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 K\ /v>* ^ .juAJUSA. 
 
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 LAXES OF Cl'iaBEKLAND. Sec. 
 
 I'atftTihilc lulcue 
 
 JU„ia] .
 
 LAKES OF CUMEEKLAKD. Sec 
 
 JVorf// intrnNCf to /usitu-k 
 
 fiittflun/ /ir/i/t/c
 
 THE 
 
 TOURISTS AND TRAVELLER'S 
 COMPANION 
 
 TO THX 
 
 OF 
 
 CUMBERLAND, WESTMORELAND 
 
 AND 
 
 LANCASHIRE -, 
 
 IWCLUDING A 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE SURROUNDING SCENERY. 
 
 THE 
 
 Vales, Mountains, adjacent Tovcns and Village f. 
 
 Local Peculiarities, 8fc. 
 
 By CHARLES COOKE. 
 
 PRINTED FOR SHERWOOD, JONES, AND CO 
 
 PATERNOSTER-ROW. 
 
 AND SOLD B7 ALL BOOKSELF.ERS.
 
 D. Sidney & Co. Printers, 
 Nortbomberland Street, Strand.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 The scenery of the Lakes of Cumberland, &c. &c. being amoBg^ 
 the principal attractions commanding the attention of tourists and 
 travellers, we have preferred a connected description of the whole 
 to any detached and occasional mention of them, as they occur in 
 the course of the journeys marked out in our Topographical 
 Description. 
 
 The grandeur of the scenery, unique in its kind, would, undoubt- 
 edly, lose much of its effect intermingled with other subjects, as 
 they occur in the several tours described here. "We have therefore 
 preferred treating this as a separate subject ; but at the same time, 
 complete in itself. 
 
 Various methods have been proposed as the most eligible for 
 viewing these Lakes, but after all that has been said, the tourist is 
 most likely to be determined by his own previous ideason the subject, 
 or i iy local circumstances to adopt a plan of his own. In arranging,, 
 thertiore, our excursions, we have given, as accurately as possible, 
 the distances from place to place, and by breaking our tour into 
 short excursions from the principal places, have, we trust, so dis- 
 posed the whole, that whatever order of visiting the Lakes may be 
 adopted, we may still be a useful guide or companion ; connecting 
 the observations and remarks of the latest travellers and tourists 
 upon this romantic part of the Island, particularly those of that 
 ingenious artist, Mr. William Green, the indefatigable Author of 
 The Tourist's New Guide, &c. 
 
 This Guide to the Lakes, in two volumes, has been justly 
 styled by Mr. Wordsworth, A Complete Magazine of minute and 
 accurate information of this kind, giving the names of Mountains, 
 Streams^ Stc. 
 
 fBB EOITOB. 
 B
 
 IiNTRODUCTION. 
 
 Opinions vary as to the most eligible point from which strangers 
 should set out, to view the Lakes to the best advantage. On this 
 particular, a respectable writer, who has been much followed, has 
 observed, ♦• The course of visiting the Lakes from Penrith is by 
 Bampton to Haweswater, and from thence to Uls-water and return 
 to Penrith. Next set out for Keswick, seventeen miles, good 
 road. Having visited Keswick and the environs, set out for Am- 
 bleside, sixteen miles of excellent mountain Road. From Amble- 
 side, proceed along the side of Windermere-water, six miles to 
 Bowness, and, having explored this Lake, either return to Ambleside 
 and from thence to Hawkshead, five miles, or cross Windermere- 
 water at the Horse-Ferry, to Hawkshead, four miles. The road 
 part of the way, is along the beautiful banks of Esthwaite-watcr 
 From Hawkshead, the road is along the skirts of the Furness 
 ^ppennines to the head of Coniston-watcr, three miles good road. 
 This Lake stretches from the feet of Coniston Fells, to the south, 
 six miles. The road on the eastern side along its banks to Lowick 
 Bridge ; from thence to Penny Bridge, or by Lowick Hall, eight 
 miles. From Ulverston, by Dalton, to the ruins of Furness Abbey, 
 six miles. Return to Ulverston, from thence to Kendal, twenty- 
 one miles, or to Lancaster, over the sands, twenty miles. 
 
