To JEPOISHLEM THROUGH THE LHNDS OF ISLHM BY MHDHME HYHCINTHE LOYSON REESE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. Class THE PYRAMIDS THROUGH DATE PALMS ACROSS THE NILE. TO JERUSALEM THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM AMONG JEWS, CHRISTIANS, AND MOSLEMS MADAME HYACINTHE LOYSON PREFACE BY PRINCE DE POLIGNAC CHICAGO THE OPEN COURT PUBLISHING COMPANY LONDON AGENTS KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRUBNER & CO., LTD. 1905 F'FSE COPYRIGHT EY THE OPEN COURT PUBLISHING Co. 1905 AVANT-PROPOS. BY YOUSSEF ZIA PACHA EL KHALIDY, Former Deputy to the Constitutional Parliament of Turkey, Ex-governor in Palestine, author of a grammar for the lan- guage of the Druses, Professor of Arabic at the University of Vienna, etc., etc., etc. TO MADAME HYACINTHE LOYSON. May God aid and bless her in her projects of union and love among different peoples! DEAR MADAME: You have given me the occasion, in announcing the publication of your book, to express to you my gratefulness for the sublime work which you have undertaken: that of reconciling all believers in the same God, and particularly among Mussulmans and Chris- tians who are separated by prejudices adroitly circulated. Un- fortunately there are Europeans (and of other Occidental countries) who, for their own interested motives, still permit it to be circulated that the Book of Mahomet commands disdain and hatred to non- Mussulman people. This is a profound error! But there are learned Christian philosophers who have studied our Moslem Laws and who very justly laud the Koran which is our guide in all things. You, dear Madame, come to the succor of the oppressed; and the eyes of the entire Orient are upon you. And what you have already done is graven on the hearts of all. I shall never forget the happy days spent with you, and your illustrious husband, within the walls of Jerusalem which is the Holy City for us all and where Pere Hyacinthe came preaching, as did the Christ, the reconciliation and unity of all believers; and IV THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. where we were permitted to hold long conferences concerning these great questions. As a true disciple of Mahomet, whose religion has its roots in the profound Faith based upon Reason I subscribe myself, dear Madame, the devout worshiper of of God and your humble servant, Praying Allah to accord you long life to accomplish your noble mission. YOUSSEF ZlA EL KHALIDY, Ex-Mayor of Jerusalem. April, 1901. PREFACE.. THIS book is the expression of truth which has been felt and lived. It bears witness to the spirit of the early days of Christianity ; it is a revelation of the mysterious link which unites us with the conquered race of Islam. The author is a woman of another continent than that of which she writes, or in which she writes. She has been for a tour through Algeria, a tour which was neither scientific, nor historical, nor geo- graphical, but something better and more original than all these : a tour of Christian Exploration. The result she has attained is as striking as it w r as unexpected. That result does not consist in the indication of new riches to be exploited in a conquered country, in a colony which is but an ex- tension of France, nor in any of those advantages which are the ordinary objects and achievements of our humanitarian explorations. On the contrary, our author discovers that the Arab, though de- spoiled by our conquest, has preserved riches of which we cannot deprive him, and advantages which suffice for his happiness during his earthly life. For what is to us merely optional, or unnecessary, is to the Arab indispensable. These treasures are the brotherhood of souls in the faith in God ; the principles of conduct w r hich result from it, and the admirable instinct which enables him to distinguish, even before a word has been spoken, between true affinity and hypocritical sympathy. These are the treasures which "neither moth nor rust doth corrupt." The vanquished finds therein a source of joy of which none can deprive him : for he has laid up his treasure in his heart. Such are the author's discoveries. Her book is Hat lux of our Algeria. We must read it or rather we must travel with her, for truth guides her pen, as charity has guided her steps. THROUGH THE LANDS $ F ISLAM. VI I commend to you therefore, friendly reader, these pages of a true Christian woman. You will make the same journey that she has made and you will return the better for it. PRINCE DE POLIGNAC. Colonel of the French Army in Algiers. PARIS, July 4, 1897. CONTENTS. Avant-propos iii Preface v Introduction I 1. In the Lands of Islam 1 1 2. In the Home of Islam . 15 3. A Conference by Pere Hyacinthe in Algiers 26 4. From Algiers to Oran 36 5. A Moonlight Night in the Atlas Mountains 48 6. Oran to Tlemcen 54 7. Tlemcen. The Great Mosque. El-Eubbad. Maussoura. The Cadi 64 8. To the East 80 9. From Algiers to Constantine 84 10. Tunis 95 n. The Sheik-Ul-Islam 106 12. Malta 120 13. From Malta to Alexandria in a Hurricane 127 14. From Alexandria to Cairo 132 15. The Pyramids 137 16. Cairo I4 2 17. Up the Nile. Karnak. 146 18. Upper Egypt. Assouan 154 19. Preaching in the Desert 167 20. Philae. Shooting the Cataract. Down the Nile. Luxor. Karnak 178 21. Thebes. The Tombs of the Kings. The Colossi 188 22. Return to Cairo 198 23. The English in Egypt 207 24. Cairo. Concerning Islam. Conference of Pere Hyacinthe. 212 25. Turning Dervishes 220 Vili THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. CHAPTER PAGE 26. The Coptic Church 226 27. Communion in the Coptic Cathedral. The Tewfik Society. Coptic Women 231 28. Second Visit to the Pyramids. Leaving Cairo 241 29. Missions and Missionaries 252 30. Alexandria . . 261 31. Jaffa 265 32. At Last! 271 33. Jerusalem. Solomon's Temple. Churches. The Holy Se- pulchre. The Grand Rabbi 274 34. Bethlehem. How We were Stoned in Hebron . . 287 35. Pere Hyacinthe Preaches in Jerusalem 300 36. The Jordan. Greek Convent. The Dead Sea 303 37. The Easter Vigil in Jerusalem 313 38. Juxtaposition and Conclusion 319 INTRODUCTION WHICH IS A CONFESSION. IN the first place this is not a book ; but only a fragmen- tary record of some of the various travels in foreign lands in the years 1894-6, with desultory descriptions of the places, peoples, and persons; and also some intima- tions of impressions in rare and common experiences. The lapse of time between these voyages and their publication has been caused by greater duties, illness, other voyages, and from the hindering fact of my first copy having been lost. Few writers have the courage, or the fool-hardiness, to tell all they see or feel; and those who do are apt to fail in edification. I shall not attempt it. The dominant chord of these impressions is confirmed faith in God as the Omnipresent Ruler in human events, and as the Merciful Father. The key-note is Peace and Loving-kindness, leading to the Kingdom of Heaven on earth, which we firmly believe will come; else the Supreme Prayer of our Lord is but verbiage. The minor tone is pity for the world; and the oft-recurring jangled notes are those of profound forboding of disaster, mingled with righteous indignation and holy disgust at the hypocritical endeavor of so-called Christians to reconcile sensuality, paganism, and infidel- ity, with the life as in Christ ; and for pretended moralists who ignore morality, practising falsehood, theft, adultery, 2 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. and massacre! And if I sometimes lack charity in ex- pressing my feeling, I sincerely ask pardon. I am no pessimist, but the opposite yet I am con- vinced after a long life of careful observation and un- usual experience, that the prodigious intestine strain upon humanity may manifest itself on the surface of political events any day like the bursting forth of Mont Pele in a distant island of the great archipelago of nations; and that the long impending catastrophe can only be averted by careful observation and timely action in the domain of religion, which is to humanity what the atmosphere is to the earth. I do not say, or mean, the domain of dogma, which has, however, its rightful place and very great im- portance as have observatories and light-houses. This moral atmosphere which encircles our globe to-day is like an overcharged electric belt that requires but a scintillation of diplomatic friction to spread rapine and carnage throughout the world. The lust of gold and the ambition of empire are the main driving forces in this menacing cataclysm, but they are human forces or Sa- tanic, (for we believe in the devil whatever form or in- fluence he may be) ; and underlying these forces as the infinite always underlies the finite is the major force, and ventually the higher law which that central motor power commands, must be established among men. It remains for this generation to decide whether we must return again to the old Satanic alliance of blood between men and hell, for another vain attempt to subjugate the children of God into permanent sin; or after twenty cen- turies of bootless, hopeless trial, to accept the Precious Blood of Christ as the last drop shed in that cruel covenant of killing, for the inauguration of the New and Bloodless Method of Love. Leaving the lesser divisions, we here place ourselves before the two most powerful standing armies on the INTRODUCTION. 3 earth; and they are the most powerful because they are the two greatest religious bodies existent. We do not count in numbers, but in moral forces ; and their greatness lies neither in the wealth nor empires they represent, but in their common indestructible faith in their Common Creator, Universal Ruler, and Divine Father. On one side of these two formidable armies, is divided Christendom, armed cap-a-pie with all the refinements of science and modern invention for human slaughter; on the other undivided Islam, for the most part miserably accoutered w 7 ith our worn-out matchlocks and broken swords. Christendom includes about four hundred mil- lion souls; Islam numbers nearly three hundred millions. Between these far-stretching battalions which stand, or rather bivouac, over against each other, there lies a neu- tral zone, with fallow green fields; and there sleeps Israel alas! among the tombs of the Prophets; and One in the midst thereof is empty. But that empty tomb of an humble Jew is the center of the world! While the great Christian powers have their various conflicting political and ecclesiastical interests to vindi- cate, Islam has but one, and that is universal and eternal : the supremacy, not of any earthly government for it is bound to none but of God. Diplomacy can do but little to bridge the chasm which divides these millions of believers, and war can only widen it and envenom the horrible wound in the great heart of humanity. While arms are at rest for a time, or an armis- tice is declared, then is the opportunity to prepare for per- manent peace. Let not the sentinels sleep on the watch- towers ! When engineers would bridge over an abyss which yawns between two unequal shores, there must be a level- ing process of cutting down one and building up the other. A similar operation is necessary if we would 4 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. bridge the gulf between Christianity and Islam. And all the debris and scoria should be cast into the depths of the abyss to help build up over oblivion the grand high- way of human happiness. When this is accomplished and we are able to pass over freely and in good fellowship, we shall discover that if Christianity has great achieve- ments to offer to Islam, Islam has treasures of priceless worth to give in exchange. To render the present situation more complex, the two major factors of civilization, Religion and Science, sub- lime converging forces, w 7 hich are being brought every day into closer lines as they approach the great center of all truth, are still, unfortunately, self-supposed enemies. Their intrinsic relations must, however, sooner or later, lead to mutual and friendly recognition; and then Law, Order and Love w r ill begin their normal and legitimate functions. We have a sublime case in hand as I write these lines ; and those who see the invisible with spiritual eyes and hear with spiritual ears the unspoken words of Science, cannot fail to discern the voices and forms of Elohim as they move over the boundless seas and thro' the fathomless air, carrying messages from hemisphere to hemisphere by wireless telegraph! Oh! blind and deaf scientists! ye discern not the sublime achievements of your own hands ! the result of your own divine inspiration! the proof of your own scientific deductions! all of which show forth the infinite and inexhaustible treasures and possi- bilities of the Great First Cause, which is Jehovah! Be- hold within yourselves His Glory! The youth Marconi, like a greater than he, was not believed in by his own people, but strangers received him. And already the whole world acclaims him ! Still, He who is Divine Mediator between God and man, between all Science and Religion, they will not yet acclaim! INTRODUCTION. 5 One of the best means of hastening this reconciliation between seemingly opposing principles, and between dif- ferent races and opposing peoples, is friendly inter- course, good fellowship, and union between persons of different creeds or religious beliefs, as well as between different seekers after scientific truths; for when the re- lations of life are brought into the domain of harmony and conscience, latent forces are aroused, hostile ones are attenuated, and generous ones are assimilated. And there are innumerable souls throughout all the divisions of society, not only in the churches, but in schools, work- shops, and laboratories, in fields and forests, in theaters and parliaments; some are fearless and active, others are timid and sometimes discouraged, but laboring still, hoping, praying, for the accomplishment of this beneficent result yearning for the Ideal in the Real, and for the In- finite in Sorrow. Who is there, then, within the pale of recognized Brotherhood of men, and has a heart in his breast, that does not cry aloud and upward : "Oh ! Eternal Father! let Thy will be done!" How important and rich becomes every day of our lives of sojourn or travel, of work or repose, if we keep in mind that every endeavor to help a fellow-creature every prayer, every scientific discovery, and above all, every determined effort for purity and justice, every gen- erous action toward our enemies, aye! every trial or sor- row, are preparing the way for the ultimate Kingdom of God on earth which is the absolute sequence of creation. * * * In perusing these pages, some person may think that I abase the Christian while extolling the Mussulman. To abase is wrong; but to humble the proud and to en- lighten the ignorant, in high places as in low, in the self- righteous as in the sinner, is to render service; and this sometimes becomes a duty. 6 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. It also may be said that in our travels we saw only the bright side of Islam. Well! that is just what we desired to see; not, however, ignoring the shadow for one must be blind and senseless not to see and feel that in the solar system which we inhabit, physically and morally, the stronger the light the deeper the shade. From the burn- ing heat of a fatiguing day we may seek refreshing shadow; but for accurate observation, give us the broad full sunlight! The fact of it is, we had heard quite .enough of the dark side of Islam, so we determined to pursue our studies on the side looking to the sun. And what undreamt-of beauty and wealth God's sun- shine reveals! Then we ask, Is it fair? Is it just? Is it Christlike? like Him of whom, as it is narrated in Jewish history, one day while wandering through the lanes and byways of Jerusalem, found in the repugnant decomposition of a dead dog, something to admire ; and turning to the hoot- ing crowd which was gathered about this loathsome ob- ject, remarked in His own sweet way: "At least it has white teeth." Is it right, fair, or just, to visit other people in their homes, or in their countries, wherever they dwell, and come away to decry them ? our brethren, who are strug- gling into higher life, holding them up to the cruel criti- cism, condemnation, and ridicule of those who have, also, had their dark ages of struggle up to a "higher civili- sation," and who believe themselves admitted (O, preten- tious man!) into the "more perfect knowledge of God!" No! it is not right! Travel is incumbent upon all, especially upon bene- factors, and a thorough traveller can, perhaps, do more good in a voyage, if he knows how to travel, than to write a book. INTRODUCTION. / In studying the monuments and institutions of strange countries, we visit, not only churches, cathedrals, and palaces, but prisons and hospitals as well. In prisons we have only to know that there are prisoners within to be assured that they contain law-breakers; and to see their chains, to understand that crime has been committed. Yet this does not deter us from conversing with these crimi- nals; nor, perhaps, from suggesting to jailors some mod- ern sanitary measures and improvements in the sad prison life. Then it is possible that there might be some falsely accused prisoners therein, and a word of heavenly hope might console them for human injustice. And in visiting hospitals we do not ask the inmates to uncover their wounds and sores to satisfy a morbid and indecent curiosity; we only see their pale faces, clasp their hands, and look into their wistful eyes which often speak the language of a smothered soul when lips are silent to know the inmates are sick, with malady or sin, and to feel that they are our kindred. And if we are human we give them what we can of sympathy, prayer, and hope; than which there is no greater gift for the sorrowful, for the sick, or for the sinner. We did not go to Africa and Asia on a hunting ex- pedition in quest of "big game" not to be found in Europe : lions, tigers, elephants ; neither did we go in search of the "small game," scorpions, vipers, and other foul and creep- ing things which we have in abundance at home. We went seeking our fellow-men whom we knew not ; new and unlike peoples, of gentle manners and simple faith; with all their varied environments: blue skies, sunlight, and fair landscapes in far horizons; glorified sunsets and re- splendent nights, with perfumed atmosphere and ambient breezes; looking everywhere for new manifestations of nature's beauty and God's love; and, in short, all sorts of rare, sweet, and beautiful things ! Thank Heaven ! which 8 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. guided us, we found not only what we sought, but, in spite of the misguidance of men and the ill-adjustment of circumstances, we found above and encompassing all, everywhere on the sea and on the land the ineffable joy of the Infinite Presence. * * * I must now beg the reader to bear in mind that, though I am an American by birth, I became, by my marriage, a French citizen; and that although, as a Humanitarian believer, I take a paramount interest in the religion of Islam which counts nearly three hundred millions of the firmest monotheists on the globe! and that France has thirty million Moslem subjects in Africa alone, independ- ent of her large possessions in the extreme Orient; and that there is united with my profound religious interest a bounden, patriotic duty, which must not be ignored. As to my English, I can only say that I have lived outside of it, mostly, for more than forty years. Sixty years -ago, in Chautauqua, Western New York, Horace Mann laid his hand upon my head saying : "Little girl, the Schoolmaster tells me you help him write the copies in the other scholars' copy books; that's good, go on, do your best!" Fifty years ago, over a breakfast table in New York City, Horace Greeley, who ate only bread and milk, said to me: "Your ideas are right as to the superiority of the fruits of the earth, as was originally intended for the sustenance of man, over animal food; only go on and write about it!" Forty years ago George Bancroft said to me: "Your eyes were not made to weep, even over this hell let loose in our country,* but to guide your pen against slavery and war in every land!" Thirty years ago Longfellow, looking from my win- *The War of Secession. INTRODUCTION. 9 dow at Passy, over Paris, said: "But take care that this beautiful city and la belle France, with her innumerable attractions and her struggles, do not make you neglect your own country; and with all these other languages, forget your own tongue!" I disobeyed them all having been called of Provi- dence to an active part in the initiation of a great religious and social reform, with its manifold duties and trials; and now that I am old, and with other superabundant blessings, have leisure, behold my humiliation! which is sine qua non for canonic confession! * * * By my impressions of these travels in Oriental lands, I may be suspected of unusual sympathy for Mussulmans ; but there is no place for suspicion when the fact is evident ; and as "an honest confession is good for the soul," and sometimes for the confessor as well as the penitent, I will say that I am certainly very sympathetic for the grand indomitable Arab race, and for the sublime, unswerving faith of Islam. Was not Abraham the father of Ismael, as well as Jacob? Furthermore, (for in valid confession there must be no "mental reservation" or covert "inten- tion,") I will state that I am also very sympathetic for the believers in the farther East : the Hindus, who, though they have not a positive conception of the Living God, are less than all others given to persecution because of religious dissimilarities, and make for peace on earth more than do those of other great religions. Moreover, I love the Jews and with peculiar affection ; for they are of the. Ancient Race of Believers, chosen of God, and have written for us the grandest Sacred History of Hu- manity; and above all they have given us the Christ, the Saviour of the world! In short, I am an orthodox Chris- tian; and because I am a Christian, I am bound by my faith to seek and help, persuade, and love those who are IO THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. sick, ignorant, unhappy, or perverse, of whatever belief, or unbelief, they may be; and I am particularly solicitous for the "miserable sinners" of our own "persuasion" and of my own infernally proud race! (I use here the tech- nical theological term.) Yet, my sympathy for Islam does not prevent me from deploring their polygamy, their lack of energy, and the unwarranted seclusion of their women. Nor does my consideration for the Hindus prevent my disgust for their filthy fakirs and their obscene symbolism. Nor does my affection for the Jews assuage my ever-increasing sorrow for their unrighteous refusal of rehabilitation to the Great Jew Jesus that which the Christian world most justly claims to-day for a lesser Jew Dreyfus. And it is because I, the most unworthy of His fol- lowers, love Christianity above all other religions, that I am not blind or indifferent to the sins and vices to which Christians are given so often, in flagrant negation of their faith ! It is because they are of my own household, that I sometimes feel prompted to a righteous flagellation of those who barter and sell, (when they do not steal,) not animals in shambles, but men in sorrow, and peoples in peril; covertly or within the sacred precincts of the great Temple of International Diplomacy. Thus, dear readers, I have made my confession, and I start with you on these travels with a clear conscience. EMILIE HYACINTHE LOYSON. CHAPTER I. TO THE LANDS OF ISLAM. WE started on our pilgrimage at 9 o'clock, on a dreary night in December, 1894; and as the train rolled reluctantly out of the station in Paris, there ap- peared in the weird electric light, a group of loving, lugu- brious faces, haloed by a cloud of white waving hands through a sheen of drizzling rain, accompanied by a di- minishing chorus of "Bon voyage!"- -"Good-bye !"- "Adieu!" "Bon retotir!""God bless you?'Au re- voir!""A bientot!" Though propped up in a comfortable corner, like an invalid, I was, however, able to lean from the car window as we passed through the fortifications into the open coun- try, and sing out into the darkness the closing strains of Dr. Monk's great anthem : "JE-RU-SA-LEM ....!" We were rolling far into the night when a dear face bent over me and a low voice asked: "Why do you not sleep?" I could only reply: "I am too happy!" The next day at noon we stood in the bright sunlight, beneath a cerulean sky, in the bow of the fine Transatlan- tique ship which cut the blue waters of the fair Inter- mediate Sea as with sentient joy at having her entire cargo of gratitude concentrated in one soul sailing from Marseilles to the Barbary coast. I had long ardently wished to visit North Africa, but 12 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. all plans and projects failed until kind Providence under- took the matter for me, and I succeeded. But for this I must needs fall ill and be sent to a warm climate for rest and recuperation. But now arose a formidable difficulty; for in my pertinacious idea of reconciling the races, and particularly the Anglo-Saxon and Latin, I had always managed to have both an English and a French Doctor (albeit I take less medicine than kindly council giving the same...) and now they disagreed; one saying I should by all means go to Algiers, and the other that it was not to be thought of, because of the sea, heart trouble, etc., etc. I exonerated both from all responsibility, and being still able to disobey, I took my heart in my own hands, as it leaped with joy at the possibility of going to Africa, and put myself with perfect obedience into the hands of The Other The Great Physician, whose diag- nosis is true, and whose remedies infallible; and who, moreover, always accompanies His patients! I had left home scarcely able to walk, suffering from nervous pros- tration, the effect of a quarter of a century's overwork in a hard but glorious field; but from the sheer prospect of going, I was almost cured before I started! Travel is the panacea for many maladies, and there is no cure more agreeable and, ordinarily, (intelligence and purpose being equal,) none more sure than doing what one longs to do. We arrived in Algiers twenty-four hours after sailing, having already, while still far out at sea, scented the perfume of the orange blossoms and eucalyptus. On entering the house of any one, be he friend or stranger, we must at once seek the face of our host: we went, therefore, first of all, into the great public square, La Place du Gouvernement, which is the rendezvous not only of the native inhabitants but of the people from all parts of the world, to obtain a satisfactory view of the TO THE LANDS OF ISLAM. 13 physiognomy of the city. Arabs predominate, and, in their flowing white costumes of burnouse and turban, and with their quiet good manners, we were captivated at the outset. This beautiful square looks north to the sea, over the magnificent harbor whose shipping, with its multicolored flags and pennons, indicates the extent of its commerce and attractions. On one side stands the great white Mosque, which, strange to say, is built in the form of the Latin cross. "Let us go in," we said and entered without difficulty, permission, or surprise to any one. It was not the regular hour of prayer, but there were, however, many wor- shippers, kneeling or prostrate in the vast white edifice, dim and silent. We, too, knelt and offered up thanks to their Allah, which is our God, for his loving-kindness in, bringing us hither. Then, standing aloof, we observed that all who came in with shoes and sandals removed them, and those of the humbler sort, shodden by nature, first went to the fountain, which is just inside the door at the' bottom of the nave, and observed the ceremonial ablution, bathing face, hands and feet, before stepping upon the carpet which covers the entire floor save the parvis, where strangers stand. Many, also, washed the entire head, giving conscientious care to the mouth, for, with Mos- lems, the lips which praise Jehovah must be clean. The fine large fountain was well adapted, with sparkling water in jets, and a vast circular basin, for this religious rite, which was accomplished with all modesty and entire ob- liviousness of any lookers-on. Then we noticed that amid those clad in soft raiment there were many more clothed in such a manner as would have excluded them from almost any Christian church. ( !) Some were in rags and others in coffee sacks; but withal, there were no "upper," "front," or "back seats," and all took places as they chose 14 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. beside each other in brotherly proximity and attitude. No women were present. Soon thereafter, outside, from the high white minaret, the voice of the muezzin was heard, clear and melodious, out over the city and over the sea, calling for prayer. The mosque was quietly but rap- idly filled with a white cloud of worshippers, all serious and respectful. No talking, nor whispering, nor wander- ing eyes, for the first essential of a Moslem's prayer is absolute concentration of mind and will upon Him to whom all honor and worship is due. The service is liturgic, and with the low, monotone Arabic rhythm, it is very impressive. However, no book is used, or necessary, as all services, as well as all doctrine and discipline, are contained in the Koran ; and this, which is their Bible, is committed to memory from the earliest childhood; and, as their memory is prodigious, they are never at a loss for prayer-book or scriptural text. But, to show that all religious service is from this infallible source, while reciting it, they hold up their two open hands before their faces to represent their open and sacred book. There is a large niche in the eastern wall, looking toward Mecca, from which the Koran is read or recited; and near the middle of the mosque is a large, high pulpit, re- sembling a platform, upon open pillars upon which a score of "ancients" may sit, and beneath which young children are sometimes placed. Though Arabic is an unknown tongue, one cannot fail to be impressed by the serious and religious eloquence of the sermon. I was the only woman present, yet not a look of reproach or surprise, nor curios- ity was given me, but instead, I felt a silent and comforting assurance of religious sympathy and fraternal welcome among this strange people. CHAPTER II. IN THE HOME OF ISLAM. IT was easy to get into the mosque, but how to get into the home and above all into the heart of Islam was quite another thing, and far more difficult. We had let- ters to persons of almost every shade of Christian belief and unbelief; and upon our arrival in Algiers we con- sulted pastors, colonists, doctors, lawyers, professors, governmental functionaries, tradesmen, agriculturists, etc., and met everywhere the same discouragement, ex- pressed almost always in the same terms: "There is nothing to be done with the Mussulmans; but one thing is necessary, let them feel your superiority." This led us to conclude that there was then some claim on their part, and perhaps a danger ; certainly there was an inner ques- tion, and we determined to look into it. The Protestant pastors of different denominations spoke to us in this wise : "We have been here from one to forty years, and have never made a single conversion nor a friend among the native population, nor have we ever had anything to do with them save in a small business way, or as servants. They are, to a man, fortified in their religion, their fatalism is a wall of adamant, and they will neither step out, nor accept anything outside of that stronghold. They are, however, sober, patient and re- spectful, as honest, perhaps, as Christians, and possess a keen sense of justice; not over-laborious, but accept, 1 6 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. without bartering, very small profits or hire. They are serviceable but not servile, feeling themselves on perfect equality, not only among themselves, but with all other men. To be frank with you, you will have your pains for naught if you hope to make friends with them; for you, perfect strangers, cannot expect to do in a few months what we have failed to do in a score or two of years; and, to tell you all the truth, Mussulmans do not like us and have really little confidence in Christians." Then \ve asked : "Have you ever tried to make friends with them without any attempt at proselyting?" "No, never, for w r e knew beforehand that it was per- fectly useless." Of course we could not accept such sophistic argument for fair reasoning, much less for proof, but were more convinced than before that there were, at least, rich fields here for observation and study; and we were more de- termined than ever to push forward into the undiscovered realms of Moslem faith and life, which gave such indu- bitable proof of resistance to attacks or innovations, and so many evidences of vitality and virtue. We ventured occasionally, with our Protestant friends, some arguments: human, historical, and ethnological, as well as Christian. We invariably encountered, however, a sectarian barrier w^hich, if not so magnificent as that of the Moslems', was every whit as adamantine. Happily it was usually so narrow and low that we could step over it without difficulty. We soon found, however, an ice-field forming about us in the sectarian latitude: Roman Catholic and Protes- tant. We were looked upon somewhat as spiritual ad- venturers and interlopers by the "squatter sovereignty," who claimed not only territorial preemption, but Divine Right in their desert and sterile fields; and, moreover, our sympathy with the conquered race of Algeria was IX THE HOME OF ISLAM. I/ looked upon by some as disloyalty to the mcrc-patrie. We had, therefore, in the beginning but little appro- bation or sympathy to encourage us ; and I regret to say that means, which did no honor to those who employed them, were used by some to dissuade and prevent us in our research and endeavors. Our letters were tampered with after their delivery before they reached us,_ our rooms invaded, and private papers filched from our port- folios. Misrepresentation and calumny were considered virtuous arms for underhanded attacks by some who pre- tended to give tone to the ''best society" in this new colony. Our position was such that we had an inside view of the situation, and, with growing financial jealousies, polit- ical animosities, and racial antagonism, we could not but fear trouble in the near future. The w r orld knows of the deplorable anti-Semitic and political riots a year after- wards. Happily the Moslems most wisely abstained from taking any considerable part. In justice I must say here that, in our studies and efforts for reconciliation of parties and races, we found warm sympathy and complete approbation among the true representatives of France and Algeria : eminent men, of whom I may mention the Governor, Monsieur Cambon, whose intelligence and broad humanitarian sympathies enabled him to understand the situation and appreciate our endeavors. He was president of the committee formed in France about this time for building a mosque in Paris for our Moslem subjects and those of other lands who live in or visit that city. But, at the outset, we knew no follower of Mohammed, nor any one through whom we could know one. As far as human help goes, we were evidently in the minority; but being greatly encouraged by all this discouragement,, we decided to put ourselves, and without intermediary, into the hands of the Omnipotent Majority of One, and l8 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. go forward. Later on, when success was evident, sym- pathizers multiplied on every hand. Such is human na- ture everywhere under the sun. On the ninth of January, 1895, an almost summer-like winter day, with roses and oranges in the garden, sweet odors in the air, the deep blue, encouraging sky bend- ing over the beautiful earth and the far-stretching sea, we came down from Mustapha Superieur, where we dwelt, into the highways and byways of the strange white city, amid the still stranger heterogeneous mass of hu- manity to seek the heart of Islam. For the first time in many months I felt strong enough to walk ; and with a deep sense of gratitude came a strong conviction that there was a blessing in store for us. Hour after hour we sauntered through the maze of the old Moorish city, looking for him who was to open the door of the inner life of this mysterious people. The hours wore away, and with them our strength, and my hus- band suggested postponing our search for another time; but I insisted that he would be found that day and, turn- ing down the covered passage of the great bazaar that leads from the Place de la Cathedrale to the Place du Gouvernement, there he sat in the entrance of his tent! And it was gorgeous, his booth, which was made of the multicolored hangings of Oriental carpets and curtains. "Abraham!" I exclaimed in exultation. It was in- deed a magnificent life-picture: head, form, and features of noble mold, a long beard of snow, turban of white and gold, with full flowing costume, all revealing a noble specimen of the pure Arab race. He sat half-turned from the outer world, intent upon a large volume he was read- ing, and which, by its beautiful print and rich binding, we knew to be the Koran. We stopped with intense satis- faction and admiration to contemplate the picture, and also with reluctance to disturb his pious study. He IN THE HOME OF ISLAM. IQ seemed to feel our presence, and turning toward us, gave us, in excellent French, a kind welcome, benevolently ask- ing if he could be of any service to us. "We have not come to purchase," we explained, "but should like to talk with you if you would allow us." Immediately we were led into his fine large booth, which was something between a richly furnished draw- ing-room and a museum of art. As soon as we were seated, he said: '"Pray, consider yourselves perfectly at home, and give me the pleasure of being useful to stran- gers whom God has sent me." Without circumlocution we replied: "You have many rich and beautiful wares here, but what is the best of all and interests us most is the book you are reading; and we should like to talk with you concerning your religion. We are Christians who come from far countries to study the faith and people of Islam." A luminous expression of pleasure passed over his placid face, with just a little surprise. The Arab rarely betrays the least astonishment, for he who is ever wait- ing Eternity is never taken by surprise in human events. Here Pere Hyacinthe took from his pocket a trans- lation of the Koran. Immediately our host inclined and lifted his right hand to his forehead, and then to his heart, which is the Moslem sign of respect and reverence, saying again: "I am most happy! May God be praised for sending you to my door!" Then he clapped his hands and a servant appeared, who, in a few moments, brought us our first cup of deli- cious Turkish coffee. Thus we were duly accredited guests. We conversed for an hour with this follower of Mohammed and found him not only stored in Arabic learning concerning Islam and the Koran, but perfectly conversant with the Ancient Scriptures, which are theirs as well as ours. Nor was he ignorant of the New Testa- 2O THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. ment; above all we found a devout believer in the Living God. We expressed the desire to know more of this grand religion and asked concerning its representatives in Algiers. He immediately said: ''You must go to the mosque in the Kasbah and see the Marabout!" There- upon he at once wrote in French the name and full direc- tions upon his card, saying: "Go when you like, this learned and holy man will give you welcome/' Then we took leave, exchanging cards. Upon his was printed : "Ibrahim Ben-Ali, Member of the Mohammedan Cult Committee, and of the Chamber of Commerce"- He was indeed called "Abraham." We came as strangers we. parted as friends. The next day we went up through the beautiful gar- den of Morengo to the Kasbah, which is the old, high Moorish part of the city, on the brow of which, with a superb outlook over the sea, we found the Mosque of Sidi- Abderrahman, which contains the tomb of the great Ma- rabout (saint) of that name, and is renowned throughout Islam as the most holy place in North Africa a hallowed shrine for pilgrims from near and far. The venerable guardian is Sidi Ali-ben-Hadj-Moussa, a very devout Imam (teacher), and the most learned Sheik in Scrip- tural lore in all that country, and, besides, is considered a saint. His son, a young man of eighteen years, had come, as we were evidently expected, to meet us down the street and conducted us into the Mosque, in the middle of which is the tomb, the shrine of the great Marabout. But be- fore entering he stooped and put on our feet the protecting sandals, as no grain of dust may enter this holy place. The Mosque is not large and appears like a museum, so full is it with gifts of pilgrims and friends : many tall clocks, large waxen tapers, banners, etc. The floor is covered with thick, rich rugs, and close around the shrine IN THE HOME OF ISLAM. 21 sat, or kneeled, many women, enveloped in their white, ample robes the eyes only visible. A young reader of the Koran was reciting from memory the Holy Book. After due reverence paid to the sacred place, our amiable young escort, (who was a theological student preparing to become an Imam and Sheik, following the vocation and perhaps the position of his father,) led us through the old cemetery and the garden which surrounds the Mosque to the residence of the Marabout. There he stood, in the white arched doorway, waiting to receive us, the venerable patriarch, clad in snow-white robe, turban, and even his unshodden feet, with full white beard beneath a pale face a truly white saint ! So strik- ing and radiant was he, that the vision of the great Law- Giver, as he came down from out the cloud of Sinai, flashed through my mind and I involuntarily exclaimed: "Moses!" The son understood me and smiled, as that was really his name, in Arabic : Moussa. We were given patriarchal welcome with low salaams, pressing hands, and reiterated thanks to Allah for bring- ing us to his door ; and then we were led within, across the Moorish court, along corridors, and up a very steep staircase, with curious unequal steps, into the parlor, a long, high room, its walls, ceiling, and curtains all white and immaculate. There were divans, rugs, and cushions of all dimensions and colors, with stacks of old books; at the end of the room a high bed, scarcely seen through the thick white embroidered curtains. Against the walls religious objects were hung, and amid it all the sweet odor of incense from Araby the Blest. There was but one chair, and in spite of all protest, I was obliged to accept the honor; our host and my hus- band having seats on the equally comfortable divan. With two excellent interpreters, a young theological student and an elder son, for the Marabout spoke only 22 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Arabic we speedily fell into our subject: the religion of Mohammed. Our satisfaction was great at having such a rare opportunity of going to the source of Moslem knowledge and truth without the doubtful medium of books and newspapers, to say nothing of traditional er- rors and ignorance. But I must state that refreshments were brought in at once sweet things, and tea perfumed with orange blossoms deftly served by the sons, who, with their father, refused to partake in our presence, saying, with their right hands carried from heart to brow, "We are your servants." Such is Oriental hospitality.* I will give a resume of the two hours' conversation. In reply to the leading question made by Pere Hyacinthe : "What is the exact place, position, and importance given to Christ by the followers of the Prophet, or rather by Mohammed himself?" The venerable Marabout, resting his white-bearded chin for a few moments in his hand in religious reflection, spoke to his eldest son, who immediately handed him the Koran in the original Arabic and its translation by Kasi- merski the best French. Then, with a solemn invocation to Allah, weighing every word, said: "I do not only re-- ply to' this important question to you who are a true ser vant of God; but I must now speak as before the Judg- ment." Then he began : "We know to a certainty that Christ was fortold by our Prophets of the Old Testament, which is your Holy Scriptures as well as ours. This is indisput- able; so we will begin by the birth of the Messiah, for whom all Israel was looking, I can only give you the exact words of the Koran, written by Mohammed who was the inspired Prophet of God." *We justly call everything in Islam "Oriental," even though we speak of Sundown regions; the religious sentiment having greater signification than latitudes or points of compass. IN THE HOME OF ISLAM. 23 I quote textually from the translation which he placed before our eyes, while he repeated the original to the in- terpreters, who also translated directly from the Arabic text, both agreeing. "The angels said to Mary, 'God has chosen thee, He has rendered thee stainless, He has elected thee among all women of the universe/ "(Koran, 3: 37.) "One day the angels said to Mary, 'God announces to thee His Word; He shall be called the Messiah, Jesus, son of Mary ; and He shall be illustrious in this world and in the other, and shall walk with God/ ' (Koran, 3: 40.) "The Messiah, Jesus, son of Mary, is the Apostle of God, and His Word that He sent in unto Mary is a Spirit coming from God." (Koran, 14: 169.) After this careful reading and conscientious transla- tion, he continued: "We believe it is impossible that the Eternal Jehovah, who is a perfect Spirit, and above all human laws, should have a son born of flesh and blood; therefore we do not call him the 'Son of God.' "To think him God is a monstrous error and only ex- cusable by false teaching and ignorance. This assertion is an absolute negation of the first and fundamental com- mandment of the Creator : 'Thou shalt have no other god before me.' If you will study the New Testament care- fully, as I do, you will find that the Lord Jesus never arrogated to himself this august name. There is but One, Only and True God, and Him only can we worship without falling into the unpardonable sin of idolatry. To keep clear of this great sin, we cannot call him even the Son of God, but something more true: 'Essence or Substance of the Soul of God.' ' After this there was a prolonged silence. Then Pere Hyacinthe explained to this venerable seer the Christian interpretation of the Trinity. He replied, shaking his head solemnly: "Ah, that is too complicated for the Ori- 24 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. ental mind; we have only what we need, the simple truth, expressed in direct and simple terms; and then that doc- trine of the Trinity is not of the Gospels it was framed by the Church in those councils when the spirit of Christ was already diminishing or giving way to forms." Then he said, turning to me: "You have a branch of true be- lievers in America who think as we do/' He referred to the followers of Channing, the great New England body of Unitarian Christians; and if they are Christians and we believe they are Islam is certainly a branch of Chris- tianity, as these quotations from the written law of the Koran plainly prove. Moslems may not be orthodox, ac- cording to our ideas, but we are certainly heterodox, ac- cording to theirs! In taking our departure after two hours of intense interest time does not count and visits are long in the Orient the patriarchal teacher said to Pere Hyacinthe: "God has sent you to us, and I shall thank Him all my life! And what makes me rejoice above all is that you do not seek to impose your interpretations of divine truth upon us, any more than we do upon you. We each see as we have been taught, and God, in the great Judgment will judge us ; we can trust Him. We have the same fun- damental faith, the Living and Personal God, and we have the same father, Adam; the same Prophets and Patriarchs, and the same Messiah, which is Jesus, whom you call the Son of God, sent by miracle, to be born of the Holy Virgin ; and we believe in the Final Judgment, with its rewards and punishments. And in this "life we be- lieve in the same loving and merciful God, whom we do not call Father, though he is the Creator of us all, for that seems a too earthly name and presumptuous in us." "And, therefore," rejoined Pere Hyacinthe, as we rose to take leave, "we are brethren!" "Oh yes! from to-day we are true brothers! thanks IN THE HOME OF ISLAM. 25 to the Wise and Merciful Allah !" exclaimed the holy Imam, falling on the neck of Pere Hyacinthe, embracing him, and then aspersing us with the attar of roses as we passed from his door. He accompanied us to his "study," a cell of very small dimensions, adjoining the mosque, and where, to prepare his sermons and writings, he with- draws from the world. It contained many old books _and parchments, and some of more modern times. His writ- ing desk w r as about ten inches high, and his "easy chair" and bed ( for he often passes the night there in prayer and meditation) were only a sheepskin and a pillow. When at last w^e took leave, he escorted us to the outer gate; and as we turned back to wave a last adieu we both ex- claimed : "He is indeed rightly named Moses/' His sons, as Oriental courtesy demands, escorted us a long way through the city. This was the beginning of a series of visits, corres- pondence, and eternal friendship between us. I must give here his words of parting at our last interview, months after, as we were leaving Africa. Pere Hyacinthe had summed up the sorrowful situation of religion in the world by saying: "I sometimes think that God must send us another Prophet to incite us into the true following of His will and laws." The holy man replied, with greater promptitude than was his wont, and with a radiant face : "Ah ! my brother, what you hope for or believe vaguely, we Moslems be- lieve absolutely! that God will send One in His due time who will be the Messiah, and his name will be Aissa (Jesus) !" Thus we entered the heart of Islam. CHAPTER III. A CONFERENCE BY PERE HYACINTHS IN ALGIERS. SOON after our arrival in Algiers, a committee of gentlemen, composed of Christians: Protestant and Catholic, Freethinkers, and Mussulmans, invited Pere Hyacinthe to give a conference (lecture) on the social ques- tions of the day, which he did. Very necessarily religion had its important part, especially that universal religion which underlies all morals, all civilizations, and all true progress; and which includes and implies all worship of the Creator of the Universe, under whatever name or form it may be. Unfortunately Christians take little pains to study the religion of Islam, or to become acquainted with their inner life; and the result is that mutual and most deplorable ignorance, which so easily provokes dis- trust and hatred between the followers of Jesus and those of Mohammed, both of whom have much in common; for both are worshippers of the same God, and both subject to the same Divine Law, as given to the world by Moses. Among the large audience at the lecture a number of turbans were seen, which was unloooked for, as Moslems take little interest and no part in public meetings of any kind, much less in Christian exposition of religion. And what was still more remarkable, some of the chief mem- bers of the Mosque, Sheiks, Imam and Mufti, occupied the front seats. As French is the language of the country, ARAB SCHOOL. A CONFERENCE BY PERE HYACINTHS IN ALGIERS. 2J the orator was well understood. The audience, composed mainly of French colonists who had seldom, if ever, heard a religious discourse outside of the church where they go all too rarely, were enthusiastic, and to the general aston- ishment the Arabs joined in the frequent applause. This was another new departure from the imperturbability of their race, which gives little place for manifestations of emotions of any kind. The speaker had scarcely left the platform before he was surrounded by a number of Arabs, the foremost of whom, a head taller than the others and all were tall and clad in their magnificent costume handed in his card which read thus: "Ali-Ckerif, Commander of the Legion of Honor, Colonel of the French Army, Member of the Council Superior of the Government" Omitting the usual preliminary salutation for health and longevity, he poured forth to the orator the most eloquent and enthu- siastic address of welcome to the shores of Africa, and to its people, the tenor of which may be given in the perora- tion, which was as follows: "We thank Heaven that at last France has sent us a loyal citizen who dares to speak to us of God !" Ali-Cherif is the most notable Arab of Algiers, not only because he is, as his name (Cherif) implies, a des- cendant of the Prophet, but because of his superior intel- ligence and culture, his position and wealth. Besides this, unlike most of his race, he is a French citizen, subject, therefore, to all the laws of France, its rights and its res- ponsibilities. It must be explained here that since the conquest of Algeria by the French, the natives: Arabs, Moors, Ka- byles, and the conglomerate mass of all other African tribes, as well as Jews, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, etc., who are native born residents, are all, necessarily, sub- jects; but citizenship is optional, save to the French born. 28 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Mussulmans form the great majority of the inhabitants, there being almost as many French Moslem subjects in Africa as there are citizens in France, i. e., thirty millions. Once the oath of citizenship is taken, they must of course abide by the French law, the Code Napoleon; while the Moslem subjects are governed by the laws of Mohammed, the Code of the Koran, of which they are most tenacious, living and dying by it. While the Code Napoleon is based upon Roman legislature, the Koran is a faithful ex- ponent of Mosaic Law, added to which are rules and regu- lations by the Prophet concerning all the details of life: civil, religious, public, and private. There is, therefore, little need of legislation; and this banishes politics, rival- ries, and much human ambition; and gives simplicity and unity, as well as peace, to its world. It is the adjustment and reconciliation of the two codes which renders legis- lation and magistrature very difficult in all the French colonies, and all other Christian nations whose colonies contain followers of Mohammed. Though Moslems are a conquered race throughout the different great and small French colonies in Africa and the Protectorate of Tunis, their religion is scrupulously respected and even provided for by the French government: for instance, all that re- lates to worship, to the family, marriage, property, etc., is left entirely in the hands of the Cadi (the Moslem magistrate or judge). Citizenship gives the right of suf- frage to the subject, and prohibits polygamy, which under French law, of course, is bigamy, and is punished with severity, while Moslem subjects who are not citizens- following the patriarchs are free to have from one to four wives if they like. It is with great satisfaction, we state at once, that this great evil the legacy of our com- mon ancestors and patriarchs is rapidly disappearing throughout Islam, and especially with progressive culture and civilization. A CONFERENCE BY PERE HYACINTHE IN ALGIERS. 