x: / r ninny , iin-^-im > » ■ r > C^ J B artKoloiGew. Eim5 J £ ar(L6luro?, and a compliment to the horses and the country, you may obtain a deal of information, and often some capital and well-told stories full of salt and coideur locale, to beguile the way. The usual charges are 30r. to $2 a-day for a horse, not paying his keep ; and one dollar to the guide, without paying his feeding or lodgings. The price for a bed and- sup^^er at a venta is about from pes. 3 to pes. 5 a night in the South, and even cheaper in the North. Always allow the guide to settle about the inns to put up at, and the hours of starting, but attend yourself to tlie provend, and girt the saddle and see to the bridle and shoeing of your horse. As for robbers, none are to be found in Spain, but a revolver is a companion commanding respect. It will be as well to acquaint the riding tourist with several terms used in such exjieditions to design bridle-roads, etc. Trocha, a short cut out of the common road ; cami'no de herradura, bridle-road, literally horse-shoe road ; sendero or senda, a pathway — a way just marked out by the foot of the smuggler and labourer ; camino de fa-dices, road of par- tridges — difficult, found out rather by instinct than otherwise ; camino real or carretera, Government road — high road ; arrecifes, name given in Andalusia to high roads or causeways — chaussees ; travesia and camino de atajo, a short cut — a bye-way ; rambla, a sort of road ; or better, bed of river, which being dry in summer serves as a road, etc. The ordinary pace is 1^ league an hour. Mules are sometimes preferable to horses, ad having a better and steadier pace and surer foot. Side-saddles for ladies are recommended in preference to a chair, sometimes placed on one side, which, however, may be adopted, except where hUly districts are to be traversed. Return of horses and men is always understood in the bargain, where the contrary has not been speci- fied. The principal riding tours are in Andalusia and Asturias, and some in the Spanish Pyrenees. Where the country abounds in pictur- XIV GENERAL INFORMATION. esqne sceiiPiy, ami when undertaken in autumn or spring, this mode of travelling will prove a source of great enjoyment, of health and manly exertion. Without a ride in the South a voyage to Spain cannot he called complete, and we must say with Lord Byron — Though sluggards deem it but an idle chace, And marvel men should quit their easy chair, The toilsome way, and long, long league to trace. Oh ! there is sweetness in the mountain air, And life, that bloated ease can never hope to share. Posting is no longer resorted to now-a-days. Galeras. — Waggon-carts covered over, without springs, performing 7 or 8 leagues a-day, at a slow pace, and dragged by some 8, 10, or 12 mules. They stop for the night at the posada, ventas, or ventorillo. It is a very slow and fatiguing way of travelling, and riding is by far pre- ferable. Cycling tours are in many districts favoured by long stretches of Hat and excellent roads. They are e.sjjeciallj'' agreeable in Portugal and the N.W. Spain, and no longer excite undue curiosity. Passes are granted for six months at the frontier stations upon payment of pes. 1 and 85 c. per kilogramme on the machine weight, the latter, a fixed deposit, being returned if the cyclist leaves the country before the expiry of the six months. ' Sketches Awheel in Fin de Siecle Iberia ' (Workman : London, 189-7k) will be found useful for further information. STEAMERS. N. German Lloyd, the P. and 0., the Royal Mail, Cuuard, and Pacific Steam Co. have superior speed and accommodation. Messrs. Hall's steamers leave London weekly for Lisbon, Gibraltar, Malaga and Cadiz. Messr.s. MacAndrcAv's steamers run at frequent intervals to the principal ports on the Atlantic and Mediterranean. There is regular steam com- munication between Seville, Cadiz and Marseilles ; also between ]\rar- seille.'^ the east ports and Oran. The boats of the Compania Trasatlantica can be utilised for most of the ]\Iediterranean and western ports. The Spanish steamers, except those of the Trasatlantica, are neither fast nor comfortable. The caldns are called camnrofes de la, 2a, y 3 « clase. Children under three years of age do not pay ; from 3 to 7, only half-passage. The luggage allowed to each first and .second class passenger varies from 80 to 100 kilog. Meals are generally not included in the ticket ; 10 to 12r. a breakfast, and 14 to 16r. dinner. Yaclttmy. — The principal ports to visit are Bilbao, Gijon, Coruiia, Vigo {PortiKjal, Oi)orto, Lisbon), Seville, Cadiz, Gibraltar, Malaga, Ali- cante, Valencia, and Barcelona. The Commandante del Puerto is the chief authority. The best season is summer and autunm. PASSPORTS. According to decree of December 17, 1862, no passports are required h'om foreignei's entering Spain, or from Spaniards going to England or TRAVELLING. XV France. Foreigners are, liowever, liable to be called upon by local Spanish authorities to declare their nationality, and object of their jour- ney. Any document establishing the identity, or a declaration signed by two witnesses, residents at the place where it may be required, and purporting their knowledge of the traveller s name, will suffice. These are scarcely ever requii-ed ; but an English passport, vis4 by a Sjjanish Consul, is the safest companion. POST-OFFICE. Until tVie 15th century, news, letters, and Government orders were transmitted in Spain by horsemen, and more especially by foot messen- gers, andarines (pedestrians), like the hemerodromes of the Greeks, and the Roman cursores. Pliilip the Fair and his Queen Dona Juana were the first to establish posting regulations, and made the office of Maestro Mayor de Hostes, Postas y Correos, a very important one, which became hereditary. In the busy reigns of Charles V. and Philip II. this ajjpoint- ment was no sinecure, as couriers were always ' on the wing,' carrying orders to all parts of the world. Letters were entrusted to especial esta- fetas, but subsequently the Government couriers took charge of them. The first vehicles used were light carts (about 1642), and the first mail- coaches, sillas de Posta (jjostchaises), began to run in 1739. Offices were established only in the princijjal cities, and until 1759 only one distri- bution of letters made a week. The first daily post establishment be- tween Bayonne and Madrid was begun in 1844. Shortly after a diligence service was established, and we remember going from Madrid to Bayonne by that last means in six days, sleeping, haciendo noche, every night. Be- fore 1840 those about to undertake a journey in Spain called a priest, a doctor, and an Escribano, confessed, took medicine, and wrote their will. Letter-writing has of late years increased in proportion as letter-boxes have been established, the distribution made daily, and the stamps (sellos) di- minished in price. The total number of letters in 1 846 was 19,044,958 ; in 1897, 135,417,000. Letters. — Their delivery is well regulated, and, foreign letters some- times excepted, most of them end by arriving al puerto. Letters are never opened save during exceptional pronunciamiento moments and elec- tioneering time. Letters are addressed either to the correspondent's resi- dence, to which they are taken by the postman {el cartero), or left at the box till called for, poste restante, in Spanish Correo. Sr. Don stands for Sehor Don (usual mode of letter address) ; Pral. for Principal, the first floor ; 2°. the 2d floor ; dha. for derecha, door on the right ; izda. for izquierda. left. If writing to a foreigner, x>oste restante (write Lista del correo at the bottom of the envelope), omit as much as possible all such words as Chris- tian names, titles, Esq., etc., and confine yourself to writing very legibly the surname. This will avoid loss of letters, and the confusion often arising from the difficulties experienced by the Spanish post-office clerks in de- XVI GENERAL INFORMATION. ciphering English names, and besides it facilitates research, as all lettere addressed poste restante (correo) are sorted alphabetically, or according as they arrive. Sometimes the addresses are copied and exposed on boards at the post-offices. Let the tourist, who will visit this building before any other, look into these lists ; when he finds his name down, let him take the number corresponding to it, write it clearlj'-, and give it to an empleado. The passport is sometimes asked for, or in lieu an old letter- cover, or a card, will be sufficient to establish identity. We also advise tourists to go themselves to claim their letters, and also to post them, as ' les voyageurs ont toujours tort.' If staying any time in the same town, letters had better be addressed to the residence. A cuarto is then paid to the cartero for every letter or newspaper. There is also a coneo inte- rior distributed gratis in the town witli a 2-cuartos stamp. The address consists then of the Seiior Don, Christian name, surname, street, number, floor, etc., and at the foot ' correo interior.' Travellers and residents may also have a separate division for their letters, and an earlier delivery of them, by paying a fixed sum for this division, called el apartado — viz. pes. 60 per annum in Madrid ; pes. 50 in some large cities ; 25 or 20 pes. only in others. The charge for postage is by weight, irrespective of distance. The stamps are called sellos ; to frank, franquear ; an address, sobrescrito and las sehas. Vocabulary for the Post-Office, The office, el despacho. A letter, una carta. Postage-stamps, sellos del correo. A telegram, tm telegrama (or) %iii parte telegrafico. Where is the post-office ? Donde estd el correo ? Where is the telegraph-office ? Ddnde estd la oficina del teleg-rafo ? Are there any letters for me ? Kay cartas para mi ? Here is my name (or) passport. Este es mi apellido (or) pasaporte. Where is the list ? DOnde estd la list a ? Give me postage-stamps. Deme usted sellos de franqueo ; foreign stamps, sellos iiara el e.vtrun\iero ; Spanish stamps, sellos para el interior Is this letter too heavy ? Sobrepesa esta carta ? How much is it ? Cudnto vale ? Must this letter be prepaid ? Hay que franquear esta carta ? Will this telegram go to-day 1 Se puede Tnandar hoy este despacho f Is the office closed ? Ei^'d cerrado el despacho ? The postman. El cartero. TRAVELLING. XVU Stamp Tariff. Letters for the Peninsula and Isles. — 15 centimos for 15 grammes. But if within same town 10 cents, for any weight. Do. to England, France, Germany, Russia, and United States — 25 cents, for every 15 grammes. Newspapers — 5 centimos for every 50 grammes. Pamphlets and papers fastened with an open band (faja) for directing. — To any part of Spain 1 cent, for every 50 grammes. To England, France, etc., 5 centimos for every 50 grammes. Post-cards. — All parts 10 centimos. All letters must be prepaid, or they will be charged double. Fee for registration. — 25 centimos. N.B. — The letter-rate for Portugal and Gibraltar at present is only 10 c. per 15 grammes. Stamps are to be found at ali tobacconists (estancos). The boxes are called buwnes. Registered letters are called cartas certificadas, and require special stamps obtained at and from the Post-office. TELEGRAPH. Telegraphs began to be established about 1855, and now connect the whole country. The lines are all in the hands of the Government. There are day and night services in all the principal cities. A tele- gram, un despacho telegrdfico, may be written in French, but we advise correspondents in Spain to write theirs in Spanish. The tariff is as follows : — For messages of 1 5 words, including address and signature, for any part of Spain 1 peseta ; for every word beyond fifteen 10 cents. (For places within the same province only half these rates are charged.) For telegrams to France, 20 centimos per word, with a tax upon each message — liable to variation — of about 1 peseta 50 cents. To England, 44 cents, per word, with a tax of about 2 pesetas upon each message. Special telegraph stamps are required ; they may be obtained either in an adjacent office or in an estanco. Every word put down — address, signature, etc. — is counted ; also all syl- lables or words connected by a hyphen or apostrophe. The maximum extension of a word for European correspondence is fifteen characters, for extra-European ten characters. The writer of a message, by paying the cost of a telegram of ten words, may obtain from the office with which he is communicating an "acuso de recibo," by which he may know y^viii GENERAL INFORMATION. whether his telegram has been received at the office to which it was seut. He has then to add after the text, and before the signature, the words, Acuso de recibo.' By putting in the same place the words, * Colecci- onese,' and by paying over again half the cost of the telegram, he will obtain a duplicate of it sent by the office to which he transmits it. For an answer- paid, he will write in the same place ' repuesta (so many) palab- ras.' A receipt is always given by the olEce clerk to the telegram writer. The carriage of a telegram to the residence of the parties to whom it is addressed is 2r. Telegrams can be sent poste restante (* correo *) and fol- low the tourists who have informed the postmaster of the place they are going to, etc. HOTELS AND LODiJINGS. A hotel is generally called La Fonda (from fondak, Arabic^, a cara- vanserai). Posada (rest, repose, which it seldom affords) is the hotel at small country places, of carriers, and is but a degree higher than a meson, the arrieros' usual inn. A Venta is a bye-way meson, where the accom- modation and food are equally bad. A Ventorro and Ventorillo are mere roadside pot-houses, where a bed is seldom to be found. La Tahertia is the cabaret, the wine-shop. A Fonda is called sometimes a Parador, from its being the inn where diligences stop {-parar) for meals at differ- ent hours : lodging, meals (with wine), and service are usually included in the price. The charges in large cities vary from 10 to 15 pes., but 12 pes. may be taken as an average. The table d'hote {mesa redonda) is generally resorted to, although the company is often of a mixed char- acter. To put on a good face and pass on the dish to a neighbour is the surest way to avoid remarks and a bad dinner. The cuisine is now-a- days al estilo de Francia, and does not deserve the critique of the fastidious traveller : at the good hotels the food is excellent, and quite devoid of the proverbial garlic and oil. The table wine supplied should be drunk with caution, excellent varieties being now supplied from the 'carte' at a low price. It is not usual to take either tea or coffee in the hotel, save at the early breakfast (desayuno), which is almost in- variably served in the bedrooms. Tips are universally expected. There are in cities casas de 2)i'pdos and de huespedes, or lodgings, where meals at mesa redonda are included. The terms vary from 20r. to 34r. a-uay. A very comfortable room can be obtained for 20r. a-day. Those that are to let have a piece of white paper placed on a corner of the balcony. When not furnished, the paper is placed in the middle. Living is in this latter way exceedingly cheap. Indeed, by knowing how to manage, an economical bachelor (and there are such beings in the world) can live at the rate of .£8 to £10 a-month. Young ai-tists who have to make their way in the world, and to whom economy is a great object, often refrain from a journey to this laud of art. from fear of the GEOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS. XIX expenses of travelling. This consideration should not deter them. Let them travel two or three together, learn a few of the most useful phrases in Spanish ; they can go 2d class by steamers from England to Cadiz. There, if tliey do not prefer the railway, and wish to see the scenery at leisure, they will purchase mules for £20 each, which will be sold for £15 ; and by roughing it a little, joining the arrieros, etc., they will be able to live for 4s. a-day, keeping besides the macho. M. Desbarolles, a French painter, went thus with a brother artist all over Spain, and pub- lished his tour, ' Deux Artistes en Espagne.' Geography and Statistics. Spain is situate between north lat. 36° — 43° 47', and west long. 9° 17' to east long. 3° 20'. Its greatest length, from east to west, is 560 miles, and breadth, from north to south, 540 miles Eng. The surface contains 193,000 sq. miles (three times more than England). The longest days and nights are — in the northern portion, of 15 hrs. 15 min., and in the south, of 14 hrs. 30 min. Geographical division, based on climate, is out of the question in a country that contains such variety of temperature under the same degree of latitude : that based on the physical configuration is caser. According to Mr. Bory de St. Vin- cent, Spain may be divided into seven distinct chains of mountains : — 1. Pyrenoean — Comprises the Pyrenees, and the Asturian or Cantabric range. 2. Iherian — Contains the Sierra de Molina, Moncayo, Oca, Albar- razin, and Cuenca, which form that vast reservoir from which the foui largest rivers flow into the ]\Iediten'anean and the Atlantic ocean — namely, Guadalaviar or Turia, Cabriel, Jucar, and the Tagus. The Sierra de Espadan rises here also, extending to the sea-coast. 3. Carpetano-Vettonian — Constituted by the reunion of the Sierras de Guadarrama and Somosierra, which thus divide the Castiles. It com- prises also the group of the Gredas hills, Sierra de Gata, extending to Portugal. Here are especially found those immense, denuded, wind- blown table-lands called paramos, which have a great influence on this climate. 4. The Lmitanian zone is the lowest and less important of all the Sierras, and belongs more especially to New Castile and Estremadura. It is placed between Somosierra on the north, the Molina and Cuenca ranges to east and south-east, Guadarrama to north-east, and Sierra Morena to south. 5. Marian (Montes Mariani) is constituted by the Sierra Morena. It is the most metalliferous of all in Spain. 6. Cunoian — Formed by the range of hills that extend from Porta legre, towards the south, between the Alemtejo and Algarv'es. It is but a prolongation of the Lusitauian zone. h XX GEXEltAL INFOlt.MATlON. 7. The Bcetican comprises the extreme southern or Aiulalu.sian poi- lion — namely, the ranges of Romla, Alhania, Tejada, and Sierra Nevada Thus the wliole country, a vast agglomeration of mountains, com- jiarable to a gigantic pyramid half-way severed, rises on an average in the central portions 2000 to 3000 ft. above the sea (the central table- land is about 93,000 square miles). There are valleys situated con- siderably above 6000 ft. These lofty ranges, were they seen from a baloon, would give one the idea of the mighty skeleton or carcase of a shipwrecked leviathan, whose bones protrude through the tawny skin and verdant soil. These intersect the surface in every sense, and have been most effective in creating differences of race, laws, and history. Rivers. — The Ebro rises near Reynosa, flows for 450 miles, and empties its waters into the Mediterranean near Amposta. The Diierc (Douro in Portuguese) rises in the Sierra de Urbion, north of Soria ; flows by Zaniora for 460 miles, and is emptied into the Atlantic below Oporto. The Tagus (el Tajo) rises in the hills of Albarrazin, and after a course of 600 miles, flows into the Atlantic at Lisbon. The Guadiana rises in the Mancha, near Almagro, crosses Estreinadura, and flows — after a course of 520 miles — ijito the ocean at Ayamunte. The Guadalquivir rises in the gorges of Sierra de Cazorla, then, after a course of 400 miles, empties itself into the Atlantic near Cadiz. There are besides 60 to 70 minor ones, with thousands of tributaries. The beds of rivers in Spain are generally dry in summer, and become torrents in tlie winter and spring. Canals. — Cayial Imperial de Aragon, begun in the reign of Charles III., formed with the waters from the Ebro, navigable from El Bocal to Alnienara, and beyond used only for irrigation. Canal of Castile, 152 kil. long, from Alar del Rey to Valladolid ; navigable ;' begun 1753. Canal of San Fernando, not comjileted : the oljject is to make all the Guadalquivir navigable. Caiial de la Albufera (Valencia) not concluded ; 30 kil. long ; begins at Sueca. Canal de Urgel, for irrigation. Canal de Isabel II.; the most important ; the object, to supply iladrid and the pro\dnces M-ith water. Canal de Esla, begun in 1864 by English engineers, and finished in tlie (for Spain) remarkably short space of five years, for irrigation purposes. Spain was formerly divided into fourteen large provinces, called by different names — Rcinos (kingdoms), Senorios, Principados, etc. In 1841 this classification disa])peared, and the country is now divided into forty- nine provinces. The i)rovinces are : Alava, Albacete, Alicante, Almeria, Avila, Badajoz, Balearic Islands, Barcelona, Burgos, Caceres, Cadiz, Canary Islands, Castellon, Ciudad Real, Cordova, Coruna, Cuenca, Gerona, Cranada, Gaudalajara, Guipuzcoa, Huelva, Huesca, Jaen, Leon, Lerida, Logrouo, Lugo, Madrid, Murcia, Malaga, Navarra, Orense, Oviedo, Palencia, Pontevedra, Salamanca, Santander, Segovia, Seville, Soria,, GEOLOGY. XXI Tarragona, Teruel, Toledo, Valencia, Valladolid, Vizcaya, Zamora, Zara- goza. It is ecclesiastically divided into nine arcbbislioprics and forty- six bishoprics, and militarily into seventeen Capitanias-Generales. The PopulaHon amounted in 1897 to 19,200,000, or 100 inhabitants to the square mile. In the reign of Philip II. it was only 8,206,791. The standing army numbers 120,000 men ; the navy comprises 126 ships (7 ironclads) with 356 guns, 14 torpedoes, and about 22,000 men. For details on the trade, education, and everything connected with statistics, we refer our readers to the 'Anuario Estadistico de Espaiia,' which is published annually ; to the ' Eevista de Estadistica,' published at Madrid and Barcelona ; to Sr. Garrido's excellent ' Espagne Contemporaine,' and to the recent Boletins. Maps. — The best maps of Spain are those published by Sr. D. Francisco Coello. His Atlas of Spain and Ultramarine possessions, on the scale of -o-jj-ijmroi is fairly complete. The map of Spain, ordered by Government and entrusted to an especial Commission of Officers, is far from being finished. We recommend Cabanes' map, found in his ' Guia General,' useful as a general travelling-map ; but those who seek for more details and gi'eater exactitude, those travelling in especial districts, riding or walking tourists, \\t.11 do well to provide themselves wdth the Atlas of Madoz's Dictionary. Monsieur Dufour has also published separate maps of provinces, with routes. We recommend also, ' Dic- cionario Geografico-estadistico Historico ' of Madoz and Coello, 1 6 vols. 4to. Madrid 1848-50. Its price is high, but the contents are of great value and the statements are generally trustworthy. The Mapa Itiiierario Militar is detailed and fairly accurate, but shows no mountain ranges. Of the Pyrenees — M. Lezat's general map (Paris, Chaix), or that drawn up by the French Military Engineers. Geology. It would be a mistake to suppose that Spain is ter7-a incognita to geolo- gists. Many regions there are, doubtless, where the hammer has not as yet sounded, but many more have been studied with care and intelli- gence, as well by native geologists as by foreign, and the list of works we subjoin will leave little doubt on the subject. According to the savants who have explored this country, Spain is a most interesting field, and the study of its geological formations of a nature to enrich the science generally. Bounded on the N. by the Pyrenees and Cantabric range, Spain is traversed obliquely, from E.N.E. to W.S.W., by four orological systems or ranges, viz. — I. The Sierra Guadarrama, which is joined to the Sierras de Gredas, Gata, Estrella, and extends to the ocean. 2. The Montes de Toledo. 3. Sierra Morena, forming the promontory to S.W. called Cape St. Vincent. 4. The Southern range, which comprises the Xxii GENERAL INFORMATION. Siena Nevada, Tejada, aiul Ronda. They are, of course, of different periods. The earliest are in tlie centre of the Peninsula — viz. Montes of Toledo and Sierra Morena. This nucleus is entirely palaeozoic. No portion of tlie secondary period is noticeable, not even the oldest triassic limestone. The carboniferous deposits are situated on the southern part of the range. They generally contain in the lower portion limestone, with fossils ; among them the Productus semireticalatus. The coal is found with conglomerates and limestone. The most important deposits are those of Belmez, Espiel, and Villanueva del Rio, near Seville. As in Asturias, the strata are raised and ol'ten vertical. Devonian rocks are well de- veloped in the N. and S. of Alniaden, and appear alternately with Silurian strata. The fossils are found in grit and limestone, more rarely in schists. The principal are : Productus subaculeatus, Zeptcena dutertrii, Sjnrifer verneili, Spirigera concentrica, etc The upper Silurian rocks are not so fully represented as the Devonian. There are traces some 19 miles N.E. of Cordova. But the lower Silurian rocks are well characterised in this range and the Montes de Toledo. They follow an ascendant direction, N. to S. The lower strata are composed of schists and prammites, then comes a thick mass of quartzite, not unlike the Stiperstone found near Caradoc. This rock forms the summits or edges, extending from E. to W., and also 10° to 15° N., 10° to W., or 15° S. At their base are situated the rich qiiicksilver mines of Almaden. The Silurian fossils are found in dark-coloured schists. The trilobites are better preserved ; the principal are : Calymenetristani, Asaphus nobilis, Dalmania, Phillipsia, etc. 1. Guadarrama Range. — Towards the S. and E. slopes Ciirboniferous schists are met, especially near Tamajon, Valdesotos, Retienda, and Sierra of Burgos, where there are also traces of vegetable fossils (ferns). Fossil deposits are found also on the way from Hinarejos (province of Cuenca) to the coal-mines of El Vapor, at the points called ' El Castel- lano,' and ' El Cerro del Hierro ' (the Devonian rocks contain iron here as well as in the Cantabric range). The principal fossils are : Dalmania {cryphceus) CuUiteles, Spirifer, Terebratula guerangeriy Leptcena mur- chisoni, etc. The Guadarrama range crosses obliquely the great central plateau of Spain. It is one of the highest and largest in this country. The gneiss and other crystalline schists that compose it are often mixed with granite. These represent some of the earliest rocks in Spain. According to Sr. Cas. del Prado, the crystalline rocks are crowned, to- wards the east, by schists and quartzite rocks, Silurian in all likelihood. Bilobites and saccharoid limestone are found. The strata of limestone which flank the Sierra have been by oscillation raised and again distorted by another, posterior to the miocene period ; and this exijlains the derangement of the deposits of that epoch. The ranges that frame th<> Peninsula to north and soutii are the most modern. GEOLOGY. xxm The Jurassic rocks are not generally as well represented as the tertiary deposits and limestone. Those in the province of Cuenca, Va- lencia, of Burgos, etc., are interesting. A very rich region of Jurassic fossils is situated north of Molina ; and beyond the Silurian axis of , Pardo-s, Concha, Anchuela del Campo, Llaranchon, etc., are worth visit- ing. All the species belong to the lias, and none indicate the presence of Oxfordshire rocks. There are 104 Jurassic fossils in Spain. The lias and Oxfordshire stages are found in the j urassic formation. The latter extend over the east and south portions of Spain — Catalonia, Valencia, Malaga, Ronda — and lie upon red sandstone. Tlie Cantabric range, or prolongation of the Pyrenean system. — Here Devonian rocks contain great Palaeozoic riches. The Devonian period would seem to have been accompanied by great displacements of the sea, for the deposits are often of sandstone and conglomerates. Red sandstone, in thick masses, seems to be the base in Spain of the Devonian system. They are impregnated with iron ; whence the establishments of Mieres in Asturias, and of Sabero in Leon. The sandstone rocks are surmounted with thick calcareous rocks, which form those sharp indented peaks of so picturesque an effect in the plains of Castile. The road from Leon to Oviedo is very interesting to geologists. The districts that are richer in fossils are : Sabero in Leon, and Ferrones and Aviles in Asturias. Of these three there are about seventy-seven species known. They are indicative of the base of the Devonian formation, and constitute the German 'Jiingere Grauwacke.' The iqjper portion of this series is composed of red limestone. There are also schists near Sabero and the fossil Cardium palmatum. The Devonian rocks extend over most of the south portion of the Cantabric range, in the province of Leon. Its fuller development is to\vards the north region of Asturias, and lies to the east xinder the carboniferous strata. The longitudinal axis of the P}Tenees is surrounded by cretaceous deposits. On the north slopes, from Font- arabia, across San Sebastian to Cape Penas, the sea-coast is flanked by limestone cliffs, the strata sink imder the sea, rise against the Cantabric axis, not without irregidarity and dislocations. From north to south the cretaceous deposits extend 112 m. These aboimd mostly in the north of Spain, and are seldom met in the south, excej)t near Malaga. The most important carboniferous deposits in Simin are situated on the two slopes of this range, especially in Asturias. The base is formed by thick limestone, very like Devonian rocks, and not unlike the scar limestone in the north of England. Above this there are some thin banks of tlie same alternately foimd with the first coal strata. Li these are found well- preserved marine fossils, such as the Productus semireticulatus, Produciiis pundatus, Productus cora, Spirifer mosquends, etc., and the Fusulina ajlindrica. The fossil plants belong to the ordinary flora found in most carboniferous deposits. Above are conglomerates and sandstone mixed XXIV GENERAL INFORMATION. with clay schists, to a depth of 2000 or 3000 metres. Tliere are more than 80 coal-beds. The st rati ti cation is iiTegular, and the strata often raised up to a vertical position. The Nalon traverses the richest por- tion. The limestone, which forms the base, rises to the summits of the Cautabric or Asturian range, and constitutes tlie hills of Cabrales, Covadouga, the picachos (or peaks) de Europa, as far as the sea, near Ribadesella, then continues to the cast by the province of Saiitander and Palencia. According to several distinguished geologists Qih. Forbes, etc.), Ireland must have been once joined, or very nearly so, to Spain, and to that cause is ascribed the similarity between portions of the flora and fauna of these two countries. Heights of the Principal Ranges. Spanish Pyrenees, East. Peak Ncthou, ii,i68 ft. Monte Perdido, 10,994 ft. La Maladetta, 10,866 ft. Pass d'oo, between valleys of Larbouste and de Lassera (Vcnasque), 9843 ft. Pass of Bielsa, between valleys of Neste d'Hune (Aragon), and of Fuer- tolas, S396 ft. Spanish Pyrenees, West, or Cantabric {Asturian) Range. Pena de Peiiaianda (Leon), 11,031 ft. (?) Peak of Peiiamerata, 9450 ft. Cum de Poyales (Santander), 4559 ft. Sierra 3Torena. Puerto del Rey (Piov. of Jaen), 2251 (auth. Betancourt). Giiadarraiiia. Penalara (Segovia), 8240 (auth. Bauza). Monte del Leon de los 2 Castillas (Prov. of i\Ladiid), 4657. Cum de Mondalindo (Prov. Guadalajara), 6045 (auth. Bauza). Peak of Sierra Cebollera (Prov. Soria), 6929 (auth. Conde de Villa Fuentes). Siete Picos (Segovia), 7298 (auth. Bauza). Sierra Nevada. Mula Hacen (Granada) 11,703 ft. Picacho de la Veleta (Granada), 11,441 ft. Cerro de la Alcazaba, 11,356 ft. Sierra Gador, 7130 ft. Lower line of snow on Sierra Nevada (i5lh August 1804), 9064 ft. (auth. R. Clemente. Penas Blancas, 7605 ft. For other hciRhls of Sierr.i Nevada see page 202. See also for a more ample list of heiglits, that published about iS^i by the Soci^td de Geo- graphic of Paris, in 'Orologie Fran^aise' ; also the figures given by Mr. Chas. Packe. Hilbao, 73 ft. I'urgos, 2873 ft. Kscnrial, 3683 ft. Granada, 2681 ft. IlmClIT OF SOME ClTIIiS. flibraltar (Rock;, 294 ft. I .Segovia (C.istle), 22yg if Jerez, 571 ft. Valencia, 95 ft. Madrid. 238.) ft. I Zaragoza, 899 f'. Murciu, 447 ft. ' MINES XXV Books of Reference. — J. B. Can-asco's ' Gcografia general de Espaiia ' (iS6i), contains a general account of the geology of the country. ' Spain,' in Sampson Low's ' Foreign Countries ' gives also a good brief sketch of the subject. The geologist will find in the Boletin and Memoires of the ' Comision del Mapa Geologico de Espafia,' published in yearly volumes, sketch maps and careful descriptions of the geology of most of the provinces, with a great deal of useful topographical information. Many of these can be bought separately. The best Geological Map of Spain is that of Botella (Madrid, 1880). On the geology of Galicia and the Asturias a splendid work has been published by M. Charles Barrois (Lille, 1882). On the geology of the Pyrenees there are numerous papers, and a geological map of the Basque country in the ' Bulletins of the Societe Ramond V.Y.' (Bagneres de B'lgorre), and in the ' Bulletins of the Societe Geologique de France,' by P. W. Stuart Menleath. The above are new and reliable books of reference ; but there are older works which, if somewhat behind recent investigations, the student may pro- fitably consult. The following may be mentioned :— 1. Vernenifs ' Coup d'oeil sur la Constitution ge'ologique de plusieurs Provinces de I'Espagne ' (Paris, 1853). ■^^' Verneuil was a collaborateur with Sir Roderick Murchison, and his large and complete geological map of Spain is still of great value. 2. Ezqiierra del Bay : 'On the Geology of Spain,' Qtiarierly Journal, vol. vi., 1850. By the same author, ' Estructura Geologica de Espana,' i7/£wm«j de la Real Acadeviia de Ciencias de Madrid, 1 850, vol. ix. 3. The ' Memoirs of the Barcelona and Madrid Academy of Sciences ; ' the * Dictionaries ' of Madoz and Miiiano, etc. 4. Hajisniann : ' De Hispanice Constitutione Geognostica Dissertntio' (Gottingen, 1829) ; also his papers ' Sur la Constitution Geologique de I'Espagne ' in the Annales des Mines, 2d series, vol. iii., p. 375. 5. Wilkomvi's ' Die Strand,' etc., on the Steppes of the Peninsula (Leipzig, 1852) contains a map which botanists may also find useful. Mines. The milling wealth of Spain has been always far famed. The Pha>- nicians were the first people wlio worked the exhausLless mines of Tarshish (Andalusia), and the accounts of writers such as Strabo (Ijook iii.), Ovid, Siculus, Justin, Pliny, etc., do but confirm, if it were needful, the descriptions of the Spanish mines which we find in Scriptui'e (I Mace. viii. 3 ; 1 Kings x. 21 ; Jer. x. 9, etc.) Love of gold has been often, almost alwaj's, the prime mover of all projects of conquest, war, and discovery, and Spain was the Peru of the Phoenicians and Romans. When America was discovered, a narrow policy prohibited the working of the Spanish mines, and exclusively favoured those of the New World. The quicksilver mines of Alnuxden were exempted, because they sent to Mexico yearly 5000 to GOOO quintals of ore (quintal — lOg lbs.), neces- XXVI GENERAL INFORMATION. sary for the extraction of tlie precious metals. Govenuiieiit had the monopoly of mines until 1820, when it ceased. The jDrecious metals imported by the Government from America between 1492 and 1803 amounted to the value of ninety millions of dollars, according to Humboldt and Ustariz. The consequent stimulus given to the mining interest was soon felt. Thus, before 1820, the Royal oficinas only pro- duced 30,000 to 40,000 quintals a-year. In 1823 the produce rose to 500,000 qumtals. In 1824 the mining legislation was assimilated to that of France. In 1826 there were more than 3500 mines being worked in the Sierras of Gadar and Lagar alone, and in 1827 the produce exceeded 800,000 quintals. Mining schools {Escaelas de Minas) were established at Almaden and ^ladrid. Several young men were sent to study the most approved systems at Freyberg, in Saxony, etc. Foreign capitalists have undertaken the workuig la es2^lotacio7i of several of the richest mines ; foreign machinery, worked by foreign miners, has been introduced, and the wealth derived has been very considerable. The mining fever or mania commenced to rage here about 1825, just when it was in the wane in England. Many, most indeed, of the managers of the companies formed in the outset were ignorant, rash, over-confident^ and in many cases dishonourable. Comj)anies became hotbeds of law- suits and compromises, and, like the augurs of old, two managers could not meet each other without a laugh. This mania has subsided into a more business-like system, and the lesson has been profitable to all. The importation of Spanish ores to England is very considerable. Almost all the mercury supplied to England is derived from Spain — from the great Almaden deposits. Although Spain now exports minerals to a very large and daUy increasing amount, the production might be enormously enhanced were tramways and roads established. The improved processes for smelting, etc., will also augment the produce. Thus recently the Spanish homo economico (economical furnace) has been substituted for the slag hearth, etc. ; by this a better produce of lead is obtained fi'om the refuse products of the mines. Again, a great deal of lead and silver is saved by Pattinson's desilvering process ; and when Mr. Burnett applied suc- cessfully the process introduced by Mr. Richardson at Blaydon (liard lead converted into soft lead by calcining) to the softening of Spanish lead, this discovery led to a very extensive trade between England and Spain. The ores on the east coast of Sjiain are smelted with Newcastle coal, and the hard lead is brought to England to be there softened and refined. Our annual imports are about 25,000 tons, mostly from Linares. This Linares lead contains but a small quantity of silver, but many Spanish lead mines are exceptionally argentiferous. There is also in)portation into England from Spain of cupreous pyrites, used by alkali makers for the manufacture of sulphuric acid. MINES, XXVU In 1860 there were in Spain 1988 productive mines — that is, that were worked — occupying an area of 220,389,352 square metres. There were 3294 pez-fe/tewciV/s, or rights of mining properties. 28,554 work- men employed, and thirty-nine steam-engines. The produce was : — Principal Metric Principal Metric Mines. Quintals. Mines. Quintals. Iron . . . Almeria i,753>029 Barilla . . Madrid 175,573 Lead . . . Almeria 3,168,189 Antimony . Zamora 600 Silver . . . Guadalajara 42.300 Zinc . . . Santander 1,088,022 Copper . . Huelva 1,460,034 Quicksilver . Oviedo 80,402 Lignite . . Guipuzcoa 175.309 Asphalte . . Alava 6,280 Pit-coal . . Oviedo 3.217.731 Manganese . Huelva 288,628 Sulphur . . Murcia 230,450 How much these figures have altered in thirty-five years may be gathered from the fact that the Rio Tinto mines, near Huelva, alone raise over a million tons of cupreous pyrites in the year ; in 1896 the export of iron ore from Bilbao was 4,716,965 tons; while the produce of quicksilver at Almaden during the year 1884 amounted to 43,100 frascoes, or 1,487,266 kilogrammes. (This exceeds the production of the famous Californian mines by over 11,000 frascoes. Since 1884 the production has remained almost stationary.) Hellin produces a variable quantity — sometimes up to 1000 tons per annum — of sulphur. Salt, a great monopoly, amounts to 3,916,919-02 quintals, value of 28,000,000 pes. The total revenue of the Government from its own mines, and contributions from others, amounts to about 35,000,000 pe.s. The miner and mineralogist should ^^sit principally the mines of Almaden, Linares, Rio Tinto, Logrosau, the salt pans of Minglanilla, the coal-fields of Gijon, and marble quarries of Granada and MacaeL The best season is spring and summer. An order from the Ministerio de Fomento will be requisite to \'isit the Government establishments. The collection at the Madrid ^luseo de Historia Natural is one of the finest in Europe, and that of the Escuela de Minas at Madrid will not fail to interest mineralogists. Books of Reference. — ' The Anales de Minas.' Sullivan atid O'Reilly : 'On the Province of Santander.' London, 1863. Goetschmann : ' Bergbaukunst.' Leipzig, 1866. Botella : ♦ Descripcion Geologica Minera de las Provincias de Murcia of Albacete.' Madrid, 1868. Von Groddeck : ' Lagerstatten der Erze.' Leipzig, 1879. /. A. Phillips: 'Ore Deposits.' London, 1884. Nordenstrom : ' Berg und Huttenmoenische Zeitung.' 1886- 1887. P. IV, Stua7-t Menteath : ' Sur les gisements metalliferes des Pyrenees Occidentales.' Bulletin Soc. Geol., France, 1886. Also numerous later papers on the mines and geology of Navarre and Guipuzcoa. XXVni GENERAL INFORMATION The Annual Commercial and Consular Reports for Spain. (London.) Various papers in the Revista Miiiera and in the ' Boletin de la Comision del Mapa Geologico de Espaiia.' The older works which may be consulted, but which need continual correc- tion by reference to recent researches and operations, are : — Bmvles: 'Natural History of Spain. ' Hoppensack : 'Carte des Filons d'Almaden.' C. de Prado: ' Minas de Almaden' (Madrid, 1S46). J. E. de Bayo: ' Apuntes,' etc. Lcplay : 'Observations sur I'Histoire Nat. et la Richesse Mincrale de I'Espagne' (Paris, 1834). Cavtalapiedra : ' Guia del Minero.' The existence of gold mines in Spain is an old and favourite dream with Spaniards. Besides the supposed California said to be hidden in the barrancos near Granada there are other portions of the Peninsula that have attracted attention. See many papers in the Revista Minera by Maestre, Naranjo y Gaza, etc.; also Viadera's ' Terrenos auriferos de la Prov. de Leon.' See also Burat's ' Sur la Terrain metallifcre de I'Espagne,' in the Iiistiiiit, 1846. Climate. The climate of Spaiti has not Leon as yet suflicieiilly .«tiulied. It is superior in all respects to that of Italy, being more southern, more sheltered from the north winds by the elevated sierras running east and west, and characterised by a more bracing, genial atmospliere. If we classify the more important medicarometrical observations are no doubt very reliable indicators of the climate, but statistics in Sj^ain are not sufficiently advanced to allow us to gather any series of data. Latitude, again, is not always the only ride to go by. Altitu ^2/13/6 £91^7/3 Property is very little divided, and some estates in the province of Cadiz amount to 36,000 aranz., in which 800 mules plough the land, and are valued about £160,000, such as that of Enrile and Velazquez. The wages are 4 to 8r. (lOd. to Is. 8d,) a day ; the produce 4 to 5 per cent. T/te Viiie.'"' — Spain possesses a soil especially suited to its cultivation, and though gTo\VB all over the country', this is its native district. The diflerent modes of cultivating it were introduced by tlie Romans. The ground is first dee^ily ploughed, then large and deep hoyos (pits), two to three yards distant, are dug, the intervals being shorter if the soil is turned with the pickaxe. Wine is produced in two and a half to four years after the planting, an aranzada yielding froni 80 to 300 arrobas of grape, con- stituting a carffa, or load ; that is, 8 arrobas of grape produce 3 arrobas of wine. In some parts, however, 2 arrobas of grape make 1 of wine (an arroba, 3-J gallons). The cost of vintage (vendeja) — treading (pisa) yielding the most (arregio de mosto) — averages 3r. (7d.) per carga. The vineyards axe guarded by sheds and turrets, just as in Numbers xxii. 26. * for fuller particulars on Spanish wine, see page xliv. AGRICULTURE — ORANGE-TREES. XXXIX The Olive grows eveiywhero in Spain, but more especially in the region of the south. The most celebrated are in Cordova, the olivares of Calera, Lucena, and Montoro in the province of Jaen ; those of Andujar, BaUen, and La Aldea ; those in the neighbourhood of Granada are also excellent ; howbeit, the Sevillauas bear the palm. Tlie cultivation, is ill understood. The best soil for the olive is that where limestone prevails, and the best species is the cornicabra. A fanega (l|^ bushel) of olives gives 15 to 18 lbs. of oil. An aranzada produces 12 arrobas, which make 325 lbs. of oil ; this is the minimum type. The value of 12 arrobas produced by an aranzada is 550r., the cost to produce them 350r. The liquid amount is about 1200r. (£12 : 10s.) ; each olive-tree gives half-a-fanega of olives per year, and the aranzada 20 to 25 ; but trees are known to yield as much as 8 and more. They are planted in rows ; a branch is cut in January, the end opened by four slits ; it is then planted, banked, and watered for two or three years, and pruned into four or live branches. They begin to produce at the eighth year, but twelve and eighteen are necessary to reach the highest produce. The berry in the central and northern regions of Spain dues not ripen till the end of December, but in Andalusia early in the autumn. The proces.s for making oil is still very primitive, though hydraulic and othei machinery is being gradually introduced. Olives are also preserved to be eaten whole ; for this they are picked before they are quite ripe, and steeped in brine. The olive is nutritious, but heating. Most of the sorts used now bear the old Roman names (Columella, 5-8). They are dearer now than they were at Rome, when ' olei librse duodenre assibus ' (Pliny, 15, 1). Oil, aceite, the Arab's azzait, is a substitute for butter and grease in Spain. They make with it a dish called migas, which is a compound of crumbs of bread fried with oil, salt, and pepper — the Latin poet's ' mica vocor quid sim cemis caenatio parva ;' and gazpacho, or bread soaked in oil. The oil consumed in Spain amounts to 6,556,500 gallons, being 4 gals. 6 pints per head ; while the consumption of meat is 23-03 lbs. In this district the vegetables are excellent, some of enomious size. The Cordovese artichokes were a relish at Rome (Pliny, 19, 8). Melons {andrejuelas) and water-melons (sandias), citrons and linia«, are most ex- quisite ; so are the pomegranates {gra nadas) which were sent to Abdur-r- rhaman from Baghdad, and therefore called jafaries — Arabice, travellers. The East Region, or of Oraxge-Trees, Includes E. and S. Cataluiia, Valencia, Alicante, Murcia, Malaga. This is the paradise of the farming Moor, the richest soil in Europe, and one of the best cultivated ; every tropical plant grows and thrives admirably — rice, sugar, cotton, wine, oU, silk, corn. Taking Castellon for average xl GENERAL INFORMATION. tj-pc, the hanfigada (32 square poles) is valued from 2000r. (£21) to 4000r. (£42), if irrigated ; the rent and value of the Huerta (orchard) are in pro- portion to the period and growth of the plantations. The naranjales (orange-grounds) are divided into three classes on an average ; the hec- tare is valued at pes. 24,500, each tree produces pes. 175, and the hanegada contains about twenty trees. The arrendamienio (farming-lease) of a hanegada planted with orange-trees, from 15 to 20 years old, is 250 reals (£2 : 12s.) — viz. pes. 305 per hectare (2^ acres) ; the trees begin to bear fruit after the sixth year, and improve up to 20 years, after which they degenerate ; they flower in March. ' It rarely happens to find a plant vigorous enough to have, like the orange-tree, at once beautiful shining leaves, fragrant flowers, and delicious nourishing fruit' {Spectator, mem. 155). The exportation is very large. Including lemons, the value of the trade with Great Britain alone during the year 1896 amounted to £1,685,000 (other fruits £1,345,568), and exportation to Germany and other countries is on the increase. The oranges are picked in a some- what desultory manner from October to March, wrapped in paper, and packed in boxes containing 700 to 1000 each, and worth to the importer from twenty-five to thirty shillings ; they ripen during the voyage. The finest naranjales are at Ricote, Murcia, at Cullera, Alcira, Gandia, Carcagente. Rice. — Considerably produced and consumed in this region ; intro- duced by the Carthaginians and cultivated by the Arabs, who called it arrds, and sowed it on both irrigated and non-irrigated soil : it is now principally produced in marshy swamjis, called marjales or arrowzales, ague-feeders, that produce gTeat mortality among the cultivators. A hec- tare produces 20 to 50 hectolitre of grain (a hect. = 5| qrs., and the stalks weigh 85 cwt.) The fertility which 100 kilogrammes of rice-grain and straw draw from the soil is equal to that contained in 135 kil. of good manure. Suf/ar-Cane, introduced by the Arabs, is limited to the province of Malaga ; the cultivation does not extend, owing to American competition ; grows only on irrigated soil. The sugar produced is only 10 per cent, whilst in Cuba 15'4 to 17-6 ; a hectare of sugar-cane yields 2900 kil. of sugar. This Arab sulhir and Sanscrit sarkara was, according to some, imported from Sicily by the Carthaginians, and exported by the Spaniards to St. Domingo, though indigenous in that country. The Raisin. — There are ^)a.srts of three sorts — moscatel, de sol (sun raisin) and lejias, so called from the liquor ley in which they are dipped, composed of water, ashes, and oil, after which they go through the usual process of drying in the sun. The finest are those from Malaga, which fetch a third more than any other in the London market. The annual exportation is about 2,500,000 boxes, 22 lbs. to a box. Batatas {Convolvulus batatas, L.) — Another produce of Malaga, im- AGRICULlTRi: — PASTURE. xli ported from South America ; used as a sweetmeat, and excellent when boiled, planted in spring, and taken up in autumn. A hectare yields thirty to sixty thousand kil. The leaves are eaten by cattle. Silh. — Chiefly at Valencia, where the mulberry grows admiiably, and the silk is excellent. The methods practised are antiquated ; the Phalcena homhyx is commonly employed. The cocoon weighs only 2 grammes, whilst that of the Bomhijx atlas, at the Vincennes model-farm, weighs 9. The trade is slightly on the increase. Cotton. — The soil and climate are favourable, but man is unequal to either. In Motril (province of Granada), towards the end of the last century, 1781 marjales produced 12,000 arrohas (300,000 lbs.) The Arabs cultivated it on the Andalusian sea-shore. We have seen fine specimens at Elche (Alicant). A hectare (2^ acres) yields in a quin- quennio, or period of five years, 5200 kil. (102 cwts.), which, at the lowest price (4r. 25c. per kil., lO^d.), are valued at £272 ; the expenses may be reckoned at £256, the net produce being therefore about £16 per hectare; whilst in Algeria the maximum produce is <£12 : 10s. per hec- tare. In 1 808 there were as many as forty thousand marjales planted in Motril ; it decreased again during the Peninsular war, and is very slowly re- covering. Land is very cheap, and were English companies to buy up a large extent, and cultivate cotton, the result would, no doubt, prove satisfactory. Irrigation. — The hueilas of Valencia, Murcia, and vegas of Granada, are the great centres of irrigation. The celebrated tribunal de las A.gua3, at Valencia, applies to this day the code of laws introduced by the Goths and Arabs. The noria, or Arab anaoura, is a large water-wheel, armed with jars (alcah/ces) which descend into the well, and, as they rise, following the motion of the wheel, discharge their contents into a reservoir. There is irrigation by agua de pie (running water) and agua de noria, artefacto, arte, as these wheels are called, according to the province where they are employed. By means of irrigation, Alfalfa (Lucerne) is mowed twelve to sixteen times. Guano is now much employed by farmers in the Huerta of Valencia and other enterprising districts. The neces- sity of irrigation, and when obtained, in this parched-up soil, the aug- mentation of the value of land, will appear evident when we state that, whilst in the province of Murcia unirrigated {secano) land sells from £\2 to .£30 per acre, irrigated {regadio) land fetches prices varying from £300 to £600. In the Huerta of Valencia, the proportion is £Q to £12 in the first case, and £300 to £400 in the second. Again, while the value of a cubic foot of water per second is in Lombardy £8, and in Piedmont 17s. 6d., it is often sold in Spain at the rate of £300 the cubic foot per second, and sometimes exceeds this price. The West Region, or of Pasture, Includes Estremadura and portions of Leon : contains little more than 59 inhabitants per square league ; consists of large wastes, valdios, and ylii GENERAL INFORMATION. puj^t lire-land. Tho agriculture is strictly pastoral. A company of sheep proprietors, called Coiicejo de la Mesta, was established in ] 556, to which most exclusive and arbitrary privileges were granted. In the 15th cen- tury they possessed seven millions of sheep, in the 1 7t]i century only two and a half. It was suppressed in 1834, and the remnant, the now unprivileged Associacion de Ganaderos, possesses only five millions. The flocks are divided into estantes (stationary) and trashumantes, ov migratory, and divided into detached cabanas (from the Greek kapane, a stable), of about 10,000 head each. The highland summer pastures are called agostaderos (August, from agostar, to be parched with heat, as mesta comes from mesial, a barren uncultivated land), and are quitted about October for the inveniadores, winter quarters, in the warm plains ; each cabaiia is directed by a Mayoral, or Merino, who has under his orders fifty shep- herds. The free sheep-walks, ' Caiiada de Paso,' now suppressed, were 90 ft. wide, and were left on each side of the highway, an organisation and custom well known to the ancients. (Pliny, 21, 10 ; Varro, 22, 10 ; 2, 2.) The merino breeds were so called from the conductor's name (whence those jurisdictional districts called merindades, etymologically to divide, to separate, as in Navarre, to this day). Spanish sheep were alwaj^s cele- brated, and some fetched at Eome as much as £200 (Columella, B.C. 42). George III. was a great patron of the breed, and the late king of Saxony imiiorted it. Indeed, such has been the care and intelligence shown by English and Germans, and the neglect of Spanish breeders, that the wool trade with Spain has become insignificant compared with that of Qer- uuiuy and Brazil, and merinos are now imported from tliose countries to regenerate the Sjianish breeds ! Spain in 1896 possessed about twenty- five and a half million head. The net produce of a sheep is 4r. to 6r., and the price about pes. 10 Swine are auuther produce of this region, and the bacon and hams of Montanches and the strong chorizos are celebrated all over Spain. T/ie Central Region, or o/Cokn, Includes the Castiles S. of Leon, Mancha, etc. This region consists of vast treeless plains, where corn thrives wonderfully, and might indeed become the granary of the world. An aranzada (nearly an acre) is in general sown with a fanega and 5 cuartillos (l| bushel) ; in Andalusia it yields from 13 to 20 fanegadas. A fanegada of land in Ca>tile yields 9 to 30. There are a great many varieties of corn, all divided under the heads of caJiivanos and cahimacizos — that is, hlandos and duros ; 90 lbs. weight of wheat yield 115 lbs. of bread. Much barley is also grown, but is princi- pally given to horses and cattle. The great wheat districts are Palencia, Valladolid, Zamora, with Old Castile, ' tierras de pran llevar' is applied to land which grows it more especially. All corn is so^vn broadcast on fallow land and ploughed in ; the sowing takes jilaces from October to Novem- ber. In the s]iring the escarda (weeding) takes place and in July and AGKTCULTURE — COllN. xliu August the reaping begins, whicli is clone with the siclcle, not the scythe, a slower but surer process in this climate. The thrashing-floors (eras), la trifla, the wooden or stone roller used in some disticts, and in others the treading the corn \nth mules or oxen, are all Eastern importations, and such as practised now in Egypt and Asia Minor. The plough is an elm-tree, alamo negro {Ulmus nigra), stripped of its bark and branches, save a lower one, which is sharpened and coated with a thin sheet of iron ; the trunk forms the pole, and lies obliquely between the oxen or mules' heads ; no traces, no reins are needed, the voice alone suflRces to guide the yunta, and the gahan follows rather than directs the plough, holding the single handle with his left hand, and with a short goad (gavilan) scrapes off the mud, roots, etc. But the goad he manages to leave behind in the apero, which is often two or three leagues distant ; and he will go on singing, as he ploughs, some wild ditty to the winds and his lass, looking back rather than forward, contraiy to the injunc- tion of the Bible. The vertedera (versoir), or iron-share plough is little known, nor rollers and harrows, as we understand them. The ploughing is very light, what the Romans called scarifcatio. The furrows seldom exceed eight inches ; its different operations are reduced to 4 rejas ; the plough costs from 50r. to 75r. (lOs. 5d. to 15s. 7d., and weighs 25 lbs.), and weighs one arroba ; ploughing otherwise is scorned, ' arado rabudo y labrador barbudo.' The rotation of crops is unknown, and would scarcely be possible without manure or water. The mo.st usual system is that of ano y vez (every other year). Thus the soil only bears a crop every second year, and rests — that is, is manured by the air — the other. Wages vary from 4r. to 8r. (from lOd. to Is. 6d.) The Castilian labra- dores are far from indolent, rise with the cock, and are harder workers than is generally believed. Saffron, azafran (Arabice saffru, yellow), is also extensively grown ; and garbanzos (cicer, unde Cicero, wliose wart was like one). This chick- pea, the French pois-chiche, is farinaceous, somewhat fade, but ills the buche, and that is all that is required. It is, moreover, grown without irrigation, and yields plentiful crops. This pea, quite a Spanish pro- duce (' Es])aua, la tierra de los garbanzos'), enters largely into the daily food of the poor and rich man alike, for the olla or puchero appears on the queen's table every day, as it does between the crossed legs of the squatting albanil, or ploughboy. The olla {olla, a pot, a pij^kin) or puchero, and also cocido, is the Spanish staple dish. It is a compound of string}', dried-up beef, boiled garbanzos, bacon, cabbage, chicken (victims generally of raj-id decline), relev^ by highly-spiced chorizo, etc.. all boiled and served together. Quantity replaces quality, and it satisfies all Spanish stomachs, even that of the fastidious Cura, whose happiness is summed up in it. Su olla, su misa, Y su l^oB.T l.iiisa xliv GENERAL INFORMATION. The algarroba {Criuni minanthos, L.) is very much grown, and is especially used for cattle ; 10 to 15 liectols. are produced in a hectare. The flour made with it is exccdlent for milk-cows ; grows on non-irri- gated soil ; two species, black and white ; the grains are sometimes called Arbejones. Books of Reference. — ' Curso de Economia rural Espanola,' by Tablada. Excellent, in course of publication. Madrid, Cuesta, 1864. ' Manual de la Construccion de las Maquinas aratorias,' by same. Madrid, 1852. ' Manual de Riegos y Prados,' by same. Consular and Commercial Reports for Spain. London, 1893. 'Abu Zakaria's Moorish Agric' (dates 12th century), and was written for the use of the Sevillian Moors, found in Ebnud-Awmam's Book of Agriculture.. Translated by Senor Banqueri. Madrid, 2 fob vols., 1802. Republished in 2 vols. i2mo; Seville, 1872, in the series Biblioteca-Cientifico-Literaria. The best periodicals are 'La Espana .-Xgricola,' and ' Eco de la Ganaderia.' Wine. The celebrity of Spanish wine was great even in olden times. That it was exported to England and France as early as the 16th century there is no doubt. Spanish wines have lately superseded Madeira and other white ones, but the export is on the decline, the total value in 1894 not exceeding i- 4,000,000. The principal characteristics of the Spanish wines are — fulness of body (cuerpo), strength derived from its natural spirituosity (encaluzado), absence of acidity, owing to the power of the sun, very high flavour or bouquet, and great durability, in the whites more especially. The principal white wines are — Jerez, Malaga, Manzanilla ; the red — Valdepeiias, Rioja, Benicarlo. White. — Jerez, or Sherry, pronounced ' Harez,' was introduced into England in the reign of Henry VII., and became a general favourite in the time of Elizabeth. The sack mentioned so often in the works of Beaumont and Fletcher ('the vertue of sack') ; of Ben Jonson ('An Epigram,' etc.) ; and in Shakspeare (Hen. IV., pt. 1, etc.) alludes to Canary only. The favourite drink of Sir John Falstaff was, however, Xerez, not Canary ; and Shakspeare plainly marks the difference : — * A good s/ie?vvs-sack hath a two-fold operation in it : it ascends me into the braine ; the second propertie of your excellent sherris is, the warming of the blood ' (Hen. IV., pt. 2, act iv.) Whether, now, sack comes from seco, dry, or otherwise, as Ducange expresses it, we leave to the learned. The exportation has more than doubled in twenty years, and that is the best commentary upon its value and favour. In 1841 there were ex- ported from Jerez to all parts, 14,773 butts of 30 arrobas each, value £440,000; in 1860 there were 30,725 butts, value .£1,400,000; in 1 883, 37,160 butts. The declared value seems to have risen steadily until 1882 — up to £2,200,000 — but since then has declined. The demand, WINE. Xlv however, for old slierry is enormous ; and the prices are likely to increase. ^foreover, the vintages for some time past have been scanty, owing to scorching African winds, absence of rain, and other causes. Sherry is made with Jerez grapes, but of great many sorts and difference of flavour. The process for making this wine is thus carried on : — The grapes are carefully gathered and sorted, and exposed upon reed mats, where the sun dries them ; eight or ten days suffice, according to the strength of the sun and varieties of fruit — a process mentioned by Hesiod, lib. ii., v. 229. The grapes are then taken to the lagar, and submitted to the action of presses (prensas), before which they are trampled under foot, just as was done thousands of years ago in Palestine (Isaiah xvii. 10 and Jer. xlviii. 33), and by the Greeks and Romans, and all Eastern nations, for where the sun rules paramount, most agricultural practices, and others indeed, never vary ; and of these it may be truly said, nil novum sub sole, as most inventions and innovations of the frost- bitten Northerner tend to making artificial suns with coals, manures, forests, 'lass, etc. The system of trampling the grape under foot was prohibited in Charlemagne's time (Cap. year 800). The must or juice (mosto) is pu't into botas, where it undergoes fermentation. When the latter is com- pleted (in January), and the must is made wine, it is racked from the lees and left to itself for four or five years — the age requisite for ex- portation. When it enters this stage {maduracion), it is clarified ; which process is done by dissolving a fatty substance in the whites of twenty eggs per bota, and the compost poured into it and stirred for mixing, then allowed to settle, and afterwards racked off into another bota (a butt, not a skin). Now an important operation takes place ; the w4ne {el caldo, as it is technically called) receives a small addition of madre vino (madre, mother), or very rich old wine, the crime de la crime, and treasured up, as the old Dutchmen kept with jealous eye their bulbs of tulips. The quantity of mother wane is every year made up by other wine, old too, but younger than the alma mater itself. To bear exporta- tion, a fiftieth or sixtieth part of brandy is added — that is, about 1°/^^ ; This for genuine sherry. Imitations receive 5°/^^ and 7°/o of spirit, and sometimes more. There are, under the sorts of dry and sweet sherry, two varieties of each. 1 st. Dry Sherry — Jerez seco, or, properly, English Sherry. There is pale, Jerez claro, sometimes called amhar, and brown or golden, Jerez oscuro. The former is generally new raw wine (from four to five years old) ; the latter owes its rich colour to age. There is between the straw- (pajizo) coloured and the deep golden a golden sherry, which partakes of the nature of both ; we believe Tio Pepe also belongs to this class. This latter is as yet but little know-n, and produced in small quantities ; but let the real connoisseur, whose palate is not used up by fashion and prejudice, taste it, and he will have no other. The second is Jere^ Amontillado, so called from the peculiar highly aromatic filbert or almond- xl\'i (n:\ERAI. INlOr.MATTON. like aroma of the wine grown near Muutilla (near Cordova). It is also drier ; the colour is more or less deep pajizo, the lightest being the oldest wine. These two dry sherries, so different in colour and flavour and scent, proceed, however, from the same grapes (whose sorts have not pro- bably been sufficiently studied separately), and thus often several botas contain must from the same press, and yet part becomes amontillado and the other dry slierry. The latter is richer than the former, but inferior in bouquet. The transformation takes place during the first or second year ; by what means has never been ascertained. The amontillado is less abundant and dearer, and serves to enrich poorer sherries — that is, not to add cuerpo O^ody), but aroma. Tlie grapes from which these two dry wines are made are exposed to the sun for two or three days only ; the sweet wines require ten or twelve, so that they become almost raisins {pasas). Sweet Sherry consists of three sorts ; Pajarete, JMoscatel, and Pedro- Gimenez. The Pajarete is made from the Pedro-Gimenez grapes, which are sweeter than tlie sherry grape, and are left exposed to the sun from ten to twelve days, and thus become in a way sun-raisins, or pasas. The name comes from that of the ' hamlet of Pajarete,' where it was first made. There is scarcely any ditterence between it and Pedro-Gimenez, both proceeding from the same grape. Its colour is dark, its flavour that of the natural grape. Moscatel is made with the Muscat grapes, which are sweeter still than the two former, and darker also. There is, besides, a delicious sweet sherry, called ' Malvasia,' superior in all respects to Lachryma-Cliristi, not unlike Pajarete, but not abundantly produced, and dear. Sherries, when genuine, keep for an infinite time,therc beingbotas of one hundred years old. Age darkens the colour of sweet shemes and lightens that of dry ones. The wine can be bottled in a very few days after its arrival. It forms no deposit {poso). The basis of adulterated sherry consi-sts, on an average, of pale malt, sulphuric acid, flavoured from the bitter almond oil, with a high percentage of alcoholic spirit. The mo.st celebrated wine in Spain, after sherry, is Malaga. There are two sorts — dry and sweet. Tlie latter is the well-known ' Mountains ' of olden time. The annual produce amounts to about 2,250,000 gals. (1 arroba = in round figures 3^ gals.), of which, however, not more than one half is exported. The average price is £'G per butt, and excellent Frasaiaejo — very old — may be obtained for £\ the arroba. About one- twelfth part of dry Malaga consists of brandy. Lagrimas, the sweetest and most delicious of all, is, as its name poetically indicates, the tears or droppings of the ripe grape hung up and dried in the sun, and obtained without pre.ssure. They are of diff"erent qualities, varying from pes. 15 to jies. 25 the arroba. Besides these, several liqueurs and brandies are manufactured in the district, and Curasao, Anisette de Bordeaux, etc., well imitated. Manmnilla. — A most delicious, highly flavoured, and stomachic white wine, made at San Lucar de Barrameda, near Cadiz, and so called from WINE— U1ST0R\. xlvi the light camomile {manzanilla) flavoiir, contained in the grape. It is a light wine, very wholesome, and seldom adulterated. It ought to be preferred to inferior made-up sherries. Montilla. — White, dry, exquisitely flavoured, made at Moutilla, near Cordova ; deserves to be better known. There are several other good light white wines made in Cataluiia — such as Malvasia de Sitjes, CuUera, Alella, Taya, etc. Champagne is made at Logroiio and in Aragon. lied Wines. — The best vin ordinaire, vino de pasto, is ValdepeSas, near Madrid. Were the vines better cultivated and the elahoracion better attended to, this wine, the produce of Burgmidian vines transplanted here, would bear exportation and enjoy great reputation. It is very rich, fruity, but encahezado generally. Tlie Eioja Clarete, now very widely drunk, is perhaps the best low-priced wine in bottle. Among other red wines we may mention Arganda, near Madrid, full bodied, and highly coloured, used as the former, to mix with water, which, in Spain, where the latter is so exquisite, is to spoil two good things. BenicarU (18 leagues from Valencia) is very full-bodied, and so deeply coloured that French weak clarets are dyed and strengthened witli it ; the native amateurs like it to be as dark as ink, and they spill a drop on the white shii-t-sleeve to see whether it itains or not ! We may also men- tion the excellent Priorato (sweet and dry sorts), La Rioja, Tintilla de Rota (near Cadiz), Cariuena (near Zaragoza), FondiUon, Aloque, etc., at Alicante. Spanish wines are exported in double-bottomed casks ; but the common ones, especially red ones, sent about in the country, are contained in goat-skins, which, when not tanned, communicate an unpleasant taste to the wine. These pellejos or borrachas are the early Greek daxhg, the Roman uter, French outre. They are used for liquids in Arabia, and in Persia are saturated with pitch. They are mentioned in Homer (Od. vi. 78, II. iii. 247), and in Virgil's Georg. ii. 384. They were, however, introduced into the north of Spain by the Celts, who called them C)npa (whence perhaps cuba, cuve), (Caesar, lib. viii. 34). In some out-of-the- way districts, the want of barrels causes the cosecheros, when the vintage is at hand, to throw the old wine away ; and it is no conte de voyageur, that it often is used instead of water to mix with mortar. Since the spread of the phylloxera an enormous trade in red wines has sprung up with France to supply the demand for ' Bordeaiix.' There are many good recent Spanish publications upon the cultivation of the vine and the processes of wine manufacture. Vizetelly's ' Facts about Sherry ' is a useful authority upon one section of the trade. History. It would be foreign to the nature of this guide-book to enter into details respecting the history of Spain, which is suitably noticed in the local descriptions further on. We only subjoin, therefore, a concise tableau of the kings, to assist research. xlviiJ GENERAL L\F0KiMATlON. Gothic Spain. Events. A.D. General History. 1 A.U. The Wisigoths or W. Goths, Invasion of the Barbarians in Conquest of Spain by Ataulphus 414 Italy, Gaul, etc. 410-27 The A lam, under Gonderic, settle in N.E 409 Tlie Suevi, under Hermanric, settle in the N.W. 409 1 The Vandals, under Genseric, Rome taken by Alaric ♦10 settle in S., pass to Africa, and 1 thence to Rome. 409 The Visigoths, who settled in the centre, absorbed the other races, 1 and became sole undisturbed 1 rulers of al! Spain. Barcelona is Fall of the Western Empire 476 at first the capital, and then Toledo Chronology of the Gothic Kiicgs. A.D. A.Ol Ataulfo 414 Sigerico .... 4t6 Pope Boniface I. 41S Walia 417 Teodoredo ... 419 Turismundo 45' Attila in Italy 447 Teodorico . 454 Eurico 4''7 Alarico .... 483 Gesaleico .... 506 Amalarico .... 5" Death of Clevis in France 5" Teudis, or Theudio . 531 Teudiselo . 543 Code of Justinian ■ 533 Agila ... . . S50 Atanagildo .... 554 Luva, or Liuva 1 567 Leovigildo .... 570 Birth of Mahomet 570 Recaredo I. 587 Liuva, or Leuva If.. 601 Witerico .... 603 Gundemaro 610 Heraclius, Empcrorof theE^st 610 Sisebuto 612 Recaredo 11 . . 621 Suintila .... 621 HijraofMaliomct . bxa Sisenando .... 630 Chintila .... 636 Tulga. . . . 640 Chlndasuindo, or Chindasvinto 642 Recesvinto .... 649 Waniba 672 Ervigio .... 6S0 Egica .... 687 Witiza 701 Roderik .... 710 Pope Gregory II. . 71S His death 711 Duration of the Gothic Empire in Spain, 300 years. The battle of Jerez, or of the Guadalete, a.u. 711, won by the Moors, puts an end to the Gothic rule. HISTORY. XitX Moorish Spain. A.D. 1 Christian Monarchies — Kings of Asturias and Leon. Year of Access. The Berbers' Arabs land at Gib raltar, under Tarik. The Moorish dynasties are usually divided into four pe- riods: — 1. 711 to 756 — Spain was go- verned by the Khaliifs of Damas- cus, under Amirs or Sheiks 2. 756 to 1036 — or Khalifate of Cordova, independent of Da- mascus. Seventeen Sultans, all of the Ummeyah family 3. 1036 to 1235 — the dynasty of the Almohadei, and Almora- vides, succeeded to the former, and the Khalifate of Cordova fell when that city was taker. by St. Ferdinand, June 30, 1235 4. Khalifate of Granada found- ed by Ibnu-1-Ahmar, 1238 to 1492, when the city surrendered to the Catholic kings .... April 711 Pelayo .... Favila .... Alfonso I., el Catdlico . Fruela I. ... Aurelio . Silo Mauregato Berraudo I., el Diacono . Alfonso II., el Casto Ramiro I. OrdoBo I. . . . Alfonso III., el Magno , Garcia .... Ordono II. . Fruela II. . . . Alfonso IV., el Monje Ramiro II. . OrdoBo .... Sancho I. 718 737 739 757 768 774 783 789 793 842 8';o 866 910 914 ! 924 ; 925 930 950 955 1 Christian Monarchies. Spain — Kings of Asturias and Leon Year of Access. France. England. koiue, etc Pelayo . 718 Favila 737 Defeat of the Moors at Poitiers Alfonso (el Caidhco) 739 (732). Fruela I. . 757 Aurelio . 768 Charlemagne (768) Silo .... 774 Mauregato 783 Bermudo 1. (el Dii- . • .. Haroun al RashiJ cono) 789 (780) in the East. Alfonso II. (el Casto) 793 Khalifate of Cordova (rs*^)- Ramiro I. 842 Charles the Bald (840). Ordono I. 850 Egbert (800). Alfonso III. (el ■ Magno) . 866 .. Alfred the Great (871). Garcia 910 Ordono II. 914 • Abdurrahmann III., j Khalife of Cordova i (912). Fruela II. 924 Alfonso IV. (el Monj() 935 GENERAL INFORMATION. Chkistian Monarchies — Continued. Kingdom of Year of France. 1 Castile and Leon. Access. Ramiro II 927 Ordonolll. . 950 Sanclio I. 955 Ramiro III. 967 Bermudo 11. . 982 HughCspetigS?) Alfonso V. 999 Bermudo III. . 1027 .. Dona Sancha . 1037 Castile and Leon. Fernando I. and Dona Sancha IOJ7 Sancho II. . Philip I. Alfonso VI. . 1072 •\^. Dona Urraca . nog ^v^ Alfonso VII. (Em- ^^ perador) 1126 Louis Vll.A Sancho IIL (el Des- eado) 1 1 57 Alfonso Vn I. 1158 Enrique I. 1214 Fernando II. . 1157 Alfonso IX. . 1187 Dona Bercnguela . 1214 San Fernando III. 1217 St. Louis. Alfonso X. (el Sabio) 1252 Sancho IV. (el Bravo) . 12S4 Fernando IV. (el Emplazado . 1295 Alfonso XI. 1312 Philip VI. Pedro I. (el Cruel) . 1350 Jean II. Enrique 11. . 1363 Juan L . 1379 Enrique III. . 139° Juan 11. . 1406 Louis XI. Enrique IV. (cl Impotcnte) 1454 .. Isabel la CatiSlica . Fernando V. . 147,4 1474 Charles VIII. Francis I. Juana (la Loca) Philip I. . . _ . Charles I. of Spain 1504 and V. of Germany — Carlos Quinlo . 1518 1556 Henry 11. Philip 11. Charles IX. England. Eihftlredll.(g76) William the Con- queror. Henry 11 Richard(Ca-ur de Lion). Henry III. Edward III. Edward 1 II Henry VII. Henry VIII. Edward VI. Elizabeth. Rome, etc. Gregory V. (996). End of Khalifate of Cordova. Pope Gregory VII. The first Crusade (1095) Pope Adrian IV. Barbarossa. Fourth Crusade (1204) Pope Innocent IV. Pope Boniface VIII. Rudolph of Hapsburg (1273) Pope Benedict VI. Rienzi (1347)- Innocent VI. Taking of Constanti- nople by iMahomet II.— The Medici at Florence. Castile and Aragon united (1474) P. Innocent VIII. Leo X., Pope. Battle of Pavia (1525) Luther (1317). Paul III. St Bartholomew's Day (157',''. HISTORY. Christian Monarchies — Continued. Kingdom of Castile and Leon. Year of Access. France. England. Rome, etc. Philip III. 1598 Philip IV. 1621 Louis XIV. Charles I. Pope Innocent X. Charles II. 1665 Philip V. (abdic.) . 1700 Luis I. . 1724 Philip V. . 1724 Louis XV. Anne. Pope Clement XI. Fernando VI. . 1746 Charles III. . 1759 Louis XV r. George III. Clement XIII. Charles IV. (abdic.) 17SS i8o3 Napoleon I. Pius vir. Fernando VII. Louis-Philippe. William IV. Gregory XVI. Isabel II. (fled) . 1833 Napoleon III. Victoria. Pius IX. Provisional Govern- ment 1868 Amadeo (abdic.) . 1871 Republic. Republic Alfonso XII. . 1873 1874 Leo XIIL Alfonso XIII. 1885 Spanish Chronology. The Eoman date sera (era) was in use in Spain until the 12th century. It began on December 25. To make it correspond with the Anno Domini, thirty-eight years must be added to the latter. The New Style was adopted in 1582 ; ten days must be added of the New Style to any day of accord to the Old Style. The Hijra of the Moors begins Friday, July 16, A.D. 622, era 660. Principal Monastic Orders in Spain. Order. Founders. A.D. Observations. Augustines St. Augustine . 3SO In the reign of Philip III. there Benedictines St. Benedict . SOD were upwards of 9000 convents, con- Cartuj OS (Carthusian s) St. Bruno . 1086 taining 60,000 monks, besides 988 Franciscans St. Francis of Assise 1209 nunneries. In the dioceses of Pam- Dominicans St. Domingo . I2I5 plona and Calahorra alone there Capuchins . Mateo Baschi . 1525 were more than 20,000 monks Jesuits Hyeronomites . San Ignacio de Loyola 1540 and clergy. In Castile, the Church Followed the rule of possessed 12 millions of fanegas of St Jerome ; four land, that produced 161 millions of orders ; that of reals (end of 17th century). Tht.- Spain founded by revenues of the Spanish Church Thomas of Sienna in 1S07 were about six millions in . 1370 sterling. Books of Reference. — The first writers who deserve the name of historians are : — Zurita, Morales, Mendoza, Sigiienza, Ribade7ieyra, Zuiliga, Mariana, Sandoval, Herrera, etc. The best modern works are those of Prescott, Robert- son, Denham, St. Hilaire, Lafuente, Gayangos, Castelar, Danvila, Gachard, Cdnovas del Castillo. Consult also the new Hisloria General de Espana, by members of the Academy, published by El Progreso Editorial. The History of Spain to the Death of Ferdinand the Catholic, by A. R. Burke (2 vols., Long- mans, 1895), is well-planned and generally good. For the same period, cf. Watts in the Story of the A^ations series (Fisher Unwin, 1893). (I lii GENERAL INFORMATION. Language. The ouly remains of the language spoken in Sjjain at the dawn of history are probably to be found in the Basque (Eu^cara) still preserved in Vizcaya and Guipuzcoa, in the northern parts of Alava and Navarra, and in some portions of the adjacent French department of the Basses Pyrenees. The student may be referred to the works of Van Eys, Professor J. Vinson, and especially to those of tlie Prince L. L. Bona- part, for information on this subject. The last and most complete grammar is in Spanish, by Don Arturo Campion, ' Gramatica de los Cuatro Dialectos Literarios de la Lengua Euskara' (Tolosa, 1884). Be- sides the Basque, inscriptions and numerous legends on coins, as late, probably, as the 3d century A.D., in unknown characters, have been found almost throughout the Peninsula. The title ' Keltiberian ' is often given to these, but they still await a decipherer. The subject ie well worth the attention of the archaeologist, as the interpretation may throw a flood of light on the early history of southern and western Europe. (Of. Hiibner's Monument a Lingwr Ihericrc, Berlin, 1894.) After the Iberian and Keltiberian and Kelt, the Phoenician, Cartha- ginian, and Greek were the next foreign races whom we find on the soil of Spain. They have, however, left but few traces of their speech in the present language. Far different was it with the succeeding peoijle, the Romans, whose language is the foundation and material of the Spanish tongues. No country was more completely Latinised than Spain. No one of the Romaunce dialects keeps closer to the mother tongue. A few names of the Spanish writers of the silver age of Latinity will show how prevalent the language must hav^ljeefl in Spain, though the coins and inscriptions show that Keltib^riSri still lingered on beside it. Seneca, Lucan, Martial, Qulatilian, and Florus were all Spaniards ; so also were the best of the earliest Christian Latin poets, Prudentius and Juvencus. After the Romans, came the Barbarian tribes which broke up the empire. Of these the Vandals have left their name to (V) Andalucia ; the Suevi held possession of Galicia and the north-west ; while the Visigoths, who succeeded them, reigned from 416 to 711 a.d. over the greater part of S])ain and south-eastern France. These have left far deeper marks in the laws and institutions of Spain than in the language. The so-called Gothic manuscripts, Gothic liturgies, Gothic architecture, are merely names applied to certain modes of writing, liturgies, and styles of architecture which are not really of Gothic origin at all ; but tlie use of these terms has led to a great exaggeration in the work of the Goths in Spain. After their arrival, as before, the bulk of the nation remained linguistically and ethnologically Iberian, Kelt, and Roman. The con- LANGUAGE. liii querors of the Visigoths, the Arabs, Berber tribes, aud Moors, who ruled in the south from the eighth to the end of the fifteenth century, have had far greater influence on the language. A glance at any modern map will show how many geographical names, up to and occasionally even beyond the Ebro, are still Arabic. The glossaries of Dozy and Engelmann (Leyden, 1869) and of Eguilaz y Yanguas (Granada, 1886) will show how many Arabic or Oriental words were added by them to the Spanish vocabulary. This influence, however, has been only on the vocabulary and the speech ; very slightly on the grammar. The Jews were numerous in Spain, even in Visigothic times or earlier ; but no foreign race except the gypsies has since taken root in the Peninsida. We may now take a brief survey of the dialects actually spoken in the Peninsula. For ordinary travellers these resolve themseh-es into two, the Spanish or Castilian, and the Portuguese. From the Pyrenees, in Aragon, in the centre, and throughout the whole of the south, the Spanish prevails. The Portuguese is spoken in Portugal ; and the Oalician or Gallegan, the language of Galicia, is merely a dialect of the Portuguese. The Basque, as said above, obtains only in las provincias Vascowjadas and in Navarra. The Catalan, which is a dialect of the Provencal, is spoken in Cataluna, Valencia, Alicante, and the Balearic Isles. In addition to these, there are the patois, or Bable, of the Asturias ; aud slighter difterences from the literary idiom occur in Leon, Aragon, and Andalucia. The Flamenco and the Germania must not be confused with the Romany, or true speech of the gypsies. The former, in the Caixtos Flamencos, is simply the Andalucian dialect as spoken by the gypsies ; the Germania is only thieves' slang. Practically the tourist will need an acquaintance with Spanish and Portuguese only, in his wanderings through the Peiynsula. Even among the Basques, it is much more rare to find a Bas^ruj in Spain who cannot understand Castilian than it is to find a French Basque who cannot uuderetand French. The grammar and the pronunciation of Sj^anish are comparatively easy. The guttural j, the jota, is difficult' to an Englishman, but easy to a Scotch or Irishman ; the "svritten or printed h is not pronounced. The n produces the pronunciation of ike. gn of the French (gagriier), and of the Italian Spagrna. There are t\venty-eight letters. The masculine article is el ; feminine, la ; neuier, lo ; but for the sake of euphony el is always used before a vowel— 'as el agua (for la agua), el azucar, etc. The augmentatives are expressed by the final azo, aza ; on, ana ; ote, ota, added to the substantive : the diminutives by ico, tea ; illo, ilia ; ito, ita; uelo, v£la. The comparatives are — better, mejor ; worse, peor ; greater, mayor ; Jesser, menor, and superior, inferior. The adverbs tan, as much, mds^ more, menos, less, are very constantly used. The super- liv GENERAL INFORMATION. latives end in isimo, isima ; errimo, errima. The s is the usual sign of the i^lural. * This ' is este ; ' that,' ese ; ' that yonder,' aquel ; with the feminines esta, esa, aqtiella. 'Mine' is mio {el mio, etc.); 'thine,' tuyo {el iuyo, etc.) ; ' yours,' vuestro, or, usually, de Vsted, which stands for the old Vuestra Merced, ' your worship,' written in abbreviation Vd. The accent is usually on the last or the penultimate syllable, and closely follows the Latin. In compounds, words, and inflexions Spanish has not the richness of some of the more northern tongues. The vocabulary, however, is very full, and it is long before a dictionary can be dispensed with in the study of the best authors. Still, for ordinary purposes, Spanish is easy of acquirement, and without some knowledge of it the greater part of the enjoyment of a tour mil be lost. The best Anglo- Spanish grammars are : A Spanish Grammar, by H. Butler Clarke (Swan Sonnenschein, 1892), and A Grammar of the Modern Spanish Language, by W. J. Knapp (Ginn & Co., Boston, 1892). The two great Spanish grammars are the Academia and Salva, both excellent. The following glossary may be of use. GLOSSARY. VERB ' HABER, TO HAVE. Indicative Present. Yo he . . / fiave • .Tu has (familiar) thou hast E"l (ella) ha . he(oTs/ie)has Nob-iPtros hemos we have Vosotiv:is habeis you have Ellos hau . they have VERB 'TENER,' TO HAVE, OR POSSES.S. Indicative Present. Yo tengo . / haz'e Tu tienes tlwu hast El tiene . he has Nosotros tene- mos . . we have Vosotros teneis you have (Usted tiene, usually used) Ellos tieneu . tliey have N.B. — To have Coossessive) is Tetter. I have seen, He visto. VERB 'SER,' TO BE. Indicative Present. Yo soy . / am Tu eres (familiar) thou art El [6 ella) es . he (or she) is Nosotros somos we are Vosotros sois yoit are (more usually Ustedes son) Ellos ((5e!las)son they are I have a stick, Tengo un baston. The other tenbos are : — Pret. Imp. Pret. Per. Plusquamperf. Fut. Imp. Put. Per/. Imperaiivo Sub. Pre/. Sub. Pret. Imp Yohab-.-i; yoera Yo hube ; vo fue Yo habia --abido habia sido Yo habre sido Yo habre habido habre sido Haya yo ; sea yo Yo haya ; yo sea Yo hubiera, habria, hubi- ese ; fuera, seria, fuese Sub. Pret. Per/. yo yo yo Yo habia habido haya sido Sub. Plusquamperf. Yo hubiera, habria, hubi- cse, habido; do. do. do. sido Yo hubicre ; yo fuere Yo hubiere habido ; yo hubiere sido Haber ; ser Haber habido, haber sido Habiendo ; siendo Sub. Fut. Impj. . Sub. Segundo Per/. 'i'fitt Monday, Lunn Tuesday, Martes Wednesday, Miircolei Thursday, jiteves Friday, Vierttes DAYS. Saturday, Sdbado Sunday, Domingo A holiday, dia de/esta Fast-day, din de ayuno Once a-day, una vez al dia Each day, cada dia Today, lioy '■.ly, oyef GlOSSAJlTf, Febrero Marzo Abril Mayo Junio Julio Agosto MONTHS. Setiembre Octubre Noviembre Diciembre A year, un nflo A century, un siglo A fortnight, ima gnincena A week, ?<«« setnana 1, uno 2, dos 3, tres 4, cuatro 5, cinco 6, seis 7, «W^ 8, ocho 14, enforce 9. till eve 15, quince lO, diez 16, diez-y-seis II, once 17, diez-y-siete 12, doce 18, diez-yocho 13. trece ig, diez-y-nueve 20, veinte 21, veinte-y-uiw (or veintiuno) 30, treinta 40, ciiarenta 50, cincuenia 60, sesenta 60, setcnta 80, och-enta 90, novejitn 100, ciento 1000, w^zV 1,000,000, «« ntillor FRACTIONS (LAS FRACCIONES). Half, /rt mitad Third, f/ tcrcio, la terccra parte Quarter, fourth, i guardia civil A square, una plaza I wish to see, deseo ver, visitar 1 do not understand, no cotii- prendo I do not speak Spanish, «» hablo Espailol I am an Englishman, soy Ingles The washenvoman, la lavan- dera An apron, un delantal A cap, una gorra A collar, un cuello Cotton, el algodon A crinoline, un viiriflaque A cravat, u)ta corbata Dirty linen, rcpa sucia Drawers, los calzomillos A dressing-gown, una bata An under-petticoat, una ena- gua THE WASHING (laVAR). An upper-petticoat, un gicard- apies A flannel waistcoat, un chaleco interior, de Jlanela A napkin, una tealla A night-shirt, una cainisa de dcrmir A pocket-handkerchief, ;.'« pafluelo de la mano A neckerchief, los pafluelos Sheets, las sabatuis A shirt, la camisa Stays, el corse, la/aj'a Stockings, los calcetines, las medias Washing, lavar Washing-bill, la cucnta de la ropa limpia Let us count, contentos Bring the clean linen immedi- ately, traiga Vd. la ropa bla)ica en cuanto antes The stains, las tnanchas Starch, el altnidon To iron, planchar. Pronumciation. — The following are the chief peculiarities : — ^ i& ah; e as a, and soimded at the end of words ; i zs, ee ; u as oo ; ci as t/u (tocino pron. totJueno) \ ai as qu (Cuenca, pron. Quenka) ;.§• before e and i as ;4 (Gerona, pron. Herona) ; gu as iu (Guadalquivir, pron. Wadalkeveer) ; h is silent : j as. h (Jerez, pron. Harez) ; // as li (Sevilla, pron. Seveelia) ; LI initial as y (Llama, pron. Yahma); il as ni (Senor, pron. Sanior) ; qu as k (Quixote, pron. Kehoty). VOCABULARY. A few useful Words and Expressions translated into Spanish for the use oj Tourists. Apple, vtanzana B.^coN, tocino Bath, baflo Hot, caliente Foot, de pies Bed, canui Bedroom, dormitorio Beef, came de vaca Beer, cerveza Beer-shop, tabema Bill (account), cuenta Book, libra Black, negr" Blue, aziil Bolster, cabecetil Boots, botas Bottle, bctella Braces, tiranUi Brandy, co^Uu, Bread, pait- Iviii GENERAL INFORMATION. Breakfast, almuerzo Bug, chinche Bunch of grapes, racimo Butter, vtaniecn Button, baton Cab, coche de alquiler Candle, vela Candlestick, canddc'c Carriage, caruage Cauliflower, ccllflor Cheap, barato Chamber-pot, olln Chambermaid, criada Change, cambio Cheese, gneso Church, iglesia Claret, tn7io de Burdeos Clock, reloj Coat, frac Coat, frock, levita Cod, bacalao Cofi'ee, cafi with milk, con leche Comb, peiyte Cork, corcho Cork-screw, tirabuzon Counterpane or blanket, mania Cup, taza small, tazita Custom-house, adiiana Custom-house Officer, adu- anero or ziistn Cutlet, chuleta Dear, caro Dining-room, comedof Dirty, sucio Door, piierta Drawers (to wear), calzonzillos Drawers (chest of), contoda Drawing-room, sala Driver, cochero Duck, pato Early, teinprano Eating-house, restatirant Egg, laievo Egg, boiled, huevo y>asada per agi4a Fish, pescado Flea, pulga Flesh, came Foot, pie Fore cabin, segjtnda caiiiara Fork, ienedor Fowl, ave Fritters, buSluelos Glass (wine), copa Glass tumbler, vaso Gloves, gManiei Goose, ganso Grape, uva Gravy, salsa Guard guatda Hair, /^/(7 Hairdresser, /eluquetyi Ha.m, j'anion Hand, nia>u> Handkerchief, pafluelo Hard, duro Hare, liebre Hat, sombrero Heat, calor Horse, caballo Hot, caliente I, Yo Ice, hielo Ices, helados Iced water, agua ccn hielo Ink, tinta Key, Have Kidneys, riilones Knife, cuchillo Lamp, lampara Landlord, el amo Late, tarde Laundress, lavandera Linen-draper, novedades Liver, higado Luggage, equipage Luggage, articles of, bultos Mackerel, maqjierel Matches (yaz\^e.x%),fosforos Melon (water), sandia Milk, leclu Midnight, mediatwche Milliner, yitodista Money, plata Mommg, titaflana Mustard, tiiosiaza Mutton, came de camera Napkin, servilleta Needle, aguja Oil, aceite Oil (lamp), aceite de quingue Oyster, ostra Paper, papel Partridge, perdiz Pastry, pasteleria Pear, pera Peas, giiisantes Pen, pluma Pepper, pimicnta Physic, viedicina Pickles, picles Pie, pastel Pin, al/iler Pillow, alvtohada Plate, pinto Plate (silver), plata Plated goods, plaqui Pork, cerdo Porter, cargndor or jnozo Post-office, buzon Post-office (general), correo Postage stamp, sella Postman, cartero Post-paid^ frangueado Pound, libra Potato, paiata Poultr)', gallinas Preserves, cotiservas Railway, camino de hierrc Rat, rata Reading-room, sala de lectiin; Red, Colorado Refreshment-room, fonda. Roast, asado Salmon, sahnon Salt, sal Saucer, platillo Scissors, tijeras Sheets, sabanas Shirt, camisa Shop, tienda Sick, enfertno Slippers, chinelas Sozy,jabon Socks, botines Soft, blando Sole (fish), lenguado Soup, sopa Spoon, cuchara Station (railway), estacion Steamboat, x>apor Strawberries, fresas Street, calle String, ffinfo;/ Sugar, asucar Tablecloth, cubierto Tea, te Thread, hilo Ticket, billete Train, tren Train, express, tren espres Toast, tosiada Tobacco, tabcue To-day, hoy To-morrow, ntahana Towel, toalta Trousers, pantatone.i Turkey, pabo Umbrella, paraguas Veal, came de temero Waistcoat, chaleco Waiter, ntoso Waiting-room, c.jAr de d.'s canso Washing, ropa Watch, reloj Water (hot) agua caliente Water for feet, agua parr, las pies Water-closet, retrete Wick, mecha White, bianco Wine, vino Wine-glass, copa Yellow, aniarille Yesterday, ayer Vota, utted LITERATURK lis For the flural add s when the word ends with a vowel, and es when with a consonant. COIIMON EXPRESSIONS AND QUESTIONS. What, which? que, cual? Where ? adonde ? Where is f donde estd ? When ? cuando ? Will you? quiere us/ed? Have you? iiene itsied? By here, />cr aqui By there, /yr alld Are you? csid listed? How ? i:<»;«o ? Why ? fiorque ? That, nquel How much ? cuaitto ? Too dear, demastndo cnjo How many ? cvtinios ? How do you do ? co>«o /,» ta T Quite well, thank you, >«jy bien para sef-Z'ir a us ted \Vhich is the way to? /tor Can you ? piiede usted ? ; doiuie se vn a ? (yo echodciiienos miss) First floor, /r/;«fr /;><; I want, ^ yo necesito (require) I Second floor, segundo \yo quiero ^desire I Make haste, de pr-isa Literature. It is impossible to attempt in a Guide book a history of the literature of a country, nor will sensible readers look for it here. All that can be done is to name the masterpieces, to direct to the best sources of infor- mation about them, and to the booksellers where they may be most easily procured. The earliest great literary works of Sjiain are the 'Poema,' the 'Cr6nicas' and 'Romanceros del Cid,' the ' Cantigas,' and 'Las Siete Partidas' of Alfonso the Wise. These may be well studied by those who wish to become acquainted with the earlier phases of the language. In addition to the ' Poema ' Spain has only one Epic, the ' Araucana ' of Ercilla. In lyric verse the ' Coplas ' of Manrique are unrivalled at the date (1479) ; so, too, the tragi-comedy of 'La Celestina' (1480), in spite of its freedom, is far in advance of any drama in the literature of other nations, and is the first to show what modern comedy might become. In later dramatic literature Spain is very rich. Cervantes (though his dramas have been put into shade by the Quixote), Lope de Vega, Alarcon, Tirso de Molina, Calderon, and others are worthy of all study. The fame of Don Quixote is world-wide. Contemporary with Cer- vantes, Gin^s Perez de Hita wrote the first modern historical novel, ' Las Guerras de Granada.' In another style the first part of ' Lazarillo de Tormes,' the picaresque novel attributed to Hurtado de Mendoza, is a masterpiece. Spain is rich in narratives of historical ejjisodes, and especially in works relating to the conqiiest of the Americans ; but there is no really good general history. For beauty of language and expres- sion nothing can surpass the writings of the best mystics, on whatever side they wrote — Luis de Granada, Fray Luis de Leon, or the almost Protestant Juan de Valdes. The student may usefully study Ticknor's or Bouterwek's histories, Sismondi's Literature of Souflicrn Europe, and Fitzmaurice Kelly's History of Spanish Literature (Heinemann, 1898). The modern literature of Sj^ain is far from scanty. In Poetry, Zorilla and Espronceda are excellent disciples of Byron and Scott ; of living poets Nunez de Arce is probably the best. The modern drama is by no means so far behind the ancient as is commonly supposed. Ix GENERAL INFORIMATION. The best pieces of Ecliegaray, and of Tamayo y Bans, of the Catalan dramatists, are well worth study. The historical school is still mainly occupied with the collection and study of authentic materials — a thing which has been possible only lately, since the throwing open of the archives of Simancas, of the Indies, and other great collections of docu- ments. Foreigners have joined hands with Spaniards in this toil. Of Economic writers we may mention Colmeiro and Azcarate, whose works well repay careful reading, as also do the essays of Canovas del Castillo. The Arabic and Hebrew writers on Spain are now zealously studied in the country. The Spanish Jews never furgot the tongiie which they spoke in the Peninsula ; and translations of the Old Testament and many curious works by these exiles have been published in Ferrara, Venice, Amsterdam, London, and Constantinople. In the Novel, which claims so large a space in modern literature, Spain has some really good writers ; and the best of these works, unlike those of France, may be read by all. The romances of Fernan Caballero give rose-coloured pictures of Andalucian peasant life. In beauty of style Juan Valera approaches the Mystics, whom he professedly imitates ; but he does not write for women only. Perez Galdos imitates Erckmann-Chatrian in his 'Episodios Nacionalos.' Jose Selgas, whose novels are less known than they ought to be, deserves honourable mention. Tlie ' Tales of Becquer ' should be read by all who visit Seville or Toledo. Pereda's novels describe the province of Santander, his ' Sotileza ' being the best ; while the Seiiora Pardo Bazan does the same for Leon and Galicia. Alarcon's finest work, 'El Sombrero de tres Picos,' is a humorous version of a very old theme. Rarities and first editions, original copies of the older literature, etc., can be procured almost as well in London as in Spain ; for the secondhand booksellers, as a rule, know the full market values, and are not disposed to sell at a lower rate. There is no lack, however, of handy modern editions at rates to suit all purses. Spain is not, like France or England, piossessed of only one great literary centre. She has two, if not three, — Madrid, Barcelona, and Seville. First and cheapest of these modern issues are the tiny but fairly printed volumes of the 'Biblioteca Universal,' at 2 reals, or 5d. each (Calle Madera, 8 Madriil). In these are to be found a really good selection of the best Spanish authors of all time. Other excellent collections are those published by D. Cortezo and Co. of Barcelona, the ' Biblioteca Clasica Espanola' at 6 reals (2 francs) a volume, and the series 'Arte y Letras,' of more recent authors, at 12 reals, or 3 fi-ancs the volume. The same house also publish some good illustrated works. At Barcelona, too, is issued a series of rarer historical and theological works — ' La Verdadera Ciencia Espaiiola' at 5 and 6 reals per volume. At a slightly higlier price, 4 and 5 pesetas (francs) per volume, are the ARCHITECTURE. Ixi nicely printed ' Coleccion de Escritores Castellanos,' published by Dubrull at Madrid, and the well-known ' Biblioteca de Autores Espaiioles' in 71 volumes, 4to, at aboTit 10 pesetas per volume, published by Rivadeneyra. Of ibrcign editions we may mention the ' Coleccion de Autores Espanoles,' by Brockhaus, Leipzig, at 3 marks per volume. Students will do well also to study Professor Gorra's Lingua e Letteratura Sp/'gnuola delle Orirjini (Milan : Hoepli, 1897) and H. Butler Clarke's The Citl Cam2}eador (London, 1897). Architecture. Spain stands pre-eminent among nations for the number and importance of its religious, civil, and military edifices. It has been surpassed by no other coi;ntry in this respect and equalled by very few, and even these — we mean Italy, Germany, and France — possess neither the same variety of styles nor yet the first-rate excellence of the examples of each. The different races that settled here in turn, whose sway lasted several centuries — the Romans, Goths, and Arabs — were all builders, all artists, each with their own peculiar style. Edifices were, besides, likely to be more niunerous in this than in most other countries, in a land where quarries of beautiful soft and hard stone seemed to invite the builder's hand ; where oak and pine forests abounded ; where the glo- rious light of sun and stars give such relief to outlines, such depth to shadows, such brightness of tints to stone and marble ; where the soft air, but rarely moistened, embalms the ruin and preserves the monument better and more generously than the hand of man ; where rich mines exist everywhere, and yielded treasures to defray the expenses and mate- rials to heighten the effect. The architectitre of Spain has been comparatively free from that foreign influence and fashion which in other countries have crippled native genius. It may be said to have seldom been imitative, or the result of adaptation and comparison. Foreign styles, no doubt, were implanted with new races in the rich soil of Spain ; they gi'ew luxuriously, but never lost the standard original type ; and when it did at any period adopt new accessories, not general forms, the phase was native — that is, belonged to races predominating exclusively and for centuries in Spain. Although placed so near Italy and France, yet Spain stood for centuries a stranger to both. Hence that abrupt difference in art, which observers may remark between France and Spain as they cross the frontiers. Spanish architecture during the middle ages was almost exclusively religious, palaces being little else than the chieftain's stronghold, and public edifices not required where the people were slaves ; its history has been to a certain extent that also of the Spanish Church. The vicissitudes of the latter may be traced in the numberless edifices that IXii G^JS^ERAL INFORMATION. were erected ; the antagonism between the regular and secular clergy, and final supremacy of the latter, determining the early generalisation of cloistered conventual buildings, and the subsequent erection, in theii stead, of parish churches and cathedrals — facts that influenced not a little the architects of these ages. The Church was an im})erium in imperio ; the cathedrals were the centres of all the movement, the heart of the peoj^le. Within its i)recincts the cortcs often assembled, the kings were christened, anointed, and buried. The mystical Autos, or Sacred Plays, were frequently performed. They were also museums of natural history, where stuffed animals of rare species Avere carefully preserved, beside specimens of jirecious marbles, corals, elephants' tusks, etc., sent as presents by Eastern princes or successful navigators. The greatest architects, painters, sculjjtors, were employed to erect and decorate them. The finest specimens of wood-carving, of iron and silversmiths' work, and glass, were to be sought fur within their walls. In Sjjain, therefore, the student of architecture has a great deal to see, to admire, and to learn ; and despite tlie neglect and vandalism which have strewn the land with ruins and injured many a peerless relic, the number of edifices extant is very considerable, and the state of preservation remarkable. The circle is extensive, comprising, as it does, so many periods and styles, from the vast proportions of the Ixoman ruins of M^rida and Murviedro ; the mysterious and gloomy Romano- Byzantine churches of Asturias ; the pomp of decoration, and lacelike ornamentation, never sui-passed in Baghdad or Damascus, of the mosques and palaces of the Khulifs of Cordova, Seville, and Granada ; the bold- ness and sveltezza of the Tedcsquo (Gothic) cathedrals of Toledo, Leon, Seville, and Burgos ; the majestic Groeco-Roman of the Escorial, to end with the artistic anarchy and absurd caprices of the churrigueresque in modern times. The domestic architecture has some very fine examples, mostly belonging to the 16lh and 17th centuries. Their style is Moro- Italian in the South, and Gotho-plateresque in Aragon, Cataloiiia, etc. SeAalle, Zaragoza, Barcelona, Segovia, contain several excellent specimens. The castellated architecture of Spain has not been as yet properly in- vestigated- There are, nevertheless, very interesting remains of waUs, fortifications, cubo-towers, military roads, barracks, magazines, etc., of the Roman, Arab, Gothic, and Castilian periods at Almeria, MurWedro, Tarragona, the Leonese and Asturian cities, Seville, Granada, Segovia, etc. etc. They abound in Castile, as that very name evinces sufficiently ; and ' chateaux en Espague,' likened to ' castles in the air,' was a saying which originated with the difficulties attending their capture. We subjoin a short classification of Spanish architecture, including a list of the principal examples of each period and style, finishing with a list of the most celebrated architects, the date in which they flourished, and their most important works. AJICIUTKCTURE. Ixiii 1, Roman Period. This favourite Roiium province was filled with splendid monuments, mostly dating from the reign of Octavianus to Sept. Severus. They have been ill treated by Goth and Arab. Spanish neglect and distaste for yesterday have done tlie rest. Excavations are rare, and undertaken without plan or fimds. The medals and coins of that period are of great value, to complete what remains and reproduce what is no more. Examples. — Bridges of Alcantara (the finest), of Merida, Badajoz, Martorell, Tudela, Alconetar (near Coria) ; the Aqueducts of Segovia, Mdrida, Tarragona, Carmona, Fuente Ovejima ; the Military Roads of Merida to Cadiz, the Via Lata between Merida and Salamanca, Aldea Nueva de Baiios, Vinueso ; the Walls, Towers, etc., of Coria, Lugo, Tar- ragona, Seville ; Triumphal Arches of Merida, Bara, Cabanes, Martorell, Torredembarra ; the AmphitJicatres of Merida, Murviedro, Cartagena, Italica, Acinipo, Toledo. Besides the excavations in Salave Mines and Pgramidal Towers of Augustus, near El Padron, both in Asturias, Torres de Este (Prov. Coruna), the principal cities which antiquaries can make headquarters are — Merida, Murviedro, Italica, Talavera la Vieja. 2. Latin-Gothic Style, 4th to 8th Century. The Roman style, as altered by the Goths, and \vith the Byzantine modifications it already possessed when they adopted it. From conver- sion of Constantine, 323 to 714, or Invasion of Arabs. The type of the Romano-Byzantine and Asturian. Examples. — But few, principally at Toledo. Sr. de Assas' excellent work on Toledo (' Album Artistico de Toledo') may be consulted and relied upon. The Arabic translations are by S. Gayangos. 3. Asturian, 8th to 11th Century. A peculiar style usually classed as Gothic, but more truly ' Eomane,' allied to the Romane of S. France. Apparently an independent de- velopment of the Gallo- Roman, as the true Romanesque was of the Byzantine. Its characteristics are the round arch, single (sometimes three) narrow naves, barrel or very early-pointed roofs, good foliage, and occasionally animal enrichment. The ' basilica ' arrangement is common. Examples. — Santa Maria de Naranco and San Miguel de Lino (Oviedo) of 9th century ; San Salvador de Valdedios, Penalva, of the 10th century ; Santa Cristina de Lena, churches of Abamia, Baicena, etc., all in the province of Oviedo. 4. Romano-Byzantine, or Byzantine (Romanesque), divided into 2 periods : 1st, 11th to 12th Century. Dawn; 2d, 12th to 13th — Its Acme. In the 2d period the contact with the Arabs orientalised accessoriea Ixiv GENERAL INFORMATION. The pointed arch appears, and the transition to Gothic cr Ogival is evident. It is always the original Latin forms, as modified in Asturias, but of superior art. Exainples of the 1st. — San Isidoro of Leon, San Daniel of Gerona, cathedral of Jaca, San Cucufate del Valles and San Pablo of Barcelona. Of the 2d. — San Juan de Amandi (Asturias) ; churches of Santiago, de Zamora, Veruela (Aragon) ; those that mark the transition to Gothic are — Cathedrals of Tarragona, Salamanca, Zamora, Colcgiata of Toro, San Viceute at Avila. The Norman is evident in several churches of this period in N.W. and E. of Spain. This style, modified by the different races that introduced it from Byzantium and Italy, is called Saxon in England, liomanesque and Romane in France, Lombard in Italy, Teutonic in Germany, Norman, etc. We have called it Byzantine throughout this work, as this is the usual appellation in Spain and will facilitate research. 5. Gol/iic, \Zth to IQth Centunj. It is called sometimes in Spain Tedesco, as thought to be of Germanic origin ; was generalised mainly by St. Ferdinand and his queen, aided powerfully by French allied sovereigns, foreign bishops, and artists. It was not, nevertheless, a more adoption of new and foreign forms, but a gradual combination wdth the Byzantine of the end of the 12th century. There is, however, little doubt that portions of the fuiest Gothic cathe- drals in Spain are admirable copies of French churches Is divided into three periods. 1st. (13th century) Transition, Dawn, 2d. The French Rayonnant (14th century), in all its purity, majesty, and originality. 3d. The Flamboyant, florid, orientalised (15th, and beginning of 1 6th century). Was rapidlj' adojjted and successfully cultivated, tlie examples being among the most glorious in the world. Exam2>les oi the. 1st (1 3th century). — Earlier portions of cathedrals of Leon, Burgos ; the cathedral of Cuenca, of Segorve, of Corio, of Badajoz, Santa Maria de la Antigua (at Valladolid). Of the 2d (14th ceutuiy), — Cathedrals of Leon Burgos, Toledo, Llurcia, Barcelona, Gerona, Tortosa, Sen of Zaragoza, Oviedo. Of the 3d (15th to beginning of 16th century). — Cathedrals of Huesca, Segovia, Salamanca {Nueva), and the Cartuja of Miraflores ; belfries of the Cathedrals of Burgos, Leon, Oviedo, CapUla del Condestable in the Cathedral of Burgos, etc. 6. Revival or Plateresque, 16th Century. The Italian Cinquecento (so called from the 16th century, when it sprung) ; the French Renaissance, introduced into Sjnxin under the Catholic Kings. The constant communications and wars with Italy ; the revival of learning, etc., aided very powerfully to its general adoption It wa-s called estilo jilateresco, fiom its surface-oniamentation and ara ARCHITECTURE, Ixv besques, wliich were as carefully wrought as a chiselled piece of plate. It might almost be divided into Gotho-plateresque (begimiiug of 16th century) and ItaUan-plateresque (end of 16th, beginning of 17th). Examples. — Hospital de Santa Cruz (Toledo), Colegio Mayor de Santa Cniz (Valladolid), transept of the cathedral of Cordova, ditto of the cathedral of Burgos, San Marcos at Leon, to-\vn-hall at Seville, Sacristia Mayor of the cathedral of Seville. Private houses and patios at Seville, Zaragoza, Barcelona, etc. 7. Grceco-Roman, 16th and 17 th Centuries. This pseudo-classical style, never entirely un-Gothicised in Spain, denuded of all ornamentation, pedantic, pagan, and cold, was generally adopted in the reigns of Charles V. and Philip II. The imitation was clumsy in general, out of keej^ing ■s^ith the times and wants. There are, however, some exceptions which reveal genius, and are characterised by vast proportions and majestj-. Examples. — Palace of Charles V. at Granada ; Escorial ; palaces of Madrid, Aranjuez, La Granja ; S. fa§ade of Alcazar of Toledo ; cathedrals of Granada, VaUadolid. It is sometimes called estilo de Herrera, from this great architect's exclusive use of it. The decline of art in Spain followed that of the monarchy. Borro- miui's school was followed, and the j^rinciijles exaggerated. Eococo became the ' beau iddal,' and the so-called classic edifices were over- loaded with gildmg, plastered on wood, marble, and bronze, tortured into most ridicidoiis shapes. It was the faithful transcript of the age. Racine and Corneille's periwig — Eomans dressed with ruffles and jabot. It may be defined the Gongorism of architecture, just as Gougora's poetry can be called literary churrigueresque — a name generally applied to designate this bad taste, as being that of Josd Churriguera, an otherwise able architect, who used and generalised it. V. Rodriguez, with others, endea- vom-ed in vain to regenerate the style, and built several edifices that evince his good intentions. The examples are scattered all over Spain. Cathedral of El Pilar at Zaragoza ; palace of San Teluio at Seville ; and most of the churches of Madrid. Moorish Architecture. The fundamental elements belong to the Romano-Byzantuie and Persian schools. Many, if not all, the principal characteristics are clearly defined in Scripture as abeady used in Palestine. The examples that are scattered in the breadth and length of the land, but more especially in the south, are of the highest order, and were never surpassed in the East, Sicily, or Africa. The style first introduced partook somewhat of the Berber character, Ixvi GENERAL INFORMATION. was eiinple, soberly decorated, the basilica ground-plan of the Byzantine being adopted for mosques — great multiplicity of arches, baseless columns, being some of its features ; then, gradually advancing in splendour, it acquired more elegance and lightness at the cost of originality. Constant intercourse with Asia, and antagonistic hatred to the Christian, prevented mixtures vnih. Gothic, with which its love of detail, minute ornamenta- tion, etc., had more than one similarity ; and many of its accessories — stalactite ceilings, horseshoe arches, mosaic dados, etc. — were readily adopted by the victorious Christians, and the combinations of their own with it were called !Muzarabic. Moorish aichitecture may be divided into three periods and styles. 1st, Byzantine -Ai-abic ; 2d, Mauritane - Almohade ; 3d, Mudejar or Granadine. Examples. — Of the 1st period (8th to 10th century), mosque of Cordova, remains of Medina Azzahra, near Cordova, walls of Ubeda, etc. Of the 2d (11th to 13th century), Giralda of Seville, chapel of Villa- viciosa in the cathedral of Cordova, great hall in the Alcazar of Seville, remains of a great mosque in the cuthedi'al of Seville, Sta. Maria la Blanca at Toledo. Of the 3d (13th to 15th century). Alcazar of Seville, Alham- bra, Generalife, Cuarto Real (Granada), Transito at Toledo, Casa de Pilatos at Seville, etc. A LIST OF THE MOST CELEBEATED SPANISH ARCHITECTS. Romano-Byzantine. Tioda. 8o2 (iEra, 840). Ch. del Salvador at Oviedo ; San Tirso. Viviano. 9th century. San Pedro de los Monies. Gino. 980. San Salvador de Bafios. Vitanibeti (Pedro). 1065. San Isidore, at Leon. Guiberto Guitardo. 11 17. Cloisters of San Pablo del Campo, Barcelona. il/a/^t; (Maestro). 1160. Portions of Calh., Santiago. Sanc/iez (Benito). Cath. , Ciudad Rodrigo. Cristobal (Pedro). Gualterio (probably Walter). Jordan, etc. Gothic. xiii. and xiv. centuries. Perez (Pedro). 1226. Early portions of Cath. of Toledo. Sahat (Pedro). 1309. Castle of Bellver. Andrea (Vs&To). 1348. Works in Navarre. Arias (Lope). 1372. Alcazar of Ciudad Rodrigo. A l/onso (RoAngo). 1390. Cath., Toledo. Martinez (Alfonso). 13S6. Cath., Seville. Fabra (Layme). Franch (Juan). 1392. Cath., Barcelona. 1381. Cath., Valencia. XV. CENTURY. Gontez (Alvar). 1418. Cath., Toledo A nequin de F.gas (Belgian). Toledo. 1454. Cath., 1494. Cath., Cath., Seville. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Cath., Burgos. Works at Alcali de Enrique de Egos (his son), Toledo. Garcia (Pedro). 1421. Norman (Juan). 1462. Pedro de Toledo. 1472. Simon (Maestro). 1496. yuan Colonia. 1442. Gumiel (Pedro). 1492. Hendres. XVI. CENTURY. Hontailon (Juan Gil). 1511. Cath., Sala- manca. /io//rt« (Guillen de). Ob. 1431. Cath., Leon. Gual (Bartolom^). Ob. 1416. Cath., Bar- celona. Compte (Pedro). Ob. i486. Cath. , Valencia. Revival and Platkresqle. A I. Berrtiguete. 1500. Sculpture more especially. Martin deGainza. 1553. Cas. Real. (Cath., Seville). Diego Riaflo. 1530. Sc. Mayor. (Cath., Seville). Covarrubias {PtSiow&o). 1512-31. Works at Toledo. Escovedo (Fray Juan). 1481. Works at Segovia. Ibarra (Pedro de). 1521. Works aZ Sala- manca. ./?«J2 (Feman). 1523- Works at Cordova. Bndnjoz (Juan dc). 1512. Sau Marcos, Leon, etc. ARCHITECTURE. Lxvii A LIST OF THE MOST CELEBRATED SPANISH ARCHITECTS — Continued. Borgofla{Tc\\^ Vigarni). 1525. Toledo, etc. Blay (Pedro). 1435. Works at Barcelona. f^a/>, or screen rising from it, is called retablo. The latter are generally very magnificently gilt and sculptured. The right side of the altar — that is, the right of the celebrant looking //-ow the altar — is called lado del evangelio; the left is lado de la epistola. Most cathe- drals have a parish church, jjarroquia {cura jxirroco is a parish priest), attached to them, and a capilla real, for the entombment of princes. The chapter is el cahildo. The sagrario is a special chapel, where the Holy of Holies is often placed, de manijiesto, or displayed. The vestry is la sacristia, the sexton el sacristan. The relics, vestments, plate, etc , are kept in what is called el relicario. Monaguillos are the choir boys. Misa Mayor, High Mass. The belfry is la torre, el campanario. The principal objects to see in a Spanish church are : the high altar, stalls in the choir, lateral chapels, the relics and vestments in the sacristia. Ask for the sacristan, and explain the object of your visit. In case of unwillingness, address yourself to any priest attached to the church. The fee may vary from a peseta to five francs. In a cathedral, the Sacristan Ixviii GENERAL INFORMATION. Mayor must be applied to. The liours to visit are from 8 a.m. to 1 2, aTiainted frescoes. S(>/le. — ' Introduced into the school of Seville that bold and vigorous touch which was adopted by Velazquez.' His drawing is correct, his knowledge of anatomy and pro- portions of the human body remarkable ; expression, symmetry in the groups, good and vigorous colouring, often laid on with an extraordinary inqyasto. Principal Works. — Picture of San Hermenegildo at the Picture Gallery, Seville, and a Last Judgment in the Church of San Bernardo, Seville. Francisco Ilerrera (el Mozo), born 1622; died 1685; son of the fonner. (His elder brother, Herrera el Ihihio (the fail'), was also a painter, less known). He studied in Rome, and, like his elder brother, painted almost exclusively fish, and still-life pieces, and was called at Rome ' II Spagnuolo degli pesci.' Style. — Imitated his father's style ; surpassed him in the painting of flower-pieces and bodegones ; inferior in his colouring, where the reddish half-tints predominate, and was well ac- quainted with the happiest efl'ecls of chiaro-oscuro. Princiiml Pictures. — Picture Gallery, Madrid, No. 74-1 ; Cupola of the Church of Atocha, Madi'id ; and Cupola of Choir of the Chiuxh of San Felipe el Real. NJB. — His im.cle, Bartolome, painted portraits at Seville. Alonso Cano, born 1601 at Granada; died 1667. Studied under Pacheco and Juan del Castillo, and was also a great sculptor and an architect. Sf^/le. — It is doubtful whether he was not greater as a sculptor than as a painter. His manner is soft, rich, and pleasing, and he might be called the Spanish Correggio. His pencil was free and fertile, yet correct and natural ; his colouring rich and fine, but a little smoky ; the outlines consequently appear somewhat indistinct when one is close, though the detail and purity of the form may be seen at a certain dis- tance from the picture. In the expression of his figures he was fidl of sentiment and tenderness, witliout being feeble or affected. The taste of his draperies and his forms in general pure. Priyicipal Works. — Cathedral of Granada. PictiU'e Galleiy, Madrid (eight specimens). Church of Monte Sion, Seville, Cathedral of Seville, University of Seville, Chnrch of San- tiago, Malaga, Church of San Girus, Madrid. Pedro Atanasio Bocanec/ra, born at Granada. Was a pupil of Cano, and studied also Pedro de Moya's style. Worked at the Cathedral of Granada, where see Virgin and San Bernardo, the Scourging at the Escorial, and Picture Gallery, Madrid. Sebastian de Llanos y Valdes, lived in 1667. A pupil of Herrera el Viejo, and was killed by Cano in a duel. His works are very seldom found ; they are very rich in colouring. PAINTING SCHOOL OF SEVILLE. Ixxvii Pedro lie Moya, born at Granada 1610 ; died 1666. FeUow-pupil of MoDso Cano and Murillo under Castillo. Principally imitated Van Dyck, whom he went to study in England in 1641. His successful imi- tation of this master is said to have exercised some influence on the style of Murillo. Francisco Zurharan, born at Fuentes de Cantos (Estremadura) 1598 ; died 1662. Was a pupil of Las Eoelas. Shjle. — Most correct drawmg ; called the Spanish Caravaggio. Equal t(j Cano in reputation, not so tender but more vigorous ; great loftiness of wonderful finish of the details in dress, and beauty and truth of tlie heads ; generally severe in style, simple in composition ; a peculiar pinky tone, especially in female cheeks. The prevalent use of rouge at that time influenced his eye, as it did that of Velazquez. Pi-incijml Works. — Picture Gallery, Seville, Cathedral of Seville. At the Picture Gallery, Madrid, tliere are fourteen specimens. Juan de Valdes Leal, bom at Cordova in 1630 ; died 1691. A pupil of Antonio del Castillo, and the rival, or rather adversary, of Murillo. Style. — Forced and violent attitudes, sombre and gloomy subjects, a vigorous and brilliant colouring, somewliat exaggerated, and tinted with violent and green tones. Principal Works. — La Caridad, Seville ; Pic- ture Gallery, Seville; Picture Gallery, Madrid, No. 1049. Bartolome Esteban Murillo, bom at Seville, January 1, 1616 ; died at Seville, April 3, 1682. Was a pupil of Castillo, never visited Italy, and began by imitating Eoelas and Zurbaran. Style. — Has three recog- nised, different manners : — 1. The frio, or cold ; 2. The cdlido, or warm ; 3. The vaporoso, or misty. In the first, ' the outline was decided, if not hard, and the tone of the shadows and the treatment of the lights remind us of Zurbaran or Caravaggio.' The second, which he adopted about 1648, is characterised by a softer outline and a more mellow colouring. His third style, which is the most characteristic of his works (though the painter preferred the second, or cdlido himself), exhibits softness and vigour with the finest colouring. He now painted rather hastily, which produces a vajjorous, hazy effect thrown over the whole — a sort of luminous veil. He was pre-eminent as a colouiist. The colour of the flesh in contact wdth Unen b very fine ; and he has an object distinct from most of his countrymen, and ' aims at the general character of flesh when tinged with the glow of the sun. It is never minute or par- ticular, but a general and poetical recollection of nature ; and when suc- cessful it is of the same class, and, in no remote degree, an approach to Titian and Correggio.' (Wilkie.) His most successful works have for subjects the Virgin and Infant Deity. He was, therefore, called ' El pintor de los concepciones,' and the children and cherubs he painted, ' los ninos de Murillo.' Principal Works. — His own favourite painting is St. Thomas giving Ahns, at the Picture Gallery, Seville — he is bettei studied here than at ]\tadrid ; — Picture Gallery, Seville ; Cathedral ditto ; La Caridad, ditto, and Picture Gallery, Madrid. Ixxviii GENERAL INFORMATION. Sebastian Gomez. A pujiil and the mulatto slave of Miirillo. Pedro Niutez de rjY^aric^Jc/o, bom at Seville 1(535; dicil 1700. He was a iiupil of ^Iiirillo, and was, with Tobar, the best pupil and imitatoi of the- master's style, and their works are often mistaken as being by him. (See at the Pictiue Gallery, Madrid, No. 1119.) Francisco Meneses Ossorio, died begimiing of 18th centuiy. Pupil of ^lurillo. He painted at Seville, and finished at Cadiz the picture Ids master was jjaiuting when he fell from the scaflbld and soon after died. Juan GarzoHjdied at Madrid in 1729. A pupil of Murillo. Ignacio de Iriarte, bom at Azcoitia 1620 ; died 1685. Pupil of Herrera el Viejo. Painted almost exclusively landscapes. Tohar, born 1678 ; died 1758. Pupil of Fajardo and successful imi- tator of IMurillo. Specimens at Chapel del Consuelo (Cathedral, Seville) ; two at Picture Gallery, JIadrid. School of Madrid. May be also called of Castile, and is composed of painters from Sala- manca, Burgos, Valladolid, Madrid. Ga.fpar Becerra, bom 1520 at Baeza ; died 1570. Studied in Italy, and was made hj Philip II., in 1563, his court- painter. Introduced Avith Berruguete the Italian ta.ste in Spain. Most of his works have perished. A retablo in the Cathedral of Astorga ; very Florentine style. Alfonso Sanchez Coello, born, beginning of 1 6th century, near Valencia ; died 1590. Was probably of Portuguese origin (Coelho) ; became a pupil of Antonio Morn, and studied in Italy. S(>/le. — * Was peculiarly distinguished in portraits. Great life and triTth to nature.' He enjoyed great distinction from Philip II. Princiixd Works. — At Picture Gallery, Madrid, eight fine pictures, all portraits, save a St. Catherine, painted on cork ; Escorial. Juan Pantoja de la Cruz, born at Madrid 1551 ; died at Madrid 1610. Tlie best pupil of A. S. CoeUo. ' These pictures, by Coello and Pantoja, of Infants and Infantas, bristling Avith the stiffness and formality of the old Sjianish Court, independently of their merit as works of art, are in themselves most interesting.' Several pictures, mostly portraits, in tlie Picture Gallery, Madrid. ./. Fcriui'ivlez Navarrete, sumamed El Mudo, born at Logi'oiio, 1526 ; died 1579. He studied in Italy, and worked in the Escorial. ' One of his Tiest is the Baptism of Christ at Madrid Picture Galleiy, from the Escorial. A coloui-ist of the Titian school.' L/ais de Carhajal, or Carabajal, bom at Toledo 1534; died begin- ning of 1 7th centuiy. Painted at the Escorial, Pardo, and Cathedral, Toledo, with Bias del Prado (1591). His Magdalen, a masterpiece, is in Madrid Picture Gallery (No. G75). He was named painter to Philip II. Velazquez {Don Diego Veltizquez de Sil(a),honi at Seville 1699; PAINTING SCHOOL OF MADRID. Ixxix died at Madrid 1660. Became a pupil of HeiTcra the Elder and PachecOj and studied also in Italy. Style. — He first imitated Caravaggio and Ribera, of which the Aguador de Sevilla, now in Apsley House, and an Adoration of Shepherds, in the Louvre, are examples. He was essentially a ' naturalist.' He stands as a portrait-painter side by side with Vandyck and Titian. He often falls short of the elegance of the foiiner, and he is inferior to the latter in brilliancy and colour ; but the feeling and spirit of bis subject are admirably conceived and executed. Every touch has meaning, and nothing is conventional. ' For handling no c.ne siirpasses him, but in colour Reynolds is much beyond him, and so is Murillo. In painting an intelligent portrait, Velazquez is nearly unrivalled ; but where he attempts simple nature or sacred subjects he is far inferior to MuriUo.' {Wilkie) Principal Wo)-h. — At the Madrid Gallery, his Lanzas, Meninas, and Borrachos ; besides others in some noblemen's houses at Madrid. Pareja, born 1606 ; died 1670. A pupU, and first the slave of Velazquez. The ' Call of St. Matthew,' by him, is at the Picture Gallery, Madrid. J. Bautistadel Mazo, bom at Madrid 1630 ; died 1687 ; Velazquez's son-in-law, and his most successful pupil. His works may be seen at Madrid and the Escorial. Mateo Cerezo, born at Burgos 1635 ; died 1675. A pupU of Carreiio. Celebrated for his numerous pictures o£ the Immaculate Conception. Valladolid, Jtladrid (Chapel of Atocha). /. Carreno, bom at Aiiles 1614 ; died 1685. Pupil of Las Cuevas. Worked at the Escorial and Royal Palace of Madrid. Claudio Goello, died at Madrid 1693. A pupil of Eizzi and Carrena His masterpiece is ' La Santa Forma,' at the Escorial. His genius was crippled by the prevalent bad taste of his times. Rizi {Francisco), born at Madrid 1608 ; died 1685. Pupil of Vin- cenzio Carducho. The Ricci, Carducci, Cajeci (Cajes), etc., were aU of Italian descent, and their works are of no great merit. Palomino, born at Bugalance 1653 ; died 1726. A pupU of Viddes Leal, but worked almost exclusively in Castile, Madrid, and Salamanca. Painted the cupola of sacristy of La Cartuja at Granada. More cele- brated for his literary than artistic works. He was the author of ' El Miiseo Pictorico,' etc. Menendez {M. Jacintu), born at Oviedo 1679 ; died 1752. Studied in Italy, and was especially a miniatiue-painter. Lais Menerdtz, the son and pupil of the former, and his younger brother, Francisco Antonio, were also painters. Luis, born 1716; died 1780. ITie re are thirty-eight paintings by him at the iladrid Picture Gallery. Goya. — Painted a great deal at Madrid. Born 1746 ; died 1828. One of the few really original Spanish painters who struck out a new IXXX GENERAL INFORMATION. palli. Great imagination. ' Skilled as well in the nianagenacnt of colour iind lirusli as iu that of the burin, aquafoiti?, and the lithographic stone ; his effects in scenes of common life are inimitahle for their surprising truth and force.' Respecting this master see Friarte's ' (Eu\Te de Goya.' There are, besides the above, several so-called Escuclas, as, for examplej that of Aragon, Avhose chief artists were — R. Torrente (died 1323) ; Guillen Fort, his pupil ; Bonant de Ortiza (1437) ; Pedro de Aponte (1479), who studied in Italy tmder Ghirlandajo ; F. Pelegret, who studied with P. Caravaggio ; Domin Forment, the Cellini of Aragon ; A. Golcovan (1588); Geronimo de Mora (1587) ; Ximenes (died 1666). Then, in the 18th century, the more inferior Artiga, Piano, Rabiella, Ahnor, Casanova, etc., ending with Martinez, Bayeu, and Goya, the best of whom belong more properly to the Madrid school, if there was any at that time. In Cataluiia, the Viladomat, Baylon, Perramon, CesiUes, etc., have been said by native critics to constitute a school ; but the fact is, that what is generally \mderstood by that name hardly applies even to the group of painters that flourished at Seville, Toledo, Valencia, and Madrid. Books of Reference. — Mr. Stirling's ' Annals of Spanish Painters,' is the most important and accurate historical work upon Spanish painters. It has been translated into Spanish, with notes, by Maldonado Macanaz. It is based on Cean Bennudez's ' Diccionario.' Captain Cooke Widdrington's ' Spain in 1843,' contains some usefiil infor- mation. ' Les Musees d'Espagne,' by L. Viardot (Paris, i860, 3d ed.), was the first work that called the attention of foreign cognoscenti to Spanish pictures. The substance is based on Palomino and Cean Bermudez. The appreciations are considered most trustworthy, and we have transcribed many of them almost entirely. ' Handbook of Painting' by Sir Ed. Head, vol. ii., containing the Spanish and French schools; London, Murray, 1854. Most reliable for information, and with an account of the Spanish pictures out of Spain. Passavant's 'Die Christliche Kunst in Spanien,' 1853 ; Leipzig. R. Cumberland's ' Anecdotes of Eminent Spanish Painters,' 2 vols. i2mo; London, 1782. (Contains a catalogue of the pictures of the King of Spain in 1787.) A. Palomino, ' Museo Pictorico y Escala Optica,' 3 vols. fol. ; Madrid, 1795-6-7. (An abridged edition published in London in 1744.) Somewhat inaccurate, but useful. F. Pacheco, ' El Arte de la Pintura, su Antigiiedad y Grandezas ;' Seville, 1649. Very scarce, and of great importance for the history of Spanish paint- ing. The substance of much has passed into other works. He wrote a MS. ' Descripcion de Retratos Autenticos,' etc. — a series of biographical sketches of the painters and literati who frequented his studio. The original MS. has been lost. A second edition, by G. C. Villamil, was published in Madrid in 1866. Felipe de Guez>ara, ' Comenlarios de la l^intura' (published by Ponz). Madrid, 1788. SCFLPTURE. Ixxxd Cean Bermiidez, 'Diccionario Historico de los mas ilustres Profesores de las Bellas Artes en Espana,' 6 vols. i2mo ; Madrid, 1800. This work is now being supplemented by a series of papers by the Conde de Vifiaza in the Revista de Ciencias IlistSricas, Barcelona, 1888. Consult, also, Madrazo's Catalogue of the Madrid Museo (two vols.), and, for the Aragonese school, Minano's 'Diccionario Geografico,' which contains a paper on it by Cean Bermudez. Also, for Velazquez, P. Lefort's papers in the Gazette des Beaux Arts, 1879-1884; Curtis' 'Velazquez and Murillo' (Lond. and New York, 1S83); Liicke's 'Velazquez' in Dohme's Ktmst tend Kiinstler, and Justi's Z'/^fiP Velazquez uttd sehi JahrJiundet-t {2 vo\s.,TioTiQ, 188S). Senor Menendez y Pelago's Historia de las Ideas Esteticas en Espafia may well be consulted ; and we strongly recommend Mr. Beales' 'Velasquez au Museede Madrid ' and ' Murillo ' in his Causeries sur PArt. Sculpture. Until the reign of Charles V. there was no study of anatomy, as the Church forbade dissection. This, together with indifference evinced towards Roman remains of art, contributed to paralyse the progress of sculpture. Besides, nudity was held to be indecent, and accordingly prohibited, although 'rien n'habille comme le nu,' said Voltaire. Sculpture, indeed, would never have existed but for the desire to represent the heroes and events of sacred history. Painted sculpture, a peculiarity of Spanish art, has always found favour over the simple marble. To be as life-like as possible, the figures were often clothed ; and beards, hair, eyelashes, were sometimes real. In this style they are considered more effective in churches than the cold marble, and more in accord with the rich varied tints of the painted glass and pavements, the heavy gilt and painted railings, and the draperies and pictures. These statues and sacred groups once removed from their appointed station must naturally appear, what they really are, out of place ; ' Lea hommes,' says La Rochefoucault, ' sont comme les statues, pour les juger il faut des voir en place.' On the altars they should have been left, for that was their place. Spanish sculpture exerted itself principally in the magnificently carved and estofado (gilt) retahlos, usually filled up with series of basso-relievo scenes from Scripture, the Virgin's life, or that of the tutelar patron of the lugar ; groups in the Trascoro and Trasaltar, besides single statues of saints with their attributes in the chapels dedi- cated to them. Alto-relievo medallions over doors, statues (never paiuted) in niches, recumbent or kneeling eflngies on tombs, etc., were also objects of the sculptor's chisel that deserve attention. The carved sillerias or stalls in the choirs are among the finest in the world. Sculpture here, as elsewhere, in some degree, has followed the gradations of architecture and painting. In the dark ages art disappeared through the oblivion of classical principles, and during the Byzantine and early Gothic period* sculpture in Spain was rude, symbolical, and conventional. The most brilliant period was the 16th century, when the study of Italian models, and a growing gusto for the Revival, introduced new ideas and created Ixxxii GENERAL INFORMATION. emulation. Towards the eucl of the 17th century art Tiecanie hastardised. and followed the precepts of the bad taste prevalent at that period, and in the present day sculpture may be safely said not to exist in Spain. In the 1 6th century its character was very peculiar, the life-like appeai-- ance of groups and statues was most startling ; the vigour, breadth, and expression are usually very remarkable ; the composition, especially of groups, freely conceived and generally well carried out ; the execution of details veiy exquisite, the attitudes theatrical and exaggerated. The general characteristic is action, which the impassioned, fiery Southeners like and understand better than repose, a more difficult and intimately gesthetic sentiment. The greatest sculptors have been Leon Leoni, and his son Pompeyo Leoni, natives of Italy, whose gilt-bronze statues at the Escorial and Valladolid are among the finest of their kind ; Alfonso Berrxiguete, the Spanish Bcnvenuto Cellini ; Becerra, who was a great anatomist, and even made the designs for an anatomical work published at Rome, 1554, the text by Dr. J. de Valverde, and executed two anato- mical statues (Cean Bermudez considers him as the firsit of Spanish sculptors ; his masterpieces are La Virgen de la Soledad, and a grand retablo in the Cathedral of Astorga, etc.) ; the fiery and grandiose Juan de Juni, the Michael Angelo of Spain ; Gregorio Hernandez, whose style is so elevated, graceful, and refined ; Montahes, sumanaed the Phidias of Seville, all grace, exquisite delicacy, and tenderness ; Alfonso Cano, his pupil, whose works exhibit much of his master's taste and elegance, com- bined ■with originality, expression, and excellent careful modelling. Sculpture in Spain was seldom considered otherwise than as an accessory to architecture. It became the tongue of edifices, which the unlettered could read, ' Libri idiotanuii,' all symbolical, and whose earlier impotency has been sometimes defined as conventional. The examples are scattered all over Spain, in churches, ruinous convents, noblemen's houses, and some museos ; in that of Valladolid there is the best collec- tion ; and it is in that city and Seville and Toledo that Spanish sculpture has to be principally studied. List of the principal Spanish sculptors, with the period of their death, or that when they flourished :— • Mateo, el Maestro, 1188 Alemaii, Juan, 1460 Dancart, el Maestro, 1495 Florentin, Miguel, 1510 Baitolome, el Maestro, 1520 Forment, Damian, 1525 Valdelvira, Pedro, 1540 Copin, Diego and Miguel, 1540 Berrugucte, Alfonso, 1545 Tordesillas, Caspar, 1545 Machuca, Pedro, 1545 Xamete (Hammed) 1350 Leoni, Leon, 1555 Villapando, Franco, 1561 Siloe, Diego de, 1563 'J'udelilla, 1566 Morel, Bart., 1566 Becerra, Caspar, 1366 Ancheta, Miguel de, 1575 Juni, Juan de, 1585 Jordan, Estbau, 1590 Leoni, Pompeyo, 1605 (a Florentine) Hernandez, Gregorio, 1635 Percyra, Manuel, 1645 Montanes, Juan 1\L Z., 1645 Cano, Alfonso, 1650 Roldan, Pedro, 1650 Tomd, NarcLso, and Simon GaviL-ui ToujA '738 PORCELAIN ixxxiii Terra-cotta we have omitted mentioning, as foreign, in one sense, to our subject. There are, however, several excellent specimens in churches, over portals in cathedrals (Seville), and the spirited, freely-modelled, coloured groups and statuettes of bull-fighting subjects at Malaga. Books of Reference. — We know of no Spanish works on iconography. Those of our readers who are curious of deciphering the now dead language expressed by sculpture in the early churches may consult Didrou's ' Manuel dTconographie Chretienne,' and the Abbe Crosnier's work on the same subject. A translation of the former, with valuable additions by Miss Stokes, has been published by Bell and Sons, London, i8S6. Most of the early sculptors, until perhaps the beginning of the 14th century, were also and especially architects, and belonged to monasteries, where men lost all individuality. Cean Bermudez's ' Diccionario ' may be consulted. Porcelain. Porcelain amateurs cannot look upon Spain without interest, as it has contributed a generous share to the potter's art. Such names as Majolica, Buen Eetiro, and Moorish Azulejos, are sufficient to awaken their sympathies and excite their zeal. The Carthaginian pottery, which principally flourished at Saguntum (now Murviedro, see Valencia), was very celebrated in the time of the Romans, and produced the 'Calices Saguntiui ' of Martial (xiv. 108), that were of that beautiful jasper-red, which Pliny mentions, in the manufac- ture of which, he adds, 1200 workmen were employed. {Vide Pliny, Hist. Nat., lib. xxxv. c. 12.) Fragments are still found here (beware of the usual impositions prac- tised on credulous travellers), and exhibit great elegance of design, being most Oriental in the outline. The Conde de Lumiare's work, ' Barros Saguntinos,' with prints (Valencia, Orga, 1779, 8vo.), throws some light on the subject ; but the names of the manufacturers, etc., are all un- known, for, alas ! — • True fame, like pore lain earth, for years must lay Buried and mix'd with elemental clay. — Hart. We know the Phoenicians excelled in the manufacture of earthenware cups, chalices, the Tor^g/ov of the Greeks, which, in the middle ages, were all made after the Greek and Roman models. The Romans did not neglect the manufactures of Spanish pottery, but the Mohammedans raised it to a high degree of excellence by the introduction of the general use of tiles of enamelled earthenware, called azulejos, from the Arabic ' Zuleija, zuleich,' a varnished tile. They are of Persian origin (the lazurad blue). We do not think that the early Moors knew them, and there are few vestiges of these tiles in the Mosque of Cordova ; those that exist must have been posterior to the 10th century. In the Mihr<\b (Mosque of Cordova), the enamelled vitreous mosaics, the finest f Ixxxiv GENERAL INFORMATION. of tlicir kind in Europe, Avere a Byzantine produce, the Greek •vj/jj^wa'/Sj and Arabic FsefysaL, or Sofeysalali. The AlhaiuLra tiles are anionj,' the finest in the world. The Moorish buildings at Seville and Toledo were also adorned with this style of decorative potteiy. The sun-dried bricks made iu Spain, an Arab iniportation, are called adole, mud- wall, Cob. The Spaniards learned the art of tile-pottery from the more refined Easterns, and became very proficient. As examples, we may mention the Dados in the Casa de Pilatos at Seville, the Portal de las Monjas de Sta. Paula, the cinquecento azulejos found here and there in the Alcazar of Seville, the azulejo picture in the chapel at this Alcazar, put up by Isabella the Catholic ; the fine azulejo pictures in the princiiJal fa§ade of the Hospital de la Caridad, after designs by Murillo (Seville), at Barce- lona, Convent de la Merced, cinquecento Dados, representing the victories of Jayme I. of Aragon, portion of exterior of La Seu at Zaragoza, etc. This charming fashion fell off iu the 1 7tli century, but the manufac- ture of them still continues to prosper in Spain, at Manises, near Valencia, and at Seville, and considerable importation takes place from Morocco. They are used in courts, passages, gardens, bath-rooms. They are seen in butchers' shops, fishmongers' stalls, etc. ; but they deserve all the attention of architects and men of taste. From the progress that porcelain-painting has made, which has great analogy with enamel-paint- ing, the jirocesses used at Limoges, the sujjerior means disposed of now, of making the tiles of almost any size and thiimess, they might be in many cases a substitute for cold, meaningless, heavy stone ; superior to frescoes, that do not generally last in the open air, and preferable to bricks ; they adapt themselves to all diniates. Ceramic decoration for the exteriors of buildings ought to be developed, and when applied soberly, and with intelligence, will not be found, we think, foreign to dignity aud repose. ' Nunca hards casa con azulejos,' shows, however, that this decoration is attended with expense. They are of a pale clay, backed, squeezed into moulds, glazed on the surface with a wliite opaque enamel, upon which designs are executed in colours. The Moorish tiles were painted ; the Spanish ones are generally stamped. The usual tints of the earliest were blue or brown. The secondary colours, purple, green, and orange, were also used. About the 15th century, whites and yellows were the fashion, and in the beginning of the 17th century, yellow, almost exclu- sively. But these tiles were not the only production of Moorish jjotteiy. The jars (jarras) and the water-coolers (alcarazas), all Oriental in shape were elaborately ornamented. These porous clay drinking- vessels, from Al-Karazah, are of coui'se a Moorish importation, and differ little from the Egyjjtian lardachs made at Khermeh. The Arabs' early zookh, which hold and keej) the water so A\'ell, were the prototypes of the botijo. PORCELAIN. IXXXV Martial's Trulla (xiv. 106 ; iv. 46), who mentions all the particulars of those made at Saguntum ; they are very like the Cenobic orctrud. They were probably introduced by the Phoenicians, and were made in Seville as early as 304 a.d. They are generally placed on tallas, or stands, and kept cool by being covered with linen. The most characteristic are made at Andujar. They are of different colours — yellow, brown, and white. Of Moorish ceramic art, the beautiful and celebrated vase at the Alhambra is a good specimen ; it dates about 1320 ; the companion of it was broken, and the fragments carried away by a French lady connois- seur. There is a copy at Sevres. The Hispano- Arabic pottery flourished till the beginning of the 1 7th century, the period of the final expulsion of the Moors ; its influence has been permanent. To this day all earthen- ware pots and vases are of Moorish form. The cdntaros and botijas of that particular peculiarly-scented bUcaro clay, the Gargantua-like Tinajas, where the wine and oil are kept, the alcarrazas of Valentia, cazuelas, etc., at Elche, are all of Eastern, very early forms. Besides, the Moors' pottery is considered to be the prototype of the Italian Majolica. The Hispano-Arabic pottery has been divided into three classes. 