BANCROFT 
 
 LIBRARY 
 

on'jf Glory.- 
 
 1SMFIEM(DM. (OF (DIEIIMA, 
 From an original Chinese Painting-. 
 
A 
 
 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 AND VISITS TO 
 
 VARIOUS FOREIGN COUNTRIES, 
 
 UNITED STATES FRIGATE COLUMBIA; 
 
 ATTENDED BY HER CONSORT 
 
 THE SLOOP OF WAR JOHN ADAMS, 
 
 AND COMMANDED BY 
 
 COMMODORE GEORGE C. READ. 
 
 ALSO INCLUDING 
 
 i.N AC-COUNT OF THE BOMBARDING AND FIRING OF THE TOWN OF MUCKIE, ON THE MALAT 
 
 COAST, AND THK VISIT OF THE SHIPS TO CHINA DURING THE OPIUM DIFFICULTIES 
 
 AT CANTON, AND CONFINEMENT OF THE FOREIGNERS IN THAT CITY- 
 
 BY FITCH W. TAYLOR, 
 tot&e 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 NEW-HAVEN: 
 PUBLISHED BY H. MANSFIELD 
 
 NEW-YORK: 
 
 D. APPLETON & CO., 200 BROADWAY 
 1842. 
 

 Entered according to Act of Congress, by 
 
 H. MANSFIELD, 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Connecticut* 
 
Bane- 
 
 
 TO 
 
 . 
 
 DEAR SIR : 
 
 The late East India Squadron, in its circuit of the 
 world under your command, has done honor to our coun- 
 try and professional credit to yourself. No voyage of 
 equal length in distance and in time can be made, without 
 encountering many hazards and circumstances of frequent 
 difficulty. These have been met by yourself the cruise 
 successfully completed and the purposes of the govern- 
 ment accomplished. Though it has not been my design 
 - to enter into all the details of the cruise of the East India 
 Squadron, its action will be found sufficiently developed 
 in the succeeding pages for the general reader. But it is 
 as an acknowledgment of the invariable courtesy, which 
 I have received from yourself during the voyage which 
 has originated the following pages, that I beg you to ac- 
 cept these volumes, with the assurances of my great re- 
 spect and esteem. 
 
 FITCH W. TAYLOR. 
 NEW- YORK, October, 1840. 
 
VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 S E C T I O N I. 
 
 The eve before sailing. View of the two ships from shore. A bright omen. 
 Author's adieus. The Lieutenant and miniature of his boy. An officer's 
 farewell to his wife. Social sacrifices on the part of the officers of the 
 Navy. The ships in the Roads. Lines to Mrs. R. The sailing of the 
 ships from the Roads. Ships at sea. 
 
 I SHALL never forget the sunset scene of the last even- 
 ing I spent on shore. The sky had been lowering with 
 April showers, and the sun stood yet on his declining 
 course behind the fleecy clouds, but, occasionally, broke 
 forth again through the opening vistas of their dark layers, 
 as if to assure us that life v even the most shaded, has its 
 smiles as well as tears. The mild air, at this hour, touched 
 the cheek as blandly as rests the head of lady on the 
 down of velvet ; and since the slight peals of thunder, 
 which had rolled far off and high above the city, the 
 clouds had parted ; and now, here and there, the blue dis- 
 tance beyond them was seen, in its deepness and beauty. 
 
 I went to call upon my friends. It was the last even- 
 ing I could hope to meet them, before our ships would 
 take their long course to distant seas. Besides, I had 
 been thinking of other friends, and dearer kindred, whom 
 I had already left to the chances of a world of change, 
 until another three years, perhaps, should permit us again 
 to meet. 
 
 It is at such a moment, ^when the reality nears us, we 
 feel that there is sorrow in the parting of friends. Some 
 foreboding thought, with its dark wing, will sail across the 
 imagination, and leave the heart deeply sensible of the 
 shadow it has cast. We may have much in our antici- 
 
 1* 
 
6 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 pationH of onward pleasure ; we may be looking forward 
 to opportunities for observation, in our extended associa- 
 tions with men and things, and promise to ourselves im- 
 provement as we shall read foreign manners, and commune 
 with foreign intellects, and compare foreign institutions 
 and homes with the government and society and peace- 
 ful dwellings of our own native land ; but, as we think 
 that a few hours more, and each day, for months and 
 years, we shall be receding yet further and still further 
 from those we love, and, perhaps, meet them no more ; it 
 is then the heart, that can ever feel, wakes its deepest 
 flowing sympathies. Such moments of deep feeling, 
 doubtless, come over all who travel, on the eve of their 
 leaving their native land. Before this hour, they may 
 have been busy in their preparations ; or, the time of their 
 departure may have been unfixed, as to the day ; and 
 various things contributed to dissipate the thoughts, and 
 to conceal, from the full perception of the mind, the reali- 
 ty of one's leaving, it may be for ever, those hearts to 
 whom his is most devoted. But the calm hour that pre- 
 cedes his departure has now come. The moment is 
 fixed, and he is to bid adieu, for years, to the objects he 
 holds dearest of earth. 
 
 My own moveables had been sent on board the Colum- 
 bia. We were to sail the next day. This evening I met 
 the welcome of my friends. With two of them I walked 
 to the edge of the stream, on the bosom of which the 
 two ships were now so gently reposing, still half en- 
 veloped in the fog that weighed on the still surface of 
 the stream. But it soon lifted, while we yet lingered on 
 the green bank and heard the music beat the call, as the 
 sun went down in its glory behind the pillars of the dark 
 clouds, piled like Alps on Alps above each other, as the 
 sunbeams threw upon their castellated peaks the last 
 gleams of its departing and indescribable glories. Here 
 we still lingered, to watch the tints of gold, and crimson, 
 and emerald green, as they melted away into the dun of 
 earliest twilight ; when, as if Ify magic, the still lingering 
 stratum of vapor, which hung around the two ships, 
 rolled back, and left every cord of the beautiful frigate 
 and her consort lined on the distant horizon beyond them ; 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 7 
 
 while the crescent of the new moon, from the^point 
 where we were standing, seemed fixed, in its morrBlary 
 rest, on the main-truck of the beautiful Columbia. Surely, 
 if I could have ever believed in omens, 1 should have in- 
 terpreted this as a bright one, as I carried on my thoughts 
 to the lands whither that dark courser was soon to speed, 
 and heard at the same moment the roll, as the few beats 
 of the drum came over the water, only to render doubly 
 more still the breathless silence of this enchanting scene. 
 
 We slowly paced our way back to the circle which 
 we had left, and soon, my last land-adieu was spoken ; 
 and the next morning, at sunrise, I was on board our gal- 
 lant ship. In another half-hour our anchors were aweigh, 
 and we dropped, with a fair wind, down to the Roads, 
 some fifteen miles from Norfolk, with the John Adams, 
 our consort, following our motions. 
 
 While our new ship was gliding, like enchantment, 
 through the waters from Norfolk to the Roads, to the de- 
 light of all the officers, who were solicitous to mark her 
 first movements, and were trimming the yards, and di- 
 recting as to the different sails, there was one officer, 
 whose epaulet (usually worn when on duty) rested not 
 upon his shoulder. He stood upon the horse-block, as 
 the side-steps of the ship are called, his elbow resting 
 upon the hammock-nettings, and sometimes his temples 
 rested upon his hand. I know not what were his thoughts, 
 but he had been unwell, and was yet off duty, and had now 
 parted with a loved and lovely wife, and a cherished boy, 
 who is his " only and beautiful." He did not long re- 
 main on deck, but returned to the ward-room ; and there, 
 soon after, he showed me, as I went below and found him 
 contemplating it, a beautiful picture and striking resem- 
 blance of his child, which the mother had caused to be 
 taken for the father, that it might go with him on the 
 seas. 
 
 Another officer said to me last evening, as he was 
 walking in Norfolk with some rapidity in the edge of 
 the evening to say adieu to his wife before he went on 
 board, " Death were a blessing to me rather than this 
 farewell !" 
 
 There is much in the world which casts its mists, and 
 
8 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 shadows, and darkness over its brightest views. But 
 there 'tire those feelings constantly heing developed before 
 us, which make us look with a kind and melting heart, if 
 not with a melting eye, on those with whom we asso- 
 ciate. And nowhere more than in the service of the navy 
 are the social feelings called on to pour out those bitter 
 currents, which flow when hearts that are bound together 
 by the ties of hallowed love are severed. And surely, some 
 consideration should be awarded to those men, who not 
 only brave the seas, and dare pestiferous climes for the 
 protection of our commerce and for the tranquillity and 
 defence of our homes and nation, but also leave the 
 sweets of their own domestic circles and the bosoms of at- 
 tached friends for a home upon the wild wave, and the 
 precarious course of the wanderers on the world's wide 
 ocean. 
 
 Our ships, for one week, lay at anchor in Hampton 
 Roads. There was a daily communication with Norfolk 
 by the steamer, which ran from Old Point to the city. 
 Many parting mementoes from friends were thus received 
 by the gentlemen of the ward-room, during our week's 
 stay ; and an occasional visiter from town was found 
 upon our decks. Among other acceptable attentions, to 
 be acknowledged on my own part, was the reception of 
 a fine loaf of plumb-cake, jars of pickles, and, daily, rich 
 bouquets of flowers " to deck my tiny room," which were 
 unsurpassed for their beauty and fragrance by any col- 
 lection that could have been made, even from that island 
 of flowers for which we were first to sail. And then, 
 more acceptable than all, were letters, " to be opened 
 when at sea." 
 
 Commodore Read's lady had spent the week on board 
 the Columbia ; and by her courteous, accomplished, and 
 benevolent manners, won the high consideration and as- 
 sured esteem of the officers of the ship. We were to 
 sail, by light, on Sunday morning, for Rio de Janeiro, 
 touching first at the island of Madeira, should the wind 
 favor our wishes. On Saturday evening Mrs. R., who 
 had been waited upon by Major M.'s family, then sta- 
 tioned at Old Point, accompanied them to the shore. The 
 incident of her leaving on the eve of our sailing, under 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 9 
 
 the broad pennant of her husband, will render an apology 
 unnecessary for the introduction of the following lines, 
 addressed to her at such a moment, and with the felt in- 
 terest they express : 
 
 TO MRS. R. 
 
 On the eve of the sailing of the East India Squadron, under the command of Commodore 
 George C. Read. 
 
 Lady, calmly rides our bark 
 
 On the green wave of the bay, 
 But like a charger soon will take 
 
 Her fleet and distant way. 
 Proudly waves her pennant now 
 
 From main-truck to the breeze, 
 And soon in graceful curve she'll bow, 
 
 And course for Indian seas. 
 
 Music of the sea-surge oft 
 
 Hath met thy lady ear, 
 And firm as fearless men aloft 
 
 The sea-moan thou didst hear. 
 Beauty of the witching calm 
 - Hath held thy gaze at sea, 
 As in its stilly ocean-sheen 
 
 The blue deep smiled for thee. 
 
 And song, they say, once could charm 
 
 The Nereids of the deep; 
 Then sure thy notes had spells for them 
 
 As ocean lulled to sleep. 
 Would that now that gifted hand 
 
 Upon our course might come, 
 And while we wept beneath its wand, 
 
 In tears we'd think of home : 
 
 Home ! where oft a sister's tone, 
 
 In sweetest melody, 
 Hath on the heart its cadence thrown, 
 
 And broke it tearfully ; 
 Home ! where truest hearts of love 
 
 For each their feelings mete, 
 And we but smile, or sigh, or move, 
 
 And kindred bosoms beat 
 
 But, fair lady, not again 
 
 The wild wave thou dost d^re, 
 Though with thy lord we plough the main, 
 
 And his broad pennant bear ; 
 
10 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Still thy night-dreams and of day 
 
 Will paint their visions true, 
 And trace us to yon lands and sea, 
 
 Where suns first loom to view. 
 
 And O ! thou wilt pray for him 
 
 Who guides our gallant fleet, 
 And never woman's prayer hath been 
 
 By heaven unanswered yet. 
 Then we'll trust us on our course, 
 
 And think of those who pray, 
 And as our thoughts on them repose, 
 
 For them a prayer we'll say. 
 
 But, adieu we now must speak, 
 
 And storms of ocean dare ; 
 And on the crested billow's peak 
 
 Is home that we must share ; 
 But for thee we've asked a sty 
 
 Calm as the breath of even, 
 And bright as gleams the loveliest ray 
 
 On home, in smiles, from heaven. 
 
 On the 6th of May, 1838, at daybreak, all hands were 
 piped to- unmoor ship, and a bright sun let fall his earliest 
 beam on our white sails, as we were standing by the long 
 granite line of threatening fortification at Old Point. Ano- 
 ther hour and we had passed Cape Henry, and with a 
 fair breeze stood on our course upon the blue deep, while 
 the John Adams came on in our wake, as a thing of ani- 
 mation, graceful as she was fleet, and like a nettled steed, 
 unwilling to be parted from his associate, she put forth 
 her strength and regained the side of her companion. 
 
 Beautiful ships ! now are ye now the objects of the 
 thoughts, and the prayers, and the tears, of tender hearts 
 and floating eyes, from whom ye are now bearing the 
 choicest of their earthly treasures above the fickle wave 
 toWbreign climes, through dangers known and unknown, 
 with the chances that ye yourselves may be dashed upon 
 the rock and the coral reef, or wrecked in storm and hur- 
 ricane, as a sacrifice to the yet uncompleted millions, 
 who are to find thgir burial in the insatiable bosom of the 
 eternal ocean ! Bat ye list not while we would tell ye, 
 that there are mothers' prayers that attend you, that there 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 11 
 
 are sighs of sisters, whose young hearts have yet known 
 no deeper love than that for brothers ; and tears, and 
 sighs, and prayers of others, whose hearts in their devo- 
 tion and companionship, they say, are yet dearer than 
 the love of mother and sister, follow you. Be gentle 
 then, beautiful ships, be gentle with the choice band, who 
 have trusted you for their long course of ocean, and bear 
 back to the renewed gush of love, the bosoms who have 
 confided in your stanch and faithful properties, to bear 
 them safe and true in their circuit of the world. 
 
 I had now placed myself on the side-steps of the fri- 
 gate, and gazed for the last time, I could not tell for how 
 long a period it would be, on the land of my home fast 
 receding in the distance. The heart has its private mu- 
 sings at such a moment, and communes too sacredly with 
 itself for development to the eye of an unsympathizing 
 world. But there were friends who had more than one 
 sigh, as the distant shore sunk lower, and lower still, in 
 the dim, dim distance. 
 
 The blue surge, in its sea-roll, now quite concealed the 
 land of our western homes, as our ships, heartless rovers 
 of the deep, stood on their foaming course to the east. I 
 sought the retirement of my state-room, for the melan- 
 choly pleasure of perusing the letters addressed to me 
 on board " The Frigate Columbia, at Sea." 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 Sailors' debts paid with the main-top-sail. Broad pennant saluted. System 
 of signals. How to shoot an Indian. An acting appointment. Reli- 
 gious service at sea. Marine hymn. Dinner party at sea. Parting with 
 the John Adams. The middle watch. Speaking a ship. Phosphorescent 
 track of the Columbia at night. Music. Sunset. A seaman falling from 
 aloft. Burial at sea. Its effect on a young Midshipman. A ship short 
 of provisions, supplied. The John Adams again in company. The high 
 peaks of Madeira descried. Distant view of the island on the eve of the 
 squadron's arrival. 
 
 " THANK heaven !" said a messmate, as the capes were 
 disappearing, " our debts are all paid, at least, for two 
 
12 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 years to come." " Yes," added another, " paid with our 
 main-top-sail" True it is, our sails are bearing us fast 
 alike from creditor and debtor, from enemy, friend, and 
 home. 
 
 As the broad blue pennant was run up, after we had left 
 the last point of land low in the west, the John Adams 
 fired a salute. The Commodore, by signals, directed our 
 consort to take her position on our larboard quarter. As 
 she came down to us, she exhibited a beautiful movement, 
 gracefully gliding on her course, bowing, and courtesying, 
 and coquetting, like a beauty aware of her charms, and 
 knowing herself the object of admiration. She luffed up, 
 as she laid her bows obliquely across our wake. Our first 
 Lieutenant, with the trumpet in his hand, stood upon the 
 tafferel of the ship, and as the Adams reached her nearest 
 point, he spoke through the sounding tube : 
 
 " The Commodore will send a boat aboard of you, sir." 
 
 " Ay, ay, sir," was the sententious response of the of- 
 ficer, from the deck of the Adams. The two ships came 
 so nearly together, that the officers recognised each other, 
 and touched their caps in acknowledgment of each other's 
 courtesy. 
 
 It is not an uninteresting sight to witness two ships, 
 while tossed on the surges of the ocean, and beyond speak- 
 ing distance, conversing with each other by means of 
 signals. 
 
 Every nation has its private signals. In war and in 
 peace, the signal book is held sacred, and the signals are 
 supposed to be known only to the commander of each 
 vessel. In case of war, if a national vessel happen to be 
 captured, the signal book is at once thrown overboard, 
 before the victor can gain possession of it. Otherwise he 
 might decoy into his power, by a knowledge of these 
 private signs, other ships of the nation with which he is 
 at war. 
 
 The system of signals has never yet been brought to 
 any great perfection, in practice, by any maritime power. 
 Since the introduction of numbers into telegraphic lan- 
 guage, however, the communication by signals has been 
 extended and facilitated ; and it has created a language 
 that may be made use of as a more general means of 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 13 
 
 communication between ships at sea, and from ships with 
 the shore. 
 
 Ten separate flags, with different devices in figure and 
 colors, are used, as. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, ; the 
 number of each being known by its device. The flags are 
 read from the top downwards. Thus, if it is desired to 
 make the number 15 to a distant ship, which however is 
 sufficiently near to make out, with her glass, the emblems 
 by which the numbers of the signal are known, the two 
 flags which stand for No. 1 and No. 5 are set, at the gaff 
 or other part of the ship, where the signal can most readi- 
 ly be made out by the distant vessel. If the No. 152 is 
 to be communicated, the flag representing No. 2 will be 
 set beneath the two flags already mentioned. 
 
 The signal book contains numbers from one to one 
 thousand, more or less, and opposite each number is some 
 nautical phrase, sentence, name of place, latitude, longi- 
 tude, or other expressions, and sufficiently numerous and 
 varied for most purposes. Therefore, w T hen the number 
 is made out by the distant vessel, a reference to the signal 
 book will give the expression opposite to it, which it is the 
 wish of one party to communicate to the other. Suppose, 
 then, No. 15 of the signal book has opposite to it the word 
 " yes ;" No. 16, the words "if wind and weather permit ;" 
 No. 17, " Sunday ;" No. 18, " 2 o'clock ;" No. 19, " Will 
 you dine with us ?" With these numbers we may illustrate 
 the subject by a case which has already occurred on board 
 our ship. The Commodore, desiring to invite the Com- 
 mander of the John Adams to take dinner with him, di- 
 rects the flag-officer to have the signal No. 19 made, 
 which is done by setting the two flags which stand for the 
 numbers one and nine. This being read on board the 
 Adams, an answering pennant, which means, " We have 
 made out the number," is run up and again hauled down. 
 The number of the first signal having been read, the second 
 or No. 18, in like manner with the first, is made by the 
 two flags representing one and eight. This answered, as 
 being understood on board the other vessel, No. 17 is 
 made by the flags No. 1 and No. 7. No further signals 
 following from the Columbia, the Commander of the Adams, 
 by referring to the signal book, finds it to read, 
 
 2 
 
14 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " No. 19. Will you dine with us ?" 
 
 " No. 18. Sunday." 
 
 "No. 17. 2 o'clock." 
 
 The Commander of the Adams, accepting the invitation", 
 replies by making the numbers 16 and 15, which will 
 read, " Yes, if wind and weather permit." 
 
 Signals, in the night-time, are often made by lights of 
 different colors, and by adjusting them in different posi- 
 tions, at various angles ; by rockets and by fires. 
 
 The signal book of the navy has attached to it a heavy 
 piece of lead, which would immediately sink it if thrown 
 overboard. 
 
 I quote, at random, the following numbers from the 
 " American Signal Book," which is generally used in the 
 American merchant service : 
 
 * 219. What are you about ?" 
 
 "313. A mutiny onboard." 
 
 "716. If we have not immediate assistance." 
 
 " 962. All's lost." 
 
 "718. We will send assistance." 
 
 " 188. Heave all aback." 
 
 " 332. Mutiny is quelled." 
 
 " 40. All's well." 
 
 "327. Adieu." 
 
 " I tell you what," says Lieutenant W. (the subject of 
 shooting the aborigines of our land being under discussion,) 
 if you would kill an Indian, you must proceed somewhat 
 after the manner of cooking a dolphin." " How is that ?" 
 " Why, catch him first." 
 
 It is not unusual for the young gentlemen of the ship 
 to avail themselves of any innocent occasion for creating 
 a smile at the expense of one of their messmates. As we 
 left the Roads without the usual number of Lieutenants, 
 it was presumed that some of the passed Midshipmen would 
 receive acting appointments. By consequence, these young 
 gentlemen were on tiptoe expectation for the announce- 
 ment of their acceptable good fortune. One of the Lieuten- 
 ants, a young gentleman of wit and worth, caught a pen 
 at my desk, and scribbled an acting appointment for one 
 of these expectants, for whom there was no doubt but that 
 an acting appointment had been made out by the Com- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 15 
 
 modore, who yet, for the present, retained the paper. 
 Having finished the fictitious appointment, it was regularly 
 enclosed within the official fawn-colored envelope, and 
 conveyed to the Master (who is a passed Midshipman) 
 by the orderly, who generally bears the particularly offi- 
 cial messages from the Commodore. The orderly knock- 
 ed at the door of the Master, who was in his room, busily 
 making out the reckonings of the day's sailing. " Come 
 in, sir," echoed a voice from within, while the Lieutenant 
 and some others were standing at a distance without to 
 witness the effect. The Master's door was opened. The 
 fawn-colored envelope acted like a spell. The Master 
 dropped his figuring utensils, and hopped into " the coun- 
 try" of the ward-room, as its open space is called, holding 
 up his fawn-colored envelope and exclaiming in abundant 
 exultation, in the possession of an acting Lieutenancy, 
 " I writes no more of these Master's figurations, gentle- 
 men," shaking the fawn-colored, with three significant 
 configurations above his head, and at the same time open- 
 ing the seal, read as follows : 
 
 " U. S. Frigate Columbia, May 1st, 1838. 
 
 " SIR, You are hereby appointed acting Jemmy Ducks of this ship until 
 it shall please the Hon. the Secretary of the Navy, to confirm the appoint- 
 ment. 
 
 " Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 "'CORINTHIAN TOM,' 
 
 " Commander in chief of all the U. S. poultry in the China sea. 
 " To &c. <fec." 
 
 The joke went off with a round peal of laughter from 
 Corinthian Tom ; and the same evening the acceptable 
 appointments were distributed to the young gentlemen, so 
 worthily deserving them, in view of the arduous duties 
 which lay before them on a long and critical voyage. 
 
 " What olden poet," it was asked at the mess-table to- 
 day, while an antique chicken was under both discussion 
 and dissection, "does one think of when masticating the 
 drumstick of a tough one ?" " I have it," said another, as he 
 gave the experimental answer, with a delicate morsel of 
 the antique gentleman between his teeth. "Chauser," 
 was the reply, as the chewer took breath, to save him 
 from premature exhaustion. 
 
16 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 If these are trifles, they yet show that trifles are not 
 always excluded from shipboard, any more than from the 
 society of triflers on land. And they further show that 
 men, thrown together within the narrow compass of a 
 ward-room, with dispositions and tastes perhaps alike in 
 no two instances, can yet make themselves agreeable and 
 become true and lasting friends. 
 
 The weather being fair on Sunday, we had divine ser- 
 vice on the upper deck. Such a service on board a man- 
 of-war is characteristic and interesting. 
 
 At half-past ten o'clock, the decks of the ship having 
 been cleared, as usual, and the men having been inspected 
 at their quarters, they are piped, on Sunday morning, in 
 their best dresses, to muster. 
 
 A frigate's company, in all, generally consists of five 
 hundred persons. At the call to muster, the men take their 
 position on the quarter-deck. In warm weather, they are 
 generally dressed in white duck trousers, white shirts, with 
 blue collars and bosoms. The broad blue collar is turned 
 down, with a star upon each corner, and the blue bosom 
 exposes three stripes of narrow white tape, edging the 
 inserted blue. A black silk neck-cloth, beneath the over- 
 turned collar, is knotted on the bosom, or tied with a piece 
 of white tape, leaving the neck open and exposed. A 
 blue jacket, unbuttoned, polished shoes, with tarpaulin hat, 
 or a lighter straw one in warm weather, complete the 
 uniform and characteristic dress of an American seaman. 
 The whole appearance of the sailors on this day is ex- 
 pected to be such as to pass the particular examination by 
 the officers an inspection which they invariably go through 
 on this day, alter the religious services are over their 
 names being called, one by one, as they pass from their 
 positions in review directly before the officers, who still 
 retain their places until the muster-roll is finished. Should 
 the shoes of any one of the men be found unpolished, or 
 any portion of the dress be characteristic of negligence, 
 the man is directed to stop at the mainmast. It is known 
 that such an offence incurs a penalty of half a dozen lashes 
 at the gangway, and most frequently it is inflicted. This 
 tends to render the appearance of the whole crew strik- 
 ingly neat on the Sabbath, in their uniform sailor-dresses. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 17 
 
 AMERICAN TAR. 
 
18 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 And this requisite, as to particularity in dress, extends to the 
 officers, who are expected to appear in their uniform, and 
 with as great a care to neatness as is required of the men. 
 
 The sailors thus placed upon the quarter-deck, the ma- 
 rines, about sixty in number, are next drawn up, in dou- 
 ble file, in full dress, on the larboard side of the ship, with 
 the right of the division resting near the sailors on the 
 quarter-deck, and stand, with their polished guns, at rest. 
 
 On the starboard side, opposite the marines, is the po- 
 sition of the officers of the ship ; and between them, with 
 the officers on his left, and the marines on his right, and 
 the sailors directly in front, on the quarter-deck, the Chap- 
 lain takes his position at the capstan, both as his desk and 
 pulpit. The capstan in itself is an object of ornament 
 on board a frigate, standing abaft the mainmast, and is 
 generally inlaid with different devices of stars and other 
 figures of brass, and always kept brightly polished. Over 
 the top of the capstan, which is some four feet in diame- 
 ter, a flag is thrown, in preparation for the expected ser- 
 vice, and the platform on which the chaplain stands is al- 
 so covered with bunting. When the chaplain is in his 
 position, the commanding officer stands near his left, with 
 the other officers but a small distance still further at the 
 left of the chief officer. 
 
 The deck is generally in this attitude when the Chap- 
 lain ascends the hatchway from his room, and takes his 
 position at the capstan. The Commodore taking a book 
 from the number, which are upon the capstan and before 
 the Chaplain the others are distributed among the officers ; 
 when the Chaplain begins the religious services according 
 to the ritual of the Episcopal church. 
 
 Surely no one can, for the first time, contemplate such 
 a scene on the deck of a man-of-war, without interest 
 nearly five hundred souls, their persons attired in their 
 neatest dresses, often deemed a rough people, but now 
 exhibiting a beautiful aspect of propriety and neatness, 
 and profoundest stillness, gathered for solemn worship on 
 the decks of a majestic frigate, bounding yet fleetly on 
 her way of ocean, yet, as if conscious of the solemn hour 
 and the solemn scene upon her deck, scarcely once ca- 
 reening or pitching so perceptibly as to inconvenience 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 19 
 
 the worshippers. Around spreads the far blue deep, and 
 above the lair blue sky ; and God is seen in the majesty 
 and the beauty of both. The Chaplain commences the 
 profound worship of the Eternal it is continued it ends. 
 
 The service on these occasions is generally and pro- 
 perly abbreviated, and the sermon, it is expected, will be 
 comparatively brief, as the officers and crew are standing 
 throughout the .service, uncovered, but beneath a spread 
 awning, shading the entire deck when the weather is warm. 
 
 Our services to-day, with little variations to meet the 
 circumstances of the ship, now but eight days at sea, were 
 conducted after the manner described. 
 
 MARINE HYMN. 
 
 O God, the suns were made by thee, 
 And stars that arch the deep blue sea ; 
 We course the waves beneath their light, 
 And trace thy hand by day and night. 
 
 We hear the roar of ocean-surge, 
 And know, for thee, the gale will urge ; 
 And on the sea when rests the calm, 
 The stilly breeze sleeps in thy palm. 
 
 And when our ships ride on the deep, 
 And waters only round us sweep, 
 The heart then feels thy throne is high, 
 And on the sailor rests thine eye. 
 
 Then hear our worship, O our God, 
 
 Who gemmed the heavens and seas laid broad ; 
 
 Before thee now our hearts we lay, 
 
 And in our sea-horne temple, pray. 
 
 The day was fine. The John Adams was seen on our 
 larboard quarter, nearly within the sound of the Chap- 
 lain's voice. The sermon was delivered without inter- 
 ruption, save now and then a single flap of the wing of 
 a sail was heard, and once, a suppressed order from the 
 officer of the deck to the captain of the mizen-top. 
 
 Captain Wyman, of the John Adams, was invited on 
 board the Columbia, the succeeding day, to dine, together 
 with the Commodore, with the ward-room mess. 
 
 It would be interesting to a landsman, to see one of 
 the boats of a man-of-war, with all the confidence of 
 
20 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 security, passing from one ship to another, in mid ocean. 
 Our ships, however, in this instance, are within a mile 
 of each other, and the invitation to the commander of the 
 Adams, was given by signal. Nor less a matter of sur- 
 prise, perhaps, would it appear to some of our friends, 
 could they peep into our spacious ward-room, and mark 
 the degree of neatness and taste with which a table is 
 arranged for a dinner-patry, on board our frigate. The 
 manner of serving up a dinner in the ward-room, would 
 in no way do discredit to a dining-hall on shore. The 
 polished covers, the pure French china, the silver forks, 
 the napkins arid the damask table-cloths, covering a well- 
 polished mahogany table, all show no inconsiderable de- 
 gree of elegance ; and under the management of Dr. H., 
 our tasteful caterer, presented, on this occasion, an ap- 
 pearance that would be respectable in any private par- 
 lor. And then the different dishes, got up by French 
 cooks, (heaven bless the French genius, when variety is 
 desired,) are quite sufficient to satisfy the taste as well as 
 the appetite. And fruits are always kept by the mess, 
 and pastries are made per order of the caterer. In 
 truth, one would hardly remember that he was not in the 
 private dining-hall of a friend, if one happened to have his 
 friends around him, the motion of the frigate not being 
 sufficient to create any inconvenience, as may be sup- 
 posed, so far as the present occasion was concerned, as the 
 tables were unlashed, and no article of the dishes moved 
 from their position, otherwise than they would have been 
 from the table of an unrocked dwelling of one's land-home. 
 
 After a beautiful sunset last evening, May 14th, the 
 sun clouded in, and the rain descended, at times, in tor- 
 rents. It was so thick, that nothing could be seen five 
 lengths of the frigate, ahead of her. The weather, as 
 usual in the Gulf Stream, has been more or less rainy, 
 but more favorable than is generally found to attend a 
 passage across it. 
 
 At a half-hour by sun, a signal was made to the John 
 Adams, for tacking ship. The Columbia changed her 
 course gracefully, as the Adams still stood on her way, 
 apparently directly by us, lining her beautiful form in 
 distinct relief on the glorious sky, then illumined by the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 21 
 
 golden sunset behind her. But soon, when on our lar- 
 board quarter, she came up into the wind, and tacked 
 with grace ; and the two coursers together, stood again 
 on their equal and parallel track. We were still to- 
 gether during the middle-watch. But, this morning, the 
 Adams is not to be seen. She can be descried nowhere 
 upon the ocean, and probably will take good care not to 
 get into our company again, if she can avoid it, until we 
 shall reach Madeira. It is generally deemed a pardonable 
 offence, for one vessel sailing in company with another, 
 and having a common rendezvous, to make her escape, 
 if a plausible excuse can be rendered to the flag-ship. 
 
 The mists and squalls of last night, were quite too 
 good an opportunity for the Adams not to get out of 
 sight. And doubtless they are in high glee this morning, 
 at their good fortune, in being at liberty to trace their 
 own way, without following the motions, in making and 
 shortening sail, in mimic suit of the Columbia, to whose 
 movements she has to accommodate herself. " By heav- 
 ens," says an interesting small gentleman, on board the 
 Adams, as he takes his seat at the mess-table this morn- 
 ing, " I managed it, gentlemen, last night, any how, 
 ay ?" with a small flourish or two of his finger, as he 
 edges a little nearer the table, to commence a very short 
 description of the movement and other things. 
 
 The John Adams had orders to stand for Madeira, if 
 we parted company ; and having watered and taken in 
 all necessary supplies, to stand on her way again, for 
 Rio de Janeiro, unless the Columbia should be at Funchal, 
 the capital of the island of Madeira, at the time of her 
 reaching there. 
 
 As I sought the deck, to-night, I saluted the officer of 
 the watch, by touching my hat, as the usual ceremony 
 of respect to the deck-officer, adding, 
 
 " O Pilot, 'tis a fearful night, 
 
 There's danger on the deep ; 
 I'll come and pace the deck with thee, 
 I do not dare to sleep." 
 
 " Come," said the Lieutenant, " at the middle-watch, 
 that is the hour we have for gentle memories." 
 
22 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 It was a lovely night, and not such as the poetry quot- 
 ed would lead one to suppose, but such as might awaken 
 poetry in sentiment, in one who yet might never have 
 made rhymes. 
 
 " And then," I said, " it is not with you, as the sailors 
 say, that salt water washes away the recollections of 
 home r 
 
 " No," continued the officer of the deck. " Were I a 
 young lady with a lover, I would command him to go to 
 sea. I am sure his affections would be deepened in the 
 long and deep memories which awake while he paces 
 the deck in the hours of the middle-watch." 
 
 " And how is it with you, Doctor ?" I asked, as the 
 fleet surgeon joined our promenade. "Do you find that 
 the briny mist washes away your soft musings of home, 
 and wife, and the little ones ?" 
 
 "Ah, sir," returned the surgeon, " I find it like a mor- 
 daunt of the chemist and the dyer, one ingredient of 
 which is salt, and which they use to fix indelibly their 
 colors. And yet 1 shut my eyes as much as possible to 
 the visions which come up before me, in their every hue 
 of love and home-associations." 
 
 "For myself," I added, "there was sufficient of the 
 nausea about me, for four or live days, to make me think 
 only of my uninteresting self: but I now cast my look 
 over the waste f waters between me and those I love, 
 and feast sadly but happily on the memories which winds 
 and waves cannot bear from me." 
 
 The watches of the ship are divided into eight, each 
 Lieutenant, in turn, keeping the deck during one watch. 
 He is called, for the time being, the officer of the deck; 
 and through him, all orders are issued, and to him the 
 care of the sailing f the ship is committed. The watches 
 at night are from H till \'2. called the first watch ; from 12 
 till 4, called the mid-watch : from 4 till 8, called the morn- 
 ing watch. During these hours, if the wind is fair, the 
 Lieutenant has much time for thinking, as may be the 
 train of his feelings, in happy or in sorrowful musings. 
 And I can imagine how often the, memories of home, 
 come up to the mind of the young Lieutenant, as he paces 
 the deck, with the trumpet in his hand, alone ; occasion- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 23 
 
 ally casting up his eye to mark the trim of the sails, and 
 issues, at one moment, an order to give a pull upon a brace, 
 which serves to break in upon the train of his deepening 
 memories. But he soon again renews his monotonous 
 step, and the gentle recollections come over him, which 
 transport him to those he loves, while he almost thinks 
 himself in their embraces, in happy commune, until a sud- 
 den sigh comes from some sudden consciousness that it is 
 but a dream ; and he wakes to the reality, that he is yet 
 stemming on his long course, still away and away from 
 the land of his home, the young companion of his bosom, 
 and friends less near than she, but still dear in his delight- 
 ful and welcome loves. 
 
 On the morning of the 18th, a barque from Havre, 
 bound to Baltimore, came down upon us, with most of her 
 sails set, as we bore a little out of our course to meet her, 
 that we might forward letters to our friends in the United 
 States. A letter bag was soon prepared, and a boat low- 
 ered. Lieut. Turner and Mid. Sincler boarded the barque, 
 as she lay off from us, with her sails aback, exhibiting a 
 fine model of an American ship. 
 
 It was a beautiful sight as the two ships lay aback, and 
 a moment lingered on their separate courses, while the 
 frigate's boat bounded on the surge, to bear our tokens 
 of remembrances to friends and to communicate with a 
 ship from a foreign land. 
 
 As soon as our boat had left the barque, on her return 
 to the frigate, a fog came up suddenly over the ocean, 
 with a change of the wind to the west. The barque filled 
 away, and in a few moments was lost in the mists that 
 swept over the sea ; and had our boat been delayed fif- 
 teen minutes longer, she might have been shut in by the 
 fog ; while, however, in this instance, there would have 
 been no danger, as she was within the hearing of our 
 ship's bell. The scene was an interesting exhibition, re- 
 calling to the mind occurrences which often take place at 
 sea when a boat has been despatched from the ship. The 
 instances are many of a fog unexpectedly overtaking a 
 boat, when, in the absence of a compass, the course be- 
 comes unknown. In such a case, the ship, having the 
 bearing of the point from which the boat is expected, 
 
24 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 stands for her accordingly, and in most cases, by the dis- 
 charge of guns and the sounding of the bell, the boat is 
 recovered. 
 
 To-night, now after ten o'clock, our frigate presents a 
 magnificent exhibition, while cutting her way of light 
 through the dark ocean. Clouds hang thick above us, 
 veiling star and moon from the sight; and the fresh 
 breeze drives our gallant vessel twelve knots the hour on 
 her course. She leaves in her wake a stream of light, 
 which blazes forth in its mellow and spreading trail, like 
 the tail of a comet lined on the blue heavens ; and before 
 her the phosphorescent billow curves around her. bow a 
 mighty crest of ever rolling and flashing light. Beyond 
 us, the illumined peaks of the waves, as they break, sail 
 down in their silver sheets, to mingle their sheen of phos- 
 phorescence in the flood of glory, which the ship carries 
 before her. How grand ! how beautiful ! I went far out 
 upon the bowsprit to get a fairer view of her stem, buried, 
 as it is, in its halo of glory, and throwing up its cascades 
 of corruscating light. What is she like as she careers on 
 her way, a giant in her prowess, and yet, in her graceful 
 make, a fit personification of the genius of America? 
 And she is the genius of our own, our native land. Her 
 name, too, is Columbia, and she is driving onward, to 
 bear proud credentials of her origin and of the glory of 
 the land she owns, to far and wilder nations, and older 
 but not prouder dominions and people than the land from 
 which she sails. God speed thee, good ship. Thou art 
 freighted with some choice spirits, and with honorable 
 designs. Thy way, to-night, is one of light and glory. 
 May it be brightly ominous of thy good reception ; and 
 emblem forth thine honorable offices and untarnished 
 bearing, while on thy mission of courtesy and reciproca- 
 ted good will of the younger West to the olden East. 
 
 The Mahonese, Mr. C., has occasionally favored us 
 with music, playing on the guitar, and accompanied to- 
 night by one of the ward-room officers, on the flute. Our 
 First Lieutenant sang a sweet little air, with taste and 
 feeling. How it comes over the soul, that sweet strain 
 of symphony ! Music, I love thee ever ! Thou art to 
 me an inspirer a soother and yet thou sometimes 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 25 
 
 breakest my heart, and I weep ! Oh, are they not happy 
 thoughts which thou awakest, as thou bearest me over 
 the vast waters to those I love as I seem anew to hear 
 the dulcet strains, which the voices of loved ones have 
 poured upon my ear in days that are gone ! I find my- 
 self more and more susceptible to the influence of sweet 
 harmonies. And yet, it is sometimes difficult to analyze 
 the spell of enchantment which comes over me. But it 
 intoxicates like the papaver of the opium-eater. Still I 
 wish to pour out these feelings in lonely commune with 
 myself. They are all too hallowed emotions for the 
 sympathy of others. Sweet music, I will love thee ever, 
 for thy power is always kind. Thou takest me anew 
 along the woodland acclivities and deep ravines, and 
 shaded and meadow-plains of my own grounds. Thou 
 recallest the moon-lit nights, when I have paced the ave- 
 nues with a sister leaning on my arm, and we have paused 
 and gazed together on the bright bosom of the river, 
 sleeping in its flood of moonbeams. And thou tellest me 
 when together we have sat on the embowered bench, 
 and not a bird was awake, and moist eve had perfumed 
 the balmy air, and for me the guitar was struck was 
 struck for me and we loved more kindly, and our hearts 
 were more blessed. And when, further off, sweet music 
 hath awakened, I have leaned upon my elbow, and gazed 
 from the lattice of my country home, and contemplated 
 the deep shade beneath the fruit-trees and the forest clus- 
 ters, and read the bright stars above when seen through the 
 shady vistas, and when the romance of nature was weav- 
 ing her mystic and fairy and enchanted visions of days 
 yet to come, when all would be well when all would be 
 happy when all would be bliss. Ah ! those days I hoped 
 for, where are ye ? But it was happiness thus to muse 
 thus to despond thus to hope thus, in imagination, to 
 realize in fancied possession, more than the growing re- 
 ality. Music, I will love thee ever ! 
 
 The monotony of ship-board would be fatiguing, were 
 there not various things at sea to relieve the prevailing 
 sameness. The sunset scenes are often magnificent, and 
 various as are the courses of the evening clouds, and the 
 latitude and longitude through which we sail. The sunset 
 
 3 
 
26 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 scene to-night, in longitude 32 48' W., would be indescrib- 
 able, if the description were expected to meet the reality. 
 But there is such a thing as employing general terms to 
 awaken the beautiful in emotion, which, if sufficiently dis- 
 tinct in the picture they define, will convey to another's 
 bosom some of the delightful emotions one's self has felt, 
 when gazing at an object addressed to our perceptions, of 
 the glorious, the beautiful, and the sublime. Such was the 
 sunset scene of this evening. Its beauty consisted in the 
 different layers of clouds, horizontally placed one above 
 the other, some extending further, some not so far broken 
 here and united there while intervening strata of the 
 deeper back-ground were seen to divide these several 
 layers, and varying in its hue, from the palest light to the 
 faintest blue ; and then to the lightest, brightest, and deep- 
 est green, so as to present the back expanse, in its various 
 changes, now like an ocean of emerald-green water, un- 
 rippled, and throwing back its flood of mellowed and green 
 light, while the island-clouds, with their edges fringed with 
 light, became less bright and more dark in their colors 
 as the eye receded from their scalloped and illumined 
 edges to their centres. And then, far up and far off, as 
 the sun just now entered a broken bank of clouds, were 
 seen other piles of the airy voyagers in their various hues 
 of light, and dark, and dun, yet everywhere in their velvet 
 mellowness, soft as a 
 
 " Sunbeam gone astray," 
 
 or, 
 "Plume in crest of knight ;" 
 
 or, 
 " Cloud in sombre gray," 
 
 seen 
 " Far arid low at night." 
 
 But when you combined the whole picture the golden 
 cloud islands in the emerald-green sea and the strag- 
 gling islands, which shone in their more solitary and bril- 
 liant and lighter beauty, higher up and further off, it was 
 then, indeed, you felt the calm emotion of the beautiful 
 gather through all your bosom, as you gazed in happy and 
 gentle and lonely musing. But scarcely an interval had 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 27 
 
 passed, when all this beautiful was illumined with intense- 
 ly more brilliant hues, as the full orb fell quite beneath 
 the horizon ; and the soft and mellow scene glowed in the 
 vivid colors of new floods of glory, thrown on this eme- 
 rald-green ocean of a thousand golden isles. You gazed 
 on it a happy and entranced beholder. The beautiful now 
 had changed to the sublime. And as you let your thoughts 
 lead on in their involuntary train of association, you mused 
 with admiration and worship, as you thought in silence on 
 the attributes of the Eternal, veiled in his pavilion of glory. 
 
 A moment since, one bell, first watch, a man fell from 
 the main-top-gallant yard. He was heard to cry, " O my 
 God !" as he passed the maintop ; and the next moment 
 he struck, head foremost, upon the first cutter, stowed 
 amidships alongside the lanch, and bounded into the gang- 
 way. The surgeon was called, and when he reached the 
 spot the poor tar had ceased to breathe. His skull was 
 fractured, and in a moment, without having spoken, after 
 striking the deck, he passed from full strength and active 
 life to the motionless corpse and the solemn stillness of 
 death. 
 
 The dangers and the toils of seamen are great and severe, 
 and thanks seldom greet them. I was on deck a few 
 moments after this melancholy incident had occurred. It 
 was dark, and the men were still furling sails. I stood by 
 the after hatchway, and heard more than one sigh from 
 those rough men as they passed me while still pulling upon 
 the halliards. A squall appeared to be gathering in the 
 west, and the men were furling the top-gallant-sails at the 
 time this unfortunate man fell. 
 
 After quarters, the succeeding morning, "all hands" 
 were piped " to bury the dead." The sailor, who fell last 
 night from the main-top-gallant yard, was to be given to 
 the deep. He had been laid out, as usual in such cases, 
 by his messmates, on the half-deck, with the flag of his 
 nation thrown over him. His messmates were his 
 watchers during the night, and now, at the hour of his 
 burial, they bore him to the leeward gangway of the 
 frigate. 
 
 The lanch and the first cutter, two large boats of the 
 ship, upon one of which he had first struck, are stowed 
 
28 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 amidships. Within these the clothes-bags of the crew 
 are generally piled, rising high above the gunwale of the 
 boats, and forming an elevation in the central part of the 
 ship. Upon these a large number of the crew had now 
 placed themselves, to witness the ceremony, new to many 
 of them, while others were standing upon the deck adja- 
 cent to the gangway, from which the relics of the depart- 
 ed tar were to be given to the deep. The officers stood 
 nearer the quarter-deck. In full view of these, nearly five 
 hundred gazers, rested the plank upon the upper step of the 
 
 fangway, on which the unconscious sleeper, sewed in his 
 ammock, with thirty- two pound shots at his feet, was 
 reposing, with the stars and stripes wreathing his rough 
 bier, as his honorable pall. Six of his messmates, as his 
 bearers, held the plank in its horizontal position, ready to 
 launch their brother of the ocean into the blue sea. And 
 nearest them, stood the Commodore. The chaplain ad- 
 vanced to his side, commencing the services, as all, uncov- 
 ered and with the silence of the dead, listened to the affect- 
 ing ritual : " Man that is born of a woman hath but a short 
 time to live, and is full of misery. He cometh up, and is 
 cut down like a flower ; he fleeth as it were a shadow, 
 and never continueth in one stay. In the midst of life we 
 are in death. Of whom may we seek for succour but of 
 thee, O Lord, who for our sins art justly displeased. Yet, 
 O Lord God most holy, O Lord most mighty, O holy and 
 most merciful Saviour, deliver us not into the bitter pains 
 of eternal death !" The chaplain advanced yet nearer to 
 the sad object that concentrated the solemn interest of the 
 moment, and continued : " Forasmuch as it has pleased 
 Almighty God, in his wise providence, to take out of this 
 world the soul of our deceased brother, we therefore com- 
 mit his body to the deep !" And in the breathless stillness 
 of the momentary pause, the solemn plunge was heard, 
 which spoke louder than the thunder of ordnance to the 
 heart, as the dead man was sinking to deeper and yet 
 deeper fathoms, until the eloquent silence was again broken 
 by the chaplain's voice, as he added, " Earth to earth, 
 ashes to ashes, dust to dust ; looking for the general re- 
 surrection in the last day, and the life of the world to come 
 through our Lord Jesus Christ ; at whose second coming 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 29 
 
 in glorious majesty to judge the world, the earth and the 
 sea shall give up their dead, and the corruptible bodies of 
 those who sleep in him shall be changed, and made like 
 unto his own glorious body ; according to the mighty 
 working whereby he is able to subdue all things unto 
 himself." 
 
 The services ended the crew were again piped to 
 their places and then we were on our course again, to 
 other lands. But no one would tell the story of him whom 
 we had now left to drift in the low deep, and among the 
 far-down currents of the recordless ocean. O ! it is a 
 solemn thing to die. It is a solemn thing to " lie down in 
 the dust," in the bosom of our mother earth ; but to sink 
 down, and down, and down in the deeper, darker, desolate 
 waters this thrills even the bosom of the way-worn and 
 brazen-featured mariner, as his thoughts for a moment are 
 arrested, and he follows his messmate to the deeps below ! 
 
 But, all willingly turn from the scene, and again we 
 stand on our way; and our ship seems little less uncon- 
 scious than ourselves, that one of her inmates has been 
 left, in mid-ocean his name to be no more spoken his 
 memory to be unwept his story for ever untold. But go 
 on thy bounding course, thou glorious courser, still go on ; 
 and 
 
 " God speed thee, good ship, on thy pathway of foam, 
 The sea is thy country, the billow thy home." 
 
 The night succeeding the burial, young H. (a boy in 
 years but a man in mind) was very singularly affected. 
 I heard him scream aloud. His hammock being near the 
 ward-room, two of the gentlemen rushed to quiet him. 
 For a moment, he seemed quite beside himself. " Don't 
 you know me," asked Mr. M'C. " Yes, sir," said young 
 H. " Yes, sir Mr. Mahogany ;" and then screamed yet 
 louder, "A man overboard throw me a rope throw me 
 a rope !" This little incident is not unworthy of narrating, 
 in connection with the burial of the morning, which must 
 have left such an impression on the mind of the youthful 
 midshipman, as to produce the singular phenomenon of 
 his dream. The lost sailor belonged to the Commodore's 
 
 3* 
 
80 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 gig ; and young H. generally went with the boat, and thus 
 particularly knew the man, as one of his boat's picked 
 crew. 
 
 A few moments after we had buried the dead, a brig 
 came down upon our starboard bow. We spoke her, and 
 learned that she was from Palermo, fifty days out, and 
 short of provisions. She lay to for our letter-bag, and 
 the Captain desired us to send him a barrel of beef, and a 
 bag of bread, if we could spare it. It was sent, to the 
 full amount the Captain desired, and his receipt taken, as 
 the only ackowledgment of the favor. 
 
 This incident shows the beautiful utility of our navy, as 
 the strong and encouraging arm of a protecting govern- 
 ment. It is one of the specific duties of our government 
 ships, to relieve, without charge, our merchant vessels. 
 A receipt, mentioning the name of the owners of the vessel 
 relieved, is taken, to prevent imposition. This receipt is 
 forwarded to the Department at Washington, and if the 
 vessels of the same owners should be found frequently 
 to have sought such aid, the Government would charge 
 them for the stores their vessels had received, otherwise 
 not. 
 
 Here, then, was one of our own countrymen on the 
 wide ocean, fifty days from land, with a three weeks' run 
 yet to make, and perhaps, by accident unforeseen, twice 
 that time, short of provisions and out of bread. Our noble 
 frigate, standing on her course, is espied by the distressed 
 merchantman, who has been to distant lands and tempted 
 perilous seas for our luxury and pleasure. With glowing 
 feelings he sees the distant object, first looming to his view, 
 her royals only seen in the horizon, rising higher and 
 higher, until top-gallant-sails and top-sails and courses ap- 
 pear ; and at last, a noble ship, with all her sails set, comes 
 nearer and nearer ; when, at last, she is made out to be 
 one of our own majestic frigates, powerful to defend, 
 courteous to compliment, generous to relieve. The mer- 
 chantman gazes with renewed pride on the gallant war- 
 ship, and feels that there is majesty, might, and magna- 
 nimity in the arm that protects him ; and with still greater 
 love, he thinks on the land of his home. 
 
 Such, doubtless, were the feelings of the trader, whom 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 31 
 
 we met and relieved. He was unbounded in his enthu- 
 siasm, when speaking of the beauty of our frigate, as he 
 gazed upon her, while the two vessels were aback, and 
 for a moment resting on their different ways, for the pur- 
 poses of friendship and mercy. The Captain was but 
 one of the hardy men who fill the seas from the east, but 
 he could see, and could feel the beauties and sublimities 
 of the scene, and go on his way, yet more and more lov- 
 ing his country and western home. 
 
 This morning, May 26th, a large ship loomed up in 
 the horizon, at the northwest of us ; and ere long, our sus- 
 picions were confirmed. It proved to be the John Adarns, 
 our consort, who parted with us some tw r o weeks since ; 
 and now she has come down, in answer to our signals, 
 and taken her former position on our larboard quarter. 
 The incident is a beautiful illustration of the accuracy of 
 nautical science. Here we again meet on the ocean, after 
 having been lost to each other for fourteen days, and just 
 at the moment when we are expecting to make the high 
 lands of Madeira. 
 
 At the present hour it is squally, and we are now 
 shortening sail, and probably shall not venture to near 
 the land, after dark, unless we make it before sunset. 
 The sea, at this moment, is high, and a sail, not far off, 
 to the windward of us, standing on an opposite course to 
 ourselves, is taking in her royals and reefing. We are 
 rolling more than we have before done since we weighed 
 our anchors in Hampton Roads, twenty days since. We 
 hope to lie at moorings, in Funchal Bay, to-morrow ; and 
 then, beautiful Madeira will be the agreeable object of 
 our visit and observation, after a passage of twenty-one 
 days. 
 
 Off the High Peaks of Madeira, May 26th, P. M. 
 
 Never did the call to quarters roll its beat more sweetly 
 through our ship, than at this soft hour of evening. I 
 have been gazing at the wedge-shaped bluff of the west 
 end of the island of Madeira, now wrapped in fog, which, 
 however, at this moment, is lifting sufficiently for the 
 curved outline of the island to trace itself visibly on the 
 misty back-ground of the horizon. And there it stands, 
 
32 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the island of Madeira, famed and far-known, in mid- 
 ocean, raising its huge and sable elevations, at this hour, 
 like some dark monster of the deep, in his unconcern and 
 deep repose ; with its far-up and shaded sides lost in the 
 mists, which now wreath their mystic sheet around its 
 elevated peaks. 
 
 As we glide nearer in towards its abrupt shores and 
 along its deep-green sides, we discover here and there a 
 hamlet ; while far above the mists, which curl around 
 the highest acclivities, and sail along the midway eleva- 
 tions, the denser clouds are seen to roll back, and leave 
 to our view a deep-blue sky, such as they say arches 
 above the land of Italy. 
 
 The John Adams is standing in behind us. The blue 
 deep, far out, is restless, and the heavy swell heaves the 
 careening ships at this moment, more furiously than at 
 any other time since we have been coursing our way to 
 this island of vines and flowers. Long slopes of verdure, 
 and deep and green ravines, reach our view as we gaze ; 
 and the imagination easily embowers the hill-sides in 
 orange groves, and citron trees, and pomegranates, and 
 bananas, and figs, and the trellised grape. But more in 
 description when we shall have gained a nearer view, on 
 a fairer evening and a brighter day. 
 
 " All hands to reef topsails, ahoy !" sounds through the 
 ship. It is deemed too late for us to run into the bay of 
 Funchal, the capital of Madeira ; and the purpose of the 
 Commodore is, to stand off and on, under reefed topsails, 
 during the night, and to anchor in Funchal bay early in 
 the morning. 
 
 The island now lies some four miles in the distance. 
 The sun has just gone down ; and the dark island, 
 wreathed in its vapor-sheet, exhibits an interesting scene 
 of the mystic and the sublime. The outlines of the dark 
 pile are distinctly marked on the horizon, rising some 
 eight thousand feet from the bosom of the deep, and now 
 crowned with masses of cumuli-clouds, with their round 
 caps tinged with the purest pink and darker crimson, as 
 the rays of the fallen sun send far up, in their slant, their 
 beams in profusion and glory ; while the lower layers of 
 the clouds, on which these illumined cones are resting, 
 

 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 33 
 
 sleep in their solemn gray and dun. At the southwest of 
 us, the lashed sea is still raging ; but the clouds above its 
 dark bosom rest peacefully in their hundred evening hues, 
 which the sun, in atonement for his day's absence, now 
 loans to these airy voyagers. 
 
 But, it was as we tacked ships, to stand off from the 
 land, amid this exhibition of the mystic in our north, and 
 beauty in our west, that an omen gleamed above us, fair 
 and bright as the one which shone in the heavens, on the 
 eve of our departure from our first anchorage-ground, in 
 our western land. Directly above our main, in the zenith 
 of his glory, 
 
 " The bright Arcturus, fairest of the stars," 
 
 looked benignantly from out his azure hall upon us. The 
 sky, over our heads, was blue, deep, and clear ; and no 
 other brilliant was seen in the high heavens ; while the 
 moon, in her path of peerless loveliness, this night, was 
 throwing the soft beams of her first quarter over our 
 right shoulders. The air was balmy to the cheek ; and 
 we were happy as we paced the deck, and talked of 
 things associated with the Madeiras, and friends, and 
 home. 
 
34 
 
 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 35 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 Madeira. Funchal, capital of Madeira. Quintas. Fortresses. Santa 
 Clara convent. Shrubbery and vines. Olden associations. The influ- 
 ence of beautiful nature. Visit to the shore. Breakfast with the Amer- 
 ican Consul. Invitation to visit Santa Clara convent. Ride to the Nos- 
 sa Senhora do Monte, or the Church of our Lady of the Mount. Visit 
 Mr. Blandy's Quinta. Avenues of geraniums and roses. View from 
 the terrace-house. Miracles of our Lady of the Mount. Portuguese 
 seamen pledge their top-sail to this patron saint to propitiate her favor in 
 danger. Priest and his present of eggs. The Catholic system. A pile 
 of human bones. Portuguese bury in their churches. New cemetery. 
 Visit to Santa Clara convent. English burial ground. Portuguese fune- 
 ral. The daughter of the deceased visiting England. Ride to the Cur- 
 ral. Scenes on the road. Peasantry. The grounds of Count Carvalhal. 
 Ramble through the grounds of Palmyra. Mr. and Miss O. Miss O.'s 
 opinion of Abbot's Works. The Til. Moving by torch-light through 
 the streets at night. Palanquin. Easy manners of the Portuguese. Eng- 
 lish yatch commanded by a lady. Legend of the Madeiras. Cultiva- 
 tion of the grape and process of making wine. Tinto. Malmsey. Quan- 
 tity of wine produced. Last eve on shore, and good-night to Madeira. 
 
 WE have come to anchor, in full view of one of na- 
 ture's most beautiful landscapes. Funchal, the capital 
 of Madeira, is about two miles from our frigate ; and the 
 southern exposure of the island lies, in its enchantment, 
 before us. Think of a fairy isle, raising its high peaks 
 abruptly 8,000 feet above the bosom of the blue deep, 
 and tracing its waved outline indistinctly among the mys- 
 tic and dark clouds, which hang, like spirit-shapes, on its 
 high and misty cones ; while, everywhere else, around 
 and further yet above the cloud-capt peaks, the sky is blue 
 and clear ; and the soft breeze and the mimic gale from 
 the sea strike balmy, like an eastern atmosphere, upon 
 the cheek. And then, think of the elevated acclivities, 
 and deep ravine, broken into thousand crests, throwing 
 their every-shaped shadows over their own mountainous 
 and cragged and unique landscape ; and every peak, and 
 every slope, and every ravine, covered with vineyard 
 and garden, and ever-green tree and shrub and flower, 
 varying from the palest gold of harvest time to the deep- 
 est and prevailing verdure of the freshest meadow ; and 
 then the villas, or country residences of the English mer- 
 
00 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 chants and the wealthier Portuguese, which are here 
 called quintas, of all dimensions, with red-tiled tops, and 
 piazza and balcony and corridors for promenade and 
 look-outs, and trellised terraces for the embowering vines ; 
 and then, the antique cathedral and the ancient fortress, 
 and the sacred convent ; and then, the mountain, capped 
 with an eternal cloud, and the far-surrounding ocean, 
 in eternal blue, and you will have some of the outlines, 
 which go to make up one of the most glowing pictures 
 of the beautiful I ever saw. It is almost perfect as a 
 specimen of rural scenery of its kind. It only needs a 
 few castles on some of the high peaks of the elevated 
 positions, to render it quite so. 
 
 The houses of Funchal rise one above the other, from 
 the edge of the sea, which tumbles its breakers, inces- 
 santly upon the narrow and dark-pebbled beach. The 
 Loo fort is seen on the right of the city, constructed on 
 the top of a rectangular rock of basalt, encrusted with 
 the outer honey-comb layer of lava ; and rises from out 
 the sea a few yards from the main beach. 
 
 Another fortress is situated near the sea, and is still 
 garrisoned. Between the two lie the pile of buildings, 
 occupied by the Franciscan monks before their expulsion 
 from the island, but now possessed as barracks for the 
 Governor's guards. Further up, the convent of Santa 
 Clara, with its dusky and rectangular walls, appears above 
 city spire and city dwellings. Ascending still higher the 
 steep acclivity, rising like an amphitheatre before you, 
 the beautiful quintas of the English merchants and the 
 Portuguese, are seen, every way, studding the elevated 
 points, and lay before the enchanted eye embowered in 
 nature's freshest green, amid shrubs, and orange trees, 
 and figs, and citrons, and bananas, the coffee tree, and 
 the pomegranate ; with every other point, unoccupied by 
 shrub and tree, covered with spacious areas of trellised 
 vines, in their richest foliage, the whole together exhibit- 
 ing one blended scene of rural loveliness, too distant to 
 enable one to particularize the different kind of shrub, and 
 tree, and flower, but delighting the beholder with the 
 blended beauties of one of nature's own amphitheatres, 
 where she has poured out, with the munificence of her 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 37 
 
 tropical hand, the gorgeous magnificence of a perennial 
 green-house. And still above ail this beauty of vine, and 
 shrub, and tree, and folia of fig and orange and pomegran- 
 ate, and the beautiful quintas, and the imposing turret, 
 and fortress, and convent, stands in lovely and bold re- 
 lief, the Nossa Senhora do Monte, or the Church of our 
 Lady of the Mount. It is the highest building seen, and 
 rivets the eye of the stranger. Its proportions are in 
 keeping, and its two turrets, rising on either side of the 
 front, give the picturesque edifice the loveliest appear- 
 ance, as it rests, in its quiet repose, and high-up retire- 
 ment. Its white walls are beautifully relieved by one 
 extended curtain of green, which rises still further 
 above its white walls to meet the clouds in their ever un- 
 dulating volumes. And from the commanding front of 
 this solitary building, you gaze on all this beauty below, 
 in its blended grandeur and loveliness ; on the vast ocean, 
 from whose blue bosom the green isle awakes ; and now 
 upon our own sleeping war-ships, as they ride, in their 
 security and distance, like mimic models of their own 
 beautiful reality, on the edge of the broad expanse of the 
 boundless main. But still further up from the nestling 
 place of our Lady of the Mount, the green mountain 
 steeps are coated in verdant shrub and tear grass, and 
 flowering broom, and heath, and sweet balm, until the 
 veil of the dark spirit of the mountain-heights, forbids 
 the eye to penetrate her loftier and clouded home. Sure- 
 ly the Fairy-Queen poet dreamed not of a lovlier scene 
 than this, wherever his vision was bearing him in the fol- 
 lowing lines : 
 
 It was a chosen spot of blooming land, 
 
 Amongst wide waves, set like a little nest, 
 As if it had by nature's cunning hand 
 
 Been choicely picked out from all the rest, 
 
 And laid forth as example of the best. 
 No daintie herb, or flower, that glows on ground, 
 
 No arboreth with painted blossoms drest, 
 And smiling sweet, but there it might be found, 
 To bud out fair, and her sweet fragrance throw around. 
 
 And all this I gaze upon, as I stand, lost in delightful 
 4 
 
38 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 reverie, on the deck of our own beautiful Columbia, sleep- 
 ing calmly, and confident in her own prowess, on these 
 waters, in full view of this enchanting landscape. And 
 the eye tires not, as one's thoughts, in connection with the 
 olden story of this sunny isle and summer beauty, come 
 over the memory, in recollected legend or truer history. 
 Here has been revolution on revolution. Here the prince 
 to-day has been embarked, in an hour and in secret, for 
 his distant exile. And here the priest has ridden, in his 
 ghostly power, and with undisputed dictate, a supersti- 
 tious and submissive people ; and again, the people have 
 aroused to a sense of their degradation and the imposi- 
 tion of the Franciscan hoards, and expelled them from 
 their isle. And here the nun, for years the inmate of the 
 cloister, and doomed no more to look abroad upon the 
 world, save through a double grating or convent lattice, 
 in the tide of revolutions has been set free, and walked 
 again in liberty and light. But again the restrictions are 
 placed upon her, and she is re-enclosed within the halls 
 of her ancient home. 
 
 I indulged myself, for hours, in delightful contemplation 
 of the beautiful scene before me, as seen from the quarter 
 deck of our frigate. Nothing could more calmly sooth 
 the heart, whatever may have been its musings of sad- 
 ness or of joy, in retracing the past, or in sorrowful or 
 happy anticipation of the future. There are some scenes 
 which we love to treasure among the fadeless things, in 
 the arcana of our choicest memories, to which we recur, 
 when things around, and men more than things, become 
 insipid. I felt assured that the scene before me was one 
 of these. I find myself daily more and more susceptible 
 to the influence of beautiful nature ; while she often com- 
 munes with me, as one who has sympathies kindred to 
 my own. She never upbraids the confiding heart she 
 never looks with cold suspicion she has about her 
 nothing that is mean, or low, or unrefined ; but hers is 
 an open brow a warm, and pure, and noble heart and 
 she has thoughts that are holier than earth elsewhere 
 knows, which she will give, with generous and cordial 
 liberality, to that spirit, which lets the eye rest on her 
 mellowed beauties, with a melting and gushing heart. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 39 
 
 Commend me then to her loveliness and proffered sym- 
 pathies, when the heart feels alone, in its deep and young 
 desolation. 
 
 I had fixed the lovely picture of Madeira's green ac- 
 clivities in my mind, and dwelled upon it with increased 
 and increasing emotion and delight. And thus I felt pre- 
 pared for my first visit on shore, while I only feared that 
 a nearer view might dissipate the fairy vision, which lay 
 so willingly and distinct among those remembrances 
 which fail not. Our time at the island would be short, 
 and much, it was said, existed on shore to interest the 
 stranger, and was worthy of his observation. I went early 
 the morning succeeding our arrival, and breakfasted, by 
 invitation, with the American consul. This gentleman, 
 ever attentive to the officers of the ship, introduced me 
 to Mr. B., who is said to have large possessions on the 
 island, and to whose courteous and gentlemanly manners 
 I am happy here to bear testimony, in the remembrance 
 of our agreeable visit to Madeira. By Mr. B. I was ac- 
 companied to the Reading Rooms ; and afterwards, 
 through his kindness, was introduced to another of the 
 English residents, who is supposed to have considerable 
 influence with the Catholic inhabitants of the island. 
 Mr. P., the name of this gentleman, had received an in- 
 vitation to dine with the Vicar-General, or Bishop of Ma- 
 deira, at Santa Clara Convent, where the Bishop was to 
 visit, during the day. Mr. P. had induced the vicar to 
 allow him, on this occasion, to introduce some of his 
 friends into the convent, and politely extended his invita- 
 tion to myself. Four o'clock in the afternoon was the 
 hour appointed for our introduction into the enclosures 
 within the convent walls. 
 
 In the mean time I took a ride to the church, high up 
 on the green slant, previously alluded to as Nossa Sen- 
 hora do Monte, our Lady of the Mount. We procured 
 our horses and attendants. Every thing around us ap- 
 peared unique, and the mode of our conveyance was 
 quite in character with our circumstances. The road to 
 the mount church, in its ascent of the mountain, is in- 
 credibly steep, and as far as the Nossa Senhora do Monte is 
 paved with the blue pebbles of the beach, and basalt from 
 
40 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the mountain. The angle of ascent is frequently twenty 
 degrees. We mounted our horses, and at our side stood 
 our burroqueros, or foot-boys, in their picturesque costume 
 of the island peasantry, and each with his wooden staff, 
 six or seven feet in length. " Nossa Senhora do Monte," 
 we said, and dashed oft' in full spring as the burroquero 
 swept his staff against the flanks of the horse, and seized 
 the animal by the tail, to be borne along in company 
 with the cavalcade ; and every now and then, again 
 riving the sides of the horse, and particularly at the steep- 
 est parts of the road, up which fearful acclivities the horses 
 sprung in full canter, with their hoofs clattering over the 
 paved way, with the riders upon their backs and the at- 
 tendants at their tails. I suffered my companions to 
 advance, while I held in my spirited horse, and to my un- 
 bounded amusement, contemplated the comical exhibition 
 of the riders in full speed before me, with their burro- 
 queros at their horses' tails, all on the full jump, ascending 
 the fearful steeps which, in our own land, would have 
 been deemed almost, if not quite, inaccessible. While we 
 thus rushed up the aslant, the clatter of our horses' hoofs 
 often drew the Portuguese brunet to the terraces, ever 
 above us, as the quintas, with their elevated walls and 
 embowered terraces, lined our narrow way, two thirds 
 the distance to the Church of the Mount. Over these 
 walls, in truant festoons falling from the terrace, and filling 
 every crevice in the walls, hung the luxuriant geraniums 
 and multifloras, and rose of every kind, and other flowers, 
 and vines in profusion, trailing down their branches and 
 making our ascending way a path of blossom, and per- 
 fume, and flowery beauty. 
 
 When we had reached some distance up the mountain 
 ascent, with quintas on each side of the narrow way, we 
 paused at the country seat of Mr. Blandy, who had in- 
 vited me, during the morning, to visit his quinta, as I rode 
 to the mount. 
 
 We turned in from the road to the left, through a gate- 
 way, which opened into his grounds, and found ourselves 
 at once among winding avenues of geraniums, and roses, 
 and other flowering shrubs, which, in America, are cher- 
 ished as choice plants, in flower-pots, and preserved in 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 41 
 
 green-houses. It is this particularity which delights and 
 surprises the eye. As we turned to the left, we pursued 
 one of these hedged avenues of geraniums, which I took 
 to be of that beautiful species called the Princess Caro- 
 line, bearing a large flower, and here, in its luxuriance, 
 growing five feet high, and inlocking its branches so as 
 to form a thick hedge on either side of the pathway. 
 The avenue extended along the high terrace, overlooking 
 the roadside, until it reached the front part of the garden, 
 at which point it commanded the city and harbor and the 
 blended beauties of the glowing scene below. Owing to 
 the steep ascent of the mountain, it becomes necessary 
 to raise high walls for gaining a level for the buildings, 
 and the pleasure grounds around them. The terraces 
 thus formed are numerous, in different parts of the grounds 
 of the quintas, forming levels of made soil for flower- 
 enamelled paths, and trellises for the vine, and for fruit- 
 trees and ornamental shrubs, which nature here, with the 
 soil of volcanic ruins, and an atmosphere ever revivifying 
 to produce and sustain in greatest perfection, has lavished, 
 with a luxuriant hand, on this green isle of the sea. We 
 walked through the grounds, every avenue being lined 
 either with geraniums or roses, or other flowering shrubs. 
 The japonica was seen to rise from ten to fifteen feet in 
 height, and spread in like proportion the hyderanger, in 
 its luxuriance, spreading its branches to a circumference 
 of twenty to thirty feet. All is luxuriance. We marked 
 the coffee tree, now beginning to be successfully cultiva- 
 ted in the island the pomegranate, decked with its scarlet 
 blossoms the fig. in its green luxuriance the banana, 
 raising high its long and fan-like leaves. A hundred or- 
 namental flowering trees, high and spreading, decked the 
 grounds ; and in this rich season of flowers, one tree, of 
 forest height, attracted and held my admiration. It was 
 wreathed in multifloras, so as to exhibit one complete 
 layer of these clustered roses over every part of the 
 stem and boughs of the tree, exhibiting a rose tower in 
 its magnificence and beauty. 
 
 The walk which we first entered extended along the 
 terrace, which rose high above the road, and terminated 
 abruptly in a rectangular summer-house on the terrace, 
 4* 
 
42 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 From this, one contemplates the beauties of the scene be- 
 fore and beneath him, with the ranges of the green hills 
 on either side, and the vineyards, and embowered houses, 
 together with the blue bosom of the harbor, dotted by 
 the vessels of varied and fairy forms, that repose upon its 
 surface, or are seen sailing in the offing. 
 
 Here I could have lingered, and mused, and thought, 
 delighted, on crowding subjects, which this fair isle of the 
 Madeiras awakes, and on dearer objects of the land of 
 my home. But we were yet to visit the Nossa Senhora 
 do Monte, and return to the city in time to meet our en- 
 gagement at four o'clock, that we might not lose the pleas- 
 ure of our contemplated visit to the convent of Santa 
 Clara. We therefore remounted our horses, and left this 
 lovely quinta for the Church of the Mount, with a secret 
 purpose of again threading the beautiful avenues of Mr. 
 B.'s country seat, which, to-day, was unoccupied by his 
 family. 
 
 It will strike the visitor to the Madeiras as a peculiarity, 
 that the country residences here are not found by riding 
 some distance into the interior. On the contrary, all the 
 advantages of country air, and of an escape from the heat 
 of city- walls, is secured by ascending the heights of the 
 mountain, until the temperature desired is gained. Thus 
 a delightful and salubrious atmosphere is found by a half 
 hour's climbing up the steep roads, to those beautiful 
 eyries, where lovers might nestle in their ever-green bow- 
 ers and flower-enamelled paths; and philosophers become 
 poets ; and poets philosophize and be happy. The pro- 
 prietors of these quintas, while residing in the city, during 
 the cooler parts of the seasons, not unfrequently retire to 
 their mountain seats, when they would invite a party of 
 their friends to partake of the sociability of their free and 
 elegant hospitality, their furthest seats being within a 
 half hour's ride from the points of their business and city 
 houses. 
 
 When we had ascended still higher up, to reach the 
 Church of the Mount, we alighted at a flight of steps lead- 
 ing to the artificial level, on which the edifice of the church 
 of Our Lady is situated. We found a number of the 
 younger officers of the Columbia already at the church, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 43 
 
 but having satisfied their curiosity, were soon on their de- 
 scent of the mountain. 
 
 The sexton was ready to exhibit every thing which 
 could gratify our observation or interest our curiosity. 
 
 Our Lady of the Mount is represented by a small figure 
 about two feet in height ; and as the patron saint of the 
 island, she is preserved with great care within a glass case 
 upon the principal altar of the church. She is decorated 
 with a wax wig and tinselled robes ; and formerly dis- 
 played about her person chains of gold, and gems yet 
 more precious, as gifts of her devotees. The revolution 
 of time and sentiment has left her sanctuary, as well as 
 herself, with only imitations of what once was. 
 
 We were unable, from personal observation, to know 
 how sacredly this saint of the island is now venerated, but 
 many stories are related, or rather, observed scenes are 
 recorded, to show the high esteem with which the Nossa 
 Senhora of the mount has been held. And the supersti- 
 tions of the lower orders at least, are slow to be removed 
 from their credulous minds ; nor are they easily restrain- 
 ed from ceremonies long cherished and practised in their 
 religious devotions. 
 
 In 1803, owing to the profusion of rain from the con- 
 densation of the clouds upon the mountains, the swelling 
 streams which rush down the ravines almost flooded the 
 city, so as to destroy a large number of houses, to the 
 sacrifice of many lives. This period of inundation from 
 the mountains, is even now spoken of, almost as a dating 
 epoch. " Such a thing occurred before or since the flood," 
 meaning the inundation of 1803. After this devastation 
 of waters had ceased, the image of this patron saint was 
 conveyed, in solemn procession, from her home of the 
 mount to the city, where the greatest pomp and ceremony 
 attended her ; the clergy, and the military, and the civil 
 authorities appearing in their gaudiest exhibition, with the 
 impression that her presence could stay any succeeding 
 inundation. After the public ceremonies and processions 
 of the streets were over, and due honors paid, the Lady 
 Patroness was placed for some months on the altar of the 
 cathedral in the city ; but afterwards she was returned to 
 her own altar at her proper mountain home, with demon- 
 
44 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 strations of respect and veneration, as the church of the 
 mount was built, according to the legend of the island, on 
 the spot where the saint was originally found, soon after 
 the first discovery of the island. 
 
 One of her well-accredited miracles (if we believe the 
 credulous testimony of her attached devotees) will suffice 
 to be narrated here, as a specimen of the many and extra- 
 ordinary performances of our Lady of the Mount. The 
 incident occurred during the American revolutionary war, 
 when a great and threatening scarcity prevailed at the 
 island of Madeira, in consequence of the British cruisers 
 preventing the American vessels from conveying to the 
 island the usual supply of bread-stuff. In this state of dis- 
 tress, supplication was made to the Lady of the Mount, 
 that her influence might be secured, and by her interces- 
 sion that the calamity might be removed, and the general 
 distress be relieved. This ceremony was attended by a 
 public procession, and accompanied by various devotional 
 rites. At daybreak on the following morning, it is said, 
 a ship appeared in the offing, which afterwards was found 
 to be laden with wheat, from Portugal. The inhabitants 
 on repairing to the mount church, found the lady-saint's 
 clothes dripping wet with salt-water, which was interpret- 
 ed by the priests to be conclusive evidence that the patron- 
 ess had taken a trip to sea during the night, to hasten 
 the vessel which had so unexpectedly been descried in the 
 offing. The crew of the vessel, on their reaching land, 
 were greatly astonished when the circumstances of the 
 miracle were told them ; and, on recollection, it occurred 
 to them that they had been becalmed some distance off 
 the island just at sunset, the preceding evening, when they 
 saw something white rising from the waves, which hover- 
 ed about the vessel, and ere long they were impelled to 
 Funchal. This narrative of the crew confirmed the mi- 
 racle ; and the miraculous interference of the Lady of the 
 Mount, on this occasion, it is said, remains an article in 
 the faith of the devoted worshippers at the altar of the 
 Nossa Senhora do Monte, until the present time. 
 
 There is a custom among the Portuguese seamen, in 
 case of danger or difficulties at sea, to devote, with a solemn 
 vow, their topsail, or some other article, to the Lady of 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 45 
 
 the Mount. On their reaching their home in safety, they 
 go in procession to her altar, bearing their devoted canvass, 
 but they redeem the trophy, by paying, in money, the 
 amount of its value, as affixed by the priest. 
 
 But the glory and the power of this patron saint, I 
 should judge, when contrasting her present appearance 
 with her affirmed splendor of other days, has passed, in 
 no inconsiderable degree, if not for ever, away, while the 
 ceremonies and the public processions yet continue. And 
 the peasantry are greatly fond of these festivals and public 
 processions. They gather from their mountain recesses 
 on the occasion, and give themselves to the enjoyment of 
 the holidays. We regretted that we should leave the island 
 on Saturday evening, which would prevent us from wit- 
 nessing the various ceremonies of one of their most inter- 
 esting seasons, the succeeding Sunday being Whit-Sunday. 
 On Saturday evening, however, we saw, from the frigate, 
 the bonfires on many a peak, and the church of the mount 
 sent forth the brilliant rays of her taper-lights far over the 
 blue deep, from her high and beautiful eminence. 
 
 We indulged ourselves by walking through the main 
 edifice and the various rooms, where the laced robes of 
 the priests are kept, some of which had been rich in their 
 day, and are still gaudy and imposing to the peasant's eye, 
 though thread-worn to the curious. The pictures were 
 generally indifferently executed, some of them even cari- 
 catures. I was struck with one, however, in connection 
 with an anecdote narrated at the time, by the gentleman 
 who accompanied me to the mount. This painting repre- 
 sented the presentation of eggs, with various other things, 
 to the infant Saviour, who was resting in the lap of his 
 virgin mother ; certainly no impolitic design to encourage 
 the donations from the peasantry to the Franciscans, who, 
 by the tenets of their order, possess no property, save a 
 place to lodge in, while they live on the gifts of the people. 
 Before the expulsion of the Franciscans, the scene of a 
 friar with his bag, collecting eggs and bread and other 
 eatables, was a common and hourly scene, and met with 
 encouragement from their devoted admirers. And as we 
 stood before the picture, my friend instanced a case of one 
 of the priests, who, when delivering his discourse, spoke to 
 
46 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the people in the following frank language : " My flock, 
 you may make me presents if you choose, or not, as it 
 may please you ; but if you make me presents, no hum- 
 bugs, if you please ; bring me no rotten eggs : good ones, 
 if any thing." While the Franciscans have been expelled 
 from their ancient home on the island, a small number of 
 priests of the college have been retained ; and the nuns 
 still possess their enclosures, with the rents derived from 
 the convent grounds, and entails. The salaries of the 
 priests, however, are less than formerly ; and the bishop 
 now receives only $2000, while his former income amount- 
 ed to 4000 with perquisites, which, together, often reach- 
 ed the sum of twenty thousand dollars and upwards. So 
 passes the glory of the popish world, in her olden pos- 
 sessions. 
 
 I have no heart to upbraid the Roman Catholic. It is 
 always an emotion of solemn pity, that comes over me, 
 when I pace their dismantled cathedrals, and decaying 
 halls, or listen to their venerated, but superstitious, and, as 
 a Protestant, I think, very often, puerile worship. But, I 
 well know that the heart is the secret place which the eye 
 of Omnipotence penetrates, and I firmly believe he often 
 finds in the Catholic worshipper great sincerity. But, I 
 also hold, that the whole system of the Roman Catholic 
 rituals, and monkish celibacy, and many worse than fool- 
 ish accompaniments of their worship, tend to great cor- 
 ruption in a community purely Roman Catholic, and to the 
 great perversion of the simple and true worship of the 
 Deity. It is in vain for the advocates of Papacy to deny 
 the corruptions which have existed, or the severities which 
 have sprung from a system which has had its triumphs, 
 and in the advance of intelligence and purer systems, we 
 think, must have its downfall. Spain and Portugal, and 
 their dependencies, give a story which has been recorded 
 on the page of history with a pen of blood. And O ! how 
 devoted have millions been, in the execution of the mis- 
 guided plans of infuriated zealots, and in the support of 
 erroneous tenets ! But the age in which crime, in the sup- 
 port of the church, was deemed a virtue, and intolerance 
 believed to be furthering the cause of the cross, existed 
 when men had not learned the correct principles of Chris- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 47 
 
 tian ethics, and the world deemed that their several reli- 
 gions were to be propagated even at the point of the 
 sword. If our charities were a little more enlightened by 
 a knowledge of the spirit of ages past, and we judged of 
 the actions of men in connection with the spirit which 
 ruled the times in which they existed, we should be more 
 lenient in our estimate of their motives when criticising 
 their actions. And we should regret rather than upbraid, 
 when we perceive that the circumstances of the period 
 in which they lived, did not embrace, in its elements of 
 religion, a philosophy, so far as systems were concerned, 
 which inculcated mutual forbearance, and heaven-born 
 charity. Toleration, either by Catholic or Protestant, 
 was unknown until the seventeenth century. And the 
 Catholics will have to live through years yet onward, be- 
 fore they will come to appreciate the errors of their sys- 
 tem, and the unscriptural and intolerant inculcations of 
 their creed. But the ball of revolution has been set in 
 motion. The power of the Papal hierarchy has been pa- 
 ralyzed by the advance of more enlightened public senti- 
 ment, and truer philosophy than that of earlier ages. It 
 must still go on. We see already the mouldering relics 
 of the ancient system. And while we walk through her 
 antique aisles, of cathedral, and abbey, and convent, we 
 rejoice in the assurance that there is a breaking up of olden 
 foundations, for the laying of a basis of a more beautiful 
 superstructure in morals. Yet as we reflect on the past 
 and the present, we pity we sigh we hope, while a 
 cloud yet veils the onward prospect, as it looms up, how 
 darkly ! in the coming future. 
 
 We had gone through the building, no way remarkable 
 for its superstructure, but a convenient edifice, and once, 
 doubtless, imposing in its decorations. But now it exhibits 
 little else than gilded altars and an occasional silver cross, 
 defaced paintings, and two indifferent and even offensive 
 statues, as they are robed in their canonicals. 
 
 My friend asked our cicerone to show us the place 
 where he deposited the bones, when they were taken from 
 the common vault. We passed over the pavements, which 
 form the great terrace of the church, and reached a door 
 in a wall which rises some feet on the outer edge of the 
 
48 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 level on which the church stands. The sexton applied 
 his key, and the door opened, when a sight addressed the 
 eye, which would have pained a less susceptible heart 
 than my own. A pile of human bones lay beneath us, 
 within an unwalled rectangular space ; and as my eye ran 
 over the mass, I counted fifty-one skulls. Probably in the 
 same pile, there were thousands, with their attendant skel- 
 etons, which it would have taken a number of men a num- 
 ber of days to remove. 
 
 It is the custom of the Portuguese to bury the dead in 
 their churches. They inter the bodies within the same 
 vault, or rather they dig the grave for the body which is 
 to be interred, among the bones and dust of those who 
 have already been buried. That the body may be more 
 rapidly consumed, they mingle quicklime with the earth 
 that covers the inhumed relics. The earth of the conse- 
 crated enclosure is deemed holy ground. But where the 
 soil is so shallow as in most places on the island, and par- 
 ticularly at the point where the church of the mount is 
 located, the excavation can be but a few feet deep, and 
 extending but a few feet in width. And within this place 
 the peasantry of the surrounding situations are interred. 
 But seldom habituated to think for themselves, and ever 
 ready to believe in the miraculous, they dream not that 
 the bones of their forefathers rest not where they are 
 consigning their own contemporary friends, and where, 
 ere long, they hope they may themselves be interred. 
 They, nevertheless, do not rest there. At intervals the 
 bones of the mingled bodies are removed, to make room 
 for the ever unanswered demands of the stern arbiter, 
 whom nothing will propitiate whose heart nothing will 
 make relent. And while this necessity exists for the re- 
 moval of the bones of the bodies which are here buried, 
 one upon the other, it yet seemed to me to be an unjustifi- 
 able imposition, if it be one, that the mass of the people 
 should be ignorant of the disinhuming of the relics of the 
 dead, while they dream that they are mouldering where 
 they hope that they themselves, when they shall be called 
 hence, shall also moulder, in kindred dust, within the bosom 
 of their own and popular patron saint, the Nossa Senhora 
 do Monte. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 49 
 
 It is a laudable object of the city authority, at the pre- 
 sent moment, to encourage among the Portuguese the 
 burial of the dead in an open ground. They are now 
 preparing a pere la chaise on the bank of the west side 
 of the city, near the water, commanding a lovely view of 
 the sea. It must eventually become popular, even with 
 the Portuguese, as a place for burial. As yet, however, 
 it is unfinished, though tastefully inwalled ; and the ground 
 is nearly prepared. The portal entrance is very respect- 
 able, and the whole, altogether, a worthy and commend- 
 able project. 
 
 We now took our last view of the lovely scene, pre- 
 sented from the front terrace of the Church of the Mount. 
 The city was far, far down ; and between the city and 
 ourselves, on the right and on the left, slept the lovely 
 quintas, embowered in their luxuriance of vine and flowers, 
 and fruit-trees, and ornamental shrubbery, with the rip- 
 pling streams from the mountains always passing through 
 the premises to water the grounds at the pleasure of the 
 proprietors, or to replenish their ponds or jets of water. 
 And then, beyond quinta, and city, and fortress, and shore, 
 our eye, for a moment, lingered on our own sea-home 
 dwellings, which had brought us safely from the lands of 
 our western homes ; and we blessed them for their stanch 
 properties, and admired them for their beautiful propor- 
 tions, and felt willing again to trust us to the safety of their 
 keeping. But we could linger no longer, and we remount- 
 ed our horses and dashed down the steep declivities, with 
 the velocity with which we had ascended. And yet our 
 horses tripped not ; and what elsewhere would have seem- 
 ed inevitable destruction, here, from the confidence we had 
 in the surefooted beasts, was regarded but pleasing excite- 
 ment, as we dared the steep and fearful slant, at the speed 
 of a full trot. 
 
 VISIT TO SANTA CLARA CONVENT. 
 
 The convents of Madeira, in connection with other ob- 
 jects of interest, had been the subject of frequent conver- 
 sation, during our passage to the island. One of the in- 
 mates of Santa Clara Convent, too, from romantic incident 
 
 5 
 
50 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 being associated with her involuntary entrance within the 
 convent-walls, and also her acknowledged beauty and 
 strikingly interesting manners, had elicited the curiosity 
 of the stranger. An English bard had sung her praises, 
 and others alluded to her interest of person, and romantic 
 story ; and one of our own countrymen, in the romance 
 and benevolence of his heart, had conceived a plan for 
 the rescue of the " beautiful nun," from the convent of 
 Santa Clara, where, it was supposed, she was retained, an 
 unwilling prisoner, through the caprice of ill-judging pa- 
 rents, and intriguing priests. All these circumstances con- 
 tributed to give to this interesting inmate of the convent 
 an eclat, unenviable, perhaps, to one of the order of the 
 recluse, but flattering to that love of admiration, to which 
 the young and beautiful are said ever to be given. We 
 therefore were much gratified, in the morning, by the in- 
 vitation of Mr. P., who had secured from his friend, the 
 Vicar-General, the privilege of introducing some of his 
 friends into the convent. Such an incident had never be- 
 fore been known. And we had only dreamed of the pos- 
 sibility of gaining a sight of the nuns through the double 
 gratings, while we should be purchasing, for their interest, 
 and as mementoes of our visit to the island, some artificial 
 flowers, being the exquisite handiwork of the inmates of 
 the convent. But the Bishop is said to be something of a 
 liberal ; and at any rate, on this occasion, extended to the 
 considerations of friendship, a favor, of which we were 
 the participants. 
 
 We had returned from the mount church in time to pre- 
 pare for our visit to the convent of Santa Clara ; and at 
 a little past four o'clock, agreeably to our appointment, 
 we entered the outer walls of the convent grounds. The 
 doors, which opened from the court into the sacred enclo- 
 sures, were closed ; and four or five persons, apparently 
 on the same unusual errand with ourselves, were standing 
 at the massive doors, awaiting their opening. My friend, 
 who had accompanied me to the mount, announced in 
 Portuguese our names, at the whispering window, as the 
 friends of Mr. P., and was answered that the Senhor was 
 within, and we should have immediate admittance. We 
 walked towards the large doors, which opened into a spa- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 51 
 
 cious and covered area, from which the passage-ways led 
 to other parts of the buildings ; and, as the doors turned 
 back on their heavy hinges, we found ourselves at once 
 in the presence of ten or twelve nuns, in their holiday 
 and dark habiliments, some giving us a very polite wel- 
 come, and others talking with their friends who had pre- 
 ceded us. My friend was immediately at my side, after 
 greeting some of his acquaintances who were within, and 
 added 
 
 " Here is Donna Clementina now, of whom you have 
 spoken allow me to introduce you to her." - 
 
52 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 I walked with him into the presence of a beautiful 
 young nun, dressed in her glossy black habito, with her 
 veil falling gracefully over her shoulders from her silk 
 head-dress, which was so adjusted as to cover the top of 
 the head, and terminate in a graceful point upon the fore- 
 head, without concealing the beautiful blond of her hair, 
 or the open expression of her brow. 
 
 Various circumstances had been recited to me, before 
 I had left the frigate, which contributed considerably to 
 diminish my interest in the character of Maria Clementina, 
 the name of the beautiful nun alluded to. And it was 
 supposed, that, at this time, she must be, at least, thirty 
 years of age. I should not have been disappointed, there- 
 fore, if I had found an ordinary looking nun, once cele- 
 brated for her beauty, but whose charms of person had 
 been painted in colors gaining their tints from the in- 
 tenser hues of the imagination of her admirers, who only 
 had seen her through double gratings, and with sympa- 
 thy which did them honor, while it deceived their 
 discrimination. But before me now, there was greater 
 youth, and a taller and more symmetrical figure, and a 
 graceful manner, which at once pleased me, and made 
 me disposed to censure some criticisms which dissented 
 from the general admiration ; and some free remarks 
 which 1 had heard, detracting from the personal character 
 of the beautiful Maria Clementina. I was agreeably as- 
 sured, as I stood before her, that she was a just object of 
 one's admiration. 
 
 I said, I was happy to meet with one, of whom I had 
 heard some of her friends speak with much interest ; and 
 besides, I had for her the good wishes of an American 
 lady, from whom I knew she would be pleased to hear. 
 
 " Ah !" said the pretty Clementina, " I remember Mrs. 
 R., and hope she is well." 
 
 I assured her that she was ; and an olden friend of 
 hers was lately arrived at the island. The frigate and 
 corvette which lay in the offing were American ships, 
 commanded by Commodore Read, and were late from the 
 United States. 
 
 " Indeed !" again continued the interesting nun, " I had 
 not heard it." 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 53 
 
 I replied that it might not be surprising, as the inter- 
 esting inmates of these fair grounds were not always, I 
 supposed, the first to gain the news of the world. 
 
 What were the musings of the young nun, at this mo- 
 ment, I know not ; but I could not myself perceive that 
 her eye kindled with that interest, which I had anticipa- 
 ted would be the case on my informing her of the welfare 
 of those, whom I had known to feel an interest in her 
 welfare, when they had visited the island some few years 
 before this ; and for whom, from various circumstances, I 
 had presumed Maria Clementina cherished a very partial 
 friendship. 
 
 Others were now crowding about the nun, when my 
 friend touched my arm ; and accompanied by a number 
 of other nuns, we rambled through the piazzas, extending 
 along the buildings and overlooking the gardens ; and 
 threaded the different halls and rooms of the nunnery. 
 
 " Did you deliver your message V asked my friend, 
 with a smile slightly playing upon his lip. 
 
 Yes, I told him ; and Clementina is certainly prettier, 
 and more youthful in her appearance than I anticipated to 
 find her. And yet she did not seem so much interested 
 in my communication as I expected she would be. 
 
 In my own mind, I had already accounted for the want 
 of animation, which I had expected to witness in Maria 
 Clementina at the moment of my communicating to her 
 the intelligence, which I had presumed would be greatly 
 gratifying to her. The interesting recluse, doubtless, I 
 thought, might be the object of the watchful care of her 
 elder sisters, as she would be the centre of attraction on 
 this occasion, which I now perceived had been made an 
 opportunity for introducing into these sacred enclosures a 
 larger number of friends than I previously anticipated to 
 meet there. 
 
 " Why," said my friend, with another smile, " I told 
 you, on our way to the convent, that Maria Clementina 
 did not speak English, and I supposed you would, at once, 
 discover the deception." 
 
 " And then you are deceiving me, ay, mon cher ? And 
 the greatest deception is, that you would make me now 
 believe that the real Clementina is not Clementina's self." 
 
 5* 
 
54 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " No, by no means, I assure you. I will point out to 
 you the real Maria Clementina when we find her." 
 
 My friend himself had not seen Clementina for two 
 years past, and never only through the speaking grates, 
 and had but lately returned from America. My own im- 
 pressions now were, that for some reason, it was a policy 
 in the inmates of the convent, knowing that a number of 
 strangers were to be introduced this afternoon, to have 
 one of their younger nuns assume the character of Maria 
 Clementina, and the real one to be missing ; for I did not 
 know otherwise how to interpret the movements of my 
 friend, and had, at this time, no conception, that the occa- 
 sion would admit of any thing more nearly bordering on 
 a masquerade. 
 
 We proceeded on our walk, through the halls and 
 different rooms, all perfectly neat. This was the bed- 
 chamber of one of the nuns ; this, of another ; this, of 
 Genoveva Caroleta ; and this, in which I was willing 
 longest to linger, overlooked the far extending ocean, 
 our two ships at anchor, reposing like some spirit-shapes 
 on the bosom of the blue deep ; and directly beneath, 
 was the English church, with its loveliest garden of flow- 
 ers surrounding it, and trees embowered in flowers, and I 
 thought there was poetry in all this, and that there ought 
 to be religion in the bosom that dwelled here ; and the 
 soft tear of love and gratitude should fall from the eye 
 that gazed over the enchanting scene, to the delight of a 
 devout mind, which could appreciate the loveliness of 
 the character of that Being, who made all these beauties, 
 that they might delight and win our hearts to him. But 
 we turned our gaze from this lovely point, and left the 
 room so delightfully situated, and which, like most of the 
 others, was hung around with pictures ; and upon each 
 bed was one tiny pillow, white and edged with ruffle, 
 which we would have thought most suitable for the toilet 
 table rather than the fair cheek of the sleeping nun. 
 
 " And where is Maria Clement'na ?" asked my friend, 
 as we entered other rooms from another hall, where two 
 or three friends, who had been introduced into the build- 
 ings, like ourselves, were seated in conversation with 
 some of the nuns. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 55 
 
 " I will send for her," said one of the dark-clad ladies, 
 who, with others, was accompanying us, and as we stepped 
 into yet another room. 
 
 A little time only had passed, and I had said to my 
 friend, You are not designing again to deceive me ? 
 
 " Most certainly not," was his reply, which now seemed 
 most sincere ; when, the next moment, the nun who had 
 volunteered to thread a number of the passage-ways to 
 find Maria Clementina, returned again, and, to my utter 
 astonishment, and I have reason to suppose, to the no little 
 confusion of my friend, introduced me to the young and 
 fair Clementina, to whom he had made me acquainted, on 
 my first entrance into the convent. 
 
 1 could only advance, and repeat the assurances of my 
 own interest, and that of our mutual friends, and adding 
 an apology for the desire of renewing the introduction, as 
 my friend here, who must take the responsibility of the 
 occasion, assured me that I was not originally introduced 
 to Maria Clementina. We chatted again for a little time, 
 about our American friends, whom she had seen, and 
 which now yet more confirmed me that I was, in reality, 
 with the nun, who well answered the description which I 
 had read of her, during the morning ; and now we passed 
 through yet other circuitous passages, and, at length, joined 
 the crowd on the piazza, which lead quite along the side 
 of the spacious buildings which front the inwalled gar- 
 dens of the convent. A number of nuns and their friends 
 had gathered here, into a small bastion room, which opened 
 from two of its sides into the piazza, which, at this point, 
 made an angle. This room contained an altar, hung 
 with pictures, and studded with the brazen candle-sticks, 
 and gilded images, characteristic of the religion of the 
 Catholics. A piano-forte also occupied a position near 
 the altar. The nuns, some of them were standing, and 
 others sitting upon the carpet, all at perfect ease with their 
 company ; while others of the company, in considerable 
 numbers, were gathered on the piazzas, near the two doors 
 of the small room. A harp, also, stood at the end of the 
 piano-forte ; and now a lady in full and rather gaudy 
 dress, but tasteful, advanced to the harp, and music was 
 expected. A young nun was seated at the piano-forte, 
 
56 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 who seemed to me more youthful still than the Clementina, 
 to whom I had been introduced. I asked Mr. P., through 
 whose politeness I had been introduced into the convent, to 
 whom we were to be indebted for our music on the harp ? 
 
 " It was his wife." 
 
 " And I am sure, then, you should be a musical and 
 happy man, sir." 
 
 The music soon awoke, the harp and the piano-forte. 
 It was a sweet quadrille, vibrating on the soft air of Ma- 
 deira, and within the sacred enclosures of the convent of 
 Santa Clara the orange tree, and the citron, and the rose, 
 and the geranium, and the jasmine, giving forth their rich 
 perfume to the gentle breath of evening, which was borne 
 in zephyr-breeze along the flower-enamelled piazza, alike 
 to meet the cheek of the English belle, the brunet beauty 
 of the Portuguese, and the now laughing lip of the happy 
 nun, clad in her cloistered and flowing habiliments, and 
 delighted to greet within their own enclosures the friends 
 with whom, in other days, she had only conversed through 
 the cold barriers of unsocial and double gratings. 
 
 A number of voluntaries and variations were played, in 
 good taste. A young Portuguese sang a laughing melo- 
 dy ; and his Portuguese laugh I shall never forget. It will 
 haunt me over the waters, but the recollection will not 
 be disagreeable among remembered symphonies, as some 
 spell of darker spirit, which mingled unearthly things with 
 sweet harmonies that melted, while its own and single 
 notes thrilled with the awe of superstitious forebodings. 
 
 And as I stood beside one of the doors of the small 
 room, now principally occupied by the ladies, listening to 
 the music, I addressed a Portuguese gentleman at my 
 side, in the absence of my friend, and asked, (for I was 
 not yet fully satisfied as to my having seen the real Ma- 
 ria Clementina,) who was the young nun, sitting in front 
 of a gentleman, whom I now designated. 
 
 " Nun, Senhor !" said the Portuguese, " I do not see 
 any nun in that direction." 
 
 " It strikes me," I replied, " that she very much resem- 
 bles the other young nun at the piano-forte, with blond 
 hair and a more rosy cheek." 
 
 " Oh, sir," said the Portuguese, looking me kindly in 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 57 
 
 the face, " that young lady, at the piano-forte, is Miss P., 
 the daughter of the lady at the harp, and sister to the 
 young lady you take for a nun beside the gentleman. 
 There is a still younger daughter near us. They have 
 only put on the habito and the veil of the nuns for this 
 occasion." 
 
 I said no more, and at once comprehended the scene 
 and my own circumstances. I held up my finger rather 
 menacingly to my friend, who, however, had already as- 
 sured me that we had been a second time deceived. He 
 had also pointed out one of the nuns, as she had quickly 
 passed us, as the real Maria Clementina. I advanced to 
 Miss P., and assured her that she was no less interesting 
 in her own proper person than as Donna Clementina ; 
 and I did not know but a second apology was due her 
 for my almost inexcusable blunders. 
 
 The young lady replied that she was Clementina here, 
 and Miss P. at home. She had once had the pleasure of 
 meeting my friend Mrs. R., w T hen she was at the island 
 of Madeira, and therefore was glad to hear from her ; 
 and supposed, when I spoke of her, that I was aware of 
 their slight acquaintance. 
 
 Some moments afterwards, my fair and interesting 
 friend, who so perfectly graced the habito and the veo do 
 fummo of the Santa Clara nuns, approached me and said 
 they were about to engage in a little dance, and would I 
 join them ? 
 
 I excused myself, by saying that I had ceased, for some 
 years, to dance, and she must pardon me. Indeed, I felt 
 that I was certainly subjecting myself to the imputation 
 of the want of proper gallantry when adhering to what I 
 deemed though it be a dissent from some of the clergy 
 of the English church in my own case to be propriety. 
 The dance did not take place ; and I thought I must attri- 
 bute the failure in some little degree to the fact that I did 
 not consent to join it. It certainly would have exhibited 
 an interesting scene and rather an unique one to an 
 American nuns and priests, and the gay lip. and the 
 bright eye of young and happy hearts, mingling in the 
 dance within the supposed- to- be impenetrable and sacred 
 enclosures of a religious convent. 
 
58 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The music was repeated before we left. And while I 
 was conversing with a group of Portuguese gentlemen 
 on the piazza, a gentleman approached me and desired to 
 know if I were from the United States. I replied that I 
 was. He had lately returned from America, he said, by 
 the way of Europe. There was an American lady pres- 
 ent, to whom he would introduce me if I would allow 
 him. 
 
 I was happy indeed to learn, that Mrs. Abreo, the 
 young wife of the gentleman who was addressing me, 
 had just reached the island in company with him, by the 
 way of London. She is a niece of General Van N ., a fa- 
 mily of Washington, at whose house I had dined, and 
 with some members of whose family I had formed a 
 slight acquaintance. I met in Mrs. A. a young and pretty 
 woman, and was justly happy that America 'would have 
 so interesting a representative of the sex from the land of 
 my home. 
 
 During my interview with Mrs. Abreo, I told her of 
 my adventure with Clementina, the young and interest- 
 ing Miss P. She smiled, and asked if I had become ac- 
 quainted with the real Maria Clementina. Her husband, 
 she added, was particularly acquainted with her, and had 
 known her from her youth, and would introduce me to 
 her. He did so. 
 
 There was now no longer any doubt that I saw the 
 interesting person, who had awakened so much interest 
 in other days whose story has been repeated in both 
 hemispheres for its romance ; and herself deemed the 
 queen of all that is lovely in person, and delicate and 
 elegant in manners ; and she had not yet ceased to attract 
 the interest and consideration of the stranger, and the 
 continued courtesies of older friends. When I mention- 
 ed the name of my own fair countrywoman, who had 
 left a just impression of her accomplishments and good- 
 ness of heart in the island, the nun's eye lighted up with 
 a brilliancy which must have been equal to her fame 
 when she was some years younger. She talks with great 
 vivacity, and seems yet to be the favorite of those who 
 visit the convent. She speaks French, but understands 
 little English ; and yet she seemed to comprehend, with 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 59 
 
 almost the quickness of intuition, an English sentence, if 
 given to be interpreted to her in Portuguese. Her manners 
 were easy and lady-like far more soft and delicate than I 
 had been led to judge, from the description of one who 
 had seen her during the revolution, which, for a period, 
 opened the doors of the convents of the island. Her per- 
 son is slighter than most of her sisters-recluse, and I 
 should think taller ; her figure and features partaking of 
 the more graceful form, (as we think it,) and thinner, clas- 
 sic visage of an American lady. She spoke of our ships ; 
 of the great kindness of Mrs. R., and inquired, by name, 
 after some of the Americans with whom she had met. 
 
 When I parted with her, in company with Mr. and 
 Mrs. Abreo, at the large doors opening into the court 
 without Mr. and Mrs. A. having invited me to accom- 
 pany them to the residence of their friends, where they 
 were to meet a small collection of their connections I 
 said to the nun, that I had made a collection of artificial 
 flowers, which Genoveva Caroleta had in her care for me : 
 would she add a bouquet of natural ones from the garden, 
 from which I might press a few to take with me to Amer- 
 ica? And should I see her again if I called at the convent ? 
 
 She replied that she would meet me at the speaking 
 parlor, if I should call again. I knew that there would 
 be no other opportunity of entering within the inner walls 
 of the convent. 
 
 And should I inquire for Santa Maria Clementina ? I 
 added. 
 
 " No no" she said, as she cast a melancholy look in- 
 to the face of Mrs. A., on whose arm she was now lean- 
 ing. It was the melancholy of a Portuguese eye, which 
 laughs and melts in floating light when it is not sad ; and 
 then she added, " I am not yet a saint inquire for Maria 
 Clementina." I sought not to interpret that look of sad- 
 ness and gentle smile of feature, that seemed to say that 
 the heart wept. 
 
 The next day I sent for my flowers, and among them 
 was another artificial bouquet, more beautiful than any 
 which I had selected, with the signature, in her own fair 
 handwriting, tastefully affixed to it, " Maria Clementina." 
 
 My visit to the convent of Santa Clara had been highly 
 
60 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 gratifying. The general appearance of the nuns was 
 happy. In their persons they were very generally in- 
 clined to embonpoint, with but a very few exceptions out 
 of the fifty-four nuns who are now in the convent of San- 
 ta Clara. Maria Clementina is an interesting exception. 
 Genoveva Caroleta I should think the youngest nun in the 
 convent, and is quite pretty. Her person and features 
 are more a la Portugaise, than her further-famed sister 
 of the convent. She, also, has been distinguished for 
 her beauty, and merits admiration. Her eye (few na- 
 tions can equal the Portuguese in the general beauty 
 of this feature of their women) is sweet beyond expres- 
 sion, and national. The Portuguese eye languishes in its 
 smiles of light, and yet has nothing of the glare of the 
 dark French eye. It is soft, melting, floating, and the 
 light that beams from its contrast of dark and purest 
 white, greets you in vivacity, and sympathy, and sentiment, 
 as the conversations may awaken the different classes 
 of emotions. You would think it easy for such to 
 weep, while the tear would leave the eye yet undimmed, 
 and when brushed away, its smiling light would greet you 
 as before. It is said, and I have thought it true, that dark 
 eyes have only one expression, though always bright. It 
 is not so with the Portuguese eye. Genoveva's is large, 
 soft, laughing, and sentimental, and more beautiful as a 
 single feature, perhaps, than the eye of her fair sister, 
 and her other features, with the exception of her double 
 chin, are interesting. She is more purely a Portuguese 
 beauty than Maria Clementina, who, with her more sym- 
 metrical features, possesses also a more engaging and 
 graceful person. 
 
 The Santa Clara Convent, I understand, is well endow- 
 ed. But no accessions can be made to the number of its 
 inmates; and when the present nuns shall have died, the 
 property entailed to the convent, reverts to the Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 The Curral, an object of great interest to the stranger 
 who visits the island, being a deep and fertile ravine of the 
 mountains, which, on its sides and its valley is cultivated 
 by the peasantry, belongs to the convent of Santa Clara. 
 
 At the convent, on the afternoon of our visit, I saw but 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 61 
 
 one priest besides the bishop or vicar-general. The bishop 
 was clad in usual European dress, with the exception of 
 red cuffs to his coat, and scarlet stockings, worn with 
 short-clothes. He is a partisan of the present powers. 
 The favorer of Don Miguel was exiled, in haste, during 
 the last revolution, in which Don Pedro gained the supre- 
 macy. 
 
 BURIAL GROUNDS AND BURIALS. 
 
 The day succeeding my visit to the convent of Santa 
 Clara, I spent in company with a gentleman of the island 
 and one of our officers, visiting different objects of inter- 
 est in Funchal. 
 
 The English burial ground was one of these objects of 
 interest. Although the ground is small, and hemmed in 
 on all sides by buildings, in the midst of the city, it is filled 
 with flowers ; and many of the graves, as we saw them, 
 were marked only by one unbroken cluster of fresh and 
 beautiful rose-heads, so trimmed and arranged as to form 
 the shape of a monumental mound. The avenues were 
 here, as in almost all the gardens, lined on either side with 
 hedges of geraniums. But it was an emotion of deep sad- 
 ness which awoke, as I walked along the flowery paths 
 of this lovely little cemetery. It was youth and beauty, 
 and young life from other lands, which had come here to 
 prolong its career, but found, in this isle of flowers, an early 
 grave. The great majority of the stranger-sleepers are 
 under the age of twenty-five. 
 
 " The good die first ; 
 
 And they whose hearts are dry as summer dust, 
 Burn to the socket." 
 
 I paused at a monument in relievo in the wall, with 
 a lovely design in marble. It represented, in classic chaste- 
 ness, a female figure reclining, in contemplative sadness, 
 with her arms resting in abstracted grief around an urn. 
 It marked the resting spot of a lovely girl of 16 years of 
 age, from Liverpool, England. She sought health, like 
 many others, but returned not to the land of her fathers. 
 Her name was " Frances," and, as the monument said, 
 
 6 
 
62 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " She sleeps in Jesus. Far from thee, 
 Thy kindred and their graves may be ; 
 But thine is still a blessed sleep, 
 From which none ever wake to weep." 
 
 " Whom the gods love die early," is an ancient apho- 
 rism, that recurred to my memory as I turned from this to 
 a neighboring monument, with the following inscription : 
 
 " GEO. FARISH." 
 
 "Qu.etTrin. Coll. Cam." 
 
 This young man was engaged to the daughter of Legh 
 Richmond. They were married but a few days before 
 they sailed together for the island of Madeira, where she 
 left him entombed among the roses, which die, and bloom 
 again when spring comes ; but the sear of the blighted 
 heart that has felt the frost of the cold hand that has laid 
 its dearer half in the tomb, knows not again the freshness 
 of its young verdure. If aught, however, can render soft 
 the heart of grief, surely it must murmur its faintest and 
 soft moan, while winding through these pro fusions of flow- 
 ers, geranium-hedges, and rose-embowered monuments. 
 
 Nearly opposite, a few steps from the entrance to this 
 repository of the young, the loved, and the beautiful, is 
 the ground, called " The Strangers' Burial Place/' It is 
 the old place of interment, and smaller than the new ground. 
 There was a time, when Papacy reigned in its greatest 
 superstition and power, that the Protestant stranger could 
 find, in the island, no place for the repose of his dust. His 
 body was thrown into the sea. Since 1770, the unchari- 
 table and cruel prohibition has been removed. Within 
 this ground is the trunk of a large orange-tree, which still 
 gives forth its few branches. It is some twelve or more 
 inches in diameter, and has been long standing, to con- 
 template the solemn advance of procession after procession 
 to deposit, in deep and lone sleep, friend after friend ; and 
 has seen the tear fall from the eye of kindred, and heard 
 the low moan and suppressed sigh of widow and orphan, 
 and of hearts that loved with sisters' and brothers' love ; 
 and gave to them all the most impressive of all sympathy, 
 its silence. After this burial ground was opened for the 
 interment of strangers, and Madeira had become the resort 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 63 
 
 of invalids, it was a common saying among the Portuguese, 
 when observing one of these sorrowful seekers for renew- 
 ed health, to say, 
 
 " He is going to the orange-tree." 
 
 We all, in this life of change, have our private sorrows 
 and tearful remembrances, which the association of place 
 or time or circumstance brings up to the mind's review and 
 re-saddens the heart. As we walked among these graves, 
 doubtless our thoughts took their separate course, with 
 some private reference to the memories of each one's own 
 kindred dead. I envy not the man who can walk through 
 the grave-yard with a bosom that wakes no sigh, and with 
 a heart that never declared its emotion by the tribute of a 
 tear. And there are moments while others surround us, 
 in which we were never more alone. The friend that was 
 with me I saw stand at the flowery mound which marked 
 the resting place of his early companion. For myself, the 
 scene around me had in it much to recall past hours, when 
 the currents of deep wo had coursed through a heart 
 which had been bereft of a brother next older than myself, 
 and a sister next younger ; and with the insinuating and 
 insidious disease which had borne most of these from earth 
 to a world where life ends not. I thought, too, how I had 
 stood beside the grave of that brother, who, like some of 
 these, had gone far from his home to southern latitudes, 
 in search of health, but returned no more to the embrace 
 of doting friends. Who can know the anguish of that 
 heart that ceases its last beat among strangers, but he 
 who has left the home he loves to die in other climes ? 
 And who but such can realize the beauty of the eastern 
 blessing, " May you die among your kindred /" But the 
 lone hour when I saw a brother's grave filling, far from 
 kindred and home, claimed not now the tenderest thoughts, 
 as I walked through the home of these young consump- 
 tives. It was at midnight, when I last stood beside a sis- 
 ter's grave. How do I remember it ! It was but the last 
 night before I left my home for my distant wanderings ; and 
 only a few days before, that sister had rested in my arms 
 as she breathed her last ; and almost with her last breath, 
 conveyed from her lips her farewell kiss. It was a wintry 
 
64 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 grave ! And over it, unlike the flowers that covered these, 
 the snow had thrown its robe of white, which I then 
 thought so emblematical of the purity of her beautiful 
 character and lovely piety. Who can tell the hallowed- 
 ness of a sister's love, until he feels its absence ? Who 
 ever shed a holier tear, than falls upon a sister's grave ? 
 
 The same friend who accompanied us to the English 
 burial ground, was kind enough to call upon me the last 
 day I was on shore, to say, that the funeral obsequies of 
 Donna Senhora Cabral were to be attended that afternoon, 
 and he would accompany me to witness a Portuguese bu- 
 rial. This lady was a cousin of Count Carvalhal, lately 
 deceased himself, who was deemed the wealthiest fidalgo 
 on the island, if not the richest subject of the king. I glad- 
 ly availed myself of the invitation ; but by mistaking the 
 church, we were belated, so that we did not reach the 
 cathedral in time to witness the ceremony, though we saw 
 the interment of the body. 
 
 The ceremony of a Portuguese funeral, however, is de- 
 scribed to be (or, at least, formerly was) much as follows. 
 The body is interred, as soon as twenty-four hours after 
 the decease. It is borne on an open bier to the place 
 where it is finally to be deposited, with the face and arms 
 exposed, and attended by priest and friar, chanting a fu- 
 neral dirge. The friends of the deceased follow next, and 
 the line of the procession is closed by a motley company 
 of beggars, bearing torch-lights. With the body a quan- 
 tity of vinegar and lime is thrown into the grave, to cause 
 a quicker decay, that room may be made for others. 
 Their churches are the only places where the Catholics 
 inter their dead, and, by consequence, the space for these 
 purposes must be small. The relatives of the deceased 
 never follow the departed to the interment. It would be 
 deemed, in the sentiment of a Portuguese, as highly im- 
 proper ; and the widow of the departed, in the higher cir- 
 cles, is said not to leave her house for twelve months after 
 the loss of her husband. 
 
 The grave-men were adjusting the coffin in its place 
 of skulls when we reached the cathedral, and persons who 
 had attended the ceremonies were all retired from the build- 
 ing. The excavation had been made beneath the floor of 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 65 
 
 one of the small rooms or chapels, which form recesses 
 from the main part of the church, and contain each an 
 altar. There are some three or four of these private 
 chapels with their altars, in this collegiate church of Saint 
 Peter, where the remains of this lady were interred. 
 
 The place of interment was indeed " the place of skulls," 
 for, in digging the grave, there had been thrown out with 
 the earth more than a dozen skulls and more than a bushel 
 of bones, which we perceived lying upon the consecrated 
 dust, now placed in its heap upon the floor of the recess of 
 the altar. And as we looked within the grave, we saw 
 that its sides were nearly lined with similar emblems of 
 our mortality and decay, jutting from the uneven walls of 
 the excavation. How many slept there in their com- 
 mingled dust ! 
 
 Knowing that the body was generally exposed before 
 its interment, and finding ourselves too late to witness the 
 manner of its attire, my friend, in Portuguese, asked the 
 persons who were yet adjusting the coffin in its place, if it 
 were admissible to open it. We were given to understand, 
 that if we would give them money it should be done ; and 
 they immediately laid the lid upon, which was divided 
 lengthwise in the centre, so as to form a folding lid, on 
 hinges. The sleeping Donna, unconscious of the eyes 
 which gazed not irreverently, but with pity and sorrow, 
 lay before us, robed in a black silk dress, and lace cap and 
 veil, and shoes and stockings. The coffin was of common 
 materials, as usual, lined inside with white, and outside 
 with black. We were satisfied when we had lingered a 
 moment over this sad exhibition of the last end of mor- 
 tality ; when, instead of immediately reclosing the folding 
 lid, the sexton placed the veil doubly over the face of the 
 sleeping Donna, and shovelled the consecrated dust, min- 
 gled with the dust of her ancestry, around and over her 
 face and body, as she lay within the coffin. This seemed 
 like cruelty to me, but my friend assured me that it was 
 a greater honor to the dead, thus to fill the coffin with the 
 hallowed dust. The grave-men then reclosed the lid and 
 half filled the grave, when they took the skulls and many 
 bones and replaced them in the excavation, and complet- 
 ed the task before them, where the mingled dust of the 
 
 6* 
 
66 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 new-comer would rest, until another claimant for a place 
 among these deep reposers should again lay open this 
 crowded home of the dead. 
 
 As the sexton was throwing the earth into the coffin, it 
 was asked if it would be deemed sacrilege to take the piece 
 of satin riband, attached to the head-dress of the uncon- 
 scious Donna. The answer was immediately given to the 
 question by the action of one of the men, as he severed the 
 riband from the dress, upon which my friend, as he folded 
 it, inscribed with his pencil, 
 
 "Donna Senhora Cabral, died and interred June 2d, 
 1838 ;" and passed it to me as a memento of a scene so 
 peculiar and solemn. 
 
 We left the grave and wandered through the church, 
 a guide being at my elbow, and admitting me into every 
 recess. As I was about leaving the church, with my two 
 companions, I perceived a priest with his assistant, (the 
 latter of whom was standing near the place of interment 
 while we were witnessing the covering of the relics,) in 
 one of the lesser rooms of the cathedral. The low bow 
 of the priest invited an interview, while my friends were 
 lingering on the steps of the cathedral. The priest was 
 exceedingly urbane, and invited rne to his house. Among 
 other things, he remarked that he had been imprisoned by 
 Don Miguel, in Lisbon, but under the present regime, he 
 was the first collegiate priest of the church of St. Peter. 
 He gave me his name as I left him, much regretting that 
 I should not be able to meet him again that I might gain 
 various information, which I felt assured he would readily 
 have communicated, and which, to myself, at least, would 
 have been highly interesting. He wrote his name and 
 titles in a neat and legible hand on a paper, which he 
 handed me in exchange for my card. 
 
 An interesting daughter of the lady whose funeral obse- 
 quies we attended, is now in England. There is interest 
 connected with her story. In her association with some 
 of her English friends, her mind became interested on the 
 subject of the Protestant creed. She saw that some things 
 in her own faith were greatly erroneous. But if she be- 
 came a Protestant, she would lose her cast ; and the trial 
 of one placed in her circumstances, probably, can only be 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 67 
 
 known by those who have been similarly situated. Her 
 English friends (how judiciously I do not pretend to judge, 
 but with Protestants there is sometimes need of more char- 
 ity than they exercise) insisted that it was her duty, at 
 once, to give up her Catholic creed and embrace theirs. 
 And in her state of agitation, still believing the truth of 
 much that was the hereditary religion of her family, and 
 yet perceiving that other things were untenable, and, per- 
 haps, injudiciously pressed by her Protestant associates, she 
 became much excited, and for a period, her mind lost its 
 balance in the delirium of her emotions, through ill-judged 
 and contrary counsels of friends. She however regained 
 her reason ; and for the improvement of her health, or for 
 the sake of accompanying some of her English friends, 
 she is now visiting England. It was said to me, by the 
 friend who narrated these circumstances, that the mother, 
 who now sleeps so low and lorn, has been much solicitous 
 for her daughter ; and that this anxiety of mind, doubtless, 
 has contributed to hasten the sad termination of the mo- 
 ther's life. And the daughter may the intelligence be 
 borne gently to thine ear, and the support which heaven, in 
 its sympathy, alone can give, yield thee the consolations 
 needed for early orphanage. Nought but thy God can 
 meet the necessities for such an hour ; and his friendship 
 will suffice for the deepest wo. 
 
 THE CURRAL. 
 
 There are a number of interesting mountain rides out 
 of Funchal. The Curral is considered one of the chief 
 lions of Madeira, and a ride to this deep ravine, so desig- 
 nated, is a matter of course to all who visit the island. It 
 is distant about five miles from the city, and by a circuit- 
 ous and winding ascent. On the morning fixed upon for 
 the excursion from the ship, seven of our officers, including 
 myself, took their places in one of the ship's cutters, and 
 were early conveyed to the landing at the Loo-fort. Here 
 we found horses in waiting, from which the gentlemen 
 selected each his trusty steed, while I despatched a man 
 for the sure-footed animal which, on several occasions, I 
 had ridden, and now preferred for his known speed, ease, 
 
68 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and safety. The officers had mounted and were on their 
 ascending way, with the exception of Professor Belcher, 
 who delayed a few moments to accompany myself, know- 
 ing that we should soon overhaul the cavalcade, which 
 had struck forward in full speed and loud tramp of their 
 horses' hoofs over the paved and narrow passage that led 
 to the mountain through the suburbs of the city, and occa- 
 sionally by a quinta situated on the western side of the city. 
 But a lew moments had passed, when Antonio, a Portu- 
 guese, who had before served me, dashed down the descent 
 to the level of the fort ; and with his amiable smile, which 
 the expectation of a good day's bargain rendered even 
 more amiable, led forward his horse for me to mount, and at 
 the same time smoothing his hand upon the well-groomed 
 neck of the animal, added with great confidence, " Caval 
 American mointebom" a very fine American horse 
 which I had already proved to be true. We were but a 
 moment behind our friends, but we found them in the midst 
 of a shower of mists, which had reached them before our- 
 selves, and in which we now, together, advanced along the 
 mountain-way. The principal excitement along the road 
 arose from the narrowness of the track, which led along 
 the mountain, and winding around jutting peaks, which 
 looked down hundreds of feet into the deep below ; to the 
 bottom of which, in many places, both horse and rider 
 would pitch, if the animal should make a single false step. 
 The day which we had selected for our visit to this deep 
 ravine among the mountains was very unfavorable ; but 
 it was the only one we could expect to have. It is often 
 the case, and was thus every day while we were lying off 
 Funchal, that the mountain is capped with clouds which 
 roll half way down the aslant, while the sun is shining 
 within the city. But our purpose remained unchanged, 
 although the greatest part of our ride to the mountain's 
 highest peaks, was through showers of rain. Occasionally 
 the sky would light up, as the mists would break away, 
 or be seen sailing in horizontal strata along the high sides 
 of the deep ravines far above us ; while we were winding 
 along the narrow path, which had been made on the steep 
 aslants. These appearances of the clouds themselves 
 were an object of curiosity, occasionally opening above 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 69 
 
 US and exhibiting a deep blue vault, through the fleecy 
 vista ; while beneath us lay vast chasms, on the sides of 
 which our passage was now leading to the mightiest of 
 these mighty openings, which exist everywhere through- 
 out the island. 
 
 As our ride was early, we met many of the peasantry 
 descending from their mountain homes, with various arti- 
 cles upon their heads, which they were bearing to the city, 
 as the fruits of their toil and the means for gaining, in 
 exchange, a string of fish or bag of minto, or other article 
 of food or little luxury. Again we would catch, in pictur- 
 esque relief on some far-off' peak, three or four peasants, 
 winding along their private paths, their diminutive forms 
 describing themselves in outline on the light beyond them. 
 And in some other and still lower positions, with a chasm 
 between us, we now and ever descried the shepherd boys 
 and girls, with their crook, guarding their flocks of goats, 
 or more generally their stock of a small and beautiful 
 breed of cattle, feeding on the green herbage that coated 
 the steep acclivities everywhere. The constant care of 
 the peasant is needed for his flock, to prevent their wan- 
 dering down declivities, up which they could not again 
 ascend ; and to keep them within the range which shall 
 enable them to direct their way back to their mountain 
 shantees before night ; for every step here, when the deep 
 shades of the ravines have spread themselves, would be the 
 step of death, as it launched the bewildered straggler 
 thousands of feet below. 
 
 Having urged on our course by the narrow path that 
 wound along the sides and projecting peaks of the ravines, 
 leading up and still up the steep acclivities at angles of 
 ascent, sometimes so great as to make it appear impossible 
 to rise them, and which the horses only accomplished by 
 starting upon the full spring before they reached the steep- 
 est aslants, we finally came, and suddenly, upon the full 
 view of the deep ravine, which constitutes the famous 
 Curral of the island of Madeira. It is 1600 feet deep from 
 the point at which we were standing ; and the dark sides 
 of the ravine raise their sublime bulwarks until they are 
 lost in the clouds yet above us. At the bottom of the 
 ravine runs a blue foaming current, dashing on its way, 
 
70 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and no wider, as seen from the elevated position at which 
 we stood, than the riband on a lady's hat. A chapel, 
 occupied by a solitary monk, is situated on the flats below ; 
 and the day after our visit, two officers who sought the 
 same position, spied the " pilgrim's flag" flying from its 
 walls, as an invitation for the strangers to descend to the 
 bottom of the ravine. It was my intention to have done 
 this on the day of my visit, but the road was slippery, and 
 no persuasion nor money would tempt my Antonio to allow 
 his horse to proceed. We therefore ascended on foot to 
 a high peak, which gave a better view of the deep below, 
 and of the length of the ravine. This deep hollow in the 
 centre of the island is deemed to be an extinct crater of 
 a volcano. We gazed into it, and marked the vineyards 
 that occupied the cultivated grounds around the solitary 
 church and the vine-clad peaks, and everywhere on the 
 sides of the ravine. The blue deep was seen at the west, 
 rolling its high surges far off at sea ; and as I gazed from 
 this elevated point, no sound was heard around, nor life, 
 to-day, could be seen, and nature slept in her sublime soli- 
 tude. A single bird, true, I should not forget, was sailing 
 over the far-down depths, careless of the fearful vacancy 
 of the chasm beneath him ; and higher and still higher he 
 edged up his flight, by the graceful slant of his wide-spread 
 wing, until he scaled above us, and hung in mid-air, over 
 our right, when he was finally lost in the clouds that rolled 
 their mists above us. It was the Manto ; but I thought 
 of our own bird of our own republic, that looks with an 
 undimmed eye on the sun ; and decks, as an emblem of 
 elevated bearing, the proud flag that waves over America's 
 fair land of the brave and the free. It takes but trifles to 
 bear back to one's native land the heart that loves its home. 
 The manto's wing, or the canary's song, or music from the 
 guitar's string, can call us away from foreign loves ; and 
 with an instant spell transport us from isle and over ocean, 
 to the land and the home most dear. 
 
 Our caterer, who accompanied us, mindful of the effect 
 of a ramble and a ride on the appetite of healthy men, had 
 amply provided for its calls in the contents of a pouch, 
 which one of our burroqueros, with the assistance of the 
 tail of the horse to which he clung on our steepest ascents, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 71 
 
 bore to the Curral. We lunched ; and remounting our 
 horses, were on our return again ; with more solicitude in 
 descending the declivities than we had experienced when 
 rising their steeps. But we kept on our way, often with 
 great speed, and to the no little excitement of some of the 
 party with variable nerves. The rains had rendered the 
 path slippery ; and when we were half way on our return, 
 and descending one of the clayey steeps, my eye suddenly 
 rested on a horse prostrate in the path, and his rider, Lieu- 
 tenant W., quite composedly, on foot, pursuing his way, 
 ahead of him. The horse, which had fallen, and which I 
 had supposed already dead from the position in which he 
 lay, with his head downwards, soon rose again, with the 
 burroquero at his side. Had the horse fallen thus at some 
 other points of the road, both himself and the rider must 
 have launched a thousand feet into the deep below. 
 Instances of horses pitching from the narrow path have 
 frequently been known, but the riders most generally have 
 managed to escape, before the horses have taken their 
 plunge. A gentleman assured me, that a friend of his, on 
 the same route, had been thrown off a precipice, of fifteen 
 feet in height; but the ravine bulging out at this point below 
 the path, saved horse and rider from the fearful destruction 
 that would otherwise have met them in their tumble of a 
 thousand feet in perpendicular descent. When the burro- 
 quero, however, had regained the path, he seemed to 
 insist upon the reinstatement of the spirited steed to the 
 good opinion of his rider, by saying, with the greatest assu- 
 rance, " Very good horse, master, Mointebom, killed only 
 two men." This last expression may be a little like 
 " romancing? to use an expression of one of our young 
 gentlemen, who greatly dislikes over-coloring in descrip- 
 tions ; but the danger is not inconsiderable, to any one who 
 rides over this passage of the mountain, to the Curral ; and 
 in one instance, my Antonio seized the reins of my horse, 
 and on another occasion seemed to deem me too adventu- 
 rous. I thought of the remark, that the oldest sailors are 
 generally the most timid navigators, as they are aware of 
 the real dangers that may be encountered. And here, 
 Antonio loved his caval American mointebom, and was 
 aware of the danger to which his very good American 
 horse was exposed. 
 
72 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 We had now descended to the foot of one of the lesser 
 ravines, on our return. The other officers had advanced 
 some distance, while I lingered a moment behind them, 
 as they passed a group of peasants, beside a mountain- 
 stream. The young women were more than usually neat 
 in their attire, and seemed as pleased with the costume of 
 the officers as the officers were interested in theirs. I 
 asked the peasants if they could give me a drink from the 
 pure stream, which was gurgling most refreshingly over 
 the pebbles and through the green yam-leaves, at this 
 hour, when the sun again made his appearance with his 
 uncomfortable heat, as we were reaching the lower posi- 
 tions of the mountain. These mountain-nymphs seemed 
 somewhat in a dilemma at first, as to the manner in 
 which they should meet my request ; but a woman for- 
 ever, when a dilemma is to be relieved. One of the 
 peasant girls flew up a path, to a small patch of yams, 
 and plucked a large leaf, and in a moment was at the 
 little streamlet again ; and with a twist of the leaf formed 
 a leaf-cup. Dipping it in the stream, she presented it to 
 my lip, to the very considerable amusement of herself and 
 the laughing group, while I sipped the limpid water from 
 the extempore cup of the yarn-leaf. I knew that a Por- 
 tuguese peasant was ever ready to receive a compensation 
 for every little favor, and I dropped a silver piece into 
 her hand, and started my horse again on his way ; but 
 the sight of the money gave motion to the whole group 
 after me. As a matter of amusement, I scattered my 
 small pieces of coin along the path, desiring to observe 
 the peculiarities of these mountaineers; and in a few mo- 
 ments more, although 1 kopt my horse in a trot, the group 
 of boys and girls was cvt-ry half minute augmented, until 
 I had quite a small squadron crying after me in most per- 
 suasive tones of voice, and putting forth the utmost 
 strength of limb to reach me, as I occasionally held taught 
 the rein of my horse and suffered the augmenting troop 
 to come up. " For sua suade," exclaimed the foremost 
 boy, who had already gotten his portion, and had advanced 
 as near as my threatening stick would allow him, " for 
 the sake of your salvation," with his hands in the most 
 entreating attitude ; and soon the rest would hasten forward 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 73 
 
 for an additional supply. Importunate from the encourage- 
 ment they had already met with, as I attempted to increase 
 the speed of my horse, the largest boy succeeded in seiz- 
 ing the reins of the animal, and one further retrograde step 
 would have landed myself and horse in the deep below. 
 I raised gny whip, and the boy dropped the reins ; and I 
 avoided another pause until I had reached a part of the 
 path where there was a wider space, when I once more 
 suffered the still increasing number to come up with me, 
 and scattered among them all the small change I possessed, 
 and soon regained my associates in the advance. 
 
 Throughout the city of Funchal, and along every road, 
 the children of the lower classes, almost without excep- 
 tion, ask you " por sua suade," for alms ; and if you pass 
 them unanswered, and a group happen to be near, a gen- 
 eral smile awakes upon their young faces, which are sad, 
 and only then fictitiously, when they seek for a donation. 
 Formerly, before the Franciscans were exiled, there wer-e 
 a vast number of beggars in the island. Now very few 
 are seen, and only among the children. But there seems 
 to be not the least sense of shame or degradation con- 
 nected with their petition for alms. 
 
 The peasantry of the island appear to be, comparatively, 
 a happy people. They cultivate the land, and give the 
 proprietor one half the produce, liberally dividing the va- 
 rious articles they raise, even to the head of a cabbage. 
 From the mountains they also gather billits of wood, and 
 bundles of flowering broom, which, when dry, answers 
 for oven wood. They receive from nine to eighteen cents 
 for the quantity they can carry upon their heads. One 
 half of this goes to the proprietor, from whose land the 
 material is gathered. The same division takes place in 
 the grapes, vegetables, poultry, and the flocks of goats 
 and sheep, and herds of cattle. The peasant who occu- 
 pies the land on these conditions, leaves his title to his 
 children, who cultivate the soil on the same condition as 
 the father before them. 
 
 We returned in safety to the ship, regretting that the 
 day had not been more favorable for our ride and obser- 
 vation, and particularly, that we could not descend to 
 the bottom of the Curral. But the passage along the 
 
 7 
 
74 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ravines, ascending to the point where we gazed into this 
 deepest chasm of the mountains, and the grand scenery 
 beneath, and above, and around us of high peak and 
 fearful slant of far off and blue ocean of cloud, sailing 
 but half way up the sublime mountain-sides here, deep 
 green and clad in vines, and there, dark brown in its 
 rough pumice-stone or basalt, and jets of water spout- 
 ing from its wide area, and lining its way, like a silver 
 stream floating on a dark ground to the bottom of the cra- 
 ter, or to mingle its bright line in the Ribeiro do Curral 
 all, with the peasantry in their mountain fastnesses, con- 
 stitute elements of the beautiful and the sublime, the rural, 
 the picturesque, and the novel, which, in their combina- 
 tion, produce a picture that will ever appear unique for 
 its singularity, grand for the prevalence of the vast, and 
 pleasingly exciting for the blending of so much beauty 
 with the fearful. 
 
 VARIOUS PRIVATE RESIDENCES. 
 
 The grounds of Count Carvalhal, lately deceased, the rich 
 fidalgo of the island, and deemed one of the wealthiest 
 subjects of the Portuguese king, are deemed an object of 
 curiosity to the visiter of Funchal. His situation, called 
 Palherio, is on the east of the city. We rode to it in the 
 afternoon. The late proprietor left his large estates in- 
 volved in dispute among his heirs. He is spoken of as 
 having been a man of great interest of character in his 
 liberal contributions for every public improvement ; and 
 his own grounds exhibit him to have been a man of taste. 
 His domain is set out with forest trees, forming wide 
 avenues of oaks, firs, chestnut, in imitation of an English 
 park. The double Camilla grows here in rich perfection, 
 and exists in immense hedges. The tree reaches six to 
 eight feet in height, and the flower, in its white and red, 
 more nearly becomes the rival of the rose, than any 
 other shrub of which the queen of flowers could be 
 jealous. The perfume of the rose is wanting, but the 
 ever-green leaf of the tree, with its polished luxuriance, 
 has altogether its superiority over the rose. We regret- 
 ted that the shrub w r as not in blossom. 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 75 
 
 In a ramble which I took alone and at random, the 
 evening preceding the one we were to leave the island, I 
 entered the grounds of Palmyra, regarded as one of the 
 most beautiful quintas on the island. It is a lovely spot. 
 The courtesy of Mr. O. invited me to the house, after 
 having with much politeness accompanied me through 
 the grounds. The. interview with himself and sister is 
 remembered with pleasure. Miss O. spoke of the works 
 of the Abbots with interest ; and her taste made her com- 
 mendation of these American productions a matter of 
 gratification to myself. Mr. O., a genteel young gentle- 
 man, visited our ship the next day, and I was pleased 
 with the opportunity of reciprocating his courtesy. 
 
 At the Til, another quinta, we looked with interest 
 upon a large bath in the centre of the buildings, supplied 
 with water from the mountains, as being the reservoir in 
 which Captain Canning of the Royal Navy, son of the 
 late Prime Minister of England, was drowned. He had 
 proposed to bathe previous to breakfast, and delaying 
 longer than was expected, was sent for. His clothes 
 lying by the side of the bath, and his person being un- 
 seen, declared the melancholy catastrophe. 
 
 Having spent the evening with Mr. A., at his friend's, 
 I left at a late hour their residence, for the American 
 Consul's. It was quite dark in the narrow streets of 
 Funchal, through several of which I was to pass. The 
 servant was furnished with torches, formed of pitch and 
 broom, which quite lighted up the narrow street, and 
 made our course through the dark passes striking and 
 characteristic. As we were thus seeking the residence 
 of the Consul, we passed a lady, borne in a palanquin. 
 The two men who moved forward with this comfortable 
 conveyance, also bore their lighted torches. The vivid 
 glare of the meeting lights rendered each party distinct to 
 the view of the other ; and with a salutation, we each con- 
 tinued our glaring way through the dark streets, over 
 which night, with her sablest wing, seemed at this hour 
 to hover. 
 
 The palanquin is a kind of sedan, attached by cords, 
 at each end, to a long pole, which rests on the shoulders 
 of two athletic Portuguese peasants. The lady places her- 
 
76 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 self on a seat, or reclines as she chooses ; and if she please, 
 she draws a curtain, which is thrown over the pole, so that it 
 may entirely conceal her person within, or only partially, 
 so as to defend from the sun or rain, while the passers-by 
 and the lady may recognise each other. When crossing 
 the mountains or performing any distance from Funchal, 
 a hammock is slung to the pole instead of the palanquin, 
 being more convenient both for the person carried, and 
 those who bear the traveller. The facility and strength 
 which the peasantry manifest in ascending the mountains 
 with such a burden, is surprising. The peasantry are a 
 hardy race, and perfectly courteous. Their ease in salut- 
 ing the stranger would do credit to men who pride them- 
 selves on much better breeding. They wear a small cap 
 upon their head, terminating in a peak. Their trousers 
 are gathered tight below the knee, leaving the calf of the 
 leg and foot bare, unless a boot of goat-skin decorates the 
 lower part of the limb. A jacket and shirt complete the 
 dress. The peasant women wear a short petticoat, a 
 bodice, and a shawl, with a cap of blue broadcloth lined 
 with red, similar to the men's. The cloth from which they 
 usually make their garments, is a homespun linen. The 
 frock or petticoat of the women is sometimes a striped 
 material of yellow and red. The peasants invariably 
 salute the stranger, by raising the cap, and the men never 
 pass a peasant woman of their own class, without doing 
 the same. On our way to the Curral, we passed not a 
 single peasant who did not make this courteous demonstra- 
 tion of his polite and easy manners. 
 
 The stranger will be struck and pleased with the mark* 
 <M' case and courtesy of the Portuguese at Madeira, in its 
 society of every grade. The higher orders of the Portu- 
 guese and English society are a good deal distinct. I know 
 not that there are any jealousies existing between them. 
 But I should attribute the circumstance to the fact, that 
 the English families are sufficient in number to form a so- 
 ciety of their own, and but few Portuguese women speak 
 the English with ease ; nor are there many English 
 women who readily converse in the Portuguese language. 
 The gentlemen, however, more generally, speak the two 
 languages of the island. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 77 
 
 On our arrival at Madeira, among other vessels, we 
 found an English yacht. It has excited some interest from 
 the circumstance that a lady commands it, who is thus 
 seeking her health upon the billow. She is the wife of 
 Col. H. Her story, as given by herself, is, that her hus- 
 band had purchased and fitted up the boat, with the inten- 
 tion of accompanying his wife to sea. But on the eve of 
 their sailing, he was promoted to a command in the Guards, 
 which was deemed a matter of sufficient interest to the 
 husband, to decide him not to accompany his lady on 
 the proposed voyage. The alternative was, that his wife 
 must remain at home, or consult her health by entering on 
 her course, unattended by her husband, to the latitudes re- 
 commended. She did not hesitate, however singular it 
 might be deemed by the world, to give her health the first 
 consideration, according to their original plan. With her 
 servant, pilot and crew, she has consequently been pursu* 
 ing her track on the ocean. She dares 
 
 " The wild raging sea," 
 
 with all the composure of a rear-admiral, and daily unfolds 
 her sails to the evening breeze, and dashes out into the 
 offing over the blue surges, in her beautiful little bark, 
 bounding upon the sea-billow as light and securely as a 
 swan, rippled on the waves of a home-stream. 
 
 She passed under the stern of the Columbia this even- 
 ing, while her band was playing " Yankee-doodle," and 
 her crew, composed of some seven or eight in number, 
 were dancing on the deck, in tip-toe glee, to our national 
 air. Mrs. H. was sitting in her usual place on the quarter- 
 deck, with a young friend lounging comfortably near her, 
 and her pilot standing near the steersman to guide the 
 bark. Our officer of the deck touched his cap as the yacht 
 glided by ; and laughingly said, as he took his seat at the 
 tea-table a few moments since, " I was about to call you to 
 witness a scene, but was rather too busy just at the moment." 
 The particulars above we knew, having heard the music 
 of the yacht as she passed. The Lieutenant, who has a 
 nice perception both of fitness and the ridiculous, continued, 
 " I thought our band was rather too small in its numerical 
 constitution to return the compliment, and being just ready 
 
 7* 
 
78 
 
 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to send down the royal yards, the music beat the call, and 
 away came the pennant, ensign, and royal yards ; and as 
 the yacht rounded about the frigate's bow, we rolled off 
 in fine style." A very clever thing, was the response, 
 with a simultaneous peal of approbation from the mess. 
 
 A LEGEND OF THE MADEIRAS. 
 
 There is a pretty legend connected with the first dis- 
 covery of Madeira, if I may so call a romantic narrative, 
 which has been embodied, as dignified history, in the wri- 
 tings of Cadeyro, who is considered by the Portuguese 
 one of their historians of the first rank. The incident is 
 laid in the times of Edward III. of England and Don John 
 the First of Portugal. 
 
 An English gentleman by the name of Robert Machin 
 became attached to a youn^ lady of noble family, by the 
 name of Anna D'Arfet. Her beauty, accomplishments, 
 and endowments, of course, were equal to her birth, and 
 her fortune large. She reciprocated the attachment of 
 Machin ; but on account of the superiority of the lady's 
 family, the parents forbade the union of the two lovers. 
 To prevent the consummation of the desires of Anna 
 D'Arfet and Robert Machin as the young heroine thought 
 virtue and noble qualities of more value than antiquity or 
 elevation of family the parents compelled their daughter 
 to accept the offers of a nobleman of distinction, who was, 
 however, the object of her great aversion. And to render 
 the wishes of the parents and the noble lord more certain 
 of accomplishment, a warrant was obtained from the king, 
 on some pretext, by which Machin was retained in prison 
 until after the celebration of the nuptials between Anna 
 D'Arfet and the noble suitor. The bride was immediately 
 conveyed, by her husband, toone of his country estates, near 
 Bristol, where she became the inmate of a strong castle. 
 It being supposed that the lady was now successfully 
 secured from forming a connection, which her friends 
 deemed would have been dishonorable to the dignity of 
 their family, Machin was suffered to leave his prison. 
 But the lover, on hearing the intelligence of the marriage, 
 first gave himself up to despair ; then, impelled by rage 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 79 
 
 and revenge, he determined, if possible, to rescue the ob- 
 ject of his love from a position he had every reason to be- 
 lieve to be a state of extreme wretchedness to her, and to 
 which she had been reduced by acts of the greatest cruel- 
 ty. He had his friends, who all pledged their devotion 
 for executing his plans. He sought her castle communi- 
 cated, by stratagem, his presence and purposes, if she 
 would consent to accompany him and having a small 
 vessel already manned, he gained her consent ; and the 
 lovers were soon together in their bark, making their way, 
 as they supposed, successfully to the coast of France. 
 But the winds arising, they were driven far out to sea ; 
 and bewildered, as they had no experienced pilot on board, 
 they missed their intended port ; and when nearly ex- 
 hausted and hopeless, after being thirteen days at sea, 
 they descried a dark object looming in the distance, which, 
 as the sun broke clearly upon it in their nearer approach, 
 they discovered, to their inexpressible relief, to be land. 
 As they neared the high bluffs, the land presented the beau- 
 tiful appearance of green luxuriance ; and birds, with white 
 and yellow plumage, lighted upon their vessel. And yet, 
 while I was on the island, a single canary and a solitary 
 manto, were the only two birds which met my eye, in 
 my different rides and rambles. But the age of which 
 we are speaking, of Anna D'Arfet and Robert Machin, 
 were days of adventure, and love, and beautiful birds. 
 The sea was tranquil, as they came still nearer the island, 
 and before them was exhibited a scene of enchantment. 
 
 The boat was launched, and the party examined the 
 point which had attracted their attention for its beauty. 
 The report of the boat's crew was so favorable as to lead 
 the distressed lovers to hope that they had, at least for a 
 time, obtained a haven of repose, refreshment, and secu- 
 rity. Fruits of various kinds, indigenous to the island, met 
 their eye and gratified their taste ; and the honey found 
 in the crevices of the rocks possessed the flavor of violets. 
 The trees were immense ; and the forests, undisturbed in 
 the quiet of unrecorded years, displayed their verdant 
 and massive canopies of foliage. This may not be im- 
 probable, though the island now is almost entirely desti- 
 tute of forest trees. I saw the trunk of one of the old 
 
80 A VOYAGE AROUXD THE WORLD. 
 
 monarchs of the isle, measuring more than thirty feet in 
 circumference, which still lingered in its leafless dignity, 
 in the grounds of the Til. 
 
 Machin and Anna D'Arfet, with some of their follow- 
 ers, left the ship, and landed at the spot which had attract- 
 ed their gaze for its loveliness, and where they were anti- 
 cipating that they should enjoy the delights of security, as 
 they calmed their minds, after the perils of the tempestuous 
 voyage. But their peace was destined not long to con- 
 tinue. A storm was borne over the ocean ; and the ill- 
 anchored vessel, which, under any circumstances of moor- 
 ing, could hardly have withstood the rolling of the open 
 roadstead, was forced to put to sea, while nothing of ne- 
 cessity or accommodation had been conveyed from the 
 vessel to the shore. The vessel, at length, was lost to the 
 anxious gazers on the shore. The shock of this new cala- 
 mity overpowered the already prostrated system of the 
 young sufferer, and her form sunk beneath the pressure of 
 her dejected spirits and increasing misfortunes. The 
 spirit of the lovely Anna D'Arfet could no longer support 
 the multiplied distresses of her situation, and in a few 
 days she expired, in the arms of her devoted and distract- 
 ed lover. 
 
 Aware that he could but a little while survive the loss, 
 which had thus overwhelmed him and made life to him of 
 no longer desire, Machin spent the few succeeding days 
 in erecting a memorial, to perpetuate the story of the 
 fidelity, the affection, and the misfortunes of their loves. 
 And as he was breathing almost his last respiration, he 
 entreated his followers, that his own remains might be in- 
 terred in the bosom of the same grave with his beloved 
 Anna. The request of Machin was religiously complied 
 with, and the bodies of the lovers slept together at the 
 foot of an erected altar, beneath the overhanging boughs 
 of a wide-spreading tree, against the stupendous stem of 
 which a cedar cross was placed, which seems to have 
 been venerated in the changes of time, as it yet occupies 
 its original position, to awaken the sympathy of the passer- 
 by, while he reads the story of Robert Machin and Anna 
 D'Arfet. Thus terminated the sad tale of these two un- 
 fortunate lovers. And thus, and 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 81 
 
 " Far from their own, their native land they slept ; 
 No pitying kindred o'er their relics wept ! 
 Madeira's earth enshrined the hapless pair, 
 The first who lived, who loved, who perished there." 
 
 On the memorial, however, which Machin had left to 
 perpetuate the affecting tale of his own and his loved 
 one's fate, was a request that if, at any future period, a 
 colony should be planted upon the island by Christians, 
 they would erect on the spot a church, to be consecrated 
 to the Redeemer of mankind. The pious request of the 
 dying lover has been complied with ; and a church, dedi- 
 cated as desired, now occupies the memorable spot. 
 
 After the death of their leader, the distressed followers 
 of Machin left the island, whether in the boat which they 
 had preserved, or in a larger craft which they construct- 
 ed for the purpose, is not said ; and they made the Afri- 
 can coast, which lies about three hundred miles from the 
 island of Madeira. They were captured by the Barbary 
 powers and carried to Morocco, where they fell in with 
 their old companions, who had been driven on the same 
 shores and lost their vessel. While they were all confined 
 in slavery, the topic of their adventures was often the sub- 
 ject of their conversation, all of which Juan de Morales, 
 a Spaniard, was particular in observing, and treasuring 
 in his memory. He questioned them about the island, 
 and all particulars which he deemed of interest as to its 
 locality, beauty, and worth. With this information 
 he was soon afterwards ransomed, by the particular in- 
 tervention of the king of Spain ; but while returning to 
 his own country, he was taken prisoner and carried into 
 Lisbon by Joao Gonsalves Zarco, a Portuguese naviga- 
 tor, to whom he narrated the particulars, which he had 
 gained from the party of English, who had been his fel- 
 low prisoners at Morocco. 
 
 Zarco, imbued with the spirit of adventure, communi- 
 cated the intelligence which he had gained from the Span- 
 iard to the Infant Henry of Portugal, whose mother was 
 the daughter of Edward III. of England. The Prince 
 Henry submitted the information to his brother, Don 
 John, the king of Portugal, who immediately ordered a 
 ship to be got in readiness for Zarco, who undertook, 
 
82 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 without delay, to make the discovery of the island of which 
 they had gained this account. He sailed on the first of 
 June, 1419, and reached Porto Santo, which had been 
 discovered a few years before, and was held by the Por- 
 guese. He made a short stay. The inhabitants inform- 
 ed him that off at the westward, a dark stupendous object 
 was always seen, which loomed up in the distance, but 
 which they had never approached from its dismal appear- 
 ance, and which, with the superstitious apprehensions of 
 the age, they regarded as the haunt of demons and evil 
 spirits. The adventurous navigator having seen too ma- 
 ny dangers to be alarmed by this representation of the 
 supposed residence of evil genii, set off on his course, and 
 soon made the island for which he steered ; and as he gained 
 a nearer view of the dark object as it first presented itself 
 to the sight, he thought the lightsome beauty of its green 
 sides, more nearly than any other known land, realized the 
 fancy of a region of fairies, and a scene of the golden age. 
 
 At the bay they first entered, Zarco sent one of his 
 followers on shore to make what discoveries might pre- 
 sent themselves. He landed at the very spot which the 
 English voyagers had but lately occupied. They soon 
 traced their way to the place where the unfortunate lov- 
 ers were interred. The altar and the cross with the 
 inscription were soon discovered, and the spot, in com- 
 memoration of the misfortunes of the unhappy Machin, 
 received the name of Machico, which it still retains. 
 
 The company having returned to the ship with their in- 
 teresting report to Zarco, he, accompanied by two priests, 
 went on shore, and on the same day, the 2d of July, 1419, 
 made a pious visit to the tomb of the two lovers. The 
 ceremonial of thanksgiving for the discovery of the island 
 was performed, and formal possession of the same, in the 
 name of the king of Portugal, was taken, to whose domin- 
 ions the island has ever since been attached. The ser- 
 vice for the dead, according to the Roman ritual, was 
 then said at the sepulchre, and the ceremonies concluded 
 by laying the first corner-stone of the church, which, ac- 
 cording to the request of Machin, was dedicated to the 
 Redeemer of the world, and subsequently the edifice 
 was completed, by the materials from the tree that shel- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 83 
 
 tered, during their residence on the island, the followers 
 of the devoted Machin and Anna D'Arfet. The pavement 
 of the choir was intersected with the bones of the unfor- 
 tunate lovers, whose story has served to add romance to 
 this green isle of the ocean, and which history has digni- 
 fied by repeating, with how much truth we stop not to in- 
 quire, and care not particularly to know. But we do 
 know, that nowhere else could the unfortunate Machin 
 and the lovely Anna d'Arfet have found a sweeter spot 
 to repose their mingled dust, until it awake again for the 
 ever-green youth of ever-blooming years. So ends the 
 legend of Machin and Anna d'Arfet. 
 
 Zarco found the island so thickly coated with immense 
 forest trees, that he gave it the name of Madeira, or Mat- 
 tera, which signifies THE ISLE OF WOOD. Proceeding still 
 further along to the west he came to an open bay, which 
 he deemed to be the most favorable site for the capital of 
 the island. As the spot was remarkable for its large 
 quantities of fennel, which is Funchal in the Portuguese 
 language, he gave this name to the location from this bo- 
 tanical association, which has been retained up to the 
 present time. 
 
 Zarco transmitted his favorable reports to the king ; and 
 Madeira having become a part of the Portuguese domin- 
 ions, Joao Gonsalves Zarco was justly appointed to the 
 government of the island. The king also dignified Zarco 
 with the rank of nobility. And that he might add impor- 
 tance to these his newly acquired possessions, Don John 
 sent three young noblemen from his palace to espouse 
 the three daughters of Zarco, whom the king had endow- 
 ed with large tracts of land in the island ; and from these, 
 it is said, the principal families of Madeira are de- 
 scended. 
 
 The island of Madeira has been known to Americans 
 principally for its wines ; and in former years, on account 
 of the quantities of bread-stuffs which were imported in- 
 to the island from the United States. In later years the 
 number of vessels arriving here from the United States 
 has diminished ; while it is still a matter of some interest 
 in our commerce. 
 
 The principal part of the trade is in the hands of the 
 
84 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 English merchants, who have their permanent residences 
 on the island, with their families. 
 
 THE GRAPE, AND MODE OF MAKING WINE. 
 
 The following particulars in connection with the culti- 
 vation of the vine and the manner of securing its product, 
 may not be uninteresting, as given, in substance, in a 
 sketch by Mr. Bowditch. The best kind of grapes for 
 making wine are the Dual, Sercial, Verdelha, Negro 
 Mole, and Malvasia. They are said not to be palatable, 
 as eating fruit. The vines are propagated by cuttings, 
 which are planted in trenches. The usual mode of train- 
 ing the vines is on trellises, made of common cane, and 
 from two to three feet above the ground. The com- 
 mencement of gathering the grapes for pressing is early 
 in September. The grapes are first trodden by the feet, 
 in a trough made of wood, or excavated in the rocks ; 
 and the first juice, thus expressed, is distinguished as the 
 vinho da Jlor. The bruised grapes are then collected 
 within the coils of a thick rope, made of the twisted 
 shoots of the vine, and repeatedly subjected to the press 
 for the second quality, called must. This is mixed, usual- 
 ly, with the vinho da Jlor, and transferred the same day 
 into casks to ferment. The rapidity of the fermentation 
 depends partly on the warmth of the weather, and also on 
 the perfect maturity of the grape. The more violent 
 action commonly ceases in about a month or six weeks; 
 but a certain degree of fermentation continues to go on, 
 particularly in the richer qualities of vines. The liquors 
 are clarified by a kind of gipsum, brought chiefly from 
 Spain. This is the last process of the operation. Near 
 the beginning of the year the wine is racked from the lees. 
 
 In the case of the Tinto wine made of the black grapes, 
 (negro mole,) the grapes undergo only one pressure from 
 the lever, and are afterwards drained through a sieve, 
 which allows the husks and seeds to pass, the stalks only 
 remaining behind. The whole is put into a vat open at 
 the top and strained three or four times during the day, 
 until the fermentation has ceased. Then it is racked off 
 into casks. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 85 
 
 In making the white wines, the different kinds of grapes 
 are commonly mixed together, except the Malvasia or 
 Malmsey, and the Sercial. The Malmsey grapes are 
 suffered to ripen for a month later than any other, until 
 the skin begins to shrivel. The Malmsey grape is pro- 
 duced only on a few spots, enjoying a peculiar warmth of 
 exposure. The grape does not always produce a sweet 
 wine. Indeed it only does so in one or two situations. In 
 other cases sugar, burnt by a particular wood, is thrown in. 
 
 The Sercial also will succeed only in particular spots. 
 The quantity produced scarcely equals fifty pipes a year. 
 
 A quantity of brandy, from two gallons a pipe and up- 
 wards, is generally thrown into the wines intended for ex- 
 portation, with the exception, it is said, of the Tinto. In 
 the war time, when, from the great demand, the mer- 
 chants were unable to keep a great stock on hand, it was 
 usual to ripen the wines by the use of stoves, raising the 
 heat gradually from 60 to 100 degrees ; and it is still the 
 practice to subject a certain portion of the vintage to the 
 operation of this artificial temperature. The mellowness 
 of the wine is no doubt thus accelerated, but at some ex- 
 pense of the delicacy of its flavor. 
 
 The average quantity of the produce throughout the 
 island is one pipe to the acre, though in some instances 
 four pipes have been obtained. 
 
 The wine from the north of the island is generally in- 
 ferior in quality. It is nearly all consumed on the island, 
 or converted into brandy. There are about twelve distil- 
 leries. Three pipes of wine make one of brandy. 
 