2Q Ali-Cherif distinguished himself as a soldier, particu- larly during the Franco-Prussian War, on the battle-fields of Alsace and Lorraine, which endears him to the French hearts, and thus he became a hero of loyalty and military prowess on both sides of the Mediterranean. As in the finest landscape shadows have their place, so in human circumstances, however fair and attractive they may be, there is the darker color of lurking shades; and when that circumstance is war the light is lurid and the dark is as black as night, and death, and hell ! So this noble soldier in case of war or revolt among the Arabs, in loyalty to his adopted country, is forced to fight against his own people and shed his own brothers' blood! This position is not approved of by the majority of his fellow believers, for Moslems hold their faith far above all earthly considerations of country, people, race, brother- hood or family. All these are of little account compared to their religion. Thus they naturally look with indiffer- ence, if not suspicion, upon the progress of Christian civili- zation, which is often incivility and moral decadence, and they are, therefore, slow to accept or adapt themselves to modern exigencies. But when once convinced that their religious liberties are not to be infringed upon, nor moral corruption forced upon them, they finally accept the situa- tion, and are true and loyal subjects. Comparatively few, however, become citizens. It required thirty years of determined resistance and bloody warfare for their great Emir, Abd-el-Kader, to accept the sovereignty of France; but when once con- quered he became convinced it was for the benefit of his people, and was ever after not only a willing subject, but a devoted friend and valiant ally to France; and his sons and grand-sons follow him. After this necessary explanation I must relate what came of our interview with the distinguished Arab. 30 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Though our carriage awaited us at the close of Pere Hya- cinthe's conference, Ali-Cherif insisted on driving us home in his, and as we parted he invited us to visit him the next day at his residence, Mustapha Palace. At the hour appointed his carriage was at our door, and it was superb of the best Paris make, with coachman and footman in Arab livery, and drawn, or rather flown, by Arab steeds of purest blood and fleetest feet, their flanks burnished one as with golden bronze, the other with glis- tening silver their long tails sweeping the ground, their manes floating in the breeze like a cloud of silken floss. The Moorish palace stands in the upper circle of the vast amphitheatre of Mustapha Superieur which rises be- hind the city of Algiers. Half way up the steep and winding ascent, amid orange groves, palm trees, and the fragrant eucalyptus, we were met, according to Oriental courtesy, by the forerunner of welcome the scion of the house, the chieftain's only son, followed by a number of tall retainers, in white, flowing Arab costume, putting to shame, in ethics and hygiene, the Paris tailor's art as worn by the son, who had been educated in France. He wore, however, the distinguishing red fez; which, by the way, is far more* serviceable and becoming than our "dress hats." The carriage stopped and the son entered, giving fluent speech of welcome, and we soon flashed under the high archway upon whose keystone is engraven, first in Arab then in French, the name of the dwelling: "The Eagle's Nest,'' and drew up at the foot of a broad stair- case which winds up to the wide marble terrace where the host was waiting to receive us. And what a superb speci- men of the human race is this Arab chieftain! Added to that attractive military bearing, native to the descendants of the proud dwellers of the desert, were the perfect man- ners of the high-bred gentleman of European capitals. He is a man of about sixty years of age, wears a full HIGH CLASS ARAB. A CONFERENCE BY PERE HYACINTHE IN ALGIERS. 3! Arab costume of a military officer, and on his breast the cross of the Legion of Honor. The fabric of his dress was of light blue broad-cloth, full trousers to just below the knee, where they met the red morocco cavalry boots. A short jacket, covered with military trappings, a broad white and gold embroidered scarf about his waist, and a large turban of the same material, completed his costume. All was ease, elegance and amplitude, befitting the soldier and befitting the man. How unlike our soldiers' dress in Europe and America: uncomfortable, ugly, unhealthy, and really injurious to manly demeanor and soldierly dig- nity. The bravest and best formed men, soldiers or civil- ians, look humiliated and victimized in such accouter- ments. After the welcome our host turned to the front of the terrace, unmindful of the works of man in the palace, gar- den and highly cultivated domain; and with arms ex- tended towards the magnificent panorama of earth, sky, and sea, exclaimed: "Behold the glorious work of God!'-' Long we stood on this high aerie ledge, gazing with ad- miration upon the far-stretching coast, from the beautiful harbor of Algiers, which lay at our feet, far to the east- ward where from out the sea, down the Barbary coast, the soft melting lines of the Djurdjura Mountains and the Kabyle Hills, skirting the horizon, rise up into the Atlas Mountains. He pointed out the different places of his- toric events, siege and assault, defeat and victory, which mark the long centuries of warfare between Islam and Christianity, a warfare which so often degenerated into piracy; but which, with the inevitable progress of man- kind, legitimate commerce, civilization and peace, was finally swept away. And nowhere is our beautiful earth more lovely than from the Algerian heights overlooking this great inner sea, upon whose blue waves and classic 32 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. shores the succeeding centuries have. written the whole history of the world! Then he led us into his dwelling, a palace of Moorish architecture. In the midst thereof is a great central court, whose floor, walls, and pillars, which uphold the upper gallery, are of polished white marble. Here grows a mammoth grape vine whose enormous branches extend around the colonnade and along the upper balustrade, and then up, with deft training, form a leafy roof through which, from out the deep blue sky, the yellow sunlight casts chasing flecks of gold over all the polished white be- neath. It was indeed an inner scene of magical beauty. "This," said our host, pointing to the vine, "was planted by my ancestors many generations ago, and it was with the greatest care and difficulty that I was able to preserve it when tearing down the old dwelling and building the new." It was the allegoric and scriptural vine and shows that whatever transformation may come to Islam, it will never consent to having its patriarchal institutions destroyed. They are dearer to the Mussul- man than all modern progress dearer than life itself. Already we begin to feel the formidable resisting forces or Islam, moral and religious. We were ushered into a large drawing-room, which impressed us painfully from an aesthetic point of view, but very agreeably in a patriotic way; for there, though the architecture was of the purest Arab style, with domed ceiling of arabesque tracery, like delicate lace work, and lighted through stained glass which shone like gems within its folds: the furniture was Louis XV. (The very name of that king is always disagreeable to me, and I am loth to hear admiration for anything approaching his "style/') The incongruity was pardonable when our host explained : "Here we are in France, for although I built mv house after the best models of Cordova, I needed for A CONFERENCE BY PERE HYACINTHE IN ALGIERS. 33 my friends of France, who like you come to visit me, a little corner of La Patrie, where they will feel perfectly at home." And furthermore he informed us that this beautiful Moorish mansion was built by an English archi- tect. Thus in the steady development of humanity are multitudes of silent, synthetic forces: art, science, so- cial intercourse, and, above all, true religion. Humanity is autonomous: we need each other, we must be united; and for this, we must first be reconciled. And even here in the Dark Continent, friendly relation, mutual help, with divine motives, are bringing it about. Coffee and sweets were served at once, brought in by a young Kabyle girl with uncovered face. With the quick intelligence of his race our host felt our surprise and ex- plained that the Kabyles had more freedom than the Arabs, and that their very young girls, who sometimes serve in other families, were not constrained to wear veils in the presence of men: downcast eyes and modest mien serve them instead. The young girl put the tray upon a side table near the door and retired at once, never raising her eyes. I had time enough to notice that her lace and hands were tattooed, which is the custom among the Kabyles and Bedouins, but seldom among Arab women. There is surely no accounting for taste, and what seems beautiful to these women is disfiguring and hideous in our eyes. The son did the honors, serving us the inimitable Arab coffee in infinitesimal cups, which, instead of sau- cers, were placed in gold filigree holders; and which, to avoid disaster, required no little attention and dexterity to unaccustomed hands. Arab coffee is sweetened a point, teaspoons are never used, which, by the way, greatly les- sened the danger. Then sweets were handed in discretely by a fair white arm covered with gold and silver bracelets and bangles ; but to whom the arm belonged was not to be 34 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM surmised. The sweets were received by the son at the door which he carefully closed at once. This fair white arm of an unseen woman was my first intimation of the great shut-in kingdom. Neither our host nor his son partook of the refresh- ments ; that would be a breach of courtesy, for, in extend- ing hospitality the Oriental becomes in very fact "your humble servant." And this delicate service was not for- gotten throughout the long and very interesting conver- sation which followed. Another Oriental custom I observed: The son, who was perhaps twenty-three years old, remained standing aloof until his father motioned him to sit, and ventured no word unless spoken to, though giving courteous atten- tion to all that was said. This custom is universal in Is- lam, where, out of respect to their parents, children al- ways remain standing in. their presence until they are com- manded by them to be seated, and only speak when spoken to. (I need not stop here to make comparisons with our "higher" civilization.) Cigarettes were offered but no one smoked, and true Oriental politeness forbids insistence. After an hour's interesting and most instructive con- versation Ali-Cherif arose and said to my husband : "Now Mon Pere, I will show you the garden and grounds, while Madame Loyson will be entertained by the ladies of my family who are very desirous of making her acquaint- ance." My surprise was only equaled by my satisfaction at this unlooked-for realization of my ardent desire to get a glimpse of harem-life, which is not only very difficult for foreign ladies to obtain, but almost impossible among the higher families, for, not only may not strangers ask to see the women of the household, but it is a breach of etiquette even to enquire concerning their health. Harem A CONFERENCE BY PERE HYACINTHS IN ALGIERS. 35 life for strangers is not only a closed and hermetically sealed domain, but it must be a realm ignored. The gentlemen withdrew. O [That this book may not be overlarge, all that relates to Harem Life during our voyages from 1895 to 1901 is reserved for a forthcoming volume. E. H. L.] w CHAPTER IV. FROM ALGIERS TO ORAN. February 18, 1895. E had received urgent invitations to go to Tlem- cen, near the frontier of Morocco. Our hearts were full of anticipated joy as we found ourselves seated in the primitive railway carriage that was to carry us into the Atlas mountains. We stopped for the night midway between Algiers and Oran, at Affreville, in souvenir of Monsignor Affre, Bishop of Paris, after whom the town was named, and who was one of the bishops who ordained Pere Hyacinthe to the priesthood. In 1848 he was shot on the barricades of Paris with an olive branch of peace in his hand. In connection with this I cannot refrain from mentioning the strange fact that another bishop who as- sisted the ordination of Pere Hyacinthe, Monsignor Si- bour, was assassinated at the Altar of Notre Dame de Paris, and still another of his ordaining bishops, and his Ecclesiastical Superior, at the time of his rupture with the Roman Church, Monsignor Darboys. Archbishop of Paris, having been given as hostage, was shot by the communists in 1870. (I have many times asked in trying circumstances, if their martyrdom may not fall to the lot of the priest they loved.) It was with pious remembrance of the great-hearted and peace-loving bishop who gave his life for a cause seemingly lost, but only submerged : Peace among breth- FROM ALGIERS TO ORAN. 37 ren, that we visited the church here dedicated to this noble and patriotic bishop. Our hotel reminded me of the houses in Mexico, of only one story because of the frequency of earth- quakes and constructed, according to Moorish custom, with an inner court, upon which all the doors and windows open; these latter being very small and consisting of but one pane of glass to avoid the heat in summer. This court is about a quarter of a mile around and contains the flower and vegetable gardens. In the centre is a covered w^ell, from which the water is drawn by a sleepy, slow-turning old horse. There were no bells in our rooms to ring, only a "belle" to call ; and the next morning when we needed her, wish- ing our hot water and cafe-au-lait, we were forced to make a charivari with shovel and tongs through the half-opened door; indeed, it had been half-opened all night, as there was no possible way of closing it. We had, however, be- fore retiring for the night, taken the precaution of barri- cading it with the wash-stand and all manner of rattling commodities. At length the maid came slowly across the court, but had little thought of anything save to decorate her abundant red hair with all the pretty flowers she could pluck in the garden, entirely forgetful of hot water. Fi- nally she set the longed-for tray of cafe-au-lait down upon the ground outside, strolled calmly to a closed window, which, owing to the darkness of the room within, served as a mirror, and commenced braiding her burnished hair down her back, as is the fashion with women of this coun- try. Suddenly the shovel and tongs went clattering out against the wheel-house! The poor old horse came to a dead halt and actually lifted one ear in our direction, then slowly dropped his head and fell into a slumber (dream- less, alas! of racial ancestry) in which we left him an hour afterwards, as we hurried to the train. But in justice to 38 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM the minx of a maid, I must say that the discordant music we created with our impromptu gong brought her to us at once with a half-frightened air, saying, with her hand coquettishly placed on her palpitating heart, "Oh, I'm so glad! I thought it was an earthquake!" "But the coffee! the coffee!" we cried, "for the train will not wait for us over an hour or two." I must add, also, that as we hurried across the court with our bags and bundles, rushing to the station, she came flitting towards us with the hot water, whose absence we had long forgotten. We gave her a bonne-main and our pardon also, for the way she smiled at the young dandy of a garcon explained all; and we are bound to be very indul- gent to a pair of young simpletons in love. Another long delightful day's ride among the barren hills, up through the sublime monotony of the high plateau of the Atlas mountains,, which was broken only now and then in the most unexpected places, and sometimes on the most perilous peaks, by the sudden appearance of a lone figure, a clear cut silhouette of an Arab shepherd, draped in voluminous dusky white; while here and there in the crevices flocks of browsing goats might be seen. If the shepherd be old and contemplative, he will scarcely turn his head to see the train go by; if young, he may come to look at us as we pass, and perhaps offer us some wild asparagus, the only marketable product of this unculti- vated soil. And the children! What swarms of them fly down to sell a few little flowers, or to ask for a backsheesh, Arabs never ask for money, their dignity does not permit this, but, as presents are the meet recompense for hospitality among them, extending the hands and asking for back- sheesh simply means, and with something of justice in it as well as a pledge of friendliness or good faith: "You pass through our country, you visit us, please give us a FROM ALGIERS TO ORAN. 39 present." When a penny is tossed from the carriage win- dow the squabble for it is as picturesque as it is good- natured; indeed the Arabs, though not given to hilarity, are gentle and good-tempered. Concerning the wild asparagus which is offered along the route by the poor natives, whose palm is seldom cov- ered with even a copper coin, the price, six sous, for a good-sized bunch, sufficient for two persons, is certainly ridiculously small ; and yet we saw well-dressed Christian ladies, living in adjoining towns, desirous of taking home a dainty for the dinner table, barter and bargain sou by sou, all the time the train stopped and finally succeed in carrying off the coveted prize for three sous, triumph- antly showing their bargains to their fellow-travellers. But to do the lady justice, I feel sure that she, being rich, would willingly put ten sous into the collection the fol- lowing Sunday in aid of the mission for converting the Moslems to Christianity, As the train moved away, we saw the old Arab who had been worsted in the transaction, walking quietly toward the village, looking sadly yet gladly at the three sous in his shrivelled palm, the result perhaps of a whole day's searching in the barren mountains. But I believe his pride was less in the possession of the money than at having entered into "commercial relations" with the great progressive world from which, however, save in these small business transactions, he holds himself respectfully and conscientiously aloof. For what can money bring these men of the mountain, or dwellers in the desert? There is nothing to buy and little needed, save the funda- mental elements of sustenance, bread and water, and Allah sends them both, almost without labor. There is no "struggle for life" as with us, only endurance; and, save in drought and famine, their wants are supplied, including length of days. "Islam" means resignation. 40 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. And who are the happier? they without money, or we with our gold? Their happiness no money can buy, while we barter and venture ours, and often only for the sake of venture and barter. Who are the wiser? Yet their little pieces of copper are not disdained, for after a certain quantity has been collected a pretty, gay- colored piece of cloth will be bought in the town for the wife, or a bangle, a necklace, or an anklet, for a bride. Sometimes, after a given number of thousands are col- lected, which may require almost his lifetime, unless flocks are exchanged, the man will purchase for himself that which is the one great desire of the Arab's life: a thor- oughbred horse, child of the desert like himself. Mounted upon his steed, pur sang, the Arab is at the summit of human dignity and earthly happiness. At the next station another Christian attempted to make vicarious amends, for his countrywoman's cupidity by buying up all the asparagus which the young men of- fered, and his wife by setting up in business a very old Arab the establishment costing about one franc. At another station, when a whole band of the "cun- ningest" little half-naked children were drawn up in line, singing, or rather muttering a little trembling refrain in the drollest manner conceivable, accompanied with a rhythmic quaking of their bodies, the Christian traveller gave them a sou apiece and bade the dragoman explain to them that it was always better to earn money by singing or by selling flowers and asparagus, or even pretty peb- bles, than to get it by asking for backsheesh. They all understood and promised to follow his counsel. And how they "cut" for the mountains as soon as the train started ! Following them with our glass, we could descry, far away among the foot-hills, hidden within the gray thorn bush, the tents of their village, to which these little children carried surprise and happiness for many days. ^FROM ALGIERS TO ORAN. 4! The stars had long been out, making the African night almost day, when we arrived at Oran. Our friend, Dr. L., surgeon in the French army stationed there, met us at the train, looking like a ghost in the white moonlight. He asked us about our impressions of Africa, and at our enthusiastic reply exclaimed with something of pity in the shrug of his shoulders: "O Paris! My poor little wife and I are dying to get back to Paris!" There is indeed no accounting for tastes. Oran. Negro Village. Grand Mufti. Conference. (Arrived in Oran, February 19, 1895.) This old Moorish city is full of history written in stones, archives, and races. It was alternately the great stronghold of Moors, Turks, and Spaniards, during cen- turies of expeditions, invasion, warfare, and piracies. Its physiognomy to-day is a composite: Moorish, Spanish, and European, the foreign population predominating over the native, making the aspect of the city much less pic- turesque, to say nothing of the value of its primitive race. The result of this infinite crossing is certainly not in this present generation at Nature's best. The pure Arab or Moorish type is unfortunately almost obliterated among this mottled mixture from every African latitude with that of other continents. There is, however, a redeeming quality: an immense activity; and this alone, with moral and intellectual culture, will do much to correct the mis- takes of unwise or forced "selection." Oran is an important commercial port, and my heart leapt with native joy at seeing my dear old flag, the Stars and Stripes, floating at the ship's mast among those from all other parts of the world; and one day, when we saw the United States warship "Chicago," of the White Squad- ron, rounding proudly out of this peaceful port, we waved 42 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. her good-bye and Godspeed, as she steamed eastward on her mission of peace in this fair sea and its adjacent waters up through the crystal ^gean blue into the Bos- phorus. May Heaven always accompany our white fleets on their errands of mercy! There are in Oran, however, some fine specimens of men, women, and children. The most striking among the women are Jewesses and Andalusians; and behind the veil, in harem life, I saw some of great beauty. In the outside world, the world of the street, flaunting Paris fashions hold high their ridiculous pretensions, which are happily of no account to the daughters of Rachel in their rich brocades of silk and gold, and are utterly distasteful to the classical, white draped daughters of Kadisha.* The daughters of Mary, alas! have wandered away from the following of the modest Maid of Bethlehem, in whose name dwells all that is lovely, simple, and holy, and in the vain reflection of their mirrors they have lost the re- flection of her glory. The entire population shows quick intelligence, though education and culture have been deplorably neglected. Throughout the country, however, the present French government spares neither pains nor money in its schools and colleges, which rank high. The town has five distinct quarters: the Moorish, Old Spanish, Jewish, Negro, and Modern European. One of the most interesting in our ethnological researches was the Negro Village, a large suburban town, where we found the finest pure-blooded negroes we had ever seen. Superb in human build are those tall, well-formed black men, swathed in white, with their unblemished teeth of ivory; and with their respectful demeanor, which re- veals nothing of savagery, but the dignity of nature. It was market day, but there was no ribaldry, no quarrelling, * Wife of Mohammed. FROM ALGIERS TO ORAN. 43 no drunkenness, for all being Mussulmans, no wine or in- toxicating beverage is used nothing but water and, as a luxury, a tiny cup of Arab coffee. We noticed that to the necks and arms of many were attached curious little amulets. When we asked what they contained some replied: "cri-cri,"* and others told us that theirs contained texts from the Koran, and most of them gave us to understand that they were talismans against sickness and harm. Some devout Moslems wore both the "cri-cri" and the Koran, as devout Catholics often wear medals or supposed relics of saints, only they do not, I regret to say, often add the texts of the Scriptures. So these simple and credulous people from the unen- lightened regions of the Dark Continent have brought to the borders of Christian civilization, and in an unreason- ing way have attached their fetish to righteous maxims and divine truth. And, as eventually the diviner and truer will carry the day and races, we did not quarrel with them about the superstition, but took pains to tell them that we believed the text from the Koran was of more value than the "cri-cri," as it proclaimed God, while the fetish never spoke of Him. They all agreed with us, be- ing easily persuaded of self-evident truths, and free from our prejudices, which are often narrower and more inflexible than their superstitions. We, of the Great White Continents, we, also, have our fetish, keeping com- pany with the Gospel; and if God bears with us who ought to know better, may we not bear with these poor ignorant negroes who know nothing better ? Two things struck us with amusement here among the humblest and most primitive peoples we have so far met, viz., the absence of curiosity on the part -of the wo- men, and the absolute respect for women on the part of the men. This is not the result of any fetish, but of the * The talisman of the savages in Central Africa. /] /| THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. teaching and assiduous inculcations of the Koran from generation to generation of charity and chastity. We saw many women here, sitting in the doorways of their cabins and tents, or going about the streets, yet scarcely turned an eye toward us. No Mussulman, be he high- bred Arab or low-born negro, when passing a woman in the street ever looks at her, while his attitude shows im- plicitly that in thus appearing unconscious of her pres- ence, he does not ignore it, but testifies, by his averted gaze, the greatest respect. For any man, even a relative, to address a woman in the street, except from absolute necessity to offer her help, would be eminent ill-breeding. Many of the so-thought gentlemen of our civilized capitals, whose manner of looking at women in the street amounts to positive insult, might learn a lesson of native politeness and genuine respect in this humble African vil- lage ; and women who parade the great boulevards of our cities, simply to attract attention, how unwomanly and unrefined are they compared to those clean, white-robed negresses, who shrink so sensitively from the public gaze ! I quite understand their tenacity for covering their faces in the streets, especially in a mixed population of all sorts of culture and religion; and I know of refined European ladies living in these Moslem cities, who avail themselves at times of this modest custom and secluding veil to escape the inquisitive gaze of their own people ! Mount Mourdjadic, rising steep to nearly 2000 feet, is a grand bulwark against invaders from .the sea or ma- rauders from the land, with its formidable fortress of Santa Cruz, its Christian chapel, and above them all the Moslem dome, or Koubba, a mosque-like holy tomb. On clear days the coast of Spain, between Algeria and Car- thagenia, is seen, and optic signals can be used from con- tinent to continent. The panorama of earth and sea from this height is magnificent. But whether the days are FROM ALGIERS TO ORAN. 45 clear or cloudy, just across the straits the Christians' guns of Gibraltar are always primed and ready for fight. . Our first visit was to the Grand Mufti. (Mufti is equivalent to our Bishop, Grand Mufti to our Arch- bishop.) It was evident that we were expected, for News seems to travel on the wings of the wind in Moslem lands, and we were received with evident satisfaction. A glance sufficed to show us he was a remarkable man. Ali-Ben- Abderrahman is about forty years of age, of medium height, slender proportions, and delicate lineaments. His head, face, and hands, with the blue veins well defined be- neath the wax-like skin, are perfect; the whole man bear- ing the unmistakable stamp which marks the highly in- telligent and devout nature. One mark of distinction and appreciation of the French government was shown by the Cross of the Legion of Honor on his breast. In manners he is reserved though courteous. There is no cant with Moslems and much less triviality. It is, per- haps, a far-fetched reason for my admiration for this grand race that, in my involuntary predisposition to eth- nological analogy, I have remarked that the Arab resem- bles the best type of our New Englander in whose veins now, alone, flows pure English blood, (and because of this I may be pardoned in saying, par parenthese, their high moral and religious qualities, united to indomitable energy, have made the Anglo-Saxon race in America the foremost people in the world). Indeed, I should not have been surprised if the Grand Mufti of Oran had addressed me in perfect English, saying: "I hope you have been quite well since I last met you in Boston."- Unfortunately he spoke only Arabic, but his son-in-law was an excellent interpreter, and our conversation was of our usual themes : history, races, and religions. The erudition of the Grand Mufti was remarkable, as was also his knowledge of the world, though he had travelled little, and never out of 46 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Africa. We told him of the project of building a mosque in Paris, with a Moslem college, and expressed our hopes of seeing him there some day. He replied that it was not impossible. Our host showed us the mosque and told us its history, and in going about we could not help observing in what veneration he is held by the people. He seemed, however, annoyed by the excess of it, as everywhere he went they kissed his hand or his garments; and Christians, too, were most profound in their respect for one whom they knew to be a great savant, and whom they deem a holy man. Wherever we find Christians we find croakers, pes- simists, and infidels, so we were told by some of them that a religious discourse in such a city as Oran, with its mixed, indifferent population, would be a failure. 'But Pere Hyacinthe had been invited to speak there, and as he is not easily deterred from doing his duty, he. gave the discourse, under the auspices of the Mayor, which was received with unexpected and unanimous enthusiasm. We found the population which had a reputation for ab- solute indifference to religion and the Christian part is almost totally Roman Catholic most eager to hear that subject treated. The women of the city frequent the mass on Sundays, and the children attend catechism; but the men are generally indifferent. Here as elsewhere, among the higher classes, indifference, negation, and hostility to all religion are very common, and are often considered to be an indication of superior intelligence, progress, science, and liberty. But when, in a not over- distant future, Science and Religion prove themselves to be what they really are twin sisters this will be changed, and the Great First Cause which we call "God" will be recognised in all things, and finally it will be ac- knowledged and proclaimed by all men. FROM ALGIERS TO ORAN. 47 The straightforward speaking of divine truth is sure to bear fruit; and after hearing the conference, a number of the oldest baptized inhabitants acknowledged that the "sermon" of Pere Hyacinthe was the first they had ever heard! Some of them were so enthusiastic that they begged him to preach "that Gospel" again, and offered him every possible inducement to settle with them ; groups of men formed about wherever he went, and some ran after him in the streets crying : "Vous etes noire sauveur, restez avec nous!" (You are a saviour, do remain with us!) Others who had never in their lives made a right- eous confession of sin, wished, as they expressed it, to make "a clean breast of it once in their lives before they died," and begged him to hear their confession. This proves that man is, after all, a religious animal. CHAPTER V. A MOONLIGHT NIGHT IN THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. I LOVE soft breezes, and sweet odors, and fading lines, and twilight, and moonlight, and all lovely and beau- tiful things, which move the senses to their higher be- hests, opening the door to the infinite regions of the soul. But as I am still in the flesh with its incumbent duties and with the impending judgment before me, I am conscience- bound to say that I love humanity more than aught else on earth. As to worship, I adore only the unique and personal God; but I have a cult for all the manifestations of the Great First Cause, especially in nature, and am more interested in persons than in places; and am more preoccupied with the principles of Divine Government of this world than in its politics or personalities. So it is that journeying through these Atlas Mountains with their green, odorous valleys, and across their high plateaux, with their sublime gray nudity and their ever-changing horizons, and never-changing ethereal atmosphere, I fell into long precious hours of meditation, with deep spiritual impressions, frequent object-lessons, with some rare and natural pictures hung up for eternity on the walls of psy- chological memory. One was this: on a resplendent night, while studying from our railway carriage window the constellations which we had never beheld in such radiant splendor, we noticed, as the hours wore away, that they were growing A MOONLIGHT NIGHT IN THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. 49 pale and were slowly withdrawing with profound, retiring reverence, within the mysterious canopy of the unfathom- able firmament, at the approach of greater majesty. The Queen of Night was coming up the horizon in her full Oriental splendor! We turned towards the East, and there, midway to the zenith, poised on the darkling heights of an intermediate range of the Atlas Mountains, we saw a moving object, within the full moon's disk: a tall draped figure with outstretched arms. The train was slacking speed and soon stood still. The next instant my feet were on the earth, and I was standing in the effulgent glory. Though my vestments were dark, they seemed white from the reflected moon-beams. All was hushed, and I stood transfixed, transfigured, in the weird whiteness and the great silence. No object was to be seen, save one lone cy- press tree on a distant hill, a natural minaret pointing toward Allah. After the long continued noise of the train the silence was almost appalling. Our fellow-travellers were quiet, all seemingly asleep; even the locomotive had stopped its hard breathing and seemed entering into conscious repose. While I myself almost ceased to breathe in the ecstatic moment, there came softly and with winning cadence, a far-off voice from the mountain heights, as from out a high invisible minaret which pointed up toward the Pleiades, far, far above the illumi- nated dome of this mighty midnight cathedral which spanned the universe with all its worlds of light, con- verging to the undiscovered centre where Jehovah dwells. Man builds and rebuilds his temples for a day awhile to pray; God builds but one, the everlasting dome that compasses eternity: No minaret points thereup, for He is highest ; No altar, for the consummated sacrifice is there: 5 the Personal and Living God; w r hile at the same time we will develop and extend, under various forms, the glories of one civilisation: the Franco-Mussulman. A Dieu, et au revoir! HYACINTHE LOYSON. CHAPTER XII. MALTA. WE left Tunis with great reluctance but the oft delayed departure had arrived at last, and as we sailed before Carthage in the opaline waves, out into the broad blue sea, we had but the one persistent con- solation: we were sailing Eastward! One subject occupied our thoughts above all others as, twenty-four hours later, we skirted the shores of Malta ; and it was not that great modern steamer in which we sailed, or anything therein, but that little barge, which, nearly two thousand years ago, brought into an inlet here, the Great Apostle of the Gentiles. And one desire pos- sessed us: to stand upon the spot where St. Paul landed out of the great storm, after the long fast and shipwreck, as he went to Rome : to Rome to be tried and beheaded ! And what a change between this Christian land of formidable fortifications all terraced with cannon and filled with soldiers, and the land of Islam which we had just left ! No .white-draped Arabs, but Oh ! so many black- robed priests! and English soldiers, with the picturesque Highland kilts cut into plaid pantaloons. ... (Ministers of war, defend us !) The first day we visited the city, and the second we drove two hours over the stony island to the coast, where history marks the spot we sought. With the Sacred Story open in our hands we approached the place with deep emo- MALTA. 121 tion. Everything became interesting: the conformation of the hills, the indenture of the shore, the rocks and earth where he had stood The Grand Pilgrim Prisoner of the Gospel! And now we came to the lone house near the innermost bend of the. inlet, where we hoped to find pre- cious indications of the sacred place. Our feelings may perhaps be imagined certainly we cannot express them when we read painted in large English letters across the wayside inn, these words: This is the last chance to get your grog. Alas! for the Greater Island! Christian England! It were far easier for St. Paul to shake off the viper that stung his hand in this little cove at Malta, than for you to get rid of that viper which you carry into every port where your ships cast anchor, stinging the hearts of the people throughout the earth: the venomous adder of alcohol! Under the pretext of "free trade" you are the prime factor in sending the human race to hideous destruction through the unquenchable fire of lustful appetites! Sorry it is that you are not alone in this nefarious traffic: America, Holland, and other leading Christian nations and also the smaller ones, alike ambitious, are with you. In the finest hotel in Malta we counted 21 advertisements of the universal poison: Old Irish and Scotch whiskies, gin, Ja- maica rum, Russian eau-de-vie, American bitters, brandy, French cognac, etc., etc. I write this with sorrow and shame for I belong to three of these foremost races. But England is the greatest sinner, for she has the monopoly of transportation, and would have that of Christianity. . . With her right hand she gives to all the nations of the earth the Bible, the Law of Eternal Life, which some poor savages burn; with her left and under hand she gives the deadly poisons of alcohol and opium, which burn and destroy the hearts and souls of many who are and who are not savages .... and with her wide-spread army another 122 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. still more damning poison, called the "nameless" for their ruin, destruction, death ! In justice we must say, she is not the major culpable in the other poison, which stupe- fies conscience, strangles the affections, and kills faith: nicotine. Build up your battlements, Great, Old England! send out your fleets to conquer, surprise, or deceive! Unfurl your flag around the world ! What boots it all, with that adder at your heart? Beware, lest you deceive yourself oh, my people! There is a reckoning day in store for the nations! The Maltese are a mixed race of Spanish, Portugese, Arabs, and Europeans, and the "crossing"- which has not been "selection" but imposition has not produced happy or beautiful results. (Darwin would have wept had he ever visited Malta!) But it is alcohol, with the other vices just named, more than all else, which has destroyed the beauty of the people. Their religion: the Roman, arch-Roman, is certainly not that which Paul car- ried to Rome. The Noble Order of the Knights of Malta is become the Degenerate Order of Bigots ! It seems that the presence of the married monk and his wife had been noised about, and the advisability of our visiting the churches was discussed not by us, but by others who feared the people. We were duly warned of the fanaticism of the priests, and the danger. Of course we visited the churches at once not only to see if there was really any danger but because therein was some of the most valuable history of the Knight Templars; and, as it was Sunday, we remained to service, occupying places in the midle of the fine old cathedral. We had no difficulty in perceiving, from the first, that our presence was re- marked. Of all the clergy in the long procession that passed, not one failed to give us a look, and a long and a strong one, but not one of hostility ; for it is not the priests MALTA. 123 who are opposed to sacerdotal marriage, nor even the bishops; but the unrighteous, ecclesiastico-political power back of them, whose servile, sinning tools they are, alas! too often; and who are the sorrowfullest caste of men on the face of this beautiful earth ! When the service was ended, we noticed that inside the cathedral, near the door, about two hundred curious- and anxious persons lingered to see the outcome. We went to the sacristy and asked for the custodian to show us the church, and explain its historical stones and pictures. Forthwith, the best guide was sent for, who showed us the whole edifice, with intelligence and great politeness. Still they lingered, many of those curious natives and some followed us even to the door of our hotel with ir- repressible curiosity, but with perfect respect. Thus in the most bigoted countries as well as in France and other Latin countries, the clergy is with us. But, of course, they dare not yet speak out. Another century will see this unrighteous and unholy yoke taken from the neck of the entire Christian clergy East and West! or the Churches will exist only in dead letter ! Our maitre d' hot el was a man of importance in the town, and waylaying us discreetly in the corridor as we went down to dinner that evening, told us that the whole town was excited, and that everybody thought that the best thing priests could do would be to marry! and that one of the vicars of the cathedral had told them that very afternoon, as we came out ofthe church, that the Apostles themselves were married! "Just think of it!" said he. And then to show that he was a man of Scriptural learn- ing as well as of civic consequence joining his hands in a very devotional manner for he was a very pious Roman Catholic he said very solemnly : "Who knows if St. Paul himself was not married when he came to these shores? Who knows?" 124 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Just then Sir William and Lady Priestly old friends from London came in to greet us, offering felicitations for the great event of the day: "Catholic Reform, which not only walks openly in the streets of the most Roman city of the seas, but is received with sympathy in its church!" etc., etc., thus putting a stop to this Biblical exegesis of our head-waiter. We attended the English church. The services and the sermon were good. The Rector paid us a visit and told us much of the priest-ridden people. To judge from the flocks of priests, we should say they numbered half the population. Commercial pursuits were limited, and there was little or no manufacture, so but one choice was offered to young men between the priesthood and coal-heaving: supplying the fleets which put in here for fuel. As fathers and mothers are anxious (all the world over) for the "ad- vancement" of their sons, the Church here is always over- stocked by native priests, while most of the coal-heaving is done by foreigners! which leaves a residue of not the most desirable residents. We drove about the island rather more than we cared for, to pass the long three days which kept us from sailing farther eastward. One afternoon we held a memorable conversation with an English clergyman who told us he was "dying to get away from the place." From his sickly appearance and from what he told us in the following con- versation, we felt conscience-clear in advising him to leave as soon as possible. "How long have you been here?" we asked. "Nearly twenty years, and it's quite enough," was the reply, "I am determined to return to England !" "But you have had a fine opportunity," we ventured to say, "among these poor, ignorant people." "Oh," he replied sharply, "I have nothing to do with MALTA. 125 these people here nothing whatever, and not much can be done with the English soldiers." "But you must have made friends, especially among the native clergy." "Not a single friend! As to the priests, I never tried to make their acquaintance!" "But why not?" we asked somewhat in surprise. "The're too dirty!" he answered sharply. We were too stunned to reply for a moment, but only gazed into the face of this minister of the Gospel, and it was a fine one. He was, also, scrupulously dressed, and wore an irreproachable round white linen collar .... evi- dently a good "Churchman." After a somewhat embarrassing silence, I could not refrain from saying, and, I think with some emphasis: "But this is just what Christ came for! to cleanse dirty people! that's just what Christian baptism means! you might at least have taught them the use of an English "tub" as you have much water here, and then you have ample opportunities for the gentlemanly sport of swim- ming." The minister of the Gospel looked over and beyond me, a good way out; as if he wanted to sight a sail at sea; and there was a problem unsolved in his eye something of stoicism and despair, and he waited for us to say good- bye. But he did not wait long. And I was very sorry for him: almost more sorry for him than for those poor, ig- norant, but well-meaning victims whom he despised. Reflection: The Christian rum and whiskey-sellers of Malta, and other places we have visited in benighted coun- tries, do a heavy missionary work, and O so many converts and proselytes ! They are not afraid of dirty people ! * * * On the third day, as we sailed out of this stupendous fort with an odor of gunpowder in the peaceful air and 126 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. swarming black-robed priests everywhere an ejaculation like this went up from my sick heart: "O, Spirit of St. Paul! if thou art indeed a messenger of the Saviour of men, pass again by this island in going to or from Rome!" CHAPTER XIII. FROM MALTA TO ALEXANDRIA IN A HURRICANE. HHHEN we took ship from Malta to Alexandria. And JL we were so eager to get eastward that we did not hesitate to take the first passable vessel that left the port, the "Agia Sofia" (St. Sophia). She had a good Scotch captain, and as there was more merchandise than man- kind aboard, we had the choice of cabins, being the only first class passengers. We were content until well out at sea, when a hurri- cane swept down from the Adriatic and took us a-broad- side. Then we were miserable; in French which is the vernacular of the party it was I'enfer. . . . (and enfer means "hell"). , Oh! how we longed to be third class, or steerage anybody or anything amidships, for (as often happens in life) first in class, we were last in comforts being in the stern of the ship! I have crossed the Atlantic many times, sailed oft in the Mediterranean, and have been on the rocks of New- foundland, beating for life in the surf but never expe- rienced such rolling, and tossing, and pitching as this! Indeed there was no method in it whatever ! The "Great Eastern/' in which I once sailed, took the palm for roll- ing, for she was so methodic and sure, that when she did roll and she did whenever she got into the trough of the sea you had time to steady yourself and even to collect your near-at-hand belongings besides .composing your 128 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. mind, feeling quite sure that though she went clean over, she would come up sure, steadily, and on time, on the other side keeping her record conscientiously. But for celerity of action and prompt results, she would be left in the lurch of the other hemispere by our little ship weathering a hurricane in the confluence of the Adriatic and the Mediterranean ! My husband suffered more than I and during the fiercest of the tempest required several stout stewards to keep him within the limits of his berth refusing to be bound, as was suggested by the captain. "No," he cried seriously, "I will not be bound! If I die, I will die free!" And the kind captain, who managed to leave the helm to look down into our enfer for a moment, once in the day and twice in the night, begged us in loud hoarse accents to "hold on firm !" saying in a comforting way, "We've no surgeon aboard, and I wouldn't like to land you with all your bones in your body broke!" The Pere, being a Frenchman and, therefore, always polite, answered back in quick, stentorian tones, "Merci!" while I, from my cabin just opposite, faintly echoed, "Mercy!" So 'worn and exhausted was I after four, long, dread- ful days and still more dreadful nights of knocking about from bunk to berth, seasickness, and danger, with every imaginable discomfort, that when, at last, Alexandria was sighted away down the horizon, my enthusiasm for travel even for the Orient was far below its normal point. Indeed it was decided between us before we left the ship, that we would go home by land on foot even taking ten years to do it, if necessary; so demoralising is sea- sickness, with a hurricane added !