1st. Of the transition period between strictly Moorish and Spanish, a yellow ground with lustred-reddish ornaments, flowers, and birds. 2d. Of 13th to 14th century, generally ornamented with shields of Castile, Leon, Aragon, of a uniform golden yellow tone. 3d. 14tli to end of 15th century, with patterns in coloured enamel, with golden yellow ornaments, escutcheons, foliage, cypliers, sometimes animals. This is thought by Mr. Marryat to be the style coj^ied by Italian artists in the ] 6th century. ' Spain had the priority over Italy in the manufacture of enamelled pottery' {Marryat). The Moorish pottery passed from Valencia to Majorca, whence Alajvlica, and finally to Pisa and Pesaro. This seems undeniable from all that the highest authorities have stated (ScaUger, Fabio Ferrari, etc.), but no doubt the ground had been well prepared by the Sicilian Saracens (a.d. 827), who decorated the mosque at Palermo. Tlie clay that was used in the manufacture of Majolica ware is found in Majorca at Puigpunent and at Estellenchs. On the succession of the House of Bourbon, French pottery was in- troduced and imitated, and the Granja Porcelain Factory, an appendage to the Fabrica de Cristales, was established in 1688 by the French Thevart, and enlarged by Charles III. But a more important one was established by this latter sovereign at Madrid, in the Gardens del Buen Retire, about 1759. The models and workmen came from the Nea- politan manufactory of Capo di Monte. The influence of the Se\Tes, of wliich specimens were sent constantly as presents to the Spanish court, was felt in the workmanship of the new Spanish porcelain. The build- ings were destroyed during the French occupation. It is like Capo di Monte ware. Groups of figures, mostly mythological subjects, were also Ixxxvi GENERAL INFORMATION. made. TLo marks are : a fleur-de-lys, either in blue or stamped in relief, and the monogram of Charles III. The china calnnet in the Queen of Spain's palace at Aranjuez is certainly one of the best examples of the tasteful and tlie rare application of porcelain to the decoration of rooms. All the walls, ceilings, doors, are fitted up with high relievo Buen Retiro ware. The effect is admirable. The china-manufacture established at La Moncloa by Ferdinand VII., notwithstanding Senor Sureda's efforts, no longer exists. — Consult Oh. Davillier's excellent worlt on the subject, besides Marryat's ' History of Porcelain and Pottery, London, 1857, which has been recently translated into French, with valuable notes ; Jacquemart's Researches, etc. Music. ' Dancing,' says Mr. Ticknor, ' has been to Spain what music has been to Italy — a passion witli the whole population.' Spanisli national music is therefore, strictly mnsique dansante, composed to accompany dances, entremeses, roystering ballads, whence called Jamas hablada?, bayles entremesaxlos. Most of the Spanish musical instruments have an Eastern derivation, the rabel, zambomba, pandereta, guitarra, and gaita. Musical instruments, peculiar to some provinces, may be earlier still than the former, such as the gaita in Asturias, and the tamboril of the Basque. The emphatic instrument is tlie guitar, the •/.iddoa of the Greeks, and kinoor common to all the East. The words mean little or nothing. Tlie character of this Eastern music may be studied in Alfarabi's * Elements of Music,' in the Escorial Library (Casiri 1, 34). It contains, besides the principles of the art, the forms of the Arabic musical notes, and prints of thirty different instruments ; there is also an interesting collection of the lives of celebrated Spanish singers, both male and female, and of early Spanish airs. The Archives of the Cathedrals of Toledo and Se\dlle contain also curious and numerous collections of church music, mostly plain-chant. In the Colombine Library, Seville, see also Caspar de Aguilar's ' Arte de Principios de Canto Ellano en Espanol.' "With the exception of a few good composers of sacred music, there is little here that will interest the music- collector. We might mention several collections of Villancicos, sung in churches at Cliristmas time, as early as the 1 5th century, the words of which teem with piety : — See, for example, ' Villancicos y Coplas curiosas,' by Francisco de Avila, Alcala, 1606, one of which begins — O que bien que baila Gil Viendo al nino entre las pajas ! The Moors had different moods or harmonic phrases which they called roots (oussoiil); that called doughiih was applied to sorrowful subjects to v/hich the Spanish canas (ffaunia of the Moors, a song) belongs, which FESTIVALS Ixxxvii terminates with an Ay ! Ishac expressed love, and its malas partidas. They are said to have derived this system from tlie Persians. There was little variety, and really, as they themselves defined it, their music was ' Thn el edwar,' the science of cercles. La Borde's ' Essai sur la Musiqiie Ancienne et Moderne,' vol i. pp. 177-182 ; and Villoteau's 'Essai sur la Musique des Arabes 'in his work on Egypt, ^\'ill give further particulars. Zarzuelas, or Operas Comiques, have been recently introduced in the Spanish theatre, and meet with favour. The operas are mostly imita- tions from Verdi, Auber, etc., and of little value. The old airs are full of character (gracia y sal). A poetical vein which runs throughout renders them very attractive. To appear in all their glory, they must be heard in Andalusia on a summer's evening. There are also political airs of great effect, such as the ' Himno de Riego,' and the wild Basque ' Ay, Ay, Ay, mutila chapelligorriya ! ' Several recent collections of Basque music and Zortzicos (dances) may be now obtained at San Sebastian. The music in the churches is as a rule very indifferent. For the pop\ilar Spanish songs, with music, see * Poesias Populares ' colegidas por D. Tomas Segarra (Brockhaus, Leipzig, 1862). The Coplas, Seguidillas, etc., have been well collected by F. R. Marin, in ' Cantos populares Espaiiolas,' 5 vols., Seville, 1884. The Andalucian Gipsy songs are to be found in the 'Coleccion de Cantos Flamencos,' by Demofilo (Machado y Alvarez). A good collection of Spanish coplas, etc., with originals and French translations, is the ' Chants Populaires Espagnols,' by A. Fouquier (Paris, 1882).^ On early Spanish and Visi- gothic music a good work has been published in the ' Critical and Bibliographical Notes on Early Spanish Music,' by J. F. Riano (Quaritch, London, 1887). Festivals. In Spain, the dias de fiesta are almost exclusively of a religious character. Besides the great fiestas de precepto, instituted by the Santa Madre Iglesia to gladden the heart and amuse her children, there are dias de santos fixed upon in honour of some saint, and varying according to his or her nationality. Several saints, mostly Spanish, have been made patrons and tutelars, patronos of cities, of which several were natives, hijos — viz. San Isidro, that of Madrid ; at Seville, Stas. Justa y Rufina ; at Valencia, San Vicente Ferrer, etc. The smallest village, the most out-of-the-way, insignificant hamlet, has its pai-ticular saint. These festivities take place everj^vhere on the grandest scale that the means of the place can afford. The Church, all powerful and wealthy, exacted sacrifices from the pious or the superstitious; and thus its great festivities, especially in Italy and Spain, are remarkable for the wondrous display of pageants over which the sovereign presides, and in which the humblest Ixxxviii GENERAL INFORMATION. subject joins. Functions in the churches, processions tlirough the streets, decked with flowers and shaded by awnings, all served to bring religion before the eyes, if not to the hearts, of the peojile. The painter, the sculptor, the poet even contributed to augment the effect of funciones. Trade profited largely by them. Great periodical gatherings from distant points brought men who could have some sort of interchange of ideas, etc., together. Pilgrimages to celebrated shrines have been to this day great favourites with relic-loving Spaniards. The most fashionable shrines in the middle ages were Jerusalem, Rome, Loretto, and Santiago de Com- postella. The last, from the 12th to 14th century, was the resort ot kings, heroes, and the pious rabble. In the ' Fabliaux,' it is called ' Le Pelerinage d'Asturies,' and is Froissart's ' Pelerinage du Baron St. Jacques,' el Santo Varon. The reputed death-place of St. James the Apostle ia not yet without attractions to the devout both in Spain and abroad, and pilgrims flock thither in considerable numbers in the month of July. We shall briefly describe the most noteworthy festivities in the year, both religious and civil. Januanj. — The Jour-de-l'An is not as important here as it is in France, Christmas being the great public festivity. On the 5th, eve of Twelfth-day, Dia de Reyes (Jour des Rois), according to a very old tradition, groups of urchins and vagabonds go about the streets and to . the gates of cities, escorting gallegos and other simples, who are, or pre- tend to be, persuaded that the Magi are coming, to receive whom they carry ladders, torches, and drums. In the middle and upper classes, estrechos and motes are the fashion, and the cake {la torta) is duly eaten ; and the haha (bean) makes kings here, as elsewhere. On the 23d, San Ildefonso, patron of Toledo, at which city great festivities take place. On the 17th, another popular fiesta, Las Vueltas de San Antonio — the patron of cattle, horses, and mules. It is more especially a IMadri- lenian festivity. On the 23d, Dias or Saints'-day of the Prince of Asturias. Levee at the palace of Madrid, reviews and illuminations. February. — Carnival takes place and continues during several days, especially on the 15th ; masks go about the streets, intriguant, as the French say, acquaintances, friends, and enemies, all with good taste and sunviter in modo. Balls in the theatres. Miercoles de Ceniza (Ash Wednesday) closes the gaieties. On the 1 2th, Santa Eiilalia, Tutelar of Barcelona. Great festivities in that citj'. On the 23d, Santa Mai-ta, Tutelar of Astorga. Interesting to ai-tista for holiday costumes. March. — The Cuaresma (Lent) is religiously observed. Sermons in the churches ; sacred music in Madrid and the larger cities. On the 1st, San Hiscio, Tutelar of Tarifa. On the 19lh, St. Joseph FESTIVALS. Ixxxix — a very general name in Spain. Cards, bonbons, and bouquets, are sent to those whose dia it is ; and an omission is a grave sin in the eyea of the fair sez. On that day, great fiesta at Badajoz. On or about the 22d, Passion Sunday — Visit churches (High Mass) ; a sermon in the open air at Seville ; Domingo de Eamos ; Palm Sunday ; High Mass in cathedrals ; blessing of palms, which remain suspended round the balconies during the rest of the year. April. — Holy Week is the most interesting period of the Festival Year. The tourist must omit no funcion, as they are all very peculiar, national, and generally impressive. Endeavour to witness them in a large city, especially at Seville ; if not, at Valencia, Toledo, or Madrid. The period begins on "Wednesday the 1st, and lasts till Sunday, called de Pascua de Resiirreccion. On Thursday, Jiteves Santo at Madrid, the Lavatorio takes place, in commemoration of Christ washing the disciples' feet. The ceremony takes place at the palace, and after the morning service or oficios. The Queen goes through the unpleasant process of washing the feet of some dozen paupers, who partake afterwards of a royal limosna. In the afternoon, the Queen goes in state to make the round of the churches, visitar las estaciones. On Friday, Viernes Santo, a grand procession takes place through the streets. The best is at Seville, where it is 'irreverently but not inappropriately' called 'El Carnaval Divino.' The great peculiarity of the procession consists in the ' Pa-sos,' or groiips of sculptured effigies, painted, and often dressed up, intending to represent the different passages of the Passion of Christ, and borne on men's shoulders. These ' Pasos' are the property of religious associations, Cofradias {cum frater), several of them still very wealthy, which sprang up about the 14th century. These 'Pasos,' many of great intrinsic value as works of art, began to be introduced in processions in the early portion of the 17th century. They were originally borne on the shoulders of penitents (nazarenos). Their dress — long, white, or black robes, with higli pointed caps, and faces covered — is still worn in remembrance of them — names surviving things. The Cofradias vie with each other in producing the greatest effect at these processions. The principal Cofradia at Seville is that of ' El Santo Entierro,' of which the Sovereign is Her- mano Mayor, and its Paso is the finest. It dates from the conquest of Seville by St. Ferdinand. Visit tlie ' Monument©' in the churches — a gigantic temple of painted wood-work, often that of great artists, upon which the Host is placed for the Mass on Good Friday. Attend, also, to the ' Miserere,' sung after dark in the churches. At Valencia it is particularly impressive. The Holy Week functions are believed to be superior in pomp and interest at Seville to those at Rome. About the middle of the month the animated ' Feria' (fair) takes place at Seville, outside the Puerta de San Fernando. It should not be XC GENERAL INFORMATION. overlooked by artists, and is most peculiar and national. On the 5th, San Vicente, Tutelar of Valencia — great festivities there. J/ay. — At Madrid, the political fete del Dos de Mayo, and on the 15th San Isidro, Tutelar of the metropolis ; a Roineria takes jdace outside the ton'u. 20th. Grand Fiesta at Eonda. June. — The verbenas, veladas (wakes or virgils), of San Juan ; on llic 24th, of San Aiatonio de Padua ; 14th, at Madrid. 18th. San Ciriaco and Santa Paula, Tutelars of Malaga. El Dia del Corpus, Corpus Christi Day (La Fete-Dieu), generally takee place the first Thursday after Trinity Sunday. It is celebrated with great pomp in all caintals. The middle and lower classes prepare their best and new toilettes for that day. Streets are covered witli awnings. Flowers or fine gravel soften the hard pavement for tiny feet to move slowly about, and processions take place. July. — On the 25th, Santiago, Patron of Spain. Tourists in the North should endeavour to be at Santiago on that day, or on the 2d at Coruna. August. — On the Gtli, Fiesta at Oviedo and Avila ; on the 15th, La Ascension, the Blessed Virgin's Day — Church functions — High Mass at cathedrals. On the 20th, Fiestas of St. Greiras and San "Roque, nea: Gibraltar. September. — The Feria at Madrid begins on the 21st and lasts a fortnight. It is scarcely wovih. while mentioning it, and is falling ofl every year. October. — 5th. San Froilan, Tutelar of Leon. 9tli. Fiesta at Jerez. November. — On the 1st and 2d the cemeteries are visited, the tombs are decorated with funeral wreatlis. December. — 6th. Fiesta at Alicante. Tlie last week. Fiestas de Navidad, Christmas. Christmas Eve, La Noche Buena, is more import- ant than Christmas-day. The chui'ches are profusely lighted up. Music of all descriptions fills the air. Great slaughter of 'pavos' (turkeys^ takes place, and there begins an universal gargantuism of popular merri- ment, bonfires, etc. ; pastrycook-shops are decked out with ribbons^ flowers, and literally burst with niazapanes, jaleas, and turron ; the mar- ket-places exhibit pyramids of oranges, melons — the * Nacimientos,' or |)asteboard representations of the Nativity, with teira-cotta figures, COSTUMES NATIONAL DRESS. XCl eagerly purchased by children, and lighted up in every house, rich or poor. Suppers take place that night, and at midnight mass, la Misa del Gallo. Besides the above, there are very curious and early customs still in fashion in many out-of-the-way cities and shrines. Most vrere established in honour of the Virgin Santisima, whose name changes according to the difftH-ent attributes of her intercession, such as Nuestra Seiiora del Pilar, de la 0., del Buen Viege, La Blanca, del Buen Consejo, de las Nieves, de la Merced, del Milagro, del Amparo, de la Correa, del Remedio, de la Paz, etc. etc., in all upwards of thirty. The principal Pilgrimages are — to Montserrat, Santiago de Compostella and S. N. del Pilar, at Zaragoza. Our readers will find the following an interesting book upon such mattei-s : ' Relaciones de Solemnidades y Fiestas Piiblicas de EspaSa,' by Don Go. Alenda ; Mad. 1866. It has deserved the ' premie ' awarded by the Biblioteca Nacionai Costiimes— National Dress. The lower classes stQl retain their picturesque national dress. The upper orders have adopted the prosaic chimney-top hat, sombrero de copa, and other such-like abominations in the artist's eye. Ladies, alas ! are also fast divesting themselves of the graceful veil, the lace mantilla, which become their especial cast of beauty ; and the provincials alone have been presented from the invasion of bonnets and mantelets. Each province has a peculiar dress, the populations of the south and south-east approaching more to the original tj'pe, the Moorish dress — those of the eastern coast wearing the head-gear of their Phrygian fathers, etc. The mantilla is worn especially in the morning to go to mass and shopping d tiaidas. The white fine blond or lace one is now seldom used, and only at the bull-fight and Dia de Corpus; the one more usually put on is made of black lace, or of raso, satin, or silk — the latest fashion has introduced the antiquated manto, which is a mantilla with a silken casco, and a lace or blond veil that just covers the face ; cocas, or the coiffure k rimperatrice is adopted, to which tiny side-curls are added, called picardias, caracoles de amor, etc., with a stripe or two of black velvet, to which a fringe {Jeco) of passementerie, wth jet beads, is sometimes added. The best places to puichase one are at Madrid, Margarit and Fabrica de Almagro, and at SevUle and Barcelona. The prices vary from 500r. to 3000 and 4000r. ; but a good one maybe had for 1200r. Large pins on the sides fasten it to the hair. We may be permitted to adWse our fair readers not to adopt it, unless they wish to be stared at, for, how- ixcx gracefully they ■\\ill put it on and wear it, the aquel, ce je ne sais nioi, is sure to be wantbig and cause more attention than admiration. xcii GENERAL INFORMATION. it is almost exclusively the headgear worn in churches. Travellers who possess sufficient reliable knowledge of the article, together with the taculty of bargaining, should search diligently in the larger towns for second-hand laces. In the male costume, the capa (cloak) is still very much used ; but without a cape or escluvina ; the quietest coloura are worn by gentlemt'ii — invisible green, brown, black, with a black or green velvet lining, forro and vueltas. The usual price is 20 to 30 dollars. We likewise advise our male readers to abstain appearing in it. It is a whole science to know how to embozarze in the folds, there being at least seventeen difierent ways. Tliere is some difficulty in fnidiug prhits, coloured or otherwise, of Spanish costumes. An album des costumes espagnols (one separately for army uni- forms) may be purchased in Paris and Bayoune, and is reliable. Fans are worn as much as ever, and are used not only for protection from the heat, but as a formidable instrument of coquetry. Tlie Louis XIV. and Louis XV. fans, gems of miniature and workmanship, are very rarely met with in Spain, most of the best having been sold to foreign amateurs, and the rest being heudooms. The more common fan {abanico), with Spanisli subjects, roughly painted, but quaint and full of couleur locale, may be purchased at Madrid, C and crackers, often augmenting the expression of the former. The first play- bill was put uj) at Granada in 1600. The performances took place by daylight, and consisted of a ha, or prologue, followed by the first Jornado, or act of the princijjal comedy or drama ; entremeses came after, amusing, light ' levers de rideau ; ' the second act of the comedy ensued, and was followed by another entremes, music, and dancing ; and the finale Avas usually a saynete or farce, in which Spanish actors always excelled Last of all, as even is now often the case, a balle nacional terminated the fiesta, and was &fin de funcion. Besides the splendid Buen Retiro play- houses and floating theatres, the most celebrated have existed till very lately, such as the Corrales de la Cruz and Del Principe, which were erected at the request of Isabel Farnese, in 1743, 1745. The actors of early times were admirable interpreters of the genius of Lope and Cal- deron, and the names of Figueroa, Pinedo, Prado, are associated with their greatest success ; Barbara Coronel, Maria de Cordova, Baltasara, and, more latterly, Maiquez, Queral, la Rita Luiia, la Llorente, Rodri- guez, and the gracioso Guzman. Books of Reference. — The best critiques on the Spanish theatre have issued from Germany. Garcia's, Pellicer's, Martinez de la Rosa's, Moratin's {L.) origins of the Spanish theatre may be looked to for general information. See also 'Tesoro del Teatro Espafiol,' 5 vols. (Baudry's Cull.), and ' Autores Dramaticos Contemporaneos,' by D. Pedro de Novo y Colson, 2 vols. fol. ; Madrid, 1887. BuU-fights. This is the national fiesta of S2)ain, at which the lower classes are seen in all their character, as the English are at the Derl)y. We shall leave aside all reflections on the cruelty, bad example, bloodshed, of this spectacle, and allow our readers to judge for themselves. We shall only remark that bull-fights are still the fashion, that they have lo.st few of their former characteristics, and that tourists should not fail to see one at least. Tlie best bull-fights — corridas de toros — take place at Seville, the great centre of Tauromachia, and at Madrid. The ' season ' begins the first Sunday after Lent, a ' funcion ' taking place on every Sunday — * si el tiempo lo j)ermite.' There is a pause during the height of summer, and a second season begins again from the end of August to the early part of October. Each corrida costs upwards of £400 at ^ladrid and Seville, and not much less in the minor cities. The bull-fighters are diA-ided into four classes — esjjadas (swords, rapiers), those who kill the bulls with a sword ; they are the ' maestros ' of the art, men of great daruig, a quick eye, finn wi'ist, and presence of mind ; they rise from XCVlll GENERAL INFORMATION. the lower class, without passing by that of picadores, and follow the especial rules laid down by some great master, or found a new school themselves. * Aficionados ' (amateurs), alone can see the difl'erences be- tween the suertes. The most celebrated maestros have been Monies, Romero, Cdndido, Pepe Illo, El Chiclanero. The present ones are paid from 1250 to 1500 pes. for each corrida, and there are always two at each funcion, besides a ' sobresaliente,' in case of accidents. The second class, the Banderilleros, from banderilla, a small flag, or barbed dart, are paid 250 to 400 pes. each corrida. They require swiftness of foot and great dexterity. The third class are the Picadores, from pica, a lance. They receive 500 pes. They ride jaded Rosinante-hacks, in lieu of the noble steeds of yore, and scarcely defend them against the ' embestida ' of the bull. They are rather looked down upon, as a set of drunkards and * holgazanes.' The ' Chulos ' and ' Capas ' form the fourth class. They are picked men, as their business requires great activity — ' ojo y condi- cion.' They are paid from $15 to $20 (300r. to 400r.) The spectacle is a drama in thi'ee acts. First, after a shrill trumpet has announced the beginning, the Toril door is opened, and the UTetched beast rushes into the arena, decorated Mith the bright-ribboned mona. The picadores advance, each in turn, and attack, or rather receive the bull's attack. After a few varas have been split, and several tumbles duly taken place, the banderillos, at the soimd of another trumpet, come in for their share, and dart their arrows about the bull's gory neck. Sometimes, when the bicho is phlegmatic, these darts are provided with crackers, which ex- plode on their being afiBxed, and madden the animal. A few minutes after, at the sound of a trumpet, the Espada is seen advancing towards the bull, after having pronounced a speech before the AxUoridad presid- ing over the plaza, in which he asks, p>ro formd, permission to kill the foe, and offers to perform the suerte in a way that shall do honour to ' El pueblo de Madrid, or el Seuorio.' On his left hand he holds the nudeta, a small staff with a deep red flag that serves as a lure, and in his right a good Toledan blade. This is the stirring scene — the duel, the denouement. After the bidl's death, the cachetero sits on the prostrate foe, and removes all doubts by darting a small sharp-pointed dagger, el cachete into the animal's spine. A team of mules, gaily attired, drag away the foredoomed vencido (v9d victis !) to the mulador or dung-heap, where the flesh is sold. From an economical point of view, biill-fighta may by some be regarded as detrimental ; but, after all, the greater the consumption the greater the benefit to the producers. Something like 2400 bulls are killed annually, and 3500 horses. The money value of these animals will amount perhaps to 1,800,000 pesetas. About 450 corridas take place annually, and the tickets sold amount to about 3,000,000 pesetas. The dillerent ways of killing a bull, and of placing banderillas, are called suertes. A whole especial vocabulary is in constant use, and may be soon acquired. The best works are : — SPORT. XCIX * Tauromaquia Completa,' by Franco Montes ; Madrid, 1836. * Carta liistorica sobre el Origen y Pt'ogrosos de las Fiestas de Toros, by N. F. de Moratin ; Madrid, 1777". 'Tauromaquia, 6 Arte de Torear ; Madrid, 1804, per un aficionado. Excellent. El Tor^, El Enano, and La Lidia are three well-known juurnals devoted to the national sport, published in Madrid. Alcocer's ' Tratado del Fuego, etc., Salamanca, Portonariis,' ii. 1558, e.xanunes them, aluiig with tournaments, etc., in a religious light. Lotteries. The lottery was introduced into Spain by Charles III., and became a great source of revenue. There were till lately two lotteries — La An- tigua, on the French system, and La Modema ; the former was suppressed in 1861 from fear of a ' combinacion' between players and the bureau clerks, by which, had the large prize come out, the treasury would have been exhausted ; and, as it was, £20,000 had been already lost by Go- vernment in a preceding sorteo of La Moderna. There are two — occasionally three — sorteos a month. The ticket costs from pes. 50 to pes. 100. On great holidays, such as Christmas Day, the ticket Costs 250 pes., and the large prize is then of 200,000 duros, about £40,000, besides several minor prizes, the number of tickets being then from 25,000 to 30,000. The maximum premio heretofore has been of 1,020,000 francs. It has been calculated that of late years 1100 persons who had got prizes have become landed proprietors. Be this as it may, it is legal gambling — fevers the peasant and workman's head with dreams, and empties his larder of realities. It is immoral, and will some day be suppressed. The net produce to the State is about £200,000. The winning tickets that have never been claimed amount to a large sum. All but the State lotteries were abolished in 1882. Sport. Spain is eminently a country of the rod and the gun. Spaniards have been always great sportsmen (cazadorcs), first-rate shots owing to the clearness of the landscape that allows all distant objects to be so much relieved, and the constant guerilla warfare, that second nature of the Iberian, who, come what may, rule who will, is always ' de la oposicion.' From the careless way in which game is preserved, and its wild- ness, the sportsman has to exert himself in search of it, and not wait till it meets him, as in the fashionable slaughter-covers of England and France. 9 e GENERAL INFORMATION. The rabbit (conejo) is abundant. Indeed, some trace the origin of the name of S]iain, Hispania, to tlie Hebrew sephan, a rabbit Hares (liebres), red and white legged partridges (perdices), multiply with asto- nishing prolificatiou ; the codorniz (quail), ahndras (larks — taken with the espejudo, or mirror), are most plentiful. There is caza mayor, such as •wild boars {javalies), deer (venados) ; and caza menor, such as the minor tribes of the partridge, the rabbit, and hare. The shooting-season begins in September. There is excellent caza de paso, birds of passage, in Sep- tember, October, and November, of codornices, and gallinctas (sand-piper), and chochas (woodcocks), about Tarifa, Gibraltar, the baldios of Andalucia, whose thick brushwood affords good cover, and the newly-ploughed canipos of Castile. In November, A\dnter shooting begins, and, besides gallinetas, bustards, snipe {agacluidiza) (whence, * hacer la agachadiza,' to stoop do-mi and conceal one's-self), ansares (wild geese), wild duck {p)atcs), of all sorts abound in shoals in the marshes {marismas) and lagoons (lajunai) of Albufera, near Valencia, of Alicante ; and, near Gibraltar, of Taivilla, Retin, Haudar, Casavieja, etc.; where 8000 to 10,000 head can be brought down by four or five guns in one month, say December. There is most excellent wild-boar hunting, on foot ■\\ith ojeadares (or battue), and Sahuesos dogs, in SieiTa Morena, Sierra de Yaldecabras, and that of Cuenca. In the Monies de Toledo, the hospitable Nimrod, lord of a great portion of its best districts, the Marques de Malpica, has batfeues that often result in the death of several head of wild-boar. In Asturias, another nobleman, the Marques de Camposagrado, has cajsital sjjort with bears, wolves, etc. Javatos, deer, and stags abound in the Sierra Jlorena. In Sierra Bermeja, besides these, there are multitudes of corzos (roe-deer), cahras montesas, wild goat (' La cabra siempre tira al monte), like the chamois (ibex). The Conde de Luque possesses whole districts where they are found, which are situated between Estepona and MarbeUa. On the Spanish side of the Pyrenees, another sort of wild goat, the rupricabra, also called cabra montesa (the French bouquetin, buck), and the izard and bears in the higher mountains afford excellent sport, now 80 rare in the French Pyrenees. There is likewise some fu'st-rate fishing, and salmon abounds in tlie N. and N.W. coasts of Spain. Trout is equally plentiful in the rapid crystalline rivers in the Pyrenees, Gallicia, aTid Asturias, Near Madrid the angler will do well to visit the country about Avila, Plasencia, and Cuenca, which also afford excellent localities. The Spanisli Mediterranean coast is well pro\dded with fish, such as the delicious boquerones of Malaga, miyoles, and planosrayas. The Guadalquivir contains several good species. There are excellent oysters at el Padron (Gallicia), For all information on sjjort in Spain the reader should consult IFild Spain, by A. Chapman and W.T.Buck (London : Giirney and Jackson,! 893). CIOARS AND TOBACCO. ci Cigars and Tobacco. A Spanish satirist has said that real progress wUl not begiu iu Spain iintn a decree comes out prohibiting the use of cloaks, knives, and cigarettes. ' Vamos a echar un puro ' is worse than twenty tragos, for the wine ends Ly being drained, but the puro never ends. A puro, nay, a humble pita, or paper cigar, goes a great length here. It serves as a letter of introduction, a shaking of the hands — ' un cigarre fait des amis et rapproche des ennemis.' A Spaniard smokes always and everywhere j when he is shaving, at meals, in the Paseo, the couloirs of the Opera- house, at the bull-fight, etc. It often is a substitute for meat and the ' copa ' of the poor man, and is always the wealthier man's dessert. Towards the middle of the 16th century Spain and Portugal received the first samples of tobacco from America. The Spaniards called it tabaco, from the island of Tabago, one of the Antilles, near the coast of Caracas. Monsieur de Nicot, French ambassador at Lisbon (1560), sent some leaves of it to Catherine of Medici, who took a liking to it, using it as snuff, and the fasliion began for ladies to take snufi", thanks to which we are now in possession of whole collections of exquisite miniatures and chiselling with which snuff-boxes were ornamented. A reaction, how- ever, afterwards ensued ; and although Moliere said, ' quoi que puisse dire Aristote et toute la phUosophie, U n'y a rien d'egal au tabac,' French doctoi-s of his day ^\xo\Q against it, especially Fagon. Pope Urban VUl. (1624) excommunicated those who took snuff in churches. Sultan Amurat IV. had smokers condemned to death, and snuff-takers had their noses, as being the corjys de delit, cut off. In 1661, the Senate of Berne published a Decalogue, in Avhich smoking was announced as j)rohibited by God. In 1603, James I. of England wrote his pamphlet against smoking, calling it a habit, ' disgusting to the sight, repulsive to the smell, dangerous to the brain, imwholesome for the chest,' etc., and his proclamations against it were couched in very severe terms. Dr. Almiron Zayas wrote, in 1623, a book (see below) on the abuses and bad consequences of smoking and taking snuff, and Dr. Alias another. But the use continued and has become very general Children of five and six years old are seen smoking in Spain. There are men who smoke ten to fourteen puros a-day. EpUeptic fite, consump- tion, dyspepsia, and nervous affections, are the more usual effects attending excesses. Dr. Ayo (1645) mentions it as an excellent medicine, a liqueur being extracted from it called ' miszela.' Chilblains are cured, he says, by rubbing them with dry tobacco-leaves, and then washed with warm Ijrine. Tobacco is a monopoly of the State, there being about half a dozen huge factories- -in some of the principal towns, Sevilla, Valencia, Sant- ander, etc. The cultivation of the plant is forbidden in Spain — where CU GENERAL INFORMATION. it would succeed admirably — for the sake of benefiting the Habanas I The consumption of tobacco, in its various forms, amounts to some twenty millions of pounds per annum. Travellers will do well to remember the subjoined observations. Fairly good and very low-priced cigars may be got occasionally from ship captains, concierges, etc. etc., but it is at the expense of throwing away a goodly proportion if one's palate is at all fastidious. Good Habana cigars are an article seldom met with in the coimtry that rules the island of Cuba. They are sometimes to be found at restaurants or clubs. The surest way is to write for them to Cuba, oi purchase them at the Cadiz Custom-House. iV.i/. — Boxes sent from Cuba to parties are often changed at the Custom-House. The best cigars in the world are sent to London, New York, and St. Petersburg. Impo- sition, not always to be detected by connoisseurs, takes place in this trade. Thus the tripa, or inside, is often of inferior quality, whUst the capa, or external leaf, is of the very best sort. Again, such poor materials as HolandUla, made at Vitoria, burn snow-white ashes, which is eflfected by means of potash and soda. A false aroma can also be communicated by means of steeping the leaves in opium (that is a general practice with most cigars), or 'ndth vanille. The requisites for a first-rate cigar are : that it should burn by itself when lighted without going out for some time — that the ashes be whitish-grey, without thick grains, and leaving but a faint ring round the burning ends — that the smoke should ascend freely — that the taste should be agreeable to the palate, soft, and not acid. The colour of the cigar generally indicates the degree of strength — ' Colorado claro, oscuro.' The strength of a cigar also denotes the flavour, and when proceeding from a good manufacturer the stronger are always the best. The names, like tliose of Bordeaux wines, distinguish the ve(/as that produce very dissimilar weeds. The Vuelta de Abajo is generally the best district. There are 9482 vegas, or tobacco-plantations. The principal types for sizes and shapes are : Imperiales, Prensados, Regalia, half -Regalia, Trabucos-damas ; the extremer being purones of 25 centi- metres long, the smallest of 5 centimetres. The best Fabricas at the Habana are : Partagas, Cabanas, La India, and La Espaiiola. The prices, in Spain, vary from 3 duros to 25 duros the hundred. Average really good cigars cannot be had vmder 8 dollars. Let them not be too dry, as the aroma then is gone ; nor too wet, or new, as they are more diflicult to smoke. Paper cigars (cigarillos) are made with picado (chopped) tobacco- leaves, from the Habana or United States, and called, according to its sort, superior, suave, or entrefuertes, and sold in cajetillas, already made. Those who prefer smoking them will purchase papel de Alcoy, and avoid spurious, very unwholesome prepared paper. There are also pajillas, or cigarettes, made with Guatemala Indian com, or the rice paper. Filipinos are an inferior produce and Spanish rape snuff is not worth the Paris Civette. ARMS. ciii Arms. Swords. — Spanish steel has beeu always celebrated, and the mines that produce now the finest ore were originally worked by the Romans and Goths. The best swords were made about the 14th, 15th, and 16 th centuries. The Zaragoza, Toledo, and Valencia swordmakers, espaderos, were the most celebrated, and used especial marks, such as el perrillo, a miniature dog, placed by the Toledan Moor, Julien del Rei, upon all his blades ; the moriUo, at Zaragoza, the loba (the she-wolf), etc. Armourers (arnwos) formed a guild, but worked separately, and concealed from each other the secrets for tempering, etc., which they employed to make those master- pieces so remarkal^le for the chiselling and damascene ornament introduced by the Moors. The principal swordmakers at Toledo were : Nicolas Orduno, Juan Martinez, Antonio Ruiz, Dionisio Corrientes. Those of Zaragoza were also held in great repute. A sword is called espoula {o'TiraQa) ; the blade is la hoja ; the sheath, la vaina ; the handle, puho and porno, sable, the modern curved cavalry sword. The introduction of fireanna dealt the first blow to sword-manufacture in Spain, and those now made at Toledo, although good weapons still, are no longer works of art. On the whole, the old blades, ' Toledo's trusty,' a ' soldier's di'eam,' which Othello * kept in his chamber,' were unequalled save in the East, but for form and design they were inferior to the ^Milanese and Florentines. All the celebrated swords of heroes had names, as well in France and Italy as in Spain : ' La Durandal ' and ' La Colada,' of the Cid, etc. The best examples of Spanish swords are collected in the Madrid Armeria. The Artillery Museo, the Armouries of the Dukes de Medinaceli, Alba, Feman- Nunez, Osuna, are aU very remarkable, as much for the intrinsic value as for the historical traditions attached to them. That formed by Cardinal Mendoza at Gaudalajara was one of the finest in Europe ; 4000 men and 4000 horses could be armed with its contents. Some war-horse arneses cost 5000 ducats. Daggers. — In the 16th and 1 7th centuries duels took place \vith the long rapier in one hand, and the long broquel, or dagger, with cazoleta hilt, in the other. The combat began with the former, and the thrusta were panied ^\•ith the broguel, which served especially io finish the fallen foe, and was called in consequence miserere, the French coup de grdce. The broquel was subsequently changed for the Italian poignard, punal, and became the favourite weapon of the lower orders, who were not allowed the use of rapiers. La navaja, or cuchillo, often as long as a common sword, settles at once all differences of ojiinion, blood being thought to wipe off any petty rancour. It is used very frequently, and has become an art in which the barateros are proficient. A baratero (from barato, cheap) lives by his knife. He frequents gambling circles, and receives some coins from the cowed- dowm players whom he has threatened to disturb if they should not grant his boon. This is called CIV CJENEUAL lNl''OU.^IATI0x\. ' cobrar ol barato,' to get change. In some cases, one of the cliallenged parties gets up and refuses to pay ; upon which the champion fights. Death often ensues, as the stomach is aimed at. Those curious to learn more particulars may consult ' Manual del Baratero,' with prints. The best specimens of knives can be had at Madrid and Seville ; they are principally manufactured at Albacete ; they have bright colours on the blade, with mottoes — a muelle or catcli ; the price varies from 6r. to 30r. Firearms. — Spanish fowling-pieces now-a-days are manufactured in very small quantities, at the manufactories of Trubia and Eybar, together with indifferent field-pieces. Yet the poorest peasant has a retaco of all sizes and for all objects ; from the blunderbuss, trabuco, to the escopeta de caza. They are all sportsmen and excellent shots. The firearms made in Spain in the reign of Philip IV. and V. were excellent, and among the finest then in the world ; and revoh'ers were more frequently made than may be generally believed. The Madrid Armeria, and Artillery Museo, contain a complete collection of examples of the arcabuceros de Madrid, imtolas de rueda. The best armourer of the present day in Spain is Sr. Zuloaga at Madrid (chief factory and atelier at Eibar, Guipiizcoa). The best works to consult on the above subjects are : — an extensive work recently published in England, on ' Arms and Ai-mours,' by Hewitt. ' Catalogo de la Real Armeria ;' IMadrid, latest issue ; very accurate, An important French work, with excellent engravings by Sensi and Jubinal ; the text not always reliable ; Paris, 1838. An Essay on ancient Spanish arms in Mohedano's ' Historia Literaria,' 3d vol., etc. The Arab work of Mohammed-Ben- All, El-Erani, etc. Details also may be found in Parro's ' Toledo en la Mano,' 2d vol. p. 595, etc. General Conde de Cleonard's work on the History of Spanish Arms, ' Historia de Armas en Espaiia,' is an interesting work nov/' difficult to find. Coins. This is not a virgin land for numismatics, as the science is old in Spain, and there have been always collectors. Many false coins, besides the current ones, are sold to the unexperienced traveller, especially on the sites of celebrated ruins. The collection at the Biblioteca Nacional, Madrid, exceeds 150,000 in number, and is one of the most important in Europe ; especially as illustrating some otherwise obscure facts of the history of Spain. It abounds in a most complete and admirably classified monetarioa of very early Spanish, Roman, Gothic, and IMoorish coins. There were upwards of a hirndred cities in Roman-Spain that had the privilege of a mint. The miuiicipii coins are not very often met with. The best places to make purchases — but caveat emptor I — are Granada, Seville, Valencia, and Mdrida. There are several fine private collection.s, but one of the finest that was ever made in Spain — that formed by the DUTIES TARIFF. CV Swedish Chargd d'Affaires, Le Chevalier Lorichs — was dispersed at liis death. The most interesting to collect are the Keltiherian coins, the coins of the Miinicipii and Colonicc imniunes. Roman and Moorish silver coins are easily obtained ; not so, gold ones. Coppers, often interesting, can be picked up for a few reals at tobacconists'. The best works on the subject are : — ' Medallas da Espana,' by Father Henrique Florez ; 3 vols. foHo. Madrid, 1757-73; with plates. One of the most important works ever published on the matter. 'Medallas de Proclamaciones of Juras,' by Heirera, 1884. Delgado, ' Moncdas Autonomas de Espaiia ' ; the works of Zobel y Zangroniz on Keltiberian coins, of Codera and Stanley Lane Poole on Arabic ; Heiss's great work, ' Description generale des Monnaies antiques de I'Espagne,' and ' Les premiers Ages de Metal dans le Sud-est de I'Espagne,' by Henri and Louis Siret. Finances and Funds. The Finances of Spain have always been the stumbling-block of her progress in the path of civilisation. When mistress of the world, she was poor, embarrassed, the slave of expediency. She has had great theoretical financiers, who make poems out of budgets ; and ' Tart de grouper les chiffres ' is admirably practised here ; but the public chest partakes sadly of the nature of Pandora's box, chiefly through dishonest local assessment and imperfect collection of the Revenue. Justice is, however, rarely done to the immense improvement that has been estab- lished in this as in every other department of State during the last twelve or fifteen years. The National Debt has been consolidated, and now reaches the enormous total of £283,045,771, together with a Govern- ment guarantee of a Cuban debt of £90,000,000, and a variable amount of floating indebtedness upon extraordinary expenditure. The annual charge for service of debt is about £14,000,000. Revenue and ex- penditure now as nearly as possible balance at, in round figures, £43,000,000. Duties — Tariff: The following ordinary tourist's articles pay duty upon entering Spain : — Brandy, etc., i peseta per litre. Books and other printed matter, 10 pesetas per 100 kilos. (If in Spanish 50 pesetas.) Boots and all articles 0/ attire if unused, according to the material, with 50 % added. Carriages, from 312 to 1000 pesetas. Cigars and Tobacco, prohibited. Guns, 5 pesetas per kilo. Ciirtiidges, 60 Horses, from 135 to 180 pesetas, according to kind and size. Maps, /•lans, etc., s reals per kilo ; pictures, I peseta each. Perfumery, 2 pesetas per kilo. Saddlery, etc., 3.75 per kilo. Scientific Instruments, about 3 pesetas each. cvi GENERAL INFORMATION. Ex'erything is admitted free into England except cigars, tobacco, liqueurs, sj^irits, plate, tea, and wine. Lace and silk stuffs, jewellery and goldsmith's work, porcelain and arms are charged rather heavily in the French custom houses if found. The " Aran eel de Aduanas " is a useful little companion in Spain. In England the " Returns of the Rates of Import Duties levied in European countries, etc.," price Is. 6d., should be consulted for all details. N.B. — The above duties are liable to somewhat arbitrary infliction and variation. As a matter of fact few articles save cigars and ladies' new attire are looked for with any strictness. Courtesy and friendliness will smooth away almost all custom-house difhculties. Money — Measvires and Weighta Monet.— The monetary unit is the peseta, a coin composed of ^^ths of silver and j^th of copper. Its nominal value is, as nearly as possible, a franc, or 9|d. in English ujoney ; but the rates of exchange vary con- stantly, and for many years past a minimum of 33 pesetas for the £ has been obtainable. Accounts are made out in pesetas and cdntimos as a rule (1 c. = lOOth part of a peseta), but the older method of reckoning in reals (4 reals to the peseta) and dollars (1 duro = 5 pesetas) is still often met with, especially in shops. Gold is rare, the usual media being Bank of Spain notes for 25, 50, 100, 500, and 1000 pesetas, dollars, or 5-peseta pieces, 2-peseta and ^-peseta pieces, and coppers of 10 c. and 5 c. — vulgarly called perro grande and perro chico, ox pcirita. No paper money save the notes of the Banco de Espana should be accepted under any circumstances, and careful attention should be directed to the various coins (of Peru, Chili, Mexico, the Philippine Islands, etc.) which are not current. It is in no way impolite — it is only usual — to examine, and even ring, the money given in exchange, with a view to ascertaining if it be good or bad, and a little common sense ^nd insistence renders loss by bad money unnecessary'. MEASURES. evil Measures. The French metrical decimal system lias been introduced by decree of July 13, 1849, and is the only official one ; but its use has not as yet become quite general, and the vara, legua, cuartillo, etc., are still pre- ferred to the metro, kilometro, litro, etc. Old Spanish measures still in use. — The vara is the base ; it consists of 3 pies (feet), each of 12 pulgados (inches), each of 12 lineas, and is equal to 836 millimetres, or about 2782 English feet. English Spanish lOO yards make . . 109 varas and 30 pulgadas 12 feet ,, . 13 pies 12 inches ,, . . 13 pulgadas Comparative Measure of the French MJitre and English Yard. English •03937 inches •3937 .. 3-937 39 "3 7 1 II ^"d I vara 7 pulgadas, 74 cents, of a linea. 1-9884 poles 4'97i furlongs 6'2i4 miles A metre is therefore about 3^ inches longer than an English yard, and a myri.-imetre about 6^ miles. French I millimetre is equal to I centimetre ,, I decimetre ,, I metre ,, I decametre (10 m.) I kilometre „ I myriametre Heduction of Varas INTO Mi;TRES AND YaRD.S. Varas. Metres. Yards. Varas. Metres. Yards. I 0,835 e^^ct -91 9 • 7,515 about 8 2 1,670 about 2 10 8,350 „ 83 3 A50S .1 3 20 16,700 ,, 17 1 4 3i340 „ 3 50 41,750 ,, 42 S 4,175 .1 4| 100 83,500 ,, 84 6 SiOio „ si 500 417,500 ,, 420 7 51845 II 6 1000 835,000 ,, 840 8 6,680 „ 7 I metre = i vara, 7 pulgadas, 74 cents, of a linea. I millimetre = 50 cents, of a linea, or half-linea. I centimetre. The following is a rule to reduce all ancient measures into modern — ■ tliat is, varas, leguas, etc., into metres, kilometres — viz. one Spanish league is 5 kil. 555 metres ; therefore, to a.scertain how many kilometres, multiply the 5 kil. 555 mfetres by the number of leagues you wish to reduce ; then separate the three last numbers on the right by a comma, and the remaining total forms the kilometres, whilst the three numbers to the right constitute the mttres. cviii MEASURES. Example: How many kilouiHres are there in 12 leagues? kii. 111. 5 555 multiplied by 12 leagues, produce II no 55 55 66 66o ; viz. 66 kii. 66o metres. To reduce metres to varas, tlie same rule stands good. Multiply 1 vara 7 pulg. 74 cents, of a linea by the number of metres desired. The varas differ considerably according to the provinces, and are still in use : — loo canas of Cataluna equal 185 Castilian varas. too varas of Valencia ,, 108 ditto (or 106) 100 „ Aragon „ 91 J ditto ICX5 „ Navarre „ 94§ ditto TOO ,, Balearic Isles 185 ditto 100 „ Portuguese,, 136 ditto 100 English Yards equal 109 varas, 30 pul. etc. The toesa „ 6 feet I estado, or bnza I codo I palmo I paso geomclrico I cordel 2 varas } vara g pnlgadas 5 pies 5 pasos gcomdt. The Spanish league {legua), of 20 to a degree, is of 20,000 geomet- rical feet {pasos), equal to the nautical league of 3 geographical miles = 5 kilometres and 555 mfetres, about 3-45 English m. The old Spanish league of 174 to the degree = nearly 4 English m., often familiarly called legiias largas by the guides and all caminantes. A statute English mile = 1760 yds. = 5280 ft. = 69 to a degaee. Superficial Measures. — The official one is the French hectare, equal to 10,000 square metres, 2-471 acres, or, roughly, 24 acres, or thereabouts. The fanega is the usual Spanish laud measui-e. It is thus com- posed : — t fanegu =12 celemines = 4 cuartillos 12 estadales = 16 vara."; cuaJradas (q esLidales make r are and 0.062). Reduction of Superficial Faneoas to HECTAREa = 0,0069,873,716 ares (French) Fanegas. Hectares. Fanegas. Hectares. 1 . . . . 2 . . . . 5 . . . . 0-6440 1-2879 3-2198 ID . . . 50 . . . 100 . . 6-4396 32-1978 1 64-3956 1 1 Mi7.— The fanega of Castilla is different from that of the other provinces. The yugada (literally yoked, or yoking), the land that two bullocks can plough in a day. The journal of the South of France, the almud, etc., varies considerably. An .iranzada is as much as a pair of u.vcn can plough in a day. GENERAL INFORMATION. CIX The square centimetre is equal to "155 square inches, or rather less than ^Ih of a squ;u-e inch. I metre carre= 1-196 sq. yards, or 10,000 sq. centimetres. A Spanish sq. foot=7746 decimetres c^rres. The vara cuadrada = 6 pies cuadradas. r pie cuadrado =144 pulgadas cuadradas. I pulgada cuadrada = 144 lineas cuadradas. Measures of Capacity, weight. I quintal = 4 arrobas I ,, =25 libras = 16 onzas I „ =16 adarmes = 3 toraines = 12 granos. Arrob.-is. Kil. centig. mil. Arrobas. Kil. centig. mil. 1 arroba . . . 2 ,, ... 3 „ . • • 11,502,325 23,005 34.507 5 arrobas . . 10 ,, . . 50 .. 57,512,000 II5>023 575'"6 Approximately, i kilog. is somewhat more than 2 hbras ; 46 kilog., 100 h bras (pounds) ; the gramme, 15 "4340 English grains; i cut., about 11 o^ libras. I tonelada (tons) =20 quintales, or 920 kilog. 186 centig. 5 ,, = 4,601 kilogs. 10 ,, = 9,202 ,, 100 ,, =92,119 „ I kilog. is equal to 22055 'hs. English; lOO kilog. to 197 cwt. ; looo kilog. (or tonneau), to 197 cwt. Grain, or Dry Measurkb. I cahiz = 12 fancgas I ,, - 12 celcmines (or almudes) I ,, =4 cuartillos I ,, =4 ochavos I ,, 1 cuartillo . 1.156 litre I cahiz . 666 ,, I fanega . 55i >. 8 ochavillr.* ex ISIEASURES. The hectolitre = l fancga, 9 celemines, 2 cuartillos, 486 mil. of cuartillo I litre = S65 -thousandths of a cuartillo I fanega — about 14 busliel 5 fanegas = about i quarter I fanega 5 10 0.5550 hectols. 2.7751 M 5-5501 „ 50 fanegas 100 1000 2 7- 7505 hectoL 55-5010 „ 55S.OIOO ,, 46 pies cubicos =0-995 -096 mil. cub. 50 ,, =1 metre cube and 081-626 mil. cub. The cubic metre = 35 "3 17 cubic feet (English) The cubic centimetre = o 06 100 cubic inches I decalitre is about an English peck, and 2^^ hectolitres about I English quart Liquid Measures. 1 moyo (seldom used) = 10 ciiuUiras (arrobas of 34 libras each) I „ := 4 cuartillos (seldom used) I „ = 2 azumbrcs 4 cuartillos The arroba or cantara = 3-55 English gallons, or 16 litres, 13i* centilitres ; 1 litre approximately somewhat more than 1 cuartUo — viz. 1 cuartillo, 3 copas, 92 centesimos of a coim. The litre = -|ths of an English gallon, or 2-11 wine pints, or -97 of an English quart. The arrobe is marked @. Li oil measures : the arroba contains 25 libras, and each 4 panillas. 1 arrobe = 12 litres, 56fo centil. 1 litre = 1 liljra, 3 paniUas, 96 centesimos of a pauilla. 0/7.-— I arrobe 12-563 litres. 2 5 ID 100 25-126 62-815 125-630 1256-300 I bota de vino or pipe = about no to 115 gallons. It will bottle about sa dozen. 1 iiurco = 8 onzas (equal to the light marc, each of 8 dracmas) I „ =8 ochavas, or dracm.is I „ =2 adarmes 1 ,, = tomincs I „ =13 giarits. 2 tomincs — 1.198 grammes ; 1 gramme = 15.4340 English grains. I marco = 0.2300465 kilogrammes. 5 marcos = 1. 150233 , I kilatc = 4 granos ; 1 grano = 8 partes de grano — 51.4 milligramnieR. 5 kilates = 1.027 grammes. GENERAL INFORMATION. CXi For Medicine : — I libra medicinal = 12 oiizas I —8 dracmas, or ochavas I I. = 3 escnipulos I „ =24 granos. I libra medicinal o-345 kilog. S .. .... 1.725 „ 10 ,, .... 3.451 „ The gramme is = 15.44 English grains. 2J French grains are equal to 2 English grains. About 6 codos cubicos = i cubic metre. t tonelada de arqueo = 1.518 cubic metres. The lastre = a toneladas. : arqueo = flips) = 1 tonelada (ships) = 20 cwt. or i ton. GUIDE TO SPAIN GUIDE TO SPAIN alcalA (de henAres) (birthplace of CERVANTES). Province of Madiid. — Population, 16,000, diocese of Toledo. Routes. — 1st, From Madrid, by rail, 2Ii miles, 1^ hr. by mail train, about 1 hr. by dir. tr. ; fares, Istcl., P. 3.95; 2d cl., P. 3.05. It is on the direct R. line from Zaragoza to Madrid, its last largest town. The best plan is to visit it whilst at iladridand return the same day, to avoid discomfort at the posada (inn). Besides, there is hut little ht^re to intorost the genenl tourist. It is about six leagues from Madrid by the carretera (liigh road). Hotel. — Fonda Hidalgo. General Description.— Alcalastands in a plain, on the right bank of the He- iiares, which winds its way, hiding, as if for shame, its muddy thin sheet of water behind some stately elms. Seve- ral lofty s;indy cerros screen it from the N. winds, but it is nevertheless a very cold and wind-blown place in winter. The former town, or rather village, that was grouped around a castle built by the Moors, whence it received its actual name — Al-Kalat, the Castle — was al- ready known in the time of the Romans, who called it Complutum, and, accord- ing to Pliny, was a stipendiary city, subjected to the Jurid. Conventus of Csesar- Augusta (Zaragoza): several vases and coins that turn up now and then would seem to confirm this state- ment. Guadalajara, nevertheless, is, or rather was formerly, the rival of Al- cald, and disputed with it the right of being Pliny's Complutum. The citadel stood on the site now called Alcala la Vieja. About 1 1 1 8, the first archbishop of Toledo, Don Bernardo, built a rival fortress on the hill now called Mai Ve- cino, and the Moors, who possessed the city, had to suirender. Tliis prelate was the real conqueror of Alcala, which, in reward, was given to him with all the land around by King Alonso VI., and confirmed to his successor Raimun- do. This last, a truly-styled prince of the Church, thus became the absolute sovereign of this petty principality, which, however, never ceased to be, ecclesiastically, dependent on the see of Toledo. Among many other curious illustrations of those times wliich we read in the Fueros or charter that he gave to his people (they are found in a fine codex of the 13th century in the municipal archives of that city), is the following law : 'The man who will pull another by the beard is to be fined four raaravedis, and have his own cut away ; and if he should have none, let him have an inch deep of flesh cut into his chin.' Strange to say, great tolerance was shown by these archbishops tc waxds B ALCAL^i (DE IIENArES). the Jews, and a perfect equality between them and Christians established before the law, ' peche como pechan por ve- zino cristiano a cristiano ; ' but this sjiirit of moderation did not extend to tiie hated infidels, the Moors, who were treated always as the conquered people, and dealt with accordingly. The see of Complutum is one of the earliest in Spain, and its two celebrated martyrs, Santos Justo }' Pastor, lived in the time of Dacian. Those who are curious in martjTolog}' and modern miracles may consult on this subject, ' La Vida, Mai-- tirio, etc., de los Niuos SS. Justo y Pastor,' by A. Morales. Alcala, 1568, 4to (rare). It contains, besides, some very cuiious information relative to the antiquities of Alcala. Several kings have often resided at Alcala, where, moreover, the Cortes of the kingdom were held in former times and on various occasions ; but it has been chiefl}^ one of the battle-fields of the all-grasping, all-powerf;d theocracy of Spain, and celebrated for Arch. Teno- rio's efforts to obtain the regency dming Enrique III.'s minority ; for Cerezuela's partizan warfare on behalf of Don Al- varo de Luna, and Carrillo's intrigues in favour of La Beltraneja against the interests of Ferdinand and Isabella, in the arrangement of whose marriage he had played so principal a part. Their daughter, Catherine of Ai-agon, whom Shakspeare makes Henry VIII. define as 'the queen of earthly queens,' was born at Alcala, and so was the same Catholic king's grandson Ferdinand, subsequently Emperor of Germany, whose bu'th caused his mother J nana the loss of her reason ; but Alcala's greatest glory must for ever be to have given birth to Cervantes. The prospe- rity of Alcala, inaugurated by the Church, attained its acme under the wise protection of Card. Ximenes, more generally known by Spaniards as Cisne- ros, who studied here, and founded the celebrated university in 1510, endow- ing it generouslj', and filling its colleges with some of the most learned scholars of his age. When, in obedience to the spii'it of centralisation — a bad importa- tion from France — the university was removed to Madrid in 1836, Alcala fell, never to ri.se again, and is now but a shadow of its former self, a backward, solitary, abandoned city, without re taining any quaintness or originality or even environs, to compensate for all its other losses. Alcala was indeed pros- perous as the seat of learning, when its halls were tluonged by eleven thou- sand students, when Cervantes, study- ing here before he removed to Madiid and Salamanca, called it the 'famoso Compluto' ('Galatea,' vol. i. p. 121), and it counted nineteen colleges. Then, on the banlis of the river, 'las riberas del famoso Henares ' (Cervantes, ' Gala- tea,' vol. i. p. 66), the estiidiantina, or Burschenschaft, held merry assemblies. These were the Spanish estudiantes, who studied principally for the Church, and belonged to the middleand lower classes. Tlieii- want of funds and continual re- sort to expedient, mingled with gaiety and laziness, has given them a peculiar character, style, and reputation. Dur- ing vacations and carnival, they went, and still continue to go, in bands about the streets with their usual and now antiquated cloaks in rags, and torn two- corner hats, and singing with a guitar under the windows beg for pence and smiles from regas. Un cstudiante tunante Se puso a pintar la luna, V de hambre que tenia Pintd un plato de aceitunas. Anda, vida mia, abre la ventana, Mira que lucida llevo la sotana. Sights.— Colegio de San Ildefonso (Capilla del Cardinal Cisneros), Archi- episcoj)al Palace, La Colegiata (cathe ilral), Church of Santa Maria. ALCALA (DE HENArES). Colegio de San IMcfonso. — This colegio mayor was the seat of the for- mer university. It has a grand effect when seen from a distance, but on closer examination becomes clumsy and mass- ive. It was magnificently built and endowed by Ximenes. The few remain- ing halls, patios, and galleries are deso- late and lonely, but still bear vestiges of their former grandeur. Of the Para- ninfo, where degrees were conferred, and which was richly ornamented in the 16th century, there exists little now except the ceilings and the ornamented galleries which run round. The principal curiosity here is the chapel built by Gil de Ontanon in a semi-Moorish Gothic style with great magnificence and taste. The tomb of the founder should be noted. It is of marble, very elaborately and delicately chiselled, the work of Domenico of Florence. One of the most remarkable men the world has ever produced — remarkable alike for integrity, indomi- table perseverance, self-denial, devotion to his religion, and the extraordinary versatility of his talents — Ximenes, Francis de Cisneros, was throughout his long life pre-eminently one of the people. He was born of humble stock at Torrelaguna, in 1437, educated at Alcala and Rome, and became success- ively Vicar-General of the great Men- doza. Confessor of Isabella la Catdlica, Archbishop of Toledo, Cardinal, and Regent of Spain. The primacy he steadily refused until his acceptance of it was commanded by Pope Innocent VIIL, and to the end lie remained in all his private ways the simple and stern Franciscan monk. Some of his enterprises were naturally dictated and stained by tlie uncharitable and lawless spirit of the age, but, upon the whole, his de facto government of the country — especially during the troublous days succeeding the death of Isabella — was characterised by consummate wisdom and enlightenment. The usual fate of all great men finally overtook him, and he died, Nov. 6, 1517, in semi-disgrace, broken-hearted at the ingratitude of Charles V. His latter years were spent at Alcala, in the production, at a cost of 80,000 ducats, of his famous Com- plutensian Polyglot Bible (Complutuin, or Conflnvium, the Roman name of tlie city), printed here in 6 vols, folio in 1517, but not published until 1522. Over this his most cherished work Cisneros spared neither pains nor ex- pense in collecting authentic MSS. and bringing together the finest avail- able scholars of the day. It contains, besides the Hebrew text, the Septuagint Greek, the Chaldee (each with a literal Latin version) and the Vulgate ; and, while no longer held in great esteem for its own sake, is entitled to the greatest honour as the first work of its kind, and an almost superhuman labour of love and energy. The place has lost most of its literary treasures, but one may still find here some curious books and MSS. — among others the celebrated Alphonsine Tables, drawn up by order of Alfonso X. The work is wTitten in Spanish, and is one of the earliest of Western science^vritten in a modem language ; the introduction is the catalogue of the fixed stars, celebrated as ' Las Tablas Alfonsinas.' This work was a great step towards the diffusion of knowledge in the l-3th century. These books contain, besides methods, etc., and the tables, eloquent and poetical explanations. The follow- ing passage will show the style and quaint manner of the king. Speaking of Ursa ilajor, he says, ' Some astron- omers have taken it for a wain with its pole ; others s;iy it lias the form of an animal, which might as well bo a lion, a wolf, or a dog, as a male or a female bear. Here, then, are heavenlj' animals alcalA (de henXres). inhabiting that part of the sky where this coustellatiou is to be found, and recognised by ancient astronomers be- cause they saw four stars forming a square, and three in a right line. They must have been endowed with a better eyesight than ours, and the sky must liave been very clear. Since they say it is a she-bear, let it be one ; they were lucky in being able to distinguish it.' The ancient astronomers did not err in their estimate of the Alphonsine Tables. Regiomontanus says, ' Beware lest you trust too much to blind calculation and Alphonsine dreams. ' Tycho Brahe says that the 400,000 ducats expended upon the tables would have been better laid out in actual observation of the heavens. In point of truth, Alfonso had little or nothing to do with the tables that bear his name. (See also about these tables, Ticknor's ' History of Spanish Litera- ture,' vol. i. p. 35, note.) Archiepiscopal Palace. — Observe the second patio and staircase built by the primates Fonseca and Tavera, both of tliem of good plateresque ; also the Berruguete - like windows of the first patio and garden fagade. The archives now housed here — Archivo Historico — should be visited for the sake of their literary curiosities, and, especially, the series of documents relating to the Great Inquisition. La Colegiata, or Sa7i Juslo y Pastor. — This church is the oldest parish in Alcala, and was raised to a colegiata in 1479. The edifice was considerably enlarged in 1497 and 1509 under Pedro Gumiel. It was styled Magistral by Pope Leo X., when Cisneros caused all its prebendaries to be doctors in divinity. It is situated in a plazuela, and presents a plain facade with an indifferent stone tower. Its three naves are deficient in beauty and proportions ; the reja which leads into the presbytery was elabor- ately worked by Juan Frances. The principal retublo in the presbytery is barroque, and all around is modernised, churrigueresque, paint, and bad taste ; under it is a crypt, where the remains of the martyr boys, Justo y Pastor, are kept with great veneration. The paintings of Carducho, etc., are very indifferent. The Church of Santa Maria should be vi- sited by all readers of Don Quixote, as it was here that Miguel de Cervantes Saaverda was cliristened. We read in the registry of births of this church, in the book which begins in 1533 and ends 1550 : ' On Sunday, 9th Oct. of the year of our Lord 1547, was baptized Miguel, son of Rodrigo de Cervantes, and of his wife Dona Leoner. Juan Pardo was god- father, and he was baptized by the Bachiller Serrano, curate of Our Lady. The witnesses being the sacristan (sexton), Baltasar Vazquez, and I who baptized him. Signed, Bachiller Serrano.' In this same book are also the ' par- tidas de bautismo ' of his brother Andres, bap- tized 1542, and his sisters, Andrea, 1544, and Luisa, 1546. T/ie Mineral Baths of Loeches (sulphates of soda and magnesia) are situated 11 kil. from the Alcala station. Dominican convent, palace and tomb of the Duke of Olivares, Philip IV. 's minister. Diligence from Alcala during the bathing season, June 15th to Sept. isth. Books of Reference — i. ' Vida, Martirio, etc., de los gloriosos Ninos Martires SS. Justo y Pastor,' by Amb. de Morales ; Alcald, Angulo, 1568 — scarce, and containing curious informa- tion on the antiquities of the town. 2. ' Descripcion de la Universidad de Alcali, by Vergara (MS.) 3. ' Seminario de Nobles, Taller de Vener- ablcs,' etc. ; ' El Colegio Mayor de San Pedro y San Pablo,' with a life of Card. Cisneros, by Alcolea (Madrid.) Martin, 1777) ; another ' Life ' by Albar Gomez, and an incomplete one by Verg:u-a. For the history of Cardin.-il Ximenes, ' Vida de Ximenes,' etc., by Eugenic Robles, 410, Toledo, 1604 ; Prescott's ' Ferdinand and Isa- bella ' or Hefele's ' Der Cardinal Ximenes und die Kirchlichen Zustiinde Spauiens,' etc., Tu- bingen, 1S51. MADRn)T^)T()mK).AIR\tTlT:..\U(.\>llL\irH(LVrAR'LV(,£yA»» i^ -tf \ . ^ Faatrana J Madridej Toiyevit^a JJ"'" ME BIT E RE AN E AX SEA £n*finK Mile* s 30 Maximum temperature, August 9 . 37 9 Quantity fa Hen i6< j-sfc Minimum temperature, January 21 I .1 ALICANTE. n "The grand olijcclioii to Nicn is its dryness and the exciting and iriitating nature of its atmospliere.'— (' On the Climate of Nice,' by W. Farr, M. D., p. 10.) But if, in some diseases, tliese are found to aggravate the mahidy, in otliers, of an opposite tendency, theyai-e productive of much good. The death- rate is about 1 in 32, varying consider- ably with the seasons. Elclie (12 m. from Alicante, see p. 10) has not been as yet studied as a medical station. It might, nevertheless, be considered superior to Alicante in many respects. The sky is heavenly, the air pure and genial, and the forests of palms, orange-trees, pomegranates, and olives, are sufficient to indicate the temperature in wiixter. It is very dry, but not as much, perhaps, as Alicante, owing to constant and abundant irriga- tion, the Vinalapo river, and the neigh- bourhood of the Pantanoor lake, situated 3 miles N. There is also a cool shade under the palms ; but it must not be forgotten tliat it is exposed to the influ- ence of the E. and N. winds, which prevail especially during the winter, although at rare intervals. In the summer, intermittent fevers are not un- frequent (a consequence of emanations from the irrigated huerta) which more particularly seize the labourers, who stand all day in the water under a scorching sun. The houses are not com- fortable, certainly, but arm-chairs, car- pets, and doors and windows closing liermetically, are a useless luxur}', nay, a nuisance, in these Oriental climates. Living is very cheap, fruit and vege- tables are sold for a song, and its prox- imity to Alicante renders supplies easily obtainable. There is, Ave do not deny, a total lack of society, amusements, and comforts, the absence of which is often felt by invalids ; but the real advantages of climate, combined with very great cheapness, are objects not to be despised, and must compensate for others. Doc tors may safoiy send here all invaliUt suffering from catarrh, rheumatism, and consumption, accompanied by abundant expectoration, in the first stages of the malady, and in all cases where the irri- tability of the patient (especially in lym- jihatic temperaments) cannot endure the more exciting air of the sea-side medical stations. General Description. — Alicante is situated on the sea-side, extending along and around the spacious open bay, and at the foot of the lofty, bleak, chalky hill, crowned by an old and now much ruined castle. Its houses, low, gay, whitewashed, look picturesque from the steamer as one enters the port, and the backgi'ound is formed by a striking range of moimtains. The environs are bare, and the soil salinous. A few palms and fig-trees add to the Oriental appearance of the place. It is, on the whole, a very backward, uninteresting city, with little or no society. There is a pretty good theatre, a jilaza de toros, a fine market- place, opposite to Fonda del Vapor, and the town-hall has some sort of an a-p- pearance, but without any determined style or definable efiect. The tobacco- manufactory employs some 4000 women, many of whom are perfect types of the semi-Moorish Alicantina beauty. The Paseo de los Martires, planted with jialni trees and facing the port, is the fashion- able promenade. Others are the Paseo de Mendez Nunez, del Doctor Gadea, de Gamiz — the latter frequented in summer, owing to its situation in front of the sea-bathing establishment ; while outside the town is the Paseo del Du(iue de Victoria (formerly Campoamor, or Ca])uchinos). Public gardens are those of Isabel II., Plaza Ramiro, and Plaza de San Francisco. In what is styled the 'Huerta do Alicante,' a district irrigated from the Pantano do Tibi (Moorish reservoir), there are many ALICANTE 9 country houses ami some pretty gardens, where families go to pass a few weeks during tlie summer, tlie distances being more or less an liour's drive from the town. The Port is spacious, situated between Cabo de la Huerta on the N. E. and Cabo de Sta, Pola on the S., distant from eacli other S.W. and KE. about 10 ni. It is secure, and though large ships moor N. and S., distant from ^ m. to 1 m. from shore (in from four to eight fathoms water), they are never driven from their moorings, however much they are cxjiosed to all winds from E.N.E. to S. by W., because the holding-ground is first-rate. The trade is not very active, wine-growers especially having lately been unable to realise their crops at remnuerative prices, and the rates of exchange telling seriously against the imi)ort trade. The chief exports are wine, ]i(juoriee root, aniseed, almonds, esparto goods and lead. The exporta- tion of barilla formerly amounted to 100,000 cwt., but has now entirely ceased from its having been superseded by artificial soda. Tlie imports are, sugar, coffee, cotton and linen stuffs, coals, railway material, dried cod-iish, sugar, jute, stones, timber, and petro- leum (of which there are two large re- fineries). Tlie annual value of these is something like £300,000, the port being visited by an annual nett British ton- nage of 20,000 tons. Both exports and imports have seriously fallen oif during the last few years. Alicante was for- merly a great smuggling centre, and the contrabandistas — the free-traders of all times and all climes — were very much looked up to and sympathised with. Education is at a low ebb even for Spain, but the tide is now turning, and the Church here, as elsewhere, is awakened to a more active life and educational work. The Valencian dialect, the old langue d'oc, is still chieliy spoken by the lower and many of the middle classes. Agriculture is very backward, and although tlie farmer hascertainlj'tocontend againstdrought, which often lasts for seven and nine months in the year, his ignorance and in- dolence prevent his alleviating tliis con- dition by making move pa7ita7ios, canals, wells, and by planting trees — those hated enemies of the Spanish peasant. Sights. — Church of San Nicolas de Bari — Cluirches of Santa Maria, Sta. Clara, Sta. Faz— The Castle— Elche. Church of San Nicolas de Bari, the titular saint, 'el patron,' of Alicante, was built in 1616, in the Herrera style (Grreco-Roman). It is of very good jiro- portions, well conceived and executed, but not completed, and ornamented with very bad taste. The church of Sta. Maria is very indifferent ; tiiat of Sta. Clara was originally founded to receive the sacred sudario, ' one of the three napkins or kerchiefs with which the Veronica wiped our Saviour's face on his way to the Calvary.' It was brought from Rome in the lolh cen- tury, and its authenticity is undoubted by the Alicantinos, who hold it in great veneration. The sacred ' Reliquia de la serenisima Faz ' is now in the Church of Santa Faz, about half an hour's drive from the town. The pictures of the Marquis del Augolfa, formerly well worthy of a visit, are now dispersed, owing to the death of the Marquis. Their value was, however, greatly overrated. They consisted of about 1000 pictures of Spanish and Dutch schools. The Italian paintings were nearly all of them copies ; but there were some good Snyders, and a good copy of Eubens's ' Deposition from the Cross,' at Antwerp. The best ))aint- ings of the Spanish school were the 'Good Sheplierd,' by Orrente, a soi- disant Murillo, and a fine Virgin 10 ALICANTE, and Sleeping Saviour by Alonso Cano. Castle. — To see it, apply with card to the Gobeniador. The Castillo de Santa Barbara commands the town and bay ; its situation is good, but the con- tinued dilapidations to which it has been subject have rendered it almost useless for defence, and of no interest to the military tourist ; it is composed of four cm2^lazamientos (plateaux), the highest of which overlooks the city, and is strong. It is about 400 ft. high. The castle of San Fernando crowns on the N. side the cerro (height) of Tosal, and defends that position which com- mands the fortress ; the Isla Plana, on the S. of the city, and distant 3| leagues from Cabo de Santa Pola, is 1180 varas long by 500 wide, and de- fended by the Torre de San Jose. Antiquities. — There are no antiqui- ties collected at Alicante that we know of, although several persons possess coins, medals, etc. Alicante, never re- markable in history, is the ancients' Illice, erroneously ascribed to Elche, and has sometimes also been called Alona. The Lucentum which some au- thors mention as the former name of Alicante, was not this city, but one situated at Tusal de Manises, close to Alicante, where many ruins, coins, etc., have been found. Balneario de Busot. — This pictur- esque watering-place (warm sulphur springs) lies 9 miles from the city, upon the Cabezu de Oro, and at a height of some 1600 feet above the sea. The situation is very fine, with a surround- ing of pine-clad hills, the Cabezo itself, the Garroferet, the Peiia Kocha, etc. There is a daily coach (correo) from Alicante ; and every convenience may be found in the well-appointed JSatab- lecimiento, the Hotel Miraniar (fine views over the sea), and the small separate villas on liire. Directory. Coimils.—0( England.— 3a.&]}QT W. Gumming, Esq., Vice-Consul. United States.— A. W. Leach, Esq., Consul; John Leach, Esq., Vice-Consul. Aus- tria- Himr/ary. — F. Raymund, Vice- Consul. Belgium. — E. Carey, Consul. Italy. — F. Raymund, Consul. Norway and Siceden. — H. Prytz, Vice-Consul. Russia. — A. Faes, Consul. Holland. — A. Salvetti, Consul. Germany. — J. Guardiola, Consul. Bankers. — Gumming Brothers (suc- cessors of Jasper White and Co.) ; agents for several English and Ameri- can banks. Succursal of the Bank of Spain. Diligence Offices. — For Alcoy, Villena, Crevillente, Elche, Torrevieja, etc., Calles Mendez Nunez and Gravina. ExcuF.sioN TO Elche. A visit to this town of most Oriental character, situated amid a forest of palms, should by no means be omitted ; indeed, it is worth a journey to Alicante. The distance is 4 leagues (12 miles) from the town, and 2 leagues (6 miles) from the sea. The drive is charming ; for thougli the country is flat and never green, there is a com- pensating novelty and jjicturesqueness about the ruddy soil, the clumps of stately palms and fig-trees that shade the doors and avenues to Tangerine- looking houses. The old diligence services are now superseded by the direct railway between Alicante and Murcia, whereby a long day may l>j spent at Elche — the second station out— at a cost of 5 pesetas, 1st class ; 3.50c., 2d class; and 2.50c., 3d. For those who prefer to drive, how- ever, there arc also small omnibuses or cariiages, that may he hired for a couveutional price ; time, from 2J to ALICANTE — EXCURSIONS. 11 3\ hours, according to state of the road, which is not good. Elche, some say, was originally the ancient lllice, but according to others, and with more likelihood, it was merely an Arab village, whose name in Arabic would mean tomadizo (whirlwind, and also turncoat, deserter), (see ' Tesoro de la Lengiia Castellana,' by Dr. Sebast. de Covarrubias, etc. It is sitiiated close to the rarine formed by the Vina- lapo, which runs through it, and which called into existence this charming oasis in the desert, as the Arabs used its waters with their usual ingenuity for the irrigation of the huertos and palms. The works to insure this irri- giition to the plains around Elche are a jxintnno (mai-sh), situated about 3 miles is. of the town, and placed across a gorge of the Vinalapo water ; the wall that shuts up this gorge is 68 ft. 3 in. high, 34 ft. thick at its base, and 26 ft at the summit, thus forming a teiTace of 2284 miles long, from one hill to another. The town is long and clean, the houses whitewa.shed, of one or two storeys ; the roofs flat, with few openings on the streets, and most with a patio or open court in the interior. The costume of the people, their fea- tures and attitudes, the brilliancy of the atmosphere, the dolce far nieiite, the lofty stately palms, which, like so many jets of verdure, spring up above the roofs between the edifices, are all Oriental. The only good inn is the Fonda de la Confianza, where decent beds and very cheap living are to be obtained, coupled with civility. The population is about 24,000. Sights. — There is little to see in the town itself The Church of Sta. Maria has a very fine portico ; the interior is well proportioned and not over-oma- mented. The tabernacle is made of precious mjirbles, with an effigy of the Virgin of the Assumption, which is held in gieat veneration. It is often dressed in beautiful rich mantos, has several fine jewels, and is even a landed proprietor, for the finest palms are .seen in her orchards, called ' Huertos de la Virgen,' over the entrance of which is her crow7i and monogram. The pro- duce goes to pay for the dresses and candles ; and the priests and sextons, who take care of the image, have mass said, and celebrate funciones on her special festivals, etc. Do i;ot omit ascending the belfry {companario); the height is not great, though the steps are much worn and slipperj*. The view is very pleasing. On the one side is seen, in the distance, the lagoon, or albufera of Elche, which is smaller than that of Valencia, but equally well stored with fish and game ; on the other are the Huertos ile la Virgen and palm grounds, the tawny baiTeu plains all round, and below the many hundred terraces, each a perfect picture. From this is also seen the Calandura, now a pri.son, once an alcazar, whose tower is crowned by two bronze figures larger than life, representing a man and a child, which, by hidden combinations with the clock, are made to strike the hours and the quarters. Palm Trees. — Now proceed to visit the gardens close by ; the date-tree (Phoenix dactyJifcra, Linn.) is called here palmera, and the fruit ddtil. To prosper, they require this .sandy soil, well watered, and the warm genial atmosphere ; they grow very well, too, near the sea, provided it be about the .same latitude, and are an importation probably from that portion of Barbary where they abound most, and which is therefore called Biledulgerid. In Hol- land's ' Plinie,' b. xiii c. 4, it is said ' Date-trees love a light and sandie ground, and specially (for the most part) if it stand much upon a veine of nitre besides.' The Anibs sow the 12 A 1 .1 < AN 1 H — K\C U HSION S. kernel about the end of March, but j they ami tlie Spaniards prefer multi- ' plj-ing tliem from the shoots taken | from the roots, or just under the leaves; | they are sheltered from tlie sim, and | watered often until they have taken j root. This mode has the great advan- | tage of obtaining female plants (which are the only ones that yield fruit), as a few males are sufficient to fecundate a whole forest When, about April and May, the male flowers are blooming, the labourers cut these off, and shake the dust (pollen or fatina) over the females, which are thus impregnated. Tills artificial fecundation, which is now being experimented upon in France, to extend it to com, etc., is not a new discovery, and Theophrastus mentions it in his ' History of Plants, ' while Pliny leaves little or no doubt about it. This would show that the ancients were cognisant of the existence of sexes in plants long before Linnsus and others. The best dates are the yellowish - coloured ones. They ripen about No- vember, when they hang in rich golden clusters all round the siunmit. It is curious to watch the dexterous hor- telanos (gardeners), when they gatlier the fruit, reaching the top of the branchless trunk by means of a rope, which they pass loosely round their waists and the trunk, resting on it all their body in a horizontal position, while their bare feet, pressing the tree, tighten the rope, and thus leave their hands free. The produce is abun- dant, averaging 4 to 8 arrobas yearly (though some exceed 15 and 20), which are sold from 8r. to 40r. each. The trunk is often used for light timber, and is very hard, firm, and almost incor- ruptible. There is scarcely a j>art of the tree that ha.s not some use, although the Arabs derive greater utility from them tlian the Si)aniards. The male leaves or palms on tlie summit are tied together from April to June, and blanched, as gardeners say; that is, by this continued compression, they lose, so to speak, the circulation of their sap and become whitish. They are then cut, and sold separately on Palm Sunday — some twisted intr shapes of cro-wns, with ribbons, etc.— and when blessed by the priest are hung up at tlie balconies and over the doors, and taken about on Palm Sun- day processions. Pilgrims, formerly, as is known, were holy travellers, who visited one parti- cular shrine and then returned home, but the palmer made it his sole pro- fession to visit several shrines, and lived on charity ; and as Jerusalem was one of them, they used, once there, to make a palm staff and go with it thence about the world. A new branch of the trade has lately sprung up in the shipping of these whitish or yellow ]ialms to London, for the decoration of Roman and Anglican churches. A certain proportion of the defective leaves, too, are used in the manufacture of inferior cigars and cigarette paper, in place of maize. There are several palm plantations worth visiting ; and the young trees, of 3 to 5 years old, can be bought from the nurseries at a cost of about -3 pes., and shipped at Alicante for a trifle. Cotton is grown in some small quan- tity, also vines and pomegranates. The trade in esparto grass, formerly a feature of this district, has seriously fallen away. Wine, lead, fruit, rai.sins, saffron and licorice root, are other important Alicante exports. 13 ALMADEN Province of Ciudad Real. Diocese of Tolalo—7'dQQ inhab. Routes, Conv. — 1. From Madrid, by the Madrid and Badajoz line ; two trains a day. Book throughout ; time, about 12 hours. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 31.20; 2d cl., Pes. 23.40; Sd cl.. Pes. 15.45. A slow and uncomfortable journey, passing by Algodor and Ciudad Real. 2. From Valencia, Alicante and Murcia, vid Alcazar, Manzanares and Ciudad Real ; two trains per day. A cross-country and slow journey, but may be taken en route for Lisbon. 3. From Cordoba, by rail through Almorchon, one train per day in about 9 hrs. ; or riding — roads not very good, and accommodation by the way bad. Route : Cordoz'a to A Imaden, riding, i8 leagues, 3 days. Leagues . 6 Cordova to Villarta . Villanueva de! Duque V'iso de los Pedroches Santa Eufemia Almaden The ride is over a wild country, in- teresting alike to botanist aud miner- I alogist. Sleep 1st night at YUlarta ; | 2d night sleep at Viso de los Pedroches. I The first day's ride is through the | sierras and pine-forests. At Viso there j is abundant mica-slate, followed by | granite. There is a bridle-road from Almaden to Seville, by Fuente de Can- tos, Aracena, and Rio Tinto ; distance about 50 leagues. Inn. —The Fonda de Leopoldo (in- different). Get, before you leave for Almaden, letters of introduction to the superintendents of the mines, and lodge in some private house. The village is perfectly uninteresting ; a good hos- pital and seveml schools, mining and others. Quicksilver Mines. — The quicksil- ver mines of Almaden are considereorts issued iu London. u ALMERI A. Capital of province of same name. Population 46,000. Routes, Conv. — 1. FromGiauinlabv diligence to Guadix : thence by rail, 100 kil., two trains daily in 4 or 5 hours; fares pes. 11.65, pes. 9.10, pes. 5.55. The rough diligence journey will soon, it is to be hoped, be super- seded by the new railway to the junction with the K.W. line. [This line, the Linares-Almeria railway, is completed (1898) save for the viaduct over the Salado ; so that direct com- munication may be had with Madrid by crossing the unbridged ravine (some 300 metres) at the station of Larva.] For those who prefer riding we subjoin another itinerar3\ Granada to Almeria, riding ; distance, 25A leagues, 3 days. or ■i long ones. Leagues To Fargue \ Huetor de ?antillan I Cruz del Puerto \\ Venta del MoliniUo I'i Diezma . 4 Venta del Rio . li Guadix 3i Sleep. Ventorillo del Barranquillo 3 Ocana 2 Alcubillas 4 Sleep. Gador 14 Benahadux 3 Almeria . I 25i 2. From Murcia. Rail open as far as Baza : from thence a diligence to Guadix, where change into Linares- Almeria railway. 3. From Cartagena and Malaga by steamer, twice a week, in about 12 hours. Also from Alicante, Cadiz, Gibraltar, etc., by uncertain steamers (see local advts.). As a rule, these coasting boats are to be avoided. Inns. — Grand Hotel dc I'm-tosa, Paseo del Principe ; Hotel de Londres, Plaza de la Glorieta, both fairly good. General Description. — Almeria, the Al-Mariyat of the Arabs, is situated on the sea-shore and in a valley formed by two hills crowned by a castle and an alcazaba ; it is surrounded by high walls of most picturesque appearance that extend from the sea to the hill ; then follow the undulating ground, and from the valley ascend to the other hill and back to the city. These walls, with theu' cubos or towers, are an excellent specimen of mediaeval and Moorish mili- tary architecture and engineering ; tlie forts still subsist, though the Al-Kazaba is in ruins, and the Torreon del Homenaje, that overlooks yawning precipices, has better escaped the unrelenting hatred of the rival Goth and of time, and was even repaired in the 15th century. Its tsvo Gothic facades are decorated with the escutcheons of the Catholic kings, and it contains several low and sombre halls and corridors with miradores. The province of Almeria is not very prosperous, and yet the soil is rich, and yields plentiful crops of maize and corn. At Adra the sugar-cane abounds ; at Albanchez and Rioja excellent oranges and lemons are produced, and many varieties of American fruits grow almost spontaneously in the plains around Al- meria itself. Several very rich mines are found in the different sierras which intersect it in every direction. In that of Gata, E. of Ahneria, jaspers, agates, basaltic banks. In Sierra Nevada, W. of the province, are the celebrated quar- ries of Macael marble. In Sierra Ca- breramay be found antimony, malachite, gypsum, magnetic iron, etc. The Sierra ALMERIA. 1?5 Almagrera, E. of province, teems with silver. The climate is proverbially mild, and winter is not known, except in the ridge of hills to N., where snow often falls, and the cold is strongly felt. The harbour is fine and safe, vessels of heavy tonnage being able to load alongside the mole, which is being rapidly extended. Tliere are several pro- jected lines of railwaj', but none are quite completed. The chief exports consist of grapes (about 800,000 barrels), esparto (20,000 tons), calamine (2000 tons), iron ore (155,000 tons), almonds, oranges and other fruits. There is little here to interest the ordinary tourist. The chief sight is The Cathedral. — This edihce, of about the end of the 1 5th century, par- takes of the character of the fortifica- tions ; four massive and once formidably built and armed towers are placed at its angles ; the apse has the shape of a polygon, and its walls are crowned with battlements. In 1517 the warlike chap- ter rebuilt the military works, if they may be so called, of the cathedral, spending 20,000 marvedis upon them ; and when, on September 22, 1522, an earthquake had battered the whole edi- fice, they lost no time, and spared neither money nor workmen, in repairing their walls. The principal facade is placed between two buttresses or pilasters, that bear on their basements alto-relievo angels of indifferent execution, with capitals composed of mascarons and jarros. Between them nins a gallery with arabesque open work ; the portal is etfective and of quadrangidar shape, Tnuch and ill ornamented : the second or upper stage is ornamented with an imperial escutcheon, the statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, and a Virgin in a niche. The interior belongs to the pei-iod of Gothic Decline, tlie capitals of the pillars being almost Corinthian in style. In a chapel situated in the apse is a rich marble tomb of a great bene- factor of this chuxch, called Fray D'ego de Villola. It is on the whole of meagre appearance. The stalls are the work of Juan de Orca, and the date 1558-60 ; they are elaborately sculptured, but without much skill or taste. This church has no definite style, but is rather a medley of several. The other churches, San Domingo and San Pedro, are uninteresting. The Barrio de los Huertos is the most populous. The promenade on the muelle or jetty is pleasant, and the view from it of the port and bay picturesque. Directory. Brit. Vice-Consul. — -W. JI. Lindsay, Esq. U. S. A. Consular Agent. — F. C. Bevan, Esq. Post Office. — Paseo del Principe. Telegraph Office. — Calle de los Reyes Catolicos. Caf4s. — Stdzo ; Universal, on the Paseo del Principe ; Jleudez Kunez, Calle de Alava. Casino, with foreign papers. Visitora admitted upon member's introduction. Theatres. — El Principal ; Novedades, Paseo del Principe ; Apolo, Calle del Obispo Orbera. For details of the mining industries of the province, see the ' Boletiu Oficial de Minas. ' Id ANDALUSIA. The kingdom of Andulasia, the espe- cially favoiu-ed land, La Tierra de Marid Santisima, is now divided into eight provinces, viz. — Pop. Sevilla . 515,011 Mala-a . 505,010 Grau-ida 485,346 Cadiz . 426,499 Total Cordoba Jaen . Almeria . Huelva . 3,268,171 Pop. 382,652 392,100 361,553 200,000 All these provinces are under the judi- cial jurisdiction of the Audiencias of Seville and Granada, and ecclesiastically under the suffragans of Seville and Granada. They constitute a capitania general, whose centre is Se^■iIle, and which is subdivided into as many comandancias generales as there are civil gobiernos or provinces. Climate. — This is varied. Granada and Ronda are, from their altitude and proximity to the snow-capped moun- tains, well suited for the summer months, whilst tlie genial temperature of Malaga, Seville, Cordova, etc., ruakes them the fittest residences for winter. On the whole, the climate much re- sembles that of the N. and portions of the W. coasts of Africa, from which South Andalusia was probably severed at Gibraltar by some great geological convulsion. Suffice it to state that the palm, the sugar-cane, orange, citron, are among the commonest plants ; that corn and barley are reaped when they are just about to flower elsewhere, and these examples, with many others, will couvince our readers, if they are not already aware of the fact, that in climate Andalusia has been most especially favoured by Providence. The cities are all of very great interest to artist, painter, ecclesiologist, and antiquarj', for all this country is still full of the most glorious monuments of taste, grandeur, and engineering skill which the Moors erected during their sway of seven centui'ies. Seville and its alcazar, cathedi'al, and gu-alda ; Granada and the AJhambra ; Cordova and its wonderful mosque, cannot fail to attract close attention and untiring admiration. As for the picturesque, Ronda and Alhama, Sierra Nevada, the Alpujarras, etc., wUl suffice. The people themselvesarenottheleast interesting feature in Andalusia ; they are the Irish, the Gascons, the Athenians of Spain ; -with them aU is gay, light, wit, love, dolcefarniente ; life is pleasure, the bull-fight, pelar la pava, putf the ci- garrito. Go therefore to study this type where it is found in all its unsophisticated raciness. Repair to the fans which are annually held at Mairena and Ronda, where you will see the majeza in all its glory, and scenes will present themselves worthy of antique vases and bassi-relievi — the song in the cortijo, the dance on the hera, and many others. They have, withal, their dark sides of character — exaggeration, superstition, insurmount- able laziness, and middling courage wlien massed together ; but their gene- rosity, verging on ostentation, and their gentlemanly manners, are remarkable. However low in station, the Andaluz may be ' canaille, ' but he cannot be vulgar ; for that is never to be found where there is a blue heaven, a bright glowing sun, no starving, and a guitar. The beauty of the women is proverbial. In a word — La terra molie e lieta, e dilettosa, Simili a se gli abitator produce. The excellent methods of in-igation and agriculture introduced by the Arabs have been neglected, and here are seen despoblados or wastes, some of 2 or 3 leagues in extent, where not a house. ANDALUSIA. 17 uot a Least or tree, save the lentisk and palmito, are to be seen. The principal rivers are the Guadalquiv-ir (the Bsetis Olivifera of Martial), which has for tri- butaries the Sanlucar, Biar, Huelva, and the Genii ; the Guadaira, which the Slimmer heat dries up every year ; the Gaudalete, which flows through the Sierra de Eonda into the Bay of Cadi^ in an almost parallel direction to the Guadalquivir, which rises in the Sierra Nevada, and whose course is of about 400 miles. The mountains are — the Sierra Nevada, Sierra Morena (the Montes Mariani of the ancients^, and their ramifications. The mineral wealth of these provinces is very great, and Tarshish was the Eldorado to which Solomon used to send his ships for gold and sUver. It was called also Turde- tania before the Carthaginians founded colonies on all its shores on the Medi- terranean. Tartessiis is indifferently applied to Cadiz or Gadir (Avienus), to several other cities, and even to the Bffitis of Strabo (p. 148). The Tarshish of Scripture was, according to Betham, Bochart, Florez, and others, applied to all the S.AV. region from the Guadal- quivir to the Straits. The Romans drove away the Carthaginians, and it became a senatorial province after the capture of Se^-ille by Julius Caesar (43 B.o.) Under the Eomans, the cities of Ecija, Seville, Cordova, Cadiz, Italica, etc. , rose to great importance. At the downfall of the Roman Empire, the Vandals, on their way to Africa, sacked the cities and burned the crops. Bsetica then took the name of Vandalusia, which was preserved by the Arabs when they, in their turn, invaded it ; though some authors derive the name ' Belad-al- Andalosh,' from the 'Land of the West.' It then became an empire called the Kali- fate of Cordova. At the downfall of the Ummeyah d)Tiast}', Andalusia was di- vided into the kingdoms of Granada, jaen, Seville, and Cordova, of which the first was the la.st to fall into the hands of the Catholic kings, who added these kinrfdoms to that of Castile. Travelling is easy now. We suggest the following routes : — ist Tour, coming from Madrid — spring or atitumn. Cordova . . . R. 2 days. Seville . . . R. Jerez ... K. Cadiz . . . R. Gibraltar St., riding Ronda . . . R. Malaga . . . R. Alhama Ride. Granada Ride. Jaen . . . . R. Madrid . . . R. 2d Tour,/ro>n Gibraltar orvotding the ride. Cadiz . . . St. I day to visit it. Jerez . . R., i „ Seville. . . R., 3 days Cordova . . . R. 2 days Andujar . R. i day Jaen . . . . R. i ,, Granada . . R. 5 days Malaga . R., i day Gibraltar . R. This portion of Spain may thus be easily visited, and at the seaports and SeviUe the constant flow of English ^•isitors has introduced comforts. The finest Moorish monuments are at — 1st, Granada ; 2d, Cordova ; 3d, Seville. The finest churches are at — 1st, SevUle ; 2d, Granada ; 3d, Jaen ; 4th, Malaga. The most picturesque scenery at — 1st, road between Gibraltar and Ronda ; 2d, road between ilalaga and Granada, by Alhama, and also by Loja, Lanjaron, the Bay of Cadiz, Motril, and Gibraltar. With respect to mines, forests, and agriculture, we must draw attention to the copper -mines of Rio Tinto, the quicksilver at Almaden, phosphate of lime at Logrosan, lead at Linares, marbles of ilacael and Pur- chena, lead at Atba, iron at Marbella ; the forests of Segura, the sugar-cane plantations of General Concha betsveen MarbeUa and Gibraltar, the vines of Jerez, the raisin-making at ^lalaga, the Salinas of Cadiz. The dress is most picturesque, but too well known to need description. 18 ARAGON. (the SPANISH PYRENEES.) This foimer Reino (kingdom) lias been divided into the three provinces of Zaragoza, Huesca, and Teruel, which sum up a i)opulation of 880,643 inhabit- ants. Its nucleus was the former king- dom of Sobrarbe (Sobre-Arbe), which, situated in the heart of the Spanish Pyrenees, occupied a space of 12 leagues long by 10 wide. To this and to the mountains of Asturias the vanquished Goths fled for refuge. Here iu time several petty states arose, the prize of a bold chieftain ; and in the llth century Sancho II., whose sway now extended over Aragon, which had grown out and around Sobrarbe and Navan-a, gave these separately to his sons, one of whom, Ramiro, thus became the first king. It was in the 1 2th century annexed by mar- riage to Catalonia, and was governed by its kings until 1469, when the mar- riage took place of its king, Ferdinand the Catholic, with Isabella of Castile. The Aragonese have been remarkable in history for their love of independence and public liberty, and a law in the fueros of Sobrarbe was to the effect that ' whenever the king should infringe the fueros, any other might be elected in his stead, even should he be a Pagan. ' The authority of the king was limited by that of the justicia, or high magistrate, named by the people to watch over their liberties, and who was the link between the king and the popular assemblies. Aragon is a most fertile country, though sadty depopulated. Rivers in- tersect it in all directions, and there are plains of considerable beauty around several large towns. Corn, barley, the olive, and the vine, are much and very succp.ssfully cultivated. The woollens of Ve.nasque and Albarracin are good, and the silkworm has of late been verj successfully introduced. The minerjil riches are not very important. The principal mining districts are : — Teruel — sulphur. Torres, Remolinos — salt. Grustau, Graus — coals. Jaca, Canfranc, Hecho — marbles. Alcaniz — alum. Cetrillas, Daroca — jet. Almoaja, Torres, Nogiiera — copper. Calcena, Venasque, Bielsa — silver. Zoma, Venasque, Salient — lead. The Aragonese are a cold, serious, obstinate, daring race. There is little or no industry, letters and arts are nei- ther studied nor practised ; they are solely agriculturists, soldiers, sports- men, smugglers, and guerrUleros joar ex- cellence. The Spanish PjTcnees are to the traveller one of the many hidden treasures in Spain, for they have seldom been trodden save by the smuggler, the flying Carlist, and the buck or izard. The scenery is very grand, the plants met with of gi'cat vaiiety, and some species little known. There is good sport and angling ; the bear, the wolf, and the cabra montesa or izard (ibex), abound. Trout and salmon thrive unmolested, and there is here a virgin land alike for geologists, alpen stocks, and artists. The best season to visit the Spanish Pyrenees is summer and spring. The latter must be avoided by mountaineers, on account of the avalanches. The principal rivers are the Jiloca, Jalon, Cinca, Gallega. The citi<« in Aragon have no very great interest for the artist, and Aragon has produced but very few, and mostly indifferent, architects, sculptors, and painters. The finest churches are at Zaragoza and Huesca; the cities are poor in menu- ARAGON. 19 ments, and those of little importance. Zaragoza nevertheless has a great cachet of the 16th and 17th centuries. "We shall advise the general tourist to limit liis visit to Zaragoza ; the ecclesiologist can extend his investigations to Jaca, Teruel, Daroca, Tudela, Tarazona, and Barbastro. The railroad crosses the most interesting portion of Aragon ; the carreteras, or high roads, are very ill kejjt ; the mountain-passes, often im- practicable, requiring a guide ; and ac- commodations limited to hovels and miserable possadas (inns). For routes across the PjTenees and mountaiu- pa.sses, heights, etc., see Zaragoza and Barcelona, and Jaca, Venasque, Can- frunc, Barbastro, Huesca, etc. The P}Tenean range in its largest e.xtent stretches from Cape Creux on the Mediterranean to Cape Finisterre on the Galician coast, a distance of about 650 miles, comprising the Astu- rian portions, as well as isthmian part of the chain, which latter forms the mountain - wall diwling Spain from France ; the mean altitude of this is 6000 ft., the maximum height is at- tained almost midway where the Pic de Nethou rises 11,168 ft. above the sea. Between this and the Pic du Midi d'Ossau, 70 m. "W., are the high- est peaks of the chain, many of them above 10,000 ft., and four or five little inferior to Pic de Nethou. From a comparative survey of the chain on the Spanish and French sides, it will be seen that while four-fifths of the waters that rise on the French side have their outpouring in the Atlantic Ocean, as tributaries of the Adour and Garonne, all the streams on the Spanish side are received by the Ebro and flow into the Mediterranean. The highest moun- tains on the Spanish frontier are Monte Perdido (Mont Perdu), 10,994 ft.; the granite peaks of Posets, 11,046 ft. ; and Nethou, 11,168 ft. From the higher mountains spurs are thrown out on either side 20 or 30 m. towards the plain. There are but five carriage- roads across the chain, all lying to the extreme E. or W. The gaps (puertos), with their French equivalents, col, brSche, hourqiue, etc., in the main wall between the two countries are generally higher than the ordinary Alpine passes, and present exceedingly wild and grand scenery ; the cirques or orles, large natural rocky basins, have a peculiar beauty not to be found in the Alps ; but on the Spanish side, being destitute of snow, by reason of the steeper de- clivity on this side, they do not present the same aspect with those on the French side. The scenery, on the whole, together with the dress of the peasants, the style of houses and churches, the botany, etc., tend to establish a curious but real contrast between the two sides. There is better sport in the Spani.sh Pyrenees ; and the mineral-springs, of which Panticosa is the most celebrated, are perhaps supe- rior to those issuing on the French side; but the want of communications, the wretched accommodation at the etablisse- ments, and absence of the most ordinary comforts, are all so many drawbacks to a journey through the Spanish Pyre- nees. We have at ' Barcelona ' enu- merated the most important routes from the French PjTenees on that side into Cataluiia, and describe at Zara- goza those which comprise the main routes leading to Aragon and Na^'aiTC ; the former therefore treating of the E. , and the latter of the W. range. The ex- cursions do not usually exceed four days. The best and safest guides to con- sult, and from which, besides personal experience, we have derived the above information, are — Dr. Lambron's excel- lent and detailed work on the * Pyre- nees of Luchon ' ; the portable, concise, and most practical ' Guide to the Pyre 20 ARANJUEZ. nees,' which was written especially for the use of mountaineeis by Chas. Packe, Esq., with maps, etc. ; Joanne's 'Itine- raiie Descriptif ct Hist, des Pyrenees ;' 'Souvenirs d'un Montagnard' (1858-88), by Count Henry Russell, Pau, 1888. Dress or Costume of the Aragonese. — It is not unlike the Valencian, and differs from any other in Spain. The men wear knee-breeches, generallj^ of the common cotton velvet called _^ja9ia, ornamented about the pockets and ex- tremities with filigree buttons and old medios reales in silver, blue woollen stockings and sandals. The upper man is clad in a black velvet waistcoat, which is a substitute for a coat or jacket, decorated also with filigree but- tons, and very short, so as to show the wide silk or cotton red or vivid bliie faja, which is a whole sac cU voyage, containing and concealing cigars, na- vajas, money, etc. The slouched hat is not often worn, and a coloured ker- chief is fastened like a band or diadem round their foreheads, leaving the upper portion alfresco; the mantas in which 'diey are most gracefully draped are of various colours, white streaked with blue and black being much worn. The women's dress is not nearly so pictur- esque nor complicated ; it is very like that of the Catalonian women. Ob- serve their antique ear-rings, crosses, rosaries, etc. Books of Reference. — 1. ' Anales de la Corona de Aragon,' by Ger. Zurita, Chronista del Picino, Zaragoza, Bermoz, 1562, fol. Two other editions of 1610 and 1669-70, found in several public libraries. It is the most important work ever written on Aragon, full of erudition, free from bombast, excelling in the selection of the most trustworthy sources. 2. Argensola's excellent sequel to Zurita's 'Anales, Zaragoza, Lanaja,' 1630, fol. The author is a standard classical Spanish historian. The in- formation is reliable. 3. ' Historia de la Economia Politica de Aragon,' by Asso del Rio, Zaragoza, Magallou, 1798. 4. Souvenirs d'un ilontagnard (1858- 88). By Count Henry Russell (Pau, 1888). ARANJUEZ. Prov. of Madrid. — Population, SOOO (1898). Koutes. — From Madrid by rail ; time, 14 hr. by mail train, and 2 hrs. by ordinary train. It is on the line from iladrid to Alicante and Valencia ; distance, 30| m. ; fares, 1st cl., Pes. 5.65 ; 2d, Pes. 4.40 ; 3d, Pes. 2.70. Six trains a day, and one or two more dur- ing the irregular Jornada (the Court no longer resides here). From Toledo, distance, 42 kil. ; fares, 1st cl., Pes. 4.35; 2d, Pes. 3.35; 3d, Pes. 1.95; awkward delays at Castillejo. From Alicante and Valencia, dist. 407 kil., and 444 kil. Hotels, Houses. — At station, a mid- dling buffet ; Fonda {Hotel) de las cuatro Naciones, formerly de la Re^/ina, opposite the gardens : fair : complaints of overcharges and incivility. The situation is not good, as to reach the gardens the square is to be crossed, which is no joke when the thermometer is 80° Fahr. Rooms decent ; cooking pretty good ; pension from 7 pes. upwards. Fonda de Emhajadorcs, similar prices, situated in a street, bnt very close to gardens ; clean and cool in summer ; fire - places in winter ; a restaurant ; civil jieople ; charges moderate. Fonda Pastor, fair, reason- ARANJUEZ. 21 able ; view on tlie gardens. There are houses to let upon very reasonable terms. Hired Carriages. — Caleches, very good, with two horses ; a stand close to the Embajadores ; fares, 16r. the first hr. , 1 4r. the second, and follo-vving ; lOr. the course, if \vithin the village or from station, -where there are omnibuses also during the summer only. Pos^O#c«.— Open from 7 to 11.30 A.M., and from 7 to 11 p.m. Letters delivered at 9 a.m. and 10 p.m., but with something of Spanish irregularity. Letters leave at 6 a.m. and 9.15 a.m., and an extra ditto at 3 p. M. Telegraph at the station . General Description. — The illustri- ous and wealthy Order of Santiago held =:everal large estates situated on the banks of the Tagus, of which the finest was an aldea, called Aranzuel or Aran- zueje, happily placed at the confluence of the Tagus and Jarama. Trees were planted, vines and olives cultivated, and near the spot now occupied by the palace, a \alla, partaking of both the convent and the castle, was erected in the 1 5th centur}', by the Maestre of the Order, Suarez de Figueroa. When the Slaestranza was incorporated to the crown, it became the temporary summer residence of the Catholic kings, and the Isla was a very favourite resort of Queen Isabella in her promenades. Charles V. improved the palace, purchased land and kept it up for shooting. Under Philip IL several additions were made by the architects Toledo and Herrera. The marshes of Outigola were con- verted into a lake now pompously called a mar (a sea) ; and it was a pleasant and a regal residence as far back as 1575. Two consecutive fires destroyed the greater portion of the palace, when Philip V. caused, in 1727, a new set of buildings to be erected in imitation of the Louis XIV. style, and the older and remaining portions be- came absorbed in the new works. One Pedro Caro was the architect of this Spanish Fontainebleau, which is as inferior to its model (though even this one is no gem) as La Granja (excepting the gardens) is below Ver- sailles. Fernando VI. improved on it, and Charles III. added the two salient aisles at the extremities of the principal fa9ade. The village was built after an impres- sion de royage of JIarquis Grimaldi, who had just returned from his embassy to the Hague. It was a ludicrous idea to apply Dutch architecture to a Spanish climate, and the effect is curious, cold, and unpleasant. The streets are per- fectly straight, very wide, and treeless, and formed by miserable houses, all on the same plan, two storej-s, small win- dows without shutters, and low roofs. The desertion of Aranjuez by the Court, in favour of La Granja, has deprived the place of what little life it used at times to possess. Several people have recently built villas around or close to the gardens, the best being that of Senor Salamanca, the Spanish Hudson, who made the first railway in Spain (that of Aranjuez). The villas of Marshal Narvaez, Count ol Onate, Marquis of Miraflores, are also lions of the place, but not worth the trouble of seeing. The only sights here are : — The Palace. — Apply for permit to the Senor Intendente del Palacio Real, whose office is in the long line of outer buildings close by the palace. But if the visitor is staying in one of the hotels, the landlord will save all trouble. Fee to porter who shows the palace, from lOr. to 20r. The principal fafade is the best, and is not wanting in good proportions and effect. The facade towards the parterre is something be- tween a poorhouse in Holland and a 22 ARANJUEZ. convent or fabrik. The situation is cliarniiug, as it is surrounded by regal avenues of stately elms and sycamores, at the confluence of the Tagus and Jarania, which form small islands here and there, clothed with trees, a fine cas- cade boiling down close under the win- dows. The interior is very indiff'erent, and the furniture, numberless clocks and candelabra, belong to the stiif un- meaning Greco-Roman style, adopted by Charles IV. and Ferdinand VII. There are a few pictures by Jordan, as the Spaniards call Lucca Giordano, alias Lucca Fa Presto ; a series of pictures representing scenes from the story of the Prodigal Son, Orpheus and Apollo, Bathsheba and Judith, by Conrado Bayeu ; several frescoes by Mengs, Amiconi, and other woi'thies of the worst period of Spanish painting. There is, nevertheless, a fine Titian in the chapel, representing the Annunci- ation of the Virgin, which the master gave to Charles V. The Gahinete de la Oliina is the most elegant boudoir that could be dreamed of in Belgravia ; the walls, doors, ceilings, arc all fitted up with Capo di Monte porcelain, in high relief. This gem was placed here by Charles III. The colours, composition, and execution are wonderful ; the artist, Joseph Gricci. It is dated 1762. There are two rooms in tlie Alhauibraic style. In the queen's dcsjMcIio there is a good Teniers, and her toilet-room has some mosquettine and large mii-rors. Casa del Labrador. — A special per- mit to see this other jmlace, to be ob- tained as before, i^ A silver key opens all these gates and doors. This farm- house, as the name implies, is an affected modesty, for it is notliing but a palace, and, though small, is better fur- nished than the larger one ; but, unlike the Escorial Cell, which is a suite of stately rooms, this Cottage is a series of boudoirs — a I'etit Trianon, built by Charles III., and worthy of a Pompa- dour. The ceilings are all painted by Zacarias Velasquez (not tJie great man), Lopez, an 11. A., Maella, etc. The walls of the back staircase are painted with scenes and personages of the time of Cliarles I. ; the dress of the period and other details are the only interesting feature. On the top is figured a balcony, on which are leaning the handsome wife and children of the painter, Zac. Velas- quez. The bannister on the front stair- case contains £3000 value of gold, and the marbles over the doors, etc., are very fine. The ceiling of large saloon re- presents the four parts of the world, by Maella. There are some fine Sevres vases, anda chair and table in malachite, a present of Prince DemidofTs, valued at about £1500. Visit the gabinete de platina, inlaid with this metal, ivor}', and ebony ; and the one next to it, where mirrors have been profusely placed where they are least required. There are beautifully-embroidered silks and damasks on the walls, representing views in Italy and Greece, marines, etc. The ceilings and doors are very low. Gardens. — De la Isla. — Those so called are situated around the larger palace. They were originally laid out under Philip II., and an idea of their style at that epoch may be formed from the picture taken of them by Velasquez, now in the Royal Gallery at Madrid, under Nos. 1109 (representing tlie Last Fountain in the Garden de la Isla), and 1110 (representing the Avenue or Calle de la Reina). Much was modified after- wards in the Lenotre style of Ver- sailles ; now they are in great neglect and weedy, the fountains mostly dry, the leaves unswept up, and little more done than the .sowing of rye grass and the making of narrow walks and plots. There are some magnificent elms and planes, of the species Uima nigra and I'latanus orienlalis (Linn.) ARANJUEZ. 