 The quantity of wine produced during the five preced- 
 ing years, according to a statement furnished me by the 
 American Consul, is as follows : 
 
 In 1834, 15,000 pipes. 
 
 In 1835, 15,500 " 
 
 In 1836, 29,000 " 
 
 In 1837, 29,000* " 
 
 * The Malmsey wine has been known formerly as forming a lux- 
 uriant beverage of the more opulent classes in England. It is fre- 
 quently mentioned by Shakspeare, and is seen in all the accounts 
 of ancient feasts, and in the household books of the nobility of forrn- 
 
 8 
 
86 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 As I descended the gangway to the deck, on the last 
 evening of our stay at Madeira, the First Lieutenant, with 
 his usual and always amiable smile, exclaimed, " Why, 
 Mr. T., you like to have been left we only wait for the 
 departure of some gentlemen, who have been dining with 
 the Commodore, before we weigh anchors." An hour 
 afterwards, and all hands were called to unmoor ship. 
 
 The frigate's last boat had left the shore at sunset, but 
 as I saw no movement on board either of the two ships, I 
 ventured to delay a half hour, with the design of being 
 pushed off in a shore-boat. I was on my way for a ramble 
 through the buildings occupied by the Franciscans, before 
 they were banished from the island. By their tenets, this 
 order of monks exclude themselves from all participation 
 in other possessions than houses for their lodgings ; acting 
 literally on the precept, " provide neither gold nor silver;" 
 they were to beg for their living, and to pursue the course 
 of profoundest humility, in the externals of dress, food, and 
 their general intercourse with men, as well as in their pri- 
 vate communion with their God. But after the death of 
 St. Francis, their founder, succeeding generals of their or- 
 der encouraged a mitigation of the strict rules of St. Fran- 
 cis, while the fraternity yet remained mendicants, but en- 
 joyed, from various Popes, certain privileges which yield- 
 ed them revenues for their comfortable living. Formerly, 
 there were three branches of the general institution in 
 Funchal. Their convent, to which I was directing my 
 way, once exhibited, in its spacious building, one small 
 chamber, displaying a peculiar furniture. Its ceilings arid 
 walls were covered with human skulls and thigh-bones, so 
 arranged as to form a triangle, with skulls at each point. 
 A figure of St. Francis was balancing the representation 
 of a saint and a sinner, to ascertain which was the heavier 
 
 er times. The Duke of Clarence, according to English historians, 
 was drowned in a butt of it ; and whether from any particularly 
 inspiring property it possesses, we do not pretend to say, but a cer- 
 tain portion of this sweet wine is allowed, as the annual stipend of 
 the poet laureat. It was formerly brought to England from Malvisia, a 
 town on the east coast of the Morea, from whence it derived its name. 
 And from the grape, originally transplanted from Malvisia to Ma- 
 deira, as is supposed, the modern Malmsey is produced. 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 87 
 
 of the two. A lamp suspended from the ceiling threw its 
 dim light on the skeleton scene, which it were better should 
 have been veiled by a curtain of darkness. The number 
 of bones in this collection was deemed more than three 
 thousand. But with the banishment of this order of friars 
 from the island, this chamber of skeletons no longer re- 
 mains a relic of Franciscan taste, although nothing has 
 surprised me more than the collection of skulls and their 
 associate bones, which have met my eye within the few 
 days of my visit to the island. The phrenologist might 
 have made a collection of any amount of these sad relics, 
 to deck the shelves of his lecture-room. 
 
 I did not reach the point of the walk which I had pro- 
 posed to myself. Mr. B., a friend, met me, and repeated 
 inquiries which the interesting Clementina, whom I first 
 saw in her assumed character of nun, at the convent, had 
 made. I left for her cordial assurances of interest, which 
 the incidents of the convent would render permanent, 
 among my acceptable recollections of the green isle of 
 Madeira. I regretted that the ship's boat, by which I 
 was to visit the shore for the last time, was on the eve of 
 leaving the ship at the moment of her visiting the frigate 
 during the morning, with her father. It is a strange fata- 
 lity, which seems often to guide our steps. By strange 
 coincidences we meet. As strangers, we are surprised 
 at the interest which a passing interview with the stranger 
 has awakened. The golden chain of sympathy has wound 
 yet another coil around the heart. And when we hope 
 again to meet, some fatality has forbidden ; and then comes 
 the passing salutation ; and then, the wave, the surge, the 
 ocean, bear us on our separate courses, like divergent rays 
 of light, each moment of their flight, further and still 
 further apart. 
 
 Some of the stragglers from the John Adams were has- 
 tening to their boat, expecting every moment to see her 
 sails fall. With an admonition to another idler from the 
 Columbia, who proposed delaying until nine o'clock, to 
 finish his notes on shore, I placed myself in a shore-boat, 
 yet dry upon the pebbled beach. Two athletic oarsmen 
 were in their seats, when four others of their associates 
 watched the movement of the in-rolling breaker, and as it 
 
88 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 was returning to the sea, launched our light bark on the 
 mimic billow, which bore us to the unbroken water from 
 off the beach. A pull of a half hour brought us within 
 the hail of the sentry, in the chains of the good Columbia. 
 
 Descending to the ward-room, I found the Consul tak- 
 ing tea with the gentlemen of the mess. 
 
 " Well, Mr. T.," said the Consul, as he rose to welcome 
 me, " I was just devising how I should entertain the chap- 
 lain if you had chanced to be left." 
 
 " Sat cito si sat tuto," I replied soon enough if safe 
 enough. He had my thanks for the entertainment he had 
 already so politely extended, and here (I held up a beauti- 
 ful handful of flowers) was a magnificent bunch of gera- 
 niums from his grounds, which would remind me of the 
 Consulate when the green isle had sunk far in the distance. 
 
 The gentlemen from shore soon after left the ship, and 
 "all hands to up anchor, ahoy," was piped along the 
 decks ; and soon the music, to which the men walked 
 around with the capstan, was heard mingling with the 
 occasional clank of the coming in of the iron cable. 
 
 And now we leave thee, sweet Madeira, with all thy 
 flower-enamelled hills, and geranium avenues, and hedges 
 of roses, and terraces of ever-green and ever-blooming 
 shrubs, and trellises of vines, and embowered quintas, with 
 balcony and turret. But not all of thee shall we leave, 
 for of thee we have treasured up thoughts that may not 
 die. Yet fare thee well, thou green isle ! Henceforth thou 
 shalt lie, as a beautiful thing, in my memory. And the 
 names of some who dwell among thy garden-flowers, are 
 treasured where they are not to be forgotten. The shades 
 of evening have shut in, and only the lights that gleam 
 from thy balconies tell me where lie thy beautiful parterres. 
 But the clear blue sky spreads its canopy of early eve 
 above thy shaded isle. And I have now given to ye all 
 my last look, and seek my room. Then, 
 
 Good-night, good-night ! one star is o'er you peering, 
 As 'cross the wave our gallant ship is steering ; 
 Good-night, good-night ! ye'll calmly seek your 
 While we, afar, are toss'd upon the billow. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 89 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 Ships stand south. Sunday exercises. Meeting of friends in another world. 
 A grasshopper visits the ship. His message a true one. Cape de Verdes. 
 General quarters. Crossing the Line. Star-gazing. The old eagle at 
 home. Reefing. An Extract. A Naval toast. A man overboard. Me- 
 mory of the departed and loved. South American coast in sight. Moon- 
 light scene. Entering the narrow pass to the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. 
 Music at sundown. 
 
 OUR two ships have been standing on their southwest- 
 erly course, from Madeira, for several days, without any 
 incident of particular interest occurring. It has been a 
 leisure moment for reviewing the scenes which presented 
 themselves to us at Madeira, the fairy isle which cannot 
 fail to originate in the mind of the visiter many pleasur- 
 able visions, and always be recalled in the future, among 
 the most welcome memories. 
 
 On the first Sunday out of Madeira, after the religious 
 exercises of the day, one of the Lieutenants joined me as 
 I was pacing the quarter-deck, and expressed his persua- 
 sion that he would become religious if one idea could be 
 made certain to him, which I had advanced in my morn- 
 ing's discourse. It related to the meeting of friends, and 
 their recognition of each other, in another world. That 
 Christian friends will meet in heaven, and there recognise 
 each other, I believe to be the general drift of the Scrip- 
 tures. " To depart, and to be with Christ, is far better," 
 is the language of St. Paul, applicable to all Christians 
 as well as to the Apostle. And if Christians shall all be 
 with Christ, they, by consequence, will be with each other. 
 And retaining their memories, as one constituent part of 
 their mental and responsible being, they must, as associate 
 and social spirits, recognise each other, in their eternal 
 intercourse in the society of the redeemed.* This young 
 
 * See this subject treated at length in " ELLA V , on THE JULY 
 TOUR," written by the author of the Flag Ship, wherein the travel- 
 ling party is represented as holding several conversations on the sub- 
 ject, while visiting the beautiful burial grounds at Mount Auburn, 
 near Boston. 
 
 8* 
 
90 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 gentleman's interest in the subject of which he spoke was 
 sincere ; and he has had my sympathy and solicitude for 
 his highest happiness for this and the coming world. 
 
 We infer that land is not far from us, as a grasshop- 
 per has made his off-shore leaps, to visit so strange a thing 
 as a man-of-war. Had he been a Malay, perhaps we 
 should have asked him questions about his so unceremoni- 
 ously boarding us. And what must have been his surprise, 
 as he cautiously crawled up our sides and took his first 
 view of our fearful decks, with their threatening forty- two 
 pounders lining their long bulwarks, with perforations, 
 through which " death and destruction" bear forth to their 
 enemies " blood and carnage sounding with death-groans." 
 And then, as he looked upon the four or five hundred 
 tarpaulin-headed sons of the ocean, moving over the decks 
 of the sea-monster here, in unison pulling upon some 
 sinew of the moving animal, or there, easing a strain upon 
 one of her tiring wings ; then, as he saw certain timid 
 young gentlemen waiting, with expectant attention, the 
 order of the deck-officer, who was about to speak big 
 words through a trumpet ; and then, as he sat on the lee 
 gunwale and cast his eye to the quarter-deck, and caught 
 a look at a venerable and graceful old gentleman in gold 
 lace and epaulets and bright buttons, moving backwards 
 and forwards in commanding dignity and self-possession ; 
 and then, as he gazed upon the bright things, and the 
 dark things, and the painted things, and the double edged 
 things, and the confused things, and the straight things, 
 and the crooked things, surely, his agitated bosom must, 
 at length, have heaved in fearful and profound surprise. 
 Ah ! Mr. Grasshopper ! not I should like to have been 
 upon thy trembling legs. In fearful haste to re-seek my 
 forsaken land-home, I should, with a single leap, have re- 
 laved my grasshopper sides ! 
 
 The grasshopper's message was a true one. At meri- 
 dian, the cry of "land ho !" told us, that we were sailing 
 through the pass between the islands of the Cape de 
 Verdes Saint Jago on our right and the Isle of May on 
 our left. The jagged outlines of St. Jago present a pecu- 
 liar appearance, lower than Madeira, but barren, as we 
 see it through the mists which render its base indistinct, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 91 
 
 and its more elevated points devoid of other interest than that 
 found in the varied shades which its nearer prominences, 
 in contrast with the further-in ravines, produce, while the 
 blending of the irregular tops of the cragged peaks, repre- 
 sents the troubled waves of a rolling ocean, when render- 
 ed partially indistinct by the mists which sweep over its 
 gray bosom. 
 
 GENERAL QUARTERS. 
 
 A proud frigate with all her equipments of war, and 
 tracery of cordage, and sheets of canvass, is always an 
 object to secure the gazer's admiration for her beauty and 
 grandeur. But nowhere, save in the storm, is the interest 
 which one feels as he stands upon her deck, more intense, 
 than during the profound silence that occurs at general 
 quarters. 
 
 A few rolls of the drum beat the call to quarters, first 
 slow, then quicker, and in another moment the thrilling 
 roll has ceased, giving only time for every man to reach 
 his place. The officers, with their swords in hand, are at 
 the position they would occupy in an engagement. The 
 men are at their guns. The magazine is opened, and the 
 passers of powder occupy their stations, forming a line to 
 the decks from the depository of the fearful agent, which 
 is to do the deeds of destruction, devastation, and death. 
 A hasty review of each division is gone through by its offi- 
 cer, who reports his division to the commanding officer 
 as ready for action ; when he returns again in silence, to 
 wait the orders which are to succeed. It is, at this mo- 
 ment, a stillness reigns through the ship, so hushed, that a 
 single sigh could almost be heard ; and the step of the 
 commanding officer sounds, as he paces the deck back^ 
 wards and forwards, as if he were the solitary being that 
 possessed the ship. The deep stillness impresses the soul 
 like the ominous foreboding which precedes the earth^ 
 quake, or as the interlude between the eruptions of the 
 volcano. 
 
 Such was the scene exhibited to-day, June 12th. The 
 sea was calm. The sails hung flat to the masts. The 
 beat to quarters had rolled through the ship ; and in an- 
 
92 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 other moment, every man was at his station. The ship's 
 crew had been almost daily exercised at the guns, that 
 they might become familiar with their management ; but 
 to-day their evolutions were to include the discharge of 
 four rounds of canister. The order was given, and the 
 double broadside, with the thunder of sixty cannon, boomed 
 over the wide sea. Then the irregular cannonading suc- 
 ceeded, each division vieing with the others, in their en- 
 deavor to exceed, in quickness of action, the discharge 
 of the others' pieces, while the successive and quick report 
 of musketry was heard from the upper deck. 
 
 I had passed from the magazine to the berth-deck dur- 
 ing the action, where I met the surgeon. For a moment 
 the cannonading had ceased. The hatch of the gun-deck 
 was hurriedly raised, and the word passed for the surgeon. 
 The doctor, attended by one of his assistants, was immedi- 
 ately at the spot, where a wounded sailor was lying, with 
 a lacerated arm dripping with blood, and two fingers 
 blown from his hand. The accident occurred in conse- 
 quence of the bursting of a powder-horn while re-priming 
 a gun, a portion of an ignited match having remained upon 
 the breech after the match had been unsuccessfully applied 
 to the priming tube. Others, who were standing about 
 the gun, were slightly wounded. The principal sufferer 
 had his hand and arm immediately dressed, and was con- 
 veyed, in a cot, after the closing of the magazine, to a 
 position in the sick-bay. A few hours afterwards, he was 
 carried to a yet more comfortable place on the gun-deck. 
 I went to the sick-bay after the mock-fight was over, and 
 found some half a dozen of the men having their slight 
 cuts and bruises bandaged. 
 
 There is seldom any good we would secure, which is 
 not attended by some evil, in the way of our obtaining it. 
 And the very accidents which occur on these occasions 
 of exercise, show the necessity of their repetition, that 
 the crew may become familiar with their duty, and be 
 saved from greater destruction, in case of any necessity 
 for conducting a general engagement with an enemy ; or 
 in sustaining the proper dignity of the national flag. Our 
 men-of-war, even in times of peace, are often placed in 
 circumstances, critical in themselves, and requiring the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 93 
 
 self-possession of confident preparation, to enable a com- 
 mander to act with the dignity which his station, as the 
 protector of our commerce in foreign ports, or as the 
 politic negotiator, requires. The crew have also been 
 drilled in the use of small-arms, and exercised in the 
 evolutions for boarding with the pikes and cutlasses, as 
 well as in the calling away of the firemen with their water- 
 buckets, in case of the critical situation of the ship on fire. 
 
 When the exercises of our guns were over, volumes of 
 dense smoke were seen to issue from the ports of the 
 John Adams, now lying on our larboard quarter ; and in 
 a moment more, the roar of her cannon told us that she 
 was following the motions of the Columbia. 
 
 We are nearing the line this evening, if we have not 
 already bounded over it. Our latitude at meridian, July 
 17th, was 49' North. We are driving along finely, with 
 royals set and filled with the fresh trades from the south- 
 east. The night is fine ; and the contrast of variables 
 and calms which have attended us for a few days past, 
 renders our present good fortune doubly acceptable, and 
 conducive to make us all good-natured. The breeze 
 comes blandly upon the cheek, while dark clouds, in 
 their characteristic gray of the trades, form a panoramic 
 view in the horizon. The sun fell beneath a serrated 
 vapor bank, and lighted up its cragged peaks with a 
 fringe of gold. The twilight was briefj while the strag- 
 gling gray clouds began to assume a dull but soft bottle- 
 green color, deepening as they sailed through a back- 
 ground, which changed from the faintest light to a shade 
 of pink, as delicate as the softest blush on the cheek of 
 loveliest lady. And now above us, and higher up than 
 ever before I had seen her riding through her azure halls, 
 every moment deepening in their blue, the lovely Diana 
 moved on her course serene, with a night-brilliant thrown 
 carelessly upon her western horn, as if to pioneer her 
 way of gems and purple. 
 
 I was on the horse-block with the surgeon, looking at 
 the scene in the west, and inhaling the delightful breeze 
 of the evening's earliest hour, which, although in the 
 temperature of 82 F. to-night, reminded me of the 
 bracing atmosphere of earliest nothern autumnal days. 
 
94 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " Two idlers here, that should be ordered to the deck," 
 said the First Lieutenant, as he made a third upon the 
 horse-block. 
 
 " And that fringe of gold thereaway, is worth looking 
 at and remembering, as seen on the eve when we were 
 on the widest point of earth and ocean," I repeated. 
 
 " Fine, indeed," continued the First Luff. " But, Doc- 
 tor, do you see the Line yet ? It strikes me that you and 
 Mr. T. look as if you might need shaving before morning." 
 
 " The Line has not snubbed us yet," added Lieut. W., 
 who had also joined the party, " but there goes a bird, 
 and there another. They are as great boobies as our- 
 selves, for being here ; at least, Jack calls them boobies, 
 as they sometimes light upon the ship, and in an instant 
 seem to be asleep, and suffer themselves to be taken." 
 
 " See you that ?" added Lieutenant P., approaching the 
 horse-block and pointing to a bank of clouds, which had 
 already caught our admiration, and had not yet lost its 
 edge of gold. 
 
 " And Diana too, with her bright-eyed greyhound, on 
 her evening hunt, see you not that also ?" I pointed to 
 the beautiful moon, having at this moment nearly the 
 same right ascension with Jupiter, who, in his brilliant 
 white light, at this hour of early evening, appeared, 
 though intensely more bright, of the size of a star of the 
 fourth magnitude. 
 
 We lingered on the side-steps, and talked of olden 
 customs, when crossing the Line ; and chatted of other 
 things, like a group of idlers, enjoying the sweet hour 
 and the lovely scene, and snuffing the soft air, while we 
 were gliding finely through the waters, with our sails 
 trimmed on a tack which, with the southeast trades, we 
 expected would last, almost without touching a cord, for 
 a dozen days to come. 
 
 A boy from the ward-room approached, and touching 
 his hat, said that tea was ready. The horse-block and 
 the tea-table have their separate temptations ; and we 
 left the sociability of the one, and the gorgeous scene 
 contemplated from it, for the cheer and the chat of the 
 other. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 95 
 
 STAR-GAZING AT SEA. 
 
 It is a glorious thing, that gemmed blue sky, which 
 nightly arches its spangled canopy over the head of the 
 voyager. I have long and often amused myself in read- 
 ing the bright night-lights, as they have gleamed in their 
 mellowed beauty of distance and brightness. I have 
 watched the north polar-star, from night to night, as it 
 sank lower and lower towards the horizon, telling me 
 that I was receding further and still further from the 
 land of my home ; until, at last, it sat to be seen no more, 
 until our ship should retrace her course from a southern 
 to re-enter a northern hemisphere. The eye, however, 
 still lingers on the dipper of the northern bear, which has 
 served to point out to one the position of the polar gem, 
 and still tells him where the sunken brilliant gleams, to 
 delight the eyes of gazers beneath another zenith. But 
 to me, one star, more dear than any other, attracts and 
 holds my gaze, in the region of the north. Nor is there 
 a lovelier gem in the heavens. It shines like the ever- 
 varying but ever-brilliant hues of the diamond in a well 
 lighted hall, giving forth its translucent gleam of light, 
 now of palest green, and then of blue, and red, and some- 
 times, in its ceaseless twinkling scintillations, deepening 
 to the blue of indigo, while undiminished in its brilliancy 
 and light. It is Lyra, of the constellation of the Harp. 
 And it is my natal star, reaching its meridian in the 
 month and nearly on the day of my birth. And it gleams 
 almost in the zenith of the region that marks the home 
 of my youth ; and reminds me of hours when, with others, 
 I have gazed upon it for its brightness and beauty. 
 
 Nor is it only our own private associations which awake, 
 when the stars are the objects of one's contemplation. 
 The thoughts go back to olden times, when the sages of 
 other lands and periods gazed upon the same bright orbs ; 
 and astrologers read them as if they might find, in their 
 hidden lore, the secret of immortal years and the fortunes 
 of princes, and armies, and kingdoms, as well as the un- 
 developed destinies of the private adventurer, and the 
 hidden fortunes of the agitated and expectant lover. But 
 
96 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 how deep is the sleep that has gathered over the closed 
 eyes of all that multitude of millions, who, like ourselves, 
 have gazed on the same undying lights which awake our 
 admiration, and still gleam in the heavens for the delight 
 of generations yet to come ! It is no unwelcome re very 
 of the mind, while looking upon these bright orbs, to re- 
 call the recorded feelings with which others have mused, 
 like ourselves, on the blue heavens, hung in their gorgeous 
 display, inwrought and inlaid by the hand of Deity. 
 How many philosophers have gazed on these same lumina- 
 ries, with lingering eyes and longing minds, to read the true 
 theory of their motions and matter ! But the far-ancient 
 solved not the problem : his theories all failed somewhere. 
 But though ever fanciful, they were yet often beautiful 
 imaginings ; and not unfrequently were blended with ideas 
 strikingly sublime. Far off, in that yonder region of the 
 north, Cosmas Indopleastes, who supposed this earth an 
 immense plane with an insurpassable ocean washing its 
 circular edge, placed a conical mountain. Around this 
 he conjectured that the stars performed their daily revo- 
 lution ; and the sun also, with an oblique motion, by which 
 the different lengths of the days and the seasons were 
 accounted for. But the stars and the sun itself, were 
 borne on in their several courses by celestial spirits. 
 
 And olden bards have sung the same starry glories, 
 in strains which associate their ancient reveries with the 
 mystic dreamings of the philosophers. Long-haired 
 lopas, as Virgil's heroics tell us, tuned his gilded lyre to 
 what the mighty Atlas taught ; whence the race of men 
 and beasts ; whence Arcturus, the rainy Hyades, and the 
 two northern cars ; why winter suns make so much haste 
 to set in the ocean, and what retarding cause detains the 
 slow summer nights.* 
 
 And Manilius, in the age of Augustus Caesar, also 
 mused in numbers on the beautiful star of Lyra, as 
 
 " ONE, placed in front above the rest, 
 A vigorous light ;" 
 
 and the story of Orpheus carries us back to the period of 
 
 * " Cithara crinitus lopas 
 Personal aurata, docuit quae maximus Atlas. 
 Hie canit erratem Lunam, Solisque labores ; 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 97 
 
 the Argonauts. The constellation of which Lyra is the 
 principal star, as ancient legend tells us, is the celestial 
 Harp, with which Apollo gifted Orpheus. As he touched 
 its strings, rivers paused in their flow, and the forest-beast 
 forgot his wildness, and hill and mountain moved to 
 listen to his song. And when he had lost his lovely 
 Eurydice, his bride, from the land of the nymphs, his 
 grief led him to the lower regions of Pluto and Pro- 
 serpine, in search of her. He touched his lyre in their 
 hearing, and so moved their pity, that they consented to 
 restore Eurydice to him, with the single condition that 
 he should not cast back his eyes upon his beautiful bride, 
 before he had reached the outer border of their dark 
 dominions. But, while already in sight of the upper re- 
 gions of the air, Orpheus cast back one longing look upon 
 his beloved Eurydice. He saw her ; but the next mo- 
 ment she was beyond his future sight. He could not 
 re-enter the regions of Pluto ; and on earth his grief led 
 him to forsake all society of his species. This behavior 
 so incensed the Thracian ladies, as story tells us, that 
 they destroyed the lyric bard and harper, and threw into 
 the river Hebrus his head, which continued to articulate, 
 as it glided down the stream to the ^Egean sea, " Eury- 
 dice! Eurydice! Eurydice!" 
 
 Such is the legend of Orpheus, decreed divine honors 
 after his death, and his lyre placed among the constella- 
 tions of the heavens. It is not madness to dream, in le- 
 gends, when gazing on the stars. 
 
 The music of the spheres, we know, is another olden 
 idea Pythagoras representing Apollo as playing upon a 
 seven-stringed harp ; by which, we are informed by Pli- 
 ny, is meant the sun and the seven planets. To this har- 
 mony of the spheres, Euripides thus beautifully alludes : 
 " Thee I invoke, thou self-created Being, who gave 
 birth to nature, and whom light and darkness, and the 
 whole train of globes encircle with eternal music." 
 
 But it is in Shakspeare, we may find allusion to almost 
 
 Unde hominum genus et pecudes ; unde imber, et ignes ; 
 Arcturum, pluriasque Hyades, geminosque Triones 
 Quid tantum Oceano properant se tingere Soles 
 Hiberni, vel quae tardis mora noctibus obstet," 
 9 
 
98 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 every thing ; and as no other bard has described, and no 
 othermuse hassung. What can surpass the lines I copy here? 
 
 " Look, how the floor of heaven 
 Is thick inlaid with patines of bright gold ; 
 There's not the smallest orb, which thou behold'st, 
 But in his motion, like an angel, sings, 
 Still quiring to the young-eyed cherubim : 
 Such harmony is in immortal souls ; 
 But whilst this muddy vesture of decay 
 Doth grossly close it in, we cannot hear it" 
 
 But as I turn from the beautiful star Lyra, my eye rests, 
 not far off in the S. W., on Arcturus, " the brightest, the 
 fairest of the stars," another favorite, but all unlike the 
 soft and modest Lyra. It shone, in its beautiful red light, 
 almost in our zenith at Madeira, and by some is deemed 
 the star of the heavens nearest to our earth, as it is cer- 
 tainly one of the brightest and loveliest of the heavens. 
 And its associations bear us back to sacred records as 
 well as to pagan legends. Surely nothing can be sub- 
 limer than some of the allusions of the sacred penmen, 
 when penetrated by a profound sense of the omnipotence 
 of the Deity, as seen in his works. What can be finer, 
 or more thrilling, as an exhortation to a spirit that ac- 
 knowledges its responsibility to the Eternal God, than the 
 following? " Seek him that maketh the seven stars, and 
 Orion, and turneth the shadow of death into morning." 
 And Job represents the Eternal as demanding, " Knowest 
 thou the ordinances of heaven? Canst thou bind the 
 sweet influences of the Pleiades, or loose the bands of 
 Orion ? Canst thou bring forth Mazzaroth in his sea- 
 son, or canst thou guide Arcturus with his sons ?* And 
 this is language, supposed to have been written, at least, 
 3351 years ago. And on that same star gazed the patient 
 Job, at that far-back period ; and on the same luminary, 
 that loses nought of its loveliness or brightness with its 
 years, also gazed the " priests of On," in the land of the 
 mighty Pharaohs, from one of whom Pythagoras gained his 
 knowledge of the theory of the heavens, and introduced the 
 true system of the universe into Greece ; and the daughter 
 of another, Pharaoh wisely gave to Joseph, as a bride. 
 
 * Job xxxviii 31-33. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 99 
 
 The stars of the southern hemisphere strike one as 
 being fewer, but brighter and more distinct, than those of 
 the northern. The stars of the first magnitude appear at 
 greater intervals from each other, and less surrounded by 
 smaller stars, and nebula. The constellation which al- 
 ways attracts the voyager from the north, who has never 
 before crossed the Line, is the southern cross. This is 
 composed of four distinctly bright stars, forming the four 
 points of a cross, one of the first magnitude, two of the 
 second, and one of the third or fourth. It is a beautiful 
 constellation ; and no wonder that it should have attract- 
 ed, with deep interest, the daring discoverers, who sailed 
 in an age when the cross was the emblem which gave 
 license to conquest, and enthusiasm and zeal to the bad 
 and the good, on the land and on the sea. 
 
 " He who admires not, to the stars is blind." 
 
 The Aquila, or the Eagle, has also attracted my atten- 
 tion for its beauty, being favorably situated for our ob- 
 servation, on our passage from the Madeiras to the Bra- 
 zils. Its central red brilliant, called Altair, and a lunar 
 star, is a lovely gem of the heavens ; and it requires not 
 a vived imagination to fancy it the bright eye of the bird 
 of Jove, though the fanciful resemblances appropriated, 
 by the ancients, to the constellations, have but little re- 
 semblance in reality, in the adjustment of the stars in 
 their appropriate places. And what American can gaze 
 at the Eagle and not think of the emblem in his own na- 
 tional escutcheon : 
 
 " The bird, above the world that dwells alone, 
 And proudly makes the strength of rocks his own." 
 
 They say he is a noble bird. His bearing, at least, has been 
 a proud one on the banners of many nations. The Roman 
 standard, as it displayed its graceful folds, spread the wings 
 of the favorite bird over the hill and vale of every known 
 land; and Napoleon preferred the undaunted eagle, an 
 emblem of his own towering spirit, to the fleur de lis. 
 
 When shall that standard, which our own gallant 
 barque is now bearing, with honorable designs, in her 
 voyage around the world, cease to be, as it now surely 
 
100 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 is, the emblem of as happy may I not say the happiest 
 nation of the globe ? There are those, who seem to see 
 the period, when we shall cease longer to be a united 
 people. It seems almost the fashionable slang of the 
 times, to predict the period of our dismemberment, in lan- 
 guage, which, but a lew years ago, it had been treason to 
 use. Bat is there no sublimer destiny before a nation, 
 which the hand of Deity seems so strikingly to have 
 guided to independence and greatness, than what the po- 
 litical croakers of the day have marked out for us ? Let 
 them read the past. There have been crises, which our 
 country has met there have been shoals, that threatened 
 shipwreck to the beautiful vessel of state, which, thus far, 
 in safety, has borne the charter of our rights, liberty, and 
 blessed happiness; but we have weathered the threatening 
 shoal, and the crested breaker. Why shall we not still 
 be able to guide the national interests, though storm, and 
 tempest, and whirlwind may sweep over us in succession, 
 and devastation often follow in their train ? The ship 
 may still ride safely on the threatening billow, though dis- 
 mantled ; and like oil spread upon the ocean, producing a 
 calm to the surge, so the clear interest of the whole people 
 must ever allay the gale of sectional passion, before it 
 shall have for ever crushed the hopes of the good, and 
 veiled in darkness the memories of the past, by a reckless 
 forgetfulness of the glory and the moral worth and the 
 treasured happiness which our forefathers, in their onward 
 vision of the future, bequeathed to yet unborn genera- 
 tions of the American people. 
 
 For one, I believe not in the prophecies of political 
 demagogues, or the maturer apprehensions of more sober 
 and juster men. Every day increases those bonds of self- 
 interest, which must preserve us a united nation. Sec- 
 tional interest must yield, and will yield, and general 
 sacrifices will be made, when the periods of the greatest 
 excitement come. Mutual concession, as in times past, 
 shall save us ; and the God who led our armies, and has 
 guided us thus far in the pathway of national prosperity 
 and happiness, ought to receive, in view of the onward 
 probabilities of our continued union, the devout acknow- 
 ledgment of every American heart. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 101 
 
 The transition of thought from one subject to another 
 is quicker than the passages of light from one electric 
 cloud to its fellow. We fly from the grave to the light, 
 from the sad to the joyous, from the private to the public, 
 and the contrary. And are there not other and private 
 musings for me, while gazing on the Aquila the constel- 
 lation of the Eagle ? Yes, I do remember me of summer 
 and autumn hours, when I have wandered through the 
 path of the thick wood, and rustled the leaf when no 
 other foot was near, and bounded down the ravine and 
 the steep declivity to the lawn, which stretches along the 
 most romantic spot of the Connecticut. And then, I have 
 traced my away along its green bank or sandy shore, and 
 paused to look upon the still bosom of the silver stream 
 that lay sleeping like a lake among these highlands, and 
 almost the only highlands of this lovely stream. Ere 
 long, if I saw him not already perched upon an old oaken 
 limb in his solitary home of the high rock, I would soon 
 catch the image of a gliding eagle moving in solemn and 
 slow dignity up the reflecting stream ; and one glance 
 above it would give me to recognise my old familiar friend 
 on his return to his perch, far up on the almost perpendi- 
 cular slant of the opposite side of the stream. It seemed 
 but a sling's throw where that old eagle was wont so oft and 
 so long to sit. And here we have often sat, and long 
 have looked at each other, as familiar friends. It seemed 
 always to me, as if that bird could read my own heart, 
 and sympathize with its loneliness. I had learned to love 
 that solitary bird, and to me he was not wild. May I 
 find thee still, my old friend, at thy hill-home, on my re- 
 turn. And if thou hast, as I have sometimes thought thou 
 hadst, a fellow-feeling for a lonely heart, we will again 
 commune with each other, and think of our mutual wan- 
 derings to other climes during our parting, and be happy 
 again to find our olden summer and autumn homes. My 
 old friend, may I find thee there.* 
 
 * It was a welcome coincidence to the writer, on his return, as 
 he glided down the Connecticut, that the old eagle, at the point 
 alluded to, was seen scaling in the clear ether above; and seemed 
 to slant his graceful pinions in kind and courteous welcome, as he 
 kept his way high-up and ahead of the steamer, until he was lost 
 
 9* 
 
102 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 It is now after eight o'clock in the evening, and I have 
 just come from the deck, where I have been witnessing 
 the double-reefing of the topsails. The day has been 
 squally ; and to-night the wind whistles through the rig- 
 ging of the ship in notes, which tell how many a poor 
 mariner a single gale may destine never more to see 
 country and home. 
 
 It is indeed a fine sight, to witness a noble frigate madly 
 dashing through the billows, as if in defiance of the dark 
 surges which roll by her, and with supreme contempt for 
 the winds which howl, in murmurs of the sea-moan, across 
 her decks ; and at the same moment, one hundred of her 
 men lying out upon her yards, to clip the wings of the too 
 nimble bird by knotting the reefs in her bellowing canvass, 
 and when a landsman would deem their hold upon a yard- 
 arm a matter of impossibility, in the impetuosity of the 
 gale. To me such a scene is deeply exciting. Since we 
 have been out, on no previous occasion has the Columbia 
 more than single-reefed her top-sails. Most of the time 
 she has been carrying royals, topgallant-sails, and stud- 
 ding-sails. The winds have been favorable, and the frig- 
 ate's cutters could have performed the course in safety. 
 I should be considerably disappointed not to witness a few 
 bona fide gales during our cruise. And so firm is my con- 
 fidence in the stanch qualities of our ship, that I appre- 
 hend that I could have no fear, in the circumstances of a 
 hurricane at sea. The fresh gale of this squally night, 
 which is driving us onward, hardly changes the action of 
 our vessel from her usual motion ; and as I sit at my wri- 
 ting-desk in my every way comfortable and snug little 
 room, at this moment, no one who had not been on deck 
 would suppose that a mimic gale was raging over the dark 
 deep, and driving its fleecy sheets of mists over a sea, 
 lashed into a wild commotion of frenzy and foam. And 
 in a neighboring state-room, three or four gentlemen are 
 holding their evening tete-a-tete about Lord Byron, and 
 other worthies and unworthies, as pleasantly as if they 
 
 among the olden trees, where we had often met, and with kindly 
 feelings, in former days. What trifles, sometimes, will originate 
 overwhelming emotions ! 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 103 
 
 were conversing in the ampler and motionless parlor of a 
 land-home. But here we are, bounding carelessly over 
 the blue surge, as if our ship were the very personification 
 of the wave and the gale, which for the last few hours has 
 been careering over the high seas, and robing the ocean in 
 its sombre and white of whirling mists and cascading foam. 
 
 An Extract. " In your letter you speak of your love of 
 home, and unwillingness to leave it for society abroad. 
 From my own wanderings, you might think differently of 
 my taste. But, not so. I only go the world around, that 
 home, hereafter, may have its undisturbed sweets. Surely 
 do I know that the mere thing of travelling has but little 
 charm in it for me ; but to see the world as it is, and to 
 cease to look at it through the imagination, has always been 
 an object with me ; and without it, I might never be con- 
 tented, even with my contented disposition. But HOME 
 there is indeed a charm in that dear word. I love every 
 letter of the monosyllable for the hallowed associations, 
 which, when blended, the word awakens. And E. once, 
 was to me a short home. To you, may it ever prove, 
 while it shall be so happy as to possess you, a sweet, 
 happy home. Tell little Rosa, that Mr. T. loves her as 
 much as ever ; and hopes that she and her mother may 
 ever be protected and blessed by " our Father, who art in 
 heaven." 
 
 JULY 4th, 1838. 
 
 A Naval Toast. Our whole counfry : As one dark sea- 
 surge succeeds another but to preserve the purity of the 
 ocean, so may the waves of sectional jealousies in our land, 
 only agitate to perpetuate our union. 
 
 "A man overboard !" is a frequent cry and occurrence, 
 at sea. It awoke a few moments since, from our deck. 
 At such a moment, if the winds be not so high as to pre- 
 vent it, the mainsail is hauled up the ship thrown aback 
 and her progress thus checked, the boats are lowered 
 and search made for the man overboard. All this opera- 
 tion had been gone through, when it was discovered that 
 the seaman had fortunately caught the end of some rope, 
 which, by some oversight, was trailing in the water, and 
 
104 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 thus saved the man, though very much endangering the 
 back of some negligent lubber whose duty it was to keep 
 every line in its place. 
 
 The John Adams was on our larboard beam, at the 
 time, and at no great distance from us. Every motion of 
 each vessel is so narrowly watched by the quarter-masters, 
 with their glasses always in their hands, that no movement 
 of either is long unobserved by the other. The boat of 
 the Adams was in the water almost as soon as our own, 
 on the supposition, from our action, that a man was over- 
 board ; and the boats from the two ships soon neared each 
 other abaft the frigate ; but instead of extending their dis- 
 tance until they were lost to our sight, for a drowning man, 
 they were now endeavoring to find the life buoys, which, 
 as the first thing, on the cry of a man overboard, are cut 
 from the stern of the ship. Though it had been dusk for 
 an hour, the broad beams of the full moon threw over the 
 waters a flood-way of light, by which the boats at length 
 were fortunately able to discover the life buoys, and return 
 to the ships. Again we were on our way of foam ; and 
 the succeeding morning being the Sabbath, made the text 
 of the discourse for the day peculiarly appropriate, in view 
 of the incident of the preceding evening, as it always is in 
 view of the brevity and the casualties of life : " Behold, 
 NOW is the day of salvation" 
 
 A SISTER'S LOVE. 
 
 I have wept to-day, in memory of one, dear indeed for 
 her beautiful character and devoted love. I thought of her 
 last words as she said, " My mind is almost gone brother, 
 you will take care of me will you not ?" What is there 
 like a sister's love ? What memory so gentle and affecting 
 as that which recalls her tenderness, with the conscious- 
 ness that she waits not to greet your return, as once she 
 waited, when you had wandered from the family mansion? 
 How do you see her, as she moved in every path through 
 every room adjusting the flowers in the parterre, and 
 arranging the fresh-culled vase upon the mantel-piece of 
 the parlor, and the table, and the toilet ! And how do you 
 regret that your heart, ever kind, was not more kind and 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 105 
 
 your ever delicate attention, was not yet more delicate ? 
 And when you have been an invalid, who was it that 
 watched, with the stillest breath and the gentlest step, 
 around your bedside and over your pillow '( And who, 
 with the softest hand, has smoothed your pallid brow, and 
 poured forth the stream of sympathy from a filling eye, 
 when your own hath languished, and your heart was faint- 
 ing ? Oh ! it is a sister's love, that will never tire it is a 
 sister's love, that will never weary nor complain, though 
 you forget, in your debility, which makes you a child 
 again, and as an infant, helpless ; and often like an infant 
 and a child, complaining and impatient. But she, when 
 others sleep and the watchers faint, steals to your couch 
 and softly whispers the words of comfort, and gives to 
 you your simple remedies as no other hand (save your mo- 
 ther's) presents them. And if you are convalescent, whose 
 smile is so cheerful whose step at your call is so fleet 
 whose invention, for your taste, is so varied ? And when 
 again you breathe the pure air of the window and the 
 piazza, and at length seek the field, who so gentle, so assidu- 
 ous, and so much your welcome companion as she, who 
 has laughed with you, and wept with you, and nourished 
 you, and read for you, and prayed for you, and suffered 
 for you, but only suffered half of what she gladly would 
 have suffered, if your happiness might have been increased. 
 Surely do I pity him who has no sister and more than 
 abhor him, who has one and loves her not. But thou, 
 gentle, dearest, unobtrusive, retiring, and affectionate E., 
 thou art gone ! And at thy wintry tomb, but lately made, 
 have I wept; and memory yet breaks the heart at the 
 recollection of thy lovely and modest virtues, thy change- 
 less Christian character, and thy devoted, ceaseless, and 
 holy love. 
 
 Last night, the South American coast was in sight ; and 
 this noon, the lighthouse, on the bold bluff of Cape Frio, 
 bears northwest one point north, and distant about seven 
 miles. We have been standing along the coast during the 
 morning, while the land has exhibited the appearance, in 
 its dusky distance, of a chain of dark barren islands. We 
 shall soon double Cape Frio, as we stand up north and 
 westerly for the city of Rio de Janeiro, which is distant 
 
106 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 about sixty miles from the light on the bold cape. This 
 lighthouse is a very picturesque object, elevated upon the 
 highest cone of several eminences, which form the eleva- 
 ted ground of the point. In its high position and distance 
 from us, it looks as if one might measure its length with 
 his thumb and finger, so small is it in comparison with the 
 height of the mountain rock, on which it is perched ; and 
 resembles one of the ever-recurring watch-towers of the 
 olden Moors, seen along the mountain-heights in the Medi- 
 terranean. 
 
 It was kind in the officer of the deck to send for me, in 
 the evening, to witness the glorious moon, wading, in her 
 path of light, through a bank of clouds piled one upon an- 
 other, and coloring, with gold, the fleecy vapors, banked in 
 the west. Our ship was gliding easily through the blue 
 waters, with the courses hauled up, and the top-sails sin- 
 gle-reefed, with the point of our destination in view, but 
 the hour was too late to make the entrance of the harbor 
 of Rio de Janeiro to-night. The Columbia seemed con- 
 scious of her unusual leisure, on her hitherto untiring course, 
 and rested in gentle movement on the slightly ruffled sea, 
 until the earliest light of the coming morning should break 
 upon her, for her entrance through the beautiful pass called 
 Pao de Assacar, which lets in from the sea, into the ex- 
 panded and mountain-bound waters that constitute the har- 
 bor of Rio de Janeiro. I never before have witnessed 
 such a moon-lit scene. The brilliant Dian seemed, to- 
 night, to be abroad in her golden chariot, for the reflection, 
 on her way, tinged the clouds as deeply as the sun some- 
 times gilds the east, when the retiring wheels of his day- 
 car recede deep into the western ocean. 
 
 Lieutenant W., with Lieutenant P., was on the horse- 
 block. I joined them, and together we gazed on the moon, 
 now edging a long pile of cumuli-clouds, with brilliant and 
 colored light ; and now appearing half above the gilded 
 bank, like a sultana, pillowed on her couch of gold and 
 silver. We gazed at her varied beauties, yet more beau- 
 tiful in every new movement, as she changed her attitudes 
 of grace, and freely, from her own loveliness, gave reflected 
 beauty to all about her. 
 
 We talked of the refinement which the contemplation of 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 107 
 
 nature's lovely scenes produces upon the sensibilities of our 
 rougher natures. It makes us love the chaste it makes 
 us abhor the low ; it leads us to respect ourselves, as we 
 listen to the gentle whispers, which a refinement in percep- 
 tion and character wakes persuasively in a feeling bosom. 
 We talked of Byron, as a descriptive poet, ever the favor- 
 ite of W., who now repeated the lines of the poet, so much 
 and justly admired for their beauty and truth to nature, as 
 associated with the sunset scene : 
 
 " Filled with the peace of heaven, which from afar 
 Comes down upon the waters ; all its hues 
 From the rich sunset to the rising star, 
 Their magical variety diffuse : 
 And now they change ; a paler shadow strews 
 Its mantle o'er the mountains ; parting day 
 Dies like a dolphin, whom each pang imbues 
 With a new color, as it gasps away, 
 The last still loveliest, till 'tis gone and all i^ gray." 
 
 Our worthy Master came up, and for once (I had never 
 before seen him sentimental, only when singing love-dit- 
 ties to himself) said, " Could I but have a true description 
 of that scene" looking directly at the moon, " I would 
 send it in an envelope to the north." Well, Master, may 
 thy bridal-night be as fair and gorgeous as this ; and thine 
 onward skies clear of all clouds that can threaten diminu- 
 tion to aught thou hopest of happiness and love. 
 
 ENTRANCE INTO RIO HARBOR. 
 
 We came through the narrow pass which forms the 
 inlet from the ocean into the expanded harbor of Rio de 
 Janeiro, Thursday the 10th July. This pass is exceedingly 
 striking, grand, and beautiful. It may be a mile wide, 
 but seems like a creek only, in breadth, as it runs between 
 the high bluff of the sugar-loaf, which rises more than one 
 thousand feet, on the left, with the fort and high moun- 
 tain-side on the right. The evening sea-breeze occurring 
 regularly here, a ship stands boldly in, passing beneath 
 the fortified ramparts on either side of the narrow entrance; 
 and in a few moments more, she lies in an expanded basin 
 of water, surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills, with 
 
108 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 their thousand cones, far off and near, high up and low ; 
 and their bases studded here with village and there with 
 villas; and there again and most conspicuously on the 
 western range, lies the city the white, the panoramic, 
 and mountain-side city of Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 Our anchor had run out its length of cable but a mo- 
 ment, when boats from the English and French ships of 
 war were alongside the Columbia with an officer from 
 each, to tender the compliments of their several command- 
 ers to our Commodore, and proffering any civility and 
 assistance which might be acceptable. This is usage and 
 form ; and is often frank and sincere as it is ceremonious. 
 
 Our ships had been telegraphed during the morning ; 
 and a boat from the U. S. sloop of war Fairfield had pull- 
 ed out the harbor to meet us; and before we had reached 
 our anchorage ground, a salute from the Fairfield was 
 fired. It was soon returned. The next day salutes were 
 exchanged with all the ships in port and the municipal 
 authorities. On succeeding days, when visited by the dif- 
 ferent commanders, English and others, and the American 
 Charge, salutes were fired, which were reciprocated to 
 the Commodore, on his return visits. 
 
 At sundown I stood upon the quarter-deck of the Co- 
 lumbia, contemplating the scene around us. The ship's 
 decks had been cleared, and all was now at rest. The 
 bay was sprinkled with the men-of-war of different nations, 
 at some distance from each other ; and at our left, as our 
 ship was then swinging, lay the beautiful city of Rio de 
 Janeiro. The waters around us slept like the still bosom 
 of a mountain lake, unrippled as it drank in the reflected 
 loveliness of a serene how serene a sky ! It was like the 
 earliest, and the mildest, and the loveliest eve of autumn, 
 at the north, with the ever-green foliage of the mountain- 
 side of the south for this is the winter month of the 
 summer-winter of the southern tropics. And we had just 
 made another point of our cruise, and anchored amid so 
 much, and so lovely, and so enchanting a display of beauti- 
 ful nature around us. It was sunset. The music of our 
 own ship awoke ; and down the royal yards, and ensign, 
 and pennant had come ; and all was still again on deck, 
 save a few of the officers on the quarter-deck, gazing on 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 109 
 
 the mellow and lovely scene around us. I had placed 
 myself on the arm-chest of the quarter-deck ; and while 
 I leaned against the hammock-cloths, gazing over the lar- 
 board quarter of the tafterel, the sweet and subdued music 
 of a full band of a Brazilian man-of-war, lying not a great 
 way at the stern and at the windward of us, came softly 
 over the water, in its wild and magic strains. I listened 
 apart from the rest ; and was carried far, far back to those 
 whom I had left. A second melody came floating over 
 the ripple- wave as the band continued its ever-melancholy 
 and subdued strains, on their brass instruments. I had 
 placed my elbow upon the tafferel, and bowed my head, 
 and wept. Once more the music awoke. Now, it was 
 the evening vesper, and the bell of the ship chimed in 
 with the sacred harmony. Surely, if ever prayer sincere 
 awoke for those I love, it was borne to heaven this night. 
 
 SECTION V. 
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO. 
 
 Visit to the shore. The Morning Mass. Ramble up Rua do Cas- 
 tello. View from the hill. Imperial Chapel. Te Deum. Idem 
 in Greece. Dine with the English Chaplain. Visit to Mr. Wright. 
 The American Charge d'Affaires. Ride to the Botanical Garden. 
 Lord Hood's Nose. Museum. Doctor J. J. Prestina. Call on 
 the Chaplain of H. B. M. ship Stag. British and American Navy. 
 Commodore Read's Dinner to the English Officers. The Author 
 preaches in the English Chapel. Its worship, in contrast with 
 the scene at the Imperial Chapel. Funeral. Last evening in the 
 beautiful harbor of Rio de Janeiro. Associations. Passage out 
 the Harbor. 
 
 TO-DAY I visited the shore, with the single purpose of 
 wandering at random through the town, and to mark the 
 floating multitude of the streets, presuming that I should 
 have ample time, during our stay at Rio, to analyze the 
 peculiarities of the people, and observe for rny own gra- 
 tification at least, their institutions, and public and domestic 
 economy. It is said to be a difficult thing for a foreigner 
 
 10 
 
110 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to gain access to the Brazilian families. But I apprehend 
 the difficulty only lies in the want of an acquaintance 
 with the Portuguese language, and of letters of introduc- 
 tion from mutual friends. 
 
 The first thing which strikes the stranger as he steps 
 upon the shore at Rio, is the immense number of slaves 
 engaged in the labors of carrying the merchandise of the 
 country, apparently native-born Africans ; and then, the 
 many well-dressed mixed bloods, and equivocal bloods, 
 and many unequivocal blacks, well-dressed, and all, ap- 
 parently, constituting part of the free and bona fide society 
 of the city. And now and then you see a well-dressed 
 female of the same equivocal relationships, with a shawl 
 or a veil elevated upon a wide and high comb, and drop- 
 ping upon the shoulders. 
 
 The dark-faced slaves are hurrying on at the rate of a 
 slow trot, in small squads, with bags of coffee or other 
 burdens, on their heads, which they are bearing to the 
 boats of loading vessels, or to the storehouses for deposit. 
 Then, you mark the Frenchman, of darker complexion 
 than of northern climes, and the purer blooded and lighter 
 faced Brazilian-Portuguese and now, an Englishman 
 and now an American, with their usual and several char- 
 acteristics. A moment more, and by you dashes a small 
 vehicle, with the proportions of an old-fashioned gig for 
 its top, and the ponderous wheels of a stage-coach for its 
 rollers, attached to four mules, with a black in livery, upon 
 the fore nigh animal, wearing a high leather cap resem- 
 bling a fire bucket bottom upwards, with a red flannel or 
 velvet band about it, and with boots that come above the 
 knees, and a pair of spurs, for all the world, like the end- 
 iron of the tongue of an ox-cart, for its weight and propor- 
 tions. Heaven forfend us from such an equipage, exclaims 
 one, as he hops into the door of the neighboring shop as 
 the nondescript passes by him, to the endangering of the 
 limb and life of the foot-passenger through these pent up 
 and narrow streets. These vehicles, however, are not 
 frequent, and are generally the establishments afforded 
 one from the livery stables. Again you meet, as before, 
 another line of half a dozen blacks, with bags of coffee 
 on their heads, trotting through the street at the monoto- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. Ill 
 
 nous sound of their leader's voice, in which at intervals, 
 and as a chorus, they all join ; or, at the sound of a jing- 
 ling basket, which some one of the group carries beside 
 his ponderous burden, and shakes with his right or left 
 hand, as he angles his naked elbows in common with his 
 fellows. From every pore issues the free perspiration, 
 and streams, in no very small rivulets, down their bony 
 and naked shoulders and shining backs. 
 
 I wandered up the Rua do Castello to the top of the hill, 
 upon which an olden castle once stood, and where the 
 wrecks of the fortification still exist. From this point the 
 whole bay is commanded the range of conic mountains 
 on the east, north, and west the city of Prior Grande op- 
 posite Rio and the greater part of the city of Rio itself 
 at your feet. The view is very fine. But the poetry of 
 this beautiful hill itself, as one contemplates it from the 
 ship, vanishes when one has ascended to its top. The ba- 
 nana and the cocoa-nut tree, and occasional shrubs, seen 
 from the bay, as they stud the hill and seem to embower 
 the buildings as they rise one above another, no longer 
 conceal the ruins, and the rubbish, and the old walls, and 
 the olden everything, as you look into the miserable yards 
 of the dwellings in the neighborhood beneath you. But 
 as you gaze over the city, and on the bay, and on the sur- 
 rounding amphitheatre of mighty mountains, which inhem 
 the vast basin of the harbor, like a mountain-lake, sprink- 
 led with ships of war from almost all the navies of the 
 earth, and with merchantmen of every nation and people 
 whalers, and slavers, and traders resting on their several 
 errands you have a charm which compensates for the lost 
 vision, which the eye had taken in when contemplating 
 the Castle Hill from the deck of the Columbia. 
 
 Towards evening, I went to the imperial chapel, a 
 building with high ceiling, and a range of private boxes 
 in the upper story, so arranged as to allow the occupant 
 to contemplate the ceremonies and the crowds below, and 
 hung in front with drawing curtains. The building is 
 decorated, as usual, with Catholic images, which, so far as 
 I have yet seen, are ever disgusting to good taste, being 
 generally composed of wax or painted wood, dusty and 
 tinselled, and decorated with robes and halos in such a 
 
112 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 manner that one would suppose that no eye but the rab- 
 ble's could regard them as ornamental. None of the 
 buildings of Rio, and least of all the imperial palace, can 
 boast any thing as specimens in architecture. The palace 
 is but an extension of only tolerably decent private dwell- 
 ings. 
 
 A single individual was within the silent building as I 
 entered the vacant and solitary nave of the church, and 
 advanced up to the far-in altar. The tapers were burn- 
 ing brightly, but no whisper was heard within the spacious 
 walls, and the solitary individual stood listless in a cross- 
 passage, which led into the interior of the building to ad- 
 jacent rooms. I passed him, and advanced within the 
 railing of the altar, and opened the quarto volume con- 
 taining the services of the church. It was not unaccept- 
 able to turn at once to the familiar and beautiful Te Deum, 
 which carried me back to other hours, though I perused 
 it in the language of its original : 
 
 TE DEUM LAUDAMUS. 
 
 Te Deum laudamus ; te Dominum confitemur. 
 
 Te aeternum Patrem ; omnis terra veneratur. 
 
 Tibi omnes Angeli ; tibi coeli, et universae potestates : 
 
 Tibi Cherubim et Seraphim ; incessabili voce proclamant, 
 
 Sanctus, Sanctus, Sanctus, Dominus Deus Sabaoth. 
 
 Pleni sunt coeli et terra, majestatis gloriae tuae. 
 
 Te, gloriosus Apostolorum chorus ; 
 
 Te, Prophetarum laudabilis numerus ! 
 
 Te, Martyrum candidatus laudat exercitus. 
 
 Te, per orbem terrarum, sancta confitetur Ecclesia. 
 
 Patrem immensae majestatis ; 
 
 Venerandum tuum verum et unicum Filium. 
 
 Sanctum quoque Paracletum Spiritum. 
 
 Tu Rex gloriae, Christe. 
 
 Tu Patris sempitemus et Filius. 
 
 Tu ad liberandum suscepturus hominem ; non horruisti Virginus 
 uterum. 
 
 Tu devicto mortis aculeo ; aperuisti credentibus regna ccelorum. 
 
 Tu ad dexteram Dei sedes, in gloria Patris. 
 
 Judex crederis esse venturus. 
 
 Te ergo qusesumus, tuis famulis subveni ; quos pretioso sanguine 
 redemisti. 
 
 ^Eterna fac cum sanctis tuis ! in gloria numerari. 
 
 Salvum fac populum tuum Domine ; et benedic haereditati tuse. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 113 
 
 Et rege eos ; et extolle illos usque in seternum. 
 Per singulos dies, benedicimus te 
 
 Et lauctemus nomen tuum in saeculum, et in saeculum saeculi. 
 Dignare Domine die isto, sine peccato nos custodire. 
 Miserere nostri Domine ; miserere nostri. 
 
 Fiat misericordia tua Domine super nos, quemadmodum speravi- 
 mus in te. 
 
 In te Domine speravi ; non confunda in aeternum.* 
 
 A sharp, hissing sound, which I knew to come from the 
 solitary individual before alluded to, reached my ear as 
 an admonition for attention, when he beckoned that others 
 were approaching; and in a moment afterwards, eight or 
 ten priests, in their appropriate robes, entered from the 
 passage-way leading from the interior of the building. I 
 retained my place until they had approached, when, with 
 a mutual salutation, I passed them, and took my place 
 
 * Idem in Greece. 
 
 Ze Qtbv 'Y/t*o8jicv. 
 
 St % Qfbv Vfivovfjiev, at TOV Kvptov fytoAoyotty/ev. 
 
 y^l TOV aluviov HaTfoa iraaa q yrj ai/icTai. 
 
 Kal wdvTcs ol "AyysAot 0wj>wff (Jo&ai, col ol oupavo?, Kal iraaai al 
 
 aiiTujv. 
 
 Sot Ta Xepovftln Kal Stpa^i/x aKaTatravaw (puvrj fK$oG>aiv t 
 "Ayios, ayios, "ayios Kvptos b 0oj 2a/?MW0. 
 IlAr/pEt? ol ovpavol, ical '/ yr\ TTJS [tya\i6rr}ros r>js &6&S aov. 
 2f b i>Soos r&v ' A.iroaT6\<av xopoff &VV/JLVSI. 
 i'e 1 b rui KpoQriTGiv d^o-irpeirfis avAAoyoj avvpvei. 
 Xe & TU>V Maprvpwi/ yevalo? orpardj dvvfivei. 
 2f dva naffav rriv oiKov^fvrjv fj 'A.yia 6/xoXoyet 'EKK\t)<r(a. 
 Tlartpa rrj$ dircpdvrov nya\i6TrjTo$. 
 Tbv T fff^dfffjiidv ffov d^nOri Kal ftovoyevrj 'Yt6v. 
 Kat i*i "aytov ITvcS/ia rb 
 
 Sti TOV ITarpdf Attiios (i7rapx | 'Yirff. 
 
 2w tirtxupijaas Xvrpw<7oo-0at rdv avdpUTrov, otiK fft8\v!-<>) Tijv TTJS irapQivov 
 
 yaaripa. 
 2 viKtjffas TOV QavaTov TO KevTpov jjvoi%as irdari roTj TrtcrroTj T>JV 
 
 TWV ovpav&v. 
 
 2t> fK dtl-i&v TOV QEOV KaBfiffat lv TJJ o6t-rj TOV Harprff. 
 Xf KpiTrjv fowir fi^tiv iiaTtbontv. 
 2oD TOIVVV foityufla roTj <ro?j olKiTatf /3o>?0i, ols TW rt/tt'w ao 
 
 iiroi)f ev Ty alwviw 66%rj ro?j Ayt'oif aov avvapi6nr]0l}vai. 
 2w<rov TOV \a6v aov Ko'pa, Kal m\6yroov TIJV K^rjpovofjtiav aov, 
 Ilofyavov airouj, Kal lirapov airroOs ij Toi)j alwvas. 
 Ko0 iKdaTrjv fipfpav ncyaXf/oftiv at. 
 
 Kai -npoaKwovntv ry <5i/(5^arf aov tj'j TOV al&va, Kal dg TOV al&va TO 
 Kt5pt ava/iapnyrovj (j>v\daauv finds afyEpov. 
 
 . KJptE, fafijero* j f //xaj. 
 
 ^ TO eXeos aov 1$' ;^of, KaOdnep r\\Tiioanev iirl <ro(. 
 
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114 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 without the altar. One of their number perceiving that I 
 had been perusing their formulas on the stand in the cen- 
 tre of the enclosure, said that they were about to repeat 
 the service. I therefore waited to listen to it, as their 
 solitary auditor. They went through the vespers with 
 distinct and rotund voices, now responding to each other, 
 and now mingling their several voices together, and again 
 chanting, as is their custom, parts of the service orally. 
 There was no music. When they were through, I ap- 
 proached a priest who seemed to be one of the superiors, 
 and addressed him in Latin. 
 
 It appeared to me peculiar, and yet not uninteresting, 
 that the priests had gathered here for their evening ves- 
 pers, with the doors opened for those who chose to enter 
 to say their evening prayers with them. But none came; 
 and why should the mass of the people gather, to listen 
 to what they cannot comprehend, and where it requires 
 a bell to tell them the time and the place they are required 
 to kneel ? 
 
 As I left the imperial chapel, to which I understood 
 there are a certain number of priests attached, and who 
 must all be of noble extraction, and, here, are alone enti- 
 tled to wear the red stocking, I stopped on my way 
 through the Rua do Ouvedor, in a respectable bookstore, 
 and was pleased with the motto in gilded letters above 
 their shelves : 
 
 " Vita sine litturis, mors est." 
 
 I thought, in connection with the scene I had but a 
 few moments previously left, that it was equally true, that 
 
 Religio, sine vita, mors eterna est. 
 
 During the earlier part of the day, scarcely a female 
 of the higher order of the Brazilians is to be seen in the 
 streets. In the evening, however, they promenade gen- 
 erally with their attendants without bonnets or veils. 
 
 I took a shore-boat to the frigate, as I had delayed be- 
 yond the hour for the sundown boat. It was nine o clock 
 when I neared the ship. The music was just rolling off 
 the tattoo. I ordered the oarsmen to rest upon their oars. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 115 
 
 In a moment, a red sheet of flame came from the bows 
 of the Columbia, and the report of the nine o'clock gun 
 sent its echo around the panoramic hills, as if an answer- 
 ing cannon had returned its voice from a dozen peaks. 
 
 The boatmen again applied their sculls, and " Boat 
 ahoy !" came as an authoritative hail, from the tafferel of 
 the frigate. " Ay, ay," was the reply ; and in a moment 
 more the lanterns were at the gangway and side of the 
 ship, to light one to the deck of the Columbia. 
 
 I dined on the 13th with the English Chaplain, attached 
 to the British delegation on shore, and met the Chaplain 
 of H. B. Majesty's ship Stag at the table, and some other 
 of the English officers. The Gloria Hill, where the house 
 of Mr. M., the Chaplain, is situated, is an exquisite spot. 
 The view from his piazza is very beautiful, commanding, 
 with still greater interest than from Castle Hill, the view 
 of the surrounding scenery, so picturesque, and beautiful, 
 and grand, and varied, in its complex particulars, as al- 
 ready described. 
 
 On the preceding evening, I visited at Mr. Wright's, 
 an estimable American family, where most of the Ameri- 
 can society were gathered. Mr. Hunter, the Charge 
 d' Affaires, was present, with other members of his family. 
 He is a gentleman of agreeable manners, and read in 
 polite literature. Miss H., his interesting daughter, is de- 
 servedly admired for her chaste beauty and simplicity of 
 manners. " Kate" her father says, she is called at home, 
 (Miss H. of course abroad,) and all of her acquaintances 
 will ever after affirm that " Kate " is a very pretty dimin- 
 utive. Mr. Hunter promises me the perusal of some 
 choice papers of the date of Charles the Second, on the 
 return of our squadron, which are in the imperial library. 
 I have seen, since the evening of the American party, two 
 other ladies of the clan de I'Amerique, and their acquaint- 
 ance increases rather than diminishes my interest in the 
 American society of Rio ; and from one I shall bear, as a 
 decoration of my little room, a choice plant, in memory 
 of the donor, and as one of nature's prodigal distributers 
 of the rich perfumes of flowers. 
 
116 
 
 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 RIDE TO THE BOTANICAL GARDEN. 
 
 The botanical garden is deemed one of the principal 
 lions of Rio, distant some five or six miles in the country. 
 Lieutenant G. of the Fairfield having made all due pre- 
 parations for a ride thither, I left the ship at ten o'clock in 
 the morning ; and found our carriage in waiting to take 
 us a ride into the country. We preceded the Commodore, 
 Captain M. and Lieutenant P., who reached the garden 
 soon after ourselves. Our ride lay along the beautiful 
 little bay of Boto Fogo, lined on its curved shore by a 
 number of English residences, the German minister's, and 
 some pretty Brazilian country-seats. The sugar-loaf 
 mount at the entrance of the harbor of Rio, forms a prom- 
 inent point to the scenery of this beautiful little crescent 
 of "water, as its high peak and base mark the eastern ter- 
 mination of the curved line of the basin. Its stilly bosom 
 and surrounding eminences on this morning of our ride, 
 reminded me of some of the still-calm scenes amid the 
 scenery of Lake George. The Corcovado, the highest 
 mount, so deemed, of all the surrounding peaks of this 
 mountainous landscape, was above our head son our right, 
 as we drove on through the pathway, lined on either side 
 with the cocoa-nut and banana and tamarind trees, and 
 partly on our left and often in our front rose the peculiar 
 prominence, which, as I deemed it as seen from the ocean, 
 constitutes " Lord Hood's Nose," so much spoken of by 
 all who enter the harbor of Rio, and which astonishingly 
 resembles the face of a strong-featured man lying upon 
 his back, as you approach the land to enter the harbor. 
 But the face, to me, is not the only or hardly the most 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 117 
 
 striking appearance lined on the horizon, by the blending 
 of the peaks of the highlands, which raise their elevated 
 cones and table mountains in the skies, and strike with 
 pleasure the eye of the voyager as he is approaching the 
 inlet to the expanded basin, constituting the harbor of Rio 
 de Janeiro. All of the prominences to which I have 
 alluded, are so blended with intervening and lower moun- 
 tains, as, together, to form the striking resemblance (if 
 such realities ever were) of a huge giant one of nature 's 
 olden monsters, laid out, with his face upwards, and em- 
 balmed in eternal rock. There you see him, his forehead 
 slanting and low, with his hair combed back his nose 
 prominent, between Roman and the Aquiline then, his 
 small chin and short neck then, his elevated chest, with 
 his arms folded for his last embalmment then, his ex- 
 tendejl limbs, with the prominent eminence of the sugar- 
 loaf mount, 1,000 feet high, constituting his up-turned 
 feet, and in just keeping with the other proportions of this 
 immense phenomenon of ages back, till now, with this 
 evidence before us, believed to have been fabulous. And 
 there he lies, as seen from the ship, as she stands on her 
 course to the nearing land, looking at the blue heavens, 
 and listless to the roar of ocean, and the storm, and the 
 whirlwind, and the sea-gale ; and there he shall still lie, 
 until one mightier than he shall sound the trump of the 
 last angel, and burst in sunder and wild dismemberment, 
 his sarcophagus of imperishable granite. 
 
 Our ride, the remaining part of the way from Boto 
 Fogo, was less interesting but possessing variety. We 
 reached the garden after an hour's drive, and having order- 
 ed dinner, entered the grounds, to wander at leisure through 
 avenues and by-paths of the garden, to observe the col- 
 lected exotics as well as native plants, shrubs, and trees, 
 and yet more for myself, the taste with which the grounds 
 were laid out all of which we had been assured to be of 
 considerable interest, and promised much pleasure to the 
 new observer. 
 
 The grounds which compose the garden are irregular, 
 and form a flat near the beach and beneath the mountain 
 previously alluded to, called the Corcovado. At the en- 
 trance of the gateway, a segment of a small circle is 
 
118 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLP. 
 
 swept, with the gate as the centre of the circle, from the 
 convex part of which four or five avenues extend, in 
 straight lines, which constitute all the peculiarity of the 
 taste here displayed in the adjustment of the walks. The 
 paths run, afterwards, as convenience directs, through the 
 grounds, joining the main avenues. There is an annual 
 appropriation for the improvement of these grounds, but 
 they are any thing rather than what we would suppose 
 they should be, in a climate and soil of such capabilities ; 
 and the grounds only in their central parts evince much 
 care. There is a tasteful bower, however, which meets 
 the eye of the stranger in his promenade, and courts him 
 to enter within its ever-green walls. It is elevated on an 
 artificial and turfed mound, some twelve to fifteen feet 
 high. The bower is a parallelogram, and formed by the 
 inlacing of the branches of the arbor vitae trees, with 
 glassless windows inserted in each pallisade of the trees, 
 so as to form an opening for observation, and for the sweet 
 gales of the garden to quaver through, to fan the cheek 
 of the lady-visiter, or to give breath to her rougher com- 
 panion who may attend her ; or to render yet more pleas- 
 ant the pick-nick coteries which, they say, often ride from 
 town, and here take their lunch, and chat all manner of 
 gentle and kind words. You ascend to the entrance of 
 this ever-green bower by a flight of steps cut on a trunca- 
 ted triangle of earth, which, like the mound on which the 
 bower is raised, is overgrown with perennial grass. 
 
 And in the same neighborhood, beneath two large tufts 
 of cane, rising high and gracefully, and branching out their 
 tops like some mighty plume of mighty knight, is a swing, 
 in which all who wish once more to live over one scene 
 of their childhood, may go on the gentle sweep, and think 
 how different are the days of our childhood, from those 
 when we are called to gaze abroad on a wild world, and 
 to buffet its wild waves. 
 
 We saw in the garden a number of the tropical plants 
 and trees new to us, and others, from other climes, which 
 before we had not seen. The tea shrub was growing in 
 considerable areas, and at this time was in blossom. The 
 shrub was about three feet high, and cultivated in hills of 
 a few shoots each. Then there was the clove and tho 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 119 
 
 cinnamon tree, and the coffee tree, the bread tree and the 
 jack-fruit, which last is a striking thing, the tree growing 
 as large as a forest oak, and the iru.it hanging from a stem 
 that projects directly from the body of the tree or from 
 the largest limb; and growing to the size of a half-bushel 
 Basket, though generally elongated and flattened, rather 
 than perfectly globular. 
 
 There were many other fruits, which it cannot be of 
 interest here to name or describe. 
 
 We wandered through the grounds again, and left the 
 garden for the little building in the neighborhood, kept 
 as a hotel. To our surprise, the comfortable essentials 
 of a good meal were spread before us, after some delay 
 our party now being constituted of the Commodore, Capt. 
 M. and four others. Having nought else to do, a long 
 time was lingered away at the table, (some two hours or 
 more horrible !) but rendered tolerable in the lounging 
 ease of the gentlemen who composed it, and the succession 
 of unexpected tastefuls which came before us. Our attend- 
 ants themselves did not entirely deny us a pleasure, as it 
 was all so unexpected. " Take care there, Jose Maria 
 Cavallo, don't shake that bottle of port as you did the 
 other." Don Jose Maria, etc. etc., taking the hint, thought 
 he understood it, and, as if it had been champaign wine 
 or spruce beer, deemed he was making it yet more spark- 
 ling and choice, by adding greater agitation to the shak- 
 ing he again gave the bottle. 
 
 Our two carriages drove into town; and as we rattled 
 over the horrible pavements, the dark, and the dark, and 
 the DARK Brazilians looked from their balconies and upper 
 windows at the Americans ofthefrigata and the corvetta, 
 as it was the evening hour, when they are privileged to 
 gaze on the passers by, and be stared at, without displeas- 
 ure or displeasing of either party. 
 
 On a succeeding day I visited the Museum, which is 
 opened gratis for the people, twice a week. I did not ex- 
 pect to find a large or a greatly varied collection. Neither 
 the display of birds nor minerals was such as might have 
 been looked for in other days of Brazil. The specimens, 
 however, in mineralogy were respectable, though very 
 far inferior in variety, beauty, and arrangement, to the 
 
120 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 cabinet at New Haven. It is said that Don Pedro I. rob- 
 bed the Museum of its choicest and richest materials, 
 when he left the country. Don Pedro II. is yet a lad of 
 twelve or fourteen years of age, and though said to be a 
 bright boy for his years, will probably have enough of 
 turmoil, when he shall have reached the age to take his 
 position for himself in the relations of the state parties, 
 to occupy his time for the safety of his crown, to the 
 neglect of the improvement of the public institutions of 
 his imperial dominions. As evidence of the brightness 
 of young Pedro, I was told by Doctor Prestina, a Portu- 
 guese gentleman of learning, that he was familiar with 
 the French language, and had made considerable profi- 
 ciency in the English and Latin ; and had advanced in 
 mathematics, and read a good deal in history. 
 
 When I had wandered through the upper rooms of the 
 Museum, which are small, and exhibit but few curiosities, 
 I left them and entered an under apartment of the same 
 building. This lower room contained a few specimens in 
 mechanics, where a few visiters, like myself, were now 
 strolling. I saw nothing, however, particularly to arrest 
 my attention but a case of books and an atlas (a London 
 copy) of the comparative heights and extent of the dif- 
 ferent water-falls of the globe. I had placed myself in an 
 examining posture, but the atlas was hung too high for 
 convenience, which the attentive person in charge of the 
 rooms observing, presented himself, and immediately spread 
 the atlas before me on a table. I placed my finger on the 
 Falls of Niagara, with some remarks connected with it, 
 when a soft voice at my side asked, " And have you, sir, 
 seen the Falls of Niagara ?" with an intonation that at once 
 told me that it was not native. 
 
 " Yes, madam," I replied, as I turned and beheld a 
 young English lady leaning upon the arm of a gentleman- 
 ly looking man ; " and I left them," I continued, " as I 
 would part with a newly formed acquaintance, who had 
 greatly contributed to my pleasure delighted that we had 
 met, and regretting that we were so soon to separate." 
 
 " My sister," continued the lady, " is now in the United 
 States, and gives me such glowing accounts of what she 
 meets, that I envy her the fortune to have enjoyed before 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 121 
 
 me the opportunity of visiting North America. If I might 
 induce my lord here," said the lady, gently smiling, and 
 myself and her lord gently bowing, " we should not long 
 delay our passage to the United States." 
 
 All Englishmen, and certainly all English women, are 
 not prejudiced against the United States. And the time 
 has come when they are pleased if they can identify their 
 own genealogies as kindred with those of the early wor- 
 thies of our country. 
 
 A letter from a Portuguese gentleman of Madeira, made 
 me acquainted with J. J. Prestina, a doctor of learning 
 at Rio de Janeiro. He visited our ship, with a friend, 
 and pressed me to accept an invitation to accompany him, 
 on any day of our stay, to his seat in the country. I have 
 postponed this, with other visits, until a good Providence 
 may return us to this port again, on our way back to our 
 northern homes. Dr. P. is a happy specimen of a Portu- 
 guese gentleman, surpassed by few for ease and urbanity 
 of manners. He is said to have accumulated a fortune in 
 the practice of law ; and in the revolution of Portugal of 
 1823, when many of her choice sons had no alternative 
 but to fly to arms or to exile, he visited Brazil. With 
 this gentleman, I hope, on my return, to take several ex- 
 cursions into the surrounding country, and to the neigh- 
 boring islands, which are said to be exquisite in their 
 scenery, and rich in their high state of cultivation. 
 
 The Chaplain of H. B. Majesty's ship Stag having call- 
 ed upon me, I reciprocated his visit, and was invited to 
 take a stroll with him and some of the officers of the Stag, 
 to Prior Grande. They would send a boat for me. 
 
 Between England and America, there doubtless will 
 ever be the memory of former incidents, to serve to keep 
 alive the spirit of jealousy between the two nations, with 
 a spice of envy on the part of the British people. The 
 English had ruled mistress of the seas, until their prow- 
 ess was fairly contested, in several actions, by our own 
 vessels. The English can hardly be expected to yield a 
 concession on this point which would take them one step 
 from their self-complacent and proud elevation. And 
 Americans believe, and without doubt have proved to their 
 own satisfaction, and to that of the world, that they are a 
 
 11 
 
122 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 match perhaps in their young thirst for glory, more than 
 a match for the English, with equal forces. These cir- 
 cumstances sometimes produce, if not a coolness yet a 
 preserved distance, in the association between American 
 and British officers ; while there is, at the same time, no 
 asperity or unkindness of feeling on the part of either. It 
 only prevents the approach of the two parties. But when 
 they do meet and know each other, there is no want of 
 cordiality in real feeling, or generous hospitality, and fa- 
 miliar and well-bred courtesy. 
 
 On the evening preceding our departure from the har- 
 bor of Rio de Janeiro, Commodore Read gave a dinner 
 to the English officers in command of the British ships, 
 now in the harbor. Commodore Sulivan has command 
 of the British squadron on this side Cape Horn ; and an 
 Admiral commands the squadron on the other. Former- 
 ly the forces on either side of the Cape were under the 
 command of an Admiral, stationed on this side the Cape, 
 with a Commodore, subject to his orders, on the other 
 side. The two forces are now independent commands. 
 
 Commodore Sulivan is an agreeable gentleman, and 
 made himself such on the present occasion ; and Captain 
 Shepherd I found sociable. He is deemed an officer very 
 creditably familiar with his profession. 
 
 The Commodore's table-plate, and well-served dishes, 
 always do him credit as a man of taste ; and becomingly 
 supports the respectability of the government, whom he 
 represents in his honorable commands. 
 
 Previous to our leaving the harbor of Rio de Janeiro, 
 I preached in the English chapel. The congregation was 
 very respectable. The English chaplain who has charge 
 of the congregation, and the chaplain of the Stag, were 
 present the former reading the service. 
 
 It is indeed a grateful opportunity, when abroad, after 
 having been for months on board a ship, to be able to 
 mingle in your own familiar worship of home, on shore. 
 They are the same prayers to which you have often lis- 
 tened with a melted heart ; or which you yourself have 
 offered, as the leader in the petitions of hundreds of 
 others the same responses, and the same psalms, and the 
 same chants, and the same hymns. The heart goes home 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 123 
 
 to kindred and to native lands ; and if rightly affected, 
 goes upward too in devout devotion and gratitude to Him, 
 who hath blessed and protected the wanderer on his course 
 of the seas. 
 
 The modifications in our prayer-book, in which it differs 
 from the English service, strike the worshipper of the 
 American church, but interrupts not his devotion. It is 
 but natural that the English should pray for their rulers, 
 though it appears peculiar that they should mention them 
 by name. And in the modification of some of the old ob- 
 solete terms, the omission of some things, and leaving 
 others discretionary on the part of the American clergy- 
 man, where they are required to be gone through on the 
 part of the English, I deem to be in favor of the Ameri- 
 can prayer-book. And yet there could be very little 
 objection for an American clergyman of the Episcopal 
 church, to go through the services of the mother-church, 
 before an English congregation, on English ground. 
 
 Dr. Hazlet and Lieutenant Turner accompanied me 
 from the ship to the English chapel. On our return we 
 stopped, as we were passing, for a moment, in the impe- 
 rial chapel. The services were nearly concluding. The 
 music was powerful. Here they have two or three eu- 
 nuchs from Italy, whose voices mingle with peculiar 
 effect in the choir. The crowd were jammed together, 
 blacks and whites, and all sorts of the males. The pri- 
 vate openings in the second story on the sides of the 
 building, alluded to on a preceding page, were filled with 
 Brazilian women, without bonnets, who composed the 
 household of the Emperor and other Brazilian families. 
 Many of them were respectable for their personal ap- 
 pearance, and all dressed with becoming taste. Rockets 
 and other fire-works were already arranged in the street, 
 at the door of the chapel, with which to conclude the 
 ceremonies of a Christian worship ! We had left the build- 
 ing, and had proceeded but a short distance on our way 
 to our boat, which was in waiting for us from the ship, 
 when the match had been applied, to the bursting of 
 rockets and other fire- works ; and the loud reports of the 
 exploding crackers, and the feu-de-joie, exhibited a scene, 
 which we could not but identify with the whole service, 
 
124 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 as a fanciful show a religious farce gone through for 
 the amusement of the people. 
 
 How unlike the simple, suppressed, solemn worship of 
 the Eternal, in which we had just been engaged ! The 
 Lord was not in the whirlwind, nor in the earthquake, 
 nor in the fire : but in " the still small voice" And when 
 the prophet heard it, he wrapped his face in his mantle.* 
 It is now loo late, in this age of free inquiry, with the 
 materials which have been spread before us, and the 
 scenes which are yet daily enacting in Catholic countries, 
 to pretend an apology, as if there were in the mummeries 
 and in the religious farces of the papal ceremonies, a ten- 
 dency to pure morality and " religion undefiled." In our 
 own country, the Catholic religion, for the sake of appear- 
 ances and decency, must omit much which is seen abroad. 
 It is a notorious fact, in connection with Madeira and this 
 place, that the people have so far felt the unhappy influ- 
 ences of the monastic institutions, as to make them a 
 subject of legislation and restriction. And common re- 
 port everywhere says, that the celibacy of the corrupted 
 priesthood has made inroads upon the domestic peace, 
 and harmony, and virtue of the social compact. And in 
 affirming these things, which modern Catholic legislatures 
 have themselves affirmed, and in some measure acted 
 upon, the Protestant is declared to be prejudiced, perse- 
 cuting, and illiberal. Pray, are there none but Protestant 
 persecutors in the world of Christendom ? Until within 
 comparatively a few years, the right of Christian sepul- 
 ture was forbidden, in the countries where Papacy had 
 the ascendency. And now, I am told, that the English 
 chapel here is precluded from holding their worship with 
 the doors of their church shut. And when I see the mem- 
 bers of that church rather inclining to join the reviler and 
 the blasphemer against the cause of Protestant missions, 
 and other institutions under Protestant influences, I am 
 led to question the soundness of a system, which will lead 
 to the union of sympathies so unlike the spirit and the 
 professed end of the religion of Jesus Christ. For my- 
 self, I should be most happy that the Roman church, or 
 
 * 1 Kings xix. 11-13, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 125 
 
 the Catholic church, as they rather choose to be called, 
 in our country, should, as they have in some measure, 
 reform their system, retaining the good and rejecting 
 the bad ; and adhering less closely (which both patri- 
 otism and religion require) to the Papacy at Rome. The 
 Catholic church in the United States is respectable in 
 numbers, character, and we would be uncharitable indeed 
 not to suppose, in some good degree, in Christian influ- 
 ence. But there is an incubus in her system a draw- 
 back to all the good. There is ignorance of the Bible, 
 and premeditated ignorance on the part of those whose 
 duty it is, according to the charter of all our hopes, to 
 dispense " the word" to their flocks, which is able to 
 make, and which will make, wise unto salvation. And 
 so long as the Bible shall be kept from the laity, there 
 will be and there must be something bad existing in the 
 premises, and a perpetual wandering from the essentials 
 and the spirit of the gospel system. It has been so it 
 will be so. It is necessary to the existence of the truth, 
 in its purity, that the Bible should be in the hands of both 
 the people and the pastors, that the example of both may 
 be tested by a common and the acknowledged standard. 
 
 A FUNERAL IN RIO. 
 
 I have taken my last ride out of Rio, with Lieutenant 
 G. of the Fairfield. We went to the Emperor's country- 
 residence, and also called on most of the American fami- 
 lies of Rio. Their residences are in the neighborhood 
 of the Emperor's grounds, a short way into the country. 
 Our ride was exceedingly pleasant, and our calls agree- 
 able to ourselves at least. In the evening we took tea at 
 the Wrights', and prolonged our stay in the social circle 
 of this amiable family. To-day, the last we spend in the 
 harbor of Rio for a long, long time, I witnessed on shore, 
 at four P. M., a funeral ceremony of considerable mag- 
 nificence ; and, as characteristic of the customs of this 
 people, is worthy of a nota bene. It was imposing, and 
 fully attended. I was aware that the solemnities of a 
 burial were to take place, from the ringing of the bells of 
 the large cathedral situated on the east side of the square, 
 
 11* 
 
126 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 into which the Rua do Ouvedor, the principal street of 
 Rio de Janeiro, enters. The hearse, drawn by four white 
 horses, with high plumes of black feathers decking their 
 head-stalls, had already reached the front of the building, 
 where a crowd was gathered, when I arrived at the steps 
 of the cathedral. I entered the door of the building, 
 w r here numbers had arranged themselves in two lines 
 leading from the far-in altar, with each a waxen taper in 
 his hand, which served him as a staff. As I passed, one 
 of these lighted sticks of wax, reaching quite to the 
 shoulder, and about two inches in diameter, was handed 
 to me, and I advanced up the line of lights to a vacant 
 position nearest the altar. As I looked down to the en- 
 trance of the cathedral, the two lines of similar tapers, 
 each supported by its holder, gave forth a continuous 
 gleam of light, streaming on either side in a brilliant pe- 
 riphery of an elongated ellipsis. In a few moments, from 
 an adjacent recess, which communicated with an interior 
 passage, entered three richly decorated priests, in the ha- 
 biliments of their order, the central one supporting a mas- 
 sive silver cross, and the two on either side bearing a taper 
 light in massive silver candlesticks. They advanced 
 with twenty priests following them, with lighted waxen 
 tapers in their hands, to meet the corpse at the entrance of 
 the cathedral. A number of the priests I had before seen 
 at the imperial chapel. They were now decked in short 
 robes of white lace, falling, like a roundabout, a little be- 
 low their shoulders, upon a lower robe of black. Beside 
 these, were thirty or forty attendants in black bombazine 
 canonicals, whose province seemed immediately to bear 
 the corpse and perform the laborious parts of the burial. 
 They all together advanced, with the coffin, overlaid with 
 gold lace, to a high altar raised without the chancel, and 
 highly gilded, seven feet long and three in breadth, upon 
 which the deceased was placed. The services of the 
 burial commenced by the chief priest, who had borne the 
 silver cross in the procession. The responses were loud 
 and rotund. As the coffin was elevated upon the altar, it 
 fell apart, by its peculiar construction, opening from the 
 top, by means of the split-lid, and dropping either way, 
 by hinges on either side, so as to expose half the body, 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 127 
 
 dressed in its usual habiliments. The chief ecclesiastic 
 moved thrice around the body, sprinkling, from a silver 
 wand, the holy water upon the body, as he passed at the 
 head, the side, the feet, and the side again, bowing to the 
 silver cross as he passed it, which was now elevated at 
 the feet of the altar, without the chancel. The ceremony 
 continued when a strain of music came from the choir, 
 now in full chorus, now in dulcet strains, now in duetto, 
 and again in a chorus that shook the walls of the massive 
 buildings ; and once more the requiem was long, and soft, 
 and silent ! 
 
 The heavy doors of a side passage were opened, and the 
 priests advanced to an inner court of death, embracing an 
 extensive area, surrounded by high walls. A colonnade 
 extended around the spacious rectangle, within which and 
 the wall a covered pavement ranges around the square, the 
 centre of which is open for light and air. The procession 
 of priests moved on, (the concourse of the spectators hav- 
 ing extinguished their lights, and retired at the conclusion 
 of the requiem in the church,) and reached the furthest 
 side of this hollow square. They paused at an open niche 
 in the wall. The wall is filled with ranges, five or six tier 
 high, of such niches, one above the other, rendering it a 
 bulwark of imbedded skeletons. Here the coffin was 
 placed upon a smaller altar, similar, but less decorated than 
 the first, standing without a rougher pair of steps, which 
 rested beneath the opening in the wall. Upon this altar 
 the coffin was first placed, by the attendants in black, who 
 had borne it from the spacious room of the cathedral to 
 this adjacent court, which forms a part of the same pile of 
 building. Then, with the repetition of a short additional 
 service, the body was elevated to the rougher platform, 
 and again the coffin fell and exposed the body ; and each 
 of the dark-robed men advancing to the steps, took a small 
 scuttle of quicklime, and ascending the steps, deposited it 
 upon the body, and again descended, to be succeeded by 
 others, until the unconscious sleeper was imbedded in the 
 element which was soon to prey in consumption upon his 
 yielding dust. It only remained, in completing the cere- 
 mony of the burial, to place the body within the vacant 
 niche of the vyall, and to seal it in masonry of lime and 
 
128 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 rock, and to affix to the external surface the number of the 
 inwalled vault. 
 
 The procession of priests returned through the church, 
 bending their knees as they passed the altar, and extin- 
 guishing their lights as they sought the inner rooms, where 
 they unrobed, and replaced their dresses, which they had 
 assumed as appropriate habiliments for the religious cere- 
 monies of the burial. 
 
 They had gone ; and their voices were heard to murmur 
 low in the inner distance of the extended building. And 
 now, all was silence. I, alone, stood in that spacious hall, 
 where but just now the peals of music echoed, and a thou- 
 sand lights were gleaming, and the tramp of many feet 
 were heard. Mine alone now lingered ; and one solitary 
 taper only was glimmering on the altar, in that vast build- 
 ing, to keep the vigils of the night-watch. 
 
 I walked through the dark passage-way to the interior 
 rooms again retraced my steps, and left the silent build- 
 ing, and was soon on my way down the Rua do Ouvedor, 
 with thoughts, solemn and strange, in their commingling 
 of emotions and sentiments, which these scenes and their 
 associations had awakened. 
 
 LAST EVE IN THE HARBOR OF RIO. 
 
 I have made the preceding notes, associated with Rio 
 de Janeiro, purposely omitting any excursions into the inte- 
 rior and to some of the neighboring islands, which, with 
 visits to some other objects and Brazilian families in the 
 neighborhood, I hope to be able to make, on my return, 
 under the favorable circumstances of intelligent and gentle- 
 manly Brazilian attendance. 
 
 But on this evening of our last stay in this beautiful har- 
 bor, how many are the associations of the past, which min- 
 gle with the present ! It is here, on the still bosom of this 
 mountain-shored basin, sleeping to-night like a calm lake 
 among the hills, where the winds cannot ruffle it, the bat- 
 tle-ships of all the early states of Europe have rode, and 
 for a moment paused on their several courses of discovery, 
 of adventure, of merchandise, of war, and of circumnavi- 
 gation of the world ! Here the daring and adventurous 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 129 
 
 Portuguese moored their tempest-tost barks, which had 
 first discovered these and hundred other shores, as the 
 pioneers on the seas, where the white-spread sails of other 
 nations are now wafted in the same, but earlier and fearful 
 tracks of the Portuguese, without solicitude, and hardly 
 with a memory of the men who pointed out to them the 
 paths of the seas. And here Magellan paused with his 
 little fleet of five ships, for a fortnight, whose name is 
 immortalized on the land, as having first passed through the 
 straits that unite the northern with the southern ocean ; 
 and among the stars, as giving an appellation to the twin 
 nebula, or the Magellan clouds in the southern hemisphere. 
 And here, in 1764, the Dolphin and the Tamor under 
 Byron in chief, and Mouat, in their circuit of discovery, 
 moored ; and De Bougainville followed, after resigning the 
 Falkland Isles into the hands of the Spanish, agreeably to 
 the order of his government. And on these same waters, 
 the energetic and accomplished, but unfortunate Cooke, 
 with his companion Banks, whose thirst for knowledge 
 was insatiable, lay moored in the good ship Endeavor. 
 And they have all passed on passed on ! And how many 
 others have come after and where now are they ? And 
 we follow them and where soon shall we be, when others 
 shall still follow us, and like ourselves, and all who have 
 gone before, shall pass to the realities, and the silence, if 
 not the forgetfulness of the dead ! But since the days of 
 Magellan, and Vasco de Gama, and Columbus, what a 
 revolution has passed over the two hemispheres of the 
 north and the south, and of the west and the east ! New 
 worlds, and fair worlds, if not in literal extent, yet in pro- 
 duction and population, have been developed; and the 
 seas of the globe have become as plain a pathway to the 
 mariner as the school-boy's track to the house of his early 
 pupilage. And to-morrow we again weigh anchors, and 
 follow on in our course. The high peaks which now sur- 
 round us, and which have reverberated the echo of the 
 cannon of almost every national flag of the earth, and have 
 heard our own loud-mouthed pieces speak more than a 
 dozen times in national courtesy and personal civilities, 
 will soon sink from their proud elevations to mole-hills, as 
 we stand on our eastern traverse. We bid ye, hi good 
 
130 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 sooth, ye lofty eminences and waved outline of cone and 
 table-mount, and organ peaks, good-by, for long months, 
 perhaps for years, perhaps for ever ! And we will not 
 forget the image which ye will have left in our vision, for 
 the grand in nature is always imposing, and commands 
 remembrance if we would forget. And kindly we will 
 think of your inwalled lake, and some who dwell in homes 
 which overlook these embosomed waters ; for we would 
 think with kindness on those who kindly have treated us. 
 May a good Providence guide us again to look upon your 
 green mountain-sides, and to re-greet the stranger friends, 
 of whom we have learned enough to desire yet more to 
 learn. 
 
 JULY 29, 1838. 
 
 We are now gliding finely out of the harbor of Rio de 
 Janeiro, to sea. The morning land-breeze is swelling our 
 sails gently, and ten boats are ahead of us, from the dif- 
 ferent ships of war in the harbor, with our own, towing 
 us beyond the mouth of the bay. A few moments more, 
 and the boats will have returned ; and the breeze, still 
 freshening, assures us that we shall gain a sufficient offing 
 before the sea-breeze shall set in, and give us a clear sweep 
 over the blue billow, from every danger of an iron-bound 
 coast. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 131 
 
 SECTION VI. 
 
 Ill, at sea. Religion everywhere a beautifier of the character. Lines An 
 invalid's thoughts of home. Gale at sea. Nature's harmonies, in color- 
 ing and adaptation. Blow, off Cape Good Hope. Luna-bow. Theo- 
 ries confirmed by experience. The variety of clouds. Island of Mada- 
 gascar. Associations on descrying the land. Beautiful rainbow. The 
 isles of France and Bourbon. Harriet Newell's last resting-place. Lines 
 to a beautiful bird, which lighted on the ship. Diego Rodriques. Henry 
 Martyn. Religion beautifies the countenance as well as the character. 
 Byron and Pollock. Corpo-Sant, or St. Elmo's light. Sunset scene in 
 the seas of Arabia. On the equatorial line at meridian. An Arabian 
 Falco. Eclipse of the moon. Calm of the Arabian seas. 
 
 For several days since our leaving Rio, I have been 
 unwell. Others of the ship have been variously affected. 
 My own indisposition has been attended with considerable 
 suffering, and is supposed to be the consequence of eating 
 too freely of the tropical fruits, found in great abundance 
 and perfection, at Rio de Janeiro. Doctor H. has treated 
 me gently, and yet I am extremely weak. For three days 
 past I have kept my state-room, while every thing has con- 
 tributed to my comfort, so far as the ship and its conveni- 
 ences can afford. Our surgeon is every thing we would 
 embrace in the gentleman, the physician, and the Christian. 
 Religion, everywhere, is a beautifier of the character, 
 refining the sensibilities of our nature. It gives a charm 
 to the social circle. It is, or should be, the very breath of 
 woman. It is the without which nothing, to the minister 
 of the gospel. But nowhere is it more fitly appropriate, 
 than in the character of the physician. He secures our 
 confidence in the exercise of his skill, and the heart is 
 softened to receive his sympathy, which never reaches the 
 perfect state of the patient's circumstances, unless the 
 heart that gives it has been touched by the gospel princi- 
 ples, which are indissolubly connected with the very being 
 of man. And advice coming from such a man, in the 
 hours of a patient's illness, is not ill-timed, or attended with 
 ill-grace. It is not ex-officio. As possessing such a charac- 
 ter, I regard our amiable and gentlemanly surgeon. 
 
132 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 But with all the comfortables of a convenient ward- 
 room, state-room, servant, provision and attendance, all 
 will be forgotten by the invalid, when much prostrated ; 
 and his thoughts will go to his far-off home. He thinks 
 of the soft hand of a mother and sister, who have at- 
 tended him in some former illness. He thinks of the 
 spacious and comfortable chamber in his father's house. 
 He will recollect the soft step the low whisper the 
 smile the caress the sympathetic expression the 
 cheerful hopes, and the encouraging voice of those who 
 love him. And then, when he had so far recovered as 
 to move from room to room, to be bolstered at the win- 
 dow in the easy-chair, to walk, for the time, in the yard, 
 on the lawn, and in the field he recurs to all these 
 scenes the delicate preparations the support of the sis- 
 ter's arm the green grass his foot first pressed the 
 refreshing fish-pond at whose side he sat the sweet or- 
 chard through which he leisurely strolled, and the bench 
 and the bower where he lounged, and the beautiful scenery 
 now rendered doubly more enchanting, on which he 
 gazed and then, when he could again bear it, the soft 
 and sweet music, which awoke for him. Some of these 
 things have been passing through my own thoughts as I 
 have reposed upon my state-room cot and mused of home 
 and scenes of other days. And could the heart but break 
 under such remembrances of kindness, and solicitude, and 
 parental and sisterly care ? And the love of home, and 
 kindred who make home the blissful spot that it is, wakes 
 more intensely in such circumstances, than ever before 
 he has known it, however sincerely he may have loved. 
 It is the voyager away and afar, musing in his hours of 
 illness, who begets in his bosom a love of home, which 
 others cannot know. He realizes, in more vivid appre- 
 ciation, the charm of those associations, which originally 
 possessed their interest on account of the pleasure they 
 had caused him to experience at the locality of his home ; 
 and all these things which have once awakened his pleas- 
 urable emotions are now reviewed with a gentler heart, 
 rendered additionally susceptible in his weaker strength 
 of body ; and he realizes with a warmer love the happy 
 circumstances of those happy hours, which have been, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 133 
 
 but now, in his absence and distance, he realizes with the 
 deepening effect, of contrast, not to be. How then, with 
 intenser love, will he greet, on his return, his forest shades, 
 the water stream, the deep ravine, the hill, and the ex- 
 tended lawn of his country home ; or the social and the 
 kindred hearts of his city residence. 
 
 If the following lines may meet the eye of one who 
 has been placed on a sick-bed, far from kindred and home, 
 the writer of them believes the reader will recognise 
 some feelings kindred to his own, however defective may 
 be the manner in which they may be embodied in the 
 accompanying measure. 
 
 AN INVALID'S THOUGHTS OF HOME. 
 
 Oh, hast thou known the sorrowing heart 
 
 Of one afar from home, 
 When pulses gush with fevered beat, 
 
 And friends around thee thou hast none ? 
 Then hast thou wept a stranger's tear 
 
 Upon thy path forlorn, 
 While musing with a wanderer's care 
 
 On scenes which memory hath of home. 
 
 'Tis then a mother's holiest love 
 
 Comes o'er thee as a spell, 
 And thoughts that burn thy bosom rove, 
 
 As memories on her kindness dwell. 
 For thou hast known the silken hand 
 
 Of mother on thy brow, 
 As like some charm of magic wand, 
 
 It soothed thy pulses' rapid flow. 
 
 Ay, dearer than ambition's hope 
 
 Is home at such an hour ; 
 And all that earth to men can ope 
 
 Hath lost for thee its wooing power ; 
 There is not then a charm in wealth, 
 
 Nor lure for thee in fame ; 
 The heart one magnet only hath, 
 
 And that is e'er remembered home. 
 
 Oh yes, it is a mother's care, 
 
 A sister's sister-love, 
 And friends at home, who offer prayer 
 
 For thy best weal and hopes above- 
 It is on them fond memories dwell, 
 
 Nor world hath charm beside ; 
 12 
 

 134 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 To them thou wouldst thy last thoughts tell 
 When gathered sadly at thy side. 
 
 O give me back, then, to my home, 
 
 Where love awaiteth me, 
 For fevered heat hath on me come, 
 
 And few, they say. my hours may be : 
 Then back, give back this heart forlorn, 
 
 And aching head of mine, 
 For I have words to speak at home, 
 
 Ere yet my life-lamp cease to shine. 
 
 And then I'd lay me in the ground, 
 
 Where sleep my kindred near, 
 That friends may gather at my mound 
 
 And shed for me affliction's tear ; 
 And say he loved as child should love, 
 
 And had a brother's heart, 
 And will their spirits guide above 
 
 When they, ere long, and earth shall part. 
 
 SOMETHING APPROACHING NEAR A STORM. 
 
 We have had fresh winds ever since we left Rio ; and 
 only on the day of our leaving the harbor have we car- 
 ried our royals. The winds have continued to increase, 
 as we have stood on our course, still more to the south 
 and east, until, for two or three days past, it has been 
 blowing a fresh gale. Our guns have been housed, royals 
 and top-gallant yards sent down, and the ship made snug 
 for the blow. It is on us. It has been sweeping over us 
 for two or three days. But to-night, the darkest wing of 
 the storm has been expanded over the heavens, and the 
 billows are heaving their heaviest throes against the bul- 
 warks of our frigate, as if they would feel her strength, 
 to know how well she will meet the contest of the 
 night. 
 
 Having been unwell for some time, though much better 
 for the last three days, I have not ventured on the upper 
 deck, as the weather has been so bad, and the winds so 
 high, and the gun-deck so wet from the water that floods 
 it, though the guns have been run in, and the ports ren- 
 dered as tight as practicable. But the gale rises, and I 
 have desired to contemplate the sea in its mad commotion, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 135 
 
 and to listen to the wild winds as they whistle through the 
 rigging of the ship, with her storm-dress upon her. To- 
 night, therefore, I attired myself for the enjoyment of the 
 opportunity, and, de pie en cap, ascended to the spar or 
 upper deck. Lieutenant P. was the officer of the deck, 
 and held the nettled courser on her path of darkness and 
 foam. I told him, as he discovered me, that I had come 
 to look at the dark eye of the gale. We talked a mo- 
 ment of the necessity of witnessing scenes of this kind 
 rightly to conceive, or to feel, or to describe them. I 
 had waited for such an opportunity to ascend the rigging 
 of the ship, and now placed myself upon the windward 
 ratlins of the mainmast. " Have a care of yourself, Mr. 
 T.," said the officer on learning my purpose, " if you fall 
 overboard, the ship cannot be hove to, to save you Zo- 
 night." " I know it I know it," I said, and left him on 
 the deck. 
 
 It was a fearful slant those masts, ever and now made, 
 as they bent to the influence of the gale and the surge 
 that rolled beneath the frigate ; but her noble hull was 
 ever true, and again the masts righted, as if to mock the 
 winged spirit of the storm, and waited exultingly for yet 
 other rencounters, in their wrestles for the mastery. And 
 those succeeding rencounters came. Ever and anon I 
 saw, far off, the terrible roller that bore down on the 
 weather-beam in its majesty, unseen only as its phospho- 
 rescent crest broke higher than the others on the dark 
 sea, ere his huge proportions struck the waiting Columbia, 
 now dashing on her way as if no antagonist greater than 
 before were nearing. But he came on in his darkness 
 and foam. And he was no boaster, that huge billow; 
 but he was met, and the triumphant ship spurned the 
 surge, as she bent to the mighty impulse, and dashed yet 
 wilder and yet grander on her way of terror, and dark- 
 ness, and mist, and whirlwind, and hurricane. Who can 
 ever forget the sea-moan of the wind, in its flight of 
 storm through the rigging of a frigate, as ours, this night, 
 bends beneath the swift and heavy passage of the aeriel 
 elements without a rag on our mizen-mast the spanker- 
 gaff down and under double-reefed foresail, close-reefed 
 main-topsail, and storm staysail ; and yet the gallant ship 
 
136 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 is leaping from surge to surge through the dark deep, 
 with thickest midnight brooding over the ocean, at the 
 rate of twelve knots the hour. What could save us were 
 we dashing on a coral reef? What could save us, were 
 we to come in contact with a. heavier mettled vessel than 
 ourselves ? And what could save the craft upon which 
 our ship this night should strike ? No one, in the wild 
 darkness that overhangs us, could descry a sail ahead, 
 nor the high peaks of an ocean-isle, nor the coast of main 
 land, nor in the roar of the tempest that rages with the 
 voice of mighty elements, catch one lisp of the loud mur- 
 murs of a coast of breakers. 
 
 I left the rigging, and wished no longer to look at the 
 fearful slant of the careening bark. How she is saved 
 from rolling irrecoverably, as her main-yard nearly sweeps 
 the careering billow, science can tell us, and science 
 only, while the eye dilates as it marks the fearful sweep 
 of the main-mast, from the dark zenith to the darker hori- 
 zon. It would seem as if there were power enough in 
 the wind and the surge, in their madness to-night, to bear, on 
 an untiring wing through mid-heaven, our heaving frigate, 
 as a god, in his might, would sport with an infant. 
 
 This is the winter season in this latitude of the south- 
 ern hemisphere, and a squall with hail hath met us. How 
 strange, in connection with all our previous experience ! 
 While our friends are burning with heat in the early part 
 of August, it being the twelfth, or enjoying the cool shade 
 of the bower that shelters them from the sun's too intense 
 beam, we are shivering, in his absence, and with the tem- 
 perature, to-day, of a northern December around us. 
 
 CAPE PIGEON. 
 
 Our ship has been driving, with great speed, on her 
 course tow r ards the Cape of Good Hope. When but a 
 few days out of Rio, we were attended by a considerable 
 number of a beautiful bird, usually called the cape pigeon. 
 It may be deemed the gull of the southern hemisphere, 
 in size resembling that graceful personification of the 
 wave and its foam, which scales nearer in to the shores 
 in the northern seas. These birds are heavier than the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 137 
 
 northern gull, their wings shorter ; and varied with tracery 
 of white feathers on their wings, giving a beautiful con- 
 trast of dark and white waved lines on either wing. 
 Their necks, though stouter, much resemble, in their hues, 
 the wild pigeon, but their legs are short, and their feet 
 webbed. One of these birds became entangled in the 
 rigging of the ship, and was taken by the men. Another 
 was ensnared by a line, thrown overboard with a bait ; 
 but the bird caught his wing in the cord and was thus 
 drawn aboard. 
 
 How beautiful is nature in all her harmonies of color- 
 ing and adaptations ! These birds, and more particularly 
 the northern gull, with its white breast, dark-brown wing, 
 and graceful flight, chime in with the waters over which 
 they scale, in their thousand evolutions. Would they not 
 have seemed quite out of place, had they been of a deep 
 scarlet color ? Such a colored bird we look not for on the 
 deep, but among the green bowers, and fadeless forests of a 
 tropical climate. But the gull seems the graceful child of 
 its mother foam, breaking her curling crest on the dark- 
 blue wave. And the cape pigeon, venturing further out 
 upon the deeper blue ocean than the northern gull, has a 
 plumage partaking of the still deeper blue of the surge, 
 and his wing feathered with the lighter white of the wilder 
 crested billow. 
 
 But there is another bird which hangs on our course of 
 fresh gales, as they have attended us for the most part of 
 our passage since we left Rio. He is a larger bird than 
 the cape pigeon, with longer wings and a slimmer body, 
 and dark as the misty nights themselves which have over- 
 hung us. I cannot look at that bird without regarding 
 him as the very spirit of the storm that sweeps, with its 
 dark wings, over the lashed sea. There he is, scaling in 
 his quick evolutions a thousand times, during the cloudy 
 day, across the track which our ship leaves in the disturb- 
 ed waters behind her. And when the tempest of the night 
 has had its full sweep through the rigging of our naked 
 spars, the morning finds that dark bird still near us, though 
 scarcely seen only as his wing tips the billow in its roll, 
 as he turns himself in his flight, and lines his shape in his 
 upward curve and dark relief, on the horizon beyond him. 
 12* 
 
138 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 And yet, I dislike not that bird he is so sublimely in keep- 
 ing with the dark-rolling billows of the sea, when no crest 
 is on their tops, but clouds darken the heavens or as seen, 
 the precursor of the dark-winged squall, when driving, 
 with nearing approaches, over the waters or when the 
 heavy gathering of the dark nimbi-clouds around the whole 
 horizon tell the wary sailor of the coming hurricane, that 
 shall throw ocean and air, and falling waters, into their 
 wildest tumult and rage. 
 
 OFF CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, AUGUST 19th, 1838. 
 
 I have written of the blow which swept over us on the 
 llth instant; and fresh winds have attended us during 
 most of our course from Rio, up to our present position. 
 
 But the gale of last night and this morning, has out- 
 matched the elements in their tumult of the eleventh. We 
 are now standing nearly east, with fore-course double- 
 reefed, and main-topsail close-reefed, and the wind abaft. 
 The swell of the ocean exceeds any thing which we have 
 before seen. The crest of the surge raises high its white 
 cap, only to be sent, like whirling drifts from the high peak 
 of a snow-bank. At times, the extended ocean lies before 
 us sheeted in one vast layer of foam ; or again, the blue 
 billow, rolling higher than his fellow, breaks its huge vol- 
 ume, and sends its thousand currents of mingling froth 
 down the steep aslant of the surge, like expanded flakes 
 of snow, resting on the declivities of the blue ravine. 
 While standing on the arm-chest of the quarter-deck, one 
 mightier surge than the rest, came on, and rolling high its 
 curling crest, bent its lip of foam over the hammock-cloth 
 and drenched me from head to feet. It was a mighty 
 heave of the ocean, thus to overleap the highest part of 
 the spar-deck. 
 
 Having changed my dress, I again sought the deck, to 
 ascend to the mizzen-top. No sail was spread upon the 
 naked spars, while the winds roared through the moaning 
 rigging ; and here in grand solitude, I gazed abroad upon 
 the lashed ocean, raging in the wildness of a gale at sea. 
 The sun was out, and sent his steady beams abroad, as if 
 to light up the terror of the storm. The spray of the clip- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 139 
 
 ped surge reached me, even in the mizzen-top, as it was 
 whirled on the wing of the eddying currents. Abroad, 
 on the vast deep, the mighty cascades of ocean threw up, 
 as incense of obJation to the winds, their jets of foam, co- 
 ruscating in the light of the glorious sun, and rendering 
 contemptible all the attempts of art to imitate the water- 
 spouts of nature. But the winds those moaning winds, 
 wailing through the taughtened rigging, now howled like 
 a thousand spirits, that seemed ready to chant the requiem 
 of half a thousand souls held at their mercy, and driving 
 them on their way of tempest, with life-lines stretched 
 from gun to gun, the length of either deck, to enable them 
 to pass from bows to stern of the careening, and pitching, 
 and struggling ship. It was a grand spectacle, that veiw 
 from the mizzen-top. The fore and main each bore only 
 a single sail, close-reefed. No other sail was set. The 
 top-gallant-masts were housed, the guns run in, and all 
 was snug. Scarcely a man was seen aloft in the fore and 
 main tops, while the mizzen-mast stood in its naked cords 
 and spars, to wail, in sympathy, with the maddened ele- 
 ments of wind and wave, while the one swept through its 
 cordage, and the other around us, in the wildness of its 
 tempest-course. It was a fearful chord those masts, at 
 times, would line on the heavens, as the ship was heaved 
 by the rolling billow ; and as I gazed over the chafed sea, 
 from the rocking height, the very currents of the air seem- 
 ed as if they would choke me, as I inhaled my breath. 
 Never before, as now, had I so fully realized the fearful 
 circumstances of the adventurous tar aloft while the gale 
 is raging, and mastering the winds themselves, though, 
 from habit, he is as confident and sure as if his feet were 
 pressing the firmer deck below. 
 
 Such is the scene while we are moving around the Cape 
 of Good Hope, some hundred miles in the distance from 
 it. But we fear nothing. We know our path unlike 
 the earliest adventurers on the same course, but hugging 
 nearer to the shore, which they justly denominated, in the 
 days of their smaller ships and imperfect knowledge, "the 
 cape of all torments." But our run is at the rate of ten 
 knots and more the hour, directly on the course which 
 we desire to make over the mighty billows, which, in all 
 
140 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 their mountain-height of blue and green, and crest of foam 
 and mist, and spouting cascades of crystal waters, drink- 
 ing in the light of the high sun, are yet beautiful, and grand, 
 and sublime as nature, even in her wrath, ever appears. 
 Go on, then, thou goodly ship. Thou hast borne us safely 
 thus far, and we will trust thee still, in the hand of that 
 greater Power, who poured the ocean's self from his palm, 
 and can wake or allay its mighty commotion, at his will. 
 On a succeeding evening Lieutenant Turner sent for 
 me, to come to the deck and look at a beautiful Luna-bow. 
 Its colorless but soft phosphorescent arch was lined dis- 
 tinctly and perfect on a dark-brown cloud, in the south- 
 east, while the moon shone sweetly and bright in the north- 
 west. The apex of the arch was some 15 above the sea; 
 and nothing could be more soft, more chaste, more lovely. 
 In its proportions and position it obeyed all the laws of the 
 rainbow, with the exception of the color of its rays. The 
 light of the moon, though her smiles were abundant for a 
 maiden no more than a week old, was too feeble to trans- 
 mit from the bow the prismatic colors. And I would not 
 wish to have seen them, if ever they appear. They 
 would have been out of character, in the soft light of the 
 moon, as she walked through her blue halls to-night, with 
 the horns of her silver crescent turned towards the north, 
 and the stars above her and around her shining in their 
 own peculiar sheen of glory. And then, not far above 
 this arch of light, so chiming in with the color of the stars 
 and the moon's pale beam, was seen the constellation of 
 the Southern Cross. There, then, were all the elements 
 of the escutcheon of the once proud house of Portugal, 
 with her gems of the Brazils the cross supported by its 
 arch, and its azure field studded with brilliants. But the 
 mind that loves to let its vision go beyond the things of 
 change, would think of the reality, which that constella- 
 tion emblems forth of immortality to spirits, which dia- 
 monds of the mines and stars of the heavens may not 
 redeem ; and associate the halo, spanned in its graceful 
 loveliness and light on the heavens, with the brow of Him 
 who made them all, and redeemed man to fadeless bless- 
 edness, if he will but return to him the fit devotion of his 
 heart ! 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 141 
 
 THEORIES CONFIRMED BY OBSERVATION. 
 
 Few things can more gratify one, whose habit of mind 
 has been to philosophize on the phenomena of nature, than 
 to be placed in circumstances where he is able to verify 
 the theories with which he has been familiar, and to ob- 
 serve for himself the reality of those theorems in physics 
 which he believes as mathematical certainties, but which 
 his opportunities of observation have never before given 
 him to feel to be true, as matters of his own visible inspec- 
 tion and consequent experience. 
 
 We all believe that the earth is a sphere. We have 
 read the proofs and followed out its demonstrations in 
 curves and sines and tangents ; and have read of ships, 
 guided by the unerring magnet, and the bright stars, and 
 the yet brighter sun, sailing around the world, by keeping 
 on their unchanged course to the east. We believe it all. 
 But it is not with that feeling of conviction which pos- 
 sesses him, who has watched the compass from day to day 
 and from month to month as he has urged on his curved 
 course, with the prow of his ship ever pointed to the east, 
 and finds himself at last, at the same point of the west from 
 which he started. 
 
 And again, if from the north the voyager has ever look- 
 ed at the sun performing his daily circuit at the south of 
 him, seeming so closely to hug his bright halls in the south- 
 ern distance as almost to leave a doubt in one's feelings 
 whether it be a possibility for one to place that same 
 luminary at the north of him, though he should sail to the 
 southmost extent of the earth. But the voyager no 
 sooner commences his course southward than he finds that 
 the sun, at noonday, is more nearly above him than before. 
 He continues his course another day, and still another, and 
 another, and finds the sun, in his never-failing circuit, yet 
 nearer above him, when midway on his diurnal track 
 of the heavens. As his ship still bounds on her fleet tra- 
 verse, at length the sun, at meridian, sends down his per- 
 pendicular ray, with an intensity of heat, that tells him 
 there is no mistake about its coming from the point direct- 
 ly in his zenith. But he still urges on his course to the 
 
142 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 south, and finds that he is continually leaving the belt of 
 the heavens through which the sun makes his annual 
 circuit, until, as is now our own case, he reaches a point, 
 from which the sun appears as far to the north of him at 
 noonday, as a New-Yorker would see the same glorious 
 orb at his south, on a November's noon. 
 
 And then, as he gazes from night to night on the bright 
 stars, on which he has looked from his infancy, sinking one 
 by one beneath the horizon, as he recedes from them; 
 and another hemisphere of yet brighter brilliants looming 
 up before him to delight his view, he feels, while he thus 
 gazes and admires, and is sad, that he has evidence that 
 this earth is a vast globe, on which he has sailed to its 
 higher part, and there for a moment delayed, but is now 
 descending again, with a long farewell to the home and 
 the hemisphere where he has ever before lived, and looked, 
 and loved. 
 
 The trade-winds are another subject of interest to the 
 voyager, as he passes to the equator and beyond it. In 
 accounting for the regularity of these winds, for ever blow- 
 ing in the same direction, he has to review but a few and 
 simple principles, for the confirmation of the theories in 
 meteorology, with which he made himself acquainted in 
 his school- boy days, or in hours of maturer reasonings. 
 And he finds the reality to be, as his theories would lead him 
 to infer. In the northern tropic, a perpetual northeast 
 wind prevails, ever driving towards the equator, and in 
 the southern tropic, a southeast trade alike drives on its 
 perpetual slant. 
 
 THE VARIETY OF CLOUDS. 
 
 There are many other objects of interest, which attract 
 the gaze, and offer continual subjects to amuse the specula- 
 tions of the meteorologist, as well as to delight the fancy 
 of the poet, and awaken the emotion of the beautiful in 
 the bosom of the lover of nature. Nowhere else can we 
 have so full and ever varying views of the changing 
 clouds, as at sea. One sees them in their thousand forms 
 and changes and picturesque grouping of castle and turret 
 and falling ruins ; and cavalcade and infantry in elernen- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 143 
 
 tary war ; and in the calm of succeeding truce, and the 
 serene of final peace. And then, the expanses, like ocean- 
 plains, in the ever changing skies, often lay before him in 
 their green, or blue, or saffron and gold, with the soft clouds 
 drifting slowly over the bosom of the rich expanse, like so 
 many floating islands, prepared for the spirits of the blest 
 in their circuit of the universe, and of fadeless happiness 
 and years. 
 
 We gaze upon the cirrus most generally occupying 
 the highest place of the atmosphere, and sometimes cover- 
 ing the vast expanse above us, sometimes usurping the 
 whole heavens. Now it throws out its fibrous lines with 
 curled ends, like the flowing hair of a " Kate's crazed," 
 streaming dishevelled in the breeze. Again it is seen in its 
 lines of net- work ; and at others, like flakes of wool dis- 
 tended and terminated in its curve of curls. The sailors 
 call this cloud the mare's tail; and the cirrus, Englishized, 
 means a tuft or lock of curled or frizzled hair. The mari- 
 ner supposes it to be a harbinger of coming winds ; and 
 when it gathers low and dense, a blow may be deemed to 
 hang upon its nearing wing. At such times, it is generally 
 seen rising from a direction opposite to the one whence 
 the gale shall come. The brushy and filiform structure 
 of this cloud, would seem to favor the supposition, that 
 this class of nebula serve as conductors of electricity from 
 cloud to cloud, and from one mass of the atmosphere to 
 another. Its changes are often very rapid, throwing out 
 filaments in various directions, from the original thread, and 
 disappearing in the form of another cloud, but when most 
 elevated, sometimes pencils its beautiful tracery, for hours, 
 on the fair and deep-blue sky. 
 
 The cirro-cumulus is a modification of the cirrus, having 
 the appearance we would imagine to be given to the cir- 
 rus, if its small fibrous layers were contracted into globu- 
 lar shapes, and extending themselves in irregular and hori- 
 zontal masses. They generally occupy the place next 
 lower in the sky than the cirrus ; and by some, this variety 
 of form is deemed to result from the cirrus ceasing its 
 office as an electric conductor, either by its change of form 
 or the changed state of the atmosphere. It is deemed the 
 forerunner of fair weather ; but not always is it such, for, 
 
144 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 when accompanied by the cirro-stratus, another variety 
 of cloud, it is regarded as a sure indicator of a coming 
 storm. 
 
 The cirro-stratus is varying and many- formed, but, like 
 the cirrus, it is a fibrous cloud. It spreads its cross-bars 
 or fibrous layers of oblique and parallel streaks in a hori- 
 zontal extension, varying in their length and size and color, 
 but uniting themselves in a horizontal line, while the ends 
 are jagged and distinct. At other times they spread them- 
 selves in disconnected but regular oblique lines, parallel to 
 each other, lying on the back-ground of the heavens in 
 fanciful resemblance of a school offish, and hence deriving 
 from the voyager the name of mackerel skies. The night 
 before the gale we experienced off Cape Good Hope, the 
 skies were checkered with this variety of clouds, attended 
 by the cirrus yet above it, and both sailing in the upper 
 region. Ere long they condensed into darker layers 
 towards the falling of the sun, with the increase of the 
 winds. The cirro-stratus, in connection with either of the 
 preceding forms, is regarded as an unfailing precursor of 
 a gale ; and in the language of the sailors, 
 
 " Mackerel skies and mares' tails, 
 Make high ships carry low sails." 
 
 The cumulus and the cumulo- stratus never tire the eye 
 as it gazes on their sublime piles, banked up one upon 
 another, and rolling on their courses in changing but ever 
 beautiful formations. What may not one fancy them to 
 be in their fleecy robes of light, and gossamer of a thou- 
 sand dyes, from the deepest crimson and scarlet and ver- 
 milion, to every shade of gold ; or as they stack their 
 spherical shapes in an untarnished glow of silver and gold, 
 against the deep blue of the ether ? I have watched, for 
 hours, their varying forms, as they have lined themselves 
 in one almost unbroken and glorious panorama around the 
 horizon of the heavens, when nature seemed to be deco- 
 rating herself for the gala of some one of her grandest holi- 
 days. And then, as the sun coursed down his way to his 
 bed of the ocean, retiring behind the banks of these conic 
 and terraced masses, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 145 
 
 " Fve lingering gazed upon the glowing west, 
 Seen in her gold and gorgeous purple drest ; 
 But soon those brilliant dyes have past away, 
 As evening threw her veil far o'er the sky." 
 
 Of these two clouds, the cumulus, whenever it is the 
 precursor of rain, presents a more sombre and fleecy 
 appearance, and is less globular and distinct in its forma- 
 tion, and sinking in denser masses towards the horizon. 
 But in fair weather, its rounded forms are well defined, 
 and sail higher up on its course of light, drinking in the 
 beams of the smiling sun, throughout the whole of the 
 loveliest day. 
 
 The cumulo-stratus is yet more beautiful in its combina- 
 tions of rolling and heavy masses, overhanging its dark 
 underlayers ; and sometimes seems to lower, as if all were 
 not right in the peaceful regions through which it is sail- 
 ing; but it is believed that rain never falls from this majes- 
 tic voyager of the fair and beautiful heavens. 
 
 The nimbus, or the rain cloud, often has its origin in the 
 cumulus. Large masses of the cumuli, at times, may be 
 seen crowding together, blending their folds and raising 
 high their peaks, and gliding into the form of cumulo-stra- 
 tus. Ere long they become more and more dense, until 
 they present to the beholder the dark sides and threat- 
 ening volumes of the nimbus, which delays not long its 
 approach over the waters in gust and whirlwind and rain; 
 and is known alike to the observant and the unobservant, 
 as the dispenser of showers, and tempests, and storms. 
 
 The cloud which is spoken of by the meteorologist, as 
 occupying the lowest stations, is the stratus, which includes 
 in its genus the mists and fogs formed during the night, and 
 dispersed by the rarefying beams of the early sun. It is 
 supposed to reach its density at midnight ; and owing to 
 this circumstance, it is sometimes called the cloud of night. 
 But when the sun's early rays scatter its white folds into 
 thin air in the morning, it is the surest harbinger of fairest 
 'skies. Who has looked on the vast volumes of the autum- 
 nal fogs, rolling from the river up the ravines, as the sun 
 sends forth his morning beams, and has not admired the 
 silvery and fleecy folds of the slowly rolling vapors, as 
 they rise beneath the rarefying influence of the morning 
 
 13 
 
146 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ray ? And if we have beheld them while we were gazing 
 upon them from the side of friends, and at the home of 
 our youth, nothing can make us forget the charm of these 
 young associations, and the waking views of our careless 
 and happy hours. 
 
 LAND, HO ! 
 
 We have just made the southern point of the island of 
 Madagascar, after a run of thirty days from Rio. It is a 
 question whether a quicker passage has been made over 
 the same track, our ship having measured ninety degrees 
 of longitude, or sailed one fourth the way around the 
 world in thirty days. 
 
 It is indeed a thing of delight to gain a view of land, 
 after a passage of weeks at sea. The voyager feels that 
 he is again united to a world of living beings ; and the eye 
 fixes itself on the land as an associate object, to carry the 
 heart directly to friends, though they be a hemisphere from 
 the spot where the eye is lingering its gaze. It is on land 
 where our dearest associations cluster. It is there we have 
 laughed, and wept, and loved ; and it is there we believe 
 ourselves still to be beloved. 
 
 To me, it is an agreeable circumstance to be noted, that 
 we have, in every instance, made the land under some inter- 
 esting exhibition of nature. The scene at Madeira, and 
 the bright Arcturus shining above us, has been mentioned. 
 The eve of our gaining our first view of Rio de Janeiro 
 is noted, as associated with an unequalled moon-lit scene. 
 And to-night, as the sun went down but a little at the west 
 of the island, which lies in the horizon on our larboard 
 beam, bathing his golden disk in the Indian seas, he exhib- 
 ited a peculiar and peaceful sunset, which seemed to omen 
 brightly of our onward way, through the waters of these 
 olden lands. The large orb fell, while we were gazing 
 on the newly seen isle. When his lower limb touched the 
 waves, they heaved against his crimson belt, while some 
 six or eight digits of his disk only could be seen, as he 
 continued to settle beneath the waves, from a cloud above 
 him, until at length his upper rim emerged from the fleecy 
 bank, and in a moment more he disappeared, saying, in the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 147 
 
 last gleam that scintillated in his farewell ray, " I have been 
 your friend I have given you my beams until I have 
 saved you from the nearing danger, and the wished-for 
 object now lies before you. Praise ye, then, the God who 
 made me." 
 
 Surely that heart must be devoid of all capability of 
 gratitude, who, after a course of weeks upon the bound- 
 less ocean, can look upon the land, and think of friends, 
 and health, and safety, and gives not a gush of bursting 
 Jove to the God who made him, and whose attending 
 goodness has been with him on the seas. 
 
 The land which we have made is the island of Mada- 
 gascar, the first we have seen in this ocean of isles, into 
 which we are about entering, and which we first desired 
 to make.* 
 
 In consequence of finding it impossible to weather the 
 southeastern point of the island of Madagascar, occasion- 
 ed by the adverse winds called the Fort Dauphin winds, 
 which prevail at the south end of Madagascar, our ship 
 has been standing to the east and south for several days, 
 with the intention of taking one of the outer passages for 
 Muscat or Bombay. The island of Madagascar is a con- 
 tinent in itself; and it seems remarkable that it has not 
 met the avaricious eye of some of the European powers, 
 and called for the exercise of their prowess, in the at- 
 tempt to take and to hold possession of it. 
 
 Yesterday, September 4th, we were some three hun- 
 dred miles from land, with the island of Bourbon and the 
 Isle of France at the windward. It seems yet unsolved 
 whether we shall touch at the latter. It is replete with 
 associations. It is the spot where the scenes are laid, 
 which have brought the tear to the eye of many a young 
 
 * During the night, owing to our proximity to the land, we stood 
 off to the south, but tacked ship early in the morning. When again 
 we had gained a view of the land, a cloud had passed the ship ; 
 and a bow more brilliant than any one on board had ever before 
 seen, arched itself over the southern extremity of Madagascar. 
 The lower chord of rays lined themselves as distinctly in its lovely 
 violet as art's less lovely tints could have drawn them on canvass. 
 It was a perfect thing, and awakened the admiration of every eye 
 on board. 
 
148 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 heart while reading the sentimental and tragic story of 
 Paul and Virginia. The island, in other days, has been 
 noted for its loveliness, and choice and hospitable society. 
 The clove in its rich aroma, and the cinnamon, and the 
 coffee tree deck the plantations, while the flowering mi- 
 mosas with their contrasts of white and yellow and rose 
 blossoms, with the deep verdure of their dense foliage, 
 decorate the streets of Port Louis. 
 
 But to me, the greatest charm which could be thrown 
 around this fair isle of the Indian seas, is the circumstance 
 of its being the final resting-place of the lovely and de- 
 voted Harriet Newell. I well remember the story of this 
 first martyr to the cause of East India missions. And 
 when a boy, the memoirs that narrated her voyage, and 
 exhibited her character in its loveliness, its sweetness, and 
 its piety, melted my heart, and perhaps was among the 
 first things that awakened in my own bosom the desire 
 that the God in whom she confided might be mine. How, 
 then, would I stand beside that grave, which contains the 
 dust of the self-sacrificing and lovely missionary, who 
 had a heart which embraced in its benevolence the mil- 
 lions of India ; and though delicate in her feminine loveli- 
 ness, hesitated not, in that early day of Christian effort for 
 the East, to dare the difficulties that attended on the path 
 of the strongest and the roughest, who went forth with 
 good intent for the salvation of the benighted. Peace- 
 fully she rests in the green island of cloves, which give 
 their spicy richness to the gale. None who can appre- 
 ciate the moral beauty of virtue in its loveliest dress can 
 recall thy memory, sweet sleeper of the ocean isle, and 
 not yield thee the tribute of deferential respect and love. 
 
 This evening, at about sunset, a little bird came down 
 on its tired wing, and lighted on our ship. The quarter- 
 master took it, and brought it to me. It is far away from 
 the shore for such a little wanderer to venture ; and when 
 taken, manifested no symptom of alarm. I brought the 
 little voyager to my room, and penned to it the following 
 lines : 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 149 
 
 TO A BEAUTIFUL LITTLE BIRD, 
 
 Which lighted on the deck of the Columbia, some hundred miles and more to the leeward 
 of the Isle of France. 
 
 Sweet bird of the isle, too far o'er the sea 
 Thou has bent thy slight wing come hither to me ; 
 There's none that will harm thee, sweet bird of the isle, 
 As thou on this bosom shalt rest for a while. 
 
 The first shade of night is on the dark wave, 
 And the zephyrs of eve in their sea-dews lave ; 
 And thy home many leagues is away in the west, 
 Thou canst not reach it come hither and rest. 
 
 And when the morn breaks with its first ray beaming, 
 And o'er the blue sea to thy green isle is streaming, 
 I'll give thee to thy wing, if again thou wilt dare 
 To cut thy fleet way through the deep azure air. 
 
 But thy breast is now beating, lone bird of the isle, 
 And none its grief-breakings hath power to beguile ; 
 Thou drearnest of thy left-one 'mong bowers of the clove, 
 There carolling her vesper this eve in the grove : 
 
 " O where, O where is my lost-one," she is murmuring now, 
 " That, to-night, he returns not to his cinnamon bough] 
 The soft spicy breezes lose their sweetness for me, 
 While I am absent, my lost-one, rny lost-one, from thee !" 
 
 But cheer thee, little bird of the sweet azure crest, 
 
 Again thou shalt see thy green isle of the west ; 
 
 We will bear thee, to-night, full many leagues on, 
 
 And thou shalt live again, and love, in thy own spicy home. 
 
 On the morning of the 9th, we made land, agreeably 
 to our expectation, and corresponding in its longitude with 
 the time of our chronometers. It is the island of Diego 
 Rodriques, long. 63 7', lat. 19 ST. It presents, the south- 
 ern extremity of it, an oval outline with the highest point 
 in the centre, and declining either way with a nearly 
 equal curve. It is composed of high mountains and deep 
 ravines, while it sleeps in its ocean-solitude, in undisturbed 
 possession of the crabs and turtles frequenting its shores. 
 
 13* 
 
150 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 SABBATH OF THE 9TH OF SEPTEMBER. 
 
 We have taken the southeast monsoons, and are sailing 
 delightfully on our course. It is a lovely day, and it is the 
 Sabbath. The services of the morning are over ; and a 
 few moments since, while on the quarter-deck, I marked 
 one of the Lieutenants, who had turned from the view of 
 the land to the opposite quarter of the ship. His head rested 
 upon his hand, and his elbow upon the hammock-cloth ; 
 while his cap was carelessly held in his other hand, which 
 lay listless upon the netting ; but his thoughts were on 
 wings, I doubt not, which bore him to loved ones far 
 how far away, on other shores ! And this was not all. 
 His were not only thoughts which relate to this life. 
 None loved more entirely than he ; and it was this love 
 which now bore his thoughts up to the Father of us all, for 
 blessings which this earth cannot give, to rest on the 
 absent. Oh, there is a hallowedness in those breathings, 
 which go forth in prayer for those who are deeply be- 
 loved, when the soul of him who prayeth hath but lately 
 learned to feel that there are riches beyond this world 
 which friends dearer to him than life may attain, and 
 when such is the burden of his prayer. God bless those 
 friends; and in the mysterious commune of spirits, may the 
 prayer of this young husband bear on it, by the way of the 
 courts of heaven, this day, a blessing which shall thrill a 
 kindred chord of devotion in the bosom of his young and 
 amiable bride, and consecrate to their God the young 
 years of their boy, who has, as yet, but just learned to 
 lisp the name of father and mother. 
 
 While reading, to-day, in the Memoir of the accom- 
 plished Henry Martyn, the scholar of Cambridge and the 
 missionary to the Indies, I noted, with interest, the follow- 
 ing passage : " Since I have known God in a saving man- 
 ner, painting, poetry, and music have had charms unknown 
 to me before. I have received what I suppose is a taste 
 for them ; for religion has refined my mind, and made it 
 susceptible of impressions from the sublime and beautiful. 
 Oh how religion secures the heightened enjoyment of those 
 pleasures which keep so many from God, by their becom- 
 ing a source of pride !" 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 151 
 
 There is deep truth in this reflection ; and it has often 
 impressed my own mind as it is here delineated in the 
 words of Martyn. And I once heard a gentleman of 
 great refinement of character, taste in literature, and who 
 minutely observed men and manners, say, that there was 
 nothing like religion to give beauty of expression to the 
 countenance. Why should it not be so ? We know that 
 the muscles of the face are exercised by the emotions of 
 the heart ; and those emotions which are most frequently 
 exercised in the bosom leave the evidence of their frequent 
 existence demonstrated on the countenance. If, therefore, 
 the benevolence of the heart towards our fellow-men, 
 often touch our sympathies if sympathy for the distress- 
 ed if ingenuousness of character, rectitude of purpose, 
 and truth in principle, are all habitually waking in the 
 bosom and controlling the mental decisions and external 
 actions of one who has devoted himself, or herself, to the 
 discipleship of Christ, how can it be otherwise than that 
 these feelings should chronicle themselves in the open, and 
 manly, and ingenuous face of the sincere follower of Jesus 
 Christ, whose religion inculcates good will to all men. 
 And these are the virtues and the excellencies which we all 
 admire, wherever they are seen to exist. It is in the very- 
 nature of our constituent being to admire virtue and moral 
 excellence, as much so, as it is a quality of the physical 
 eye to appreciate physical beauty. Therefore, where 
 other things are equal, that countenance will be the most 
 lighted up by that inexpressible and often indescribable 
 charm, which gives one to believe that he reads, in the 
 light of its expression, the amiable and enchanting quali- 
 ties of an unseen but intelligibly speaking soul. And 
 when a character, thus refined in its sensibilities and prin- 
 ciples, goes forth to look on nature, her beauties chime in 
 with such a character's sympathies. Nature, in all her 
 coloring and landscape and sublimity in effect, exhibits a 
 perfection in the Creative Mind that conceived and spread 
 such beauties forth to the view ; and it awakes, in the 
 bosom of the refined, a longing desire for a kindred purity, 
 that his spirit may be untarnished by one blemish. And 
 the least blemish, wherever seen in contrast with the loveli- 
 ness around him, in his growing habit of refinement, 
 
152 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 gives pain to the increasing delicacy of his perceptions. 
 And with this deepened refinement of spirit, painting, 
 poetry, and music, made up of beautiful and delicate 
 harmonies in imagery, sentiment, and sound, come home 
 to his sensibilities, and the soul thrills as it yields to the 
 deep tides of flowing, and beautiful, and refined thought. 
 No man nor woman hath reached that delicacy of suscep- 
 tibility, where harmonies find the deepest chords which 
 nature has strung in our bosom, unless the element of 
 religion lies among the vibrating strings of the spirit. It is 
 of no account to say that some unholy men have been the 
 
 greatest poets, and that many holy men have never had 
 ic gift of poetry. Byron perceived what he might have 
 enjoyed, had he himself been all that his mind conceived of 
 the pure, the beautiful, and the refined. We read his con- 
 fession in the sentiment, when the prayer of one who was 
 lovely, and young, and pure, was sent to him, as having 
 been penned and offered up to her God for him, and which, 
 on her death, had been found among her private papers. 
 He would sooner have exchanged all the glory of his poetic 
 fame than the one consciousness that such a prayer had 
 been sent to heaven in his behalf. Byron should have 
 been a Christian, and then he would have experienced the 
 happiness rather than the miseries of one of the gifted chil- 
 dren of poesy. Pollock was such ; and as he wrote, he 
 not only enjoyed the mental perception of the beautiful 
 and the sublime, but his heart melted in the depths of its 
 profoundest and purest sensibilities, which reached the 
 circumstances of his whole mental, and moral, and im- 
 mortal being. 
 
 On the twelfth, a dark storm, with rain and thunder, 
 attended us, and reduced the ship to her fore-course and 
 main-topsail, close-reefed. The spindle of the main con- 
 ductor was illuminated for some time, and I stood, for a 
 half hour, in the deep darkness of the night, and the heavy 
 peltings of the rain, on deck, to watch the effect of the 
 clouds, charged with electricity, upon the pointed spars 
 of the ship. The illuminated point of the spindle appear- 
 ed like a small star, and lined its chord of light on the dark 
 zenith as the ship rolled, but at times disappeared, or 
 again gave forth its small bead of light. Before I ascend- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 153 
 
 ed to the deck, the officer assured me that the truck was 
 considerably more illuminated, and a phosphorescent ap- 
 pearance extended some inches down the royal-mast. 
 
 The sailors are, confessedly, a superstitious class, very 
 generally believing in ghosts and various kinds of spiritual 
 appearances. While standing upon the deck, I was 
 amused with strange stories, each one being ready to spin 
 his yarn when interrogated. They call this electrical ap- 
 pearance corpo-sant the St. Elmo's light of the books, 
 and of other superstitious times. A main-top-man as- 
 sured me that he had often seen the corpo-sant descend 
 from the truck to the deck, and ascend again. In case of 
 its rising again from the deck to the truck, it is deemed 
 an omen of approaching good weather. But should the 
 corpo-sant descend the mast, and make its way out of the 
 lee-scupper, then, 
 
 " There's danger on the deep,' 1 
 
 and many vessels, under such circumstances, are known 
 to have been lost, said the sailor, with all their crews. 
 
 It is not unusual, during a stormy night like this, for 
 the three trucks of a ship to become illuminated, as also 
 the ends of the higher yards. This phenomenon is of 
 frequent occurrence off Cape Hatteras, and the cause must 
 be obvious, as an electric exhibition, at the rounded points 
 of the spars of the ship. 
 
 Nature never tires the eye of the admiring gazer, as he 
 lingers his vision on her ever changing beauties. The 
 sunset of one night is beautiful the next may equal it 
 for its brilliancy, while the coloring and the thousand 
 fairy forms of the one shall differ entirely with the ever 
 varying forms and colors of the other. I have already, 
 and more than once, alluded to the beautiful sunset scenes, 
 which are ever presenting themselves to us, at sea. But 
 the scene of glory spread before our eye on the evening 
 of the 13th, in our west, has not before been equalled for 
 its coloring and variety of fantastic forms ; and we will 
 call it 
 
154 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 A SUNSET SCENE IN THE SEAS OF ARABIA. 
 
 And what is there of the imagination that does riot come 
 forth as the memory recalls the olden stories and fairy 
 tales of that enchanted land the days of the Caliphs 
 Yemen's golden mountains, and Oman's emerald waters ? 
 We are now approaching this land of gorgeous legends, 
 and in a few days more may lave our anchors in the green 
 waters of Oman. And just as we are entering the seas 
 of Arabia, the delight is not a little augmented by the 
 coincidence that presents to us, to-night, so gorgeous a 
 sunset, while we let the imagination go on its free wing 
 to mingle the half-shady memories and mystic fictions of 
 the past with the brilliant images and reality of the present. 
 
 A summer's shower had gone over us, such as I have 
 known at the north in June, which left the soft and moist 
 air to rest refreshingly against the cheek. The clouds 
 had been floating on their way, and were now packing 
 themselves up in the south and west, leaving vacant fields 
 in the sky, deep and vast, where they seemed to have laid 
 off the beautiful spaces, as if they had thought on this night 
 as the hour for making the greatest display of their mag- 
 nificence and loveliness. The sun had sunk his veiled 
 disk beneath the western rim of the ocean, and sent back 
 upon the clouds his beams, in his greatest prodigality ; 
 while these aerial vapors had disposed themselves in fan- 
 tastic lines, as if they sought to be peculiar this night. 
 One long cirro-stratus stretched itself in a horizontal line, 
 midway in the scene, dark, and low, and long ; and above 
 and below were oblique layers so converging on the green 
 back-ground of the sky, as to exhibit the appearance of 
 an undulating sea of paling green, sending back from its 
 unbroken and mirroring surface a sheet of light, in deli- 
 cate and softest beauty. Not the gossamer zone of lady 
 ever floated so lightly as, here and there, waved the elon- 
 gated curls of fleecy vapors, in their different hues of 
 lightest pink, and blue, and palest gold, while the heavier 
 layers of clouds piled themselves in strata upon strata, 
 and all were illuminated with every tint of mingling 
 scarlet and carmine and deepest Indian red, such a^s 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 155 
 
 painters might wish, to give the highest coloring to the 
 cheek. 
 
 But it was the arrangement of the clouds, to-night, 
 which mostly struck my eye, and awakened my interest, 
 though nature's colorings shone forth in their indescrib- 
 able magnificence. There, around the gorgeous horizon, 
 lay all the cities of the East, as they had rilled our young 
 minds and vivid imaginations, with all their turrets and 
 domes and embattled ramparts, notching themselves along 
 the line of the glowing horizon. But one scene, more 
 than the rest, attracted the long gaze of my own eye, 
 willingly lingering on the princely vision. Two parallel 
 rows of clouds were so piled, as to give the perspective 
 of a spacious avenue, lined, on either side, with palaces 
 and castles, embowered in regular rows of ornamental 
 and towering trees, extending from the rim of the ocean 
 far across the area of the wide city, to a curve in a crys- 
 tal and expanded river, that seemed to wind, for leagues, 
 in the back-ground. It opened directly in our front ; and 
 in its distance, this princely street, at this hour, seemed 
 animated with the equipages of nobles and the luxurious, 
 on their evening and pleasure drives, now returning to 
 their several homes ere the night-fall gathered over them. 
 I gazed until the twilight of evening left those distant halls, 
 and battlements, and turrets, arid equipages, in the dun 
 of earliest eve ; while only some few of the latest strag- 
 glers here and there seemed to be driving on a belated 
 course, at the hour when night is soon to wrap all alike 
 in her deep and dark mantle of shadows and forgetfulness. 
 
 All on board the frigate were gazing, from their several 
 places, on this gorgeous scene. 
 
 " There, Mr. T.," said the Commodore, as he turned to 
 me from the horseblock, "is a scene for poetry. I think 
 we may hear of it again. We are near enough to the 
 waters of Arabia to lay the scene in her seas." 
 
 " And a lady in Rio, you know, sir, told me that she 
 knew I was a poet, the first time she saw me. And I as- 
 sured her that she was early to find out, what nature had 
 never yet discovered." 
 
 " Your modesty, Mr. T." 
 
 " At least I can fancy that the breeze this evening snuffs 
 
156 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of balmy Araby ; and the whole scene is in keeping with 
 the tales of enchantment, which have lain, like fairy spells, 
 in the imagination from our infancy, as we have thought 
 of the storied land of the East. It is association, as I 
 take it, which delights the voyager, as he nears, and as 
 he stands on olden ground, rather than the things of the 
 present which meet his eye around him. He cares not 
 though he treads on ruins, if the past be in his memory 
 and musings ; and he chooses fiction rather than the re- 
 ality, if that fiction has before delighted him. Araby once 
 had the reputation of all the East. She is now only 
 Araby, by herself. The Sultan of Muscat, however, is a 
 lion of modern times, that may justly awake our curiosity 
 and admiration." 
 
 " Yes ; and I would," continued the Commodore, as he 
 held his hand up to the gentle breeze, " that these prog- 
 nostics of a change of wind might come from this quarter, 
 and a few more days would give us the pleasure of seeing 
 the Sultan. But had we a suitable present for his High- 
 ness, and five thousand dollars to give him an entertain- 
 ment becoming his generous hospitality, we should be ad- 
 ditionally gratified. But mark you that pile of dark pil- 
 lars rising in the continued changes of the sky, in that 
 expanse of exquisite green, so like an ocean, thereaway ?" 
 
 " It looks like the dark sugar-loaf, as the masses now 
 crowd together, and reminds me of the beautiful moon-rise 
 scene, that smiled on our first making the city of St. Se- 
 bastian, which should have been built of rock. I thought, 
 as I marked the beds of beautiful granite inwalling the 
 city of Rio on its three sides, that Don Pedro, with his 
 Brazilian gold and diamonds and agricultural resources, 
 if he had possessed any energy, should have been able to 
 say, when exiled from his western capital, ' I found the 
 city in mortar and pebbles ; I leave it a city of granite ;' 
 in imitation of the Roman, who left the seven-hill city of 
 brick, a city of marble." 
 
 " Tea is ready, sir," said a servant, as he approached 
 and touched his hat to the Commodore. [Exeunt omnes.] 
 
 It is not a frequent coincidence, in the run of a ship, 
 for the vessel to pass the equatorial line at meridian and 
 under a clear sun. In our own case to-day, however, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 157 
 
 Sept. 17th, we found ourselves, at noon, five minutes, or 
 five miles, north of the equatorial line, of which, had it not 
 been an imaginary circle, we could have had a fair view. 
 The declination of the sun was only 2, and consequently 
 nearly perpendicular. The shadows of the men looked 
 like crabs as they were passing fore and aft the decks. I 
 suspended a broom, at the moment of twelve, and the 
 shadow of the handle could not be seen, so nearly vertical 
 was the sun. For a few moments before twelve it seemed 
 doubtful whether the sun would dip ahead or abaft of us, 
 our ship standing, at the time, on a north course. But 
 when the sun had reached its highest point, the sextant 
 brought its reflected disk to the rim of the ocean, ahead 
 of us. To-morrow the sun and ourselves will have chang- 
 ed sides with each other, and a long sweep remains for 
 each of us before we shall again meet and reciprocate 
 our passing compliments. 
 
 A bird was sent to my room this morning before I had 
 plumed my own wings to venture from my nest. It came 
 at the direction of the Commodore, who has been abroad 
 earlier than myself. It is a true Arabian of whom we 
 think as of a rover that has designs upon his neighbor 
 with the eye of a hawk, the fleetness of his own Arab 
 steed, and the strength and the agility of the dromedary. 
 The bird is an Arabian falco, that lives by his predatory 
 excursions, and eats his weaker neighbors, when he can 
 catch them. And notwithstanding his own merciless na- 
 ture, it was a long colloquy between my conscience, 
 humanity, and love of the curious, whether said falco 
 should be considered as having forfeited his life by his 
 previous course, which course, however, was to be judged 
 of only by circumstantial evidence and reasonings a priori. 
 It was at length decided that a preparation should be 
 made of him, and my servant boy was directed to place 
 his hand so as to press the breast of the bird that it might 
 not expand, and to place his fingers around its neck. The 
 beautifully speckled falco, with his dun-colored and dark- 
 spotted plumage, in a moment saw no more from those 
 large, round, and beautiful dark eyes, though they had 
 looked on so many beautiful things of nature, and with 
 the quickness of light had seen and seized his weaker 
 
 14 
 
158 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 prey. He did not even flap his wings, and seemed un- 
 conscious of pain, so suddenly and so completely did he 
 lose his breath. 
 
 I can seldom bring myself to a willingness to destroy 
 the life of a bird, or other animal, merely for my own 
 pleasure of preserving him to fill a niche in a private mu- 
 seum. And I admire that delicacy of feeling which 
 caused a gentleman of my acquaintance, on perceiving a 
 serpent endeavoring to devour a toad, to alight from his 
 carriage, and separate them giving each a switching, 
 and sending them about their business. But on board of 
 ship, the birds which alight upon her spars and rigging, 
 are generally so far spent that they do not recover, and 
 will not eat or drink. The same day a pretty little swal- 
 low was brought to me, and with a desire to cherish its 
 life I placed it in one of the side lanterns of the ship, with 
 the intention of bearing it nearer to the land, that it might 
 find its way back again to its green bowers and sylvan 
 tents. But it died during the night. This was also the 
 sad fate of the pretty bird that came aboard of us at the 
 leeward of the Isle of France ; and all my kind desires 
 that it might reach its green land-home again, failed of their 
 gratification. It died, as I watched its last pulsations, on 
 my handkerchief. And though my sympathies could 
 avail it nothing, the incident bore me many leagues over 
 the seas, where I remembered to have seen a sweet young 
 lady, sitting in pensive mood, with her long dark eyelashes 
 nearly closed, as her neck, with a gentle curve, bent to 
 gaze on her pretty canary, which lay imbedded on her 
 rich laced handkerchief, and was dying. Each pulsation 
 of its yellow plumed bosom was watched with a languish- 
 ing air of sentiment, as the little sleeper lay in her lap ; 
 and when the last beat of its heart had stopped, and the 
 convulsed wings extended themselves, and its delicate 
 feet contracted, and all then was over, one long sigh 
 swelled that young lady's bosom, and a tear filled her ab- 
 stracted eye. Who will say that such a tear was ill-spent 
 over the death of that beautiful little bird ? 
 
 There was a beautiful eclipse of the moon this evening, 
 October 3d, and we were every way favorably situated 
 to observe it, in the Arabian sea. The night was clear, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 159 
 
 and the sea smooth, while we were gliding on our course, 
 with our sails sufficiently filled to keep the ship steady. 
 The air was mild and delightful. The officer of the 
 deck sent for me ; and when I reached the upper deck, 
 the earth's shadow had already covered ten digits of the 
 moon's disk. The heavens were lighted by the bright 
 stars, now streaming in their greatest brilliance from out 
 an Indian heaven, while the northern edge of the moon 
 gleamed in its narrow strip of light, only to render the 
 gloom beneath her on the ocean yet more sickly and 
 drear, while the stars above and around lay in their love- 
 liness, deep in their dark concave above us. 
 
 Even philosophers are sometimes so much the things 
 of habit in their associations, that we had not bethought 
 ourselves that an eclipse, invisible in the United States, 
 would be in full view to the eye that gazed at it in the 
 Indian seas. It was a beautiful sight, however, as pre- 
 sented to our observation. The gorgeous queen seemed 
 to have taken the whim of a quakeress to-night, in her 
 attire of the light dun of her gossamer dress. I contem- 
 plated her changes with interest, first with the naked eye, 
 then through the common night-glass, afterwards through 
 a larger inverted telescope, which exhibited her appear- 
 ances yet more interesting, in her contrasts of colors. 
 The shadow exhibited the appearance of the richest am- 
 ber; and the brilliant stream of light, that gleamed in a 
 small line on the northern rim, as it increased its field 
 while the shadow receded, presented an area resembling 
 a surface of purest snow, reflecting back a flood of light 
 in contrast with the amber of the shadow. 
 
 We envied our friends on the 18th of the last month, 
 the opportunity of gazing at the annular eclipse of the 
 sun. No evidence of a frown gathering over his face, 
 appeared to us. And the privilege we enjoyed in con- 
 templating the scene of to-night, from the mid-ocean, 
 might justly excite their envy towards us, could friends, 
 in their kindness of heart, ever indulge such a feeling to- 
 wards those of their number when far away, for the 
 occasional pleasures which come across their course. 
 
160 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 A LAZY SHIP WAKIXG AGAIN TO LIFE. 
 
 Our ship has been sleeping for some fortnight and 
 more in the calm waters of the Arabian seas, as if she, 
 like the rest of us, had become unnerved by the relaxing 
 heat of these latitudes. We have made but little pro- 
 gress, from day to day. The sea has presented, often, an 
 unruffled bosom. Around us occasionally, the thousand 
 colored and beautiful dolphins have been seen, and the 
 rudder-fish adhering, as if it were life and death with 
 him, to the course of the ship. The waters in these seas 
 are remarkably phosphorescent. At night, a sponge, 
 dipped into a bucket freshly filled from the sea, will be- 
 come bespangled entirely with the brilliant phosphorescent 
 points, giving forth their light from a thousand small glob- 
 ules, that coat the surface to which they adhere. And 
 when the water is dashed upon the deck these thousand lit- 
 tle brilliants cover the moistened space. But when a light 
 is brought to observe the animalcules themselves, which 
 are supposed to give forth these phosphorescent appear- 
 ances, not one can be detected. At least, on several 
 occasions I have made the examination with others, and 
 without success ; though these illuminated particles are 
 perfectly perceptible to the eye in the dark, and on placing 
 your finger upon them, as they adhere to any surface, 
 they give forth a brighter illumination, and can be suf- 
 fused over a larger space by compression, as a small par- 
 ticle of glutinous matter would extend itself when the 
 finger was drawn, with a pressure, over it. I can ima- 
 gine that these seas should sometimes exhibit one unbroken 
 sheet of phosphorescent light, as it has been affirmed of 
 them, as seen in some instances. And on one evening, 
 as our vessel was gliding gently through the water, which 
 was undulating with an unbroken surface, the dark sea 
 near u^ seemed but a counterpart of the bespangled arch 
 above us, as we looked into the deep concave below, illu- 
 minated by a thousand points of these phosphorescent 
 and twinkling globules, which the imagination placed as 
 far off and beneath us as the orbs that gleamed hi their 
 distant and far-off halls above us. 
 
 
 " 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 161 
 
 For several days have we been gliding through such a 
 sea, lazily indeed, and where alone we have, during our 
 voyage, seeri*the expanded bosom of the ocean exhibit its 
 vast surface as a mirror in its smoothness and reflecting 
 powers. But to-day our courser has aroused herself, and 
 seems moving with awakened speed on her way, as if 
 she had again come to her remembrance that there was 
 something to be done, and dreaming was not always to 
 be indulged in by one who bears a nation's messages and 
 commission around the world. 
 
 S'ECTION vn. 
 
 MUSCAT. 
 
 Off Muscat. Night signals. First view of Muscat. Title of Imam. Visit 
 of the Commodore to the Imam. Commodore Read's letter to his High- 
 ness. Letter and lines from the Author to the Sultan. Also letter to the 
 young Imam. Note of Syed Bin Calfaun. The burial of a seaman at 
 Muscat. Author's visit to Captain Calfaun. Sentiment of the Sultan as 
 it respects the residence of Missionaries. The Sultan's horses. Visit of 
 the young Sultan to the frigate. Camp of the Bedouin Arabs. Banyans. 
 Bedouin Chief. Captain Syed Bin Calfaun. Generosity of the Sultan 
 of Muscat. Syed Syeed Bin Soultan's family. 
 
 THIS morning, October 18th, we find ourselves off Mus- 
 cat, the wished-for port, for which we have been steering 
 over a long track of water since we left Rio de Janeiro. 
 We have been eighty days at sea since we left the South 
 American coast. Last night we deemed ourselves within 
 a few miles of the harbor, and with all our studding-sails 
 set, endeavored to press the ship up to a point, at which, 
 as we rounded it, we expected we should discover the har- 
 bor. But the sun delayed not on his declining course, and 
 lost himself behind the serrated range of hills of the Ara- 
 bian coast, along which we had been standing during the 
 day, before we could weather the low and elongated bluff. 
 As the sun declined beyond the cragged highland, he still 
 
 14* 
 
 
162 
 
 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 163 
 
 sent back his rays, to bless our eyes with a long twilight. 
 But the point was too far to be gained by the ship before 
 the shades of evening had spread over the sea ; and no 
 one on board, with any confidence, could point out the 
 entrance to the harbor, as we were approaching it. Hav- 
 ing tacked ship, and re-examined our latitude and longi- 
 tude, which placed us, according to our best authorities, 
 directly off the harbor of Muscat, we continued to stand 
 some points more off, but along the shore. 
 
 We had spoken a vessel a day or two before, direct from 
 Muscat, who reported an American armed vessel there, 
 having arrived five days before from Zanzebar. We con- 
 cluded of course that the John Adams had arrived in 
 safety before us ; and if still in the harbor, bearing as we 
 presumed it did from us, she might be able to mark our 
 night signals, and return them. The gunner, therefore, 
 was ordered to send up a number of rockets, which traced 
 their stream of light through the air, exploded, and illu- 
 mined, with a faint flitter, the dark waters beneath them, 
 and expired. But no coruscating light, in the distance, 
 announced that there was one living being on that iron- 
 bound and apparently desolate shore, who marked that a 
 noble frigate was within a few miles of the secluded capi- 
 tal of the Arabian Sultan. And the hills of rock, deeply 
 cut by vast chasms into unequal and fearful ravines, are 
 so high that the Adams, if she is now lying at Muscat, 
 most probably could not have caught the gleam of our 
 rockets. 
 
 But, this morning, having made a gentle slant to the 
 west and north during the night, we see a little notch in 
 the side of the elevated land, seven or ten miles distant. 
 It looks as if a niche had been made in one of the bluffs 
 extending along the shore ; and there, as if it were an 
 eagle's eyry, in its wild and still solitude, is perched a cas- 
 tle ; and there, too, the glasses discover to be the entrance 
 to the inwalled cove, on which is situated the city of Mus- 
 cat. A small and light-colored island, as it shows itself 
 in the beams of this morning's sun, lies off the cove, as if 
 it were a buoy thrown adrift, to mark the entrance to the 
 little bay of Muscat. And on a range, higher up than the 
 castle, and nearer to us, are seen two watch-towers, which 
 
164 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 occupy the elevated heights half way up the sides of the 
 most elevated line of the hills, and perched on some peak 
 of lesser mountains. It is all a wild scene, but unique and 
 interesting. Not one spear of grass or leaf of green, or 
 relief of tree is seen upon the notched outline of the dark 
 rocks which are lying far back and near, cragged, and sha- 
 ded by each other, or throwing back their reflected light, 
 as the sun this morning pours its beams upon the steril and 
 hard surfaces of the broken and rocky heights. Ere long 
 we shall glide nearer and through the rocky inlet ; and 
 there we hope to meet our consort, after a long separation ; 
 and then we will assure his Highness, the Sultan of Mus- 
 cat, that we value his generous dealings with our nation, 
 and that we are friendly in the purposes of our visit and 
 future designs in his seas. 
 
