the reception of statues ; but these are still unoccupied : and over it, a space is left, apparently designed for some appropriate inscription, which stiil remains a blank. Ascending a flight of stone steps, through large folding doors, is the entrance into a noble room, of lofty elevation and just proportion, which measures 94 feet in length and 30' in breadtb. At each extremitv, in semi-circular rcce-se^, 80 PUBLIC BUILDINGS Court-House. properly fitted up, crowned with handsome cupolas, and surrounded by convenient galleries, are held the two Courts of Justice: one, on the right, for the decision of criminal, and the other for that of civil causes. Between them, is a room, for the accommodation of the senants, and attending officers of the court. Above, is the apart- ment for the occasional retirement of the petty juries : and adjoining to it, is the Grand Jury Chamber. In this great Hall, besides the assizes, the quarter sessions are held ; all county meetings are convened ; and, once a year, at the time of the races, it is converted into a ball- room. The stone floor is then covered by a boarded one ; the circular recesses are fitted up in the manner of card- rooms ; the pillars are encircled with wreaths of lamps ; and the whole solemn appearance of a court of justice is changed into the brilliant and sportive scene of gaiety and fashion. - THE COURT HOUSE. This stately building was erected about 1730, under the direction of John Smith, an architect of considerable celebrity, at the expence of the Corporation. For this, however, under the charge of a misapplication of the public money, they were summoned to appear in the Court of Chancery; and were suspended from the exercise of all their power and privileges : to which they were not restored till the year 1738. It is, indeed, a spacious and handsome edifice ; but not more so, it will now be thought, than suitable to the dignity of such a corporate town as that of ff^arwick. The principal entrance is from Jury- Street. On the ground floor, are two apartments of ample space. In that, on the right hand, the Mayor and Alder- men hold their assemblies. In this room, is a good OF WARWICK. 81 Market- House New Bridge. portrait of Hen. VIII. who, out of the spoils of the ruined monasteries, bestowed upon this town so many valuable benefactions. It is the gift of John Bohun Smyth, Escj. the present Mayor. Opposite is the Court Room, properly fitted up for the purpose of holding the borough sessions. On the second floor, is the principal apartment, which is spacious, well-proportioned, and ele- gantly fitted up measuring 6o feet by 2/. It is furnished with cut-glass chandeliers, large and beautiful. At one extremity is the orchestra; and there is a card-room adjoining. In this great room, annual entertainments are givi*n by the Mayor ; public meetings are convened ; public lectures on philosophical and other subjects occa- sionally delivered ; and here, the winter dancing assem- blies, held monthly, at least till lately, were usually graced with all the beauty and fashion of the county. THE MARKET-HOUSE. This, like all the other public buildings, is sub- stantial and good. The lower and open part is appro- priated to the use of those, who attend the market. The upper apartments are chiefly used for the purpose of storing the arms and accoutrements, belonging to some of the military corps of the county. Fro^m the summit, a bird's-eye-view of the town may be obtained, and a fine prospect of the surrounding country. THE NEW BRIDGE. About the year 1785, the old Gothic Bridge over the Avon, near the Castle, which was narrow and incon- venient, was found, also, to be much out of repair. An Act of Parliament was therefore obtained for the erection of a new one ; and for the alteration, in consequence, of L 82 PUBLIC BUILDINGS Iron Brill tion [j In the front of these buildings is the following Inscriplion : ' Whereat 3 Almt Hofes ttanding in Pebble Lane in Warwick, which receiird *' 6 poor persons, given hy Mr. Tiiomas-'Oken deceased, vsere burnt by the Dreadful '' Fire upon the bth Day of Septembtr, 1691, these Alms Hmses to receive 1? persons; * were by the chariti/ of the said Thomas Ok en, built upon the ground given by Mf, *' NicH. Iffeler, deceased, to the same charitable office, hy the Feoffees of the said " charity, upon the ?Pt/j day of May, Anno Dom. 1696" Of whom, see in the account of the Priory, where he resided, and where he died. II This Insciiptioii is as follows:- " Domtinciitas hasce Tunvijif Puckeiunc, miles et Barovettus hrncvolo, vtpnte " amici, vicinque in hunr. Butgum afectu motnt. (cuju* mcliorem statiim resqve tecundiores ex animo opttt) sibique in hac parte Etecutorit mtinere fungi optimum rntus, diim ciset *' cetatit adhuc mediar, suis tumptibus in propria funda eitrui curjvit, indnstri.rifue (sine ' qua urbes Burgique marceteunt) exc'tanix, adaugtndaiue perpetue dedicniit. An : " HaLttis, MDCxxxiii." AT WARWICK. 93 Saltsford Alms Ilouset Yardleys Alms Hmiae. imports, the prosperity, not only of individuals, but of whole communities, so much depends. About fifteen years ago the second of these alms houses, standing in Bridewell Lane, were given, in exchange for some lands of equal or superior value, situated within the neighbour- ing parish of Budbrooke. SALTSFORD ALMS HOUSES. These are situated near the remains of the ancient Church of St. Michael, They are four in number ; and are inhabited by eight poor women, to each of whom an allowance of 2*. 6d. is paid quarterly. These alms houses were founded also by Sir Thomas Puckering, out of whose estates the quarterly allowances are paid. yardley's alms house. This house, situated in the Saltsford, was given by Mr. John Yardley, for the use of poor women ; four of whom are received into it. There is a good garden adjoining. The Trustees are the Minister and the Churchwardens of St. Mary's. ST. Mary's poor house. This is situated in the Saltsford. The premises are airy and spacious, properly and commodiously fitted up. On the ground floor, are the apartments inhabited by the Master and Mistress ; a large common room, for the use of the poor inhabitants ; a good school-room, for the children ; and various convenient offices for baking, brewing, washing, and other domestic uses. In the up- per part are the lodging rooms. Behind is a piece of ground used for drying linen ; at the extremity of which are two workshops, one for carding and '^pinning, in which 96 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, &c. St. Mary's and St. Nicholas' Poor Houses. the women arc chiefly employed ; and the other for weav- ing, in which the men are employed. Of their earnings, 2c?. in every shilling is given, to encourage habits of indus- try. The whole house is kept in a state of perfect order and neatness, which does credit to the present Master and Mistress : the table is furnished with sufficient and whole- some food ; a large garden, at a small distance, affords abundant supplies of vegetables ; and, once a year, at Easter, every poor person receives a complete suit of new clothing, plain, but neat and comfortable almost every article of which is the produce of the manufactures, car- ried on M'ithin the house. Tlie children are instructed in reading, and in the principles of religion ; prayers are said in the common room every evening ; and regular at- tendance is required on the public service of the Church on the Sunday. The number of poor inhabitants seldom exceeds 6o, and does not often fall much short of 30. The whole ex])ence is paid out of the parish rates. ST. NICHOLAS' POOR HOUSE. This occupies a very airy situation at the extremity of the Coton End, and has a large and productive garden adjoining. The number of its inhabitants seldom exceeds 20 or 30; and these principally consist of women and children. They are chiefly employed in spinning. Good provision, in sufficient quantities is provided ; and every article of necessary clothing is furnished, when wanted The whole expence is paid out of the parish rates. LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 97 Present edifice anciently the mansion of two united Guilds. CHAP. XI. Eeicejrtee'jef ^o^sfpital. The preient edifice anciently the mansion of two united Guilds granted, at the general dissolution, to Sir N. Le Strange appropriated and endowed by Dudley Earl itf Leicester, /or the purpose of a Hospital Appointment of' a Master number of members qualifications for admis- sion regulations great increase in the value of its endowments new Act of Parliament in consequence provision made for the reception of additional members, and increase of the Master s salary present state of the buildings and of the chapel. xSESIDES the various charitable institutions, already noticed, an account still remains to be given of Leicester's Hospital, one of the first in magnitude and growing importance ; which is reseiTed, therefore, for the subject of a distinct chapter. This very ancient building, situated at the wes- tern extremity of High- St reef, appears to have been originally the hall or mansion, belonging to the two united guilds, or lay fraternities, of the Holit/ Trinity and St. George. These were established in the reign of Rich. II. ; the former by William Hobkins, John Cooke, and eleven others, all inhabitants of Warwick; the latter by John de Dynelay and two others, also of Warwick. They had power to purchase estates ; to re- ceive other brethren into their fraternity ; and to build and found a chantry in the chapel, which stood over the 98 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. Appointment of Alas'ir number of' H'cthren F,iidoumenls. JVest Gate. The union of the two Guilds, certainly took place before the 10th of Hen. VI.; though the precise period is not known : and in the reign of Hen. VIII. it appears, there were four priests, belonging to this frater- nity ; of whom two were employed to celebrate mass in St. Marys Churcli, a third in the chapel of St. Peter, and a fourth in their own chapel of St. James. In th latter reign, when so many other religious institutions were dissolved, the united Guilds shared in the general fate; and, in the year 1551, their mansion was granted by Edw. VI. to Sir Nicholas Le Strange, Knight, and his heirs. But in the succeeding reign, it became the property of Rodert Dudley, Earl of Leicester whether by purchase or otherwise does not appear by whom it was converted into an asylum or hospital^ for the reception of twelve indigent men, who are called brethren, together with a master who must be a clergyman of the church of England ; and, in preference to all others, if he offers himself, the vicar of St. Marys. Tlie land, with which it is endowed, was at that time valued at ^200. per ann. but the clear annual value at present falls little short of ^2,000. The vicarage of Hampton-in-Arden is in the gift of the brethren, who have hitherto usually bestowed it upon the master. The appointment of the master and of the bie thren is vested in the heirs general of the noble founder, who is, at this time, John Shelly Sydney, Esq. of Penshurst Place, in tlie county of Kent. In filling up the vacancies, as they occur, natives, or inhabitants for five years at least, of U^arwickshire and Gloucestershire. alone are eligible; and of these the priority of choice nmst fall upon such as are natives or inhabitants of the LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. ^9 Qualifications for Admission Internal regulations. S .III II I 1 five following places, each taken successively in the fol- lowing order fVarwich, Kenilworth, Stratford-on-Avon, IVooton-under-Edge, and Arlingham. In all cases the preference must be given to those, if any, who have been wounded or maimed in the seiTice of their country. Every candidate must be in such circumstances of indi- gence as not to possess more than the value of ^5 a year ; and he must, also, produce a written testimonial to his character from the minister and churchwardens' of th parish, where he last resided. On their admission, all the members are required to wear an a]>propriate dress, con- sisting of a blue gown, with the crest of a bear and ragged staff' fastened to the left sleeve : and, without this badge of distinction, they are forbidden to appear in public. ^The whole institution is placed under the control of the Bishop, the Dean, and the Archdeacon of Worcester, who are the appointed visitors, and of the Recorders of IFarwich and Coventry. Such were the regulations, established by the founder of Leicester's Hospital ; and these continued un- altered, till the year 181.3; when, on the a])plication of the Heir General, some important and beneficial changes were introduced by Act of Parliament. It had long been known that the clear annual rental of its estate greatly exceeded all that could be required for tbe comfortable support of the number of the brethren, hitherto admitted into the hospital. It had also been remarked, with regret, that the salary of the master, unalterably fixed, by the statutes of the founder, at ^bO yer annum, v/as, for a person of the rank of a clergyman, a very inadequate provision ; though, as the original value of the estate was ^200 a-vear, it was the evident intention to give one- 100 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. Increase of the Muster's Salury and of the number of Brethren. fourth of the rental, whatever might be its amount, to the master. But the introduction of the words ^^ fifty 'pounds"' defeated the intention ; and, according to the rules of law, left the master without the possibility of the smallest increase of income, however necessary to support the dignity of his station. To advance, therefore, the salary of the master, and to increase the number of the bre- thren, were the two great objects proposed by the ncAV act. From the statement, laid before Parliament, it ap- pears that, after the payment of certain sums, under the head of taxes, coals, candles, kitchen expences, repairs of the hospital, and wages of the nurse, the brethren received about ^130 a year each. With a humane and generous regard to the interests of the prfesent brethren, the act leaves them in the undisturbed possession of this large annual income ; but provides, on the admission of every new member, as vacancies occur, by death or otherwise, that the annual income of every such new member shall not exceed ^80 ; and that the surplus, being about ^50 per annum, shall be appropriated, one moiety to the gra- dual increase of the master's salary, till it amounts to ^400 per annum ; and the other moiety to the formation of a fiind for the support of additional members, who are to be admitted in succession, till the number of the whole is increased to twenty-two. The qualification of property, also, before fixed at ^5 per annum, is now very properly changed to ^50, being not more than a due proportion to the decreased value of money, and the increased pre- sent rental. After having provided for the establishment of these new and most important regulations, the act re- cites all the original statutes and ordinances of the foun- der, and declares them to be in force, and to continue so, ivithout any abatement or variation whatever. LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. iM Present State of the EdiJ'ue. The buildings of Leicester's Hospital, thongh rery ancient, as already mentioned, are still kept in good repair. They form a complete quadrangle, enclosing ^ court of considerable space, having a cloister or passage round two of its sides. Entering into this court, under a gate-way, the house, appropriated to the master, appears in front. This is spacious and good ; and, behind, is a large garden. On the right, are the stairs, leading to the lodgings of the Brethren ; each of whom has a sepa- rate and convenient apartment : besides which there is a large kitchen for common use. On the left, is the great hall, once the scene of splendid and even royal festivities ; which still retains striking marks of its ancient grandeur. It is, however, by the new Act of Parliament, soon to be converted to the humbler and more useful purpose of fur-? nishing suitable apartments for the ten additional mem- bers. It measures 90 feet by 24 ; but, probably, once extended at each extremity much farther. There is an inscription, still preserved on one of its walls, importing that, in this hall, James I. was entertained in a manner becoming his high dignity, by Sir Fulk Greville, Chancellor of the Exchequer, Sept. 4, 1617. Adjoining to Leicester's Hospital, and belonging to it, is *S'^. James' Chapel. This was given by Roger de Newburg, in the reign of Hen. I. to the church of St. Mary, when it was made collegiate. It afterwards fell into disuse and decay. But in the reign of Rich. II. the advowson of it was granted* to the guild o^ St. George, by Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwich, who built In tliis grant it is called the Church "J St. James; but afier-.vards tlie original appellation of Chapel was resumed. 102 LEICESTEirS HOSPITAL. St. James' Chapel, ^ the present chapel, or at least the tower of it. After the general dissolution, this Chapel, together with the Hall, and the other huildings, passed into the possession of Sir Nicholas Le Strange, and finally into that of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, hy whom it was assigned to its present use. It is small, but well-proportioned and beautiful ; handsomely fitted up, and kept in the most perfect order, for the use of the brethren, the master, and his family, who daily assemble here for morning and evening prayer, except on those days when service is performed at Sf. Marys, where their attendance is then required. Round it, are hung the statutes of the Founder, which are ap- pointed to be publicly read once every year; and, also, on the admission of every new member. At the eastern extremity is the Communion Table ; over which is a good picture of the Ascension, painted by Millar, a jmpil of Sir Joshua Reynolds, and an artist of considerable talent and reputation. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 103 Founded prior to the Conquest made Collegiate bj/ H. de ]S!e/rburg. CHAP. XII. ,;&t. iatarp jS Cljutcfj. Earli/ histort/ destruction hif the great fire re-erection the tower the interior monuments in the north and south transepts ri mains of the second Thomas Beuuchump's monument the choir grand monument of the first Thomas Beauchamp other monuments the lobby the chapter- house monument of Fulk Lord Brooke the veslrj/-room. \JF the original foundation of St. Mary's Ckurch, there is no remaining account. It existed prior to the Norman conquest : since it is mentioned in Doomsday Book, as having one hide of land belonging to it, which was given by Turchill, the last of the Saxon Earls. Tlie design of making it collegiate, with a dean and secu- lar canons, was formed by Henry de Newburg, first Earl of the Norman Line ; and it was afterwards carried into execution by his son Roger, the second Earl of the same line. This took place in 1123, the 23d of Hen. I. when the other churches were united to it. During the reign of Edward HI. the present choir was founded by the first Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of PTarwick ; and, in 139-1, tlie whole body of the Church was rebuilt by his second son, Thomas, who, on the death of his eldest brother succeeded to the Earldom. In the same reign, by an ecclesiastical decree, as already men- tioned, divine service was discontinued in the other 104 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. Supposed ancient relics Destruction by Fire. churches ; and all the inhabitants were ordered to repair for their devotions to this church, and that of St. Nicho- las only. Of valuable relics, as they were esteemed, in the days of superstition, few religious edifices possessed more than St. Marys. Amongst many others were the follow- ing ^part of the chair of the patriarch Abraham part of the burning bush of Moses part of the hair of the Blessed Virgin ^part of the manger in which the infant Jesus was laid part of the pillar to which he was fas- tened, when scourged part of his crown of thorns part of his cross part of the towel in which his body was wrapt by Nicodemus part of the hair of Mary Mag- dalen part of the face of Stephen.* It has been already mentioned that, at the general dissolution, this Church, together with that of St. Nicho- las, was granted, by letters patent, bearing date May 15, 1546, to the inhabitants of Warwick, and their succes- sors. It was then valued at ^333 2*. 4d. Out of this sum, were paid the stipends of the several officers, em- ployed in the celebration of divine service ; which then consisted of a dean, six canons, ten priests, and six choristers. In 1694 great part of the Church was destroyed by the dreadful fire, so often mentioned in the couise of this work. Though the progress of the devouring flames was sto]j]ird before they reached this noble edifice ; yet uiib;jpjjily the fire was communicated, by means of some V. Dugdalb's Watw. org. E. p. 3')6. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 105 lie-erection after a design of Sir C. Wren. half-burnt goods inadvertently deposited within it, as a place of safety. Most fortunately, the venerable choir, and the exquisitely beautiful chapel, on the south side, together with the chapter-house, the lobby, and the vestry- room, on the north, escaped uninjured. The erection of the new portion of this edifice, as it now appears, was completed in the year 1 704 ; and the expence defrayed partly by royal bounty, but chiefly by public liberality. The architecture is a singular, and in- deed absurd mixture of different modes ; and yet the design of it is attributed to no less a person than Sir Christopher Wren. It is well known, however, that most of the walls in the body of the church were, after the fire, left standing ; and that these were repaired, and the tower erected, by John Smith, an architect of some note at Warwick. But whether the plan, he adopted, Avas, in whole, or in part, the work of that consummate master of his art, just mentioned, one would be stronglv inclined to doubt.* Certain, at least, it is, that the utter incon- sistency of the newly erected with the old remaining part ;^ that the strange violation of all architectural rule in the formation of the great windows, with their double row of cumbrous Saxon arches, terminated above by such grotesque and barbarous forms as were never before * The facf, however, must not be concealed, that in the Library of Ail Saints <}llege, Oxford, amongst the archiiectural drawings and designs of Sir C. Wren, is the design of Warwick Church, What will be said to liie following account of Mr. Gilpin ? " 'i'lie Church is " an elegant GoUiic structure. A considerable part of it was lately dtsiroved : but it "is rebuilt with great symmetry." North. Tour, v. i. p. ."37. Surely so scciiiate an f>b. server and so excellent a judge could not have seen whiit he pretended to dcstiibe; or else, v))at he had seen, he must afterwards have totally forgotten ! Never were jli'ce worO.s elegant go'Jiic symmetry so strangely misused, O io6 ST. Mx\RY'S CHURCH. I'rincipal Kutrame Inti /'.). seen ; and that the jumbling mixture of round and pointed arches in the tower, discover little of that taste and judgment, which usually display themselves in the other works of one of the first and greatest of British architects.