 This order for making the tour of the Lakes, is the most conve- 
 nient for company coming from the north, or over Stainmoor ; — 
 but for those who come by Lancaster, it will be every way more 
 convenient to commence their visit to the Lakes with Coniston- 
 water. — By this course the Lakes present themselves in an order 
 more agreeable to the eye and grateful to the imagination. The 
 change of scenery is then from the pleasing to the surprising ; from 
 the delicate touches of Claude, verified on the Coniston Lake, to the
 
 INTRODUCTION. V 
 
 noble scenes of Poussin exhibited in Windermere; and from these 
 to the stupendous romantic ideas of Salvator Rosa, realized on the 
 Lake of Derwent-water. 
 
 We would therefore take up the tourist at Lancaster, and attend 
 hinJ to all the Lakes, pointing out the permanent features of each 
 scene, the vales, the dells, the groves, the hanging woods, the scat- 
 tered cots, the deep mountains, the impending cliff, the broken 
 ridge, the tarns, the strean?s, &c. 
 
 Such as visit the Lakes from the south, and arc limited to time, 
 generally make to Ambleside, as a primary station; others, not 
 preferring the beauties of this place, post on to Keswick, under the 
 idea that all the charms of the county are concentrated in Borrow- 
 dale and Derwent-water. A short time, in dry weather, will do 
 much. Mr. Green honestly declares in favour of Ambleside, but 
 not to the total exclusion of Keswick and Derwent-water, where 
 one or two days might produce an agreeable variety. — On the con- 
 trary, visitors from the north or east, might spend four days 
 about Derwent-water,^ and the neighbourhood, and two in a tour by 
 Matterdale to Uls-water, returning by way of Ambleside to 
 Keswick. 
 
 To form a proper idea of the local scenery of the Lakes, Mr. 
 Wordsworth says, " I know not how to give the reader a distiact 
 image of these more readily, than by requesting him to place him- 
 self with me in imagination upon some given point ; let it be the 
 top of Great Gavel, or Scaw-fell ; or rather let us suppose our sta- 
 tion to be a cloud, hanging midway between these two mountains, at 
 not more than half a mile's distance from the summit of each, and 
 not many yards above their highest elevation ; we shall then see 
 stretched at our feet, a number of valleys, not fewer than eight, 
 diverging from the point on which we are supposed to stand, like 
 spokes from the nave of a wheel. First we note, lying to the south 
 cast, the vale of Langdale, which will conduct the eye to the long 
 Lake of Windermere, stretched nearly to the sands of the vast Bay 
 of Morcomb, serving here for this imaginary wheel — let us trace it 
 in a direction frovi the south-east, towards the south, and we shall 
 next fix our eyes upon the vale of Coniston, running up likewise 
 from the sea, but not as the other valleys dO; to the nave of the
 
 VS INTRODUCTION. 
 