 While writing the preceding, an Arabian pilot came off 
 to our ship, in a canoe, paddled by two slaves. He advan- 
 ced to the officer of the deck with perfect ease, and exhib- 
 ited a person, clad in his flowing gown, sash, and turban, 
 with a kinger, ornamented with a silver handle, stuck, like 
 a bowie-knife, in his girdle. We learned from him that 
 the John Adams has been at Muscat, and left there for 
 Bombay, four days since. 
 
 With the light sea-breeze of the morning we continued 
 to approach the harbor, and have now rounded the castel- 
 lated point on the east of the cove, and moored our ship 
 in full view of the city of Muscat. And the scene pre- 
 sented before us is like Muscat. What else it resembles 
 I can scarcely define. But it is peculiar, interesting, and 
 Arabesque. Here, enclosing the city on three of its sides, 
 stands the mighty rock, crowned with castles and various 
 small turrets and towers, around the picturesque cove. 
 And there was never any thing that is mean in rock. It 
 is ever grand, and gives us the idea of power, durability, 
 and immoveable prowess. Ages on ages roll by, and 
 still it stands, to laugh at the tempest, and to gaze with a 
 heart of flint on the generations of mortals which the earth 
 sends to their graves, while the mountain-rock sheds but 
 its disintegrated particles, from its enduring bulwarks, to 
 the plains. 
 
 We had let go our anchors but a short time before a 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 165 
 
 number of Arabian boats pulled around our ship, and a 
 few of the Arabs came on board in their characteristic cos- 
 tumes. In a few moments after, Captain Syed Bin Calfaun, 
 with the newly arrived Amerfcan Consul, pulled off to the 
 ship. They spent a short time with the Commodore, and 
 soon after their leaving the ship a salute was fired, in com- 
 pliment to his Highness, the Sultan of Muscat. Our salute 
 was instantly returned by the forts on three sides of the 
 cove, two of which are almost within gunshot of our frig- 
 ate. Scarcely could a finer effect have been produced 
 than by the reverberating echoes which our cannon pro- 
 longed around this rocky inlet. I have heard, on Lake 
 George, its justly admired reverberations to the sound of 
 the bugle, and in repeating the thunder of a piece of artil- 
 lery ; and can imagine the grandeur of the effect, were the 
 good ship Columbia's cannon discharged over its waters 
 and among its surrounding hills. But here, the echoes of 
 the inwalled cove were repeated in quicker and shorter 
 reverberations, yet sublime and peculiar in their retreating 
 succession, until lost, like connected crashes of thunder, as 
 they rolled along the most extended side of the rocks, and 
 were spent in low thunder in the opening towards the sea. 
 It was indescribably fine. The repetition of the first 
 cannon had not ceased its rapid succession of reverbera- 
 tions on each of the three sides of the cove, until the next 
 gun spoke to the yet vibrating air, to be repeated in its 
 turn, until the succeeding gun prolonged the sound. And 
 when our own cannon had ceased their handsome fire of 
 twenty-one guns, the forts immediately opened, and return- 
 ed the salute, as the hills seemed to have awoke from a 
 silence of ages, to give forth their burning fires and sleep- 
 ing thunders. 
 
 Just previous to our reaching the place of our mooring, 
 our Hindoostanee, who has been nicknamed Handsaw, 
 (whose real name is Hassan Hassaul,) seemed greatly 
 delighted that he had gotten into a region where he might 
 find cast, in color and language. When the Arab came 
 on board, the said Handsaw, being the steerage cook, was 
 not in the habit of wearing either hat, cap, or chapeau. 
 But after his first interview with the Arab, he disappeared 
 beneath the hatches, and when again seen, a purser's new 
 
166 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 handkerchief, as a turban, was upon his head. This was 
 not objected to. But when the word was passed for all 
 hands to clean themselves, as is usual when nearing a 
 port, Hindoostanee Handsaw re-appeared on deck, clad in 
 petticoats, sash, and turban. Approaching the First Lieu- 
 tenant, with great hesitation and considerable stammering, 
 as if he had already committed a punishable offence, he 
 at length, with an oblique glance at his own unique gar- 
 ments, muttered out, "Fashion of the country, sar these 
 country fashion, sar" by all of which he meant to say, 
 If you please, I will dress after my own cast. " Get out 
 of that, you rascal, you," cried the Lieutenant, to the great 
 dismay of the brown Handsaw "get out of that instantly, 
 or I will have you at the gangway, sir !" Hassan Hand- 
 saw sunk beneath the hatches, to appear no more in his 
 suit Hindoostanee. 
 
 We learn from Captain Calfaun, that his Highness, Syed 
 Syeed Bin Soultan, Sultan of Muscat, as he is styled in 
 the treaty, and in the descriptions of Muscat, as they have 
 been given in the narratives of the two voyages of the U. 
 S. ship Peacock, has left Muscat, and is now at Zanzebar, 
 where he has been residing for two or three years, having 
 left Muscat soon after the Peacock's second departure from 
 this place. The son of Syed Syeed Soultan, whom his 
 father has left there, receives the title of his father. And 
 this title, instead of being Sultan, is here called, by the 
 Arabs, Imam, pronounced Ee-maum. But both the Ameri- 
 cans and the English, as a title more familiar to their ear, 
 style him Sultan, in imitation of the title of the Grand 
 Seignior of the Turks. 
 
 This morning the Commodore waited upon the young 
 Imam, or Sultan, as we shall continue to style him, being 
 the heir apparent to his father's possessions, and his repre- 
 sentative here in his father's absence. Captain Calfaun had 
 come on board the frigate to accompany the Commodore 
 and the officers who attended him, to the palace, which is 
 a large but plain building, situated directly on the edge of 
 the bay. We landed near the residence of Captain Cal- 
 faun, and proceeded to his house, where we remained until 
 Captain C. himself repaired to the palace, (kings' houses, 
 all know, are called palaces,) to inform his Highness that 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 167 
 
 the Commodore was on his way to wait upon him. On 
 the return of Captain C., (a few moments having expired, 
 which we had spent in looking at the match-locks and Ara- 
 bian sabres ornamenting the walls of the room where we 
 were sitting,) he conducted us along a number of winding 
 and narrow streets ; and having passed through crowds 
 of half naked Arabs, turbaned Arabs, gracefully robed 
 Arabs, and yellow, red, and dark-skinned Arabs, all entirely 
 respectful in the indulgence of their curiosity, we at length 
 came to the gate of the palace, which opened from the 
 narrow street to a passage-way leading to the court, around 
 which the walls of the dwelling are built. The walls of 
 this passage-way were studded with all manner of war- 
 like weapons, from the gun with its match-lock, to Damas- 
 cus blades in leather scabbards, kingers, not unlike a bowie- 
 knife, and spears, all having about them a peculiar look of 
 antiquity, either from their much use, or age, or fashion ; 
 and the match-lock, in particular, would have astonished 
 the sportsmen of the modern school of percussion caps 
 and wafer wads. At this point, we passed through a line 
 of his Highness's guards, whose arms were decorating the 
 walls ; and then, proceeding along the court containing a 
 few orange trees and stunted bananas, we entered a hall 
 or passage-way, leading from the court to a piazza, called 
 by others, the divan. This passage was lined by a number 
 of better dressed guards, with kingers in their girdles, orna- 
 mented with silver hilts. They saluted us as we passed. 
 The piazza or saloon overlooks the harbor, the water 
 washing the wall on- which it is based, with a full view of 
 the shipping and the elevated and castellated rocks, which 
 inwall this picturesque cove. The piazza runs the whole 
 width of the building ; and the upper end of it was car- 
 peted with Persian rugs, with settees and chairs arranged 
 at its sides. His Highness was standing, with four or five 
 of his friends and advisers on his left, ready to receive us, 
 as we entered. The Commodore and his officers were 
 severally greeted by his Highness and his friends, with a 
 familiar shake of the hand, after our own American style 
 of meeting, each one then taking a seat, the Commodore 
 near the Sultan, as Captain Calfaun placed himself nearly 
 opposite the Prince and next to myself, in the range of our 
 party. 
 
168 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The Prince was glad to welcome the frigate Columbia 
 into this port, he said, and hoped the Commodore and his 
 officers were well, and inquired after the health of the 
 President of the United States. 
 
 Commodore Read made the usual replies ; and during 
 the conversation took the opportunity to say, that the 
 President, the government, and the citizens generally of 
 our country had felt and expressed a deep sense of the 
 Sultan's great kindness towards the officers and crew of 
 the Peacock. And he had hoped that he should have been 
 able to convey a more particular expression of that feel- 
 ing, than it was now in his power to give. He had been 
 under the necessity of leaving the United States before 
 the government had definitely acted on the subject which 
 had awakened their additional interest towards his High- 
 ness, and he hoped, ere long, that his Highness would 
 again hear from the government of the United States in a 
 manner yet more acceptable than his present statement 
 could be. 
 
 The Prince replied, that it was but very little that they 
 had done for the Peacock, and that so trifling a circum- 
 stance could hardly require any acknowledgment. 
 
 Here was deep sarcasm, or else great magnanimity. 
 Prithee, Americans, which was it ? No one who saw the 
 ingenuous countenance of the Prince, or his principal ad- 
 viser, who was the speaker on this occasion, and is the 
 favorite cousin of the Prince, could have read any satire 
 in their expression, and I am sure there was none in their 
 feelings. 
 
 Coffee, sweetened with crystallized sugar-candy, was 
 served by one of his Highness's oldest eunuchs, a slave 
 long attached to the family of his young Highness's father, 
 as Captain C. said to me as he gave me the names of the 
 different persons present. After this, lemonade, made 
 from sweet lemons, was passed. The coffee was served 
 in small cups, resting in corresponding silver ones. The 
 lemonade was passed in common glasses. 
 
 We sat with the young Prince and his relatives, and 
 others of his council, for three-quarters of an hour. His 
 cousin, a young Arabian of thirty-two or three years of 
 age, was the principal speaker, and has a sprightly intel- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 169 
 
 lect. A lad, son of this last, was also present, whose at- 
 tention to all that was said was particularly marked for 
 one so young, as he sat with his hand upon the hilt of 
 his Damascus blade, almost as long as himself. Captain 
 Calfaun's brother also was present, the two brothers strik- 
 ingly resembling each other, and their features indicating 
 considerable cleverness. The young Sultan has a round 
 face, with full, large eyes, greatly striking in this burning 
 region, where the sun, darting forth his scorching rays, 
 forbids the Arab ever to open his eye with the expanding 
 frankness of the European. And this fine feature, with 
 his rotund face, corresponded with the idea I had con- 
 ceived of a Persian, rather than one of the princes of Ara- 
 by. His wife is said to be a Persian Princess ; and an 
 allusion to his marriage, which took place at the time the 
 Peacock was last here, originated a conversation, which 
 seemed to please the whole party. 
 
 I trust it will not be deemed out of place, when allud- 
 ing to another incident, occurring a moment before our 
 leave-taking of the Prince. It was gratuitous on the part 
 of Commodore Read, and unexpected on the part of my- 
 self; and, in connection with the succeeding papers, it 
 becomes a necessary part of a correct description of our 
 presentation. The Commodore had alluded to the Presi- 
 dent's Message, and would give Captain Calfaun the docu- 
 ment to be interpreted to his Highness, so far as it related 
 to a mention made of the generous action of the Sultan 
 towards the Peacock. And you will please further say to 
 his Highness, added Commodore Read to the cousin of 
 the Prince, that a young gentleman of the Columbia, re- 
 collecting that the Arabians are a poetic people, has pen- 
 ned some lines, evincing the general feeling of interest 
 cherished at home, in connection with the kindness of his 
 Highness, the young Sultan's father, towards the officers 
 and crew of the Peacock. He would be happy to present 
 them to the Prince, that they may, through him, be con- 
 veyed to his Highness's father. The Commodore bowed 
 to myself as the writer of the lines ; and when Captain 
 Calfaun had interpreted the Commodore, the Prince, with 
 a courteous acknowledgment, said that he would be 
 most happy to receive the communication, and would 
 
 15 
 
170 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 transmit it, as desired. I did not, at the moment, possess 
 the lines which had been alluded to, and replied that they 
 should be handed to Captain Calfaun at some other time, 
 before we sailed. 
 
 It was the object of the presentation, to produce as 
 favorable an impression upon the Prince and his family 
 as practicable, in view of the interests of our commerce, 
 and of humanity. If, therefore, the following papers, 
 which were sent to the young Sultan, as the consequence 
 of this allusion of the Commodore, shall in any degree 
 contribute to the good- will and kindly feelings existing 
 between his Highness the Sultan of Muscat and our own 
 citizens, I shall be happy that they were penned, and for- 
 warded as further described. 
 
 My own communications were enclosed in the follow- 
 ing letter from Commodore Read : 
 
 To His HIGHNESS SYED SYEED BIN SOULTAN : 
 
 I had anticipated, on my arrival at Muscat, the pleas- 
 ure of being able, in person, to tender to your Highness 
 the assurances of the sincere good wishes, which the 
 President of the United States continues to cherish for 
 the happiness and prolonged prosperity of your Highness. 
 And while transmitting the accompanying papers, penned 
 by my Chaplain, as evidence of the general kind feeling 
 which the generous course of your Highness towards 
 the Peacock has created in the United States, I fully be- 
 lieve, although I have not been instructed by my Gov- 
 ernment thus to say, that your Highness, ere long, will 
 again hear from the President of the United States, in a 
 manner more accordant with the generosity and great 
 merits of your Highness. 
 
 I am, with high considerations of respect, 
 
 Your Highness's obedient servant, 
 
 GEORGE C. READ, 
 
 Commanding the U. S. Naval Force in the Indian Seas. 
 Harbor of Muscat, October 20th, 1838. 
 
 The following are the two papers, alluded to in the 
 preceding letter of Commodore Read : 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 171 
 
 His HIGHNESS THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT 
 
 Will excuse the freedom of one who admires his magnani- 
 mous and elevated character, for the liberty which is taken 
 in transmitting to his Highness the enclosed lines. They 
 are sent as evidence of the cordial sentiment of admira- 
 tion which affects the writer's own bosom not only, but 
 also of all those who have heard of the generous action of 
 his Highness towards the officers and crew of one of the 
 United States ships, when she was near being stranded 
 on the Arabian coast. 
 
 Will his Highness receive the sincere wishes of the 
 writer, that the years of his Highness may still be long 
 and happy, as they have been beneficent and glorious. 
 
 FITCH W. TAYLOR, 
 Chaplain of the U. S. Frigate Columbia. 
 Harbor of Muscat, October 18th, 1838. 
 
 The following are the lines alluded to in the preceding 
 note: 
 
 TO HIS HIGHNESS SYED SYEED BIN SOULTAN, SULTAN OF MUSCAT. 
 
 SULTAN OF MUSCAT ! thy proud story 
 
 Lives where the day-beam latest falls, 
 And thy name famed in Eastern glory, 
 
 Is heard within the Western halls ; 
 And far o'er seas to Oman's waters 
 
 A nation's thanks we bear to thee, 
 And long their thousand sons and daughters 
 
 Will bless the Prince of Araby. 
 
 Not purest pearls from Bahrien's ocean, 
 
 Not diamond gems from eastern mines, 
 Not hoarded gold of proudest Imam 
 
 Could win the hearts from western climes ; 
 But courteous deeds and princely dealing 
 
 Their stranded sons received from thee, 
 Hath met a nation's grateful feeling, 
 
 Who laud the Prince of Araby. 
 
 For such as thee, in martial strains, 
 
 The notes of clarion should be swelling, 
 
 And minstrel harps and sybil-lines 
 
 Thy deeds in glorious verse be telling ; 
 
172 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLfl. 
 
 And storied rolls and fadeless pages 
 Trace bright thy name and chivalry, 
 
 And chronicle for deathless ages 
 The generous Prince of Araby. 
 
 And bright thy name, with glory streaming, 
 
 Shall light the page of future story, 
 And fairer than thy fellows gleaming 
 
 Shall fix the gaze of young and hoary ; 
 And though, like meteor-lights declining, 
 
 The sheen of other names may die ; 
 Thy deeds shall be for ever shining, 
 
 Thou glorious Prince of Araby. 
 
 O Araby, of olden story, 
 
 Though fairy-spells live in thy name, 
 Deserts, green, sheiks, and all hath glory, 
 
 As in our youth we learned thy fame ; x 
 
 Yet mountain-gems, and myrrh, and balms, 
 
 And tales of proud antiquity, 
 We lose them all, while verse proclaims 
 
 The proudest Prince of Araby. 
 
 Then peace attend thee in thy glory 
 
 Of Eastern climes and golden treasure, 
 And years of life gleam long before thee, 
 
 To fill the chalice of thy pleasure ; 
 And where the sun goes late to rest, 
 
 Far o'er the deep and wide blue-sea, 
 There SYEED BIN SOULTAN shall be blest, 
 
 As noblest Prince of Araby. 
 
 The preceding papers, in a sealed envelope, to his 
 Highness Syed Syeed Bin Soultan ; together with their 
 duplicates unsealed, were sent, through Captain Calfaun, 
 with the following accompanying letter, to the young 
 Prince, on whom we had called : 
 
 To His HIGHNESS THE IMAM OF MUSCAT. 
 
 We anticipated the pleasure of paying our respects to 
 his Highness, your illustrious father, on our arrival at 
 Muscat. But in his absence, we are happy that we shall 
 have the privilege of conveying to him, though your 
 Highness, the grateful considerations which every Ameri- 
 can citizen, as well as the Government of the United 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 173 
 
 States, must continue to feel towards your illustrious fa- 
 ther and his distinguished family, for the noble manner 
 with which he treated the officers and crew of the U. S. 
 ship Peacock, when she was near being lost at Mazeira. 
 
 Will your Highness, therefore, excuse the freedom of 
 the request, that the accompanying papers, addressed to 
 his Highness, your father, may be forwarded to him as 
 opportunity may offer ? A duplicate of the same is sent 
 to your Highness, alike to evince the high respect and 
 grateful consideration which the writer and his country- 
 men feel towards the whole family of your distinguished 
 father. 
 
 FITCH W. TAYLOR, 
 Chaplain of the U. S. Frigate Columbia. 
 
 Harbor of Muscat, October 19th, 1838. 
 
 But to return to our sitting with the Imam and his suite, 
 from which we digressed for the insertion of the prece- 
 ding papers. We soon after left the palace ; Commodore 
 Read having given the Prince an invitation to visit the 
 Columbia, which was accepted. On our leaving the Imam, 
 it was with the usual ceremony of shaking hands in our 
 own style, with cordial good feelings, apparently by both 
 parties ; and while Captain Calfaun accompanied the Com- 
 modore and other of the officers to look at the Sultan's 
 horses, I returned to the edge of the bay to meet the two 
 boats, seen pulling from our frigate, with their flags at the 
 stern, declaring that they were bearing one of their num- 
 ber to the shore, for his burial. As I reached the landing 
 place, a dark Arab approached me, taking from the folds 
 of his turban the following note ; 
 
 " SIR, 
 
 " The bearer of this note will conduct you to the bury- 
 ing ground. Also, some of his Highnesses guards will 
 attend you. 
 
 " Your obedient servant, 
 
 BIN CALFAUN.'" 
 
 The boats soon reached the shore, and the body of the 
 poor sailor was borne by his messmates, accompanied by 
 the officers of the boats and the assistant surgeon, and a 
 
 15* 
 
174 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 crowd of Arabs and Africans, whose curiosity collected 
 them to witness the ceremony of an American burial. 
 We proceeded through the narrow and winding streets, 
 until we passed out of the southmost gate of the inwalled 
 city ; and after proceeding through the range of bamboo 
 houses clustered together without the walls, we soon 
 reached the spot where the grave had already been dug. 
 The crowd, from their loud and noisy chattering, became 
 silent as our party all uncovered, and the ceremony of 
 interment was said above the body of the departed sailor. 
 And while they were now filling the grave, a collection 
 of masked women at a bamboo tent at some distance on 
 the steep aslant above us, commenced their wail for the 
 dead. We left this worthy tar to sleep in his foreign 
 grave, beneath the pouring rays of an Arabian sun. His 
 death was sudden, and occasioned by the intense heat of 
 the sun, on the afternoon of our mooring our ship. An 
 active seaman and petty officer, he had exerted himself 
 on the yard while furling sails, and with his hat off, suf- 
 fered the sun to beat upon his uncovered head. He fell 
 soon after his reaching the deck, and died in the course 
 of an hour. One or two others were affected, but have 
 recovered so far as to be out of danger. 
 
 The sides of the high rocks which surround, on three 
 sides, the narrow cove on which the city of Muscat is 
 situated, are like so many mirrors, converging the sun's 
 rays to a focus, and thus concentrating the heat upon a 
 vessel which lies within the harbor. At the moment of 
 our mooring ship and furling sails, at about four o'clock 
 P. M., the sun's rays, from this circumstance, were in- 
 tolerable, where one was exposed to them. And though 
 I made no particular note of the degree of heat we ex- 
 perienced while at Muscat, I am told the thermometer rose 
 to 110 in the sun, while kept on the gun-deck, and in my 
 own room it generally ranged, during the day, at 86. 
 The nights were comfortable, and the officers generally 
 rested well. But during the day, the perspiration was 
 streaming from every pore ; and in no case have I ever 
 perspired so freely, for a succession of days, as at 
 Muscat. 
 
 On the day succeeding our presentation to the young 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 175 
 
 Sultan, who is about twenty-three years of age, I went 
 on shore to visit Captain Calfaun, and spent some time 
 with him in his upper rooms. 
 
 Captain Calfaun has been in the navy of his Highness, 
 the Sultan of Muscat, and is said generally to have com- 
 manded the vessel in which the Sultan himself has sailed, 
 when visiting different parts of his possessions. He 
 seems to be a good Mussulman, and is particular in con- 
 forming to the ceremonious observances of his religion. 
 We had a long conversation on the peculiarities of the 
 Mohammedan and the Christian systems ; and it seemed 
 his wish rather to leave with me the impression, that the 
 followers of Mohammed venerated the character of Jesus 
 Christ as profoundly as ourselves. And yet, while he 
 affirmed that they considered Jesus Christ to have had, 
 in his generation, no earthly father, but was born of Mary 
 by the exercise of the power of the Almighty, and that 
 Mohammed was born of earthly parents ; it was evident, 
 at the same time, that Captain Calfaun did not feel that 
 Jesus Christ was a greater prophet than Mohammed, or 
 was other than a prophet, like Moses, and others after 
 Moses, and Mohammed after Christ. Jesus Christ came, 
 at the time he did, to save certain tribes of people, 
 and was persecuted. Mohammed also was persecuted 
 for the first few years of his mission, but was finally suc- 
 cessful in establishing his purpose, and was the latest and 
 the last prophet whom God had sent or would send to the 
 earth for the welfare of mankind. 
 
 His peculiar sect, which prevails in Oman, differs in 
 some things from the generality of Mussulmans, particu- 
 larly in connection with their idea as to a metaphysical 
 speculation about the visible appearance of God. They 
 affirm that God, being a spirit, can never be seen, while 
 others suppose that he will be visible to the inhabitants of 
 another world. Their whole system, however, represent- 
 ing the future state as a physical existence, would, of 
 necessity, introduce a thousand difficulties, were they at 
 all given to philosophical reasonings. But it is my pur- 
 pose elsewhere to devote a paragraph to the subject of 
 the religion of the Arabs, and, therefore, I waive it 
 here. 
 
176 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 In speaking of the toleration which his Highness the 
 Sultan cherishes towards his subjects of different creeds, 
 Captain C. assured me, in reply to a question on the sub- 
 ject, that there would be no opposition made to the loca- 
 tion of an American missionary at Muscat. 
 
 But, I continued, should such a missionary succeed in 
 making a Mohammedan a Christian, in what manner 
 would the Arabian afterwards be treated by his tribe and 
 countrymen ? 
 
 " That would be impossible," Captain C. replied. " A 
 missionary could not make a Mohammedan a Christian." 
 
 But, I continued, with a smile, suppose the missionary 
 did succeed suppose by argument and conclusive reason- 
 ing with Captain Calfaun, he should make Captain C. 
 renounce his present creed and join the Christians, how 
 then would his Highness treat Captain Calfaun ? 
 
 " His Highness, or the true Imam, would kill him," con- 
 tinued Captain C. 
 
 But would not that be rather cruel, and uncharitable ? 
 I asked. 
 
 " But it would be just," continued Captain C., " for I 
 should deserve it" 
 
 Here then is seen the amount of toleration an Ameri- 
 can missionary would receive at Muscat; or rather, it 
 presents to him the probabilities of his success, and the 
 consequences of such success to the converted Mussulman. 
 Were there an American population at Muscat sufficient 
 to render it desirable to have Christian services and the 
 residence of a Christian minister, his Highness would im- 
 pose no obstacles to the establishment of a church for 
 themselves, any more than he opposes the existence of a 
 Banyan temple, which is tolerated within the city walls, 
 with all their Banyan peculiarities, glaringly opposed to 
 the professed dislike of the Mohammedans to all idol- wor- 
 ship. But should a convert from among the Arabs be 
 made to the Christian religion, an immediate opposition 
 would be raised ; and the Sultan, who is generally at the 
 head of the spiritual as well as the civic power, would be 
 obliged to interfere ; and in case the two powers, civic 
 and spiritual, were not invested in the same individual, 
 the Imam, who is at the head of the spiritual power, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 177 
 
 would act, without appeal, in his opposition to the intro- 
 duction of the Christian system. 
 
 It is not always the case that the Imamship is united 
 with the chief civic power. It is required, in the case 
 where they are invested in the same individual, that the 
 Prince shall possess sufficient theological knowledge to 
 enable him to deliver a discourse before the doctors or 
 priests, and the assembled shieks of the different tribes, 
 who have elected or made the reigning power. If, how- 
 ever, the Prince decline, either from incompetency or 
 other reasons, thus to discourse before the assembled 
 chiefs, he does not receive, in fact, the title of Imam, 
 while, at the same time, it is generally accorded to him, 
 in courtesy. This is the state of things in the case of his 
 Highness, the present Sultan of Muscat. He is called 
 Imam by courtesy, though he has never gone through the 
 ceremonies, and assumed the spiritual obligation, which 
 the title supposes. 
 
 Early on a succeeding morning I went to take a view 
 of his Highness's horses, tethered near the beach, at the 
 eastern side of the city. We passed along the narrow 
 bazaar, principally occupied hy the Banyans ; at the end 
 of which is their temple, with sketches of wretchedly 
 drawn houses and ships covering its walls. Both the Ban- 
 yans and the Arabs seem entirely ignorant of perspective. 
 Their ships and houses are fac-similes of the first essays 
 of the nursery, in drawing a man or a mouse, or a horse 
 or a house. The Sultan's stables are arranged within an 
 inwalled square of considerable size, with a roof extend- 
 ing quite around three sides of the area-wall, sufficiently 
 wide to protect the animals from the rays of the sun. A 
 fixed rope, attached by a noose over the fetlock-joint of 
 the hind legs of the horses, preserved them in their place, 
 and prevented them from doing mischief either to them- 
 selves or others. We saw a few tolerably fine horses, 
 among the forty or fifty animals in this collection. But 
 most of them, disconnected with their Arab associations, 
 would not have commanded fifty dollars a piece, for a 
 dray in New-York. There was one beautiful mare with 
 sleek limbs, strikingly in contrast with the stiff joints and 
 clumsy legs of most of the horses we saw. Captain Cal- 
 
178 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 faun said, that quite a number of his Highnesses best horses 
 had been sent from Muscat, a few days before we arrived. 
 As we returned through the bazaar, I purchased some 
 Persian rugs, which were very pretty, and must be very 
 durable, judging from their material and compactness. 
 Others were afterwards purchased, by several officers of 
 the ship. These rugs are brought in boats from up the 
 Persian Gulf, to Muscat, and sold at auction here. They 
 are afterwards, a considerable supply of them, sent to 
 Bombay. 
 
 THE SULTAN'S VISIT TO THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 The young Sultan, having accepted the invitation of 
 Commodore Read to visit the Columbia, came on board 
 with his suit in the afternoon, at the hour which had been 
 fixed upon. He was attended by his principal minister, 
 who is a cousin and a young Arab Prince of decided cha- 
 racter ; also a brother of the young Sultan about fourteen 
 years of age, a bright lad ; and the commander of the 
 Sultan's guards, who is said to have fought some hard 
 battles ; together with Captain Calfaun, Captain C.'s brother, 
 and several others of the Prince's officers and retainers. 
 
 The gig and cutter left the frigate at four o'clock to 
 bear the young Prince and his suit to the ship. Our crew 
 were all in their clean dresses, and the officers in their 
 cocked hats and swords, ready to receive this young 
 Arab. The yards were manned, and as the Prince came 
 over the side of the frigate, the music beat the roll, while 
 the marines, in full-dress, presented arms as the Prince 
 descended to the deck. The music repeated the roll suc- 
 cessively as his Highness's chief counsellor and the Prince's 
 young brother came over the frigate's side. They were 
 all received by the Commodore and First Lieutenant in 
 advance of the other officers, who then, together, walked 
 to the quarter-deck. The beat to quarters at once dis- 
 persed officers and men to their several places ; when the 
 Prince, through his interpreter, Captain Calfaun, was in- 
 formed that the frigate was now in the attitude assumed 
 when about to engage an enemy ; Would he walk 
 through the ship and examine her ? 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The whole party passed fore and aft the three decks, 
 and having sufficiently gratified their curiosity, entered 
 with the Commodore into his cabin ; to which all the offi- 
 cers were then invited. The Commodore, with his usual 
 taste, had arranged his table with fruits, sweetmeats, sher- 
 bet, lemonade, &c., of which they partook ; after which 
 coffee was served. 
 
 The young Prince, seated on the right of the Commo- 
 dore, said but little himself. His minister was the chief 
 speaker and the primum mobile of the scene, here as at 
 the presentation of the Commodore at the Sultan's divan. 
 He is decidedly the most intellectual Arab I have yet seen, 
 is about thirty-five years of age, with a sprightly flow of 
 words and play of the muscles of his face ; while his 
 speaking eyes give forth their expressions, as indices of his 
 emotions. The Prince's young brother sat next below 
 the minister on the Commodore's left, and opposite to my- 
 self. There was no wine on the table, it being contrary 
 to the religion of the Mohammedans to partake of it, or of 
 any other spirituous liquor, until they reach the highest 
 heaven of their paradise. The Commodore, however, 
 with a smile that was understood, said he would take wine 
 with the Prince if he would allow him. The compliment, 
 as meant, was interpreted to the Prince, who offered the 
 precepts of his religion as his apology for declining. But 
 the gentleman beside me, said one of the officers, drinks 
 wine, sir. The Lieutenant alluded to Captain Calfaun's 
 brother, who had been in France, and had gained some 
 knowledge of the French language. " No, sir," added the 
 courtier, " I do not drink wine in the present company." 
 
 While Mohammed, the young brother of the Prince, 
 was sipping his coffee, I indicated that I would drink coffee 
 with him, as there was no wine on the table. The coffee 
 seemed particularly agreeable to his taste, but the Com- 
 modore's cups, so large in comparison with theirs, were 
 rather unmanageable in his hands, and his own awkward- 
 ness so amused himself, as to betray him into an audible 
 laugh. This young brother of the Prince was now com- 
 plimented for his fine head and teeth, and general appear- 
 ance, all of which was merited by the apparently clever 
 lad ; and his teeth were but counterparts of his brother's, 
 
180 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and others of his family. They are strikingly white, clear, 
 and preserved thus by the use of a particular root, which 
 serves them as a brush. 
 
 " His Highness," said Captain Calfaun, addressing my- 
 self, " has seen you twice, and in both instances in black. 
 He desires to know the cause of your wearing it ?" This 
 curiosity seemed to be awakened by the contrast of my 
 dress with others of the officers. 
 
 I replied that it was the uniform dress of the Chaplain 
 of the ship. 
 
 Captain Calfaun, apparently not comprehending the 
 term chaplain, I added, that it was the dress of the reli- 
 gious officer on board the ship, corresponding, in part, 
 with the religious office of the Imam on shore among 
 themselves. The Catholics, of whom they had known 
 more than of the Protestants, would call me the priest, for 
 which title we use the term minister or clergyman, and 
 on board of ship, chaplain. 
 
 His Highness replied, that he had supposed I wore 
 black as mourning for the loss of some friend. And could 
 he have read the heart at the moment of his mentioning 
 it, he might have seen it wreathed in weeds, as it even 
 then bled at the recurrence of the thought that I was, in- 
 deed, in mourning for one who sleeps to wake no more, 
 until the hour that shall wake us all at the last day. 
 
 The party rose and retired to the private cabin of the 
 Commodore. The cousin of the young Sultan and his 
 principal counsellor, now continued the conversation, in- 
 quiring as to the age of the Columbia. He was told that 
 this was her first cruise. 
 
 " And the John Adams, was she also new V 
 
 " She had lately been repaired, which was almost the 
 same as being newly built for the cruise, but had long 
 been in the service." 
 
 His Highness continued, that they were greatly pleased 
 with their visit to the Columbia admired the ship and 
 was sure that his Highness his father would greatly re- 
 gret that he was not at Muscat himself to receive us, and 
 would have been particularly pleased with the Columbia's 
 visit, as she was the first large frigate that had ever visit- 
 ed the waters of Muscat. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 181 
 
 The Commodore re-assured his Highness of the kind 
 feelings of the President and people of the United States ; 
 and fully believed that they would manifest it in their 
 future intercourse in his Highness's ports. 
 
 His Highness replied, that Americans would always 
 be welcomed, and that every thing would be done that 
 was possible for their happiness and convenience. 
 
 But, said the Commodore, our frequent visits to your 
 ports would cause you a considerable expense, if you 
 should insist, in all instances, as you have done in this, 
 that our ship shall be supplied gratuitously. 
 
 " We are friends" said his Highness with emphasis, 
 " now, and are happy that it is so. And we hope that it 
 will continue to be so from father to son, and from sons 9 
 sons, down to the latest time of our family, and FOR EVER," 
 he added, as he seemed a- moment to hesitate for the last 
 word, in the evident increase of his feelings, in the gen- 
 erous glow of the noble sentiment. 
 
 How great a pity, said the Commodore, addressing 
 myself, that we do not understand all languages ! This 
 sentiment of the Commodore was an expression of regret 
 that he could not tell this Prince, as forcibly as he would 
 wish, the sincerity of the good feeling of the American 
 people, in their high appreciation of the character of the 
 Sultan of Muscat. 
 
 Captain Calfaun was desired, however, to say, in reply, 
 which was the last sentence interpreted to his Highness 
 in this talk, having particular reference to the feelings of 
 the two governments towards each other, that " when we 
 returned to America, the President and the citizens of the 
 United States would be told in a language which they 
 would entirely understand and feel, how true and how 
 generous is the friendship of the Sultan of Muscat towards 
 the people of the United States." 
 
 The Commodore now ordered the two boats to be 
 manned, as the Prince and his suit were about to take 
 leave of the ship. The awnings had been furled while 
 we were in the cabin, having been spread when the 
 Prince and his party came on board. The yards were 
 ready to be re-manned. The young Sultan regained the 
 deck, and as he left the ship, the music and the presenting 
 
 16 
 
182 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 arms of the guard complimented him as he passed over 
 the side of the frigate to the boat. So soon as the boats 
 had pulled to a suitable distance from the ship, their crews 
 rested on their oars, as the loud note of the first gun of the 
 frigate loomed over the still waters of the bay, succeeded 
 by twenty other loud-mouthed pieces, in compliment to 
 his Highness, to be reverberated in rolling thunders along 
 the high defile of rock, which nearly surrounds the har- 
 bor. The scene was a fine one ; and when our own 
 pieces had ceased their voice of national compliment, the 
 oars of the two boats were seen again to dip, in regular 
 stroke, for the shore, while the guns of the returning sa- 
 lute from one of his Highnesses vessels, opened, to prolong 
 and to return, with an equal number of guns, our fire. 
 
 VISIT TO THE CAMP OF THE BEDOUIN ARABS. 
 
 I went late on shore, in the evening, with a design to 
 take a stroll to the camp of the Bedouin Arabs, the Sul- 
 tan's retainers, who are quartered in their tents about 
 three-fourths of a mile without the walls of the city. 
 
 I called at Captain Calfaun's ; and our Consul, who was 
 there, taking my arm, we started for a charming evening's 
 walk. The sun is scorching during the day, but now it 
 had gone behind the high cragged peaks which stretch 
 every way around Muscat, and had just settled beneath 
 the notched outline of the rocks, even before I had left 
 the Columbia, sleeping at this pleasant hour on the bosom 
 of the picturesque cove. We passed along the narrow 
 streets, leading to the western gate of the city ; and being 
 assured that it would not be closed until our return, we 
 passed out and followed on to the encampment, which was 
 located in a ravine between two high defiles of rocks, the 
 only kind of a location that could be found in the neigh- 
 borhood of Muscat. 
 
 On reaching the encampment, we perceived that some 
 few of the Bedouins had already placed their mats in the 
 open ravine for their night's repose beneath the bright stars ; 
 while the early twilight, however, was yet streaming over 
 the mountain rocks, and clothed the scene in the softness 
 of the early sunset-hour. As we neared the Bedouin 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 183 
 
 lodgment, we observed the polite old chief a short distance 
 from his tent, in the oper air, at his sunset-worship, with his 
 face turned towards the soft west, while the bright cres- 
 cent of the moon was mingling her silver light with the 
 early twilight of the hour, to light up the whole of the 
 camp. Several Bedouins approached to welcome us; but 
 as we perceived that the old chief had not finished his 
 prayers, and some others of the camp were making their 
 three inclinations to the ground, we said that we would 
 pass on a little distance further and stop on our return. 
 
 We paused at one of the numerous wells in this neigh- 
 borhood, where the water is drawn by an ox, with a rope 
 reeved through a block, which hauls up a goat-skin of 
 water, as the ox descends an inclined plane, reminding 
 one of his boyhood, when he has labored to drag his sled 
 up a steep hill for the pleasure and ease of gliding down 
 again, with this advantage or apology for the boy, that 
 there was a necessity in the case for the youngster thus to 
 proceed, if he would gain his purpose ; whereas, in the 
 case of the ox, in this arrangement for drawing water, he 
 would find his convenience much improved, with proper 
 machinery, by walking over a level surface, rather than 
 wasting himself both by the uncomfortable gait of descend- 
 ing, and the necessary great effort of reascending the in- 
 clined plane. 
 
 We turned off to the back of the encampment to find the 
 inwalled area, where the Banyans feed and cherish and 
 pet their cows, which, it is said, they worship. Their creed 
 at least embraces the idea of transmigration of souls ; and 
 they suppose when the spirit leaves the body, it enters into 
 one of these or other animals. A thatched roof extends 
 on the inside around the wall of the enclosed area, to shel- 
 ter these, their deities, during the heat of the day. We 
 entered the enclosure without any obstruction, as the gate- 
 way was open, and no Banyan, at the moment, was near. 
 We were cautious in our advance, lest some rude one of 
 their godships should take it into his horned head to sport 
 with us. Soon after, however, three Banyans came into 
 the enclosure as we approached several of the cherished 
 cattle. One of the keepers, manifesting that some of the 
 animals we were looking at were mischievous, I indicated, 
 
184 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 by placing my hand upon the hilt of a sword, that I would 
 prick their hides for them if they approached too near ; 
 at which, the keeper's astonishment being manifested in his 
 countenance, I reassured him that I would not injure his 
 creatures, nor trifle with his religion, however preposterous 
 it might be ; while, at the same time, it was my purpose, 
 to ascertain how great was the reverence they cherished 
 for these beasts. 
 
 There were several beautiful creatures among a larger 
 number of most miserable and apparently half-starved year- 
 lings and calves. Their horns w r ere mostly stained with 
 red or black, in imitation, I suppose, of their tattooed and 
 yellow-skinned worshippers, who, as a cast, exhibit some 
 fine specimens of manliness in their persons ; with their 
 peculiar turban arrayed high on their head, like a bishop's 
 cap as cut on chess-men, with a small solid twist in front, 
 which might emblem forth a young stump of a horn grow- 
 ing from the brow. I marked particularly one gentle 
 creature, a brindle-colored ox, thick and short, with a 
 white freckled face. He looked like a favorite, and there 
 was gravity and kindness in his countenance, and friend- 
 ship in his manner, and a white frill of his superabundant 
 hide extended down his neck and breast and along the 
 belly, and wreathed itself in graceful folds over his hind 
 legs. 
 
 I was told by Mr. M., who was walking with me, that 
 the Arabs here sometimes impose upon their Banyan neigh- 
 bors. If they have an indifferent calf or cow, and would 
 dispose of it at a good price, they take the animal to the 
 house of a Banyan, whose religion forbids him to kill any 
 living creature, and whose veneration is particularly turned, 
 with tenderness, towards the bos-genus. With a knife 
 drawn they assure the Banyan, that if he does not give 
 them the price demanded, the animal shall die. It is an 
 appeal which the Banyan finds it difficult to resist ; and the 
 shiners are dealt out, and the rescued animal conveyed to 
 the enclosure, to feed upon dates, until he shall become 
 sufficiently sleek to be conveyed to their sacred land of 
 Hindoostan ; which is their home, and where they often 
 return themselves, after an absence of ten, twenty, or 
 thirty years. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 185 
 
 We bid the Banyans and their petted animals good-by, 
 as their keepers were giving them their evening meal of 
 dates ; and after a few moments, reached the tent of the 
 Bedouin chief. Two or three of the Arabs came out to 
 welcome us before we reached the entrance, and the old 
 chief rose from his couch and placed us beside him, with a 
 
 fraceful and cordial shake of the hand. I had no sooner 
 isplaced my hat than several of these long-haired Arabs 
 were around me in their beautiful and artless simplicity, 
 while one of their number seized a fan and swept it before 
 me, bearing by me the grateful currents of the cooling air. 
 In a few moments, others brought a dish of halwah, a spe- 
 cies of sweetmeats, and desired me to partake as the old 
 chief raised it for me to smell it ; of which I partook with 
 my fingers, having removed my glove, and thus we ate it 
 together, from the same dish. Two other Bedouins with 
 their flowing curls approached the one who was using the 
 fan, and with considerable earnestness desired to relieve 
 him. But the first had secured the honor of thus showing 
 a courteous attention to a guest, and insisted upon his privi- 
 lege of continuing to perform his part in the civilities and 
 simple hospitality of the artless and beautiful Bedouins. 
 He was a beautiful and graceful figure, that half-naked 
 Bedouin, as he stood before me, and swept his fan while I 
 sat with the chief. I would I could ever retain such a 
 picture in the imagination. There he stood, with a smiling 
 countenance, which was the beautiful smile of artless na- 
 ture with smooth features, thin lip, and white teeth, and 
 dark amber skin, and jet hair falling in profuse ringlets, 
 with a fillet over the forehead pressing the flowing curls 
 gently back and over his uncovered shoulders, displaying 
 his slim and well-formed person the whole length of his 
 chest. And he not only smiled, but all smiled ; and he 
 was not only doing what he believed to be most agree- 
 able to the guest, but all were ready to spring on any errand 
 for the same purpose. And when we had slightly eaten 
 of the halwah, and the chief called for coffee, three equally 
 beautifully curled and raven-headed Arabs shot to the back 
 of the tent, vieing with each other to see which should first 
 bring forth the hot pot of coffee, with its accompanying 
 little cups. In an instant the beverage was at our lips, 
 
 16* 
 
186 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and we sipped two cups with the old chief, who in his art- 
 less grace and amiable manners, reminds one of a patri- 
 arch, surrounded by his hundred grown and handsome 
 children, each delighting to move at his beck, and would 
 be greatly ashamed if all was not done that could be done 
 to render pleased and happy their stranger-guest. 
 
 The Sultan of Muscat, it is said, at a short notice can 
 call to his service eight or ten thousand of these Arabians 
 of the interior ; and on any march through his possessions, 
 their numbers would be continually increasing. Three or 
 four hundred of these Bedouins are continually retained, 
 at the expense of the Sultan, without the walls of the city, 
 to which they have ingress and egress at their pleasure 
 during the day. And you see them during the hot part 
 of the day, in the pride of their own free and bounding 
 elasticity of disposition and person, arrayed along the nar- 
 row and shaded bazaars ; and with their flowing and full 
 dishevelled curls, bearing their match-lock, or shield and 
 Damascus blade, or spear and kinger, mingling with the 
 turban-headed Arabs of the city and Banyan merchants ; 
 and exhibiting an acceptable and picturesque contrast with 
 all else about them. 
 
 The interior of Oman, which yields allegiance to the 
 Sultan of Muscat, is divided into different tribes, with a chief 
 at their head. And in each jurisdiction there is a castle or 
 stronghold. The shiek, or chief, administers the law in 
 his own tribe, who have a right to appeal to the Sultan in 
 case either party deems itself aggrieved by the decision 
 of the shiek. The chiefs of these different divisions are 
 appointed by the Sultan, and hold their place with the sim- 
 ple condition of fealty, to be manifested by the supply of 
 men as soldiers from his tribe, according to the Sultan's 
 requisition. It is the old feudal system of Europe, in many 
 particulars. And in case the Sultan should abuse his 
 power, the different chiefs, like the old barons, can and have 
 retired within their strongholds, and brought the Prince to 
 their terms. It is the policy of the present Sultan to pre- 
 serve the friendship of the Bedouin tribes of the interior; 
 and he is said to treat them with the greatest liberality, 
 never dismissing any that call upon him without a present 
 or some mark of particular kindness. The consequence 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 187 
 
 is, that he has secured their affection and attached devo- 
 tion. 
 
 We parted with no little interest with the aged chief 
 of this Bedouin encampment, and his young and dark- 
 haired attendants, whose glossy ringlets so gracefully 
 hung in long curls upon their necks and shoulders, or in 
 some other instances were gathered in a tie behind, with 
 the ends hanging loosely, in the mode of the Greek. Their 
 fine features, soft smile, and incomparably beautiful heads 
 of hair, curled and glossy, and daily dressed with oil of 
 cocoa-nut, together with their beautifully developed mus- 
 cles of the shoulders and arms, rather effeminate than 
 otherwise, and yet not unmanly, presented a more pic- 
 turesque and interesting bust than has met our eye besides, 
 and is more in keeping with nature and taste than the 
 shaved and turban-headed Arabs of Muscat. 
 
 We returned, by invitation, to Captain Calfaun's, to 
 take tea with him, this evening, and found a cup of the 
 delicious beverage refreshing indeed, after the heat of the 
 day and the stroll of the evening. Captain Calfaun's, and 
 one or two others, are the only families in Muscat who 
 are in the habit of serving tea. Captain Calfaun and 
 some of his guests were reclining upon Persian rugs and 
 bolsters, while I occupied a comfortable couch. After tea 
 we were shown through several of the upper apartments 
 of the house, besides the well-furnished and large room 
 in which tea was served. One or two of these rooms 
 were surrounded with lattice-work, constructed from the 
 split bamboo, which is so graceful and light a thing for 
 ornamenting the upper and even lower apartments, in 
 warm climates. Two rooms which we entered, one 
 quite on the top of the house, were without roofs ; and 
 the bright stars were looking down upon us, with their 
 sweet smiles, as we gazed delighted from the turreted 
 chamber up to the blue halls above us. It is not astonish- 
 ing that an Arab of ancient times should become an as- 
 trologer, reader and worshipper of the stars, when his 
 home is so constructed as to catch the smiles* of the heav- 
 enly goddesses, so graciously contemplating their worship- 
 per, and holding their night-vigils above his sleeping- 
 couch. 
 
188 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Captain Calfaun has shown himself every way attentive 
 to the officers of the Columbia, in contributing to their 
 pleasure and convenience, and left with them a feeling of 
 great kindness towards himself for his polite attentions to 
 them. And as this gentleman has been the object of 
 frequent mention in the accounts given of the visits of our 
 ships to the port of Muscat, his character may naturally 
 awaken some interest with those who may peruse these 
 pages. He is a fine specimen of an Arabian of his own 
 tribe and sect. A perfect gentleman in his simple, easy, 
 and unostentatious manners ; moving with ease in his 
 graceful costume, and doing every thing with a fitness 
 which prevents the attention from being arrested by any 
 incongruity, eccentricity, or personal peculiarity. And 
 this, whether he is in the presence of his Prince and other 
 members of his Highness's family and his own people, or 
 on board of our ship, moving among ourselves, with man- 
 ners and customs totally unlike the habits and usages of 
 our Arabian friends. His costume is a red or black cloak 
 with sleeves, over a thin white and long under robe, but- 
 toned low at the neck. These are gathered about the 
 waist with a sash, in which is placed a silver-mounted 
 kinger. A turban of fine check-linen, edged with red 
 and yellow stripes of silk, wreaths his head. This, with 
 sandals, which are composed of a sole of leather for the 
 foot to rest upon, and an ornamented strap to cross the 
 instep of the foot, compose the costume of this Arab 
 gentleman. Besides the kinger in the sash, he bears a 
 long Damascus blade in its sheath, in his hand. 
 
 This dress, as described here, is the same as the cos- 
 tume of the Prince, only the outer robe of the Prince was 
 black, and laced with a fringe of gold thread about the 
 neck, and down the front on each edge of the folds. 
 
 Captain Calfaun seems sincere in a cherished purpose 
 of visiting, at some time not far onward, the United States, 
 and evidently is partial towards the Americans. We 
 doubt not but that he would receive a welcome, that 
 would re-assure him in the kind feeling he has cherished 
 towards the citizens of the United States, and find his 
 own hospitality and politeness reciprocated when visit- 
 ing their shores. He, at least, may have the assurances 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 189 
 
 of a cordial reception from those who have been so happy 
 as to form his acquaintance in his own native Araby. 
 
 As evidence of the continued good feeling of the Sul- 
 tan of Muscat towards the Government of the United 
 States, we found that the John Adams, having met his 
 Highness at Zanzebar, brought to Muscat an order that 
 the Columbia should be supplied with water and provis- 
 ions, on her arrival at this place, on her way to Bombay. 
 Water has been conveyed to our ship in the Sultan's own 
 boats, and by the Sultan's own subjects, at the Sultan's own 
 expense. We have received, also, almost daily, since we 
 have been lying here, fruits, as presents from his High- 
 ness grapes, pomegranates, etc., together with sheep and 
 goats. The Commodore expressed a hope that his High- 
 ness would, at least, suffer him to pay the men, who, at the 
 expense of so much labor, watered our ship after we had 
 been eighty days at sea ; but it was replied, that his 
 Highness would not allow it, and if any thing were re- 
 ceived in his absence, it would meet his displeasure. Now, 
 this is all a generous action on the part of this Arab 
 Prince, which exhibits his hospitality in a light that should, 
 at least, make the American people feel that some hand- 
 some compliment from them would receive a worthy dis- 
 position, should it reach so magnanimous a Prince as the 
 Sultan of Muscat. And though I know not how far our 
 commercial interests shall be furthered by the treaty 
 which has been formed between the two governments, I 
 yet should be ashamed of my own country, should it be 
 justly said, that the generosity and hospitality of an Arab 
 Prince surpassed the munificence and liberality of the 
 American Government.* 
 
 It is our purpose to weigh anchor, and leave the cove 
 of Muscat this afternoon, October 25th. The evening 
 breeze regularly prevails, and with it we expect to gain 
 an offing that will leave the high shores of Oman, by the 
 morning, low in the western distance. 
 
 * Since the visit of the squadron to Muscat, a vessel belonging 
 to the Imam arrived in the United States, bearing presents ; and on 
 her return, she conveyed from the President reciprocated testi- 
 monies of- good feeling between the two powers, to the Sultan of 
 Muscat. 
 
190 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 SYED SYEED BIN SOULTAN S FAMILY. 
 
 It may not be uninteresting, in connection with this 
 Arabian Prince, whose possessions we are on the eve of 
 leaving, and by whose government our ships have been 
 so generously entertained, to give the following brief state- 
 ment, in connection with his Highnesses family. 
 
 The Mohammedan system entails endless dissentions 
 on those governments where it is embraced, in connec- 
 tion with the title to the throne. A Mohammedan is al- 
 lowed, by the Koran, four wives, and his children by his 
 concubines are also heirs to his father's titles. 
 
 Seyd Syeed Bin Soultan is descended from Aimed, (to 
 go no further back,) who, at his death, left five sons. Their 
 names were Seif, Kis, Soultan, Thabit, Mohammed. 
 
 Kis was chief of Sohar, a town less than a hundred 
 miles from Muscat, on the Persian Gulf, during his father 
 Almed's lifetime, and at his death. 
 
 Seif, the heir apparent, being the eldest son, was elected 
 Sultan* by the chiefs at the decease of his father. The 
 son of Seif, whose name was Aimed, succeeded his father. 
 But on this Almed's death, who is said to have been him- 
 self a wise prince, the government was left in confusion. 
 The chiefs, however, made Soultan, the third son of the 
 elder AJmed, Sultan, who was afterwards slain by the 
 Johasm pirates. This prince left two sons, the present 
 Sultan and his brother Salem. On the death of Soultan, 
 however, Kis, the chief of Sohar and brother of the de- 
 ceased Sultan, intrigued for the Sultanship. 
 
 On hearing of the death of the Sultan, Budr, a cousin 
 of the present Sultan and his brother Salem, and son of 
 Seif, having previously retired into the interior, and living 
 with the tribes there for some time, now returned, and 
 agreed to live on terms of amity with his two cousins. 
 While in the interior he had joined the tribe of the Wa- 
 habis, who were rapidly extending their power. The 
 three cousins now united their influence against the en- 
 croachments and pretensions of their uncle Kis, the gov- 
 ernor of Sohar. But Budr having ingratiated himself 
 
 * Im&m is the Arabic title. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 191 
 
 with the interior tribes, they were desirous of seeing him 
 made Sultan ; and aware of his influence with these 
 tribes, he entered into a secret treaty with the Wahabis, 
 that if they would place him in the Sultanship of Muscat, 
 he would contribute fifty thousand dollars to their tribe, 
 and hold his power as Sultan of Muscat, as a tributary 
 Prince to the chief of the Wahabis. 
 
 Syed Syeed, being now assured that his throne would 
 be insecure so long as this intriguing cousin Budr lived, 
 contrived to have him assassinated at a village named 
 Namhan, near Burka3, on the sea-coast. 
 
 The struggle, however, was not yet over. Saoud, chief 
 of the powerful and increasing tribe of the Wahabis, who 
 styled themselves reformers, with whom Budr had entered 
 into a treaty, as previously stated, now demanded that 
 Syed Syeed should ratify it in his own case. Syed Syeed 
 refusing indignantly so to comply, the Wahabi chief waged 
 war against him ; and with a force of 4,000 Arabs, under 
 Syed ibn Matack, a warlike and enterprising chief, so re- 
 duced Syed Syeed, that he was under the necessity of 
 seeking assistance from the Persians. Eventually how- 
 ever the death of his uncle Kis, followed by that of Saoud 
 and the dispersion of the Wahabis, left the present Sultan 
 Syed Syeed Bin Soultan in undisturbed possession of his 
 dominions. 
 
 These particulars of the family of the Sultan are given 
 on the authority of Welstead, a Lieutenant in the English 
 navy, who has lately published an account of his survey 
 and travels through the interior, and along the coast of 
 Oman. He pays a high compliment to the present Sultan 
 for his liberality, and the assistance which he derived 
 from him in furthering his purposes of science and trav- 
 els. This book, which was loaned me by our Consul for 
 a hasty perusal, I should like to have taken with me. But 
 I had heard an anecdote of another work, which would 
 have become too pointed towards myself, had I forgotten 
 to return the volumes to the courteous gentleman who 
 afforded me the pleasure of their perusal. 
 
 Captain Calfaun (as the story goes) possessed a copy of 
 the " Naval Monument," which contains a description of 
 all our engagements with the British, during the late war 
 
192 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 with England. An English officer, while one of their ves 
 sels was lying in the harbor here, seeing the work, desired 
 to borrow it. But when the English ship was about leav 
 ing the cove, the officer assured Captain Calfaun that the 
 book had gotten overboard in some unaccountable way, 
 or was otherwise displaced, and greatly regretted that it 
 could not be found to be returned. 
 
 The general smile at this statement, as the circumstance 
 was alluded to at the ward-room table, was sufficiently sig- 
 nificant ; and as there happened, very opportunely, to be a 
 copy of the same work on board, Captain C. was asked to 
 accept it, who assured the donor that he would be more 
 careful of the present copy, and would see that it did not 
 get wet or overboard if he loaned it again. 
 
 Captain Calfaun had translated some of the scenes in 
 this work, at the request of the Sultan, that he might learn 
 something of the actions of our navy. And while Cap- 
 tain C. was reading his Highness the account of Perry's 
 victory on the lake, at that part which describes his leav- 
 ing his own ship, on account of her being so much cut up, 
 in his small boat for another, the Sultan rose from his seat, 
 and exclaimed, with an emphatic gesture of his hand, 
 " THAT'S A HERO !" 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 193 
 
 SECTION VIII. 
 
 BOMB AY. 
 
 Bombay. Call upon the American Missionaries. Bishop Carr. Archdea- 
 con Jeffries. Rev. Mr. Fletcher. Stroll on shore at evening. Funeral 
 pyre. Breakfast with ihe Lord Bishop of Bombay and Family. Family 
 prayers. Schools for the children of the poor. The power of Cast. 
 Governor Farish. Call on the Governor's lady. Douglass. Evening 
 prayers. Governor's dinner, at Parel. Sir John A. Sir John Kean. 
 Ride from the Governor's to the Bishop's by moonlight. Caves of Ele- 
 phanta Island. Tea at Dr. Wilson's, Scotch Missionary, and President 
 of the Asiatic Society, at Bombay. Walk in the evening to the Hindoo 
 temples. The long-nailed devotee. Farewell to Bombay. 
 
 WELL, if, as they say, Bombay will give a stranger a 
 fever should he move much abroad, it is worth one fit of 
 illness to look at the medley of the fine and the finical ; 
 the grand, the great, the good, the grovelling, the gloomy, 
 and the grievous ; the nondescript, and the non-to-be-for- 
 gotten, which this very strange city of Bombay presents. 
 
 I have been on shore this evening, after a busy day of 
 writing to friends at home, by an American vessel, which 
 we fortunately chanced to intercept while standing into 
 the harbor, and detained for our letter-bag. 
 
 It was rather a late hour when I reached the shore, but 
 I saw enough to assure me that there is much to be seen, 
 and yet much more which cannot be seen in a passing 
 week. It is all a vast and mingled variety, which strikes 
 with deeper impressions than would be the case if ad- 
 dressed to an eye that had contemplated the different parts 
 which go to form the variety, at the different spots of the 
 world with which they are severally and singly associated. 
 It is England abroad, here, that meets the eye it is the 
 French, and the Portuguese, and other powers of European 
 the East, and specimens.from all India, gathered at this point, 
 with their gray hairs of olden years and crowded masses. 
 
 The object of my visit to the shore, this evening, was 
 to make some inquiries for future convenience ; and on land- 
 ing, I was trotted away and around in a palanquin, borne 
 on the shoulders of four Hindoos, a guide pacing at my 
 
 17 
 
194 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 side, to direct this Eastern car whither I desired. What 
 would my friends have thought of me, could they have 
 taken a peep at me, just at the dusk of evening, borne on 
 as I reclined in so strange a machine, on black shoulders 
 of black limbs, with turbaned head and ambling elbows ? 
 They would have seen me, as before I had not dreamed 
 ever to be seen. In all this varied and mingled vision of 
 the city, there are a thousand things of light and shade, 
 and oddities and fantasies, which must long lie in the 
 memory, when reviewing the ever-varying forms, in which 
 the character and the taste and the religions of mankind 
 present themselves, in this very strange city of the East. 
 As my sympathies directed, my first ca//made in Bom- 
 bay was upon the American missionaries. I passed through 
 the city at an early hour the next morning, when all is life 
 and bustle. And what a city is Bombay ! Some may be 
 disposed to accuse me of painting. But I paint only from 
 my own feelings. And he who has feeling, and loves to 
 look at mankind in its varied forms, with susceptibilities 
 capable of fresh and deep impressions, and has contem- 
 plated mankind, with but few exceptions, in its better and 
 similar forms of European and American peculiarities, 
 will not accuse me of heightening the coloring, if he should 
 chance ever to move, at this same hour, and at his own 
 lounging ease and leisure, through the streets of Bombay. 
 It was a new world to me, though in the old world, a far- 
 wanderer from the new. I had read of Hindoos. I had 
 read of Banyans, Bramins, Gentoos. I had read of the 
 Parsees, Mohammedans, and Sepoys. But it was never 
 among the young dreams of my earlier years, while musing 
 on Rome, and Greece, and blessed England, and Europe, 
 and the Holy Land, that I should look upon these hundred 
 casts of Arabia and Persia, and India, in their variety of 
 costume and manners and religions. But now, I was set 
 down amidst all this medley of casts these unique forms 
 these strange incongruities and endless varieties these 
 naked busts and robeless legs and thousand-formed and 
 colored costumes of those who were robed and the tat- 
 tooed, with ringed toes, and foot, and ancle, and wrist, and 
 hand, and nose and numberless and ever-occurring varie- 
 ties of enslaved or degraded, and rich and proud, and mean 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 195 
 
 and good and noble men, with every colored skin from 
 the jet of Africa and amber of Asia, to the lily of Europe. 
 And then, the describable and the non-describable animals 
 the Banyan and sacred cows, and buffaloes, and sparrows, 
 and ravens, and pigeons, and goats, and other things innu- 
 merable, all crammed and jammed and jumbled and hud- 
 dled, and yet all a mass of moving and acting life this, 
 this is Bombay, to the newly arrived stranger, as he is 
 borne through the capital of an English-Asiatic presidency. 
 
 If this be a confused collection of appellatives and 
 blended images, none but a jumbled and almost accidental 
 combination of words, could rightly or naturally describe 
 the confused, and varied, and ever-varying scene, as it 
 breaks on the eye of the stranger, as he moves, for the first 
 time, through the streets of this epitome of a world. 
 Some days pass on, and the newly arrived begins to an- 
 alyze and arrange. By the time he has traversed the length 
 of one of the streets, he finds himself beginning to class 
 the different casts, as they pass him by, and are known by 
 their different turbans these head-dresses varying with 
 the cast, but alike to all the members of each and the 
 cut and make and color of the flowing robe or tighter 
 costume, and the religious mark, lined in yellow paint, in 
 curve or oval or straight lines or dots on the forehead, or 
 eyebrow, or ear, or naked chest, begin to take, in his mind, 
 their appropriate classification. 
 
 With this varying and apparently ever-changing vision 
 of a phantasmagoria before my view, I had gone some two 
 miles or more from the walls of the fort, which includes 
 some large portion of the city within its winding defences, 
 when I came to the residences of the American missionaries. 
 The buildings are sufficiently spacious, to afford conveni- 
 ent and comfortable rooms, for the purposes and the dwell- 
 ings of these worthy disciples of the religion of Jesus 
 Christ, and philanthropic exiles from their country and home 
 to the shores of India. 
 
 The gentlemen of the mission were out at the moment 
 of my call. I sent my card to the ladies, and immediately 
 followed the messenger, who informed me that they were 
 in. I could have left my shoes at their door, so profoundly 
 do I venerate the character of the sincere missionary, and 
 
196 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 admire his self-sacrifice for the welfare of his fellow men. 
 I was introduced to Mrs. Webster, the interesting wife of 
 Mr. W., of popular and just fame as an ingenious man and 
 accomplished printer, as well as a man of benevolence and 
 Christian philanthropy. Mr. and Mrs. Balentine, missiona- 
 ries from the interior, are guests of Mr. and Mrs. Webster, 
 at the present moment, having, with Mr. and Mrs. Boggs, 
 and Mr. and Mrs. Munger, come to Bombay, at this sea- 
 son, for mutual consultation in connection with their labors. 
 The two first gentlemen with their wives are staying with 
 the Rev. Mr. Allen. I gave Mrs. Webster my hand with 
 feelings which were most cordial, for the love wherewith 
 she serves the cause of our common Lord. The Rev. Mr. 
 Allen soon after entered, who occupies another house in 
 the immediate neighborhood, whom I afterwards called 
 upon. Ere long the Rev. Mr. Balentine and Mr. Web- 
 ster entered all gentlemen, whom the cause of missions 
 may justly be glad to have attached to their interests. 
 
 I sat for a considerable time with this band of Christians, 
 and was glad to witness so much simplicity of character 
 and Christian adornment, with minds so respectable for 
 their intelligence and refinement. I thought, as I con- 
 versed with Mrs. W., that there was a propriety of expres- 
 sion, a clearness of thought, and a simple chasteness of 
 manners that would have adorned any sphere in which 
 she might have been placed. And nothing but ill-bred 
 jealousy, profanity, or bigoted sectarianism, could offer 
 aught against such a becoming combination of Christian 
 propriety and unaffected example of Christian sincerity and 
 propriety in manners. 
 
 During the day, I w r as introduced to Mrs. Allen, of whom 
 I might repeat, with striking propriety, what I conceived of 
 the character and appreciated in the manners of Mrs. W. 
 These ladies have not forgotten that society has its techni- 
 calities and refinements, and that religion is a system of 
 good breeding, which makes it a school of true politeness 
 as well as of morals and devotion. 
 
 Mrs. Allen's health was not good, but her heart poured 
 forth its sympathies in the cause in which the missionaries 
 are engaged, and I shall remember with pleasure her gen- 
 tle manner, and the social repast, of which I partook with 
 Mr. A. and herself. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 197 
 
 I went with Mr. Allen to call upon Dr. Carr, Lord 
 Bishop of Bombay the Rev. Mr. Jeffries, the Archdea- 
 con and the Rev. Mr. Fletcher, the Bishop's Chaplain. 
 The Bishop was out, but we sat a short time with Miss C., 
 the Bishop's daughter, a young lady of gentle and agree- 
 able manners, and were soon joined by the Rev. Mr. 
 Fletcher and lady. Mr. F. is son-in-law of the Bishop, 
 and resides in his lordship's family. 
 
 We conceive of an India Bishop as we have learned of 
 a Heber, and know of others, who have left so favorable 
 an impression of their evangelical piety on the mind of the 
 American church. I sat with this family with these asso- 
 ciations, and left the Bishop's residence with Mr. F. and 
 Mr. A., to call upon the Archdeacon, whom we found at 
 home, although just returned from sitting in committee 
 with the Bishop and others connected with the charity 
 schools, which are established here on a commendable 
 scale, with government patronage, and are creditable to 
 the cause of British philanthropy. The Archdeacon is 
 deemed a benevolent and devoted man. The cause of 
 temperance has elicited his feelings and action, very much, 
 as I am informed, to the extension of so meritorious a cause. 
 " America," said the Archdeacon, "has achieved a greater 
 victory, in her efforts in the cause of temperance, than her 
 annals, however proud, can otherwise display. We ad- 
 mire her for her action on this subject, and have just re- 
 ceived the intelligence of the resolutions in the Legislatures 
 of Massachusetts and Tennessee, not to issue a single 
 license for the sale of ardent spirits in either of those 
 states." Our countryman, Mr. Delavan, so justly known 
 and estimated for his unceasing efforts in the cause of tem- 
 perance, is a correspondent of Archdeacon Jeffries, who 
 admires the spirit of this American patriot and philanthro- 
 pist. While the action of America in the cause of tem- 
 perance is awaking so much admiration, even in the distant 
 regions of the Indies, shall she herself slacken in her efforts, 
 and suffer the fields of so many victories to be resumed 
 by the devastations, desolations, and death, which spread 
 so fearfully beneath the tramp of intemperance ? 
 
 The English army is continually augmenting at Bombay, 
 as the rendezvous for the troops from different parts of the 
 
 17* 
 
198 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Indies, destined to the Indus, with a design to carry on the 
 war with the Persians. A document of interest, showing 
 the comparative health of the temperance men of the army 
 and those who continue to draw their grog, was lying on 
 the centre-table, and doubtless will be published. At times 
 the difference rose to four per cent., and was never less 
 than two and a half. This speaks volumes to our army 
 and navy department. It was a matter of exhilarating 
 information to the excitable Archdeacon, to learn that more 
 than 150 men of the Columbia did not draw their allow- 
 ance of liquor. 
 
 In the Indian army, the cause of temperance has found 
 many advocates; "and the commander-in-chief" so said 
 a gentleman of the party in conversation " by some pub- 
 lic act in favor of the temperance cause, before he leaves 
 ibr the Indus, is going to do the Archdeacon's heart good." 
 
 I parted with these clerical friends, with the expectation 
 of taking breakfast with them at the Bishop's, by invita- 
 tion, on Monday morning. 
 
 The American missionaries stationed at Bombay, Messrs. 
 Allen and Webster, and the gentlemen from the interior, 
 Messrs. Boggs, Munger, and Balentine, now with their 
 fellow laborers at this place, have visited the Columbia. 
 I was glad to pay them the civilities due to a class of our 
 own countrymen, who have left their native; kind to devote 
 themselves, with philanthropic mid Christian benevolence, 
 to the cause of humanity and religion. 
 
 The Commodore sent a special message to invite them 
 to the cabin, when they should have finished their walk 
 through the ship, and with great good feeling evinced his 
 desire to assure these gentlemen, that he appreciated their 
 characters as Christian missionaries, and in that character, 
 and also as American citizens, was happy to welcome 
 them on board the Columbia. On their taking leave of 
 the ship, after having spent some time with the Commo- 
 dore, he invited them, if it would be a matter of interest 
 for them to visit the Elephanta Caves, to make up a party, 
 and he would accompany them, in the ship's boats, to the 
 island, some six or seven miles distant. 
 
 I am sure that the Christian people of our country will 
 thank Commodore Read for his thoughtful and courteous 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 199 
 
 attentions to these generous exiles from their homes ; and 
 they will be happy to know that our ships were not for- 
 getful of the courtesies due and cordially accorded to our 
 missionary citizens, so worthy, and so far from the shores 
 or their native homes, and the scenes of their earliest and 
 happy recollections. The Commodore desired me to say, 
 that he would be happy to have one of their number give 
 us a discourse on board the Columbia the succeeding Sun- 
 day, and that he would send a boat ashore, at the appoint- 
 ed hour, in the morning. I was glad that the opportunity 
 was presented still further to show our feelings of appro- 
 bation and commendation towards these gentlemen and 
 their amiable associates ; and their number being increased 
 at this moment at the station of Bombay, by the visit of 
 the missionaries from the interior, it was arranged that one 
 of them should be with us on the succeeding Sunday. 
 
 FUNERAL PYRE. 
 
 I took a stroll on shore in the evening. Having wit- 
 nessed the drilling of the Sepoys, native troops in the 
 service of the company, at their evening exercise on the 
 esplanade, and passed the worshipping Parsees with their 
 face turned to the sea as one of the elements which they 
 adore, and who were now in considerable numbers gather- 
 ed, at this hour of sunset, on this beautiful ground of the 
 esplanade, to gaze on the departing god whom they wor- 
 ship, with other sects and casts at their sundown prayers, 
 I passed further on to the western side of the city, where 
 we had been told the Mahrattas burned their dead. The 
 sun had already gone down ; and when we reached the 
 beach, several fires were seen yet burning along the shore. 
 We approached them, but they were so nearly expended 
 that we saw but few indications, in the glowing embers, 
 of the relics of the cindered bodies. The uncrumbled ashes 
 of a few bones assured us, however, that we were gazing 
 upon the residuum of what, but a short time before, was 
 the articulated mass of sinew and bone and muscle of a 
 departed Hindoo, whose spirit his brother Mahrattas now 
 believe to have gone on its round of new births, or, as the 
 consummation of their ideas of the greatest conceivable 
 
200 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 good to the departing soul, was now absorbed in the spirit 
 of the Eternal. 
 
 While we were gazing on this expiring funeral pyre, 
 a person approached us, and pointed to a group not far 
 beyond us, who were raising a new pile, on which they 
 were to place the body they had borne with them but a 
 few moments before to the beach, attended by the sounds 
 of discordant music, for his last funeral honors. We 
 were glad that we were so opportune in our visit to this 
 beach of death, to gratify the curiosity that led us there. 
 Three upright sticks had already been planted in the sand 
 to confine the pile within its proper dimensions, and the 
 friends of the deceased, now lying near on his bier note- 
 less of the preparations which were making to reduce his 
 unconscious relics to ashes, were arranging the large and 
 dry sticks of teel-wood, which is kept prepared and vended 
 for the funeral rites of the Hindoo. When they had rais- 
 ed the pile to half the height they designed it, they bore 
 the body forward and lodged it on the mound of wood. 
 There was an old man there, who, like all the rest that had 
 gathered to pay the last honors of the cast to one of their 
 departed number, was clad only with a cloth around the 
 waist, as is usual on the occasion of the Hindoo obsequies. 
 He had gone to the edge of the sea, w^hich at this hour of 
 low tide was some rods from the pile, but soon returned 
 bearing a jar of water, and placed himself at the head of 
 his sleeping kindred. When he had poured from the palm 
 of his own hand a small quantity of water upon the face 
 and into the mouth of the unconscious sleeper, each of the 
 surrounding cast dipped their hands in like manner into 
 the jar, and poured from their two palms the water which 
 they had thus taken from the vessel, into the mouth of the 
 deceased. They now completed the pile, by adding as 
 much more of this heavy and dry material above the body 
 as lay beneath it. A small pile of light wood had already 
 been enkindled, and the burning fagots were placed among 
 the timbers of the funeral heap, and in a few moments the 
 drawing eddies of the wind fanned the flames, until the 
 pyre was enveloped in one ambient and glowing sheet 
 of fire. 
 
 The Hindoos now seated themselves in a crescent 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 201 
 
 around the burning pile, and the glare lighted up their 
 dark faces and naked shoulders, and threw a gleam of light 
 around, only to render doubly more deep the gloom that 
 had gathered on the adjacent cocoa-nut grove, and the 
 clouded bosom of the neighboring sea. We watched the 
 glowing mass as the body began to melt before the dis- 
 solving power of the resistless element. The swelling 
 muscles, with their boiling fluids, bursted the outer and 
 blackening coats of the body ; and soon the limbs were 
 dismembered at the knee, when the swollen feet, by a 
 long pole, were forced yet further into the glowing pile. 
 
 It was a thrilling scene, and we gazed upon it until the 
 dissolving body lessened before the flame, while the head 
 had melted away and still away, as the burning pyre sent 
 up and around its glowing and intenser heat, and yet 
 brighter and augmenting volumes. We bowed to the 
 surrounding and singular crowd, who rose from their sit- 
 ting posture as we left them, and retraced our way along 
 the shore. Having passed through the town on our way 
 back to our landing place, a boat soon took us to the ship. 
 
 According to the regulations of the cast, the heir of 
 the deceased is obligated to perform the funeral obsequies 
 of the connection, and at stated periods, afterwards, to 
 attend to certain rites, agreeably to the Hindoo customs 
 such as the offering of rice, flowers, water, and so forth, 
 to the deceased and to the manes, that the departed spirit 
 may ascend to the paradise of the Pitris, as they call the 
 divine progenitors of the human race. These offerings 
 are to take place on the eleventh day succeeding the death 
 of the deceased, and afterwards monthly, and on the an- 
 niversary of the death of the departed one. 
 
 VISIT TO THE LORD BISHOP OF BOMBAY. 
 
 Having received an invitation from Dr. Carr, Lord 
 Bishop of Bombay, to breakfast with him on the morning 
 of the sixth, I left the ship a little before eight o'clock, 
 and found, on my reaching the Apollo-bunder, a carriage 
 waiting for me, through his Lordship's politeness, to take 
 me to Byculla. 
 
 The Bishop is a venerable gentleman, simple in his man- 
 
202 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ners, with an air of kind diffidence in his address which 
 makes you esteem him and believe you would love him for 
 his goodness on an intimate acquaintance. 
 
 I reached the Bishop's residence a little before nine 
 o'clock. I was shown into a spacious upper room, into 
 which other rooms, nearly as spacious, communicated. In 
 front of these rooms runs a spacious and covered verandah, 
 constituting, itself, an upper hall, and extending quite the 
 length of the building. The verandah is common to the 
 best style of houses in Bombay, to protect the rooms from 
 the intense heat of the day, and affording a most agree- 
 able lounge in the cooler hours of the morning and even- 
 ing. A centre-table, with a large family Bible and Prayer 
 Book upon it, occupied its appropriate place. A piano 
 forte, also, particularly attracted my attention. And I 
 never look at this instrument when abroad, without having 
 my sympathies awake 
 
 " Some remembered notes of a mute lyre," 
 
 which carry me back to friends and kindred, to whom I 
 have listened almost in enchantment in past hours, but 
 whose voices now, in repetition of air, and song, and sacred 
 hymn, would hold me in deeper charm than ever, after an 
 absence of months away from home and sounds of familiar 
 voices. 
 
 The Bishop entered with his eldest daughter, Mrs. 
 Fletcher, leaning upon his arm. Who does not love to 
 look at such a sight a lovely and loved daughter, grown 
 to the pride of young womanhood, pressing gently on the 
 parental arm of a venerable father ? Miss Carr, a younger 
 daughter still, soon after entered the parlor; and the party 
 now gathered around the centre-table, when the good, and 
 I am sure, kind-hearted Bishop, opened the sacred volume 
 and read a chapter from one of Saint Paul's epistles, and 
 added his own reflections upon it. We all knelt, and to- 
 gether prayed to the God we worship. I could have wept; 
 for it was the first scene of social worship at the family 
 altar in which I had been privileged to mingle, since I left 
 the United States. 
 
 I am sure the susceptibilities of our nature are both 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 203 
 
 deepened and augmented for the reception of impressions, 
 by one's seclusion for months from society on shore. And 
 how like one's father's house, that morning and evening 
 service ! There is a beauty in the domestic scene, when 
 the family gather at early morn to testify their gratitude 
 to our almighty Preserver for the mercies of the night, and 
 at eve, for the blessings of the day. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Fletcher, the Bishop's chaplain and son- 
 in-law, joined us at the breakfast-table. 
 
 The family are on the eve of leaving Bombay for the 
 interior, where they spend some months in the mountains, 
 for health and pleasantness. The Bishop is just commen- 
 cing an extensive visitation through the interior. He 
 leaves, with all his family, on Wednesday. 
 
 At 1 1 o'clock I accompanied the Rev. Mr. Fletcher, to 
 visit the schools for promoting education among the poor. 
 They are, in many particulars, conducted on the principles 
 of our Free Schools in the city of New York. The Com- 
 pany has constructed two ranges of fine buildings, for the 
 separate accommodation of the boys and girls, which do 
 credit to the Presidency of Bombay, and speak well of 
 English benevolence and charity. 
 
 The schools are composed chiefly of the children of sol- 
 diers, being mostly of the mixed cast of Mahratta and 
 English. The children exhibited a very neat appearance. 
 We have no schools in our country with which we could 
 with propriety run a parallel ; as these children, I am told, 
 originally speak no English, and have to acquire that lan- 
 guage as they proceed in their studies. Most of the schol- 
 ars whom I saw were under the age of twelve. They read 
 English with very considerable accuracy, and seemed to 
 comprehend, as far as children of their age usually do, the 
 instructions which are given to them, in illustration of the 
 religion of Jesus Christ. The Bible is the principal and 
 last class-book used, and explanations in connection with it 
 enter into the plans of the directors, particularly for imbu- 
 ing the minds of these scholars with Christian knowledge ; 
 while they attend to reading, writing, and arithmetic during 
 the time of their connection with the schools. The boys, 
 when they have reached the suitable age and acquired the 
 necessary attainments, are apprenticed to the different 
 
204 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 trades, or taken as writers into the Company's offices ; or, 
 at the present moment, are attached to the army as dri- 
 vers of the teams, at. a certain rate of pay, to be gradu- 
 ally increased to the maximum allowance of the first of 
 that class. 
 
 I did not visit the schools composed purely of natives, 
 which are under the direction of the same gentlemen. But 
 the schools already described seem to be favorite objects 
 of the gentlemen connected with the superintendence of 
 the institution ; and they certainly deserve great credit for 
 the exertions, appropriations, and successful efforts which 
 have presented their benevolent institution in a very favora- 
 ble light. 
 
 The Right Honorable the Governor is President. 
 
 The Lord Bishop of the Diocese, Patron. 
 
 The Members of Council, the Judges of the Supreme 
 Court, the Commander-in-Chief, and the Superintendent of 
 the Indian Navy, are Vice Presidents. 
 
 The Archdeacon is Vice Patron, and 
 
 All the Chaplains of the establishment, who are subscri- 
 bers, are ex-officio Directors.* 
 
 There is an hospital department attached to the institu- 
 tion, with a medical attendant. 
 
 Morning and evening prayers are read ; and when the 
 pupil leaves the school, a Bible and Prayer Book are pre- 
 sented to him, with a testimonial of character when de- 
 served. 
 
 The Lady Patroness and Directresses transact the busi- 
 ness of the girls' department. 
 
 The fiftieth and fifty-fifth articles of the institution pro- 
 vide that the boys shall be instructed in reading, writing, 
 and arithmetic ; the girls in needle-work and household 
 duties ; and in both schools every endeavor is to be made 
 to "impart such information and useful habits, as the situa- 
 tion of the charity renders most desirable ; but particularly 
 they are to be instructed in the principles of the church of 
 England, and trained up in habits of piety and good morals. 
 And before the time at which they are to leave school, the 
 
 * To these gentlemen, and other ex-officio Directors, is confided 
 the government of the institution. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 205 
 
 boys are to be bound as apprentices if practicable, and the 
 girls disposed of by marriage, or with due consideration 
 restored to their friends." 
 
 The hope of the success of missions in the East must 
 continue to lie in the education of the native children. 
 Nothing else can break down the powerful influence of 
 cast, which with an iron chain binds each man to his own 
 peculiar clan. To lose one's cast, to a Hindoo, is to be an 
 outcast from a father's family, and an object of execration 
 to all relatives and acquaintances. A beautiful boy of the 
 Gentoo cast, who was riding with me in a buggee, with a 
 turban more elegant than usual and a hand that would have 
 graced a lady's arm for the roundness and smallness of his 
 ringers, tapering in perfect symmetry, replied to me, as I 
 was urging him to accompany me to America: "Me no go, 
 master me no go me eat no pork me eat no beef me 
 lose my cast" 
 
 " What of your cast, Alee ? American cast as good as 
 yours." 
 
 " Yes, master," continued the sincere Hindoo, " your 
 cast good to America English cast good to English, but 
 no good to Gentoo. Friend be dear to each other I no 
 have my friends more if I lose my cast." 
 
 " But if you come back and have your pockets filled 
 with money, you can get your cast again." 
 
 " Yes, master, I have two or tree hundred rupee, me get 
 my cast again." 
 
 " But, Alee, what would your cast do with the money 
 you would give them?" 
 
 " Cast give great dinner all can't come to it, but all 
 invited, and all come, who come." 
 
 We thus see that both prejudice, inconceivably strong, 
 and moneyed interests are against all innovation on the old 
 system. And no one can adequately estimate the strength 
 of this feeling of cast. It hoots at a renegade. And it is 
 almost impossible to approach the convictions of the mass 
 who are grown to manhood, if for no other reason, yet, for 
 their little or no acquaintance with English, as well as their 
 settled habits connected with their own creeds, which are 
 interwoven with every thought and action of their being, 
 and preclude the expectation of their appreciating or list- 
 
 18 
 
206 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ening to the argument for the truth of Christianity. The 
 setting in of English influence, however in some instances 
 it may tend to corrupt the people, must eventually carry 
 with it, over this empire of millions, a respect for the 
 Christian institutions ; and by the constant exhibition of 
 the superiority of their English masters, the Hindoos must 
 finally come to attribute this greater excellence to the su- 
 periority of the Christian system over their religion. And 
 this is in fact the secret of the national greatness of their 
 British conquerors over the submissive and superstitious 
 millions, adhering to their own Hindoo follies of religion 
 and cast. 
 
 And it is in this view we see the importance of the 
 schools of which we have been speaking, and others within 
 the boundaries of the Presidency, whether under the care 
 of the Government, or under the management of American, 
 Scotch, or British missionaries. The yearly throwing of 
 five hundred or a thousand children, who are to become 
 the heads of families, into this mass of heathenism, with a 
 knowledge of the two languages and the better principles 
 of the religion of Jesus Christ, cannot but have a gradual 
 and permanent influence upon the heathen population, and 
 in time, render idolatry a thing of ridicule ; and an adher- 
 ence to it, a matter of disgrace and shame to its devotee. 
 
 We passed by Christ's church, in which Mr. Fletcher 
 officiates, as we left the school buildings, with the intention 
 of calling upon the family of his Excellency the Governor. 
 The building is a creditable specimen of architecture, but 
 mostly interesting for its twelve or fourteen fluted pillars 
 of cast iron, of the Grecian order, extending in two rows 
 from the door to the altar, equidistant from the sides 
 through the nave of the church. Pilasters for the side 
 walls of the building correspond with the two central 
 ranges of columns. The beautiful capitals and the shafts 
 of the pillars are in one piece, and the diameter of the col- 
 umns I suppose to be a tenth of their length. 
 
 It was the day on which Mrs. Farish, the Governor's 
 lady, received her company. And the Governor had 
 been kind enough to say that he would see me when I 
 called upon Mrs. Farish. We were introduced by the 
 Governor's Aid, and sat a short time with Mrs. F. and 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 207 
 
 her daughter, a young lady of seventeen or eignteen ; 
 and met at the Governor's residence, which is a charming 
 spot, other ladies, who had called on the Governor's lady 
 at the same hour. 
 
 The character of Governor Parish is well known for 
 its benevolence, and the happy Christian influence which 
 he has thrown over the state of society in which he moves. 
 
 To the American missionaries, I have been assured, he 
 has been very kind, and advanced their desires as far as 
 they have come within the influence of his station, as a 
 member of the Council and as a Christian citizen. I con- 
 ceived a most favorable opinion of this worthy gentle- 
 man at our short interview. 
 
 An invitation had already been given by his Excel- 
 lency to our Commodore to dine with him on the succeed- 
 ing Wednesday, with such of his officers as he should 
 choose to have accompany him. 
 
 We returned to the residence of the Bishop ; and at 
 five o'clock sat down to dinner, the company having been 
 increased by the acquisition of a number of ladies and 
 gentlemen. A Captain Douglass of the Indian service, 
 formerly of the Royal Navy, was at the table. 
 
 " The Douglass." I cherish but little deference for 
 titles or names, or admiration for great men in loco, merely, 
 and believe that " nobilitas sola est atque unica virtus."* 
 Yet there is a charm in the name of Douglass which I 
 greatly appreciate, in connection with its olden associa- 
 tions. I have even formed an affection for the memory 
 of the Douglass and the Percy, associated as they indis- 
 solubly are together. And if the impression which I 
 gained be true, there is generosity and nobleness remain- 
 ing in this blood-descendant of the ancient house. The 
 Captain displays from his mast-head, as his private signal, 
 the emblem of his house. Allusion to the Douglass coat 
 of arms led to the remark on the part of Captain D., that 
 he was once sailing from England, when he discovered a 
 vessel with her union down, and made her out to be in 
 distress. He bore up for the ship, and as the two vessels 
 neared each other, he run up his private flag. " I know 
 
 * Virtue is the only and true nobility. Juvenal 
 
208 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 that emblem," exclaimed the master of the distressed ship, 
 as the flag unfurled itself and discovered the arms of the 
 ancient house. " It is the Douglass ; he will not forsake 
 me while my ship swims." The Douglass did not for 
 the distressed captain and his crew had barely reached 
 the deck of Douglass's ship before the wallowing vessel 
 went down to the deep currents of the deep sea. 
 
 It is said a Scotchman never forgets the land of his 
 home. Like the New-Englander, he may wander far 
 from his native hills and the remembered lawns, which 
 have left their unfading visions among the early impres- 
 sions of his mind and the young loves of his feeling heart. 
 And when he has wandered far, and made himself rich 
 and honorable, he yet often returns in his happy mem- 
 ories, and not unfrequently re-seeks, in person, the home 
 of his infancy, as the sacred spot to enjoy the calm of his 
 old days, and to repose, for its long rest, the urn of his 
 ashes. The Hon. Mr. Dunlop, member of Council, is a 
 Scotchman, and was of the company at dinner. Scot- 
 land seemed to be a word which had not lost its music 
 for him. And that lady now at the piano, he said to me, 
 in the evening, learned her music in Scotland. 
 
 And in the evening we had music. I shall not forget 
 it. The Bishop's two daughters played and sung. Their 
 voices were soft and gentle like themselves. And the 
 lady of the Highland associations also sung. There was 
 a thrill in her voice, which rendered it characterisic of 
 herself and agreeable. 
 
 After tea had been served, and the hours had advanced 
 into the evening, the party adjourned from the parlor to 
 the drawing-room, which communicated with it by fold- 
 ing-doors. There was an organ in the room, and the 
 family Bible and Prayer Book occupied the centre-table. 
 The Bishop placed himself at the centre-table, and his 
 daughter at the organ, as it had been proposed that we 
 should have prayers before the party separated. A 
 hymn was read by the venerable Bishop ; and he who 
 has been a wanderer over the world afar from his friends 
 in his native land, can appreciate the sentiment it con- 
 tained, as well as every Christian, to whom alike it is 
 applicable : 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 209 
 
 ** The Lord my pasture shall prepare, 
 And feed me with a shepherd's care ; 
 His presence shall my wants supply, 
 And guard me with a watchful eye ; 
 My noonday walks he shall attend, 
 And all my midnight hours defend. 
 
 When in the sultry glebe I faint, 
 Or on the thirsty mountain pant, 
 To fertile vales and dewy meads, 
 My weary wandering steps he leads, 
 Where peaceful rivers, soft and slow, 
 Amid the verdant landscape flow. 
 
 Though in the paths of death I tread, 
 
 With gloomy horrors overspread ; 
 
 My steadfast heart shall fear no ill, 
 
 For thou, O Lord, art with me still ; 
 
 Thy friendly crook shall give me aid, 
 
 And guide me through the dreadful shade." 
 
 The organ was accompanied by several voices. The 
 Bishop read a chapter from the Bible and added his com- 
 ments, and then, together, we knelt in prayer. 
 
 Is there any heart so callous that would not love such 
 a scene of quiet and social worship, exhibiting the beauty 
 of household religion ? And who, after the confusion and 
 the unrest of the day, would not repose with a more as- 
 sured and composed heart, after mingling in such a scene 
 of evening worship ? And who can behold a venerable 
 father, surrounded by his offspring and friends, thus de- 
 voutly engaging in social and sincere worship, and not 
 give him the earnest of an enduring friendship ? 
 
 Douglass, (I like that name,) had said to me in the 
 early part of the evening, that if I designed to return to 
 the ship, he would offer me a seat in his carriage to the 
 Apollo-bunder, and then send me on board the Columbia 
 in his gig.* I accepted the polite offer, and accompanied 
 Captain D. and his lady in their carriage, and bid them 
 good-night when they had ascended the deck of their 
 own vessel, to which we had been pulled in his own boat, 
 which soon after conveyed me yet further out in the 
 stream, to the good frigate Columbia. 
 
 * * The boat of the Commander of an armed vessel is called a gig. 
 
 18* 
 
210 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 DINNER AT THE GOVERNORS. 
 
 The Governor gave his dinner at the government-house, 
 on Wednesday evening, in compliment, in part at least, 
 to our Commodore. At half-past seven the carriages 
 disgorged their red-coats, and blue-coats of the English 
 army and American navy, and the black coats of the civil 
 list, composed of the Council and the bench of Judges ; 
 together with the Bishop and Chaplain and the variously 
 robed ladies, who, though mentioned last here, in this 
 instance is somewhat after the manner of their own 
 postcripts ; for which, it is said, a lady ever retains her 
 most interesting intelligence, or what, at least, is most in- 
 teresting to herself. 
 
 The Governor's house is a spacious building, said once 
 to have been a Roman Catholic cloister, the chapel of 
 which, on the lower floor, now serves as the dining hall ; 
 while the spacious room above it, to which you ascend 
 by two or three flights of steps, with suits of rooms and 
 a verandah on either side of it, forms the reception hall. 
 But the building has been refitted and enlarged, and now 
 is every way a creditable establishment for the purposes 
 for which it is appropriated, as the residence of the Gov- 
 ernor of the Presidency. Its distance is some six miles 
 from the inwalled portion of the town, and the ride to it 
 is a delightful one through extensive country residences, 
 built by the Parsees for the purposes of being rented to 
 the English ; and at this hour of the evening, when the 
 company were gliding by them, were lighted up with 
 their hundred lamps, giving forth the beautifully clear 
 flame of the cocoa-nut oil, burning in open glasses, around 
 which rose a yet longer one to protect the light from 
 flaring in the evening breeze, which comes deliciously 
 through the open windows, swinging on their hinges quite 
 down to the floor, that every breath of the refreshing 
 gale may sweep through the open rooms. 
 
 The large room w r ith the spacious lobbies on either side 
 formed by the verandahs, were soon enlivened by the 
 crowd that entered, and advanced to be presented to Mrs. 
 Parish, the Governor's lady, who had taken her place near 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 211 
 
 the centre of the room. The ladies were presented by 
 the Governor's Aid, a young officer of gentlemanly man- 
 ners. 
 
 Miss Carr, the Bishop's daughter, with her cousin, Miss 
 Parish, were the first two who entered the room after the 
 Governor's lady had taken her seat. And Miss Carr, I 
 am sure, will be remembered as an interesting vision of 
 amiableness, as if some ineffable beam had gleamed from 
 the benignant and subdued brow of her father, and lighted 
 on the sweet countenance of his child. We admired her 
 as possessing more truly an American face, manners, and 
 fashion than any others who were present. Her cousin, 
 the Governor's daughter, in blue, in contrast with the 
 plain and tasteful white of Miss Carr, is also an interest- 
 ing young lady, and seemed to be a worthy representative 
 of her excellent and very lady-like mother. There were a 
 number of other ladies present, generally plainly dressed 
 and without a superabundance of ornaments decorating 
 their persons, and therefore, more in taste than otherwise 
 they would have been. 
 
 The Governor was conspicuous in his civilian dress of 
 plain black, moving unostentatiously among his guests. 
 His face is strikingly benevolent ; and he is one I would 
 venture to take as a pledged friend, were circumstances 
 such as to secure from him, in an hour of one's need, the 
 plighted hand of sterling worth, and the action of a gen- 
 erous nature. In consequence of the death of Sir Robert 
 Grant, he is now the acting Governor of the Presidency, 
 an appointment which falls, ex-officio, on the demise of 
 the Governor, upon the eldest of the two civilian members 
 of the Council. 
 
 The Hon. Sir - , Knight, Judge, etc., was of the 
 number to whom I was introduced. I should suppose 
 him (but my impressions were the result of a short inter- 
 view) a man of great amiableness of character, with a 
 smack of letters, somewhat gifted, read in polite litera- 
 ture, and withal amiably eccentric. His manners are cer- 
 tainly so, resulting (is it not ?) from his keen perception 
 of the ridiculous. And when he would express himself 
 in connection with a subject, his own mind rejects the 
 common-place replies, and seizes hold of a more distant 
 
212 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 association ; and the very consciousness of its peculiarity 
 produces a peculiarity of manner which is his own, 
 though perhaps, from natural diffidence, the manner is 
 defective in its correspondence with the sentiment ex- 
 pressed ; while, at the same time, it betrays his own con- 
 sciousness that his remark has the merit of originality in 
 its associations, and is peculiar to himself. 
 
 " We are happy to acknowledge England as our mo- 
 ther-land," I observed in a conversation upon the two 
 countries, and added, after the usual self-complacence of 
 an American, notorious for having quite enough of it in 
 relation to his own country, " we trust England is not less 
 happy in owning us her child." 
 
 " That is," said the knighted Judge, catching at the first 
 part of my remark, " when we go back to the age of 
 Milton or Addison, we have the same progenitors." 
 
 And what American of English descent but cherishes 
 with laudable consideration the knowledge that his fathers 
 were of a nation that has so many names justly famed 
 and loved, as they have been chronicled in the rolls which 
 narrate their glory in action, their attainments in letters, 
 and their general excellence, goodness, and piety of heart? 
 
 And here, too, was Sir John Kean. And who was Sir 
 John Kean ? He was an English officer in red regimen- 
 tals, who entered the room with a bow, and a smile, and 
 a bend, and a nonchalance, speaking to one and to another 
 as he advanced to make his compliments to Mrs. F. ; all 
 which he did as one would do who knows that he is among 
 his own acquaintances, and that his acquaintances know 
 that his position is one that enables him to smile and no- 
 tice those he passes without compromiting his dignity of 
 station ; and who knows himself that his rank gives him 
 the precedence, and the privilege, as its legitimate conse- 
 quence, of acting just as he chooses, while he keeps within 
 the bounds of politeness. But who was Sir John Kean ? 
 A man who can enjoy a joke, even at his own expense, and 
 can acknowledge that he has been most shockingly whipped, 
 and that it was at the battle of New-Orleans ! Sir John 
 was one of the principal three English officers engaged 
 in the battle of the 8th of January, and on him devolved 
 the command when Packenham and Gibbs fell. He led 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 213 
 
 off the British forces from the deadly field. "Yes," 
 said the good-humored Sir John, "we were whipped, 
 most thoroughly whipped, by the Americans." Noble 
 confession, Sir John. It does thee no discredit, nor others, 
 but honor, to acknowledge the truth, though the action, 
 involved in that truth, in the ever-varying chances of 
 war, contributes nothing to the well-known and well- 
 earned glory of the arms of the British nation. 
 
 The company gazed at each other, and said what they 
 chose to anybody they knew, for a half-hour ; when they 
 adjourned to the dining-hall below. 
 
 The Governor's band gave forth the rich strains of its 
 music to regale the feasters, who had served before them 
 the variety and abundance of several courses, and some 
 Indian fruits which I had not before seen. 
 
 The gentlemen were not long after the ladies in their 
 adjournment from the table to the rooms above. And the 
 hours passed rapidly into the middle-watch of the night, 
 when the company left the palace. 
 
 A polite note from his Lordship the Bishop, who, with 
 a part of his family, had delayed his departure into the 
 interior for a day or two, had early in the morning con- 
 veyed to me an invitation to accompany him, from the 
 Governor's, to spend the night and the succeeding day 
 With himself and his family. I therefore paused, until the 
 spacious halls were vacated by all, save the Governor's 
 and the Bishop's families. Sir John A. also delayed. It 
 had been proposed by his Excellency, that family prayers 
 should be attended, before the Bishop departed. It was 
 indeed to me an acceptable termination of a dignified and 
 social entertainment, where had been gathered the prin- 
 cipal dignitaries in the civil and military service of the 
 Presidency, and from the first circle of the society in 
 Bombay. It was now an hour of stillness. The rumbling 
 wheels of the last carriage had rolled through the extend- 
 ed grounds. The brilliant lamps still lighted up the spa- 
 cious rooms, but no step was moving where, but a moment 
 before, the throng passed in social vivacity and friendly 
 cheer. The Governor's lady and daughter, and their 
 cousin, Miss Carr, had withdrawn to the room at the end 
 of the hall, where the gentlemen soon joined them. And 
 
214 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 was not this a worthy example to our men in power? 
 There had been nothing in the entertainment of the even- 
 ing inconsistent with the propriety of a Christian house- 
 hold. And his Excellency's family, with some of his 
 guests, had now gathered to make their acknowledgments 
 to the High Power that had protected and blessed us for 
 the day. It is religion which hallows all our enjoyments 
 gives additional dignity to the man in station ennobles 
 the man of lower degree and yields consolation, content- 
 ment, and happiness to all. We knelt around the family 
 altar in the Government-house ; and when we had risen 
 from our worship, we made our adieus to his Excellency 
 and his Excellency's most worthy and interesting family. 
 A lovely drive by moonlight, as the moon's bright beams 
 gleamed through the foliage of the tall cocoa-nut trees, 
 brought us, in a half-hour, to the residence of the Bishop. 
 
 The succeeding morning I took leave of the Bishop's 
 family, having engagements for the remaining part of the 
 week, which would prevent me from again calling at his 
 residence. The Bishop himself however designed, with 
 the Archdeacon, to visit the Columbia on Saturday morn- 
 ing. On Monday he would leave Bombay, accompanied 
 by his daughter. 
 
 I am greatly indebted to his Lordship for the attentive 
 politeness received from himself and family ; and I regret- 
 ted most sincerely that our early sailing would prevent me 
 from accepting his invitation so cordially given, that I 
 would accompany him and his family into the interior. It 
 would have gratified my desire of visiting the adjacent 
 country, and given me the happiness of attending him on 
 his visitation, and yet to prolong my acquaintance with his 
 amiable household. I know not that this page will ever 
 greet his Lordship's eye, but it is yielding a tribute to my 
 own agreeable and grateful remembrances, here to record 
 the pleasure of my brief but most acceptable acquaintance 
 with himself and his estimable family. 
 
 ELEPHANATA CAVES. 
 
 " Elephanta who goes to Elephanta to-day ?" " I 
 would not give a fig to see Elephanta." " I should not 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 215 
 
 like to have been to Bombay, and have to answer, on being 
 questioned, that I did not go to see Elephanta." " I should 
 care but little not to have seen the Elephanta caves, so far 
 as the mere having seen or not having seen them is con- 
 cerned ; but if, after leaving Bombay, the thought should 
 occur to me that a pleasure to be derived from a visit to 
 these caverns was within my reach and I neglected it, I 
 should be unhappy. To save myself from such a haunting 
 thought, I shall go to see the Elephanta caves." 
 
 Such and other expressions were made by various per- 
 sons, who felt more or less interest in connection with the 
 celebrated caverns which are excavated in the hills of the 
 island of Elephanta. I had myself fixed on Friday for 
 making an excursion to the Elephanta caves. I confess 
 that my own curiosity had diminished, in view of other 
 things of interest which were inviting me in the city. But 
 two days remained for our stay at Bombay. Having 
 been detained on board the frigate until ten o'clock in the 
 morning, the delay gave me an opportunity of going alone, 
 to visit this curiosity, justly reckoned among the most 
 interesting objects that can attract the inspection of the 
 stranger. 
 
 The bunder-boat which I had engaged to convey me to 
 the island, had a nice little cabin, large enough comfort- 
 ably to seat five or six persons, and in which three might 
 most comfortably lounge ; while sixteen men pulled the 
 boat over the water. Lingo, who had often accompanied 
 me on my excursions through the city and without it, 
 was ready to share my fortunes to-day. Off we glided, 
 as I threw myself upon a comfortable cushion and bolster; 
 and owing to the few hours of sleep I had enjoyed the 
 preceding night, I now yielded to the promptings of na- 
 ture and comfort to take a doze, during the two hours I 
 expected to be in reaching the island. And what else 
 should I have dreamed of but oiden giants, and hobgoblins, 
 and screech-owls, bats, and such like things, which are 
 said to dwell in the deserted haunts of men of other days, 
 and these now forsaken recesses of yet cherished and ven- 
 erated temples of ancient and superstitious Hindoos? 
 But ere long I regained my waking consciousness, and 
 amused myself for the rest of the way, with a story of 
 
216 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the once celebrated Goa, the capital of the Portuguese 
 East Indian dominions of olden and glorious memory, 
 which we are next to visit on our leaving Bombay. 
 
 I ascended from the beach, which is edged with dark 
 rocks at the point of my landing, along a path, leading 
 over patches of clay baked to a brick by the intense rays 
 of the sun. This path, winding along the ravine, soon as- 
 cended the side of the hill, covered with scattered trees 
 and undergrowth ; and more than half way up the ele- 
 vation, a diverging path conducted me to one of the lesser 
 excavations in the rock of the mountain. As I diverged 
 from the main track, I turned an inquiring look to Lingo. 
 
 " Not that way, master." 
 
 " Doubt that, Lingo ; come on, and we will see." A 
 few paces more satisfied Lingo, that I had either awaken- 
 ed a suspicion that he was desirous of getting too rapidly 
 over the examination of these cavernous recesses, or that I 
 had fallen upon one which he had not before seen. I stood 
 before the entrance of one of the smaller excavations. 
 
 To gain a correct idea of these artificial excavations 
 into the rocky hill, we must imagine a mountain-side, 
 studded with cocoa-nut trees and other ever-greens, shrubs 
 and vines, but thinly wooded, which forms one side of a 
 deep ravine. Half way up this hill-side your eye meets 
 a stratum of dark rock, rising abruptly and slightly reced- 
 ing. At the base of this rock, where the ground assumes 
 a comparative level, extending in a narrow strip in width 
 from the rock to the edge of the steeper part of the ra- 
 vine, the excavation is commenced. This is carried into 
 the mountain-side for a few feet, when a fissure, some six 
 or eight feet deep and as many wide is sunk in the rock, 
 from which, as the level of the floors of the excavated 
 rooms, the rocky chambers recede, though at the point 
 which I was at this moment contemplating they are but one 
 room deep. In front of you, when you have descended 
 the fissure, you have three rooms, about fifteen feet square 
 and nine or ten feet high. A partition of solid rock, smoothly 
 chiselled, is left between them, separating them into dis- 
 tinct chambers ; and the same is the case with the outer 
 wall, through which three entrances are cut, one for each 
 room. The centre one of the three entrances is orna- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 217 
 
 mented with various devices, chiselled in the solid case- 
 ment and lintel, and high over and wide around the 
 passage way; together with two immense figures, stand- 
 ing in lone solitude and silence, as I now saw them, like 
 two mighty giants, or huge knights of olden days, posted 
 at this portal of the entrance of the sacred room. Within 
 the centre room stood the altar, consisting of a base three 
 or four feet high and five or six feet square, with a broken 
 pillar two and a half feet in height, rounded at the top, 
 arid rising from the centre of the base. 
 
 There was a stillness reigning here which rendered the 
 scene imposing. The large but mutilated figures, and the 
 many lesser ones above and around, exhibiting in contrast 
 the huge proportions of the two principal statues which 
 had remained, in their speechless and grave attitude, longer 
 than tradition tells, contributed (with the occurring impres- 
 sion on the mind of the great labors that must have been 
 expended here, and the mystery and the solemn shade that 
 now rests on all that connects these cavernous rooms with 
 the past) to render yet more still and yet more sombre, 
 the silence and the shadows which now pervade these sa- 
 cred and forsaken haunts, as you stand and muse on the 
 generations and the superstitions of the past, and the Hin- 
 doo in his darkness and ignorance of the present. 
 
 " Come down here, Lingo," I cried to my guide, who 
 was sitting at the outer entrance above me, as I was about 
 to enter the centre room, containing the altar, after having 
 examined the devices and figures on the outer wall, " Come 
 down, Lingo, and enter this room with me." 
 
 " Me no come there, master." 
 
 " Come down at once, boy, and enter with me." 
 
 " Me TIO come, master," continued the yet submissive 
 Gentoo, with a touch of his hand to his forehead, and then, 
 impressively upon his breast. 
 
 " Why not, Lingo ?" 
 
 " Gentoo no go in there, master, sargeant tell you why," 
 added the dark-featured Hindoo, with his hand pointing 
 further on, with a persuasive look that I would go to the 
 principal cave. 
 
 I advanced to cross the threshold of the entrance, and 
 was surprised at the apparent cleanness and smooth surface 
 
 19 
 
218 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of the ground floor. Another step, and I was ankle-deep 
 in water ; and had not boots prevented, I should, beyond 
 a conjecture, have gone through the ablution of the feet 
 as my initiatory rite of entering into the mysteries of the 
 Hindoo temples, according to their many washings in their 
 superstitious observances. At each end of this range of 
 rooms, and at right angles with them, is a recess with three 
 pillars, forming two more rooms or courts, which, together 
 with the central chambers already described, constitute 
 half a hollow square. 
 
 An excavation, quite similar to that now described, I 
 found adjacent to it, though upon a yet larger scale ; and 
 the knights, in alto-relievo, at the entrance of the central 
 room, were yet huger in their proportions, and the sur- 
 rounding groups of figures more numerous and more dis- 
 tinct. And yet, the faces of all the figures have been 
 mutilated ; and in instances, so entirely, as hardly to leave 
 a trace of many features of the face remaining. This profa- 
 nation of these Hindoo temples is said to have been done 
 by the great guns of the Portuguese, in that age of zeal 
 for the extension of the Roman Catholic religion and for 
 the destruction of all idols of every other system. But 
 this big gun story, I take it, is something of a big gun it- 
 self, so far as the big guns are concerned. For, in the 
 first place, a very large gun could not conveniently be 
 transported up such a steep acclivity. In the next place, 
 it would be rather difficult, when the guns were in the 
 caves, so to elevate them and with accuracy so to point 
 them as to take off so invariably the noses of all these 
 rocky deities a point towards which the mischievous de- 
 spoiler seems to have particularly directed his shots. And 
 what is a further and pretty conclusive consideration on 
 this subject is, that a sledge-hammer, in the hand of an 
 athletic man. would have done more rapid execution and 
 with far greater convenience, in de-facing, de-nosing, de- 
 cheeking, and de-legging all these figures, as they are now 
 presented to the visiter, to awaken his regrets that greater 
 taste had not been displayed for the preservation of these 
 peculiar specimens of the arts of an ancient people, instead 
 of the indulgence of an unenlightened, misjudged and su- 
 perstitious zeal, in the demolition of these figures, which, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 219 
 
 unmolested by the destructive hand of man, had remained 
 as enduring as the mountain rock, in which, in relievo, they 
 have been chiselled. 
 
 Lingo's patience, seeming to be waning to its lowest 
 point, although he sat as submissive as a fawning spaniel 
 that longed to return home, I delayed no longer at these 
 lesser excavations, and wound still further around the moun- 
 tain to find the principal entrance to the most spacious and 
 interesting cavern. 
 
 I walked on but a few moments more in this winding 
 path, when a charming view opened to the eye, exhibiting 
 in its beauty the water scene on the opposite shore, lying 
 in front of the winding path of the island by which I had 
 approached these mountain temples. There, lay the lovely 
 expanse, with green islands yet beyond it, with the still 
 bosom of the mirroring water, sprinkled with numbers of 
 the graceful lateen boats, whose sails, in the distance, rising 
 in their spiral cut, give them the appearance of so many 
 butterflies, with their light and bright wings sailing over 
 the waters. And at the right, appeared the white mosque 
 of the Mohammedan worshipper, lying in picturesque and 
 beautiful relief against the green mountain-side of the op- 
 posite shore. 
 
 I had now reached a wide level which spread out from 
 the rising conical rock, to the steep of the hill-side. Here 
 was the sergeant's house and the corporal's shantee these 
 two personages being retained at this point to prevent the 
 caverns and their remaining curiosities from being further 
 mutilated. Commanding the view of this beautiful pros- 
 pect, lies this little green level, more than half way up the 
 mountain-side, from the inner edge of which the rock again 
 raises its heavy bulwarks in limestone masses.* And here, 
 in that massive rock of the mountain, coated with trees 
 and shrubs above it, you see the great entrance to the cav- 
 erns of the mountain, called the ELEPIIANTA CAVES, and 
 which tradition tells, and which the books of the Hindoos 
 yet preserved narrating the actions of their gods declare, 
 
 * I took this rock to be limestone, and still believe it to be so, 
 though a gentleman of science in Bombay assured me that it was 
 basalt. 
 
220 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to have been, as they still are, the temples of the Hindoos. 
 In the niches of the walls, and on the side ranges of the 
 rooms are chiselled the incarnations of the gods of the 
 Hindoostanee. 
 
 The front view of the rock presents a portal, with four 
 pillars and two side pilasters, supporting a horizontal entab- 
 lature slightly ornamented with mouldings. The pillars 
 are fluted and large, and considered as capitals of unfin- 
 ished pillars might be considered as approximating to some 
 beauty, but as they are, exhibit no idea of correct propor- 
 tions, according to our appreciation of the perfect models 
 of Grecian or Egyptian architecture. These pillars are 
 cut from the solid rock, and are ten or twelve feet high. 
 As the excavation extends into the mountain, four ranges 
 of similar pillars yet stand, as they were left, chiselled from 
 the solid rock, and receding in regular distances and regu- 
 lar intervals in straight lines back from the front pillars. 
 Two additional rows correspond with the pilasters on each 
 side of the portal. When you have entered the portal, the 
 excavated hall branches off wider yet to the right and 
 left, giving an internal room of spacious dimensions. In 
 the back wall fronting the entrance, and seen between the 
 central ranges of pillars extending from the portal, is a 
 niche excavated in the rock, its distance from the front 
 being some sixty or a hundred feet from the entrance. In 
 this niche is seen the principal figure, which attracts the 
 attention of the visiter, and remains there in its three-faced 
 form, looking east, west, and north, as the only perfect 
 statue which remains. This triad figure is in keeping, in 
 the proportions of the several faces ; and the execution, 
 though presenting little to win our admiration for the beau- 
 ty or manliness of the features, is deemed to reflect credit 
 on the artist. The heads may be four feet in diameter 
 the lips large the noses well chiselled the cheeks rotund 
 the neck decorated after the present style of the Hindoos, 
 in the wearing of their ornaments circling the neck in a 
 crescent and low on the chest. The heads are decorated 
 with a cap unlike any I have seen at Bombay, but resem- 
 bling others worn further east, rising high and receding 
 somewhat like the upper part of a helmet, and ornamented 
 with various devices. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 221 
 
 It cannot be interesting to the reader, to follow the mi. 
 nute description and measurements of these caverns. The 
 general appearance and the impressions they leave on the 
 mind of the visiter, are the principal things to interest the 
 reader, in the absence of visible inspection. 
 
 The excavation here, constituting the principal room, is 
 spacious, embracing thirty or forty pillars in their regular 
 ranges, which support the rocky ceiling, and are parts of 
 the rock left in excavating. On one side of this spacious 
 hall is a cubical room, higher than the square of its base ; 
 which is also an appendage of the solid rock, and excava- 
 ted, within itself, for the purpose of embracing the altar, 
 corresponding to those already alluded to. On the sides 
 of each corner of this cubical room, an immense figure, 
 making eight in all, is chiselled ten or fifteen feet in height, 
 exhibiting an imposing attitude. But all these figures are 
 defective in the proper development of the muscles. The 
 limbs are particularly so. The curve line seems to exist 
 only as encircling the limbs ; while the lines from the knee 
 to the foot are nearly straight, giving to the limbs the 
 tameness of a pipe-stem, or more properly a regular pyra- 
 midal form, unlike the varied developments of the different 
 muscles as seen exhibited in the natural figure of man him- 
 self. The same is true of the arms. They are invariably 
 cramped, or make acute angles as stiffly as the adjustment 
 of two straight sticks, intersecting each other, would do. 
 The head and the chest are the two parts of the figures 
 best executed, while the waist reminds one of the sole- 
 leather corsets of olden days, or one half of an hour-glass. 
 And this we would deem surprising, when it is considered, 
 that the human form is continually exposed in these east- 
 ern countries, thus giving the artist the opportunity of daily 
 studying the muscular action of the body and limbs, so 
 essential to be noted and to be understood by the sculptor 
 to enable him truly to delineate his figures according to 
 life, in the different positions of attitude and action in which 
 he places them. And yet, the effect of the main figures 
 of the principal groups is striking, and must have been 
 particularly so upon the minds of the common people. 
 The larger number of lesser figures around the principal, 
 exhibit the god in a conspicuous and imposing form, the 
 
 19* 
 
222 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 effect being derived principally, however, from the idea of 
 power, inferred from dimension in contrast. In the groups 
 of figures occupying different excavations in the walls, and 
 describing various actions of the gods of the Hindoos, 
 there are a great variety of heads crowded together, as 
 they are often seen on Chinese carving in ivory elephants 
 and lions, grotesque winged animals and serpents while 
 the principal one or more large figures are thus shown off 
 in bold relief ; and in all these representations, the strictest 
 modesty is preserved, though the figures are slightly 
 dressed, after the manner of most of the native Hindoos. 
 
 There is one figure cut in a recess on the inner wall, 
 which attracts the interest of the visiter, and is on the 
 right of the triad, or three-faced god, and by some called 
 the Amazon, though the peculiarity of the figure emblems 
 forth a very different legend of one of the Hindoo gods. 
 The figure is nearly perfect, more so than any other besides 
 the triad. Yet the same objection applies to this figure, 
 tall in its height, which I have stated of the others, though 
 some speak of it as a creditable specimen of sculpture ; 
 and probably it is the best, with the exception of the three 
 faced Vishna or Sciva, which decorates the rocky walls 
 of this spacious excavation. Indeed, there is in all the 
 figures, without an exception, the absence of all anatomical 
 correctness. Straight lines prevail, and the limbs are like 
 tapering poles, and the faces remind one of the rude cuts 
 seen on the old English grave-stones of the 17th century, 
 with cherub wings attached to their young and rounded 
 cheeks, though here, where wings are introduced, they are 
 the more tasteful, being of the sylph-like form. 
 
 From this principal room, a passage on the left as you 
 advance, extends to a yet more interior excavation, with 
 like groups of figures studding the excavated niches in the 
 inner walls. And here is an inner saloon, longer than 
 wide, with pillars in front, and the wall constituting the 
 back part of it is studded with a range of statues. These 
 extend quite the whole length of the wall of this apart- 
 ment, in alto-relievo, on the wall, exhibiting a variety of 
 male and female figures, men, women, mothers w r ith chil- 
 dren in their arms, in different attitudes, and all constitu- 
 ting a row of statues which must have been imposing 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 223 
 
 when in their perfect state. But now there is scarcely a 
 statue of the whole number undefaced. 
 
 On my entering a small cubical room containing the 
 altar, in this range of the excavated rooms, the soldier, a 
 native Hindoo, who was now accompanying me, signified, 
 with considerable emphasis, that it was not allowable for 
 me to enter the room of the altar. He had not marked 
 me entering the other, and now remonstrated at my at- 
 tempt to enter this " Gentoo might go in but no English 
 go no American go." " Nonsense, Sepoy," I said to 
 him, and mounted the altar, which I conclude, from its 
 being more polished than the others, still serves as the 
 altar where the Hindoos offer their gifts when they as- 
 semble here, as they still do on holidays, to worship 
 agreeably to their own rites. " Nonsense," I again added, 
 still further to try the sincerity of the sentry. " Make any 
 resistance and 1 take you, in good haste, to the hearing 
 of the Governor." 
 
 "Against order, master," added the doubtful soldier, 
 with his present hand to his forehead " no order to let 
 English enter. Hindoo only enter." 
 
 " Well, Sepoy, do you not know that I have become a 
 Gentoo since I reached Bombay go to Gentoo church 
 have a mark put on my forehead ? See, Sepoy, see you 
 it not ?" I added, touching my finger to my forehead be- 
 tween the eyes. 
 
 Lingo and the Sepoy both laughed roundly, and made 
 no more opposition to my entering the consecrated room 
 of the altar, but their incredulity was observable enough, 
 and their horror of my polluting their temple I took to be 
 more a matter of affectation than otherwise. 
 
 But what was the propelling motive which led the 
 enthusiast, or devotee, or prince, or potentate, or genius, 
 struggling in the infancy of the arts, to give development 
 and immortality to his swelling conceptions, in the execu- 
 tion of these mysterious, works, of which no record now 
 retains the traces of their origin, or the progress and the 
 completion of these stupendous works stupendous, at 
 least, when associated with the age in which they must 
 have been executed? And even now, they are gazed 
 upon as astonishing demonstration of the labors of the past. 
 
224 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Nothing that narrates of them is found nothing is known. 
 A shade, dark as the stillness was deep, which pervaded 
 the caverns at that moment as I mused on the revolutions 
 of empires, religions, and even the mountain-rock, now 
 rests over the story of their past ; while at the same time 
 here live, in visible characters, the rocky records which 
 chronicle, and which shall chronicle for ages to come, the 
 religions, the habits, and the manners of the Hindoo of 
 other times. How profound is ignorance ! How fleet 
 the years of man ! How unbecoming is pride in a mortal ! 
 How low may superstition bring him in the scale of intel- 
 lect ! How sublime and elevated his nature, when fixed 
 on divine things ! How vast his capacities, when direct- 
 ed by the beams of intellect and the elevating influences 
 of the true system of worship recorded for the otherwise 
 benighted spirit, in the gospel of Jesus Christ ! 
 
 I returned to the boat, and our two lateen sails soon 
 bore us on to the good frigate Columbia my home on the 
 deep- whose deck one is ever willing to reach, after a day 
 of toil on duty or on pleasure ; and whether his rambles 
 have been accompanied with happiness or disappointment. 
 To-day, the field of that ramble was curious, unique, and 
 deeply interesting. None will regret the effort which it 
 may cost to accomplish a visit to the Elephanta caves 
 and none, having examined it in connection with the reli- 
 gion of the Hindoo, will forget their temples in these moun- 
 tain rocks. 
 
 VISIT TO DR. WILSON AND FAMILY. 
 
 On the evening of the tenth I visited at the Rev. Dr. 
 Wilson's, agreeably to an invitation to dine with him, with 
 the expectation of meeting other religious persons whom 
 the Dr. had politely said he would invite to meet me. The 
 Rev. Mr. Nesbit, and Dr. Smitten, a benevolent gentleman 
 who has long been in India, were there ; and the two 
 Misses Baynes, the sisters-in-law of Dr. W. 
 
 Dr. Wilson is a gentleman of attainment in letters, and 
 his conversation is greatly interesting in connection with 
 the Hindoo religion their ceremonies, their habits, their 
 manners, and incidents in his own experience among the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 225 
 
 natives. His courteous attentions will be remembered 
 with very acceptable associations, in connection with 
 the pleasure received in my interview with himself and 
 family. 
 
 Dr. W. is at the head of the Literary Asiatic Society 
 of Bombay ; and, with his modesty of character, he exem- 
 plifies the truth of the Scripture, that he that humbleth 
 himself shall be exalted. He excels as a linguist, possess- 
 ing great natural readiness in the acquisition of a new 
 tongue, already understanding many of the languages of 
 the East, Arabic, Sanscrit, Hindoostanee, etc. etc., and has 
 written with effect in several of them against the systems 
 of the Mohammedans, Hindoos, and the Parsees. 
 
 In the evening we took a walk through one of the 
 streets, near Dr. VWs residence, in which almost every 
 house was a temple, or contained a Hindoo god. We 
 saw enough to interest, to pity, to grieve us, and to dis- 
 gust in the worshippers, who entered their temples and 
 prostrated themselves before their wooden deities, whose 
 forms were hideous for their shapes and paints. One of 
 these gods, in an apparently greatly frequented temple, 
 contained three heads, resembling the swine's more than 
 aught else, though called the monkey, with its three-formed 
 shape, painted red, with glaring white and black eyes. 
 Before this ill-formed block of wood numbers prostrated 
 themselves and worshipped asking their god for what- 
 ever might be the object of their particular desire, and ten- 
 dering to him offerings of rice, or cocoa-nuts, or money 
 at times beseeching his assistance, or at others threatening 
 the painted deity, that if the request be not granted his 
 godship would get no more cocoa-nuts. This seerns a pe- 
 culiar kind of worship, but the Hindoos both threaten and 
 entreat, in their approaches to their gods. 
 
 We wandered by some thirty or forty and more of these 
 idol-houses, to examine their many and various appear- 
 ances. The houses differed not much from the indifferent 
 residences of the lower classes in the bazaar part of the 
 town. Others presented more respectable piles of build- 
 ings ; and in a few instances the temples were embraced 
 within a court of considerable spaciousness. 
 
226 
 
 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 HINDOO DEVOTEE. 
 
 At length we came to the tent of a noted devotee, who 
 has made himself conspicuous as a sacred character for 
 his abstinence, mortification, and by the peculiarity of the 
 form of his penance. He holds in his left hand a small 
 flower-pot, containing a rose-shrub, with its branches pro- 
 tected by a light frame-work. The finger nails of the 
 hand, which embraces the flower-pot, wind in their un- 
 couth and spiral shape, six or eight inches in length. 
 They say he has held this flower-pot in the position 
 he now carries it for thirty years. The fleshy part of 
 his fingers, under his nail, has also oddly elongated itself. 
 Whether he has thus preserved this flower-pot this length 
 of time or not in this position, he evidently has well played 
 his part, as the result of this action, deemed self-mortifica- 
 tion and penance, has been to accumulate from the multi- 
 tude who visit him, some 20,000 rupees, equivalent to more 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 227 
 
 than nine thousand dollars, a part of which he is now de- 
 voting for the establishment of an institution, in which 
 shall be inculcated the sentiment and the habit of one's 
 personal consecration to some act of similar devotion. 
 This singular personage is now, from his appearance, be- 
 tween the age of fifty and sixty years, and is not deficient 
 in sprightliness and shrewdness. " I'll get no money to- 
 night," he said to Dr. W. " You are the enemy of all re- 
 ligions here, and persuade people from giving pice to the 
 devotees." 
 
 The old man was nearly naked, with his white beard 
 brushed up to the cheek, and smeared over with white- 
 wash, or something like it, which covered his whole face 
 and brow and most of his exposed body ; with a tint of 
 red-like blood on the brow and breast, contrasting with this 
 wash of white overlaying his darker skin. It is generally 
 supposed that this old devotee's arm, which supports the 
 flower-pot, has become emaciated. But it is not more so 
 than the other. The muscles of each were alike, and so 
 appeared, when the devotee, at my request, put his right 
 arm in the same attitude as the left which supported the 
 flower-pot. He seemed not unpleased by our call ; and 
 as we left, without marking that my friend Dr. W. saw 
 the action, I dropped a piece of silver into the old man's 
 hand, which the next moment I regretted, although I had 
 done it as I would have given pence to a conjuror for 
 amusing me with tricks of his art and enchantments of 
 his snakes ; or to the keeper of a menagerie of odd and 
 curious beasts of the country. Should Dr. W.'s course 
 be pursued by all who visit this long-nailed Gentoo, he 
 would soon be seen making an effort to earn his rice and 
 curry in some more industrious manner, and the leisure- 
 penance of the devotee would be changed for the reality 
 of self-denial, which the laborious poor man is often called 
 on to experience in the honorable effort to give support 
 and comfort, to his household. 
 
 Returning late to the ship, I found the sea rolling higher 
 than is usual, or than I had before seen it, in the harbor. 
 The oarsmen pulled to the boatman's cheerily tune ; and 
 ere long the sail was set, when our boat leaped from wave 
 to wave as she glided over the water, and dashed the 
 
228 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 spray before her in the dark night like a spit-fire, spread- 
 ing the phosphorescent light every way around her. 
 
 I have made my last visit on shore, and in the morning 
 our ship stands yet again on her eastern course. And 
 there are more than one to whom I may repeat with most 
 acceptable memories, as I leave the strange, the curious, 
 and the interesting city of Bombay : 
 
 " Farewell, but whenever you welcome the hour, 
 Which awakes the sweet night-song soft in your bower, 
 Then think of the friend who once welcomed it too, 
 And forgot his own griefs to be happy with you. 
 His griefs may return, not a hope may remain 
 Of the few that have lightened his pathway of pain, 
 But he ne'er will forget the short vision that threw 
 Its enchantment around him while lingering with you." 
 
 
 SECTION IX. 
 
 GO A. 
 
 Goa. Row up the river to the site of old Goa, now the city only of 
 churches and convents, and once the seat of the Inquisition in the East. 
 Returning, wind and tide ahead. Passage through the breakers. Unable 
 to reach the frigate. The ships stand out to sea. Sleep at the fort. 
 The next morning the ships stand in, and the author regains the frigate. 
 
 WE came to anchor in Goa Roads on the fourteenth 
 of November. The basin of water in which we are now 
 lying indents a very picturesque shore, broken into ranges 
 of table-land which stretches along the shore, and high 
 ranges, more elevated, rising in double tier of mountains, 
 in the blue distance of the interior. 
 
 This morning, succeeding the evening of our arrival, 
 I jumped into a shore-boat, with the understanding that 
 the ship would go to sea in the evening, and with the 
 purpose of getting a larger boat on my reaching the 
 shore, to take me to Goa, some six miles and more distant. 
 Should I happen to be left in these regions, why, the only 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 229 
 
 alternative will be, to go over land to Madras, to regain 
 the ship at Colombo, or to make the best of my way back 
 again to the United States of America. However, it 
 would be 
 
 " Pitiful, wondrous pitiful," 
 
 to come into these Roads, with all the olden associations 
 connected with this ancient capital of all the Portuguese 
 Indian possessions, and not to look at the far-famed city 
 of Goa, now in its ruins, and so memorable for its former 
 magnificence and ecclesiastical associations. 
 
 I had marked a picturesque building before I left the 
 ship, situated on one of the prominent elevations, near the 
 landing-place at the fort ; and receiving the courteous 
 salutation of the Captain of the fortress as I passed through 
 it, I sought this building on the heights by a path which 
 had been pointed out to me as leading to the residence 
 chapel of the Padre, while my boat was ordered round 
 to another point on the opposite side of the island to wait 
 for me. But when I had reached this pile of buildings on 
 the heights, I found it like most of the olden Portuguese 
 ancient edifices, more beautiful in the distance than on 
 near inspection. The Catholics are tasteful in the selec- 
 tion of the locations for their public edifices ; and the 
 chapel, the cathedral, the monastery, are mostly found to 
 occupy the most conspicuous points of high ground wher- 
 ever their religion prevails, and the effect of the tout en- 
 semble of their religious buildings, at a distance, is almost 
 invariably fine and imposing. 
 
 The view from this church of the mount was very fine, 
 and no little interest was given to the scene of the water 
 expanse which lay before the eye, by being varied with 
 our own two men-of-war, riding on the bosom of this 
 beautiful indentation of the sea. The Padres whom I 
 met here, had nothing about them which was attracting. 
 After a rapid view of the- chapel, the principal room within 
 which contained a saint with a small ship poised in his 
 hand, I bid the brotherhood adieu and descended to the 
 boat, which I found waiting for me as directed the pea- 
 santry at the foot of the hill showing me courtesy and 
 kindness as I passed their tents. 
 
 20 
 
230 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 We soon crossed over to Pangim, or New Goa, where 
 I again changed my boat for one still larger, with ten 
 oarsmen, that I might more certainly accomplish my ex- 
 cursion and return in time for the sailing of the ship. 
 Comfortably seated in the cabin of this boat, and gliding 
 to the dip of ten oars up the stream, I am now penning 
 this nota bene of the way to the old city, some four miles 
 further up the stream, which runs between the island of 
 St. Pedro and the opposite shore. Church edifices. Portu- 
 guese, French, and Mohammedan mosques, are frequently 
 occurring on either side, in agreeable relief of white plas- 
 tered Avails and the groves of cocoa-nut and banana-trees, 
 with their peculiar and characteristic tops. 
 
 THE RUINS OF GOA. 
 
 After a pull for a couple of hours, we reached the De- 
 serted City once the proud, the lofty, the superstitious, 
 and the overbearing city of Goa. It still stands a beacon 
 of what once was ; but it is like the hali deserted of its 
 feasters, when the revellers have gone ; while the still- 
 ness of the present contrasts, in sad eloquence, with the 
 hour of carousal. I walked through the streets overgrown 
 with grass, with reflections which I could have cherished 
 nowhere else. Scarcely a being was to be seen moving 
 throughout the city. The olden churches, the spacious 
 and massive cathedral, the private chapels, and the nunne- 
 ries, the crumbling walls, and the cocoa-nut groves, and 
 the banana-trees, were seen in their profound solitude, 
 where once was bustle, and where the mighty and the 
 proudest moved forth in state and affluence ; and where 
 the mighty Inquisition ruled in its terror and sublimity. 
 A cross on its base of rock, composed, itself, of imperish- 
 able material, was standing at the corner of almost every 
 street, telling the universality of the Roman Catholic religion. 
 The walls lining each side of the streets were generally 
 falling, exposing the areas that once composed the gar- 
 dens and the sites of private mansions and palaces, but 
 where now scarcely a private residence can be found or 
 bamboo hut can be seen ; while the rank and luxurious 
 vegetation mellows all this ruin and decay, of fallen walls, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 231 
 
 and terraced mounds, and filling avenue, and broken pas- 
 sage, in embowering green of vine, or shrub, or thatching 
 tree. Here is indeed a field for the imaginative to wander 
 in. Here are all the elements of romance, of poetry, for 
 the tragic and the lyric muse. Goa ! how art thou fallen ! 
 The huge walls of thy spacious churches, and cathedral, 
 and monastery yet stand, while the dust is gathered on 
 their altars, and the gold of their candlesticks is dimmed, 
 and the images that once moved in procession and parade 
 in holiday scenes, are veiled and crowded, in their tar- 
 nished gilding, into the dark recesses of the interior rooms. 
 Ye ghosts of departed saints, said yet to walk on your 
 rounds through the silent recesses of these almost deserted 
 temples, tell us, what is the blight which has come over 
 all, that now, only the stately pile of cathedral, and chapel, 
 and nunnery, in decay and dust, mark a solemn city of 
 churches, where once stood the ancient, the famed, and 
 the prosperous Goa of the East ? And why, all around 
 you in the same eastern seas, are another people, with a 
 different but Christian creed, springing up in successful 
 prosperity and irresistible prowess? Must the religion of 
 the Catholics for ever leave blighted, whatever it touches? 
 
 I walked through the cathedral, an immense pile of 
 buildings, which once must have been imposing. The 
 entrance door opened into a passage-way lined on one 
 side with paintings of a large and corresponding size, of 
 inferior merit as to their execution, while the scenes were 
 often such as to produce a great effect. One represented 
 Saint Augustine, suspended with his head downwards. 
 Another, the devil in interview with a priest; and 
 Saint Augustine seeing the visible Christ, while partaking 
 of the eucharist. This passage communicated with the 
 door, which opened into the spacious chapel, with its lofty 
 ceiling. I passed rapidly through the different rooms, 
 some containing various images of large sizes and of les- 
 ser dimensions the twelve apostles and various saints, 
 and the Saviour represented in different scenes ; one 
 with the thorns upon his brow, the image being larger 
 than life ; and others, in other scenes of corresponding 
 proportions. 
 
 From the cathedral I went to a nunnery. A cup of tea 
 
 I 
 
232 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 was handed to me by the Lady Abbess, from whom I 
 gained some little things, to be retained as mementoes of 
 my visit. I wandered, at random, into another nunnery, 
 and other churches, but, in haste to return, I made my 
 way back from the heights on which these buildings are 
 mostly situated, covering grounds, which with their adjacent 
 lots must have been beautiful and valuable, almost beyond 
 account, but now neglected, with the walls of the sur- 
 rounding areas fallen or falling, and overgrown, exhibiting 
 long ranges of neglected fields and gardens in ruins. 
 
 RETURN TO THE FRIGATE. 
 
 On reaching the boat, to my no small surprise and no 
 very inconsiderable alarm, I found that the wind and the 
 tide had both changed against us, while I had been wan- 
 dering through the solitary streets and stately piles of 
 churches and nunneries of Goa. The boats were now 
 streaming up the favoring current, with their canvass 
 spread to a fair and strong breeze, while I had been cal- 
 culating upon both to secure my return to the frigate by 
 four o'clock. No time now could be lost, it being already 
 near three o'clock. I passed into the boat, and directed the 
 ten oarsmen to put forth their strength. They did well. 
 Our boat dashed back to Pangim, or lower Goa, from 
 which our ships were lying some four or five miles 
 the sea setting in with increased power, and the opposing 
 wind strengthening every moment. We paused only for 
 the men to take a draught of water, when they again 
 started for the frigate. We had passed the inner fort of 
 the Portuguese, but every moment was convincing us 
 that it was almost impossible to accomplish our purpose 
 against the opposing wind and tide. But the two ships 
 still lingered in the offing, the John Adams apparently 
 just standing out, while the Columbia had shaken out her 
 topsails, and was lying lazily in the wind. The men were 
 encouraged to pull to their utmost, but the ground-roll of 
 the sea was pitching in, and we had now reached a posi- 
 tion where the breakers combed high and fearfully. The 
 men, however, were true to their oars. As the high wave 
 came on with its curved edge higher than our boat, fear- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 233 
 
 fully threatening to flood it, the oarsmen for a moment 
 would rest on their poles, and as the breaker struck the 
 boat they broke the profound silence of the preceding in- 
 stant by their own peculiar prayer, as they ejaculated in 
 their own tongue, "Jesu Christe !" when again they dipped 
 their oars with their greatest effort, to send the boat still 
 further ahead, only to meet another mountain-sheet with 
 its distinctly denned curl, inclining towards us. As the 
 second breaker struck us, it was waited in silence, but with 
 the blow of the wave, the ten oarsmen, at the slight indication 
 of the steersman, again sent forth, in their suppressed and 
 reverential tone, " O Jesu Christe !" I thought it would 
 be impossible to drive the boat through these foaming 
 breakers, which came down against us in succession with 
 their almost perpendicular fronts. But so long as I saw 
 the features of the steersman, while they were profoundly 
 solemn, quaked not, I encouraged the men with the ex- 
 citing words of " Cheerily O, cheerily all !" which they 
 caught with spirit, as I applied my own hands to the oar 
 guided by the nearest man. The boat at length was 
 forced through seven or eight of these tremendous and 
 fearfully dangerous rolls of the sea, which would instantly 
 have swamped us, had the prow of the boat not been 
 kept perpendicularly to the line of the waves, as they 
 came successively, at this point of the way, some fifty 
 rods and more apart from each other. We were now 
 beyond these breaking surges, our boat having taken in a 
 considerable quantity of water, sweeping from the bows 
 nearly to the stern and entirely drenching the men. But 
 the wind fell not and the tide seemed still stronger, while 
 we continued to pull out as we saw the Columbia still 
 lingering, with her anchors evidently weighed, and, as I 
 concluded, only waiting for myself. But I was doubtful 
 whether, in her far-out position, she yet saw me, although 
 my boat was a large one. Yet at this moment she run up 
 her gib, and seemed to ware as if she were standing in 
 for the boat. But with the strong breeze blowing directly 
 on this iron-bound shore, at this late hour, I knew that 
 she could not, with propriety, venture much further or 
 delay much longer. The sun was fast declining, as our 
 boat seemed only inch by inch to gain her distance out- 
 
 20* 
 
234 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ward ; when, ere long, the sun fell beneath the distant 
 rim of the ocean, with the Columbia directly in its wake, 
 which longer and more distinctly preserved the frigate in 
 our view. I had spread my handkerchief above the poop 
 of the boat with the hope that it might attract the atten- 
 tion of the quarter-master, who is always keeping a look- 
 out with his glass ; and at the time the ship seemed to 
 veer, I supposed that I was seen. Bat as the red bank 
 of a glorious sunset began to die away into the dun of the 
 palest twilight, the distant ship also began to fade, and at 
 length, as she lined herself on the horizon, I could plainly 
 see that she was standing out to sea, with evident pro- 
 priety of not lingering longer so near the shore for the 
 night. In a short time, in the increasing darkness, the 
 ship was entirely lost, and the boatmen, already exhaust- 
 ed, were directed to put about and stand in for the shore. 
 The only hope that now remained, was, that Commo- 
 dore Read, although he had expressed himself to me with 
 more than his usual earnestness about sailing during the 
 evening, would stand off during the night and put hack 
 again in the morning, and take me up, as I then would 
 be able to stand out with the land breeze and a smooth 
 sea. But should he proceed directly on his course to 
 Colombo, as the John Adams seemed to have done, my 
 situation might become very peculiar, at least for myself. 
 I had taken but twenty dollars in my purse for the day's 
 excursion. As I had gone hy myself, however, I took a 
 sword in my hand, as a walking stick, and possessed a 
 watch of some value. At the worst, I concluded I could 
 manage, with these, comfortably to reach Bombay, where 
 I had no apprehension but that I could get any amount 
 of funds I might desire, and letters of credit to meet my 
 wants, whether I should make my way back to the 
 United States through the Red Sea, the Isthmus of Suez, 
 the Mediterranean, France and England, completing a 
 desirable tour ; or, if opportunity should present from 
 Bombay, to take passage to Macao, and rejoin the ship 
 at Canton, where I should probably anticipate her arrival, 
 as she would call at several places, and be for some time 
 detained before reaching Macao. And should I not meet 
 her there, a Canton packet would take me comfortably 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 235 
 
 back to the United States. These were the dreamings 
 of a moment, while our boat was standing back to the 
 fortification where I had landed first, in the morning, and 
 the bearing of which I had been sufficiently considerate 
 to take by the stars, before it had become so dark that 
 the land could not be seen. 
 
 But in the unrest of the night, other thoughts presented 
 themselves, though they were too gentle in their alarms 
 to frighten entirely from me, after the fatigues of the day, 
 a welcome refreshment from sleep. But what, if circum- 
 stances should so conspire as to reduce me to the neces- 
 sity of begging ? No one person knew me on shore. And 
 then, the symptoms on board the John Adams had been 
 such, since she left Bombay, as to leave it doubtful whether 
 the cholera was not in our squadron. And in a climate 
 deemed unhealthy, and exerting myself in the excitement 
 of the moment, beyond my own strength and habits, it 
 might be my destiny to be prostrated suddenly among 
 strangers of a different faith and language, and where I 
 knew not twenty words of their tongue. But necessity 
 in the unexpected circumstances in which I had been 
 
 F laced, could not be resisted, and God Almighty, in whom 
 trusted, I did not doubt a moment, would direct and 
 provide. 
 
 The fortress, which is an extensive work, was already 
 shut, when I had reached near the landing-place opposite 
 one of the gates. The occupants of a boat, lying a little 
 way in the stream, assured us that the Captain of the fort- 
 ress was already in his bed ; and my boat's crew appeared 
 to regard it as equivalent to a capital crime to wake him, 
 and they now insisted that they would not land, but they 
 must take me up the stream some three or four miles to 
 Pangim. I told them that they should land me, unless 
 the breakers prevented, which were now roaring horribly 
 on the ear in the darkness of the moonless night ; and I 
 took my sword in my hand, without any further threats 
 than my manner indicated, which once before, when the 
 men had become exhausted nearly to a rebellion as we were 
 pulling for the ship, I had, with yet more positiveness assum- 
 ed, although I am sure I could not have injured the head of 
 one of the miserable cowards. They yielded, and said 
 
236 
 
 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 they would try ; and we pulled to the north side of the 
 stone pier, over which the inswelling surf now rolled, as 
 if it were another cataract of Niagara. We kept the 
 boat off from its side, or the waters, in the immense sheets 
 as they rolled over the pier, would instantly have filled 
 the boat, and dashed her away like a speck drifting on 
 the boundless billow. 
 
 FORT AGO ADA. 
 
 Watching my opportunity, I sprung upon the part of 
 the pier nearest the shore ; and approaching the gate of 
 the fortress-wall, the sentry hailed me. I told him I wish- 
 ed to speak with the Captain of the fort. The Captain, 
 with half a dozen other Portuguese, put his head out the 
 window of a stone building, which formed something like 
 a bastion of the embattlements of the fortress, and said 
 that he was the Captain. I told him my story. He apo- 
 logized for his soldier-like quarters, but soon the gate was 
 thrown open ; and as if he thought some secret design 
 was being made upon the fortress, or else for effect, I was 
 ushered through the portal, along a line of guards of some 
 twenty dark-faced and dark-dressed soldiers, who had 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 237 
 
 been gathered at this point of the fort at the opening of 
 the gate. The Portuguese officer showed me to a small 
 apartment, through a passage which led for some short 
 distance without the main wall, but where two sentinels 
 were stationed, and which constituted the quarters of the 
 Captain. I was glad to be there, notwithstanding some 
 big stories I had heard of Portuguese treachery, and many 
 more I had read of it ; and now I was a stranger, within 
 a Portuguese fortress, in most treacherous times. I was 
 sufficiently tired to find the spread cot of the Captain, not- 
 withstanding the immensity of his mustaches, a very ac- 
 ceptable tender, although I felt a reluctance to avail my- 
 self of it, as this Portuguese officer, with true soldier-like 
 generosity, threw a piece of matting into another corner 
 of the room, and said, " This, to-night, shall be my bed ;" 
 inviting me, at the same time, to slip off my coat and to 
 lounge, after my fatigue, upon his clean-spread and ten- 
 dered cot. A cup of tea was ere long served, with bread 
 and butter, curd, cheese, eggs, and cake, the last being taken, 
 with a nonchalance du corps, from the wall, were it had 
 been suspended by a nail in a wrapper around the plate 
 that contained it. " Eat, my good sir," said the Portuguese 
 with the huge mustaches ; " you no eat any thing ;" not- 
 withstanding I had already finished a couple of eggs, drank 
 one cup of tea, and a round glass full of most delightful 
 water. I was greatly refreshed, and threw myself upon 
 my cot to get some rest. I slept ; and I remember, in 
 my visions of the night, to have seen two gallant ships 
 standing in shore for me, which reassured me that how- 
 ever unsailor-like it might be for the ships to be there, or 
 that I should be here, the generous Commodore would not 
 leave me behind. But my dreams were unquieting. I 
 had a rencounter with two banditti and mastered them. 
 But these were plantoms of the brain ; perhaps the real 
 banditti I should not be able to master, if about me there 
 were those who might be- disposed to attack me. Besides, 
 there was something peculiar in the cup of tea which I, 
 almost from necessity on account of the politeness which 
 had prepared it for me, had drunk. I now remembered 
 that the officer had poured some drops, as it seemed to 
 me, from a junk-bottle into the small teapot, in which the 
 
238 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tea was drawn. What on earth, or in the name of poison, 
 could he pour from a junk-bottle into a teapot, without a 
 design to get rid of me ? But we had shown, only a few 
 hours before, a sufficient force, at least, to induce respect, 
 so long as there was a probability that the ships would 
 return. Therefore, I slept, and was refreshed and much 
 recovered from my fatigue the next morning, and my 
 nervous excitement was past. The broad daylight brought 
 with it the assurance to myself that my good health con- 
 tinued. But the daylight was abroad, and the sun was 
 up, and the look-out from the high point of the flag-staff 
 reported, to my great disappointment, "no ships to be seen 
 in the offing" I quietly yielded to my apparent fate, and 
 began to make some inquiries, to enable me to decide upon 
 my best course, when I learned that the Captain of a Por- 
 tuguese brig was in the fort, who was designing to get 
 under way in a few hours for Bombay ; but only a few 
 moments longer had passed, before a paper was handed 
 to the Captain, as a second report from the telegraph, con- 
 taining the words, " Two large three-masted vessels in the 
 offing, standing to the north." " They are the frigate and 
 the corvette," I exclaimed ; " I thought they would not 
 leave me." I went myself, at the suggestion of the Captain, 
 to the top of the hill, embraced within the extensive forti- 
 fication, and where the flag-staff is fixed, to see what I 
 could make the vessels out to be, while he ordered break- 
 fast to be prepared and to be in readiness for me on my 
 return. The flag-staff I should judge to be 400 feet above 
 the walls of the fortress. These walls stretch along the 
 shore, and are themselves a part of the works ; and a dis- 
 tinct fort, above all the rest, with covered passages lead- 
 ing to it, is almost if not quite impregnable to any force, 
 should the lower works be taken. You ascend to this 
 high point by inclined planes, so arranged that provisions 
 and ammunition may be conveyed to the elevated position, 
 while the artillery above commands the whole ranges of 
 the steep passages. The view from this point is at onco 
 beautiful and grand. The wide ocean extends as far as 
 the eye can reach, north, south, and west, with the adja- 
 cent county around, in its peculiar features of inland, island, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 239 
 
 and mountain, in their perpetual green and foliage of the 
 tropics. 
 
 I took the glass, and at once recognised the long side 
 of the good Columbia, standing in, and with grateful feel- 
 ings believed that I should yet reach her. The Adams 
 was further out, but standing on the same tack, north. I 
 had already provided a large boat with sails and ten oars- 
 men to take me out, at the first appearance of the ships in 
 the offing, should they again be seen. 
 
 Taking another cup of tea, (which, in the daylight, at 
 its making, I now more particularly observed to be taken 
 from a junk-bottle, in which it was preserved instead of 
 the more usual domestic tea-caddy with which I have 
 been familiar,) I entered my boat, and cheerily, with her 
 canvass spread and ten men at the poles, the boat made 
 good speed towards the Columbia, still some ten or twelve 
 miles in the distance. When she perceived us, she tacked 
 ship, and bore down for us as far as practicable with the 
 head wind ; and, ere long, I was again, with a very com- 
 fortable feeling of convenience, on the deck of the frigate. 
 Advancing to the officer of the deck, I reported myself, as 
 is usual, as having " returned." " Very well, sir," was the 
 courteous and officer-like reply. " Please report yourself 
 to the First Lieutenant," who was standing not far off. 
 " Very well, sir," was repeated, with as much gravity as 
 the countenance of this amiable gentleman could assume, 
 " please report to the Commodore." 
 
 I made the best of my way to the cabin. Our Commo- 
 dore was sitting over his private journal ; and whether it 
 contains a private record of my own name or not, I do 
 not know ; but I do know that Commodore Read has in- 
 variably treated me with gentlemanly kindness ; and that, 
 in a few moments more, the ship, with a crowd of canvass 
 set, was pressing on her bounding course to Colombo, the 
 capital of the island of Ceylon. 
 
240 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 SECTION X. 
 
 COLOMBO. 
 
 Colombo. Church in the evening, on shore. Differences between the 
 English and American prayer book. The Governor's dinner to the Com- 
 modore and his officers. " Grace." Sir John Wilson. The Governor's 
 house. Promenade with his Excellency. Governor Mackenzie's opinion 
 of the American Missionaries, and liberality towards them. Music. 
 Early fortifications in the East. Mess-dinners. Mrs. Steward Macken- 
 zie. Sail by moonlight, and dinner at Sir John Wilson's. Sir John's 
 mansion. Bouquet. Cooper's Switzerland. Willis's poetry. Lord 
 Cochrane at New Orleans. Hospitality of British officers. " West coast 
 disaster." Murder of Captain Wilkins of the barque Eclipse, by the Ma- 
 lays. Tiffin with Rev. Mr. Bailey. A drive. Shells. Ceylon the best 
 place for making a collection in conchology. Breakfast to Governor 
 Mackenzie on board the frigate. Leaving Colombo. 
 
 WE anchored in Colombo Roadstead on Sunday morn- 
 ing, November 25th, 1838, having made land the preced- 
 ing evening and standing off during the night. 
 
 After the services on board, during the day, I accom- 
 panied Lieutenants Magruder and Turner and Dr. Haz- 
 lett to the shore, to attend the services of the church in 
 the evening. It was dark before we landed ; but the Co- 
 lonial Secretary, who had called on the Commodore, po- 
 litely accompanied us to the church within the walls of 
 the fort, and obtained us seats. As we landed we passed 
 within the gate, along a street with its white colonnade 
 lining on either side the whole range of the low buildings, 
 and producing a fine effect in the bright moonbeams ; while 
 the mellowing shade of the hour concealed all that would 
 diminish our favorable impression, as we reached the 
 church, lighted up for the services of the evening. The 
 congregation had already mostly assembled, and the faces 
 and the dress of the female part of the congregation were 
 so like our own congregations at home, and the prayer 
 book containing our own prayers, and the English service 
 in our own tongue, and the like ceremonies of rising, 
 sitting, and kneeling, all made it seem like being in one of 
 our own temples in our own western home, among our 
 own acquaintances, on the still eve of the Sabbath day. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 241 
 
 Most of the gentlemen attending the services of the 
 evening, were the officers of the barracks, in their red 
 uniform, accompanying the ladies present, who were gen- 
 erally of the officers' families. 
 
 ENGLISH AND AMERICAN EPISCOPAL SERVICE. 
 
 The American is struck with the slight variations in the 
 services of the English from the American Episcopal 
 church. And where this variation occurs, I think it must 
 be conceded, that the alterations, in our American service, 
 are decidedly an improvement. The English clergy so 
 
 consider it ; at least the Rev. Mr. B thus expressed 
 
 himself to me, when the two services were a subject of re- 
 mark. There is also a difference between us in pronoun- 
 cing several words of the service. In the opening exhor- 
 tation of the clergyman to the congregation, the attention 
 of the American is particularly arrested by the pronuncia- 
 tion of the word acknowledge, which the English clergy- 
 man pronounces as if written ac-no-ledge: " The Scripture 
 moveth us in sundry places to ac-no-ledge and confess our 
 manifold sins and wickedness ;" " And although we ought 
 at all times to ac-no-ledge our sins before God," &c. And 
 in the Te Deum laudamus, " We praise thee O God, we 
 ac-no-ledge thee to be the Lord." And yet, Sheridan, 
 and Perry, and Jones, and Jameson pronounce this word 
 as if written ac-nol-ledge, as also do Walker, Fuller, and 
 Knight, while they are the only three who give their au- 
 thority also for ac-no-ledge. 
 
 As we returned to the ship, the sea was running high. 
 The anchorage ground is an open roadstead ; and some- 
 times the swell is threatening to a small boat. And yet 
 there is a species of canoe here, constructed with an out- 
 rig. It consists of light pieces of wood, narrow, and nearly 
 as long as the canoe, and is parallel with it. It has two 
 arched bars, extending from the canoe to this stick, thus 
 enlarging the base of the little boat by several feet. This 
 fragile thing, with this construction, rides on the heaviest 
 billow, like a wafer or a cork. 
 
 21 
 
242 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 DINNER WITH THE GOVERNOR. 
 
 The Commodore and some of his officers dined with 
 his Excellency the Governor, last evening, November 27th. 
 It was a beautiful night. We reached the Governor's 
 house, a spacious mansion, at half-past seven o'clock. 
 Commodore Read and his officers were severally present- 
 ed to Mrs. Mackenzie, the Governor's lady, who entered 
 the room with her hat on, as her head-dress, which we 
 humbly conceive to have been in great bad taste, while 
 her ladyship was prodigal with her smiles, and with great 
 frankness and goodness of heart, placed her guests at 
 their ease. The Governor's self, in lace and silver epau- 
 letts, soon presented himself, that others might be presented 
 to him. He entered the reception-room after a number of 
 the guests had arrived, with ease, but less with the air of a 
 polished courtier than the plainer gentleman of education 
 and great good sense, who had seen the world and knew 
 its different phases and its fashions, and relied on his per- 
 sonal merit and conscious mental acquisition for consider- 
 ation, in connection with his station, rather than on man- 
 nerism, or on a polished address that excludes mannerism, 
 in the faultless but marked attitudes of graceful and ele- 
 gant demeanor. 
 
 An hour passed after the arrival of the Governor's 
 company few ladies and more gentlemen when there 
 was a movement from the antechamber to the hall, where 
 the guests placed themselves on a range of seats around 
 a tasteful and well-spread table. 
 
 It contributed much to my gratification to be seated on 
 the right of Sir John Wilson, the Commander of all her 
 majesty's forces in the island ; a gentleman of great amia- 
 bleness, worth, and popularity, and distinguished for his 
 services in the peninsular war. 
 
 His Excellency called upon myself to " say grace," as 
 the guests were about to take their seats, and again to re- 
 turn thanks before the ladies left the table. I note this 
 here, as illustrating the custom of those in high stations, 
 in the East, of whose hospitality we have participated, 
 and to commend what we deem laudable at their tables. 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 243 
 
 At Bombay, at the Governor's table, the same was true. 
 A blessing was asked and thanks returned. And there 
 was no blush for the name of Christian, nor felt appre- 
 hension that this act of devout acknowledgment to the 
 Giver of all our mercies, might be unwelcome to the 
 pleasure of any at the extensive table. 
 
 The gentlemen sat longer after the ladies had retired 
 than was the case at Bombay, but it was not in the turbu- 
 lence of noise and excess of wine, but to indulge in the 
 vivacity of free and social conversation. We had already 
 learned of the frank hospitality of the residents at Colom- 
 bo ; and our anchors had hardly dropped before we were 
 partaking of it in a manner that assured us of its gener- 
 ousness and entire cordiality. 
 
 Before I had risen, myself, from the table, earlier than 
 others, Sir John Wilson had politely urged that I would 
 dine with him, at his lovely villa, on the beautiful little 
 lake in the neighborhood of the city. Leaving the day 
 to be named by myself, and proposing to invite some 
 friends whom he supposed it would give me pleasure to 
 meet, I was happy to accept his politeness, even to the 
 necessary omission of courtesies proffered in notes of 
 invitation to the ward-room mess generally, and some 
 others individually, which had been received for every 
 night of the week. The number of English officers at 
 this station is numerous, and the officers of the different 
 brigades have their different mess-houses. Each of these 
 messes sent invitations to the officers of the Columbia. 
 And though I did not make it convenient, myself, to be at 
 either of their dinners, the officers who were, found the 
 entertainments to be most creditable to the messes, for 
 the taste and elegance displayed ; and in every instance 
 they were particularly complimentary, in the sentiments 
 which were expressed, towards the American nation, and 
 personally to Commodore Read and his officers. 
 
 As I vacated my seat at the table, I strolled into the 
 verandah, extending, with its colonnade of pillars, quite 
 the length of the main building with its extensive wings, 
 and adjacent to the garden grounds, which surround the 
 
 house ; but ere long I passed to the upper chambers, de- 
 lightfully disposed for receiving e 
 
244 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 sweeps with the sea-gale, through the windows, quite 
 down to the floor of the verandah. And the sea ! the deep 
 rolling sea, the surf-sounding sea, the beautiful, the sub- 
 lime, the eternal sea, with its now calm and now turbulent 
 and now throwing bosom, spreads its vast expanse before 
 the commanding residence of the Governor. The build- 
 ing consists of a centre and two long and low wings, 
 surrounded by the verandah already alluded to, with its 
 massive pillars in front and rear, with also an upper ve- 
 randah to the centre building, which opens at each of its 
 ends, directly upon the flat roofs of the long wings of the 
 mansion. 
 
 As I ascended the inner flight of stairs to the upper 
 verandah, the Governor approached me ; and as we leaned 
 over the balustrade, contemplating the scene in front of 
 us, his Excellency soon discovered the elements of poetry 
 to be in his make ; and for a while, we promenaded this 
 sweet balcony, overlooking the grounds between the near 
 sea-shore and the garden, with the white pagoda-like 
 lighthouse in the perspective. And the moon, the bright 
 moon, on one of her loveliest passages through the clear 
 and deep blue sky, was moving to-night, in her meekness 
 and softest sheen of glory, with only here and there a 
 collection of fleecy clouds, which, drinking in her prodigal 
 beams, added new beauty to the scene, as they cast their 
 mimic shadows on the illumined bosom of the far-out 
 deep. 
 
