UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES 'OUT LEAPED ROGUE. THE YOUNG MOOSE HUNTERS. A BACKWOODS-BOY'S STORY. I1Y C. A. STEPHENS, AUTHOR OF "KNOCKABOUT CLUB IN THE WOODS," "KNOCKABOUT CLUB ALONG SHORE," " CAMPING-OUT STORIES," ETC. FULLY ILLUSTRATED. ' BOSTON: ESTES AND LAURIAT, 299-305 WASHINGTON STREET. 1882. Copyright, 18S2, BY C. A. STEVENS. rzv r CONTENTS CHAP. i. THREE TEN CENT "SCRIPT," &c 7 " 2. OFF FOR THE LAKES, &c 14 " 3. OUR NIGHT IN THE "NOTCH," &c 24 " 4. STARTING UP THE UMBAGOG, &c. . . . 32 " 5. AN EARLY BREAKFAST, &c 41 " 6. A CROOKED RIVER, &c. ...*.. 48 " 7. A DESOLATE DWELLING, &c 60 " 8. FARR LABORS AT KEEL-HAULING, &c. ... 68 " 9. No DINNER. THE FIR FOREST, &c. ... 79 " 10. IN JOLLY SPIRITS, &c. 87 " n. "ON TO PARMACHENEE," &c. 99 " 12. A TOUGH DAY'S WORK, &c 109 " 13. WE FINISH SACKING SUPPLIES, &c 116 " 14. TRAPPING IN EARNEST, &c 127 " 15. WH HIDE OUR FUR, &c 138 " 16. FARR SMELLS SMOKE, &c 149 " 17. WATCHING FOR DEER, &c 155 " 18. WE TAKE UP OUR BEAVER TRAPS, &c. . . .163 " 19. A NIGHT LONG TO BE REMEMBERED, &c. . . 168 " 20. A GLOOMY PROSPECT, &c 178 " 21. A POOR CAMP FIRE, &c .185 4 CONTENTS. PACK CHAP. 22. A TRIP TO BOSE-BUCK COVE, &c 188 " 23. THE LITTLE RIFLE GONE, &c 199 " 24. OUR NIGHT WATCHES, &c. 206 " 25. MOOSE STEAKS, &c 220 " 26. A Muss. THOSE TEA GROUNDS, &c. . . . 229 " 27. AN INDIAN SUMMER, &c 236 " 28. FRED LAID UP, &c 250 " 29. THE HUNGRY MAN AGAIN, &c 264 " 30. A HEAVY SNOW-STORM, &c 273 " 31. FEARS FOR THE FISH-BOX, &c. . . . .281 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PACK OUT LEAPED ROGUE Frontispiece "THE YOUNG MOOSE HUNTERS" , n SCREW-AUGUR FALLS 19 THE SLEEPING SENTINEL 24 LAKE UMBAGOG 32 " Now FOR IT ! OVER WITH YOU ! " 35 IT MADE A TREMENDOUS REPORT 46 IT WAS THE CHIMNEY 64 THE CARRY 74 "Hi! Hi! Hi!" 90 WE WALKED STEADILY UP IOI CARRYING THE BATTEAU no PARMACHENEE LAKE 119 THE MARTIN IN THE TRAP 136 HAULING THE MOOSE DOWN THE BROOK 148 FARR'S "CHANCE SHOT" 158 " LOOK OUT ! HE MAY MAKE A DIVE AT us ! " . . . 165 "AFYARSTAR!" . 169 SCOTT'S BIRCH-BARK JACKET 181 6 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE " HALT, THERE !" 195 FRED AIMED AT THE BACK OF THE MOOSE'S HEAD . 216 IN TIME TO SEE FARR DIVE IN AT THE " SHEEP-HOLE " 226 " UNDER THE TREE HERE " 232 " FELLOWS, I 'VE BEEN MORE THAN Two HUNDRED MILES!" 243 PUNCHED OUT 252 " MOON TYKES" 268 A SPOTTED TROUT 274 , IT CAME OUT QUIVERING AND STRUGGLING .... 277 EN ROUTE FOR HOME 283 MOOSE-HUNTERS. CHAPTER I. Three Ten-cent Scrips. The Lexicon. Latin and Poverty. Seb"- made Men. "Something Must be Done!" Sixty Lines ti Virgil. The Logging Swamp. Fred BartietL Parmacheaee Lake. A Trapping Scheme. Moose, Deer, and Trout. Prep- aration. The Little Rifle. MY chum took out three greasy, tattered ten-cent "scrips." "My whole pile!" said he, smoothing them out on the bare table-leaf. "All I've got in the world, and this I owe you, old fellow." And the writer of this narrative, dejectedly watching him from the other side of the table, was not in a condition to deny the debt. " No matter about it this morning, Scott," I said, with a sense of magnanimity. " I've got twenty-five cents left, yet. Besides, the Lexicon is mine, you know." "Yes," said Scott, brightening a little; "that's good for two dollars, any day." Then we mused. 8 THREE TEN-CENT SCRIPS. A glance at us there, in our forlorn little room, would have told the reader what we were ; a couple of impover- ished youngsters students for the time being at the village academy working every way to wrest an educa- tion from Poverty's grim hands. Ah ! those impecunious, starveling school-days of ours ! Thanks to Providence, and the steady revolution of the earth, they are gone, forever, I hope. For one, I have no desire to get them back. America, meaning the United States, is a great country for self-made men, so called. Our people rather dote on that sort of man. It is a nice topic to fire the juvenile mind with, this being a self-made man. When the average poor boy comes to try for it, he is apt to find it a stern task. To fight his way against every thing, even hunger itself, is doubtless an indication of pluck, yet is it any thing save a pleasant pastime for the luckless youth who gives the indication. That little upstairs room, with its one window, bare floor and rusty stove ; its two crippled chairs and starved little cupboard, that rarely could show more than half a dry loaf of wheat bread and a pint jug of molasses ; its unpainted, uncovered table, on which lay half a dozen second-hand text-books of Virgil, Caesar, Xenophon, all intimately associated with a certain void within the waistband : well, it is not quite an enjoyable recollection, though a very vivid one. Those were times that tired LATIN AND POVERTY. 9 not only our souls, but our stomachs as well. And with youngsters of fifteen or thereabouts the stomach pleads strongly. To offset all these mortifications of the flesh, we had before us the grand design of fitting for college, beyond which lay the great glowing future, shining with profes- sional honors, and the bright aureole of fame. How many young Americans does ambition thus spur to a long and sometimes fruitless struggle for higher and better things ! Every college in the land is strongly rep- resented by those who could have well understood our case that morning; though I honestly hope there are few who were ever quite so badly off. Presently the academy bell rang, and we hurried off to recite our sixty lines of Virgil. But the grave and pressing questions of finance that had obtruded themselves so imperatively upon our atten- tion, soon recurred ; they were not to be put off. Rather they had been put off till the last moment already. " Something must be done," said Scott. " Right off, too. Here we are only fifty-five cents and that Lexi- con." The Latin Lexicon (Andrews and Stoddards') I had bought at the opening of the term ; five precious hard- earned dollars had gone for it: five of the twenty-seven in my pocket on the last day of August, earned at sweaty toil 1 haying ' by the day. " I suppose I can get a school to teach, up in Newry, 10 THE LOGGING SWAMP. this winter," Scott observed, at length. " I have partly had the promise of it. But the pay is only seventeen dol- lars a month, and it is but for seven weeks. That would not be worth waiting for." For my own part, I had not even this resource in view. The most of School Committees would have deemed us too young for pedagogues; and so we were. Nor was it of any use to go home a few miles out of the village. Our folks were not able to assist us. In- deed, if any assisting were done, it must come from us to them. " We shall have to shoulder our axes and go into the logging-swamp," I exclaimed, at last. " No other way. Twenty-five dollars a month and board. It's hard and it's low ; but there's nothing else for us." "And live in an old lousy shanty all winter long, with a crew of profane, drunken, tobacco-chewing fellows ! " groaned Scott. " Such company degrades one. We should come out next spring rough as files, ourselves. I don't like it ! " No more did I ; yet we must do something. Scott ad- mitted that there was no other way in which we could earn so much ; but he shrank from the companionship of loggers. Before the war, when his father was alive, Scott's family had been in better circumstances. I call him Scott from long habit; his name was Henry Scott Whitman. All that day we were in perplexity, and studied but idly The question of the morning pre-occupied us. THE YOUNG MOOSE HUNTERS. PARMACHENEE LAKE. II "Let's go over and talk with Fred," Scott proposed that evening. Fred Bartlett was a classmate and kindred spirit, in like circumstances : that is to say, he had nothing save what his own hands got for him. Fred was seventeen. His home was in Andover, Me. (one of the northern towns of Oxford County). This was his second term at our acad- emy. He had worked at river-driving, in the logging- swamps, and during the previous summer had been a guide to parties from the city camping-out about the Umbagog Lakes. A downright good fellow was Fred, wiry and tough as a rat, and full of a rough worldly wis- dom, born of hard knocks. We knew him to be nearly out of funds, and on the verge of some expedient for raising more. So we went over to talk with Fred. "What are you going into this fall?" Scott asked, after some preliminary conversation. "Well," said Fred, "I have about concluded to start up the Magalloway for Parmachenee Lake." "What doing?" we asked. " Trapping ; and I shall hunt some." " Ever up there ? " Scott inquired. " No ; but I've heard all about it. Good place. I calcu- late I'm sure of a hundred dollars there." "You do ! " we exclaimed. " I do," said Fred, confidently. "And then," he added, after a pause, "if I don't find 12 MOOSE, DEER, AND TROUT. mink and otter, why, I'll dig a big pack of spruce gum : that sells well, now." " Going alone ? " I asked. " Well, I've nobody engaged for certain." " But what will you live on up there ? " Scott demanded. "What will you do for grub to eat? " "Oh, I'll find enough to eat. I shall take along some flour and meat. Then there are plenty of deer and moose and trout up there. I'll live like a king, I tell you." Then we talked of other matters. At last, as we were going out, Scott said, " I suppose you wouldn't care to take us along with you, Fred ? " Fred reflected a moment ; then he said that he should like to have us go well enough, if we would like to go. Yet we presumed he did not care much for our company ; in fact, Scott had asked him more in jest than in earnest. The next morning, however, Fred asked us if we thought of going, and gave us a more cordial invitation. Then we began to consider the matter more seriously, and, indeed, talked of little else between ourselves for the next two days. It seemed a wild project, yet in want of any thing else to do we were much disposed to try it ; and at length we told Fred definitely that we should go. On that, he set the day for us to meet him at Upton, at the foot of Lake Umbagog, and at once started for home to get ready. Being now fairly in for the expedition, we began to make our own arrangements. PREPARATION. 13 We settled the rent of our bare room for the week forty cents. We sold the Lexicon for two dollars and a half; also a Common. School Arithmetic (Greenleafs) , a Smythe's Alge- bra and a Cooper's Virgil for three dollars more. (It was no uncommon thing with us in those days to dispose of our books at ruinous discounts toward the end of a term.) I swapped my best (tweed) coat at the store for two old army blankets. Scott made a similar exchange for two rubber blankets. It got out that we were going moose hunting ! Everybody poohed at us; and our friends croaked dismally, but in vain. We bought ammunition, sparingly. Scott had an old double-barrelled gun that had been his father's ; and a young sporting man in the village whose name I will not need- lessly drag into this Iliad of our fortunes loaned us, by his own offer, a little breach-loading rifle, the skeleton stock of which could be taken off when desired. It was of the pattern popularly known as "The Hunter's Pet." And with it he let us take two boxes of metallic cartridges. This was a windfall, indeed. Another friend in need gave Scott a pair of rubber boots. Vainly I wished for a similar friend. By Saturday night of that week we had completed our slender outfit. We were to meet Fred at Upton Monday night or Tuesday morning of the following week. CHAPTER II. Off for the Lakes. A Ten-mile Walk. A Short Ride by RaiL Bethel. $2.50 to Upton. "Frogging it" The Androscoggin. Heavy Packs. Bear River Tavern. Wild Scenery. Screw Auger Falls. " The Jail." Grafcon Notch. Our Night Camp. WE started at six o'clock Monday morning, October 3rd, and walked ten miles to " Locke's," a station on the Grand Trunk Railroad. Our packs were heavy : but we were fresh then, and full of vim, to quote from our late Latin exercises. Bethel was the next point to make, dis- tant five miles ; and as it is on the railroad, we concluded to indulge ourselves in the luxury of a twenty-five-cent ride, by way of saving up our strength. The Canada express train whistled in, ten minutes after, and was signalled to stop for our benefit, Locke's not being one of its advertised stations. We took passage for Bethel with our packs and guns, where we arrived fifteen minutes later. From the depot we caught sight of the high wooded mountains of the northern lake region, looming up grandly across the Androscoggin valley. Adown their long slopes rested the soft autumn haze ; and the rich tints of the foliage gave to the whole country a warm, dreamy look, OFF FOR THE LAKES. . 