* * Jan. 1903. We see by the newspapers and therefore it must be true- that a distinguished diplomat, who often carries the trick of nations ovef wide tumultuous seas, and who always suffered greatly from seasickness, has discovered a sure remedy : In a recent voyage, when in despair, and, as he thought, perhaps, near death he determined to take a last look of him self in a mirror. The cure was instantaneous, and he strongly recommend it. .. .This is true and has a scientific reason in the brain. FROM MALTA TO ALEXANDRIA. Slowly we beat into port, and were at last behind the immense break-water. I was dragged on deck, and as I tried to walk I found my feet unresponsive to my will, and I asked with dismay if all my hard-gained strength had indeed failed me. I only longed to leave the ship and sea forever. ALEXANDRIA ! But where was the magnificent city which once ruled the world with her commerce, her warfare, and her learn- ing? There was nothing before us but a low shore-line, scarcely distinguishable in the dull grey t\vilight. Sic transit gloria nmndi. Two willing sailors carried me to the bow of the ship where I wished to be left alone, and then, as we do when earth has fallen away from our footing, and there is noth- ing else to do but to cry for help from Above from whence alone comes succor I lifted up my heart and stretched out my arms in the dark toward where I knew it lay, that mys- terious land of Egypt ! toward that city where, in the dim centuries, had dwelt my great patronue St. Catherine, who had her bones broken on the wheel that I might have strength to have mine broken in a ship, and my heart also, if need be, for the faith for which she died : that magnifi- cent city, where, still further back in the centuries, dwelt that other woman, otherwise great, Cleopatra ; where she wiled her Roman invaders, Pompey and Antony, to their destruction ! Alexandria! City of the great conqueror! who has left his name forever here where meet the sea, the desert, and the Nile! And still back in the undiscovered centuries, there, in that low dark line of land, borne down by the heavy lowering sky into the tormented sea -there is the classic land of the Sphinx the Eternal Enigma of Life or Death! There is the arch-holy country where Divine Unitv was first revealed to man, and where ruled the I3O THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. greatest dynasty of kings the earth has ever known ; where dwelt a strange people which has, in the midst of such magnificence as the world has nowhere else produced, re- vealed the first unmistakable groping after the Mono- theistic Idea, which Moses, long centuries after, pro- claimed from Sinai: the True and Only God! There it lay, the land of the Pharaohs ! EGYPT ! The sojourning place of Israel, the birth-place of the great Expounder of Divine Law and finally, the land of retreat and safety of the Little Child who was the Saviour of the World ! O Egypt ! land of the lost ! land of darkness ! land of death ! I love thee ! for thou hast held hidden in thy bosom the Supreme Revelation and the Hope of the World! As I still stood looking out over the turbid waves into the sombre present and the ominous future, I became aware of the yielding of the darkness in the eastern sky, and soon the broad disk of a deep yellow, Oriental moon apeared, rising rapidly and fuller, and then leaping into the dark Egyptian blue-black night! An ineffable thrill transpierced my whole being, and a new life leapt into my heart! Such was the infinite skill of the Good Physi- cian who attends me through all my journeys and through all my life, that even before my feet touched the earth, all discomfort, sickness and danger were forgotten, and we were infinitely happy! Now, in the distance a serpent of electric light leaped along the shore, showing that modern science was work- ing here ; and then, through its mingled flashes with moon and waning day, we descried the only landmark of the past Pompey's Pillar. And when at last, in the super- natural twilight, we reached our mooring, and beheld the group of strange men awaiting us ; and when colors began to appear, and we discerned the Egyptian fellahs, clothed in long white tunics, and then the well-known red- jackets, across whose breast we read "Cook & Sons," we were in POMPEV'S PILLAR AND MOSLEM CEMETERY,, ALEXANDRIA. FROM MALTA TO ALEXANDRIA. the nineteenth century again! And we were soon relieved of all worldly possessions and all earthly cares. We de- scended that plank with wings to our feet, and while it was yet evening we were settled in the comfortable Hotel Abbat, kept by a courteous Frenchman giving thanks for the delicious French dinner before us, and for every- thing else ! Months afterwards, on the Bosphorus, we met the good captain of the ship which had brought us safely to port in Alexandria. He seemed like a life-long friend, and assured us that in all his sailing that was the most terrible storm he had ever encountered. And as we sailed past the spent-looking "Agia Sofia," which lay at the mouth of the Golden Horn, we saluted her with respect, though she did not deserve it altogether. CHAPTER XIV. FROM ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO. BEING anxious to get away from the sea air, which is usually deleterious for the victim of neurasthenia, we took the train the next afternoon for Cairo, leaving Alexandria, the ancient city and the modern people, for our return. I am fond of railway travelling, and am always better pleased to start than to stop ; but I think I was never more pleased to get into a train than into that one. The point de depart and the point d'arrivee w r ere equally agreeable. If on sea we take first class, hoping to get the best of it- em the railway we often take the second, (except in Amer- ica, where nothing is second class. . . .) which offers, be- side economy, the great advantage of seeing the people of the country. And what admirable company we had from Alexandria mostly Mohammedans and a lovely family of Jewesses. These latter spoke French, English, and Italian, and were most polite and kind adjusting our bundles and daintily peeling oranges for us, while the Arabs offered us water the delicious water of the Xile which is sold at every station for a son, (a cent or ha'- penny,) bottle and all. And we all drank out of the same bottle, which gave me infinite delight because of the fraternity. . . .Then the Moslems are clean. They drink no wine or offensive liquors, they rarely eat meat; their teeth are good, their breath untainted, and their lives are FROM ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO. 133 regular and sober. They are, therefore, pure-blooded, and several times a day, before prayers, it is a scrupulous and religious duty to wash their mouths thoroughly. The "cup of cold water" was offered to us with scriptural tradition as well as their instinctive spirit of hospitality, for we were strangers in their strange land. But alas! we could not converse with them, as they spoke only Arabic iwhich we did not speak. However, with mysterious telegraphy, our necessity became known in the adjoining compartment, and soon a young Egyptian came in and very courteously offered, in good English, to translate for us. We gladly accepted the offer, for better than guide-books or histor- ical works are the natives, who alone can give facts and information concerning all that pertains to their country, and to their life. We learned much from our fellow-trav- ellers, concerning Egypt, past and present, in those few hours between Alexandria and Cairo. The subject of religion claimed a large portion of our inquiries, and it was remarkable how all the Moslems listened and begged to be made acquainted with what we said. Our conversa- tion soon assured them of our sympathy, which certainly astonished them, as sympathetic strangers visit them but rarely, and they expressed themselves very appreciatingly. We were informed that a certain French preacher was soon expected in Egypt, coming from Algiers and Tunis, who had spoken and written of the necessity of Christians and Moslems having a better understanding, etc. They asked if we had heard of him, and could give them any news of his coming? We were hesitating, being somewhat embarrassed in our reply, when our interpreter sprang to his feet before Pere Hyacinthe, and with a low salaam, carrying his right hand to his brow and then to his heart, exclaimed, "It is you ! I feel it is you !" Then there followed many other salaams, and much 134 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. gracious speech on the part of a compact company, and of 'those who came flocking in from the adjoining- compart- ments. Thus unexpectedly we were travelling in the Heart of Islam! At every station we were handed fresh water and or- anges, to refresh us on our way. Cigarettes, too, were offered us and declined while I, as usual, not only gave the reason that the fumes and odor of tobacco were un- pleasant to me, but that nicotine was harmful for the body as well as for the soul. Then there was some quick, quiet communication among them, and rapidly, one after an- other, for all were smoking (happily in the soft, warm climate all the windows were open), the smoking ceased. Our railway compartment became a Monotheistic and Ecumenical Council for the whole world's true faith was represented there: by Jews, Christians, and Moslems. If larger councils could be called together in the same spirit, these dreadful wars and massacres would soon cease! The question of religion interested them most of all. The Mussulmans put their inquiries with a simplicity, directness, and distinctness which would have dispelled any reticence and reserve, had we had any. The interest was so great, among the calm-natured Moslems, that long before w r e reached Cairo, our interpreter, filled with re- ligious enthusiasm, declared he was ready to follow and help us in our mission, to the end of the world, and to the end of life, without money and without price, leaving father and mother, and home and country, in the service of "Allah" for the reconciliation of believers! It was not without pain that we declined his sincere and reiterated offer. "You talk like the Gospel of Jesus," I said to him to which he replied, "We do follow the Gospel of Jesus, for He and Mohammed are not enemies but friends, and both were sent of God to do His work. I read the Gospel as well as FROM CAIRO TO ALEXANDRIA. 135 the Koran for they are sister-books having the same moral and principles of God and Judgment." This young Mussulman was a workman in a factory and but twenty years old. [Query : Do we find among us many such religious phi- losophers at that age, of any calling, who read the Bible and the Koran, and are willing at a moment's notice to leave all for God's service?] But we must not forget Egypt for her people, so with all our conversation we kept our eyes a great deal out of the window. The low region of the Delta began to assume that charm of which we had heard so much, as the sun declines ; and we perceived at the outset that the charm is not so much in the melancholy monotony of -its landscape, as in its marvelous atmosphere and rare coloring, which simply intoxicate the senses, and through them awaken the spirit- ual sentiments. That mellow, orange glow of twilight was growing deeper arid merging into purple and rich bronze; when on the high, opposite bank of a long canal, whose sky-reflected surface seemed to separate us from the world beyond, there appeared, clear-cut and shadowless, against the sky a marriage cortege of tall, slow-moving camels, the first bearing an immense baldachin in which was hidden the bride, the others carrying her attendants, while the men surrounded them on foot. All was in high silhouette against the opaline firmament. Very beautiful and happy was our first twilight in the land of Egypt! Human voices and words were out of place. We were under the mystic charm! World! be still! Softer and softer fell the shadows, deeper and deeper fell the silence as all eyes were turned outward towards the sky. I think the Moslems were praying looking be- 136 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. yond the low Delta beyond the desert over the Red Sea to the wilderness of Arabia, to their Holy City. Our prayers were joined to theirs, and went out towards our Mecca just a little higher on the terrestrial plain than theirs whither we were bound O, Jerusalem! This silence was broken but once, as we neared our destination, when a white-turbaned head turned toward us and a long dark, bare arm from beneath the snowy bournous was stretched out through the open window with a wave which signified distance, and we heard in an im- pressive undertone all through our company the magic word, "Pyramids." Then the silence became deeper, and the reverie more profound. The twilight had faded into the night and the night had burst into Glory! CHAPTER XV. THE PYRAMIDS. A FULL night's sleep in our comfortable Hotel d'An- gleterre, brought us a sweet waking; and when we perceived the first filtering of dawn through the closed window, we opened wide the shutters, and there they stood ! Over the great plain of the city over the forest of minarets five miles away beyond the long line of palm trees, where sweeps the Nile, in the saffron-rose dawn- awaiting the sun, awaiting us, awaiting the coming ages, awaiting Eternity: the Pyramids! Quietly I stole to the house-top and was alone with the morning. . . . There are times when gratitude merges into worship, enveloping our whole being ; when the soul is for a time for an instant poised in the intermediate realm between the human and the divine ; and when, with spiritual per- ception, is revealed an intimation of the celestial life with such exquisite pression, that the joy is unbearable; and we are almost entered into the unutterable felicity of glo- rious death! Were this beatific state prolonged, but one instant more, we should cease to live! The finite heart is overwhelmed by the infinite! Ever after thus being permitted such a tangible, though transitory experience of the supreme rest and the ultimate joy of the beatific state, the plane of human life 138 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. is lifted higher, its asperities are toned down, its difficulties are lessened, its physical ailments and atmospheric im- pressions, modified, the material body becomes diaphanic by the rarified spiritual air we breathe; and we walk thereafter stronger and perhaps, healed; for that was the sign which the Great Physician left us. And though our spiritual wings may sometimes fail in the thick, heavy air of earth, and our feet flag in the long march, they will thenceforward never flag and fail as they did before and w r e can never suffer as we have suffered. . . . From metaphysics and psychological perceptions we must come down to solid earth. When the thoughtful director of the hotel sent to ask what we would like for our breakfast, the soft-stepping, white - robed Arab valet - de - chambre who brought the message, seemed like an angel; and the full long, delicious day of rest and perfect contentment of existence was that of Paradise. Fatigue, discomfort, care, anxiety, and illness were all forgotten. Our gratitude was their only souvenir. We went to the Pyramids the next day. The crossing of the Nile the flying through that long avenue of trees, with those wing-footed Arab horses the soft yet invig- orating air everything everything prepared us for the glorious day before us. Now we stood at the foot of the greatest work which the hand of man has produced on the earth. After a kindly salutation, we made the scores of Arab guides who surrounded us understand that we wanted to be alone. I needed the great silence of the desert for this sublime cult, and I withdrew to that side of the great Pyramid which looks to the sun. With my knees in the sand and my head upon this cyclopean altar, which now, in the high light of the noon-day, had become gigantic blocks of unpolished gold, and was lifted up like a moun- tain into the sky, with expanded soul, I gave thanks to THE PYRAMIDS. 139 Him who was doubtless to the mass of its builders, the "UNKNOWN GOD/' One life-long, haunting desire was satisfied. Yet, with it all, there still remained the other, the greater longing. But I was now so near, that haste \vas no more necessary. I could afford to wait. And as I prayed here, a great love for the people of Egypt entered into my heart, and a broader and deeper love for humanity in the past, in the present, and in the future. Then I kissed the rough stones, disintegrated by the ages, and went and stood afar off to better see and appreciate the colossal wonder. Of all the w r orks of man on the earth, this is the fittest emblem of eternity. St. Sophia in the East, St. Paul's and St. Peter's in the West, will crumble into dust and be washed down into the sea ; yet this High Altar will stand ! And, mayhap, some day a mighty Cross will be planted on its summit and bear in its arms the Crescent and the Star: three fitting emblems of the One True Religion uniting earth to Heaven and man to God. The long, worshipful day was ended, and as we stood in contemplation within the great shadow, which now be- gan to lengthen over the landscape, we seemed to hear from the far-stretching plain there to the North where La Grande Armcc was encamped the roar of Bonaparte's cannon awaking with the same blast, ancient Egypt to Science, and modern Egypt to Progress. Alas, that mighty genius did not understand his great opportunity nor him- self, nor comprehend his task. Hs advanced nothing for his dynasty, nor for France; but he shook Europe, and aroused the world ! Very certain it is that the awakening of modern Islam is due to Napoleon, and all Moslems ren- der him homage. This grand day was closing. And these gigantic mys- teries of Love, and Pyramids and Sphinx only deepened my longing for the further Eastward; and as we went I4O THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. down into the shadow which enveloped the earth I sang again the sublime anthem: Jerusalem! Now there still remains the human side of earthly things and sublunary circumstances. And there is no process of human events which so reduces the self-com- placency and pride of our century, as a visit to the Pyra- mids, Temples, and Tombs of Egypt. And as we wended our way back to Cairo in the mellow air of the closing day, through that long avenue of whispering trees, we felt in our humiliation I had almost said humility a kinship with the meek animal which bore us, rather than those giants who had builded these everlasting wonders! A-propos of donkeys, I must tell you that in the Orient, and particularly in Egypt and in Palestine, they are treated not only with kindness and tenderness, but are regarded as almost sacred. They are members of the family, sharing the same food and drink, as if the people remembered that it was this humble creature which bore hither from the cruel massacre of Herod the little Child-Saviour. And with W 7 hat pride they decorate these little animals; hanging necklaces and embroideries about their necks, and clipping them in lace-work designs. And how strange is the well- defined natural cross they bear upon their shoulders! Is it not a phenomenal symbol of divine love, linking to- gether man and his inferior brethren all God's creatures in mutual help, labor, and sympathy? Thus we meditated on the upper and nether spheres, with their overlapping circumstances and interwoven events, as we returned to the great city already enveloped in her purple-gold mantle of the night; through the rich gloaming of the solemn Egyptian twilight, along the shore of the Nile, which glinted between the soft feathery palm trees, just there where the other sacred babe was hidden away from those who sought to kill him : One, the great Law-giving Child the other the sweet Life-giving Babe THE PYRAMIDS. 14! .... There bend the same bulrushes on the edge of the river and see! there comes the daughter of Pharaoh! How clean cut her silhouette against the dark, glistening river, and how graceful, as she bends down among the rushes: this daughter of the Egyptian of to-day and of 4000 years ago ! CHAPTER XVI. CAIRO. A CORDIAL welcome awaited us in Cairo, from Chris- JL\. tians and Moslems. For a fortnight we were the guests of Chefik Bey, Secretary of the Khedive, and were the recipients of a most charming hospitality. His resi- dence is palatial, with all the comforts and conveniences of European life, yet is under the Moslem regime. A suite of rooms were at our disposal, with French- speaking Arab servants. Our Egyptian host is a refined and educated gentleman, having studied in Paris and trav- elled extensively. He usually accompanied the Khedive on his European excursions. He is married to a beautiful and educated Turkish wife, and has a fine little son. To say more than this would be indiscreet, save that the harem, or wife's apartments, are luxurious, with heavy carved furniture in gilt, hangings of delicate pink and blue satin, and lace. The windows and galleries belonging to the harem are all closely latticed, as in all Moslem houses. It should be borne in mind that this seclusion of Mohammedan ladies is not imposed by their religion, or by their husbands, but by ancient custom; and they de- mand what to them is a sacred privilege of living, and taking the air on their terraces or verandas, without the annoyance of being gazed at by curious neighbors or passing strangers; and also, of walking or riding with their faces covered, without being obliged to suffer the vulgar stare or prying curiosity of the public. Their CAIRO. 143 pride is in privacy and seclusion the vanity of our women demands show and publicity. As to liberty, the Moslem wife in superior families, is not only free in her own domain, but she is a reigning queen, and by no means the abject slave we have been led to think. The husband religiously respects her privacy and when lady visitors are announced he always withdraws, never presuming to intrude upon their presence, nor upon his wife's prerog- ative of receiving what ladies she likes. We enjoyed every possible attention in this intelligent and cultured Moslem family receiving many visits, both Moslem and Christian. Every day His Excellency re- ceived, at his table, men of learning, distinction, and piety : Arabs, Turks, and Europeans, which afforded us the rare opportunity of studying Mussulmans in their own milieu. I was, unfortunately, the only lady present. Here we made the acquaintance of the Sheik Ali-Yous- sef, the distinguished editor of the leading Arabic news- paper in Egypt, El-Moayad, one of the most notable lead- ers of the National party, a progressive mind, and pro- motor of all salutary reforms. We had expected much from Cairo, but the first view and impression of this strange and unique city were over- powering. It was permanent phantasmagoria; very hu- man but withal something super-human. The mind could not seize or comprehend it; and it was only when we mounted the citadel, and rose high above its mixed and mottled humanity, and looked out over the marvelous me- tropois, a forest of minarets and domes, over the majestic Nile, beyond the deserted city of the Tombs of the Kha- lifs, away to the distant Delta, with its deep, dark verdure, out to the yellow desert belt to the Arabian hills on the east, and the Lybian mountains on the west, (which bind within this narrow strip of loam-land the richest granary in the world,) and which encompasses the Pyramids and 144 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. the horizon, that we began to comprehend the majestic past and the marvelous present of Egypt. Going about for the first two or three days among this heterogeneous mass of men the mind is depressed and sometimes saddened. So many fellahs, barefooted and in tatters, so many women, all clad in black with long veils trailing in the dust, as if in mourning, and they, too, barefooted ; carrying their chidren on hip or shoulder, and, besides, often carrying a great jar on the head, and with only an attempt at covering their faces from below the eyes with a shred of thick black veil, fastened with a gilt perpendicular cylinder on the forehead. At first I could bear this only for two or three hours at a time, when T was obliged to seek my quiet room and shut my eyes and rest my brain, while meditating on this mysterious con- glomerate world. But as the days, and my observation wore on, my impressions changed. I remarked with what alertness all these eonle m^ed about. There was evi- dently something to a^, and they were doing it. The Egyptians were never a cheerful people, and how could they be to-day with the ponderous past, the solemn present, and the portentous future ! But in observing more closely, I perceived, especially among the fellahs, that there was a placid expression upon their faces which showed, if not content, something better : faith. As I went deeper into their lives I found among them a relative happiness, cer- tainly greater than with our European lower classes. "Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise." But these unlettered people are not by any means untaught, and in what is most important in life : humility, obedience to God and their rulers, (even if they do not like them and therein lies a great virtue,) resignation, and adora- tion.* Here is certainly a grand basis for happiness. Life * It must be borne in mind that to-day the Egyptians have three earthly rulers: English military Occupation, His Highness the Khedive the most CAIRO. 145 with them is certainly reduced to its preliminary principles, moral, social, and religious : to be born, to breathe warm, congenial air all the days of their lives, and to have just enough to eat to sustain them, whether herbs, grain, or fruit, with the free nutritious water of the Nile to drink and wherein to bathe and above all perfect liberty to worship God! What else could they ask? [Grand object-lesson for us of the higher civilization eternally discontented.] The fellah is not often hungry, though he is often in need of food; but when he feels the gnawing, and has nothing to eat, he goes to the Nile and drinks ; and if he is very hungry, he drinks a good deal, and takes a bath! and then goes on with his work refreshed, sustained, content, remembering the Arab proverb: "He who has tasted a crust of bread has tasted all the stars and all the heavens/' loved, and the Sultan of Turkey, wii.~ K anf, is supremest, as he is the Religious Sovereign; and above all ALLAH. CHAPTER XVII. UP THE NILE KARNAK. NOT even Cairo nor the Pyramids could satisfy us, for our goal in this land was in Upper Egypt : the tombs of the great kings whose gigantic genius and super- human power builded these stupendous monuments. So, after a month, we started on this long, longed-for voyage "Up the Nile." And how comfortably we were settled in our two nice little cabins, filled with the morning sun, on one of Cook's excellent mail-steamers, moored just below Kasr-el-Nil, the great iron draw-bridge across the Nile. Thoroughly as we dislike the sea, we enjoy travel on rivers, where there is no possibility of sea-sickness, little probability of shipwreck, storm, or drowning; and where there are so many opportunities of going ashore, and every moment something new to be seen and enjoyed on either bank. During the first day of our voyage all were occupied with the Pyramids which stand along the western shore of the Nile; sublime sentinels, keeping count of the pass- ing generations, dynasties, and centuries. On our second day, to the astonishment of all in this delectable climate, a dark cloud of rain, sleet, and hail fell upon us in such quantities and force that we could not remain on deck. We gathered a dozen plates full of large hail-stones, to the surprise of the natives and to the dis- UP THE NILE. KARNAK. 147 gust of those chilly travellers who had fled three or four thousand miles to escape such manifestations of nature. But this cold wave soon passed over, and Egypt speedily regained her rainless reputation, and we were henceforth in unrelenting sunshine, drinking in elixir of health and delight, without stint or variation. After passing the Pyramids and numberless sand- and rock-hidden tombs, we came to Memphis, the ancient cap- ital of Egypt, built over 4000 years B. C, whose splen- dor has rarely been equaled and where reigned the great Ptah. Here Joseph lived and Moses was born. It was besieged in turn by the Assyrians, Ethiopians, and Per- sians whose great invader Cambyses slew her priests and smote the sacred bull, Apis, unto death. And here lies the colossal statue of Rameses II, half buried in the sand. All efforts to raise or transport it have thus far been unsuccessful. Here travellers visit the house of Ma- rietta Bey, the distinguished French explorer who un- earthed these treasures, and the tomb of the sacred bull; then to Ben-Hassan, with its mummies and rock-tombs; and Assiout, with its tomb of the sacred wolf, and that of a great king of the thirteenth dynasty. Here also we found a most prosperous American Protestant mission school.* From these points are uncovered some of the finest views of the valley of the Nile. Then to Abydos, with its beauti- ful ruins : to Dendereh with its prodigious temple covered with gigantic figures in intaglio, and its myriads of bees up in its marvelous frieze which fill the warm air with their winged music. * An interesting and amusing incident occurred here : As the plank was thrown out the first person who pushed aboard was a petit monsieur of ten years, dressed in the adult -elegance of a Parisian tailor who addressed Pere Hyacinthe with "Je sttis Frangais!" The little man had however some- what forgotten his lesson, as he meant to say "I speak French" but made it quite clear that he was a Coptic gentleman who asked us kindly for some French books for his library which he received. 148 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Our visit to this latter place was made memorable by the first attempt of Pere Hyacinthe to ride a donkey. He acquitted himself well, although he came in last, having walked, by preference, most of the way. . . .He is one of those who go slowly but surely, and never commits him- self to the caprice of another party. . . . Here we met a strange tribe of people not fellahs, or subject to the Egyptian or any other human power; an encampment of peaceiul nomads who come here in the winter from the Lybian desert, seeking the Nile and a glimpse of civilization like our own fashionable society "doing the season." The men are fine, well-built, almost black though not negroes and unmixed, with only an attempt at a covering. The women, scarcely more clothed, keeping well in the background, are veiled only by dis- tance. The children, however, from those carried in the arms of their elders, to boys of twelve and thirteen, (the marriageable age,) were perfectly nude. The girls wore a shred of stuff around their loins and were exquisitely formed and most graceful in movement, and also pertina- cious in their winning way of asking for backsheesh. Here was an excellent occasion for a lesson in moral economy; and as I feel it a duty to teach as we go, I explained to these children through our dragoman, that we could not con- scientiously give backsheesh to boys over ten years old who w r ere so lacking in respect as to present themselves to foreigners in a state of nudity. They heard this with blank astonishment as they had no conception of such a reason. When we returned all the older boys had whisps of herbs about their chests just under their arms, and on their heads ! We carried our lesson of morals in fashions no farther with these children of the desert, lest we should inculcate immoral ideas, as doctors of theology sometimes do in the confessional box. "To the pure all things are pure."- -They were certainly an idyllic group of children, UP THE NILE. KARNAK. 149 made of living bronze, and to complete the classical pic- ture, the older lads played on the Pan-pipes, one of which I purchased, the finest of the lot, for five cents. So ended our donkey ride to Dendereh. During the voyage up the Nile we sailed only by day- light. At eventide a convenient landing, or rather a moor- ing place, was found near one bank or the other,, and we slept quietly and sweetly through the balmy, noiseless night. The machinery was still, and only from time to time some far-off village muezzin's voice called to prayer. Luxor. Here we felt almost at home, so familiar are its ruins by description and photography. We arrived at sunset, and as the plank was thrown out for the passengers to land, a fine looking fellah among the multitude held up a letter and spoke our name. Friends had provided for us, and Achmed, the excellent dragoman, very soon had us settled in the paragon of an hotel, in the midst of a forest of palm trees. The dinner was incongruous though the cui- sine and service were irreproachable: they were French. . . Most of the people at the table spoke my mother tongue and the conversation was not interesting. Neither Egypt nor Egyptians, nor the Nile, nor even mummies, were men- tioned; the subjects were hunting-boxes, and meets, hounds, golf, etc. We did not wait for dessert. We pre- ferred walking in the garden where the Nile breeze, and the palm trees, and the stars seemed to speak to us of the days and nights of long ago when there were no tourists in this blessed country. Suddenly we were startled by a dark figure appearing before us in the shadow. It was Achmed, who said in his soft broken English, "They be all ready me-lady. Shall I say Madame or me-lady?" he asked. I replied "As I am a French subject, you can say Madame." This was 150 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. immediately communicated in an undertone to the other men. These fellahs have nice perceptions. . . . "How many are you?" I asked. "Four, Me-Madame," he replied/' and with two don- key-boys and myself, that makes seven, and as it is almost ten o'clock we will start as soon as Madame likes." It was a midnight visit to Karnak, to see the moon rise amid the great ruins. I went without my husband who did not feel quite equal to the night excursion. I enjoined upon Achmed to keep aloof from all other sight- seers. I was borne in a chaise-d-porteurs an arm-chair fastened to two long poles carried on the shoulders of four stalwart fellahs, who were constantly relieved by the two reserves. I insisted, however, on a frequent full stop, for rest. Being carried or drawn by horses, or any other animal, has been the bane of my life, but by men ! well, it has one advantage you can express your feelings with- out the lash of a driver and they can express theirs, though you do not understand the language .... It was my first experience of this mode of travel, and it was not without considerable emotion that I found myself perched and swung high over these dark figures of un- known men, as I launched out into the Egyptian night, across the desolate wold which lies between Luxor and Karnak, about four miles distant. The night was warm, and the air, in which there was no dampness, was most calming to the senses and the spirit. But such dark- ness unlike anything I had ever seen or felt. The sky was deep indigo-blue almost black, and only now and then a star came out to reassure me withdrawing imme- diately. It was in fact, Egyptian darkness visible and palpable. In the west over the scarcely discernible Nile which revealed itself at times in the dark night by a faint glint on its black surface a mile away, there was a vague UP THE NILE. KARNAK. horizon of the Lybian hills, jet-black against dead-black, beneath which sleep the great kings (who were waiting our visit on the morrow,) and just enough light in the darkness to show that we were in the midst of a vast, high plain without an object upon it neither house, nor tent, nor tree. I had stipulated with the men for no smoking or con- versation wishing to have the full and perfect enjoyment of the solemn night, with its great silence and its uncon- taminated air. Silence was incumbent in the dead world and the dead night; and the loamy earth gave forth no sound to the step of the barefooted carriers. I had some- times dreamt of flying in the lighter space, I was now in reality floating in darkness. I was being borne over the great city of Thebes, the ancient Metropolis of the world, and all the sleeping centuries conspired in keeping the aw r ful silence, for they had buried up its history. My soul was gradually seized with something akin to that emotion which will, perhaps, come upon us in the dark hour of death, when we feel the soft, sombre curtain closing in about us, and we see no longer the bending faces of those we love nor earth, nor stars, nor any creature. The awe of Eternity encompassed me. After nearly two hours, it seemed to me a rapt cen- tury, there rose through the weird darkness and super- natural silence the mournful moon. The detail of that awful and unearthly night, I cannot recall. Indeed there was no detail ; I had entered into the Infinite, where human expressions are lost. Earthly life was only suggested by the solemn touches of a waning moon. Then I walked alone among the gigantic columns. A fascinating terror lurked in their dark shadows beneath the half-fallen, massive blocks of stone which hung in mid- air far above and seemed to reel and swing ready to I$2 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. fall and crush me an atom, into the other dust : into the glorious rest of that sentient soil, into the Eternal sur- cease of sin and sorrow, yet not dead but keeping apace with the evolving centuries: the finite Self merged into the Infinite Ego. And had these stones fallen I think my emotion would have been the same : my whole being was paralysed unto into death: calm and ready for the great transformation; and whether flesh or dust live dust or dead dust it mattered not; for, after the over- powering impression of the unity of all gods in the One and Only, there is scarcely less the profound impression of ultimate resurrection. The old desponding moon had disappeared over the dark river and beyond the darker hills. Up above me through a rift of the ruined world there shone high in the Zenith a star. Then they carried me .back those dark men of Nubia, Libya, and Abyssinia; keeping the religious silence. As we passed down the avenue of the Sphinxes and out upon the great plain again, I asked Achmed to let the men rest, but he replied : "Oh no, not yet, they are not in the least tired, for they are all so happy because Madame is so happy, and they know you are glad to come to us, away up here among our old ruins. But if Madame would allow them to sing a little, I am sure they would be still gladder, for that rests us so much when we are carrying something, or working hard, for Madame may not know we pray when we sing." "Oh, yes, now let them sing," I replied, "sing all they like only let it be low and tell me what is the meaning of their songs." He replied, "It is only a little prayer, asking Allah to bless us as we carry you in the dark night over the ancient city of Thebes." And to the rhythmic movement of their steps they be- UP THE NILE. KARNAK. 153 gan a low refrain, so soft and sweet, and yet so human, in its supplicating tones, that shortly I caught it up, and soon we all sang together ; and all the way back, through the sublime darkness of that glorious Egyptian night. I was sorry when we began to descry faintly the habitations of the forlorn city. I could have remained another cen- tury, swinging and singing, soft and low, on the shoulders of those dusky men who seemed nearer than brethren : they had become my children. And there will ever remain with me, when nights are dark and the old moon melan- choly something akin to the solemn rapture of my soul in that weird journey across the black and silent plain which covers Thebes from Luxor to Karnak. Soon thereafter, on a bright morning, we were on the quiet little steamer pushing up the still-flowing river. O, the joy of going onward and upward! of being borne and not carried ! And Oh ! the joy of being born into this beautiful world! As we sailed, or rather glided, up the radiant river, through the effulgent light of that Oriental morning, we felt in our soul a thrilling joy akin to that which the Crea- tor of the world must have felt when He looked forth upon that First Morning in the Early Beginning and pro- nounced it "good." Only we were \vorshipful. CHAPTER XVIII. UPPER EGYPT ASSOUAN. ANY description of mine of life on the Nile would be feeble and futile, for those who never travel know all about it; but this much I must say: I have travelled in many lands, and have breathed the balmy winters in the south of France, Algeria, Tunis, in Italy, Florida, and California, but nothing approaches this marvelous cli- mate of Egypt! The beatitude of breathing is only here. Above all else, however, we are interested in the people ; this strange race who carry the history of the past in their lithe forms, graceful movements, and deep dark eyes, but most of all in their resisting force and native intelligence. Brains keep to the front. There is igno- rance, but no degeneracy. At every landing they swarmed upon us, these poor fellahs some timidly, others courage- ously, and many asking for backsheesh. They often en- cumber the pier and the plank, hindering business affairs, yet they were never treated with harshness by the upper native class. Occasionally, however, an onslaught was made upon them by some one belonging to the boat, then they scattered in an instant, but returned again, unchanged in humor and demeanor. There is an intermediate class who bring their wares and products to sell. Mixed with the Mussulmans, who are the large majority, there are almost always a number of Copts. In the larger towns there is a considerable UPPER EGYPT. ASSOUAN. I 55 and very respectable community of these native Christians, but as they are of the same race and customs, save in their religion, they are not outwardly distinguishable to stran- gers. The principal commodities they bring for sale are long sugar canes of 12, 15, and 20 feet in length, and bread which resembles a thick, soft pancake, made of coarse ground wheat, slightly sifted which makes it very nu- tritive, healthy, and really excellent to the taste. These gaunt, frugally-fed fellahs work all day long in the broiling sun, where a full-fed, muscular European workman would die before noon. They receive for a day's work but a few farthings, and I think the average work- man lives on about two sous a day, women on less, and the children, after they are weaned, live on air and water and sunshine, with a few herbs and a little bread added thereto. The health of the natives is generally good, but all over Africa and the East, many are afflicted with ophthalmia, owing to the dust and \vant of care of the eyes. I have seen poor Mussulmans who make scrupulous ablutions and wash their mouths with vigor several times a day, but who, if they are inclined to this terrible malady, are afraid to wash their eyes thoroughly. They have the fatal prejudice that when the terrible disease shows itself, the eyes must not be touched. But blindness is not considered such a disaster with them as with us ; as they deem afflic- tion rather a blessing and bear it with a cheerful resigna- tion. Insanity denotes sanctity; and both blind and in- sane are treated with special care and affection. But it is surprising that there is no more efficacious means em- ployed by the government to prevent and treat ophthalmic contagion. There is, however, a free English hospital at Luxor, recently built mainly by Cook and Sons, the cele- brated tourists' agents, a worthy thank-offering for their great wealth acquired on the Nile. 156 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. The landing of the boat is very exciting and the barter- ing with the natives for their simple wares is an important affair. And here I must, in conscience, record what is not to the honor, and sometimes not to the probity of travellers : the way they "beat down" the poor fellahs for their trifle-wares, over which they have spent weeks, and perhaps months, and which are so beautiful to them, and so poor and worthless to us, save as a souvenir of the Nile. The haggling to get them as low as possible is simply shameful. Then after the boat is pushed off, there is inevitably a comparison among the travellers of their purchases and their prices, with high exultation on the part of those who get the most for the least, what they call a "bargain." And during this voyage I saw good and devout Christians, and rich withal, among the most deter- mined hagglers and the most self-complacent boasters. Poor fellahs ! Mean Christians ! There was an Anglo- Saxon gentleman, occupying a post in the government of Egypt, who upon my remonstrance for such cupidity among the rich travelling public, said, "Ah, madame, you don't know these fellahs as I do there is only one way to treat them, beat them down! and keep them down!" I do not think it best to give my rejoinder, only I must say, in duty to him, that for the rest of the voyage he showed a more humane spirit. Though John Bull is a pugilistic fellow, he has heart in his stout breast, and appreciates "a straight hit from the shoulder." Then there were some very doubtful ways of amuse- ment among a certain class of voyagers, and they were neither Anglo-Saxons nor French, who immensely en- joyed throwing down buckets of water, orange peel, and nutshells upon upturned faces of the crowds of little chil- dren and blind beggars, crying out in reply to their ap- peals: "Das ist backsheesh!" And language which was meant to be witty, but which cannot be repeated, was used UPPER EGYPT. ASSOUAN. 157 frequently toward young girls and women. Respect for womankind is not a cardinal virtue with all men who carry sabre-cuts across their university cheeks and noses, no more than they are proofs of moral prowess. The Nile boats are usually officered by British subjects and manned by natives, and upon inquiry, I found that the Egyptians were the only good navigators on the river, and the only ones to be trusted within a mile of a rum shop or bar ! One captain told me that he had been obliged to change his English stokers four times in a short period, as they invariably got drunk upon every occasion ; whereas he declared the natives never drink and are al- ways at their post. "When the boat is in their hands," he said, "I could sleep from Cairo to Assouan, if I liked, in perfect confidence, sure that nothing would happen to the boat, to the passengers, or to the cargo, during the whole trip." And these humble boatmen are not ashamed of their religion, nor their poverty, nor of their sobriety. Very often looking down from our deck, we saw them turn to the east and prostrate themselves in prayer on their cleanly scrubbed planks, upon which they usually spread a bit of carpet, old but scrupulously clean, carrying their religion and their church with them, and paying no attention to the coarse ribaldry which sometimes fell to their lot from the "higher civilization" on the first class deck. Have we not indeed something to learn in the, example of these simple, sober, and religious people? There were frequently native families aboard, and on every boat, as on every railway train in Moslem countries, there are cabins and conjpartments specially reserved for veiled women, Christians as well as Moslems; and I must say, that not only the Oriental men, but European officers and servants, show more courtesy to the Oriental women than to those of the Occident. The veiled woman of the 158 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. shut-in-kingdom commands consideration and respect everywhere. We arrived at Assouan, the capital of upper Egypt, on the afternoon of the 28th of January, and it was as warm, if not as hot, as a July day in Paris. Lighter apparel was necessary as soon as we left, the cool breeze of the river. The city is on the high eastern bank of the Nile, and in its aspect reminds one very much of a young town on the banks of the upper Mississippi. We were scarcely settled in the fine hotel, when we received the visit of the Governor of Upper Egypt, Colonel Aly Hai'dar Bey, who proffered us his offices in every pos- sible manner. His Excellency is a fine Egyptian gentle- man, intelligent and cultivated, having pursued his stud- ies in Europe and particularly in Paris. The purity of his French, and his sympathetic manners almost led us to believe him a compatriot. Of course he is a Mussulman; but , as with all educated and large-minded people, has nothing of fanaticism though tenacious of his faith. Among other agreeable things, he brought us an invita- tion from the great Sheik, Bicher Bey, to -visit him in his village out in the desert. This Sheik is the most important personage of the country, as he is the chief or king of a great people, or I should say of different tribes, for he is the independent ruler of that immense nomadic people who occupy the vast desert region lying between the Nile and the Red Sea. Of recent years he has been induced to recognize the Egyptian government which has, in conse- quence, ennobled him with the title of Bey, and also be- stowed upon him many privileges, in recognition of the peaceful and kindly relations which now exist between them. He is a power to be counted with, in religion and in war, and his people are devoted to him knowing no other ruler. The well-known Bicheri are among his tribes. Our immense room at the hotel, high, cool, and com- UPPER EGYPT. ASSOUAN. 159 fortable, with its eight windows which, with their heavy iron bars, gave it rather the aspect of a magnificent prison contained as a delicate compliment to me an American rocking chair, in which I rested, but did not rock, that was too suggestive of the sea, (and then I am convinced that rocking-chairs are one cause of the ailments of Ameri- can women). Being on the ground-floor, we had n fine view of all that passed in the street, on the Nile, over on the island of Elephantine, just opposite, and out into the desert beyond. Early the next morning after our arrival, we saw a number of tall magnificent cream-colored camels approach- ing with saddles, caparisons, and, attendants which indi- cated rank. At the same instant the Governor sent to say that the Sheik, Bicher Bey, had asked him to accompany us, and had sent his camels to convey us to his residence. These tribes are semi-nomadic and during the summer move about in the vast desert, and only come to their city for the winter. I said nothing, but I must confess that it was with no little trepidation that I mounted the ladder which took me to the top of the kneeling mountain. Ready and accom- plished hands landed me in what was more a high-backed chair than a saddle, but before I had time to reflect, much less to consent, there was a great lunge forward, and then another lunge backward, and we were in the upper air and en-route. The Governor rode a superb Arab horse at my side. We passed through the sinuous streets out through the Moslem cemetery, and on into the desert, where I could descry no sign of a dwelling amidst the un- dulating sand. After about an hour's ride we came upon it unawares, so like the sand in color was the town-resi- dence of the great chief. . It was well built, in rectangular streets, with large houses of sunburnt brick, one story high. From my lofty seat I could see that the houses were l6o THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. mostly without roof, or half-roofed, having large open courts within. At the entrance of the main street, \ve were met by an advance-guard of tall retainers who surrounded us with repeated salaams of welcome, and then we were soon amidst a score of still taller and more soldier-like men, and before I had quite time to take in the novel scene, a tall dark Arab head and shoulders taller than them all with a scepter in his hand, appeared before my camel, which immediately at sight of him, fell upon its knees. It was the Sheik himself, and he forthwith assisted me to alight, and with such grace, strength, and dexterity as no lady could find outside the Arab world. The Governor had already alighted and stood by his side, and the formal presentation of Pere Hyacinthe and myself took place. Salutations were reiterated, and then we were led within. We traversed court after court, with nothing but walls around, sand floors beneath, and blue sky overhead. At last we reached a vaster room which was partly roofed, and what an unexpected scene met us! Several steps led up to a high, carpeted floor around which were divans of rich upholstery and f auteuils, all gilded ; and in the midst thereof a large round table covered with silken damask and laid with silver-ware and Sevres china. At the back of this was a withdrawing room, furnished with massive Florentine carved and gold-gilt furniture, and mirrors from ceiling to floor (mirrors are not usual in Moslem houses which fact has perhaps a moral) . Tea was await- ing our arrival and was served by the Sheik himself, with all the grace of a West-end Londoner to the manner of "tiffin" born. The large fauteuil opposite the Sheik was for the lady guest, my husband at his right, the Governor at mine. Though servants of all rank abound, they would be quite out of place and embarrassing with the Orientals, who deem it the highest honor to serve their guests them- selves, becoming thereby according to Oriental Gospel, UPPER EGYPT. ASSOUAN. l6l the servants indeed of those who do them honor in accept- ing their hospitality. This is as sincere as it is dignified, and as gracefully done as by those whose prerogative they usurp ; for according to our ideas, it is the rightful privilege of the lady of the house, to be the server of teas and the dispenser of indoor hospitalities. In height, perfect build, and demeanor, with fine straight Caucasian features and deep bronze complexion amalgamated gold and steel a keen black, intelligent eye, and benevolent, though austere, expression of face ; this proud son of the desert, this great Moslem Sheik, carried off the palm in high and noble dignity. He, like his body-guard, wore a long graceful black robe, like the Coptic cassock, open down the front, with long open sleeves, beneath which was worn fine black raiment, with a broad winding belt. His large turban was of black silk. In his hand he carried his baton of authority, which repre- sents alike the crook or crozier of the pastoral kings and the ruler's scepter. He spoke many dialects and, of course, the classic Arabic, but alas! no tongue which we could understand. The Governor was our interpreter. For an hour we asked and replied to a multitude of questions, the asking being certainly most on our side; and how admirably straight-forward, but respectful, without circumlocution or restraint, were the answers; and what strange and valuable information he gave us. One of the most inter- esting subjects was that of ethnology, and when my hus- band asked whence his straight and fine features, deep bronze skin, and straight hair, he told us that their history which is, of course, tradition, as these people have no literature save the Koran, which is common to all Islam shows that their race was of European origin, probably Aryan: "Our color comes from the sun," he explained, l62 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. "Some of my people have straight hair and other tribes have crisp hair, but none are negroes." In coming I had said to the Governor, "Very naturally the Sheik is married," to which he replied, "Certainly, as all Moslems marry;" and when I carried my curiosity a little further, I found that His Excellency knew absolutely nothing more, as inquiry is never made concerning harem life, even by the most intimate friends ; for the kings of the desert have court protocol as rigorous as our sovereigns. So of course concerning this great Sheik who lives outside the more advanced and progressive Moslem life, there was little hope of hearing, and much less seeing anything of his mysterious shut-in-kingdom. I had given a quiet signal to the Governor that we must not abuse hospitality by remaining too long, which sig- nal, though given in a covert way, was seized at once by the quick eye of the Sheik, and he asked with perfect self- possession, if "Madame would not like to visit his Madame, who was waiting very anxiously to make my acquaint- ance." Rarely have I been more surprised, and never more gratified; and I was most happy to hear the waiting party spoken of in the singular. Then, using the Governor for interpreter, I was obliged to tell him, and he to translate to the Sheik, all that I wished to say to his wife. For this I was forced to ask some questions and the first of all as to her health and children; and was assured touching the former with graceful salaams, and informed in the most easy manner concerning the latter: that he had a son of four years old, his wife being now sixteen. The Sheik appeared to be about thirty-two. Leaving the Governor and the Pere to their conversa- tion, the Sheik led me through a labyrinth of courts and corridors, for the harem and the salemlik are always well separated (two distinct principalities in the great UPPER EGYPT. ASSOUAN. 163 kingdom) the same bare, sand-brick walls, and hard sand floors, with the same cerulean roof overhead. -Not an object, nor a person was to be seen, save in one (was it an augury,?) a beautiful little black lamb. Then through another door and there she stood, on the covered dais : a dream of beauty! white as milk with the faintest sea- shell blush of pink upon her cheeks and so transparent in complexion that the blue veins were easily traced upon her hands and broad finely developed forehead. She was evidently of pure Circassian, or Georgian blood; her type of beauty was preeminently intellectual. She stood in the middle of her throne-room to receive me like a reigning queen with great dignity, yet with suave and graceful manner. With that mysterious and indescribable recog- nition which two sympathetic women possess in meeting for the first time, she and I simultaneously held out our hands and embraced each other, she kissing me on either shoulder, the mark of reverence for superior age, which, with the Oriental, is a first consideration. After repeated assurance of welcome, which I could easily understand, her husband began to explain my message. But to pre- sent the scene to the life, I must first say how she was dressed : She wore a long flowing soft blue muslin gown, the princess style, which is semi-adjusted and flowing full with a train and, to my surprise she wore few ornaments ; which proves that in the Orient, as in the Occident, real beauty and real distinction, as well as good taste, require few accessories. There was no henna upon her nails nor antimony about her eyes, whose lashes and eye-brows were jet black, as well as her wealth of hair, which was plaited in two massive braids, the classical Egyptian style which we see on its monuments, falling just in front of the ear and almost to her knees; the back of the head and hair, enveloped in a pretty silken scarf, falling down the back. There was one very curious detail: just at the beginning 164 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. of the straight parting 'of the hair, above the alabaster forehead, were woven in with infinite skill, small blue and golden beads, strung on each hair, a little ornament, forming a sort of coronet. And now began, in our respective and unintelligible tongues, yet perfectly understood, conversation. I was, however, struck by the changed, though manly attitude of the great Sheik, which plainly showed that he was in the presence of his sovereign ! And she was quite con- scious of her sovereignty. Yet there was certainly a happy reign of mutual respect and love. After she had charged him with much to say to me, with her graceful gesture and pretty speech we again embraced, and the Sheik and I returned to the salemlik, where, with great precision he carefully and most attentively, as a prime minister would convey the orders of his ruler, recapitu- lated, through the Governor, all that his wife would have me know. And what touched her most was my anxieties concerning the moral education of our sons in the fear of God. She was evidently as pleased as surprised that re- ligion was our great preoccupation. And another thing which surprised her was, and this the Sheik recounted with equal gravity as a matter of state or religion, that I had n6t asked to see her jewelry and fine clothes, as it is currently believed by Moslem women that Christian women only wish to visit Oriental women to see their treasures and furbelows. I was certainly complimented by hearing that this little Moslem wife and sixteen-year old mother, of a nomadic tribe of the African desert, had found me, an Anglo-Saxon, belonging to the highest civ- ilization, a serious, polite, and religious woman ! Indeed I was never more flattered in my life! Such appreciation was well worth going for "down into Egypt," "up the Nile," and "out into the desert." Whether she was born Mussulman, or Christian as most Circassians and Geor- UPPER EGYPT. ASSOUAN. 