 " That scene reminds me," said his Excellency, " of a 
 print which I have seen, representing night in its compo- 
 sition, and another of morning. The night-scene was 
 composed of the particulars as they now lie before us." 
 
 " It is beautiful," I replied. " I have seen night repre- 
 sented by a black horse with a dark cloud curling upon 
 his neck ; and morn, by a courser striking his small hoof 
 upon the fleecy folds of a golden-edged cumulus, as his 
 nostrils snuffed its vapor as the early dew. But this is 
 indeed a charming view the queen of night, as she is 
 now seen reclining on those clouds, as Cowley describes 
 her, like a Sultana pillowed on couches of silver. And 
 then, that mighty ocean, and that dashing, cascading, 
 eternal surf which beats upon those rocks, throwing up 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 245 
 
 their jets in crystal sheets of foam, to drink in the moon- 
 beam, in contrast with the deep shades of those young 
 forest trees certainly there is composition here, to de- 
 light ; and how the soul loves the hallowed impressions 
 received from the pure sounds and pure visions of nature, 
 when addressed to the mind which sometimes lives in 
 itself." 
 
 " You see those shrubs," said the Governor, as he led 
 the way from the verandah to the promenade on the top 
 of the wing of the building nearest the sea, and the ideal 
 visions of improvement in his garden-plots warming his 
 imagination, as the capacities of his grounds were alluded 
 to ; " scarcely one of them was here seven months ago ; 
 so luxuriant is the vegetation in this climate, that they 
 have been brought forward in their cultivation, in so short 
 a period." 
 
 The Governor devotes his mornings to the improvement 
 of his grounds, and pointed out to me the different plans, 
 as they lay in his own imaginative mind. He has but 
 lately, comparatively, come to the island, as Governor of 
 Ceylon, but evinces an enthusiasm for its improvement, 
 and the development of its resources, and the promotion 
 of its interests as a statesman, a Christian philanthropist, 
 and a man of literary taste and acquisition. He has al- 
 ready found materials of interest in the old Dutch records; 
 and is having translated a manuscript document composed 
 by one of the old Governors, on the eve of his leaving 
 the island for the benefit of his successors, showing what 
 he had done, and proposing measures which would facili- 
 tate and extend further improvement. "Just such a 
 thing," said his Excellency, " as I should like to leave to 
 my successor." The paper is a curious document, and 
 will form a treat to the antiquary and the politician. 
 
 His Excellency talked of the interior gave a graphic 
 description of the reception of one of the chief men of 
 Candy, who lately visited Colombo, whom he presented 
 with a medal, and who, of his own accord, has lately 
 manumitted all his slaves. This man, though of little im- 
 portance in a political point of view, in the present firm 
 establishment of the power of the English in the island, 
 yet retained all the airs of one who still deemed himself a 
 
 21* 
 
246 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 prince among his own people. And of the scenery of the 
 interior, on the route to Candy, the olden residence of the 
 ancient powerful chiefs of the island and the capital of 
 the empire, the Governor gave a description, which, doubt- 
 less, was colored by an imagination and a sympathy which 
 he legitimately inherits, as the birthright of one who has 
 been born in Scotland, and has roamed in his young days 
 among its mountain ranges and highland hills. 
 
 I was glad, also, to hear from his Excellency, an une- 
 quivocal commendation of our missionaries, who are sit- 
 uated in different parts of the island. During the late 
 embarrassed state of the finances of the people in America, 
 which affected the resources of the missionary stations, 
 the government here contributed 200 or nearly $900 
 for the benefit of the American missions. And his Ex- 
 cellency, in making up his private budget this season, 
 was so thoroughly impressed with the commendable zeal 
 which actuated the American missionaries, and the happy 
 results consequent on their labors, that he did not wait to 
 hear of any embarrassment of theirs, or allow an applica- 
 tion to be made in their behalf, but anticipated any thing 
 of this kind by asking if the allowance of the preceding 
 year would be acceptable to them. It was added to his 
 list of expenditures. 
 
 " And believe me," was the sentiment of his Excellency, 
 " we think the Government to be under a greater obliga- 
 tion than this, for the efforts which the American mission- 
 aries are putting forth for the education and the religious 
 welfare of the inhabitants of the island." 
 
 We had been promenading for more than an hour on 
 the top of this wide and extended west wing of the Gov- 
 ernor's house, with a bright heaven above us, and a rich 
 landscape and glorious moon-lit sea-scene around us, un- 
 covered, and with the moonbeam glancing back from the 
 rich lace of the Governor, as we turned or paused in our 
 walk, to express an agreeing sentiment on the topics al- 
 ready alluded to ; or which the works of Scott, and Bul- 
 wer, or Cooper and Irving, (the last, all Englishmen 
 bless,) or the general theme of England and America 
 awakened. And now, a strain of music, borne from the 
 inner rooms along the verandah, met our ears, in the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 247 
 
 open air, as the vibrating zephyr came dancing and de- 
 lighted by us. It had attraction for both of us, and we 
 sought the company, who were listening, with a marked 
 compliment, to the fine execution of one of our officers 
 on the Spanish guitar. 
 
 "Americans," said an English officer in red, who was 
 near me, " excel in music. I have had the pleasure of 
 spending some time among them, and longest in New York. 
 I speak from observation and feeling." 
 
 "At least," I rejoined, " I know some New Yorkers who 
 have a love for music almost to a passion, whatever may 
 be their execution ; still, the inhabitants of the Eastern 
 States have the highest reputation for excellence in the 
 art, which, you know, it is said, and I should question the 
 sensibility of the man who doubts it, once had the power 
 to move stones into regular built palisadoes. And your 
 
 particular friend, Miss B , I should think had inherited 
 
 the lyre of Apollo, as his favorite muse. At least she has 
 the song of soul which is the soul of song, if I have read 
 rightly the spirited play of her features." 
 
 The Colombo people were ever ready to say kind and 
 complimentary things of America, and I had no reason 
 once to question the sincerity of their expressed sentiments 
 towards our nation ; but without an intended compliment, 
 merely, to the young lady, to whom the gentleman I then 
 addressed, as rumor that evening said, was soon to be joined 
 in matrimonial nuptails, I thought her face strikingly pretty, 
 as the simple fillet of braid confined her luxurious ringlets 
 from off her beautiful and pure brow. 
 
 The ladies gave us music, with the piano-forte as their 
 accompaniment ; and the evening was spent in social and 
 agreeable interview. 
 
 Sir John, lounging at his ease on a rich ottoman, had 
 passed to me the word, " dinna forget," just previous to our 
 leaving ; and the Commodore and his officers, at a sea- 
 sonable hour, returned to the ship. 
 
 On Wednesday evening, a large number of officers went 
 on shore some to the " mess dinners," some to meet other 
 
248 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 invitations, and most of them, finally to gather at the ball 
 of Mrs. Stewart Mackenzie,* the Governor's lady, later in 
 the evening. Dr. Hazlett and myself found Sir John Wil- 
 son's carriage waiting for us, as the last boat from the ship, 
 over a high sea, reached the shore. We entered it, and 
 accompanied by Sir John's aid, Major S., on horseback, 
 who was politely waiting for us at the dock, we were soon 
 rolled without the gate of the fort. 
 
 These early fortifications of the East generally embrace 
 a large space of ground, and at first must have contained 
 all the European residents ; and now, the wall of the fort 
 at Bombay extends for six or nine miles in circumference, 
 embracing a large portion of the city ; and the wall of the 
 fortification at Colombo, though not as extensive, embra- 
 ces the long lines of spacious buildings constituting the 
 barracks, and nearly all the houses of the European resi- 
 dents. 
 
 Having passed the gate, we rolled almost insensibly over 
 the first part of the smooth road that runs along the exqui- 
 site beach, where the surf is ceaselessly throwing up its crys- 
 tal cascades, with the dashing murmur of waters, so grateful 
 in a warm climate ; but we soon wound along the diverg- 
 ing way around the fort, and to our delightful surprise, 
 were brought suddenly to the lip of a beautiful lake, where 
 a boat was waiting for us. 
 
 " We will give you a sail by moonlight," said the Major, 
 as he rode up to the carriage door and dismounted. 
 
 * Mrs. Stewart Mackenzie is the daughter of Lord Seaforth, whose 
 family name is Mackenzie. She was the only child, and married 
 Sir Samuel Hood, afterwards an Admiral in the British Navy. She 
 inherited the estates of her father on his death, but her husband 
 dying without issue, she lost the title. She afterwards married Gen- 
 eral Alexander Stewart, her present husband, who at his marriage 
 took the family name of Mackenzie. 
 
 It is said that his Excellency has been offered knighthood, but has 
 declined it, in view of obtaining something yet more acceptable, 
 which, it is thought probable, will await him on his return, when he 
 ehall have conducted with satisfaction to her Majesty his Guberna- 
 torial term. Lord Seaforth, the family title of the Mackenzies, is 
 what we presume would meet his Excellency's desires, and the 
 family's expectation. And the peerage would receive an acquisi- 
 tion in the person of his Excellency, that would add honor to its 
 number. 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 249 
 
 We skipped from the carriage to the boat, while the 
 horses were ordered around, by the road, to Sir John's. 
 
 "And be assured we will not forget the moon-lit scene, 
 as we glided over the sweet lake in ' bonnie bark/ to Sir 
 John's," was the reply. 
 
 " Beautiful, indeed," exclaimed the doctor, who is as sus- 
 ceptible of the poetry and romance of nature, as good taste 
 united with goodness of heart, always begets. Dr. L.,of 
 the John Adams, a gentleman of great excellence of char- 
 acter, and little Read, a sweet boy and bright youngster, 
 were also with us. 
 
 Our guide had evidently studied effect in giving us this 
 variety, on this enchanting evening. 
 
 The gentle breeze, puffing from the land, soon filled our 
 sails, and the ripple curled around the prow of our boat ; in 
 a moment more, we were cutting the moon-lit bosom of the 
 lake, most gently and pleasantly, as the mimic wave sent 
 its music along the sides of our boat. 
 
 "Surely, night has a lovely face in your clime, Major L., 
 and I see she has her tasteful admirers. There is witchery 
 in the blending of light and shade of the tall trees of that 
 cocoa-nut grove, and the shady indentations of that border 
 line of the lake." 
 
 We were now gliding some distance outside of a little 
 island stretching itself in the lake, and in fifteen minutes 
 more, our polite guide, by a gentle veering of the boat, 
 brought us in full view of the mansion of Sir John. 
 
 There it stood, as he pointed it out to us, brilliantly illu- 
 minated, with the bright lamps gleaming among the colon- 
 nade pillars of the extensive verandahs, which overlook the 
 beautiful sheet of water, and reach quite to the margin of 
 the lovely expanse. We continued to near the beautiful 
 mansion, as the guests already assembled were seen moving 
 in promenade among the pillars of the spacious portico, 
 extending along the whole front of the gorgeous edifice. 
 Our boat came quite up to the steps of the verandah, and 
 we were welcomed by Sir John, and others whom I had 
 seen at the Governor's dinner, on the evening but one pre- 
 ceding. 
 
 We were soon seated at the dinner table of our amiable 
 host, ourselves being the last arrived. 
 
250 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Sir John displayed his taste in the decorations and the 
 substantial of his table. But being myself no epicure in 
 meats, or connoisseur in wines, which, on this occasion, were 
 varied and abundant, I take but little notice of the dishes 
 which are passing during the different courses at a dinner 
 table ; and am much more attracted by a beautiful vase of 
 flowers which may be displaying its lovely and gorgeous 
 collection of colored bell and virgin cup, and varied hues 
 of corollas and chalices, and pistils, and stamens, and giv- 
 ing forth to all, their beauties and fragrance. And there- 
 fore, I ought not to forget the beautiful vases of flowers 
 which decorated Sir John's dinner table. 
 
 " Did you mark it, Mr. T. ?" he asked, as a splendid vase 
 was removed from the table. 
 
 " Did I mark the bouquet, Sir John ? I was thinking that 
 it even surpassed the Governor's for its richness and varie- 
 ties. And I shall remember it too, and the mango, and the 
 place where you showed me how to cut it." 
 
 "And you will remember that the bouquet was collected 
 in the month of November, and the twenty-eighth day of 
 that month, hard on to the approaching Christmas." 
 
 The residence of Sir John was once a government or 
 private botanical garden ; and he has, as he said, always 
 been famous for his boquets. Only in the sweet and flow- 
 ering isle of Madeira, should I have looked for so rich a 
 chalice of these beautiful smiles of nature. 
 
 The manners of Sir John are as gentle as his flowers ; 
 and I am sure no one will forget their kindness who has 
 been the recipient of his amiable and elegant courtesies. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. B. sat on my left, who had lately been 
 reading Cooper's Switzerland, and a collection of American 
 poetry all which he was polite enough to admire. I led 
 him to expect that I would send him some further specimens 
 of American poetry, when I returned to the ship, with a 
 copy of the Prayer Book as used in the American Episco- 
 pal churches, which he regarded as a very considerable 
 improvement upon their own. He had not read Mr. Wil- 
 lis's poetry, and I was desirous of furnishing him with some 
 pieces from the elegant pen of this American bard. I 
 cannot conceive how it could otherwise than please the 
 taste which can appreciate the delicate tints in coloring 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 251 
 
 and the exquisite beauty of the poetic comparisons with 
 which Mr. Willis's poetry abounds in its imagery. It is said 
 that Mr. Willis seldom reaches the sublime. Is it not 
 enough always to be beautiful, and a master in it? But this 
 gentleman has outlived the envy and the jealousy which I 
 am sure some of his young contemporaries cherished, and 
 used to his disadvantage as they started together in the 
 race of writers in polite literature. If Mr. Willis shall 
 continue to dip his pencil only in the beautifully pure and 
 virtuous, which characterizes his own pieces particularly, 
 and almost all American poetry, to the shame of many of 
 the writers of Europe, who have corrupted rather than 
 benefited their species, he will continue to hold the consid- 
 eration in the esteem of his countrymen, which is now 
 awarded to his productions, and do the greatest justice to 
 himself. 
 
 There was an English officer of rank at the table, who 
 spoke of his having been taken prisoner on the northern 
 boundary in the last war. He recurred with pleasure to 
 the gentlemanly conduct of Governor Cass, who was then 
 an officer under General Harrison. There can be no doubt 
 that the English nation duly appreciate the prowess of the 
 young America. And the two rencounters which the two 
 nations have had with each other, have contributed to 
 induce great respect, on the part of both, for each other. 
 The battle of New Orleans was alluded to at the mess- 
 dinners by the British officers, as an intentional compliment 
 to our arms. And however much General Jackson's ad- 
 ministration, at home, may have excited the opposition of 
 the respectable minority of the people, it is no less true 
 that the eclat of his military fame has added reputation, 
 with himself at the head of it, to the American govern- 
 ment, abroad. 
 
 It is a circumstance which develops another secret mo- 
 tive which induced an attack on New Orleans, that the eye 
 of Lord Cochrane was on the cotton bags and hogsheads 
 of tobacco, which at this time were supposed to be, and were 
 in reality, deposited there. Lord Cochrane thought of the 
 prize-money, or the price of plunder. And we have the 
 word of one who must have known, as he was then high 
 in rank as an English officer, that " the attack on New Or- 
 
252 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 leans would never have been made, had it not been to 
 gratify Lord C.'s desire for enriching himself. For this 
 the blood was shed, and it mattered not how many lives 
 of English soldiers should be sacrificed for it." 
 
 If such a motive could actuate, almost exclusively, a 
 commanding officer, we should think that, whatever may 
 be the fact as to what has been denounced as calumny by 
 the surviving officers who were at the battle of New Or- 
 leans, it yet might be true of such a commander-in-chief, 
 that he promised to his army the privileges of plunder and 
 rapine, as rewards of victory. 
 
 But those things are past ; and English and American 
 hearts can now, and do now, respond to each other when 
 they meet, as descendants of a common parentage, and as 
 mutual admirers and friends of each other. And at Colom- 
 bo, where the largest number of its European inhabitants 
 are British officers, our Commodore and his officers have 
 received an unbounded, and generous, and frank hospitality 
 and courtesy, which, while it evinces the noble heart of the 
 Briton, declares also the partiality of the two nations for 
 each other. May it long continue in their mutual prosperity, 
 as is their interest ; and in unitedly carrying forward the 
 noble enterprises of the age, the improvements in science 
 and the cultivation of letters, and in the efforts of philan- 
 thropy and Christian benevolence, for bringing a world 
 to the participation of the blessings proffered in the gospel 
 of Jesus Christ. Such, surely, is the becoming and wise 
 course to be pur-sued by two nations deriving their being 
 from a common ancestry, of the same language, domestic 
 associations, sympathies, and religion. 
 
 When we rose from the table, near ten o'clock, the car- 
 riages were at the door, to take most of the party to the 
 Governor's, as it had been understood that the officers at 
 the different dinners would attend Mrs. Stewart Macken- 
 zie's ball for the evening. I had engaged to ride back as far 
 as the Governor's in Sir John's carriage, on the evening 
 of accepting the invitation to dine with him, without giv- 
 ing it to be understood that I should stop at the ball during 
 the evening. 
 
 We drove back from Sir John's enchanting residence, 
 through his beautiful grounds, along the road of the ever 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 253 
 
 surf-sounding beach, with the sea on our left, which is the 
 avenue for the fashionable drives at the hour a little before 
 sunset. And a most delightful drive it is. Having re-en- 
 tered the gate, and approached the Governor's, the music 
 soon reached the ear on the balmy air of the evening, as 
 it came from the well-lighted halls of the Governor's man- 
 sion. 
 
 Here I said adieu to numbers of the company, who were 
 gathering for the dance; and having lingered one moment 
 at the carriage door, as the fine strains of music from the 
 full band came to the ear, I walked with Dr. H. to our 
 boat ; and ere long we reached the ship, after an agree- 
 able entertainment at the courteous and amiable Sir John's. 
 
 I had now visited the shore at Colombo four times, but 
 in the evening of each day, since our arrival. And there- 
 fore my views of the city, thus far, had been entirely by 
 moonlight ; and of the elite among its inhabitants, in the 
 gleam of the mellow light of the chandelier and lamp, and 
 lesser tapers. But I had hoped for a number of days in the 
 coming week, both for the purpose of making a very desi- 
 rable excursion into the interior, to Candy, which place the 
 Commodore had almost made up his mind to visit, and also 
 for examining some objects of curiosity in Colombo ; and 
 more particularly to re-visit the places where I had already 
 called. I was quite desirous of again seeing the beautiful 
 grounds of Sir John Wilson, who had obligingly pressed 
 me to do so. But all these purposes were destined to be 
 frustrated, by our more speedy departure from the Roads 
 of Colombo than was the Commodore's first design. 
 
 DISASTER ON THE COAST OF SUMATRA. 
 
 The following document appeared in the Colombo Ob- 
 server, purporting to be extracted from a Penang paper, of 
 Prince of Wales' Island. It determined Commodore Read, 
 without delay, again to put to sea, for the purpose of gain- 
 ing all the information possible in connection with the al- 
 leged outrage, and if the particulars affirmed should be 
 substantiated, and render action on the part of the squad- 
 ron, in connection with the case, justifiable and obligatory, 
 to pursue the course which circumstances should require. 
 
 22 
 
254 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The Observer thus prefaces the document which he 
 quotes : 
 
 " From a number of the Penang Gazette, of the 13th of 
 October, we extract a description of the murder of the cap- 
 tain and some of the crew of the American ship Eclipse, 
 by the natives of the west coast of Sumatra, published at 
 the request of the Consular Agent of the United States, 
 at Penang. Perhaps COMMODORE READ may be induced 
 to bend his course, with the Columbia and the John Ad- 
 ams, now in our Roads, to Sumatra, to avenge the death 
 of his countrvmen." 
 
 MALAYS TAKING THE ECLIPSE. 
 
 " To the Printer and Publisher of the Penang Gazette : 
 
 SIR I will thank you to insert the accompanying let- 
 ter, addressed to me, in your next paper. 
 
 Yours, obediently, 
 
 J. REVELY, 
 Consular Agent of the United States of America, 
 
 at Prince of Wales' Island. 
 Penang, October 12, 1838." 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 255 
 
 "WEST COAST DISASTER. 
 
 " SIR Agreeably to your request, with the greatest 
 pleasure, I send you an official narrative of the murder of 
 Captain Wilkins, of the American ship Eclipse. 
 
 " From the 24th June, the day of my arrival at Tulloy 
 Pow and Muckie, and also the day I spoke with the 
 Eclipse, to the 26th August, I know very little about her 
 operations ; however, I was informed that Capt. W. was 
 many days trading at a village called Trabangan, a dis- 
 tance of about twelve miles from Muckie. On the night 
 of the 26th August, at about two o'clock, a man from a 
 jolly-boat hailed the ship in French, and begged for hospi- 
 tality, saying they were from the barque Eclipse, that the 
 captain was murdered by the Malays ; and the second 
 mate, who was then in the boat, severely wounded in the 
 loins, who, with two sailors wounded in several parts of 
 their bodies, with great difficulty got on board. After 
 dressing their wounds, they communicated to me the fol- 
 lowing narrative : 
 
 " On the evening of the 26th August, two sampans with 
 twelve men in each, having a small quantity of pepper, 
 came alongside the ship and offered it for sale, as it frequent- 
 ly happens. The second mate, whose watch it was, being 
 particularly acquainted with Lebbey Ousso, juratoolis of 
 Muckie, and knowing that he had assisted Captain W. in 
 his former voyages, thought it no harm to allow him and 
 his people to come up. as they were very good friends, not- 
 withstanding it was then night-time. When they came 
 up, he told them the captain was asleep, and had been in- 
 disposed many days, and that they would be obliged to 
 wait until he awoke to weigh their pepper and settle the 
 price. He also told them that the custom of the ship was, 
 by way of precaution, to ask for their weapons, which 
 they without any objection, immediately gave up, and he 
 got these secured under lock and key. After which they 
 feigned to sleep in different parts of the deck, awaiting the 
 appearance of the captain, who came up about ten o'clock, 
 when they asked him to weigh their pepper. Lebbey 
 Ousso, feigning friendship for the captain, complained of 
 the distrust of the second mate, and requested to have his 
 
256 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 own and his friends' daggers given back to them, which 
 was accordingly complied with. From his long acquaint- 
 ance with the man, the captain did not think that he was 
 doing an act of imprudence in giving their daggers. Du- 
 ring this interval, the second mate and two sailors were 
 busy in getting ready the scales for weighing the pepper 
 that was on deck. As the second draught was being 
 weighed, the captain, who was seated by a light near the 
 binnacle, cried out, ' I am stabbed.' The second mate, 
 who was stooping to take up the bags, was stabbed in the 
 loins. At the same time, the apprentice, who was near the 
 captain, was killed by the very same hand that slew his 
 commander. The second mate jumped overboard, not- 
 withstanding his wound. Part of the crew followed his 
 example, and the rest went up the masts and yards. The 
 mate, and those who followed him, afterwards returned to 
 the ship, by the ropes that were hanging from the quarter- 
 deck, and went up the masts to join the others. Several 
 among them were wounded. During this time, the murder- 
 ers were looking out for other victims. They found the cook 
 in irons for insubordination. He begged for his life, prom- 
 ising to show them the place where the dollars and opium 
 were deposited. They immediately broke his fetters and 
 set him free, and took four cases of opium and eighteen 
 casks containing 18,000 Spanish dollars, and left the ship 
 in company with their good friend the cook. The second 
 mate and four sailors who were on board, armed a boat 
 and came to us, leaving the ship without any guardian to 
 take care of her. The carpenter and two sailors went on 
 shore to join the chief mate and four sailors, who were 
 left there for the purpose of procuring pepper. 
 
 " On the morning of the 27th, we unanimously agreed 
 that the sailors should return to their ship and hoist the sig- 
 nal of distress, to call the chief mate, and if he did not 
 come, to fire a gun, which they did on their arrival on 
 board. 
 
 " The second mate and sailor that had two severe wounds 
 in their bodies, and another wounded in the foot, remained 
 on board of my ship for four days, after which we took 
 them on board of an American brig, that was trading at 
 Assahan. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 257 
 
 " On the 27th, at two in the afternoon, Tunkoo Datoraga 
 of Nunpat Tuan, sent his schooner in quest of the robbers ; 
 she returned the next day without being able to discover 
 any thing. 
 
 "I was afterwards informed, that the ship Eclipse, under 
 the command of the chief mate, sailed for Muckie, to take 
 one of the chiefs of that place to Soosoo, to recover his 
 losses and part of the opium, which the Rajah of that coun- 
 try got from the robbers. These he refused to give up. 
 
 " This statement contains all that I know, and which I 
 give as authentic. 
 
 " I have the honor to be, sir, 
 
 " Your most obedient servant, 
 
 " A. VAN ISEGHEN. 
 
 Captain of the barque 1'Aglee of Nantes. 
 Penang, October 12th, 1838." 
 
 " A true copy, 
 
 J. REVELY, 
 
 Consular Agent of the United States of America, 
 at Prince of Wales' Island." 
 
 It may be a fortunate circumstance that our arrival at 
 Colombo occurred just at this time, for the accomplish- 
 ment of some part of the purposes for which our ships 
 have been sent into these seas. We have, by the coinci- 
 dence of our arrival and the publication of the preceding 
 paper, obtained this intelligence four days after our reach- 
 ing this port ; and there seems so much probability of the 
 truth of the statement, that it becomes a matter of inter- 
 est that the squadron should be prepared for the exigencies 
 that may occur, and that the ships should hasten to the 
 ground where this outrage is said to have occurred. And 
 although it would be most grateful to linger here, where 
 the hospitality of the people is so unbounded and cordial, 
 and at a moment when aquaintances have been formed 
 of so much interest as to make us greatly wish to prolong 
 that acquaintance, and in some good degree to reciprocate 
 the courtesies which have been received from the residents 
 on shore, yet pleasure always should yield to duty ; or 
 rather, our chief pleasure should be in doing our duty, 
 whatever temporary sacrifices it may cost. 
 
 22* 
 
 
258 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 On Friday, the day after the preceding document ap- 
 peared in the Colombo paper, I took tiffin, as an early un- 
 ceremonious dinner is called, at three o'clock P. M., with 
 the Rev. Mr. Bailey, and met the Rev. Mr. Marsh, and 
 one of the Wesleyan missionaries, with a Mr. S., and a 
 Lieutenant in the English navy. I had purposed to spend 
 the evening in riding, as it was understood that we would 
 sail on the morrow ; and expecting a longer delay at Co- 
 lombo, I had willingly postponed my intended drives and 
 some additional visits on shore for the succeeding week. 
 
 After partaking of this no unsubstantial meal, which 
 here corresponds more with the southern snack rather 
 than the northern lunch, at home, Mr. M. proffered to take 
 me in his carriage on the drive, while the one I had order- 
 ed was directed to follow. 
 
 We nearly encircled the lake, passing through the cin- 
 namon groves which lie adjacent to the suburbs of the city, 
 and finally reached a prominent position occupied by the 
 Rev. Mr. M. Here we gained a view, which on a clearer 
 day must be peculiarly fine. And far across, on the lake, 
 as seen on this showery evening, my eye rested with pleas- 
 ure on the lovely mansion of Sir John Wilson. 
 
 Returning to the town with my cinnamon boughs, and 
 various leaves of various plants, I drove at a late hour to 
 a Moor-man's shop, to complete a collection of superb and 
 curious shells, which a good fortune had given me to find, 
 in Colombo. I sat for some time with Corin, the shell mer- 
 chant, who has his shells in baskets, piled up in a miserable 
 hut, like almost all the native shops of the bazaars of the 
 East. This said Corin, the Moorish shell-merchant, might 
 be of some convenience to those who may follow us, with 
 like desires of my own to make a collection in conchology. 
 At the same time, it will always be advisable for the pur- 
 chaser to be careful in the prices he offers. Generally 
 the venders in shells, and in all other things in the East, 
 will take half, and often less than half of what they origi- 
 nally ask. It is a confirmed habit with them, to ask double 
 the value of the article they would dispose of, and were 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 259 
 
 you to give their price at once, you probably would very 
 much astonish them, and do injustice to yourself. 
 
 I purchased a large number of shells from Corin. Two 
 boxes packed with taste, and others in baskets. Ceylon 
 is evidently the best place in the East for making a collec- 
 tion in conchology. 
 
 Several men took my boxes and baskets, forming a little 
 cavalcade, to the customhouse, for the night, whence they 
 were to be taken off to the ship the next morning. They 
 made their appearance accordingly ; and I think they 
 will gratify the eye of the common gazer, on their reach- 
 ing the United States ; while the duplicates may form an 
 acceptable acquisition to any cabinet that may so far 
 secure the complacency of the possessor, as to induce him 
 to make half the collection a donation to it. 
 
 On Saturday morning, December 1st, agreeably to in- 
 vitation, his Excellency, lady and daughters, and others of 
 the powers that are of the Ceylon Isle, of whose hospitality 
 the Commodore and his officers had been the recipients, 
 came off to the Columbia, to breakfast. It would have 
 gratified Commodore Read, to have given a very general 
 entertainment before he left the Roads of Colombo, and in 
 that style, which would have evinced, at least, the desire to 
 please the generous people whom he had met ; and more 
 creditably, than was now in his power, in consequence of 
 his sudden departure, to have reciprocated on board his 
 ship, the courtesies which he had received on shore. And 
 a like feeling prompted the desires of the officers of the 
 ward-room. But the only practicable thing, in the time 
 that was left, was to manifest to his Excellency and the 
 authorities, his sense of their politeness, by an invitation to 
 breakfast a popular meal, according to the custom pre- 
 vailing through the East, and borrowed from the mother 
 country ; and of late somewhat introduced into our own. 
 
 The Columbia's boats were sent to the shore between 
 the hours of 9 and 10 o'clock, and a salute in compliment 
 to his Excellency, ere long, announced his arrival on board. 
 The breakfast passed off with apparent pleasantness to the 
 party his Excellency, in an apt and pretty speech com- 
 plimenting our nation and expressing his happiness to have 
 enjoyed the opportunity of meeting with our Commodore 
 
260 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and his officers, and desiring prosperity to themselves indi- 
 vidually and to the nation, in the accomplishment of whose 
 commissions we were sailing. 
 
 Commodore Read, deeming himself called upon by the 
 national allusion in the Governor's remarks, replied, in 
 equally complimentary terms to the British nation, a peo- 
 ple, whom we not only more than respected, but to whom 
 we gave our preference among the nations of the globe. 
 The courtesies which we had received were acknowledg- 
 ed ; and with cordial sincerity it vyas believed, that the 
 interest and the happiness of England and America lay in 
 the perpetuity of that good-will and friendship which he 
 knew, so far as the feelings of Americans were concerned, 
 now to exist between the two nations. 
 
 The ladies seemed pleased with the ship ; and it would 
 have been a pretty compliment to have weighed anchor, 
 and put to sea for a few miles, favored with their compa- 
 ny, and then to have tacked ship, stood in, giving them 
 our last adieus, as the ship was lying aback and the boats 
 took them to the shore, and then filled away again, on our 
 bounding track of the boundless seas. As it was, the party 
 left the ship at about twelve o'clock the yards being 
 manned as his Excellency left the deck ; and the crew, in 
 their three cheers, bearing to his ear what the pulses of 
 our own hearts would have conveyed to his, that we left 
 him with cordial feelings of interest for his welfare, and 
 due appreciation of the courtesies we had received during 
 our short delay at the spicy isle. 
 
 The shades of the night-fall were on the sea, ere many 
 hours more, and the moonbeam fell again upon our spread 
 canvass, bearing us on our course to the yet further East. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 261 
 
 SECTION XL 
 
 General preparations for an attack on the Malays. Ships anchor off Anna, 
 laboo, island of Sumatra. Sunset. Ships at anchor off Kwala Batu. A 
 Malay comes on board the frigate. Po Adam follows him. His state- 
 ment of the murder of Captain Wilkins and the distribution of the pro. 
 perty found on board the Eclipse. Landing of the first boat at Kwala 
 Batu, for a talk with the Rajah. Instructions to Captain Wyman. Sec. 
 ond interview and talk. Po Nyah-heit. A beautiful wild buffalo. Ma. 
 lay wit. The ships prepare for action. Cannonading of Kwala Batu. 
 Christmas in the tropics. Ships sail for Muckie. Boat goes ashore for a 
 talk with the Rajahs of Muckie. News from home. Things are valuable 
 for their association. Destruction of Muckie. Captain Wyman's Report. 
 Soo-Soo. Po Chute Abdullah's obligation to pay two thousand dollars. 
 Commodore Read's paper to the Rajah. Talk with the Rajahs of Soo- 
 Soo. Pledge of the Rajahs. A stroll. Interview at Pulau Kayu, with 
 Po Kwala, Pedir Rajah of Kwala Batu. Agreement, and the scene of 
 affixing the seal to the instrument. Po Kwala's visit to the frigate. 
 
 WE have now been out from Colombo for five days. 
 In view of the possibility and probability that we shall 
 have something to do, ere long, with the Malays, the ship's 
 crew, in their different divisions, have been grinding their 
 cutlasses, battle-axes, pikes, and putting their guns and 
 pistols in order, for immediate use. 
 
 The men are deemed to be well drilled for sailors; and, 
 as sailor-soldiers, doubtless will accomplish any thing on 
 ship-board or on shore, which can be reasonably expected 
 from them. The increased probability, however, that the 
 services of a detachment from the ship will be required, 
 has led to more particular exercise with the small-arms 
 since we left Colombo. The target has been rigged out 
 at the yard-arm, for the men to practice at, with their fire- 
 arms ; and another, in the gangway, for improving them 
 in pistol-shooting. Every preparation is made, and the 
 ship is now in perfect readiness to act with promptness, 
 when information shall have been obtained in connection 
 with the affirmed murder and robbery, which shall render 
 action justifiable and obligatory. 
 
 We are now nearing the ground of the murder of the 
 crew of the ship Friendship, some few years since ; and 
 where the late additional scene of perfidy, murder, and 
 
262 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 robbery, is affirmed to have taken place. Ere long, at 
 least, all suspense will be relieved by the reality, which 
 must soon present itself; it is to be hoped, however, not 
 at the expense of the lives of any of the officers of the 
 Columbia or the Adams. But no one on board, when 
 necessity and propriety direct, will be found one moment 
 to hesitate, even critically to expose his life in the ac- 
 complishment of duty and orders. And the expedition, 
 if it land, will, no doubt, be conducted with judgment, 
 and most certainly with no lack of recklessness and cou- 
 rage. Bravery is never wanting in the young gentlemen 
 or older ones of our navy, whenever an order is to be 
 executed ; prudence and maturity of judgment may be, 
 frequently. In all that relates to the circumstances of 
 these miserable people, and the safety of our own officers 
 and men, in the event of a landing from our ships, may 
 a merciful as well as a. just God direct. 
 
 The John Adams, ahead of us, signalized to the Co- 
 lumbia, at meridian to-day, Dec. 19th, that she saw two 
 vessels anchored in shore, which we soon made out to be 
 on our larboard beam. We are now off Annalaboo, island 
 of Sumatra. The Commodore gave an order for the 
 ships to stand in shore ; and having done so, we came to 
 anchor within some five or six miles of the land, near 
 which the two brigs are lying, to which a boat, with the 
 First Lieutenant, has been despatched, to gain all the in- 
 formation possible in connection with the affirmed murder 
 of the captain and part of the crew of the Eclipse, and 
 the taking of her money. The boat, like a speck, was 
 seen, and scarcely seen, in the distance, as I last looked 
 at her, nearing the largest of the two brigs, whose English 
 colors were flying. 
 
 I watched the sun as it went down to-night, beneath 
 the rim of the far-out ocean. How often have I thought 
 of home, as I have watched the beautiful illumination in 
 the west, at the sunset hour, which always points out to 
 me where the land of my home lies, in its distance and 
 blessedness ! And I never tire in gazing at the sunset 
 scene. It ever awakens feelings that make me happy, 
 often melancholy, and always gathers over me a species 
 of the serene in emotion. How beautiful ! how glorious ' 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 263 
 
 how devotional ! It seems the hour of nature's evening 
 worship. There, in the west, she lights up her temple, 
 every eve. How gorgeous are those spacious vestibules, 
 that lead into her garnished inner courts ! The sapphire- 
 pillars stretch themselves in endless colonnades, enclosing 
 other massive and gorgeous shafts, supporting their en- 
 tablatures of mammoth emeralds, with frieze and cornice 
 inlaid of pearl and amethyst, and on which are resting a 
 hundred golden domes ! And the lost sun, pouring forth 
 its flood of glory from a central point in the foreground, 
 throws up from the evening's golden censer her oblation 
 in burning incense, as it tinges the fleecy folds of the 
 clouds which linger over the scene as spirit- worshippers 
 in saffron, and carmine, and vermilion. Who could not 
 almost become a Parsee at an hour so beautiful, and fall 
 before the setting sun and worship its hallowing glories ? 
 
 The boat has returned from the brig. She is just from 
 Penang, and arrived here only a few hours before us. She 
 had learned the same particulars there, which we received 
 through the Colombo paper, as extracted from the Penang 
 Gazette. The captain is acquainted with the consular 
 agent at Penang, who transacts the business both for the 
 French and American vessels at Prince of Wales' Island. 
 
 The captain of the trader has been on this coast for 
 fifteen or twenty years, and says that the Malays are 
 treacherous and can never be trusted. He invariably 
 requires that their arms be resigned before they are per- 
 mitted to come on board his vessel. 
 
 We get under way at about three o'clock to-night, 
 and stand on our course to Kwala Batu, where we expect 
 to be, at some hour of the day to-morrow. Things look 
 a little more like an expedition on shore. And should it 
 be found that the Muckie people are implicated in these 
 treacherous and murderous proceedings, we learn that our 
 ships can lie close in to the place, and, without ceremony, 
 batter down their town, a thing which the information 
 obtained may require to be done. The distance, nor time, 
 can be very long before our position and action will de- 
 cide. 
 
264 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 OFF KWALA BATU. 
 
 We have come to an anchor, in thirty fathoms of water 
 to-night, December 20, in sight of the lights on shore, 
 which we take for Kwala Batu. 
 
 " The probabilities seem to augment a little, to-day, 
 as to an expedition on shore, do they not Mr. T. ?" asks 
 one young gentleman, approaching me on the quarter- 
 deck. 
 
 " Should think they did, while it yet remains, as I take 
 it, but a perhaps." 
 
 " The plot seems to be deepening, Mr. T.." adds an- 
 other, approaching from another quarter. 
 
 " And yet the fifth act may be wanting at least it is 
 so to be hoped, so far as it may involve any but the 
 guilty." 
 
 The ward-room mess have gotten nearly out of "fresh 
 grub," as fresh provisions are called on ship-board ; and 
 in the length of time we have been out, we are now re- 
 duced to "hard tack," also another phrase for ship-biscuit, 
 which would require a sledge-hammer almost to break, 
 at least that quality of it which was purchased at Bom- 
 bay, having nearly exhausted our American biscuit, which 
 was quite eatable even to one who has some regard for 
 his teeth, in comparison with the flinty substance obtained 
 at Bombay. 
 
 " What a rush there will be for the hen-roost," adds a 
 third gentleman, with a little spice of an epicurean in his 
 nature, "when we shall have frightened the Malays from 
 their bamboo palaces !" 
 
 The mess-table of the ward-room has been well sup- 
 plied with fresh provisions, nearly the whole time we 
 have been from the U. S., as also with soft bread, newly 
 baked, for each day. And the deprivation of fare so re- 
 spectable and acceptable to voyagers so many days at 
 sea, makes a small interruption to such things observable, 
 even if they should never lead to unamiableness. 
 
 The tea-table had been cleared, when one of the Lieu- 
 tenants called for a glass of water, and had spent some 
 time in vain endeavor to take, with his silver trap, three 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 265 
 
 skippers, which were sailing deep down in the sea of his 
 tumbler. 
 
 " Well, my nimble fellows, if you will not resign your- 
 selves complacently, to be removed to other quarters, you 
 must enter on a traverse of unknown but not unfrequented 
 coast for the like of ye," said the Lieutenant, with a very 
 considerable threat that the three skippers should, without 
 much further ceremony, be submitted to the chemical 
 alternative of the gastric laboratory. 
 
 " And there, then," continued the officer, on re-examin- 
 ing the glass after a moderate sip of the fluid, " one of 
 your triad seems to have trailed on a new path of wilder- 
 ness to him." 
 
 " Thanks, Mr. skipper-destroyer," added the Lieuten- 
 ant's neighbor, " for your benevolent consideration of 
 the public good. I take it, that same small draft of yours 
 will save me from the serenades of at least one nearly-to- 
 be-born musqueto, as his chrysalis took his gauge of the 
 vasty deep." 
 
 " There is still one way more of securing the remain- 
 ing duet," continued the same gentleman as he dipped his 
 spoon into the clear water, minus the two remaining 
 skippers. 
 
 " That is what one may call running them aground, I 
 suppose," added another neighbor, at his end of the table, 
 seeing the water diminishing by spoonfuls. 
 
 A silence of some three minutes, (a long and profound, 
 for a ward-room table,) now prevailed, while the First 
 Lieutenant was examining the external coat of an insect, 
 which, by some presumptuous intrusion had presented 
 himself as a self-invited guest, or had boarded us, with 
 unknown malicious intent, from the Malay coast. " Shall 
 we have mercy for him or not ?" asked the tender-hearted 
 officer. 
 
 " No mercy," seemed to be the sentence of the majority. 
 Every kind of insects on board of ships have no quarters 
 appropriated to them, and, therefore, he was denied both 
 " light and air." 
 
 Another silence of three minutes ! " It is my delibe- 
 rate opinion," abruptly added the surgeon, " that they are 
 holding a town-meeting on shore to-night." 
 
 23 
 
266 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The doctor's supposition seemed to be a very sensible 
 one, to which all assented, with the expectation of hearing 
 the subjects of their discussions on the morrow. And this 
 sketch is given here, merely to show how devoid of all 
 sense of danger or feelings of solicitude were any of 
 the officers of the Columbia on this eve, preceding, per- 
 haps, a morrow which shall find them on shore, receiving 
 the shots of an enemy. And this, too, after the discussion 
 of the Dutch expeditions, the first and second of which 
 were cut off, and another was sent to engage the people, 
 whose town is now lying near us, with the loss of sixty 
 or seventy of their number, within a few years back. 
 
 The probability, however, of an expedition going to 
 the shore. I deem to be involved in considerable uncer- 
 tainty, and from this cause, doubtless, those who are in- 
 cluded in the detachment to be sent from the ship, in 
 case the exigency requires their going to the shore, may 
 feel differently from what might be the case, were their 
 landing a certainty. But were the shore expedition fixed 
 upon, as a thing certainly to take place, no particular 
 anxiety, even then, would be manifested. So profound 
 is the* habit of military life and of naval action, where 
 duty and orders lead. It is, with them, no more than the 
 laboring man going to his daily work, and the professional 
 one to his speech, with the agreeable excitement of in- 
 terest, rather than with any fear or anxiety. 
 
 We wait until daylight, when the ships again get under 
 way, to stand nearer to the shore. Ignorant of the sound- 
 ings, it would be imprudent to put further in for the night. 
 The further action of the ships will depend on the infor- 
 mation that may be obtained. 
 
 Our ships were not under way so early the succeeding 
 morning as was anticipated, owing to the want of a suffi- 
 cient breeze to drive our vessels through the water. A 
 canoe, however, ere long was espied in the distance, 
 making its way towards the Columbia. On reaching our 
 ship, the principal Malay came over her side and reported 
 that he had been sent by Po ADAM, who, it seems, has 
 made out our vessels aright. The Malay stated that Po 
 Adam was ready to come on board if the Commodore 
 desired it. He also confirmed the truth of the reported 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 267 
 
 murder of Captain Wilkins and one of the crew of the 
 American barque Eclipse, and the plundering of the ves- 
 sel. One of the murderers, he affirmed, was now at Kwala 
 Batu, and two thousand dollars of the money taken from 
 the ship, was in the hands of the Rajah there ; others of 
 the murderers are at Soo-Soo, and others at Muckie, and 
 the rest of the money had been distributed among the 
 Rajahs of Muckie and Soo-Soo. 
 
 Our ships having stood in some distance with the fresh- 
 ening breeze, another canoe was seen in the distance, and 
 
268 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 m a short time Po Adam's self, big as life, came over the 
 gangway, with a cordial expression of countenance, as if he 
 had gotten among friends. He greeted the officers, and 
 was re-greeted by them. The name of this man has been 
 very favorably heard of, as one who rendered effective 
 assistance to Captain Endicott and others of the crew of 
 the Friendship, when a number of her men had been cut 
 off, and to whose kindness and assistance Captain E. thought 
 he owed, in no inconsiderable degree, his safety. His as- 
 sistance contributed to his support and comfort after they 
 had put off from the shore, and for several days were in 
 the small-boat along the shore. The story is told in the 
 narrative of the voyage of the Potomac, so as to produce 
 a favorable impression of this trusty Malay, if the word 
 trusty, m anyone instance, can be applied, with propriety, 
 to one of a notoriously treacherous people. 
 
 Po Adam repeated what he had directed his man to 
 communicate, and added many other particulars, and rep- 
 resented things with so much apparent fidelity, that it was 
 decided that a boat should be sent ashore for the purpose 
 of gaining an interview with the Rajah. 
 
 FIRST TALK WITH THE RAJAH OF KWALA BATU. 
 
 The officer was instructed to make known to the Rajah 
 that we had received information of the robbery commit- 
 ted on board of the Eclipse, the murder of her captain and 
 one of her crew that we were informed that one of the 
 murderers was at Kwala Batu that we had come with 
 friendly intentions, and wished to know if the Rajah will 
 give up the murderer, which it is expected that he will do, 
 if he values and would continue to value the friendship of 
 the Government of the United States. 
 
 Po Adam had assured Commodore Read that the persons 
 of the officers who should go on shore would be safe, and 
 run no risk in visiting the Rajah with him. But as all the 
 Malays are treacherous, implicit confidence could not judi- 
 ciously be placed in this man, although he had given so 
 conclusive an evidence of his former honesty. Still, as the 
 probabilities were so preponderating in favor of Po Adam's 
 statements and trusty character, the Commodore deemed 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 269 
 
 the risk to be small, in sending a boat in, and did so ac- 
 cordingly. 
 
 The boat started from the ship with Lieutenants Farmer 
 and Pennock,and Lieutenant Baker of the marines, accom- 
 panied by Po Adam and one of our sailors, who has some 
 familiarity with the Malay language, as an interpreter. 
 
 The hour had already advanced towards evening, and 
 the boat neared the beach only a short time before sundown. 
 If there had been doubt as to the propriety of sending a 
 boat ashore before it left the ship, the officers' suspicions 
 were now but little allayed, as they saw the shore lined 
 by more than a hundred armed Malays, who had unsheath- 
 ed their weapons and wielded them above their heads, as 
 the officers supposed, with an attitude of defiance. It was 
 the same movement among these treacherous natives 
 which had prevented the boat's crew of the Potomac from 
 landing, when that frigate was on the coast, to punish 
 these same people for their treachery towards the crew of 
 the Friendship. But notwithstanding every dark-skinned 
 and frowning-faced Sumatrian raised each his kris, a wea- 
 pon of fearful association in connection with their treach- 
 ery, to the number of a hundred glaring blades, with nearly 
 as many more small daggers in their girdles, the boat was 
 driven boldly upon the beach, and the three officers jump- 
 ed, without hesitation, into the midst of this wild and armed 
 multitude, who immediately surrounded them as they 
 walked- up the beach, and entered the pass to the Rajah's 
 fort. As they were moving on with the armed crowd, Po 
 Adam seemed not unfrequently to laugh unnaturally loud, 
 as he talked with the crowd, which pressed on even against 
 his apparent remonstrance. And when they passed the 
 furthest stockade, through a gate that opened into another, 
 which contained the bamboo palace of the Rajah, they 
 found the chief upon an elevated stand, presenting a per- 
 son of a larger frame and of finer proportions than had 
 been seen among his retainers, or the mob upon whom the 
 gate had now been shut, while numbers had managed to 
 throw themselves into the enclosure before the passage 
 had been closed. 
 
 The greeting passed, and Po Adam manifested great re- 
 spect and considerable ceremony towards the Rajah; when 
 
 23* 
 
270 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 it was indicated that a talk with the chief was desired, to 
 communicate the Commodore's sentiments through the 
 officers from the Columbia. The Rajah, unwilling that 
 this talk should proceed in so open a position, led the way 
 to his adjacent council-chamber, into which only one of his 
 friends was admitted, while the conversation was carried 
 on in a whisper. 
 
 " It would be something of a difficult matter for them 
 to board us here," said Moses, with a slight squinting of his 
 eye, which at once took in the bearings and defences of 
 the room. 
 
 Moses, one of the quarter-masters, had followed the offi- 
 cers, with two pistols in his belt and a cutlass at his side, 
 giving him, in spite of his amiable phiz, something of a 
 ucaneer-rake, in the favoring shades of the night, which 
 had now advanced upon them. 
 
 The party seated themselves for the talk, some with the 
 apprehension of receiving a slight piece of steel through 
 their ribs before they were done with it ; and that no such 
 inconvenient weapon might reach them through the bam- 
 boo floor, which their imagination had constructed for them, 
 some of their number, by a species of intuition, placed 
 themselves above a sleeper, or leaned against a stanchion, 
 or other more solid piece of material than a bamboo mat- 
 ting. They had heard of the Malays finding the life-blood 
 of their enemies through the slight partitions of bamboo, 
 or matted walls of cane, or other light material, of which 
 they construct their buildings. 
 
 But the talk was over, and with all the excitement of 
 awakened imaginations, the known treachery of these peo- 
 ple, and the scene through which they had moved from the 
 beach, full before them, the officers left the Rajah, and made 
 their way back again for the boat, anticipating the same 
 crowd to be around their path. But they wound through 
 the several passes, finally reached the open beach, and to 
 their own surprise, with the certainty that their heads were 
 on and their sides unriddled, they entered the boat, but 
 not without a drenching from the high breakers which were 
 rolling in, through which they had to pass to reach the cut- 
 ter, which was lying moored a short distance from the 
 shore, to save her from thumping in the surf. The party 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 271 
 
 having returned to the ship, expressed themselves as hav- 
 ing passed through one of the most exciting scenes, in view 
 of the known treachery of the Malay character, their own 
 helpless situation, and the unknown disposition of the mass 
 of the Malays who surrounded them. But the Rajah was 
 sufficiently courteous to them, and the result of the con- 
 ference was, that he would, during the night, send his men 
 and take and confine the murderer, now at Kwala Batu, 
 and he should be delivered up to-morrow. 
 
 Po Adam returned with the officers, and seemed to think 
 that the Rajah was sincere in his intentions to take the man 
 now at Kwala Batu, who had been concerned in the rob- 
 bery and murder committed on board the ship Eclipse. 
 
 The Rajah denied nothing in connection with this man 
 and the transaction ; but consented to the truth of the oc- 
 currence and the fact of one of the murderers being in his 
 town, by affirming that he would use every effort during 
 the night to take him, that he might, on the morrow, be 
 delivered up as demanded. 
 
 As Po Adam was going over the side of the ship to enter 
 the Columbia's boat, for the shore excursion already de- 
 scribed, he was in considerable good cheer ; and left as 
 hostages, to assure us of his fidelity, the men who had come 
 off with him in his canoe. When he had mounted to the 
 top of the steps of the gangway, he turned round, seeming 
 to catch the spirit of the officers and the crew, who were 
 looking upon him ; and with a cunning laugh and shake 
 of his little hand, he added, in his broken English, "Neber 
 you fear me come again look sharp /" The last expres- 
 sion had reference to the four Malays he left on board ; and 
 Po Adam's whole expression of face and person, and sig- 
 nificant and broken English, caused the officers and men, 
 for once, to forget their gravity ; and to Po's no little de- 
 light, a general smile passed over the countenances of the 
 more than a hundred faces which were, at the moment, 
 gazing upon him. 
 
 It was believed, notwithstanding the professions of the 
 Rajah, that he would not make any particular effort during 
 the night to take the murderer whom he had protected, and 
 with whom we have every reason to suppose he shared 
 the money, to the amount of two thousand dollars. 
 
272 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 SECOND TALK WITH THE RAJAH. 
 
 It was therefore the wish of the Commodore to let this 
 Rajah know at once what was expected of him, and on what 
 he should insist. He accordingly made out the following 
 instructions to Captain Wyman, of the John Adams, now 
 lying near us : 
 
 SIR : 
 
 " You will call upon the Rajah of Kwala Batu, and in- 
 form him what we have learned at Ceylon and other places 
 respecting the attack and plunder of the ship Eclipse, and 
 the murder of Captain Wilkins and one of his crew. 
 
 " You will make known to him that it is the desire of 
 the Government of the United States to remain at peace 
 and on terms of friendship with the chiefs and people of 
 Sumatra ; that we have come to the island as friends, and 
 hope that we shall be enabled to leave Kwala Batu in the 
 continuance of the same sentiments. But this must depend 
 upon the readiness which shall be evinced by the Rajah 
 to give up one of the murderers of Captain Wilkins, who, 
 having taken refuge in Kwala Batu, has been protected 
 by the Rajah. 
 
 " You are also instructed to demand all the money and 
 any other property which the murderer brought with him 
 to this place, and is known to be part of the plunder of 
 the ship Eclipse. 
 
 " You will endeavor to make the Rajah explicit, by in- 
 quiring of him what course he means to take ; whether 
 that of a friend or an enemy. If a friend, he will at once 
 give up this murderer ; and cause the money and other 
 property taken from the ship Eclipse and may now be 
 found at Kwala Batu, immediately to be returned, through 
 me, to the proper owners. 
 
 " I am, sir, very respectfully, 
 
 " Your obedient servant, 
 
 " GEORGE C. READ, 
 " Commanding the U. S. Naval Force in the Indian Seas. 
 
 " To Commander THOMAS W. WYMAN, 
 
 U. S. Ship John Adams." 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 273 
 
 Captain Wyman was accompanied to the shore by two 
 or three of his officers, and three from our own ship. It 
 was yet a matter of doubt what might be the reception of 
 our boats. The threatening appearances of the preceding 
 evening, and the possibility that the Rajah was using a 
 finesse for delaying our action ; and the possibility, too, 
 that even Po Adam might be playing his game, and be 
 implicated in the transactions which related to the money, 
 rendered many things suspicious ; for Po Adam seemed 
 hand and glove with the people on shore, and yet, when 
 away from them, was obviously concerting their overthrow 
 and destruction. There was, however, but little solicitude 
 felt by those officers who were conveyed to the shore. 
 
 The boats nearly reached the beach, when the grap- 
 nels were dropped, and the officers conveyed through the 
 breakers to the shore, on the trusty shoulders of the ever- 
 obedient and ever ready tar. The Malays, to the apparent 
 number of fifty or sixty, were on the beach as before, while 
 their weapons now were mostly in their sheaths. We ad- 
 vanced, however, without solicitude, through a narrow 
 passage-way, stockaded on either side, leading to an area 
 lined, like itself, by a stockade of bamboo. Passing through 
 this enclosure, we entered a gate-way that opened into 
 yet another stockaded enclosure, which contained the bam- 
 boo dwelling of the Malay Chief. We found the Rajah, 
 as he was found the evening before, elevated upon his 
 bamboo throne of state. He^welcome us by rising, and 
 with a shake of the hand the latter action requiring his 
 chieftainship to bend forward and downward, to receive 
 the proffered emblem of friendship while his position was 
 such, that it would have been difficult for an enemy to have 
 reached his bosom unobserved (a la Malay) with one of 
 their stealthy weapons. I further remarked, at the moment, 
 that a gate-way leading directly to the Rajah's fort, was 
 behind the elevated position on which the chieftain had 
 placed himself, affording him a retreat, in case of necessity, 
 to his fortress ; as in olden times the Baron, when endan- 
 gered in his castle, escaped for his safety through some 
 secret trap-door, giving him access to some concealed 
 passage-way, by which to elude his enemies. 
 
 So soon as the greeting was over, Captain Wyman 
 
274 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 signified that he had been instructed by the Commodore 
 to wait on the Rajah, to have a talk with him ; and signi- 
 fied that he would proceed to make known his instructions 
 if the Rajah was ready to hear him. 
 
 The Rajah motioned that he would adjourn to the ve- 
 randah of his house, which serves as his council-chamber. 
 We ascended to this apartment by a flight of steps, con- 
 structed as a common ladder, with the exception of the 
 rounds, which in this instance gave place for wider mate- 
 rials for the cross-pieces. We entered this balcony-kind 
 of a room, the floor of which was carpeted with matting. 
 A few considerably worn Persian rugs, with some fresher- 
 made mats, had been placed for the guests to sit upon. 
 Two seats also were arranged in the verandah, one a back- 
 less chair, the other a chair with a back, which Captain 
 W. and myself occupied ; while others placed themselves, 
 a la Turk, upon the mats, or sat on the balustrade the 
 open side of the room looking directly over the Rajah's 
 fort, towards the sea. The Rajah placed himself upon a 
 mat furthest possible in a corner, to which spot the chairs 
 were drawn, and around sat the officers, with Po Adam 
 and the sailor, who served as our interpreters, on their 
 haunches near the Rajah. 
 
 But previous to the entrance upon the subjects which 
 Captain Wyman was instructed definitely to bring before 
 the Rajah, a silence of a considerable length continued ; 
 while twenty men, more or less, of the Rajah's retainers, 
 were collecting cocoa-nuts, fresh from the surrounding 
 trees. These they brought to the foot of the ladder be- 
 low, and with their krises, a long-bladed weapon, they cut 
 off the outer part of each end, and opened a small vent 
 through the soft material with the point of the instrument, 
 and presented one to each of the officers, to drink of the 
 delicious beverage. This is apparently the universal cus- 
 tom of the Rajahs here, as a prelude to the commencement 
 of a council talk. 
 
 The Rajah now untied his knotted handkerchief, in 
 which he carried several small cases, filled with various 
 articles which contribute to the luxury of his taste ; and to 
 each corner of the handkerchief was attached a gold nob, 
 both for ornament and that the tie might more conve- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 275 
 
 niently be made. The Rajah first opened a silver case, 
 from which he took a bundle of green beetel leaves, put up 
 in a convenient form for him to make a selection. He 
 next opened a golden box, from which he took a substance 
 of the consistency of cream, being a mixture of lime, and 
 spread it entirely over the leaf. He then placed within 
 the leaf thus prepared, a compound make up of various 
 materials, spice, opium, aracca-nut, a little tobacco, etc. ; 
 and seemed, like his kindred skins about him of similar 
 tastes, to be much delighted with his cud quite as re- 
 spectable at least, in its appearance, as those which often 
 grace to the disgrace of the mouths of many American 
 gentlemen. 
 
 The cocoa-nut beverage having been drunk, to the 
 content of all, the council was deemed to be regularly 
 opened according to custom. Captain Wyman stated that 
 we had heard of the robbery and murder committed, and 
 desired to know if the murderer had been taken, as the 
 Rajah had given us to suppose would be the case, last 
 night. 
 
 The Rajah replied that he had been unable to take the 
 Malay that he had endeavored to seize him had sent 
 fifty men to accomplish it but he had not been appre- 
 hended, as it was hoped would be the case. He had, how- 
 ever, despatched his men, with letters around the country, 
 with the intention of yet taking him ; and he should be 
 delivered up as soon as he could be found. 
 
 This was all as we had anticipated. 
 
 The Rajah was then told, that it had been reported 
 that two thousand dollars of the money, taken from the 
 Eclipse, had been brought to Kwala Batu ; and that it 
 was expected that this, with any other property known to 
 have been taken from the Eclipse, should be returned. 
 
 The Rajah said that the money had been distributed, in 
 small quantities, to the people he never had any thing 
 to do with it he had refused to receive any of it and 
 he knew nothing about it and was unable to do any 
 thing about it. 
 
 Here, one of the sub-men suggested that some of it had 
 been buried, and could not be found. The statement was 
 entirely unsatisfactory and somewhat contradictory ; but 
 
276 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 even on the statement of the Rajah himself, the people of 
 his town were responsible, and therefore Kwala Batu has 
 become implicated in the outrage. 
 
 Nothing being gained at all satisfactory in the con- 
 tinuance of the talk, the Rajah was again assured that the 
 Government of the United States was desirous of preserv- 
 ing a friendly intercourse with Kwala Batu, but that it 
 would depend upon the Rajah's action whether the United 
 States and himself were to continue friends. If the mur- 
 derer and the property were brought on board the Colum- 
 bia, by sundown that evening, the good feeling which 
 the United States desired to preserve towards the Rajah 
 would continue. But if the murderer could not be taken 
 by that time, a deputation from the Rajah of one or more 
 men, (to whom Captain Wyman gave the assurances of 
 safety.) would be expected to make known to the Com- 
 modore the reason of the delay ; and the Rajah's good or 
 ill will would be judged of accordingly. 
 
 The Rajah himself had been invited to visit the Colum- 
 bia, to talk with the Commodore, but he declined visiting 
 the ship, giving an implied assurance, though hesitatingly 
 expressed, that a message should be sent off by night, if 
 the murderer was not taken. 
 
 The interview was here concluded. Gaining the con- 
 sent of the Rajah, we walked through the town, hastily, 
 and along the beach. I had been left some distance behind 
 the party, while examining some of the houses, and was 
 repeatedly among twenty or thirty of these armed and 
 treacherous men, asking questions of some of them, and 
 giving others a brief reply, which several of them, at dif- 
 ferent times, caught up and repeated, as a word of a lan- 
 guage peculiar in its sound to their ears. They rang their 
 changes on the word " yes," " yes," to the considerable 
 amusement of the crowd, which was gathering around me 
 as I passed along the bazaar ; and without waiting for 
 many moments to pass, while out of sight of the other offi- 
 cers, I hastened along the little winding river on the east 
 side of the town, and then wound to the right along the 
 beach. Captain Wyman and two of the officers had al- 
 ready wandered along the shore, to gain a view of the fort 
 which flanks the town on the west ; and as I was ad van- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 277 
 
 cing along the same course, far behind them and near to 
 the edge of the jungle, I came upon thirty or forty men, 
 gathered under a tree by themselves. The chief came 
 towards me as I approached. He was the best dressed 
 man I had seen. 
 
 " Come," said he, " let you and me have a talk ;" his 
 men gathering around me at the same time. 
 
 " Very well," I replied, " and what would you say ?" 
 
 I had observed this same man in the council, but he did 
 not appear to share the confidence of the Rajah. And 
 before the interview in the council was over, this same 
 chief rose, with a number of his followers with him, and 
 left the verandah. 
 
 " Me belong to another king," he continued. " This 
 one king here there, (pointing to the interior,) another 
 king. Me no fraid to go board ship. Me done nothing 
 me no fight when Potomac here. Me want to make 
 present of buffalo to Commodore and be friends." 
 
 I told this Malay, who is the son-in-law of a rich Rajah, 
 said to have more men than any other chief of the island, 
 in this region, that I presumed the Commodore could not 
 receive his buffalo, but that he must come on board and 
 see him. 
 
 " Me want to give him a buffalo, and be friends. Me 
 take you to my house and show you buffalo." 
 
 I followed the chief, whose name is Po Nyah-heit, with 
 his men attending him, with their weapons ; and soon we 
 entered his fort, some distance in the jungle, which in- 
 cludes an area of some extent, with the tall bamboos and 
 other trees embowering the romantic spot. The gate 
 was firmer and in better repair than I had elsewhere 
 seen. And there stood the beautiful, and young, and 
 wild buffalo, with a string through his nostrils, and a rope 
 around his horns and his legs, tying him to three or four 
 trees before and behind him. I saw, from his eye, that 
 he was wild, and requested that one of Po Nyah-heifs 
 men should approach him. As the man advanced, the 
 young and sleek animal snorted and shook his head and 
 rolled his brilliant eye, and bounded up and down as far 
 as the ropes would allow him. He was a beautiful crea- 
 ture, as fat as a well-stalled ox, but like a sleek-limbed 
 
 24 
 
278 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 two year old heifer, petted and rendered a prize specimen 
 for the city market. I should like to have owned that 
 beast, could it have remained as beautiful a thing as I 
 then saw it, and would have tamely coursed the fields as 
 a petted animal. 
 
 I did not choose longer to delay in so wild a place, 
 surrounded by so wild a multitude, out of sight, and re- 
 moved from any communication with our party. I there- 
 fore again invited Po Nyah-heit to come off to the Colum- 
 bia, and tender his buffalo himself to the Commodore, and 
 talk with him. 
 
 On communicating this interview to Captain Wyman, 
 he proposed to take Po Nyah-heit off in the boats with 
 us, if he would go. The principal Rajah himself had re- 
 fused to visit our ship, and hesitated about promising to 
 send any communication ; and it was in view of this 
 timidity and hesitation on the part of the Rajah, in the 
 council, that he said he was not afraid to go he was 
 innocent and on being asked by Captain W. if he would 
 like to accompany us to the ship, immediately consented ; 
 while, at the same time, I secured the assurance, that his 
 person should be safe, and himself allowed to return to 
 the shore at his pleasure. 
 
 After having reached the ship I had a conversation with 
 this Malay. He assured us that the present Rajah of 
 Kwala Batu had received the two thousand dollars, and 
 that he would never take the murderer. He also added, 
 that, in case of difficulties, he wished to come on board 
 with his family and property. 
 
 " And what would you do with yourself, after we shall 
 have destroyed the town, " he was asked, " should that 
 be our final purpose ?" 
 
 " I return, then, and be the Rajah," replied the wily 
 Malay ; " I get my men around me I new Rajah I be 
 friend to America." 
 
 From what Po Adam said of this Malay, after he had 
 returned to the shore, there is great probability that his 
 scheme might succeed, if he could get but a little assist- 
 ance from us. He offered his fort for our forces, and 
 proposed to meet our men on the beach, when they should 
 accompany him and his retainers to his fort, fight from it, 
 and defend his house. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 279 
 
 But, unlike the policy of other nations, ours is not to 
 interfere with the petty contentions, or larger broils of a 
 different people. It would be an easy thing for the Amer- 
 icans to set up a Rajah here, and maintain him, at a little 
 expense, in his position, for our advantage. But such a 
 course would deviate from our fixed policy as a nation, 
 and eventuate, as a deviation from our independent and 
 neutral course, to the injury of the greatest good of our 
 Government. And yet, when one looks upon this beau- 
 tiful island, as it now lies before us in its luxuriant green, 
 the mountain-side entirely embowered in beautiful and 
 full foliage of the trees and vegetation, without a barren 
 spot, one could wish it were in the hands of an American 
 colony, and its resources developed by American industry. 
 But our home and land are far beyond these waters, and 
 there are happiness and riches enough for us at home, if 
 we will but husband them, with gratitude to the God who 
 has given us so goodly a heritage. Po Nyah-heit was 
 assured, that if he came aboard the Columbia with his 
 family, he would be permitted to remain in safety during 
 any difficulties that were being adjusted between our ships 
 and the town of Kwala Batu, without any promise of 
 protection or discrimination as to localities or persons on 
 shore. No other course could well have been pursued 
 with this man, as he was no further known than he had 
 made himself to be during the day ; and while there ap- 
 peared to be honesty and certainly ambition in his make 
 and purposes, there might, for all we knew, be deep 
 treachery, though I believed otherwise. 
 
 Po Nyah-heit left the ship, as he had been promised he 
 should, at the hour he wished, which was near sunset. 
 
 In the evening Po Adam was at the mess-table, while 
 one of the Lieutenants read the account given of his gen- 
 erous action towards the part of the crew of the Friend- 
 ship, who were not massacred. To him they gave the 
 credit of contributing to their safety, if he was not the 
 means of preserving their lives. 
 
 Po seems to be desirous of having all the towns along 
 the coast blown sky high. He has lost his own fort by 
 some crook of a mightier hand, or by mightier men than 
 he. And, doubtless, he would be very grateful to the 
 
280 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Commodore, would he restore it to him again. And were 
 it a consistent movement of our ships, perhaps Po Adam 
 deserves this, and much more at our hands. His house is 
 at Soo-Soo, which is in sight of our ships, some four or 
 six miles east of Kwala Batu. 
 
 " Do you like the Soo-Soo people, Po 1" 
 
 " Me like them here," answered the wily Malay, put- 
 ting his finger upon his lips, " but no like them here," 
 laying his spread hands upon his breast. 
 
 " But, Po, if there is much property in Kwala Batu, and 
 the Rajah would preserve his houses, do you think he 
 would rather pay up the two thousand dollars than have 
 his place knocked down ?" 
 
 " Rajah is fool. He give up murderer he give mo- 
 ney then he save pepper-trade. What can Rajah do 
 with pepper no ships come and buy ? He no eat pep- 
 per. He give up murderer, he have plenty friends in 
 America they come and buy pepper. But he will no 
 give up Malay u he fool he d n rascal he buffalo !" 
 
 " Why, Po, we think the Rajah a very bad man, but do 
 not call him by one of those names you have used." 
 
 Po understood the allusion, and repeated, " He bad 
 man he no give up money me thought he sincere yes- 
 terday, no sincere to-day he no send fifty men after 
 Malayu. I Rajah, I catch the man Rajah no sincere 
 he fool he d , he one buffalo." 
 
 Po now had more than one to join him in a round laugh, 
 at the flow of his Malay wit. 
 
 I say Malay wit. Po, however, says that he was born 
 at Achin, and has spent twenty-five years on the coast in 
 this region. He is now about fifty years of age, has a 
 very good face, an aquiline nose, and, at times, has a 
 great deal of vivacity in speech. With his mimic atti- 
 tudes, to render himself more readily understood in Eng- 
 lish, he often becomes quite amusing. 
 
 CANNONADING OF KWALA BATU. 
 
 All expectation of gaining any satisfactory action from 
 the Rajah of Kwala Batu being given up, the Columbia 
 weighed anchors to take a nearer position to the town, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 281 
 
 that her guns might be brought to bear upon the forts and 
 houses with the greatest effect. Having reached the de- 
 sired position, a spring hawser brought our broadside to 
 bear, at discretion, upon the forts and town. 
 
 The John Adams was now seen standing in to take 
 her place yet nearer to the shore and a little on our lar- 
 board quarter. 
 
 All things were now ready for cannonading the forts 
 and town. We had been moored in this threatening po- 
 sition for two or three hours. But no boat was seen put- 
 ting off from the shore, or any sign made by the Rajah 
 that he intended to offer any satisfaction for the injuries 
 he had sanctioned, or further explanation for his delay. 
 It was a moment of intensest interest on board. I am 
 sure there was no one who did not wish that the Rajah 
 should pursue the course of justice, and yield the mur- 
 derer and the property, which was deemed to be alto- 
 gether within his power to do, and thus save himself from 
 the demonstration of our just displeasure, which could not 
 long be delayed, to the expected demolishing of his forts 
 and town. 
 
 And I am sure that no one more intensely desired this 
 course to be pursued than our Commodore, who had now 
 used every means to induce the Rajah to act the part of 
 a just chief, and what was believed to be the wishes of 
 many of his men. The moment, however, had arrived 
 when further delay on our part would have been treachery 
 to the lives of our own countrymen, and a conniving at 
 the crimes of robbery and murder. 
 
 Three taps upon the drum started every man in the 
 ship, as if the wing of some unseen spirit had suddenly 
 swept over each one's face ; and the music, the next in- 
 stant, beat the thrilling summons to quarters. Each man, 
 before a minute was passed, was in his place, ready to do 
 his superior's bidding, to throw destruction and devasta- 
 tion into the forts and town, which lay but a few cables' 
 length in the distance from us. The thrilling excitement 
 now felt was not from fear, for there was nothing to be 
 apprehended, though it was expected that the Rajah's 
 forts might open upon us. But it was the idea, that our 
 own shot would be sending these miserable people into 
 
 24* 
 
282 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 another world, and crumbling upon their heads the dwell- 
 ings they inhabited. 
 
 The guns in a moment were cleared for action the 
 tompions out, the shot, grape, canister, and wadding ar- 
 ranged, the matches in readiness and now, the men, in 
 proibundest silence, stood waiting the order to fire ! But 
 a few rolls of the music now beat the retreat ; and all, save 
 the excited hearts of the crew, and the guns in readiness 
 for an engagement, were again as if we had never dreamed 
 of treacherous falsehood, infamous robbery, and murder- 
 ous Malays. 
 
 An hour or more had passed. The officers were nearly 
 finishing their dessert when the beat to quarters again 
 rolled through the ship. It was known that now there 
 would be no longer delay. The different forts had been 
 pointed out, as objects towards which the guns were to be 
 directed. The firing commenced. It was an interesting 
 sight. The first shot from the Columbia boomed over the 
 water, and shivered to pieces one of the trees which em- 
 bowered the fortification, and in their thick and distinct 
 cluster, entirely concealed the fort. A second shot, directed 
 from another division towards another fortification, scat- 
 tered every Malay who had come to the beach, and be- 
 neath a number of bamboo houses, had trusted to the display 
 of a white handkerchief, waving low in the gentle breeze, 
 for their protection. The Rajah's most western fort in- 
 stantly opened upon the Columbia the shot striking a few 
 fathoms from the ship. The divisions continued their fire 
 from the frigate, riddling the thick foliage in which the 
 fortifications were concealed, and silencing the Rajah's fort 
 after it had sent three shots, one of which fell just beneath 
 our dolphin-striker. 
 
 The John Adams, at the same time, opened her guns upon 
 a fort on the east of the town, and beyond the little river 
 which separates it from the principal bazaars. The 
 clouds of smoke curled from her side, as the thunder of 
 her cannonades, in the repeated concussions on the vibra- 
 ting air, roared loud and long; while the shots now buried 
 themselves in the fort, or occasionally, by a ricochet upon 
 the water, struck again upon the beach, and threw up, in 
 mid-air, their clouds of sand, and uprooted shrubs and 
 trees. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 283 
 
 The cannonading continued from both ships for nearly 
 a half hour, when the order was given to cease firing. 
 
 CHRISTMAS IN THE TROPICS. 
 
 There are periods in time, that come upon us on their 
 annual occurrence, with an irresistible power of associa- 
 tion. And they are happy or grievous, as our experience 
 may have been, as those periods have rolled round, on their 
 yearly returns. To-day is Christmas. And how imme- 
 diately is the inquiry raised, "Where was I last Christmas? 
 And whom was I with ?" And how much there is in the 
 answers, as the mind runs over the objects and their asso- 
 ciations, which are recalled in connection with that day ! 
 To me, as I go back to the Christmas day, one year from 
 this, all things come back with a freshness, as if I were 
 again standing amid those scenes, so far over the sea, and 
 among friends rendered yet more dear, by the distance 
 which intervenes and the time we have measured since we 
 parted. I remember the clear day that sent forth its beams 
 from a clear sun, but with little warmth in his rays. I 
 remember the church wreathed and festooned, and inly em- 
 bowered with evergreens ; and the pulpit where I stood, 
 and the fixed eyes of the people as they listened to the 
 word of God, and the altar around which they gathered. 
 And I remember the young and endeared sister, so lately 
 attired in her dress of deep mourning, and like a dove 
 whose companion had been smitten from her side by an 
 arrow, seemed an object of lonely loveliness, amid a con- 
 
 fregation of lighter robes and lighter hearts. And beside 
 er sat a man of years, who had but a few days before 
 put his lip upon the cold and marble brow of the child he 
 cherished and loved as but few fathers love, ere that child 
 was borne to her cold grave, to come no more, at the 
 Christmas gathering, around the family table, and to min- 
 gle in the family's domestic circle. And I remember the 
 letter, which, on that day and at that place, was handed 
 me, which invited me to visit scenes in other nations, and 
 which determined me to start on the course that has brought 
 me to spend this Christmas day nearly half way around 
 the world from the spot where I then was standing, and 
 from the friends with whom I then communed. 
 
284 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 And to-day, instead of that neat temple, so tastefully 
 festooned and decorated in evergreens, on the joyous birth- 
 day of the Redeemer of the world, and in a clime where 
 the December gale bears on its wing a freezing and bra- 
 cing air, and the snow-storm spreads the wide folds of its 
 gorgeous ermine mantle over mountain and meadow, for- 
 est and fern, and the ice bridges span the rivers in their 
 flow, I now look abroad from an ocean-temple, floating 
 in the warm seas of a torrid clime. And before me lies 
 one of nature's sublimest, loveliest evergreen mountains, 
 curving its beautiful outline of embowering trees on an 
 horizon that smiles blandly and serene, as the warmer 
 than the summer gale sweeps along the thick foliage of 
 the green mountain-side of the pepper Isle. And to-day, 
 our still ship slumbers on the smootli bosom of the lovely 
 bay, over which our guns yesterday were throwing their 
 intonations of displeasure and rebuke, into the ears of the 
 abettors and protectors of the robber and the murderer. 
 But, while the thunders of those guns have ceased, the 
 eternal roar of the surf sleeps not, as the undulating wave 
 breaks, in its perpetual rim of cascading foam, along the 
 extended beach of gold. I have always loved this roar of 
 ocean-wave this loud murmur of the sea-surge, breaking 
 on the golden beach. It ever reminds me of the voice of 
 Niagara, in her perpetual worship of the Eternal. And 
 though the voice of man were lost, were he to join in the 
 loud chant, yet the one emotion that swells the bosom of 
 the worshipper, as he stands upon the sea-shore, is sublimer 
 far than the loudest roar of mighty waters. But, ye friends, 
 who to-day are more than ten thousand miles away, in the 
 happy land of the west, " a merry, happy Christmas to ye 
 all." And O, that I could hear your response, and greet 
 you for one hour on this hallowed day, at your festive and 
 happy board. I know that your thoughts this day are 
 often with me, and that for me your prayers, in kindness, 
 as certainly ascend. And I but may God bless ye all. 
 
 SAILING FOR MUCKIE. 
 
 As the light began to stream upon the mountain this 
 morning, the 28th, our anchors had been weighed and we 
 were starting off from Kwala Batu, for Muckie. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 285 
 
 Yesterday, while flags were flying on shore, and some 
 communications passed between the Commodore and the 
 Rajahs, Po Kwala, at whose fort the John Adams partic- 
 ularly directed her shot, sued for peace : " He no have the 
 money he no have any thing to do with the robbery he 
 wish to be friends." Po Kwala is a near connection, by 
 marriage, of Po Nyah-heit, at whose fort, also, a white flag 
 was flying. Po Nyah-heit has previously been alluded to ; 
 and was desirous of joining his men with ours and Po Kwa- 
 la's, the Pedir Rajah of Kwala Batu, to fight Po Chute- 
 Abdullah, the principal or Achin Rajah of Kwala Batu.* 
 But while no confidence, it was thought, should be placed 
 in these professions, Po Nyah-heit's course saved his fort 
 from being fired into, unless one of the first shots may have 
 reached it by mistake. 
 
 The Achin Rajah, it is said, sent us, as his last commu- 
 nication, that " he had endeavored to take the murderer, 
 but was unable he had not gotten the money we had 
 fired into his town and killed his men their relatives had 
 called upon him for vengeance and if we wanted to have 
 his life also, we must come on shore and take it." The 
 sequel will show that he was a little more modest at a later 
 hour. 
 
 After stretching along down the coast from Kwala Batu, 
 we have come to anchor within a few cables' length of 
 the town of Muckie. While the mountain scenery was 
 deemed exquisite at Kwala Batu blending the beautiful 
 of the thick foliage of the embowered mountain- side with 
 the sublimity of its height, and the graceful clouds laying 
 their soft folds here and there upon its tops the scenery 
 now before us is additionally picturesque and equally sub- 
 lime, and even yet more beautiful. There is a greater 
 space of cultivated field on the mountain-slant, which ex- 
 hibits every variety of green, from the lightest yellow, 
 through every shade of sea and bottle and emerald, and 
 
 * There are two Rajahs at Kwala Batu one, Po Chute-Abdullah, 
 having the rule over the men from Achin ; the other, Po Kwala, 
 called the Pedir Rajah, holding the power over the Pedir men. 
 They divide the revenue of the port between them, and are not al- 
 ways good friends of each other. 
 
286 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 yet deeper green. Then comes the wide and high-up 
 slant of the original forest, spreading from the top of the 
 high mountain, until its rim comes down to the edge of 
 the cultivated fields on the hill-side, where the green pep- 
 per vines are seen growing in their richness and beauty.* 
 
 The town of Muckie, itself, is spread out on a little 
 peninsula or point, with groves of cocoa-nut trees embow- 
 ering the houses ; and the fort furthest out on the point, 
 for the defence of the town, is equally shaded by these 
 trees in Asiatic costume, deep, and spreading, and peculiar. 
 
 A boat from the Columbia is now shoving off from the 
 ship, bearing Captain Wyman, of the John Adams, to hold 
 a communication with the Rajah of the town. Two hun- 
 dred natives are lining the shores, at the landing-place of 
 the town, waiting this boat, which is attended by two of the 
 cutters, whose crews are armed with cutlasses and pistols, 
 that in case of manifestations of enmity or treachery, they 
 may form a force sufficient to defend the boats and the 
 persons of the officers. 
 
 The Rajahs manifested great frankness in this first inter- 
 view ; and the next morning Lieutenant Turner was sent 
 on shore, at an early hour of the morning, for the purpose 
 of bringing off the Rajahs to the ship, agreeably to the ex- 
 pectation they had raised in the minds of those officers 
 who had held the talk with them, that they would willingly 
 come. But the Commodore's invitation to them to visit 
 the ship was finally declined, after a long talk among them- 
 selves, and evidently on the ground that they feared, if 
 once on board, they would be retained until the restitution 
 of the money and the surrender of the murderers suppo- 
 sed to be at Muckie. And in their way of estimating 
 things, they doubtless also considered that their lives 
 would be endangered. They therefore declined, altogeth- 
 er, a visit to the ships ; and Lieutenant Turner expressed 
 himself, on his return, fully persuaded that no satisfaction 
 could be derived from these people. The finesse of yes- 
 terday was to gain delay in any attack that might be de- 
 signed upon the place. It was further believed, and affirm- 
 ed positively by Po Adam, that Lubby Sammon, a man 
 
 * See Frontispiece. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 287 
 
 of considerable influence here and a particular friend of 
 the chief Rajah of Muckie, was the instigator of the at- 
 tack upon the Eclipse ; that he induced Luhby Yusuf to 
 select his men, and shared a great part of the booty. This 
 same man is now at Muckie, and will not be given up by 
 the Rajah. The whole testimony, that can be relied on, 
 goes to implicate the Rajah, here, as one of the chief abet- 
 tors of the murder and the robbery. But as he refuses to 
 make any satisfaction, further than denying any participa- 
 tion in the crime, in the face of evidence which is suppo- 
 sed to be against him, all further hope of getting the mur- 
 derers or the money is resigned. The infliction of what 
 is believed to be a just retribution, therefore, only remains 
 for the action of our ships, in their attack upon the town, 
 by which our power may be demonstrated, and the na- 
 tives be further assured that we have a force to protect 
 our commerce ; and that it is our purpose to inflict a pun- 
 ishment upon those who shield the murderers of our citi- 
 zens abroad, or who share in the plunder from our ships. 
 For making this demonstration of our ability and deter- 
 minations, the two ships are to be hauled nearer in to the 
 town. And if no deputation shall be sent off during the 
 morning of to-morrow, the last die will have been thrown, 
 to decide the course of our ships. The intention of the 
 squadron is entirely understood by the Malays on shore, 
 with the motives of its threatened action. 
 
 NEWS FROM HOME. ASSOCIATION. 
 
 While the negotiations with the natives were being 
 carried on during the preceding day, and our ships were 
 resting in inaction, with the evergreen mountain-scene 
 before us and the wide ocean extending far away to the 
 south and west, I spent the hours in reading newspapers 
 from the home we have left so many degrees behind us. 
 A large roll of papers has been forwarded to us from Cap- 
 tain Silver, of the ship Sumatra, which arrived on the 
 coast a few days since ; and presuming that we were yet 
 at Kwala Batu, he despatched a native, in his boat, to 
 convey this rich treat to us. The boat found us at Muckie, 
 having reached Kwala Batu just as we were standing 
 
288 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 out from that place. We record this act of Captain S., 
 with many thanks for the pleasure he contributed thus to 
 give us. The news brought us intelligence, four months 
 later than our leaving the United States. Besides the pa- 
 pers from New York, the residence of most of my friends, 
 one came from a neighborhood within a few miles of my 
 country home. It seemed as if some mystic hand, unseen, 
 but ever ready to serve me with acts of kindness, had 
 put this sheet, nicely folded, only for myself, among the 
 medley-papers of the large bundle which was conveyed 
 to us. And could all the secrets be told by which that 
 same folio sheet came to me, on the western coast of the 
 isle of Samatra, perhaps we should be more ready to be- 
 lieve in the agencies of unseen powers than the credulities 
 of most of us usually will allow. 
 
 And how powerful is association, however awakened ! 
 It is a beautiful anecdote, told of a boat's crew of those 
 who attended Captain Cook around the world. They had 
 landed upon an island, and entered a log-cabin. A relic 
 of a spoon, with half its handle gone, met their eye, with 
 the word LONDON stamped on the remaining part of it. 
 This single word so affected them, in their distance and 
 long wanderings from their native land, that it threw them 
 all into tears, as the floods of associations crowded into 
 their minds. 
 
 Similar is the effect of a letter, even before the seal has 
 been broken, if we recognise, in its address, the handw r ri- 
 ting of one we love. And how we cherish a braid of hair, 
 which has been given us, with the smiles of a friend, as a 
 thing that shall revive agreeable remembrances ! And who 
 has not in his choice repository of trifles a thousand and 
 one mementoes of emotions and kind words and loved re- 
 collections of persons and things ? It is this element of our 
 being affected by the force of association, which makes us 
 civilized and kind beings, and renders life capable of being 
 lived over more than once. I have a little essence bottle 
 will one of my readers remember it which I would not 
 part with for the choicest pearl that ever came from the 
 waters of Bahrien. I have a little painting, representing 
 two placid lambs, and called "peace" For what would I 
 part with this 1 She is dead who gave it. And they have 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 289 
 
 told me that she died with bright and consistent hopes of 
 entering, and for ever ranging the fields, where no discord 
 comes, where perpetual peace reigns. And I have a gold 
 pencil case, there is a strange power in that inanimate 
 token, but I will not speak of that. And I have it is 
 not a lock of hair, it is a single thread, which, by itself, I 
 saw floating on the pure brow of a young friend, who did 
 not think me impertinent as I wound it around my finger 
 and plucked it from among its associates as a truant thing 
 that was playing in the breeze, as if it alone were entitled 
 to the favor of the evening zephyr, as that zephyr swept, 
 with the refreshing purity of a country air, through the 
 piazza. And she afterwards wound it around her own 
 delicate fingers, as a plaything ; and in the leisure, and 
 luxury, and listlessness of the calm and lovely summer- 
 evening hour, we took a pencil and marked the date of the 
 day on a blank paper ; and she scribbled her name upon 
 it ; and the little coil was placed within the envelope, 
 laughingly, as if it were all a trifling thing, amusing two 
 happy idlers, at the moment. And now. how at this mo- 
 ment that sweet face comes up in my vision, and seems 
 again to gaze in my own, confidingly, as then she looked ; 
 her speaking eye, laughing and floating in its soft light ; 
 her cheek tinged with a loveliness of carnation which 
 cannot be imitated, and which nature gives to whom she 
 wills, varying ever, now fading and now deepening with 
 every emotion expressed or felt ; and then her lip, inimi- 
 table, whether an hour of excitement deepened its carmine, 
 or a calmer hour left it in its rim of highly polished coral. 
 Once, I saw that lip as pale, as if the wing of the angel 
 of death had swept it. Should this page happen to meet 
 that eye, which even now I see in all its colors of blended 
 softness and tell-tale emotion, I wonder if she will remem- 
 ber that little coil of hair the envelope its date and 
 the enchanting scene and scenery of that summer-evening 
 hour ? And I have what have I not ? I have at least 
 a heart, that bounds over the sea to friends, when incident 
 or circumstance awakens the train of association, that flies 
 fleeter than on the wings of dove, or other bird, to the land 
 of the west. Thanks again to thee, Captain Silver, for 
 thy roll of newspapers. 
 
 25 
 
290 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 DESTRUCTION OP MUCKIE. 
 
 New-year day, January 1st, 1838. The first morn of 
 the new year has dawned upon us with a clear and pure 
 sky. The sea this morning is sleeping around us, with a 
 bosom bright as a silver mirror, and the roll of the sea- 
 surge has lulled, as if, like the calm before the tremblings 
 of the earthquake, it would smile on the purposes of de- 
 struction, which our ships this day seem designing to bear 
 into the town, which now lies almost within gun-shot of 
 our thirty-two and forty-two pounders. Both ships have 
 been kedged into their near positions this morning, it being 
 the purpose of the Commodore to cannonade the town, as 
 the only alternative of showing our displeasure, and to in- 
 flict due punishment upon a people whose Rajah refuses 
 to make any overtures, and against whom the evidence 
 is deemed to be conclusive, of his being culpable in the 
 murderous affair and robbery of the barque Eclipse. 
 
 The John Adams had early placed herself far into the 
 little bay, near the beach, and taken her position, with 
 her broadside sprung to bear upon the town. The Co- 
 lumbia soon reached her place opposite the principal fort 
 of the town, from which it was expected that there would 
 be some guns fired, but which the Columbia would soon 
 silence. The ships were so placed that their guns would 
 rake at pleasure the whole town, in its length and breadth. 
 
 No boat having reached the ship with any overture 
 during the morning, and the ships being in readiness to 
 execute their purposes of destruction, the order was passed 
 to fire. Our first shot was a signal for the John Adams 
 to open upon the town ; and the smoke and the flames 
 issued from her side the instant the report of our own long 
 thirty-two pounder broke the quiet still-calm of the sur- 
 rounding scene. 
 
 Every gun from the beautiful corvette seemed to know 
 its errand, as it sent its report distinctly back to the ear 
 when the bolt had struck, with its tremendous concussion, 
 and sent up its cloud of dust as it riddled the bamboo- 
 houses, or evolved a column of smoke, as if a hundred hot 
 irons had been applied to the external surface of the trees, 
 

 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 291 
 
 as the cannon ball rived their trunks, or, like a pruning- 
 hook, lopped their branches to the ground. 
 
 The Columbia continued her fire in an almost unbroken 
 succession of shots, directed particularly at the fort, which 
 was embowered in a grove of cocoa-nut and other trees; 
 and the long thirty-two and forty-two pound cannonades 
 spoke loud and long, and rebukingly, as their thunder 
 rolled over the bay, and the echoes repeated their voice 
 from the mountain-side, and died away in deeper and 
 later tones, far back in the defile of mountains, which 
 raise their double tier inwalling an almost concealed 
 ravine, as their ranges stretch south and west. The quick 
 reports of the raking shot came back distinct and clear, 
 as they drove their way into the fort, or sent up the clouds 
 of dust as they riddled the bamboo-houses, and scattered 
 the splinters of buildings of firmer materials, or, point- 
 blank, drove against the cocoa-nut tree, riving it in pieces, 
 and sending up a spiral column of smoke, as if it were 
 curling in a pure blue cloud above the green foliage from 
 a newly lighted fire of some mountain-side cabin. 
 
 The cannonading from both ships now continued, by 
 successions of round, and canister, and grape-shot the 
 heavy balls at times striking the water near the shore, and 
 by ricochet, apparently doing the greater destruction, as 
 crash succeeded crash, while the missile, in its lower pas- 
 sage, felt its way across the little peninsula through the 
 town, and finally went on its course of dalliance over the 
 sheet of water which washes the opposite of the point. 
 Again, some of the shot passing higher than the rest, 
 reached quite beyond the peninsula, to the mountain-side; 
 and their concussion with the hills sent back a reverbe- 
 rating crash, which told the desperate rencounter ; and 
 throughout the embowered town, as I gazed from the 
 mizzen-top, the falling bough and felled tree, and crack- 
 ing and smoking roof were seen, now together and now 
 separately, tumbling in their destruction, while, at other 
 times, a straggling shot sent up its cloud of sand, as it 
 bored its way into the beach, which throws its lip of gold 
 around the edge of the little bay, dividing the rim of the 
 light-blue of the sea-water from the deep-green of the 
 ever- verdant and luxuriant foliage of the trees that em- 
 
292 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 bower the whole line of the beautiful shore. And the 
 rolling volumes of smoke, driving from the heated mouths 
 of the cannon, were borne away by the sea-breeze, which 
 was now beginning to set gently in, and curled the piles 
 of smoke against the mountain-side, which stood in all its 
 beauty, untarnished and lovely, and smiling while all was 
 devastation and anger, and frowning displeasure, on the 
 level below. 
 
 A silence for a moment succeeded. The divisions for 
 landing were now called away. A few blasts upon the 
 clear bugle summoned the boats to be manned. A like 
 order was conveyed to the Adams ; while the large guns 
 of both ships were continuing their fire, as often as the 
 remaining men could load and discharge their pieces. 
 The starboard sides of the ships had been sprung to bear 
 upon the shore, and the boats were soon manned, as they 
 lay along the opposite side of the ships, unseen by any 
 enemy that might be awaiting the landing of any force 
 from the two vessels. The single guns continued to open 
 their fire upon the forts and town during the manning of 
 the boats. The launch and four cutters, crowded with 
 two hundred and fifty men, were now ready to shove off 
 from the frigate. They lingered a moment, with their 
 oars pointed ready to fall, while silence once more, and 
 profound, prevailed. The Commodore, from the side- 
 steps, contemplated the heroic little force, ready and eager 
 to peril life if dangers were to be encountered by the ex- 
 pedition. 
 
 " You have been desirous," he said, " to have an oppor- 
 tunity to land, on an expedition like the one which is now 
 offered you. 1 have the fullest confidence in your suc- 
 cess. Burn and destroy the town, and put to death all 
 men whom you may find bearing arms, and by no means 
 injure the unarmed and the yielding. Gentlemen," he 
 added to the officers, " I wish you success, and shall ex- 
 pect your return to the ship in one hour and a half." 
 
 The boats now pulled for the Adams, whose five boats 
 were as instantly directing their way to the beach, the 
 moment they saw our own put off from the side of the 
 Columbia. 
 
 It was a beautiful sight, those ten boats, crowded by 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 293 
 
 armed sailors and marines, their guns pointed with bayo- 
 nets, or their hands bristling with pikes, with pistols in 
 their belts and cutlasses at their sides. It would have 
 been no small force which could have successfully met 
 that gallant little band, flushed as they now were on their 
 virgin adventure in arms. Not one of those officers now 
 in those boats had engaged in the discharge of hostile 
 guns with destructive intent till within these few days, at 
 Kwala Batu, and now at Muckie. And the young pulse 
 of every officer was beating for the occasion, (however 
 much and deeply they regretted the necessity of the pres- 
 ent action,) to show their daring on an expedition, which 
 none could divine should not prove destructive to many 
 of their number. Yet, the silence of death which had 
 prevailed throughout the doomed town no gun having 
 been fired from the fort, nor man nor living soul been 
 seen during the bombardment, save one solitary being, 
 venturing beyond his fellows to gaze from his nook 
 gave encouragement that the thousand and probably more 
 inhabitants of the town had retired to the mountain ; and 
 the devastating shot the round, and canister, and grape, 
 which whistled in vengeance through the groves and 
 dwellings throughout the town, would have made it mad- 
 ness for one to have remained. And yet there might be 
 an ambush, although the ground was unfavorable, and 
 every thing contributing to favor the operation of our 
 forces. The guns of the two ships continued to throw 
 their shot to the left of the boats while pulling to the 
 shore, rendering it destructive for any foe to attempt to 
 oppose their landing. It was a wide strand on which the 
 divisions immediately formed, and without delay advanced, 
 in order, to the nearest point, to fire the buildings of the 
 town. 
 
 I had watched with excited interest the cannonading, 
 from the mizzen-top, looking far into the town, and over 
 it, to the adjacent bay, marking the falling of the boqghs, 
 the dust rising in clouds as the shot riddled the roofs and 
 sides of the buildings, or chafing the trunks of the cocoa- 
 nut and other trees, or riving them from their stems. 
 But the interest had now deepened in increased intensity. 
 The divisions were on their advance ; and if resistance 
 
 25* 
 
294 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WOULD. 
 
 were to be made, the moment had arrived. All was dis- 
 tinctly seen from the ship, left like a deserted hall, where 
 no step nor voice was longer heard, but where half a 
 thousand a moment before w r ere moving. I could dis- 
 tinguish the officers of the different divisions oh the beach ; 
 and the well-known voices of the First and Third Lieu- 
 tenants occasionally came over the little sheet of water, 
 and their orders distinctly understood. 
 
 Captain Wyman, of the Adams, commanded the expe- 
 dition. The divisions had advanced to the range of build- 
 ings stretching along the beach, with a diverging angle 
 from the water-side ; and the " pioneers," under Acting- 
 Master Jenkins, attached to the first division, were seen 
 making a wider breach in the nearest range of the bazaar- 
 houses ; while the marines, under Lieutenant Baker, ad- 
 vanced to the neighboring fort, to examine and carry it. 
 It had already been deserted. The guns were spiked, 
 and Lieutenant Pennock ordered temporarily to hold it. In 
 a moment more a smoke was seen curling up from the 
 adjacent building on the right of the effected passage- 
 way, now in its thin blue layers, than yet more dense, and 
 now the flame streamed high above the thatched roof, 
 declaring that the town was fired. Three or four more 
 buildings of the same line of houses, ranged with inter- 
 locking roofs, and forming a regular street in front in a 
 moment more sent up their separate sheets of flame ; and 
 the resistless element, kindled by port-fires and torches, 
 under the direction of Lieutenant Magruder, gave forth 
 the glare of lurid volumes, rising high and spreading wide, 
 and blending together their expanding sheet, which now 
 extended in rapid and destructive volumes down the line 
 of the bazaars. 
 
 Each division had been amply supplied with torches 
 and port-fires. From this point they took their different 
 courses to carry the remaining forts, and to fire the re- 
 maining sections of the town. Lieutenant Turk led on 
 his division through the northwestern range of houses, 
 applying the torch and the port-fire as he advanced, till 
 he reached a considerable stream of water, where a num- 
 ber of valuable proas, of larger and smaller dimensions, 
 were found moored and grounded. These and lesser 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 295 
 
 craft, in considerable numbers, and with their contents, 
 were soon sending up their complement of flames to 
 mingle in the general conflagration. The division was in 
 time, on its return, to assist in case of necessity in carry- 
 ing the fort on the point, to which the second division, 
 under Lieutenant Turner, after effecting the firing of its 
 portion of the town, with the other forces, had collected. 
 The fort, like the rest, had been deserted ; its guns were 
 soon spiked, thrown from their position, and the flames 
 were soon enveloping it. 
 
 The town now exhibited one scene of extended and 
 extending ruins. The light and dry bamboo buildings 
 burned like stubble ; and the better houses added intensity 
 and continuance to the devouring element. Flame min- 
 gled with flame, as the opposite currents converged. The 
 dark columns of smoke rolled high in the rarefied air, and 
 the long and seared leaf of the cocoa-nut, and the crimped 
 foliage of other thickly embowering trees, added to the 
 general mass of fuel ; Vhile the spiral sheet of fire wound 
 up the stem and shot through the branches and over- 
 topped the highest trees. The very heat seemed to reach 
 me in the mizzen-top, while the loud cracking of the 
 green foliage, and the splitting of the tall and thick bam- 
 boo, in the general roar and loud cracking of a vast and 
 extending conflagration, came distinctly and clear to the 
 ear. The forked and ambient and towering flames min- 
 gling with the dark and floating columns of smoke, now 
 possessed the entire town, and all was within the full view 
 of our ships. It was a scene of grandeur in destruction 
 to be looked at with profound interest, while pity, blended 
 with a sense of just displeasure, rose in the bosom, as the 
 eye contemplated the extended devastation. It was a 
 spectacle of grandeur as beheld in the day-time its 
 magnificence and sublimity could not be described as it 
 would have gleamed, in its terror and illumination, in the 
 night. 
 
 Such was the scene of the burning town, when the 
 different divisions had all gathered upon the point, in open 
 view of our frigate. The destruction was complete. The 
 bamboo-bazaars were melting fast to the ground the bet- 
 ter houses crumbling slower but surely, and with intenser 
 
296 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 heat. The five forts were in flames. Their guns, twenty- 
 one in number, had been spiked, and thrown from their 
 positions. The flames were yet in the tops of the tall 
 cocoa-nut, the towering and thick bamboo, and other trees. 
 It was a moment of triumph to this little host, having com- 
 pleted their work without the firing of a gun. And it 
 showed the daring and the determination of a gallant band 
 of American sailors on a foreign strand, ten thousand 
 miles from their home. And well they might exult, at the 
 moment, in view of the horrors which might have awaited 
 them. But hark ! the report of a cannon now boomed 
 loud on the air. It was one of the guns of the forts, 
 which had been spiked, and was discharged by the burn- 
 ing element which was now raging over it. Again, three 
 cheers came over the water, clear and distinct, as their 
 huzza and the swinging of their hats declared their com- 
 plete success. The bugle now sounded the retreat in the 
 tune of " Yankee Doodle," of olden and revolutionary as- 
 sociations ; and " Hail Columbia" attended their disembar- 
 kation. 
 
 The divisions reached their separate ships in safety ; 
 and their return was greeted with a cordial welcome. 
 The heart of the Commodore unbent itself in generous 
 feelings, as his solicitude was relieved by the return of 
 every man to the ship who had left it. 
 
 Captain Wyman, of the John Adams, an officer of 
 great coolness, judgment, and gallantry, led the expedition; 
 whose report to the Commodore, entering into the par- 
 ticulars of the action of the divisions, and specifying the 
 names of the officers from both ships, is here given. 
 
 " United States Ship John Adams, 
 Off Muckie, Island of Sumatra, Jan. 1st, 1839. 
 
 "SlR, 
 
 " In execution of your order to me for the entire de- 
 struction of the town of Muckie, I this day landed on the 
 beach at the head of the harbor, and about one hundred 
 and fifty yards from the town, with six divisions of small- 
 arms, men, and marines, consisting of three hundred and 
 twenty men, detailed for the service from the squadron 
 under your command. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 297 
 
 " Upon getting on shore, the different divisions were, 
 together with the marines, immediately formed by their 
 respective commanding officers, when all moved forward 
 for Muckie, which was entered about half-past twelve, in 
 the afternoon ; and by two o'clock the town was in our 
 possession. Five forts were taken without opposition, 
 and the guns found therein, to the number of twenty-one, 
 spiked and thrown over the parapet into the ditch the 
 forts set fire to and entirely demolished. The town, at 
 the same time, was set on fire in numerous places, which 
 was entirely consumed, together with all the property in 
 and near the place consisting of proas, coasting craft, 
 and boats of various sizes and descriptions, and the rig- 
 ging, yards, &c., &c., found on shore, belonging thereto, 
 were destroyed in the general conflagration ; and upon 
 embarking, nothing remained visible to the eye but the 
 ashes covering the smoking ruins, upon the site on which 
 the town of Muckie and the forts once stood. 
 
 " The zealous and gallant bearing of the officers, and 
 the efficient discipline manifested in the men by the prompt 
 and firm manner with which every order was obeyed, 
 met my unqualified approbation ; and I am certain, that, 
 had there been more for them to accomplish, more would 
 have been done ; and, in my opinion, it only required a 
 steady opposition on the part of our enemies, for which 
 they had ample resources, to have rendered this, to us, a 
 brilliant little affair. 
 
 " I am much gratified, however, to inform you, that the 
 object of our landing was completely attained, and the 
 several divisions, including the marines, returned on board 
 their respective ships without the loss of a man. 
 
 " I enclose herewith a list of the names of the officers 
 of the squadron, who landed with, and belonged to, the 
 expedition, and those who had charge of the boats on that 
 service. 
 
 " I have the honor to remain, sir, very respectfully, 
 " Your obedient servant, 
 
 T. W. WYMAN, 
 " Commander, and commanding officer of the expedition. 
 
 " To Commodore GEORGE C. READ, 
 
 Commanding East India Squadron, off Muckie." 
 
298 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Commander T. W. WYMAN, commanding the expedition. 
 
 Purser D. FAUNTLEROY, "1 
 
 Passed Mid. E. C. WARD, 
 
 Midshipman JOHN QUINCY ADAMS, > Aids to the Commander. 
 
 Midshipman J. M. WAINWRIGHT, 
 
 Midshipman ROBERT S. MORRIS, J 
 
 (From the Columbia.) 
 
 Lieutenant GEORGE A. MAGRUDER, First Lieutenant of the U. S. 
 
 Frigate Columbia, commanding the first division. 
 Lieutenant JOHN W. TURK, commanding the second division. 
 Lieutenant THOMAS TURNER, commanding the third division. 
 Acting Lieutenant A. M. PENNOCK, commanding the fourth division. 
 
 Acting Master E. JENKINS, 
 
 Passed Mid. D. Ross CRAWFORD, 
 
 Midshipmen C. St. G. NOLAND, 
 
 Attached to Divisions. 
 
 BARNEY, C. R. SMITH, C. SINCLER, 
 
 W. W. GREEN, J. L. TOOMER, 
 
 and FAUNTLEROY, 
 Passed Midshipman JAMES McCoRMiCK, } 
 
 Midshipman EDWARD DONALDSON, > In charge of the boats. 
 
 Midshipman FITZGERALD, ) 
 
 J. HENSHAW BELCHER, Prof, of Math., ) A . 
 BENJAMIN CROW, Sailmaker, J Actir ^ as marines ' 
 
 (From the John Adams.) 
 
 FIRST DIVISION. 
 
 Lieutenant E. R, THOMPSON, 
 
 Acting Lieutenant JOSEPH W. REVERE, 
 
 Midshipman JOHN N. HIXON. 
 
 SECOND DIVISION. 
 
 Lieutenant GEORGE MINOR, 
 Acting Master ROBERT B. PEGRAM, 
 Midshipman ROBERT H. WYMAN. 
 
 In charge of boats. 
 
 Midshipman JAMES H. SPOTTS, 
 Midshipman CHARLES T. CROCKER, 
 Midshipman WILLIAM K. THOMPSON. 
 
 soo-soo. 
 
 The ships warped out during the evening after the 
 burning of Muckie further into the offing, and at daylight 
 in the morning, weighed anchors for Soo-Soo. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 299 
 
 The ships reached Soo-Soo towards evening of the 
 same day of their sailing from the harbor of Muckie. 
 The boats commenced watering the next morning, and 
 hundreds of the natives gathered on the banks of the little 
 river, where our boats were filling their breakers, all 
 armed with their peculiar weapons. Our own men wear 
 a cutlass, and the boats' crews have their pistols and 
 muskets in readiness, in case of any treachery. The 
 marines are stationed to keep a space sufficiently clear 
 for the convenience of the watering party, and to prevent 
 any sudden attack upon our men. * 
 
 While our ships have been thus engaged for the two 
 last days, within sight of Kwala Batu and surrounded by 
 the natives of Soo-Soo, the priests of Soo-Soo have been 
 engaged with the Achin Rajah of Kwala Batu, and have 
 come from him with overtures to the Commodore. The 
 Rajah dreads a further bombardment of his town, after 
 we shall have filled up our water. The amount of the 
 overture is, to give Commodore Read a written obliga- 
 tion to pay to the owners of the ship Eclipse, one year 
 from this time, two thousand dollars, the amount said to 
 have been conveyed to Kwala Batu, by the pirate resid- 
 ing there, provided the Commodore will make peace with 
 him, and abstain from further annoying his town. Com- 
 modore Read accepts this overture of Po Chute Abdullah, 
 and has exchanged with him for his written obligation, 
 the following document : 
 
 "United States Frigate Columbia, 
 Off Soo-Soo, Jan. 5, 1839. 
 
 " I hereby certify that Po Chute Abdullah, the Rajah 
 of Kwala Batu, has given me a note of obligation to pay 
 the amount of two thousand dollars, in twelve months 
 from this date, to the commander of any vessel of war 
 or merchantman who may present the same when it be- 
 comes due. 
 
 " As this may appear to be a transaction of some pecu- 
 liarity, the following explanation may be necessary. 
 These are the facts: On the 23d of December, 1838, the 
 frigate Columbia and the sloop of war John Adams were 
 hauled as close in to the forts and town as they could be 
 
300 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 with safety, for the purpose of compelling, if practicable, 
 the delivering up of one of the pirates, who was residing 
 at Kwala Batu, and known to be one of the twelve men 
 engaged in the murder and robbery committed on board 
 the American ship Eclipse of Salem. Some time was 
 consumed in negotiation, and the Rajah of Kwala Batu 
 at first promised to deliver up the pirate, but afterwards 
 professed his inability to do so. I therefore deemed it 
 necessary to fire a few broadsides, to bring the Rajah, if 
 possible, to a sense of justice. This, however, at the mo- 
 ment, did not seem to have the desired effect. On my 
 return from Muckie, however, after the destruction of that 
 town, the Rajah of Kwala Batu was induced to pledge 
 himself, that if I would not return to his town for the 
 purpose of annoying him, he would pay the owners of the 
 ship Eclipse two thousand dollars, the amount said to 
 have been conveyed by the pirate to Kwala Batu, on de- 
 mand, one year from this date. 
 
 " GEORGE C. READ, 
 " Commanding U. S. Naval Force in the Indian Seas." 
 
 The Rajah of Kwala Batu has played a politic game ; 
 and we have done the best thing practicable for ourselves. 
 Po Chute Abdullah, doubtless, anticipates an increase of 
 trade by the destruction of Muckie, and will be able to 
 meet his engagement by the imposts he will lay upon the 
 pepper exported from his own place ; and the people thus 
 reimburse the money which the Rajah declares was dis- 
 tributed generally among them. The trade will continue 
 uninterrupted, and the people have gained the second les- 
 son, demonstrating that the American Government has 
 the power to punish, and is determined to inflict a chas- 
 tisement on the towns of this coast if their dealings hence- 
 forth be otherwise than honest and honorable in their 
 intercourse with our merchant vessels. 
 
 TALKS WITH THE RAJAHS OF SOO-SOO. 
 
 An interview with the Rajahs of Soo-Soo has been had 
 by the Commodore, on shore, since our arrival this second 
 time off Soo-Soo, and the town generally examined. And 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 301 
 
 though it appears that there can be no doubt that four of 
 the robbers and murderers have taken refuge at Soo-Soo, 
 and brought part of the money here, yet they will not be 
 given up, nor will the Rajahs be able to pay any amount 
 which may be demanded of them. To destroy their town 
 would be a thing practicable, if deemed best in the proba- 
 ble influence upon the people towards the American 
 traders on the coast. They, however, have had a demon- 
 stration of the power of our ships, and of our purposes 
 both at Kwala Batu and at Muckie, which are situated one 
 on each side of them ; and clemency shown to them must 
 be taken as such, in view of what they have seen inflicted 
 upon others, and what has been fearfully apprehended by 
 themselves. Besides, we owe, as it is supposed, some- 
 thing to Po Adam. Soo-Soo is his place of residence, and 
 it is believed that its destruction would involve him in 
 ruin, and probably expose his life to be taken on our leav- 
 ing the coast. The Rajahs at first promised fairly. But, 
 finding themselves unable to fulfil their engagements, they 
 retired mostly from the place, expecting it to be attacked 
 after the cannonading of Kwala Batu, notwithstanding 
 their white flags were waving in the tops of the bamboo 
 clusters immediately after our guns began to play upon 
 the forts of Kwala Batu. Contrary to their expectation, 
 however, we left for Muckie destroyed that place, and 
 returned to our present anchorage ground, nearer in to 
 the shore than when we first anchored off the neighbor- 
 ing town of Kwala Batu. 
 
 It is known that the Rajahs of Soo-Soo, and most of 
 the people, have again returned to their houses. " The 
 women," Po Adam says, " cry, and the men too when the 
 big ships come again." But the Rajahs professed the 
 continuance of their friendship have suffered the party to 
 water without molesting them, while one or two hundred 
 of their armed men have been collected on the beach 
 nearly the whole three days during which our boats have 
 been bringing off water to the ships. 
 
 To-day, according to previous arrangement, the Com- 
 modore and Captain Wyman, whom I accompanied, went 
 to meet the Rajahs. There are four in number, having 
 
 26 
 
302 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 authority in the town ; and they were to be gathered at 
 Po Adam's house. 
 
 The Commodore's gig led the way around a reef of 
 coral rocks, over which the breakers dash their white 
 foam ; and followed by Captain Wyman's boat, we en- 
 tered over a sand-bar into the mouth of a beautiful little 
 stream, which empties into the sea, as most of the rivers 
 of the island do, by a curve, when they have nearly reach- 
 ed the beach. The surf of the sea produces an embank- 
 ment, which forces the rivulet to course for a short distance 
 parallel with the sea-shore ; but ere long the stream, glid- 
 ing obliquely and silverly along, mingles its tide from the 
 green mountains with the deep waters of the blue seas. 
 Our men sprang from the boat as we struck the bar, and 
 bore it steadily forward as a few inrolling breakers swept 
 us over the shoal without delay or danger ; and then we 
 glided up the little sylvan way of the narrow stream some 
 yards to a landing point, on the grounds of Po Adam. 
 
 Could an American of the north have been conveyed 
 suddenly from his home and placed where we stood as we 
 stepped from the boat, he would have been in ecstasy, if 
 he had any susceptibility to the beauty of nature. The 
 stream was almost embowered by the leaves of the palm, 
 graceful and fan-like, curving over their half circle of gor- 
 geous foliage in their place, and blending with the tall 
 trunks of the cocoa-nut tree, spreading its top like an um- 
 brella upon a pole, but Asiatic and picturesque beyond 
 description in its effect ; while the bay-tree, and the ba- 
 nana, and the forest giant, and their lesser and more grace- 
 ful associates, with the tall and luxurious bamboo every- 
 where softening the scene, surrounded us. 
 
 As our boat came suddenly to the green bank of this 
 little stream, we surprised one of Po Adam's young wives, 
 with her shawl thrown from off her shoulders, leaving her 
 breast and gracefully curved amber arms uncovered, while 
 she seemed like some water nymph just escaping from 
 the stream where she had been bathing. A small dish of 
 fish nicely dressed declared the errand of the Naiad. She 
 was quite pretty, with the exception of the nose a feature, 
 which the Malays insist on flattening. A nose as wide 
 as it is long is regarded by them as nearly the perfection 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 303 
 
 of beauty, as it is a perfect square. But nature, in this 
 instance of Po Adam's youngest espoused, resolved not 
 to resign all her rights of sovereignty ; and in some other 
 instances I have seen native women of this place who 
 possessed a share of feminine softness, and that species 
 of beauty which consists in the rotund Egyptian style of 
 feature. 
 
 A narrow path led us through a beautiful green field 
 of rice, surrounded by a range of banana-trees, contrast- 
 ing with their light yellow green and wide-spreading leaves, 
 with the deeper green of the bay and cocoa-nut and the 
 palm. We reached the house of Po Adam, surrounded 
 by a bamboo fence, which included several other buildings 
 occupied by his men and friends. 
 
 We drank of tke cocoa-nuts, which were brought us ; 
 and soon two of the Rajahs, the principal two of the place, 
 were present, with their seals, ready to place their impres- 
 sions to the following document, which had been previous- 
 ly prepared. 
 
 AGREEMENT OF THE RAJAHS. 
 
 " WE THE RAJAHS OF Soo-Soo, for ourselves and the 
 inhabitants of Soo-Soo on the west coast of Sumatra, sen- 
 sibly affected by the clemency practised towards us, on the 
 late visit of the frigate Columbia and the John Adams, do 
 hereby pledge ourselves to suffer no American vessel to be 
 molested hereafter, and by all means in our power to pre- 
 vent all wicked designs for annoying or in any way injur- 
 ing them. 
 
 " Should we ever hear of any plan being laid for the 
 capture of an American vessel, we engage, forthwith, to 
 give notice of the same to the commander or whoever 
 may be on board said vessel, in time for them to prepare 
 themselves for the defence of their lives and the protection 
 of their property. 
 
 " And we do further pledge ourselves, that in case any 
 piratical expedition should at any time hereafter be at- 
 tempted, or successful plunder be committed upon any 
 American vessel, and the plunderers should take refuge 
 amongst us, we will secure their persons and the property 
 
304 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 taken, in the best manner we can, and keep them until 
 they can be delivered to the first vessel of war of the United 
 States of America which shall arrive on the coast, or to 
 any merchantman who shall be willing to take them to the 
 United States for their trial. But we profess our utter ina- 
 bility to comply with the demand for the delivering up of 
 the pirates, and the property belonging to the ship Eclipse 
 the pirates having fled from the place the moment it 
 was known that the United States ships of war had come 
 to Soo-Soo, for the purpose of securing them. 
 
 " In short, we promise to do all that lies in our power 
 to cultivate the friendship of the United States, which we 
 know to be our interest to preserve, and which we here 
 solemnly pledge ourselves, henceforth, in every way, to en- 
 deavor to maintain. 
 
 "In testimony of these our desires and our solemn 
 pledges, we hereto affix our several signatures and seals. 
 
 " DATU BUGAH, 
 " DATU BUGENAH, 
 " DATU MODAH, 
 " DATU UMPATE. 
 
 " To Commodore George C. Read, commanding the American ships 
 cf war, off Soo-Soo, January 8th, 1839." 
 
 The seals of the Rajahs were made of brass, cut with 
 Arabic characters. The surface of the stamp, for such 
 was its character, being an engraved brass plate, attached 
 to a wooden handle, was now held over the flame of a 
 cocoa-nut oil lamp, until the lamp-black, or the smoke of 
 the lamp had well coated the surface of the seal, and the 
 flame had heated it for the impression. One of the Rajahs, 
 with a small weapon from his girdle, split a green beetel- 
 nut ; and with half of it the paper was moistened for the 
 impression of the heated and blackened stamp. The heat- 
 ed seal was then applied, and left its dark ground on the 
 sheet, with the Arabic letters containing the name of the 
 Rajah in a relief of white. 
 
 The Rajahs, at the time, seemed to be impressed with 
 the solemnity of the transaction ; but whether it will result 
 in any restraint upon themselves or people, after our de- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 305 
 
 parture from the coast, remains a problem which a short 
 time only can evolve. 
 
 Two of the four Rajahs of Soo-Soo not being present 
 when the principal ones affixed their seals to the preced- 
 ing paper, it was proposed that the names of the other 
 two should be appended to the instrument the succeeding 
 day, in the presence of the Rajahs who had already signed 
 it ; and, accordingly, another interview for this purpose 
 was fixed upon, to take place the succeeding morning. 
 
 RAMBLE. 
 
 I took a stroll from Po Adam's residence, embowered 
 in all the variety of Asiatic fruit-trees, through several ad- 
 jacent bamboo gates and bamboo enclosures, inwalling a 
 cluster of some four or five houses in each area, alike 
 shaded by the clustering trees. There are no streets 
 through the town, but by-paths, to be threaded only by foot 
 passengers neither horses nor other animals being used 
 here, either for the purpose of burden or tillage. While 
 passing through one of these enclosures, I suddenly came 
 upon a very respectable looking Malay, who was dandling 
 in his arms an infant of two or three months of age, with 
 its mother near. I felt that I had a secret to the hearts, 
 even of savages, if such were before me, where they felt 
 as much pleasure as these Malays exhibited in their coun- 
 tenances as they petted this rather interesting little urchin. 
 They were parents, and this was their child. I approached 
 them by surprise, and taking a vest button, with an eagle 
 stamped upon it, I placed it to the neck of the little child, 
 indicating that the mother, with a string, should make a 
 necklace of it for the piccaninny. The mother received 
 it with a mother's smile ; and whistling kindly myself, as 
 well as I knew how, (I have always abominated whistlers 
 as invariably ill-bred men,) to please the little chubby, I 
 passed on. But that would not do. The next moment 
 I was seized by the arm, and I must wait a moment, as my 
 captor indicated ; and I had only turned, when I perceived 
 this Malay mother waving from the verandah of the house, 
 into which she had suddenly ascended by a step-ladder, a 
 bundle of white grass, and I was begged by the movement 
 
 26* 
 
306 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to accept it. I declined taking it, when the disappointed 
 woman, in an instant, waved another and larger bundle 
 from above me, with a kind smile that said, I would give 
 you a more valuable present did we possess it. I at once 
 recollected myself, and took two threads from the bundle, 
 and winding it carefully, put it into my pocket, assuring 
 them that this was enough as a specimen, and I would keep 
 it, as a remembrance of the little Malayu and his parents. 
 As I made another attempt to leave the grounds, they still 
 insisted that I must delay, to take some cocoa-nuts. I had 
 seen one of their slaves rush from the gate a moment 
 before, and he now had returned with a large monkey ; 
 a line of great length being, in a small coil, attached to 
 him. The monkey knew his business better than I could 
 conjecture it, as the next moment he was seen ascending 
 an immensely tall cocoa-nut tree, on the stem of which, 
 fifty feet up, not a branch put out, and from the top of 
 which the gracefully bending leaves, with their long stems, 
 together formed an umbrella, as it were, to keep the water 
 of the cocoa-nuts, which were clustering about the top of 
 the trunk, from boiling in the hot sun, and preserving it 
 cool and refreshing, to quench the thirst of the heated na- 
 tive. 
 
 Jacko was directed on which long stem of the branch- 
 ing leaf he should place himself, and the six cocoa-nuts he 
 must select. The animal accomplished the whole of the 
 command in a few moments, and the cocoa-nuts fell from 
 the top. These were opened for me, and I partook of the 
 acceptable beverage. 
 
 " Good-by, good-by. Malayu," I said, and again attempt- 
 ed to make my escape, but the kind hearts of this Ma 1 ay 
 couple begged that I would let the sailor who was accom- 
 panying me take for me a handsome game-cock, which 
 had* been caught in these few minutes, and which a slave 
 was now holding for my acceptance. I begged that I 
 might be excused, as the hour was already passed when I 
 was to be with the Rajahs, and I would come and see them 
 again to-morrow. 
 
 " Come, true," said the Malay, " and I will have a chi- 
 nam shell for you." 
 
 The succeeding morning, agreeably to the appointment, 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 307 
 
 the four Rajahs were assembled, and the names of the 
 other two were affixed to the letter of obligation, which they 
 had mutually entered into, and addressed, as already cop- 
 ied, to Commodore Read. I accompanied Captain Wyman 
 to the shore to witness the completion of this instrument. 
 We then wandered through the town, the inhabitants hav- 
 ing partially recovered from their apprehensions, though 
 the women and the young children generally made the 
 quickest speed possible to reach the verandahs of their 
 bamboo houses as we passed. The Rajahs expressed a 
 desire to visit the ship, and were invited to do so. 
 
 " Soo-Soo safe now," was added in their own style of a 
 mongrel English ; " we no fight now we friends ;" and, 
 with an amicable shake of the hand and the drinking of 
 the delicious water from the fresh cocoa-nuts, ended the 
 interview. 
 
 TALK WITH PO KWALA. 
 
 Pulau Kayu is a fort which is situated on the point inter- 
 mediate between Kwala Batu and Soo-Soo, little less than 
 three miles distant from each, and the nearest point of land 
 to our ships, as they are now moored a mile distant from 
 the shore. 
 
 Po Adam formerly resided here, and gave us to suppose 
 that he had the best right to the fort still, and is quite desirous 
 that the Commodore should restore it to him. There would 
 be no hesitation on the subject, could it be ascertained that 
 his claims are just. But the representations of others de- 
 clare that Po Adam always held Pulau Kayu as a tenant 
 at will, and was displaced by the present Rajah or his 
 father, in consequence of some commercial misunderstand- 
 ing between him and Po Adam. The present Rajah of the 
 place is Taku Yah-Housin, and a relative of Po Kwala, 
 the Pedir Rajah of Kwala Batu. 
 
 Since our return from Muckie, Po itwala has manifested 
 the greatest desire to make peace with the Commodore. 
 His fort at Kwala Batu was fired into by the John Adams, 
 at the cannonading of that town, riddled and battered. 
 He displayed during the whole time a white flag, and sev- 
 eral messages to the Commodore were sent on board. But 
 
308 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 it was the purpose of Commodore Read to hold no definite 
 communication with this Rajah unless he came on board 
 the Columbia. His fort was the one which opened on the 
 boats of the Potomac as they were disembarking, after 
 their landing and fight, when she was on this coast. 
 
 It was evident however that Po Kwala was unwilling 
 to trust his person in the hands of the Americans until some 
 treaty had been made, and presents of buffaloes and other 
 testimonies of friendship had been accepted. 
 
 To-day, however, accompanied by Captain Silver, of 
 the ship Sumatra, which has been lying outside of us for a 
 day or two, I went on shore with Lieutenant Pennock to 
 meet Po Kwala at Palau Kayu, the fort occupied by his 
 kinsman. And the Rajah promised the captain a favora- 
 ble contract, and would soon load his ship with pepper, if 
 Commodore Read could be induced to make a treaty of 
 peace with him. 
 
 We landed amidst a large number of men, bearing as 
 usual their long blades and krises. Po Nyah-heit met us 
 and conducted us to the verandah, constituting the council- 
 hall. It was a covered portico, elevated some feet from 
 the ground, open on its three sides, and extending the whole 
 length of the bamboo house. Cocoa-nuts, us usual, were 
 brought fresh from the trees, w r hich were now embowering 
 us ; and with their blades, always very sharp weapons, 
 several of the men soon chipped off one end of the cocoa- 
 nuts, and having laid the inner shell bare, they applied the 
 point of their keen daggers to the soft part of the bowl 
 containing the milk, and passed the refreshing goblet, na- 
 ture's unperverted gift, to our acceptance. We drank of 
 the cooling liquid, while the brother of Po Kwala, Po Nyah- 
 heit, and the Rajah of Pulau Kayu occupied their conspicu- 
 ous places on the council-mats, as their men surrounded 
 the verandah. 
 
 " Why Po Kwala no come ?" asked the captain, after 
 the cocoa-nuts had been passed, in that style of language 
 which the Malays use when attempting English. 
 
 " Po Kwala come soon four men gone for Po Kwala," 
 was the reply. Captain S. had seen the Rajah the evening 
 previous, who assured him that he would meet any propo- 
 sition that might be made the next morning, and would be 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 309 
 
 at the point to attend the council desired. But there is 
 always great ceremony on the part of these Malay Rajahs, 
 when they are to appear in council. Two or three sets 
 of men are despatched, to let the Rajah know that his pres- 
 ence is desired, and his delay is generally measured for its 
 length by the greater or less consideration with which he 
 is held by his followers. 
 
 " Po Kwala no come yet how much longer Po Kwala 
 make, and Po Kwala come ?" was again asked by Captain 
 S., after another interval had passed, during which Po 
 Nyah-heit had informed the captain that he esteemed me as 
 his particular friend, thinking that I had served him in some 
 two or three instances ; and in a few moments more a 
 small buffalo pranced along the end of the verandah, with 
 a rope affixed to his head, by which it was tied to a cocoa- 
 nut tree in front of the verandah. It was to be a present 
 from Taku Yah-Housin, the chief of Palau Kayu, who was 
 now sitting in the council. 
 
 Po Kwala not yet having reached the point, we took a 
 stroll over the grounds and through the forts which consti- 
 tute the location of Palau Kayu. The point is crowded 
 with trees bearing a great variety of fruits, magnificent in 
 their size and beautiful in their every variety of green fo- 
 liage. The cocoa-nut tree is the first that attracts the eye ; 
 its stem rising boughless, high up, and terminating with 
 long branching leaves, which curve over gracefully like 
 an umbrella, at the junction of which with the stem, the 
 fruit clusters at the head of the trunk of this peculiar tree. 
 It would look too stiff and naked were it standing alone ; 
 but they stand in groves, and their naked stems are con- 
 cealed more or less by the graceful palm, which serves this 
 people as a building material in constructing their light 
 houses, and entirely for their roofs. But the yet more grace- 
 ful bamboo waves everywhere, blending its deep green and 
 feathery top wherever nature would soften this otherwise 
 harsh scenery of the East. The tamarind tree, and the 
 mango, and the wide-leaf plantain, and banana, and name- 
 less other trees are seen yielding to the hands of these in- 
 dolent Malays the necessaries of life, and giving a luxuri- 
 riance to the appearance of the country, which assures 
 one what it might be in the hands of an intelligent and 
 industrious people. 
 
310 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The principal fort is stronger than any other which I 
 have seen on the coast, while they all seem to have but one 
 model. An area is enclosed by a bamboo stockade, the 
 bamboo often still growing, and thus lasting for a long peri- 
 od. Around this stockade a thick cluster of trees and briers 
 soon form themselves, rendering a passage through the 
 jungle or hedge thus formed almost impracticable to the na- 
 tive. On one corner of this area, or at the part where the 
 best defence can be made, an outwork is raised, being the 
 positions of the guns upon the mole. Between this eleva- 
 tion and the first enclosure is a space, and the passage from 
 the first area over the stockade, to the outwork, is by as- 
 cending a flight of steps to a plank, leading from the large 
 enclosure to the raised abutment, on which the guns are 
 placed ; and the plank is so disposed that in case a force 
 should make their way into the stockaded enclosure, the 
 plank can be raised like a drawbridge, and still impede 
 the advancing party in their approach to the stronghold, 
 the passage-way to which is usually defended by one of 
 the mounted cannon. 
 
 It is wholly constructed for self-defence against any at- 
 tacking party on land, and would afford a place of some 
 security in the perpetually occurring feuds between the dif- 
 ferent clans and big men of the coast. They are of little 
 consequence however in an attack made by an European 
 or American force. The torch would soon render the 
 place intolerable, and a few axes would open a passage in 
 any part of it, while the gate itself would give way to a 
 few blows from the sledge-hammer wielded by an arm of 
 the muscular power of our blacksmith. 
 
 The guns of the forts are miserably mounted six-pound- 
 ers. In the furthermost fort on the point, the guns had 
 been buried ; the Rajah fearing that we might land and 
 spike them, or take them from their place. The spot 
 where they had been covered for their preservation, was 
 pointed out to us. 
 
 We returned to the verandah, but Po Kwala had not 
 yet made his appearance, though we had been ashore for 
 nearly two hours, and it was now nearly twelve o'clock. 
 
 " Tell Po Nyah-heit and the others," I said to the inter- 
 preter, " that we wait no longer. If Po Kwala wants to 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 311 
 
 make talk he must come soon or not at all. To-day we are 
 willing to talk with him, and we have no more talk after 
 to-day." 
 
 " He come" " he coming," added two or three voices, 
 as they stretched their eye along the beach, to which they 
 had before turned, marking out the point from which they 
 expected him. 
 
 " Po Kwala wants to bring buffaloes Po Kwala come 
 some distance Po Kwala come soon true." 
 
 Po Nyah-heit had only listened to the interpretation of 
 what was addressed to them, and marked the air of impa- 
 tience and determination with which it had been spoken. 
 He rose from his mat, retiring from the council, and put 
 his head through a door, which led from the verandah. His 
 call being replied to from within, he immediately entered. 
 In a few moments he reappeared with seven followers, 
 each having a cleaver in his right hand, a kris in his gir- 
 dle, and a blunderbuss upon his left shoulder ; and in a 
 moment after was threading his way with his followers, 
 in Indian file, along the beach. 
 
 " Po Nyah-heit make fight ?" asked the Captain. 
 
 " Po Nyah-heit go for Po Kwala," was the reply. 
 
 A few moments more and they were lost to the sight 
 around a neighboring point of land. One of his seven re- 
 tainers who now followed him was a striking contrast to 
 the rest. He was a tall CafFre, with high cheek-bones but 
 long face, with a skin darker than the blackest night, and 
 teeth of jet in contrast with the bright color of the inner 
 surface of his large lips, which glowed deeper than the 
 reddest enamel of a sea-conch. He wore a scarlet jacket, 
 and a light turban twisted around a red skull-cap. One 
 would pause and look three times before he advanced to 
 meet such a figure, should he happen to cross his path ; 
 but his third look would assure him that his confronter 
 was a coward, and would retreat after the first discharge 
 of his blunderbuss, and postpone his murderous deeds to 
 be done by stealth. This dark Caffre is evidently a fa- 
 vorite slave of Po Nyah-heit's, and once seen would al- 
 ways be remembered as one of Po Nyah-heit's train of 
 followers. 
 
 " Po Kwala come," said one of the chiefs, as his eye 
 
312 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 rested on two figures, winding their way back, though in 
 the distance, on the beach. 
 
 " True ?" asked the Captain, as he seemed himself to 
 begin to fear that the Rajah's heart would fail him, having 
 apprehended that some train might be laid for securing 
 his person. In another moment a hundred more men 
 doubled around the point, and left it certain that the two 
 in advance were Po Nyah-heit and Po Kwala. 
 
 A single Malay entered the verandah and placed him- 
 self behind Captain S., apparently unobserved, and whis- 
 pered low: " Captain Silver heart and Po Kwala heart one 
 the same. Po Kwala safe ?" asked the solicitous Malay, 
 who, with others, had evidently been sent ahead to make 
 their observations and to report, if necessary. 
 
 It was evident that Po Kwala was now near; and in a 
 moment more two magnificent bullocks, with their heads 
 up and their horns sloping back almost to their hips, were 
 led around the verandah, and exhibited themselves with a 
 step that seemed to indicate that they were conscious of 
 their superior blood and royal ownership. 
 
 "Beautiful creatures!" involuntarily escaped me, as I 
 
 fazed on these sleek animals, round and plump as the 
 nest prize ox that ever riband ornamented, and shining 
 with as clean a coat of glossy hair as the finest groomed 
 steed of a nobleman. 
 
 " Beautiful !" was re-echoed by another, and the snuff- 
 ing and gentle creatures in their jet and fawn beauty, sur- 
 passing any thing I ever before saw of the bovine genus 
 of animals, now passed by the verandah to the shade of 
 the cocoa-nut trees, as Po Kwala came up from the beach 
 and entered the council-chamber. 
 
 He was not that cut-throat looking individual which he 
 had been represented to be. His person was rather small, 
 his deportment more gentlemanly than any other Rajah's 
 I have met with, with an unaffected air, which declared 
 him to be of a family above the mass who surrounded him, 
 though a little solicitude could occasionally be detected in 
 the roll of his eye. His dark jacket was edged with lace, 
 and a gold china m box and nobs ornamented the silk hand- 
 kerchief containing his beetel-nut, and thrown carelessly 
 over his shoulders ; while a richly mounted poniard with 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 313 
 
 a highly ornamental hilt and gold scabbard, studded his 
 girdle. 
 
 He took his seat at the head of the verandah, and after 
 the cocoa-nuts had passed around, the interpreter was di- 
 rected to say that the Rajah had been expected on board 
 last evening, but having delayed to visit the ship and yet 
 expressing his earnest desire to make peace with the Com- 
 modore, we had come ashore to hold a talk with him. 
 Was he ready to commence it ? 
 
 The Rajah expressed his desire to hear what the Com- 
 modore had directed to be communicated. 
 
 " Tell the Rajah, Jones," (the name of our interpreter,) 
 " that the Americans desire to be on friendly terms with 
 the Rajahs and their people on the coast that we do not 
 desire to injure them, but to further the interests of both 
 themselves and our people that we desire a peaceful in- 
 tercourse, but that we have come on the coast again to 
 show that we have the power to protect our commerce, 
 and that we not only have the power but the determina- 
 tion to inflict chastisement upon those who commit acts 
 of piracy against our traders, and on all who shelter them. 
 We have now done so. Other vessels of war would be 
 on the coast in due time, and if similar occurrences should 
 take place to those which had befallen the Eclipse, the 
 murderers and the robbers would be punished. It was 
 expected by the Commodore, from all with whom he en- 
 tered into an agreement of peace on the part of the United 
 States, that they should engage most solemnly that they 
 would do all in their power to prevent any further piracies 
 on the coast that in case any attack should he projected 
 (it was hoped that there would never be another, but if 
 there should be) and the Rajah should hear of it, he must 
 at once give information to the captain and the hands on 
 board the vessel; and if any of the pirates should take re- 
 fuge in any Rajah's particular jurisdiction, he will ap- 
 prehend them and retain them for the first man-of-war 
 that afterwards comes on the coast. Would the Rajah 
 solemnly pledge himself in these particulars, if the Com- 
 modore would treat with him?*' 
 
 " The Rajah will pledge," was the reply. 
 
 Then tell the Rajah that we have here a paper which 
 27 
 
314 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 embraces these particulars and pledges, to which it is 
 required that he will affix his seal, himself to retain a 
 duplicate of the paper, as evidence of fhe pledges made. 
 If any of his men understand English, they will be good 
 enough to attend, and mark that the sentences are correct- 
 ly interpreted. 
 
 The following paper was then interpreted, sentence by 
 sentence, to the Rajah, a number of those around assenting 
 audibly to the correspondence of the English with the 
 sense of each sentence, as given in Malayu to the Rajah. 
 The date of it was explained to him, as it had been pre- 
 pared the last evening, in expectation of his coming off to 
 the Columbia, to sign the paper. 
 
 " United States Frigate Columbia, off Soo-Soo, 
 "January llth, 1839." 
 
 " Po Kwala, Pedir Rajah at Kwala Batu, having come 
 on board of the Columbia with desires to make peace with 
 the Government of the United States, 
 
 " HEREBY DECLARES, that henceforth he will use every 
 effort, on his part, to assist the American ships which may 
 be trading on the west coast of Sumatra, and bring all 
 means in his power to suppress all piracies on the coast. 
 And in case any designed robbery or attack upon any 
 American vessel should be known to him, he will use- his 
 power to stop it, and give immediate information to the 
 captain and all who may be on board, for their defence 
 and protection. 
 
 " And should any of his men be guilty of the crime of 
 piracy against an American vessel ; or, should any pirates 
 take refuge among his people, he pledges himself that they 
 shall be punished by death, or given up to the Govern- 
 ment of the United States for trial, on the demand of the 
 commander of any armed United States vessel, or to the 
 captain of any merchantman who may be willing to take 
 them to the United States of America. 
 
 " In testimony of these feelings, Po Kwala hereto affixes 
 his signature and seal." 
 
 Every word of this document was listened to with great 
 attention, as it was interpreted sufficiently loud for the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 315 
 
 large number of Po Kwala's men to hear, who had now 
 crowded into the verandah and around its balustrade. 
 
 The Rajah took his seal to apply it to the instrument. 
 
 " We speak true we have but one tongue, tell the 
 Rajah and ask him if he fully understands the paper as 
 it has been interpreted." 
 
 " True we understand," was the reply from the Rajah 
 and several of his chief men ; while a peal of thunder sud- 
 denly rolled loud and long above the verandah, telling the 
 near approach of a gathering shower. The profound 
 calm of a death-scene reigned, while the Rajah still held 
 his seal. 
 
 " Tell the Rajah, that he hears the voice of Allah speak- 
 ing above us. We do all in Allah's name. Ask if he 
 pledges himself with equal solemnity and truth." 
 
 " True in Allah's name I pledge," was the reply ; and 
 his seal was on the paper. 
 
 It was a striking coincidence, that solemn roll of thun- 
 der through the heavens at this moment, and every Malay 
 suppressed his breath in the stillness that reigned. They 
 are said to be greatly timid in a thunder-storm ; and while 
 witnessing the present scene, in their present circum- 
 stances, there must have been deepness added to the emo- 
 tion of profound veneration that came over the spirit, as 
 the voice of God was heard so audibly in his works. 
 The seal of the Rajah having been affixed, the instru- 
 ment was witnessed by 
 
 TUKU NYAH-OUSSIN, 
 Po NYAH-HEIT, 
 TUKU NYAH-AHLEE, 
 
 FITCH W. TAYLOR, Chaplain U. S. Frigate Columbia ; 
 ALEXANDER PENNOCK, Act. Lieut. U. S. Frigate Columbia ; 
 PETER SILVER, Commander of ship Sumatra ; 
 J. HENSHAW BELCHER, Prof, of Math. U. S. Fr. Columbia. 
 
 " We are now at peace, and hope we shall long be 
 friends," it was said, as the two parties shook the hand of 
 the other, in token of their future friendly purposes. 
 
 " Stay a moment," was the request of the Rajah, while 
 he offered to the acceptance of the Commodore the two 
 
316 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 magnificent bullocks that had been led past the verandah, 
 and tendered another to Captain Silver. 
 
 They were accepted, and the Rajah invited to visit the 
 ship. He placed himself in the boat with his brother, Po 
 Nyah-heit, the Rajah of Pulau Kayu, and the boat pulled 
 for the Columbia. I had ascended from the boat over the 
 gangway to the deck of the frigate, and watched the Ra- 
 jah as he descended the steps to the deck. His attendants 
 had advanced before him. The Rajah, on reaching the 
 highest step of the gangway, paused hesitatingly an in- 
 stant, and then came down to the deck. 
 
 They visited the cabin, and paid their respects to the 
 Commodore, who now affixed his signature to the instru- 
 ment which had been signed by the Rajah. Having been 
 shown over the ship, they left her again, doubtless duly 
 impressed with our power the Rajah expressing his high 
 gratification and surprise, and desire to have an oppor- 
 tunity further to listen to the music the bass-drum par- 
 ticularly attracting his attention. 
 
 And, should I judge from the Rajah's unwillingness to 
 come on board until after the treaty was signed, and the 
 buffaloes were accepted and the little reluctance which 
 seemed occasionally to affect him afterwards and the 
 doubt of security manifesting itself as he came over the 
 gangway I take it that his Rajahship was greatly happy 
 when he found himself, with his head still on, once more 
 safely on shore. The next day he would have visited the 
 ship, but it rained in torrents ; and the second morning 
 after, at daylight, the ships were unmoored and again 
 standing on their course at sea. 
 
 From the despatches of Commodore Read to the Sec- 
 retary of the Navy, containing full accounts of the action 
 of the squadron, on the west coast of Sumatra, I extract 
 the following paragraphs, commendatory of the officers 
 named, when alluding to the expedition at Muckie. 
 
 " For the performance and execution of this service, 
 Commander T. W. Wyman exhibited a promptness and 
 energy which could not be surpassed ; and had an enemy 
 appeared to oppose the advance of the party, his gallantry 
 would have been conspicuous. 
 
 " To Lieutenant Magruder, executive officer of the Co- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 317 
 
 lumbia, I feel much indebted for the good order and expe- 
 dition with which the men from the Columbia were landed 
 and led by him, and for the previous training they had 
 received, the advantages of which were now apparent. 
 
 " Lieutenants Turk, Turner, and Pennock, merit my 
 warm acknowledgments, as leaders of their separate di- 
 visions ; and the conduct of Lieutenant Baker, who led 
 the marines, deserves my unqualified approbation. Much 
 was expected from the marines on the occasion, and much 
 no doubt would have been done, had further proof of 
 their skill and discipline been required. 
 
 " Acting Master Jenkins, Midshipmen Crawford, No- 
 land, Barney, Smith, Sincler, Green, Toomer, Fauntleroy, 
 McCormick, and Donaldson ; Mr. Belcher, Professor of 
 Mathematics, Mr. Martin the Gunner, Mr. Crow the Sail- 
 maker, were all embarked in this enterprise, and are spo- 
 ken of in terms of praise by Commander Wyman, to whose 
 report, sent herewith, I must refer you for the further 
 particulars of this affair, and for the names of those of- 
 ficers who landed with him from the John Adams. He 
 speaks in high terms of them all, and gives me every 
 reason to believe that they merit my approbation and 
 thanks." 
 
 27* 
 
A 
 
 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 AND VISITS TO 
 
 VARIOUS FOREIGN COUNTRIES, 
 
 IN THE 
 
 UNITED STATES FRIGATE COLUMBIA; 
 
 ATTENDED BY HER CONSORT 
 
 THE SLOOP OF WAR JOHN ADAMS, 
 
 AND COMMANDED EY 
 
 COMMODORE GEORGE C. READ. 
 
 ALSO INCLUDING 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF THE BOMBARDING AND FIRING OF THE TOWN OF MUCKIE, ON THE MALAY 
 
 COAST, AND THE VISIT OF THE SHIPS TO CHINA DURING THE OPIUM DIFFICULTIES 
 
 AT CANTON, AND CONFINEMENT OF THE FOREIGNERS IN THAT CITY- 
 
 BY FITCH W. TAYLOR, 
 
 to te Squadron. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 NEW- HAVEN: 
 PUBLISHED BY H. MANSFIELD. 
 
 NEW-YORK: 
 
 D. APPLETON & CO., 200 BROADWAY 
 1842. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, by 
 
 H. MANSFIELD, 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Connecticut. 
 
VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 PENANG. 
 
 Leaving the frigate, in a boat, while the ship is twenty miles distant from 
 the shore. Dine with the Consular Agent. The Mangusteen. A night- 
 sail. 
 
 OUR ships doubled Achin Head, the northwestern end 
 of the island of Sumatra, after a few days' passage from 
 Soo-Soo, without incident, and arrived off Penang, Prince 
 of Wales' Island. A boat was sent ashore, to convey 
 the compliments of the Commodore to the Governor, and 
 to obtain a pilot to conduct the Columbia through the 
 straits of Malacca to Singapore. 
 
 Lieutenants Palmer and Jarvis, accompanied by my- 
 self, landed at the town, after a pull of five hours in one 
 of the ship's boats, and over a distance of twenty miles. 
 The distance was greater than supposed when we left the 
 ship ; and before we reached the shore, the highest truck 
 of the Columbia had sunken in the distance, and was en- 
 tirely lost to the eye. The broad folds of the American 
 ensign were floating in front of the Consulate as our boat 
 approached the town ; and Mr. Reverly, our Consular 
 Agent, was at the landing-place to meet us, to conduct us 
 to his residence. We were pleased with the neatness 
 presented by the green-coated area through which we 
 passed, intersected by the public avenues, gravelled, and 
 lined on either side by sluice-ways, for conducting the 
 water from the grounds ; and we had but a moment con- 
 templated the air of neatness, comfort, and beauty which 
 
6 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the place presented to our first view, before we were 
 wishing that it might be compatible with the duties of the 
 squadron to delay a few days at this anchorage. But 
 the scarcity of our stores requires that the ships, without 
 further delay, should proceed to Singapore, where the 
 first store-ship for our supply has been directed to meet 
 us from the United States. 
 
 It was five o'clock P. M. when we reached Mr. Rever- 
 ly's. A bountiful table, with the air of domestic comfort, 
 was awaiting us ; and we found ourselves agreeably 
 entertained as we sat down to the acceptable repast, with 
 Mr. R.'s family. 
 
 Among the fruits presented us at the table, was the 
 mangusteen, (garcinia mangostana,) so invariably alluded 
 to by all visiters to the Indies, as the choicest fruit which 
 the earth produces. 
 
 " And this is the mangusteen of which we have heard 
 so much, but which before I have riot seen," I said to Mr. 
 R. as the fruit-dish, containing fine specimens of the fruit, 
 was passed to me. " And some days ago, when a gentle- 
 man, on whose left I was sitting, helped me to the delicious 
 mango, he added, if you will pause a moment I will show 
 you how to eat it. 1 doubt not you will be equally kind." 
 
 M. R. placed his knife upon the centre of the globulous 
 fruit, and passing the instrument horizontally around it, 
 raised one half of the thick rind from the other, leaving 
 exposed to the view the beautifully white pulp of the fruit, 
 resting in the other half of the bowl, in beautiful contrast 
 with its brown covering. This inner globule of pulp is 
 divided into four or five unequal parts, each enveloping 
 its seed, but together forming a complete scalloped whole. 
 You take these with your fork easily from the cup or the 
 thick rind ; and the mildly-acid pulp convinces you, that 
 the mangusteen justly holds, for its richness and exquisite 
 acido-dulcis taste, the first place among the delicious fruits 
 of the East. 
 
 Another fruit yet more peculiar and nearly as delicious 
 as the mangusteen, enriched the dessert. It had the ap- 
 pearance of a dish of immense oblong strawberries as 
 they occupy the fruit-dish, but you wonder that they 
 should be so large. As you take one, you find the external 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 coat bristled with elongated and flexible fibres ; and cutting 
 the red cuticle, it exposes a semi-translucent pulp resem- 
 bling the grape, and enclosing its single oblong seed. This 
 fruit is called the rambutan. Several were crowded upon 
 my plate, together with the mangusteen, which last, with 
 its severed rind, leaving the beautiful white pulp resting 
 in one half of its brown cup, may remind one of the mag- 
 nolia in its green calix, and suggest the idea that it holds 
 its pride of place among the fruits of the Indies, as the 
 magnolia grandiflora blooms the reigning queen in the 
 kingdom of beautiful flowers. The doctor having whis- 
 pered me, not to indulge in the eating of fruits when he 
 heard of my intention to visit the shore, I refrained with 
 admirable self-denial, as I thought, with such temptations 
 before me. 
 
 Carriages were waiting us at the door, through the 
 politeness of Mr. R., as we arose from the table, to give 
 us a short drive through the town and into the country, 
 along the beautiful and evergreen paths, which charac- 
 terize all this region of the East, and rendered additionally 
 lovely and commodious by art, which is ever the case 
 wherever the English have planted themselves, whose 
 hand beautifies whatever it touches. 
 
 We returned to Mr. R.'s to tea ; and having spent the 
 evening and been favored with music, which carried our 
 associations far over the waters, we took our leave be- 
 tween eleven and twelve o'clock, with the expectation of 
 spending the remaining part of the night upon the water. 
 As our boat put to sea to find our ship, the land-breeze 
 had just commenced to blow from the shore. Our sails 
 were set, and the breeze strengthened, and the sea in- 
 creased. We stood on our night-path, hoping in an hour 
 or two to raise the ship in the direction we supposed her 
 to be lying, presuming that she had not changed her posi- 
 tion since we last saw her, when she had come to anchor, 
 after standing to the northward some milejS from where 
 we had left her. 
 
 "Shall we have more wind, pilot?" was inquired by 
 the officer, as the sails began to feel the pressure of the 
 freshening breeze, so as to drive the boat with consider- 
 able velocity over the sea. 
 
 28 
 
8 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " A little more breeze," answered the pilot, who was 
 placed upon his bag of traps, and now turned his eye as 
 directed towards the north, where a cloud seemed to be 
 deepening as the gleams of lightning occasionally shot 
 horizontally across the dark field. 
 
 " Pilot, is there a prospect of more sea ?" again asked 
 the officer, after an interval, during which the wind con- 
 tinued to freshen and the waves to dash with greater force 
 against our boat, as she bent to the impulse of the heavy air. 
 
 "A little more sea," replied the pilot mechanically, 
 " but not more than the boat will stand." 
 
 " In the bows there see you the ship yet ?" 
 
 It was impossible to catch a glimpse of the naked spars 
 in the dark distance, I well knew, although the watchful 
 care of the officer strained his eye to find the first indi- 
 cation of the rising masts of the frigate, of which, we 
 knew not yet, but that she had changed her position, and 
 as we hoped had stood further in to meet us and to lessen 
 our row. 
 
 The fair breeze however took us onward every now 
 and then some one of the look-outs expressing his belief 
 that he saw the spars of the ship in the dim distance be- 
 yond us. But the awakened hope generally soon faded, 
 as some tracery of cloud melted away and left the field 
 again a blank and dark expanse. 
 
 The moon had emerged from a clouded heaven, while 
 we had been standing on our course out to sea in our light 
 barque, as the veil that had concealed moon and star 
 threw aside its folds, and the silver path she now marked 
 upon the water south of us held my own gaze, as I hoped 
 the ship, if yet under way, might be discerned as she 
 crossed this brilliant wake of the peerless moon. But we 
 stood yet on our night-path without gaining a view of the 
 object for which we were searching. More than three 
 hours had passed, and we had been driving before the 
 stiff breeze off the land. 
 
 " I say the bows there !" cried the officer again, for 
 more than the twentieth time. " See you not the ship 
 there, a point on the weather bow ? I know I see her," 
 continued the positive officer, as he further directed the 
 eyes of the look-outs. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 9 
 
 " Ay ay sir ! I see her," replied the sailor in the 
 bows of the boat. 
 
 " Keep your eye on her then, sir," continued the offi- 
 cer, as he satisfied himself that he was not again de- 
 ceived, while he traced the distant poles like three spindles, 
 faintly lining themselves on the horizon. " I know she is 
 there, and the Adams lies beside her by George, they 
 are there, both of them." 
 
 The Adams must have come up during the day, as she 
 was not in sight at the time we left the Columbia in the 
 morning. And now the moon, on her course, was already 
 fast settling, and another half-hour she would be driving 
 her chariot and peacocks beyond the rim of the dark sea. 
 She had already, for more than an hour past, assumed the 
 melancholy of the farewell, and an hour before we finally 
 reached the ship, she dipped the wheels of her night-car 
 in the furthest-seen wave beyond the Columbia. 
 
 I know not in nature a more melancholy object than 
 the setting moon. And I shall never forget where I first 
 saw it. It was from a stage-coach, at midnight, in a state 
 far south, on my return from a tour to the southernmost 
 part of our union. It was at a point where the coaches 
 exchanged their passengers, and travellers from every 
 point replenished the vehicle for its new course. The 
 coach had been crowded, and one seat alone was unoccu- 
 pied as I took it, at the window ; and all seemed to wait 
 for the morning light to develop the countenances of the 
 party, before words were exchanged. And yet, so sad 
 did that moon look that night, as in her full orb she set- 
 tled behind the distant forests, I ventured to direct the 
 eye of the lady-passenger, who sat in front of me, to the 
 mournful object. I know not that this page will meet that 
 eye, with which but few eyes I have since seen in this 
 world could at all compare, for its loveliness of expres- 
 sion and color, as it opened in the morning's light ; but 
 should it, she will remember the incident, and the rescue 
 that saved others besides herself from the perils of a 
 grave in the deep. Reader, watch you the declining 
 moon at the hour of her next midnight-setting, and tell 
 me if it be not a sorrowful thing. 
 
 The second officer of the boat had now taken his look, 
 
10 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 after we had approached still nearer to the ships, and re 
 took his seat, satisfied that we were nearing her on the 
 right course, as he added, in his own manner : " No mis- 
 take she's there yonder is her light now, all ahoy ! 
 
 It had gone six bells, or was past three o'clock in the 
 morning, as we ascended over the gangway of the good 
 ship, and reported our return to the officer of the deck, a 
 worthy young gentleman and officer of great merit, now 
 pacing the still deck in the mid-watch, and doubtless, think- 
 ing of those he loved in Brooklyn. 
 
 Our ships were early under way the next morning, and 
 we are now standing on our course for Singapore. We 
 have learned of the island of Singapore as a spot contain- 
 ing beauty of scenery, hospitality among its residents, and 
 health in its atmosphere. 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 SINGAPORE. 
 
 The Chinese junk. Beating into the harbor. American Missionaries and 
 their prospects. Chinese at Singapore. The Moor-man's daughter. 
 Fruits of the Malacca Straits. Pepper plantations. The nutmeg. Dine 
 with the Scotch Missionaries. The Rev. Mr. White, English chaplain, 
 and his family. An evening drive. Mr. and Mrs. Davenport, Baptist 
 Missionaries of Siam. Surprising a Siamese and a Chinese, by a develop- 
 ment of their phrenological character. Siamese coins. Siamese dream- 
 book. *' The departure of the Missionary bride." Missionaries preach 
 on board the Columbia. Services and communion on shore at the mis- 
 sion-room. Malay language. Translation of Po Chute Abdullah's agree- 
 ment with Commodore Read. Also, of a letter from a Rajah of Muckie. 
 Also, of Po Kwala's letter to Commodore Read. J. Balistier, Esq. and 
 family. Society of Singapore. Mrs. Balistier's collection of shells. Sud- 
 den death of Mrs. Wood, a young and interesting missionary. Her fune- 
 ral. The burial-place of Stevens, a college class-mate of the author. 
 Episcopal church at Singapore. The author preaches for the Rev. Mr. 
 White. Courtesy of the English clergy in the East. Last visits, and 
 drives, and adieus, and sunset at Singapore. 
 
 WE anchored off the city of Singapore, February 5th, 
 1839, among the little fleet of vessels now lying near us. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. U 
 
 Another change has come over the spirit of the scene. 
 The Chinese junk has come down to meet us on neutral 
 ground a thing not to be forgotten after once seen, for 
 its combinations of as many dissonant proportions in a spe- 
 cimen of naval architecture, as could well be assembled 
 in a monster of ugliness. It is a thing to be drifted and 
 blown before the wind from Canton to Singapore during 
 the northeast monsoons, and back again, from a terrestrial 
 adventure for trade, to its celestial home, when the wind, 
 after a six months' blow, changes. These ghastly oddi- 
 ties of other ages, some thirty or forty in number, belong- 
 ing to these celestials, lie some mile and more distant from 
 us, nearer in shore than ourselves, and are seen gazing 
 from their immense eyes, which are affixed to their bows 
 designating the head otherwise unknown from the stern, 
 each being equally broad, and equally high, and equally 
 nondescript. In truth, a Chinese junk is just such a thing 
 as a flat would be, or a scow, to use a New Englandism, 
 were it to be increased in length and proportionably in 
 breadth ; and then, a little more rounded in the bottom, be 
 built right up in the air for twenty feet ; and then, extend- 
 ing from stern to bows on one side and bows to stern on 
 the other, long horizontal ribs, to strengthen said junk. 
 Then, paint the whole white outside, with a red eye on 
 either bow as big as a full moon, and looking as much 
 like the thing intended to be represented, as the face of 
 the bright Dian resembles a green cheese. This eye is 
 placed in its post, never to be closed, on the principle, "he 
 have no eye, how can see 1" The monster is a ponderous 
 and heavy thing ; spacious, to accommodate innumerable 
 uneriumerated trifles of these innumerable traders in no- 
 things, as they would seem to the observant European ; 
 and in the view of all utility too, for they are gewgaws 
 of distorted shapes and fragile mechanism, such as are 
 found in American toy-shops for children, and which seem 
 to be the very things which keep this nation, with all their 
 greatest excellencies which can be enumerated, a nation 
 of grown children. The mind of man is measured by the 
 objects of its employments. 
 
