UC-NRLF 
 
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 Japan 
 
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 THE LIBRARY 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
 /A 
 
yi Kjrentle Jen\ 
 in Ja^ 
 
 >an 
 
0/ this edition there have been printed from 
 type by Douglas C. McMiirlrie one thou- 
 sand copies only on Ozaka linen paper. 
 
 This is copy number ...X- 
 
CHERRY BLOSSOMS IN FRONT OF THE 
 BRITISH EMBASSY, TOKYO 
 
A Gentle Jehu 
 IN Japan 
 
 by 
 EtKelL.M.?Lean 
 
 New\brk 
 Dodd.Mead and Company 
 
 1911 
 
Copyright, 1912, by Ethel L. McLean 
 
affectionately dedicated to 
 My Mother 
 
JDSs/o 
 
 M23 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 I 
 
 Across the Continent 1 
 
 II 
 
 The Pacific 12 
 
 III 
 
 An American Territory 16 
 
 IV 
 On to Japan 33 
 
 V 
 Yokohama 38 
 
 VI 
 
 The Inland Sea 47 
 
 VII 
 Kyoto 62 
 
 VIII 
 The Cherry Dance 78 
 
 IX 
 
 Human Tandems 88 
 
 X 
 
 The Capital 106 
 
 XI 
 Easter. . .- 120 
 
 XII 
 
 Hospitality and Ceremonial. . . . 130 
 
 XIII 
 Fujiyama 138 
 
 XIV 
 
 Farewell to Nippon 144 
 
A Gentle Jehu in Japan 
 I 
 
 ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 February ninth. 
 
 T MUST have been very foolish — 
 everybody told us it was — with a 
 long journey across country ahead 
 of us and so many trains to choose 
 from, to allow only thirty-five minutes for our 
 connection at Montreal and that at a time when 
 even the trains between New York and Buffalo 
 were running four to five hours behind schedule. 
 The fact that by so doing we went in and out 
 of the same depot was very tempting — and why 
 did they claim that the C. P. R. Express would 
 wait half an hour for us if it was not a safe gamble. 
 We had not been an hour out of New York 
 when we had a hot-box. From there on one 
 kind of a delay followed another until we began 
 to think of the advantages of a night in Montreal 
 and to count the number of friends who could 
 claim to have advised us. 
 
 Tingling with excitement and a decided feel- 
 ing of uncertainty we finally prepared to alight 
 
 [1] 
 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 at the junction in the hope that "she" was still 
 waiting. 
 
 We slowed down, the porter dropped our bags 
 off, then once more we forged ahead. Three 
 frantic pulls on the rope and we came to a dead 
 stop. It was snowing hard as we hurried back 
 along the platform and nothing could be seen 
 save the brilliantly lighted train, — steam up, 
 like a bird poised for flight — and a small dark 
 spot which was our luggage. What a relief, 
 after the rush of the last few weeks, to find a 
 smiling porter making up our compartment for 
 the night and to know that for five days at least — 
 more if we had bad luck — we would have nothing 
 to do but eat and sleep, look out at the scenery 
 and read ! 
 
 February twelfth. 
 
 Never have I seen so much snow! For two 
 days we have wandered along river-banks and 
 lake-borders and never a sign of water. Even 
 the ice is invisible under its mantle of snow, we 
 can only tell where the water ought to be by 
 the slope of the banks and the lovely white 
 hills specked with firs. Today all that has 
 changed. Not a hill, not a stream or body of 
 water of any kind — the perfect flatness would be 
 monotonous were it not that every twig of every 
 
 [2] 
 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 bush and tree, every weed, is ice-coated. It 
 looks like fairy-land and is a constant delight. 
 
 February thirteenth. 
 
 This morning, to quote the porter, "the scen- 
 ery began." 
 
 The Rockies are certainly well named. Such 
 majestic masses of stone must be awe-inspiring 
 and breath-snatching at any time, but laden 
 with snow, as they are now, are beyond descrip- 
 tion. One cannot drink it all in, shooting through 
 on an express. A camping trip seems to be the 
 only solution, but one would have to stop and 
 camp every few miles. To our great delight, 
 the thermometer has risen so that sitting on the 
 observation platform is quite comfortable. A 
 few tunnels, short ones, and many snow-sheds, 
 are the only unpleasant features. Two drum- 
 mers who conversed loudly on the comparative 
 merits of different brands of sardines and cigars 
 occasionally brought us to earth with a dull thud. 
 The enormous height of the trees adds to the mag- 
 nificence and a snow-storm this afternoon seemed 
 to be the last possible touch of beauty. As an 
 engineering feat this trip is a marvel and I'm 
 not surprised to hear that it is becoming so 
 popular in Summer that the railroad company is 
 busy enlarging all their hotels along the route. 
 
 [31 
 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 As the "show-places" are all closed from Octo- 
 ber to May, we're going through to Vancouver 
 without stops. 
 
 February fourteenth. 
 
 The grandeur of the last few days is gone, 
 also the snow. Everything is green and many 
 trees and much water form an attractive land- 
 scape. Although at times we were as much as 
 six hours late we made all up but half an hour, 
 and came in nearly on time. 
 
 The Hotel Vancouver is not specially attract- 
 ive and rather old for such a new place, but still 
 it is comfortable and better than the train. 
 
 The only thing any one could recommend as 
 worth seeing was Stanley Park. After five days 
 of inaction we scorned suggestions of driving 
 and set out nobly on foot. 
 
 How I wish you could have been with us this 
 morning! You would have loved that walk. 
 When we reached the park our longing for exer- 
 cise was satisfied, but such a small place as 
 Vancouver must have a small park (we thought), 
 so having arrived we might as well have a look 
 in. It was situated on the edge of the water, 
 Vancouver Bay. We crossed a long bridge 
 and were confronted with a choice of direction. 
 To the left ran a bridle-path. A sign pointing 
 
 141 
 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 straight ahead, through a narrow gateway, 
 which hmited the use of the path to pedestrians 
 and was rustic enough to suit the scenery, said 
 "to the big trees," and another to the right 
 "to the buffalo." We chose the big trees and 
 thought perhaps we'd look at the buffalo on the 
 way back. 
 
 Apparently there is no winter here and al- 
 though saturated from the recent rains, every- 
 thing was delightfully green. 
 
 Immense pines, as straight and much taller 
 and bigger in girth than telegraph poles, grew 
 on every side. Some were covered with moss 
 and small ferns grew out of it along the trunk 
 and many of the branches. Lovely holly- 
 bushes, some of them bearing berries, seemed to 
 emphasize the size of the trees and underneath 
 all was a carpet of what we call Boston ferns. 
 It was all fascinating and whenever we realized 
 we were growing weary and thought of turning 
 back, another sign, "to the big trees," would 
 spur us on. We had seen any number of trees 
 all bigger than any we had ever seen before, 
 but if there was one biggest we felt we must see 
 it. We were finally rewarded by the sight of a 
 huge one, hollowed out to all appearances by 
 age and nature, and big enough to admit of at 
 least a dozen people standing inside at once. 
 
 [5] 
 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 We were pretty tired so I suggested taking 
 what looked like a short cut back along the 
 water's edge. We took it but — oh, you short 
 cut! It was at least twice as far as the other 
 way and by the time we finally achieved the 
 entrance, we were glad to drop into a waiting 
 trolley and be hurried back to the hotel. A bath 
 and a good lunch made us feel better than new, 
 but as Vancouver does not look very interesting 
 we are rather glad that a rainy afternoon gives 
 us an excuse to be lazy. 
 
 Tomorrow we start early for Victoria by boat 
 and after a couple of hours there will continue 
 to Seattle, where we are due at 9:30 in the 
 evening. 
 
 February sixteenth. 
 
 Such a tedious day as we had yesterday! 
 I should never advise any one to take that trip, 
 but the weather may have had something to 
 do with it. It was pouring when we awoke 
 and I was rather inclined to wait over a day. 
 Appeals to the weather prophets elicited the 
 information that the rain might continue for a 
 week! Not having a week to spare we agreed 
 to brave the elements. The rain had stirred 
 up the water just enough to make us wonder for 
 several hours if we were going to be seasick. 
 
 [61 
 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 The clouds hung low so that nothing could be 
 seen. The saloon grew stuffy and the "prayer- 
 benches" in front of all the chairs were much too 
 high. At Victoria it cleared up and we were 
 glad to land and use our limbs once more. At 
 the end of an hour we had seen all that appeared 
 worth seeing, the rain was coming down heavily 
 once more and when we tried to find shelter 
 on board the "Princess Alice" we found ourselves 
 locked out ! So we sat on the porch of the dock 
 house and wished for cold drinks and everything 
 else we couldn't have. We finally reached 
 Seattle, an hour late, but thankful to be there. 
 
 The New Washington is as good as any of our 
 hotels in little old New York and we certainly 
 appreciated its comforts. 
 
 We got an early start this a.m. and while M. 
 went down to pass the trunks at the Custom 
 House (which here is a mere formality), we 
 motored for two hours through the business 
 section, the residence quarter and miles on miles 
 of parks and boulevards. 
 
 Seattle is growing fast and will be a fine city 
 when completed. Clouds seemed to have broken 
 away and it was just cool enough and not too 
 cool for an open taxi. 
 
 We are now once more on our way, this time 
 by rail. The rain is pouring down again and 
 2 [7] 
 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 as we're told that it rains most of the time here 
 from the first of November to some time in 
 March, it is easy to understand why most trav- 
 elers go West in summer. Fortunately it held 
 off long enough to give us a good view of snow- 
 covered Mt. Rainier. We expect to reach Port- 
 land at 5 : 30 this afternoon and will try and get 
 accommodations on the Shasta Limited tomorrow 
 at 6:00 and reach San Francisco at 9:10 the 
 next night, Sunday. 
 
 February nineteenth. 
 
 If this country ever gets dried out I am sure 
 it would look attractive, but the rain is getting 
 on my nerves. Yesterday everything went 
 wrong. To begin with, we went to the wrong 
 hotel. The Carlton. It had nice bath-rooms 
 but that's all we could say for it. The rooms 
 were so small we had to go out into the hall to 
 turn around. Most of the people looked like 
 members of a second rate chorus and you always 
 felt, if you passed them in the hall or saw them 
 enter the dining-room, that they were about to 
 "do a turn." The table was past description. 
 
 Nothing was to be had on the " Shasta," in fact 
 we were told that there were twenty people will- 
 ing to stand up all night if only they might be 
 permitted to board her — the 7:45 p.m. had 
 
 [8] 
 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 nothing left but "uppers," but if we would 
 come back at 2 : 00 it was just possible we might 
 be able to have a drawing-room on the midnight 
 (leaving at 1:30 a.m.). 
 
 Every time we go into the house the sun comes 
 out and we no sooner go out than the rain comes 
 down! 
 
 We have given up wishing for the mackin- 
 toshes and umbrellas in the trunk in San Fran- 
 cisco and wander around in the wet as if such 
 things had never been invented. We decided if 
 we could not do anything else we could have 
 shampoos, so we looked up the Harper-system 
 representative, a Miss Pickett, who proved to 
 be quite human, promised to take us both in 
 the afternoon, told us where we could get a good 
 lunch and recommended a trolley-ride with a 
 view, to finish up the morning. The sun was 
 out when she told us, but by the time we reached 
 the place where the view ought to have been, 
 it was raining as never before and there was 
 nothing to be seen. However, it killed some 
 time and the lunch quite reminded me of our 
 escape to the "Antlers" from the "Accacia" 
 at Colorado Springs — do you remember? 
 
 Another trip to the Southern Pacific office 
 revealed the fact that a drawing-room had been 
 given up on the 7 : 45 and now, if we have good 
 
 [91 
 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 luck, we will reach San Francisco early Monday 
 morning. We sail at noon next day, so that it 
 doesn't give us much time, but it will have to do. 
 
 February twentieth. 
 Ste.ajviship Korea. 
 
 The trip down from Portland was very inter- 
 esting, particularly after we crossed the Cali- 
 fornia border. We had a wonderful view of Mt. 
 Shasta covered with snow, 14, 872 feet high, and 
 the Black Crater, 9,000 feet high, close by, 
 made a splendid foil. 
 
 Many of the fruit orchards were in blossom 
 and everything looked SpringJ^ It was noon 
 by the time we reached the Oakland ferry so we 
 went direct to the St. Francis where they gave 
 us a nice suite and a good lunch. 
 
 We found telegrams, books and letters waiting 
 for us and a big pile more of the latter at Cook's 
 office. As we had not had any, or even the pos- 
 sibility of getting any, for ten days, it was a treat. 
 We did a little shopping and after walking till 
 we were tired (which didn't take long with the 
 sudden change to summer weather) we rode up 
 hill and down on trolleys and finally out to Gol- 
 den Gate Park, arriving just in time for a glori- 
 ous sunset. 
 
 [10 1 
 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 
 
 We wanted to see a "show" in the evening, 
 but like all these Western cities so far, there 
 was nothing on but what we had already seen 
 or what sounded too dull to be preferred to bed. 
 
 After all, the latter was pretty attractive and 
 there were many letters to answer so we did not 
 much mind. 
 
 11 
 
II 
 
 THE PACIFIC 
 
 February twenty-fifth. 
 Steamship Korea. 
 WISH that you, who Hke sea voyages 
 could have enjoyed this one. There 
 have been many things that would 
 have interested you, specially the 
 people who are "odd." The first two or three 
 days were cloudy and windy, but not rough, and 
 now the sun is out and it is as warm as mid- 
 summer. 
 
 The days are uneventful. Ash Wednesday 
 we entirely forgot (good Episcopalians?) until 
 night. Next morning we were confronted with 
 "George's" picture and many flags, when we 
 went down to breakfast, and had a specially 
 good dinner in his honor. One day we had a 
 fire-drill and last night, after dark, passed our 
 first ship. 
 
 This morning being Sunday, we had service, 
 conducted by the Purser. Shades of my lessons 
 on the Prayer Book! What cared he for rub- 
 rics.'^ Why not jump around as the spirit sug- 
 gests and sit down for prayers, canticles, Glorias 
 and Creeds? Or suppose some members of the 
 
 [12] 
 
THE PACIFIC 
 
 congregation do prefer time and tunes of their 
 own for popular hymns? Our Kttle band of 
 missionaries, comprising two ministers (one 
 with wife and baby) one school-teacher, one 
 trained nurse, and two odd females, — all bound 
 for Korea, did not approve and are to have a 
 service of their own on deck at six o'clock. 
 It was the nurse who came nearest to breaking 
 up the singing so we feel it may be as unique as 
 the other and cannot miss it. 
 
 There are several Chinese celebrities on board, 
 among them a bank president from Hong Kong, 
 and the president of a steamship line. They 
 were both educated in the United States, one at 
 Yale and the other at Harvard, and wear 
 European dress, but their wives and children, 
 prancing around in Oriental splendor and layers 
 of gowns, are most interesting. 
 
 The crew and servants (excepting the steward- 
 ess) are all Chinese and tempt the passengers 
 most successfully with a variety of gambling 
 games on the "rear" deck. The boat is spot- 
 lessly clean and much freer from odors than most 
 trans-Atlantic liners, but the cabins are small 
 and the beds fit like straight- jackets. We have 
 a Philippino-string-orchestra which is very good, 
 and a Welte-Mignon on which the second 
 steward conducts concerts of his own once or 
 
 [13] 
 
THE PACIFIC 
 
 twice a day. We also have a couple of singers — 
 one of them with more ambition than voice, — 
 and a gentleman flutist. 
 
 A curious custom on the boat, which I sup- 
 pose is Chinese, is the serving of appetizers, 
 olives, salt fish, and the like on bits of bread and 
 butter on deck before the dressing bugle sounds, 
 instead of the usual afternoon tea, which can 
 always be obtained in the saloon. 
 