* But notwithstanding these great faults, upon the whole, St. Mary's Church presents the appearance of a handsome and stately pile. The tower in particular is finely proportioned : and, from a base of 36 feet square, rises to the lofty height of 130 feet, with uncommon beauty and grace. It is built on four groined arches ; and contains within it ten bells and chimes. Those, whose curiosity may lead them to ascend to the summit of this tower, while the bells are ringing, will perceive in the Mirprising degree of vibratory motion, communicated to the whole body of it, a proof of its true and excellent workmanship. INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH. Under the tower is the princi])al entrance into the interior of the church ; and from this point, the view down the middle aisle, through the chancel, terminated by the east window, is strikingly grand. The whole length is 186 feet: and the breadth, measured along the transept, 106 feet. * It is wel! known ilint Sir C. \Vi!Em enter(ained strong prejudices against llie ancient eccKsiusiicai arciiiicctiire (>f this country. In liis admirniioii of ilie regular jtpiponions and exquisite synimelry of the classical buildingi of antiquity, lie was ltd to despiiC the buhl and grand irregularities of the ancient English s'vle; by hiiii, first, named Gothic, an epitliet, intendtd to convey ideas of ignorance and barbarism. Tliut Sir C. Wren did not well undoistand this ityle of buildi p, is evident, amongst Oilier instances, from the incongtuuui manner, in which lie liniiihed (he towers of iyatmliisier Abbev. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 107 Middle Aisle Monuments in the North Transept. At the entrance of the middle aisle, is the baptis- mal font, of marble ; and above, is a loft, containing the large and excellent Organ, built by Swarebrick, and lately removed from the eastern extremity : by which judicious alteration, the fine view just mentioned, down the "long drawn aisle" is left uninternipted and uninjured. The galleries are spacious and regular, and the whole interior is commodiously and handsomely fitted up. One arrangement deserves notice, as remoA^ing a serious in- convenience, frequently complained of, in attending pla- ces of worship, during wet or wintry seasons. At the four extremities of the principal aisle, four large stoves are placed, concealed under the form of urns, standing on pedestals. The monuments in the body of the church, are chiefly to be seen in the north and south transepts. They are not very numerous, nor, with one or two exceptions, very remarkable ; as might, indeed, be expected, Avhen it is remembered that all the ancient monuments were destroyed by the great fire, of which few have been re- placed by others. In the north transept are the six following marble monuments, each with a Latin inscription one, to the memorv of John Gibbon, of a good family, in Stafford- shire, 1693, another to the memory of Will. Johnson, Physician, of JVarwlclx, and Anne, his wife, who bequeathed all her estates to charitable uses 1 "J '3^ a third, to the memo- ry of Francis Charrocke, of an ancient and honorable family in Bedfordshire, 1727, a fourth, remarkable for its quaintness, to the memory of Franc is Holyoak, and several of his family, 1730; sonrj of wlioni were consi- o 2 108 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. Monuments in the South 'J'runsept. derable scholars; and one of whbm was master of Ritghy School, for the long space of 43 years a fifth, to the memory of Thos. Hewitt, 1 735, prepared by hhnself, ju- dicious and impressive in its topics ; and, for its latinity, one of the best, though not quite faultless and a sixth, to the ancient family of Staunton of Longhridge, within the precincts of the borough 177^- ^^ this transept is, also, a marble monument to the memory of George and Mary Webp, 1743: and another, more remarkable than all for its singularity, and its antiquity, to the memory of Thomas and Joan Oken, with their portraitures in brass, 1573.* To this monument, damaged by the fire, a marble tablet has been added by his feoffees, with a long inscription, commemorating the private worth, the public honors, and the charitable bequests^ of that distinguished benefactor of his native town. In the south transept, are three marble monuments, one, with a Latin inscription, to the memory of Will. ViNER, the honored and faithful steward, for 40 years, of the celebrated Fulk Lord Brooke, 1639, the se- cond, also, with a Latin inscription, to the memory of John Norton, deputy recorder of IVaricick ; and several of his family, 1709 and the third, with an English in- scription, to the memory of Henry Beaufoy, Esq. of Edmonscott, in this county ; one of whose daughters was married to Sir Samuel (iarth, distinguished as a poet of some eminence; and, still more, as an enlightened, an active and benevolent physician. The two last were erected in the place of others destroyed by the fire. Thk. ifi'cripiioii \% as follows, ' Of your cliaryte give thanks for llie joule* of " TuowAS Okf.n o;i(J Jove liis Wylf; on wliose souls Jesus has mercv ; Jtsus has iniic^ Amen Reneuil;er ihe charjie of the poor for ever, mdlxxiii.' ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 109 Monument of tite Second Tltoma& Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. But in this transept, are to be seen the small remains of a most splendid monument, which will attract particular attention. It was erected to the memory of Thos. Beau- champ, second Earl of that name, and Margaret Ferrers, his wife, daughter of Lord Ferrers. The original monument,* which stood near the present, was an altar tomb, surmounted with a rich canopy, forming a half subast arch, adorned with the arms of Beauchamp and Ferrers. The long, pompous, and wretchedly af- fected Latin inscription, put up by the Parliamentary Commissioners, in l/O^j is a perfect contrast to the con- ciseness and simplicity of the ancient, Avhich, also in Latin, may be thus translated " Here lies Thomas " Beauchamp, Earl of IVarwich, who died Ap. 8, 1401, "and Margaret his wife, who died Jan. 22, 1409. God *' be merciful to their souls!" The present monument consists only of the brass plate, which was taken out of the ashes after the great fire, and fixed against the east wall. On it are two effigies. One represents the Earl in plated armour, with a mail gorget, wearing a helmet, with a fronton of square studds. On his armour are two armorial bearings ; at his side, are a sword and dagger ; and at his feet, is a bear lying. The other represents his lady, wearing a kirtle, with long mitten sleeves, charged with her family arms, and a mantle, on which are those of her husband. Her hair is bound with a fillet ; and at her left foot, is a dog, looking up. Upon the upper border of the plate, were * A Print of it may be seen in Duodale's Warw.'. and in Couch's Dacrip- tion ef the Beauchamp Chapel. i See an exact representation of it in Gounn's Description, vith modern sash square, and is, in every respect, discord- ant with the architecture of the ChapeL The great eastern window, over the altar, still in a good state of presen ation, is composed of two mould- ings, surrounding a central compartment, divided into three days of two stories ; the whole of whicli is filled with 120 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. Monument of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. painted glass, representing numerous figures, coats of arms, and various devices, with names and broken sentences in- terspersed. Of these a minute account is given by Mr. GouGH, from which an extract will be found in the Ap- pendix.* In the north and south windows, there is no paint- ed glass except in the tracery ; and these are damaged and indistinct. The figures appear, however, to have been angels, playing on musical instruments. Those in the centre of the north window, robed and playing on musical instmmcnts, are peculiarly fine. Broken sentences and musical instmments are interspersed. Having attempted some account of this small but most beautiful chapel we proceed to describe the stately and elegant monument of its founder. Rich. Beauchamp ; for the reception of which it was expressly designed. This is an altar tomb of grey marble, placed near the centre of the chapel. On the slab lies the figure of the Earl, in brass gilt, large as life, and inferior to none in England, except that of Hen. VH. in IVestminster Abbei/. It is placed on a table of the same metal, and is protected by a herse of brass hoops gilt. The hair is short and curled ; and the head rests on a helmet, encircled with a coronet. The hands are elevated, but not joined. The body is clad in jdate armour, and the sword hangs at the left side. At the feet are a griffin and a bear muzzled, both sitting. At the extremities of the poles of the herse, are enamelled shields, j)endant from oak leaves, in starred quatre foils. Four of these shields, at each cud, have the Beauchamp Arms ((uaitered wiih those of the old Earls ; A|.j)cmJix, No. 7. ST MARY'S CHAPEL. 121 Monument of Richard beaucfiamp. Earl of Warwuk. and a shield of pretence, charged with three chevronels, and a fret quarterly, the last of which is the Despensefs arms. At the eastern extremity of the middle pole, are the arms of England and France ; and at the western, St. Georges Cross. x The niches, or housings, which surround this tomb, are exceedingly rich and beautiful. They are fourteen in number; and in them are'placed elegant statues, in copper gilt, male and female, all of them representing noble per- sonages, and relations of the founder.* Underneath are their coats of arms, enamelled on shields, in starred quatre foils. They are divided by smaller niches, in which are whole length figures of angels, holding scrolls, supported on perks. On the scrolls are inscribed '^^sit Deo laus et gloria : defunctis misericordia." The inscription in old English, comprised in two lines, is let into the upper ledge of the tomb, and is whim- sically interspersed throughout, with the bear and ragged staffi which occurs not less than 40 times. It imports that "Richard, Earl of IVarwich, after a long illness, died at the castle of Rouen, in Normandy, where he resided as Lieutenant-General of France, during the minority of Henry VI. ; that his body, deposited in a stone coffin, was brought over to England, and conveyed with funeral pomp to PVarwick ; that it was placed near the monument of his father, till the chapel was finished ; and that, finally, it was interred beneath the tomb prepared for it, according to the direction of his will, 1460.J * See Appendix, No. 8. X See Ihc llittorj of tliis Er1, p. 3C. 122 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. Monument cf Hubert Dudlei^, Earl of f.eices'er. About the middle of the 17th century, the floor of the chapel fell in ; when Earl Richard's coffin, beinj? either accidentally broken, or pnrposely unclosed, the body was fonnd perfect and fresh : but on letting; in the air, it raj)i(ily fell to decay. The Ladies of fVarimk had ring:* and other ornaments made of the hair. Besides the tomb of its founder, there are, in this chapd, three other splendid monuments, of which the first in ordef of time, is that of Robert Dudley, Earl of Lei- cester, the favcjurite of Queen Elizabeth, which stands tigainst the north Xvall. It consists of four Corinthian j)illars, supporting an entablature, placed over an arch, adorned iii front with a rich fascia, formed by cinque foils and the ragged staff, alternately disposed. Above the entablature, is a grand atchievettient in the C'entre ; and on each side, a kind of pyramidical temple, before which, stand a male figure on the right, and a female on the left. Just below the arch, on a table of marble, recline the statue of the Earl, in his coronet, clad in armour, covered with a mantle, and that of his Countess Lady Letitia, daughter of Sir Francis Knolles, in her coronet and mantle of ermine. The hands of both are elevated. These statues are finely sculptured ; but the appearance of the whole monnment is ostentatiously massy, without elegance of design, or proportion of j)arts. Within the arch, are sixteen flags, charged with as many armorial bearings. On the key stone, a])pears a cinque foil Erm. ; in the spandrils of the arch, and under each pair of pillars, the arms o^ Dudley impaling Knolles. In front of the tomb, the arms of Dudley again appear in (juarterings. 'J'he atchievement over the entablature, pre- ST. MARY'S CHAPEL, 133 Monument of Robert Diuliiy, Karl of LeursUr. sents the arms oi Dudley with quaiterings impaling Knnlles, encircled by the garter, supported by two lions rampant, and surmounted by a crest, the bear and ragged staff, between two other crests, and a lion's head issuing from a helmet. Over these arms, is a cinque foil Erm. and above all, the bear and ragged staff'. Under the arch of this grand monument, is placed a Latin inscription, which proclaims the honors bestowed, with profusion, but without discernment, upon the royal favorite, who owed his fortune solely to his personal attractions, for of moral worth or intellectual ability, he had none. Respecting his two great military employments, here so pompously set forth, pnidence might have recom- mended silence : since, on one occasion, he acquired no glory, as he had no opportunity ; and, on the other, the opportunity he had, he lost, and returned home, covered with deep and deserved Jsgrace. That he should be ce- lebrated, even on a tomb, for conjugal affection apd fidelitv, must be thought still more remarkable by those who recol- lect that, according to every appearance of j)robabilitv, he poisoned his first wife ; disowned his second ; dishonored his third, before he married her ; and, in order to marrv her, murdered her former husband. To all this it mny be added, that his only surviving son, an infant, was a natural child, by Lady Sheffield. If his widowed countess did really mourn, as she here ailects, it is believed that into no other eye but her's, and perhaps that of his infatuated (^ueen, did a single tear stray, when Sept. 4, 1588, he ended a life of which the external splendor, and even the affected piety, and ostentatious charity, in vain, endeavours to conceal or sofien the black enormity of its guilt and shame. a 2 124 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. Monument of Ambrose Dudley, Earl /' Wnrwick. To the memory of the Countess herself, Lady Letitia, relict of Walter Devereux, Earl of Essex, is hung against the wall, a wooden tablet, containing a long string of jingling couplets, replete with pun and quibble, which come, however, from the pen of Gervas Clifton, a poet of some consideration in his day. To understand the last line, it is necessary to be known, that she died on the morning of Christmas Day, l634. At the head of Earl Richard's monument, stands that of Ambrose Dudley, brother of Robert, but of far higher and purer character. He was usually known by the honorable appellation ot the good Earl of Warwick ; and to a certain degree, he was great as well as good. His monument is an altar tomb of beautiful marble. On the slab, lying in full stature, is the Earl's figure ; clothed in armour, with a mantle thrown over it. His head, en- circled with a coronet, reclines ( i a mat, rolled up ; his hair, short and curled, and beard long. At his feet, lies a bear collared and muzzled. The sculpture is a good specimen of ancient art. Round this monument, are shields, with armoiial bearings,* finely executed : and under the slab, is an English inscription setting forth his birth and claims, as the surviving son of John, Duhe of Northumberland; recounting the progress of his honors, successively be- stowed by his Queen, the reward of great and real merit ; and finally closing with the account of his death, at Bedford Hoitse^ Y^h. 21, 1589, Jn consefjuence of a wound he received in the service of his country, though lor a dcscfiplion of iliesi-, kc Apprtidix, No. 9. ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 125 Monument of Robert, son of Robert^ Earl of Leicester. that honorable circumstance, is here modestly suppressed. According to his own desire, his body was conveyed for intei-ment in this place, where the present monument was erected by his surviving Countess. Near the altar, against the south wall, is the monument of Robert, infant son of Robert, Earl of Leicester. It is an altar tomb, the slab supported by four Corinthian pillars, on which lies the figure of a child, dressed in a coat and mantle. His head, bound round with a double row of pearls, rests on a cushion ; and at his feet, is a bear chained. Above the tomb, against the walls, are the arms of Dudley, with the quarterings, and on each side, the bear and staff. Around the sloping mouldings, are ragged staves ; below which, at each corner, and in the centre, are cinque foil Erm. On the front, an inscription appears, in English, to admit a view of which, the shaft of a Corinthian pillar, is represented, aukwardly enough, as broken off and removed, leaving both the base and the capital behind. This inscription declares the relationship of the infant, or, as it is here expressed, "the impe," with all the noble personages whose dust lie near, unconsciously mingled with the common earth. One remaining monument, requires still to be noticed. It is a marble tablet, placed over the north entrance, against the wall, inscribed to the memory of Lady Catherine, wife of Sir Richard Lewison, of Trentham, Staffordshire, grand-daughter of Robert, Earl of Leicester : to whose generous cares, as the inscription informs, we are indebted for the admirable state of pre- servation, in which this ancient fabric itself, and the precious remains of old English sculpture it contains, now 12(5 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. Moiiuwcnt of Ludi/ Lenison Rons' sujipoxed Librart/. appear. For the purpose of necessary repairs, she gave during lier life, ^'50 ; and left after her death, ^40 per annum, to he paid out of the manor of Foxley, North" amptonsliire. Sir William Dugdale, the celebrated anti(juary, is said, by his representations, to have prompted this bequest ; of Avhich, himself and his heirs, conjointly with the Mayor of Warwick, were made trustees for ever. We cannot conclude the account of this beautiful and venerable stnicture, without uniting our expressions of deep regret, with those of every judicious spectator, that a chaster mode of restoring the beauty of the interior had not been adopted, when, about thirty years since, it was put into a state of complete repair. Nor can we yet con- gent to relinquish the earnest wish, expressed more than fourteen years ago, by Mr. Ireland, and since repeated by many others, though it still remains ungratified, that the gaudy colours of the painter may l)e entirely removed, and the whole restored to its primitive simplicity and elegance I ROUS' SUPPOSED LIBRARY. To the left of the altar, a door opens into a small room, which is commonly supposed to be the library liujlt by the celebrated John Rous ; but upon the authority of Leland, and after him of Dugdale, we may venture to say, that this supposition is erroneous ; for, by them, it is expressly said, that this library was built over the south ]5orch of St. Marys Church.* * liihliulliecam ciain iiiiiiiuil in ipsa aiislrali por'icu funi Maux Warwici. Lfi.. ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 12; The Chant?!/ the CunJ'essiouiil. TrtE CHANTRY. On the north side of the Lady's Chapel, ascending by four steps, is. the Chantrl/. This is a small room 18 feet by 8, paved with red and black glazed tiles. The roof is formed by pendant capitals. On the south side are three grated windows, looking into the Chapel : near one of which is a small basin, about six inches in the diameter, with a small orifice at bottom, and a shaft, intended per- haps for holy water. At the east end is the scite of art altar, under the window, Avith a fascia of lozenge work ; and over it a lion*s face and a Beauchamp cross. On each side, is a very fine niche, with pedestals. In this window, on painted glass, appears a scroll, held, by a hand reversed, inscribed with imperfect sentences. THE CONFESSIONAL. On the north side of the Chantry, ascending by four well-worn steps, is a small apartment, called the ConJ'essiovaL The roof is fan fashioned with a central slip of quatre foils. There are three north windows, grated and closed, by sliding shutters, pierced in the gothic manner. At the eastern extremity is the confessional seat : near which is an oblique aperture, opening into the choir of St. Marys, through which according to common report, confession was made. Bat it is doubted by several anti- quarians, whether this room Was ever used for any such purpose. The situation so near tlie Choir and the high altar, they observe, was a very unusual place for re- ceiving confessions. Besides, confessionals were nothing more than small moveable desks ; and, in the present case, confessions, if made at all, nmst have been made to one of the Chantry Priests contrary to prevail- ing practice. The grated windows are singular; but the 128 ST, MARY'S CHAPEL. West Boom Exterior of the Chapel. oblique aperture was intended, they assert, for the pur- pose of enabling the chantry priest to see the high altar, at the time when the host was elevated. THE WEST ROOM. To the west of the confessional, on the same floor, is a passage, in which are four seats ; and opposite to them, the upper part of a window, closed up, as if once opening into St Mary's Chmr. This passage leads to a western room, nearly of the same size as the chantry ; the floor of which is paved with red and yellow tiles, and the roof is formed with pendant capitals. On the south, are three grated windows, looking into the chapel ; and oppo- site, the upper part of a window closed, similar to that in the passage. EXTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL. After this account of the interior, we must not omit to mention that a view of the exterior, will exquisitely gratify the admirer of ancient architecture. Under the three southern windows, are flat niches ; and above them is a fascia, formed of blank shields and oak leaves, dispo- sed alternately. The flying buttresses are richly ornamen- ted. At the extremities of these are niches, with pedestals for images : on the sides, are four small pinnacles, and a large one rises and crowns the whole. The east window is grand, and the tracery beautiful. Above this window, are three niches, occupied by as many figures ; that of the virgin, in the middle, seated, and her infant child, reclining on her lap ; and on each side, are two male figures robed. ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 129 Early History, CHAP. XIV* Early Hist ory present Structure the Tower t/ie Interior the Monuments Vicars since the Revolution, W HEN the Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was ori- ginally founded, is entirely unknown. There is reason, how- ever, to believe, that it existed, as a religious edifice of some description, prior to the Norman conquest. For, accord- ing to Rous, the Chancel of the Church, in his time, was more anciently the Choir to the House of Nmis, Avho oc- cupied the ground on which it stood, and much of the surrounding land, as far, in one direction, as .S"^. John^s Hospital. This very ancient Nunnery was destroyed by Canute, the Dane, I016. Yet, it should seem, it was afterwards rebuilt; since the town of Clopton was expressly granted* to the Nuns residing here, by Henry De New- burg, the first of the Norman Earls. After this time, however, as a Nunnery, it did not long subsist. For, by Roger, the second Norman Earl, 1123, it was granted, under the name of the Church of St. Nicholas, to the fraternity of Deans and Canons, lately established at St. Mary's. * DucpA'-F.'s Warwickihi'-e, page S36, Jones' Edit. 17o.