 The appearance of the town of Singapore is picturesque. 
 The hills of unequal elevations, and crowned with respect- 
 
 28* 
 
12 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 able dwelling houses, rise above the buildings located on 
 the plain ; and the relief of the green hill-side mellows 
 the scene, in the too great absence of forest and ornamental 
 trees ; while the air of neatness, but newness, marks the 
 tout ensemble of the panoramic view from the ship. 
 
 Our frigate beat up the narrow passage among the 
 islands to the harbor, and made a number of tacks in full 
 view of the town. The strong northeaster blew in our 
 teeth ; and the ship proved herself in every particular a 
 superb vessel. All the officers were delighted with her 
 action ; and certainly she played her part like a thing of 
 life, as she reached forth on her short tacks, buoyantly 
 and true, never missing stays, and eating to the windward 
 like a clipper, even while she tacked. The Columbia had 
 not before been so faithfully tested as now, as to her pro- 
 perties and powers for beating to the windward. All 
 deemed her, in this particular, the truest ship in which 
 they had ever sailed. 
 
 AMERICAN MISSIONARIES AT SINGAPORE. 
 
 On visiting the shore, I was happy to find, at this sta- 
 tion, quite a number of the American missionaries : with 
 them my sympathies lie. Besides the gentlemen and ladies 
 regularly stationed here, some six or eight have taken up 
 their temporary residence, with their brethren, at Singa- 
 pore. This is owing to the circumstance, that the Dutch 
 government of Java, with the sanction, it is supposed, of 
 the mother country, who, with her buckskin breeches, etc., 
 is ever one age behind the century of the times, have pro- 
 hibited the missionaries from locating themselves at any 
 other place in the Dutch East India dominions, save on the 
 island of Borneo. And before they shall repair to this con- 
 tinent of an island, they are required to take an oath that 
 they will engage in nothing tending to promote rebellion 
 against this grandfather government. Part of the mis- 
 sion, therefore, are now at Singapore, waiting for an op- 
 portunity to go to Borneo, two of their number having 
 visited the island and found, according to their impressions, 
 an opening for their labors. The results of the observa- 
 tions of these gentlemen are about being made known, in 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 13 
 
 a communication nearly ready to be sent to their friends 
 in America. 
 
 Singapore presents an inviting position for a town, 
 destined ere long to become of considerable extent, as the 
 result of its fine commercial situation. While riding 
 through its different sections, to wait on the several families 
 of the mission, many of the houses already constructed 
 presented themselves on a scale of spaciousness, and con- 
 siderable elegance and taste in the adaptation of extensive 
 verandahs and airy rooms to meet the circumstances of 
 the climate, in wooing the sea-breeze from the ocean, and 
 to court the land-zephyr from the groves of the nutmegs 
 and the palms. Many of the sites of the residences are 
 commanding, and the houses are very generally surround- 
 ed by spacious grounds. 
 
 I was not disappointed in finding interest in the charac- 
 ters of the missionaries and their wives. Some of them 
 are young married couples ; and in manners and person 
 a number of these ladies strike you as most deserving of 
 the interest they awaken. Why should a young woman, 
 with the intelligence, manners, and person that would 
 grace the halls of the noble as she moved among the elite 
 of a court-levee, leave the happiest land in the world, and 
 a circle of relatives and friends devoted to her, to seek a 
 place among foreigners, and devote her life to the strange 
 and dark people of eastern climes, who care not for the 
 sympathies that are poured out in their behalf; and who, 
 in a thousand instances, not only are not grateful, but po- 
 sitively unkind in the manifestation of their indifference to 
 those who are lavishing their lives in furthering their best 
 interests mentally, physically, and religiously ? What, but 
 a love which lies deeper in the soul than a worldly man 
 can fathom, and which the opposers of missions could nev- 
 er dream of ? so far is it all beyond the experience of 
 the prejudiced mind. Did I not think the action practicable, 
 in its hoped-for results, as put forth by such self-sacrificing 
 individuals, forsaking home and kindred, and devoting 
 youth and maturer age, in labors difficult, and oftentimes 
 sorrowful and disconsolate, I yet would look with an eye 
 that should float in warm admiration and sympathy, on the 
 generous sacrifices of such beautiful spirits, as are often 
 
14 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 found among the missionary band. And merits not he the 
 language of severity who can speak not only lightly but 
 slightingly of such a class of citizens, who make the world 
 the object of the swelling benevolence of their hearts, and 
 even coarsely question sometimes the motives of such men 
 and women, as if some sinister views had caused them to 
 come over seas, and to forsake the home of their early as- 
 sociations for a life among a heathen people ? I can forgive 
 and forget a remark that is addressed with unkindness 
 against myself. And I may forgive but I cannot forget 
 the language of disparagement, used in dishonor of such 
 men and such women as those of whom we are speaking, 
 of whom, as to the character and the excellence of many 
 of them, the world is unworthy. I take it as an evidence, 
 than which none can be more conclusive, of the ill-breed- 
 ing of an individual, however loud and frequent may be 
 his own self-constituted claims to the chaste and pure feel- 
 ings of the true gentleman, when I hear one indulging in 
 sweeping remarks against such a class of persons, intelli- 
 gent and deserving, and better bred than himself ; and in 
 most instances better born, both as to the respectability 
 of their connections and the antiquity of their families. 
 
 I dined at the Rev. Mr. Doty's, and met Mr. and Mrs. 
 Polhman, and Mrs. Thompson and Mrs. Doty having 
 previously called on Mr. and Mrs. North and Mr. and 
 Mrs. Youngblood, and afterwards drove to Mr. and Mrs. 
 Ball's, and Mr. and Mrs. Wood's. Time did not admit of 
 my extending my calls to the families of the Scotch mis- 
 sion. But in the evening, it being the first Monday of the 
 month, I gladly consented to stay on shore sufficiently late 
 to attend the monthly concert, which was to be held at 
 the house of the Rev. Mr. Orr. I met, as the consequence, 
 all the missionaries of the station, and others who are tem- 
 porarily residing at Singapore. The large private hall 
 was already lined by this company of missionaries, as I 
 entered ; and I am sure that I shall not forget the scene, 
 as I contemplated their number, and carried back my 
 thoughts to other d lys, when I had read of India missions, 
 and now mused of the self-sacrifice of some whom I had 
 known, and others whom I had learned to love for their 
 gentle characters, and who had ended their lives in these 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 15 
 
 eastern lands. It was not among my young fancies that I 
 should visit these regions, when, while yet a boy, I poured 
 my tears upon the pages of the memoir of Harriet New- 
 ell, when reading her plaintive story, or while I turned 
 the leaves that gave forth the breathings of the beautiful 
 and classic spirit of Martyn. But, to-night it was my 
 privilege to stand among this " chosen band," and to sit 
 and commune with chosen spirits, and to kneel and blend 
 my own feelings with theirs, in prayer to our common 
 Lord. 
 
 I had thought much on the subject of missions since 
 reaching the Indian seas. My heart had been depressed 
 as I contemplated the barriers, which, like impassable bul- 
 warks, seemed to rise, to debar the advance of Christian 
 principles among the thousand casts of the people of the 
 East. If they were an intelligent people had they intel- 
 lects capable of generalizing, drawing conclusions from just 
 reasonings could two in ten of their number read the books 
 in their own language, when placed in their hands indeed, 
 were they any thing but a race who seem to have no other 
 idea of life than securing pice to buy curry with, or to hoard 
 up in their coffers this miserably pitiful coin, then there 
 might be hopes for the enlightening of the mind now be- 
 nighted on the grandest subjects which pertain to the best 
 and the immortal being of the soul ; and more immediate 
 results might be expected from the efforts of the devoted 
 missionary. In the present state of the heathen nations, 
 however, there seemed to the mind, as we first entered 
 these regions, no gleam of well-grounded and happy ex- 
 pectation, streaming in the horizon which skirts the vast 
 expanse of the eastern continent and the isles of these 
 oceans. 
 
 But the mind wrestles, when oppressed with disappoint- 
 ment, to gain relief from the burden ; and in rny own 
 case, while revolving the circumstances of the eastern na- 
 tions, as we have been passing them, and observing their 
 customs, opinions, and habits, and apparent prospects in 
 connection with their domestic, political, and religious 
 destinies, with the missionary efforts among them, better 
 and most consoling views have presented themselves ; and 
 even high-wrought expectation has possessed the mind, 
 
16 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 when our views have extended on to the future result of 
 the present action, and dwelled upon the causes tending to 
 the ultimate success of the cause of missions, in the en- 
 circling of the globe in the light of the Christian religion. 
 But it is not this generation which shall be thus illumined. 
 The millions yet to come, who, compared with the present 
 generation, are as the ocean to the drop, are the people 
 who are to reap the advantages of the present action of 
 these devoted men and their associates, throughout the 
 world. Although not a thousand in ten thousand of the 
 heathen can read the books of their native language ; and 
 though the people of this age are not to be the recipients 
 of the greatest benefit of these labors, yet the action which 
 is being put forth in the instruction of children, and the 
 creating of Christian books in the different languages of 
 the world, is the preparatory step. The children will be 
 ashamed of the superstitions of their ancestors, when they 
 contemplate them in contrast with the Christian religion. 
 And as we look over the world, (a mere ball when viewed 
 in its proportions of a diameter of but 8,000 miles, but a 
 mighty earth when regarded as the residence-to-be of yet 
 unborn millions of coming generations,) we find a band 
 of faithful laborers engaged in the same instructions and 
 with the same purposes, at almost every point of our globe. 
 These points are comparatively near each other ; and the 
 influence of Christian nations is everywhere setting in from 
 them, while the books are everywhere in every language 
 prepared to spread the principles of the gospel of Jesus 
 Christ. Take, for illustration, the stations of the Mediterra- 
 nean, not far even in miles from Hindoostan, with the inter- 
 vening stations in Persia, and all along the coast, at the 
 Cape of Good Hope, Bombay, Ceylon, Singapore, Siam, 
 Chinese Empire, Pacific Isles, with the Christian shores of 
 Europe and America. If we join these several points, we 
 find the earth covered with a net-work of intersecting 
 lines, which, from one to its neighboring point of intersec- 
 tion, is but a short distance even in miles. How, then, 
 shall these points, like radiants, send forth their direct rays 
 over the surface of the globe as ages advance ! And how 
 shall these influences, which result from the instruction of 
 these thousands of children, and the increasing facilities 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 17 
 
 of communication between the points as the consequence 
 of the extension of European and American intercourse, 
 spread and produce convictions, under the higher influ- 
 ence of heaven, of the " truth as it is in Jesus Christ !" 
 It is a bright belt that already spans the earth, more bril- 
 liant to the Christian's eye than the band of Saturn to the 
 vision of the astronomer. And the men who are now 
 laboring in the field of missions, at these different points, 
 are the workmen, who shall not be ashamed of their la- 
 bors when the accounts for eternity shall be made up. It is 
 their early work which is to tell on the nations of the world 
 in the advance of the sciences and improvements which 
 are now making such rapid strides in the world, to encir- 
 cle the earth in their blessings. And though they see not 
 the present generation, in great numbers, embracing the 
 system they are engaged in propagating, and are thus de- 
 prived of the consolation they otherwise would have, yet 
 they are to be commended the more for their unwearied 
 action in these preliminary and necessary steps of instruc- 
 tion to spread the gospel story, and for the universal diffu- 
 sion of other books of wisdom and interest, leading to the 
 one result of begetting in the preference of the universal 
 mind of the world an acknowledgment and an embracing 
 of the religion of the cross. Others shall come in their 
 steps, and bless their memory, as they labor and see the 
 greater ingathering of the nations, as the result of the 
 preparations which the pioneers of missions shall have 
 made ; and the glorious results of the efforts of these self- 
 denying and laboring disciples of Jesus Christ shall live 
 to bless the earth, when they themselves shall long have 
 been gathered to the unbenighted abodes of the happy 
 dead. 
 
 CHINESE AT SINGAPORE. 
 
 During the week, several objects of interest have pre- 
 sented themselves to my observation. Singapore is filled 
 with Chinese, and they seem to form the largest class of 
 its inhabitants, while offering a new object for the study of 
 the voyager around the world. Their dress is a pair of 
 large trousers, varying in colors some of black glazed 
 
18 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 cotton, others of blue nankeen, and still others of white 
 cambric. To this is added a frock or shirt, generally white, 
 hanging loosely, some with sleeves, and others with no 
 sleeves. Their shaven skulls, however, attract the atten- 
 tion as being most particularly characteristic with their long 
 quieu hanging down in its braid, and composed of the 
 gathered hair growing in a circular patch, as large as the 
 hand would cover, from the crown of the head. This 
 braid falls nearly to the heels of the celestials, with their 
 toes encased in their thick-soled and turn-up toed shoes. 
 They pass with a quick step ; and their loose sleeves and 
 trousers flutter in the gale they create in their passage, 
 with nothing upon their shaven heads but the tuft-knot upon 
 the crown, and sometimes the long braid curled in a plait 
 around it. Their heads are remarkably round, and theii 
 brows smooth, indicating ideality, but little powers of rea- 
 soning or locality. Of the defect in this last particular 
 we have daily evidence, as our boats, in passing to the 
 shore, drive into theirs, as if these celestials thought them- 
 selves intangible spirits, and manifest no kind of perception, 
 apparently, that the boats are coming into contact, until the 
 rencounter takes place, when they laugh with their little 
 cocked eyes, as if it were all a good joke, should their 
 boat chance to survive the contusion, and save their yellow 
 skins from a desirable ablution a thing not always their 
 good fortune, as one of our boats has already emptied one 
 Chinaman's crew into the sea, while the boat dipped her- 
 self to the full, as it gave way for the passage of the heav- 
 ier body of the cutter. 
 
 All the eastern people are excessively fond of ornaments. 
 I visited the house of a Moor-man to-day. He had accom- 
 panied me during the morning to examine some objects of 
 curiosity ; and having returned to his residence at the hour 
 for dinner, he took me to an upper room, where were his 
 attendants, and his young daughter, a girl of twelve or thir- 
 teen years of age, quite pretty and smiling, and covered 
 with ornaments. A red silk bodice encircled her chest, 
 leaving her arms bare, and a loose robe of white cambric 
 was carelessly wrapped around her body. I was curious 
 to note the number of her jewels, as she came to me at 
 the direction of her father, and gave me her little hand, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 19 
 
 darker than a brunette's, with her clear nails reddened with 
 a stain. Her ears were fringed with rings, twenty-one 
 in number, covering the whole crown of the upper edges 
 with golden fillagree. Two rubies gleamed, one on either 
 side of the nose, being confined to their place by a screw, 
 which penetrated through each nostril, and fastened inside 
 the nostril by a knob affixed to the screw. Five bracelets 
 of gold decorated her wrists, and seven rings graced her 
 tapering fingers. Two heavy silver bracelets encircled 
 her ebony ankles, and three silver thimbles encased as 
 many of the young nymph's toes. She was the old man's 
 only child, and her mother had died three months be- 
 fore. 
 
 I had thrown myself on the mat which had been spread 
 for me, on a couch, while one of the slaves of the Moor 
 flourished before me a sandal-wood fan, whose fringes, 
 being moistened, gave out the rich odor of this precious 
 wood. 
 
 In a few moments, curried rice, with chicken, was placed 
 before me, and warm milk and fruits, while the dark-bearded 
 Moor ate from a separate dish with his young daughter, on 
 another couch, and occasionally manifested his affection 
 for his child by patting the cheek of his pretty little girl. 
 
 While walking with this Moor, we met the Moorish 
 priest, robed in his red and graceful costume, and w r hite 
 turban. He was a very graceful man in his salam and 
 conversation. I told him that I should visit his mosque, 
 and we parted. He sent to the frigate a present of oranges 
 for me the succeeding day. 
 
 FRUITS OF THE STRAITS. 
 
 The fruits of the straits are not only almost innumer- 
 able for their variety, but exquisite for their richness and 
 delicious flavor. A great variety is produced in Singa- 
 pore and its neighborhood, but a still larger assemblage 
 is gathered to the market here, from the surrounding 
 islands and the Malacca coast. I have in my possession 
 thirty or forty illustrations of the different fruits of the 
 straits, well done in colors, by the interesting Chinese 
 artist, employed by Sir Stamford Raffles ; and most of 
 
 29 
 
20 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 these fruits I have seen growing on the grounds about 
 Singapore, since we arrived at this place. 
 
 I commence the specification of these fruits with the 
 mangusteen, (garcinia mangostana of Linna3us,) as being 
 the most delicate and delicious fruit of the Indies, and 
 said to be, with the durian, peculiar to these regions of the 
 Malacca peninsula. I first tasted it at Penang, as before 
 described. And although I had heard so much of this 
 fruit and anticipated something exceedingly rich, I found 
 it equal to its reputation. It is a beautiful thing too when 
 opened the contrast between the white pulp and the 
 roseate and scalloped capsule that encloses it. The fla- 
 vor of the fruit is a most delicate dulcis acid, without the 
 property of lusciousness. It is a drupe with a rind two 
 eighths of an inch thick, and of the size of a common ap- 
 ple, and much resembling some dark-red species of that 
 fruit the rind being hard on the outside and soft and 
 succulent within, the juicy property of which is an astrin- 
 gent. This external envelope encloses the scalloped and 
 beautifully white pulp of several divisions, occasionally 
 tinged with the royal purple ; and the rich thing melts in 
 the mouth, to the great acceptance of the gratified taste. 
 The number of the relievo petals in the fanciful little for- 
 get-me-not on the end of the fruit, opposite the calix, tells 
 the number of scallops into which the beautifully white 
 pulp so richly encased is indented. It therefore would 
 not be difficult to guess how many kernels the fruit con- 
 tains, which make up the scalloped pulp, could one gain 
 a slight view of the proper end of the fruit, before the 
 rind is severed in half, for developing the secret. I have 
 seen them vary from five to eight. 
 
 The durian (durio zibithinus) is another fruit, which 
 no one will forget, after once tasting or smelling it ; and 
 few, at first, who are brought to the perception of its efflu- 
 via as it gives forth its strong fragrance, will desire to 
 taste it. When the first, and I believe the only specimen 
 of this species of fruit was introduced into the ward-room 
 of the frigate, the steward was directed forthwith to bear 
 it hence, and never to bring another. It was then deemed 
 enough to smell the disgusting thing without tasting it. 
 Not deeming myself an individual of very strong preju- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 21 
 
 dices, and perhaps more curious than some others, I 
 caused my dubash to bring me a fine specimen of this fruit, 
 since our arrival here. 
 
 The natives are inordinately fond of it. and the Euro- 
 pean soon learns to love it among the most, if not the 
 most, luxurious fruit of the East. The external appear- 
 ance of the fruit is like the bread-fruit, though rougher 
 and larger, yet smaller than the jack-fruit ; the external 
 rind of the three in appearance not being very dissimilar. 
 
 The fruit when ripe splits at the lesser end, and the rind 
 being opened quite in two, exposes the white and luscious 
 and cream-like pulp, placed in different pericarps within 
 the rind, and covering a seed of the size of a large ac^rn, 
 and of the color of a light chestnut. The soft pulp 
 might easily be fancied to be cream itself, mingled with 
 the condensed juice of a roasted onion, only supposing it 
 of a consistency sufficient to adhere to the oblong seed 
 which lies imbedded in the pasty substance. The taste, 
 when one is divested of the idea of the unpleasant odor 
 of the fruit, strikes you as being rich, and you think you. 
 could and most probably would become fond of it were 
 you to eat it but a few times. And yet, it is so unlike all 
 that you have associated with fruits, that you deem it 
 some way a mistake of nature, and that it must be some 
 manufactured thing, or at least should be classed as some- 
 thing that grew beneath the ground rather than above it. 
 
 The properties of this fruit are said to be beneficial in 
 their action upon the system, though when eaten too 
 abundantly are injuriously heating. They are a tonic, 
 and otherwise congenial to the system. This fruit de- 
 mands a higher price than any other in the markets. The 
 tree producing the durian is large and lofty. The leaves 
 are long and pointed, though small in comparison with 
 the fruit. The flower grows in clusters from the stem of 
 the tree and on the large branches. Its petals are five in 
 number, of a yellowish white ; and the stamina are ar- 
 ranged in five branches, and each branch containing about 
 twelve stamina, and each stamen pointed with four an- 
 thers. When the stamina and petals fall, the empale- 
 ment resembles a fungus ; and a shape, not unlike a Scot's 
 bonnet. 
 
22 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The bread-fruit, (artocarpus incisa,) in external appear- 
 ance is somewhat like the durian. When eaten, how- 
 ever, it is boiled, or roasted in the fire. The trees are 
 seen here with the fruit in considerable quantities. The 
 leaves of the tree are deeply indented like the fig, but they 
 are larger. 
 
 The jack-fruit (artocarpus integrefolia, L.) is an im- 
 mense thing, as it is sometimes seen pendent from the very 
 stem of the tree, and growing directly out of the largest 
 branches, and sometimes weighing fifty or sixty pounds. 
 I first saw this fruit in the botanical garden near Rio de 
 Janeiro ; and it will always strike one, on his first observ- 
 ing the jack-fruit, as a thing of great peculiarity in the 
 vegetable kingdom. Of this fruit I have never eaten. 
 When it ripens a cloth is thrown over it, for the purpose 
 of protecting the fruit from the birds ; and yet it looks, in 
 its green and rough and huge exterior, of a density suffi- 
 cient to defend itself against the bills of the most daring 
 of the feathery thieves. The kernels contained within the 
 rough external coat (which, when roasted, are said to 
 have the taste of chestnuts) are enclosed in a fleshy sub- 
 stance, rich, and eventually agreeable, after a few times 
 eating it, but at first deemed too strong in smell and flavor. 
 The yellow wood of this tree is much used in various 
 ways, as timber, and for boards ; and the root affords a 
 dye. 
 
 The rambutan (nephelium lappaceum, L.) is a beauti- 
 ful fruit, to which I have already alluded, as resembling the 
 mammoth arbutus ; and you suppose them at first, when 
 at a little distance from you, a delicious dish of some trop- 
 ical strawberry. But you find, on inquiring into the "par- 
 ticulars within" the outer coat, that there is concealed 
 beneath the red and hairy covering a semi-transparent 
 pulp, of a pleasant acid taste, enveloping a single oval and 
 oblong seed. I know not but I am peculiar in my memory 
 of the beautiful fruits of the straits, but none lingers in my 
 recollection so sweetly, in its clustered beauties of the fruit- 
 dish, as the bearded and rosy rambutan. 
 
 The custard-apple, (annona squamosa,) for its kindred 
 taste, should have been placed next to the mangusteen. 
 It is more luscious rather, it is too much so to allow of 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 23 
 
 its being as freely eaten as the mangusteen or most other 
 fruits. Like rich cream and strawberries, it soon satiates, 
 while it is yet delicious. The fruit is an irregular cone, 
 of the size of a medium quince, and more rotund. It is 
 made up of lesser cones, with each its apex directed to a 
 centre within, and each including a dark seed. The pulp 
 is soft, constituting the whole of the fruit, excepting the 
 seed and the irregular external coat. It is a very choice 
 and delicate fruit. Its external color is green. The in- 
 ternal part is white. It is soft when ripe, and a slight 
 pressure of the hand will crack it open, as a well-baked 
 custard would fall to pieces on being turned from its cup. 
 
 The pomegranate (punica granatum) is a sub-acid fruit, 
 delicious to a thirsty man, and acceptable to the fastidious, 
 and gorgeous in its associations with ancient mention, and 
 the rich crimson of its flowers. The fruit would much 
 resemble, externally, the capsule of the poppy, were the 
 poppy's seed-vessel as large as the pomegranate, which 
 is the size of a quince. When the fruit is broken open it 
 presents different layers of seeds, of the size of the seeds 
 of the sun-flower, but of a clear and juicy substance, en- 
 casing the harder kernel. These seeds are sometimes red, 
 and generally tinged with coloring matter varying from 
 the pearly transparent to the deepest crimson. We found 
 this fruit very fine at Muscat, and it exists in still greater 
 perfection around the shores of the Mediterranean. 
 
 The pine-apples are in their perfection here. They are 
 deliciously sweet, immense in their size, and abundant as 
 is the miserable pice, of the currency ; four of which, being 
 equivalent to a penny, will purchase one of these luxurious 
 cones. There is one variety more beautiful than I have 
 elsewhere seen. A hedge of these, with their straw- 
 colored leaves, I saw lining an extensive circular plot in 
 the fruit-grounds of a friend whom I visited but yesterday. 
 They would delight the eye, and yet more the taste, of 
 some of my friends of New- York, could they eat them in 
 the perfection in which they are served here. 
 
 The mango (mangifera indica) is a fruit, in its external 
 appearance, resembling a small melon, but is a drupe of 
 the plum kind, being three, four, and five inches in length, 
 and two or three in diameter. At Colombo we found it 
 
 29* 
 
24 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 in its perfection ; and there it is regarded as a choice va- 
 riety among the different ornaments of the fruit-dish. The 
 external color of the fruit is green ; the internal pulp is a 
 rich yellow, and adheres to the large seed as the cling- 
 peach adheres to the stone. 
 
 The papaya, (carica papaja,) like the preceding in its 
 external appearance, though larger and yellow when ripe, 
 is like a smooth melon, not striking for its flavor, though 
 a rich and healthy fruit. Its seeds are more peculiar, fill- 
 ing the internal long and scalloped cavity. They are of 
 the size of a swollen mustard seed, and flavored like the 
 water-cress. The pulp is a reddish and rich yellow. 
 
 The guava, (psidium pomiferurn.) from which the rich 
 jelly from the West Indies is made, is not very unlike a 
 pear in its external appearance. The flavor, both in taste 
 and to the smell, some are greatly pleased with, others 
 dislike. To myself it is too strong and sickening, to be 
 agreeable. The guava jelly, on the contrary, is a deli- 
 cious sweet of agreeable flavors. 
 
 The blimbing (averrhoa carambola) is a peculiar, acid, 
 pentagonal fruit. Its seeds are flat. It reminds you of 
 a craw-fish, although nothing like it ; only it looks some- 
 what strange, with its pentagonal ridges and green goose- 
 berry-like color and transparency, to be hanging upon a 
 tree as its real fruit. I remember first to have tasted it 
 in a garden in Rio de Janeiro, South America, and it was 
 very grateful, in its abundance of sub-acid juice, to the 
 thirsty lip. 
 
 The lanseh is very like bunches of gooseberries in re- 
 semblance of external appearance, hung up on the branches 
 of a large tree, and like that berry serve to make very 
 good tarts, when well baked and properly sweetened ; or 
 rather, when properly sweetened and well baked. 
 
 The tamarind tree somewhat resembles the thorny lo- 
 cust, and the fruit hangs pendent like the pod of the honey- 
 locust, and appears like bean-pods pendent from the boughs. 
 They are used by the natives among other acid ingredients, 
 in making their curries. 
 
 The jambu (eugenia mallaccensis et aquea, of L.) is 
 a beautiful thing resembling the pear more than any thing 
 else, save its own self, in shape, but less tapering at the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 25 
 
 stalk with a smooth and very fine skin, tinged with red, 
 and deeper and lighter shades of the pink and the rose. 
 The handsome tree that produces it, is regular and conical 
 in its shape, and its foliage of deep-green and pointed 
 leaves. The fruit of one species is white inside, the other 
 tinged with pink. Its smell and taste is of the flavor of 
 roses. Nothing can surpass the beauty of the blossoms. 
 The numerous stamina are long and of a pink color, ex- 
 quisite and bright. 
 
 I might continue the list and description of the fruits, 
 so numerous and varied, which are found in the Malacca 
 countries, and to be purchased in the markets here, and 
 most of them seen growing on the young plantations of the 
 residents at Singapore. I shall however only enumerate 
 the names of those so familiar to the eye of the North 
 American, common to the tropics, and found in the markets 
 from the West Indies. 
 
 The plantains are in their perfection here ; the green 
 variety is the best the red, which we have not before 
 seen, are very fine and most peculiar. The natives num- 
 ber some forty or fifty varieties, including the bananas, 
 which are very fine flavored, and abundant as the lazy 
 native population need desire to support their life of inac- 
 tivity. 
 
 The best oranges of the market are brought from 
 China, while the fruit grows in any abundance here when 
 cultivated. The oranges brought here in the Chinese 
 junks are extremely fine in their flavor, though they can 
 but little compare with the magnificent fruit of the same 
 genus, of Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 I might sooner have mentioned the sour-sop, a very 
 agreeable fruit when perfectly ripe. I like to associate 
 the time and the occasion of rny first tasting these fruits, 
 and the persons with whom they were partaken, with the 
 memory and mention of the fruits themselves. The sour- 
 sop is rather a large, green, and irregular conical fruit, 
 with a rough external rind and a soft succulent pulp. The 
 first of this fruit which I had seen, was a noble specimen 
 of its kind ; and when I had taken my leave of the family 
 I was visiting, I found the said specimen of the sour-sop 
 gently reposing on a little worked mat in my palanquin, 
 
26 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 where it had been conveyed after I had mentioned that I 
 had not before met with the fruit. A few days served to 
 ripen it, as it reposed in its place on my bureau on ship- 
 board ; and the sour-sop itself and that little mat on which 
 it reposed, shall serve often to recall my Scotch friends 
 and their politeness. 
 
 Besides the abundance and great variety of fruits in 
 the straits which are mostly being cultivated on the plan- 
 tations in the neighborhood of Singapore, the pepper, 
 coffee, nutmegs and cloves, are produced in great perfec- 
 tion and considerable quantities. The large plantation of 
 Mr. Princeps, within a few minutes' ride of Singapore, 
 includes in its spacious grounds of some hundred acres, 
 all these varieties of productions and fruit-trees, though 
 most of them are of but few years' growth. 
 
 The pepper plantations in the neighborhood of Singa- 
 pore are cultivated principally by the Chinese. The vine 
 is of the creeper kind, raising its knotted stem to twenty 
 or thirty feet, unpruned, but generally kept down from 
 ten to twelve feet in height, as producing more fruit thus 
 than when suffered to reach a greater elevation. At each 
 joint of the stem, the plant puts out its fibrous tendrils, 
 which adhere to the prop, up which it climbs. Were the 
 plant suffered to run upon the ground, these tendrils, as in 
 the case of the strawberry vine, would shoot into the 
 earth ; but like the ivy, in such a case, would exhibit no 
 fruit. The prop therefore is necessary to encourage the 
 plant to throw out its bearing shoots. The leaves of the 
 plant are deep green, heart-shaped and pointed, but they 
 have not the pungent taste of the fruit. The stem of the 
 pepper vine soon becomes woody, and in a few years 
 acquires considerable thickness ; some of the stems I have 
 seen measuring at the foot of the stalk three or four inches 
 in circumference. The branches are generally short, 
 brittle, and readily separate at their union with the stem. 
 The blossom of the plant is a small white flower, and the 
 appearance of the fruit, as found in commerce, is univer- 
 sally known. On the vine, however, it hangs in long 
 clusters of some thirty or fifty grains, each grain adhering 
 to the stalk, resembling some kinds of the smallest wild 
 grapes. The grain, while the fruit is young and after it 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 27 
 
 has reached its full size, is green in its color, but when 
 ripe and in its perfection, is of a bright red color. 
 
 This plant is propagated by cuttings, which are general- 
 ly placed, with their props either of large stakes or natural 
 trees, some six feet apart, the vine commencing to bear 
 after three years, and continuing to do so for several more. 
 As soon as the berries begin to redden, the bunches are 
 gathered, not waiting for all the corns to have changed, 
 as by so doing the riper grains would fall from the bunch. 
 The bunches being collected in baskets, are spread upon 
 mats to dry in the sun. The changes in the weather have 
 but little effect upon the berries to injure them, which soon, 
 in their curing state, turn black and oecome shrivelled, as 
 they are seen when prepared for transportation and for 
 consumption throughout the world, as the black pepper of 
 commerce. 
 
 The white pepper was formerly supposed to be a differ- 
 ent species from the black, and esteemed to be the superior 
 of the two, and a higher price was demanded and given 
 for it. But it is the same article with the black pepper, 
 having gone through a different operation in its curing. 
 It is more mild ; and the mode of preparing it is by put- 
 ting the grains in baskets, into water running water 
 being preferred the excavations for the purpose being 
 made by the side of running streams, or else the pepper is 
 put into* stagnant water. This process causes the external 
 coat to swell, after which, the grains being exposed to the 
 sun, the exterior pellicle, by rubbing in the hands and win- 
 nowing, is separated from the other part. Whether, in 
 fact, this is an improvement to this article, is a matter of 
 dispute. The white pepper is to be regarded as superior 
 in one particular at least. It is composed of the best 
 grains of the bunch, as none but the full and well-ripened 
 berries will make the white pepper. It evidently must 
 lose some of its strength from exposure in the water; and 
 though the white pepper has the advantage of the quality 
 of the grains, the tegument of which it has been deprived 
 is deemed to possess a flavor more aromatic than the heart, 
 though more pungent. 
 
28 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 THE NUTMEG. 
 
 I conclude this brief description of some of the fruits of 
 the straits, with the beautiful nutmeg, as it is seen growing 
 in its place. 
 
 The tree that produces this aromatic and highly-valued 
 article among the spices, is an evergreen of great beauty, 
 conical in its shape, and reaching from twenty to twenty- 
 five feet in height, with its branches thickly decorated with 
 their polished deep-green leaves, like the foliage of the 
 orange, rising quite from the ground to the top. The fruit, 
 with its yellow external tegument, resembling a middling- 
 sized pear, with a smooth skin, lies thick among this green 
 foliage. When the fruit is ripe, the thick rind cracks open, 
 so as to exhibit the beautiful white of the internal part of 
 the rind in contrast with the deep-red mace which over- 
 lays the black shell containing the kernel or the nutmeg, 
 as we have it in commerce. It is an exquisite thing as 
 seen in this state. The shells which contain the kernels, 
 or the nutmegs as we generally get them from the shops, 
 are almost a jet polished black. Over this is woven in its 
 interlacing threads, the mace of commerce. This dark of 
 the shell and red of the mace in contrast with the beautiful 
 white edges of the split rind and the yellow of the external 
 tegument, form together the most beautiful specimen of 
 nature's colorings and contrasts I have ever beheld, and 
 is worthy of all the young fancies we have ever drawn of 
 the beauty of the spice-tree. We thus see that the nutmeg 
 and the rnace of commerce are the product of the same 
 tree. The leaf and the blossom are strongly aromatic, 
 like the fruit. There are numerous plantations of this 
 spice in the neighborhood of Singapore. But as yet they 
 are young, and extending, the soil being deemed particu- 
 larly appropriate for the growth of this valuable article. 
 The government nutmeg-grove is perhaps the most ex- 
 tensive, or rather, at the present moment, is containing 
 the largest number of well-grown trees ; while other plan- 
 tations of greater extent in the number of their young 
 plants, have also a considerable number of bearing trees. 
 While walking through the plantation of Mr. Princeps, the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 29 
 
 servants, then gathering the nutmegs from the trees, (a 
 daily work the year round,) informed us that they general- 
 ly secured 400 ripe ones in a day. The produce of these 
 plantations eventually will be very considerable, most of 
 the gentlemen of Singapore having encouraged the growth 
 of the nutmeg tree upon their country premises in the neigh- 
 borhood of this beautifully situated town. 
 
 CALLS ON VARIOUS PERSONS. 
 
 Since the arrival of our ships at Singapore, I have 
 several times called upon the missionary families, now res- 
 ident at this place. On the 13th dined with Rev. Mr. A. 
 Stronoch of the Scotch mission. Scotland and the Scots 
 have always possessed an interest in my associations. 
 The Scots however cease to please when they begin to 
 forget their own highland and lowland associations, and 
 manifest their preferences in commending the English, to 
 the neglect of their own more peculiar characteristics. 
 Were I a Scotchman I should never think of looking to 
 England for a national or individual fame, on which to 
 value myself, when a history so rich in story and a ro- 
 mance so storied in history were glowing before me of 
 my own native Scotland. 
 
 There are two brothers here, who are attached to the 
 London Missionary Society. They appear to be very 
 worthy men, and their wives greatly esteemed. The 
 ladies have just enough of the Scotch in their accent to 
 render their conversation of deeper interest to me than it 
 would have been without it. It reminds one that he is 
 conversing with one of Scotia's daughters, from that land 
 which we have learned to love for its intellect, and worth, 
 and story, and song. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. White, the English chaplain at Singa- 
 pore, is a gentleman of great mildness of character, and 
 has the reputation of some cleverness in the natural 
 sciences. He seems to be fond of them, at least. He 
 is a Cambridge scholar, and all Cambridge students seem 
 particularly fond of their alma mater. Indeed all the 
 English chaplains whom I have met in the East, do credit 
 to the service to which they are attached, so far as their 
 
30 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 general intelligence is concerned, and in most instances have 
 exhibited the practical effects of the principles of the reli- 
 gion which they teach, in their Christian action and pious 
 lives. The chaplains in the Indian service are allowed to re- 
 turn home, at their pleasure, after having spent a certain 
 number of years, and retire upon a pension of about two 
 thousand dollars per annum during their lives, after leaving 
 the service. Their salary while in the Indian service, in most 
 instances, is five thousand dollars, and upwards, per an- 
 num. The residence occupied by the Rev. Mr. W. is a 
 commanding one the whole sheet of beautiful water, 
 expanding itself in full view from the verandah, dotted 
 over by the huge and nondescript Chinese junks the 
 Cochin-China yellow-sided war-ships, bearing the mer- 
 chandise of the king the yet better-looking ships of the 
 king of Siam the finer specimens of naval architecture, 
 as seen in the French, English, and American merchant- 
 men and still further out and beyond them all, our own 
 two gallant cruisers, in the beauty of their squared yards 
 and tall spars, and graceful and perfect hamper, symme- 
 try, and order, filling up the picture, and presenting to 
 the view of the gazer a charming nautical scene. 
 
 All shipping lie moored by their anchors in these east- 
 ern ports the surf and the exposure of the winds being 
 too great to admit of the construction and use of docks. 
 And beneath you, as you look from this residence, lie the 
 crowded bazaars of the Chinese, and the Moor, and the 
 Malay ; while on the more distant plain and along the 
 northern beach extend the better houses of the English 
 and American residents. The hill-side, up which you 
 wind to reach the prospect which I have described, is 
 covered with the luxuriant and beautiful nutmeg grove, 
 interspersed with the aracca palm and the banana, and 
 other fruits of this tropical clime, with the shrubs and 
 gaudy blossoms which give forth their bright colors but 
 faint perfume to the moist and balmy air of the morning 
 and evening, but intensely heated atmosphere of the noon- 
 day hour. 
 
 My visits to this amiable family have always been 
 agreeable. Mrs. W. executes with taste on the piano- 
 forte ; and at different times has gratified me with a num- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 31 
 
 ber of old specimens of Handel's composition. I am sure 
 that most of the modern belles would have been surprised 
 by the absence of most of the fashionable music of the 
 day ; and indeed I was almost ashamed of the tendency 
 of my own inquiries, from habit, for the love ditties and 
 " mamma's favorites" of the modern school. " Bid me 
 discourse" carried me far over the seas, and recalled in 
 gentle memories to my mind somebody who has sung it 
 for me at home, with effect and with an indescribable and 
 delightful thrill, which comes over the spirit when the 
 soul of song awakes. And " The Pilot" I remember 
 how the same somebody told me that Miss G., who sings 
 so sweetly, taught her to sing it. I love a cricket-singer, 
 one who, in the simplicity of a young heart, seated on an 
 ottoman at your side, on a winter's evening, when all is 
 cheer and comfortable and still, and the coal-fire is burn- 
 ing, and a snow-storm without is raging, will look you 
 kindly in the face ; and with an eye floating in affection, 
 sentiment, and artless nature, will give you the sweet 
 song you desire or the plaintive melody and, perhaps, 
 once and ever, as if some wild freak of witchery, unusual 
 but natural when occurring, had come over her spirit, will 
 sport with you in a laughing recitative. There is a charm 
 of melody in the note of such, whose eyes melt in sorrow 
 or dilate in joyousness, as the sentiment glows in the mel- 
 ancholy, or expresses emotions of the peaceful and the 
 happy. And such is the note of somebody ; and no vesper 
 strain from deepest vault of Abbey, nor swell of chorus 
 from fullest orchestra, nor softest music of the full band 
 on the lake, at moonlight, ever threw such a spell upon 
 the soul as the artless song of that dearly remembered 
 somebody. You would not wish to conceal your tears 
 when she sang for you "The Mistletoe Bough." And 
 you would have thought that some simple and sweet rosy- 
 cheeked milk-maid, who, in her fresh health and purity, 
 sports free as the lark in the morning country-air, was at 
 your side, as she had unaccountably become sad and pale 
 as the lily that had drooped before some sudden blast, 
 while she sang "Kathleen O'More." And then you would 
 be aroused and surprised that so late an hour had come 
 when she repeated the Scotch ditty, 
 
 30 
 
32 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " O they're a' noddin, nid nid noddin, 
 O they're a' noddin at our house at hame." 
 
 And I remember how, and when, and where she has sung 
 for me " The Pilot." And Mrs. W. repeated it, this even- 
 ing, with feeling. And the words are worth more than 
 the trouble of transcribing them here, but space forbids. 
 
 I was grateful to Mrs. VV. for the music she gave me, 
 as indeed I am for all real harmonies in these eastern re- 
 gions, where music is almost unknown, or at least almost 
 altogether neglected. 
 
 The evening ride, near sunset, is an agreeable pastime 
 for an hour, and very generally indulged in by the resi- 
 dents of Singapore. In company with Mrs. White and 
 my little pet, Mrs. W.'s " only and beautiful," I enjoyed 
 the evening air at an hour so calm and balmy, when the 
 wing of the zephyr is beginning to feel the pressure of 
 the falling and sweet-scented dew. The Singapore rose, 
 decorating the side-ways as you ride from town, is an 
 abundant and beautiful shrub; and the rosa vincula every- 
 where through the streets meets the eye as a graceful 
 and luxurious thing. Little B., my little pet alluded to, 
 (God bless her,) was bare-footed ; so comfortable did her 
 little white feet and naked arms seem in this warm clime, 
 encased in loose cambric ruffles. Innocence and flowers; 
 how just and beautiful is the association ! 
 
 Among the missionary families now resident at Singa- 
 pore is the Rev. Mr. Davenport and lady, who are tempo- 
 rarily here from Siam, being attached to the Baptist mis- 
 sion at Bankok. Mr. D. is now attending to the casting 
 of a fount of Siamese type, and expects in a month or two 
 again to return with Mrs. D. to Bankok. They are from 
 Virginia; and Mrs. D. is a sprightly young lady, who left 
 her native land with her husband at the age of seventeen; 
 and I was happy in spending the day that commemorates 
 her twentieth birthday (fifth of March, 1839,) at their 
 residence, since our arrival at Singapore. She has accom- 
 plished a knowledge of the Siamese with great facility, 
 and I have in my possession some manuscript translations 
 by herself which she was kind enough to present to me. 
 I shall remember, with most cordial feelings of friendship 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 33 
 
 and interest, their generous efforts to make my stay at 
 Singapore pleasant to myself, and my memories of it al- 
 together of the agreeable kind. Their hospitality was 
 extended with a warmth that declared its sincerity ; and I 
 am sure I shall not forget the social hour, the brief but 
 ever agreeable interview, and the family worship, as we 
 have knelt together at the family altar at the hour of even- 
 ing parting. Indeed, this act of family worship has been 
 a source of great pleasure to me in my intercourse with 
 numbers of the agreeable families at whose houses it was 
 my pleasure to visit. At the Rev. Mr. White's, the Holy 
 Book and the Common Prayer reminded me that I was 
 worshipping with friends of a common creed as well as 
 of kindred feelings. The Bible and the Hymn-book at 
 another dwelling would tell me that I was with Presby- 
 terian brethren, but Christian and devoted hearts. Again, 
 the Dutch Reformed, and the Congregationalist, and Inde- 
 pendents, and Baptists, with bosoms swelling with kindred 
 sympathies and kindred views, and kindred expectations 
 beyond the life of earth. The very consciousness that 
 most of these were American Christians was quite enough 
 to warm the heart in Christian love, and cause one in the 
 social intercourse to forget, or to waive all distinctive 
 principles in church discipline and orders, where intelli- 
 gence and devotion characterized the mind and swelled 
 the heart. 
 
 In Mr. D.'s family are two or three Siamese. The 
 subject of phrenology having been made a topic of con- 
 versation, these Siamese, together with a Chinaman, were 
 desirous that the doctor, as they styled myself, should tell 
 them their characters. Mrs. D. was desirous of gratifying 
 them. I make no pretensions to a practical knowledge 
 of this science, nor am I any way strenuous as to the 
 principles it is said by its advocates to develop and to 
 confirm. Whether true in its deductions or the contrary, 
 it is but the application of the science of the mind, or 
 mental philosophy, to certain physical localities of the 
 cranium. I was willing to be amused, and the Siamese 
 teacher presented himself with considerable gravity, and 
 departed with a full persuasion that I possessed greater 
 knowledge of men than the Siamese priests. 
 
34 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Another less intelligent but apparently good-natured 
 Siamese retained his gravity and composure for a short 
 time, but, finally, put both hands over his face in astonish- 
 ment, and rushed from the room exclaiming, true true 
 all true. He again entered, after a while, and begged 
 that I would tell him how long before he would have a 
 perfect knowledge of the EngLsh language. 
 
 A Chinaman, in some way connected with the mission, 
 also presented himself, being equally curious with the 
 Siamese, and desired me "to speak about his head." I 
 knew nothing of this celestial, and the examination was 
 entirely unexpected; and I felt no disposition to trifle with 
 either of these persons. This gentleman of the long braid, 
 however, seeming to linger in profound expectation, as if 
 something most certainly would be developed, I was un- 
 willing to disappoint him altogether. I assured him that 
 I could not pretend to describe his character, but without 
 knowing whether it were true or not, I should think that 
 he was a believer in ghosts. The celestial raised his arms 
 akimbo, turned his oblique eyes upwards, and exclaimed, 
 "Yes, I believe in them, and / fear them much." His 
 unanticipated astonishment excited a slight smile at his 
 expense, and he left the room, perhaps to burn Josh-sticks, 
 certainly to procure me a present of oranges, as I had an 
 occasion soon afterwards to know, as he brought them to 
 Mr. D.'s for me. 
 
 Mrs. Davenport has upon her tables numbers of Siam- 
 ese curiosities consisting of their books, coins, and dei- 
 ties. The books are things strikingly curious to the eye 
 of the American being formed of a continuous sheet of 
 paper, gathered into folds like the plaits of a ruffle, and 
 yards in length when unfolded. They vary in size from 
 three or four inches in length and two broad, to a foot in 
 length and four inches broad ; when folded, each piece, 
 generally three or four inches thick, constituting a volume. 
 The paper is generally black, and the letters traced with 
 white ink. "As black as ink, and as white as a sheet of 
 paper," therefore, are expressions which might need a little 
 explanation to a Siamese. 
 
 The Siamese silver and gold coins are small pieces of 
 bullion, flattened on each end, so as to compress the whole 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 35 
 
 into an irregular globulous form, on which the die leaves 
 two small impressions. In case of a scarcity of small shot 
 and a plenty of coin, during a war, the Siamese would 
 have in their silver and gold currency a very good substi- 
 tute for bullets and buckshot. This coin is a very curious 
 thing in contrast with our ideas of the flat surface of the 
 American and European money. 
 
 The Siamese, in their religion, are Budhists credu- 
 lous and superstitious believers in transmigration of 
 souls, in dreams, and omens derived from a thousand 
 sources. Their sacred books are said to be considerably 
 numerous. 
 
 I give here a few extracts from two works, which Mrs. 
 Davenport has translated for me, and presented in a man- 
 uscript, most beautifully written in her own hand. One 
 of them is called 
 
 THE SIAMESE DREAM BOOK. 
 
 The writer introduces the subject of the work thus : 
 
 " In former times a great prophet and magician, who 
 had much wisdom, and could foretell all future events, gave 
 the following interpretation of signs and dreams. Whoso- 
 ever sees signs and visions, if he wishes to know whether 
 they forebode good or evil, whether happiness or misery, 
 if he dream of any animals, insects, birds, or fishes, and 
 wishes to know the interpretation, let him examine this 
 book." 
 
 Of these signs and dreams I make extracts promiscu- 
 ously from the manuscript : 
 
 " If a person be alone, and an insect or reptile fall before 
 the face, but the individual see it only without touching it, 
 it denotes that some heavenly being will bestow great 
 blessings on him. If it fall to the right side, it denotes 
 that all his friends, wherever scattered abroad, shall again 
 meet him in peace. If it fall behind the person, it denotes 
 that he shall be slandered, and maliciously talked of by his 
 friends and acquaintances. If, in falling, it strike the face, 
 it denotes that the individual will soon be married. If it 
 strike the right arm, it denotes that the individual's wishes, 
 whatever they are, shall be accomplished. If it strike the 
 
 30* 
 
36 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 left hand, it denotes that the individual will lose his friends 
 by death. If it strike the foot, it denotes that whatever 
 trouble the individual may have had, all shall vanish, and 
 he shall reach the summit of happiness. If. after touching 
 the foot, it should crawl upwards to the head, it denotes 
 that the individual shall be raised to high office by the 
 rulers of his country. If it crawl to the right side, it de- 
 notes that the person shall hear bad tidings of some absent 
 friend. If the insect or reptile fall without touching the 
 body, and immediately flee towards the northeast, it de- 
 notes deep but not lasting trouble ; if towards the north- 
 west, it denotes that the person shall receive numerous 
 and valuable presents ; if towards the southeast, it denotes 
 that he shall receive great riches, and afterwards go to a 
 distant land ; or that he shall go to a distant land, and there 
 amass great wealth. 
 
 " If an animal, insect, bird, or reptile cross the path of 
 any one as he walks along, the animal coming from the 
 right, let him not proceed some calamity will surely hap- 
 pen to him in the way. If the animal come from the left, 
 let him proceed good fortune shall surely happen to him. 
 If the animal proceed before him in the same road in which 
 he intends to travel, it denotes good fortune to him. 
 
 " If the left ear tingle repeatedly, it denotes that the in- 
 dividual shall receive evil tidings from abroad. If the right 
 ear tingle, it denotes that he shall receive speedy and pleas- 
 ing intelligence from absent friends. 
 
 '* If the upper lip tremble repeatedly, it denotes that the 
 individual shall receive presents of the most rare and deli- 
 cious dishes. If the lower lip tremble, it denotes severe 
 illness. 
 
 " I now beg to interpret the signs of the night. If at 
 midnight an individual hears the noises of animals in the 
 house where he resides, 1 will show him whether they in- 
 dicate good or evil. If any insect cry * click, click, click/ 
 lie will possess real treasures while he abides there. If it 
 cry ' kek, kek,' it is an evil omen both to that and the neigh- 
 boring houses. If it cry * chit, chit,' it denotes that he shall 
 always feed upon the most sumptuous provisions. If it 
 cry * keat, keat,' in a loud shrill voice, it denotes that his 
 residence there shall be attended with evil. 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 37 
 
 " I now beg to interpret with regard to the spider. If 
 a spider on the ceiling utter a low tremulous moan, it de- 
 notes that the individual who hears the noise shall either 
 change his residence, or that his goods shall be stolen. 
 If it utter the same voice on the outside of the house, and 
 afterwards the spider crawl to the head of the bed, it de- 
 notes troublesome visitors and quarrels to the residents. 
 
 " I now beg to interpret with regard to dreams and vis- 
 ions of the night. If an individual dream on Sunday, 
 whether it be good or evil, it pertains to others, and will not 
 affect the happiness or misery of the person himself. If 
 any one dream on Monday, whether good or evil, it will 
 affect his friends and relations, but not himself. If on Tues- 
 day, it forebodes good or evil to the parents of the dream- 
 er. If on Wednesday, the omen pertains to the consort 
 and children of the individual who dreams. If on Thurs- 
 day, it relates to the dreamer's teachers or benefactors. If 
 on Friday, the omen belongs to the servants or cattle of 
 the individual. If on Saturday, it forebodes good or ill to 
 the dreamer himself. 
 
 " If any one dream of having or wearing handsome 
 clothing, it denotes great peace and prosperity. 
 
 " If one dream of receiving a ring, it denotes either a 
 speedy marriage or the birth of a child. 
 
 " If one dream of putting on a gold ring, it denotes 
 that the individual, if married, shall be blessed with chil- 
 dren of great beauty ; or, if single, with a beautiful con- 
 sort. 
 
 " If one dream of putting on new clothes, it denotes 
 speedy marriage. 
 
 " If one dream of seeing his house consumed by fire, 
 and of being much burned, let him take a lighted candle, 
 flowers, and other offerings, to the brink of a river or ca- 
 nal, and there relate his dream to some friend. If he omit 
 this, some great calamity shall surely befall him. 
 
 " If he dream of walking on the air, it denotes that he 
 shall have great wisdom and be renowned for learning. 
 
 " If he dream of being clothed entirely in red, let him 
 beware lest he speedily suffer a violent death. 
 
 * If he dream of seeing a heavenly being of great beau- 
 ty, or the spire of a palace, it is an omen of good. 
 
38 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " If he dream of a house full of new-born infants, it de- 
 notes that his servants shall continue faithful and true to 
 his interests. 
 
 " If he dream of sleeping in a boat with one foot in wa- 
 ter and afterwards his head falling in, let him not relate 
 the dream to any one, but seek a large tree, and seating 
 himself under it, there tell over the dream, and great good 
 shall result. 
 
 " If he dream of seeing a princess, let him relate the 
 dream to himself on the bank of a river or canal, and 
 prosperity shall surely attend him. 
 
 " If he dream of seeing a woman of beautiful form, his 
 consort shall exactly resemble her. 
 
 " If he dream of reading prayers or sacred books, it 
 denotes that all his sins shall be pardoned by the gods. 
 
 " If one dream of holding an umbrella to protect him- 
 self from the rays of the sun, it denotes that he shall rise 
 to greater eminence than any of his ancestors or family 
 have done. 
 
 " If one dream of blowing a trumpet, or beating drums 
 and kettles, he shall be raised to an office of great emi- 
 nence. 
 
 " If he dream of placing an image of Budh in a temple, 
 it is an omen of supreme happiness. 
 
 *' If he dream of being struck by a thunderbolt, it de- 
 notes his speedy and violent death. 
 
 " If he dream of travelling on a tiger or an alligator to 
 some distant land, it denotes that he shall be regarded with 
 terror and suspicion by all his acquaintances. 
 
 " If one dream of the entrails being torn out of his body, 
 it denotes continued health to himself, family, and friends. 
 
 " If he dream of riding in an ox-cart, let him beware, it 
 is an omen of evil. 
 
 " If one dream of eating the sun or moon, it denotes that 
 he shall be a great prophet and magician. 
 
 " If he dream of being bitten by a tiger, it denotes that 
 lie shall receive valuable presents from a beautiful woman. 
 
 " If he dream of seeing the moon fall and then eating it, 
 it is an omen of the greatest possible good, let him remem- 
 ber it. 
 
 " If he dream of bathing in a pool, dressed entirely in 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 39 
 
 white, of being able to walk on the water, and bringing up 
 the lotus-flower from the pool, it denotes a speedy and 
 happy marriage. 
 
 " If one dream of gathering flowers and placing them 
 behind the ear, let him offer sacrifices to the gods, and he 
 shall speedily obtain a beautiful wife. 
 
 " If one dream of walking on roads covered with gold 
 and silver, let him carefully offer sacrifices, and all his de- 
 sires shall be gratified. 
 
 " If he dream of losing a hand and ear, he shall speedily 
 be seated on a throne. 
 
 " If he dream of seeing many dead people, it denotes 
 that he shall be free from trouble all his life. 
 
 " If he dream of having the right leg bitten by a snake, 
 whatever property he may have lost shall be speedily re- 
 covered. 
 
 " If he dream of seeing a toad enter a house, he shall 
 possess great treasures. 
 
 " If he dream of being fanned by another, he shall be- 
 come a magistrate of great authority. 
 
 " If he dream that he sees a great many persons dance 
 together, it denotes that he will die in a prison. 
 
 " If he dream of seeing a lady splendidly attired, he shall 
 pass all his days amid peace and plenty. 
 
 " If one dream of stabbing himself, he shall be made a 
 noble of high rank. 
 
 " If he dream of his body emitting the fragrance of flow- 
 ers, it denotes that he shall have a beautiful daughter, who 
 shall be the consort of a king. 
 
 " If he dream of eating the raw hand of a dead man, it 
 denotes that he shall be king of his country. 
 
 " If he dream of eating the head of a man, dressed up 
 as food, he shall possess great treasures, but shall die at an 
 early age. 
 
 " If one dream of his teeth dropping out, it denotes sick- 
 ness and death. 
 
 " If one dream of his own death, it denotes long contin- 
 ued prosperity. 
 
 " If he dream of seeing a woman adorned with red flow- 
 ers, clothed entirely in red, and having her body painted 
 red, it denotes that in seven days he shall die. 
 
40 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " If he dream of seeing a woman clothed in black, and 
 holding black flowers, it denotes the stealing of his goods 
 and his own death. 
 
 '* If he dream of an elephant standing over the mouth 
 of a water-jar, he shall possess rank and affluence, and all 
 his friends shall take refuge in him. 
 
 " If one dream of weeping much, he shall see pleasant 
 sights. 
 
 " If he dream of having the flesh cut off his bones, it 
 denotes elevation of rank. 
 
 " If he dream of his eyelashes coming out, it denotes 
 that his money and treasures shall be stolen by a woman. 
 
 " If he dream of a frog eating the sun and moon, it de- 
 notes continued happiness. 
 
 ** If he dream of falling down and rising without injury, 
 it is an omen of good. 
 
 " If he dream of being in great distress, let him make 
 offerings, it is an omen of good. 
 
 " If he dream of being hung, it denotes good fortune. 
 
 " If he dream of stretching out his tongue, eyes, and 
 nose, it forebodes a violent and distressing headache. 
 
 " If he dream of being borne on the shoulders of others 
 and attended by music and rejoicings, it forebodes the death 
 of his consort and children. 
 
 " If he dream of seeing a bat on the roof of his house, 
 it denotes the supreme favor of the Deity. 
 
 " If he dream of seeing a star of uncommon splendor fall 
 into his house, his consort shall be the daughter of a king." 
 
 Not being a strenuous believer in dreams myself, I have 
 sought to select a few specimens rather of the curious and 
 characteristic kind than those of general application from 
 this manuscript interpretation of the Siamese Dream Book. 
 It would be curious, were the whole of it published, to trace 
 out the resemblances between many of the dreams (some 
 of them embracing the precise words) and those in modern 
 times ; and if the modern omen derived not its origin from 
 the Siamese Dream Book, the omen of the modern and of 
 the dreamers among the Siamese must have had a com- 
 mon origin. And it would still further be curious to run 
 the parallel between these signs and omens and those of 
 the Greeks and Romans, some of which are so strikingly 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 41 
 
 similar that their origin seems to point to a common fount 
 of superstition and credulity, all taking us back to a com- 
 mon people and ancestry. 
 
 The manuscript from which I have been transcribing 
 concludes with the following paragraph : 
 
 " The interpretation of dreams is ended. Whoever has 
 the foregoing dreams, whether man or woman, may rely 
 upon the interpretation here given. If one dream in the 
 first watch of the night, after eight months the dream 
 shall be accomplished. If he dream in the second watch, 
 after four days the dream shall be fulfilled. If he dream 
 in the third watch, in one day the result shall be made 
 known. If he dream in the fourth watch of the night, 
 the period for the accomplishment of the dream is uncer- 
 tain. 
 
 " The end of the Siamese Dream Book." 
 
 There is much of the customs and the manners and the 
 religion and characteristic modes of the thinking of the Si- 
 amese to be noted in this otherwise uninteresting work, to 
 the more enlightened Christian. The allusions in it to the 
 occasional fate of the moon, induces me to introduce in this 
 connection, a curious paper, derived from the same source 
 as the manuscript Dream Book. It shows how a nation's 
 superstition modifies their philosophy, religion, and enters 
 into all their habits of thought connected with their private 
 and public life. 
 
 "THE MOON DEVOURED BY RAHU. 
 
 " I will relate a story concerning what happened when 
 Budh had perfected himself in Chetuwau Temple, in the 
 city of Sawatthi, in South Behar. When the moon was 
 full it was seized by Rahu, who hid its beams and obscured 
 its brightness. 
 
 " In the morning the attendants of Gandana came in 
 haste, and having bowed their heads in adoration, told him 
 what had happened. Seeing their terror, his compassion 
 was excited, and he said to them, ' Cheer up, my lords, be 
 of good heart, and listen to a story of three tewas (heav- 
 enly beings) who were brothers. In ancient times, since 
 which creatures have been transmigrating through seve- 
 
42 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ral hundred systems of worlds, there lived a man of hon- 
 orable race, named Kunla, in the capital of Hongsawadi, 
 who had three sons. The title of the first was Lord 
 Watio ; of the second, Lord Khun ; and of the third, 
 Lord Ratthako. On one occasion, when alone in a jungle, 
 they took their food and curry-put to cook their dinner in 
 haste. The elder mixed the food, the second prepared 
 the vegetables, and the younger took wood and built a 
 fire under the rice-pot. While thus employed, the smoke 
 from the fire affecting the eyes of the elder, he broke out 
 in abusive language to his two brothers, upon which, the 
 second, being vexed, snatched a ladle from the hand of 
 the elder and beat the head of the younger brother, who 
 in his turn being enraged, uttered the following impreca- 
 tion against his two brothers : ' Hereafter, whatever pow- 
 er you may attain to, may I exceed you ten thousand times, 
 in order to tease and annoy you, until I have avenged my- 
 self,' thus laying aside his anger to a future state. 
 
 "At length, after these brothers had transmigrated through 
 many states, they were born again as three brothers, in the 
 days of Gandana. And going in company to make offer- 
 ings to him, the first put a golden cup into his begging- 
 box, the second put a silver one, and the third gave a 
 black curry-pot, after which they entreated that their fu- 
 ture state might correspond with their several offerings ; 
 and Gandana bestowed his blessing upon them three times 
 in succession. When their life on earth was finished, they 
 ascended to heaven, where the elder became the sun, the 
 second the moon, the younger a monstrous black tewa, 
 called Rahii. 
 
 " Rahii's height was forty-eight thousand miles. His 
 arms were thirteen thousand miles asunder. His face mea- 
 sured five thousand miles. His head, nine thousand miles. 
 His forehead, three thousand miles. The space between 
 the eyebrows, five hundred miles. His nose was three thou- 
 sand miles long. His nostrils were three thousand miles 
 deep. His mouth was of a deep-red color, and was two 
 thousand miles wide. His fingers and toes were of equal 
 lengths, that is, five hundred miles. 
 
 " Rahii is bold, fierce, and malicious. He watches the 
 sun and moon continually ; and when the latter is full, he 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 43 
 
 hates her so excessively that he cannot rest, but stands in her 
 path, with his mouth wide open. Sometimes he compresses 
 her between his lips. Sometimes hides her under his chin. 
 Sometimes buries her maliciously in the hollow of his cheek. 
 And sometimes, shuts her up in his hand, according to his 
 inclination. On account of his former imprecation his 
 anger cannot cease, for his prayer was answered by the 
 great teacher of religion. When the sun and moon are 
 thus annoyed, being greatly frightened, they recite their 
 prayers in great haste. For, the sun being only 500 miles 
 in circumference, and the moon 290 miles, when thrust into 
 Rahu's mouth, they lose themselves, and are as if they had 
 fallen into the infernal regions. All the heavenly damsels 
 being alarmed at this, cry out in great distress some 
 dishevelling their hair and beating their breasts, cry out, 
 * The moon is destroyed we remember all her beauty 
 she was a bright body and protected us from evil. Rahu 
 is very audacious thus to frighten her in her path !' 
 
 " The astrologers say that this phenomenon forebodes 
 evil. When Rahu has released the moon, he enters his 
 palace in haste, and throwing himself down, says that he 
 has been playing tricks with the moon, in consequence of 
 which his head is almost strained asunder, and that he is 
 nearly dead. 
 
 " Thus Rahu and the sun and moon are at perpetual va- 
 riance."* 
 
 It must at once strike the reader, that such absurdities en- 
 tering into the religious and credulous systems of the Siam- 
 ese, one effectual way of convincing them of the error of 
 their own teachers, and that the systems to which they 
 adhere are false, is by giving the rising generation among 
 them true ideas in connection with astronomy and philoso- 
 phy. It is said that their system of religion embraces the 
 idea that there is a central mountain in the universe, and 
 that about this are located seven states of existences. The 
 
 * " The above corresponds precisely with the belief of the Siam- 
 ese generally. All eclipses are supposed to be occasioned by this 
 fabulous monster, whom they endeavor to frighten off by beating 
 drums, kettles, etc., and exerting their voices in producing the most 
 hideous and frightful noises. When the eclipse is over, they think 
 they have succeeded." 
 
 31 
 
44 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 earth is one and the lowest for men and animals. Above 
 it are the others, arranged for heavenly existences accord- 
 ing to the respective excellencies of their natures and 
 spiritual prowess. The light of true philosophy alone 
 will do away such absurdities, and with the undermining 
 of the basis of their system must crumble the fabric of 
 their superstitions. A fit illustration of this sentiment is 
 found in an anecdote repeated to me by the Rev. Mr. 
 White, the English chaplain at Singapore. A gentleman 
 of scientific tastes, in India, at considerable expense and 
 trouble, procured a fine microscope from England. Hav- 
 ing properly arranged it, he invited a Bramin to look at 
 its developments. The Hindoo priest gazed with aston- 
 ishment at the revelations which a drop of water, exposed 
 to the effects of the microscope, made to him. He had 
 for a long sainted life, according to the tenets of his Bra- 
 minical system, been priding himself on the consistency of 
 his action with his creed, in never having, in any instance, 
 destroyed life. Here his whole self-complacency, and his 
 supposed consistency of a long life, and profoundly be- 
 lieved tenets of his system, were at once overthrown and 
 destroyed. He manifested the greatest agitation. And 
 after an interval begged that he might be possessed of so 
 remarkable a thing. The owner, finding it difficult to re- 
 ject the unceasing importunities of the Bramin, finally con- 
 sented that he should have it. The Bramin took it and 
 having left the dwelling of his friend, was watched on his 
 way as he departed, when he was seen to take the lenses 
 and deliberately demolish them all between two stones. 
 The donor having expressed his surprise and displeasure, 
 was answered, with a triumphant air, on the part of the 
 Bramin, that " he had thus acted and was now hapyy ; but 
 while that instrument was in existence his religion was 
 unsafe. Had it gotten abroad, the system of the Bramins 
 would have been overthrown." 
 
 What then is the moral of these facts ? It is that in 
 all the actions of the missionary, he should aim to spread 
 correct and incontrovertible first principles in philosophy; 
 and that instruments which should amuse and practically 
 instruct the native children and make them wiser than 
 their superstitious fathers, should accompany the mission- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 45 
 
 ary abroad, and be used in enlightening the mind of the 
 heathen, and riving the chain that now holds them in obe- 
 dient ignorance to their superstitions of cast and binding 
 habits of many centuries. 
 
 SIAMESE TEN COMMANDMENTS. 
 
 It may not be uninteresting to the reader to have in- 
 troduced here the Siamese ten commandments, found in 
 the sacred books of the Budhists ; the first five being ob- 
 ligatory upon all the people, the last five upon the priest- 
 hood only. 
 
 1. Do not kill animals. 
 
 2. Do not steal. 
 
 3. Do not commit adultery. 
 
 4. Do not tell lies. 
 
 5. Do not drink ardent spirits. 
 
 7. Do not eat any thing from mid-day until past mid- 
 night. 
 
 8. Do not sleep on a place more than one cubit high. 
 8. Do not anoint your body with fragrant oil or powder. 
 10. Do not look at a female, nor at theatrical exhibi^ 
 
 tions. 
 
 The missionaries at Bankok, the capital of Siam, are 
 said to have the favor of the king and his court at the 
 present time. A very beautiful specimen of Japanese 
 work, in an article of a lady's dressing box, occupies Mrs. 
 Davenport's table, which was a present from one of the 
 princes of the kingdom, who partially speaks English and 
 frequently visits the missionary families. 
 
 I trust I shall not be deemed departing from the most 
 delicate dictates of considerate and partial friendship, by 
 introducing the following lines, associated with the lady 
 already mentioned, as one of the missionary band located 
 in Siam, whose residence for the few months past at Sin- 
 gapore, has given me the pleasure of her acquaintance. 
 They were written by her brother on the departure of 
 his sister from her home for this foreign land, with breath- 
 ings of Christian benevolence towards a heathen people 
 swelling her young bosom. They do credit to the writer, 
 as evidencing a mind imaginative and cultivated, and a 
 
46 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 heart swelling with the refined and warm sensibilities of 
 a brother. How should they shame the coarse perceptions 
 of those persons, who are incapable of appreciating the 
 delicate and pure sympathies of a Christian heart that 
 goes out in generous and ennobling feelings of interest for 
 the spiritual welfare of a benighted people ; but who, in 
 the absence of a kindred benevolence, seem ever to seek 
 for some sinister motive as the propelling cause that urges 
 the self-sacrificing missionary to leave the endearments 
 of his native land for the chances and the toils of a foreign, 
 strange, and unlettered race ! If ever there were a gen- 
 erous forgetting of one's self for the good of others if 
 ever there were a scene of moral beauty that the mag- 
 nanimous and the ingenuous of heart would admire, and 
 to which they would accord their approbation and respect- 
 ful but unqualified praise, whatever may be their sentiments 
 as to the practicability of the missionary cause, it is seen 
 in the young, and intelligent, and refined, and Christian 
 female, who, unmindful of the ties of kindred and home, 
 ventures forth in reliance upon her God for protection and 
 support, to dare the vicissitudes of a missionary life among 
 a heathen people. I envy not that man his head or his 
 lieart who perceives not and feels not the moral effect of 
 such a picture. To him, the tear, the sigh, the parting 
 word, the glowing enthusiasm of a young and ardent and 
 Christian heart, the moral energy of a cultivated mind, 
 encased in a form fragile but fair, are things which must 
 have lost what another reads in them the truest poetry 
 of nature. 
 
 How apropos the lines alluded to will be found in 
 many instances besides the interesting one which origina- 
 ted them ! I suppose they have never before been printed. 
 
 "THE DEPARTURE OF THE MISSIONARY BRIDE. 
 
 " The time had come. The stern clock struck the hour. 
 Each long-loved haunt had shared a mute farewell, 
 And drank a blessing from her loving eye 
 For the last time. But now the climax came. 
 Methought she lingered long, as if to gain 
 Respite from some more dreaded pang, 
 Appalling though unfelt ; for, near her side, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 47 
 
 With eye close following where her darling moved, 
 Her widowed mother stood. And so she laid 
 Her on that dear breast, where every pain 
 Of infancy was soothed. And then arose 
 One w T ild, deep sob of weeping, such as breaks 
 Upon the ear of death, when he hath torn 
 The nerve fast-rooted in the fount of life. 
 'Tis o'er the bitterness is past, young bride ! 
 No heavier dreg shall quiver on thy lip 
 Till the last ice-cup cometh. 
 
 " Then she turned 
 
 To him who was to be her sole shelter now, 
 And placed her hand in his, and raised her eye 
 One moment upwards, whence her help did come. 
 Then, with a steadfast step, paced forth to take 
 Her life-long portion in a heathen clime. 
 
 " Yet to me it seemed 
 
 That, in the flush of youth and health, to take 
 Death's parting was a strange, unnatural thing ; 
 And that the faithful martyr, who doth yield 
 His body to the fire's fierce purifier 
 But one brief hour, hath lighter claims on heaven 
 For high endurance, than the tender bride, 
 Who, from her mother's bosom lifts her head, 
 To 'bide the buffets of an Indian clime, 
 Bearing the sorrows of a woman's lot, 
 Perchance for many years." 
 
 The moral courage, the devoted zeal, and the free 
 sacrifices of the missionary, to be rightly estimated, must 
 be viewed in connection with the positive conveniences 
 they were enjoying at the time of their decision to leave 
 their homes ; their many means of happiness, social and 
 intellectual privileges, for the probable exposure, difficul- 
 ties and trials that were expected to be their lot abroad. 
 It was in full view of such a contrast their resolutions 
 were taken ; resigning the reality of the present and the 
 pleasant, for the uncertainty of the doubtful and appre- 
 hended future. If, however, on reaching a foreign coun- 
 try, they find that Providence has so disposed things as to 
 render their situation more comfortable, in external cir- 
 cumstances, than they expected, it becomes a matter for 
 gratitude on their own part, their friends at home, and 
 Christians universally ; their conveniences being so much 
 the more advantageous for prosecuting their benevolent 
 labors, as is their situation the more favorable than they 
 
 31* 
 
48 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 anticipated. Thus we have found the missionaries at this 
 station. Their dwelling-houses are spacious, and neatly 
 but plainly furnished ; having been built before they reach- 
 ed the place, and affording pleasant residences, at a rea- 
 sonable rent. Most of the houses of the missionaries are 
 occupied by two families ; and at the present, while the 
 Borneo missionaries are remaining at Singapore, they are 
 residents in the same buildings with their brethren. The 
 building on the hill, most pleasantly situated, is the most 
 spacious one occupied by the missionaries. The rooms 
 are so arranged as to render it convenient for the two fam- 
 ilies who occupy it, and a large hall in the centre affords 
 a room for worship on Sunday, and religious meetings 
 during the week. These buildings and lot, it is said, are 
 offered for sale ; and I should deem it a most proper pur- 
 chase, if the Society at home have the funds to secure it.* 
 It is here the missionary families gather to their afternoon 
 worship ; and, in themselves, they form a respectable ga- 
 thering, even in numbers. Their scholars are also present, 
 and those connected with the mission. It is a matter of 
 gratification to me to be able to say that these rooms have 
 been a favorite place of resort to many of our officers for 
 the afternoon service, during the stay of our ships at Sin- 
 gapore. In the morning the Episcopal church is open, 
 and it is usual for the missionaries and all others to frequent 
 it for the morning services. There is also a Scotch chapel 
 where service is held on Wednesday evenings. 
 
 On the first Sunday in March, two of the gentlemen, 
 Messrs. Thompson and Polhman of the mission, officiated, 
 at the invitation of Commodore Read, on board the Co- 
 lumbia. The selection of persons was left to the arrange- 
 ment of the gentlemen of the mission themselves. Some 
 one of their number has also regularly held services each 
 Sunday on board the John Adams, during our stay at this 
 port. And it is a remark that gives me great pleasure in 
 
 * The low bungalow, one story high, with verandahs extending 
 quite around it, and costing from six hundred to one thousand dol- 
 lars, I believe is the style of building which the missionaries would 
 prefer, did their funds render it compatible for them to build them. 
 There are but a few such buildings, I should think, in Singapore. 
 The Rev. Mr. Travelli occupies one. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 49 
 
 recording it here, that almost all the officers of the squad- 
 ron (I do not know one exception among those who have 
 formed their acquaintance) have given to the missionary 
 families, now at this station, their cordial good wishes, and 
 they regard them as a band of worthy men and women 
 sincerely engaged in a cause of philanthropy and religion, 
 ennobling and grand in its purposes and expected results. 
 And I know that a good number of these officers will leave 
 their missionary friends at Singapore, with hearts warmed 
 in kindness towards them personally, and giving them, 
 with their sympathies and their prayers, the cordial hopes 
 that they may be successful arid happy in the devotion of 
 their lives to the noble and holy cause of throwing the 
 light of the Christian religion in the pathway of a benight- 
 ed people. 
 
 I accompanied the Rev. Messrs. T. and P., on their 
 return to shore from our ship, and officiated, agreeably to 
 previous arrangement, at the missionary room on the hill, 
 in the afternoon. It was their communion day, being the 
 first Sunday in the month. All the missionaries were 
 present and their ladies, and some of the officers from 
 both ships. The room was well filled, and I shall not 
 forget the interest of a season, so peculiar to us, privileged, 
 in our course around the world, a moment to pause here 
 and to mingle with a band of the disciples of Christ so 
 worthy, in a region so far from the land of our mutual 
 and native homes. And here was a beautiful exemplifi- 
 cation of the union of Christian hearts of different per- 
 suasions the Presbyterian, the Dutch Reformed, and the 
 Scotch Independent. There were Chinese converts (a few) 
 who joined in the communion. I shall remember, as an 
 agreeable reminiscence of these worthy missionaries, the 
 range of their numbers, as they lined the room on this oc- 
 casion of an interesting meeting. And I doubt not that 
 their thoughts, with all their unfaltering purpose of a life's 
 devotion to the cause they had espoused, went far over 
 sea to those they had left and still loved in a distant land. 
 Their heads at least were bowed in the indulgence of 
 their overflowing emotions. These lines may meet the 
 eyes of some of them, when I would again say in the 
 language I then used, " Cheer ! in view of the necessary 
 
50 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 efforts, in the absence of the age of miracles, which you 
 are now putting forth in your unwearied work of acquir- 
 ing the languages ; in your patient instructions of groups 
 of children ; in the spread of the word of God in their 
 native tongue, and other works exemplifying the eternal 
 principles of the fitness, mercy, and salvation, which the 
 Bible develops. Cheer ! in the knowledge that ye are 
 working with the Holy Spirit, who converts and sancti- 
 fies the souls of men, "THROUGH THE TRUTH." Yours is the 
 precise action that must take place, in the very nature of 
 mind, as the precursor of that morn, when a day without 
 its night shall illumine both hemispheres of the earth. 
 Cheer ! in your hours of shade and sorrow, in the con- 
 sciousness of your disinterested and benevolent action. 
 The darkest moment of midnight is just before the break 
 of day. Cheer ! in your joyous gush of happy anticipa- 
 tion, for there are gleams of light already streaming all 
 around the moral horizon of a benighted world. Cheer ! 
 for the warm hearts of Christian millions are with you ; 
 and the pure tear that would have graced an angel's eye, 
 has pearled its way on the cheek of many who have given 
 for you their prayers." 
 
 On the succeeding Wednesday evening, 1 dined with 
 the Rev. Mr. J. Stronach, and preached in the Scotch 
 chapel. A number from the families of the town, with the 
 missionaries in the neighborhood, attend the evening ser- 
 vices at the Scotch chapel. It is a convenient edifice for 
 the purposes designed, and the two Scotch gentlemen 
 seemed to be favorably located for the prosecution of their 
 plans. They are acquiring the Chinese language, in view 
 of laboring among this most numerous class of people, 
 in Singapore. I met the Chinese convert, Leang Afat, at 
 Mr. A. Stronach's, a short time previously. This Chinese 
 has been expelled from the Chinese empire, in consequence 
 of his conversion to Christianity, and is now engaged in 
 revising the Chinese Bible. His personal appearance is 
 prepossessing ; and I bear a letter, with some Httle me- 
 mentoes of a father's affection, from him to his son Leang 
 A-tih, who is with the son of Dr. Morrison, at Canton. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 51 
 
 LANGUAGE OF THE MALAYS. 
 
 The language of the Malays is probably more exten- 
 sively spoken than any other throughout the eastern seas, 
 and has justly derived for itself the appellation of the Lin- 
 gua Franca of this part of the globe. It is strikingly soft 
 and euphonious, and may be styled, not inaptly, the Italian 
 of the East. It is said, by those who are capable of ap- 
 preciating its excellencies as well as its defects, that it is 
 favorable in its combinations to poetry, and that the Ma- 
 lays are fond of rhythm, which they attempt in proverbs 
 and love-songs. There is pith, at least, in the first, and 
 sentiment in the second distich of the following two speci- 
 mens : 
 
 " What signifies attempting to light a lamp, 
 If the wick be wanting 1" 
 
 " What signifies playing with the eyes, 
 If nothing in earnest be intended ?" 
 
 They say, when expressing their sentiment of fatalism, 
 which so thoroughly enters into the creed of those imbued 
 with Mohammedanism : 
 
 " Those who are dead are dead ; those who survive 
 must work. If his allotted time is expired, what resource 
 is there ?" 
 
 The Malays, so far as is yet known, have never had 
 any original set of characters to designate their elementary 
 sounds of speech. They use the Arabic characters in 
 their written language, with some modifications ; and as 
 a consequence, together with their association with the 
 Mohammedans in the adoption of their religion, they 
 have introduced many Arabic words ; and from the early 
 intercourse with the Portuguese throughout these regions . 
 a number of words from the language of these early ad- 
 venturers are also found incorporated with the Malay. 
 Their words, nouns and verbs, are without inflections, and 
 therefore no grammar of their language, according to our 
 general notions on the subject, can be formed. 
 
 Singapore is a central position of the thousand isles and 
 large extent of coasts where this language is spoken* 
 
52 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Most of the missionaries study it, and it forms one of the 
 languages taught in the Literary Institution at Singapore. 
 Mr. A. North, attached to the mission here, is spoken 
 of as one of the best Malay scholars of the place, and 
 certainly manifests a commendable zeal in the pursuit of 
 Malay literature. With this gentleman I had the pleasure 
 of occasional interviews, and am indebted to him for the 
 translation of several Malay manuscripts, which I shall in- 
 troduce here for their curiosity, and also as having a con- 
 nection with the transactions of our ships on the west 
 coast of Sumatra. 
 
 PO CHUTE ABDULLAH'S EPISTLE. 
 
 The first is the letter of obligation on the part of Po 
 Chute Abdullah, Rajah of Kwala Batu, to pay two thou- 
 sand dollars. The following is the translation of the ori- 
 ginal Malay. Mr. North intentionally retained some of 
 the peculiarities of the original in the translation as given: 
 
 " This is the epistle of Po Chute Abdullah, to Com- 
 mander Reej, engaging to pay two thousand dollars. 
 
 ** As to the bad man, he has not been caught ; he has 
 fled. 
 
 " Now, this agreement is to pay the said money, within 
 twelve months, to Commander Reej, or to any other ship 
 which shall present this writing, or another equivalent to 
 it, whether a ship of war or a trading- vessel ; only let not 
 another ship make war upon the country of Kwala Batu. 
 Hereby is peace made with Commander Reej, and hereby 
 does Po Chute Abdullah, Rajah of Kwala Batu, become 
 his friend as long as he lives. The writing is finished. By 
 the council of all the elders of Kwala Batu on the side of 
 Achin. Our words are ended, wishing you peace and 
 tranquillity." 
 
 The following is added in the hand- writing of Po 
 Adam : 
 
 " This writing from Po Chute Abdullah, of Kwala Batu, 
 is given to Commodore Reej, on Saturday, the 17th day 
 of the festival month, in the year 1254. Signed, as wit* 
 ness, by Po Adam, Taku Kadang." 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 53 
 
 The next document is a letter from one of the chiefs of 
 Muckie. It was written after the destruction of that 
 place, and sent to Commodore Read while the ship was 
 lying at Soo-Soo, filling up with water. It is, at least, a 
 curious document, besides other things containing the 
 Rajah's own account of the murder of Captain Wilkins. 
 The Rajah is wrong in one particular, and may be in 
 others. Commodore Read made no promise of sending 
 on shore after the second interview of the officer, on the 
 day preceding the destruction of the town. This is cer- 
 tified to by Captain Wyman and Lieutenant Turner, the 
 officers who called on the Rajahs agreeably to the orders 
 of the Commodore. 
 
 " Now this is the document of the great chief of Muckie, 
 to the Commander of the ship of war and all the officers 
 thereof. As are the particles of the earth and the stars of 
 the sky for number, even so many and more, are my 
 compliments to, and hopes in, the Commander of the Amer- 
 ican ship of war. 
 
 " Now I make known to you, that on a time, Captain 
 Wilkins having arrived in the harbor of Muckie, Po Ma- 
 layu went on board his ship. The Captain put confidence 
 in him, but not in us. Po Malayu brought his ship to 
 Taluk Pow, where he took in some pepper ; he then took 
 her to Sawang, and did the same ; he received at both 
 places say about one thousand piculs ; he then conducted 
 her to Tarbangan and took in more. When he had been 
 at that place two or three days, by Divine Providence, 
 Panglina Sanyak Blang, with Lubby Yusuf at night, 
 bringing pepper, which was received and weighed by the 
 captain at night ; they then killed the captain, and took 
 his money and goods. Lubby Yusuf then returned to Ta- 
 luk Pow. It was then reported to us that Captain Wilkins 
 was made away with by Panglina Sanyak Blang and 
 Lubby Yusuf. I then sent Taku Yet to the ship of Captain 
 Silver, directing them to search for the captured vessel. 
 After Captain Silver had been gone two days, I sent a war- 
 boat with my scribe, but he did not find Captain Wilkins's 
 
54 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ship ; and Captain Silver, Taku Yet, and my war-boat, all 
 came back to Muckie. Two or three days after, Captain 
 Wilkins's ship came with Captain Filbadi (Peabody) to 
 Muckie. The mate of Captain Wilkins bought of me 
 about seven hundred pikuls of pepper. I told Captains 
 Silver and Filbadi, and Wilkins's mate, that I intended to 
 put to death the persons engaged in this murder, and re- 
 cover the plundered property. They replied : * Don't do 
 it. If a ship of war comes to Muckie, you can unite your 
 forces with her ; you attacking them by land and she by 
 water.' Thus did I agree with these three men. Why 
 should they give me these directions ? Because my coun- 
 try was taken along with three countries and a half, to 
 wit, Samadu, Taluk Pow, Sawang, and part of Muckie ; 
 for this reason I made treaty with the ship of war which 
 was to come. 
 
 " I now make known to you that the persons who com- 
 mitted the murder were Taku Blangi, Taku Yikdul and 
 Taku Nyik Raja ; their scribe was the scribe of Po Ma- 
 layu. 
 
 " Now you came to this country and met me and those 
 men at Taku Yet's house ; you told us all to go on board 
 the ship ; I said I would go ; but the others said they would 
 not. The reason of their saying so was that they suspected 
 some secret understanding between you and me. At 
 twelve o'clock the next day you were to come on shore, 
 but at eight o'clock you commenced firing. During my 
 father's life, and within my own remembrance, I have never 
 known white men to violate their engagements, whether 
 for good or evil. I, though alive, now feel like a dead 
 man. Now, what think you ? I wish you would return 
 me answer immediately by the bearer. 
 
 " I send my respects to my brother, Taku Lambadar, 
 who is on board the American ship of war, and request him 
 to give any explanation that may be necessary, because 
 we are brethren. The end." 
 
 " The original of the above," adds Mr. North, " is writ- 
 ten in a very confused and careless manner. It must have 
 been composed by an exceedingly illiterate person. It has 
 been difficult for me to make out the meaning, even with 
 the assistance of the most learned Malay in Singapore. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 55 
 
 The passages enclosed in red (alluding to the time of firing 
 and the treaty with the ship of war, etc.) are the most ob- 
 scure, and I am not confident that I have given any thing 
 like the true meaning. Probably some one familiar with 
 the circumstances alluded to in these two passages could 
 throw light upon them and enable me to give a correct 
 translation." 
 
 The next paper I insert is a translation of an epistle from 
 Po Kwala, the Pedir Rajah of Kwala Batu, with whom a 
 treaty was partly formed at Pulau Kayu and completed 
 on board the Columbia : 
 
 "Now this sincere and friendly writing, which arises from 
 a white heart, a serene countenance, an eloquent tongue, 
 and true faith, comes from the side of Taku Rajah Kwala, 
 who governs the country of Kwala Batu on the side of 
 Pedir. We send many compliments to the commander 
 and all the elders of the ship of war. 
 
 " Now we will not lengthen out our words, but only 
 make a short statement. The Taku Rajah Kwala would 
 fain touch the hand and see the eyes of the commander and 
 all the elders ; he wishes to meet you all at Pulau Kayu. 
 If you are willing, let the commander first send down the 
 elders to meet Taku Rajah Kwala on shore, because the 
 Rajah wishes immediately to ascend the ship. It is al- 
 ready known to you that the son of the Rajah wishes to 
 accompany his father on board, provided you give permis- 
 sion, since the Rajah is anxious to become the friend of the 
 commander. 
 
 " Concerning the outrage upon your countrymen : The 
 property is in the possession of an Achin chief and of the 
 man who committed the outrage who is his son (subject.) 
 Taku Rajah Kwala and his sons have had no hand in this 
 outrage, and no portion of the spoil. What now is the 
 determination of your Excellency, since I am a poor man 1 
 Have compassion on me. Send your trading-vessels. I 
 have pepper, and you have pepper ships in your country. 
 Both myself and my royal father havealways'been at peace 
 with the Americans, as says Taku Yet Hed ? If you en- 
 
 32 
 
56 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tertain any doubts concerning the truth of my assertion, 
 you may inquire of your countrymen who is right and who 
 wrong. Thus may your perspicuous Excellency be right- 
 ly informed. This is the end. 
 
 " In the year of the Flight 1255." 
 
 The last document will be regarded as the most graceful 
 composition, as the Rajah Po Kwala was the most genteel 
 chiei in appearance and manners we met ; and the circum- 
 stances of the after talk with this chief, and the place and 
 the scene, have already been described. 
 
 The manuscript, of which the following fac-simile is a 
 copy, was given me by Mr. North, as a beautiful specimen 
 of Malay manuscript. It is the Lord's Prayer in the Malay 
 language and Arabic characters: 
 
 
 
 JLww 
 
 Jo ft^o ijLDs. x Jo 
 
 Jo s J 
 
 I have already stated that a number of the missionaries 
 now at Singapore, are waiting for a passage to Borneo. 
 Two of their number, the Rev. Messrs. Doty and Polhman, 
 have visited this island, to make observations as to the 
 prospects of a mission there, and think they are favorable. 
 But little heretofore has been known of the islanders of 
 Borneo, composed of Chinese, Bujis, and Dyaks. It is to 
 the Dyaks the missionaries propose to give their particu- 
 lar attention. They are a wild and peculiar people in 
 some respects, and appear to be mild and hospitable in 
 others. The Rev. Mr. Polhman gave me the privilege of 
 reading the journal of the tour of these two missionaries 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 57 
 
 from Sambas to Pontianah, some one hundred miles in the 
 interior. Many of their customs are peculiar. That of 
 cutting off the heads and preserving the skulls as trophies 
 of personal prowess, is one. For this purpose the mem- 
 bers of the different tribes make an annual sally from their 
 villages. The consequence is, that the principal ornament 
 of the establishment of a Dyak of character among his 
 fellows is a range of human skulls the more numerous 
 the more honorable their possessor. 
 
 One would think it to be a wild and rough region for a 
 delicate and beautiful woman to go to, to spend her life 
 and to fade away, if not unknown, yet beyond the view 
 of a civilized world. And yet some such have volunta- 
 rily devoted themselves to the benevolent efforts of the 
 self-denying missionary among such a people as the Dyaks. 
 May God attend them. We have learned, from our own 
 privilege of association with them for the few past weeks, 
 to know and appreciate their worth, and give them our 
 prayers for their success and happiness in the free dedi- 
 cation of their lives to the best welfare of the human race. 
 
 I have not thus long delayed the mention of the Ameri- 
 can Consul at Singapore and his estimable lady, because 
 of any forgetfulness of their generous hospitality and con- 
 tinued courtesies. J. Balistier, Esq., is at the head of the 
 American commercial interests here, and, soon after our 
 ship was at anchor, waited on the Commodore, and ten- 
 dered to himself and his officers the hospitality of his 
 house. Commodore Read has made the Consul's his home 
 during the stay of our ships at Singapore, and the officers 
 of the squadron always found a welcome when visiting 
 the family. Mr. B.'s residence is a spacious and commo- 
 dious building, pleasantly situated on the level, and over- 
 looking the beach, with a full prospect of the expanded 
 water, and the hundred junks and the half hundred Euro- 
 pean vessels moored at some distance at their anchors in 
 the stream. Mrs. Balistier gave a party to the Commo- 
 dore and his officers, at which the Singapore gentles were 
 present. The knowledge that dancing would constitute 
 a part of the entertainment induced me to excuse myself. 
 Without entering upon a disquisition as to the propriety 
 of the dance, or the presence of clergymen and professors 
 
58 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of religion at the party where the dance is expected to 
 constitute a part of the social entertainment, I here simply 
 allude to the subject, by way of accounting to some of 
 my friends for the course of my own action in such cases. 
 It is enough that I deem that the clergyman must always 
 compromit his proper dignity by such an attendance. 
 
 The society of Singapore is quite small, the number of 
 European ladies, I should think, not exceeding twenty. 
 The civilities of shore were reciprocated by Commodore 
 Read, by an entertainment given on board the Columbia, 
 some few days previous to the sailing of our ships. The 
 quarter-deck of the frigate was decorated with the flags of 
 different nations, forming a hall, w r hose ends and sides and 
 ceiling were lined with layers of every-colored bunting. 
 Here, unfolded the gorgeous crown and gold of the Span- 
 iard; there, the emeralds and the diamonds and the emblem 
 of a world's dominion, supporting the elevated cross, dis- 
 played the boasted prowess of Portugal, and the wealth of 
 the Brazils. There again, in graceful festoon, dropped the 
 five crowns of Bolivia ; and here glowed the full sun of a 
 neighboring state. Every nation had its representative 
 in curtain or festoon, or in spread of wider folds, while the 
 royal ensign of England and the stars and stripes of the 
 American Republic occupied the most conspicuous and con- 
 tiguous places, with their unions in calm and complacent 
 contact. 
 
 Who that has the memories of an honored ancestry 
 who, with the fresh recollections of olden and modern his- 
 toric pages who, with the swelling hopes and desires that 
 a world may be blessed with the highest attainments in civ- 
 ilization and the hallowed principles and consolations of 
 the religion of Jesus Christ, will not pray that the national 
 emblems of these two nations may long wave harmonious- 
 ly, wherever they may display their folds, on land or on 
 the sea ? 
 
 Besides other articles of curiosity in the rooms at the 
 American Consul's, Mrs. Balistier has a fine collection of 
 shells, which a residence at this point has enabled her to 
 secure from most of the adjacent seas. They are taste- 
 fully arranged in a private cabinet. Here, also, I have 
 first met with the sacred lotus, the lily of Egypt and other 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 59 
 
 classic regions ; and to Mrs. B. I am indebted for the pos- 
 session of a large number of paintings, illustrating with 
 great minuteness and accuracy the great variety of fruits 
 of the straits. With Mrs. B., I am sure all who have form- 
 ed her acquaintance will leave their kindest wishes, and 
 take with them remembrances of her courtesies, which 
 will make the recollection of them among their most ac- 
 ceptable associations with Singapore. 
 
 Our ships had now lingered more than a month in Singa- 
 pore Roads. The monsoon had begun to weaken its force, 
 and the sick of the crew, who had early been removed to 
 a fine airy house, rented for a hospital during our stay, 
 began to recruit. It was expected that the John Adams 
 would be sent up the gulf of Siarn, while the Columbia 
 would prolong her stay for a few more days at Singapore, 
 and the two ships again meet at Manilla. Commodore 
 Read only waited for the more complete restoration of the 
 sick of the crew of the John Adams, before he should is- 
 sue his orders, which had already been prepared, for her" 
 departure for Siam. 
 
 The purpose of Commodore Read to send the Adams to 
 Siam, was afterwards changed, in view of the state of the 
 health of the crew of the John Adams and the fear that 
 additional sickness would be the result of the corvette's 
 visit to Bankok. But as it was the original design of 
 Commodore Read that the Adams should leave Singa- 
 pore for Siam ; and more particularly, because I desire it 
 should be known what views and feelings the commander 
 of the East India squadron cherished in connection with 
 the missionaries in these regions, I here quote the instruc- 
 tions that were made out for Captain Wyman, though, in 
 view of the reasons already specified, they were not for- 
 warded to him : 
 
 " U. S. Frigate Columbia, Singapore Roads, March, 1839. 
 SIR, 
 
 " You will proceed with the ship under your command 
 to the gulf of Siam, and approach Bankok as near as you 
 can with safety, for the purpose of communicating with 
 the city of Siam. 
 
 " The object of your visit will be to obtain information 
 32* 
 
60 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 respecting the state of our commerce with that kingdom, 
 and to procure all the intelligence which may be deemed 
 useful to be communicated lor the benefit of our govern- 
 ment. It is also desirable that the government of Siam 
 should be made acquainted with the character of our naval 
 force in these seas, arid of the original intention that the 
 squadron under my command should visit the dominions 
 of his Majesty, and which nothing but the impossibility of 
 getting sufficiently near to Bankok with the Columbia, pre- 
 vented. 
 
 " The missionaries from the United States at present res- 
 ident in the kingdom of Siam, are said of late to have re- 
 ceived particular notice, with marks of favor from the king 
 of that country, and from his half-brother. The mission- 
 aries are also represented by impartial accounts from that 
 quarter of the world, as doing much good their time and 
 their talents being industriously and zealously employed in 
 the education of many of the youth of the country. It is 
 also believed that they are gradually gaining influence 
 with the great mass of the people ; and it is well known 
 that a remarkable change in their favor has taken place, 
 as manifested in their reception and the treatment the mis- 
 sionaries meet with from the inhabitants. You will there- 
 fore readily perceive the propriety of affording them all 
 the countenance in our power. It is my wish that the 
 government under which they live and the people with 
 whom they reside, should see and know that we respect 
 them. You will communicate freely with them, and learn 
 whatever may be of interest respecting the disposition of 
 that government towards our own, together with any in- 
 formation that may be of service to ourselves. If any 
 aid or assistance which it may be in your power to give 
 should be asked by the missionaries or any of them, I need 
 not say that it would be your duty (as I am sure it would 
 be your inclination) to afford it without hesitation. 
 
 "On the completion of your business at Siam, you will 
 proceed to Manilla, and take on board at that port your 
 proportion, or one third of the stores deposited there for 
 the use of the squadron. You will also supply yourself 
 with bread, if it can be procured, lest you might not be able 
 to obtain this article of consumption at Canton. You will 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 61 
 
 then proceed to Canton. On your arrival at the latter 
 place, you will immediately commence refitting, and put 
 your ship in such a state and condition as will render her 
 capable of again taking the sea, to reach South America. 
 " With sincere good wishes for the health and happi- 
 ness of yourself, officers, and crew, 
 
 " I am, dear sir, very truly yours, 
 
 "GEORGE C. READ. 
 
 " To Commander T. C. WYMAN, U. S. ship John Adams." 
 
 After tea this evening, Saturday, March 9th, I called 
 at Mr. Doty's, to spend an hour or two with the mission- 
 ary families there. I perceived a cloud was hanging 
 over their circle, and after a short time left them ; when 
 the Rev. Mr. Orr and myself, having proceeded a short 
 distance on our return, met Mr. North, who had just come 
 from the hill, another part of the town, where the Rev. 
 Mr. Ball and the Rev. Mr. Wood, with their families, re- 
 side. 
 
 " Ah, here is brother North, now," said Mr. O. as we 
 met, " you can give us all the news from the hill, we 
 were just thinking about sending there, to learn how Mrs. 
 Wood is." 
 
 " How do you do, Mr. T. ?" replied Mr. N., addressing 
 myself abruptly, " a note has just gone to you, to ask if 
 you will perform the burial service over Mrs. Wood to- 
 morrow, at five o'clock. Another letter has been sent to 
 the Consul's, and one to Commodore Read, informing them 
 of the death of Mrs. W., and inviting them and the offi- 
 cers of the squadron, to attend the funeral. And you, bro- 
 ther Orr, will conduct the services at the house, if you 
 can." 
 
 It was like a thunderbolt, this unexpected intelligence. 
 In the morning Mrs. W., was deemed every way comfort- 
 able ; and although one of the ladies of the neighborhood 
 had been sent for to go to the hill, it was hoped that Mrs. 
 W. was not dangerously ill. But, to-night, she is robed 
 for her grave-yard sleep of to-morrow. Sweet, gentle, 
 lovely, effeminate woman but lately wedded, and with 
 a heart swelling with benevolence towards millions, thou 
 earnest to a foreign land, and here, so soon, hast found a 
 
62 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 foreign grave. Sleep gently for gentle hearts weep for 
 thee, and will weep over thee. Sleep gently for thy 
 spirit was a thing of softness, and purity, and blushing 
 modesty. Sleep gently for thou dost now rest in Jesus ! 
 And for thee I withhold not the tear, as to thee, in our 
 short acquaintance, I had given, more than to most others 
 of thy number, a deep interest and a Christian's sympathy. 
 
 FUNERAL OF MRS. WOOD. 
 
 This evening of Sunday I have attended the funeral of 
 Mrs. Wood, the companion of the Rev. Mr. Wood, mis- 
 sionary at this place. 
 
 No tongue can tell the sorrow that this bereavement 
 has gathered over the missionary families here. I had 
 myself become deeply interested in Mrs. W., yet a young 
 lady, embracing in her character an amiableness which 
 traced itself in every smile on her countenance, and en- 
 deared her to her friends. 
 
 The services commenced at half-past four o'clock. The 
 large room at the mission house was filled. A large 
 number of the officers of both ships, manifested their sym- 
 pathy by their attendance ; and Commodore Read had ex- 
 pressed his desire that all the officers of the squadron 
 should attend, whom the duties of the ships would allow. 
 He himself was confined to his room, by a severe cold. 
 Captain Wyman of the Adams, with most of his officers, 
 was present ; Mr. Church the Resident, the American 
 Consul and his lady, and Mrs. White, the lady of the En- 
 glish chaplain, and all the missionaries, together with a 
 large concourse of the citizens. 
 
 The services were conducted by the Rev. Mr. Orr. I 
 would it were in my power here to transcribe the appro- 
 priate address he made. He did not come, he said, to of- 
 fer consolation to the bereaved companion it would re- 
 quire more than human power to do that. And yet he 
 owed the reciprocation of this act of kindness to his be- 
 reaved brother, who, on an occasion not a long time since, 
 had done a like office of kindness for him.* 
 
 * At the funeral of Mr. Orr's child, a short time previous. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 63 
 
 Mr. O. told in brief the story of Mrs. Wood. She was 
 the daughter of Johnston, Esq., of Morristown, New- 
 Jersey. She became pious at the age of fifteen left the 
 endearments of a refined society, home, and relatives, for 
 the purpose of entering on the work of missions among a 
 benighted people. It was not the result of enthusiasm. 
 She thought on her work, and dedicated herself consider- 
 ately to the cause. Arid though she had known some of 
 the trials and sorrows attendant on such action, she yet 
 had no desire to return. Her purpose remained fixed. 
 
 Mr. Orr addressed himself, in sadness and sorrow, to 
 his weeping brethren and more bitterly weeping sisters, 
 from whose bosoms one of the dearest of their number 
 had been taken. Death had been among them, he added, 
 for some wise purpose. It had come near to them in tak- 
 ing early one who had entered with him on this mission ; 
 and now God had approached, in a voice yet more thrill- 
 ing, and with a step yet more near. 
 
 To the officers he addressed an allusion to the circum- 
 stance, that death had been in their midst, in the frequent 
 removal of numbers of our men, since our arrival here, 
 from both ships. 
 
 And among the citizens, he continued, but of late, the 
 pride of manhood and the beauty of woman have been 
 laid low. 
 
 The whole appeal was simple, chaste, feeling, appro- 
 priate. And there were many broken hearts there. I 
 sat beside the principal mourner. He wept as we knelt 
 side by side, but like an intelligent, meek, and devoted 
 disciple of Christ, sustains his loss with a becoming and 
 beautiful propriety, while the keen sensibilities of a heart 
 of refinement pours out its grief. And a little way from 
 me sat Mrs. P. She wept. She had come over with 
 Mrs. W., and their hearts were united, but death had now 
 severed chords that bound them in an endearing affection. 
 And a little way further, sat Mrs. O., who, like all the rest 
 of this devoted band of women, shed the silent tear as 
 their heads bent in melancholy sadness, to conceal their 
 flowing grief. It is beautiful to see woman weep. But 
 when she sheds her tear under such circumstances of be- 
 reavement, there is a sacredness in the hour in the spot 
 
64 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 in the stillness, which makes the soul adore the purity 
 of the Eternal, and love and admire woman's lovely and, 
 virtuous character. 
 
 It is not for me to narrate my own private sorrows. 
 But I had learned to admire this lovely woman, who, as 
 she now lay reposing in her marble, surpassed in her cold 
 and pale beauty any chiselled perfection in the arts. It 
 was the poetry of death. I have elsewhere seen it on 
 the unsullied face of the infant lying in its death-sleep, 
 with a flower upon its pale and cold cheek. The scene 
 carried me back to another and a bitter hour. And it 
 surely was an easy thing, this day, to weep. 
 
 When the procession moved from the house a scene 
 was presented, which a graphic pen should describe with- 
 out the colorings of the imagination. The reality was an 
 imposing spectacle. A long line of palanquins and car- 
 riages were occupied by the sympathizing attendants, and 
 along the side of this line of vehicles walked the young 
 Chinese scholars, with their hair-braids nearly touching 
 the ground, and who, in the morning, had stood around the 
 corpse of the departed missionary, and shed their tears in 
 their young simplicity. They were sad indeed, for hearts 
 so young. And before them walked the Chinese and 
 Malay teachers. One of the latter had bent over the cof- 
 fin of the dead during the morning, and a stream of silent 
 sorrow poured from his eye as he gazed on the lovely 
 corpse. She had often spoken kindly to him, as he had 
 given to her husband lessons in Malay. Mr. W. was 
 riding in the palanquin with myself, and talked with a full 
 heart of his beloved companion ; cherishing the many ex- 
 pressions she had uttered in her last and brief illness, while 
 unconscious of her near end, but grateful for the favora- 
 ble circumstances attendant on the birth of her infant. 
 And like a Christian he cherished the promises of his God, 
 and confided in their truth and consolation. 
 
 The extended procession advanced through several of 
 the streets, drawing the gaze of the Chinese, the Moorman, 
 the Bugis, the Sepoy, and still other classes of dark men, 
 as the Portuguese bearers advanced with the dark-palled 
 coffin to its final rest. They wound along the beautiful 
 bamboo-hedge that empales, in evergreen and soft foliage, 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 65 
 
 this lovely burial-place, and reached its portal just as the 
 sun was sending his level beams over the plain, and gave 
 a mellowed softness and melancholy charm to the hour, 
 as the coffin rested beside the open grave. 
 
 The crowd gathered from the carriages to the spot ; 
 and the service was repeated, as "earth to earth, ashes to 
 ashes, dust to dust," crumbled with its muffled sound upon 
 the gilded coffin of the young and lovely missionary. 
 
 How many a heart was bleeding as they turned from 
 that scene ! But the hill-side, where now the early- 
 departed is gently reposing, is a lovely spot. The breezes 
 that sweep up the acclivity are borne from a grove of the 
 evergreen nutmegs, as if they would breathe a spicy breath 
 for a spirit so pure, so lovely, and we believe now for ever 
 happy. 
 
 That same grave-yard, to me, will ever have a thrilling 
 interest, not only as a lovely spot, where, in silence and 
 solitude, I have trod at an evening hour, reposing in its 
 sweet seclusion but a short way from my lodgings on 
 shore, but also for a hundred strange and commingling 
 associations, which memory will recall in hours of review. 
 It is a strange pathway we measure while we tread our 
 course of life, so different every successive year from what 
 we early dreamed of, and perhaps had planned. And 
 then its strange intersections with the course of others we 
 have known, in most unexpected circumstances, and time 
 and place. Within this burial-ground I have stood at the 
 grave of a classmate, whom I knew at the university, then 
 a wild and popular youth, pursuing the same books, solv- 
 ing the same problems, contending for the same prizes, 
 and with hopes, I doubt not, swelling his bosom as high as 
 any of his associates. I saw him not, as I now remember, 
 from the hour I gave him my hand of parting, on the 
 morning succeeding the commencement exercises. But I 
 frequently heard of him, and among other things, that he 
 had become a religious man, pursued his studies of theol- 
 ogy, and gave himself to the cause of missions. He went 
 to China, and from China purposed a cruise among the 
 islands of these various seas. He reached Singapore with 
 fever already in his veins, and after some days died, in the 
 same dwelling from which the remains of the lovely mis- 
 
66 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 sionary this day were conveyed, while around him stood 
 his brethren who had devoted themselves to the same 
 cause. And he was borne to the same burial-place, and 
 now lies in his last sleep, to swell the number of early 
 martyrs to the cause of Asiatic missions. " STEVENS !" 
 How familiar that name sounds in the associations of the 
 college-hall ! How strange, when pronounced at his tomb 
 in this foreign land ! 
 
 And here, how often have I come on solemn duty since 
 the arrival of our ships at Singapore ! Nine times have I 
 read the burial service, in a less number of weeks, over 
 so many of our crew, who now lie in their death row of 
 American sailors, their names only recorded in the memory 
 of their shipmates, while the monument to the last one of 
 the last war's boatswains designates their graves and his 
 own resting-place in the soil of the enemy he had met. 
 
 And here too, at early sunrise, while the dew was yet 
 bespangling the green spires which carpet the hill-side of 
 this sweet spot, I have come to say the burial service over 
 the stranger to myself in the place of the English chaplain, 
 when himself too ill to officiate. The custom here is to 
 avoid the noonday sun, and at early morn or evening to 
 inter the dead. 
 
 This burial-ground occupies the western side of the 
 government hill. A small chapel (usual in English burial- 
 places for the temporary rest of the body, when the ser- 
 vice is to be in full performed) occupies one of the corners. 
 The lofty banian tree raises its high stem in grandeur and 
 grace far in the air ; and below the grounds on the same 
 acclivity, spreads forth to the view, in their luxuriant and 
 perpetual green, a grove of nutmeg trees, between which 
 and the rural grave-yard, w r inds the avenue up the hill- 
 side to the dwellings of the Governor. The stranger's eye 
 loves to linger on this spot as it greets his view from many 
 parts of his rides and walks through the town. " To be 
 placed in a spot so lovely, to me would yield some conso- 
 lation," I remarked once, "were I to die in Singapore. 
 My friends at least would have one bitter drained from 
 their cup of sorrow could they know how peaceful was 
 the rural ground where I rested." 
 
 " Not so did Mrs. W. seem to view this beautifully situ- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 67 
 
 ated burial-place," Mr. Wood replied, as we were ap- 
 proaching near it, on the eve of her burial. " She seemed 
 to have a presentiment that her remains would lie there ; 
 and one evening, when I was about to drive along this 
 path," he continued, " she begged I would take another 
 road. And in view of the possibility that she soon might 
 die, hoped that I would be prepared for the separation." 
 
 How mysterious are the visions that sometimes pass 
 over the mind, and leave upon the spirit the felt shades of 
 their dark- winged flight ! 
 
 EPISCOPAL CHURCH AT SINGAPORE. 
 
 The Episcopal church at Singapore is a new edifice, 
 consecrated within the last twelvemonth by bishop Wilson, 
 of Calcutta, within whose diocese the island is included. 
 The building has a commanding location, although situa- 
 ted on the plain, and occupies a spacious area, around 
 which a hedge of young bamboo has been planted, which 
 will make a beautiful empalement for the extended grounds. 
 The church is a conspicuous building as seen from the 
 shipping of the harbor. The style corresponds with the 
 necessities of the climate, the main building being entirely 
 surrounded by a verandah with heavy arched buttresses, 
 beneath which the carriages drive to the entrances of the 
 building, affording protection to one as he alights, both 
 from rain and sun. These buttresses give a heavy and 
 massive appearance to the otherwise Corinthian air of 
 lightness of the central part of the edifice ; and the stran- 
 ger who has contemplated it en masse, is surprised, on his 
 entrance, to find it not more spacious within. It is amply 
 large, however, for the usual congregation, and would 
 accommodate a larger one than will probably fill its seats 
 for years to come. It is finished inside with the red 
 wood of these regions, a good deal resembling mahogany, 
 though a greatly inferior and coarser wood. When the 
 ground shall be properly arranged and planted, as it 
 should be, with trees, and the edifice completed as to 
 many little arrangements still contemplated, the spot will 
 be a lovely one, and the temple a sweet and beautiful re- 
 treat for the worship of God. 
 
 33 
 
68 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 I preached for the Rev. Mr. White on two occasions, 
 during the stay of our ships at Singapore. Mr. W. read 
 the prayers. I should deem it, however, no way impro- 
 per for an American Episcopal clergyman, did the occa- 
 sion require it, to perform the English church service 
 before an English congregation. It might seem a little 
 peculiar for the citizen of a republic praying for the 
 successful reign of " our most gracious sovereign lord, 
 King William," or " Victoria, our most gracious Queen 
 and Governor." And yet the clergyman in this case is 
 but the leader of the prayers of the congregation. I must 
 confess, however, in my own case, I should in one or two 
 instances prefer to change the pronoun our for the article 
 the ; and, by the merest lapsus linguae -in the world, the 
 substitution might be made without materially interfering 
 with the rubrics or propriety, perhaps without attracting 
 notice. 
 
 I have been indebted to the courtesy of the English 
 clergymen in most of the places at which we have visited, 
 and invariably found them gentlemen of interest and edu- 
 cation. And they have ever given evidence that they 
 regarded the Episcopal church of the United States with 
 great partiality and kindness. They look upon her, as 
 she feels herself truly to be, a child of the church of Eng- 
 land ; and indeed, there is no difference that makes them 
 otherwise two churches than their different localities and 
 dates of origin. Our bishops have been given us by their 
 own church ; our Prayer Book altered from their own, 
 only to accommodate it to a different form of government, 
 and by the substitution and the omission of some few 
 words and brief sentences, which have the approbation 
 of themselves ; and this church was planted, too, by the 
 prayers, and solicitudes, and money of a common ances- 
 try. It is right, then, that we should cherish kindred 
 sympathies for the prosperity of each. And such is the 
 feeling of the church in the United States ; and such I 
 know to be the feelings among the members of the church 
 of England : and each at once feels himself at home, 
 when worshipping in the temples of the other. It is there- 
 fore to be regretted, that in England there should exist any 
 circumstances which prevent the English clergy from ex- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 69 
 
 tending to their American Episcopal brethren of the minis- 
 try the courtesies of their pulpits, when they visit Eng- 
 land. This has been the case, though it results, I believe, 
 from some civil disqualification each clergyman being 
 required by law to take the oath of allegiance previous to 
 his introduction to the pulpit of the English church. But 
 a little consideration, and the exertion of no more than 
 the influence which the English clergy possess, could re- 
 move the obstacle that prevents them from reciprocating 
 the courtesies which are always and at once tendered to 
 the English clergyman on his visiting the United States. 
 If, however, the British clergy at home continue to adhere 
 to their olden regulation on this subject, the American 
 clergyman will be quite contented in the self-complacency 
 of his own greater propriety and politeness.* 
 
 Dr. Wilson, Lord Bishop of Calcutta, was in Singapore 
 some few months since, at the consecration of the church 
 edifice here. Bishop W.'s name is well known in Amer- 
 ica, and has been highly commended, particularly and 
 most justly in connection with his book on the Evidences 
 of the Christian Religion. It was a pleasure I had hoped 
 for, to meet one whose writings had given me pleasure, 
 and whose character I had learned to appreciate as a 
 Christian and a scholar. I could have narrated one or 
 two instances where his work on the Evidences of the 
 Christian Religion has convinced the understanding of the 
 skeptical, and guided the enkindled feelings of the same 
 persons to the embracing of the hopes and the profession 
 of Christianity. 
 
 I made my last visit at the Rev. M. Orr's this evening, 
 the 20th, dined, and afterwards took a pleasant ride along 
 the beach, with Mrs. Orr ; and through the Chinese vil- 
 lage where Mr, and Mrs. O. will probably be located in 
 their endeavors to benefit the Chinese, by their Christian 
 labors for their welfare. At tea, we were joined by the 
 Rev. Mr. Wood. The subject of the resurrection of the 
 
 * Since the publication of the first edition of this work, there has 
 been a change in the ecclesiastical regulations of the English church 
 on the subject alluded to ; and an interesting instance of the cour- 
 tesy of the Mother Church to the American has been exhibited in 
 the case of the late visit of Bishop Doane to England. 
 
70 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 dead, the immortality of the soul, and the renewal of the 
 acquaintances of the Christian dead were among the 
 topics of conversation. 
 
 Admitting that our spirits shall remain the precise 
 beings that they now are, as to personal identity, which it 
 would seem must necessarily be true, and which we can- 
 not conceive of without the preservation of our memory 
 and the other faculties of the mind, it would seem that 
 some definite and probable inferences may be drawn in 
 connection with the future state. 
 
 As to our bodies, although there may be some connec- 
 tion between our present and our spiritual body, yet we 
 know that " flesh and blood cannot inherit the kingdom of 
 God." And I cannot conceive of a spirit divested of ma- 
 teriality, as possessing figure or weight any more than I 
 can conceive of a heavy, thick, oblong, triangular or rec- 
 tangular thought. Nor can I conceive of it as occupying 
 space, any more than does a thought ; and no one's head 
 was ever so rilled with them as to produce any mechanical 
 dismemberment. Besides, it is said that our bodies are 
 changing their particles every succession of a few years. 
 We know this from our daily observation as to our nails, 
 hair, etc., and therefore the particles of our body to-day 
 are different from what they will be to-morrow. Our 
 bodies, in fine, are composed of just what we eat, and 
 therefore are the same particles which have composed 
 the bodies of the animals and vegetables we have eaten. 
 And when these particles are analyzed it is found that the 
 muscles of the ox and the man, and the vegetable matter 
 which has been eaten, are composed of the same sub- 
 stances. And when these bodies go to decay, the conso- 
 lidated gases which compose the particles of which our 
 bodies are constituted, resolve themselves back to their 
 simple elementary elements of oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen, 
 phosphorus, and their few particles of the earths ; and 
 while the latter mingle with their kindred dust, the gases 
 composing the greater part of the body, decomposed to 
 their simple elements, rise from their deposite of the grave 
 or are dissipated from the funeral pyre to the gale ; and 
 in the whirlwind and the storm, may be, are borne from 
 the spice groves and evergreens of the East to another 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 71 
 
 continent in the West, or are soon re-drank by the vege- 
 table creation, which, in their turn, are re-consumed by 
 beast and man, and become the bodies of others in their 
 day and generation. Thus it becomes neither poetry nor 
 comedy, but a philosophical truth, that the bodies of our 
 grandfathers may be gazing upon us from the tops of the 
 trees that embower us, or resting in the cup of the beau- 
 tiful lotus as it sleeps on the still bosom of the lake, or is 
 just on the point of being devoured by a buffalo in the 
 shape of a potato, in its turn to be eaten by a Rajah, and 
 for a time to become a particle of his Malayship; or, in the 
 scattered divisions of the elements, perhaps another parti- 
 cle has been consumed in a glass of claret, and in its com- 
 binations in the system, has become the iris of the eye of 
 the proudest princess of Christendom. Thus in these 
 perpetual changes of nature, our bodies may be composed 
 of the particles which have entered into the compound 
 of millions of others ; and perhaps no one of them, in fact, 
 belong exclusively to ourselves. What then is the result 
 of these developments of science? It is the confirmation 
 of the sentiment of the apostle, that our bodies shall be 
 "spiritual" bodies, and that "flesh and blood cannot inher- 
 it the kingdom of heaven." 
 
 But of a spiritual body, as I have before hinted, I can- 
 not conceive of weight, thickness, or breadth, and without 
 these I am unable to conceive of form, any more than I 
 can conceive of a thought as possessing shape. The dif- 
 ficulty here, then, which would present itself to most minds, 
 would be, "How shall we recognise our friends in another 
 world, unless we can see them ? And how can we see 
 them unless they have a form ? And how remember them 
 unless this form be a resemblance of their persons as we 
 have seen them on earth ? 
 
 But, in the first place, I would reply, that we cannot 
 now see a spirit ; and unless matter shall be in existence 
 when all matter shall have passed away, then we shall 
 have certainly no physical eye to look from. But, how 
 would the idea of the objector improve the matter ? 
 Would he remember his friend as he knew him in his in- 
 fancy, or youth, or riper years, or as a gray-headed man? 
 How should the mother recall to her vision the little 
 
72 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 cherub of her affection, which went from her bosom almost 
 as soon as it was born, to the arms of Him who said, " Suf- 
 fer little children to come unto me ?" How should the 
 child recall the mother who left it in its cradle, as she went 
 from earth to the peace and purity and bliss of heaven ? 
 Or how should the resemblance be fixed for the rotundity 
 and health of the young and blushing cheek, or for the 
 thinner visage though not always less interesting lily fea- 
 tures of the young consumptive ? 
 
 But if these difficulties arise on the supposition, agree- 
 ably to a prevalent idea that our spiritual bodies are posi- 
 tive resemblances of our temporal ; the apparent impos- 
 sibility of recognition, as it will appear to some minds, 
 without this external resemblance, tends, they think, to 
 destroy that delightful anticipation of a reunion and asso- 
 ciation with our friends in heaven. But to me this is far 
 from being the necessary alternative, granting that the 
 difficulties as above stated in a philosophical view, are 
 real. In the first place, it is not the bodies of our friends 
 that we love. The person of our dearest friend, in com- 
 parison with many others, may be very ordinary in exter- 
 nal appearance. The form too, changes, and though once 
 interesting may cease to be so. But it is the mind the 
 soul the spirit that we love ; and it is that which lights 
 up this body ; and in our present mode of communication, 
 gives forth, through the eye and the lip and the counte- 
 nance, the real expression of that otherwise concealed 
 being of our friend. It is the thing which loves us, that 
 we love ; and which lives when the body crumbles to its 
 original elements. It is that part of our friend that weeps ; 
 that is happy ; that has made us weep, and has made us 
 happy. It is the soul which has given us its thoughts 
 the lights and shades of its character and felt when we 
 felt, and smiled when we smiled, and was happy when 
 we were happy ; and would live and would die for us. 
 It is this, to which our own spirits are bound. And give 
 me the power to commune with THIS through eternity, and 
 to love this, and to be happy with this through eternal 
 years, and the body and its resemblances may go to their 
 dust, and pass with the material world at the end of time 
 to their original chaos. It is the indestructible part of my 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 73 
 
 friend the memory, the imaginative, the perceptive, con- 
 ceptive, and reasoning powers and passions of the soul 
 to which I wish to be united. And will it be difficult to 
 find such, in the world of blessedness, where, on the sup- 
 position that the essence of the soul and personal indentity 
 remain, we shall still be social and intellectual beings ; 
 and as a consequence, commune with each other? A 
 single idea conveyed to or from our friend, would call up 
 all the memories of another world, and the recognition be 
 of that which we have loved, and ourselves again be uni- 
 ted in sentiment and affection with the social, the intellec- 
 tual, the loving spirit of our friend. It may be ideas then, 
 rather than resemblances of form, that shall produce our 
 recognition, as is often the case in this world. How often 
 have the features of our friend so changed in his absence 
 that we trace not, on the re-greeting, any resemblance of 
 him to whom we gave the hand for a long separation ! 
 But a single word, a single idea, causes the heart to leap 
 with the joys of memory, that tell us we are again with 
 the unchanged and unforgetting spirit of one we loved 
 and yet love. 
 
 But this is already too long a nota bene of a few thoughts 
 which were passing between us at Mr. O.'s, on the eve 
 of my last visit, and for which I hold neither of those gen- 
 tlemen responsible, but as rather constituting my own 
 passing reflections at the moment. It was an agreeable 
 hour of an interchange of thoughts with these intelligent 
 friends, and a happy moment of communion, as all contem- 
 plated the certainty that the soul should be supremely 
 blessed in that state of being, whither the Christian is rap- 
 idly tending, and where some of our dearest friends, but 
 lately, were gone. 
 
 And, indeed, it is a blessed field of enjoyment, which 
 opens before the redeemed one, as a social, intellectual, and 
 immortal spirit, retaining the susceptibilities of his spiritual 
 nature, which shall be gratified in the society of heaven. 
 There he shall meet those, from every age, to narrate the 
 incidents of the past, in the providence of God, relating to 
 the history of the world, and with millions of yet unborn 
 spirits ; who, again, shall tell of that which shall come 
 after his own passage from the earth. And I could not 
 
74 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 but add to my friends, (whom it was not probable I should 
 meet again after this evening's parting,) that, "if hereafter 
 we shall meet in heaven, I think I shall there and then like 
 to know of you what was your wo and your joy, while 
 you lengthened out your day of earth here, in your mis- 
 sions of the East." 
 
 We knelt, as usual, before we separated, in prayer, 
 after a chapter had been read and a hymn sung. I shall 
 long remember the sweet voice of Mrs. O. We wrung 
 each other's hands and parted. 
 
 RIDE TO BOOKITIMA. 
 
 The time was now arrived when the ships were ordered 
 to be in readiness for sea. Word had been passed that 
 the succeeding Wednesday would be the day of sailing 
 for our ships. All officers were to be on board, Tuesday 
 evening, and no boat or officer afterwards to leave the 
 frigate. Yet a few days would intervene. One, therefore, 
 I devoted to a ride to Bookitima, said to be the highest 
 ground on the island of Singapore, and distant some six 
 or seven miles from the town. I had already ridden to 
 most of the plantations in the neighborhood, marking the 
 growth of pepper, gambir, coffee, cloves, and nutmegs. A 
 fine smooth road has been cut quite to the top of Booki- 
 tima ; and to avoid the necessity of walking up any part 
 of the hill-steep in the sun, I procured an additional horse 
 to serve me in case the first I drove should give out. The 
 road lies along the level through the plantations in the low 
 grounds for a few miles, until you reach the commence- 
 ment of the ascent, formerly not attempted by horses, but 
 since the road alluded to has been constructed, and but 
 lately finished by the government's convicts, it is practi- 
 cable to ascend to the hill-top, provided you have a horse 
 that is good for aught but being led by a half-robed syce 
 over a level surface. No sooner had we reached the 
 commencement of the ascent, before the horse protested 
 against any change of olden customs and all new innova- 
 tions. Stay he would, any how, as usual, at the foot of 
 the hill. 
 
 " Put in the other horse, syce," I said to the driver, as 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 75 
 
 the palanquin door was opened, and Mrs. D. and myself 
 commenced our walk over the smooth path, as an accept- 
 able change, minus the sun that penetrated too easily the 
 silk of a dark umbrella. Mr. D. joined us, and sent on 
 his carriage with his little charge, up the acclivity. 
 
 The dubash dismounted the extra steed, and the two 
 dark skins commenced the dismantling of the palanquin 
 animal and substituting the " prime" riding horse. We 
 had wound up the spiral road into the grateful shade, which 
 the tall and thick growth of the hill-side threw upon the 
 embowered path ; and ere long the dubash came on, sans 
 horse, sans palanquin, sans saddle-horse. This prime horse, 
 which we had taken with us as our forlorn hope, for va- 
 rious reasons unlearned, imitated the said other obstinate 
 animal, and alike declared in actions, which speak louder 
 than words, that he was an humble imitator, and not a set- 
 ter of fashions ; and if his kindred flesh did not choose to 
 advance, he had not the presumption by any course of his 
 to lead to any reflections upon his associate. To settle 
 the controversy between bay horse and brown Malay, 
 the forlorn hope deliberately backed the palanquin, from 
 its little advance, down to the foot of the hill. 
 
 " Well, Krishna, why did you not ride up the saddle- 
 horse, if you could get neither on with the palanquin ?" 
 
 " Master, horse no come, any how." 
 
 " Can't believe that, Krishna." 
 
 " Master, he no come, any how." 
 
 The dubash continued to protest with additional em- 
 phasis, but the secret afterwards developed itself, that the 
 horse would not let the said Krishna re-mount him after 
 he had been so insulted as to be put into the palanquin- 
 shafts as a draw-horse. 
 
 Preferring to walk leisurely, by the way of perusing 
 some manuscripts which had been brought for pleasure 
 and amusement, we sauntered up the hill, passing the little 
 streamlet that gushes, in refreshing and pure ripples, from 
 a riven rock, leading back the association to the prophetic 
 Moses and a thirsting people, who then, as others in later 
 times, were slow in their confidence in the Creator of 
 bountiful and beautiful nature. 
 
 We ere long reached the top of Bookitima. Before us 
 
76 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 now lay field, forest, plantation, and the outlines of the 
 whole island of Singapore, the distant water, like narrow 
 lakes, meeting the eye on every side but one, designating 
 the extent of the island. But a single view was enough. 
 The prospect has nothing to attract with interest, as the 
 view extends into the blue distance, to one who has gazed 
 on richer landscapes, and mountain-scenery, and ocean 
 stretching from the foot of the lofty mountain-side for 
 leagues in the distance to sea. It is, however, a pleasant 
 ride, when pleasant friends accompany you, like sweet 
 solitude, when at your side you have a friend to whom 
 you may whisper, how sweet is solitude, as some French- 
 man has hinted, who was no less correct in his remark 
 than another of his penetrating species, who defines grati- 
 tude to be a keen zest for favors that are to come. 
 
 As soon as a comfortable shade had been found, (the 
 English have committed sacrilege here, in cutting down 
 almost all the magnificent trees which but lately stood upon 
 this elevated point, as if vistas could not have been much 
 better opened to exhibit the distant prospect,) Krishna 
 made an acceptable display of his fine pine-apples and 
 other fruits, et cetera, arid liquids, which the providence 
 of my friends had provided, and which our ride had made 
 no less agreeable to the taste than acceptable to the eye. 
 
 The horses having been detached from the carriages, 
 the shafts of Mr. D.'s gig had been elevated to a horizon- 
 tal line, and poised upon one of the stumps which some of 
 the haters of nature's most tasteful arrangements had caused 
 to occupy the place, divested of its legitimate stem and 
 foliage. I had placed myself in the gig beside Mrs. D. and 
 her little girl, as affording to the party a comfortable seat 
 during our delay, without thinking of centres of gravity, 
 or lines of direction falling without their base, or of acci- 
 dents occurring to all kinds of vehicles when this is the 
 case nor was I at all mindful that the gig w r as occupying 
 a point whence a rapid declivity commenced its inclined 
 plane. And having thus long forgotten all about wheel 
 and axle and shaft, in an acceptable tete-a-tete, suddenly, 
 by some slight change of position in the occupants of the 
 gig, or other cause, (of no consequence here, as the inci- 
 dent is the remembered thing,) the shafts of the gig were 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 77 
 
 seen to be assuming a direction as if they were about to 
 take the altitude of the sun, and the wheels seemed in 
 thoughtful intent of moving down the declivity ; but by 
 some good fortune the three occupants were gently let 
 down to the ground, to the discomfiture of nothing else 
 than the calash-top of the gig, which will afford the imi- 
 tative Chinese a further opportunity of exercising their 
 genius in patch-work. 
 
 I believe few persons, when uninjured and safely out of 
 a danger, if they have shared it with agreeable friends, 
 regret the occurrence, which rather adds another agree- 
 able coil to the memory, which, in the future, shall unroll 
 its trail of agreeable recollections. 
 
 The bays and the Malays having sufficiently fed them- 
 selves and rested, we were again on our return-way to town, 
 preferring to descend the hill on foot. Having re-entered 
 our carriages, in a short time we completed our way back ; 
 and finishing the last manuscript, as my friend will remem- 
 ber, in the early part of the drive, we reached the house 
 of Mr. D. in time for an early dinner. 
 
 It is a pleasant ride, I repeat that drive to Bookitima, 
 if pleasant friends accompany you. 
 
 I was early at my room in the evening ; and though 
 alone, yet not in solitude did I spend the bonne heure soli- 
 taire. 
 
 LEAVE-TAKING. 
 
 It matters not how long one may have lingered on his 
 cruise at any particular place, where he has met with va- 
 rious interesting things, and yet more interesting friends 
 the last twenty-four hours of his stay will always find him 
 with many things to be done, and not a few things to be 
 said. He must make his last calls, or despatch notes of 
 adieu ; and he must gather the curiosities which have been 
 accumulating on his hands, and arrange a thousand things, 
 which before could not be arranged, and have conveyed 
 to the ship his chattels, cherished mementoes, and by some 
 last act of courtesy, reciprocate the choice favors of his 
 friends. 
 
 I could not, with horse and palanquin, go the round of 
 all my acquaintances, to whom I had been glad verbally 
 
78 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to say, how truly they would be recalled in my future 
 memories of Singapore ; but all other things being ad- 
 justed, so that I should find myself in readiness for the 
 frigate's sailing, on reaching the ship to-night, I started to 
 take the rounds of several families, among the number of 
 those whose acquaintance I had formed, and whose friend- 
 ship I would hope to retain. At such an hour I would not 
 wish to feel otherwise than sadly, whether the feeling be 
 expressed or not, as evincing most truly that I have been 
 happy in the society of those with whom I am soon to part. 
 What care we, though we leave forever those whose hearts 
 have never moved more quickly when ours have warmed 
 with whom we have exchanged nought of the confidence 
 of friendship in whose association no sudden burst of 
 sentiment, no new train of thought, no impromptu extrav- 
 agance of word, in humorous or in grave remark, have 
 been awakened ? We feel that no chain of sympathy has 
 connected our hearts, with its golden links, to theirs. But 
 it is with those who have been sad when we were sad 
 have laughed when we have laughed were devout when 
 we have been devout, and could appreciate, and under- 
 stand, and excuse your own mode of thinking and speak- 
 ing and acting, and pardon you when you did not think, or 
 speak, or act it is with such you have irrevocably blend- 
 ed your thoughts, your interests, your feelings ; and when 
 you go to their homes, to say adieu, probably for all com- 
 ing time, a sigh escapes you as you approach their dwell- 
 ing; and you smile perhaps in their presence, and say cheer- 
 ful things, but the heart weeps if the eye be not melted, as 
 you take the long farewell, no more to return to the inter- 
 view, which has so often been the source of your augment- 
 ed happiness. 
 
 " It is but a material separation which takes place be- 
 tween friends, when they part. Their souls are as certainly 
 united as when their bodies are in each other's presence. 
 Let us regard the spirit then as our friend, and the body only 
 as its temporary residence as we have learned to think 
 of the Spirit that has made us. Then, separation is noth- 
 ing, and death itself only to be regarded as a passage-boat, 
 to convey us, not only to our God, but to our friends, no 
 more to part." 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 79 
 
 This sentiment was uttered by one on whom I called 
 to-day, March 27th, to say farewell, and whom I shall 
 cherish as a friend that will not forget, nor will be forgot- 
 ten. It was worthy of the mind that conceived it, and the 
 heart that felt it. And he who has but a slight power over 
 the trains of his own association, to concentrate his thoughts 
 on those subjects which please him most, and has been in 
 the habit of marking the light and the shade in the thoughts 
 and the feelings of the friend for whom he has formed an 
 attachment, will feel that there is truth most certain and 
 welcome in the sentiment expressed. It is the thoughts, 
 the kindlings of emotion, the remark that discovered the 
 play of the mind, the feeling of the soul, the character and 
 the combined worth of the spirit with which we have been 
 delighted, that we cherish in the review ; and these men- 
 tal perceptions associated with our friends, are indestruc- 
 tible and inseparable in our own minds, recurring ever as 
 agreeable memories ; and the pleasurable emotions they 
 awake are invariable consequents of the welcome recol- 
 lections. Then is it true, that the spirits of friends, in the 
 commingling of the memories of the past, know, that while 
 many leagues of ocean and land may forbid their bodily 
 presence, their spirits may be ever and indivisibly united. 
 
 Having made the calls I had proposed to myself, I drove 
 through the grove of nutmegs to the beautiful burial -ground 
 not, certainly, there to inter forever the recollections 
 which I had treasured up in my associations with friends 
 at Singapore, but as a fit place at the sweet hour of even- 
 ing, to pause for a half hour, in a leisure and solitary prom- 
 enade through the grounds of this rural spot. I stayed my 
 step at the grave of Stevens, and for a moment, carried 
 back my thoughts to days and scenes spent in another hem- 
 isphere, when together we trod the same halls of the uni- 
 versity, and stored our minds with the lore of other days 
 from the same volumes, and drank at the same founts of 
 literature and science. Those were days of calm, as we 
 look back upon them through the vista of a bustling world, 
 from which one would almost wish to retire again to the 
 peaceful shades of the academy, to rest from the turmoil 
 and the change and the excitement of the general society 
 of man. 
 
 34 
 
80 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 I passed on through the grounds, and culled a handful of 
 flowers from shrub and tree that wave above monument 
 or beside tombstone, until I repassed the row of American 
 sailors, whose resting-place is marked by a new monument 
 over the body of the boatswain of the Adams, who rests 
 in their midst. Here we leave them, to wait their call to 
 judgment. They came with us! 
 
 I passed down, on my way to the portal, and stood upon 
 a small and green hillock, conspicuous in its location on 
 the left as you enter the gateway of the grounds. And 
 there, was the newly-made grave of the young and lovely 
 missionary. I thought how like a beautiful rose-bud, with 
 the worm at its heart, she had drooped and died, ere yet 
 half its lovely petals had expanded. And then, how sad 
 was the story, that even then was being borne over the 
 ocean to parents, whose hearts ere long were destined sadly 
 to break, as they would hear that their child, in her early 
 age of twenty-two years, had left her place of earth, for a 
 home in heaven ! I had not thought that one so interesting, 
 when first we met, would be so soon reposing in her sleep 
 of the grave-yard, and that I should be called to recite the 
 solemn rite of burial at her funeral hour. No breeze was 
 stirring up the hill-side at this soft hour, and all was still, 
 save the zephyr that now and ever rustled the long and 
 narrow leaves of the green and beautiful cane-hedge, 
 which surrounds this land of silence, or whispered through 
 the spicy foliage of the grove of nutmegs. I strewed the 
 flowers upon her mound, and placed three roses above the 
 bosom of the lovely sleeper, and turned and left those 
 grounds for ever. 
 
 The sundown boat was already at the dock. But the 
 flags of the European and American shipping were yet 
 flying, as the sun had not quite sunk beneath the horizon ; 
 and the broad blue pennant of the Columbia waved at the 
 top of the main-mast of the frigate. A man-of-war is 
 always an object of interest in the port where she is lying. 
 At sunset, when her colors fall, the flags of all the shipping 
 in port, at the same instant, drop, in compliment to the war- 
 ship. The flag-ship, therefore, as the centre of attraction, 
 at such an hour, has many eyes turned towards her, to 
 mark the first settling of her ensign. The sundown mu- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 81 
 
 sic was already rolling off, when our boat had reached 
 half her way on her return to the ship. And there she lay 
 to-night, with many eyes at this moment resting upon her 
 beautiful proportions, watching the first slight movement 
 in her trembling colors as they should severally drop, in 
 another moment, from the gaff and the main. But it was 
 the last time these same flags, in their fall, would desig- 
 nate the hour to the shipping of the harbor, for folding their 
 bunting. And it was from this circumstance that I gazed 
 upon the scene with greater interest. " There they go," 
 exclaimed the officer beside me, and together in beautiful 
 harmony were the flags of every ship in the harbor seen 
 falling to their decks. And to-morrow, thou beautiful cour- 
 ser, thy starred and striped emblem shall wave adieu to 
 yon shore, hill, dwelling, and friends, from which thy last 
 boat now conveys us. 
 
 On the succeeding morning, the 28th of March, our 
 ships were standing, under a press of canvass, from the 
 harbor of Singapore. The town ere long was left in the 
 blue distance, and the outline of the land, where we had 
 lingered for nearly two months, faded, and sunk, and now 
 was lost beneath the horizon. 
 
 We are again at sea. 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 The Morrison, a missionary ship. Rev. Mr. Dickinson, Extract from a 
 letter written at the point antipodes to New-York city. Arrive at the 
 harbor of Macao, in China. Canton, half-way point around the globe. 
 
 As our ship fell off from her moorings and filled away, 
 we passed a little to the leeward but quite near the ship 
 Morrison, which had come into the harbor the preceding 
 evening. This vessel is called the "missionary ship," and 
 is worthy of the appellation, in view of the* generous and 
 Christian action of her owners, Messrs. Oliphant, King, 
 and Co., in their endeavors to favor the cause of missions. 
 
82 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 She has often conveyed, without charge, the missionary 
 from home to his destination in the East, and in the East 
 from one station to another. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Dickinson is a passenger in the Morri- 
 son, from Canto to Singapore. His arrival was unexpect- 
 ed, and I had hoped the pleasure of meeting him at Ma- 
 cao. I am not sure that we have seen each other in 
 America, but think we have, and expected to have found 
 him, at least, from the same college with myself. Had 
 we delayed twelve hours longer we should have met. 
 But we are now lengthening the line rapidly, which, every 
 hour, measures wider the distance between us. As I 
 gazed on the mission ship, a fine specimen of an American 
 merchant-vessel, I thought of the amiable family of her 
 owner, and some of their neighbors of Bond-street, with 
 gentle and affectionate kindness. 
 
 ANTIPODES TO THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. 
 
 " Frigate Columbia, at sea, April 9th, 1839. 
 
 " MY DEAR E. We left Singapore a few days since, 
 and to-day, whereabouts in the China sea do you guess 
 that we are? Precisely on the parallel of longitude which 
 makes you and me on opposite sides of the globe. The 
 longitude of New- York is 74 1' 8" west of Greenwich. 
 At twelve o'clock to-day, our ship was in longitude 105 
 43' 45" ; and since, we have slowly glided over a little 
 more than fifteen miles, which makes us this evening, and 
 while I am writing, within a few rods of being directly 
 opposite Bond-street, or one hundred and eighty degrees 
 east of the City Hall. And were the earth to be severed 
 in half with a case knife (what a metaphor) at this mo- 
 ment, with the plane of section passing through your par- 
 lor, it would stand nine chances out of ten of hitting 
 both of us. 
 
 " The earth, to me, since I have been sailing thus far 
 around it, (having now reached the point of half its cir- 
 cumference,) appears to be a very small thing in measure- 
 ment, though mighty indeed in its associations of the mil- 
 lions who, each generation, are coming upon it and pass- 
 ing from it. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 83 
 
 " And the distance to you from me to-night, through the 
 globe, is only some eight thousand miles. You see the 
 advantage one would enjoy, were a tunnel sunken through 
 the earth from the China sea to New- York. The nearest 
 way a bird could take over the circumference of the 
 earth, would be some more than twelve thousand miles, 
 and we have sailed more than twenty thousand in doubling 
 capes, islands, shoals, etc., including our wild-goose chase 
 down the west coast of Sumatra, after unfledged Malay 
 bipeds. 
 
 " From this point, too, you may conceive of me as being 
 on my return-way, as every day we sail we shall be les- 
 sening the 180 degrees of longitude we are now from you. 
 And then, when we shall reach you, by continually sailing 
 east from the time we left you, we shall have gained one 
 day, and the world will have turned around once less with 
 us than with you ; and should we reach New-York on 
 Sunday, according to the reckoning with us it will be 
 Saturday with you, and we shall have the curious expe- 
 rience of proving the old adage, in some cases to be false, 
 that * two Sundays never come together/ 
 
 " I finished a letter to K. T. last night, or I should not 
 have ventured to occupy so much of this with such a dis- 
 quisition on the rotundity of this bit of a compound of 
 land and ocean. 
 
 " Ding, ding ding ! goes the John Adams' three bells, 
 just under our larboard beam, very like the sound of some 
 passing steamer, as I hear it from my state-room port, 
 so pleasantly and near are the two ships sailing together. 
 And to-night, just as the Adams' music beat to quarters, 
 at sunset, she had come up so close to the frigate, that we 
 could distinguish the features of the officers from our quar^ 
 ter, and distinctly hear every order given on board the 
 Adams by the officer of the deck. 
 
 " Three bells of the first watch, is half-past nine o'clock. 
 Another half hour, or at four bells, and our lights are put 
 out, unless an officer ask permission to retain his longer, 
 which it is expected will not be done, unless something of 
 particular importance is to be attended to. A few mo- 
 ments only remain for me to adjust myself for the night's 
 cradling, before the voice of that almost always disagree- 
 
 34* 
 
84 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 able master-at-arms will be heard so untimely at my door, 
 * Ten o'clock, sir.' Therefore, my dear E., good-night ; 
 and may kind dreams and kind angels attend thee." 
 
 We were standing in through the islands last night, 
 the 27th of April, for Macao ; and yesterday and to-day 
 the change in the temperature of the air has been very 
 great, in contrast with the clear and pleasant atmosphere 
 we had during our stay at Singapore and passage up the 
 China sea. The thermometer has fallen ten degrees. So 
 sudden a change, occurring in almost twenty-four hours, 
 has metamorphosed our crew into a dark-clad set, with 
 woollen roundabouts and trousers of the same material, 
 for their light duck pantaloons and simple frocks. 
 
 This morning, the 27th, we came to anchor off Macao, 
 and this evening ran in still nearer the town, lying now 
 at a distance of some five or six miles from the city, 
 though in full view of the town, and the shipping riding 
 at their anchors in considerable numbers about two miles 
 from the shore. 
 
 Here then we are at last, in the neighborhood of Can- 
 ton, a point towards which we have been looking with 
 particular interest from the time of our sailing, as the half- 
 way point around the world ; and towards which the vision 
 of every child of the west has been directed when think- 
 ing of the Indies, where his tea came from, and where 
 that singular people of the "Celestial Empire," who wear 
 long braids touching their feet, dwell ; to whom we have 
 been so largely indebted for toys, trinkets, chessmen, and 
 China silks, China cups, and ginger sweetmeats. 
 
 But every thing here is all aback. No communication 
 between Canton and Macao ; and the American and Eng- 
 lish merchants held "in durance vile," some two hundred 
 of them at Canton, feeding, without servants, on rice and 
 water, until all the opium shall have been given up to the 
 Chinese authorities. And our letters, waiting us in Can- 
 ton, are destined, they say, there to wait, until the " trade 
 is re-opened." The Chinese seem to have some pluck, 
 with an empire of three hundred and sixty millions against 
 a handful of merchants. Heigh-ho, for long-expected 
 home news ! 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 85 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 CHINA. 
 MACAO. 
 
 Visit to the shore. Matins. H. B. M. ship Larne. Impression produced 
 by the arrival of the Columbia. Foreigners held prisoners at Canton. 
 Stroll through the Bazaar. Origin of the word Chowder. Chinese wo- 
 men with little feet. An apology for the custom of contracting them in 
 infancy. Mrs. King. The City of Macao. Cassa Gardens and Camo- 
 en's Cave. Latin lines to Camoen's Cave. Translation. English Burial 
 Ground. Grave of Miss Gillespie. Lines. Inscriptions on the Monu- 
 ments of Roberts and Campbell. Residence on shore. The Campo. 
 Visit at Mr. G.'s. Letters from Home. Preach in the English Chapel. 
 American Missionaries, Presbyterians and Baptists. Mr. King. Mr. and 
 Mrs. Squire. Woman. Preach and administer the Communion. Call 
 on Captain Elliot, the British Superintendent. His measures, and Chinese 
 difficulties. Painting of George the Fourth. Dine with Captain Elliot. 
 Mr. Beal's Garden. Bird of Paradise. Missionaries in China, and Mis- 
 sionary prospects. A father's farewell letter to his daughter, on her leav- 
 ing for a Foreign Mission. The ships change their anchorage from Macao 
 Roads to Tung-Koo Bay. Catholic processions. The Author leaves Macao 
 for Canton. Description of the passage, and approach to the city. The au- 
 thor meets Dr. Parker at the American Hong, and takes up his residence 
 there during his stay in the Provincial City. 
 
 I CAME on shore early this morning, April 30th, 1839. 
 Having secured my room at the hotel, I sallied forth for an 
 early morning walk, as I heard the bells for matins strik- 
 ing in different parts of the town. The church-going bell 
 has always had a charm in it for me ; and nowhere has 
 its tones broken on my ear more sweetly than when its 
 cadence came over a green lawn from a village-spire. In 
 the crowded city, at home, its notes seem to struggle as if 
 its vibrations were pent up by the brick walls, and its mel- 
 low breathings disturbed by the noisy pavements or the 
 hum of the thousand voices of the multitude crowding to 
 the thronged temples. But abroad, the matin and the ves- 
 per bell, in village or in city, have all the romance of re- 
 ligion associated with them ; and the poetry of the solemn 
 abbey, and the silence of the spacious cathedral, awake 
 visions in which the imagination of him who loves the 
 plaintive, the lonely, and the sad, finds congenial aliment 
 
86 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 for its wild and welcome combinations. Fiction has done 
 much in throwing a deep romantic interest around the Ro- 
 man Catholic religion. The novels we have perused in 
 our young days have had their scenes within the cloisters, 
 and the cowled priest and the veiled nun have acted their 
 conspicuous parts in the tragedy and the love-drama, over 
 which the young imagination has lingered with excited 
 interest, as we have spent our young emotions. Indeed I 
 can remember when it was my desire, however much my 
 private sentiments would lead me to wish the suppression 
 of those fraternities and sisterhoods of the monastery and 
 the nunnery for a wiser system of public benevolence and 
 private piety, that it might be within the compass of my own 
 journeyings to visit these recluses, as they exist abroad, 
 before they should crumble, in the revolution of time and 
 sentiment, to decay and ruin. And I have seen them, both 
 at home and abroad. 
 
 It is my habit, the first morning I spend in a foreign 
 place where the Roman Catholic religion prevails, to at- 
 tend matins. I go not irreverently there, but love to seek 
 the stillness and the solitude of the spacious cathedral, 
 which is rendered doubly more silent and solemn by the 
 few, perhaps single worshipper, seen kneeling in the ex- 
 tended area constituting the floor of the massive building, 
 while the low murmur of the priest at the far-in altar 
 comes, in impressive and scarcely heard whispers, to the 
 ear. It is a fit place for the stranger to carry back his 
 thoughts to the past to remember the kind Providence 
 that has been with him to the present to think of those 
 he loves far away and of his God, to whose care he 
 would commend them and then, with all these thousand 
 memories, and musings, and emotions which they awake, 
 to offer the silent prayer to the Deity, to whom he owes 
 all from whom he hopes all and whom he would love, 
 adore, and worship, with thankfulness, dependence, and 
 devotion. 
 
 I returned to the hotel better prepared to relish a shore- 
 cup of delicious tea and a very good breakfast ; and met 
 at the table two or three of the officers of H. B. M. ship 
 Larne. They politely invited me to take a stroll with 
 them through the bazaar, after breakfast. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 87 
 
 The Lame, the British sloop of war, is here, delaying 
 on account of the late disturbances between the Chinese 
 and the foreigners. She is the only war-ship we have 
 found here ; and in the possibility of additional difficulties 
 with the Chinese, they having threatened to cut off all sup- 
 plies from Macao, our arrival has proved very acceptable 
 to all. There are several war-junks moored in front of 
 the city, threatening all that such monsters in nautical 
 science are capable of threatening, and at least working 
 so powerfully upon the imaginations and personal appre- 
 hensions of the Chinese part of the population of Macao, 
 as to render them unwilling to traffic openly with the for- 
 eigners. And the officers of the Larne were kind, on 
 our arrival, in sending a boat which contained fresh pro- 
 visions for themselves to our ship, under the apprehension 
 that we might find it difficult to gain an immediate 
 supply. 
 
 i Indeed, the arrival of our ship here has been particu- 
 larly opportune ; and the apprehensions of all the foreign- 
 ers, as well as the Portuguese, whose settlement of Macao 
 has been threatened positively and openly, are allayed ; 
 and the community feel that they have a sufficient protec- 
 tion to prevent any further high-handed measure on the 
 part of the Chinese. 
 
 Almost all the American and English gentlemen are 
 now at Canton, there held imprisoned within the grounds 
 of the foreign factories, and are there to remain until the 
 stipulated amount of opium (20,000 chests) shall have been 
 delivered up. Our own arrival is said already to have 
 had its effect upon the tone of the Chinese authorities, suf- 
 ficient time having already passed for them to gain at 
 Canton, through their own agents, knowledge of our an- 
 choring in the Roads. It would be a fete gratifying, I 
 doubt not, to all the officers of our ship, from the highest 
 to the lowest, to force the Bogue, and to demand without 
 delay the Americans now held within their premises at 
 Canton. But the apprehension is, that, as their numbers 
 are comparatively so small, and a mob of a numerous 
 
 I populace are ever so ready to do the bidding of the reck- 
 less and the abandoned, our approach might be attended 
 with danger from the rabble at Canton, The authorities 
 
88 
 
 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 themselves have said, all that they have to do for the de- 
 struction of those now within their power is, to allow the 
 mob to do their own wishes. And there may be truth in 
 in all this, as there is a general impression among the lower 
 classes of the Chinese at Canton, that the foreign factories 
 are filled with the precious metals, and that the plunder 
 were well w r orth the sacrifice of the heads of the few "for- 
 eign devils" that have the custody of it. It is in view of 
 these possibilities, and perhaps just apprehensions, that our 
 Consul advises that no action should be had on the part of 
 the Commodore, until other exigencies may call for it ; 
 and that the readiest way for the Americans and the Eng- 
 lish to effect their departure from Canton is, to await qui- 
 etly for the delivery of the specified quantity of opium, 
 which is now being rapidly accomplished through the Eng- 
 lish superintendent of trade. Captain Elliot. When this 
 shall have been done, if the assurances of the Chinese au- 
 thorities are to be depended upon, the foreigners will be 
 permitted to leave Canton for Macao. 
 
 FIRST RAMBLE THROUGH THE BAZAARS. 
 
 I accompanied the officers of the Lame in a ramble 
 through the bazaar, as they had politely offered to point 
 out the way to this collection of shops, which contain the 
 principal curiosities of Chinese manufacture to be found 
 at Macao. And I was gratified to perceive that, in the 
 event of our ultimately being unable to visit Canton, the 
 Chinese bazaar at Macao would afford almost all the ar- 
 ticles of curiosity and of utility we had hoped to secure at 
 Canton. The bazaar is composed of a mass of small, one- 
 and-a-half story shops, lining uninterruptedly both sides of 
 several narrow streets the streets themselves being gen- 
 erally flagged by long and roughly cut granite slabs or 
 blocks, rendering the streets, though narrow, (being only 
 sufficient for three or four persons to walk abreast,) clean 
 but thickly crowded. Here the Chinese display the whole 
 of the interior of their shop with their shelves lining the 
 three sides the front part of the building being so con- 
 structed as to be removed during the day, for the display 
 of the interior. And here may be found all those millions 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 89 
 
 of Chinese trinkets, and thousands of more useful things, 
 which we have seen in another hemisphere, and have been 
 told, in other days, that they came from China. The dash- 
 ing lady* might regale her eye, by a simple request of 
 Mr. Chinese Kingti, with crape shawls of different colors, 
 and different patterns, and different prices, from what 
 would be valued in America at ten to one hundred dollars. 
 And if she desired it, she might, per order, have one 
 wrought with embroidery according to her own taste and 
 pattern, to cost any amount short of a round thousand. 
 And then, she might be pleased in looking over a box of 
 scarfs some very pretty, some very indifferent and then, 
 examine some very pretty embroidered aprons, that would 
 please the young lady of fifteen, and be quite admissible 
 for her to appear in at breakfast. And then, she might 
 examine the many and rich colored silks as they unfolded 
 their rolls one after another ; and if she found them entire- 
 ly clear of spots, she might say that this and that is very 
 
 Eretty, and very heavy; but, after all, France and Switzer- 
 md and Italy give us quite as beautiful dresses as these 
 would make ; and however fond they may be of making 
 good profits at Stewart's in Broadway, the dress would 
 come cheaper, and after all, probably look richer and last 
 longer. And then, if she herself may be fond of embroi- 
 dering, she certainly would be tempted to industry as that 
 rich and beautifully colored floss-silk of every dye was 
 laid open before her covetous eye, while the visions of un- 
 wrought lilies and roses and carnations and tulips, and 
 leaves of the grape-vine, and half-expanded buds of moss- 
 roses recalled her recollections of handiwork that she had 
 already inlaid upon the canvass. And perhaps, perhaps, 
 it would even recur to her, at the moment, as a lingering, 
 interloping thought, that, if she had possessed all these 
 rich dyes, she might have added one more beauty to a fa- 
 vorite pair of beautiful slippers, which her own hands had 
 embroidered, and which, with her gentlest smile of kind- 
 ness, her own hand had presented to the partial friend, 
 
 * It is not usual for ladies to shop it in Macao, though they some- 
 times thus indulge themselves. They more usually send to the shops 
 and request whatever they would see to be sent to their dwellings. 
 
90 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 from whom she desired, but did not ask, a memory for her 
 own gentle self. And then, there is an article almost rich 
 enough for a bride herself, and only surpassed by the pina 
 of Manilla for its fineness and its beauty. It rivals the 
 bishop's lawn, and the finest cannot always be procured. 
 But it is of gossamer lightness when it can be, and floats 
 on the air like wreaths of which the softest clouds are 
 made. 
 
 But we could not linger long at Kingti's, and we passed 
 to his neighbors, and found that the richest and most deli- 
 cate China ware comes from Nanking, and some of it is 
 exquisite. But the diminution in the porcelain trade has 
 reduced the amount of the manufactured articles, and full 
 sets of the costliest kinds can hardly be found, but must be 
 made per order. And there were rich Nanking vases, 
 which we found we could purchase for one hundred dollars 
 a pair. They were exquisite, and would be richly ornamen- 
 tal anywhere, when crowned with gorgeous and lovely 
 flowers, for which they were made. 
 
 The Chinese are fond of flowers, but cultivate them al- 
 most exclusively in vases, which are generally constructed 
 of a rough porcelain material, and glazed, to stand the in- 
 clemencies of the weather and the continued exposure of 
 the open air. 
 
 But nothing crowds more upon the attention of the stran- 
 ger, as he walks through the bazaar, than the great variety 
 of the chow-chow,* eatable things in the shape of pickles, 
 sweetmeats, ginger-root, just taken from the ground, and 
 soft, white, and tender; and salted eggs, covered with a red 
 clay, and shark-fins ; and everywhere, first, midst, and last, 
 paddy, paddy, paddy ; rice, rice, rice. This is the staff on 
 which the Chinese lean for support ; and it is said that 
 a mace a day, or ten-elevenths of a cent, will support a 
 Chinese. 
 
 To each shop there is a back-room, in which the whole 
 coterie, including the principal Chinese of the establish- 
 ment, and his five, six, or seven partners, who are often all 
 
 * This word is used in the sense of medley, and is often repeated 
 in China. Does not the New England word chowder derive its ori- 
 gin from it ? 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 91 
 
 brothers, if so many happen to be in the family, gather for 
 their meals around a single table, with each one his bowl 
 and his pair of chop-sticks, with a single central bowl of 
 larger dimensions, to contain the rice for the whole party. 
 Besides the one large bowl of rice, there is generally seen 
 upon the table a variety of chow-chow dishes, in the shape 
 of pickled ginger-root, garlick, beans, cabbage, etc., from 
 each dish of which they all help themselves with their own 
 pair of chop-sticks, which lose not their place from between 
 the fourth and third fingers and thumb, during the meal, 
 and are " nimble boys" indeed, as their own language de- 
 signates them. 
 