23 These trees (originally brought from England) were once as great rarities here as the-orange tree, the olive, and the palm would be in a garden at Wind- sor or Kensington. Parterre. — The Fountain of Hercules, with the columns of Calpe and Abyla (Gibraltar and Ceuta) ; round the pedestal are sculp- tured the labours of the god, and above his statue and Anteus. The Fountains of Bacchus, de la Alcuchofa, are of in- different execution. Close to the sus- pension bridge is a large English-looking Hour-mill, the property of Mr, Drake del Castillo, Marquis of Vegamar. In the Gardens del Principe, where the Casa del Labrador is situated, the trees are also very fine, and make of Aran- juez a charming oasis in the midst of the dusty scorehed-up desert wherein Madrid is placed, and to which the foreign residents at Madrid — for the Spaniard is no lover of trees and rus — escape at times to breathe in summer, and hear the choirs of sweet-tongued nightingales, a rara avis for Madrileuos. There are some fine cedars of Lebanon and colossal elms. Visit the Islas Americanas, peopled with several in- teresting species imported from America under Charles III. The usual cockney- fled TTiontanas rusas, and suizas, grot- toes, kiosks, fountains, labyrinths, etc. , found in the gardens of that period of bad taste, abound also here. On the banks of the river, which flows some- what rapidly, are some paddocks of the crown, where the cream-coloured Aran- juez breed are reared, and also several camels, llamas, etc. According to the journal kept by Lord Auckland, am- bassador to Charles III., there was great animation here at that time, the court and ministers dined bet ween twelve and two o'clock, and drove to the Calle ie la Reina at five, in landaus drawn by six or ten mules, and four footmen behind. There was much shooting, hunting, balls, and intrigues, and fre- quent exhibitionsof horsemanshipcalled liarejas, where the princes and young nobleman played the most prominent part, in the presence of 10,000 or 12,000 spectators. The horses, to the sound of music, fonued into various figures * resembling a very complicated dance. ' The most interesting drives are Camino de las Rocas to Lago de Ontigola, etc.,. and to the Bodega or wine-cellars, made on a very great scale by Charle.'. III. in 1788 ; they are curious for then size. The wine made in the environs is of inferior quality, which has not been improved by such good connoisseurs and landed proprietors as Senores Marin, Zayas, etc. The cahallerizas (stables) are in the village itself, but no longer deserve a visit, since the finest of the horses have been removed. There is a theatre open during the season, which begins about April and ends in June, when all who can depart, as then the heat is very great, and the ague resulting from the great evapora- tion and stagnant waters to be dreaded, causing many deaths amongst the inha- bitants. The bull-ring is large, and there are occasionally very good corri- das. The sporting world of Madrid contrive now and then to get up a steeplechase, which is about what a bull-fight would be in England. At very rare intervals the court resides at this sitio real in the early sum- ujer. There is then some animation in this otherwise dull and monotonous place ; but Aranjuez, even then, cannot recover its past splendour and gaieties, and well may we exclaim with Schiller, Die schonen Tage in Aranjuez siiid nun zu Ende ! — Don Carlos. Books of Reference. — 1. ' Obras Li- ricas y Comicas, Divinas y Humanas,' etc. , by Hurtado de Mendoza ; Madrid, Zuiiiga, about 1728. A verse and prose 24 ASTURIAS. description of the gardens and palaces ; contains, moreover, one of a fiesta in tlie time of Charles II. of Spain. 2. ' Descripcion Hi-storica de la Rl. Casa y Bosque de Aranjuez,' by Guin- dos y Bue]ia ; ]\Iadrid, Impta. Real, 1804. 3. 'Descripcion de los Jardines Fu- entes, Estatuas Palacio, Casa del La- brador,' etc., by M. AleAS ; Madrid, 1824. 4. ' Quia Pintoresca Descripcion,' etc. , by E. de E. y K. ; Madrid, Rufino, 1864. The mineral springs ( !) and flora of the cerros aroimd Aranjuez have been given by Doctor Gamez in his ' Ensayo sobre las Agiias Medicinales de Ai'an- juez,' 1771. ASTU RIAS. If we are to believe Silius Italicus and others, the Asturians descend by name and race from Astyr, a follower, or rather servant, of Memnon, and fugitive from Troy. Father Sota, in his ' Crouica de los Principes de Asturias,' too proud to admit of Astyr for his low origin, con- verts him into Jupiter Cretensis and Mercury Trismegistus, etc. But the real origin of the name comes from the river Astura, afterwards called Extula and Stola, and finally Ezla ; and the Asturii were then the different peoples that dwelt between the Cantabrian Sea and the Duero, which latter separated them from the Yettoni, as the Ezla from the Vaccaci, etc. Tlie most warlike amongst them were the Traiismoutane Asturii, who lived between the ocean and the Erbasian hills, which to this day are called Arvas, and whose limits corre- spond exactly to those of the present princii)ality of Asturias. They were ori- ginally peopled by the Ligiiri of Italy (see Avieuus), and are mentioned in Himilcar's 'Journey round Spain.' The Celts presently settled here, and a por- tion of them mixed with the Asturii ; they were a most warlike, iiKle})endent race, and the Romans had great trouble to overcome them. Augustus himself came in 27 B.C. with that object, and had to retire, dejected, out of humour and patience, to Tarragona, and, as is well known, the Cantabrian war lasted upwards of five years, at the end of which time Agrippa subdued them. The riches of this country did not escape the slirewd Roman, who knew that money is the nerve of war. Lucan, Martial, S. Italicus, mention the mines that abounded : Astur avarus Visceribus laurse telluris mergitur imis, Et redit infelix effoso concolor auro. Pliny was not ignorant of them, anc Florus says : ' Circa se omnis aurifera, miniique et chrysocallse et aliorum, co- larum ferax. ' The Roman Treasmy was in the yearly receij)t of 20,000 libras of gold from Asturias. The sure-footed, gentle, and xintiiing jaquUas, called by them Asturcoiics, are praised by S. Italicus as Ingentes animi, membra haud procera de- cusque : Corporis exiguum ; sed turn sibi fecerat alas, Concitus, atque ibat campo indygnatas habenas. The Romanised Asturians, so to say, made great resistance to the Goth, and it was not until the 7th century that they submi tted. ■\^'^len the hour of the downfall of the Gothic monarchy had sounded for all Spain, the mountains between the Atlantic and the Mediter- ranean became the refuge of those who had not bent before the Berber, and in a community of danger, the descend- ant of the Roman, the blue-eyed Goth, and the tall Iberian, all became one and the same race, and were regenerated, and found unity and strength, by seek- ASTURIAS. 25 ing in common a country and liberty. Pelayo, a Eoman by name, but whose father, Favilla, was a Goth, and of the blood royal, came from Toledo, where he commanded Witiza's body-guard, and roused his countrymen to fight. The love of his country moved him to it, as well as the outrages his sister had been exposed to at the hands of Munuza. The Berbers sent Al-Kaman to reduce the independent tribes. Pelayo headed his troops, and succeeded in drawing the Arabs into the recesses and danger- ous gorges of Covadonga, where lie mas- sacred them by thousands — 187,000, according to Bishop Sebastian, and 80,000, to the Tudense. The chief Pelayo was now proclaimed king, and during nineteen years endeavoured to consolidate a kingdom, which was created in a day of victory. To achieve his work he was not a little aided by the di^'isions amid the Arabs, their defeats in the south of France, and more espe- cially by the inaccessibility of those natural baiTiers which, moreover, led to no wealthy cities. Other attempts were made among the Basques, in Navarre and Aragon, which gradually gave birth to a series of new petty kingdoms, remaining separate, and practically independent, until Aragon was united with Castile, in 1474, by the auspicious marriage of Ferdinand and Isabella, and twenty-eight years later Navarre was com^uered by Ferdi- nand, in 1512. Oviedo became the capital of the Asturias, after Cangas de Onis and Pravia had ceased to be such, and after becoming in turn the victim and head of its neighbours, Leon and Galicia, were absorbed in the kingdom of Castile. ^Yhen Juan I. married his son Henry to Catherine, daughter of the Duke of Lancaster, the Cortes of Palencia (1388) decreed that the Astu- rias would henceforth become the ap- panage of the heirs to the crown, and they have ever since been styled Prin- dpes de Asturias. Asturias is situated on a much lower level than Castile, and is intersected by hills, which form rich Swiss-like vales, where pasture is abundant. The sierra on the S. rises like a gigantic wall, and is but a prolongation of the Pyrenean system, and impracticable save by the Puerto de Pajares. It closes in a line parallel to the sea, which forms its na- tural barrier on the N. It occupies a surface of 388 square leagues, with a somewhat dense population of 524,529, giving 341 "80 per Spanish mile of 20 to the degree. The aspect of Asturias varies, but it is in general woody, ■with fruit trees, planes, the chestnut, and ash in the valley region. The mountainous districts abound in Salvator Rosa-like rocks and ravines, foaming torrents gushing from the summits into yawning precipices, virgin forests of oaks, the Querent robur (Linn.), and beech -trees, and the bear and the wolf are not unfre- quently met with. In the coast-line the vegetation changes, and there are between sheltering hills bosomed vales where the orange gi'ows. The climate is generally damp and cold, on account of the icy blasts from the snowy hills, and the cierzo or N. wind which blows from its denudeil shores. There is much fog and con- tinued rains, a consequence of the high hills, the abundance of trees, and water. These vapours, which in some portions and at certain periods hang over the valleys, produce an absence of chiaro oscuro, which deprives the scenery, otherwise grand and varied, of anima- tion and relief. Agriculture is the principal occupa- tion of the people ; the centeno (rye) grows well on the slopes of the moun- tains, corn has been of late years much cultivated, esj^ecially the species called candcal or cscanda; and the Indian 26 ASTURIAS. corn, called here borona, is grown. The vine, wliieh was cultivated in the middle ttges, has been superseded by the poma- rada, or aj^ple-trees, from which toler- able cider is extracted. Cattle and sheep are the object of much attention, and the jnaras of pigs are celebrated. The hiUs and spurs of the sierras abound with game, wild boars, and deer, and the rivers witli trout and salmon. The Ayuntamientos, or Commons, are sub- divided into fcligresias, and these again into lurjares (from locus). The houses in these country places are clean, tidy, and white-washed ; close to them are tlie orrios or gi-anaries (from the Latin hor re U7n), which are made of wood, and rise upon pillars, so as to keep out rats and moisture. The people are a hardy, humble, good-hearted race, celebrated for their honesty and industry, and of patriarchal habits. In this corner of Spain, where railways and the press have hardly yet penetrated, there are treasures of novel scenes, costumes, and customs in store for the artist ; as, for example, the ro- merias, or pilgi'images to the princi- pal shrines of this piously-minded people. There is heard the old war-cry, ijuju ! and the dance, worthy of a bass- relief, called da7iza j)ri)rui, takes place, which consists of two choirs, one exclu- sively composed of men, who move hand in hand and slowly round in a circle, keeping time with the melancholy ro- mance which is sung by achoir of women. This, the muileira, and others not less poetical and atiticiue in character are danced also after the coida, or fruit- gathering (liarvest). On the long win- ter iii'dits, when the snow lies so tliick at the door that the very stars seem shiver- ing in the amethyst heaven, and the big round moon peeps ghost-like at the win- dow, the elders of the village or farm sit round the sliining Uar, and frighten the maidens and amu.sc the lads witJi legends of a truly German cast, wherein are mentioned the doings of tlie xanaa, or diminutive fairies that rise from fountains and springs at night time, and dry their slimy hair in the moon- beams ; and the evil and mischief-mak- ing huestes, that appear in the woods and over mar.shes, messengers of sorrow and death. The meetings in the open air, the oblada, or eating-offering at funerals, are likewise curious. The idiom is a dialect of the Romance, the only one possessing a distinct form for the neuter gender in adjectives. It has great analogy with the Galician and Portuguese, and also with the Italian and Limousin. It is called Bahle, a word not unlike the French habil, and Dutch babelen, for which the Spanish has no equivalent save charla and gerigonza. In this dialect the j sounds ij, and often like ch, the /is in- stead of h aspirate (falar for Imblar, fer for hacer). With but few modifica- tions it is almost the same language in which Berceo, Segura, and the Arci- preste de Hita wrote ; the number of augmentatives and diminutives give to it great charm, strength, and tenderness. There are no vestiges of Bable ballads anterior to the I7tli century, and those sung or found in Astirrias dating before are in Castilian. Of the latter we may be allowed to give an example : it is the most popular ballad in Asturias, and in quaintness and plaintive strain is not unlike some Scottish ballads. It is sung by alternate choirs, at their dances, and is a Castilian romance : — Ay un galan de esta villa, Ay un galan de esta casa Ay el por aqui venia, Ay el por aqui llegaba. — Ay diga lo que el queria Ay diga lo que el buscaba. — Ay busco la blanca nina, Ay busco la nina blanca, I.a que el cabello tejia La que f 1 cabello trenzaba. ASTURIAS. 27 Que tiene voz delgadita, Qua tiene la voz delgada. — Ay que no la hay n'esta villa, Ay que no la hay n'esta casa, Si no era una mi prima, Si no era una mi hermnna, Ay del marido pedida, Ay del marido velada. Ay la tiene alii SeviUa, Ay la tiene alia Granada, Ay bien qu'ora la castiga, Ay bien que la castigaba, Ay con varillas de oliva. Ay con varillas de malva. — Ay que su amigo la cita, Ay que su amigo I'aguarda, Ay el que le did la cinta, Ay el que le dio la saya, Al pie de una fuente fria, Al pie de una fuente clara Que por el oro corria, Que por el oro manaba. Ya su buen amor veiiia, Ya su buen amor llegaba, Por donde ora el sol salia, Por donde ora cl sol rayaba, Y celos le despedia, Y celos le demandaba. Dress of the Peasantry. — The men wear white felt caps enlivened by green trimming, and the black velvet montera of the Gallegos is seen here and there. The vxaragatos wear a special dress, wide knee-breeches called zaraguelles tied on the knee by red cottou garters, large slouched hats, long brown cloth gaiters jmlamas, leather jerkins, jubo- netas with a cinturon of leather, em- broidered and coloured red, and a black long undercoat in cloth. The wealthy inhabitants wear almost the same cos- tume, but without tlie jerkin, and the cloth is replaced by silk. The women wear a peculiar dress, very picturesque also, and when married, a sort of head- gear called ellcariDiiidlii. "With the exception of its principal towns Asturias is very backward in civilisation, but enormously interesting to the ecclesiologist, sportsman and lover of fine scenery. The country is quite Swiss-like, and we recommend it to enterprising pedestrians and horse- men, — tliough they must be prepared to rough it, as inns and post-houses are tilings unknown in the mountains of Asturias. But the unbought hospitality in the farms is very great and heartfelt. The season for travelling in Asturias is spring, summer, or not at all —except on the sea-coast, where autumn is not so much to be feared. Asturias abounds in very rich mines ; but through ignorance, bad faith, often neglect, and want of funds, Asturian mines have been neither sought for nor worked as they deserve. The subsoil of most of the extent of the province consists of deep beds of excellent coal, inferior to no other in the world save that from Newcastle ; the principal beds are at Langreo, Mieres, Santo Firme, Ferroues, etc. A railroad carries the ore from the former to the quay at Gijon, where they are embarked. Iron ore, copper ore, quicksilver, and jet are also largely exported. There is a rich copper mine at Labiana, cobalt at Pe- fiamellera, tin at Salave, antimony at Cangas de Tineo, quicksilver at Po de Cabrales, Carabia, etc. To those coming from JIadrid we recommend : — Begin tour at Leon, proceed to Oviedo, whence by Cangas de Tineo, Fonsagrada, Lugo, riding ; there take the rail to Coruna, ride round the extreme N. W. point by Ferrol and Vivero to Kivadeo, or proceed by dil. or riding from Coruna to Rivadeo by Mondouedo, Castropol, Aviles, and Gi- jon (or back to Oviedo), Infiesto, Can- gas de Onis, Covadonga, Abandares (near is Peiiamelera), S. Vicente, San- tillana, Santander. Tourists coming from France may either take the inverse route, or, if pressed for time, limit their excursion to a ride through Santillana, Covadonga, and Oviedo, returning either by one of the steamers that ply between Gijon and Santander, or by rail from Oviedo to Leon. The churches are 28 AVILA. among the earliest known in tlie Penin- sula, and of very high interest to the ecclesiologist. The style is peculiar to Asturias, and portions of Galicia and Leon. The best examples are cited in our General Information, Architecture. The principal rivers and streams, abounding with salmon, are : at Sella, near Cangas de Onis ; the salmon-pools of Pazo de Monejo, near Abandares ; on the Deva river, the points called Car- reras, Abandones, and Arenas. There is excellent trout in the Cares, near Mier, and in the Yernesga, between Oviedo and Leon. Books of Reference. — 1. ' Antigiie- dades concernientes a la Eegion de los Asturos Transniontanos, ' (only to the 10th century), by Risco, in the 37th vol. of his ' Espana Sagi'ada. ' The 37th, 38th, and 39th vols, of ' Espaiaa Sagiada' contain the most accurate, critical, and extensive information that exists upon Asturias. 2. 'Historia Natural y Medica del Principado de Asturias,' by D. Casal; Madrid, Martin, 1762, 4to., well spoken of by Senipere in his ' Ensayo de una Bibl. Espafia de Escritores del Reinado de Carlos 111.,' vol. ii. p. ] 52. 3. 'Coleccion de Poesias Asturianas, Oviedo, 1839, contains the best ex- amples of the poets of the 17th and 18th centuries, with a good philological discourse on the dialect. 4. For the natural liistorj' of this region, see Bowles' 'Introduccion a la Historia Xatural,' etc., and Casal's ' Descripcion. ' 5. ' Minas de Carbon de Piedra de Asturias,' 8vo., Madrid, with a map and sections, by Ezquerra del Bayo, Bauza, etc., 1831. 6. 'Resena geognostica del Princi- pado de Asturias, ' by G. Schultz, in the ' Anales de Minas,' 1838, vol. i. 7. 'Asturias y Leon,' by J. M. Quadrado, in the series EsjmMa, sus Momimentos y Artes (Barcelona : Cor- tezo). A very valuable work. 8. * Notice sur les Fossiles devoniens des Asturies,' by De Verneuil, d'Ar- cliiac, ' Bulletins de la Societe Geo- logique de France,' 1845, 2d series, vol. ii. p. 458. Also Parcerisa's 'Recuerdos y Bellezas de Espaiia ' ; the ' Monumentos Arqui- tectonicos ' ; the publications of the Spanish Folk -Lore Society and the annual official mining statistics. AVI LA. Capital of province of same name — 9500 inhab. ; bishopric. Routes and Conveyances. — 1. From Madrid, by rail ; distance, 50| miles ; time, ?>| hrs. by express ; 5 hrs. by slow train. Fares, 1st cl.. Pes. 1 3.15 ; 2d, Pes. 9.85. A buffet ; breakfast, 12r. ; dinner, 14r. — pretty good. Trains stop 20 minutes. It is on the line from Bayonne to Madrid, by Burgos and Valladolid. It is also reached from Escorial by rail direct 27^ miles ; time about 1 J hours by express, and tourists may thus combine the hours so as to vi.sit Avila, avoiding, if po.ssible. to sleep there, though the inn is improved. 2. Antiquaries d, outrance who wish to visit the antiquities at Guisando, on the way to Avila, can hire horses at Esco- rial and perform the following tour : — Route 2. Leagues Escorial to San Martin de Valdeiglesias 2 Guisando i Tiemblo .... .1 Berraco 2 Avila . .2 R Or, Escorial to Navas dei Marques Urraca ... 2i AVILA. 29 And 3, also from or to Segovia, by the Escorial, Guadarrama, San Ilde- fonso, 18 J leagues. Very hard riding over uninteresting countrj'. The old diligence service between Avila and Salamanca has been superseded by the railway route via iledina del Cainpo. Description' of 2d Koute. — Very near San JIartin de Valdeiglesias is the Bemardine convent of that name, which was founded in the 12th century by Alfonso VII., and whose gem, a fine plateresque silleria, the master-piece of Toledano, 1571, has been removed to the University of Madrid. One league farther is the convent of San Geronimo de Guisando, situated on a slope, amid laurels and cj'presses, from which the view extends over the Vega and Villa of San Martin. Its grottoes and caves served a.s cells to the Italian hermits who founded with some Spanish brethren the Order of St. Gerome. In a vineyard at the base of the hill axe scattered sculptures which, from their apparent, thougli very rude, imitation of bulls, or rather boars, havebeen termed los toros de Guisando. Their origin and purpose are alike doubtful. Some authorities regard them as the ancient deities of the natives ; more likely they were landmarks. Keltiberian characters of doubtful authenticity havebeen found upon certain of these toros ; but, almost illegible to old Pedro de Medina, even as far back as the 16th century, they are entirely so now. These toros would seem at one time to have been numerous in Central Spain, as old writers mention a considerable number of them. General Description. — Inns: Del Ingles ; Del Jardin, both poor. Avila, which still preserves much of the Gothic style in its edifices, houses, and aspect, is one of the most backward cities in the world. Its origin, as of all other cities in Spain, is attributed to fabulous heroes and demi-gods, and it is curious to seehow seriously such learned men as the Benedictine Luis Ariez in his grandozas de Avila (' Alcald de Hcnares,' fol. 1607, the MS. 'Historia de Avila,' ascril)ed to Bishop Pelayo of Oviedo, in the Biblio- teca Nacional, G. 112) could lose their time in wTiting volumes to prove which of the forty-tliree Hercules of Paganism was king of Spain, and married an African princess called Abyla, whose son founded A\'ila. But by whomsoever the city was founded and peopled, trustworthy chronicles allow us to sup- pose that it was repeopled by Count Don Remond, by order of King Alfonso VI., liis father-in-law. Its massive walls are still extant, and form a fine specimen of the military architecture and engineering of the 11th century, some of which are 42 ft. high and 14 ft. thick. The gloomy aspect of this de- cayed city is increased by the dark colour of the granite employed in the construction. The chief sight is The Cathedral, which partakes of the castle, from its massiveness and capabilities of defence. (See especially the exterior of the apse, with its bold machicolations, which forms actually a part of the city walls.) Commenced logi, by one Alvar Garcia, a Navarrese architect, the cathedral church of San Salvador was ready for consecration only sixteen years afterwards ; but was slowly perfected during the whole of the i2th and part of the 13th centuries. The interior, of very pure Gothic and good propor- tions, is somewhat marred, both in detail and accessories, by bad late work and restoration. The finest portion is the exquisite double aisle round the Capilla Mayor. The exterior western faqade, with its towers, crocketed pediment and ball enrichment, is very imposing, as is also the facade of the north transept. Note especi- ally the sculpturing of the north doorway, representing the Coronation of the Virgin, the Betrayal in the Garden and the Institution of the Blessed Sacrament. The stained glass throughout is very rich and good, notably that by Santillana and Valdivieso in the 13th century Capilla del Cardinal opening out of the E. side of the sadly-defaced cloisters. The fine retablo of the high altar is late 15th centurj-, with three stages of paintings by Juan de Borgona, Pedro 30 AVILA. Berruguete and Santos Cruz. Tlie solitary figures of SS. Peter and Paul, with the four Evangelists and four doctors of the Church, which occupy the lowest stage, are full of life and vigorous conception. The more ambitious compositions above — first the Annunciation, Nativity, Transfiguration, Adoration of the Magi and the Presentation in the Temple, and then the Scourgins;, the Agony, the Crucifixion, the Descent into Hades and the Resurrection — are not so satisfactory. The choir-stalls, by Cornielis, 1536-47, are elaborately Renaissance, as are many other fittings of the church. Ob- serve carefully the tombs and monuments, especially that of the learned Bishop of Avila, Alfonso El Madrigal (also called ' El Tostado ' and 'El Abulense'), ob. 1455; the exquisite Renaissance alabaster monument to Sau Se- gundo on the S. side of the Crossing (his tomb is in the hideous Churrigueresque chapel on the S.E. of the apse); the sepulchre ' de los imagenes' in the San Nicolas chapel, and the fine 13th century monument in the San Miguel chapel. The Relicario should be inspected for the sake of Juan de Arfe's classical silver monstrance, and a goodly array of church plate. (Juan de Arfe was the best of a great Leonese family of artists of the name, speci- mens of whose work may be seen in most of the Spanish cathedrals.) The three most remarkable churches after the cathedral are those of San Vicente, San Pedro, and Santo Tomds. The first stands just outside the walls on the road to the station, and is of the finest Romanesque of the 13th century. It is dedicated to the three martyrs Vicente, Sabina and Cristeta, who, for dese- crating an altar of Jupiter, were executed by order of the Emperor Dacian at the beginning of the 4th century, upon the rock which may still be seen in the crypt below the Capilla Mayor. Note carefully four points : — the ad- mirable way in which, in both interior and exterior treatment, the difficulties of a rapidly sloping side are overcome ; the noble west end, with its lofty double porch and double portal, all just sufficiently and beautifully decorated ; the open cloistering carried along the outside of the south wall, and the 13th century monu- ment to the three martyrs on the S. side of the Crossing. The late baldachin covering this tomb is poor, but the life — the intense expres- sion — of the sculptured representations of the martyrdom set forth upon the panels of the shrine is beyond all praise. San Pedro stands in the Plaza del Mercado, and is similar in style to San Vicente, but of rougher workmanship. Santo Tomds lies half a mile outside of the city on the S.E. Founded 1482 by Ferdinand and Isabella, at the insti- gation of the Inquisitor Torquemada, the monastery became a favourite residence of the monarchs, and the educational home of their only son. Prince Juan. It has lately been restored, and handed over to the Dominicans for seminarial purposes. Both church and cloisters are worth seeing. The former is of very impressive Gothic, with clever arrange- ment of light and shade. Note the carved silleria of the choir (by Cornielis), and the paintings of the retablo (perhaps by Fernando Gallegos), but especially the glorious Renais- sance tomb of Prince Juan, before the high altar, together with that of his attendants, Juan de Avila and Juana Velazquez, in a chapel on the north side of the nave. Prince Juan's tomb is by Domenico El Fiorentino, and is one of the finest pieces of Renaissance work in the world. Visit also the small Romanesque church of San Segundo, situated at the N.W. angle of the city, near the Adaja bridge, upon the spot where the bishop-saint is said to have cast down a recalcitrant Moor from the turret above (the effigy of the bishop, by Berruguete, is noteworthy) ; also the churches of San Esteban, San Andres and Mosen Rubi — with its toros de Guisando — and the quaint old houses of the Condes Polentinos, Onate and ' Petrus Avila.' Finally, a walk through the Plaza del Mercado on a market-day — for the sake of its groups of country-folk in character- istic costume — the circuit of the city walls, and a visit to the Santa Casa, close by the S.W. gate, should on no account be omitted. The latter, now only a gaudily decorated convent- church, is the birthplace of the Santa Teresa de Jesus to whom Avila owes its greatest glory, and whose records and religious houses may here be met with more plentifully than in any other part of Spain. The strange life of the saint is well known — her childlike gracious- ness and fervent devotion, her innumerable visions and exalted mysticism, her supremely patient work and final triumphing. The memorials of one who in a ceaseless fight of forty -seven years conquered self, conquered suflfering, conquered persecution and contjuered Time, would alone call for a visit to Avila, even if the city of itself were not a place of deep interest and usefullest study. BALEARIC ISLANDS. S&e PALMA. BADAdOZ. See, p. 53C. ]yLM)KID &, BILBAO to ZARAGOZA.LERTDAcl-BARCELO^S^A. (aiamocna \ )\JlinMniaid'^ C'ortesfK-'' 'S.Selia.stiaa , .'AMPLONA . ,„ //u/-^''/^ww. Edinr PuUishedliy Xir (IBIack, l.ou-ion. 31 BARCELONA. Capital of province of same name, for- merly of Cataluha(seelatttT),residenceof C'apitan-General of Cataliina ; bisliop's see, suffragau of Archbishop of Tarra- gona. Pop., with suburbs, 512,000. Houtes and Conveyances. — 1st. The direct route of the 'M.Z.A.' in com- bination with the 'T.B.F.,' vid Zara- goza, Mora, Reus and Villanueva : distance, 196 m. : fares, 1st cl., Pes. 78.80; 2d cl., Pes. 59.10; time, 22 hrs. by slow train, 16^ by tri-weekly exp. Scenery between Hijar and Reus, along the banks of the Ebro (see esp. Caspe, Flix, and Mora), and again be- tween Ecus and Sitjes, very fine. No towns of great interest between Zara- goza and Reus. Good buffet {table d'Mle) at Mora. (For description of route as far as Zaragoza see Madrid.) 2d. By rail to Zaragoza as above, and thence by the line north of the Ebro, a route to be taken for the sake of some in- teresting stopping-places. Buffets (fair) >it L^rida and Manresa. The country is not very interesting. The principal features are, great scarcity of trees, ex- cept some olives here and there ; scarcity of villages and towns on the way ; plains very extensive, and some hills, on slopes ofwhich vines are cultivated. At Villa- mieva the Gallego is seen on the right. At Zuera it is crossed on a bridge. Tardicnta, reached about two hours after leaving Zaragoza. Branch rail from here to Huesca, 9^ m., from whence dil. to Barbastro, 8 leagues, from which one may return to take up R. line from Zaragoza to Barcelona at the station of Monzon. Huesca is an interesting excursion for ecclesiologists, as the ca- thedral is fine. To those who visit Huesca and Barbastro, see end of Zara- goza. At one hour's ride from the station of Sarinena is a fine Carthusian convent of good style ; the pictures once here have been taken to Huesca and to Sariiiena, and a fine Christ to the village of Lanaja. Not far from it the country is much broken up, as if by convulsions, and here and there appear lofty masses of red earth not unlike some mouldering Titanic fortresses, or ruins of castles, worthy of the pencil of Salvator Rosa. Sclgua. — Branch line to Barbastro, 6| miles. Monzon. — Conveyances to Barbastro 8J miles. The Cinca river, which passes here, divides Aragon from Cataluna. The castle, on a height, is very old ; was enlarged by Templars in 1143, to whom it was granted by Count Ramon Ber- enguer. The ruins on another height close by are ascribed to the Romans. Lirida (see Tarragona from Zaragoza). Cap. of Lerida. Pop. 30,000. Hotels^ Fonda de Uspana, Fonda Suiza, fair. The Segre is crossed by a fine bridge. Bdlpxiig, about f hr. from Lerida. This was the solar or family mansion of the Anglesolas, whose castle crowns a hill. Close to it is the celebrated Franciscan convent, now deserted and going to utter ruin. The exterior is iiidiH'erent. It was founded in the 16th century by Don Ramon de Cardona, Viceroy of Naples. The gem of it is the cloisters, which are formed by three galleries ; the two lower ones belong to the decline of Gothic, and the third is classical. The pillars of the second gallery, which presentsa somewhat strange appearaiice, are not unlike those of the Lonja of Valencia, and the capitals are orna- mented with foliage, fruit, and figures. The spiral staircase leading from the cloister to the church is of great merit, from its well-combined proportions. In this church, and on one side of the altar, is a very fine mausoleum, the 32 i3AKCEL0NA — ROUTES. tomb of the fonndcr. 'llie style is classic. The relievi representing scenes from liis Life in Italy, Africa, etc. ; genii, medallions, allegorical figures, and all other such ornament appropriate to this style appear well executed. The relievi will interest the artist as pre- senting a rich collection of the military costumes worn at the beginning of the 16th century. The Virgin and child above are of bad effect. The sarco- phagus is placed within a deep recessed niche, the external arch of which is suppoi'ted by caryatatides with dolorous countenances. The relievo on the back of the niche represents a Virgin and dead Christ, with the Magdalen and angels. The tomb is of most elegant design. Upon a broad pedestal are two sirens kneeling. The basement is sculp- tured with finely modelled horses and marine monsters. On the central front of the irrn are sculptured mythological subjects, fine in composition, well grouped, and with movement and life. The lying effigy, armed cap-k-pie, is holding a staff. The soldier's sword, a presentfrom Julius II., was sacrilegiously carried ofi"by the French. Ponz, Celles, and other sure connoisseurs, consider this monument as a very fine specimen of architectural ornamentation. There is an excessive profusion of details, worked out to a Chinese scrupulosity on the helmets, escutcheons, vases, etc. ; the figures are natural, graceful, pleas- ing, and well executed. This magnificent in memoriam on stone was erected by the wife of llamon de Cardona. It is of Carrara marble ; the sculptor, Juan Nolano. Manresa (Buffet. Inn: F. de Santo Domingo), niost picturesquely situated on tlie left bank of the Cardoner ; pop. 21,000. One of tlie largest manufactur- ing cities in Cataluna. Cloth, cotton weaving, and distilling are the principal fabrics. The Colegiata is interesting, of Gothic architecture, with some fine painted glass. The Cueva de San Iijnacio, where San Ignacio de Loyola, the founder of the Order of Jesuits, wrote his book and did penance, may be visited. Diligence daily to salt mines of Cardona, belonging to Duke of Medinaceli. To visit them obtain an order from his steward at Cardona. The mine is a mountain of salt, 500 feet high, and a league in circumference. Some of the grottoes are most effective. I'arrasa, pop. 15,000; manufactories of cloth, paper, woollens. Sabadell, pop. 20,000. One of the wealthiest and most manufacturing cities in Cataluiia. Something like 120 cloth factories and cotton mills, with an annual produce reaching £550,000. Busy, eager life, full of enterprise and with a daily in- creasing trade. The sea shortly after appears on the left, and Barcelona is reached. 3d. From Bayonne : A, by Irun and Pamplona (see Madrid) ; B, by the valley of Baztan, Pamplona, and Zara- goza (no longer any public conveyance). 4th. From Perpignan via Gerona : By llailivuy throughout. The fron- tier lies between the stations Cerbere (French) and Port Bou (Spanish). Distance, Barcelona, 134 miles south- west. Perpignan to Port Bou, 5 trains daily, in 1 hr. (express) ; here 40 m. stoppage ; buffet. To Gerona, 2 hrs. (express) ; Gerona to Barcelona, 2J hrs. : in all about 4^ hrs. Daily expresses from Paris to Barcelona through Per- pignan, in 24 hi's. Perpignan. — Hotels : De France ; De I'Europe ; Grand Hotel ; Nord et Petit Paris. Coflee-house : Cafe Fran- 9ais. This is a chief lieu of the Pyre- nees Orieutales, 28,360 inhab. It is a dull and backward town, with little or nothing to interest the tourist, save perhaps tlie Citaddle, which was ori- ginally begun by the kings of Aragon. BARCELONA — ROUTES. 33 and considerably strengthened by Charles V. The river Tet crosses the city. Fine church of San Juan ; this with the Exchange, Library, Picture Gallery, Maison de Ville, etc., with the more interesting Botanical Gardens, constitute the principal sights. Rail- way to Barcelona. On leaving the city to the left, observe the arches of an aqueduct made by a king of l^Iajorca, to bring the waters of the Tet to the royal palace. The river Canterane is then crossed ; farther on that of the Reart, with riiins of a castle on left. ELNE, 8 m. (pop. 2764). A village with a cathedral of eleventh century, on an eminence above the river Tech. Han- nibal encamped under its walls. ARGELESSUR-MEU, 13J m. (pop. 2833). In the midst of a fertile plain. The line now approaches the sea, and passes through a promontory by a tunnel 610 yards long to COLLIOURE, 17 m. (pop. 3409). A fishing- village hemmed in between clifl's. On the summit of the hill behind is Fort St. Ebno. Very good Rousillon wine is grown in the neighbourhood. PORT VENDRES, 18 m. (pop. 2040). A port with docks and quays. The telegraph cable to Algiers commences here. Sardines are caught and cured. BANYVLS-SUR-MER, 21 m. (pop. 3609). Hotels : Pujol and Grand Hotel. A fishing -village frequented in summer by bathers. It has an ancient church, St. Jean d'Amont, 11th cent. The wine Abbe Roux, used in the Mass, is gro\vn here. The winter is mild, dry, and sedative, and the place is well suited for people out of health. Sardine fiflhery. CERBERE, 25^ m. French custom- house station. Money may be changed here. Buffet. PORT-BOU, 264 ™- Spanish custom- house station, and Madrid time — 25 minutes behind Paris. Buffet. The village lies in a picturesque bay be- low the station. One hour at least is lost here in ex- amining the luggage, a process that should be attended to before entering tlie restaurant. A fair exchange office in the station. Resuming the journey after passmg, among other small stations, Llansa, a small port, wo anive (16 miles from Port Bon) at Figueras. — Hotels: Dessaya, Fonda del Comercio — 13,000 inhab. A de- cayed old town, with no fine monu- ments ; the Citadelle is the most im- portant one in Cataluna, and is con- sidered by foreign as well as Spanish engineers as almost impregnable, if such a thing is possible in the days of Armstrong and Whitworth. The city is situated in a plain where the olive now grows, but where formerly rice was cultivated. The castle of San Fernando, crowning the height, was erected by Ferdinand VI. and enlarged by Charles III. It is built in the rock, and its shape is an irregular pentagon. It was the work of the military engi- neer Cermino. The circumference is 7380 feet (about) ; its length, N. to S., 3090; breadth, E. to W., 1938. Its magazines and arsenals (bomb-proof), barracks for 20,000 men, and stables for 500 horses, are all wonderfully con- trived. The water-cisterns are inex- haustible. The weakest point is the bastion of San Roque, close to the principal entrance, and the unliiiished caballero of Santa Barbara, which latter leaves the fortress exposed to the 34 BARCELONA — ROUTES. heights of Mounts Sana, La Perdera, Avinonet, and Sierra Blanca. It is TLsited by malignant fevers yearly in summer and autumn. These are caused by stagnant ponds and marshes in the plains below, which might easily be removed. The cost of this fortress amounted to £285,000. Its situation renders it the key of the frontier. In 1794 it was cowardly sun-endered to the French by Andrfes Torres, before a single shot had been fired. On March 18, 1808, this citadel was taken by surprise by the French under General Duhesme, who introduced 200 soldiers under a false pretext. It was recap- tured on April 10, 1811, by Rovira, a doctor in theology, also bj surprise, and with a handful of men. In INIay of the same year it was retaken bj' the French General, Baraguay d'Hilliers, at the head of 4000 men. The view from the summit is extensive. For permit, apply to Senor Gobernador de la Plaza. A curious procession takes place at Figueras on the last Monday in ]\ray or the first in June. It is called Profas6 de la Tramontana, a name given to the N. wind, which is to be compared only to the Brighton easterly in violence and continuity. This procession, which dates 1612, is rather a pilgi'image to the church of N. Sta. de Requeseus, which is in the mountains close by, and lasts three da}''s. Bascara, on a hill, and close to the river Fluvia. Here it was that on March 21, 1814, King Ferdinand VII. was restored to his kingdom after his captivity at Valen9ay, and escorted hither by Suchet's army. Gerona. 65 m. from Barcelona. — Capital of the province of Gerona and part of Cataluiia. The population numbers 17,149 inhabitants. Inn: Fonda Italiana ; inditl'erent, but being improved. This town is built upon a hill, tlie slopes of which extend to the Vega, and form a ban-io called El Marcadal. The Ona crosses it, and the three-arch bridge over it is picturesque from a distance, as well as the wooden bal- conies looking upon the river, and full of flower-pots. It is a very old and quaint city, a desolate, silent place, without trade, manufactures, books, or any monument worthy of a lengthened visit, if we except the very interesting cathedral, one of the best examples of Catalonian style. It is said to have been founded by the Bracati Celts about 930 B.C., and was never important under either Goths or Arabs. The eldest sons of the kings of Aragon were styled Marquises of Gerona ; and this predilection, by making this city the habitual residence and court of those princes, caused its depopulation and ruin by the many sieges it had to undergo. In 1285 it was besieged by the king of France, Philippe le Hardi, when the garrison, being starved out, surrendered. This fact is recorded in Catalan over the gate to the S. of the city, called Puerta de la Carcel. The inscription states that the French took it not ' per forsa, mes per fam.' Cathedral of Oerona. — The ascent to this building is by a wide flight of steps, forming an imposing approach, worthy of a larger and handsomer church. The fa9adi3 is a plain wall, with a front composed of three stages that belong to the pseudo-classic style ; the whole most indifferent. In the centre of the fa9ade is a circular rose- window, with statues of Hope, Faith, and Charity. This work, with its niches, statuettes, and other details, dates 1733. Only one of the two in- tended towers exists, and is heavy and incongruous. The primitive cathedral was very ancient, and tlie Moors con- verted it into a mosque. When Ludovic BARCELONA ROUTES. 35 Pius recaptured tlie city it wa,s restored to its original use. It was so ruinous in the 11th century that Bishop Pedro Roger and his sister, the Countess Ermesinda, undertook to rebuild it at their expense, and in 1038 the new church was consecrated. This second one was pulled down also, and left no vestiges behind save the cloisters and the belfry ; the chapter resolved to re- build it at their own expense. The extremity of the edifice was begun in 1316 ; the architect is supposed to have been Enrique of Narbonne, whose name is found as maestro de obras in the ' Liber Notulorum ' (archives of the cathedral of Gerona) as far back as 1320. His successor was Jaime de Favariis, also from Narbonne. He was succeeded by Argenter, who, it is be- lieved, completed this portion of the church in 1346. At this time the original plan of prolonging the three naves was abandoned. Several of the most celebrated maestros mayores of Spain were called to a junta, and their opinion asked as to the expediency of continuing the work with one or more naves ; the plan of one single nave pro- posed by Guillelmo BoflBz was adopted, and the work completed between 1417 and 1579. The style is Gothic ; the nave is 73 ft. wide ; the arches are of an elegant ogival, with a rose-window of stained glass over each, which is novel and of pleasing effect. The lateral naves meet and blend into one behind the presby- tery, which is surrounded by pillars in shape of a semicircle, and support the cupola. The arches are pointed ; the choir is indifferent ; the high altar be- longed to the former church, dates lltli centurj', and is original as to form. The frontal is alabaster, but cannot be seen, as it is all over concealed imder a silver chapa, except in the front, which is covered with gold. In the centre are some figures of saints, and in a niche a Virgin and Child. All of it is dotted ^vith stones that shine like precious stones. There are, besides, several other figures of prophets, apostles, etc. The retablo is a mass of silver gilt, and forms three stages divided into com- partments, with figures and a relievo representation ; the lower stage has saints and two bishops at the sides ; the second, scenes from the life of Clirist ; the third, scenes from life of the Virgin. The whole is crowned with statues, silver gilt, of the Virgin, St. Narcissus, and St. Felise. Over this retablo is a baldachin or dais of silver, which rests upon four very thin pillars covered with silver also. This fine retablo is by Pedro Renes ; the balda- chin is of the 14th century. On the left of the H. Chapel, or apse, is a marble tomb of Bishop Berenguer, ob. 1408. It is Gothic, and has finely-executed niches and figures. Between the chapels of Corpus Christi and San Juan is a fine Gothic tomb, of the 14th centiiry, of the great benefactress of the cathedral. Countess Ermesinda, who was married 990 to Count Ramon Borrell 111., and was celebrated for her virtue, great beauty, and wisdom in political affairs ; ob. 1057. In the chapel of San Pablo, which is the first to the left on entering by the principal door, is another fine sepulchre of Bishop Bernado de Pau, ob. 1547. There is a great profusion of details, rendered most minutely, and divided into horizontal compart- ments, filled with nimiberless figures ; dates 15th century. Over the door of the sacristy is the tomb of Count Ramon Berenguer II., cap de estopa, vnth. his effigy upon it. It is of the end of the 14th centuiy. The cloisters are anterior to the church, and Byzan- tine ; they are large with a heavy low roof. The capitals of the pillars are very elaborately carved and deserve 36 BARCELONA — ROUTES. very careful study. The patio is in- different and weedy ; the S. door, called de los Apostoles, has slender pillars richly sculptured, and of the coarse execution characteristic of the Byzan- tine, although here and there the Gothic may be seen already dawning; the arches have the best specimen of sculpture in the cathedral ; the statues of tlie Apostles are inferior to the leaf ornamentation — date 1458. The cathe- dral was finished b)' one Pedro Costa, an R. A. of S. Fernando, ob. 1761, who also made the Grreco-Roman front of the edifice. The Sacristy has some fine church plate, and several highly interesting MSS. , richly illuminated. Tlie Colegiata de San Feliu, dating from the 14th century (see especially the southern porch), is rendered a conspicu- ous object by its remarkable western belfry tower. This is divided into three stages, the spire dating only from the 16th century, but the lower portions being perhaps 150 years older. In 1581 it was struck by lightning and seriously damaged, but has been since repaired ; the faQade of the church is of the 18th century. The general and original design of the church is Byzantine ; it consists of nave and aisles, transepts, apse and apsidal chapels ; the pillars are heavy and almost shapeless. The principal object of interest is the sepulchie of San Felice (or St. Felix). It is of the 13th century. The rclievi on it, with per- sonages in the Roman dress, represent scenes from the saint's life. There are two bassi - relievi, said to be Roman work ; one represents a lion-hunt, and the other 'Night,' with the choir of Hours, and the Graces, etc., well pre- served, but of little merit. See also the archaic and interesting church of San Pedro de los Galligans (Galli Cantio) lying a little to the N.W. of the cathedral, and close by San Feliu. It is of very early Roman- esque, with considerable portions dating back certainly to the loth century. Note especially the W. doorway, and the rose window above ; also the E. end, built partly of volcanic scoriae, and all the line of city wall of which the apse forms actually a section. In the cloisters is now placed the Museo Provincial, which con- tains some fine early sarcophagi, fragments of Roman and other early sculpture, and a number of relics of the sieges of iSo8 and 1809, when Gerona defended herself vainly against over- whelming forces of the French with deeds ot heroism and amid scenes of horror rivalling those of the great siege of Zaragoza. Look also at the now desecrated 12th century church of San Daniel (so called), close to San Pedro ; at the old houses in the cathedral plaza and the Plaza de las Coles, and at the windows of the Fonda de Espana. Leaving Gerona, the railway branches at the station of Empalme. A. One line goes to Barcelona by the sea-coast, crossing Arenys and Mataro, and is called Linea de Mataro and del Litoral ; time about 4 his. to 4^ hrs. ; three trains a-day ; fares, 1st cl., pes. 13; 2d cl., pes. 9.80; 3d cl., pes. 6. It is the pleasanter of the two, as it fol- lows the charming Mediterranean coast; the cool sea-breeze tempering the heat in summer, and the many white lateen sails and steamers gladdening the e3'e. Arenys de Mar, pronounced Arens in C!atalan {i.e. sea-sand), is a small and pretty town of some 5000 inhab., situated on the Mediterranean, at the foot of some hills clothed with trees, a7id studded with gardens, orange- groves, and gay looking torres ; above rises Arenys de Munt. Here are several linen, lace, and blonde manufactories ; and there is a considerable trade in brandies and soap, " ce luxe de la parfumerie moderne." Much of the business of the place, however, has been drawn away to the large Barcelona centre and its dependencies — Bada- lona, lans, San Martin, etc. There is good bathing in the summer ; the en- virons are pleasant, and excursions may be made to the hermitages del Cal- vario and el Remcdio. A tunnel some 600 ft. long is entered on leaving BARCELONA — llOUTES, 37 Areuys. On tlio right we see the large and new mineral establecimieuto, called ' Banos de Tito, ' excellent in diseases of the skin and rheumatism. The small river of Caldetas is traversed. To right, on a height, stands the pic- turesque Torre de los Encantados, con- sisting of some ill-kept-up fortilications. Caldetas, 631 inhab., is a pretty, clean, indifferent hamlet, with some good thermal springs ; close to it, on a height, stands the ruined castle of Kocaberti, the name of which is associated with several romanesque legends of border life and jiiratical inroads of Algerines, etc. The Llevaneras is crossed ; on a height rises the ancient castle of Nofre Aruau, now in ruins. Matard, pop. 20,600. Inns: De Fiancia ; De Monserrat. The name is derived from San Miguel de Mata ; the armorial bearings being or 4 bars gules, a hand holding a sprig (Mata), with the word R6. Tliis very thriv- ing, busy, manufacturing town is divided into two portions ; tlie older. La Ciudad Vieja, occupies a bill, and preserves its ancient character, in its gates, sombre narrow streets, etc. ; the modern part extends down to the sea, on the slo])es of that same hill, the streets being Avide, the houses loft}', clean, and many elegantly furnished, well built, and painted outside and in with dauby but effective frescoes. Visit the parish church for its silleria, and the six fine pictures by Yiladomat (chapel de los Dolores), representing Passion of Christ. ' Jesus bearing the Cross,' has been compared hy connoisseurs to Murillo's best style. Tliei'e are some others by Montana. There is a pretty theatre, an admirably well-organised * Colegio de Cataluua, ' a large and regular Plaza de la Constitucion, etc. The town vras cruelly sacked in 1808 by the Franco-Italian division under Lecclii, and it was saved fiom being set on fire liy the intercession of Don Felix Guarro, who entreated the general to spare the towTi. Had he lived in the 13th or 14th century lie would have been canonised by the militant Church, just as his city was by the triumphant French army ; as it was, the merciful conquerors managed to caiTy away some Frs. 195,000 as a souvenir. On leaving the city, the traveller sees on a hill to the right the ruins of the Moorish tower Borriach, at the foot of which is the mineral spring of Argentoua. The waters are carbonated, and most effica- cious in the treatment of nervous com- plaints. (Conveyance by tartanas, in % hr., from station of Mataro during the temporada.) All the district between this and Vilasar produces beautiful roses and strawberries, etc., which are sent to Barcelona. On leaving the station of Vilasar, and not far fi-om several Moorish atalayas or watch-towers on same hills, observe the castle of Vilasar, one of the best preserved examples of mediaeval palatial fortresses in Cataluna. The railway contimies to follow the seaboard, stud- ded with small, pretty, and thriving hamlets. On leaving Masnou, the Aleya is crossed, and a tunnel entered, some 420 ft. long. At Mongat, observe on the hill the castle of that name, which is celebrated for the heoric re- sistance of its few inhabitants in 1808 against the whole of Lectin's diA'ision, numbering eight guns of heavy calibre. The siege lasted four days — it fell at last, and all its brave inmates were cut down one after the other. One hour off stand the ruins of the Cartuja of Moutalegrc, amid wild scenery. The legend of its foundation runs thus : — Two school-fellows, who had completed their studies at Barce- lona, were coming home, when they chanced to halt in the pleasant valley of Montalegre. 'This is fine scenery, 3« BARCELONA — ROUTES. cLnd worthy of a convent. ' ' The situa- tion is fine indeed.' ' Well,' quoth the former, 'if I ever become a Pope, I shall build one here.' ' In Lhat case,' answered the other, ' I must become a monk, and live in it. ' Years and years had elapsed, when Fray Juan de Nea was sent to Rome by command of his superior, who had received an order from the Pope to that eifect. The good monk, in the act of kissing the Pontiff's foot, raised his head, and lo, the Pope, Nicolas V., was no other than his old school-fellow of Barcelona. Need we add that the convent was built, and the funds generously given by the Santo Padre ? iUfonso V. and Jiis queen embellished and aggi-andised it, and the three cloisters, paintings, library, and plate subsisted, and were celebrated until 1835, wlieu it was mostly destroyed during the civil war. The ruins — cells, garden-like cloisters and chapels-;-now partly restored and well kept, are interesting and deserving of u visit. The surrounding country, too, with its breezy undulations and wide views over the tossed -up Catalouian hill region, is beautiful in the extreme. Badalona — pop. 19,200 — theBetulo of the Romans, on the Nesos, amid a fertile plain, gardens and orange-groves. As we approach the capital the railway passes close under the citadel ; to the left is Barceloneta and the bull-ring, and we stop at the E. side of Barcelona. B. The second line passes Hostalrich and Granollers, and is called Linea del Interior and of Granollers. Distance, 61^ m. ; fares the same as by the Linea del Literal. This is the express route. Hostalrich, on the Tordera, a strongly fortified place, very pictur- esque. 3| m. westwards is Breda, from whence the ascent of Montseny is best made : a fair posada, where guides and mules may be hired for the ascent. Granollers — Province of Barcelona, capital of the Valles, population tJOOt'. A rather interesting church is liere oi 12th century, but with portions prob- ably of 14th and even 15th century, a nave of five bays ; an apse of seven sides, with a tower at the north-west angle. Observe staircase, and especially the iron hand-railing, leading to the groined gallery (late 15th century) in west bay, a charming newel staircase in the angle of the tower, a remarkable late wooden pulpit with rich woodwork, a fine pic- ture representing the martyrdom of St. Bartholomew. Branch line to Vich (pop. 13,100; fine cathedral and clois- ters ; birthplace of Balmes) and Ripoll (see p. 40 for description). In the en- virons, several excursions. Ruins of the castle of La Roca ; the Romanesque Church of San Felice de Canovellas (dist. 1 m.) ; the snowy hills of Mont- seny, and the picturesque ruins of the Santuario de San Miguel del Fay, to reach which some wild country has to be crossed. From Marseilles by several good lines — Frassinet ; Compagnie Generals Transatlantique ; Ibarra y Compania. Regular sailings, for which see adver- tisements in time-tables and news- papers, in about 22 hrs. Fares, 1st cl., 55fr. ; 2d cl., 37fr. ; 3d cl., 20fr. First and second class passengers are entitled to 100 kilog. luggage free ; children under 3 years gratis ; from 3 to 7 years old pay half - fare. Meals extra. Table dliMe breakfast and dinner at tariff prices. Private cabins if desired. From Valencia. A. By sea. By steamers (good) of the Spanish Trans- atlantic Company (formerly A. Lopez y Compania) and several other lines of steamers. Regular sailings : 16 to 20 hrs. Frequent special and direct steamers, for which see local advertise- ments. Fares, 1st class, 30 pesetas; 2d class, 20 pesetas. BARCELONA — ROUTES. 39 B. By rail. Valencia to Tarragona twice daily ; 7§ iirs. by express (1st and 2d class), 11 3^ hrs. by slow. Tar- ragona to Barcelona in 3 hrs., six times daily. Total, through from Valencia to Barcelona, 9| hrs. by express ; 14J hrs. by slow. See Valencia. From Liverpool. Frequent sailings, not recommended. From Cadiz, Malaga, Alicante, steamers of the Spanish Transatlantic Company (A. Lopez and Co. ) From Balearic Islands : from Palma twice a week, in 12 hours. Fares, 28 pesetas and 20 pesetas. From Maiorca {Port Mahon), touching at Alciulia, weekly ; fare, 40 pesetas. For coasting purposes, Tarragona to Bilbao, touching at every port, twice weekly, steamers of Ibarra y Cia., Paseo Isabel II. ; also for Cette and Marseilles every Friday. There are also direct steamers from Hamburg, South- ampton, etc., and others, stopping at intermediate ports, which have no regular days, and are advertised in the local papers. iV.jB. — For all these and several other steam services consult advertisements in daily papers and rail- way guides, as they are constantly changed. Also iuspict steamer, if possible, before securing passage, as accommodation is uncertain. Front tlie Frefick Pyremes, walking and riding. — A. Toulouse or Ax to Barcelona by Puycerda and Valley of Andorra. Toulouse to Ax. The railway is open between Toulouse and Ax : two trains daily in about 5 hours. Fares 16 fr. and 12 fr. As far as the frontier good inns and fair travelling conveniences. On the Spanish side rough acconunodation, and guides necessary. Miles. Disti tnces. Kil Toulouse to Foix 82 Tarascon . 16 Ussat , . . . 3 Les Cabannes 7 /*x 16 j At Ussat, Hotel Cassagne. From I^s Cabannes, the Pic St. Barthele'my or Pic de I Tabe, 7707 ft., which presents an admirable I panorama, may be conveniently ascended ; 6 , hrs to ascend, and 4 hrs. to return. Ruins of 1 the castle of Lordart, also worth a visit. Ax, I a small thermal establishment, 2329 ft. above the sea. Hotel : Sicre ; room and board, 6fr. I per diem. It is one of the most remarkable thermal sites in the French Pyrenees. The I scenery is extremely beautiful. The hottest I spring is 1684° Fahr. Now proceed to valley of Andorre by the Port de Salden, 16 hour*' I journey. Better to make two days, and sleep I at Canillo, 9 hrs. 30 mm. Carriage road as far I as Merens, 8 kil. 5 m. ; thence mountain path practicable for horses. The road ascends the I right bank of the Ariege, crosses the stream by j a stone bridge, and i hr. 30 min. after again I crossing, is Merens, which has 700 inhab., I and is 3560 ft. in height by a rough ascent ; i hrs. more to Hospitalet, the last French village. About 5 min. bring you to the bridge of Cerda and douane station. Here branch two roads ; that to the left crossing the Ariege, leads by Puycerda. Continue to ascend to the right ; 2J hrs. to Rochers d'Avignoles or Pourtailles, where the Ariege takes its rise. Here two gorges open ; that to the left leads, by a longer though somewhat easier road, into the valley of Andorre, over the Port de Framlgucl. Take to the right ; cross a plateau, follow the stream of the Valira, and descend into the upper valley of Andorre. The narrow gorge to the left, with forests, is the Spanish issue of Port Framiguel. Before you rises the snowy Mount Rialp ; the Port of Salden is 8202 ft. : 2J hours' descent to the wretched hamlet of Salden. Follow the course of the stream, and reach Canilio to sleep ; 600 inhab. ; belongs to Andorre ; lodg- ings. Next morning cross, on leaving, the stream of the Valira, pass by Chapel of Miri- chel, a shrine high in repute ; pass also villages of En Camp, picturesquely placed, and Las Escaldas, a thermal establishment. 3 hrs. after leaving Canillo, Andorre is reached, which is the capital of the republic. This worthy pendant of the republic of San Marino, which Napoleon is said to have spared because it was ' une curiosite politique,' extends to 25 m. to W., and 20 m. N. to S. ; population about 6000, and the army is of 600 men ; drums, flags, uniforms, etc., we should say arms, almost, are not required. The republic was first enfranchised by Charlemagne, and a charter granted by Louis le Delsonnaire. It pays a yearly tribute of 48ofr. to France, and 96ofr. to the Prince Bishop of Urgel. There are no monuments, no manufactures, no trade to speak of. The people are quiet, and occu- 40 li A IICELON A — UOU'JES. pied in pastoral or agricultural pursuits. The capital, Aiidone, has 850 inhab. From Andorre toUrgel a mule-path along the Valira, in hrs. Urgel to Puycerda along the river Segre, 25 m. in 6 hrs., whence to Barcelona. B. Ax to Barcelona by PiiycerJd.— Distance 23} m. ; time 10 hrs. mule-track. As far as Hospitalet, see above. Cross the stream by Pont de CerJa, and take to left, ascending to Col de Piqmorin by a zigzag road. After hav- ing crossed (45 min.) between a peak on left and flat-topped summit on right, traverse a plateau, and 15 min. after reach the Co/, height, 6293 ft., between Pic de Fronfride, 8380 ft to the S., and the Pic Sabarthe, 8365 ft to the N., forming the limits of the departments of Ariege and the Pyrenees Orien- tales. Close by is the douane station. De- scend into the valley of the Se'gre, 25 m. after is reached village of Porte', and ruined castle of Cardogne on opposite side of the gorge of Fondvive, at the head of which are, mountain of Lanoux, 9374 ft., and of Pedrou.x, 931 1 ft. Follow down the stream, 30 min. after reach Porta on left bank of Se'gre, 4950 ft. Here the gorge becomes very wild, a chaos of huge rocks showing conspicuous traces of glacier action. Farther down are the Tours de Carol, erected in commemoration of a victory liere gained by Charlemagne over the Moors. Cross the canal, leave on left the route to Bourg Madame, and reach Puycerda, whence to Perpignan by daily dil., 62 m. C. From Bagneres d-s Luchon, by the valleys of La Noguera, Pallareza, and of Aran. Lu- chon to Portillon ; this pass is practicable in all weather, and a guide is not indispensable ; dis- tance, I hr. 5 min. To Bosost, z hrs. (Hotel du Commerce, decent but dear), quite a Spanish town, indifferent. There are three routes from Luchon to Bosost, one by the Portillon is the shortest ; on horse or foot, 8| m., 3i to 4 hrs. ; another by La Bacanere, on foot ; the scenery is finer, fatigue greater. The third is by Pont de Roi, and St. Be'at ; good carriage-road, 25 m. A temps convert is recommended to avoid heat and dust. To Viella, i hr. from Artias; from this to Salardu, first French village, i hr. 10 min. Now reach Col de Plat de Berch. To Alos, last Fiench douane station in valley of Aneu, about 3 hrs., then Gil, 40 min. ; Gurren, 20 min. ; Isabarre, \ hr. ; Esterri de Ancu, 40 min. Of the two roads here, take the left one : to Escalo, 2 hrs. ; to Llaborsi, 2 hrs. ; sleep there. Next day, to San Juan de Lerra, and leaving to right road to Sort, pro- ceed tlirough the Col de la Besseta, then to Castellbo, then by a good mule-path to Villa- mitjana ; to Ui-gol and Barcelona there is a road from Aiii^lie les-Iiaius, distance 147J kil. Kil Amelie to Arlus .... 4 La Tech xt The Canigou, 9144 fl , may be ascended from this by way of Corsair. Prats de Mollo 7 Camprodon . igj Barcelona 105 7?i m. 147J K.B. — Pedestrians may ascend the Canigou by way of I'rats de Mollo to Vernet, 9 hrs From Vernet to Perpign.an, daily public con- veyances, price 8fr., 33J m. ; time 4 hrs. 25 m. For more details and other routes, see Joanne's ' Itineraire,' i vol. with plans and maps, lofr. ; Dr. Lambron's work, together with Mr. Packe's Guide to the Pyrenees, Longman, London, 1867, new edition with maps, diagram, and tables. For ascensions in this part of the Pyrenees, we very warmly recommend Comte H. Russell Killough's special work on the sub- ject, ' Les Grandcs Ascensions,' with 12 maps, i vol. 4fr. Also for other Pyrenean routes from France into Spain, see Znyagoza, ''A ragon.^ From Ca»iprodon and I'ich. — CamfiroJon, 4000 inhab., on left bank of the Riutort, most uninteresting ; dil. to San J uan de las Abadesas, which is close to an important coal mine, one hr.'s distance, of 11 kil. e.xtent. RipoU to Puycerda, a very bad carretera road. The gorge called Las Cobas de Ribas is very imposing. RipoU. — 1200 inhab. — at the confluence of the Ter and Fresser. During the civil war this city was entirely burnt up, and is being slowly rebuilt again. See the ruins of a magnificent Benedictine monastery founded by Count Wifred El Velloso, which became the Escorial or burial-house of the Counts of Barcelona. The capitals of columns are most elaborately worked out with human and allegorical heads ; the central nave is of 9th and loth century, the transept and apse of the nth. Vich. — Inn : Fonda de la Plaza, fair. 13,100 inhab., Bishop's See : the plains around are watered by the Ter, and from them the Mon- seny and Pyrenees may be seen. Vich, the Ro- man .\usa, and Gothic Ausona, became Vicus- Ausone, and was under the exclusive jurisdic- tion of the Bishop, though the ui)per portion belonged to the Moncada family. It finally be- came the property of the crown, under Jaime II., about 1450. The streets are narrow and ill-paved ; the only interesting sight here is thr cathedral, which was built about 1040, but re- paired and modernised about the end of the i8th centurj' ; who the architect w.as is not known. We only know that in 1325, the maostr/ inayo. BARCELONA. 41 was Ramun Desping. and in 1333 one Lademosa The outside is very indifferent ; the interior is divided into three naves, which are bold and elegant. The transept is formed by loftj' pillars, somewhat thin ; the Gothic cloisters are of the richest and most elegant character. They were completed in 1340. Most of the former sepul- chres disappeared when the cathedral was re- paired, and then also were blocked up the sub- terraneous chapels, amongst which was the celebrated Capilla de San Nicolas, where the matutine or popular masses were celebrated, in the beginning of the 14th centurj', on the festival of St. Stephen, and the epistle of his martyrdom was sung in Limousin of the 13th century. The Capilla del Santo Espiritu is a fine building, and dates 13441351. In the ar- chivo and library are kept a Bible of the 13th century, very richly illuminated, the poem of Dande de Prades, and a curious book on Cetreria. In the centre of the cloisters observe the fine monument to the Catalan philosopher lialmes. Some quaint old houses in the Plaza Mayor. Granollers, capital of the Valles, 7000 inhab., is uninteresting: church of the 12th centurj-. In the vicinity are the celebrated springs of Caldas (liot springs) de Monbuy (see Mineral Establishments, General Information). From Puycetdd and Urgel. — Puycerdii, ! 2500 inhab., 1242 metres (40S5 ft.) high ; a very wretched, dirty village, with an indifferent church of Sta. Barbara. From this to Urgel by a mule-path ; excellent trout-fishing and shooting. Go to Bellver by a carriageable road. Bellver, 1919 inhab., ruins of a mediaeval castle ; magnificent and extensive views are obtained from the town, whence its graphic name. Then through a defile to Puente de Var, after crossing Martinet ; then by the right bank of the Segre to Urgel. U7-gel, or Seu (see of Urgel), is a bishop's see, 3000 inhab. The cathedral is indifferent ; the cloisters of 13th century. Two m. W. are the three forts which defend the city, the Cit.Tdel, the Castillo, and the Torra de Solsona. Proceed to Solsona, 2671 inhab. Cardona, 4366 inhab., close to river Cardoner. Its Castillo is very strongly built, and situated N.E. Dil. for and from Puycerda two a week. From Cardona to Manresa, and then by rail to Barcelona in 2 hrs., five trains a day : line from Zaragoza to Barce- lona. There is a second road from and to Vich. \'ich to Granollers by rail. Frmn or to Martorell. — By tail ; dis- tance, 33 kil. ; time, about 1 lir. ; fares from 14r. 82c. to 9r. 35c. Six traiua per day, and one more on holidays. (For subsequent descrip. see p. 473.) BARCELONA. Population, 312,000. hours) ; Paris, 24 nours ; Pamplona, 339 miles (14 hoLirs). the Capital of Province of same name. ^ ^^^,^^0.^.^^, ^i^.v Distances — Madrid, 440 miles (i3 hours); Paris, 24 n Connected by rail with all the principal towns on the coast. Steamers to various Mediterranean ports, including the Balearic Islands. Railway Stations, &c. — For the French line, direct line to Madrid and Valencia line, the Central Station behind the Plaza del Palacio ; for Zaragoza and Pamplona, Calle de Villa- nueva ; for Sarria, Plaza de Cataluna ; Omnibuses, 2r. per person; Ir. to 4r. each parcel, according to size and weight, a tariff; porters (called faquines) carry luggage to or from hotels for 5r., a tariff also ; to boatmen, 2r. per person, 2r. per parcel ; to load or un- load, 2r. a parcel. Settle price before- hand, or ask for tariflf. Hotels. — Grand Hotel (formerly Dc las Cv.olro Naciones), excellently situ- ated on the Kambla del Centro. First class ; good taUe-d'ho'.e at separate tables ; lift ; good sanitar}' arrange- ments ; reading-room, with Continental and English papers ; guides ; sleeping- car agency. Pension from pes. 12.50 upwards. Central y Falcon, close by, same proprietor ; also recommended ; cheaper. Continental and Grand Hotel de Inglatcrra, both on the Plaza de Cataluna, and good, but not many good rooms. Pension from pes. 10. Oriente, Peninsular, and Espaila, good Spanish hotels, with Spanish cuisine. Several good Casas de Huespedes and lodgings : the best, Ranzini's, No. 6 Dormitorio San Francisco and Paseo de Colon ; Mrs. De Bergue's, Eambla Cataluna, 123, and a lodging-house at No. 4 Calle Union, with view upon the Rambla. 42 BARCELONA. Post Office.— Calle de Buen Suceso, off the Ramhla ; open from 8 a.m. to 4 P.M., and again for an uncertain time at 8 P.M. Passports asked for. Ltetteis can also be posted at all cstancos. Three collections and de- liveries daily. English letters delivered at noon, and must be posted before 3 o'clock. Two days' post to London. Telegraph Office. — Ronda San Pedro and Plaza del Teatro, 1. Telephone Office.— Calle Ziirbauo, oti' the Plaza Eeal, for Madrid and ail coast lines, Valencia, etc. Same price as telegrams. History. — Barcelona is said by the learned to have been founded by the Carthaginian Ilamilcar, surnamed Barca ifuhnen Latine), a common family name with the Carthaginians, according to Niebuhr, Hceren, etc., about the year 237 B.C., according to Romey. Ctesar Augustus raised it to a ' colonia, ' with the names of Julia Augusta, Pia, Fa- ventia, etc. Its importance now daily increased, and there are many vestiges, such as slabs, fragments of altars, col- umns, etc., of that time, whicli are .so many evidences of its prosperity under the Romans. Ataulfo, the first king of the Goths, chose it as his court, and made it the capital of Hispana-Gothia, sub- sequently called Septuuania. Shortly after 713, Barcelona fell into the hands of Abdul-Aziz. The Moors did not retain it long ; for Charlemagne, on the death of his father, thought the oppor- tunity a favourable one to extend his dominions, and with the pretext of coming in aid to his Christian bretlu'en, he and his son Ludovic expelled the iuGdel in 801, who had ruled for 88 years only, and then quietly added the city he had come to free to his duchy of Aquitaine, of which it became the head. 'Dios me libre de mis amigos, que yo me librare de mis enemigos.' Barcelona was now governed by counts, who in B>H became hereditary, when Charles the Bold made it an independ- ent kingdom in favour of and to reward Count Wilfred el Velloso, who had so effectually aided Jiim against the Nor- mans. One of its greatest counts, Ramon Berenguer IV. (12th century), united the crowns of Cataluua to Aragon by marriage with Petronila, the heiress to this latter kingdom. In his reign, Barcelona became the emporium of Southern Europe, and the capital of the most powerfid of maritime nations. Dockyards, arsenals, and warehouses, were numerous, and on a grand scale, for the trade, especially with the Levant, was very great ; and Barcelona was the rival of Genoa and Venice. It became part of the kingdom when Ferdinand of Aragon espoused Isabella of Castile. Ahvays more or less ill-disposed, but more especially since Philip III., Cata- luua has often eudeavom-ed to regain her former independence, and gave her interest and money at one time to the French, at another to the Spaniard, whichever held out the better prospect of attaining that end. The principado has been always a focus of revolution, democracy, and pronunciamientos. Barcelona, in the middle ages, waa thronged with proven 9al troubadors 'de la gaye sciense, ' and councillors and statesmen who framed the laws of the ' Consulado del Mar, ' a commercial code which dates 1279, and was re- spected and imitated everyAvhere. With reference to this, see ' le Codigo Je his Costumbres Maritim.as de Barcelona,' etc., in Spanish and the original Limousin, by Cap- maiii y Monpalau ; Madrid 1791, 2 vols, in 410 ; and about the early trade and navy, see ' Memorias historicas sobre la Marina, Co- mercio,' etc., of Barcelona by same author ; Madrid, Sancha, 1779, 4 vols, in 410, one of the most import.int works ever published on trade and navy in the middle ages. D. Victor Balag- ner's 'Historia de Cataluna,' of which a new edition has been published in 1888, should also be consulted. BARCELONA, 43 Mauy and imiiortaiit armadas, some numbering 200 sail, 80 and more large galleys were often equipped here. Ara- gon (when comprising Cataluua) was very proud, and justly so, of its pie- eminence on the sea ; and such was the jealousy felt at Barcelona wlieu the rival Castile had lent its aid, money, and fleet to Columbus, that though it was here that he was received by the Catholic kings, to whom he had given a world, witli all 'the pomp aud circum- stance ' so brilliantly described by W. Irving, there is no notice of such an event to be found either in the archives of the city or those of Aragon. The Dktaria of 1492 is likewise disdainfully silent on this point. (See Major's 'Select Letters of Christ. Columbus,' Hackluyt So3. 1857. Barcelona was at an early period a centre of learning, and one of the first cities of Spain where printing was introduced, and some of the best publishers, especi- ally of illustrated and artistic works, Catalan and Spani.sh, are still to be found here. [The bibliophile should not neglect to secure their catalogues and visit their establish- ments.] Here, also, January 17, 1543, a ship of 200 tons was launched, which was made to move by means of steam. Its inventor was Blasco de Garay, and the experiment took place ill the presence of a committee named by Charles V. and Philip II. (The memoir which contains these and other details is at Simaucas. ) The invention consisted of a large boiler, which moved by steam two wheels placed at the sides of the ves.sel. The experiment seems to have answered, but the trial was discoiu'aged by the king's treasurer, Kavago, who was, for some personal motive, hostile to the inventor, and drew up a leport in v/hich he states that the speed did not exceed two leagues in three hours, that the machiueiy was too compliiated, and the boiler likely to burst. Charles V., who was tlien absorbed in political schemes of greater moment, did not examine the thing with attention, but paid Garay all expenses, and gave him promotion and a present of 200,000 nuiravedis. But he was discouraged, and the secret, whatever it was, died with him. Andrea Navagero, Venetian ambassador to Charles V., speiJcs thus of this city, which he visited in 1526 : ' E bellissima citt;\ ed m belli.ssimo sito ; ed ha gran copia di giardini beiissimi, di mirti, aranci, e cedri ; le case buone e comode, fabbricate di pietra, e non di terra, come nel resto di Catalogna. ' General Description. — Barcelona is now the largest city in Spain, aud the first in a commercial view. It is most prosperous and improving, and although called the Manchester of Span- ish Lancashire (Catahma), it is free from the usual annoyances and appear- ances characteristic of manufacturing towns. The mills (cotton, silk, and woollen) are situated at some distance outside the walls, and the sons of toil, waggoners, wharfingers, and the sea- faring population, are confined within, the suburbs. The happy situation ot the city on the shores of the Mediter- ranean, and communicating at the same time with the Atlantic ports by railway; its vicinity to France and Italy ; the facilities of living, the climate mild in winter and agreeable at all seasons ; the enlightened, kind, and bold-hearted, enterprising people who are seen in so thriving a condition, are all so many inducements for the invalid and general tourist to linger liere. We must add the no less important advan- tages of which other medical stations, such as Malaga, Alicante, etc., are de- prived, viz., several well-organised libra- ries, and collections of natural history and antiijuities, a first-rate opera-house, 44 BARCELONA. and a variety of excursions in tlie envi- rons. Of soeiet}', whicli is after iill tlie least interesting feature in a country, there is little, though the Barcelonese are passionately fond of music, dancing, and dress. On the other hand, mere sight-seers must remain comparatively idle here, as most of this handsome citj' has been either modernised or en- tirel)' rebuilt, saving the tortuous and narrow but picturesque quarters in- habited by the lower classes ; and besides tlie cathedral and one or two other churches (which are certainly in- teresting examples of Catalonian- Gothic architecture), there are few ob- jects that deserve the attention of the artist. On quitting Barcelona, July 1844, Washington Irving gave liis opinion of the city thus : — ' 1 leave this beautiful city with regret. . . . Indeed, one enjoys the very poetry of existence in these soft southern climates which border the Mediterranean. All here is picture and romance. Nothing has given me greater delight than occa- sional evening drives with some of my diplomatic colleagues to those country- seats, or torres, as they are called, situ- ated on the slopes of the hills, two or three miles from the city, surrounded by groves of oranges, citrons, figs, po- megi-anates, etc., with terraced gardens gay with flowers and fountains. Here we would sit on the lofty terraces over- looking the rich and varied plain, the distant city gilded by the setting sun, and the blue sea beyond. Nothing can be purer and softer and sweeter than the evening air inhaled in these favoured retreats.' Cervantes, who knew every town in Spain, and was a gi-eat traveller for his day, describes it enthusiastically as the ' flor de las bellas ciudades del mundo, honra de Espana, regalo y de- licia de sus moradores y satisfaccion de todo aquello que de una grande, famosa, rica y bien fundada ciudad pnede pedii un discreto y curioso deseo.' Climate. — Though sheltered on the western side by the high hill of Mont- juich, Barcelona is somewhat exposed to the north and east M'inds. The tem- perature is very mild ; it snows very seldom ; the heat in summer seldom ex- ceeds 31° Cent. (87 Fahr.), or falls be- low 2° under zero (28 Fahr). The average of rainy daj^s in the year is 69, The climate is sufficiently dry, with occasional fogs however ; it is not so bracing as Tarragona, but almost en- tirely free from cold winds. The most prevalent diseases are catarrhal, rheumatic, dyspeptic, and nervous affeclious. January is about the only month to avoid, especially in bronchial complaints. Barcelona is lat. 41° 22' 58"N., long. 2° 8' 1 1" E. The orange and palm gi'ow very well. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF BARCELONA. Centigrade Thermometer . Temperature of Air. -Aver- age. Maxi- Mini- mum, mum. Oscil. December January February . March . April . . ISIay June ■ . July . . August .September October November 10.4 16.7 2.8 10.6 16.1 4-4 11. 1 ll.O 6.7 12.7 .7.8 7.8 14.1 i«.3 9-4 17.6 239 9-4 21.6 27.2 150 24.1 28.3 19.4 25.9 31.0 22.0 22.1 29.0 IS-b 19-5 24.5 10.8 >3-7 2C.O 8.0 13.9 11.7 8.3 1 0.0 8.9 14s 12.2 8.9 9.0 I3-4 »3-7 12.0 Average pressure of atmosphere . 760.59 ,, temperature of year . . 16.9 Maximum temperature, August 10 31.0 Minimum temperature, December 2.8 1 Winds in year: — W. 96 days; E. 51 ; S.E. 49; S.W. 40; N.38; N.E. 37; N.W.34; I S. 24. ^1 BARCELONA. 45 Streets, Squares, etc. — The prin- idpal streets are very well pared, wide, and long, such as Calle de Fernando, which is the handsomest, and where there are some Parisian -looking shops ; Calle Ancha, which runs parallel with the Muralla del Mar ; the Ramhla, which is a fine broad boulevard, with trees and a promenade in the centre, and receives different names to designate portions of it, such as Rambla del C'entro, de los Capuchinos, etc. It is 1120 metres (1100 yards) long, and runs in a straight line to the sea. It is a constant pro- menade, especially towards tlie evening ; and here the best hotels, theatres, dili- gence offices, etc., are situated. Calle de la Plateria is the locale of the silver- smiths, in whose shops amateurs of vertii now and then pick up a fine speci- men of silversmith-work of former times. See also the earrings worn by the payesas or country-women, of antique form. The principal sqiuxres are — Plaza de Palacio, with a Carara marble fountain in the centre, representing the genii of the four provinces of Cataluna, with attributes, flowers, etc., executed by Italian artists. A winged genius crowns the monument, on the principal front of which is the escutcheon of the Marquis of Campo-Sagrado, formerly Capt. -General of Cataluna, with the proud motto of his family, ' Despues de Dios la Casa de Quiros.' Plaza Real, surrounded by liandsome new houses with arcades, in imitation of the Palais Royal in Paris, with a fountain in the centre and a group of the three Graces. [N.B. — This square forms a pleasant and sheltered promenade on either wet or hot days, and is close to the two chief hotels.] Plaza del Teatro, close to the Grand Hotel, and one of the busiest spots of the city. In the centre is a statue to Federico Soler, replacing the old 'Font del Veil,' an ancient and allegorical fountain. In Plaza de Medinaceli there is a paltry statue raised in 1851 to Galceran Mar quet, one of the gi-eatest seamen Cata- luna has produced. The obelisk in Plaza de San Pedro dates 1672, and the statue is of Sta. Eulalia, the tutelar of Bar- celona. Fortress. — From its situation and importance, Barcelona has been very strongly fortified. On the S. side are the Atarazanas near Monjuich. The Atarazauas were built by .Taime el Conquistador, 1213, as arsenals for the navy, and extended formerly to Plaza de Palacio. The name Arabice means dockyards, whence the Catalan dressana and the Spanish darsena. These could hold already, in the time of James II., 25 large galleys imder shelter and se- cure. A large galley used to cost then (14th century) about 23,780r., and the yearly expense (seamen, rigging, etc.) about 18,120r. Now the Atarazanas comprise infantrj* and cavalry barracks (7000 men in all). Its construction, though ancient, is interesting. The citadel was begun in 1715, and designed by Philip V. 's minister, Olivares, to have command over the city. It has long been a simple cuartcl, and is now in process of demolition. The Fuerte de Carlos and Fuerte Pio were destined to cut communications between Barcelona and the countiy and attacks by the old French road. The Castle of Monjuich, S. of the town, is placed on an isolated hill about 735 ft. above the level of the sea. It is of iiTegular form, witli a rcduit composed of four fronts, to the sea, and port, and to the country. This is truly the most important fortification, and he who holds it holds the whole city in check and in his power, for from its great elevation and proximity the curved fires (the direct ones woiild not be so certain) could destroy the city. The name is said by some to mean 46 RARCET.ONA. Mons .Tovis, from a temple raised to Jupiter on that hill, and by others Hill of the Jews, whose cemetery was for- merly situated between the hill and the city. Wlien the Archduke, Charles of Austria, who claimed from Philip V. the Spanish crown, landed close by Badalona (Sept. 1705), Lord Peter- boi'ou;;h attacked Monjuich, and, bj' a daring surprise, took it on the 14th of that same month, obliging the Spanish general Velasco to abandon Barcelona. In the Peninsular war it was taken by Duhesme, by a stratagem not unlike that used towards Pamplona (1808), and surrendered to Marshal Moncey by Mina in 1823. The Port. — The port has been, and continues to be, yearly improved. It is large, commodious ; but the bar at the entrance is not without danger, and the assistance of pilots is deemed neces- sary to enter or go out. The harbour is formed by a mole of considerable length, with a lighthouse and some batteries. On one side, E., extends the well-peopled barrio or quartiei' called Barceloneta, and on the opposite is the fort of Atarazanas, and the quays called Muralla del Mar. In the 14th and ir)tli centuries, when the port was always crowded with fleets of merchant- men, the entrance was not above 8| ft. deep, and the sandbanks or bar called tasca (atascnr, from stancare) was a great natural defen^^e. Though granted in 1438 by Alfonso V. of Aragon, the works for the mole did not begin before the 20th September 1474, after the de- signs and under the direction of an engineer from Alexandria, called Itacio; but this mole was a very imperfect work, and even after several augmentations and much expense, it was, we read in Capmany, about 600 feet long in the end of 17th century ; though in the accu- rate 'Life of the Duke of Osuna,' wTitten in Italian by Leti, Amsterdam, 1700, 400 only. The works were re newed in 1753, and completed in 1754. Several additions have been but re- eentlj' finished. The depth of water within the outer mole is from 25 to 30 ft. Vessels drawing 20 ft. moor alongside the mole ; larger ships in the outer port. The Trade is brisk, and the railw.ays, which now centre in Barcelona, will increase it. The principal imports are raw cotton and colonial products, prin- cipally from Cuba and Puerto Rico ; iron, machinery, coal, from England. Cataluna is the greatest manufacturing centre in Spain, and principal seat ol the cotton trade, in which over 100,000 persons are engaged. The exports are wrought silks, cotton stuffs, soap, chemicals, firearms, paper, etc., al- monds, nuts, etc. The annual number of ships of all nations entering and leaving the port is about 4500, with a tonnage of about 1,700,000. See for more details, 'Revistade Estadistica, ' the Catalonian one as well as that pub- lished at Madrid ; also the Consular aud Commercial Reports published yearly in England. A very fine new Custom House (Aduana) is now (1898) being constructed in front of the old Atarazana barracks ; and a Clarke and Stansfield dry-dock is also about to be opened. Barcelona has ever been a fierce opponent of Free Trade, of which Bilbao is the Spanish champion. Sights.— The Cathedral ; the 'Sa- grada Familia ' ; Churches ; Lonja ; Casa de la Diputacion, etc. ; Univer- sity; Public Gardens ; old houses and antiquities. The Cathedral— (la Sen or Seo).— The old cathedral of Barcelona was con- verted by the Moors into a mosque, and {)artly rebuilt and augmented by Count Ramon Berenguer I. But as the im- portance of the city grew with the BARCELONA CATHEDRAT-. 47 establishment of the Court of Aragon, James II., in 1298, laid the first stone of a new cathedral, which was finished in 1448. Style.— The style is Gothic, or what we should more appropriately call Catalonian, and it exhibits the characteristics of the first and latter period of that style in Spain. It is sober, elegant, harmonious, and simple ; not crowded with sculpturing and orna- mentation, as was the case at the close of the 1 4th century, and it mostly be- longs to the best and purest period of ogival architecture. There are portions left unfinished, and others — some of the lateral chapels, e.g. of poor modern work ; but upon the whole few cathedral churches in Spain better repay careful study. Exterior. — It is approached, as is usual in Cataluna, by an elevated flight of steps, which renders the edifice more effective. The principal, western facade has lately been completed by a local benefactor, in very poor late Gothic style, which, besides destroying some valuable glass, harmonises ill with the fine old cathedral, and speaks volumes for the Catalan taste of the day and the powers of local architects. The c?oor lead- ing to the cloister from Calle del Obispo is B3'zantine, as is the small belfry, the bell of which is the oldest in Barcelona The helfry towers are very lofty, and date end of 1 4th century. The present clock is comparatively modern, but the former one was the oldfst known in Spain, dated 1393, and therefore older than that at Seville. (Capmany, 'Mem. Hist.,' book iv.) At each side of the Portal de la Zaquisicion is a slab with inscription containing the date May 1298, when the cathedral was begun, and the other the continuance or prose- cution of the works in 1329. Over the portal there is a relievo, representing, though most rudely rendered, the le- gendary fight between Vilardell and the Dragon. This monster was let loose by the Moors, when this hero was obliged to abandon to them his castle in the Vales. God appearing to him under the garb of a pauper, tried first his charity, and being satisfied, gave him a mii-acu- lous sword, which cleft rocks and the thickest trees. He then met the dragon and killed him, upon which, as he was more of a huntsman than a pious gentle- man, he gave vent to his joy, and exclaimed, ' Well done, mighty sword, and not less mighty arm of Vilardell ! ' Just then he felt on his arm some drops from the dragon's blood which dripped from the blade he held up in exultation ; and as it was the subtlest poison he died instantly. God thus ' castigando su vanagloria. The name of the architect who de- signed the cathedral is not ascertained. The Mallorquin Jaime Fabre (1317) is known to have directed the works in the beginning. In 1388, the Maestro Roque succeeded him. Escuder (middle of 15th century) is the last architect mentioned in the archives. The cathe- dral was first named Sta. Cruz, to which the name of Sta. Eulalia was added when this saint's body was brought to this church. Interior. — The plan is cruciform. The church, though exclusively Catalan as to details, is not Spanish in plan, but approaches rather the French an-ange- ment of an aisle and chapels round the apse, so that nothing impedes the vista eastwards. It is divided into three spa- cious naves, formed by somewhat mas- sive pillars, with elegant shafts semi- attached and topped by elaborately- worked capitals, from which nineteen arches spring to form a vaulted roof. The 2)resbytery is surrounded by ten columns of a good style. The portion between the choir and the principal entrance dates 1420 ; but some authors are ol opinion that it is of 1329. Observe the 18 BARCELONA — CATHEDRAL. bold and etl'ective arch which rests upon che two first piers, and the open-work clerestory or balustrade over the portal and its lateral chapels. Under the high altar is a crypt called Capilla and Sepulcro de Sla. Eulalia, It is not alwaj-s shown to visitors, and is not remarkable. It was built and completed 1338, by Fabre, and the body of the saint removed in following year from the church of Sta. ilaria del jMar, where it had been kept since 878. The general plan and design are like that of the sepulchre of SS. Peter and Paul in the Vatican. The urn is of alabaster, with many mezzi-relievi re- presenting scenes from the life of the saint. It is lighted up by lamps, which burn without intermission. ' The plan- ning of the nave,' says Street, ' is vpry peculiar. The chapels in the south aisle have a row of other chapels, which open into the cloister, placed back to back with them, and the windows which light the former open into the latter, showing, when seen from the nave cha- pels, their glass ; and when seen from the cloister chapels, the dark piercings of their openings. The arrangement is extremely picturesque. ' The transepts show themselves only on the ground- plan, where they form porches. Turning westwards, and noting the huge head dangling from the organ, which represents the conquest of the Saracens by the Spaniards, attention is arrested upon entering the choir by a massive facistol upon and around which are ranged some of the finest choir-books in the Peninsula, dating mostly from the 12th and 13th centuries. One of these, the set of Christmas antiphons known as ' O,' should be specially examined, for the sake of its exquisite initial illuminations. Large sums of money have been offered for this splendid work, but in vain. The Choir is of good proportions, and deserves attention. The canopies of the stalls of the upper row are by the German sculptors, Michael Loker and Johan Friedi-ich (1487). Tl;c work is most excellent. The pinnacles and canopies were pronounced faulty by the chapter, who did not pay the sculptor the full amount agreed upon. The lower row was sculptured by Matias Bonafe, 1483. In the agreement passed between him and the chapter, a curious clause occurs, by which the sculptor was forbidden to introduce images, figures, or beasts of any kind, and to limit himself to the leaf ornamentation. The x)ulpit is rich, but indifferent. The staircase leading to it, with its arched doorway, traceried handrail, and open iron-work door, should be carefully noticed. On the back of each stall is the painted shield of each of the knights of the Golden Fleece, who held in this choir a general assembly or chapter, presided over by Charles V., March 5, 1519. This was a grand scene, fit for a painter to take up. The walls were hung with rich tapestries and velvets. On one side rose the vacant throne, canopied with black velvet hangings of Ma.ximilian I. On the opposite side, on one of brocade, sat Charles V. , then only king of Spain, and around him Christian King of Denmark, Sigismund King of Poland, the Prince of Orange, Duke of Alba, of Frias, Cruz, and the flower of the nobility of Spain and Flanders. Kings, on entering Barcelona for the first time, were obliged to take the oath to defend and never transgress the popular laws (fueros) of Barcelona ; the councils (Jura) used to take place in different parts of the city, and before the High Altar in this cathedral. When Charles V., in 1519, visited the city, he wished to be received, not as a king, but as one of the former counts ; ' for,' said he, * I would rather be count of Barcelona than king of the Komans. ' Several councils have taken place here. On June 20, 1525, Francis I. of France, then a prisoner, heard mass in the chapel of Sta. Eulalia. BARCELONA — CA1HKDKAL. i'J The Trascoro is a good specimeu of the Revival in Spain, and the work oi' Pedro Vilar of Zaragoza, who followed tlie designs of Bartolonie Ordauo, date 1564. It is composed of a series of bassi-relievi representing scenes from the life of Sta. Eulalia, on white marble, and with columns of the Doric order. The tombs in the cathedral are mostly indifferent. Close to the sacristy are those of Berenguer el ^'iejo and Almodis his wife ; the inscriptions are modern. In a chapel, close to that of San Olagiier, is an elegant tomb of Doiia Sancha de Cabrera, Senora de Novalles ; a finer one is that of Bishop Escalas, in the Chapel dc los Innocents, very elaborately I sculptured, the details of dress, beard, hair, etc., being very delicate — Gothic. That of SanOlegnrio, whose body eight centuries have not been able to decom- l)Ose, is inditlerent ; his body may be easily seen, dressed in 2)07itijicalibus, from the camarin of the altar. The stained windoics are amongst the finest in Spain, and date between 1418 and 1560. They are not of large size, but the richness of their blues, purples, and reds, is as fresh as when first they were painted. The chapels are indif- ferent, mostly churrigueresque. See behind the apse (which is itself one of the best things in the cathedral) the crucifix called Cristo de Lepanto. It was carried on the prow of the flagship of D. Juan of Austria, at the battle of Lepanto. It is violently inclined, be- cause as the Moors directed their mus- ketry against the sacred image, the image turned aside, and thus avoided the infidels' bullets. The ultra faithful believe that the small galley placed here also moves and turns according to tlie wind ! Amongst the curiosities {curio- sidades), see an infant Jesus, to which Ferdinand VII. gave the insignia of fleld-mai'shal, and his queen, Anielie of Saxony, the badge of ilaria Lui.sa. The reliquaries are fine. The 'paintings, few and of no great merit, are — in Capilla de San Olegario, some pictures by Ant. Viladomat (1678 to 1755); the rest in this chapel also, and in that of San Pablo and San ilarcos, are by Fran Tramullas of Perpignan, who lived in tlie 18th century, and his son Manuel. The cloisters are interesting ; they were begun by Roque. In 1432, Gual suc- ceeded him, and they were finished in 1448; they were principally the work of Bishop Sapera. Observe the elegant ogival door on the Calle del Obispo, the first door to left, and Capilla de Sta. Lucia ; this portion is the oldest in the whole edifice. The tombs are indif- ferent. Notice, nevertheless, that of Mossen (abbr. for Mossenyer, or ilon- senj'or, my lord) Borra, the nom de guerra of Antonio Tallander, the buffoon of Alfonso V. el Sabio of Aragon, ob. about 1433; see his jocose epitaph, calling him Milesgloriosus, and the bells on his dress. In the chapel of La Concepcion there used to be a picture ordered by the municipality (1651) to be painted in tlianksgiving for her intercession in he- half of the city at the time of the plague. It ceased some da3-s after, and the keys of the city, made in silver for the occa- sion, were presented to her. See the fountain de las Ocas (of the Geese). It stands in the centre of a pleasant court full of orange-trees and flowers. The Bishop's Palace, on the S. side of the cloister, retains portions of good late Romanesque arcading. Church of Sta. Maria del Mar. — This church is preferred by some to the cathedral in an architectural light. It was built on or near the site formerly occupied by a smaller chm-ch raised, A.D. 1000, by Bishop Accio, to keep the body of St. Eulalia (now in cathedral). It was begun in ilarch 1329, and is one of the few churches built entirely at the ex- pense of the working-classes, the bas- E 50 1;A1IC£Lo-XA — CU L KClLLS- teixQS or fdiqnmtsi ercu coutribntiiig to it — tiie latter fact being recoided on the door of the principal facade, where there are sculptured two anall bronze figures earrying stone, wood, etc The name of the architect is not known. In 1379, a gnaat fire burnt up the restry, altar, choir, and portion of the roof, but by the aid of Pedro IV. el Ceremonioso, the church was repaired and completed, XoT. 9, laS-S. The style is Gothic, with a few churrigneresqne alterations in the chapels, etc. The church is situ- ated in a square ; the principal facade is plain but el^ant, with statues on the sides and over the door. The rose- window is rery fine, and was repaired after it had been almost destroyed by an earthquake in 1428. The church is divided into three naves, the piers and shafts are very lofty and elegant, the arches sharply pointed ; the high altar, though it has cost 100,000 ducats, is in bad taste and out of keeping with the rest ; it dates 1637. The rhoir, by a too rare exception, is happily placed behind the presbyter}-. The royal j^ew, in the south aisle, was formerly, when Sta. Maria was a royal chapel, connected by a covered way with the i>alace in the adjoining Plaza Palacio. This was destroyed in 1835 by the populace upon the occasion of Greneral Bassa's assassination. The general style of the church is very good and pure, the painted glass fine. There are five pictures by VUadomat, representing scenes from the Passion, behind the altar, and two others in chapel de San Salvador; four pic- tures by Traniullas (son), in chapel de los Cvrrcdores de C'amlio; a St. Peter, by Juan Amau of Barcelona (1595-1693), in chajiel of St. Peter ; a good statue of San Alejo, in the Trascoro, by A. Pujol of A'illafranca, about 1643. The Virgin and Christ Dead, in same portion, is by Miguel Sala (1627-1704). The sculpture on the ori'an is of 1560. Sta. Maria del Pino, a fine sp>eci men of the Gothic, dates 1 3-29-1 41 3. It is also called X. Sra. de los Reyes. The name, del Pi, or Pino, pine, is derived from a tradition, according to which an image of the Virgin was found in a trunk of a pine, some say because the pine v= the emblem of the Catholic faith, ever- green, ever soaring to heaven ; accord- ingly a pine, blessed on Palm Sunday, is every year placed on the highest point of the belfry. It is also said that one of these trees was planted close to it in 1 768, and cut down in 1802. The church is of gool proportions and elegant. The belfry -tower is fine, massive, and very lofty. The nave consists of seven bays, is 54 ft- ^vide in the clear, and has an eastern apse of seven sides, is high and spacious, and lighted up by good ogival windows with stained glass. On the altars of _ the chapels of San Pancracio and San Clemente, Jews had a right to take an oath in any suit with a Chris- tian, validity of wills, etc. The jjiin- cipal portal is very rich. The relics are curious and kept in silver cases, and rich reliquaries ; amongst them are two thorns from the crown of Jesus, once at St Denis ; a portion of Christ's gar- ment ; a bit from the pillar agiiinst which He was scourged, etc. etc Be- tween the third and fourth altar, to the right, a tablet on the wall marks the spot where the Barcelonese painter, Viladomat, is buried — ob. 1755. The Church of the Immaculate Conception in the Calles Aragon and Lauria was originally part of the old monastery of Junqueras in Barcelona city, and dates from 1210 a.d. It was pulled down in 1S69, and trans- ferred, stone by stone, to the present site. The cloisters and the beautiful carving of the new chaj^l of the Blessed Sacrament well repay a visit ; and the church has a small collection of relics and antiquities. BARCELONA — PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 51 Los Martires, or San Justo y San Pastor, the earliest Christian Church in I'arcelona, is a good specimen of Gothic ; one nave lofty and wide ; good stained glass ; begun in 1345. A poor fagade and a pretty tower on one side. The altar of San Felio had the privilege of serving for the oath taken by Jews on the decalogue placed upon it, also for witnesses of wills made at sea or battle, etc., and of knights before engaging in a ' battala juzgada,' not to use any but fair means, and swords neither constellated nor ench.inted, etc. Five bays ; an apse of five sides. The nave is 43 ft. 6 in. in width in the clear, by some 130 in length. The vaulting quadripartite, with large bosses at the intersection of the ribs, on which are carved subjects from the New Testament. A fine but undersized High Altar. In the Church of Montesion (14th century) is the flag (festum) of D. Juan de Austria and the image of our Lady of Victory, both carried by horse at the battle of Lepanto. In Santa Ana (1146) is the tomb of Miguel de Boera, who fought at Ravenna under the Catholic king's reign, and commanded Charles V.'s galleys at the conquests of Tripoli, Bugia, Oran, etc. The cloister Ls more modern than the other portions of the church. San Pedro de las Puellas (' of the Maiden ') is extra-mural, and on the site where Ludovic Pio encamped his troops in 801, and built a former church. It was so called because destined for a nunnei-y. The date of its build- ing, and names of founder and architect, are unknown ; about the beginning or middle of the loth century is the most probable ; the circular dome, vault of S. transept, nave, and western portion of the chancel, are the parts that have been the least altered. The sculpture of the capitals is remarkable, and most Eastern in character. It is said that when the nuns were aware of the probable invasion of their convent by Al Mansour's soldiers, who were recruiting for the Balearic harems, they most heroically disfigured themselves, to avoid this shame, by cutting ofT their noses. Belen. — A fine Italian church on the Rambla; \ eiy rich marbles ; Loyola's sword. San Pablo del Canipo.— A most interesting relic of the Catalan Romanesque architecture of the second period. This church — originally a Benedictine convent, founded 914 by the Count of Barcelona, Wifred II. — was severely injured by Al Mansoiir in 986, but restored by one G. Guiterdo and his wife in 1117, in a way which has allowed it to retain most, if not every portion, of the primitive structure. Jt is cruciform, with three parallel apses, an oc- tagonal vault on pendants over the crossing. The nave and transepts are covered with a waggon-vault. The W. front is interesting and purely Byzantine, with the exception of the circular window, which has been added. Ob- serve the rude symbolical sculpture on and within the massive arch — on the sides, the usual figures symbolising the Evangelists, and above the arch a hand, with a cruciform nimbus, giving the benediction. The small cloister on S. side is of nth century, very Arabic in its details, cusping, and stone work. Observe a 14th centurj' doorway, W. of cloister, and everything, indeed, connected with this important, though to many tourists not striking, little church. La Sagrada Familia. — Visitors to Barcelona should on no account fail to take a sLort journey to the northern suburb, where, j'ust beyond the new Gran-via Diagonal, there is rapidly rising the magnificent ecclesiastical pile known as ' La Sagrada Familia, ' tlie product of alms of the faithful. Planning his church upon late Gothic lines, and of magnificent proportions, the architect (Glaudi) has resolved to stamp upon the work his own original genius and the impress of a superstitious age, and has tested to breaking point the capabilities of stone as a medium of realistic legendary representation. Especially noteworthy are the wonder- ful, overgrown north and south portals, reaching from ground to roof-line : the latter setting forth the birth of Christ and the legendary life of the Blessed Virgin, the former the Crucifixion. The entire cost of this enormous work cannot be less than a million and a half sterling. The Lonja, or Exchange. — This building rises on the site formerly called 'dels Cambis,' where merchants trans- acted business 'al fresco.' There was in very early times an Exchange in all the principal cities of Spain, such as that of Madrid, established 1652, Seville BARCELONA — FUHI.IC BUILDINGS. 1535, Burgos aud Bilbao 1494, but the Exchange of Barcelona dates from about 1382, and was established by Pedro IV. of Aragon. The former Exchange ■was situated near tlie sea, and was built in 1357. There wixs a chapel added to the building in 1452, and aportico in 1562. Of this edifice nothing remiins save the hall (sala), which was finished in 1383, and escaped the general sweeping modi- fication which began its avenging work in 1772 under the Solers. Tlie st_yleof the modern building is the so-called classic, and of the Tuscan and Ionic ordei-s. The principal entrance is by the plaza of the palace. The facade is fine and eft'ective, and the whole edifice is lif stone, with marble here and there. In the court (patio) are statues symboli- cal of the four parts of the world, and several others in the Hall of Sessions, etc. — all modern and indifferent, the work of Catalonian sculptors. The Gothic hall is lofty and of good propor- tions, about 116 ft. long by 75 ft. wide. Men of business meet here daily from 1 till 4 r.M. Casa de la Diputacion. — Built in the beginning of the 15th century — was considerably enlarged at different epochs, which e.vplatns the variety of styles, taste, and execution exhibited. It was destined and served as a popular local institution for the Commons of Cataluna, until abolished by Philip V. in 1714. The name of the architect of the first plaTi is not known. About 1598, a great portion of the edifice had to be pulled down for enlargement, but Pedro Blay, the architect who carried on the works, left fortunately intact the best portions of the primitive building, such as the lateral facade of St. George, in CaUe del Obispo, the gallery round the court of the orange-trees, and the garden. The Roman or classic fagade, seen from the Plaza San Jaime is not elegant, but heavj', clumsj', and out of keeping. The work of Blay extends from tins fa9ade to the beginning of the grand staircase ; the older portion be- gins at the patio. The front of the cliapel of St. George is fine. In the centre is a small ogival door, between two pointed windows separated by pil- larets ; the wall between is worked out like a damask cloth in relievo, and is of two different patterns. This is crown- ed with delicate foliage, and a series of animals, of indiflerent execution and out of place. Over them rise ogival, placed within circular, arches, and orna- mented on the sides with cherubs' heads, and surmounted by an antcpecho balus- traded with Gothic open-AVork, tending in character to the plateresque. In the centre of a medallion is rudely sculp- tured St. George and the Dragon ; there are four Evangelists at tlie angles. The galleries, however much admired for their ingenious construction, were evi- dently the contrary, as the pillars, al- ready bent under the ill-calculated weight, show too well. The chapel it- self is uninteresting, though in it are preserved some curious antifjiuillas, such as the frontal, of St. George, on which is represented his struggle mth a lion in defence of a maiden. St. George was the tutelar of the Diputacion, as tradition would have it that he fought the Moors in behalf of the Aragonese and Catalans, and there used to be jousts and tournaments on St. George's Day, which latter is kept up every year. In the Salones del Tribunal of the Audi- en cia are some rich artesonados of the 15th century, and good, but worn-out and eifaced, tapestries. The portraits of the kings of Spain, beginning with Ataulfus, are prior to tlie 16th century. See, too (Salon de Sesiones), a good but unfinished painting by Fortuny, the great Catalan artist, representing the battle of Tetuan. There are other salones and halls, all modern and indif- BARCELONA — PRIVATE BUII-BINdS. 63 ferent. Observe from Calle del Obispo the elegant Gothic facade of St. George. The Town Hall (Casas Consistoii- ales) is Gothic, of 1373 ; the patio is fine, the principal facade modern. The Council Chamber [Salon de Ciento), 92 ft. X 45 ft., contains a series of por- traits of Catalan celebrities. In tlie Municipal Archives are a valuable col- lection of documents, dating from 1300. See especially tlie liubrica de Bruni- quer, the Libre vert, and Libre vermeil, containing the ancient royal privileges, fueros, etc., of the city. A few steps N. of tiie Diputacion lies the Plaza del Rey, -.vith the note- worthy Archivo General de la Coronn de Aragon on the W. (open 9-1 : a gi-cat store of valuable documents). Here was situated the (12th century) palace of the Counts of Barcelona, portions of which are all around. The former Salon de Embajadores is now the church of Sta. Clara. The chapel of Sta. Agueda was the former royal chapel, and exhibits fine specimens of the early Gotliic. It is now the Museo Arqueologico provincial, with over 1000 .specimens of Roman sculpture, mosaics, pottery, etc., and deserves a visit. The University. — A conspicuous pile of buildings of g"!tfm-Byzantine character, dating from 1873, stands in the Cortes, near the PI. Cataluiia. While leaving much to be desired in the way of curriculum, this is perhaps the most advanced of all Spanish universities, with a staff of really enlightened professors, some 2500 students and a fair library of 200,000 vols, and JISS. It has upwards of 80 primary schools attached to it. Every attention is paid to visitors. See especially the fine staircase, the Para- ninfo, Sala Rectoral, paintings of the modern Spanish school, and MSS. in the library. Private Buildings — There are many mansions of the 14th and 15th centurie.« well worth visiting. The Casa Dalmases, Calle Moncada 20, has a notable fafade and most exquisite Renaissance patio ; also some fine but sadly neglected salas within. In the same street are several other specimens of Italian and transitional Gothic man- sions of the Middle Ages, but none .so fine as the Dalmases. The houses ot Gralla and Despla have lost most of their ancient magnificence. The former was built about 1306 by the well-known Aragonese architect, Da- mian Forment. The interesting Casa de Dusaij stands on the site of a castle where the Wali Ghamir was confined ; but the patio is no longer that which Forment built at the beginning of the 16th century. The Cam Cardmuis, ■ close to the Bajada de San Miguel, has i a fine patio, good artesonados and ■ windows, and a noble staircase. Right I opposite the CapiHa de Sta. Lucia ' (S. W. comer of the cathedral cloisters) stands the Casa del Arcediano, with a I patio, columns, and central fountain I deserving a vi.sit. At No. 21 Calle de I la Corribia is the Casa del Gremio de I Za2)aleros, with a Renaissance facade of 1545. The old hospital of Sta. i Cruz, in the Calle del Hospital, can ! boast of a fine shady old patio and ' ancient doorway. I Tiie older portion of the city lay ; about the present cathedral. The line of fortifications followed this course — Calle de la Tapineria, E.scalas de la Sen, Plaza Nueva (here there was a gate to N.W. flanked by towers), then behind la Palla, Calle des Banys, el Call, to the palace, Plaza de Arrieros, and, continuing by the upper part of the high ground still visible here, by Calle de Basea and San Justo to join and meet the other extremity of the circuit at the Arco dc la Bajada de la 54 BARCELONA PROMKNADES. Carccl. In a house No. 10 Calle de Paradis, behind tlie apse of the cathedral, is a remarkable series of six Roman columns and an architrave, usually assifjned to a ' Temple of Hercules' (!), more probably the re- mains of some great public work. There are magnificent cloacfe, a work ascribed to the Scipios, which run un- der the Rambla (from Rami and Ram- bula, rivula), and through which a man on horseback can easily pass. Of Arab architecture there are no monu- ments, and the five Moorish baths in Calle del Banys Frets have long dis- appeared. The Roman amphitheatre was close to Calle Fernando, of which the vomitoria looked on the present Calle Boqueria. The Park (Parcpie y Jardines de la Ciudadela), situated at the eastern extremity of the city, and occupying 75 acres of ground, witli av'cnues of magnolias and exotic shrubs, palm- houses and conservatories, really de- serves the title of botanical gardens La Ciudadela was a pentagonal citadel, a la Yauban, built by Philip V. when besieging the city in 1714, and was capable of holding 8,000 to 10,000 men ; the suburb of Barceloneta being con- structed by royal order, in 1755, to compensate for the 2000 houses and churches destroyed to make room for it. It was razed in 1868, the chapel was turned into a Panteon de Catalanes ilustres, and a portion of the barracks has been converted into a royal palace. Within the precincts of the Park and in the adjoining Paseo Pajares and Salon San Juan ai'e the Museo Mar- torell, the Museo de Historia, and the Museo de Reproducciones (see p. 55), the magnificent new Palais de Justice, the Bellas Artes, where exhibitions of paintings are held from time to time, and the triumphal arch erected by Vilaseca as entrance to the 1868 Ex- hibition. The fine cascade in the centre of the Park, with its small aquarium, is worth noting. Theatres. — The Licco, or Opera- house, has been rebuilt on the site, and we believe the same proportions as the former, which was burnt down. It is on the model of La Scala of Milan, but larger than either it or the San Carlo of Naples, and accommodates upwards of 4000 spectators at their ease ; the boxes are large, and well adapted to show off dresses : first-rate Italian opera in winter. Ladies gener- ally attend with bonnets on the lower tiers ; half-dress is usual. Gentlemen can dress cul libitum. The principal boxes, being private propertj', can sel- dom or never be obtained. Tcatro Principal. A pretty theatre ; Spanish comedy, drama and dancing, opposite to Hotel de las Cuatro Naciones. The theatres in the Eusanche, the Lirico, Noveilades, Cataluna, etc., should be visited. They alone are open all the year round. Bull-Jights. — These are very inferior here to those in An- dalusia, iladrid, etc., and Catalans are no lovers of tauromachia. The Plaza was built in 1833, on the plan of that at Madrid ; it holds 10,000 spectators. The Carnival is very gay. The local great holidays are Feb. 12th, Sta. Eulalia, tutelar of the city (go to Sar- ria, etc.); Jan. 17, San Antonio, horse- races ; April 23, San Jorge (the fete takes place in gardens, courts, chapel of the Audiencia) ; on Easter ilonday, at Coll and Gracia, great merriment, fairs, booths, etc. Club. — There is a very good Atcneo, comfortably fitted up, foreign papers and reviews taken in ; presentation by a member neces- sary; several public-reading rooms, but no English papers. Directory — AjwtJiccaries. — Borrell, Calle Conde del Asalto ; Tomas Sanchio, Pambla del Centro, 31 ; Grau (homceo- pathic), Calle UTiion, 8. Bankers. — Credit Lyonnais, Rambla del Centro (all kinds of banking and change busi- BARCELONA. 55 ness). Bath". — Pasaje de la Paz, 3 ; Rambla de Estudios, 9 ; from 8r. to lOr., linen included, both good. Booksellers. — Verdagner, Lopez, and Honnebanlt, all on Eanibla. Cafts. — Coffee-houses at Barcelona are large establishments, fitted up with great luxury ; and ices, agraz, horchata, are very well prepared. The handsomest and most frequented are the Colon and Alhambra (Plaza de Cataluna), the Suizo (Rambla del Ccntro), the Barce- lona, the Novedades, the Continental. Waiters are called Iiy clapping one's hands. There are some good restaur- ants. The best are the Paris, in the Plaza Real ; the Leon dc Oro, Rambla .St a. Monica ; and Martin, Rambla del Centro. Grocer, etc., Martignole, Escudillers, 10 ; Parent, Randsla del Centro and C. Ancha. Confectioner, Llibre, corner of Calle Fernando and Rambla. Blonrlcs and Lace. — Fiter, Plaza Real, 1 ; Jaime Vives, Calle Fei- nando. Silks. — Fine Spanish [uoducc, manufactured in Catalonia and Valen- cia, etc., and foreign — Escnder, Calle Fernando. Glovers. — ElSiglo, Rambla de Estudios. Consuls. — Brit. Consulate, C. Plata, 7, J. F. Roberts, Esq., F.G.S. ; F. Witty. Esq., v.- Consul; J, W. Witty, Esq", Pro-Consul. U.S.A., H. Bowen, Esq., Rambla Sta. Monica, 2. English Church, 345 Calle Cortes, Sun. 11 A.M., 5 r.M. Chaplain, Rev. G. F. Jackson, M.A. Seamen's Instifnte, 8 Calle Cristina, on the harbour. Doctors.— Ti\: B. Robert, CalleCortis, 2;18 ; Dr. Rodr. Mendez, Paseo de Gracia, 90 ; Dr. Bonet, Paseo de Gracia, 24 ; Dr. Cardenal, Pasaje de Mercader, 13. Mcyney - chaiujers. —Several, equally good, on the Ilambla. N.B. — French gold and silver current. Perfumer.