 At table we sit next the Captain (M. having 
 convinced the head steward that we are the 
 people) and on his other side is a pleasant con- 
 ventional spinster who plies him with questions 
 from "How many knots an hour?" and "What 
 day will we get in?" to "Should I ring for the 
 stewardess when I want to be hooked up or is 
 the cabin-boy used to doing it?" She and her 
 friends Mr. and Mrs. Bear claim to live in New 
 York, summer in Canada, and spend the winters 
 in travel. Lest any one should fail to grasp 
 that fact, Mrs. B. casually mentions that the 
 weather reminds her of Bermuda, Chinese 
 waiters of Arab servants on the Nile, green- 
 peppers of Key West, the music of this and that, 
 that we heard in London or Paris, and pine- 
 apples of the winter we spent in Florida. She 
 was funny at first, but finally grew annoying, 
 so now I beat her at her own game by discovering 
 
 [14] 
 
THE PACIFIC 
 
 quite casually all the places I have been to and 
 she has not. Instead of hating me, she pursues 
 me, and I regret to say that they are continuing 
 the trip with us on the Shinyo Maru after Hono- 
 lulu. We are due at the latter port at daybreak 
 tomorrow and are now having midsummer 
 weather and seeing flying-fish of the tropics. 
 
 15 
 
11 !llilllllll!lllllllllll!ll P 
 
 1 I 1 
 
 iil llllllillllllllllilllllllllli 1 
 
 III 
 
 AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 March sixth. 
 
 WANT to tell you something of 
 Honolulu, but hardly know where 
 to begin. This week has been like 
 a dream and I have been so enjoy- 
 ing the present every minute that I simply 
 could not bring myself to write more than a few 
 Easter post-cards. Now that we have left it 
 I no longer have that fear of "missing some- 
 thing" if I stop to write, but there was so much 
 there that was different, it seems impossible to 
 sum up my impressions in one letter. 
 
 As usual there were unpleasant features con- 
 nected with landing, such as being waked at 
 dawn, or thereabouts, and then kept waiting 
 for our breakfast until "inspection" was over. 
 Of course the doctor was late and then exam- 
 ined the crew and steerage first, while the rest 
 of us waited. All this was offset by the fact 
 that being still in the U. S. A. there were no 
 customs formalities to be gone through with. 
 
 We spied Sister Anne on the dock long before 
 we reached it. She had been waiting there 
 
 [161 
 
HAWAIIAN NATIVES 
 
 
 
 7x 
 
 
 [01 
 
 i i 1 ^^^i I 
 
 @ 
 
AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 since 7.00 a. m., poor soul (we landed at 9.00), 
 but was so glad to see some one from home 
 after her winter there that she acted as though 
 we had come all that way just to see her, and 
 took possession of us accordingly. We invited 
 her to dine with us or else come to lunch 
 next day, agreeing to telephone which as soon 
 as we had made our plans or decided whether 
 or no we would go across to the volcano. We 
 then piled ourselves and our belongings into a 
 hack and proceeded to drive out to Hotel 
 Moana on Waikiki Beach. The drive out was a 
 delight. So many new varieties of palms and 
 flowers and such a surprise after hearing as we 
 had so often that there were no flowers in Hono- 
 lulu. We afterwards discovered that that was 
 merely the popular way of saying that there 
 were no roses and chrysanthemums, everything 
 else abounded and there were many, to us, new 
 species. 
 
 There appears to be a kind of trust in hotels 
 and the hotel-keepers are very indifferent and 
 independent. That may be only at the height 
 of the season. The great carnival and floral 
 parade takes place every year on February 22nd 
 and as this was only the 26th the crowd had not 
 had time to thin out and all the hotels and board- 
 ing houses were full. We had had some inti- 
 
 [191 
 
AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 mation of that before leaving the boat, but as 
 I had written for rooms a month before leaving 
 New York, we were much surprised to be told 
 that there was nothing for us and that we could 
 consider ourselves very fortunate in that they 
 had that morning succeeded in securing a room 
 for us at The Young, in town ! 
 
 The Moana was most attractive, with a lovely 
 garden, and charmingly located on the edge of 
 the water and within sight of the surf-riders' 
 favorite haunt, so we hated to return to the 
 town. But rumors kept reaching us of the 
 hard luck that our fellow passengers on the 
 Korea were experiencing and it seemed wise to 
 make sure of what we could have. The Young 
 is a very citified hotel, but the table is good 
 and there is a pretty palm-garden on the roof. 
 Incidentally it is free from mosquitoes, which 
 the other is not. Our one room proved to be 
 a suite of bath, bedroom and parlor in which 
 we could be quite comfortable except that the 
 former occupants were still in possession and 
 remained until five o'clock in the afternoon, 
 when they departed on the Korea. It would 
 not have mattered so much had we not come 
 ashore in winter clothes and found ourselves in 
 the midst of summer weather. Our heavy hats 
 were really oppressive and to know that we 
 
 [201 
 
HAWAIIAN RICE FIELDS 
 
 \B} 
 
 
 
AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 had trunks full of clothes right there and no 
 place to change in, was truly aggravating. We 
 spent most of the day trolley-riding, occasion- 
 ally stopping at the "Fern" on Emma Street 
 kept by two English girls, for ice-cream or 
 soda-water which tasted like home and was 
 most refreshing. 
 
 Our pursuing angel was not bothered by a 
 change of hotel. She ran us to earth before 
 lunch or at least found Marie at the hotel and 
 left word that she would be back again directly 
 when she took us for a beautiful trolley ride. 
 She also dined with us that evening and enthu- 
 siastically accepted an invitation to motor 
 around the island with us next day. 
 
 Although the roads were in some places far 
 from good, and we had many slight showers, 
 called "liquid sunshine," not hard enough or of 
 sufficient duration to do much damage, it was 
 without exception the most beautiful automobile 
 ride I have ever taken anywhere. The scenery 
 was as varied as it was beautiful. 
 
 We stopped for a moment opposite the royal 
 burying ground and had the graves of cele- 
 brated Hawaiian kings and queens pointed out 
 to us, then on up to Pali, a rocky promontory 
 so high and so exposed to the winds that we 
 could hardly keep our feet when we got out to 
 3 [231 
 
AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 enjoy the view and could barely hear each other 
 speak. The spot is one of historic interest; 
 the Oahuan army was there driven over the 
 cliff to instant death hundreds of feet below by 
 King Kamehameha, as a tablet in the rock 
 assures you, and the view is beyond description, 
 very extensive and with such variety and bril- 
 liancy of color both on land and sea that if I 
 had been shown a painting of it before seeing 
 the original I know I should have thought the 
 artist crazy. 
 
 A long train of pack-mules, with tinkling 
 bells, had to be gotten out of our way with much 
 difficulty as we resumed our ride and we wound 
 in and out in a most marvelous manner, the 
 descent being much more rapid than the ascent. 
 Our chauffeur was an American, born and 
 brought up on the island, very chatty and ami- 
 able, ready to stop for snap-shots, fruit, or flowers 
 that took our fancy and was anxious to answer 
 as many of our questions as was possible. He 
 reminded me a little of Buzaglo, our Spanish 
 courier whom you probably remember, and 
 was as free and intimate as was possible without 
 growing fresh. When he explained to me vari- 
 ous customs that the Chinese practised among 
 themselves but "would not think of in the case 
 of inviting either me or himself to dinner," 
 
 [24] 
 

 THE WATER BUFFALO 
 
 [£] 
 
 @1 
 
AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 his manner was as naive and unconscious as 
 possible. My companions were much amused 
 and a trifle shocked at his occasional profanity, 
 but he meant so well that it would take a stony- 
 hearted person to find fault with him. He had 
 had many interesting experiences, been one of 
 the guard who ran up the American flag at the 
 time of the revolution on the island and had 
 also been in San Francisco at the time of the 
 earthquake. His son was born there just nine 
 days before and he had had more than his fill of 
 excitement moving his wife out of the line of 
 the fire. 
 
 Soon after passing Pali, we came in sight of the 
 famous waterfalls coming down over rocks so 
 high in air that the wind catches the water and 
 blows it up in clouds. Then there were water- 
 bufl^alo plowing in the field, sometimes a buffalo 
 colt running along behind; rice-fields completely 
 under water and coolies standing knee-deep 
 planting each separate stalk in a hillock by itself 
 in neat rows; Japanese women washing on the 
 edge of a stream, a baby tied to each back; 
 fields of banana trees; and glorious breakers, 
 some dashing up on the "barking sands." 
 
 Occasionally we passed a school and tried to 
 select the different types as the children ran out 
 for recess. This was not easy; besides native 
 
 [271 
 
AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 Hawaiians, Chinese, Japs, Koreans, Portuguese, 
 Philippinos and Americans, and those of mixed 
 ancestry. The people all inter-marrj^ (except 
 Hawaiians and Japs who apparently do not care 
 for each other) and the children present wonder- 
 ful mixtures of distinguishing features. Quite 
 the cleverest and finest are the children of 
 Chinese and Hawaiians but they are all numerous 
 enough to satisfy even Theodore himself. 
 
 We stopped so often and "wasted" so much 
 time in our fear of missing something, that we 
 were way behind our schedule and when we had 
 a puncture were glad of the excuse to stop and 
 eat the lunch we had brought with us. It was 
 about three o'clock when we finally reached 
 Haleiwa where most people lunch. We only 
 stopped long enough for lemonade and light 
 refreshment — oil and water — for the machine; 
 and hurried on. The afternoon's ride was quite 
 different. We left the sea, wandered through 
 many sugar plantations, some very large ones 
 with mills and complete equipment. They all 
 had miles of track running at different angles 
 through the fields. As they cut the cane it was 
 piled in freight cars and run out to the mill 
 without rehandling. Then there were pine- 
 apple plantations, cotton-groves and the usual 
 variety of palms — date, cocoanut, royal, trav- 
 
 [281 
 
AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 eler, bread-fruit, papaias, and many others 
 whose names I either have not been able to dis- 
 cover or have forgotten. We returned through 
 Manalo Park, a private estate, but after a second 
 puncture were too late to see anj'thing. Pearl 
 Harbor, named for the pearl oysters found 
 there, is on this side of the island and very 
 lovely. A curious custom in vogue here is to 
 fence in a pond, two or three hundred feet 
 across, on the water's edge, and then catch 
 quantities of small fish and put them into the 
 pond to grow up and fatten. 
 
 We were very tired when we got back, but 
 had enjoyed ourselves so fully that Alice declared 
 she would like to repeat it every day of our 
 stay and I feel doubtful about my ability to do 
 it justice even had we done so. The trip costs 
 from thirty-five to forty dollars, which was a 
 good reason for not repeating too often. How- 
 ever, I am told that one can make arrangements 
 through an agency, if one is not particular as 
 to whom one goes with, for six dollars a head. 
 The trolley rides are many and beautiful and 
 we spent a part of each day, particularly the 
 warm period, riding in this more plebeian fashion. 
 The trip to Manoa is one of the most charming. 
 There were many relatives of the Jones 
 family here who did much for our enjoyment. 
 
 [291 
 
AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Algernon Binks, who live in Hono- 
 lulu, called for us one evening and took us for a 
 delightful motor ride in the moonlight, which I 
 shall always remember. A lunch at the "Sea- 
 Side" at Waikiki and another at the " Colonial, '* 
 where I hope to come and live some day, were 
 also very pleasant. 
 
 Then there was an excursion through the 
 American Can Company's factory, and the pine- 
 apple cannery next door. These were most 
 interesting. 
 
 A morning in the Bishop museum where we 
 became familiar with the early life on the island ; 
 the way the natives made the Tapa or Kapa 
 from the bark of Maaloa, Wauke and Poulu 
 trees which served for dress material, tent cover- 
 ing, carpet, table cloths, mosquito-netting, or 
 anything that they required, according to 
 its strength, size, thickness or elaborateness of 
 design. We also saw the various wooden pigs — 
 long pig shaped dishes with feet, on which a 
 whole pig was placed and buried in the ground 
 while cooking — kalibasch for eating poi; finger 
 bowls, with partitions made of scrapers (poi 
 sticks to the fingers badly), and many other im- 
 plements made of Hau and Koa wood. The poi 
 used to be made by hand from the root of the 
 Tora in a big earthen bowl with a stone mallet, 
 
 [301 
 
AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 but is now prepared in huge factories and still 
 eaten by the natives three times a day. 
 
 Another day we went out to the aquarium 
 which is well worth a visit. Not large, but 
 containing a great variety of native fish of color 
 and design past belief. Many of them are good 
 to eat and as the meats are mostly poor (except 
 pork, which I never found more delicious) we 
 practically lived on fish and fruits. The latter 
 are endless. Strawberry bananas and ice-cream 
 bananas, besides the usual varieties which are 
 particularly good: pomegranates; water-lemons, 
 which were strange and not bad; guavas; papaos, 
 which we did not care for; besides oranges, figs, 
 tangerines and many other fruits that we have 
 at home. Pine-apple juice is iced and served 
 as a drink, which was new to me and very re- 
 freshing in that hot climate. 
 
 Another afternoon we walked up to the top 
 of the Punch Bowl, the crater of an extinct 
 volcano, from which there is an admirable view. 
 We made the ascent by means of a zig-zag path 
 up the side, but coming back thought we would 
 be funny and try the steep trail down the face 
 of the rock. We were lame for two days after- 
 wards. 
 
 We spent one whole day waiting for the Man- 
 churia with Agnes M. on board. She came ashore 
 
 [31] 
 
AN AMERICAN TERRITORY 
 
 and dined and spent the night with us and we 
 had such a good visit that it was well worth 
 the wait. 
 
 Sunday we attended an uninteresting service 
 in St. Andrews Cathedral (not yet completed) 
 and listened to a poor sermon by one of the 
 canons. 
 
 I cannot close without a mention of the Bou- 
 gainvillea vines which are of two beautiful colors, 
 red and purple, and grow to enormous size, 
 some large enough to bury three whole trees. 
 Hibiscus is so easy to cultivate that it is used as 
 a hedge and flowers profusely. Poinsettia and 
 Night-blooming-cirius are so plentiful as to be 
 a feature. The Royal Poinciana were just 
 starting to flower. 
 
 Two things are left for next trip — the excur- 
 sion, 15 hours each way in a boat, to the famous 
 volcano Kilanea on the island of Hawaii, and 
 learning to ride a surf -board. 
 
 32 
 
IV 
 
 ON TO JAPAN 
 
 March eleventh. 
 S. S. Shinyo Maru, Toyo Kisen Katsha. 
 HERE is a pretty custom in vogue in 
 Honolulu that I have never seen 
 practised elsewhere, of presenting 
 one's departing friends with leis or 
 long garlands, sometimes strings of beads or 
 shells, but much more usually made of heads or 
 petals of flowers. Men as well as women receive 
 and wear them either around the neck or hat 
 — usually both. To see a big, dignified Ameri- 
 can trying to appear natural with about a dozen 
 leis around his neck is a rare treat. Every one 
 we knew in Honolulu was down to see us off with 
 candy or leis so we were "right in it" if we were 
 many thousand miles from home. Some cele- 
 brated Chinese and Japanese were on board and 
 all their compatriots were down with flowers and 
 flags to wave them God-speed and the band 
 played "Aloha" as we left the dock. Truly an 
 experience to remember. 
 
 This boat is much bigger and newer than the 
 Korea, in fact this is only her fourth voyage. 
 