 v;i\etl, and therefore it may not be unaptly represented as a broken 
 £poke sticking in the rim. Looking again, with an inclination 
 tovrards the west, immediately at our feet lies the vale of Duddon, 
 in which is no Lake, but a winding stream among fields, rocks, and 
 mountains, and terminating its course in the sands of Dud''x)n. 
 The fourth vale, that of the Esk, is of the same general character 
 as the last, yet beautifully discriminate from it by peculiar features. 
 Its stream passes under the woody steep upon which stands Mun- 
 c£ster Castle, the ancient eeat of the Penningtons, and after 
 fjiming a short and narrow estuary, enters the sea below the little 
 Town of Ravenglass. Next, almost due west, we should look 
 do\rn into, and along the 'leep valley of Wastdale, with its .little 
 chapel and a few neat dwellings scattered upon a plain of meadow 
 and com ground, intersected with stone waUs, almost imperceptible- 
 Beyond this fertile little plain, within its bed of steep mountains, 
 lies the long, narrow, stern, and desolate Lake ofVVastdale, and 
 b.yond this, a dusky tract of level ground conducts the eye to the 
 Irish sea. The stream, issuing from Wast-water, is called the Irt, 
 and falls into the estuary of the river Esk. Ennerdale comes next 
 in view, with its Lake of bold and somewhat savage shores. Its 
 stream, the Ehen or Enna, flowing through a soft and fertile coun- 
 try, passes the town of Egrsmont, and the ruins of the Castle; then 
 seeming to break through the barrier of sand thrown up by the 
 winds on this tempestuous coast, enters the Irish sea. The vale 
 of Buttermere, with the lake and viUago of Crummock-water 
 beyond, next present themselves. We will now follow the main 
 stream, the Cocker, through the fertile and beautiful vale of Lor- 
 ton, till it i» lost in the Derwent, below the noble ruins of Cocker- 
 mouth Castle. Lastly, Borrowdale, of which the vale of Keswick 
 is only a continuation, stretching due north, brings us to a point 
 nearly opposite to the vale of Windermere, with which we began. 
 From this it will appear that the image of a wheel, thus far exact, is 
 little more than one half complete; but the deficiency on the eas- 
 tern side may be supplied by the vales of Wytheburn, Uls-water, 
 Haws-water, Grasmere, and Rydal ; none of these, however, run 
 up to the central point between Great Gavel and Scawfell. From 
 this, hitherto our central point, if we take a flight, not more than
 
 INTRODUCTION, VII 
 
 three or four miles eastward to the ridge of Helvellyn, we shall 
 look down upon Wythebum and St, John's Vale, a branch of 
 the vale of Keswick. Upon Uls-water, Btretchinj due cast, and 
 not far beyond to the south east, (though from this point not 
 visible) lie the vale and Lake of Haws-water, and lastly the vales of 
 Grasmere, Rydal, and Ambleside, bring you back to Windermere ; 
 thus completing, though on the eastern side, in a somewhat 
 irregular manner, the representative figure of the wheel." 
 
 Mr. Wordsworth has remarked, " that from amenity and beauty, 
 the transition to sublimity is easy and favourable; but the reverse 
 is not so; for after the faculties have been elevated, they are indis- 
 posed to humbler incitement. The only instances to which these 
 observations do not apply, are Dervvent-water, and Lowes-water. 
 Derwent is distinguished from all other Lakes, by being surrou:icle<l 
 by sublimity : the fantastic mountains of Borrowdale to the south ; 
 the solitary majesty of Skiddaw to the north; the bold steeps of 
 W^^llow-Crag and Lowdore to the east, and to the west, the cluster- 
 ing mountains of Newlands. Lowes-water is tame at the head, 
 but towards its outlet has a magnificent assemblage of mountains. 
 Yet neither Derwent nor Lowes-water derive any supplies from the 
 streams of those mountains that dignify the landscape towards the 
 outlets." 
 
 Mr. Cumberland observed, " in truth a more pleasing lour theai 
 these Lakes hold out to men of leisure and curiosity, cannot be 
 devised. We penetrate the Glaciers, traverse the Rhone and the 
 Rhine, whilst our domestic Lakes of Uls-water, Keswick, and 
 Windermere, exhibit scenes in so sublime a style, with such beau- 
 tiful colourings of rock, wood, and water, backed with so tremen- 
 dous a disposition of mountains, that if they do not fairly take the 
 lead of all the views of Europe, yet they are indisputably such, as 
 no English traveller should leave behind him. 
 
 Such as spend their lives in cities, and their time in crowds, will 
 here meet with objects that will enlarge their mind by conterapla, 
 tion, and raise it from nature to nature's first cause. 
 