15 which I recall with a sense of enjoyment, though our minds were intent on more practical matters. Our next point was Upton, on Lake Umbagog, distant twenty-six miles, where we were to meet Fred with his boat. From Bethel to Upton there is a stage twice a week. This much we had learned and had come on the right day for it. We had thought the fare would not be more than fifty cents apiece, and were prepared to give that. Judge, then, of our dismay when we were told that the charge was two dollars and ffty cents per head ! This announcement struck us speechless. We drew back into the depot to take counsel of each other. Meanwhile the stage drove off. "Well, let it go!" exclaimed Scott, gazing evilly after the departing vehicle. "We never could have afforded it. Two dollars and a half ! Only think of it ! " "But what shall we do?" said I, with a despairing glance at our heavy packs. " Do ! why, we've got old Shank's mare left us ! " ex- claimed my stout-hearted comrade. "If a fellow hasn't money, he must frog it, that's all." But to frog it twenty-six miles and carry a pack of thirty- five pounds and a gun, is a severe experience for most boys of sixteen. There was now no help for it, however. We summoned up our resolution, but first sat down on the wooden settle in the depot and ate a substantial lunch of the crackers and cheese we had taken along with us from home that morning; thereby lightening our packs a little and stowing the weight where it could be more comfortably carried. 1 6 A TEN-MILE WALK. This done we slung the packs across our backs, and taking our guns in our hands, set off. It was rather warm. By the time we had crossed the long covered bridge over the Androscoggin, we were in a lively per- spiration, and drew up to take a " rest " in the shade of the farther end of it. There had been a heavy rain a few days previously. The river was high and had only the day before flooded the road at both ends of the bridge, which is elevated high above the stream to with- stand the tremendous spring freshets. The Androscoggin is the outlet of all those northern lakes toward which we had now set our faces. At this place it is near two hun- dred yards in width, with a swift, black, arrowy current surging against the strong granite piers. In seasons of drouth, however, the Androscoggin can sometimes be forded. It is a pieasant road beyond the bridge. Many well- to-do farmers live along the intervals. Their residences evince good taste and considerable wealth. The hills and slopes, on the west and north of these farms, abound wkh sugar maples. And all these were now in their autumn glories of red and gold. The folks were getting in their corn, load after load of dry shocks ; and as we trudged on, we caught many a glimpse of cosy husking- parties merry boys and rosy girls through the open barn doors. Steeling our hearts against these alluring pictures, we huiried forward, crossed the bridge over Sunday River, a THE ANDROSCOGGIN. 17 tributary of the Androscoggin, and a little later the Bear River bridge, and entered the town of Newry a region chiefly noted for its snow squalls, which are said to begin early in September. The scenery had grown wilder. The mountains seem nearer, higher and more rugged. The road leads up the narrow valley of Bear River. But I must not omit a little incident which associated Bear River bridge with that day's tramp. Just across the stream, and at the very entrance to the covered bridge, there is a little weather-beaten tavern that has evidently seen all of its best days and the most of its worst ones. Every thing about it bespoke neglect, decay and shiftless- ness. Our packs oppressed us ; and we sat down on the steps of the tavern to take breath. Presently the land- lord came out. He was a rather fat jug-shaped man of sixty, or rising; he smelled of liquor and was evidently well-soaked with it. Yet in the corner of his light gray eye there dwelt a gleam of good-humor, a lingering gleam, that even the blight of alcohol could not quite kill out. He addressed us cheerily, and it took not many explana- tions on our part to make him fully understand our case and the hardships before us. And he did not discourage us as everybody else had done. He chuckled and told us to "keep a stiff upper lip." " Oh, you'll sup sorrow and rue the day you started, a good many times, I'll warrant ye," he chirped. "But if you stick and hang you'll bring back a clever pack o* furs, like 's not." 1 8 BEAR RIVER TAVERN. Then he limped back into the tavern and soon came out with a pewter pitcher. "Take a swig o' this," said he. "It'll wash the dust out o' yer throats. Oh, it's nothing but cider ! " he ex- claimed, seeing us draw back a little. " Nothing but elderberry cider. I don't keep any thing stronger. Law won't let me. 'Twon't hurt ye." We first tasted it, then took a few swallows. It was a very pleasant drink: sweet elderberry juice sweetened and lightly fermented ; not so thick and strong as elderberry wine, nor yet so smart as apple cider. I suppose the old fellow thought it was the best thing he could offer us ; and I am not sure whether it injured our morale as Good Templars or not. We thanked him and shouldered our packs. " Call when you come back along if you come this way, and let me know how you've made it," was his parting salutation to us. " Well, all old drunkards are not monsters ; and I sup- pose that most everybody has some good in them, some- where," Scott remarked as we walked on. Consider it as I will, I never can feel any thing but a kindly sympathy for the old soaker who keeps the Bear River tavern : so powerful is a kind word when a boy is tired and half discouraged. We went on up the valley. Off to the west towered the " Sunday River Whitecap ; " to the east rose the " Great Ledge," a bare, rough peak, cone-shaped and of great SCREW AUGUR FALLS. WILD SCENERY. 19 height. The river is here a mere torrent, broken by fre- quent falls, and rushing along a bed full of boulders and ledges. The road in many places was half washed away by the recent flood ; and high up amid the alder branches were lodged grass and leaves, showing to what a height the stream had risen. Often after heavy rains the stage cannot get up for the water ; there is no stream in New England more subject to great and marvellously rapid rise. Still wilder and narrower grew the valley. The dark green twin peaks of Mt. Saddleback were directly ahead of us ; while the loftier side of Speckled Mountain shut us in on the west. A single narrow gorge opened before us. "This must be 'Grafton Notch,'" said Scott; and so it proved. There are few localities in New England that for wild scenery can compare with this famous " Notch," through which Bear River foams and roars to its own confused and hollow echoes. About a mile farther up the gorge we came to a very singular cataract, or rather canon, called " Screw Auger Falls." It was but a few yards from the road ; and we laid down our packs to examine it. An extensive granite ledge fills the whole bottom of the gorge ; and through this the stream has worn a mighty auger-shaped channel, which is of itself a curiosity well worth a visit. This miniature canon is about a hundred feet in length, and so narrow that at some points one can leap across it ; 20 SCREW-AUGER FALLS. while its depth toward the lower end cannot be less than sixty or seventy feet : a chasm grooved out by the rush- ing waters, and smooth as if polished with sand-paper. Its vast spirals probably suggested the name of Screw- Auger. Its sides disclose some remarkable veins of white quartz, with which there seems to be intermingled other minerals, which we had not the time to examine ; but which we con- fidentially recommend to mineralogists as well worth their notice. As an example of the wearing power of running \\fater. these falls are indeed remarkable. " There's a good ten thousand years' work ! " exclaimed Scott, peeping cautiously down the chasm. " The water didn't wear this hole in one century, nor five ! " It was now four o'clock, and the sun had already gone behind the great mountain on the other side of the stream. There is a little shed on the side of the road opposite the falls, where teams have been hitched up to rest. " We might put up here for the night," Scott suggested. But we concluded to go on. A little way beyond the falls another curiosity drew our attention. On the very verge of the road, though half hidden by the shrubbery, there is a semi-circular abyss known locally as " The Jail," from the fact that there is but one way into it, which, if secured, might make it possi- ble to use it as a place of confinement. The sides are smooth and of great height. It would be quite impossible to "THE JAIL." 21 climb out. Formerly the river ran through it for many ages, till it wore this great cavity. But an earthquake, or perhaps its own wearing waters, have now given it a new channel some rods to the westward. After a peep at the Jail, we went on again for a mile or more, till coming to where some belated wanderers, like our- selves, perhaps, had made a little bark shed near the road, we decided to camp for the night. The shed had not been used of late ; but the old shake-down of hemlock boughs lay just as its former occupants had left it. It felt dry, and to our tired bodies, looked inviting. Near by stood the flayed hemlocks, from whose trunks the bark had been stripped to furnish the roof of the shed. While I unpacked the blankets, and counted out five crackers apiece for our supper, Scott gathered sticks and pulled bark from a neighboring white birch. Three smutty stones and several old brands marked the place wheYe our predecessors had built their fire. We followed their example, and soon had a crackling blaze. Ah ! what so cheery, when twilight and the wilderness are about one, as the red gleam and cheerful snapping of a camp fire ! Blessings on the man who struck the first spark of fire, be he Prometheus or ugly old Vulcan 1 In the light of our fire, which gleamed brighter as dusk fell, we ate our crackers and cheese, then gathered, ere darkness closed in, several armfuls of wood, to last through the night. The stars came out. The night was clear, with the sugges- tion of a frost. A very small new moon showed itself for a few minutes on the wooded crest of the mountain, then went 22 GRAFTON NOTCH. behind it, leaving it not perceptibly darker. We sat beneath the shed and watched the sparks darting up, and the slower wreath of black smoke rising toward the stars, momentarily clouding their silver sparkle. Just then the cry of some animal was heard from the mountain side above us. It was not loud nor startling, but a lonely cry of discontent or hunger. Such sounds impress one strangely in the forest at night. We listened to hear it again, and soon it resounded anew ; rather more distinctly this time, or else it was because we were hearkening with intent ears. "Do you know what that is?" Scott asked. I could not even guess. It is often very difficult to iden- tify animal cries heard in the woods at night time. The forest echoes change the character of the note. This sounded somewhat like a man shouting rather disconso- lately at a distance. We continued to hear it, at intervals of ten or fifteen minutes. But it did not alarm us much. We gradually grew sleepy. " Had we best both go to sleep ? " queried Scott. It did not seem just right to do so. "Tell you what we will do," said Scott, at length. "You roll up and go to sleep. I'll take the little rifle, and sit leaned back against the side of the shed. I won't go to sleep ; but I can sit and doze till one or two o'clock. Then I will wake you, and you can take your turn at it. It will rest a fellow almost as much to sit so as it would to lie down." OUR NIGHT CAMP. 33 I had nothing to urge against this arrangement, and was, in truth, very glad to get the first nap. We had walked, carrying our packs, not less than twenty-four miles that day. So utterly weary had I become, that I wrapped my two blankets about me, and despite the novelty of the situation, was soundly asleep in less than fifteen minutes. CHAPTER III. Our Night in the "Notch." A Drowsy Sentinel. Rather Chilly. On Again. " Moose Caves." Still Wilder Scenery. In Sight of the Umbagog. We meet Fred. His Catamount Story. Farrour New Partner. "Spot" Godwin of the Lake House. Our Outfit A Siren of the Lakes. " Canada Plums." ~T IT T H ATEVER went on about our camps, and what V V savage eyes may have stared at us lying there as the stars moved westward and set behind the mountain wall, is no part of my story. When I woke it was broad daylight. Indeed, the sun-rays had begun to glint the tree- tops. So profoundly had I been aslaep that it was several seconds before I knew "who I was or where I came from." Scott was half sitting half reclining against one of the stakes that supported the shed,, his head rolled on one shoulder and his mouth open, sound asleep. The little rifle had slid from his grasp, and lay with the dew- drops clinging to the muzzle. The fire had long gone out. It did not even smoke. Outside, the ground and the grass in the road were frosty. I got upon my feet, feeling pretty stiff and not a little chilly. Then I gave my recu- sant comrade a poke, several of them. He started with a great groan of discomfort. It was with difficulty that THE SLEEPING SENTINEL. A DROWSY SENTINEL. 