 Simplicity is inculcated by the sages of the Chinese em- 
 pire, and their precepts are rigidly adhered to, by the absence 
 of every thing else, in the way of table-furniture, save 
 their pair of chop-sticks and bowl. 
 
 The shop-keeper, as one may suppose, has therefore but 
 few encumbrances to lay aside on the entrance of a cus- 
 tomer at the meal-time. Rather, as he has most usually, 
 on such occasions of his rice-eating, divested himself of 
 his grass-cloth frock, which at other times serves him as 
 his only upper garment, loosely hanging over his large 
 trousers, which are gathered within his white stockings 
 at the knee, he replaces this by a slight manoeuvre of di- 
 ving through it, and appears before the foreigner less wil- 
 ling to show the fine development of the muscles of his 
 arms and shoulders than he was to expose them to the 
 manes of his grandfathers as he sits disrobed at his meals. 
 
 SMALL-FOOTED CHINESE- 
 
 On our return, we passed two Chinese women attended 
 by their servants, who were walking, rather were waddling 
 through the less crowded part of Macao, on their little feet, 
 with each a staff in her hand to enable her to preserve her 
 balance. They were quite neatly dressed, a la Sinice. 
 The first emotion awakened in the feelings of a foreigner 
 on meeting one of these sufferers of China's perverted 
 tastes, is that of pity, and one almost wishes, as his next 
 thought, that he had the power of inflicting merited and 
 severe chastisement upon the parents who suffered such 
 
 35 
 
92 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 perversion of nature and taste ; for, turn the world from 
 east to west, and let other things remain as they are, and 
 it can never be shown that the principles of fitness and 
 taste are otherwise than the same. But so it is in China 
 little feet and swelled ankles, and nature tortured and dis- 
 located, are regarded as the standard of beauty. And 
 when the whole secret of the matter is known, it will not, 
 perhaps, be considered so astonishing that delicate women 
 should suffer thus to be tortured, and themselves again, as 
 mothers, repeating the torture upon their children. It is 
 said to be the very general if not the invariable custom of 
 the parents, whose right it is, in the selection of a wife for 
 their son, to choose a small-footed nymph for his first com- 
 panion, who has gone through this horrible process of dis- 
 organization. And as the first wife, according to Chinese 
 customs, is the honorable partner of the husband and has 
 under her control all his other wives, which, according to 
 the custom of the Chinese, each one may add to his house- 
 hold, it becomes a matter of great interest to the female 
 that she possess the qualities that will allow her to be eli- 
 gible to this most honorable and first situation in the house- 
 hold of her lord. Shoes variously ornamented with tinsel 
 can be purchased in the bazaar for these tiny feet, or apol- 
 ogies for what once were such, or would have been, but 
 now are but an exemplification of a small solid triangle, 
 which has the appearance of a small imperfect cone, lat- 
 erally truncated so as to give it a base, that it may rest 
 on its side. And I have in my possession three or four 
 pair of these curiosities which have actually been worn, 
 one of which is less than four inches long. It would seem 
 incredible ; and the truth is, these shoes are rather forced 
 upon the great toe and so much of the triangular foot as 
 it will cover, and then, with a high heel to effect a level, the 
 rest part of the foot and ankle is bandaged, so as by this ar- 
 rangement to represent the foot still smaller than it really is. 
 
 It would seem, if it be true as is asserted, that the Em- 
 press of China and her Tartar sisters of the imperial blood, 
 do not follow the Chinese custom of bandaging their feet : 
 and thus it is not always true that the court sets the fashion. 
 But this is in China, where every thing goes by contraries. 
 
 Our countryman, Mr. K., of the house of Oliphant, King, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 93 
 
 and Co., at Canton, is among the Americans who have 
 been caught napping at the provincial city ; and although 
 known not to have given any offence to the Chinese gov- 
 ernment by engaging in the traffic of opium, but, on the 
 contrary, exerted his influence to put an end to the trade, 
 the Chinese chose to make no open distinction between the 
 foreigners detained in the city. Mr. K. happened to be in 
 Canton at the time the embargo was laid upon their per- 
 sons, and as no intercourse is allowed between Macao and 
 Canton, of course he awaits the further action of the Chi- 
 nese government. 
 
 I called on Mrs. King this morning, who seems but lit- 
 tle apprehensive for the safety of Mr. K. ; and for herself, 
 she would apprehend but little danger to the persons of the 
 Americans, should our ship take her course without delay 
 towards the commercial mart of these celestials, and ask 
 permission of these long-braided gentlemen for the Ameri- 
 cans to take their leave, for a visit to Macao. But Mrs. 
 K. is something of a heroine, in the way of placidity of 
 nerves, though danger may be near, as she has demonstra- 
 ted to her friends in more than a single instance. She was 
 on board the Morrison with her husband, when that ship 
 was fired into by the Japanese. This seemed sport enough 
 for her, I am told, to make her wish to look at it rather 
 than to retire below to a safer part of the ship. Woman 
 is ever brave and patient, when necessity has so combined 
 circumstances as to render danger or distress an unavoid- 
 able experience. 
 
 Mrs. K. is an interesting representative from our own 
 good land. And might I describe,! would paint a fine blue 
 eye, a delicate, frank, and interesting countenance, a set of 
 brilliant teeth, and a person in a dark silk dress, which the 
 eye at once recognised, in its make, as a pattern not from 
 England but from America, and makes you think of your 
 own lady-friends, as they are remembered, on promenade, 
 up that finest street in the world Broadway in old Go- 
 tham of the new world, and the native home of Mrs. K. 
 Did I feel at liberty, I might record it more especially to 
 the praise of this lady, that the moral welfare of the native 
 females of China has elicited in their behalf her feelings 
 of interest and action. 
 
94 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 It is said that many ingenious devices are resorted to in 
 these times of non-intercourse with Canton, for conveying 
 letters between the two cities. There are Chinese who are 
 willing, for considerable sums, to run the risk of taking 
 small packages clandestinely, though it be at the endan- 
 gering of the healthful flow of the blood through the jug- 
 ular veins. Sometimes a slip of paper is made up in the 
 form of a paper cigar sometimes placed in the sole of a 
 Chinese shoe again concealed in some dish of cooked 
 rice or other eatables. 
 
 The city of Macao, in its picturesque, as seen when ap- 
 proached from the sea, has a combination of interest be- 
 yond any other city we have visited in the East. Here is 
 the castellated mount, the high and cross-crowned spire, 
 the low and truncated cupola, the green mountain-side rais- 
 ing high up its conical top in bold relief against the pure 
 sky, and the white city, laying itself out in the ravines be- 
 tween the green hills, and presenting, in its front, one line 
 of dwellings looking over a lovely bay, while the public 
 buildings covering the heights render the blended amphi- 
 theatre of house and hill-side, and turret and spire, and 
 lines of fortification, and convent, and church, and hermit- 
 age, an exhibition of the beautiful and romantic of the first 
 order in natural and artificial scenery. The city is flanked 
 by two forts on the plain and two in walled hermitages or 
 small churches on the high conical heights. The largest 
 fortification of the town, commanding the harbor and the 
 city beneath it, crowns the central mount, and is the con- 
 spicuous and high-up object that meets the eye. From 
 these forts streams the Portuguese flag; and on festal days 
 of the church, and political jubilees of the kingdom, the 
 hermitages may be seen illuminated, as bright things with 
 their rows of light on the mount ; while the guns from the 
 central fortification usually speak in eulogy of heavenly 
 saints and political sinners, on their anniversaries. But 
 all this rich scenic effect, as it falls on the vision when one 
 is for the first time approaching the city of Macao in his 
 small boat, to reach the landing place of the Praya Grande, 
 is considerably diminished when he wanders through the 
 narrow streets of the town, while nature all around him 
 retains her proportions of grandeur and outline^ of the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 95 
 
 beautiful. The Portuguese, like the Spaniards, have a 
 faculty of giving an air of antiquity to all they have to do 
 with ; while there is yet a freshness in the appearance of 
 Macao, as you contemplate it in the distance, which di- 
 minishes not the effect of the olden in the contrast, which 
 the fortifications and the public buildings give to a city, 
 which may boast of centennial years. 
 
 In the city of Macao, there are not a few objects of 
 interest to one of leisure, who has a love for marking 
 character, observing manners, and connecting and tracing 
 back present existences to their causes which lie in the 
 past. 
 
 One of the first objects of curiosity to which the stran- 
 ger is invited, is a beautiful garden now belonging to a 
 young Portuguese gentleman, containing the cave where 
 Camoens, the justly celebrated bard who sung, in heroics, 
 the deeds of the first navigators around the Cape, is said 
 to have composed many of his verses. 
 
 Having dined, by invitation, with a gentleman in the 
 neighborhood of this garden, we walked to the grounds, 
 and I was not disappointed in the beauty of the location. 
 It is a place that will not tire the lover of solitude and 
 stillness and the profound in nature ; for here is rock and 
 ravine and deep shades of tangled foliage, as well as 
 flowers and balmy air and sunshine. I have a partiality 
 for rocks the cragged peak, the deep ravine, vale and 
 hill, and dense woods ; and here are mighty granite bol- 
 ders piled on top of each other ; and the surface of the 
 garden is almost as uneven as the space of the grounds 
 could admit. And every thing is luxuriant. The rocks 
 are embowered by the evergreen foliage. The winding 
 and abrupt paths, leading up the steep aslant or down the 
 mimic declivity, are coated with a cement called chunam, 
 thus giving them a smooth flagging, which the torrents of 
 rain affect not, however in seasons of the storm or shower 
 the currents may sport down the hill-steep. By winding 
 up one of these paths, we came to an elevated spot, that 
 commanded a view of the other parts of the ground. It 
 is a small space of table-ground, and from its level surface 
 rise several granite holders with plain surfaces, two of 
 which are separated some three or four feet, and on their 
 
 35* 
 
96 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 top rests another immense block of the same imperishable 
 material, thus forming the celebrated cave of Camoens. 
 They are blocks of granite, resting upon a mightier base 
 of immoveable rock ; and around, wherever root can find 
 a place for entering its tendrils, the tree has gained its 
 hold, and the foliage of the many stately shafts wave on 
 their interlacing boughs, and give a richness of shade to 
 this seat of quiet and rural beauty. The cave is open on 
 two sides, and is some six or seven feet in width, more or 
 less, rectangular, and more open and regular than the 
 Judges' cave of western memory, but of the same order, 
 within a few miles of that most enchanting of all rural 
 cities of America, New Haven, Connecticut. Seated here, 
 the muse might well come to him, who courted her. 
 Through a vista at the left, a sheet of water is seen which 
 lays its curved edges around the neighboring islands con- 
 spicuous in the inner harbor ; and the city is shut out by 
 the walls that run above the rocks, which themselves ter- 
 race off this nook of fairy land for nature's wild roamers, 
 who give to her their warm devotions. 
 
 It is said that our ship will linger long at this port. I 
 am glad that such a retreat may be found ; and in my 
 protracted stay on shore I am sure I shall form a very 
 partial friendship for many of these old trees, and these 
 enduring rocks, and winding path and shrub and flower. 
 
 There are, at different points of the garden, several 
 beautiful views and rustic turrets of masonry, raised to 
 give the gazer a convenient view, and seats within them 
 that would accommodate a small pic-nic party at a soft 
 hour of balmy day. 
 
 John Francis Davies, Esq., a long resident in the East, 
 and one of its Oriental scholars, has written the following 
 Latin verses to the Cave of Camoens. Among the same 
 rocks and shades I read the verses and pencilled a trans- 
 lation. 
 
 IN CAVERNUM 
 
 UBI CAMOEONS OPUS EGKEGIUM CQMPOSSUISSE FERTUR. 
 
 Hie, in remotis sol ubi rupibus 
 Frondes per altas mollius incidit, 
 
 Fervebat in pulcram camoenam 
 
 Ingenium Camoentis ardens : 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 97 
 
 Signum et poetse marmore lucido 
 Spiribat olim, carminibus sacrum 
 
 Pavumque, quod vivens amavit. 
 
 Effigie decorabat antrum : 
 
 Sedjam vetustas, aut manus impia 
 
 Prostravit, eheu ! Triste silentium 
 Regnare nunc solum videtur 
 Per scopulos, verides et umbras ! 
 
 At fama nobis restat at inclitum, 
 Restat poetae nomen at ingeni 
 
 Stat carmen exemplum perenne 
 
 ^Erea nee monumenta quaerit. 
 
 Sic usque Virtus vincit, ad ultiams 
 Perducta fines temporis, exitus 
 
 Ridens sepulchrorum inanes, 
 
 Marmoriset celerem ruinam ! 
 
 Macao, MDCCCXXXI. 
 
 (TRANSLATION.) 
 TO THE CAVE, 
 
 WHERE CAMOENS IS SAID TO HAVE WRITTEN HIS CELEBRATED POEM. 
 
 Among the recesses of the rock and the shade 
 Where the sun's mild beam on the rich foliage played, 
 The genius of Camoens, in beautiful verse, 
 Poured forth its sweet strains which ages will rehearse. 
 
 And here the fair marble once breathed in its grace 
 To tell of the Poet that hallowed the place, 
 And the seat he loved most while his eye yet was bright 
 Was known by a bust in the cave's mellowed light. 
 
 But time with its years hath betrayed the fair trust, 
 And crumbled the rich marble, alas ! to its dust, 
 And stillness now reigns profound as the grave 
 Through the rocks and the shades of Camoen's cave. 
 
 But the fame of the Poet in brightness is streaming, 
 And his name on the page of glory is gleaming, 
 While his works as the models of genius yet live 
 And seek not from marble its praises to give. 
 
 Thus genius lives ever through time's crumbling power, 
 Till ages shall cease to chronicle their hour, 
 And spurns the proud marble its praises to boast, 
 And, deathless, yet triumphs, when monuments are lost. 
 
98 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The English burial-place is in the immediate neigh- 
 borhood of the garden, through which we promenaded, 
 and in which we would willingly have longer lingered ; 
 but we left this scene of loveliness and flowers and life, for 
 one of yet deeper stillness, soft beauty, and death. It is 
 a spot like most of the burial-places I have seen in the 
 East, possessing a rural beauty, and still-calm and green 
 richness and softness, which makes you feel that if you 
 were to die abroad you would choose to be placed in such 
 a spot. The grounds are small, a rectangular plot of half 
 an acre, with trees studding the end and one side of it, 
 and a carpet of green grass overlaying the whole area. 
 Here the English residents and Protestant foreigners are 
 interred when they die at Macao. There was an interest 
 associated with this ground to me independent of its rural 
 beauty, when considered as occupying a place within the 
 bounds of a circumscribed city. There were a few Amer- 
 icans reposing in their last and long sleep there ; and one, 
 though it was not my fortune to have been intimately ac- 
 quainted with her, others of my friends were, and I had 
 learned from them to esteem the sweet qualities of her 
 amiable character. I saw her once just previous to her 
 leaving America for Canton, with her guardian, in hopes 
 that the voyage would contribute to her restoration to 
 health. It was otherwise ; and now she sleeps beneath 
 the green sod and green boughs in a tropical clime ; and 
 her tombstone bears the following inscription, over which 
 the waving foliage fades not, as if to emblem forth the 
 ever youthful spirit of her who has gone, with bright and 
 happy hopes of fadeless joys and a bright immortality. 
 
 " In memory of Elizabeth McDougal Gillespie. Born 
 at New- York, June 6, A. D. 1814. Died at Macao, 
 Dec. 6, A. D. 1837. 
 
 " Erected by an affectionate Guardian over the grave 
 of a beloved ward." 
 
 She sleeps but not beneath the deep 
 That mourns the sea-dirge for its dead, 
 
 While low among the tides they sweep 
 Or rock upon their coral bed. 
 
 She sleeps but not beneath the ground 
 Where kindred dead lie near and deep, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 99 
 
 And friends oft gather at the mound 
 To think, and love, and newly weep. 
 
 She sleeps a gem from western land, 
 
 That shone as ray of diamond light ; 
 But soon was lost on foreign strand, 
 
 A setting star in earliest night. 
 
 She sleeps where strangers stop to trace 
 
 The story of the early dead ; 
 And one far- voyager seeks her place 
 
 His tribute tear o'er worth to shed. 
 
 There are two other monuments of the same style as 
 the one that covers the remains of Miss G., constituting, 
 with hers and one other, a row by themselves. The two 
 alluded to, and adjacent to hers, bear the following in- 
 scriptions : 
 
 " The remains of EDMOND ROBERTS, Esq., Special Di- 
 plomatic Agent of the U. S. to several Asiatic Courts, 
 who died at Macao, June 12, 1836, M. 50. 
 
 " He devised and executed to their end, under instruc- 
 tions from his Government, Treaties of Amity and Com- 
 merce between the U. S. and the Courts of Muscat and 
 Siam." 
 
 " The remains of ARCHIBALD S. CAMPBELL, Esq, who 
 died at Macao, in command of the U. S. schooner Enter- 
 prise, June 3, 1836, M. 46. 
 
 "Erected to the memory of Lieutenant Commander 
 A. S. C., by the officers of the U. S. ship Peacock and 
 schooner Enterprise, 1836." 
 
 Arid here, unless this spot for the sleep of the dead 
 shall prove unlike others which have raised their voice for 
 their complement of those we are to leave on foreign shores 
 in our circuit of the globe, a number of American seamen 
 from our ship will form their death-row before we shall 
 have left the China seas. 
 
 Commodore Read has taken up his residence on the 
 Praya Grande ; and it is pretty certain that the Columbia 
 will remain at her present anchorage fora month and more. 
 If the present state of affairs continues, she will not leave 
 these seas in twice that time. 
 
 I have become very pleasantly located in the family of 
 the Rev. Mr. Shuck, whose residence is situated in one of 
 
100 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 
 
 the most beautiful parts of the town, and directly in the 
 neighborhood of the romantic garden already partially 
 described, and of the English burial-ground, two of the 
 sweetest rural spots in the city. The large building occu- 
 pies one side of a rhornboidal area, the other three sides 
 being lined by the church of St. Antonio, the gate of St. 
 Antonio, the monastery or residence of a number of Cath- 
 olic priests, together with the entrance to the English bu- 
 rial place. The remaining, or fourth side, is fronted by the 
 large buildings of the elder and younger Marquise, two 
 Portuguese gentlemen, who are the proprietors of the beau- 
 tiful grounds containing the cave of Camoens. 
 
 Through the gate of St. Antonio most of the Chinese 
 funeral processions pass for the interment of the bodies 
 among the hills that rise so majestically without the walls 
 of the city, and between two of which, on the northwest- 
 ern part of the city, lies the Campo, stretching through the 
 deep defile, and forming the favorite walk for the foreign- 
 ers, more particularly when the sun has fallen so that the 
 rays are cut off by the high range of the hills on either 
 side of the ravine. Here, at an hour by sunset, you may 
 see the little groups of the English and Americans and the 
 Portuguese, strolling, (though the Praya Grande appears to 
 be the more favorite resort of the Portuguese,) or in single 
 couples they dot the different paths as so many specks in 
 relief with the high hills that surround them, or, perhaps, 
 up one of which they may be winding, lady and gentle- 
 man alike having deposited their hats at their homes, 
 as useless encumbrances in this climate, at this balmy 
 hour, but as a substitute, the one with a fan, the other with 
 his staff in hand. And here one is almost certain of meet- 
 ing one's friend, if he will stroll to the Campo at the sun- 
 set hour. It is a welcome breathing spot, after the heat 
 of the day, and the influence of the pure air, and the cool 
 breeze, and the soft sky, give a sweeter expression to the 
 smile of one's friend, and additional ingenuousness to the 
 cordial welcome at the meeting. 
 
 I took the circuit of the mount, on the high top of which 
 is theinwalled and picturesque Hermitage of Guia. The 
 mount separates the Campo from the sea, and the path of 
 the Campo, winding through the ravine, turns to the right 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 101 
 
 and reaches the beach, from which you have a view of the 
 far-out shipping that lie at their moorings in the Roads. 
 From this point, there is a path along the mountain-side by 
 which one may return rather than by the path of the Cam- 
 po, if one wishes a rougher walk as a variety and for 
 greater exercise. And this path, winding around this 
 conical hill, and passing between a notch of the mountain, 
 again descends the declivity to the path of the Campo. It 
 was already near sundown when we reached this notch in 
 the mountain which divides the same into two conical hills ; 
 and the pass lies at a near point immediately beneath the 
 little church or hermitage above. It was a soft hour as we 
 neared the level of the Campo, and others were enjoying 
 it as they were promenading the rural path, or reclining 
 upon the green area that spreads itself in the ravine. The 
 bell of the hermitage on the mount now struck its farewell 
 to the sun, seen at this moment from its wall to give back 
 its last ray from its upper edge. Two young priests were 
 lounging in their long black gowns and triangular hats on 
 the green sward near us. They rose at the stroke of the 
 sundown bell of the hermitage, both reverently uncovered, 
 crossed themselves, and again threw themselves upon the 
 green turf. 
 
 The display of radiants on the deep-blue sky at this sun- 
 set hour was peculiar. I have never marked a similar ex- 
 hibition in other than the climate of these seas, and at this 
 place I have marked it with interest as a peculiar and here 
 not unfrequent beauty. A point of the west sends forth 
 its streams of the most delicate pink, and saffron, and car- 
 mine, radiant from a common centre, as they lay their di- 
 vergent beams on the loveliest and softest sky-blue that ever 
 formed a cerulean field for colors to contrast themselves 
 upon. These elongated and rectilinear beams to-night 
 diverged from each other as they rose from their lowest 
 common point in the horizon, till their rising and evanescent 
 layers, spreading and blending, formed a soft and commin- 
 gled light of all their colors, nearly in the zenith of the 
 beholder. Such was the soft display of nature this even- 
 ing as we passed several of our friends, while we were 
 leaving the Campo for a cup of tea which was awaiting 
 our return. And the tea-table we found set on the top of 
 
102 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a spacious terrace, with a bright moon and bright stars 
 looking down from their pure halls above us, as we gath- 
 ered to our seats. It was an Oriental scene, enjoyed in the 
 improved way and conveniences of American arrange- 
 ment. The stars never scintillated more beautifully than 
 to-night. And we marked as we gazed at the southern 
 cross, and saw by a simple change the polar star in the 
 opposite direction, that, what is sometimes affirmed is not 
 true, like many other confidently asserted things, namely, 
 that there is no single point of the globe from which this 
 constellation of the southern cross and the north star may, 
 each at the same moment, be seen. And lyra, that blue 
 twinkling brilliant, high up above us, in a few hours more 
 will hang perpendicularly over our western homes. We 
 would be glad to give it a message. But it may not be 
 it may not be ; yet I know not but there are eyes there 
 that will read it and think of those half a world's circum- 
 ference distant from them. 
 
 Last evening I visited at Mr. G.'s. Found him and his 
 lady promenading on the open terraces of the garden, a 
 spacious area of ground, overlooking most of the south west- 
 ern part of the city, and commanding a full view of the 
 inner harbor, the green and adjacent isles, and the high 
 grounds on the south of the town. It is an elevated and 
 charming promenade, this terrace of the garden ; and the 
 establishment itself is one of the most imposing of the city. 
 The terraces rise one above another ; and the high walls, 
 to form the level of what may be deemed hanging gar- 
 dens, are reached by granite steps the whole presenting 
 a position admirable for defence in a feudal age or times of 
 revolution. The spacious ruins around, of olden associa- 
 tions, where the thick walls and private and secret passa- 
 ges of monastery and fortification are seen, and the crum- 
 bled buildings of the Jesuits, once splendid and massive, 
 stood, now afford abundant material for romance. The 
 ruins of St. Paul's are still standing, and its front forms one 
 of the most conspicuous specimens of architectural interest 
 to be found in the city. The church was founded by the 
 Jesuits ; and the inscription on the corner-stone of the re- 
 maining walls carries back the erection of the building to 
 1662. "Virgini magnae matri, ci vitas macaensis lubens, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 103 
 
 Pasuit. An. 1662." This venerable structure was con- 
 sumed by fire in 1834. The front still stands, with its 
 chiselled decorations of saints who have gone through the 
 literal ordeal of fire with but partial blackening ; and the 
 walls being repaired, the whole has been turned into a 
 very respectable and very neat cemetery. Niches rise 
 one above the other, occupying the inner sides of the walls 
 as vaults. A terrace extends quite around the inner side 
 of the building, supported by the walls and the columns 
 within. At the inner end of the cemetery is a small chapel, 
 containing an altar, with an iron grating in front, through 
 which the eye contemplates a delineation of purgatory on 
 the inner wall, representing a number of spirits in different 
 attitudes escaping from the purifying flames some half- 
 way relieved, another with the whole body escaped with 
 the exception of a single foot ; and another with an angel's 
 hand triumphantly bearing him above ; while still other 
 sister spirits are extending their aid to the sufferers below, 
 and almost but not quite reach their elevated and extended 
 hands. Within the adjacent grounds, so late as the pres- 
 ent year, I am informed that the governor has caused exca- 
 vations to be made, in consequence of a traditional impres- 
 sion, which it is supposed has been handed down on very 
 good authority, that the Jesuits buried large treasures at the 
 time of their downfall and the sequestering of their estates. 
 The earth, yet retaining its freshness of excavation, is seen 
 near the walls of this once magnificent building ; but what 
 has been done only shows that enterprise was wanting to 
 develop the money even if the treasure is there, beyond 
 the labor that has already been expended. A private band 
 of villagers in our own land, have dug deeper and wider 
 for the deposited ingots of Captain Kyd. 
 
 We retired from the terraces of the garden to the house 
 at the dusk of twilight, when tea was served. One of the 
 nieces of Mrs. G. came in from her evening walk. Carna- 
 tion was glowing on her cheeks in deepness, and so blend- 
 ing with the lily of her complexion, that it made her an 
 object of interest as a fine specimen of that Anglo-German 
 style of face, so unlike the dark brunettes, and yet darker- 
 shaded faces, on which our eyes have so long been linger- 
 ing. She gave us music in the evening. As she sat at the 
 
 36 
 
104 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 piano-forte, her wide brow of marble and luxuriant ring- 
 lets flowing in negligence and abundance on a neck of 
 Parian, and the large deep-blue eye, and lip that the free 
 and young blood dyed in coral, made her appear like a fine 
 specimen of a German princess, worthy of the throne of 
 England. 
 
 "Americans always do things so finely," said Mr. G., 
 when alluding to some particulars connected with the navy. 
 Americans do things very ungracefully, often, I thought, 
 when they are unwilling to reciprocate a compliment in 
 praise of what is really meritorious in England, or would 
 wish to find fault with that which is uncensurable. 
 
 With the symphony of " I call on the spirits of the past" 
 full in my memory, I left the little coterie, with a polite 
 invitation to attend a musical party the succeeding evening, 
 to which invitations to some others should be extended, 
 they said, particularly on my account, presuming, with 
 accuracy, on my love of music. 
 
 The authorities at Canton seem to be slackening their 
 surveillance a little, or, at least, are behaving a little more 
 becomingly, as gentlemen, and have permitted our letters 
 to come down from Canton. It is as I thought it would 
 be with my kind friends at home ; and a real U. S. mail 
 has been awaiting me. It was my good fortune to receive 
 between forty and fifty letters, and papers piled like Alps 
 o'er Alps, in the number of packages my friends were so 
 thoughtful as to send me ; and all good news. I was 
 thankful ; and spent the night in wakeful communion with 
 my friends, as I read through their many epistles. I am 
 sure if those at home could but partially realize the exult- 
 ation which our officers manifest, and the happiness they 
 experience on the reception of letters when abroad, they 
 would be considerate in securing every opportunity in for- 
 warding letters to meet them. 
 
 The situation of my own friends at New- York has 
 enabled them to avail themselves of many opportunities 
 of forwarding letters. But other officers of the ship have 
 found the advantage of the existence of the Naval Lyceum 
 at Brooklyn Navy-Yard, a most worthy institution, which 
 will be justly appreciated, and valuable as it advances in 
 its action and continuance. Persons from any part of the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 105 
 
 Union, sending letters to their friends in the Navy who 
 are abroad, will have them particularly looked after and 
 forwarded by the first opportunity, if sent to the Naval 
 Lyceum. The information possessed of the destination 
 of foreign squadrons, where the ships are expected to 
 touch, and what vessels are sailing from the port of New- 
 York, or other ports of the United States for those places, 
 gives the officer who is in particular charge of the duty 
 of forwarding letters sent to the Lyceum, peculiar fa- 
 cilities for despatching them to foreign ports. Of course, 
 these letters, if sent by the mail, to the care of the Ly- 
 ceum at the Navy- Yard, Brooklyn, should be post-paid : 
 the institution gratuitously forwarding these letters, should 
 not be burdened with the postage in the United States. 
 
 SERVICE IN THE ENGLISH CHAPEL. 
 
 Yesterday, it being Sunday, I preached in the English 
 chapel. The Rev. Mr. Vachel, chaplain to the queen's 
 commission here, is now absent, on account of his health, 
 on a visit or permanent return to England. The chapel 
 is quite neatly fitted up, and sufficiently large for the 
 foreign community at Macao. The number of the foreign- 
 ers here is larger at this time than usual, in consequence 
 of the difficulties at Canton, and expected daily to be con- 
 siderably increased by the arrival of all the English mer- 
 chants and the government officers, with the Americans, 
 who it is said will leave the city when Captain Elliot, the 
 English superintendent of trade, shall retire from the city 
 to Macao. 
 
 In the services of the chapel I read the prayers, and I 
 am sure I very sincerely offered the petition for her Bri- 
 tannic Majesty, Victoria, Britain's most gracious queen 
 and governor. Whenever I had previously preached in 
 the English chapels, the chaplain, being present, has read 
 the service. Surely there are interests enough that are 
 mutual in the common welfare of England and America, 
 not only to make the subjects of the one and the citizens 
 of the other sincerely to wish the happiness of the rulers 
 of both nations, but also devoutly to pray that they may 
 alike be guided so as to preserve the harmony and the 
 
106 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 prosperity of each government. The interests of the one, 
 when viewed in connection with those general and just 
 principles of political economy which are becoming more 
 universally understood, and aggrandizing the age, cannot 
 be otherwise than the ultimate interests of the other. 
 The politician, who legislates merely or principally for 
 some immediate advantage of his own times, is unworthy 
 a seat in the councils of his country. The greatest ulti- 
 mate good of the nation, and of the world, if you add 
 the character of the Christian to the politician, is the 
 inquiry that should guide the enlightened and liberal 
 mind. Washington acted with such a forecast ; and 
 Hamilton, by wHom the country was retrieved from debt 
 and placed on her highway to national respect and prow- 
 ess. And England has many a bright name to class 
 among the philanthropic legislators of the nineteenth cen- 
 tury. 
 
 In the evening I heard the Rev. Mr. Shuck preach at 
 the house occupied by the Rev. Mr. Browne, where, on 
 Sunday evenings, it is usual for the American missionaries 
 at this place to have service, and, in turn, to officiate. 
 The Rev. Mr. Abeel, and Rev. Mr. Bridgman and Dr. 
 Parker are at Canton. The two former, at least, are ex- 
 pected to return to Macao, as soon as the foreign com- 
 munity leave Canton. Mr. Williams, connected with the 
 printing establishment of the mission here, (a young gen- 
 tleman of worth,) I have also met. The Rev. Mr. Ro- 
 berts, and Mr. Young, Baptist licenciate from Batavia, are 
 also resident at Macao. Mrs. Browne and Mrs. Shuck 
 are the only missionary ladies from America at Macao. 
 
 Mr. King having reached Macao in the morning, I was 
 introduced to him after the services this evening; and 
 having learned of our mutual acquaintances, I was glad 
 to meet him. 
 
 He is a young gentleman of intelligence and liberal 
 principles ; and, with the house to which he is attached, 
 has taken a decided stand against the trafficking in opium. 
 His estimate of the Chinese character is higher than others 
 rate it in the scale of morality and intellect and enterprise. 
 It is natural that his course, with so many opposing inter- 
 ests in commerce, against which, with great independence, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 107 
 
 the house of Oliphant, King, and Company seem to have 
 acted, should have awakened some jealousies. But the 
 result of the measures of the Chinese government will 
 place the cause which Mr. K. has advocated triumphant 
 in the end, as all liberal-minded men, wherever they may 
 think their interests lie, must acknowledge to be the de- 
 sirable course of events, in -connection with the opium 
 trade, which has impoverished thousands, and threatened 
 the destruction of a nation, for the private emolument of 
 a few individuals and corporations. 
 
 I have read the views of Mr. K. in connection with 
 the establishment of a consulate general at Macao with 
 vice consulates for other positions corresponding with the 
 different European powers holding settlements in the East. 
 For example, a consul for the Spanish possessions should 
 be located at Manilla ; one for the Dutch possessions at 
 Batavia ; another at Singapore ; and another at Siam. 
 The consuls at these stations severally to report to the 
 consul-general at Macao, who also should be the consul 
 to the Chinese empire, and make reports of the different 
 consulates to the general government. And that this 
 general establishment for the East may be honorable to 
 the government of the U. S. and efficient in promoting 
 and protecting its interests of commerce and trade, the 
 consuls should be officers with fixed salaries, sufficient to 
 raise them above the necessities of their engaging in trade. 
 
 No one familiar with the East and the interests of 
 American commerce in these seas but will at once see 
 the utility of such an establishment, and its practicability. 
 Its expense, even with a liberal allowance to the consuls, 
 would be a saving to the government, and give it a credit 
 abroad which would be honorable to that administration 
 which shall carry such a measure into execution. 
 
 I met the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Browne, Monday evening, 
 at Mr. King's. It was a very agreeable tete-a-tete to re- 
 view home scenes with Mrs. B. Two of her brothers 
 were university acquaintances of myself, and she left the 
 United States after the sailing of our ships. We wan- 
 dered together, in imagination and review, through many 
 a town and village, and rested a good long while in that 
 exquisite specimen of rus in urbe, or rather, urbs in rure, 
 
 36* 
 
108 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 which makes the elm-embowered city of NEW HAVEN 
 without a rival, for its rural pleasantness and beauty. 
 Who that has ever moved at moonlight among its groves 
 who that, at the evening hour as the sunset sent athwart 
 the city its level beams flooding the elm-tops of the city 
 in layers of gold, has threaded its streets thus arched with 
 domes of golden foliage, supported by Corinthian shafts of 
 nature though ranged in Gothic arch who that has there 
 watched the sunset scenes, rivalled nowhere else in the 
 world, so far as I have seen them who that has mingled 
 in its circles of cultivated and refined and modest minds, 
 chastened by their high appreciation of literature, morality, 
 and religion, but will pause enchanted at the mention of 
 thy name, beautiful, blest, beloved NEW HAVEN ? 
 
 I've roamed among the flowery isles afar, 
 
 And strolled, at night, 'neath west and eastern star ; 
 
 And I have loved the moon-lit scene in grove, 
 
 On lake, and where the throngs of cities move ; 
 
 And where the streams of lighted avenue 
 
 Their glare on palms and cloves and mangoes threw ; 
 
 And where the fair ones of a gentler clime 
 
 Unveiled, when bells of latest vespers chime, 
 
 Are seen to tread upon their verdant walk 
 
 To court the breeze and sport the evening talk : 
 
 But not within the range of this wide world, 
 
 (Roamed I the regions of the New or Old,) 
 
 Have I such moon-lit glory elsewhere known 
 
 As I have seen around those temples thrown, 
 
 Where Art and Nature join to render blest 
 
 This loved, THIS RURAL CITY OF THE WEST. 
 
 I have visited with interest in the family of Mr. Squire 
 and lady, from Plymouth, England. Mr. S. is some way 
 connected with the English society for the spread of the 
 gospel, and is in the East to convey home to the society 
 the information it may need to enable it judiciously to 
 make its selections for the stations of its laborers. 
 
 Mrs. S. is the daughter of the late George Harvey, of 
 literary titles and of literary fame. He is the writer of 
 several articles published in the Encyclopaedia Metropoli 
 tana, a work of great merit I understand, and extent, but 
 whether yet completed I am not informed. It was a mat- 
 ter of gratification to look over the volumes possessed by 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 109 
 
 Mrs. S., containing very beautiful specimens of plates il- 
 lustrating the articles on meteorology, many of them done 
 from sketches by her own pencil. And then, it was 
 amusing to hear some playful anecdote associated with 
 the drawing of that tree, which is a portrait that notch 
 in the hill that mystic fold in the sheet of that cloud 
 that globule of rain that has descended from the nimbus 
 or the cumulus that old-fashioned ship, that was standing 
 in by the breakwater ; and that unique Spanish craft which 
 had somehow wandered to the neighborhood ; and then 
 as another leaf was turned, to mark the angles in the flake 
 of snow or the mosaic of the hoar-frost, taken from the 
 window pane of the parlor, or the antique glass of that 
 old church, about which many a ghost story has been told. 
 How estimable, we justly think, is that family, where 
 science, and taste, and affection prevail ! No ennui, list- 
 lessness, and insipidity, hath to do in such a circle. In the 
 education of his several daughters, the father of Mrs. S. 
 directed that one should pay her attention particularly to 
 music, another to drawing, another to painting, thus ren- 
 dering each skilful in her own department, and introdu- 
 cing into the family a variety of accomplishments, that 
 would not tire, and by consequence afford the greater 
 happiness to the whole circle. 
 
 In the little incidents of pleasure and disappointments 
 which Mrs. S. narrated to me as associated with these 
 beautiful plates, the scenes of which were all taken from 
 the neighborhood of her home, and sketched at her fa- 
 ther's, I thought how much was lost as we gaze on the 
 beautiful in art, in the absence of the story of its progress, 
 and its midst, and its ending. Often how often ! could 
 we learn the whole of the poor artist's story as he spent 
 his hours over the print we admire, would the tears flood 
 our own eyes. And again, in tracing the history of other 
 pieces, which have been the result of indulging a taste 
 and accomplishment possessed, and contributing pleasure 
 from its conception to its perfection, how would our own 
 feelings often kindle, could we know of some of the inci- 
 dents and feelings that attended the artist ; and luxuriate, 
 as we traced the combinations of real life with the scenes 
 of the fictitious ! We know that we are delighted with 
 
110 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the beautiful, and appreciate with most acceptable feelings 
 the effect of the combinations in a perfect painting. But 
 how those feelings would be augmented, did we know how 
 many hearts, and why they gushed amid those scenes de- 
 scribed or that beat with kindred feelings of love and 
 sentiment with our own when gazing on the same view 
 or sighed or smiled over the same prospect. Surely do I 
 think, if this description meets the eye of this amiable lady, 
 she will remember the hour so agreeable to myself, in 
 which she narrated the little domestic incidents connected 
 with the sketches of her porte-feuille, and the soft and 
 beautiful prints of the Encyclopedia. 
 After prayers I took my leave. 
 
 WOMAN. 
 
 Conversation is the source of the greatest happiness of 
 a social and rational being. And there can be few plea- 
 sures more unalloyed than man derives from the conver- 
 sation of an intelligent woman. And there is nothing that 
 sooner disgusts the virtuous mind than to listen to a cant 
 that often prevails among some circles of the other sex, to 
 the disparagement of the female character. Where I hear 
 it, I stay not to argue as to the elements of the character 
 of the coterie that will allow it, or the qualities of that 
 heart that can be pleased with the trifling and dispara- 
 ging remark, as associated with the female sex, to the 
 wreathing of the lip with a smile of satisfaction. It is to 
 woman, society owes its highest refinements and softest 
 civilities. The virtuous, and honorable, and high-minded 
 bearing of every community, is measured by the tone of 
 sentiment with which woman is regarded. The chivalric 
 age, when man would peril life for woman as freely as 
 courses the blood in his veins, and when her defence was 
 a profession, was a virtuous age. And the nations of the 
 world are characterized for their civilization, general in- 
 telligence, delicacy of feeling, liberty, and perhaps prowess, 
 in proportion as they are observed to treat the female sex 
 with deference, hold their personal rights in consideration, 
 and accord to them freedom in action, and unrestrained 
 intercourse in social life. And there is nothing that speaks 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORL^. Ill 
 
 more in compliment of the American people, and assuredly 
 declares their advance in the dignity and moral worth of 
 a mighty and a Christian nation, than the deferential re- 
 spect with which they regard the female sex. And he 
 has been but a slight observer of mankind who does not 
 consider them, though the weaker, the better half of the 
 world, in all that is kind, benevolent, refined, and holy. 
 
 It is a beautiful paragraph in the works of Ledyard, the 
 indefatigable, and, to fame, immortal traveller, in which, 
 he speaks of woman, as he has seen her in all quarters of 
 the globe. It makes one love his memory, saying every 
 thing as it does for the excellency of his heart ; and to the 
 critic in literature, presents a specimen of almost the per- 
 fect in style. He says : 
 
 " I have observed, among all nations, that the women 
 ornament themselves more than the men ; that wherever 
 found, they are the same kind, civil, obliging, humane, ten- 
 der beings ; that they are ever inclined to be gay and 
 cheerful, timorous and modest. They do not hesitate, like 
 men, to perform a hospitable or generous action ; not 
 haughty, nor arrogant, nor superstitious ; industrious, eco- 
 nomical, ingenuous ; more liable in general to err than man, 
 but in general also more virtuous and performing more 
 good actions than he. I never addressed myself in the 
 language of decency and friendship to woman, whether 
 civilized or savage, without receiving a decent and friend- 
 ly answer ; with men it has often been otherwise. 
 
 " In walking over the barren plains of inhospitable Den- 
 mark, through honest Sweden, frozen Lapland, rude and 
 churlish Finland, unprincipled Russia, and the wide-spread 
 regions of the wandering Tartar, if hungry, dry, cold, wet 
 or sick, woman has ever been friendly to me, and uniform- 
 ly so ; and to add to this virtue, so worthy of the appella- 
 tion of benevolence, these actions have been performed in 
 so free, and so kind a manner, that, if I was dry I drank 
 the sweet draught, and if hungry, ate the sweet morsel 
 with a double relish." 
 
 Sunday, May 26th, I again preached in the English 
 chapel, and administered the communion. As most of the 
 foreigners had reached Macao from Canton during the 
 week, the house was well filled, and the number of persons 
 
112 A VOYAGE AROtT THE WORLD. 
 
 who communed was greater than I had anticipated. The 
 communion, in the absence of the chaplain, not having 
 been administered for some time, the services seemed to 
 gain additional interest to those who were present. And 
 it certainly was great satisfaction to me to unite with my 
 English friends of the same creed, in the services common 
 to the American and the English mother church. The 
 prayers of the morning service were read by Mr. Stanton, 
 a student of Cambridge, who is now preparing for orders, 
 and who, in the absence of the chaplain, usually reads a 
 sermon to the congregation on the Sabbath. 
 
 In the afternoon of the same day I attended a Bible 
 class at Mr. Squire's, where 1 met the Rev. Messrs. Bridg- 
 man and Abeel, who, having reached Macao Saturday 
 night, were at the services at the English chapel in the 
 morning, together with the other American missionaries, 
 resident here. At the Bible class were also the Rev. Mr. 
 Brown and lady, Mr. Williams and Mr. Stanton. Mr. Mor- 
 rison, son of the late Doctor Morrison, and first interpreter 
 to her Majesty's commission, came in, having arrived from 
 Canton, with Captain Elliot and others, during the morning. 
 
 After tea, I accompanied Mr. Squire to the missionaries' 
 services of the evening at Mr. Browne's, where a number 
 of the residents and all the missionaries usually attend, on 
 Sunday evening. I heard the Rev. Mr. Browne, and was 
 glad to listen to an exposition of the moral government of 
 God, that relieves his benevolence and mercy from charges 
 sometimes brought against it, by showing that the present 
 system of God's government is the best possible to him as a 
 Ruler over free moral beings, and the best conceivable, if 
 these free moral beings had acted their part, as their inte- 
 rests and their obligations of duty suggested. 
 
 I called at Captain Elliot's on Monday morning, Com- 
 modore Read and Captain Wyman making a call at the 
 same hour. 
 
 CAPTAIN ELLIOT AND CHINESE AFFAIRS. 
 
 Captain Elliot is the British superintendent of trade 
 here, empowered by her Majesty's government with cer- 
 tain authority, the extent of which, in the secrecy with 
 which he keeps his instructions, it is impossible to know : 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 113 
 
 but, as occasion requires, the decision with which he acts, 
 and the responsibility he assumes, declare that his powers 
 are equal to any exigency .which has yet occurred. And 
 he affirms that his instructions are full ; and when occasion 
 requires it they shall be known. He has assumed the re- 
 sponsibility of requiring from the English captains the 
 delivery of opium, to the amount of some millions of dol- 
 lars in value, for which the English government becomes 
 the debtor ; and through him, as its agent, it is surrendered 
 to the Chinese authorities, according to the demand of 
 the Chinese government, as the condition of the liberation 
 of the foreigners held imprisoned at Canton. The amount 
 has now been surrendered, and the foreigners are mostly 
 in Macao beyond the further power of the Chinese, while 
 the trade is again opened, on certain conditions, into which 
 the captains of the ships are to enter. The English will 
 not accept these conditions. The Americans may play 
 their part differently, as their present interests lead them 
 to secure their home cargoes. 
 
 A crisis evidently has come ; and it will depend upon 
 the will of the English government, in a good degree, as 
 to what that crisis shall develop. If the ministry now in 
 power continue to hold their places, it is presumed that 
 Captain Elliot will be sustained in the course he has pur- 
 sued ; and that England will demand the restitution of an 
 equivalent for the opium delivered, with expenses and in- 
 juries received by the detention of the English ships, and 
 every other real or supposed damage received. And the 
 Chinese government refusing to liquidate the amount, will 
 thus afford to the English a sufficient pretext, real or ima- 
 ginary, for the declaration of war, the conquest of the 
 island of Formosa or some other in the neighborhood of 
 Furkeen, the tea province, and reprisals be made on the 
 commerce of the Chinese coast. The ultimate end of all 
 measures to be, the securing a foothold in the Chinese em- 
 pire, and to effect a treaty with its government. 
 
 But all this is yet to be developed. The progress of 
 the drama, in its first act and several scenes, is long, even 
 so far only as it has already advanced, and would occupy 
 some pages to be repeated here, in the quotations of docu- 
 ments which have passed between the Chinese commis- 
 sioner and Captain Elliot on the part of the British gov- 
 
114 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ernmont, and others, who, at Canton, represent other for- 
 eign powers. So far, however, as the subject is connect- 
 ed with our detention here, and the presentation of the 
 points in agitation and dispute between the Chinese and 
 the foreigners are concerned, I shall endeavor to give a 
 statement and documents, briefly as possible, further on, 
 for the full understanding of the merits and the difficulties 
 of the circumstances, in which the parties are placed in 
 relation to each other.* 
 
 Captain Elliot is a gentleman of great ingenuousness of 
 manners. Too frank, some would think him, for a diplo- 
 mat. But there is a deeper management, sometimes, in 
 frankness, than is found in guarded reserve or mysticism ; 
 and a frank communication of what it is of no consequence 
 should lie concealed, may often form a veil for what it is 
 important should be preserved sub umbra. And I divine 
 that Captain E. understands this, while it is in his nature 
 to be open in his communications, and undisguised in his 
 actions. His ingenuous manner almost declares his pro- 
 fession, (and I should add, en passant, that he holds a post- 
 captain's commission in her Majesty's navy,) and he has 
 possessed himself of enough of all the languages of the 
 East, and the Portuguese, with a knowledge of the French, 
 to enable him sometimes to be amusing in the way of 
 narrative, and always to round an anecdote successfully. 
 Captain Elliot has done credit to himself in the difficult 
 circumstances in which he has been placed ; and his pass- 
 ing the Bogue on his hearing of the early measures at 
 Canton, in the endeavor of the mandarins to secure the 
 person of Mr. Dent ; his passing the flotilla of boats which 
 endeavored to prevent his landing by forming a barrier 
 to keep his small boat from approaching the landing-place 
 at Canton, is spoken of as a gallant act. Competent and 
 confident in his measures, and acquainted with the genius 
 of the people and bearing of the controversy, and the 
 
 * A statement, including public documents, and letters which 
 passed between our Consul at Canton, and Commodore Read, was 
 prepared by the author for the first edition of this work, but its extent 
 precluded the possibility of its insertion ; and the proposed size of 
 these volumes still prohibits any further details, than, incidentally, 
 have been given. 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 115 
 
 wishes of his government, he will succeed in carrying his 
 own plans through, if he gains, as he expects, the appro- 
 bation and further support of the ministry at home. 
 
 He brought with him from Canton a magnificent paint- 
 ing of George the Fourth, which has occupied the hall 
 in the British factory there. Its size, however, occupying 
 its present position, although a spacious room, reminded 
 me of the family picture of the Vicar of Wakefield, which 
 was found, after it had been finished, to be too large in 
 its proportions to occupy a perpendicular position in the 
 house. It is done by Laurence, and is deemed a master- 
 piece. I was less interested in it than I might other- 
 wise have been, had not Mrs. Elliot recalled me to view 
 a beautiful print of her Gracious Majesty, Queen Victoria, 
 whom Mrs. E. appears to admire with much enthusiasm. 
 Certain it is that Mrs. E. herself is a queen in her way 
 possessing great interest as a lady of agreeable and easy 
 manners, clever, accomplished, quick at repartee, and with 
 a row of teeth that pearls may not equal. 
 
 On the succeeding Wednesday I dined with Captain 
 Elliot, it being the day that suited the engagements of 
 Commodore Read. All the gentlemen of the Queen's 
 commission were present Messrs. Johnson, Emsly, Mor- 
 rison, some of the India service, and several gentlemen of 
 the large mercantile houses, Mr. Jardin and others, and 
 our worthy consul, Mr. Snow. 
 
 I took my leave as Mrs. E. retired from the table, for 
 an engagement I had in the evening. 
 
 Among other places I had visited during the week is 
 Mr. Beal's garden, possessing some attractions in its loca- 
 lities and arrangements and plants, but principally inter- 
 esting to the visiter on account of its magnificent aviary, 
 which contains a number of birds of the richest plumage 
 and most gorgeous colors, characteristic of the feathery 
 tribe of the tropics. 
 
 THE BIRD OF PARADISE. 
 
 The bird of Paradise that fairy creature, which we 
 have almost thought to be a thing of fable rather than of 
 real existence is there, now in his perfection of plumage 
 
 37 
 
116 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and coloring. The Mohammedan places the souls of the 
 blessed, in their highest heaven, in the crops of green 
 pigeons. Had the bird of Paradise ever crossed the vision 
 of Mohammed, the green-plumage colomba would never 
 have shared the honor of bearing in its flight the souls of 
 good Mussulmans. I seem to see that beautiful creature, 
 again as my pen would describe it, hopping from perch 
 to perch, changing its position at every note it uttered, as 
 if, conscious of the perfection of its beauty, it would show 
 every feather of its long, and soft, and downy, and richest- 
 dyed plumage, and blue beak, and yellow eye, and ringed 
 and speckled claws. There have been many descriptions 
 of this identical beauty, nature's masterpiece of the fea- 
 thered creation. But nothing can do it justice in the ab- 
 sence of colors ; and its portrait even, which I possess, 
 and so well done as apparently to be regarded with all the 
 affection of self-esteem by the beautiful bird itself, reaches 
 not the spirit of the gay original. Its light-blue and 
 graceful bill, placed in its emerald green bed ; its choco- 
 late breast and pinions in contrast with its brilliant yellow 
 of the upper part of the head and back, darker shaded 
 towards the wings ; and then, its gorgeous tuft of white, 
 downy, and elongated plumage, tinged with saffron and 
 extending itself like a train of light, all harmonize, in their 
 blended colors, to form a perfect whole, which animated 
 nature nowhere else presents. Sweet thing ! it would 
 seem that it ought to have a sweeter voice that all the 
 symphonies of nature the ^Eolian strain the whisper of 
 the pine-top and notes, they say of old, that syrens used, 
 when they would throw a spell over the spirits of those 
 they enchanted, should be blended in the note of a thing 
 so fair and so perfect. Who can look on thee, thou beau- 
 tiful bird, and not be won by the beautiful Mind that con 
 ceived the harmonies of thy coloring, and painted thee as 
 thou art ! 
 
 There are a great variety of other birds here, gorgeous 
 in their plumage, and surpassing, for their beauty, the 
 conceptions of one who has never seen them represented 
 in ornithological plates. Among these is the golden 
 pheasant, the silver pheasant, the Argus pheasant, and 
 more beautiful than all, the Tartar pheasant. They are 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 117 
 
 larger than the English or American pheasant ; and their 
 gorgeous plumage of yellow and crimson and silver, with 
 the hundred eyes of the Argus pheasant strewed upon its 
 feathers, make the peacock almost a common bird beside 
 them as they attract the admiration of the lover of ani- 
 mated nature. The mandarin duck is a peculiar bird ; 
 and beautiful sparrows, green pigeons, red and white par- 
 rots, finches, and half a hundred variety of other birds 
 were seen, flying or hopping about within this spacious 
 wire cage, which covered an extent sufficient to embrace 
 the boughs and trunks of several well-grown trees, and 
 an artificial water-pond, giving to these winged idlers of 
 the tropics an evergreen grove through which to cut the 
 air, to build their nests, to lave their wings, and to sport 
 in harmony, shade, and song. 
 
 THE AMERICAN MISSIONARIES TO CHINA. 
 
 The American Missionaries to China make Macao 
 their residence. Here, they can enjoy all the advantages 
 they need in acquiring a knowledge of the Chinese lan- 
 guage, printing their books, and an ample field for mis- 
 sionary labor among the extensive Chinese population of 
 Macao. The city is within a day's sail of Canton, and 
 passage-boats daily ply bevveen the two places. Here, 
 too, there is always more or less European society, being 
 the only place at which foreign females can reside. And 
 here they have the protection of the Portuguese laws, so 
 far as those laws are adequate to yield it. The Baptist 
 Society have three missionaries here, Mr. and Mrs. Shuck, 
 and Mr. Roberts. They each have a small school of 
 Chinese scholars ; and while giving them instruction, con- 
 tinue their own application to the acquisition of the Chi- 
 nese language. These missionaries have been in China 
 some time more than a year, and have accomplished a 
 knowledge of the language which enables them to com- 
 municate freely with the Chinese. It is the only language 
 in which they converse in their intercourse with their 
 pupils and domestics. 
 
 It is a vast work that opens before the missionary to the 
 Chinese empire ; and surely if there were no arm but that 
 
118 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of mortals on which to rely in the hoped-for revolutions 
 that are to be effected in the institutions of these people, 
 for the introduction of the principles of the gospel of Jesus 
 Christ, this small band, gathered at this point, might well 
 veil their expectations of a brighter day in the deep shades 
 that seem to hang thickly over the onward prospect of 
 three hundred and sixty millions of people. But there is 
 already a breaking away most assuredly observable in the 
 moral horizon of this extended nation. There are facilities 
 now existing which have not before existed for the acqui- 
 sition of the Chinese language. The genius of the people 
 is being developed to the perceptions of intelligent men ; 
 and a mighty revolution in the physical circumstances of 
 a people, thus surrounded by Christian powers, daily ap- 
 proaching nearer and nearer to them, and whose commer- 
 cial and political interests are beginning to come in sensi- 
 tive contact, is destined, ere long, to come. The age is 
 one of light, mental, moral, and philosophical inquiry, 
 which has characterized no other period of the world,- and 
 which cannot let the Chinese empire remain unaffected by 
 its influence. China must be opened. The time is at 
 hand when a combination of nations more enlightened and 
 powerful in arms, science, and literature, shall WILL it; and 
 the Chinese cannot, in the nature of moral causes and 
 their effects, hinder it. In the mean time the missionary 
 is doing the right thing, in preparing the truth for the ac- 
 ceptance of the nation, when circumstances shall have so 
 conspired as to render it admissible and acceptable. 
 There are men who have acquired the Chinese language, 
 so as to write it with accuracy and considerable elegance. 
 The Bible has been translated into the Chinese character. 
 And the Chinese, when once the chain of olden habits and 
 institutions shall have been riven by the light of truer 
 science and philosophy, will be found a people with less in 
 their habits of thinking and systems opposing Christianity, 
 than exists among many other nations, and far less than 
 has and continues to be the influence of cast, or the op- 
 posing peculiarities of the creed of Mohammed. 
 
 The Christian world is becoming more and more inter- 
 ested in this people. They are a courteous and civilized 
 nation. They are a reasoning people among the higher 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 119 
 
 orders, who govern, unopposed, the lower classes. The 
 rulers are a literati nobility, or an aristocracy, to which 
 the acquaintance with books (such as they are) alone 
 makes them eligible. And thus they are prepared, and 
 will be prepared, in the revolutions that shall introduce to 
 their attention better principles, with the greater light and 
 knowledge of the European nations and systems, to ap- 
 preciate these principles. And with a government con- 
 structed as the Chinese government is, one Emperor might 
 spread Christianity, almost without opposition, throughout 
 the empire of China. His word is law ; and besides, the 
 Confucian system, to which the literati, who are the same 
 as the rulers, belong, has, according to their own senti- 
 ments, but little to do with the gods, about whom they 
 say they know but little, and ought to have but little to 
 do. The Confucian system is a system of political eco- 
 nomy, and its grand principle is that of obedience to the 
 powers that are, resulting from the first principle Con- 
 fucius inculcates, of veneration and obedience to parents. 
 The Emperor being the great father of the empire, the 
 same principle carried up secures to him the same, though 
 greater veneration and obedience, which, in the premises, 
 the Scriptures would not oppose, but inculcate. And 
 could the Bible be introduced into the literary course of 
 the Chinese as one of their classics, even alongside of 
 Confucius as their political code, their system, as it now 
 stands, would make the nation possessed of one of the most 
 enviable courses of education the world could know. It 
 would be the desideratum in systems, in Christian and na- 
 tional education, which good men can hardly hope for, 
 but which they most justly and devoutly might wish and 
 pray for. Of course, I suppose that the commentaries on 
 the different subjects of the Scriptures should be, and 
 would be, as extended and numerous in the illustration of 
 the text, as is the case now with the Chinese classics, in 
 the course of their graduates. 
 
 But I am rather anticipating the subject here, while it 
 is yet a very natural association to make mention of the 
 missionaries to China in this place, as they are resident at 
 Macao. 
 
 The Rev. Messrs. Brid^man, Abeel, Browne, Mr. WiU 
 37* 
 
120 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 liams and Mrs. Browne, are also here, connected with the 
 American Board or other Presbyterian missionary societies 
 in the U. S. Mr. and Mrs. B. have not long been in the 
 missionary field, having arrived some six months since. 
 Besides these American missionaries, the Rev. Mr. Gutz- 
 laff, of wide-spread reputation in England and America, 
 resides with his family, Mrs. G. and two nieces, at Macao. 
 It has been my pleasure to meet this agreeable gentleman 
 and his pleasant family. Mr. G. is a gentleman of much 
 vivacity of character, has acquired a very intimate know- 
 ledge of Chinese for a foreigner, and is now one of the 
 interpreters to the Queen's commission. 
 
 Surely it is no small task the missionary enters upon, 
 when he devotes himself to a cause which is to require the 
 efforts of his life ; and for years must secure from him un- 
 tiring industry, to enable him to acquire a foreign tongue, 
 without which his usefulness can be of little extent. It 
 can be no sinecure. There can be no cessation to effort ; 
 patience, application, and an untiring industry, must char- 
 acterize the labor of the missionary in such a field. And 
 I have witnessed it. And he who has gone through the 
 toil, in his early days of boyhood, in his course of studies 
 of the dead languages, can estimate the labor and the un- 
 tiring application that it must cost the Christian mission- 
 ary to gain the competent knowledge of a foreign tongue 
 for the discharge of successful labors. And there are 
 untold and unknown sorrows and difficulties and disap- 
 pointments that, in the nature of things, often meet these 
 devoted men and women, that none but those placed in 
 similar circumstances can justly estimate. Though of a 
 different denomination from all the missionaries whom I 
 have met at the different stations where our ships have 
 touched, I am happy of the opportunity of adding my tes- 
 timony to their untiring efforts, and in most cases, success- 
 ful action in behalf of the people to whom they have been 
 sent, and to whom they have given their Christian sym- 
 pathies. And while they are thus engaged in the service 
 of their Lord, we should not forget, in our estimate of 
 their sacrifices, that they lose not their sensibilities which 
 attach them to their native home. Indeed, the very fact 
 of their being on missionary ground, is presumptive evi- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 121 
 
 dence of a tender heart a heart that swells in benevo- 
 lence and pious devotion for others and strangers, and 
 with kindling devotion to the Saviour of mankind, who 
 sacrificed so much for their personal welfare. And so 
 the thoughts of the missionary do go home to their native 
 land. So they do revisit, with intenser love, the haunts 
 of their infancy and youth and friends and kindred, ren- 
 dered doubly dear, as the often loneliness and difficulties 
 around them contrast so vividly in their memories with 
 the circumstances and the associations which they left 
 behind them. And yet, they would not retreat from the 
 field they occupy. They but redouble their effort in their 
 devotion to the cause to which their voluntary act has 
 consecrated them, but not to the exclusion of those sensi- 
 bilities which make their sacrifices the greater, in propor- 
 tion to the depth of their feelings. And to show that it is 
 no sudden impulse of enthusiasm that actuates the devotee 
 of missions and the Christian friends who resign their 
 kindred to a living burial, as it has been to most who have 
 parted with friends, as to their hopes of again meeting in 
 this world ; but on the contrary, that there is judicious 
 and considerate thought, of considerate and intelligent and 
 calm minds, capable of seeing the relations of things and 
 their fitness, in the decisions which cause the missionary 
 to leave his or her home for life, and to devote himself 
 and herself to a foreign people, I introduce here a private 
 paper which was written by an affectionate father, whose 
 heart was then bleeding over the hourly-expected de- 
 parture of an affectionate daughter, for a life's devotion to 
 the cause of missions in a foreign land. The counsel 
 given is valuable in other stations, but shows that our 
 missionaries who go abroad are from among the sterling 
 families at home. The first paper I copy is addressed by 
 the father to his daughter in her new relations as a mis- 
 sionary's wife. The second is the father's farewell letter 
 to this daughter, at the hour of her leaving him. 
 
 " A few private thoughts for MARY. 
 
 " First, on the subject of your marriage. 
 
 " You will find in many books, rules, and good rules 
 for the government of your conduct in respect to your 
 husband ; but you may not meet with them, or if you do, 
 
122 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 may not subscribe to them so entirely as to practise them. 
 You will find the sum and substance of your duty in this 
 respect in a volume which you will always, I trust, have 
 near you the Bible. If you observe strictly the direc- 
 tions therein contained, you will find your account in it. 
 Your happiness and usefulness, depend upon it, is inti- 
 mately connected with the manner in which you observe 
 these rules. One principle must, of necessity, be acted 
 on, and that is, you must yield to ike will of your husband, 
 whenever the point is made. This must be the case, or 
 he must yield to you. I do not mean that it is necessary 
 to yield a forced obedience, but a willing one. God 
 has constituted the man, as the stronger in mind and body, 
 to have the government, and in proportion as you may 
 be disposed to usurp the authority which belongs to him, 
 you destroy the order of Providence and the harmony of 
 the connubial state. Never, therefore, oppose the will of 
 your husband. You may reason with, and persuade, but 
 do not attempt to dictate to him. i I will' and * I will not, 9 
 are words which should never be found in a wife's vo- 
 cabulary. Never use them to your husband, or you may 
 force him to adopt such as he may lawfully do, but such 
 as he should never have reason for, ' you shall? and ' you 
 shall not 9 
 
 " Do not fret at or quarrel with your husband, on any 
 occasion. He is fallible, and may sometimes err and may 
 speak unadvisedly, but on such occasions be silent and 
 affectionate, and you will reform him. 
 
 " Be always neat and cleanly in your person and dress, 
 and you will increase his love and respect for you. A 
 sluttish appearance in a wife distresses and may disgust 
 a husband. Little differences may, and will, sometimes 
 occur between man and wife. Should you find this your 
 case, take the earliest opportunity of making the first over- 
 ture of reconciliation. You will thereby heal the wound, 
 and increase the love of your husband. 
 
 " When you reach your place of destination, and your 
 husband is necessarily compelled to be often absent from 
 you, do not take it as evidence of his want of affection. If 
 he stays beyond the time expected, meet him on his return 
 with smiles and caresses ; and depend on it he will be 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 123 
 
 thereby induced to hasten home, when otherwise he might 
 not. Make home the quietest and happiest place, and he 
 will love it. But yet he must often leave it, and you must 
 consent that he should. 
 
 " Your husband may die before you. In that case, re- 
 member that if I am living you should take no important 
 step without my advice, however distant, if it can be 
 avoided. If it be impossible to get that advice, go to the 
 pious and experienced, with whom you may be associated. 
 
 " Improve your handwriting. It needs it. Write all 
 your letters and journals with care as to penmanship, spell- 
 ing, and diction. 
 
 "Do not be impatient when sick. You are rather 
 predisposed that way. Take great care of your health. 
 Avoid the sun when hot, and the dews, and all improper 
 food ; and do not take medicine too freely, and without 
 great caution. 
 
 " Avoid careless habits in every thing. 
 
 " A place for every thing and every thing in its place." 
 
 " MY DEAR MARY, 
 
 " The time is at hand when you are to bid adieu to the 
 land of your birth, to enter upon a mission of mercy to a 
 distant and heathen portion of our race. If commissioned 
 upon this embassy of peace and salvation to perishing sin- 
 ners by the King of kings, I doubt not he will furnish you 
 with such instructions, and afford you such encourage- 
 ment and support as will enable you to accomplish the 
 object of your mission. God however will not speak au- 
 dibly in your ears, and you will have to receive his com- 
 munications through the medium of his word, his servants, 
 and by his Spirit operating upon your heart and moving 
 you in the path of duty. 
 
 " Placed in the endearing relation to you of a father, it 
 may not be contrary to 'the will of our heavenly Parent 
 that I should assume the duty of imparting some instruc- 
 tion to you, touching the important business upon which 
 you are about to enter. 
 
 " I have no reason to doubt the correctness of the mo- 
 tives which influence you. The sacrifice of all further 
 personal intercourse on earth with so many dear friends, 
 
124 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to encounter the dangers of the ocean, and to live and die 
 among uncultivated heathen, would seem to be proof 
 enough of your disinterestedness, did we not know the 
 pride and deceitfulness of the human heart. The desire 
 of distinction, love of novelty, etc., are such insidious mo- 
 tives which sometimes assume the name of philanthropy, 
 that it requires great caution and much self-examination 
 to detect them. On this point' I need not enlarge. You 
 know that for these twelve months you have had my 
 thoughts upon it. You have, as I trust, prayerfully and 
 deliberately considered the subject in all its bearings ; and 
 you have decided to go. In making this decision, you 
 have subjected yourself to many unkind remarks from the 
 illiberal, the ignorant, and the wicked ; some of which 
 may have reached your ears, but by far the greater part 
 have been uttered out of your hearing. To say that I 
 have no fears whatever for you, would be untrue. It is 
 what, I presume, you would not venture to say for your- 
 self. We should distrust and jealously watch every mo- 
 tive which has so much to do with self. While I would 
 not myself, nor would I have you indulge a confident 
 boasting in regard to this matter, at the same time I am 
 free to express the opinion, that, so far as we can judge, 
 it is the will of God that you should take this step. If we 
 be mistaken, I trust that he will pardon our blindness and 
 overrule all for good. 
 
 " You have, my dear child, taken upon you the name 
 and office of a missionary a name and office which a Jud- 
 son, and Newell, and Morrison, and Gutzlaff, and others 
 have caused to be associated with honor ; but you must 
 remember that they are not necessarily thus associated. 
 The reputation which those missionaries which have pre- 
 ceded you have obtained, cannot be transferred to you. 
 By patient, continued, and faithful labor in the cause of 
 Christ, must you win and share the honors of a mission- 
 ary's life. 
 
 " While the result of your toils in the cause may con- 
 fer some degree of honor upon yourself, let it not be for- 
 gotten that this is the least consideration which should 
 animate you. The glory of God and the good of souls 
 should move you to the same exertions, were you confi* 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 125 
 
 dent that, in the world, your motives might be impugned 
 and your name be brought into disrepute. For the sake 
 of the cause, however, in which you are engaged, it should 
 be your care to gain a standing with the world at least 
 the Christian world for a degree of moral and religious 
 worth. Aim at high attainments in personal piety, not 
 such as will cause you to feel like the Pharisee when he 
 said, 'God, I thank thee,' &c., but rather, such as will 
 humble you and bring you to the foot of the cross, and 
 cause you to adopt the prayer of the publican, * God be 
 merciful to me a sinner/ 
 
 " P. S. Since writing the above, we have attended the 
 meeting for the public designation of your company as 
 missionaries, and we have heard the official instructions of 
 the Board. Those instructions are the result of age and 
 experience, and contain all perhaps that is necessary for 
 your guidance ; and I shall, without repeating such thoughts 
 as are there suggested, only insist, w r ith parental earnest- 
 ness, that you pay strict regard to them. 
 
 "There is one thought that I would impress deeply upon 
 your mind, and that is, that you have enlisted for life ; 
 and that, unless extraordinary occurrences of Providence 
 shall otherwise indicate, you are never to return to Ameri- 
 ca never, unless the Board here shall advise and require it. 
 
 " I part with you with all the feelings of nature, and 
 shall, when let down to the feeling point, (for I am above 
 it,) weep on account of our separation ; but I assure you 
 that I do not regret you are going. Assure me that all is 
 right in motive with us all, and that God requires it, and 
 I rejoice in the prospect of your living and dying on hea- 
 then ground. I should look upon it as a lasting stigma 
 were you to become tired of your vocation, and quit the 
 service in which you have engaged. Although you have 
 reflected on many trials and difficulties that may attend 
 you, after all you perhaps have not thought of half that 
 you will experience. Prepare your mind for the worst. 
 You should not however doubt the faithfulness of God 
 that he will be with you alway. 
 
 " In your intercourse with your fellow laborers in the 
 same service, I hope you will find much pleasure. Catch 
 all their virtues and avoid all their foibles, if they have any. 
 
126 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 " You will have much time during the voyage, and af- 
 terwards, it is probable, for devotion, reading, and reflec- 
 tion. Endeavor to improve it. Lay in a good stock of 
 useful knowledge, and do not consider your education as 
 yet completed. Take care of minutes, and have system 
 in all your affairs. 
 
 " Remember those you leave behind your brothers, 
 sisters, friends ! Pray for them, and write to them. We 
 part in a short time to meet no more on earth ! But we 
 shall meet again shortly, in heaven. Till then, fare- 
 well!! 
 
 " YOUR FATHER." 
 
 Owing to the prevalence of the typhoons in the China 
 seas during the months of July and August, occurring 
 sometimes sooner and sometimes later in the season, it is 
 deemed imprudent for a ship to lie longer than the latter 
 part of June in the Roads of Macao ; and the shipping, 
 consequently, generally change their anchorage for a har- 
 bor under the lee of Hong Kong, Tung Koo, or Lintin, 
 islands in the neighborhood. Either of the sheets of wa- 
 ter hemmed in by these with other clustering islands and 
 the main land adjacent to them, is deemed to afford a safe 
 anchorage during the prevalence of the hurricanes of the 
 China seas. The Columbia and the John Adams, there- 
 fore, will change their positions from Macao roads for 
 Tung Koo bay some time during the week. I have con- 
 sequently completed my visits to several spots in the city, 
 which I had before omitted to inspect with the minuteness 
 I desired. 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND CATHOLIC PROCESSIONS. 
 
 The public buildings of Macao the senate house, the 
 churches, Santa Clara convent, St. Joseph's college, con- 
 vents of St. Francis and St. Augustine, and the hermitages 
 on their beautiful sites, flanking the city on either wing 
 are all buildings of interest in their olden associations and 
 present material, enough for poetry and fiction ; but, as 
 specimens of architecture, have nothing particular to at- 
 tract ; and their internal arrangements are like all Catholic 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 127 
 
 chapels, with their altars and their particular saints in 
 niches, and the paraphernalia of candlestick, taper, and 
 tinsel. I have never yet seen a respectable and tasteful 
 looking image in a Catholic church, of the hundreds I have 
 seen. They always have the appearance of dusty wax 
 figures, rendered doubly disagreeable for the priestly cos- 
 tume in which they are almost always attired, which could 
 never give grace to a piece of sculpture as true taste would 
 robe a statue, even of a Catholic saint. And then, above 
 all things, to hang a wreath of fresh flowers on such a 
 thing of antiquity, as is often the case, on festival days, 
 when the patron saint of a particular church is paraded 
 through the streets, makes one think that sacrilege is done 
 to the flowers ; and we turn from it as we would from a 
 matron of threescore and ten, who should put paint on her 
 cheeks, and gaudy decorations of gold about her neck and 
 pendants in her ears. A festoon of flowers hangs with 
 better taste on the intersecting bars of that beautiful em- 
 blem, the cross. 
 
 I love an old building. And I love to pace the silent 
 aisles of the olden cathedral, and move beneath the moss- 
 hung walls of the ruins of the convent and church, and 
 courts of the once spacious cloister. And I like, too, the 
 beauty and the freshness of the new and extended building, 
 where there is space and massiveness and proportion blend- 
 ed in harmonies, that bespeak taste and genius in the con- 
 struction. And I love to wander through olden fortifica- 
 tions that have many legends of the past associated with 
 them. And he must be miserably insensible indeed, and a 
 slave to the mere physical of his nature, who can trace 
 the early and later story of this far-settlement of the East, 
 ever in agitation in the furtherance of its own schemes of 
 aggrandizement, or ready to promote the ambitious views 
 of the court of Lisbon, oj the high pretensions of the see 
 of Rome, and finds not quite enough to interest his imagi- 
 nation and his reflection as he treads the high steeps and 
 the deep ravines of the embattled and only asylum for for- 
 eigners in this region of the far East. Here it was, the 
 Jesuits fixed their point of rendezvous from which they 
 made their entree into the celestial empire, penetrated to 
 the imperial city, and had made the nation of the Chinese 
 
 38 
 
128 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a species of Christians had the Pope acted with the policy 
 of these his sworn adherents, and prevented the mendicant 
 monks, with their opposing tenets, to find their way to 
 China, to the discomfiture of the harmonious action of the 
 Jesuits and the final overthrow of the Catholic cause. And 
 here, the Jesuit, the Dominican, the Augustine and the Ca- 
 puchin, alike found a retreat and safety, when banishment 
 or death awaited them on the promulgation of edicts, more 
 powerful than the bulls of Popes resident half a sphere 
 from the shores of the " middle land." 
 
 I had prepared a sketch in connection with the Catholic 
 religion at Macao, to be introduced in this place. It were 
 a topic, of itself, in connection with collateral subjects 
 which have generally been associated by the Romanists 
 with the action of the Propagandists, sufficient to fill a 
 volume of historic facts, incidents, and reflections thereon 
 dissevered as that action has seldom been from com- 
 mercial and political associations. Nor would it have 
 been in my heart to do the Catholics injustice in this, or 
 ever. On the contrary, where I find that which harmo- 
 nizes with my own sentiment of truth and propriety, it is 
 a pleasure for me to compliment and to commend. But 
 this sketch, here, at least, must be omitted, while briefly 
 alluding, before leaving Macao, to some of the proces- 
 sions of the church, still continued in this olden Portuguese 
 settlement. 
 
 Christmas, Easterday, Whitsuntide, and other festival 
 days, are celebrated with much pomp, though probably 
 with less demonstration of show and veneration than in 
 former times. There are eighteen festivals devoted to the 
 Virgin Mary ; thirteen others to other saints, male and fe- 
 male, and each festival is continued, in its celebration, from 
 nine to thirteen days, and ends with processions through 
 the streets. A flag, or some other conspicuous emblem, 
 designating the saint, or some subject associated with the 
 action and story of the venerated patron, is seen displayed 
 near the church at which the multitude gather to worship ; 
 and sometimes at other places, in honor of the occasion, 
 flags are streaming ; while the public procession is attend- 
 ed by the clergy, in great numbers, chanting the praises 
 of the saint, as his image is borne in its car upon the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 129 
 
 shoulders of devotees. A detachment of the military, with 
 the accompaniment of music, gives martial solemnity to 
 the scene, and the fort of the mount discharges twenty- 
 one guns in honor of the day. The senate defrays, from 
 the royal chest, the expenses of the festival and procession 
 of "our Lady of Conception," who is the patroness of the 
 kingdom. Also, the charges of the festival of the "Guar- 
 dian Angel of the kingdom," of " St. John the Baptist," 
 and of " Corpus Christi day," are defrayed from the public 
 coffers. 
 
 The processions of "Corpus Christi" and of " St. An- 
 tonio" I have had the opportunity of witnessing here. The 
 mass was being repeated as I arrived at the church of St. 
 Domingos, standing at one extremity of the square, which 
 is fronted on the other extreme by the senate house. The 
 military were drawn up at rest, in a line extending from 
 the church on their left far down the wide street. The 
 church was filled to a jam, by Portuguese women, kneel- 
 ing in a mass, and most of them with the light shawl thrown 
 over their head, while the dark lace veil formed the head- 
 dress of the better class of the worshippers. The gover- 
 nor was kneeling near the altar, and other military offi- 
 cers occasionally entered, with a genuflection, and left 
 again, watching the progress of the service, and being in 
 readiness to move, at the signal, for the elevation of the 
 Host. 
 
 The mass was over ; and the sacred emblems, consecra- 
 ted and believed to be the body of Christ in verity, were 
 borne by four or six priests, and followed by the vicar gen- 
 eral, the governor, and priests numerous, in their clerical 
 robes, corresponding to their separate orders of Domini- 
 cans, Franciscans, and others, joined by the devout of the 
 multitude. As they passed on from the gate of the church, 
 the military, already formed, wheeled in platoons to the 
 left, uniting with the procession, and the band of music 
 struck up their solemn and fine music, as the procession 
 moved on in measured and martial step towards the sen- 
 ate house -passing through several streets, and back again 
 to the church. All were uncovered, the soldiers carrying 
 their caps in their hand, as their muskets were pressed at 
 their breast. The intense ray of the tropical sun beat alike 
 
130 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 upon the venerable head of the governor and tonsure- 
 priest, and darker and thicker locks of the soldiery. But 
 the procession had soon performed its circuit, while min- 
 ute guns from the fort of the mount bore their testimony 
 of consciousness that the devotees were on their solemn 
 march ; which, with the circumstance and pomp and re- 
 spectful demeanor of the joiners in with the procession, 
 and the mass of spectators that crowded each side of the 
 street, or thronged the windows of the houses, presented, 
 at once, an imposing and impressive scene. 
 
 The procession in honor of St. Anthony was not dissimi- 
 lar to that of " Corpus Christi," though less imposing. In- 
 stead of the Host, the image of St. Anthony, who is the 
 patron saint of the kingdom, was borne in procession. I 
 was particularly well situated for witnessing this proces- 
 sion, as I occupied a position on the turret overlooking the 
 square, within which the procession moved to the strains 
 of martial music, and followed by the various orders of 
 the brotherhoods. The figure of St. Anthony himself 
 was a small statue, wreathed with a garland of the sweet 
 little malati flowers, and his car decorated with tinsel. 
 The silver cross and other emblems were borne in pro- 
 cession. 
 
 It will appear a curious particular to those not familiar 
 in their associations with the peculiarities of Catholic wor- 
 shippers and system of saints, that this said St. Anthony, 
 considered the* protector of Macao as he is of the king- 
 dom of Portugal, is declared by authentic documents to 
 have been enlisted as a soldier in 1725, and in 1783 he 
 obtained the rank of captain. On the eve of the proces- 
 sion the amount of a captains annual pay is sent by the 
 senate to the curate, which is used for the expenses for 
 celebrating worship, and preserving the edifice and uten- 
 sils in neatness for the service of the patron's church. 
 
 There is another procession said to take place on the 
 Sunday of the Cross, yet more impressive than any other. 
 On this occasion, " the image of the Redeemer, clad in a 
 purple garment, wearing on his head a crown of thorns, 
 and on his shoulders bearing a heavy cross, bends his 
 knees on the bottom of a bier, supported by eight of the 
 most distinguished citizens. The bishop, with the secular 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 131 
 
 and regular clergy, the governor, nobility and military, and 
 the whole Roman Catholic population, it may be said, assist, 
 deeply affected by a scene which prognosticates a divine 
 sacrifice to be made for reconciling man with his Creator. 
 Young children of both clear and dark skins, arrayed in 
 fancy dresses of angels, with beautiful muslin wings at the 
 shoulders, carry, in a miniature shape, the instruments 
 which were required at the crucifixion. This procession 
 takes a range over almost the whole city. When finished, 
 the image of Christ is deposited in its shrine at the Con- 
 vent of St. Augustine." 
 
 But, the time had now come, June the 14th, when I was 
 to leave Macao. I had already sent my moveables to the 
 ship ; and this morning, as I took a walk on the Praya 
 Grande, I was accosted by Mr. Forbes, a gentleman of 
 great urbanity of feeling and manner. He said he under- 
 stood I desired to visit Canton a boat was going to-mor- 
 row morning, and he should be happy if I would form one 
 of the company. It was no longer deemed much risk of 
 detention by visiting Canton. I only waited the opportu- 
 nity, therefore, for visiting the city. 
 
 ON THE WAY TO CANTON. 
 
 If it did not offer from Macao, I presumed to find one 
 immediately after our ship reached her anchorage at Tung 
 Koo Bay. But this opportunity now presenting, my ar- 
 rangements were soon made for an early start on the 
 morning of the 15th, in the little Sylph, that mischief- 
 making little passage-boat, which it is supposed in former 
 times has carried much of the contraband narcotic to 
 Canton, but henceforward must make a living by being 
 employed in a more legitimate business. And so, on 
 board of this little clipper I was, in the morning, and with 
 the sunrise up came the anchor, and we were away. 
 
 "Away," and on my course to Canton. Perhaps we 
 should reach there the same night ; we did reach there the 
 next morning. Canton ! It is not the Doric temple, the 
 Corinthian pillar, the dome of mosque or the Gothic mas- 
 sive pile, that give interest to an inhabited or desolate city. 
 It is the associations of the past, whether there be lofty 
 
 38* 
 
132 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 palace or crumbling ruin, stately buildings or but the cot- 
 tage-lodge which marks a locality, and throws a spell 
 around a place of desolation or of active and successful life. 
 And Canton, be it what it may in external appearance, 
 cannot disappoint the mind that has more to do with itself 
 than with external objects. What youth of either hemi- 
 sphere of the civilized world has not had his mind filled 
 with images of Chinese association ? He has read de- 
 scriptions of the celestial empire and its long-cue or braid 
 inhabitants ; and contemplated in drawings the delinea- 
 tions of their peculiar costume, and more than half-shaven 
 heads, and turn-up and thick-soled shoes, altogether ex- 
 hibiting a picture, which resembles the creature man as 
 found in no other part of the globe. And when the child's 
 inquisitiveness has first begun to develop itself, his curios- 
 ity has been replied to as he was told that the green leaves 
 of which his tea is made came from China. And the young 
 American, the first thing he learns of the history of his own 
 country, next to the stories of the Indian wars, from the lips 
 of his mother, is the narrative of the tea plot how certain 
 men in masks went on board of a tea-ship in the harbor 
 of Boston, and threw the chests overboard, because our 
 forefathers would not suffer themselves to be taxed by the 
 mother country. His imagination at once takes in the 
 whole scene of the maskers throwing the tea-chests to the 
 wave, and perhaps can hardly reconcile to his idea the 
 propriety of the waste, at the moment, while the mysteri- 
 ous occupies his young imagination, and he leaves the 
 comprehension of the great principles that were involved, 
 for the consideration of riper years. And then he has 
 wondered, as he has yielded to the conviction that the 
 world is round, what sort of people are they on that side 
 of the world opposite to him ! And while he has read 
 and become older, he still feels that his imagination has the 
 most to do in the origin of the feelings with which he 
 makes his deductions in connection with the people of the 
 eastern world. For myself, I should have cared not if the 
 city of Canton had been found built on a barren rock 
 her dwellings bamboo houses, could I but yet have found 
 her thousand boats lying in the stream with their crowded 
 families and chickens and ducks, which I had read of; and 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 133 
 
 the junks, and the dragon-boats ; and on shore, the crowded 
 populace, the long cues of the men, and the small feet of 
 the women, and the trinkets, and the ivory things, and the 
 silks, and the shawls, and the crapes, and the teas. 
 
 But, our sails being set, and the wind favorable enough 
 for our gaff-topsail, the little schooner soon made her way 
 through the little islands, becoming more and more nume- 
 rous as Macao is left in the distance, and the Bogue begins 
 to open to the eye. 
 
 The Bogue, so often alluded to in the accounts of Can- 
 ton, and particularly in connection with difficulties which 
 have at different times occurred here in the English com- 
 merce, and within a few years back inducing the British men- 
 of-war to "force the Bogue," is formed by the near ap- 
 proach of two islands, through which the waters of the 
 river Tigris disgorge as its outlet, and from which, some 
 thirty to forty miles up the river, the city of Canton is 
 situated. There are two fortifications here of considera- 
 ble extent, one on either side. In the hands of other pow- 
 ers, arid with fortifications properly constructed, this pass 
 would be impregnable. As it is, the range of cannon are 
 placed on immoveable carriages, and, by consequence, can 
 fire only in one line of direction. As they are now con- 
 structed, no man-of-war would deem the risk of the passage 
 of much account, although a cross-fire, in other hands, 
 would be brought to bear on the ship. 
 
 As we neared the Bogue we saw in the distance an ob- 
 ject drifting to the leeward. It was approaching dusk, and 
 though we made out the object to be a boat bottom up- 
 wards, and had consulted the propriety of putting about for 
 their rescue, as the waves were running rather high, and 
 the breeze fresh, we yet could not define the object with 
 much distinctness. Our captain, a dark Bengalese, said it 
 would be of no use to stand after the sufferers, as we had 
 no small boat to lower for their assistance. We should 
 probably have disagreed with him, even to his being put 
 out of his honorable command, had we not fortunately at 
 the same moment discerned a Hearing junk, which had 
 evidently discovered the same boat, and was beating down 
 for her. We watched the junk on her several tacks, until, 
 while there was yet light enough to save us from mistake, 
 
134 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 we saw her lower her sails as she hove to, near the object 
 in distress, and a small boat put off for their relief. 
 
 The Sylph having been examined at the Bogue, and the 
 passengers identified as per the chop, which had been fur- 
 nished at Macao, we passed on up the river. The first 
 object that met my eye as I awoke at early daylight, was 
 the towering nine-storied pagoda near Whampoa, reali- 
 zing in all its proportions and outline the drawings I had 
 seen of these octagonal and picturesque and mysterious 
 buildings. 
 
 The scenery now changed from the boldness that char- 
 acterizes the heights of the land views at the Bogue, and 
 about Whampoa, to the plain on the edges of the river, 
 where the paddy-fields were seen, and the banana trees 
 growing, and here and there the mulberry, with its light 
 green leaves, forming an interesting edging to the banks 
 of the Tigris. 
 
 The junks now began to increase in their numbers, and 
 the lesser boats to thicken in their clusters, and new war- 
 junks swinging in the stream as we continued to near 
 the city. And now, the city itself, over a flotilla of boats, 
 came into view, the single pagoda within the walls of the 
 town, and the cupola of the Moormen's mosque, and the 
 embattlement, here and there, of the wall itself; while 
 the back-ground was filled up with high lands rising 
 in broken and receding outline. The Dutch and the 
 French folly next meet the eye, as the Sylph glided along, 
 now slowly against the rapid tide, dodging a clump of 
 boats here and a fleet of junks there, and lesser boats 
 everywhere, of every variety the mandarin, the passage, 
 the flower, and the tanka-boat all unique in their way, 
 some of them bearing about them the air of comfort and 
 neatness and space, with ornamental carved-work ; while 
 others looked as if they might have drifted there from 
 among the wrecks of Noah's flood. 
 
 Here was a scene of life that no other stream of the 
 world, probably, exhibits. Each shore of 'the river was 
 lined with varied boats several tiers thick, from the im- 
 mense deckers that bring the teas down the river, with 
 their varnished sides and roofs, to the smallest tanka, all 
 with any number of young celestials displaying themselves 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 135 
 
 at the openings in the sides, with older heads of men and 
 no less curiously inspecting women, gazing from these 
 water-castles and their homes sometimes indulging in 
 the shout agreeable to themselves, " Fanqui, Fanqui," to 
 attract the attention of the absent of their family to look 
 with themselves at the " foreign devils." And now, one 
 is almost indignant at the tone of humorous salutation and 
 sometimes derision with which the stranger is greeted, 
 who, however, quite as much pleased with himself in the 
 contrast before him, soon indulges in the better taste, and 
 smiles as he contemplates the scene, the curious scene 
 that now lies around him. 
 
 Having reached a point of the stream nearly opposite 
 the foreign factories, the Sylph let go her anchor. Small 
 boats were immediately alongside, eager to take us to the 
 shore ; and in a few moments more, with my trunks, I 
 was dodging from one line of junks to another, in a tanka- 
 boat propelled by two Chinese women, now with oars, 
 now with long bamboo poles, now with the hands, as they 
 seized the sides of a line of anchored vessels riding in the 
 stream, until, ere long, we reached the point of land in the 
 neighborhood of the American hong. 
 
 No one is more pleased than a Chinese with silver 
 coin ; none, the Chinese think, understand the value of a 
 dollar less than a Fanqui : hence they charge a foreigner 
 more than ten times the amount they would presume to 
 ask for doing the same thing for one of their fellow celes- 
 tials. But a visiter at Canton, at these times, values his 
 time more than money ; and at a trifling expense for the 
 amusement I experienced by the scenes occurring before 
 me, I found myself at the door of the American hong, 
 occupied by Messrs. Oliphant, King & Co., and Dr. Parker. 
 My inquiry for the latter gentleman soon brought me a 
 most cordial welcome to Canton, from Dr. Parker, in 
 person. 
 
136 
 
 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 137 
 
 SECTION V. 
 
 CANTON. 
 
 Dr. Parker. Bible of J. Brainerd Taylor. Residence at the American 
 Hong. Imprisonment of the foreigners. A stroll with Dr. Parker. Chi- 
 nese Temples. The dying beggars. Call on a wealthy Chinese. His 
 grounds. Dr. Parker no cash doctor. Ophthalmic Hospital. Cases. 
 The opinion of the Chinese of Dr. Parker. Temple of Longevity. Ce- 
 lebrated Budhist. Temple at Hanan. Sacred hogs. City of Canton. 
 Literary examinations. Poetry. The Chinese Language. Walk around 
 the city wall, and entrance into the city through a breach in the walls. 
 Variety. Teas. Leaving Canton. 
 
 WHILE at Macao I had heard from Dr. Parker, that he 
 believed he had seen me in America ; and an indistinct 
 impression was on my own mind that I had heard my 
 friends mention his name, as an acquaintance of theirs. 
 The familiar and cordial reception which Dr. Parker had 
 given me led to the expression of this idea. " Yes," Dr. 
 P. replied, with his agreeable smile, as he turned to the 
 bookcase behind him and took from it a small morocco- 
 covered Bible ; " yes ; and do you recognise this ? It was 
 given me by your sister, Mrs. K. T., at the moment of 
 my leaving New York." It was a melancholy recognition ; 
 but at such a moment, and under such circumstances, and 
 in such hands, it was a grateful pleasure to see the pocket 
 Bible of my lamented brother, JAMES BRAINERD TAYLOR, 
 whose story has been told for his devotion and love of 
 the Scriptures, and over which identical little volume I 
 had seen him, for hours, and daily, in absorbed and de- 
 lightful study. With such an incident occurring, we could 
 not long be strangers. I was soon afterwards introduced 
 to Mr. Morse, of the house of Messrs. O., K. & Co., at 
 whose table, with Dr. Parker, I am to be entertained 
 during my stay in Canton. 
 
 THE HONGS FOR THE FOREIGNERS. 
 
 The American hong is an extensive building, three 
 stories high, fronting the grounds on the river, and extend- 
 
138 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ing back for some three or four hundred feet, with an open 
 passage-way, or narrow court, running through its centre 
 from the front to the back walls. The building is divided 
 into three compartments, commencing with number one 
 for the front, number two for the centre, and number 
 three for the rear part of the establishment. Within this 
 range of walls are the store-rooms, and rooms occupied 
 by the comprador coolies, and other servants attached to 
 the hong, comprising the basement stairs or ground-floor, 
 and the second story affording fine drawing-rooms and 
 chambers, both spacious and airy, two requisites for com- 
 fort in this climate. The top of the building is crowned 
 by a turret, affording an ample space for a promenade at 
 the edge of evening, for gaining the cool breeze, and from 
 which an extensive view is had of the inwalled city in the 
 rear, and in front, of the river with its thousand boats, 
 either lying in their dense rafts or passing and repassing 
 down and up the stream. 
 
 The other hongs, or as they are otherwise called, facto- 
 ries, which are no more nor less than extensive and con- 
 venient brick residences and store-houses for the foreigners, 
 according to their several nations, are similar to the Amer- 
 ican hong, and situated mostly on its left, others on its 
 right. The Chinese hong-merchants, by w r hom the prin- 
 cipal business is transacted with the foreigners, and who 
 legitimately enjoy the monopoly of the foreign trade, also 
 have their factories. They are the body of men, twelve 
 in number, through whom the Chinese government hold 
 communication with foreigners, it being deemed beneath 
 the dignity of the higher orders of the mandarins to hold 
 direct intercourse with " barbarians" of the outer land, or 
 to have any association with the " foreign devils." 
 
 It was within these buildings the foreign community 
 were confined during the late troubles ; the streets leading 
 from the area, and fronting the factories, were stopped 
 with brick and mortar, and the doors opening upon the 
 street from the rear of the hongs were also closed in the 
 same manner. A semicircular and triple tier of boats 
 were arranged on the river in front of the factories, so as 
 to intercept the passage of the foreigners, should they at- 
 tempt to make their escape by crossing the river. Thus 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 139 
 
 were they entirely surrounded, and escape impossible, as 
 long as the government so willed it. 
 
 The hongs are apparently deserted now, in comparison 
 to what has been unsual in times of mutual good under- 
 standing between the foreigners and the Chinese. All the 
 English have retired, with the Queen's commission, to 
 Macao. The Americans, most of them, had also left the 
 city, and all others of other nations ; while some one 
 member or more of each American house remains with 
 the purpose of accepting certain conditions for the conti- 
 nuance of their trade the English being the party most 
 particularly involved in the present disturbances. The 
 streets leading from the front grounds of the factories are 
 still closed, as they were when the foreigners were pri- 
 soners a few days since, with one exception. A strict 
 guard was kept during the imprisonment vile of the 
 foreigners, and many demonstrations still present them- 
 selves about the premises, which show, besides the ab- 
 sence of the stir of business, that there has been no small 
 change here, and that high-handed measures have charac- 
 terized the movements of the ill-informed and self-com- 
 placent mandarins ; for all which, if I prognosticate not 
 wrongly, a " pay-day" will come which shall bear with it 
 both information and demonstrations of foreign power 
 that will convince these celestials that their inner land of 
 the central kingdom possesses not all the might of all the 
 whole earth ; and that there is a right which the favored 
 son of heaven on his imperial throne at Pekin has never 
 dreamed of, and will learn to his once astonishment and 
 cost. i 
 
 The front windows of the American hong overlook the 
 wide flagging running in front of the factories. From 
 the window of the second story, therefore, in front of the 
 drawing-room, we have a fine view of the passers-by as 
 they come down in streams from old China-street. It is 
 amusing to witness the insuppressible and unbounded 
 curiosity of these celestials when they find us at the win- 
 dows. They make a full halt. The boys, who have 
 early been taught to repeat the term " Fanqui," in con- 
 tempt of the foreigner, gaze, where they are the better 
 bred, gravely, and then pass on ; while the more mischie- 
 
 39 
 
140 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 vous cry aloud " Fanqui ! Fanqui ! " and, with a shout, 
 are again on their way. The elder pause, some with a 
 smile, while perhaps a thin and long-bearded old man ap- 
 proaches, and hesitates his step with grave reflections on 
 the past, and with undefined musings in connection with 
 the future. The late transactions here, make the foreigner 
 more than ever an object of curiosity both to the citizen 
 and to the visiters from the interior. While looking from 
 the window, among others we marked an aged Tartar, 
 evidently a stranger at Canton, while a citizen was ear- 
 nestly discoursing to him and pointing out the spot, a 
 little distant from the hong, where the Chinese was exe- 
 cuted in front of the factories, which led to the pulling 
 down of the different flags, by which the insult was in- 
 tended to be resented, and which finally led to the per- 
 sonal rencounter between the mob and the residents 
 of the factories. They also passed on, like hundreds of 
 others, some more grave, some less, some insultingly ; 
 while they all, at the distance of a story beneath us, in- 
 dulge their gaze with an insatiable and unrestrained 
 curiosity. 
 
 RAMBLE THROUGH CANTON. 
 
 Towards evening I took a stroll with Dr. Parker, pass- 
 ing up old China-street, one of the widest streets in the 
 city, and composed of respectable shops on either side ; 
 and in a short time, we had wandered through a number 
 of streets, presenting at once the variety of this extensive 
 mart of the East. Th^ streets are narrow, serving only 
 for foot-passengers, flagged with quarried granite. The 
 shops are open in front ; and as you look down these streets 
 you see a range of perpendicular tablets, designating the 
 different establishments in the picturesque character of the 
 Chinese, and generally in red letters. The scene is unique ; 
 and as you look still further on, the narrowing perspective 
 converges until your sight is entirely obstructed by these 
 gorgeous signs on either side and at every door, with the 
 appellation, or fancy name of the establishment, or the real 
 name of the proprietors, or flowery mottoes in their fan- 
 tastically arranged characters. We passed shops contain- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 141 
 
 ing extensive collections of grotesque figures and antiques, 
 in which the Chinese much delight in the ornamenting of 
 their houses and gardens ; valuable ware from Japan ; 
 ornamented tablets representing mountainous and rural 
 scenes in slabs of marble, having the appearance of mo- 
 saics, but said by the venders to be natural or immense 
 cameos ; shops hung with paintings, arid filled with various 
 other curious things in the glass line, from chandelier to 
 beads of pearl and nob of mandarin ; the paintings, how- 
 ever, all being preposterous, with the exception of an oc- 
 casional copy of some European print; and the glass work 
 is of the roughest kind, save the beautiful and delicate 
 bead in imitation of the pearl, for the decoration of the 
 neck and hair of the Chinese maid and the bride. 
 
 Having wandered through lines of shops containing 
 every variety of valuables and trinkets, dry goods, por- 
 celain and silver ware, carved work in ivory, wood, and 
 shell, and streets that seemed everywhere to be piled on 
 each side with green ginger-roots, and pickles, and eat- 
 ables of every kind, we at length reached a Chinese temple ; 
 but were soon satisfied in contemplating the giant figures 
 occupying the portal of the entrance which opens into the 
 court containing the central building for the inner idols. 
 The priests gave us ready admission, while the crowd that 
 generally followed us were excluded. 
 
 The figures in the temples at Canton are immensely 
 larger than those in the Chinese temples at Macao. The 
 central god is generally sitting within a canopy with a 
 square altar surrounding him, on which are incense urns 
 and taper stands and flower jars, made of the " white 
 copper" of the country, in which severally the josh-sticks 
 are burned, the tapers placed, and the flowers arranged to 
 propitiate and do homage to the presiding deity. In this 
 temple the doctor assured me he had witnessed the ap- 
 proach of a female devotee to the altar. She lighted a 
 josh-stick and placed it in the censer. She then drew, at 
 hazard, a small tablet from a bamboo-cup, at the stand of 
 the priest ; again advanced to the altar, placed the palms 
 of her two hands together, and knocked her head, or made 
 three prostrations before the deity she worshipped. She 
 then returned to the priest, and handed him the small tab- 
 
142 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 let made of the split bamboo, stamped with some Chinese 
 characters. Her husband had gone from home to travel, 
 and she desired in her anxiety to know if he would return 
 in safety. The priest, marking the character on the tablet, 
 turned to his printed book and made a comparison, and de- 
 duced his inferences. " He would soon return in safety," 
 was the reply. The woman, with a relieved countenance, 
 presented the priest with the usual fee for the privilege of 
 learning from the god the desire of her heart, and turned 
 delighted from the temple. 
 
 We left the temple again, after declining the invitation 
 of the priest that we should worship his god, and repassed 
 the huge images at the portal of the court, on whose huge 
 toes were labels, assuring the multitude that the god would 
 grant to his worshippers various cures in the healing art, 
 and wealth, and male heirs to support the honor of his 
 house and to inherit the father's possessions. 
 
 We visited two other temples ; in front of the last was 
 a square, diverging from the street, into which, at night, 
 the beggars gather, after having spent their toil of the day, 
 either to sleep and drown their cares, or to linger out the 
 shaded hours in wakeful sorrow, or, in neglect, to die. 
 Never before have I witnessed such a scene as here was 
 presented to my view. I do not wish to see another like 
 it. The number of beggars to-night, (perhaps it was too 
 early for the return of many,) was not so large as Dr. P. 
 had seen it before. But on the hard flagging, in different 
 parts of this small area of some two hundred feet square, 
 were prostrated different objects of commiseration, lank, 
 lean, haggard. Some were in groups, standing ; others 
 were beneath a little matting, which was sufficiently ele- 
 vated on sticks to enable two or three to gather under, to 
 shelter them from the sun at mid-day. Another was 
 stretched on the hard stone, with his head pressing on his 
 emaciated hand. He could not speak ; but, at our ap- 
 proach, as if by instinct, he seized his basket and extended 
 it with his skeleton arm for cash. We passed to another. 
 He was dying, as he lay with his head against the side- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 143 
 
 wall, down which was led a gutter, as if in his last ex- 
 tremity he had rolled his head there, to catch, it might be, 
 a drop of water, which none gave him, to quench his 
 fevered and dried lip. There was a collection of putrid 
 water here, in which his head had partially fallen. A rag- 
 ged mat concealed his face, and before the night-watch 
 was over, he would be a corpse, with no one to catch his 
 last word, which now, if he would speak it, he could not ! 
 We passed on to another, whose face was uncovered. His 
 eye was turned upon us, but his articulation was gone, 
 his cheek fallen, his mouth partially opened, his body 
 naked, beside him lay his empty basin, and no one was 
 near him. Good God ! I thought, can man be brought to 
 this, houseless, pennyless, naked, breadless, dying, with 
 hundreds of the populace, well clad and smiling, passing 
 him, and abundance filling the neighboring streets, and no 
 eye of pity or hand of charity be found to alleviate such 
 distress, and pity such wretchedness ! I could not sleep 
 that night ; and I thought I would never again murmur 
 against the providence of God, in my allotments of earth. 
 We passed from the scene and the place where the police 
 come every morning to gather up the dead. 
 
 CALL ON TINGQUA. 
 
 We arrived opposite a range of private residences, in 
 better style than any we had before seen. We marked, 
 hanging at the entrance door of one of the principal build- 
 ings, two large blue lanterns, and at once knew, from the 
 custom of the Chinese, that some one of the inmates had 
 died, and that the family were in mourning. Dr. P. im- 
 mediately explained, and said that it was the residence of 
 Tingqua, late one of the principal Chinese hong-mer- 
 chants, who had died. He was a patient of Dr. P.'s ; and 
 his son had returned from Peking, where he was in office 
 of grade, for the purpose of attending to the obsequies 
 and to go through the three years' mourning, according 
 to the usage among the Chinese, on the death of a father. 
 " I should like to show you the grounds of Tingqua," 
 added the doctor, " as a fine specimen of the residence of 
 a Chinese gentleman of the higher orders." 
 
 39* 
 
 L 
 
144 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 A servant was at the door, and Dr. P. sent in our names 
 to know if his friend were to be seen. A message was 
 soon returned, inviting us to enter. We were soon met 
 by the courteous proprietor, and when we had passed a 
 short distance through a narrow aisle, formed by the court 
 walls of the buildings, were immediately conducted to the 
 hall, where the tablets, which had been presented on the 
 demise of the father, were hanging. This spacious and 
 square room, opening in front upon picturesque grounds, 
 broken by water-ponds, was arranged with two rows of 
 seats favorably disposed for the guests to peruse the rich 
 tablets formed of Chinese large characters, in alabaster, 
 on a black ground, and suspended upon the walls as or- 
 namental hangings. We passed, after a few moments' 
 respectful contemplation of these testimonials to the virtues 
 of the dead, and complimentary expressions of sympathy 
 to the family, to a lovely bower, where, as we seated our- 
 selves at a round table, tea was brought and served in 
 small cups resting in silver stands, and with silver plates, 
 perforated with holes, confining the leaves of the tea to 
 the bottom of the cup. We then took a turn through the 
 grounds, embraced within a spacious court, and varied 
 by the intersections of water reservoirs, in which the mag- 
 nificent lotus, that sacred flower of Egypt and Asia and 
 all the East, was arranged in full blossom, in rows of por- 
 celain flower-pots. Here was a verandah beautifully 
 situated there, a little turret overlooking the grounds and 
 the water-ponds and here again a passage-way, with 
 water on either side leading to opposite parts of the 
 garden, and lined with shrubs and flowers, all arranged 
 in glazed flower- pots of porcelain and here again wound 
 a path through a verandah to the side-wall of the court, 
 by which we now reached a more elevated position, ar- 
 ranged with seats and shaded by trees, and commanding 
 the principal parts of the garden. A Chinese book was 
 lying upon the small central stand, as if our literary friend 
 had just dropped his favorite classic for our reception, and 
 now returned with us to his favorite seat. We admired 
 the taste of the student in the selection of this point for his 
 readings, and passed on to a lower and open space nearly 
 surrounded by water, and lined with flower-pots, where 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 145 
 
 we were again seated around a table while tea was once 
 more served, with fruits of various kinds, and sweetmeats, 
 and other dishes, and flowers gathered for our pleasure. 
 But the sweetest flowers that presented themselves, with 
 their sunny smiles and perfect confidence and freedom, 
 were two pretty children one a sweet boy with a perfect 
 head, and the other a beautiful and smiling little girl, whom 
 you loved immediately for their artlessness, and they 
 were so neatly dressed, and ornamented with taste. 
 
 We talked of Peking had we been to Canton before 
 birds animals- and winter. In Peking, said our fine 
 specimen of a Chinese gentleman, we have ice a foot thick, 
 and skating is an amusement. Have you ice in your 
 country ? We replied that we had every variety of cli- 
 mate in America, the United States, extending through as 
 many degrees of latitude as the celestial empire ; and on 
 the northern rivers they sported with their horses and 
 sleighs, while in the far south ice is never known. 
 
 I know not that our friend was incredulous, with the 
 prevalent ideas of his nation as to the extent of their own 
 empire in contrast with all other lands, but having been 
 born at Canton, where ice is seldom or never seen, and 
 experiencing the cold weather at Peking, probably led 
 him to the remark he made, as if the facts stated might 
 be curious to us, if our country were situated within a 
 torrid zone. 
 
 My dark and tight dress, in contrast with his own gos- 
 samer and flowing robes of light and rich grass-cloth, 
 seemed to strike him as uncomfortable, and he asked if I 
 did not suffer from them. 
 
 I rightly complimented the rich Chinese on the superi- 
 ority, both in the quality of the material and taste in the 
 fashion, of the Chinese as to his costume for this climate 
 over our own ; but ours were for a cooler latitude. No 
 one can long have accustomed himself to the costume of 
 a Chinese gentleman, and not give it the preference to our 
 own for a warm climate. It is more graceful as well as 
 comfortable, in its flowing folds and gracefully loose pro- 
 portions. 
 
 We had lingered as long as politeness would allow ; 
 and kissing the little girl and boy, we took our leave of 
 
146 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 this akeady successful aspirant for official and literary 
 rank, as he bowed us politely down the narrow court, 
 passing several of the well-dressed females of the house- 
 hold, who had placed themselves at the different doors or 
 windows to catch a glimpse at the foreigners as they left 
 the grounds. My estimate of the refinement and courtesy 
 of the higher class of the Chinese was very favorable, in 
 this interview with the affluent son of Tingqua. His 
 personal appearance was very fine his age, probably 
 about twenty-eight. His manners were sufficiently digni- 
 fied, easy, familiar, and graceful at once securing your 
 respect, and intuitively impressing you with the assurance 
 that you are in the presence of a well-bred gentleman, 
 who would be at his ease in any society, and grace its 
 circles. 
 
 On our return to the hong we found the water to have 
 retired, which was so high when we commenced our stroll, 
 owing to the freshet now in the river, that we left the door 
 in a boat, and were borne at several places on our course 
 on the proffered backs of the celestials. Otherwise our 
 excursion might have cost us wet feet, a thing of little 
 consequence to their unhosed insteps. 
 
 DR. PARKER AND THE OPHTHALMIC HOSPITAL. 
 
 Dr. Parker, in his benevolent practice, in connection 
 with the Ophthalmic Hospital, has secured unbounded 
 confidence among the Chinese, who look upon him as 
 something superior to humanity, in connection with the 
 many cures he has effected, and operations he has per- 
 formed. " The Chinese think him," said one of their lin- 
 guists to me, with a solemn air, " all same as one Josh." 
 I had ample opportunity to witness the doctor's popularity, 
 and the impression he has made, as I walked with him 
 through the streets. He was often recognised, and an 
 undertone of respect would now and then be heard among 
 the crowd, saying, " The good heart." " The doctor who 
 cures blind eyes." " The doctor with the pitiful heart." 
 " The no cash doctor ;" alluding to the circumstance that 
 Dr. P. takes no pay for his cures and practice. And the 
 doctor's large hands, too, seem here to attract very gene- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 147 
 
 ral attention, which (the noblesse of the west notwith- 
 standing) seem not only to ennoble our benevolent physi- 
 cian, but tend to add profoundness to the almost supersti- 
 tious veneration with which they regard his person. 
 " What hands !" the less instructed in decorum, as the 
 crowd gathers around, sometimes exclaim, in surprise and 
 astonishment, as if he were indeed of the race of the gods 
 they worship, which are in all their temples represented 
 in their huge proportions. And the amiable physician 
 hesitates not to let them compare their own tiny lingers 
 and palms with his, when their curiosity has surprised 
 from them the ejaculation. 
 
 The hospital building was closed during the difficulties ; 
 and while Dr. P. had private assurances of the high es- 
 teem with which he was regarded by the Chinese au- 
 thorities, no open demonstration of partiality could be 
 allowed to come before the observation of the foreign 
 community. His hospital therefore was closed his pa- 
 tients retired and he himself was cloistered within the 
 limits that held the other members of the foreign commu- 
 nity sharing with them their weal and wo. It is hoped 
 and believed that Dr. Parker will be able, in a few days, 
 again to enter on his benevolent action, which has so far 
 been attended with rich and even surprising success. At 
 the time I write, Dr. P. has a private communication, ex- 
 pressing it to be the wish of the commissioner, Lin, the 
 man who is acting with so much energy in the Chinese 
 difficulties, to consult him, and he may the next hour re- 
 ceive a request that he will make him a visit at his sta- 
 tion, where he is now attending to the destruction of the 
 seized opium. 
 
 It would not be uninteresting to the reader, were I to 
 give here some of the cases which have come under the 
 treatment of Dr. Parker, and have led to so high an ap- 
 preciation of his benevolence and skill among the Chinese, 
 as well as among all who know him. Indeed, his reputa- 
 tion " as the foreign physician who cures all things, and 
 particularly restores sight to the blind," has spread through- 
 out the empire, more or less, and has drawn from various 
 parts, and from the capital itself, patients seeking for re- 
 lief; and in some instances have they been desirous, in the 
 
148 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 possession of the sought-for blessing, to do him homage, 
 and to proclaim his worth and virtues throughout the em- 
 pire. The Chinese hong-merchants and the magistrates 
 of Canton have indirectly countenanced the establishment 
 of the hospital ; and a number of official characters have 
 found relief for their maladies, and regained a sight long 
 lost, from the good foreigner ; while more than six thou- 
 sand patients, during the three years of the existence of 
 the establishment, have been recipients of its benevolent 
 intentions, and the doctor's unremitted and generous and 
 successful efforts. The scenes, many of them, which Dr. 
 Parker has described to me as having occurred during his 
 practice, have been of much interest, and developed much 
 of the Chinese character, while affording incident of the 
 most novel kind to the eye of the foreigner ; and nowhere 
 else, in the absence of the circumstances and the customs 
 of the Chinese, could such incident meet him. 
 
 A few facts, says Dr. Parker, will illustrate the eager- 
 ness of the people to avail themselves of the benefits of the 
 hospital. When it was the practice to admit patients 
 daily, I observed some of them, with lanterns, with which 
 they left their homes at two or three o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, in order that they might be at the hospital rooms in 
 season. When the days of admission were limited, they 
 sometimes came the preceding evening, and remained all 
 night, that they might secure a ticket in the morning. 
 And there have been applicants from other parts of the 
 province as well as from this vicinity. Numbers, from 
 Nanking and Peking, have called. Several tea merchants 
 from the north, or their friends, have been treated. When 
 obliged to close the doors against new admissions, per- 
 sons from a distance would avail themselves of the influ- 
 ence of some foreign gentleman or hong-merchant to in- 
 tercede for them. With but rare exceptions, unqualified 
 confidence has been manifested by the patients. A woman 
 of the Mohammedan faith, sixty-five years of age, who 
 had a cataract of both eyes, when I expressed a doubt 
 whether she could bear to have my knife put into her 
 eye, replied, " If you like, you may take them both out 
 and put them in again." Another patient had been blind 
 for forty years, but on couching the cataract I found the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 149 
 
 retina still sensible to the light. A few days after, when 
 1 visited him, he seemed affected by the kindness shown 
 him, and stroking down his long white beard that reached 
 to his bosom, he said, " I am now old, and my beard is 
 long and heavy, but never before have I seen or heard of 
 such a man." He then enumerated the several favors 
 which I had done him, and added in conclusion, " You 
 must be a divine person" An old Tartar general who 
 had been some time in the hospital, and who was operated 
 upon for a cataract with which he was afflicted in both 
 eyes, as he was leaving, remarked, " I am now eighty 
 years old, my beard is very long ; (reaching to his breast ;) 
 I have been in office forty years ; I have been in all the 
 eighteen provinces of the empire, but never before have 
 known a man that does the things that you perform, and 
 for which you receive no reward. O, what virtue ! the 
 nation's great arm. Under heaven there is no other like 
 you." And more in the same adulatory strain. 
 
 The following is one among the cases which have been 
 treated by Dr. Parker. 
 
 " A young lady from Nanking, Le Awoo, aged nine- 
 teen, suffered from a disease of the left eye from her infan- 
 cy. At this time a white spot with a fleshy excrescence 
 covered the apex of the cornea, and the blood-vessels were 
 enlarged and passed over the cornea. She was the eldest 
 daughter of a silk merchant. The father was informed 
 that the eye at least might be prevented from becoming 
 worse, and perhaps the vision be improved. He said he 
 confided the case to my care had he not confidence, he 
 should not have applied. By repeated applications of 
 lunar caustic the fleshy excrescence was destroyed ; the 
 blood-vessels were divided at the union of the cornea and 
 sclerotica ; the general health was attended to. and after 
 applying leeches to the temples a blister was ordered. 
 New granulations filled up the depression in the cornea 
 made by the caustic The blood-vessels of the cornea 
 became indistinct and the sight improved, and at a little 
 distance a stranger could scarcely perceive that it differed 
 from the other eye. Just before the term of the hospital 
 closed, the father and two daughters came to take a final 
 leave, bringing presents, which were declined, saying that 
 
150 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 it was abundant reward that the treatment of his daughter 
 had been successful ; but he would not take them away. 
 The patient and her little -sister, aged thirteen years, then 
 came into the room, attended by a servant with a large 
 crimson blanket. The first impression was, this is a part 
 of the present. It was however spread at my feet, and 
 the two young ladies knelt upon it. They were authori- 
 tatively told that it was not required nor permitted to 
 Kow-tow. They heeded it not ; and though I took the 
 eldest by the collar to prevent it, both succeeded in bring- 
 ing their heads twice to the floor. This was done in the 
 presence of a large assembly of patients and several Eu- 
 ropeans. The father was dressed like an officer, and his 
 daughters wore splendid silk gowns, with the richest 
 embroidery." 
 
 In the thousands of cases which have come under the 
 doctor's treatment, many opportunities, of course, must 
 have occurred, and which the consideration of the grand 
 end at which Dr. P. is aiming in all that he does, would 
 lead him to improve, for turning the attention of the Chi- 
 nese to the true system of religion in opposition to the fan- 
 tasies and superstitions of the worshipper of Confucius, 
 Budha, and the thousand paternal gods of the celestial em- 
 pire. And when patients, with hearts overflowing with 
 gratitude, would have bowed in adoration before him, he 
 has raised them, and with the spirit of the humble Chris- 
 tian, pointed them to the true God, to whom only power 
 and praise belong. And even when success, in the advance 
 of the disease, could neither be expected, or relief be giv- 
 en, opportunities have offered when the disappointed pa- 
 tients have seen how truly the sympathy of a Christian 
 physician has been given them, as they have been pointed 
 to the Being who hath pity for the sorrowful. Such a case 
 we see in a patient by the name of Akeen, of whom Dr. 
 P. remarks, that he gave him but little encouragement 
 when he came to the hospital, and the day he dismissed 
 him, after kind treatment, which disclosed that the organs 
 of his eyes were so far destroyed that light again could 
 never be enjoyed, "the patient manifested much gratitude," 
 said the doctor, " for what had been done in the improve- 
 ment of his health and for the attempt to restore sight. It 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 151 
 
 was a remark of one of my respected medical preceptors 
 to his students, that when the materia medica of earth failed, 
 they might yet point their patients to that of heaven. I 
 have experienced this satisfaction in the case of this young 
 man. His eyes suffused with tears as I took him by the 
 hand ; and with several Chinese listening, told him through 
 my interpreter, of the world in which he may see, though 
 never again on earth that in heaven none were blind, none 
 deaf, none sick. I also endeavored to point out the way 
 for him to find admittance there." 
 
 A volume of interest might be written in connection 
 with Dr. Parker's action at Canton. But further space 
 cannot be given to it here. Dr. P. is every way the per- 
 son desirable for the location and the calling he occupies 
 and pursues. 
 
 On the 16th, the day succeeding my arrival in Canton, 
 being Sunday, I preached in the British chapel of the 
 Company's hong. The American missionaries supply the 
 pulpit here, generally, the chapel having been courteously 
 tendered them for that purpose. Dr. Parker,! believe, has 
 the charge of the services, and officiates regularly, or al- 
 ternately with Rev. Mr. Bridgman, when Mr. B. is here. 
 The Prayer Book of the Protestant Episcopal church of 
 America is used, with a few variations, to meet the pecu- 
 liarities of the mixed community. For instance, in the 
 prayer for the President of the United States, the word 
 " Kings and all others in authority" is substituted. The 
 gentlemen, not episcopal in their orders, generally use, 
 besides the service thus slightly altered, an extemporane- 
 ous prayer before the sermon. The Rev. Messrs. Hand- 
 son and Lockwood, when at Canton, officiated, in their 
 turn, in the same chapel. 
 
 TEMPLE OF LONGEVITY. 
 
 On Monday I visited, in company with Dr. Parker, the 
 Temple of Longevity, one of the principal establishments 
 of the Chinese Budhist priests. The priests welcomed us, 
 Dr. P. being already known to some of them. They con- 
 ducted us through the buildings of the Temple; from the 
 top of the main one, a fine view presents itself of the great- 
 
 40 
 
152 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 er part of the suburbs of the city the city walls, near which 
 the temple is situated and an extended view into the city 
 within the walls. 
 
 At the covered portal, forming an entrance into the court, 
 within which rises the principal and centra] building, and 
 within a recess guarded by bars, are four statues, two on 
 either side, larger than life. On the toe of one of these sub- 
 lime personages, sitting with one foot elevated, quite a num- 
 ber of Chinese labels were displayed, among other things 
 proffering to give his worshippers toe-nails when lost. 
 The opposite deities as confidently assured their votaries 
 that they would secure to them children of either sex, as 
 they might desire the one proffering male, the other fe- 
 male heirs. But both of them, I presume, on the condition 
 that the seekers of such gifts should reward the priests 
 who served at the altars of their godships, for their trouble 
 of throwing the tablets for them, and divining with their 
 bamboo-labels and sybil-leaves. 
 
 In the principal hall of the floor-rooms, the god, eleva- 
 ted on an altar some feet from the floor, was canopied 
 around by the usual fixtures, with openings for the expo- 
 sure of his most comfortable and gilded person on the four 
 sides of the altar. Incense urns, artificial flower stands, 
 and taper-supporters occupied the front of the altar where 
 the josh-sticks are burned, the flowers placed, and the ta- 
 pers lighted and melted away. 
 
 The temples of the Chinese, which are built regularly, 
 are two stories high, a piazza running quite around each 
 story, from which you enter the sacred rooms constituting 
 the centre of the building. The upper hall of this temple 
 is a spacious room, occupying the whole area of the sec- 
 ond floor ; and in the centre of this upper hall sits the 
 complacent, fat, and dimple-cheeked, corpulent, cross-leg- 
 ged, gilded, smiling, almost laughing god of longevity a 
 perfect contradiction in his air, of what one of my early 
 instructors would have guessed, whom I have more than 
 once heard, with an oblique allusion to a certain class of 
 persons, and w r ith a spice of sarcasm on the lip, repeat the 
 words " slumbering fat." His deityship to-day was wide 
 awake. And there was a most expressive air of comfort 
 about the youthful-looking fat old gentleman, of whom, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 153 
 
 should an earthquake or any other convulsion of nature 
 happen to shake from his six or seven feet elevation, it 
 would puzzle his best serving priest, with all the revela- 
 tions he may have received in connection with his divin- 
 ing apparatus, to declare which way said youthful and 
 fleshy old gentleman would roll along the floor whether 
 from head to feet and from feet to head, and from head to 
 feet again, or like a pipe of wine, upon his bulging sides. 
 As for such legs as said old gentleman has, with all their 
 hundred weights of muscle, comfortable indeed for sitting 
 a la Turk, rather a la Budha, they are altogether too duck- 
 like to be thought of in any necessity of support for such 
 a rotundity of person as this godship of longevity, or to 
 be taken into any account which would estimate the 
 chances as to the probable course which his godship would 
 roll, in case of his being thrown from his present most com- 
 fortable attitude of rest. 
 
 This temple is apparently the most popular one, and cer- 
 tainly on the largest and most respectable scale of any of 
 the temples situated on the Canton side of the river. And 
 this upper hall of the Temple of Longevity affords a con- 
 venient and spacious apartment for the grandees to assem- 
 ble in, on their festive days of particular worship. The 
 god has lately been repaired, and his decayed person of 
 antiquity has given place for the newly gilded statue, in the 
 shape of a Chinese Lambert. The development of mus- 
 cles in this specimen of wood, cut into something of a form, 
 resembling the figure of a man, is superior to any thing 
 else in the way of statuary that I have seen in the Chinese 
 temples, and is not very discreditable to the artist, when 
 the idea designed to embody in wood is considered. The 
 figure, at once, strikes the visiter as a representation of a 
 comfortable portly old gentleman in retirement, living upon 
 the abundance of this life's good things, and as much good 
 ale as would render his yet unwrinkled cheeks rosy, and 
 his corpulent person a very prayer itself that one may have 
 rest. A smooth-faced and portly young priest, who ac- 
 companied us through the buildings, seemed alike enough 
 to the gilded god in his proportions and physiognomy, 
 though in miniature, to have been a near kin, or else haa 
 sat as the model for the statue ; and only wanted size and 
 
154 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 age to be its fac-simile. He was a good-natured, full- 
 cheeked, shaven-headed priest, that flourished, in the best 
 keeping, as his rotund person seemed to declare. 
 
 We were joined by a thinner and taller member of the 
 body, while we were admiring the prospect from the upper 
 verandah of the temple, which, with its roofed and spacious 
 area, extends quite around the building. He was in black, 
 and is the principal of the establishment, more dignified 
 than the other, and at times not less communicative. They 
 both accompanied us through the grounds, which are not 
 in the best keeping ; and the abundance of a species of 
 cresses, in appearance covering almost the whole surface 
 of the water-ponds within the premises, gives a stagnant 
 aspect to these otherwise ornamental reservoirs. In these 
 ponds flocks of ducks were sailing, feeding upon this weed 
 upon the surface of the water ; and here, as elsewhere 
 throughout all the Chinese temples and the private resi- 
 dences of extent, the gorgeous and sacred water-lily pre- 
 vails, in porcelain pots. We were conducted to a small 
 Square room, fronting the most pleasant part of the grounds, 
 and tea was served, with a tray of sweetmeats of various 
 kinds, each species of fruit occupying its division on the 
 same waiter, containing the lichee a very agreeable dried 
 fruit, and yet more delicious in its undried state dates, 
 dried melon-seeds, ginger, citron, Chinese olives, beech- 
 nuts, and last, but not least peculiar, as they seemed to us 
 of uncelestial tastes, roasted beans. We chatted for a 
 while, as we sipped the uncreamed and unsugared tea, and 
 partook of the variety of the waiter resting upon the cen- 
 tre-table about which we sat. It was inquired of the ab- 
 bot (we use terms known to designate stations with titles 
 unknown, as this person was at the head of some one hun- 
 dred priests of the establishment) if there were nunneries 
 embraced in their system. He answered no ; and I know 
 not the idea which seemed pleasantly to strike him, which 
 however led to the remark, as he placed his hand upon the 
 head of a fine-looking boy beside him, some twelve or thir- 
 teen years of age, " Budha sent me down this shaver in 
 an egg about a month since, which produced him." The 
 sweetmeats were very fine, some of them, and I so re- 
 marked complimentary, but the abbot replied that " they 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 155 
 
 were very indifferent," like some peculiar persons I have 
 known, who greatly regretted that they had not that which 
 was better to give, when they were giving, as they knew, 
 the very best in the world. 
 
 We returned through the streets, being the lions of the 
 way, and " Fanqui, Fanqui," ringing ever and anon in our 
 ears, while a mob of children, both small and grown, sur- 
 rounded us, arid the women rushed to their screened door- 
 ways to catch, as we passed, a view of the foreigners, which 
 seemed to be an era in their experience, and gleeful now 
 as unfrequent, as I had opportunity occasionally to observe, 
 while I lingered a short distance in the rear ; and the curi- 
 ous sex, in the indulgence of their inquisitive propensity, 
 suffered themselves to be drawn half way out beyond their 
 screens in their gaze after the receding stranger, and ap- 
 parently to the great surprise at their own presumption as 
 they found another " Fanqui' almost confronting them as 
 he came up so unexpectedly and near to them; and in 
 again to their inner apartment they would dash, as rapidly 
 as their small feet and waddling gait would allow them. 
 
 The whole community are evidently on the qui vive 
 at this, moment, in connection with the late difficulties 
 between the foreigners and the Chinese authorities and 
 mobs. 
 
 We are the first of the foreigners who have ventured 
 far into the suburbs since the shutting up of the streets 
 which lead into the square of the factories. On my arrival 
 at Canton, it was not deemed prudent to wander too much 
 about town, but still it was believed a few days more 
 would secure as much freedom to the foreign residents as 
 they had ever enjoyed. For the present, however, the 
 small boats are prohibited from passing on the river ; and 
 the pleasure boats belonging to the different factories here, 
 are seen lying within the paling in front of the factories, 
 where they have been placed by the Chinese authorities 
 since the enclosures of the vacant lots have been made 
 between the river and the hong houses. 
 
 These areas in front of the foreign factories will form 
 pleasant promenades by and by, so soon as they become 
 coated with grass. But the boats alluded to are mostly 
 neglected, having been included in the estimate of the 
 
 40* 
 
156 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 English of their losses, and which, with the millions of 
 other damages they have, or think they have received, 
 will be demanded, including the amount of the opium 
 which they have resigned to the Chinese authorities, and 
 which demand either the Chinese will have to meet, or 
 suffer reprisals (so we think the future will say) upon their 
 commerce, and perhaps yield to the urgent request of 
 British arms a portion of their territory. 
 
 TEMPLE AT HANAN. 
 
 It was doubtful, in the present circumstances of the 
 times, whether I should be able to get over the river to 
 Hanan to visit the celebrated temple there, deemed the 
 most magnificent in the southern part of the empire, if not 
 equalling any within the celestial kingdom. So writers 
 have spoken of it ; and persons who have enjoyed oppor- 
 tunities assure me that it is a very creditable specimen of 
 the best order of the Budhist temples of China. 
 
 The story of its present prosperous circumstances, and 
 the high esteem with which it has been held, is this: After 
 the success of the first Tartar invader, his son was sent to 
 subdue the remaining opponents of the usurper, who held 
 out against his authority in the south. The general ar- 
 rived with his conquering army, and entirely subdued the 
 south Canton, and entered the town of Hanan with the 
 intention, agreeably to the royal mandate, to put to the 
 sword, without discrimination, the opposers of the con- 
 queror's power. An attempt upon an invulnerable priest 
 of the temple at Hanan caused the upraised arm of the 
 prince, who, in person, was about to take the priest's life, 
 to be withered in the attempt. The priest restored the 
 use of the arm to the astonished general, and petitioned 
 that the lives of all the people of Hanan, on condition of 
 submission to the new power, should be spared. This 
 was done. The prince petitioned his royal father. The 
 inhabitants, to evince their gratitude, brought gifts to the 
 temple, and royal beneficence enriched it, and the humble 
 establishment rose into distinction, as one of the most 
 richly endowed temples of the kingdom. 
 
 Dr. Parker's popularity among the Chinese and favorable 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 157 
 
 repute with the mandarins here would secure the privi- 
 lege of crossing to Hanan if it could be obtained by any 
 one. His wish was mentioned to a linguist, with the as- 
 surance that we did not wish to create any " bobbery," 
 but very peacefully to visit Hanan and then to return. 
 The linguist said he would see, and came back the next 
 morning with the assurance that the boat of one of the 
 hong merchants, whom he was requested to consult, would 
 be ready for us immediately after dinner, which would 
 allow of our reaching the temple in time to see the priests 
 at their worship or afternoon vespers, at about half-past 
 four. 
 
 A number of the officers from the Columbia and John 
 Adams had arrived during the week, and an invitation 
 was extended to them by Dr. Parker to accompany us. 
 
 We crossed the river and were soon at the entrance to 
 the court of the temple. The first portal was character- 
 ized by two large statues, in better keeping and on a still 
 larger scale than those before seen, being some fifteen feet 
 in height. As you pass into the court you traverse a fine 
 wide pavement flagged with granite slabs and leading up 
 the gradual ascent to the portal, which forms the entrance 
 into the second court within which the various buildings 
 of the temple are placed. It is a spacious area which is 
 inwalled, and passing the portal, with two immense statues 
 on either side of the entrance within their bowers, still 
 larger than the custodes at the portal of the outer court, 
 you advance by a gradual ascent to the main temple, 
 spacious, with its upper and lower hall surrounded with 
 its verandahs. The priests were already at their mystic 
 vespers within the lower hall, a spacious apartment, with 
 the altar of their Budha nearer to the furthest-ill wall than 
 the front, but around which they were moving in solemn 
 and monotonous chant of the sacred name of their god. 
 Again they rested in front of the altar, while one of their 
 number performed the three times three knockings of the 
 head upon the floor, and the chant continuing in the most 
 monotonous under and even tone of " Fuh-o-me-ta-to o- 
 me-ta-to-Fuh," I ever heard. Again they marched to the 
 same monotonous sound as they circled the altar, with 
 the palms of their hands pressed together, and held, with 
 
158 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the fingers upward, against their breast, while a string of 
 beads rested between the thumbs and the edges of the hand. 
 They were a curious spectacle, robed in yellow garments 
 most of them, the rest in black, with shaven heads, and 
 faces as solemn as if the bell which one of their number 
 struck to mark their time, were the death-knell, or funeral 
 requiem recited in anticipation of their own obsequies, 
 which some spirit had told them would occur on the 
 morrow. 
 
 A priest showed us through the different divisions of 
 the buildings, one of the halls containing at either end 
 twelve gilded statues larger than life, some with black 
 beards, some with red beards, some with no beards at all. 
 In the hands of some were the instruments of war, in the 
 hands of others, instruments of peace; in others, the sword, 
 the spear, the hatchet, the knife, the rose, the palm, the 
 harp, together representing the ancient sages to whom 
 the hall is dedicated, with veneration and worship. The 
 hall is otherwise hung with tablets, the sages occupying 
 their places within a glass partition at either end of the 
 room, and the central altar of the hall arranged in front of 
 the god with the usual paraphernalia of the censer, the 
 flower-vase, and the taper-stand for the consuming of 
 josh-sticks, holding the fading flowers, and the light from 
 the melting wax. 
 
 All in life is marked with change, and decay is stamped 
 on all that is material. What a burlesque, I thought as I 
 stood in the Temple of Longevity, was the crumbled god 
 who offered long years to his votaries, while he could not 
 preserve his own person from the dust, but had lately 
 been supplanted by a new image, and yet still confided in 
 by a deluded and unthinking people ! And here, as I stood 
 looking on these statues and the god within the main 
 altar, how cold seemed the religion that cherished such a 
 system ! The most it promised was, that when the soul 
 left the body it might become the resident of some animal, 
 and again pass through a series of other animals, in end- 
 less transmigrations; and as its chief blessedness, be finally 
 absorbed into the Budha they worshipped. Blessed reli- 
 gion of Jesus Christ ! thou dost open before the wishful 
 spirit that longs after immortality, consistent hopes, meet- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 159 
 
 ing its wants, and pointing out the way to a blissful state 
 of endless life. The body may go back to its mother 
 dust, but the spirit shall enter on its course of thought 
 and action suitable to its being, in a state where it shall 
 enjoy the changeless friendship of its God, and of the good 
 and the holy, in the happy residence of the ransomed, the 
 intellectual, moral, and immortal spirits. God give me 
 gratitude in the possession of his Word and an education 
 in its precepts. 
 
 There was nothing of interest about these figures to the 
 eye of one who has formed any just notions of the natural 
 developments of the human form. The immense statues 
 at the portals are huge monsters of beings, neither divine 
 nor human, and convey no positive sentiment save that of 
 power and anger, which is the result of their hugeness 
 and paint. 
 
 There was, however, one tasteful thing within the Hall 
 of the Sages, and it graces the spot wherever it may be 
 seen, for beautiful nature is always lovely. I allude to a 
 large vase of natural flowers, freshly gathered and placed 
 upon the altar of the god. Without the permission of the 
 oracle, but with the consent of one of his votaries, I 
 plucked a beautiful flower from the gorgeous bouquet, as 
 a thing that seemed to rebuke, with its soft loveliness, the 
 rough features of ugliness and disproportion everywhere 
 seen around, and now would do the kind office of soothing 
 a restless sensibility that ever attends me, on the per- 
 ception of unfitness in the combination of things or cir- 
 cumstances around me. 
 
 There is one curiosity odd enough about these premises 
 of the temple of Hanan. In one part of the court there 
 is a pen for some dozen fat hogs, kept with a sacred re- 
 spect for their lives and good health and luxurious living. 
 More in keeping I thought it would have been had their 
 swine-ships been attaches to the Temple of Longevity, so 
 nearly allied they seemed to be in proportions to the cor- 
 pulent knight of that establishment. But here they were, 
 and most comfortable specimens of the pork species they 
 certainly are, those twelve hogs. They die not, so far as 
 I learned, they were too lazy, or too dignified, or too 
 wilful to rise at our presence, though proper consideration 
 
160 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ought to be had to the usual manners of that species of 
 animal, when treating of their responsibilities on the re- 
 ception of visiters, knowing that their unsanctified race, 
 without these consecrated enclosures, act ever as a con- 
 tradiction and exception to that otherwise universal law 
 of motion, that a body moves in the line of direction in 
 which the face is impressed ; for a sailor well knows, that 
 to get a pig on board ship he must seize his tail and 
 pull him in an opposite direction. But, the laws of motion 
 apart, these swine (perhaps there were but eleven) have 
 a very comfortable house; the premises are kept clean, 
 and they themselves are fed, until, had they ever read 
 Shakspeare, they might cry out " Hold enough !" They 
 retain their incumbent position as long as they choose, 
 but, that they occupy a standing attitude, the length of 
 time they would choose, admits of a question as it 
 seems doubtful if such small legs could very long sup- 
 port such round hundreds of fat. My own opinion is 
 that they are not free agents in this matter, and, there- 
 fore, as it is said, " necessitas non habet legs" I con- 
 clude that they yield, as good Budhists, to the law of 
 necessity, when they can stand no longer, and submit 
 themselves, as quiet fatalists, to the favorite doctrine of 
 most of the Orientals, and not less especially of the Chinese. 
 It is thought, I believe, that however immortal may be 
 the lives of these novel specimens of " otium cum digni- 
 tate," that, occasionally, one of their number disappears, 
 and as often is supplied by the lay devotees, without 
 charge to the fraternity. 
 
 We were conducted to the reception hall, after we had 
 gone the round of the buildings, through the grounds, 
 flower-garden, or an apology for what had once probably 
 been such when the grounds were in better keeping, and 
 saw at the extremity of the premises the reservoir, where 
 the ashes of the priests are consigned, after they have been 
 gathered from the funeral pyre. Here the principal priest 
 met us, and with considerable urbanity endeavored to 
 make our visit a pleasant one. His apparent amiable de- 
 sire commended him to our kind wishes, and Dr. P. desired 
 A-hoy to say to him, that when he crossed the river to Can- 
 ton, he would be pleased to see him. " Oh no, Meester 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 161 
 
 Parker," replied A-hoy, as he hesitated to interpret the 
 courteous invitation to the abbot ; " you would never cease 
 to have him present, Meester Parker, if you once invite 
 him. Best first know him, then invite." The shrewd 
 young Chinese was laughed at, and the invitation was 
 turned into thanks for the priest's politeness, with assurances 
 that we had been greatly gratified. And notwithstanding 
 A-hoy's pre-admonition, Dr. P. himself assured the abbot 
 that he had medicines, and with pleasure would supply 
 him with any, in case he should need, if he would call at 
 the American hong. The dark-robed Budhist seemed 
 much pleased, and indicated that he should not be late in 
 his application. 
 
 And that same A-hoy I shall never forget the peculiar 
 and exquisite smile that graced his fine features. It was 
 the perfection of effeminate loveliness, without detracting 
 from the manly features of the young Chinese. I know 
 not how he may be esteemed in his place, but I do know 
 that there was an interest of expression about his face 
 which would immortalize a sculptor to fix it in marble. 
 
 We returned to the boat and found that the hong mer- 
 chant, whose politeness had furnished us with his fine boat, 
 had provided a variety of fruits also, to await us on our 
 return to re-occupy it. We ate of the fruits ; and A-hoy 
 asked, " Will you have water, gen-tle-mens ?" Some of 
 the party accepted the finger-bowls and laved their hands. 
 " My master knows enough of foreign manners," said A- 
 hoy, "to get the bowls of water, but I shall have to remind 
 him the next time of the napkins." The not witless remark, 
 in the absence of the napkins, secured another approbative 
 smile to A-hoy, for the penetration he showed on the occa- 
 sion for which, in this one particular, by an oversight, he 
 had not provided. 
 
 We returned unscathed by pebbles or in any other way 
 molested, although we were the first of the " foreign devils" 
 who have presumed to venture abroad on the side of the 
 river opposite Canton, since the prohibitory measures which 
 confined the Fanqui to their factories. 
 
 There is legend connected with the origin of the city 
 of Canton, and all as veritable as the fictions associated 
 with the foundation of the seven-hill city, once the empress 
 
162 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of the western world, which boasts the twins Romulus and 
 Remus for its founders. But it would be of little interest 
 to follow the story-tellers from the period when the inhab- 
 itants of the " southern regions" first commenced to bear 
 their tribute of " crabs and frogs and snakes and crickets" 
 to the " son of heaven, who received homage from the four 
 quarters of the earth," up to the different epochs when, in 
 one dynasty, the young Canton bore the name of " the 
 martial city of the south ;" or in another, " the city of 
 rams," after five genii, robed in as many different colored 
 vestments, who are said to have entered the city on as many 
 different colored rams, which were enabled, notwithstand- 
 ing each bore in his mouth a stalk of grain having five 
 ears, to exclaim audibly to the people, 
 
 " May famine and dearth never visit your markets ;" 
 
 thus giving the additional titles of " the city of genii" and 
 " the city of grain" to the famous capital of the southern 
 province. It will rather suffice to note that the rebellious 
 people of the south yielded to the prowess of the northern 
 arms ; and after many alternations of discontent and sub- 
 mission, finally gave their adherence to the founder of the 
 Han dynasty, some two centuries earlier than our own 
 era. In the sixth century the provincial city had become 
 a regular mart for foreign commerce, carrying on a con- 
 siderable trade with Cochin-China and India ; and for its 
 protection against the assaults of the first, the city wall 
 was raised about the year 1060. Internal contentions 
 drenched the south in blood on the accession of the pew 
 dynasty in 1279; but commerce revived on the restora- 
 tion of quiet, and in 1300 "abundance of vessels," as wri- 
 ters narrate, " came to Canton." 
 
 The pioneer of European commerce to China was De 
 Androde, who reached Canton in 1517. Other adventurers, 
 from the different European states, soon succeeded ; and 
 the trade, through the alternations of reverses and pros- 
 perity as the result of the internal broils on the fall of one 
 and the rise of a new dynasty which make the empire of 
 China less a thing of quiet than some of the admirers of its 
 political economy suppose has risen progressively, until 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 103 
 
 in 1837 its exports have reached the annual amount of 
 nearly forty millions of dollars.* 
 
 WALL ABOUT CANTON. 
 
 The city wall is about six miles in length, and may be 
 traversed by a walk of little less than two hours at rather 
 a quick pace. It varies in its height according to the un- 
 evenness of the surface at its base, from twenty-five to 
 forty feet, and in width fifteen feet at its top, widening to 
 twenty-five at its base. Its composition is stone and brick 
 filled in with earth on the interior. There are sixteen 
 gates four passing through an inner wall and twelve 
 form ing entrances through the external bulwark, which runs 
 parallel, on the south, with the river, and winds circularly 
 back into the interior, resting on the brow of a hill in the 
 northern part of its circuit some two or three hundred feet 
 above the level of the river, which from this point it com- 
 mands, with a perfect view of the plain on which the city 
 is spread beneath it. " The gate of the five genii," " the 
 gate of eternal rest," " the gate of eternal purity," will 
 serve as a sufficient specimen of the names of these outlets 
 of a city of " the flowery nation," of a " flowery language ;" 
 and the " dragon street," " the flying dragon street," " the 
 martial dragon street," " the flowery street," " the golden 
 street," and " the golden flowery street," will more than 
 suffice for a specimen of the 1,000 and more or less ave- 
 nues of this inwalled emporium of commerce, containing a 
 population with its suburbs of 1,236,000, as estimated on 
 the most credible data ; and which, no one who has 
 walked through the crowded streets of Canton, gazed into 
 their one dense mass of shops, and viewed the fleet of 
 84,000 boats that float upon the stream in the neighbor- 
 hood, each with its family of man, wife, children, ducks, 
 geese, chickens, cooking utensils, chop-sticks and all, would 
 think of estimating that number less than 1,000,000 of 
 people. Surely it must be a blessing to the Chinese, as a 
 body, that they need no more household furniture than a 
 
 * In 1836-37, English Imports $34,900,662. Exports, 30,168,380. 
 In 1836-37, American Imports $3,678,696. Exports, 8,202,869. 
 
 41 
 
164 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 stool to sit upon, and a bowl and chop-sticks for their table 
 furniture, and a kettle for their cooking apparatus. Other- 
 wise, broad as is their empire, 360,000,000 of people would 
 cry out that the space is too narrow for us. As it is, a 
 family of a dozen Chinese of both sexes can make out 
 with a house of three rooms one for their eating hall ; 
 and the floating gentry of the boats, I suppose, content 
 themselves with but two equal divisions, in their water 
 palaces. 
 
 It would be occupying more space than I have designed 
 to appropriate to these volumes, were I to give the partic- 
 ulars which I have written in my manuscript, connected 
 with the government of the city of Canton its officers 
 and police and what to myself is of deeper interest, a 
 general notice of the system of literary examinations which 
 prevails throughout the Chinese empire. It is a system 
 commendable in its arrangement ; but when considered in 
 connection with the books perused by the candidates for 
 distinction in literary fame, affluence, and elevation in of- 
 fice, it presents a miserable course of education philoso- 
 phy, science, and geography alike being absent from it 
 and the highest perfection aimed at is but a successful 
 imitation of an affected style in composition, and a logic 
 which starts with false premises. 
 
 But oui ships have yet a long traverse to make in their 
 circuit of the globe, and I may not delay too long in the 
 provincial city of the south, or among the endless subjects 
 of interest associated with this peculiar people of the 
 celestial empire. 
 
 CHINESE POETRY. 
 
 POETRY is the language of nature, and nature exhibit- 
 ing herself in different circumstances. The American 
 Indian delights in the chase and the war-whoop ; and the 
 burden of his song is of war, as he dances around the war- 
 pole and shakes the scalps of his enemies, after his return 
 from the distant trail of his foe, whom he has left in his 
 blood. The revel grows louder, and the dance more 
 fierce, as the red chieftain narrates his deeds of triumph, 
 or the young warriors who have taken their first scalp 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 165 
 
 come forward to receive their war-name from the older 
 chiefs. 
 
 The Goth and the Vandal were not unlike the abori- 
 gines of the American forest, in developing their feelings 
 in rude song and music of the wild and heroic kind. 
 
 The refined nations of modern Europe, and the magnifi- 
 cent Grecian and Roman among the ancients, may all be 
 traced in their advance in civilization and the cultivation 
 of the arts and sciences and refinement of manners, in their 
 poetry. And while the ancients in their master- perform- 
 ances, sang of the deeds of heroic action, they left to mod- 
 ern times the developments of all the combinations of the 
 human heart, in its display of deep emotion and natural 
 action in connection with restless ambiiion, profound and 
 jealous love, and deeds correspondent to the universal pas- 
 sions of men. 
 
 We therefore should expect to find the poetry of the 
 Chinese, as we really do, characteristic of themselves. 
 They are essentially an agricultural people ; and their 
 whole system tends to quiescence, alike in their philosophy, 
 religion, and politics. Their philosophy inculcates the in- 
 fluencing of men by persuasion in argument, rather than 
 by force their religion embraces the sentiment, that the 
 destinies of men are woven indivisibly and irresistibly by 
 the fates and their principles of political economy require 
 unquestioned and unquestioning submission to the power 
 that rules. Patriotism with them is the inculcation of obe- 
 dience, by practice and precept, to the precedents of the 
 past religion is the veneration of a remembered ancestry, 
 and the preservation of their tombs, and the burning of 
 gold paper and garments to the manes of the departed 
 and fame of every kind, that is honorable in the estimation 
 of the Chinese, personal, political, present, and posthumous, 
 all depends not on originality of genius and acquisition of 
 true knowledge in the arts and sciences, and an indepen- 
 dent literature, but on a successful imitation of a false, 
 limited, past, but not obsolete standard of philosophy and 
 ethics, embraced in the collection of the " Four Books" 
 and the " Five Classics" of Confucius. To imitate these 
 in style to quote these in illustration to be guided by 
 these in action, and instructed by these in principle and 
 
166 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 successfully to produce these in argument, secures appro- 
 bation, admiration, and reward, and is the only path to 
 preferment and distinction. Hence it is, that the mind of 
 the Chinese is only imitative, and incapable of invention. 
 We look not then for excellence in poetry connected with 
 any thing like originality, where the standard itself is a 
 book of indifferent odes of the preceding ages, collected 
 by Confucius five hundred years before the Christian era, 
 and adhered to as the model of perfection and for imita- 
 tion ; and we justly conclude that the Chinese, for sixteen 
 centuries, have made little advance in the poetic art, 
 otherwise than in the smoothness of the rhythm, in the in- 
 creasing refinement of the nation. They have no epic 
 poem, and their tragedies are melo-dramas, which seldom 
 reach the deep-natural of intense passion; and as per- 
 formed on their bamboo stages, exhibit, at least to the 
 European eye, more of the burlesque and the masquerade, 
 than the natural scenes of dramatic life. I am aware that 
 some better qualified than myself to judge (their partiali- 
 ties aside) as to this branch of Chinese poetry, would dis- 
 sent from my opinion ; and only on one occasion, without 
 being fully aware of the scene I was about to witness, 1 
 had the opportunity of being present at the Chinese " Sing- 
 Song." The action of the players then seemed well to 
 comport with the wooden swords they used to do their 
 fatal deeds ; and of the thousand spectators, jammed en 
 masse to witness the performance, probably three-fourths 
 were incapable of appreciating a happy sentiment, and 
 manifested more pleasure at the regalia of the dresses and 
 the firing of the abundance of crackers than at the dra- 
 matic progress of the play. 
 
 But the Chinese are fond of flowers are a rural peo- 
 ple cultivators of the ground the emperor himself an- 
 nually, for the encouragement of agriculture, holding the 
 plough, that he may give the influence of his imperial 
 example to the empire all which, connected with the 
 system of literary examinations already alluded to, so cal- 
 culated to encourage a taste for literature, such as it is, 
 would lead us to expect that their best specimens of poetry 
 would be found in the descriptive, associated with calm 
 nature, as found in the painting of rural scenes, conveyed 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 167 
 
 in sententious thought. And such is the case. They 
 paint the garden the water-pond the lily the sacred 
 lotus, which fills their private grounds the ever occur- 
 ring peach-blossom and the plum, and their most plentiful 
 flower, the epidendrum ; while they applaud that rest of 
 which their own Confucius speaks with admiring par- 
 tiality, and which the Chinese looks to for his old age ; 
 and which certainly is grateful alike to every refined 
 mind, as the Latins have it, otiwn cum dignitate. 
 
 The measure of the Chinese poetry consists of different 
 feet, according to the number of characters which consti- 
 tute the line, varying from three to seven characters. 
 Each specimen is to be found in the Shee King, the book 
 of odes collected by Confucius, constituting one of the 
 classics, and which, I am informed, is being translated by 
 the Rev. Mr. Shuck into English, and, as soon as com- 
 pleted, will be published in America. Although rhyme 
 occasionally prevails, it is not frequent ; and owing to the 
 peculiar construction of the Chinese language, the sounds 
 are less perfect than words allow, which are formed of 
 alphabetical letters. The Chinese poetry, however, de- 
 pends principally for its contradistinction from prose, on 
 its regularly recurring rhythm, parallelism, and antithesis, 
 rendering it strikingly analogous in its construction to the 
 poetry of the Hebrews. 
 
 I am indebted to Mrs. Shuck, my missionary friend at 
 Macao, for several specimens of Chinese poetry. The neat 
 manuscripts in Chinese characters are beautiful specimens 
 of the written character. I copy the translation of a 
 single piece the original containing five Chinese charac- 
 ters in each line, and the piece itself composed of a stanza 
 of eight lines. 
 
 ON TAKING LEAVE OF A FRIEND. 
 
 " Ten years have elapsed since last we parted ; 
 And no sooner have we met, than we part again. 
 We bind ourselves by promises to renew this meeting, 
 But we shall never be so young as we are now. 
 The shadows of the passing cloud speedily vanish, 
 The falling leaf returns not to its branch ; 
 Should I fly like the wild bird to seek you in the south, 
 In what part of yon blue mountain shall we meet 1" 
 41* 
 
168 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 THE CHINESE LANGUAGE. 
 
 The Chinese language has been deemed a phenomenon 
 in philology ; and its formation, in its advance from its in- 
 fancy to its present magnificence and comparative merit, 
 as an oral and written medium of communication for three 
 hundred and sixty millions of people, seems to be regarded 
 as a matter of astonishment. On the contrary, so far as 
 a slight familiarity with its first principles will enable one 
 to judge, I should deem its construction to have been pre- 
 cisely as we would expect to be the origin of a written 
 language among a primitive people. The illiterate pea- 
 sant or huckster, unable to write, could yet draw hiero- 
 glyphics of straight and curved lines. And by way of 
 refreshing his recollection, had he an occasion to debit his 
 neighbor a cheese, he would naturally score upon the bark 
 of a tree or upon the door of his tent a circular mark ; and 
 if it chanced to be a grindstone instead of a cheese, he 
 would not forget to add a dot, for the sake of definiteness 
 and distinction, to the centre of the circle, all which first 
 attempts in the fine arts would be increased as necessity 
 and convenience required, and improved in their form as 
 the tyro-sketcher continued his practice. A combination 
 of these symbols becoming definitely associated with the 
 objects which they were used to represent, would at 
 length become the medium of communication between dif- 
 ferent individuals ; and, reduced to a written form, im- 
 prove in their shape as convenience for their rapid forma- 
 tion and agreeableness in their appearance to the eye 
 should suggest in their continued use. New symbols not 
 being readily found for every new idea, a combination of the 
 originally formed characters would naturally be suggested, 
 and eventually, the symbols or hieroglyphics becoming so 
 numerous, they would lose their visible resemblance to the 
 objects they were originally employed to represent, and at 
 length become mere arbitrary representatives of ideas. 
 
 Thus it precisely is, as it seems to me, with the hiero- 
 glyphic formation of the Chinese language. Their origi- 
 nal form, representing the idea of the sun, is a circle with 
 a dot in its centre ; the moon, by a crescent or segment 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 169 
 
 of a circle; a child, by something resembling the first 
 attempt in the nursery to draw a man ; morning, by the 
 sun's rising ; above, by a dot over a straight line ; below, 
 by a dot beneath a straight line. Advancing to the com- 
 bination of symbols, the sun and moon together mean 
 brightness ; two trees mean a forest ; two men seated 
 upon the ground represent the idea of sitting ; waved 
 lines, rivulets. And these symbolic representations of 
 ideas, a few of which are here alluded to, would be in- 
 creased ; and for the purpose of meeting the necessities 
 of a growing people and intercourse, a free combination 
 would take place, and the original characters be improved 
 upon, in the advance of refinement and taste, and yet more 
 particularly, for convenience and uniform appearance, as 
 the characters were used in writing ; and with the dis- 
 covery of the art of printing the characters would undergo 
 still a further modification for the beauty and agreeable 
 effect of the type or plates. This is seen in the fac-simile 
 below, illustrating the preceding remarks the upper line 
 exhibiting the original form of the Chinese character, the 
 lower one giving the form now used in their printing ; 
 and seen still more particularly in the plate further on, 
 exhibiting the improvement of the original form by the 
 beauty and uniformity of the character now in use. 
 
 o J ? -- 
 
 sun, moon, child, above, below, bright, forest. 
 
 3- 
 
 The greatest wonder in the history of all written lan- 
 guages is, that an alphabet of twenty-five letters, repre- 
 senting the elementary sounds of the voice, should ever 
 have been discovered, and remains yet a question if it 
 were not originally a gift direct from heaven. If however 
 it be a discovery of man, we should be led to conclude that 
 it would be a result of after-times, when a people had 
 become more philosophical and given to analysis ; and 
 that it would be the result of a cumbersome system of 
 hieroglyphics and arbitrary characters, precisely like that 
 
170 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 which we have presented to us in the pictorial language 
 of the Chinese, giving its literati to feel the necessity of 
 something by which the symbolic character of the lan- 
 guage might be simplified. And in the range of philoso- 
 phical analysis, there can be found no other example so 
 striking as the alphabet of articulation (save the ten Arabic 
 numerals) to illustrate the illimitable combination to which 
 a few simples, having their origin in nature, can be carried. 
 And the superiority of the alphabetic system to the sym- 
 bolical character of the Chinese, renders it not an improb- 
 able conjecture that, in the advance of philosophical litera- 
 ture in the East and the certainly to be expected advance 
 of Christianity, the language of the celestial empire will 
 one day, and not at a great time distant, be expressed in 
 an alphabetical character corresponding to the written 
 languages of the West. 
 
 But as it is, the Chinese character, in which their lan- 
 guage is embraced, is a magnificent structure when con- 
 sidered in its immense number of symbolic representa- 
 tions, which have now become arbitrary signs of ideas 
 rather than hieroglyphic characters ; and also, in view 
 of the extent of space over which the language has 
 spread and the number of people by whom it is spoken. 
 And notwithstanding it has been formed in a manner we 
 should deem the most natural, by a people advancing from 
 the rude state to that of high civilization, it becomes a won- 
 der in its solitary loneliness, in contrast with all other writ- 
 ten languages of the world, for its existence as a language 
 without an alphabet. The possibility of this at first seems 
 to the Western, from his usual mode of thinking, to be in- 
 credible, until he shall have become familiar with the prin- 
 ciples on which the Chinese characters have been formed. 
 As it is, there are some peculiarities which are curious and 
 interesting. 
 
 One particular character of the Chinese language, ex- 
 hibiting it strikingly in contradistinction with the Western 
 languages, is, that all its words are of one syllable. It is 
 true that there is often a coalescing of two or more vow- 
 el sounds, which give to the character, when reduced to 
 English orthography, the appearance of a dissylable or 
 polysyllable, and have it in the original enunciation. But 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 171 
 
 if this be recognised in the vowel sounds, then I do not 
 see why characters with certain elementary consonant 
 sounds, as ts, should not also be regarded as dissyllabic, 
 for there is here as distinctly an exhibition of two elemen- 
 tary articulations of the voice as in the case first supposed, 
 if not more so for tseen (t-seen) requires as distinctly the 
 enunciation of two elementary articulations of the voice 
 as tien. The effect of this monosyllabic form, were it not 
 for the different intonations given to the characters, would 
 be most monotonous, but with this variation of sound the 
 repetition of a lesson by the child at his daily task becomes 
 a song, containing more of the elements of true harmony 
 than I have been able to discover in the combinations of 
 any number of Chinese musical instruments. The mono- 
 syllabic character of the language may be seen by the fol- 
 lowing lines taken from the Trimetrical, and the Thousand- 
 character Classic, the first and third books put into the 
 hands of pupils in the elementary schools. Both of these 
 books are in measure the first being constituted with lines 
 of three characters each, the other with four characters 
 in each line. The Chinese read from the right to the left, 
 and from the top of the column downwards. The first 
 quotation contains five double lines from the Trimeter, the 
 second, eight lines of the Thousand-character Classic : 
 
 Fifth. 
 