 When exercise and change of air are recommended for health, 
 the convalescent will find the latter here in the purest state, and 
 the former will be the concomitant of the tour. The many hills 
 n 3
 
 via INTRODUCTION. 
 
 niid mountains of various heights, separated by narrow vales, 
 through which the air is agitated and hurried on by a multiplicity 
 of brooks and mountain torrents, keep it in constant circulation, 
 which is known to add much to its purity. The water is also as 
 pure as the air, and on that account recommends itself to the 
 valitudinarian. 
 
 The waters of the English Lakes are infinitely more pellucid and 
 less subject to agitation than those of the Alps, in Switzerland, and, 
 not like them, subject to any storms. 
 
 It is very common for tourist's to make this comparison between 
 these mountains and those of the Alps. A gentleman wlio had 
 passed much time abroad, and was well acquainted with the scenery 
 cf the Continent, recomm.ends those persons who intend to make a 
 tour on the Continent, to begin with a visit to our Lakes. He 
 says it will afford them a miniature picture of what they are 
 to meet with there; in traversing the Alps and Appenninest, to 
 which our northern mountains are not inferior in beauty of line, or 
 variety of summit, number of lakes, transparency of water, colour- 
 ing of rock, or softness of turf; but in height and extent only. 
 
 As Tarns are frequently mentioned in the course of these excur- 
 sions, it is to be observed that " Tarns are bodies of still water 
 found in some valleys, and are numerous among the mountains. 
 A Tarn in a vale, generally implies that the bed of a vale is not 
 happily formed } and in such situations they are often surrounded 
 by an unsightly tract of boggy ground. The Tarn differs only 
 from the Lake in being smaller or found in a circular recess. 
 
 As the best time of the year, the month of September has 
 been recommended for visiting this select situation; its autum- 
 nal appearance is thus preferred either to that of spring or summer. 
 in the valleys there is then an admirable compass and proportion of 
 natural harmony in colour through the whole scale of objects ; as 
 the tender green of the after-grass upon the meadows, interspersed 
 with islands of grey or mossy rock, crowned by shrubs and trees, in 
 the irregular enclosures of standing corn, or stubble fields ; in the 
 mountainsides, glowing with fern of divers colours; in the calm 
 blue lakes, and river pools; and in tlie foliage of the trees, through 
 all the tints of autumn. To persons confined to time, the space
 
 INTRODUCTION. IX 
 
 between the middle or last week in May, and the middle or last 
 week of June, as affording the best combination of long days, fine 
 weather, and the consequent variety of impressions, has been'recom, 
 mended. Few of the native trees are then in full leaf; but what- 
 ever may be wanting in depth of shade will be made up in the 
 diversity of foliage, in the blossoms of the fruit, and the berry- 
 bearing trees, which abound in the woods, and in the golden flowers 
 of the broom and other shrubs. Still, on those mounUin sides 
 that have a northern aspect, many of the spring flowers are back- 
 ward, whilst the open and sunny places are stocked with those of 
 summer. Here the linnet and thrush chant their love-songs, safe 
 from the birds of prey that build in the inaccessible crags, and are 
 frequently heard or seen wheeling about in the air. In the narrow 
 valleys here, it is remarked, there are no sky-larks, as their destroy- 
 ers would be able to dart upon them from the nearest heights. The 
 nightingale seldom resorts here, but almost all the other tribes of 
 the English warblers are numerous. Several other circumstances 
 render the close of spring particularly interesting, as the bringing 
 down the ewes from the mountains to yean in the valleys and enclo- 
 sed grounds. At this time, too, the traveller, will be sure of room, 
 and comfortable accommodation, even in the small Inns. As to the 
 order in which objects are best seen, it is observed, a lake will ap- 
 pear to most advantage when approached from its outlet, especially 
 if it be in a mountainous country. By this way of approach the 
 spectator faces the grander features of the scene, and is gradually 
 conducted into its most sublime recesses. As to the precipitous 
 sides of the mountains, and the neighbouring summits, they may be 
 seen with effect tmder any atmosphere which allows of their being 
 seen at all. The Tisitant to the mounUins should reaca the summit 
 by sun-rise, or remain there till the time of sun-set. A stranger to 
 a mountainous country should take his early morning walk on the 
 eastern side of the vale, otherwise he will lose the morning light, 
 first touching the tops, and thence creeping down the sides of the 
 opposite hills, as the sun ascends. If the line of the horizon in the 
 east be low, the western side may be taken for the sake of the reflec- 
 tions upon the water: in the evening, for like reasons, the contrary 
 course should be adopted.
 