25 he got his neck out of the unnatural position it had held for so many hours. " You're a nice fellow to keep guard," I exclaimed. Scott winked painfully. " I suppose I must have got to sleep ," said he, staring at his legs and at the dewy rifle. It looked like it. " But why didn't you wake me ? " said he. "Why didn't I wake you!" I indignantly repeated. " That's a pretty question for a sentinel to ask ! " " Well, as long as we're all right this morning, there's no great harm done," was my comrade's philosophic reflection. I was not for letting him off so easily, but contented myself by remarking that this sort of thing must not hap pen again. We did not think it worth while to rekindle the fire : it had got so late how late we were uncertain, for Scott had forgotten to wind his watch the night before; it had run down. We had eight crackers left, and the rinds of the cheese. Hastily devouring these refreshments, we took a hearty draught from a little rill which ran across a ledge a few rods away, then rolled up our packs and went on. In a few minutes we were in the narrowest part of the Notch; and though we were not at all poetically disposed this morning, yet the grandeur of the scenery compelled us to pause frequently to gaze up at the overhanging cliffs and crags. Bear River, now dwindled to a noisy brook, brawls and murmurs hoarsely along the ravine. The road 26 "MOOSE CAVES." crosses the stream as many as six times; the bridges are of logs, covered with hemlock boughs and earth. At one point the road is made along the side of the gorge, which sinks to a great depth below. The only railing beside the wagon track is a log. " Shouldn't care to drive a skittish horse here," was Scott's practical observation, as we looked into the abyss beneath. To which I recollect replying that I only wished we had a horse to drive : for the packs were growing fear- fully heavy again. Near this place there is another wonderful exhibition of the wear of the water through a ledge. It is known as " Moose Caves," from the circumstance of a wounded moose once taking refuge in the cavern which the stream has worn. Those with whom I have spoken concerning it, say that it is more wonderful than Screw-Auger Falls even. It is at some little distance from the road ; we did not go out to it. A mile farther on the road emerges, from the Notch, disclosing a less mountainous country to the northward, heavily wooded with evergreens chiefly. The ground here begins to descend toward the Umbagog. Near by are the headwaters of a stream which, oddly enough, some settler has named Cambridge River. There are clearings along the road. On one of the barn doors we saw a fresh bear skin stretched and nailed to dry. Scott wanted to shoot at it, but was deterred by the suggestion that there mighf be somebody husking in the barn. WE MEET FRED. 2"J We were now in the town of Grafton. We followed the " Cambridge " down as we had followed Bear River up, and about one o'clock came in sight of the blue Umbagog, stretching away to the north-west Before us a long hill led down to the white " Lake House," which we espied on the very shore. The sight of it gave us new life. We re-shouldered our packs and hurried down the hill. A hundred rods from the tavern we saw two young fellows and a dog coming to meet us. " That's Fred, one of them ! " Scott exclaimed. There was no doubt of it, for a moment later that worthy young backwoodsman gave us his ordinary salutation. " Money ! " he shouted, presenting an imaginary revolver. " Hands up ! Drop that rifle ! " "You're badly sold this time!" replied Scott. "If money's what you 're after, you've stopped the wrong party." That was but a grim joke too true to be pleasant. "We will have some money, though, if there is any fur round these lakes ! " cried Fred. " But why in the world didn't you come last night? Looked for you till eight o'clock in the evening. Thought that catamount down in the Notch had got you, sure ! " "That what? "said I. " Why, that catamount down there ! Haven't you heard about him ? " Certainly we had not ! Scott looked rather uneasily at me. Then I told them how we had camped there in the Notch and both slept like logs. 28 FARR OUR NEW COMPANION. " Well, well ! " exclaimed Fred, and laughed heartily. " It's a wonder he had not gobbled you up ! Folks don't dare go through there nights, lately." " Is that true ? " exclaimed Scott. " Honest true. But no matter, as long as he didn't get ye. This long-legged chap here (with a nod toward the stranger youth) is going into partnership with us. His name is Farr, Charles Henry Farr ; and this quadruped is his dog. Come here, Spot ! He isn't worth any thing for small game, but he is good for chewing up panthers, lions, bears, and bug-bears." Farr was a rather tall, frank-faced fellow of seventeen or thereabouts. We liked him at sight ; and if the reader does not, it will be our fault, not his. As for Spot, he was an average sized dog, black and white. He appeared remarkably inoffensive, and did not look like a dog ad- dicted to " chewing up " any thing livelier than a crust of bread. "We shall not be able to get started up the lake to- day," said Fred. " But let's go to the house. You must be hungry and tired." He and Farr seized upon our packs. It was a relief to walk without their weight. Landlord Godwin, of the Lake House, is as good a host, at bottom, as lives in that whole region. It takes a day to get fairly acquainted with him. He has a way of hesitating when he speaks that makes a stranger feel a little uncertain for a moment. But when you once come GODWIN OF THE LAKE HOUSE. 29 to know him, you know a good fellow, in our humble opinion. His table is a very enjoyable one. (A person is always hungry up there.) That day we dined off the breasts of six partridges: there were other eatables, of course, but the partridges were the attraction for us. Perhaps I am hasty though in saying that the birds were the attraction for all of us. For a certain black-eyed, raven-tressed table-girl took Scott's eyes captive. During our stay there he managed to get up a speaking acquain- tance with her. Afterwards he seemed to be somewhat distressed to learn that this siren of the lakes had a "young man" whom she kept happy company of a Saturday eve : one Llewellyn Moody, a youthful Atlas of the region, with whom it would be advisable to remain on the most civil terms. Fred and Farr had brought with them and bought of Godwin all the raw provisions that they deemed neces- sary, together with a complete kit of camping-out utensils. (A complete kit of camping-out comfortably embraces more than would at first thought be deemed necessary. We had, I remember, a kettle for making pudding and bak- ing beans ; a kettle for heating water ; a deep frying-pan or spider with a very long handle, three feet, such as can be used over an open fire without burning the hands ; and a large iron baker-sheet for cooking partridge breasts and biscuits. Then there was a coffee-pot and a tea-pot, half a dozen tin plates, as many pint dippers, four tin 30 OUR OUTFIT. spoons, with the same number of knives and forks, a hatchet and an axe. There were also two butcher knives for cutting meat, one a sort of bowie knife with a dog's head handle, loaned us by Godwin. Add to these an old japanned tin powder-case for the sugar, a bucket for butter, a tin box for coffee and another for the tea. In addition to all this " kitchen ware " were the two rubber blankets and the two wool blankets, and an old "puff," that Farr had brought; also an A tent, seven by seven, i.e., seven feet square on the ground. Some of these articles might, perhaps, have been dis- pensed with ; yet the most of them were really necessary. And on account of this amount of necessary luggage it is better for a party whether going for pleasure or other- wise to go as much by water as possible, in a good, roomy boat.) An account was kept of every thing bought, so that in the end each could pay his proportionate part of the expenses ; this was what we had agreed upon at the out- set. Fred's boat, in which they had already stowed al) the luggage, lay in the river a few rods from the house. It was a sort of bateau, about twenty-four feet long by four feet in width amidships. Once it had been painted white with a red lapstreak, but hard service and stormy waters had much defaced it. Fred had brought with him two dozen of traps, and Farr had a dozen. Of guns we had a great supply, more guns than ammunition, as it turned out. Fred had a "CANADA PLUMS." 31 long single-barrelled shot-gun, and Farr had a double- barrelled shot-gun and a Sharpe's army (cavalry) car- bine, one of those clumsy breech-loaders in which the barrel is connected and held to the chamber by an iron strap in front of the trigger guard. In loading, this strap acts as a lever to slide the barrel forward from the chamber, into which it fits rather loosely. The chamber is then filled with powder, and the bullet is thrust into the base of the barrel. The strap is then snapped into position, bringing the barrel with the ball down against the chamber and the powder. A percussion cap is then placed upon a nipple and tube entering the chamber, and the piece is ready for firing. All these weapons besides our own ! For provisions Fred had got a sack of flour, some pork, a half bushel of corn meal, a bushel of potatoes, three pounds of coffee, a pound of tea, four pounds of sugar, a quantity of butter, and two papers of Horsford's " Bread Preparation," this last for making warm biscuits. In the little garden attached to the Lake House there was a thicket of plum trees ; of the kind called " Canada Plums," similar to pomegranates. To these we helped ourselves liberally ; for they grew in liberal quan- tities. The ground beneath the shrubs was literally red with the plums. Everybody ate all they wanted, and no questions. CHAPTER IV. Starting up the Umbagog. Somebody's Handkerchief. A Gale on the Lake. Moments of Peril. A Drenching. Birch Island. Fred's Match-box. Tea, Pork and Crackers. Metallic's Is- land. " Old Metallic." Our Camp at " Moll's Rock." Buried Ducks. A Cosy Night. AS soon as it was fairly light next morning, we were astir. Breakfast was eaten. Godwin's bill against us was a very light one. He charged us not half the usual hotel rates. It was well he did, or we should have been utterly bankrupted then and there. Some minutes before sunrise we went aboard our boat and took our places for the long pull up the lakes. There were two sets of row-locks, with oars to match. Fred took one pair and Farr the other. Spot laid down on Fair's coat be- hind his master. I took the stern seat and steering oar. 3cott had the bow seat and a paddle. "All ready!" cried Fred, cheerily. "Give way! one- r, r o-three and away we go ! " Following the crooked channel of the Cambridge, it is STARTING UP tME UMBAGOG. 