>. R 130 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. Ptesfnt Structure. From that time, two Priests were appointed, by the Deans and Cajiom, with fixed salaries, to conduct the religious services of the place; to one of whom, the charge of all the inhabitants, on the north side of the Bridge was ronnnltted ; and those on the south side, to the other. But, in progress of time, these salaries were injuriously withheld; and, by the interference of Tideman, Bishop of Worcester, in 1401, instead of the former arrange- ment, a vicarage was established here, to which a certain proportion of tithes was appropriated. At the time of the general dissolution, this Church was granted, by royal 4iuthorit)', to the Burgesses of IVarwich, and their suc- cessors for ever. The present Church is a recent stmcture of which the design is greatly and justly censured as exhibiting a lamentable specimen of modern gntJiic. It is, indeed, a Avretched jumble of different styles; and, in no part, discovers a single instance of correct taste or judgment. The windows must strike every eye as disproportionably large, so as to give to the whole exterior, that lanthorn appearance, which some have strangely affected to ad- mire:* whilst the excessive glare within, is very different from " the dim religious light," which is so truly described by Milton, as best suited to a place of \vorship, and is, indeed, so awfully striking in most of our ancient eccle- siastical edifices. The old tower, found to be in a niinous state, so long ago as 1748, was then taken down; and, on its scite, was erected, by Johnson, an architect of irurwlcJf, the present tower, deformed by misshtipen windows, and crowned with a spire, which, in * So MiLNtR'f Kcclet. Architect p. 114 and 153. ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 131 Toteer Interior Monuments. itself,* is neverwell adapted to Gothic structures, and which, in the present instance, from the want of due elevation, has lost its just proportion. In course of time, the body of the Church began to discover the decays of age; and, in 1779> that too was taken down. In its place, arose the present edifice, built under the direction of Job Collins, an architect also of IVarwick ; and it is for ever to be re- gretted, that a plan, so totally devoid of merit, should have been chosen in preference to another, far superior, which was offered at the same time by Francis Hiorne, whose name has already been mentioned with respect in these pages. ^The Church was finished, and opened for divine service, Sept. 17. l/SO- At the west end, are the two principal entrances into the Interior of the Church, which is neat and com- modious ; and, during the winter season, is kept dry and warm, by means of two large stoves, in the shape of urns. The monuments within this Church are neither numerous nor remarkable. Of these, two erected in the vestry, and one in the body of the Church, are dedicated to the me- mory of several individuals of the family of Stoughton, who were formerly seated at Stoughton, in Surrey, and who trace their descent to a Norman ancestor, so far back as the Conquest. One of these is dated 1666; the other two are without dates. A fourth monument, is in- scribed to the memory of Katherine, daughter of Sir G. Tipping, Bart, of Draycot, Oxon, who married into Even Salitbury Spire, tiioiigli one of ihe loftiest and finest troctures of tlie kind in England, will scarcely be admired, considered as an appendage to a noble Gothic Cathedral. It is observable, ih-l as llie Gotliic taste advanced in purity, Spires were laid aside, and the Tower whs generallv adopted. SeeGiLPiN' Western Tour, p. bb. R 2 132 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. Vicars since the Revolution. the family of Stoughton, and died 1724 : and a fifth, to the memory of Aaron and Bridget Rogers, 1709. The presentation to this vicarage is vested in the Corporation. Vicars since the Revolution. Rev. Samuel Jemmet, 1673 W. Greenwood, M. A 1713 Marmaduke Mathews, M. A. 1769 Robert Miller, M. A 1778 Arthur Wade, M. A 1811 The second of the above mentioned divines, Mr. afterwards Dr. Greenwood, was an author of some con- siderable merit. Amongst other works, he published in 1763, Essays on the Creation^ or an attempt to explain, upon rational principles, the first chapter of Genesis; and this was followed, in 1765, by a Harmony of the Gospels, which adopts the plan of Dr. Macknigiit, with slight deviations, and to which a well-written preface, contain- ing some judicious observations, is prefixed. He likewise published an exposition of that most interesting and im- portant chapter, the 15th of the 1st Corinthians. He also fiirnished Bishop Newton, to whom he Avas related, with the notes on Paradise Lost, published, with his name af- ^':ed, in the learned Prelate's edition of Milton. These notes are not, however, very consideral)]e in nnmber ; nor, in excellence, can they be said to vie Avith the criticisms of Addison, Pierce, or Newton. With the vicarage of St. Nicholas, Dr. G. held that of St. Mary's, to which he was presented, on the resignation of Dr. Hodges, in 1724, through the interest of the Lady Dowager Baroness ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 133 hiographical Police of Dr. Greenwood. ToRRiNGTON. A curious account of what passed on that occasion, is still preserved, in the hand-writing of the Doctor himself.* The patronage of St. Mary's, it ap- pears, was then supposed to be in the Lord Chancellor, who was at that time the Earl of Macclesfield ; but, on making the proper application to him, Lady Torring- TON was informed that the gift was in the Crown and not in himself. The application was next made, therefore, through the Secretary, Lord Townshend, to the King ; the living was immediately given, as desired ; and yet when the instrument v>as presented to the Chancellor, he refused to affix the seals ; alleging that, on further en- quiry, he found the gift was really in himself, and not in the Crown, At the same time, however, he made an offer of it, on his own presentation, to the Doctor, who very properly refused to accept it, from him, without the previous consent of the King. But, on a second applica- lion for that purpose, the King insisted on his right ; long delays and disputes ensued ; till, after the Doctor " had been tossed a good while" as he himself expresses it, " from pillar to post, between Lincoln s- Inn- Fields and St. Janies\'' the Chancellor at length yielded, and the presentation passed the Great Seal. On the next pre- sentation, which was that of Dr. Tart, the same dispite again arose; which ended in finally determining the right to be in the Crown, and not in the Seals. In the year 1739, Dr. G. obtained another preferment, more valuable than all, in the rectory of Solihull, to which he was pre- sented by Lord Archer. He then, resigned the living * In ilie possecsiun of a Lady of IVarwick. From (his account our Readers will easiljr correct tlie error into wliich wc have ina.lverientl^ fallen, p. litj. 134 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. Bioernphiral Noticr of the Rev U. Miit'''us. of St. MarvSy but retained that of St. Nicholas. He died in 17^0; and was buried at the entrance of Lea- mbigton Chirr ch. Of his successor, first, in <.he vicarage of St. ISlcholas, and afterwards in that of St. Marys, the Rev. M. Mathews, the following short biographical notice, from the pen of one of his clerical brethren, was given in the IVarwick Advertiser y Oct. 2, 1810. " On Tuesday evening last, died, aged 73, " the Rev. Marmaduke Mathews, vicar of St. " Mary's, in this borough, and of PVellinghorough, in the " county of Northampton, Domestic Chaplain to the " Eaid of IVarwich, and one of his Majesty's Justices of " the Peace for this county. During a residence of 30 " years in this Borough, spent in the offices of the sacred " ministry, first as curate, next as vicar of St. NicholaSy " and then (for the last 32 years,) as vicar of St. Mary's, " he had endeared himself to its inhabitants by his sim- " pllcity of heart, great benevolence, and strict integrity. " And it was his enviable lot to go through the several " duties incumbent on him, as a magistrate, a clergyman, " and a christian, with an irreproachable character. After " a short illness, borne with resignation and cheerfulness, " he calmly closed his long series of active and laborious " services, m ithout a groan, generally respected, esteemed, '' and regretted.'' DISSENTING PLACES, &c. 135 Preshijteriun Chapel. CH4P. XV. Prtibyterian^ Chapel Independent Chapel Baptist Westleian Quaker's Meetins House. X O the account, given in the preceding chapter, of the two remaining Churches, we subjoin the following short notices of the places of worship, belonging to the various classes of Dissenters. PRESBYTERIAN CHAPEL. This Chapel, situated in the High-street, was built in 178O, on a piece of ground, given for the purpose, by the late Lord Warwick, together with an adjoining house, in exchange for the ancient edifice, which stood in the way of an intended enlargement of his pleasure grounds. It is a small but neat buildirig, presenting a stone front, with an urn at the summit. Ministers since the Revolution. Rev. J. Carpenter, 1700 James Kettle, 1746 B. Kingsbury, 1/86 Willi ajm Field, 178.9 136 DISSENTING PLACES Biographical Iilotice of Rev. J. Kettle Independent Chapel. Of the second of these divines ^the following short notice is copied from the Warwick Advertiser ^ Ap. 19, I806. " On Sunday last, died, at the advanced age of " 90, the Rev. James Kettle. He was born at Eves- '^ ham ; and, after the usual grammar education, was *^ sent to Glasgow; where he completed his classical *' and theological studies, preparatory to the ministeiial " office, for which he was destined. His prior settle- " ment, as a Minister, was at Dorchester ; whence he " removed to IVarwich. Here he preached 40 years, and " resided almost 60 ; and, through the whole course of " his long life, by the gentle, yet potent influence of that *' unaffected piety and goodness, which become the Chris- " tian Minister ; recommended by the placid and amiable " dispositions, which adorn the man; and accompanied " by the graceful and agreeable manners, which bespeak " the gentleman ; he secured to himself the esteem of his " friends, and the respect of all who knew him." independent chapel. This Chapel, situated in Coiv-lane, was erected about the year 176O; and was greatly enlarged and im- proved in 1798. It is a good building, of considerable size, and is well attended. Ministers since the Revolutioji. Rev. J. Newton, 17^9 J. Lombard, 1 "jGi A. Rowley, 1773 J. Moody, 178O W.Williams, I807 J. Percy, 1811 OF WORSHIP. 137 Biographical Sketch of the Jiev. J. A'euion. The first of these divines Mr. Newton the favored friend of Cowper and, in himself, no ordinary man, was born in London, 1/25. He was educated at a Boarding School, in Essex ; and, early in life, was sent to sea. Here, in the course of several voyages, he went through many sui-prizing adventures ; of which he has given us an interesting account, in his Letters of Omicron. Afterwards renouncing a sea-faring life; and, with it, many evil courses, into which he had unhappily run ; he became a religious character, and turned his thoughts to the Christian Ministry. In 1/59, he came to IVarwich; and officiated, for a short time, as Minister to the Independent Sociefi/^ then newly formed. Soon changing his views, however, he thought proper to conform to the established Church, and received ordination from the hands of the Bishop of Lincoln, 17^4. By the recommendation of Lord Dartmouth, he was appointed Curate of Olrm/ Church. Here, he continued 15 years; and here, he first formed an intimate acquaintance with the interesting and amiable recluse of JVeston. It was afterwards his singu- lar fortune, of which he Avas duly and even proudly sensi- ble, to introduce to the world, the most distinguished of modern Poets, by writing the Preface to the first of his published works. That Preface, it must be owned, is net very pertinently or happily written : and Cowper himself hesitated at first to admit it ; and seemed not vrell satisfied with it at last.* But the diffidence of the Poet, and the ambitious desire of his friend, to connect his own name with a name of so high a promise, finally prevailed ; and the Preface was printed. From Olney, in 1/79? ^^i- ^ removed to London, in consequence of a presentation, by Sue Ha^lty's Life of Cope', l!o. v. lii. p. 123, 126, 13?. 138 DISSENTING PLACES Bioarii/ihifo/ Notice of the Rev. J. Moodi/. the interest of John Thornton, Esft. to the Rectory of St. Mary, IFoolnooth, Lombard-street. Here liis earnest and assiduous preaching, recommended and enforced by a considerable degree of natural and fervid eloquence, aided, no doubt, hy the recollection of the extraordinary events of his early life, long attracted crowded audiences. In I8O6*, at the advanced age of 81, he retired from his public duties: and, within a few months following, a long and eventful life, highly chequered by the good and the bad, greatly in- strnctive as a warning in its earlier, and as an examj)le in its later period, was closed by an easy and tranquil death. His writings are numerous ; and, amongst that class of Christians, to which he belonged, which was that of Cal- rinists, they are still held in great estimation. The Rev. J. Moody, the third of the Independent Divines, was orginally engaged in trade, but afterwards attended the instructions of the Rev. Messrs. Brewer, Barber, and Kello, with a view to the j)rofession of a Christian Minister. In 178I, he settled at WainvicTi; and here for twenty-five years, continued his unwearied and most useful labours, in the sacred cause of religious truth, as it appeared to his own honest conviction. His ]irin(ij)les were those of the great Genevan Reformer, held in their utmost strictness. But his faith and piety were sincere and fen'ent; his heart was benevolent ; his morals were correct and exemplary; his manners amiable and sprightly; his theological and general knowledge was respectable ; and his ministerial services y.ealous, persevering, and emi- nently succes.sful. He died in 1 806* ; and was buried in his own chapel, where his merits are recorded upon a handsome tablet, the uork and the gift of that divtinguish- ed artist, his friend and his admirer, Mr. Bacon. He OF WORSHIP. 139 Baptist Meeting House lifv. J. Rylund. published several single Sermons ; and, after bis deatb, ap- peared a volume of Letters, wbicb give abundant proof that he was a sensible, reflecting and studious, as well as SI religious man. BAPTIST MEETING HOUSE. This was originally two dwelling-houses. About the year 1/44, it was converted into a place of worship, and given for the use of a Society of Baptists, by Mr. Thomas HuRD, a native of IVarwick ; who, also, left an estate in trust, towards the support of it. It is a small building ; but, by means of galleries carried round three of its sides, is capable of accommodating considerable numbers. It is furnished, as are all the places of worship belonging to this class of Dissenters, with ground for sepulture, im- mediately adjoining. Ministers since the Revolution. Rev. J. RvLAND, I'/ 46 Knight, 175.9 Stennett, ^777 P. Reece, 1/80 J. Wilson, 1795 Ed. Mabbutt, 1799 Wm. Read, 1S04 The first of the above Divines, Mr, Rvland, was a man of no little celebritv in his time, especially amongst tlie class of Dissenters, to Avliich lie more immediately be- longed. He was born October 12, 1723, at Ditch ford, near Shipstone, on the borders of this county. He received his education, preparatory to the ministerial s 2 140 DISSENTING PLACES Wesleian Methodist Meeting' office, in the Academy at Bristol; over which his son. Dr. Ryland, now jiresides. In 1/46, he was chosen Pas- tor of the Congregation, at IVarwick : and here, for the space of thirteen years, he continued to preach with much approbation and usefulness. In I759, he accepted an in- vitation to the pastoral charge of the Baptist Society, at Northampton ; where, with his ministerial labours, he united those of an instructor of youth ; and, in this new and important character, soon acquired high reputation. From Northampton, he removed to Enjield: and here, at the age of 69, he finally closed the course of an active and a useful life, devoted to all the great interests of knowledge, virtue, and religion, July 24, 1792. He was possessed of considerable abilities : but a strong and ardent imagination was not controlled by equal soundness, or strength of judgment : and a great degree of what is usually called eccentricity , marked not only the manner of his public services, but even his conduct in private life. He publish- ed several single Sermons, and some other small Treatises ; among which latter one of the principal is, " Contempla- tions on the IVorks of Creation" WESLEIAN METHODIST MEETING. This is situated in Gerard Lane, small in extent, and humble in appearance. The society to which it be- longs, as the name imports, is a branch of the numerous and growing sect, originally established by the highly distinguished, and truly pious and virtuous Wesley. Like tlic other Methodists, they have no settled Preachers ; but their public services are conducted by a succession of Preachers, of Avhom those that officiate in this place, belonged formerly to what is termed, by them, the Hinckley Circuit, and now to the Banbury Circuit. OF WORSHIP. 141 Quaker's Meeting House, aUAKERs' MEETING HOUSE. This is situated in the south-western extremity of High Street. It was built about the year 1671, on a piece of ground given by Mr. Edward Tustian, an inhabitant of JVarwich, for the use of the Society of Friends, residing in the town and its vicinity. It is a small edifice, fitted lip with all the characteristic neatness, which belong to this truly respectable class of Dissenters ; and there is a spacious ground for sepulture, immediately adjoining. ^m' 142 COUNTY GAOL. Sttilc of th( Old Priaon Foiinfi'ition of tfir ;\V?,ist of two rooms, the larger, 20 feet square; the smaller, 16 feet by 9. Their bedding is the same as that of the men ; but here, bedsteads with sacking bottoms, are al- lowed. In the Court-yard, belonging to the Common side Debtors, is the old Dungeon; to wliich the descent is by 21 steps; and which is liglited only by one small grated aperture, at the toj). Those who would enter into the feelings of just indignation, with which the great Philanthropist describes this Dungeon * as a place of con- finement for human beings, will rejoice to be informed, that it has not, for many years, been used for any sucli purpose; and that now, prisoners are never conveyed thither, * Howard oil Priso.i^, v. i. p. 270, v. ii p. V08. 148 COUNTY GAOL. Present state of the Intrrwr. except when conducted, in order to take their respective trials, through a subterraneous passage, which opens near it; and of which the other extreuiity terminates, by a good contrivance, near the Prisonera" bar, in the County Hall. Such are the several divisions of this well-planned and spacious Prison every part of which, we must now add, is plentifully supplied both with hard and soft water. It is white washed, once every year; and the whole is kept in a state of the most perfect order and cleanliness, so as to reflect great credit on its present superintendent; and to justify, it is hoped, the warm and liberal com- mendations, bestowed upon it, in his late excellent and most useful publication, by Mr. Neild* of whom it is high, as well as merited praise, to say, that he zealously pursues the plans, and nobly emulates the glory, of Howard. Alas I since this was written the afflicting in- telligence has been announced to the public, that the second Howard, is no more ! A life of laborious and benevolent exertions, directed, with little encouragement from those iu power, to the great object, of discovering and removing the abuses, and of preventing or alleviating the distresses of Prisons, terminated unha])pily for the miserable tenants of those gloomy abodes! Feb. l6, 1814. He has left, however, to the wisdom and humanity of his country, for the benefit of the most wretched of our species, an invaluable legacy, in his important volume, already alluded to, entitled, after those of his Great Predecessor, " The state of Prisons in England ami Wales,'" a work which he had com])letcd only a short time previous to his death. If this is a di- gression the Reader capable of appreciating, and honoring N'ild'Sfulf of Fiiso'i*. pngc 577, i See Cent. Ma^. Februan, lOll. COUNTY GAOL. 149 Allowances to the Prisoners Officers belonging to the Gaol. what is most exalting^ in human character, will easily pardon it. To return to the short remainder of our account The act for the preservation of health, and the clauses against the use of spirituous liquors, are conspicu- ously exhibited to view in several places. The daily allowance to each prisoner is one pound and a half of bread, sent in loaves from the baker, and always of full weight. Besides this stated allowance, the prisoners re- ceive from a legacy eight three-penny loaves, twice a month. They are regularly sent by Bernard Dewes, Esq,, of Welleshourne, in this County, who gives also a ton of coals to the Debtors, and the same to the Felons, every Christmas. At that season, also, a sum is usually given for the relief of the Poor Debtors, which fre- quently amounts to 40 or <^50. Gaoler, Mr. H. Tatnall, salaiy. . ^300 Chaplain, Rev. H. Laugharne, do. 70 Ditto, gratuity 30 Surgeon, Mr. Birch, salary 60 $ Niliil est tain regium, tani liberale, tamque munUicuiu,quam opein letre suj^piiciuus, excitare afHictos, &c. 150 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. Kn pel's House Vuiirtm'i Apartmenls. CHAP. XYII. Countp 25nticUjeIL Keeper's House Vagrants Apartment Mens' Court Yard The Factory Mens^ Apartment's Womens' Apartments Kcw Apartments for the Hoinen Neu; Warehouse and Dj/e House New Building for disorderly Apprentices and Servants The Chapel 'TAe Articles manufactured Internal liegulutions Present state of the Interior Allowance to yrisoners. x\ T a small distance from the entrance into the Gaol, on the opposite side of the same street, stands the Bride- well. It presents to view, the Keeper's House, with a handsome stone front ; terminated at each extremity hy a gate-way ; measuring in its whole extent 80 feet ; and di- A'ided from the puhlic street, hy a garden, wliich helongs to it. Of its two Gates, one conducts to the part appro- priated to the men ; the other, to that appropriated to the women. Passing through the former of these, and entering a small yard, on the right, is the Keeper's House, which, from its -.vindows, commands a view into the two nearer and principal Courts : and, on the left, is the