 X INTRODUCTION. 
 
 A provincial poet has also indulged his muse upon this fruitful 
 subject. 
 
 When summer suns lick up the dew. 
 And all the heavens are painted blue, 
 'Tis then with smiling cheeks we view 
 
 The Stranger at the Lakes. 
 When morning tips with gold the boughs. 
 And tinges Skiddaw's cloud-kiss'd brows. 
 Then round the Lake the boatman rows 
 
 The Stranger at the Lakes. 
 When grey-rob'd evening steps serene. 
 Across the sweetly varied green. 
 Beside some cascade may be seen. 
 
 The Stranger at the Lakes. 
 He whose ideas never stray 
 Beyond the parson's gig and gray. 
 Stares at the carriage and relay 
 
 Of Strangers at the Lak&s. 
 
 As by his cot the phaeton flics. 
 
 The peasant gapes with mouth and eyes. 
 
 And to his wond'ring family cries, 
 
 " A Stranger at the Lakes T' 
 Sometimes, when brewers' clerks appear. 
 And Boniface is short of gear. 
 He says, " Kind Sir, we've had this year 
 
 Few Strangers at the Lakes." 
 At Christmas, when the bar-maid shews 
 Her lustre gown, and new kid shoes. 
 She says, " I tipp'd the cash for those 
 
 From Strangers at the Lakes." 
 
 But could the post-horse, neighing, say 
 What he has suffered night and day, 
 'Tis much, I think, if he would pray 
 
 For Strangers at the Lakes. 
 
 t;tlAUi.U6 WiLtlAMS.
 
 
 
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 EXCURSION I. 
 
 From Lancaster to Ulverston over the sands. 
 
 HestBank 
 
 Cartniel Guide's-bouse over the first sand 
 
 Road through Fiookborough, connecting the 
 
 sands 
 Ulverston 
 
 Avoidbt^ the sands, the road fromLancaster to 
 
 to Carnforth . ... 
 
 Warton .... 
 
 Yealand Conyers 
 
 — Redman 
 Siorrs 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Mlle» 
 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 s\ 
 
 16X 
 
 H 
 
 21 
 
 Ulverston is. 
 
 
 •H 
 
 H 
 
 7 
 
 li 
 
 81 
 
 1 
 
 9i 
 
 1 
 
 lOi 
 
 i§ 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 \o\ 
 
 2 
 
 15i 
 
 U 
 
 161 
 
 H 
 
 18 
 
 b 
 
 23 
 
 t 
 
 i>5 
 
 3i 
 
 28§ 
 
 o\ 
 
 32 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 4 
 
 38 
 
 Leighton Furnace 
 
 Beethani 
 
 Milltborpe 
 
 Heversham 
 
 Levens 
 
 Lindale 
 
 Newton 
 
 Newby Bridge 
 
 Bouth 
 
 Penny Bridge 
 
 Ulverston 
 
 The new road from Lancaster to Ulverston is 
 scarcely less pleasant in its prospects, and runs over 
 much more even ground; it is several miles shorter 
 than the old one. From Carnforth, on the way to 
 Millthorpe, it passes between the Burton and War- 
 ton roads, and joins the one from Lancaster through 
 Warton to Millthorpe at Beetham, and even in that 
 distance, reduces the length nearly two miles. 
 