33 nearly a mile out to the lake proper ; yet when the gates are down at Errol the Umbagog flows bacfc to the very yard fence at Godwin's. The flats were now in part overflowed. The morning had been clear and calm ; but directly after sunrise the wind began to blow from the south-west. By the time we were fairly out of the Cambridge on the lake, there was quite a " sea." Fred kept glancing uneasily at the sky. "No danger, is there?" said Scott. "No danger here," replied Fred. "But if this wind keeps rising, we shall have it rough up toward the Nai- rows ! " This prediction rather dampened the jolly spirits in which we had embarked. We grew less talkative, but rowed the harder. A few minutes later we rounded B. Point and saw the whole southern half of the lake before us. Rather rough and windy it looked, too. " No white caps, yet ! " said Farr, turning on his seat for a look ahead. " Guess we can go through, Fred." " Can't tell that yet," said Fred. " It's a thing you can't count on, this lake. Gets up quicker than Jack-in-a-box if a puff of wind blows. My opinion is, if we want to get through those Narrows this forenoon we have no time to lose." On this hint we all began pulling with a will. To avoid the trough of the waves, we kept the boat headed north-west till we were within three-fourths of a mile of the west shore, then turned her squarely to the north-east, with the wind 34 A GALE ON THE LAKE, at our backs, and heading straight into the Narrows, four miles distant For the first ten minutes we rode as lightly as a duck, and shot ahead rapidly. The boat was not heavily loaded for its size. But soon white caps began to show, and the swells grew larger. The boat began to bounce on them and the spatters to fly. We kept steadily at our work, however, and under our united strength the bateau went about as fast as the waves, though a few big swells combed into the stern, making my seat far from comfortable. Ten minutes more and we were within a mile of the Narrows. All about, the waves were running white. The boat was plunging heavily. The spray flew in upon us. The roar of the dashing was so great that we could scarcely hear each others' voices. Spot howled dismally. I confess to being considerably scared. For the wind blew smartly ; and all down through the Narrows the lake was as rough as a cataract. Just then Scott's hat flew off and was dashed out of sight several rods ahead ! " Never mind that ! " he shouted. " Let it go ! I've got an old cap in my pack." " Steady ! " shouted Fred. " Hold her steady, Farr ! " Then he turned for a look. We were bouncing prodig- iously. " I fear for her backbone ! " groaned Scott. " Take a look, Farr, and tell me what you think of it ! " said Fred, resuming his oars. Farr looked. MOMENTS OF PERIL. 35 " Never saw it worse," said he. " I don't know, but I'm afraid it will be too much for her. I should say, go foi Birch Island." " Birch Island it is, then ! " exclaimed Fred. " Head her for that island off to the right of us ! " he added to me, pointing to where a clump of white birches and a few " NOW FOR IT I OVER WITH YOU ! " evergreens seemed to rise out of the waves about a hun- dred rods away. I had all I could do to hold the boat steady with the steering oar. The swells threw us about amazingly. There is a strength and friskiness in these fresh water surges that is never felt on the more staid salt water. Those were wild moments. Fred, Farr and Scott were 36 A DRENCHING. pulling with might and main. The spray flew over us ; the spatters drenched us. I expected every moment that we should be swamped. And as we drew near the island, our case seemed not much improved. The waves broke against it fiercely. " It won't do to let her run on there ! " exclaimed Farr. " It will stave her ! " " Yes," said Fred. " But it is not deep water. Sit still and pull till I give the word, then jump out everybody, and ease her ashore." " Now for it ! Over with you ! " he shouted, a moment afterwards. We leaped out, and carried the boat by main strength high upon the sand. It had been a sharp tussle. Never was I so glad to set my foot on firm earth. We were drenched to our skins. The rubber coats and blankets had protected the flour and meal and sugar; but ever}' thing else was soaked and the boat was a third full of water. The wind, piercing our wet clothes, made us shiver despite the exer- tion. As soon as we could secure the boat we ran to the lea of the birch and cedar thicket that occupied the middle of the islet. "Let's have a fire and dry ourselves 1" exclaimed Scott "We shall have to stay here till the wind lulls." Farr got the axe from the boat and fell to splitting up dry cedar; a rather large cedar (for the island) had blown TEA, PORK AND CRACKERS. 37 down some years before and now lay dry and broken among large stones. He soon had a great pile of it split. " Who's got a match ? " he cried. Scott took out his little tin match-box and opened it, but stopped short with a loud exclamation : " Wet ! every one wet as sop ! " and he poured water out of the box! Fred laughed. "Let me see if my match-box is as bad off as yours." He pulled out a flat bottle tightly corked. " This is my match-box," said he. " Takes more than one soaking to wet that inside." And his were the only matches that had escaped. We soon had a fire going, a rousing one, about which we stood and steamed in the shelter of the thicket. The roar of the agitated lake came to our ears from the wind- ward side of the islet ; but on the lee-side the water was not very rough. Up at the Narrows it looked white and tumultuous ; and against the rocky side of Metallic Island, half a mile above, we could see the surf leap up eight and ten feet, white as milk. I vowed inwardly not to put out on the lake again till the wind went down, if I had to stay there alone two weeks. Farr kept asking us how we should like to be " out there now," pointing toward the weltering Narrows. We began to feel like having dinner. Fred brought round the frying-pan and a piece of pork. This was cut 38 METALLIC'S ISLAND. into slices, and " sizzled " in the pan. The fat looked very clear and good. At home, neither Scott nor I ate salted pork, or the fat. But when Fred brought round a dozen crackers and Farr had made a pot of strong tea, we felt a good appetite to sit down round the " spider," each with a fork to break and dip pieces of cracker in the fat and sip dippers of sweet tea without milk. We seemed to need the fat after our drenching. " I begin to understand how the Esquimaux can drink train oil," remarked Scott. " It's the cold and the rough life they lead that makes it relish." The wind continued to blow all through the middle of the day. It always does here, when once it gets started. We began to think we should have to spend the night on the island ; but toward four o'clock, afternoon, it subsided considerably and the swells fell with it. " Let's start," said Fred. " We can get as far as Moll's Rock, and have time to camp before dark." We bailed out the boat, then got in and pushed off. " What's ' Moll's Rock ' ? " inquired Scott. "It is a ledge on the west shore about a mile below the outlet," (Androscoggin) Farr explained. ''They call it Moll's Rock from old Mollocket, an Indian squaw, who used to live there. She had a wigwam on the ledge, a little up from the water, for a good many years. It's a pretty place. Old Metallic was her husband, it is said. He was a chief. That is where they get the name of Metallic's Island from him." OUR CAMP AT MOLL'S ROCK. 39 From Birch Island to Moll's Rock it is not far from three miles, as I judged. The upper portion of Lake Umbagog the part above the Narrows is by far the most picturesque. All about the northern and western sides there are fine bold peaks, with dense unbroken forests, clothing their slopes to the very shores. The red and gold of the birches and maples was contrasted finely with the black green of the spruce thickets. A pleasanter scene can hardly be imagined than when the bright glow of the setting sun rested warmly on all this autumnal splendor, and on the broad lake, now quiet as a mirror. It seems incredible how soon this tumultuous white- capped expanse sinks to repose when the wind falls! Its calms succeed as rapidly as its bursts of wave-lashed wrath. Just as the last rays of sunset were burnishing the waters, we pulled into the little cove to the south of Moll's Rock. This is a favorite camping place for sports- men on these waters. The place was strewn with the debris of broken boxes, tin cans, and, I regret to say, broken bottles. One bit of board nailed to a tree said that " Warren Noyes and party camped here eleven days, from September 2$th, 18 , till October yth;" another, driven into the ground like a headstone, informed the passer that thereunder rested the bodies of one hundred and fifty-six ducks, being the surplus above table use shot by the above party. We kindled a fire in a stone fireplace built by formei 40 BURIED DUCKS. occupants, and pitched our tent Fred got out the " Hors- ford " and proceeded to knead up a batch of biscuits, using a piece of butter for "shortening." Scott under- took to make tea ; and it was my duty to prepare coals and roast for the party two potatoes apiece and one for Spot. While we were thus engaged, a flock of black ducks went whirring over, flying very low. Farr, who was stand- ing by, seized his shot-gun and let both barrels go among them ; and he had the good fortune to wing one of them. It fell into the lake at a hundred yards or less from the shore. Farr immediately pushed off to pick it up. But it swam and dived so expertly that he was obliged to shoot it again with Fred's long-barrelled gun. It was a fine large bird, and would have weighed eight pounds, we thought. Farr dressed it and put it on to parboil for breakfast. Fred cut armful after armful of boughs and made a very comfortable bed inside the tent. On this we spread our rubber blankets and then rolled ourselves up in our wool blankets. The flap of the tent, on the end next the fire, was pinned back to let in the cheerful glow. We lay and talked a long time, planning what we should do when we reached Parmachenee and got into the wild region to the north of it. Ah, we little knew what was before us, or how many hardships and perils must be braved before we should see Moll's Rock again. Loons with their plaintive wild voices sang us to sleep. CHAPTER V. An Early Breakfast. A Duck. On the Androscoggin. A Dead Forest We Enter the Magalloway. Flocks Sheldrakes. "Bottle Brook Pond." A Duck Hunt An Exciting Moment. Hundreds of Them ! The Carbine Bursts. A Bursted Fin- ger. Three Ducks. ^"^ COTT woke the rest of us sometime before sunrise by k_} firing at a loon sailing near, with the little rifle. It star- tled us rather suddenly ; but it was high time we were up. The fire was rekindled. Fred made fritters (' flippers ' he called them) out of flour, using some of the bread preparation and stirring them thinner than for biscuit. Farr finished cooking his duck. I boiled potatoes ; and Fred made coffee the first we had. We hurried things, and had breakfast ready a few minutes after sun-peep. And we ate as speedily as possible, for the wind began to blow a little, rising with the sun. We had a mile and a half to go before getting into the outlet ; and we did not relish the thought of being cooped up there all day again. Twenty-four hours had passed since we left God- win's; and we were still only eight miles above the Lake House. From Upton to the head of Lake Parmachenee it 42 ON THE ANDROSCOGGIN. is eighty miles. It would take us ten days to get up there, at our first day's rate. We all chafed under this estimate. " But we will do better to-day," said Fred. " The wind can't swamp us on the river." "We shall have the current to row against after we get into the Magalloway," suggested Farr ; " and a pretty strong old current, too, after all these rains." Persons do not usually perceive the full magnitude of an enterprise until after they have entered upon it ; that was our case, at least. Spot had what was left of the duck. We struck our tent and packed up without loss of time. In less than an hour, we were embarking again : and an hour is quick time to get breakfast, eat it, and break camp. They who have tried it will say so. Though the wind had risen considerably, we had no trou- ble in crossing to the outlet. Off Reed Point the swells made the boat bounce a little; but immediately on making the Point we were in smooth water and at once pulled into the river. The Androscoggin, where it first leaves the lake, is very crooked, winding about through a shrubby, alluvial meadow of its own making. It is not more than fifty or sixty yards wide here on an average, with a sluggish and hardly percep- tible current. We passed, hereabouts, what Fred called the headvvorks of a raft of logs, itself a raft, upon which was planted a capstan for pulling the greater raft to which it may be WE ENTER THE MAGALLOWAY. 