Vagrants' AparTxMEnt. This is entirely detached from the rest of the Prison, hy a high wall ; and consists of two sleeping cells, properly divided from each other; one for the men, COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 151 Aleiis' Court Yard I'he Factory. and the other for the women. Each cell is about 10 feet square ; and to each is attached a Court-yard, 21 feet long, and 12 broad. From the outer Gate of the Pnson, just mention- ed, proceeding directly forward is another, which leads, down a flight of stone steps, into the Mens' Court Yard. This is dry, air)% and spacious, 'measuring 99 feet by 36 : and is nearly surrounded by the various buildings, so humanely and judiciously provided, not merely for the necessary shelter, but also for the profitahle employment of those who are doomed, by the offended laws of their country, to suffer confinement in this Prison. Of these various buildings, there are no less than four, besides the Keepers House, and the Vagrants^ cells, already mentioned, which form so many distinct depart- ments in this great and important establishment. These we shall proceed to notice in the following order the Factory the Mais' apartments, in which is the Chapel the IVomens' neiv apartments, in which are also the dye house, and the warehouse and the new building, for the reception of disorderly apprentices and servants. On the left side of the Mens' Court-yard, stands the Factory, two stories in height ; in which the comb- ing, spinning, and weaving of worsted, are carried on, to a considerable extent, and with the happiest effect, in the mutual advantage of the prisoners themselves, and of the country which they have wronged. On the basement storv, is the first workshop, 80 feet long ; containing a loom, a considerable number of spinning wheels, a carding ma- chine, and a twisting mill. Close to it, on the same floor, 152 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. Mens' ApartmentsWomfns' Apartments. is a combing and sorting room. On the upper story, is the second workshop, of the same size as the first ; in which are seven looms, ten spinning wheels, and a carding machine. Opposite to the Factory, stands the second, which is the central and principal building, extending along the whole eastern side of the court yard, and containing the apartments for the men. Here in the basement story, are a warm and a cold bath, an oven and a boiler, with pipes to conVey water into it, from the reservoir. The second story contains a day-room for the common use of the men ; and another for the exclusive use of the convalescents. Over this is the chamber story; in which is the chapel, three sleeping cells, and a sleeping room about 15 feet square. In the attic story, is a sleeping room, 30 feet bv 15, with partitions on the floor, to serve for the purpose of beds; a sick room, l6 feet by 14, furnished with wooden tnm-up bedsteads ; and adjoining to it, another room, pro- vided with a fire place, which is also for the use of the sick. In the same building, are distinct apartments for the women. These consist, on the ground floor, of a day- room, 27 feet by 16 ; on the second story, one sleeping room, 16 feet by 14, and two sleeping cells, 7 feet square ; on the upper story, one sleeping room, 30 feet by 16, and one sleeping cell, 7 ^'^^t square. The womens^ day-room opens into their own court yard, 83 feet long, though not more than 15 feet wide. Such are the apartments, at present, appropriated to the women ; but it must now be stated, that the whole of these are intended to be added to the apartments COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 153 JVcro Building for the Women. occupied by the men ; as soon as another spacious building, preparing for the reception of the women, is completed. This, which is the third of the four great buildings, extends along the uorthern extremity of the Mens' Court-yard, at right angles both to the Factory and the Central Building ; measuring 89 feet in length, and rising to the height of three stories. On the ground floor are the Dye-house, 30 feet by 15, properly fitted up with coppers and stoves ; the stove- room ; the wash-house, 15 feet by 15 ; and the womens' day-room, 31 feet by 15. On the second floor, is a spacious work-room, 65 feet long, and \A broad, capable of receiving from 40 to 50 spinning wheels ; a liglit and airy room for the use of the sick, 17 feet by 15 ; and a sleeping room, 31 feet by 15. On the upper story, is a sleejiing-room, the same size as the lower on 2, and the whole remaining part forms a capacious warehouse for receiving and storing the manufactured goods. FrOxM the regular system o^ employment, established in the Bridewell, it has long been considered, both by the judges and the. magistrates, preferable, as a place of confinement, even to the County Gaol ; though the latter is so much more S])acIons and commodious. In conse- quence, the number of prisoners sent hither, has of bite years, greatly increased; and in 180S, it was determined to enlarge it. About that time, accordinglv, the i'onndation of another building Avas laid, which has since been coin- pleted. This immediately adjoins the newlv erected buildiijg, last noticed, at right angk^s to it, standing in a spacious garden, from which a piece of ground 38 feet, hy 30, is taken for a court-yard, and surrounded bv a higli w;>I]. It is substantially buill, extending in front 5 4 feet, 1/ 154 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. AVrt' Building J'or disorderly Apprentices. and rising to the height of three stories. On the ground floor, are a day-room, l6 feet hy 12 ; a workshop 28 feet by 12; and two solitary cells. On the middle story are 8 single cells, 12 feet by 5 ; and on the up])er story, 2 single cells of the same size, and three double cells, measuring 12 feet by 10 J. Every cell has a glazed window, and an iron door ; and they are all furnished with iron bedsteads and chaff beds. This new building, the Fourth within the pre- cincts of this great Prison, will no doubt be found a very important addition to the various accommodations, which the well-judging humanity of the County has provided for those unhapj)y persons, whose crimes have rendered seclusion from society necessary : and it will certainly contribute to raise still higher the opinion, which has been formed of it, by competent judges, as one of the best in the kingdom. It is intended exclusively for the reception of disorderly apprentices and servants, and of persons convicted of smaller offences ; who will thus be kept en- tirely separated from others, whose crimes are of a deeper dye, or whose term of impnsonment is of longer duration. The Chapel, it has been already mentioned, is in the chamber story of the central building. It consists of two distinct rooms ; one for the men, 36 feet by l6 ; the other for the women, 13 feet by l6. These rooms have no other, communication with each other, except that of one high and barred window ; close to which, the Clergy- man's desk is placed, who is, tlierefore, seen and heard equally well in both. The womcns' room is an addition lately made to the Chapel, which before consisted only of that part, now approj)riated to the men ; and as it has COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 155 Articles mamifuctured Allowance to the Prisoners. been so pointedly noticed both by Mr. Neild* and by Dr. Lettsom,^ as much too small for the accommodation of the great numbers ; with which this prison is generally filled, and sometimes even crow ded we have great pleasure in thus distinctly stating, that a place of confinement, which has obtained from them and others, such high and deserved commendation, is no longer liable to the reproach of that single but serious defect. The following are the principal of the various articles manufactured in this Prison. Scotch and Venetian carpets woollen webs rollers ^braces Jersey aprons Linsey petticoats coloured tammies blankets bed rugs and horse cloths. ^The goods are most of them sent to London, Sirmingham, PFalsall, Dudley, Lincoln, and Stamford. All prisoners v/ho work, receive 2d. or 3d. in every shilling out of their earnings, which is paid them weekly. The amount of earnings from January 1813, to January 1814, was about .3^350, and the number of hands employed during that time, was from 40 to 50. The stated allowance to all the prisoners is one pound and a half of bread each per day. One hundred weight of coals a day, in the winter months, and half a hundred in the summer months, are allowed to tlie men, and the same to the women ; besides firing for the sick rooms. Chaff beds, and two rugs to eacli, are allotted to all the prisoners. The men are attended by a barber weekly ; and they have clean linen once every week, which is washed and mended by the women. Soap and towels are allowed to all. In cases of sickness, the Surgeon Ntild's State of Piisi.n-, p. .i7.>. * LettsomV Letter, Gc;.t. Mag. April, 1310. U 2 156 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. Intetnal Kegu/ations. orders what he judges necessary, at the expence of the County. The women are generally supplied with clothing from the prison manufactory ; which, if wanted, is given them, when discharged. A donation is also made to everj' prisoner, on being released, according to the distance from home, and behaviour during confinement. One or two sihirts, or shifts, a pair of shoes, or a jacket, are presented to those, who have been imprisoned six months. The act for the preservation of health, and the clauses against the nse of spirituous liqnors, are hung np conspicuously to view in the prison. The whole of it is white- washed once every year ; and the greatest order and cleanliness prevail through every part of it, under the careful management of the present conductor, whose services have been desen^cdly marked Avith public aj)pro- bation, by the very considerable addition made to his salary. Before we close this account of JVarwick Bride- well, Ave cannot refuse ourselves the pleasure of transcribing the following favorable notice of it, from the pen of Dr. Lettsom so long known, and so highly distinguished for his indefatigable exertions to improve and perfect in itself, and to promote throughout the world, the astonish- ing and tnily humane system of recovering persons from apparent death ; as well as for his ardent and active en- deavours, on all occasions, to prevent or relieve, in every most wretched fonn, the distresses of human life. " We " have fre(juently occasion, "says that enlightened and benevolent Physician," to notice the lamentable state " of Bridewells and Woikhouses but, as a contrast, let " the attention be transferred to that of the Brideucll in COUNTY BRIDEWELL. UJ Officers belongivg to the Prison. " IVarwick ; where industry is encouraged, and where the " product of labor is appropriated to promote its exercise. " It shoukl, indeed, be contemplated by every Magistrate ^' and Overseer in the kingdom." Gent. Mag. April, 1810. Keeper, Mr. Jos. Chaplin, salary ^200 Chaplain, Rev. H. Laugharne, . . Surgeon, Mr. Birch, 158 HISTORY OF Fourtf/ed 1)1/ Htheljicda, dauiihier of Alfred. CHAP. XVIIK J^i.f(torp of il^attaicfe a?tle. Tounded hi/ Eihel/^eda strengthened and enlarf>ed by order of William I. anet granted by liim to Henry de ^'ewbiirg' garrisoned by the royal troops in the reign of Henry II. surprised, and in port destroyed, in the reign of Henry IIL transferred from the family of De lieu-burg, to that of De BefivchiiMp, m thi' reign of Edicard I. repaired by the Jirst Thomas de Beauchainp Guy's Torrer built by the Second Thomos de Beauchamp seized by the Crown, in the reign of Richard II. restored enlarged and improved, In/ George D. of Clarence again seized by the Crown Beer Tower besnn by Richard II f granted to John Dudley escheated to the Cronn granted to Ambrost Dudley reverted to the Crown grantid ii- Sir Fitlke Grerille 7 epaired and adorned by himgteutly improved and embellished by the lute and the present Earls of Waruicl. JlT appearsj according to the Saxon Chonicles,that a Castle was founded at JVarwick, by Ethelfleda, the accom- plished danghter of Alfred the Great, in the year 915.* In these early times, a Castle usually consisted of a monnd of earth, taken from the fosse, surrounding the whole ; on which a square tower was erected, called the Keep or Dungeon : though the former of these terms be longs more properly to the higher parts of the building, in which the family resided ; and the latter, to the deep cells, designed for the detention of miserable captives. DugO. Jones' Kdi.ioii, 17 6o, p. 308, &c. WARWICK CASTLE. 159 Strcni^thcned h/ order of William I. g'anled to Henry de Ncwlur^. Of the ancient Saxon Castle^ at IVarwich, probably, nothing more remains except the mound of earth ; within which, however, there is every reason to suppose, the lower parts of the Dungeon^ if sought, would still be found. The several parts of the Castle, as at present it appears, were built, it is certain, at different times ; nor can it be proved that any of these are older than the period of the Norman Conquest. Caesar's Tower is ge- nerally considered as the most ancient ; but of its erection nothing is known : and the name was, in all probabilitv, given to it, as well as to one of the Towers of the neigh- bouring Castle of Kenilworth, from no other motive, but that of veneration for the Ancient Romans. At the time of the conquest, as already related,* TuRCHiLL, the reputed Earl of IVarwich, was employed by Will. I. to repair and enlarge this important Fortress; and, on that occasion, four houses were destroyed, which belonged to the Priory of Coventry. Distrustful, however, of TuRCHiLL, the CoNftUEROR soou removed him from the custody of the Castle ; and committed it to one of his own followers, Henry de Newburg, who was the first Earl of the Norman line. Wedgnock Park was formed by him, and added to the domains of the Castle. In the reign of Stephen, the royal garrison, here stationed, was driven out, by Gundred, Countess of Warioick ; and the Castle delivered to his great rival, afterwards Henry 11. In the reign of this latter prince, when his son appeared iii arms against him, the Castle again received a royal garrison. Bertram de Verdon was then Sheriff of the county ; and the amount of his charges, for supplies of * Page 6. 160 HISTORY OP Trunstetred In/ marriage to the famili/ of De Beauchnmp. ' provision, for wages of the soldiers, and repairs of the Castle, still remain upon record. || In the same reign, the garrison was increased, by the addition of two knights ; which before consisted of five knights and ten Serjeants. A remarkable proof of the importance, that was attached to this Castle, occurs, in the reign of Hen. III. On account of its strength, and its advantageous situation, as expressly mentioned,^ by a royal precept, directed to the Archbishop of Yorh, and to William de Cantalupe, Margery, sister and heiress of Thomas de Newburg, sixth Earl, was required to give good security, that she would not contract herself in marriage to any person, in whom the King could not place his most entire confidence. But strong as the Castle was by its fortifications, or by the nature of its situation, it soon appeared that it was not impregnable. For, in the same reign, 1205, William Mauduit, then Earl of JVarwich, who bad taken pait with the King against the Barons, was suqnised in it, by John Gifford, governor of Kenilworth Castle. Great part of tlie walls was destroyed :* the Earl and his Countess were carried away captives ; and were aftenvard* obliged to pay for their ransom, IQOO marks.;]: From the family of De Newburg, the possession of the Castle, and its sun'ounding domains, passed into that of De Beauchamp, by the maniage of Isabel, in II For2f)(jrs. of bieifl cr)rii, iii 13s 4d. 20 q'S. of raalt.^l. 60 oxen sailed down ^590 clictst). l 10s. od. salt ^lioldier'* wages, ^30 lOs. 8d. repairs, ^:> 7s. Oii . 5 ' E<> fjiioJ C8< before, bjf Biahop Corbetl, ia hU Iter Eoreale, referred to, page 7 1. A place of streiigtii and healtli ; in ilie same fort You would conceive a castle and a court. The orchards, gardens, rivers, and the aire. Doe witli the trenches, rampires, walls compare: It seems not art, nor force can iniercepi ii. As if a lover built, a soldier kept it. X 2 l64 HISTORY OF, &c. Cdstle and its iiionnds cn'.iir'it.i and adorned bit the late and the present Earls. But the title of Earl of IVarwich, after tlie death of Ambrose Dudley, lay dormant thirty years ; and "W'hen revived, it was in favor of another family, as already related.* When, however, it again became extinct, on the death of Edward, Earl of IVarwich and Holland, with- out male issue ; it was once more revived, in the person of Francis Greville, father of the present Earl, great grandson of Robert, the nephew and adopted heir of the first Lord Brooke. He had been previously raised to the dignity of an Earl, by the title of Earl Brooke ; and was created Earl of IVarwick^ by letters patent, bearing date November 27, 1759. By Francis, Earl of IVarwich, and by his son, the present Earl, great and extensive improvements, have been made in the Castle, and its grounds ; of which we shall now proceed to give some account in an attempt to describe its present state. But here all description must fail ; and, in order to form a just, or at least, an adequate idea, either of its external grandeur, or internal splendour, it must be seen. We hope, however, to succeed so far as to point out, with some degree of taste and judg- ment, M'hatever is most deserving the attention of the stranger ; and to furnish such information, as will enable him to see, with greater pleasure, and to recollect after- wards, with more distinct impression, what he has seen. Fut :;/. APPROACH, &c. 165 Cdstelluted entrance to the Castle. CHAP. XIX. ^pproacfj to tfje a.sftle^ The Entrance Near View of the Castle Inner Court. vJN the eastern side, near an open space of ground, adorned with thriving plantations, is the principal en- trance into the Castle. Here an embattled gate-way, with a lodge, has lately been erected : looking, indeed, with scarcely sufficient dignity,* for the situation it occu- pies, but intended only as a temporary erection. Passing through this entrance, the grand approach is conducted, by a broad and winding road, deeply cut through the solid rock ; which in itself presents a striking appearance, and is clothed on each side, with moss and ivy, and crowned with trees and shnibs of every diversified form, and every various hue. So judiciously curved, and thickly planted, is this approach forming a fine sweep, extending in length, more than 300 feet ^thut eveiy other object is excluded from the sight ; till, at a sudden turn, the Castle itself, in all itb magnificence, bursts, at once, on the astonished and delighted view, with great, and even sublime effect. The part of the ground, now entered, was anciently the T^'meyard ; where, it is recorded, abundance of fruit Avas See, however, what is said, p. A?. Considering ihe inipos-tibility, from tlie great distance, of suflRciently connecting the Lodge with the Cubtle ; and the difficiiliy of forming any design for the former, which could at all vie with the venerable grandeur of tiie latter it raav, also, be questioned whether a plain erection, like the present, without any pretsnsions whatever, is not preferable to any attempt at something greater. l6S APPROACH TO a ' .' ii^M ^ .iw tin- near vieic of the Cost/e. I k li t gathered, even so far back as the time of Henry IV.^ hat whether this fmit was really the grape, has been the subject of much dispute. It is now inclosed ; divided from the town, and shut out from the view of all its meaner buildings, by a screen of trees whose rising summits, even St. Mary's Tower, and St. Nicholas' Spire, lately to be seen here, are no longer able to overtop. In the higher grounds, however, they still appear formins:, from several points, fine objects. Approaching towards the inner court ^the ijiear VIEW OF THE Castle, with all its solemn towers and battlements, mantled with ivy, and shaded with trees, and shnibs, of large size, and luxmHant growth, aifords a display of ])icturesque beauty and grandeur, scarcely to be exceeded. On the right, appears the mighty Tower of Gvi/, a polygon, of t\^elve sides, whose walls are of two feet thickness ; rising, with the most exact and beautiful proportion, from a base of thirty feet diameter, to the lofty height of 128 feet. It is of the kind, called ma- cA/co/a/ef/ having its open parapets projected from the walls of the tower itself, and supported by brackets, so as to leave a considerable interval between ; through which, boiling lead might be poured, or stones thrown down, on the heads of the assailants. Erected in tlie days of Richard II. this tower has stood unmoved, through the long course of four revolving centuries, nor does it yet discover any marks of decay. But even this appears little, when compared with the age of Ci^sar's Tuicer, on the left; the most ancient of the whole; wliich, in all pro- From the Biiiii'i Account in ilie .'>d of Henry IV. it up|>ciirs, ilmt wages were paid ! S"roe women or j:lli>ring grapes, dmiii'; ilic paceol five ^\ns^. Du^d. Jones'i Ediiion' %76b, p. 'MO. See the lenrned Dr. I'e^'ge's Dtsseilalion un llie subject. THE CASTLE. iSf Double Arch Gale-wutf into the Inner Court. bability, is nearly, if not quite as old, as the period of the Norman Conquest, Through the vast space, therefore, of 700 years, the tower of CjEsar has resisted all the accidents and decays of time ; even the sharp edges of the stones are not yet worn away ; and it remains, at this mo- ment, almost as firm and solid as the very rock, on which it stands. Its singular irregularity of constniction, may puzzle the architectural antiquary ; but the eye of the spectator gazes, and admires. From its foundation on the naked rock near the bed of the river, it rises with majestic form, to the prodigious height of I47 feet; though its rival tower, seated on the higher parts of the rock, still looks down upon it. The turret on its top is said to bear a striking resemblance to one of the towersi of Chepstow Castle ; which is known to be of early Nor- man erection. Cesar's, as well as Guv's Tower, is machicolated, and they are connected together, by a strong embattled wall ; in the centre of w^hich is the great Arched Gate-way, leading into the inner court, flanked with towers, and succeeded by a Second arched Gate- way, with other towers and battlements loftily aucending far above it. Before this whole front, is a deep moat, now kept dry, and formed into a grass walk ; over which, an arch is thrown where, formerly, was the drawbridge. Vast and irregular masses of clustering ivy, and the dark shading of high-aspiring .and wide-branching trees, which are every where interspersed, embellish and complete the picture. Passing through the long arched passage, formed by this double Gate-^way, anciently defended by two port- cullises, one of which still remain the Inner Court opens to view; and_, here, scarcely can even the most indifferent 168 APPROACH TO Inner Court of the Castle. spectator enter, without feelings of high and avvfiil, yet pleasing admiration. Here, still, seems to reign the grandeur of ancient days, undisturbed by the changes, and fluctuations of succeeding ages. The stranger, Without the aid of much enthusiasm, may here fancy himself, sud- denly transported from the scenes and events of present times, and carried back to years of old, and scenes long past. The age of chivaliy, with all its astonishing feats, and marvellous adventures, will here forcibly recur to his recollection ; and may, for a moment, almost cheat his belief. " Even the legends of the Champion Guy," it has been remarked, " lose their fabulous appearance, on " a spot, where all the surrounding objects so admirably *' correspond, with the wonderful exploits of ancient " Knight Erranti-y." Entering the inner court on the left of a spacious area, appears a grand irregular castellated Mansion, a residence fit, as even the high-wrought imagination could desire, for the powerful, the splendid, and the hospitable Baron of ancient times. It is a vast pile, of great strength ; and its venerable antiquity is not injured, by the alterations or repairs which modern taste has suggested, or progressive time has rendered necessary. On the left side, also, is Caesar's Tower, whose irregularity of form is here strikingly seen. In front, is the high mound of earth anciently the keep most beautifully clothed from its base, to its summit, with trees and plants, through which towers and battlements, at interv'als, are seen producing the finest eifect still further heightened, by the light unexpectedly breaking through the iron grating of a Gothic Gate-Way, which occupies, nearly the central and ^e highest point. Thence the embattled wall is continued. THE CASTLE. 