 [33] 
 
ON TO JAPAN 
 
 Our stateroom, on the main deck, is fully three 
 times as big as the one we had between San 
 Francisco and Honolulu and the beds and other 
 furnishings much more comfortable. We were 
 so delighted with the change that we thought of 
 trying to come home on her, but it took very few 
 days to change that. The table is wretched and 
 the service not to be compared with the Korea. 
 A good many of the passengers on the Korea 
 came aboard with us and we all felt like old 
 friends. I do not know if they improve on closer 
 acquaintance or by comparison with those 
 already on board, but we certainly like them 
 better. The crew, cabin boys and most of the 
 oflBcers are Japanese and not to be compared 
 with the Chinese as servants. The Captain is 
 English, very anxious to be social and do and 
 say the right thing, though nervous in manner. 
 He goes the rounds among the passengers fre- 
 quently, stopping for a few words with each 
 group. Always begins, "very nice weather 
 we're having, yes, yes, quite delightful" — unless 
 it happens to be raining, in which case he varies 
 it with "quite a bit of wet weather, but then we 
 can't expect it to be fine all the time," — and then 
 he goes on to refer to the deck sports, says how 
 much he thinks they help in making the time 
 pass pleasantlj^ and asks how one is progressing 
 
 [34 1 
 
ON TO JAPAN 
 
 in the shuffle-board tournament, no matter 
 how many times one happens to have explained 
 to him that one does not play ! Next a pleasant 
 reference to the state of your health and a hope 
 that you are coming down to "Tiff en," — as a 
 matter of fact all but two or three come down to 
 every meal, but what difference does that make? 
 The Purser and Doctor are both American. 
 The former the coy, would-be-funny variety 
 and quite impossible though unique, the latter 
 very young, on his first trip with this ship, 
 but gentlemanly and agreeable. 
 
 Never have I been on a ship where there was 
 such a constant and violent effort made to 
 entertain the passengers. I think the Captain 
 is largely responsible. The first afternoon he 
 invited all the ladies to the upper forward deck 
 (reserved for the officers) for tea, while the men 
 played base-ball. Next day, Thursday (we 
 sailed Tuesday) the whole afternoon was given 
 up to deck-sports, races and the like, by the 
 crew, with a dance in the evening. Friday 
 afternoon, deck sports by passengers, and in the 
 evening a moving picture show. There was 
 not any Saturday because we crossed the 180th 
 parallel and had to knock off a day. The Cap- 
 tain on the Korea explained to us that it was 
 the only place where we could go to sleep per- 
 
 [35] 
 
ON TO JAPAN 
 
 fectly sober Friday night and wake up Sunday 
 morning. We had a nice service Sunday a.m. 
 conducted by an American clergyman who had 
 Hved sixteen years in Japan — I think he was 
 born there — which accounted for his pecuhar 
 mannerisms. The only other diversion for Sun- 
 day was a newspaper at every one's place at the 
 table — consisting of about ten news items, ac- 
 quired by wireless, and the rest Japanese 
 advertisements. Mondaj^ afternoon there was 
 a ladies' base-ball game, very diverting, and in 
 the evening the inevitable concert, with some 
 unusual and amusing features; oddest of all, 
 no collection. 
 
 Tuesday was too wet for entertainments, but 
 Wednesday afternoon there was a base-ball 
 game between ladies and the men playing left 
 handed, and in the evening a prestidigitator. 
 The Captain always opens these entertainments 
 with "Ladies and Gentlemen: I'm sure that 
 before starting our entertainment you'll be glad 
 to hear that the barometer is rising, the stars 
 are out and that we are likely to have a fine 
 day tomorrow." He then tells a poor story or 
 makes a few "funny" remarks and the show 
 is open. There is a shuffle-board tournament 
 as a continuous performance to fill in the chinks. 
 
 Just now there is a pretty authentic rumor 
 [36] 
 
ON TO JAPAN 
 
 that as a result of the good weather, calm seas 
 and favorable winds we have been blessed with, 
 we are likely to land late tomorrow, Friday- 
 afternoon, instead of Saturday, when we are due. 
 Never has that happened to me before and I 
 can hardly believe it will come true, but then I 
 could not have believed when we started that 
 nine days could pass so quickly and pleasantly. 
 
 37] 
 
V 
 
 YOKOHAINIA 
 
 Sunday, St. Patrick's Day. 
 Yokohama. 
 E did land on the fifteenth, but late in 
 the evening. The last day was bit- 
 ter cold, rainy and rough, and we 
 were glad enough to get ashore. 
 These boats usually anchor in the harbor and send 
 passengers ashore in small boats to avoid dock 
 charges, but owing to the quantity of freight to be 
 landed here and at Kobe, and the fact that the 
 mail contract necessitates paying a heavy fine if 
 the boats leave behind schedule time, the Captain 
 received orders to make haste and proceed at 
 once to the dock. It was a fascinating sight 
 to watch the jabbering coolies make us fast. 
 They looked like gnomes, with their mushroom 
 hats, blue shirts something like a French stu- 
 dent's blouse only covered with white hiero- 
 glyphics, skin tight trousers and sandal-covered 
 feet. Bright paper lanterns flitted about from 
 group to group and the picturesqueness of the 
 scene more than made up for the fact that their 
 methods were a little slower than ours at home. 
 
 [38] 
 
YOKOHAMA 
 
 There was nothing slow about the way we 
 were whisked off the minute we had stepped 
 into 'rikshas. All was so dark and still, just 
 the patter-patter of our two-footed horses' 
 feet, their "hai" as something got in their way 
 and an occasional tinkle, like a bicycle bell, 
 when the need was urgent. All the houses 
 seemed closed, and no one about except our 
 fellow-passengers, hurrying in various directions 
 so rapidly that friends lost sight of each other 
 and parties became separated. We were ex- 
 pected at the Oriental Palace, where we finally 
 drew up, and were well taken care of. Two 
 double connecting rooms, with bath, for twenty- 
 five yen daily, maid four yen. The proprietors 
 are English and French and the table and service 
 (the latter limited conversationally) as good as 
 any hotel in France. Evian water seemed like 
 a long lost brother and worth its weight in gold, 
 which it nearly cost — one yen (fifty cents) a bottle. 
 The Japanese line carries only charged waters, 
 but Pacific Mail Steamers have still Poland. 
 
 The cold wet weather is a disappointment, 
 but nothing can really mar the charm. 
 
 Yokohama has become very modern and much 
 
 more Europeanized than I expect to find the 
 
 other cities, and there is not much to be done 
 
 in the way of sight-seeing. Yesterday morn- 
 
 4 [39] 
 
YOKOHAMA 
 
 ing our first thought was to go to Cook's for 
 letters and were disappointed that there were so 
 few — it is hard to remember that it takes them 
 nearly as long as it did us to get here. 
 
 We then took 'rikshas, rode around the town 
 through the Benten Dori, the best shopping 
 street, down Theater Street and back another 
 way. By then we wanted to try our feet and 
 visited all the tailor and dressmaking shops in 
 search of wonderful embroideries but were 
 disappointed. 
 
 In the afternoon it looked less showery so we 
 rode out to some Shinto shrines behind the rail- 
 road station where on a clear day is to be ob- 
 tained the best view of Fugi and the town. 
 Our coolies smilingly deposited us at the foot 
 of the hundred or more steps leading up to the 
 shrines and then accompanied us up as guides. 
 Part way up as we stopped for breath was a tea 
 house and a pretty geisha girl invited us in. 
 Among the shrines themselves was a large picnic 
 party, children from a school in Tokyo. Their 
 costumes made them look like so many bright 
 plumed birds and their happy shouts proved that 
 their play -ground was not exercising a depress- 
 ing influence. The "sights" of Yokohama (ex- 
 cept outside excursions for which the weather 
 was not propitious) being exhaused, we wandered 
 
 [40] 
 
YOKOHAMA 
 
 afoot through some of the back streets and had 
 a most interesting time. Here the shops and 
 trades were thoroughly native, carried on for 
 natives, and the atmosphere was very pleasing 
 and neither smelly nor dirty. 
 
 This A.M. we went to the Anglican church, 
 very like most English churches on the conti- 
 nent of Europe, heard a sermon that might have 
 been preached by one of our ex-East side curates, 
 and came home in a downpour of rain which has 
 kept up ever since. The click-click of passing 
 pedestrians is constant — the deeper the mud, 
 the higher heeled the getas apparently — and we 
 find much amusement in the sight of hundreds 
 of oil-paper umbrellas as protection against rain. 
 The day after a rain-storm the streets are always 
 lined with these opened out to dry. 
 
 From our windows we have watched many 
 perilous trips to and from large boats in sampans, 
 and finally, with no regrets, saw the Shinyo 
 Maru steam slowly out in a dense fog. We leave 
 tomorrow morning at 9 : 05 by rail for Kobe, 
 at the warmer end of the island, and are due to 
 arrive there at 9 : 20 p.m. In that way we are 
 saved an uncomfortable thirty-six hours and 
 really arrive sooner. We long for warm weather 
 and cherry blossoms. 
 
 [411 
 
YOKOHAMA 
 
 March twentieth. 
 
 A glorious sunshiny morning was a gratifying 
 sight and the long 'riksha ride to the far end 
 of town and the other station was full of novelty 
 and interest. Some of the signs are rather 
 unique, as: "Ladies' shampooing, hair-cutting 
 and shaving!" "Passengers keep to your left!" 
 
 The one first class car was so full, and con- 
 tained so many children at both ends, that we 
 promptly took possession of the centre compart- 
 ment which was unoccupied, only to be told 
 that it was not permitted for any one but the 
 Empress or some member of her family to ride 
 in it, but just carried along "in case" — When we 
 insisted they told us that a Japanese lady of 
 high rank had already asked and been refused 
 and that it cost six times the regular first class 
 fare (11 yen 20 sen) per person! We got out. 
 The two ends are about as long each as one of 
 our old-fashioned trolley cars, seats facing, and 
 about room enough for three people between 
 each set of arms, nine on a side. It did not seem 
 so bad when we got settled, as all but ourselves 
 and a couple of Englishmen sat on their feet 
 and the children kept quiet and "stayed put." 
 There was a very good dining car on, which served 
 lunch at 11:30 and dinner at 5:00, but the 
 natives mostly eat in the car — and all the time. 
 
 [42 1 
 
EL 
 
 DINING CAR. 
 DINNER SS READY. 
 
 CME ALS A LA CARTE, ) 
 
 s 
 
 r 
 
 n 
 
 
 tt 
 
 J 
 
 
 * 
 
 DINING CAR MENU 
 
YOKOHAMA 
 
 One or another would send the train-boy out for a 
 glass-towel full of manderins, a teapot, or 
 pair of lunch boxes at nearly every station. 
 A cup comes with the teapot, both of which 
 you may keep or throw away when you get 
 through. Tea and all, it costs 3 sen (a cent and 
 a half). One of the lunch boxes contains rice, 
 cooked without salt, the other everything, 
 including cooked and raw fish, seaweed and nuts. 
 Women and men smoked continuously when not 
 eating, their tiny pipes containing one pinch of 
 tobacco, making a chorus of rat-tap-taps, as 
 they were emptied and refilled. 
 
 The road winds in and out through thousands 
 of tiny gardens and seemingly toy villages and 
 rice-fields; then suddenly flashes out to the 
 water's edge, the latter sparkling and jumping in 
 the sunlight, back again through pink blossomed 
 peach orchards, and rice fields, with their irri- 
 gation ditches and water-wheels and picturesque 
 coolies, and back of all on both sides, stunning 
 mountains with red soil set off by tea bushes 
 and camphor and monkey trees, here in dark 
 shadow under fleecy clouds, again bright in 
 high light under a rift. Toward sundown 
 it grew colder and we were shocked by sight of a 
 snow storm. 
 
 Soon after nine, very tired and *'full up" of 
 [431 
 
YOKOHAMA 
 
 new sensations, we reached the Sannomiya sta- 
 tion which is nearer the foreign settlement than 
 Kobe proper. The Tor is very new, has a bath- 
 room with every bedroom, but a rather poor 
 table. It is beautifully located at the top of a 
 long hill and is making a wonderful Japanese 
 garden. The hill is no disadvantage because 
 the distances in Kobe are not great and 'rikshas 
 cheap — a few sen an hour or one yen, fifty sen 
 a day — seventy -five cents in our money. Single 
 rooms with bath each, were eight yen a day, 
 maid six yen. 
 
 44 
 
TEMPLE IN PREPARATION FOR A "MATSURI" 
 
8 ® ^ ,,l 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 iC, 
 
 m 
 
 I *« ^ Ji! A ini I 
 
 THEATER BILL AND RETURN CHECK 
 
VI 
 
 THE INLAND SEA 
 
 EXT morning we were fortunate 
 enough to find preparations for a 
 "matsuri," with flags and other 
 brilliant decorations, at the Nanko 
 Temple — Shinto in memory of Kusunoki Mosas- 
 hige, hero of the war of Chrysanthemums. We 
 then went on to the Shinkoji Temple with its co- 
 lossal bronze Buddha — very interesting inside 
 and out. The visitor is allowed to go in him with- 
 out removing shoes. Both of these are in Hiogo, 
 but Hiogo and Kobe are so welded together as to 
 be really one town. Returning we stopped at the 
 beautiful Numobiki Falls which come down a 
 dark ravine, but the visitor is pestered to death 
 by sellers and manufacturers of Damascine, sat- 
 suma, cloisonne and bamboo, who fall upon him 
 in the street like so many raving wolves and, 
 reminding him of Niagara, cause him to wonder 
 if all falls have the same effect on tradesmen. 
 
 Kobe, like most Japanese towns, has its 
 Theater Street, and in the afternoon we had 
 our first experience in attending the play. 
 
 [471 
 
THE INLAND SEA 
 
 Lest we miss something we took a guide, 
 having to pay him for all day four yen or two 
 dollars. His English was so poor as to make it 
 an effort to understand him and while he tried 
 to be as unobjectionable as possible, a leopard 
 cannot change his spots. We were specially 
 privileged and not obliged to remove our shoes, 
 but they were well wiped off before we were 
 allowed to enter. Then up a narrow stairway 
 and into a box, literally, about three feet square, 
 with a one foot partition all around. They 
 brought us chairs, but we found the floor much 
 more comfortable — also, we liked doing the 
 proper thing. The ushers supplied us with 
 cushions, and hibachi, which was very acceptable 
 that cold afternoon, and from time to time fresh 
 relays of tea. Men and women alike all remove 
 shoes, but keep on their hats if they prefer, here 
 and also in church. 
 
 As with us, the second best places are down 
 stairs in front of the stage, but divided also into 
 boxes, smaller than those in the "diamond 
 horseshoe." These partitions reminded me of 
 the divisions in an egg box, some are two or 
 three inches wide and serve as entrances and 
 exits for the audience as well as the attendants. 
 
 Performances begin at two or three in the 
 afternoon and continue till eleven at night, 
 
 [48] 
 
NUMOBIKI FALLS, KOBE 
 
 [a] 
 
 
 
THE INLAND SEA 
 
 so many meals must be partaken of. Poorer 
 people bring theirs with them. 
 
 Leaving our trunks behind at the hotel, to be 
 sent to the station to meet us as we pass through 
 Kobe on our way back to Kyoto, in response to 
 a telegram — which, by the way, worked very 
 satisfactorily — we took a 9 : 30 a. m. train from 
 Sannomiya to Onomichi, arriving at the latter 
 place about 4 : 30 after a comfortable and ex- 
 tremely pretty ride. As the natives all "squat" 
 on the seats, or lie if there is room, they are 
 made unusually wide and do not fit our European 
 backs and positions. Therefore a ride of a few 
 hours is to be preferred to all day trips. Here 
 we had our first experience of eating native 
 lunch, with chop-sticks, enjoyed it, were much 
 impressed with our own dexterity, and surprised 
 to find the meal so tasty and satisfying. We 
 have been unable to find Evian, or any other 
 uncharged water since leaving Yokohama, but 
 find that we can drink tan san and are learning 
 not to mind it. That can be obtained every- 
 where. 
 