43 attached. It lay high and dry on the bank. About it were scattered heavy levers, capstan-bars and " thorough shots," just as the last gang of drivers had abandoned it. Going on, we entered among a heavy growth of maple and elm, dead and half-fallen. " The big dam at Errol did it," Fred explained. " Wa- ter rose over the roots and killed the trees." From the place where the Androscoggin leaves the lake, to the mouth of the Magalloway it is about two miles The latter comes in at nearly right angles from the north. We reached the forks at half past eight precisely, and at once turned our prow up the stream toward Parma- chenee. Hitherto we had gone with the current. Now we had to breast it. For several miles, however, this current is hardly noticeable. At the confluence, the Magal- loway looks to be as large as the Androscoggin, and is very deep. Ducks rose in flocks ahead of us and went smartly off up stream. "This is about as far as I have ever been," Fred remarked. " I have been out here to the mouth of the Magalloway twice, but never any farther. It will be new territory now for the whole of us." "Well, all we shall have to do will be to follow the river," said Farr. "The stream leads up to the lake; and we cannot very well lose the stream." Flock after flock of sheldrakes rose one after the other. It was agreed that Scott should ship his paddle and sit. in the bow with the guns cocked and ready for them. 14 "BOTTLE BROOK POND." The shores were wooded almost exclusively with firs; the stieam was eight and nine rods wide, very dark and seemingly very deep. About half an hour after entering it, we passed a great swamp on the west bank, which the overflowing waters had now changed to a pond. Here at some distance we saw fully fifty black ducks sailing and splashing about. They were too far off to hit with shot. We did not care to turn the boat into the swamp among the many snags and roots. Scott sent a slug from the rifle skipping amongst them, at which twenty-five or thirty rose with a great spattering and whirring of wings. Captain Perkins, of the little lake steamer " Diamond," at Upton, had told Fred to be sure to try " Bottle Brook Pond," for ducks, going up ; and he described the place where we should need to land to go to it so well that we had no trouble in recognizing it. It was about three miles above the mouth of the Magalloway. The guns were reloaded and plentifully shotted. The secret of shooting well with a shot gun is to put in a good lot of shot. If you put in a whole handful, they will be pretty sure to knock over something. Bottle Brook Pond lies abreast of the river, from which it is separated by a bank not more than ten feet above high water and twelve or fifteen rods in width. But this bank is so densely wooded with firs that no glimpse of the pond is obtained from the stream. The pond itself is of no great extent : eight or ten acres, perhaps. Carefully securing our boat to a root in the bank, we A DUCK HUNT. 45 landed, guns in hand, and cautiously made our way through the firs. Farr, in order to have all the available shooting power ready, had made an experiment one he will not care to try again, I fancy : he loaded his Sharpe's carbine with shot; pretty heavily, too, it would seem : at any rate, he admitted afterwards that he had put in a "good dose" of shot, and powder enough to a little more than fill the chamber I Perkins had predicted rightly. Our first glimpse of the pond through the firs showed it to be alive with both black ducks and sheldrakes. There they were, paddling about, diving, flapping, and spattering the water, with an occasional low quack ! The sight of them so near, made Scott fairly wild with excitement. " More than five hundred of them ! " he muttered. " We will have them, sure ! " Not daring to disclose ourselves, we crouched under cover of a fallen fir-top, ten or fifteen yards back from the water, amid the shrubbery. We could see them plainly enough ; but they had not espied us. It was fun to watch them at play. They were not more than twenty yards from the shore not a hundred feet from where we lay in ambush. They were darting first one way, then another, on the water, but mainly in little groups of three, four and five together. " We'll just everlastingly pepper 'em ! " whispered Farr. " Five guns seven barrels. Get good aim now, and when I count three, blaze away 1 Ready, now one two three." Whang bang whang! went six barrels. 40 AN EXCITING MOMENT. There was a great smoke ! loud quackings of alarm and terror from the pond ! involuntary shouts from the whole of us ! Spot barking loudly ! Farr leaped up with the carbine for another shot. Through the smoke we could see the air black with ducks going up IT MADE A TREMENDOUS REPORT. off the water with a mighty flutter and rumble of wings. Farr aimed into the flock and fired the carbine. It made a tre- mendous report, and I saw him reel backward against a tree. The piece itself jumped out of his hands, as if thrown. Fan recovered his legs, but began to shake his hand. THREE DUCKS. 47 " Hurt ye ? " we cried out to him. " Did it burst ? " "Oh-h-h ah-h-h ! " moaned the carbiner, dancing about. " It it just burst my forefinger ! ! " Fred ran to pick up the exploded weapon. The iron strap had burst, throwing the barrel and chamber apart at full stretch ! It was this broken strap that struck his finger, bruising it badly. The tube, too, had spit the powder and spattered his other hand, burning it slightly. Leaving him to shake the agonies out of his aching finger, the rest of us turned our attention to the pond. One duck was splashing about close in to the shore ; another lay still on the water a little farther out ; and far over on the other side of the pond we could see still another fluttering near the shore. "Three down ! " cried Fred. " Not so very bad, though we might have done better." The one near the shore was immediately secured. But we could not reach the other, and tried in vain to make Spot go in after it. No use. All he would do was to put his tail betwixt his legs and slink off : he wasn't a water dog. Finally, by going back to the boat for the hatchet and cutting a very long pole, we contrived to pull in the second one. Meanwhile Scott and Fred had gone round the pond after the third duck, which they knocked over with a pole and- secured without much difficulty. Thus closed our first duck- shooting exploit. We were greatly elated except Farr. We had three ducks and a shattered gun and a shattered fiagts. CHAPTER VI. A Crooked River. The Magalloway Lower Settlement A School Mistress. Two Coy Maidens. The Diamond Forks. Partridge Bluffs. A Hasty Meal. More Ducks. The Game Escapes Swifter Water. " Alder-Grab Rapids." A Sharp Fight with the Current. " Sneaking up." Tired out. A Deserted House. r I THE most crooked stream in the world is the Magal- JL loway. There are crooks about which one may pull a boat two miles without getting ahead twenty rods. At one place, which we reached an hour later, the river is " three double" ; so that really we had to row past a given point three times to get by it for good. We presently emerged from the fir forest into clearings. Here and there a low, weathered house or barn disclosed itself. This is what is known as the Lower Settlement of Magalloway. It is in the edge of New Hampshire. The district is called, on the map, Wentworth's Location. It is not a town, nor yet a plantation. How the people stand re- lated to the great body politic, generally, I am sure I don't know. But however their political situation may determine, it must be a blessed nice one, for they have no taxes to pay not even poll tax or school tax ; and yet they have a school thanks to the State Treasury ; for we presently passed 48 THE MAGALLOWAY LOWER SETTLEMENT. 49 a house a little up from the bank, where during the noon re- cess fifteen or twenty children were disporting. "Too many for one family," commented Fred. "This must be the place where they have their school." It looked like that. And there was the schoolmistress (it could be none else) standing in the door. Having a great respect for education, Scott raised his hat to her. She frowned, and being of a dark complexion, the effect was so depressing that we redoubled our efforts and made off without loss of time. The clearings and cots are on both sides of the river. There are no bridges. In winter (which means eight months of the year here), the folks cross on the ice. In summer they wade it. In spring and fall and after heavy showers they swim it. A little farther up we passed a two-story house with very comfortable out-buildings. There were also two large bateaux moored to the bank. This is "Spencer's," the headquarters of the Berlin Mills (N .H.) Lumbering Company. Here one may spend the night, or a week if desirable, and have good board at two dollars per day. Tourists now and then get up as far as this place. There is fine trout fishing at Escohos falls, five or six miles above this point. Shortly after passing Spencer's, we espied two maidens at a place where a cart track led down the bank to the water in wading time. They were waiting and casting wistful looks toward the opposite bank. Evidently they wished to get across. There was no boat. They were very pretty girls 50 THE DIAMOND FORKS. from where we were. Fred hailed them politely and asked if they would like to have us set them across in our boat. They regarded us thoughtfully a moment, then precipitately retired into a sweet elder-bush. Modest. But it hurts one's feelings to have well-meant offers received in that way. Again we plied our oars. Off to the west Mount Dustin, with dark slopes of spruce, walled in the river valley. Due north the great round white peak of Escohos one of the highest mountains in Maine rises almost to the snow-line. To the north-west the " Dia- mond Peaks " display their brown rectangular crags, disclosing a wild, narrow valley, down which comes the Swift Diamond Stream. The valley resounds to the roar of its cascades. It joins the Magalloway at this place. A little above the forks, the Magalloway bends from the base of a high hill covered with poplars and white birches- Here we found a strong current. Fred stopped rowing. "Isn't it getting about time for grub?" he demanded. " One o'clock," said Scott, looking at his time-keeper. " I move we land and get up a dinner," said Farr. We all felt that way. The boat was laid alongside the bank and made fast to a birch. We jumped ashore, glad to stretch our legs. They felt badly kinked after sitting so long. We had not taken half a dozen steps before a fine birch- partridge flew up to the limb of a poplar. "Pass the gun, Farr," said Scott, "the double-birrelled one." PARTRIDGE BLUFFS. 51 It was handed to him. He fired. Down dropped the bird. But at the report there flew up another from the ground near by and alighted on one of the lowest limbs of a neighboring fir. There it stood motionless, close up to the trunk. Scott discharged the other barrel and secured her. The first one was as large a cock partridge as I had ever seen. " Looks as if we no need to starve," said Fred. " These ducks and two partridges the first half day on the river." Near by were the ruins of an old logging camp : a rude structure, consisting of a frame of stakes and poles covered with broad "shingles " of hemlock bark. It was nearly forty feet long by twenty in breadth. Heavy snows, accumulating on the roof, had broken it in. This furnished us fuel. The dry bark burned readily. Nothing save coal makes a hotter fire than dry hemlock bark. Fred set up a " spunhungen " (a pole with one end stuck in the ground and extending out over the fire : an Indian device, hence called by the Indian name), and soon had potatoes boiling and meat sizzling. Farr meantime had fallen upon the partridges and was making the feathers fly like a goshawk. Very soon two plump breasts were in the fry-pan, which was filled partially with water. His way of cooking birds was to first parboil them a few minutes, or a few hours, as time permitted, then brown them in the same pan and make a gravy of flour. The breast of a partridge is the only part worth eating, 52 MORE DUCKS. in my opinion. We came to eat nothing but those white breasts. The remaining parts we threw to Spot, raw. Un- less we were unusually hungry, a breast apiece would be about what we wanted ; and unless we had four birds, it was hardly worth while to have a partridge dinner. In twenty-five minutes after Farr began to pick them, he announced them " done ; " and indeed they tasted very well, though Scott pronounced them "a bit too rare." We stopped an hour here. Considering the fact that we shot, dressed, and cooked our dinner, it was not a long halt. From the circumstances, we named the place Partridge Bluff. Just as we were embarking, a large flock of ducks came humming down the stream. There was a scramble for the guns. Fred fired among them; but they had got a little past. None of them stopped with us. The current was more rapid, on turning the bend, beyond the bluff. We had to work steadily to make fair progress against it, two miles an hour. A second flock of ducks went up from the water a few rods above the bend. Scott let two barrels go among them. One tumbled back. " Good shot ! " we shouted. But the wounded duck dived next moment ; and though ive waited and watched five or ten minutes, we saw nothing more of it. Possibly it got entangled in the brush beneath the bank, under water, and being severely wounded, drowned there and never rose. Or it may have swam to some dis- tance, and just raising its head above water under cover of THE GAME ESCAPES. 