165 gians are, I do not know; but I felt that I loved this fair little Moslem lady at first and only sight. On taking our departure, I said to His Excellency, .Richer Bey, that my visit to him and the acquaintance of his wife, were among the most instructing and happy events of our long voyage. After his warmly expressed desire that we might come again to Upper Egypt, and visit him and his wife, I said: "Well, if God wills it, we will come again, but if we are prevented by circumstance, and our advanced age, from seeing you again in this world, we hope our son, whom God has given us, will meet your son some day, but never on the battlefield ! And though we may never meet on earth again, we feel certain that we are friends for life, and for eternity, and our sons will be friends, and also our peoples: yours wandering in the great deserts of Africa, and ours dwelling in the great cities and fertile gardens of Europe. They will gradually be drawn together by mutual needs, understanding and re- spect, and above all by the love of the brotherhood of the children of God!" The Sheik, who was sitting on the opposite side of the table, hereupon arose and came to me, taking both my hands in his, pressing them warmly and in silence, and with deep emotion, in which all present participated, pre- sented me witJi his sceptre, saying, solemnly: "We and our sons are friends for life forever!" Then we -made our adieux, and took our departure, and as we crossed the court the Governor said to us: "Well, this is the first time I have ever seen tears in the eyes of an Arab!" As we returned across the desert and through the an- cient Moslem cemetery, which seemed like a city in ruins almost buried in the drifting sands, hundreds of people, particularly women and children, came flocking to salute the Governor and his Christian friends. Thus ended one 1 66 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. of the most interesting episodes of our travels of our lives. How often since have I recalled, and ever shall recall, as I wander on the face of the earth, that fair young Mos- lem wife a sovereign lady a queen in her shut-in king- dom and her liege lord and obedient servant the noble Sheik Bicher Bey! They will read these lines some day for the gracious Princess Nazli has offered to translate them into Arabic and then they will be again assured of our abiding respect and affection. CHAPTER XIX. PREACHING IN THE DESERT. THE next morning- beneath our windows, awaiting . the opening of the shutters, was a group of Bicheri Arabs, among whom was the Adonis who was at the Columbian Exposition of Races at Chicago in 1893. His features are pure Aryan, and in beauty of face and mould of form, he resembles that paragon, the young Antonius of the Capitol. Unlike the other principal tribe of Bicher- Bey, he and his companions are swathed in white not woolen stuff, like the Arabs of Tunis and Algiers, but cotton, as they dwell in the warmer latitudes. His crispy hair hangs in innumerable small curls about his head, while on the top is a high, white, flattened mass of lard at least a pound and through this crown a long wooden stil- etto is thrust the sign of his high position. This fashion of putting on a turban of lard and it is very pure and white is common with some nomads, and what is strange, it never seems to become offensive, or to melt. Our Bicheri Adonis was most happy to know that I was American and was full of admiration and praise of my native land, consequently we became good friends. I must say that this young native of the desert is, I think, the only gentleman I have ever seen, who has not taken on "airs" after a six months' sojourn in Christian lands. He was, however, always accompanied by an uncle or friends, and though eighteen years old, he was not allowed l68 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. to run the gauntlet of our American streets alone even in broad daylight. ' Our windows, being on the ground-floor, were the center of attraction for a constant group of amiable na- tives, with whom I held frequent and most interesting conversations our dragoman always present, to ward off importunity, and translate for us. The Governor had seen the crowd from his windows and sent to disperse them, fearing we might be annoyed; at the same time assuring us of their utmost kindly feeling. We reassured him that we were not in the least annoyed, but considered them as friends whom we had come a long way to see. Thenceforward, every day, we held grand receptions through our window-bars with this amiable and intelligent people. Sometimes a group of women would come, usu- ally young girls as matrons, even of the humbler class, are too dignified to go much abroad. And when women, or girls of marriageable age (which is about twelve years) appeared, the men immediately fell back out of respect. Among these young women who came one day was a young Bicheri girl of about fourteen developed as girls would be with us at seventeen. She came as did all the women, entirely enveloped, save her beautiful eyes, in a large white ha'ik, which is like a simple sheet, though gracefully worn. As she approached my window through which we shook hands, she giving me her right hand while putting up her left to clasp the window sill, thus, though holding fast her drapery in each hand, and perfectly screened from the outer world, her face and whole form were revealed to me. She was entirely nude save for a short skirt of red cashmere beautifully and heavily em- broidered in varigated beads and tiny shells, which hung from her loins almost to her knees. Her skin was of deep brown-yellow bronze in which was gold. Never did can- vas or marble reveal such faultless proportions and ex- PREACHING IN THE DESERT. 169 quisite lines of -grace and beauty! She wore silver chased armlets above the elbow, and anklets, and for a necklace a triple row of deep red coral with another wide lace-like work of blue and gold beads, which made a modest sem- blance of covering for her beautiful young bosom, while a mass of trinkets jingled about her ears. She had a most intelligent face with soft gazelle eyes, nose slightly -aqui- line, a sweet, winning expression, and, with all, perfect unconsciousness. These women seldom have mirrors, and the adornment of their forms is less of vanity than a matter of decorum and self-respect, just as their daily ablutions are a religious duty. As in Christian lands there are beggars in Egypt; and even among these desert wastes there are those who ask for a "present," (backsheesh) particularly little children; but it really seems here more of a fashion and a compli- ment paid to the traveller than a necessity. Many trav- ellers willingly give to those beautiful little creatures, scarcely clothed, yet most modest and respectful. We might send our children to dancing schools a score of years without arriving at even an imitation of the native grace and winsome ways of these little children of the desert! I must confess that I gave them no money but something infinitely better, quiet little conversations and such friendly counsel that the second day no little hands were held out in my vicinity, save to clasp mine and after- wards kiss their own in token of respect begging me to visit their mothers. Indeed the invitations were constant and pressing to go to the homes of the people, and fre- quently the women came out in the streets plucking and kissing my garments with entreaties to go in and visit them, which I often did. The embarrassment was the difficulty of conversation; but with these people, everything is simple. Though the sexes, except those of near kin- ship, are separated, there is no distrust of men on the THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. part of women, or disrespect of women on the part of men. When I entered their houses, our dragoman, quick and intelligent, either found a near relative who spoke some language I could understand, or they spoke through the door the dragoman standing with his face outward translating for us. Simple and straight methods are always found for right proceedings, even under difficulties. I shall never forget one dark, lone figure who stood afar off from the street within her door, beckoning me to come to her. She could not venture out, for she was a lone widow, and childless and such must not go abroad. "But," as she said, having heard of me, "she had been praying Allah every day to direct my steps to her desolate dwelling." As I entered her humble home, she fell upon my neck and wept, telling me of her loneliness a rare circumstance in the Mohammedan world for she was without relatives. But happily she was not without sup- port, as are so many friendless Christian women. Her daily allowance, though small, was sure. The anguish of her widowhood was all the keener because she was child- less and for this she was inconsolable. In going away, Hamid, my dragoman (who had stood at the door with his face outward) said to me in a comforting way: "Ah yes, she is very sad now, but when the wailing is over, the 'wise women' will find her a good husband and, per- haps, God will give her children at last, for her great consolation, certainly nothing could be better !" Another most interesting visit was to a numerous fam- ily presided over by a blind grandmother whose occupa- tion was the grinding of wheat between two millstones, the scriptural custom of 4000 years ago. She was sur- rounded by a cluster of little grandchildren and great- grandchildren, all of whom vied with each other in help- ing their venerable grandmother who seemed perfectly happy. In entering any house, though chairs are not PREACHING IN THE DESERT. I/I used, it was marvelous with what alacrity a high seat was improvised for me, as it is everywhere known that Chris- tian ladies do not sit on the floor. In some cases where I was expected a chair had been purchased or borrowed. The Coptic quarter in Assouan is perhaps the finest of the city, for it is a remarkable fact that material prqs- perity has followed Christianity to a degree almost un- known among Mussulmans. But alas ! the money-getting spirit tends very soon to the lust of gold. Mammon is not a god of Islam. As I was riding through this quarter, accompanied only by our dragoman, the Coptic merchants saluted me very civilly and gave me a pressing invitation to dismount from my donkey and accept refreshments. It is habitual in the better families to keep open hospitality at their doors, and outside as well as inside, by providing broad divans made of wicker, whereon friends and strangers may re- pose. I seated myself in their midst and was immediately served with coffee. No women were visible, for the Cop- tic women, though Christian, are almost as shut-in from the outer world as their Moslem sisters, always veiled when out of doors, and wear the same costume. Only within their houses may they see strangers unveiled, and they are extremely, even painfully, shy. The means of instruction is sadly lacking among them, though we met some who were well educated, intelligent, and interesting. The Coptic men are usually educated and often superior- minded. The principal attraction at Assouan in the way of ruins or monuments, is the great quarry of granite from whence were cut those gigantic obelisks which, by spoliation of Egypt, adorn the cities of Europe and America, and in whose climate they will soon crumble into ruin. Paris, London, New York, and Rome, have a great debt of resti- tution to make to Egypt, to history, and to the world. I THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. hope the restitution will be willingly and loyally made when the time comes and before it is too late. One afternoon, through the sand, on our faithful don- key, we rode to visit the great quarry, accompanied by our good Hamid, and an escort of about a hundred for we were obliged to let them follow us, reluctantly at first, not understanding the honor paid us, (what stupid people we white folks are!) by that troup of all colors and ages, even little tots, who had to be carried on the shoulders of their fathers, elder brothers, or neighbors. These pretty little bambins so carried, continually sent me kisses with their little dimpled hands. A few dark young girls of unmarriageable age joined in the procession, and both youths and old men vied with one another in walking next to me to hold my donkey's bridle and even to push and al- most carry him forward. A cluster of the little fellahs clung to his tail. No one asked for backsheesh. They were acting as became body-guards of the national troops, with full appreciation of the responsibility of hospitality, and respect for the lady left entirely to their care. For once in my life, I was rid of our effete civilization, and simply reveled in the simplicity of natural manners ! I rode out far over the rolling waste of sand, among the rocks of granite, which come to the surface here, stopping often to rest and hold conversation with my troops I told them that they could each ask me a ques- tion upon any subject they liked, and I would answer it. How they pressed in upon us ! the dragoman, donkey, and myself but without the least importunity all eager to question me. And what do you think was the burden of their inquiries? It was big rivers, mountains, the pro- ducts of the soil, harvests, steam engines, canals, the an- imals of different countries, snow, soldiers, steamboats, etc., and almost every one expressed the desire to go home and live with us, forever and without wages ! Not DONKEY-BOY S SIESTA. PREACHING IN THE DESERT. one asked me where they could best earn money, and not a foolish question among them all. But what astonished and pleased them most was when I told them how we be- lieved and prayed to the same God to their Allah and how, therefore, we were of the same family. Among these people of the desert, the nearest to nature, as well as among all Mussulmans of higher classes, it was very re- markable that above all other subjects, religion interested them most, though they seldom, if ever, broached the subject first, and are, therefore, never intrusive nor given to discussion and less to any attempt of proselyting. I also remarked how little to them is this life all their hope and confidence is in the life beyond. Everywhere I found a quick and intelligent conscience concerning all duties toward God. We found no indifferent believers nor in- \ fidels among this people. At last we reached the quarry and stood upon the great recumbent obelisk, three-quarters cut and polished, and fellow to the one which stands upon the Place de la Concorde in Paris. It lies obliquely horizontal, in a most difficult position for cutting, yet those ancient mathema- ticians compared to whom we are but pigmy pupils- knew measurements of geometry and trigonometry as well as algebra and astronomy, and made no mistake in cutting or transporting these gigantic stones, or laying them one upon the other with the precision of the stars. The lifting of heavy stones without machinery is a lost art. Some vandal Christian conquerors (I was glad it was not Napo- leon, for he destroyed enough in other lands, in all con- science!) have tried to cut this recumbent monarch in twain, but failed in time and tools. In spite of the oblique position of the monster mono- lith, one can sit or walk from one end to the other. Being more than half out of the sand, it offered me a solid high platform for speaking to my followers, who had not ceased 174 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. to beg me, through the dragoman, to "preach more" to them. Standing upon the great half-cut obelisk, with my dragoman beside me, translating sentence by sentence, I opened fire against theirs the little fire which almost every one carried in his mouth. They were visibly dis- concerted for these simple people evidently feel that by smoking they give proof of their participation in our modes of life the adoption of a higher culture, modern progress, etc., etc. I told them I had come from a distant country to breathe their delicious air, that I might be strengthened and cured, and then I asked them if it was right to attempt to change the designs of Allah, to which all protested. Then I explained how this air, which Allah made so pure, sweet, and healthful, became offensive and harmful, not only to me, but to many others, by the nauseating fumes of tobacco. I had not half finished my opening remarks before every cigarette before me had vanished. Then I cautioned them not to imitate our bad habits and vices, particularly of drinking strong drinks, but to reprove them, and keep unswervingly to their simplicity of life and the rectitude of true believers. They were enthu- siastic in their approbation, and when I had finished, the great majority pressed around me and declared they would smoke no more. I hope you have kept your promise, my good fellahs! Perhaps I shall go and see, some day. . . .1 know you will remember me and I shall always remember you. After many supplications to come to them again, and my promise, that if God willed it, I should do so, I sent them all away; but they were reluctant to leave me, and it was only when Hamid told them I wanted to be alone to pray, that they decided to go, which they did at once with religious respect. Then I told my dragoman to go also, but to await me where the first blades of grass begin on the confines of the desert. He was more reluc- PREACHING IN THE DESERT. tant than the regular troop knowing my limited strength and said I was in his care as a legal dragoman, and his honor was at stake ! But when I told him that I was in the care of One above all dragomen, he joined the retiring forces but with a sad look and unwilling gait. Then I went out into the desert alone, and preached. My audience was a chosen one our own sons, and our own people in the great cities of Europe and America ; for they have far more need of simple, divine truth than these Moslems of the desert ! I cried to God for mercy upon us all; and I wept there alone, prone on the senseless sand of the great desert, and in bitterness of soul for the sins of Christians who in their hot race after gold, position, and the satisfaction of all earthly lust, were misleading un- believers and plunging humanity deeper and deeper into perdition ! Long I lay there in the beautiful sand, my soul revel- ling in the soft silence and communing with the unseen world, far from home, from every land, from everybody until from out the soundless desert, there seemed to come a voice saying: "Weep and pray! weep and pray!" And then in deeper tone, "but also believe and trust! for My mercy endureth forever !" Slowly, all unawares, there came into my soul a great calm ; then I felt the cool breeze of nightfall coming upon me in benediction, and I was lifted up, as with strong and tender hands, and walked on and on ankle deep in the yielding sand so glad, Oh ! so glad to be for once in my life, absolutely alone outside of all human sights or sounds outside of civilization, outside of everybody; and Oh, rarest and best of all outside of myself! my poor mis- erable human self my soul alone with the Infinite. . . . I had come in bitterness. I had come at last at last! where all my life I had longed to be; alone with God! After the long and holy communion, I arose. And I, 176 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. who was so weak, now felt so strong that it seemed to me that I could have walked straight across that great stretch of sand to the Red Sea, and through it, as did Israel of old, and up through the wilderness to Sinai to kiss the rock from which the Tables of the Law were taken ! Those tables of stone were broken, and lost, for they were the Letter, the material,- human, stone Letter; but that Law which governs the whole civilized world, and will govern until the end of time, will not perish, for it is the Spirit of God! And this half-buried obelisk, and all this precious quarry of granite, may be covered up and forgotten in the accumulating sands of the desert ; but the Idea of a Personal and Living God, which was first re- vealed to the human mind here in Egypt, and to whom those gigantic works of man in erected stone, pointing upward, first indicated will remain with that Spirit- forever ! Thus I pondered and wandered through the great solemn desert. . . . Anon, by my lengthened shadow, into which I was walking, I knew the day was waning, and I must turn back. I had told Hamid that if he did not see me return- ing half an hour after the sun had set, he might come to seek me, for then I should be lost, which I was half de- sirous of being and spending the night alone upon the desert waste beneath the stars: a whole sleepless night- long of contemplation with the unpeopled earth, and the peopled stars ! Ah ! that would indeed be worth the wait- ing and longing for all these years and the coming to Egypt! But the thought of the dear, anxious heart and the despair of my faithful dragoman who had said all he dared to, to dissuade me from thus going off alone, pre- vented me. As the sun's great disk dropped slowly down through PREACHING IN THE DESERT. 177 the golden atmosphere and touched the horizon, I was seized with an indescribable, but ecstatic awe which made me tremble in every limb. The twilight is short in this tropical latitude, and soon, from out the deep blue firma- meflt, the stars burst forth in such suddenness and splen- dor that it already seemed midnight! And now as I mounted a huge wave of sand, the evening breeze which rises from off the Nile at sunset, came to me in such grate- ful suggestion, that I felt the beating wings of those very angels who bore my glorious Patron, Saint Catherine of Alexandria, when she was broken and dead, across the desert, and across the sea, up to Mount Sinai ! So exalted was my soul, that my feet had long since ceased to move, and I stood still, or rather I was upheld for my own volition had vanished but the angels her angels were keeping me company. . . . How long it was I know not, but they found me Hamid and the scouring troop as I knew they would, and once on the back of the faithful donkey, who made me glad salaams with his long silken ears, we went back slowly across the sand, slowly through the shadowy night-fall, to the banks of the Nile, 'and into the silent city, and I happier for the rest of my life, leaving the soundless desert to the stars and to Eternity which will be richer and grander for this Holy Communion with God on the earth. . . . But if it be possible, as the legend of Saint Catherine tells, I pray Her Angels to carry me when I die, over that waste of sand at night-fall, when the stars are coming out ; over that spot where I prayed in the desert alone. . . . CHAPTER XX. PHILAE. SHOOTING THE CATARACT. DOWN THE NILE. LUXOR. KARNAK. WE are at the first cataract, and at the farthest point of our journey in Africa. Now you must come with us, kind reader, to Philse, and loiter among its beauti- ful temples, wander among its long rows of columns and pylons covered with gigantic figures and hieroglyphics in intaglio; and visit the chamber where Isis gave birth to Horus, and then ( such is human nature still .....') go and lunch with us in the exquisite temple called the Bed of Pharaoh, and help me no ! I prefer to do it alone, as there is an immeasurable and intimate personal satisfac- tion in it: see me break into a thousand pieces (and there is immense consolation in numbers . . . . ) the bottles of wine which a fool of a traveller, not of our party, gave to the native guides ! Philse is a short hour's ride on the miniature railway from Assouan: 600 miles above Cairo. We spent the whole day among its beautiful ruins and then, just as the downward sun began to gild the waves, the rocks and the backs of the plunging natives, we shot the cataract! We were five passengers and twelve boatmen. The pushing off was quiet and the entrance into the current calm. Then, with holden breath, we plunged into the whirling tide among the rocks, and then sped into a smoother sea, joining in the refrain of the Moslem boat- PHILAE. DOWN TNE NILE. 1 79 men, who could not make the boat plunge and leap from crest to crest of the whirling waves without calling upon Allah for help. And this is the refrain they chanted in their low monotone Arabic rhythm, as they neared the rapids : "Allah! Allah! make our arms strong, Allah! Allah! make our arms strong, Allah! Allah! make our arms strong, And prepare us for this perilous leap!" Then when we plunged into the whirlpools, the refrain changed, and with a deeper accent they all sang forth anew keeping their eyes on the great boulders, threatening rocks, and menacing waves: "Allah ! Allah ! now we are in the midst of danger, Guide us and help us, or we are lost ! O Allah ! Allah !" Not a word was spoken, save the refrain, growing deeper and deeper from out their heaving breasts and con- vulsive lips, as they bent with bare knotted backs, legs and arms to their perilous duty. The captain was a youth of only eighteen, but being the son of the most skilled boat- man of the Rapids, he inspired the confidence of all. So intense was his attention that he could only join in the closing and the opening words of the refrain, and with him we all joined, and in prayerful sincerity, "Allah! Al- lah!" for all felt the peril, as well as the solemnity of the moment and the grandeur of the circumstance. Then, when at last the heavy boat began to right herself and the water began to cease its perilous whirl and fall into smoother, yet swifter current, the voices lapsed into a slower and softer refrain, and ran thus: "Allah ! Allah ! to Thee who has brought us out of great peril We render grateful thanks O Allah! Allah!" ISO THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. We gave the boatmen oranges and fruit to refresh them after their arduous pull, and they thanked us very kindly but put all aside untasted, for they were keeping a fast. Our admiration far exceeds our pity. Men of toil and meagre fare, who have such control over their appetites, are superior men, however humble their station may be. And between our admiration of God's work in rocks, and rivers, and earth, and sky, and His Grace in the hearts of men who keep His commandments, we give Him greater thanks for this latter and diviner mystery. Down the Nile Luxor. The next day we betook ourselves to the fine new steamer, the "Cleopatra," and started down the Nile, heart-sick at leaving Assouan and the great disputed and mysterious regions of Africa behind us. We had been tempted to go farther, at least to the second cataract, but rumors of advancing dervishes had brought fear, and Cook's Company refused to take trav- ellers any higher up. In a few years hence we shall have a direct route a line of travel from Paris to the great Ethiopian capital if other Christian sovereigns do their duty as does the great Coptic Emperor, Menelik. May Heaven bless him! Our going down to the boat was something of a fu- neral procession. The Governor, many Moslems, Copts, and other Christians came to see us off. Good-bye, Upper Egypt ! Long we sighted Assouan seated on her high bank, and lighted up by the golden afternoon sun, as the fast- flowing river bore us downward inward, into the lower world. PHILAE. DOWN THE NILE. l8l Note from Pcrc Hyacinthc's Journal. ist February, 1896. "We leave Assouan with heavy hearts. Emilie has had a veritable propa- ganda nothing sectarian, but religious. She preached among these people, who grouped around her everywhere, in the bazars, in the houses, in the streets, and out in the desert. The women riot only welcomed her, but drew her into their houses. All these people are docile and good, and any one who would come among them in the same spirit with which my dear wife- is actuated, would accomplish a marvelous work. "I greatly regret not being able to penetrate farther into the heart- of Africa. I could easily fix my dwelling-place here were it not for the furnace heat in the summer. I am tired of the false civilization of Europe. A large part of the belongings of our civilization might be destroyed without the least detriment to us but rather a profit. Let each one destroy, or at least cease to make use of our detrimental superfluities !" A voyage on the Nile is perhaps the most agreeable in the wide world; but there are some people who do not, cannot enjoy, nor appreciate it. And I do not hesitate to say that it is not the best "outing" for a business man, who has little taste for quiet and meditation. A walking trip, with mountains to climb, were better for him. But what numberless lessons, and often sad ones, does a voyage reveal in this long and close companion- ship on ship-board! I shall never forget one poor little, dying wife who had been brought here to be cured of heart-break; they called it consumption, and who only consented to come with the hope of curing her hus- band of his consumption of alcohol, by getting him away from the temptation of the great cities and hotel life. But alas! she found the facilities for gratifying the direful lust far greater on the steamer than on land; for here the alcoholic victim is shut in with the demon! One day as this repulsive victim rolled out of his cabin, where he had slept the w r hole afternoon, calling from time to time to the steward for "something to drink" and then ridiculing the man with coarse and profane words because he, being a Mussulman, declined the invitation to 1 82 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. drink with him. His wife, who had unbosomed her sor- row to me, said one day as we were looking at an ancient tomb in the rocks of the near shore: "Oh, how I wish I were only in there, and that the Nile would come in and cover me up forever !" Opposite this American couple at the table, sat another couple who bore a noble English name. The husband was very pale and haggard, the wife was red and full of health. She drank frequent and long draughts from a bottle which bore upon its label "Old Scotch Whiskey." That told the sad story, which was already surmised by the passengers the saddest, perhaps, of all domestic tales : He, poor man, drank milk and gall. . .All pitied him, and were ashamed of her. Yet she was, as she averred, "a good church- woman," and was quite put out because, on Sunday, we did not have the "regular" English service, saying a'nd reiterating, forward, aft, and amidships, that "we had lost a splendid occasion of setting a good example not only to the freethinkers travelling, but also to the poor be- nighted Mussulmans in attendance, for" (as she truly said) "though they cannot understand our language, they can see and learn by example!" We cannot refrain from expressing a sincere wish that Messrs. Cook and Son will, at no distant day, banish from their truly great enterprise all traffic in alcoholic drinks ; allowing good and pure wine only on their boats. At Luxor again ! And there is Achmed on the landing with all our carriers about him, their dark faces radiant with joy. We visited the great temple and the market ; and, much as I like these grand old ruins, I confess that I took more interest in the people. What a world between the then and now. Yet this native race is but little modified by the long centuries and human nature remains about the same. As we went through the strange market and saw PHILAE. DOWN THE NILE. 183 the various grains and fruits, poured out upon the ground no sacks, bins, nor baskets, we thought of the well- stored corn of Pharaoh's enterprising steward. The Jews always knew how to work; and labor is a preservative of the individual, of nations, and races. What struck me most perhaps in their implements was their loom : a few sticks stuck in the ground a lot of strings and a shuttle, the weaver sitting on the earth, using toes as well as fingers to make the woolen and cotton stuffs. I found here a most curious advance upon us : they do their mend- ing by weaving with their looms, making old, ragged, worn-out shawls and other stuffs "a'most as good as new/' Donkeys, camels, and babies were all mixed up in kindly relationship, never disputing or quarrelling. The grave sheiks moved about as fathers among their children, and are known by their superior dress. Occasionally we see a green turban, which indicates that the wearer is a des- cendant of the Prophet, or has made the pilgrimage to Mecca and thus becomes a Hadj. Our dragoman took me to visit his wife and see his house which he had built himself: a "modern house" as he said. The English clergyman had advanced money to help him complete it, which money he was now working hard to pay back. Achmed is a young man of twenty-five, and is not only a most conscientious and excellent drago- man, but is a growing citizen. He speaks English and attends the English church, though a faithful Moslem. This is indeed one of the most un-Christian traits of Mo- hammedans that they have no prejudice against people because of their religion. They frequently attend other places of worship, and have friendly intercourse with other believers than their own, and profound respect for all re- ligions. In fact, they give to all what they demand for themselves: absolute liberty of religious opinion and free- dom in worship. There is no rivalry between them and 184 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. other believers, because there is no competition they be- ing perfectly convinced of the absolute superiority of their religion, with which they are perfectly content. To judge by the examples they see of Christian conduct or rather misconduct it would not be surprising nor, perhaps, blameworthy if they entertained some prejudice against the Christian faith as they too often find it practised. I made a long visit to Achmed's wife and mother ; and after giving much advice to the women, he thanked me most warmly, for he felt, as Moslems generally do, the need of some degree of culture for their women. Then he said earnestly : "Now tell me w r hat to do, and I will do it !" So I advised him to add something to the comfort of his home, and also to its beauty, as decoration of edifices is among the lost arts with the feleen. First of all I told him to whitewash his dun, desert - colored walls. Mosques alone are conscientiously whitewashed every year. Un- like the feleen, the Arabs, with whom remains something of their ancient civilization, have scrupulously white walls, as with them, cleanliness is a part of godliness. Then I showed my man how to put up shelves instead of cords for his clothing and bedding, though as he quietly re- marked, "the cords are better for airing/' which is a cap- ital point with all these people, whose bedding and carpets are scrupulously clean. I explained that he could use both, giving a good airing on the terrace in the morning, and putting all things well folded up on the shelves in the afternoon, all of which he explained to his wife, and she to the other women of the family and to the neighbors who had quietly dropped in. Housekeeping with them is neither a fine art nor a science only a necessity, and is done principally by the men. I expatiated at length upon the health, beauty, and tidiness of our American homes even among the humblest, insisting upon the necessity of women doing their part of the housework, thus striking a mean PHILAE. DOWN THE NILE. 185 level between them who do little and the poor American wife who does all. Of course I here brought in the model French husband, who, in case of necessity, knows how to make a pot-au-feu, a ragout, or roti, as well as cafe-au-lait. I kept silence, however, as becoming a Christian, concern- ing those other lands which are neither French, English, nor American, where the "level" is so mean that women are harnessed with dogs, donkeys, and cows as beasts of burden; while (and now I beg indulgence because of righteous w r rath!) while their "beastly" husbands (here I use good English . . . . ) spend their time and money in smoke and drink : pipes and beer .... Then Achmed showed me with pride his library, "for," he said, "I am determined to learn all the languages." It consisted of half a dozen books, which were mostly Eng- lish guide books, one French, some pamphlets, and a Bible. Though he was a staunch Moslem, unlettered and unlearned, he, more than most Christian theologians, quite understood the unity of Divine Truth between the Bible and the Koran, and above all the unity of love and charity between men. After this befitting digression, I will continue my jour- ney by saying that a short time after our return to France I received a well-written English letter from our good dragoman at Luxor, informing me that his house was "washed white" as I had advised, and that he would plant the promised trees and flowers as soon as he could; and moreover, his neighbors were following his example. Then the climax of all this good news was what he said he knew would rejoice my heart and it did; a son was born to him ! Upon our return to Cairo, Nubar Pasha said to me one day: "''I am sure if you had your own desire you would take a whole cargo of Bibles, and scatter them along the l86 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Nile only you must remember none of the people could read them !" I replied: "Yes, I would take the Bibles, but as most of the people know their Koran which is their Bible by heart, I would first take several cargoes of quicklime and brushes, then a cargo of schoolmasters and mistresses to teach the people to read before sending to Beyrout or Oxford for the Arab Bibles. Thus I would do what Your Excellency, during your government of Egypt, for forty years, never thought of doing nor have your successors !" The great Prime Minister was not offended; but, lifting his fez a moment, as if to cool his prodigious head, replied, in his serious, thoughtful way: "Ah! that's an American way of doing missionary work and it is a good one Yes, whitewash would be a good beginning." Karnak. We stopped at Karnak for several days on our return voyage, that we might have a daylight visit to these grand- est ruins on the Nile. Monsieur George Legrain, the dis- tinguished French explorer and inspector of Egyptian An- tiquities, invited us to spend a day with him at the ruins, to which he wished to be our guide. We found him com- fortably settled in a nice little house of his own building, in the shadow of the great temple; and a charming place it was such a "compound'' of Egyptian and French art and sicence, which obtained even in the cuisine by his fellah cook, who gave us a most excellent dejeuner a la Frangaise with a far-away flavor of Pharaoh's table Monsieur Legrain has the defect of being a bachelor, but usually invites a compatriot, artist, archaeologist, or historian, to share his table. During our visit a circum- stance occurred which capped the climax of an eventful day. Over our fragrant cup of Mokka, and while he was PHILAE. DOWN r . NILE. A ^ ,.. c '^IF ( recounting how, by a singular coincidence, he was born on the very day of the last great earthquake, which brought such a destruction to the temple of Karnak; as if, as he said, he were "sent into the world providentially at the very moment of the disaster to repair its ruins"; and we said "to lead to further discoveries"; his chief overseer of excavations, a. devoted and intelligent fellah, sud- denly appeared in our midst, bringing the good news that that very hour the two long-sought altars of the two rival deities, of Upper and Lower Egypt, had been unearthed ! The unfeigned joy of all can be imagined and the ex- plorer cried out, turning to us and clasping our hands: "Oh, it is you! You have brought to-day an immense blessing to Karnak!" We certainly participated in his great satisfaction. Through the long delicious hours of that memorable day we wandered and pondered among the majestic tem- ples sublimer, perhaps, in their ruin than in their perfec- tion. But I shall not belittle them, nor myself, by any at- tempt at their description. I will only mention a recent and marvelous discovery of Monsieur Legrain the bas- relief of Isis nursing Horus, her infant king, whose ex- quisite beauty and delicacy reminds us of the Virgin and Child of Raphael and would do him honor, had he ever dreamed in stone. But verily the gods lent hands as well as inspiration to the Pharaohs. And how like pygmies are we, the gapers of to-day the lookers-on of these stupendous achieve- ments of the giants five thousand years away! And though we have lost the art of building Titanic temples, we have learned after this long lapse of time to wonder at and appreciate them. Our day in this the grandest tem- ple of Thebes will ever remain fixed among our happiest days in this wondrous land; but our midnight visit to Karnak will remain the most memorable of all. CHAPTER XXI. THEBES. THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS. THE COLOSSI. IN the early, cool morning, before the long rays of the rising sun had glinted the Nile, we started for the Mysterious City, hidden among the Libyan hills: the city of the great dead : the tombs of the Egyptian kings, those mighty monarchs of the greatest empire of the then known world, who dwelt in this proud and magnifi- cent capital of Egypt the metropolis of the world The- bes. In the centuries of its grandeur, its bounderies included Luxor and Karnak ; indeed the horizon with the Arabian mountains in the east, and the Libyan mountains in the West, marked its circumference, the great mystic river flowing between. Herodotus, Diodorus, Homer, Strabo, and hundreds, thousands of other competent travellers and historians, have written of its power and magnificence. It is, therefore, becoming that I say but little. Monsieur Edouard Naville of Geneva, the distin- guished director of the Egyptian Exploration Company, who is excavating the finest works yet unearthed in this pregnant soil, marked out our route and expected us for an afternoon tea amid the ruins of Deir-el-Bahari. We were eager for the great day before us. Achmed was early at the door to make preparations, and when we went down to the court, there they stood in double line: my faithful carriers of Karnak, all with smiling faces and THEBES. TOMBS OF KINGS. THE COLOSSI. 189 reiterated salaams twelve of them with donkey-boys; Achmed the Generalissimo. Off we were with exhilarating alacrity down the loamy bank to the Nile and over its dark rapid waters in a barge, up the opposite side and across that wide fertile plain, rich with its spring verdure; my husband on a donkey, I in a chaise-d-porteurs on the shoulders of -the stalwart natives. Soon the low straight rays of the ardent sun dispelled the lurking sheen in the soft atmosphere ; and the day boded fair. In passing the ruins of a temple we were so beset with venders and beggars, that it needed all Achmed's authority, with menacing gyrations of his cudgel-like cane (which, however, never fell) to protect us. And here it was that I made a purchase from a late rifled tomb an account of which I afterwards gave in a letter to the Presi- dent of the Archaeological Society of Egypt. (See chap- ter on Alexandria.) We rode along the great canal which is being dug here, and observed with interest and wonder the hundreds of natives at work carrying the earth up the steep banks in baskets on their heads most of them naked, save a shed of loin cloth. Scarcely an eye was raised to us, (for religion makes these naked fellahs polite gentlemen), yet some caught and answered our encouraging salutations. The canal looked like an immense furrow through a gigan- tic ant-hill. This was the corvee at work ; but how unlike those of horrid memory where the were pressed into hard labor without pay and without food ! Now they are well treated and have half a franc (ten cents) a day enough for them and their families to live upon. They are happy. On we went my carriers changing every five minutes without checking their sprightly gait or their low chant, in which I joined in spite of all attempts at silence. It helped them on, lessened my weight, and lightened my I9O THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. conscience and, what was also strange, it seemed to cure my sore throat from which I was suffering. There was exhilaration in the air, earth, and sky, which penetrated minds and bodies. At last we left the luxuriant herb-land and approached the grey barren hills, and finally, after a three hours' ride, we entered the Valley of the Tombs of the Kings. Valley of Desolation! Nothing but arid, ashen hills of rock on either side of a sinuous path of sand, shale, and pebbles, which led to the hidden city of the imperial mum- mies. Not a trace of man, bird, beast, or insect : Nothing of the present, and nothing of the past. Yet through that valley and down the centuries of death, and into this Home of the Awful and Eternal Silence, passed the sumptuous funeral pageants of the Pharaohs ! marching marching with steady, stately tread, into the inevitable Regions of Oblivion ! We were encompassed by a palpable and ominous pres- age of woe. Nothing but the ponderous silence compressed between the grey encroaching hills. The blue sky grew strange, hard, and forbidding, like the leaden cover of a granite sarcophagus. The heat was oppressive; and our exhilarated spirits flagged on heavy wings. After an hour's ride in this forlorn valley asking ourselves over and over again, if it were indeed possible to find any trace of human beings within this lost and desolate waste, at last, Achmed, who had long since ceased to speak- as the carriers had ceased to chant but who had kept close beside me, pointed to a small opening in the face of the mountain; an opening as if some unskilled laborer had made a niche in the rock wherein to hide his tools. Then he said, with bated breath: "Here we are!" Still riding on, scarcely able to breathe the hot stifling air, we discovered other cavernous openings or unpre- tending doors in the rock. We felt a strange cerebral op- THEBES. TOMBS OF KINGS. THE COLOSSI. pression and all seemed unreal, and I began to long to creep into somebody's anybody's tomb out of the burn- ing heat ! At length we came to a large door, arched in solid masonry, and shut in with heavy iron grating. It was the entrance to the principal tomb : that of Seti I. Most grateful was that shadow in the entrance of this most royal of all tombs. Leaving our faithful carriers to rest and eat their luncheon, we did the same. Though I almost counted myself among the dead after that long ride and intense heat, I was convinced of being- still in human existence by a most painful thirst ; and never was I so grateful as for the delicious water brought by little children and old men all the way from the Nile in small earthen bottles, wrapt in woolen cloth, to keep them cool, and sold for a few farthings. With renewed strength and an hour's rest, with lighted torches, we entered the tomb. When once within the broad, high arched en- trance at the mouth of the cavernous corridor, cut in the solid stone, leading down an inclined plane we were seized with the formidable impression that we were dis- appearing from the visible world, and descending, though alive, into the regions of Death. But this first impression was not to be compared to what followed as we went on, from immense chambers to broad, endless corridors, some level and others descending; all hewn in the living rock. On the walls were innumerable carved and painted symbols of ancient Egyptian worship, with forms and fig- ures of deities, which, in the lurid flickering light of our torches, became living beings of another world. An awful silence fell upon us as we ventured further on into the dark dungeons of Death. And now the air had become so oppressive, I could scarcely breathe. My feet began to fail me, and soon refused to move I could go no farther. I begged to be left alone while the others continued the exploration. Reluctantly this request was accorded me 192 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. a taper being placed in my hand with injunctions not to move until my companions returned. Slowly they dis- appeared down the inclined corridor whose high vault was lost in the lugubrious darkness a ghostly procession going down into the regions of Oblivion. Soon a mortal terror seized me and I repented having asked to be left alone. It was too late. I would have called out but I had become speechless : tongue and lips refused to articu- late. I was buried alive within the adamantine bowels of the long-gone and forgotten past. The air which I made effort to breathe was dead; and I felt that I, too, should soon die. A paralyzing chilliness crept over me; my eyes could scarcely move in their sockets as they discerned vaguely in the scant light of my taper, that monstrous, long, hideous, undulating serpent which spanned the end- less walls just above the ground. I sank almost uncon- sciously down upon a stone step ; and, letting my taper fall from my frozen hand, it's flame was extinguished. The thick darkness became a heavy pall enveloping me in leaden folds.... That hour which I passed alone in the tomb of Pharaoh was one of the most formidable of my life ! I passed from life into death and from thence into Eternity! At last they returned and carried me back into the broad, bright day, and into existence. The reaction was rapid, and I was soon myself again. While my husband was recovering from his fatigue and emotion in the small shadow of the barren mountain, I held, at the entrance of the tomb, and in no sacrilegious way, my usual conference with the men who were joined by other later arrivals ; and all were attentive and eager to hear. We were to return over the mountain. The ardent sun was in its first decline; and, as I scanned the upward steep, I told Achmed that it was impracticable, if not im- possible, to carry me up (for I am of no mean proportions) ; THEBES. TOMBS OF KINGS. THE COLOSSI. 193 but, with one accord, those devoted fellows declared that if I were twice or thrice my weight, and the mountain as steep again, they would carry me up and never feel tired ! and I half believed them those dark-browed, kind- hearted men! In spite of my misgivings we started ; but I must con- fess that my heart held high riot during that long hour's tug of those faithful fellahs, much of the time on their hands and knees in the shifting sand, and constantly shift- ing me from shoulder to shoulder without stopping for that was impossible. To stop was danger, and perhaps death, for us all. I was obliged to look upward and far away, never downward into the sheer precipice, lest I should be seized with vertigo. The faithful guide con- stantly cried: "Look up! look up!" So it falls sometimes in life; when we must cross an abyss of sorrow, or scale a mountain of trial, we must keep our eyes upward; and when we are unable to go by ourselves, we must be content to be carried by The Stron- ger. Yet nothing, not even the stern injunction of our care- ful dragoman, could prevent me, at every turn, from cast- ing a glance behind to see if the cher Pere were safe and following with his four guides. He was on foot, as only weak women are carried over this difficult pass. My anx- iety was intense as he suffers from vertigo at the least elevation, and now he was on the very edge of the preci- pice all the way ! His peril dispelled all fears for myself. The strong, careful guides kept strictest watch of him every moment of the ascent, and put themselves constantly between him and the danger, often holding up a bournous to hide the near abyss. Good faithful Egyptians ! I shall never forget their devotion in that awful passage over the tombs of their dead kings! [Another object lesson: In life's emergency a live fellah is better than a dead Pha- raoh!] 194 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. At last we came to where I could be put down and wait for the slower traveller. The joy of meeting alive was worth the perilous ascent ! It was second only to getting into Heaven after a hazardous life and agonizing death! Now began the unfolding of the Thebian hills the far- away plains and nearer valleys; and soon afterward- skirting the long ledge of rock which formed a platform just over where they sleep, we were at the summit, with the wonderful panorama at our feet stretching away to the north and south and across the vast plain where stood the mighty city of the Hundred Gates, now marked only by the ruins of Karnak and Luxor on the opposite horizon. We rested here a long time, breathing the rare crystalline air and joining in that interminable human caravansera whose past history lies hidden beneath that deep alluvial soil of the fast-flowing river. From this sublime pinnacle, one obtains the finest view of the marvelous valley of the Nile. We longed to linger but the sun would not make a halt. The descent was less perilous, but physically far more painful for us all man and beast. In an hour's time, however, we were taking our five-o'clock tea with Mon- sieur Edouard Naville in his tent-house amid the exquisite ruins of Queen Hatasu's Temple, built by the great woman king, 1600 B. C. Of all the discoveries in Egypt, this temple is perhaps the finest in delicate carving and color- ing. Among the strange circumstances of this never-to- be-forgotten day, was finding the tall youth we used to see daily, about quarter of a century ago, hurrying through the streets of Geneva with his books under his arm, to his college now our host, amid the marvelous antiquities he has unearthed; and with him we sat down amidst the (lust of the centuries, and the ashes of the Pharaohs, uniting our whole finite world, from Hongkong to Lon- don, Paris, Geneva, and Thebes, in a steaming tea-pot! I, personally, am happy and proud that Monsieur Na- THEBES. TOMBS OF KINGS. THE COLOSSI. ville has disclosed the historical fact, in unveiling this beautiful temple, that there were in those days of old, also, great women who were queens. And I am still happier and prouder that the great queens of our day are not forced, or induced, into the unwomanly subterfuge of mannish travesty!