 Hamakichi's Hotel is thoroughly Japanese, 
 but we were made very comfortable and were 
 convulsed with laughter most of the time that 
 we were alone and dared indulge in mirth. We 
 were provided with the usual "cotton-bags" 
 
 [511 
 
THE INLAND SEA 
 
 to tie over our shoes instead of having to remove 
 them, — which was fortunate as the weather con- 
 tinued cold — then led up a steep staircase of 
 polished wood, through a big square room 
 (apparently a banqueting hall for state occa- 
 sions), across a balcony, and through a sliding 
 panel into a charming room, which could be 
 open on two sides if so desired. It was almost 
 hanging over the Inland Sea, was carpeted with 
 beautiful matting and absolutely devoid of 
 furniture save for the inevitable kakemono 
 (hanging scroll) in the tokonoma or alcove, 
 one small table six inches from the ground and 
 in one corner a beautiful chest of baby-drawers 
 with a glass on top — intended as a dressing 
 table, but looking more like a cabinet. Half a 
 dozen pretty, chattering and giggly maidens 
 quickly supplied us with cushions on which to 
 sit and things resembling padded sleeve boards 
 to lounge against. We were offered European 
 chairs — nailed to flat pieces of wood to protect 
 the floors — but scorned them as being out of 
 keeping and spoiling the effect. 
 
 Next we were each presented with a Hibachi 
 or portable charcoal fire and finally tea and cake. 
 
 As the sun was setting rapidly we feared to 
 lose our opportunity for some picturesque snap- 
 shots and hurried out to walk. Had we been 
 
 [521 
 
THE INLAND SEA 
 
 the first Europeans on the island or the fore- 
 runners of a travehng circus we could not have 
 created more excitement. Children everywhere 
 stared, exclaimed, called their friends and then 
 followed till we had a procession quite equal to 
 the Pied Piper's, only ours was joined by grown 
 men and women as well. In and out through 
 back streets and alleyways, each more charming 
 than the last, till we finally reached the foot of 
 the long flight of stone steps leading to the 
 series of Temples. Here our admirers fell away 
 but when near the top, we wandered into some 
 gardens and finally stumbled on a pretty tea 
 house, we quickly became the center of a 
 smaller, but equally interested group. Back in 
 the town we acquired a larger escort than 
 before and when the Dynamite Bomb began 
 winking at the children they grew so excited 
 that we feared every moment we might be con- 
 fronted with the fire department and were glad 
 to take refuge in the hotel only to find them 
 grouped under our windows and so noisy in their 
 curiosity that we finally drew all the screens and 
 my press agent showed herself in the window of 
 another room as a counter attraction. She 
 proved uninteresting and they quickly dispersed. 
 We had a delicious dinner of fried fish, roast 
 chicken, boiled potatoes and toast and fruit, all 
 
 [531 
 
THE INLAND SEA 
 
 perfectly cooked. Coffee is the one weak spot, 
 but we always carry a small can of "George 
 Washington," and boiling water appears imme- 
 diately when one says "o-yu." 
 
 When we expressed a desire for rest, one of the 
 wall screens was thrust aside and disclosed a 
 large closet divided into shelves, stacked high 
 with "futons" or very thick quilts, and more 
 of the flat cushions we were sitting on. Spot- 
 lessly clean, unhemmed sheets appeared from 
 nowhere and very soon there was a warm, soft 
 bed spread out on the floor in two corners of 
 the room and another next door for the "Yama 
 san" — though why she could not share our 
 room with us is still a mystery to them! 
 
 We ordered our breakfast for 6 : 30 next morn- 
 ing as our boat, one of the Japanese mail steam- 
 ers, was to leave at 8 : 00 and we wanted another 
 walk through the town before starting. It was 
 well we did for the maid who had taken our 
 orders overslept and the others refused to wake 
 her. We got up ourselves at 6 : 00 performed a 
 hurried toilet on the front porch behind a 
 bamboo awning, and by dint of much conversa- 
 tion and argument finally attained to an appe- 
 tizing breakfast about 7:30! Our whole bill for 
 the night and three meals for three people was 
 eleven yen or five dollars and a half, and a 
 
 [54] 
 
ONOMICHI FROM THE BOAT 
 
THE INLAND SEA 
 
 Japanese would probably have paid about one 
 third that amount. The boat-landing was only 
 a few minutes walk from the hotel, so we piled 
 our bags on a hand-car — or rather it was done 
 for us — and filed along in procession, once more 
 putting a stop to all the regular business of the 
 day. 
 
 The Inland Sea is very beautiful as are also 
 the surrounding hills and the many islands, but 
 we found our boat much too popular with 
 second and third class passengers, the former 
 sharing all the privileges accorded first class 
 except that our luggage was placed in a cabin 
 (we would have shared the same fate if we had 
 submitted) and a blanket was spread for us on 
 the hard wooden bench. High winds and a 
 constant shower of soot tried our tempers and 
 endurance and many stops to load or unload 
 freight and pilgrims from bobbing sampans were 
 at first amusing, but soon became tedious. A 
 genuine Japanese lunch, served to us without 
 extra charge in the officers' saloon, was a pleasing 
 diversion, and we thoroughly enjoyed the im- 
 pression made on the cabin-boy who served us. 
 He stopped to enjoy our manipulation of the 
 chop-sticks but stayed to admire. 
 
 It was with a feeling of much relief and a 
 certainty of having obtained more than our 
 
 [571 
 
THE INLAND SEA 
 
 money's worth (2 yen 20 sen each) that we 
 finally stumbled down the ladder into a waiting 
 sampan at six o'clock (the high winds had 
 caused about an hour's delay) and the tide 
 being low we were rowed what seemed to us 
 miles along the shore before we finally made a 
 landing at the Miyajima Hotel's new dock. 
 We had intended going to the "Maples," a 
 native hotel back of the Temple and highly 
 recommended by friends, but the boat men 
 either didn't understand us or didn't want to. 
 We stopped at the Miyajima to ask our way, 
 but the garden looked so pretty in the half 
 light pouring from the windows of the dining- 
 room, and the idea of stumbling along in the 
 dark in search of rest and food was so depress- 
 ing that we decided that this was an instance 
 of the bird in the hand being worth two in the 
 bush, and gave up the chase. 
 
 The Miyajima is under the same management 
 as the Mikado, but new, ambitious, and ex- 
 pensive, and with cooking that aims to be 
 European, but is not anything in particular. 
 
 We had a good night's rest, however, and set 
 out in the morning full of enthusiasm to see 
 the sights. 
 
 The only disappointment in store for us was 
 that we could not remain for life. "One of the 
 
 [581 
 
^ 
 
 fe a » 
 
 4 « fl2 ^ ^ ^ 
 
 HOTEL BILL 
 
THE INLAND SEA 
 
 garden spots of the Earth" as a title does not 
 half do justice to Miyajima. Every foot of 
 ground is beautiful and at every turn a new 
 view delights the eye. The old Torii sometimes 
 on dry land, again with its feet in the water, is 
 different from any other in Japan; the temple is 
 charming and full of unusual interests, historical 
 and otherwise. The sacred crows, the tame 
 deer that eat out of your hand, the white 
 horse which belongs to the goddess of the 
 island and which you are allowed to feed, for 
 a consideration, but not to touch, the innumer- 
 able peach, plum and cherry trees and the 
 fascinating shops and booths where toys and 
 other trifles are so cheap that it seems extrava- 
 gant to leave anything behind, were all be- 
 wilderingly alluring. 
 
 One could be busy every moment for a week 
 doing the various things supplied for the amuse- 
 ment of the traveler and pilgrim. One day 
 could be delightfully spent climbing, or being 
 carried in a chair swung between two poles, to 
 the top of the mountain ; another in accompany- 
 ing a priest in a sam pan to the haunt of the 
 sacred pigeons with food for these beautiful 
 birds. 
 
 For the sum of three yen, a priest will have 
 every stone lantern on the island — and they are 
 
 [59] 
 
THE INLAND SEA 
 
 legion — lighted at night, and the view of 
 Miyajima thus Hghted is something that can be 
 duplicated nowhere in the world. 
 
 With great regret we boarded the distressingly 
 new and up-to-date electric launch which is the 
 pride of our hotel, at 1 : 30 and crossed to the 
 Miyajima railroad station, another beautiful 
 spot. In the course of an hour our train ap- 
 peared, crowded with natives and Englishmen 
 and Americans on their way from homes in 
 China and the Philippines for a sight-seeing and 
 shopping tour in Japan. We enjoyed the scenery 
 along the edge of the sea much more from the 
 car window than we had from the boat, but the 
 troubles the through passengers had obtaining 
 sufficient berths, holding them when once ob- 
 tained and finally in getting them made up, 
 convinced us that day travel was best on land, 
 as quickly as a peep into the cabins had, that 
 it was best on the water. At each station we 
 took on one more passenger than got off and 
 always there seemed to be "just room" till at 
 Kobe a whole troop of actors with their many 
 admirers — fortunately the latter remained be- 
 hind — poured into the car till we could hardly 
 see or breathe. After waking all the babies and 
 exposing them to pneumonia while they bade 
 their friends farewell, they finally settled into 
 
 [601 
 
THE INLAND SEA 
 
 the dining car and the few remaining chinks in 
 the sleeper; 12:30 was never more welcome 
 and after a half hour 'riksha ride we were 
 thankful to be let into the Kyoto Hotel by a 
 sleepy porter who finally woke a chamber-boy 
 who showed us into two huge barns with the 
 most depressing furniture I have ever beheld. 
 Next morning we unearthed an annex with neat, 
 cheerful rooms overlooking the garden, and a 
 bath apiece. (Ten yen a day each; six yen 
 for the maid; all including fires.) 
 
 [61 
 
VII 
 
 KYOTO 
 
 March twenty-fifth. 
 HE main "sights" of Kyoto could be 
 seen in a week but there are so many 
 delightful excursions in the neigh- 
 borhood and the streets and shops 
 of the old capital are of such endless interest that 
 a month here would be none too much. If one 
 wants any peace with the 'riksha men it is well 
 to start with at least some of the temples. 
 
 Miss Scidmore describes the palaces and most 
 important temples in a very readable manner 
 in "Jinrikisha Days" and we have followed her 
 advice as to what was most worth seeing almost 
 implicitly and, to us, with very satisfactory 
 results. Our "ponies" bully us unmercifully 
 at times, but in most instances we have been 
 able to see what we wanted to and cut out the 
 rest, and they certainly afford us much enjoy- 
 ment and occasionally lead us to something we 
 would otherwise have missed and for which we 
 are most grateful to them. 
 
 Higashi-0-tani, Yasakajiusha, and Chionin 
 (the big bell) are all conveniently near together, 
 
 [62] 
 
A BACK STREET IN KYOTO 
 
 
 
 7x 
 
 
 [£] 
 
 n ^^ 
 
 ^H 1 
 
 E 
 
 
 
 W 
 
 
KYOTO 
 
 next Maruyama Park, with its historical cherry 
 tree, charmingly lighted every night while in 
 blossom. Then Yaami's famous hotel, small 
 but comfortable and much less expensive than 
 the Kyoto and Miyako, the Yasaka Pagoda 
 with its beautiful bronze bells on every corner 
 of its five stories, and the Kiyomizu Temple — 
 an easy day's work. 
 
 The Mikado's Palace and the Nijo Palace 
 (formerly occupied by the Shoguns now used by 
 the Crown Prince) for visiting which permits 
 must be obtained from one's legation in Tokyo, 
 both are well worth seeing with their kakamo- 
 nos, wall paintings and carved screens, to say 
 nothing of the beautiful hardware on their 
 shojis, and their even more charming gardens. 
 
 In conjunction with them, if pressed for time, 
 one may take in the Kinkakuji or Golden 
 Temple, a veritable gem! Built for an out-of- 
 town retreat for one of the Shoguns, it became 
 a monastery and later a temple. 
 
 After admiring the beauties of the main build- 
 ing with one of the priests, we chmbed to the 
 top of the pavilion overlooking the little lake 
 accompanied by an irrepressible small boy who 
 helped us feed the fish. We then rambled 
 through the garden and were finally invited by 
 our inseparables to have tea with some priests 
 
 [65] 
 
KYOTO 
 
 in a little cottage on the hill. Little did we 
 suspect when a red lacquer tray containing a 
 paper napkin and a white square with a picture 
 of Kinkakuji in the frosting was placed in front 
 of each of us that "ceremonial tea" was to 
 follow — or we should probably have fled. A 
 charming old man served us and the death- 
 dealing concoction — or so it tasted to us — was 
 presented in the most beautiful of bowls. We 
 nibbled the sweet {?), gulped down as much as 
 was humanly possible of the awful mess and 
 were so embarrassed over not being able to 
 drain our bowls as etiquette demanded that we 
 forgot to wrap up the confection and take it 
 away in our pockets! One of our hosts per- 
 formed that office for us with snorts of rage at 
 our ill-breeding while the other with similar 
 cheering sounds removed the half empty bowl. 
 It was a most humiliating experience and we 
 beat a hasty and undignified retreat. 
 
 On the way out, we stopped at the Shinto 
 shrines of Kitano and Hirano to see their lovely 
 gardens. Now we hastened home to hide our 
 diminished heads. 
 
 The Heianjigu shrines are not specially inter- 
 esting in themselves, but hide one of the most 
 beautiful gardens in Kyoto — little suspected in 
 a cursory peek through the gate. 
 
 [661 
 
GINKAKUJI, THE SILVER TEMPLE 
 
 
 
 M 
 
KYOTO 
 
 Ginkakiiji, or the Silver Temple, lies in a 
 totally different direction from any of the other 
 "sights," but nothing could be more restful, 
 after several days of sightseeing, than this 
 hour's ride mostly through the "truly rural" 
 districts, past tea fields and farm-houses. We 
 were finally led by an "embryo priest" 
 with the face of a cherub to the house where 
 Yoshimasa, eighth of the Ashikaga shoguns, 
 with the assistance of Murato Shinkio, the 
 priest, and Soami, the painter, evolved the Tea 
 Ceremony or Cha no yu ; then to the incense 
 room, to admire the art treasures of kakemonos 
 and print-books and lastly through the delight- 
 ful garden. When offered tea we took no 
 chances, mindful of our disgrace of the other 
 day. 
 
 Fortunate indeed are those who reach Kyoto 
 armed with an introduction to the charming 
 principal of The Doshisha Girls' School. Hers is 
 the magical key that opens all doors and solves 
 all problems. Marvellous are the excursions she 
 plans and endless are the joys and surprises she 
 arranges for these favored ones. 
 
 We found her in vacation time when teachers 
 and scholars, except the handful who lived too 
 far away, had scattered to their homes. Even 
 then she was in constant demand from early 
 
 [691 
 
KYOTO 
 
 morn till she finally escaped to bed, — rather a 
 high price to pay for the unique place she has 
 won for herself in thirty years' residence. In 
 spite of the incessant appeals she managed to 
 save many happy hours for us and to procure 
 for us many pleasures which would otherwise 
 have been unknown. One whole morning we 
 drove with her and the foremost gardener of 
 Kyoto from one to another of the lovely private 
 gardens so jealously guarded from the public eye. 
 
 As the opportunity was a rare one we were 
 quite a party. A shriveled-up little German 
 Egyptologist and his friend and inseparable 
 companion, a big burly Englishman whose one 
 idea seemed to be to get as many photographs 
 of the party as possible. An American lady 
 who was much keener on getting the names of 
 the titled owners of the gardens into her note- 
 book — in order to impress friends at home — 
 than she was on seeing the gardens. A young 
 New Yorker, traveling in the interest of the 
 Metropolitan Museum, who turned out to be 
 an old friend whom I had not seen since we 
 attended dancing school together, and a few 
 professional tourists, English and American. 
 