53 some bush or bunch of grass, thus eluded our notice. Old sportsmen tell many stories of the cunning displayed by ducts when too severely wounded to fly off. There were occasional clearings and old camps along the banks, where lumbering operations had been previously car- ried on, but no cultivated clearings for a space of six or seven miles above the Lower Settlement. The current for this whole distance is disagreeably strong to a party going up. It was not till toward sunset that we sighted an open field and a barn on the left bank, at the foot of a very dark, steep moun- tain. But long before getting up abreast the building, we struck a current so swift and strong that our former experi- ences of it were at once belittled. The river curved sharply to the right, disclosing a visible incline, down which the water poured with a steady sweep, swift, black and arrowy. Several rocks rose above the surface. About these the divided current foamed and threw up white jets. There was a very perceptible roar. Both banks are rather steep, and densely packed with black alders, rendering it well-nigh impossible to land a line to tow with. At the end of our long day it looked disheartening enough. And yet we did not like the idea of camping below it, and having it before us for next day. For as much as ten minutes we hung in the eddy at the foot of the rapid and studied it, how to get up best. Fred thought we had better take the mid-channel, where there wa& ample room between the rocks. We all drew breath, spat o our hands, set our teeth, and at the word from Fred, went at it with a will and under a full head of muscle. The bateau 54 SWIFTER WATER. shot out of the eddy, cut into the strong water, and went up, yard after yard, through it, but kept going slower and slowei as we drew toward the top. " We're gaining ! " Fred shouted. " We shall do it ! " We struck quick and with all our strength. So strong was the impulse and so great the resistance of the current, that the boat settled into it almost at the gun-whales. Still we gained, inch by inch, and were within ten yards of the top ; there we came to a standstill. " Harder ! We're not gaining ! " Fred yelled, panting and buckling to his oars. " Harder ! Harder ! " " Harder ! Faster ! or we shall go on the rocks ! " Every nerve now! But we could not gain. The mighty strength of the current held us stark and stiff. We sprang and struck and surged with might and main. The water rose round us and roared at us or seemed to. It overmatched us. " We're losing ! " Fred cried out. Inch by inch we lost a yard, then by a strong spurt re- tained it, but could not get a foot higher. Our strength was out of us quite. Farr and Scott both stopped pulling. Instantly we were swept back. An eddy caught the stern. Despite the steering oar, the stern was carried to right. Round came the bow broadside to the stream. In a moment we were end for end, and shot past a great, black slippery stone, within six inches of it. It would have staved our boat like an egg ! A moment more and we were back in the eddy, whence we started, completely winded and spent. "ALDER-GRAB RAPIDS. 55 "Oh-h-h! Such a current!" panted Scott. "But wasn't that a close shave ! that rock ! " " Touch and a go ! " muttered Fred. " Made my hair stand ! We should have gone out of her in a hurry if we had struck it ! There in that awful current, too ! Seven or eight feet deep there ! " We got breath and eased our aching muscles. " No use to try it up the middle there again," said Farr. " But we may possibly get up between the rock and the alders, on the left side. One thing I'm going to try a setting-pole instead of the oars this time." " A good idea," said Fred. We landed a little below and cut a strong ash sapling, which Farr cut off at twelve feet or thereabouts. With this he took my place in the stern, and I took his oars. " Now be ready to do your prettiest this time," said Fred. " Keep her going if you can. Don't let her stop and hang in the current. Let's see if we can't go up at the first spurt, and have it done quick. Ready now. Every time I yell "Hi/" every man dip his oar, sharp. Now for it once more ! Hit Hi! Hi!" We went at the rapid again with fresh courage. "Hi! Hi! Hi!" Up we went. Again the boat settled into the water. Farr sent us on with long shoves with his pole. " Hi I Hi I Hi! Quicker ! " Up, up, yard after yard. We were almost to the crest of the rapid when the bow swerved a foot to left : this side 56 A SHARP FIGHT WITH THE CURRENT. was full of cross currents. Scott in the bow put out his whole strength to force it back. So did Fred and myself. Too late ! It turned side to the stream in a twinkling, and went round, nearly pitching Farr out with his pole. Before we could dip our oars or Farr could regain his t balance sufficiently to set the pole, the current swept us among the alders which projected out over the water, a perfect hedge-row of them. They were clogged and laden with dirt, grass, and dry leaves, lodged among them by the recent freshet. Many of the stalks and twigs were dead and dry. We went smash amongst these, brushing off our hats, scratching our hands and faces, and filling our eyes with dirt, and the boat with grass and leaves ! The water was deep six or eight feet clean under the bank. We went round and round, first one end, then the other, smashing through the alders, and brought up with a thump against a fir-trunk that had fallen out into the stream. The current still pushing us sharply, the boat tipped to one side. The water slopped in. We were stranded. Somebody let fly a few rather bad words, as we went through the alders, of which I, for one, felt ashamed afterwards. This swearing over a mishap is a wicked waste of breath, and a very vulgar, foolish waste, to boot. But it was aggravating, as well as peril- ous. " Worsted us again ! " muttered Fred, winking the dirt out of his eyes. " Only look at the grass we've shipped. Hay enough for a shake-down." "SNEAKING UP." 57 " And alderbrush enough for a camp-fire," add< d Scott. Farr was bailing out the water. " Well, what are we going to do now ? " he demanded. "Here we are beached." " We never can get up this rapid in the world ! " exclaimed Scott, as if fully convinced of it. * " I think we might do it next time," said Fred. " Oh, we never could ! " cried Scott. " It's too strong for us." " It would be about all we could do, any way," Farr ob- served. " But I believe we can sneak up beside these alders." "How's that?" I said. " Let two of us grab hold of the bushes and pull the boat along, foot by foot, while the others fend off," exclaimed Farr. " I think we can work along up in that way. If we can't do it so, we can't at all." "We can but try that," said Fred. "We can't be much worse off." Scott and I took each an oar, in order to hold the boat off from the brush as much as possible. Fred and Farr lay hold of the green alder twigs that hung out over the water. First one would pull, then the other ; each being sure not to let go his hold till the other had got a new one. It was slow work, but tolerably sure. We gained foot after foot, and did not lose. It was not a very stylish way, but like many another not particularly stylish method, it succeeded. We got up after a while past the brink of the rapid, into smooth water. 58 TIRED OUT. In commemoration of our exploit, we called the place Al- der-Grab Rapids. Fifty rods farther on, we came out to cleared fields on both sides of the river ; but a few minutes later, and on rounding a bend, we found ourselves at the foot of another rapid, so much longer and rougher than the one we had but barely conquered, that we immediately gave up the idea of going up it. There was heard, too, the roar of a heavy cataract not far above. "That must be Escohos Falls," said Fred, stopping to lis- ten. "We might as well land here. We can't go much farther, anyhow. We shall have to carry round it." Accordingly we landed at a place where there was a cart- track leading down to a ford, at low water, and drew up the boat. It was time, too. The sun had set. Only its last rays shone on the bald cap of Mount Escohos, that towered to the east of us. We were tired out. Our hands were badly blis- tered, particularly Scott's. We felt cross. We meant to camp on the spot. While Fair and Fred were setting up the tent, however, Scott and myself went to attack an old pine stump for fuel on the hill above, and from that point espied a house about three-fourths of a mile away. It was immediately determined to go to the house and see what could be done there. We had no romantic nonsense about camping out. We much preferred a house when there was one to be reached, and set off at once, following the old cart-road. Fred took his gun. There was a barn as well as a house, both enclosed by a A DESERTED HOUSE. 59 fence of rails and. logs; altogether a very dilapidated estab- lishment. The house was a sprawling, one-story affair, only partially shingled. There were no curtains to the six-pane windows ; and we found, as we had suspected while yet at some distance, that it was deserted, empty, but neither " swept " nor " garnished." The yard was full of tall thistles, with down blowing about in the wind. The door, hah un- hinged, stood partly agape, and among the thistles not a yard from the log door-step, a partridge began to " quit " at our approach. Fred shot it promptly. CHAPTER VII. A Desolate Dwelling. We Camp in the Old House. Hay Shake- downs. A Bloody Axe. The House Afire! A Spoiled Sup- per. A fresh " Spread " Another Fire Alarm. The Chimney Afire. Fireworks on a Grand Scale! Some Mysterious Explo- sions! Pour on Water. The Chimney Subsides. We go to Bed on a Hay-mow. r I THE house inside was a picture of desolation. Dirt, JL soot, and old bricks lay about in quantities. There were two rooms on the ground floor. One of these had been plastered, but the plaster was half off it and covered the floor. There was a queer odor about the place, the odor of that irregular combination of ingredients known as " gurry." Some ruffian had smashed the chamber stairs with an axe ; (we knew it was with an axe, for there lay the axe, a particularly rusty and ugly one, with blood stains on it) . So we did not at once go up chamber. The out-look was not inviting ; no more was the /-look. Nevertheless, we at once decided to camp in the house. " But somebody has got to go back to the boat after stuff," Fred remarked. Nobody wanted that commission. Tired as we were, it seemed a dreadful job. Each one, even Spot, looked glum. THE OLD HOUSE. 