— Lafont, 5 Calle Fernando. Urines. — The Catalonian wines are strong, not very delicate, biit rich and juicy. Beni-Carlo is sent to France, where it is mixed with very light Bordeaux. This red wine is susceptible of ameli- ' oration. Malvasia de Sitjes, Rioja, I Atella, CuUera, Priorato, ought to be tasted. Museums, Libraries, Picture Galler- ' ies, etc. — The finest museum is the ad- mirably arranged and classified Museo Martorell, in the Park, with its fine J zoological and mineralogical collections, open all day long, on payment of small fee. Close by is the Museo de la Historia (archceological), open on Sun. and Thurs., free, 9-1, 3-5; also the Museo de Reproducciones, the grand ] central salon of the 1888 Exhibition, j containing some 2800 specimens, chiefly I [daster casts. The Archivo Genl. de Araijon (see p. 53) is one of the most inqiortant archives in Europe. It was established by Pedro IV. del Punyalet. The admirable classification is due to the late keeper of the archives. The documents date from the 9th century. This establishment is publishing a col- lection of political and administrative documents of gi-eat value. Free ad- mittance. Bihliofeca Arus, Paseo San Juan, 152, with fine Reading Rooms. Free admission, 9-12 A.M., 3-5 p.m. About 25,000 vols., with valuable in- c.unahles and JISS. Episcopal Lihranj, adjoining the Cathedral, 15,000 vols., 2000 MSS. of Spanish romance ; coins, specimens of minerals and natural histor}'. The library of the Ateneo (the Casino) on the Rambla, Plaza del Teatro, 7, 15,000 vol.s. ; fine rooms; admission only by a member. The Biblioteca del Seminario Conciliar, in tho Calle Diputacion, 18,000 vols. 5i'Wi'oitals, Vitoria, Bilbao, San Sebastian) are coniinonly called 'Las Provincias, ' to whicli Vas- congadas is often a(lderta del Sarmental. They contain the bodies of prelates ; and are very curious for their sculpture, and the manner and spirit of the scenes repre- sented — the torments of Hades, delights of Heaven, etc. Interior. — The form is a Liitin cross. The dimensions are : — Length, 300 ft. (Spanish), from the door of Sta. Maria (Perdon) to Chapel del Condestable ; width, 213 ft. between the door of the Sarmental to that of La Coroueria, 93 ft. being the average breadth throughout, and 193 ft. its gi-eatest height. There are three naves, which are cut jierpen- dicularly by tliat which runs parallel to the principal facade. The central one is lofty, airy, and bold ; the lateral ones are lower and of smaller propor- tions. They are separated by twenty pillars of octagonal form, strong and massive, yet neither heavy nor incon- giuous, but rather made light, slender, and elegant by the engaged shafts. The interior generally breathes a spirit of solemnity, serenity, grandeur, and noble strength. The natural whiteness of the stone, augmented by the light caused by the absence of painted glass, gives it a new appearance, as if the building had been but yesterday com- pleted. The stained glass, mostly put up in the 14th centmy, was very beau- tiful. It was destroyed by the explo- sion of the castle in 1813. The ^mve- mod, unworthy of the rest, is about to be removed and replaced by beautiful Carrara, towards which expense the Queen of Spain has recently given 6000 dollars (about £1200). The minor bay, which, with the larger, forms the cross, begins at the Portal del Sarmental, and ends at the Puerta Alta. The Lantern. — At the point of intersec- tion of these two bays is placed the crucero or Lantern, the gem of the whole edifice, which was called so by Charles V., who added that it ought to be placed in a case, and not be seen c^ other ordinary works, and Philip II. 74 RURGOS — CATIIKDRAT,. said it was rather the work of angels than of man. The lofty dome, or cim- borio, was finished on December 4, 1567, and replaced the prior one which fell in in March 1 539. To the present one all the Burgalese contributed with their purse, and especially so Card. Juan Alvarez de Toledo, son of the Duke of Alva, and his mother, whose escutcheons are displayed with that of Charles V. on the pillars to^^-ards the presbytery. It was designed by Maese Philip Vigarni alias De Borgoiia, and executed by him and Juan Castafieda and Juan de Vallejo, both from Burgos. Philip Vagarni was also a Burgalese. The Trcuisejit. — The transept is formed by four very large piers, which rise like so many towers, and are decorated with a profusion of sculpture of great deli- cacy, taste, and richness. These may be divided into four stages ; the lower one is octagonal, and forms the pedestal or basement, and is decorated with six- teen mezzo-relievo figures, allegorical of Priidence, Justice, Charity, Prayer, etc. , and Prophets. In the second the pillars are fluted, and bear shields of the said Archbp. Alvarez de Toledo and those of the cathedral. In the third and fourth are twenty full-sized statues of doctors of the church, apostles, etc. From the cornice spring the four toral or main arches from amid bxmches of fruit. They are richly decorated, and bear four angels holding scrolls with date of bmlding. At each angle there is a statue, size of life, supporting the cimborio, and over them angels, shells, and busts. At the eight angles there are seraphs, waving banners bearing arms of the cathedral, round which is the versicle, ' I will praise Thee in Thy temple, and will glorify Thy name. Thou whose works are miracles. ' There are numberless statues of prophets, pin- nacles, etc., under the galleries, over the windows, etc. This lantern is roofed in by an elegant dome, the pat- tern of which is a star ; the height ol this from the pavement is 173 ft. The style of this magnificent work is Re- naissance, with traces of the Gothic or- namentation of the third period ; the composition and execution of the sculp tarre is classic and pivre. There is in the whole a splendour, a breadth, a boldness seldom equalled in any other work. The exterior is very beautiful also ; the stone of Ontoria, out of which it has been made, enhances the effect. High Altar. — The style of the retablo belongs to the Revival, and comprises the three orders. It is full of relievos, with subjects drawn from the life of the Virgin, and statues of apostles and saints. The elaborate sagrario is de- corated with relievos representing scenes ft-om the Old and New Testament. This retablo was designed and executed by Rodrigo and his brother Martin del Haya for 40,000 ducats. It was gilt and cstofado by Urbina of Madrid and Martinez of Valladolid for 1 1, 000 ducats, which were given by Bishop Vela, 1596. The sculpture was begun in 1577, and completed in 1593, and is generally con- sidered good. To the right of the altar are the tombs of the Infante Don Juan (son of Alfonso the Learned), Count Don Sancho, and his wife Beatrice. For this reason it is called a Camilla Real. In the Transagrario are alto-relievos representing the Passion of Christ. These spirited ivory-like compositions date 1540, and are the work of Juan de Borgona. Between the pillars of the central nave are six rejas, which are fixed on jasper pedestals and grecs. Those on each side of the presbytery are of bronze wrought for Archbishop Navarretto by a lay monk called P. Martinez. They are all very beautiful. On the outside of the above-mentioned pillars of the central nave are statues oi saints, etc., the size of life. liURGOS — CATI[r.I)KAL. 75 The Choir is very fine, and is com- posed of 103 walnut stalls divided into two tiers. In the Loiver Tier the arms, back, and seat are ornamented with delicate box sculpture. Between them are pilasters full of mouldings, and all literally covered with flowers, ornaments, human figures, chimeras, fantastic ani- mals and foliage, the pasamanos or balusters being most originally deco- rated with quaint figures. The backs are ornamented with relievo medallions representing scenes from the life of the Virgin, and martyrdoms of different saints. In the Upper Tier there are also abundant mouldings, inlaid and figured. The backs and respaldos are ornamented with relievos from the l^ew Testament, cro^vned with a bust. In this tier nins a series of alternately-placed columns varied in sculpture with figures, and terminated by a sort of canopy. In the front are medallions representing scenes from the Old Testament, and in the intermediate spaces are statuettes of apostles, sibyls, and various saints. Ob- serve all the phases of the Creation, the legend of the deluge, the poem of Abraham, and the story of Jacob. On the backs of this upper tier are scenes from the New Testament. On those of the lower tier are scenes already described, and statuettes of saints, the third being St. Atendio riding the devil, who, ac- according to legends and Father Feijoo ('Cartas Eruditas,' otc, vol. i., p. 24), took him from Jaen to Rome in one niglit. The stalls arc of different periods and artists ; the lower is the best and most classical. This fine Re- naissance Italian-like work dates 1497- 1512. The choir was formerly near the high altar, and Bishop La Fuerte Ampudia had it removed to satisfy cer- t;iin ideas of precedence. The archi- episcopal stall or throne is a copy of that of Granada, and much ornamented irith statuettes, scenes from Scripture, etc. Card. Zapata, a gi'cat benefactoi of the cathedral, had it enclosed and railed in. The trascoro or reredos was put up at a cost of 10,000 ducats, but as it did not please those artist-prelates of the times, it was pnlled down, and the present one, costing a similar sum, substituted. The splendid reja, which cost 5500 ducats, is the work of J. 15. Celma (1602), and the gift of Cardinal Zapata, whose canting arms, boots and shoes, are placed here. The trascoro pillars rise upon jasper greesand pedestals ; there are two statues of SS. Peter and Paid, of white marble, brought from Italy. The relievo repre- sents St. Paul in the desert, fed miracu- lously with loaves brought by philan- thropic crows. The sculptor was a Carthusian monk caUed Leiva, ob. 1637. ^Ul the relievos, columns, statues of saints, and altar-pieces, were the work of Bishop Manso of Zuniga, who gave 16,000 ducats towards it, and the scidp- tor was one Fray Juan de Rizi, a Bene- dictine monk. The organs are small, but good. The tone is distinctly superior to that of most Spanish organs. Under the first lectern, placed at the entrance of choir, is the jacent effigy of Bishop Maurice, ' Pontifex et Fundator,' ob. 1240, of whose family little is known else than that he was an Englishman by birth, and that he was elected Bishop of Bur- gos in 1214. The Virgin on the second lectern is by Ancheta, and considered very fine (1578). Chapels. — These number fifteen, but difier in style and proportions, as they were built at different periods, and are therefore not in keeping with the main portion of the church. Chapel of Sta. Tecla. — A chirrch in itself ; tawdry, though much admired by the natives, whom glitter and gaudiness dcliglit, of churriguresque style, founded by Arch- bishop Samaniego in 1734. The media 76 BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. narauja, or dome, is well executed, tlie colours are fresh as the first day. Ou the site of the present baptistery, old and cui-ious in its way, there was for- merly a small chapel of Santiago, in which Alfonso XI. instituted the order of knighthood of La A''anda (the badge) in 1330, of which the Catholic kings were brothers, cofrades (companions). Chapel ofSta. Ana. — Not very interest- ing in itself, but see round the urna the sculptured genealogical tree of Christ, beginniug with Abraham and finishing at Christ. Founded by Bishop Acuha, 1474, of florid Gothic style. The statu- ary here is not very good. There is a Holy Fauiil_v, ascribed to Andrea del Sarto ; a St. Philip Neri and St. Francis, by M. Cerezo ; the few others here are in- different. Bosarte and other connoisseurs mention with encomium the small Go- thic altar and retablo, with tomb of Archdeacon Fuente Pelayo, ob. 1492, enriched with sculptm'ed scenes from the NeAV Testament ; the other sej^ul- chres, including that of the founder, are not verj' fine, and date 15th century. Escalera (stau'case) de la Puerta Alta. — This staircase of 38 steps was rendered necessary from the imeveu site upon which the cathedral stands. It is a magnificent specimen of its kind, and of Renaissance style, not exempt from Gothic details. The plan is novel, the work most elaborate, and the effect charming. It is ascribed to Diego Siloe, whose handling of foliage, children, lion's claws, gi'iffins, draperies, etc., are, says Bosarte, ' not be mistaken with those of any other sculptor. ' The iron baluistrade was wrought by Cristobal Andino. The sepulchral altar of Ber- nardino Gutierrez is remarkable for the exquisitely-sculptured children over the arch ; the artist's name is not known — some ascribe it to Torrigiano, M. Angelo's rival, lu the same nave is the very old chapel of San Nicolds. On the left entering is a tomb, with standing effigy of l)ishop Villahoz, ob. 1275 ; as bodies used at that time to be interred standing and embedded in walls, these tombs were hence called ' armarios. ' There are some portraits here of Pope Gregory XL, Canon of Burgos (1371), and Alexander VL, archdeacon of the same cathedral, 1492, etc. — Csesar Borgia, and father of Lucrezia Borgia. Close to it is a fine and richly-sculptured tomb of the learned Archdeacon Fernandez Vil- legas (1536), who translated Dante into Spanish. Cainlla del Coiidestable. — A conni- table, comlestahle (from which constable), as the Latin etymology explains it somewhat {comes stabuli, Ducange, etc.), was ' an officer, so called, because, like the Lord High Constable of Eng- land, he was to regulate all matters of chivalry — tilts, tournaments, and feats of arms — which were performed on horseback.' (Blackstone's Com. 355.) He also commanded the cavalry, and bore the royal standard in battle. This chapel was founded, as the inscription relates, ' by D. Pedro Fernandez de Ve- lasco, Coimt of Haro, of the House of the Infantes of Lara, five times Viceroy of these realms, who was present at the wars of Portugal and Granada, and con- tributed to the Catholic kings obtaining these kingdoms, etc' The Duke of Frias is the present heir to this founder, and is the pati'on and possessor of the chapel. It is the largest and most beautiful in the cathedral It was built by Juan de Colonia, and parts, though very few, of his works are as German as his name. The style is the Gothic florid (with somewhat of the Saracenic ornament) of the 15th century, and the gi'ound-plan is octagonal, with a bold cimborio and large ogival ^vin- dows. The entrance is magnificent, and formed by a semicircular arch full of details, and of that peculiar and intri- BURGOS — CATHEDRAL, 77 cate ornament called cresteria (crest- work or niche-work); above it are seve- ral charming clusters of pinnacles, with statuettes and larger subjects under most richly-worked canopies, looking like piled-up lace of point d'Angleterre. Below this portion of the arch there are numberless pillarets, figures, and child- ren supporting cornices; then come other statuettes placed at the side of children with crowns of laurel ; in the centre of one of the latter is a sun and Jesus' name; in the other, a cross. Over this the Annunciation of the Virgin, St. Gabriel on one side and the Virgin on the other. The railing, or reja, is one of the finest specimens of Eenaissance extant, though age and neglect have done much to efface its primary splen- dour and tarnish the colouring, etc. It was the masterwork of Cristobal Andino, and was wTought in 1523. It is com- posed of two bodies and an attic, crowned by an asp or cross of San Andres. Observe everything here : — The two kneeling figures holding an escutcheon ; the heads of Jesus and Mary ; and the inscription on the other side of them — the ' Ego sum Alpha et Omega,' and statue of the Saviour ; the four-sided columns, then the ba- lustraded pillars higher up. The lock is so contrived that nobody can open the reja who does not possess the secret of pulling back a certain spring ingeniously concealed. The principal retablo is of the Revival, with traces of the grutesto, and some remnants of the primitive Gothic one, which Avas removed and replaced by the present one. It forms two stages ; the first is formed by the Purification and figures of the Virgin, St. Joseph, Infant Deity, etc., and a girl carrying doves in a basket. On ths cornice and on one side is a statue representing the Law of 'Gracia' (Holy Grace), personified by a young woman with eyes lifted up to heaven ; as a pendant, is another of the Written Law, represented by an aged man holding a book. The upper por- tion is filled by relievos of scenes from the Xew Testament. Over it all are a small shell and a skulL There are a few other figures of saints, ascribed by some to Becerra, and by others to Juni. There are four large stone escutcheons with arms of the Velascos on the walls, supported by wild men and women. There are fourteen windows in the chapel, with painted glass, representing scenes from Passion and arms of founders. The statues of St. Austin and St. Jerome close to the pillars are good, but in- ferior to the same latter saint placed in a retablo of a small chapel on the left. It is by Becerra, one of Spain's few and great sculptors. The Gothic retablo opposite is very ancient. Close to the steps of the high altar are the magnifi- cent tombs of the founders, all of jasper except the efligies, which are of Car- rara marble. They were sculptured in Italy in 1540. The elfigy of the con- stable, who died in 1492 when he was Viceroy of Castile, etc., is l)nng armed cap-d-jxid, full length, and the muscles of his hands, elaborate details of his mailed armour, cushion, etc., are won- derful. There is a huge block of po- lished jasper close to it, now without object, and weighing about 200 cAvt. The effigy of the constable's wife, ' La muy ilustre Senora Dona ^lencia de Mendoza, Condesa de Haro ' (ob. 1500, set. 79), is also fuU length, and lying on richly-embroidered cushions, with elaborately-embroidered gloves, and a lapdog at her feet, emblem of fidelity. The vault is under these tombs. In the sacristy is the picture of a Magdalen, ascribed to Leonardo da Vinci ; the colouring is beautifuL Beneath it is the little portable ivory altar, which the constable canied about with him in his campaigns ; the other pictures and por- 78 I3UKG0S — CATHEDRAL. traits are inferior. Ask for a fine work of Arfe's, a cross, aud several other jealously-guarded relics. (K.B. — This chapel must bo vi.sitcd before 12.30, or by special arrangement. ) The Chajicl of Santiago is the largest in the cathedral, and serves as the parish church. The reja, which rests on jasper pedestals, is crowned by a statue of the patron of Spain. There is a line tomb of J. 0. de Velasco, Abbot of San Quirce, ob. 1557 ; it is placed on the left on entering. There is also a tomb of the Lesmes, whose father, Pedro de Astudillo, founded the cele- brated chapel of the Magi Kings in the cathedral of Cologne. In the high altar there is the apostle on horseback. In the centre of the chapel lies Bishop Juan de Villacreces, ob. 1463, in an alabaster tomb ; close to it a jasper one of the Eegidor of Burgos, Melgosa, ob. 1523, and his wife. There are some other tombs, of no great merit either in the chapel or its sacristy ; observe, never- theless. Bishop Cabeza de Vaca's plater- esque tomb, 1512, aud that of his brother Dou Pedro (literally cow's head, an illustrious family in Spain — Front de Bceuf). The five altars here are in- different. SacristiaNueva. — Formerly comjiosed of two chapels. There are some old mirrors and ijidifTerent jjictures ascribed to Giordano (Nativity of Christ), a Christ and Ecce Homo to Murillo, and in the ante-vestry a St. Francis, as- scribed to Wateo Cerezo — aU doubtful. The cajoneria, or chest of drawers to hold the church and priest's ornaments, etc., are finely carved ; all the rest is churriguercsque and tawdry. There are some curious objects : a jasper table, a rich specimen of braseros, a fine proces- sional cross, etc. Chapel of San Enrique. — Founded by Arehbp. Peralta, at the cost of 100,000 ducats. Observe the magnificent kneel- ing effigy and tomb of the founder, ob. 1679 ; the bronze lectern is good ; tht pavement and steps are of alabaster; the stalls are inlaid. In the sacristy is a very curious table, aud a Dolorosa aud Christ ascribed to Cerezo. Chapel of San Juan de Salmgun. — Here is the much-venerated Vii'gin de Oca. Here is the tomb also of the Beato Lesmes, 'liijo de Burgos, abo- gado del dolor de riaones,' wlio is be- lieved to cure pains in the kidneys, and said to have earned this jirivilege by the patience with which he bore the same complaint, which had been caused by constantly bending when he distri- buted corn to the poor. See a picture of a Christ de la Agonia, by Theoto- copuli, il Grecco, whose signature is placed at the foot of the cross. In its sacristy is the ground-plan of the cathe- dral. The Helicario was formerly a chapel of St. Peter, and abounds in the usual gifts of kings and great jiersonages, consisting of legs, toes, arms, jaws, teeth, and other parts of the bodies of saints ; here is kept the image of the Virgin de Oca, who nodded assent to a devout seiiorita who made her a witness to her faithless lover's promise of marriage. ChcqKl of la Prcse/Uacion. — Spacious; founded by Canon Lerma in 1519. Over the modern high altar is a Virgin, ascribed by Pouz and other good con- noissuers to Michael Angelo; others say it is rather by Sebastian del Piombo, but all concur in considering it very beautifully executed aud composed. It was sent here by a wealthy Florentine, Mozzi. A fine white marble tomb of Canon Jacobo de Bilbao, who, a good son, and therefore a righteous man, erected a mausoleum to his ' matri di- lectffi' and himself with the Christian and simple ci)itaph : ' Because I have hoped in thee, Lord, and have entrusted to Thee my soul . ' Tomb of the founder, with efligy, said to be a portrait. BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 79 Chapd of Santisimo Crista de la Ago- nia. — Here is kept the celebrated and much-venerated Cristo de Burgos, wliich was, according to Florez, carved by Nico- demus, shoitly after he, -nitli Joseph of Arimathe;i, buried our Lord. It was found inside a box floating in the sea, and after many eventful journeys and mishaps, was finally removed to this cathedral from the convent of St. Agus- tine in 1836. It certainly is of very early date, and most admirably model- led ; the anatomy perfect, a deep ex- pression of pain ; the hair, beard, eye- liishes, thorns, are all real. To this image are ascribed numberless miracles, and it is said to sweat on Fridays, and even to bleed now and then. ' Rien n 'est plus lugubre, ' says a French writer, * et plus inquietaut a voir que ce long fan tome crucifie avec son faux air de vie et son immobilite morte. ' The image is girt with a richly embroidered crino- line. The pictures aie indifferent ; the Descent from the Cross is ascribed to Ribera (Sp;ignoletto). The clocks of the cathedral are not very old ; they are furnished with smaU figures that come out and strike the hour, and slide in again, etc. The Cloisters are interesting, and date middle of 1 4th century. They are spa- cious, and occupy a quadrangle, each galleiy being of 89 ft. long by 22 ft. broad. The walls from the outside are pierced with double arches pointed in the shape of agimeces (Moorish windows), subdivided by smaller ones, and richly ornamented Avith lancet-work, trefoil, pillarets, roses, etc. The principal en- trance is of an early date, and the sculp- ture and details abundant and curious. On the doors is a mezzo -relievo repre- senting Christ's entrance into Jerusa- lem, and other biblical and allegorical scenes and statues of saints, the Evan- gelists, etc. ; these doors were given by Bishop Acuna. Round the arch are two rows of statue.s, and in the keystone angels holding arro\\s. In the centre is represented the Baptism in the Jor- dan. A peculiarity distinguishing this from other similar scenes is that our Lord is seated and does not stand. It is thought the Gothic sculptor resorted to this innovation to avoid the some- what irreverent representation of the act by imvicrsion, and not by ahlulion ; the Hmbs of the Saviour are actually immersed, to be true to tradition, and yet the figiu-e is seated with dignity and ease. Four statues of David, Isaiah, St. Gabriel, and the Virgin, decorate this splendid door. There is also a head of St. Francis of Assis, said to be an extempore portrait by the sculptor, taken at the moment the saint was passing by. It is probable that all the figures on this door were formerly painted. In the interior the ogives of the win- dows are very pure in shape, and deco- rated profusely with foliage, and in the centre with statues of saints and Chris- tian heroes, of good and correct Gothic style. There are, besides, a great num- ber of tombs of diflerent periods and styles, some with good seulptmes. There are five chapels also. On enter- ing, to the right, is the tomb of Canon Aguilar, with his effigy in sacerdotal robes, a dog at his feet, and a closed book in his hands ; the date 1482. The tomb of Canon Gadea, chaplain of the Catholic kings, and before of Don En- rique, ob. 1483. The epitaph ends, ' Virtus socia ntse fuit. Gloria mortis comes.' The diess of a knight at one side of the tomb, railed in, is curious ; on the back is a Christ seated, with fig- ures and angels. The pictures are in- different in the chapel de los Reyes. Proceeding on, is the tomb of Sepid- veda, chaplain of the kings Don Juar and Don Enrique of Castile. Observ: especially the tomb of Canon Santander so BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. ob. 1523 — a magnificent work, full of details delicate and chaste. See the charming, youthful, loving Virgin and Cliild, forming a relievo in the centre of the arch, and carved out of the beau- tiful white Ontoria stone ; the attitude of the head, breathing maternal love, and the ecstacy at being chosen the mo- ther of God, remind one somewhat of that in Raphael's 'Vergine della Seggiola.' There is a freedom, a boldness of com- position and execution seldom attempt- ed by artists of those times. She holds with her right hand a book opened, with her left the Infant, of exquisite model- ling. There are escutcheons with fleiu'S- de-lys, etc. In the third gallery is a door leading up to the archives, which contain very early and ciirious documents concerning the cathedral. In a chapel lies the tomb of Juan Cuchiller. He was ser- vant, or rather a knight trenchant (cu- chiller, cuchillo) to Henr}' III. el Enfer- mo, and a rara avis amongst his kind, who sold his coat to buy cle cenar for his master. Happy times ! for now it is rather masters who have finally to sell their coats to procure suppers for their flunkeys. The effigy is of alabas- ter ; a dog, the emblem of fidelity, lies at his feet. On the wall is affixed a heavy dark -looking trunk, called El cofre del Cid. Tliis is supposed to be one of the tioo tnmks which he filled with sand and left as security to the Burgalese Jews, Rachel and Vidas, for a loan of 600 marks, assming them that they contained all his jewels and gold, but that they were not to open them until his return. There is no proof or evidence in the 'Romanccro,' ' Crouica Rimada, ' etc. , of his having ever repaid either the principal or interest. But Mio Cid was then in want of money for the conquest of Valencia, and this hero, who 'fought for his bread,' was as un- scrupulous as heroes have always been. and always will be. He, a Christian knight, headed infidel armies against his fellow-Christians ; he, a Castilian lord, rebelled and fought against his king ; he betrayed not only these money-lenders, thus out-Jewing the Jews (for to do so was a merit in those times), but Alfonso, the Moorish kings, his allies, everybody, and practised but too well the Al-harbo Khod'aton of Mahomet (Arabic^, to wage war is to betray). It is only fair to say, however, that the ' Cionica del Famoso Cavallero Cid Ruy Diez Campeador,' Cap. ccxvi., distinctly asserts that Alvar Faiiez and Martin Autolinez were sent by the Cid from Valencia, and paid to Rachel and Vidas 300 marks of gold and 300 marks of silver for these two chests. There is at least a probability that is the original and genuine complement of the legend, told in honour of the Cid. This old trunk is undoubtedly, says a French writer, ' La doyenne des malles du monde,' and contained some parch- ments till very recently. Sala Capitular contains some paint- ings ascribed to Giordano, and a 'St. John the Evangelist,' also ascribed to Murillo. The walls on great holidays are hung with fine old tapestry. The roof forms a fine artesonado : around the cornice run versicles from the 3d chap, of the Book of Proverbs. In the Sacristifc Vieja are some fine Venetian mirrors and t^vo coral branches. An admirably carved cajoneria (presses), to keep the beautifully embroidered ter- nos, carved by a Benedictine monk called Pedro Martinez. There are 128 portraits of the bishops and archbishops of Burgos. The eighth arcade of the fourth gallery was supposed to have contained the former Royal Chapel, where Ferdinand was man-ied to Beat- rice by Maurice, the English Bishop of Burgos, November 30th, 1219. Ob- serve their two former statues, and BURGOS. 81 jpposite four statuettes representing tliis king's sons, ami in tlie tliird angle of the cloister a statuette of Bishop Maurice, also St. Ferdinand, and two other figures. There are other cloisters beneath, with good scidptures and an infinity of tombs, statues, and epitaphs of 13th and 14th centuries. The cathedral contains 7 staircases, 112 \vindows, 36 railings, 144 pictures, upwards of 60 tombs (worked out and raised above the ground), 7 organs, 9 baptismal fonts, 9 choirs, and 9 lec- terns, 10 confessional.?, 44 altars, with nearly 100 full-length statues. On en- tering the cathedral, Sta. Tecla is the first chapel on the right, and the Cliapel del Cristo that on the left. Chiu-ch opened from 5 a.m. to 8 p.m. High mass with organ music at 9.30 p.m. on Sundays and holidays; organs good. To see jewels, apply to capellan mayor. To be seen only after 3.30 p.m. To visit the archives, make copies of pic- tiu-es, and the like, apply to the cabiklo. Churches. — Sta. Agucda or Gadea, deserves a visit, as an historical monu- ment a-ssociated with the poetic and chivalrous legend of the Cid. It was one of the iglesias juraderas — that is, of purgation by adjuration. It was there- fore in this chapel that Alfonso VI. was obliged, in the presence of the Cid, to swear that he had no part in the mur- der of his brother Don Sanclio at the siege of Zamora. According to authen- tic liistory — if such there bi — the king swore on the cerrojo, or a lock, which was the touchstone of his veracity ; other authors say on the Gospels. According to the ' Romancero,' it runs thus : ' In Sta. Agueda, at Burgos, where knights are wont to take the oaths, the oath of Alfonso /ras also taken after his brother's death. The gallant Cid, who held a crucifix, made him swear the truth upon an iron lock, a cross- bow, and the Gospels. The ivords he speaks are so awful that the king shudders at them. ' If thou shouldst not speak the truth on what is asked thee, namely— if thou hadst any part in the murder of thy brother — may knaves kill thee,— knaves from Asturias, and not from Castile ; may thee kill thee with iron-pointed bludgeons, and not with lances nor shafts ; with hom-handled knives, and not with gill poniards. May those that do so wear clogs, and not laced shoes ; may they wear rustics' cloaks and not the Courtray cloaks, or those made of curled silk ; canvas shirts, and not Hollands embroidered ; may each of them be mounted on an ass, and not on a mule or a horse : may they make use of rope-bridles, and not of leathern ones well tanned ; may they kill thee in the fields, and not in a city or a vil- lage ; and may they tear thy heart all panting from thy breast!' The oath was so awful that the king did not venture to take it. But a knight, a friend of the king, said unto him : ' Swear, and fear naught, brave king, for never was a king perjured nor a pope ex- communicated.' The gallant king then took the oath, and swore he had had no hand in his brother's assassination ; but even then he was filled with anger and indignation : ' Thou wast wrong, O Cid, to make me take that oath, for later thou wilt have to kiss my hand.' ' To kiss a king's hand is no honour to me. ' Get thee hence from this my land, thou Cid, false knight, and come not back till a year has elapsed," etc. The church is uninteresting, com- posed of a single ogival nave of a pure style, and a fine Revival tomb. The famous lock of the Cid was affixed up out of reach by Bishop Don Pascual de la Fuente. San Eskhan. — Gothic (1280-1350) ; formerly a convent. The portico is com- posed of three stages of ogives with figiu-es canopied, and of good eflfect. The interior is formed of three spacious naves. The lofty arches are orna- mented with the B3'zantine pattern called Grecas by the Spaniards. The retablos are modem ; a plateresque tomb on tlie left of the vestry door ; pictures inferior. San Pablo (1415-35, now cavalry barracks) contains some tine Revival tombs, of the middle of 16th century, and a good cloister. In San Nicolas there is a stone retablo richly carved, and tombs of the 16th and beginning of 16th centuiy. G 82 BURGOS — PUBLIC BUILDINGS. San Gil (14th century).— Some fiiie specimens of Gothic sepulchres ; a very interestmg and elegant iron pulpit and fine retahlos in chapels N. and S. of choir. Streets. — The finest parts of Burgos are the Espolon Nuevo and Viejo and the new Ensauche, on the Paseo de la Isk, together with the Plaza de Castilla, where may be seen many notable build- ings — the new Audiencia, the Salesas, the Casa Maguido, etc. The Plaza Mayor is a large square, designed by Ventura Rodriguez, the last great (?) architect of Spain (1783). In the centre is a very mediocre bronze statue of Charles III. ; the fashionable barrio in former days was in and about the Calle Alta. The older streets are Calle San Lorenzo, Avellanos, and San Juan ; the widest street is del Huerto del Rey. The streets, ill-paved and prosy for one's feet as they are, abound, many of them, with associations of the ever- poetic past. The Town Rail is a modern building, containing some very middling modern portraits, said to be likenesses of Bur- galese worthies. The gates are most picturesque ; especially the Arco de Santa Maria, which is said to have been erected by the Burgalese on the occasion of the visit of Charles V., and to reconcile him to them after the part they had taken in the Comunero move- ment. It was decorated with the statues of the ])opular heroes of the city, the Cid, Lain Calvo, Fernan Gonzalez, etc., and that of the Caisar was placed in the centre. Over the arch, which was origi- nally painted and gilt, is the image of the Vh-gin, to whom it was ostensibly dedicated. The gate is ornamented with turrets and battlements, and, with the circular (cubo) bastions of the former walls of this once mighty capital, forms a very effective and interesting spot. It was erected on the site of the Torre de Santa Maria, from which Don Pedro el Justiciero hurled the Justicia Mayor Garci Laso de La Vega. The rooms placed over the arch were the former Town Hall of the city ; these have two horseshoe doors Avith stucco patterns. The Arco de Fernan Gonzalez was erected to the memory of that hero by Philip II. It is of Doric style, and effective. Close by in the Calle Alta was the solar, or mansion of the Cid, on the site of which Charles III. erected (1781) the present paltry and insignifi- cant monument. On the obelisks are the shields of Burgos and of the Cid. The Cid was Ijorn here in 1026, was baptized in the Church of San Martin, now no longer extant, and died at Valencia in 1099. His body was re- moved from the latter town to the monastery of Cardena, near Burgos, whence once more it was conveyed to the Town Hall. The bones of the hero and those of his faithful and heroic Jimena are shown to visitors on obtain- ing the verbal j^enniso of the secretarj' of the Ayuntamiento. The bones are kept in a common walnut m-n, placed in a room fitted up as a chapel. The Castle of Burgos is interesting in an historical point of view. It was the early palace of the Coimts of Castile. In 959, Count Fernan Gonzalez brought Garcia, King of Navarre, a prisoner here, and confined him for thirteen months. The bridal of the Cid took place witliin it. Alfonso VI. of Leon was taken here after he was made a prisoner by the Cid in the Chui-ch of Carrion. Here St. Ferdinand received St. Casilda, daugh- ter of the Moorish King of Toledo, who was converted to Christianity. It was the birthplace of Pedro the Cruel : Don Fadrique, son of Enrique II. and the first Spanish duke, was imprisoned here ; and here again Edward I. of England espoused Eleanor of Castile. It was in those times a magnificent BURGOS — CASTLE. 83 palace, as well as a strong fortress, which was considerably strengthened in the succeeding reigns. The state- rooms were desti'oyed by a fire which happened in 1736. In Nov. 1808, on Napoleon's victorious march from Vitoria to Madrid, at the head of the second corps d'anuee, under Soult, Burgos was defended by Count Belve- der, at the head of 12,000 men. Las- salle, after a reconnois.sance, retired to his quarters, pursued by lialf the Spanish army, which was at Gamonal. The Frencli horsemen then turned sud- denly upon the assailants, defeated these and the rest, and entered the town pele-mele. It then became the head quarters of Napoleon. The Duke of Wellington, after the battle of Sala- manca, laid siege to Burgos ; but, being ill supported by Balesteros, had to raise the siege, to avoid falling into the hands of Soult, who was advancing at the head of overwhelming numbers. On Sept. 1, 1812, AVellington began this siege, at the head of very few troops, and with only three 18-pounders. The castle was garrisoned by 1800 infantry, besides artillerymen, commanded by the gallant Dubreton. It was de- fended by five enclosures, which a heavy casemated work called the Na- poleon battery cannonaded on every side except to the N., where at some dis- tance another height, San Miguel, was weakly palisaded. The French pos- sessed twenty-six guns, besides the re- serve artillery of the army of Portugal. The position taken by the English extended from San Miguel on the left of the old camino real to Vitoria, up to the island of San Pedro. On the 19th, notwithstanding the strong batteries commanding the Arlanzon, this river was forded by the first division, and the first assault made by Major Somers Cooks, .supported by Pack's Portuguese. Though the loss was great, the hill of San Miguel was gained. The plan of the siege now became clearer. Head quarters were fixed at Villa Toro. Col. Burgoyne conducted the operations of the engineers, and the artillery was placed under Robe and Dickson. They had only three 18-pounders and five 24-pound howitzers. The second as- .sault met with no success ; the third was also a failure, owing to the darkness of the night and the fault of the con- ducting engineers ; the fourth seemed at first to be attended with better suc- cess, but each time the troops had ad- vanced, Dubreton ' came thundering down from the upper ground, levelling all the works, carrjdng off all the tools, etc. ' Major Cocks was killed, with 200 killed or wounded. After the fifth as- sault, the French regained some import- ant positions, gallantly obtained by the English, who had once more to fall back on their former lines. The news came now that Soult was marching from Granada, King Joseph \yas mov- ing upon Madrid, and Soidiam concen- trating CafiareDi's troops with his ovm at Briviesca. The English army, -with- out ammunition, ill - provisioned, de- spondent, and even growing insub- ordinate, had to raise the siege, and Wellington determined to endeavour to join Hill. This retreat was efi'ected after thirty-three days of investment, and a loss of upwards of 2000 men. The movement was skilfully concerted, and boldly carried out on the 21st. In June 1813, the castle, still in posses- sion of the French, had not been re- paired, but rather so neglected that it was declared untenable. Before the advancing duke. King Joseph retreated. The castle was mined, but the mmes so hurriedly or unskilfully exploded that theydestroyed about 300 French, ruined several streets, and thousands of shells, being ignited and driven upwards, fell on several buildings, whi<;h they com- 84 LURGOS — LAS IIUELGAS. pletelj' dcstroyctl or mutilated. It was theu, and L}' that terrific explosion, that the beautiful painted glass windows in tlic cathedral were destroyed. The castle is now in ruins, and the fortifi- cations quite insignificant. Private Houses. — There ai'e still a few mansions, curious and interesting .specimens of the civil architecture of the 14th to the 16th century. Visit especially the ' Casa del Cordon' (16th century), now the residence of the Cap- tain General. It belongs to the Duke of Frias, who is a descendant of the Count of Haro, who erected it, and was Constable of Castile. It dates from the end of 15th century. Over the portal is the rope or cordon of the Teu- tonic Order which links the arms of the houses of Velasco, !RIendoza, and Figuera with those of royalty. The magnificence of this royal mansion must have equalled that of the chapel of the Constable in the Cathedral erected by the same nobleman, and there are stUl some fine azulejos, artesonado ceilings, the patio with two series of galleries, arms, turrets, etc., besides some family portraits in the administrador of the duke's rooms ; but miich was plundered and destroyed by the French. Casa de Miranda. — In Calle de laCalera, E. of the barrio de la Vega. Obsei-ve the noble patio and pillars. Casa de Angulo. — Close to the former, of 16th century ; a fine portal. In Calle de los Avellanos, Casa del Conde de Villariezo, of the 10th century, where the powerfid con- stable Alvaro de Luna was imprisoned. The archiepiscopal palace is plain. Suburbs. — Those which travellers should not fail to visit consist of the convent of Las Huelgas ; Cartuja of Miraflores ; and San Pedro de Cardena, where the Cid's tomb used to be. Las Huelgas. — This convent is situ- ated on the high road to Valladolid, and was founded by Alfonso VI IT. and his queen Leonora, daughter of Henry II. of England, in 1180, on the site ot some pleasure-grounds (huelgas, from holrjar, to rest = Sans Souci). It has been often augmented and repaired in subsequent periods, and is therefore not homogeneous in either style or shape. Of the former palace or vUla, nothing more, it is said, remains than the small cloister with fantastical caj)itals, and B}'zantine semicircular arch. The church was consecrated in 1279, and was the work of King St. Ferdinand. It is of a good pure Gothic, severe, and well characterised. Tlie interior of the church is worth careful studying, though disfigured by tinsel ornamenta- tion and furniture, churrigueresque altars, etc. The abbesses of Huelgas used formerly to be most powerful, and inferior to no one in dignity besides the queen ; they were mitred, ' Seuoras de horca y cuchillo ' ( i. e. with riglit of life and death), lorded over fifty-one villages and boroughs, named their alcaldes, curates, chap- lains, and possessed the style of ' Tor la gracia de Dios ' and * nullius diocesis.' It is one of the few re- maining convents which have pre- served, though considerably diminished, extensive landed propertj^ amounting to some 15,000 fanegas, several villages, and many thousand head of merino sheep. The order is Cistercian, and to gain admission the nuns must, besides the ordinary exigencies of the rule, bring adowiy and belong to the nobility. The clausura (confinement) is most strict, and the nuns can only be visited by ladies. On Sundays, during high mass, they may be nevertheless seen sitting in their magnificently carved stalls, singing and praying, clad in a most becoming dress. As the building was also intended for the burial-house of the Kings of Castile, there are several tomb.s worthy of a rapid glance. In BURGOS — CARTUJA. 85 this Escorial of the Nortli are buried, amongst others, tlie Emperor Alfonso Vil., Alfonso VIII., and his queen Leonora, Alfonso the Learned, Hen- rique I., etc. In this church the maniage took place of the Infante de la Cerda (who is bm-ied here) with Blanche, daughter of St. Louis of France, at which the Kings of Castile, Aragon, Navarre, the Moorish King of Granada, Prince Edward of England (son of Henry III.), the Empress of Constantinople, the French Dauphin, and twenty or thirty other crowned heads and princes were present. A- niougst the nims of rank that have lived and died here, were Berenguela, daughter of St. Ferdinand ; Maria of Aragon, aunt to Charles V., etc. In the Chapel de Santiago is preserved an image of this warrior saint, in which some sprhigs move the arms. Here aspirants to knighthood used to 'velar las armas' (keep the vigd), and when they were knighted, a sword was fas- tened to the right hand of the image, which, by moving a spring, fell gently on the recipient' s shoulder, and thus their dignity was saved ; for otherwise it was an offence to receive the accolade (dub of knighthood) from a man. In the nun's chou- is preserved the banner of Alfonso VIII., which waved at Las Navas de Tolosa. La Cartuja. — This convent is one of the lions of Burgos, and well deserves a visit. The distance is half-an-hour's drive from the centre of the city ; a calfeche there and back, 20r. Shown only from 8 a.m. to 12 a.m., and from 3 P.M. to sunset. The convent, once a very wealthy one, has suffered greatly since the suppression of religious com- munities in Spain, and is now inhabited by fom- or five poor, slovenly, exclau- sti-ado Carthusian monks, who are just tolerated and looked upon with hostile suspicion by that rival of the regular clergy, el cum. The railway is carried over an arch called Puerta de la Vieja, which was built by Eniique 111., but repah-ed in 1831. The site originally formed some hunting -gi-ounds called El Parque Real, which were purchased by Enrique III., who built the palace of Mirallores. At his death it was seen that, by his will, he had intended founding a monastery. Mucli opposi- tion was offered to the accomplishment of his vow, which was finally carried out by his son Juan II., who gi-anted the gi-oundsaud palace to the Carthusian order in 1442. The convent then built was burnt down to the gi'ound (1452), and the present one, designed by Juan de Colonia, whom Bishop Cartagena had brought with him for the works of the cathedral, was continued -with gi-eat activity and completed by Isabella, who, at the death of Juan de Colonia, employed his sons Simon and Matienzo. The style of the church is exceedingly simple, with pointed arched windows, and a few transition pinnacles and other details. The style of both the exterior and interior belongs to the florid Gothic, with somewhat of the plateresque. The exterior, with its worked-out flying but- tresses and pinnacles, is, however, rather bald. The principal fa9ade is deco- rated with the arms of Castile and Leon. The Interior is divided into tlu-ee por- tions, according to the nile observed by the Carthusian order in all its churches. One portion is allotted to the monks, the other to the legos (laitj'), and the third to the people, each railed in, and the two first with choirs and stalls. The A Itar was designed by Gil De Siloe and Diegc de la Cruz ; begun in 1486, finished in 1499. It was ordered by Queen Isabella, and gilt with the gold brought from America after the second joiirney of Columbus. It is quadrangular in sliape, and crowned by a circle foniied of saints, and in the centre are scenes from the 86 BU RGOS — C AllT U JA . Passiou. Before it is a crucifix, of little merit. Over the sagrario is a Virgin in an lira, which, being placed on a wlieel, revolves, presenting seven scenes of the Scripture, sculptured upon its seven sides. The Tomhs are the principal sight in the convent, and may be ranked among the finest in Europe. In the centre of the nave is the tomb of Juan II., and that of Queen Isabella of Por- tugal. The mausoleums are octagonal in shape ; sixteen lions, two at each angle, support eight escutcheous bearing the royal arms from the base ; the sides, upper angles, etc., are crowded with numerous statuettes under filigree cano- pies, open-worked leaves, and fruit, be- sides numberless birds and other animals, and the whole charmingly composed and executed with such delicacy of de- tail and abundance of subjects, that la vista scpie^'de aiaongst all that intricacy. The statues are in a recumbent attitude. Observe the wonderful workmanship of the cushions and robes, as well as the sitting figures of the four Evangelists, and the gi'oup of a lion, dog, and child at the queen's feet. Close to these tombs, in a recess in the wall, is that of their son, Don Alfonso (ob. 1470, ajt. 16), who, at his death, was succeeded by his sister Isabella. The Infante is kneeling ; a vine, from around which children are hanging, whilst the/ are plucking the gi'apes, winds in festoons round the Gothic arch which frames that poetical composition. There are also numberless specimens from the vegetable and animal kingdoms, fruit, branches, leaves of all sorts, etc., all admirably executed. These tombs, raised by Isabella to the memory of her sires and brother, were designed by Gil de Siloe, who began them in 1489, and finished them in 1493 ; they cost G02, 406 luaravedis. The stalls in the first choir, close to the altar, are of walnut, and decorated only with leaf ornaments. The prior's stall, with its Gothic cajiopy, is fine ; it dates from 1488, and is the work of ^Martin Sanchez. The second choir, coro de los legos, has stalls more elaborately worked and benieguete-like in the style and execution — (1558) — by Simon Bueras. The rctahlo over the high altar is a grand composition, with .subjects from our Saviour's life ; at the bottom, on each side, are kneeling effigies of the king and queen. There is a crowd of subjects and figiu-es on either side of the tabernacle ; above this latter is the Assumption of the Virgin ; and above, a circle formed of clustered angels. In the centre stands a fine Crucifix, sui-mounted by the allegorical subject of the Pelican, vulning her breast. The sculpture is excellent tliroughout, and does credit to Maestro Gil de Siloe, who designed it (1496-99), and executed most of it, the rest being the work of Diego de la Cruz. The elaborate reja is by Santillana. The painted glass is not veiy remarkable, though expressly made in and brought from Flanders in the 15th centiuy. The burial-ground is truly a 'champ du repos' — nay, of oblivion and neglect. 419 Carthusian monks lie there in death as they lived, humble and forgotten, without a name or a date, amongst the weeds, and shaded by some tall and sombre cypresses, which raise up their arrowy and motionless spires into the blue heavens. All is calm and quiet there, and silence is only interrupted by the trickling tear-like drops of water from a fountain in the centre. Weeds grow thick and quick around graves in Spain ; in that land of sun and blue sky, shadows do not linger long over the heart, and the poor dead are soon forgotten. Visit the cells and adjoining gardens and workshops of the monks. In a chapel is a fine statue of the founder of the order, St. Bruno, by JIanuel Perey« ra, whitb. was formerly in the cathedral CACERES. 87 San Pedro de Cardena is a convent of the Benedictine order, founded by Queen Sancha, mother of the Gothic Theodoric. In the time of Alfonso el Casto (9 th century), tlie Moors, during one of their forays, razed the edifice to the ground, and killed 200 monks who inhabited it. It was a favourite convent \\\i\\ the Cid, and at his dying request (1099), his body was conveyed hither, and buried before the high altar, together with his faithful Jimena. Y a San Pedro de Cardena Mando que m: cuerpo lleven, etc. Romancero. The empty monimient now stands in a small side-chapel ; on the stone pedestal are placed the effigies of the great hero and Jimena, side by side in death as they had lived. On the upper part is an inscription, placed by order of Al- fonso the Learned. On the walls are blazoned the escutcheons of the Cid's relatives and companions in arms. But the convent has been modernised ; this very chapel only dates from 1736, and on the whole we do not advise tourists to undergo the dreary drive across wind- blo^sTi, rocky downs for this edilice, of which little remains of former day.s. CACERES (ESTREMADURA). Capital of province of same name ; pop. 14,466. Routes to — 1st, from Merida, by rail or riding : distance, 72 kil. One train per day ; 1st cl., Pes. 10.0 ; 2d cl., 7.50; 3d cl., 5.05. But riding over all this country to be preferred if possible. On leaving Merida, a Roman aqueduct repaired and carry- ing water to the town : through an uninteresting tract of country, reach the miserable hamlets of Alguccu, and its stream ; skirt the Sierra de San Pedro, and Casas de Don Antonio. Close to latter, 6 miles distant, lies the town of Montanches, celebrated for its hams, jamones, the most succulent in Spain ; along with those of the Alpu- jarras, they were great favourites with Charles V. during his ' Retiro' at Yuste. iluch of their delicacy was then as- cribed to the different sorts of reptiles which it was supposed constituted the ordinary food of the Jlontanches pigs. Acorns are certainly not abundant in this part of the country. Cross tho rivers Ayxiela and Fdo Salar. 2d, From Badajoz by rail vid Merida, or by riding, thus — Badajoz to Caceres, 14 leagues. (If riding, take a local guide, as then you cross the Puerto de Sancho Caballo, whilst by galeras that of Clovin is traversed.) Badajoz to Roca . . .6 Puebla de Ovando . .1 C'^ceres .... 7 In a long day's ride, leagues . 14 A league after leaving Badajoz the Ebora is crossed by a fine bridge, then the Ribera de Periquoitos is forded. The other rivers which the traveller meets are, the Ayuella, 2^ leagues be- fore arriving at Caceres, and tho Salar, half-a-league. The Ribera del Saltillo has to be forded near Puebla de Ovando, a village of 371 inhabitants, also called El Zangano, which name would reflect no flattering credit on the inhabitants 3d, By TrujiUo. riding from Naval moral. Tnijillo to Venta de Masilla, leagues 3 Caceres .... 5 3 Across hills planted with oaks ; the rivers Magusca and Tameja are crossed. CACERES. Reached by galeras or riding. In both tours take a local guide, and attend to the provender. 4th, From Madrid. By the recently opened Tagus Railroad vid Tonijos, Talavera de la Reina, ISTavalmoral and Arroyo (change) ; distance, 347 kil. ; 1 train per day; 10 hrs. ; fares, 1st cl., pes. 42.40; 2d cl., 30.65; Leganes, a large lunatic asylum ; Torrijos, 2000 inhab. in a damp and fever-stricken dis- trict. A Palace of Altamira contains some fine mudejar artevonado ceilings. Talavera de la Beina. Hotels: Amistad, Petra Ferrer, both fair. This, the Roman Tala-Briga, is now a decayed city deserving of a better fate, for it is charmingly situated on the Tagus, which waters its verdurous vega and beautiful gardens and orchards. There are re- mains of the Roman circumvallation ; of the Moorish fortifications. The Torres Albarrouas, built lOtli cent, and of a Pagan temple, etc. An indifferent Gothic Ch. of Sta. Ma. la Mayor ; a much ruined bridge of 15th cent, built byCard. Mendoza ; a charming Alameda, and a Dominican Conveut with some fine tombs. On the hill to the left of the town, and on the ]\Iadrid road, was fought, 27th and 28th July 1 809, the cele- brated battle of Talavera, between the French under Marshals Victor, Jourdan, and King Joseph, and the Anglo-Span- ish army, under the great duke's per- sonal command. The French finally abandoned the field, losing 20 cannon, and 10,000 killed and wounded. Orojmsa, pop. 1880, a small and most decayed little town crowning an ilex and olive-clad hill. A dilapidated palace and castle, the pro2:)erty of the Duke de Frias. Navalmoral, pop. 3000. Here, if desired, the railway may be conveniently left, and Caceres reached by riding vid Trujillo. In this case Al- maraz is passed in li hrs. Here the Tagus is crossed. This little town gave a title to Lord Hill, who, IMay 18, 1812, ' conducted here with consummate abi- lity one of the most brilliant actions of the Peninsular War,' Avhich consisted in forcing the defile of La Cueva, cutting off Soult from Manuont, thus preparing the victory of Salamanca. At Jaraiccjo cross the river Almoute and reach Trujillo. Pop. 6800. Tinis Parador. This, the Turns Julia, be- cause said to have been founded by Julius Cissar, is built upon a granite hill, and is divided into the castle quarter, the old city, and the town proper. The chief curiosities are : — the Arch of Santiago, the Ch. of Sa. Ma. La Mayor, the pictvu-esque Plaza, Ch. of San Martin, Ch. and tombs of Sa. Ma. del Concepcion, the houses of Duke de San Carlos, and C-del Puerto. In La Concepcion note especially the tomb o* Pizarro. See also his house in the Plaza Caceres. — Inns — most indifferent — Posada de Antonio ; Fonda del Comer- cio. The climate is excellent ; the air pure and soft. The winter is scarcely felt, and lasts but a few weeks ; the mortality is 1.31. The country around is the most fertile in the j^rovince. The older portion of Caceres occupies the summit of the height on which the town is placed, and is flanked by old quaint massive walls with cuhos and five gates, of which latter that of La Estclla is the most interesting. The newer portion is built around the former, but slopes down to the plain, which is wa- tered by the ' caudaloso ' Marco. Though abounding with wine, com, fruit, and delicious hams and bacon, md rich succulent sausages of all kinds (which we recommend to the gastronomic tourist), Caceres, from its out-of-the way situation and want of roads, lies in an ignored nook of Estrcmadura, and is dull, lifeless, dirty, and sombre. The antiquaiy and artist will nevertheless not lack subjects worthy of attention. OACERES — ALCANTARA BRIDGE. 89 pen, and pencil ; not so much from any particular edifice, as for ' Prout'-bit nooks and corners, and private houses, all well preserved and strongly charac- terised, belonging to the feudal times, and bearing proud armorials. Do not fail to visit the Velctas, the Moorish Alcazar ; the houses of the Duque de Abrantes, Conde de la Torre, de los Gol- fines, de los Carbajales, etc. The jilaza is decorated with a Roman Ceres and a Di- ana (the head is modern) . There are, be- sides, the Bishop's Palace ; the Gothic cJmrch of Santa Maria, rebuilt in 1556, where notice the retablo of that period and the sepulchres of the Figueroas, Pare- des, etc. ; San Mateo, in the upper or older town, close to house de los Veletas, and the work of Pedro de Ezquerra (its tower and tombs) ; and in Santiago a fine reja (1563). The bull-ring, all of granite, and situated N. W. of the town, is a magnificent building sui generis. There are antiquities constantly dug up and reburied in the ' Dehesa de los Arrogates' 3 leagues off. Caceres was founded, 74 B.C., by Q. C. Metellus, and named by him Castra Csesaris, whence its present name is derived. Excursion to Alcantara. — A 6 hi'.s.' ride, amid wild oaks and dehesas, by Brozas. Alcdntara. — Pop. 4000. On a rocky height over the Tagus, and girdled by walls 6 met. high and 2 met. wide. Al- Kantarah (the bridge in Arab. ) was the Norba Cocsarea of the Romans, and belonged subsequently to the military order of Alcantara, to Avhom it was granted by Alfon.so IX. of Castile, in 1212. Visit the Convent of San Benito, built in 1506, and enlarged and em- bellished by Philip II. Observe, over and above the collateral .altar, some fine pictures by Morales, who must be studied in Estremadura, his native land. Also notice the seiailchresof the knights, the cloisters, etc. Tho grciit lion here k the Bridge, a wonderful work built foi Trajan, a.d. 105, by the architect Caiua Julius Lacer, who was buried near it. It was repaired by that other great em- peror, Charles V., in 1543. It consists of six arches, varying in size, and is entirely built with blocks of granite, without cement ; the Midest arches in the centre have a span of 50 ft. ; the length is 620 ft.; the height 190 ft. There is a tower in the middle some 13 met. high. The second arch on the right bank was blown up in 1809 by Col. Mayne, was repaired in 1812 by Col. Sturgeon, and destroyed a second time in 1836 ; it has never been lepaired since, and the river is crossed in a ferry- boat, and this near and under one of the grandest engineering works of the Romans in Spain, which it is a na- tional duty to jireserve as a monument, and a government's obligation to make available. A decent Casa de huespedes, kept by Don Cisto Pena, near the Plaza de Toros, and a tolerable posada, Nueva de la Viuda. Excursion to Plasencia, by rail ; or by road including Alcantara. Ithterary. Leagues Caceres to Malpartida 2 Arroyo del Puerco . 1 Brozas .... 4l Alcantara (sleep) 3 Alcantara to Garrovillai! 5 Camaveral 2 Coria (sleep) . 4i Plasencia 9 Riding; take a local guide and pro vender. Interesting only to artists and ecclesiologists. Arroyo del Puerco. — Posada de la Cacerana. In the parish church are, or were till but very recently, sixteen very fine authentic and undefiled pic- tures by Morales. The subjects are, Clirist in the Garden, Bearing the 90 CACERES — CONVKNT OF YUSTE. Cross, the Aiuuuiciation, Nativity, Christ in Limbo, St. John, Saviour Bound, Descent, Buiial, Christ and Joseph of Ariniathea, Adoration of Kings, Circumcision, Ascension, Pen- tecost, Saviour with the Reed, St. Jerome. Alcdntara. — Vide p. 89. Coria. — Posada de Juan Lopez : in- different. Pop. 2500. Is the Roman Caurium, of which the walls still sub- sist, and are interesting ; they are 30 ft. high and 19 ft. thick on an average. Visit the Paredon, the Aqueduct, Torre de San Francisco, the Gothic Cathedral of granite, with a fine plateresque en- trance and quaintly carved stalls, dat- ing 1 489, and tombs of Bishop Galarza, Prescamo, Dona Catalina, Diaz, etc., most of them of the beginning of the IGth century and end of the 15th. Plasencia. — Inns : Nueva ; Fonda de las tres Puertas. 7000 inhabitants, bishop's see as well as Coria, on the banks of the Jerte and in the prov. of Caceres. The town is hooped in by a massive wall, built in 1197 by Alfonso VIII. of Castile, and strength- ened ■ by sixty-eight cubo towers and with si.x gates, all most picturesi^ue, and excellent specimens of mediaeval Castilian military engineering. Besides, on the N.E. side, and overlooking the rest, rose a strongly-built fortress, «of which the ruins subsist. The flint- made streets are straight, and the houses of the earlier periods are worth a visit, especially that of Marques de Miravel. Observe the gi-and staircase, the pillars and statues ; that of the JIarqucs de Santa Cruz de Paniagua (literally, bread and water), with a fine balcony. The principal sight is the Cathedral. It was built in 1498, and belongs to the florid Gothic ; but has been modernised and altered in several portions, while other parts have re- mained unfinished. Observe the fine S. entrance, the plateresque door, ' Puerta del Enlosado ; ' the interior is some- what disfigured by the over-sized pil- lars whii'h support the roof of the- central aisle ; notice more especially the colossal and fine reja del coro, 6 ft. high (16C4), by Celma ; the finely-carved Tedesque stalls by Aleman ; the retablo of the high altar, a masterpiece of Gregorio Hernandez (1626), four large pictures by Ricci ; the plateresque se- pulchres of Bishop Ponce de Leon and others. Besides the catheilral may be visited the Church of San Nicolas, with a fine tomb of Bishop Pedro de Carvajal ; San Ildefonso for the tomb of Cristobal de Villalba ; the Church of San Vicente for another of Martin Nieto (1597), etc. Prout-bits that will tempt the sketcher are not wanting about the cathedral, bi.shop's palace, etc. Antiquaries will study and trace from what remains the beautiful Ronuxn Via Lata, going from Merida to Salamanca, which is more strongly marked on nearing Merida and the Charca, where still subsist the military columns, 7 ft. high, generally well preserved. Excursion to Convent of Yuste. — Travellers desirous of visiting this out-of-the-way convent, the site of the refuge and death of Charles V., will do well to obtain beforehand information respecting the administrador of El Monasterio de San Geronimo de Yuste, at Cuacos, as changes are now taking place in the lesseeship of the convent, which has been recently pur- chased by the Marques de Miravel, and is undergoing repairs. Yuste lies some 8 leagues from Plasencia, across the Xerte, the Calzones hill, the charming valley of Vera, to pictur- esque Pasaron. Soon after the latter has been left, the Hieronymite Convent appears a little above the Magdalena farm, and near the small stream of the Yuste. Visit the Nogal Grande, a large walnut-tree, under which Charles used to sit ; his bedroom, where once hung Titian's Gloria, now at the Madrid Gallery, No. 462. In the chapel observe the finely-carved silleria by Mateo Aleman ; visit likewise the Plaza del Palacio, the sun-dial erected by Juanelo Turriana, the pleasure-grounds — saiiiy ne- -r> ^lAURU) TO rORDOVA.SEVIJ.lAX- ('.\])1Z AS]) M.\IAGAc^- GRANADA. Pulih»li»a bv .V^ CfiUick. Lando CADIZ. 91 giected — and its Cenador de Belem. The convent was sacked and almost destroyed by Soult's soldiers ; and the brutal peasants of Cuacos, the constant enemies of the convent even during Charles's life, have done the rest. In the vicinity of Yuste game abounds, such as deer, roebuck, wild boars, cabras montesas (chamois), and wolves. There is also some ex- cellent fishing about the Xerte, Yuste, etc. From or to Salamanca, 42 leagues by Ciudad Rodrigo. (See Salamanca.) Books of Reference. — ' Historia de Caceres con. sus Privilegios, ' by Ulloa y Golfin, MS. in Acad. Hist. (D. 49), the best work written on tliis city. Alcdnlara. — ' Descripoion de la sun- tuosa y eelebre Piiente de Alcantara ; ' 4to, MS., Bibl. Nacionale (vol. 159, fol. 96). Yicste. — 1. ' Fiindacion del Monas- terio de Yuste,' by Hernando del Cor ral, MS. of the 16th century, Bibl. of Escorial (L. j. 13, fol. 25), and Signon- za's ' Hist, of the Order of St. Jerome,' 2 vols., i., p. 29. 2. And for details on the life of Charles V. at Yuste, see ' History of the Order of St. Jerome,' by Siguenza, vol. i., p. 36; 'Cloister Life of the Em- peror Charles V.,' by Stirling, 1852, etc. ; Senor Tomas Gonzalez's important work, ' Retiro,' etc., extracted from do cuments at Simancas, and M. Mignet's ' Charles Quint.' etc., the last edition (1862), in which we have remarked very interesting new documents, not comprised in the former editions ; San- doval's ' Hist.' etc. CADIZ, Capital of province of the same name ; , bishop's see ; trading and military sea- i port. Pop. about 65,000. j Routes end Conveyances. — 1st, I From Maxlrid, by rail throughout, cros- sing Cordova, Seville, and Jerez ; dis- tance, 726 kil. ; time, 18-23 hrs. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 84.15; 2d cl., 64.10. From Madrid to Alcazar, the Alicante Railway is followed. Express leaves ^ iladrid Mon., Wed., and Fri. at 8.05 | r.M., and arrives in Cadiz at 2.54' next day. Returns Tues., Thurs. , and ' Sat. at 2.45 p.m. (For description of route see Alicante, Cordova, etc.) 2d, From Seville. A. By rail, 41 hours ; distance, 153 kil. For details see Seville and Jerez. B. By the river ; offices, Millan, Santo Cristo, 2. Time, 6^ to 7 hours ; see Seville (seldom adopted). 3d, From Cordova, 8 hours ; two trains ; distance, 285 kil. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 30.65 ; 2d cl., 22.70; 3d cl., 13.60. For details see Corcfora. 4th, From Malaga. A. By sea. See Malaga ; also advertisements in papers and bills. A pleasant route, calling either at Gibraltar or Algeciras. The best lines are the ' Hall ' (weekly) ; the Compania Trasatlantica (Lopez) once a month; the Segovia -Cuadra (bi- weekly) ; and the Compagnie Havraise Peninsular (every 10 days). The time, direct, is about 15 hours. B. By land, via Bohadilla, La Roda, Osuna, Utrcra, etc. ; or drive from Osuna to Moron, through an interesting country, and from thence take train to Seville. Also by rail through Montilla (finely situ- ated ; great sherry district ; birthplace of El Gran Capitan, Gonsalvo de Cor- doba), and from thence via Ecija and Marchena to Seville. 5th, From Lisbon. By John Hall and Company's boats, weekly, or by the fine steamers of the Ligne Penin- suluire. Also by numerous- coasting steamers. 6th, From Havre, by the boats of the 92 CADIZ — ROUTES. Compagnie Havraiso Peiiiusukiie twice a mouth. 7th, From Alicante, Cartagena, Barce- lona, Marseilles, etc. ; from the chief British ports — London, Liverpool, Bris- tol, Glasgow, Dublin, etc. ; from Genoa and Leghorn ; from the ports of Ger- many and Denmark — with all these there is constant steam communication. Address in Cadiz to Alcon and Co., Calle de la Aduana, 16 ; Joaquin del Cuvillo, Calle San Pedro, 2 ; Sons of Thos. Haynes, Calle Nueva, 2 ; D. Mac- pherson, San Gines, 4, or Jose Esteban Gomez, Calle Marguia, 35. Cadiz, Barcelona, and Bilbao are the most important ports in Spain, and the points of departure and centres of com- munication for vessels going to and fro between all parts of the world. The principal lines leaving or touching here are the following : — The Hamburg Pacific line and the Cosmos line for Rio Janeiro, Monte Video, and other ports of Central and South America ; The National Steamship Company for New York and Boston — agent, D. Macphersou ; the Spanish mail service (twice a month) to the Canary Isles (Santa Cruz, Teneriffe), also to West Africa, the Philippine Islands, etc. ; The Compaiiia Transatlantica (Lopez line) for Puerto Rico, Habana, Colon, and the Pacific ports ; as also for Manila, Singapore and the East ; oihce of the Company, Isabel la Catolica, 3 ; the coasting steamers of Ibarra and Co. to Malaga, Barcelona, and Marseilles, also to Lisbon, Santander, and Bilbao. Tourists at Cadiz, however, are most interested in the routes to or from Gibraltar, by sea and land. A. By sea. The first-class occasional steamers are not to be depended upon. The Compania Transatlantica run boats three times a week between Cadiz, Tangier, and Gibraltar, leaving Cadiz on Monday, "Wednesday, and Friday, and returning from Gibraltar and Tangier on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday ; while the boats of Hall's line pass from Gibraltar weekly (agents, Calle San Pedro, 2). The time occupied by the voj^age is 8-9 hours, and as the start from Cadiz is made about 7 A.M. it is a great convenience, if the per- mission can be obtained, to go on board overnight. The accommodation is good, in the case of the larger steamers, and one avoids thereby the early rising at the hotel, and the awkward chartering of a small boat from the Muelle, with the accompany- ing struggle over the luggage. The trip is a very pleasant one when the weather is fine, the Spanish coast being rarely lost sight of. The first thing to attract attention is the peculiar situa- tion of Cadiz, of which an excellent idea may be obtained while slowly, as if reluctantly, the city is being left be- hind. Then comes the Isla of San Fer- nando, and a long stretch of low-lying, sandy coast, varied, however, by fine views of the uprising inland country about Chiclana, etc. By the time Cape Trafalgar is sighted (sec B., p, 94), the Straits may bo said to have been reached, and henceforward there is no lack of interest. Tangier is seen lying far away to the right ; while on the left appears Tarifa, with its white- washed houses, its imposing but tooth- less fortifications, and its lighthouse apparently set in the midst of the sea. The African coast-line is now extremely picturesque, stretching from Cape Spar- tel to the Apes' Hill over Ceuta, and with the gray mass of the Gibraltar rock rising up full in view. For further description of the route, see p. 150. CADIZ — ROUTES, 93 B. By land. Two routes ; one crosses Algeciras and Tarifa, the other leaves these on the left, and cuts across Los Barrios, CasaVieja, Medina Sidonia. The first continues along the sea-coast, and is practicable only during some seasons. It traverses Tarifa and Trafalgar, and is to be preferred when ladies are in the case. The second is shorter, wilder, and crosses a woody portion of country. First Itinerary. Miles. Gibraltar to Algeciras 9 Tarifa .... 12 Venta de Taibilla . i6 Venta de Vejer ... 14 Chiclana . 16 Cadiz ... - 13 So The ride to Tarifa is 9 to 10 hrs. Leave San Roque to the right, follow the sands and bay. Algeciras. — Pop. 18,216 inhab., prov. of Cadiz. This Portus Albus of the Romans, and the Erin, the Green Island (Jeziratu-1-Khadra), of the -Moor, a name which has been preser\xd to the hla Verde, also called de las Palomas, was strongly fortified by the Moors, and suffered se.-eral sieges, until it was taken in 1344 by Al- fonso XL The capture was considered of great importance, and the see of Cadiz was removed here by a bull of Clement VL, the bishops being henceforth, and still, ' of Cadiz and Algeciras,' and the kings of Spain were styled ' Reyes del Algecira.' It was retaken 1379 by Mahomet II. of Granada, and destroyed, not to be rebuilt before 1760, under Charles III., as a watch- tower to spy the doings oi perJJda A Ibion. The town is straggling, the streets dirty and silent ; the houses with low balconies and rejas closely latticed, jalousies indeed, worthy of the former Moor and irritable hidalgos. The port might be made excellent ; but alas ! altnough facing Gibraltar, where all is trade, activity, order, and improvement, there are here neither moles, quays, nor works of defence, for the pasteboard fort and few guns which we see are only a use- less show. There is a Plaza, with a paltry statue of Castanos, field-marshal and Duke of Baylen, a small theatre, some barracks, and an indifferent church. Algeciras might become, from iu situation, one of the most flourishing ports in Spain ; there is some trade with Africa and the ports on the coast, the exports and im- ports averaging some £fio,ooo annually. The oranges of Algeciras are exquisite, and next to them the greatest attraction here is the fair sex, who are celebrated for their beauty. A new railway line from Bobadilla, vi& Ronda, is in course of construction. There are two poor inns here, the ' Victoria ' and the 'Marina.' The road between this and Tarifa is wild and beautiful, and from the hills the view sweeps over the bay, to the proud and majestic Pefloti de Gibraltar, the cork-tree forest (alcornoques), the boiling Guadalmacil rushing through and lighting it up with flashes of sunlit water on the left, and before us, and to the right, the ocean, unfurl- ing its wide tranquil sheet of water between Africa and Europe, like an illuminated, gilt- edged page, bearing some of the greatest deeds of man : for these shores have witnessed the battles of Munda and Trafalgar, also the land- ing of the Berber, the merchants of Tyre and Sidon, the departure of Columbus, foreshadow- ing the discovery of a new world. {Algeciras to Gibraltar, see p. 152.) Tarifa. — Pop. 11,863 inhab., W. of the Bay of Gibraltar, is the most Moorish-looking town in all Spain. The women are celebrated for their grace and beauty They wear the man- tilla, as the Egyptians the tob and Kliabarah, — and, at Lima, the tapadas, that is leaving only one eye discovered, of which each flash is a puiialada from which few are said to recover. It is said to have been built by the Phoenicians, and then called Cartanta and Tartesia ; it be- came a Greek colony, and was raised to a Colo- nia Libertina by the Romans, being colonised by 4000 sons of Roman soldiers and Spanish women, not their wives, and called ynlia Tra- ducta. It obtained its present name from Tarif-Ben-Malik, the first Berber sheikh who landed in Spain. After a long siege it was cap- tured, 1292, by Sancho IV. Alfonso Perez de Guzman, an ancestor of the Empress Eugenie, was entrusted with its defence. It was besieged by the Moors, aided by the treacherous Infante Don Juan, who, to cause Don Alfonso to sur- render, brought the latter's son to the foot of the walls, and threatened to kill him if his father did not give up the city ; seeing which Don Alfonso, according to the old ballad — ' Luego tomando el cuchillo, Por cima el muro lo ha echado. Junto cay<5 del real De que Tarifa es cercado, Dijo : ' Matadlo con esta, Sulo habeis determinado. Que mas quiero honra sin hijo. Que hijo con mi honor manchado.' TTie bon was put to death, but the Moors retired, and Tarifa was saved. But the story, as ob- tianed from the ' Ilustraciones de la Casa de Niebla' of Barrantes Maldonado(Bibliot. Acad. Hist, of Madrid), and other authentic sources, reconciles us with the father's heroism. This celebrated battle of El Salcde, between 94 CADIZ — ROUTES. the kings of Castile and Portugal against the Moors, took place under its walls. Its old nails and gates, and twenty-six towers, its nanow winding streets, low houses, balconies full of llower-vases, are all Oriental, novel, and picturesque. The Guzman Castle will tempt the sketcher. The panorama from the Tower of Peila del Ciet-'o is among the grandest in Spain. Africa lies opposite, Tangier a little to the right Tarifa comes out into the open sea on the left, at a distance, and the headland yonder to the right is Cape Trafalgar. After crossing Venta de Taivilla, a mile inland is the Laguna de ynnda. Here the Berbers first met the disorganised armies of Roderick, the last of the Goths, July 19, 711 ; the action not being decided till the 26th, on the Guadalete, near Jerez. After crossing Vejer, the Moorish Bekker, which re- tains all its African character and comforts, the scenerj' becomes monotonous and drearj'. We come in sight of the Cabo de Trafalgar [Tarnf- al-ghdr, the promontory of the cave), and Pro- tnontoriuiii yuiwtiis of the Romans. In these waters took place, Oct. 21, 1805, the celebrated battle of Trafalgar. Nelson, at the head of twenty-seven small ships of the line and four frigates, encountered the French fleet under Villeneuve and the Spanish under Gravina, both of thirty-three sail of the line, and seven frigates. The secret of the victory lay in Nelson's novel manoeu\Ting, an inspiration of genius. He divided his fleet into two compact columns, so as to bear at once on the same point of resistance. He thus succeeded in breaking the line of battle of Villeneuve, who, as well as Gravina, had scat- tered his ships, isolating them too much from each other. The fighting on all sides was most heroic. Nelson was mortally wounded, and died 2j hours after receiving his wound, but lived long enough to see his triumph. On his deathbed, Gravina (who died shortly after from his wounds) told Dr. Fellowes that he was going to join Nelson, the ' greatest man the world has ever produced.' Chiclana, and on to Cadiz. See No. 2 Itiner- ary. Sleep at Vejer ; a decent inn near the bridge over the Barbate. The journey can be performed in two days. San Fernando Cadiz . I.^eafjues 3 Itinerary Second. Gibraltar to Los Barrios Venta de Ojen Venta Lobalbarro Taivilla .... Retin Vejer .... Ctjckna. .... Leagues. It has been performed in one long day, trot- ting part of the journey, but can be easily ridden in two, sleeping at Casavieja. Leave Gibral- tar at 7.30; if much luggage, send pack-horse earlier to Spanish custom-house with keys, to avoid delay. Follow the beach ; avoid San Roque, leave Algeciras to the left, and make for Rio Guadarranque, along a tramway con- structed to carrj' timber to the arsenal of Car- racas from the Sierra de Almorayma. By 12 at noon get to Venta and stream de la Polvor- eda, which is good 4A leagues from Gibraltar Lunch in the wood or at the tidy little Venta, and get in between five and six to the Gil Bias sort of inn at Ca.savieja, on the Barbate. Around this hamlet there is excellent shooting, and offi- cers of the gairison at Gibraltar often visit it. Leave next morning at eight ; Vejer is seen ir. the distance to the left, which is not worth visit- ing, and about 11.30 to 12 a.m. get to fool of the hill on which Medina Sidonia rises ; \ hr. to ascend. This old town, the A sido of the Romans, and RIedinairu Schidunah, the city of Sidon, or Phoenician Asidon, was a stronghold during the wars between the Moors and Chris- tians, and the court of the puissant dukes of the same name {now belter known as Marqueses de Villafranca), one of whom commanded the In- vincible Armada. The ruins of its Castle de la Mota are associated with early amorous Span- ish ballads. Here was confined the favourite of Alfonso XL, and here also Pedro el Cruel shut up the fair and Ill-fated Blanche de Bour- bon. But, except for its picturesque, airy situation, we do not advise travellers to visit it. Its churches are clumsy, its streets narrow, steep, and dirty. Ladies may be, perhaps, glad to know that they may leave their horses here, if they choose, and take a calcsa on springs, and a small dil. leaves also for La Isla (office, Calle San Juan), daily in summer, and in winter only on ^Iondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. The road is excellent to Chiclana. From Medina to La Lsla, 4 hrs. Chiclana. — 0004 inhab. ; an old Phcenician town, conquered from the Moors by St. Ferdi- nand, in 1251, and rebuilt by Alfonso Perez de Guzman, 1303. There are some sulphureous baths at Fuente Amarga and Pozo de Braque, between June and October. It is a favoiunte resort with the Cadiz lower classes, and a great bull-fighting centre, being the patria of the celebrated Chiclalncro, Monies' rival There CADIZ — THE CITY. 95 is a gcod and ver>- decent large Fonda in the square, and numerous vehicles, caleches, and omnibuses to the station at La Isla (San Fer- nando), J hr. N.B.—A daily dil. for Gibraltar leaves San Fernando Stat, at 6.30 a.m., passing by Chiclana, Vejer, Tarifa and Algeciras. The Administraciones in Cadiz and San Fernando also let out carriages and horses for the joumev. CITY .\RMS OF CADIZ. Cadiz is one of the most charmingly situated cities in the -n-orltl. It lies at one extremity of a long peninsula, and is joined to the continent on tlie S. by a very narrow strip of land. It rises, as the poet says, over the dark blue sea, as if by a faiiy's wand, with its shining white walls, its long rows of elegant houses, crowned with terraces, with glass and gilt balconied miradores. In the centre rise the high towers of its cathedral. It may be compared to a white pearl set in a crown of sapphires and emeralds, or, as the Gaditanos call it, ' tazita de plata, ' a silver cup, just as Babylon was likened to a cup of gold (Jer. li. 7). Walk round its granite ramparts, the iluralla del Mar, a series of spacious terraces, which form a de- lightful evening paseo ; sail across its busy bay, the outlines of which have the greatest beauty ; traverse its streets, Dutch — clean, and formed by high, brightly - coloured, and gay - looking houses, with azoteas or terraces, and a turret oftentimes or belvedere at an angle. There is movement and life on the quays, port, and in the town. Cadiz, once the emporium of the world, must, from its very situation, recover some day part at least of its former prosperit}'. By the ocean it communi- cates with Portugal, the Gallician ports, France, Englanil, Holland, and is one of the European ports nearest to, and best placed for, the trade with America. By the straits it is in the neighbourhood of the principal ports of iloroeco, Algier.s, Italy, the east and south of France. A lengthened residence in Cadiz ma)', in the end, appear monotonous to the invalid and traveller, as there is but little societj', and, consequently, no gieat variety of faces, topics of convei-sation, or those petty events which are, after all, ' la grande att\xire' of the man of pleasure. Some intimate tertulias at the hos- pitable merchants' houses, the play at the tolerable theatre, and a chit-chat or almost solitary lecture at the com- fortable casino ; a ball, perhaps two subscription dances at the casino, ex- cursions to Puerte Sta. Maria, Jerez, Rota, etc. — this is all that must be expected. For there is little art ; the architecture of houses, churches, and public edifices is mostly modern, paint- ings are rare, and, as the witty French- man said, ' ici les lettres de change sont les belles lettres,' and the only man of letters one cares to see is the postman, el cartero. But Cadiz, in a more positive sense, affords many com- forts, which continued intercourse with foreigners, especially English, has in- troduced, and that are unknown in the more inland and larger Spanish cities. 96 CADIZ. HisTOKiCAL Notice. — Cadiz was the ' ultima terrre, ' the Biblical Tarshish, the fortunate Erythrea and Island of Juno, the happy Iberian region of Homer, Anacreon, etc. It is conjec- tured that shortly after the destruction of Troy, some Phcenician traders sailed in search of new debouches along the coast of the Mediterranean, and came as far as Cadiz. Here, they thought, were the limits of the world, and here, probably, almost ended the sea, Africa being separated from the European con- tinent by a very narrow channel ; they therefore erected, more sico, two high pyi'amids, on the promontories of Aby- la (Ceuta) and Calpe (Gibraltar), ex- tending in subsequent times their jour- ney as far as Gaddir. Gaddir now became an important trading port. A magnificent temple was erected to the Lybian Hercules. Gaddir, when the Carthaginians became powerful, be- trayed its rulers, siding ^vith the former. It fell likewise an easy prey to the Romans. The first colonia was established 171 B.C. Caesar considered its situation most important, fortified it, and made it the head of Tingitane, or Transpetane Spain ; its inhabitants enjoyed all the privileges of free Roman citizens, and it was called Augusta Urbs, and Julia Gaditana. Cadiz and Seville were then important naval arsenals. Cjesar says : ' Naves longas decern Gaditanis ut facerent imperavit ; com- plures praeterea Hispali faciendas cu- ravit.' Under the Eomans Cadiz be- came the emporium of the world ; its salt-fish monopol}^, most of the tin of England and amber of the Baltic, its marble palaces, amphitheatres, and aque- ducts (that of Terapul especially) ; its Via Lata, which went to Rome by Seville, Merida, Ciudad Rodrigo, Salamanca, Leon, south of France and Italy ; its merchant princes, its fleets of war and of commerce, have all been sung by the poets of Rome, and praised by ita writers. It was the Venice of mediaeval Europe, the Paris of our days, was in- habited by 500 Roman equites, which Rome alone and Padua could boast of possessing — more the city, say Martial and Juvenal, of Venus than of Diana, the gasti'ononiic purveyor of the Lu- culli and other Brillat Savarins ot Rome, renowned for its ballet-girls, the improbce GadUance, whose move- ments turned every head. In the 5th century it fell into the hands of the Goths, and in the 8th into those of the Arabs, who called it Djezi- rah-Kadis, and retained it in their power for upwards of 500 years. It was retaken by Don Alfonso the Learned, September 14, 1262, rebuilt by him, and peopled with families brought from the moun- tains of Santander, Laredo, etc., a sad mixture with the Attic ' Sal de Anda- lucia. ' Its prosperity revived with the discovery of America, being made with Seville the entrepot of its gold and merchandise. In 1509, Queen Dona Juana, by suppressing the monopoly which Seville enjoyed of sending fleets to the Indies, added gi-eatly to its wealth and importance, and Barbarossa, at the head of a fleet of piratical galleys, at- tacked the city, gorged, as he knew, with gold. It was saved by Doria's activity ; but the pirates of Algiers and Morocco never lost sight of the treasure, and attacked it oftentimes after, espe- cially in 1553 and 1574, when it was almost taken, and saved only by chance — that Providence of fools and the imprudent. In 1587 Cadiz was attacked by Drake, who destroyed its ships and dockyards, and was cruelly sacked iu 1596 by Lord Essex, the booty amounting to thirteen ships of war, and forty enormous galleons loaded with American gold, etc. Two subse- quent English attacks, in 1625 and 1702, failed before a well-armed gar- aiDIZ — CLIMATE. 97 rison, aud througli ill-planned and worse executed manoeuvres. During the Peninsular war, Cadiz was made the centre of the Spanish resistance, and seat of its celebrated Cortes. Its ivealth and commercial importance were very gi-eat, even as recently as the mid- dle and end of the last ceuturJ^ Every banking and mercantile house in the globe had its agents here. Adam Smith, in 1770, wrote that the merchants of London had not yet the means to com- pete with the wealth of those of Cadiz. In 1792, the gold and silver imported from America to this port amounted to 125 millions ; the general importations being that year (from America alone) 175 millions. Its arsenal employed upwards of 5000 men, and the ' Cales' or 'Calliee' of the English enjoyed a world-wide reputation. The war of 1793 was the first blow dealt to its prosperity ; the independence of the Spanish colonies, the second ; French invasion, inti'igues, and civil war have done the rest. But its importance not depending on the whim of a monarch or the caprice of an hour, but resting on the more solid advantages aud favours of situation and climate, will, we have no doubt, come back, when rail- ways, religious tolerance, and liome, not foreign colonisation have borne their fruit. Climate. — Cadiz lies open to every wind, which consequently exposes it to sudden and frequent changes in the temperature. The most prevalent winds come from the sea. According to D. Francis, the land winds, ranging be- tween N. to S.E., prevailed during 109 days, and the sea winds (S. S. W. by W. ) during 240 days, — based on 5 years' observations. The maximum preva- lence of the sea winds is during the spring : the land winds reach it in win- ter. Their influeuce on the thermo- meter is indift'erent ; they give tone to phlegmatic constitutions, aud last some- times five or sLx days. The Levanter, soft and invigorating at Malaga and Valencia, is here hurtful to weak con- stitutions, and precursory of storms and rain. The sirocco (S.E.) is as bad, and the thermometer .rises under its in- fluence six to seven degi-ees. The nervous system is excited, irritated, and the sick sufter gi'eatly during its prevalence. But as to temperature, Cadiz is supe- rior to any medical station both in Italy and Spain. ' The mean temperatuie of winter, ' says Dr. Francis, ' is four de- grees warmer than Rome or Naples, and six than that of Pisa. The same may be said of spring, the temperature of which being 60 '28 Fahr., exceeds that of Rome and Pisa by three degrees and two ; the mean diurnal range is ten, being identical with Madeira.' Sum- mer is very tolerable, owing to the constant sea-breezes, and the tem- perature is as soft and warm in the end of February as it is in the end of March m the most favoured of other Spanish medical stations. Autumn is less subject than other seasons to sud- den changes, and as to winter, Decem- ber and Januarj'', the coldest winds never bring down the thennometer under 41" Fahr. Cadiz is more rainy than any part of the Mediterranean coast of Spain, but this statement need not deter invalids from choosing it as a residence, for the average number of rainy days is 99, the quantity of rain 22 in., and at Madeira the quantity of rain exceeds considerably that at Cadiz, though it is not so fre- quent. It seldom lasts here but a few hours, and, as Lee and others say, is made up of showers, with intervals of sunshine. A curious fact arises from a compaiative study of rain in England, Italy, and Spain — viz. that while the rainy da^-s in England are more frequent, H \)>< CADIZ. the quantity tliat falls is greater in Italy aud Spain. In a word, Cadiz is one of the most fiivoured medical stations in Spain, and that which unites most advantages to general invalids. Its defects are, variabilit}' and the sirocco, hut these do not afl'ect constitutions seriously, except in cases of irritable nervousness. Tlie ■water supply is now excellent, an ad- vantage shared by most Spanish cities ; and although the death-rate is high, — 45 per thousand, — it must be remem- bered that the excessive infant mortal- ity, arising from want of proper treat- ment, accounts in a great measure for the bad return. Hotels. — De Paris, Plaza del Orato, Plaza San Francisco, and Calle Vargos Ponce ; a new house, excellent. Hotel clc France, Plaza Mina ; and Hotel dc Cadiz, Plaza de la Constitucion, both good and well situated. Pension from 10 pes. Fonda Suiza, Calle Duque de Tetuan, fair. Cafes. — Ccrxeceria Inglcsa, Gadi- tano, both in Plaza de la Constitucion ; 'El Tinte,' Plaza de Mina; Maier, Calle Zorilla. Baths. — Oriental, Calle Marzal, 29; also warm sea-water. Sea-water baths may be had at the establishments on the Alameda de Apodaca and at the Muelle. Tariff /or hired Carriages. Carriages of the first-class (large caleches) ; First hour .... 2or. Second and every other . i^i. No course. Carriages of the fecond class :— First hour . . . . i^T. Second and every other . lor. Street cabs, one horse, 8 reals per hour and course. Hired horses may be had at El Picadero, Plaza del Balon. Telegraph Office. — Open day and night, at the Admin. Principal, Alameda Apodaca. Post Office. — Admin. Principal, Calle de Sacramento, 1. The hours depend a good deal on those of the trains, and so are apt to vary. For paste restante business, from 11 to 12 A.M. and 2 to 3 p.m. For apartado an hour and a half after the arrival of the mails. For registered letters 11 to 3, aud 8 to 9 in the evening. There are also boxes in all the Estancos, railway company's offices and stations. The general mail leaves at 5.30 a.m., aud arrives at 7.35 p.m. For ship -mails see special announcements. For Directory, Consuls^ Addresses, etc., seep. 101. Tariff for Boats. — To and from steamers, 4r. a person, 3r. a portman- teau. Pay the porters, called here de- maudaderos, for a portmanteau carried from mole to custom-house, 4r. ; from custom-house to any j)art of town, 2r. each parceL Steamers to Moguer, 8 hrs. ; ditto to Huelva, 9 hrs. Neither are of great interest. Palos, a port near Moguer, is celebrated for the convent of la Puibida, which received Columbus in 1484, and whose prior, Perez de !Rlarchena, en- couraged him to follow liis plans and ideas. Columbus having discovered America, returned to this port March 15, 1493. The convent has been very much improved lately by the Due de Montpensier. The Port, Bay, and Trade. — Tlie entrance to this magnificent bay lies between the citj' and the small town and cape of Rota. The bay is most spaci- ous, and affords excellent anchorage in the inner portion, the outer one being exposed to the S.W. The port is placed on the E. side of the town, where three moles project — that of 'Sevilla' in front of the custom-house ; the Muelle deJ CADIZ — CATHEDRALS. 99 Puerto Piojo, wliicli leads into the city tlirougli the Puerta de San Carlos, and the ' Principal, ' close to the Puerta de Tieira, another of the four principal entrances to Cadiz (the two others are Puerta de Sevilla and Puerta de la Caleta, which leads to the castle and lighthouse (S.AV. of San Sebastian). This Principal is of considerable extent, and has been recently prolonged by some 550 ft. The water is not sufficiently deep to allow large vessels to approacli nearer than ^ of a mile, where five and seven fathoms are reached. There are some dangerous rocks opposite the town ; the ' Cochinos ' and ' Puercas ' lie f ths of a mile ; the 'Diamante' lies 1^ m. off the city, and is not so dangerous. At spring- tide the water rises 10 or 11 ft., but often does not exceed 6 ft. The inner bay is divided naturally from the outer one by the promontory, having at its extremity the castle of Matagorda, which approaches within | of a mile of the Puntales castle on the Isla de Leon. In the inner portion is the arsenal of Carracas, and the small ' Poblacion de San Carlos,' a naval depot, established 1776, on the plans of Marq. de Urena. Here is a fine naval college, and the Panteon de Mariuos llustres, the Alpha and Omega, the cradle and the tomb. In its cliapel arc preserved an image of the Virgen del Rosario, which Don Juan of Austiia caiTied on liis galley at Lepanto, and a chalice with his crest and arms. Here is also the canal of TroccuUro, celebrated for the Aictory of Duke of Angouleme in 1823. The trade is gradually reviving ; railroads com- municating ^vith central Spain, new lines of steamers plj'ing between the principal Spanish and foreign poi-ts, manufactories arising here and there, banks and credit companies being daily established, will tend to increase it. The number of ships of all nationalities entered at the port is about 2300, of the aggregate tonnage of 1,235,381 ; 327 of these being British vessels. The chief exports are — cork, about 30,000 kilos; figs, about 1,000,000 kilos; lead, in bars, about 400 tons ; olives and olive oil, to a very large amoimt ; salt, about 25,000 tons ; and wine, about 63,000 butts ; also oranges (220 tons), raisins and other fruits. The chief imports are — coal, about 53,000 tons ; iron, about 2000 tons ; wheat, 11,000,000 kilos ; also spirits (chiefly for adulterative purposes), tobacco, sugar, machinery, etc., to a very large amount. See Geiieral Information, Wines, etc. Sights. — Cathedral (the old and new) ; Convent de los Capuchinos (Mu- rillos) ; excursions to Puerto Sta. Maria, Rota, etc. Cathedkal. — The old cathedral. La Vieja, now abandoned for the new one, was built in the 13th century, in Alfonso II. 's reign, and by him erected to a cathedral, the See of Sidonia having been removed hither by a bull of Pope Urban IV. JS'ew chapels were added in the 15th and 16th centuries. It was almost all destroyed by fire during the sack of the city by Lord Essex. It was immediately repau'ed, or rather rebuilt, and thirteen chapels erected. The edi- fice is low and mean, with a facade of bastardised Revival, decorated with statues, some of which have been re- moved to the new cathedi-al. It is most indifierent. (ffatljcoral iSTufBa. or de la Santa Cruz, was begun 1720, on the plans of Messrs. Acero and Cayon, pupils of the so-called Salamanca school, founded by Churriguera and Tome. The works were interrupted from want of funds till 1832, when they were resumed at the expense of the privy purse of the late most virtuous and zealous bishop, Don Do- mingo de Siloe, the edifice costing some iOO CADIZ. £300,000. Tlie style is classical, the exterior plain, not wanting in effect ; the interior over-ornamented, very chur- rigneresque in its details, and decorated with precious marbles from Genoa, and jaspers from ^Vrcos and lilanilva. It is of the Corinthian order, and measures 305 feet long, 216 feet ^-ide, and 189 feet to the cupola. The turrets outside are 207 feet high. Some portions are still unfinished. The tasteless high altar, of white marble, cost upwards of £7000, one half being the gift of the ex-Queen Isabella. The paintings are few, and all indifferent ; a good copy of one of Mu- rillo's Concepciones, by Clemente de Torres, and a San Lucas, ascribed to Ribera. The Custodia is valued at £10,000. The sillcria del coro, once in the Carthusian convent of Sta. Maiia de las Cuevas of Seville, and then in the Seville Picture Gallery, has been removed here in 1859. It is one of the finest in Spain, and the masterpiece of Pedro Duque Cornejo, a pupil of Rol- dan's. The chapels, relics, and jewels are all indifferent. Los Capuchinos, formerly a convent, was built 1641. The church is unin- teresting, but contains paintings which are gems. Over the high altar is the celebrated Marriage of St. Catharine, Murillo's last work, executed 1682, and about to be finished when he fell from the scaffolding, dying shortly after. Meneses Osorio, at his request, finished it. The San Juan Bautista, St. Jlichael, and other minor subjects, are by Meneses Osorio, after designs by MurUlo. Ob- serve over a lateral altar a grand Mu- riUo, St. Francis receiving the Stigmata. The head, hands, colouring — all is per- fect. In the Capilla del Sagrario there is another, but inferior Murillo, and a small Concepcion. San Felipe Neri. — A Concejwion over high altar, by Murillo, and a Padie Eterno, by Clemente de Torres, lu Los Descazlos some good carvings by Ver- gara and Roldan. The Picture Gallery {AauUmia de Bellas Artcs) in the Plaza de Mina (open daily 9 to 3, Sun. 10 to 3 ; Cat. 2 pes.) contains some good Zurbarans, Giordanos, Bassanos, and modern works. The older masters are well arranged in the first long room ; the modern pictures in an inner salon. In Room I., note especially, right-hand wall on entering : (17) a St. Bruno, by Costanzi ; (95) a Virgin and Child (Cologne School) ; (32) the Four Latin Fathers of the Chiirch (Jordaens) ; (4) Christ Driving out the Money-changers (Bassano) ; (2) Christ in the House of the Pharisee (Bassano) ; (7) Virgin and Child api^caring to St. Francis (A. Cano). Left-hand wall : (39) a Last Judgment (painter unknown) ; (23) a Still Life (Heems) ; (27) St. Michael (L. Giordano) ; Zurbaran's fine series of saints from the Jerez Cartuja, (66) St. John the Baptist, (67) St. LoAir- ence, (80) St. Matthew; also (63) the Portiuncula, an altar-piece from the Capuchin church at Jerez, represent- ing the rebuilding of the Church of Portiuncula at Assisi by St. Francis ; {6i) St. Br imo ; {65) Pentecost ; (68-74) Carthusian Monks ; (77-79) SS. John, 3Iarl; and Luke. An Fcce Homo by Murillo (34) was also brought here from the Jerez church. In Room II. (modern pictures) the following are noteworthy : right-hand ■wall on entering — (151) Murillo's Fall in the Capuchin church (see above), by Alex. Ferrant ; (125) Balcony of the Signoria at Florence (Abbati) ; (183) Victory of Cadiz over the Pirates of Morocco (Ferrant). End wall— (200) The Junta of Cadiz in 1810 communi- cating to the people the answer given to Soult's demand for the surrender of the town (Rodriguez). Left-hand wall — (135) Sierra of Cdrdoha (Belmonte) ; (160) Portrait (R. Garcia) ; (156) copy of Tobar's portrait of Murillo (J. G. C.VDIZ. 101 Chicano) ; a Vieio of Barcelona, by Meifren ; The Burial of Isabella la Catdlica, by Viniegra. Pronunades, Theatres, etc. — The Plaza de la Constitiicion and de Miua are the principal squares ; the Muralla del Mar, the Alameda, and the Parque Genoves (band), the finest promenades ; the Calles Duque de Tetuan and Ciinovas de Castillo the best streets for shops. Just off the Sacramento, in the Calle de Bulas, stands the lofty Torre de la Vigia, 100 ft. high, from ■whence the ships are signalled (fee 50 c, fine view from the top). The Jardin Botdnico, behind the Parque Genoves, contains some valuable trees and plants — specimens of the Dracaena Draco (one 500 years old), a ' Tras- parente ' tree of New Zealand {Myo- porum lacteum), and a fine array of tree geraniums and cacti. Xear this Cornwell, Esq. U.S.A.— J. H. Car- roll, Esq. Doctor. — Cel. Parraga, Canovas del Castillo, 5. Speaks English and French. Chemists. — Viercio, Calls San Fran- cisco, 25 ; Hohr, C. del Castillo, 36. Homaopathic Depot. — Calie Come- dias, 3. BanTcers. — Aramburu, 1 Plaza de la Constitucion ; Succursale of the Bank of Spain, Cruz de la Madera, 4 ; Duarte (Coutts), Plaza Mina, 18. Casa de Camhw. — Calle San Fran- cisco, 16. Cadiz is celebrated for fans, ladies' shoes, gloves, and guitars. Spanish music, guitars, castagnettes, may be purchased at Quirell's, 17 Rosario ; fans, Rivera, Calle de la Constitucion ; gloves in the Calle Tetuan. Tailors, garden, in the Calle de la Palma, a several good in the Calle San Fran- curious mural painting may be seen cisco. Hairdresser, Rey, Rosario, 10. close by the church of San Leandro, ascribed to Murillo (!), and commem- orative of the fact that on 1st Nov. 1755 a threatened inundation was here stayed by the pious devotion of the priests attached to the church. Cadiz possesses two good theatres, — thePrwi- Groceries, etc., Moyano, C. del Cas- tillo, 41. Wines, Arana, Plaza de la Constitucion, 16. Booksellers. — Ibanez, C. Duque de Tetuan, 35 ; Morillas, San Francisco, 36 ; Joly y Velasco (La Re vista Medica), Ceballos, 1. A good assort- cipal, in the Calle Aranda, and the j^ent of maps, plans, etc., may be Cdmico, in the C. de la Murga,— also ^^^ ^^^^^^ at the Litografia Alemana, a Bull Ring, rebuilt in 1862, and cap- Canovas del Castillo, 23. able of holding 11,000 spectators. To , q^^^^ possesses no good public lib- the handsome Casino strangers can be varies. The best are the Provincial, containing about 30,000 vols., open to the public from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. (closed on holidays), and that of the Bishopric, with about 3000 vols., and open upon presentation of card. admitted by consular, etc., introduc- tion. DiRECTOKT. — Consuls. — H. B. M. 's, Calle Marzal, 38, A. H. Vecqueray, Esq.; Vice-Consul, E. H. Andrewes, Esq. (Church of England service every Sunday morning at the Consulate). Vice - Consul at San Lucar, A . J. Excursions. — To Puerto de Sta. ilaria, conveyances two and three times a day ; steamers leave near the railway Aparicio ; at Puerto Sta. Maria, R. J. j station, Pqc^te-doJ-Mar, Pes. 1.25, 70 c; Pitman, Esq.; at San Roquc, G. fiJ^»%^^J^gu^ Ja,^ s^. ;By rai^ ,J-8| ra, SANTA BARBARA 102 CADIZ — ENVIRONS. 1st cl., ps. 4.25 ; 2(1 cl. ps. 3.10 ; 3d cl. ps. 1.85 ; in 1^ lir., four trains a day. Irnis. — Vista-Alegi-e and La Torre ; pop. 21,714 ; on right bank of the Guadalete. It was the Greeli port of Mnesthea. This small, clean, uninteresting city is very popular with the majos and bidl- fighters. Its plaza de toros holds 1 0,000 spectators. Visit the house of Marques de Purullena, which contains some good paintings and carving. Excellent wine, much like but inferior to that of Xeres, is produced here. The bodegas are in- teresting. The principal houses are Cosens de Mora, Duff Gordon, Gon- zalez, Pitman, etc. San Fernando, 20 minutes by rail, is also called La Isla de Leon, and is an island which the bridge of Zuazo connects to the main land, and over which one crosses the salted river of Sancti Petri. Observe all aroimd the white sno^vy mounds slrining m the sun, for here are the salt- pans (salinas) that bring in so important a revenue to the state. The observa- tory of San Fernando is the oldest in Spain, and is well provided with instru- ments, mostly English (Froughton and Simms's and Newman's). La Carraca. — Steamers twice a-day, in 1 4 hr. , and bj* rail to San Fernando, and then by omnibus (2r.) Leave to see it easily gi-anted. This is one of the most important Government dockyards in Spain, and though considerably de- cayed, is fast recovering part at least of its former prosperity. It was esta- blished 1760. Visit the Caldereria, Arboladura, Forja, Fundicion, rope- walks, etc. There are three docks, two of which can hold ships with keels mea- suring 2-30 feet long. During the work- hom's there are some 900 men variously employed, of whom 800 are presidarios. The edifices, cisterns, etc., are all on a large scale, and its whole area is of 949,580 square varas. To La Bota. — P>y steamer to Fueito Sta. Maria (or by rail all the way), and thence by rail, 3 trains daily, in half an hour ; fares, from Sta. Maria, Pes. 2.10, 1.40, 90 c. The wine called Tiutilla de Rota is made here, and when pure and anejo, is not to be despised by connoisseurs. 7256 inhab. The interior of its parish church is Gothic and spacious. This Phoeni- cian-built town was never of any im- portance, and is dull and uninteresting. Puerto Real. — By rail, | hr. ; foimded in 1488 by Queen IsabeUe. A smaU village, all regidarit}'^, ennui, and dirt ; a good new basin for steamers. On the first days of May there is a fair held here, much frequented by the lower classes, and abounding then in pictur- esque groups, dresses, etc. Sanlucar(de Barrameda). — 9 leagues by land and 7^ by sea. By rail vid Jerez (47 miles) ; or by shorter route, Puerto de Sta. Maria-Rota-Chipiona, two or three trains daily, in about an hour, from Puerto de Sta. Maria. Also by irregular steamers (see local adver- tisements). Fonda Ballestros ; fair food. Population 21,000. San Lucar boasts of a foundation dating to about the year 3557 before Christ! It was recovered from the Moors by Alfonso the Learned, who called it San Lucas, placing it under the patronage of that saint. How this is to be reconciled with its Roman name, Lucifer, is diflicult to guess ; however, the latter is a match to the other in puzzling etymologies. The canting arms are a castle with a star above, and at the foot of it a bull and an inkstand, the attributes of St. Luke, and the motto 'Luciferi fani Senatus.' The climate is delightful, and the Mont- pensier family has here a charming summer villa. There is an ancient parish church of the beginning of the 14th century, a good example of Mudc- jar architecture. Observe the fa9adc, a CARTAGENA. 103 rich Moorish roof studded with stai-s. It was built by Dona Isabel de la Cerda. It is dedicated to Our Lady of the 0. There is also a classical church of San Francisco. The wines vie with those of Xerez and the Puerto ; the bodegas are large and curious, the exports consider- able. Excursion to Huelvi, and the mines of Rio Tinto, etc., by Sea.— A small steamer nins to Huelva two or three times per week, in about 5 hrs. From thence railway into the milling district. Pop. of Huelva, 18,000. Hotels: ^[aIlri(l, .\lbion, Cuatro Naciones. H. CM. Vici- Consul, E. Diaz, Esq. This ancient town is rapidly increasing in import- ance, owing to the shipping, etc., trade, con- nected with the mines. There is also a large exportation of wine. The climate is delicious and well suited to invalids. Excursion by boat to Palos and the convent of Santa Maria la Rabida. From the former, Columbus set sail, Aug. 3, 1492, to discover his new world, return- ing here again March 15, 1493. Here, too, Hernando Cortes landed. May 1528, after his conquest of Mexico. At the convent of La Rabida Columbus was received and sheltered by Perez de Marchena, the far-sighted prior, to whose influence Isabella's patronage of the seemingly visionary scheme of discovery was 1 presently due. (See Prescott : also the works by Harrison, in America, by F. Duro and others, in Spain, after the Columbus centenary, 1S91.) The mines, of which Rio Tinto stands at the head, are situated some 30 m. inland, and, while not possessing any special attraction for the ordinary tourist, deserve a visit from all who are interested in colossal industrial under- takings. The work consists in the quarrying (for the ore lies in almost inexhaustible masses near the surface) of iron pjnntes, containing 50% of sulphur, and about 4% of copper. It Le shipped to England, France and Germany, for the manufacture of sulphuric acid and extrac- tion of copper ; and, inasmuch as the demand for the former is necessarily limited, immense quantities of the ore are calcined on the spot for the copper alone. As the process is carried on in the open every trace of vegetation for miles round is destroyed by the fumes of sul- phurous acid. Every attention is shown to visitors, who may find accommodation in seve- ral private houses. The Rio Tinto Co. em- ploys upwards of 4000 men, and raises over a million tons of ore in the year. Tlie next largest concern is the Tharsis Co. (Tarshish of the ancients), situated nearer to Palos. Both these mines were worked by Phoenicians, Romans and Moors, and have been resusci- tated by English capital. No less a sum than ^3,720,000 was paid in 1873 by the Rio Tinto Co. for its concession. CARTAGENA. Province of Murcia — (pop., 1S85, about 80,000). From Madrid. By rail. Two trains a day : 16 hrs. 525 kil. ; fares, Istcl., Pes. 60.40; 2d cl., 46.80. By the Madrid- Alicante Rail, as far as Chin- chilla Junction. Here the line to Murcia and Cartagena branches to the right. The scenery is most uninterest- ing. See for detail Murcia, 2d from Madrid. There are also occasional steamers to Alicante, ilalaga, Valencia, Almeria, etc., about three a fortnight. To Alicante, 6 hrs. To Almeria, 13 hrs. General Description. — This port is the largest in Spain after that of Vigo, It is the best and securest along the whole coast, sheltered from all danger- ous winds, and well protecteil by nature. The best inn is the Fonda Francesca, but the Hotel de Roma and the Hotel de Ramos are both fair — especially the latter. The town, dull and uninteresting, consists mainly of a long street, the Calle Mayor, which terminates in the Plaza de la Constitu- cion ; it is broad and relatively clean, but presents little to attract the travel- ler's notice. Cartagena was the Carth- ago Nova, founded by the Carthaginian family of the Barcas, who always founded cities near the sea. This port 104 CAKTACENA. was the most important tlie Cartlia- ginians possessed in Spain, and became their great arsenal and general entrepot. Its secure bay and situation facing the Mediterranean, half-waj' between Gaul and Tingitania, was not overlooked bj* the far-sighted Romans, who fortified it, and called it Colonia Victrix Julia. The Goths almost destroyed it. When the navy of Spain was flourishing (I7th century), Cartagena contained upwards of 60,000 inhabitants. Charles III. endeavoured, but in vain, to restore it to its former prosperity, and during the subsequent reigns it has gradually dwindled to but an unsatisfactory con- dition ; but life will, we trust, soon come back and fill those noble arsenals, magnificent docks, and admirable port, where nothing is wanting save ships and sailors ; articles not so easily made as tlie former. Among the very few sights is the arsenal, to visit which an order is neces- sary from the Comandante de Marina. The fortifications, basins, barracks, hospitals, rope-walks, foundries, are all built on a grand scale ; but they are ne- glected and left to decay. There are some few but interesting ruins in the vicinity, altogether neglected by anti- quaries. Trade, though checked lately by the low prices prevailing, is in a healthy state, and shows signs of revival. The iron, copper, and lead mines in the vicinity are actively worked, and many vessels arrive from England laden with coal to be employed in them ; the copper, silver, and lead are of excellent quality, and the filones abound. There is a small theatre and casino, into which travellers are easily admitted. As a residence the town is most dull, and there is no society. To obtain a fine view of the town, port, and sun-ounding scenery, we advise travellers to ascend La-s Galeras, La Atalaya, or San Julian. The only church is that of Sta. Maria de Gracia, the old cathedral of IStli century being ruinous. A permit to visit the Arsenal may be obtained at the Capitania General, in the Plaza de Sta. Catalina, or at the entrance to the Arsenal, Plaza del Rey (fee to guide). Trade and Mines. — The Commercial importance of Cartagena has been greatly enhanced of late years by the development of the mining industries. The principal exports are minerals, lead, and esparto, to the extent of about 650,000 tons of mineral, 60,000 tons of refined lead, and 8000 tons of esparto. The chief imports are coal and coke, to the amount of about 90,000 tons. A steam tram, six trains dail}', in an hour, fares pes. 1.65, 1.10, runs via Alumbres, to La Union and Los Blancos, the centre of the mining district, where is an industrial popula- tion of some 30,000 souls. The lead is largely obtained in an almost jmre state. Of iron and manganiferous iron ores 363,662 tons were raised and ex- ported in 1896. A new trade has been opened up in magnetic iron ore. The climate, formerly very unwhole- some, when the ague-stricken inhabit- ants used to die 'conio chinches,' owing to the brackish water, the emanations of the ill-drained Almajar (a lake formed by the rains, near the town), etc., has been considerably modified and imjiroved by the com- jilete drainage of this focus of fevers, the waters of which now flow into the sea, and the provision of an excellent supply of water. H.B.M. Vice-Consul, John 0. Gray, Esq.; U.S.A. Vice - Consul, Cirilo Molina. Post - Office. — Plaza de Valarino- Togores. Telegraph Office. — Calle de Jara. 105 CASTILES (NEW AND OLD). CastiHa-La-Nueva and Castilla-La- Vieja, the two largest provinces in Spain, have been divided into the pro- vinces of Burgos, pop. 355,000 ; Log- rofio, pop. 183,000 ; Soria, pop. 159,000; ^S'egroina, pop. 151,000; Avila, pop. 176,000 ; Santander, pop. 242,000 ; Palencia, pop. 185,000 ; and Valladolid, pop. 244,000 (forming part of Old Cas- tile), and Madrid, pop. 489,000 ; Gua- dalajara, pop. 209,000; Toledo, pop. 343,000, and Cucnca, pop. 240,000 (New Castile), summing 2,976,000. These two great divisions are placed under the military jurisdiction of the Captain-General of New Castile, who resides at Madrid, and of that of Old Castile, who resides at Valladolid, and are ecclesiastically dependent of the sees of Toledo and Burgos. Historical Notice. — The earliest in- habitants were the Celtiberi, Carpetani, Oretani, etc. The name Castile was derived from the numberless castles placed on the frontiers, and serving as defences against home and foreign ene- mies. Costilla la Vieja was one of the first Christian kingdoms that rose against the invading infidel. It was ruled in the 10th century by its own counts, was united to the kingdom of Leon in 1035, separated from it 1065 to 1071, and again from 1157 to 1230. It was then finally joined to Leon under Ferdinand III., St. Ferdinand, and at the marriage of Isabella of Cas- tilla with Ferdinand of Aragon, all these separate kingdoms were merged into one great monarchy, destined to attract to itself the whole of Spain. Rivers, 3Iountains, etc. — The princi- pal mountains are the Sierra Guadar- raraa, to the N. E. of New Castile ; the snow-capped Somosierra to E. ; the ranges of Molina and Cuenca, which are joined to those of Alcan-az and Murcia ; the Montes de Toledo, whicL rise between the Tagus and Guadiana ; and to the S. a portion of the Sierra Morena, which divides it from Anda- lusia. The most important rivers ai-e the Ebro, Duero, Tagus, etc. The mountainous districts are picturesque, highly interesting for their botany and geology. The rest of the country is composed of trackless, lonely, wind- blown plains, most fertile, though much exposed to drought, and thinly peopled. The heat is excessive in summer, and the icy blasts in winter come sweeping down from the lofty mountains, checked in their course by neither forests, hedges, nor cultivation. The People, Character, Dress. — The Castilians are a grave, loyal, stern, trustworthy, and manly race, silent and proud ; poverty, ignorance, and bigotry are their lot, but not their work ; and their excellent qualities, and even de- fects, might be easily turned to good ac- count. They speak the purest Spanish, el Castellano, which Charles V. said was the only tongue in which man could presume to address the Divinity. They wear long cloaks, anguarinas, ami a curiously-shaped cap or montera. The cities retain mostly all the cha- racteristics of the medieval Gotho- Castilian style, and abound in magnifi- cent examples of Gothic and P)3^zantine churches, and of military palatial archi- tecture. Andalusia is the land of the Moor, but Castile is alone truly and exclusively Spanish. Routes, etc. The following comprises the principal cities :— Madrid to Alcald Olmedo, r. de Henares, r. Segovia, r. Guadalajara, r. Avila, r. Siguenza, r. Escorial, r .Soria, r. Madrid, r. Alfaro, r. Toledo, r. Logrono, r. Albaccte, r. r.urgos, r. Cuenca, r. Vall.adolid, r. Huete, r. 106 CATALVSlA. We have entirely omitted such cities as Aninda, Lerma, Buitrago, Talavera, Bclmonte, etc., becai:se, besides the difficulty of reaching them now, and the wretched accommodation, to which we can testify, their contents are mostly indifferent to the general tourist. The best season is the spring and early pajft of summer. CATALU N A Geographical and Administrative Division. — Cataluna, a captaincy- general, el princii)culo, as it is often called, has the shape of a triangle, the summit of which is formed by the Pyrenees and the base by the Jlediter- ranean. It has an extent of 140 m. E. to W., and 154 m. K to S. The population, which amounted to 326,970 inthel5thcentury,numbersnow(189S): in Gerona, 347,000 inhab. ; Barcelona, 851,000 ; Lerida, 390,000 ; Tarragona, 387,000 ; in all, 1,915,000 souls— these four present provinces constituting formerly all Cataluna. It is a region of hills and vallej^s, the seaboard ex- tending some 389 Icil. from Cape Cer- vera to the embouchure of Cervera, the principal ports being Barcelona, Tarra- gona, Salon, Rosas, Palamos, etc. The People, Character, Dress, etc. — The Catalans are the most industrious, business-like, enterprising people in Spain ; they are the Scotch of this country, as the Andalusians are the Irish, and the Asturians the Welsh. They are sober, laborious, honest, en- thusiastic for progress, proud of their own, looking up to P'rance for example and competition, and down on the sur- rounding provinces with contempt and pity. Wherever there are ti'ade, fabrics, enterprise, there you are sure to find Catalans ; in England, in America, in the East, they have everywhere, and in all ages and times, carried their insa- tiable love of enterprise and acti\aty. They are vehement, austere, revengeful, and generally not capable of great feel- ing or lasting friendship, and egotism seems to be a pivot aroxmd which all their actions turn. They are besides destitute of stability in their own poli- tical principles, and have sold them- selves always to the highest bidder ; but it must not be forgotten that in their hearts and souls they are neither Spaniards nor French, they are Cata- lans ; and in their ej'cs, there is only one Cataluna, and Barcelona is its pro- phet. Their religion reaches supersti- tion ; their activity degenerates into feverish craving ; their love of liberty has led them to bloodshed, excesses, and rapine. They hold the commerce of Spain in their hands, and have been justly defined, as a province, the Spanish Lancashire. Cataluna has been always the centi'c of rebellion, the focus of re- publicanism and democracy ; it is the feeder of Spain, its stomach, which is the centre and cause of all disease in CATALUN'A. 107 the great body. Tliey are patient and daring soldiers, excellent sailors, and model smugglers and guerrilleros. The dress is plain and unpicturesqiie. The women — las payesas — who are not a handsome race, but strong, masculine, aiigidar, and rough diamonds, wear a tight boddice, short dress, and an un- becoming handkerchief, inocado, on their heads, which is generally red. The men's dress consists of a ver}' short velvet or cloth jacket, long loose dark trousers, which come up very high, and the sandal, espardinija ; the head -gear is a reminiscence of their Carthaginian forefathers, and is a very long red or purple cotton nightcap-shaped 'gorro,' not unlike that worn by the Genoese and Neapolitan fishermen ; the end either hangs on one side, or is doubled up and brought over the forehead : the red predominates. Indeed, the different provinces might be characterised by tints ; red would stand for Cataluna, blue and black for Andalusia, light green and white for Valencia, brown for Asturias, dark purple for Aragon, etc. The Catalans, though egotis- tical, prosaic, and very keen after money, are yet generous, and spend fortunes in patronising art, while their popular poetry is wonderfully ethereal in style and feeling. The language of the country — Catalan — is a dialect of the Lemosin, or Romance, spoken from the moun- tains of Auvergne to Valencia. In the 13th and 14th centuries it had some resemblance to the Langue- docian and Gascon dialects, but has since been more influenced by the Provengal, which it now greatly resembles. The literature consists mainly of poetry and chronicles, with some good modern dramas. History. — The Catalans are descend- ants of the Phcenicians, Carthaginians, and Greeks, who colonised all Medi- terranean Spain. It was considered, from its position, a very important pro- vince of Roman Spain ; Tarragona be- came the capital. Cataluna was divided into different minor states — Cerretania, Ausetania, Lacetania, etc. When Eome fell, and Spain was invaded by the Alani, Sueves, etc., the Goths fixed their first colonies here, and called it their own land, Gotha-lunia. "When the floors invaded it, disx^ossessing the Goths, the Franks crossed the Pyrenees, were repulsed, and driven back to Nar- bonne, but mustering great numbers, came again and took Barcelona. The Moors were defeated, antl retired, and the French conquerors established a feudal condado, or county, calling it the Spanish Marche, and divided into nine smaller states. Wifred, governor under Charles the Bald, of France, raised the standard of revolt, and be- came the independent chief of the pros- perous and extensive condado of Bar- celona. The independence of the county lasted from the 9th to the 12th cen- tury. This was the greatest period of the prosperity, "wealth, and power of Cataluiia. It was then that the cele- brated maritime expeditious against the pirates of the Balearic Islands and Corsica took place, as well as the war with Majorca (then possessed by the Moors), which was carried on by Ramon Berenguer III. and the Catalan nobility — the expeditions against the Moors in Spain — the capture of Tortosa — the alliances with the puissant republics of Genoa and Pisa, etc. By the mar- riage in 1137 of Ramon Berenguer IV. with Petronila, daughter and heiress of Earairo el Monje, king of Aragon, Cataluna was merged in the crown of the latter country, and lost its inde- pendence. Annexed to Castile by the man-iage of Ferdinand and Isabella, Cataluna no longer possessed the pros- perity and power of ancient times. Its 108 cataluSa. energies, spirit of trade, and independent pretensions were crijipled, scorned, and put down by the haughty courtier- warriors of C^astilla. Kebellion, the well-known suhlevaciones, motines, so- matenes, pronuncianiientos, and other suchlike outbursts, with which Catalan political vocabularies abound, began now never to cease. In 1640 they threw off the yoke of Philip IV., and offered their allegiance to Louis XIII., ' qui ne se fit pas prier, ' but hastened to proclaim himself Count of Barcelona. Put down in 1652, the rebellion was renewed in 1689, when they resisted Charles II., but were obliged to sur- render to the French army under the orders of Due de Vendorae. In the war of succession they sided with Austria, and in 1714 Philip V. bombarded Barce- lona, and destroyed one-third of it. But their want of success has not deterred them from indulging to this day in civil wars and revolutions. They are per- petual grumblers, and have taken to meetings, associations, political discus- sions, representacioues to Government and the Queen, couched often in ener- getic terms, etc. Free trade and Pi-o- tection are here at loggerheads, and the tariff and its giievances call forth the eloquence of its deputies at the Cortes, and the diatribes of its press-writers at home. Cataluna is with all this very prosperous, her manufactures increas- ing, and her trade thriving, esjiecially with France. Mines, ArjricuUurc, etc. — Cataluna abounds in mines, though they are of no very great importance. Salt is found in great quantities at Cordona and Gerri, Ucul at Falset, lead and copper at Bassagoda, La Bisbal, Sellera, Vi- dresas ; tin, zinc, and cobalt are more scarce ; coal is found at Ripoll and San Juan de las Abadesas ; and the marhles of Tortosa and Tarragona are excellent, and in great repute. There are several excellent and bene- ficial mineral springs called Caldas {cal- das, hot), such as the Caldas de Mont- buy, Caldas d'Estrach, de Malavella, the sulphurous waters of La Puda, over the Llobregat, and of N. Sra. de Caldas. Linen, blondes, and lace are extensively produced, and besidespaper- manufactures, soaps, spirits, etc., cot- ton-spinning has of late years acquired great importance, and mills are being established everj'where. The principal centres are Barcelona, Sabadell, Pieus, etc. Agriculture is far from being neglected ; and Catalan energy has transformed the arid ravined soil into gardens and orchards, the example being given by the wealthy proprie- tors, who, un-Spanish-like, love to dwell on their estates, where they build handsome houses, called torres. The plains of the Ampurdan, the country about Gerona, Vich, Cerdana, Urgel, Tarragona, the Mediterranean board, are celebrated for the fertility of the soil, their olives, vines, and jias- tures. Wine of infinite varieties and tastes is likewise produced, among which we may name the delicious malvasia de Sitjes, those of Allera, CuUera, Trana, Taya, the heady Beni- carlo, sent to France to flavour and dar cucrpo to the spiritless acid pique tte, Priorato (near Tarragona), etc. The rich red common wine, when matured by age, and then called rancio, is ex- cellent, especially with water. The principal rivers are, the Fluvia, Ter Ebro, Llobregat, Francoli, and Cerria, most emptying themselves into the Mediterranean. The recent revival of Art and Litera- ture in Cataluna is remarkable. The province has produced a succession of good names — the painters Fortuny and Viladomat, the writers Balmes, Bo- farull y Balaguer, Soler, Verdaguer, etc. Routes. — The cities have a very CATALUNA. 109 distinct character of their o^vn, though mostly moderuised. The monuments belong to the worst period of art, or, if ancient, have been sadly disfigured or neglected. This is speaking in a general sense, for there are some and very important exceptions, such as the cathedral and cloisters of Tarra- gona, the ruinous but interesting Po- blet, Cucufate del Valles, cathedrals of Barcelona, Gerona, Lerida, etc. These are as interesting as anything in the Peninsula, though some of them, as Poblet and Cucufate, lie so far out of the broad road that they are practically beyond thereach of the ordinary, hurried tourist. The best season to travel in Cataluua is the spring and autumn, and the mountainous districts in the summer. Barcelona is a good winter quarter for invalids. 'R.QV1VS— Continued. Routes. Perpignan to Figue- ras, r. Gerona, r. Tortosa, r., indifTer- ent Reus, r. Mataro, r. Barcelona, r. Tarragona, r. Mauresa, r. Cervera, r. Solsona, d. Urgel, rid. d. French Pj-renees, rid. d. or walk. Puigcerda, rid. or walk. Montblanch, r. Poblet, d. r. Lerida, r. Camprodon,dil. andr. Olot, r. Ripoll, r. Vich, r. Granollers, r. Barcelona, r. And a shorter, from Barcelona to Tarragona and Reus, then to Lerida and Manresa, and Monserrat (from stat. of), in a week's time. Books of Reference. — 1. 'LosCondes de Barcelona vindicados,' by the learned Bofarull ; Barcelona, 1836, 2 4to vols. Highly important. 2. ' Eecuerdos y Bellezas de Espana.' The portion relating to Cataluna has been ably ^vritten by Messrs. Piferrer and Pi y Margall. 3. ' Viage literario a las Iglesias de Espana,' by Villaneuva. Vols. 5 to 21 relate to the churches and ecclesiastical history of Cataluna. 4. ' Espana Sagi-ada,' xxiv., Parte i.2. ' Historia de Cataluna,' by D. Victor Balaguer, 1887-88; 'Las Ruinas de Poblet," Madrid, 1886. 'Historia del Ampurdan,' by D. Jose Pella y Forgas (Illustrated), Barcelona. 1SS8. For the language see the article ' Spain,' in the Enqjclo- paedia Britannica, with the references there given ; also the article in Chambers's Encyclopaedia. 110 CORDOVA Capital of province of same name, bisliopiic, commandancia general ; pop. 56,000 (1897). Communications. — 1. From Mad- rid. By rail throughout, distance, 442 Icil. Time, 14 hrs. ; fares, 1st cl., Pes. 50.85 ; 2d cl., 39.40 ; restaurants. Al- cazar and Espeluy. Fast exp. , Monday, Wednesday, and Friday evenings. Description of Route. — Between Alca- zar and Cordova the country is mostly uninteresting — treeless, stony, wind- blown, are indeed the endless ' Campos de la ]\Iancha, ' a name, however, very familiar to all readers as being so closely associated with Cervantes' immortal hero, El Hidalgo Don Quixote de la Mancha. ArgamasiUa de Alba, which is crossed soon after lea^'ing Alcazar, is supposed to have been the place where Cervantes, thrown into its prison by the u-ascible debtors whose rents he had been sent to collect, began to write his novel, making his hero a native of the village which had so ill treated him. No one doubts here of the real existence of the gallant old knight, and there are several families who claim descent from that wisest of fools, and that shrewdest of madmen. One of the best and most recent editions has been printed in that very prison, the former town I'ail. Short- ly after we leave this station are seen, rising on our right, the foremost alturas of Sierra Morena. Manzanarcs. — Tra- vellers to Lisbon change carriages. Valdcpcnas (Inn : Posada del Medio- dia), 11,200 thirsty souls, who almost live upon the exceUeut but improvable wine of that name — with the Rioja the best Sjianish red wine. It originated with some vines brought from Burgundy, and which tlirivein that flinty tract of country (branch line to Calzada de Calatrava). Ventade Cardenas. — This name is also familiar to readers of Don Quixote as being that of the venta to which Cardenio, the curate, and Doro- tea took the jienitent knight on his giving up his solitary life. Vadollano (branch to Linares), the celebrated lead mines, the property of English, French, German, and Spanish companies. .£"5- 2}ehi,y (good fonda), branch for Jaen. We thenreach^?i(^Mjar,aboutlO,OOOinhab., sombre, backward, and unwholesome. In its church a fine Sto. Scjnilcro in relief; around are very extensive olive- grounds, and close by flows the Guadal- quivir. The Convention of Bailen, July 23, 1808, was signed here. After crossing the bridge, one enters the pro- vince of Cordova. Not far from Fcdro Ahad is El Carpio, with a Moorish tower, built in 1325. Close to Alcolea Stat, is a very fine black marble bridge of 20 arches. The Guadalquivir to the left. Cordova soon appears, in not a striking situation. To N.AV. of the valley is the large conical rock and castle of Almo- dovar, one of Don Pedro's fortresses, where he kept his treasures, sometimes amounting to 70 million ducats. Now the Guadalbarbo is crossed, the orange and the palm mingle with the dusty imgaiidy olive, and Cordoba is reached. 2. From Seville (see Sc^•ille), 3^ hrs. from Cadiz ; by rail through Seville, 9 hrs. ; both by raU. direct. 3. From Gran-ada. Granada by Loja, Antequera to Bohadilla, liy rail, about 4 hrs. ; at latter station take up the Malaga to Cordova train, 6 hrs. For description of route, see Granada from Cordova. 4. From or to Almaden mines. By rail via Almorchon, or riding, 18 leagues. OOKDOVA. Ill Leagues. Cordova to Villaharta Villanueva del Duquc Los Pedroches Santa Eufemia Almaden 5. From Malaya. By rail direct ; distance, 195 kil. ; time, 6 lirs. (mail train, correo) ; fares, 1st cl., Pes. 24.45 ; 2d el., Pes. 18.35. For description of route, see Malaga from Cordova. 6. From Jaen. By branch line to Meujibar or Espeluy, where change into Madrid train. Two trains per da}'. Distance from Jaen to Menjibar, 33 kil. Time, about 1 hr. A continua- tion of the Jaen branch to Granada has been long projected. In the mean- time a dil. runs daily in about 8 hrs. Hotels. — Fonda Sidza ; good, but noisy. Prices from pes. 12i. Ask for the interpreter, who knows Cordova well. Fonda de Oricntc, Fonda Espau- ola, both fair ; prices from 7 pes. upwards. One or two fair Casas de Huespedes, Confeclioncr. — Good shop opposite the Suiza. Ask for orange flower marmalade. Carriages may be hired at the hotels for 25 P. a day, and 12| P. half the day, but arc cheaper if hired on the Plaza, and as good. Casino and Library. — A good club. Strangers admitted for a fortnight upon member's introduction. French and Spanish papers. The Biblioteca Provincial is small (8000 vols.), but worth a visit. Some good MSS. Admittance free. Post Ojjice. — Plazucla de Seneca. Gafis. — Del Gran Capitan, on the favourite promenade of same name ; Cafe Colon ; Cafe Nuevo. II.B.M. Vice-Consul.—Wichdiril Eshott Carr, Esq. Protestant chapel and scJwol {Spanish). N.B. — Those desirous of visiting an olive farmhouse, etc., will do well I to go to Biijalance, Cabra, Montoro, or Agiiilar. For details of the pro- ceedings, etc., see Gen. Inf. : Agri- culture. Climata. — Owing to the low and somewhat sunk situation of the city in a valley, the utter want of trees, the scanty irrigation, etc., the heat in sum- mer is very great — indeed almost insup- portable — and the wealthy inhabitants migrate northwards, or to the seaside to verancar. Tlie climate is, however, wholesome, and the spring and autumn are delightful. The most common ill- nesses are catarrh, intermittent fevers, inflammatory fevers, and jndmonics. The average temperature is — R. In spring . . . .15° In summer .... 21° In autumn . . . .14° In winter . . . . 5° to 6' The thermometer has never been known to rise above 33° to 34° in summer, or to fall below 3° under zero. As to wind, it is exposed to the E. wind. The Sierra, extending from E. to W., screens the town a good deal from the northern blast ; the most prevalent are E., S.AV., AV., N.W. I\Iortality is high ; great age being seldom reached. The climate has changed considerably since the time of the Moors, when Cor- dova and its districts were held to be a perfect paradise upon earth, of which its black-eyed women were the houris. Cordova is situated 37° 42' N. lat., 4° 45' W. long. General Description. — Cordova, once the centre of Eui'opean civilisation, the successful rival of Baghdad and Da- mascus, the seat of learning and reposi- tory of arts, sank long ago into a third- rate provincial city, hackward, dull, ill-provided, depopulated and silent— a city of the dead. The very labourer, forgetful of the golden rules practically laid down by the industrious Moor for 112 CORDOVA. eonverting wiistes iuto gardens aud or- chards, looks sluggishly on his treeless, waterless, parehed up valley, eonfident that what little seed falls from his lazy hands will ripen under the generous sun into an abundant crop. Thus it is that tlie extent of the district (Termino), being 184,238 fanegas (Gen. Inf.) of land, yields only about £205, 000 yearly. The antipathy to trees is shown by the fact that out of the above extent they cover a surface of only about 30,000 fanegas ! In the 16th century, the district of Sta. Clara yielded half-a-million fanegas of corn a-year ; and the silk, once a source of wealth to the khalifate, is no longer produced. The celebrated Cordovan breed of horses, called Oel-mefki, and worthy of the Prophet's beautifid description of a horse in the Koran, have also degene- rated ; and though they are still elegant, swift-footed, shining with lusti'ous hair and beautiful tail and mane, yet their size, high legs, thick ' acarnerada ' head and neck, bespeak neglect and sad cros- sings. The city, once the abode of the flower of Andalusian nobility, is inhabited chiefly by the aduainistradores of the absentee sehorio, their ' solares ' are de- sert and WTetched, the streets ill paved though clean, and the whitewashed houses, unin)portant, low, and denuded of all art and meaning, either past or present. There are now but few and fast- fading vestiges of the glorious Moslem dominion. Indeed, artists and poets will feel here as elsewhere that their ])r()gress through Spain is, as it were, little else than following the long funeral of that Eastern genius that left no heirs behind save such like cities as this one, tliat sit in widowhood pointing to some great monument as an eloquent record of the past. But, as Victor Hugo justly remarks, Cordouc au.x malsons vicillcs A sa mosqude oil I'ieLI se perU dans les iner- veilles ; and tliat magnificent edifice — a town in itself — with its many streets formed by marble pillars, like alleys of trees, com- pensates for the absent life from the body, whose limy, white, and calcined skeleton lies before us. For the passing tourist who is busy doing Spain, a few hours W'ill suffice ; but the artist, the antiquary, the lover of the beautiful, of the poetry and music infused in stones, must linger more, and visit the mosque oftentimes and at various hoiu's of the day. The environs, valley, and sierra teem with magnificent fmit of excep- tional size and exquisite flavour, abound with game — the boar, deer, and even lynx ; and the botanist will meet with a very extensive flora, comprising up- wards of 1500 sorts of plants, many of which will be new to him and deserve investigation. Cordova will appear most Oriental to the traveller coming from the North, and who has not seen Seville, Granada, etc., and has, at all events, a most un- European character about its streets, narrow and winding, its flat-roofed houses, the stately palm waving in the silent air from behind a garden wall, over which enormous oranges, citrons, and limas cluster and fall like golden balls. The appearance and colouring of the suburbs and sierra by evening time will tempt many a painter and poet besides Roberts and Southey. History.