 Fourth. 
 
 Third. 
 
 Second. 
 
 First. 
 
 
 Seih 
 
 Keaou 
 
 Kow 
 
 Sing 
 
 Jin 
 
 
 Mang 
 
 Che 
 
 Puh 
 
 Seang 
 
 Che 
 
 
 Moo 
 
 Taou 
 
 Keaou 
 
 Kin 
 
 Tsoo 
 
 
 Tsih 
 
 Kwei 
 
 Sing 
 
 Seih 
 
 Sing 
 
 
 Lin 
 
 E 
 
 Nae 
 
 Seang 
 
 Fung 
 
 
 Choo 
 
 Chuen 
 
 Tseen 
 
 Yuen 
 
 Shen 
 
 
 Eighth. 
 
 Seventh. 
 
 Sixth. 
 
 Fifth. 
 
 Fourth. Third. Second. 
 
 First. 
 
 Leuh 
 
 Jah 
 
 Tsew 
 
 Han 
 
 Shin 
 
 Jeih 
 
 Yu 
 
 Teen 
 
 Leu 
 
 Yu 
 
 Show 
 
 Lae 
 
 Suh 
 
 Yue 
 
 Chou 
 
 Te 
 
 Teaou 
 
 Ching 
 
 Tung 
 
 Shoo 
 
 Lee 
 
 Ying 
 
 Hung 
 
 Heuen 
 
 Yang 
 
 Suy 
 
 Tsang 
 
 Wang 
 
 Chang 
 
 Tsih 
 
 Hwang 
 
 Hwang 
 
172 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Another peculiarity of this singular language is, that all 
 its consonant terminations are in n and ng, yet without giv- 
 ing it a disagreeable nasal enunciation. 
 
 But the most important consideration in connection with 
 the Chinese language is the extent to which it is used as a 
 medium of written communication. The extent of the 
 empire, and the early non-intercourse of the separate but 
 subjugated states now constituting the Chinese domain, 
 has originated many idioms, and such a departure has 
 there been from the court standard of pronunciation, that 
 the colloquial use of the language in some of the provinces 
 is utterly unintelligible to another province. And yet the 
 characters used by all are the same. Another cause of 
 this departure from a common standard of pronunciation 
 results from the circumstance that the sound oi' each charac- 
 ter in the Chinese language must be learned by being heard 
 from an oral teacher, as the Chinese have no system in the 
 absence of an alphabet, to designate the sounds of their 
 characters. Still the written characters remain the same 
 in all the provinces, and are universally understood over 
 the empire, including 360,000,000; and adding to this num- 
 ber the inhabitants of islands peopled by Chinese, and oth- 
 ers who have the Chinese character as their written lan- 
 guage, we may estimate the number by whom this char- 
 acter is used at 400,000,000 of people. The illustration, 
 showing how the written character of the Chinese may be 
 understood by this vast mass of people, while they yet, in 
 many parts, are unable to make themselves understood in 
 conversation, is simple. The idea expressed by the Eng- 
 lish word man, in French is homme ; Spanish, uomo ; Lat- 
 in, homo ; Greek, av^w^o^ (anthropos) ; Hebrew, tix (ish); 
 Chinese, X O' 1 ' 71 )* ThisChinese character (jin) not being 
 formed upon the principle of sound, but as hieroglyphic, 
 addressed to the eye, might with equal propriety be pro- 
 nounced homme, uomo, homo, anthropos, or ish, as well as 
 jin, the present sound by which the Chinese distinguish 
 it. And if this same Chinese character entered into the 
 language of all these different nations, instead of their own 
 present words, and was called differently by the sounds 
 which each now use, for man, then the Greek would not 
 understand the Roman when he spoke the sound homo, nor 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 173 
 
 the Roman the Greek were he to use the sound anthropos ; 
 nor the Spaniard the French sound of homme. But all 
 having the character alike, though called by names of 
 different sounds, they would immediately understand each 
 other, should either of them take a pen and draw the char- 
 acter X O'wi). 
 
 A better illustration is derived from the Arabic numer- 
 als used in common by the different nations of Europe 
 and America. Were the American to use the word thir- 
 ty to the Spaniard, who calls the same numeral trenta, he 
 would not comprehend the American ; nor would the 
 Frenchman, who calls the same numeral trente. But ei- 
 ther of these persons, taking a pen and writing the num- 
 ber in the Arabic numeral 30, and all immediately com- 
 prehend it, although each called it by a different sound. 
 
 Thus it is with the Chinese. Though the idioms in the 
 various provinces throughout the vast empire differ as to 
 the pronunciation of their character, the character itself 
 remains fixed as to its form and meaning, and, addressed 
 to the eye as a written communication, it is intelligible to 
 all. The court pronunciation has been called the manda- 
 rin dialect. And as the candidates for promotion to offices 
 from all parts of the empire have to pass their literary ex- 
 aminations in the mandarin or court idiom, the mandarin 
 dialect is spoken by the literati universally, and most ex- 
 tensively, while this course of examination, in connection 
 with their unchanging classics, keeps the language itself 
 unchangable. 
 
 Here then we see the field that opens, through the Chi- 
 nese language, for influencing four hundred millions of 
 people, or nearly one half of the inhabitants of the globe. 
 The whole system of the nation's literary course is such 
 as would secure to a work, written to their taste and once 
 admitted to their empire, the most rapid and universal pe- 
 rusal. And a Christian classic, once introduced into their 
 triennial course of examinations, would imbue the nation 
 at once with its principles. It is a high point from which 
 the Christian missionary may gaze, amid every discourage- 
 ment, in anticipation of the day when his books, or cer- 
 tainly those who come after him who shall have enjoyed 
 the assistance derived from his labors, shall find the way 
 
174 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 into the hands of the reading part of the people of such 
 an extended nation, and, may be, form the classic which 
 shall become the means of giving this civilized but idola- 
 trous and comparatively unintelligent people, a better lit- 
 erature, science, and, above all, the happy institutions and 
 the immortal hopes of the blessed religion of Jesus Christ. 
 
 There are no inflections in the use of the Chinese charac- 
 ter in composition, the nouns, verbs, and particles remain- 
 ing invariably the same ; and the various sense of these 
 symbolical characters must be fixed by the position they 
 occupy in the forming of the sentence. Syntax, therefore, 
 is unknown, according to its application to alphabetic lan- 
 guages where there are changes in the termination of 
 nouns and conjugation of verbs and the variation of adjec- 
 tives for the expression of their different degrees of com- 
 parison and agreement. Grammar, connected with the 
 Chinese language, therefore, can only be a treatise of rhet- 
 oric, exhibiting the best usages of classical writers, and 
 other elucidations, for the formation of the best style in the 
 use and arrangement of unchangeable and unchanging but 
 definite and significant characters. 
 
 There are six different styles of character, more or less 
 varying from each other, now in use among the Chinese, 
 which are exhibited in the opposite plate. 
 
 The first is the most ancient style after the original 
 hieroglvphics, and by Europeans is called the seal charac- 
 ter. 
 
 The second is the style of official attendants, as formerly 
 used by writers in the public offices, and thence derives 
 its name. It is now used in inscriptions and prefaces of 
 books. 
 
 The third exhibits the pattern style, and is formed by 
 gradual improvements upon the others. No Chinese can 
 claim any consideration as a man of literature who cannot 
 correctly and neatly write in this character. 
 
 The fourth style is a running hand, to some extent, as 
 the pencil may, without being raised, pass from stroke to 
 stroke in the formation of the character, while no abbre- 
 viation is allowable in writing it. 
 
 The fifth is a still freer running hand, full of abbrevia- 
 tions, as will be seen by the comparison. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 175 
 
 Sixth. Fifth. Fourth. Third. Second. First. 
 
 
 42 
 
176 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The sixth is a beautifully formed character for its sym- 
 metry and uniformity, deriving its name, Shung Te, from 
 the dynasty during whose time it was introduced, as a more 
 elegant form of character for printing. This art, by means 
 of wooden plates, was introduced into China near the com- 
 mencement of the tenth century, and during the succeeding 
 forty years the Shung dynasty possessed the government, 
 under whose auspices this character received its modifica- 
 tions and improvements, and has remained and still contin- 
 ues to be the picturesque and beautiful character in which 
 the Chinese books are printed. 
 
 It would be interesting to give in this connection various 
 quotations from the prose works of the Chinese, which 
 would serve to illustrate their style, manners, domestic 
 economy, philosophy, and religion their impressions con- 
 nected with the power of charms, lucky days, festivals 
 aphorisms a few hobgoblin stories and freaks of fairies 
 who hold their court in the constellation of Ursa Major, 
 and greatly concern themselves in the government of the 
 Chinese people, making Mr. Bulwer's fairy action in guard- 
 ing the beautiful consumptive in the " Legends of the Rhine" 
 more natural, had the scenes been laid in China, than I 
 thought them when reading his book ; and though I now 
 forget whether he places their court in the same star- 
 palaces of the north but, to indulge on all these topics, 
 
 if it should not tire, it would too much extend this notice 
 of the celestial empire in connection with our pause in the 
 China seas. 
 
 It is certain, however, that in the literature of China, 
 with all its crudities, there is much of interest their books 
 abounding in sentences of formal etiquette and graceful 
 expressions, though deficient in tender sentiments. The 
 people have been acting according to a prescribed code 
 of rules in manners for centuries, which makes them the 
 most formal nation in their habits of intercourse among 
 themselves and with others, that exists on the fuce of the 
 earth. And yet there is a measured politeness, and an 
 ease too, with all the grave etiquette of the people, that 
 gives an agreeableness to their manners and a grace to their 
 formality, even to their attitudes in walking, bowing, and 
 their stereotyped salutations ; and you feel, while your 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 177 
 
 heart melts in kindness towards the Chinese gentleman in 
 your association with him, that the " Board of Rites," at 
 Peking, however much they may have retarded the Chi- 
 nese nation in its advance in the scale of modern improve- 
 ment, have yet given to the nation a system of manners 
 towards their equals worthy of a refined people. 
 
 CHINESE SALUTATIONS. 
 
 Dr. Morrison has remarked, on the ceremonial forms of 
 China, that the "joining of hands and raising them before 
 the breast," is the lowest order of salutation known among 
 the Chinese. The next more deferential mark of consider- 
 ation is a low bow, with the hands joined as before. The 
 third, still more deferential, is bending the knee, as if about 
 to kneel. The fourth, kneeling. The fifth, to kneel and 
 strike the head against the ground. The sixth, to strike 
 the head three times against the ground previous to rising 
 from a kneeling position. The seventh, kneeling and strik- 
 ing the forehead three times, rising and again kneeling and 
 striking the head yet further three times before rising. 
 The climax, or the eighth ceremonial, the Chinese call the 
 kow-tow, and is required of all who enter the presence of 
 the Emperor, and invariably practised by the courtiers 
 around the person of his celestial majesty. It is kneeling 
 three successive times, and at each time knocking the 
 head against the ground. Some of the gods of China are 
 entitled only to the sixth and seventh degree of veneration, 
 while Heaven (Teen) and the Emperor receive the three 
 prostrations and the three times three knockings of the 
 head, from him who would approach these deemed to be 
 equally sacred powers, in worship and for favor. 
 
 WALK AROUND THE WALL OF CANTON. 
 
 On the morning of one of the last three days I spent in 
 Canton, it was proposed to me to take a walk around the 
 city walls. This had been done, and it was deemed prac- 
 ticable now, though my kind friend Dr. Parker thought 
 that the adventurers who should attempt it would render 
 
178 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 themselves liable to be pelted with mud and pebbles, 
 if nothing more serious should happen, before they re- 
 turned. 
 
 The principal inducement to myself was the probability 
 that the city might be entered through a breach in the 
 wall on the northwest extreme of the city, should the point 
 be reached at the break of day. For my own personal 
 safety I had but little apprehension, having already tra- 
 versed most of the town without the walls unmolested, 
 save the inconvenience of the crowds that gathered around 
 the Fanqui. It was also my desire to gain a view of the 
 country beyond the city. My young friend K. offered to 
 be my pilot, and we were to start at four o'clock in the 
 morning, expecting to reach the breach before the celes- 
 tials were moving. We were on our way at the moment 
 appointed, and found ourselves threading the narrow streets 
 at a quick pace, and with light enough just to discover to 
 us the way our course lay ; and now and then dark ob- 
 jects confronted us, which had begun to move earlier than 
 we anticipated, and to increase in numbers as we passed 
 from street to street. Occasionally a door of a shop open- 
 ed, and the occupant placed a lighted josh-stick in the urn 
 of the family god, at one side of the threshold of the door; 
 and now we glided by a sleeping sentry who had antici- 
 pated the hour of daybreak, and stretched himself on some 
 vacant stool to gain his morning nap. The faces of those 
 who were passing us became more and more distinct, and 
 began to awaken our fears that we should be too late to 
 pass the gate in a wing of the wall extending from the 
 main bulwark towards tfie river at the west corner of the 
 city, and formed the pass to the country. We had already 
 passed the southern gate, through which criminals are 
 conveyed from the inner city for decapitation a point we 
 had visited the preceding evening, and saw near a dozen 
 skulls occupying the manger-like reservoir attached to the 
 wall, for holding the heads as they fall from the body at 
 the stroke of the executioner. Labels of the names and 
 crimes were still adhering to some of these victims of a 
 merciless code ; and we trusted that our own heads would 
 not be perilled, though we were venturing beyond the 
 limits usual for foreigners in their rambles ; and in these 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE ORLD. 179 
 
 times of excitement could rely, if ever, but little on the 
 good faith or forbearance of a Chinese mob. 
 
 As we had measured a good long distance through the 
 narrow streets, and daylight had already broken upon us, 
 we concluded that we had arrived at the gate leading 
 through the wing of the wall, and quickening our step, 
 advanced to sally through ; when the sentry from within 
 the guard-house raised a cry loud enough for the alarm, 
 if a hundred cities had been on fire, and the halloo was 
 repeated by numbers of the people already passing and 
 repassing this opening through the wall. I had advanced 
 and turned to hurry on my companion, without regarding 
 the twenty arms of the celestials that were beckoning me 
 to return, but we soon concluded that we had turned too 
 suddenly to the left, and were bolting directly through, 
 into the city. To the gratification of the sentry, who by 
 this time had come out of his establishment and neared 
 us with positive imperatives, we retraced our steps and 
 continued our course still south and east, and in a few 
 moments more passed the gate of the wing of the wall 
 which we supposed we were doing in our previous at- 
 tempt. We now followed a narrow lane lined on either 
 side by inferior houses directly under the main bulwarks 
 of the wall, and the crowds of the lower classes gazing 
 from their doors as we passed them with a rapid pace. 
 We soon stood in the country. The sun was just rising. 
 The green field a beautiful stream, purling along the deep 
 cut of the ravine and the ravine itself, were all objects of 
 acceptable contrast to the pent-up space through which 
 we had been threading our way by twilight. 
 
 The wall was on our left, rising high up some forty or 
 fifty feet here, and here again, on a more elevated point 
 of ground, not over twenty the battlements crowning 
 its top and ornamenting the heavy work by their regular 
 openings. The lower part of the wall is built principally 
 of stone, the upper part of brick. We saw more than 
 once persons walking upon the wall as they discovered 
 themselves to us through the openings of the battlements. 
 A half hour more of rapid walking brought us to the high 
 point where we doubled the southeastern corner of the 
 wall, with high grounds at our right in the distance crown*- 
 
 42* 
 
180 A VOYAGE AROUND THE "WORLD. 
 
 ed with lookout stations, and between them and the wall 
 runs a deep ravine, to the high edge of which the wall ex- 
 tends. A short distance brought us to the breach on the 
 northwestern part of the wall. We had left every object 
 of animated life out of sight as we turned the southeastern 
 corner of the wall ; and learing that our time was too far 
 extended into the morning, the sun being already up, we 
 apprehended, as we ascended the ruins of the wall which 
 here occupied the highest point of ground within the city, 
 that we might at once be brought into a confronting posi- 
 tion with some of the frowning gentlemen of the long 
 braids. But we ascended cautiously, and in a moment or 
 two found ourselves standing on a spacious piece of table- 
 ground forming the brow of a hill that overlooks the whole 
 city. A single tree of forest dimensions is standing here, 
 and beneath it we reclined and contemplated the forbidden 
 city spread immediately beneath and before us, every part 
 of its wide area within distinct vision. It was a beautiful 
 field of perspective, surpassing all that I had anticipated, 
 supposing it to be crowded, like the suburbs, with shops 
 innumerable. But as it now spread before us, the spacious 
 courts exposed themselves to the eye, and the dwellings 
 being generally low but empaling spacious grounds for 
 gardens, exhibited more foliage and shrubbery than is 
 usual to be seen in an extensive city. Our eye reconnoi- 
 tering here and there, rapidly took in this view and that, 
 the elevation of another part, and the crowned spurs of the 
 hills over which the walls on the northwest run. A still 
 calm yet rested on the provincial city in its slumber of the 
 morning, as the sun was now sending over it his earliest 
 level beam. 
 
 But, another moment, and a halloo from a celestial, 
 who had just made us out, came forth from a high building 
 as his wail broke upon our ear. He advanced with an im- 
 mense bamboo-pole, elevating it over his head in a threaten- 
 ing attitude, while, with a gesture, he indicated that it was 
 his pleasure that we should walk over the wall again, and 
 adown the steep pile of ruins, by which we had ascended. 
 
 My friend, who had once before made the circuit of 
 the wall at the expense of some little inconvenience, re- 
 ceived from the erratic flights of mud and pebbles at a 
 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 181 
 
 point a little further on, now suggested that it might be 
 better for us to depart before the said threatening bamboo 
 came in too near an approximation to us. He therefore 
 stood with one foot on the edge of the aslant of the ruins, 
 ready to retreat with most expeditious despatch, while I 
 begged permission (as I like to have my own way on such 
 occasions) to take one more look at the silent city, sleep- 
 ing in its rest and shade of many shrub and tree. 
 
 I should have felt less confident in my position had I 
 not possessed a spell in my pocket, which I well knew 
 would act as a charm upon the hero of the bamboo, so 
 long as he held the field single-handed. And therefore, 
 both for the amusement of trying his spirit, and to hold 
 my own place for a moment longer relying fully upon 
 my silver magic to quell any rising storm, however high 
 the anger of the celestial might rage I waved my very 
 substantially proportioned walking-stick over my head, as 
 much as to say that walking-stick and bamboo-pole might 
 forget all politeness, should they come, without timely 
 explanation, into juxtaposition. The Chinese now hesitated, 
 dropped his pole from above his head and held it with 
 his distended hand, and with his other began, by drawing 
 it across his throat, to make all manner of indicatives 
 that our heads might also be labelled and exposed in the 
 execution catch-all, in the neighborhood of the south- 
 eastern gate of the city, where we had visited, with 
 more disgust than trembling, the day before. Having 
 satisfied myself that the hero would not venture nearer 
 until reinforced, I took another view, and at length ad- 
 vanced towards him on seeing several others approaching 
 up the steep ; and now, by a slight and confidential touch 
 of the hand, assured him that I desired that we might be 
 friends ; and he having received a certificate of this de- 
 sire, as he extended his, simply begged that I would leave 
 the beautiful height as soon as possible with convenience 
 to myself. To give the now amiable celestial all the cre- 
 dit of having driven us out before the approaching brother- 
 hood, who were rapidly gathering, should come up, I bid 
 the hero " chin-chin? and disappeared beneath the mound, 
 up which we had ascended to the most prominent point 
 of the whole enclosure within the walls of the city. 
 
182 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Our path lying outside the wall, we were aware that 
 the party which had gathered as we left the wall might, 
 by a shorter route, anticipate us, and cause us incon- 
 venience as we reached the gate of the wing of the wall 
 on the northwest, corresponding with the wing on the 
 south, and where opposition had been experienced by 
 some others, on a previous expedition to circle the wall 
 of Canton city. But, while we quickened our pace we 
 met with no obstacles at the position where we mostly 
 apprehended it. By a sudden bend of the wall we were 
 shielded from view until we could come suddenly up to 
 the gate and pass it. We did so, and found a funeral 
 procession at the point, moving thus early out of the city. 
 We were suffered to pass without disturbance ; and en- 
 tering the narrow streets again of the city, called the 
 suburbs of the inwalled town, we soon had our attention 
 drawn to a number of butchers of dogs, which they were 
 now dressing, and which had the appearance of young pigs. 
 They reciprocated our smile, and wished to know if we 
 of the outer land ate dogs. No, we assured them, only 
 when shipwrecked, and would preserve life in our last 
 extremity. We had not advanced far ahead of these 
 gentry before they overtook us, and they trotted on with 
 two baskets slung, one at either end of a bamboo-pole, 
 bearing these identical and delicate specimens of the ca- 
 nine species to the market, for the gratification of the 
 taste of the celestial epicures. 
 
 We reached the American hong without being con- 
 veyed thither in a pig-basket, as we have been told of a 
 gentleman, who, it is said, having wandered too far from 
 the factories, was very charitably returned in such a vehi- 
 cle. Having taken a bath and consulted our toilets, we 
 soon found ourselves seated at a fine breakfast, with ap- 
 petites improved by a walk of about six miles, accom- 
 plished in about two and a half hours. 
 
 STREETS OF CANTON. 
 
 The two streets of Canton, where the principal trade 
 with the foreigners is done, with the exception of the 
 regular trade with the Chinese hong merchants, called the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 183 
 
 cohong, which in times of good understanding are all 
 bustle and life, now exhibit the appearance of an " infected 
 district" in New- York, when the yellow fever chances to 
 be reported as prevailing. New China-street is almost 
 entirely forsaken, the original opening towards the river 
 having been shut up, lest, at the time, an illicit intercourse 
 should be held in supplying the foreigners during their 
 " durance vile" in their factories, communicating as that 
 street does with the grounds on which the factories front. 
 And old China-street, the only one now remaining open 
 as an outlet and inlet to the factories, presents the shops 
 with closed doors, or at least with closed shutters ; though 
 the Chinese shop-keepers are seen standing in their doors, 
 and cautiously but eagerly invite the European in to 
 trade, while, with fear and trembling lest they shall be 
 fined by the mandarins, if seen, they close their doors and 
 commence the display of their thousand varieties of goods, 
 curious and useful, to the stranger. Many of these shop- 
 keepers transported their goods within the city walls, ap- 
 prehending that there might be collisions between the Chi- 
 nese and the foreign population. But they soon re-supply 
 their counters; and you may have trinkets of every species 
 valuables of great interest curiosities long to gratify 
 the eye and variety on variety, which gives the stranger 
 ever renewing interest in his observation for the first 
 few weeks of his residence at this extensive and only mart 
 of foreign trade in the celestial empire. There are many 
 expensive curiosities, which seldom reach the United 
 States, found in the antique shops of the city, as they 
 would be called elsewhere ; scenic representations, fre- 
 quently of considerable beauty, exhibiting mountainous 
 scenery, and variety of pictorial representations resembling 
 extensive mosaics or cameo marble slabs, though affirmed, 
 by the venders, to be natural ; also Japan ware of costly 
 prices from Japan itself, though always in small quantities; 
 figures in rock crystal, and crystallized quartz of dark, 
 opaque, translucent, and purest transparent specimens. 
 The lacquered-ware shops also present a great variety of 
 furniture and household wares; work-tables; round-tables; 
 dressing-tables; boxes of all kinds; waiters; chess-men; 
 card-cases ; card-baskets, &c., &c., of ivory and shell. 
 
184 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 And the silver shops, though the work exhibited is inferior 
 in workmanship to the European, so far as plate is con- 
 cerned, yet present every variety ; and the per centage 
 on the work is lower than at home, the plainest patterns 
 in silver being wrought at twelve and a half per centum ; 
 and from this varying, according to the pattern, to thirty- 
 seven and a half per centum. One article of silver egg- 
 stands struck me as particularly tasteful, exhibiting an 
 originality of pattern I had not before seen. The filligrane 
 work in silver and gold bracelets, and frontlets and buckles, 
 would meet the taste of the lady delighting in finery, and 
 not be inappropriate, so far as some of the silver patterns 
 are concerned, to fillet the brow and to clasp the wrist 
 of the most fastidious in their selections. But I should tire 
 were I to enumerate more particularly, and shall be happy, 
 if, in my selections of Canton trifles or more valuable 
 things for distant friends, they shall be suited to their taste. 
 
 Every Chinese gentleman as well as lady wearing a 
 fan, at least in these southern parts, has caused particular 
 attention to be given to their manufacture ; and the va- 
 rieties of leather, paper, tortoise shell, ivory, silk, painted, 
 stamped, embroidered, brocaded, present to the purchaser all 
 he could wish for making a collection to please his fair 
 friends at home, that in the celestial's own " flowery lan- 
 guage" they may bear "the gale, scented with the perfume 
 of flowers, to the blushing cheek."* There is one specimen 
 made of the feathers of the Argus pheasant, some of them 
 more than three feet in diameter, very beautiful, and are 
 a light and pretty thing for a hand-screen. 
 
 A Chinese, generally, wears no cap or hat except on 
 official and ceremonious occasions, and the fan serves him 
 as he walks to protect his eyes from the sun. In the 
 shade the fan again serves him as a graceful nothing by 
 which his hands may be put at ease, as he moves the 
 gentle breeze or plays with it unfolded. 
 
 * A fan presented to Dr. Parker by one of his grateful patients, 
 has an extract from one of the old poets on one side of it and the 
 following note of the transcriber on the other : " Tsyng Mei, (a friend 
 of Ma, who sends the fan,) copies the tung shoo, (the pine tree) 
 and presents his compliments, and desires Dr. Parker to refresh 
 himself with its breath." 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 185 
 
 There is a peculiar swing about the gait of the Chi- 
 nese, which they deem to be both graceful and dignified. 
 It would be death to their pretensions to a knowledge of 
 the graces or the book of rites, did they move more 
 rapidly than a measured step would allow. And there is 
 certainly, with their flowing dress, something very grace- 
 ful in the swing of the mandarin's gait. 
 
 I might add a long disquisition on the various products 
 exhibited for sale at Canton, now I am alluding to some 
 few of its most curious specimens of the shops. I could 
 mention, with a page for each, first the amber ; which, by 
 the way, merits a more particular note when considered 
 as a beautiful thing of nature, and once so valuable as an 
 ornament and for the use of the temple in frankincense. 
 But more fragrant odors now rise to please the gods of 
 millions, that have eyes, and see not ; ears, and hear not ; 
 noses, and smell not. And then amomum, seeds of pun- 
 gent and aromatic taste ; and aniseed stars from the Phi- 
 lippines and Japan ; beeswax ; benzoin ; bezoar ; bicho de 
 mar ; and birds' nests, that peculiarly Chinese staple, for 
 soups, some of which I will exhibit to any of my friends, 
 but cannot afford them many specimens, as they cost more 
 than their weight in silver. And then, thirdly, carda- 
 mons, (elettaria et amomum cardamomum,) which the 
 Chinese use to give flavor to their dishes ; and cassia, 
 that sweet genus the laurus, which makes the name of 
 Laura, sweet, spicy, " gingerly," evergreen and beautiful, 
 like Mr. Willis's poetry, whose piece to little " Laura W." 
 is cassia-sweet, as is all he writes in rhythm. And then, 
 cloves, cochineal, coral, cubebs, the violet-dyeing cudbear. 
 And then, dragon? s-blood, a resinous gum long known, 
 once a favorite substance with alchymists in their mix- 
 tures ; elephants' teeth ; fish maws ; gamboge ; ginseng, 
 that imperial monopoly when produced in Tartary, and 
 which the emperor of China yearly sells to his subjects at 
 the handsome price of just its weight in gold, and which 
 the duped Chinese believes to be a specific for every dis- 
 ease. India ink, too, plain, silvered, and rolled in gold 
 leaf, mace, mother of pearl shells, from which so many 
 decorations, trinkets, and various figures, and letters, and 
 stamps are made, and sometimes in Portuguese settle- 
 
186 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ments of the East serve as window-lights, through which 
 the translucent ray streams in mellowed beam and rich- 
 ness ; and musk and myrrh, nankeens, nutmegs, olibanum 
 the frankincense of ancient times of the Israelites, the 
 Greeks, the Romans, Hindoos, and Budhists, still burned 
 in Chinese temples pepper, quicksilver, rattans, rhubarb, 
 without which the Chinese seem to think the Americans 
 and all the English and the world beside must perish, to 
 a certainty. Rice what would China and all the East 
 do without rice ? " Have you eaten rice 1" is the question 
 with the Chinese, if a friend comes in, near the hour of 
 the first or second meal, instead of, have you breakfasted 
 or dined. Sandal wood, sapan wood, shells from the sea 
 shores, sea-weed, sharks' fins, silks, skins, steel, sugar, (I 
 trust the reader marks that I recite alphabetically,) tea, 
 thread, tin, tortoise shell, turmeric, tutenague, vermilion, 
 woollens. Surely such a classification is not elsewhere 
 known, even in the wild systems of the Chinese, founded 
 on the analogy of their four elements, air, earth, fire, 
 water. 
 
 My mercantile friends would give me no credit for 
 acumen in the trading " lore and lucre," were I to dis- 
 course much on traffic, and therefore I must console my- 
 self with the knowledge that commercial dictionaries are 
 at their elbows when they would learn of commerce 
 and trade subjects I purposely avoid, together with all 
 statistics, measurements, plans of edifices, tonnage, etc. etc., 
 only so far as it suits my purposes to do otherwise, or 
 would be inconvenient not to introduce them. The square 
 and compass are not convenient companions for a walk 
 numbers, my phrenological friend says, I do not particu- 
 larly excel in, though a very good mathematician, and yet 
 more given to metaphysics.* 
 
 * If any reader of these volumes should be disposed to think the 
 writer has indulged too little in statistics and local and commercial 
 information, connected with the places at which our squadron 
 touched during its cruise, I have only to say, that such omission 
 has been intended. It were easy to compile volumes of tables, 
 notes of population, geographical boundaries, and such like, and 
 all this from books in one's own chamber and at home, as easily 
 and as accurately as abroad. It has already been done ; and the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 187 
 
 And yet it would be neglectful of the memory of our 
 ever-to-be-venerated mothers of the revolution, who so 
 heroically practised abstinence from the folia of the China 
 shrub, were I so slightingly to pass over the tea plant, 
 with only the naming it as in the list above. And I should 
 do injustice, too, to the aromatic recollections of mine 
 hosts, Mr. Morse and Dr. P. of the American hong, did I 
 not allude to the ulong and poshong with which their table 
 was supplied ; the one giving forth the odor of the mari- 
 gold, (marigold? aye, the marigold some of my friends 
 will understand my allusion to the marigold,) and mixed, 
 yielding to the taste the flavor of roses, as their perfume 
 comes to the sense of smelling. Surely could the heroines 
 of those olden times, already alluded to, (blessed be their 
 memory !) when no sacrifice was too great for the freedom 
 of their sons, in whose liberties their own were identified, 
 have been regaled with the aroma of the fresh teas which 
 have been served to us here, the eventful scenes which 
 gave birth to a new power among the nations might have 
 been delayed. For it is a tempting draught, that cup of 
 fresh tea as it may be drank in China, united with the 
 American mode of serving it with cream and sugar, and 
 most certainly would have made some of the Boston whig 
 ladies notable tories, ere they would have sacrificed such 
 a beverage. But one must take a voyage to Canton, and 
 be an inmate of the hospitable hosts of the American 
 hong, before one can gain such a cup of tea as the world 
 nowhere else out of China knows. A sea voyage dissi- 
 pates, to a great extent, the rich flavor that characterizes 
 the fresh teas of the choicest kinds, as they are drunk by 
 tea-connoisseurs in China. 
 
 The time fixed for the duration of my stay in Canton 
 
 books with these particulars are on our shelves or in every library. 
 Descriptions of things one's self has seen, and emotipns one's self 
 has felt at the time of mingling in the scenes where, for the time 
 being, he has moved, give him at least more acceptable topics for 
 writing upon, in his indulgence over his private journal, and will 
 be most likely to be acceptable to those whose sympathies he is so 
 fortunate as to have, whatever may be the approbation or disap- 
 probation of those (of less consequence to him) who enter not into 
 his feelings nor pardon their indulgence, or rather their expression, 
 as awakened amid the incidents and associations of his travels. 
 
 43 
 
188 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 having been completed, and my observations hurriedly 
 made, commissions executed, and my own wishes very 
 nearly satisfied as to the length of my visit to the provin- 
 cial city, I prepared to leave on Tuesday, the 25th of 
 June. My time had been rendered agreeable in its rapid 
 flight under the courteous attentions of Dr. Parker and 
 Mr. Morse, to whom I am particularly indebted for the 
 pleasantness of my visit at Canton. The hospitality of 
 these gentlemen was not only cordial at the time, but a 
 note from the latter assured me, after my return to the 
 Columbia, that a second visit would ensure me another 
 welcome to the American hong. I mention it to evince 
 my sense of the kindness of these gentlemen, and the 
 known liberality of the individuals composing the house 
 of O., K. & Co. At the other American houses I receiv- 
 ed the courtesies with which the American gentleman 
 visiting Canton is assured of meeting from his fellow 
 citizens while there ; and was happy to meet them at 
 their table, by whom several of our officers, who were 
 visiting Canton, were courteously entertained. 
 
 The community of American merchants at Canton 
 preserve a style in living that does them credit as good 
 livers, while practising (I am told) a good degree of tem- 
 perance in their habits. Their tables were well furnished 
 their meals served in very creditable style, and the 
 system of domestic arrangements, including their com- 
 prador and servants, is among the most convenient if not 
 the very best in the world. The Chinese servants, too, 
 are the very pink of perfection in their way. I am sure 
 the officers of both ships will remember, with lasting 
 pleasure, the acquaintances they formed at Canton, and 
 the free courtesies they received from them, while there. 
 
 RETURN TO THE GOOD SHIPS. 
 
 With trunks, boxes, packages, silver-ware, lacquered- 
 ware, tea chests and tea caddies, crape shawls, grass 
 cloth in pieces, grass handkerchiefs, silk handkerchiefs, 
 silks, chessmen, silver, shell and ivory card-cases, seals, 
 canes, fans, some antiques, paintings, filligree work, etce- 
 tera, a company of nine officers were on board of the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 189 
 
 passage-boat Union, on the morning of the 25th, 
 slowly down the Pearl river on which Canton is situated, 
 passing the raft of less than a million of tanka-boats, 
 flower-boats, passage-boats, tea-junks, merchant-junks, 
 war-junks the French and Dutch follies, Howqua's fort, 
 pagodas, Whampoa to the Boga Tigris, constituting, as 
 the Chinese deem, the mouth of the Pearl river. Here 
 a mandarin boarded, to see that all was right. Some 
 of the young gentlemen, seeming to doubt whether an 
 embargo might not be placed upon some of the contra- 
 band, were well away when once away from the easily 
 appeased, but sometimes disobliging officers of the cus- 
 toms. The wind breezing up during the night, the next 
 morning the Columbia and John Adams, lying in Tung 
 Koo Bay, hove in sight ; and the passengers of the little 
 clipper Union, with their disgorged chattels, were soon 
 on board of their respective ships, after a visit to the cu- 
 rious city of the south province of the most curious 
 nation of the world ; and with their curiosity abundantly 
 gratified, and their curious tastes sufficiently satisfied by 
 the medley of curiosities with which they had returned. 
 
 For myself, the young dreams occurring in my boy- 
 hood, associated with the far and near East, have been suf- 
 ficiently realized. I am quite ready for our return course. 
 
 It is thought, however, that occurrences may daily take 
 place to detain us here yet some time longer. But in the 
 present state of affairs it is the intention of Commodore 
 Read to leave China, so soon as a sufficient supply of 
 bread is on board. The merchants desire that the Adams 
 should be permitted to remain to protect the commerce 
 in any emergency that may occur, either in the policy of 
 the Chinese government, or as the result of any action 
 that may take place on the part of the Queen's commis- 
 sion, now awaiting despatches from the India Admiral, 
 who probably, however, will not re-appear on this station 
 until he shall have heard from the British government at 
 home, after its reception of intelligence of the present 
 state of affairs, into which the late difficulties in connec- 
 tion with the opium trade has thrown the foreign com- 
 merce in China. The English shipping are all lying at 
 Hong-Kong, and form quite a fleet ; and all are in rest 
 
190 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 waiting for the action, dependent upon whatever intelli- 
 gence shall be received from the West as to the pleasure 
 of her Majesty, or her Majesty's ministers. 
 
 SECTION VI. 
 
 TUNG KOO BAY. 
 
 The ships at anchor. Sounds beneath the hull of the ship. The bull-frogs* 
 serenade. Fourth of July. Ships in gala-dress. Revisit to Macao. Pic- 
 nic. Old walks renewed. Cassa gardens. Farewell to them. Incident. 
 Lines The lovely Maniac. Final leave of Macao. 
 
 As I had anticipated, at the time I left Macao, the two 
 ships moved from the roads to Tung Koo anchorage- 
 ground, nearer Canton, to ride safely during the typhoon 
 season. Here they are in their solitary but social position, 
 while all the merchant vessels have proceeded to Hong- 
 Kong. The bay is formed by the main land, the high 
 peak called the castle peak rising directly in front and 
 north of us, the large Lantow on our right, and the small 
 island of Tung Koo on our larboard quarter. The sce- 
 nery is bold, the high peaks of Lantow, generally capped 
 by a grayish cloud, throwing down the green mountain 
 sidents yet darker and broad folds. Lintin island, so often 
 spoken of as the point where the " opium fleet" have usual- 
 ly concentrated, is seen over the little Tung Koo, daily 
 frowning in its mists, as they wreath in sombre dun the 
 high cliff of this to be future storied isle. But little of in- 
 terest is found here, save a quiet which all love after a 
 bustle for months. Our little schooner, the Rose, plies 
 regularly between our ships and Macao, bringing the 
 news and conveying requisitions, and forming a convey- 
 ance for letters and passage to and from the ships to the 
 city. She is almost the only thing that disturbs the mo- 
 notony that prevails around the ripple of the wave, the 
 going and return of the shore boats for water, bathing, 
 rambling, and sad as it has been all along burying the 
 dead. Since the ships arrived here the captain's clerk of 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 191 
 
 the Adams has died. He was first interred on one of the 
 small islands ; since, in Macao burial-ground. On one oc- 
 casion, on the little island of Tung Koo, I repeated the 
 service over three sailors interred at the same time, in 
 separate graves. It was a solemn echo that came from 
 each grave successively, as the earth crumbled with its 
 muffled sound of " earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to 
 dust," on their coffin-lids. 
 
 The tides here set strongly, flooding and ebbing, and 
 the waters rush like a mill-race by the sides of the ship. 
 At night a peculiar sound not unfrequently makes its 
 monotonous rumbling, which comes through my air-port 
 like the croakings of a million of frogs. I heard the same, 
 at night, on the west coast of Sumatra. Some say they 
 are fish around the bottom of the vessel. May they not 
 rather be millions of coral insects ? The boats and cable- 
 chains, with small coral palaces newly located upon them, 
 would seem to make the supposition a natural one. But 
 I did not care at first, though I were deceived, in deeming 
 these noises the serenading of that long and sleek-legged 
 gentry, which, in defiance of all their natural rights, are 
 conveyed by the dozen into the Canton markets as a gusto 
 for celestial tastes. These commingling sounds around the 
 ship brought to my recollection some lines intimately asso- 
 ciated with the rana brotherhood. I do not know to whom 
 I must accredit them, but avail myself, on the occasion of 
 introducing them, to say that I will thank any friend or 
 stranger to make known to me where I may find a song 
 called " The Dutchman's Bells," or something like it in 
 name, originated by the custom of the Dutch teamsters 
 decorating their horses' headstalls by these tinkling cym- 
 bals. But the serenade of the frogs ; ^certainly, were it 
 set to Chinese music, it might prove an effectual charm 
 for the Budhists to put to a distance beyond their present 
 court in the Ursa Major, the fairies, so much an object of 
 dread to the worshippers of Fuh. 
 
 THE BULL-FROGS' SERENADE. 
 
 " The night was warm, the pool was still, 
 No sound was heard from lake or hill, 
 Save where, upon a log decayed, 
 A bull-frog croaked his serenade : 
 43* 
 
192 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Wake, frogess of my love, awake, 
 
 And listen to my song ; 
 The heron roosts far from the lake, 
 The pickerel his rest doth take 
 
 The water-weeds among. 
 
 The sun has put his fire out, 
 
 The daylight's hardly seen, 
 No enemy is round about ; 
 Then frogess poke thy lovely snout 
 
 Above the waters green. 
 
 For lonely I am sitting here 
 
 Upon a rotten log, 
 Oh cast away all idle fear, 
 And for a moment sweetly cheer 
 
 The sight of thy bull-frog. 
 
 Oh hop with me to other pools, 
 
 Where we may live and love ; 
 Where no cool winds the warm lake cools, 
 And where doth dwell no human fools, 
 
 Those two-legged things above." 
 
 FOURTH OF JULY, 1839 SHIPS IN GALA-DRESS. 
 
 This glorious Fourth has dawned upon us with a bright 
 sky, smiling in sunny keeping with the associations con- 
 nected with the birthday of a nation to its sovereignty 
 among the governments of the earth. And our ships, 
 they are now resting away from that western republic on 
 the waters of an imperial power, which claims all nations 
 of the world as tributaries ; and she, whom they represent, 
 alone of all the civilized powers of earth, has refused to 
 bear tribute, when seeking from the celestial and self- 
 complacent empire of the vaunted " inner land," the favors 
 of trade. And around them the placid waters of Tung 
 Koo, on this bright day, mirror back the green islets and 
 isles rimmed with their beaches of golden sand ; while 
 their elevated peaks, here and there, are lost in the blue 
 deep above, as one purple cloud only is seen lingering 
 above the mountain top, seemingly to say : " Though, this 
 day, your nation's privileges and homes and destinies are 
 bright as the sunny bay and blue skies and green isles that 
 surround you, there were clouds that overhung the nation 
 when your suffering forefathers, in a clouded hour, strug- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 193 
 
 gled for independence." And our ships, to-day, are ar- 
 rayed in all the gorgeous apparelling of the national flags 
 of every people, streaming in the gentle breeze as it qui- 
 vers by them just in sufficient freshness to lay open their 
 graceful folds, and trace to the gazer's eye the emblems 
 of half a hundred nations. And Britain olden and honora- 
 ble Britain though she was the power the infant Colum- 
 bia contended with and overmatched, it was an honorable 
 contention of mighty powers ; and now, that nation's flag 
 is floating in honorable distinction at the main-yard oppo- 
 site the American ensign, at the first post of honor. And 
 under the considerate taste of Lieutenant Turk, while our 
 ships lie moored in the seas of the Celestial Empire, the 
 black and blue and red and white of the Imperial King- 
 dom stream at the maintopsail yard ; and Muscat and 
 Siam, our treaty-friends of the East, and Cochin-China 
 that would be our treaty-friend, occupy places of distinc- 
 tion, while the gems of Portugal, the gold of Spain, and 
 the stripes of France and Holland wave from their several 
 points, with corresponding jacks extending from the royal 
 yard-arms to the several trucks of the now gaudy-colored 
 ship. She is a beauty of no finical taste, but rich in her 
 decorations on this gala-day, displaying her attire of 
 varied dies to the astonishment of the hundred boats of 
 the celestials, who, in unusual numbers, this morning cover 
 the bay. And a few moments since, while the wonder- 
 ing Chinese were yet lingering in their undisguised ad- 
 miration of the strange and gaudy ships, our loud-mouthed 
 cannon spoke the notes of exultation in memory of the 
 glorious day that declared the American nation a free and 
 independent people. 
 
 The scene, in truth, is a beautiful one. The little 
 Johnny A. (pity her name does not correspond with her 
 sex, and she reminds me of a beautiful little girl I once 
 knew, by the name of Henry) lies but a short distance 
 from us, thinking that she has put on her prettiest holiday 
 dress. And she thinks not altogether wrongly either, for 
 she often has good taste ; and, coquette that she is, like 
 most beauties, is never backward in exhibiting her ac- 
 knowledged attractions. 
 
 And at home blessed home ! how are ye all there, 
 
194 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 this day ? I think I see at least one happy-faced group, 
 smiling among the green lawns around them, where they 
 have gathered from the heated walls of that mart of the 
 western world. And would I were with ye, enjoying the 
 green fields and the luxurious shades of that sunny seat. 
 And surely, to-day, ye may well glory in your home, and 
 love the land of the brave and the free of the plentiful 
 and the happy. If it be true that political discord some- 
 times pervades the councils of your nation, and jealous and 
 intriguing ambition wakes the cry of discontent ; and dis- 
 union and degeneracy at times walk undisguised in your 
 public halls, with designs of treachery and treason, ye are 
 yet the happiest people of the earth the freest, and the 
 determined to be free. There is written on the brow of 
 each of your citizens the certificate of his birthright the 
 lines of independence and comfort. And afar from the 
 loud murmur of political strife rise your thousand homes, 
 throughout town, village, and villa, that tell you are yet, 
 and are long to continue to be, a happy nation. It is not 
 mere self-complacency that colors the picture of your do- 
 mestic and even political economy, which demagogues 
 and despots alike would traduce it is the reality of your 
 quiet homes, and comparatively peaceful rule, that height- 
 ens the intensity of the bright contrast in the compare 
 with almost every other nation of the earth, which your 
 pre-eminence leaves in shade and sorrow. Even your 
 own riots, that so defame the wisdom of your institutions 
 abroad, declare you to be a thinking people, and that the 
 voice of a community, that thinks for itself, shall rule$ and 
 not the dictatorial power that forbids any other will than 
 its own to be heard. It was this independence of thought 
 that determined the actions of your forefathers ; and the 
 rich bequest of thinking for yourselves was the manly and 
 perpetual legacy they left to bless, in perpetuity, a free 
 and independent nation. God bless thee then, this day, 
 my happy country ! 
 
 In the evening I strolled on the beach of the main 
 shore, with Lieutenants Turk and Pennock. The sun was 
 nearing its dip as our cutter shoved from the shore, and 
 the two ships still reposed in their quiet, with their flags 
 streaming in the level beam of a nearly setting sun. The 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 195 
 
 music was rolling off, as we neared the frigate ; and when 
 the sun's last ray glanced on the bosom of the still bay, 
 the flags of the two ships fell, in unison, from lift, and stay, 
 and spar, to the decks. 
 
 REVISIT TO MACAO. 
 
 The time of our leaving the China seas rapidly ap- 
 proaching, I availed myself of the opportunity offered by 
 the Rose of revisiting Macao, to take a final leave of my 
 friends there, whose welcome I again received, after an 
 absence of a number of weeks to Canton and Tung Koo 
 retraced some of my old pleasant walks, called on friends, 
 enjoyed a moonlight pic-nic party with Mr. Gutzlaflf and 
 family and others, who rambled to the heights that over- 
 look the bay and the distant roads, and constitute the op- 
 posite cone of the range of hills on which the hermitage 
 that flanks the eastern heights of Macao is located. The 
 eve of the pic-nic was a lovely night, and still, as the unrip- 
 pled surface of the bay, that drank the bright light pouring 
 softly from the silver moon, as she was seen peering in 
 more than her usual loveliness high up in the clear heaven. 
 The music of flutes, and the soft notes of lady-voices, broke 
 on the air of the still-calm scene, ever more mellow and 
 sweet when the intonations are vibrated on the soft eddies 
 of the moist atmosphere of eve ; and the sweet sounds were 
 borne on in the voice of song, along the green hill-side 
 and over the sleeping waters. " We met," was spoken to 
 the currents of the soft breeze ; and Scotland's airs, in all 
 that peculiar style of Highland melody, were heard from 
 the steep, for Scotia had her representative there. The 
 ground had been spread with mats ; and viands and va- 
 riety for various tastes had preceded us, to the elevated 
 and romantic spot. And surely a distant gazer would 
 have thought the fairies were holding their court, as they 
 contemplated the rural scene, graced by the flowing-haired 
 maiden and elder matron, seen by the soft light of the 
 smiling moon, who, herself, was abroad without her veil 
 to-night. Such scenes as these have a charm to the lover 
 of soft nature, and make the amiable more amiable ; the 
 lovely more lovely ; and the manlier brow, knit by mental 
 
196 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 effort, to relax under the gentle influence of the soft breeze 
 and moonlight melody. The party returned by the Praya 
 Grande, that pleasant promenade at evening, and never 
 more pleasant than was that walk this night. 
 
 And I took my last of many rambles in the cassa-gar- 
 dens the succeeding day, which I had thought I should 
 find a place of welcome resort, during my stay at Macao. 
 It is not because Camoens sang in heroics the story of the 
 first adventurer around the cape of storms, amid these 
 shades and rocks it is the sweet retreat itself, where sol- 
 itude becomes a charm, and friendship lights the purest 
 flames upon her altar when strolling with those we esteem, 
 that will long secure to this retreat a place in the memo- 
 ries of the past, which come ever acceptably to the mind. 
 Association how ever-powerful and irresistible in the 
 human mind ! By it, life is relieved a thousand times, and 
 man's existence of earth becomes the space of ages. No- 
 thing is a trifle in its view, and trifles become worlds. 
 
 "A word, a leaf, a faded flower 
 Full oft possess a magic power ; 
 And wake, when gentlest memories flow, 
 The smile of joy or tear of wo." 
 
 Have we not heard, in the simple echo of our own step, 
 some peculiar sound, as we paced some spot, perhaps un- 
 der some peculiar circumstances, which, in after days, re- 
 peated in similarity of echo, has borne back our thought 
 to a far distant place, where we heard that sound before ; 
 and then, relieved in a moment, through scenes that were 
 months, perhaps years, in acting ? I have seen, at the re- 
 petition of a single word, an eye pearled in tears that had 
 not wept before for months. There is a whisper among 
 the foliage of the trees, we may distinguish as having been 
 breathed in other groves. No one may forget where he 
 first listened to the murmurs in the pine-tops with what 
 friend he has moved through the rustling leaves in the au- 
 tumnal forest, as, on some other forest-path, he re-stirs the 
 rustling messengers that wake the memories of the past. 
 Nor may I forget the cassa-groves the friends with whom 
 I have paced those avenues penetrated the wild bower, 
 and together sat on the high turret of the wall beneath the 
 embowering trees, and whose hands have plucked the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 197 
 
 bough and mingled it with gathered flowers as the offering 
 of friendship. There are, of whom it is poetry to think, 
 and piety to love. And though I eschew all sentimental- 
 ism, I estimate with delicacy and vividness the refined fe- 
 male character, always sweet, yet a thousand times more 
 sweet where religion is blended with its elements. Cassa, 
 and its light, and its shade, and rock and avenue, and Ca- 
 moens' olden cave of granite, and embowered turret, and 
 scenes among which, with friends or in solitude, I have 
 promenaded, adieu ! all, save one scene adieu ! 
 
 And that one scene, how it lies in my memory ! I may 
 not, nor would I forget it if I might. I am not certain that 
 I should so freely narrate it. I had several times passed 
 an old gentleman in this garden, attended by his daughter, 
 on my evening walks. He is a Portuguese from Lisbon, 
 of some family consideration, and deemed a man of prop- 
 erty. He married an English lady, who was a Protestant 
 and died not long ago. The young lady, his daughter, is 
 a light brunette, with an exquisite head of hair, playing in 
 unconfined ringlets upon her neck. The Portuguese resi- 
 dents here, wear no bonnets. A little incident had made 
 me acquainted with the father, who speaks English, as did 
 his family. The young lady, for some months past, has 
 partially lost her mind, but not all her vivacity. Her father 
 said she did not perceive the change in herself, but thought 
 it to be in others. 
 
 I sat one evening on the elevated wall, to which I have 
 already alluded as the embowered turret, approached by 
 
 a flight of rustic steps. Mr. and his daughter came 
 
 near as I rose ; and the daughter placing her delicate hand 
 upon my arm, while her own still rested within her father's, 
 she said, " You, Senhor, are not among those who have 
 changed to me !" I could have wept, but only pitied and 
 admired. It was a subject worthy of a betfer composition 
 than the following, which it prompted: 
 
 THE LOVELY MANIAC. 
 
 They loved me once, but now they're changed, 
 
 And look with scornful eye, 
 Though oft with arm in arm we've ranged 
 
 When none seemed loved as I. 
 
198 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 They listened to my plaintive song 
 When I would have them weep ; 
 
 And wished I would the glee prolong 
 When merry strings I'd sweep. 
 
 But all things now seem changed to me 
 
 Except old faithful Rove ;* 
 He shakes his shaggy ears in play, 
 
 And dearer seems to love. 
 
 E'en when I walk the garden-path 
 
 And seat me in the bower, 
 Less sweet I deem the perfume breath, 
 
 Nor find my favorite flower. 
 
 The birds that came with fluttering wing 
 
 Among the garden trees, 
 Less merrily their carols sing 
 
 Upon the evening breeze. 
 
 Oh what can be this fearful change 
 
 On all around I see 1 
 They said, though they the world should range, 
 
 The envied I should be. 
 
 But not as once I deem they love ; 
 
 They sometimes whisper low ; 
 And though they call me oft their dove, 
 
 'Twas once with smiles, not now. 
 
 And they would smooth my sunny hair 
 
 With fondness of caresses, 
 And say so soft, there's none so fair 
 
 As she with raven tresses. 
 
 My mother, when she lived, would say, 
 
 " Sweet Mary, come to me, 
 Do you forget, thou dark-blue eye, 
 
 The kiss that's due from thee 1" 
 
 But she, some months ago, hath gone 
 
 Wipre spirits like her live, 
 She thought she left me not alone, 
 
 And oh, who could believe 1 
 
 But meekness is an angel's charm, 
 
 And beauty has its spells, 
 And I would not resent nor harm, 
 
 But win with playful smiles. 
 
 * The name of their old favorite dog is Pirato, Eng. Rover. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 199 
 
 And yet my heart will sometimes break, 
 
 They look so strange and cold ! 
 And then my silent room I seek 
 
 And weep my woes untold. 
 
 For God is there alone to see 
 
 The sighs my bosom swell, 
 As I before Him bend the knee 
 
 And all my sorrows tell. 
 
 And he is all unlike to those 
 
 So strange that seem to me ; 
 And has a heart that feels my woes, 
 
 And says, He pities me ; 
 
 And if they all forsake me else, 
 
 Not He will Mary leave ; 
 And though the world is surely false, 
 
 None trusts in Him to grieve. 
 
 And when the summer months are o'er, 
 
 And they will dig my grave, 
 In heaven, He tells me, tears no more 
 
 My lilied cheek shall lave ! 
 
 The Rose was to leave her anchorage in the bay for 
 Tung Koo, after dinner. It might be her last trip. I had 
 spent a very agreeable week in Macao, and was on board 
 the schooner at the time appointed. Towards sunset the 
 anchor was aweigh, and the Rose standing slowly out the 
 harbor ; and I, at least, am not again to visit Macao. At 
 the extreme end of Praya Grande was to be seen a single 
 couple a gentleman and lady on their evening prome- 
 nade. The schooner was known, and for a moment they 
 paused and a white handkerchief was waving. I took the 
 compliment and repeated the adieu. 
 
 44 
 
200 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 SECTION VII. 
 
 Getting under way and leaving Tung Koo bay. Gale, and near shipwreck 
 on a lee shore. Entrance to the waters of the Pacific. Eclipse. Water- 
 spout. Crossing the 180 of longitude. Gaining a day. Melancholy loss 
 of men. In sight of the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 " I PRETEND not to be weather-wise, Mr. M.," I remark- 
 ed to the Purser as I joined him on the quarter-deck, 
 while our ship was just ready to trip her anchor on the 
 morning of our leaving Tung Koo bay; "but if all the 
 sailors' signs be true, we shall have more wind before we 
 have less." 
 
 The John Adams, lying in a different position from our- 
 selves, had already gotten under way, being towed through 
 a different pass, as her position was more favorable with 
 regard to the tide, which delayed us for an hour and more, 
 before we could double the head of Tung Koo island. 
 
 It was four bells or ten o'clock in the morning, as our 
 ship unmoored her last hold on the celestial empire. The 
 sky was deeply blue, and beautiful beyond any morning I 
 had before remarked it ; and on this field of calm loveli- 
 ness lay the soft and elongated cloud, with its spread train 
 and feathery edge, more enchanting in its pencilled fringe 
 than I had ever remarked that species of the airy coursers, 
 which the seamen call the mares' tails. They slumbered 
 in their unearthly and sweet rest as they lay, few and at 
 far distances from each other, with the mackerel backs, in 
 their checkered and broken layers, filling more closely the 
 higher up portions of the blue deeply blue concave. 
 Few mornings ever broke more fair few skies ever look- 
 ed more beautiful, as these clouds in the play of their elec- 
 tric points varied the rich and sunny heaven. One mystic 
 nimbus was alone to be seen amid all this rich beauty, as 
 it wreathed its dark folds around the highest peak of Lin- 
 tin, an island in the near distance, as if to say, " skies the 
 brightest are not always unclouded." 
 
 The breeze springing up, we stood down the Macao 
 Roads, under a gentle press of canvass, unable to take the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 201 
 
 more northern and eastern pass ; and soon after dismissed 
 the pilot, with the hopes and the prospects of gaining, with 
 the increasing and favorable wind, a long stretch before 
 nightfall, from this island-bound coast. 
 
 All were congratulating themselves and each other on 
 their happy escape from Tung Koo. We had seen enough 
 of the celestials, at their homes ; and this point seemed 
 now, to us, the starting place of our return to our own 
 dear land ; while every benevolent heart looked forward 
 to our soon gaining a more northern latitude, which, it was 
 hoped and believed, would give substance to many of the 
 shadows which were moving, like so many ghosts, over 
 our decks, and add nerve to the decayed energies of the 
 ship's company. Every step now seemed to plant itself 
 more firmly on the deck, and every chest breathed already 
 more freely as the freshening breeze bore on our ships, until, 
 with the sunset, all apprehension of a lee shore escaped 
 the visions of the wary sailor. 
 
 " Stand by to furl the royals, I say !" cried the officer of 
 the deck, after the Commodore had taken a few rounds on 
 the quarter-deck, and scanned the prospects of the weather 
 for the night. 
 
 " Haul taught in royals !" was the next order ; and a 
 moment had not passed when those far-up sails, looking so 
 like the palm of a man's hand in their breadth, as they are 
 spread upon the highest spars of the ship, were gathered 
 to the slim and highest yards of the masts. 
 
 " We divined not wrongly, Purser, as we read that beau- 
 tiful sky this morning : 
 
 ' Mackerel skies and mares' tails 
 Make lofty ships carry low sails.' " 
 
 The Purser and myself, at this pleasant hour, were tres- 
 passing, with other officers of the ward-room, on the arm- 
 chest of the quarter-deck, while these orders were being 
 given. 
 
 " Man the top-gallant clewlines weather-brace hand 
 by the lee-brace lay aloft to furl the top-gallant sails !" 
 again cried the officer, through his trumpet, as the breeze 
 continued to freshen, and the ship, under the impulse of the 
 pressure upon her canvass now and ever met, with a bound 
 
202 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 that bid defiance to the wave, the cleft surge, which the fresh 
 breeze of the day had begun to conjure up to a greater 
 magnitude each moment we had been deepening our water, 
 in its blue and fathom. 
 
 " Haul taught let go the halliards and lee-sheet clew 
 down ! Let go the weather-sheet clew up !" A moment 
 only passed, and the top-gallant sails of the fore, main, and 
 mizzen, lay as snugly to their yards, as ever lady plaited 
 surplice over stomacher or roll on dress. 
 
 The ship was deemed snug for the night ; and as the 
 hours advanced, with the continuance of the fresh and 
 favorable breeze, all, save the watches in their turn, were 
 lost at the usual time in their hammocks, cot, or bed. 
 
 The hour had reached a little past the mid-watch of the 
 night, without awakening the apprehensions of the officer 
 of the deck beyond the attentive marking of the weather, 
 until a dark squall, as if magic had gained some new pow- 
 ers in rapidity of movement, came down upon the ship, 
 and with its heavy breath, shivered to ribands every sail 
 that was set upon the ship. 
 
 It was a sorry sight, as the day broke, to see the tattered 
 sails, that had been with difficulty gathered to the yards. 
 The squall had now given place to a steady gale, increasing 
 every hour in its force and fury ; and the ship was now 
 lying to under fore storm-staysail and the main and miz- 
 zen trysails. The royal and top-gallant yards had been 
 sent down, the topsail yards clewed down, and the Colum- 
 bia, in her storm-dress, now abided the war of elements, 
 the torrents of rain, and the hurricane of winds. The rains 
 for a while ceased, while the winds yet drove the sheets of 
 spray in their horizontal layers from the cleft tops of the 
 high waves in as drenching volumes through the cordage 
 of the nearly naked ship, as were the torrents themselves. 
 A new course was bent while the frigate lay to like a life- 
 boat on the billow, though the sea had now swollen to the 
 mountain-surge. The John Adams, under the same sail, 
 was seen at the windward, apparently with all things snug, 
 like a phantom craft, and at times under bare poles, as the 
 two ships rose together, or again sunk, so that the trucks 
 of either became for a moment invisible to the other, and 
 the next, rose with their hulls and every cord distinctly 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 203 
 
 traceable on the wild and dun sky. And then, those winds, 
 those howling winds of the gale, as they murmured with 
 a voice more doleful than could be the chant of a thou- 
 sand spirits of lost mariners engulfed by the raging storm, 
 came through our rigging, with omens of dark things to the 
 ship. 
 
 Thus the two cruisers stood on their parallel tracks for 
 the day, bounding from surge to surge, or drifting from 
 ravine of water to leeward ravine, while the roll of the sea 
 spread out its giant proportions, now tumbling from its 
 height to find its level as the top broke in its cataract of 
 foam to the deep and blue declivities of the billows ; or at 
 times, threw its broad sheet in a crystal river across the 
 bulwarks of our ship. 
 
 The wind in its fury fell not as the coming night shut in 
 44* 
 
204 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 again upon the dark sea ; but its fearful impulses increased 
 as the night watches advanced. The shipwas thoroughly 
 soaked by the driving surges which dashed against the 
 Columbia, now penetrating the partial openings of the 
 closed port-holes or coming from the hatchways of the 
 upper-deck ; and our ward-room was afloat from the sea 
 that drove with an irresistible force against the stern-ports, 
 and penetrated by the rudder coat. And the sick were 
 in their darkness, and distress, but delaying death. But 
 wet as was the ship, and shivered as were her sails, the 
 revelation of the morning had not been anticipated for its 
 fearful apprehension, and the critical circumstances in 
 which the gallant bark was found. The top-gallant masts, 
 notwithstanding the back-stays w r ere well taught, bent like 
 a withe in the roll of the ship; and the morning discover- 
 ed, as trifles in these circumstances, that the main-top-gal- 
 lant-mast had been carried away, together with the main- 
 trysail mast ; and one of the boats, without having been 
 heard in the loud roar of the winds as it was disengaged 
 by some surge from the davits, had gone on its wild buf- 
 fet of the waves. 
 
 With sea-room, and the gale might, if it please, blow r its 
 worst in typhoon, hurricane, and tempest, and we would 
 trust the good Columbia to her stumps, evincing, as she did, 
 her stanch qualities, without admitting a drop of water 
 through her lower planks, and bounding and rebounding 
 like some light but solid trunk of a forest mammoth, w r hich 
 the storm of ages might beat upon uninjured and unyield- 
 ing, in the tight work of her admirable mechanism. But 
 the rock, and the coral reef, and shoal, and sand bar, in 
 union with the surge of the open ocean, and the wild gale 
 that shows no pity in its madness, would make even a thing 
 so fair and faithful as the frigate that had so justly secured 
 our confidence and attachment, a mere cradle of bulrush- 
 es, were she once to strike upon them, in the tumult of the 
 elements that were now driving above, and raging around, 
 and rolling beneath us. But it was hoped that we had 
 gained an offing, the first twenty-four hours, of some hun- 
 dred and fifty miles ; and it must be a fearful drift of tides 
 and drive of winds, that could have borne us in danger- 
 ous nearness to the coast. The dark clouds had per- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 205 
 
 mitted no observation, and the log could not give us the 
 tides and the drift. The second morning broke, and the 
 storm had not lowered its voice ; and the hurricane in its 
 torrent-tempest now blended its fury with the heaviest roll 
 of the sea, heaving in its wildest commotion. None but 
 the mariner, then, could estimate the fearful development 
 of the daybreak, as the morn let fall its early light on a 
 suddenly changed sea in its color, from the deep blue of the 
 fathomless ocean, to the pale green of soundings. The 
 lead in its cast gave the shallow water of but twenty-five 
 fathoms, and in the drift of a few more casts, but twenty- 
 two fathoms, still decreasing, while the elements commin- 
 gled their continued and unabating furies. 
 
 All hands were called. Even the sick were summoned 
 from their hammocks. On a lee-shore no officer would 
 venture the ship within twenty fathoms, in so wild a blow; 
 and the tide and the gale were sweeping her each mo- 
 ment nearer to the invisible land, now impossible to be 
 seen through the whirling mists a hundred lengths of the 
 ship. Our sails, then, seemed our only salvation ; and yet 
 they had all been riven to a useless mass of parcelling ; 
 while our anchors, in such a roll of the sea, would neces- 
 sarily be the last resort. New topsails therefore were 
 bent by the already far-spent and nearly exhausted crew, 
 while the Commodore, in a consultation with three of his 
 principal officers, decided that the anchors should not be 
 cast so long as twenty fathoms of water swept beneath 
 the ship. And yet no sails could stand in such a gale, to 
 enable the frigate to beat from off the shore ; and no ship 
 could tack in such a sea ; and no anchors, it was believed, 
 could hold a ship driven by such a commotion of the roll- 
 ing ocean ; or, if anchors held, the ship must swamp be- 
 neath the surge as it broke in its sweep above the decks, 
 and the masts, without a remedy, go by the board. And 
 yet the ship, in her drift of another fifteen minutes, might 
 strike ; and if the gale continued but a few hours longer, 
 and the wind held its point where it was, she must strike 
 on rock, or reef, or sand ; and in either case, in such a 
 swell, those who best knew the dangers, cherished least 
 the hope of rescue to a single soul of the frigate's crew. 
 
 Was it a miracle ? It served us the same as if the AL- 
 
206 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 mighty had extended his arm from the cloud, and pointed 
 to the winds, whither, for our safety, to change their course! 
 The rain in its last torrents seemed to have pressed down 
 the sea to the ocean's level, by the weight of the cataracts 
 that fell in their last effort. A lull came in a moment 
 more. The crew, in their exhaustion, and drenched for 
 hours, without sustenance, had but just completed the 
 bending of the sails to supply the canvass riven in the 
 gale, when the wind, as if by enchantment, came out from 
 another quarter. In a moment more it fell upon our 
 courses and topsails, which had been braced around as 
 the ship wore, and on another tack she now lay several 
 points further from the land. With the change of wind 
 came a lifting of the mists ; and under our lee, within four 
 hours more drift of the gale, lay the high bluffs of an iron- 
 bound coast ! From this, in twelve hours more of light 
 and freshening and favorable breezes, we parted, beyond 
 solicitude or care. 
 
 For myself, I seldom experience much of the emotion 
 of fear, in circumstances of danger ; and in this instance 
 could but slightly estimate the critical circumstances of the 
 ship, compared with those who had made many voyages, 
 and encountered many dangers. No sign of alarm, how- 
 ever, marked the energetic action of the officers or the 
 unwearied efforts of the crew ; while a gravity, becoming 
 the circumstances of the ship, prevailed. 
 
 On the succeeding Sabbath, the attentive solemnity at 
 our usual services indicated that there was no heart pres- 
 ent that did not respond to the sentiment of the following 
 prayer, which a sincere emotion of gratitude, in my own 
 heart at least, had dictated, for the becoming thanksgiving 
 of the day : 
 
 " O God, who boldest the wave and the wind in thy 
 palm, and at whose command the gale awakes, and the 
 sea rages ; we give thee our thanks that our lives have 
 been spared, and that our ship has been preserved through 
 the dangers of the gale, which has swept, in its fury, so 
 lately by us. May we feel that our lives are in thy hand ; 
 and that our breath is the gift of thy favor ; and attribute 
 the continuance of our mortal existence to the Providence 
 which has sustained us. When there was no hope in 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 207 
 
 mortal power when the winds and the tides were sweep- 
 ing us fast and fearfully upon apprehended dangers and 
 when the hour had nearly come, that would bear with it 
 destruction to our ship, and probably death to many of its 
 crew, thy voice was heard by the winds ; and at thy mer- 
 ciful mandate they changed their course. Oh God ! we 
 thank THEE, therefore, for our safety. We thank thee, 
 for ourselves, that our day of probation is continued to 
 us ; we thank thee, for our friends, that they will be spared 
 the sorrows of the tidings that our loss would have gath- 
 ered upon them. But may we always remember that our 
 last day, however long our lives may be protracted, will 
 come suddenly upon us. May we therefore use the days 
 that are continued to us in rightful repentance of the past, 
 and in solemn and devoted discipleship to thee for the 
 future ; that whether we die soon and suddenly, or live 
 yet for years and leave the world by a protracted illness, 
 we may be thine thine, through the eternal ages of thy 
 blessed kingdom, through Jesus Christ, our Lord and Sa- 
 viour. Amen." 
 
 We lost sight of the John Adams on the second night 
 of the gale, but joined company again a few days after- 
 wards, and together, on the 16th day of August, entered 
 the Pacific ocean from the China seas. It was a brilliant 
 day over head and a deep blue sea beneath ; and the two 
 ships, with studdingsails set, glided gaily, after the storm, 
 through the pass between the Luzons and the Formosa to 
 the long-desired and bright waters of the Pacific. Such 
 a departure from the olden lands and treacherous seas of 
 the strange Sinices to the ocean of sunny isles is indeed a 
 welcome incident to the tempest-tossed, after having been 
 buffeted by the wild wave and dark winds, and threatened 
 shipwreck among the breakers of a leeward shore. We 
 leave ye, then, seas of the olden land, with willing hearts, 
 but with hearts that will not forget the scenes we there 
 have witnessed and mingled in. And it is with an elation 
 of spirit we enter the blue waters of the placid ocean, as 
 our visions take in the welcome combinations of hopes 
 and happy scenes and anticipated delights that await us, 
 on the re-meeting with our friends at home for, we are 
 now on our return-way to those who will not have forgot- 
 
208 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ten who will give us welcome for, our own yearnings 
 assure us of the coming response of their affectionate 
 hearts. God be thanked for the past and trusted in for 
 the future and hoped in, in all the circumstances of this 
 world and loved through immortality. 
 
 WATER-SPOUT. 
 
 We have been fortunate in witnessing two eclipses, on 
 our voyage, which our friends at home will not have seen. 
 And a peculiar water-spout has added to the number of 
 sights and incidents, which have served, in some degree, 
 to vary the monotony of our tedious passage from the 
 China seas onward, to the port of Honolulu, lying five 
 thousand miles distant, at least, from Macao Roads. The 
 spout passed slowly across our wake, within a few fathoms 
 of our ship, sailing free at the moment, in a still ocean, but 
 with a gentle breeze filling her studdingsails. It descended 
 from a dark cloud in a bent column, apparently six or eight 
 feet in diameter, of a dark misty color, creating an appar- 
 ent commotion at the point ot its contact with the blue 
 bosom of the deep. 
 
 I am confident there was no ascending or descending 
 current of water of greater density than a sudden conden- 
 sation of a small volume of air would produce, which, 
 however, was sufficient, in this instance, to exhibit the ap- 
 pearance of descending currents. But they could only 
 have been strata of heavy mists. Had it been otherwise, 
 the column of water must have possessed a. perpendicular 
 form, and ended suddenly, as the volume of water spent 
 itself. On the contrary, the moving column broke nearly 
 in the centre contracting its ends to a point, and exhibit- 
 ing two cones, with the base of one in the clouds, the base 
 of the other on the sea, and each drifting to the leeward 
 like two narrow, elongated, and tapering clouds of mist. 
 
 But an incident of more interest than that of crossing 
 the equator, or looking the third time upon an eclipse, or 
 water-spout, was our crossing the 180th meridian of lon- 
 gitude ; where and when, unlike the " noble Roman" and 
 Dr. Ruschenberger, who each lamented that he had " lost 
 a day," we, on the contrary, exclaimed that " we had 
 
A VOYAGE AHOUND THE WORLD. 209 
 
 gained a day;" and, adding another Thursday to our 
 reckoning, evidenced the inaccuracy of another verbal 
 fallacy, " that two Thursdays never come together." 
 
 But the curious, the bright, and the terrible, that often 
 meet the voyager on the ocean, have not rendered our pas- 
 sage through the Pacific ocean, thus far, otherwise than a 
 very sad one. It was sincerely hoped, that, so soon as 
 our ship should reach a northern latitude, our sick-list 
 would diminish, and our apparently convalescent cases be- 
 come much improved in health. But the gale we had ex- 
 perienced, and the loss of fresh provisions which had been 
 laid in for the sick, as a consequence of the gale, and the 
 obstinacy and almost incurableness of the disease of the 
 dysentery of the East, made our ship a floating hospital. 
 We left the roads of Macao with more than a hundred 
 and twenty on the sick-list ; and death seemed the only 
 power that diminished the old numbers, while new cases or 
 the recurrence of old ones supplied the vacancies that this 
 perpetual comer among our numbers continued to reduce. 
 
 In one instance, three of our crew have been given to 
 the deep, at the same moment ; in another, two ; and on 
 two or three days at different times of the day, two others. 
 In all, since the time of our leaving the anchorage of Tung 
 Koo, and this day, the 10th of October, on nearing the 
 anchorage-ground, off Honolulu, Sandwich Islands, we 
 have lost twenty-six men. 
 
 But the sight of these fair isles, rising high up, from 
 the placid expanse of the wide and deep ocean, beneath 
 a sky so fair, and a climate so mild and sunny, as this day 
 presents, in the latitude and longitude, and in full sight of 
 the island of Oahu, cheers every heart and delights every 
 anxious mind, in the anticipation of supplying our ships 
 with the necessaries for the sick, and for the recruiting of 
 an exhausted, dwindling, dying crew. 
 
 For myself, I record it, in acknowledgment of the kind- 
 ness of a Providence I would never distrust, that after an 
 illness of three weeks, I am again convalescent, and, in 
 the opinion of our benevolent and Christian surgeon, pre- 
 pared rapidly to be reinstated to usual health, at our pause 
 of a few weeks at these islands, never more welcome to 
 the weather-beaten and distressed, than to us. 
 
210 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 SECTION VIII. 
 
 SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
 HONOLULU. 
 
 Honolulu. Delightful climate. Courteous reception. Call at Mrs. L.'s. 
 Dr. R. and Rev. Mr. S. Rev. Mr. Bingham preaches on board the Co- 
 lumbia. Sixteen thousand natives members of the church. No milk on 
 Sunday. A still Sabbath, to America a national characteristic. Resi- 
 dence on shore. Houses of the missionaries. Natives on their way to 
 their meetings. Rev. Mr. Richards, interpreter to the king. Letter to 
 his Majesty Kammahamaha. Coral church. Native congregation at 
 worship. Tea at Mrs. Deill's. A marriage ; and the marriage party. 
 Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Smith. Sunday on shore. Address to the native con- 
 gregation. The native dress. The natives in the transition state from 
 savage to civilized life. Success of the mission. Disparagement of the 
 missionary action justly to be frowned upon. Tea at Rev. Mr. Bingham's. 
 Night-blooming ceres. Meet his Majesty Kammahamaha at Dr. Judd's, 
 at tea. The king forced to abrogate the temperance law, and admit French 
 brandy into the islands. Impolicy of reviving the ancient games. Messrs. 
 Castle, Knapp, Cook. Mr. Chamberlain and family. Lua at the Pari. 
 Salt lake. Success of the missionary enterprise at the Sandwich Islands. 
 Visit of the French frigate 1'Artemise. Manifesto of the French captain. 
 Protection offered to all foreign residents but the American missionaries 
 an insult to the American citizenship and American rights. Distress of 
 the mission families. Testimony of the officers of the squadron to the 
 disinterested and successful labors of the missionaries. Farewell to the 
 Sandwich Islands. 
 
 OUR ship anchored in the Roads of Honolulu, Thurs- 
 day morning, October the tenth. A sheet of beautiful 
 water spreads out itself between our ship and the coral 
 reefs, over which the surge in its roll curls its white lip, 
 and by a break in the cascading and coruscating foam of 
 the dashing and maddened breakers designates the narrow 
 and still pass between the jutting points of the two reefs, 
 to the inner bosom of the bay. The shore beyond sweeps 
 in a green aslant for miles to the northwest, while the 
 brown lava-peaks rise abruptly back of Honolulu, flanked 
 on the southeast by the truncated cone of Diamond Hill, 
 where once the fires and smoke and associate noise and 
 lava-streams disgorged themselves in volcanic eruptions. 
 Now it sleeps in its stillness and solitude as its rotund and 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 211 
 
 brown sides lie against the horizon, separated from the 
 adjacent peaks, in its further-out position in the sea. And 
 then the valleys indenting these volcanic hills, as they 
 stretch their deep ravines across the island, here and there 
 develop their green sides, which retain their rich and 
 verdant coloring and luxuriousness, under the influence of 
 daily showers, descending from the misty clouds that hang 
 in their perpetual sombre on the highest peaks of the al- 
 most perpendicular and lava-battlements which inwall 
 these deep cuts across the mountains. And the sun is out, 
 in its mild, and here, said to be innoxious beam, throwing 
 his enchantment of smiles over this yet different specimen 
 of the picturesque from what we have elsewhere seen ; 
 while the delicious atmosphere dilates the nostrils of the 
 invalid, at least, with acceptable and never more welcome 
 and revivifying breath. The shipping, including a number 
 of whalers and vessels of lesser tonage than a frigate, lie 
 in the inner harbor, hemmed in and protected seaward by 
 the coral reef; and the town stretches itself on the plain 
 of volcanic cinders and alluvial from the mountains, which 
 forms an extensive area between the base of the mountain 
 and beach, superincumbent on a coral bed. 
 
 I had not intended going on shore until the day or two 
 succeeding our arrival, being myself an invalid ; but an- 
 other death among our crew, making the twenty-seventh 
 since we left Tung Koo bay, occurring in the morning, I 
 accompanied the body a little before sunset to its burial- 
 place on shore. The dock we found crowded with ex- 
 pectant natives, who had learned from the men who dug 
 the grave, that a burial from the ship was to take place. 
 There where a hundred or more of all ages, sizes, and of 
 either sex, waiting the arrival of the boat. I was glad at 
 so early a moment to have an opportunity of seeing such 
 a promiscuous assembly of the natives, exhibiting so favor- 
 able a contrast in their dress and manners to the Malayan 
 population with which we have met in other parts of our 
 cruise. They accompanied the procession of the mariners 
 as they bore their comrade to his grave, advancing through 
 a wide street walled on either side by a line of parapet 
 formed of blocks of dried earth, giving a neat and regular 
 appearance to the street, while the dark material exhibits 
 
 45 
 
212 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the sombre of a greater age than the formation of the ave- 
 nues, through which we passed to that part of the town, 
 where the grave-yard is situated. 
 
 There was an air of simplicity in the manners of this 
 good-natured people, which attracted my observation. Not 
 one unkind face was seen ; and here and there among 
 the group I marked, in the simple manner of expressing 
 their rude affection, several couples walking with the hand 
 of one within the other's, and all apparently enjoying the 
 scene with the natural curiosity of rude minds, but with 
 perfectly respectful demeanor. The grave was surround- 
 ed, as the body was lowered to its rest ; and while a hun- 
 dred voices were heard a moment before, a stillness per- 
 vaded the whole group, so that a whisper could have been 
 heard throughout their number, as I removed my hat and 
 recited the funeral service at the head of another of our 
 men, who first occupies his place here among the dead, 
 only as a forerunner of a number more who will for ever 
 sleep in the volcanic dust of the island we now are visiting. 
 
 The services at the burial being over, two strangers of 
 the foreign residents were introduced to me, one of them 
 handing me a note from an acquaintance, whom I had met 
 in Macao, and now assuring me of a welcome to Honolulu. 
 " Rest assured," says this kind and polite note, which I 
 quote here as evidence of the ever ready courtesies and 
 hospitality tendered by our Christian friends abroad, " I 
 can speak for myself and my missionary friends, that our 
 hearts and houses are always open to welcome the stran- 
 ger, as well as to sympathize with the distressed. It is 
 true we are deprived of the elegancies of life, but we have 
 ever had reason to rejoice in the belief that we were in the 
 way of duty marked out to us by our heavenly Father." 
 The same note informed me that a lady of the mission 
 was acquainted with some of my friends of New- York, 
 and insisted with her husband upon the right of claiming 
 me as their guest during the stay of our ships at the island. 
 
 On returning to the frigate our boat passed the John 
 Adams, lying at anchor. She arrived some hours later 
 than ourselves, this morning, after a separation of about 
 forty days, during which time both ships have been well 
 buffeted by boisterous seas. We were glad to see our 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 213 
 
 consort arriving in the offing, after we had been lying but 
 a few hours at our moorings. 
 
 Several of the gentlemen of the mission were on board 
 the day succeeding our arrival, leaving their names for the 
 Commodore, who had gone ashore to call on the king. 
 They left the ship at an early hour to visit, on their way 
 to the shore, the John Adams, where they were sure to 
 meet with a welcome reception from the gentlemanly of- 
 ficers of the Adams, who have manifested, in no equivo- 
 cal manner, their due appreciation of the missionary char- 
 acter in several of the ports at which we have called on 
 our cruise in the East. The name of the Rev. Mr. Bing- 
 ham has most frequently been before the public in connec- 
 tion with the Sandwich Islands missions, and my interview 
 with him to-day leads me to believe him a devoted, as he 
 has long and very meritoriously exhibited himself to be 
 an unflinching disciple of Jesus Christ. 
 
 The succeeding day, Saturday, I visited the shore, 
 making several calls and dining at Mrs. L/s, who had 
 very kindly sent me an invitation to make her house my 
 home during our stay at this port ; but I deemed my mis- 
 sionary friends to have a prior claim upon me, and there- 
 fore accepted a previous invitation to make my home, 
 whenever I went on shore, at Mr. and Mrs. D.'s. 
 
 Dr. Ruschenberger's book in relation to the islands was 
 very naturally made the topic of conversation. 
 
 For my part, I assured my lady-host, that standing on 
 the high peaks of the mountains back of Honolulu, I 
 should willingly trust myself to the care of Dr. Ruschen- 
 berger, to save me from pitching headlong over the pre- 
 cipice as I gazed on the beautiful sea in the distance and 
 the island scenery about us ; but as for Mr. Stewart, not 
 to him should I trust me in such circumstances, lest to- 
 gether we should pitch down the steep, to the breaking of 
 both our necks. Dr. R. has but little imagination. Mr. 
 Stewart's mind glows in its perceptions of the beautiful 
 of nature. And yet this does not necessarily make Mr. 
 S.'s descriptions less accurate, or Dr. R.'s correct. They 
 might be both true to nature, so far as each, in his own 
 way and with his own eyes, viewed them. But one eye 
 would detect a light and a shade in coloring a tint and 
 
114 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 convolution in a cloud ; a wave in the undulating surface 
 of a field or in the flexible bend of a meadow of grass, 
 and drink in the harmonies of nature through the sight, 
 as the ear taketh in the melodies of sound ; while the 
 other saw not, heard not, felt not. And yet the more de- 
 licate eye and the more sensitive heart, in description, 
 would paint, and truly, what it actually did see, and the 
 emotions actually felt, in view of the perception ; while 
 the other, seeing only one half the first perceived, feels, 
 accordingly, only one half as much, and wonders that the 
 other should be such an enthusiast ; when, in fact, the 
 feelings of the first are only in the same ratio with his 
 perceptions, as were the other's, who saw with but half 
 an eye, and consequently felt with half a heart. 
 
 But delivering my sentiment, I believe, in fewer words 
 than I have employed in repeating it, I perceived an 
 agreeable smile to wreath the lip of Mrs. L., which in- 
 duced me to add, " But I have never seen Dr. R. ; were 
 you acquainted with him ?" 
 
 " He stayed with us when here," was the reply ; " and 
 we found him a very agreeable gentleman," continued 
 Mrs. L., with another of her characteristic and agreeable 
 expressions. 
 
 " Well, then," I continued, " I have no doubt but Dr. 
 R. told you that your boy" (a fine little fellow of three 
 years of age, then sitting at the table) " had a very fine 
 head." 
 
 " Yes, he said so," continued my lady-host ; when we 
 continued to discuss Dr. R.'s excellencies, phrenological 
 acquisitions, etc., very much to our own satisfaction, no 
 doubt, and certainly to the agreeable passing of a half 
 hour in analysis of Dr. R.'s merits as a writer. 
 
 But, in truth, I have not read Dr. Ruschenberger and 
 the Rev. Mr. Stewart's letters, originated by Dr. R.'s 
 work, and therefore, for the time being, excuse myself 
 from taking upon me the duties of an umpire in the case. 
 
 Mrs. L.'s situation is quite a pleasant one, in the cot- 
 tage style, and will be yet more pleasant when yet more 
 shrubbery and folia of taller trees cluster about it and 
 shade the grounds. 
 
 On Sunday, agreeably to an invitation which I had 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 215 
 
 presented to the gentleman of the mission, at the request 
 of Commodore Read, that one of their number should 
 officiate on board the Columbia, the Rev. Mr. Bingham 
 gave us a discourse, in which he stated a fact, which ought 
 to thrill the heart of Christendom and paralyze the tongue 
 of defamation, that about sixteen thousand of the inhabit- 
 ants of these islands have become communicants in the 
 churches, and exhibit evidences of sincerity, as the dis- 
 ciples of Jesus Christ. Among this number are most of 
 the influential chiefs of the islands. And although the 
 nation is but partially enlightened in its advance from the 
 savage state to the civilized, the principles of the gospel 
 have become familiar to their minds and feelings ; and 
 the cases of discipline, regarded as puritanically strict by 
 some when associated with the sect of Christians which 
 is established here, are not more frequent than in the 
 churches of the same denomination, in the United States. 
 Ten thousand of this number have been gathered into the 
 churches, as the fruits of the more than unusual and in- 
 teresting state of feeling on the subject of religion, which 
 has pervaded the population of all the islands during the 
 last two years. 
 
 It was no unequivocal evidence of the change which 
 has been effected in the circumstances and habits of this 
 people, given us by an amusing little incident which oc- 
 curred this morning. In other parts, wherever we have 
 been, in the East, the Sabbath day has been to the people 
 generally, as any other day. The Arabian, the Hindoo, 
 the Singalese, the Malay, and the Chinese, give no consid- 
 eration to the Christian Sabbath ; and their tradesmen 
 work at their several employments. Their shopkeepers 
 deal in their merchandise on this day as much as on any 
 other of the week ; and in their engagements with the 
 European are often unable to tell when the Christian's 
 Sabbath comes, unless they are reminded of it in view of 
 engagements they may be making, and never take it into 
 account without being thus reminded. And the Roman 
 Catholic is not, one would think who has observed their 
 customs abroad, much or at all better in the reverence 
 due to this holy day, who, while they are supposed to re- 
 spect the sacred day of rest, yet turn it into a holiday for 
 
 45* 
 
216 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 amusements and good cheer. In Catholic European 
 countries we know that it is the principal day for frequent- 
 ing the theatres and other places of amusement, par- 
 ticularly thrown open on Sunday for the supposed benefit 
 of the populace. And in South America and in the East 
 I have seen the Sabbath day, which terminated the gala- 
 season of some favorite saint, devoted to the pomp of 
 parade, and concluded by an exhibition of fireworks the 
 discharge of sky-rockets and crackers for the amusement 
 and amid the carousal of the mob in front of the temple- 
 gates. 
 
 It was a delightful contrast, then, this Sabbath morn- 
 ing, which was presented to our ship, as she slept in her 
 loneliness and quiet on the bosom of these waters, amid 
 the calm and the rest of a Sabbath-day morning. Not 
 one native boat was alongside, and a stillness pervaded, 
 where heretofore, each Sunday morning we have been in 
 the ports of the East, the chatter of a hundred native 
 voices has greeted the ear. 
 
 Our market-boat, which had been sent to the shore, 
 ere long arrived alongside, and before I had left my room, 
 I heard a murmur of displeasure about " no milk having 
 been procured." As my boy called me to breakfast, 
 "Smith," I asked, "have you gotten no milk this morning?" 
 " No milk, sir, this morning the missionaries will not let 
 it come off." 
 
 " The missionaries, dunce !" I exclaimed, with a half- 
 suppressed smile, " what have the missionaries to do with 
 it?" 
 
 " Don't know, sir, but they say the missionaries" 
 
 Here my boy seemed to perceive the ridiculousness of the 
 complaint against the missionaries, which, if true, the fact 
 told volumes in their favor, of the happy influence they 
 had brought to bear upon the public sentiment of this com- 
 munity, and he left his sentence unfinished. 
 
 The subject was a matter of remark at the table ; and 
 while it was proposed, either in ill-will or sport, that a 
 boat should be ordered off from the shore, it was conceded 
 that things were in fact as they should be, on the Sabbath 
 day, and that the influence of Christian principles here was 
 not only holy, but truly American, in contrast with scenes 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 that have attended us during our whole course, since we 
 left our native land. And if there were no other consid- 
 eration than that of preserving a striking and beautiful na- 
 tional characteristic, the American should ever be an ad- 
 vocate for a quiet, restful, Christian Sabbath. 
 
 Our steward had relied on the shore-boats for milk, but 
 such has been, and is, the influence of the missionary ac- 
 tion at this island, that no boats are seen moving from the 
 shore on the Sabbath morning, or to it, save from the 
 ships, for attendance of religious services at the seamen's 
 chapel. 
 
 But not only is the observance of the Sabbath here 
 more purely American, as well as Christian, than we have 
 found it elsewhere since we left the United States ; it is 
 also true that other things harmonize with the un per verted 
 tastes of a citizen of the land of our homes. The very 
 beef, turkeys and other poultry, potatoes and other vegeta- 
 bles, taste like the same articles we have eaten in the 
 United States. All perceive this, and relish it accordingly, 
 in contrast with the less agreeably flavored articles pro- 
 cured in the Indies. Even for these four days, during 
 which we have been at the Sandwich Islands, we have 
 thus been often and agreeably carried back in our memo- 
 ries to the homes of our infancy. 
 
 On Monday I took up my residence on shore with my 
 stranger-friends, Mr. and Mrs. Dimond, to the neglect of 
 invitations from others of the foreign residents, to whom 
 my acknowledgments are due, that I might be more im- 
 mediately in the neighborhood and circle of the missiona- 
 ry families. 
 
 The residences of the missionaries are generally two- 
 story dwellings, built of coral-rock, with narrow piazzas 
 in front. The premises had been yet more pleasant had 
 the piazzas been wider, and the roofs of the buildings ex- 
 tended proportionally, for yielding an acceptable shade in 
 a warm climate. All the houses of the mission families 
 have more or less shrubbery in their yards, and shade, 
 from the very beautiful and gaudy mimosa, as I took the 
 plant to be, down to the favorite little rosa vincula, which 
 flourishes luxuriantly here, and without an abundance of 
 water, which is a consideration, as the soil is of such a 
 
218 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 nature, in its capacity for absorption of moisture, that it 
 makes the irrigation of plants even of a small plot of 
 ground a considerable labor, with the few conveniences 
 and water advantages enjoyed for the purpose. 
 
 The ladies of the mission deserve credit for the beauti- 
 fying of the grounds about their houses so far as they have 
 fone, as I am informed that the praise of what has been 
 one is principally due to them ; and it is certainly a 
 thought worthy of consideration, that the lots possessed by 
 the mission should be thus improved and adorned by the 
 beauties of nature, tending, as such improvements do, to 
 the health of a family of children, the refinement of their 
 feelings, and the cultivation of their tastes. It is said that 
 flowers about the hut of a savage is a sure evidence that 
 there is some advance of civilization within, beyond that 
 of others of the tribe. And the garland of ferns and the 
 beetel flower, and other green and flowery chaplets that 
 are here sometimes seen to wreath the tawny brow of the 
 lowest of these Sandwich Islanders, while it may serve to 
 render the deficit costume of the poorer native yet more 
 glaring and laughable to the unphilosophic eye, yet de- 
 clares that the least civilized among these people have ad- 
 vanced one step on the scale of refinement in feeling and 
 of elevation in social life. And when each native shall 
 have a small bed of flowers, or a single flower-pot cher- 
 ishing a choice shrub at the door of his thatched hut, he 
 will exhibit proof of having taken an additional step in 
 the path of civilization and refinement of feeling, harmo- 
 nizing with the legitimate tendencies of Christian princi- 
 ples. And thus should the native be encouraged to have 
 his little border of the rosa vincula as well as his larger 
 patch of kalo. 
 
 From my window at Mr. D.'s the Columbia is seen 
 lying in full view, and near enough for her colors to be 
 designated by the naked eye, while between her anchorage 
 in the roads and the shore the surf breaks in its eternal 
 voice and monotony, and long line of untarnished white. 
 And in the heavy swell of the open roadstead, even at this 
 distance, the frigate is sometimes seen to lie in a state of 
 unrest, as her trucks mark their curve lines on the azure 
 above them. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 219 
 
 It is a more interesting view, however, to see, from my 
 window, the crowds of the natives on their way to the ear- 
 ly morning meeting, to which the church bell has summoned 
 them, at the break of day. One of the churches is a short 
 distance beyond the residence of Mr. D., and my window 
 commands it, with the intervening area. The building 
 itself is an immense thing for the space it covers, con- 
 structed of upright poles and cross-ribs, to which thatch- 
 work of grass is attached externally, of which material the 
 roof is likewise composed. This building inwalls an area 
 of twelve thousand square feet, and allowing three square 
 feet for each attendant, will give seats for four thousand 
 natives, as they place themselves upon their mats, which 
 constitute the floor. The introduction of seats in different 
 parts of the building diminishes the capacity of the build- 
 ing by some few hundreds. A number of doors form the 
 entrances into this spacious area, which also serve in this 
 mild climate for lighting the building. Thither, for morn- 
 ing prayers, the natives gather in large numbers ere the 
 sun has yet come up over the high peaks of the island- 
 mountains, though he may be shining on their eastern 
 ranges, and on the ocean beyond them. And here too, 
 during this week, in attendance on " a protracted meet- 
 ing," the natives are seen gathering twice at other hours 
 of the day. And when the services are over, they stream, 
 in vast numbers, from every door of the spacious building, 
 in order and propriety, returning to their homes. No 
 noise, or the loud laugh is heard, but stillness and a gentle 
 demeanor, not often so universal in a higher state of civil- 
 ization, prevail, as the crowd floats along the streets to 
 their humble residences. , 
 
 At dinner I met the Rev. Mr. Richards, who has ac- 
 cepted the appointment of interpreter to the king and in- 
 structer of the adult chiefs. 
 
 On a late visit to the United States, Mr. Richards con- 
 veyed proposals from the king and his chiefs, for some 
 Christian and philanthropic member of the bar to visit the 
 Sandwich Islands, for the purpose of giving instruction in 
 political economy and jurisprudence, and the general sci- 
 ence of law, for the benefit of the rulers of this nation, and 
 for the better organization of its laws and development of 
 
220 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 its resources. Mr. Richards found it impossible, at the 
 time, to procure such a person, to the regret of the mission 
 and the disappointment of the chiefs. But, the chiefs said 
 on further consideration, " we are glad that you have been 
 unsuccessful in your application. It would have taken 
 such a person, had you found one, some years to acquire 
 such a knowledge of our language, as would enable us to 
 understand him. But you already have a knowledge of 
 the language, and we can converse with you and under- 
 stand you as one of our own number. You, therefore, must 
 take this duty upon yourself, and we will support you." 
 
 This was an entirely unexpected proposition to Mr. R., 
 from the chiefs ; and not once dreaming of entering upon 
 such a task, he had brought no works with him which he 
 might need for this purpose from the United States ; and 
 besides, it being contrary to the instructions of the Board 
 of missions, that their missionaries should connect them- 
 selves at all with any government, near which they might 
 reside, Mr. R. still hesitated. But the subject being one 
 of great importance at this particular point of the nation's 
 circumstances, in their advance from the savage state to 
 the civilized, when the chiefs have felt the influences of 
 Christianity, and mostly become conscientious in their de- 
 sires of acting right and of advancing in civilization as 
 well as in morals, they need the light they now have not, 
 to inform their judgments, and for the suggestion of cor- 
 rect principles, to enable them to mature those plans which 
 shall most rapidly and successfully advance the nation in 
 civilization, and develop, for national and individual pros- 
 perity, the resources of the island. 
 
 In view of these considerations, Mr. R. was finally in- 
 duced to accede to the wishes of the chiefs ; and feeling 
 the embarrassment that the instructions of the Board to 
 their missionaries to abstain from all interference with the 
 affairs of the government might occasion him, or that he 
 might be deemed as transgressing the letter of these in- 
 structions by accepting the appointment, he sent in his 
 resignation to the Board on entering upon the duties of 
 his station. His connection therefore with the Board of 
 missions has ceased, while his sympathies necessarily con- 
 tinue with the missionaries ; and with them, in his present 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 221 
 
 situation, is he endeavoring to advance the people to the 
 possession of those institutions which characterize a Chris- 
 tian and civilized nation. His responsibility for his further 
 action is now to the chiefs, to his own country at home, 
 and to his God. And it is to be hoped that he will have 
 the independence, decision of character, and the wisdom 
 to act as the present necessities of the people or any 
 unforeseen circumstance of the nation may require. I 
 consider Mr. Richards a gentleman well qualified for the 
 position he occupies. His amiableness will secure his pop- 
 ularity with the chiefs ; his piety, a conscientious course ; 
 and his familiarity with the national circumstances, his 
 aptness to acquire from books the principles applicable to 
 a nation's greatest prosperity, together with his practical 
 knowledge of the character of the people and the motives 
 that will most successfully influence them, will all enable 
 him at once to comprehend the ground upon which he 
 stands the obstacles in the way the object to be aimed 
 at and the most successful means for securing it. 
 
 It was my privilege, after the period of which I am now 
 speaking, to have many conversations with Mr. R. And 
 in this connection, although I have as yet but simply men- 
 tioned the KING of the Sandwich Islands, with whom I 
 afterwards frequently met on occasions yet to be described, 
 I choose to introduce the following note, sent to his ma- 
 jesty just previous to our leaving his islands ; and after I 
 had enjoyed ample opportunity of seeing and becoming in- 
 terested in the action here put forth by the missionaries for 
 the Christian and intellectual improvement of his subjects. 
 
 HONOLULU, October 18th, 1839. 
 To His Majesty Kammahamaha III. 
 
 The American people have heard much of the king, 
 chiefs, and people of the Sandwich Islands. It is a high 
 gratification to the writer that he now has the pleasure of 
 visiting your majesty's possessions, and to mark the ad- 
 vance of institutions of which he has heard much and with 
 which he has not been disappointed, by his inspection of 
 them since his arrival at this place. 
 
 Your majesty will believe me when I assure you that, 
 at home, the missionaries to your possessions have the con- 
 
222 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 fidence of the American nation ; and that the American 
 government gives your majesty its cordial wishes for the 
 advance of every valuable institution tending to the pro- 
 motion of intelligence, morals, and the Christian religion 
 among your subjects. That I may evince to your ma- 
 jesty my own feelings of interest, I herewith beg you to 
 accept " Kent's Commentaries," a work in four volumes, 
 which contain the collected knowledge of one of our 
 greatest men and most able jurists, who has, for his learn- 
 ing and his worth, the confidence and admiration of the 
 people of the United States. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Richards, who I am happy to learn has 
 accepted the appointment as your majesty's interpreter, 
 will find these volumes of great service in illustrating 
 the great and general principles of the laws of civilized 
 nations ; and be enabled, so far as they may be applicable 
 in forming the jurisprudence of your majesty's government, 
 to present to your majesty's consideration the interesting 
 subjects on which these volumes treat. 
 
 Most assuredly and cordially, and with great respect, 
 Your friend, 
 
 FITCH W. TAYLOR, 
 Chaplain U. S. frigate Columbia. 
 
 P. S. The Rev. Mr. Taylor having heard that Mr. 
 Richards has just received a set of " Kent's Commenta- 
 ries,"* begs leave to substitute a set of English History, 
 in nine volumes, in the place of the Commentaries, which 
 he proposed to send as evidence of the assured interest he 
 takes in his majesty's happiness, and the mental and reli- 
 gious welfare of his majesty's people 
 
 Besides the large building already described, which 
 occupies the southern end of the town in the neighbor- 
 hood of the missionary residences, there is a newer and 
 better edifice, of equal" dimensions, with neat dobie walls 
 and glazed windows in the northern part of the town, 
 
 * By an arrival of a vessel from the U. S. the day after writing 
 the preceding letter. The same vessel brought an account of the 
 Board's acceptance of Mr. R.'s resignation as a member of the mis- 
 sion. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 223 
 
 where a congregation usually gather at the same hours as 
 at the other. This congregation is under the care of the 
 Rev. Mr. Smith the other is under the pastoral charge 
 of the Rev. Mr. Bingham. The usual number of the con- 
 gregations attending at these two native churches, at the 
 same hour, varies from twenty-five hundred to three thou- 
 sand each. 
 
 A new church is being erected for Mr. Bingham's 
 congregation, on a large scale, and of durable materials. 
 The walls of heavy blocks of coral rock are already car- 
 ried up some twenty feet or more. The building is one 
 hundred and fifty-four feet by seventy-eight, and with gal- 
 leries will accommodate three to four thousand people. 
 It is no larger than is desirable for the congregation ; and 
 when finished will be a building very creditable to the 
 place, and do honor to this interesting island-nation, now 
 in its transition state from barbarism to civilized life. And 
 few things will tend more rapidly to advance the people 
 on the scale of civilization than such works, while they 
 add permanency to the Christian institutions which they 
 have adopted among them. For the erection of this 
 building, the king subscribed three thousand dollars, and 
 the chiefs and people twenty-five hundred dollars more. 
 The materials for building this spacious edifice are brought 
 from a coral formation, where the blocks are quarried. 
 At first it was proposed by the chiefs that these blocks 
 should be conveyed as burdens generally are, or have 
 been, upon the shoulders of the natives, with the simple 
 use of the pole. But a simple invention of wheels, and 
 an experiment with the assistance of a yoke of oxen at- 
 tended by a boy, soon convinced the natives that a simple 
 dray would save them the labor of a thousand men. 
 And it is thus that this people are daily acquiring the 
 knowledge necessary for the advance of a community in 
 all improvements, and to appreciate the power of that 
 knowledge. And when this building shall have been 
 completed, it will have shown the king and chiefs, and 
 the Hawaiian people, that they have resources that they 
 never dreamed of; and advance them in self-possession 
 and dignity of character in proportion to this new con- 
 sciousness of their capabilities and power. 
 
 46 
 
224 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The progress in the erection of this building has been 
 interrupted by a late incident (the visit of the French fri- 
 gate 1'Artemise) at this place, which will receive the ani- 
 madversion, and I trust just censure, of the writer, in the 
 sequel of this sketch of his visit to the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 The site for this church edifice is a good one, though 
 occupying the plain ; and the proportions of the structure 
 are in keeping. I should have altered some particulars 
 in the model, but it is interesting as it now is, as showing 
 its paternity. The New Englander will at once recognise 
 its origin, in its walls broken by double rows of small 
 windows, instead of the continuous Gothic or elongated 
 Corinthian. The additional strength gained, and the char- 
 acteristic language of its model, would at once prevent 
 the suggestion of change, and at the same time render 
 undesirable any alteration in the proportions of the inter- 
 esting fabric. 
 
 I happened in to the native church, in the afternoon. 
 What a scene was that which I witnessed ! I never 
 dreamed of seeing such, though I had read and thought 
 much of missions, and seen much on our cruise around 
 the world. But here were before me near two thousand 
 worshipping disciples of Jesus Christ, in their own native 
 building, which their own hands had erected and thatched. 
 It was one of the native prayer-meetings of the two churches, 
 during the session of a conference or protracted meeting 
 of this week. A native prayed, reverently, in the soft 
 and expressive language of the people, with a measured 
 intonation, and sometimes with a repetition of words that 
 struck the ear with the agreeableness of rhythm. A hymn 
 was sung. A number, twelve or more, of the female na- 
 tives were in front of the pulpit, and as many of the males, 
 constituting together a choir, on the level of the congre- 
 gation, without the usual separation and formalities. Their 
 singing was agreeable, and the performance creditable. 
 Having familiarized myself with the pronunciation of the 
 Hawaiian language, I joined in the tune. A second prayer 
 was offered by the Rev. Mr. Bingham, in the native lan- 
 guage. Having turned a leaf that I might remember the 
 hymn that was sung, I left the church at the conclusion 
 of the prayer. I came to my room, not far distant from 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 225 
 
 the church, to muse in memory of the scene I had left. 
 What hath not God done ! A nation become a religious 
 people, who were but late the worshippers of idols and 
 the advocates of human sacrifices and before me I had 
 just seen nearly two thousand of them worshipping the 
 God of Christians. Will that God forsake them, in their 
 attempts to please him, however rude may be their first 
 essays towards attainments in knowledge and reformation 
 in morals ? I think he will not. 
 
 In the evening I took tea with Mrs. Deill, the lady of 
 the seamen's chaplain, at the port of Honolulu. 
 
 The succeeding morning I called with Mrs. D. on the 
 families of the English and French consuls. Mrs. Dudoit, 
 the lady of the French consul, is deemed among the pret- 
 tiest of the foreign residents here, and is said to be as 
 amiable as pretty ; and Miss C., the sprightly daughter of 
 the English consul, is almost the only unmarried young 
 lady among the fair exotics of Honolulu, and has been but 
 a short time in the island from " home." 
 
 MARRIAGE AT HONOLULU. 
 
 Thursday evening was an era in the little world of the 
 foreign residents, I suppose, at least in that part of it over 
 which the nuptial divinities claim empire. A marriage in 
 Honolulu I should think an unfrequent occurrence among 
 the foreign population. The wedding party, then, of Mrs. 
 Little, now Mrs. Hooper, became an interesting incident, 
 and the parties most particularly concerned seem to have 
 timed the period of their union with some reference to the 
 visit of our squadron, which we certainly should appreciate 
 as a compliment. A few particular friends, the American 
 consul, and Captain Wyman of the John Adams, were 
 present at the ceremony, performed by the chaplain of the 
 squadron. Nearly all the foreign residents, soon after, 
 were in the rooms. I was particularly pleased with the 
 entrance of the governor of the island, who advanced to 
 the bride and gave her his hand, and then, successively, to 
 the other ladies and gentlemen in the room, and with an 
 ease and a grace that was not surpassed by the entree of 
 any gentleman during the evening. There may have been 
 
226 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the smallest spice imaginable of the hauteur militaire in his 
 movement, which however did not diminish his ease, but 
 in his circumstances of office and rank, and being the only 
 native present in the crowd of foreigners, with every eye 
 for a moment fixed upon him, did him credit. The king 
 was absent, on the plea of illness. The governor left 
 the rooms early, and Commodore Read, who is doing him- 
 self credit at these islands, also soon disappeared, with 
 the considerate dignity of his high command ; while the 
 party seemed to arrange themselves in groups of easy 
 guests, though, as is not unfrequently the case in many 
 parties, there may have been too much clustering of the 
 sexes into their separate classes. 
 
 The American Consul introduced the officers of the 
 squadron ; and with a degree of home feeling and famil- 
 iarity, did credit to himself and the position he holds. Ere 
 long he was absent, for attention to his ill family. 
 
 The bride, an interesting young widow lady, was pret- 
 ty, as all brides are, and more than what is true of all 
 other brides, in this instance, is a tasteful and clever wo- 
 man. 
 
 The succeeding evening I took tea with Mr. and Mrs. 
 Smith. Most of the missionary families were present dur- 
 ing the evening. The Rev. Mr. Bishop, from Ewa, ar- 
 rived to-day, from whom I had previously received a let- 
 ter. He was my early instructor in the academy at Lau- 
 renceville, N. J. He is a worthy man, well informed, and 
 has improved in interest, though here comparatively iso- 
 lated. There is sterling worth in intellect and feeling in 
 his character. The evening was spent in agreeable con- 
 versation. Scientific subjects are not unfamiliar to the 
 members of the mission, as well as the religious and the 
 intellectual of other departments. Several of the mission- 
 ary ladies here have handsome collections of shells, and 
 specimens in mineralogy and geology, with lavas and cu- 
 riosities associated with the islands of the Pacific. And 
 though there is but very little of the " azure hose or blue 
 stocking club" discernible in the conversation of these 
 women, occasionally they may venture to hint the scien- 
 tific name of some shell, when exhibited as 'a beautiful spe- 
 cimen in conchology. Some of them show themselves 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 227 
 
 creditably familiar with several branches in the natural 
 sciences ; and I have been told, otherwise I should not have 
 learned it from the retiring manners of the lady in ques- 
 tion, that one of their number, at least, is familiar with 
 Latin, Greek, and Hebrew. 
 
 Mrs. S., my interesting hostess of the evening, showed 
 me some pretty impressions of plants taken by herself, 
 and an orange cowry, a shell I have never before seen, 
 but have made many and unsuccessful inquiries for. 
 
 The residence of this missionary family is in the northern 
 part of the town near the church of the second congrega- 
 tion, of which the Rev. Mr. S. is pastor. It is a very plea- 
 sant situation, in full view of the luxuriant and beautiful 
 valley, which stretches quite across the island, terminating 
 at the further end, by the abrupt and storied precipice of 
 the Pari. Mrs. S., with her fine susceptibilities to the beau- 
 tiful in nature, appreciates and enjoys the view, and de- 
 scribes it with correspondent feelings. She would wonder 
 that any eye could behold it and not kindle equally with 
 her own. 
 
 The social interview was terminated by singing, prayer, 
 and a few remarks naturally awakened by the circum- 
 stances of the meeting. It was not the worship of mere 
 ceremony. It was the expression of mutual sympathies, 
 at a welcome and social moment, when hearts blended 
 their feelings in a thank-offering of worship to the God who 
 has made us religious, and intellectual, and social beings. 
 
 The more disinterested, and the more worthy, and the 
 more persecuted does this band of benevolent men and 
 women appear to me, the more I hear, and learn, and see 
 of them. 
 
 A SABBATH AT HONOLULU. 
 
 Sunday, the succeeding day but one, and the only Sabr 
 bath I spent on shore at Honolulu, may never be forgot 
 ten by me. I preached twice in the seamen's chapel to 
 attentive congregations. The foreign residents and the 
 missionaries attend the services of the chapel the native 
 services being so arranged by the missionaries as to admit 
 of it. But the service the most peculiar, and which will 
 
 46* 
 
228 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 leave the longest impression upon myself, was the meeting 
 I attended in the large church of the natives. The spa- 
 cious building was filled when I reached the house. I 
 walked through a long range of these Hawaiians, as I as- 
 cended from the door, crowded thick upon the mats and 
 filling the whole area, or were arranged upon their seats 
 occupying the more central part of the building. As I 
 entered the pulpit, already occupied by the Rev. Mr. Bing- 
 ham and the Rev. Mr. Richards, I looked over a congre- 
 gation of near three thousand of these worshipping island- 
 ers. What a scene was this for a Christian to contem- 
 plate in a foreign land, where the same people a few years 
 before were a heathen and a savage nation ! And before 
 me, now, were some who had witnessed, and one, at least, 
 who had been the cause of human sacrifices, to propitiate 
 and atone for a broken tabu, which human blood alone 
 could satisfy. A hymn was sung ; after which I gave the 
 congregation an address, which was interpreted, sentence 
 by sentence, with such facility by Mr. Bingham, that there 
 seemed but a little break in the continuance of the discourse. 
 It was still throughout the house. Attention was arrested, 
 and held. I repeat not here even the substance of the ad- 
 dress, but I assured the islanders that it was happiness for 
 a stranger, from a far land, to witness them worshipping the 
 same God he worshipped the same Redeemer the same 
 sanctifying Spirit. " Their friends, the missionaries," I 
 continued, '' who were also our friends, had told us much 
 in their letters sent from the islands, but they had not said 
 all that I, that day, beheld before me. In America, they 
 prayed for the Hawaiians. They prayed for the missiona- 
 ries among them. The missionaries had left their homes, 
 and friends, and many comforts for long years ; and we, 
 who in our ships have been absent from our homes, which 
 are in the same land they left, though but for one year and 
 a half, yet feel how dear that home is to us, and therefore 
 can estimate how much these our missionary friends have 
 been willing to leave for the love of Christ, to spend a life- 
 time of labor among you. In America, therefore, we give 
 them our prayers we give them our Christian love we 
 give them our confidence we give them, sometimes, 
 when we think of them so far away, our tears. But we 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 229 
 
 also are happy that they are among you, doing their duty 
 where they think God has directed them to come. Will 
 you not, therefore, more than ever, listen to their words ? 
 Will you not be more grateful that they have told you 
 of the immortal soul the thing within us which thinks, 
 and loves, and is happy, or is sad, and wishes to be happy 
 still and for ever, when the body shall have gone back to 
 its dust? Hawaiians, these missionaries have brought you 
 things worth more than gold more than gems more 
 than silver dollars more than pearls they have told you 
 how to save for ever this immortal pearl within you ; and 
 how, millions of years hence, if Christians, ye shall live 
 on and be happy with the undying saints in heaven, where 
 God shall give to them his friendship as he gives it to his 
 angels. Will ye not then hear them ? 
 
 " I am glad that I can talk with you, through my friend, 
 though I do not understand your language. But I must not 
 talk longer with you. Yet would I ask of you, who are 
 professors of religion, will you give me your prayers? 
 Our ships will soon again leave you, as we go on our way 
 around the world to our homes. We came not to disturb 
 you. We came to approve of your religious worship, and 
 to tell you so. And when I reach America, I shall tell the 
 Christians there that I have met those who love God among 
 the Hawaiians that I have heard them pray to our God 
 sing in our own hymns and tunes and that I have shed 
 my tears while I have beheld the sight, and thanked God 
 for permitting me to behold it. I shall never be with you 
 again. Christian Hawaiians, through this house ! here in 
 your temple I shall not meet you again, but hope to meet 
 you in heaven. Farewell ! But when I shall have reach- 
 ed America, I will not forget you. I will not forget how 
 I have heard you pray, sing, and worship. I will not for- 
 get your green valleys your home in the islands in the 
 seas. I will not forget these missionary friends ; but when 
 the sun wakes up over the hills, and when it goes down 
 in the ocean, I will pray for them and for you. Hawaii- 
 ans, farewell ! Hold fast the religion you love. Let a 
 world, if it will, rage. Still hold ye on to the religion of 
 Jesus Christ. The world will soon crumble to nothing. 
 These mountains and this ocean shall soon be burned up, 
 
230 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and then you will want the friendship of Christ. Hold 
 on, then, to the religion of Jesus Christ ! And when hea- 
 ven and earth pass away, you shall find Him to be to you 
 more than an elder brother your Redeemer, and your 
 all. Hawaiians, farewell !" 
 
 I offer no apology for introducing this brief sketch of 
 part of the address alluded to, in the form I here present 
 it, and in which, amid the circumstances described, it was 
 delivered. It will more naturally paint the scene that was 
 presented before me, than otherwise could be done. When 
 I had ended my address, Mr. Richards spoke briefly and 
 feelingly to the congregation. A hymn was then sung, in 
 a melody that could not but touch the heart of him, with 
 any feeling, who for the first time looked on such a scene 
 as this. And while my own was melting, I thought if ever 
 there were a just cause for indignation, it was while hear- 
 ing flippant man, as sometimes he has been heard, decry- 
 ing the holy and self-denying men and women who have 
 here been laboring for years to produce the astonishing 
 and glorious effects which I now beheld before me. And 
 never did virtue more justly frown on vice, than wakes 
 the voice of benevolence in displeasure when contempla- 
 ting the vicious defamation which self-interest, jealous 
 tratfic, and depravity of heart, at times indulge against 
 such demonstrations of the righteous work of God's chil- 
 dren, who advocate the religion of Jesus Christ in its pu- 
 rity and practice. 
 
 On attempting to leave the church, at the conclusion of 
 the services, I found it impossible to proceed for a while, as 
 the warm-hearted natives pressed around me to give me 
 their hands ; but moving slowly as I accepted the proffered 
 demonstration of their interest on either side of me, as I 
 passed, I finally broke through their gathered numbers. 
 And when I had reached my room, but a short distance 
 from the church, which overlooks the grounds in the neigh- 
 borhood, I gazed, with a feasted eye and a full heart, on 
 the streams of men, women, and children, flowing from 
 every door of the large building, and directing their way 
 to their homes, in the quiet and orderly walk of the respect- 
 ful, who give consideration and conscientious observance 
 to the Sabbath day. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 231 
 
 All were decently clad, but in such a manner and variety 
 of costume, in coloring and in material, as to interest the 
 beholder, and to declare the transition state of the natives, 
 in their passage from their original savage to civilized life. 
 Here was a passing group, one of whom perhaps was clad 
 in a deep orange-colored gown, with a bright yellow wrap- 
 per around the waist, knotted behind by the upper corners, 
 so as to form something like an apron, while the dark bushy 
 hair was filleted with a wreath of yellow flowers or a roll 
 of yellow feathers, constituting a costly ornament for the 
 head or neck of the female native. Another, in the same 
 group, has thrown a large purple tappa around him, knot- 
 ted over one of his shoulders after the style of the Roman 
 toga, and discovering a white shirt beneath, with a chaplet 
 of ferns circling his head, while his dark neck and lower 
 limbs are left in the freeness and bareness of a Highland 
 chief's. Again, a light blue silk shawl covers a white 
 frock, with a small straw bonnet upon the head ; or a crim- 
 son shawl over a blue calico dress, with a similar hat. 
 Indeed, almost all the females wear a straw bonnet on the 
 Sabbath, which is manufactured upon the islands ; and I 
 am not certain but that the chaplet of leaves or flowers to 
 which I have alluded is only a week-day ornament. And 
 here, again, is seen an old man with a long staff in his 
 hand, and with feeble step, clad in a simple white dress of 
 tappa, the native material of the island, made often beau- 
 tifully from the bark of the mulberry, now wending his 
 way from a Christian temple, in deep thought and musings, 
 unlike those that attended him from the revel and the sac- 
 rifice of former days. Arid there, the light-hearted group 
 of children, in every color of stripe and figure of silk or 
 cotton, or tappa of coarser or richer material, move on, 
 with free and bounding step. And there, the governor, in 
 his blue cloth frock-coat and white pantaloons, and straw 
 hat, is seen, attended by a little boy in his dress of frock- 
 coat and white trousers, and shoes and stockings ; and a 
 little girl, in black frock and white pantalettes and jockey 
 hat, all undistinguished from a well-dressed group of Eu- 
 ropeans, accompanied by a train of more indifferently clad 
 attendants. Many others were in European style, among 
 the males and females the loose gown, and shawl, and 
 
232 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 bonnet being the common dress for the female natives. 
 And one group more may serve to fill up the picture. It 
 is the principal woman of the islands. She is drawn by 
 four or five natives, in a small hand-vehicle, with two 
 wheels, not unlike a porter's hand-cart, but a convenient 
 carriage on a plain and smooth path for the principal lady 
 of the islands, who is more than six feet high, and weighs 
 I know not how much. Her dress is European the 
 expression of her face good-natured and her signature 
 required to give validity to the acts of the king and his 
 chiefs. Her son is the adopted heir-apparent to the gov- 
 ernment of the islands, and she has in charge the infant 
 child, who holds, as queen, the same position in the govern- 
 ment as does his present majesty as king. 
 
 But as the eye lingers on this moving crowd, as they 
 are seen retiring from the house of worship to their homes, 
 presenting so great variety in their dress, they are yet all 
 decently clad, and move at their ease in stillness and pro- 
 priety, and exhibit evidences of great, though as yet a rude 
 contentment and happiness. 
 
 How great is the contrast ! How unlike the picture 
 the same people exhibited but a few years ago ! Another 
 congregation of eqtfal size, at the other end of the town, 
 was dispersing from the house of worship to which they 
 had gathered, in like order, decency, and rude respecta- 
 bility. The wide avenue, extending for a half mile be- 
 tween the two churches, seemed crowded by the meeting 
 throng. 
 
 But it would require the Christian community at home 
 to see, as I have seen to-day, the worshipping thousands 
 of the Hawaiians, duly to appreciate the scene. Over the 
 same congregation of these islanders which I had addressed, 
 the eye of the Christian could look, in late months, as they 
 gathered for worship, and see, not as an u/ifrequent scene, 
 half the congregation in tears, as the preacher declared 
 to them the truths which have been borne to their under- 
 standings, through the labors of the devoted missionary, 
 during the few past years. They bowed their heads in 
 sorrow for their sinfulness with religious sympathies, in 
 view of the affecting story of the plan of salvation and 
 resolved to be the disciples of Jesus Christ. And to this 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 233 
 
 church, more than four hundred have been added, on pro- 
 fession of religion, during the last year; and more than 
 six hundred to the communion in the second church ; and 
 more than ten thousand, in all, to the churches on the dif- 
 ferent islands. And the whole number of the communi- 
 cants in the different churches of the mission amounts to 
 more than sixteen thousand souls. The mission has thus 
 been blessed, by an outpouring of the Spirit of God upon 
 its churches, and the ingathering of thousands to the 
 communion. At Hilo, on a neighboring island, five thou- 
 sand two hundred and forty-four have, this last year, 
 joined the church. And at Waimea, on the same island 
 of Hawaii, twenty-three hundred more. Surely, the 
 heart that has any Christian sympathies for the cause of 
 Christ, or the eternal welfare of his fellow-men, must glow 
 in view of this statement ; and the lover of the mission- 
 ary cause may exult in gratitude to the Giver of all good, 
 for this triumphant exhibition of the success of Christ's 
 cause among the heathen. And tell me, Christian reader, 
 while the grateful tear wakes in memory of the goodness 
 of God to your own soul, and in boundless mercies to these 
 once and but lately benighted savages, can you feel other- 
 wise than an abhorrence at the slang of the infidel and 
 the opposer, who are sometimes heard, either from self- 
 interest or hate, to decry so worthy a cause and so wor- 
 thy a band of devoted men and women, who have bless- 
 ed, by their residence and efforts, at the sacrifice of friends 
 and home, the whole people of these islands ? Believe 
 me, this mission is worthy of the confidence of the Chris- 
 tian community at home ; and as surely as the smile of 
 God has rested so signally upon it, so surely it will receive 
 the confidence and the support of the Christians in Ameri- 
 ca. And I trust, as an Episcopalian, my testimony of 
 confidence and commendation and deep-felt interest in 
 behalf of this Congregational and Presbyterian mission 
 to the Sandwich Islands will not be regarded, under such 
 circumstances, the less unbiased and sincere. 
 
234 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 VISITS TO THE DIFFERENT MISSIONARY FAMILIES. 
 
 On each succeeding evening of this week I took tea 
 with some one of the missionary families, accepting their 
 kind invitations in that way that would enable me to make 
 each an evening's visit before we left Honolulu. Usually 
 I met some of the officers of the squadron present, and 
 some of the gentlemen and ladies of the mission or of 
 the foreign residents. The families of the mission resi- 
 dent at Honolulu are sufficiently numerous to form an in- 
 teresting circle within themselves. 
 
 The day I first called on Mr. and Mrs. Bingham was 
 the twentieth anniversary of the day they together enter- 
 ed a stage coach at Hartford, Connecticut, for Boston, 
 whence they soon after took their departure for the Sand- 
 wich Islands. And this evening, Monday, when I was 
 taking tea with them, surrounded by other members of 
 the mission and officers from our ships, presents a change 
 indeed, w r hich these two oldest missionaries alone can 
 justly contrast in all its shade and light. 
 
 Mrs. Judd brought in with her, after tea, the gorgeous 
 and indescribably delicate " night-blooming ceres." There 
 are things in nature w r hich so affect one with their beau- 
 ties, that the mind feels its incapacity, by emblems and 
 comparisons, adequately to define them, and loves rather 
 to feel the effect of the beautiful than to attempt its deli- 
 neation. " How unearthly it looks," said Mrs. J. " How 
 unearthly it looks," I only repeated, and still gazed on the 
 exquisite and elongated white corollas within their yel- 
 lowish green calix, surrounding a thick fringe of stamens, 
 which, with their circle of tasseled, straw-colored and 
 flexible filaments, inlay this cup of more than alabaster 
 white and purity. The white pistil, too, tufted with a 
 yellow fringe, further ornamenting the centre of the cup, 
 harmonizes, in exquisite softness, with the surrounding 
 tassels, that wave or languish, as the beautiful cup may 
 be turned, with the grace and mellowness of the softest 
 fringe on silken and richest scarf of lady. We took the 
 gorgeous and soft flower to its native element, the moon- 
 beam, to-night falling from a clear and bright heaven. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 235 
 
 And it drank in the soft ray so sweetly, and itself looked 
 so lovely, that nothing short of Moore's a3olian euphony 
 in lyric rhythm, or Bailey's soft melancholy of song, 
 should, by any attempt at description, disturb the sweet 
 harmony "of this bright night, this exquisite climate, and a 
 thing so blended of the loveliness of the one and the soft- 
 ness of the other, as is this lovely " night-blooming ceres." 
 
 This beautiful plant of the cactus is plentiful and luxu- 
 riant here, overtopping the high palings of the garden 
 fences, and annually and prodigally displaying, in the soft 
 moonbeam of this delicious climate, its graceful flower, 
 which bends its modest neck, as it receives the approba- 
 ting and blessed smiles of the silvering queen, on her pas- 
 sage in her night-car through these serene heavens. The 
 flower is a thing to be thought of in connection with the 
 remembered friend with whom we have gazed at it, with 
 like appreciation of its harmonies in itself, and the moon- 
 lit scene of light and mellowed shade, in which it timidly 
 unfolded its modest and unequalled beauties to the sight. 
 
 The next evening I met the King, at tea, at Dr. Judd's. 
 I had before seen his Hawaiian majesty at his own resi- 
 dence near the fort, in company with the governor and 
 chief princess, and other chiefs who were present. The 
 king seemed interested in a description given him of the 
 proceedings of a court martial. And it was remarked to 
 him, that if the cause of temperance on our arrival had 
 prevailed, so that liquor could not have been procured 
 here, the case before the court then holding its sittings 
 would not have occurred. 
 
 " It is a pity," said the king, with an expression of coun- 
 tenance which indicated his deep sincerity of feeling. " I 
 am sorry the temperance rule prevails not entirely." 
 
 Where the king's mind was wandering at this moment, 
 no one at the table could doubt, though it would have 
 been impolite to urge the subject, to the recalling of the 
 late occurrences at this place, when, the king feels, and 
 all impartial judges feel, that he was necessitated by the 
 interests of a French consul, in near view of the guns of 
 the frigate 1'Artemise, and the threat that a larger French 
 force from the coast, ere long, should appear off* the is- 
 lands to take possession of them unless proposals which 
 
 47 
 
236 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 were made were complied with to sign an instrument, 
 which, if it made him not a vassal of the French king, 
 took from him the power of excluding from his posses- 
 sions, for the benefit of his subjects, French brandy and 
 French wines. And why ? Because M. Dudoit, the French 
 consul, would be a dealer in the articles, notwithstanding 
 the king had, a short time previously, to the great satis- 
 faction of the best wishers of the subjects of his majesty, 
 totally excluded, by law, the further importation of all dis- 
 tilled spirits whatever into any port of his possessions. 
 This was in accordance with the nearly unanimous voice 
 of the residents of the islands, and shipmasters visiting 
 these ports ; and alter the king's own sincerity had been 
 manifested by the destruction of the whole (three in num- 
 ber) of his own distilleries in his islands. But, more of 
 this in its proper place, further on. 
 
 The king spoke of the ancient games of the people, and 
 their influence upon his subjects, and what would be their 
 effect if renewed. It would be the reviving of a system 
 of gambling, to continue from Monday morning till Sun- 
 day night. The exercise might be well enough, but the 
 dissipation and idleness consequent thereon would more 
 than counterbalance any good that may be supposed to 
 rise from the sports. He instanced the rolling of the disk ; 
 the name of the game is forgotten ; but it consists in roll- 
 ing a round and smooth stone, of about four inches in 
 diameter, and increasing, from its edge to its centre, from 
 one and a half to two inches thick. Were this game to 
 be revived, said the king, you would see the street, for 
 a half mile, crowded with people to witness the success 
 of the competitors in rolling this stone. The one who 
 rolls it the furthest is the victor. But the evil of the sys- 
 tem would be, that all this multitude would not only be 
 present to witness the rolling, but would be sitting up all 
 the succeeding nights, betting and in exciting conversa- 
 tion in connection with the sport, and this for several 
 succeeding days, to the neglect of all business, and end- 
 ing in disputes and revels. But as a substitution for these 
 things, the people are encouraged in agricultural pursuits, 
 raising the kalo and other vegetables and productions, 
 and it is to be hoped with increasing success, and to the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 237 
 
 cultivation of permanent habits of industry among the 
 .great body of the natives. 
 
 The grounds about the house of Dr. Judd are well 
 filled with trees and shrubs, a very acceptable and plea- 
 sant thing always to the stranger as well as to the foreign 
 resident in view of the arid level on which the town of 
 Honolulu is situated. For all this, the doctor says, the 
 merit is due to Mrs. J., as he is often absent in his prac- 
 tice, as the physician to the mission, to different parts of 
 the island. Mrs. J. is a lady of taste, with a heart of 
 great kindness and benevolence. It will be acceptable 
 to the friends of midshipman Morris to know, that it is 
 within the bosom of such a family that he is now located 
 in his illness, and where he will be left, we would hope, 
 to recover ; but we fear that in his advanced stage of 
 pulmonary affection, that even this favorable climate, and 
 the nursing which the kindness and the sympathies of 
 those with whom he is staying in great tenderness and 
 care will secure to him, may not possess the power to 
 restore him to health. Young Morris is sensible that he 
 has fallen into kind hands, and is resigned and contented 
 as far as his circumstances of great debility admit. And 
 to me, in the apprehension that he may never again be 
 recovered to health, it is a consolation, though he sailed 
 in another ship, to know from my conversations with him, 
 that we shall leave him thoughtful of his future destiny, 
 and with hopes that he has made his peace with his God, 
 to whom he trusts he has (even since we have arrived at 
 these islands) committed himself, in resignation and dis- 
 cipleship. 
 
 The following day, Wednesday, the twenty-third, the 
 king visited the frigate, to whom an entertainment was 
 given by the Commodore. The chief princess of the 
 island, the governor, and other natives, constituting the 
 king's suit, the American, English, and French consuls, 
 the gentlemen of the mission, and the foreign residents 
 generally, were also on board. 
 
 The king was received with the yards manned and a 
 salute of twenty-one guns the officers and company being 
 on deck. I know not whether the dress of his majesty 
 was of the Windsor pattern or not, but it was a rich and 
 
238 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 every way an elegant suit. The coat was richly laced on 
 lapel, skirt, and collar, and is known to have cost eight 
 hundred dollars. His pantaloons white, and richly laced 
 at the sides, and his chapeau corresponding, in its lace, 
 for breadth and richness. 
 
 The king supported himself with propriety ; his man- 
 ners were easy and sufficiently dignified. His health was 
 drunk at the table, standing, while he retained his seat. 
 On drinking wine in compliment with the queen regent, 
 (as I suppose she may be called, having the care of the 
 infant queen in her minority, and acting in her stead,) to 
 whom I was near at the table, she remarked, as she was 
 further helped to a bunch of raisins, "this is the best wine" 
 wine and raisins being designated by the same word 
 in the Hawaiian language. She was dressed in a lilac- 
 colored silk, and is an immense woman more than six 
 feet high and proportionally large. 
 
 The company had strolled over the ship previously to 
 taking their seats at the table, and seemed at their ease, 
 and gratified. 1 left the ship with my missionary friends 
 at dusk, and the king and his party reached the shore at 
 about the same time. The entertainment passed off very 
 agreeably to the guests and creditably to the host. It was 
 a coincidence of sufficient interest to be noted by me, and 
 acceptable enough for the Christian community at home, 
 perhaps to be repeated in connection with the religious 
 effort which has b 3en put forth in behalf of these islanders, 
 whose king to-day was entertained under the circum- 
 stances described, that it was the twentieth anniversary day 
 of the departure of the first missionaries from Boston for 
 these islands. There is evidence written, everywhere we 
 move on shore, of the success of this early and Christian 
 enterprise, as we contemplate it in the advance of this 
 people thus far on the scale of civilization and Christianity, 
 however far they may be from the highest point of its 
 graduation. 
 
 The succeeding evening I visited at Mr. Knapp's, and 
 met, besides some of the officers as usual, at tea Mr. and 
 Mrs. Castle, Mrs. Walker and Miss Smith. 
 
 I was agreeably reminded by Mrs. Knapp of her hav- 
 ing seen me before her leaving the United States, in 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 239 
 
 Greenwich, Connecticut, whither, during my university 
 course at New Haven, I had wandered with a friend to 
 that border of the state. I was grateful for her memory, 
 as it enabled me to re-live over a very agreeable incident 
 among those hours of halcyon days, when the world had 
 a freshness in its scenes, which a few years only in its 
 broad walks reduces to common incident. Mr. and Mrs. 
 K. are a young couple who have not long been to the 
 islands. The same is true of Mr. and Mrs. Cook, at whose 
 house I visited the succeeding evening. 
 
 Mr. Chamberlain, whose interesting family I visited, 
 is the secular agent of the whole mission of the Sandwich 
 Islands, assisted by Mr. Castle, a gentleman of great worth, 
 already mentioned. Mr. Chamberlain is a person well 
 qualified for the position he occupies, and is beloved by 
 all the members of the mission, among whom there is one 
 harmonious feeling of agreement and kindness. The 
 children of Mr. and Mrs. C. are particularly interesting 
 for their fine and classic features, and the womanly man- 
 ners of the two little girls. I mention them here, that I 
 may also say that the children of the missionaries, gene- 
 rally, will not fail to interest the stranger for the precoci- 
 ty of their minds and manners. This is to be attributed, 
 in a good degree, to the fact that the parents make compan- 
 ions of their children, and that they are cut off from an 
 intercourse with numerous children of their own age. 
 And here, too, they are kept, as a matter of principle, from 
 acquiring the language of the natives, that their associa- 
 tion with native children may be prevented, lest their 
 minds might be corrupted by much in the Hawaiian lan- 
 guage deemed to be objectionable. Whatever may be 
 the policy of this course, it is certain that it throws the 
 children upon their parents as resources for their amuse- 
 ment and conversation. These two little girls of whom, 
 I speak, I take to be, the one six and the other eight years 
 of age ; and they entered into a conversation with me with 
 all the zest and vivacity of young ladies with the advanta- 
 ges of a number of more years. By some circumstance 
 the conversation fell upon noses, (I am half disposed to 
 think that the circumstance was originated by myself, as 
 their noses were extremely fine and Grecian,) when I 
 
 47* 
 
240 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 mentioned thai Bonaparte, I believed, was in the habit of 
 selecting his body-guard by their noses. He always con- 
 sidered a man with a large nose, to be possessed of courage 
 and firmness. 
 
 " And I remember," said the little girl of six, with great 
 playfulness, " precisely what kind of nose my brother has, 
 who is in America/' 
 
 " And what do you think of America ?" 
 
 " I think it must be a very fine country." 
 
 " And did you ever see any chestnuts from America ?" 
 
 "I think I have." 
 
 " And what were they like ?" 
 
 " They were like" I forget now the particular reply 
 of my little friend, otherwise than her chestnuts proved to 
 have been filberts, and I promised (and I intend to fulfil 
 all my engagements to my little friends abroad) to send 
 her a parcel of chestnuts and other mementoes on my re- 
 turn to the United States. 
 
 The missionaries send most of their children home, so 
 soon as they reach the proper age and preparation for the 
 continuance of their education under more favorable ad- 
 vantages than they would receive here. They are con- 
 signed to the care of their kindred ; and I am told that 
 the proceeds of property committed to the care of the 
 American Board by some of the missionaries here, either 
 on the part of the mother or the father, more than yield a 
 sufficient income for the education of their children in the 
 United States, and in some instances, besides, defray the 
 amount of the nominal salary, in that case, which they re- 
 ceive from the Board at home. 
 
 LUA AT THE PARI. 
 
 We had heard much of the native manner of cooking 
 food and their mode of getting up things at a lua, which 
 is something after the manner of a southern barbecue. 
 Not having as yet ridden to the Pari, one of the curiosities 
 of this island, and the arrangement having been made to 
 have a lua at that point, I accepted an invitation to form 
 one of the numerous party on the occasion. 
 
 The ride to the Pari lies through a beautiful valley, 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 241 
 
 stretching quite across the island. Having mounted our 
 horses, which are all in good keeping on the island, but 
 ill-gaited, as the full canter seems to be the usual speed 
 for riding here, we passed over the level ground back of 
 the town by a track that soon conducted us through 
 patches of taro, (arum esculentum,) written kalo in the 
 Hawaiian. Crossing one or two bridges we soon found 
 ourselves threading a spacious ravine, which contracts as 
 one proceeds to its further extremity, a distance of some 
 six miles across the island, where it is abruptly terminated 
 by a precipice. The word precipice, in the language of 
 the island, is pari, and hence the name of this steep. 
 
 We first reached the residence of Dr. Roke, who has 
 a dwelling at the entrance of the valley. He joined our 
 party and we rode on. The doctor, who has been some 
 time resident on the island, seems familiar with its locali- 
 ties and productions, and many of its legends. On our left 
 as we advanced, high up among the peaks that rose in 
 their eminences above us, the doctor thinks to be a cave 
 of the ancient kings and chiefs. So the legends go, and 
 he has often and long looked for it, but has never yet struck 
 upon its mouth, though the natives point out a prominent 
 tree as designating its entrance. The present ruling family 
 have their royal mausoleum in the town of Honolulu, where 
 the coffins are retained with their coverings of velvet. 
 
 Having measured a mile or two further over the grad- 
 ually ascending plain of the ravine, we reached the cot- 
 tage of a Mr. Pelly, agent of the Hudson Bay Company, 
 at this island. Below his house, and formed by a break in 
 the plain of the ravine, is a small but quite a pretty fall of 
 water. Having alighted, I chose to be interested in this 
 pretty exhibition of one of the forms which nature assumes, 
 on which no one can gaze without having his heart ren- 
 dered more pure in the communion, rather than to seek 
 the conversation of a man, with whose principles in morals 
 or actions as a gentleman, I could have no sympathies. 
 This Mr. P. constituted one of an honorable quincunx, 
 who, in the late visit of the frigate PArtemise to this 
 place, joined in an expression of thanks to her commander 
 for pursuing a course, which, in his public documents, ex- 
 patriated American citizens : and which, had his plans 
 
242 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 been carried into execution on the non-compliance of the 
 government with the conditions dictated to it under the 
 guns of a man-of-war, would have exposed all the families 
 of this mission to the mercy of the crew of a French 
 cruiser. That this gentleman with his four compeers 
 may have all the glory that such a paper can confer, I 
 may, further on, quote the same for their especial benefit, 
 and to awaken the frown of every virtuous reader. 
 
 The rest of our way was by a less even path, though 
 not less interesting, as we pursued a narrower track through 
 the luxuriant undergrowth matted about the more elevated 
 hibiscus, among the boughs of which the convolvulus 
 wormed its spiral vine and let drop its trumpet cup to the 
 rider's view. A native was at my side, who kept pace 
 with our advance, and gathered for my pleasure whatever 
 I designated on tree or shrub or ferns, among the latter of 
 which (beautiful in their varieties and luxuriant in their 
 growth) we were now moving in our more elevated but 
 gradual ascent. We now passed on through the grandest 
 part of the ravine, formed by the perpendicular sides of 
 basalt lava, with the mystic cloud hanging upon the high- 
 est tops in their threatening shade and misty wreaths, as 
 if they sought to throw a gloom to the deeps below, to 
 heighten the sublimity of the threatening battlements that 
 rose, in their height and mists, above us. We came to a 
 space of clear ground, where the ravine had again nar- 
 rowed in correspondence with the termination of the per- 
 pendicular ranges of basalt at a point we had passed, and 
 thus forming an oval basin, as seen from either extreme of 
 the valley. We dismounted and gave our horses to the 
 care of the natives, while we walked up a short ascent to 
 a notch of the mountains which we had seen all the way 
 before us, and found ourselves suddenly on the brow of 
 the Pari a precipice, which terminated this end of the 
 ravine. The prospect overlooks a spacious level below, 
 luxuriant in its richness, and mellowed to the softness of 
 velvet ; while the curling breakers are seen dashing over 
 the coral reefs beyond, and the deep, deep blue sea is far 
 out as the eye can reach. 
 
 But the gale for a current of wind ever sets through 
 this gap almost choked me as I attempted to wind my 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 243 
 
 way across the pass, through which the currents of air 
 rush in their passage of the whole length of the valley, 
 and pour their currents over the town of Honolulu. We 
 proceeded a short distance on the side of the mountain, to 
 gain the path for descending the Pari. This we accom- 
 plished, though deemed in former times a difficult attempt. 
 By the assistance of an iron railing in the most difficult 
 part of the steep, the feat is not difficult, though very much 
 to the disturbing of the easy breathing of a plethoric man. 
 For myself I found the descent and return of little difficulty, 
 and at the expense of but little fatigue, and for a very good 
 reason it may be, as I had a native hold of my stick to 
 keep me from too rapid a progress down, and two of them 
 to draw me back again. 
 
 When already about to encounter the currents on the 
 top of the Pari, which drive in a hurricane through this 
 gorge of the ravine, two natives seized me to keep me 
 from being blown up the mountain-side, or point blank 
 into the broadside of a lava-rock my hat already having 
 been seized by a third native, and a fourth attempting to 
 secure my umbrella, all in the greatest kindness. I broke 
 from them all, and was met by a messenger from the party 
 at the bower, where the lua was to be spread, saying that 
 one oven had been retained unopened, to await me, that I 
 might see the mysteries of the native mode of roasting 
 pig, fish, and dog, and whatever else might be the ingre- 
 dients of the oven. 
 
 I hurried on, and found, in the neighborhood where 
 our horses had been left, that a bower had been raised- 
 half a hundred natives gathered in different groups 
 several fires smoking and, within the temporary bower, 
 constructed of poles and bushes, and matted with the ki- 
 leaf, were seen his majesty Kammahamaha III., Commo- 
 dore Read, commanding the U. S. East India squadron, 
 H. B. M . Consul Captain Charlton, and some dozen, more 
 or less, of the officers of the squadron, comfortably that 
 may be questioned but certainly seated, at their leisure, 
 on the ki-leaves, beneath the bower. Here all had gath- 
 ered to the lua. 
 
 The eating of dogs was formerly a very common cus- 
 tom with the islanders, and a canine roaster was deemed 
 
244 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a delicious dish a royal dish. The dogs, however, are 
 of a particular species, so said, though I suppose it matters 
 little as to their kind. Those which are destined for the 
 lua are fed on poe, a dish made from the kalo, and form- 
 ing the principal food of the natives. Those who have 
 eaten of the dog, as cooked here, say it is fine. This is 
 the universal testimony ; and a person, not knowing to 
 what he was helped, with a piece of dog thus prepared 
 upon his plate, would pronounce it to be more than a 
 usually choice piece of pig. So say the epicures so say 
 the curious. The consequence is, that those who visit the 
 islands generally have a slight sensation of an inclination, 
 for eating dog for once. Consequently, the lua was 
 given to gratify the curiosity of the stranger-comers of 
 our squadron. 
 
 Behold, then, when I had reached the last oven, yet 
 remaining uncovered, behold the opening of its contents. 
 First, a play of fine wreaths of steam dissipating them- 
 selves in thin air above a hillock of green leaves, over 
 which the drops of vapor had condensed themselves, so 
 as to preserve the outer leaves of the little pile moist. Be- 
 hold ! A native, under the direction of Mr. Thompson, a 
 gentleman of travel, seeking health and pleasure, who 
 seemed to be the master of ceremonies to-day, removed 
 layer after layer of leaves, until some six inches thick of 
 these long and wide ki-folia were disposed of. Behold ! 
 The removing of the next layer presented the proportions 
 fair to the hungry man, proportions tasteful to any man, 
 of a whole pig, from tongue to tail, from back to breast, 
 from toe to teeth. There he was, nearly as big as life, 
 quite as big as a whole roasted pig. And beside him lay, 
 in their white and clean appearances, the whole, and the 
 half, and three quarter pieces of kalo, reposing upon a 
 pavement of hot stones, which inlaid a circular and con- 
 cave hole, which had been scooped from the earth, about 
 twelve inches deep. 
 
 " Very fine," said his majesty's secretary, as he took a 
 piece of the kalo and broke it for me to taste. " Very 
 boo-tee-fool," he continued, as I tasted the mealy and de- 
 lightfully flavored vegetable, adding between the first and 
 second taste, " very fine, very beautiful," not at all dissent- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 245 
 
 ing from the secretary in the truth of his ideas, however 
 much we might differ, generally, in the application of 
 English words. 
 
 " Very fine, very fine indeed," said another, as he un- 
 veiled from the smoking and verdant wrapper of the ki- 
 leaf a fine fish, and submitted it to my examination and taste. 
 
 " Very fine, very fine indeed," I repeated ; and there 
 could be no mistake as to the fine manner in which these 
 fish had thus been cooked. The pig had already been 
 borne to a distance, while we were tasting the various 
 articles besides those already specified, wrapped in their 
 separate coverings of the ki-leaf, save the fine taro. 
 
 " Do they cook the dog in square pieces, Mr. Thomp- 
 son ?" I asked, as I saw the natives take one or two such 
 proportioned packages from the oven. 
 
 Unaccountably, Mr. Thompson was called to see the 
 direction of some of the distant-going rnoveables, before 
 he gave the reply. I had asked one of the Hawaiians 
 previously, what the oven contained. He had replied, a 
 pig. But Mr. Thompson, on being asked if the dog were 
 in this last oven, had hinted that it was. I therefore drew 
 the inference that the object of particular curiosity had 
 been dissected, contrary to usual custom, as I had no 
 doubt but that the conspicuous, and well-baked, and very 
 delicate-looking animal, in all his indismembered propor- 
 tions before me, was, in truth, a pig. 
 
 I adjourned to the bower and took my position among 
 the guests, everywhere reposing "otium non cum digni- 
 tate," on the leaf-matted floor of the bower. 
 
 Ere long the various articles of the lua were making 
 their appearance on various dishes dog pig several 
 pigs fish various kinds of fish, and never better than at 
 these islands taro sweet potatoes, et cetera et cetera- 
 and poe, as another characteristic dish of the natives, new 
 and old, the first sweet, the second sour. 
 
 " And which is the dog ?" was the general murmur of 
 interest, as that specific gentleman, in all his proportions, 
 which I had seen removed from the oven, was placed near 
 Mr. Thompson, in the neighborhood of the King and the 
 Commodore. That is the dog, said one ; and that is the 
 dog, asserted another ; and I will take a piece of the dog, 
 
246 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 said all in their turns. But are you sure that this is dog? 
 I could not refrain from asking, always having been con- 
 sidered somewhat incredulous without having positive evi- 
 dence for what I am to believe, if circumstantial evidence 
 rather prevails against the thing affirmed. 
 
 " Let me try a piece, I can tell," said Mr. S., a gentle- 
 man near me " Calo, here, will not eat it if it is dog," 
 added Mr. S., as he pitched a small piece to his favorite 
 pointer. But Calo was a gentleman's dog, and it was not 
 his part to refuse aught that was set before him ; and 
 therefore Calo ate it without a murmur. 
 
 " Dog don't eat dog," they say, and incredulity, in our 
 neighborhood, seemed rather to prevail. 
 
 " Mr. T., will you take a piece of the dog ?" asked Mr. 
 Thompson " I do assure you this is the dog," reaffirmed 
 the amiable gentleman. 
 
 " Pass it, if you please, Mr. Thompson ;" and Calo was 
 treated to another small piece, perhaps from another dish, 
 but apparently from the one from which I had previously 
 been served. 
 
 The politeness of Calo did not fail him, even the second 
 time ; and the conclusion now inevitably was, that either 
 dog will eat dog, or else no dog graced the feast of the 
 Pari. And it is equally true, that if the piece to which I 
 was helped was dog, I did not distinguish it from the choice 
 rib part of a pig, though in the passing amusement of the 
 moment, I confess I did not particularly call into requisi- 
 tion my most particular powers of discrimination. 
 
 The officers were soon moving back on their return- 
 way to town, in separate groups. The lua had passed off 
 in great propriety, at least so far as I had seen, without 
 the rude noise of boisterous toast, which may be in taste 
 with bacchanalian carousals, but not with social and rural 
 repast of rational and colloquial beings. Who would not 
 forget a toast now on record, in that refined no, I will 
 not speak ironically in that scurrilous and disgraceful 
 penny-sheet paper, the S. I. Gazette as having been 
 given on a similar occasion, but very differently conducted 
 repast, in which there is neither wit, sentiment, nor sense, 
 and a thing to be regretted in the remembrance, because 
 it is destitute of all three of them. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 247 
 
 This is a region of rainbows. On leaving this beautiful 
 valley, the prismatic colors arranged themselves in an 
 arch that spanned the valley, with its bases resting on 
 either side of the ravine, advancing with its beautiful co- 
 lors to the very opening of the valley, and fading away as 
 if bidding us adieu, as we left that green ravine for ever. 
 
 The native custom of cooking dogs is diminishing rapidly 
 among the natives. It is desirable that it should, not 
 particularly so because there need be any fastidiousness 
 about eating this animal ; elsewhere, and particularly in 
 Canton, they are a regular article to be found in the mar- 
 kets. And one will in some measure, perhaps, have lost 
 his own fastidiousness upon this subject by the time he has 
 made a voyage around the world. But the particular 
 reason why the natives should dispense with the habit, is, 
 the expense of raising the animal in comparison with 
 others of greater value, when considered as an article of 
 food. And then, again, they are greatly destructive, where 
 their numbers are large, to the kid and the lamb, and 
 poultry. The same care and expense laid out in some other 
 species of production, would yield a greater profit, and con- 
 tribute to the support of a larger population. A town, 
 too, crowded with dogs, is always inconvenienced by the 
 nuisance ; and the bite of a rabid one is so terrible in its 
 consequences, as to render the diminution of the number, 
 in any given place, desirable. It is in view of the prin- 
 ciples of political economy, production, population, and 
 consequent wealth, that many of the customs and sports 
 of the natives are to be viewed ; and if so viewed, the si- 
 lent influence or the more positive and open action of the 
 missionaries, in the changing of the native customs, would 
 not only not be found fault with but highly approbated. 
 
 I reached my pleasant home, rendered such by my kind 
 hosts, a little after sunset, fatigued by the ride, but pleased 
 with the excursion. 
 
 SALT LAKE. 
 
 The salt lake, lying some four miles on the way to 
 Ewa from Honolulu, is a natural curiosity, mentioned to 
 the newly arrived as among the objects worthy of a visit 
 
 48 
 
248 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and a ride for pleasure and exercise. So I found it ; more 
 than counterbalancing the inconvenience of wet boots, 
 which one is sure of acquiring while crossing a field of 
 water in the first part of this ride from town. The ride 
 itself affords a variety in plain and occasional steep 
 flocks of goats a deep hollow covered with high and 
 crooked cocoa-nut trees Madam Boki's plantation to 
 whom, as I was told, some fine patches of taro and plan- 
 tain trees and other productions had belonged, as we were 
 passing through them, although the worthy woman's fune- 
 ral was celebrated but a short time previous to our arrival. 
 But the object of interest is the lake, some three or two 
 and a half miles in circumference, reposing in a low basin 
 among the broken hills of a lava formation, and one edge 
 of it is near the sea. As a body of water it possesses no 
 interest ; the edges around it are barren, and the broken 
 hills that hem it in are without verdure, and the water is 
 shallow. Indeed, it is but a large natural basin, in which, 
 by the power of the sun's rays, reflected with additional 
 intensity by the surrounding hills, the salt water is evapo- 
 rated, and a process of crystallization is continually going 
 on. The lake is covered with a stratum of salt more or 
 less thick, from a few inches around its edges to a foot 
 and more, and I know not but two or three feet, as the 
 depth of the concavity of the basin increases towards its 
 centre. The stratum of salt is mostly overflowed by a few 
 inches of water which w 7 as excessively bitter to the taste, 
 and nearly of blood heat in temperature, judging from 
 the sensation of touch, not having a thermometer with me. 
 The article has been quarried, and considerable quantities 
 taken from the bed the excavations soon filling again in 
 the continual formation that is going on. The material is 
 deemed inexhaustible. As I stood upon the ridge of the 
 hills that surround this curious basin, I judged its level to 
 be lower than the adjacent sea, with which the water of 
 the sea must have some communication, either by oozing 
 through the soil on the side bordering on the shore, or else 
 by some more distinct subterraneous channel. The only 
 other supposition being, that it is fed by salt springs. The 
 most probable conclusion, however, is, that the region 
 being volcanic, and the basin itself deemed with great 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 249 
 
 probability to be an extinct crater, some subterranean 
 fissure leads from it to the sea, thus forming an inlet from 
 the sea by some opening in the lava-beds which in a for- 
 mer period poured in streams from this caldron. These 
 fissures are known to exist in great numbers in the craters 
 of the active volcanoes of the neighboring island of Ha- 
 waii ; and in digging a well at Honolulu, an instance is 
 known of a crowbar passing out of the hand of the work- 
 man as it pierced the crust through which it perforated, 
 and was lost, as it was heard to sink far down in a crevice 
 of the rock below. It is affirmed in the Hawaiian Spec- 
 tator, in a mere allusion to this lake, that it has a commu- 
 nication with the sea by a hole at its centre. But as the 
 same writer affirms, in the same passage, that the bottom 
 of the lake is above the level of the sea, we conclude that 
 his affirmation is mere conjecture, without positive exami- 
 nation, as it must be very obvious that such a communica- 
 tion, if the bottom of the lake were above the level of the 
 sea, would soon, by forming an outlet, drain the lake, and 
 leave it as dry as the arid lava-cliffs around it. 
 
 I secured some very choice specimens of the crystal- 
 line formation, continually in process here. The wide 
 stratum covering the surface of these natural salt works, 
 is intersected by seams, resembling appearances in a field 
 of ice, resulting from the cracking of the main body ; pro- 
 duced here probably by the streams of fresh water, run- 
 ning, during the rainy season, into the lake, and creating, 
 by dissolution, these fissures in the riven stratum. In 
 these seams the crystals have space for shooting forth in 
 perfect formations, and fine specimens can be collected by 
 the hand, being easily detached, in small masses, from the 
 more compact stratum. 
 
 On returning, we took a different route from the one 
 that guided us to the lake ; and while crossing the hills 
 adjacent to this extensive and natural salt basin, we saw a 
 dog bearing a young kid in his mouth, and moving with 
 an apparent consciousness of his dereliction from all duty 
 of obedience to the laws, while the penalty, his conscience 
 seemed to tell him, would sorely be felt by him, if once 
 caught. 
 
 We next struck upon a little thatched dwelling, sur- 
 
250 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 rounded, in an otherwise barren field, by immense clusters 
 of the prickly pear, overtopping, in their luxuriant growth, 
 the head of horse and rider, as he came up to their huge 
 and impenetrable clusters. And wo to him who shall at- 
 tempt to pluck the curious fruit from the prickly plant, 
 have he buckskins on or other gloves to save his palms. 
 A native, however, was soon near us, but too late to pre- 
 serve us from an experience that may serve us in the future, 
 and plucked, by a little noose upon the end of a stick, some 
 of the fruit for us, and, with the greatest care for the com- 
 fort of his own fingers, opened the outer rind and displayed 
 the gorgeously beautiful and rich fruit within, having the 
 color of the deepest crimson melon, with the consistency 
 and sparkling crystalline appearance of iced cream, to the 
 eye and taste, though possessing the property of the water- 
 melon without its liquid. We descended the hill and came 
 upon a cluster of small houses, from which the natives 
 poured, in a group of some six or eight, and one of them 
 more neatly clad in her white gown than the rest ; and 
 the cause of it was written as legibly in the thing she bore 
 in her hand, as the same said book narrated on its leaves, 
 stories in the Hawaiian language. How truly do letters, 
 from the A, B, C of the alphabet, to their must perfect and 
 learned combinations, produce a refinement upon the mind 
 as it ijecomes familiar with their powers and meaning in 
 composition ! Here, as everywhere, in its different degrees, 
 was seen the influence of the missionary abroad, as well 
 as the schoolmaster at home. These people seemed to be 
 on the plantation of Madam Boki, and were very kind, as 
 they knocked down at once, a passage-way, that had been 
 tightly boarded up with nails, for our convenience in tak- 
 ing a nearer course across the flats and taro fields. Home, 
 and a cup of tea at home to-night, were acceptable, after a 
 wet and late ride. 
 
 It is now twenty years since the first missionary to the 
 Sandwich Islands sailed from the city of Boston. During 
 this time the number of the missionaries has been in- 
 creased, from time to time. The nation was found a peo- 
 ple given to idolatry, superstition, and the general vices of 
 savage life. Human victims, at times, were sacrificed ; 
 and the conquered foe in war sometimes formed a feast for 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 251 
 
 the victors. Their language, barren in general terms but 
 copious in nominals, had but a verbal existence. The 
 contrast presented to us at this time, is a nation, who have 
 adopted, as a whole people, the Christian religion. An 
 idol, as a curiosity for a cabinet, can scarcely be found. 
 Missionary families are located on all the islands. Com- 
 mon schools have been established throughout the districts 
 on the different islands, under the care of native teachers, 
 more or less competent ; and station schools, at the differ- 
 ent residences of the missionaries, from which the native 
 teachers are principally supplied. Select schools and 
 boarding schools for boys and girls ; and a high school, 
 college, or seminary, as it may be called, in its infancy, 
 with a number of promising scholars, and with instructers 
 of liberal education to take them on in the different branches 
 of the sciences and arts, as their capacities, purposes, and 
 the course of improvement in the elevation of the people 
 in religion and civilization, shall demand and render prac- 
 ticable. The Hawaiian tongue has been reduced to a 
 written language ; the Bible translated into the native 
 tongue; a native newspaper printed ; elementary books, for 
 the schools, prepared and published, including Children's 
 Lessons, Children's Teacher, Hawaiian Grammar, Arith- 
 metic, Lineal Drawing. Algebra. Trigonometry, Surveying, 
 Hawaiian History, Scripture History and Geography, 
 Church History, Hymns, Tracts, Music, Nautical Almanac, 
 etc., etc. ; the printing of which, with other works not 
 mentioned, principally in the Hawaiian language, amount- 
 ed during the last thirteen months only, to eleven millions 
 four hundred and ninety-nine thousand six hundred and 
 thirty-six pages. 
 