* The Colossi. The great shadow of the mountain had long enveloped the half unearthed temple, and covered the broad court and terrace with its sombre mantle, stealthily leaping from step to step down the broad stair-case which leads to the avenue of the Sphinxes, and was extending rapidly across the plain toward the Nile, when we, at last, said au re- voir to our host and started back to Luxor five miles away. Our carriers were refreshed, and all were eager for the return. Though they started off with a trot, they could not catch the receding sunlight. It was, therefore, in the mysterious shadows of the fast-falling twilight that we passed the Colossi, sitting out there, in the midst of the deserted plains of Thebes, in their unspeakable loneliness : this gigantic couple in stone. One is Memnon, who every morning, when the rising sun-god salutes him with his ardent love, sends forth a low, tremulous reply. In the silence of the Egyptian twilight, amid the cool rich verdure which spreads about them a sacred carpet, woven by Nature's mystic loom meet for the feet of the *As I am correcting this proof, to-day, April 30, 1905, in the city of Lyons, France, here comes a communication from Professor Naville descri- bing his recent discovery, over against Luxor; of an Egyptian temple of the Xlth dynasty, a thousand years before that of the woman-king, Hatasou, in which is the tomb of a negress Princess. [With this news comes to my mind this query: Who knows but that ten thousand years hence, negro explorers from Central Africa, while digging among the ruins of our great white marble capitol at Washington, may not unearth the golden tomb of a woman a negress ruler of the whole American continent named "Victorious" be- cause of the equity of her reign Who knows?] 196 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. pilgrims who seek the land where the Unique Deity was discovered, and for the knees of all who adore Him, we stood in awe at their feet with our faces turned to the East and our hearts toward the West. . . . Silence silence Ah! how these men of Egypt know how to keep it! hug it to their hearts and within their souls ! and through ages and ages down-trodden or as- piring .... And the stars look down as ever .... and beyond them Oh ! beyond them .... As my faithful carriers lifted me gently, affectionately, (miserable Christian that I am!) on their shoulders kiss- ing my garments, I felt myself an integral part of that yoke which has lain so long, and heavily, on their necks ; and looking up to the accusing stars, I cried out into the Egyptian night in my own native tongue: "O God, have pity upon them and punish us ! As we moved on in the darkening shadows, so quickly fell the night, that I could now only distinguish the tur- baned heads of my dusky carriers, and ever and anon, against the sky, a great noiseless body passed by: camels, with their burdens, returning from the market city. Then came the gentle admonitions of the herding shepherds with their returning flocks. At last we descried the distant lights of Luxor and on on we went, over the redolent earth; and then, I felt the men's fatigue, and heard in their hard, rhythmic, deep breathing, a moan, almost a groan. With a poignant self-accusation I began to do the only 'thing possible: to chant, in their soft Arab tones, the litany that I had learned. Immediately they all took it up and my conscience was lightened, and I believe my body also, as was theirs for they sprang on with renewed celerity. When I told them how I felt for their fatigue, they all protested ener- getically and declared they would be happy to carry me all night, and every day, if I would only come back to them THEBES. TOMBS OF KINGS. THE COLOSSI. again. This was their constant refrain which Achmed translated to me: "O Allah, Allah ! bring back this lady to us, For she is our mother. Allah! Allah! She goes away to-morrow and we shall weep without a mother ! Allah ! Allah !" At last we felt the herbs and grass were passed and that we were on the sand. Now we descended the banks, and there, under the bright star-light lay the broad, steel- black Nile shot across with flashing reverberations of the gas-lights of Luxor ! Then, after carrying us in their arms to the broad flat boats, they carried the donkeys also and we were soon across the dark tide and our star-day in Egypt was ended. CHAPTER XXII. RETURN TO CAIRO. IT was with infinite regret that we quitted the steamer at Cairo ; and had it been possible, we would have re- turned making another trip without going ashore. But we were soon, however, enveloped in that delirious pande- monium; and the streets, houses, and people, all seemed to welcome us back again, and before we had time to col- lect ourselves to say nothing of trappings we were set- tled in the quiet and comfortable Villa Victoria, in the midst of its large garden, turning our thoughts to other things of such engrossing and happy nature, that we were forced to let the Nile run out of our minds. Now w r e must seek some of the living monuments. Pere Hyacinthe was received by the Khedive whom he found cordial in manners, intelligent, highly cultivated, and possessing large views of reform and progress, with an ardent desire for the moral elevation, as well as the material prosperity of his people. After His Highness, there was one above all others, interesting and famous, and who could open Egypt to our study not a Pharaoh, but a Joseph; the keeper of the King's granaries, and the interpreter of royal dreams: Nubar Pasha. We already knew him in Paris, where he usually goes every summer; and if we did not know that he was an Egyptian, and an Armenian, we should certainly think him a Frenchman ; so perfectly is he at home in our tongue, RETURN TO CAIRO. 1 99 land, literature, laws, and customs; and I was happy to find him as much at home in my native tongue as that of my husband. All who know the history of modern Egypt know the life of Nubar Pasha, and what he has done for the estab- lishment of justice, law, and order in Egypt, where he has been Prime Minister for so many years frorrr Mo- hammed Ali to Abbas Pasha the present Khedive. His- tory will know how to appreciate this benefactor of a sorry people in its travail of a new birth! In retiring recently from public life, because of his advanced age, he can yet serve his country and the world, if he would only consent to publish his memoirs which he has given us to read in manuscript.* At his hospitable table in Cairo and on his broad ve- randa, he frequently spoke to us for hours of his most interesting life and experience, as well as of the ancient and modern history of Egypt. He was born in 1825 in Smyrna, of an Armenian family, who had fled there sev- eral generations before from persecution. His palatial residence, though in the midst of Cairo, is surrounded by a vast garden filled with stately palms and other great trees, making it a paradise for those who walk and talk there unmolested by the outer world. He has great riches, but his dwelling is as sober and simple as his character, We met many entertaining people at his house and at his table, and learned much more than we ever knew before of the prodigious efforts made by this rare statesman to * I sit by his side to-day, (July 4, 1897), in his home in Paris, as he talks to me of all this ; and the great Webster-like head is bowed with accumulated years and labor and there, as he reclines in his deep armchair, it is not the old man, certainly, but the man ripe in all human experience the strong man suffering; and like a lion at bay: for there's an enemy in the jungle, ap- proaching silently, steadily, and the king knows it but he makes no defence why should he?. . . .The sombre Nile flows down steadily into the great blue sea laving the monument of Egyptian granite on which will be graven deep NUBAR PASHA. 200 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. place Egypt upon a living and prosperous basis. When I asked him a bout portant the crucial question: "How long are the English going to remain in Egypt?" he pointed to his foot which he had injured some time before, and upon which he was forced to wear a steel-braced boot; "Well," he replied, " I don't know how long I must wear that iron clamp upon my foot, but this I do know, that I could not walk unless I wore it." Voila! the statesman and diplomat. Not only history and politics, but the great religious questions and their bearings were topics of our conver- sation. One day when we were upon the dogmatic divi- sions of the Oriental churches, which is a tangled topic to those not ready in the matter; the great statesman turned to Pere Hyacinthe and said: "Eh bien! mon Pere, I want you, who are a Doctor of Theology, to tell me just what I am as an Armenian." The Pere though somewhat taken aback at this strange and most unexpected question replied with equal frankness : "Why, you are a Eutychian." "Well," said the Pasha meditatively, "that, I suppose, means to believe a good deal." "Yes," rejoined the Pere, "and, although you are a political leader and statesman rather than a theologian, you believe more than I do, who am, however, thoroughly orthodox." "Oh, oh!" said His Excellency, "and how is that?" The Pere continued, "While I believe in the dual na- ture of Christ: Human and Divine; you believe only in the Divine." "Well," replied the Pasha slowly, musingly, and with reverent deference, "I thank you." That ended the dogmatic conversation.* *Eutyches, a Greek Hierarch of Constantinople., in the fifth century, taught that Christ possessed but one nature: the human being absorbed by RERURN TO CAIRO. 2OI Another living monument was Arnim Pasha, the Di- rector of Public Instruction. As the question of the education of women is one which interests us everywhere, and especially in Egypt, we asked Nubar Pasha concerning what was being done. "Come again to-morrow and breakfast with us," he replied, "and I will make you acquainted with Arnim Pasha, the man who is doing more than any one else for schools in Egypt." We found Arnim Pasha a man in the prime of life; and, like his host, a learned and distinguished Egyptian of Armenian extraction. He was perfectly acquainted with all French methods of public education, its excellence and its defects, and was also well informed as to our American superiority in public schools. He will certainly not attempt to impose upon the Egyptian youth the great- est of all the faults in the French system of education from the primary up to the Humanity colleges "cram- ming"- (we have no other word in English to express the full meaning of the French sur menage.) He would do well to go farther and find better in the American sys- tem, and I told him so. A day was fixed, and Arnim Pasha took me to visit the two girls' schools in Cairo. One was. founded several years ago, and has a French Matron at its head. It has, I think, about 500 pupils, Moslems, Christians, and Jew- esses, all of the best classes of the people. There were several under-teachers of different European nationalities, and most of the essential studies of girls' education, in- cluding housekeeping and needlework, were well taught: the lace- work, and linen and gold embroideries being of the very finest. Many of these fine fabrics, which ladies from the divine ; and this remains the belief of the Armenian, Coptic, Syrian, and Abyssinian churches; although the council of Calcedony, in 451, condemned it. These churches are called Eutychian or Monophysite. [Happily the Gospel of Christ is stronger than men's dogmas, or the Councils; and will eventually unite what these have separated.] 202 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. all parts of the world come to purchase in Paris, do not know that it is done in the Orient, and much of it by fair fingers in the harems. In this school the French and English languages rank after the Arabic. The building is an immense old palace with gardens about it, so I suggested to the Pasha the teaching 'of gardening to the pupils, as all outdoor exer- cise for girls or women is absolutely lacking in Moslem countries. The spirit of this school seemed excellent like a large and loving family, the Matron or Directrice, was mother of them all, and the good Pasha was like a father. It was very touching to see all the pupils come out to meet him in the court as we arrived, kissing his hands with affection and respect. All were tidy and well- mannered. I must note one sad custom imported from Europe, and I note it, not only for the general readers, fathers, and mothers; but for any teachers and doctors who may read this. I speak of the murderous fashion of strangulation about the waist of women: the corset- vice. And I noticed in these schools that it was the nice little Christian girls who were most given to this vice. Of course I put in a forcible protest to the Pasha and to the teachers. After a very interesting hour we drove to the only other school in Cairo, which is on a modern and more advanced plan, though possessing fewer pupils. The col- lege is a fine, new and healthy building outside the crowded streets. At its head is a young English lady whose capa- bilities will doubtless make amends for her lack of years and experience. I am a severe critic, but I can say that this school would do honor even to America. One fact is incontestable : the remarkable intelligence of the Egyptian children. It is regrettable that the two public schools in Cairo at the present time (1896) are the only ones in Egypt! RETURN TO CAIRO. 2O3 The Khedive has, however, founded some private schools in Alexandria upon a wise and modern basis. But I am quite sure that in spite of the great prejudice of the people against allowing girls going from home to be educated, there will soon be more schools throughout the country for the youth of both sexes. The idea of education is entering into the minds of the parents, and ideas are the necessary precursor of ac- tion and growth, which wise corporations and government, as well as individuals, should take into account. From careful study and observation I am quite sure that if the English should make the least attempt to impose education of the children especially of the girls they would become less sympathetic than they are now. Preju- dice is a hard master, and is twin-companion of ignorance. We should remember that there is always a right way to do a right thing, and I am quite sure that in time there will not be lacking generous-minded men, and noble- hearted women, who will come forward to this crying need of education in Egypt. Such educators will be out- side of all political intrigue, governmental considerations, or sectarian aims, and do their duty in wise and charitable consideration for the social customs of the people, and in undisguised respect for their religious belief and prac- tices, being convinced that there is a necessity of broad- ening minds as well as rivers, of rapid communication of healthy ideas, as well as swift railroad transit, and of the cultivation of those virtues which make up the real value and happiness of a people as of equal importance with the four harvest-crops a year of succulent herbs for donkeys or surplus grain for exportation .... May we not wait over long for such instructors! The first condition to obtain happy results is confi- dence, on the part of Moslems ; confidence in the moral- ity as well as in the capability and disinterestedness of 2O4 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. those who come here as examples of a better civilization. And this can never be as long as English women matrons and young girls are seen at weddings, dinners, or social gatherings, with the upper part of the body shamefully exposed before Moslems, to whom to look upon nude women is a cardinal sin, and until these same women (w r ith already flushed faces) cease to call for "wine or sherry, if you please," at Moslem tables upon which there is only water ; all of which I have seen with inexpressible shame and disgust. As I write these last lines, sorrowfully, I look away to other lands of Islam, joyfully; where I have seen other English women and some were ladies of high degree, working hand in hand, heart to heart, with the humblest, carrying light and consolation, curing the sick, setting good example while eating common bread, drinking and giving the pure water of health and life, clothed in simple raiment and loving kindness; and upon whose non-de- collete shoulders was worn the sign of the Holy Cross .... Honor and glory to you, lovely Christian English wo- men, among the sublime and arid hills of Lebanon and elsewhere ! Not only remarkable men, but there are also remark- able Moslem women in Cairo, with some of whom I became acquainted; among whom was Her Highness the Prin- cess Nazli. But I will not venture here into Harem Life. I cannot, however, amidst all these remarkable people neglect to say we made the acquaintance of some most interesting Babists that remarkable sect of Protestant Moslems whose knowledge of the New, as well as the Old Testament, and, also, their evangelical life and con- duct, make one of the latest manifestations of an awaken- ing among the believers of the Orient. I wish to add, too, that after careful observation and study I believe that the tw r o principal evils in Islam are, RETURN TO CAIRO. 2O5 first, the seclusion of woman and her consequent exclusion 7rom intellectual development; and, secondly, the aug- mented Oriental somnolence and inactivity resulting from the general use of tobacco by both sexes. Her women are more secluded and incapable to-day than in the time of the Kalifs, when there were many learned women, poet- esses and wise counsellors of men at the head of jvvhom stand Kadisha and Aisha, the wives of Mahomet; and the positive decadence of Islamic power dates from the use of tobacco introduced, with other vices, by Chris- tians. And I must say that in view of the deplorable ex- amples of our pretended "higher civilization" which carries with it lower morals and diminished faith, I am not hasty in expressing regret at .the slowly accorded liberty given to Moslem women. The whole world Christianity, Israel, Islam, Pagan- ism, and Savagery are all victims by perverted appetite (the old vice of Adam) and through deplorable ignorance of the universal poisoning of the human race by nicotine. Tobacco affects moral, civil, domestic, and religious life by its direct action upon brain and heart troubling alike reason and affection the two factors of conscience low- ering its action and, therefore, lowering manhood. The different mentality and consumption of tobacco by the dif- ferent races, explain the different effects. Orientals, given to meditation rather than action, smoke double the quan- tity of tobacco compared to the robust, active Occidental; but his poisonous weed often contains less than one per cent, of nicotine, while that of the Occident, America and France, often contains seven per cent. Chemical extrac- tion of the deadly poison of three of these "best cigars" will kill a man ! The faith of the Christian is lessened by this empoisonment, that of the Mussulman remains firm in spite of it ! The most striking effect of tobacco is the obliteration of 2O6 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. moral perceptions, the diminution of natural affection, the failure to discern between colors, but far more grave the failure to discern between right and wrong, between truth and falsehood, love and passion, righteous ambition and rapacity and domination; given, as the first-fruits of the tobacco vice is disobedience of parents and law, lying, stealing, revolt, ruined health, blindness, ataxy, sterility, debauchery, infidelity, war, murder. Any one can verify those statements by personal ob- servation of their immediate surroundings (not forgetting hereditary inocculation) in hospitals, courts, and prisons. I have studied this question carefully for over half a century in Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, and I am convinced that the use of tobacc.o is the principal cause of the obliteration of religious faith and its accompanying degeneracy of the race as it is above all others the vice against nature : taking fire, with its fumes and its poison, into the human body; thereby profaning the Temple of the Holy Spirit ! CHAPTER XXIII. THE ENGLISH IN EGYPT. SENTINEL! what of the day? When we are called of duty or science to walk over a slumbering volcano, it is best to pass lightly and quickly. There are burning questions in political science over which we would do well to fly. Love, only, makes us linger in dangerous places. But it would be hypocritical if not un- just to seem to ignore these volcanic questions, and per- haps uncharitable to all who have an interest in them, particularly to those concerned in their resolution. I will, therefore, give my opinion (for what it is worth) of the "occupation" of Egypt by England, especially as I have so often been asked by those of all nations and races who cross our paths in these regions and particularly by the English and the Egyptians. In Egypt there are two questions put by everybody: "Have you seen the Pyramids?" and "What do you think of the English occupation?" I have already replied to the first. In replying to the second, I use the same argument to Mussulmans as to Christians, to Egyptians as to English: and I must say, my argument is such that so far I have had no logical re- joinder. It is this : If we believe in the Providence of God, which shapes the ends of individuals, peoples, and nations, we must believe that in due time that is, when the Egyp- tians are capable of taking care of themselves, they will 2O8 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. be led by that same Providence to have the opportunity of doing so. If it be true that "in the time of peace we must prepare for war" it is no less true that in time of oppression we must prepare for liberty. And liberty which does not stand for morals and justice, for peace and God, will fall into what is worse than any foreign occupation worse than slavery: anarchy and destruction! And even there where liberty bites the dust, as it does still, alas ! among some of the leading nations of the earth (and Christian nations stand first in the line) we must remember though we may not understand the mystery that God governs men by their misfortunes, sorrows, and sins, and He governs the world by the misgovernment of men. The fact is that Egypt called in England to help her in a terrible crisis and England came ; promising form- ally, however, that her occupation was only for a time. That was years ago. She still remains. And these per- tinacious Egyptians complain and say: "It's all very well to argue, but it is not expected that when a man with a broken leg calls in a doctor to save his life, that he is going to remain in his house, at his table, and in his bed, forever ; particularly when the leg is off, and the cripple on his one solid foot, and the bill paid ! Nor is it expected that when a policeman is called to arrest a thief, or even an assassin, that he is to remain for good! This argument grows stronger when the injured man is pretty well con- vinced that not only his life, but his leg as well, might have been saved with a less painful surgical operation, and with a less expensive and more delicate doctor; or the thief arrested by the men of the family had they had courage enough. When, in 1856, the kingdom of Oudh was annexed to England by the East India Company, Sir Henry Laurence THE ENGLISH IN EGYPT. 2Qlprr|Q is not exclusion. Pere Hyacinthe explained that we had come to learn as much as possible, not only for our own satisfaction, but also for the purpose of rectifying many errors in Europe concerning Islam ;. whereupon the Sheik-ul-Islam replied that he "would be most happy to give all infor- mation in his power, for this was charity and justice." The conversation turned at once upon theological tenets, religious customs, and historical facts; and during the hour we spent in his company, we received much valuable information from this foremost religious teacher in Islam. Upon our departure we were again assured of warm wel- come whenever we chose to visit him. The next day a lead- ing Sheik, who is a distinguished professor of theology, accompanied us to the great Mosque. What a spectacle! a field of white turbans! over one thousand students all sitting in groups on the floor around the Imans or Sheiks, their, teachers and professors, who, for the most part, are in the same humble attitude, though sometimes they GRAND MOSQUE OF EL-AHZAR, CAIRO. FIVE MINARETS AND DOME. UNIVERSITY OF L\F( CAIRO. CONCERNING ISLAM. CONFERENCE. 215 stand against a column but rarely sit in a chair. And what attention ! each with his inkhorn at his belt, and reed pen, writing on the open palm of his left hand, which is the custom with all who write Arabic. No tables or desks are needed. In learning, as in all vocations, life is main- tained at its simplest expression. Even in Paris our learned Oriental friends disdain our desks when writing Arabic; and certainly the Arabesque characters are the most beautiful of all written languages. The Sheiks, Imans, and professors vied with each other in explaining to us everything of interest in this vast institution. The fine library is under the special care of the Khedive and is principally in Arabic literature which once took the lead of all other nations, and contains wealth of rare manuscripts and books of great price. The teaching, how- ever, is mostly oral. The memory of Moslems is prodi- gious. We frequently met those who could repeat the Koran from the beginning to the end. This multitude of earnest young students comes from all parts of the world, and is of every color known among men, from the fairest blue-eyed faces of the Caucasian race to the blackest ebony of the African tribes, and from this great school of Moslem faith go forth missionaries for the conversion of the pagan world. The conversion of Christians, or any who believe in the One True God is never undertaken, save by rare fanatics, and it is forbidden by the Koran. They contend that all who believe in the same and only God are necessarily Mussulmans : that God being One and Omnipotent there can be but one true Religion, and therefore all who believe in Him as such, are of the same household of faith. And no Christian can gainsay this doctrine. The conversions to Islamism among the pagan world are enormous. A Christian and veteran traveler in Africa, Monsieur de Behagle,* gives * Recently killed by hostile savages in Central Africa. 2l6 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. us an estimate from personal observation : for the last fif- teen years the annual average of African converts to Islam is sixty a day. These students of El-Ahzar, when they have taken their degree of Imam (teacher), start out in pairs or singly, but sometimes in groups, to separate in the interior of Africa, without money or luggage -only their prayer carpet folded over their shoulder, to serve as tent, bed, and mosque, and some without even this luxury, using their mantle instead. They are well versed in Arabic and also in different African dialects, and go into the desert, or into the mountains ; the tropics or the regions of snow, helping, teaching, and converting savages to the knowl- edge of God. They live as brethren with the most hostile tribes, partaking with gratitude of the simplest fare, teach- ing humility, resignation, and charity by their own lives. There is no controversy nothing but the teaching of two fundamental doctrines : God and the Judgment. And this doctrine is so simple and so true, withal, so remarkable and beneficent, that it only needs to be proclaimed to be accepted at once. The lowest fetish-mongers and idolaters soon begin to feel their dignity and then their relation to God; and gradually stand forth a higher creation a new man. Limitation of wives is imposed upon all converts or believers, and from promiscuity to four wives is the be- ginning of the constitution of the family. They need but little catechism and no churches nor altars nor robes nor mitres nor lavender gloves, nor creeds save this: "God is the only God and Mohammed is His Prophet" and one repetition is enough to engrave it on their memories for- ever. There are no back-sliders or unbelievers among them. All they need is the earth on which they prostrate themselves in adoration, and the sky through which they see paradise. But it is very possible, very probable indeed, that these teachers warn these simple tribes against what CAIRO. CONCERNING ISLAM. CONFERENCE. 217 they have, perhaps, already learned to beware of : the pale- faced men who come among them with one book and many bottles. That One Book great and blessed remains un- opened to their untaught minds, while the bottles are opened all too quickly! They have, however, no need to be warned against the ever-feared white man who skulks in the jungle, stealing men and women to make them slaves. A humble-minded domestic from Ethiopia said to me one day after some pains on my part to make him be- lieve that Christians were not as bad as he thought: "Ah Madame, you see, we, down dar in dem hot climates don't b'live much in dem white peoples who bring dair great God shut up in a little book, and dair big debil shut up in a little bottle, an de trouble is dis : le little book is shut up so tight all mixed up wid black spots and scratches on white paper he's no good a pussen; but de big debil in de little bottle, he make a great noise, an goes pop ! an he jumps right out into evrybody! an den evrybody is debil!" The simple and unflinching faith of Mussulmans is their only strength and sure fortress in temporal, spiritual, and eternal things. Nor is it surprising from what they see in the outer world that they look with suspicion upon all outside influences and refuse absolutely any foreign interference. The English here in Egypt, and foreign occupants in any land of Islam have no jurisdiction or prestige in the religious realm. This tenacity naturally leads to exclusiveness and to delay in accepting modern ideas and methods. And the principal reason is fear of our irreligion and vices. During our sojourn in Cairo, we often went to the great Mosque of El-Ahzar, feeling "at home" as we do in all temples built for the worship of God. Thus it was by His infinite love that not only were the doors of this great central temple of worship and greatest school of 2l8 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Moslem law opened to us, but also the hearts of many of its learned Sheiks and Professors foremost of all the great and venerable Sheik-ul-Islam ! So well acquainted did we become, and so easy was the ingress to his presence made for us, that I, woman as I am, could go alone, "comme un enfant de la niaison," as he said in Arabic, (like a child of the house), whenever I liked, accompanied only by my dragoman who remained outside the door. And when I entered that fine large study, the venerable Sheik, suspending his grave studies with the Imams, sages, and scribes who surrounded him, would offer me a seat on the high white divan beside him, call for refresh- ments and reply to my enquiries with greatest attention and fatherly kindness. There was always some one among the learned Sheiks who could act as interpreter. The questionings were mostly mine, for I had certainly wished much more to learn of him than he of me. The subjects of our travels, and impressions of our two patries, always led the way to the inevitable theme of religion ; its rami- fications in history and in the human heart; but above all in its logical sequence the One and Only God. On this broad and high platform we were in perfect .accord and fraternal harmony. ^And what infinite satisfaction to be at one in essentials with those with whom, in non-essentials we are so far apart! It only required the little grain of mustard-seed with moderate intelligence, good will, and charity, to overthrow the mountains which had ever threat- ened to crush us, and to fill up the separating abyss which had always yawned at our feet.] The Oriental Arab theo- logian is not a polemist in our sense of argumentation, and avoids vain philosophies and metaphysics. Of all others he is the purest type of the Old Testament pro- phetic nature: strong in faith; broad and simple in doc- trine; and, therefore, comprehensive and conclusive. I have met only one fanatic Moslem, (not in Egypt) and he CAIRO. CONCERNING ISLAM. CONFERENCE. 219 was not altogether of a sound mind. Charity is a real and all-prevailing virtue with the followers of the Prophet. Query: Is it not possible for us, worn-out believers, to accept something practical in primary principles from these our more modern brethren, if we still refuse to follow Christ? Pere Hyacinthe was invited to speak to the people of Cairo, and under the auspices of the Khedive, with the cooperation of a joint committee of Christians and Mos- lems, he gave a conference at the Grand Opera House upon the Reconciliation of Religions. A learned Sheik, accompanied by two others, were sent to me in my box "to convey" as they said, "to the great Christian Preacher and Reformer, the felicitations of the Sheik-ul-Islam." And I never felt prouder of my environ- ment than with these distinguished and most imposing Arabs, draped in white and clothed in manly dignity; and who, notwithstanding their grave deportment, joined heartily in the enthusiastic applause of the immense audi- ence. I am permitted to say that the quick signal for the loudest and most prolonged applause was given by a pair of small, fair hands up in the trellised box of the Court Ladies; and it was given when the speaker said, after enumerating the great qualities of the Religion of Moham- med, "but there is a great black spot across the brow of Islam : Polygamy." CHAPTER XXV. TURNING DERVISHES. WE went to "old Cairo'' to see the Turning Der- vishes who are certainly one of the most curious of the numerous religious orders of Islam. Within a gar- den there were about forty men and boys standing around the edge of a raised platform adjoining a religious house. They were of all ages, from youths of twelve to old men of eighty, and of all classes and callings, all clad in divers garbs and scrupulously clean. They are ascetics and may be called monks in their way, yet they are all married men ; for, as the family is the basis of all society in Islam, an un- married man or woman is an anomaly almost unknown. Neither position nor poverty, color nor condition, prevents marriage; but illness alone. In spite of prima facie evidence that mystery envelops the sublimest truths, we are prone to distrust what we do not understand ; therefore^ that this strange religious exer- cise to which these Dervishes give themselves may be some- what comprehensible, I will explain its mystic origin as given to me by Prince Malcom-Khan,* that distinguished Persian diplomat and scholar, who, though an Armenian Christian, is perhaps the most competent, and certainly the most sympathetic interpreter of Islam in the Occident. The founder of the Order of Turning Dervishes is * Persian Ambassador to England, France, Italy, and most of the other European nations. TURNING DERVISHES. 221 Djelal-el-Dine Roumi, the most celebrated mystic poet of Persia and Asia, who lived in the thirteenth century, and is held in great veneration by the Turks, being considered a prophet by all the philosophical schools of the Orient. One day, or rather one night, Djelal-el-Dine Roumi was wandering in the suburbs of the city and musing on the wonders of the created worlds revolving about himln'the firmament, when his ear caught the rhythmic and melo- dious sounds of a hammer beating upon an anvil. He in- voluntarily followed the sound, and soon found himself within the dark enclosure of a blacksmith's shop where a stalwart smith was beating red-hot iron that sent off bright scintillations into the darkness, which, as he turned and re-turned his iron, produced a radiating, gyratory movement of such exquisite beauty that the poet became fascinated, and soon so spell-bound that, under the mys- terious attraction there occurred a psychical phenomenon, which remains inexplicable. The religious mystic was un- consciously drawn within the orbit of these revolving scintillations and, borrowing the momentum, began to move with them, keeping the rhythmic measure with the musical beating of the hammer upon the anvil. Round and round he moved in deepening ecstacy until he seemed to be uplifted and swung among the revolving spheres, ob- livious of self and earth. Others, too, simple folk, looking in, caught the weird measure, and following the example of their beloved and venerated poet, went moving round with him under the fascinating influence until the spell was broken by the stopping of the hammer and the ending of the luminous spectacle. This was the origin of the Turning Dervishes, and is obviously of a hypnotic spirit- ual nature. Christianity has produced many analogous moods of worship; the Shaking Quakers in central New York, the Oscillating and Shouting Negroes of the South- ern States, the Tremblers in France, the Dance of the 222 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Great Spirit of the American Indians, the religious dances in the churches in Abyssinia, and also in Spain, which are practised there even to this day; dating undoubtedly from David, the sweet singer and poet-king of Israel, who danced before the Lord to his own enrapturing music. Poetic and mystic natures are instinctively affected by rhythm or measure in musical movement, hence the be- witching, and often irresistible charm of the dance; and there may be a deeper analogy than people think between the whirling waltzers and the Turning Dervishes; and more than one dancing fanatic of the gay and giddy world has avowed a worshipful sentiment; one young lady as- suring me that she prayed in waltzing. The baton in the hand of the chef d'orchestre produces, not only upon the waiting musicians, symptoms of harmonious contagion, but is often communicated to the audience before a note is sounded upon the instruments. A sympathetic note of a violin, or a street-organ will sometimes set people dan- cing in spite of themselves. I know a Christian lady, though opposed to dancing generally, frequently engages an organ-grinder for an hour beneath her window, then locks herself up alone and, as she says, "dances it out and feels better for a week after !" Now we turn back to the Dervishes. They formed a hollow square in which a few musicians were seated, keep- ing low and melancholy measure on a tambourine, a stringed instrument, and a flute. In their midst stood a leader who, at a signal began slowly moving his head backwards and forwards, faster and faster, all the others imitating him ; then the whole body began to move, bend- ing backwards and forwards, lower and lower, until the long hair of the most venerable swept the ground. Through it all there- was a low guttural sound of heavy cadenced breathing, the rapidity of the movement ever increasing ; then a sudden stop in the music and an instantaneous TURNING DERVISHES. 223 halt with the Dervishes, then a swaying movement from side to side and lastly the turning movement began. Round and round, faster and faster they moved, deeper and deeper the breathing, which at length, with the increasing velocity becomes to a looker-on, sometimes painfully con- tagious. Even little children who could scarcely walk, pressed forward to be taken up in the arms of some turner to join in the rite and be whirled within the mystic circle. Thus they are taught, without words or precept, this strange mode of prayer and worship. An unquestionable and profound religious atmosphere pervades this extraordinary rite, which is necessarily in- comprehensible to those who feel no religious sympathy with what is odd or eccentric; and to a common sightseer it seems ridiculous. But when we remember that this is the only mode of expression given to this humble and ig- norant people who are profoundly religious, with very sen- sitive nervous organism, without resource, knowledge, or experience; and that this is their weekly prayer meet- ing, and all who join in this ceremony give evidence thereby of their need of divine help, and the seeking of perfec- tion through the grace of God; the rite, though exagger- ated to us, becomes respectable and even imposing. We were very much ashamed of most of the traveling Chris- tians present; but felt grateful for the tears of one old sympathetic Russian lady, and to a distinguished looking Jew who joined in the chant. The ceremony lasted about an hour. On the part of the Dervishes, all was orderly, decent and respectful. Not so with many of the 200 cu- rious lookers-on, some of whom were surprised that there was no entrance-fee nor collection taken up; especially as comfortable seats were offered them by the polite Moslems in attendance. But money under no circumstances enters into the cult of Mussulmans. (An excellent object-lesson for us.) 224 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. But how these Dervishes could go through this reli- gious ceremony, surrounded as they were by this crowd of unbelieving, deriding, and sneering Christians, was the most astounding instance of the virtue of forbearance and tolerance, that could be given to the world ! When the ceremony was ended, we sent into the house to ask the Sheik if he would receive us. We were at once ushered into a large room, very simple and very clean, where we were welcomed by the presiding Sheik who gave- us most interesting information concerning the order. With Mus- sulmans, there is a total absence of all cant or superfluous expressions of piety. Hospitality, even among these poor people, is an incumbent and practised virtue. Delicious coffee was offered us at once by the Dervishes who had just participated in the turning service, and all were glad to have us among them and we were happy to be there. Ah ! how religion, even in its most unlike expressions, unites and warms hearts as nothing else can do! A few days later we received the visit of the Sheik Superior of the Dervishes in Egypt, who resides in Cairo: Mohammed Tewfik-el-Bakr, descendant of Abou Bakr, the successor of the Prophet, and of Fatima, his daughter. This office and title are hereditary. When our host, Ahmed Chefik Bey, announced this distinguished visitor, it needed no stretch of imagination to see the weird, long- bearded old Arab Sheik with haggard visage, clothed in sackcloth, and perhaps turning, turning all the time; but lo ! there appeared a fair gentleman of courtly appearance and richly dressed an accomplished man of the world, about thirty years old, but looked younger. He was a learned man and had traveled a great deal. He had, I fear, read overmuch, for he knew as much of the school of German Infidel writers as he did of ancient and modern history and the classics, and these he knew well. He spoke the principal European tongues and divers Oriental TURNING DERVISHES. 225 ones. With our host, we accepted the invitation to dine with him with great pleasure. His residence is one of the finest palaces in Cairo, and furnished a la franc, ais. He must be very rich, as his position entails great expense. Tall, well-trained native domestics served an excellent dinner which was a happy combination of French, Arabic, and Turkish cuisines. Delicate in health, he is still -un- married, and lives with his mother who sent me word by her son that she would be happy if I would call upon her, which I did a few days later. Her harem is in a separate part of the palace, in vast and magnificent apartments, with many immense mirrors, a rare thing in Moslem houses. I found a fair, richly dressed lady, but with simple elegance and perfect taste, which, with her refined manners, be- trayed the high-born lady of Constantinople, most probably of Circassian extraction. She was a widow and devoted to her son and her religion. No Christian lady could ex- press higher moral sentiments and more ardent desire for the proper education of youth, and the maintenance of charitable relations among all believers, and for universal peace. During the great fast of the Ramadan, when vigil is kept late into the night, this Chief of the Dervishes has an immense, warmly quilted and embroidered tent put up in his vast garden, where hundreds of devout men meet for religious exercise: singing, praying, and speaking. The Sheik invited us to attend one of these meetings near midnight, and we were greatly edified. What impresses us most deeply among all Moslems is their absolute equal- ity and simple fraternity united with perfect decorum and respect. CHAPTER XXVI. THE COPTIC CHURCH. ^HAT the God Unique was vaguely revealed to the -I ancient Egyptians long before He was worshiped by Israel, as the Divine, Personal Father, we have ample proof in archaic stone and script. It is, therefore, very possible that, by spiritual atavism, psychological evolution, or Divine direction, as one may choose to call it, a latent auxiliary to monotheistic faith was found by the' Hebrews, in the ancient mythology of Egypt, during their long sojourn there, where, as in India, and the great Druidic forests of Gaul, and those of the American Indians, as well as in Athens, later on, there existed the inherent and inevitable seeking of the human soul for "The Un- known God." The Coptic Church which numbers 700,000 souls to- day is one of the oldest of the Apostolic foundations. His Holiness, Abba Ciryle V, the present Patriarch, is the un- interrupted and undisputed successor of St. Mark. This Church is, therefore, the primitive Church of Egypt, as its name implies: Copt meaning Egyptian. It certainly is the oldest Church in the world older than the Apostles, as it was founded by Mary, the Virgin mother, who carried the whole Church in her arms when she fled into Egypt.* During the great Moslem crusade, and since, large num- bers of Copts became Mussulmans. * The wonderful prophecy in chapter xix of Isaiah should be consulted. THE COPTIC CHURCH. 227 One of our first visits in Cairo was, very naturally, to its oldest Christian edifice. It was, therefore, with pro- found religious interest that we drove out of the whirling, noisy capital, through the scoria of an ancient world, into the solemn and sordid, dilapidated "Old Cairo." A great modern building from five hundred to a thou- sand years old stands amid ruins and rubbish over the spot where tradition places the resting-place of the Holy Family. With eyes open and reason on the alert, we are not slow to detect fraud and error; but we do not belong to the category of captious sceptics who encumber the way of all serious travelers, as well as reason and history, with doubt and pretentious criticism. Concerning this case of Tra- ditional History, it must be admitted that anything which breaks into the common order or circumstance of life such as, for instance, the arrival, in any neighborhood of any country, of a family a husband, wife, and child- fleeing persecution and death would be an event not likely to be hidden or soon forgotten. The fact of their being strangers from a far country would add to the importance ; and when the persecutor was a great king like Herod, the fact would become history. So we went down into the sub-crypt of three superposed churches quite willing to believe that it was here the Holy Family came and dwelt ; in this rock-roofed dwelling in the sands of the desert beside the Nile : Mary the Virgin, Joseph her spouse, and the Infant Jesus. Most interesting is this sand-buried church ; and, con- sidering its antiquity, well preserved ; but it was not here they dwelt, we must go deeper into the past, and deeper into the earth down a steep stone-stair, until we are pre- vented by water from going further. The ebb of the an- nual inundation of the Nile had not yet receded to its bed, and the floor of this church was at least a foot under the 228 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. clear sparkling water, so that we could venture only part way down the steps ; but the acolyte who accom- panied us held aloft a torch, and we could discern its pro- portions and main detail. His explanation was very touch- ing, even if it was not all verified by history; as, for ex- ample, when he said: "The altar yonder is where the Mother and Child slept." I hope the serious reader will forgive me for passing abruptly, at this point, from a grave to an amusing inci- dent, which, however, has its lesson. The acolyte, being barefooted as is the custom on entering holy places, pre- ceded us with the torch and stepped down into the water, while we remained standing on the last dry steps. When we expressed our regret that we could not approach the altar nearer, the young man held up a pair of sandals which he carried in his left hand, and innocently remarked : "Oh, you may come with me if you like, and examine all ; you have only to put on these sandals."- -To hide our smiles and safeguard decorum, I fear we ascended the steps rather precipitously. It was an amusing object-lesson in a holy place. The letter of the law remains harmless and sometimes even ridiculous, and may become so habitual and indelible that even the inundations of the Nile cannot obliterate it. The water mattered little to this devout Christian, if only our shodden feet did not desecrate the floor of the holy place ! Well, well, we must not "kill" with our "spirit" mak- ing it harder than the "letter"; so we will excuse the young zealot, and respect and love the old Coptic church which has so steadfastly kept the faith which Mary and Joseph brought here into this land of the Unknown Past. As we came away w r e were sorry to see, a little hand, on which the Coptic cross was tattooed, stretched out ask- ing for backsheesh. The reflections as we drove away from the ancient THE COPTIC CHURCH. 229 Coptic church, amid the ruins of Cairo, and through the heavy sand, were in this wise: There is an infiltration of Living Water in the old Churches, borne in silently by the swelling tide of the Great River of Divine Progress from the Upper Country, from that undiscovered region of Infinite Purpose and their altars are in danger, and worshipers can scarcely venture in ; unless they have the courage to go in boldly and barefooted as did the Coptic acolyte ; for if you venture in, shod in your modern shoes, you do it at your risk; and when the churches are inun- dated, traditional sandals are a subterfuge! But be not misled by wiseacre acolytes, or ignorant guides, who say: "Oh, it is only a periodical overflow, it will soon pass away and we shall still maintain our ancient base-line." These acolytes, and would-be prophets, are mistaken, they are ignorant of the great onward march in all God's uni- verse and reason thus: "When Mary and Joseph came to Egypt with The Little Child, there was no danger of the rising tide: their dwelling when built, was safe and solid, and we will never abandon it!" But with the im- mutable march of time the bed itself of the great river has risen! If God has changed the base of natural phe- nomena, how much more certainly has he changed the base of human institutions ! Still men and Christians go on superposing their dwellings and churches, (while there is so much building-room on the earth!) consenting most reluctantly to abandon their substructures, determined to keep to old customs, old habits, and old errors, with the justly venerated old rites and ceremonies, while God's great river of science is steadily raising its bed; thus caus- ing peril and disaster, if not for us, certainly for our children, or our children's children. Nature, science, and religion form the tripod on which rests the universe; and if one of the feet is broken, or of unequal length, the unity 230 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. of resistance, cohesion, and capacity is lost; disaster is inevitable. It requires no study of philosophers' books, but only our own personal observation, to understand that though we may subjugate sand and fire, we are helpless and power- less in the midst of inundation; for water must seek its level: Nor does it require great acumen to understand that beneath that ungovernable force lies a hidden and stronger power which raises, not only the beds of rivers, but the floor of the oceans; and, that finally our modern Churches, like those old primitive ones, will be driven to build on higher ground if they may hope to maintain a solid basis and offer standing-place and kneeling-room for worshipers! Like the Nile, which, though separated by the Delta for a time, flows together again; so science and religion must eventually unite their forces, at the confluence of Divine events and human transformations, and flow deep and strong together, out into the unfathomable sea of Hu- manity bearing new men in new ships to new cities filled with new life! And in their midst will be Jerusalem new and clean and holy ! [Be still! O heart! lest you break by the tension of waiting!] CHAPTER XXVII. COMMUNION IN THE COPTIC CATHEDRAL. THE TEWFIK SOCIETY. COPTIC WOMEN. IF our Star-day in Egypt was with the Pharaohs at Thebes, our Sun-day of religious experience was here in Cairo; and it will remain upon record, not only in our hearts, but in the greater book of Eternity. As it is our wont in the following of Christ, wherever we go we keep the Holy Feast in His precious remem- brance; and being of His Church the One, True, Holy, and Catholic we are perfectly at home wherever He dwells. Our first visit in Cairo was to the rector of the Ang- lican Church whose Bishops, English and American, had been our Fathers and Visiting Bishops of the Gallican Church, in Paris, for many years. We, however, failed to find him and had not the pleasure of making his ac- quaintance. But, though strangers in a strange land, we found the "brethren"; and, as we had always held the ancient faith of Egypt in great veneration, we decided to go to the Holy Communion, if it were possible, in the Church of the country. We knew very well, however, that intercommunion with the Coptic and Western Chris- tians was not admitted. Following the command of our Master, we carry our prayer to God rather than to the Saints; and likewise in the Church we go to the head Minister rather than to the minor clergy, however venerable they may be; so 232 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. we went to His Holiness the Coptic Patriarch of Alexan- dria, who usually resides in Cairo, the capital of the coun- try and largely composed of Copts. We carried a letter from Nubar Pasha, and were accompanied by Labib Ef- fendi, Professor of Hieroglyphs and the Coptic language, who, knowing French well, acted as interpreter. The venerable Patriarch received us as became a Father in the Faith with most kindly expressions of Christian wel- come ; but when our desire for communion in his Church was conveyed to him, he was surprised and hesitated, then called in his chief theologian, the Rev. Father Philo- theos, the Ecclesiastical Director of the Coptic College with whom we spoke in Italian. After a conference be- tween them, we were asked if we wished to become mem- bers of the Coptic Church ; to which we replied that though we held his ancient Church in high esteem, we had no such intention. We were then asked why we wished to receive the Holy Communion at their hands. Then Pere Hyacinthe explained that we were citizens of France, Latin Christians of the ancient Church of Gaul believing in One Only Church, and, though travelers in a strange and distant land, we felt it a privilege and duty to show our belief in this unity by partaking of the Holy Communion.. We came therefore instinctively with love and confidence to the Church of the country and to its Chief Pastor asking this privilege. Thereupon the ven- erable Patriarch gave us welcome in the name of Him whose followers we all are. As the day of our departure was near, we could not remain for the Sunday services, so we were invited to come on a weekday morning for an early celebration. At 8 o'clock on the morning fixed upon, Labib EfTendi called and drove us to the Cathedral. In answer to our expressed regret at not being able, as we much preferred, to join in the greater Communion on the Lord's day, thus COMMUNION IN THE COPTIC CATHEDRAL. 