 These gardens are invariably laid out with an 
 eye to the effect at every season of the year 
 and everything in them has a meaning even to 
 
 [701 
 
COUNT ICHIDA'S GARDEN 
 
KYOTO 
 
 the size and shape of the stepping-stones across 
 a brook. 
 
 The Moon-seats (covered settees so placed as 
 to afford the best view of the moon) always 
 have three stones in front of them of different 
 heights. "The most honorable guest" sits so 
 as to put his feet on the highest stone, "the 
 next most honorable guest" places his on one 
 of medium height, and so on. 
 
 The ideas were all so charming as to give 
 one a desire to stay and take up gardening as 
 a profession. 
 
 Another experience, full of atmosphere, which 
 we owed to her, was the evening spent in the 
 little settlement where a native and his wife, 
 good Christian people, live and do neighborhood 
 work by day and throw their rooms open for 
 classes in English, gymnastics, and other 
 subjects at night and for Sunday School and 
 prayer meetings on Sunday. This occasion was 
 an entertainment. The young men presented 
 the trial scene from The Merchant of Venice, in 
 Japanese, translated from English and staged, 
 entirely by themselves. The acting was so 
 realistic that any one at all familiar with his 
 Shakespeare could not fail to follow it with ease. 
 
 Before and afterward, an English girl, pressed 
 into service for the occasion, sang to them 
 
 [73] 
 
KYOTO 
 
 familiar songs and hymns in which the children 
 joined in the chorus with great delight. 
 
 To our stupefaction the meeting closed with 
 prayer, but no one else thought it strange and 
 all filed out with many bows to their teachers 
 and the visitors as well. 
 
 Here we met one of the older young men said 
 to be an expert in jiu jitsu, and when he found 
 we were interested he kindly made an engage- 
 ment to call for us and take us to see some good 
 work at the Jiu Jitsu School. It opens at three 
 in the afternoon. There is a large room, mostly 
 arena, with room for spectators on two sides, 
 and alcoves where the participants can change 
 their costumes in full view of every one present 
 — which they do without the slightest idea that 
 such a proceeding is even unusual ! As many as 
 fifty couples were wrestling and as many more 
 fencing, the space being about equally divided 
 for the two forms of sport. One felt the need of 
 a few extra pairs of eyes about as much as at a 
 three-ring circus. Boys of seven or eight are 
 sent here to learn to wrestle, this being as much 
 a part of necessary education as the three R's at 
 home, but they do not take up fencing under 
 twelve. I use the word "wrestle" for lack of a 
 better, but it gives an entirely erroneous idea. 
 In jiu jitsu the idea is not to oppose the oppo- 
 
 [74] 
 
STREET SCENE, KYOTO 
 
KYOTO 
 
 nent in any sense, but to cede to him until he 
 wearies himself, to aggravate his violence and 
 give his thrusts more impetus, and so lead him 
 on to over-exertion and possibly the dislocation 
 of his own joints and breaking of his bones. 
 This theory is particularly interesting as it is 
 really a fundamental principle of life: carried 
 into every form of warfare, even international 
 politics. Jiu jitsu practice is conducted in per- 
 fect silence, while fencing is accompanied by so 
 much conversation as to remind the uninitiated 
 of a visit to a Madison Square Garden Dog Show. 
 
 There were about a dozen girls among the 
 fencing pupils. Teachers and most skilful 
 pupils are quickly discerned by a color badge. 
 In jiu jitsu it is the belt and in fencing a ribbon 
 on the helmet. Black is the highest color in 
 each, brown next, then white and so on. But 
 as this is the highest school in the land, one 
 with a third or fourth rate standing here, is 
 expected to easily win from the most expert 
 representatives of the other schools. 
 
 We walked home through Theater Street and 
 were so amused by decorations, venders of 
 everything one could think of, and mountebanks, 
 that it was hard to realize that this part of 
 town, quite forbidden to kuruma, is always so 
 gay, day in and day out. 
 
 [771 
 
VIII 
 
 THE CHERRY DANCE 
 
 HAT evening was the first perform- 
 ance of the Cherry Dance. Lest we 
 miss it, we secured our first-class 
 tickets well in advance — small pieces 
 of cherry wood covered with hieroglyphics — and 
 repented afterwards of our extravagance, for they 
 also entitled us to "ceremonial tea" served to us 
 by poor little painted dolls, geisha apprentices, 
 apparently ranging from six to twelve years of 
 age. They took their duties very seriously, en- 
 tering in silent procession, six at a time, solemnly 
 holding in both hands the plate of sweets or 
 bowl of tea, bowing low to each person as they 
 deposited it. The plates were of lacquer and 
 intended for souvenirs, a paper nakpin was 
 also supplied to wrap up the unconsumed 
 sweets. This time we had the courage of our 
 convictions and "passed" on the tea, feeling 
 rather uncomfortable at being thus conspicuous 
 in spite of assurance from the hotel manager 
 that no one would be offended if we refused to 
 drink it. This took a long time and the room 
 was close, so it was with much relief that we 
 
PILGRIMS IN THE STREETS OF KYOTO 
 
 /^ 
 
 7X 
 
 
 :;il:i::i::^ 
 
 ^H 
 
 
 
THE CHERRY DANCE 
 
 finally proceeded to an inadequate gallery. 
 Here again we envied those with cheaper tickets, 
 for they were already occupjdng the best seats — 
 corresponding to our orchestra chairs. The per- 
 formers filed onto the stage from the back, 
 coming up both sides, musicians, singers and 
 dancers all dressed in brilliant blue embroidered 
 with violent pink cherry blossoms and with 
 very ornate faces and head-dresses. The bi- 
 zarre effect was heightened by the melancholy 
 minor notes of the samisen, and the weirdly un- 
 natural singing voices; the dances were slow 
 and graceful, each motion studied and formal. 
 As the whole performance was repeated several 
 times in an evening before different audiences, 
 there were no intermissions between acts, but 
 always a change of scene — made almost instan- 
 taneously before our eyes. Ceilings would fall, 
 floors rise up, walls jump out of place — all di- 
 rected by unseen hands and giving a most un- 
 canny sensation. 
 
 Much as we enjoyed it all, the ride which 
 followed through balmy night air to the great 
 Cherry Tree near the Gion Temple in Maruyama 
 Park was more than refreshing. It seemed a 
 jump back from the artificial to the natural — 
 almost the supernatural when we drew up in 
 front of the center of attraction, an enormous 
 
 [81] 
 
THE CHERRY DANCE 
 
 tree, with wide-spreading branches all covered 
 with large, full-blown blossoms, surrounded by 
 a rope-fence and suspended from each post a 
 miniature witch's cauldron filled with blazing 
 kindling wood. The park was thronged with 
 men, women and children, each carrying a 
 lighted paper lantern, all in constant motion. 
 Lantern venders with an ever-ready eye for 
 business were on hand to supply the needs of 
 those who came unprepared or who met with 
 accidents — conflagrations being always expected^ 
 and with reason. 
 
 A visit to Kyoto is far from complete without 
 an excursion to the curio and antique shops^ 
 Many of them are historical and should be ap- 
 proached with an open-minded desire to see all 
 phases of life, and a readiness for any experi- 
 ences. The hasty "shopper" misses the better 
 part; time should be no object. 
 
 Matsobia, a good distance out, has one part 
 of his shop for natives, the other for foreigners, 
 and a marvellous collection of second-hand ki- 
 monos, gift-cloths, and other treasures. Nomura^ 
 opposite Benten's, has ivories, bronzes, em- 
 broideries and the like. Yamanaka, near Maru- 
 yama Park, has everything — including bags 
 for your feet — you can think of, ancient and 
 modern and best of its kind. You feel you are 
 
 [82] 
 
PRIEST WITH PRAYER FAN, KYOTO 
 
 ^H 
 
 
 
 \y 
 
 
THE CHERRY DANCE 
 
 not in a shop but have wandered unawares into 
 a museum. 
 
 Namikawa, the most famous maker of cloi- 
 sonne, has a dehghtful garden back of his shop 
 and is himself worthy a visit. Unfortunately he 
 was out of town when we called and we missed 
 seeing the old man. 
 
 Seifu, on Gojo Saka, near Spectacle Bridge, is 
 rapidly coming to the fore as a maker of pottery 
 and beautiful in color and form is everything on 
 his shelves. 
 
 Whether or not you care for Satsuma you 
 must go to Kinkozan's where you may see the 
 whole process from beginning to end (you had 
 best purchase something before asking for the 
 privilege) and you are sure to come away with a 
 lighter pocketbook. 
 
 He who does not care for bamboo had best 
 look closely before putting himself on record, or, 
 like myself, he may be forced to admire against 
 his will and to his surprise find many old friends 
 whose origin he had never suspected. Bamboo, 
 like many other things of Japanese manufacture, 
 is too often estimated by the rubbish seen in 
 America, which is entirely made up for foreign 
 trade. So convinced are they that this is the 
 sort of thing we like, that those who appreciate 
 and want articles used and admired by natives 
 
 [85 1 
 
THE CHERRY DANCE 
 
 find it a labor of time and patience to persuade 
 the shop-keeper to produce them for his in- 
 spection. The love of the beautiful is so inborn 
 that the most ordinary utensils of copper, por- 
 celain or wood are things of beauty, no matter 
 how inexpensive. The workmanship is always 
 exquisite, and the care and time expended, 
 endless. 
 
 The fact that a thing is to be for temporary 
 use and quickly discarded has no influence over 
 the maker. His labor is always painstaking and 
 careful. Even rakes, brooms and hearth-brushes, 
 usually so hopelessly ugly, here become treas- 
 ures fit for a cabinet. The metal beam-corners, 
 and finger sockets for sliding the shoji of the 
 poorest houses are beautifully chased or carved. 
 Straw sandals that must be thrown away at the 
 end of a few miles are all braided by hand and 
 I never could become accustomed to the sight of 
 men standing on a scaffold tying knot by knot 
 the ropes of rice straw that hold in place the 
 bamboo-ribs that form the foundation for plaster 
 in the houses built to resist earthquakes. In 
 this connection I might add that practically 
 everything that cannot be made of rice-straw, 
 can be made of bamboo, and vice versa. The 
 ideal roof in time of earthquake is still thatch, 
 but on account of danger from fire it is gradu- 
 
 [861 
 
THE CHERRY DANCE 
 
 ally giving way in congested districts to heavy 
 tile, not nearly so pretty. Although electric 
 lighting is now quite common, the paper lan- 
 tern is as popular as ever on gala occasions, and 
 will probably never be entirely banished. Con- 
 sequently fires will continue to flourish. 
 
 871 
 
IX 
 
 HUMAN TANDEMS 
 
 March thirtieth. 
 |INCE the building of the Tokaido 
 Railroad, 'riksha travel along that 
 route has been nearly abandoned, 
 and most tourists who wish to " take 
 in" the beauties of Lake Biwa, take the half- 
 hour run by rail to Otsu and return by canal. 
 This is particularly recommended just now, as 
 the building of a trolley line is keeping the road 
 in pretty poor condition. 
 
 We were not to be dissuaded, however, and 
 at ten o'clock one bright morning we started, 
 single file, two "boys" to each 'riksha. The 
 first mile after passing the Miyako Hotel was 
 pretty bad and as it was uphill our boys groaned 
 and grunted and my "one-eyed aflSnity," as 
 the D. B. calls him, who as usual was leader, 
 finally stopped arid with his winning smile asked 
 us to "take a little walk." 
 
 We were really glad to, this time, and soon 
 the worst was over and we were bowling along 
 again, on good road, past picturesque villages, 
 their streets swarming with children shouting 
 "E-day-da" at sight of us — we decided after 
 
PINE FOREST BEHIND TEMPLE AT OTSU 
 
HUMAN TANDEMS 
 
 much consultation that that is Japanese for 
 *'easy mark"; it really is a corruption of the 
 word meaning foreigners. On we went between 
 rows of weeping willows just leafed out, rice- 
 fields and orchards ready to burst into bloom; 
 then through a dark ravine with splashing water- 
 fall doing duty further on by turning a huge 
 mill wheel. It was like a dream-ride and just 
 when we became a trifle tired of sitting, we 
 stopped in front of a neat teahouse and were 
 served with the usual thimble-full of colorless 
 but delicious refreshment, while our eyes feasted 
 on the beauties of the garden beyond. The 
 pretty little maid who waited on us looked like 
 a butterfly in her bright kimono and presented 
 no bill but was pleased with the 20 sen left on 
 her tray. Then on again till we reached Otsu at 
 twelve noon, where we first visited the Temple, 
 not much to see in itself, but commanding a 
 wonderful view of the lake and its surrounding 
 mountains which rewarded us for the climb up 
 the many stone steps. Going down the other 
 side of the terrace we found ourselves in a park, 
 black with huge pine trees, and every few steps 
 discovering some fresh beauty, arranged by man 
 or nature for our pleasure. 
 
 The pangs of hunger assailing us we proceeded 
 to the hotel — having scorned to bring lunch with 
 
 [911 
 
HUMAN TANDEMS 
 
 us — where we were led up two flights of stairs to 
 a charming big room with balcony overlooking 
 the lake. As usual the idea of Europeans want- 
 ing a regular "Nippon Tiffin" was long in 
 filtering through the native mind, but it came 
 at last, and such a repast! First raw fish, cut 
 in neat slices, standing at one side of each indi- 
 vidual plate, raw yolk-of-egg in front, alongside 
 of it a sticky white substance, and a dash of 
 green in each end. To eat raw egg with chop- 
 sticks is no easy task and when achieved we 
 felt very proud. Next shrimp fishballs (not 
 fried), with what looked like brussels-sprouts, 
 but tasted more like bamboo. A liquid resem- 
 bling beef -tea was served on a little butter-plate 
 and intended as sauce for the fish. At the same 
 time soup in little covered bowls with "prizes" 
 in the bottom, which gave the effect of an 
 aquarium. Next, salad made of uncooked 
 mushrooms, and sliced cucumbers. We closed 
 with fried eels and delicious rice, fruit, and 
 tea. The beautiful ride to the Karasaki Tem- 
 ple and the wonderful pine tree was a joy 
 most tourists skip, but it was well worth while. 
 My "angel boy" recommended the trip back 
 to the canal by steamer, but we rebelled. 
 Strange that we should derive more pleasure 
 from "being pulled" than they from pulling! 
 
 [921 
 
ROOM AT OTSU WHERE LUNCH WAS SERVED 
 IN JAPANESE STYLE 
 
HUMAN TANDEMS 
 
 Arrived at the canal and having indulged in 
 special boat tickets — three yen for the party 
 — we watched the natives for a while scram- 
 bling in hordes into boats with a covered 
 center not unlike gondolas, as usual removing 
 their shoes before stepping on the mats. After 
 much jabbering a brand new boat, without 
 matting was brought for us and three camp 
 chairs placed in the bow — ^but not to the satis- 
 faction of my "Wall-eyed S. M." A piece of 
 matting had to be produced for my august 
 feet and the chairs first placed "spike," had to 
 be arranged so that the ladies sat in front, the 
 yama san just behind, with a rug in each chair. 
 This accomplished, we were invited to enter 
 and with majestic tread the present arbiter of 
 our destinies withdrew under the canopy to 
 revel in thoughts of the "other 'riksha boys taking 
 little walk" to the far end of the canal, until he 
 became so cold and stiff from unaccustomed 
 inaction and the clammy blasts in the tunnels 
 that we could hear his teeth chatter. The first 
 tunnel is 2436 meters long and seemed endless, 
 though in reality it takes less than half an hour 
 to go through it. Then out into the bright sun- 
 light between the lovely hillsides and beautiful 
 banks edged on each side with picturesque tow- 
 paths. These latter were in constant use, as 
 
 [95 1 
 
HUMAN TANDEMS 
 
 the current is much too swift to admit of rowing 
 or poling on the return trip. This part of the 
 journey was so pretty as to well repay us for 
 the chill we suffered and on a warm summer 
 day should be a delight. The second tunnel 
 was little more than a bridge and at the exit of 
 the third, 849 meters, we had reached our desti- 
 nation and the 'rikshas. In a few moments we 
 were back at the hotel enjoying tea and declar- 
 ing that this was one of the best days we had 
 had, and that none of the guide-books did the 
 trip justice. 
 