— Cordova, whose name. Bo- chart supposes, is derived from the Syi'ian cotch, 'oil-press,' and, accord- ing to Conde, Carta-tuba, an ' import- ant city, ' was but little known under the Phcenicians. Silius Italicus mentions it in his poem on the second Punic War, ' Nee decus auriferje cessavit Corduba tcrris,' when Hannibal di-sposed of troops furnished by that city. Marcus CORDOVA — CATHEDRAL. 113 lirst, 206 n. c, and ^I. ^Marcellus after, gave it importance, and the latter founded here tlie first Roman colony, wliicli was called Patricia, from the number of patrician families that came from liome and established here their home. Cordova subsequently became the capital of Ulterior Spain, and sub- sequently of Baetica. It sided with Pompcy, which opinion cost the lives of 28,000 of its inhabitants, who were put to death by Caesar, after his victory of Munda. Under the Goths the city lost its importance, to regain it, and reach its highest acme, when it became Moor- ish. 1 1 was taken shortly after the battle of the Guadelete by Mugueith El Eumi, who, through the assistance of the Jews inside, obtained possession of it, and entrusted part of its garrison to the sons of Israel, ever ready to open the doors to let in the enemy and divide the spoils. Subject at first to the khalii'ate of Damascus, Cordova about 756 declared itself independent, and became the capi- tal of the .Moorish Empire of Spain, under the Ummeyah Abdu-r-rhaman. Under the princes of this dynasty, this city (10th century) contained 300,000 inhabitants (including the suburbs), GOO mosques, 50 hospitals, 800 public schools, 900 baths, and 600 inns ; a library of 600,000 volumes, besides 70 private ones in the rest of the kingdom. The revenue amounted to six millions sterling. Discord now began to weaken the extensive kingdom ; the factions among the sheiks, aided by the progress of the Christians, soon put an end to the prosperity of the kingdom, and on Tune 30, 1235, St. Ferdinand entered the city. Ever since that time, and notwithstanding the many privileges granted to its inhabitants and the no- bility that resided here, Cordova never recovered even the shadow of its former prosperity. In the 17th century the population did not reach 70,000, and has now dwindled to little more than 50,000. Eminent Natives.— Cordova, the abode and cradle of many of the noblest Spanish houses, ' la poblacion de Eiiropa de mas limpia y apurada nobleza,' as Gonzalo de C&pedes has it, has been the birthplace of several gi-eat writers, such as Seneca (6 A.c), the master of Nero ; the stoic philosoplier Lucan (39 A.c), the author of ' Pliarsalia ;' Aver- rocs (12th century), the erudite trans- lator of Aristotle ; Hoses Maimonides (1139), the rabbi ; Juan de Mena (1412), the author of ' El Laberinto ; ' Sepul- veda, Gongora, Cespedes, A. de Morales, etc. The French, under Dupont, June 1808, entered the unresisting cit)', which they sacked, murdering the in- habitants in cold blood. The plunder, according to Maldonado, exceeded £100,000, of which £25,000 alone were found among Dupont's luggage. Sights.— The cathedral (or mos(iue), Alcazar, El Triimfo, churches, minor sights, and the environs. Cathedral, or Mosque: its His- tory.— On entering the city, the Moors, as was always the case, assured to the Christians the liberty of their religion, and by treaty allowed them the use of their cathedral, dedicated to San Vi- cente, built on the site of a temple of Janus. All the other churches were destroyed but this one, which was ex- tant in 745, as the author of the Akhbai Madjmona asserts most formally. But the augmentation of population which soon arose obliged the ]\Ioors to adopt here the plan already followed at Damascus and Emesia, and half the cathedral was wrested from them and converted into a mosque, just as half their mosque was, centuries after, con- verted into a Christian church. In 784 Abdu-r-rh3,raan I. insisted on obtaining 114 CORDOVA — CATHEDRAL tlie other half, and a transaction ensued by which the Christians M'cre allowed to rebuild all their former churches, and received for their cathedral the sum of 100,000 dinars (£40,000, but equal now to £440,000). That prince had determined, from political as well as religious motives, to build a magnifi- cent mosque on the i)lans of that of Damascus, to exceed the then new one of Bagdad in splendour and extent, and comparable only to the Aclcsah of Jerusalem. It was to be the Mecca of the West, and to be called the Zeca, or House of Purification, and pilgrimages to its wondrous Mih-rJib were to be considered equivalent to those made to the Caaba of the Prophet. The khalif in person designed the edifice, gave up for its erection a large portion of his revenue, and is said to have worked at it himself for a few hours every day. It was begun in 786, and the follow- ing year, on the untimely death of the founder, it was already much advanced. Hashem or Hixem, his son, continued it on the same plans, and with such ac- tivity that it was completed in 796 — that is, ten years after the first stone was laid. At the death of the founder 100,000 gold doblas had already been spent. Abdu-r-rhaman 111. erected the fountains and its most elegant minaret. The mosque now consisted of eleven naves, 642 ft. long by 293 ft. wide. Al Massour, the hadjeb of Hashem II., ordered eight more naves to be added, and erected the chapel where the Imans .'isserabled, now called Capilla de Villa- viciosa. Ou entering the captured city, St. Ferdinand had the mosque purified and dedicated to the Virgin. Several chapels, altars, sacristies, etc. , were now added, and about July 1521 the transept and choir were begun ; but when Cliarles V., who had allowed these works to be made, came to Cordova iii 1526, and saw what had taken place, he exclaimed indignantly : ' I was not aware of this ; for had I known you intended to touch the ancient portion, 1 would not have permitted it. You have built here what can be built anywhere else, but you have destroyed what was unique in the world.' Hernan Ruiz, on Seiitem- ber 7, 1523, had begun the works; the elegant alminar or belfry, built by Ab- du-r-rharaan, and which had also been disfigured by Hernan liuiz, fell to the ground and was replaced by the present belfry. Its Style and Tropwlions. — The Mosque of Cordova may be considered as the most perfect specimen extant, or ever erected, of the religious architec- ture of the Moors of Spain. Indeed, it is generally thought to be ' the finest type in Europe of the true temple of Islam ;' and as the result and expres- sion of one age, one plan, one idea, the consequent unity of design is evident. In shape it is the Basilica, adapted to the Moslem worship. Its characteris- tics are : vastness, originality, gi'eat simplicity in the distribution, solidity severe and massive, great elegance in the curves and profiles, a happy com- bination of lines producing vistas. AVhat this edifice must have been in its palmy days, when its roof was higher and glis- tening with gilding and ^^vid colours, and thousands of gold and silver lamps ; when its walls were worked like lace, and looked like Cashmere shawls illu- minated fiom behind, and its arches like so many gigantic bows, studded with emeralds and rubies, resting on mosaic trunks of porphyry, jasper, and other precious mai'bles, may be imagined ; but now whitewash has obliterated the past magnificence, and ignorance and neglect have done the rest. The area is 642 ft. long N. to S., by 462 ft. wide, E. to W. (this being the last measurement made in 1811), CORDOVA — CATJI HDRAL. 115 Exterior. — Tlie enclosing walls are most picturesque, and preserve all their Moorish character. They are in tapin, averaging from 30 to 60 ft. in height, and 6 ft. in thickness, and strengthened here and there liy .square buttress towers. In the S. wall, which, by the declivity of the site, reached a great height, were built as many as nineteen towers, their whole number amounting to forty-eight towers, of which most remain. There were sixteen entrances, and twenty-one interior doors. The external ones were generall)' square, with horseshoe arches, and very richly decorated. The boul- ders, stones, sillones, of which the walls and gi-eat part of the towci-s are built, were of the size used by the Romans, 4 ft. long and 2 ft. wide. The almenas (buttresses indented) crowning the walls and concealing the roof are about 3 ft. high, and are indented and trian- gular, except here and there on the tower.s, where they assume an unfinished large flower-vase form. Half of those towards the patio have the shape of a lieur-de-lys, but they are modern ; whilst the former are of Persian origin, with- out models in Greece or Italy. The Court of Oi-anges, Puerta del Perdon, and cistern are most Moorish. All the former ingi-esses are now blocked up and closed save one. Observe those on the E. side, with their rich spandrils, pillar- ets, and aginieces — Puerta del Perdon \s the largest and most beautiful. These entrances, very common in Spanish cathedrals, were so called from the in- dulgences granted to those who passed under them. On the sides of it are the coats of arms of Castile and Leon, and the inscription around it is : ' On the 2ND DAY OF THE MONTH OF March, of the era of Caesar, i4i5 (1377 a.c.), in the reign of the Most High and Puissant Don En- rique, King of Castile.' The doors tliemsel ves are curiously orna- mented with bronze artesonillos, form- ing different patterns, and in Gothic letters the word ' Deus,' and in Arabic characters, ' The Empire belongs to God ; all is His.' In the 16tli century several fresco paintings were placed over this portal, but they were defaced, and wretched ones put up in the 17th and 18th centuries. Court of Oranges. — This patio, 430 ft. by 210 ft., is divided into three cuadros or quarters ; in the centre of each is a fountain. There were always trees in it, especially palms and cypresses, many of which were destroyed in a hurricane (1822.) Most of the present orange- trees date 16th century. At each end, except the S., of this court is a colon- nade of marble pillars, supporting cir- cular arches. They date from after the capture of Cordova by the Christians. The cistern, used for ablutions, was put up in 945 by Abdu-r-rhaman, and the coui-t is the work of Said Ben Ajoib, 937. On each side of the entrance to the ca- thedral is a Roman military column, fotmd in the mosque in 1532, with an inscription stating the distance (114 ra.) to Cadiz from the Temple of Janus, which stood on this site. The Belfry. — The former Muezzin tower, built by the Khalif Abdu-r-rha- man III. on the site of a still earlier one, was modernised by the Christians, and then tlii'< iwn down by a storm, and the present bastard insignificant struc- ture erected in 1589 by Hernan Ruiz, crowned by a gilt statue of St. Rafael. Interior. — The first impression is that of bewilderment and astonishment, pro- duced by the interminable and seem- ingly confused mazes of pillars, compared by a French writer to a roofed-in forest. The roof is 35 ft. high ; the cupolas are modern, and put up in 1713. The Moorish roof was flat, the beams appa rent, painted and gilt, and made of alerce 116 CORDOVA — CATHEDRAL. (which is the Thii^ articulata or Arbor vitce, a wood considered incorruptible), which when taken down were found as sound as when placed there eleven cen- turies before. The pillars numbered once upwards of 1200, now reduced to 850 ; but if we include those embedded in the walls and others absorbed, so to say, in works of repair, etc. , there may- even now be said to be about 1000. They are all monolithic (of one block), and came, already shaped, capitals and all, from different countries, Roman temples, mosques, etc. ; in Spain, chiefly from Seville and Tarragona ; in France, from Nismes and Narbonne ; from Car- thage in Africa ; from Constantinople, whence 1 40 were sent as a present by the Emperor Leo ; and hence the diver- sity of styles, sizes, etc. They are of marbles of difl'erent hues and species, of green and blood jasper, and of a handsome red hrcccia, from Cabra. The bases are unfortunately mostly buried under the poor brick flooring. The capitals are generally Composite, almost all those on the E. side Corin- thian ; but this character is vaguely ex- pressed and rudely conceived. Others have purely Arab and African capitals. Tliese pillars form nineteen spacious naves, from E. to W., and twenty-nine from N. to S. , which, intersecting each other at right angles, produce great variety of perspectives, enhanced by the elegant ultra-semicircular or horseshoe arches, most originally placed one upon another, and which, used in this mosque for the first time, add to its architectural value. The important additions made by Al-SIanssoiu- are in the African style of transition, and characterised by the presence of the ogival arch, used here for the first time in the Moorish monu- ments of Spain and the type of the Spanisli ogival style. 2'he Mih-rab, or Sanctuai-y of the Mosque. — In tins small and most beau- tiful recess, the Othmanic Koran was placed, and the Khalif, the Prince of the Faithful, Defender of the Faith, Pope and Autocrat at the same time, used to perform his chotba or public prayer at the vidndow towards the ceca, or holy of holies, and placed to the Kiblah, or S. — that is, in the direction of Mecca. This Mih-rab forms a heptagon 13 ft. in diameter, and 274 ft. high to the cupola. The pavement is of white marble, as well as the base- ment and the shell -shaped roof (all of one block). The sides of the hepta- gon are decorated ^vith three-lobed arches resting on marble pUlarets, with gilt capitals of most excellent workman- ship. These stand upon a low cornice, under which runs an inscription in gold. Inside was kept the pulpit of Al-Ha- kem II., unparalleled in the world. It was all of ivory and precious woods and stones, inlaid, and fastened with gold and silver nails ; it cost some £250,000, equal, certainly, now to a million sterling ! In it was kept the famous copy of the Koran made by Othman, and stained with his blood. It was contained in a box covered with gold tissue, embroidered with pearls and rubies, and placed on a lectern made of aloe, with gold nails. This pulpit disappeared not very long ago. At the hour of the Azalkh this book was opened and read by the Iman, and then taken to where the gold and silver sacred vases were placed, which appeared in the illuminations of the month of Ra- madJin. To right and left of this sanc- tuary were tlie habitations of the clergy. To the right was also a door leading by a passage to the Khalif's Palace, wliich was close by. Al-Hakem II., who built the Mih-rJib and Maksurkh, began these works about 961 a.c. (according to the historian of Magreb, Ibn Adzari, published in the original by Dozy of CORDOVA CATHEDRAL. 117 Leyden, and translated by S. Gayangos for Sr. Madrazo, ' Cordova, ' pp. 173-4). The cupola or ' cubba ' of the Mih-rib was put up iu 965, according to some hitherto unedited documents. The mosaic omamentation surpasses all the finest examples of this Byzantine art elsewhere in Italy, Africa, or the East. It was the Greek Psephosis and Moorish Sofeysafah. The Emperor Leo sent the earliest examples of it to Ab- du-r-rhaman for his palace of Azzahra. The Cordovan khalit, Hakem, sent an embassy to Constantinople, asking for artists skilled in this peculiar way of giving to glass, flint, and metals the effect and appearance, and almost the texture, of a velvet and gold brocade. The artists came, bringing as presents 325 quintals of this enamelled mosaic. The designs are Byzantine, as all ob- jects of art and luxury were in Western Europe in the 10th century already. This as well as the rest of the mosque must have shone like a palace of the 'Arabian Nights,' w-hen in the festi- Wties of the Ehamadhan this Mih-rab alone was lightedupbya lamp number- ing 1454 lights, and the 60lbs. -taper placed by the khalif. The rest of the mosque was lighted by 4 lamps like the above ; 280 candelabra, most of bronze. The total number of lights was 10,805, and 750 arrobas of oil were used per month. (See ' Al. Makkari, vol. i. book 3d, chapter u. ) The Cufic inscription refers to the two columns placed at the entrance in 965 A.c. by Al-Hakem. An important work is now (1895) being carried out in the mosque under the direction of D. Ricardo Velazquez, in the discovery of hidden artistic beauties and the gradual restoration of part of the mosque to its primitive condition. Thus in the Capilla de Castilla the poor modern barrel vaulting has been replaced by the beautiful old ceiling ; and a portion of the floor has been relaid, on a lower level, with marble slabs from the province of Huelva, so as to leave the pillar bases visible. The /oryjial erection of the mosque into a cathedral took place in 1238, under the usual name of Sta. Maria. The lateral aisles were converted into chapels. B^igh Chapel. — Built in 1547, by Hernan Ruiz, and finished by his son and Diego de Praves, 1599. The style of it is Morisco-Gothic and plateresque. The fine retablo, which cost 50,000 ducats, is the work of the Jesuit I^Iatias Alonso, who began it in 1618, and finished it ten years after. It is made out of the rosy jasper from Carcabuey, with gilt bronze ornaments. The painting is by Antonio Palomino. The statues indifferent. The tabernacle, also by Alonso, aided by Sebastian Vidal (1653), is very rich, and well executed. Observe the magnificent silver lamp hanging from the roof, and weighing 16 arrobas (1636). Choir. — This is the work of Hernan Ruiz, who commenced it in 1523, and finished it in 1539. The style is pla- teresque and effective. The stalls are sixty-three in number, and by Isabel Famesio's favourite sculptor, Pedro Duque Cornejo, 1757 — churrigueresque, but there is great finishing in the elaborate details. The mahogany pul- ]nts, \vith attributes of the Evangelists, are clumsy — the work of Miguel Verdi- guier (1766). £ntre los coros lies Lope de Rueda, the great comic writer, superior in many points to ilolifere. Chapels. — The forty-five chapels and offices around the naves are mostly very inditterent. They date generally from a period unfavourable to taste in art, and their pictures, statues, etc., are very indifferent. Notice notwith- standing Capilla de San Andres (1628). — A incture of St. Eulogio, by V. Carducho 118 CORDOVA. C. San Estchan. — Mart}Tclom of the saint by Luis Zambraiio. C. del Cardenal Salazar. — Finished 1705; founded by Cardinal Salazar; churrigueresque. In the sacristia mayor inquire for the fine Custodia of Arfes (Gothic), for the Cruz Antigua, full of florid Gothic details, but ill re- paired. The relics are kept here. The beautiful Custodia of Arfes was begun 1513, and finished 1518. Observe especially the chapel of Villaviciosa, with the adjoining splen- didly decorated Moorish chapel, for- merly the Cajnlla Mayor of the first Christian church. Here, in the latter, was the Mahsurah once, or Seat of the Khalif, all paved with silver. Ges- pedes is buried in front of Chapel of San Pablo (ob. 1608). Observe this artist's paintings of St. John, St. Andrew, and The Last Supper, his masterpiece. Over altar de San Rafael hangs the Apparition of the saint, a fine painting by the same master. A pillar is shown with a rudely traced Crucifixion, said to have been the Avork of a Christian captive, who executed this wonder Avith his nail, and whilst he was for years fastened to this pillar ; an improbable storj-, as the Moors never could have toler- ated a Christian captive within a mosque. Minor Cliurclies. — Cule-'jiata da San llqMito. — Dates middle of 14th cen- tury. Built by Alfonso XI., in thanks- giving for his victory at Tarifa, when lie won the battle del Salado, 1340. Philip v., in 1728, removed to this church the Capilla Real, formerly in the cathedral, and founded in 1371 by Henrique II. Ferdinand IV. and his son, the chivalrous and gallant Alfonso XL, lie buried here. This church was modernised in 1729, and is in the vile taste of tliat period. In tlie High Chapel lie the bodies of tlie father mother, and brother of the yran capitan, Gonzalo de Cordova, luckier than tliis great hero, whose ashes were scattered to the winds during the French inva- sion. Here also lies the erudite ' cro- nista ' Ambrosio de Morales, in a plain tomb erected by his pupil. Cardinal Sandoval y Rojas, Archbishop of To- ledo. The privileges, etc. , of the Royal Chapel and Colegiata were suppressed by government in 1852. Church of Sta. Marina de Aguas Santas. — Modernised, except on the outside. Founded in 7th century, but rebuilt after the conquest. Some in- diff"erent pictures and tombs of tlie Benavides, and of a Manjuesa de Gua- dalcazar (ob. 1803), who (a rare in- stance in Spain) was a blue stocking, Doctora en Filosofla y Letras Humanas, Fellow of the S^wnish Royal Academy, etc., and died aged thirty-five. Most of the parish churches date 13th and 1 4th centuries, but have been so ill re- paired and churriguerised that they have lost most of their importance. The Belfry Toioer of San Nicolas is very pretty and Moorish-like. Upon it are the words, ' Paciencia, obedi- encia, ' said to have been put up as a re- proof to the nuns of San Martin, for- merly in this square, who objected to this church being erected opposite to them, as it would impede the prospect they then enjoyed. Visit the finely re- stored church of San Pablo, Avhere, under layers of j)lastcr, have been discovered a fine ceiling, dainty Moor- ish ornament, and good capitals ; also, outside the town, the picturesquely- situated Santuario de N. Sra. de Fuen- sauta (8tli, 9th, and 10th September are great holidays, kept up here with pomp and pious jollification). Observe four cojiper paintings, ascribed to Teniers, one of which represents the ' Crowning Christ with Thorns.' The Alcazar, or Khalifs Palace, was CORDOVA THE ALCAZAR. 119 (rery extensive, and occupied the site of the present prison and episcopal palace. Now nothing remains save a few walls and orchards. It was situated W. of the city, and N. of the river. It was the former palace of the Gothic kings, where the khalifs lodged first, and then repaired and modified it, enlarging it considerably. The little we know of this palace, doubtless magnificent and spacious, is derived from Al-Makkari Ibn-Bashkuwal, and Aben Hayykn, who mention its wonderful gardens and halls, and its baths pro\-ided with water brought from the Guadalquivir through a hydraulic brick machine, called Albo- lafia. These baths existed till the end of the 15th centurj^, when the machine, probably in the shape of a huge hy- draulic wheel, was destroyed because its noise ke^it Queen Isabella awake, when she was lodged in the Alcazar. The Alcazar Nuevo, now a prison, was for- merly the residence of the Santo Oficia (Inquisition), and built in 1328 by Al- fonso XI. It is a square, enclosed by a thick wall, with towers at the angles. Tlie interior, with its twenty dungeons (calabozos) and seven patios, we ad%nse readers to abstain from visiting, for it is now the abode of misery, vice, filth, and neglect The gardens of the Al- cazar are most indifferent and weedy. In the chapel is a good Crucifixion by A. del Castillo. The Bishop's Palace dates of 15th century, but was considerably repaired and almost rebuUt in 1745, in the chur- rigueresque style. Ferdinand VII., whose fate seems to have been to dwell in confinement, was kept here a pri- soner in 1S2-3, and attempted to escape. In the Town ITall are kept the archives of the city, defii;ient in general interest and ill arranged. Musco. — Cordova never produced ^eit painters — Pablo de Cespedes, Arcasia, and their pupils, Alohedano, Zambrano, Raphaelesque in his style, Vela, who imitated Carducci, Contreras and Pena, and the modem Monroy, are the only names we know of. The style they adopted was Italian and Sevillian. The present picture - gallery contains some 239 paintings — all rubbish. Among other curiosidades, we may mention a small bronze deer, said to be Moorish work, and to have been found in the gardens of Azzhara. Walls and Gates. — The walls are all of Jkloorish workmanship, though re- paired since. They are of tapia, and strengthened by bold turrets, square, octagon, etc. The gates have lost much, and many all their pictirresque former character ; notice, nevertheless, that of Almodovar ; of El Osario, flanked by turrets ; that of El Puente, after designs by Herrera ; the two good bas-si-relievi above are ascribed to Torri- giano. Julius Caesar describes the ori- ginal circumvallation, of which little has been changed since (b.c. 11-19). Around the Almodovar gate lay the ancient Juderia, or Jews' quarters, and it was called by the Moors after them ' Bab-1- Yahud. ' The tower close to it, Torre dc la Malniuerte, dates 1406. The Bridge. — The bridge over the Guadalquivir is said by the Arab writers to have been originally buUt by Octa- vius Cffisar, but it was entirely rebuilt by the khalifs of Cordova. It is com- posed of sixteen arches, and is very picturesque, as well as the iloorish mills close to it, and the Calahorra (Kalat horreah) tower, with its poly- gonal barbican and buttresses, is most elTective, and played an important part in the siege of Cordova by Pedrc of Castile. The streets of iloori-sh Cordova are the first tliat were ever paved in Europe, and were so by order of Abdu-r-rhanian, in 850. The principal ones are the Calle de la Feria, now de San Fernan lo, 120 CORDOVA. San Pablo, Caruiceria, Sta. Victoria, etc. Visit the general market in the old square of La Corredera, so called because it was the site where tourna- nicnts and corrcr toros took place. The wooden galleries, etc., date 1683, and are the work of the popular and famous Alcalde Konquillo. Readers of ' Don Quixote' will not fail to visit the Potro, a popular quarter, so called because formerly a horse-market {potro, a iilly). Visit the Chapel of Hospital del Car- denal, which was part of the mosque built by Al-Manssour, near his palace. El Triunfo is a heavj', clums}' monu- ment, erected by Bishop Barcia in com- memoration of the miraculous ajiparition of St. Eafael, the tutelar of Cordova, whose statue crowns this wretched monument (1765). Private Houses and Prouthits. — Most of the fine old solares built in the 15th and 16th centuries no longer exist, or are so disfigured as to deserve no atten- tion. Observe the house of the ]\Iar- quescs del Carpio (13th centurj'), and that which belonged to the family of Paez de Castillejo. Of the 900 baths, remains of two only may be seen, in Calle del Bauo Alta, No. 5, and Calle del Bano Baja, No. 10. They have been sadly disfigured, but still preserve their marble columns, the square lumbreras (louvres, loopholes), etc. In the Calle de las Cabczas is also a house called de las Cabezas, from the heads of the Infantes de Lara, that were placed on the facade. The ballad, mentioning hovv these heads, treache- rously cut off, were served before the Infantes' father, is veiy characteristic of that time : — Un costoso plato faka, Aj', fruta tcmprana I etc. (See A. dc Morales' 'Cr6n.,'lib. xxvi., etc.) Visit the Moorish houses, called Ca-su de la Cuadra, in the Plazucla dc San Nicolas, remarkable for its gal lery of jasper columns, with Byzantine capitals, and a beautiful arch, sadly whitewashed. That of Las Campanas. opposite to Chmcli de Santiago, also preserves vestiges of past splendour and taste. "Within the city is also the Campillo (now Campo Santo), where Chiistian martjTS were put to death, and the site of the Roman fortress and Moorish Al- cazar. It was hereabouts that grew the celebrated plane-tree, planted by Julius Caesar after the battle of Munda, and which Martial mentions : — In Tartessiacis domus est notissima terris, Qua dives placidum Corduba Bietin amat. E/>. 62, book ix. The house of El Conde del Aguila ( Plaza Anto. Cabrera) is also cm'ious. Excursions. — Three miles N.W. of Cordova in a deliesa belonging to !Marq. de Guadalcazar, and where now but very rare fragments of broken pillars are found, rose once the faiiy palace of Azzihra, huilt by Abdu-r- rhaman An-nasir, for his sultana of that name. It was all of marbles, jasper, and stone, with great richness of decoration — the statue of the favour- ite being placed over the door. The architect was the most famous that Stamboul could produce, and this royal village, a Moorish Versailles, sprang forth, as if by magic, under the wand of the Louis XIV. of that period. His harem contained 6300 women and 300 baths. His body-guard amounted to 12,000 men. His household consumed 13,000 lbs. of meat daily. The works were begun in 936-7 A.c, and lasted many years. 3000 mules, horses, and camels were daily employed, with 10,000 workmen, who were paid from one to tliree dirhems a-day (about £1). The khalif was so absorbed by the works CORDOVA — EXCURSIONS. 121 that lie even missed three Fridays' Za- lah at the mosque, upon which the the- ologian Mundhar threatened him pub- licly with hell fire. 4300 marble columns were brought from Rome, Nar- bonne, Timis, etc. The total cost amounted to 7i millions of dinahrs (524 millions sterling), which were de- frayed by the third of the emperor's revenue. Many other details concern- ing this wondrous palace and its two mosques may be found in Al-Makkari's histories — ' Hist, of Magi-eb, ' by Ben Adzari, etc. There is here a buried mine of Moorish art, that calls loudly for a Mariette or a Layard. See Rccuer- dos, etc., de Espana, Cordova, p. 407. An excm'sion may be also made, espe- cially in summer or spring, to the Arri- zafa, ^ league from Cordova, on the slopes of the Sierra, and in a charming situation. It was the Rizzefah, a villa erected by Abdu-r-rh^man, but of which nothing now remains. Sevei'al country houses on these slopes may be rented as a whole or in apartments, and upon very moderate terms. The country around is woody, and pleasant paseos can be taken. The carob-tree, ever- green oak, variegated cistus, myrtles, and palms grow forest-like. Accord- ing to Coude, that master in erudite errors, the first palm ever seen in Spain was planted here by Abdu- r-rhaman, who is said to have composed to it the melancholy verses in which he compares his life to that of the tree transplanted from other lands : — Tu tambien, insigne palma, Eres aqui forastera, etc. Close by are the Hermitages of Val- paraiso. The Ermitas are very pic- turesquely situated, and enclosed by a low wall. The head hermit, or hermano mayor, has a larger house than the rest. The chapel is indifferent. Monastic and eremitical life in Cordova is of great antiquity, and, it is thought, was intro- duced by the celebrated Bishop Hosiu-s, who had seen it in Egypt. These wretched hovels, now chiefly inhabited by laziness and ignorance, were once the refuge to which worn-out valour, deluded ambition, and often repentant crime, fled during the middle ages. Around are several lovely rides, througli rose-gardens, pine-forests (Piiius^xinea), chestnuts, and olives. The rosales of Cordova were once the pride of the Moor, and sung by their poets. They culti- vated them vrith. great care and inge- nuity. Ebn-el-Amam's 'Hadji,' 'Abdu- el-Sair, ' and other special treatises, are cm-ious to consult on this matter. Another ride takes one to the ruins of a hieronjinite convent, looking over the Campina, and lying amid orange- groves, evergreen oaks, and luxm-iant olives. These latter are reckoned the best in Andalusia, though some prefer the Sevillanas. Lope de Kueda, in liis charming 'entremes,' called 'Las Acei- tunas,' praises those of Cordova ; and Lope de Vega, in his ' Battle of the Cats,' 'La Gatomaquia,' says, 'Las sabrosas de Cordoba aceitunas. ' The coscoja, or scarlet oak (from which the kermes proceeds), the madroiios, or strawberry-tree, quejigo, the purple sauge, the straw-coloured gualda, woad blue, splendid nigela, ^rill draw the at- tention of all botanists and lovers of flowers. The mineral wealth of the sierra is great. Coalfields, lead mines rich in silver, copper, antimony, and calamine veins, are now being rapidly developed by foreign capital, and the mineralogist will have abundant mat- ter for observation. Nor will the sportsman lose here his time, for tlie sierra abounds with game ; there are 242 species of birds ; the lynx {Felix 2^a'>'di7ia ; the giifo {Gipastus harlahis) ; the wild boar, deer, hares, and especially rabbits. Anglers 122 coruSa- will not find much to do in the Guadalquivir and affluents, which, nevertheless, produce tencas (tenches), bar bos (barbel), and exquisite eels, (anguilas). About 2 ni. N. of the city lie the lead-smelting works of the Linares and Alamillos Company. The visitor is shown over with a permit from the city offices. Excursion to Montiu.a. Interesting for its wine-cellars, as being the birthplace of El Gran Capitan, Gonsalvo de Cordoba, and for the palace of the Dukes of Medina -Celi. Fifth station on the Malaga line. Fares, ist cl., pes. 6.35 ; 2d cl., pes. 4-7S- MoHtilLi. — A decent posada. This small and now unimportant city, pop. 14,654, is pictur- esquely situated on the two hills of EI Castillo and Las Sileras, from which the view is exten- sive. Its churches are indifferent. In the highest part stood once the most glorious castle in all Andalusia, which was built by the Gran Capitan's father, Pedro Fern, de Cdrdoba, and demolished by order of Ferdinand the Catholic, to punish its owner. Marques del Priego, for having imprisoned within its dungeons Fernan Gomez de Herrera. The site is now occupied by some large granaries. This, the Roman Munda Betica, is now a dull, backward town, celebrated only for its exquisite Montilla, a peculiar, most flavoury sort of dry, light sherry, with much body, and which communicates aroma to all the wines it is mixed with, and especially sherry. The ainontillado sherry indicates a class ol wine which in flavour somewhat resembles that of Montilla. It is almost ignored elsewhere than here, but must some day rival sherry itself, and there are fortunes to be made here, were speculation and industry to venture establish- ments. There are several wine-growers, whose bodegas may be visited ; among them we shall mention Sr. Alvear, a gentleman of Anglo- Spanish origin. These wines have no other rivals in Spain, save, perhaps, those of Pago de Rio Frio, near Cabra, 3 leagues from Baena. Books of Reference. — 1. 'Corografia de la Provincia y Obispado,' by Casas- Deza. First vol. only published. Cor- doba, Nogues y Mante, 1838. 2. ' Breve Tratado de Geografia de la Provincia de Cordoba,' by same ; Cordoba, Garcia, 1841. Both excellent works. 3. ' Indicador Cordobes,' etc., written especially for travellers by Las-Casas- Deza ; Cordoba, Rodriguez, 1857. Ex- cellent and accurate. 4. ' Recuerdos y Bellezas de Espana,' by Pedro de Madrazo ; ' Quia de Cor- doba,' 1875; 'Manualito de Cor- doba. ' 5. ' Estudio Descriptivo de los Monu- mentos Arabes de Granada, Sevilla y Cordoba,' con grabados y pianos, Rafael Contreras, Madrid, 1883. A careful and valuable work. CO RUN A (La). La Coruna (English Corunna) is the capital of the province of the same name ; suffragan of Santiago. Popula- tion about 42,000. Capitania-General Galicia. Routes and Conveyances. 1. From Madrid in 25 hours ; dis- tance, 831 kil. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 83.05; 2d cL, 62.20; 3d ch, 37.35. Two through trains per day ; one of the most comfortable linos in Spain. Scenery fine. Buffets at Avila, Medina del Campo, A''alladolid, Venta de Bancs, Leon. Monforte and Lugo. CORUffA — ROUTES, ETC. 123 Route (to Leon, p. 2\%).—Orbifjo. — The bridge over the Orbigo was, on the 10th July 1434, the site of thejjos d'armes called El Paso Hoiiroso, per- formed by Don Siiero de Quinones, when he challenged and fought during ten days all knights who passed on then- way to the grand jubilee at Santiago ; and this he did in order to be entitled to remove an iron link which he wore round his neck every Thursday in token of his captivity to the lady of his love. 177 lances were split, seventy-eight knights having accepted the challenge, and, though called a gentle pass, one knight was killed and eleven wounded; but Don Suero proved victorious, and the link was removed by heralds amid great pomp and ceremony. His sword is at the Madrid armoury. The coimtry is fiat and most unin- teresting, glaring and dusty in summer, and wind-blown in the wintry months. Astorga (Prov. of Leon). — Bishop's see, 4803 inhab. Fonda Fernandez. — This very ancient city, the Ashirica Augusta of Pliny, was an important centre of communication in the time of the Romans, and four vice diverged, leading to Braga, Zaragoza, Tarragona, and to Ac^uitaine, across the Pyrenees. Its walls, of Roman work, were re- spected by Witiza, an exception which ho extended only to Leon and Toledo. They still subsist in all their picturesque- ness and strength, linked here and there by massive cubos, and forming a pro- longed oblong square, extending from K. to W., and following the level of the ground. On the E. extremity, several Roman sarcophagi are embedded in them. Here, in 1875, was found tho sculptured open hand, with the inscription Ws Zeus Se/juTrtj 'law ("One is Zeus — Serapis — lao") dating probably from the 3rd or 4th century. [See below, p. 178, the Moorish hand in decoration.] During the Penin- sular war Astorga offered a heroic re- sistance first to Loison (1810), and next to Junot, who was obliged to retire, but subsequently entered, a capitula- tion being off'ered. Its capabilities of resistance, were, however, scanty, and the surrender excusable. Astorga is the capital of La Maragateria, a dis- trict of some four leagues square, situ- ated between the Picos of El Teleno and Foncebadon, to S. W. of Astorga, and exclusively peopled by the honest, active, and interesting race of Maragatos (Mauri Capti), who are descendants, it is supposed, from the Moors, whose wide breeches and part of their costume they have preserved. The principal sight here is The Cathedral. — The see of Astorga is as old as 347, when its bishop, Domi- tiau, was present at the Council of Sardes. The cathedral dates 1471, and, owing to several repairs, has been modernised, and presents a medley of Gothic, churrigueresque, and plater- esque. The interior is divided into three naves, the lateral ones being very nar- row and lower than the central. It is 58 metres long by 23 wide. The stalls of the choir are elaborately carved in imitation of the early period of Gothic ; they date 1551, and are the work of Tomas and Roberto. The lower row consists of busts of saints of Old Testa- ment ; it is inferior to the upper row, in which admire the male saints on the right, and female saints on the left, according to etiquette, all of the New Testament. Some of the stained glass is good, but not early. The trascoro was chun-iguerised in 1732. The reja and pulpit are fine, and date 1622, by Lazaro Azcain, of BQbao. The finest thing here is the reiablo mayor, the mas- terpiece of Gaspar de Becerra, 1569, and for which the chapter paid 41,000 ducats. It is of pentagonal shape, each 124 CORV S A — llOUTES, ETC. of llie five compartmuiits cousisting of three tiers ; tlie centre of the priucipal tier is occupied by a tabernacle adorned ^Yith figures, and under a canopy sup- ported by two angels ; that of the se- cond represents the Assumption of the Virgin, who is seated on a throne formed by cherubs ; that of the third is her coronation. This gi-and, simple, and beautiful sculptured poem is crowned with gi-oups representing the Passion. The relievos represent the different episodes of the Virgin's life, and are of the three orders. Observe and admire the execution, draperies, attitudes, and expression ; the grouping and general composition are forcible and classical. The cloisters were modernised, and not ineffectively, by Gaspar Lopez, end of ISth century ; the sacristy is of 1772. The remaining churches at Astorga are indifferent. The agimeces and early Gothic of San Francisco may be looked at. On the site of the ruined caslle stood once the proud Palacio of the Marqueses de Astorga. The ruins exhibit good specimens of medi- ffival militaiy architecture. Observe its cubos and buttresses, and the osorio motto, Do nuevo lugar posieron — Moverla jamas podieron ; with a rope and shield, all very pictur- esque. The streets are ill-jjaved ; all is back- ward and desolate. The Paseo Nuevo is pretty. £embibre.—5S6 inliab., situated on the confluence of the Nocedaand Baeza. Villafranca del Vierzo. — This all tourists who intend to make an ex- cursion into the Vierzo will make their head - quarters ; pop. 3800; a decent posada (La Nueva). Lugo,— Pop. 21,298; capital of pro- vince of same name ; bisliop's see ; on the Mifio. Fundus — Meudcz Nunez, Esi)agnol. The best is indifl^erert. Tlie Lucus Augusti of the Romans, who frequented its sulphur baths on the Mino, and of which some remains can be seen, as well as a dyke. The walls are very interesting, 30 ft. to 40 ft. high, and about 20 ft. thick, flanked by cubos, formerly eighty-five in number. The ramparts are now the paseo, and from them the view is pleasant and ex- tensive. The streets are clean. The Plaza Mayor, with arcades on one side, is the rendezvous of local types — Mara- gotas and arrieros. The Library del Obispado contains some 7000 volumes, proceeding from suppressed convents. The only interesting edifice here is The Cathedral. — It dates 1129, when it was built by Maestro Piaymiuido, whose contract with the Chapter is dated that same year. It was finished 1177. The exterior has been modernised, as well as the incongruous towers and cloisters, of which only two lateral doors retain the fonoer style. The interior consists of three naves, well lighted up, Avitli low arches, and a gallery above. The Silleria of 1624 is a good sample of the gallego sculptor, Francisco de Mom-e. This cathedral shares with San Isidore of Leon the privilege of having the consecrated host permanently de manifiesto. The N. doonvay is early and interesting ; within a vesica in the tympanum is a figure of Our Lord, and below is, as a pendant, the Last Supper. The high altar is modern and indifferent. Be- hind is a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Large Eyes ! Ecclesiologists may visit the conventual churches of Los Capuchiuos and Sto. Domingo ; they are 14th century buildings, and though partly modernised, and the former de- secrated, still contain well-preserved details. The mineral spring is about 10 min, walk from the town. Its temperature coruna. 126 is 36° Cent, and it is most efTicacious in nervous complaints, diseases of the skin, etc. General Jloorc, in his retreat on Coruna, halted here (Jan. 6, 1809), and gave his worn-out troops some days of rest. Soult, M'ho had been sent in his pursuit, came up soon after, and hesitated to accept the battle presented by the English. Ignorant of the state and numbers of the enemy, the French general adopted a defensive line, and lost time in partial attacks and manoeu- vring. On the 9th the British forces retired in good order, and fell back on La Coruna, unmolested by the French, who were for some time unaware of the retreat of an army which they could so easily have annihilated, had they, with tlieir forces and fresh troops, attacked it at once, and boldly. Betanzos. — Prov. of Coruna ; 7919 inhab. Near the rivers Meudo and Mandeu. 2. From Santiago, 2 diligences daily. Ilinerary. Santiago to Siqueiro Leira CoruQa Leagues. . 2 2l 9^ 3. From Ferrol (see at end of Coruna, Excursion to Ferrol). Steamers. 4. From Bayonne in about 40 hrs. ; from Vigo in 16 hrs. ; from Gijon in 18 hrs. ; from Santander ; also from Liverpool, Southampton, Plymouth, London, Havre and Marseilles. For all these and other routes see advertise- ments in time-bills and papers and wall placards. The coasting vessels are very slow and uncomfortable, while the larger steamers — such as those of the Royal Mail (calling only on their outward passage), the Anglo-Dominion Company, and the Internationale — are exceedingly uncertain. CORUNTA. Inns. — Hotel de Europa, Calle de San Andres ; Hotel de Francia, Rua ISTueva ; Fonda Carrilana (coaches for Santiago), Calle Real. Cafds. — El Suizo and Oriental, both in the Calle Real. Fost Office and Telegraph Office. — Both in the Plaza Nueva de Maria Pita. H.B.M. Consul.— G. A. P. Talbot, Esq. United States. — J. Harmony. BanJcei's. — Sobrinos de Jose Pastor ; Messrs. Guyatt and Rowstron. Clubs. — Sporting Club ; Circulo de Artesanos ; Tertulia de Confianza. Coruiia is the chief seaport of Galicia and rival of Vigo. Her trade, however, after many fluctuations, shows a decided falling off. The total imports for the year 1897 were of the value of £330,758, and the total exports, £185,061. The number of British trading ships enter- ing the port in 1897 was 55, of a total tonnage of 149,946 tons. The number of Spanish vessels entering the port was 957, with a tonnage of.707,239 tons. Still known to British sailors as ' The Groyne ' {La Cruna), it lies half-way between Capes Ortegal and Finisterre, in a situation most favour- able to trade. The bay is spacious and most secure, ships being able to enter it at all times and in all weather. The port itself is defended by the Castillo de San Anton and that of San Diego, and the roadstead by Castillo de Sta. Cruz (eight guns) and battery de la Oza. The climate is delicious, and can be strongly recom- mended to invalids. The mortality is 1.32. The sea-bathing is first-rate. Livinc is good and fairly cheap. Fruit 12G CO RUN A. and excellent fish abound. Indceil, anglers can make this their head- quarters, and scour the trout- streams which flow into the bay ; the best being the Lamia, Eo, Turia, and Allones. A little roughing -it is still necessary inland, but matters have grcrtCly improved in that respect. It must be borne in mind, too, here as in in all the north-west, that, with the enhanced means of communication now available, the old uncertain stoppages in out-of-the-way spots may be avoided. The city is di^aded into two very different portions — the upper, alta, por- tion and a lower one, haja, called Pes- caderia, and which, once but a refuge of fishermen, has gradually outstripped the former and older part, and is im- proving and prosperous. The Calle Real and Calle Espoz y Mina are broad, handsome, and much frequented. La Marina is the evening summer paseo, and a most charming one it is. Englishmen will not fail to visit the Jardin de San Carlos, in the centre of which stands the tomb of Geneial Moore, with the inscription ; ' Joanes Moore. Exercitus Britannici Dux. Prselio occisus a.d. 1809.' The Paseo de Sta. Margarita commands extensive views on the Bay del Orzan and Torre de Hercules, on the site of a PlicEuician pharos, which rises 1 m. N.W. of the town, and was repaired by order of Trajan. The present one has been con- siderably improved, is 393 ft. high, and can be seen at a distance of 12 m. Thereisa good theatre (Coliseo S.Jorge) ; a large tobacco manufactory, established 1808, which turns out some 898,000 lbs. annually, employs 3000 women, and is worth a visit. The public edifices are most indifferent. The churches are : Santiago, in the upper town, of the 11th century ; observe the S. door, the apse and pulpit. The Colegiata, Gothic (1256), but with a good Byzantine "W. porcli, and a lofty tower. Convent of Sla. Barbara, a fine ba.sso-relievo of ]r>tli ccnturj', over a lateral door. Con- vent of San Francisco, where Pliilip II. lodged when lie came here to embark for England, 1551, and now turned into a presidio ; and in the San Jorge, an old Jesuit church, some pictures (An- nunciation and Purgatory) of Peter Vanderlaken. Historical Notice. — La Coruna, for- merly called La Ci-una (corona), and Groyne by the English, is said to liave been founded by the Phcenicians, and was taken by the Romans, A.U.C. 693. Here, July 26, 1386, John of Gaunt landed, to claim the crown of Castile in right of his wife, the daughter of Pedro el Cruel. Here, May 1588, the Invin- cible Armada was refitted. It was com- posed of 136 ships (59,120 tons), armed with 3165 guns, and manned by 8252 sailors, 2000 volunteers, 2088 galley- slaves, 20,000 veteran troops, and ac- companied, besides, by 290 monks, priests, and familiars, sent to convert the English people, and also attend to the spiritual want of the army ; but the Drakes, Frobishers, and Hawkinses made gi'eat havoc among the Spaniards, and completed the work of destruction which the elements had begun. No doubt can be entertained but that this expedition was, and may be again, a gi-eat lesson to England, for had not the Spaniards lost time in waiting for the Duke of Parma's flotilla, the invadmg army would have lauded undisturbed on the 7th August, and, under the most favourable circumstances of sea and weather, would have marched on to London, and easily have destroyed the capital of the hated ' luglesa ; ' for the so-often-repeated ' Bellona-like ' ap- pearance of the Queen, her address to the troops, etc. , was not till eleven days afterwards, and on the 5th no army, not even the body-guard of the Queen, ha^ CORUNA. 127 been assembled ; and Leicester, with only 4000 men to oppose to 20,000, was but just commencing his entrenched camp at Tilbury. Philip II., on learn- ing the fate of that expedition, wliich had been framed with so much care and at so great an expense, betrayed as little concern as he did again when the victory of Lepanto was aimounced to him at the Escorial. Both events were but the will of God, and on both occasions of joy and sorrow his gi'eat Christian soul checked his pride, and made them weigh equally before God. La Corufia fell a prey to Drake and Norris, April 20, 1589 ; and here again was fought the battle of La Coruna, Jan. 16, 1809, between Sir John Moore, at the head of 14,300 men, and Soult, who commanded 20,000, The British infantry occupied the inferior range of the Elvina hills. The right, formed by Baird's division, approached the enemy, while the centre and left were of necessity ■withheld in such a manner that the French battery on the rocks raked the whole of the line. General Hope's division, crossing the main road, prolonged the line of the right's wing. The reserve was drawn up near Eiris, in the rear of the centre. General Eraser's division remained on the heights immediately before the gates of the city. The action Avas hard. General Baird defeated Foy at Elvina, and Paget re- pulsed La Honssaye ; and had General Eraser's division been brought into action towards night, and when the French were already falling back in confusion, they would have been most signally defeated ; but Sir John Moore was wounded, and so was General Baird ; and Sir John Hope, who now com- manded the forces, pursued the original plan of embarking during the nighty which operation took place in the most admirable order, so that when the French approached the town, which the inhabitants faithfully maintained foi some hours, the English, to their sur- piise, were seen sailing lustily on the main. The English lost about 800 men, and the French some 3000. This battle and retreat have been the cause of much and often angry controversy. Setting aside the opinions of the highest English military authorities, all favour- able to Moore, we shall only quote what his opponent. Marshal Soult, has said of him, ' Ses dispositions furent toujours les plus convenables aux cir- constances, et en profitant habilement des avantages que les localites pouvaient lui fournir pour seconder sa valeur, il m'opposa partout la resistance la plus energique et la mieux calculee ; c'est ainsi qu'il trouva une mort glorieuse devant La Corogne an milieu d'un com- bat qui doit honorcr son souvenu'.' Whilst being carried to his lodgings, the gallant wounded soldier used to ask at intervals if the French were beaten, and being told they were, he expressed a great satisfaction. 'His countenance continued firm, and his thoughts clear ; once only, when he spoke of his mother, he became agi- tated.' His last words were, '1 hope the people of England will be satisfied. I hope my country will to-day do me justice.' ' The battle was scarcely ended when his corpse, wrapped in a military cloak, was interred by the ofiicers of his staff in the citadel of Coruna. ' — Napier's Histoi-y of the Peninsular War, vol. i. Excursion to El Ferrol. — A. By land, 33 m. Rail as far as Betauzos. A charming ride, amid orange groves, through Pnentedeume, on the left bank of the Eume, with a fine bridge. Cape Prior is seen in the distance on the left, standing N. W. of Ferrol and next Cape Priorino, which form the entrance to the port. Follow up the beach to the city. 128 ESCORIAL. B. By sea. A steamer leaves once a-day ; the passage is 1.^ lir. Fcrrol.—?o^. about 26,000. (Prov. of Coruna.) Cadiz, Cartagena, and Ferrol are the three great naval depart- ments into which Spain is divided, which are themselves subdivided into eleven tercios, then provincias, and lastly, distritos maritimos. The present departamento comprises all the ports and arsenals of northern Spain. Inn: Fonda Suiza, Calle Real. El Ferrol, the name of which is derived from el farol, the lighthouse, was a mere fishing village before 1752, when its excellent port and situation drew the attention of Government. Very extensive dockyards (darsenas) were biiilt, which exceed forty acres in extent. The town itself is divided into three parts — the old, the neiu, aiid the esteiro. It is strongly fortified, and considered impregnable ; notwithstand- ing which, it ought and would have been taken in August 1800, by Ad- miral Warren and General Pulteney, had they not lost time and good weather in obtaining possession of minor and unimportant points, such as Graua and Fort San Felipe. It was taken by Soult in 1S09, after six days' blockade ; and the same year Hotham took possession of it with a mere hand- ful of men. The town is slowly im- proving, but would do so much more rapidly if the Government made it a trading port, and not exclusively mili- tary. The dock}'ards are also gradually recovering from their former desolation and absence of material, and the most recent improvements introduced in ship-building by England and France are being adopted vnfh intelligence and activity. Admittance to visit the darsenas, astilleros, etc., is to be easily obtained on application to the authorities. They are entered at Puerta del Parque, leaving to the right the Salas de las Armas. The dockyard is divided into a smaller outward and a larger inward portion. Behind are the dwellings of the opera- tives, and in the N. angle are the found- ries, rope-walks, and magazines. Visit the gradas de construccion or ship-slips, the esteiro, the timber dep6ts of Carran- za, Carragon, etc. There is a pretty Alameda and Fuente del Dique (water here is delicious), a well-proportioned church of San Julian, and some well-conducted naval estab- lishments, such as the Hospital, Bar- racks, de Guardas Marinas, etc. Books of Reference. — 1. ' Historia y descripcion de la C. de la Coruna,' by Vedia and Goossens ; Coruna, Puga, 1845. Very well written, and abound- ing in curious and useful information. 2. Ferrol. — ' Historia y Descripcion' ; Arostegui. 3. The novels of Doha E. Pardo do Bazan ; also the 'Cancioncro Gallego, ' by Perez Ballesteros, in the Biblioteca de Tradiciones Populares. ESCORIAL. Prov. of Madrid, diocese of Toledo, pop. 1726, including both villages. Route and Conv. — It will be advis- able to visit the Escorial whilst at Madrid. There are three trains daily, starting from the Estacion del Norte, Madrid, besides extra ones on holidays; distance, 51 kil. ; fares, 1st cl., pes. 5.90 ; 2d cl., pes. 4.40. Time, \\ hr. Omnibuses are found in attendance at the station, which convey travellers to the village of Escorial in 20 min. for 2r. a head, and 2r. large trunks, Ir. smaller, and ^r. for hat-boxes, etc. 3S CHURCH. 1. PRINCIPAL ENTRANCE AND I 2. COURT OF THE KINGS (Pa\ reyes). 3. VESTIBULE OF THE CHURCH| 4. CHOIR OF THE SEMINARISTS 5. CENTRE OF THE CHURCH 1 PROJECTION OF THE DOM 6. GREATER CHAPEL. 7. HIGH ALTAR. 8. CHAPEL OF ST JOHN. 9. CHAPEL OF ST MICHAEL. 10. CHAPEL OF ST MAURICE. 11. CHAPEL OF THE ROSARY. 12. TOMB OF LOUISA CARLOTA. 13. CHAPEL OF THE PATROCINll 14. CHAPEL OF THE CRISTO DE Ij MUERTE. 15. CHAPEL OF THE ELEVEN Tl VIRGINS. 16. FORMERCHAPELOFTHEPATlj 17. SACRISTY. 37 P ^0 PALACE. 18. PRINCIPAL COURT OF THE PALACE. 19. LADIES' TOWER. 20. COURT OF THE MASKS. 21. THE APARTMENTS OF THE ROYAL CHILDREN. 22. ROYAL ORATORY. 23. ORATORY WHERE PHILIP II. DIED. SEMINARY. 24. ENTRANCE TO SEMINARY. 25. CLASSROOMS. 26. OLD PHILOSOPHICAL HALL. 27. OLD THEOLOGICAL HALL. 28. CHAMBER OF SECRETS. 29. OLD REFECTORY. 30. ENTRANCE TO THE COLLEGE. 31. COLLEGE YARD. CONVENT. 32. CLOCK TOWER. 33. PRINCIPAL CLOISTER. 34. COURT OF THE EVANGELISTS. 35. PRIOR'S CELL. 36. ARCHIVES. 37. OLD CHURCH. 38. VISITORS' HALL. 39. MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY. 40. CONVENT REFECTORY. ESCORIAL - MONASTERY. 129 Inns. — La Miranda, Calle Florida Blanca ; Foiula Niieva, Calle Pegue- riiios ; La liosci : all fair, La Miranda much the best. All the hotels are near tlio Escorial, in the E.scorial de Arriba. Good cafe and cercle at the Miranda. A cicerone is no longer a necessary evil, as each portion of the building is shown by an intelligent oificial ; and the old regulation demanding a card of admission, to be procured before- hand, at some delay, has been abolished. The Escorial can be seen in a day, but a couple of days are well spent in it. The hours for visiting the different portions of the Escorial are — Church and Pari//ico)i— Open from 10 a.m. to 12 P.M., and from 2 P.M. to i P.M. ; Palace shown about 1 p.m. Orders (papfletas) for Palace and Casita ob- tained, free, at No. 3 Calle de la Parada. General Description. — There are two small villages close to each other which bear the name of El Escorial, derived from the scorite of iron, vestiges from former iron-mines. They are dis tinguished by Escorial de Abajo and that of Arriba, wliich latter comprises several miserable granite-built houses and half-ruined edifices, used in other times as cavalry - barracks, etc. The Escorial is a sitio real, or royal residence, and is called from that, and from the Palace and Monastery, ' San Lorenzo el Keal.' There is still a season or temporada during the summer months, and were there better hotels and some comforts, its pinares and chestnut woods would be a greatresource to the parched- up Madrilenos ; and if the archives of the kingdom could be removed hither from out-of-the-way Simancas, many advantages would be gained by travel- lers, nacionales, tlie villagers themselves, and not a little for the edifices, which ai'e sadly neglected. The Sights are, the Monastery, comprising the Church, Pantheon, Library, and tlie Palace ; the Casila del Principe ; the more indifferent Silla de Felipe IL , La Fresneda, etc. Monastery. — This stupendous edi- fice — a mountain of granite shaped into a palace, a church, and a convent, the leviathan of architecture — is reckoned by Spaniards as the eighth marvel of the world. It nevertheless belongs to that class of the oppressive sublime and gigantic, which, whether in nature or art, awes or strikes at first, and then very soon only causes ennui. To under- stand the Escoiial it is neces-sary to have studied deeply and most impartially the character and genius of its founder; for this is not a monument which is the expression of an age or a people, but bears the stamp of a man of a special train of thought and feeling. Philip II. must be judged not in the light of the 19th, but in that of the IGth cen- tury. There is no doubt that the Esco- rial existed already, ideally, in the mind of his grandmother, Crazy Jane, whose morbid devotion verged on in- sanity, and in Charles V.'s early and constant desire to retire into seclusion, and his death in a convent. Spain must be in a manner explained by the East, and never by the North, as it too often is. And thus, after the fivshion of the Eastern sultans, the Spanish kings have always sought the seclusion of their palaces, which their piety and the bur- den of sovereignty turned into convents. The Monastery of the Escorial is the expression of Philip's character, never perfectly understood by historians. Suf- fice it, for the present, to observe that as he was the proude>t among kings, and the most devout amongst monks, it was not all his fault if he built convents that look like palaces, and palaces that were also convents. The Escorial was built in compliance with the desire 130 ESCORIAL — MONASTERY, often expressed by Charles V. to Philip, to have a burial-house for him and his descendants, and as a solemn act of gratitude to his patron saint, St. Law- rence, to whose protection he ascribed the \-ictory of San Quintin, which liap- pened on that saint's very day (Aug. 10, 1557). It was not a panic-inspired vow, as has so often been repeated, made dming the action, nor was there any church of St. Laurent destroyed during the action. The battle was won by Philibert of Savoy, and Philip II. arrived only four days after the victory. The founder's 'Carta de Dotacion,' in Cabrera's ' Vida de Felipe II.,' WTitten and signed by Philip, contains all his reasons for founding the Escorial. It runs thus : — 'In acknowledgement of the many and gi-eat blessings which it has pleased God to heap on us and continue to us daily, and, inasmuch as He has been pleased to direct and guide our deeds and acts to his Holy service, and in maintenance and defence of His holy faith and religion, and of justice and peace within our realms; cousideriug, likevrise, what the emperor and king, my lord and father, in a codicil which he lately made, committed to our care, and charged us with, respecting his tomb, the spot and place where his body and that of the empress and queen, my lady and mother, should be placed ; it being just and meet that their bodies should be most duly hon- oured with a befitting burial-ground, and that for their souls be said continu- ally, masses, prayers, anniversaries, and other holy records, and because we have, besides, determined that when- ever it may please God to take us away to Him, our body should rest in the same place and spot near theirs . . . for all these reasons we found and erect the Monastery of St. Lorenzo el Ileal, near the town of El Escorial, in the diocese and archbishopric of Toledo, the which \\'e dedicate in the name of the Blessed St. Lawrence, on account of the special devotion which, as we liave said, we pray to this glorious saint, and in memory of the favour and victories which on his day we received from God. Moreover, we found it for the order of St. Jerome, on account of our special affection and respect for this order, and that which was also bestowed upon it by the emperor and king, my father. ' For two years he was looking for some spot, in the ^dcinity of Madrid, which might be favourable to his pur- pose, and at last fixed on the wild, rocky, and secluded pine-clad slopes of the Guadarrama — the verj' frame for such a picture. Juan Bautista de To- ledo was called from Naples, and en- tmsted witli the design. The first stone was laid on April 23, 1565, and on August 20 the church was begun. The real designer was Philip himself, who was a man of great and pure taste, an enlightened and generous patron of artists. He xised to come frequently from Madrid to watch the progress of his creation from the summit of a hill close by, and suggested changes, and advised different details. The erection of this, the large.st and first great edi- fice in Spain into which the Grteco- lloman element was cast, constituted an important epoch in the history of Spanish art. Its characteristics are : vast proportions, admirable harmony and unity of design, simplicity, mas- siveness, grandeur. Whatever defects or qualities are noticeable must be as- cribed to Philip, who influenced the architect's decision ; but it must never be forgotten what its object was, the means employed to attain it, and the general efi'ect attending the execution. In 1567 Toledo died, and his first ayu- dante, Juan de Herrera, succeeded him. This other great man made ESCORIAL — CHURCH. 131 oeveral happy alterations, but, on the whole, followed the original designs. He was ably aided by Fray Antonio de Villacastin, and the building rapidly advancing, was completed 13th Sept. 1584, tAventy-one years after it had been begun, and at the then enonnous cost of about £660,000. The edifice itself — that is, without the offices, etc. — is a rectangular parallelo- gram, of 744 ft. (Span.) long, N. to S., and 580 ft E. to W. The square covers 3002 ft, and a surface ground of 500,000 ft It is of the Doric order, and made entirely of Berroquena stone and of granite, of which there are quar- ries in the vicinity. The distribution is thus : — The quadrangles were ilivided into three parts from E. to W. ; tliat in the middle formed the church, por- tico, and principal entrance ; that towards the S. was made into five cloisters ; the part to the N. was di- vided into two portions, one allotted to the habitation of ladies and gentlemen of the household, and the other to the convent and offices. On the E. side Toledo drew forth and out from the line another square for the palace, which also comprised the high chapel of the chui-ch, so that tribunes should be made into it from the royal apart- ments. Thus the colossal edifice was divided ; from its angles and centre spring eight towers, about 200 ft. high, and it is crowned by the cupola or ciraborio of the church. The facades are majestic, but some- what, as a French author says, ' of an awful simplicity.' The western one is the finest, 60 ft high and 740 ft long. It has two towers at the angles, and three noble entrances. The eastern fafade has nothing to characterise it except the back of the high church and itfl front The S. facade is the most denuded, and looks not a little like a huge poor-honse or barracks ; and bar- racks they were, indeed, for 300 Jeroni- mites, a portion of the vast army of monks, the sturdy soldiers of the faith, who fought and won the battle of the mind against barbarism, and handed dovra the knowledge and the practice of Christianity. The N. side has three spacious entrances, leading to the Cole- gio and Palace. Everything in the edifice is on a colossal scale. Suffice it to state that there are 16 courts, 40 altars, 1111 windows outside, 1562 inside ; 1200 doors, 15 cloisters, 86 staircases, 3000 ft. of fresco -painting, 89 fountains, and about 32 leagues of surface to vralk upon. It is an error to suppose that the strong-minded archi- tects ever intended to represent in its general shape a reversed gridiron, the instrument of St. Lorenzo's martjTdom — it is purely imaginative. The roofs are covered with slates and lead. PrhicijHil Entrance is the "W. one. Over the portico are the Libraries. Enter now the Patio de los Reyes. — Is 230 ft. long by 136 ft. mde — so called from six colossal statues representing the six kings of the house of David ; indiffer- ently executed by Monegro in granite, witli portions in white marble and crowns and insignia in gilt bronze. That of the tutelar saint, placed over the portal, is also by the same. The Clivirch. (Templo) was begun in 1563 and finished in 1586. It is considered the masterpiece of Herrera, and the triimiph of the Graeco-Roman applied to Christian temples. It is 320 ft. long, 230 ft. -wide, and 320 ft high to the top of the cupola. It is all granite and of the Doric style ; the greatest simplicity prevails, and ma- jesty, height, and vast proportions are its characteristics. The form is a square basilica, assuming the shape of a Greek cross. The roof rests on four 132 ESCORIAL — CHURCH. very massive square pieis, which corre- si>oud to eight others placed iu the walls. Over all these run twenty-four arches, forming six naves, so combined that three naves are seen from every part of the temjile. The two principal naves form tlie Greek cross, and are 53 ft. wide and 113 ft. high. The Chapels and Altars. — The first on the left, called De los Doclores, has live altars with pictures of saints by Alonso Sanchez Coello and two by Luis de Carbajal. The tomb and statue of the Infanta Dona Carlota are indifferent. In that of El Patroeinio are also several pictures of female saints by tlie same painters. See, besides, several others by Pelegrino Tibaldi, and by Luca Cangiagi, and Luis de Carbajal, who followed El Mudo's manner. No- tice especially all those by this latter (Juan Fernandez Navarette), who is to be sought for here ; admire his St. Philip and Santiago, St. Barnabas and St. Mathias on the last pier, Santiago and St. Andrew (signed and dated 1577), SS. Simon and Judas, SS. Bar- tholomew and Thomas, etc., all very fine, richly-coloured Titian -like, and po^^■erfully rendered. The others are by Zuccharo, Gomez, and Sanchez Coello, who painted the following : — SS. Paula and Monica, SS. Catherine and Ines, SS. Ambrosio and Gregorio, SS. Basilio and Atanasio, Geronimo an 1 Augustia, the former as a cardinal and the latter as a bishop, looking at- tentively at a child who is filling a hole in the sands with water issuing from a shell (signed and dated 1580) ; SS. Paul and Anthony in the Wilderness fed by a crow (signed and dated 1582) ; SS. Lorenzo and Esteban, and dressed as deacons (signed and dated 1580) ; St. Vincent and St. George, etc. Observe here the small chapel on the gospel side qf the high altar where lies the late Queen Mercedes. Also the gold cross presented by the British residents in Madrid. The pulpits, which replaced the portable one originally used, were the gift of Ferdinand VII. ; they are made of alabaster and the richest marbles, orna- mented with raezzo-relievo medallions, pillarets, etc., in gilt bronze. They are sadly out of keeping with the other sober, quiet, simple portions of the church, and are of no artistic value in themselves, though exhibiting glorious specimens of the Spanish marbles. I'he Organs. — There are two — one upon either side of the nave. Origin- ally the work of the Flemish builder Maese Gil, they are said to have been some time very good. Now, however, they are hopelessly out of repair — iu fact can no longer be used. Tlie vaulted roof, or boveda, was ori- ginally stuccoed white and dotted with blue stars. In the reign of Charles II. its compartments were painted alfresco by Giordano, happily surnamed Lucca Fa Presto, who is said to have finished all his work in the Escorial in seven months. There are eight compositions, representing subjects from Holy Writ and allegorical. The compositLn is good, the execution hurried, yet faith- ful, and the colouring very tine, though somewhat tarnished by damp. The High Chapel is 70 ft. wide by 50 ft. long, and comprises the high altar and oratorios. In the centre rises a flight of red-stained steps, steeper than was intended, but to afford space for a cupola under it for the pantheon, and that in this manner the wish of Philip might be accomplished, that mass should be daily said over the bodies of the kings. The altar is made of precious marbles and inlaid jasper, covered with a jasper stone of one whole piece. It stands isolated. At the sides are doors with jasper jambs, etc., and beautifully inlaid mahogany, which lead to the sagrario. On the back of the altar is ESCORIAL — CHURCH. 13:j the consecration stone of the churcli, which act was perfonncd by Clement VIII. 's nuncio. The retahlo is glorious, and the pictures deserve close inspec- tion, however difficult it be on account of the bad light and dark wood and jaspers. It is 93 ft. high and 94 ft. wide, of the four orders, and composed of red granite, precious jaspers, and gilt bronze. It is the masterpiece of the Milanese Giacomo Trezzo, who here em- ployed to perfection and great effect all the orders of classic architecture except the Tuscan. The tabemaculo was de- signed by Herrera and executed by Trezzo, who finished it in seven years. The pictures, of no great merit, are by T'ellegrino Tibaldi (subjects. Nativity, Adoration, Martyrdom of St. Lorenzo), and the rest by Zuccharo. The 'Scourg- ing' is the best work of Zuccharo's at ihe Escorial, and not as dry, cold, and raw as his paintings always are. The statues are by Leon Leoui and his son Pompeio, 1588. The altar cost about £40,000. Sagrario. — There are .some indifferent frescoes by Tibaldi, and some very rich Spanish marbles and jaspers. The sag- rario constitutes the coulisses of the i-cligious spectacle on great festivals offered to devout and sensual piety; and here from behind these screens, walls, and curtains, the sacristancs, those able scene-shifters, prepare the lights, incen- sories, place and remove the vases, and alternately draw, diminish, or change the curtains and many-coloured veils, placed before the window and calculated to mitigate or graduate the light, ac- cording to the nature of the festival. The relicario is one of the richest in Spain : much of the valuable matter, gold vases, ornaments, precious stones, etc., were carried away by General Houssaye and his troops ; they took the flesh and left the bones. However, these constitute the real value, and are gold and caviare to the vulgar. Amongst other butin de guerre was a statue called La Matrona or La Mesina, given by the inhabitants of Messina to Philip III., weighing 220 lbs. silver, which held in her riglit hand a golden custodia weigh- ing 26 lbs. , besides a hea^y crown with rubies and other precious stones, and, moreover, forty-seven of the richest vases. There are now about 7421 relics, amongst which are ten whole bodies, 144 heads, 306 whole arms and legs, etc. See the fine Area del Monumcnto, which formerly possessed twent)--six invalu- able Greek cameos, one of the real bars of San Lorenzo's gridiron, the femur of this saint with portions of his flesh roasted and broiled (tostado y asado), and one of his feet with a bit of coal between the toes, etc. Oratorios and Entierros Realcs. — On each side of the altar are placed the ora- torios, low chambers or tribunes of dark marble for the use of royal persons when they come to hear mass. That on the left was used by Philiji II., and in a small and narrow room close to it he expired. Above, and about 12 ft. high, are placed the bronze gilt and painted effigies of the kings, all kneeling. On the right of the altar are five statues. Tiie first is that of Charles V., kneeling on a cushion, and close to him are, to the right, the Empress Isabella, mother of Philip II. ; behind, his daughter the Empress Llaria, and his sisters Eleonora and Maria. On the left of the altar are the statues of Philip II. ; on his right is his fourth wife, Anna, mother of Philip III.; behind, his third wife, Isabella; on the right of latter his first wife. Dona Maria of Portugal, mother of Don Carlos, and behind her is this prince, immortalised by Schiller, but who was, historically speaking, a poor imbecile much taken care of by his father. These statues are portraits, and very remark- able for the execution, likenesses, and 134 ESCORLA.L — CHURCH. details of embroidcrj' ; observe also the pluinage of the eagles, etc. They were all the work of Pompeio Leoni, who was paid for them about £15,000. The Latin inscriptions are by Arias Montano. Ante Sacristia. — Indifferent ceiling, finely painted by Graiiello and Fabricio. The pictures are mostly copies from the Italian schools — a Sibyl, the Prophet Isaiah, a Virgin and Child, etc. There are, however, one or two paintings worth looking at : — a San Juan Crisos- tomo, by the Toledan Carvajal ; a San Juan de Dios, sketch or duplicate by Giordano ; an Adoration by the same ; and a San Geronimo ascribed to Ribera. Belowthe pictures are some tables setting forth the manifold advantages, in the shape of indulgences, to be gained by visiting the church in an orthodox spirit. From this anteroom we pass into the Sacristia, a fine room 108 feet long and 32 feet wide. Note the arabesques of the frescoed ceiling, by Granello and Fabricio. Twenty -six of the finest paintings formerl)'' here were removed to the Picture Gallerj"^ of Lladrid, and some others have been put in the Salas Capitulares. The best of those remain- ing are the following : — 63. St. Francis of Assisi, by Do- menichino. El Greco. 64. St. Peter of Alcantara, by Zur- baran. 65. St. Francis of Assisi in the desert, by Zurbaran. 66. St. Paul, by Zurbaran. 71. A copy of Raphael's Trans- figuration. 70. St. Peter in Gaol, said to be a replica by Ribera. 77. The two St. Johns, ascribed to Grecco, are of his early style. 81. Jesus bearing the Cross, ascribed to Guido Reni. 83. St. Gerome, ascribed to Ribera. 85. Descent from the Cross, by Vero- Q«se. 80. A Mystical Subject, by Tinto retto. 88. Crucifixion, by Titian. 89. i\Iystical Subject, by Veronese. 90. St. Eugenio, Archbishop of To- ledo, by El Grecco. 92. San Onofre, by Ribera ; signed. 93. JIagdalen Penitent, Tintoretto. 98. St. John in the Desert, Titian. 101. Virgin and St. Joseph Watching tlie Child asleep, Veronese. 103. Burial of Christ, Ribera. The No. 84 is called La Santa Forma, placed at the S. end of the room. On the altar is kept the wafer which bled miraculously at Gorcum (Holland) in 1525, when it was trodden under foot by Zuinglian partisans. It was taken up, and after being some time at Prague and Vienna, was sent to Philip 1 1, by the Emperor Rudolph II. in 1592. The large painting was first sketched byRizzi, and at his death taken up and modified by Claudio Coello, who, after seven years' labour, made it his masterpiece. The sub- ject is the procession and ceremony which took place in this very sacristia in the presence of Charles II. All the heads are portraits ; the prior's, holding the ciistodia, is Santos, one of the earliest and best historians of the Eseorial. Behind Charles are the Duke of Me- dinaceli, his prime minister, the Duke of Pastrana, etc. It is a very fine pic- ture, full of expressive vigour, excel- lent perspective, and forms a page of history worth volumes. It has been touched up in 1840, and well copied by Lopez for the Madrid Picture Gallery (No. 773). There are some fine tcrnoa and other church stuffs, beautifully em- broidered, and exhibiting pictures from Holy Writ embroidered in silk. Spain was always celebrated for this kind of embroidery, and the bordaderas en oro of this day continue the good tradi- tions of that art, which originated in Ciudad Rodrigo. Many of the veat- ESCORIAL — CHURCH. 135 monts, etc., in the Escorial were em- broidered after designs by Elmiido, Tibaldi, etc. There is one valued by Siguenza at £45,000. The Camarin was erected in 1692 by Olmo and Eici, or Rizzi. There is a glorious collection here of precious marbles, unrivalled anywhere else. There is a custodia containing above 10,000 precious stones, and which cost £5000 ; it is a present of Queen Isa- bella and the King Consort, made to the monastery in 1856. In the Capiiidario is a fine old folio, written by the monk ilartin de Pa- lencia, and containing eighteen fine miniatures by Andres de Leon, Sala- xax, and other great miniaturists of the rime. The Choir. — Visit first the ante-coros placed on the sides of the choir. The statue of San Lorenzo is an indifferent Roman statue sent from Rome, and accommodi to represent the Christian hero ; the four lunetos or di\-isions are painted by Giordano. In the other ante-coro is a St. Peter and St. jVndrew, by El Mudo, and fresco ceilings, also by Giordano. Close to this the Libre- ria del Coro, where are kept the colos- sal choral books, some of them being two yards wide ; each leaf was made out of the skiu of a calf. The Psalms of JIaitines are by Cristobal Ramirez and others. The style of letter or writing is that called peones by the Span- ish monkish caligraphers, all very able hands, and the books date from the foundation of the Escorial. They were magnificently illuminated by Andres de Leon and his pupils, Julian de Fu- ente-el-Saz and Ambrosio de Salazar. See especially, and as specimens, the three Pasionarios and Oficio of the Apostle Santiago by Fuente-el-Saz, and the Beginning of the Mass on the Day of St. Simon and St. Judas, by Salazar. Though many are wanting, and others are torn, there are still fine specimens of monkish bookbinding by the Pa- rises and Pedro del Bosque. No. 128, A Christ Crucified, by Navarrete, of little value, and a curious diptych by Bosch, representing the Delights of this World and Punishment of the "Wicked. The choir is placed at the entrance of the church, and continues the central nave, and though 30 ft. above the pave- ment, is still low enough to allow spec- tators to follow the mass with ease. It is large and brightly lighted ; there are two series or rows of stalls, both be- longing to the Corinthian order, and designed by Herrera himself, and made out of ebony, cedar, box, and other choice sorts of wood ; they are simple and unadorned, but very elegant and well carved, especially the prior's stall. To the S., and close to a small concealed door, is the stall which was used by Philip II. ; and here he was kneeling, absorbed in fervent prayer, when through that small door a messenger glided in bearing the news of the vic- tory of Lepanto ; but, as when he re- ceived the tidings of the destruction of the Armada, his countenance remained impassible, and he resumed his in- terrupted prayers. The lateral fres- coes by Romulus Cincinato, represent subjects from life of the tutelar and of St. Gerome, founder of the order, to whose care the monastery was entrusted by Philip, as they were in great fa- vour with him, and had been so also with Charles V. at Yuste. The < ther frescoes are by Luqueto ; the ceiling is also by him, and represents the Bliss of Heaven ; in a corner is the portrait of Father Villacastin, one of the Escorial architects, and behind it the painter introduced his own ; upon observing which, Siguenza said that he was glad to see that the artist (whose way of living was not very or- thodox) had placed himself in Paradise 136 ESCORT AL — CHURCH. beforeliaiid, for lie was inueli afraid tliat he was in so great a hurry to make money that tliis could never become a realit}'. The crystal chandelier, though much ill-treated by the French, is a fine specimen, made at Milan, and given by Charles 11. The facistol (lectern) is a present from Cliarles II. The eagle, with spread wings, forming it, carries in its beak the gridiron, emblematic of the tutelar's martyrdom. It is classical in style, but indifferent in execution. The gem of this choir is the beautiful Car- raia marble crucifix. It was made by Cellini, and is signed ' Benvenutus Ze- linus Civis Florentiuus faciebat, 1562.' The great Florentine carved it for his lord and master, the Duke of Tuscan)', who gave it to Philip II. The artist prized it much, and in his autobio- graphy he says: — 'Although I have made several marble statues, 1 shall only mention one, from its being of a kind most difficult for art to render- that is dead bodies ; I speak of the image of Our Lord Crucified, for which I studied a great deal, working upon it with the diligence and love that so precious a simulacre deserves, and also because I knew myself to be the first who ever executed crucifixes in marble.' Pantheon. — Descend a few steps, which are, as well as the walls, of precious marbles. On the second land- ing the door to right leads to the Pan- theon de las Infantas, and that on left to Pantheon de los Infantes. Philip II. built a plain vault, but Philip III. and Philip IV., who did not inherit the ideas of simplicity of their sire, built these theatrical show-rooms — this al- most ironical gilding of bones, and most pagan-like series of urns. There is the icy blast of death that chills one's very bones, sombre darkness, something oppressive and repulsive amid these shining marljles and gilf bronze ; nothing of the feelings that fill the soul and mind in the presence of the truly Christian, j'et regal and beautiful tombs in media?val cathedrals, with their sculptured efligies praying or asleep. This pantheon (the very name is pagan) was comjileted in 1654. Over the portal is the history of its erection, ' Locus sacer mortalibiis exuviis, ' etc. At the sides are Roman statues, alle- gorical. One is Nature, and the other represents Hope, with the words, ' Natura occidit,' ' Exaltat Spes.' The Pantheon itself is some 46 ft. diameter, and 38 ft. high. The cujiola is low, owing to its being placed just imder the steps leading to the high altar. It is of the Composite order, after designs by Marquis Crescenci. It is entirely made of marbles from Tortosa and Biscay, and jasper from Toledo, etc. The altar is also made of the same mate- rial, heightened here and there, as else- where too, by gilt bronze ornaments, and an indifferent basso-relievo, repre- senting the Burial of Christ, by two Hieronjnnite monks. All round the octagonal chamber are placed in rows, within niches, twenty- six marble urns, identically sized, and not unlike an anatomical collection. The kings are placed on the right of altar, and queens on left, and none save kings and mothers of kings are buried here, all according to etiquette and strict classification, worthy of any French bureau. There are wanting Philip V., Ferdinand VI., and their queens, who are buried at La Granja and Madrid. Upon one of the urns Maria Louisa, wife of Philip, wrote her own name with scissors. Reascending the Pan- theon steps, the corridor ojiposite leads to the new Pantheon de las Infantas, consisting of a scries of seven chambers, with white marble walls relieved with ESCORIAL CONVENT. 137 ooloured panels, and floors laid in black and white marble. The tombs are in white marble, with gold decorations, coats of amis, etc. In the first room are the tombs of the daughters of the house of Montpensier and of the ' Bonrbon ' Infantas ]\laria and Louisa ; the second and tliird rooms are empty as yet ; a circular tomb at the angle of the Pantheon contains the remains of a number of young children, and the Infantas are arranged in chronological order in the remaining three chambers. The Pantheon de las Infantas is very pure and cold, but not so impressive as the richer and gloomier Pantheon of the reigning monarchs. The Convent. — Enter fiom the ves- tibule of church into Sala do Secretes, so called, because even whispers may be heard from any angle, owing to the form of the ceiling. Claustro Pi-incijMl Bajo. — All of granite, except the marble pavement ; its style Doric. This lower cloister is a square of 212 ft. each side. The frescoes with the subjects from life of Christ are by Tibaldi, or after liis designs, but executed by other artists. The E. side is all by him, but none deserve attention, and they have, moreover, been wretchedly restored by Poler6, Marin, Argandolla, & Co. Patio de los Evangclistas. — 16G ft. each side of the square, and 60 ft. higli. Tliere are some indilferent statues of the Apostles, by Moncgro. The Sala de Caqiitidos, or Chapter- house. — Three rooms, an antechamber and the Salas Vicarial and Prioral. lu the antechamber are no paintings worthy of note, but in the other two rooms are collected some of the finest pictures yet left in the Escorial. Note especially : — In the Sala Vicarial, 68. Jacob watching Laban's Flocks, Ribcra. 72. Christ Washing the Apostles' Feet, Tintoretto. This picture wa.? painted for the Church of Santa Mar- cclla, at Venice, and belonged to Charles I. of England, at whose sale Philip IV.'s ambassador, Cardenas, purchased it for £250. 337. Tlie Satyr Mar.syas, Giordano. Very fine. 339. Nativity and Adoration, by Ri- bcra ; signed ' Giuseppe de Eibera, Espanol Valenciano, de la Ciudad de Jativa, Academico, Romano. F. 1640.' 341. The Sons of Jacob, by Velaz- quez ; painted by him at Rome, and during his first journey thither, and sent to Spain, together witli Vulcan's Forge (Mad. P. Gal., No. 195), and his own portrait for Pacheco. 343. Nativity, by Ribera ; 344, 347, 348,by Giordano. ThelatterTitianesque. 349. St. Gerome Penitent, by Ribera (signed). 476. The Martyrdom of Santiago, El Mudo ; in the background. Battle of Clavijo (signed and dated 1571). The executioner's face is a portrait of a blacksmith, a^mwano of the painter's. 478 and 479. An Annunciation and an Adoration of the Shepherds, Tin- toretto. Both painted for the high chapel, but found too large. 371. Crowning Christ with Thorns, by Bosch, either a copy or replica of that in gallery of Valencia. Sala Prioral. — Two or three Bassanos. 333. Ecce Homo, Tintoretto. 336. Noah Intoxicated, Giordano. 53. El Descendimiento, Vauder Weyden. 62. Gloria, Purgatorio e Infierno, ascribed to El Greco, and known as the Dream of Philip II. 396. An Entombment, Tintoretto. 442. Lot and his Family, ascribed to Vaccaro. 443. St. Peter, Giordano. 444. Christ at the Pharisee's house, by 138 ESCORT AL — CONVENT. Tintoretto, purchased at Cliaiies I.'s sale for £100. 446. The Lord's Supper, by Titian, formerly in the refectory (repainted). 448. Queen Esther, by Tintoretto, purchased at sale of Charles I. of Eng- land for £100. 453. Hades, by Bosch. A pendant in Mad. P. Gall., No. 460. 458. Flowers, by Mario dei Fiori (signed 1650). Iglcsia Vieja. — Used as a chapel until the completion of the larger actual church. On each side of the altar are an Ecce Homo and Adoration of Magi, by Titian, perhaps only a cojiy or replica of No. 484, in Mad. P. Gall., ill treated, if not altogether disfigured and spoilt, by restorers, and a copy of Titian's Burial of Christ, formerly here, and now at the Mad. P. Gall., No. 464. In the high altar is a large painting by Titian, representing San Lorenzo's Martyrdom — very fine, but ill restored, placed in a bad light, and the picture itself very sombre. It has been engraved by Cornelius Coort. The chapel is a spacious room, 109 feet long and 34 wide. It communi- cates also, directly, with the lesser cloisters. Of the paintings formerly placed here but few remain, and they of slight merit. They are as follows — all by Pantoja de la Cruz : — 468. Interment (effigy, etc.) of Charles V. 474. Interment of Philip II. 477. ^ 480. I Escutcheons of the Hoiise of 484. j Austria. 486. J The two interments are copies of those in the Capilla Mayor of the church. The escutcheons are a set of sketches intended for the same position — to be placed over each enterramiento. It was while he was at his devotions here, some authorities say, and not iu the Coro of the great church, that Philip the Second received the news of the victory at Lepanto. There is nothing of value to detain the visitor here, and we may pass on at once to the great staircase, or Escalera Principal, which leads from the court to the upper cloisters. It is magnificent, and the work of J. Baut. de Toledo, and J. Baut. Castillo, sur- namcd El Bergamasco, and father of the fresco-painters, the Granelli. The frescoes on the walls are by Luqueto and Tibaldi, of no merit, and scenes from the battle of San Quintin, by Giordano, and an allegory of the foun- dation of Escorial by Philip. All the figures are portraits. Claustro Principal Alto contains but few good pictures. No. 144. Christ Appearing to His Mother after the Re- surrection is ascribed to El ^ludo. The series from life of St. Lorenzo are by Carducci, and indifferent, and the scenes from History of St. Gerome, by Gomez. A fine St. Gerome Penitent (No. 174), by El Mudo, signed, and a once magnificent Nativity and Adora- tion of Shepherds, by same (No. 175), before which Siguenza says he often heard Tibaldi exclaim, 'Oh, gli belli pastori • ' 176. Sacrifice of Abraham, a copy of Andrea del Sarto's in Vienna P. Gall. (a replica in Mad. P. Gall., under No. 387). This original picture, of which the Madrid one is a replica, was sent to Francis I. of France, by A. del Sarto. The replica was, at Andrea's death, purchased by Marq. del Vasto, or Guast, whose portrait Titian painted. 187. Holy Family, by El Mudo, was a great favourite of Philip's. 188. The ScourgiTig of Christ, by the same ; the head of the Saviour, fine. 189. Descent from the Cross, by Veronese (?). Aula de Moral.— 1\\\3 Hall of Mo- ESCOKIAL — CONVENT. 139 rality was used by the monks to hold conferences on points of morality and theology, and solve casuistic contro- versies. Pictures. — 108. The Eesurrection of Christ, ascribed to Veronese. 111. Burial of San Lorenzo, by El Mudo ; used to be hung in his own rooms at the Escorial. 113. Descent from the Cross, signed by Veronese. 114. Charles V., an early copy from Titian's at Vienna. 116. John of Austria, copy by Car- renos. Camarin. — Little remains here of the former treasures, most of the best pictures having been removed to Mad- rid. There are some MS. by Santa Teresa, the works of St. Austin, written in the 8th century, and some relics. 905. A Crucifixion, ascribed to Titian, and 910, a Vitellum, painted and stuck on wood, ascribed to Holbein, Lucca of Holland, etc. (it w.is a present to Philip from Philibert of Savoy). There are, besides, several miniatures by Leon and Fuente-el-Saz. Celda Prioral Alta. — Some good mar- queterie ; the windows look on the gar- dens and fish-ponds. 29-3 is a copy by Carreiio of Sanchez Coello's very fine portrait of Father Jose de Siguenza, the learned and earlier historian of the Escorial ; the rest are copies. Close to this cloister is a room where Ferdinand VIL was confined, having been arrested for high treason. It contains a few pictiu'es : a copy of Kaphael's Trans- figuration by a Flemish painter ; an ex- cellent one of that great master's ' Perla,' by Santos. 221. A Virgin, by Carlo Dolce, etc. In the Cclda Prioral Baja is a por- trait of Charles V. by Pantoja, aged forty-seven, signed (No. 419). 420. Philip II., aged twenty -five, by Antonio Lloro (signed). 424. Portrait of JIariana of Austria, Philip II.'s wife, by Carrino. 426. Portrait of Charles II., aged fourteen, by the same, replica, copy, or original of Xo. 250. The rest of the convent is occupied by eight smaller cloisters, the apothe- cary's hall, kitchens, etc. — all on the same colossal scale. Library. — This portion of the edifice bears most completely and strongly marked the stamp of the founder's and architect's mind. As the Escorial was intended to be the largest convent, the noblest church, and, besides, the emporium of the fine arts, sciences, and letters of the age, there were seminaries and schools formed, and a magnificent library, collected with care and dili- gence, and containing at length invalu- able treasures of Arab art and science, Greek and Hebrew MSS., etc. The Biblioteca is placed above the porch of the Patio de los Reyes. It is 194 ft. long by 32 ft. wide (Spanish). The arched ceiling is painted by Tibaldi and Carducho with subjects personifying the sciences and arts. The composi- tions and allegories, etc., were the work of Siguenza. The bookcases ana shelves are made of ebony, cedar, orange, and other choice woods, and were de- signed by Herrer ; the pavement is of white and dark marbles. In the middle of this long and beautiful room, very well lighted uji, are five large marble and jasper tables, with smaller ones in porphjTy, for the use of readers, a pre- sent from Philip IV. There are several portraits here ; that of Charles V., aged forty-nine, is a fine copy of Titian's, by Pantoja. Opposite is that of Philip 1 1., aged seventy-one, ascribed by some to Pantoja, and by others to Moro ; Philip III., aged twenty-three, by Pantoja; and Charles II., aged fourteen, by Car- reno. There is, besides, a marble bust 140 ESCORIAL — CONVENT. of Cicero, said to liave been found at Htrculaueum ; a plaster bust of tlie great Spanish seaman Jorge Juan, and two bassi-relievi representing the two sides of the medal given by Philip II. to Herrera, and engraved by Giacomo Trezzo. A portrait of Herrera, one of Isabelle of Portugal, Charles V.'s wife, by Cranach (?), and of Fray Ceballos, who wrote ' False Philosophy is a State Crime,' etc., complete the catalogue here. The library itself, once one of the richest in Europe, has been sadly dimi- nished through neglect, invasion of the French, and thefts, but still amounts to some 56,000 vols. The basis of it was formed by Philip's private library, num- bering 4000 vols., of which the index or catalogue still exists, with notes in the king's hand. Most of the books are bound in black or dark purple leather. A year after they M^ere placed here (1 575), Philip's ambassador to Pome, Don Diego de IMendoza, died, bequeathing to his master his carefully collected library. The collection was consider- ably augmented by gifts, bequests, and additions made up with books from several Inquisitions, convents, and the Chapel Pioyal of Granada. Alfonso del Castillo was ordered by Philip to pur- chase every good Arab work he might fall upon. The catalogue of all the Arab works in the Escorial extant then, may be seen in Hottinger's ' Promptu- arium sive Bibliotheca Orien talis,' pub- lished at Heidelberg in 1668, in 4to. The original catalogue was classified by Arias Montano and Father Siguenza. In 1614 the valuable library of the Emperor of Morocco, Muley Zidan, amounting to 3000 volumes, was eon- ve3-ed here, having been found on board a ship that was captured near Sallee. Most of them were burnt in the fire which took place in 1091, lasted fifteen ''ays, and destroyed whole portions of the Escorial. Of the MSS. thus lorn no index was formed. In CUiarlcs lll.'s time the Maronite Casiri published an index of the Arab MSS. extant in his time — ' Bibliotheca Arabico-Hispana Escurialensis, ' folio, 2 vols. ; Madrid, 1760-70, but which is generally con- sidered inaccurate. The Greek MSS. were classified by Fray J. de Cuenca, ' Bibliotheca Gra^ca,' etc., 26 vols, folio. Strange to saj', Spanish libraries, that ought to possess the richest and largest collection of Arab MSS., are, through neglect, hatred to the Moor, and oppo- sition of the clergy, among the poorest in Europe, and there are petty German University libraries richer in this than the Escorial, where there are but some 1824 MSS. Amongst the books shown to visitors is the 'Codice Aureo,' con- taining the four Gospels in gold letters. It was begun under Conrad II., Emperoi of the AYest, and finished about the middle of the 11th centiuy ; the illu- minations are fine and curious. There is a fine Koran. Amongst the Greek MSS. there are many treastires that call for a patient Hellenist. There are very interesting ' Spanish Chronicles, ' a col- lection of councils of the 10th and 11th centuries, a work on chess, dice, and other games, written by order of Alfonso the Learned, and with many illumina- tions ; Seville, 1321. The 'Censo Gene- ral,' under Philip II., and a magnificent herbary, in 13 vols., time of Philip II., comprising American plants. There are also valuable collections of sketches, etchings, and engravings by Paphael, M. Angelo, A. Diirer, Titian, Breughel, etc. The Upper Library is not j)ublic, and contains prohibited books, missals, and the Arab MSS. Thcie is close to the library a reading- room, for the use of those who consult the MSS. and books. There is also u ' Catalogns prrecip. auctor. ineditor. MSS.' in the Escorial, by Bai'vaeti. etc ESCORIAL— PALACE. 141 A peiinissioii, siguwl by the intendeute lie la Real C^asa, at Madrid, and counter- signed by the bibliotccario, etc., is in- dispensable. As for tlie rest, patience and ordinary civility will lielp the student more than royal orders, intro- ductions, or catalogues. In tliis room there are some porti-aits of learned Span- iards, very indifferent, and one of Arias Montano, ascribed to Zurbaran. The Palace is placed in the angle tu N. and E. of the whole edifice. The principal staircase is by Villanireva, and was made for Charles IV., as the former one was not convenient. The rooms in the palace were origin- ally most plainly litted up, ' Philip wishing, he said, but for a cell in the palace lie had built to God.' They were subsequently altered, and the walls hung with very beautiful tapestry made at the Fabrica of Madrid after designs by Goya, Bayeu, Maella, and others, under the direction of Stuyck ; besides 161 made in Flanders from designs by David Teniers, and some twenty Gobe- lins and Italian. The subjects were m(jst happily chosen, and sucli as it is to be regretted were not oftener adopted by the great Spanish masters. Philip II.'s own room is indeed a cell, and here all is plainness. It was so placed tliat he might be close to the higli altar, and hear and see the mass from his bed when ill. There are but a few remains of the furniture dating of that time : a chair used by him when suffering from gout, a stool, said to be that on which Antonio Perez, hiswell-known secretary, used to sit, are all that now remain. But his mind is still to be seen every- where. Philip worked very hard, went to bed late, and the monks' chants awoke him every morning at four, when he heard mass, and so devoutly and 'ervently did lie pray that tears were often seen streaming down his cheeks, li'or two months previous to his death he endured excruciating pain with firm- ness and patience. On feeling his death approach, he was taken in a litljr all over the building of his creation, to see once more, and bid adieu for the last time to all those portions which were more es^iecially his favourites, and on Sunday the 13th September 1598, he expired during the usual morning service, with his eyes turned towards the high altar and the host, and gi'asp- ing in his hands the very crucifix which his father, Charles V. , held when lie died. Scda de las Batallas. — On the S. side of the palace, so called from frescoes on the walls painted by Granello and Fabricio, and representing important battles and sieges. One of these has for subject the battle of La Higueruela, where Juan II. defeated the floors, 1431. This fresco dates 1587, and was copied by order of Philip from a chiaro-oscuro canvass some 130 ft. long, found in a lumber-room in the Alcazar of Segovia. It is most important to artists on account of tlie costume, arms, and military disjwsition of troops in tliose times. The other frescoes rej)resent several battles and naval expeditions of Philip II. in Flanders, Terceira Islands, tlie Battle and Siege of St. Quintin, Lepanto, etc. ; all very curious and interesting. There are rooms richly ornamented witli inlaid wood and fine specimens of ironmonger's work in Spain ; see the locks and handles, with inlaid gold. The four rooms containing them date from Charles IV. 's time, and cost some £280,000. They are called 'piezas de maderas finas. ' Among other pictures scattered in different rooms, we may mention : — In the Cuarto de los Infantes, 1. A Virgin, by A. Cano ; and a small por- trait of Philip II. by Pantoja. 142 ESCORIAL — COMPAfJA. In the Despacho, Portrait of Charles 111., by Meugs ; a view of Venice, by Canaletto. In Sala de Corte, a half-length por- trait of Olivares, ascribed to Velas- quez. In the Queen's Oratory, a Virgin, by Juan de Juanes, besides several Mengs, Maellas, etc. CompaSa. — So caUed because it did acom2MHar in its way the rest of the edifice. It is an edifice placed on tlie "W". side, and communicating with tlie palace by a gallery. Here A\ere the mills, slaughter-houses, cloth-factory, and other offices and trades that fed and clothed the population inhabiting the convent, which was a town in itself. The N. and W. sides of the building front the village and mountains, and have a paved platform or terraces calkd lonja (lounge ?) On the N. side is also a fine lonja, with a subterraneous gallery, 180 ft. long and 10 ft. higli, made in 1770 by a monk called I'ou- tones, to avoid the winter hurricanes whilst crossing to or from the village. To the E. and W. are fine terraces overlooking hanging gardens and fish- ponds. The slopes aroimd and below are planted with elms said to have been brought from England by Philip 11. Visit especially the Herreria and Fres- neda, which are, or rather were once, thickly planted. The Escorial (that is the convent, palace, etc.) belongs to the queen's patrimony ; several monks have recently been allowed to return, but their number does not suffice to say the 17,538 masses for which money was left by the sovereigns of the House of Austria, etc., and Ferdinand VII. The view from the towers of the Escorial embraces extensive but melan- choly wastes, treeless, trackless, and al- most at our feet, that odd contrast (now daily losing its first force) of a railway and stations, Newcastle coal and iioil, and trains running thirty miles an hour, close to this monimient of bygone ages, in whose cold gi-anite bosom sleep the mighty representatives of the genius, power, grandeur, and backwardness, of their age. Since 1885 the buildings have passed into the hands of the Agustinos Calzados (Augustinians), who direct a colecjio in the N. W. ])ortion, wherein is given, in separate classes, a complete education to boj^s destined either for ecclesiastical or secular careers. Before we bid adieu to the Spaniards' eighth marvel of the world, we may be allowed to make some remarks suggested by its style. The Escorial is a very important work in the history of archi- tecture, as it constitutes one of the earliest and most jDerfect types of the Gra?co-Eoman school, the principles of M'hich the Spanish architects were taught to admire and cojiy from the ruins of antiquity and the modern edifices of Italy, at the period when the intercourse with that country became so frequent. Mr. Fergussou (' Histoi y of the Modern Styles of Archi- tecture, etc.,' London 1862) maintains that in this, as in most Spanish pseudo- classical edifices, the influence of Teu- tonic art is evident, as well as the ignorance of classical detail. ' The sombre but magnificent pile of the Escorial exhibits a series of solecisms which would have shocked the disciples of Vignola and Palladio ; but the whole design shows more of Gothic character than the masterpieces of Wren and Michael Angelo. This 'grandest and gloomiest failure of modern times, ' with its forcible outlines and massive group- ings, puts utterly to shame the miser- able monotony of the still more modem palace of Madrid. ' The first impression it usually produces is that of disap- pointment ; tlie last is often that of ennui, and delight to come out of the ESCORIAL — CASITA DEL PRINCIPE. 143 lamp, heavy, sombre necropolis of stoue once more into sunshine and air. This building, with its great height, and long, endless, horizontal, unbroken lines, destitute of mouldings, relief, movement, and variety, is an evident illustration of this fact — that the purely classical style, divested of the resources that the llevival ushered in, is as ill adapted to edifices of any gieat size as the Gothic to small ones. But the Escorial must be considered as a con- vent, and not a pile built for ostentation or eflect, as the inspu'ation of a great mind tainted with melancholy, of deep piety, which sought rather to ponder on the sombre, awful, retributive side of religion, than on the sunnier one of mercy, hope, bliss, and love. The man explains the edifice, and the edifice is the i)icture of the man. Those granite towers, resting on deep, massive foun- dations, rise boldly into the heaven — lofty, asi)iring, plain, like the prayei's his stern heart sent forth to God. Those spacious halls, without pictures or stonework to distract the eye, lighted up, and leading finally all to the church and the altar, are like the avenues of his mind. His instructions to Herrera, when entrusting him with the continuation of Bautista de Toledo's work, give an exact idea of the founder's intentions : ' Sencillez en la forma, severidad en el conjunto ; nobleza sin arrogancia, majestad sin os- tentacion ; y tened siempre presente que el edificio que vamos aconstruir para mayor gloria de Dios y de nuestra santa Fu Catolica ha de ser a un mismo tiempo un templo, uu claustro, y una tumba.' Fhilip's Chapel. — About l^ m. is the Silla del Rey, a seat formed by granite boulders, whence Philip used to watch the progress and effect of the rising edifice. Casita del Principe. — Built in 1772 for Charles IV. by Villarueva, and placed on the slope of the hill on which the convent rises. It is surrounded by gardens and shrubberies, neglected and weedy. It was intended for a toy or show-house, rather than for a residence, and containes a few curiosities. In the ante-room are some Giordauos and a Caracci ; the others have fine names, and many are certainly original daubs. There are some bits of good marble marquctrj', ivory-work worthy of Chi- nese patience, jaspers and gilding, clocks, faded silks, and furnitme of that Renaissance Tompeii and Hercu- laneum st^de so long the fashion with Napoleon and the Spanish Bourbons. The Casa del Infante is another house, but most indifferent, built for the Infante Don Gabriel. Books of Reference. — 1. 'Memorias sobre la Fundacion del Escorial y su Fabrica, ' by Fray Juan de San Geroni- mo (MS. in Library of Escorial, K. j. 7); also published in the valuable ' Colec- cion de Documentos ineditos para la Ilistoria de Espana,' vol. vii. The author was one of the first monks sent by Philip II. to found the mo- nastery. 2. ' Sumario y Breve Declaracion de los Disenos y Estampas de la Fab. de S. Lorenzo del Escorial, por Juan de Herrera ;' Madrid, 1589, 8vo ; most rare, and of great value, as being the handbook to Escorial by its architect. A copy in library of Duke of Osima, Madrid. 3. 'Descripcion de la Octava Mai-a- \-iUa de el Mundo,' etc., by Alfonso de Almela, dedicated to PhUip II. ; MS. fol. in Bibl. Nacl. (G. 194), dates 1594. 4. 'Descripcion Breve,' etc., with the additions to the edifice by Philip IV., by Father de los Santos ; Sladrid, Impta, Real, 1657, fol ; several edi- tions. 144 ESTREMADURA. 5. ' Descripcion, ' by Poiiz, in liis 'Viage de Espana,' vol. ii. 6. Quevedo's detailed 'Hista. del Real Monasterio, etc. ; Madrid, ilel lado, 1849. The author was librarian the Escorial in the Revista Contevipor of the Escorial, and therefore could dls- anat, 1888. pose of every documeut in it relating to the subject. It is superior to l{/)tondo and Romajo's works. 7. A series of articles on the 11 SS. of ESTREMADURA. G-eographical and Administrative Divisions, etc. — This out-of-the-way, dull, and most uninteresting region comprises now the provinces of Caceres and Badajoz. It derives its name from Extrema-Oria, the last and extreme conquest of Alfonso IX. (1228). The length is 162 m. from Sierra de Gata to Sierra Morena, and the breadth 123 m. from E. to W. , occupying a surface of some 1211 square leagues, with a population of — Caceres, 303,721 ; Ba- dajoz, 431,922: total, 735,643. The Sierra Morena separates it on the S. from Andalusia ; to the N. it is bounded by Leon and New Castile ; to the E. by the hills of Bejar and the Batuecas and Sierra de Francia ; and to W. by Portugal, from which it is sepa- rated by the Eljas, Tagiis, and Sierra de Gata. Badajoz is the residence of the Captain-General of Estremadura and Caceres, the see of the bishop and Au- diencia. It is mostly very fiat, and con- sists of boundless, trackless plains, with villages like happy days, ' few and far between,' and an indolent, simple, pas- toral, ignorant population, given ex- clusively to pasturing and rearing swine. The cities are very poor, and lack objects of interest to the tourist. The want of roads, wretched accommo- dation, and absence of subjects of in- terest to attract tom-ists, have made us write so brief a description of its towns. However, the very features of this country, its loneliness and silence, its unexplored natural history, may tempt some tourists of a peculiar class and disposition. We refer them, therefore, to Madrid, from Lisbon to Caceres. We must not forget to recommend most especially to antiquaries an ex- cursion to Merida, Alcantara, Coria, etc., which abound in very important Roman antiquities ; and Yuste will attract all admirers of Charles V., who lived and died in the monastery of this name (see Cdcercs). The spring and autumn must be selected as the best periods of the year for visiting this seldom-visited region of Spain. Routes. Madrid to Almaden, rail. Merida, r. Badajoz, r. Trujillo, dil. Caceres, rid. Alcantara, rid. Coria, rid. Plasencia, r. Talavera, r. Toledo, r. Madrid, r. The Estremenos are dull holgazanes to the backbone, unprogiessive, honest, and trustworthy. Their dress is dark and unpictm-esque. Books of Reference. — 1. ' Observaciones sobre las Antig. de Extrem., by the Marques de Valdeflores ; fol. MS. in the Academia de Historia, Madrid. Important to antiquaries. The ' Historias de Merida ' are being republished under the direction of D. Pedro Maria Piano, and other intelli- gent antiquaries of Estremadura. See also Foruer's Antigiiedades (MS.) ; the most important work on the sub- ject, according to Valdeflores and others. 145 GALICIA. Geographical and Administrative Divisions, Rivers, etc. — The fonuer Reino de Galicia now contains four large and thickly peopled provinces — viz. Coruna, capital La Coruna, popu- lation, 631,500 ; Pontevedra, capital Pontevedra, population 481,000 ; Orense, capital Orense, population 402,500 ; and Lugo, capital Lugo, popu- lation 473,000 : total, 1,988,000 souls. Coruiia is the residence of the cap- taiu-general, under whose military ju- risdiction the four proWnces are placed, and the seat of the Audiencia. It is bounded on the N. by the Bay of Bis- cay, E. by Asturias and New Castile, S. by Portugal, and W. by the Atlantic. Its extent is some 1032 square leagues; which, when we consider its population, is an evident proof that, compared with other provinces, Galicia is by far the most densely peopled of Spain. The principal rivers are : The Mino (Portu- guese Minho), which crosses the whole reino from N. to S., an extent of 80 kil. ; and the Tambre, flowing from E. to W., intersecting the coimtry, and, together with numberless tributaries, watering its valleys to excess. The country is hilly. The Sierras de Loba, Testeiro, Sierra de Porto, de St. Ma- met, Sena, etc., are lofty and woody, and the Pico Ancares and Pena Tre- viuca on the eastern boundary are covered with snow almost all the year. The lower valleys are warm and sunny, and several of them, especially about the Mino, most beautiful and wild. History. — That of Galicia is the least interesting in Spain ; indeed, there scarcely exist any annals : ' heureux les peuples qui n'ont pas d'histoire!' The reino was founded by the Suevi, 409 ; conquered by Leovigil, 585, and bythe Arabs in 713. It wis subsequently an- nexed to Leon, and also to Asturias, ana even became the appanage of Juan Garcia, the son of Ferdinand I. of Portugal. Placed between contending parties, their victim and their prey in turn, devoid of any great riches, living principally amid the mountain fast- nesses, where their poverty tempted none, and their fierceness kept most at bay, the Gallegos Avere never or Uttlc troubled by conquerors, scorned by the rest of the more civilised Span- iards, and lived imder the rule of pre- datory chiels. Santiago or Compos- tella, founded in the 9th century, when the body of St. James is said to have been miraculously discovered by Bp. Theodomir, became an important city, of world-wide repute, and frequented by pilgrims who flocked to the shrine of this saint. Galicia was declared an Audiencia territorial by Ferdinand and Isabella, and Santiago chosen for the re- sidence of the justicia mayor. This im- portant royal commissary governed the country in the name of the king. The seat of this authority was subsequently removed to Orense and to Coruna, till the radical organisation of the kingdom in 1835. Character of the People; Language, Dress, Customs. — The Gallegos are the Boeotians or Auvergnats of Spain ; they are a tall, muscular race, hardy, la- borious when their interest is at stake, but otherwise indolent and dirty. They are very honest, and may be depended upon. They supply all Spain with ser- vants, mozos de cordel, cabbies, flunkeys, {lacayos), mannitons, aguadores (water- carriers), and all ofhees of beasts of burden, and much exposed to kicks, puntaines, liveries, and other signs of servitude and degradation, which the proud Castellanos, independent Vascu- 146 G ALICIA. encps, and fiery Andaluces despise, and leave to tliis more humble race ; fonder also of lucre, of ' a,f,aiinaldos 'and savings, which after throe or four years' c.dlc (to them) in Madi-id, Seville, and other large cities, they carry hack to their damp, dirty mountain hovels and sechided val- leys, where they realise their constant dream to own land {fincarse), however small a patch, however unproductive the soil may be, and the borono (millet) bread, darker and harder than the snow-white golden -crusted ' pain de la servitude' of Castilian 'grandes.' Love of home, la tierra, sickens the emigrant Gallego a year or two after he has quitted it, even if he has reached the highest station in flunkeyism, when the fumes of his grandeur, the glitter of the gold-laced hat and coat, are dispelled from his eyes, which see now distinctly, and not without a tear, in the camera oscura of the heart, the little white choza under the old, well-known chest- nut, by the laughing rill on the green slopes ; and when the noise of the heavy coach-wheels and the hum of the corte are no longer loud enough to drown in his ear the discordant tune of the gaita, the rough deep soprano voice of his Marusina, the hollow barking of his perru, all calling to him, and sweet as music to his lonely heart. In the sum- mer, at harvest-time, flocks of sturdy Gallegos spread over the corn-teeming plains of Castile and northern Portugal, armed with a short hoz (sickle), like the Irish in England. The reaping once done for the indolent Castilian labourer, who wants arms only because he will not employ them, they return gladly to their free hiUs and homes. The women meanwhile have not been idle, and when the rueca (distaff) rests, the field is ploughed, maize and potatoes sown, etc. The Gallegos make good soldiers, brave, patient, and easily managed. The dark side of their character is formed by a suspiciou.s mood, jealousy and envy, love of gossip and meddling, avaiice and ingratitude. Their language, or rather patois, is a dialect of the Portuguese, and tlieir ludicrous pronounciution of the Spanish, not less than their proverbial naivcti, often cunningljr put on, has made them the laughing-stock of the more cidtos Sjianiards. They use the u for o, the i for e, etc., say sinuritu for senorito ; and one of tlieir war speeches, during the Peninsular war, began, ' Nusutrus dicia- mus a vusutrus, murrimus in il campu di gloria !' ' I have been treated as if 1 were but a Gallego,' says the proud Castilian ; and in Fray Genmdio's satirical newspaper on the constitution of Spain, published some years ago, the first article ran thus : ' All those who are born in Spain are Spaniards, and the Gallegos besides.' Theu- customs are plain, patriarchal ; they are given entirely to rearing fine cattle and cultivating their too-much- divided properties. Pilgrimages are still the fashion here and there, more as pretexts for jollification than devout excursions (though the natives are most pious and superstitous), and the Ro- merias are now but village fiestas, when the slow, giMve, antique muneu-a is performed, the couples dancing back to back to the tune of the bagpipes, when the heady wines of the country are absorbed in prodigious quantities, and those of each pueblo loudly proclaim its superiority over the others : ' Viva Briallus !' ' Nu, mas viva Amil !' ' Viva Catoira ! ' — discussions which usually end and are settled by the introduction of 'porros,' a sort of shilleUih, and other suchlike striking arguments ad homincni. The dress is sombre, and suited to the rainy, damp climate. The men wear short light-brown cloth jackets, knee- breeches of the same stuff, and polaiiias aALICIA. U7 01 cloth gfiiters, either of black or light browTi cloth, for which woollen stock- ingai c sometimes substituted in summer. A double-breasted waistcoat of the same colour and material, with a few rows of brass buttons, enlivens the monotonous costume ; wooden shoes, the French sabots, madreiias, are used by the peasants. The head-gear consists of a pointed cloth or velvet cap turned up at the sides, and very like those worn in the time of Louis XI. of France. The dress of the women are still plainer ; on working days they are clad in white or striped linen, thrown over their heads for mantillas, and dark sayas ; but their dress, as well as that of the men, is most picturesque and handsome, when worn by the wealthiest farmers on great holi- days, marriage-dances, etc. In some of the valleys goitre, I'O'Pcras or hucio, and its accompaniment, cretin- ism, are found. This awful and disgust- ing infirmity seems to be peculiar to every hilly country, Switzerland, Savoy, the PjTenees (French and Spanish), the Arifege, Andes, N. Navarre, N. Basque Provinces, Astiu-ias, and Galicia. The causes of goitre, which produces cretins — those bastardised, rachital beings, a degree lower in the scale of the human race, whom we alwaj^s fmd side by side with healthy, luxuriant, proud-soaring trees and vegetation — have never been ascertained. Those afflicted with this liypertrophy of the gland are known to inhabit flat and low districts, 40 ft. to 70 ft. only above the level of the sea (Elbceuf, Dax, S. of France), as well as the highest plateaux of hilly districts, in the ventilated, opened ilaurienne, Le Valais, and Lombardy ; among people who live well, and with comforts aroimd them ; and also in countries where snow never falls, such as parts of Africa, Sumatra, etc. In reply to those who have stated that they are exclusively met in countries where snow and glaciers abound, it has been urged that cases of goitre are totally unknown in the highest valleys of the Alps, Norway, Sweden, etc. Dr. Grange is of opinion that the soil of countries where goitre prevails is formed of magnesian rocks, or contains dolomite and sulphate of lime and magnesia. D. Moretin derives the malady from certain organic sub- stances found in some waters ; D. Chatiu ascribes it entirely to the absence ot iodine in the soil, waters, or air of dis- tricts where goitre is common, and iodine preparations invariably cure or mitigate the goitre by absorption ; yet bread, vegetables, and meat, all contain iodine, etc. In Galicia and Navarre, the cretins, who do not however abound, are looked upon with pitj' and disgust, but seldom succoured. The Gall egos have (p. 146) been incidentally compared with the Irish. As a matter of fact they are in great part Celts ; and their likeness to the Irish can be well seen in the works of E. Pardo Bazan and other novelists, also in their poetry and folk-lore. The land - tenures, too, are similar ; only the Gallegos had their land bills at the end of the 18th, instead of at the close of the 19th century. There has been a considerable revival of Gallegan literature during late years. Mineral SpHngs. — Although not so rich as Astmias, yet this province pos- sesses several mineral springs most abundant and efficient, which, were they properly managed, would be an import- ant source of prosperity to the province. The saline spring of Camoudes de Bro- gartn, the hot waters of Caldas de Reyes, Caldas de Cundes, Orense, Lugo, Cor- tegada, etc., are excellent. The princi- pal are, Arteijo, near Coruiia, very like those of Plombieres, St. Gervais (Savoy), Baden (Austria), etc., and the sulphu- reous spring of Carballa, near Coruiia ; 148 GALICIA. temperature, 24 to 34 centigrades. For details, see General Information. Agriculture, Mines, Trade, etc. —What little is produced is consumed on the spot, and trade, \vithout excess of production, and absence of wants and capital, must necessarily be an idle word. Yet the ports are secure, nume- rous, and admirably situated for com- merce. Vivero, Kivadeo, and Ferrol, on the Bay of Biscay, are sheltered and deep -bottomed. The Bay of Vigo is among the finest in the world ; Coruna is perfectly placed, of easy access ; Ca- marinas, one of the most secure in Spain ; and Cornubion, Noya, Muros, etc, are all excellent. The soil is rich and generally well cultivated, the products of the land varied ; thus, fine corn is reaped in the Vegas of Orense, ilon- terey, and the banks of the Ulla. Oranges, the citron, maize, and flax grow plentifully about Eedasdillo, Tuy, and Rosamonde. Hemp, flax, oats, chestnuts, abound near and about Mou- donedo, Lugo, and Betanzos. The olive is also met here and there, and the wines grown in the distiicts of Orense, Vigo, Amandi, Valdeorras, etc. , equal and would surpass those produced in Portugal, were more pains taken in the elahoracion. There are excellent pasture-lands about the UUa and hilly districts ; goats, sheep, and a small hardy breed of cows, are reared with skill, and sent in large quantities to the Spanish ports and Loudon. The mines, those at least that have been worked, are insignificant ; copper, iron, and tin, are nevertheless said to exist in vast proportions. There are no fabrics save a few crystal, petroleum and linen works at Coruna, Ferrol, Vivero and Tuy. The hills produce excellent ti m ber for shipping and building. The bacon is delicious, and the Bayona hams (near Vigo) are celebrated, and not to be con- founded with those of Fiench Bayonne. Those of Candelas are equally good. General Description. — Tlie cities are devoid of interest, if we except Sant- iago, the greatest pilgrimage centre in mediaeval times, and interesting for its churches, etc., Lugo and the unrivalled Bay of Vigo and sceneiy around. The botany is worthy of study, and possesses great variety, owing to the diS'erence of temperature. There is capital trout and salmon fishing, and wolves, boars, and caza menor are met with in the hills. The mountain scenery is Swiss-like, but tamer, and less varied in aspect. The climate is damp, rainy, and very cold in winter, when the mountain-passes and tracks are impracticable. The roads, few in number, are not well kept, and the mountaineers often prefer the beaten tracks {senderos), which are both softer to their own and their horses' feet, and considerably shorten distances. Excursionists will find great hospitality among the simple-hearted cheerful highlanders, and the sturdy, sure- footed, long - maned jacas gallegos (liacks) are excellent for expeditions in the hiUy districts. The best period for visiting Galicia is from the end of April to the middle of September. The routes we suggest are as follows, and have been chosen with a view to com- bine mountain scenery, fishing, and city sight-seeing : — Leon to Villafranca del Vierzo, r. Ponferrada, r. La Baneza, rid. Lago de Castaneda, rid. Monterey, dil. Orense, dil. Rivadavia, r. Tuy, r. Vigo, r. Pontevedra, diL Santiago, dil. Coruiia, dil. Ferrol, s., or r. and rid. Betanzos, r. Or, Lugo, r. Cangas de Tineo, rid. Montoiiedo, dil. Rivadeo, dil. Uviedo, dil. The Lago de Castaiieda, Puente San Domingo de Flores, the Upper and Lower Cabreras, etc., will gi'atify the lover of sceneiy. The trout-rivers are > — The Tubia, Ladia, between Ferrol and Mondonedo ; the Ulla and its tribu- taries, Furclos, Mera, etc. , between Lugo and Santiago ; the Mino, Tambre. The Sierra Candau aboiuids in wolves. U9 GERONA. See Barcelona— iJcmto. GIBRALTAR. English seaport and fortress; lat. every 10 days Agents at Gibraltar : Henderson and Co., Church Street. From Nno York. By the North 6' 30" N. ; long. 5° 21' 12" W, Green\rich. Population about 20,000. exclusive of the garrison. With the German Lloyd, weekly, in 8-9 days gan-ison, about 25,000. fare, §90; return, §175. Agents in Eoutes and Conveyances.— From Gibraltar, Onetti and Sons. London, 1151 m. By the i Description of Sea-Passage. — By tliis boats of the HaU line, mode of reaching Spain, a good deal weekly ; fare, £7 :7s., 1st cl. ; calling at of trouble and expense is avoided, and, Vigo or Lisbon and Cadii;. Agents in ifundertaken in fair weather, the voyage Gibraltar: J. Peacock and Co., Irish j is, on the whole, very pleasant. Two To^^^l. Or, better, by the first-class , days after leaving the port we entei steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company ; Head Offices, 122 Leadenhall Street, E.G. Agents in Gibraltar : Smith, Imossi, and Co., Irish Town. Time, 4 days, subject to delays ; fares, 1st cl. £10 ; 2d cl., and passengers' servants, £6 ; returns, £16 and £10. Horses, £10 ; dogs, £2. Leave Gravesend every Thursday or Friday about 1 p.m. These steamers do not now touch at Vigo, but proceed direct to Gibraltar, where they remain for 6 to 12 hours, then leave for Malta, etc. Also by the Orient S. N. Co. (Anderson, Anderson and Co., 5 Fenchurch Avenue, E.G.), leaving Tilbury every alternate Friday, calling at Plymouth next day. Fares as above, by the P. and b. S. N. Co. Also by the steamers of Messrs. MacAndrews and Co., by the Spanish line of Senores ' Biscay's troubled waters. ' The first land made is the N. W. coast of Spain, Cape Finisterre, after Cape OrtegaL The coast of Portugal is now descried, and, wind and weather permitting, we pass within a few cable-lengths of Cape St. Vincent. A bold, rocky headland gives the Cape a ver}' picturesque ap- pearaucc, enhanced by the deep red colour contrasting with the green of the sea. A huge mass of rock, detached in front of the headland, adds to the tableau, the background of which is formed by the noble range of the Montchique mountains. A lighthouse with a rotary light rises on one side, and a romantic monaster}' on the cliff. Cape St. Vincent was the Pioman ' Mons Sacer,' a name which a neighbouring Portuguese hamlet (Sagres) has pre- served, which was reformed in 1416, by Prince Heniy of Portugal. The Arabs Saenz y Compania, and by many other called the convent Henisata-1-gorab, irregular sailings, for which see adver- tisements. From Liverpool. By the Cunard line, weekly ; fares, £7 and £5. Agents in Gibraltar : M. H. Bland and Co., Irish Town. Also by Burns and Maclver's the Church of the Crow, from the re- ligious tradition of some crows who watched the body of St. Vincent, who was put to death at Valencia in 304, but removed here during the Moorish This cape is particularly in- steamers (same agents) and the Moss teresting, in connection with the battle line. Agents : Smith, Imossi, and Co., fought Feb. 14, 1797, between the Irish Town. i Spanish fleet, under Don Jose Cordcva, From Glasgow. By the Anchor line, and Admirals Jervis and Nelson, in 150 GIBRAI.TAR. which fifteen small English defeated, after one day's hard fighting, twenty- seven large Spanish sliips, among which wa-s ' La Sta. Trinidad,' of 136 guns, four of the largest falling into Jervis's hands. The steamer rounds the cape and steers S. E. Cadiz ahd the low flat shores of Andalusia are left westward, and now we enter the Straits of Gibraltar. Pass off Cape Trafalgar ; in front project Tarifa and the yellow plains of tlie Salado, famous for the victory won by the Christians over the Infidel. A small block of white buildings and a lighthouse are all that attract the eye on land, but here is the precise site of the battle of Trafalgar, Oct. 21, 1805. Our readers are too well acquninted with the facts of this Waterloo of the Eeas, that we should venture to rec.