 Eighteen native churches have been organized on the difc 
 ferent islands. School-houses and church-edifices, several 
 of the latter large and stone buildings, have been erected. 
 
 And as the contemplated end of all these efforts has 
 been the religious and eternal welfare of this people, it 
 must cheer the heart of every true lover of his species, and 
 thrill the bosom of the Christian, to learn the hopeful ac- 
 complishment of this end even beyond the expectation of 
 the most sanguine, from the following additional facts. 
 
 During the last year ten thousand seven hundred and 
 48* 
 
252 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD* 
 
 twenty-Jive persons of the native population of these islands 
 have been added, by profession, to the communion of these 
 Christian churches ; and sixteen thousand five hundred 
 and eighty-seven, from the commencement of the mission. 
 The language of the missionaries is this : " The past 
 has been a year of unexampled prosperity to the Redeem- 
 er's kingdom throughout the islands. At the close of the 
 last year, the work of the Holy Spirit was going on in a 
 most glorious manner at nearly all the stations ; and the 
 work so commenced has, to the praise of Divine grace, 
 advanced with steady progress. Persons of all ages have 
 been subjects of the gracious visitations of the Spirit, from 
 opening childhood to decrepit old age. The boarding 
 school and Sabbath school scholar, together with many 
 who had been neglected, have sought, and, it is hoped, 
 found a Saviour or rather, they have been found by him 
 and. gathered into his fold. That every one apparently 
 renewed by grace will prove to have been born again, 
 cannot be expected ; but we may confidently hope that 
 great numbers of those who have this year professedly 
 turned to the Lord, will be found in the last day to be 
 truly his people." 
 
 FRENCH AFFAIR AT THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
 
 I would willingly leave the reader of the foregoing 
 sketches of the date since our arrival at the island of Oahu, 
 to form his opinion of the merits and the success of the 
 Sandwich Islands mission, from the impression he has 
 gained in their perusal. I am sure it would not be too 
 vivid ; the light, however faintly as yet breaking over this 
 but lately benighted people, has been reflected in descrip- 
 tion, but dimly on these pages, in comparison with the 
 brightness of the divine beam which has been streaming 
 among the deep shades that enveloped the Hawaiian peo- 
 ple, when they were first contemplated by the eye of the 
 coming missionary. And he alone can draw the contrast 
 in its depth of shadow and welcome and relieving light. 
 And while the nation has far yet to go in its course to 
 reach the intelligence and refinement of a cultivated peo- 
 ple, what nation like this, in the history of civilization and 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 253 
 
 Christianity, ever made so rapid a step from savage life 
 and heathen superstitions to the possession of civic and 
 Christian institutions ? 
 
 The story of our visit to the Sandwich Islands, how- 
 ever, would be incomplete were these notes in connection 
 with it to be ended here. My private feelings in connec- 
 tion with some who may be pained by the public exposure 
 of transactions which will reflect no honor on some of the 
 foreign residents, and particularly those in authority from 
 the English and French governments, would lead me to 
 pass over in silence the account of the late visit of the 
 French frigate 1'Artemise, and transactions connected 
 with it, and the associate action, equally discreditable to 
 the persons concerned, previously to her arrival. But 
 personal feelings are to be sacrificed to the cause of truth, 
 while the high-handed and vicious measures which are 
 now to be noticed, merit, and shall receive, rebuke. 
 
 We had heard much in connection with the action of 
 the American missionaries to these islands before our arri- 
 val at Honolulu, and were assured that we should hear a 
 great deal more on our arrival ; that there had always 
 been a party here opposed to the influence exerted by the 
 American missionaries upon the native population, and that 
 this party was ever ready to repeat stories, and re-affirm 
 them, to the discredit of the mission. But the testimony 
 of all disinterested persons, and the inquiries of all our 
 national ships when touching here, after proper and con- 
 siderate examination of the state of things as they really 
 exist, and have been conducted, gave unqualified testi- 
 mony to the happy influence of the mission upon the na- 
 tives, and acquitted the missionaries of all just cause of 
 censure. We were prepared, therefore, to hear much de- 
 famation from one quarter, and expected to witness from 
 our own inspection the happy influences of Christian efforts 
 upon a population but lately a savage and heathen people. 
 And by making due allowance for the imperfection of 
 all human institutions, and the slow progress of all bar- 
 barous nations from their savage state to civil life, as de- 
 lineated in all history of the past, we believed we should 
 find evidence of even a remarkable and almost unhoped- 
 for success in the action of the mission. 
 
254 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 But we were not prepared to hear, that, by misrepre- 
 sentations of religious hate and self-interest in contraband 
 merchandise, a French frigate had been secured to visit 
 this port, to redress falsely affirmed insults, and to secure 
 to a French consulate advantages in a nefarious trade. 
 And when the course pursued by the captain of the French 
 frigate, under the ex parte representations of the French 
 consul, towards this helpless people ; and yet more par- 
 ticularly towards an intelligent, devoted, and most worthy 
 band of Christian and American missionaries, was learned, 
 an indignant burst of honorable displeasure expressed it- 
 self in the feelings and from the lips of most of the officers 
 of the American squadron. 
 
 This French ship VArtemise, as she is called, arrived 
 off the harbor of Honolulu, Thursday, July 9, 1839, about 
 two months previous to our arrival, and her captain ad- 
 dressed the following manifesto (embracing, as will be 
 shown, affirmations contrary to facts in several particulars, 
 and where coincident with facts, in most particulars justi- 
 fiable on the part of the Sandwich Islands government) to 
 the king of these islands, on the same day of his anchoring. 
 
 MANIFESTO, 
 
 Addressed to the King of the Sandwich Islands, by Capt. La Place, 
 commanding the French frigate 1'Artemise, in the name of his 
 Government. 
 
 " His majesty, the king of the French, having com- 
 manded me to come to Honolulu in order to put an end, 
 either by force or persuasion, to the ill treatment to which 
 the French have been victims at the Sandwich Islands, I 
 hasten, first, to employ this last means as the most confor- 
 mable to the political, noble, and liberal system pursued by 
 France against the powerless, hoping thereby that I shall 
 make the principal chiefs of these islands understand how 
 fatal the conduct which they pursue towards her will be to 
 their interests, and perhaps cause disasters to them and to 
 their country, should they be obstinate in their perseve- 
 rance. Misled by perfidious counsellors ; deceived by the 
 excessive indulgence which the French government has 
 extended towards them for several years, they are un- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 255 
 
 doubtedly ignorant how potent it is, and that in the world 
 there is not a power which is capable of preventing it 
 from punishing its enemies ; otherwise they would have 
 endeavored to merit its favor, or, not to incur its displea- 
 sure, as they have done in ill-treating the French. They 
 would have faithfully put into execution the treaties, in 
 place of violating, them as soon as the fear disappeared, 
 as well as the ships of war which had caused it, whereby 
 bad intentions had been constrained. In fine, they will 
 comprehend that to persecute the Catholic religion, to 
 tarnish it with the name of idolatry, and to expel, under 
 this absurd pretext, the French from this archipelago, was 
 to offer an insult to France and to its sovereign. 
 
 " It is, without doubt, the formal intention of France 
 that the king of the Sandwich Islands be powerful, inde- 
 pendent of every foreign power which he considers his 
 ally ; but she also demands that he conform to the usages 
 of civilized nations. Now, amongst the latter there is not 
 even one which does not permit in its territory the free 
 toleration of all religions ; and yet, at the Sandwich Isl- 
 ands, the French are not allowed publicly the exercise of 
 theirs, while Protestants enjoy therein the most extensive 
 privileges ; for these all favors, for those the most cruel 
 persecutions. Such a state of affairs being contrary to the 
 laws of nations, insulting to those of Catholics, can no 
 longer continue, and I am sent o put an end to it. Con- 
 sequently I demand in the name of my government, 
 
 *' 1st. That the Catholic worship be declared free 
 throughout all the dominions subject to the king of the 
 Sandwich Islands ; that the members of this religious faith 
 shall enjoy in them all the privileges granted to Protestants. 
 
 " 2d. That a site for a Catholic church be given by the 
 government at Honolulu, a port frequented by the French, 
 and that this church be ministered by priests of their nation. 
 
 " 3d. That all Catholics imprisoned on account of reli- 
 gion since the last persecution extended to the French 
 missionaries, be immediately set at liberty. 
 
 " 4th. That the king of the Sandwich Islands deposit in 
 the hands of the Captain of the 1'Artemise the sum of 
 twenty thousand dollars, as a guarantee of his future con- 
 duct towards France, which sum the government will 
 
256 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 restore to him when it shall consider that the accompany- 
 ing treaty will be faithfully complied with. 
 
 " 5th. That the treaty signed by the king of the Sand- 
 wich Islands, as well as the sum above mentioned, be 
 conveyed on board the frigate PArtemise by one of the 
 principal chiefs of the country ; and also that the batte- 
 ries of Honolulu do salute the French flag with twenty- 
 one guns, which will be returned by the frigate. 
 
 " These are the equitable conditions, at the price of 
 which, the king of the Sandwich Islands shall conserve 
 friendship with France. I am induced to hope, that, un- 
 derstanding better how necessary it is for the prosperity 
 of his people and the preservation of his power, he will 
 remain in peace with the whole world, and hasten to 
 subscribe to them, and thus imitate the laudable example 
 which the queen of Tahiti has given in permitting the 
 free toleration of the Catholic religion in her dominions ; 
 but, if contrary to my expectations, it should be other- 
 wise, and the king and the principal chiefs of the Sand- 
 wich Islands, led on by bad counsellors, refuse to sign the 
 treaty which I present, war will immediately commence, 
 and all the devastations, all the calamities, which may be 
 the unhappy but necessary results, will be imputed to 
 themselves alone, and they must also pay the losses which 
 the aggrieved foreigners, in these circumstances, shall 
 have a right to reclaim. 
 
 "The 10th July, (9th according to date here,) 1839. 
 Captain of the French frigate 1'Artemise. 
 
 "C. LA PLACE." 
 
 At the same time, communications were sent to the 
 American and to the British consul. The following is a 
 translation of the note to the British consul : 
 
 Official letter from Captain La Place of the French frigate to the 
 British Consul. 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 " MONSIEUR LE CONSUL, 
 
 " Having been sent by my government to put an qnd to 
 the ill treatment to which, under the false pretexts of Ca- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 257 
 
 tholicity, the French have been subjected for several years 
 in this archipelago, my intention is to commence hostili- 
 ties the 13th July, (which is the twelfth of your date,) at 
 12 A. M., against the king of the Sandwich Islands, should 
 he refuse to accede immediately to the just conditions of 
 the treaty presented by me, the clauses of which I explain 
 in the Manifesto of which I have the honor of sending 
 you a copy. Should this chief, contrary to my expecta- 
 tion, persist in his blindness, or to express myself more 
 plainly, to follow the advice of interested counsellors to 
 deceive himself, I will be constrained, in this case, to em- 
 ploy the strong means of force, which I have at my dis- 
 position. I consider it my duty to inform you, Monsieur 
 le Consul, that I offer asylum and protection on board 
 the frigate PArtemise to those of your compatriots who 
 may apprehend danger, under these circumstances, on 
 the part of the natives, either for their persons or pro- 
 perty. 
 
 " Receive, Monsieur le Consul, the assurance of the 
 very distinguished considerations of your devoted servant, 
 
 " Post-captain commanding the ship PArtemise, 
 
 "C.LAPLACE." 
 
 If Captain La Place had paused here, however the 
 Americans might have called in question his courtesy, 
 they would not legitimately have complained. But it 
 was not so. He sent a letter similar to the last to the 
 American Consul, offering him and some of his fellow 
 citizens protection, with the following additional clause, 
 excluding others from the offer, and marking them out as 
 the objects on which his vengeance and arms were to fall, 
 in the event of an attack upon the town. 
 
 " I do not, however, include in this class the individuals 
 who, although born, it is said, in the United States, make 
 a part of the Protestant clergy of the chief of this archi- 
 pelago, direct his councils, influence his conduct, and are 
 the true authors of the insults given by him to France. 
 
 FOR ME THEY COMPOSE A PART OF THE NATIVE POPULATION, 
 AND MUST UNDERGO THE UNHAPPY CONSEQUENCES OF A WAR 
 WHICH THEY SHALL HAVE BROUGHT ON THIS COUNTRY.' 
 
258 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 What is the exhibition of things presented to us here ? 
 An armed French ship anchoring within cannon-shot dis- 
 tance of the town of Honolulu, with every means of com- 
 municating with a helpless and harmless government, but, 
 without asking for any explanation, presenting ex parte 
 accusations, and making peremptory demands of the sur- 
 render of the sovereign's prerogative, the cession of lands, 
 and the deposit of twenty thousand dollars as security for 
 the future obsequious obedience of his Hawaiian majesty, 
 Kammahamaha III., to the king of the French people ! 
 Nor is this all nor is it one half. Along those streets of 
 Honolulu, and in full view and reach of the shotted guns 
 of a French ship of war, are a number of interesting fami- 
 lies, who, for their intelligence, urbanity, and generous 
 self-devotion to the cause of philanthropy and the Chris- 
 tian religion, would do honor to any Christian and civil- 
 ized nation, as they have abundantly honored, as American 
 citizens, the people of the United States ; but now they 
 are denounced, expatriated, proscribed, and pointed out 
 by a French post-captain, as the specific mark, in case of 
 hostilities, for the " devastations," " calamities," insults and 
 horrors, threatened by cannonading, and by the landing 
 of a lawless crew from a French man-of-war. Vive le 
 roi ! Vive la belle nation ! Vive la France chevaleresque ! 
 Here were women and children of inoffensive families, 
 comprising the greater part of the female population of 
 the foreign residents, to whom it was the part of a gallant 
 and brave officer to have hastened to offer his protection, 
 rather than to commit them to the merciless fortunes of 
 war not only, but, by a written manifesto, to mark them 
 out as the particular objects of displeasure, who are to 
 await the massacre and rapine of an attack which, it is 
 said, the French commander affirmed should be carried 
 " to the knife." 
 
 But, it was American citizens who were thus denoun- 
 ced, expatriated, proscribed, and threatened. Here, then, 
 the French commander and his consulate adviser have 
 trod on ground that will burn them before they are over 
 it. And what American citizen, looking upon such an 
 insult to the broad seal affixed to the protections of his 
 fellow-citizens abroad, does not rise indignant, and de- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 259 
 
 mand that a proper investigation and reparation be made 
 for an inanity done to the citizenship of his nation? 
 And who,, without a blush, can read the insulting para- 
 graph,-, addressed to the American consul by Captain La 
 Place, offering him and some of his " compatriots" a pro- 
 tection which was withheld from others of his fellow- 
 citizens ? The insulting note should have been hurled 
 back with the proud declaration, that he accepted not, 
 and needed not, any protection which was withheld from 
 other American citizens ; and that neither they nor him- 
 self wished for any other shield than they would find be- 
 neath the known folds of their own nation's flag. 
 
 It requires that persons should be placed in similar cir- 
 cumstances of the American missionaries, rightly to esti- 
 mate their feelings, when suddenly appears in the harbor 
 a foreign man-of-war, threatening war to the nation, and 
 offering protection to all other foreign residents excepting 
 themselves ; and not only so, but particularly pointing them 
 out as criminally associated with the government, and the 
 legitimate authors of the insults which the foreign ship 
 came to redress ; and declaring that THEY would be to the 
 invading force as a part of the native population. The 
 missionaries feared nothing from the native populace it 
 was the bayonets, the rapine, and the insult of a French 
 crew, with themselves already pointed out as the game to 
 be hunted down, from which they wished protection. And 
 in the hour of their distress, they gathered with their fami- 
 lies wives and children to the rooms of the repository, 
 and with fasting and prayer asked the protection of heaven 
 for themselves, and the helpless mother and her offspring. 
 Agitated and distressed, away from the strong arm of the 
 nation whose protection, although they bore the scroll of 
 their citizenship with them, they could not now seek 
 proscribed in a written document, and pointed out as the 
 particular objects of vengeance they offered up their de- 
 votion and reassured themselves in the protection of their 
 God. Behold them, citizens of the United States ! Has 
 it come to this, that the sealed protection of your country 
 avails you nothing ? Behold the gathered band, who have 
 left far behind them privileges, and friends, and refine- 
 ment, for a life of benevolent action among a benighted 
 
 49 
 
260 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 people, who have learned to appreciate their action, but 
 are a small nation, with their inexperience and lively 
 imaginations depicting to themselves the terrors that may 
 soon await them. The mother looks upon her offspring 
 with the trembling heart of female dependence, and sheds 
 her tears over them as she thinks of the possibility of being 
 left to the mercies of an attacking enemy that has declared 
 them to be his foes. See it, American citizens ! your fel- 
 low compatriots not only, but women and children of fam- 
 ilies, than whom, in the connections of some of them, 
 America boasts not prouder in antiquity and influence, 
 marked out as objects of insult and massacre for a French 
 crew. Is this to be endured this to be passed over? 
 No ! there is not one of you, in whose bosom the pure 
 blood of American freemen courses, untainted in senti- 
 ment and alliance with a foreign and popish hierarch, but 
 will kindle at the insult, and ask due reparation for such 
 measures in high disregard of the rights of American citi- 
 zenship. Let a few examples like this pass unnoticed, and 
 your government parchment and your national bunting 
 shall both become, the one a useless scroll save only to 
 mortify and to disgrace, the other a floating emblem on the 
 breeze, for the taunt rather than for the respect and con- 
 siderate deference of other nations. 
 
 The visit of the French frigate 1'Artemise to the Sand- 
 wich Islands was an incident of deep interest, in its bear- 
 ing on the rights of American missionaries abroad ; and 
 it merits, in connection with the action of Captain La Place 
 and the principles and affirmations embraced in his mani- 
 festo, an extended consideration. I have therefore treated 
 at length the high-handed measures enacted at the islands, 
 which, at least, involve in disgrace the French consul, if 
 it touches not the honor of the post-captain. But it will 
 be impossible to condense my manuscript so as to intro- 
 duce it into these volumes. 1 shall therefore reserve it for 
 a volume by itself, to follow as a sequel to the Flag Ship. 
 It will contain various official papers of the island govern- 
 ment, correspondence of Commodore Read, the American 
 consul, and others, and an exposure of the facts in the 
 case all going to show the false positions assumed in the 
 manifesto, the unjustifiable measures of the French, and a 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 261 
 
 defence of the missionaries, and an assertion of their 
 rights, which will, or which should, exhibit these late trans- 
 actions to the disgrace of the opposers of the missionary 
 action at the islands, and show that, instead of exposure 
 to the force of a foreign power, to defamation, and to in- 
 sult, the missionaries merit the protection of their own gov- 
 ernment, and the approbation and the admiration of all the 
 good, and the world. 
 
 " For me," says the post-captain, " the missionaries com- 
 pose a part of the native population." " FOR ME !" Here 
 is proscription, with a vengeance ! A French post-captain 
 taking upon himself to identify American citizens abroad 
 with the nation towards which he threatens immediate hos- 
 tilities; and declaring that they are the particular persons 
 who have brought disaster on the people, and shall be given 
 up to the common ravages of a hostile attack. "For me, 
 they compose a part of the native population /" Let it be 
 known, ,to the honor* of American female character, at 
 home and abroad, that when hostilities had ceased, and the 
 French commander had signified that he would pay his 
 compliments to the ladies of the mission, if invited, they 
 deemed it beneath the propriety of an American matron 
 to open their society to an officer who had used the lan- 
 guage contained in the letter to the American consul. It 
 is said that an English officer boasted to Franklin, at the 
 commencement of the revolution, that, with a thousand 
 men, he would march from Massachusetts Bay to Georgia. 
 " The women of America would whip you with their broom- 
 sticks" was Franklin's reply. The daughters are not un- 
 worthy of their mothers. 
 
 But I shall pass from this subject, so far as these volumes 
 are concerned, by simply introducing a document signed 
 by the ward-room officers of our squadron, expressing their 
 sentiments towards the American missionaries, their unlim- 
 ited confidence in their sincerity, and their admiration of 
 their success. They felt a becoming displeasure towards 
 
 >the parties concerned in furthering the measures of the 
 French consul, and of their own accord gave the mission- 
 aries the accompanying paper. It was to head a pamph- 
 let containing other documents, which, together, exhibit in 
 their true light the action of the French at the islands ; the 
 
262 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 severe and cruel necessity of submission to which the na- 
 tive government was reduced ; the entire innocence of the 
 missionaries of the charges brought against them in the 
 manifesto ; and the hate and inveteracy of a miserable 
 clique, who have long been the persecutors of these worthy 
 and devoted men and women, whose praise is written in 
 their self-sacrificing, benevolent, and successful action. 
 
 "We, the undersigned, officers of the United States 
 East India squadron, having, upon our arrival at this 
 place, heard various rumors in relation and derogatory to 
 the American mission at these islands, feel it to be due, not 
 only to the missionaries themselves, but to the cause of 
 truth and justice, that the most unqualified testimony should 
 be given in the case ; and do, therefore, order one thou- 
 sand copies of the annexed article and correspondence to 
 be printed for gratuitous distribution, as being the most 
 effectual mode of settling this agitated question in the 
 minds of an intelligent and liberal public. 
 
 " Being most decidedly of opinion that the persons 
 composing the Protestant mission of these islands are 
 American citizens, and, as such, entitled to the protection 
 which our government has never withheld ; and with un- 
 wavering confidence in the justice which has ever charac- 
 terized it, we rest assured that any insult offered to this 
 unoffending class will be promptly redressed. 
 
 " It is readily admitted that there may be in the opera- 
 tion of this, as in all other systems in which feeble man 
 has any agency, some objectionable peculiarities ; still, as a 
 system, it is deemed comparatively unexceptionable, and 
 believed to have been pursued in strict accordance with 
 the professed principles of the society which it represents ; 
 and it would seem that the salutary influence exerted by 
 the mission on the native population, ought to commend 
 it to the confidence and kind feelings of all interested in 
 the dissemination of good principles. 
 
 GEORGE A. MAGRUDER, Lieutenant. 
 
 ANDREW H. FOOT, Lieutenant. 
 
 JOHN W. TURK, Lieutenant. 
 
 THOMAS TURNER, Lieutenant. 
 
 JAMES S. PALMER, Lieutenant 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 263 
 
 EDWARD R. THOMPSON, Lieutenant. 
 AUGUSTUS H. KELTY, Lieutenant. 
 GEORGE B. MINOR, Lieutenant. 
 JOHN HASLETT, Surgeon of the Feet. 
 JOHN A. LOCKWOOD, Surgeon. 
 DANGERFIELD FAUNTLEROY, Purser. 
 FITCH W. TAYLOR, Chaplain. 
 ROBERT P. PEGRAM, Master. 
 JOSEPH BEALE, Assistant Surgeon. 
 J. HENSHAW BELCHER, Prof, of Mathematics. 
 ALEXANDER G. PENDLETON, Prof of Math. 
 "Honolulu, Oahu November 1st, 1839." 
 
 The order that all officers should be on board Saturday 
 evening, the second of November, thirty days after our 
 reaching Honolulu Roads, gave to all the assurance that 
 our ships were again to move on their way to our next 
 stopping-place ; and that in a few hours more we were to 
 leave the island where we had paused for health, for 
 friendly intercourse, and reciprocated civilities. I had 
 taken leave of a number of friends during the day, and 
 notes of farewell went to others, who will very long be 
 remembered in the many and agreeable associations con- 
 nected with Honolulu. On Monday morning early, the 
 John Adams was standing out from the inner harbor, with 
 our own ship leading the way from the outer roads, to sea. 
 A few hours more, and the island of Oahu was lost in the 
 distance. 
 
 We are assured the visit of the East India squadron 
 will not soon be forgotten at Honolulu, nor throughout the 
 Sandwich Islands ; and are happy in the declaration of 
 the missionaries, in a kind farewell note sent to the Com- 
 modore, that the ships will bear with them more than the 
 kind wishes of those we are leaving, while they shall be 
 sailing on their course as the receding but remembered 
 objects of their prayers. 
 
 *49 
 
264 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 SECTION IX. 
 
 SOCIETY ISLANDS. 
 
 Island of Tahiti. Papeete Bay. Queen Pomare. Captain Cook. Point 
 Venus. Ride to Mattavai Bay. Tea at Mr. Pritchard's. Sunday ashore. 
 Two Sundays come together. The Author addresses the Natives, and 
 the Chiefs respond. The Frigate 1'Artemise at the Society Islands. Letter 
 from the English Consul to the Author. Coral Forest. Ships leave the 
 Society Islands. 
 
 AFTER a passage of thirty-one days, we reached the 
 harbor of Papeete, island of Tahiti, without incident of 
 sufficient interest for record, save the crossing, for the third 
 time, the equator. It was a fair night, November the 
 twenty-seventh, and in longitude 141 W. We had been 
 previously beating to the windward, to make our easting, 
 and experienced much rainy weather. But this was all 
 now left behind us, as our ship was standing south with a 
 fine breeze and clear sky, and the band giving forth its 
 mellow strains as the beautiful Columbia was waltzing, in 
 grace and symmetry, across the line. Still getting easting, 
 in a few days we made one of the Marquesan islands, and 
 thence took our departure southwesterly for Tahiti. The 
 last three days was a fine run, and the " Queen of the 
 Pacific," as this green isle of the ocean has been called, 
 rose to our view, when we were still leagues at sea. We 
 approached it from the northeast, passing Point Venus ; 
 and gaining a pilot at the report of our gun off the Bay 
 of Papeete, stood in through the narrow and fearful pass, 
 for a frigate, to the coral in-hemmed basin, on whose still 
 bosom the Columbia is now peacefully lying. 
 
 The ship having passed through the narrow break in 
 the reef, which forms the pass to the harbor, now rests at 
 her anchor near in to the shore, in deep water, with num- 
 bers of coral islets rising in different parts of the basin so 
 as to appear on the surface at low water ; while the outer 
 reef, with the exception of the narrow break, sweeps its 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 265 
 
 circular wall of protection, over which the foam breaks 
 in its beautiful line of white, like a bead of nature's filla- 
 gree work, inlaying its narrow silver line either way, on 
 the blue field of the deep. 
 
 The present queen, Pomare, sovereign of the Society 
 Islands, is residing some twenty or thirty miles from Pa- 
 peete. The late visit of the French frigate 1'Artemise 
 has made her alarmed at the approach of men-of-war, 
 and it is said that those in authority of our own nation 
 the present and the ex-consul have used language to her 
 majesty that has made her apprehend danger from the 
 visit of our squadron. But whatever may have been the 
 representations of these functionaries to the department 
 at home, the United States government has not thought it 
 fit to specify any grievances to be redressed by the arm 
 of power. The particular and the only object that called 
 our squadron to these islands, was, besides the showing 
 of a naval force in these seas, to inquire into the assault 
 made upon the persons of the late American consul and 
 his wife, with the intent to murder and of robbery, by 
 ruffians, who were to be dealt with as the circumstances 
 of the case in evidence should require. 
 
 The name of the lamented and gifted Cook will always 
 be associated with the islands of these seas, and most par- 
 ticularly with the Sandwich and the Society Islands, the 
 first as being their discoverer, and the spot where his life 
 was so abruptly terminated ; and the Society Islands, as 
 the point of his visits and scientific observations. It was 
 at Point Venus, seven miles from our anchorage, where 
 Captain Cook fixed his tent on shore for the purpose of 
 making his observations on the transit of Venus in 1769. 
 The point derives its name from this circumstance. A 
 beautiful ride and the residence of a missionary family at 
 the spot, with its many associations of interest, induced 
 me to accept the proffer of a horse from the English con- 
 sul and the company of Mr. Johnson for a visit to this 
 point. The road is an embowered way nearly its length, 
 save where it leads directly along the beach in view of 
 the tumbling surf, which curls its lip along every identa- 
 tion of the several bays, and gives forth a voice of thunder 
 as it rolls upon the beach. This magnificent display of 
 
266 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the high surf where it comes in from the sea uninterrupted 
 by the reefs, and first breaks upon the beach, is of itself a 
 grand phenomenon that can never cease to interest the 
 eye and the ear, for its mingled beauty and grandeur. 
 
 The bread-fruit tree was everywhere abundant on our 
 way, and the yellow limes lay thick beneath many a luxu- 
 riant tree, like the apples of the north that have strewed 
 the orchard where they have ripened with the later days 
 of summer and the earliest sear of autumn. The green 
 orange-trees were clustered with bunches of the magnifi- 
 cent fruit in endless quantities ; and the guavas, in their 
 wild and rapid spread, are taking possession of the island ; 
 all presenting a supply of food for these islands, with their 
 native cocoa-nut, that will always keep them an indolent 
 people. They have but to raise their hands and pick their 
 food from the trees that wave above their heads, and live 
 and be happy, so long as life has no further charm to them 
 than eating and drinking, and sleeping, and sleeping again 
 and waking and eating and drinking. 
 
 Point Venus forms one horn of Mattavai bay, into which 
 many vessels enter instead of Papeete bay, where our ship 
 is anchored. The U. S. exploring squadron were anchored 
 there but a few months since, on their first reaching the 
 island, and Commodore Wilks (for so the young command- 
 er is styled, and with a pennant at his main is rightly so 
 addressed) pitched his tent for observation on the same spot 
 where Cook seventy years ago raised his. And here lay 
 the Bounty, whose story is one of romance, and origina- 
 ting the poem of the " Island," from Byron's pen. The 
 visit of the exploring squadron to this island is spoken 
 favorably of by the missionary families. Commodore 
 Wilks, Captain Hudson and officers inspected the schools, 
 and presents were distributed to the children and native 
 teachers. The ships, after spending a short time at Mat- 
 tavai bay, anchored where our own ships are moored, as 
 the more convenient and safe harbor. 
 
 We dined with the Rev. Mr. Wilson and family. 
 
 Our ride back from Point Venus, was alike pleasant 
 along the embowered road of the ever resounding beach, 
 passing the mausoleum of the ruling family, containing the 
 bodies of the Pomares; and amused at times by witnessing 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 267 
 
 the young Tahitians, whose element is the water, diving 
 beneath the surf as it rolled its immense swell above their 
 heads, and broke in foam and thunder on the shore. 
 
 I took tea with the Rev. Mr. Pritchard, who has the 
 appointment of British consul at these islands, and has been 
 long situated at Tahiti. Mrs. P. and Mrs. Joseph the wife 
 of the lately arrived missionary who is to occupy the field 
 at this place, are the only two European ladies resident at 
 Papeete whom I have met. There is no society here ; and 
 but little of interest, save the luxuriant display of nature in 
 the vegetable productions of the island. And these are not 
 numerous, so far as the trees of the plain are concerned. 
 The bread-fruit tree, the guava, lime, orange, and banana, 
 and a Chilian plum, a magnificent tree with the gran- 
 deur of a forest mammoth, are nearly all the variety that 
 meets the eye. These are all the natives need, with the 
 assistance of the taro and an indifferent sweet potato and 
 a mountain plantain. These trees bearing the year around, 
 serve to yield the necessaries of life to the indolent popu- 
 lation. 
 
 The natives are of a fairer complexion than the Sand- 
 wich Islanders, and some of them have interest of ex- 
 pression in their features. But they have generally (the 
 women) the high cheek bone and the flat nose and moon 
 face of the American Indian. 
 
 TWO SUNDAYS COME TOGETHER. 
 
 On Saturday the 13th I went ashore, to attend the re- 
 ligious services in the native church, and also, at a later 
 hour, at the seamen's chapel. It was the Sabbath at the 
 islands, their time differing from ours by one day, in con- 
 sequence of the missionaries not changing their reckoning, 
 as they should have done, on crossing the meridian of 
 180, having made their passage to these islands by the 
 way of the Cape of Good Hope and the Indies, like our- 
 selves. 
 
 The usual services on board the Columbia, the succeed- 
 ing day, exhibited this dissonance more strikingly than it 
 would otherwise have struck us. On their Sunday, the 
 preceding day, I addressed the natives, through the Rev. 
 
268 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Mr. Pritchard, as interpreter. When I had finished my 
 talk, a chief arose in his place and begged Mr. P. to inter- 
 pret his reply. My address, he said, he would wish me to 
 know was entirely understood, although I had spoken in 
 English, as it had been interpreted, sentence by sentence. 
 One illustration only (which was afterwards explained) 
 he had not fully comprehended. He had come down to 
 the church this morning not with the expectation of hear- 
 ing this speech, but he was glad that it had so happened. 
 They were glad to learn, as they had now been told, that 
 the religion which they had embraced was the same as 
 that of the English and the American people, and which the 
 American missionaries had borne to the Sandwich Islands, 
 as the English missionaries did to Tahiti. He knew not, 
 the chief continued, how it was with the rest, or rather he 
 could not answer for them in connection with one part of 
 my speech, where I urged them to " hold on to the reli- 
 gion they professed ;" but for one he would say that it 
 was his determination to do so. He believed in the sin- 
 cerity of our friendly visit, so different from some they had 
 lately received. 
 
 The manner of this chief was very easy, and his ap- 
 pearance, dressed in European style, was not different 
 from that of a Spaniard or Portuguese, in his summer dress 
 of thin white. 
 
 Another chief rose, with assurances that all feelings 
 of kindness for their religious welfare were reciprocated 
 to the stranger, and that their prayers would be given for 
 me. Indeed they prayed for all clergymen, he said, that 
 they may be prospered in their labors, except Romish 
 priests they could not pray that their labors might be 
 prospered. This was said with great gravity, in connec- 
 tion with the action of the Catholic priests and the French 
 man-of-war at these islands. No particular reference had 
 been made to Romanism in the address that had been de- 
 livered by myself. 
 
 Others spoke ; and the scene was entirely unique and 
 unexpected, not only to myself, but I believe to Mr. P. 
 also, as he seemed to have been taken by surprise. But 
 the greater interest was added to the meeting from this 
 spontaneous burst of feeling from the chiefs, in which the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 269 
 
 other natives of the congregation sympathized, to the oc- 
 casional audible expression of their interest, as the speak- 
 ing proceeded, in their rejoinders. 
 
 It is not within my purpose to extend my descriptions 
 in connection with the Society Islands, or reflections upon 
 measures lately pursued here. The islanders have been 
 forced, as at the Sandwich Islands, into a treaty with the 
 French, in connection with the Roman Catholic religion, 
 which was made in view of threatened war and conflagra- 
 tion, giving the natives no alternative but to accept the 
 conditions proposed. There is one particular, however, 
 that must strike the American. No public exception was 
 made, so far as I know, to the action of the English mis- 
 sionaries here, notwithstanding it is known, and not pre- 
 tended to be concealed, that the English missionaries have 
 advised the native government, and accepted judicial ap- 
 pointments under it. Why is this ? Did France feel that 
 it was a, more delicate subject for her to meddle with Eng- 
 lishmen than with Americans ; and when, too, there was 
 positive and acknowledged proof in the action of the Eng- 
 lish, and none, either acknowledged or in fact existing, in 
 the case of the American missionaries ? The course of 
 the two missions, in their policy, has been different the 
 American missionaries carefully abstaining from interfer- 
 ing with the acts of the native government, according to 
 their orders from the Board of missions at home and the 
 English missionaries, on the contrary, making it a point 
 openly to use their influence with the powers that are. 
 We leave the American citizen and the American govern- 
 ment to draw their conclusions on this subject, and con- 
 tent ourselves by quoting the following communication of 
 H. B. M. Consul Mr. rritchard, already several times 
 mentioned, and well known for his long residence at Ta- 
 hiti, and for the energetic action in his Christian efforts in 
 behalf of these people. 
 
 " Tahiti, December 20, 1839. 
 " REV. AND DEAR SIR, 
 
 " I hereby send you a copy of the letter sent by Du 
 Petit Thours, Commodore of the French frigate Venus, to 
 Pomare, Queen of Tahiti. Also a copy of the treaty 
 
270 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 formed between A. Du Petit Thours, on the part of the 
 French government, and Queen Pomare. The requisitions 
 contained in the letter were fulfilled. As the natives were 
 not able to raise the money demanded, a few of us for- 
 eigners united, and paid the sum of $2000. 
 
 " At the time the treaty was formed a public meeting 
 was held in the large church. At this meeting the native 
 authorities stated that they were willing to receive French- 
 men, and to treat them well ; but suppose French priests 
 should come were they, the authorities, obliged to allow 
 them to teach the Roman Catholic religion ? The Com- 
 modore, A. Du Petit Thours, replied, No ; if they did not 
 wish the Roman Catholic religion to be taught in Queen 
 Pomare's dominions, they might enact a law to that effect. 
 Some little time after, when the Legislature met, they en- 
 acted a law, prohibiting all except the Protestant religion 
 being taught in Queen Pomare's dominions. 
 
 " In a few months after this, the Artemise, Captain La 
 Place, came. I was from home at this time, but since my 
 return I have been informed that the frigate struck upon 
 a rock on the north side of Tahiti, when, had it not been 
 for the timely assistance of the natives, the vessel would 
 have been lost. She was thoroughly repaired at Tahiti. 
 The Frenchmen were allowed to cut down timber where- 
 ever they pleased, by paying the owner of the land a cer- 
 tain sum for each tree. About four hundred natives were 
 employed for some weeks, pumping, who received twenty- 
 jive cents for twenty-four hours 1 labor. 
 
 " After the Artemise had been repaired, and was all 
 ready for sea, the Frenchmen put themselves in a most 
 hostile position. The first thing demanded was, that the 
 law in reference to the Roman Catholic religion be abro- 
 gated. If the Tahitian government would not agree to 
 this, two hundred and fifty men, armed, were to be landed, 
 who would first set fire to the Protestant church, then the 
 queen's house, afterwards the houses of the chiefs and 
 common people, and thus destroy the town. The poor 
 Tahitians were frightened into a compliance. The law 
 was abrogated. They then insisted upon having a Ro- 
 man Catholic chapel built at this station, professedly for 
 the benefit of French seamen calling at this port. This 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 271 
 
 demand was accompanied with the same threats. At 
 length it was agreed that they should have a chapel, but 
 that service should be performed in the French language 
 only. This being settled, they then insisted upon having 
 a Roman Catholic chapel at every station wherever there 
 was a Protestant one, and the service performed in the 
 Tahitian language. Their threats were such as led the 
 natives to believe that there was no alternative ; that they 
 must agree to all demands made by Captain La Place, or 
 commence hostilities with a powerful nation, against which 
 they are not able to stand. Thus the French obtained all 
 they desired, and went away exulting in what they had 
 accomplished among the poor helpless natives. 
 
 " We are now daily expecting Roman Catholic priests 
 to enter in among us and sow the seeds of discord in this 
 field of missionary labor, which probably may terminate 
 in a civil war. 
 
 "I cannot now enlarge. Wishing you the best of 
 blessings, 
 
 " I remain, very affectionately yours, 
 
 " G. PRITCHARD. 
 " To the Rev. Fitch W. Taylor, Chaplain U. S. Frigate Columbia." 
 
 CORAL FORESTS. 
 
 I know not that Mrs. Stickney, in her Poetry of Na- 
 ture, or Mr. Montgomery, in his descriptions of things 
 which are poetical, has made mention of the coral forests 
 of the sea. There is not in nature a grouping of forms 
 and blending of colors more beautiful and gorgeous than 
 is presented in the fantastic variety of a coral field in the 
 deep. These islands of the Pacific are hemmed around 
 by one line of coral reef, broken here and there so as to 
 form inlets into the quiet basins, which constitute the har- 
 bors of the islands. 
 
 The sheet of water on which we are moored being per- 
 fectly calm, I jumped into a canoe paddled by a single 
 native, and told him to shoot the fragile thing towards the 
 outer reef, over which the breakers were tumbling so as 
 to leave their beautiful line of white, ever seen, dividing 
 the waters of the blue deep without from the deep waters 
 
 50 
 
272 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of the basin within. We came to the shoaling water of 
 one of the coral islets, whose submarine formation had 
 neared the surface of the basin. It was a beautiful sight 
 as I looked down to the submerged forests below, over 
 which the canoe rested without rippling the surface of the 
 still water, through which the eye gazed to the coral 
 groves below. And you might fancy them whatever you 
 chose forests, grottoes castle halls, with red rooms 
 and green rooms and all a gorgeous scene of beautiful 
 grouping and coloring. Here were fields of branching 
 ferns in all their beautiful regularity of frond and here, 
 the matted folia of more irregular shrub and here, the 
 mushroom, with its radia converging to their common 
 centre, and bounded at their diverging extremes by a 
 common curved line, and laying their oval and circular 
 forms among the shrub, or vine, or stem, or leaf, wherever 
 there seemed a vacancy, like a rose in the filling up of a 
 piece of carved fret-work, in ornamental architecture. 
 And here again branched off, in heavier proportions, the 
 resemblances of the cactus or prickly pear ; and then, still 
 higher, rise the antlers of leafless but spotless alabaster 
 boughs of a wider forest, overtopping the ferns and lower 
 shrubbery. And then, the colors and the grouping ! Here 
 was the delicate pink, that seemed to blush at its own con- 
 sciousness of loveliness ; and there the circular group 
 fringed with purple ; and again, a deep hall of azure ; and 
 the cactus arrayed in green, with its edges lightening to 
 a brilliant fringe of gold. Beautiful residences and forest- 
 rambles for the Peri of the deep ! My Tahitian, without 
 remorse of conscience, committed sacrilege upon these 
 golden, and azure, and sapphire halls, as he invaded the 
 submarine forests and replenished the canoe with speci- 
 mens of the different-colored sea gems for my pleasure. 
 
 We glided over to the Queen's Island, the little islet 
 studding the coral flat; and securing from its solitary 
 resident a variety of curious shells, were again returning 
 to the shore before the bay became sufficiently disturbed 
 to roll its mimic billows over the side of the canoe. 
 
 The wind being fair on the 19th of December, and 
 deemed sufficiently fresh to take the ships from the harbor 
 through the narrow opening in the reef, to sea, a signal to 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 273 
 
 the Adams was made for her to get under way the pilot 
 being on board of her, and directed to return for the frigate 
 after the Adams had been taken through the reef. The 
 beautiful corvette let fall her sails and was away, fearlessly 
 standing out through the pass, with the breakers foaming 
 on either bow, and apparently nearly tumbling into her 
 fore-chains, so closely do the ships stand to the edge of the 
 abruptly broken reef, whose extreme points nearly meeting 
 leave their position distinctly marked by the cessation of 
 the white line of the breakers, which loses itself in the 
 deep water of the narrow pass. The topsails of the Adams 
 were soon aback, awaiting for our own movements ; but 
 before the pilot was aboard the frigate, the wind had fallen 
 again, and as our sails, which had been loosened, were 
 furled, the Adams filled away and stood to sea for the night. 
 The next morning a sail was seen in the distance, and ere 
 long the full outline of our consort was made out, as she 
 stood on and off until another day passed ; and the wind 
 still failing to offer an opportunity for our getting to sea, 
 the Adams again sought her safety from a coral-bound 
 shore for the night, in the far offing. 
 
 The day had been mild, and hardly a handful of wind 
 had been poured over the unrippled bay on which we were 
 lying ; and all expectation of putting to sea during the 
 afternoon had again ceased. But the still day had been 
 favorable for Pomare, the queen, to make her passage 
 along within the reef, from the direction of Point Venus, 
 where it was supposed she might have spent the preceding 
 night ; and at four o'clock a line of whale-boats were seen 
 standing from that direction, and soon passed near the 
 stern of the Columbia. They bore her majesty, with her 
 train. 
 
 The experience we already had of the last two days, 
 showed the possibility of a longer detention than was 
 desired, and the propriety of securing the first wind that 
 should offer for getting to sea. The Commodore, there- 
 fore, made a call upon her majesty, the same afternoon of 
 her arrival, and repeated, in person, the substance of com- 
 munications which had been left for her. 
 
 The next morning a breeze from the land, before the 
 sun had looked over the hills of Tahiti, called forth the 
 
274 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 summons of " all hands to get under way ;" and in safety, 
 and with a welcome that spoke still stronger than ever of 
 our nearing our yet distant home, we were again at sea. 
 A few hours more of light and of sailing from this Island- 
 Queen of the South Seas, and the Adams had come down 
 to us. Together we are now standing on our course, to 
 the west coast of South America. 
 
 SECTION X. 
 
 SOUTH AMERICA. 
 VALPARAISO AND SANTIAGO. 
 
 Land Ho ! South American coast. The sick at sea. Harbor of Valparai- 
 so. Letters from home. Dine with the American Consul. Christening 
 of his babe. Meet Mr. and Mrs. Chauncey and others. Preach at the 
 private chapel, where the Protestants worship. An analogy. Santiago. 
 Great altar in the cathedral. The Seiiora Carmen Bargas de Alexandri. 
 Tertulia. Mass at the cathedral. Calls on different persons at Santiago. 
 The President, Joaquin Prie'to. American Charge d' Affaires. Return 
 to Valparaiso. Dine with Admiral Ross. Farewell leave of the Amer- 
 ican families. Getting under way, and away. 
 
 " LAND Ho !" was cried from the top yesterday, January 
 21, 1840 ; and we are to-day standing along the coast of 
 South America, having made our run from the Society 
 Islands in the unusually short passage of twenty-nine days 
 from land to land. We only wait a breeze to put us into 
 the harbor of Valparaiso, being a few miles south of the 
 city. The outline of the coast lies distinctly before us, 
 high land elevating itself in the interior, but less abrupt in 
 its distant appearance than the islands among which we 
 had been sailing in the Pacific. And this is the long ex- 
 pected west coast of South America. And how many, how 
 full, how thrilling are the more than ten thousand associ- 
 ations which rush to the mind ! How one re-lives over the 
 first days of his existence, as he gazes for the first time 
 on lands and on seas, about which he has read but before 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 275 
 
 has never seen ! He calls back all the feelings of romance 
 and adventurous longing with which he read, in his young 
 days, the stories of travel, heroism, chivalry, war, blood- 
 shed, tyranny, benevolence, adventurers singly and in 
 armies, the establishment and the overthrow of empires. 
 It makes one's life more than a double one. Pizarro, Mon- 
 tezuma, mines of silver and gold and other ores, and In- 
 dian toils, and Mexican and Peruvian wealth, are all words 
 which have originated ideas in our young days, and served 
 in their future combinations of the mind, in its imaginings 
 and analyses, to form the thinking and feeling being that 
 constitutes one's particular self. 
 
 THE SICK AND THE CHAPLAIN. 
 
 One of the sick men I visited this morning I found yet 
 more unwell. I had marked him often on the upper-deck, 
 and was always struck by the soft and subdued tone of his 
 voice. He was in the sick-bay this morning, and I sup- 
 posed he was improving. " How are you, Mathews?" I 
 asked kindly, as I had often before spoken to him. "Your 
 cot being moved, I supposed you had gone to take a walk." 
 
 " I am very unwell, sir," he replied, in a plaintive tone, 
 as he placed his hand upon his side, indicating the point of 
 his pain. " I cannot move, sir. I wish God would be 
 pleased to take me out of this world, sir ; but I have been 
 so sinful, sir." And here the young sailor put the back of 
 his hand to his face, to wipe away the tears that flowed 
 successively down his cheek. 
 
 I could hardly restrain my own tears as I marked his 
 sunken spirits, and his tone of voice so mild and suppressed, 
 while I sat beside him and continued my conversation, 
 
 The Saviour, I assured him, came to save sinners, not 
 those who deemed themselves righteous. It was the broken 
 heart he asked. He showed his love towards us, in this, 
 that while we were yet sinners Christ died for us. He 
 willeth not the death of a sinner, but rather that all should 
 come to repentance. I doubted not but that he had been 
 very sinful ; but it was well if he so felt it, and a conscious- 
 ness of it had brought him to feel that he had nothing to 
 recommend him to the favor of his God, and that he need- 
 
 50* 
 
276 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ed his pardon. I endeavored to guide his mind, while he 
 continued to weep. And as I asked of his education, I 
 learned, as is usually the case where these feelings are 
 found, that his "mother used to read good books and had 
 talked to him of religion." And that mother, I thought 
 whatever might be her situation in life was yet a mother, 
 with a mother's feelings ; and what would be the swellings 
 of her bosom could she look upon her dying son ! 
 
 I returned to my room and wept over the scene of the 
 sadness and stricken spirit of this young man, so humble, 
 so mild, so indescribably gentle in the expression of his 
 voice, and penitent in the appreciation of his own charac- 
 ter and unworthiness. How unlike another to whom I had 
 spoken but a moment before, who said he had long been 
 suffering, and wished he was out of the world ! I asked 
 what he considered would be his situation were he at once 
 removed, according to his expressed wish ? " It could not 
 be much worse, sir, anyhow," he replied, with as much 
 grumness of voice as the technical deference of the ship 
 service would allow. But, I continued, if your suffering 
 here for so short a time is so distressing, how painful would 
 it be if that suffering were to continue for ever ! And if 
 you would wish to be relieved from your present suffering, 
 should you not strive, by a proper preparation to leave this 
 life, to be for ever free from that which will pain and ren- 
 der unhappy ? 
 
 The scenes often presented to the chaplain on board a 
 man-of-war are peculiar, and frequently they are feeling 
 beyond description. It must be so, where there are con- 
 gregated among the crew so many whose lives have been 
 reckless and immoral, and yet in their early days instruct- 
 ed in the principles of a Christian education. I have been 
 sent for by one who had declared himself an atheist, and 
 endeavored to spread his opinions among his messmates, 
 but on his dying cot desired to make a public declaration 
 of his folly. His forced convictions would not serve him, 
 he said, to die by, and he renounced them, and warned 
 others against a like folly of his own. It is to the chaplain 
 many a poor tar confides his last words, and tells, as a re- 
 lief to his own spirit, the incidents that led him from the 
 parental roof. " My father once struck me," said a young 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 277 
 
 man who first opened his feelings to me, as the tears in- 
 voluntarily traced their way down his cheeks, after I had 
 expressed my sympathy for his situation; "I could not brook 
 it my spirit was too haughty and I left home for ever. 
 But I would desire that they might hear from me." I as- 
 sured him that I would write, as he gave me their address, 
 a family in creditable circumstances of connection and pro- 
 perty. " I must die," he continued, after he had made 
 known all his wishes to me, and confided in my promise 
 to communicate with his family; "but now I can die more 
 willingly." He was a sensible man, and I trust possessed 
 at this hour the proper frame of mind for a being hourly 
 expecting to leave this for another world. 
 
 These are but a few of the many cases which have pre- 
 sented themselves in the sad mortality, which, at one time, 
 attended our crew. " I have sinned with an uplifted hand 
 and an outstretched arm," said another, " but it is too late 
 to remedy the past, and I can only supplicate my God to 
 forgive." I may never forget the prayers that this man 
 offered as I stood beside his dying hammock. His per- 
 sonal appearance, when in health, had attracted my inter- 
 est for his fine proportions and enviable figure. He died, 
 leaving a message for his wife, who constituted all his 
 family. 
 
 I have reason to believe that the presence of a chaplain 
 is always appreciated by the crew of a man-of-war. 
 They feel that they can speak to him as they cannot to a 
 watch-officer. And his Christian sympathies are often ap- 
 pealed to in his rounds among the sick, and other inter- 
 course with the men, when it can be known only to himself; 
 and the longest sea-going tar, whatever may have been 
 his course, feels it to be a consolation in his last hours to 
 know, that the service shall be performed, in decency and 
 solemnity, by the chaplain over his remains, at their inter- 
 ment, on land or in the deep. 
 
 HARBOR OF VALPARAISO. 
 
 The frigate's eight o'clock gun has been fired, and we 
 are at anchor in the harbor of Valparaiso. The music 
 from different ships of war, from three of the most power- 
 
278 
 
 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 VALPARAISO. 
 
 ful nations of the globe, is now hushed, and the bay sleeps 
 again in its stillness. A long bank of dark hills throw their 
 deep shade upon the water, as they sweep their crescent 
 battlement around the bay ; and here and there the lights 
 of the shore and from the inner shipping gleam sparklingly, 
 while the stars in the heavens twinkle from a pure and deep 
 sky, as the moon yet lingers behind the high Cordilleras. 
 The whole scene emblems forth much of the varied feel- 
 ings which swell different hearts on board our ship to- 
 night, after the perusal of the hundreds of letters which 
 were awaiting us at this port. Joy, grief/delight, sadness, 
 affectionate solicitudes answered, and fearful apprehensions 
 confirmed, bright hopes realized, dreams of happy intelli- 
 gence more than insured, all vary the mingled emotions, 
 which to-night hold many hearts in alternate happiness 
 and sorrow. Some have heard of the death of fathers 
 one, of a child some, of brothers others, of other kindred 
 and friends. Marriages, joyous incidents, and happy intel- 
 ligence crowd the letters of others. Here are things that 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 279 
 
 wake music mingled of the heart, as it breathes forth from 
 the line of joyous narrative, or swells in the ^Eolian strain 
 of plaintive intelligence, or lingers in the slow elegiac over 
 the memory of departed friends. A year has passed since 
 our last intelligence from home. My own letters contain 
 the mention of thirteen deaths of acquaintances and friends. 
 What a world of change is this ! But we would learn 
 even the worst, and end our suspense. And there will 
 ever be mingled, in all the circumstances of this existence, 
 the shade with the sunshine ; and the aching heart is never 
 far away from the outgushings of the most unalloyed en- 
 joyment. 
 
 The day succeeding our arrival at Valparaiso, I dined 
 with our consul, George G. Hobson, Esq., and his estimable 
 family. Their residence, with the other American fami- 
 lies, is delightfully situated on one of the hills immediately 
 overlooking the town, and commanding a full view of the 
 bay and its shipping, with the wide ocean extending fur- 
 ther out and bounding the distant horizon. The promenade 
 in front of the low cottage-formed houses is like a quar- 
 ter-deck, extending in length some two or three hundred 
 rods and three or four wide. The houses are constructed 
 with reference to earthquakes, not unfrequently occurring 
 here, though of late years unattended by the catastrophes 
 of earlier times. There are ruins of buildings yet to be 
 seen in the town, which have crumbled beneath the unrest 
 of these trembling regions. 
 
 Mrs. H. is an interesting lady from Maryland, and blessed 
 with a charming little group of daughters and one sweet 
 babe, who is their only and cherished boy. I record his 
 name in full here, and with interest, as a lovely child, whom 
 I baptized on the succeeding Sunday. May kind blessings 
 always attend the path of this same smiling little GEORGE 
 HOBSON. I met at Mr. Hobson's, at the christening of his 
 infant son, Mr. and Mrs. Chauncey, who occupy an adja- 
 cent building of the same cluster of houses. Mrs. C. was 
 a Miss A., of Middletown, Connecticut, and claims for the 
 young ladies of her native town a pre-eminence in beauty, 
 a particular, from which I was far from dissenting, having 
 had an opportunity, from personal observation, to confirm 
 the correctness of her estimate and taste. Two English 
 
280 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 young ladies were present, and several American and Eng- 
 lish gentlemen. 
 
 I had preached in the Protestant chapel in the morning, 
 which is fitted up in very good style, and, by sufferance, 
 allowed to exist as a private building in outward appear- 
 ance, being joined to a private dwelling as a part of it. The 
 government of the city say that they will not interfere, so 
 long as there shall exist no appearance externally of a Prot- 
 estant house of worship, though I have been informed that 
 an order from the ecclesiastical authority at Santiago has 
 been received at Valparaiso to have the doors of this build- 
 ing closed, and the congregation suppressed. The reply 
 of the governor was, that he should not put the order into 
 execution ; if required, however, to do it, he should hand 
 in his resignation. That every precaution on the part of 
 the Protestant community is adopted to enable them to re- 
 tain their little place of worship, may be inferred from the 
 circumstance of my proposing to wear my gown from the 
 consulate to the room fitted up as the chapel ; and it was 
 suggested, for the reasons already alluded to, that it might 
 be as well for the servant to take it, though a short distance, 
 to the chapel. What a pity that the Protestant frigate now 
 in the harbor of Valparaiso should not send ashore a mani- 
 festo to this Catholic community, demanding a site for the 
 building of a Protestant chapel and the free and open wor- 
 ship of the Protestant faith, or else, as the alternative, to 
 fire upon their town. And more suppose the American 
 frigate should proscribe the Catholic Frenchmen in Valpa- 
 raiso as identified with the religion of the government, 
 and without proof affirm that they sanctioned the Catholic 
 illiberality towards the Protestants, and in case of hostili- 
 ties, assure them that they should receive no quarters, but 
 meet the fate intended for the enemies of Protestant Amer- 
 ica. We run not further the parallel for the reader of the 
 action of the PArtemise at the Sandwich Islands. But we 
 do call upon the sensitive and sensible Frenchmen to dis- 
 own the conduct of Captain La Place and the French con- 
 sul at the Sandwich Islands. And we do further call upon 
 the government of the United States to look at the trans- 
 actions of the TArtemise at the Sandwich Islands, in the 
 light in which the present state of things in this Catholic 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 281 
 
 republic presents them, and to express its feelings in all 
 charity and justice for a Protestant cause, and rights of 
 American citizens abroad. 
 
 SANTIAGO. 
 
 Santiago, the capital of the republic of Chili, is some 
 ninety miles in the interior from Valparaiso. A visit to 
 the capital we were assured would more than repay for the 
 necessary exertion which it would cost us to reach it the 
 scenery on the way presenting some of the grandest moun- 
 tain views, and Santiago itself possessing the best Chilian 
 society. We therefore determined to take the earliest mo- 
 ment for making the excursion ; and on the Tuesday after 
 our arrival at Valparaiso were on our way over the Cor- 
 dilleras to the elevated city, in a something of an I-don't- 
 know-what-d'ye-call-it, mostly resembling a stout country 
 gig, accommodating two passengers in its ample propor- 
 tions of width, having one horse in its shafts, and two oth- 
 ers, one on each side with his postillion, attached by hide 
 ropes, leading from the cross-piece of the gig to the girth 
 of the rider. Thus, with three horses abreast, and twice 
 three ahead ready to be lassoed for a like convenience when 
 the others were tired, we advanced on our course from 
 Valparaiso of the sea-coast to the city of Santiago on the 
 elevated plains in the interior. 
 
 We accomplished half the journey after twelve o'clock 
 the first day, and reached Santiago in time for dinner the 
 next. We crossed two ranges of mountains, or spurs of 
 the Andes, by ascending a mountain road which would be 
 deemed almost impracticable in a land where horse-flesh 
 is of much value ; but here, where a very respectable draw- 
 horse may be purchased for a doubloon, we accomplished 
 the zig-zag pathway, if not like a streak of lightning, 
 which the track would resemble if delineated on canvass, 
 we yet made the ascent every way comfortably to ourselves, 
 save the dust that enveloped us in a cloud ; and descended 
 again to the speed of a full spring, to the great excitement 
 of weak nerves, lest the suddenness of the turns should 
 prove our destruction, by our being precipitated, volante, 
 horses, horsemen and all, down a thousand feet, before the 
 
282 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 horses could be checked, and bent to the winding path. 
 But the Spanish bit, that terrible thing for a horse's mouth, 
 enabled the postillion always to check the animals on the 
 brink of the precipice, and to guide them at his pleasure, 
 rendering our descent of the Cordilleras at full speed as 
 safe, while the harness proved true, as our passage over 
 the plains. Santiago is said to be more than a thousand 
 feet above the level of the ocean ; and beyond it rise the 
 snow-capped Andes, which, at the last pass of the Cordil- 
 leras, burst in full view upon the gaze of the traveller, be- 
 fore he descends to the extensive plain between the two, 
 on which the capital is situated. To us, who have been 
 so long cruising within the tropics, and looking at the 
 ever green hill-side, and mountains covered with fadeless 
 foliage, the view of our old acquaintance in those piles of 
 snow had nothing in it to chill, but every thing to delight. 
 It carried us back immediately, in our home associations, 
 to the winter-scenes of our own northern land, and made 
 us think how gladly we would once again welcome the 
 sight of a northeast snow-storm. 
 
 We entered the city through a double range of mud 
 houses, low and apparently crammed with many occu- 
 pants, presenting, as the suburbs of all cities do, little of 
 interest and much one would choose to avoid. Among 
 the many faces, however, which gazed at the caballeros 
 as they passed, a beautiful young woman, with her neck 
 and arms naked, seemed luxuriating in the zephyrs that 
 had just begun to move at this early hour after the greater 
 heat of the day. Our postillion guided our establishment 
 by some creditable ranges of buildings into the Plaza, 
 and in a few moments more we were at halt, in front of 
 the Fonda Inglesa. The spurs of the postillion upon the 
 pebbled pavements of the court of the hotel, as he dis- 
 mounted, sounded like the clanking of some yards of iron 
 chain-cable, while the elongated proportions of his spurs 
 resembled the arms of two capacious wind-mills. Mine 
 host of the Fonda soon accommodated us with comfort- 
 able rooms ; and an equally comfortable warm-bath, after 
 our dusty but interesting ride, made us in good humor 
 with all the world again. 
 
 Four o'clock was the time for dining, and we had hit 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 283 
 
 upon the hour quite apropos with a spare interim of forty- 
 five minutes for bathing and the toilet. 
 
 Two officers of the squadron (Dr. Hazlett and Lieut. 
 Turner) had preceded us ; and as we entered the dining 
 hall we found them with fork, con carnero balanceando, 
 which they readily dropped to give us welcome for old 
 acquaintance' sake. 
 
 The next morning we called on the American charge 
 d'affaires, Richard Pollard, Esq., to whom our considerate 
 friend, the American consul at Valparaiso, gave us let- 
 ters, and we at once found in Mr. P. a friend, ready in 
 every way in his power to contribute to the pleasure of 
 our stay at Santiago. 
 
 In the morning we promenaded, marked the localities 
 of the city, gazed, as strangers without impoliteness may 
 gaze, on the passing citizens, senores, senoras, senoritas, 
 padres in white, and padres in black. One of these pa- 
 dres, in his white robes, at a point where the inside of 
 the walk by accident had become disputed and the wall 
 side was tendered to him, declined it with so much native 
 politeness and grace, as he raised his broad-brimmed hat 
 and added, " No Sefior, pase usted," that it caused me to 
 feel kindly towards all his fraternity, during my whole 
 stay at Santiago. At sunset we walked on the Alameda, 
 a beautiful promenade, bordered on either side with a 
 double row of poplars, and extending a half mile or more 
 in length, with stone settees occupying either side of the 
 main walk nearly its whole length, as an acceptable lounge 
 to those who prefer sitting and chatting to chatting and 
 walking. Here the elite gather at the late hour of the day, 
 and the mob or populace, soldiers, priests, merchants, lov- 
 ers and the loved, and whomever it pleaseth. Children are 
 sent out with their nurses, and friend expects to meet friend. 
 It is an interesting spectacle, presented here. We have 
 not seen it in its greatest interest, as many of the first fami- 
 lies, we learn, are out of town, at their quintas, at this time 
 of the year ; others at Valparaiso and other points for sea 
 bathing. But many families of interest are still in town ; 
 here we have seen several pretty native Chilenas passing, 
 in dress for their evening walk, without bonnet, with their 
 fine suits of hair arranged with care and tastefully. 
 
 51 
 
284 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 At night, after nine o'clock, we were introduced to the 
 family of General Lastra. His lady is la Sefiora Carmen 
 Izquierdo, called, after the Spanish custom of the country, 
 la Carmen Izquierdo de Lastra. The General is absent 
 on duty. The pretty daughters whom we saw were the 
 Senoritas Cardina, Carmen, and Rosa. The eldest re- 
 minded me of a young friend I had left in the United 
 States. There was the same oval and white brow, long 
 lashes and delicately pencilled eyebrow, and deeply speak- 
 ing blue eye ; with a nose not truly Grecian, but yet more 
 expressive for its variation, and characteristic of its interest- 
 ing possessor. It seemed amusement for the party to com- 
 pare Spanish words with English ; and though I professed 
 not to speak the Spanish language, I yet could well admire 
 a beautiful Spanish woman. So I assured the young Chi- 
 lena, in great sincerity, as much perhaps on account of 
 her resemblance to my North American friend, as for the 
 personal attractions of my Chilian acquaintance herself. 
 I am sure I shall not forget the peculiar intonations with 
 which she pronounced " Si Senor," " No Senor." The 
 Spanish language on the lip of a Chilian lady is indescri- 
 bably sweet. But more of this elsewhere. La Senora 
 Carmen Izquierdo de Lastra spoke of the North Ameri- 
 cans who had visited Santiago, and thought the North 
 American women very beautiful. She remembered Mrs. 
 A. and sister. The evening was spent very agreeably, 
 though none of the family spoke English. Las Senoritas 
 Carmen and Rosa, sisters of Carolina, were sprightly, the 
 one with ringlets in the neck, the other with a golden fil- 
 let, confining the hair, smoothly and plainly parted on the 
 brow. We left at twelve o'clock, receiving the assuran- 
 ces of Mrs. Lastra, that as we had now formed the ac- 
 quaintance, her house was always open to us, whenever 
 it should be convenient for us to call. 
 
 THE CATHEDRAL AT SANTIAGO. 
 
 The next morning I rose early for matins, being desi- 
 rous of visiting the cathedral, which is deemed the finest 
 church edifice of Santiago. 
 
 Besides the twenty altars decorating the sides of this 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 285 
 
 extensive building, is the main altar located centrally, 
 nearly at the further end of the building, and on an eleva- 
 ted platform, to which you ascend in front and on two 
 sides by flights of steps. This central altar is the most 
 gorgeous one in the building. The front is of massive 
 silver; rather it is a heavy plate of chase- work with 
 
 froups of figures in relievo, being some four feet in height 
 y ten to fifteen in length. The massive candlesticks are 
 of similar materials ; and the different furniture, usual for 
 the altar, is of the same costly and rich article. Above 
 this, rises a doric canopy of eight columns, supporting a 
 dome, the pillars being an imitation of marble, and the differ- 
 ent parts of the canopy in proper proportion, exhibiting the 
 beautiful harmony, though on a small scale, of Grecian 
 architecture. Within this canopy rises the top of a cen- 
 tral pillar, with its capital, so constructed as to rise or fall 
 at pleasure ; and on this capital rests a plated globe seve- 
 ral feet in dimensions. Still behind it, on the same level, 
 is the orchestra. 
 
 As I stood in front of this altar, on a succeeding day, 
 when a polite priest had gone with me through the build- 
 ing, and showed me its inner rooms, the richly laced 
 dresses, and silver and golden utensils for the altar and 
 the procession, as well as its public halls, I could well 
 imagine the effect capable of being produced upon the 
 worshippers, whose imagination and devotion harmonized 
 with the display of the scene before them. Imagine the 
 full choir, chanting high mass a hundred priests* in their 
 rich and varied canonicals the recitative of their sono- 
 rous and full voices, when, for a moment, the music ceases, 
 and the cloud of incense rises and rolls in evolving per- 
 fume and fragrance from the silver censer again the full 
 chorus fills the cloister, rolling from arch to arch, from 
 recess to recess, from dome to pavement, when all is still- 
 ed again in the hush of death, as the priest is about to 
 elevate the host. The low tinkling of a single bell is now 
 heard throughout the vast building, and all prostrate them- 
 selves upon their knees, while the pillar that supports the 
 
 * It is said there are fifteen hundred priests in Santiago, of three 
 different orders. 
 
286 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 plated globe is seen suddenly to settle, leaving the globe 
 suspended apparently in mid-air ; but now it is seen to 
 begin to spread itself longitudinally ; and now, the lower 
 parts of the meridians curve outward and yet more ex- 
 pand, until the whole, opening, spreads itself as a spacious 
 cerulean heaven, studded with stars, on which a row of 
 lighted tapers throw their sparkling light. And there, 
 upon this column, in a golden vase, stands the eucharist. 
 All behold, bow, and worship ! 
 
 I saw not this gilded globe open even on the succeed- 
 ing Sunday, which was a feast of great interest in the 
 church ; but the priest, already alluded to, exhibited for 
 my pleasure this holy phantasmagoria, which is opened 
 only on occasions of great solemnity. It is a French 
 piece of mechanism, connected with the silver altar, all a 
 beautiful piece of workmanship, and said to be a present 
 to the cathedral. 
 
 LA SENORA CARMEN BARGAS TURTULIAS. 
 
 An engagement was made for us for each evening of 
 our stay in Santiago. At ten o'clock in the evening of 
 the same day of my morning visit to the cathedral, our 
 party entered the drawing-rooms of la Senora Carmen 
 Bargas de Alexandri, which had already been well lighted 
 up and filled with Chilians of both sexes, in anticipation 
 of the visit of the Americanos del Norte. We were in- 
 troduced to the Senora Carmen Bargas, the interesting 
 lady of the Senor Alexandri, who rose from the sofa and 
 received us with the grace of an accomplished woman. 
 Among the company there were several interesting young 
 ladies some officers of the Chilian army ; and an ease 
 characterized the association of the different members of 
 the party, which divested the company of every appear- 
 ance of embarrassing formality. One of the young ladies 
 gave us music, and sang with feeling that evinced the sus- 
 ceptibility of her nature ; and though occasionally too 
 loud in the strains of her voice for the rooms, at times 
 her intonations sunk with most agreeable effect, to the 
 pathos and thrill of the sentiment of the stanzas she sang. 
 
 The dance is a universal accomplishment in Chili, and 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 287 
 
 is a part of the education of every child, as much so as 
 the learning of the letters ; and excellence in the accom- 
 plishment receives rewards equally with superiority in 
 the departments of drawing and lessons in reading and 
 writing. " My eldest daughter," said the Sefiora, on a 
 succeeding evening, " received the prize at her school for 
 drawing, my youngest daughter, for dancing." She has 
 two daughters, who are both young. The dance this 
 evening was a matter of course, and is introduced infor- 
 mally and as pastime in the same way as music is, though, 
 in the one case, politeness would induce the visiter to lis- 
 ten in silence to the music, while he is at liberty to observe 
 the dance and continue or not his conversation, during its 
 performance. The grace with which many of the little 
 girls go through the dances peculiar to the Spanish coun- 
 try, called " bayles de galpe," is very engaging. After a 
 few quadrilles, in which I marked the eye of la Sefiora 
 Bargas, follow her elder daughter with an interest that 
 seemed to cause the mother, for a moment, to forget even 
 herself and others, though she too was in the dance ; her 
 younger and charming little girl, about eight years of age, 
 performed with a Chilian officer the native dances, very 
 much to our gratification. The guitar, accompanied by 
 the voices of lady and gentleman, afforded the music as 
 they sung the love ditty, and the dance served as the 
 graceful pantomime. The little girl was applauded for the 
 grace with which she performed her part, and I am sure 
 each one would willingly have given her a kiss additional, 
 had it been admissible, for her own loveliness' sake. 
 
 The succeeding evening la Sefiora Bargas repeated 
 the little, party or tertulia, in compliment to ourselves, 
 when the company was varied by the presence of others 
 whom we had not seen. A Miss Cortez, however, a 
 young lady of much grace in her manners and in the 
 dance, and la Senorita Mariquita, a diminutive endear^ 
 ment for Maria, and whose family name I am unfortunate 
 not to possess, were present from among our acquaintances 
 of the preceding evening the one walking like a queen, 
 the other smiling as if the soul, which lighted up the sweet 
 expression of her countenance, had never dreamed that 
 the dark wing of sorrow could once throw its shadow 
 
 51* 
 
288 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 within the circle of her consciousness. May it never 
 reach a countenance so purely expressive of a happy and 
 innocent heart. 
 
 La Senora Carmen Bargas de Alexandri is an interest- 
 ing specimen of a Spanish lady. Her husband is said to 
 be rich and in high standing with the government, to 
 which he has afforded at different times the essential, 
 which is necessary to add efficiency to the executive. 
 Youth still favors this lady with most expressive features, 
 an elasticity of step, and a personal appearance which 
 would forbid a North American from supposing her the 
 mother of the elder of the two daughters, as together the 
 child and the mother moved in the same waltz. Her step 
 pressed gently on the down of the flowered Wilton that 
 carpeted the hall, as one would think of that mental ab- 
 straction, the muse of music, treading the golden edge of 
 a sunset cloud. There was indeed music in all this grace- 
 ful woman did, and more than English music in all she 
 said, in the inimitable intonations of her voice while speak- 
 ing in that combination of all harmonies, the Spanish lan- 
 guage, when articulated from a Spanish lady's lip. 
 
 "The Americans are very amiable," she said, and looked 
 the sincerity of her sentiment, as I occupied a privileged 
 seat upon the sofa during the evening. 
 
 " Si Senora, they should be so ; and it is certain they 
 give the Chilians their best wishes for their political hap- 
 piness ; and when they form their acquaintance here, it is 
 said they are never less willing to return to their northern 
 home than from Chili." 
 
 La Senora Bargas joined not in the dance this even- 
 ing ; and I thought seemed a little curious to know the 
 reason why I should not have partaken of the amusement, 
 so much the matter of course in these and European 
 countries. 
 
 " Porque no baila usted, Senor ?" she asked in a tone 
 so soft, and a cadence sufficiently deferential to indicate 
 that she almost feared she had put a question I might 
 choose should have been left unasked. 
 
 I had presumed, and rightly, that my profession was 
 known to this interesting lady, which would have been a 
 sufficient reply to the question why I did not dance, to one 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 289 
 
 in our own country. But here, I am told, it is the usual 
 habit of the Catholic clergy to dance at the parties they 
 may attend, and to play at cards, without a supposition 
 on the part of the community that either is contrary to the 
 highest propriety of the order. 
 
 I assured the Senora that the sentiment was different 
 in our own country, and that I myself deemed the dignity 
 of the clerical profession to be such, as to render it an un- 
 desirable exhibition for a clergyman to join in the dance. 
 
 " Y-e-s," said this beautiful woman, smiling at her own 
 pronunciation of this one English word, which she seemed 
 delighted to have learned during the evening. 
 
 " Very well" I repeated, as one other English expres- 
 sion, which she had seized upon for their " muy bueno," 
 and for the meaning of which, together with "good-night," 
 I had the pleasure to learn previous to my leaving she 
 considered she was indebted to myself; while they con- 
 stituted the amount of her knowledge of the English 
 language. 
 
 " And will you be with us to-morrow evening, Senor V 
 she asked, as if she could not be denied. 
 
 " No, Senora," I replied, without immediately giving a 
 reason. 
 
 " What ! not to-morrow evening, a feast day, Senor !" 
 
 It would be Sunday, which is the greatest holiday in 
 Chili, and on which their largest parties are generally 
 given ; and the Senora had been anticipating a greater 
 display of elegance, and a larger entertainment, on Sun- 
 day evening, for the pleasure of her North American 
 friends. After the services of the morning on Sunday, the 
 day is deemed to be especially a day for visiting, prome- 
 nade, inspection of the troops ; and the evening univer- 
 sally regarded as the period of the week for their parties. 
 This is the habit of the country, and probably no suspi- 
 cion, even in the mind of the best Catholic here, ever 
 awakes, that this can be infringing upon the proper obser- 
 vance of the Christian Sabbath. And such must be the 
 sentiment of the Catholic priesthood. The astonishment 
 of la Senora Bargas, therefore, was -undisguised, at my 
 hesitation, and probably the first time in her life did this 
 question, as one of Christian propriety, present itself to her 
 
290 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 mind, if indeed it was entertained long enough to gain a 
 definite shape. 
 
 The evening had already advanced, and I had assured 
 our interesting hostess that it was probable I should not 
 be able again to call, and would therefore have to take 
 my final leave of her to-night. She was polite and kind 
 enough to dissuade, and hoped that another call, at least, 
 would be given ; with particular inquiries when again 
 should I visit Chili. 
 
 My regrets were sincere as I answered these expres- 
 sions of good will, so gently expressed. 
 
 The lady rose from the sofa, and entered an interior 
 room, and had been gone but a short time when she re- 
 appeared. Her delicate hand bore a beautiful flower 
 that richest of all nature's sweet perfumers, the white jes- 
 samine. She tastefully arranged the leaf and blossoms, 
 and extended it to me, with a silent srnile, that said more 
 than words speak of woman's compliment ; and then added 
 a sweet lemon, an equally choice gift from a lady in Chili 
 to a gentleman. She had gathered them from her own 
 shrubs. I took them as I added, that " they were greatly 
 valued on account of their own sweetness, but gained their 
 greatest interest to me from the hand that presented 
 them." 
 
 The compliment was to a Chilian lady, and perhaps 
 expected. In this instance it was most sincerely paid. 
 The lady bowed in acknowledgment. 
 
 The presentation of flowers to a gentleman by a lady 
 in Chili, is a token of marked respect. The gift of a sweet 
 lemon, an additional expression of kindness ; the presen- 
 tation of the hand, a familiar assurance of regard. I was 
 happy, while aware of the custom of the Chilian society, 
 to receive these evidences that my acquaintance had not 
 proved unacceptable. 
 
 As my purpose in relation to visiting on the succeed- 
 ing evening might not be changed, I took my final leave 
 of my brief acquaintances, at this time. And having 
 made my parting compliments to some others of the com- 
 pany, I added, as I received the extended hand of the 
 graceful and beautiful woman who had entertained us, 
 " Adios, Senora." 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 291 
 
 It was rumored during the week, that a company 
 of French singers, who had arrived at Santiago, would 
 be present at the cathedral on Sunday, and join in the or- 
 chestra during the performance of mass. It was the fes- 
 tival of " La Purificacion de Maria Sanctissima."* The 
 occasion, it was presumed, would gather a large number 
 of the people to the cathedral. 
 
 We had expected that some of the friends whom we 
 had met would be present, and were interested, in the 
 novelty of the scene presented to us, to mark them in their 
 worshipping attire. 
 
 We had not long been in the seat we occupied, while 
 the area before us had been filled, when I observed a 
 graceful figure walking up the distant space, between us 
 and the entrances of the cathedral, attended by a female 
 friend and a maid bearing behind them a beautiful rug. 
 She approached by the central division of the building. 
 Her mantilla consisted of a dark lace veil, thrown over 
 her tastefully plaited hair and clasped with a gold brooch 
 on the left side of her head. It was the air and the per- 
 son of la Senora Carmen Bargas. The maid had spread 
 her mat, and the Senora knelt. Her ungloved hands re- 
 posed across each other, upon the bosom of her dark 
 dress, as she prayed. 
 
 There are no sympathies of the human bosom more 
 sacred and deeply felt, than those which awake in con- 
 nection with religion. Its associations relate to all that is 
 most dear in the long welfare of one's self, and one's 
 friend. 
 
 Not long where she worshipped, the Senora knelt, but 
 in another moment she rose, and, attended by her friend, 
 and followed by her maid, passed along the side altars, to 
 gain a more convenient and nearer position to the main 
 altar than she possessed in front. Her eye had not seen 
 us ; and as she moved lightly by the side altar opposite to 
 us, she presented to me my last view of the graceful 
 Senora of Santiago. 
 
 * In the Chilian Almanac for 1840, the following note is attached 
 to the notice of this feast, opposite Feb. 2d : " Idulgencia plenoria 
 en Santo Domingo y la catedral." 
 
292 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 I have already alluded to the circumstance that quite a 
 number of the best families of Santiago were out of town, 
 at their country residences. It is usual for them to retire 
 from the city in the summer season, more or less, to these 
 situations, many of which are said to be very pleasantly 
 located. They are called quintas, chacras, haciendas, 
 respectively, as they may be larger or smaller farms or 
 estates. Our short stay at Santiago prevented us from 
 accepting proffered courtesies, which would have gratified 
 us much, could we have availed ourselves of them, to 
 visit some of these country residences. We however 
 visited the quinta of one of the principal families of the 
 capita), situated on the borders of the city. The family's 
 name is Alcade. The estate of this family is said to be 
 entailed, and its possessions to be very large, if not the 
 richest of any family in Chili. These entails have ceased 
 to exist in all cases in Chili, except where the elder sons 
 were born before the year when the law of primogeni- 
 ture was abrogated by the Chilian congress. The family 
 name of la Senora Alcade is Velasco. We had the plea- 
 sure of seeing this lady, and her two daughters, las Se- 
 noritas Carmen and Carolina. 
 
 We were introduced to several other families, of some of 
 which, as evidence of acceptable memories of our calls, I 
 here make mention. 
 
 La Senora Gamera was at home, who is a lady of com- 
 manding appearance. She has a son in the Chilian navy, 
 which led her to express an interest she felt towards offi- 
 cers of the same profession of other nations, and particu- 
 larly the American. Her two daughters were out, but if 
 we could in our short stay at Santiago (on account of 
 which she politely expressed regrets) find it convenient to 
 call, her daughters would give us music. As we rose to 
 take our leave, she said, with an air of great kindness, and 
 after the custom which characterizes the polite manners 
 of the Chilians, " Mi casa esta a su disposicion," equiva- 
 lent to our English, " You may be assured that you will 
 always be welcomed at my house ;" literally, " my house 
 is at your disposition." A similar assurance was given us 
 by the lady of each family, on which we had been privi- 
 leged to call during our brief stay at the capital. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 293 
 
 At Mrs. Castilla's we were favored with music from 
 the eldest of the daughters, la Senorita Carmen ; and the 
 youngest sister, Amadora, presented us a beautiful bouquet 
 from their garden. The names of the other two sisters 
 are Transita and Juana. The family has some French 
 blood in its lineage ; and the Castilian and the Gallic pre- 
 sented, in the exhibition of the four daughters, a combina- 
 tion of vivacity and sentiment that seemed the union of 
 the characteristics of the two nations. The floating eye 
 of la Senorita Carmen spoke not more sensitively than the 
 delicate flush of the cheek, which came and went like 
 mimic floods and ebbs over her fine brunette features, to 
 tell the changing passage of her thoughts and sentiments. 
 The complexions of the other sisters were lighter, one with 
 lily cheeks, the other two with cheeks of roseate. 
 
 We also had the pleasure of making our compliments 
 to the family of Mr. Ochagania, resident at the mint, who 
 is himself its superintendent. Mr. O. was once in the 
 United States as an attache to a Chilian legation, and 
 seems a very worthy gentleman. His wife and two daugh- 
 ters struck us as most worthy, and more intellectual than 
 others whom we had met. They served for us a great 
 variety of fruit; and there seemed an air of domestic 
 kindness in the family that I greatly admired. The 
 younger of the daughters, la Senorita Manuel a, spoke 
 French, and possessed some knowledge of the Italian ; 
 and the elder, la Senorita Rosa, I should deem a pattern 
 of goodness. We left this family, impressed with a high 
 consideration for their worth. 
 
 THE PRESIDENT OF CHILI. 
 
 The name of the President of Chili is Joaquin Prieto. 
 Our attentive Charge accompanied us to the President's 
 house, which fronts the public plaza. There are always 
 more or less of the guards seen at the portal that opens to 
 the court through which one passes to the President's 
 apartments. In the same pile of buildings with the Presi- 
 dent's residence, forming nearly one complete side of the 
 plaza, are the Senate Chamber, the House of Representa- 
 tives, and the public prison. We were received by the 
 
294 A VOYAGE AROUXD THE WORLD. 
 
 President's Aid, and soon the President presented himself. 
 His manners are courteous and dignified, though easy ; and 
 his personal appearance the finest of any Chilian gentle- 
 man I have met. He has served nearly two terms ; and 
 according to the constitution of Chili is ineligible to another 
 election. His second term expires in a few months. Ru- 
 mor says the office of President here is regarded too 
 much as a post for making money, rather than a position 
 that excites in its occupant a laudable ambition to promote 
 his country's best welfare. The government of Chili, 
 however, it is supposed, has become more settled and per- 
 manent in stability, both as to its measures and political 
 tranquillity, under the administration of the present occu- 
 pant of the presidency, than has characterized its former 
 existence. The party now in power and the priesthood 
 are united ; and while they remain so, public tranquillity 
 is to be expected. The interests of the church are so 
 great, that any measures against its privileges will con- 
 tinue to agitate the internal peace of the state. The Chi- 
 lians are high in the estimate of their own prowess at the 
 present moment, in consequence of their late successes in 
 their expedition against Lima. 
 
 The time for our leaving the agreeable capital of Chili 
 had come. And though we had spent but a few days at 
 Santiago, I had occasion to make many notes of interest, 
 to myself at least, in connection with my visit. But the 
 necessity of closing this volume with the addition of but a 
 few more pages, will prevent me from extending my no- 
 tices of the capital of Chili. The same will be true of 
 Valparaiso and Lima, to which a volume should be devoted 
 to do justice to the interest which these places, at a time 
 beyond the moment of which I am now writing, secured 
 in my own feelings, and gratified curiosity, and experience. 
 I therefore of necessity shall delay, for another place, more 
 extended notices of these cities, and incidents connected 
 with them, on the west coast of South America. I pro- 
 ceed, however, to occupy the brief space yet remaining 
 to me, in completing the pages of these two volumes. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 295 
 
 RETURN FROM SANTIAGO. 
 
 Having taken leave of our attentive Charge d'Affaires, 
 to whom we were greatly indebted for much of the plea- 
 sure which attended our visit to the capital of Chili, we 
 left Santiago on Monday evening, the third of February, 
 and were in fair prospect of making half way of our dis- 
 tance in very good humor with ourselves, when, by some 
 spite of our postillion, and the injured sensibilities of the 
 spirited steed within the shafts, said steed took it into his 
 head that, with the assistance of his heels, he would clear 
 himself from all further connection with the establishment. 
 He therefore commenced his alto relievo gesticulation of 
 the hind feet, to the great endangerment of the heads of 
 the passengers, and to the demolishment of the washboard 
 of the gig, and the fracturing of the first bow of the calash- 
 top, an inch and a half square, as if it had been a stick of 
 bamboo. I took counsel with myself to throw myself out 
 of the gig at one of the intervals when his feet and the 
 calash-top were furthest apart from each other ; and with 
 concern cast back a look the moment I had landed upon 
 the ground, for my friend, the professor of mathematics. 
 To my considerable alarm I found, that instead of throw- 
 ing himself out the opposite side from myself, he had pre- 
 ferred my own, and by some means of delay was tripped 
 as the horses began to wheel in the road ; and though the 
 professor performed several evolutions by rolling in the 
 dust, the tramp of the horses' feet neared him faster than 
 the circles and quadrants he performed distanced their 
 proximity. Fortunately the shaft-horse, at this instant, 
 cleared himself from all encumbrances of the establish- 
 ment, and the two riders snapped the hide-cords which 
 attached their horses to the same vehicle. The frightened 
 animal of the shafts was in full speed on the road, while 
 his harness served to goad him on. One of the riders in 
 an instant put off in chase, as he swung the lasso around 
 his head. In another moment the curls of the swinging 
 coil elongated themselves as the rope straightened, and 
 the noose, true to the cast, dropped over the neck of the 
 runaway. The animal was soon brought to a halt, and 
 
 52 
 
296 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 returned to the vehicle. The irritated Chilian belabored 
 the trembling beast until I bespoke mercy for him, when 
 he was again affixed to the shafts ; and the two riders, 
 with horses on either side, advanced again on our way. 
 We soon reached the foot of the first mountain, and were 
 at the top of the pass of the Cuesta del Prado a short time 
 after, from which we descended with a fearful rapidity, 
 as the night had already come upon us, while the bright 
 stars, in the absence of the moon, looked still benignantly 
 from their deep blue above us. 
 
 We reached Valparaiso the succeeding evening, in time 
 for tea. 
 
 The English Admiral, on the Pacific station, is Charles 
 Ross, Rear- Admiral of the white. Mrs. Ross and her two 
 sisters, the Misses Ball, are the ladies of his family. They 
 have a house on -the Almendral, surrounded by a consid- 
 erable collection of flowers and shrubs. The residence is 
 fitted up under the directions and taste of Mrs. Ross, and 
 called " The Admiralty House." Here Mrs. Ross gives 
 her soirees, once a fortnight. The day succeeding my 
 return from Santiago I dined at the Admiral's. Commo- 
 dore Read was too unwell, with a cold taken in his ride 
 from Santiago, to comply with the invitation of the Ad- 
 miral. The officers of the Admiral's fleet, at dinner, were 
 Captain Mainwaring of the Electra, the Admiral's Secre- 
 tary, and Captain Shepherd, of the Sparrowhawk, whom 
 I had previously had the pleasure of meeting at Rio de 
 Janeiro. 
 
 Miss Price was one of the pretty ladies at the table, 
 possessed of a face that interests for its expression, and 
 one that leaves its memory traced in the mind for future 
 days, without an effort on the part of another to place it 
 there, as a treasure among the interesting visions one 
 would wish to retain. 
 
 The Admiral's lady is as worthy of admiration for her 
 fine personal appearance as the Admiral himself evidently 
 believes her to be. Mrs. Ross was dressed in a rich black 
 velvet, with its bosom cut low and edged with wide lace. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 297 
 
 She reminded me of our fair countrywoman, who has 
 awakened interest at home and admiration abroad, and 
 formed a beautiful subject for the imitative and successful 
 chisel of Greenough, in Florence. 
 
 Mrs. R. gave us music, and executes with taste, and 
 sung with a voice of much sweetness. "But I would 
 much rather paint well," she said, " than excel in music, 
 for I could give a friend a drawing that would long serve 
 to recall me in memory, when the song that is sung is soon 
 forgotten." This was a very pretty but unintentional in- 
 troduction to the display of a valued scrap-book, which 
 Mrs. R. opened for me, containing several pretty sketches. 
 But I have forgotten them all, while I yet retain the me- 
 mory of the air she gave us : 
 
 " O sing not to me thy song, sweet bird." 
 
 The two sisters performed a duet ; and, at my request, 
 added, , 
 
 " The minute-gun at sea." 
 
 Mrs. C. and two daughters, residents of Santiago, joined 
 the party in the evening. I talked of Wales with Miss B., 
 a country of no little interest, for its picturesque in scene- 
 ry and other associations. Miss B. admired the land of 
 her young associations ; and it is worthy of all admira- 
 tion for the truth of its people, when it gives birth to 
 such a character as Miss Clarendon, of romantic associa- 
 tion. 
 
 The stars were bright this evening, as I attended Miss 
 Price from the Admiral's, while the party, together, were 
 moving along the Almendral. 
 
 " I often read the beautiful skies with my father at 
 night," she said, " when we were coming from England 
 here." She had been to England for her education. Her 
 mother was a Spanish woman of Santiago. " And the 
 Southern Cross, do you say that is it?" she asked, as it 
 was pointed out to her. "I wish I could have had confi- 
 dence enough to insist that it was there, when a gentleman 
 assured me a few days since, that it was not seen in this 
 latitude. But I could not pretend to be so much of the 
 astronomer as himself, though I thought I knew it ;" and 
 
298 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the pretty and modest young lady at the same moment 
 dropped her diamond ear-rings and bracelet, which glit- 
 tered like the night brilliants above us, into my hand, 
 while she adjusted the shawl over her dress of short sleeves, 
 heavily laced. We were soon at the residence which 
 they occupy during the warm season, when many of the 
 Santiago families visit the coast for sea beathing, of which 
 they are extravagantly fond. 
 
 The captains, whom I now accompanied to the dock, 
 politely offered me a passage to the frigate in their boat, 
 which was waiting for them, but I excused myself for a 
 room on shore, already engaged for the night. 
 
 TAKING LEAVE OF VALPARAISO. 
 
 The following day it was expected we would sail. I 
 therefore made my last calls upon the American families to 
 whose courtesies I had been indebted during my occasional 
 visits to the shore at Valparaiso. These families were 
 ever free in the proffers of their politeness, in my own case 
 at least, beyond the power of my accepting it. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Chauncey are about to return to America, 
 with the reputation of having secured a handsome amount 
 of the sine qui non for living comfortably and genteelly 
 after the estimates of modern times, which have strangely 
 varied in many particulars from the days of our plainer 
 forefathers. 
 
 He who rightly reads the human mind, will at once 
 detect that gentleness of character which constitutes, in 
 woman, one of the greatest charms of female excellence. 
 It matters not where it is found, among the highest and 
 most refined, or the humbler and impoverished. We give 
 it our deference in respect, and affection in association. 
 So I thought as I said adieu to Mrs. W., a lady of piety 
 and worth. 
 
 The family of our consul was the last I called upon, to 
 say adieu. We had learned to esteem them, and felt 
 regret that we should so soon be deprived of their amiable 
 society. I had on a previous occasion casually remarked, 
 that I had omitted to secure some curiosities which I in- 
 tended to purchase at the nunneries in Santiago. As I 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 299 
 
 was now about to leave the consul's, Mrs. H. called my 
 attention to the pier-table, on the marble slab of which were 
 a collection of the particular articles I desired. " Take these, 
 Mr. T. ; you hurried away so soon the other day that I 
 had no opportunity to offer them to you." I saw my di- 
 lemma, in which the unintentional notice of my omission 
 while at Santiago and Mrs. H.'s generous benevolence 
 placed me, for I have always felt a delicacy in accepting 
 what I know to have been secured by others as curiosities 
 for themselves. I therefore availed myself of two or three 
 of these handiwork oddities of the Santiago nuns. " Take 
 them all, Mr. T., we can get any quantity of them we 
 wish." The command was repeated, and could not be 
 avoided when coming with so much sincerity and generous 
 good feeling, which had often displayed itself from the 
 same amiable source, connected with that lady-like deli- 
 cacy of manner which so certainly secures one's deferen- 
 tial consideration and kindness of feeling in the social in- 
 tercourse. Mrs. Hobson has a tasteful collection of a 
 variety of curiosities, arranged, as they should be, in small 
 private collections, for the purpose of giving pleasure to 
 the curious rather than for the instruction of the scientific, 
 shells, and minerals, and vases, et csetera. While I was 
 yet lingering over the pier-table, delaying the final adieu 
 to this amiable family, the sun had thrown the broad sha- 
 dow of the hill-side far out on the bay, as his rays still fell, 
 in their slant, on the inner side of the frigate. The ship- 
 ping, with their hulls, like the houses of the city, lay in the 
 shadows of the Altos de Valparaiso, while the tops of their 
 highest spars were yet gilded by his beams. The pennant 
 of the frigate still waved ; showing that the sundown hour 
 had not yet come, though the sun himself was lost to the 
 citizens below. The frigate's boat was seen pulling for 
 the shore, and in another moment, was at the pier. I said 
 adieu to my friends, and wound down the hill on which 
 the American residences are seen overlooking the city and 
 the harbor, and in a moment more was in the boat. " Shove 
 off," was the order of the officer. " Let fall together," 
 was his second command. The oars fell into their places, 
 and the dip of their blades soon sent the cutter clear from 
 the dock. As I cast back a look to the city, which now 
 
 52* 
 
300 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 I cared not again to see, my eye rested on the most pro- 
 minent and the most pleasant site of the American dwell- 
 ings> Our friends were on their charming promenade, 
 full in view, and in front of their elevated houses. Their 
 eyes were a moment upon us ; and we fancied they gave 
 us a second and final farewell, as the boat to the regular 
 dip of the oars now rapidly glided over the waters of the 
 bay to the frigate, lying at her moorings without the ship- 
 ping of the inner harbor. 
 
 SECTION XL 
 
 CALLAO AND LIMA. 
 
 The Carnival. Ride to Lima. The city deserted. Ride to Chorillos. 
 Limanian lady on horseback. A man beguiled of his rest. A wet mid- 
 shipman. Ash- Wednesday in Lima. Saya y manto. The beautiful Se- 
 norita receiving the dark cross on her brow. Descriptions of Lima neces- 
 sarily brief. Cathedral vault containing Pizarro's remains. Evening walk. 
 Host for the Infirmo. The cry of the night-watch. 
 
 A PASSAGE of eleven days found us in the harbor of Cal- 
 lao, where we anchored at midnight on February 27th, 
 1840. The succeeding morning I took a ramble on shore 
 to inspect the town of Callao, but found nothing there of 
 interest save the castles. Of these, and their thrilling as- 
 sociations, I defer my descriptions. 
 
 The carnival, the bacchanalia before Lent in Catholic 
 countries, occurs here during the next three days of Sun- 
 day, Monday, and Tuesday ; and all advised that our in- 
 tended excursion to Lima should be postponed beyond the 
 latter day, as we might be subjected to the inconvenience 
 of frequently changing our dresses, as all persons, stran- 
 gers, priest, president, and every passer-by, are deemed 
 just objects for a shower-bath, whenever a boy from the 
 street or mischief-making girl from the balcony, or playful 
 friends or ill-disposed enemies choose to throw water upon 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 301 
 
 the wanderer in the street. But we chose to witness the 
 manners of the people, even at the expense of a few wet 
 jackets. 
 
 RIDE PROM CALLAO TO LIMA. 
 
 On Monday morning, therefore, in company with Com- 
 modore Read, Captain Bigelow of the Shark, and Prof. 
 Belcher, I started for Lima. Once it was deemed pru- 
 dent for the passenger between Callao and Lima, though 
 a distance of only seven or nine miles, to bear his arms 
 for self-defence, if he would save his purse-strings from 
 being drawn by the Salteadores, a certain class of neces- 
 sitous gentlemen, dwellers on the road, who deem them- 
 selves at liberty to take from the peaceable traveller not 
 only his money but his clothes also, if he should happen 
 to have the presumption to make any complaint of the 
 manner of their salutation. 
 
 The topics of olden thieves, robbers, and murderers, 
 and the olden carnival, afforded subjects of conversation 
 as our coach rolled on, and each one adjusted himself in 
 preparation for the sudden appearance in the atmosphere 
 of any gathering water-spouts ; while it was conceded, if 
 an unexpected attack from the Salteadores should make 
 opposition to our advance, our protection would devolve 
 upon the Commodore, who alone wore a weapon of de- 
 fence. We wheeled up to the half-way house, where, 
 formerly, in consequence of these lawless brigands frequent- 
 ing the road, a guard was stationed by the government. 
 A church is its only neighboring building. The Lima 
 coach having anticipated us a few moments, was already 
 at the stand, filled with passengers on their holiday ride 
 to Callao. Another three quarters of an hour's ride 
 brought us to the entrance of the city, the road leading to 
 the gate being lined without the walls with willows, on 
 either side, presenting a welcome and beautiful relief to 
 the eye in contrast to the parched and dusty road, which 
 we had passed over from Callao. From this avenue, 
 called the Alameda de la Portada, we passed beneath a 
 heavy arched gateway into the storied city of Pizarro, 
 "the city of kings," with its "thousand towers and hundred 
 
302 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 gates." And this is Lima, "the city of the free," the field 
 of Pizarro's dreams and proud success, and the spot of his 
 assassination and burial. Story, as delineated on the his- 
 toric page, has thrown much that is romantic, tragic, and 
 poetic about this olden city of the new world. Its super- 
 stitions and manners have continued to perpetuate the 
 mystic interest of other days, while the grandeur of its 
 silver and golden age has passed away, and the powers 
 of a once unquestioned priesthood waned, in the levelling 
 process of revolutions and the introduction of the privilege 
 of freer thought. 
 
 We found the city like a deserted hall, where the 
 throng have been threading their way and the buzz of 
 many voices heard, but when the muffled step and the 
 mingled accents of the crowd have passed away. All 
 the shops were closed scarcely an individual was seen 
 moving through the streets the "saya y manto" was 
 nowhere moving abroad the cowled priest retained his 
 cell the curvetting steed gnawed in his stall, and his rich 
 laced rider lounged in the sala upon settee, enjoying his 
 cigarros, while the Sefiorita forgot herself in the dreams 
 of the siesta or rambled in the private grounds of the gar- 
 den all alike unwilling to venture beyond the puertecalle 
 of their houses ; while the boys, now sole heirs and exclu- 
 sive possessors of the streets of the city, were gathered 
 here and there in groups, and carrying on a warfare of 
 water. Occasionally a group of figures might be seen in 
 some balcony raising a shout of glee, as they poured the 
 shower of water upon the head of some solitary and un- 
 wary wight who had ventured beyond discretion in his 
 rambles on this, one of the days of the carnival. 
 
 Our rooms having been secured, I ventured forth on a 
 stroll through the city, notwithstanding the caution re- 
 ceived, and the assurance that neither stranger nor inti- 
 mate could rely on any favors or deference. But I wan- 
 dered unmolested, though I passed by many a suspicious 
 balcony, window, and portal, and saw others, the occa- 
 sionally few that were moving, deriving all the benefits 
 of the season. 
 
 I reached the Plaza de la Independencia, or principal 
 public square of Lima. On the north side is the palace of 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 303 
 
 Pizarro ; on the east, the spacious cathedral ; on the south 
 and west, two portales, or covered walks, their arches 
 and colonnades supporting irregular balconies, where are 
 several public offices, the house of the municipality, the 
 prison, and some private residences ; while the centre of 
 the plaza contains a brazen fountain, forty feet high, 
 crowned with the goddess of fame, with the trumpet in 
 her hand, and the tube to her lip for the blast. The 
 streams of water are pouring from many mouths of masked 
 faces, falling from two capacious and elevated basins into 
 the general reservoir, seventy-two feet in circumference, 
 whose upper rim is ornamented with lions and lizards. 
 The whole is a cast of bell-metal ; and, from an inscrip- 
 tion upon the pedestal, was placed in its present position 
 one hundred and ninety years ago. As I entered the plaza 
 there were no sounds of the busy multitude, here usually 
 heard in mingled hum the shops were closed the 
 traders' stands removed, and only one group of moving 
 beings before the portal of the palace seen, while the drip- 
 ping of the fountain, and the purling of its many running 
 spouts, gave forth their refreshing sound as they mingled 
 together in the common reservoir beneath. It was like 
 the still reign of a Sabbath at home not like a Sabbath 
 abroad. At this moment, however, a blast from French 
 horns at a point diagonally from the corner of the plaza 
 where I had entered and still stood, came across the square, 
 and the bugle and clarion joined in the strain, as the blast 
 swelled louder and louder, when, immediately opposite 
 me a coach and four, preceded by a herald and two lan- 
 cers, and followed by a dozen other mounted lancers, 
 entered the plaza. The heel of the lance of the out-riders 
 rested on the right stirrup of each, as the right hand 
 clasped the perpendicular shaft, to which was attached a 
 red streamer, that quivered in the breeze as they passed 
 on. It was the coach of the President of Peru, the Ga- 
 mara, whose position and story I envy not. Like many 
 of the citizens who had preceded him to the country, the 
 President was on his way to Miraflores, a neighboring 
 village, to escape the town during the remaining days of 
 the carnival. Again the strain from the bugles came over 
 the plaza on the still and hushed air, as the noble steeds 
 
304 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 passed on in their measured trot, when all was still again, 
 and the buglers dispersed to the palace. 
 
 DRIVE TO CHORILLOS. 
 
 All Lima, or the genteeler part of it, having vacated 
 the capital, (so we were told,) and a great proportion of 
 the Lima society being at Chorillos, a bathing-place seven 
 or eight miles from the city, we were willing to take a 
 ride to this watering-place, to spend the succeeding and 
 last day of the carnival. It was supposed a favorable 
 opportunity for seeing the Limanians, in the short time 
 we should have to spend, and we started sufficiently early 
 to take breakfast at the hotel in Chorillos, which is kept 
 by the same individual at whose house we were stopping 
 in Lima. 
 
 The morning was delightful. We had passed by some 
 rich meadows in the neighborhood of Lima, reminding 
 us, in the similarity of their grasses, of our own meadows 
 at home ; and a short distance without the gate of the 
 city, a genteel calesa, W 7 hich had preceded us with a young 
 Limanian lady returning from mass, turned into the pre- 
 mises of one of the largest but now litigated estates of 
 Peru. The birds, along the early part of our drive, were 
 up and regaling the early passenger on the road with their 
 songs, more than ever sweet to one who has so long been 
 listening only to the sea-moan and the storm-dirge, as it 
 wails through the cordage of the ship. We soon found 
 ourselves not the only persons abroad, while we were 
 pleased with ourselves for having taken the early ride, 
 and came up with a party on horseback, on the same 
 course with ourselves. The principal object of interest in 
 the group was a young Limanian lady, mounted upon a 
 spirited and well-groomed steed, which she managed with 
 perfect ease and confidence, while her maid was riding 
 near her, and her father and others of the company some 
 rods in the rear. Her light straw hat, with its brim free, 
 sat lightly upon her head, as her hair, in a long and auburn 
 braid, fell over her white poncho, which hung like a shawl 
 over her shoulders low to the saddle, and prettily edged 
 with a border of worked flowers. She sat easily in her 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 305 
 
 pillioned saddle, as the toe of her satin slipper, which 
 graced a small foot, occupied a morocco stirrup, display- 
 ing an ankle encased in a silk stocking and half concealed 
 in the ruffles of a pantalette. The bridle of her horse was 
 heavily silvered, with a crescent ornament of the same 
 material floating freely beneath the throat of her noble 
 animal. A light and ornamented collar and breeching, a 
 la Espanola, was attached to the saddle, preserving it 
 steadily in front and behind ; and the reins of the bridle 
 terminated in a braided lash that swept to the ground. 
 She rode sideways, unlike most of the Limanian belles, 
 who, like their brunette sisters of the Sandwich Islands, 
 mostly ride a calif our chons. We paused a moment, after 
 having slowly passed this party in our calesa, and had 
 come up to a little chacra on the road-side. The young 
 lady curvetted by us, but, as the voice of her father 
 reached her, she changed the direction of her horse, as 
 he caracalled, and with the rest of the party, gracefully 
 came up to the stand. The father dismounted and passed 
 refreshments to the party. 
 
 " Strangers in Lima, Senores, we presume," said the 
 easy Spaniard, addressing ourselves. " Will you join us 
 in Italia de Pisco," filling the small glasses, from which the 
 mother and daughter had but slightly moistened their lips, 
 and which, in comparison with our larger wine glasses, in 
 size, were like the tea-cups of our grandmothers, in con- 
 trast with our modern and larger proportioned dishes. 
 
 " Four days in Peru, Senor," we replied. " We came 
 to see Lima yesterday, but found the city deserted. Learn- 
 ing that the better part of Lima had escaped to Chorillos, 
 we are pursuing them to the baths." 
 
 Our postillion was again in his place, and the party bent 
 with a smile of kindness, as we wheeled into the road 
 again. An unexpected incident, hereafter to be narrated, 
 made us acquainted with these interesting strangers. 
 
 We reached Chorillos (having passed Miraflores a half 
 hour before on the right) just in time for breakfast, which 
 was served at half-past nine o'clock. The rooms were all 
 full, but the landlady showed us to her own apartment, 
 just vacated by the ladies for breakfast ; and we found a 
 laving in cold water to be acceptable after our morning 
 
306 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ride. A vacant seat was reserved for us at the table, at 
 which we placed ourselves in a few moments more. Some 
 fifty persons were at the table as we took our seats. 
 
 Most of the families who resort here for bathing take 
 up their residences among the families of the town or hire 
 vacant houses for the season. The bank edging the 
 plain on which the town, a miserable collection of low 
 houses, is built, is high above the sea, which here makes 
 a beautiful indentation constituting the bay. The sea rolls 
 in with heavy breakers, and the surf tumbles in grandeur 
 and beauty. The surface of the water seen from the high 
 bluff is clear; and during the morning we saw a number 
 of porpoises sporting beneath the extended sweep of the 
 curve lines of the inrolling swell, which here beautifully 
 bends in conformity to the curvature of the shore of the 
 bay in its roll almost the whole width of the spacious 
 basin. These fish were seen several feet beneath the 
 surface, as distinctly as if they had been on the shore, as 
 the rays of the sun sent down their perpendicular beams ; 
 and they glided along now in parallel lines, occasionally 
 changing their horizontal and elevating their noses above 
 the water, and again gliding on together, curvetting be- 
 neath the bosom of the bay in imitation of the magnificent 
 surges that rolled in above them. A hundred eyes from 
 the porticoes overlooking the bay were on those graceful 
 sporters in the deep, as they glided at their pleasure across 
 and around the bay. 
 
 The ladies mostly ride down the steep bluff to the 
 beach, where the bathing houses are located, and again 
 ascend the bluff' on horseback. The bathing establishment 
 consists of slight houses formed of cane and mats, where 
 the women and men adjust their bathing dresses and re- 
 attire themselves after sporting in the surf. Both sexes 
 bathe promiscuously together, and some of the Limanian 
 women venture far out beyond the breakers, and are cra- 
 dled in handsome style and on a grand scale upon the un- 
 combing surge of the far-out rollers. To reach this posi- 
 tion, however, it is essential to dive beneath the heavy 
 crests of the same surges, which break in foam and cas- 
 cades and overwhelming and whirling currents, as they 
 reach nearer in to the beach. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 307 
 
 We met here several Americans from Lima. The Com- 
 modore, with Mr. Provost, our consul, arrived soon after 
 breakfast, also to spend the day. A gentlemanly young 
 Englishman, Mr. R., offered us his attentions, with whom 
 we afterwards dined in Lima. 
 
 After the morning bath we dressed for dinner ; and I was 
 much amused by the animated manner of a Limanian near 
 me at the table, who was narrating to the landlady his luck- 
 less misfortunes of the preceding night, and the villanous 
 manner in which he had been deprived of his cot, which 
 with several others occupied the same room. The gentle- 
 man narrating had retired rather late, having calculated 
 on the luxury of a bed in this crowded place ; but on his 
 reaching the chamber he perceived, to his surprise and dis- 
 pleasure, that his cot was already occupied. Not knowing 
 but there had been some mistake, and that the interloper 
 was blameless, " I found the maid," said the gentleman, 
 " and dqsired that she should wake her mistress, and ascer- 
 tain if she had allowed any one to occupy my cot. But 
 she was unwilling to wake you (the narrator was address- 
 ing the landlady) as you were quite unwell ; I therefore, 
 as the only resort, took a blanket upon the floor, and made 
 the best of the remaining part of the night." 
 
 In the morning, he continued, he awoke and found the 
 stranger still soundly taking his rest. This he could not 
 longer endure, in view of his own comfortless spent night. 
 
 " Up, Senor !" cried the Limanian ; " up ! the sun is on 
 the bay, and men who have deprived others of their rest 
 should be moving." 
 
 This however did not move the sleeper, but additionally 
 irritated the gentleman who had been robbed of his cot. 
 He therefore gathered all the shoes adrift in the room, and 
 began by tossing one into the neighborhood of the sleeper's 
 night-cap. The irritated Limanian had exhausted his 
 quantity of shoes, and began to levy on the straggling canes 
 in the room. 
 
 " I say, sleeper, arise !" cried the Limanian again, as he 
 pitched his bundle of half a dozen sticks upon the cot, " an 
 earthquake could have but little effect on such ears." 
 
 But, to the utter astonishment of the provoked Limanian, 
 the dozer moved not; and he therefore walked up to the cot 
 
 53 
 
308 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to rouse the gentleman by rocking him with his own hands, 
 from his dreams ; when he found, instead of the presump- 
 tuous stranger whom he supposed had occupied his bed, 
 that some one had so arranged the pillows as to exhibit 
 the appearance of a person in bed. 
 
 The clever landlady, who speaks several languages with 
 fluency, enjoyed, with others, the joke, as she laughed quite 
 interestingly in Spanish, French, and English. 
 
 Many of the Lima ladies I saw at Chorillos were inter- 
 esting in their personal appearance, but few strikingly pret- 
 ty. We were pressed to attend a party where all the belles 
 were to be assembled, in the evening, but our arrange- 
 ments had been made to return to Lima, and, with the 
 Commodore, we left Chorillos at sunset. 
 
 We found at our hotel, on our reaching the city, that 
 several of the officers of the squadron had arrived in Lima 
 from Callao, and some of them had ventured to ride out 
 on horseback. To the considerable inconvenience of one 
 of them, his horse, after leaving town, was found too soon 
 to have spent his vitality of muscle and sensitiveness of 
 nerve, and, like a ship in distress, he was obliged to put 
 back. In doing this he re-entered the city, and his sorry 
 steed took his own time, as he measured his slow steps 
 through the streets. Whip nor spur could get him out of 
 a walk. What object so suitable for the water-spouts from 
 the windows and balconies? It was not undiscovered, and 
 the amiable young gentleman (he must have been amiable, 
 even on the last day of the carnival, to have endured it) 
 arrived at the Fonda as wet as he could have been, had 
 he been two hours overboard at sea. 
 
 ASH-WEDNESDAY IN LIMA. 
 
 The early bells, on the morning succeeding our visit 
 to Chorillos, were summoning, as usual, the Limanians to 
 confession at matins. But this was the morning of ASH- 
 WEDNESDAY, and the first day of Lent a season when 
 there is more than usual attention to church duties, and fre- 
 quenting of the confessional. I had risen early to take a 
 walk to several of the churches, as they are kept open two 
 or three hours in the morning the great bell of the cathe- 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 309 
 
 dral, by its peal above all others, generally announcing the 
 elevation of the Host in that church about nine o'clock in 
 the morning. Already the city had put on a new appear- 
 ance. The streets were alive with hundreds passing to and 
 fro the shops were open the plaza exhibiting a scene 
 of preparation for the sales and the business of the day 
 
 & SSC 
 LIMANIAN LADY IN HER SAYA Y MANTO. 
 
 and what more than aught else attracts the stranger's eye, 
 the saya y manto was abroad, worn by the female wor- 
 shippers, now hurrying to their early prayers. No ^le 
 
310 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 longer cast an anxious glance at the balcony, or watched 
 the suspicious group of sporting boys, or thought of the 
 mischief-making multitude of the three days of the carnival. 
 It was passed ; and the season had come when it was ex- 
 pected by the church that all its members, small and great, 
 would address themselves to the practice of the graver 
 duties of the season of Lent. 
 
 As I stood a few moments in the puertecalle, or large 
 doorway, that leads from the outer court of the hotel to 
 the street, to mark the passers-by, several females moved 
 along the walk in their sayas y mantos, presenting masked 
 figures, whom no one could know while they kept the 
 manto over their faces, but whose graceful step all would 
 admire. The saya y manto is the dress in which all fe- 
 males frequent the churches and promenade the streets. 
 It is a dress peculiar to the city of Lima, being found, it 
 is said, in no other part of the world. The present fash- 
 ion in the cut of the saya differs from the older one, giv- 
 ing greater freedom to the step of the wearer, and not ma- 
 terially differing in appearance to many quilted silk win- 
 ter-dresses worn as an over-garment by our own country- 
 women. The olden saya, however, sat tighter to the per- 
 son, developing more strikingly the contour of the figure.* 
 Many of these are still worn, and the style of each is faith- 
 fully exhibited in the two accompanying prints. But it is 
 the manto which effectually serves as the mask, and en- 
 tirely disguises the wearer if she chooses, though the least 
 imaginable slip of the finger will most accidentally discov- 
 er the features of the face to a friend. The saya is no 
 more nor less than a quilted silk petticoat, of any color, 
 which ties about the waist. The manto is simply a plain 
 piece of black silk, hemmed at either end. A cord pass- 
 ing through the hem of one end of it, and around the 
 waist, confines it in a gather at the back, over which the 
 saya is sufficiently elevated to conceal the cord. The 
 loose end of the black silk veil, or manto, is then thrown 
 up the back, over the head, and the two corners so gath- 
 ered by the hand over the face as to conceal all the fea- 
 tures but one eye, which contemplates at discretion the 
 
 * See the second cut, further on. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 311 
 
 objects that may secure its interest, as the lady-masker 
 passes on to the cathedral, or the shop, or promenades, on 
 her errand of pleasure, or business, or devotion. 
 
 I first entered the cathedral, the finest building of the 
 city, but the naves of this spacious church were still va- 
 cant as the eye extended through the long aisles, while in 
 a lesser building immediately at its side, and constituting 
 a part of the same pile, numbers were kneeling. I paused 
 but a moment, as I saw several of the worshippers advance 
 to the altar and receive upon their brow the mark of a cross, 
 drawn by the finger of the priest, dipped in a jet-black fluid, 
 as the emblem characteristic of the day ; and which I af- 
 terwards saw on the foreheads of many who suffered their 
 mantos to lie back from the brow as they were returning 
 from their prayers, while I still pursued my way to seve- 
 ral others of the church edifices. I was now at a third 
 church ; and though I had not then familiarized myself 
 with the names of the buildings, I believe this was the 
 Compania de Jesus. There was more shadow than usual in 
 the mellowed light that held the side altars of this church in 
 solemn and poetic effect ; and, unlike the others, the priest 
 stood near the door beside a table, on which rested the sil- 
 ver basin containing the dark fluid resembling a mixture 
 of lampblack. Here the priest crossed the worshippers, 
 as they knelt in the light of the door before him. I had 
 entered, passing the priest, and a little surprised myself to 
 step so suddenly upon the different arrangement met with 
 at this church, and as I was advancing to ascend the side 
 aisle, I surprised a beautiful young woman turning the cor- 
 ner of the buttress of a heavy arch with her manto thrown 
 from her face, with the light from the door falling full upon 
 her features, as she seemed on her way to depart. There 
 were a few persons kneeling in the neighborhood, at the 
 first altar near the door. I paused as she passed, and stood 
 uncovered, with an irresistible curiosity to see if this beau- 
 tiful Sefiorita would kneel at the table and receive the cross 
 upon her pure brow. She evidently herself was a little 
 surprised at first by recognising a stranger, and next at 
 the memory that her manto discovered fully her features ; 
 and the first impulse seemed to be to gather her manto 
 over her face, but she as suddenly smiled and recovered 
 
 53* 
 
312 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 herself as she stepped with a foot of air, inimitably light, 
 to the confessional at which an elderly woman was sit- 
 ting, and whispered a few words, with her manto still dis- 
 covering a face more beautiful than I had before met, either 
 in Lima or at Chorillos. Her hair was a blond, her eye a 
 
 dark blue, and her complexion that of a lily. She knew 
 that she was beautiful. No woman with such a face and 
 with such a smile could be ignorant of such possessions. 
 She paused but a moment already a piece of mingled 
 surprise and a slight affectation when she stepped from 
 the confessional towards the door. That step was purely 
 Limanian, though more airy than others, as her form was 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 313 
 
 more sylph-like than most of her sisters. She paused 
 turned with the precision and the ease of a double step in 
 the waltz, and knelt with her face towards myself. A 
 sunbeam fell upon her brow so purely white her eyes 
 were turned gently upward the smile of complacency 
 had not yet left her slightly curled lip and the man of 
 God put the emblem of the cross upon a brow, than which 
 nothing could be more fair, blending in with features, than 
 which nothing could be more innocent and sweet, if aught 
 could ever be more beautifully classic than was there. 
 She rose, gathered the manto with a beautiful hand over 
 her face, turned towards the door, and was gone. 
 
 I stepped forward a few paces and leaned, in the 
 shadow, against the heavy base of the arch, and for a 
 moment listened to another priest who was repeating the 
 mass at the only lighted altar, by the door. Another 
 moment, and I left this for another church in the neigh- 
 borhood, where I found a large number collected before 
 different side altars with officiating priests at each, while 
 a body of clerigos and canonigos were celebrating high 
 mass in the central nave of the church. There were ap- 
 parently forty or fifty of these tonsured personages whose 
 full voices filled the surrounding arches of the spacious 
 house. But every now and then the full-toned organ 
 would join in the chant, or swell alone in strains of wor- 
 ship. I moved up the central nave near the balustrade 
 of the chancel at the further end, on the right of which a 
 temporary figure of the Saviour was elevated upon a 
 square altar, representing him in sadness and sorrow. 
 Before his bent figure a carpet had been spread of a few 
 feet square, where the worshippers had knelt singly or in 
 groups. I occupied a seat at this position during the con- 
 tinuance of the service ; at the close of which the priests 
 advanced in double file to the chancel from the further 
 end of the church. They knelt according to their stand- 
 ing in precedence of office, and were crossed, as I had 
 seen others, with a black cross. But the cross, instead of 
 being placed upon their brow, was traced upon the crown 
 of their head, or the small circular and bare spot which 
 all Catholic priests abroad have shaven on the top of the 
 head, called the tonsure. When the priests had received 
 
314 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the emblem, the crowd promiscuously advanced to the 
 chancel, and the crossing continued until the dark sign 
 had been imprinted on many brows. I advanced to one 
 side of the chancel and witnessed the scene, as the women 
 threw back their mantos now discovering the face of a 
 matron, who received the emblem with gravity now a 
 younger and smiling countenance and greater gentility of 
 mien and person and now a brunette a bronze or black 
 the last apparently constituting the vast majority, while 
 many crowded here, and not a few smiled there as they 
 were huddling together around the chancel, exhibiting a 
 peculiar scene as four or five of the priests continued their 
 services in drawing the dark emblem upon the advancing 
 and receding mass. It seemed rather a holiday scene 
 than one of particular solemnity connected with a day of 
 mourning. Some children also received the cross, but 
 scarcely a male adult besides the priests was there. I 
 know not the intention of the ceremony, but suppose it 
 emblematic of the " ashes and sackcloth" of other times ; 
 and as I marked the multitude here, and the passers-by in 
 the streets as I returned to the hotel, I was forcibly car- 
 ried back to the Hindoo, the Bramin, the Banyan, and the 
 Gentoo, who draw their various marks of various colors 
 upon the brow, when they pay their visits to the temples. 
 
 CATHEDRAL VAULT, AND BONES OF PIZARRO. 
 
 But I must abruptly close the account of my visit to 
 Lima, where so many scenes of other days have occurred ; 
 and about which, associations of the deepest interest cluster; 
 and where my own wanderings have been through the 
 palace of Pizarro through the hundred and more monas- 
 teries and churches and nunneries, all buildings of interest 
 for the space they cover, and many for the style of their 
 architecture, though now crumbling in their solitude and 
 dust ; and the plaza the alameda the arena for the bull- 
 fights the ruins of the inquisition the views from the 
 high steeples of St. Domingo and the Franciscan Convent 
 and garden walks and some pleasant acquaintances 
 formed and the cathedral all, here, must be omitted, 
 save a single scene in the spacious buildings of the last 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 315 
 
 named pile, whose corner-stone was placed by Pizarro, 
 the founder of the empire and the conqueror of Peru. I 
 had several times entered this noble building, the fit mau- 
 soleum of its founder, but now sought it for the purpose 
 of entering the vault where the bones of Pizarro repose, 
 in their slumber of years. I found the doors of the 
 cathedral closed, but soon a person whom I had not before 
 seen presented himself, who had been directed to attend 
 me, should I finally make my appearance. I was later 
 than the hour of my appointment with one of the priests, 
 owing to my delay at the palace. We advanced to the 
 great altar, from which my attendant took a key. The 
 doors of the immense building were closed. The sombre 
 of mellow light threw its solemn effect over the more 
 than twenty altars that lined the sides of the spacious 
 building, rendered still more shaded by the heavy bars of 
 the doors that shut in these altars, forming for each a side 
 chapel with a space of many feet square. And in this 
 solemn house, three hundred and twenty feet deep and a 
 hundred and eighty-six feet in width, there stood, in their 
 shaded recesses and sacred niches, upon their altars, a 
 thousand images of saints of every age, the apostles, che- 
 rubs, angels, the Saviour, the holy family and canonized 
 santas some arrayed in gaudy tinsel, some in sorrow 
 and sackcloth some exhibiting the Saviour crowned with 
 thorns and pierced by spear ; but here they were, at this 
 moment, in their silence and shade and solemnity. The 
 lightest step upon the tiled pavement could be heard 
 throughout the massive pile, and a whisper would find its 
 way in distinctness to the furthest corner of the walls and 
 the highest curve of the ceiling. We walked down from 
 the great altar, along the middle nave of the building, 
 which is elevated several feet above the floor of the side 
 aisles, and beneath which is the vault said to contain, with 
 others of the great in church and state of olden times, the 
 relics of Pizarro. 
 
 We descended from the spacious platform or central 
 terrace, where the high mass is chanted ; and as we came 
 upon the floor of the side nave, my guide placed his heavy 
 key in the door that opened beneath the platform which 
 we had left. The iron hinges grated as the door opened 
 
316 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 inward to the vault ; and the rays of a lighted taper, that 
 the guide bore in his hand, struggled to overcome the 
 thick darkness that here seemed to have reigned so long, 
 that the shades had condensed to a materiality of blackness 
 that could be felt, as we entered among them. We de- 
 scended slowly several steps that brought us to the ground 
 floor of a room, on the left side of which were closed 
 vaults, comparatively of modern construction, sealed with 
 mortar ; and the rubbish of useless lumber, such as broken 
 column and capital of olden altars, and their various orna- 
 ments and accompaniments, filled the space with their 
 heaps. We turned to the right through a low and short 
 passage which ended in an inner room, lined with two tiers 
 of boxes, three high, on three sides. The outer edges of 
 some of them had fallen in, discovering their enclosed 
 skeletons crumbling to slow but final decay. Having 
 examined several on the right, the guide directed me to 
 pass to the opposite side, pointing out to me several loose 
 boards in the centre of the floor, which he cautioned me 
 to avoid. I did not inquire the secret of the dark well 
 they covered, as I well knew that it was the charnel 
 house for the bones of hundreds, for whose souls the 
 masses how many masses ! have been offered up from 
 the altars that were above us, that their spirits might 
 ascend from purgatory to a happier region. The guide now 
 followed me, and holding low down his taper to a box occu- 
 pying the further side of the wall, he added, "Este, Sefior,es 
 el cuerpo de Pizarro." " This, sir, is the body of Pizarro." 
 The edge of the box was broken, and the top gone, 
 showing the dusty and crumbling skeleton, said to be the 
 remaining bones of the conqueror of Peru. The flesh had 
 gone. The skull was naked, showing that it was once 
 the inhabited of a spirit of many years tarry upon earth, as 
 only a few teeth remained in the jaw, while the alveola 
 process, save in two or three spots, had been absorbed. 
 His hands lay crossed upon his breast exhibiting the 
 skeleton of a remarkably small hand and his feet cor- 
 responding in size. Quicklime, that covered parts of the 
 body, had hardened into white lumps, and was dry. 
 Such is the arid property of the atmosphere here, that all 
 fluids are soon evaporated, and no moisture remains in the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 317 
 
 deepest cells. And to this circumstance is attributed the 
 long preservation of the relics of the departed. For now, 
 it is three centuries, wanting less than a year, since 
 Pizarro fell. Parts of a dingy linen shroud still wrapped 
 portions of the relics, and a knotted button clasped a 
 worked thread-lace wristband around the ulna bone of the 
 skeleton. It was a dark place, that depository of the 
 olden dead ; and the unlabelled boxes bore the dust of 
 centuries upon their crumbling slabs. I now held in my 
 hand a small relic from the shroud of Pizarro, which lay 
 loose in the skeleton box, and was returning over the 
 planks that covered the well in the centre of the low and 
 narrow room. The guide following my steps, trod upon 
 a rolling block, which canted him against the wall. The 
 taper affixed to the end of a wooden handle which he 
 carried in his hand, brushed against the buttress that sup- 
 ports the terrace of the altar above, and was extinguished, 
 and we were left in darkness. Not a ray from a crevice 
 or crack penetrated the shades of the vault ; but we were 
 already in the narrow passage that formed the only outlet 
 into the first room of the lumbered vault. My guide was 
 too familiar with the dead to become alarmed at our situation, 
 and we carefully and safely groped our way to the door. 
 We passed from the silent vault, by the flight of six or 
 seven steps, to the side nave of the church. The guide 
 closed again the grating door, and turned the key upon 
 that dark and silent repository of the dead ! 
 
 NIGHT-WALK TO THE RIMAC. 
 
 In the evening I was again passing through the plaza, 
 having proposed a walk with a friend over the bridge, 
 spanning the Rimac. We had reached the plaza, the 
 centre of interest, whatever may be going on by day or 
 by night intended to attract public attention, when a pro- 
 cession of a long train of lanterns was seen advancing 
 from the direction of the cathedral towards us, headed 
 by a bareheaded priest in his canonicals, while the plain- 
 tive voices of three females broke on the still air in the 
 strains of a most affecting dirge. A crowd followed with 
 waxen tapers and painted lanterns, all uncovered ; and 
 
318 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 as they advanced, the gazers-on fell upon their knees, as 
 the melancholy procession in slow and solemn step went 
 on their course. It was a striking scene. The night was 
 dark. Not a whisper was heard around the plaza as the 
 procession moved on, and every head was bare, while 
 many crossed themselves, and others told their beads as 
 they knelt on the pavement. It was the Host, moving to 
 the house of the Infirmo. The procession moved on, the 
 plaintive dirge dying away in the distance, as the lanterns 
 became more and more dim ; and the hushed crowd, that 
 had paused on their steps till the procession had passed, 
 now moved again upon their separate ways. 
 
 We walked on to the bridge and listened to the mur- 
 mur of the waters, that, at this season, roar in their rapid 
 course beneath the arches of this fine structure. We 
 thought that we could fancy the scene before us, when 
 Holla, with the rescued child of Alonzo and his once affi- 
 anced Cora, rushed across the wooden bridge, with Pi- 
 zarro's emissaries full in pursuit. And there, in the dim 
 shade, were the rocks by which the retreating hero passed 
 and evaded his pursuers, though a shot had pierced his 
 noble heart. My friend seemed in like musing mood with 
 myself, as we together leaned over the side parapet of the 
 bridge, practically illustrating the sentiment of the dra- 
 matist, that 
 
 " They only babble who practise not reflection." 
 But my friend soon discovered the drift of his thoughts, 
 by asking if I believed Elvira, in Pizarro, to have been a 
 real character. 
 
 " I believe, at least, the truth of her language" was the 
 reply. " To laugh or weep without a reason, is one of 
 the few privileges poor women have ;" which recalls to 
 my mind an expression of a lady more interesting than 
 Elvira was, when asked for the reason of a sentiment 
 she had advanced. " Ladies," she said, are not required 
 to give their reasons," all a very convenient response. 
 
 My friend, I concluded, had not followed me quite to 
 the end of my answer, exhibiting my preferences in cha- 
 racters, as he now soliloquized, in the language of Elvira, 
 " O men ! men ! ungrateful and perverse, 
 O women, still affectionate, though wronged." 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 319 
 
 When we had reached the lower side of the plaza, on 
 our return, the procession which had been to bear the 
 Host to the house of the sick woman, said to be at the 
 point of death, was just entering the square again. They 
 advanced along the cathedral, to the smaller chapel at its 
 side, as the plaintive dirge or chanted mass for the Infirmo 
 came again to us over the plaza, in its soft and affecting 
 wail. The lights streamed in the distance through the 
 painted lanterns or from tapers that were borne over the 
 heads of the female singers, the cross, and the priest. 
 We passed into the chapel while the last strain from the 
 female voices was ending ; and the priest added his Do- 
 minus Vobiscum et finem. The lights were extinguished, 
 and the crowd dispersed. 
 
 LAST NIGHT IN LIMA. 
 
 I sat until a late hour, this night, in the balcony that 
 jutted slightly out from the windows of my room over 
 the side-walk of the street. The city was wrapped in 
 silence ; and the tapers that but dimly lighted the city in 
 the early part of the night had gone out. The moisture 
 of the night-fall rendered more distinct the step of the 
 watchman, the shrill sound of whose thrice-blowed whis- 
 tle, and salutation to the Virgin, recurred at every hour. 
 Nowhere have I heard the watch-cry of the hour so 
 sweetly sung as here, succeeding the shrill pipe, which 
 comes to the ear, with its pauses, as a prelude to the sono- 
 rous and clear voice, waking after it, in the words of 
 
 " Ave Maria Sanctissima las doce handado, 
 Viva Peru y sereno." 
 
 Hail Maria, virgin most pure, 
 
 By the night-watch twelve is the hour ; 
 
 Long live Peru, home of the free, 
 
 The night is serene, peace be with thee. 
 
 To our fathers of the revolution, the cry of the old 
 watchman at Philadelphia on one occasion, as he passed 
 upon his midnight round, may have been yet more sweet, 
 if not equally sonorous. The town clock struck twelve; 
 and the old watchman regained his youth as his cry re- 
 peated the time, and the welcome news, 
 
 " Twelve o'clock all's well and Cornwallis is taken." 
 
320 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 As we entered Callao, on our return from Lima, we 
 passed our amiable First Lieutenant and two or three 
 other officers, who were taking a stroll on shore. They 
 soon came up to the neighborhood of our landing, and 
 Lieutenant P. introduced to me the Rev. Mr. Small, chap- 
 lain of H. B. M. ship President, who had left his card on 
 board the Columbia during my absence to Lima. He 
 waived his invitation to me to dine with him on board the 
 President the succeeding day, and did me the pleasure of 
 taking dinner with myself and the ward-room mess, on 
 board the Columbia. 
 
 " But you have not seen the first beauty of Lima, Mr. 
 T.," said an officer very partial in his estimate of Miss 
 Vivero, as the interest of my visit at the capital was dis- 
 cussed at the mess-table, in the morning. " I have found 
 an old acquaintance on shore, and you must see her." 
 
 I had a high opinion of the fine taste of my friend, and 
 consented to make my compliments to the family. Mrs. 
 Vivero received us with the ease of one of the old Spanish 
 ladies of the country ; and in a few moments more, her 
 interesting daughter, la Senorita Gertrudes, made her ap- 
 pearance, with a step that recalled to me the vision of the 
 Lady of the Lake, in whose path 
 
 "Even the light hair-bell raised its head 
 Elastic from her airy tread ;" 
 
 and yet, with a becoming reserve that greatly added to 
 her lady-like manner. Her dark eye floated in its clear- 
 ness and light, correspondent in its shade with the tresses 
 of a suit of fine hair, which since the morning bath had 
 been gathered, a Vabandon, in rolls upon the head. The 
 perfect mouth, and fine teeth, and brow so purely fair and 
 womanly, constituted, in their blended features, a face 
 that delayed not to interest, and left its image distinctly 
 traced in the memory. She was in her morning dress 
 and silk slippers, so purely Limanian ; and few beautiful 
 women lose interest to their charms in their dishabille of 
 the morning, when adjusted with a negligent air of neat- 
 ness and taste. La Senorita Gertrudes is an interesting 
 specimen of a Limanian beauty. She preferred Choril- 
 los, she said, to Callao as a bathing-place, to which I as- 
 sented, as all would that love the beauty of the inrolling 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 321 
 
 surf in its finest magnificence, and the grander view there, 
 than at Callao, of the majestic sea. And the North 
 American cities, she thought, she would like to visit, but 
 from the descriptions she had received, would prefer Phi- 
 ladelphia to New- York ; to which I demurred, presuming 
 that some interested Philadelphian had prepossessed the 
 young lady by the colorings of partiality he had used, in 
 his graphic delineations of these rival emporiums. I left 
 this family, with regret that our immediate sailing would 
 prevent me from renewing my calls upon them, agreeably 
 to the very polite invitation of Mrs. Vivero, as we made 
 them our adieus. 
 
 The religious services of the succeeding day were over. 
 The breeze came in, and our two ships got under way 
 together ; and under a press of canvass stood out to sea. 
 More than ever before, do we now feel, that we are on 
 our way to blessed home. 
 
 SECTION XII. 
 
 DOUBLING CAPE HORN. RIO DE JANEIRO. HOME. 
 
 The two ships part company. Gale off Cape Horn. Piece of a wreck. 
 Arrival at Rio de Janeiro, the point of our last departure from the West 
 for the Eastern world. Rest. Story of the second visit to Rio delayed. 
 L aving the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. Difficulty in regaining the impres- 
 sion that we are nearing home, after a long voyage abroad. Off Cape 
 Hatteras. Reflections. Things seen in the cruise. Anticipated wel- 
 come. Lines The Traveller's return to his own dear Home. 
 
 THE Columbia parted company with her consort, the 
 John Adams, when but two or three days out of Callao, 
 and the two ships stood separately on their track, to 
 double Cape Horn. 
 
 The Cape is ever regarded as a disagreeable necessity 
 to be encountered, in making the passage from the Atlan- 
 tic to the Pacific ; and the return, though less dreaded, is 
 still formidable in the apprehensions of seamen. For our- 
 selves, after a voyage of near two years in the tropics, we 
 
322 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 anticipated some suffering from cold; with some severe 
 weather, though the season of the year was favorable for 
 doubling a point, which had been more appropriately call- 
 ed by the early appellative of the sister promontory of the 
 Eastern hemisphere, the " Cape of all Terrors." 
 
 The winds continued to freshen as we made our south- 
 ing, until a gale and snow-storm and hail greeted us as 
 boon companions, on our course. But our ship, under 
 close-reefed topsail and reefed foresail drove before it, and 
 with the exception of laying to for some five hours, con- 
 tinued on our course, with a traverse of ten or eleven 
 knots the hour. On the seventh of April, we reached our 
 southernmost point the winds blowing, at times the pre- 
 ceding night, a hurricane, and on one occasion during the 
 mid- watch a sea was shipped, in which the men, for a 
 moment, were swimming as if overboard ; and though the 
 officer of the deck thought the quarter-boats, for the in- 
 stant, must have gone, no injury was sustained. The gale 
 continued during the day, the sea running higher than we 
 had before seen it, and the snow drifting in its dark 
 sheets, as seen at sea, before the driving tempest. The 
 hour had reached near the meridian, and a sight of the 
 sun was desirable in view of his absence for the few pre- 
 ceding days ; and it was a fortunate, as it was a beautiful 
 coincidence of the hour, that precisely at twelve o'clock, 
 the clouds, as if conscious of our necessities, and in kind- 
 ness for our solicitudes, gathered up their dark folds. The 
 sun, for one moment, came forth. The next, he was again 
 shut in, and the clouds, in their wild drift again through 
 the heavens, were on their dark and fleet wing. We see 
 how utterly impossible it would be to make headway 
 against such a sea as was this day prevailing, with the 
 winds ahead. But our lively bark drives on before it, 
 buoyant in her own element on the surge, as is the alba- 
 tros on his wing as he strikes with his pinion his own na- 
 tive air. How terrible would be a wreck in these tumul- 
 tuous waters, amid the tempest and the cold and the wild 
 rage of the ocean ! No hope could long be cherished. 
 We thought of the schooner, belonging to the exploring 
 expedition, which we supposed must have been swamped 
 somewhere near our present position. And in the height 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 323 
 
 of the storm of this day a piece of a wreck drove by us. 
 The first view gave the appearance of three persons, upon 
 a few spars. The First Lieutenant sprang into the rig- 
 ging, but the drift, in a moment more, was out of sight, 
 though a second glance at it had been sufficient to assure 
 us that no living person was upon it. 
 
 The succeeding day we were standing on our course 
 with studdingsails set, and our passage continued to be 
 favorable. In forty-six days from the time of our weigh- 
 ing anchor in Callao Roads, we were moored, once more, 
 in the beautiful and romantic harbor of Rio de Janeiro. 
 We passed through the narrow entrance of the bay, as a 
 figure upon the ramparts of the fortress hailed us through 
 his trumpet; and having learned the port we last left and 
 the number of days out, he waved his trumpet, adding, 
 " Thank you, sir ; good luck to you." 
 
 RE-ANCHORED IN THE HARBOR OF RIO. 
 
 And now we felt, and with a strangely mingling emo- 
 tion, that we could say, we had made the circuit of the 
 globe. From this point we weighed our anchors nearly 
 two years since, for our long traverse around the world. 
 We have accomplished it ; and our noble ship, that has 
 proved us kindly and true, rests again in the waters of this 
 sleeping and lovely bay, after having cut with her keel, 
 almost every sea and ocean of the globe. And there has 
 been much which we have marked, thought, felt, hoped, 
 feared, and realized, which, at this hour, calls for a re- 
 membrance of the Power which has presided over us 
 directed the winds stilled the tempest arrested disease 
 and preserved the lives of those, who again re-greet the 
 point from which we took our last departure from the 
 western hemisphere, for the eastern world. And it is 
 grateful to the eye, and a cordial to the heart, again to 
 look upon these well-known views, the picturesque bay 
 and surrounding mountains, organ peaks, and abrupt pre- 
 cipices, and mellowing of the granite mountains by the 
 evergreen of the luxurious tropics. And Rio de Janeiro 
 itself, with its white walls and tiled roofs of houses, occu- 
 pying the hills and plains and ravines and the beach, di- 
 
 54* 
 
324 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 minutive in their distant proportions in contrast with the 
 giant elevations of nature around them, yet presents a 
 beautiful whole, which has retained its outline of loveli- 
 ness in our vision the wide world around. And here we 
 rest, for a moment at least. The English and French 
 men-of-war are numerous in the harbor. And what is 
 worth a thousand men-of-war, letters from those we love 
 have been awaiting us, which we devour with weeping 
 eyes and heaving hearts. 
 
 We delayed a number of days at Rio, and the time 
 spent there was agreeably occupied many objects of in- 
 terest presenting themselves new acquaintances formed 
 rides and walks taken conversations enjoyed and 
 reflections made; but all these and the story of our second 
 call at Rio de Janeiro, must be elsewhere told, if told at all. 
 
 Thursday morning, May the 6th, was the time fixed for 
 our sailing. I had taken leave of my friends. The land 
 breeze came early over the bay, and all hands, to get under 
 way, were in their stations at daybreak. The ship was 
 cast from her moorings, and fell off gracefully from our 
 nearest neighbor, H. B. M. ship Stag, and with the John 
 Adams already following our motions, we glided towards 
 the mouth of the harbor, passing the two U. S. sloops, the 
 Falmouth and the Decatur, as yet but just awake as we 
 moved near them. The breeze was favorable ; but just 
 before we had entered the narrow pass of the harbor the 
 fog fell heavily upon our decks, and the two ships, now 
 abeam, were no longer seen by each other. But the boats 
 were on each side of us, and a hail from one of them soon 
 cried, "The fort is directly ahead, sir." "Ay, ay," was the 
 response, and " Port the helm," was an accompanying 
 order, which, with a knowledge of the bearings, carried the 
 frigate safely through the narrow passage. The fog lift 
 ed, and the John Adams was seen at the windward of us. 
 having, unperceived, crossed our bows ; and, together, 
 once more we are at sea, on the sixth morning of May, it 
 being the anniversary morning of our leaving the United 
 States, for our cruise of the world, two years ago. 
 
 Our track was now to be a direct one for the homes 
 which we had left so many months before, and after 
 having accomplished so long a traverse around the world. 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 325 
 
 It seemed, however, a difficulty to realize the fact that 
 our next anchorage-ground would be within the waters 
 of the United States so long and so often had we left 
 foreign ports for still other foreign ports. But the fre- 
 quent congratulations that were passing the daily reckon- 
 ing up of the distance from the port we anticipated to 
 make and the frequent sound of "Home, sweet, sweet 
 home," on the band, and flute, and in vocal solo from ward- 
 room, state-room, and steerage, began to make their im- 
 pression, until incredulity itself was forced to yield to the 
 conviction, that it was even so our next port would be 
 Boston or New- York Boston, if winds favored New- 
 York, if they opposed. 
 
 THE REVIEW. 
 
 fknonoft 
 
 And now, while I am writing this page, on the ninth 
 of June, we are off Cape Hatteras, some hundred miles 
 east of it. The passage from Rio de Janeiro has been 
 favorable thus far, with the exception of the first ten days 
 out ; and it has been a time for leisurely reviewing some of 
 the incidents of the cruise. Many of them have been 
 pleasant. Great varieties of the human species have been 
 seen. Greater variety of incident, perhaps, has also been 
 attendant on the cruise, than is usual for a peace-ship to 
 witness. The olden East has been seen the thousand 
 casts that go to make up the medley mass of the brown, 
 and bronzed, and ebony faces of Africa, Arabia, and Hin- 
 doostan, the lighter-complexioned millions of the Tartars 
 and the Chinese, and the yellow and copper- featured isl- 
 anders of the north and southern oceans. The beautiful 
 lands of the tropics delight, for a season at least, the gaze 
 of the voyager, as they spread out to his view the luxuri- 
 ousness of their foliage, and delight his taste with the vari- 
 eties and deliciousness of their fruits. The adventurous 
 Europeans and Americans abroad, have also been seen. 
 The Englishman, in his wide rule, ambition, wealth and 
 taste, beautifying whatever his nation touches, and possess- 
 ing whatever his nation can frame apology for securing 
 and holding. The Portuguese, those first voyagers on the 
 seas, have left their traces everywhere, but all now with 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 them is decay, evidencing the wreck of superstitious insti- 
 tutions, and the passing away of the intolerance and the 
 arbitrary rule of the earliest possessors of the East, of 
 which we read in the goings and in the actions of their 
 first viceroys ; but their impressions, their language, and 
 their descendants, still remain as monuments, though in 
 decay, of early enterprise, dominion, and power. And 
 the indolent and not unchivalric Spaniard has left, on the 
 western shore of Southern America, a race that has cover- 
 ed the many and beautiful provinces on the coasts washed 
 by the Pacific, whose gold and silver and superstitions 
 have been their ruin, but who are beginning to exhibit the 
 evidences of more than recovering their downfall, and 
 elevating themselves to dignity and worth among the in- 
 dependent nations of the world. And France, though her 
 foreign possessions are few, her citizens are everywhere 
 abroad, and amalgamate, with all their native flexibility 
 and frugality, with the descendants of their European 
 neighbors. And Americans, those everywhere enterpris- 
 ing and adventurous people, have been seen in every cor- 
 ner of the globe, careless alike what revolutions take place, 
 or tumults in morals, politics, or physics occur, provided 
 they all contribute, as they often do, to fill their treasures 
 with the precious materials from the mines of the earth. 
 And yet money-making as they are, they show themselves 
 to be a race capable of feeling and acting for the advance- 
 ment of their species universally, in all that is intellectual 
 and moral, as evidenced by the numbers of American mis- 
 sionaries abroad, on every foreign strand of the main in 
 each hemisphere, and almost on every island of every sea 
 men and women too, who do credit to American intel- 
 lect, and American Christianity. And the superstitions 
 of heathen nations, in their thousand- formed variety, cruel- 
 ty, deformity, and absurdity, have passed before our ob- 
 servation, in contrast with the benevolent, and lovely, and 
 elevating, and fit system of the religion of the gospel of 
 Jesus Christ. 
 
 And we trust, in the review, that the movements of the 
 squadron have been attended by the acquisition of some 
 addition of honorable consideration, for the nation, whose 
 flag it has borne, in courtesy and dignity, around the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 327 
 
 world. The ships have everywhere done themselves 
 credit, as fine models of their class for the order and 
 neatness in which they have invariably been kept and 
 the courteous and honorable bearing they have preserved, 
 wherever they have been. Their civilities have been re- 
 ciprocated with apparent cordiality and sincerity of feel- 
 ing. And while foreign nations have spoken kind things 
 of the good ships and the nation whose courtesies they have 
 borne, they have also served, as one of the chief purposes 
 for which they went, to re-assure the American abroad, 
 that he has a protecting government at home, which feels 
 a care for the interests of its citizens in other lands. 
 
 But on this cruise, many of those who commenced it 
 have been left, in their different places, to their long re- 
 pose of mortality. Of the frigate's crew more than sev- 
 enty have died mostly with diseases attendant on the 
 climates of the East. 
 
 But it is known that the crew of a man-of-war is often 
 and most generally made up of men whose constitutions 
 have been broken by previous dissipation, which renders 
 them ready victims of the diseases of tropical climates. 
 The scenes which have been presented to myself, on my 
 rounds among the ill and the dying, have often been affect- 
 ing. The complaint with which most have died, left the 
 mind clear to the last ; and the approaches to the last hour 
 were generally known to the patients themselves. The 
 tear of regret, I have often seen to line the emaciated 
 cheek of the departing sailor, as he confessed his wander- 
 ings and lamented his delay of repentance till so late an 
 hour. Again, I have witnessed the trace of despair on the 
 gravely settled features, as a hopelessness possessed the 
 sunken bosom. And again, I have, sometimes, marked 
 the relieving light of hope throwing its brightness on the 
 confiding features, as the spirit left the body for ever. 
 
 The cruise of the world will have afforded the lover of 
 the natural sciences many opportunities for gratifying his 
 curiosity, and for illustrating and confirming his theories 
 of the phenomena of the earth and the universe. He has 
 seen the sun and the moon on his south and on his north ; 
 and the northern and the southern constellations alternately 
 to go down and come up, as he receded from or neared 
 
328 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the equator. The earth he has measured by his own track. 
 Ours, on reaching Boston, will have been nearly fifty thou- 
 sand miles, on our traverse from port to port, as we have 
 accomplished the circuit of the globe. 
 
 And to regain a view of the north star, an old familiar 
 friend, whom we have several times lost on our winding 
 way around the world having five times crossed the 
 equator, on our cruise is indeed a welcome incident. 
 And now, to read again the stars of the northern hemis- 
 phere is most acceptable, many of them having been for 
 so long a time lost on our southern course. They awaken 
 their thousand associations of other days, and look down 
 from their blue halls upon one again, with smiles, that 
 seem to re-assure him of a welcome that shall be sincere, 
 to the climes on which they for ever shine. And we will 
 trust these bright omens, as we continue to near the land 
 of our homes. We know that warm hearts await us, if 
 the life-stream is still coursing them. Solicitudes awake, 
 however, in the changes every epistle bears to us, that 
 others yet nearer of our kindred and choicest friends may 
 have gone, before we shall re-greet them. But the Provi- 
 dence which has been so favorably directing, towards us, 
 so far, is worthy of our trust ; and whatever may be its 
 metings-out, of good or ill for this life, we will confide in 
 the assurance that " God doeth all things well." 
 
 THE LINER. 
 
 So had I written, a few days since. Our ship has urged 
 on her way, until to-day, the llth, she lies on the parallel 
 of New-York, distant some two hundred miles ; and this 
 evening, while the sea was as smooth as a lake the sun 
 mild and a gentle breeze filling the sails, a large ship, 
 supposed to be one of the " liners" out of New- York, was 
 seen to be standing on, with her studdingsails set ; while 
 close-hauled ourselves, we were laying across her track. 
 
 The " liner" coming on, with the fair breeze filling her 
 canvass under an easy pressure, was anticipated by the 
 courteous frigate, as the men, already at their stations, 
 furled the royals, run up the courses, and hauled down and 
 stowed the flying-jib. Another moment the yards of the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 329 
 
 main were braced aback, and the frigate slept on the 
 waters, as if she were a fairy ship, that, like some bird 
 of passage, had, for one moment, so bent its pinions as to 
 rest over some object, which attracted the gaze of its 
 peering eye. 
 
 Every eye from the " liner" was on the man-of-war. 
 Long ranges of passengers were gazing ladies in their 
 bonnets and gentlemen in their hats as if some phantom- 
 ship, by some magic, and in her beauty, had suddenly 
 woke to their sight for not a head aboard the frigate was 
 seen above the bulwarks, and the distant eye, as it gazed 
 on the war-ship, could find no living being among her 
 rigging, while she was yet held in her place obedient to 
 the will, and every movement seemed but the volition of 
 her own unread and quiet bosom. Not a whisper was 
 heard aboard the frigate, as the " liner" was gliding by, 
 and stillness deep as a death-sleep possessed her decks. 
 No hail was given as the vessels were now abeam nor 
 on board the frigate could a being have been seen, to an- 
 swer the hail. Not even the ripple beneath the bows of 
 the frigate was heard, as the two ships glided so stilly by, 
 on their slow and opposite and even way, until they now 
 began to recede from each other, while the flag of the 
 Columbia floated, as her only recognition, in its gentle 
 waves on the breeze. 
 
 I know not why, but the scene had in it, to me, the 
 height of the melancholy. There were ranges of faces on 
 the decks of the passing ship which I felt I would gladly 
 have recognised and spoken with. And yet no word was 
 heard, and they passed on and not by uneven steps and 
 varied motion that destroys the spell of enchantment ; but 
 as a cloud sails through the deep blue of heaven, on its 
 soft and monotonous passage, which causes the tide of 
 sadness to flow uninterruptedly out from the bosom of him 
 who gazes upon its even course, with a broken heart. 
 The ship had borne home my own thoughts, as her name 
 and hull were known to me. And in the combinations of 
 the magic scene, I almost fancied that I had reached my 
 home, and found it all as a deserted hall or, rather, that 
 I dreamed that I was there, and my friends that loved and 
 whom I loved came and gazed kindly on me, but spoke 
 
330 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 not, and passed on and away for ever. I gazed upon the 
 slowly receding ship, with emotions that each moment 
 continued to deepen, until I leaned my head upon the net- 
 tings as I stood upon the arm-chest of the quarter-deck, 
 and, burying my face in my handkerchief, gave freedom 
 to the strangely mingling emotions of my heart. Surely, 
 man's bosom is a strange thing, in the ebb and flow of its 
 tides of joyous and melancholy emotions: 
 
 No scale hath measure for its bounding joy, 
 No number tells its bitterest alloy ; 
 And light and shade no quicker come and go, 
 Than are the changes which our bosoms know. 
 
 Our boat had been lowered as the " liner" approached ; 
 and with the First Lieutenant in her, she pulled across the 
 bows of the nearing ship, and boarded her for the news. 
 The Lieutenant brought us back papers almost wet from 
 the press, and reported the delight which our frigate had 
 created on board the packet-ship. In the language of her 
 captain, " his ship's company were all crazed, even to his 
 own steward," most of them never having before met an 
 American man-of-war at sea. 
 
 The breeze freshened, after we had parted with the 
 " liner," and our ship stood on her course during the night 
 and the succeeding day, our excitement increasing each 
 league our good frigate reached on towards our port of 
 destination, until, this morning, the thirteenth of June, 
 twenty-eight days from Rio de Janeiro, the sandy shore 
 of Cape Cod is seen to stretch along its golden rim gold- 
 en to us, however barren to those who till it, for it is the 
 long hoped-for strand of our native land, that was destined 
 to give us welcome again to the shores of our western 
 homes. Nor could those same banks, with here and there 
 the fields of turf and distant hamlet and church, in con- 
 trast with their sandy sides, have been more grateful to 
 the sight of the weather-beaten pilgrims of the May- 
 Flower, than to the vision of ourselves, on our return to 
 end our pilgrimage around the world. And it has now 
 been accomplished. The ship still stood in the Boston 
 light loomed on the view a hundred sails were seen 
 gliding along the coast the pilot received on board 
 and, while I write, the nine o'clock music is heard, as the 
 
A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 331 
 
 tattoo rolls through the ship, now lying at her rest and 
 anchors, off the lighthouse of Boston harbor.* 
 
 The boat has gone with our letters, telling our friends 
 that we are again in the waters of the United States, and 
 that we soon will present ourselves for their cordial wel- 
 come and affectionate embrace. 
 
 And it is to this re-greeting of friends and kindred, that 
 the returning voyager gives his thoughts, with concen- 
 trating feelings, as the anchors of his ship drop again in 
 the waters of his own beloved country. The memories 
 of enjoyed scenes among those friends, now fill his fancies 
 with visions more dear than any foreign recollections can 
 awaken. And with his friends again he will rest, after a 
 succession of changes which have begun to tire, however 
 interesting they may have been, in the variety they have 
 presented. And it will be a welcome rest, amid welcome 
 circumstances. Such, at least, are the emotions of my 
 own bosom, such the combinations of my own fancies. 
 And I wait but the coming of the orders from the depart- 
 ment, which will bear the leaves of absence to the offi- 
 cers of the ship, to realize all that fancy dreams and 
 bosoms feel, on the return of one with warm attachments 
 to kindred, than whom none can be more endeared ; and 
 to a home, than which none can be more beloved. At 
 such a moment and with such feelings, it is fit to termi- 
 nate this manuscript. And though all the associations of 
 the following lines may not be exclusively connected with 
 the descriptions of these volumes, now ending, they yet 
 emblem forth the present feelings of the writer, as 
 
 THE TRAVELLER'S RETURN TO HIS OWN DEAR HOME. 
 
 I've wandered 'mid palaces where pleasures are known, 
 And I've traversed the ocean where the blue waves foam ; 
 I've mingled with great ones, seen the gay earth, 
 But found nought so dear as my own native hearth : 
 
 Home, home, yes, I come, 
 Oh welcome me back again, my own dear home. 
 
 I've strolled on the sea-shores, 'neath suns ever mild ; 
 And I've trailed with the Indian his dark wooded wild ; 
 I've wandered on mountain tops, in valleys below, 
 But the warm-gush of home-love dearer would flow. 
 
 * The corvette arrived in safety a day or two after us 
 
332 A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 I've breathed with the Zenian* in his own inner land, 
 The aroma of his teas, and the flowers from his hand ; 
 But the cup and the flower have a richness more dear 
 Round the board and the mantel where my kindred are near. 
 
 I've read the bright night-lights that fairer have shown 
 From a deeper blue vault than smiles o'er my home ; 
 But longest I've gazed on a pale northern star, 
 That pointed to the land where my home lay afar. 
 
 I've gazed on the disk of the pale beaming moon, 
 As she rode in her cloud-car high in her noon ; 
 But her wake on the wave as she waned to her rest, 
 Bore on my sad thoughts to my home in the West. 
 
 I've sat by the gifted, as the fair one hath swept 
 The strings of the lyre while the paean slept ; 
 But the spell of the lyre that thrilled the fond breast, 
 Hath served but to bear me to my home in the West. 
 
 At far distant altars in worship I've bowed, 
 
 But not as a stranger I prayed with the crowd ; 
 
 For the same hallowed prayers, f my heart oft would melt 
 
 In the ever-loved temple, at home, as I knelt 
 
 And on my lone cot when my pulses ran low, 
 And the fever's wild beat hath throbbed my pale brow, 
 I've heard, in my dream, the death-plunge to the deep, 
 But I prayed, with my kindred, at last, I might sleep. 
 
 However kind strangers in splendor have come 
 To proffer the traveller their friendship and home, 
 The smile of the wise, the caress of the gay, 
 Withheld not his thoughts from the dearer than they. 
 
 In shadows of evening when day melts away, 
 And memories of home o'er the heart hold their sway, 
 Affection's fond tears their barriers o'ercome, 
 And the spell that is on me cries back to my home. 
 
 No more then I'll roam from the land of my birth 
 To gaze on the world in its splendor or mirth ; 
 'Twill more than suffice that I've learned its false glare, 
 As the days of my future with loved ones I share : 
 
 Home, home, ay, I come, 
 And ever I'll cling to thee, my own dear home. 
 
 * Zenia is the ancient name of China. t Service of the Episcopal Church. 
 
 THE END.