 March thirty-first. 
 
 The best train for Arashiyama — if one wishes 
 his boatmen to return the same day and so be 
 spared the expense of extra pay — leaves Kyoto 
 at ten. After an hour's ride with more or less 
 interesting companions, we alighted at the sta- 
 tion from which it is only a ten-minute walk to 
 the boat landing, but 'rikshas are waiting, and 
 if there is a crowd it is well to make a dash for 
 it, as otherwise one may have a long wait for a 
 boat, unpainted flat-bottom affairs, accommo- 
 dating from three to six passengers apiece, and 
 with a crew of four men. We secured the second 
 boat for seven yen, which was much better than 
 being first, as the thrills were greater when we 
 
 [961 
 
HILLSIDE OPPOSITE ARASHIYAMA 
 
 
 
 
 
HUMAN TANDEMS 
 
 watched others bobbing about. Shooting the 
 rapids was just exciting enough to be pleasant 
 without the shghtest need for fear. The trip 
 down took a Httle over an hour. The weather 
 was still cool enough for heavy wraps to be 
 desirable, but signs of spring were everywhere 
 and the day made to order, — bright sunlight; 
 wonderful cloud-effects. The water sparkled 
 and danced and our way wound in and out 
 between mountains, sometimes only room enough 
 for the Oigawa river. Then the hills would 
 widen out exposing rice fields, or less fertile 
 country where peasants were busy gathering 
 weeds — for what purpose we could not guess 
 — or fagots and firewood. Every few minutes 
 we would overtake a raft of logs, floating down 
 to the saw-mill and, after some poling and 
 pushing and much conversation between pilots, 
 we would pass gloriously ahead. Occasionally 
 we met boats on the way up, single or in groups, 
 sometimes being poled, sometimes towed. The 
 most exciting moments were when rival boats 
 tried to pass the same raft on opposite sides, 
 defeating their own purpose of gaining time, 
 and making as much extra work for their own 
 crew as for the one ahead they had hoped to 
 pass. The scenery grew constantly more beau- 
 tiful until the last half mile, where the hillsides 
 
 [99] 
 
HUMAN TANDEMS 
 
 fairly blazed with color; pale pink of the cher- 
 ries, deep pink of the peaches, all enhanced by 
 a background of green firs and sunlight trickling 
 through here and there and discovering tiny 
 teahouses hidden away among the foliage. 
 The 'riksha men, ordered to meet us at two 
 o'clock and not before, were ready to help us 
 out of the boats when we landed at twelve, and 
 were most disappointed to find that we knew 
 exactly which place we wished to patronize and 
 had no desire to have them act as interpreters 
 in ordering our lunch. After the usual bowings 
 and o'hai yas, a bunch of chattering magpies 
 — the Japanese find it impossible to do anything 
 singly, or else have never tried — led us up the 
 customary wooden stairway (polished till its 
 surface could serve as a mirror and which made 
 you sympathize with the ban against shoes) 
 and into a room with a tiny balcony overlook- 
 ing the river but with its charm quite spoiled 
 by hideous European chairs, and a kitchen 
 table off which we were supposed to eat our 
 lunch. More giggling and chattering and frantic 
 effort and at last they were quite convinced 
 that this mark of respect was entirely unappre- 
 ciated and that nothing would do us but a truly 
 "Nippon" lunch in "Nippon" style. Out went 
 table and chairs and in came a tiny substitute 
 
 [1001 
 
POLING BACK FROM THE RAPIDS, ARASHIYAMA 
 
 [£] 
 
 \B\ 
 
HUMAN TANDEMS 
 
 for the former, six inches high, a futon apiece 
 and a hibachi to warm our hands and light our 
 pipes. We had a dehcious lunch, fried fish (toi), 
 also eels and rice, toast and tea, several delica- 
 cies too elusive for description, and a golden 
 omelet which tasted like nectar. As usual we 
 had an admiring audience (either of us or of the 
 way we handled our chopsticks) ostensibly to 
 wait on us. We were presently discovered by 
 our next door neighbors who opened the shoji 
 a crack and took turns peeking through and 
 pointing first at us and then at the remains of 
 our repast. Judging from the giggles they 
 thought us an incongruous combination. We 
 hated to leave, but another treat was in store 
 for us. Our tandems took us one of the most 
 beautiful rides we had had, and in half an hour 
 we were presenting our special passes at the 
 entrance of Katsurano-Miya, omitted by most 
 tourists either because they do not know of 
 it or do not think it worth while. But worth 
 while it certainly is, and historically most in- 
 teresting, with an exceptionally lovely garden 
 and several treasures. One of these, a velvet 
 wall-covering seven hundred years old, was 
 only exhibited because we captivated our guide 
 and guardian by our enthusiastic admiration. 
 The ride home by a more direct route was 
 8 [ 103 ] 
 
HUMAN TANDEMS 
 
 not so pretty, as we left the open country for 
 the towns, but still was interesting, and we 
 entered Kyoto near the Nishi Hongwangi 
 Temple at three in the afternoon, with plenty 
 of time to see it and the equally beautiful 
 and much older companion temple, Higashi 
 Hongwangi. Nishi is not yet finished ; it is 
 all gold and glitter, but, when your eyes be- 
 come accustomed to the dazzle, is of really 
 beautiful workmanship. 
 
 April third. 
 
 Why any one, not compelled to, should go to 
 Osaka I cannot say, unless to ascertain which 
 of its nicknames, the Venice or the Chicago of 
 Japan, is most appropriate. It is the center of 
 commerce, but even so, the former title is an 
 insult to Venice and the latter not half bad 
 enough. A noisy, smoky, grimy city, it cer- 
 tainly has nothing to commend it to the tourist, 
 and nothing to console him, once there, except 
 a picturesque castle wall. It is only an hour 
 and a half by rail from Kyoto and so very easy 
 for the sceptical to go down and see for them- 
 selves. The trains run frequently and another 
 hour takes one to beautiful Nara, but one can 
 go there as easily direct from Kyoto and skip 
 Osaka entirely — which would be my advice. 
 
 [1041 
 
GIANT PINE TREE AT KARASAKI 
 
HUMAN TANDEMS 
 
 Nara presents a charming combination. Its 
 temples and historical interests are of the oldest, 
 while the Nara Hotel and the other comforts 
 are modern and up-to-date. One can wander 
 for hours and never tire of the endless stone 
 lanterns and stately Cryptomeria trees, and 
 feed the deer that eat out of your hands and 
 then frisk away with flying leaps. One of the 
 most restful spots in all Japan, peaceful and 
 beautiful and yet full of interest and oppor- 
 tunity to study if one craves it. 
 
 Nagoya, with a poor hotel and little to see, 
 and Ise, a famous shrine pilgrimage — neither 
 important unless time is no object — are at good 
 distances to break the journey if desired. 
 Otherwise, one can leave at 7:30 a. m., and 
 reach Tokyo at 8 p. m. with two changes. The 
 next best train arrives at midnight. 
 
 105 
 
X 
 
 THE CAPITAL 
 
 April fifth. 
 Imperial Hotel. 
 
 OKYO seemed so very Europeanized 
 after the other Japanese towns we 
 had been visiting that our first 
 gUmpse of it struck us with the 
 chill of disappointment. The streets were too 
 wide, automobiles too numerous, trolleys too 
 noisy and too fast, and there were too many brick 
 and stone buildings. Our eyes had become so 
 unaccustomed to the signs and symbols of 
 modem civilization that the shock of meeting 
 them all again dazzled us so as to at first ob- 
 literate the picturesqueness and the beauty of 
 the things really Japanese. We soon found, 
 however, that they were all there and that it 
 was only a question of knowing where to look. 
 Though I cannot claim for Tokyo the charm 
 of the old capital, still it has many beauty 
 spots and many interests peculiarly its own. 
 
 The Imperial Palace, built near the center of 
 the city, with its beautiful garden thrown open 
 once a year to the favored few, is surrounded by 
 
 [1061 
 
STREET SCENE IJST TOKYO 
 
THE CAPITAL 
 
 a high wall and broad moat, the former over- 
 topped with giant pines set off against the sky- 
 line in weird and fantastic shapes, which when 
 the sun is right cast their reflections into the 
 water beneath. Nearly circling the whole is a 
 broad avenue with a double line of cherry trees, 
 gorgeous when in bloom and on the far side the 
 principal government buildings and foreign em- 
 bassies, each with a lovely private garden. The 
 United States Embassy with its princely occu- 
 pant is a trifle withdrawn. 
 
 Shiba Park with its beautiful pines, nearby 
 the Shiba Temples with the magnificent tombs 
 of the Tokugawa Shoguns, and a little farther 
 on Sengakuji and the tombs of the forty-seven 
 Ronins, can all be visited in half a day and will 
 more than repay a visit. We were particularly 
 interested in the aforementioned forty-seven, 
 owing to the fact that we had had the privilege 
 in Kyoto of meeting a descendant of one of them, 
 who, after a little urging, displayed her ancestor's 
 sword and other relics and with a fervor of 
 patriotism, ancestor, and hero-worship, rolled 
 into one, related the whole story in voluble and 
 fluent Japanese. This again was translated to 
 us into perfect English by a native college pro- 
 fessor, our whole party squatting on futons and 
 sipping tea around a hibachi, and with the in- 
 
 f 109 1 
 
THE CAPITAL 
 
 evitable takamona in the corner — a perfect 
 setting. 
 
 During cherry blossom season, every one goes 
 to Uyeno Park to admire and almost to worship 
 Japan's favorite flower. And truly it is worth 
 all the veneration it receives. Nowhere can they 
 be seen to better advantage, as the trees are 
 innumerable — in rows and double rows and 
 scattered about among the greens of all shades. 
 All Tkoyo is there of a Sunday — rich and poor, 
 men, women and children, natives and foreigners, 
 but the latter in the minority. Well on the 
 outside are a number of tea-houses, here and 
 there tables spread out for the poorer folk who 
 bring their tea and "eats" with them; a large 
 exposition building, an aquarium, a museum 
 and of course temples with their Torii and 
 stone lanterns. 
 
 Distances are great in Tokyo, but we did not 
 realize how great until we attempted to do a 
 couple of errands before eleven o'clock service 
 on Good Friday morning. The Kurumaya 
 move more slowly than in other parts of Japan. 
 Banking is a serious matter and almost as 
 lengthy a one as in Turkey. Shopping in shops 
 where only Japanese is spoken, and when one 
 wants things truly Japanese which no self- 
 respecting Jap can be made even after super- 
 
 [1101 
 
IMPERIAL PALACE GROUNDS, TOKYO 
 
 (£] 
 
 
 
THE CAPITAL 
 
 human effort to imagine that any foreigner 
 would want, is a herculean task. 
 
 All these things taken into consideration, it 
 may not seem strange that at 10: 50 we *'came 
 to" and realized that it would take a good half 
 hour to get back to the American Cathedral and 
 that we were just about scenting the trail of 
 what we were in search of. To stop now would 
 mean a wasted morning so far as our quest 
 was concerned, and the embarrassing experience 
 of entering church when the service was half 
 over. The day before the Bishop had very 
 kindly suggested that we might be interested 
 to attend the three hour Japanese service com- 
 mencing at twelve. We did not agree with 
 him at the time, but now the invitation occurred 
 to us as a solution of our difficulty. We could 
 accomplish what we started out to do, go back 
 for lunch and then go to church. As we would 
 not know what was being said anyway the fact 
 that we were late would not matter. This plan 
 we carried out with great satisfaction to our- 
 selves. The cathedral was full of serious and 
 devout men and women, all absolutely intent 
 on the day and the purpose for which they were 
 there. We knelt, sat or stood like those about 
 us, at first read our prayer books during the 
 reading and preaching until at last we fell under 
 
 [1131 
 
THE CAPITAL 
 
 the spell of the earnestness of the preacher and 
 the melodious rhythm of his tones. To hear 
 the hymns to which we had been accustomed 
 all our lives sung in a strange language by a 
 church full of people who put their whole souls 
 into their singing, was most inspiring and a 
 comment on our listless congregations at home, 
 most of which hire a choir to sing for them, a 
 curate to read to them and pray over them, and 
 a preacher to think for them and make them 
 feel virtuous through condescending to listen to 
 him. 
 
 A chance acquaintance, with a knowledge of 
 the language, instructed our 'riksha boys to put 
 us down at the far end of the Nacodori that we 
 might loiter to our heart's content, as that 
 street of curio-shops is far too fascinating to 
 ride through even with" the most weary of two- 
 footed steeds. We looked our fill, always with 
 one eye on the time, as a learned professor, who 
 in response to the request of a friend had already 
 called twice and found us out, had telephoned to 
 know if he might call and take tea with us at 
 our hotel at five. 
 
 This time we were there and he, in truly 
 Japanese style, was not! In this connection, 
 it might be interesting to add that although he 
 telephoned or wrote to make an appointment 
 
 [ 114] 
 
PARK OF A SUNDAY AFTERNOON IN CHERRY- 
 BLOSSOM SEASON, TOKYO 
 
THE CAPITAL 
 
 with us, on an average of once a day during 
 our stay, we left Tokyo without seeing him, but 
 armed with a goodly supply of literature — his 
 gift — on Charitable Institutions and Social Work 
 in Japan ! 
 
 Saturday morning we planned to devote to 
 our camera and more especially to the cherry- 
 blossoms which were quite at their best and 
 which we wished to take home in the most real- 
 istic way possible. Unfortunately the weather- 
 man disapproved of our project and we waked to 
 a down-pour of rain and were forced to compro- 
 mise on a Shinto Shrine, a large museum close 
 by mostly filled with implements of war and 
 relics of the late conflict with Russia, and a fruit- 
 less quest of "Chin" dogs. 
 
 In the afternoon we had the pleasure of lunch- 
 ing and attending the famous "No-dance" with 
 a charming Japanese lady who had attended 
 college in America and therefore spoke our 
 language perfectly, and who very amiably acted 
 as interpreter — no easy task, as the peculiar 
 singing which accompanies this ancient and 
 classical drama is mostly in an obsolete form of 
 Japanese. This little lady, however, being the 
 daughter of a Shinto priest and having had an 
 interesting career before going abroad, was as 
 highly educated in things pertaining to her own 
 
 [1171 
 
THE CAPITAL 
 
 people as in things American and European. 
 Besides teaching school, she is deep in the work 
 of the Y. W. C. A., which not only has a large 
 field here, but seems to be accomplishing a great 
 deal of good. One of their biggest problems 
 just now is trying to provide suitable homes 
 for the hundreds of young girls who come to 
 the large cities every year to attend Christian 
 schools and a very small percentage of whom can 
 be taken as boarding-pupils. The only alterna- 
 tive being the cheap boarding house with its 
 endless possibilities for temptation. Mais, reve- 
 nons a nos moutons. Being foreigners and not 
 having come prepared to remove our shoes — 
 the weather still being too chilly for pumps to be 
 alluring — we were ushered to a large box which 
 could be entered from a side passage, supplied 
 with European chairs one half of which were 
 labelled as having been reserved by a "man 
 (who sat in one) for people from an embassy" — 
 so we were once more in the society of the truly 
 great. 
 