169 Inner Court. to the right, overhung with aged ivy ; and occasionally hidden from view, by the interposing shade of trees. In this part, just rising to the sight, appear two unfinished towers, one of which is the Bear Tower, begun by Richard III. and the whole range is grandly terminated, towards the right, by the gigantic tower of Guy. Such is a feeble attempt to trace the outlines of a scene of which, so perfect is the fascination, that it would be difficult to say, what might be added, that could improve, or what might be taken away, that would not injure, the effect of the whole. After having sufficiently contemplated the views of solemn magnificence, which present themselves without the Castle the stranger may next prepare to enter within : and we shall now proceed to give some account of the rich and varied entertainment, which he may there expect. -?^ Y 170 STATE ROOMS Porch Great Halt. CHAP. XX. >tate ]Soom^ of t(|e a^t\t. Hall Vieus from its Windows large. Picture of Charles I. on Horseback^ Great Dining Room Portrait of the first Lord Brooke and of the Father and Mother of George III. AMi-RnoM Portraits of Cu' tharinc ofArragon, by L. Da Vinci of a Lady and her Son, by Vandyck a Pieta by L. Caracci Flight of Joseph tuo Landscapes, by Salvator Rosa-^ two Landscapes, by G. Poussin Ceuar Drawing Room Portrait oj F. II . Montague, by Romney Portraits of the (Countess of Carlisle Charles L Duke of Alva Marquis of Montrose Martin Ryckheart, all by Vandyck Muse of Painting, by Patoun and Circe, by Guido. A N elegant Gothic Porch, by a flight of stone steps, leads into the interior apartments of the Castle ; of which, the first is the Great Hall whence we shall conduct the stranger through the grand suite of rooms, which ar usually thrown open to public inspection. HALL. This is a noble room, admirably adapted to the scenes of splendid and princely hospitality, which marked and dignified the ancient feudal times measuring in length 6*2 feet, in breadth 36, in height 25. It is wainscotted with oak, painted: and the ceiling is oniamented in plaster. Suspended over the fire-place, are the horns of OF THE CASTLE. 171 M I I I I I m^ Antlers of the Moose Deer Prospect from the Windows. the rein-deer ; and hung up, on three sides of the room, are the antlers of the moose-deer. Those over the east door, were brought from America; and those over the Avest door, were dug up, on the e.state of Lord Hilsborough, in Ireland. These latter are of large size, though con- siderably inferior in magnitude, to the prodigious pair of antlers, opposite the fire-place ; which were a present from Lord Mulcaster, and were brought also from Ireland. As the moose-deer has not been found in that country, so far back as any remaining histoiy extends ; it must be supposed that these antlers have lain many centuries buried in the bogs. Round the Hall, are hung also, va- rious pieces of ancient British Armour ; and, over the western door, is a large gun, taken from a Spanish ship, by Lord A. Hamilton, grandfather, by the female side^ of the present Earl of Warwick. In deep recesses, are the three large Gothic win- dows of the Hall and, amongst the numerous attractions of the Castle, not one of the least is, the delightful and extensive prospect, commanding a rich and pleasing variety of objects, which opens from these, and from all the windows of the whole southern range. Below, at the distance of 109 feet, flows the Avon, here of noble breadth ; falling, with soothing murmur, down a gentle cascade, and washing the foundations of the rock. On the left, are seen the mined arches of the Old Bridge, wildly overgrown with slinibs and plants ; whilst, at greater distance, rising, in strong contrast, with all its modern elegance, appears the noble single arch of the New Bridge; enlivened by the moving figures, usually seen passing over it. Farther still to the left, the eye ranges over a somewhat confined, but pleasing landscape Y 2 173 STATE ROOMS Vie7f of the xchole range of State Jpartnients. formed by the winding Avorij and the fertile meads, through which it takes its way terminated by a good object, in Myton House. Directly in front the river, dividing into two branches, is seen, encircling a small isle, thickly covered with a fine plantation. Thence, pursuing its meandering course, to the right, it flows, for the space of two miles, appearing and disappearing at intervals, through the w^idely-extended and highly-cultivated park, which is every where animated by browsing cattle and sheep ; and every where embellished with lofty and spread- ing trees sometimes, scattered singly about sometimes, grouped into clusters and, at length, united in mass, forming the vast and noble sweep of woods, which bound the whole. In the midst of these woods, towers into view, the keeper's lodge ; and beyond them, appears a vast expanse of counti*y, shut in by the distant hills of IVor- cestershire and Gloucestershire. Standing in the Great Hall a view is obtained, at a single glance, through the open doors, of the whole range of state rooms, on one side, and of domestic apart- ments on the other forming a noble vista, extending from one end of the Castle to the other and measuring more than 300 feet terminated at each extremity, by beautiful windows ; one of painted glass, before which is seen a large bust, from an ancient Statue of Hercules. This latter is now in the British Museum, to which it was given, by Sir Wm. Hamilton ; and much resembles the famous Statue of the same hero, in the Furnese Palace, at Rome, the work of Glycon. FROiM the same room, looking down the long arched passage, which leads into the Chapel, at the end. OF THE CASTLE. 173 Portrait oj Charles I. on Horseback Great Dining Room. appears a fine picture of Charles I. by Vandyck. The King is dressed in armour ; mounted on a grey horse, of which the head is beautiful ; and attended by his Equerry, Monsieur St. Antoine, holding his helmet erroneously supposed, by some, to be the Duke d'Espernon. The head of the latter is fine : that of the King is not an original. This is a noble painting ; and at that distance, the figures nearly resemble life. It was given by Prince Charles, of Lorrain, to Lord Waldgrave ; and was never out of the possession of that family, until purchased hy the present Earl of fVarwich. Sir J. Reynolds is said to have offered 500 guineas for it. great dining room. This apartment was built by the late Earl of Warwick ; but the form of the Avindows, and the whole air of the room, preserve great consistency with the venerable antiquity of the pile, to which it belongs. In this room, is a large table, formed of various antique marbles, curious and beautiful. Here are, also, two large marble vases of elegant Etruscan shape ; and a delft blue vase, all worthy of attention. Over the mantle-piece Portrait of Sir Fulke GREViLLEj^r^/ Lord Brooke. Thougli he loved to be de- signated, the friend of Sir Philip Sidney, Sir Fulke had, in himself, strong claims to high estimation. He was a virtuous man, an accomplished nobleman, an upright states- man, a writer of merit, and a patron of learning. He died by the hands of an enraged domestic, as already re- 174 STATE ROOMS rortruit of Fulke Lord Brooke Prince and Pnnress of Wa/es. lated.* This fine painting is the production of William Patoi'N ; who, though he had received no previous in- struction, yet, by the force of his own native genius alone, attained to uncommon excellence in his art. He was educated for the profession of a physician, though he aftenvards declined the practice. He was tutor teU:he present Earl of IVarwich. On the two opposite sides of the room are Portraits of Frederick Prince of Wales, and Augusta, his Princess. In the arms of the Princess is a female infant, probably the late Dutchess of Brunswick. The former of these pictures is by Richardson, and the latter by Philips. They are not much to be admired ; the figures are stiff and formal. They were a present from Lord Archibald Hamilton, to the late Earl. Tlie frames, adorned with trophies and other emblems, are very superb. ANTI-ROOM. This room is furnished with beautiful chairs, worked by the Ladies of the present noble family. It contains the following paintings, besides other objects of curiosity. See page 40. Tlie following high and just compliment was paid to this noble- man, who was then Chancellor of the Exchequer, b3' IJisliop Cotbelt, in his Iter Boreale so often quoted before, Descr;bing his desctnt from the summit of the hill, on which ilie. ICorih Tower stands, lie thus coniinurs: As we descend, the lord of all this frame. The honoiable Chancellonr, lowardb us came. Above the hiU, there blew a genlle breath. Yet now we ft-cl a gentler gale bencoili. The praise and wcllcome of this Knight did make. The scat more elegant ; every word he spake Was wine and music, which he did expose To us, if all our art cuuld censure those. OF THE CASTLE. 175 Anti Room Portrait of Queen Catharine. Over the fire-place Portrait of Catharine of Arragon bt/ L. Da Finci. The first wife of Henry VHI. greatly distinguished by all the gentle and amiable \'irtues, which become and adorn the female charac- ter, and not destitute of the lofty spirit of a Prin- cess though unable to obtain, or long to secure, the affections of a capricious husband. This is a valuable painting, by Lionardo da Vinci, so highly celebrated as a painter of very enlarged genius and solid judgment. But though his designs are always coiTect, and his ex- pression natural and powerful, yet is colouring is not considered as agreeable, from the excess of violent tints, which appears in all his pictures. On the right side A Pieta, or Dead Christ hj Lewis Caracci ^who particularly excelled in re- ligious subjects ; and whose composition is considered as always pleasing, and sometimes sublime. On the left side Flight of Joseph into Egypt. in the manner of Rubens. Opposite the fire-place whole length A Lady and her Son Fandyck. The face and draperv very fine. The works of Vandyck form the largest part of the prosenr fine collection. He excelled in history, but most of all in portrait.* In this latter, he always gave an inexpressible grace to his heads ; shewed great variety in the airs ; and in some, the character is even sublime. The extre- mities of figures, especially the hands, are true, graceful, lliemanut Geiiiuj who *aii draw fioiu liis itnagiiiati'jii some noble cliaracter a lier.> a (airiarcii or a saini culliyaus ceripinlj m more sublime art, than fie wlio cin (ravT t'lgcllitr a compoition oiiJv ol" '.tecs and mounliiiiB. Gilvin'i Dicl^giet, p. s^l. 176 STATE ROOMS U' ' . ^^ Lttndscapes hy S. liosa Ditto by Caspar Puuisin. and exact : the draperies are cast in a grand style, and the colouring is truly excellent. On each side are two Landscapes one, rock, trees, and banditti in the other is the horrible represen- tation of a crucifixion, while rock and stunted trees and dreary desolation fonii the surrounding sceneiy bj/ Salvator Rosa a painter as every one knows, of* the very highest rank. He composed all his subjects in a grand style, and his designs were singularly cor- rect. He delights in ideas of solitude, desolation, and danger, in alpine ridges, in impenetrable forests, in rocky or storm-lashed shores, in trees blasted by lightning, and suns shorn of their beams. His figures usually are wan- dering shepherds, forlorn travellers, wretched mariners, and banditti lurking for their prey, or dividing their spoils. His works are exceedingly rare and valuable. Be- tween these, on a small cabinet, stand two vessels of bronze, called proefericula, because carried open before the priests, at their sacrifices : and on two other small cabinets, two vases of lava, with double handles. Opposite the window ^Two Landscapes rock, woods, and water in fine assemblage bi/ Gaspar Ponssin. ^This Painter was bom in France, and was undoubtedly one of the greatest painters of land>cape that ever appear- ed. His scenes are always beautifully chosen ; his distances recede from the eye with tnie perspective, his grounds are charmingly broken, and all his figures, trees, and other objects, arc always judiciously placed. Between these, stands a curious Cabinet, inlaid with brass, containing some fine specimens of delft-ware. Upon it, is a fine Nola Vase, painted. OF THE CASTLE. 177 Bust of Minerva Cednr Drutoing'Room. In the two corners, near the windows, are a Foung Triton and his Companion, standing upon superb pedestals. Between them, is a table of the curious pietra commessa, or mixed stone work ^the slab being a sort of marble, inlaid with precious stones, among which the fine blae lapis lazuli is very conspicuous, forming, through the whole, beautiful flowers. On this table, is placed, a fine marble bust, done from the Justiniani Minerva, at Rome. Over the west door, is a Bust of Lord Nelson, in bronze. Cedar Drawing-Room . This is a large and handsome apartment, measur- ing 47 feet by 25. The ceiling is formed in plaster, with much elegance. The mirrors are splendid, and the rest of the furniture antique and curious. The marble, in the central part of the chimney-piece, is extremely beautiful of a kind unknown ; and is said to be the only speci- men in England. It is supposed, however, by some, to be Brocadillo di Spagno. The marble table, opposite the fire-place, is inlaid with lava of Vesuvius ; and those, at each end of the room, are of Egyptian marble, called by some, the black antique, of which, the quarries are unknown. Below these last, are placed two very curious china cisterns, having the htus plant, beautifully painted, within : Standing on pedestals and small cabinets, in this room, are several Etruscan vases, in pairs and single, some of precious value. The paintings are as follows : Over the mantle-piece Portrait of Edward Wortley Montague an Englishman, in a Turkish dress, z 178 STATE ROOMS Portrait qf Edward Wort/ey Montainte. ly Romney. He was a character of tlie strangest ec- centricity. When a boy at H'estmhister school, he eloped, and was found in the disguise of a chimney sweeper. Afterwards, he became a fisher-boy; then a cabin-boy ; and, finally, a mnle driver, in Spain. Being discovered in this last situation, he was restored to his friends. Afterwards, he attended, with some advantage, the instructions of a private tiitor ; then, he served as a member in two successive Parliaments, and be- haved for a time with suitable dignity. But, at length, the rambling fit returned ; and he travelled through Italy, Spain, and finally, through European and Asiatic Tiirhey ; where he adopted the dress and the manners of the Turks. In a frolic, he married a washerwoman, and then refused to cohabit with her. After her death, to j)re- vCnt the estate from devolving to the children of Lady Bute, his sister, he advertised for a decent young woman, in ii state qf pregnancy, as a wife.* His oiler was accepted ; but the marriage was prevented by his death, 177^' ^The original of this fine picture was painted at f^enice : and so attentively and successfully had the artist studied the A^enetian colourists, that this might be easily mistaken for one of the best productions of that celebrated school. It was his own favorite work : and was long retained in his study, for his own use. He afterwards permitted a small print to be taken from it, as a decoration to Seward's Anecdotes of distinguished Persons : and, some time before his death, presented the original itself to a friend. The present copy, taken by Romney himself, in no respect in- ferior to the original, says Mr. Nichols, *' with other " ex(|nisite portraits, by the same Master, is ranked among >iicl>tjlj' llisior^ ol' I.eiecsterihire, OF THE CASTLE. 179 Portrait of the Countess of darlisle Vharfes I. Dnke of .Alva. '^ the choicest modern ornaments of that magnificent and " interesting old mansion, IVarwick Castle.'^ Opposite the fire-place centre-piece a whole- length of Lucy, Countess of Carlisle bi/ F^andyck. She was the daughter of Percy, Earl of Northumber- land^ and wife of Hay, Earl of Carlisle. She is de- scribed as a great wit, a busy politician, and a puritanical saint, and is said to have been the mistress first of Straf- ford, and afterwards of Pym.* Next to Lady Dorothea Sidney, celebrated under the name of Sacharissa, the Countess of Carlisle stands distinguished, in the A^erses of Waller ; and appears there, indeed, to more advantage, than in the portraits of Vandyck. " This great painter," says Walpole, " has left us to wonder, that the famous " Countess of Carlisle could be thought so charming." It was not, hov/ever, as Granger remarks, so much for her beauty, that she became the object of general admi- ration, as for her sprightly wit and fascinating manners. Opposite the fire-place right side Charles L bi/ Vandyck. This picture is said to have been once in the possession of Charles himself. The King has all that melancholy grace, which Vandyck alone, of all his paint- ers, knew how to give him. J He was not the worst, but the most unfortunate of Kings. Near the door Don Ferdinand De Toledo, Duke OF Alva by Vandyck.^ He was an able and valiant Warwick's Memoirs, page 20 4. % Horace Walpole. If this portrait was painted by Vandyck, it cannot be an original, at tilts Duke f Alva died 19 years before Vandyck was born. Z 2 180 STATJE [ROOMS Portrait of Prince Rupert Marquis of Montrose. general, high in the favor of Charles V. and Philip II. but " damned to eternal fame," says Granger, for his cruehies in the Low Countries, which then meditated a revoh from the Spanish yoke. Here, he is said to have boasted that, within a few years, he dispatched, by the hands of the common executioner, 3,6oo souls. Left side James Graham, Margiuis of Mon- trose hy Vandyck " the radiant eye proclaims the va- liant chief." This great hero of his age, was no less distinguished, by his accomplishments as a scholar, his high-bom greatness of soul as a noble, his ardent and generous feelings of humanity as a man, than by his consummate skill, and dauntless courage, as a general. Involved in the fortunes of the Stuarts, to whom he faithfully adhered, he was treacherously betrayed, and carried to Edinburgh ; where he was executed, with every possible mark of indignity, on a gibbet 30 feet high, l650. Even his book, written in elegant Latin, containing an account of his own life, was ignominiously tied about his neck, by the hands of the executioner. But he bore all his wrongs, with unconquerable greatness of mind with a dignified and disdainful superiority to all that the rage and malice of his foes could inflict. '* During these turbulent times, many instances of active valour occur," says Gran- ger, " but Montrose is the only instance of heroism !"* ^This fine painting, an undoubted original, was formerly in the possession of Lord Newhaven. See the charncter of this Nobleraan, fairly and strikingly delineated in Clarendon't History of the Rebellion, v. iii. page 5j6. " Let a man," say* Richardou, " read a cliarac- ter in my Lotd Clarendon, and he will find it improved, by seeing a picture of the same person by Vandyck." OF THE CASTLE. isi Portrait of Myckaert Mtise of Paintins, Circe. Near the door Martin Ryckaert by Vandych. RyckaerTj a native of Antwerp, was eminent a apainter of landscape ; and stood high in the estimation of Vandyck ; and other distinguished men of the same profession. He was born with only the left arm, and died l636^ Over the east door is The Muse of Painting extremely delicate hy W. Patoun. Over the west door Circe hy Guido with her magic wand and enchanted cup neither of which, says Mr. Warner,^ "would this enchantress have needed, had she '' possessed such a pair of eyes, as the painter has given her." ^This is, indeed, a very fine picture by that astonish- ing artist, in whose superior genius, the various excel- lencies of painting seem to be united. All subjects, however, were not equally adapted to him. The tender, the pathetic, the devout, in which he could manifest the sweetness and the delicacy of his thoughts, were those in which he excel- led. The heads of his figures are accounted not inferior to Raphael, either for correctness of design, or propriety and force of expression. His female forms, are exquisitely fine ; and the moving and persuasive beauty they possess, proceed not so much from the regularity of the features, as from the lovely turn of the mouth, and the enclianting softness and modesty of the eye. His draperies are al- ways disposed in grand style, and his colouring is astonishingly clear and pure. North. Tour, page ?4*. 