-ill them to their minds. The Straits, the Arab ' Gate of the Narrow Passage ' (Bab-ez-zakak), ' el estrecho,' are about 12 leagues from Cape Spartel to Ceuta, and from this Cape of Trafalgar to Eurox)e Point, in Spain. The narrowest point is at Ta- rifa, about 12 m. A constant current sets in from the Atlantic at the rate ol 2^ m. per hour. Across to the right rise the low hills of Africa, Tangier being almost visible to the naked eye. Geo- logists, who in their conjectures go so far as to admit tlie possibility of America and Europe once forming one vast con- tinent, find it an easy matter to connect Europe with Africa by a supposed isth- mus, which must, they say, liave existed about this point. They prove this by the variations of soundings, by the Phte- nician tradition of a canal which was ctit between the two continents, and over which a bridge was built, the canal gradually widening ; and by urging that the geological composition of several rocks and headlands (that of Gibraltar included) on the Spanish portion, be- loEg exclusively to the N. African for mation, differing in this and other re- spects from tlie surrounding Spanish continent, etc. Now we soon run close in under Spanish land, Sura being seen away on the hill-top, and the fort and lighthouse of Tarifa (see Cadiz) closf to us. Gradually steering eastward, we enter into stiller waters ; and before us rises majestically, grand, all-mighty, bristling with cannon, the grey rock on which proudly waves the Union Jack of England. Algeciras is on our left, San Roque a little to the W., and the glorious range of Spanish hills in the distant background. Upon the right the long line of the African coast, charmingly diversified, reaches away as far as the shadowy Apes' Hill, which towers above where Ceuta lies, while the hitherto bare Spanish shores put on an unwonted beauty of shape and greenness. For boat fares at Gibraltar see p. 153. From Malaga.— By land, riartido of the Campamento, which cross, and proceed through the lines to Gibraltar. N.B.—A coast line of railway from Malaga to Gibraltar is projected. From Mala/ja and Cadiz. By the steamers of Messrs. John Hall and Co., weekly, in about 8 hrs. ; fares, 1st cl., £1 ; 2d cl., 12s. The French Com- pagnie Gen^rale Transatlantiqne, trad- ing between Marseilles, Malaga, Gib- raltar, Oran, and Tangier, form an ex- cellent method of travel for those who prefer the sea ; and these larger boats, even if they have to be waited for, are vastly better than small coasting vessels. For other less regular steam communications see announcements ujion the walls and in pajjers. From Granada, Cordola, Sevilla, etc. , by rail, via Bobadilla and Ronda. An English railway. Two trains per da\' and the bi-weekly " Sud - Express " (leaving Paris Mon. and Fri., Gare du Nord, 7.27 p.m., arriving at Gibraltar in 48 hours). Fair buffet at Ronda. Fares from Bobadilla to Algeciras : 1st cl., Pes. 22.55 ; 2d cl., Pes. 16.96 ; 3d cl., Pes. 10.25. Steamer fares from Algeciras, Pes. 1.40 and Pes. 1.00. TVith tlie North German Lloyd direct steamers to New York this Algeciras- Bohadilla line affords the best entrance to SiMinfrom the States. Between Gibraltar and Algeciras the boats run as follows : From Algeciras: 7.30 A.M., 10.50 A.M., 2.0 P.M., 4.30 P.M., 6.5 P.M., 9.45 P.M. From Gib- raltar: 5.40 A.M., 8.40 A.M., 10.50 A.M., 2.0 P.M., 3.0 P.M., 5.30 P.M., 6.40 P.M. Tickets on the piers. Hotels. — The Boy al Hotel, opposite the Exchange, old -established, dear, not very good. The Furopa, on the New Mole Parade, quiet and reasonable. CHART OF GIBRALTAR. Scale, I inch to the mile (English). Grand Hotel, and the Calpe and Cecil Hotel, both in Waterport Street, fair, but noisy. The Bristol, Cathedral Square, best situation. Bargaining everywhere necessary. Pension from 10s., wine exclusive. Miss Prescott's boarding-house, 2 Wheatley Terrace, for a lengthy stay, and several others, can be recommended. Pension from 8s. Regulations. — Strict regulations concerning foreigners and British sub- jects are observed here, and martial GIBRALTAR. 153 law rules on the rock. No fureiguer can reside without his consul or a house- holder becoming his security. Permits of residence are granted by the police- magistrate for ten, fifteen, and twenty days ; militarj- officers can introduce a stranger for thirty days. The gates are shut at sunset, immediately after the evening-gun has been fired. Hours of gun-fire (minimum time), when the gates are opened and closed. Opened in the morning, Jan., 6.15 to 6.10 J Feb., 6.10 to 5.40 ; March, 5.40 to 5; April, 5 to 4.15; Jlay, 4.15 to 3.45; June, 3.45 to 3.50; July, 3.50 to 4.10 ; Aug., 4.10 to 4.40 ; Sept., 4.40 to 5.5 ; Oct., 5.5 to 5.30 ; Nov., 5.30 to 6 ; Dec, 6 to 6.15. Eveninrj Gun. — Jan. , 5. 35 to 6 ; Feb., 0.5 to 6.30; March, 6.35 to 6.55; April, 7 to 7.20; May, 7.25 to 7.50; Tune, 7.55 to 8 ; July, 8 to 7.40 ; Aug., 7.35 to 7.5 ; Sept., 6.55 to 6.20 ; Oct., 6.10 to 5.40 ; Nov., 5.35 to 5.20 ; Dec, 5.20 to 5.35. The second evening gun is fiied at half-past 9 o'clock throughout the year. N.B. — These tables are most useful to those riding into the country, as the gates are afterwards shut for the night. Post and Tele^aph OflHce, Water- port Street, open 8-6 (Telegraph, 8-9) ; Sun. 10-11, 2-2.30, 5.30-6.30. All letters and packets must be pre- jiaid by Gibraltar postage stamps. Letters for England go in a sealed bag vid Madrid. The mail is despatched at 5.40 A.M., reaching London on the fourth day, Paris on the third day, and Madrid on the second day. A letter, therefore, posted in Gibraltar early on Monday morning is delivered in London on Thur.-sday night, or in the j)rovinces on Friday morning. Letters from London are despatched twice daily,butthe evening mail waits forthe early despatch of the following morn- ing, and both are delivered together in Gibraltar on the evening of the fourth day. Letters for the United States, West Indies, the States of South America, Canada, etc., are sent in the London closed bag, unless some other route ia si)ecially named on the envelope. Correspondence for Malta, Egypt, and the East, with Australia and New Zealand, is forwarded weekly. The postal rates are : — For Spain and Tangier, Id. for a letter not exceeding i oz. ; 2d. for 1 oz. Newspapers, ^d. for 2 oz. and every additional 2 oz. For countries within the Postal Union, 2id. for letters not exceeding \ oz. ; 5d. for 1 oz. Newspapers, ^d. for 2 oz. and for ever}- additional 2 oz. Telegraph.— Telegrams to England vid France or Bilbao (but route must be specified), 4 pesetas 50 cts. for 10 words ; 9 pesetas 40 cts. for 20 words, with a ground tax of 5 words. Carriages, Cabs, etc. — For fares by distance see tariff supplied. By time, Is. 6d. per hour for one or two jiersons, with 6d. for every additional half-hour ; each additional passenger to pay an extra 3d. per hour. Horses, 3 clols. per day. From hotel to port, Is. Boats, Tariff. ^. d. To New Mole, Ragged .Staff", or any part of Bay, and back . . . .26 To or from do. . . . . .16 For everj- passenger bej-ond two . .10 To steam tug's anchorage and back . i o To or from do. . . . . .06 For every passenger above two . .06 To Algeciras steamer and back, ptr passenger 06 To or from do., per passenger . .03 From Ragged Staff to any vessel in Ray and back 26 To or from do. . . . . .16 From Ragged Staff to P. and O. steamer or any vessel within New Mole . .16 One quarter of an hour's detention included in above rates, with 6d. for everj' additional quarter. Luggage not exceeding 56 lbs. free. Every additional 56 lbs. or fraction thereof sd. (50 c.). General Description. — This famous fortress (the Calpe of the ancients) is situated on the W. side of a lofty pro- montory or rock, which projects into the sea in a southerly direction, some 3 miles, being one-half to three quar- 154 GIBRALTAR. tt'i;i of a mile in width. The town lies on the western slopes of the rocky mountiiin, the highest portions of which (1430 ft.), though apparently naked, are, on closer survej', found to be clothed ^^'itll African vegetation. What, however, is most remarkable is, that this rock, outwardly so harmless in appearance, is all undermined and tunnelled with wonderful ingenuity and at enormous expense, and now and then, behind a palmito, or between two prickly pears, the yawning mouth of a cannon will just peep out, like a bull- dog at bay. Tlie E. and S. sides are very rugged, and almost perpendicular, and their being fortified is quite a display of defiance, as they are totally inaccessible. Its northern side, front- ing the naiTow isthmus wluch connects it witli Spain, is precipitous, and not less accessible ; yet perhaps the only one by which an army could begin the assault. The circumference is 7 miles, the length, N. to S., about 3. The W. side, facing tlie sea, is ap- parently the weakest, and the portion to right of Ragged Staff Stairs, and all about Jimiper's Battery, was certainly not as strongly fortified as the rest before the new works were begun, and here the English landed under Admiral Rooke. One of the extreme ends of the rock, facing the sea, is Europa Point, where a lightliouse and batteries have been erected ; the other, on the j opposite extremity, is called Punta de Espana. The neutral ground is the strip of land dividing the rock from the mainland, the portion belonging to England being all undermined ; it could also be instantly submerged. A little beyond is the Campo de Gibraltar, and the lines (lineas) where the Spanish sentry, the burnt-uj), black-eyed, thin, ill-fed, but picturesque child of the sun mounts lazily guard in front of the fair-haired, blue-eyed, and prosaic son of fog and rain. The precipi- tous sides of the grey limestone rock are verdant in spring and autumn, and the scattered orchards produce excellent fniit ; in summer they become tawny and bare. There is, at that season of the year, a want of circulation of air, wliich, added to the extreme heat, scorching Levanter, and absence oi trees, makes Gibraltar next to intoler- able. The rock, moreover, rising be- hind the town, reflects the heat, and cliecks the currents of air. The highest point of the rock is called the Signal, or El Ilacho. From it the panorama is unrivalled. The eye, from this eagle's eyrie, sweeps over two seas, two quarters of the world, and what four hundred years ago constituted five kingdoms — viz., Granada, Seville, etc. Beyond the straits looms the mysterious verdant (not arid) Africa, with its king- doms of Fez, Mequiuez, Morocco, and its ports of Tangier and C'euta — the Abyla of the Phoenicians. AVhen first seen from tlie sea, the gi'eat rock bursts suddenly into the blue air, a height of 1430 ft., rising, as it were, from under the waves, as the land about it is all fiat, low, and does not appear linked to it ; it rises like a mon- strous monolith, a fragment of some shattered world dropped here by chance, and not ill compared, by a foreign writer, to a gigantic gi'anite sphinx, whose shoulders, groins, and croup would lie towards Spain, with the long, broad, loose, flowing, and undulating outlines, like those of a lion asleep, and whose head, somewhat truncated, is turned towards Africa, as if with a dreamy and steadfast deep attention. Towards the AV., in the distance, we can descry the high summits of the arid Cuervo, the hills of Ojen and Sonorra ; to N. the range of the Sierra de Ronda ; and towards tlie E., following the wide outline of land formed by the Men GibraHar to Granada. (By San Rogue.) Leagues. San Roque to La Venta de la Loja . . J Venta de Aguadelquehizo (Longstables) . 1 Bocaleones i Ventorillo del Cagajon . . . . i barca de Cuenca i Venta de Mollano or Moyano ... 2 Bait horses. Barca de Cortes 2 Hermita de la Salud . . . . i Leagues Cueva del Gato i Ronda i Alora, a railway station of line, Malaga to Cordova, lies about 10 leagues from Ronda. — In one Jay, rising early. 11 Barranco Hondo Cuevas del Becerro . Venta del Ciego Venta de Teba Camplllos . Sleep either here or at the following, 8 to 9 hrs. Antequera 5 Archidona . • 2J Venta de Riofrio ... Gong) 2 Loja .1 Sleephere, and ne.xt day early to Granada. Venta del Pulgar ij Venta Nueva ... . . i Venta de Cacin . (short) 1 Lachar (long) 2J Santa Fe . . . . 2 Granada . . . . 2 26i The road crosses the Monte de Castillar and its cork-wood, at the end of which is the Paso de Boca Leones, the former focus of Andalusian baiididos, and the scene of their celebrated chief Jose Maria's exploits. The scenerj- now, as far as Ronda, is almost unrivalled, and travellers have to wind tlieir way along precipices, and across small rivers, which are passed on ferries (iarcas). Those going by Gaucin and Atajate sleep at the former, and get next day early to Ronda, between 2 and 3 p..m., starting at 6 to 6.30 A.M. Gattcin. — Inn : Posada In- glesa, clean and decent. There are some clean and quiet Casas de Pupilos on the Mercadillo, close to the bull-ring. The view from the ruined castle, the situation of the village, are well worthy of a visit when there is time to spare. By leaving Gibralur at 7 A.M. you can easily get in to Gaucin at 5 p.m. ; but the road avoiding Gaucin is far easier and more picturesque. By coming from Ronda to Gib- raltar, you may avoid two leagues' uninteresting road by striking ofiF to the left, close to the cork- wood. Bonda. — 23,000 inhab. Hotel Gibraltar; Hotel America, indifferent; prices from 8 pes. Fonda Rondeila. Casino and Bull-ring here. Good place for Andalusian costumes and for fruit. Capital of the Jerrania. Ronda is uniquely situated on a very high rock, 164 CmANADA — ROUTES. cleft in twain Dy volcanic action, and between whose precipitous sides or walls (lows the boiling Giiadiaro, which girts the city, &nd taKes here the name of Guadalvin, and divider. the new city (Ronda la Nucva) from the older (Rsnda la Vieja). The country round, on approaching this town, is quite charming. Valleys green and fresh. On the left, hills covered with the olive, the vine ; and on the right, well-cultivated fields, bursting with fecundity and studded with pretty flat-roofed Oriental white cottages glittering in the sun, and the Sierra itself rising before one, with it.s warm, deep rich tints, and effective grouping, and bold outlines greet the tourist. The market - place overhangs the Tajo, or Chasm, and should be visited, as e,\hibiting all the varieties of delicious fruit for which the neighbouring orchards of Ronda are far famed throughout Andalusia. Close by is the fine renaissance Casa de Mondragon (see vista into the Tajo, from balcony, fee 50 c.) with double courtyard, etc. The Alameda commands an unrivalled view of the mountains, crowned by the lofty Cristobal. The main curiosity and the lion of Ronda is the Chasm, or Tajo. The bridge thrown across was built in 1761, by Josd M. Aldeguela, and is 276 ft. (Spanish) above the waters of the river: the only arch it consists of is no ft. diameter or span, and is supported by two pillars 17 ft. deep. The view, looking down from the bridge, and that also looking up to this grand and wild cascade of liquid silvei from the lowest mill, are not to be equalled, and we do not even attempt to describe the effect, for it baffles pen and pencil. The other and older bridge is 120 ft. high. Visit, besides, the Dominican Convent ; a Moorish tower in Calle del Puente Viejo ; the Casa del Rey Moro, built 1042 by Al. Motadhcd : the ' Mina de Ronda,' which is a staircase of 400 steps, cut out in the rock by order of Ali Abu Melee, in 1342, who employed Christian slaves. The handsome bull-ring is built of stone. The bull- fights here are certainly the best in Spain for true cnnleiir locale, costumes, and aficionados, as the Ronda population is composed of hardy and bold mountaineers, bandidos retired from business, smugglers (that polite name for the former occupation or trade), and bull-fighting and horse- dealing are their passion and favourite occupation. There is a celebrated fair held every year (20th May), when the majeza, bull-fighters, the small swift horses, the ruddy-checked pretty women, are seen in all their force, bloom, and beauty. It is a capital time and place for acquisitions of manias, embroidered gaiters and garters, etc. Excursions, not very interesting, may be made to Cueva del Gato (two leagues N.W.), which is full of stalactical caverns, and to the ruins of Ronda la Vieja. Ronda is recom- mended to tourists in the S. of Spain, who may seek a cool summer residence. The new line from Bobadilla to Algeciras renders it easy of access to all, whether coming from Gibraltar or the north. Ne.xt day the mid-day halt had better be at Vento del Ciego. Leaving Teba on the right, which is only interesting as being the title worn by the Empress Eugenie, who is Countess of Teba in her own right, Campillos may be reached from 7 to 9 hrs. after leaving Ronda. Inns: La Corona, Jesus Nazareno, etc. Two leagues from this village is the Salina, or Salt Lake. Antequera.— Pop. 27,340. Inn: Posada de la Castaua. The Anticaria of the Romans, is placed on a height, and was a strong- hold of the Roman and the Moor. Of the ancient town — Antequera la Vieja — there are but very few vestiges, such as some vague traces of a theatre and a palace, removed in 1585 and embedded in the walls close to the Arco de los Gigantes. There is little to see here. Tourists who have time to spare may ascend to the castle, built by the Romans and considerably enlarged by the Moors, from whom the city was recovered by the Regent Fernando, hence called ' El Infante de Ante- quera,' in 1410. Visit here some Roman re- mains at the entrance ; the Barbican and Torre -macha are curious. The Colegiata ot Sta. Maria is indifierent, both outside and in- side. Here there is rail to Granada, two trains per day, in about 4 hrs. ; dil. to Malaga (9 leagues) by the Boca del Asno and Venta de Galvez, etc., and rail to Malaga viA Bobadilla junction, in about 5 hrs. The 'Cueva del Menzal' outside the town, as we continue our way to Granada, may be e,\amined by antiquarians. It is one of the few monuments found in Spain of the Celtic period or Druidical times. It is 70 ft. deep. It was, so to say, discovered and cleared away by a Malaga architect, Senor Mitjana, in 1842, who has written a description of it (8vo ; Malaga, 1847). A short way out, upon the Malaga road, is El Torcal, a fantastic group of stones resem- bling the Er.chanted City near Cucnca. For the rest of route to Granada, see Malaga to Granada. From Malaga by rail.— Two trains per day in about 8^ hrs. By the C6r- cloba line as far as Boba- dilla. (Fair bullet, half an hour's stay.) Change here GRANiUJA — ROUTES. 166 for Granada, i-id Autequera and Loja. See for Antoqucra, Gib. to Granada, p. 164. On leaving tliat city the lofty range of the Torcales hills is left on our right. The train passes close to an immense rock called, romantically, ' La Pena de los Enamorados ' — Lovers' Rock. Two lovers, it is said, a Moorish girl and a Spanish knight, being pur- sued by the former's father's attend- ants, iled for refuge hither, and next day threw themselves from the rock, clasped in each other's arms. Archi- dona, an ancient, but uninteresting town. All these places, and the towns between here and the coast — Alhama, Velez-Malaga, etc. ■ — sulfered greatly from the earthquakes of 1884-85. Loja.—Voj). 17,128. Fonda de los Angeles. The Eoman Lacivis, and Arab Lauxa, once very prosperous, and a favourite with the Moor, is a sadly de- cayed town. It is placed in a naiTOW valley formed by the Periquetes hills (a prolongation of the SieiTa de Honda) and the Hacho, -with the Genii waters running through it and below the city with a stupendous noise. The JLanza- nil, which rises close by, forms a fine cascade on joining the Genii. From the fertility attending on the abundance of waters, everything gi'ows here in abundance. Tiie mulberry thrives wou- derfull}', and the silk produced is fine. Not far from station of 7'ocon lies tlie histoiieal but otherwise unimportant city of Santa F6. This town was built by Queen Isabella, during the siege of Granada, in 1492, to shelter her army during the winter, and show the enemy how very firm she and the king were in their purpose to capture the town, the last Imlwark of the Moor. It was de- signed after the general outlines and plan of Briviesca (a WTctched small town of Castile, not far from Burgos), and Seville, Cordova, and other huge cities contributed with tlieir f'uiuls to the building of it, which was concluded in eighty days. Sta. Fe was the scene ol many important political acts, such aa signing the capitulation of Granada, etc. On arriving at Granada by this route, the first impression will be almost a disappointment. The Alhambra is seen rising on the left. Riding from Mala^ti, by Alhama; dis- tance, i8 leagues ; two days, sleep- ing at Alhama. Horses may be readily procured at Alameda : fares, 4or. a-day per horse, stabling in- cluded, and 4or. to guide, and about izr. to 2or. to second guide with the pack-horse (if the party be numerous). Useful guides and travelling servants may be obtained. Itinerary. Leagues Malaga to Velez-Malaga . . • si La Vinuela . . . . 2 Venta de Juan Alameda . ■ i Zafarraya ..... 2 Venta Cacin ... • 'J From latter to visit Baiios de Alhama 1 From Baths to town of Alhama . \ Ventas de Huelma .... 2 La i\lala (mineral baths and Salinas) i Gavia \ Almilla i Granada . . . . \ Two dils. leave Malaga daily for Velez- Malaga, and perform the jour- ney in 3^ hrs for 25r. Ladies and not over-strong horsemen will do well to take this convey- ance thus far ; arrive there early, see the town, and sleep ; have the horses waiting and fresh, with side-saddles, or side-chairs, and proceed thence to Alhama, where sleep. Next day ar- rive at Granada. The journey thus will be rendered less fatiguing, and the scenery is so beautiful that the one day more will be amply compensated. The inns are tolerably good, but travellers should attend to the provender. For riding all the way 5 hrs. are necessary to reach Velez-Malaga, where bre:ikfast and bait horses. Seven hours {fiz'. - There is a coach every other d.iy fron Alhama to Granada. GRANADA — ROUTES. 167 Moiril to Granada. — Daily coach. Not i to be recommended save for economy. Prefer- ' ably by riding; 73 kil., 13} | Spanish leagues. The portion of j (J^i^ road as far as Beznar has been re- 1 i^ paired. I Leasiues. Itifierary. Motril to Velez de Bcnadulla Izbol .... Beznar ... Talara Padul ... Granada . The journey may be performed in one long lay ; if not, sleep at Beznar. The road is interesting on account of the scenery. Dil. from Beznar to Granada and to Laiijaron ; berlina, 4or. ; int., 3or. ; to Granada in about 4 hrs. Motril. — 17,000 inhab. Inn : La Dorotea. In a valley close to the sea. The climate ot this valley is truly delicious, and is con- sidered as the most salubrious on the whole coast of Granada. In winter the thermometer never falls below 11° cent., and in summer rises very seldom above 24* to 25' cent. There is nothing to see at Motril, excepting a few ves- tiges of walls and an indifferent church. Close to the city is a small bay, El Puerto de Motril, but really called Calahonda. A small village so called is built around it, and inhabited by poor fishermen and sailors. The plains around Motril abound with oil, vines, sugar-cane, cotton, Indian corn, etc. There is a bridle road to Malaga by Almunecar and Velez- Malaga (distance, about 64 m. ). Velez de Benadulla. — 3100 inhab., close to Guadalfea, a Moorish town (Arabice, 'the Land of the Childem of Andalla'}. It is also called Velezillo. The castle is most effective. Close by is a mill, with some colossal olive trees planted by the Moors. The scene is most picturesque and romantic. Beznar is a wretched hamlet composed of crumbling houses ; the posada is said to be tolerable Here it is optional to take the road, either by Durcal and Padul or by the Pinos del Rey. The latter is a prettier road, but longer by 4 leagues. A Ihendin. — Close to this otherwise un- interesting hamlet, is one of the low hills which form the boundary on this side of the Vega de Granada, and is celebrated alike in hi.story and romance by the melancholy name of 'El ultimo 5Uspiro del Moro' (the last sigh of the Moor). It was hero that Boabdil halted after leaving Granada in the hands of the Catholic kings, and was seen weeping as he lock a farewell glance. His mother, thei. the haughty Aze- rhah, rebuking him, said, ' Weep not as a woman for the loss of a kingdom which you knew not how to defend like a man.' 'Allah, achbar 1' replied the fugitive monarch, 'God is great, but what mi.sfortunes were ever to be compared to mine?' He was really most appropriately suniamed ' El Zogoibi,' the ill- starred, for the lord of the golden Alhambra saw his children at Fez begging at the doors of mosques ! 6. From Murcia, by rail and coach. Eail open to Baza. Fine coach drive (9 A.M. to 5 P.M.) from Guadi.K to Granada. This route is long, but worth taking. 7. From Conlova by road (rail, see p. 161). A very interesting riding-tour may be made from Cor- dova to Granada. The route passes across wild romantic districts, mag- nificent mountain scenery, quite Alpine in character ; the climate delicious, and the soil teeming with fruit, wine, com, and the olive. The posadas are bad, and one must rough it. No important towns or historical sites of importance are passed ; but there are treasures for the botanist, mineralogist, and lovers of the picturesque. The journey can be performed in two days, if in summer : but dur- ing the winter three are necessary. Sleep at Baena, and, if in winter, at Alcala la Real, 22J leagues. N.B. — From Baena there is a short cut to Antequera, 12 leagues. (See description given below, and Malaga from Cordi/fa). Itinerary. Cordova to Sta. Crucita . Castro del Rio .... Baena (10 hrs.' ride — long, from the many hills). La Raplta Alcala la Real . Venta de Palancares Ventas de Puerto Lope Pinos Puente . Granada . Leagues. • 4 2i From Cordova to Castro del Rio the route is monotonous, but the cornfields will interest the English farmer ; not for their mode of culti\'a- tion, but for the produce, which in quality and quantity is perhaps unrivalled in !hc world. 1G8 GRANADA — ROUTES. The only river, which often meets the tourist, is the poor Guadahoz. Castro is the Castra Postumia of Caesar's 'Commentaries.' In the Town Hall is to be seen a ja.sper slab of the former Temple of Augustus. Baena. — 11,000 inhab. A wretched posada. The castle on the height was the property of Gon- zala de Cordova, 'el gran capitan,' as the Duke was 'el gran lor.' It is situated in the old town above. There are some funereal urns found in 1833, in a sepulchre said to have belonged to the Pompeya family. In the castle, which, with the paiaa'o, belongs to the Altamira family, Pedro el Cruel, having invited the Moorish Knig of Granada to a series of fetes, traitorously murdered him with all his followers. Muley- Eahadaei', another King of Granada, was con- fined here in 1483. In the vicinity grows a very pretty yellow orchis. The Marbella produces a tench called arriguela. Alcald la Real. — Seven hrs. hard riding are necessary to reach Alcala from Bacna, though the distance is short. Inns all bad ; the best is San A nton, on the Alameda. This Al-Kalat (the castle) was a strongly fortified city in the hands of the Moors, and was taken in 1340 by Alfonso XL, whence called Zrt ii?^a/ La MotUj el Farol, or beacon -tower, was erected by the Conde de Tendilla to guide the Christian prisoners who might escape from the Moors. A mountain defile to the left leads to Jaen. Close to lUora, which is left to the right, on a hill, the Sierra Nevada is first seen, and the Vega de Granada appears after passing the Venta del Puerto. It was on the bridge of Pinos that Columbus, having been discouraged in his offers of a new world, v.'as proceeding to England, when he was stopped by a messenger sent by Isabela, who entreated him to come back, adding that she would favour his scheme. To the right lies Soto de Roma, the estate granted by Spain to the Duke of Wellington, and to the left Sierra Elvira. Branch road from Baena to Granada by Antequera, 12 leagues, one day's ride. Itinerary Leagues. Cabra . . . . .3 Luccna . . . . .2 Benameji . . . . .3 Antequera .... 4 Cabra, 9000 inbab., is the iEgabrum, Greek Aizagros — ^from cabra months a wild goat or chamois. Its sierra is celebrated for the production of valuable medicinal plants, and some that will be new to the botanist ; also for its marbles, jasper, and alabaster. The I Sima Ccavcrn) into which the ' Don Quixotic' hero, Cabaltero del Bosque, leapt, is close by. It is about 140 yards long and was examined in 1841, when nothing was found but frogs. Sights. — The Plaza de Armas is worthy of a visit. The tower of Homenage was built in the 14th centurj'. In the Church de las Ascen- sion (formerly a mosque) are some curious pasos. Ask for the Virgcn de la Soljdad, by Juan de Mena, and a Saviour in silver. 1 he extinct crater of Los Hoyones and the Cueva de Jarcas will interest geologists. The fruit grown in the neighbouring orchards is deli- cious, and the wine from the Pago de Rio Frio is excellent. Lucena. — 17,000 inhab. This, the Roman Egltera, was granted with the former city by Alfonso XI. to his 'arnica.' The ogival church of San INIateo (1498), the house of the Medlna- celis, are worthy of notice. It is surrounded by fields and orchards teeming with fruit (taste the apricots), corn, etc., and sheltered from the N. wind by the beautiful Sierra of Araceli. Not far is Benameji, with a fine bridge built 1556 by the Mariscal Diego de Bernln Orense. The rest of the route is most uninteresting. 8. From Seville. — By rail vid Utrera, llarcliena, Osuna and Bobadilla ; tlie most direct route. One train per day in a little over 8 lirs. First -class passengers go through without change. Half an hour's stay at Bobadilla, where fair buffet. Or — if that portion of Andalucia has not yet beeu visited — by rail vid Cordoba and llontilla. {See C6rdoba.) Or, lastly, in the old-fash- ioned way, on horseback, in four days, across wild scenery and by poor roads. Fair stopping places en route, the road following the railway most of tlie way. Itinerary Leagues. Seville to Alcala de Guadaira . 2 Mairena 2 Marchena 5 Osuna 5 Pedrera . . . . .3 La Roda . . . . .2 Mollina 2 Antequera .... a Ventas de Archidona . . ? Loja 2 Lachar . . . .4 Santa Fe . . - . z Granada . . ■ . L 36 GRANADA ROUTES. 1G9 [If time allows, a visit to Ecija may be coiiVL-nioutl}' made in passing from Scvilla to Granada, either bj' road or rail. There is a branch line from Marchena, 44 kil., one train per day, both ways, in 1^ hrs. There is also an excellent road from Cannona. Lm : Parador de las Diligencias. Pop. 25,000. Tliis city was once the rival of Sevilla and Cordoba, but has long lost all importance. It is well built, however, and clean, with a couple of pretty alamedas, one or two interesting churches, and one of the finest bull- rings in Spain.] Description of Route. — Leave Seville by I'uerta de Carmona. Follow ihe aqueduct, Alcaldde Cuiidaira, also called de los Pana- deros, because all Seville provides itself with the bread made here ; 7000 inhab., on right bank of the Guadaira. It was rebuilt by the Almahade Moors. The towers of its castle are a very interesting specimen of Moorish military architecture. It was the land-key of Seville, and surrendered to St. Ferdinand on Sept. 21, 1246, when its Moorish garrison, composed of the King of Jean's troops, traitorously turned against their own race within the city. There is little to see, beyond the church of San Sebas- tian, for the sake of the pictures by Pacheco, Velasquez's fatherin-law ; that of Santiago pos- sesses a fino Purgatorio painted by the same, and tre convent of Sta. Clara contains a good retablo and si,\ small bassi relievi by Montanes. Alcala de Guadaira (in Arab, the castle of the river Aira), supplies Seville with bread, most delicious, wholesome, and well-baked, and with water, for which the hill has been perforated with tunnels some 2 leagues long. The works are Roman and Moorish ; the aqueduct called Canos de Carmona is carried on 400 arches. The valley of the Guadaira is pleasant, the climate soft and delicious, and so salubrious that convale.scents are often sent thither /«/■« tomar hs aires. A little to the N.E. of Alcala Is Gaundul, with its picturesque Moorish castle, Stmid palms and orange groves. We pass Ma irena, where the /eria takes place every yeai on April 25th, 26th, and 27th, when it is Lhe render\'ous of Chalanes (horse-dealers), gitanos, and majos ; the Carmona road is Icfi on the left, and ISIarcheiia is reached. Marchena was the seat of the powerful house of Arcos (better known to the Spanish readei as Ponce de Leon). There are still a few cubes and turrets, only remains of the former formid- able fortifications of the Moors. The palacio of the Dukes of Arcos is sadly neglected. Ob- serve its fine fajade of the 15th century, with its richly ornamented square portal, and its escutcheon with the two Herculeses and lion. There are some rooms with fine artesonado ceilings, a shady garden with fountains and ponds, etc. The Church of Sta. Maria, which is opposite, is Gothic ; it has three naves : the interior indifferent, and the boveda ill painted. The principal fagade and lateral one on the left of San Juan looks most Oriental with its azu- lejos, alminares, etc. The interior is divided into five naves ; the high altar dates of decline of Gothic, but Is most effective ; the pictures are of no merit. There is a fine custodia (1586) by Francisco Alfaro. The dress of the women is curious. Osuna. — 17,000 inhab. hins: Del Caballo Blanco and Del Rosario. The seat of one of the most noble houses in Europe, la casa dn Giron, of which the Duke of Osuna is the head. This, the Roman Gemlna Urbanorum, was taken from the Moors in 1240, and given by Philip II. to Don Pedro Tellez Giron, and It became the appanage of his family. The Col- legiate Church was built in 1534, by a Giron, who also founded (1549) the University. The former charming terra cotta relievos on Its W. facade were destroyed by Soult's soldiers, great iconoclasts In their way. In the retablo are four pictures of Ribera. See the patio del Sc- pulcro, berruguete-like, and a very fine Christ of Morales, retouched, in the sacristy. The Pantheon or burial-house of the Girones, some- what neglected. Flower amateurs will do well to look at the splendid carnation pinks here, called claveles. Roda. — A decent posada. The countrj- be- tween Pedrcra and Venta de Archidona was the scene of Jos^ Maria's fetes. The roads here are bad, but the scenery about Antequera, Archidona and Loja is very interesting. (See route from Gibraltar to Granada.) The Venta de Archidona, Cortijo de Cerezal, and Venta de Cobalea were Jos^ Maria's favourite haunts, and are far-famed in bandldo annals. Perfect security, ho»r ever, exists. N.B. — Railway opened from Seville to Alcala and Carmoiis 170 GRANADA. G II A X A D A. A Itilude. ARMS OF GRANADA. Cuy Arms, a Pomegranate, ' Granada' in Spanish, stalked and proper. —2445 ft. above the sea. Latitude. — 37° 52' N. Lat. 3° 46' W. long., Greenwich. Vojiulation. — 66,000 inhabitants. Hotels. — The JFaskingion Irving and the Side Siielos (same proprietor) upon the Alhanibra hill, half an hour's drive from the station (omnibus to meet all trains). Both are good ; but the "Washington Irving is the better house. English Church service in the spring and early summer. Good guides. Pension from 122pes. upwards. Here, as elsewhere, a bargain should be made in advance, to avoid mis- understandings. Registered luggage cleared by hotel porter at small extra charge. In the town are (1) the Hotel de la Alameda, well situated, close to the Alameda and Carrera de Genii ; good accommodation, fair cuisine, good exposure for winter ; small and large apartments ; prices from 8 pesetas up- wards. Fireplaces in most rooms. Fine views of the Sierra Nevada, and convenient for the town. Comfortable and reasonable, if economy be an object, for a short stay in Granada, and if the Alhambra hill be an objec- tion. (2) De la Victoria, in a square close to Carrera de Genii ; good ex- posure for summer, cold in winter. central situation. Charges same as in the previous. Lodgings ; Houses to hire. — Clean and comfortable rooms are to be had in the house of Manuel Carniona, 32 Alhambra. A large house and good garden. There are also several fair casas de hu^spedes in the town : prices from 6 pesetas. There are several fine large houses to let belonging to the nobility; but we advise our readers most strongly, if they should intend making any sojourn, to take a villa near the Alhambra. Villas here are called cdrmcncs {carmen, singular), from karm, Arabice a vineyard. The cicerones usually know of tho.se unoc- cupied, although it must be borne in mind that they are in the interest of the hotels. They are often let unfur- nished, but hiring furniture is cheap and easy ; besides, little is reqinred in such a climate as this. We can recom- mend a carmen called de Camara or de San Antonio, close to the Torres Ber- mejas, where several Englisli families have lived. The house is small but comfortable; there are portions orna- mented in the .stj'le of the Alhambra. It was here Lady Louisa Tenison re- PulilislieaV A.4 CBUdi.Lonaoii. GRANADA. 171 sided for a long time ; she mentions it in her 'Castile and Andaliicia,' and says : ' A more charming place than this for a summer residence it would be difficult to select ; and its vicinity to the Alhambra enabled us to enjoy the latter without the fatigue of as- cending to it from the town.' This carmen for sale only, not to be hired [1895]. Cafes. — El Colon ; El Suizo, the best ; Del Fasaje in the Zacatiu ; Del Callejon in the Calle de los Mesones. Bankers. — Hijos de Agrela, Calle de los Frailes ; Enrique Santos. Casino. — On the Carrera del Genii. Admission upon introduction by a member. Carriages stand at the Carrera and Plaza del Carmen — tariff, the coiu-se, 6r. ; to any part of town, 12r., except to Alhambra and Generalife, to which lOr. extra ; to Albaicin or Monte Santo 20r. ex. Curiosity Shops. — Several good ; Michaela's the best. Moorish scarfs and cloaks at Ribofs, 4 Calle de Zacatin. Theatres. — El Principal, Plaza de Campillo ; De Isabel la Catulica, Plaza de los Campos. Post Office. — Calle Mendez Nunez, 44. Mail comes in at night and is delivered on the Alhambra hill next morning. Five days' post to London. Telegraph Office. — Plaza de la Mariana, 9. English Vice-CoTisnl. — Charles E. S. Davenhill, Esq., Buena Vista de los Martires, Alhambra. General Description. — Granada, like Toledo, Burgos, Oviedo, and most Spanish towns, is now but a dull, un- social, depopulated and inert provin- cial capital. There is about it, not- withstanding its sun and sky, an air of stillness and decay, a mournful silence, BO peculiarly noticeable that the mind is filled with sad reveries, and almost led to sigh forth regret for the deixirtcd Goth or Moor, who left no heirs oi their greatness behind them. Indeed, tlie whole of Spain is now but a vast cemetery, wherein the ' disjecta membra' of the dead past lie buried in cities which are like so many tombs. Gra- nada is thus truly a living ruin, but as the widowed canital of the Moor full of interest. It carries us back from tho (iresent to the age of Ibn-1-Ahmar and of Yusuf, to the voluptuous magnifi- cence of their eastern jjalaces. This city stands on four hills, which are divided somewhat like a pome- granate, and rises to the height of 2245 ft. above the sea. It is situated at the extremity of a very extensive and beautiful plain (vega), and intersected by the rivers Darro (called by the Moors Hadaroh), the Koman ^'alora, and the Genii or Singilis of the ancients. The town extends in an amphitheatre from the river, clothing the gradual ascent of the hills, which are crowned by the Alhambra. The plain, dotted now and then with sparkling whitewashed villas like so many sails, stretches to the base of the distant mountains, composed of the majestic Sierra Xevada (the Xolair of the Arabs), which, with towering snowy heights and Alpine peaks, con- trast beautifully with the deep blue sky above and the rich green meadows be- neath. To use the metaphoric expres- sion of the Granadine Arab poets, these mountains may be compared to a mass of sparkling mother-of-pearl, a picture never to be forgotten. The N. portion of the city, which was built alter the conquest, is called Barrio de San Lazaro ; the principal street, Calle Real, leads to the Cartuja. Here were erected dwellings for the Moors, and barracks for troops to watch their movements. The Albaicin, so called from the fugitives from Baeza (when their city was taken by St. Ferdinand, 1227), is situated on a hill close to the fonner banio. It once coutaiaed about 172 GRANADA. 10,000inhabitants,and beautiful liouses and gardens. In the centre was a mag- nificent niosf^ue, of which there are still some vestiges in the courtyard close to the Church of San Salvador. The Moors carried a stream from the Al- facar to the very heights of this hill, and provided the houses with fountains and a supj)ly of water for the vines and gardens on the terraced slopes. It is now a ruinous localitj', inhabited by the poor. Another and very early por- tion constitutes the AIccKaba, a line of forti-esscs formerly called Kadima, or the New ; the castle of Hysn-Al-Rroman stood here, and there are some remains of the ancient walls at the Puerta Monaita. Ascend the height of San Christoval to obtain a good view of the walls and cubos that extend from the Puerta Monaita to the Plaza Larga. The district of Antcquerucla hangs over the Genii, and was so called because assigned to the Moors who fled from Antequera in 1410. The Chuira, or Mauror (Arabicfe, district of the water- carriers), was also close by it, and on the slopes of the hill crowned with the Alhambra. The new portion of the city lies at the base of the different hills. There is little or nothing Euro- pean about the old town, and the Eastern, Moro-Andelusian aspect of its houses guarded with rejas, the many- coloured awnings stretched in summer over the balconies, the patios with fountains and orange-trees are very characteristic. Many of the houses are gaudily painted outside, the effect of which is not generally displeasing ; the streets are rather lanes, are pur2)0sely narrow and winding, to keep out the arrowy sunbeams of June and July. The new portion has been awkwardly built with wide streets and birdcage- like hou.ses, with an infinity of windows. The princijial streets are, Zacatin, Car- rera del Daro, Reyes Catolicos. The Darro Hows under the Plaza Nucva, in- tersects the town, and joins the Coni? at the extremity of the Carrera and Accra de Genii. The climate is wholesome, the water delicious and slightly aperient, the markets well provided, especially with vegetables and exquisite fruit, and living is very cheap. The name may have been originally applied by the Wisigoths, who probably rebuilt and enlarged the primitive for- tress, Cazid-ini, vol. ii. ; Maccari, vol. i., both cited in Dozy's ' Recherches,' say — Garnathameans rommana (pomegranate in Arabic) in the Spanish tongue. Of the "Wisigothic period, the only im- portant remains are the consecration- slabs of some churches built by the Wisigoth, Gidula, between the years 594 and 607. They were found on the site now occupied by the Church of Sta. Maria de la Alhambra, and have been placed on its southern fa9ade. The churches mentioned on the slabs were situated in a portion of the city, pro- bably the earliest, called Nativola. Sights. — 1. The Alhambra, Gene- ralife, and Moorish remains. 2. Cathe- dral and Capilla de los Reyes. 3. Car- tuja, churches, hospitals, public and private edifices. 4. Zacatin, Alcaiceria, squares, gates, etc. Cathedral.—?! a.m. to 11 a m., and 3 P.M. to 4 P.M. To be shown it apply to the sacristan ; hours, 3 p.m. to 4 P.M. High mass, with organ and clianting, on Sundays, at 10 a.m. Capilla de los Reyes. — 9 A.M. to 11 A.M. and after 4 p.m. Apply to the sextou at the special sacristy of this church. Cartuja. — Closes late in the day. Apply to one of the sextons. Generalife. — Open all day. Apjdy to the Italian Vice-Consul, Casa de los Tiros, Calle Pavaneras. See Plan of the Alliamhra. The Alhambra. — Open from 9 to IHlhhdledlrs- V-iC-Bliicii. London. GRANADA — A LHAJIBRA. 173 12, and 2 to 4. If attendant be not desired, get ticket '^lara estudiar,' at house of conservator, near the Puerta del Vino : otherwise guide necessary. Situation. — The Alharabra is situated to the extreme X. of the town, and be- tween the Darro and Genii, which it livides, rises a long single ridge, called El Cerro ilel Sol, and also de Sta. Elina. At a point called La Silla del Jloro, which is close to Generalife, the Cerro slopes downwards, and after being cleft iu twain by a wooded ravine, is inter- sected by a long avenue of elm-trees. It then spreads out into two tablelands or extensive terraces, bordered by pre- cipitous ravines. On the western ter- race stands the Alhambra, its base washed by the Darro. The Torres Bermejas rise on the extreme point of the eastern esplanade, occupied, further- more, by the Campo de los Martires, the declivities of which, being less violent than those of the one opposite, fall gently towards the town, a part of which they become. These two terraces were foimerly girt by walls and towers, and connected with each other by winding, and, maybe, walled-in lanes. Within this fortified circuit stood the palaces and villas of the Kalifs of Gra- nada, as well as the principal fortresses ; and so numerous were the buildings clustering on these heights that it was called a city — Medinah alhamra. The magnificent palace of the Alijarcs, cele- brated for its gardens, was situated not far from Generalife, and close to a sum- mer villa, Daralharoca (Arabic^, the Bride's Mansion). Besides those and the Dar-Al-Wad, or Palace on the River, Chateau d'Eau, where there was an aviarj'— on which account it is called by Marmol ' Casa de las Gallinas ' — there were many other villas belonging to the sultans and their couit, all situated without the fortifications ; but the Hadhira, or Court of the Kalifs, within the walls and on the western plateau, constituted the Alliambra proper, oi what is still often called ' La C:isa Real' Historical Notice. — The name Alhara- bra is a very early one, anterior to the palace that we familiarly call so. As early as A. D. 864-5 it is mentioned in Ibn-1' Alabbar's biography of Suwar Ibn Hamdun (who commanded the Arabs against the besieging forces of ilulades and ilostarabes). In some verses copied by the same, which were composed by Said Ebn Chudi, and ad- dressed by him to Suwar, he praises the latter for ha\-ing erected the FmI Castle, Kal'at Al-hamra ; and during the siege already mentioned, the besiegers one day shot over the walls an arrow, to which was tied a paper with the fol- lowing verses, which were written by Abderrhaman Ibn Ahmed of Abla : — Deserted and roofless are the houses (of our enemies), swept by the whirlwinds of dust that the tempestuous winds raise up. Let them within the red castle hold their mischievous councils ; the dangers of war and woe surround them on every side. The sons of those that our lances transfixed on their tottering walls will also disappear, etc.* The author asserts that he was told this fact by one Obada, who in his turn had obtained the intelligence from an ej'e-^vitness. Tliis Kal'at Alhamra may be no other than the Torres Ber- mejas (Red Towers), which were pro- bably so called when they were used by the Jews as a fortress, rhe name being derived from the colour of the ferruginous tapia-work. In a.d. 1019- 20, Habus Ibn Makesen erected a Kas- sabah, or fortified enclosure — which this Arab word signifies — which stood on the W. side of the town, over the Puerta de Elvira, and was called Kidimah, or the 'old' to distinguish it from the • Ibn Hay>'an 'History of Mohamraedau Spain,' Bodleian Library, Hunt. No. 464. 174 GRANADA — ALHAilURA. Jedidali, or ' new ' one, built liy 15;ulis, his successor (1037-8 a.d.), and wliicli extended from the former to tl.e Darro. The Alcazaba, properly so called, formed l^art of the KassaL;\h erected by liiViis Ibn Ilabus, within which this king, liaving removed his court from Elvira to Granada, usuallj' resided with his wazirs and officers, and it subsequently continued to be the place of residence appointed to the governors of Granada. This Kassabih received in addition to its appellation of Al-hamra, the name of the Kal'at (now Torres Bermejas Fortress) which could be as justly applied to all the buildings within this Mediiiah, as the colour of the earth on and with which they were built, was eventually the same, owing to the pre- sence of oxide of iron. The founder of the Masrite dynasty, Ibn-1-Ahmar, enlarged considerably the former palace erected by Bkdis, within the Kassabah, and built a new portion, which he determined should suipass m magnificence the most celebrated edifices of the kind in Damascus, Fez, and Baghdad. The works began about 1248, and the palace was called Kasru- 1-luimra, which means the Sultan's Mansion (Kasr being a corruption of Kaiser, Caesar) or the palace of the Alhambra. Thus it is as erroneous to suppose that the name comes from this prince's (as it woidd then have been called Kasr-al-liamra) as it is that he was the origin of the Al-hamares ; in- deed no such tribe or clan ever existed. Ibn-1-Ahmar's son and successor, Mo- hammed II., continued his father's work, and repaired the fortifications of the Castle of Torres Bennejas ; according to Ibnu-I-Khattib, the royal historio- grapher of Granada, 'he added con- siderably to the building, and lavished his treasures upon the several artists he employed to decorate its gilded halls. ' Isma'iJ Ibn Faraj (1300) built the little mosque within the palace. Yusuf I, (Abu-1-hajaj), ob. 1354, whose revcnuea were so vast that he was reputed to owe his riches to the transmutation of metals, spent these on the building o.* man}' new suites of apartments in tht palace, find in repainting, gilding, and repairing of the older portions. Ac- cording to lbnu-1-Khattib, quoted by Sr. Gaj'angos, the gold was procured from the interior of Africa, and beaten into thin strips ; the expense of the new works and repairs exceeded, saj's the same author, the bounds of calcula- tion. After the surrender of Granada, the Catholic kings remained but a very short time at the Alhambra, which be- came tlie property of the crown, fomied an independant jurisdiction, and a separate parish. "When they left, they intiusted its custody to Don luigo Lopez de Mendoza, Count of Tendilla, who had been .appointed governor or alcaide on the verj' day of the surrender of the Jloors. Under Isabella and Ferdinand, the monks and soldiers who were left in and around the mosques and fortresses of the hated Moor, who had threatened their altars and disputed their castles for so many centuries, vented their spite and hatred upon the inoffensive stone and iron. The open- work was filled up with whitewash, the painting and gilding etfaced, the furni- tiire soiled, torn, removed, and never replaced. Charles V. rebuilt portions in the modern style of the period, and destroyed what was fortunately an unimportant part to make room for his intended and never finished palace. Philip V. Italianised the rooms, and completed the degradation by run- ning up partitions which blocked up whole rooms, gems of taste and patient ingenuity, and concealed the Tarkish and azulejos under such deep coats of whitewash that the pickaxe is necessary GRANADA — ALRAM CR A. 175 to remove it. It became subsequently an asylum for debtors and state prisoners ; the French in 1810-12 turned it into barracks and magazines for their troops. The magnificent Moorish mosque, Mesjid Aljami, that was built by Mohammed III. in the early part of the 1 4th century, was destroyed by the French. According to Ibnu-1-Khattib it was considered to have no rival in the world. The French blew up several towers, and if the whole Alhambra which they had mined was not blown up, it was not their merit, but due to the courage of a corporal of invalidos, who put out the fusees. Tlie gobemadores, before and after this period, until re- cently, speculated on the interest and curiosity that was daily awakening for the Alhambrii, and made their fortiines, selling what could be easily removed, and all went on fast to utter ruin. In 1842, by the care of the Progresista minister, Arguelles, a miserable sum was destined from the queen's privj' purse for repairs ; somewhat later the sum of ]0,000r. (£100) was assigned and ill paid. Things now, however, looked brighter ; and on her visit to Granada, which took place in 1862, the Queen Isabelle was so struck with her visit to the Alhambra that she de- termined to repair and restore it as much as possible to its former state, and enacted mea.sures calculated to realise that royal and generous resolu- tion. The repaii-s were entrusted to Sr. Don i Rafael Contreras, a native of Granada, I whose zeal and patriotic enthusiasm | towards the completion of this work can I only be compared with his perfect knowledge and acquaintance with | Mooiish art. Much has been already achieved, and in a manner highly creditable — the Patio de la Alberca (the scene of the fire in 1891) and Sala de Descanso and likewise several por- tions in the Hall of Comarcs or Ambas- sadors, Council HaU (del Tribunal), and Court of Lions. (Consult his ' E^tudio Descri]>tivo de los Monu- nientos Arabes de Granada Sevilla y Cordoba,' Madrid, 1883.) Since the death of Senor Contreras, however, in 1893, the work has been directed by his son, and there is a lamentable fall- ing otfin its quality. Style. — The general style of the Al- hambra belongs to the third period of Moorish architecture. It is want- ing in that unity of design, typical fonns, lofty inspiration, and breadth, for which the Mosque of Cordova and other edifices of that time are so remarkable. The early phase in Moorish art, of which the latter were the growth, arose with a peculiar state of civilisation, marked by an ascetic and stern spirit which shunned vain oinament, scorned frivolous effects, and sought rather vast proportions, simplicity, harmony, strength — true signs of power and genius. Now, at the time when the Alhambra was raised, the dissolution of the ^Moslem empire had already begun, and en- gendered a similar state of decadence among architects, and oblivion of the primary principles of their art. Thus whilst the edifices of Cordova were the work of an age of mosques and fort- resses (of conquest and imity of faith), the Alhambra must be looked upon as the salient example of an age of pa- laces, which was also one of religious indifference. The Berber and invading Arab built massively to root deeply, as it were, a new race, that settled by main force in the enemy's land, whilst the more refined Granadine, who had be- come the permanent possessor, sought rather to embellish and enjoy the dearly-won kingdom, peopling it \vith marble palaces, gardens, and groves. Exaggeration in the outlines of archer 176 GRANADA — A LllAMDKA. excess of ornamentation (that sure test of decadence in art), an i-xuberance of rclievi or surface-decorations, paltry proportions, generalisation and abuse of plaster arches and walls — such are the most characteristic defects which a hypercritical spirit may discover in the construction of the Alharabra. But granting all this, granting, too, the lack of originality and absence of monumental stonework, it will yet bo preferred by the generality of travellers to any otlier Moorish struc- ture in Spain, for it must be admitted that it stands unrivalled in the gorgeous splendour of its halls, and that no- where, nor at any time, has its decora- tive art been exceeded. This is shown in that taste, effeminate elegance, ex- quisite grace, wonderful variety of the patterns — all most cunningly executed. Happy and novel appliances of poetical concetti and Alcoranic passages to en- hance and form part of the ornamenta- tion ; airy lightness, veil-like trans- parency of filagree stucco, partitions coloured and gilt like the sides of . a Staniboul casket — such, with many others, are the main features of this the worthy palace of the voluptuous khalills of Granada, who held dominion over the sunny land which their poets defined ' a terrestrial paradise. ' De- scriptions of what it must have been once can only be found in the ' Arabian Nights,' though even in this respect, reality, no doubt, must have beggared their fantastical creations. Everything interests us in the Al- hambra, for besides the intrinsic value as a monument of this romantic pile, how many poetical legends of love and war, how many associations has it with stirring scenes of harem dramas, politi- cal intrigues, and bloody executions. Entrances. — The principal entrances into the Medinah Aliiambra were for- merly the Gate of the Law, of th Seven Stories of the Catholic Kingb of the Armoury, and Bab-'el-Ujar ; that of Los Coches and Puerta de Hicrro are modern. We shall proceed by the steep Calle de los Gomeres, which is terminated by the clnmsy, massive Puerta de las Granadas, so called from the pomegranab'S tiiat are placed over it, and are the canting arms of the city. This gate, an awk- ward monument of the Tuscan style, was built under the reign and by order of Charles V., when the avenues inside were laid out, and intended to lead up to his palace. It is on the site of the Moorish gate of Bib, or Bab-el-Ujar. At each extremity is a reclining figure, much disfigured, and intended to s)Tn- bolise Peace and Plenty. This once passed, we enter the jurisdiction of the Alhambra. Three avenues lie before us : the main one in the centre leads up to Generalife ; the narrow one, on the right, winds up to the Torres Ber- mejas, which rise high above in that direction. By a more precipitous ascent to the left, we will proceed at once to the principal entrance, the Gate of Judgment. N.B. — We advise tourists, and ladies especially, to go up in a carriage as far at least as this last-named point, as the ascent is steep and long, and one ar- rives to the top heated and fatigued, just when all the attention and activity are required. The grounds of the Alhambra are woody, and at spring-time full of sweet- scented wild flowers, which numerous rills of snow-water, gushing from the Sierra, keep up green and blossoming. Flocks of nightingales seek at that season the shade of the secluded bowers, and their joyous songs blend with the murmur of fountains and the buzz of myriads of insects. These so- called gardens, weedy and ravincd as GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 17? they be, are a most charming resort in the sultiy hours of spring and summer, and a place of untiring enjoyment. Pilar de Carlos V. (Quinto). — This historically interesting fountain is placed against the wall, close to the Gate of Justice. It was erected for the Emperor Charles V. by the then Al- caide of the Alhambra, Marquis of Mondejar. The style is the Grseco- Roman, or rather Tuscan, which was beginning to be adopted in Spain. The stone is from Sierra Elvira. The crowned heads of the genii are intended to represent the Darro, Genii, and Beiro which fertilise the vega. Observe the escutcheons of the house of Monde- jar, and the mezzo-relievo ornaments, the emperor's shield, marine genii, dol- phins, and the columns of Hercules. The wall against which it rests is 90 ft. long by 15 ft. high, and ornamented with Doric pillars. Between these are four medallions with mytliological sub- jects. It is a fine specimen of the berrueguete style, although the Escuzar stone being over-porous and sandy, the medallions cannot be seen to advantage. Juan de Mena was employed in some portions, but certainly the genii were not his work. It was comjjleted in 1624, and has been well repaired by the governor, Sr. Parejo. Puerta Judiciaria{Gak of Judgment). This is a plain, massive, and somewhat clumsy monument, which served as an outwork to the fortress and an arch or entrance-hall to the Alhambra, but was principally used as, and expressly built for, an open-air court of justice, held, as usual in the East, by the khalife or his kaid, whose duties as pontiff (Emyr- al-MoumenjTi, king and chief magis- trate, made it incumbent upon him to give audience to the humblest of his subjects, settle disputes, and dispense judgment personally. This patriarchal custom is still prevalent in most cities in the East, and was, with many others, received by the Arabs from the Hebrews ('Judges shalt thou make in aU thy gates,' Deut. xvi. 18 ; and also, 'Then he made a porch where he might judge, even the porch of judgment,' 1 Kings vii. 7. In the book of Job xxix. 7, 8, 9, the patriarchal magnate is re- presented as going forth to the ' gate, ' amidst the respectful silence of elders, princes, and nobles, (xxxii. 9, and Ruth iv. 2). Hence came the usage of 'la Sublime Porte' in speaking of the Government of Constantinople, being considered also places of public deliberation and halls to give audience to ambassadors. ('Early Travels'). Over the arch nins an inscription in African letters, which records its elevation by Abu-1-walid Yusuf, and the date, 1348. It is there called the ' Gate of the Law,' and ' a monument of eternal glory. ' It is one of the many buildings erected in the Alhambra by its great decorator, the Khalife Yusuf I., who was their architect himself. The tower is almost a perfect square, measuring about 47 ft. wide by 62 ft. high. The horseshoe arch is 28 ft. high to the hand which is engraven above it. The marble sculptured pil- lars on each side of the gate are termi- nated by capitals ornamented with scidpturing, and bearing the following inscription : — ' There is no God but Allah : Mo- hammed is the envoy (prophet) from Al-lah. There is no power or strength but in Al-lah.' The walls are built with limestone from Loja and Sierra Ehira in concrete or tapia-work. Over the outer horse- shoe arch is part of an arm, with out- stretched hand placed upwards, which, according to some writers, is considered tj'pical of the five principal tenets of the Mussulman's creed : 1. Belief in God and Mohammed. 2. To pray (and N 178 GRANADA — ALUASIBRA. aWutions). 3. To give alms. 4. To keep the fast of Ehaiuadan. 5. Pil- grimage to !Mekka and Medina. The Tiuraher of the coiumaudments corre- sponding -with that of the fingers, as we read in Deut. vi. 8, speaking of the commandments, ' And tliou shalt hind them for a sign upon thine hand, and they shall be as frontlets between thine ej'es. ' But it is more likely that the hand was placed on the entrance, as is now the custom (and we have often seen it so) on every door in Morocco, to avert the evil eye. Probably both thesemeanings must be understood to be combined in this symbol.* (See p. 123.) The small image of the Virgin in a niche over the arch is indifferent and of wood. Turning on the staii-case before the second doorway is the place where the khalife sat to give judgment. Here is a guardroom, and the soldiers j'ou see may have been some of the brave Sj^anish arm}', who but a few years ago defeated the descendants of the founders of these very walls round * This superstition was shared by every nation of the earth. Virgil, in his third iEneid, says : Vix ossibus haerent : Nescio quis teneros oculus mihi fascinat agnos. And there was also the superstition concerning knots made in a particular manner, and said to have been breathed upon b)' Jewish sorcerers. Mohammed himself was bewitched by a Jew, who held a thread over a well with eleven knots on it ; the mystery of which was revealed to him by the angel Gabriel, and which led to his writing the 113th and 114th Suras, called ' the preserving.' These were inscribed on amulets, and hung round the neck. The first acted as a talisman against evils to the body, and the se- cond preserved the soul from all danger. Similar hands in coral, sufficiently small to wear round the neck, are found in Naples ; and in Tangier, Tetouan, and other cities in Morocco, rings and ear-rings are sold with a golden or silver hand upon them. According to Pedraza, ' Hist, de Granada,' and Argote, ' Pascos,' vol. ii., the use of these and other suchlike amulets by the Moors was prohibited in 1526 by order of Charles V. and his mother, DoBn. Juaiia. which they now keep sentry, for in Spain the Moor seems destined never to die. Over the second arch is a key sculp- tured — another symbol of the power granted to the Prophet to open or shut the gates of lieaven. In one of the Suras it is distinctly said : ' Did not Al-lah give him the keys with the rank of doorkeeper, that he (the Propliet) should be entitled to usher in the elected ones ? — a statement whose ori- gin is evidently to be found in the Cliristian's New Testament. The key was also a sign of knowledge and of poAver, and was used as a badge by the Moors soon after they had invaded Spain, and occurs more than once over doors within the Alhambra. The cham- berlains of the kings of Spain wear a gold kej' on their coats, a mark of their office. The passages between the outer and inner gate are winding and tortu- ous, as appears in many otlier outworks of the same kind, either Arab or medi- aeval, and were so contrived to check the advancing foe in liis entrance, and augment the means of defence. The three inner arches were built with brick, and angular forms, and an cmi)ty space of about six j-ards was left from the turrets to the door, the latter made with an opening over it to facilitate throwing all sorts of projectiles. The words in the inscription, ' May God make this (the gate) a protecting bul- wark,' together with its massiveness and position, do not leave a doubt as to its being intended also as tlie key to a powerful line of defence. The door consists of two leaves, strengthened by ii-on plates, closed with peculiar locks, and fastened with transverse metal bars. Turning now sharply to the right, we pass an altar placed in the wall, will] an indifferent painting represent- ing the Virgin and Child. Although GR^VNADA — ALU^UIBRA. 179 asserted by some too credulous and most ignorant admirers to be the replica of the identical portrait of the Virgin ilary, painted by St. Luke, the mere fact of its being in oil colours is enough to contradict such a statement, without entering into the style, draperies, etc. On the wall to the right is an inscrip- tion, on a marble slab, which records tlje conquest of Granada, and appoint- ment of Count Tendilla as its governor (alcaide). Plaza de los Ahjibes {Place of the Cisterns). — The walled-iu plateau or terrace on which the Alhambra stands is the highest hill of the four on which Granada has been built, and commands the town and plain, from which it is divided by the Dano. It is 2430 feet long by 674 ft. in its widest part. The red wadls, 6ft. thick by 30 high, on an average, girdle the hiU on the E. side, linked and strengthened by buttresses and towers, many of which foi-med the detached residences of sultanas and great officers. If you stand on the pla- zuela which is in fr;>nt of the Church of San Nicolas, and from which the best view of the Alhambra is to be ob- tained, you will notice clearly the long lines of irregularly -built walls following the sinuosities of the ground, termi- nating on the left by the Tower de las Infantas, and followed up to the right by the Torre de la Cautiva, de los Picos, portions of the Tower of the To- cador, rising somewhat more than the rest, and hanging over the romantic ravine. Of the three separate portions, the first on the left is composed of the Torre de Comares and the palace ; at the e-xtreme right is the Alcazaba, or fortress, with its dismantled castle, and in the space between, the Plaza de los Algibes, on which the palace of Charles III. rises, extentling its square un- uroken lines a little to the left (see plan). The aspect of the exterior of those towers is severe, jilain, and of uniform structure, yet far from appealing mono- tonous. The effect is most picturesque, and the deep orange colouring contrasts happily with the emerald green slopes. The simplicity and absence of orna- mentation and windows were intended to guard off the three greatest enemies of the Moor — heat, the evil eye, and the enemy's projectile. This plaza is truly an epitome of the history of Spain, and evidence in stone of its changing dy- nasties, races, and creeds. The vestiges that remain of Illiberis mark the Ro- man period, as the Torres Bermejas and Puerta del Sol recall, though vaguely, the Carthaginian's rule. By the side of the Mussulman's eastern palace rises the Tuscan palace of the German Charles V.; the parish church of Sta. Maria is on the site of the former mosque, and close to the stiU standing Mihrab, now called Puerta del Vino. The crumbled walls of towers and devastation of the gardens are a memorial of Bonaparte's soldiers ; and the line of hovels, the residence of oily, vacant, ill-fed, and ill-paid em- pleados, together with the ruinous walls, never propped up, are but too plainly characteristic of Spanish ne- glect. The Plaza de los Algibes is so called from the cisterns or tanks which receive the watei-s of the Darro, and are about 125 ft. long by 25 ft. broad. They are deep, built with vaults and horse-shoe arches. A draw-well in the corner of the square is used to raise the water, which is can-ied by aguadores into the town, and is much esteemed for its freshness and purity. The plaza is about 225 ft. long by 187 ft. wide. To the left rises the fortress of the Al- hambra, the Kassabah, and to the right the Puerta del Vino, the palace of Charles V., and almost behind the Casa Keal, or palace of the Moors. 180 GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. We advise our readers to leave tlie Tuscan Palace and Alcazaba, for the end of tlieir visit, and proceed at once to the Alharabra, after a glance at the Puerta del Vino {Gate of the Wine). — So designated because there was here, probably, a storehouse for the 2}eUejos or skius of wine which Avere brought from Alcahi. Here, too, was the chief enti'ance of the town of the Alta Alham- bra, with the house of the Kadi, and minor palaces of the aristocratic haugers- on to the Court. This puerta is most massive and beautiful. Notice especi- ally the azulejos of the posterior arch. It was built by Mohammed V. The inscription over the arch begins : — ' I flee to God for protection from Satan, the pelted with stones.* In the name of God, the merciful and compassionate. May the blessing of God rest on our lord and master Mohammed, and upon his family and followers.' Then follow the 1st, 2d, and 3d verses of the 4Sth Sura of the Koran, and praises to the Sultan Abu, Abdil- lah, Al-gaui, Bil-lah (the contented with God), who erected this monument. IPalaxt of Ibe gil^ambra. — The palace proper, as will be seen at a glance, oc- cupied but a verj^ small corner of the great Alhambra enclosure. There were, besides, the Alcazaba, occupj-ing the whole of the western extremity, and the town of tlie Alta Alhambra, on the south and east, capable of containing some 20,000 souls. (It had a popula- tion of 6000 as late as the year 1625.) The palace— or rather palaces, for there were three of them (1) the older, mez- quita portion, on the west ; (2) the central Court of the Berkali and the * This expression, which often recurs in in- scriptions in the Alhambra, is found in the Koran. According to a tradition among the Moors, Abraham being often molested by the repeated temptations of the devil, was wont to take up stones and pelt the intruder, who then withdrew, struck, we suppose, with so weighty O arcHvienium ml . diaboiutn. rooms lying to the north of it ; (3) the Lion Court and all its dependencies — hung over the Darro, and the princi- pal entrance was by a zaguan lead- ing past the mosque into the Court of the Berkah. The present entrance is by a small, insignilicant door, placed at the S. W. corner of the Court of the Berkah, and which is reached through a narrow lane formed by the palace of Charles V. on the light, and the partly modern and partly Moorish house in- habited by the gobernador. Entering a small corridor, a staircase to the left leads up to the functionary's habita- cioncs, which have been repaired, but possess little interest. The archives of the Alhambra are kept here, as well as two slabs of white marble exquisitely sculptured ; they are erroneously called Masas — tables — and from the inscrip- tion were probably placed in the wall or over some arch in a mihrab or mosque. The other table has no inscription except the well-knoA\Ti ' Wa la ghaliba- illa- Allah,' 'There is no conqueror but God.' This corridor has been modernised, but bears traces here and there of the Moorish period. There are some elegant arches and exquisite niches, erroneously called babucheros (from babuche, slip- pers) by Echavarria and others, who assert that the slippers, which in the East are alwaj's left on entering a habi- tation, were placed inside. It is an im- memorial Eastern custom : * And he said : Draw not nigh hither ; put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standcstis holy ground.' (Exodus iii. 5. and Josh. v. 15, etc.) From their usual inscriptions, and being usually placed within the inner apartments, together with what we have seen so often in Morocco, there is no doubt that they wore used to hold porous al-carrazas, full of fresh water. GRANADA — Al.HAJIlillA. 181 and lights placed iu crystal cases or transparent porcelain. Now, turning to the right, we shall enter the Patio de la Bcrkdh, or de los Arra- ganes (Court of the Blessing, or of the Aft/rtles). — Although some authors have derived the Spanish designation alhcrca from al-heerkch, a tank, a pond, we think the derivation from hcrkah, the blessing, applies more accurately to this court, because it was used for ablutions by the royal family, and all others who were present at the zalah held in the private mosque of the pa- lace, which is close by. This patio is 140 ft. long by 74 ft. broad, of an ob- long form. In the centre is a large pond, set in the marble pavement, and now full of goldfish. Along the sides are edges of myrtles, carefully trimmed, and kept low, and the court hence has often been called ' de los Arrayanes ' (Arrabice, arr-ayan, myi-tle). There are galleries on the N. and S. sides ; that on the right as you go in (the S.) is 27 ft. high, and is supported by a marble colonnade ; over this gallery rises a second, fonning a sort of entresol, 8 ft. high to the ceiling. Underneath it, to the right, was one of the en- trances ; the door was imitilizada, as the Spaniards graphically express it, when Charles V.'s palace blocked up all that side. Over it are three eleg-aut windows with arches, and si.K miniature pillars ; the two large niches at the extremities are 3 ft. deep, and deli- cately ornamented with oval arches, resting on white Macael marble. The azulejo dado under these niches, as also the azulejos in the Patio de los Leones, has been carelessly removed, and, it is to be feared, lost. The eight pillars supporting the gallery, and close to the mosque, are of great lightness, and the ornamentation of the capitals varies in each. Arches, slender and pliant like palms, .spring from the capi- tals, and bi'ud most gracefully one towards another until they meet. At the base of each, which is divided into four sides, are medallions, with the words, ' Perpetual Salvation,' in Cufic characters. The ceiling of the galleries is plain, inlaid with wood carved into angular patterns, all of which used to be painted and gilt ; the external orna- mentation of the gallery is formed by a stucco tapestry, interwoven with flowers and leaves ; the walls are high, and were tolerably restored in 1842. Observe the six oval doors and agimez windows. The upper gallery was re- stored by Seuor Contreros, the father, we believe, of Don Eafael. The tank is a parallelogram, 124 ft. long, and 27 ft. wide, and 5 ft. deep ; at each extremity is a tazza of white marble, from which the water oozes rather than Hows into the reservoir. This court was built by Ibn-1-Ahmar, but richly decorated, painted, and gilt by Yusuf I. Like niost of the halls and courts in this palace, this one ha"^ been the scene of many a deadly deed of vengeance and jealousy. Jlohammed III., who had hastened to Granada on hearing the report of the presumed death of the usurper Nasr, was astonished, on alighting at the gate of the Alhambra, to find that Nasr had recovered from the apoplectic fit which had caused the report to be spread. Mohammed was instantly seized and confined in a dungeon, whence he was removed to this court, executed, and his body thrown into the pond, April 1311. From this court the imposing walls ol the Torre de Comares are seen rising over the roof and to the N. This tower and the colonnades are reflected in the crystal mirror of the water, and truly ' lend enchantment to the view. ' Optical eflects, produced by water, light and shade, and combined gradual elevation, with an almo.st insensibl<" 182 GlUXAbA — Al.Il A Al HRA. inequality in the floors of apartments, were often most happil}'' treated and rendered by Moorish architects. This must have been a fairy entrance into a palace, when it was sparkling all over with gilding and vi\'id colours. The shield of the Moorish kings of Granada recurs very often. It is a plain escut- cheon with a bend, once red, and the motto, ' There is xo conqueror but God.' This is the origin of the motto and shield. Ihn-1-Ahmar, who had been the vassal of Ferdinand, was present at the surrender of Seville, and contributed to the victory obtained by the Christians. On his way back to Granada, where he had determined to build the Al-hamrd, his subjects, who held him in gi'eat veneration, greeted him, Galib, the conqueror, to w'hich he replied, ' Wa la ghalib ilia Al-lah' — ' There is no conqueror but God.' According to another legend, on the eve of the battle of Alarcos, whiLdi proved fatal to the Christians, an angel appeared in the heavens, riding a spark- ling white horse, and waving in his hand a ilag which reached from pole to pole, and bore these same words. As modest a reply was made by the Black Prince, after the battle of Nagera, 'Thank me not, but rather praise God, for His, not mine, is the victory.' Ibn-1-Aiimar, on his being knighted by St. Ferdinand, adopted this motto (mo(e) on Ids coat-of-arms, which was heraldically a field, ore and Bend argent, with the above motto sable, but the bend and field varied at differ- ent periods. The real origin may be, that it wa.s the tahlil, or war-cry of the Prophet, and was inscribed on the standard of Yacub-al-Mansiir, at the battle of Alarcos. ^g" We do not follow strictly tlie course of the cicerone porter. Ante-Sa!n de Emhajadores {Ante- Gallery to the Hall of Amhtsmdors). — Sometimes called de la Barca (of the boat), from the figure of the room. This is a very elegant and well-pre- served specimen. The azidejos are fine. At each side of the enti-ance, which is very elaborate, is a small niche ; that on the right has a pretty poem, in all the Oriental gallantry. The roof is at present (1895) in course of restora- tion. It was shattered in 1590. In tlie angles there is charming stulac- tical work, with miniature pillars, Lilliputian cupolas, half- moons, and the words, 'Blessing,' 'Salvation,' 'God alone the Conqueror,' 'Glory be to our Lord Abu Ab-dillah.' On each side are recesses, 22 ft. high, 9^ ft. wide, and supported by small pillars, the capitals of which arc formed by escutcheons. Sala de Emhajculores [Hall of Am- hassctdors. — Is the largest in the Al- hambra, and occupies all the Tower of Comares. It is a square room, 37 ft. by 75 ft. high to the centre of the dome. This was the grand reception- room, and the throne of the sultan was placed opposite the entrance. Observe the azulejos, nearly 4 ft. high all round, the colours of which vary at intervals. Over this is a series of oval medallions with Cufic inscriptions interwoven with flowers and leaves ; there are nine win- dows, three on each fa9ade. The arte- sonado is very fine, and rests on a wooden cornice ; the ceiling, of alerce wood, is admirably diversified with inlaid work of distinct colours, espe- cially white, blue, and gold, made in the shape of circles, crowns, and stars, a sort of imitation of the vault of heaven. The recesses of the windows are .small cabinets in themselves, such is the thickness of the walls. The shutters and balconies were added by Charles V., and the view from them is splendid. From the one looking on the Darro, Ayeshah is said to have let down GRANADA ALIIA.AIBRA. 183 Boabilil in a basket, to save hira from her rival Zoraya'a relentless vengeance, antl Charles V., leaning ont of one, is said to have exclaimed, as he beheld the glorious panorama spread at his feet, ' Ill-fated the man who lost all this!' In the embrasures of the two north windows there may be studied the finest remnants of the old work in the whole palace — the best inlaid azulejos, the richest bits of blue, ver- milion and gold colouring, and the most delicate column caps. Over the arch of entrance, and between the ornaments, runs the inscription: — ' Glory be given to our lord, AbulIIachach. May ^, God help him in his en- terprise.' Androimdthe niche to the riglit the in- scription : — ' Praise to ihe only God. I will remove upon Yusuf the malefice of the evil eye,' with five sentences : — ' Say, I flee to the Lord of the rising sun, thanks (be given) to God,' etc. ' Praise be to God,' etc. The inscrip- tion round the one on the right is almost identical. This hall is also called Sala de Comarcs, because its peculiar workmanship resembled that at Couia- rech in Persia, and the artists employed came purposely from that country. The present roof was a sub- stitute for the original of wonderful stalactite work in stucco, but which fell down along with an arch made of mother-of-pearl, jasper, and porphyr}-. The ceilings of the window-recesses are plain, of inlaid wood, and badly re- stored. The balconies were added in 1632. Tlieir use was not known to the Moors. The floor was of beautiful alabaster, and it is said there was an alaba-ster fountain in the centre. At the end of 5th century there was a partial restoration of the gilding and painting. This magnificent hall, the work of Ibn- 1-Ahmar, is higher, more solid and grandiose than the rest, and of a diff'er- ent period in the style and epoch. The walls seem to be covered with an infinity of guipures placed over each other. ratio de losLconcs {Court of the Lions.) — This celebrated portion of the palace has been almost completely restored by Sr. Contreras and his successor, with COURT OF TKC LIONS. doubtful ability. Although possessing as characteristics the most exquisite elegance in all its parts, it has not the imposing, majestic, and elevated style of the Hall of Ambassadors, and is attri- buted to other architects. It was built in 1377 by Jlohammed, who, after being dethroned by Ismael, was a second time replaced on the throne with the aid of Don Pedro tlie Cruel, who murdered the 184 GRANADA — ALTIAJMIUIA. king, his former ally, at Tablaila, close to Seville. According to Ccan Bennu- doz, 'Ai-quit.,' vol. i., the architect was called Aben Concind. It is neverthe- less a perfect model of Lfoorish patio architecture. Observe those open-work circular galleries to keep off the sun ; the lightness in the columns, the sym- metry in the proportions, variety in the patterns, and filigree - worked walls through which the blue hea^'en is seen, filling the interstices with colour as if it were painted. The court is an hypajthral quadrilateral oblong of 126 feet (Spanish) long by 73 feet wide, and 224 feet high under the galleries. It is surrounded by a low gallery, which is sujiported on 124 white marble columns, not counting the four em- bedded in the inner walls. The width between the walls and the pillars in the galleries is 74 feet. The pillars here are irregularly placed ; alternate- ly isolated and in pairs. A pavilion projects into the court at each ex- tremity, most elaborately ornamented and made with filigree walls ; the domed roofs are very light and of that shape so poetically and justly called by those sons of the Ai-abs, the Spaniards, mcdias naranjas; they are sm-mounted by a spear \vith a flow- ing horsehaii", sunnounted by the cres- cent. There are three stalactite arches on each side, which have three columns at the angles and two single ones be- tween each cluster. The ornamentation of the inner walls has almost all disap- peared ; and the beautiful azulejos which formed the dado, some of the finest of the building, have diiai> peared, without, it is to be feared, any chance of their being replaced. Observe the effect of the tiles, coloured in different hues, and the painted and gilt shafts projecting, and called caTies. The cajiitals are of different patterns, and were coloured and gilt. The irregularity of the pillars was in- tended, and the result of study of effects. The fringe of the centre arch of the court is formed of the stalactite bricks placed radiating to the centre, supported by a charming bracket, which is a beau- tiful example of the constructive idea carried out in the decoration of the sur- face. The design of the ' lozenge ' in the arches is most judicious ; it is so arranged that by the repetition of a single tile, two or three patterns grow out of the combination. The capitals of the columns show various transitions in forms, but all gi'adual, and the con- structive idea is never lost sight of. Over the capitals is the Cufic inscrip- tion, ' God alone the Conqueror.' The ornament on the piers contains in centre the shield of the founder, surrounded by the word ' Grace.' The main lines of the pattern are admirably adapted for ginng height to the jjiers. The general form of the piers, arches, and columns, is most graceful ; the mere outline of the voids and solids is perfect. The side arches are stilted, and struck from two centres, j'et so slightly pointed that they are onl}' just sufficient to relieve them from the compressed ajipearance of a semicircular arch. The middle one is also from two centres. TIlc Fountain of Lions. — In the centre of the court is the celebrated Fountain or Tazza. It is a dodecagon basin 10^ ft. (Spanish) in diameter, and 2 ft. deep, from which springs a pedestal support- ing a second tazza 4 ft. in diameter and 1^ ft. deep. The fountain is usually held to be pure Moorish work, but we venture to think that originally there was only the lower tazza, which rests on the lions, and was at a convenient height for ablutions. The workmanship of the higher tazza is inferior, and the imitation of the old Arabic designs can be detected. The present marble pavement con- GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 185 ceals the lower portion of the dado, and is, therefore, now on a higher level than it was originall)'', even if it be the same ; arotind the lower tazza runs a poem in Tawil metre ; many of the verses were copied horn the poem writ- ten in praise of the founder of tliis court, llohammed V., by the Wazir Abu Abdil-lah ilohamed Ebn Yiisuf Ebn Zemrec, a disciple of the celebrated his- torian Ebnul Kathib. The fountain is a magnificent ala- baster basin. The tvvelve lions must be looked upon not in a sculptural way, but hcraldically, as emblems of strength, power, courage. The lion in the East was a sign of power, and was always used heraldically by the Egyptians, and rerj often in Spain. They are in white marble, barbecued, with their luanes cut like the scales of a giiffin. They were probably the work of Spanish prisonere or renegades. According to Marmol and other historians, the child- ren of Abu Hasen by Ayeshah were all beheaded over the fountain by order of their father (excepting the oldest, subsequently Boabdil). Sala dc los Abencerrages (Hall of the Ahenccrra/jes). — Derives its name from a legend, according to which Boabdil, the last king of Granada, in\-ited the chiefs of this illustrious line of the Beni-Serri, better known as the Aben- cerrages, to a banquet, and had them taken out one by one after the feast, through a small wicket, to the foun- tain of the Court of Lions, where they were beheaded ; a massacre which con- tributed to his ruin, as they were the main .sxipport of his kingdom, and had helped to place him on his throne. The wicket, wliich had beautiful folding doors, was removed in 1837, and partly destioyed by the then governor of Alliambra. The ding)' ferraginous spots on the marble i)iivement near the fountain are said by tlie cicerone to be stidns of blood. Others assert that they were murdered here, which would be an Irish way of killing them in this room, whilst they were beheaded in the Court of Lions. This legend has no other authority than a ' romance, ' ' His- toria de las GueiTas Civiles de Gra- nada.' That several of the Abencer- rages were treacherously murdered in either this or some other hall is certain, but it was by Abu Hasen's orders, and not Boabdil's ; the reason being that the Abencerrages had sided with Aye- shah, and the pretext that one of them had outraged his sister. (See Marmol, ' Rebellion de los lloriscos, ' lib. i. cap. 12; 'Hist, de Granada,' by Lafuente Alcantara, vol. iv. etc.) The orna- mentation was identical with that of the Hall of the Two Sisters ; it has under- gone many restorations. Enter by an ovid door, which leads into a very narrow anteroom with a small door at each side, communicating with inner lialls, and on the arch the usual inscrip- tion, ' There is no conqueror but God, ' and 'Blessing,' etc., 'Gloiy be to our lord Abu Abdil-lah.' There are but a few inscriptions here, and several are out of the poem of the Hall of the Two Sisters, which Lafuente Alcantara (' Inscripciones Arabes de Granada,* vol. i. p. 126) thinks must have been placed there when, in the 16th century, this hall was repaired ; it had given way after an explosion of a gunpowder ma- gazine situated close to San Francisco. \Vlien the restoration was directed by Alfonso Berrugucte, at the time several ornaments belonging to other parts of the palace were then recast, and placed without regard to their original desti- nation. Observe how exquisitely the arch form gradually grows out of the shaft of the column, the stidactite roof crowning this hall, and the penden- tives of the two arches leading into the hall and those over the alcoves. Tlie roo* 186 GRANADA — ALITAMBRA. is most exquisite — the blues, brown, red, and gold, are most effective ; the green at the sides is blue decayed. With the back to the wall, the view Dver tlie fountain through the three arches to the fountain in the Court of the Lions is strikingly beautiful. The ball a perfect square. Its cupola or dome is very lofty, half round and half conical ; at its base there are small trellised win- dows, behind which the women could hear music without being seen. Many of its azulejos are of Spanish workman- ship, made and designed by Antonio Tenorio, 1536 ('Archives of the Al- hanibra '). Salas del Tribunal (Council Hall of Justice). — On the eastern side of the Patio de los Leones is a long gallery, divided into alcoves, or divans, con- nected with each other and called del Tri- bunal, from the doubtful tradition that the khalif used to give audience here, or, more likely, treat of state affairs. In the centre one, observe the six fine stalactite arches rising from small columns. It was restored in 1841. Obsei've the medallions mixed with the rest of Arab patterns, liearing the badges of the Catholic king.?, the yoke and bundle of arrows, with the motto, ' Tanto monta.' Three arches lead into the hall of the Council Room, 15 feet high. The Council Room is 75 ft. long by 16 ft. wide, and the hall is divided into seven compartments, including the alcoves ; the three facing tlie doors or arches are square (38 ft. high to the dome), and the other four quadrilateral oblong (16 ft. long by 8 ft. wide). In the wall of the hall, op- posite to the entrance, there are three more that lead to as many other rooms. The ornamentation of these rooms is very minute, and more delicate and more profusely decorated and coloured tlian any other. The arch opening into the central saloon is perhaps un- equalled throughout the rest of the Alliambra ; the archivolt spandrils are very elaborately worked and splendid. The whole seems to have been the work of the Genii, raised in a night by tlie sounds of some mysterious soft music, and at the wand of a magician — so light, vapoury, spider's-web-like, gossa- mer work it is. After the conquest, the great mosque of the Alhambra was purified and con- verted into a cathedral ; but on the edi- fice threatening ruin Philip II. had the sacrament removed to this hall, where it was kept for thirty years until 1603, when the Church of Sta. Maria de la Alhambra was completed. The open camarines or recesses in the S. wall are interesting, aiul here much repairing has taken place In very good style by Sr. Contreras. The ceil- ing is oval. In the domes are some very curious paintings. The ceiling of the central recess or alcove is the best ; the background is gilt and studded with stars. At the extremity are two escutcheons and shields, red gi-ound traversed by a barre or. In the centre are painted ten Moors squatting on cushions, with long beards, their heads covered up in hoods, and the hand leaning on the al-fange, or double- edged Arabic sword. Much has been said and discussed about these paint- ings — who painted them ? when ? whom are they intended to represent ? who was the artist? Afarmol, 'Guerrade Granada,' book i. pt. 1, says that Bal- haxix (Mohammed II.) built the Alham- bra, and that the buildings were gi'eatly added to by ' diez sucesores su}'os, cuyos retratos se ven en ima sala ' ( ' ten of his successors, whose portraits may be seen in one of the halls '). Argote de Mollinas, ' Paseos,' vol. ii. p. 161, and several other writers who lived shortly after the conquest of Granada, confirm this point, and in the archives of the .Alhambra, even those relating to the GRANADA — ATJrAlMBRA, 187 15th century, this room i.s always styled ' el Cuarto Je los Rutratos ' (the Hall of the Portraits). According to the French writer Gachard, t^iere is no doubt that John Van Eyck went to the Alhambra about 1428, accompanying the embassy sent to Portugal by the Duke of Burgundy (whose valet he was), to solicit the hand of Isabella, the daughter of Joam I. of Portugal. (' Rathgeber, Aunalen,'p 36; Raczinski, ' Les Arts en Portugal,' pp. 195, 196.) Gachard says he went to the Alham- bra, and painted the Moorish kings. It might be some copy of this now lost picture made by some artist of the time, Maestro Ilogel (Roger of Bruges), a scholar of Van Eyck, or another. Mr. Owen Jones is in favour of their being Moorish work, from the purely Moorish ornaments introduced in the paintings, and the details in the con- struction of the domes. (Owen Jones, 'Plans, Elevations,' etc., folio ; London, 1S42, plates 46, 47, 48, and 50.) Mr. Ford ('Handbook,' p. 311) is of opinion that they were by some Christian rene- gade, and that the process employed was common to Byzantine painters. Viardot (' Les Mus6es d'Espagne ;' Paris, 1860, pp. 200-205) believes them to be posterior to the conquest of Granada. 'These paintings are of bright colours, but in flat tints, and were first drawn in outline in a brown colour. They are painted on skins of animals sewn to- gether, nailed to the wooden dome, a fine coat of gypsum forming the surface to receive the painting. The orna- ments on the gold ground are in re- lief.' (Owen Jones, 'Alhambra.') It may be that they were placed after the conquest, but certainly they were never the work of Moors. They have seldom departed from the precepts of the Koran, prohibiting the representation of living subjects, especially of man, and the few examples to the contrary that arc ascribed to them were most likely not their work, such as the sarcophagus found at the foot of the Torre de la Vela, the lions in the court, etc. The ceiling of the room on the left represents a field with a lake, in the centre of which is a fountain with two basins, with trees, woods, and birds, and two damsels gazing on the water. In the wood a boar- hunt is represented, and opposite a castle with turrets, out of which two ladies, followed by duenas, are seen isssuing, to receive the homage of two knights. In the ceiling to the right is represented a castle with towers, and from the high- est one a lady, with the unavoidable duena, is entreating two knights who are fighting to cease their sport. Oppo- site the castle stands a woman holding a couchant lion with a chain. Close to her is an enchanter who holds a lady in captivity, and a mailed knight or cham- pion coming to free her. In the extreme opposite of the ceiling there are two castles with ladies leaning out of the windows, apparently much distressed, and at the foot of the castle is another lady sitting on a cushion, and pointing to the cases in a chess-board. Not far are two knights, one wounding a deer and the second some wild beast. There are several dog.s, wild beasts, and fan- tastical birds. Besides, Moorish kings might have employed some Christian painter, as the Grand Signer did Gentilo Bellini, for they were not always at war with Christians. For ourselves we are of opinion that these paintings were the handiwork of Italian artists towards the end of the 14th century, and it is not difficult to piece the whole series into a consecutive representation. (See 'Sketches in Spain,' pp., 284, 285.) Tlie Vase. — The celebrated vase of the Alhambra stands now in a corner of the Sala de las Dos Her- manas. This most splendid jar or vase {jnrron) is enamelled in blue. 188 GRANADA — ALIIAMP.RA. wliite, and gold : the comiwnion was broken during the governor Montilla's time, and the fragments sold to a French hidy. It is a fine specimen of tlie Moorish ceramic art, and dates 1320, belonging to the first period of the history of Moorish porcelain. It is 4 ft. 3 in. high. The ground is white, and the ornaments blue. In the middle are two animals, more like llamas than camels. It was found full of gold. The inscription has been differently inter- preted, but all the commentaries made are sheer nonsense. The only inscrip- tion is 'Eternal Salvation,' repeated very often. Here would be another subject of controversy — were the ani- mals painted by ]\Ioorish artists ? Scjmlchr.il Slabs. — Note also in this museum the two sepulchral slabs of the kings Yusuf III. and Mohammed II. Four only were found in the Pantheon or tomb-house of the iloorish king.s, which was situated not far from the Court of Lions, and close to the actual habitations of the curate of the Alhani- bra. They were found in 1574 (the two others of Ismael and Yusuf I. have disappeared), were placed perpendicu- larly, and the letters gilt on a blue ground. On one side was a long inscriii- tion in prose (which has been copied, though somewhat en'oneousl}'^, it is said, by Al. del Castilo), and on the other the defunct monarch's eulogium in verse. Tlie inscription of Yusuf III. is much deteriorated. The slab of Mohammed II. is of white marble, and is much better preserved. It was formerly placed over the fountain in the garden of the Adarves. It is inferior in the poetical sentiment. A sort of sarcophagus with a basso-relievo that was found in the gardens has been removed hither too ; the subject seems to be a fight between lions and deer, done in tlie most rough, coarse way. We also think them not to be Moorish work, and that, notwithstanding tht Moorish ornamentation, that they were probably found in some "Wisigothic ruins, and may liave formed part of a retablo. Sala de las Dos Hermanas (Hall of the Two Sisters), formerly called De las Losas (slabs). — The explosion of the gunpowder magazine already referred to injured this hall as well as that of the Tribunal, destroying in both the beau- tiful glass windows, which were painted ' con muchas istorias y armas reales. ' (Archives. ) This suite of rooms derives its name from two equal-sized white slabs which form a portion of the pave- ment, and are called ' The Sisters.' Before entering into this most beautiful hall, observe the arch with the white marble on the sides, and on it ' There is no conqueror but God,' etc. This arch leads into a narrow ante-chamber ; on the sides are small doors, opening on inner rooms. The second arch is also oval. On the impost, archivolt, etc., are several diminutive shields with the usual motto. Everything here ought to be attentively examined, for all is exquisite. The jiavement rises gradually. Observe the eli'ect from the Court of Lions towards the ilirador of Lindaraja. In the four walls of this hall there are arches, one at the entrance, two on the sides over the alcoves {al hamis, Arabice) or recesses in the wall, and a fourth leading to the scjnare hall leading to the Mirador de Lindaraga. On the walls the azulejos rise to a certain height, forming rich alicatado work ; it is de- corated at intervals with the shield of Ibn-1-Alimar. Over each arch there i.^ a latticed window, with \\ooAei\ jalousie (a most appropriate name), belonging to the upper floor. There is a fountain in the middle. The stalactite roof is most wonderful ; 'nearly 5000 pieces,' sa)'s Owen Jones, 'enter into its con- struction, and though they are mostly of GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 189 plaster, strengthened here and there with pieces of reed, no part of the palace is, in the jireseut day, in a more perfect state of preservation.' It is a profusion of vaults, miniature domes, most rich and elaborate. This formed a portion of the private apartments of the wives and slaves of the khalif. On the al- coves on each side were divans and couches ; but it was principally destined for the khdJif's wives and slaves. This hall abounds with inscriptions, all al- lusive, and of a character suited to the dwelling of the black-eyed sultanas. Mr. Owen Jones has copied most, but omitted unintentionally the eight me- dallions between the sixteen circles on the wall. The last medallion is a re- petition, as the anterior has been de- stroyed. We omit this poem, as well as the rest, the beauty of which lies rather in the musical sounds and words, than in feel- ing or thought. Corredor, Antesala del Mirador de Liiularaja (leading to the Mirador of Lindaraja). — The arch leading to this hall has an inscription in African char- acters, and two niches on the sides. This room is oblong, and has a pretty stalactite roof, with thirteen diminutive cupolas. In the wall in front are two ajimez windows, supported by marble and stucco columns. Mirador de Lhidaraja (from mirar, inirari, to see, to admii-e, to look on, or out), a boudoir of the sultana. It is a perfect square, and looks on the gar- den of the same name. There are three ajimez windows. The cornice is com- posed of small columns, arches, niches, etc. : the frieze is charming ; the arte- sonado ceiling peculiar in its construc- tion. Patio de la Reja. — On the left of the hall, between the Mirador and Hall of the Two Sisters, is a door, which leads throufrh a modernised corridor to some rooms repaired and modernised by Charles V., painted by several aitists, and whitewashed when Philip V. was in Granada. There are the initials K. and I., Charles and Isabella. Turning on the left, and through another cor- ridor, we arrive at a small patio called de la Reja (of the railing), so called from the iron one placed here, and rest- ing on iron pillars. It was placed here about the year 1639, and it is thought that in the adjoining room the silver of the kings was kept when they lived in the Alhambra. Opposite are the Bath-rooms ; on the left, the Court of Lindaraja ; on the right, the Hall de las Ninfas. Sala de los Bams (Bath-rooms). — This suite of apartments must have been considerably more numerous, though they were the private baths for the sultan and royal family. Their system of bathing was what we now call Turkish baths, and the way that the pipes and apparatus themselves were laid down would give us no mean idea of the proficiency of the floors in these matters. The first room is called Cuarto de las Camas, 6 del Dcscanso (liejjose), Chamber of the Couches, or of Rest. It has been very ably restored by Sr. Contreras. It is square, with four marble pillars forming a gallery all round, and on the sides two alhami.?, or alcoves, formed by two arches, which are supported by columns. Within the alcove was a raised-up couch, upon which the cushions were placed. In the middle a fountain. On the walls, over the azulejos, the badge with Charles V.'s motto, ' 2^^us idtra.' At each of the four angles a small door, arched, lead- ing to the bath-rooms. They were made in Abu AbdiUa's time, and pro- bably about 1303 to 1306, as the in- scrijjtions allude to the hopes that God may gi'ant him a speedy and near vic- tory. The ujiper portion is formed by 190 GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. four arches to eaclx wall, connected by railings. There are sixteen windows, over these a wooden jalousie, and over this again a superb artesonado ceiling. The upper gallery was used for musi- cians, who played and sang whilst the bathers were resting on the couches after being shampooed. This leads to some small rooms ; the first, Bano do los XiHos, used by the Sultan's children. They are each about 8 ft. long by 5 ft. wide. In each is a small recess in the wall, like a cabinet, formed by a horse- shoe arch, and in it a bath in white marble. Over this, on the Mall, a niche where to place the slippers, etc., and under it the pipes. From these you jiass to another, 13 ft. long by 8 wide, which serves as an antechamber leading to a square one. Here at each side are alcoves, and in front a door leading to the principal bath-room. There are two fine large baths here ; one is 10 ft. long, 5 4 wide (across), with two stop- pers to warm the water ; the other one is square, and all have niches. This room communicated formerly with others where the water was heated, etc. The pavement of all these rooms is of white Macael marble. The roof was lighted up with lumbreras, louvres, or port-holes, cut into the shape of stars. The domes of the Krara'-rahs in the East have similar apertures. Tlie recesses formed by the columns had probably divans, where the manipuhi- tions were performed. These were probably the hot and cold baths, called in the East Hau'-a-fceyehs. Sala dc los Secretos (Chamber of Se- crets), wliich ought rather to have been called Chamber of Indiscretions. Applying the ear to an opening made at each angle, one can hear what is said at the otlier extremity, however low spoken. This is an acoustical device, produced by the shape of the ceiling, which forms an elli})tical figure ; thus all sonorous sounds, spreading from a focus, are reflected to another one by the hollow walls. There is anotlier similar secrets-roora near the Myrtle Court. Jardin de Lindaraja (Gai'den of Lin- daraja). — A small garden. In the middle is a fine fountain with a basin 10 ft. diameter ; from its centre a high pedestal springs, which supports a tazza, which has the shape of a shell ; its workmanship is Ai-ab, and the inscrip- tion aroimd it partly worn out. All round this garden is a gallery, supported by fifteen Arab columns on two sides, and on the third by machones of brick. In this court is a window Avitli a superb look-out on the woods of the Alhambra, Generalife, Darro, etc. Under the Salon de Comares is the chamber called ' de las Ninfas,' not now shown, which used to contain some statues of nymphs ascribed to the artists brought by Charles V. for his palace here, and a medallion of Carrara marble representing Jupiter metamorphosed into a swan, etc., and two fauns. Close by is a small room, from which the ascent is made to the Eoyal Chapel, rarely shown. The ceiling is inlaid, the coloming fine. Some suppose that the window on the right served to let down Boabdil, and not that in the Hall of Ambassadors, which is higher. The CapiUa Ileal, wliich was used by the Catholic Idng.s, is a mixture of Arab and Christian stj'les, of Koranic signs mixed with the Catholic ones, and shields, etc. Over the altar is a pictm-e by Ivincon, the Adoration of the Kings ; at each side an image representing Vice. The windows look on some gi'ounds and paltry hovels, which once were part of the palace, and jireserve here and there some vestiges of past magnificence. Tocador dc la Edna (the Queen's Boudoir). — A heavy gallery, built by I GRAN ADA— ALU AMBRA. 19] Charles V., leads to this room. It is 9 ft. square. In a comer of the room is a marble slab, drilled with sixteen holes to admit perfumes whilst the sul- tana was at her boudoir ; but we rather think that it was a sort of calorifere contrived by the chilly Charles V. The walls are fresco-painted with subjects, views of sea-ports ; the frieze is com- posed of sphinxes, genii, winged heads of serpents, etc. etc. There are nine windows, and between each are in- different paintings, such as the Fall of Phaeton, etc. The artesonado ceiling is pyramidal, with inlaid wood painted and gilt ; round are several Arab pil- lars, much deteriorated, and half block- ed up by Charles V. There are also several figures painted, representing Faith, Hope, and Charity, Justice, etc. The initials F. and Y. are the mono- grams of Philip V. and Isabelle. The frescoes are by Bartholomew Rajos, whose brother Pedro has left some works at Granada, and by Alfonso Perez and Juan de la Fueute. This room was used by the Ai-abs as a mOirab, or ora- tory, for the evening prayers. The tower is lofty. The view from it is very grand — the Generalife with its gardens and white si)arkling buildings, the river Darro and its banks lined with poplars, the verdant Vega, and snow-clad Sierra Nevada. La Mczquita (the Mosque). — Near the entrance is an elaborate and beautiful niche. This mosque was converted into a chapel by Charles V. ; a gi-eat many injuries and sad restorations and clianges have taken place. The walls have been whitewashed, the hall reduced almost to half its former size by a railiiig, and the floor considerably raised. The carved roof is exquisite, resembling tortoise-shell work, and gilt ; it was repainted by Ferdinand and Isabella. Near the entrance, on the right, is the exquisite niche in which the Koran was deposited. The inscription on the sides is taken from the 7th Sura of tlxe Koran, versicle 204 : ' Be not one of tlie negli- gent.' The altar is heavy, and placed in the middle. The floor of the mosqm has been lowered about 2 ft., with a view to obtain height for the raised gallery or pew. The azulejos are verj' fine, and run up the walls about 5 ft. high; the inscriptions are only the often - repeated verses of The glory is God's ; the power is God's ; the empire is God's. Between the azulejos, ' There is no con- queror but God, ' and the shields of the kings of Granada, bearuig the above motto. The capitals of the choir pil- lars were gilt and painted by Prado in 1631. Patio de la, Mezquita (Mosque). — On the right of this patio is a sort of jjortico or atrium, formed by three arches, which are supported bj' marble columns, with a door leading to the coiridor commiuiicating with the mosque. This court, with its lovely ornamentation, has been carefully restored by Sr. Contreras. It was built by Mohammed v., as the verse on the wooden frieze under the roof has it, which must for- merly have gone round the whole court. Note especially the decoration of the fa9ade and cornice, the windows, and the column capitals. Origiuall}^ there was a fountain in the centre. New-discovered Hall. — A hall called Sala de los Blasones, or Hall of the Shields or Escutcheons, because it is decorated with several shields with initials, has been lately discovered. The walls were whitewashed, thus con- cealing the former Arabic work, and are being restored ; the plaster has been taken down, and the wonderful orna- mentation is now revealed. Its former stalactical roof and ornamentation are of the work called Comarragia (that o.( Hall of Ambassadors), and are now beini^ 192 GRANADA — ALHAMBRA, extricated out of the modern roof which already existed in Fhilip V.'s time. It was pi-obably used for festivities, or as a dming-room. The bancpeting-hall in the East was always near a court and garden (compare Esther vii. 7, 8). Minor Cimositics withvi the circuit of the AUiambra.—ATOviiid the walls are several toivcrs still extant, hut mostly going fast to ruin ; some deserve very close examination from their beautiful workmanship. Ask for a noteworthy statue of Paris. According to some, it is a Roman statue ; according to others, it was made and destined for the palace of Charles V. There is also a pillar, with the Latin inscription, 'Corneliaj L. F. ; Cornelians; P. Valerius Lucanus. Uxori indulgen- tissimaj, D.D. L.D. O.D.' It was pro- bably over a Roman tomb, and dedi- cated, as it runs, by one Valerius Lucan to his most indulgent wife, Cornelia. Before these we must mention the parish church of Sta. Mai'ia de la Al- hambra. It was built in 1581 by a Burgalese architect, Juan de Vega, and was finished in 1583. It was built for Philip II., and it is supposed Juan de Herrera was not a strangei* to the general plan. On the S. end, let into the wall, is a slab of Macael marble with a Gothic inscription referring to the con- secration of three churches built in the times of the kings Viterico and Recared, This church was built on the site of the great mosque which was destroyed (fell down) in time of Philip II. The mosque was built by Mohammed Abu Abdallah III. in 1308, and Ibn-ul- Kattib describes it thus : ' It is ornamented with mosaic work and ex- quisite tracery of the most beautiful and intri- cate patterns, intermixed with silver flowers and graceful arches, supported by innumerable pillars of the finest polished marble' (Gay- angos). The sultan had consecrated to it part of the taxes paid by Jews and Chris- tians, and had sold several estates to make a rent for it. — (Casiri, ' Bibl. Arabico-Hispana.') In Al Kallet, par. 5, Mah. III., quoted by Lafuente Al- cantara. The Convent of San Francisco, now secularised, is not far from thi.s, and was the first built after the con- quest by Talavera, the confessor of Isabella, in 1492. At their death, the bodies of the Catholic kings were first placed here until removed, in 1525, to the Capilla Real. There were gardens here, and the bath-houses of the Moorish princes. Fortress. — The walled circuit formed by the fortress of the Alhambra is the highest in the capital ; it is 2690 ft. (Spanish) long by 730 ft. in its widest part. The average thickness of the walls is 5 ft. and the height 27 ft. In the walls there are at intervals turrets, which begin at the Torre de la Vela, follow the Adarves, Gate of Justice, Tower of Prisons, Tower of the Siete Suelos (where the door is said to exist, but cannot be seen, through which Boabdil sallied to meet the Catholic kings), Torre of the Water, Towers of Catholic Kings, of Los Picos, Infanta, Comares, the circular cubo tower of Homenage and the Quebrada, and that of the Ar- moury close to the Vela. The French on withdrawing exi^loded great part of tlie fortress, especiallj'' that towards the Generalife. The walls and towers are made of chinarro (flint, earth, and lime), which become like stone under that petrifying baking sim. Not a less curious por- tion is the subterraneous Alhambra, full of corridors, chambers, etc., which served the princes as ways of escape during the often-occurring intrigues and other dangers of war and faction. Towers. — De las Damas, or del Prin- cipe, built by the Sultan Ismael. This tower was presented to the nation by its lateGerman owner. It retains its?HiVrtf?or GRANADA — ALIIAMBRA. 19.3 intact, with some very lovely decora- tion. Visit, close by, the tiny mosque where some say that Jusuf I., the chief founder of the Alhambra, was murdered at his prayers. Note here a very per- fect Arabic inscription, formerly placed over the entrance of tlie Mint ; also two Assyrian lions, brought from the same place, and the coat of arms of the first Christian proprietor, Astasio de Braca- monte. Torre dc las Infantas: once the residence of the Moorish princesses. Beautiful decorations ; machicolated roof, and portico leading into a pretty gallery ; two arches, with a slender col- umn between them, are exquisitely orna- mented ; poor in inscriptions : one runs thus : — ' Glory be to our lord the Sultan Abu Abdillah, the contented with God.' Torre de la Cautiva (Captive). — So called because it was, doubtfully, for some time the residence of the beauti- ful Christian prisoner, Dona Isabel de Solis, afterwards the favourite sultana of Abn Hasen, who called her the Morning Star, ' Tsorayya, ' or ' Zoraya ' (the word in Arabic rather signifies ' the Pleiades' than any determined star. — ' Iscripciones de Granada,' p. 176. Observe the slender arches and a deli- cate tarkish. The central chamber of this tower possesses some of the best azulejos, and most delicate and delicately coloured ornamentation of the whole Alhambra. The style is that called ' Comarragia,' of which the Hall of Ambassadors is a fine specimen, and it was most probably (a presumption based on the adoption of this style and the inscription) erected by Abul-Iiad- jaj-Yusuf, 7th king of the Beni-Xasr dynasty. The greater portion has been well restored by Sr. Contreras. It is square, has three windows and one door. On the portico are four inscriptions of the usual short sentences. On the walls f(-rming the four angles are other insciiptions. On another wall may be read the 114th Sura, wherein the dogma of the unity of God is opposed to that of the Holy Trinity. (In the coins of the Khalifs of the East and Spain, until the period of the Almoravides, this same legend is found, which constitutes one of the fimdamental dogmas of the Mussulman religion. ' This tower must have been built about, or rather after, 1325. The captive might have been the fair Chi-is- tian that Abul Walid Ismael (who died 1325) carried off from the harems of Mohammed Abn Ismael, king of Algeciras, at the siege of ilartos. Visit also the Torre de los Picos, guarding the Puerta de Hierro, and, some distance from the Alhambra but intimately connected with its story, the Cuarto Real, in the huerta which once belonged to the Convent of San Domingo. The exterioris solemn, plain, and severe, as are all iloorisli palaces ; the inside is a square room, lofty and spacious, which was the secluded palace to which the Granadine kings resorted for the Rhamadan or fasting period, and the inscriptions seem to confirm this presumption ; much deteriorated. It is private property, and an endeavour is being made to repair it well. The entrance is by an arch very well pre- served, and upon its jambs on the azu- lejos (left and right) there is a compli- cated and showy effect of wliite, green, and purple. See also four exquisitely decorated arches, above which were as many windows, now filled up; beautifully inlaid roof; charming azulejo columns ; and the arched alcove with its pretty window. The white tiles with golden scroll must be obser%-ed, as being exception^ to the rule. Generalife. — Jennatu-l'-Jirif, Ara- bicfe, the Garden of the Architect. (Cards, to visit the house and gardens, at the Casa de los Tiros, lo a.m. to 12 o'clock, where ask to see the sword of El Rey Chico, etc. (p. 200).) i94 GRANADA — ALII AMBR A. Tliia summer villa of the sultans of 1 1 rauada was, probably, in the first in- stance, an important watch-tower, or advanced sentry of the fortress of the Al- hambra. It was built no doubt by the first kings of Granada, and considerably enlarged, or rather rebuilt, in the reign of Abu-1-Walid, about the 'Year of the Great Victory of lieligion, ' as the inscriptions run, that is in the month of Kabie 1, 719, which corresponds to April-May, 1319— the very year when the armies of the Infantes D. Juan and D. Pedro were routed and the princes killed ; an event that took place close to Sierra Elvira. Marmol, who wrote in the 16th century, derives the etymo- logy from 'Garden of the Dance' (De Li Zanibra), which certainly would ap- pear more appropriate to this the abode of pleasure and revelry. The palace and gardens became the hereditary alcaldia of the house of Avila, and sub- sequently by marriage a portion of the estates of the ISlarcpiis of Campo Tejar (of the Italian Grimaldi-Gentili iamily of Genoa), Philip IV. having made it a perpetual grant to the house of Granada and Venegas. There is, besides, an- other house of Grauada, whose dukes are descendants of Doiia Isabel de Solis (Zoraya), the fair sultana of Abu- Hasen. This palace, which was used on great festal occasions, is inferior to the Alhambra in size and general stjde. Our appreciation of its merits is, how- ever, liable to mistake, as whitewash and neglect have been busy at work, and but little remains to recal the glowing descriptions contained in the lew poems which have escaped the wrathful hands of restorers. A princi- pal feature must have been the gardens and waters. The cannl of the Dano empties here its abundant and rapid waters, which flow through a series of evergreen arches formed bj' yews tANTStcd and cut into quaint patterns. On the sides gi'ow oranges and lemon trees, their vivid shining leaves con trasting pleasantly with the sombre arrowy cypresses. On leaving the .iVlhambiti, passing by the Hotel de los Siele Suelos, and glancing to some ruius on the left, said to be remains of the stables of the Moorish guard, we turn to the left and enter, by the Cancela de Fuentepena, the principal avenue of the villa, which ou approaching nearer is shaded by tall close - cropped cypresses and hedges. On arriving, the portress, who seems a descendant of the former door-keepers of the palace, comes down lazily and opens the door, which leads into a spacious patio, with a garden in the middle, through which runs the Acequia. A long gallery, decorated with slender pillars and seventeen arches, runs on the left, overlooking the Alhambra. Whitewash laid in thick coats has concealed, and may have saved in some respect the delicate tarkish, the ceiling, and arabesques over the pillars. The chapel into which visitors are taken next is most indifferent, and was built on the site of a Moorish oratory or mihi-iib, of which some portions may be still de- scried. A few modernised rooms follow, in one of which are placed some dairbs vouchsafed as authentic portraits of Boabdil, the Catholic Kings, Gonzola de Cordova, etc., and a family tree of the Campotejars. There is, however, close by, a most exquisite boudoir, which has preserved its former style. Observe the coloured domic ceiling, the stuccoed walls, Avhich look like the open W'Orked leaves of a Chinese fan. Pass on by a staircase to The Court of the Cijprcsscs. It is square, with a pond and fountain in the centre, sur- rounded by roses and box shrubs. The garden preserves the general form of the Moorish period ; but was GRANADA — CATHEDRAL. 195 'iiodernised in t)ie reign of Charles V. Observe tlie 'beautifiil cypresses, which date from the time of the Moors. Under one of the largest, a love-scene is said to have taken place, in which Sultana Zoraya was the heroine. A scries of lovely upper gardens, and a final Mirador, crown the slopes; the view from which is glorious. A side- door leads to the Silla Del Moro, a hill, the summit of which was, until lately, generally supposed to have been the site of the celebrated Alijares, another sumptuous Moorish palace. (It is toler- ably well established, now, that the Alijares crowned the opposite, lower hill, over the C'ampo de los Martires.) Here was also the far-famed summer villa of Darlaroca, or the Bride's Palace ; and on the other side, descending towards the Genii, stood the wonderful aviary of Dar-al-wad, or House of the River. There are some remains of a mihiab and J[oorish tanks, the largest of which is the Algibe de la Lluvia. Turn now to the right, and get, by the Cemetery road, into the Canvpo de los Martires. On this spot Boab- dil, the day of the surrender of his cajntal, met Cardinal Mendoza, and proceeding a little farther, close to the present small church of St. Sebas- [ tiau, the ill-fated dethroned monarch held the interview, already described, with the Catholic Kings, who, on January 6, entered the city, holding a gi-and levee in the Hall of Comares. The convent, once situated here, has been removed. The slopes of the hill are covered with excavated hovels, in- habited by gipsies, and farther on by carmenes or villas. To the left a small avenue leads to the fine mansion and gardens of Mr. Meersnians. Following the road by the gardens, we reach the Torres Bermejas, or Red Towers. Here is the Church of San Cecilio, a Muz- arabic church during the Moslem's sway, raised to a parish in 1501. Cafbcbral. — Hours to see Cathedral, 8 A.M. to 11 A.M., and 3 p.m. to 4 i'.m. To see the Chajjcl Royal, after or before the coro service, apply at sacristia, mistrusting all chance guides. This tine specimen of the Gra;co-Roman style was intended by the architect to be second to no church in the world, ' ex- cept, perhaps, St. Peter's.' The pro- portions are good, but the building is not seen to advantage, from being rather choked up by the surrounding houses. It was built on the site of the great mosque, and begun in 1529 by Diego de Siloe, son and scholar of the celebrated Burgalese, Gil de Siloe, con- tinued by his pupil, Juan de ilaeda, and Juan de Orea, one of the architects who worked at the palace of Charles V. It was completed in 1639. Exterior. — It is i>laced between the Plaza de Bi- barrambla and that of Las Pasiegas ; the principal facade is in the latter square, and is composed of three en- trances, adorned with statues and alto- relievos. Interior. — Noble, simple, and grand, divided into five naves ; the pQlars massive, with heavy entablatures and weak superimposed cols. Domical roof poor ; windows bald. The choir is in the middle ; the stalls of ditlerent periods and indifferent merit ; the trascoro is churrigueresque, but not of its worst stj'le, made up of red, black, and white marbles, with a cmious mosaic on the altar, which a lusus na- turce, slightly aided by man, may re- present the "Temptation of St. Anthony in the Desert. The organs are not in good taste, but first-rate as instruments. The marble pavement verj' fine, and placed at the end of the last century. The noble cimborio rises some 220 ft , and the arch {arco toral), 190 ft., open- ing to the coro, has a bend which is much admired by connoisseurs. The dome is painted in white and gold ; the I high altar stands isolated, and at tlie lOG GRANADA — CATHEDRAL. sides are the kneeling effigies of Fer- dinand and Isabella. The interior is 425 ft. long by 249 ft. wide (Spanish measure). The High Chapel is verj' fine. There are seven pictures by Alonso Cano, and the colossal heads of Adam and Eve, also by him, above the high altar, let into circular recesses ; there are fifteen chapels around the church. Beginning by those to the right, we may mention : — Capilla de San 3[iguel. — Founded by Peralta, Archbishop of Granada, and before Bishop of Tucuman and Cusco, whose enormous wealth was equalled by his generosity and love of art. He lived near Granada in his magnificent villa of Viznar, more like a king than a priest of God, and is buried here. It was built in 1804, by Romero de Aregon. The statue of the tutelar is of marble of llacael, and there are some fine jaspers from SieiTa Nevada. In the group, Satan absorbs all the room, which made the prelate observe, ' El diablo se lo ha llevado todo.' It was designed and executed by one Adam, who in this case was not the first man in his time. To the right a fine Alonso Cano, ' La Virgen de la Soledad. ' Next comes the door which leads to the sag- rario. Some pictures, and one before which San Juan de Dios used to pray. Cajnlla de la Trinidad. — Paintings : subject, God the Father a Dead Christ, by Cano, and a Holy Family on left by liocanegra. Altar or Clmpcl of Jesus Kazareno. — The retablo is full of pic- tures by Eibera and Cano ; the one in the middle, St. Paul, is the copy of one that was stolen in 1842, which theft is here kindly attributed to Ingleses over- enthusia,stic for ' las glorias de la escuela espanola.' By Kibcra, San Antonio, St. Lorenzo, the Magdalen ; by Cano, St. Augustine, La Amargura, a Christ, and a Virgin. Next comes the beautiful arch and door that lead to the Capilla Pe.