233 fully keeping the Sacred Feast whose name implies the presence of the brethren he told us that he and several of the clergy would partake with us. We were gratified at this, remembering that though we be but two or three together in His Name His Holy Presence is guaranteed. In passing through the arched entrance which shuts out the city, and into the large enclosure which surrounds the Cathedral, the College, and the Patriarchal palace, we heard the sound of a great choir and saw clouds of in- cense floating out through the windows in the sweet morn- ing air ; and were much surprised when we were met by a group of clergy, laymen, and students, all of whom sa- luted us with a warm Christian welcome and escorted us to the great Cathedral which was filled to its utmost with many hundreds of expectant people! So great was our astonishment that we asked if it were a fete-day in the Coptic calendar. The reply was, "No, but it is a great festival in the annals of Christianity when, for the first time, Oriental and Occidental Christians come together at the Sacred Feast of our Beloved Lord." Among the assembly were Greeks, Syrians, Maronites, Romans, Protestants, Moslems, and Jews ; all being drawn together by Christian sympathy. I write what I mean: for the religious sentiment of the Jews as well as of the Moslems is the Christ-sentiment of Brotherhood. The emotion which seized us as we crossed the thresh- old of this ancient Cathedral was very profound. We were escorted by the clergy up through the passage, kept open by the pressing throng, that led us to that "Altar to the Living God," which should remain in Egypt and of which the prophet had written 4000 years before, "... .There shall be an Altar to the Lord in the midst of the Land of Egypt and a pillar at the border thereof. . . ."* * Pompey's Pillar stands on its borderland at Alexandria. (See Isaiah, XIX, 19'.) 234 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. The great edifice was filled with melody of plaintive Oriental music, and the air with incense; and as my eyes followed the cloud upward, I saw the high latticed gallery for women filled; and bethinking myself that I, too, was of their number, noticed for the first time that I was the only woman in the body of the church; and wondered where my place should be. (Here, not in revolt against this Jewish custom still preserved in Christian churches, but with ineffable satis- faction, I dare say, with something of inspiration, my mind went back to Her who came to this friendly land nearly twenty hundred years ago, fleeing an enemy greater than prejudice and error : death for Her Precious Babe to Her the young, loving Virgin Mother, carrying in Her protecting arms the whole Eternal Church ! and I asked within myself: Why should her sisters be thus set apart and hidden in the worship of Her Son? And my reason, and my faith, and my heart said: This should not be!) I was willing, however, in this grand moment, if not as a woman, at least as a Christian, to take the humblest seat and the least visible place. I said to a deacon beside me: "Pray do not let me embarrass you in any way but put me where you like I am only too happy to be present anywhere." To this he replied with emphasis : "You and your husband are one and what God has joined together, let no man put asunder and certainly not in His Divine Presence." The Coptic Altar, as in all the Oriental churches, stands in the sanctuary behind the Holy Screen to which broad steps lead up. And now we approached a large carpet before the Holy of Holies, upon which no dust of shodden feet may fall. An attendant, stooping, put on over my shoes a pair of sandals, and would have done so for my husband, but the latter insisted upon removing his shoes as did all others present near the Altar. In the middle of COMMUNION IN THE COPTIC CATHEDRAL. 235 this carpet were placed two great arm-chairs which we were invited to occupy. As seats are seldom used in Oriental churches, where worshipers stand or kneel, we sat but little, save during- the sermon and only when a priest begged us so to do. It seems almost a sacrilege to even attempt to give a description of what was so indescribably sacred. It is very certain I should utterly fail in conveying any concep- tion of our emotion. Compared to this, the outward detail though so grand and impressive, is naught! The high arched Cathedral, the massive stone pillars, the great windows, and the pressing mass of worshipful people, are all vague memories. But I can never cease to see vividly that choir of blind students who stood on either side upon the broad steps of the Altar, like the Holy Choir upon the steps of the Heavenly Throne, their sightless eyes turned upward to that great Light which illumines every soul that chants the Glory of Jehovah ! The venerable Patriarch was on his throne at the right of the Sanctuary, and in the middle was the High Priest officiating. The service in the Coptic tongue, is chanted and sung, not only by the choir, but by the whole congre- gation, who use no books, as all the Liturgy is known by heart from childhood. Some parts of the Gospel and the Creed were first repeated in Coptic, then in Arabic, that all might understand. The service was long I washed it had been longer and certainly the most beautiful I ever witnessed! All was full and complete, in perfect order and harmony, yet without the least suggestion of studied ceremony. Everything was natural, spontaneous, and im- pressive. There was no superfluous going and coming, nor excessive genuflexions and crossing; all was simple, sober, and sacred. The vestments were very elaborate, Oriental, most beautiful, and becoming with a suggestion of the Synagogue in its ancient grandeur. They were 236 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. worn with that grace and dignity which characterize natu- ral simplicity and true worship. A sermon was preached in Arabic, in the middle of which, and to our surprise but not in the least to our discomfiture the preacher looked straight at my husband and asked in Italian, with a clear voice, amidst a most solemn silence : "Padre Giacinto, Crede Lei in Nostro Sig- nore Gcsu Crist o?" (Father Hyacinthe, do you believe in the Lord Jesus Christ?) To which the Pere replied, in a strong full voice "Si, lo credo" (Yes, I believe). Then turning to me, he repeated the same question in the same tongue: "Madame Hyacinthe Loyson, do you believe in our Lord Jesus Christ?" to which I replied in Italian, "Yes, I believe." Our hearts were filled with a great unexpected joy to thus make public confession, and amid divers believers of different lands, of our faith in Christ and our love for the ancient Church of Egypt ! All was so natural and in such perfect harmony with the 'sublime occasion and the majestic ceremony that it seemed, not only a renewal of our primi- tive Christian faith, but a broader, higher entrance into the great family of the faithful than we had ever experi- enced before. How sublime this All-Sufficient Confession of Faith: ONE GOD ONE SAVIOUR ONE CHURCH. . . . Then the High Priest withdrew within the Sanctuary and we knew the consecration was beginning, according to the most ancient rite. The congregation were standing in silent prayer when the veil was drawn, and he came forth and beckoned to my husband to enter within the Sacred Precinct for the Communion. Knowing that no woman enters there, I was filled with astonishment when, the next moment, the High Priest returned and beckoned me to enter also! Fearing 1 might be mistaken for I now doubted my senses I hesitated, when two deacons ad- vanced and bade me enter. COMMUNION IN THE COPTIC CATHEDRAL. 237 It seemed to me that my feet had lost their volition, and that I was borne within the Holy of Holies by an Angelic Host as the choir chanted a Halleluiah! My husband was already robed in a priest's long white Sur- plice, and two deacons placed on my shoulders a long white mantle, and on my head a white veil. Gold em- broidered napkins were placed in each our hands for tak- ing the Chalice; then kneeling beside my husband at the High Altar, the High Priest gave to Pere Hyacinthe and then to me, the Most Holy Communion of our Lord: the consecrated bread and wine, repeating the Biblical formula in Italian: "This is the Body and Blood of our Saviour Jesus Christ take ye eat and drink of it." Then there came within the Sanctuary many priests and laymen and joined in the Holy Feast. More than this may not be written on paper, with pen and ink; the emotions of the soul, the ineffable peace, the celestial joy of this most Holy Communion with Christ and his followers this strange people in this distant land. . . .words are weak and almost sacrilege. When all was finished we returned into the nave of the cathedral, exchanging warm congratulations with many friends and brethren gathered to meet us, and then we were conducted to the Patriarchal palace hard by, where the Venerable Patriarch awaited us in his private parlor for his final benediction, which was given we kneeling, and he placing his hands at the same time on both our heads. It was with full hearts that we reiterated our expres- sions of consolation and gratitude; and as we bade him our final farewell he presented me, first with a beautiful Coptic cross of golden filigree (which they told me had been sent him by Menelik, the Coptic Emperor of Abys- sinia) then with three small loaves of Blest Bread which had lain upon the altar, and from which had been taken that for Consecration. This bread is unleaven, of the form 238 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. a little loaf everywhere used in the Orient, and most probably the same that Jesus used. Upon it in moulded Coptic characters, are the consecrating words of the Sa- viour. These the beloved Patriarch carefully enveloped in a white silken napkin, and gave me to carry home. Two of the loaves have been broken and given, as sweet souve- nirs of intercommunion, to many friends of diverse lands and different churches, and some have been laid upon altars in the West. One loaf remains on our Home Altar a precious relic of that bright, that glorious Sun-Day of our voyage in the Orient, and of its Immortal Circum- stance ! And if it be such joy to two travelers in these times of separation, to commune thus with a long-separated Mother Church, what will it be when all are drawn together by the Holy Spirit? Let us not then be weary in working, hopeless in wait- ing, nor languid in praying for this end! for that great Jubilee-Day must come ! When ? depends upon how sin- cerely we pray how confidently we hope, and how faith- fully we work! I have welded that golden Coptic cross to an ancient silver Latin one, which I have worn almost all my life; for there is but one Cross. In closing this poor recital of a grand chapter in our lives, I am not afraid to prophesy that in the future re- construction of the Church of Christ throughout the world, this great Coptic Emperor of Abyssinia who has the just and Scriptural title King of Kings or his successors, who are the successors of Solomon, will bring cyclopean blocks of black well-polished granite, from the interior of Africa, for the building of the solid basis of Divine Unity among Christians! COMMUNION IN THE COPTIC CATHEDRAL. 239 Our communion in the Coptic Cathedral at Cairo is an earnest of that glorious day ! The day of our Communion in the Egyptian church the telegraph carried the news all over the world that u Pere Hyacinthe had become a Copt!" Two days after he published a letter in the Egyptian newspapers which put the matter right ; but there are persons to this- day who still maintain that we are ipso facto Copts ; others that we are Armenian, or Greek, or Maronite, or Protestant, Anglican, or Papist, for the simple and very good reason that we love them all and frequent their churches when oc- casion offers, being therefore Catholic, Protestant, and Evangelical. But we are so accustomed to misrepresenta- tion that if every one told the truth about us we would scarcely recognize our own identity, were it not for the central consciousness and the immutable principle of faith which we carry in our hearts. Before we left Cairo, a reception was given us by the "Coptic Tewfik Society," composed of leading ecclesi- astics and laymen, men of science, letters, government offices, finance, etc. Tewfik signifies Progress and the members of this society do it honor. Some of its members have received medals of literary merit from the first institutes of Europe ; one has just received the medaillc d'or (golden medal) from that of France. Their Hall of reunion, which holds one hundred comfortably, was crowded with about three hundred! Happily an admirably contrived punka sus- pended from the ceiling kept the air in motion and made existence possible. Pere Hyacinthe delivered an address, after which he was elected Honorary Member of the Tewfik Society of Cairo, and duly presented with a printed parchment. I was the only lady present, and occupied a seat on the platform beside the Rev. Pere Philotheos, at the right of 240 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. the President, who informed me in a nice little speech, that though the Coptic ladies never attended public meet- ings they had made a departure from their exclusive rule, and a company of their wives, mothers, and daughters were waiting to receive me in an adjoining room; to which, with the utmost difficulty, I effected an entrance, so packed were the hall and stairs, hundreds of people crowding the streets outside. The reception by the Coptic ladies was simple and genuine, and we were friends at once. Some there were who spoke French and we got on very well. It is quite evident that among the Coptic women there is an impulse for learning and, unlike the Moslems, a de- cided disposition on the part of the younger women to discard the veil; for it must ever be borne in mind that the veiling of women is not an exclusive Moslem custom, but Oriental and common to all save the Jews. Yet how paradoxical for in the Synagogue they still sit behind a veil apart from men. We visited the Coptic schools and colleges, and found them excellent, with competent teachers and professors, and many very intelligent pupils. My husband was asked to address the French class and I the English; and we were certainly surprised at the learning of these young- students. I made several visits to Coptic families and found in- telligent, devoted, Christian wives and mothers; and who were not in the least troubled with vain or worldly ambi- tions. While I make no criticism here on the seclusion of Moslem women, I venture to say that I believe this se- clusion of Coptic women is unreasonable and detrimental to the progress of this Christian people. CHAPTER XXVIII. SECOND VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS. LEAVING CAIRO. AT length the time was fixed for leaving Cairo; and we must visit the Pyramids for the last time. We started early to have the full long day, and with an indescribable elation of spirit, joined, in crossing the great bridge of the Nil-el-Nasr, in that heterogeneous, nondescript, sublime caravan of human and animal dis- proportions. Nothing like it in the wide, wide world! The most dignified of all were the camels; the most im- patient the tourists ; the most philosophical the donkeys. We drove in an open carriage with two fast-flying Egyptian bays, an Abyssinian coachman with teeth of ivory, and not one missing as his broad genial smile amply revealed. Indeed his smile was so remarkable and his whole attitude so exuberant with happiness, that I at length called to him : "Hassim what makes you so happy ?" Thereupon, he turned around, and for joy could scarcely sputter it out : "Oh ! I knows all 'bout it, an' I knows yous !" "About what?" we asked. "Oh the Patrack! (Patriarch) .You like Copt-- O good! ver' good! I Copt I like you, an' you like me O, ver' good!" He was evidently a Copt and knew of the ceremony in the Cathedral, and we learned that it was known by every one of that faith in Cairo before sunset of the day of its 242 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. occurrence and among whom there was general felici- tation. It was with an intense sentiment of Christian frater- nity that our Abyssinian brother urged on his little flying bays, and, quite unmindful of all propriety, often turned trying to give us some important information evidently forgotten by our somewhat nonplussed Maronite Chris- tian dragoman. He never succeeded, however, but he was just as happy, and we were happy also. We also had a footman: a Moslem boy in tatters, a regular "rag-tag and bob-tail" fellah, who, clinging to the springs behind the carriage, as is the mode in Cairo, his variegated petticoats catching the wind and expand- ing into a prodigious balloon, gave an altogether impo- sing appearance to our magnificent equipage, not to be ignored in the picturesque and classical landscape through which we sped. After having left the multi-colored and multifarious caravan we entered the broad quiet avenue of trees which shelter the highway from Cairo to the Pyr- amids, and began to breathe in the day. The sun was well above the horizon when we swept up to the foot of the great builded mountain, where we were welcomed by the refined young Sheik and the army of guides, cameleers, and donkey-boys who hold the fort. The welcome of some was, perhaps, too warm as the day boded hot. I was soon on the back of a tall camel and under full escort, winding through the deep sand down to the Sphinx, where we were photographed, a thing to be done con- science bound, as the operator assured us he had walked from Cairo to be there in time to take us and he did take us in a hurry, as you see, kind reader. My husband, in spite of splendid health and unusual strength, is given to imprudence, and to-day refused alike both camel and donkey, and even a guide, preferring the THE PYRAMIDS. LEAVING CAIRO. 243 long walk in the heavy sand alone a sublime spot and unique occasion for meditation. Yet nothing could deter the pertinacious group from acting as body-guard until our dragoman gave them to understand that he was a Christian Sheik and wanted to be alone to pray. He was left to solitude instantly. Browning's lines flashed through my mind: "He prayed and I was afraid." And, also, Pere Hyacinthe still maintains the monkish habit of often going bareheaded when walking in solitary places. (The Barefooted Carmelites his ancient Order not only go with bare feet, wearing low sandals, but with shaven and bare heads; and only in very inclement weather is the cowl raised over the head.) So, as soon as our photographs were taken and just as we descended into the Temple of the Sphinx, he began to suffer pre- monitory symptoms of sunstroke. But the cool shade of the huge stone walls in the underground edifice, with sev- eral hours of assiduous care and rest, quite restored him. The guardian of the Temple, and many other Moslems, were incessant in their attentions providing us with all the bottles of Nile water we could use, and even the little children desisted from asking for backsheesh and kept guard all day, lest we should be disturbed. They also- kept off the flies, which remain a plague in Egypt to this day. When we had eaten our lunch, and he had quietly entered upon his afternoon siesta, I could not resist the supplications to go up to the Pyramid with an escort of guides who remembered the exhortation I had given them during our previous visit, concerning wine, tobacco, back- sheesh, pertinacious importunity, etc., etc., and who had now been keeping watch, discreetly hidden among the granite blocks; but who showed their appreciation of my former effort by this clinching argument : "Now please do 244 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. come, dear mother, and preach to us again! this is your last chance as the father is asleep !" The great yellow camel knelt with something of com- placency in his demeanor I mounted and rode back to the Pyramid in the broiling heat, surrounded by an army of Arabs, all quiet and courteous. The sun was still high and cast but little shade on the north side of the great Pyramid, and owing to the excessive heat of the day, all travelers but myself had disappeared and I found myself quite alone with the delectable army of guides and cameleers. Bur- nouses were spread for me on the sand and on the huge stones which form the steps of this man-made mountain, where a high cool place was offered by a venerable sheik and also a score of ready hands to help me reach it. Then all those who spoke any other tongue than Arabic, offered me their services as interpreters. Most of them knew at least a few words of another language, and some knew French or English quite well, with a little German and Italian thrown in we managed to understand each other. Everything relating to the Pyramids was recited by the guides like a litany. When conversation fell into unusual channels, or into the grave one of religion, our dragoman put it all into sonorous Arabic. There were about a hun- dred men and boys, and I was struck by an unusual gravity on all their faces, and soon discovered that their interest in me was divided by a general discomf orture ; and in a border group, I noticed a violent ringleader of an ill-con- cealed dissension. I asked the cause of the dispute and was told, with reluctance, that all the guides were in trouble, and as it was the beginning of Ramadan, it was an easy matter to loose one's temper as all were fasting. Evi- dently this one noisy fellow had forgotten himself a rare occurrence among Arabs or fellahs. There were ominous whisperings near me, and presently my dragoman said, in a sort of pleading tone : "If our mother would speak THE PYRAMIDS. LEAVING CAIRO. 245 to him, I am sure his head would cool down and his spirit, too, would keep the fast." I sent to ask the turbulent guide if he would kindly come to me. He was evidently surprised, and perhaps not altogether pleased, at being thus cut short in his forcible argument; but he did not betray any ill feeling and came at once. I asked him as a "venerable" guide (I think he was about thirty) concerning something of his most important calling. He was far too intelligent not to understand my tactics, and far too reli- gious not to feel his fault; but we understood each other at once, and talked freely upon the spiritual merits of keeping Ramadan, of which I heartily approved, and soon we became not only good, but confidential friends, and he was as quiet as a lamb. Then my dragoman was drawn off and spoken with aside, but soon returned to say that there were two or three other "ugly fellows" among their number, to whom I was also asked to speak: "an old and cruel man," they said, "given to beating younger ones; but," they insisted, "as he was an old man, he must be respected"; no one dared gainsay a man with a white beard; as age is always respected with Mussulmans. But I was "still older," as they kindly told me with venerating salaams, "old enough to be his mother," (the "ugly" man seemed to be about sixty) they were sure I could work a miracle. I invited the venerable man to come to me. He, too, quite understood, for these fellahs are as "quick" as Yankees and when I told him how necessary it was for old men to give an example of rectitude and gentleness, if not, with all these modern exhibitions of disrespect and presumption on the part of young men what was to be- come of the world? Whereupon he kissed the hem of my garment and took up and continued my theme to the listen- ing crowd with the tact of a modern diplomat, the wisdom of a son of Solomon (as he claimed to be) and the gentle- ness of a disciple of St. John. THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Meanwhile, I noticed that the young sheik, sitting apart with pen and inkhorn, was writing very carefully on a large sheet of paper held in the palm of his hand, and scan- ning the men as if counting them. I ventured to ask those about me if they knew what he was writing. I now 7 de- tected a strong hesitation to speak on their part, but after some rapid words exchanged among them, one of the lead- ing men came nearer and said with a profound salaam: "Ah, very venerable mother, you have come to us in a day of great calamity ! and we are so cast down and so ashamed that no one has dared to tell you ; but, as I know that Allah lias sent you to us, and it was for this reason we urged you to preach to us, perhaps you can give us some words of consolation to carry to our wives and mothers who are in such dark sorrow to-day!" I assured him of my entire sympathy and perfect w r ill- ingness to do all in my power for any work of justice, and then he said: "You may have seen in the papers that one of our Guides of the Pyramids was arrested yesterday for bad conduct/'- I had not, and he went on to tell me that as there was perfect solidarity among them; if one was guilty of misdemeanor and condemned, all must suffer punishment ; "so," he continued, "to-morrow, at least fifty of us must go to prison ! And what disgrace for us but above all for our parents!" (It must be borne in mind that the guides are an important body in Egypt, and es- pecially those of the Pyramids at Cairo.) The sheik, then, lie informed me, was taking down the names of those con- demned to suffer, though innocent. When I had heard the full particulars of the case, I asked the men to help me down from my high seat and went to the young sheik who rose to receive me. I told him frankly that I knew of liis trouble and embarrassment, and I began to plead for the guides, for he was the Judge to settle the case. But evidentlv, it was the old hard law of Moses we had to deal THE PYRAMIDS. LEAVING CAIRO. 247 with, and the sheik shook his head and said politely, there was nothing to be done. I was. struck by the firmness of this young man who seemed to be no more than twenty- two years old. He was fully conscious of his responsibil- ity, and could let no sentimental persuasion interfere with his duty. Then I said: "You are a true believer in the Prophet, and I in the Messiah, and we both well know that the Mercifulness of God is the Highest of all His attrib- utes; and every chapter of your Koran begins with an appeal to Allah 'ever clement and merciful!' As in this we are of one faith and as I come among you a Christian, and also a wife, mother, and grandmother advanced in years, and as it is the great feast of Ramadan I ask you in the name of Him who is Clement and Merciful, to let these innocent men, for this time, go free." He remained silent for a few moments with his eyes lowered to the ground; and then he tore the paper in twain! There was a sudden stillness all about the Pyra- mid! I clasped the courageous young sheik's hand and said : "My son, I thank you in the name of Allah !" Then there was a closing-in about me, of these poor men, and what expressions of joy and gratitude on their faces ! and words of thanks enough to last me all my life. Then they asked me to "preach some more to them"- which I did from the high pulpit of the Pyramid. At the end of my discourse they all bound themselves into a "temperance and anti-tobacco league," promising not to follow the bad example of travelers against whom I warned them without stint, and they also promised to show greater obedience to their parents, and to keep the Ramadan in the "spirit" as well as in the "letter." The temperance pledge was almost superfluous with them as they never drink wine or any fermented beverage unless induced to do so by Christians ! As to the tobacco that is one of the modern pests of Egypt, as it is of our 248 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. countries, and, indeed, of the whole world; but I hope a good many of my friends of the Pyramids, have kept their promise. The young sheik was profound in his thanks for what I had said, and asked me, as did all the men, to come again with assurance that they would never forget me nor that day, and I know they never will, nor shall I. They will be assured of this, if, perhaps, they read these lines some day as they sit in the shadow of the Great Pyramid. At parting, an old sheik of the Pyramids gave me what he called a "seal to seal the day," which I was told was a lump of compact and petrified manna. (?) I shall keep it in remembrance of that day, and also as a sugges- tion of the great cloud of manna which the typhoon of Egypt swept from off the rich fields of the Delta and across the Dead Sea into the desert to feed the children of Israel whom Moses was leading toward Sinai. As we drove back to Cairo in the sweet and solemn gloaming, there was a different spell tipon us than in the early morning. The young bays received no further ur- ging onward; the little tattered footman lay cuddled up at the feet of the dark immobile coachman ; the dragoman had nothing more to say nor had we. Deep unutterable gratitude possessed our souls, linking them with every creature, and all nature to the dim mysterious Past through the incomprehensible Present adown the fathomless ages of aspiration and effort of the Future into the Absolute and Eternal Harmony. . . . Thus we were borne through the silent twilight, and into the soft Egyptian night .... We tore ourselves away from Cairo; and I do not wonder that the English and everybody else wish to remain there forever! Many friends of diverse nations and religions: Copts, Moslems, Greeks, Armenians, Dervishes, and Babists; THE PYRAMIDS. LEAVING CAIRO. 249 Maronites, Catholics, Romanists, and Protestants; Ara- bians, French, Americans, English, Syrians, Persians, and Turks; came to the train with presents flowers and many loving words and benediction to say the parting. A venerable sheik among them said : "You came in doubt but you brought us peace, and now you carry away our hearts ! Allah will surely bless you !" We were already in the train when a secretary of the Khedive arrived saying that Her Highness, the Khedevea- Mother would be pleased to see me. Alas! I could only express my regrets at not having this great honor and privilege for the train was moving and the dinner with the Governor of Alexandria would be waiting, and, also, our kind host at the station. . . ."Adieu, adieu! and God willing au revoir!" For a better idea of the- profound religious sentiments which actuated our Moslem friends in all this fair and loving speech of adieux, I will give a translation from Arabic, of a letter to Pere Hyacinthe, which was received just before we left from leading Moslems in Cairo: "MOST VENERABLE APOSTLE OF GOD ! "A few of the representatives of the large audience who were present at your conference on the Reconciliation of Christianity and Islam, desire to express their unani- mous appreciation of the rare and lofty eloquence which marked your discourse. "The arguments which you employ to dissipate the false prejudices of the ignorant classes, and of a certain category of European fanatics, have won for you the gratitude of all sensible people who have had the good fortune to hear you and more particularly of the Mussulmans. "You are aware that the Mussulmans believe, as do Christians, in all the Prophets whom God has sent : Jesus, 250 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Moses, Abraham, etc., etc. They believe also in the prin- ciples of Jewish and Christian religions, though they do not admit certain interpretations given to the records of these religions, after the time of the Prophets. "At all periods a great number of Christians have- agreed with the followers of Mohammed upon the prin- ciples of Islam, but the great majority of Christians are opposed to the Mussulmans touching the secondary part of the Moslem belief: that which regards Mohammed as a Prophet sent of God. "These opponents have not been content to deny the mission of this great Prophet, but they have even carried their rancor so far as to speak evil of his works, whose extent they do not know, and to bring against his memory those false accusations which you have attempted to re- fute. The whole Mussulman world and every friend of peace and reconciliation between the two religions hope that you will declare to the entire European and Christian world the truth which you have been brought to recognize ! We are convinced that, thanks to your eloquence, and to the sincerity with which you speak, your efforts will be crowned with success, and that we shall soon see a great number of Europeans following your example and admit- ting the undoubted merits of the Moslem faith merits which no reasonable mind could possibly deny. "Those who enter upon this path, when once freed from that hatred which has estranged them from Mussul- mans, when once they entertain a sentiment of sincere friendship, and feel that we are all brethren in the belief of One God will then suffer with our sufferings, will interest themselves in what concerns us, and will wish for Mussulmans all the good that they would wish their Christian brethren, and will hold out to them a helping hand in misfortune. "Then, only, will the world form one great alliance of THE PYRAMIDS. LEAVING CAIRO. 25! mutual help for the maintenance of law and order with- out which humanity can find no happiness. "May God help you in your task and assist you to find in the path of Truth the accomplishment of all your hopes." (Here follow the signatures of a large number of the foremost Moslem citizens of Cairo, headed by a representa- tive of the venerable Sheik-ul-Islam who is the leading professor at the great Mosque of El-Azar, the secretary of His Highness the Khedive, etc., etc.) CHAPTER XXIX. MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES. I HAVE been asked so repeatedly what I think of mis- sionaries and missionary work that it becomes a con- scientious duty to say here something of what I do think though not all for that would be- if not uncharitable at least unnecessary. Christ did not found the Church; that was the work of St. Paul and the Apostles. But He did found the great Universal and Apostolic work of Missions. He com- manded His disciples to go out into the world and preach the Gospel : His Gospel the Redeeming Gospel of Repent- ance and Forgiveness; the practical Gospel of building up a new manhood by individual conduct and virtue; the glorious Gospel of the Divine Fatherhood, and the loving Gospel of Universal Brotherhood ! From what I have heard from reliable sources, and from what I have seen myself, I believe another Gospel than this is often preached, and another fraternity than this is often practised : the travested gospel of sectarianism, the distorted fraternity of selfishness, and the abominable gospel of Religious Domination ! I believe, however, that immense good has been done by missions; and, also im- mense harm. During all our travels in Africa, Egypt, Palestine, Syria, Greece, and Turkey, we tried but failed to find a single convert from Islam to Christianity; and we have never found an ideal converted Jew. MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES. 253 One thing is certain: much money is spent upon mis- sions without great appreciable results. Instead of apos- tles who let their light so shine that men seeing their good works glorify their Father which is in Heaven, what do \ve too often find? Teachers of sects and of doctrine manufactured of men; and often impiously holding up God's word to justify their heresies, instead of being ear- nest helpers and humble teachers, proving by their lives the faith which they would inculcate. We rejoice to say that we have seen, however, especially in Turkey and Syria, something of those grand missions of godly life those colleges which do honor to Christian learning and devotion; and which are of incalculable help, not only to many and various Oriental Christians, but to those who are professedly non-Christians; following the Great Teacher at a distance. It is a pleasure and a duty to men- tion the American college at Beyrout, founded and under the direction of that grand Christian the Reverend Dr. Bliss, and those at Constantinople by another god-sent teacher the Rev. Dr. Washburn; and the American Col- lege for Girls, whose president is our distinguished com- patriot, Miss Mary M. Patrick, Ph. D. These three Amer- ican institutions are grand examples of high civilization, wisdom, and unsectarian Christianity, given to the world through the benevolent tolerance of the Sublime Porte and the mercy of the Sublimer one of Eternal Truth and Charity! These great teachers do not seek to proselyte from one institution to another; but cultivate and elevate all into a higher appreciation of man- and his duty, as well as of his responsibility to God and to their respective people and countries. The American Protestant Missions of Cairo and Assiout are too well known by the good work they have done for years, to need any eulogy from me. As I believe it becomes duty to give advice when we feel quite sure it is needed, so I beg to say for all whom 254 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. it may concern, that Missionaries should not only know something of the language of the people among whom they go, but should not be ignorant of their manners and customs, and ready to adopt their modes of living as much as is possible, such as dress and eating. Good doctors must know their patients well if they hope to cure. Mis- sionaries are doctors, and_ they should sympathize^jiot only \\othJheiiMlls jind^ misfortunes, but their opinions, beliefs,. and prejudices; gently infusing strength, imparting knowl- edge wisely, and carrying a carefully shaded lamp to weak eyes. Above all they should study their religion with re- spect; willing to learn as well as to teach; loving those- wKoliiiJjiej^ or jsave ; taking a real prac- tising interestin^jvh^^ them; ren3enng all possible help, inlsmaT^ in^the^SogFlm^ portant : washingll^^ cleaning sores,, bracing up ^wfl^aji^developing conscience, ^stablisff sympathetic relations, anTTaTT^lTej-^^ the hard work. Indeed it is only the hard work well done that brings happiness. Touching the Coptic Church, we feel that the inter- ference of any sect or denomination with this most ancient of all Churches, is as disloyal to its Divine Founder as it is illegal in the ecclesiastical realm, save where suck interference is the kindly help of affectionate brotherhood. And the Copts need help, as do all other Oriental sections of the Church of Christ; and by this need, charity is fostered between them, which leads to friendly relations, and tends to unite all in one. Rome has done in Egypt what she has tried to do with all the other Oriental Churches, not only with doubtful success, but with posi- tive disaster to Christian faith; bringing dissension, bitterness, hatred, war, and massacre. She has long ago- succeeded in detaching about 100,000 Copts from their mother-church, and too often for earthly consideration, MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES. 255 thus creating a small schism which bears the name of the Coptic Catholic Church. Protestantism has also made an effort with less success as far as numbers go, but has caused animosity where it should have brought only light and help. We heard many intelligent Moslems, Copts, and other Christian people in Egypt, deploring the lack of comprehension on the part of well meaning Protestants in this matter. They are here, as elsewhere, doing good in the way of schools, but they damage all their other good work by their proselyting efforts, which are almost fruit- less ; or if they produce fruit, it is bitter : distrust, feud, and hatred. What the venerable Coptic Church needs and every other Church East or West, is an infusion of the pure practical Gospel into individual life, strictly and conscientiously avoiding all divisions and dissensions. For such a great and noble work, we believe, American non- sectarian Protestantism is the best adapted; and for the reasons that America, with her large and wholesome char- ity, and her beneficent law of non-intervention, has, by the marvelous Providence of God, no political rivalries ; and, I fear not to say that, with the remarkable wisdom of her men and the loving and energetic faith of her women Christianity has to-day, in that happy land, its best ex- pression. One of the most distinguished Christians of Egypt, and a friend of the missionaries, said to us: "These mis- sionaries would undoubtedly do far greater good, and ren- der real service, if they would cease this attempt at prose- lyting ; but," he continued in a critical but deploring tone, "they would then, of course, lose their raison d'etre!" One of the most needed works in the world is to send missionaries among their compatriots living in foreign lands, looking after them with all kindness, particular!}' in their moral dangers and spiritual lives, thus prevent- ing the introduction of the vices which belong to our higher 256 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. civilization and lower morals. It is well known how mis- sionaries sent to pagan countries to convert the people to the true God, are immediately followed by the cohorts of Satan: so-called Christians, who set up, first of all, the seductive idol, Lucre, which adapts its worship to all re- ligions ; teaching simple peoples how to propitiate it, bringing their libations of alcohol, their fumes of opium and tobacco, and celebrating openly the most abominable debaucheries in its worship; poisoning and killing those nations who are seeking light and stretching out their hands like children for the Bread of Life! Occasionally Orientals unintentionally send us a direful plague ; but we, with full intention, have fastened upon them a permanent, and deadly pest, a quadruple combination of poisons which kill both body and soul : alcohol, opium, nicotine, and syph- ilis. These pests cannot be rooted out, as is cholera and plague, by International Hygienic Societies; but by the long persistent personal endeavor of millions of virtuous men and women at home and abroad; with God's Grace added. No! I do not believe in missions that are the fore- runners of such abominable work; and if missionaries are incapable of controlling these Christians who follow in their wake, how can they hope to convince the pagan or convert the savage? As to the Moslems, happily their sublime faith and innate sobriety make them almost proof against our influence; though in large cities where Euro- peans have preponderating power, their deleterious influ- ence is deplorable. In Moslem countries, as everywhere, there is another powerful resisting force: the women; and to them we look with admiration and confidence. We have in the Gospel of Christ the purest light ever given to the world ; but alas ! among its followers some of the weakest and some of the most iniquitous among men. Peter and Judas do not stand alone. , MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES. 257 I am sorry to say that there is sometimes among mis- sionaries a lack of the most preliminary common sense. For example, I visited a Protestant school during our trav- els where there were about 40 small children : Copts, Jews, and Moslems; and so little were they, and so high were the benches, that not a quarter of them could touch the floor with their feet! This was simply persecution for those poor little things who always sat on the ground at home. And worse than all they were crowded into a sun- less room where ventilation was entirely lacking, save from a small door; while out of school they live almost constantly in the open air and in the sun. They need both. There was not a happy looking child among them and sev- eral were weeping! This missionary teacher should have had his class out-doors, with all those little tots sitting in the sand and himself too! I know of Catholic mission- aries in Africa who do not hesitate to wear the Arab dress, cross their feet and sit in the sand teaching their Roman doctrine ; and, moreover, the people like them .... To one missionary and his wife, to whom I carried a letter of introduction, I paid a seasonable visit; but the wife declined to see me because, as she sent me word, she "was not dressed well enough."- I have called often, un- announced, upon Moslem women, but have never heard this excuse or any other, as their hospitality exceeds their vanity. The sequel to my call upon this missionary's wife, however, was somewhat consoling, for I was told that when she watched me from behind the curtains as I left the premises, she exclaimed: "Oh, if I had known she came to call upon us in such a simple costume I should not have been ashamed to receive her as I was!" I will state that my "costume" consisted of a light gray woolen gown "all of a piece" of a style we call Princess, and which is like the felleen women's, and a large white cotton veil that covered mv straw hat and also served as a mantle like 258 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM.. the Arab women. And if there was undue luxury or ex- travagance in the length and breadth of such a veil, its justification is in its refractive qualities, and its palliation in its economic measures: it cost four cents a yard, and "washes" beautifully. At another school, [you see, dear friends, the "chief's among ye"- -] also Protestant, the odors in the court, and even in the classroom, were so obnoxious that we were forced to leave at once; and though the windows were large and plenty of them, they were all hermetically closed. The air was simply pestiferous, and the otherwise fine- looking students were listlessly drowsy, for lack of oxygen. While we are on this subject of cleanliness, I can say that where Moslems live, exclusively, there are no foul odors or obnoxious sights. They keep strictly to the law laid down by Moses in the great encampment in the wilder- ness. We have not unfrequently been deeply pained by hear- ing from some missionaries (and some of whom write books, or are correspondents of religious papers) long ac- counts of the faults and defects of the people among whom they were sent, criticising or condemning all and every- thing, with seldom, or never, a word of approbation, sym- pathy, or pity for the ignorant, suffering, or oppressed race to whom they are "sent"; but not of God! When a fellow-being needs help, be he a brother or stranger and you enter his home, be it tent, hut, or palace, you should not begin by decrying his dwelling, manners, and customs; and mayhap, fired with unrighteous zeal, induce him into disobeying father and mother, and perhaps, de- serting wife and children, abandoning home and family, when you should help him to put his house in order, clean it out, perhaps, with its mould and vermin, and give care for and elevate his family making them tidy and happy. The trouble is that these poor people are not really MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES. 259 recognized as brethren, and little love is brought to bear in mission work, but much fear of "The Board/' "The So- ciety," or "The Committee" who sent them. There is one preliminary necessity, if we would hope for the triumph of Christianity in the unbelieving world, and I would like to say this in all loving confidence to every missionary: First of all get into the hearts of the people, and then be not afraid of living a simple, pure, Christian life yourself. And to every missionary society I would only reiterate what they know so well: the millions of Bibles and tracts, which are sent at such cost, to foreign lands, are of little use except to furnish fuel for fires as they often do. Better than these is the going forth of a few earnest men and women with genuine love in their hearts, -"called" of God, rather than "sent" by any Board or Committee. And such missionaries can do much work with moderate expenses, though they should certainly be well supported not only with money, but with affectionate appreciation. I am thankful to say that there are such and we have seen them. One of our profoundest regrets one of our principal reproaches, is for those missionaries who, actuated by a narrow spirit of sectarian proselytism, or being victims of ignorance, repudiate or ignore the value of other great religions of such incontestable superior order as those of Islam, India, and China, of which they should certainly have made careful study ; but of which many go forth into rich fields deplorably ignorant. As the three great monotheistic religions of Moses, Jesus, and Mohammed, have but one ultimate object: obe- dience to, and worship of God; and while I should cer- tainly oppose sending proselyting missionaries to any of these, I am not opposed to sending them to those inferior religions in which the knowledge of the Unique God is lacking; where cows and elephants, snakes and fetish are 2(X) THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. worshiped. Missionaries to these far-away brethren should seek first of all, and with the most charitable considera- tion and delicate firmness in faith, to turn the minds and hearts of unbelievers; first, toward the unity of faith in God Creator and Father of all men, then, in due time and naturally, to Him whom God sent as our Helper, Con- soler, Regenerator, the Messiah who was foretold, an- nounced, and expected to come to the earth by the Prophets of all religions : the Christ. With these simple but prelimi- nary tenets, all may concur without offense, division, or resentment, and mutual help and universal brotherhood be entered upon at once in practical, daily life leaving creeds and councils for theological seminaries. If God and Christ are real and if Truth, and Justice, and Charity should no longer be veiled, then go forward in their strength! You will find the recompense, for the most ig- norant will understand and accept the work of Regene- ration in heart and home mind and soul. Unfortunately through our ignorance and unwise zeal for our own sects, heresies, superstitions, and divisions, we too often disgust those whom we would convert to our faith with our pre- tended, or pretentious, Christianity, and thus deprive them of the true following of Christ. But, to be fair, we will reiterate it is not so much the fault of the mission- aries as it is of those w^ho send them ! I would recommend strongly and urgently lady doctors for all missionary fields. And of those who are not sent out as special mission- aries, but who are, perhaps, doing greater work, though unobserved and unpaid-for, in the homes, towns, highways, and byways in the ordinary trend of life ; Stationary Min- isters it is high time that every man and woman should be taught their first, continuous, and last lesson, without creed, cant, or cavil : Love to God and Love to man. CHAPTER XXX. ALEXANDRIA. AF Alexandria we were the guests of Aziz-Kahil-Bey r Vice-President of the Supreme Court, whose charm- ing- villa is at Ramleh, the fashionable suburb of the city. His Excellency is of Syrian parentage of the Arab race, and in religion of the Greek Uniate Church altogether the perfect Egyptian gentleman. We were here, as elsewhere, greatly edified at the am- icable relations existing between Mussulmans and Chris- tians. Of these latter there are numerous sects, confes- sions, and denominations ; but the prepondering Church is the Greek Orthodox, as it is throughout the Orient. Not only in ecclesiastical importance, but in financial pursuits, they take the lead. The Copts, being the only indigenous Christians, are important, exercising a quiet but widely felt influence, and count to advantage in the Egyptian government. We had letters from the Coptic Patriarch of Cairo to the Archbishop of Alexandria whom we found a very learned and most benevolent man, and seconded by an intelligent clergy. The climate of Egypt is so conducive to repose of nerves and mind, and calming of spirit, and, therefore, to con- ciliation and friendliness, that only virulent fanatics can enter into dogmatic quarrels there. If earth makes the man, atmosphere modifies him. It was to Egypt that Mary and Joseph turned their anxious eyes and troubled spirits, 262 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. in their day of peril; and it was there in that soft, pure air that the Child of the Holy Spirit breathed in, perhaps, His first loving inspiration which glorifies Him as the Prince of Peace. We were present at the first official visit of the new Mohammedan Governor, Sabry Pasha, to the Coptic Arch- bishop. They are both superior men. His Excellency, a tall well developed Arab of princely bearing, was sur- rounded by his staff. His Grace, the Archbishop, also Arab, tall and imposing in stature, was surrounded by his clergy Secular and Regular : i. e., the married and the monastic Priests. The Governor was educated in Europe, the Archbishop at the Alma Mater of the Coptic Church the great convent out in the desert, four days march from all civilization. Their schools of learning were most unlike, but the same progressive, fraternal, and patriotic spirit animates them both. We were deeply impressed there, as elsewhere, by the amicable relations of Orientals of different races, and sometimes of opposing religious beliefs. There is always mutual and dignified respect, blended with friendly, even affectionate, sentiment; for with the Oriental, the heart, though under control, is not, as with us, subservient or a slave to the brain. We visited the Coptic Cathedral and College in Alex- andria, and found the youth almost abreast with those of European schools. The first Coptic school for girls was opened during our visit, and we were invited to the cere- mony at which were the professors of the boys' college, teachers and clergy the Archbishop presiding. There were present about 200 in all and not a woman save myself. This seemed very strange to me, educated as I have been in America where women, and especially mothers, take equal interest with fathers if not more in the education of their sons and daughters; and participate in all public ALEXANDRIA. 