182 STATE ROOMS (jilt Room. CHAP. XXI. Matt ItaomjEi o( t{|e ^>U. (continued.) Gii-t Room Portraits of Earl of Arundel Prince Rupert William, Prince of thunge a General Ruhens' first Wife a Lndi/ a Spanish General Earl of Lindsay n Nobleman Ignatius Lot/ola Charles I, Earl of Straj^ord Davilla Rich Earl' of Warziitck Prince Rupert Girl blowing bubbles Girl with a feather Machiavtl Murguis of Huntley Burgomaster Earl of Strafford Henrietta Maria Stat* Bf.O Room Bust of Edward the Black Prince Portraits of the Dut chest of FurmnA Lady Robert Earl of Essex State Dressing Room Boy aith a racket Portrait of the Duchess of Cleveland Sketch of the four Evangelists Two 1 andscapes by Salvator Rosa Portraits of the Dutchess of Bedford William, Eirst Duke of Bedford Francis, Secojid Earl of Bedford A Storm Portrait of Luther Boy in armour two Portraits of Charles' Beauties Henry IV. u Sorceress and Companion one of Lord B'ooke's children Triton Mrs. Digby two Heads a Sebastian Bacchanalians Inside of a Church a Guard Room a Boy an old Woman eating pottage Portraits of Catharine and Anne Bolevn Peter in Prison Peter delivered. J\l EXT beyond the Cedar Drawing-room, which takes its name from the wood with which it is beautifully wain- scotted, is another, called, from the manner in which its ceiling and its walls are finished, THE GILT ROOM. The ceiling of this room is splendid, and the chimney-piece very beautiful. On its mantle, are a large OF THE CASTLE. iss Fortran of the Karl of Arundel Prince Rupert. upright, two handled St. Agatha's Vase, two long eared Globular vases, with Isis' head, in terra cotta, and two tazzas, or drinking cups. The paintings are Over the mantle-piece centre Thomas How- ard, Earl of Arundel bi/ Rubens. To this Noble- man, the elegant arts are more indebted for encouragement than to any other of his time. He was the collector of the " Arandelian Marbles," presented by his grandson to the University of Oxford: amongst which is the celebrated " Parian Chronicle" This fine, picture glowing with all the warmth and animation of real life, is pronounced by Mr. Lawrence, painter to his Majest\', to be the best in the whole collection. Among the other paintings, in this room, there is one, however, which may well dispute the pre-eminence even with this. It is by the same great artist of whom, it is almost needless to say, that for magic of colouring, fertility of invention, and grandeur of com- position, he has ever been, as he ever will be, the object of high and universal admiration. He came into England, to negociate a peace between Philip IV. oj Spain, and Charles I. which w^as soon concluded. The King con- ferred on him the honour of Knighthood, and engaged him to paint the Banqueting house, at IP'hitehall. He excelled in almost every branch of his art, but his greatest excellence was in history or landscape. So hiiih is his fame as an artist, that the rest of his character is little attended to. But if he hud never handled a pencil, says Granger, his accomplishments as a gentleman, a scholar, and a statesman, would have set him far above tbe common level of mankind. He was born at Cologne, 15/7? ^xnd died at Antwerp, 16-40. 184 STATE ROOMS. Fortrait of the Prince of Orange a General Rubens' first Wife. Right side of the manfle-piece, above portrait of Prince Rupert. Painter unknown. On the same side of the maiitle-piece, below Wil- liam, Prince of Orange hy Holbein. This Prince Avas married before he was ] b, to Mary, daughter of Charles I. He was a man of courage and enterprise ; but sullied his character, by aiming at arbitrary power ; and shortened his life, by chagrin at the disappointment of his views. His posthumous son, William, pursued a nobler course : he first secured the liberties of his own country ; and then offered himself, the protector of their rights and liberties, to the English nation, over whom he afterwards reigned equally and highly distinguished, by the wis- dom, and the beneficence of his government, and by the splendour and glory of his military exploits. Left side of the mantle-piece, above Portrait of A General with his truncheon ly Vandyck On the same side of the mantle-piece, below Rubens' first Wife by himself. Though it was the second wife of this great painter who was, so highly cele- brated for her exquisite beauty; yet, there appears no vrant of those charms which " the looker s eyes allure"* even in his first. Left side of the window, above- Portrait of A Lady by Sir Peter Lely. His pencil^ was light and delicate ; the attitudes of his figures, gracehil, natural, and well-cliosen ; the heads of his portraits remarkably S[)fiiscr. S rilltingtoii. OF THE CASTLE. 185 Fortrait of the Earl of' Linihay. fine and elegantly turned. His draperies have an agree- able negligence, with broad folds ; and, in that, and other respects, his works are easily distinguishable fi-om those of all other artists. In his female portraits, there is a pe- culiarity of expression, a languishing air, and a look of sweetness, blended with drowsiness in the eye ; and as this expression is the same in all, he is considered as a mannerist. The ladies were always pleased to be drawn by his hand, as he kneAv how to bestow beauty, where nature had denied it. It is justly said of him, that " he painted many fine pictures, but few good portraits." He died 168O. RiGiiTsideof the window, above Robert Bertie, Earl of Lindsay hy Corn.Janssen. The Earl of Lind- say was an able and valiant Commander ; and, on the breaking out of the civil war, was appointed General of the King's forces. At the battle of Edge Hill, he was mor- tally wounded ; whence he was brought prisoner to this Castle; where he almost immediately expired l642. His son, in endeavouring to rescue his father, was also taken prisoner, and was long a captive in the same castle. Here he wrote a very spirited, and, in some parts, even eloquent defence* of his Royal Master ; to whom he was fervently devoted, during all the . misfortunes of his life : and to whom he paid the last melancholy offices, after his death, by attending his remains to St. Georges Chapel, Windsor; where they were interred, and where they were lately found. ^Tliis is the one of the two acknowledged portraits in the present collection, by C. Janssen, who was born at Amsterdam, and appointed portrait painter to James I. His style of colouring is clear and lively ; his touch light. * a copy of ihis curious Parapiilei, publislied in 1643, i uow iu tlie pi>sesion of V.'iHiain Staunton, Esq. of Longbtidge, A A is6 STATE ROOMS Portrait of a Nobleman Spiinisfi Genera/. and his pencil truly delicatr. He had not the freedom, iior the grace of Vandyck ; l)ut, in other respects, he is accounted his equal ; and, in the finishing of his pictures, liis superior. His paintings, which are usually on hoard, are easily distingtiished hy their smooth, clear, and deli- cate touch ; and hy that character of truth and nature, with which they are so strongly marked. Left side of the window below Portrait of A Spanish General hi/ Vandych. KiGHT side of the window below A Nobleman hif Vandyck. He is, however, su])posed hy some, to he Lord Darnley, consort of the Scottish Oueen, more distinguished by beauty of person, than by any intellectual or moral worth. He murdered IIeggio, i'avourite of the (^UEEN ; and was himself murdered, in revenge, 156*6. Opposite the fire-place centre piece Ignatius Loy6la whole length hy Huhens. This picture was painted originally for the Jesuits College, at Antwerp ; and brought thence to England, not many years ago. It is generally esteemed the finest painting in the Castle ; and is, indeed, by the acknowledgment of the most critical judges, superlatively excellent. The expression of the countenance is great ;* the eye is finely raised to a burst of light; the robes are superb; and the fore-shortening of the hand and foot is managed with exquisite skill; they stem to advance from the canvas. Ignatius, celebrated as the " Wlien has a Hi VNOi.DSor a West, been able m animate tlicir ''aints nitli (hat " inp Tnntiirsl cost of icnrures, with ibal :n^' i,f I'riKuetlieaii li^lil, wlilcli a Raphafi, and a Krr.Evf. Iiave borrowed troni Heaven itjelf, bercwiih lo ii'spire tlit-ra ?" M'llntr'i Antiquitiet of fi'tiichfstcr. OF THE CASTLE. is; Portrait of Ignatius Lni/oUi. founder of the order of the Jesuits, originally an officer in the Spanish army, was a rnan of small abilities, and slight attainments in literatvire. .Wounded at the siege of Pampeluna, and confined, in consequence, to his chamber, his mind was turned, for amusement, to reading : and, among the books that were brought to him on such trifling accidents do great events sometimes depend ! his attention was caught by " The Lives of the Sahits''' Instantly his ardent imagination was fired with the idea of distinguishing himself, in the service of God : and he re- solved to become a Knight of the Holy Virgin Asso- ciating with four or five other persons, some of whom were far more able and artful than himself the Order of the Jesuits WAS, founded the most extensive, the most power- ful ; in some respects, the mos^^ actively useful ; and in many respect?, the most f,itally mischievous, of all the religious fraternities. But, in time, its usefulness diminished; whilst the injuries, it inflicted on mankind, grew in number and enormity, and became at length insupportable. This or- der began 1540 ; and was finally suppressed, with the ap- })robatioa of the whole Christian World, by Clement XIH. 17/'3.* But whatever evils aftenvards proceeded from it, they were certainly not within the contemplation of its founder a weak, but honest enthusiast ; whose sin- cere and sole view was, what he conceived to be the glory of God, and the good of Man. He died at Rome, 1536*. The lines J in the book, held by Ignatius, may thus be given in English. " Whosoever, with a view to promote the glory of God, devotes himself to the service of Jesus Robertson's Cliarles V. % All fHajoram Dei Gioriani qiiicunque liuic Jesn Clirlsii niilitise nomen dedprint, die nocteque juccincii lumbos, et ad tain grniidis debili solutiouem, [:rooipti csie debt'iit. A A 2 188 STATE ROOMS f'oi trnit of the Km I of' t^orthuwbtr'.und--t'liarles I. Earl of Struffcrd, Christ, in this society, ought to gird up his loins, and to be constantly vigilant and active, in discharging the duties of an engagement, so greatly and solemnly im- portant.'* Opposite the fire-place left side, below Alger- KON Percy, Earl of Northumberland hy Vandych. This nobleman was, in 1637, advanced to the dignity of Lord High Admiral. He was lofty in his carriage, and elevated in his sentiments of liberty. He took, therefore, the side of the Parliament, in their opposition to the arbitrary measures of the misguided Charles. For this, he was deprived of his Commission ; which was bestowed upon Rich Earl of Warwick ; whose portrait is also in the same room. Opposite the fire-place left side, above Charles I. by Vandych. When one of Vandyck's portraits of this Prince was shewn to the famous sculp- tor, Bernini, he is said to have pronounced it, the most unfortunate physiognomy he ever saw ! Opposite the fire-place right side, above ^Tho- mas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford hy Vandych. Tliis Nobleman was one of the most distinguished persons of the age, in which he lived. At first, a bold and most able leader of the popular party, in the turbulent reign of Charles I. he afterwards openly deserted, and vehemently opposed it. It is impossible to acquit him from the charge, of promoting too much those arbitrary measures, which led to his own ruin ; and, in the end, to that of his Royal Master. But the sentence, which condemned him to die, against every principle of law and justice, stamps with OF THE CASTLE. I89 Portrait of D'lVilla Rick Earl of Warwick. deepest disgrace the character, both of the people, who demanded it, and of the Prince, who suffered it to be executed. He was beheaded on Tower Hill^ May 12, 1641, and bowed to all the cniel and unjust severities of his fate, with a firmness of mind, and dignity of manner, which have rarely been exceeded. Opposite the fire-place right side, below Henry Catharine Davilla bi^ Tintoretto. DAViLLAwas born in Cyprus ; but went early to France, where he served in the army, with credit. He afterwards settled at Venice \ where he received an honourable pension. He was killed by a pistol-shot, on a journey from Padua to Verona, 1634. He wrote, in Italian, " The History of the Civil " Wars in France^ including a period of 40 years, end- ing 1589- BoLiNGBROKE scHiples uot to place him in rank, as an historian, next to Livy. This is a good ])or- trait, by one of the f^rst masters of the Venetian School. His manner of painting is described as bold, with strong lights, opposed by deep shadows ; his pencil is wonderfully firm and free, his disposition good, his execution easy, his touch lively and spirited : and, in colouring, he ap- proached near to Titian. Yet his works are very un- equal ; so that it was said of him, " he appears sometimes " equal to Titian, and sometimes inferior to himself." Opposite the window left side of the door Robert Rich, Earl of Warwick whole length % Vandych. He was the second Earl of that family ; and was created Lord High Admiral of England, for whi.h he appeared not sufficiently qualified. He was handso..:3 in his person, and facetious in his conversation : reii.;'i{)us in his professions, but licentious in his morals. He died, 1608, 190 STATE ROOMS / fit rait ot Friiic) liyett drl Honing iiihlilr% Gin rrith a feather. Opposite the window, right side of the door Prince Rupert a fine whole-length hy f^andyck. He was the son of the Elector Palatine and Elizabeth, daughter of James I. When his Uncle, Charles I. raised the Royal Standard at Nottivgham, he came over, to support his cause. " As a military officer," says Gran- ger, " he M as rash, even to temerity : he seldom engaged, but he obtained the advantage, which he again lost, by pursuing it too lar." After he liad too precipitately sur- rendered Bristol to Fairfax, he retired in disgrace to the Continent. In the Court of Charles II. he was again received into favour : and was promoted to the com- mand of the British fleet. Here his impetuous valor was in its true element. He died 1693. Opposite the window, right corner, above A Girl blowing bubbles hy Murillo. This Spanish ar- tist greatly excelled as an historical Painter ; but his fa- vourite subjects were boys and girls, placed in various atti- tudes, and engaged in different amusements. These he usually designed after nature, and gave them a good and strong expression. He had an exquisite pencil ; his co- louring is mellow, and produces a suq^rising effect by the clearness of his tints, skilfully opposed by proper shadows; and there is a striking character of truth and nature, in all his paintings. The Spaniards boast that Murillo be- came a great painter without ever travelling out of Spain. Opposite the window, left corner, above A Girl with a feather hy Murillo. A companion to the former. Opposite the window, right corner, below Portrait of Machiavel hy Fandyck, A copy from Titian, paint- OF THE CASTLE. 191 Portrait of Machiuvel Marquis of Huntley Burgomaster Earl of Strafford. ed at Florence. Machiavel, a celebrated Florentine winter, united the liveliest wit, with the profoundest reflection ; and composed comedies, whilst he was writing a political liistory of his country. " He was," says Mr. Uoscoe, "an acute, but not a great man." This is considered as a very characteristic portrait ; the fire of the eye, and the sagacity of the countenance, mark, at once, boldness and depth of thought. Opposite the window left corner, below Mar- ftuis OF Huntley bi/ V^andyck, Over the centre door Portrait of A Burgo- Af aster Painter unknown. Over the east door is a second portrait of the Earl of Strafford hi/ Vandyck nearly opposite to the first. '' In his person" says Sir Philip Warwicke, of this Nobleman, whom he knew% " he w'as of tall stature, but stooped much in the neck. His countenance was cloudy, whilst he moved or sat, thinking : but when he .spoke, seriously, or facetiously, he had a lightsome and very pleasant ayre : and indeed, whatever he did, he did gracefully." Over the west door Henrietta Maria hy T^an- dyck. The countenance lively, tlie drapery very fine companion to the portrait of her consoit Charles I. in the same room. ^This beautiful and accomplished Princess was the daughter of Henry IV. of France, and inherited much of her father's noble and generous spirit ; by her many amiable qualities, both of person and di^^posiilon, she deserved, and she obtained, the tenderest affections of 192 STATE ROOMS Portrait of Henrietta Maria State Bed Room. ter Imsband : but her judgment was not entitled to all that deference, with which it was regarded by him. It w?is she, who advised or promoted, many of the rash and inconsiderate measures, adopted by that unfortunate Mo- narch, contraiy to his own natural and cautious prudence. *' And yet" says Granger, " whoever looks at her charm- ing portraits, will cease to wonder at even the excess of her influence over her husband's mind." In one of How- ell's Letters, who lived at the time, her person is thus described. " We have now a most noble new Queen of " England ; who, in true beauty, is much beyond the long ** wooed Infanta. This daughter of France^ this young- ** est branch of Bourbon, is of a more lovely and lasting *' complexion, a dark brown. She has eyes that sparkle " like stars : and, for her physiognomy, she may be said " to be a mirror of perfection." The last days of this unhajipy Princess were not only saddened with sorrow, but even distressed by pecuniar}^ necessities : and Histor)' weeps, when she records the fact, that the illustrious daughter of Henry the Great, and the Queen of Charles I. was reduced to the extremity of lying in bed, for want of fuel for a fire ! In the end, it appears, she was secretly married to Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Alhans ; who, however, treated her with neglect, and even with cruelty. She died in France 1669. state bed room. The bed and furniture of this room are of crimson velvet, embroidered with green and yellow silk. They bc'ongtd to Out en Anne : and were given, by the present King, to the l;:te Eat I of irarwkk. 'Ihe room is hung with taptstr} , \\ hich appears by the date of it, to have OF THE CASTLE. 193 Bust of Edward 'he HiacK Prince. been made at Brussels, l604. It is supposed to repre- sent the Gardens of P^ersailles, as they were at that time. -^The chimney-piece, executed by Westmacott, is re- markably handsome. It is formed of verd antique and white marble. Two black marble vcises stand on its man- .^ tie ; and a bronze copy of the JBorghese f^ase on the hearthv Here is a Cabinet highly curious, made of ebony, inlaid with wood of various shades and colours, beautifully representing flowers, birds, and various animals* On this Cabinet, stands a chrystal cup, mounted, between two en- graved chrystal vials. Behind, are a bronze lion and lioness. On another cabinet, opposite the window, is an essence vase, of the old enamel^ on copper mounted on or moulou, Here, also, placed on a table, in the window, is a bust, in white marble, of Edward the Black Prince that greatest of British heroes, whose pure and illustrious name, is fitted to adorn and dignify, not his own rude age only, but the most splendid period of ancient or modern his- tory.* The power of language is, indeed, unequal to the great and extraordinary merits, which raised him so tran- scendently high ; and diffused around him a blaze of glory never to be extinguished or obscured. Among the most perfect and the most exalted of human characters, which the pen of History has traced, that of Edward, the Black Prince, will ever be contemplated with proud de- light, mingled with almost awful veneration. ^The head 194 STATE ROOMS Portrait of the Dutchess of Parma Family Portrait. of this bust is exceedingly fine,|| bnt the chest is too much flattened. It is supposed to be the work of Weldon. The paintings in this room are the three following: Over the mantle-piece INIargaret, Dutchess of Parma hi/ Titian She was tlie natural daughter of the JS?7iperor Charles V. and was Regent of the A^etJierlands, in the reign of Phillip 1 1. This is a grand whole length, by the great master of colouring ; whose height of excel- lence, in this department of the art, few have approached, and none have reached. He is the father of portrait-paint- ing ; and knew how to give resemblance with form, character with dignity, grace with sim})licity, and costume with taste. In general, however, his male portraits are not designed so correctly or elegantly, as those of his females : yet his colouring has ever the look of real life, and his figures breathe. " Above all others," says Gilpin, J " Titian's art ** of realising life excites our admiration. How often have " I stood gazing at his portraits of celebrated personaaes, " till I have seen them move, and heard them speak." This illustrious artist was born in Friuli, a Venetian pro- vince ; studied first at f^enice, afterwards at Rome ; and closed a long life of splendid reputation and uninterrupted health, at the uncommon age of 96. Over the east door A Family Portrait />?/ Sir Peter Lely. That tender languishmenf, before* noticed, as his peculiar manner of expression, is here very apparent. (1 III Uie family of Lord Onslow, is a head of ilie i?/acfc Prince, which ilierc ;i 16'' OF THE CASTLE. 207 Portrait of Oliver Cromwell ofShaheapeure of a Mohawh Chief. On the same side as the window Oliver Crom- well in armour Ji/ Robert Walker* whom the Pro- tector himself preferred to every other painter and by whom his portrait was certainly drawn several times. It is well known that the Grand Dahe of Tuscany gave ^500, to a relation of Cromwell's, for one of his pictures by JValker. This is now in the gallery of the Old Palace at Florence where there is also a celebrated cast of his face, of which, Lord Cork, who had seen it, remarks^ that *' it bears the strongest characteristics of boldness, steadi- ness, sense, penetration and pride." " Cromwell has al- ways been regarded by foreigners," says Granger, " and ** of late years, by the generality of his countrymen, as the *' greatest man this nation ever produced. Yet it has *^ been disputed whether he deseiTed more a halter or a *'^ crown ? and there is no less disparity between the cha- " racter drawn of him by his friends and his enemies. " Colonel Lindsay affirmed that he saw him enter into a " formal contract with the devil ; and Dawbeny has " drawn a parallel betwixt Moses the Man of God, and " Oliver, the Protector. He died in his bed, on the 3d of " September, a day which he had long esteemed fortunate, in the year l658." Portrait of Shakespeare in a sitting posture- composing. Portrait of Buakdt, the Mohawk Chief hy Romney in the best style of that master " whose paint- * A duplicate of tliis picture is in the possession of a brother of the writer ol liiese pages, whose mother's grandfather, Mu/or Cromwell, was second son of Ht.sRy Cromweli , the Lerd Lieutenant (f htland, and was bonk in Duhlin Cmtle, at the ti)"- "i iii-iather'> r*.-sidente iu ^hal couutrjf. 208 STATE ROOxMS I'orttdit of Rubens' second Wife of a General by Rubens of Locke. *' ings are conceived,'* says Flaxman, " in an elevated " spirit of dignity and beauty, with a lively expression of " nature in all its parts. His heads were various ; his " male was decided and grand ; his females, lovely ; his " figures resemble the antique ; the limbs were elegant, and " finely formed ; and his draperies were well understood ; " and constituted, indeed, one of his chief excellencies.'* Side opposite the Window^ Head in the man- ner of Rubens. Rubens* second Wife % himself'. ^This is the lady so celebrated for her exquisite beauty ; the contem- plation of which is said to have been of important use to the great painter, in delineating the figures of his females. Portrait of a Bishop. Portrait of a Lady hy Vandych. Portrait of a General hy Rubens. Portrait of Thomas Thynne, Esa. noted for his affluence and his uncommon benevolence,whence he gained the name of " Tom of Ten Thousand'" He w^as murdered in his coach, soon after his marriage to hady Eliz. Piercy, by three assassins, supposed to be hired ])y Count Konings- marJxj who had made some advances to the same Lady. Portrait of Locke " who was in metaphysics what Newton was in the higher mathematics and as the one led mankind to the knowlediie of the material world, by which they are suiTounded ; so the other conducted them to the knowledge of the ideal world within themselves. OF THE CASTLE. 