6l " Must be done," Fred argued. Everybody looked glummer. [Glummer may or may not be good English.] " Draw lots for it, then," urged Fred. " That's fair," Scott admitted : generally his luck is won- derful. Fred broke four bits off a straw of herdsgrass. We drew. Greatly to his disgust Scott got the short one. He mut- tered evil things. At that, Fred magnanimously offered to go with him. They set off on a tired trot, charging us to kindle a fire ; for it was already dusk. There was a fireplace, but no andirons. Farr remedied this deficit, however, by setting up loose bricks. Fred had left us two matches. We broke up three or four rails from the straggling fence with the bloody axe (I hope it was the blood of nothing nearer man than a yearling), and soon had the deserted hearth aglow. I then started for the barn, to get hay for a bed before it should grow quite dark. The old barn-yard was also filled with thistles, only these were bull thistles instead of Canada thistles ; and here I started up two more partridges. I might have shot them as well as not, for they ran a rod or more before flying. That's always the way. If you want to see game, leave your gun at home. Hearing the gun when Fred shot the first, these two had probably hidden here. 62 THE HOUSE AFIRE. Somebody had cut and stored several tons of hay in the barn the previous summer. I helped myself, bringing along as much as I could get in my arms at two loads. It filled the whole back side of the room, and considered as a bed, looked tempting. Fred and Scott came back, toiling under the weight of kettle, frying-pan, meat, meal, flour, and potatoes. Fred had also taken along our four woollen blankets. Water was then brought from a spring and rill, where an old barrel had been set in days past. While Fred and Scott rested on the hay, Farr and myself got on meat to fry and potatoes to boil, and we were meditating a hasty pudding, when Scott cried, " Hark ! what's that rumbling and roaring ! " The old house had got afire up chamber, about the ill-constructed chimney ! Then there was a lively to-do ! " Fire ! fire ! " Farr began to roar. We had to take the potato-kettle, with all in it, to throw water. It was blazing like mad up through the roof on the outside. Fred got a rail and climbed up by it upon the roof (the eaves were low), and we passed up to him kettleful after kettleful of water. He put it out without much difficulty. But that was not the worst of it. On going inside again, we found that the water had run down, well nigh extinguishing the fire in the fireplace, and filling the spider of meat with wet cinders and soot. There was a dismal puddle on the floor, and it had run under the hay, thereby spoiling our bed utterly. A SPOILED SUPPER. 63 However, we had faced worse disasters than this. Fred fell to work to reproduce supper. Farr and I mopped up, using the hay, which we threw out and then got a fresh supply from the barn. Scott watched the house. These mishaps delayed us so much that it was towards eight o'clock before supper was cooked, including the hasty pudding, which we ate with sugar only ; for Scott was forever preaching against eating so much grease. He thought it highly injurious ; and perhaps it was. It had been long since our noon lunch, and we had labored so smartly, that we were ravenous, and stuffed ourselves so industriously, that together with our fatigue we nearly dropped asleep over the last potato. Scott, however, had been in jeopardy lest the damp floor should give us our death. He roused up and strenuously insisted on a good rousing fire to dry up the moisture. None the rest of us would stir an inch to break up more rails. So he went at it himself, and built what he called a "good rousing-" one, I suppose, for I was already in a drowse. And an- other nice fracas that cost us ! Old Scratch himself was in our luck that night. We were not ten minutes asleep, when another " rumbling and roaring " began. First Fred, then all of us, jumped up, suddenly disturbed by it. " House's afire again ! " Fred shouted. But it wasn't the house this time ; it was the chimney. The old thing was foul as a blackguard, no doubt. Very likely it had never been burned out and was chock full of soot. Scott's rousing fire had touched it off. 6 4 THE CHIMNEY AFIRE. How it roared ! We sat aghast at it. A big freight train rumbling over a long bridge was all I could think of. Perceiving a mighty illumination outside, we ran out. There was a sight for a dark night ! The place 'IT WAS THE CHIMNEY. was light as day ! A column of fire was going out the top of that old chimney, twenty feet high, if it was an inch ! I never saw any thing like that before. And the air fairly sung in through the old door, it drew so hard. It was FIREWORKS ON A GRAND SCALE. 65 clazzlingly bright, and gained strength every minute. The column eveli grew in height. Great red clots of soot flew up like rockets ; and a shower of sparks and cinders was falling. Before we knew it, the old roof was blazing in three or four places. Farr ran for the potato-kettle, and we threw water fast and hard. We soon put out the fire in the shingles. Fred meanwhile had climbed up into the chamber by the ruins of the old stairs, and was calling to bring water at the top of his voice. It had caught all around the chamber floor, and about the roof beneath. Then we worked again. Water in the kettle, in the frying-pan, and in both of Scott's rubber boots, as fast as we could all three run with it ! and Fred up cham- ber dousing it on the fire ! The chamber floor leaked like a thunder shower, and there was a stench of soot so pun- gently powerful that it was like facing a pepper mill to enter the door. Fred put out the fire. "But this chimney's red hot !" he shouted down' to us. " Hisses like a demon, when the water touches it ! Pass up another ke'ttleful ; I'll stand ready to throw." Farr had run to put out another blaze on the outside of the roof ; and Scott and I were hoisting up the kettle to Fred, when there came a report as loud as a gun from near the fireplace ! It was from inside the old brick and stone oven ; and it blew the oven door off its leather hinges clear across the room ! Whether there was powder, or any thing of that sort, in 5 66 SOME MYSTERIOUS EXPLOSIONS. the oven left there, or whether it was gas from the soot that exploded, we could not find out. Fred came down the staircase at a jump. " If this old shebang is going to blow up ! " said he, "I'll be getting down. I believe it's haunted, or be- witched I " The oven was aglow with soot-coal that had tumbled down the flue ; but we could detect nothing else ; and yet we had hardly turned away before there came a second explosion, that blew the glowing coal out the mouth and all over the room. We did not know what to make of that, never have known. Scientific students, perhaps, can account for it. This thing disturbed us worse than all the rest. We kept well out of the range of the oven-mouth after that. It went off once or twice afterwards, but not so loud. Gradually the pillar of fire from the chimney went down ; though it burned an hour or over in all. If any- body saw it at a distance, it must have been an astonishing spectacle. Once or twice while we were carrying water, I heard the surprised cries of wild animals from the side of Escohos. Poor Spot had retreated out to the water-barrel, where he greeted us each time we came out with imploring wags of his tail ; and once when the thistles in the yard had caught fire, he howled dolorously. The flames subsided, but for a long while the inside of the chimney remained in a bright red coal. It shone up into the air ; and the great draught continued to set up THE CHIMNEY SUBSIDES. 67 the flue. It had got so hot that we did not dare to leave it, and so sat up and watched it. Finally Fred climbed up from the outside and threw a fry-pan of water into it, at the top. This raised a prodig- ious hissing ; and a vast volume of steam flew up. But a few fry-panfuls sensibly cooled it, or at least, blackened it ; for the fierce glow died out. Darkness gathered in. The fire place was drenched with water, the hay soaked ten times worse than before ; and the chamber floor dripped like a subterranean cavern. The house was quite unhabitable. " Let's go to the barn," said Farr ; " and try that." " It's long past midnight," Scott declared. We brushed through the bull-thistles, shoved the lean-to door open, and felt our way to the mow. Into ttis we crept, and burying ourselves in the hay, soon dropped asleep. Altogether that was an exhausting day. CHAPTER VIII. Farr Labors at Keel-hauling. A Venerable Darn-needle. Mount Escohos. Wilson's Mills. A Big Dog! Mrs. "Spoff." The Escohos "Carry." French Pete. " fferret Jinny!" Three Dollars to Pay. The Half-moon. A Rough and Mud- dy Trail. Slows. Pete's Ruse. " Watch ! " Escohos Falls. A Wild looking Place. Jack Abram's Spruce. Pete Shakes Hands. WHEN I unglued my eyes next morning, it was broad day-light out of doors. Farr was sitting dn on end, very busily engaged. I had to look twice be- fore Ifully comprehended the extent and design of his labors, and so would you, reader. He was keel-hauling his pants. He had ravelled out about four inches of the leg of one of his knit stockings, and was darning the seat of his pants with the yarn. There was ingenuity and resource ! Seeing me awake and attentive, he grinned sardoni- cally. " What's the use of legs to stockings ? " said he, with a fine scorn in his tone, " unless you use them for repairs. They do no good. Always getting wet, and then staying wet around your shanks." FARR LABORS AT KEEL-HAULING. 69 " But they're handy things to have about one," he added, after a pause filled with long stitches. "Wherever did you get that darn-needle ? " I inquired. " Oh, that's the one I've always had," replied the repairer. " That's another handy thing to have, a darn-needle \ good for splinters, good for mending, good for picking out the tube of your gun, good for a hundred things. I wouldn't travel without one. Why, a darn-needle's a thing you can fall back on most any time." Ah, it was grim business to stir and get up that morning. We were sore, lame, stiff, and felt old all over: we had over-exerted ourselves. Too much exercise is not quite so bad as none at all, however ; it leaves one tougher for next time. Scott got up cross and grumbled at every thing, till Farr sung out to him, " Look o' here, you man that fired the chimney, shut up ! " Fred, too, was rather quiet that morning, but busied him- self getting breakfast. We built a fire out in the yard ; we had had enough of the house. Our wet blankets we hung on the fence to dry in the brisk morning breeze. Fred made another batch of " flippers ; " and those, with coffee, brightened us up a good deal. Leaving our kitchen property at the house, we all four set off in the direction of the falls to " prospect " for a team to draw our boat across the carry. There was what the Magallowayans call a road ; though it might have found difficulty in passing as such almost anywhere else. 70 WILSON'S MILLS. We followed it confidently. Wilson's Mills were some- 'where ahead. The path crooked about among spruce and fir thickets. Quite suddenly, we met a dog a monster so big that we all involuntarily shied from him. He was brin- dled and had a mighty pink muzzle and fine surly eyes, out of which he merely threw us a passing glance. Spot cut out into the bushes and made a great circle around him. "Heavens! what a dog! " Scott exclaimed, glancing civ- illy back after him. " The biggest dog I ever saw in all my life!" " Brought up on bear's meat," Farr suggested. Another turn brought us out in sight of two red houses, three barns and a school-house, the latter so small that at first we took it for a corn-crib. We made for the first red house, and a very comfortable sort of house it was, for the region. A bright-looking little fellow stood in the door- way ; but before we had got quite near enough to accost him, three more dogs rushed out, each larger than the other ; though none of them quite equalled the one we had met. Catching sight of Spot, they made for him, barking and growling like furies. Spot wedged himself betwixt Farr's legs, and having no farther retreat, growled defiance. Fred clubbed his long shot-gun, and whirling it around in a lively manner, knocked the smallest one over, and put the others to flight. The little boy looked on dispassionately. I was glad to "MRS. SPOFF." 