 The "No" being a religious dance and a sort 
 of Shinto ceremonial no scenery is indulged in, 
 but the costumes were quite elaborate and the 
 supposedly invisible stage-shifters dressed in 
 black were on hand to arrange the folds of skirts 
 and costume as the performers stood or sat. 
 
 [118 1 
 
THE CAPITAL 
 
 The "No" singing is very "throaty" but high 
 pitched — seeming to come mostly from the roof 
 of the mouth — a very weird combination. Just 
 now it's quite a "fad" and the study of it much 
 indulged as a pastime among the young men — 
 as ours join Squadron A or the Mendelssohn 
 Glee Club. 
 
 Every movement is slow and studied, the 
 so-called dancing being merely a succession of 
 gestures and poses. The performers all entered 
 by way of a door on the left hand of what would 
 have been our stage, walked slowly across the 
 front — some who wore masks without eye- 
 openings being obliged to count their steps — 
 until they had turned the corner of an L on the 
 right where all the action took place. The usual 
 samisen has no part in these dramas, the accom- 
 paniments all being played on drums and wind 
 instruments. On the whole it is serious and 
 impressive but would have been rather tedious 
 without an explanation. 
 
 119 
 
XI 
 
 EASTER 
 
 E reached home about 5 : 30 and were 
 enjoying a cup of tea and taking off 
 our clothes to rest when a belated 
 and characteristic letter from our 
 dear friend in Kyoto was brought to the door. It 
 read: "Arriving in Tokyo Saturday a. m., meet 
 me at wonderful vesper service in Greek Cathe- 
 dral, Kanda, Saturday p. m. April 6th." In 
 the excitement and pleasure of this unexpected 
 reunion and the necessity for haste if the oppor- 
 tunity were not to be lost, I read "6 p.m." — 
 and we certainly hurried into our things and off. 
 A dressmaker who wanted to administer a 
 "fit" was dismissed in short order, 'rikshas 
 were sent for in haste ; but try as we would it 
 was well past six when we arrived. No sign of 
 our friend and still less of a service. A few 
 priests were busy "fussing around," candles 
 burned dimly before several handsome ikons and 
 in the midst of the gloom a figure of the dead 
 Christ lay in state on a bier before the high altar. 
 We tried to inquire about the service, but no 
 one spoke a word of English and everyone 
 
 [1201 
 
EASTER 
 
 appeared too busy to bother with us, finally 
 a man made signs to us to come with him and 
 we followed across the way to the bishop's 
 house. Here all was bustle. Men and women 
 were rushing hither and thither, arranging 
 flowers and preparing for an elaborate celebra- 
 tion. One or another gave us information which 
 we could not understand and motioned to us 
 to go here and there with no special purpose 
 till finally the guide who had brought us from 
 the church returned and led us, greatly surprised 
 and doubtful as to the propriety of obedience, 
 upstairs. Leaving us in the hall he entered 
 an apartment at one side, where he was presently 
 followed by a long-haired bishop who glided by 
 and closed the door. In a couple of moments 
 our befriender returned and ushered us into a 
 much furnished room with altar and reading- 
 desk covered with the white embroidered cover- 
 ings of the Easter season, and chairs drawn up 
 to a freshly -lighted fire. It was very hospitable 
 but we were nervous as to a misinterpretation 
 of our presence and made a hurried and uncere- 
 monious exit to the disappointment and confu- 
 sion of our newly acquired friend. On emerging 
 once more to the light of day — or twilight — we 
 saw a man on the church steps who was unmis- 
 takably American and promptly accosted him 
 
 f 1211 
 
EASTER 
 
 and begged for information. He very kindly 
 explained that he and a friend were in the same 
 dilemma, only, being able to speak the language, 
 his friend was inside asking questions. In a 
 moment he appeared with the tidings that 
 they had vespers every day at six, but that today 
 being Easter-even the service was postponed 
 until eleven. 
 
 The next question was what had become 
 of our companion-that-was-to-have-been, and 
 should we, or should we not, return again at 
 midnight. The yeas won, and after toasting 
 over the fire for several hours, we put on our 
 warmest wraps and launched forth again into a 
 beautiful, starlit night, with a wonderful moon, 
 and almost deserted streets, the silence only 
 broken by the patter, patter of our swift steeds 
 and their occasional remarks to one another 
 evidently philosophizing on the craziness of 
 foreigners in general and the amazing form it 
 took in the case of the present tyrants in par- 
 ticular. Ignorance of the language has its 
 advantages at times like these. Not even the 
 thought "what would our friends at home say 
 if they could see us two women wandering the 
 streets of a strange city — alone at this hour of 
 the night" — could spoil the charm of that excur- 
 sion. We have grown so to look upon this class 
 
 f 122 1 
 
EASTER 
 
 of native as a faithful and sure means of getting 
 from place to place without effort, and so lost 
 sight of the fact that they are men, that no 
 thought of danger in connection with them ever 
 entered my head. 
 
 When we finally neared the Cathedral and 
 came to a stop it was in a narrow alley -way, well 
 to the rear, and stumbling up the uneven steps 
 by the light of our own paper lanterns, one of 
 which was loosed and carried ahead by the 
 Bombs "boy," we made our way between high 
 stone buildings until approaching the church it- 
 self we found it in very much the same confusion 
 as the Bishop's house had been in in the after- 
 noon. Semi-darkness still reigned within but 
 altar coverings and the like were being changed, 
 places found in books, carpets laid and there was 
 a constant stream of children in and out, buy- 
 ing candles in the vestibule, and even playing 
 tag. No one paid the slightest attention to such 
 unseemly behavior. Half a dozen foreigners 
 sat waiting on pews beside the door, while the 
 natives either chattered in groups on the porch 
 or knelt inside in prayer. One woman had evi- 
 dently been in that attitude so long that she 
 finally fell asleep and toppled over — but no one 
 noticed. Finally all was ready. The priests 
 came out in their robes, took their places before 
 
 [1231 
 
EASTER 
 
 the coffin, and the noise and confusion ceased. 
 Then with much ceremony, the coverings were 
 removed, the bier raised by one set of priests 
 and carried to a side chapel while others re- 
 moved the supports that had held it. Amid 
 prayers and soft chanting it was replaced in its 
 usual position under a glass case, the whole 
 covered by a purple pall. Prayers continued 
 while bishop and priests withdrew to the sac- 
 risty, until at the stroke of twelve, they reap- 
 peared, robes of Holy Week replaced by those of 
 Easter. A light in the hand of a priest quickly 
 spread around the building as every one hastened 
 to light his or her candle from that of a more 
 fortunate neighbor, a procession formed, headed 
 by the highest dignitaries carrying relics, and 
 amid much chanting and swinging of censers 
 passed outside. A light was touched to the end 
 of a piece of string hanging from each chandelier 
 and wound so that it passed over the wick of 
 each of the seven candles on each branch so that 
 they seemed to blaze simultaneously. The 
 "kiss of peace" administered and the cathedral 
 circled, the procession returned and passed 
 between the lane formed by those who remained 
 within, back to the high altar where the service 
 was resumed. We waited awhile till convinced 
 that we would be rewarded by no new sensations, 
 
 [124] 
 
EASTER 
 
 then drove back in silence through the streets 
 that seemed to belong to us and the friendly 
 moon. 
 
 Although so at variance with everything 
 that had heretofore seemed a part of this 
 season, we felt that at last we had grasped a 
 little of the Easter spirit. Missing, in our days 
 of travel and sight-seeing, the usual occupations 
 and symbols of the Lenten season, we had sought 
 them in our own church, but the setting was so 
 different that it failed in impressiveness and 
 seemed unreal. As the realization of Lent first 
 came to us in the Good Friday service, in an 
 unknown tongue, so we felt the Easter Peace as 
 we left this remarkable ceremony of the Greek 
 Catholics. 
 
 That that was our Easter had quite as much 
 to do with a certain lack in the eleven o'clock 
 Morning Prayer in the American Cathedral as 
 the fact that we had no part in the floral decora- 
 tions, and no Sunday School festival with Easter 
 carols. The service was the same, we sang the 
 same hymns and listened to an excellent sermon. 
 The congregation were smiling and hearty in 
 their welcome to the strangers, but up in Kanda, 
 at midnight, we had had the thoughts and feel- 
 ings that could not be enjoyed again until another 
 year had been lived through. 
 
 [125] 
 
EASTER 
 
 Next morning, feeling that we must return 
 seriously to the neglected duty of sight-seeing, 
 we made an early start for Asakusa Park, which 
 we found amiably dressed in holiday attire and 
 with numberless booths and mountebanks doing 
 small but lively business within the temple en- 
 closures so that it was hard to remember that 
 the occasion was a religious one, although every- 
 one was paying their respects to the famous 
 but invisible Kwanon by gazing at, or pouring 
 water over, her thirty -one visible and small rep- 
 resentatives. As usual the grounds and blos- 
 soms were a treat in themselves and the babble 
 of conflicting sounds and colors was all so daz- 
 zling that it was hard to tear ourselves away. 
 The nearby temple of Higashi Hongwangi re- 
 ceived a visit and a charming monastery garden 
 shown us by a speechless boy priest at the 
 request of our "boys." 
 
 After lunch, feeling the need of exercise and 
 a desire to shop, we strolled about until so for- 
 tunate as to run across our lost Lady of Kyoto, 
 who had imagined all this time that we had her 
 address and had of course wondered why we 
 had not phoned. She was so much engaged 
 with her fellow-delegates that all we could secure 
 from her was the promise of joining us for break- 
 fast the next day if we would accompany her 
 
 [1261 
 
EASTER 
 
 thereafter to the Presbyterian Sunday School 
 Convention. In testimony to her charms be 
 it said that we gladly agreed. 
 
 By then it was time to keep an engagement 
 for tea with a stately American dame leading 
 a life similar but perhaps more interesting, and 
 a trifle more lonely than she would have had 
 at home in a European house in one of the outer 
 sections of the city, for the sake of her son, and 
 a daughter who had married a missionary. The 
 contrast to all we had been seeing of late and at 
 the same time its familiarity were very pleasant 
 and we lingered till time to start for a "Gunobi 
 party" in a quiet and truly Japanese restaurant 
 in the heart of the city. Our friends called for 
 us so there was no fear of getting lost, and we 
 enjoyed the novelty of a trolley ride unaccom- 
 panied by anxiety. Presently we were in a 
 centre-court the darkness weakened only by 
 what light filtered through the closed shoji of 
 surrounding rooms. Taking off our shoes the 
 American half of our party of six replaced them 
 by slippers brought in our pockets, and then 
 went upstairs to the room reserved for us. At 
 one side was a place for wraps and down the 
 centre three long tables about six inches high, 
 each with a delightful copper fire-place sunk 
 in the middle and filled with burning charcoal. 
 
 [127] 
 
EASTER 
 
 Alongside were two copper cups for heating sak6. 
 The rice was brought in ready cooked, the other 
 ingredients ready cut but raw. Two worked 
 with chop-sticks over each fire, kneeUng on the 
 opposite side of the tables. It is a "homely 
 dish" — in the English sense — formerly very 
 popular with poets, artists and thieves, which 
 perhaps is what makes it so palatable. However 
 that may be, the rice bowls were all passed to 
 be refilled more than once and the huge platters 
 were nearly innocent of meat and vegetables, 
 when the meal was concluded with tea, fruit, 
 and dried peas. The rain, intermittent all 
 day, had finally become discouraged, so that a 
 walk home by starlight ended a most unusual 
 and delightful evening. 
 
 "It was early to bed and early to rise" for 
 our breakfast guest had promised to join us 
 at eight o'clock. A scribbled card announced 
 her arrival long before that hour and afterward 
 she willingly stayed and chatted while I had 
 another fitting, Chinese tailors in Tokyo are 
 skilful, quick and cheap. Then we all went 
 together to the Presbyterian Sunday School 
 Convention, or a session of it, and listened to 
 several speakers in succession giving their private 
 version of the reasons why a preference for two 
 different sets of text books had divided their 
 
 [128] 
 
EASTER 
 
 body into opposing factions, and realized that 
 these problems though different in detail were 
 much the same the world over. We sneaked 
 out a little remorseful at having our vacation 
 broken into by reminders of things so common- 
 place and familiar. 
 
 [129] 
 
XII 
 
 HOSPITALITY AND CEREMONIAL 
 
 HE Japanese gentleman, Mr. Hidyo- 
 shi, who lunched with us, suggested 
 rather timidly that he had a beauti- 
 ful cherry tree in his garden and that 
 he would very much like to have us spend the 
 afternoon with his wife, if the proposition inter- 
 ested us. Having made one or two faux 'pas 
 early in our acquaintance through a failure to 
 grasp a few questions of Japanese etiquette and 
 class distinction, and knowing that acceptance 
 would please him and also probably prove inter- 
 esting to ourselves, we agreed. It was quite a 
 long drive out to his home and at the foot of a 
 hill our boys asked us "to take a little walk'* 
 — looking rather ashamed of having done so, 
 when they realized on whom we went to call. 
 On removing our shoes, — much to the relief 
 of the little maid who knew it must be done yet 
 feared to make the request — we were ushered 
 into a very American-looking study, with desk, 
 chairs and other furniture all complete, and 
 were received by our hostess who spoke only a 
 few words of our language. She sat on the edge 
 
 [130] 
 
STREET OF THE EMBASSIES AND GOVERNMENT 
 BUILDINGS OPPOSITE THE PALACE, TOKYO 
 
HOSPITALITY AND CEREMONIAL 
 
 of her chair looking very nervous and anxious, 
 so desirous of pleasing and making herself under- 
 stood that her poor little hands fairly crushed 
 each other in her lap. When we spoke of the 
 cherry tree and an interest in the garden, her 
 face brightened, she took courage and invited 
 us into the next room where we could see it 
 better. That room being truly Japanese she 
 felt more sure of her ground, and when we proved 
 our willingness to kneel on the futons around 
 the inevitable hibachi and drink tea in the way 
 to which she was accustomed, the timid little 
 creature fairly began to enjoy our visit. Sounds 
 from the nursery suggested that we might ask 
 to see the baby and she gladly produced 
 her eldest, a sturdy black-eyed, independent 
 young man just able to walk unaided and to 
 speak only a couple of words. I was nearly 
 betrayed into expressing my surprise when the 
 youngster demanded tea and was allowed to 
 drink his fill quite as a matter of course. We all 
 fell to playing with him and became so absorbed 
 that we forgot to go until there was just time 
 to get to the temple to see the famous fire-walk- 
 ing ceremony. 
 