209 The Chapel. ' I ill 1 1 I II I I 1 1 II THE CHAPEL. Through tlie long passage, just mentioned, is the approach, by which strangers are usually conducted to the Chapel. From this, a small door leads into the interior. But the principal entrance is opposite to this ; where, folding doors open into a vestibule with which a flight of stone steps communicate, from the inner court of the Castle. The Chapel is of suitable size, well proportioned, and fitted up in a style of simple elegance. In the outer division, are the seats fdr the servants ; and in the inner, those for the family. The lofty ceiling is finely formed with small pendant capitah, and adorned with the arms of the family. The altar-piece is of oak, carved and surmounted with a canopy^ extending from it over the two adjoining seats. Opposite, in a gallery, is placed the or- gan. The Gothic windows are filled with painted glass ; of which that over the altar is the gift of the Earl of Es- sex. The light admitted is exactly of that kind, which the great poet of England so happily terms " dim religious light ;" and, through the whole interior of this beautiful oratory, an air of soft and composed solemnity prevails usually considered as so highly favourable to the exercises, and to all the serious sentiments, of 'devotion. D D 210 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Private Apartments, CHAP. XXII. 3^ntate SOpattmentje? of tl^e Cattle. (not open to public inspection.) Breakfast Room.- Family of Charles I. Portraits of a Warrior Wife of Snyder Two Ltons, by Kubens Portrait of Spinola Gondomar Cap- tain of the Dutch Guards. Waiting Room. Portrait of Old Parr Second Lord Brooke. Little Study. Portrait 0/ Henrietta Maria. Library. Portrait of a School Boy. Red Bedchamber. Duke of Buckingham and his Brother Prince Rupert and Maurice Fruit, by M. Angelo A Nun. Red Dressing Room. View of the Interior of a. Church Venice A Sea Piece. Passage A Landscape A Study A Sea Fight Charles L Shakespeare. Henry Vlll. Queen Elizabeth'^ Mary Queen of Scots Sir Philip Sidney. Domestic Offices, &c. J_-iEAVING the State Rooms of the Castle, and eu- tering the Private Apartments, the air of grandeur, which strikes so much in the former, is at once exchanged for that of domestic convenience and comfort, which mark the whole appearance of the latter exciting in the mind, instead of ideas of pomp and splendour, of crouded courts and hrilliant assemblies, the more pleasing thoughts of quiet enjoyment, and the delights of family or friendly inter- course. These latter apartments, however, in the absence of every other beauty or ornament, would still be con- sidered as highly embellished, by the many^we/?am/ew^* which adorn them ; of which we are permitted to give some account ^though we must again repeat, to prevent all danger of disappointment, they are not exhibited to the view of the public. OF THE CASTLE. 211 Breakfast Room Famiti/ of Charles I. 'Portrait of' a Warrior. BREAKFAST ROOM. This is a good family room, delightfiilly pleasant, as, indeed, are all the rooms, looking to the south, from the beautiful and extensive prospect, which the windows afford. Here is to be seen a slab, one of the largest and finest of the kind known, formed of pietra dura, next in hardness, and also in value, to the precious stones. The pedestal is of the same material as the slab ; and, the whole must have been a work of im- mense labor. This table was once in the possession of the King of Naples, who gave for it 3,000 sequins, or about ^1,500. In this apartment are the following paintings : Over the mantle-piece ^The Family of Charles I. hy Vandyck. ^The portraits are whole-lengths, taken in their infancy, of Charles II., of James II., and of Mary, Princess of Orange. Right side of the mantle-piece, Portrait of a Warrior, by Rembrandt. ^This admirable picture, once in the possession of Sir Joshua Reynolds, is generally supposed to represent Achilles ; but the armour is mo- dern. Rembrandt, one of the most famous masters of the Dutch School, formed a manner entirely his own, by studying and imitating nature, which he copied in its most simple dress ; but, in the selection of objects, he shewed that he had little notion of grace or elegance. His invention, however, was fertile , his imagination lively and active ; and his colouring most surprising. His car- nations are as true, as fresh, and as perfect as those of Titian : but there is this diiference, that tbe colouring DD 2 912 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Portrait q/' Sni/der's Wife Tzvo Lions, by Rubens. of Titian will admit of near inspection, whilst that of Rembrandt must he viewed at a convenient distance. His portraits are excellent ; but from the subjects he usually painted, though they are exact likenesses, anci have the true look of life, yet, in the air and attitude, grace and dignity are wanting. He died 1764. Left side of the mantle-piece, The Wife of Snyder, bt/ Fandyck. ^This is a fine picture, in the best style of that great master. Snyder was a distin- guished painter of the Flemish School ; and was held in such high estimation by Rubens, and by Jordaens, that they often borrowed his assistance in some of their great- est works ; and as often afforded their's in return, to him. The joint productions of three such celebrated p^iinters are considered, by some, as more estimable, on that very account, than even their separate works. Opp#site the fire-place, centre-piece, Tv/o Lions, by Ruhens, painted from the life, and said to be the onlv^ ones he ever saw alive. When the great painter had proceeded some way, in portraying these noble ani- mals, it is said, he wished to mark their appearance in the act of roaring ; and, for that purj^ose, the keeper ven- tured to pluck one of them by the whiskers. The attempt succeeded for several days ; but, on the fifth day, Ruhevs observed such signs of anger as created serious alarm, and induced him to advise the keeper to desist from the dan- gerous attempt in future. The hint was o])served for a time, but was afterwards forgotten ; and the dread- ful conse(jiicnce was, tlie enraged animal tinck down the keeper, and lay upon him, the whole day. In the evening, the lion was ordered to be shot, by a party of the Guards, . OF THE CASTLE. 213 Fo?- trait of Spinola, In/ lixbcns. under the command of an ancestor of Mr. De Corte, a painter of eminence, lately deceased, on whose authority, this story is told. The lion was killed ; hut, in the agonies of his death, horrid to relate ! the wretched keeper was torn to pieces. This nohle production of one of the greatest of painters, who excelled pre-eminently in the delineation of heasts, especially those of the savage kind, was once in the possession of Prince Charles, of Lorraine. Opposite the fire-place ^left side^ MARauis of Spinola hi/ Ruhens. Spinola is here drawn in armour ; round his left arm is a sash ;. his sword-hasket is hiked ; and in his left hand is a truncheon. He was of an illustrious family, in Genoa, and one of the great military heroes of his age. Till his 30th year, he lived in the tranquil en- ' joyment of private life. But though he entered thus late into the army, yet he soon rose to high reputation ; and was, in l604, appointed commander-in-chief of the Spanish army, in the Low Country. Here he was opposed to Prince Maurice, of Nassau^ the first general of his time; against whom, it is high praise to say, that he contended with glory and success.* But afterwards, commanding iu Italy, at the siege of Casal, though he had actually taken the town ; and had closely invested the citadel ; yet his plans were suddenly interrupted, and finally defeated, by new and absurd orders from Spain. Vexation arising from -unexpected defeat, and from most unmerited disgrace, preved upon liis spirits ; and laid the foundation of a disease, which quickly ended in his death, l630. His last words were, "they have robbed me of my glory ! " * " Le Comte Maurice de Nassau, le lieros dc son siocle," s;iys ilie Frer.cii liiogra. pher, " lut I'licmiiuf, coatre lequel il eul i comballre ; et il se moiitia ausbi boii capitaiiic que lui." 214 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Portriiit of Gondomur and of a Dutch Cuptuin. Opposite the fire-place right side Count Gon- DOMAR hf Falasquez de Silva. Gondomar, Ambassador from Spain, to James I. was one of the most perfect adepts ever known, in the art of duping and deceiving. His great instmment to move all to his purpose, was, " to please all;** and never was an instrument wielded by the hand of man, with greater dexterity and success. He had his lures pre- pared for all fawning for the great flattery for the vain pleasure for the voluptuous money for the avaricious affected love of learning for the scholar and most humble and assiduous courtship for the ladies, whose influence, even in state affairs, he knew, must not be overlooked. No trick so low or little, to which he did not descend, in order to entrap the smiles of others, and cheat them of themselves. Thus, amongst other means of conciliating or cozening James I. " to M^hom," says Rushworth,* " he had access more like an English favorite, than a *' P'oreign Ambassador," one was, to talk bad Latin before him, in order to give that egregious pedant, the proud gratification of correcting it. " Never was there a man,'* says Grainger, " who had so much art, with so little ap- pearance of it." ^Tliis is the only painting to be found in this collection, by the great Spanish Master, Velascluez, whose compositions are remarkable for strength of ex- pression, for a fieedom of pencil, a spirited touch, and such a tone of colour, as almost equals nature. Opposite the window Captain of the Dutch Guard hi/ Rembrandt. This is considered as one of the finest pictures now known, of tliat great master Avhose genuine works are extremely rare ; and, when they are to be purchased, obtain almost incredible price. HiJtOiical Collections, r. I. p. 14. OF THE CASTLE. 215 Waiting Room Old Farr Lord Brooke. WAITING ROOM. From the Breakfast Parlour, a door opens into a ^mall apartment, called the JVaiting Room, in which are two portraits ; the first is Old Parr b;(/ Vandych. He was a peasant of Shropshire, born 1483, and died at the most extraordinary age of 152. In his 120th year, he married a second wife, and had a child. In the summer of l635, he was carried by the Earl of Arundel, to London, and introduced as a prodigy, to Charles I. Among other questions, the King asked him, " since he had lived so much longer than other men, what he had done more than other men ?" *' I did penance," replied the hardy veteran, " when I was a hundred years old."* Change of air, and new modes of living, the consequence of his removal to London, occasioned his death, Nov. 5, in the same year. He was buried in Westminster Abbey. He was blind for the last I9 years of his life. He is drawn three quar- ters length, in a doublet, with a girdle, in which is his left hand, and his right rests on a stick. The picture is of inferior execution, though painted by so great an artist as Vandyck, for so great a personage as the King of England. ^The other portrait is Robert, the second Lord Brooke Some ac- count has already been given of this high-spirited and accomplished Nobleman, who fell at the siege of Lick- field ; and who, in taking the side of the Parliament, against the misjudging Monarch, by the confession of his very enemies, acted from motives of purest patriotism. * Peck's Historical Pieces, p. 51. i P. 40. 216 PRIVATE APARTMENTS IJlf/e Studi/ Librurt/ Red Bedchamber. He id drawn, wearing a breast-plate ; and under it, appears the doublet, in which he was killed, and which may be seen, stained with blood, amongst the collection in the old British Armoury.* LITTLE STUDY. In this room is a portrait of Henrietta Maria wife of Charles I. whole length bi/ Vandych. LIBRARY. This is a spacious and handsome apartment. It contains about three thousand three hundred volumes ; and, if they are not to be characterized as a rare or invaluable, v they form, at least, a useful collection of books. Over the fire-place A School Boy by Sir Joshua Reynolds of whom it is said, that " to the gran- " deur, truth, and simplicity of Titian, and to the daring " strength of Rembrandt, he has united the chastness *' and delicacy of Vandyck." red bedchamber. In this room, which is nearly opposite the Librar)', are the following paintings. Over the fire-place George, Duke of Bucking- ham, AND HIS brother Francis whole lengths by VandycT^. These two young nobles, who are here por- trayed in their infancy, fell a sacrifice to their precipitate zeal in the cause of Charles I. At the head of a small * r. 205. OF THE CASTLE. 217 J-'urlruit of Frinces Rupert and Maurice Fntit. In/ M. Angela. body of troops, they were defeated, near Klngsfon-upon- Thames ; the elder was slain in battle ; the younger, dis- dainftilly refusing quarter, was cruelly butchered. Opposite the window Prince Rupert, and his BROTHER Maurice /;?/ Vandyck. These two princes, here drawn in the same picture, sons of the King of Bo- hemia, entered into the service of their uncle Charles I. when he raised his standard at Nottingham : and greatly signalized themselves, on many occasions, during the un- fortunate contest that followed. The former had more fire and activity, more daring and precipitate valour : the latter was equally brave, but more cool aiid steady. Opposite the window Fruit exquisitely done lif Michael Angelo Buonarotti the only specimen in this collection of the wonderful powers of " that truly divine artist," as Sir Joshua Reynolds, in his discourses tp the students of the Royal Academy, scruples not to call him " in whose steps, above all others," he declares, " he was ambitious to tread, however unequally and " whose name he desired to be the last words, pronounced *^ by himself in that Academy." And as he desired, so it was : for, unfortunately for the lovers of the fine arts, this was the last speech he delivered as President of the Royal Academy. Michael Angelo was highly distin- guished as a sculptor, as well as a painter ; and it is diffi- cult to decide in which he most excelled. It is certain, however, that sculpture was his primary pursuit ; and yet, if the question were, which of the sister arts would most suffer, by being deprived of his powers, tlie answer, says his biographer, would undoubtedly be, painting. In sculpture we possess the reli(|ues of the antique ; works E E 218 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Portrait of a A'm View of the Interior of a Church View ofVeuice. which more than rival his. But what is there in painting that could compensate for the loss of the Slst'me Chapel? The greatest works of this, extraordinary genius ard " The Crucifixion" and " The Last Judgment." He was born in Tuscany, 1474, and died at Rome, 1563. Opposite the fire-place Portrait of a Nun by Paul Veronese. ^This celebrated artist is acaised of paint- ing too much with a view to please the debauched eye of the Ftnetians, his countrymen ; and of sacrificing to that consideration, force of expression, correctness of drawing, and all propriety in the costume of his figures, and the architectural, and other ornaments of his pictures. But, in excellence of colouring, in the magic effect of light and shade, and in grace and harmony of composition, he has attained the highest distinction. RED DRESSING ROOM. Three large paintings adorn this small apartment. Over the fire-place View of the Interior of A Church by A. de Forme of which the perspective is good, and the light, which is that of wax tapers, is ex- cellently managed. Opposite the fire-place A View of Venice, with A Procession by Canalctto who was originally a scene painter, at Venice, his native city ; bnt afterwards studied with great success at Rome. He made use of the Camera Obsaira to obtain precision, and afterwards cor- rected its defects by the air tints. He produced great effects : and impressed a character of vigour on every object, he touched. Canaletto once resided at the OF THE CASTLE. 219 Sea Piece, by W. Vandervelde Landscape, by Salvaior Rosa Sea Fight. Castle, under the patronage of the late Earl of Warwick, who, amongst other Avorks, employed him in pain ling views of the Castle. Of these, four large pictures were highly finished by him, and were afterwards removed to London, to adorn the town residence of the Earls of Warwick. Opposite the window A Sea Piece by that unrivalled master in this branch of the art, William Van- dervelde, the younger. His father obtained high degrees of excellence, in the same department of painting, but was greatly surpassed by the son ; to whom, indeed, no painter in this style, of any age or country, since the revival of letters, can be regarded as superior, or even as equal. PASSAGE. In the passage leading to the apartments just enumerated, are several valuable paintings. On the stair-case A Landscape rock, cataracts, and trees in fine style by Salvator Rosa. Near the Dressing Room door A Study by the same great artist. It is the representation of a natu- ralist musing, with all the objects of his contemplation scattered about. Near the window A Sea Fight, between the Russians and the Turks moonlight by Loutherbourg. On the stair-case Charles I. sitting on a bay Horse. 2 220 PRIVATE APARTMENTS I'orhiiits of' S/inkcs/iear Henri/ VI JI Queen Kliznhcth. Portrait of Shakespear hy Cornelius Jansens The great poetical genius ^the pride of fVarwichshire and tlie glory of \\k country, " who first exhausted worlds, and then imagined nfew" is here drawn in a sitting pos- ture, composing ; the light finely hreaking in from the windows. Henry VIII. hy Holbein.* " This despotic mo- narch,** says Grainger, in his admirahle sketch of hi* character, " held the nation in greater subjection than any of its conquerors. He was more governed by vanity and caprice, than principle ; and paid no regard to mercy, nor even to justice, when it stood in the way of his passions. But, though a tyrant, by depressing the nobility, and in- creasing the property of the commons, he laid the foun- dation of civil liberty ; and, though a bigot to almost every error of the Romish Church, he was the father of th& Reformation." What a detestable idea of him is held forth by his own words, when, according to Sir Robert Naunton, he once said of himself, " he never spared mau in his anger, nor woman in his lust !" Queen Elizabeth dressed in stiff golden robes ; on her head, the crown, and in her hand, the globe and sceptre hy Holhein. " So happily tempered" says Grainger, *' was affability with haughtiness, and benevo- lence with severity, in the character of this Princess, that she was more loved than feared by the people ; and was It ij remarkable that Holdkin always pniiited with his left hand. TFie latnt iingulr habit is related of Turpii.ius, a Roman Artist, ai also of Mozzo, of Antnerjy, of Amico AsPEnriNo.aiid Lkdovico Cangiagio. $ Fiagmenla Regalia, {)uLlii!icd ill the r/iar?ur. r. I. p. 133. OF THE CASTLE. 221 " , - ^ Portraits of Mortj Queen of Scots Sir Philip Sidney. at the same time, the delight of her subjects, and the ter- ror of Europe.'^ Mary Queen or Scots, and James her Son hy Holbein. The infant here drawn, is of the age of three or four ; but it is well known that the Queen never saw her son, after he was a year old ; one of the portraits, therefore, cannot be original. There is another copy of the same picture in the Draper's Hall, London. Though virtuously disposed, this unhappy Princess has never been wholly cleared from the gcuilt of the crimes laid to her charge. But such were the graces of her person and manners, that every one who saw and conversed with her, was inclined to believe her innocent, at least to wish her so : and all concurred in pitying the severity of her fate. She was beheaded in the hall of FotJier- inghay Castle, February 8, 1586 : and her behaviour, at that awful crisis, was, in a supreme degree, calm, mag- jaaniraous, and pathetic. Sir Philip Sidney in a striped habit. This is with reason, believed to be an original of that highly and deservedly celebrated man, as it belonged to his fond and faithful friend, Fulke Lord Brooke. Sir Philip Sidney was the son of Sir Henry Sidney, Lord Deputy of Ireland, himself a man of pure and exalted character,* and of Mary, the tnily amiable and accomplished daugh- ter of John Dudley, the famous Duhe of Northumber- land. Gifted, by nature, with some of the best, and noblest qualities of the mind and the heart ; he received. ' This great man,'' sa^s Graincke, " deserves to be much beiicr kuown." 222 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Biogrup/iical Sketch t>f Sir FhiUp Sidney. from the cares of wise and affectionate parents, the ines- timable advantages of a learned, liberal, and virtuous education: and, for his further improvement, at the age of 18, he was sent to travel in foreign countries. None of all the precious advantages bestowed upon him by birth or education, was bestowed in vain ; he ardently soared, and rapidly rose, to a height of excellence, rarely exceed- ed, in intellectual and moral attainments ; and his various and powerful talents, his extensive and well digested learning, the elevated and generous sentiments glowing in his breast, the pure and virtuous principles animating his conduct, were graced with the fascinating charms of a fine person, recommended by every manly and martial accom- plishment, and by the most pleasing and polished manners. On his return home, after an absence of three years, all the excellencies of his noble and amiable character shone out, with resplendent lustre ; every eye Avas dazzled, every heart was attracted ; he soon became the ornament and delight of the English court and the English nation ; and, thence, his high reputation extended, and excited great and general admiration, in all the other courts and coun- tries of Europe. Every where the men of learning were proud to dedicate to him their works ; the poets delighted to celebrate his virtues and accomplishments ; princes condescended to repeat his praises, and to court his favor ; and so extraordinary was his fame, that, as Sir Robert Naunton* relates, he was even put in nomination, at the election of a King oj Poland. His royal mistress, Eliza- BKTii, however, opposed his advancement, " not from emulation" as Sir Robert expresses it, " but from fear " Fragraenta Regalia," publiihed in the Hatltian Miicellanj alio ia Jbe PhoEuix, V. I. p. 193. OF THE CASTLE. 223 Death of Sir Philip Sidney. of losing the jewel of her time." " He was, indeed," continues the same writer, who knew him personally, " a noble and matchless gentleman ; and it may be justly " said of him, as it was of Cato, of Utica, that he seemed *' borji only to that which he went about, versatilis ingenii."