71 see that he appeared to regard it as a proper thing to do. Said Scott, "What's your name, my boy? " " I'm not your boy," said the child. " I'm papa's boy." "Right. What is your papa's name?" " His name is Spoff." "Yes, and is Mr. Spoff at home ?" Something about this prefix of Mr. seemed to strike the boy as not being just right, but he got over it and told us that " Spoff " was gone up the Diamond. At this juncture a young woman came to the door. A glance indicated that it was the boy's mother. Scott raised his cap. " Good-morning, Mrs. Spoff," said he. " The little boy tells me that Mr. Spoff is not at home." A little to our surprise, the lady first smiled, then laughed merrily. "Did Frankie tell them papa's name was Spoff?" look- ing with arch reproof into the little fellow's upturned face, while she playfully rumpled his hair. Then she explained to us, " My husband's name is Flint, Spofford Flint. But persons sometimes call him Spoff, for short. That's what Frankie has got hold of." Scott begged pardon. " Why, it was Frankie's mistake," she said. A very pretty woman was Mrs. Flint. Finer eyes I have rarely seen. Her air and manners were those of a lady She was frank and agreeable. We supposed, at 72 THE ESCOHOS "CARRY." the time, that she had not always resided on tho Magallo way ; but I have since learned that we were wrong in out surmise. Well, Nature can make a lady as wel/ as good society, and now and then does. Scott explained that we were wishing to pass the falls, and had hoped to be able to make a bargain with Mr. Flint to draw our boat over the carry. " I can have it done for you," said she, promptly " Do you wish to go over immediately ? " We did. " Very well ; walk in, please, and wait a few moments, till I can send our man." But we thought it better to return at once to the boat, to get it out of the river and pack up our luggage. This we did, and had hardly done so, when the man, " Pete," (whom we had heard Mrs. Flint call) made his appearance, leading a strong black mare harnessed to a long cart. Pete was a French Canadian, of the prevailing pattern ; and the black mare was a veritable Tartar, bearing the pretty name of Jenny. 'Twas a round load for her : that heavy boat with all our traps and bags. All the time we were loading and lashing the boat fast with many turns of the rope, Jenny kept turning the white of a vicious eye round to us. She highly disapproved of the whole proceedings. On getting the word to go, the gentle brute instantly let fly her heels high over the load, and went the wrong way, to wit, back- wards, and came near depositing the cart in the rapids, at the outset. FRENCH PETE. 73 But Pete was not wholly unprepared. He clubbed the white oak whip-stock, and laid the heavy end across the recalcitrant Jenny. " Her ret, Jenn&y ! Herret!" he screamed. He knew only three or four English words ; but had fully mastered our great national oath. This he bestowed on ' Jennay " without stint. " Isn't it strange that that is the first thing these fellows learn of our talk ? " Fred said to me as we followed after the cart. " Never saw one so green yet but that he knew so much English." Mrs. Flint was in the yard as we came along the road past the house. We stopped to pay for the job of drawing the boat " Three dollars," she said, was what they had for taking a boat over the carry. With "Spoff '' himself we might have chaffered for less, not with her. Fred and I paid it, with cheerful alacrity, between us ; though it reduced our united capital to two dollars, twenty-five cents. A little beyond the Flints, the carry path diverges from the road, and leads up through a pasture for a hundred rods or more, then enters the woods. This pasture is the extreme limits of the cleared land on the river. Beyond it lay the great wilderness. At this place the Magalloway falls over a long succession of ledges down 'the ravine be- tween Escohos and " Parker Hill," so called. I do not know th?t the entire height of the fall has ever been calculated. 74 A ROUGH AND MUDDY TRAIL. For a guess, I should place it at from two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet. It is a great place for trout-fishing. The carry is two and a half miles in length. As you go up through the pasture from Flint's, there is a good view of the river valley below, and of a great semi-circular black mountain to the west of it, called the " Half-moon." From the top of Escohos, there is said to be one of the best views to be had from any mountain in New England. Some tourists think it superior to that from Mount Wash- ington. But we had no time to climb mountains for fine views. Our business was of a much more practical character. It was not, however, without some regrets and secret misgiv- ings that we turned for a last look at the houses in the valley below us, then entered the woods. From this point to the head of Parmachenee it is forty-six miles. The vast wilderness before us was not without its charm, nor yet its aspect of peril and mystery. Feelings of this sort were straightly banished by the more exciting details of the way. On entering the forest, the trail at once changed from a dry, though rough, cart- road to an exceedingly wet and muddy one. Sloughs of muck began to disclose themselves. Roaring brooks which dashed across the path had dug it asunder in the midst, leaving great stones plump in the way. About, among, athwart and over these Jenndy leaped and plunged like a wood-demon. Every thing not lashed in THE CARRY. PETE'S RUSE. 75 the strongest manner, was speedily shaken off. At inter- vals of six or eight rods we would have to re-bestow the load. That the cart held together was a growing wonder ! Pete drove when he could keep up. Farr and Scott ran on the off side, to hold the load on. Fred and I sought to do the same thing on the other side. Some- times we did it, sometimes we did not. The mare went by starts and jerks ; and there was no knowing when she meant to start, or when she meant to stop, after starting. She had, moreover, a most peculiar and effective way of hurling the mud from her hoofs. It was impossible to dodge it ; so we hung to the load and took what came to us. But there was spitting! I recollect that one lump, large as one's two fists and soft as pig's grease, took Scott olump on the mouth. He' let go, sputtered, and fairly At length we came to a slough so soft and long that Pete stopped. " No passeY' he said. " Hattie (Mrs. Flint) not know dees ! " Scott and Farr argued, urged, and raged at him. Pete would not start the horse. It did no good to tell him we had paid to be carried across. He did not, or else would not, understand it. "Let's take the reins away from him and drive through ourselves," Farr said. But that seemed a rather summary way of behaving. 76 " WATCH." Besides, if we should get Jenny irretrievably mired, the responsibility would lie with us. Fred quietly drew Pete aside and took out his wallet. First he showed him twen- ty-five cents. Pete brightened a little, but shook his head. Fred judiciously hesitated awhile, then took out a fifty cent bill. Pete was shrewd. Having seen that Fred had a fifty and a twenty-five cent scrip, he at once set his price. " Seventy-five cent ! " he said, and stuck for that. Fair was for pitching him into the slough without further ado. Scott thought we had best go back to get authority from Mrs. Flint. But the distance was nearly two miles ; and the road was fearful. We shrank, too, from involving her in the fuss, though it was clearly one in which she was inter- ested. On the whole, we concluded to give Pete his " seventy- five cent " ; but Farr declared that he would thrash him as soon as we came out to the river. Peter was more or less of a swindler. On getting the money, however, he at once started Jenny into the slough. And in the tussle that followed, we nearly forgave the Frenchman : that was a slough such as John Bunyan might have parabled. If Jenny had not been a most remarkable animal, we should have stuck there for good. Once out of this slough, however, the way improved. We had reached the height of land, and now turned down the heavily-wooded slope toward the river. But we had A WILD-LOOKING PLACE. 77 lost a lynch-pin from the hind axle ; and while in full ca- reer, the wheel rolled off ! It was put on again ; but the wooden pins we substituted kept breaking. " Watch ! " Pete admonished, pointing to it. " Watch ! " Fred watched, with fresh pins ready. The upper end of the falls, where we came out of the carry road a few minutes later, is a very wild-looking place. The stream, black as ink and overhung with straggling spruce, rolls tumultuously down over huge stones. The roar is heavy and continuous. Some of the "pitches" show a perpendicular fall of twenty feet or more. In one of these a lumberman had been drowned the previous spring. His name (Jack Abram) is cut in a spruce trunk at the foot of the pitch. Above this point there is smooth water up to "The Narrows," ten miles. The boat was taken off the cart and launched, and the luggage stowed as before. Jenny's head was then turned homeward. She was covered with mud, a complete crust of it. Scant as was our stock of potatoes, Fred gave her a couple. Used to nothing but abuse from Pete, the mare was manifestly astonished. She looked at Fred in a singular way, but took the potatoes. Pete came to shake hands with us at parting. " Good-by," I said to him. " Goo'-by," said he. But Farr would not shake hands with him. 78 PETE SHAKES HANDS. " He's a skunk, any way," quoth our comrade ; bu tie did not put his threat of thrashing him in execution. For my own part, I fancy that both Pete and Jenny well earned all the money they got from us ; though Pete's ruse to raise the price was a little irregular. CHAPTER IX. No Dinner. The Fir Forest. Fairly Afloat in the Wilderness. Herons. The Pretty "Round Woods." A Canada Jay. A Clearing and a Loggers' Shanty. We Resolved to Camp in it A Bear. Night in the Woods. A Nocturnal Disturbance. Scott Shoots through the Roof. Spot's Fright The Prowler Decamps. A Morning Nap. T T was half past two, afternoon. We had eaten nothing JL since breakfast. On the carry we had felt hungry; but now that noon had past, we were less so, and decided to go on for a couple of hours, then camp for the night. So much for a well-established habit of taking our dinner at noon. Above the falls the river averages from six to ten rods in width. It is deep and black, an aspect enhanced by the fir forest on either bank, dark green, sombre, and pro- foundly quiet. There were few birds here at this season, or, as I am inclined to believe, at any season. The most noticeable feature about the stream is its silence. ,The current creeps on steadily. If you stop rowing, it drags 8o FAIRLY AFLOAT IN THE WILDERNESS. you slowly back ; and you would not know that you were drifting unless your eye caught sight of a twig, or a bit of bough, coming slowly to meet you. The crooks and bends are numerous; but the forest is so dense here that one can- not see just how much he is the sport of them ; and that is one comfort. As we paddled on, following all these meanderings, the impression grew that we might get so involved that to get out would be impossible. In an hour we had faced every point of the compass. The general course of the stream is from north to south. But a stranger could never have guessed it, that first afternoon above the falls. The peaks of moderately high mountains on both sides of the river valley were from time to time to be seen over the fir tops. Escohos was alternately behind and fronting us ; then to left or right. A tall, dark hill, known as Emery's Misery, played similar tricks. We conjectured at random as to the origin of this odd name. Beaver Hill, a pine- clad ridge to the east of the valley, was more easily ac- counted for. Above Escohos we saw but few ducks, and these at a distance. Not a duck was shot till we arrived on the lake. Occasionally a great blue heron (Ardea Herodias) would start up, breaking the silence with its heavy flap- pings. Several times we shot after them in the air, but never brought down any thing. At rather unfrequent intervals, a kingfisher would spring his ratt?e, and go noisily up the stream in advance of us. A CANADA JAY. 8 1 But Fred assured us that they were not nearly so plenty here as on the upper course of the Androscoggin. Here and there a sluggish brook made in through the bank, showing a slim channel fringed with melancholy alders. Another shrub, however, began to attract our attention, and from henceforth made one of the most agreeable features of the river scenery. Clinging to the bank and leaning out over the water, we now began to note the vivid red clusters of mountain ash, or round-wood berries. With every mile they grew more and more plen- tiful, till sometimes both banks presented a bright scarlet border, often reflected in the still dark water with wonder-