263 and private meetings concerning them. (Nor is France much in advance of Egypt, for nowhere in that very pro- gressive and promising Republic, especially in public schools and colleges, are fathers or mothers allowed to visit the classes of their sons and daughters ! It is as un- fair as it is unwise; I should say rather that it is as ab- surd as it is reprehensible. But France has so much-to undo before she can do much ! ) I was, however, welcomed at the inauguration of this first Coptic school for girls, with every mark of courtesy and evident satisfaction. There were different discourses pertaining to this most salutary advance in the education of women in Egypt; but all was in Arabic. I was in- vited to speak on the important subject of women's edu- cation, having the English prefessor for translator. Ask- ing the venerable Archbishop's permission to speak freely and receiving his approbation, I began by saying that, for the proper education and culture of women, we must be- gin by the proper education and culture of men; there- fore, I begged the whole body to desist from smoking! This was startling, as I believe every man present had a cigarette in his mouth even the Archbishop. (Happily all the doors and windows of the vast hall were open- hence I live to tell the tale. ) Instantly the smoking ceased and soon, with the admirable ventilation the atmosphere became clear. My exordium gave evident surprise, but the Copts are Arabs and like the Moslems, seldom lose their self-posses- sion ; and to my great surprise and satisfaction, there were marks of approbation throughout the assembly. My remarks touching the American idea of women's participation in all that concerns humanity especially in the matter of education were warmly applauded. Some weeks after, when at Jerusalem, I received an Arab paper of Beyrout, in which was printed my little speech before 264 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. the Coptic Archbishop and professors in Alexandria, in- cluding what I said about smoking. This incident shows that Orientals have not the preju- dice against new ideas which we attribute to them. Use- ful and practical ideas, like good seed, spring up promptly in their warm, waiting soil. The Copts are not only willing but anxious to learn. Moslems are slower to accept modern methods of learning, because they are extremely jealous of their faith, and sus- picious of our false civilization. The lethargic state of the Copt Church has exposed it to incursions of foreign missionaries, particularly the Roman Catholic. To avoid new schism they should awake out of this stagnant con- dition; and we hope to see, ere long, an important center of Coptic theology and modern science established at Cairo or A^xa^dna^ C^^J^ um* * Tt~ ~"*, irfaut vainer e le\monde\ou le monde vous vainer a. Dear venerable Coptic Patriarch of Alexandria, you will read these lines; and I, therefore, lay them respect- fully at your feet kissing your hand which has given us such precious and munificent blessing in the name of Him who brought true Light and real Liberty into the world! As there is an end to everything under the sun, so alas ! there was to our visit to Egypt. On the steamer's deck we bade farewell to our kind host whose hospitality and intelligence had rendered our fortnight there one of the most agreeable as well as the most useful in acquiring knowledge of Egypt and its di- verse people and to other friends. As we steamed quietly out into the broad sea, Alexandria withdrew slowly into the distance and into the night, and into the Past, and we sailed for Jaffa nearing Jerusalem. We sighted land next morning, and among the many tongues we heard on the ship's deck, only one word fell into my heart, and that was "Palestine." CHAPTER XXXI. JAFFA. BEFORE leaving Alexandria, we had received an in- vitation of sojourn from the Coptic Archbishop of Jerusalem, who usually resides on his large estate at Jaffa. His dragoman* met us at the landing and we were driven through the strange city the streets being filled with all sorts of Orientals and Occidentals, and encumbered with camels and donkeys, out on the confines of the plains of Sharon, to the Archiepiscopal Residence where we met a patriarchal welcome from this venerable father in the faith. He is eighty years old, and his long life of hard work tells upon his hitherto good health, and he is now partially paralyzed^ unable to rise or walk alone. His reception was very touching. At the farther end of the long high room filled with sunshine flooding in from many windows seated on the high white divan between arm- pillows enveloped in his ample robes of violet satin, his venerable turbaned head erect, his thin white hands out- stretched to receive us; he was the perfect type of the Abrahamic Patriarch with a heart overflowing with Evangelical speech and tenderness. We could not speak his tongue nor he ours, but in those tears of gratitude at our coming, that trembled on * All Oriental Patriarchs and Archbishops, like all Ambassadors, have a dragoman attached to their person who is secretary, homme de confiance, charge d'affaires, or attache, and not to be confounded with a traveling dragoman. 266 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. his wan furrowed cheeks; and with those that welled within our hearts words were superfluous: w r e were in the home of a High-Priest of Israel in the arms of a loving father. During the winter the Archbishop lives in the convent near the Archiepiscopal Palace which he has evidently built for his friends and not for himself. It is the finest ecclesiastical residence in Palestine; modern and mag- nificent imposing in architecture but simple in appoint- ments, with wide high verandas and terraces, numerous rooms and immense corridors. In the midst of the vast orange groves, on an eminence, it overlooks the Medi- terranean, and commands the beautiful plain of Sharon. Here we were at last, all alone, save for the attendants ; and had ample time and room to rest, of which we had great need, having been constantly in movement and sur- rounded by much and varied people, with divers and in- tensely interesting occupation for the previous six months. Despite the palatial residence, what Evangelical sim- plicity of life and manners ! The dragoman, who was also our cook, was a deacon of the church, a native, that is an Arab, and born in Jerusalem. But what delicious, though simple food he gave us to eat! and with what constant kindness he thought of everything for our comfort. He was married and a father, and hoped soon to be ordained priest. He spoke English well and a little French; and was devoted to the venerable Archbishop and to his church serving the altar and chanting vespers barefooted. At Easter-tide he goes up to Jerusalem to serve in the Coptic chapel in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre wearing- magnificent brocaded vestments and tiara. Those were grateful days in Jaffa ; rest for the body and beatitude for the soul. All through the long sweet hours of this Oriental springtime, w r e sat on the broad ter- race overlooking the luxuriant plain of Sharon, with its JAFFA. 267 palms swaying above the vast orchards of orange trees, which are always in blossom and always in fruit; the grass and bushes all filled with insects chirping their joy, and every tree vocal w r ith singing birds the air vibrating with humming bees and luminous with golden sheen of pollen; the warm sunlight over it all, with the stretch of Paradise sweeping away to the fading hills of Judca~: . . To the North lies Galilee to the East, Jerusalem. There it lies, just over those undulating lines like the New Jeru- salem unseen and yet so near ! The soft breeze coming in from the sea fanned us with subtle perfumes of orange-blossoms, jessamine, myrtle, heliotrope, roses, and violets. It was indeed the Garden of the Lord. The day after our arrival was Sunday, and to crown it all, after this communion with God and nature, we were invited to the Holiest of all Communions, that of God in His Son. The church, palace, convent, and clergy-house, are all near, in the same vast enclosure. Under the trelliswork of jessamine and orange-trees, we passed to the quiet, lovely church, almost hidden in verdure, where a com- pany of new friends of the old faith awaited us beneath the peristyle to give us the welcome of brotherhood. Ah, what a befitting introduction to the preaching would be such a gospel welcome, given at the door of our churches, to friends rich and poor and especially to strangers ! There are but few Copts at Jaffa, and the church is small but built in style, prettily painted within, and old enough to give it a venerable air, light, airy, and clean. Shoes and sandals are left at the door in a long orderly line, and all enter in stockings or, in the case of the humbler class and little children, barefooted. The floor is covered with fine matting and carpets upon which all sit or kneel. The only seats were two chairs brought for 268 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. us. The men were at the right on entering, the women at the left and in whole families little children abound- ing, not constrained, though all were perfectly docile and well behaved; little things of two years or less, kneeling and clasping their tiny dimpled hands as none could do save those who drink in devotion with their mother's milk. The matins were chanted in the familiar Arabic meas- ure which we had learned to love. ( How delighted we were to hear it, afterwards, in the Matin service of the Greek church in Paris !) The choir was composed of all the men and boys of the congregation, who stand around the lec- tern before the altar steps, and all sing heartily. There was a magnificent supplementary choir of hundreds of little birds who flew and swung through the high oval windows in the cornice, quite outdoing all earthly symphonies; and when the chanting ceased, they, too, sang less and only kept the cadences w.ith their gentle chirping. Many of them took their places on cornice, capital, or picture frame, and also (dear little confiding creatures!) all along the outstretched arms of the Saviour on the great sculptured crucifix which is lifted above the Holy Screen. Some even carried their Heavenly daring so far as to alight and sing God's praise from the Crown of Thorns that encircled His sacred Head. I must confess that I felt a momentary impression as if this conduct on the part of those little birds was, if not sacrilege, at least highly improper; and my mind suggested window panes or wire grating to keep them out ; but, as the Sanctus was chanted, there came flying, flashing through the holy song such a cloud of them, and with such a united cry of joy, that my soul, too, was smitten with worship; and my lips taking- lip the song, I asked within me: why shut out God's wit- nesses which "flock to the windows?" this loving Heav- enly choir! Oh no! let the birds come and go in our JAFFA. 269 churches as they will! Let them awake within our dor- mant souls new paeans of worship and praise! Next to the birds, the little children had their way in this quiet Coptic church ; but more discreetly, going with worshipful demeanor about from one end of the church to another, and no one said them nay. And now was enacted a scene unique and mostjtouch- ing. The officiating Priest was reading of the Holy Scrip- tures, when there glided from out the company of women a little child of about two and a half years old, all clad in purple velvet with gold lace, and with pretty little bare feet tending toward the Altar. Though the mother made unsuccessful effort to retain him, the little fellow was evi- dently bent upon a larger liberty, and simply made his way quietly and with decorum among the worshippers, straight up toward the officiating Priest who was his father, for Coptic Priests, save monks, must all be mar- ried. The surrounding men, without a word, or even a disturbing movement, made gentle effort to detain the child; but no, he silently, and with sweet determination, would go to his father, who feeling his little son clinging to his robe, without the least turning of the head or slack- ing of the reading, put down his hand gently and stroked the baby head, to reassure him and keep him quiet But the little fellow would not be reassured in that manner, and wanted to be taken up! Evidently nothing would satisfy the loving child but his father's arms; so the Priest, without a break in the Holy Text, stooped and took up the child, laying his head upon his father's breast. There the son found what he had sought and never moved again. How vividly came to my mind the words of the great High Priest, the loving Jesus: "Suffer little chil- dren to come unto me and forbid them not, for of such is the Kingdom of Heaven." The chapter was a long one and the intoning slow, 27O THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. and when it was finished, the little lamb was fast asleep. Without the least embarrassment or interruption of the service, the father handed him to a deacon who carried him to the arms of his mother. What a beautiful lesson of Holy Fatherhood in Holy Priesthood ! Sadly we compared the celibate clergy of our Western Roman Church--! say "Western," for the Oriental Roman Churches retain their married priesthood, and have never allowed any interference of Pope or Jesuit in this holy, Apostolic Right. O, guardians of the Church ! let the little children come in come into their rightful domain, into the beautiful world into the churches in their natural, normal, and holy places! These and still happier thoughts possessed us as we left the beautiful, vine-covered church and our Communion with the brethren, with the birds and babes, in the Holy Land. Another scene rose in our minds so far away France, and our dear home! Another priest's son a manly youth with upturned brow and soul our own dear son our Emmanuel and by his side a fair, fond maiden awaiting his father's benediction to their marriage. Holy, Happy Day! CHAPTER XXXII. AT LAST ! UP TO JERUSALEM ! SO long had this chord been sounding in my soul, that when at last I stood upon the soil of the Holy Land, I felt myself no stranger, I was only nearing home for which I had been hungry-hearted all my life! When we took our places in the train at Jaffa, among all those strangers and amid all the pell-mell of the hundreds of Russian pilgrims, there seemed, in spite of it all, a cer- tain humanizing progress between the material and the di- vine that we enjoyed even the delay of two hours in starting. There is nothing in the world so interesting to me as Humanity, and the greater the variety, the greater the interest. I felt no shock nor any regret at having a railway from Jaffa to Jerusalem, for I regarded it as a fore- runner of the perfect reconciliation of science and religion. Then it will help immensely in renewing the life of the de- serted land in making these barren hills of Judea again bring forth grain and olive-trees, and all manner of suc- culent fruit, and the plain of Sharon to redouble its blooming roses ! As for that heterogeneous mass of people gathered in the strange railway station coming up hither from all parts of the world, for the same religious purpose that brought us here, I felt a fraternal tenderness, and could not refrain from speaking to and clasping hands with many scores of these fellow-pilgrims some young and some old, some strong and healthy, others weak and 272 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. sickly, some rich, but many poor. I shall never forget an aged and decrepit Russian peasant woman from the borders of Siberia, clad in short quilted petticoats and high heavy boots not comely but with such blue, wist- ful eyes, with something of the sepulchre within their sad depths. We could speak no intelligible word with each other, and for the means of communication we were limited to making the sign of the cross each in our man- ner : she, as Orthodox Greek, from brow to heart and from the right shoulder to the left; I, as Latin, from the left shoulder to the right; but we were too glad and joyous at the meeting to question the form. The Cross was all that was needed to show that we were of the same faith in Him who bore it and sisters going up to where "the women" stood when they crucified Him. And such piles of luggage! stacks and mountains of it the belongings of those Russian peasants ; sacks, and bundles, and boxes that we did not start on time: one never does in the Orient ; but once you have breathed that ambiant contentment you need not be troubled about it ... And how comforting it was to leave time, with our watches, behind us! And what a guarantee! No time- table, and only one train to go and come. No fear of collisions. All was as it should be. ... At length the signal was given: a steam-whistle in the Holy Land! Just think of it, my dear Mr. Croaker! a real Christian steam- whistle of an English locomotive ! And if the conscience of Christian England allows the making of idols for her subjects in India, may she not also make steam-whistles to help us Christian pagans up to Jerusalem ? I have a passion for machinery, and I like no, I love the steam-engine for there is divinity in it. To the scan- dal of venerable ladies of the ancien regime, I will say that at the age of 16, I made my studies of applied science AT LAST ! UP TO JERUSALEM ! 2/3 on a locomotive, out in what was then the "Far West"- k 'running the train/' "switching off," "backing out," and "slowing up," "cutting the air," to the delight of the "darkey" stoker, and the silent anxiety of the professor who, beside the engineer, was the only passenger aboard. I have meddled with clay and dabbled in colors and written rhymes and have had my seasons of enthusiasm for~Per- icles and Raphael, Michelangelo, and tutti quanti of mas- ters ; but nothing* of art affects me with such emotion as does the steam-engine! that magnificent and complicated iron monster, endowed with supernatural life! All light, or electricity, and heat come from Heaven, and all phys- ical and moral strength come from God. The English consul at Jerusalem was in the train with us and did good service as a courteous guide, pointing out different Biblical places of interest. An hour's ride across the ever verdant, though sadly neglected plain of Sharon, where, however, we rejoiced to see evidence of recent cultivation particularly in the Jewish settlements. For the remainder of our four hours' journey, there was nothing but sand and rocky hills; rarely a tree or a blade of grass, with here and there a path for goats and sheep the same as in the days when The Twelve went through this arid waste, to carry His com- mand to preach the Gospel to all the world ! Nothing but desolation and the overwhelming History of the Al- mighty's Revelation and Visitation to man! Our day was turning gray and cold as we wound up among the bare hills ; and finally, all was silent in our company. At length the train stopped, and we looked out of the windows. No city, no fortress, no dome nor tower, not even a ruined wall! Nothing but a low modern building with a modest sign across its front: JERUSALEM. CHAPTER XXXIII. JERUSALEM. SOLOMON'S TEMPLE. CHURCHES. HOLY SEPULCHRE. THE GRAND RABBI. WE had reached the goal of our earthly pilgrimage at three-score years: We stood in Jerusalem! We dwelt on Zion's Hill over against the Tower of David. Early the next morning after our arrival we started for the central spot of the world: THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. Through those narrow, tortuous streets, through the cold rain and mud, through the crowding throng of clean and unclean, washed and unwashed people, amidst that torturing jargon of unknown tongues, among those real- istic pictures and uncanny sights; we wended our way heavy-hearted, downward toward the Calvary. An un- wonted sadness possessed me. There was a faint religious odor of incense and sandal-wood in the air, which alone comforted us. Stopping often and gazing vacantly into a moving multitude of strange faces we descended the crowded streets and unequal steps, and finally came upon the great square or open court. We passed through the door and stood within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The Moslem "doorkeeper in the house of the Lord" was at his post and we saluted him with respect. We stood, my husband and I, for a time in silence then we pressed each other's hands as if going on a long journey into unknown lands, and went each our way, wishing to be THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. ^rapfc UNIVERSITY AL OF JERUSALEM. 275 alone, with no human influence alone with Him whom we had come to seek. . . . Long I knelt and prayed my head against the marble that covered THE EMPTY TOMB; but calm, so calm, so almost cold! Had that broken slab of alabaster par- alyzed my brain, frozen my heart? I asked for a sign; and when at last I rose and came away one sentiment remained, and that was full and strong / felt not His Hol\ Presence there but an overpowering Absence! . . . Then up the Calvary ; alone and on my knees my face to the rock my faith full and serene; yet He was not there! He is risen! And thenceforth, more and more, whenever I went to the Sacred Place which is called the Holy Sepulchre and which is believed by the majority of Christians to be the spot "where they laid Him" the tomb where they laid the Son of God, the Crucified Saviour more and more I felt His absence! But if my heart was sad, O, so sad! my soul was lifted up for I felt that He zvas risen! From the Holy Sepulchre we went to the Place of ^^ailing, and wept with the Children of Israel on the ruins of the Great Temple. Besides many venerable fathers and young men, there were aged matrons and fair young daughters of Sarah, Rebecca, and Rachel whose cheeks were wet w r ith tears. But wherefore weep ye? men, matrons, and maidens of Israel? Weep no longer for the past, but for the pres- ent: that the children of God, Jews and Christians are so unrighteously divided ! The w^alls of Jerusalem will be builded again; but not as of old for the prophecy holds good: "All things shall pass away and there shall be new heavens and a new earth." Behold! O Israel! behold the Son of Mary, the spotless Jewish maiden of the house of David, the 276 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Anointed One is yours ! O, abandon not Him ! for He has never abandoned you! Our next visit was to the Governor of Jerusalem, Ib- rahim Pasha, to whom we had brought letters from Ghasi Muchtar Pasha, the Sultan's High Commissioner at Cairo. We found His Excellency a most intelligent, kind, and courteous gentleman putting us quite at ease in excellent French, and from the first he was bent upon making our visit to Jerusalem and Palestine as interesting and agree- able as possible, taking us under his protection and send- ing us every day a military escort of one or two Turkish soldiers to accompany us in all our visits and peregrina- tions. This courteous attention of the Moslem Ruler of the country made all our excursions and studies in and about Jerusalem both easy and profitable. At sight of the Sul- tan's soldiers, crowds gave way and all gates and doors, mosques, churches, etc., .were opened at once and with all clue ceremony. We shall ever bear him in grateful re- membrance : Ibrahim Pasha, the model Turkish gentleman and Governor. Our next visit was to the Grand Rabbi of Jerusalem, and to get to his dwelling, we were indeed glad to have the military escort. I was mounted on a fine white donkey who climbed steps and stairs, waded through pools of mud, and traversed hillocks of ofTal with perfect ease and be- nignity. But suddenly he stood stock still. We had come to an arch over the way which would scarcely admit of the passage of a person on foot and I must be lifted off into the sea of offense; and how those -two gallant soldiers managed to carry me through must ever remain a mystery. This remarkable ride had put me in a cheerful frame of mind for inconveniences do not easily trouble me but I dislike filth, and now my spirits almost failed, not alone for my discomfiture, but at finding that this wretched way was the only approach to the dwelling of the High- JERUSALEM. 2 77 Priest of Israel! I have visited the slums in New York and London, (in Paris there are none), but the Jewish slums in Jerusalem outdo all for filth. But now we were fairly out of the mud and soon turned into a small door, and what a change ! Here all was clean so clean that women were there to place bits of carpet down that we might not walk upon the immaculate floor-s. The next day was the Sabbath, and no sign of dust or dirt must be within their dwelling ! It was not a palace where dwelt the Grand Rabbi of Jerusalem, it was a rookery. But all inharmoniuos surroundings and circum- stances were forgotten when we stood in his venerable presence. Tall, well-built, with great dignity and grace, over eighty years of age our ideal Abraham. He was clad in flowing robes of light mauve cashmere, and a long turban of plaited silk of the same color. To his ven- erable mien was added a most affable manner, and, un- like the sober Moslems, a constant smiling expression per- vaded his benevolent face. Jews of all kinds are usually quiet and of kindly but reserved manners, carrying some- times a solemn contentment in their faces as those who possess the truth; and can therefore bear all things; but they are never sullen. Jewesses are remarkable for their serenity of expression and their self-possession. Both Jew and Jewess are at home wherever they are, adaptability being one of their strong characteristics; otherwise they would have been extinct centuries ago. They belong, not to Judea alone but to the whole world, and are they not the "Chosen People 7 '? This they know. The Grand Rabbi did not expect us, but a patriarchal welcome was ready. He spoke Spanish, being of the Span- ish Rite, as are most of the native Jews of Jerusalem, so we got on very well and discussed many things relative to the state of his people in Jerusalem and in Palestine, where they are numerous and increasing more perhaps 278 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. than elsewhere, outnumbering Moslems or Christians. Yet they live retired and take little or no part in anything which pertains to public life. Although they are abso- lutely free and unmolested indeed freer in Turkey than in any other land they seem a hunted down people in this their ancient capital/ in spite of the inner and in- timate satisfaction of living, and the certainty of being buried in the Holy City. Yet through and over all, a calm and trusting assurance is the dominant trait of the Jewish face and character. The Grand Rabbi returned our visit in state as be- came his high office with his two body-guards and other attendants in gold trappings and long scimitars. As he is a state officer, when he passed before the Citadel, which was opposite our windows, the soldiers gave him the mili- tary salute due to his high rank. He was accompanied by Nissim Behar, the excellent Director of the Professional School of the Jewish Alliance in Jerusalem. Concerning the Jews here, I long to write at length. But alas, I can only identify myself with their waiting, with their wailing, and with their steadfast faith for the Restoration of Jerusalem; though it may come as they do not expect; but better, larger, and grander. This much I must say, however, that in good behavior, they are hon- orable and friendly rivals of the Moslems. Christians are the worst behaved of all particularly the Invading, the Crusading Christians. 'Concerning the Jews elsewhere, I must say that man- kind is still capable of doing anything to draw down the malediction of Heaven upon themselves. And this is be- ing done by some of the Christian people and governments who in other things take lead in justice and measures of Peace. I am proud of my Anglo-Saxon race that, in its righteous treatment of the Jews, it takes the lead, as did France in their emancipation. GREEK RITE OF WASHING OF FEET MAUNDY THURSDAY, IN THE COURT OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. (The entire population of Jerusalem is represented save the Jews. Moslem women are seen, and also a battalion of Turkish soldiers to keep the Christians in order. .. .) Veiled OF THE UNIVERSITY OF JERUSALEM. 2/O \Ve make but one reproach to the Jews of Jerusalem: that of not "cleaning before their own doors," while within their houses, order and cleanliness reign. But their reply is always the same: "Street sweeping is done 'by the mu- nicipality, and we cannot interfere with it." It was diffi- cult for us to accept their reasoning; and we determined to do something ourselves. Therefore, from our first-day in Jerusalem, we began street-cleaning, and some of our friends became deeply interested in this reform in the Holy City. Mesdames Lewis and Gibson, those learned Anglo- Scotch ladies, tw r in-sister savant es in Biblical lore, on their way from Mount Sinai, (where they had added new dis- coveries in Scriptural manuscripts), and Mr. Gilder, Edi- tor of the Century Magazine, (one who has had famous experiences in cleaning the American Metropolis), were among the first who joined in my endeavors. During the latter part of our stay in the Sacred City, the street before our door at least, w^as cleaned and sometimes watered, for which we thank His Excellency, Selim Effendi, the very obliging Moslem Mayor of Jerusalem. Making a digression from our dirt-visiting tour through the city, I will state that the acme of kindness and courtesy we met in the Turkish Empire was this : After a visit from the Mayor who wished to know if he could be of service to us, I remarked in a somewhat jocose manner to Youssef Pasha, the former Mayor, who w r as present, that if I had thought of it in time, I might have asked His Excellency to have the shrill bugle of the Cita- del in David's Tower opposite, cease its call every quarter of an hour during the night! No more was said nor thought of on the subject; but as long as we remained irf'Jerusalem, we were never again awakened at night by a bugle blast! Imagine the Mayor of London, Paris, or New York, and the Commander of the military forces, taking into 28O THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. such consideration the sleep of an old-lady traveler ! Do unto other mothers as you would that their sons should do unto yours, is a religious tenet with Mussulmans. It is meet to say here, that we have never, in any country, met with greater courtesy and more thoughtful attention than from the Turks, nor greater charity than from the Moslems. I must add a propos of cleaning the Sacred City, that before we left Palestine w r e had the joy of hear- ing that a "company" was being formed to bring water to Jerusalem! This is certainly its greatest material need; and we thank God, if, at last, the crying, reeking reproach may be taken away from our Holy City: It is unclean! Now to a more agreeable subject. The second day, mounted on fine strong donkeys, we circumvented the city with Youssef Zia El Khalidy Pasha as our guide. Across that Hill of Zion, under the arch of the Armenian Patriarchal Palace, out through David's Gate skirting down the difficult descent into the valley of Jehoshaphat then around the majestic angle of the great wall of Solomon's Temple and up to the Beautiful Gate, near which, in the midst of the velvety green sward, the good Pasha led us to the tomb of his ancestors, among whom is Al-Kalad, the famous Arab warrior of the fam- ily of the Prophet. In this Moslem cemetery we made a long halt ; opposite Gethsemane, and the Mount of Olives and the Valley of Jehoshaphat, gazing and pondering upon the wonderful scenes which have been enacted there for 5,000 years, and especially upon the saddest and great- est of all human events, that which makes the History of the World, Past, Present, and Future. Here, by the Beautiful Gate, I should like to be buried. If the Holy Sepulchre is the most attractive place for Christians, Solomon's Temple is the most interesting- place in Jerusalem; and far more real and satisfactory. The gigantic ruins testify to the truth of history, sacred or THE UNIVERSITY OF JERUSALEM. 28l and profane, as well as to the grandeur of the Great Kings of Israel. There is no doubt here; nor has the worship of the true God altogether ceased from its midst since the day when Abraham built there, on Mount Moriah, its first altar for the immolation of his only son. What a marvellous presage of the Only Son of Him who is greater than Abraham of Him who was to come and to be immo- lated on these heights ! As we stand in the midst of this great, hallowed, and high platform of Israel, we are seized as never before with the grandeur of the Unity of the True Faith of man. Patriarchs, Prophets, Jewish High Priests, Christian Apostles, and Moslems, all unite in the Cosmic Truth of the One and Only God, who was, and is, and ever shall be proclaimed here ! And from the remotest period of their coming hither through all the turnings and overturnings of race and empire, during the Cap- tivity as well as in the Roman destruction, down to our day the prayers of Israel have never ceased to ascend from its temple in Jerusalem ! The vast platform or Place of the Temple still exists with its gigantic basement walls look- ing to the south and east over the Valley of Jehoshaphat. the Mount of Olives, the Cedron, and Saloam. Some of the massive stones of the wall built by Solomon still exist. In the midst of this great foundation plain, near where stood the magnificent Temple of cedar and gold of Solo- mon, and that of gold and gems of Herod, stands the Mosque of Omar covering with its vast blue dome the rock on which Abraham would offer his sacrifice. Amid all these sublime souvenirs of the Past, we spent the whole spring afternoon. Ready Moslem hands drew for us cool, delicious water from the immense cistern-w.ell in the centre of this great square, and as we meditated through the quiet hours beneath the old knarled olive tree which grows there, keeping humble company with the tall cypress trees, we shuddered at the retrospection of pillage and blood 282 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. which brought into ruin this sacred edifice of the Fathers of the Faithful! Blood of animals and blood of men! Heroes, giants, vassals, kings, saints and martyrs, stand down the line of the centuries, all covered with blood, in the midst of whom is the saddest, the cruelest scene of all: that of the Cross on which Jesus of Nazareth, the Helper and Healer of Humanity the Saviour of the world ! was nailed .... Among those who accompanied us to the Temple was a Christian Turkish soldier, sent by the Governor, who was received as a brother by all the Moslem officials. The venerable Sheik came forward to meet us and pointed out the interesting places and recounted the most important historical incidents many of which we knew were cor- rect, some of which we believed were mythical. Mos- lems, like Christians and the people of all other religions, have their legends and superstitions. One of our first visits was to the Armenian Patriarch of Jerusalem, a venerable and most affable personage who, to my great delight, spoke my native tongue perfectly, hav- ing lived many years in America (which cannot fail to be of advantage to Orientals and others...) The Armenian convent is immense, covering a large part of Zion's Hill. Its theological school and library are very important, and its treasures are said to be the richest in Jerusalem. Some of the sacred vestments are surpassing in rich gem-em- broidery: --pearls by thousands. We met some distin- guished minds among the monks of this great monastery, and certainly we have never met greater patriotic loyalty to one's country, (all are Turkish subjects), nor greater Christian resignation in the suffering for the people of their faith. We had the great privilege of partaking of the Paschal Communion in their ancient Cathedral of St. James. It was crowded with devout worshipers and many were pil- JERUSALEM. 283 grims from far lands. The ceremony was most interest- ing, entirely Oriental and unlike all others and very long, at least three hours but not too long, for we could have gladly remained there the whole long, happy day. Much chanting, processions, and incense. The walls were cov- ered with old paintings and rare embroidered drapery, banners, and pennants ; and swung up in the air, in sym- bol of the Resurrection, are many large white Ostrich eggs. The Communion, as in all Oriental Churches, is given with bread and wine the Armenians using un- leavened bread the Greeks, leavened. We also visited the Syrian Patriarch who, although very ill, insisted upon receiving us. He was in his bed which was, in Oriental manner, upon the floor his clergy about him. It was indeed a touching scene and a most interesting visit for us. The Syrians resemble in faith and rite the Armenians and Copts, among all of whom is most fraternal sympathy. The Abyssinians, the humblest of all the ancient Chris- tians, are under the protection of the Copts. They are a black but dignified race, piously devoted to their Emperor, Menelik, who is styled "The King of Kings" claiming to be a descendant of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba : and this tradition we are not inclined to reject. They have a pretty new church on the hill outside Jerusalem, and near it their convent for men. Unfortunately, the monas- tic parasite is strangling all the Oriental Churches as well as the Roman. The Abyssinian convent for women is on the roof of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, adjoining the Dome, in the garden of the Coptic Archiepiscopal pal- ace, in which large trees are growing all on the roof ! We made friends with these good people; but when the worthy and dignified abbot and his clergy returned our visit, our German Protestant landlord refused to let them enter his house, or to allow us to receive them in our owa 284 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. * . parlor, saying: in his English "They be no true priests, they am only three niggers!" Such is Christian charity under the shadow of Calvary's Cross .... As an hour passed beyond the time fixed for their com- Iig, we went upon the balcony, scanned the street, and lere they were, meekly waiting outside by the door! [y husband went down immediately and brought them in. o our ejaculation of indignation at the brutal manner which they had been sent away, the abbot only quietly :plied: "But we had faith, and we knew that God wanted > to see you; so we waited outside till you came."- Poor, ispised race ! still "waiting outside" ! But never mind m are bought free by the Great King and will, in His vn due time, have your rightful place "within" His king- mi. Bear up! Then we visited the Maronites, who are of the ancient Church in the Lebanon country. They are the only Ori- ental Church which is entirely united to Rome. From the other ancient Churches, Rome has succeeded in detaching comparatively small numbers. Like all Uniates, however, they retain their primitive rites and customs, in spite of Rome: the Vernacular, Communion with bread and wine, married clergy, etc. I asked one of their learned members what allegiance his Church held toward Rome. He re- plied: "The head of our Church is the Patriarch of Leb- anon; but when we lack a quorum in electing a new one, (which is rare), we send to Rome for the vote of the Pope; who, as a brother Patriarch and primus inter pares, has the right to the balancing vote. He has no spiritual or ecclesiastical jurisdiction over us." This people are distinguished for their intelligence, culture, and independent ideas. Not only in Syria, but throughout all the Orient, Maronites are very frequently employed by the different governments in positions of responsibility. As there is no division among themselves, DAVID s TOWER; OPPOSITE OUR HOUSE. JERUSALEM. 285 they are not given to religious hostility; but are peaceful, intelligent, and laborious. Though Turkish subjects, they have in Syria, a Christian governor. After the ancient churches, we visited the different modern Protestant sects, of whom the German Lutherans are, perhaps, the most numerous. The Anglican com- munity has a small Gothic church, with its resident Bishop. Formerly, Prussia and England sent alternate Bishops, the last of whom was that excellent German, Bishop Gobat, whose memory is cherished in affection here by Christians, Jews, and Moslems. He lived and acted the faith of the Supreme Bishop of all men without distinction or ex- ception. We had the satisfaction of occupying the house which he built on Zion's Hill, just opposite David's Tower. It is of Arabic architecture, high ceilings, large court, and galleries; his study being our sitting-room. It seems regrettable that the joint action of the English and German Churches was abandoned. The German Lu- therans are building a fine Gothic church near the Holy Sepulchre, on the site of the Hospital of the Knights Tem- plars.* There is also, near Jerusalem, a prosperous reli- gious agricultural settlement. Among the other smaller sects, or communities, we visited a most interesting and singular one which is lo- cated on the walls of Jerusalem just over the Damascus Gate; and is called -not a church (I am glad of that) but ''The American Family." They are about forty in num- ber, mostly Americans, with a few Scandinavians, and Germans ; and claim only Christ as their head and Bishop ; accepting all men as their brethren. They are given to expounding the Holy Scriptures ; but "not to doubtful dis- putations," and to rendering all the service they can to * This church was completed, and was dedicated by the German Emperor in 1900. The English have built, quite a distance outside the city, a fine new church, in Mediaeval Gothic style, with an Episcopal residence. 286 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. everybody; particularly to teaching English: and all gratis. Many of the best people in Jerusalem go there for lessons Moslems, Jews, and Christians. Youssef Pasha first took us there to visit this family and joined in the quiet reunion of prayer and sacred song.* * We visited this "household" again in 1901, which now occupies several villas outside the city, and numbers over 200 men, women, and children; and are prospering under a refined persecution by the other 'Christian sects, whose spirit would add lustre to that of the Holy Inquisition ! This group of Chris- tians may profess heresies, but they certainly practice charity without which all is naught. One error is a fundamental one : they are opposed to marriage ; not, if I am well informed, because of its inferior state ; but because of the inferiority of the contracting parties, who usually enter upon this high estate. One remarkable result of their presence is that they are the only Christian body in Jerusalem which has the confidence of the Turkish government, under whose auspices a young American lady of this "American Colony" has founded the first school for Moslem girls; and with very great success. We visited it and were highly pleased. The secret of their success is that, though they keep not only to the spirit, but to the very letter of he Bible and Christian Faith, they never attempt to interfere with the religious faith of Moslems. . CHAPTER XXXIV. BETHLEHEM AND HOW WE WERE STONED IN HEBRON. April 1 6, 1896. ON the way to Bethlehem, yesterday, we visited the tomb of Rachel ; and read again that most touching of all Jewish stories of love and devotion. And now we are in the second most interesting place in the Christian world. If there are reasons for doubting the spot where He was crucified, or where "they laid Him/' there are none for doubting where He was born. We entered the stable where the young Child-Christ lay with full faith. We were saddened but not regretful, as the situation is, to-day, with us Christians in Palestine, that there stood in the sombre, sacred Grotto, the Mussulman soldier, rifle in hand. Last year two Christians were murdered there by their Christian brothers of another sect. The less we say the better. Only this : I do most heartily thank the Turk for keeping us from killing each other, as best he can. . . .and withal so courteously I may say so affec- tionately. In their conduct they are very often Christians ; in our conduct we are often savages. From our arrival in Jerusalem, the Greek Orthodox Patriarch, Gerasimous, was our friend. He had invited us to go to the Greek convent in Bethlehem, adjoining the Grotto, where we were delightfully entertained by very intelligent Ionian monks. The convent is of immense 288 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. proportions, solidly built, well conducted, and given to hospitality as indeed are all the convents in the Orient; where, save in large towns, hotels are unknown. The Greek Church surpasses in this Christian virtue which is extended, not only to the great number of pilgrims of their own rite who come to Palestine, but to others. What interested me most after the Grotto of the Birth- place, was the rock-hewn chamber where Saint Jerome translated the Bible into Latin, aided by that learned Christian lady: Paula. # # * Now I must relate the saddest incident of our pilgrim- age. At the door of the convent of which we speak, we suffered one of the profoundest humiliations, mixed with disgust, which ever fell to our lot, and, to tell the whole truth, which we suffered with holy indignation. Void F incident'. Among other venders of trivial wares commonly called objets de piete, there were two young Christian girls, well dressed, (indeed they had a small fortune of bangles and medals upon their persons which showed that they were not among the poor, but of a certain po- sition), holding out for sale, and with over-insistance, some little white cakes in plaster. When we asked what they were, for we could not imagine it, they told us with calm and sweet impunity that they were "little cheeses made from the milk of the Holy Virgin !" For once I sent up a cry to the immaculate Mother of Jesus, asking for. her pity upon these miserable little Chris- tians whose ignorant parents encouraged such a disgrace- ful commerce upon this holy ground ! Here, at the source of all purity and truth here on the spot where the Holy Child was born of the Virgin Mother not only every Christian sentiment, but common decency is outraged by BETHLEHEM. STONED IN HEBRON. 289 this lust of gold and such repellant fetish as cannot be found among- pagans much less among Mussulmans ! Our indignation was not, however, appreciated by the venders who only smiled at our incredulity ; and when we appealed to the intelligent Abbot who was conducting us for we were on his own grounds he was profoundly mortified and said: "I can only say in my deep shame that these children are Christians, but not of our rite; and if we were to forbid them coming to our premises to sell these disgraceful wares, in less than ten minutes a band of women their mothers would be here with cries of 'persecution' ; and in less than ten minutes more all the husbands and fathers, and all their friends would come and add to the clamor, the police would be called in, the Government informed, and another story of 'reli- gious persecution' sent out to the world !" We could only exclaim: "May God deliver the Holy Land from all this unholiness!" I only regretted that I could not remain in Bethlehem a month, in deferential respect of the "Blessed among women/' and try what moral suasion could do to abolish this most abasing and abominable traffic which is practised in the very place where she carried and nursed her Sweet Child. HOW Can we look bona fid? pagans nr nnr Mndpm. Jrrnth^s in the face after that? >f^T//ty If the different pretending Christians of Jerusalem were indeed the followers of Jesus and possessed of any degree of respect and real veneration for His Holy Mother it would not require a month, or a day, for them to join together, forgetting their differences and animosities and put a stop to such abominations as these, which are a destruction to the very essence of Christian faith and a shameful disgrace to the whole Christian civilization! Moslem! Jews! pagans! savages! shut your eyes! while God goes on with His righteous punishment ! 2QO THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. How We Were Stoned. From Bethlehem we went to Hebron. We were alone my husband, myself and dragoman, having declined for this day the escort of the Governor, which he regretted afterwards, but we did not. Of all the tombs in Palestine where there is no place for doubt, it is the tomb of Abraham. Hebron is certainly one of the oldest cities in the world being built before Soan or Tanis, in Egypt. It \vas al- ready an ancient city when Joshua wrote of it old enough to have fallen into ruins and to have changed its name, for he says: (see Joshua xiv, 15) "And the name of Hebron before was Kirjatharba." The context shows one of the causes of its ruin: "and the land had rest from war/' The first mention of it in Sacred History is in Gen. xiii, 18. "And Abraham removed his tent and came and dwelt in the plain of Mamre, which is in Hebron, and built there an altar."- In all the romance of profane his- tory, nothing equals this holy and true romance of sacred lore the tender love, fidelity, and mourning of Abraham for Sarah, and of Jacob for Rachel. The spirit of the Gospel which consecrates the culminating and perfect love of the true Christian marriage -the love of one man and one woman for all time necessarily throws a shadow upon the love and life of the Patriarchs whose open po- lygamy was permitted but never approved of God no more than is our modern hypocritical polygamy. Though there is no law laid down in the New Testament for mon- ogamous, or Christian marriage, nor a word against po- lygamy, save in the case of a bishop, from the earliest days of the Gospel there was undoubtedly a new and holier appreciation of marriage which means, not only indis- solubility, but absolute fidelity, devotion, purity, and right- eousness of heart as was before unknown. And then. BETHLEHEM. STONED IN HEBRON. inevitably, polygamy began to disappear, and finally the ideal love is developed in man and woman. The absence of any literal prohibition of polygamy in the Bible was what misled Luther to his fatal consent to the Landgrave of Hesse having two wives. In the absence of the Letter, he forgot the Spirit which error his followers never ac- cepted; as the Germans never accorded that infallibility to their Reformer which the people of Geneva accorded to theirs: Calvin. Very certain it is that all through the history of the Patriarchs, the result of polygamy is sorrowful and de- structive to human happiness and to spiritual progress. Its fruit is inevitably bitterer as man rises in dignity and nobility of heart and conduct, until it is abandoned with abhorrence by every true man, and rejected by every in- telligent and virtuous woman. In the gradual training and development of God's people, preliminary methods, imperfect rites and customs, will fall away and perish, as do the first grosser leaves of a plant; and we are not to gainsay the Creator, but obey the Divine Governor of the world, who, in spite of all seeming to the contrary, is leading Humanity forward and upward to the ultimate object of creation. As it was with the descendants of the Patriarchs and free women, so it will be with their chil- dren and the descendants of Hagar "the bond-woman." Certainly, the days of polygamy are numbered in Islam. Hebron is about four hours' drive from Jerusalem. But distances never tire us in the Holy Land; and its pure, tonic air renews one's overspent strength rapidly and delightfully. At noon we found ourselves on the roof of a Jewish house (it was called a hotel, whose only dis- tinction was a beautifully painted sign in the Hebrew tongue which we managed to read) and soon enjoyed an excellent meal of eggs, bread, and cheese prepared by Joseph, our good Christian dragoman. 292 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. The hostile attitude of Mussulmans here was such that our dragoman thought best to be escorted by a Mos- lem policeman, who served us as a guide; and when he ascertained our kindly sentiments toward his faith and his people, he was eager to serve us. Through the narrow, tortuous, cobble-paved streets of the ancient city through the market place, beneath the arched ways, we climbed to the shrine of our pilgrimage, which is built in the face of the rock: the tombs of Abraham, Sarah, Jacob, and Leah. The best-beloved Rachel sleeps alone in a desert waste, by the wayside. Within the great mausoleum mosque of Mesjid-el- Khalil, which contains these tombs, no Christian nor Jew may enter, save by special permit of the Sultan. Among the few others who have received this privilege was our dear Dean Stanley (of beloved memory!) who was ac- companying the Prince of Wales (now King Edward VII) in the East. (How well we remember those long winter evenings at the Deanery of Westminster when he gave us such graphic pictures of it all!) The mosque is of great height and built of gigantic blocks of stone, some of them measuring twenty-five feet in length and is certainly one of the finest and most an- cient specimens of Hebraic architecture in existence. Here sleep the great prophets who are also our fathers, and fathers of the Jews and of the Moslems. I hope to see the day when we all have free entrance within the sacred shrine, as is our divine right; and I hope to be admitted myself. Our escort was augmented as we went, and when we knelt with our heads against the outer wall, as near the tombs as possible, the crowd fell back into respectful dis- tance, and our Moslem guide looked very sorrowful that we could not approach nearer. But what an immense consolation to kneel in the dust even at the outermost BETHLEHEM. STONED IN HEBRON. 2Q3 gate of the tombs of these grandest of all Israel's Prophets and Fathers! There is little else to see in Hebron save the ancient, large open cisterns which continue through ages to give this people what they feel is, after air, the greatest earthly blessing water. As we still had several hours at our disposal, and as my husband needed rest he remained in his quiet room on the roof, while I, with our dragoman and policeman, perambulated the old city going through the bazars and curious streets, which are always of interest to me, study- ing the people. I saw several green turbans among the others and knew they were sheiks of the Prophet's family, or Hadjs, having made the pilgrimage to Mecca. Upon asking concerning the Imams or other principal men of the town, I ascertained that the Grand Mufti was not only of great and wide learning but of renowned holiness. I asked to be conducted to his house. Such a step on the part of a woman, a Christian and a foreigner, was without precedence, and gave evident surprise, if not misgivings, to my escort; but the dragoman was well known and an intelligent Christian guide; and my policeman being a good Mussulman, said without hesitation: "I am ready to take you anywhere you command."