^1. It is of good Gothic style, and mo.st richly ornamented ; observe the two splendid royal escutcheons, a series of saints in a row round the arch, etc. Chapel oj Santiago. — An equestrian image of St. James, by one Medrano. The different chapels about the interior between the naves are not remarkable ; at that of Sta. Ana, observe the pictures of San Juan de Mata and San Pedro Nolasco, by Bocanegi-a. Chapel de la Antigua. — Portraits, said to be exact likenesses, of Ferdinand and Isabella, by Rincon ; ascribed also to Juan de Se\'illa, who, it is added, copied them from the ori- ginals by Rincon, now at Madrid ; the image on the altar is the identical one which the Catholic kings brought to the camp during the siege, and placed in the Church del Carmen, near the Ermita de San Sebastian. Pass on to Chapel del Cdrmen. — A fine head of St. Paxil, b)'' Cano. Over the door leading to the Sala Capitular, observe a medal- lion and a beautifully composed and executed gi-oup of ' Charity,' by Pietro Torrigiano, Michael Angelo's rival, and favourite of Lorenzo de Medici. This great Florentine sculptor hastened to Granada when he heard that Charles V. had appealed to the first artists of the world to embellisli the church and make designs for the royal sepulchres of his father and mother and the Catholic kings ; he came, but was not chosen, iind left only this specimen of his talents. Near this door is a fine Crucifixion, by Bocanegra. Under the choir lies the gi-anadino Alonso Cano. The Chapel of the sagrario, a small church itself, and the parish church of the cathedral, was begun in 1705 and finished in 1759, on the site of the for- mer mosque, built in the 14th century. This was a square building, with a low roof, and divided into four small naves .supported by jasper ]iillars, forming by GRANADA — C ATll EDll AL. 197 their many arches a profusion of small cupolas elaborately carved. It was on one of its three doors, next to that leading fro the Eoyal Chapel, that Her- nan Perez del Pulgar nailed a tablet bearing the words ' Ave ilaria,' to ac- complish which feat, during the siege, he entered the town at dusk and left it unharmed amid the plaudits of the Aiiab warriors, who appreciated this exploit. There are some well-carved effigies and precious marbles. In the Sagrario lies the first Archbishop of Granada, F. dc Talavera, obt. 1507. The tomb was raised by his fiieud, Conde de Tondella, and inscribed ' Ami- cus Amico. ' Here is a chapel where the hero is buried, and called hence del Pulgar. Chapel Royal (Capilla de los Reyes). — So called, because it is the burial-place of Ferdinand and Isabella, of Philip, and Juana, theh- daughter. It is the chief object of interest in the cathedral, although it is independent of it, and has its especial chapter and chap- lains. It was built by order of Ferdi- nand and Isabella, by Felipe Vigarni, alias Philip de Borgona, in tlie special Cinquecento style adopted by this ar- chitect. Observe the groups of slender pillars in the angles tei-minating at the capitals iu palm branches that spread over the roof. A magnificent reja divides the churcli, and is the work of I'artolome of Jaen, 1533. Ob- serve the escutclieons with the yugos (yoke) and bundle of arrows. The in- scription, which runs round the cornice, is to this effect : This chapel was founded by the most Catho- lic Don Fernando and Dona Isabel, King and Queen of las Espanas, of Naples, of Sicily, and Jerusalem, who conquered this kingdom, and brought it back to our Faith ; who acquired the Canary Isles and Indies, as well as the cities of Oran, Tripoli, and Bugia ; who crushed heresy, expelled the Moors and lews from these realms, and reformed religion. The Queen died Tuesday, Nov. 26, 1504. The king dteian Cristobal. — In the Albaycin bar- rio. The view from its belfry is ex- tensive, and worth tlie trouble of the ascent. Tower of San Jose. — Very early ; built close to the forrr >r ram- parts of the Alcazaba. San Juan de los Reyes. — The former mosque, El Teyhir. The first mosque which was converted into a Christian church after the cap- ture of the town by the Catholic kings. San Nicolas. — A former mosque. The view from it is the finest in Granada. Salvador. — On tlie site of the lar- gest mosque in this quarter of the town ; in a patio near the house inhabited by the sexton are some Moorish remains. Consecrated by Cardinal Ximenes, November 16, 1499. On that same day began the forced conversion of the Jloors. Built by Alonso de Vega. San Geronimo, church and convent, begun by Siloe, 1492, for Talavera, confessor of the Catholic kings ; finished by the widow of El Gran Capitan ; re- stored in bad taste 1S82. Gonsalvo himself was buried here. See his tomb and that of liis wife. See aLso their effigies on either side of the hit,'h altar, and, in the transepts, the figures of Gonsalvo's four companions. CoUgiaia del Sacro Monte. — On a hill, a steep ascent ; the early Puerta Quem.-»da arch is seen on the way, said to be a Roman work. The church is indifferent ; the transept leads to the .Santas Cuevas, a subterranean series of chapels filled with slabs, etc., and erected iu I commemoration of supjjosed mir.icles, treasure- 1 trove, finding of early records, and medals, etc. Sto. Domingo. — Founded by the Catholic kings, at the request of the celebrated Fray 1 Tomas de Torquemada (near it is the Cuarto [ Real). See supra. Santo Domingo. — The facade is by Siloc. Here are fine specimens of Alonso Cano, Juan j de Sevilla, A. Bocanegra, and J. Sanchez Cotan. Do not fail to observe the six fine enamels on the portable altar from the Convent of San Geronimo. The Provincial " Museo de Antiguedades," has been arranged in the first floor. Observe some interesting Moorich pottery, arquebus, etc Open all day. San Juan de Dios. — Founded by this Portu- guese saint, who was bom 1495 ; came to Granada, and manifested his fanaticism in such a manntr that he was considered mad, and shut up in the Hospital Real in a cage, which is shown to visitors. Public Buildings. — These are of no importance, being mostly built at a period when tlie prosperity of Granada was rapidly declining, and those that date from the Moorish epoch, and of that of the Catholic kings have been so considerably altered and injured that they no longer retain any charac- ter. "We shall, however, mention them, and let our readers judge for them- selves. Casas ConsistoHalis. — The build- ing was erected by the Jloors, and was used, it is believed, as an university, where the celebrated Koranic Academy, founded by Abdallah Solyman Al-Cas- .sim, was established. It was modern- ised in 1720. Hospital de los Locos, or Ltmatic Asylum. — Corner of Plaza del Triunfo. One of the earliest kno^vn. Founded by the Catholic kings, Gotho- plateresque style. Chancilleria, or Court of Chancery, in Plaza Nueva, built 1584, by Martin Diaz Navarro. University. — "Was founded in 1531, by Charles V., and Pope Clement VII. granted to it privileges similar to those of the universities of Bologna, Paris, Salamanca, and Alcald de Henares ; the botinical garden annexed to it is all weeds and neglect. Museo. — Few good painting.^, por- traits of the Catholic kings, In Kin- 200 GRANADA. con, several by Bocanegi~a and Cotan, a portable altar from San Geronimo, with six fine enamels on copper, and specimens of Mora and Eisneno. Libraries. — That of the University. A polyglot Bible and several worlx's on theology, few Arab MSS., and little of interest relative to Granada. Private hoitses. — A group in the aris- tocratic Calle de las Tablas. In the Calle de Gracia, No. 23, the Empress Eugenie — doiia Eugenia de Guzman de Portocarrero — was born. Near the post office stands the house of the Gran Capitan, and, close by, the interesting old Casa de los Tiros, belonging to the Marquis de Campotejar. Here may be seen the fine sword of El Key Chico, some fair tapestries and a heavily joistcd ceiling carved with a series of heads — of the Reyes Catolicos, etc. A few minutes' walk from here is the Puerta del Carbon, once the barracks of the Moorish cavalry. The doorway and arch are fine, but rapidly deteriorat- ing. The Casa was built as early as 1070, by Badis. Do not fail to notice the fine 16th century Casa de Castril in the Carrera del Darro, with good renaissance details after Diego de Siloe, and the motto ' Esperandola del cielo,' about which clings an interesting old legend. TFalls, Gates, Streets, ctc.—Oi the three cercas, or lines of circumvallation, with which the Moors fortified their beloved city, and which were flanked by 1030 massive towers, few and un- interesting vestiges remain. Of its former twenty gates, most have dis- appeared, and awkward repairs and alterations have disfigured the rest. Tlie principal is Tucrta de Monayma, in the Albacin ; its meaning in Arab is ' Gate of the Standard, ' and was so called because on the outbreak of any disturbance the khalif's roj'al standard was hoisted upon it, as a signal. Puerta de Elvira, so called betau.s<. it is placed towards Ghebal-Elveyrii, or Sierra El vira ; it has been recently repaired. Puerta del Pescado, with three Moorish arches. "\Ye have already noticed that of Las Granadas (Alhambra). The principal squares are : the renowned Bibarrambla, where once stood Bibkl- raml, the Gate of the River ; it is interesting only as having been the site of so many jousts and tournaments, gallant deeds, iloorish fantasia, not unlike those present Algerine hippie performances, etc., and the scene ol great events and continual partisan hostile meetings. The Moorish king rides up and down Through Granada's royal town ; From Elvira's gates to those Of Bibarrambla, on he goes. Woe is me, Alhama 1 — Lord Byron. Which latter verse ought to have been translated, ' Woe to my Alhama ! ' (Ay de mi Alhama !) This legend-haunted spot has been converted into a common- place Plaza de la Constitucion — sic transit gloria. . . Mauri. Close to it is the ancient Pescaderia, the modernised palace of the archbishop, whose homi- lies Gil Bias finally ventured to criti- cise, and adjoining it the cathedral. The town-hall is unworthy of notice. Plaza del Triunfo, a large open place, with a pretty fjaseo, a much-venerated effigy of the Virgin, by Juan de Mena, and a statue of Maria Pineda, a politi- cal martyr who was strangled here in May 1831. A constitutional flag hav- ing been found in her house, she, in consequence, was convicted of high treason, and mercile-sslj' condemned to death. The unfortunate lady has been executed a second time in effigy by the sculptor. Adjoining this plaza are tlie bull-ring. Church of San lldefonso. Gate of Elvira, and tlie Hospital Real. The Plaza Nueha contains little to interest us. It is built over the Darro. Here stands the modern Andiencui. GRANADA EXCURSIONS. 20 i and formerly the Cliancilleria, Avith a fiue fa(;ade. The prmcipal streets are, El Zacatin, where the princij)al Moorish market- place once stood, as the name suffi- ciently explains {zoc, Arabice a mar- ket, like the Zoko at Tetiiau, Zoco- dover at Toledo, etc.) It is now a narrow sombre street, lined with shojis. About half-way to the left is the Alcaiceria, the Moors' sOk bazaar. A great portion of it was destroyed by fire in 1842 ; but vestiges still exist of Moorish stucco work and rich orna- mentation. In the Calle de las Tablas are situated the houses of gi-andees. We may also mention, Calle de San Francisco, Acera del Genii, etc. Promenades, Theatres, etc. — The Alameda is a charming broad avenue formed by rows of stately elms that, uniting their branches above, foim a roof of foliage so dense that the shade beneath is most refreshing, even during the hottest days in the year. There are gardens on each side, covered with roses. There are fountains at the extremities which contribute to the coolness of the air in summer, but are otherwise unin- teresting. This i)romenade, and the bridge built at the upjier end of it, are tlie works devised by Marshal Sebasti- ani, who considered them probably as fully compensating for tin- destruction of the Alhambra, etc. The Alameda, or Paseo de Invierno, with the continua- tion Paseo del Salon and Paseo de la Bomba, are the fashionable walks; the fashionable hours of jiusco being 9 to 10 P.M. in the summer, 4 to 5 P.M. in the winter. The bronze monument at the end of the Alameda (by Mariano Benlliure, 1892) commemorates the agreement of Isabel la Catolica with Columbus, A.D. 1491. Kear the Alameda del Darro is the medicinal fountain de los Avellanos, the site of the Moorish Ayu-ad-dama, or the Fountain of Tears. Tlie present theatre (Teatro Principal) is small but elegant. Spanish comedies (modern), mostly French translation-s, drama.s, and dancing. The new theatre, de Isabel la Catolica, is elegantly fitted up. The Plaza de Toros is small, and tlie ' corridas ' here are considered very second-rate. Festivals. — The principal ?ocaZ festi- vals of the year are, the anniversary' of the taking of Granada by the Catholic kings, January 2. Piepair that day, about 3 to 4 p.m., to the Alhambra, wliere the bands play, and the pretty Granadinas, 'que son muy finas,' as rhyme and truth will have it, parade in their holiday dresses. On that day the peasant girls from the vega and sur- rounding hamlets repair to the Alham- bra, ascend the Torre de la vega, and each in turn strikes the bell that is placed there, which is said to ensure a husband, or at least un namo; but their black eyes are surer stiU to attract a gache, as the slang of the majority de- signates a Lindoro. On that day the fountains run in the Alhambra — a poor specimen now-a-days of what the (jraTides eaux. of that Moorish Versailles must once have been. On Corpus Christi the Plaza de Bibarrambla is crowded with pictiiresque groups. The feria takes place on the 5th, Gth, and 7th June. Conveyances to Lanjaron. — Service in summer only by Alchendiu, Padul, Durcal, Talara, and Bezuar; asmalldil. (offices, Fonda de la Alameda) ; fares, berl., 40r. ; int., 30r. ; cupe, 20r. Excursions. — Sierra Neva/la. — This excursion must be undertaken in summer only, and with a good guide. It \\\1\ interest the geologist and botanist as well as the general tourist. The Sierra Ne-- vada, the old OrosjKda and Moorish Uo Laiz, is a range of liill.s which ri.se east of Granada, and extend from nortb 202 GRANADA— EXCURSIONS. to east, presenting a series of pinnacles almost always clad with snow. On its southern slopes is the district of the secluded Alpujarras ; on its northern slopes are some very fertile valleys. From this main trunk branch the minor ranges of Gador, Lujar, Giiejar, Filabres, etc., which are clothed with forests, and are pregnant with marble, coal, and lead mines, and contain a remarkable medicinal herbal. Principal Heights of the Sierra Nevada. English Feet. Authorities. Mula Hacen . 11,781 Clemente. Picacho dc la Veleta . 11,597 Do. Do. . 11,432 Boissier. Cerro de la Alcazaba 11,356 Clemente. Cerro del Caballo . 11,200 Estimation. C'erro de los Machos . 11,205 Clemente. Col de la Veleta . 10,826 Boissier. Glacier of El Corral . 9,585 Do. Sierra Lujar . . 6,262 D'Ottensheim. Village of Trevelez . 5,330 Boissier. City of Granada . 2,343 Do. Village of Lanjaron . 2,284 Do. The Picacho de Veleta, as the easiest of access from Granada, is the one more generally selected ; the greater part may be ridden. Tourists gener- ally start in the night, retm-ning next day. A tour round the Alpiij arras will repay the trouble. Alheudin, Padul, Lanjaron, celebrated for its mineral springs and most picturesque situation, the valley of the Orgiba, the wild romantic Angosturas del Kio and Por- tugos are visited, and the grand ascent to ilula Hacen is then made. The start- ing-place is Trevelez. The view from the ilula Hacen is much grander than that from the Veleta. By starting very early, tourists may avoid a night in the mountains, and return next day to Orgiba through the lovely wild Bar- ranca de Poqueira, continuing by Lan- jaron back to Granada. A diligence ser- vice from Lanjaron to Granada during the summer season only. Pedestrian explorations of the Alpu- jarras having become of late somewhat more frequent than hitherto, the follow- ing particulars will be useful to our readers ; but the interesting paper of Mr. Charles Packe, published in the ' Alpine Journal,' and giving a detailed account of his ascent, should be pro- cured. (See also 'Alpine Journal,' vol. iii. 1867.) Make Lanjaron headquarters. Reach that place by dil. from Granada, or get down at Ultimo Suspiro del Moro, whence through Durcal, past the Gorge of Talara and Bridge of Tablate, and turning to left, take the rough by-road that zig-zags up hill to Lanjaron. There is a decent posada in this charmingly situated African town ' el paraiso de las Alpujarras,' which is famous for its fruit in general, and its oranges more espe- cially. Here a guide should be taken. (Inquire at the posada.) Walk to village of Capilleria by Orgiba, 2 hrs. to Barranco de Poqueira ; endea- vour by camping to avoid the abomin- able posada at Capilleria ; sleep. At daybreak begin the ascent, having pre- viously secured the assistance of a local guide acquainted with the Mula Hacen, which is neither dangerous nor even difficult. ' It is simply a long, heart- breaking grind.' After a few 'long, steep slopes of mica schist, crowned by a fringe of jagged rocks,' you gain the rocky pinnacle with a' structiu-e on the sxrmmit, built by Government engineers. The 'Corral,' literally farm-yard, is a sort of enclosure with only one narrow outlet, shut in by a precipitous wall some 8 or 10 miles in extent, the depth some 1500 ft. The glacier (0585 ft. above the sea, 200 to 300 ft. high, and GOO paces broad, Boissier), which is the source of the river Jenil, the Bairanio del Inficrno, etc., have not been much explored. Follow the path over the Colde la Veleta, \V. of t\\G }ncacho, and descend to either iKanjaron or Capilleria. GRANADA. 203 From the Trevelez valley (the liams here iie rivals to those of Capilleria ; they ire the ])est samples of the snow-cured Alpujarra hams) ycju may reiich Granada hy the way of L^jijar, and the mountain track across to Guadix. Soto de Roma (from Rum, the Chris- tian), situated on the Jenil, the estate of the Duke of Wellington, of some 4000 acres, worth about £8000 a year, and which was given to him by the Cortes. The buililings and grounds have heen greatly improved lately. Another excursion maybe made across the beautiful Huerta, 2 hours' ride to Santa Fe, whence 3 hours' ride will take the tourist to Padul and the hill called ' El Ultimo Suspiro del Moro ' (the last sigh of the Moor). See p. 165. Those travellers who are unable to make the complete ascent of the Sierra Nevada, may easily, in about 30 hrs., get a fair idea of the scenery by walking or riding (a) to Guejar, a small village lying under the Sierra of that name ; {b) to Huetor, and the Barranco de San Juan, situated under the Picacho de Veleta, where arc the quarries from which the green Serpentine is obtained. There is a good road nearly all the way, and the scenery, after passing the small village of Xenis, and beginning the ascent, is exceedingly fine. The posada at Guejar is intolerable, but decent quarters are obtainable in the private hou.se adjoining. K.B. — Seiior Contreras has upon sale, in his house in the Alhambra, close by the Puerta del Vino, reduced and well executed models of various portions of the palace. Books of Reference. — 1 . ' Descripcion del Reino de Granada, bajo las Naserita.s, ' by Simonct ; Madrid, Imprenta Na- cional, 1860, 1 vol. Interesting. 2. ' Insoripciones Arabes de Granad.i, ' by D. Eniilio Lafuente Alcautiira ; Madrid, 1859 ; very interesting. This young author is, after Sr. Gayangos and Estebanez Calderon, the most able Arabic scholar. The Nazerite dynasty is treated here at some length, as also by Simonet in his work (see supra, No. 1), and by Sr. Gayangos in 'Slemorial Historico Espanol,' vol. x. 3. ' El Libro del Viagero en Granada,' by M. Lafuente Alcantara ; Granada, Sanz, 1843, Svo. A new edition about to be printed ; good. 4. 'Manual del Artista, etc., en Gra- nada,' by Jimenez Serrano; Granada, Puchol, 1845, 12mo; reliable. Consult also Boissier's 'Voyage botan- ique dans le Midi de TEspagne,' Owen Jones on the Alhambra, and Contreras' 'ilonumeutos Arabes.' Read Prescott's ' Ferdinand and Isabella, ' Washington Irving's various works upon Granada, and the quaint ' Historia de hisgueiTas civilesde Granada,' by Gines Perez de Hita. Staiislic'i of Province, Agriculture, etc. — Granada is one of the eight pro- vinces into which Andalusia is now divided, and the most eastern. It is also one of the provinces which, with Almeria, Malaga, and Jaen, are com- prised within the juri.sdiction of a mili- tarj' district, or capitania-general, that extends over 1083 square leagues. [This has been lately suppressed, 1S95.] The population of the province amounts to about 478,000. It was one of the four Moorish kingdoms, or ciiatro reinos, the other three being Seville, Cordova, and Jaen, which contained about 3283 square leagues. The CUmate is admirably suited to agriculture, and under the combined influence of an African sun and mois- ture, kept up constantly by the alti- tude and snow of the mountains, which latter, melting the more as the heat becomes greater, flows abundantly into the plains, or vegas, and fertilises their light feiTugiuous soil, the succession 204 GRANADA — I'ROVINCE. of crops never ceases, and tlie country teems with every variety of i)ro(luction — viz., sugar-cane, lieinp, wine, oil, silk, corn, and fruits of all sorts. Such is, indeed, the fertility of this privileged soil that, with but little trouble, and with no other means than the primitive Moorish implements, the corn will yield in some vegas 70 to 90 per cent, and the Lugeralike alfalfa {medicago sativa), grown in ' tierras de regadio, ' or irrigated lands, will bear twelve or sixteen cuttings in the year. Climate.— Granada is the coni^Zemefti, as the French say, of Malaga ; we mean, of course, as a medical sta- tion ; and when the passive, indifferent Spaniard shall have tasted the cup of gold, and be roused to enterprise by the prospect of lucre, English comforts will doubtless be increased, and con- vert these places into the most fre- quented medical stations in Europe. Malaga for the winter, and Granada for the spring and summer, are likely to be finally adopted as residences suited to invalids, to whom the gradual transi- tion between the two would be more advantageous than to return to England in the summer after a winter at Malaga. Granada, besides its interesting sights, possesses many other inducements for a protracted residence : — Pleasant walks along the Genii and Darro, excursions in the environs, tiscents on the moun- tains, shady promenades in the gardens of the Alhambra and Alameda, some good shooting in the surrounding sotos, a public library, iminvestigated to this day, and whoise officials, Sres. Con- treras and others, are civil and obliging. There is also here a constant contrast, not devoid of charms and strangeness, between the Alpine character of the glaciers of Sierra Nevada, the liills snow-capped in the vicinity, the wild mountain torrents of the Genii and Darro, aud the African sun, the tropi- cal vegetation, the eastern aspect ol the houses, dress, and manners. In summer, owing to its northern aspect aud proximity to the glaciers, the heat is seldom intolerable, and during the winter 1883-4 it was our lot to experi- ence its riijorcs; and we can testify that had the house we lived in been better constructed, no fires would have been needed, and as it was, they were only lighted six or eight times. The tem- perature changes suddenly in winter. A raw, fresh breeze sweeps over the town in the morning, subsides in the middle of the day, and the N. E. com- mences to blow about dusk, when it is sometimes keenly felt. The oscillatory movements of the barometric column take place then on a scale of about 23 mill. The frequent cases of nervous, and a variety of neuralgic affections which occur at Granada, are the natural effects of the prevalence of the N. and E. winds, whose stimulant action irritates the nervous system. — (Dr. Cazenave.) Anginse and affections o/ the stomach, and intermittent fevers, which are observed here, are principally owing to the variability of the climate, and calculus is frequent ; but notwith- standing this, Granada is very healthy, and no endemic illness is peculiar to its climate. The finest and most pleasant months are April, May, and the begin- ning of June. Death liecle. — 1.20 in the capital. But the fact must not be lost sight of that Granada is the most ignoraut pro- vince of Spain, and that the larger pro- portion of the deaths arise from easily preventible causes. That the deatli rate is not enormously more than it actually is speaks volumes for the climate. There were thousands of lepers found in the city when the Catholic kings visited it after its siuTcnder in 1492 ; and they founded, in consequence, the magnificent hospital de San Lazaro GRANADA— -PRO^^NCE. 205 However, this cruel malad}' was at no time exclusively characteristic of this healthy and favoured region, but ex- tended itself all over the south of Spain from a very early period. Already, in the 13th century (128i), King" St. Ferdinand had founded the hospital de San Lazaro at Seville. Lepers are fa.st disappearing in Spain, there having been only 176, according to the latest accounts (1860). The principal hospi- tals are at Granada, Seville, Comua, and Barcelona. At the first, there were only 56 cases in 1860, and 74 in the preceding year. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF GrANADA. Centisrnde Thertnonieier. Temperature _c of Air. A >, Months. • "o Aver- Maxi- Mini- >, 3 age. 18.3 mum. Q CI December 9.6 I.I 16 173-3 January . 6.7 14.9 0.6 5 52-8 February 8.5 .8.5 I.O 9 59-9 March . 13.2 25.2 2-3 5 52.8 April . . 147 27.0 3-3 8 66.3 May . . 18. 1 32.0 6.0 9 50.6 June • . 22.1 34-1 9-4 I 3-1 July . . 259 37.9 12.9 August . 2y.i 38.5 .7.8 September 22.7 34-9 10. 5 I 31 October . i8.i 28.8 7-3 7 5t-7 November 12.7 21.S 4-9 9 69.2 Totals . 70 582.8 Average annual atmospheric pi essu: e 7°3-9 ,, ,, temperature . 16.8 Maximum temperature, Augu t 8 '. 38. 5 Minimum ,, ,, Janua ry 21 0.6 This province is composed of plains and mountainous ranges, the principal of which are Sierra Nevada to the S., the slopes of which are almost washed by the MediteiTanean, and the highest peak, Mula Hacen, rises 11,723 ft. ; the Sierra de Tejada, to S. ami W., and tlie Sierra Morena farther to the N., thus forming naturally most formidable ramparts on every side except to the E. The principal rivers are the Darro find Genii ; the first rises 4 leagues from Granada, close to Huetor, and the latter takes its soiu-ce at Giiejar, in Sierra Nevada, and joins the Darro in the vega, whicli both irrigate, and taking in several minor streams, such as Dilar, Mouachil, Alfacar, etc., flows through the Campos de Loja, and enters the province of Cordova through Hiz- najar. Owing to the difference in the temperature in the morning and the evening on Sierra Nevada, and its influence on the melting of its snow, the Genii has a sort of ebb and flow, rising in the evenings, wliilst it de- creases during the night. The Darro is said to contain particles of gold, and some poor people earn lOr. to 20r. a-day in the.se diggings. In 1526, a crown made from the nuggets found here was given to Isabel, wife of Charles v., and in 1862 the municipality pre- sented the queen with a large one, supposed likewise to have been, the produce of this river. There are soine mineral springs, and those especially of Albania (saline hot springs) are con- sidered most efficacious, and were much resorted to by the Arabs ; the ferrugi- nous carbonated spring of Lanjaron is also frequented for the diseases attend- ant on l}'Tnpliatic temperaments ; those of Alomartes and Baeza are hydro-sul- jihurous (for diseases of the skin). The seasons for Alhama are April to June, and September to October (see General Information : Mineral Baths) ; for Lan- jaron (14 mineral springs — hydrates of magnesia and soda) 15th June to 15th September. The province abounds with mines (many of which were advantageously worked by the Moors), and the moun- tains abound in marble and metals. Antimony is found at Motril and Aldeira. Zinc, copper, lead and silver, are also 206 GRANADA — rKUVINCE. frequent. Trade generally, however, is exceedingly limited, and consists chiefly in the exportation of iron and lead ores, refined lead, esparto and fruit, which are shipped at Motril and Ahneria. There is not one single nianufacture of silk or linen ; and yet there was a time when the silk trade occupied thousands of hands, and the produce was sent to Florence, Pisa, Genoa, and the Levant. The vegas and hills were then clothed with the mul- berry. The produce of each farm in the vega, under the Moorish rule, yielded on an average about £200 a-year, and the taxes paid by the farmers to the king amounted to about £20, 000. The silk crojjs that belonged to the Spanish monarchs were farmed for the sum of 181,500 gold ducats a-year ; there were 130 mills and 300 villages, of which 50 contained mosques, and 50,000 men could be mustered from the Alpujarras, Sierra, and plains. But the low price of corn and other produce (the former often sold for 20r. the fauega, and less) is the cause of the poverty of the peo})le and of the low wages (5r. to 8r. a mechanic, 5r. a labourer, and 2^1. at Loja, Alhama, and the Alpujan'as) ; and these evils are aggravated by the want of roads. But in a few years it may be expected that Granada will enjoy better railway communication with the principal centres of consump- tion and trade. Alreidy the following lines are in construction or actual •working : (1) From ilurcia rid Lorca and Guadix to Granada, with branch lines to Aguilas( junction, Almendricos) and to Akneria (junction, Guadix) ; (2) From the rising seaport of Almcria to Linares, cutting the Madrid line at Baeza ; (3) From Granada to Jacu, shortening the tedious journey north- wards vid Bobadilla and Cordova. As for schools or public education, there is little or none, beyond a toler- ably well - managed university at (Jranada, and some wretched public schools and private academies. About 100 in 1000 know how to read and write, y las cuatro rcglas, and out of a population of nearly 480,000 not more than 25,000 attend school regularly. As a race, the Granadino is lively, intelligent, bold, and the women are fascinating and graceful ; but neither is the former as elegant, witty, and vioqaeur as the Sevilian majo, nor the latter as pretty and sprightly as the Malaguenas. The inhabitants of the Alpujarras, the descendants of the Berbers, are a very fine race— hardy, honest, grave, sober. The men are tall and handsome ; they are very fond of drawing the navaja as an ' ultima ratio, ' and in the criminal statistics of Spain this province ranks as the second for murder and maiming. In objects of interest, Granada and its Alhambra are of the highest order in Spain, and the Alpujarras will not fail to interest the artist, geologist, and liotanist ; we recommend pedestrians who may have visited and scaled every peak in the Pyrenees and Switzerland to come here and explore this new field, which has been almost closed hitherto to scientific investigation. All who feel an interest in the poetry of the past are doubtless already ac- quainted with this land of romance, in which every tower has been the scene of some love-legend, and every ruin the record of some chivalrous deed. To those who would know more upon this score, and as a fitting preparation pre- vious to visiting this part of Spain, wc recommend the reading of Washington Irving's ' Tales of the Alhambra,' I'rescott's ' Ferdinand and Isabella,' and J.Y.Gibson's' Ikliads' (London, 1887). Granada was for a long period of yeans the seat of scholarship in Spain, and gave birth to some most eminent writers GRANADA — I'ltuVINCE. 207 auJ artists. Amongst others we must ineiitioii Fray Luis do Granada (1505). Hurtido de Mcudoza (1505), who wrote several religious works, was tlie historian of tlie war of Granada, and author of that early Gil Bias, ' Lazarillo de Tonnes.' Mar'ninl (1573), tlie author of 'Descripeion de Africa.' Ponce de I^eon (1529), who wrote on theology. Suarez (1548), one of the most learned Jesuits, much praised by Hugo Grotius. In arts we may mention Bocanegiu (1660), Alfonso Cano (1601), and Moya (1610), all celebrated painters, and the second a great sculptor besides. The best time to vasit tliis province and make excursions in the mountains is from June to October. April and May are pleasant months at Granada. The Sierra Elvira, Tejada, Huescar, etc., are not quite so Alpine in character, or lofty as Sierra Nevada, but more pic- turesque and woody. History.— After the battle of Guada- lete (a.u. 711), in which King Rodrigo perished, and with him the Gothic kingdom, the victorious Tarik advanced towards Toledo, whilst he entrusted to his lieutenants the subjugation of the surrounding provinces. The conquest of the lUiberitan region was assigned to Zaid Ibn Kesadi, who soon achieved it, and fixed his residence in lUiberis, the capital. The exact situation of this city has not been ascertained, as it was completely destroyed, and tlie ruins partly used in the building of Granada ; but according to the Arab, Ibn-1-Jathib, and some otlior writers, it must have been about 3 m W. of Granada, and close to Sierra EMra. Illiberis was an important place under the Romans, who had fortified and enlarged the primitive Phoenician city. It is mentioned as such in Pliny, 'Hist. Nat.,' and was raised to a municipium under the empu-e. The Goths had not lost sight of its natural advantages, and maintained its rank as metropolis of that widely ex- tending region. It was a bishop's see, and is celelirated in the annals of the Churcli as being the site chosen for the first council held in Spain (300 A.c). Granada was at that time a small city, inhabited cliiefly by the descendants of those Jews wlio had fled from the per- secution of the Roman emperors in the East, and liad been dispersed over various parts of Southern Europe. The AmaUkiles, as they were then called, settled in Spain, where they founded many colonies. They were of very high caste, and succeeded in acquiring an independent position and influence, which at first they used to promote their commercial interests, but subsequently extended to political purposes. Their enormous riches and power drew upon them eventually the distrust of the Goth, who peisecuted the race with merciless envy and sectarian hatred. The Jews, who had never ceased to hold intercourse with the Berbers — themselves half Jews and half Pagans, and who had always looked on Spain as their special prey — formed a plot, which was to deliver them of their op- pressors, and open the gates of every city in Spain to their allies. This exten- sive plot was discovered, and led only to an aggravation of rigour. But at length the Goth was overcome, and thus it was the Jews who principall}' as- sured the success of the Mohammedan, or rather Berber, invasion of Spain. As a reward, therefore, of their support, the Jews of Granada were allowed in- dependent residence, whilst the Arabs retained Illiberis, which they called Elvira ; just as Hispalis (Seville), was turned into IxbUia, and Satabis (Jativa) became Xathiba. The etymology of Granada, which the Arabs first called Kamatt;\h-al-Yahoud (Granada of the Jews), lias been much and often dis- cussed. No satisfactory explanatioo 208 G RAN AD A — PROVINCE. has been given of this. The city then was most proljably situated on the site now occupied by the parish of San Ceci- lio, and under the shelter of the Torres Beriuejas, tlie Ked Towers. It was, nevertheless, made dependent of the Wall, or governor, of Elvira. About 743, thousands of Eastern as well as African colonists came to Spain, allured by the hope of riches and the report of the climate, so like their own. Dis- cord, originating from dilference of race and sects, ensued, to settle wliich the Khalif of Damascus decided that the third of the remaining lands belonging to the Christians and Jews should be given over to the new comers, and each tribe settled in that region which pos- sessed the greatest analogy with the native countiy. Thus, to the Egyptians were allotted tlie arid plains and table- land of j\lurcia and Estremadura. Those who came from the mountainous regions of Palestine fixed themselves in the serrania of Ronda and Algesiras ; the legion from the valley of the Jordan chose the fields of Archidona and Malaga, and 10,000 Damascenes settled in the province of Elvira, which re- minded them of the sunny land they had quitted. Indeed the vega appeared to them to surpass their 'Ghauttah' in extent, fertility, and beauty ; the Genii was not unlike the Barada, and the Sierra Nevada bore resemblance to the snowy summits of Mount Hermon. In their Oriental style, they called it rapturously the Sham or ' Damascus ' of the West — a terrestrial paradise, whose fountains were pure and fresh as the breath of the houris. Here the myrtle and the pome- granate, the iig-tree and the citron, the olive and the vine gi'ew in wild luxu- riance ; the lofty sierra screened the city from the icy north, and tlie town rose on a heiglit, like a throne of splen- dour, canopied by that deep, turquoise, spotless sk>- of Spain (which really seems like a reversed Mediterranean!, 'so calm and soft, and beautifully blue, that God alone was to be seen in hea- ven.' — (Byron.) We hear little or nothing of Granada's destinies until the formation of tlie Ummeyah empire of Cordova, under the rule of which the city was enlarged and fortified. The Kadimh,h (or old fortress) was built about that time, and shortly before, the Kal'at Al-hamra, or red castle, was erected to oppose the inroads of the disaffected tribes. On the dis- solution and downfall of the Ummeyah dynasty (which was hastened by the death of its chief supporter, Al-Mans- soiir), the Mohammedan empire in Spain was broken up into numerous petty in- dependent kingdoms, ovtajtas. Granada then fell to the lot of its Berber, Wall Zawi Ibn Zeyri, who became its first king. The importance of Granada rose rapidly. Its palmiest days were under the Nazerite dynasty, which was founded by Ibu-1-Alimar, the builder of the Al- hambra palace. During his glorious, yet peaceful reign, it became the em- porium of the West, and, according to Arab authorities, boasted a population of 400,000 inhabitants, besides a garri- son of 00,000 soldiers. But civil strife (that usual Moslem germ of death and disunion) and petty personal jealousies amongst the governors of rival cities, together with the dilference of races between the tribes that composed the heterogeneous court, people, and ha- rem (that typical Camarilla), all has- tened the denouement of the stirring and poetic drama M'hich forms her his- tory, by seconding but too elTectually the plans of the wily and daring Chris- tian princes, whose coveloicsjicss a.nd per- sonal ambition went, as usual, by the more popular names of orthodoxy and patriotism. Tlie marriage of Eerdinand of Aragon with Ysabel of Castile sealed the fate of divided Granada by uniting LA GRANJA. 209 the resources of tlic nation ; and after a protracted siege, signalised by daily deeds of prowess on both sides, the city at last surrendered on June 2, 1492. On the morning of that day Boabdil, on the banks of the Genii, delivered up the keys of the Alhambra to Ferdinand and Isabella, the former of whom, ac- cording to Arab chronicles, compelled him to dismount and kiss his hand, and addressed him in very harsh terms. The standards of the Cross of Castile, Ara- pon, and Santiago waved on the shat- tered walls of the Alhambra, and thus ended the Mohammedan rule in Spain. Boabdil and his followers, after spend- ing some time in the Alpujarras, em- barked for Fez on board the very ships which had escorted Columbus on his second voyage to America, carrying with him his riches, which, though much dimini-shed, amounted to the then enormous sum of 9,000,000 maravedis. Not long after his arrival in iforocco, where he had met with a hospitable and honourable welcome, he lost his life in a battle fought on behalf of his ally, thus dying for a cause which was not his own, whilst he had cowardly de- serted the interests of his tlirone. GRAN J A (LA). Koutes and Conv. — From Madrid by the northern (Segovia branch) rail- way as far as Navas de Kio Frio, from which point 6 miles E. to La Granja. But the old coach route from Villalba Station should be taken if practicable - either by driving in five hours, or by walking — for the sake of the splendid scenery as one crosses the Puerto de Nava Cerrada, on the slope of the Peualara (8500 ft.), and then dives down by the Siete Vueltas to the village of Balsain. From Novem- ber to February, however, the road is blocked with snow, and La Granja must be ai)proached from Navas or Segovia (frequent coaches from Segovia, fare pes. L50). There is also a picturesque summer route from the Escorial over the Guadarrama range. N.B. — The fountains only play on great holidays : Jan. 23, May aO, July 24, Aug. 25, Sept. 11 and 24. Inn. — Hotel Europeo ; good. General Description. — La Granja (the Grange), also called San Ildefonso, is a Sitio Real. 2 m. from tliis stood formerly the Palace of Valsain, which Philip IL had embellished, now a ruin. Philip v., who liked the surrounding country, decided on building a palace, which, as usual, was not only to equal, but to eclipse Versailles. La Granja, situated 3840 ft. above the sea, abun- dant in water and ti'ces, appeared to him a suitable site. This grange or farm-house was therefore purchased from the Segovian monks of El Parral. The works were begun in 1719, and completed in 1746. The architects emi)loyed were Jubarra, Sachetti, Du- mandre, Thierry, etc. But, as often happens, when this golden cage was ready, Philip V. died (1746), not with- out having, however, sojourned in it for some months. Charles III. built the village, and made several important additions to it. Every year the court removes to this palace when the heat and tercianas begin at Aranjuez, and usually remains July, Augu.st, and September. Palace. — The prmcipal fagadc looks towards the gardens. The central apartments are inhabited by the royal family, and in the wings the household arc lodged. The modem apartments are airy and cheerfid, well furnished, but without magnificence. In the lower floor there is a good collection of 210 JEREZ. statues and antiquities, wliicli was formed by the celebrated Queen Chris- tina of Sweden ; but tlie best paintings and marbles have been removed to the Madrid Museum. The Colegiata, or Chapel Koyal, was designed by Ai-de- man ; it is in nowise remarkable. The ceilings and domes are by Bayeu, Maella, and other mediocrities. ObserA-e the fine jaspers which compose the retablo, the fine lapis lazuli tabernacle, the tombs of Philip Y. and his queen Isabella Farnese (poor French work), and, especi- ally, the splendidly embroidered vest- ments and the mantles of theYirgiu. The Gardens ai'e, however, the great attrac- tion here. They are certainly the finest in Spain, and held by Spaniards as very superior to those of YersaUles. Observe tlie Cascade Cc^iador, a grand sheet of falling water, which glitters gloriously in the sun. There are twenty-six foun- tains, many of them very remarkable ; the principal are Fuente de las Eanas (or the frogs) ; a series of cascatels, called La Carrera de Caballos ; El Canastillo, a large corbeille of flowers and fruits from which the water spouts en gerbc, forty jets in number, and rises to 75 ft. That of the Fama reaches 130 ft., and the Bancs de Diana is an admirable mythological scene, before which the never -would -be -amused Philip Y. stopped for a moment when it was completed. ' It has cost me,' he said, 'three millions, but for three minutes I have been amused ! ' The statues most admired are Apollo^ Daphne, Lucrctia, BacdiU-s, America^ etc. The usual labyrhith, Swiss hills, etc., commonly seen in every royal gar- den, are also here. The reservado, oi private gaidens, which contain indiflei- eut conservatories and a fine orchard, El FoLosi, requii'c a special 2}a.peleta. Excursions can be made to ElFaular, riding by the Revenlon, a pass from which a good view is obtained of the Peualara and surrounding mountains. El Paular, once a wealthy Carthusian convent, is now scai'cely worth seeing, as it has been seriously injured, used as a glass - manufactory etc. , and the paintings removed to the Madrid Miisco. It was erected by Juan I. of Castile. The church dates middle of the 15th century. The Capilla de los Eeyes is the work of Alfonso Fiodrigo, 1390. The ceilings were painted hy Palomino. There are two or three fine tombs. Close by is also the iudifi'erent villa of Queen Christina, called Quita Pcsares. Six mUes off is the small unfinished palace of Eio Frio, which was begun by the widowed queen of Philij) Y. The boar -hunting is first-rate, and fi-equently enjoyed by the Court. Books of Reference. — 1. * Com- pendio historico, topog., etc., de los Jardines y Fuentes del real Sitio de San Ildefonso,' by Sedeno ; Madrid, A. Mar- tinez, 1825, 8vo. 'Guia y descrijicion del Real Sitio de San Ildefonso,' Bre- tanos and Castellarnau ; Madrid, 1SS4. JEREZ (;■ Hotels. — Fonda de los Cisnes, in the Calle Larga, very good, Fonda de Jerez, Calle de las Naranjas, fair. Restaurants at the hotels. Tram from station to Plaza Alfonso XII., 15 c. Casino. — In CaUe Larga. English papers taken in. Post-Ojiice. — In the Calle de Corre- dera. Tcle^aph Office. — Calle Medina. rem., MEREZ). British Vice-Ccmsulate and U.S.A. Consular Agency. Bull-ring. — Fights begin in ilay. Eoutes. — From Sei-illc, by rail, 3 hi-s. From Cadiz, by rail, 1^ hr. ; dis. 30 J m. ; stations, San Fernando, Puerta Keal, Puerta Sta. Maria, through a rich wine-growing country, studded with gay-looking whitewashed caserios. JEREZ. 211 From Gibraltar. A wild ride of 174 leagues across pictui-csque scenery. Itinerary. Leagues. Gibraltar San Koque to la Polvorilla . 3J Alcald do los (Jazules (sleep here) . . . . .4 Paleriia 5 Jerez 5 (60 miles.) 17J Alcald de los Gazules. — A decent posada ; 8827 inhabitants, close to the Barbate. It was a small lloman town fortiiied by the Arabs, and ■which be- came the appanage and sti-onghold of the puis.iant family of the Gaziiles, whence its name, Al Icabat, the fortress of the Gazules. The castle was blo^vn \ip by the French in 1811. The old town was perched, so to speak, on a lofty hill surrounded by smaller cerros ; nothing remains of it save portions of its walls and the gates called Nucva and De la Villa. The new or present town stands on the slopes of the Cerro de los Arcos, embosomed amid vines. The city contains vestiges, none of great importance, of the 15th and 16th cen- tiuies. In its plaza, once de San Jorge, now de la Constitucion, is the old Par- roquia. It preserves only an ogival portal, with pretty statuettes of the 15th century, when it was built ; all the interior is classical, with precious mar- bles and fine black jasper of Pcna Jarpa. Tlie belfry, some ISO ft. high, is bmlt of brick and cro\vned with ex- quisite azulejo work. The large Domi- nican convent de las Sagrad;is Llagas, which the Marques de Tarifa founded, has been turned into barracks and stores. Patema. — Formerly an appanage of the Duques de Alcala. Here are crossed some heights which divide this .small hamlet from the Cuenca of the Guad- alele, the celebrated Cartuja of Jerez ia left to the right, and in the distance, and through the corlijos, ranchos, de- hcsas, all things of semi-African Anda- lusia, we descry Jerez, one of the pret- tiest Andalusian cities. From Honda, riding, 16 leagues. A heavy ride across the Serrania do Ronda, but which can be performed with all safety. Itinerary. Ronda to Grazalema El Bosque Arcos (sleep here) Jerez Leagues. 3 • 3 • 5 ■ S (50 miles. ) 16 Leave Ronda at 6 A. M., bait the horses and breakf;xst at El Bosque at 10 A.M., and get into i\xcos at about 5.30 P.M. General Description. — Jerez de la Frontera, so called to distinguish from Jerez de los Caballeros, is a pleasantly situated, sunny, busy, tidy town. It belongs to the province of Cadiz, and has a population of 55,000 souls. The houses are all whitewashed or gaily painted, with elegant miradores, charm- ing cool patios, and so clean and fresh that they appear but just built. There is a pretty plaza Avith stone seats all round, and stately palms wavijig their green plumage and golden fruit in the air. There is great couleur locale about the houses and the people, who seem to have retained — more than any other Andalusian province — all the softness of manner, the gentleman-like bearing, the gracefxU mien and atti- tudes and refinement of the Moora The great wine (chiefly sherry) in- dustry, in all its ramifications, forms of course the principal interest of I the place ; but besides the palace- like bodegas, the abode of King Sherry, there are some sights which deserve the tourist's attention — 212 JEREZ. such as the Alcazar, Cathedral, Church of San Miguel, and la Cartuja ; but all these, and the renowned bodegas, can be easily seen in a day, by commencing early, and returning late to Cadiz or proceeding to Seville. Historical Wotice. — Jerez was one of the earliest Phcenician colonies in Spain, the 'Asidoquaj Csesarina' of Pliny, and not the Persian Chiraz as many authors have erroneously asserted. The name Xerez Sidonia is found on Latin charts of the 13th and 14th centuries, Asidona being a corruption of Asido. The Mussulmans turned Ocesaris Asi- dona into Cffiris Sidonia, abbreviating it finally to Cieris alone. [For an account of this and of the first campaign of the Moors, see D. Eduardo Saavedra's 'Estudios sobre la Invasion delosArabes en Espana,' Madrid, 1893.] Close to it took place the battle of the Guadalete which opened Spain to the invading Moor. Ferdinand III., el Santo, recovered it in 1251, but it was retaken by the Moors, to be regained 1264 by Alfonso the Learned, who granted to it many im- portant privileges, and peopled it with forty hidalgos, the souche of the present Jerezaua nobility. Fortifyingit consider- ably, he styled it the frontier keep of An- dalusin, -whence its name, de la Frontera. In the municipal archives of the town there still exists the original chart of grant signed by this wise and learned king. To the forty gentlemen who be- came his vassals, he grants to hold in feud, 'houses, six arauzadas of vine- yards ; two of hucrta ; fifteen of olive grounds, six aranzadas of carefully plant- ed vines, six yugadas (the extent which twelve bullocks can plough in a day) for corn, and besides 200 maravedis of the king's privy purse. ' Sights. — The Alcazar. — This pictur- esque old palatial fortress, which has been the scene of so many lieroic deeds, melancholy confinements, and amorous scenes, looks as if it had been but just finislied, for tlie soft climate of Anda- lusia preserves monuments in all their pristine state. Close by is the Fortuna de Torre promenade, and from the plat- forms of its Torre del Homenage and the octagonal tower to the left, the views extend over its own gardens, and an horizon formed by Sierras richly tinted with green and purple hues, and worthy of a Caspar Poussin or a Claude de Lorraine. Its chapel is small and circular, and was founded by Alfonso the Learned. This palace, the property of the youthful Duke of San Lorenzo, has been recently repaired. Tlie Salon del Trono and patios are all that attract any notice. (Catljtbral. — The Colegiata was begun in 1695, and was completed by Cayon, the architect of the Cathedral of Seville. It is a good (!) specimen of churriguer- esque. The interior is large, spacious, lofty, but in pseudo-classical bad taste. Attached to the cathedral is a good library and monetario collected by the Bishop of Siguenza, Diaz de la Gucrra, a native of Jerez. San Miguel. — Its fa9ade is of bastard Grseco-Roman, a mask hiding a former plain but not inelegant ogival mediteval front ; there are Berninesque pillars, statues, and details in questionable taste. The lateral portals have retain- ed exquisite portions of the Gothic period. The Sagrario is a Corinthian chapel, also indiiferent. The interior is very elegant, and were it carefully re- pahed, would be most striking. It be longs to the period of decline, when it was built (1482). It consists of three naves divided by massive pillars, from whose plain and elegant capitals the ogival arches of the lateral naves spring, not without boldness, and wliich sup- port the grcTups of sliafts or rods in wliich the roof of tlic centre nave rests. Tlie piers of the transept are highei IKKEZ. 213 than tlie rest, composed of bundles of shafts and elaborately ornamented with foliage, niche-work, and mouldings. The transept is most profusely orna- mented ; the lines and details are com- plicated, and the roof, pillars, arches, etc. , are exuberantly loaded with tracery and net-work. Roberts' picture of this transept, though poetised, conve3's a just idea of the effect produced. Ob- serve in the presbytery of high altar, not the three orders adapted by igno- rant restauradores to the original Gothic, but the excellent bassi-relievT by Mon- tanes, and representing Annunciation, Nativitj', Adoration, Circumcision, Transfiguration, our Lord in Limbo, and St. Michael, for which he received 8200 ducats. It dates about 1625. All the conditions of the contract between him and the chuich, with the detailed description of the relievos, how they were to be executed, etc., and other niuious information respecting this fine retablo, may be found in the archives of this church. The portals inside are elegantly designed ; observe that of Capilla del Bautismo. The altar and small Chapel de las Animas has a re- tablo of the most extiavagant painted sculpture representing the souls of pur- gatory, en persanne, with St. Michael above, and on left St. Peter holding the keys. Upon the reja which rails it in, and at intervals, are placed five wooden skulls, all crowned, one with a tiara, a second with a kingly crown, a thii-d with a Cardinalate barretta, etc. The Capilla del Sagrario is richly ornamented ; the windows are elegant, the folding doors by Berruquette : the Christ by ilontaiies. San Dionisio. — An exquisite and well-preserved example of the Moro- Gotliic style so prevalent in Alfonso el Sabio's time. The fa(^de reminds one of the earlier churches of Cordova and Seville. Observe the painted archivault of portal, with flat leaves on the exter- nal moulding, the projecting aleso mth dogs' heads, the agimez under the plain cii'cular windows, and the stone-built tower on left of the apse, and decorated with horseshoe agimeces and buttresses. The apse is likewise of stone, with mas- sive buttresses and middle - pointed windows decorated with delicate mould- ings and Byzantine capitals. The spouts of the gutters are fantastically shaped into varied forms of giotesque animals, peeping through the thick weeds and lichens, and produce a piicturesque efiect. Tliis, one of the finest, and, as we have already said, of the most perfect and well-preserved specimens of the Mudf- jar style in Spain, was built and dedi- cated to St. Dionysius (to whose inter- cession he considered he owed the taking of Jerez) by Alfonso the Learned, middle of 13th centuiy. Santiago was built in the time of the Catholic kings. Observe an exquisite ogival lateral fa9ade of the third period with good statues. The principal facade was awkwardly repaired and modernised in 1663. The interior is divided into three elegant naves by ogival arches resting on pillars, whose gilt capitals are in the shape of crowns. Wiiie-Cellars. — These Bacchus' pa- laces are the style of architecture which the Jerezanos admire most ; and palaces they truly are rather than cellars, as some of them consist of ten or twelve spacious naves, containing upwards of 15,000 hotas. They are shown to visitors on application to the proprietors or their principal clerks, daily, except Sunda}'s, and until 2 P.M. All the different i)ro- cesses practised here can be followed in some minutes, from the pressing of the grape to bottling ready for exportation. Of the bodegas, those of the Marques de Misa are the largest, of Seiior Domecq the oldest. Other well-known names are Gonzalez, Byass & Co., and 214 JEREZ. Gordon and Riiniirez. Tlio wine is not sold on the spot, nor are orders for England received, as this would be a detriment to the merchants' English agents ; besides which the prices really differ little, whether purchased in England, or at the bodega, and to be shipped afterwards. The ditferent sorts of wine are generously offered to taste ; and the best qualities are left for the last. At Seiior Domecq's (founded 1730) sec the monster casks 'Napoleon,' 'Wellington,' Titt,' etc., also taste the exquisite cognacs (a Doniecq specialty). See also Messrs. Cxonzalez and Co. 's model bodega. (For particu- lars of the sherry manufacture and trade cf. 'Sherryaua,' by F. W. C, London, 18S7.) The Cartuja. — Three miles from Je- rez, twenty-five min. drive in a calesa. A good carretela may be also procured for from 25r. to 30r. (G shillings) there and back. Close to this old Carthusian convent rolls the Guadalete, the Chrysos of the Greeks and Eomans, from its yellow waters ; the Arab's river of delight, Wid-al-leded. On its banks the celebrated battle was fought, Jidy '2C, 711, between the disorganised ef- feminate army of Don Eodi'igo and the Berber undisciplined but wiry bold tribes of Tarik and iloussa. The car- tuja was founded in 1477, by Don Alvafo Obertos de Valeto, who is buried here, and died 1482. The plater- esque portions were executed in the middle of the IGth century. The prin- cipal fayade was the work of Andres de liibera, 1571. Four large fluted Doric pillars flunk the superb circular arched portal. The niches are fdled with statues of the Virgin, St. Bruno, and St. Austin. Over the cornice is a front with efiigy of God the Father. This portal leads to a spacious patio, in which is the bastard Corinthian fa(^e of the church, dating 1667, and over-ornamented with details and indif- ferent statues of saints. There are three patios or cloisters within, the principal of which is classical, and with twenty-four white marble pillars. The second is a claustrillo, with four plain pillars and delicate Byzantine leaf- work on the capitals. It belongs to the Gothic of decline as well as the third period. Little remains here now, save the empty cells, an old cross, and some cypresses, of what was once the wealthiest monastery in this part of the world, a repository' of arts and a school of learned and wise men, who were first-rate farmers and the most celebrated horse- breeders in Andalusia. Most of its finest Zurbarans were, at the suppression of the convent, sent to France and Eng- land, and have been sold for a song at the sales of Louis Philippe's and Mr. Standish's collections in 1853 ; the rest were removed to and are now at the Cadiz Picture Gallery (Museo). The Yeguada, or breeiliug stables, were sup- pressed in 1836, and the vmeyards sold. In the distance, near La Cartuja, rises a small hill. El Real (the camp) de Don Piodrigo, where this ill-fated monarch had his head-quarters during the battle. Areas de la Froiitera (5 leagues), 15,203 inhabitants. A good posada outside the town on the Jerez road. This ancient city rises picturesquely on the S.E. slopes of a huge Mons-Serralus, whose base is watered by the Guadalete, which girdles almost all the town, and is joined amid its fertile plains by the Majaceite. The view ol the distant blue hills of the Sierra blending with the sky is charming from its high Plaza del Ayuntamicnto. It was recovered from the Moors in 1234 by the Infante D. Enrique, son of St. Ferdinand. It fell again into the hands of the Moors, and was finally recovered and peopled by Alfonso el Sabio in 1264. It was the Arco Briga of the Iberians, and Arc! Colonia of the Romans. Its important position as the key of the Seville and Ronda regions on that side caused it to be called lie la FroK- tcra, which, moreover, distinguishes it fron' LKON. 215 several other arcos. Ecclcsiolog^sts will notice the San I'edro Church, which contains one of the finest retablos of the 15th century in all Andalusia. Its compartments represent scenes from the life and martyrdom of tlie tutelar. The church, which dates of 15th cen- tury, has been vilely modernised. That of Sta. Maria is a fine e.\ample of the Gothic of the time of the Catholic kings, but is unfinished. Observe its magnificent portal ; its lintel, tym- panum with statuettes and niche work. The interior is divided into three naves. The lateral one very narrow, and as high a.s the central. The columns elegant and plain. The details round the window very curious, and many most elegant. Observe aLso the exqui- site plain Gothic portal of the house of Conde del Aguila, and its charming Moro-Gothic agimez window. There is a decent posada at El Bosque (10 leagues). Between its termino and that of Prado del Rey is the abundant source of water which turns into excellent salt, and is called Salinas de Hortales. Grazalema (13 leagues). — Posada de la Trinidad; 7549 inhabitants. It was one of the feats of the esforzado Rodrigo Ponce de Leon to capture this then important stronghold — the ' Lacidulia' of the Romans. It stands on a rocky hill. LEON (Province of). Geographical. — The fomier Reixio de Leon has been divided into the five present provinces of Salamanca, pop. 2G2,38.3 ; Leon, pop. 340,244 ; Vallado- lid, pop. 246,981 ; Palencia, 185,955 ; and Zaniora, pop. 248,502 ; total, 1,284,065. The extent comprised by them is some 20,000 square miles. It is bounded on the N. by the Montes de Leon, a ramification or branch of the SieiTa de Asturias ; on the E. by the plains of Castilla la Vieja, Sierras de Oca, de Urbiad, on the S. by the Sierra de Gata, de Franeia (5202 ft. above the level of the sea), Sierra de Avilla, which separates it from Estremadura and Castile ; and on the W. by the Sierra de Porto, Portugal, an) The ascent of Monte Igueldo, on the W. side of the bay. Very fine views from the summit, (c) By dil., rail or carriage to Zarauz and Azpeitia (see p. 65), the latter both for the sake of the old Basque town and the Loyola monastery and Casa. Frequent steamers from San Sebastian to Bayonne, Bilbao and Santander. Dil. daily to Zarauz, Bilbao, Cestona, Vergara, Azpeitia, etc. The railway now ascends very gra- dually, winding its way through the 7alley of the Urumea, a Swiss-like re- gion ; then follows the course of the Aria, and reaches Tolosa. — On the Aria and Arages. Pop. 9000. In a valley formed by the Ernio and Loazu hills. A small, in- differently-built Basque town. The Church of Sta. Maria contains good specimens of the marbles found in the vicinity, some cloth and paper manufactures. A pretty Paseo de Igar- rondo. Alsasua. — About 35 miles from To- losa ; is the junction for Pamplona and Zaragoza. Vitoria, — Capital of Pro v. of Alava. Uotel : De Pallares. Pop. 2.5,700. The ancient Beturiu, a heiyht in Basque. The town is divided into the old Suso, and the new portion. It is a pleasant, gay, and thriving provincial town, with a healthy climate and .some charm- ing promenades, especially the Florida, at the foot of which the station is placed. The Prado is another paseo, and during the winter the arcades of La Plaza Nueva. The Colerjiata dates 1150, but has been altered. The Go- thic arches are striking. The Chapel de Santiago contains some interesting tombs. In the sacristy may be noticed a fine Piedad, ascribed to Murillo. In the Church of San Miguel, obsen'e the high altar, which is the work of Juan Velasquez (not the great man) and Greg. Hernandez, one of the best Span- ish sculptors. The Battle of Vitcnna, a celebrated English victory, took place in the vi- cinity, on the opposite side of the town, June 1813, between the British forces under the Duke of Wellington, and the French army commanded by Joseph Bonaparte and Jourdan, which ended in the total rout of the latter, who fled in disorder — Joseph (Pape BoteUa, as the Spaniards nicknamed the tottle- loving king) riding a mule, and leaving his magnificent collection of pictures to the victorious duke. The plunder amounted to 5, 000, 000 dols. The battle of Vitoria led to the expulsion of the French from Spain. Miranda de Ebro is the first Castil- ian town we meet. Excellent buffet. The Fonda de Guinea, close by the station, is good. The train soon alter crosses the ZadoiTa and Ebro, follows the course of tlie Oroncillo, and enters the grand, stern, wild, Salvator-Eosascenery of the gorges of Pancorbo. The ruins on the heights are those of a fort called de Sta. Engraeia, which was taken and destroyed in 1823 by a French division under Prince de Hohcnlolie ; and also 248 MADRID — ROUTES. of a castle to which, according to tra- dition, Pioderik, tlie last of the Gotlis, carried the fair La Cava, for whose sake he lost his sceptre and his life. On leaving these rocky chasms and bound- ing torrents, a tunnel is entered and Burgos reached. (See Burgos.) Now several rivers are rapidly crossed — the Carrion, Pisuerga, Uuero, Es- queva, etc., all entering the valleys of Arlanzon and Valladolid. Venta de Bancs. — Here a line branches to Santander, by Palencia, Alar, and Reinosa. Valladolid (which see). An im- portant station for the N. line, and where all its materiel is kept and made and repaired. On leaving it the Duero is crossed, and then the Adaja follows a S.W. direction, and crosses the Za- pardiel at Medina del Campo. — Inns poor, but good buffet and sleeping accommo- dation at the station. Change here for Salamanca, Zamora, and Sego^aa. On leaving Medina the Duero is crossed again, and at Arevalo the Adaja, on a fine stone viaduct of four arches. Arevalo is a miserable village, 2200 souls ; the palace, whose rums we see, has nevertheless been the resi- dence of Queen Isabella, Charles V., Philip II., etc. Avila (which .see). Amid rich val- leys, marble-pregnant hills, and oak and pine forests. The train now ascends pretty steep inclines, seldom exceeding in speed 15 miles an hour. This portion is among the finest and costliest works of the company, owing to the broken-up con- figm-ation of the countrj'. Thu.s, the tunnel of Navalgrande is 2983.3 f^^t long, and 2520 ft. above the sea. The soil has been brought and accumulated to 146 ft. At Las Navas del llarques are crossed very extensive pine-forests, the property of the Duke de Medina- celi, and 10 m. long. The famous Ee corial is left a little to the left. (See Escorial.) Another tunnel passed, 812 ft. long, the Manzanare."5 crossed, por- tions of the royal pleasure-grounds of El Pardo and Montana del Principe Pio traversed, and in the distance, nearing fast, Madrid appears before us, the royal palace crowning the height in front. On leaving the train we ascend to the town by the steep hiE and gate de San Vicente. Cabs and omnibuses in attendance. (See Madrid.) B. Zaragoza and Guadalajara. — By Bayonne to Alsasua, a station on Madrid and Burgos Railway. Time 5 hrs. 30 m. Change carriages ; take up the Pam- plona railway from Alsasua to Zaragoza by Pamplona, by rail direct; time, 2 Jirs from Alsasua to Pamplona, and from latter to Zaragoza, time 6 hrs. 30 m.; Zaragoza to i\ladrid, time 10 hrs. 30 m. Total — Bayonne to Madrid — time 24 hrs. As seen above, this is not the most di- rect route of the two. (For description oi Zaragoza, see that name.) This section of the Norte railway- is well managed, but the buffets are in- ferior to those of the Burgos line. It passes, however, by the interesting cities of Pamplona, Tudela, Calatayud, Sigiienza and Guadalajara, from all ol which points fine excursions can be made. Description of Route. — The railway crosses several very pretty valleys watered by the Borunda and other minor streams, and soon after Zuaste we reach Pamplona. — Capital of province of Navarre. Pop. about 29,000. Tans. — Fonda de la Perla, Plaza de la Constitucion, good ; Fonda Universal, Spanish, inferior. Cafes, Suizo, Marina, Iruua, in the Plaza, good. Bull-ring, Bull -lights in July and August, the ring holds 8000 persons. Baths, Paseo de la Taconcra. Post and Telegraph Offices, both in the Plaza. MAJ>RID — ROUTES (PAMPLONA). 249 The city stantls on tlie left bank of the Arga, on a height commanding the fertile plains around. It is fortified, and was always considered tlie frontier key of Spain on that side of the king- dom. The citadel in the S.W. part of the to^-n, and other works of defence, are constructed on the model of Ant- werp, and after Vauhan's princijiles ; it is strong, and can hold a garrison of 3000 men. The name of Pamplona is derived from Pompeiopolis, or Pompey's city, which he is said to have founded in commemoration of his victories over Sertorius. Sancho Abarca fi.\ed his court here, and it became the capital of the kingdom of Navarre. The kings of France long ruled over it in conse(iucnce of the marriage of Phillipe le Bel with Doua Juana. His granddaughter was married here to the Count de Cliam- pagne, and succeeded to the crown ; here also their coronations took place, and the event was celebrated with tour- naments, bull-fights, and dances. To complete the festivities, and offer a novel spectacle pleasant to the princes, no less than 10,000 Jews, it is said, were assembled and burnt alive in the square ; the human bonfire (adds ex- ultingly a chronicler of the time) could be seen for miles and miles distant. During a siege of the town by the French under Andre de Foix (1521), Ignacio de Loyola, the founder of the Jesuits, was wounded, and it was dur- ing his convalescence that he planned the rules whicli were to govern his semi- military order. A small chapel, chur- rigueresque and indifferent, raised long afterwards to his memory, is situated near the promenade, and behind the Palacio de la Diputacion. Bonaparte, February 1808, sent d'Armagnac to Pamplona, under the guise of an alli- ance with Charles IV., when the Spa- nish authorities were weak enough to serve out rations to their friends in the citadel. Thereupon, soon after their arrival, some French grenadiers, under the pretence of playing at snowballs, secured the drawbridge, and took pos- session of tiie town ; but after the battle of Vitoria, the Duke of Wellington blockaded the town, and, notwith- standing Soult's desperate efforts to re- lieve it, entered it after a short resist- ance (1813). Sights. — UTIje iCatf)cJraI, built by Charles the Noble, 1397, on the ruins of a former, which dated from 1100, and of which several portions remain ii; two niches in the cloisters. Observe, amongst others, the very richly orna- mented capitals, which decorated the principal portal. The edifice is not large, but offers here and there some good specimens of light Gothic. The Grgeco - Roman principal entrance was put up by Ventura Rodriguez, 1783, and, though out of keeping with the rest, is of very good style, and eli'ective, The interior is simple, and divided into three naves. The choir -stalls are by Miguel de Ancheta, 1530. They form two tiers, and number fifty-six richly- carved sillas above, and forty-four be- low, all very elaborately carved, with semi-relievos representing saints, patri- archs, and prophets. The reja is a fine example of cinque-cento. On en- tering the choir, and in the centre, are the tombs of the founder and his queen ; on the cushion are the words ' bonne foy, bonne foy.' At the king's feet is a lion, and at the queen's two dogs. The door which leads into the cloister is of the end of the 14th century. Ob- serve the well-sculptured scenes from the life of the Virgui. Sala Prcciosa, where the Cortes of Navarre formerly met. There is a fine tomb, with an equestrian statue of Conde Gages. Chapel de Sta. Cruz, a fine reja made with the chains taken at the battle o' 250 MADRID — ROUTES. Las Navas de Tolosa. Tlic cloisters are light and elegant. Relics in Sacristy, at N. E. corner. This is really the only sight, and the mansion-house, citadel, and other churches are devoid of interest. A theatre, casino, and bull-ring. La Taconira is the fashionable promenade, and the view from it of the valley and mountains is extensive and fine. This 'muy noble y niuy leal ' cit}' has been a focus of civil war, holding out staunchly against Don Carlos. The place should be visited on the Feast of St, Fermin, Sept. 25. Excursions. —To Lo^roflo, 48 m. : daily dil. by Puente de la Reina (Convent of San Juan del Cnicifijo) and Estella. (Residence of Don Carlos in 1835 ; old Alcazar ; fine Romanesque Church of San Pedro : 2 m. off Benedictine Monastery of Ihrache, with well restored Early Pointed church.) To Soria. — Rail to Alfaro, and then dil. Look here for several 12th and 13th century buildings. See also Santo Domingo, San Pedro, and the Convent of .San Juan. Visit (5 m.) the ruins of the heroically famous Numantia. To Tudela (indifferent Fonda de la Union). — Rail in a,\ hrs. Magnificent Transition cathedral, Church of Santa Maria (note especi- ally sculpturing and cloisters), Church of La Magdalena. To Tarazona and Venicla.~KA\\ from Tudela in I hr. At former, fine 13th century cathedral, with very remarkable i6th century brick cloisters. Churches of La Magdalena and San Miguel. At Veruela a Cistercian abbey, with Romanesque and Early Pointed church and cloister. \N.B. — Ecclesiologists should on no account omit these e.xcursions.) Calatayud.— (Kalat-Ayub, Castle of Ayub.) Most important city of Ara- gon after Zaragoza. Pop. 11,000. Fonda de la Campana, fair. Birth- place of Martial. Close by stood once the city of Bilbilis. Municepe.s, Augusta mihi quos Bilbilis acri Monte creat, rapidis quem Sale cingit aquis ; Martial. Spared for some time by the Moor, it was finally destroyed by him ; and a new city built near it by Ayub, whence its present name. It was captured, 1120, by Alfonso el Batallador, and be- CAme an important strategical position, the scene of several sieges. It ia gloomy, dull, but preserves still much of the stern, massive, Aragonese charac- ter. The churches, though numerous, are devoid of interest ; and, though dating from early periods, such as the Colegiata de Sta. Maria la Mayor (1249), have been altered and disfigured. The Moreria, or former floors' quarter, is in the upper portion, the oldest of the town, and mostly composed of excava- tions in the rock, where dwell the poorer classes. These mazniorras date from the time of the Moors, and are seen in many parts of Spain, and at Granada especially. They deserve the artist's visit, as misery is most pictur- esijuely clad in Spain, and the groups, attitudes, etc., of the inmates full of character. The rail, on leaving Calatajoid, fol- lows the course of the Jalon, and crosses its pleasant valley. A tunnel, 2923 ft. long, is ti-aversed, and we enter the val- ley of the Henares ; the scenery becomes wild and picturesque, and cultivation is rare ; we cro.'is tlie river Henares, by following which we arrive at Siguenza. — Prov. of Guadalajara, 4700 inhab, ; bishop's see, suffragan of Toledo. Seldom visited. Inn : Fonda at the station ; fair. It is built on the slopes of a lofty knoll, bathed on the E. side by the Henares. Tho massive walls and former gates still exist, sombre, and flanked by tuiTcts. On the highest point of the city stands the imposing castle, the residence now of the bishop. The streets are narrow, winding, steep, and ill paved ; but there breathes still about the old city an air of grandeur, antiquity, and strength, which throws over it a melancholy not destitute of charm. Observe the very early houses around San Vicente, some Byzantine even ; and in Plaza de la Catedral, several others of the plater- esque and Gothic styles. MADRID — ROUTES (SIGUENZAt. 251 Sights. — Tlie great sight is the Cathedral. This castellated church stands between two plazas, on the slopes of a hill. The faijade is flanked hy two lofty massive towers, with buttresses terminated by balls ; that of the left was erected by Bishop Don Fadrique, of Portugal (1533). Two substantial and lofty salient buttresses enclose the central portal, and on each side, between them and the towers, is a portal, witli a window over it, circular, and witli rich Byzantine details. The central consists of a glorious rose-A\indow, with small pillars radiating from the central circle. The portals are all circular ; the central is deeply recessed ; they are decorated with sixteen columns, the sculpture of which has been destroyed, vestiges remaining only in that to the left. The medallion over the central portal represents the Virgin giving the casuUa (chasuble) to San Ildefonso ; it is modem and indifferent. The balustraded parapet crowningthe fa9ade, and connecting the towers, is in good style, and of 18th century. The railing which encloses the edifice all round is also modern. Tlie date of the erection is uncertain, probably from end of 12th to beginning of 13th century. The interior is plain and striking. The proportions are, 98 ft. high for the central nave, the lateral ones having only 63 ; the length, 313 ft; the width 112 ft It is divided into three noble naves, formed by ten massive piers, 50 ft. circumference. From these spring twenty small, slender, reed-like shafts, grouped in rows of three together, and with capitals consisting of wide leaves of the transition between Byzantine to Gothic. The windows, destitute of painted glass, are Byzantine in the lateral naves, and Gothic in the central one. The High Chapel begins at the transept. Its ingress is closed by an elegant reja. At each side is an ala- baster pulpit, with figures. That on the side of the epistle is Gotliic ; the one on the side of the gospel, plateresque. Tliis chapel was founded by Bishop Jlendoza, and dates, therefore, during the decUne of Gothic. Several tombs on the sides. Among them, observe one with the recumbent effigy of BLshop Bernard, a Frenchman, and Primate of Toledo. There is also a fine one of Car- dinal Alfonso Carrillo (1420). Tlie ro- table was put up 1613, by Bishop Mateo lie Burgos. It is of the three orders, and with bassi-relievi representing scenes from the life of Christ. The statues of Faith, Hope, and Charity, are the most remarkable feature. The taber- nacle is churrigueresque. TIcc trascoro must be closely examined, as it is not only richly ornamented with marbles, but is a good specimen of the period when it was raised (1685). The image of Sta. Maria la ilayor is much vene- rated, but not by sculptors. The altar is decorated with Solomonic pillars of black marble, with bronze bases, and sculptured, all in bad tiiste, and of end of 17th century. Chapel of Sta. Catalina. — It was dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, a few years after his maiiyrdom, by Bishop Joceljai, who came to Spain with Queen Leonor, when a great many churches and chapels were raised to that saint throughout Castile. The portal is plateresque, by Vazquez de Sosa, and put up by a bishop of Cana- rias and Canario. It is a most exquisite work. Notice besides the excellent style of the tombs of this worthy prelate, Fernando de Arce, who died 1522, and that of his brother. The altar is chiu-- rigueresque, but the former one, with a fine Florentine pictui'e of the cruci- fixion, may be seen in the sacristia. Visit also the Chapel de San Francisco Xavier, its tombs and crucifix ; the tomb and colossal efli^^ of Bishop 252 MADRID — ROUTES. Lvijan (ob. 1405), near the baptismal font ; the excellent portals of tJhapels de San Marcos and La Anniinciacion, which contain a Gothic retablo and plateresque tomb ; tlie altar of Sta. Librada, who was one of nine saints, sisters, all bom at tlu same time. These darlings, a blessing for any father, had nine amas (nTirses), and de- served, say the pious liistorians, palms of nine martyrdoms. Pope Innocent IV. (1243, 1251), in two different bulls of those dates, mentions the fact, and enhances the miracles performed by this the eldest of tliat holy family, whose body was brought here from Asturias. The indifferent retablo dates 1498-1511. The sacristia, also called the sagi-ario, is the work of Alfonso de Covarrubias. Observe the ceiling decorated with busts of old men, fair virgins, and grotesque buffoons. The Chapel de las Reliquias lias an ochavada (octagonal) cupola full of sculpturing. The cliurch plate, which the French did not carry away, is fine and of value, but of little artistic merit. The present cloisters, elegant and plain, were built by Cardinal Car- vagal, 1507, on the site of the former ones, of which some curious slabs, etc., have been preserved ; some fine plater- esque portals. In the Sala Capitular de Inviemo ladies will do well to in- quire for some old and admirably- worked tapestry. A visit may also be made to the Jeronimite Colegio, foiinded 1488, where observe the classical cloisters and tomb of Bishop Eisova (ob. 1657). Two miles from the town is the village of Villavieja, on the site of Segoncia or Saguncia, founded by the fugitives from Saguntum. Guadalajara.— Capital of i)rovince of same name. Hotel: Fonda del Norte ; poor. Top. 10,000. Said to be the Arriaca of Antoninus, and the Caraca of Ptolemy and Plutarch (?) It is, at all events, a very ancient city, the Moors WadJi-1-ha-JarJih, the river of stones — was captured from them by the cele- brated companion of the Cid, Alvar Fanez de Minaya, and became the ap- panage of the Mendozas, ancestors of the Duke de Osuna, to whom most ol the town still belongs. These feudal lords possessed, in the 15th and 16th centuries, 800 villages and 90,000 vas- sals, and their pages were all titled gentlemen of Castile. Here died the celebrated Gran Cardenal de Kspana (11th January 1495), in the presence of the Catholic kings. Here, 1525, Francis I. resided some time on his way to his gaol at Madrid. He was much feted by the old gouty Duke del Infantado, and the reladon of the festivities is curious. The first day, buU-fights and jousts by the gentlemen of the ducal court ; tlie second, a beast-fight between tigers, lions, etc.; the third a tourna- ment. Some time afterwards, the French monarch challenged his host (1528), who asked advice and leave of Charles V. The king answered liim by letter not to accept the proposal. Philip II. despotically disposed of this city in favour of his aunt, the widow queen of France, and obliged the duke to abandon his palace. Here he was married to Isabella de Valois (1560). In 1714, Philip V. was also married here to Isabella Farnese ; Juan of Austria resided here ; and the widow of Charles II., Maria de Neubourg, breathed her la.st (1740). The Mendozas became ex- tinct in the 17th century, and their col- lateral branch, the dukes of Infantados, removed their residence to Madrid. Palace. — A visit should be paid to their palace, -which was begun by the second duke, and of the 15th century. It is in the Gotho-plateresque transi- tion style, with many vestiges of the Moorish taste. Observe the fa9ade and annorials — the row of Mooriab MADRID — ROUTES (CUENCA) 953 windows, agimeces, gi-eatly disfigured by modern coirinioii-place balconies. The square patio with two tiers of gal- leries, with sliields of the Mendozas and Lunas, flanked by griffins and large Alhambraic heraldic lions. It is very elegant and quaint. Read the inscrip- tion over the lower arches, which, after detailing with evident self-indulgence all the titles of the founder, finishes by Solomon's 'Todoes vanidud !' an incon- gruous humility on such an ostentatious mansion. The architects were Juan and his brother Enrique Guas, the same who designed the San Juan de los Reyes at Toledo. What a difference between this bastardised platerc^sque and the pure undefiled style of the church ! Visit the long Guarda Muebles; observe here the huge chimney and artesonado Sala de Linages is the finest room here. Notice the stalactite gilt roof, escut- cheons, and busts. The thu'd duke, a very pious man, turned it into a chapel, and his singers and chaplains are men- tioned in Navagiero. On Corpus Day he solemnised the festivity by proces- •sions, dances, masquerades, bull-fights, 'en honra del Santisimo Sacramento,' as Alvar Munez de Castro has it in his ' Hist, de Guadalajara. ' Visit also San Francisco, rebuilt 1393, and iliePanteon of the Meudozas, begun 1696, finished 1720 ; the tombs, once among the finest in the world, were barbarously mutilated by the French. The former solar of the Meudozas, now a carrol, is in Pla- zuela de Sta. Maria. Here the great cardinal died. There are few other sights. The town hall, of 1585, was altered in 1716. The Colegio de In- genieros is indifferent. Shortly after quitting this town we cross the Jarama on a fine bridge, then the Abronigal torrent (arroyo), and reach Madrid, which we enter by the Trado and Calle de Alcala of San Geronimo or Atoclia. Another route by road.— I'here is an old and practically disused diligence route from Alfaro to Sigueiiza, passing through Soria. We have followed it more than once, however, and can testify tliat there is nothing either in scenery or towns to repay for the jolting and general" discomfort. The only advantage is that one may tlius visit Soria en route, and save tlie excursion from Pamplona. N.B. — The best plan for visiting carefully the cities referred to above is as follows :—■ Give a few hours only to Guadalajara in pass- ing, and so avoid the poor fonda. Sleep at Calatayud, and from thence go on to Tudela, where stay at least two days. (In that case inquire for a casa de hu^spedes close by the Konda de la Union, and more comfortable. From Tudela visit Tarazona (rail), and V'eruela (driving or riding). Then go on to Pamplona, stopping on the way to look at Olile and Ta- falla. From Valencia* vid Cuenca by road and rail. Rail as far as Utiel ; two trains daily. Also from Cuenca to Madrid, vi& Aranjuez. The princi- pal places of interest passed on the way are: — Requena (14,000 inhab.), Miu- glanilla, (2500 inhab. ; mine of very [lure rock-salt, worked since the time of the Romans, but now stopped), Cuenca and Tarancon. Cuenca. — Pop. 8000 ; capital of pro- vince of same name (N. Castile). Hotels. — De Madrid, fair, 7A pes. ; De Comercio. Most picturesquely situated on the steep slopes of a large knoll, or loma, between the deep beds of the Jucar and the Huescar, which wash its base. The city, seen from below, rises with its clusters of houses like an amphitheatre. The name Cuenca is derived from a shell [concha), say some etymologists. The place is old- fashioned to the last degree, and no comfort is to be expected. Yet it is well worth visiting alike for its his- torical interest (for the great names to which it has given birth, and as having * Note. — Routes from Valencia by Rail, see page 255. 254 MADRID— ROUTES. been a liead-quarlers of the Great Iii- quisiticii and of Jewish persecntioiis) and for the beauty of its natural sur- roundings. Among these Latter must not be neglected the fontastic groups of stones, well styled the Ciudad En- caiitada, and the picturesque scenery on the Jucar river, rich in spoil for hunter, botanist and anttler. The best-known ' Cuenquenccs Ilustres ' (see D. Fermin Caballero's Biogralias) have been the great !Meiidoza, Gil Albornoz, the artists Becerril, Yanez, and Mora, and the poet Figueroa. Besides the bishop's palace, the bridge of San I'ablo, and the Casas Solares of the Conquis- tadores, the chief sight is the Cathedral. — The square fayxde looks well from a distance. The edifice rises on a platform, and is ascended by an pscalinata or grees of stone. As to its style it is Gothic, save the crowning portion, which is of the I7th century. The church was built in the 13th cen- tury, on the site of a former mosque, and it has preserved its early Gothic style with some Byzantine vestiges here and there. The interior consists of the naves ; the central one, called de los Eeyes, is higher than the lateral ones. The arches are of a A^ery pointed stjde, the pillars massive, but the colouring and whitewash mar the effect which would otherwise be produced by the general plain majestic character of the whole. The dimensions are 312 feet long by 140 wide. The transept is effective. Observe the jiainted win- dows. As usual, the choir blocks up the central nave. The stalls have been sadly modernised. The organs and pulpits indifferent. The reja and lec- tern are fine specimens of the plater- esque, and masterpieces of Hernando de Arenas (1557). The present retablo is a medley of fine marbles, though much admired, and unworthy of its designer, Ventura Rodriguez. Among the chapels, observe the plateresque portal of that of Los Apostoles. Tht portal into the cloisters most berru- guete-like. The chapel de los Cabal- leros is of various periods. The plater- esque jiortal towards the transept is strangely crowned by an admirably - wrought stone skeleton, with inscrip- tions : ' De victus militibus mors tri- umpliat. ' ' Disrupta magna vetustaie restituta sit perpetuo.' The reja fine. The pictures in the retablo date 1525, and were painted by Hernando Yanez, a pupil, it is said of Kaphael. The Virgin and Child is the best. Among other sepulchres of the great Albornoz family, notice that of the great cardinal, and of his mother. The cloisters are in the Ilerrera st3dc, by Juan Andrea Eodi, 1577-83, of no great importance. The portal of St. Helena, and classical reja of that of San Juan, deserve notice. Among other old houses in this city, tourists must not fail to visit those in the Calle de Correduria. At Tahancon, 5000 inhabitants, the liianzares is crossed, which together with the name of the village were granted as titles to Muuoz, the second husband of Queen Christina. A little farther on the railway leaves the old direct dil. road to Madrid, and swerves round to Aranjuez. Following the road, at Villarejo, in the parish church, may be seen some good paintings by Orrente. Then come olive grounds and waste lands. The Tajana is spanned by a stone bridge, aiid through a pretty valley we ascend to Arganda, 3000 in- habitants, celebrated for its excellent red wine. Shortly after leaving this, the Jarama is crossed, near its conflu- ence with the Manzanares, and on a fine suspension bridge. Vacia Madrid, a hamlet, is reached, and then Vallecas, a city of bakers, and we enter the capital by the ronda, on the left of the Alicante railway station. MADRID — ROUTES (Al.MANSA). 255 Madkid from Marseilles aud Bar- celona vid Valencia. — The route tVom Marseilles may be followed eitlicj- by Nismes, ilontpellier, oi' Perpigiian, whence by Barcelona and Zaragoza ; rail throughout (see Barcelona, etc.), or by sea from Marseilles to Valencia, per steamers of tlie Florio-Rubattino Co., fortnightly both ways, or Frassinet ct Cie, weekly both ways ; 48 hours' voy- age. For fares and precise times of sailing see advts. in time-tables, or apply at agents' offices. From Va- lencia, by rail, in 15^ hrs. ; two trains per day, joining the direct line from Alicante to Madrid at La Encina. The sea passage is generally rough — especi- ally in the Gulf of Lyons, and during the equinox or the winter — and the hours of departure, etc., are uncertain. But good sailors will enjoy the trip, as the coasts of Spain, on nearing Valencia, present a charming, novel spectacle, from their peculiarly African character aud vegetation. Marseilles. — Grand Hotel Noailles and Grand Hotel du Louvre, both in Rue Noailles, well situated and good. Pop. 370,000. The chief French Mediterranean port ; a handsome thriving city, improving rapidly in every sense, and most important as a commercial centre. The {)rincipal streets are La Cannebicre and the fine Rue de la Republique, which inter- sects the old parts of the town. Principal sights : — The magnificent new Exchange, a fine new Cathedral, Zoological Gardens, Museum at Chateau Bordli Square, and Fountain de I'Obelisque, a hu-ge theatre, the Prado, a promenade 3 miles long, etc. English Church, 100 Rue Silvabelle ; service at 10.30 A.M. and 3 P.M. From Marseilles to Paris, by rail, 2oi hrs. To London direct by Paris, 3oi hrs. To Nice by rail, 6 hrs. On arriving at Valencia, see this name for description, fares, etc. The route from Valencia to Almansa passes no cities of any importance ; but the scenery is most Oriental ; the vege- tation exotic. About Cattaroja the fertility of the soil is such that it yields, in irrigated soils, above 80 per ct. per acre. Near Silla is the large lake of La Albufera (see Valencia). Alge- iiiffii — the church cont-.iins several fine li'ilialtas. Alcira. — As the Huerta of Valencia is called the Garden of Spain, this place is defined the Jardin del Reino de Valencia. Between this and Jativa, and more especially about Carcagente (|iop. 10,000), the eye sweeps over a vale of plenty. The olive, the orange, the mulberry ; the many and pictur- esque water-wheels, called norias ; the low white -washed terraced cortijos, shaded by a couple of stately palms ; the Bedouin-looking farmers, whose absence of dress confirms Voltaire's saying, ' Rien n'habille comme le nu ' ; the square brick belfries of the village churches, whose bright -coloured azu- lejos shine in the glorious sun — such are the principal features of the country we traverse until we reacli Jativa (also called San Felipe), pop. 14,500. In- different fonda in the Calle de Moncada. This ancient Roman and Moorish city was the home of the great Borja, or ' Borgia,' family, and the birthplace of the painter Ribera. Finely situated, but dirty. The torrent of La Montesa is crossed on leaving it. The ruins of the castle of that name are seen in the distance. This castle was once the stronghold of the knightly order of Montesa, established in 1318, after the suppression of the order of Templars. We enter a tunnel near Fuente de la Higuera, some 1500 metres long, and arrive, first at La Encina, the junction for Alicante (good buffet), then at Almansa.— (8900 inhab., 2245 ft. 256 MADRID, above the sea.) A Moorish dilapi- dated castle on the N.W.heiglits. Cele- brated for the battle wou by I'hilip V.'s army, imder Berwick, agaiust the Archduke of Austria's troops, 1707. The route from Alma.iisa to Madrid has been described uuder Alicante, which see. Madhid from Lisbon vid Badajoz and Mkrida.— Time, 34 hrs. ; fares— (liable to variation) in Sp. money, 1st cl., 86 pes. 35c. ; 2d cl., 64 pes. 65c. ; in Port, money, 1st cl., 15,540 reis ; 2d cl., 11,630 reis. The time at Lisbon is 25 m. behind that at Madrid. For description of route, see Lisbon. MADRID. Climate. — The characteristics of the climate of Madrid, which stands 2384 feet above the sea, are extreme heat in summer, cold winds in winter, with some exceptional spring-like weather, dryness of the air, and sudden changes. The icy northerly wind which sweei)S over the slopes of the Guadarrama, pierces the very lungs, as it were, with a steel blade. In winter its prevalence, which, however, happily does not last long, induces pneumonia,orinfiammatiou of the lungs. When the wind blows in summer, its antagonism with the burn- ing breath of the south-east renders the shade dangerous. The north-eastern and south-west winds may be said to be most prevalent, the former in the win- ter and spring, and the latter in the autumn and summer. The difierence of the temperature between sun and shade is 20"^, hence the Spanish pro- verbs : ' En Enero busca la sombra el perro :' ' Hasta el cuarenta de Mayo no te quites el sayo.' In consequence of these sudden changes, that icy dryness and rawness of the air, apoplectic at- tacks are frequent, and the nervous sy.stem is affected. During the sum- mer, bronchitis, pneumonia, catarrhal bilious fevers, and dysentery prevail ; chronic diseases become more acute, and consumption especially so. The tem- perature varies a good deal according to the different quarters of the town, and on the whole we shoidd advise a southern aspect. Rain is scarce. There is no endemic malady, and the colique de Madrid, of which French travellers write, is imaginary. There are very few days in the winter that a drive in an open caniage cannot be taken, and the bright, sunny, cloudless sky is the rule, not the exception. The climate has therefore been much calumniated, and ' iiueve meses de invierno y tres de iulierno ' was applied to Valladolid, not Madiid. Ordinary precautions when the Guadarama w ind prevails, and cur- tailing one's usual allowance of wine when ' los calores ' begin, and no abuse of iced drinks and fruits at that season, is all that is required. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS made at the Observatory of Madrid. Months December January February Marcli April . May . June . July . August September October Novembci I ■. ^ a Temperature of air C 5-^ 'rt i-^ •^ c Maxi- Mini- Oscil- 01 mum mum lation. dW rt 59 5^- Q 25 34 112 '7 6i 24 37 252 S 59 32 27 io6 13 75 34 4' 76 3 77 32 45 82 10 88 36 52 23s 8 91 45 S6 144 6 98 52 46 24 a 107 55 52 17s „ 102 45 57 104 z 88 36 52 49 IZ 63 32 3" 48 « MADRID — ITS HISTORY. 257 <^0^ CITY ARMS. Madrid.— (Pop. about 500,000.)— Is placed militarily under the jurisdiction of a captain-general ; administratively, under the orders of a gobernador civil, which answers to the French prefect; and of an alcalde corregidor (lord mayor), who is at the head of the corpo- ration, el ayuntamiento, the revenues of which are considerably curtailed by the absorption by government of the derechos de puertas, which really apper- tain to its fund. History. — Of the early history of Xfadrid we know little or nothing, save tliat when Toledo fell into the hands of the Arabs it became an advanced post to that city. They called it Mahubib, and in the chronicle of Sam- piro it is mentioned as Mazcrit. It was strongly fortified, but finally taken and razed, 939, by Don Eaniiro II. of Leon ; was wrested a second time by the Moors ; peopled chiefly by Moz- arabos, and recovered by Alfonso VIII., 1083. The to^vn was situated to the W., and crowned the heights over- hanging the Manzanares. The walls extended from the strong Puerta de la Vega, by the Vistillas, to Puerta de Moros, that looked towards Toledo, a quarter which was subsequently allotted to the Moors and Jews. They then followed by the street still called Caba Baja (a deep or low ditch), at the extremity of which ^\as Puerta Cerrada, with a dragon or serpent sculptured upon it, continuing by the Casa Juan Miguel, Puerta. de Guadalajara, which was the finest, and placed in the centre of the present platerias. On the hill now called Cuesta and Plazuela de St. Domingo stood several watch-towers, and another gate called Bab-el-Nadur. In the 12th century the city extended more towards the E., in those parts where now stand the churches of San Martin and San Gincs, and towards the S. to San Francisco. In those days, over the present arid plains extended thick forests of oaks, chestnuts, and madronos (strawberry-tree), infested with bears, wolves, and other wild beasts, thus affording excellent hunting and shooting, to enjoy which the kings of Castile often repaired to JIadrid. It must have been then a cit)' of some importance, as it was often chosen for the convocation of the Cortes, and the coronation of kings ; however, it a,ssumed no well-marked individual importance until the 16th century, when it became the constant residence of Charles V. The climate Avas well suited to the infirmities of the emperor; and another monarch, Sancho IV., had already resided here for the sake of its invigorating ' aires.' Though Tol edo was thpTi^JJTe_(^ pnr<; ap d_rapjtaV the emperor often prefen-ed the sojourn of the quiet hunting-box of Madrid ; and the election of this city as the metro- polis of the kingdom was not Philip II. 's idea, but had long prevailed in the mind of his father (Cabrera, ' Hist, de Felipe Segundo,' book v. c. 9). At this monarch's instigation, stj;ep^hg.U(ii ' bv thcATcinitj^^oryieJEscorial, in wb.ich s- ^-- 258 MADRID— IIOTKLS. he had resolved mostly to live, riiilip II. declared Madrid the only court of the kingdom, Unica Corte (1560). This most wise and politic measure has often caused surprise in those who have over- looked the serious reasons that dictated it. The unification of the monarchy could be achieved only by the centralis- ation of power ; and with the hope of absorbing all hostile feeling then so prevalent between provinces, he thought it wise to select a city free from local traditions, and for tliat reason more willingly acceptable to all. Great pro- jects were planned, the realisation of which would have confirmed this selec- tion ; but the death of the king and subsequent reigns impeded their being carried out. Philip 111. removed his court to Valladolid, but the interests already created in Madrid were too powerful now to admit of such a change, and the climate of Valladolid was moreover ill suited to the king. Philip V. and Charles III. considerably en- larged the city, and ailded many useful public works, edifices, and monuments. During the French occupation of Mad- rid several projects of amelioration and embellishment were planned, which, if realised, would have considerably im- ])roved the capital. The city arms (see page 257) are : a tree vert, with fruit gules, up which a bear is climbing, an orb azure, with eight stars argent, and over the silver escutcheon a royal crown, which last was granted by Charles V. in 1544. The city is styled ' Imperial y coronada, muy noble y muy leal,' to which Fer- dinand VII., in 1814, added 'y muy heroica. ' Madrid rises on the slopes and sur- face of a plateau formed by sandy lunestone hills, on a plain which is bounded N. N.E. by the Somosierra, and N.W. by the Guadarrama range of hills, which latter are capped with snow often till .lune. The Manzanares girds it to the W. and S.W. It is the resi- dence of the court, Metropolis de las Espanas, captaincy-general of Castilla la Nueva and a bishoi)"s see, suffragan of Toledo (a concession of the last con- eordat with Rome). Hotels. — None first class. Hotel dc la Faix, Puerta del Sol, the best, and well situated. Pension from 12^ pes. a day upward.s. 2. Hotel de Paris, Puerta del Sol. Good hotel, but not so sunny as No. 1. Lift. English spoken. From 12^ pes. a day. G. Guidi, good courier. 3. Hotel de Roma, Caballero de Gracia. Very good, but not so well situated. 4. Hold dc Ihisia, Carrera de San Geronimo. Fair. From 10 pes. 5. Hotel IiKjh's, Calle Echegaray. Excellent table and every convenience, but Spanish. Charges from 10 pes. 6. Hotel Vnivcrso, Puerta del Sol, 14. (jood and moderate. From 8 pes. 7. Hotel de los Emhajadores, Callo de la Victoria ; comfortable and mod- erate, but Spanish. 8. Hotel dc Sevilla, Calle Alcahi, 33 : good private hotel : prices from 10 pes. 9. Hotel Peninsular, Calle Mayor, 43, with restaurant. Well spoken of. N.B. — Prices at hotels in Madrid are charged whether the visitor dines and breakfasts at the hotel or not. Lodijings—QaWtA Casas de Hncsjmies {Imcspcd, a guest), a sort of boarding- house, where, for a fixed price, vary- ing from 6 to 10 pes. a day, everything included, parties can get a very decent room, two meals a day, and attendance (for the latter 2r. extra are usually paid a day). MADRID — THE CITY. 259 The following paitakc of the com- forts found in hotels, and, tliough the dearest, are the best, in Madrid : — Several, close by tlie Puerta del Sol, in tlie Arenal, Pieciados, Carmen, etc.; No. 8 and Nos. IG and IS Arenal ; No. 12, Calle Mayor ; Nos. 7 and 9 Carrera de San Ocronimo. In these houses, as in all the hotels, electric light. In some of them Spanish waj'S must not be objected to, or an occasional Spanish dish, but there is nothing to olfend any save the most fastidi- ous. Unprejudiced travellers will find a good Casa de Huespedcs thoroughly comfortable, and reason- able in cost compared with the ground- lessly high prices of some of the great hotels. There is a house in the Callc de Postas (Posada ilel Peine) wliere strict economists may hire rooms at 1 pes. a day, all meals being taken abroad. Tlie situation is good, and the accommoda- tion is well siioken of. For other similar cstal)lishments see advertise- ments in papers, or inquire of residents. If intending to reside some time, it w ill be advisable to take an apartment with or without furniture, according to the conditions. The latter may be hired by the month or year at moderate prices. The best ajiartments, ^w!")65, when the splendid collection of arms formed by Charles V. was removed hither from Valladolid. Many important later additions from Spanish and foreign sovereigns, purchases, etc., augmented the collection. Much was [dundered by the French during their occupation of Madrid, and great confusion caused, which was slowly remedied. The now rare catalogue published 1793, drawn after the 'Inventario General Historico ' of the same year, throws little light on dubious origins of swords, etc. A new arrangement was made in 1848, and a complete catalogue was drawn up in 1861 by Senor Komero after Sensi's work of 1838. In July 1884 a fire caused irremediable injury, consuming most of the old banners, trappings, and other stuffs. Fortunately the more valuable objects were saved ; and the collection is still probably the finest in the world. A fresh rearrange- ment has lately been made (1895), and the collection is now in excellent state. The following list gives the principal objects of interest, but it must be taken rather as a companion than as a guide. No hand catalogue is available, but the articles are named. A Moorisli sword, called Boabdil's ; doubt- ful, and with an illegible inscription. Two ascribed to that Granadine king are mentioned in the catalogue of 1793. The Misr^k used by Ali-Bashah, Admiral of the Turkish fleet at Lepanto. A montante, sent by Clement VIII. to Philip II., in 1593. Another one, sent to Juan II. of Caslile by Pope Eugenius IV., in 1446. An elegant pommel. That belonging to Garcia de Parodes. Of the Valencian school. The helmet of D. Jayrae el Conquistador. Of paper-board, with a winged dragon, the Limousin Dracpennat. Sword which belonged to D. Jayme el Con- quistador. Brought from Majorca, 1831. (See also sword of Pelayo's.) A large and very ancient sword. Belonged to Gonzalo de Cordoba. Sword, belonged to King Fernando el Santo ; with figures of St. Barbara and St. Christopher, and the words 'Jesus, Maria.' Sword, described as Pelayo's, but doubtful. Two shields, presents of the Duke of Savoy to Philip III., in 1603. An excellent specimen of Toledan blades, the work of Cantero, 1564. A Toledan blade of Ferdinand V. el Catolico. 268 MADRID — ARMOURY. A sword described as having belonged to Bernardo del Carpio. Sword of the 'Gran Capitan,' a magnificent Toledan blade, said to have been a gift of the Catholic kings to Gonzalo de Cdrdoba, and now used as the sword of state, upon which the oath of allegiance to the Princes of Asturias is solemnly taken. On one side of the gilt pommel is represented a battle, with a legend, allusive to the hero's victory over the French at Cannes ; and on the other an inscription, calling him a third dictator, stating that ' Facta Italiae pace, Janum clavsit," etc. A Valencian sword of Isabel the Catholic, with the warlike inscription, ' Nunca veo paz comigo,' and ' Deseo siempre Gera.' A German sword by Solingen, taken at battle of Norlingen. A double-handed sword of Charles V. , made at Zaragoza. Sword of Philip II., the work of the Portu- guese Menchaca. A fine blade of Juan Martinez, of Toledo. A gem of the palmy days of the Revival, and a masterpiece of Sebastian Fernandez, of Toledo. Observe everything here ; the busts, the medallion, with a basso-relievo re- presenting the Judgment of Paris, and others ; the genii, satyrs, etc. Its length, about 4 ft. ; its weight, 2 lb. 13 oz. La Colada, ascribed to the Cid, and formerly to Hernan Cortes. A sword belonging to Don Juan of Austria, made at Zaragoza. 'Montante' of Ferdinand V. el Catolico, with the motto, 'Tanto Monta; ' from Zara- goza, and of the sort called ' Al mendrada.' An admirable copy of the sword of Francis I., which this king gave up when taken prisoner at the battle of Pavia, and which is now in Paris Musee d'ArtilliSrie (832). This copy is the work of Sr. Zuloaga. Sword of Francisco Pizarro, the conqueror of Peru. A magnificent sword, the one usually worn by Philip II. I'he blade is German; on one side is the inscription, ' Pro Fide et Patria, pro Christo et Patria. Inter Arma silent Leges. Soli Deo Gloria;' and on the other, 'Pugna pro Patria, pro Aris et Focis ; nee Temere, nee Timide ; Fide sed cui vide.' A sword of Charles V., brought from the monastery of Yuste, after the emperor's death ; the work of Juan de Toledo. Sword of Hernan Cortes, with the well-known mark of the ' Perrillo.' Another with the same mark, and which belonged to the celebrated poet, Garcilaso de la Vega; but another sword of his (1916) is more interesting, as it states that by its means the poet slew a Moor on llie field of battle. He killed a Moor who had railed al the Virgin. Sword of Suero de Quinones, the hero of the Paso Honroso, near Leon. Armours, Saddles, etc. — Half- suit, be- longed to Juan de Padilla, head of the Comu«- eros. From Charles V.'s collection. Suits of armour belonging to the Infantes Felipe, Carlos, and Ferdinand, sons of Felipe III., and Media armadura of Felipe II. as a child. Both figures and suits of all this collec- tion should be carefully looked at, as should also the thirty-five suits of Charles V. close at hand. The sedan chairs of Charles V. were burnt in 18S4, along with many other priceless relics. A magnificent pair of stirrups of Charles III. Roman equestrian armour of Charles V. The war saddle of James I. of Aragon, el Conquistador. War saddle ascribed to the Cid. Armour of Charles V., brought from Yuste. A magnificent Florentine armour of the Great Duke of Alba. Milanese armour of Antonio de Leyva. Equestrian armour of Hernan Cortes. A very fine armour, which belonged to Boab- dil, the ill-fated Bey Chico de Granada. It proceeds from Charles V.'s collection. The authentic armour worn by Christopher Columbus ; it weighs 41 lb. Complete armour of Charles V., in which he was portrayed by Titian (picture-gallery). Complete armour of Philip II., in which he w.as portrayed by Titian (picture-gallerj', 7C9). A Chinese armour, a present of the Emperor of China to Philip II. Bronze armour used in Spain towards end of 15th centur>'. They are a modification of the Lombards, serpentines, of earlier times. Complete armour of the ill-fated Don Carlos, son of Philip II. Armour of Don Juan de Austria, of fine Milan work. Equestrian armour of Charles V., in which that emperor entered the city of Tunis ; it weighs 7 arrobas, 14 lb. The sword is a fine Toledan blade, made by Juan Martinez e) Viejo. A Eorgonota helmet of Charles V. Observe the admirably-executed relievos of warriors and centaurs, au'J gold and silver damascened. MADRID — ARMOURY. 2G9 ( Litter used by Charles V. in campaign, and when gout prevented him riding. Helmet of Philip II., remarkable for the finely-executed Revival relievos of the Italian school. Equestrian armour of Prince Phillbert of Savoy. An English banner taken at the siege of Carthagena (Indies), with the motto ' nee aspera terrent.' Armour of Charles V., and the finest here of Italian workmanship (1539); brought from Yuste. A helmet and shield which belonged to Francis I., and were found with his other effects at the battle of Pavia ; but they were not those worn by him on the day of the battle. Very interesting saddles, with pictures on the bows ascribed to Perin del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael and others. A^.^. — Observe the fine specimens of firearms in armarios 5, 11, and 12, at end of room ; the beautiful shield (1379) with relievos represent- ing scenes from the ist chapter of Petrarca's 'Trionfo d'Amore.' The magnificent shield (557) cuadro 15, a masterpiece of the Milanese Nejroli. The firearms of the Madrid arcabu- ceros are worth notice. A barrel of an escopeta, the work of Cristobal Trisleva, and which was loaded by the breech — presented by Sr. Zuloaga. A sort of sceptre found in the ruins of Orfah Mesopotamia. We must also draw the atten- tion of visitors to the Visigoth votive crown. The iron inkstand used by Charles V., and brought from the Escorial, and admirably en- graven & reau/orte. Gold votive crown, with precious stones and a cross suspended within the crown ; weighs 46 onzas and s adarmes. The inscription : — ' Svinthilanos Kex offerret.' (Svinthilic reigned 621 to 631, and was the 23d Visigoth monarch.) Gold votive crown offered by Abbot Theo- dosius ; sapphires, etc. ; fine. Gold Cross offered by Bishop Lucetius. The rest are fragments of crowns, an emer- ald on which is engraven the Annunciation of the Virgin ; six large sapphires, etc. These crowns were worn, and then, with some addi- tions, constituted a solemn pious offering to some church on a particular event, and the chains, etc., were added probably to suspend them before the altar. The workmanship resembles certain ornaments of the Merovin- gian period, and evinces beauty in general design and richness, being of great value as relics of the Visigoth age. These proceed from a field near the small village of La Fuente de Guarrazar, near Toledo ; and before these, some other and larger insignia of the same age had been dug up by chance and sold to the French Government for 100,000 fr., and we saw them not long ago at the Hotel Cluny. The Spanish Government claimed them back on the ground of their being national regalia and heirlooms of the state, but they have not been given back. A severe decree ruling treasure- trove in Spain was the consequence. For further details see a paper written by Mr. Albert Way in the ' Archseological Journal,' and a notice by M. du Sommerard in the ' Monde lUustr^,' i860; see also Mr. F. de Lasteyrie's exhaustive ' Description du Tresor de Guer- razar," etc.; Paris, i860. Gold crowns were always worn by the Visigoth kings. We read in Conde that Moussa ordered about 400 families of the blood royal to accompany him to Syria as hostages, and they bore round their heads diadems of gold, and girdles of the same. Also, in Conde, book i. chap. 12, when Tarik was lodged in the Alcazar of the Visigoth kings at Toledo, it is mentioned that ' in a secluded room of the royal palace he found twenty-five gold crowns inlaid with hyacinths and other precious stones, for it was the custom that, after the death of a king, his crown should be laid aside here, after engraving upon it his name, age, and the time that his reign had lasted.' Much useful information can be ob- tained from Riano's ' Industrial Arts in Spain' (Chapman and Hall, 1879), where lists of armourers' names are given. The Artillery Museum. — Founded in 1803. This museum'was rebuilt in 1890 and contains a valuable collection of weapons, trophies, models, plans in relief, etc. It stands on the site of the old place of Buen Retiro, near the Bolsa de Comercio, and can be visited on Tuesdays and Saturdays, 10 to 3. It is closed, however, on public holi- days. The collection is well arranged on two floors, and as the articles are named no catalogue is needed (small fee to attendant). 270 MADRID — PICTURE-GAI.LKRY. Tlie foHowing objects are specially interesting : On the ground floor, Kooiii I., a number of guns taken from the Moorish, Mala}'^, etc., pirates. In Room II., models of the Alcazar of Segovia and relief plan of Madrid in 1830. In Room III., the carriage in which General Prim was assassinated, near the Teatro de Apolo, in 1870 ; also an interesting collection of cannon and a table used by Charles V. at Yilla- viciosa, when landing in Spain. First Floor : Room I., a banner and tent of Charles V. ; a Moorish tent taken in 1860 during the Morocco war; some banners and models of fortifica- tions, etc. Room II., modern royal portraits and a gun presented by Herr Krupp to King Alfonso XII. Room III., weapons of natives in the Spanish colonies; statue of a Philippine cliief of the island of ilindanao and various pieces of armour. Room V., model of a Krupp gun. Rooms Nl. and VII., historical collectionof armour, weapons, banners, and furniture. Room VIII., a fine Moorish sword; memorials of the 'Martyrs of Libert}',' Luis Daoiz and Pedro Velarde, who were killed on the 'Dos de Maj'o' (1808) in the attempt to expel the French from IVIadrid. The Musco de Historia Natural and the Musco Arqueol6gico have now been housed in the building of the Bil>]io- teca Nacional (see p. 288). The Naval Museum, Plaza de los Miuisterios, opposite the royal stables, can be visited on Tuesdays and Fridays, 10-3, by permit from the Director. The objects are labelled and need no description. A good idea can be gathered here of the progress of ship- building, from the caravels of Colum- bus's time to the ' Reiua Regcnte,' the armoured cruiser lost in 1895. Some of the charts and portraits are interesting, as are also the relics of celebrated navigators. This collection of naval models and paintings was begun in 18-13. Rooms I. and II. on the ground floor, ami V. and VIII. on the first floor, are especially interesting. Royal Picture-Gallery {Real Museo de Finturas). — It is situated on the Prado ; open all the year round, except on Mondays and rainy days, from 9 A.M. to 4 P.M. Mondays, open from 1 p.m. Admission free on Sundays, from 10 to 3 in winter, 8 to 1 in summer ; upon ordinary days a fee of 50 centimes for the benefit of the Poor Asylum at Prado. N.B. — It is closed on rainy days. The porter is very civil, and speaks French. To make copies, apply to the Director, Sr. D. Francisco Pra- dilla, Resales, 20, or to the Secretary, D. Luis Alvarez, Barquillo, 16. State the name of picture, its number, etc. Copies of the same size as the originals are allowed. Pictures cannot be taken downorremoved. Thcreare severalgood copyists, and the charges are moderate. The Museo owes much to the late Director (Madrazo), one of the best modern Spanish artists, and an enthusi- astic patron of art. A catalogue in two vols., with an abridgment in one vol., price 4 pes., by Don Pedro Madrazo, may be purchased at the door. From either of these works a vast amount of useful information will be gained. The edifice is large, not wanting in majesty and grandeur, but too low for its length. It was the, work of Juan de Villanueva, and was built in 1785 for Charles III., who intended it for a Museum of Natural History and an Academy of Sciences. It was com- pleted in the reign of Charles IV., but remained unused save at the time of the French occupation, when it was con- verted into a barrack. Ferdinand VII. , at the request of his queen, Isabel do Braganza, who cultivated painting, caused it to be repaired and fitted up for a picture-gallery, and in Nov. 1819 MADRID PICTURE GALLKRY — X i=i DESCANSO I fl |PORTn*ITSl in S /^ ">,.•• r LJ -I /r- Mj'tunoaX UJ _l U. FRENCH i •6 I o \ GERMAN j I 1- 1- 3 D a z □ < _) >- < q: H u _i ^ ol .« < X \ / \ i' $ o ( \ \ S A L A E N J:n '-= \ ii 1 n \ 1 S A B E L 2 : * \ / 1 d: \ \ / O Jt^' \ '"'V ^ -'^ 1 I U5 Z < Q. aintiugs from the Museo Nacional de la Trinidad, consisting of early Spanish and Flemish works removed from the convents, etc., ui>on their suppression, in 1836. The lights, generally, are good ; hut the spaces are too confined, and consequently, esiMJcially in the long gallery, where the great A^elasquez, etc., works are hung, the eOect is sadly lacking. Fair photo reproductions of the i)aintings are to be purchased on the premises and in the city ; but since the closing of Laurent's gallery, in the Carrera San Geronimo, these are not so good as they shouM be. This gallery is considered the finest in the world, but it is rather a collec- tion of splendid gems than a complete chronological series of schools. It is ! wanting in examples of the early Italian, j and of the German and French masters, and several of the Valencian and Sevil- lian schools are scantily, if at all, re- presented ; but it is exceedingly rich in the productions of some great mas- ters, and few galleries can boast of pos- sessing, like this one, G2 Rubens', 53 Teniers, 10 Raphaels, 46 Murillos, 64 Valazquez', 22 Van Dycks, 43 Titians, 34 Tintorettos, 25 Veroneses, 54 Breu- ghels, 23 Snyders, 19 Poussins, 10 "Wouvermans, 55 Giordanos, 58 Riberas, 10 Claudes, etc. The authenticity, es- jxecially of the most important, is doubtless, as they proceeded from the ]ulac('5 of Madrid, Escorial, El Pardo, La Granja, for which most were painted expressly, and the inventories of which designate them with full particulars. They number upwards of 2000, and are tlie property of the crown. The re- pairs {restauracionai) have been made with care and intelligence, saving a few exceptions, and most of the principal pictures have been spared, especially Velazquez's. According to the new arrangements, the best Spanish and Italian pictures are now placed in the long central saloon, and a few of the most remarkable masterpieces have been collected in a special circular room, called Salon de Isabel II., somewhat like the Salon Cam of the Louvre, tha Tribuna of Florence, and that of Bo- logna. The four lateral halls contain : the two nc;irest the entrance, that on the right Spanish masters, that on the left, those of Italy ; the two farthest consist of Flemish and Dutch pictures. The 2d Rotimda exhibits specimens of French and German masters. In the ground -floor is situated the reduced and unimportant collection of sculp- ture and antiques, and the interesting Goya scries ; but the re-arrangement of the Museo is so constant and irritat- ing that it is difficult to predicate any year where the works will be located the next year. The following descrip- tion can only be offered as a com- panion, not as a guide. In noticing the more remarkable jiic- tures, we follow the order in which the traveller generally visits the galler}' — viz. 1. Central Long Room ; 2. Sala de Is;ibel II. ; 3. Dutch and Flemish schools ; 4. Spanish and Italian schools (lateral halls to entrance). The Salon de Isabel II. has lately (1S9S; been re- constructed, and in the fresh collocation here of paintings there is a good deal of change going on ; but the Salons are so small that visitors will have no diffi- culty in finding any particular work. For a concise idea of the chronological order of the Spanish masters, etc., we refer our readers to General Infor- matioHj Painting and Painters, and to the works of reference on the subject. 272 MADRID — PICTURE GALLERY. NUMERICAL INDEX, WITH REKF.KENCES TO THE PAGES WHERE THE PICTURES ARE DESCRIBED. NO. PAGE.; NO. PAGE. NO. PAGE. 23 280 848 [273 1305 284 39 279 854 1316 283 67 283 1 855 274 1322 281 135 282 1 859 282 1325 2S5 III h^ 864 865 [273 1327 1328 284 285 153 284 866 282 1329 [2S1 207 272 856 1330 236 282 868 [274 1320 259 ) 1 869 1335 282 260 V279 ' 871 284 1336 Use 261 ) 872 1338 292 2S0 878 U73 1398 283 322 283 8S0 1484 282 323 280 886 1488 I2S6 356 284 ^ 8S7 1.274 1487 364 |-28o 883 1504 285 365 897 ^284 1545 1 281 366 277 956 273 1558 367 280 981 272 1561 285 368 276 982 283 156s 281 369 277 i 987 273 1566 ) 370 276 989 I 272 1581 >285 372 2S0 990 158s ) 383 384 }., loco 1004 1-283 1586 1587 |-286 390 ) ion 273 1590 28s 393 396 284 279 1 1032 1033 >274 1591 1592 ]-286 398 410 281 1035 1036 1604 1605 }28s 42s 1044 1606 2S1 436 •279 105s 276 1609 28s 428 , 1058 283 1610 286 450 451 ■282 1059 1060 [27s i6ii 1613 285 286 456 N 1061 283 1678 ^ 1 457 1062 275 1683 458 1066 276 1691 459 -278 1067 274 1694 460 1068 275 169s >-28s 462 1069 276 1720 466 1078 1733 47' ) 1091 [283 1738 527 279 1092 1739 ; 533 281 1096 [276 1743 749 ^ 1095 1747 286 750 1098 1752 {285 75' 1099 1754 752 753 f-273 IIOO IIOI {■275 i8i8 1832 2S2 ; 755 i 758 HOC) 1II6 [■276 1834 1835 [285 764 J 1 1 20 282 1987 }=8, 767 \ 1132 284 1988 772 "33 274 1989 281 773 775 U72 "75 1 176 [284 2040 2043 }284 787 J 1245 2056 281 788 274 1274 [285 2083 I284 789 284 1279 2084 847 273 i3°4 284 2124 et seq. j-287 1. Rulumla, or Eiitraiice IlalL — Hero are jilaced temporarily one or two of the Salon I.qahcl II. paintings, notably Van Dyck's Tieacliery of Jnfla.s. Generally, there is but little to look at. Observe, however, the four large ' tempera ' paintings of the early Spanish school : The Adoration of the Magi, and SS. Peter and Paul. These formed the shutters of the organ in the church of Santo Tomas at Avila. No. 787. An allegory by Mayuo, of whom Lope do Vega said : — ' Juan Bautista Mayno a qui^u el arte debe aquella accion que las figuras mueve.' (' Laurel de Apolo.') The Duke of Oli- vares stands on the side of Philip IV Long Central Room. — The first half, on entering, contains Spanish, and the second half Italian pictures. The first series are modern, and all the rest early Spanish and Italian. Thelessthat is said about the 'Escuelas contemporaneas,' of which there are specimens here, the better. No. 775. Death of Viriatus, by J. ]\Iadrazo ; all the others, by the academical Bayeu, Maella, Aparicio, etc., belong to the pseudo - classical French style of the First Empire. The Goya studies formerly here have been removed to the special ' Goya ' rooms established in 1896 on the ground floor of the building (seepage 286), descend- ing by the stairs leading from the southern end of the building. The gems of the Museo calling for the most careful attention are as follows : — Rihcra {Sjmgnoletio). No. 989. Martyrdom of St. Bartholo- mew. ' Powerful diawing and colour- ing.' 990. Holy Trinity. 'Painted like Caravaggio ; ' ' exhibits great power, but is not a pleasing composition.' 081. The Magdalen. MADRID— PICTURE-GALLERY. 273 950, etc. A scries of scenes from tho Lives of the Apostles. 1011. rrofile head of a Sibyl. 987. Release of St. Peter from prison. Jiuin de Juanr.s. No. 749. St. Stephen preaching the Gospel. Very rich colouring ; very like Pcrugino. 750. Ditto (Sala Is. II.) Tho saint, standing in tho synagogue, points to the vision painted above, exclaiming, 'I see the heavens opening, and the Son of Man sitting at the right hand of God the Father !' The infuriated Jews are pouring anathemas upon the saint. ' The treatment and technical execution of these pictures is Italian in its character and very Una.' (Sir Ed. Head.) ' A truly splendid painting for the composition as well as colour- ing.' (Hoskins.) 755. The Lord's Supper. Considered by some as superior in many respects to the celebrated Cenn of Da Vinci, but is more like Vasari's. It was re- painted in Paris by M. Bounemaison, and is one of Juanos' masterpieces. 764. Ecce Homo. Agilt background ; on wood. A subject often treated by this master ; remarkably fine. 751. St. Stephen on his Way to Exe- cution. Another of the series of scenes from the Life and Martyrdom of this saint. (Nos. 749-753.) 'A hard but fine painting. The crowd mock- ing the saint, admirable for expression, draw- ing, and colouring. The figure of the saint, resigned and full of religion, is beyond praise ; his feet and hands most carefully painted, and his garments equal to the magic draperies of Paul Veronese.' (Hoskins.) ' Studies for such scenes must have been common in Spain ; many a Dominican might have sat for the Saul.' (Sir E. Head.) On wood. 753. Burial of St. Stephen. 'Coloured like Scbastiano del Piombo.' The man dressed in black, and standing on the left, is said to be the painter. On wood. 758. Coronation of the Virgin ; oval ; on wood. Morales. 848. Mater Dolorosa. One of his best here ; inferior, according to Viardot, to the Circumcision. 847. Ecce Homo. An excellent ex- ample of his style. Murillo. 880. Conception. EsLilo vaporoso. ' Very exquisite.' Preferred by some to No. 878. 872. St. Anna Teaching the Virgin to read. ' The child wants beauty, but the saint is admirable.' (Hoskins.) ' The draperies arc in imitation of Roe- las.' (Ford.) 864. Divino Pastor. A great favour- ite. An allegory of Christianity seated among the ruins of Paganism. It is a pendant to 805. St. John the Baptist. The two above paintings are charming examples of the 'Ninosde Murillo ;' both belong to liis third or iy(j;oro50 manner. 854. HolyFamily. Commonlycalled 'del pajaro,' on account of the bird in the child's hand. ' The head of tho Virgin is very beautiful ; but the ex- pression of the child is purely human.' (S. E. Head.) ' On ne peut voir une sc6ne familiere mieux con(;ue .... plus de grace dans les attitudes ; plus d'<5nergie dans la louche.' (Viardot.) A homely scene copied from an Andalusi.ia cot- tage. Belongs to the first /n'o style, and has been repainted at Paris, especially the face of the Virgin and the dog. 878. ConcejTtion. It is difficult to say whether this painting is superior or not to that of the same subject, which was purchased at the sale of Marshal Soult's Gallerj', now in tho Louvre. Comte de Ris (Musce Royal do ^Madrid) prefers the latter, as pos- sessing more harmony of composition, more ideality, etc. It is a great favour- 274 MADRID - riCTURE-GALLKKY. ite with tho imblic, ami constantly copied. 'Innocence itself, and beautifully painted; how rich and juicy the flesh, how full of pulp and throbbing life !' (Ford.) ' There is more of the ideal in this painting than is usually found in the works of Murillo. The style is more elevated.' (Hoskins.) U is less repainted than that at Paris. 856. Annunciation. ' Jamais, si je ne I'eusse vue, je n'aurais ima- ging qu'avec les tcinles d'une palette on put imiter a ce point leclat dune lucur miracu- leuse. et faire jaillir de la toile des rayons de lumiere. C'est le triomphe du coloristc' (Viar- dot.) The Virgin's cheek is said to be repainted. Belongs to the vaporoso style. 868. Vision of St. BernarJ. The fignvcs are of a high character. 'This again shows how closely Murillo ob- served Koelas. The draperies of the saint have been repainted ; but his head is fine, and the sentiments of gratitude and veneration are admirably expressed. The concealing the feet of the Virgin gives her figure too much height.' (Ford.) 869. Vision of San Ihlcfmiso. The Virgin is giving the casuUa (chasuble) to the saint, who was ArchbisLoi) of Toledo, and a zealous advocate of the dof'ma of the Immaculate Conception. The woman on the right holding a candle is probably the portrait of the 'devota de la Virgen ' who ordered this painting. 886. The child Christ sleeping upon the cross. 855. Kcbecca at the Well. Belongs to the second or ca//c^o style ; somewhat hard ; bears traces of the influence of liibera's manner. ' Les quatre femmes pl.ictes auprcs de la fontaine a droite, et vues en pleine limiiere, ont une (Stonnante vigucur.' (i.'ount de Ris.) 887. Head of St. John the Baptist. 888. Head of St. I'auL Saiwhez Cucllo. 1032. A Portrait. Supposed to be that of the crazy son of Philip II., Don Carlos, the hero of Schiller's admirable drama. There is no expression of idiocy or deficient intellect, .as i5. E. He.id justly remarks, but rather of a .serious meditative miiul, somewhat morose, and not unlike the habitu.il character of Philip 11. 's countenance. 1033- Portrait of the Infanta Clara Eugenia, daughter of Philip II., and wife of the Archduke Albert. Observe the details of the dress, jewels, and general colouring. She was the fa- vourite child of Philip. 1035. A Portrait. Supposed to be that of a daughter of Philip II. 1036. A Portrait. Probably of a sister of Philip II. Mazo. 788. A View of Zaragoza. The figures are ])ainted by A'elazquez, who was his father-in-law. Tobar. 1044. Portrait of Murillo. Of very great interest therefore. Tobar was his best iiu|iil, and his paintings have often been mistaken for those of his master. Zurharaii. 1133. Tlie Infant Deity asleep. Very line. (This and 1033 now, 1895, in Sala Is. II.) }'diizq}lCZ. 1067. Equestrian portrait of Isabelle de Bouibon, first wife of Philip IV. This picture has been repainted in many parts by Velazquez. The dress, though pleasing at first sight, loses of its value on closer examination. It was evidently not painted by him. Tlio queen's fine old white horse is his, and ill the briille one can even see the jiaits which he was obliged to alter while painting the horse ; they are quite dilferent from the upper part of the same, where the design of the embroi- dery is ilone in a much more elaborate and stilf manner than that of the dress. The landscape is good and by the great master. The queen's horse is white, MADRID — nCTURE-OALLKItY, 275 and olintura.) 