 As his mightiness of Toledo immediately pre- 
 ceded us, we knew we had chosen the right 
 moment for our arrival and had the honor of 
 
 [1331 
 
HOSPITALITY AND CEREMONIAL 
 
 sitting at the same table while we all signed 
 the visitors' book, made believe drink the tea 
 that was offered — having already had more of 
 that beverage than was wise in one day — and 
 paid the two yen apiece that it was gently 
 insinuated was customary. The building was 
 already crowded, but our right of entry being 
 of cash and not that of membership in the church, 
 we were led around to a raised and covered 
 pavilion evidently built for the occasion just 
 far enough from the street wall so that escape 
 in that direction in case of fire would be impossi- 
 ble. A few Europeans and Americans seeking 
 like ourselves to satisfy curiosity were in our 
 immediate vicinity ; every other inch of available 
 space through which it would be possible to so 
 much as catch a glimpse, was filled with eager, 
 fanatical natives. Below in the center of the 
 court was an oblong shaped bed of coals about 
 six by ten feet in area, red hot, and with 
 two streaks of flame running parallel along its 
 length. White-cotton-robed priests, about a 
 dozen in number, bare-footed, were marching 
 round and round, exhorting either the gods, 
 the people or the flames in a sort of monotonous 
 chant, some waving fans and others throwing 
 salt on the flames. After about three quarters 
 of an hour of these preliminaries, and after 
 
 [134] 
 
HOSPITALITY AND CEREMONIAL 
 
 several testings to see if the heat were still too 
 intense, the priests rubbed their feet well in salt 
 and then marched through several times in 
 procession, always keeping in the same foot- 
 steps, some with very dramatic gestures. Mean- 
 time, with the never-failing "eye to the main 
 chance, " a boy had been flitting about, selling 
 charms — blessed salt done up in small packages 
 like flower seeds — to be carried by those who 
 wished to try the fire-walking. These began 
 to flock out by dozens and hundreds and form- 
 ing in line were privileged to go a few at a time, 
 fresh supplies of salt being brought out and 
 dumped in readiness for the feet in time for each 
 new lot. I could not help but think of the rosin 
 boxes supplied in bowling alleys for the unfortu- 
 nate possessors of slippery shoes. Two priests 
 stood on either side of the constantly changing 
 column, one waving a fan, the other striking 
 sparks from flint and stone, over the heads of 
 the faithful and muttering incantations as a 
 preventive for burnt feet. Men, women and 
 even children became so excited that they could 
 hardly be restrained from rushing pell-mell into 
 the fire. One mother, afraid to go herself, sent 
 her baby in the arms of a priest. A man, carry- 
 ing a child in his arms, put the little thing's 
 feet down into the bed of coals just before reach- 
 10 f 135 1 
 
HOSPITALITY AND CEREMONIAL 
 
 ing the far side and carried the shrieking child 
 away with a glorified expression of having done 
 all that mortal could for the sake of childish 
 ignorance. It was impossible not to respect 
 the faith and courage at the same moment as 
 we pitied the ignorance, smiled at the foolishness, 
 and blamed those who catered to all these for 
 their own gain. Such a mixture of feelings 
 is exhausting, and we made our way out at the 
 first opportunity, only to be surprised out of a 
 state of coma by the fervent hand-grips and 
 brotherly and sisterly good-byes of those who 
 had taken our money and now stood like guard- 
 ian angels (?) on either side of the door. Truly, 
 the spirit of this land is a baffling one, and I am 
 more than ever thankful for having read every 
 book of Lafcadio Hearn's that I could lay my 
 hands on this past month, for he alone seems to 
 have grasped the meaning of it all from the 
 unprejudiced standpoint of a sympathetic out- 
 sider. 
 
 A fitting end to our stay in Tokyo was our 
 excellent and home-like luncheon with Mrs. 
 Henderson and her son, and then an afternoon 
 at the Girls' Higher School — corresponding to the 
 Doshisha in Kyoto, except that they are better 
 equipped and take older pupils. There we visited 
 the buildings new and old in every nook and 
 
 [1361 
 
HOSPITALITY AND CEREMONIAL 
 
 corner, and then had tea with a charming group 
 of teachers, American and Japanese, in the Httle 
 house which was the home of two of them. 
 All were up to their eyes in planning the curricu- 
 lum for the session which was to open on the 
 morrow — commencement comes just before Eas- 
 ter here — but never too busy to welcome stran- 
 gers from over seas. An excellent example of 
 hospitality. 
 
 [137] 
 
T 
 
 XIII 
 FUJIYAMA 
 
 April eleventh. 
 
 HE private museum of Mr. Okura we 
 left till the last morning, and well it 
 was that we did so if we wished to 
 see anything else in Tokyo dur- 
 ing our short stay. In the most wonderful col- 
 lection, and to me the most interesting, that I 
 have ever seen, he combines examples of every 
 kind and period of Japanese art, all arranged with 
 exquisite taste and guarded by those who make 
 their care and appreciation a life study. Inof- 
 fensive, keeping in the background till addressed, 
 a demure little woman in her soft clinging 
 kimono with down-cast eyes, had an intelligent 
 answer for every question and fairly vibrated 
 with enthusiasm if we chanced to admire the 
 prize specimen in a case full of ivories or to 
 exclaim in surprise over the only example of 
 a certain variety of gold-lacquer work. What 
 joy to the designer to be able to go there day 
 after day to sketch, and the owner, strange to 
 say, is glad to have those who can appreciate 
 come there for inspiration. 
 
 [138] 
 
FUJIYAMA 
 
 The train had to be caught as it was just 
 forty-eight hours till the steamer sailed from 
 Yokohama, there were many final details to be 
 attended to besides repacking and we had post- 
 poned leaving Tokyo till the last possible minute. 
 We were even forced into cutting out the long 
 looked-forward-to trip to Nikko, partly owing 
 to the continued cold weather it is true, partly 
 from distaste for long railway journeys that had 
 to be made hurriedly, and also because Nikko's 
 art was more modern and appeared to be of the 
 variety that required leisure to enjoy. We also 
 had found our week in Tokyo all too short for 
 the things to be enjoyed — at this season espe- 
 cially. 
 
 The fast trains take less than an hour and run 
 frequently. On arrival, we were surprised not 
 only at the familiarity of everything as we drove 
 from station to hotel, but also to find that, after 
 all, Yokohama was a pleasant city. The Euro- 
 pean hats with native costume, the trolleys and 
 stone buildings had ceased to annoy because we 
 had stopped seeing them, and the change in 
 weather had not only brought a change in color- 
 ing to trees and flowers, but was equally marked 
 in shop windows and stalls which now seemed as 
 alluring as they had seemed unattractive before. 
 
 [1391 
 
FUJIYAMA 
 
 April thirteenth. 
 S. S. Korea. 
 
 Our one full day was to be devoted to out of 
 town excursions and in order to squeeze into it 
 as much as possible we secured an automobile 
 at the moderate sum of forty -five yen. We 
 started at 8 : 30 in a car belonging to the Oriental. 
 The chauffeur, very careful and a good driver, 
 spoke not a word of English, but had been in- 
 structed as to exactly where to go, and armed 
 with the word solo-solo (slower) in case of need, 
 we felt fully equipped and rather glad that we 
 were free to talk without having our conversa- 
 tion either listened to or interrupted. 
 
 The roads were fair and wound around hills, 
 past rice-fields, temples and villages, under 
 weeping willows and cherry trees, till it was hard 
 to believe the landscape was not fashioned for 
 our special pleasure. At the end of a couple 
 of hours, our driver said "Kamakura" and 
 stopped midway of the long tree-shaded avenue 
 that leads from the Temple of Hachiman (the 
 great war god) to the sea. We were well repaid 
 for climbing the steps as well as for the walk, 
 by the view obtained of town and water and 
 were soon threading our way in and out through 
 back streets until we finally drew up before an 
 
 [1401 
 
FUJIYAMA 
 
 unusually fine Dai-butsu (great Buddha) but, 
 as Miss Scidmore had warned us, badly located. 
 We secured a good picture of him before being 
 accosted by a small boy with a card on which 
 it was stated in precise English that taking 
 of photographs in the neighborhood was for- 
 bidden. As nothing further was done about it 
 we decided that it was a game of bluff to protect 
 the priests who had pictures for sale at the 
 entrance. We stepped inside but there was 
 nothing to see, so we bought some rice-cakes, 
 to stay the pangs of hunger (not yet felt) and 
 getting into the car again proceeded to the island 
 of Enoshima which is approached over a long 
 foot bridge, well exposed to the sun. In spite 
 of this, however, it is a most popular resort for 
 holiday-makers in hot weather. From here on 
 the ride to Miyanoshita, grew steadily more 
 beautiful until we finally reached the foot of 
 the hill up which we wound slowly and with 
 effort as the road is narrow and the ascent steep, 
 but in no place dangerous. We met no other 
 cars and only two vehicles drawn by horses, 
 but many large parties of school children carry- 
 ing their luncheons and accompanied by teachers. 
 History is taught on excursions. A few parties 
 in Kuruma or I should say with kuruma, as with 
 but two exceptions the parties thus provided 
 
 [1411 
 
FUJIYAMA 
 
 were "taking a little walk." Occasionally we 
 met a very uncomfortable man or woman in a 
 kago swaying and tossing from side to side. 
 For the hillside itself I am at a loss for adjectives. 
 Every known shade of green; cherry trees bud- 
 ding, in full bloom, and ready to fall ; red maples 
 budding and already leafed. When I finally 
 turned to A. and remarked that it would make a 
 lovely picture, I came to earth with a thud 
 at her answer — "if I saw a picture of it I should 
 call it a chromo!" Go and see for yourself and 
 be sure to go at spring time. 
 
 At the Fujiya Hotel we had a good lunch and 
 a new point of view. I approached the desk 
 before leaving and asked if I might pay for our 
 lunch. The cashier said "three yen" and then 
 asked in all seriousness, "did you have any 
 refreshment?" to which at my look of bewilder- 
 ment he added, "anything to drink?" 
 
 Wood carving is the mania in this locality 
 and many beautiful and curious forms it takes. 
 The secret boxes are so wonderfully exact as 
 to be difficult to open even after one knows the 
 secret. 
 
 We reached home in the late afternoon almost 
 thankful that sailing on the morrow would give 
 us time to fully digest all we had seen, heard and 
 
 [1421 
 
FUJIYAMA 
 
 felt before any new sensation could be forced 
 upon us. 
 
 Another mistake, for we had reckoned without 
 Fujiyama. That parting was still to be gone 
 through with. Those who sail away from Japan 
 without feasting their eyes on that largest and 
 grandest of her wonders never return, so legend 
 tells us. 
 
 The afternoon was so hazy that at first we 
 feared the omens were against us. Then we 
 began faintly to discern this huge mountain of 
 snow with its crater-like top, and as we drew 
 further away the outline grew clearer. The sur- 
 roundings melted until Fuji stood alone, his 
 feet buried in clouds, these again resting on the 
 water. We looked and looked feeling that now 
 was the time to make the impression indelible. 
 We must carry it away so fixed that we could 
 never lose it. Beautiful as it was, a greater 
 treat was in store for us, for with the setting sun, 
 this beautiful mass of snowy whiteness was 
 changed to molten gold. The distance grew 
 greater, the darkness deeper, until the vision 
 was finally lost to sight. With a sigh and a 
 feeling of loss we answered the bugle call and 
 went to dress for dinner. 
 
 143 
 
XIV 
 FAREWELL TO NIPPON 
 
 April twentieth. 
 AN this be really I?" I quoted from 
 the old woman in Mother Goose. 
 Never before have I renewed ac- 
 quaintance with any ship without 
 a feeling of keen disgust and an unsurmount- 
 able horror of sea-sickness. The Korea, with its 
 spotless cleanliness, its absolute freedom from 
 all odors, pleasant officers who do everything 
 for one's comfort without ever growing officious, 
 seemed like an old and well-met friend. The 
 passengers are fewer than on the way out, leav- 
 ing more deck-room and more freedom. The 
 ocean is like a mill-pond and even when occa- 
 sionally stirred by the winds the ship is so steady 
 and well ballasted that any who would complain 
 must indeed be looking for trouble. The B. 
 and G. are still on board and have made the 
 round trip. She now walks occasionally with 
 the other men, but they are as devoted as ever 
 and think as little of embracing in public as 
 when they started. If she says anything par- 
 ticularly pleasing, or makes a good shot at 
 
 f 144 1 
 
FAREWELL TO NIPPON 
 
 shuffle-board, he still throws his arms around her 
 and gives her a resounding smack. 
 
 There are a number of charming ladies on board 
 and one Irish Lady — not born, created. She and 
 her companion are our vis a vis at table so we 
 get full benefit. According to her own accounts 
 she was the "pet of the boat" when crossing 
 on the Princess Alice and is much disappointed 
 and pained at the lack of discernment on the 
 part of passengers and officers that such is not 
 her present position. Her idea of conversation 
 is to "catch" while others throw bunches of 
 flattery and no matter how thickly it is handed 
 out she is never satisfied, but swallows it whole 
 and returns promptly for more. The men are 
 all brave enough when introduced, but soon tire 
 and make their escape never to return. Her 
 capacity for exaggeration also is infinite and we 
 are grateful to the lady for much entertain- 
 ment — however unintentional. For instance, if 
 some one sends to offer the Captain a cocktail, 
 she tells how on the Princess Alice several were 
 sent to her room every night. That was ex- 
 plained by some one who knew her past as 
 being because her husband had the reputation 
 of never being sober after eleven o'clock of a 
 morning. Or if a lady at another table sent 
 the Captain a note, she used to have so many 
 
 [145] 
 
FAREWELL TO NIPPON 
 
 "billets doux" on the Princess Alice that she 
 would stick them in her belt and forget them and 
 when she removed her skirt they would fall like 
 a snow-storm. 
 
 For further diversion we had the "Mexican 
 Army," two very dapper and correct young men^ 
 one English, the other French, and both with 
 the monocle habit, who are said to be on their 
 way to Mexico to volunteer. I had about given 
 up my proposed trip there on account of the 
 disturbed state of the country, but every one 
 assures me that with them on hand I should 
 surely be quite safe. 
 
 Then we have a tall, thin, sick-looking couple 
 with haunted looking eyes, who claim to be 
 English but who have been nicknamed the 
 Russian refugees. 
 
 The Jay Bird, from Charleston, talks for hours 
 on scandal in New York high life, whispering^ 
 confidences on people whom I know much 
 better than he does and condescendingly sug- 
 gests I may have heard of them. 
 
 We are fortunate in our deck neighbors. On 
 one side a "perfectly good Mish," an attractive 
 American girl, with a sense of humor, who has 
 lived most of her life in South Africa, been 
 educated in England, is stationed in Heroshima 
 and is now on her way to spend her vacation with 
 
 [146] 
 
FAREWELL TO NIPPON 
 
 a grandmother in New Jersey ; on the other, two 
 Englishmen, father and son, poHshed gentlemen 
 both. The former having spent twenty -five 
 years in India and much travelled, is delightfully 
 cosmopolitan and thoroughly understands and 
 appreciates America and Americans. The son 
 is a nice boy, but hopelessly British so that we 
 find it rather difficult to stay in the same week 
 with him in conversation. 
 
 The only novelty so far has been the picking 
 up of the day we dropped into the ocean on the 
 way out, only it proved to be Thursday this 
 time so we had two of them. 
 
 April twenty-seventh. 
 
 Our day in Honolulu was so hot that we did 
 not do much besides a few errands and ride 
 around in trolleys and keep cool. 
 
 A horde of strangers came on board there and 
 the boat does not seem nearly so homelike. 
 All or nearly all the "first families" have 
 grouches, on account of having a third person 
 put in a cabin which was barely big enough for 
 two and there is a feeling of crowding everywhere. 
 The *' Mexican Army "could not bear the thought 
 of another room-mate or of "giving up" the 
 necessary amount for sole possession, and so 
 have left us. What is to become of Mexico? 
 
 [147 
 
FAREWELL TO NIPPON 
 
 As there are many young people they have a 
 dance every night on the upper deck, which 
 make the lounge and music room less crowded 
 than they otherwise would be. 
 
 One night a Chinese play by members of the 
 crew was well given and enjoyable. 
 
 The reports over the wireless of the appalling 
 disaster to the S. S. Titanic have horrified and 
 depressed the passengers, but it does not seem 
 to have caused any personal fear, probably 
 because with such calm seas and glorious sun- 
 shine it is hard to conceive a possibility of 
 danger on this truly pacific ocean. We were 
 promised two or three days of fog before reaching 
 the Californian coast, but even that has been 
 lacking. The fog-horn has only been heard as a 
 signal for fire-drill and as we see our native land 
 once more we feel that this voyage has been as 
 unique as it has been pleasant. 
 
 148 
 
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