- I, thereupon, -sent him forward with my card (my name was in Arabic as well as in French) to inform him who I was and the ob- ject of our travels. He returned at once, his face beam- ing with delight, saying: "Though the venerable Mara- bout has never received or spoken to a Christian lady in his life, he begs you to enter at once." We climbed up the steep stair-street, narrow, and not as clean as Paris or Cairo, but much cleaner than Jerusalem, and beneath an arched doorway, so low we had to stoop when entering. Remembering the magical surprises in these Oriental lands, I was prepared for something splendid in the resi- dence of this grandest personage of the ancient city. But 294 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. there was nothing of the sort. Only something better than splendor: extreme simplicity and exquisite cleanliness. A great square room with bare stone walls and well worn carpets and rugs low vaulted ceiling and narrow, for- tress-like windows, which admitted but little light. Com- ing out of the bright sunshine, it required an instant to discern the interior. Opposite the door, and between two windows, seated, or rather reclining, on a low divan, and thick rugs against the wall, enveloped in dark robes was the Grand Mufti. Of venerable age some say over a hundred (Orientals with whom the lapse of time is nought, seldom know their own ages) spare and frail in form; but what a beautiful head! Beneath the white turban, his fine broad forehead was fully exposed and a glance was sufficient to show him to be of the high-blooded Arab race. One look of his eyes revealed a rare intelli- gence, a grand soul, beautiful and saintly the ideal of St. Jerome. His pale complexion his hands, models of beauty, strong and delicate were those of a high-born, intelligent and saintly lady ; those of Saint Paula ; and what surprised and pleased me was that in one he held a beautiful rose. (I instinctively felt there was something more than color or perfume in that rose. We shall see. ) About him were eight or ten grave Imams or Sheiks, who arose as I entered ; he was, however, too old or to feeble to rise. Upon being presented to him in due deferential form by my dragoman, he held out his hand which is not usual with Moslems and bade me be seated beside him. I accepted the kindly invitation, for I was exhausted with fatigue and emotion though it required an effort as I was not yet "broken in" with the Oriental way of sitting on crossed feet; but I finally succeeded feeling that my efforts were appreciated without destroying the solemnity of the occasion. Other Imams and Sheiks, twenty or more, dropped quietly in for the news of this BETHLEHEM. STONED IN HEBRON. untoward visit had spread like electricity through the town; and the moral, civic, and religious forces were at once concentrated about their great chief; all of whom saluted first Ic maitre, and then me. What was most sur- prising to me was that no one else seemed the least sur- prised to find me there ! and though every eye was kept aloof --as Oriental respect commands very certainly every ear was bent upon me. Coffee was brought in at once and then cigarettes were offered. All accepted the former none the latter. My dragoman was an educated Syrian Greek Uniate, and quite equal to the occasion as interpreter. Then we began. I explained the reason of my coming; hoping that though it was most unusual, it was not too indiscreet. The reply of the venerable Mufti was like all his conversation in Scriptural style: "We are all allowed to go every-whither, and into any company, in search of truth ; and if you are sincerely seeking truth, God has brought you here/' Then after many inquiries and replies concerning health, husband, parents, children, and country, we entered upon our grand topic of Religion. Much was said on either side questions, replies and re- citals when, at length, and with delicate hesitation, he said he wished to ask a leading question; and before it came, I noticed that several Imams and Sheiks were speak- ing among themselves in evident agreement and aug- mented interest. This was the question: "Why is it that, if you take such interest in the people of Islam and in their religion, and believe that the Koran contains so much that is true, why do you not become Mussulman?" -That was indeed the question, direct and fair. Only my cold, hard English seemed brutal compared with his slow prophetic Oriental speech. I felt the importance of my answer, and lifted up my spirit asking wisdom to en- able me to speak the entire truth to edification, and in charity, that does not offend. I did not, therefore, reply 296 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. rashly or quickly, and this is what I said: "You, venerable Mufti, servant of the true God and learned in His Holy Laws, have asked of me a straightforward question; and the God whom we both adore, giving me His aid, I will answer in the same way." Hereupon the Grand Mufti raised his right hand to his forehead and all the sheiks and Imams followed his example. I continued: "As God, in His infinite wisdom and love, mysteriously ordains what is best for His .children, giving us all life and circum- stance of birth according to His holy will, and for His ultimate glory; and as He gave me birth in America, and in the religion of my fathers, which was, above all things, a religion of God, and not of man, I should be un- grateful to Him, and disloyal to His divine administration, if I should not accept with obedience and thankfulness His Holy Will. And you, no doubt, venerable Mufti, think the same concerning yourself and your religion ; for God has, in His infinite power and wisdom, though for reasons known only to Himself, peopled the different lands and latitudes of the earth with unlike races of vari- ous colors having diverse aptitudes and different beliefs. Though we cannot understand His reasons for so doing, we know that in His mysterious ways and munificent econ- omy, it is all for the best. Also we know that He is the Only True and Living God, and that, as we are created by Him, we are His children ; therefore, brethren throughout the world, and being brethren we should love one another as you, great and good Mufti, here give evidence of doing to-day in receiving me, an unknown woman of a distant land and of different race and religion with such kindly \velcome and hospitality, believing God has sent me. I thank you for your question and I beg you to re- ceive my reply as being dictated by my conscience, which is the voice of God in my soul, and which rules and governs my life. May the name of God be praised !" At the name BETHLEHEM. STONED IN HEBRON. 2Q7 of Allah, each one of the assembly raised his right hand to brow and heart. I had finished and there was a profound silence. Then the Grand Mufti raised his thin pale hand to his forehead with an ejaculation in which I heard " Allah" pro- nounced, and then held it out to me in a cordial grasp, while a murmur of approbation went round the -oom. Then he said to me in low yet sonorous accents (and I beg pardon of my reader for giving it as my interpreter gave it to me) : "You are a holy woman, and God dwells in your heart, and He has indeed brought you here! He has evidently directed your words may His name be praised ! You are called to do good and to teach people to shun evil. Your visit is a blessing upon us. You must go to Stamboul and see the Khalif, and I am sure he will be very glad to see you, and will give you a decoration; you must cer- tainly go to see him !" The Mufti spoke these words with emphasis. Then I rejoined: "I thank you, great and ven- erable Mufti, for accepting my reply; and I should cer- tainly be glad to see and converse with His Majesty the Sultan, for he is your Khalif the Commander of the Faithful but I do not wish any decoration. To do God's will is better than to hang tinsel and jewels about one's neck. I have a very great consolation, and one that I shall never forget: it is this visit to see you, kind and holy Mufti." Thereupon, he gave me his benediction, saying: "May Allah bless you and bring you back to us again!" I then took my departure, feeling that I had been in the presence and converse with a man of God, whose ancestors sleep with mine in the tomb of Abraham, in the great ad- jacent Mosque, of which he is the guardian. But the rose? I felt there was a sequel, and in walk- ing and talking with our police-soldier, learned that the Grand Mufti had a lovely young wife. Holiness, love* 298 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. and roses go together. Even in old age as with the Prophets. . . . * * * The carriage was waiting for us at the little Jewish Hotel; we must return to Jerusalem. In the exuberance of my contentment, I gave away all the backsheesh I had to the myriad of little urchins which flocked about us as we bade adieu to our kind policeman. He refused the recompense I offered in money, saying his services had been recompensed by being our guide for an hour or two which would remain all his life. Unfortunately, in spite .of his insistence to remain with us until we started, we sent him away feeling that with three hours of service, and his refusal of all remuneration, he should return to his post. He reluctantly withdrew. Then the crowd of children girls as well as boys in- creased, and their appeals became more pressing. But my purse being entirely emptied, I asked the Pere, who stood on the terrace enjoying the scene, for his, explaining that they were not begging not asking for money only for presents! "backsheesh," and that democratic prin- ces like us were expected to give largely to the sovereigns we visit, etc., etc. But 1 noticed that while my husband and I all enjoyed this, the dragoman did not; so, jumping on the box as soon as we were in the carriage, he cracked the whip and we drove off with a flash. Thereupon a shower of stones rattled after us two striking me and falling in the carriage. I kept them as souvenirs of these little Mos- lem rascals, and also as circumstantial evidence, which I laid with complaint the next day, before the Governor of Jerusalem but not before anybody else; for, with the already fast accumulating cries concerning Moslem fanat- ics against Christians, which was being raised by trouble- seeking travelers, and in the foreign press, we had no desire to make an international affair of the bad conduct BETHLEHEM. STONED IN HEBRON. 299 of half a dozen ill-bred Arab urchins who did not get a satisfactory "present" from us at Hebron! Human na- ture, especially in "street Arabs," is the same all the world over. I remember a shower of filth I had seen thrown into a fine lady's carriage in London one day, by a band of baptized ragamuffins, who demanded, but did not get, their backsheesh for turning somersets in the mud . . ^ The Governor was very sorry we had not permitted his escort to accompany us; but we were too happy with our day for any regrets. If I ever go to Hebron again, I shall not take an escort, and I shall not give backsheesh or "presents"; but some words of advice, not only to the ill-bred urchins, but to their parents, putting the Koran on their consciences. And I shall not be stoned again by the villainous little beggars, with whom religion is not in any wise the motive for their misconduct. As we drove slowly up in the still twilight, and entered Jerusalem by the Jaffa Gate, we felt like tired-out, happy children going home after a long and exciting day's ab- sence; and very grateful also to those miserable little sinners of Hebron that they had not had a higher aim : at my head instead of my breast : so there is almost always, even in disaster or ludicrous adventure, something for which to be grateful. That night, when through the solemn silence of the lorn city the muezzin's clear pleading went out for prayer, I remembered the little Moslem boys who stoned us at Hebron, and the little Christian girls who sold sacrilegious fetish at Bethlehem; and I believe I prayed most for the little girls. Then I rose from my bed and looked out into the deep, blue firmament bespangled with the consoling stars; and the brightest one hung in the south over the burying-place in the cave of Machpelah, which was before Mamre just beyond the lone tomb by the way going down from Jerusalem to Hebron. . . . CHAPTER XXXV, PERE HYACINTHE PREACHES IN JERUSALEM. A MONG the pilgrims constantly coming to Jerusalem, /~\ there was one group especially interesting to us, as it was composed of kith and kin; and it came about that Pere Hyacinthe addressed this company of English, Scotch, and Americans, in the large drawing-room of Howard's Hotel; just outside the Jaffa Gate. There were present, besides various Christians, some Moslems and Jews. After this the residents of Jerusalem, also Christians, Moslems, and Jews, were unceasing in urging him to speak to them. But public speaking was unheard of in the Holy City. How could it be done? I went myself to obtain permission of the Governor. He was evidently pleased with the project, and asked the subject of the proposed discourse. It was this : The Reconciliation of Religions. He accorded his permission at once, saying : "I have full confidence in Pere Hyacinthe, whose work is of Divine Inspiration." There being no newspapers printed in Jerusalem- save a tiny, weekly, ecclesiastical sheet in Hebrew, for the Jews; the only method, therefore, of publicity was by distributing circulars throughout the city. This was done by the consent of His Excellency ; and two thousand, printed in French, Arabic, and Hebrew, were sent out at once bearing the stamp of the "Turkish Government. As Pere Hyacinthe's spiritual platform is anti-secta- PERE HYACINTHE PREACHES IN JERUSALEM. 30! rian, his place of rendezvous must be neutral ; and this was our hotel: in the large drawing-room, adjacent corridors, court, terrace, and stair-case; where hundreds of the resi- dents of the city crowded in and listened eagerly to the New Gospel of Universal Love. All the Oriental, and most of the other Churches, the Mosque of Omar, and the Synagogue, sent delegates ; and the Turkish Army_ was represented by several high officers. The approbation of the audience was manifested by frequent and earnest ap- plause. At the close of the Conference, there was an in- formal and general reception, with never-to-be-forgotten expressions of appreciation and gratitude from all parties who were as surprised as grateful at such a reunion in Jerusalem ! One Patriarch, upon hearing of this unlooked-for event, wept for joy, exclaiming: "Is it possible that this has come to pass in my day? It is the first time that the people of Jerusalem have heard such accents since the day when Jesus preached them in these streets."- It was very certain that the satisfaction and gratitude was unanimous among the representatives of the three great monotheistic religions who alike claim this as their Holy City; and I think I may say that it was equally certain that Pere Hyacinthe felt that this was the crowning event of his ministry: To preach a free Gospel in Jerusalem! A propos of this event, and inspite of extreme reluc- tance, and only at the insistence of Moslem and Christian friends, I will relate the following curious fact giving it for what it is worth. Monsieur Paul de Regla, the dis- tinguished French Oriental traveler and writer, has told us and published (in 1895) the following concerning the prophetic mind of the Arabs. A few years ago in Arabia there died an aged Sheik who was held in great veneration because of his profound piety and a wonderful gift of prophecy. I quote from 3O2 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Monsieur de Regla: "Twenty-five years before his death, which occurred about twelve years ago, he wrote what he called 'The Government of God Among the Nations of the Earth/ And it is assured by reliable persons that most of his predictions have come to pass. This is what he wrote concerning France for the year 1896: In that year there will be a meeting of great fleets in the Mediterranean Sea, and France will be allied to great powers who are not Latin ; and in that same year, there will come to us in the Orient from France, a Priest, a holy man who represents no visible Church but God only; and he will preach to us drawing all hearts to Allah/' This prophecy was known in the Orient and was doubt- less thought to be one reason why Moslem hearts were so open to Pere Hyacinthe, who was there in the year 1896; and it was in the same year that the squadrons of the Great Powers sailed, in the interest of peace, through the Mediterranean to the Bosporus; and the Alliance of Russia and France was already accomplished. CHAPTER XXXVI. THE JORDAN. GREEK CONVENT. DEAD SEA. A FTER many days, when we had visited well the holy J~\ places of Jerusalem, we must needs go to the Jor- dan. Youssef Pasha accompanied us, and his knowledge of the past and present, as well as of many languages, made him the ne plus ultra of companions and guides. Our escort consisted of his body-guard, our Coptic dragoman, and a Jewish coachman. Out through the Jaffa Gate in the early spring morn- ing, with the air full of aromatic odors mixed with incense and sandal wood which linger in the sacred atmosphere; our hearts full of happiness, passing up through the new quarter and by the "Green Hill," (which more and more I am tempted to believe is Golgotha), then by the Gate of Damascus, near which, coming down from Galilee, is a large encampment of Bedouins with their camels and sheep and children; then, turning the angle of the city wall to the right, and leaving the plain of the Crusaders to the left. across the green embankment before the Beautiful Gate, down over the brook Cedron, beneath the sacred old gnarled trees of Gethsemane, on through the Jewish cemetery, skirting the valley of Jehoshaphat; then we halt on the side of the Mount of Olives and turn to behold the Holy City in the rising sun ! It was the most glorious vision that Christian eyes can ever behold in this life: Jerusalem the Golden! Its reflex glory shone on the face and in the heart and 304 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. faith of us all : Israelite, Christian, and Moslem. A deep religious exultation seized upon us, and exclamations of joy and praise went out from our lips! To see this one scene for an instant, was worth the whole long pilgrimage ! / was satisfied! A short hour further on, to Bethany where, within the Greek church, the Archimandrate showed us the sacred place where Jesus came to visit his loving friends : Mary, Martha, and Lazarus. In leaving, he made us each a little souvenir-bouquet from the garden where certainly their feet had trod. Then on and up among the hills of Judea, through that waste of gray, treeless hills of shale and sand and rock; through waterless ravines and deso- late mountains tinged only in parts with a petite mauve immortelle flower, as if sheen gauze had fallen down from heaven to cover in love their nudity; while other places were starred with innumerable daisies, which, seen or unseen of the passer-by, alone in the sorrowful desert, had nothing to do, and from whom nothing was expected, but to look lovely and upward into the blue sky every day of their lives worshiping God. We call them "Margue- rites" in French, which name I prefer, as it is that of my beloved soul-daughter whose love and prayers are follow- ing us wherever we go. The sun beats hot, and how can we escape it where there is no possible shade? All travelers in such heat should use umbrellas and never forget to carry bottles of water well enveloped in woolen stuff to keep it cool, with which to moisten the white kerchiefs on their heads. You pity your poor coachman who sits in the broiling sun all day but he laughs when you offer him your parasol, and says: "Oh I thank you very much, but I don't mind the sun." And you will also pity the poor beasts who drag you through it all; and if you are humane you will for- get your own discomfort; and if you are not, try to be SYRIAN DRAGOMAN OR GUIDE. THE JORDAN. GREEK CONVENT. DEAD SEA. 305 angelic ; count the daisies and listen to the chirping of the merry insects that fill the air with their worship, for they, too, like the sun ; and if the heat is still unbearable count the thornbushes by the wayside. Ah, the thorns ! all along the way from Jerusalem to the Jordan! they will, per- haps, help you to forget yourself .... Up, slowly up the long ascent, and at high noon-we see the \valls of the welcome Khan the half-way stopping place with rest for the horses and shade for us all. The long three hours' halt gave ample time for siesta and conversation; and better than volumes was the Pasha's knowledge imparted to us of the past and present of Pal- estine, Turkey, and Judea. Again on the downward way, he recalled to us, if not in words, still more vividly in action, that sublime teaching of our Lord in the parable of the good Samaritan going from Jerusalem down to Jericho perhaps on this very spot. . . .certainly by this same way. As we rode through the hot afternoon I wrote on the fly-leaf of my guide book this parody, which is a true story : "Once upon a time there went down from Jerusalem to Jericho a great Pasha who was of the tribe of Abraham and Hagar, a subject of Abdel-Hamid-Khan, and of the family of Mohammed the Prophet, a devout believer, who worshiped God and loved his fellow-man, even Chris- tians and Jews, and had pity, respect even, for inferior brethren dumb beasts. And as he drove down the rocky road, with friends from far lands, suddenly the horses shied for before them, almost across the road, lay one of their kind dead. Then the company all alighted from their landau, and the Pasha with friendly admonitions to the horses in their own tongue for they, too, were of the Arab race, and accustomed to the masterly drpjo- macy of walking around difficulties^Now appeared a group of travelers whose horses, also, shied and whose riders 306 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. cursed (they, the riders, were Christians) who, after fur- ther fruitless attempts, were forced to dismount and also circumvent the obstructions as best they could." Then we drove on slowly; (here I drop the parabolic style) only I noticed that the Pasha kept an anxious eye before us down the road, and anon we descried far down the winding way, a wandering family of Bedouins coming up. Then the Pasha spoke a few low words in Arabic to the coachman and the body-guard. The carriage stopped and both these men got down. Why we stopped, I could not imagine, but something told us it was not a time to ask questions. When the Bedouins came up, they w r ere three men, two women, and several small children, a donkey and three black sheep, the Pasha's guard advanced down the road and opened parley with them. Then he returned to us with an affirmative look; (it is amazing how much these Arabs say in a few words!) and immediately our coach- man began to haul out from beneath the box sundry straps and ropes. The Pasha took the reins and our coachman and the guard joined the Bedouin family all of whom saluted the Pasha with very low salaams and walked back up the road carrying the ropes; but they did not walk very fast. All kept pace with the little black lambs and the little dusky tots of children. There was no use being in a hurry time is not money in this dear, sacred land and it was still very hot. Of course our curiosity (I mean the curiosity of the foreign couple) was very keen; and we turned our eyes backward up the road. Soon the group arrived at the dead horse, and in about two minutes, with quiet dexterity, and without any loud words, or cursing, or ordering about; but with unity of action, in which all joined: men, women, and children and even a little black lamb tried to help by flirting his little feet up against the back seat of the THE JORDAN. GREEK CONVENT. DEAD SEA. 307 Hebrew driver just as he was bending over to put on the slipping noose. . . .and. . . .b'r r r! the dead horse was hauled down the declivity and the highway was clear ! And we went quietly on our way to the Jordan. I will give here the sequel to this object lesson. Three days after, when the afore-mentioned party re- turned from Jericho to Jerusalem, as they approached- the spot of the incident just narrated, all eyes were turned with eager remembrance toward the scene; but, while yet afar off, the quick sight of our Israelite coachman pointed to the sky. There, far above the piled up hills of Judea, high in the deep blue sky of Canaan, swung heavy, great- winged beasts ; and when we finally approached the place, we found ajbattlefield of disgusting carnage. Scores of huge vultures were swooping down and wallowing about disputing the prey! There was no semblance of the dead animal we had left there three days before, only a cage of bare ribs from which these great ungainly, lum- bering birds gulped with ravenous beak the reeking offal, and hobbled, scarcely able to fly so ponderous were their huge over-glutted maws, beating the air with their un- couth, sagging wings pulling, tearing, and screeching; fighting for the long-drawn entrails of the noble Arab steed which had fallen in the hot dusty highway doing faithful service for some cruel master! Now we go on with our journey, and are approaching Jericho still descending among the arid hills. We stopped several times to repair the road for those who came after us; for this is the manner here in which the highway is kept in order: each passer-by repairs it for his follower. (Another Moslem object lesson.) What the Turkish Government fails to do, Moslem charity undertakes. With eyes strained toward the East, we catch occa- sional glimpses of the summit of the Moabite mountains beyond the Jordan ; and now, as we turn around a jutting 308 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. rock lo! at our feet lies the plain of Jericho the richest in the world ! that treasure-garden which Pompey thought meet for a marriage gift to Cleopatra! But above all, it is rich in Divine and human events, and in Biblical History! We got down from our carriage and climbed a lone, overlooking crag to gaze upon this amazing scene of deso- lation! Was that clump of Arab huts and Bedouin tents all that remained of the capital of that Promised Land? whose riches had incited, and whose glory had inspired the long wandering of Moses, and his nation, in the ter- rible wilderness? Was this indeed all that remained of the great school of the Prophets ? An hour's descent on foot for the road is like a stair- case; but where is the Jericho of to-day? There is no town visible, only a cluster of a few huts and tents and a score of small, modern houses. We stopped before the little inn to rest our horses; then an hour's drive across the sandy plain to the Greek convent of St. John the Bap- tist, on the bank of the Jordan. When about midway, the Pasha signed to the coachman to halt, and bending our ears we caught the musical notes of a far-off chime of sweet bells, trembling through the air. "They see us," he said, "and that is their \velcome, those good monks keeping the Jordan." We were guests of the Greek Patriarch of Jerusalem and carried his imposing letter, duly signed and sealed; but the Abbot was already apprised of our visit. The burning sun was sinking pouring molten gold on the sand as it went. The Pasha now gave a sign to urge the horses on, saying to us, "We must see the setting sun from the battlements." Nearer and nearer, clearer and clearer they sounded, these sweet, loving bells, welcoming us into the lone for- tress of faith on the silent bank of the Holy River ! THE JORDAN. GREEK CONVENT. DEAD SEA. 309 It is a fortified convent, and the only building in all the country round, solidly built of stone; the single, iron door in the thick wall just large enough to permit a horse or camel to enter, and can easily be barred within. It Has stood siege from marauders more than once; but for many years all is safe and peaceful in Palestine. The Abbot and the French-speaking friar- eould scarcely express their joyful welcome to us in any tongue known to us but the good Pasha helped them in their rapturous dilemma and then they led us, first for a short thanksgiving prayer in the chapel in the great square on the battlement roof; then up on the broad high terrace on the top of the large square tower. Fitter than all others, for true pilgrims, is the vast Cathedral whose blue, bending dome of infinite space is the heavens ! There is worship, free and full. To the north a low vaporous horizon melting into the far blue firmament; to the south the Dead Sea; to the east, and near us, the mountains of Moab, turned into moun- tains of glowing bronze, with their face toward the setting sun ; and to the west, all rimmed in burnished gold the hills of Judea. From their distant summit a white needle pierces the air. It is the campanile on the Mount of Olives, above Jerusalem: the w r atch tower of Israel looming up over its wasted domain! Great angels of the Past were keeping anxious watch over the four corners of that Holy Horizon ! As long as life lasts, and beyond who knows? we shall remember that resplendent sunset, and the glorious night on the banks of the Jordan. The shades deepen and now the bells begin to chime again and across the shimmering plain come great cara- vans of pilgrims. All meet a kindly welcome, and all are provided with food and beds over three hundred mostly 3IO THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. Russians. Within its vast enclosure the convent can re- ceive five hundred at a time. Slower softer chime the bells. And now the mel- ancholy gray of the coming night falls upon the desolate plain of the Promised Land. Looking down into the great court where a bright fire was now lighted, we could witness but turned away with poignant regret the killing of a kid for our supper. The monks, however, eat no meat, nor do the pilgrims; but we \vere considered as peculiar guests, requiring "fat- ted" creatures: cannibals that we are! devouring the ca- davres of our inferior brethren ! Had we known the in- tention of the hospitable monks,, we should have forbidden it; but the Abbot smilingly drew the Patriarch's letter from his pocket holding it up before us saying: "I have orders from my Superior." We insisted, however, and were assured, that the kid should not be "cooked in its mother's milk." It was roasted upon the huge open fire in the immense kitchen whose glow contrasted, to our shameful condemnation, with the holy radiance of the stars set in the far firmament! Looking down from the terrace on which were our rooms, or cells, we were much interested in the prepara- tions made for the pilgrims. We saw tea being made for the Russians, and what a tea-kettle! It was too large to be indoors and was set up in the court on a furnace. It held a hogshead. It was Lent, and tea with spare bread composes almost the entire diet of the Russian pilgrim now. The kid Avas delicious no doubt, but we did not taste of it we could not. . . .The supper w r as over-abundant, and there were all sorts of conventual,? but not conven- tional things to eat, and thorough, good, religious cheer. We did not, however, linger long at the board but hurried to the tower again and gave ourselves to the outer and THE JORDAN. GREEK CONVENT. DEAD SEA. 3! I superior world. And now over the landscape came a soft afterglow of the magnificent day ! The blue lines of the horizon were fading; the golden glare of the Moab mountains had melted into beautiful opaline tints; the Dead Sea was a sharp, white line of silver the plain of Jericho enfolded in a royal, purple mantle; the stars those sacred stars which had twinkled down upon the fair land which Moses could only see from afar, were sending down their messages still. Here we thank our Divine Father for bringing us to this wonder- ful, mysterious land of Promise! Though the earth be dead Christ liveth! A gcnouxl Far against the paling western sky was the white, faintly discerned line from Olivet, over Jerusalem, like* the Finger of God pointing to Heaven, as the final hope of this sad, wicked world in the coming night. ... The next morning we went to the Dead Sea. It was an hour's drive. We bathed therein. I was certainly disappointed concerning its buoyancy for I had almost expected to walk on it .... But though I could not sink, I could undoubtedly have been drowned very easily, had I not taken great care. Its water is clear and sparkling, but very salty and bitter to the taste, and its effect was certainly strange, I might say, miraculous. I did not remain in it over three minutes, but it gave me such a glow of warmth with visible determination of blood to the surface, and, with breathing its air for three days, I was cured of the bronchitis from which I was suffering. I am sure it could be utilized for chest and throat mala- dies with success thus extending the miracle. [If I failed to discover Sodom and Gomorrha at the bottom of the Dead Sea, I did not fail to discover their prototypes in the Living Sea outside of Palestine. . . .] The afternoon we devoted to the Jordan wandering along its banks, and bathing face and hands in its sacred 312 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. stream. I was seized with an intense desire to be rebap- tized to be buried in its holy waters with Him who had set the great example! Though I believe that Baptism by immersion is the preferable way had I had the shade of a doubt touching aspersion, I should certainly have dis- pelled it by repeating the rite that day in the Jordan. Another glorious sunset, and nightfall, from the con- vent battlements, another night in our high narrow cells, another ardent sunrise; and we came away with reluc- tant almost sorrowful hearts. The good Abbot and his kind French-speaking friar could not do enough for our comfort and happiness. The Abbot spoke Greek, Russian, and Arabic, none of which I spoke. When he gave his last Benediction in the lan- guage of the New Testament, my husband could reply; but all I could say was "Alpha and Omega!" and the dear man was as deeply- moved as was I. ... Ah ! How gladly would we have lingered there, in that holy place of sacred memories, where there was nothing of the world, and naught of doubt. The bells' sweet chime followed us with love and prom- ise in their melting voices far across the plain of Jericho in that radiant Oriental morning and its harmony and warmth will remain in my heart forever. All the homeward way - "homeward way" indeed - going back to Jerusalem, there was a melancholy chime following us all the day until the eventide came on as we climbed the Mount of Olives from Bethany, and again beheld Jerusalem in its awful grandeur of the solemn shades of the coming night .... From out those tombs through which we moved, there seemed to rise long-re- cumbent forms and pleading hands of the people of Israel stretched forth. CHAPTER XXXVII. THE EASTER VIGIL IN JERUSALEM. TO-MORROW is the Great Paschal Feast. We must keep the vigil. And that we may be alone, we go at twilight upon the broad terrace of the house-top where we sit in sorrow and in spiritual sack-cloth and ashes, with the Old Jerusalem in ruins at our feet, the New Jerusalem spanning the Universe in all its effulgent glory over our heads ! After our meditation of contrition we must render thanks to our Heavenly Father who has brought us throughjfe perils of the deep, fire, and pest so far away from our belle France aye! from the still more distant home-lantl half a world away! which 1 may never see again .... Across mountain, plain, and desert-wastes of the Dark Continent; beneath the deep firmament and the near-hanging stars of the Mystic Nile; hither and thither in the Blue Intermediate Sea ; then, with tired yet glad feet, to the Sacred Soil, up through the Holy Hills of Palestine ; and at last to the summit of our life's pilgrimage even unto Jerusalem! It had been the low, longing, monotone refrain of all my life Jerusalem! Jerusalem .... And now we have walked her streets ; we have circum- scribed her threefold walls; we have kept sorrowful step with Jesus all along the Via Dolor osa; we have meditated the Ancient Scriptures beneath the cypress trees which 314 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. grow in the midst of Solomon's Temple; we have prayed in the Great Mosque of Omar, our faces against the rock where Abraham went up to sacrifice his Isaac; we have bathed our brows in the Pool of Bethsaida asking God to heal as was done of old; we have wept with the Jews in their Place of Wailing; we have mounted the Calvary alone, carrying our cross; we have knelt and asked ar- dently for a sign in the Holy Sepulchre weeping because He was not there .... and to-morrow is the Feast of the Paschal Lamb! Keeping the Vigil looking out from Zion's Hill upon the Holy Ideal and the unholy Real city at our feet, across its serried centuries, and with its sacred dramas within our souls, out beyond the Calvary, over Mount Moriah and the Temple Walls, across the Valley of Je- hoshaphat, Gethsemane, and the Mount of the Ascension, and beyond, over the hills of Judea, to where the Jordan flows. Long we look out on the sad, beautiful earth, and up into the deep glorious Heaven drinking in tears of melancholy happiness. Long we stand, sit, or kneel; thinking and praying through the slow waning hours of the still night ; recalling the weal and woe of the ancient days of Israel: Babylon, mistress of the world, Rome, conqueror ; and all those dreadful, sacrilegious w r ars which watered the city with the blood of those who fought in the name of God against those who fought in the name of the Prince of Peace! Mad, blinded creatures of hate! Ah! God of Mercy! God of Mercy! Have pity! Have pity! Sadly, sweetly, they wear away the dead hours of the solemn night! The awful silence broken ever and anon by the voice of the muezzin from the adjacent minaret of David's Tower its mysterious tremolo wailing out over the city, full of pilgrims, who are keeping the Vigil, over the darkling shadows and the dark walls of Jeru- THE EASTER VIGIL IN JERUSALEM. 315 salenv out into the far desert, and on in tender suppli- cations throughout the world: "O God, Just and Merci- ful! hear the prayer of Thy children who have need of Thee!" Slowly the constellations are coming up from the East into a deeper night; and now we turn our eyes up to the Northern horizon up beyond where Mizpah stands against the sky up beyond Nazareth, beyond Syria, and over the beautiful Bosporus, on beyond beyond to the Black the gore-black Black Sea, from whose shores a lurid light flashes into the heavens, lessening the light of the stars. And now what strange, red clouds float in the air, like huge reflections of clotted blood, across the sky! Long we gaze and ponder over the strange phenomenon, until our eyes seem petrified in their sockets and all our being is paralyzed with horror, while the north breeze bears a sickening odor; O God! in pity, stop massacre between those who believe in Thee! Slowly wears the Vigil. Now bursts through the silent air the bugle's blast from the Moslem sentinel on the draw-bridge of the Cita- .del hard by, calling us back to Jerusalem to the thou- sands of pilgrims within her walls who are, also, watching and praying through the sad night. They have come hither from near and far ; from lands undreamed-of when He was here; and all are filled, as are we, with the sorrowfullest sentiments that can stir the Christian soul; for nowhere else,, nowhere on the face of this beautiful, sin-cursed earth, have Heaven and Hell dwelt so closely, and in permanence, as here where the Saviour of Men the Prince of Peace, lived and was slain that those who believe in Him might dwell together in love! God have mercy upon us! And there they are, still crowded into their ghetto, though they outnumber the other inhabitants of Jerusalem the descendants of those who crucified Him, 316 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. "not knowing" what they did" while we crucify Him daily, knowing w r ell what w r e do! Can w^e, with all our knowledge of Truth, have hope of forgiveness while we still refuse it thus to them, in spite of the last, loving com- mand of the Perfect One of their race? We too often forget that it was not the Jewish "people" His people w r ho crucified their Holy One, but a few fanatics of the synagogue in league with Roman militar- ism and domination. Israel was thenceforth divided; the scission was accomplished in this unjust condemnation. And what was equally disastrous for the world, dissension and discord began between His followers at the very foot of the Cross aye, before He was delivered to be slain; and it has continued ever since nearly 2000 years ! There was a flaw at the -first in Christianity: His disciples zvould not follow His example! And still they come up hither Christians of all tongues and races and climes; representatives of all Christian nations and governments flocking here to live in perpetual wrangling and quarrel over an empty tomb ! forgetting the Risen Lord! Missionaries from every section of His Church come declaring that their broken, branch is the true trunk of the Living Vine which He has planted; and with dispute and hatred claim pre- emption of the hard Dead Letter, not only of that broken stone which covers the spot where they laid Him but of a gilded lamp, a shred of tapestry, a bit of carpet; even unto the shedding of brother's blood outraging driving out the Holy Spirit with hellish hatred, cudgels, swords, and guns ! This we Christians do while the Jews do not quarrel over the dead \vall of their fallen temple nor the Moslems over the rock of Mount Moriah; they weep and pray. The lust of gold and of domination, with fanaticism, maintain perpetual dissension within these sacred gates; THE EASTER VIGIL IN JERUSALEM. 317 and discord reigns throughout the Christian Church, be- cause of her great apostasy! Who can doubt that it is by Divine Direction that all the Holy Places Bethlehem, Nazareth, Jerusalem and all the others are under the guardianship of more faithful believers: the followers of Mohammed. Within the Holy Sepulchre stands the Mos- lem soldier, who reveres the Christ more than many_ who bear His Holy Name. They come we have seen them with our own eyes those Turkish soldiers, several thou- sand strong, each with his loaded gun and bayonet fixed; and not only to keep us in order and respectful demeanor within the Holy Place, but, as has often been the case, to prevent our killing- each other ! Sliainc and woe! Woe and shame unto Jerusalem! It was but yester-night, as I lingered late within the sacred precincts until the closing of the doors; I saw a sight and a sweeter and, perhaps, sadder one no Chris- tian could ever see ! I saw the Great Key of the Holy Se- pulchre carried away by a child a little Moslem maiden, six years old, who hugged it firmly yet tenderly to her proud little heart with her right hand, while her left clung to that of her venerable Arab grandsire, whose right hand had been injured and who is the hereditary "doorkeeper in the House of the Lord." And to-night I bless that fair, bereaved American maiden, called "Marie," who has sent by me the gift of a golden necklace to this little Moslem maiden. Women's hearts must touch each other round the world, for their loving faith will be the healing of the nations. All honor to the Moslem who keeps the Holy Tomb of Jesus ! All shame to Christians who desecrate it! We have lost the key and thrown away our heritage ! 3l8 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. We are still on the house-top, and the vigil continues. As I withdrew my mind from its pondering, and my eyes from the dark spangled night, I turned my gaze downward into those reeking streets of Jerusalem into the Holy of Holies, filled with the vast, praying multitude, w r ho were keeping the vigil prostrate on the earth and down into my own soul asking the direct and final question : "But what came we here for to see ? What look we for in this holy hell? What seek we in this Empty Tomb?" And the answer came hack, up and out of its depths low, but full, sure, and strong: ""Whether ye know it or know it not, O ! sad, sorrowing world ! Ye are seeking the unity of Humanity in the Unity and in the love of God! Be not forever downcast. He overcame the world, and at last at last ye will follow 7 Him!" Ah, yes! thank God, there is something in Jerusalem better than this dark side and bitter cup; something brighter, something higher, for here is the throne of Eter- nal Hope ! and though heart-sick, soul-sick, we lift our eyes upward in relief from this long gaze and these melancholy meditations, up where the great overbending world of cerulean blue lifts up and holds within its ramparts of stars, the other, the New Jerusalem ! up where there is no error nor hatred nor sin nor sickness ; up where dwell all who are beautiful and holy ; and in their midst the Prince of Peace, drawing all men to Him in the glorious Victory of Love ! And now, through the silence, comes a sweet, low chime of bells from far, far away. Can it be from those hills? from the convent there on the banks of the Jordan? There is hope and joy in their tones .... And now clangs out the great bell from the ruined tower of The Tomb ! 'Tis midnight! 'Tis morn! HE is RISEN! HALLELUJAH ! CHAPTER XXXVIII. JUXTAPOSITION AND CONCLUSION. "Islam is a promise; Christianity a menace." Bonaparte. THE religion of Islam is simple and kind: Our reli- gion not that of Christ is complex and hard. Moslems have two articles- of Faith God and the Judgment. Their creed is short and unvarying: "God is the only God, and Mohammed is His Prophet/' Our creeds are various ^nd variable our articles of Faith in- numerable. We are sectarian, intolerant of all other forms of re- ligion than our own; Islam is universal and tolerant of all other religions which acknowledge God. We are divided into about 500 sects, while Islam is a unit. There are no infidels in Islam, while all of our sects are ravaged by doubt, scepticism, and infidelity. Christianity makes and imposes new doctrines ; Islam imposes simply that which God himself imposes: Faith in Him. Mussulmans have few needs, and live by faith and very little bread, with a lapsing tendency to primitive cus- toms. Our faith is not over-strong, but our appetites are immense, with overweening desires for all the "comforts" of "modern improvements" and progressive luxuries. Christianity has early fallen into Apostasy; hence our 3^O THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. doubts, dissensions, dominations, and heresies; Islam has kept its faith unswervingly in its primitive and simple integrity. Islam is a vast Brotherhood, composed of minor cir- cles; Our "individualism" leads us to selfishness and sec- tarianism. Islam cannot be governed by Princes of the World, but accepts the absolute government of God. We are apt to ignore the government of God and evade that of man. The three great governments founded of God in the world have been Republics, which means Brotherhoods: Israel, Christianity, and Islam; and they must eventually become one Divine Humanity. When Church and State are irreconcilable; Christians who hold them as separate factors in Government let go the Church, and society is divided into hostile factions. (Rome holds to Caesar more than to Christ.) Moslems, who hold that religion, being the government of God, embraces all others according to the Law r of Moses, and the following of Mohammed; let go the State, and still remain a universal Republic or Brotherhood. Christian worship, with its preponderating voteries and imposing pomp, includes numerous saints and often to the exclusion of Christ and even to the obliteration of God, while Islams admit rare saints and no idols keeping to the primordial commandment which Jehovah imposed: "Thou shalt have no other God but Me." 'The symbol of Islam is the Crescent Moon with all its interpretations of poetry and God's love. The Christian symbol of the Cross is the constant suggestion of Roman hatred and murder. Christians have a Sacramental Rite of washing the body, or sprinkling the head, once in their lives for the cleansing of the soul: Moslems believe that a clean soul JUXTAPOSITION AND CONCLUSION. 32! should have a clean body, and are enjoined to take a bath every day of their lives. Our morals may be higher in theory, but they are cer- tainly lower in practice. Islam has legal polygamy, which is rapidly disappear- ing. We have everywhere illicit polygamy, and in some of our foremost Christian nations we have legal polyandry patented prostitution and both are on the increase. If polygamy is a black spot on Islam and' it certainly is prostitution is a blacker one on Christianity! Polygamy, which was a tolerated imperfection of our Patriarchs, rapidly disappeared among the Jews when the light of Christianity environed Israel; and it is now dis- appearing in Islam as the principles of Christian marriage are penetrating the world. Polygamy in Islam has its natural ally: easy divorce. Christian divorce is hard, more cruel, and in a form far more destructive to the family. Mohammed had twelve wives; Jesus had none. To follow the example of Mohammed, concerning mar- riage would be disastrous to all human society. To follow the example of Jesus, concerning marriage, would be the destruction of the human race. There are no illegitimate children in Islam, while the illegitimate births in some of the foremost cities of Chris- tendom frequently attain to over a third of the whole number. Moslems are accused of buying their wives; while we pay men for taking our daughters off our hands. The fact is that the money given by Moslems to the parents of the bride by the bridegroom is her dowry and is to remain intact for use in case she becomes a widow or is divorced ; while the money given to the bridegroom by Christian parents of the bride is usually at the entire 322 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. discretion of the husband and we know too well the sad results. With Moslems, love usually begins with marriage; with Christians, it too frequently ends there. Islam has one moral for men and women; and purity is enjoined equally upon all. So-called Physical Science has not un frequently claimed the contrary among Chris- tians. Islam has no outcast, homeless, or unprovided-for women ; and therefore, no class of working- women, forced to earn their daily bread; while the merciless treatment of weak and helpless women is one of our cruelest sins.* In a fair land of Europe, \vhere there is one of the most intelligent and Christian monarchs, I have seen women- some young and some bent with age yoked with oxen plowing the fields, and harnessed with donkeys and dogs pulling ofTal carts through their magnificent university towns where other women are highly educated ! Islam has no "poor class" ; and frequently, as in Egypt and Tunis, Mussulmans can only bequeath their property to the second generation the principal remaining intact for the Charity Fund whose income often exceeds the expenditure. The giver is not vainglorious nor the re- cipient humiliated by this equitable distinction of God's munificence among brethren. The neglect of our poor is the blackest blot on our Christianity! Mussulmans are sober and healthy, as they eat simple food and drink no wine or fermented beverages save when taught to do so by Christians- while we are neither sober nor healthy, as we drink all manner of poisonous beverages, and eat to our destruction. * In Germany there are five million five hundred thousand women em- ployed in factories ; in England, four millions ; in France, three million seven hundred thousand; in Italy three million five hundred thousand; and the same number in Austro-Hungary. JUXTAPOSITION AND CONCLUSION. 323 In self-control and fidelity in religious practice, Mos- lems give a salutary example, especially in fasting; while our "fast days" are seldom remembered and our Lenten season is everywhere attenuated, and often entirely aban- doned. All adult Moslems, and even little children, are eager to observe the great fast of Ramadan. This they do religiously and joyfully. I do not hesitate to say that a people who can thus control appetite neither eating a mouthful of food, nor drinking a drop of water, through the long laborious day, nor smoking a whiff of tobacco from dawn to dusk during thirty days, are our superiors in moral and physical cour- age as well as religious faith. But in summing up all this, I do not hesitate to say that I firmly believe that the Christian Ideal of life is the highest ever revealed to man. Without the most distant idea of proselyting in any way, I do not only believe that the contact of the three Monotheistic religions, and their races, can but be profit- able to each, if each one follow^ its respective principles- keeping commandments of God which are common to us all: Jews, Christians, and Moslems; but I believe it is the only possible means of peace, progress and happiness among mankind. As all purely human interests must fail to bind Hu- manity together in happiness, we must seek it elsewhere. And, as the bond of Brotherhood has its center in Father- hood, so the only ultimate and absolute bond of union among the children of this earth is in that which binds us to the Creator the Eternal Father. That bond is Religion (religare which signifies to bind anew or back to be united from the source). I believe that Islam cannot fail, because of its great faith in God. But to be a powerful and beneficent factor of humanity, it must awaken from its somnolence and in- 324 THROUGH THE LANDS OF ISLAM. difference and take its rightful place in the march of science and civilization outdoing its glorious past. I believe in the future of Christianity, if it returns to its Divine Founder to its origin when the Faith needed no man's creeds, and Christians needed no General Coun- cils ; but were willing to live and ready to die for the grand- est principle ever emitted from Jehovah: Love. I believe in the Re-awakening of the great and noble Arab race, with its grand intellectual and moral qualities, which gave to the world for centuries its highest civili- zation. And I believe in the Restoration of the Jews, who are the Fathers of these other two religions, but not as a na- tion. Israel is the mysterious Gulf-Stream running through the vast ocean of Humanity, carrying with its warm per- sistent current, the Great Determinate Faith of One, Per- sonal and Living God without which there can be nothing good, permanent, true, or beautiful among men; for it is that faith which recognizes the perpetual miracle of God in man, and which covers, by its beneficent creative influ- ence, with flowers, fruit, and beautiful children, the utmost parts of the earth! That the Restoration of Israel may be possible, the Jews of to-day must rise from the sepulchre where they persist in hugging to their hungry hearts the heavy, rust-eaten chains of Letter and Ritual ; burrowing amid dry bones and dead hopes. And this Restoration will be assured only when they have restored Jesus of Nazareth to His people : Him who was announced of God by the Prophets, and who, after the vain waiting of forty centuries, and in spite of His enemies and His pretended followers, has proven His Messiahship by the uplifting of humanity into a recognized Brotherhood; and has brought to the sin- ning, sorrowful hearts of men the ineffable assurance of Eternal Life! And this Restoration will become an ac- JUXTAPOSITION AND CONCLUSION. 325 complished fact when the Great Jew is revealed to His own, and to the world in His real and rightful character - untrammeled by calumny, legend, superstition, and false interpretation: The True Christ! The Restoration of the Jews will be the Transforma- tion of Christianity, and after, the Incorporation of Is- lam and the True Gospel preached to all dwellers on the earth. As there is but One God, there cannot ultimately be but One Religion. When these awakenings, reforms, and resurrections are accomplished, and this will certainly come to pass then there will be no more killing of men no more reli- gious or political despotic governments, no more hatred nor contentions no more down-trodden peoples, and no more poor nor sick; for the Commandments of God will be the accepted rule of all nations, and all individuals ; and Peace and Love will reign with the universal Brother- hood; and then will begin the Kingdom of Heaven on earth! IT IS WRIT! Ethics and Religion 205. HOMILIES OF SCIENCE, by Paul Cams. 1892. Pp. xi., 317. Cloth, gilt top, $1.50. (7s. 6d.). 206. THE IDEA OF GOD, by Paul Carus. Fourth edition. Revised and enlarged. 1896. Pp. 32. Paper cover, 15c. (9d.). 211. THE RELIGION OF SCIENCE, by Paul Carus. Second edition. Eevised and en- larged. 1896. Pp. vi., 145. Cloth 50c net. (2s. 6d.). 212. KARMA, A STORY OF BUDDHIST ETHICS, by Paul Carus. Illustrated by Kwason Suzuki. 1903. American edition. Pp. 47. 15c. 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