1095. A dwarf seated with a large book. 1098. Portrait known as ' El nino de Yallecas.' 1099. El Bol)o de Coria. The booby type rendered to perfection, tnily Bo!^(Sa/)os, as heavy as an ox. 1096. A Dwarf. ' Velazquez is Teniers on a large scale. ' (Wilkie. ) 1066. Philip IV. on Horseback. A magnificent portrait. It served as a model for the bronze statue, carved by Montanez and cast by Pietro Tacca ; now in Plaza de Oriente. ' The horse is alive, and knows its rider ; how everything tells upon the cool blue and green in the background !' (Ford.) ' Look on that equestrian portrait of his (Velazquez) royal friend, Philip IV. ; he has placed him amid a denuded landscape, limited by a boundless horizon, lighted up on all sides by the sun of Spain, without a shadow, without any chiaroscuro, or repoussoir, of any sort .... and yet, behold the life about it all ! ' (Viardot.) 1069. Portrait of the Conde Duque de Olivares. ' Nothing can be finer than the effects produced by the chary use of gaudy colour in this picture, but no man was more sparing of colour ; he husbanded his whites and even yellows, which tell up like gold on his under- toned backgrounds, which always re- presented nature with the intervention of air.' (Ford.) The seat is awkwardly for^vard, and the horse seems too large to those not acquainted with the old Spanish breed. Olivares was Prime Minister and favourite privaiio of Philip IV. We have seen another portrait of Oli- vares at Dresden (Picture Gallery, No. 109), holding a paper, and superior to this one in some respects, also by Velazquez. This other half of the room is filled up with the best Italian pictures ; ah Jove princip'iiim. 1109. Landscape. A view of the Calle (Avenue) de la Reyna in the Gardens of Aranjucz. Wilkio re- marks : ' Velazquez is the only Spanish painter who seems to have made an attempt in landscape : I have seen some of his, most original and daring. Titi;in seems to be his model, and although he lived before the time of Claude and Salvator Rosa, they were contempo- raries. (The former died 1682, the latter 1673, and Velazquez 1660.) He appears to have combined the breadth and picturesque eftcct for which those two great painters were so remarkable.' This view, as well as that of the 'Fuente del Aranjuez,' is more likely to bo by Mazo than by Velazquez. 105-5. The Crucifixion is, in our humble opinion, one of the grandest conceptions in the world. Look at it once., and you will see it for ever after- wards. Oh that one might hear Ros- sini's Stahat Mater, whilst looking upon that sublime vision of Sorrow and Hope! 1116. Boar -hunt in the Pardo. A clever copy of the original, by Goya, presented by Ferdinand VIL to Lord Cowley, and purchased by Government for £2200. (Lord Ashburton possesses one of a similar subject.) Raphael. .368. Visit of St. Elizabeth to the Virgin. Painted for one Marinus Bran- conius, and signed ' Raphael Vrbinas F.' It was taken to Paris during the Peninsular War, removed tliere from board to canvas, aprocess by which it has been saved from total rain, but scarcely touched, though over varnished. 370. Holy Family, de la Rosa. Its authenticity has been doubted, but the best authorities assert it peremptorily. ' On y recounait, dfes le moindre coup MADRID — PICTURE-GALLEUY. 27' d'ceil, riiiimitablf luaiii du uiaitre.' ( Vi;ir>lot. ) ■\Vli;it nuiy liave led to super- ficial suppositions is the roseate tint spread all over, and constituting a fa- Jeur, seldom met in that gi-eat master's pictures. The grouping, outlines, ex- pression, the drawing especiallj', all render this a maguiticcnt work. The ])icture is named from the rose upon the table on which the infant Saviour rests the left foot. 366. — Christ bearing the Cross, or El Pasnio de Sicilia. Proceeds from the convent of Santa Maria dello Spasimo (the Virgin's Trance, on the way to Mount Calvary), in Palermo, for which it was painted. It represents the mo- mentwheu Christ sinks under the weight of the cross ; Simon, the Cyrenian, re- lievuig Him. Crowds of soldiers and jieople fill up the scene, which extends from the gates of Jerusalem to the sum- mit of Calvary, which is seen in the distance. ' And there followed Him a great company of people, and of women, whicli also bewailed and lamented him. But Jesus turning unto them said. Daughters of J'-Tusalem, weep not for me, but weep for yourselves, and for your children.' (St. Luke xxiii.) Tliis picture is one of the finest in the world. Some place it next to the Trans- figuration. It is superior to it, says ^'iardot, because in the Spasimo there is unity of subject, in wldch the otlier lacks, and that it is free from the ana- chronisms so noticeable in the Trans- figm-ation. It is all Kaphaei's, for in this one even Giulio Romano had not the slightest part. The great master seems to have been pleased with the work, and signed it, wliich he seldom did. There is, besides, vigour in the expression ; all is more forcible ; the only inferiority lies perhaps in the colouring, ilr. Ford and others erroneously ascribe its brick - dusty, hard tone, to its being repainted at Paris and a second time at Madrid in 18-15. The colouring, whatever its beauties and defects, is now such as Kaphael laid on. It was sent to Paris in 1812, removed from boards to canvas by M. Uomiemaison, and thus saved from ruin, just as the Holy Family of the Louvre, etc. ; the other ruthless operation, which took place at Madrid, was limited, we believe, to vami-shing. An excellent copy of the Spasimo, made by Juan Carrcno (1614 — 1685), dating about 1650, and now in the third room of the Royal Academy of San Fernando, shows the identical brick-dusty, hard tone of the origin.'d, which was carefully copied. Accoidmg to Va- sari, the female with outstretched arms repre- sents the Veronica ; and he adds that she is 'stretching out her hands to him, holding a napkin (or kerchief).' which latter is said by some to have been effaced in an injury during the adventurous journey that it had to undergo. I'he ship that was conveying it to Palermo was shipwrecked, and the bo.x which contained it was found by some fishermen on the shores of the Gulf of Genoa, whence it was sent once more to Palermo, and finally to Spain. The female, said by Vasari to be intended for the Veronica, is considered to have been meant to represent no other but the muther of Cod ; and as to the supposed napkin, there is no vestige left on the canvas that can authorise such a sup- position. As to its merits, it would be presump- tion to criticise, and tedious to repeat the raptures into which all lovers of the beautiful have fallen before this great dramatic scene. 369. (Now iu Sala Isabel 2a.) Holy Family, called 'La Perla,' because Philip IV., on beholding it for the tirst time, is said to have exclaimed, ' This is the pearl of my pictures!' Others assert that its name comes from a small oyster placed among the divine bambino's playthings. However this may be, Philip, a great connoisseur, purchased it with many other gems at the .sale of the Crown property of Charles I. by the Puritans ; he paid for it £2000. It was painted by Ilaphael whilst in Rome, for the Duke Frederic Gonzaga, of Man- tua. It belongs to the transition, second manner of Raphael. It has been over-cleaned, and the colour has conso- 278 MADRID — nCTURE-GALLERY. qiiently lost iiiuch of its depth. Tlie backgi-Qund is purposely dark, and of a rich brown. It proceeds from the Escorial. Titian. 457. Charles V. on horseback. 'The linest e([uestrian pictui-e in the world ; it is more sublime and poetical than Velazquez, yet equally true to life.' (Ford). This well-known and cele- brated portrait, cited by Titian's bio- graphers, is one of his grandest histori- cal pages. He was sent several times to Augsburg to paint the portrait of the emperor, and no statesman or historian ever guessed Charles's genius and char- acter like him. This picture has not suffered by restoration, very few bits having been retouched. It is as fine as ever. The suit of armour that served as a model is kept in the Armeria, No, 2308. He is represented here as he rode be fore his army at the battle of Jiluhlberg. 471. Allocution of Marques del Vasto to his troops. Belonged to collection of Charles I. of England. The colouring is beautiful ; restorations have injured it somewhat. Compare the expression with portrait of the Marquis by Titian at the Louvre (No. 470). Alfonso d'Avalos, Marchese del' Guasto, was a gi-eat patron of the poets and artists of his time (born 1502 ; died 1546). He commanded the army of Charles V. in Italy, and lost the battle of Cerizola against Francis de Bourbon, Comte d'Enghien, April 14, 1544. 458. Dauae. 'A sketch, but a per- fect gem, and when seen from a cer- tain distance it is living flesh.' (Ford.) It was saved with a few other nudities from among the flames of an auto-da-fe, kindled expressly for the destruction by tire, a true ^Jurification of mythological peccant pictures. It was jjainted in 1552, as a pendant to the ' Venus and Adonis,' and was a replica of the same Biibjcct painted by Titian in Rome. 459. Woman on couch. A naked figure, with a youth playing an organ. 460. Woman on coucli, ditto. The oidy tlitference between these two is that one has a lap-dog, and the other a winged boy ; an amour. They are very like the Venuses in the Tribuna at Florence. 466. Prometheus. A colossal figure, a pendant to Sisyphus. Observe an imitation by Ribera, No. 1004, and note the differences of style. 456. Adam and Eve. Very power- ful, but not pleasing. It was Rubens' favourite. When this Flemish master came to Madrid in 1628, to study the colouring of the Venetian school, he admired this picture very especially, and made of it a very careful copy (No. 1613) for the Prince of Wales (Charles I.), whose admiration for Titian's works was so great that Philip IV. made him a present of the Venus del Pardo (Jupiter and Antiope), which Philip III. prized as the gem of his wonderful collection. 462. The Gloria, or Ajxjtheosis of Charles V. and Pliilip II. Above and next to the Holy Trinity stands the Virgin ; to the right, Charles V. and Philip II., — the former in the monk's frock, which bespeaks San Yuste and Humility ; tlie latter, as well as tlie two Queens, in their regal robes. It is, according to some, the masterpiece of Titian, and had it not been cruelly repainted, might perhaps lay claim to the position. It dates about 1556, and was therefore painted when the artist was eighty years old ; but though the contrary is often asserted, genius, like wine, ripens with age, losing the acidity and rawness of youth, to acquire mellowness, strengtli, soul, aroma. The finest works of art and letters are generally the last — the set- ting suns of master minds. Observe everything here ; the 'general effect of light and colour ; the ensemble MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 279 of the groups ; the Noah and Moses more especially. ' The colouring is snperb. Charles V. ordered by will that it should be hung over his tomb. It was removed from Yuste to tlie Es- corial by order of Philip II. P. Veronese. 527. Christ disputing with the Doc- tors. ' They found him in the temple sitting in the midst of the doctors, both in hearing them and asking them ques- tions ; and all that heard him were astonished at his understanding and answers. ' (Luke ii. ) ' Vaste et th^atrale composition, recherche et bon gout des omcmens, justesse, vivacite charme de la couleur ; noblesse, vari^t^ et v^rit^ des portraits.' (Viardot.) It is interest- ing to compare the cast of the countenances, dress, etc., of this with the same subject treated by Mr. Holman Hunt. Sebastian del Piombo. 396. Clirisl in Hades. This magni- ficent painting, as well as the Holy Family at Naples, and the Resurrection of Lazarus in the National Gallery, London (No. 1), proceeds from the Ar- gerstein Collection. Thi.s is considered superior to the latter. The composi- tion has more life ; the dark tone is not so exaggerated, and the perspective so narrow and short. ' The colouring is powerful, without any de- fect, and worthy altogether of Giorgione.' (Viardot.) Guido Reni. 259. Madonna of the Chair. Pro- ceeds from the Escorial. It is one of his masterpieces in his best style, and before he fell into that invariable pale, fade mannerism, which, with a mono- tony of attitude, characterises his latter works. This is M. Viardot's opinion, repeated (as usual with the pictures of this gallery) by Mr. Ford, and who has done little else than follow his criticism and translate his observations. 261. Santiago. Tlie Tutelar of Sj)ain. The old Spanish war-cry was 'Santiago y cierra Espana !' 260. St. Sebastian. ' They are both painted in the forcible style of Cara- vaggio, but with a keener sense of beauty and grace.' In these pictures ' he hovers between the Ribera style, though softened by the study of Cor- reggio and Murillo's calida manner.' (Viardot.) A replica of that at the Louvre (No. 332), and purchased by Louis XIV. in 1670. There are several in different galleries, and one in that of the Infante Don Sebastian, at Madrid. Tintoretto. 425. Jloses found. 428. La Gloria. It is the sketch of tlie painting which is seen in the council-room of the Doge's Palace at Venice, and was brought from Italy by Velazquez for Philip IV. ' L'on y trouve, comme dans le tableau, cette fougue impetueuse et irreflechie, cet cntrainement, cette fievre qui fit ap- peler Tintoret Le Furieiix.' (Viardot) There is a sketch of same, also by Tintoretto, at the Mocenigo Palace at Venice. It has some analogy with the Paradise at the Louvre (No. 351), erroneously considered by some as another sketch of the San Marco. Grand painting. 436. Judith and Holophernes. ' Very grand and most effective.' 410. A Sea-fight. 'Great energy, life, and movement ; perhajis a little confused.' (Viardot.) It has been re- painted. The subject is a meldc between Turks and Venetians in the Archipelago ; the principal fipire is that of a young female, for whose sake the fight is probably taking place. The colouring is beautiful, though it has lost of its transparency. F. Bassano. 39. The Adoration of the Kings. One of this painter's masterpieces. Brought iiere from the [lalacc of the Escorial. 280 MADRID -PICTURE GALLERY. J. B'(ssano. 23. Noah's Ark. This painting was imrchased by Titian in Italy, and sent to Spain by order of Charles V. Mnlomhra. 292. The Council Room at Venice. The Doge is sitting in state, and the Senate is assembled for the reception of a foreign ambassador. All the figures are portraits. It has been till very lately ascribed to Tinto- retto, and was well worthy of him ; but, ac- cording to Ridolfi, it was painted by Pietro Malombra (1556-1618), and brought to Spain with several others by D. Alfonso La Cueva, Spanish ambassador at Venice. Domcnichino. 147. St. Jerome in the Wilderness. Probably a ]iendant to the Last Com- munion of St. Jerome at the Vatican. 148. Sacrifice of Abraham. These with 149 are the three examples of this Bolognese painter in this gallery. The former is especially fine. Viardot as- serts that there is no })aiuting of this master in Sjiain. Palma the Younger. 323. A mystic subject, being the Spiritual Betrothal of St. Catherine with the Infant Jesus. SALA DE ISABEL II. Ilajihael, 365. Virgin of the Fish, or Tobit and the Fish. ' La supreme expression de la noblesse et de la majeste.' (Viardot.) The mother of God is seated on a throne, holding the infant Deity in her arms. The divine Bambino, with a hand placed upon a book which St. Jerome is reading, turns towards Tobit, who is led by St. rapliael (the master's portrait probably) to the foot of the throne, before which he kneels. The subject is considered by some to repre- sent the admission of the Book of Tobit as a canonical book. It was written about two centuries E.C. ; the Rabbis do not hold it to have been divinely inspired, and Christians adopted it only in the beginning of the 16th century. St. Jerome, a prominent figure in the painting, translated it for the first time from Chaldaic into Latin. This picture dates 1514. Viardot is of opinion that it is one of the first examples of the master's third manner. It was painted for the church of St. Dominick at Naples. During an epidemic which affected the sight a chapel was built in that church, un- der the invocation of the Virgin, and specially used for prayers in behalf of those so afflicted. It was upon this occasion, and for this chapel, that Raphael was ordered the present picture (1515). Such is Vasari's explanation of the subject, whilst E. David gives the former one. It was sent to Paris about 1812, and removed from board to canvas, and is uninjured. It is, according to the best judges in the matter, the finest Madonna painting by Raphael, ne.\t to that ' della Seggiola ' at the Pitti Palace. 367. Portrait of a Cardinal, sup- posed to be that of Cardinal Julio de Medici, who became Pope Clement VII. in 1523. ' Heureux ceux qui peuvent revivre ainsi ajires trois cent cinquante ans ! ' (De Ris.) There is a semblance of life in those blue, serious, and scrutinising eyes, so full of intellect and Heaven ; a motion in the compressed lips ; blood that is seen circulating freely under the skin, so much air around it and individual iden- tity that are absolutely startling. Biography when written by such men as Velazquez, Raph- ael, Van Dyck, etc., is truly a resurrection. Observe also No. 372 (in the Lo7ig lioom), another fine j)ortrait, said to be that of Andrea Navagiero, author of a ' Viaggio in Spagna, ' etc. , and ambas- sador of Venice to Charles V. Painted towards 1516, when that distinguished Venetian was 35 years old. There is much doubt as to the authenticity of the portrait. 364. Holy Family. Bordering on miniature painting ; on wood, and therefore somewhat injured. Claims loudly for removal to canvas to avoid imminent ruin. Great finish in the figures ; dates 1507 M.VDRID — riCTURE GALLERY. 281 Sebast. del Pimnbo. 398. Christ bearing the Cross. Half- figures, from the Escorial, where it hung in theclioir; quiteworthy of that Dante of painting ; a vision of saintly terror ; very grand, very awful. Andrea del Sarto. 383. Portrait of the Master s wife, the fair and frail Lucrezia del Fede (!), for whose sake and caprices the painter, enamoured of form more than of soul, forgot and forgave everything, so that he might be allowed to gaze upon that beautiful creature. It was ill restored in 1S33. All admirers of Alfred de Miisset will remem- ber his drama ' Andrd del Sarto,' and the part this woman (' Je I'aimais d'un amour indefinis- sable ! ') plays in it. 384. Holy Family. There are two replicas in this gallery, though the No. 390 has been ascribed to his puiiil Andrea Squazzella. There is another, we believe, in M. Bee's collection at Marseilles. P. Veronese. 533. Moses Found. ' Fin et char- mant bijou, qui reunit un ingenieu.x arrangement et un dessin correct (?) a la plus exquise delicatesse dupinceau. ' (Viardot.) 'A charming gay cabinet picture, ascribed by some to Tintoretto. ' Claude de Lorraine. 1989. Sunset. A landscape, with an anchorite on the foregi-ound. The figure is by Francesco Allegrini da Gubbio ; wild scenery, somewhat dark. Il truly is 'a place of prayer, and a sort of prison, wherein I chained my miserable body,' as St. Jerome describes one of those secluded rocky retreats of the earliest solitude-seeking Christians. Almost all the Claudes here are pendants, and of value. N. Poussin. 2056. A Landscape. On the fore- ground, to left, Diana asleep, watched by a satyr ; on the light an Amour, or messenger of Love, is busy picking flowers. (These two paintings, witli most of the Claudes and the Toussins, are now in Rotunda 2. ) Ecmbrandl. 1544. Queen Arthemisa about to swallow the ashes of her husband. Superb ; a masterpiece of this king of chiaroscuro. The pseudo-oriental cos- tume is beautifully painted. It is signed, ' 1634— Rembrandt f." It is thought to represent the wife of the artist, Saskia Van Uyleniburg, Avhom lie married June 22, 1634. Pubens. 1558. The Brazen Serpent. It is signed, a very exceptional case with this painter. It must be looked upon as one of his masterpieces. 'And Moses made a serpent of brass and ])ut it upon a pole, and it came to pass that if a serpent had bitten any man, when he beheld the serpent of brass he lived ' (Numb. xxi. 6-9). A replica in the National Gallery. No. 1558 is now (1895) in the Dutch and Flemish Room. 1606. Portrait of Maria de Medici. ^''ery fine ; a sketch from a large paint- ing in the gallery of Luxembourg. 1565. St. George and the Dragon. Van Dyck. 1330. The Earl of Bristol and the Painter. The former, to the right, dressed in white ; to the left, the painter, di'cssed in black. Compare the effect, not the means employed, produced by portraits by Velazquez, and those by Van Dyck. 1322. The Countess of Oxford. ' Un des plus prodigieux et des ])lus ravis- sants de son ceuvre entiere.' (Viardot) In a corner of the painting is the in- .scriptiou, 'The Covutes of Oxford — A. Van Dyck, 1C38.' ]320 Portrait of Libcrli, an Ant 282 MAOllID — I'ICTURE-GALLKRY. werp orj,'auist. Probably dates ten years before lie paiutetl that of the Countess of Oxford, and was executed during his residence at Antwerp. 1335. The Treacheiy of Judas. May be considered his masterpiece. The head of Christ is magnificent ; ex- pressive of deep cont(.'mpt and divine resignation. The colouring, effect of torchlight, etc., are all wonderful. In the composition, hypercritics find some confusion, and Ijliime the threefold action. Van-dcr-Vcydcn. (Beginning of 16th century ; born at Brussels.) 1818. Descent from the Cross. Wood or gilt background ; very fine indeed. Corrcgijio. 135. Holy Family. The authenticity of this picture has been doubted, but with less reason than that of same master, No. 133. Titian. 236. A mystic subject. An exvoto, reineseuting St. Brigit offering flowers to the Infant Deity, placed in His mother's arms, whilst Hulfus, her husband, stands by her side, clad in armour. The very best judges all say it is a Titian, and one of his master- pieces. The able director, Sr. Madrazo, is convinced, among others, that this magnificent picture is by him, and not by Giorgione, to whom it has been hitherto ascribed and put duwn in the catalogue. 451. Oniriiig to Fecundity. 'Of marvellous, incredible execution ; far outstrips Albano, the poet of secrets and love. This was the picture which, when at Rome, in the Ludovici Palace, was studied and so often copied by Poussin, and contributed to improve his colouring, somewhat cold and life- less at that time, teaching him more- over how to paint those playful children which threw such charm over several of his compositions, especially on that of the Bacchanal.' (Yiardot. ) 450, A Bacchanal. In the foreground the fair Ariadne is asleep, having been abandoned in the Isle of Naxos by the faithless Theseus. Dances, copious libations, and Teniers-like detail, fill up the picture. On a height, Silenus asleep, and in the distance the ship bearing Theseus is seen sailing away. It is one of this master's finest pictures. Moro. (Anth. Jloor; born at Utrecht, 1512.) 1484. Queen Mary of England, the wife of Philip II. The artist was sent to England to take the likeness of Bloody Mary for Philip II. For that of the queen he received £100 and a gold ring, besides his salary of £100. The full-length portraits at Wubum, in the possession of the Duke of Bedford, seem likely to be originals, from which the present half- length portrait would be a copy (may be by Moor himselQ. Waagen, however, doubts their genuineness. There are portraits of Mary by Moor at Hampton Court and at Castle Howard. Zurharan. 1120. St. Peter Nolasco asleep. An angel in a vision points to him the Heavenly Jerusalem. Very fine and a masterpiece of the ' Spanish Cara- vaggio.' iliirillo, 866. The Infant Saviour giving to drink out of a shell to St. John, a Shepherd-boy. Known as ' Los Niuos de la Concha.' An ex([uisite painting, one of the master's finest. 859. Adoration of Shepherds. 'Per- fect. Observe the coutnrst of the divine group of Jesus and His mother to the strictly human one of the shepherds led by an angel near the cradle. lu MADRID — PICrURE-GALLEUY. 283 the reiiresentation of these clods, cf their sheepskins, of their clogs, the artist displays a power and truth never eiiualled before.' (Viiirdot. ) Vela::quez. 1058. The Drunkards ('Los Borra- chos'). 'One of the master's finest works. The humour and feeling are only surpassed by the execiition, which, in details, such as the bowl of wine, is most marvellous. At the same time, the whole picture has the force and breadth of Caravaggio or Kibera.' (Sir E. Head.) Before this masterpiece, Wilkie, who studied Velazquez very especially, used to sit for hours in silent and every day more intense admiiation. For everything is perfect in this mock coronation of a drinker by his drunken comrades — grouping, expression, col- ouring, intencion, as the Spaniards say. We know only two beings worthy of appre- ciating all the merit of the lanzas and the borrachos, and both personify two sides of the Spanish national character — Don Quixote, whose eyes on seeing the former would flash with pride and martial ardour, and Sancho Panza, whose lips would smack before the latter — a group, and scene, and art after his own heart. 1092. Portrait ; supposed to be that of a jester in the reign of Philip IV. 1001. Portrait of ilontafies. 1078. The Infanta Margarita Maria of Austria, daughter of Philip IV., the same which we see in the Meninas. 1061. ' Las mianderas ' (now in long central room, on the right). Whilst in the foreground several women are spinning, and otherwise employed in pre pari ng materials for making tapestry, in the background a specimcD of the manufacture is being shown to ladies. The subject of the tapestry is the 'Rape of Europa,' from the painting by Titian, once in Senor de Jose Madrazo's valu- ;il)lo collection, from which it passed to Marquis de Salamanca's gallery now dispersed. The interior represents the celebrated carpet and tapestry manu- facture of Santa Isabel, cstablislied at Madrid, concerning whicli, and Goya's cartoons, see Cruzada Villaniil's 'El Arte en Esjiatla. ' Ribcra. 982, Jacob's Lailder. One of his masterpieces ; in his transition manner, hovering between Caravaggio and Cor- reggio. The sombre, fiery, powerful genius of that true painter of the In- quisition and anatomists, is seen hero in all its character. The monk at the foot of the ladder is a semi-bandido, Spanish mendicant. The type is com- mon, but how forcible the execution ! how wild the scenery ! what elfccts of light on the whole ! A. Diirer. 1316. Portrait of himself, signed 1498, Albrceht Diirer and his mono- gram, and the words ' Diess malt icli nach meine Gestalt ; ich war sechs und zwanzig jar alt,' and was, therefore, twenty-six when it was painted. It has been engraved by him. Bronzino. (Angelo Allari.) 67. A poi-trait. Holbein. 1398. A portrait, and truly one of ' Un hombre a una nariz pegado,' as Quevedo has it. It is excellent. Palma tlie Elder. (Beginning of 16th century. ) 322. Adoration of Shepherds. Room on right of Entrance llall. Ribcra. 1004. Prometheus. It is .^schylus translated on canvas by a Spanish In- quisitor. Never was torture, immortale sccur, physical pain, represented with that energy, that furia of colour, and boldness of outlines. 1000. San Koipie and his Dog. 284 MADRID — I'lCTLTRE GALLERY. Murillo. 871. Coiivcis.ioii of St. Paul. Tlie tlii^^li of the Apostle and the liorse have been rciiaiiited. 807. Tortiait of Father Cabauillas, a monk. Mazo. 789. Poiiiait of a captain iu the reign of I'hilip IV. Zurbaraii. 1132. Sta. Casikla. Boom on left ol' Entrance Hall. Salvalor Rosa. 356. View of the Bay and City of Salerno. 'Un pcu de paleur dans le ton general.' (Viardot.) The details of sea, land, and sky, are nevertheless handled with the usual mastery of that painter. Sassofcrrato. 393. The Infant Deity asleep in His mother's amis. Kotunda (Frenchi and German Schools).* N. Poussin. 2043. llount Parnassus. On the foreground the Nymph Castalia and her urn : ' Drink deep, or taste uot the Cas- talian spring ! ' In the distance rises the steep hill, on which Aiiollo stands, welcoming a poet whom Tlialia and Calliope are crowning with laurel. On one side Dante, Petrarca, Ariosto, and other Italian poets are grouped ; on the other the classics. Homer ('Questi k Omero, poeta sovrano '), Virgil, Horace, etc., thus placing on a parallel the great ages of Pagan and Christian Italy. 2040. A landscape, one of his best here. * The />assilios, or corridors, round the Ro- tunda are filled with comparatively indifferent pictures. 'I'he Flcmiili and Dutch pictures here are of very great importance, and most numerous. Tlieir genuineness is undoubted ; and tliey have all escaped over -varnish, re- painting, and other such-like luuidling. GasjHir Dughct. 153. A very fine landscape, with cas- cades, view of a city, and on the fore- ground the Magdalene, etc. Claude de Lorraine. 1087. A Landscape, the Rising Sun ; subject, the female Roman Saint, Paula, embarking for the Holy Land, very fine ; the figures by Jacques Courtois. 1988. A Landscape, Setting Sun ; subject, Tobit and the Angel. The figures by J. Courtois. These two, with tlie Moses Found, and a View of the Coliseum, were painted for the King of Spain, and the sketches were preserved by the master and collected carefully. This collection passed from the Flink collec- tion at Rotterdam, into that of Devouhhire House, and was engraved in Londun by Earlom, in 1777. The Claudes here are all undefiled. Wattcau. 2083. Une Fete Champiitre. It is the original, we believe, of the cele- brated 'ilarioe de Village.' 2084. A Fountain in the Pare de St. Cloud. Lucas Cranach. 1304 and 1305. Hunting the Deer. The stout, Falstafl'-looking Elector of Sa.Kony, Frederick III., is a prominent feature in the scene. In the distance on a height rises the old dueal palace of Wittemberg. Jerome Bosch (1450-1518). 1175, 1176, etc. Adoration of the Magi, and Temptations of St. Anthony (four pictures, now iu Saloues de Al- fonso XII.) Room on the right of tlie French and German Schools— (Flemish and Dutch Schools). Van Dyck. 1327. Portrait of Henry, Count de Berii. AfADRlD — PICTURE-GALLERY. 285 1320. A Cav.ilicv. All excellent. Snyder. 1083. iEsop's Fable of the Lion and the Mouse (so admirably translated by La Fontaine). 1091. Quanclsome fowls. Adniiraljle! Brmghel. 1274, 1279. Landscapes, with a mar- keting and junketing. 1245. Landscape (with St. Eustace by Rubens). JVouvermans. 1832, Sportsmen fording a liiver. Very fine. 1834. Departure from an Tnn. 1835. Halt at a Country Inn. Ruhens. 1566. Rudolph of Hapsburg lends his Horse to a Priest, who is bearing the 1 lost. Rudolph's head and attitude are admirable. The landscape is by Wildens. 1611. The Garden of Love. 'An exfpiisite composition, remarkable, as much for the delicacy and warmth of the touch, as for its details.' (V.) A smaller replica at the Dresden Gallery, probably the sketch of this one. (1611 now in the Sala Isabel IL) The lady accompanied by a cavalier, on the left and on the foreground, is the portr.-«it of Helene Fourment, the p.iinter's second wife ; the types belong to the ' fat, fair, and forty ' family, especially patronised by George IV. 1600. Portrait of Thomas Slorus. Superb. 1585. Ceres and Pomona. 1561. Holy Family. There is a copy of this picture in our National Gallery. Teniers. 1752. A Lantlscape. A Gipsy Scene. 1733. La Graciosa Fregatriz (bur- nisher, scrubber, as in the celebrated verse, ' en una de frcgar cay<5 caldera '). One of his best here. 1754. Temptations of St. Anthony. A favourite subject with this painter, and with the usual detail of an egg out of which a pullet's head is peeping ; but his Kermesses arc his triumph. Observe No. 1720 and his monkeys, los monos de Teniers, Nos. 1738, 1739, and 1743. (Notice all these Temptations of St. Anthony, and scenes from rustic life. They arc all finely painted, however repulsive they may be in some respects.) Snyder. 1678-94, and 95. Verj' fine Dog and Game Subjects. P. Neefs. 1504, etc. Several Gothic Chnrch Interiors. Caviare perhaps to the general, but very fine works. Van Dyck. 1328. Portrait of a Musician. 1325. Charles L on Horseback. A replica in reduced proportions of that at Hampton Court. Flemish and Dutch Room to Left. Ruhens. 1004-5. Portraits of Archduke Albert and his wife Lsabel. The landscape in both is by Breughel. 1581. Banquet of Tereus. Very port'crful. 1590. The Judgment of Paris. A fine study of flesh painting. 1610. Portrait of a French Princess ; probably a replica of that at the Louvre, of Elizabeth, daughter of Marie de Medici, who was married to Philip IV. (1615). Very fine. 1592. Diana and Calisto. Splendid colouring. 1613. Adam and Eve. Copied from Titian for Charles I. of England. (See No. 456 in the long gallery). 1586, Nymphs and Satyre 286 M ADRI 1) — I'lCTURE-GALI-ERY. 1587. Ditto. IJoth very fine. 1591. The Tlncc Graces. Tlic models for tlicse, and many of his nymjdis and other female subjects, were not Flemish, as is often thought, but three Italians — a mother and her two daughters, named Capaio, who lived in Paris, Rue du Verboi.s. Such at least is Rubens' own statement, in a letter published in the ' Archives dc I'Art Fram;ais.' D. Tcnicrs. 1747. The painter showing to the Archduke Leopold AVilliam the picture gallery which he had formed at his order. The master signed ' Pintor de la Camera (for Camara)de S. A. S.' (Su Alteza Sereni'sima). It is cuiious and important, as the pictures hung on the wall are all well known, and painted in the style of the dillcrent masters. Danae, Calixtus, etc., by Titian and others, are here represented- Van Dyck. 1336. Diana and End3'mion. 1338. A fine portrait of the Marquesa de Lcganes (Polixena Spiuola), whose touching letters to the King, craving his royal mercy in favour of her hus- band in exile, we have had occasion to admire in a large collection of decrees, letters, etc., to and from Philip IV., which the British Museum acquired from us in IS 62. Antonio Moro. 1488. Full-length portrait of Maria, wile of Maximilian II., daughter of Charles V. 1487. Maximilian II. when young. (Obser\e all the admirable portraits by Moro, 1483-1495.) The Sala de Descanso contains few paintings of any great merit. Observe the two fine portraits of Charles IV. and his Queen Maria Louisa (riding astride as was then the fashion) by Ooya — that racy, truly national, original piiinter of modern Spain. There are several poitrait? of the royal family. Some good copies, etc. Notice also, as a key to many Cosas de Espana, a series of portraits of the Bourbon dynasty, beginning with Philip V. and his family, painted by Vanloo. The names of the personages jiaiiited, and artists, arc given on each picture. From the corridor at the southern end dividing the two series, German and Dutch cabinets, a staircase leads upwards to an insignificant collection of old drawings (but some good Alonso Canos), and down to the ground floor to the new ' Goya ' rooms and the Sculpture Gallery. The Goyas richly deserve a visit. In Rooms I. and II. (to the right) are placed the designs made for the Royal Tapestry Manufac- tory, also some characteristic drawings of a similar purjiose. In Rooms III. and IV. will be found the artist's clever studies for his large picture of the Family of Charles IV., his portrait of Bayeu, his own portrait, by Lopez, a Crucifixion, the Picador, and a couple of vigorous paintings commemorative of the rising against the French in May 1808 — No. 734, Execution of Spanish Citizens, and No. 735, Comliat with French Mamelukes. The Gallkry of Sculptuue, a Rotunda and three rooms, contains few remarkable works. In the Rotunda is a Group of Wrestlers, in porphyry, and in the passage hard by a good copy, in bronze, of the Borghese Herm- aphrodite. Room I. is chiefly occupied by Renaissance work — medallions of Charles V. and his wife, Isabella of Portugal ; Pompeio Leoni's statues of Charles V., Philip II., Isabella of Portugal, Maria of Austria, in bronze ; the same artist's marble statue of Charles V. and Isabella ; a marble bust MADRID — nOTURE-GALLERY. 287 of I'rincess Leonora, sister of Charles v.; and analahaster bust of I'liilii) II. ; also a fine grouji (Charles X. conquering Tunis) allegorical of the triumph of Virtue over Rage. Kooni II. contains copies from the antiijue and some Koman armour. The 'Sala Ovalada,' below the Sala de Isabel II., has some remarkable sculjiture brought here from La Granja, l)elonging originally to Queen Christina of Sweden — the Muses, Ganymede and the Eagle, a 'Cowering Venus,' four reliefs of Dancing Bacchantes, a co])y of the Cireek statue of Hj'pnos (Sleep) of the 4th century, and some busts. Pictures removed to IIia Museo from the suppressed Miiseo Nadoiml de la Trinidad : — No. 2124. Gircro. Crucifixion. Is supposed to have belongrd to the In- quisition Church at Toledo. No. 2125. G. F. Pcnni {II Fallorc). A very fine copy of Raphael's Trans- figuration ; ordered by I'ope Clement VII. He differs in some points from the original composition. Nos. 2126 to 2133. Ticpolo— ISth century. Scenes from the Passion of Our Lord. From Convent of S. Felipe Keri. Nos. 2139 to 214S. Bcrruguctc (a Spanish painter of end of loth cent.). Nine pictures representing scenes from tlie annals ofthe order of St. Dominick ; ordered by the celebrated Inquisitor Torqucmada. From Convent of St. Thomas at Avila — curious. No. 21G3. Goj/a — His own portrait. 21G6. An exorcised 'creepy' realism. No. 2184. The catholic kings jn-ay- ing to the Blessed Virgin and Child. I'lchind King Ferdinand is the Inquisi- tor Torquemada. Fainted about 1491. No. 2188. Triumph of the Church over the Synagogue. Ascribed to Jan Van Eyck by Cavalcaselle, and to IL Van Eyck by Passavant. No. 2189. R Van dcr Wcijdrn, the Crucifixion. A very fine and most authentic original. From Convent de los Angeles at Madrid. REAL ACADEMIA DE BELLAS ARTES. This collection of pictures, etc., founded in 1752 as the Academia de Nolilcs Artes de San Fernando, is situ- ated in the Calle Alcald, No. 11, and is open daily, 10-12, 2-4 (pajfclcfa, fee A-1 pes.). The contents are mostly un- important, but there are some gems : Bias del Prado. — A fine ' Fundacion ' of N. S. de Loreto. Ribera. — St. Jerome. Very jiowcr- fully painted. Zurbaran. — Four Monks. Some- what dark ; the cast of the draperies admirable. Murillo. — The celebrated Tifioso, which rcjuesents St. Elizabeth, Queen of Hungary, healing the lepers. ' Nothing can be conceivevherein are housed (i) The National Library ; (2) the Archaeo- logical Museum ; (3) the Natural History Museum ; (4) the National Collection of Modern Paintings ; (5) the National Archives. Of these the Miisco Arqueolfigico is the most important. The building is situated on the Paseo de Recoletos, with entrances from the Paseo and in the Calle de Serrano. The mi'Uotixa Nacional (entrance from the Paseo) is open, free, from 10 to 4 o'clock (closed on Sundays and holy days). Originally founded by Philip V., in 1744, it has grown slowly (notably increased in 1886, by the purchase of the Duke of Osuna's MSS.) until it now occupies thirty -five rooms, and boasts of up- wards of a million volumes (2000 ' incunables' and 800 editions of Don Quixote). It is chiefly rich in Spanish work, and the noble reading- room is generally empty. The MS.S. are of especial v.iluc, fine specimens being shown in cases. The MSS. of the nth .and 12th centuries (' Beatos ') and the illuminated missals of the 14th and 15th centuries are interesting. The Arch'mo Nacionnl, on the first floor, contains a number of documents from the suppressed monasteries, and a Codex of Justinian of the 13th century, etc. The Museo Arqiieoligico (entrance in the C. de Serrano, free, but small fees to attend.ants) is open 7 to i in summer, 1 1 to 5 in winter, 9 to 12 on Sundays, closed on holy d.ays and festivals. Ground Floor. — N. Wing : Prehistoric and Ante-Christian Antiquities. Room I. : early Iberian articles in esparto grass from the Cueva de los Murciolagos, Albuiiol, Granada, stalactites, ceramic vases, a dolmen from the Abamia valley, a section of Quaternary ground from S. Isidro, Madrid. Room II. : Oriental, Egyptian, Coptic, etc., antiquities, fine sar- cophagi, mummies, papyrus tablets, personal adornments, skulls, bones, etc., and some Coptic fabrics of centuries 4-8. Room III. : Grseco- Phanician objects found in the Cerro de los Santos, Yccla, Albacete ; a sphinx from Palarde ; a series of wonderful heads and figures in sand- stone ; by window wall and on tables agri- cultural implements, spear-heads, etc. ; in front of windows three Toros de Guisando (near Avila), and in glass cases archaistic bulls' heads in bronze, from Mallorca, some interesting gold ornaments, early Iberian earthenware, bronze idols, etc. Room IV. : Roman and Etruscan sculptures and bronze vessels ; on the right, close to the centre window, bronze tables (Roman) from Osuna, containing portions of the statutes given by Julius Caesar to the colony of Genetira Julia ; bronze figures of Minerva ; a bronze t.ablet from Italica. Room V. : series of splendid v.ises, Etruscan, Corin- thian and Attic ; in middle case, Attic lecythi (oil-flasks) of 4th century ; Greek dish of same pcrio' font and some inscriptions. Room ii. contains a series of sarcophagi, tombstones and figures- Peter the Cruel, Dona Costanza de Castilla (alabaster) — also a collection of locks, keys, and plates. Descending now to the South Cottrt, we find a long array of Moorish and Mud^jar remains, all carefully labelled, also two astrolabes, the keys of Oran, a ^^oorish hanging lamp, a vase similar in style to the great Alhambra vase, a marble well-head, and a pila de abhiciont:s of the loth centurj'. In Room iii. are placed the fine choir-stalls from the Convent of El Paular (Segovia), carved chests of the 15th cent., and a number of ecclesiastical vestments. Room iv. contains several i6th cent, astrolabes, an altar in terra- cotta after Delia Robbia, another with scenes from the Passion enamelled in copper, an ivory crucifix ' Ferdinandus Rex,' a litter of the iSth cent., some fine coffers (16-17 cents.), a locked case of splendid jewels from Toledo and Elche, etc. Rooms v. and vi. show specimens of later work — porcelain from the Buen Retiro and Moncloa ; Sevres, Dresden and Wedgewood china, and, on the walls of No. v. some splendid tapestry of the 17th cent, with animals and plants in relief; also a Portuguese bed, a series of ecclesiastical vestments, and costumes on lay figures a la Goya. The Ethnographical Museu»i is on the first fl'X)r, ascending from these modern rooms of the archaeological collection. Here, in the North Wingssfi: Room i., some reproductions of Mexican etc. sculptures (see especially the ' Aztec Calendar stone ' and tables from Sta. Lucia, Guatemala, also the curious gods). Room ii. contains Taino (an extinct race of the Antilles) antiquities, also objects from Quito, Nicaragua, etc. See especially an Aztec sacrificial stone, in the centre of the room, commemorative of the victories of one Tizoc, a Mexican chief. In Rooms iii. and iv. are Peruvian antiquities — woven garments, clay vessels, idols, feather shields, etc., also, in the middle of the room two famous Maya MSS. ' U (Codice Troano, Codice Cortesiano) and the collection of gold objects brought from Columbia in 1892 and known as the Tesoro de los Quimbayas. Room v. gives us a series of curiosities from Patagonia, Pent, Ecuador and North America, including a set of Mexican figures and a curious boat, and Room vi. a quantity of modern Peruvian terra-cotta ware. Room vii. is in the South Wing, and contains a collection of Turkish, Persian, and Indian objects, also some Chinese statues, and a head of Buddha, from the temple of Boro-Budor in Java. There are more Chinese articles in Room viii., garments, porcelain, some very fine blue vases, and ivory and bronze work. Room ix. contains a collection from the Philip- pine Islands and the Malay Archipelago ; also some curious feather cloaks from the Sandwich Islands. In Rooms x. and xi. are located the splendid collection of gems, cameos, and coins from the old Museo ."Vrqueoldgico, a right royal series of some 200,000 objects, many of great value. Note especially a black onj-x with a woman's portrait, the cameos and the early Spanish and Greek coins. The Museo de Arte Moderno is situated on the first floor of the Biblioteca, entrance from the Paseo de Recoletos. This collection is not yet (1898) arranged, but can be visited by bribing an attendant, or by apply- ing to the Director, Sr. Jladrazo, 23 Zorilla. It consists of a fine series of modern paintings and various sculp- tures, the whole installed in seven rooms. The sculptures are mostly in- dill'erent, by the Spanish artists J. Alvarez, .J. Gines, F. Moratilla, L. Piquer, etc., with a few pieces by Canova, Gros, Tadolini, and other foreigners. The most noticeable are, an allegorical group of the defence of Zaragoza by Palafox (Alvarez), a ' Venus and Cupid ' by Gines, ' Mars and "Venus ' by Canova, a Venus by Tantardini, F. Moratilla's 'Faith, Hope and Charity,' and a San Juan de Dios by E. Martin. The paintings, which are carefully labelled, deserve more attention, and well represent the work of F. Madrazo, Vicente Lopez, Mercade, F. Pradilla, F. Domingo, J. 290 MADRID — LIBRARIES, Casado, Lenbach, Rosa Bonheur, Alma Tadema, A. B. Gil, and a host of other men of worth. The Natural History Museum is on the ground floor of the N. portion of the great building, entrance from the Paseo de Eecoletos, and contains the fine collection brought here from the Calle Alcala — mammalia, fishes, birds, minerals, fossils. See especially the unique fossil of the megatherium, found in 1789 near Buenos Ayres, in the river Lujan, the collection of Spanish marbles and metals, the huge loadstone {piedra iman) weighing6 lbs. and supporting 60, a whale's skull with jawbones, etc. There are many public and semi- public libraries in Madrid worth notic- ing. Among these are : the Bihliotcca de San Jsidro, adjoining the church of that name (80,000 vols.); the Biblio- teca de la Univcrsidad, Calle Ancha San Bernardo (24,000 vols.) ; the iine Biblioteca de la Real Academia de Eistoria, Calle Leon, No. 21, open daily, and containing among other vahiable MSS. the only autograph letter extant of Cervantes, bequeathed to the library by the Marquis de San Ramon ; the Biblioteca of the Duke of Veraguas, San Mateo, 7 and 9, con- taining interesting MSS. on Columbus, the Duke's ancestor. Churches. — Madrid can hardly be said to have a cathedral as yet, whilst Zaragoza, Cadiz, and other provincial towns, have two. In 1576 Philip II. was asked to build one, and 12,000 ducats were assigned out of the archi- episcopal rent, but the Escorial, his cathedral of cathedrals, could tolerate no rival, and the project was aban- doned. In 1623, Philip IV. 's pious queen renewed the scheme, and ob- tained from the king a sum of 70,000 ducats, to which the towTi added 50,000 more. The first stone was even laid down behind the church of Sta. Maria ; but, from several circumstances, the building was once more abandoned. A splendid pile, half Romanesque, half pure Gothic, is now in course of erec- tion close by the royal palace, and should be visited. Begun in the year 1885, and estimated to cost £1,000,000 sterling, the next generation will hardly sec the roof on, at the present rate of construction, even if the whole scheme be not abandoned from want of money or other adverse circumstances. The basement, purely Romanesque in char- acter, and excellent alike in plan, detail, and finish, will, ir is hoped, be ready for use in 1897 ; but the hard nature of the material which is chiefly used for the work (a sort of marble), together with the exigencies of an empty coffer, makes progress very slow. A model of the complete work is to be seen in the bishop's palace, hard by. The usual features of thechurches are: — nave, transept and lofty lantern, heavy broad pillars .semi-attached to the white- washed walls, large square windows without painted-glass, tawdry chapels with cumbrous altars and indifferent pictures and images ; churrigueresque facades and ornamentation ; filthy pavements, doors, etc. The principal are — San Francisco el Grande. — Reached by the Viaduct of Segovia, at the end of the Calle Mayor. A former convent, founded by that patriarch, when he came to Madrid in the 13th century, on his way to Santiago. Hero was buried Clavijo, Camarcro (a chamberlain then, now applied to wait ers in hotels ! ) to Henrique cl Do- lien te, and his ambassador to Tamerlan. Here were also buried the fair and frail queen of Henry IV., Doiia MADRID — CHURCHES. 291 Juana of Portugal, and that mysterious personage of the 15th century, Enrique de Villena — a magician, a brujo, a mago (as said those who did not understand bis learning), whose books on this supposed magic, ' c de artes no cumpli- deras de leer,' were burned, by order of Henry .' IV. , by the king's tutor, 'Barrientos,' in the cloisters of Sto. Domingo el Real, at Madrid.* Many of the learned of that time lamented their loss, and one of them, ' el Bachiller Fr. Gomez,' in a letter to Juan de Mena, says indignantly, ' Ca son mnchos los que en este tiempo se fan dotos faciendo a otros insipientes e niagos, e peor es que fazan beatos faciendo a otros nigi-o- manes. ' The building was pulled down in 1760, and the present one erected on the plans of a Franciscan monk. Fray Francisco Cabezas, who built the cupola ; P16 and Sabatini finished it in 1784. It is a large, imposing edifice, in the shape of a vast rotunda, surrounded by seven chapels, 117 ft. diameter, 153 ft. high to cupola, and 125 ft. from the entrance to high chapel. The pictures are by the Velazquez (not, of course, the great man), Casado, Contreras, Ribera, and Goya. The church has lately been very gorgeously restored, the ceilings being painted by the Seiiores Ribera and Plasencia. Note the fine stalls ateast end, brought from El Farral, Segovia. * Some, however, escaped the faggot. Among the most remarkable are : Translations from Dante and Virgil ; Arte Cisaria, or Art of Carv- ing, printed 1766. Tlie iEneid is now in the Bib. Colombina, Seville ; his ' Libro de los Trabajos de Hercules ' is in the possession of S. Gayangos. Princes and kings in all coun- tries have sought always to read in the face of the heavens the truth which they found not around them, and besides this prince, Alfonso el Imperator was much given to astro- logy. His ' Del Tesoro,' wherein the philoso- pher's stone is mentioned and found, is in the Bib. Nacional. The ' Libro completo en los Judisios de las Estrellas,' in the Bib. Campo- manes. San Geronimo. — Close to the Retiro. Once a gem of Gothic at its best period, built by Enrique IV. The statues of kings, stalls carved in Flanders, pic- tures, etc., all disappeared during the truly ' infausta ' occupation of Madrid by the French. The Jura of the Princes of Asturias takes place here. Atocha. — The old ba.silica of the Atocha, built in 1523 and rebuilt by order of Ferdinand VII., has been lately pulled down. A new church is being erected, but will not be com- pleted till the beginning of the 20th century. The word ' Atocha ' is said to have been derived from two which were used in connection with a very ancient image — now black with age — of the Virgin Mary, reputed to have been carved by St. Luke, and brought to Spain from Antiocha or Antiochia, as the Spaniards wrote it. On the base of the statue is carved the word Tlicotokos, in Greek letters ; the image was often called Thcotoca, hence Nuestra Senora de Atocha. Until the church was dismantled the royal family were accustomed to attend it every Saturday afternoon, in half state, to join in the Salve sung at the shrine of the famous Madonna. This ceremony now takes place at the church of the Buen Succso, where the image has found a temporary home. The Atocha contains the tombs of the original founder, Hurtado de Mendoza, Charles V.'s confessor, of Bartolome de las Casas, 'el abogado de los Indios' (the celebrated Apostle of the Indians), of General Palafox, the great defender of Zaragoza, of Narvaez, Concha, and Prim (fine tomb of the last named, by Zuloaga). San Isidro. — In the Calle de Toledo. This church is at present used as the cathedral. It was founded by the Jesuits in 1567 ; and was pulled down and rebuilt in 1651, under the patronage of the Empress Maria 292 MADRID — CHURCHES. of Austria, after designs by the Jesuit Francisco Bautista. The high chapel was altered by V. Rodriguez. Here are the bodit'S of San Isidro (not Isidoro), the pious Madrilenian plough- boy, in the se^^'ice of the Condes de Onate, and of his not less pious better- half, Santa Maria de la Cabeza. The statue of the saint is by Mena, and the large painting of the Holy Trinity by Mengs. Several political saints are buried here also, and among them the artillerymen Daoiz and Velarde, the heroes ' del Dos de Mayo,' Donoso Cortes, etc. The faijade is very poor : four colossal columns and two pilasters rise to the very cornice ; two large un- finished towers flank the extremities. The cupola is effective, and the transept broad and spacious. The chapels are sombre, and contain no objects of interest. Sto. Domingo. — Founded 1219, by Domingo de Guzman, for a nunnery, especially patronised by kings. The choir was rebuilt for Philip II. by Herrera, in remembrance of his son Don Carlos, whose body lay here from 1567 to 1573. There are several princes and infantas buried here, and among them Berengucla, daughter of Alfonso the Learned. In the high chapel, erected by the Prioress Con- stanza, are the fine marble tombs of her grandfather, the Infante D. Juan, and that of the celebrated D. Pedro el Cruel, whose body lay forgotten in the hamlet of La Puebla de Alcocer, and was removed hither in 1444. His brother, D. Enrique, who had murdered him at Montiel, erected a paltry church for his interment near that place, and commemorated the murder in his will, signed at Burgos, May 1374, beginning ' In thanksgiving to God, through whose favour and mercies,' etc. A former statue of the king was re- moved during the French war to the cellars. The ashes of the Justiciero, as he was sometimes called, are buried in tlie Chapter-room. On the whole it is a most indifferent edifice. Santa Maria. — The earliest church in Madrid, now (1895) destroyed. Used by the Moors as a mosque, and its name 'de la Almudayna' (a granary), is certainly Arab, and was applied to the Virgin, a miraculous image said to have been found near a Moorish granary after the capture of the town by the Christians, San Antonio del Pardo. — Close to the Florida. This church, of no par- ticular architectural merit, deserves a visit on account of its fine frescoes by Gaza. It lies an easy walk from the Puerta del Sol, beyond the Northern Railway Station. San Andris. — An early church to which the Catholic kings, who lived on the site now occupied by the man- sion of the Duke of Osuna, contributed Philip V. began the chapel of San Isidro, tutelar of Madrid, in 1668 ; it cost 1,000,000 ducats. The barocco, heavy style, is well worthy of its archi- tect, Villarcal. The pictures are by Ricci and Carreno. Behind this church is the Capilla del Obispo, Gothic ; finished by Bishop Gutierre, but founded and begun in Charles V.'s time by Vargas, who had been a friend and councillor of the Catholic kings, whose reliance on his penetration was so great that it gave rise to the proverb, ' averi- guelo Vargas.' San Gines. — Rebuilt about 1642; very indifferent, except for a crypt, ' la boveda, ' where on certain days of the year, Lent and others, such ' ejer- cicios espirituales^ as flagellation, or MADRID — PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 293 pious wlnjipiug, take place ; but tlie custom is slackening, and the rods are no longer in great request. Observe here a paso of a Santo Cristo, by Ver- gaz, and Christ seated and stripped, by Alonso Cano. Las Salesas. — Built 1749 by Ferdi- nand YI. and his queen, Dona Barbara, for the education of noblemen's daugh- ters. It cost £83,000 ; Carlier was the architect. The fa9ade towards the garden is the best and most effective. It is on tlie whole a large and regular edifice, well proportioned, but with the tinsel and cumbrous ornamentation so much in vogue at the time. Ferdinand VI. 's sepulchre, by Sabatini and Guti- errez, is fine. A wit has said of the h'hole : ' Barbara Reyna, barbara obia, barbaro gusto.' In the 16th and 17th centuries most countries had an espe- cial church and hospital built for the exclusive use of their countrj'men, travelling or residents, and supported by them. Thus the English had ' San Jorge,' built in 1611, on the site of the present San Ignacio, in Calle del Prin- cipe ; the French, in 1615, built San Luis, where to this da}' the French at Madrid resort to hear sermons, etc., in their native tongue. The Italians founded that of 'el Nuncio,' or Los Italianos, in Carrera San Gerouimo, Tlie Portuguese built 'San Antonio,' which has some good frescoes by Gior- dano and Ricci. The Flemish, in 1606, erected that of ' San Andres,' etc. The religious festivities are devoid of the usual pomp displayed elsewhere ; and the procession of Corpus, Holy Friday, etc. , must not be seen here, but in To- ledo, Seville, Valencia, etc. Public Bviildings. — Toiim Hall [Casas Cmisistorialcs) is au oblong edi- fice of the middle of 17th century, with square towers at the corners, composed of two stories ; the interior is spacious, the staircase fine. The best fa5ade is that on Calle de la Almudayna, modern- ised by Villaneuva. The Custodia, a fine work of Alvarez, 1588, was stolen some years ago. On the site of the Town Hall stood formerly the Consejo de Madrid, built under Juan II. In this plaza took place the Autos Sacramen- tales. The Ayuntamiento or corpora- tion had the privilege (granted 1317) of managing everything connected M'ith these performances, to form the com- panies of actors, etc.* TJie National Bank of S^min stands at the corner of the Salon del Prado and the Calle Alcala. It is one of the finest public buildings in Europe, and cost about £1,000,000 sterling. See especially the splendid marble staircase, a masterpiece of modern Renaissance art. Audiencia. — This tribunal, now in Las Salesas, formerly occupied the site of an edifice built for a carcel de corte by the Marquis de Crescenci for Philip IV., and over the door was kept the * Inthebeginningofi7thcenturythecclebra- tion of these autos during the festivities of Corpus Christi ran thus :— The first and second autos were first performed on Corpus day at 4 p.m., in the palace, then again at the Conseja de Castilla, in the same plazuela ; and at night in the presence of the members of the Council of Aragon. Next morning the autos were per- formed before the Inquisition, the Corporation, and Ministerios. The public were not ad- mitted until the 8th representation. These semi- religious spectacles fell offafter 1664. Calderon, the celebrated Spanish author, wrote seventy- two autos, with /oas, by order of the ayunta- miento, to whose archives he bequeathed them ; most of them were stolen, but copies were left in their stead, the copyright of which the bookseller, Pedro Pando y Nier, purchased in 1716 for i6,5oor. 294 MADRID — PUBLIC BUILDINGS. inscription : — ' This Carcel de Corte was built for the safety and comfort of prisoners.' Casa de los CoTisejos. — Opposite the church of Santa Maria, begun in the reign of Philip III. by the Duke de Uceda. A tiue large solid building, well proportioned. The lottery is drawn here. Congreso {House of CommoTis). — Be- gun in 1842 by Seuor Colomer, and finished in 1850 on the model (!) of the French Corps Legislatif. In the centre of the principal facade is a tri- angular front, on the tympanum of which is represented Spain receiving Law, accompanied by Power and Jus- tice ; the execution of this satire is very clumsy, and no less so are the ferocious lions on the sides of the steps, one of which was singed by a cannon- ball in 1854. The interior is hand- somely furnished and decorated with pictures by Senores Madrazo, Rivera, Espalter, etc. Observe the fine one of the 'Comuneros,' by Gisbert, a rising painter. The public are admitted to j the Tribuna 2ncblica; but travellers | had better apply to a member for j ticket to Trihuna reservada. Members \ speak from their places. The ministe- : rial bench is called el banco azul. The j speakers most worth hearing are : — j Messieurs Castelar, Cauovas, P. Her- j rera, etc. j Senado [House of Lords). A poor ' building, but containing some fine paintings by Pradilla, etc. See especially the Surrender of Granada. Visitors arc admitted from ten o'clock till noon, by simple application to the chief porter at the gate. The Senado is in the Plaza de los Minis- terioa. rublic Offices.— Tho Homo Ofllce {Gohcmacion), formerly occupying Marquet's (a French architect) ugly square building in the Puerta del Sol, has been removed to very handsome ([uartors in the Paseo de Atocha, close to the Jardin Botanio. Tlie Miaisterio de la Guerra occupies a very fine large building, some 186 ft. long on each facade, near the Prado, and called ' de Buena Vista.' It was built by the Duchess of Alba, mother of the present duke, and afterwards purchased by the obsequious corporation to present it to Godoy, Principe de la Paz. We may also mention the very large and well- built Casa dc Moneda, the mint erected in Paseo de Recoletos ; the tobacco- manufactory; the Finance- Miaisterio, Calle de Alcala ; the Bank of San Fernando, a handsome building in Calle Atocha. In the Salon del Prado may be seen the handsome new Bolsa (Ex- change) ; and close by, in the Calle Felipe IV., near to the Picture Gallery, the fine building of the Real Acadeniia Espahola. The old ' Cibeles ' fountain, in the Calle de Alcala, is now removed further down the Salon. There are some fine and well-organ- ised hospitals — that of La Princesa, the expenses of which are about £8000 a year ; the Facultad de Medicina de San Carlos, a fine building ; Anatomi- cal Museo, etc. Frivale Houses. — The mansion of the DuJce of Alba, called Palacio de Liria, is low, but with a fine fa9ade built by Ventura Rodriguez, and contains a sumptuously-furnished suite of apart- ments, a picture-gallery, library, ar- moury, and a theatre. That of the Duquc de Villahermosa, in the Plaza de las Cortes, that of the Marquis de Casa Riera, etc., in Calle de Alcala, are large but commonplace. MADRID — SQUARES. 295 In the Paseo de Recoletos, which is the Madrid Avenue du Boia dc Bou- logne, several handsome hotels have been recently constructed. Observe amongst them the Italian palace of Marquis de Salamanca, now occu- pied by a bank. Here was formerly one of the finest private picture galleries and libraries in lladrid, which, like so many other aristocratic collections, has been dispersed. At the corner of the Alcala and Paseo stands the fine Palacio de Murga (no admission), with its frescoes by Pradilla. Farther on, to the left, is the imposing Convcnto de S. Pascual ; and beyond the Museos Nacioualcs the Casa de la Moneda (mint). Squares, Bridges, Streets, etc.— There are seventy -two squares in Ma- drid, most of which do not deserve the name. The principal are Plaza Mayor ; 434 ft. long, 334 wide, 1536 in circum- ference. This square is surrounded by an open portico (30 portales), divided by pillars rising 71 ft. high, which support the three stories of the houses. Several arched ways give ingress into it. On the site of a former one, which was made in the reign of Juan II., the present one was built for Philip III. by L. Gomez de Mora ; was begun De- cember 1617, and finished two years after, at a cost of 9000 ducats ; 4000 persons could lodge in the houses around, and the square on great festivi- ties would hold 50,000 spectators, when balconies were let for twelve ducats, a large sum then, but small in proportion to that paid at the royal bull -fights which took place here to celebrate the marriage of Queen Isabel II. In May 1620 it was inaugurated by a great funcion, in honour of the Beatification of San Ysidro, whose canonisation took place two years after. On June 1, 1623, Charles I., then Prince of Wales, was here present at a bull-fight ; and on August 21 caiias took place, when all the beauty and grandees gathered round the English prince, and when the king, to pay him court, led himself one of the ten cuadrillas. Charles sat close to his aflianced bride, the Infanta Maria, from whom he was separated by a slender railing. In 1631 a great portion of the S. side was destroyed by fire, and in 1672 another fire consumed the Panadcria. In the centre stands a superb equestrian statue of Philip III., executed by Juan de Bologna, from a drawing by Pantoja, and completed by Pedro Tacca. The horse looks like a prize cow, which is no fault of the artist, but of the breed. The Plaza is the rendezvous of the lower classes, and as such interett'ng to the artist. About Christmas it pre- sents a most animated sight — piles of oranges and sandias, droves of turkeys, sweetmeats, turrones and mazapanes, drums, panderetas, crowd it on all sides, converting it into a pandemonium of delights. Puerla del Sol. — Said to derive its name from one of the gates of Old Ma- drid, which stood here, towards the E. This is the heart of the city, from which the main streets diverge like so many arteries. It is the rendezvous of idlers as well as men of business, for here all come to deal with time, that precious metal which the wise man turns into gold, and the fool squanders. Tomar el sol is, however, the principal occu- pation, and endless cigarritos and schemes are puffed, which all end in smoke. All the lines of tramcars meet and diverge here. On the south side rises the imposing building lately occupied by the Home Ofiice, now (1898) about to be pulled down, as the new Gobernacion in the Atocha is finished. 296 MADRID — STREETS. Plazuela de la Villa (see Toicii Hall). The large bouse uear the Town hall was the palace of Cardinal Ximcnes, and the balcony is pointed out, looking to Calle del Sacramento, from which the cardi- nal, on his being asked, b}' a depu- tation of the irritated nobilit}', to show the letters -patent which gave him authority over them, answered, pointing to the formidable array of troops and cannons which were formed on the plain below — ' These are the powers by which I govern the king- dom, and I will continue to do so, until the king, your master and mine, comes to relieve me ; ' but his historian, Alvar Gomez, denies the fact, and adds that it is a bad imitation of Scipio's saying. Here also is the Torre de los Lujanes, where Francis I. was confined until removed to the palace, and from which, according to Mr. Scribe, in liis 'Contes de la Reine de Navarre,' he could plainly hear singing and the guitar played from the other side of the Manzanarcs, Plazuela de la Faja. — A large open square, where several autos-da-fe and political executions have taken place. It is the principal corn - market. Be- tween this and the Plazuela de la Villa is that de la Cruz Verde, in the centre of which stands a cross which marks the spot where the last auto-da-fe took place in Madrid. Plaza de Orientc. — E. of Royal Palace, cue of the earliest squares planted with trees, and which have since become general in Madrid. It is decorated with indifferent statues of kings and queens of Spain, which formerly stood on the stone balustrade of the jjalace. In the centre is a magnificent equestrian statue of Philip IV. on his war charger, a present of the Grand Duke of Tuscany. Montaiies carved the model in wood after designs by Velazquez, and it was cast at Florence, 1640, by Pietro Tacca. It weighs 180 cwt., and is 19 feet high. Galileo is said to have suggested tlic means by which the balance is so ad- mirably preserved. All the front por- tion is hollow, and the hinder massive. "When made it was valued at 40,000 doubloons. The bassi-relievi represent Philip IV. knighting Velazquez, an allegory, etc. Streets. — Tlie handsomest street is Calle de Alcald. Calle Montcra. — This steep street is lined with shops — half- way is the church of St. Luis, an indif- fei'cnt edifice — and terminates at a foun- tain. It derives its name from the fair wife of a Montero del Rey, who lived here. The portion around the church is called Eed de San Luis, a name ap- plied to markets where cattle and sheep were sold, and especially sheep, which are kept within esparto nets (redes). Cahallcro de Oracia, so called because Jacopo de Grattis of Modena, a knight of the order of Christ, died here at the age of 102 (1619). In the same street died also Anthony Asham, Cromwell's ambassador, who was murdered. May 6, 1650, by some English royalists, to avenge Charles I.'s death, for which Asham had voted. Just wliere the Ca- ballero de Gracia debouches upon the Calle Alcald, is situated the church of San Jose, which, with tlie Calatravas, also in the Alcald, shares the distinction of being the most fashionable church rendezvous of Madrid. Leganitos, Arabice al Gannib, gar- dens, orchards, which were here for- merly, extending to Calles de las Huer- tas and Jardiues ; these have long ago MADRID — STREETS. 297 disaiipeareil, and the roses that grow- here now have more thorjis tlian per- fume. Gates: Pucrta de Aladd. — Avery notable triumphal arch, built in the reign of Charles III., to commemorate his arrival at the Corte. It is 70 ft. high and consists of 5 arches. It was designed by Sabatini, and is decorated with Ionic columns, the capitals of which were moulded on those exe- cuted by M. Angelo for the Capitol at Rome. The Pucrta de Toledo is large but of no merit. It was built by Ferdinand VII. on his return from Valeu9ay. Bridges: PuctUe de Toledo. — Yery picturesque. Consists of nine arches, elegant and plain. Built on site of a former one in 1735 ; is 36 ft. wide and 385 long ; half-way are the statues of San Isidro and his holy wife. On the plains around it (to the left, next the gate) executions take place. Here the gallant General Diego Leon was shot, for supposed high treason, by order of Espartero, and fell a prey to party spirit ; and the Cura Merino, who stabbed Queen Isabella some years since, was garrotted and burnt. Public exe- cutions are now nnfrequent, their effect on the lower classes being homceo- pathic, and rather productive of crime. Puente de Segovia. — A well-built bridge after designs by Juan de Herrera, and all of stone. Nine arches, 31 feet broad and 695 long. Though much injured by the accumulation of sands and neglected, it is nevertheless a fine bridge, and deserves a river. The Mamanares. — This waterless river takes its source eight leagues off, near a small village of that name, flows N.W. to S.E., crosses the Prado, leaves the Casa de Campo to the right, and Madrid to left, and four leagues farther joins the Tarama. Like most rivers in Spain, it is but a mountain torrent produced by snows, and therefore almost dry in winter, and sometimes overflow- ing in the spring. Many therefore have been the pleasantries of which this poor stream has been the butt. The Canal de Manzanares, begun by Charles III., finished by Ferdinand VII., and which commenced at the bridge of Toledo and went as far as Vacia Madrid, has been recently suppressed. The Canal de Lo- zoya, or Isabel II., begins at Torrelaguna, and runs 70 k. into Madrid : the aque- ducts of Valdealeas and Sotillo, vrith the dyke of the Oliva Ponton, are the most important works. The engineer, Sr. Lucio del Valle, was created Mar- ques del Lozoya. Provi-hits. — The old Madrid of Lope de Vega and Calderon, the Madrid of Capa y Espada, of Cervantes and Gil Bias, Avas situated S. E. of the palace. About the Almudena, the Carrera de S. Francisco, Bajada de la Cuesta de la Vega, Cousejos, etc., lived, and still live, the great families of Malpicas, Infantados, Ucedas, Abrantes, Villa- francas, etc. The portion about Cava Baja, Calle Segovia, Pueita Cerrada, was the Moreria and Jews' quarter. These latter, very numerous in 14th and 15th centuries here, had a fine syna- gogue, and paid a tribute of 10,105 maravcdises. (Patron-general formed at Huete, 1348.) The physioian of Tenorio, Archbishop of Toledo, was a Jew, Maestro Pedro (1395). The Jews lived also on the heights of Las Vis- tillas. Promenades. — In the time of En- rique IV. the paseo was ' La Pedon- 298 MADRID — THE PRADO. dilla,' near the "V'istillas. The gentle- men rode on ponies and the ladies on mules, richly caparisoned, and riding on rudana saddles, or, d la gineta — that is, sideways — but more especially like men, which latter custom was iu use even as late as Charles IV. 's reign, whose queen adopted it exclusively. The Prado, as its name indicates, was an extensive meadow situated near the Eetiro, in whose palace the court of Philip IV. almost always resided. Charles III. turned it into a promenade, planting trees, and erecting the foun- tains, etc. The Paseo del Prado rcallj' extends from the Paseo de Atocha to Calle de Alcalii ; but what is more generally known as the Prado is el Salon, a mag- nificent walk 230 ft. broad, and situ- ated between Carrera de San Geroniuio and Calle de Alcald. The fountains are indifferent, and by Vergaz, Alvarez, etc. Notice, however, as exceptions, the Fuente de Neptuuo, by Francisco Gutierrez, and that of Cibeles, by Pascual de Mena. At the corner of the Alcald and Prado stands the magnificent building of the Bank of Spain, which well deserves a visit. Note especially the marble staircase. The obelisk 'Dos de Mayo,' on the eastern side of the Salon, in the garden CampodelaLealtad, was erected in com- memoration of a combat which took place here in 1808, between some paisanos, headed by three gallant artil- lery officers, Ruiz, Daoiz, and Velarde, and some French troops under General Lefranc, who were endeavouring (and finally succeeded) to obtain possession of the artillery depots of Monteleon. The Prado is now more frequented by the lower than the upper claf^ies, who prefer the Paseo do Ilccoictos. The hours are, during the winter, from 3 to 5 P.M. ; iu summer, 8 to 11 P.M., when the gas-lamps are lighted. Iron chairs, 10 centimes each, are placed in rows, and the air rings with ' Fosforos y ccrillas,' ' Agua fresca como la nieve, quien la pide ? ' ' A un perro chico, naranjas,' etc. The girls and boys form 'coros,' and sing whilst turning round, to the tune of ' a la limon ! h, la limou ! ' all screamed through the nose ; for the human voice and that of birds is not harmonious iu the south as it is in northern climes. The Paseo de Re- coletos is the favourite paseo from 4.30 to 6.30 P.M. It has been considerably improved recently. It is formed by a long broad avenue in the centre, a smaller to the left for horsemen, and walks on the sides, divided by shady trees for the multitude that goes on foot. The well-known fountain here, de la Alcachofa, has been transferred to the Ketiro. The equipages are very numerous, and well got up, and the horses, mostly English, or of the Tarbes breed, handsome and costly. The Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto, near the Manzanares, is frequented by the lower classes on holidays. It was a very fashionable resort in the 16th and 17th centuries ; and on the morning of St. John's Day, ladies went down to ' coger el trebol' ('ah, qu'il fait done bon, cueillir la f raise,' says the French song) ; and the Verbena nights were boisterous and animated, so much so, indeed, that, in 1588, that of San Juan was prohibited by the clergy, to pro- pitiate God, and deserve his protection in favour of the 'Armada Santa,' sent against the heretic English. The only Romcria now is that to San Isidro (May 15th), a small church erected by Charles V.'s queen ; repaired 1724, Go to it by all means, and look at the bucaro vases, cantaros, alcarrazas, pu- cheros with bells, etc. That of San Antonio, a small Hermita on the Florida MADRID. 299 (another promenade little frequented now), is the exclusive religious festivity of quadrupeds, whose patron that saint is considered to be. Strings of mules, horses, donkeys, flock to the shrine to be blessed by the priest. The mules on that occasion are shorn, esquiladas, and tasteful designs cut out in their hair, such as flower -vases, trees, etc. This pious pilgrimage is rigorously ob- served by grooms, wlio, in their zeal for the welfare of their masters' beasts, push on always to the shrines of god Carinena and goddess Cerveza, which are close by. Buen Retire [retiro, a retreat, seclu- sion, a refuge). — Here stood formerly a hunting-box, called 'El Cuarto,' and enlarged by Philip II., who added gal- leries and four towers, likening it to a villa in which he had lived with Queen Mary during his sojourn in England. It is now a small enclosed garden at the corner of the Alcald and the Salon del Prado, used for open-air concerts, etc., and is not to be confounded with the Ketiro, or Parque de Madrid. The Madrilenos resort to the Buen Retiro in summer for dinners and sujipers aud music. It is well lit with elec- tricity. Parque de Madrid. — The great ' breathing place ' of the city, and in the dpring and summer a charming resort. In the centre of this fine pleasure- ground, of 260 acres, and a scene of great animation on fine afternoons, is a largo pond, el estangue, with several pavilions. There was formerly a flotilla of boats, placed under the command of an admiral. In the menagerie, Casa de Ficras, live two or three octogenarian bears, a featherless hoary eagle, and half a dozen canaille- looking monkeys. Broad carriage drives intersect the Park in all directions, and here— carriages entering from the Vicalvaro — is the fashionable drive, in winter from 3 to 5, in summer from 5 to 7, the Paseo do Eernan Nunez being the most aristocratic resort. There are also numerous roads for riders and shady footpaths. The best fountains are the Alcachofa, at the S.W. corner of the Estanque, the Galapagos, at the N.W. corner, and the Angel Caido (fallen angel). From the Montana Rusa, at the N.E. extremity (with its Belvedere), a fine view of Madrid and the surrounding country is obtained. The cafes in the Park are not good. Barrio de Salamanca. — A new and most healthy quarter of Madrid, laid out by the wealthy and enterprising banker, the Marquis of Salamanca. It contains several magnificent mansions. Casino de la Eeyna. — In 1871 this small palace was turned into the Archaeological Museum, and since the transference of this collection to the Museo Nacionales, in the Paseo de Recoletos, it has been dismantled. Situated in the Embajadores, the place has had a curious history. At one time it was the lodging of dis- tinguished foreigners. Botanical Gardens. — Entrance oppo- site to picture-gallery (S. side). Has been turned into a jardin de adima- tacion. It contains little to interest botanists, and is ill kept. Open from 1st May to 30th Sept. from 4 P.M. till dark, and all the year round with permit from the Director, D. Miguel 300 MADRID — THEATRES. Colmeiro, who lives in Calle Clavel No. 2. Au iiKliU'creut conservatory and library. Botanical lectures in winter. Theatres, Bull-ring, etc. — Italian Opera. — Begun in 1818, and opened iu 1850. It is called Teatro Ileal, and is eituated close to the royal palace, between the Plazas del Oriente and Isabella II. Season runs from mid- October to the end of March. The price of the ciitrada (separate from that of the seat) is here 1^ pesetas ; at the other theatres 1 peseta. A box (un palco), 140 p. ; a stall (butaca), 12 p., the upper row of boxes, palcos principales are cheaper. N.B. — Two tickets must always be taken, one for box or stall, which is delivered to the keeper, and the entrance ticket (entrada) which is delivered at the door. Fashion- able visitors go to stalls. As to toilette, men go as they choose, except to the boxes, when they dress. Ladies dress a good deal. Bonnets can be worn at the stalls, but none in boxes. Low dress or demi-toilette is usual. The opera begins generally about 8.30, and ends at 12 p.m. The entr'actes are long ; the orchestra good and well con- ducted. Italian opera and ballet, and sacred music during Lent. The house is very elegant, and handsomely fur- nished ; it is capable of accommodating 2000 spectators, and the stalls and boxes are easy and comfortable. Not- withstanding the low prices, the com- pany is generally first - rate. The Government gives no subvention, and the empresarios ruin themselves, with the greatest possible certainty of doing so, when they take it up. Teatro Princesa. — In the Calle del Marques de la Ensenada, behind theWar Office. A handsome theatre, devoted to comedy and drama. Much fre- quented by tlie fashionable world of Madrid. Ladies need not dress, hoAV- ever, except in the boxes. La Zarztiela. — Calle de Jovellanos. It is a very pretty theatre, destined exclusively for the National Opera Comique. Palcos and plateaus, 15 p. at the bureau, and 20 p. at contaduria (without entrada). The entresuelos {rez-decliauss6e, literally), and princi- pales, same prices. Butacas, 3 pes. and 4 pes. at contaduria. 1 ]). each entrada ; the lowest is 3r., much frequented. Teatro Espanol. — Calle del Principe. The best theatre to have an idea of the actual Spanish drama. All the new plays are given here. Will contain 2000 spectators ; the best acting in Madrid. Except in first boxes, ladies can dress as they choose at either ; palcos de platea and bajos (without entrada), 35 pes. ; a stall, 4 pes. ; the prices, however, vary. Teatro Apolo. — Calle de Alcala. Comedies and light pieces ; short plays. Tickets may be taken for each section. Teairo de la Comedia, Calle del Prin- cipe, new and well arranged. Teatro y Circo del Principe Alfonso, originally built as a circus. Paseo de Recoletos 17. Now a large summer theatre. Novedades, Plazuela de la Cebada. — A low theatre ; popular dramas, farces. Circo de Parish (formerly de Price). — An English circus, in the Plaza del Rey. Very good. Circo de Colon. — A Spanish circus in the Plaza Alonso Martinez. Very popular in summer. MADRID — BULL-RING. 301 The opera begins in October and ends in April. Subscriptions are cheap. At some of the second and third rate theatres — Variedades, Lara, Eslava and Martin — the house is cleared at the conclusion of each piece. There are bad imitations of Mabille, Salle Valen- tino, Chateau-des-Fleurs, etc., at the Liceo Eius, in the Calle de Atocha. Prices, 6r. to lOr. The company is nombreusc, mais pas trhs choisie. The public and private gardens — from the Buen Retiro downwards — form the great rendezvous in the summer even- ings, from 9 to 11.30 P.M. The music at the Retiro is good. There arc masked balls at the different theatres ; but the only ones to which ladies go (in dominos, of course) are the Teatro RcaZ and Zar- zuela. The men go unmasked. The fashionable hours, twelve to four in the morning. The best society go to these. (For other festivities see General Information: Festivities.) Within the last few years the cele- brated old Basque game of Pelota has become exceedingly popular in Madriil, and several fine courts have been built. Visitors are advised to watch the game carefully. The best courts arc the Jai Alai, in the Calle Alfonso XII., and the Euskal-Jai, in the Calle del Mar- ques de la Enseuada. Plaza de Toros. — The Bull Ring is situated in the Calle de Plaza de Toros, turning out of the Calle Alcala, on the outskirts of the city, and was erected in 1874 at a cost of £80,000. The architects were Rodriguez Ayuso and Alvarez Capra. The huge building is rather effec- tive with its Moorish forms, and the best corridas in Spain are seen here to perfection. They usually take place on Sundays — beginning from April to September or October. The ring contains about 14,000 spectators. Ladiesdonotgoasmuch as they used, and the royal family scarcely ever. Spanish ladies who go wear the mantilla, which is there almost de riguexir, but foreign fair travellers can go in bonnets, as, after all, in them it is less remarkable and better taste. The prices are liable to change, but may be put down as fol- lows : — boxes in the shade {palcos de sombra), 75 p. ; palcos de sol y sombra, 35 p. ; de sol, 20 p. But these are most difficult to obtain, as they are almost all subscribed ; in that case travellers (both ladies and gentlemen) had better get delanteras de Grada, in the shade {sombra), which cost from 10 to 12 pesetas each. The bull fights generally begin about 3.30 or 4 p.m., and finish at 6 or 6.30 P.M., six bulls being the usual number of victims. (See General Infor- mation: Bull-fights.) Novill ados [yowng bulls with tipped horns) and mogigangas (men and women masqueraded), etc., take place now and then ; but they are low spectacles, seldom attended by any but the rabble. Prices then vary, and a box costs only 12^ p. for ten persons. There are private bull-fights, to which persons can go through acquaintance of the owners. The Duchess de Medina- Celi had one of her own, and her brother- in-law, the Marquis of Villaseca, was a distinguished torero. The monas which the bulls wear floating on their backs are thenrichlyembroidered,andmadeupby the fair who attend. The bulls Ri 9 chosen purposely very young, and as harmless as consistent with their nature. Sociedad de Caza (Hunt Club). — Composed of the cream of the rising generation, some sporting attaches, etc., harriers from England — some good runs now and then. Apply to the secretary. 302 MADRID. El Veloz (Jockey) Cluh, Alcala 15 ; Nuevo Cluh, Alcala 49. Cock-fighting.— Kt the Circo Gallis- tico ; worth a visit ; stalls and boxes. Much betting. On Sundays at 12 P.M. Cluls. — The Casino, Calle de Al- cala 18. Visitors admitted (at a small fee), for a fortnight, upon member's introduction ; if for longer have to be subjected to ballot, and pay 16 dollars on entering, and 30r. a month. Trente et quarante well attended, and much gambling. Foreign papers, reviews, etc. The Ateneo, 21 Calle del Trado, quieter ; reading and lecture rooms. If you understand the language, attend the lectures delivered here during the season by well-known men. Conditions almost same as for cositw. Cir- culo dc Comcrcio and Union Mercan- til. Two other second-rate clubs. Reading-rooms, Carrera San Geronimo No. 3, ground - floor, and Calle de la Victoria. Post Office. — Calle de Carretas, just off the Puerta del Sol. French and English letters are delivered at 10 A.M. Buzones cleared at 4.30 P.M., but letters may be posted at the General Post Office up to 6 P.M., and, with an extra 5 centimos stamp, up to 7 o'clock. (See General Information.) Telegraph O^'cc— Calle del Correo ; also Calle Juan de Mena, 2, and at sub-postal offices. British Emhassy. — Calle Torija 9. Hours, from 1 to 3. U.S.A. Legation. — Plaza San Mar- tin 3. Church of England Service. — Calle Leganitos 4. Sundays, 8.30, 11.30, 4 ; Saints' Days, 8 ; Chaplain, Rev. R. H. Whereat. Sj^anish Presiyterian Service upon the piso above ; twice on Sundays. Spanish Protestant Church and. Schools, Calle Beneficencia, 18. DlllECTORY. Tourist Office. — Thos. Cook and Son, Carrera de San Geronimo 5. Railway and steamship agents. Banking and exchange and general information office. Reading Room. Telegraphic address, 'Cook, Madrid.' Anliquiiies, dealers in. — Carrera de San Geronimo 44 ; Calle del Prado 20. Ajjothecaries. — Coipel, Barquillo 1 ; Moreno (mineral waters), Calle Mayor 73 ; Gayosa, Arenal 2. English pre- scriptions made up. Bankers. — Banco de Espana, Head offices, corner of the Alcala and Salon del Prado ; Thos. Cook and Son, 5, Carrci'a de San Geronimo ; Credit Lyonnais, Puerta del Sol 10. Baths. — Arabes, Velazquez 29 : very good ; De Oriente, Plaza de Isabel II. 1 ; Del Xorte, Calle Aduana 25, and Jardines 16 ; Niagara, Cuesta de San Vicente 14 ; Regiamar, Gorguera 14 ; Barquillo, 47. Booksellers. — Fernando F6, Carrera de San Geronimo 2 ; Romo y Fiissel, Alcala 5 ; Bailly-Bailliere, Plaza Santa Ana 10. Dentists. — Cadwallader, Alcala 2; Heddy, Alcahi 35. Diligences. — General Office, Alcala 13. Doctors. — Kispert, Arco deSta. Maria 41 ; R. M. Fenn, C. Quintana 26 ; Robert, C. de Peligros, 1. Homoeopathic, MADRID. 303 Hysern, Plaza de Jesus 3 ; Nuuez, Habana 3. Usual fee, 10 pesetas if consulted at home, 20 pesetas if sent for. Fancy Shops. — Hipolito Bach, Calle Alcala 52 ; Escribano, CaiTera de San Geronimo 8. Antiquities. — A good shop in the Carrera San rieronimo (44) ; also at 16 Calle Hortaleza. Glovers. — Magdalena, C. del Arenal 15 ; Gely y Compafiia, Puerta del Sol 10. Grocer, Wine Merchant, etc. — Prats, in the Calle Arenal. Hairdresser. — P. Genaro, Puerta del Sol 14. Ratters. — Gayan, Puerta del Sol 4 ; Guevara, Alcala 4. Jewellers. — Ansorena, Carrera de San Geronimo 2 ; for Toledo work, several good shops in the Calle Arenal ; also Loyola, Carrera San Geronimo 39. Maslcrs. — Fencing: Broutin, Plaza I del Rey 5. Music : Mas, Carretas ■ 22 (guitar) ; Inzenga, Desengano 22 (Spanish songs, etc.) Spanish : Cor- nelias, Carbon 8 ; Caballero, Alcala 23 ; Giner, Obelisco 8. Manila shawls and fans. — Serra, Caballero de Gracia 15.5 Mantillas, etc. — Almagro, Calle de la Cruz 38-42. Modistes. — llatilde, Alcala 38 ; Koch, Caballero de Gracia 1 7. Artificial fi,owers, Kuhn, Cruz 42, Money changers. — Several in the Puerta del Sol, also Cook and Son, and the Credit Lyonnais. Music - seller. — Romero, Capellanes 10. Optician. — Grasselli, Montera 5. Fcr/umers. — Villalon, Fuencarral 29 ; Perfumeria Inglesa, Carrera de San Geronimo 3. Photographers. — Napoleon, Principe 14. For views of Sjmin and the Musco pictures, Romo y Fiissel, Alcala 5 ; Hauser y Menet, Ballesta 30. Shoemaker. — Cayatte, Alcala 38. Stationer. — Rodriguez, Calle Car- retas 3. Tailors. — Roberts, in the Calle del Prado ; Iscrn, San Geronimo 16. Omnibuses and Trams ply from and to the different railway stations, and along all the principal streets. Special omnibuses run to the princi- pal trains from the Despacho Central in the Alcala, No. 14, for the Southern railway, from the Despacho Central, Puerta del Sol 9, for the Northern Railway. Fares, 2 reals : luggage, up to 40 kils., 25 centimos ; for every fraction of 10 kils. over 40 kils., 12 centimos. Private omnibuses, of 6 seats, may be hired d domicilio for 4 pesetas until midnight, and 6 pesetas from midnight until 6 A.M. 100 kils. of luggage free. For every fraction of 10 kils. in excess, 4 reals. Cabstands are to be found in the Puerta del Sol and many of the prin- 304 MADRID. cipal streets and plazas. When un- occupied a small tin card is stuck up on the corner, with the words se alquila. The tariffs are arranged, as at Barcelona, in zones {limit cs), 1st zone, 2nd zone, 3rd zone : — Fares. — l-horse cabs : 1-2 persons. Per course, 1st zone. . . Pes. 1.00 2nd ,, . . . ,, 2.00 ,, 3rd ,, . . . ,, 3.00 By hour, 1st hour ... ,,2.00 ,, each additional ^ hr. ,, 0.50 [For all zones ; hut if dismissed in 3rd zone, a return fare of pes. 2 can be demanded.] Same conditions for every person beyond two . . Pes. 0.50 For each article of luggage carried outside . . . . ,, 0.50 For 2-horse cabs 1 peseta beyond these fares. Special fares — bargaining necessary — to the Plaza de Toros, the races, the Estacion de las Delicias, etc., or for places without the 3rd zone. No difference between day and night. N.B. — These tariffs are liable to variation at fair time, etc. Very good carriages, with horses and well-appointed coachmen and footmen {cochero y lacayo), can be hired at Oliva's, Calle don Martin 57 and Calle de la Qaintana 14 ; or at Horuilla's, Paseo de la Castellana 10, at a cost of 500-750 pesetas per month. A good riding horse costs 15 to 20 pesetas per day. Carriages (caleches, carretelas, etc.) cost about 15 pesetas for half a day, and 25 pesetas for a whole day. The English Cemeierylies about a mile outside the city, beyond the Puente de Toledo. It is just one acre in extent, and prettily laid out. Gdbierno Civil. — Calle Mayor 127. Open from 10 a.m. to 5 1".m. Foreigners who have any complaint to make can apply to this authority ; but if to re- cover lost articles, or in case of petty conflicts and difficulties with natives, apply to any Inspector de Vigilancia, who is generally civil, may be intelli- gent, but must not be expected to bo active. Environs. — Casa de Campo. — A royal shooting-box, on the right bank of the Manzanares, 7 m. in circum- ference, begun by Charles III. The house is paltry ; the supply of water is abundant, and there are some fine avenues. Drive through the Calle Azul, round the pond, to the race- course, where a caricature Derby takes place in May. Good shooting. Apply for permit to visit the royal country- houses to Intendente de la Casa Real. Visit La Moncloa, to which place the Buen Retire porcelain-manufactory was removed by Ferdinand VII. It is situated on the N. of the city, upon the El Pardo carretera. The palace has been turned into a school of agri- culture, but with only moderate success. El Pan^o.— Situated 2 leagues N.W., on left bank of the river. There has been a royal palace here from the very earliest days of Madrid's ascendency, indeed as far back as the time of Enrique III., ElDoliente. The present house, however, dates only from the reign of Philip III., at the beginning of the 17th century, when the older pile was burned down. It attained to its present importance in the time of Chiirles III., who made large additions to it. Since then the place has been a favourite Sitio Heal, from the excel- lence of its preserves and its convenient position near the capital. The shooting is first-rate, the covers being about 40 miles in circumference, well planted and stocked. There are not many objects of interest within the house, but the tapestries after designs of Goya and MADRID. 305 Teniers should be noticed. English visitors who have seen Ribalta's superb Clirist bearing the Cross (sometimes ascribed to ilorales) which forms the retablo in Magdalen Chape), Oxford, will be interested to find a copy of it here — in the royal chapel. Alameda. — 1^ hr. drive, the country- seat of Duke of Osuna ; apply for per- mit to his head steward. Some fine avenues ; the gardens well supplied with water. Look at some finely- carved groups of tauromachian subjects, also at the stables and grounds. The latter are, however, falling into a bad state. Los Carahancheles. — Two miserable villages, one de arriha and the other de abajo, where some Madrid people have had the courage to build villas ; amongst them Countess Montijo ; half an hour's drive after passing the fine bridge of Toledo. There is a ti-am\vay throughout, with frcfjuent cars, and the villages form a great resort of Madrid holiday-takers of the lower classes. Boadilla del Monte. — A small village with a rarely - visited royal residence, lying about 4 leagues from the capital, near Navalcarnero. The house belonged at one time to the infamous Godoy.. the 'Prince of Peace,' and contains a few Goyas worth seeing. The excursion is not, however, one to be undertaken by the ordinary tourist Distances to tlie principal villages near Madrid. Alcorcon, 2 leagues, and road to r^adajoz. Alcovendas, 3 leagues, road to Bayonne. Arganda, 4 leagues, excellent crimson red wine. Algete, 5 leagues, estates and pad- docks of Du(iue del Sesto. Barajas, 2 leagues. Good shooting — hares and partridges. Batres, 5 leagues. Baztan, 6 leagues. Canillejas, 1^ league. Carabanchel Alto, f league. Vide supra. Carabanchel Bajo, \ league. Vide sicpra. Cabanillas, 9 leagues. Poad to Bayonne ; some shooting. Chamartin, 1 league. A dilapidated villa of Duque de Osuua, where Na- poleon lodged. Chinchon, 6 leagues. Fuencarral, 1 J league. Eggs sold at Madrid come ' frescos de Fuencarral, ' where they perhaps were hatched for months before. Plortaleza, 1^ league. As former, on Bayonne road ; large village. Leganes, 1 5 league. Lunatic Asylum. Leeches, 5 leagues. Mineral spring. Molar (el), 7 leagues. Mineral spring. Navalcarnero, 5 leagues. Excellent common red wine. Pesadilla, 8^ leagues. Good shoot- ing ; Sotos, especially that of Sr. D. Andre's Caballero. Romanillos, 4 leagues. Estates of Duque de Alba ; wolf-hunting, d ojeo in winter. Torrejon de Ardoz, 3 leagues. Site of battle won by Marshal Narvaez over the Carlists. Vacia Madrid, 3 leagues. Vallecas, 1^ league. Fossil deposits. Valverde, 5J leagues. Vicalvaro, 1 league. Battle won, 1854, by Marshal O'Donnell, against the San Luis Government generals. Villaviciosa, 3 leagues. Some sum- mer villas, good climate. Escuela de Ingenieros de Montes. 306 MALAGA. Malaga.— Capital of prcvince of same name ; bishop's see, and a trading sea- port ; pop. 160,300. Boutes and Conveyance from „„, or to Madrid. By rail [gg^^ ^i throiigliout ; and thus: I\la- "" '^"~" drid to Cordova, about 12 hrs. ; fares, pes. 50.85 and pes. 39.40. Cordova to Malaga, time 6 hrs. ; pes. 24. 45 and pes. 18. 35. Two trains a day. Tliis is the most direct route between Madrid and Malaga. The scenery is not devoid of interest. The principal town on the way is Montilla. Description of Route. — Shortly after leaving Cordova, the Guadalquivu- is crossed on a sheet-iron bridge, resting on tubular piers 1 7 metres high. The in signilicantGuadajocillo stream is crossed three times, and Fernan Nunez is reached — a small insignificant town, 6000 mhabitants, with an old 'palacio,' the ])roperty of the duke of that name. Ascending slightly, we soon get to 3Io7i- tilla, 15,000 inhabitants ; a very sti-ik- ingly situated town, rising on two hills, from which the view is very extensive. See for details on the celebrated wine produced here, Cordova : Excursions, aTid General Information : Wine. On leaving, the Rio Cabra is crossed, and Aguilar is reached, a small town of 12,000 inhabitants, near which are some estates belonging to the wealthy house of Medinaceli. Excellent wines, which go by the name of Montilla. An interesting though dilapidated Moorish castle ; close to it, upon a hill, stands the Ca.stillo de Anzur, the pro- perty of the Duke of Medinaceli. The Genii is crossed shortly after leaving the stream of Puente Genii, on an iron bridge. Here (Puente Genii) is the junction of the railway from Espeluy, vid Jaen, chiefly useful for a visit to the latter place. Close to stream and town of Fuentc de Piedra are some curious petrifying springs. On right of stream, a small salt-water lake, 16 kil. circuit ; on left, a lofty hill ; on the opposite side, the fertile ' Campiua ' of Antequera. Bohadilla. — Branches to Granada and to Gibraltar vid Ronda. The Guadalhorce is crossed, and a tunnel 360 met. long leads to Gobanies. Coach from here to the much fre- quented baths of Carratraca (sulphur- ous, 64° Fahr.) 14 miles. Good hotels, cafes and casino. Some 10 kih W., another road leads across the Sierra de Peuarubia to the town (4000 inhabi- tants) and estates of I'cba, the apanage of the late Empress of the French, who is Condesa de Teba. The wines pro- duced in its vicinity are very like that of Jerez. There are some tracts of wild scenery, especially the rocky 'Hoyo,' a little beyond this last stream, and a series of tunnels, 5000 m. long, are successively traversed. Iron and stone viaducts, tunnels, and other extensive and costly works, have been required to overcome the difficulties offered by the nature of the countr}'. On leaving the last tunnel, a beautiful orange-growing valley is traversed, succeeded shortly after leaving station of Alora by others, planted, besides, with citron trees, pome- granates, etc. Pizarra, 3600 inhab. Travellers driving to Ronda or Carra- traca, when proceeding from -Malaga, take a road which leads from this station, 2 hrs. Close to C'ar/ama, an ancient but now most insignificant town on a hill, may be seen the ruins of an old fortress. The soil around is very fertile. MAT.AOA, 307 At Malaga, station 'buses in attend- ance ; Ir. per traveller ; 2r. with luggage. „__^ From Seville. — By rail >=r^t;^-^ to Cordova, whence ut ~ supra ; also direct, via Ut- rcra, La Koda and Bobadilla, in 6 lirs. From Jaen. — See Cdrdova. From Granada. — By rail to station of Bobadilla, wlience by rail direct. See Granada. From Cadiz. — By land, riding by Gibraltar. See Gibraltar, By rail Utrera and Bobadilla, ui sxqira, or by C6rdo\'a. I*- ii.r^ By Sea. — Lopez's stcam- ■"^dtsBftp crs (Compania Trasatldn- tica) leave Cadiz on the 1st and 16th of each month. Time about 15 hrs. Office of the Company at Cadiz, Isabel la Catolica 3. The Conipaguie Havraise Peuinsulaire run a boat every ten days or so ; and the steamere of the John Hall (London) line can be recom- mended. These boats run weekly, touchiug at Gibraltar : agents in Malaga, Crooke Bros., Alameda 15. For the frequent alterations in sail- ings, fares, and also for other less regular steam communicatiou, see time-tables and annomicemunts in the papers, or inquire at the olhces of the various agents. Yxom Alicante, etc. — By the steamers of the Compania Trasatlantica, twice a month ; and of the Compagnie Hispano- Francaisc, weekly. From Gibraltar. — See Gibraltar, 6 to 8 horns' voyage. Generally speaking there is a pretty constant service Detween Malaga and the chief English ports (London and Liverpool, etc.), and also between Ma- laga and the ports of the Mediterranean and Atlantic — Lisbon, Cadiz, Barce- lona, Cartagena, Almeria, Tarragona, Marseilles, Genoa and Leghorn, etc. etc. For particulars apply to the various agents in Malaga, Roos, Calle de la Bolsa, Crooke Brothers, Clemens and Petersen, Mowbray and Co., or considt daily papers. There are likewise larger occasional steamers to Gibraltar, London, Liverpool, Hamburg, Ha^TC, and the Galician ports, such as the Cunard boats and the steamers of the French Compagnie Traubatlantique (Agent, J. Iloos, Calle de la Bolsa), N.B. — Unless taking a thoroughlj well-known line we advise travellers to visit the steamers before taking tickets, or else they are very likely to find themselves on board small, dirty, and unseaworthy crafts, with but scanty room and comfort for human cargoes. From Carratraca (see p. 306), daily coach dming the season. From Rouda by rail vid Bobadilla (change) ; two trains daily ; fares, 1st cl. pes. 17.90 ; 2(1 cl. pes. 13.40. Travellers may take up dil. at St. of Gobantes, 1 hour from Malaga. Beautiful scenery in the vicinity. (See General Information : Mineral Springs.) To Churriana, etc. To Churriana, small dil. daily. To and from the Palo, tramway every ten minutes (El Palo, the terminus). Climate. — This city, one of the most cosmopolitan in the Peninsula, is situ- ated 36° 43' lat. N., and 4° 25' long. W. of Greenwich. Malaga constitutes one of the most important medical stations in the world, and must necessarily become better ap- preciated as it is better known. Situatioii.— Its very situation is most favourable to constitute a good climate. Malaga lies opened to the fresh breezes from the E. and to tlie warm S., whilst it is absolutely screened from the N. by its lofty hills. To the W. it is somewhat exposed to the north-western 308 MALAGA — CLIMATE. terral (the French viislral and the Italian tramoyitana), \\'hieh is ushered in through the Boca del Asno, a gap in the Sierra de Torcal ; but even that wind is not pernicious, but dry and stimulating at all seasons. TEMPERATURE OF MALAGA. According to Fahrenheit's Thermometer placed in the open street, in the shade, and facing the North. at 8 A.M. 2 P.M. II P.M. 54° Nov. I 53° 59* ,. 8 60 6S 60 ,. 15 60 69 55 .. 23 47 61 50 ,. 30 58 63 49 Dec. I 51 64 54 „ 7 56 72 56 ., 15 52 59 5" „ 20 47 50 51 „ 26 42 54 41 .. 31 47 52 49 Jan. I 44 50 40 8 52 61 51 .. 15 51 59 49 ,, 22 53 6S 51 .. 31 52 64 52 Feb. I 53 64 51 ., 8 53 65 54 „ 16 51 64 50 ,. 17 56 68 55 ,, 21 52 59 52 .. 23 59 70 56 53 56 53 It is only during June, July, August, and September, that the temperature is too warm to be agreeable, the thermometer then ranging from 72° to 94° (Fahr.) steady heat. The ordi- nary temperature is mild and moderately dry and bracing. There is nothing noxious in the atmosphere. There are absolutely no endemic diseases. The great advantage of this climate is, that invalids or delicate persons, who at home would be confined to their houses, can here be out in the open air almost every day during the winter. The above observations have been kindly communicated to the author by Dr. Shortliflf Winds. — The most frequently ob- served are the following, in their order of rotation: K, S.E., S., S.W., W., N.E., and N.N.E. The E., or levante, is always charged with moisture, as it sweeps across the sea ; it tempers the summer heat, and is cold in winter, but not lasting then. The S.W., or vendahal, is cold and damp in winter, and is precursory of rain and storms, more especially in autumn and spring ; but during tlie summer it is soft and cool, and takes another name — viz. leveche, or brisa del sur. The S.E. blows seldom : when it does with any violence, the sea becomes rough, and squalls come on. The N. W., or terral, is the land-wind, and is often ushered in by the western. It is rare, but pro- duces great excitement in the nervous system ; and so much so, that courts of lav/ consider it as a circonstance attenu- ante in cases of crime. During the winter it is generally cold and pierc- ing, but sometimes changes suddenly to warm. A NEMOGRAPHV OK Malaga. * Months. w 3 ^ s ^ .5 W w w 1/3 cr> jg •^ Z_ •A January 6s 23 31 54 68 18 42 25 Feb. . 40 17 25 7b 8S 90 33 14 March . 70 43 44 6i bi 85 57 10 April . 4"; 47 S3 S2 62 90 22 4Q May . 88 33 32 60 82 71 25 26 June . 147 04 42 7b 61 47 IS 4 July . 142 59 45 b3 53 39 42 37 August 133 70 32 59 51 38 28 47 Sept. . 112 S3 30 SS 58 57 44 39 Oct. . 64 43 50 59 61 87 40 .33 Nov. . S2 36 2S S3 60 94 49 40 Dec. . 30 29 14 46 77 148 46 23 Days 988 S17 429 714 779 858 443 347 The rotatory motion of the winds is accomplished with great regularity. If the W. wind blows in the morning, it almost invariably turns towards mid- day, either to N.W., N., or N.E. ; and when the evening comes in, will change again to E., then S.E., then S. In a * Deduced from the observations of nine suc- ceeding years, made and published by Doctor Martinez y Montes. MALAGA — CLBUTE. 309 word, we must observe — 1. Tlie anta- gonism between tlie sea and land winds; 2. The prevalence of the former dur- ing spring and summer ; 3. The preva- lence of the latter in autumn and winter. The air is generally dry and bracing. Temperature. — The average annual temperature observed during nine years, by Doctor Martinez y Montes, was by him represented (centigrade thermometer) thus — Winter . 13.12 Spring . 20.28 Summer . 26.88 Autumn . 16.28 January . 68.5 February 72.0 March . 76.0 April . 87.0 May . 94.0 June . 104.4 July . . . 122.0 August . 103.0 September . . 94.0 October 87.0 November . 70.0 December 70.0 The following table gives the thermo- nietrical (Fahrenheit) maximum and minimum readings for the year 1893, taken in the shade on a north wall : — Maximum. Minimum. The mean winter temperature may be taken at 55° Fahr. Thus Malaga is 6' warmer than Rome, 7° than Nice, 8° than Pisa, 13° than Pan, 15° than London. But it also is 6° colder than Madeira, 4' than Cairo, 3° than Malta. The mean temperature of spring is (3255, being identical with Malta and Madeira, but 5* warmer than Rome or Pisa, and 8° than Pan. ' The mean annual range is 49, many degrees less than any other place on the Continent ; that at Pan being 68° ; at Rome, 62° ; [at Nice, 60°. The range of Madeira, however, is only 81°. The mean daily range amounts to 41 only, and in tliis r<>spect tb*- climate is superior to any tnat nas been noticed ; the daily range of Ma- deira being 94° ; of Rome, 10° ; of Nice, 9°.' (Dr. E. Lee, Spain and its Climates.) The more recent details here given are from the records of Dr. Visick, resident physician. The great feature of the climate is its sunniness. It may be said that constant sunshine is a characteristic of Malaga. A day on which the sun does not shine at all is very unusual, especially in No- vember, December, and January. In February and March the air is less dry, and a few cloudy and overcast days generally occur ; but even of these days a portion is frequently bright and clear. Dryness of Air. — There are not dur- ing the whole year more than ten days on which rain would prevent an invalid from taking exercise. It is the extreme dryness of the air that seems to be the most remarked feature in the climate of Malaga ; and it is this which renders it for many invalids much superior to Madeira, which, although wanner by some degrees in the middle of winter, is veiy damp and relaxing. (For com- parison with temperature of principal medical stations, see Genei-al Informa- tion : Climate.) From this table it will be seen that it is only 2° lower than Malta, and 5° than Madeira, for the mean winter and spring temperature — being higher than all the most cele- brated places in Europe, and, indeed, in spring it is 5,^° higher than even Miiltii anil Madeira. The thermometer seldom or never falls to 0° ; and as to snow, the oldest inhabitants hardly re- member to have ever seen it. It rains now but seldom ; and the evaporation is so great that the rain 310 MALAGA— CLTMATF. that falls has no innuencc on the air, and, to be abundant, a shock, or sti'ong contrast between the E. and W. winds, or between the E. and S.W., is neces- sary. During nine years it has rained only 262 times, being an average of 39 rainy days in tlie year ; the (quantity fallen measuring 405 mill. Now, the number of rainy days (yearly) at Madeira is 70 ; at Rome and Naples, twice as much as at Malaga ; and at Pisa, far beyond. The sky is clear and limpid all the year round ; and the sky of the Campagna of Rome, the heaven of Greece, is nothing compared to the splendours of the gold and purple at- mosphere in which the sunset bathes this favoured city. Now, during the above nine years, the state of the at- mosphere was^ Clear . . 1974 times. Cloudy . . 691 ,, Rainy . . 262 ,, Light Clouds . 988 ,, Foggy or misty 16 ,, m9years(!) Tempestuous . 3 ,, (!) The annual mean is 16 '5. The greater proportionate amount of rain, says Dr. Lee, falling in the autumnal months. Tlie year 1893 was exceptionally wet. The days on which rain fell — sometimes very few drops, but yet rain — were forty-four : — January . 6 days. July . . None. February .3 ,, August . 2 days. March . 5 ,, September . 4 „ April . . 6 ,, October . 5 ,, May . . 2 ,, November . 6 „ June . . I day. December . 4 „ Of these, two days were really bad, and there were sixteen on which the rain could be called abundant. — {Dr. Visick's Record for 1893.) InjUnmce of this Climate on Health and Disease. — The characteristics of the climate are— great dryness of the air and trifling fall of rain, high winter temj)erature, absence of pernicious winds and storms, prevalence of briglit and clear weather. The houses are generally badly prepared again.st the heat ; the choice of a house, its aspect, etc., are therefore important. The changes be- tween diunial and nocturnal tempera- ture are often pernicious to very deli- cate nervous constitutions. The terral produces excitation both in healthy and sick persons, and aggravates phthisical affections ; and cerebral congestions often arise, inducing, more- over, paralysis. The levanter produces different kinds of neurosis, and, by sup- pressing the ti'anspiration, predisposes to affections of the digestive organs. The mortality tables in the hospital for nine years show the following cases : — Gastro-ataxic and typhoid fevers . . 90 Apoplexy and chronic cerebral affections 64 Phthisis . 239 Chronic affections of the digestive organs 332 Dysentery ...... 87 Dropsy .... ... 259 Wounds ....... 142 Phthisis and chronic dLseases of the respiratory organs constitute about a ninth part of the whole mortality in the town and hospital. This climate is advantageous to already consumptive persons, calculated as it is to retard the manifestation of .serious symptoms, but it also weakens and morbilies, if we could so say, the healthy tubercle, and often causes the disease among the younger portion of the population and higher classes especially, opposing no invigorating influence, but on the con- trary, aiding the debility and annihila- tion which may be caused b}' exces.ses, tliere being a great and continual ex pense of life in this hothouse tempera- ture. Opinion of Dr. Ed. Lee. — A winter resid- ence Vifould be advantageous in many of the cases of deteriorated hcaltli and functional dis- order of the digestive app.aratus. In all com- plaints referable to nervous excitation, in dis- ^ MALAGA. 311 eases of the heart and large vessels, accom- panied with active and irregular circulation, I should apprehend the climate of Malaga would be rather prejudicial than otherwise. On the other hand, the warmth, dryness, and equability of the climate would prove highly beneficial in many cases of chronic gout and rheumatism unattended by vascular excitability ; as also in scrofulous complaints, and in the sequelae of inter- mittent fevers and other diseases of a malarious origin, or contracted during a residence in tropical or unhealthy localities. In cases of consumption many considerations must deter- mine the invalid to prefer this to any other climate, and we must refer him to especial doctors and treatises on the subject. In in- cipient tubercular disease, in persons of an excitable habit, and also in a more advanced stage, in such subjects Dr. Lee prefers Ma- deira, Pau, or Pisa, that of Malaga being, he thinks, ' particularly calculated to remedy disease in those early stages when the pa- tients either present no peculiar excitability of temperament, or are of a languid, lym- phatic, or strumous habit.' In the major- ity of cases of chronic larj-ngeal and bron- chial disease, when not accompanied with quickness of pulse and general irrit.ibility (in which cases Pau, Rome, Pi.sa, Madeira, are prefcrable\ the climate of Malaga would be likely to prove eminently serviceable, and many such patients might confidently look for- ward to a permanent cure. Chronic coughs, most kinds of asthma, will be also speedily cured, or at least considerably alleviated. Opiitioti of Dr. E. Crt3«'«e- cially about the middle of the 10th centuiy, when the residence of the Wali of Rayyawas removed here from Archi- dona, whence the name of the capital of Rayja, Medina Rayya, is often found in Arab writers of that period. In the 11th centiu-y it became the court rf the Emirs of the Idrisite dynasty, which extended its rule to Cordova, but lasted 314 MALAGA- CATHEDRAL. only twenty years. Subsequently it became dependent of Fez and Morocco, then of Granada ; was the centre of several great rebellions and resi-stance, and, after a dreadfid siege, Ferdinand and I.sabella entered it, August 18, 1487, breaking every pledge, fixing thirty dollars a-head as a ransom for the population, and, on their inability to pay, condemning them all to slavery, confiscation, and the faggot. Those whom it may interest to know the state of Malaga at that period, may read the Chron- icles of El Cura de los Palacios (' Cronica de los Reyes Catolicos'), which h.ave been recently published at Granada, besides those of Hernan Perez del Pulgar, and the Catalan Llitra's Let- ters. This latter was sent to Malaga by the people of the Balearic Islands to settle some affairs connected with them, and in the character of envoy to the Catholic kings. According to him, the great sights then were the Jewry, the Casa de los Genoves=rs (a palace built by Geno- ese merchants), the Tarazanas or Arsenal, etc. ; the mosque which Llitra calls 'molt gentil cosa,' was half the size of that at Cordova, decorated with marble and jasper pillars, and ornamented like a filigree jewel. Isabella, after it was puri- fied, made to it a present of a bit of the true cross, and two bells out of thirty which she car- ried with her, to distribute among the conquered cities. The patio was most beautiful, etc. , the walls of the city massive, the streets narrow and sombre, and there were no squares, the outside of hou.ses was plain and melancholy, but the in- terior rooms, patios, decorated with paintings, marbles, etc. The decadence of the town now began. Malaga dwindled into a third-rate pro- vincial city. In 1810 it was easily taken by Sebastiani, who exacted 12,000, OOOr. from the terror-stricken inliabitants. Malaga has been the Inrthplace of several eminent Arab writers — of the naturalist Abu-Beithar, and of Moh. Ben Kassim ; also of great Moorish doctors, chess-players, etc., and of the loarned Aldoretes, one of whom, Ber- nardo, wrote the ' Origen de la Lengua Cast(dlana,' Rome, 1606, 4to. ; Pedro Montuano, the numismatic Vfla-squez de Velasco, etc. Sights •.-•Cathedral, Iglcsia de la Victoria, Glhralfaro, Ataruzanas. (ffatScDral.— Rises on the site of the former mosque, -which was converted into a Gothic church, of which nothing remains save the portal of the Sagrai-io, which belongs to the decline of Gothic architecture, and is decorated with canopied saints, foliage, and a profusion of JIoro-Gothic details. The present Gra3co- Roman edifice was designed, according to most writers, by Diego de Siloe ; the plans being presented to and approved by the chapter in 1528. Tlie works were begun immediately, but had to be interrupted from want of funds and royal patronage. It was partly destroyed in 1680 by an earthquake, and the works, resumed in 1719 (not a favourable epoch for art), were, after several modifications, interrupted once more in 1765, and have never been completed. Thus an edifice, begun on a large scale, after excellent designs, has been gradually di.sfigured, and pre- sents now an unmeaning pile, charac- terised by all the defects of the pseudo- classical school at the worst periods. Tlie length of it is about 374 ft., the breadth 243 ft, and the height 132 ft. There are seven entrances. The prin- cipal fa(;ade is to the W. and in an irregular square. The entrance consists of three fine arches resting on Corinthian pillars ; the upper portion or stage belongs to the Composite order, and is flanked by only one tower, the other not being completed. Tliis tower is light, of good proportions, but the effect is marred by pilasters, balconies, balus- trades, simidated openings, etc. The height is 350 ft. Tlie view from it is glorious, but the sight of the cathedral itself is most effective and pleasing from a distance, owing to the whiteness of the stone, the lengtii of the edifice, and the quaint .small cupolas of tlie roof. Interior. — Three naves divided by MALACiA — CATHEDRAL. 315 Corinthian -grouped fluted pillars placed back to back upon circular, heavy, and disproportionate pedestals. '£he capi- tals are also incongi"uous, and their entablature too large. The arches of the roof do not spring directly from these pillars, but rest on columns in tlie corni(;e. It is spacious and lofty, but too much lighted up ; of monoton- ous symmetry between the parts, cold and unmeaning. The High Chapel was designed by Alfonso Cano. The altar is modern and in bad taste. The five frescoes of the Passion are by Cesar of Arbacia, 1580. The pavement is of white and blue marbles, and the roof is decorated with gilt and painted rosettes. The transept portals are elegant. The clioir dates ] 592-1631, and is the work of Vergarathe younger, to whom Diaz de Palacios .succeeded. The stalls were designed by Luis Ortiz and the Italian sculptor C4iusoppe Michael, 1658. Forty statues of saints, which were then wanting, were confided to Pedro de Mena. The carving is of no great merit ; the wood employed is mahogany, cedar, etc. The statues are the best portion, and Cano's taste is here revealed by his pupil Mena. The chapels are indifferent, and contain few pictures. Capilla de K. S. del Rosario, the large picture of Our Lady of the Rosary, is by Alfonso Cano. St. Dominik and St. Francis, at the foot of tlie Virgin, are excellently drawn. The morhidezza on the Virgin's fiiee, the delicate hand- ling of the draperies, are all to be noticed ; but the colouring is not so good as usual. Capilla de la Concepcio7i. — This 'mystery' is represented in a painting Dy Mateo Cerezo. Capilla de los Reyes. — -A holy image which used to be carried by the Catho- lic kings in their campaigns ; on right and left their portraits, both copies. Capilla de San Franciseo. — Virgin and Dead Christ, ascribed, en-oneously we think, to Morales. Altar del Trascoro. — It is of jasper. The image of the Virgin is by Adam, whose St. Michael at the Cathedral of Granada is better, and his masterpiece. The paintings of Sta. Agueda and Sta. Cecilia are both ascribed to Murillo ( !). In the square on the right of cathe- dral is the indifferent Bishop's Palace, and on the other side the elegant Puerta del Sagrario. Church of El Crista de La Victoria. — On the site of the Catholic king's tent, wliich was put up during the siege of 1487. The miserable, whitewashed, small San Eo(;[ue close by was the first Christian edifice erected here by Fer- dinand and Isabella. The image, highly revered, was removed from it when the present larger church was built, and placed on the high altar within a .small circular churrigueresque chapel, where, by means of curtains, etc., the light is so managed as to produce a soft, purple, vapoury atmosphere. The imago was brought here by the Catholic kings. The jewels it once possessed became a prey in Sebastiani's hands, who did not forget the silver candelabra, etc. To the right of altar is Ferdinand's pendou or royal standard, and to the left the one taken from the Moors. The former, when the city .surrendered, was hoisted in the alcazaba or castle on the Torre del Homcnage. There are a good stair- case and some tombs of the P)uenavista family. The minor churches are all un- interesting, a.s, after the conquest, the king's favour was withdrawn from it ; and it was deserted alike by we.ilthy Moors and the nobility ; and merchants were even reluctant to inhabit this desolate city, notAvithstanding the fueros gi-anted, the priAaleges offered to those who would coloni.se its aban- 316 MALAGA. doned Iniei-ta, and the offers to tlie Genoese to be restored their bamo, etc. Santiago and Sto. Domingo, near the river, are indifferent. Tliat of Santos Martires contains some good painted scidptiire representing Apostles, San- tiago, and San Juan, date 1490. Gibralfaro.— Tlie ascent is easy, and the view from the height extensive and fine. The alcazaba was united by tlie Arabs to Gibralfaro, and the city was hooped in within a quadruple circle of walls. Til N. is still the former Torre del Vigia, the watch-tower, the Atalaya; and to S. the usual Jloorish La Vela, on which D. Pedro de Toledo placed his Silver Cross on the day of the suiTcnder of the city by the Moors. The two steep ascents lead both to the deeply- recessed Puerta de Hierro, whose Arab ogival and horseshoe arches observe, as well as the Roman vestiges about the columns, and mutilated Corinthian capitals ; the two other gates — Arco de Cristo and Cuartos de Granada — are not as interesting. The Moorish castle dates 1279 ; the lower portion or alca- zaba was anterior to the Moorish period, and its foundations as well as those of the walls are probably Phoenician. It is connected witli the Gibralfaro (from gebel, rock ; faro the Greek faros, light- house), which, an old Phcenician castle, was repaired by Mohammed of Granada, who reigned 1273 to 1302 ; but part of which had been raised end of 11th cen- tury by ]bn-Habus-El-Zinhachi. N.B Admission to the castle is rarely ac- corded, as political prisoners are often kept here. The pos.session of this neglected, ill-defended, but strong posi- tion, is the key of Malaga and the Port, as the possession of both were in Fer- dinand's time the key to Granada. Alarazanas {Arabic^, Dhar Sanaa, literally Houscof Arts, whence theSpan- ish da rscna and fr rsenal) — Th ese were the Moorish dockyards, once of great extent and importance ; their situation in a back street is a sufficient proof of the receding of the sea. The only remains consist 'of an elegant horseshoe arch imbedded in the wall, with two shields on the sides, and the motto of the Naserite Emirs, ' God alone is tht Conqueror.' Libraries. — The Episcopal Biblioteca consists of 6000 vols., and was estab- lished under Charles III. The old catalogue dates 1830. They have been abandoned a good deal to real book- worms, and are full of wise but uncom- fortable dust. It is rich in Bible lite- rature. Fathers of the Church, Councils ; a fine MS. missal of 13th century, and a few MSS. mostly about the history of tliis city. In the scanty and still more modern library of the Instituto Pro- vincial there is a valuable work on botany, all MSS., and with a good lier- bary. The Marq. of Casa Loring has some antiquities, and a fine collection of books and MSS. In that of Los Herederos of Sr. Oliver inquire for the collection of early chronicles and Elze- virian editions. Pictures. — Private galleries do not exist. There are, however, some good pictures at the house of the Marques Casa Loring. Promenades, Theatres, etc — Tlie fashionable paseos are the Alameda, the walk to the lighthouse, and the Caleta. The Alameda is close to the port. It is long and spacious, and with an elegant fountain at one extremity, which was ordered at Genoa by Charles V. for his ])alace of Granada, was taken, on board the Spanish vessel which was conveying it, by Barbarossa, and recovered by D. Ber- nardino de Mendoza, General de Galeras. It consists of two tazzas, and is most etfective, being decorated with marblfl cupids, sirens, nymphs, etc., dressed iu a light fig-leaf costume most appro- MALAGA. 317 priate to Malaga climate. On the Ala- meda the military baud jjlays pretty generally in the evening, during the long simimer, from 8 to 10 p.m. We also recommend the Paseo del Camino Nuevo, from the Church of La Victoria, along the Gibralfaro and sea, and along the Yelez-Malaga road to El Palo (4 m.) A \vhole new suburb, called the Calda, has risen within the last few years on this eastern side of the town, beyond the Bull-ring and the British cemetery. A great number of pretty villas with good gardens have been built, and are let at moderate rents. The line of houses now goes almost without interruption to the Palo. The Calda is the Belgravia of Malaga, while the Alamedas may be said to be its Mayfair. The British and several other of the foreign consuls have their private residences in this new quarter. Another drive IJ hr., by Plaza de Torrijos, La Victoria, Fuente de la Mania (excellent drinking-water. La Caleta, Cortina del Muelle, etc. The new Plaza de Toros is a large building, capable of holding 10,000 spectators, erected in 1S7-1 upon the old Muelle, in the re.ar of the Noble Hospital (founded by two English ladies, named Noble, in memory of their brother). N.B.—A very charming expedition is to take the train from Malaga to Bobadilla {see p. 300 etc.), and thence to Ronda, where stay a day or two {see p. 164) ; thence to Gaucin, sleeping at the Fonda, and visiting the old castle and monastery ; thence to Gibraltar vid San Roque ; then return to Malaga by hired horses to Estepona, whence take coach to ilarbella ; get permission to see the iron mines, and then go on to Malaga by the coast line of diligences. British Vice -Consul at Marbella. Mr. Michael Calzado. Post Office — Calle de Cister. Hours of delivery, 3 and 8 p.m., and leaves at 7 a.m. Open fiom 8 a.m. to 12 N. , and from 2 P.M. to 7 P.M. Letters for the North may be posted till 6 A.M. Telegraph Office. — At the Post Office, Calle de Cister. Consuls. — H.B.M., Alexander Finn, Esq. ; Pro-Consul, Chas. Cowan, Esq. Offices, Cortina del Muelle, 93. United States. — R. M. Bartleman, Esq. ; Office_|on the Alameda. Bankers. — Messrs. Cumming and Van Dulken, and ilessrs. Clemens and Petersen, both on the Alameda de Colon ; Rein & Co., Alameda Hermosa ; Larios, Alameda. Church of England Service. — At the Church in the British Cemetery. Chap- lain, Rev. Arthur Evans. Services, Sundays, 11 and 3, and Saints' Day. The British Cemetery, on the Velez- ilalaga road, is a beautiful spot, in which the English colony take great pride. It was the first Protestant cemetery allowed in Spain, and was obtained in anti - toleration times through the energy and popularity of the then consid, Mr. Wm. Mark. [Visitors may well make a small donation towards the support of the cemetery. ] Medical Man. — Dr. Clarence Visick (English), Vendeja 7. BaiJcs. — Ant. Porras, Calle Larios ; Man. Ceiban, Calle de los Bafios. Sea- bathing, from Juue to September, on the Caleta ; three establishments — ' Be Diana,' ' La Bstrella,' and ' Apolo.' Theatres. — El Principal; De Cer- vantes. The latter is a large modem house, where Italian Opera and Spanish Zarzuelas, etc., are given during the winter season. Summer theatre, ' Lara. ' Peculiar Eatables of the Country.— 318 MALAGA. Fish. — Boquerones (like whitebait), chanquetes, agujetas and calamaie^ . sweet potatoes, raisins, and almonds, and sugar-cane. Figs, of several kinds, excellent, and at cheaiiest possible jirice. JFines. — Malaga is celebrated lor its exquisite vino de Idgrima (tears liter- ally), not unlike the Italian produce of that name, Lachryma Chrisli ; dry Malaga is also excellent and whole- some ; upwards of 50,000 pipes are annually produced ; the principal mar- kets are United States, France and S. America. Good imitations of Cura9ao, anisette, and other liqueurs are made and exported. Wine - vurchants. — Scholtz, Her - manos, Alameda de Colon ; Crooke, Herman OS y Campania, Alameda 21 ; Clemens and Petersen, Alameda de Colon. liaisin - merchants. — Clemens and Petersen, Alameda de les Tristes 2. Hairdresser. — Antonio Porras, Calle Larios. 7"rt//(J/-.— licfTa, Puerta del Mar. Gtozer. — Castilla, Calle Granada. Malaga, the leader in many of the improvements in Spain, has lately started a poorhouse, supported by voluntary subscriptions — unfortun- ately there is no poor law or system in the country. With the help of the governors and police about 150 beggars have been taken oif the streets, and housed and fed, and periodically convoys of beggars are sent back to their own towns or villages. Boat Fares. — From steamer to Custom House or hotel, 2r. (50c.) per person, and 2r. a colis. Parcels should be tied together, so as to make one l>ackage if taken by porter. Cab Fares. — Morning to Kight. 2 Seats, course 1 pe. „ by the hour 2 >i 4 Seats, course . li n „ by the hour . 2i „ Night to Morning. 2 Seats, course ... 2 pes. „ by the hour . . aj „ 4 Seats, course . . . 2J ,, ,, by the hour . - si ,, First hour, though not completed, must be paid as whole ; every quarter after the first hour, proportionately. Half-a-day, 2 J pes.; entire day, 5 pes.; by the month, conventional prices within the city bounds, outside about 3J pes. the hour. A large two-horse caleche, 5 pes. .in hour within the city. Best Stand, opposite the Hotel de Roma, on the .\lameda. Horses /or hire. — Inquire at the hotel. The usual chajge is 10 pes. per day. The Port. — r?-fl