* But the splendid career of his virtuous and honourable life unhappily for his country, and the world! terminated October 17, 1586, at the early age of 32. As he was valiantly fighting on the side of the Dutch, against their Spanish oppressors, near Zutphen, * It would be endless to repeat all the high and honourable testimonies that have been borne, from the earliest to the latest times, by writers of every description and every country, to the great and amiable qualities of Sir. Philip Sidney of whom it iiaseveii been said that " he approaches more nearly lo the idea of a perfect man, is well as of a perfect Knight, than any character of any age or nation." Who, then, in the midst of this great and universal admiration, can witness, without disgust and disdiin, the strange, uiijiist, and most perverse attempt of the late Lord Orford, to bring down so fair and beautiful, and exalted a character from that height of eminence to which it has been ever raiiied, by the unanimous suffrages of all ages, and all nations! " When we," says iiii Lordship, " at this dibtaiice of time, enquire what were the prodigious merits which " excilfcd such admiration what do we find ? " Can it be credited that, to this question, tlio only reply is, " nothing but valour r " and that, too, ii is added, ' in an age of heroes," when, of course, valour was a cheap and common quality ! Surely ! surely ! no lordlj rank, nor literary celebrity, nor even good desert, in other respects, ought to shelter Irom evere and indignant reproach so sliameless a defrauder of the just praises of the iilu^trious dead ! and ihnugh himself no longer living, yet must so wrongful an attempt to injure the memory of oiie of the most exalted of human beings, recoil with deepest disgrace upon his own ! Ho\T most unfair too, is the same noble Writer, in estimating the literary merits of Sir Philip 1 Though his celeluated work " Tht Arcadia" will not bear to be tried by the rules ol modern ciiiicism, ^et ceriainly it deserves not the contempt poured upon it by his Lordship. It was long universally read and admired, and frequently imitated; nd, though tedious as a whole, yet, in many of its parts, it would highly gratify a modern reader, even of refined taste and judgiuent, But another performance, by many esteemed hii best, entitled " D^'feme of PoiUe," is passed entirely unnoticed by Lotto Ohford; i\lio, in a iuter edition of his works, excuses himself by the pitiful pi- a of having forgotten it ! \\\i iamous '' Letter to tht Queen," also, on the subject of her proposed marriage with the Duke of Anjou, is said, by Hv.me, Io be written " with unusual elegance of expres- sion, as wt!! as force of reasoniiig :" and his defence of his uncle, against a publication, called ' Leicester's CommouucZ//i," is acknowledged, by LoudOrpurd liimsclf, to be a spitiied Siid powerful perfoiojaoce. Bui enough for the compass of a note which, however, 224 PRIVATE APARTMENTS Domestic Offices. he was mortally wounded ; and it is of him that heautiful instance of humanity iss recorded, which has lately been made the subject of a fine picture, by the first historical painter of the age, the venerable Mr. West. Retiring from the field, overcome with thirst, from excessive bleed- ing, he called for water ; and, just as he was raising it to his lips, a poor soldier, at that moment carried alone-, desperately wounded, fixed upon it his eager and Ionising eyes ; instantly, the fainting hero withdrew the water from his own lips, and ordered it to be delivered to him, with these memorable words, " Thy necessity is yet greater than mine I" DOMESTIC OFFICES, &C. Under the principal range of apartments, is another, extending the whole length of the Castle, from east to west in which are the various domestic oflices. These are all formed out of the solid rock, supj)oited by lofty and beautiful arches, presenting in the whole, a most striking appearance : and though they may be considered, as under ground, with respect to the Court on the north side; yet, the windows, looking southward, are still 60 feet above the bed of the river. What a suite of magnificent apartments might here be formed ! As it is, however, they are well employed, as olhces for the various domestic purposes, necessary or useful, in this large and princely abode. must not ^et be closed, nii|iou( adding, that, since it uns penned, the wrier lias [lernsed, with inexprosihle delight, Dn Zouctis ' Memoirs of tiir T'ltilip Sidneij" in v.hith the liit;h pre ciiiiiience ol liiit cliaructer is elecantly and iDriiblv delineated ; iind a defence provided, more limn vulTiclciit to bid contemptuous defiance to nil ;iitatk, though a Ihuuiiand times less fiiinsy and less futile than thit of the niogropher ot the Nc/hle ajid Koyal Authors in which, indeed, the dariii(:tiess of ihe design, and the fteblciiess of the txecuiion, funu a niOkt rerattikable instance of striLing coiitrust ! OF THE CASTLE. 225 Servant's Hall Kitchen. At the eastern extremity, are the Housekeeper's rooms, opposite to which, are Servants' rooms, and the Butlers' pantry. Moving westward, appear the wine cellars succeeded by the spacious ale cellar and those for wood and coal. Beyond these, are the old Servants* hall and kitchen, together with large and convenient lar- ders; and, near the western extremity, is the present kitchen, of ample size, furnished with every convenience ; and surrounded by pantry, store-rooms, and some other small apartments. -?57l' F F 226 PLEASURE GROUNDS View J rem Gain's Tower. CHAP. XXIil. 3^Iea^ure <0tountii5f of tlje a0tlt. Tiew/rom Gut/'t Tower Dunge07i qfCasar's Tower the Green House Grand Antique Vase Walk through the Garden Plantations View on tht Jjxwn Hear View of the Castle the Pavilion the Hill House the Mount the North Tower the Porter's Lodge Guy's Armour Hide round the Park the Lake the Bridge the Park-Lodge. vJN leaving the intenor of the Castle, the Stranger usually ascends to the top of Chip's Tower. The ascent, though long, is not very difficult ; and the view from the summit will amply repay him the fatigue. Winding up the stone stairs, and passing five distinct stories, he will find himself on the battlements elevated above the level of the ground 130 feet, and above that of the river 150. From this eminence, a striking view is commanded, of all the streets and buildings of the town, on the one side ; and the whole extent of the park, stretching five miles in cir- cumference, on the other. In the distance, are seen the three spires of Coventry , one of them, next to Salishiiri/j the highest in the kingdom ; and, in the opposite direction, the Saxon Toiver in Lord Coventry's park, on the Broad- way Hill. The Shropshire Hills, and those of ShuMurgh Park, are also clearly to be seen ; as are, in the nearer tract, Kenilworth Castle, Grove Park, the seat of Lord Dormer, and a considerable number of village churches, in all directions. The romantic retreat of Guys Cliff is al- "' OF THE CASTLE. 227 Dungeon of Cresars Tower Green House. most concealed in the bosom of its own rocks and woods ; but Blacklow Hill, near it, crowned with its tufted ever- greens, is clearly to be discerned. From this tower, the look down through the open space, left by the hanging battlements, is truly tremendous. Into Ccesar*s Tower Strangers are not admitted. Some of the higher apartments are inhabited ; but under-r neath is a dungeon, deep, damp, and dark ; exhibiting a horrible specimen of a place of subterraneous imprison- ment. One small loop-hole admits its only light ; insuf- ficient for tracing the large letters and figures, still visible by the help of a candle on the wall. One of the more legible of these inscriptions records the confinement of a Royalist Soldier,* during the Civil War, who was here immured, a wretched captive, for the long space of three or four yeai'S. Descending from the summit of Guy's Tower, and re-entering the Inner Court on its northern side, r a portcullis opens, leading by an ivy-mantled bridge, beautifully picturesque, thrown over the deep moat into the broad gravelled walk of the Pleasure Grounds, Entering this walk, the thick shades, on the right, conceal the Stables of the Castle, and the buildings of the town ; but admit a good passing view of St, Nicholas* spire. Proceeding a few hundred yards, the Green-House appears, a spacious and handsome building, designed and finished by Eboral, an ingenious Architect of JVarwicli. * Master John Smyth, Goner to his Majesty's Highness, was a priianer in this place < in the year of our Lord I64l2, Ti, 4, 5. William Sidiate rot this aiae, and if my pen liad been better, for bis sake, I would have mended everie leuer." F F 2 228 PLEASURE GROUNDS Celebrated Antique Vase. It has a modern Gothic front of stone, plain and nn- adomed and, looking out over an extensive lawn, imme- diately before it, obtains a fine view of a wide bend of the river, with the rich woods rising beyond, and the Keeper's Lodge towering. above. This beautifiil Green-House was expressly built for the purpose of receiving the celebrated ANTiauE Vase, which is certainly one of the noblest specimens of ancient art at present remaining. It is formed of white marble ; and, in design and execution, is in the purest Grecian taste. It is of circular shape, and large size, capable of holding 163 gallons. It is placed on a square pedestal, within a semi-circular recess ; and is made to move round by means of a mortise and tenon. It has two large handles, exqui- sitely formed, by interwoven vine-branches, from which tendrils shoot, and most beautifully spread, with their large leaves and clustering grapes, round the whole upper margin. On the body itself, extending round its middle, appears the skin, with the head and claws of a panther, the well-knoAvn emblem of the God of Mirth and Wine ; and, immediately above, are some of the finest heads, which the Sculptor's art has ever produced representing those of his attending Satyrs : some with ivy-bound hair, and all with mirthful countenances, happily suited to the gaiety and good cheer, to which this magnificent bacchanalian vase was dedicated. Amongst its other ornaments are the tkijrsus, or vine-clad spear of Bacchus and the I'duus, or crooked staff of the augurs. The whole remains in a state of excellent preservation ; nor is any part the production of a modern hand, except the head of one of the Satyrs. It is to be regretted, however, that the white composition seems not to be quite cleared off^ with which the workmen OF THE CASTLE. 229 Plantation. covered it, who were employed by Lord Lonsdale, to take a model of it, with the view of casting another, intended to be of solid silver, gilt. This noble production of ancient art, as a Latin iniscription* partly informs, was found at the bottom of a lake, not far from Hadrians Villa, near Iwoli, about twelve or fourteen miles from Rome ; and was first pur- chased by the late Sir William Hamilton, then Ambas- sador at the Court of Naples. But the inscription fails to state, as truth and justice required, that it was afterwards re-purchased by the present Earl of fVarwich, and that, at his sole expence, it was conveyed to England. To him, therefore, the Lovers of the Fine Arts, in this kingdom, are indebted for the high gratification, which so grand a display of antique sculpture, in all its perfection, must afford.-^ Passing from the Green-House the walk, laid out by Brown, continues ^winding through the tasteful and beautiful plantation, formed of large and luxuriant trees and shrubs, uninjured by the edge of the axe, almost un- touched by the hand of art consisting of every various species, the oak, the beech, the elm, the fir, the larch, and particularly the cedar of Lebanon ; which is said to abound more, and to thrive more, in this than in any other plan- " Hoc pristiiiae artisRomanaj que magnificenlisB monumeiitura rufieribus villffl Tibar- tinae Hadriano Aug, in deliciis liabitse effossiim restilui curavit EquesGulielmos Hatnilton, a Georgio Tcrlio Magiias Britannise Rege ad Sicil. Regera Ferdinandura Quartum legatus ; t in palriain transniissuni Patrio Bonarum Ariium, genio dicavit An. Ac. N. 1774. t In Piranesi Vai et Candelabri are tbrec engraving* of tbis vase ; and in tbe Antiqu. ii Topograp. Cabinet, No. 2, is one, small but correct. An engraving of it is also to be setfi) in tbe Gentlemaii'c Magazine. 230 PLEASURE GROUNDS Aertr r>aJ on the Lann, Sfc. Pavilion I I ' ' " ' I 'I' tation in the kinsrdom. One of this last species, planted hy the present Earl, was measured last year ; and, at three feet from the ground, was found to be eleven feet eight inches in the girth. On approaching the banks of the river the walk again opens on the extensive lawn and from this point is presented, in fine assemblage, a variety of pleasing and striking objects. On the one hand, appears, at a proper distance, the Gothic Green-House ; and before it, gently swelling, the large expanse of velvet turf bounded, on each side, by trees and shrubs, grouped or scattered about ; and backed with darli and loftv shades ; above whic hrises, with good effect, the tower of St. Marys. On the other hand, is seen the Avon, gliding softly along ; diversified, at a small distance, by the cascade, the mill, and- the ruined arches of the bridge. Here, too, a deficiency, in the want of passing views of the main edifice, of which, soifte have complained,* in the manner of laying out the grounds, is amply compensated. For here, from a new point, the venerable Castle again appears, in all its solemn grandeur proudly ascending far above the level of the waters, and finely relieved by the mingling shades of clus- jtering ivy and spreading trees. Passing onward the Pavilion soon appears where, by a sudden change, the stranger finds himself em- bosomed within the umbrageous arms of a group of trees shut out from all view of the surrounding scenery as if for the pause of a few moments usually so needful after Gilpin's Korthern Tour, v. I. p. 40. " llie close walk reverts into itself, taking no notice, except in one single point, of the venerable pile it invests." OF THE CASTLE. 331 Near View of the Castle t>te Hill Hoiisr, the attention has been so long and vigorously excited. A slight and interrupted glance, however, may be obtained over a small branch of the river, crossed by a rustic bridge, and the opposite meadows, enlivened by browsing cattle or sheep presenting only a small assemblage of rural objects, in strong contrast wath the solemn grandeur, which is every where else displayed. Advancing towards the foundations of the Castle, on the solid rock, from which they are scarcely to be dis- tinguished its towering heighth and expanding bulk are submitted to the uninterrupted view, with great and asto- nishing effect. Even the rocks themselves, rising perpen- dicularly upward to a vast height, and richly clothed, in many parts, with ivy, moss, and other creeping plants, look with amazing grandeur. And here, from every feel- ing bosom, a passing sigh wull rise, for the melancholy fate of a youth, of noble family, cousin to Lord Bagot, who, engaged in the amusement of rowing, during the time of a considerable flood, was here unfortunately drowned, in the very view of the Castle Windows, January 10, 1800. A friend, who accompanied him, was, with difficulty, saved. A small plate of copper, unostentatiously fastened to the rock, records, in six Latin lines, the sorrows of paternal affection, on this distressing occasion.* Passing through a tower, called the Hill House, a circuitous path, carried round a well-wooded mount. * Juxta lianc tiparu, e c^mbii submenus fuit, Gualierus Bagot, Jan. lo A. D. 1800, Mt. suae 2. Oh ! crudelis Avon, Stjgta iiiftliclor uiid&, Suaviloquus post Lac noii tibi prosit Olor ! Metso, namque, luo violenfi in gurglte, unto llc verba iiiscripit fleu,,-|et aniaus Cenilur. 232 PLEASURE GROUNDS Furter'i Lodge Guj/'s Armour. affords delightful views in passing, among which that of St. Mary's tower, emulously rising above the lofty groves, is peculiarly striking. The path, pursuing its winding course,* terminates at length in a broad sj)ace, on the summit, shaded by the spreading arras of an aged and venerable fir. Here once stood the ancient Keep ; and here, now, stands what is called the Northern Tower. From this place a striking view is obtained, through an iron grating, into the inner court of the Castle, on one side ; and, on the other, the prospect extends, from the nearer grounds, over a vast expanse of country, till the eye, wandering from one attractive point to another, is finally lost in the blue mists, which usually cover, and often entirely conceal, the distant Edge Hills, and the still more distant hills of Bredon and Broadway. Descending from this woody mount, a door from the Hill House opens into the Inner Court, through which the stranger usually re-passes on his return And, before he takes his final leave of IVarwick Castle a visit is usually paid to the Porter's Lodge. Here are to be seen the following curiosities : Guy's Armour,^ undoubtedly ancient, and of enormous It i thus described in the her Boreale : Up to the tower, tho' it be sieep & liigb, We do not cliuibe but walite; & tlio' the rje Seem to be wear^, jct our feci are still In ihe same posfuxc, cozen'd up tlie hill: And tlius the \Yoiketuun's art deceaves our sence, l^Iakhig these rounds of pleasure, a defence. I Engravings of most ot these piece; of ancient aruiour are given in Gkoie'i Anciflot Armour, Pia-e 42 ficd 48. OF THE CASTLE. 233 Guij'i Horse Armour Rib of the Dun Cow. III II. I I \ weight, consisting of his sword,* shield, breast-plate, hel- met, walking-staff, and tilting-pole The Horse Armour of later date and lighter fabric on which is an insciip- tion, nearly o1)literated A large Bell-metal Pot, usually called Guy's his Flesh Fork his Ladys stirrups of Iro/i pretended Rib of the Dun Cow\\ and pith of her Horns one joint of the spine the tuskj and a shoulder blade of the Wild Boari Besides these, which are immediately connected with the history of Guy there are, a Spanish halbert - a Toledo sword a battle axe two ancient maces two daggers a General's truncheon a tomahawk ^bar chain and spike shot, dug up in the Outer Cowr^-^ an da stone coffin, found in the Inner Court, Though for the sword, and some part of the ar- mour of Guy, high antiquity is justly claimed ; yet, if* 6ven these should, after all, be thought fictitious, " they are still," says Gilpin, " no improper appendages of the place, as they give the imagination a kind of tinge, which throws an agreeable romantic colour, on all the vestiges of this venerable pile." To this short account of the Pleasure Grounds, and other appendages of the Castle, we subjoin the following li2:ht sketch of the Ride throu^-h the Park : * See p. 26. II There is a fellow Rib of this supposed Dun Co*v, preserved under the tower of Redcliffe Clmrch, Bristol. But that lliey are certainly no part of ai\y such, animal is eident, both from their enormous size, and still more from ibe position of the ribs ; which, in a cow, have their flat surface parallel to the sides of the nniinal, instead of 1irp:ndicular, as is ilie case here. It seems highly probable, therefore, that these are i)ie bones of some jnarine aniroul, since the ribs are placed in the same manner, as in most aiiim^lsof that kind wlio are thus defended, by a wise provisiun of nature, from the great pressuie of the fluid, in which they are destined to exist. G G aU PLEASURE GROUNDS ' Ride through (he Fork Vietvt of the Castle. fi i i ii'ih ii i i - -I- 1 saaaassgag . it' .fr, asassassa i ' ' ' , ni Towards the bottom of the Lawn, the great walk bf the Garden is crossed at right angles by another, lead- ing, through large and thriving plantations, to this delight- ful Ride ; which, skirting the entire boundary of the park, is continued in a wide circumference of about five miles- intersected by many collateral branches, affording other ii/We.v of pleasing variety and different distances. On one side, the principal Ride is shadedj by d broad bfelt of young* and flourishing trees, among which are seen various species of evergreens and deciduous shnibs, intermingled with the oak, the beech, the ash, and other trees of the forest exhibiting almost every gradation of tint, from the lightest and gayest to the darkest green. On the other side, open- ing to the Park, delightful views are commanded, in passing, over its undulating surface ; in some parts, thickly sprinkled with trees; in others, deeply shaded with groves ; and finely watered, in a long course, by the windings of the AvoHj and by its own beautiful lake, which spreads- into a liquid plain, " pure as the expanse of heaven,'*^ towards the centre. Here, too, with all the grandeur of park-scenery^ are united the mral beauties of a fdrme ornffe ; and pleasing views are caught, at intervals, of rich pastures, fertile corn fields, and browsing flocks and herds* The deep and solemn shade of the noble and extensive woods, through which the Ride is occasionally conducted, agreeably changes, at times, and relieves the scene. But the great charm of the whole excursion is, in the many picturesque views, which the venerable Castle itself affords sometimes bursting suddenly on the eye, through an opening in the thick shades and, at other times, display- ed, in all its magnificence, before the uninternipted sight, in the midst of the fine and richly varied landscape, of which it forms the crowning glory. OF THE CASTLE. 23 The Luke The Rialto. V I, ' .. I ' I . SSSSm Amongst othep objects that will interest and delight in this excursion, njust be particularly noticed the spacious and beautiful Lake, already mentioned, stretching, in a noble sweep, of a mile in length, and varying in its breadth from three hundred to six hundred feet. This is, indeed, w not of the kind which Virgil describes as stasna virentia rnusco ^but of that which the same great master of nature strikingly denominates vivique lacus. The waters of this fine expanse, supplied by a small stream, rising at Chesterton, six miles distant, are pure and pel- lucid: not a weed deforms its smooth surface ; not the least turbid mixture sullies the glassy clearness of its whole depth, which, in some parts, is not less than 25 I'eet. It is well stored with fish ; and enlivened with abundance of aquatic fowl, particularly the wild duck, of which some curious varieties are here to be seen. Its banks, on each side, boldly rise, graced with turfted verdure, and crowned with hanging woods. .At a small distance, on the east side, in the midst of a group of elms, is to be seen a herony, besides which so few are to be found throughout the kingdom. In another part of the park, a light and elegant Bridge appears to view bestriding the waters of the Avon, and connecting the two parts of the domain. It is built of stone, and consists of one noble arch, 24 feet in the heighth, and 101 feet in the span. Near this Bridge, is an uncommonly fine echo ; but the effect depends much upon the state of the winds. Above, upon a bold emi- nence, in the midst of towering and spreading woods, is a handsome Stone Lodge, the residence of the keeper, in which is a summer apartment, for the occasional use of the Noble Family. From this Lodge, is to be seen the G G 2 THE PRIORY. 237 Founded in tffe Reign of Henri/ I. CHAP. XXIT, Trlory of St. Sepulchre^ founded by Henri/ de Nezoburg encouraged hy "Royal Favor enriched by Public Liberality dissolved in the Reign of ' Henry VIII. Aneient Edifce granted to Thomas Hawkins pulled down and the present Structure erected Celebration of the Order of St. Michael Visit of Queen Elizabeth to the Priory the Mansion and Estate purchased by SerJ. Puckering devised to Sir H. Newton pur- chased by Henry Wiscy Esq. Present State of the Edifice the Pleasure Grounds. JL HE Piiory of St. Sepulchre, situated on the north side of IVarwich, on the site of an ancient Church, dedi- cated to St. Helen, was founde