 Burton in Kendal, though not lying in our rout, 
 may here be noticed, as Some approach the lakes by 
 that road proceeding thence to Millthorpe. Burton
 
 2 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 in Kendal is twenty-two miles from Lancaster, just 
 beyond which, on our right, we may observe Farlton 
 knot, a beautiful naked limestone mountain, said to 
 bear a striking resemblance to the rock of Gibraltar. 
 
 From Lancaster to JJherston ^ 
 
 A new road from Lancaster to XJlverston is com- 
 pleted, and forms a safer and more convenient com- 
 munication between the two towns, than the former 
 read over the sands. It likewise affords a more level 
 road to Kendal fromUlverston, some parts of Cart mel 
 and Witherslack; and as this road passes Levcns, it 
 is within three miles of joining the main road from 
 Leeds, and all the western part of Yorkshire. 
 
 Those who set out from Lancaster may enjoy one of 
 the finest afternoon rural views in England. The 
 best station for this purpose, is on the south side of 
 the great or Queen's road, a little higher than where 
 Mr. Grey stood; for the vale of theriver Lune is in 
 full display. What is called the wheel of Lune is a 
 high crowded isthmus, fringed with tall trees, some 
 of which still conceal the nakedness of Caton moor 
 on the right. 
 
 'I'he vale of Lune, all the way from Lancaster to 
 Hornby (nine miles), is singularly beautiful, fiornby 
 castle, though of various dates and archiiecture, is a 
 fine object from many points. Persons limited to 
 time may leave the vaie of Lune and pass direct 
 from Lancaster by May of Kendal and Bowness to 
 Ambleside, or through Ulverston and by Coniston 
 water to Ambleside. 
 
 from Lancaster to Hestbank the distance is three 
 miles. The Lancaster sands, which commence here, 
 are nine miles over. On the right is a bold shore, 
 deeply indented in some places, and opening into 
 bays in others ; valleys that stretch far into the coun- 
 try, bounded on each side by hanging grounds, cut 
 into inclosures, interspersed with groves and woods, 
 adorned with seqv:(N'ered cols, farms, villages, 
 churches, and castles; mouDtains behind mountains,
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &:c. 3 
 
 and othera again just seen over them, close the first 
 scene. Entering on the sands to the left, Heysham 
 point rises abruptly, and the village is seen upon its 
 side. Over the vast extent of sand. Peel Castle, the 
 ancient bulwark of the bay, rears its venerable head 
 above ihe tide. A fine sweep of country appears 
 sloping to the south. VVarton Cragg presents itself 
 to the right "svith the ruins of a beacon on itssnmmit. 
 Grounds, variegated to the eye by every pleasing 
 form for manv a mile, are terminated by the cloud- 
 topped Ingleborough. A little further, on the same 
 hand, another vale opens to the sands, and shows a 
 broken ridge of rocks. Castle Steads, a pyramidal 
 hill, rising above the station at Kendal, is now seen. 
 At the bottom of the bay stands Arnside Tower, 
 once a mansion of the Stanleys. 
 
 Cartmel is placed in a luxuriantly wooded valley j 
 the church rises grandlv, and is an interesting object 
 from many points. The streets are narrow, the 
 houses irregularly built, and the chief support of the 
 inhabitants is derived from the expenditure of the 
 numerous persons who visit this place in the sum- 
 mer months, on account of the medicinal properties 
 of its medicinal spring, or well, situated at the base 
 of a projecting rock, about three miles to the south 
 of the town. 
 
 The Cartmel Coast now becomes more pleasing. 
 Betwixt that and Silver-dale-nab, a mountain of 
 naked rock, there is a great break in the coast, 
 through which runs the river Kent. In the mouth 
 of the estuary are two beautiful conical isles, which 
 often seem to vary their appearance as we approach 
 them. Here a grand view of the Westmorland 
 mountains opens ; and at the head of the estuary just 
 mentioned, Heversham village and church appear 
 under a beautiful green hill. On the north is Whit- 
 barrow Scar, a huge arched and bended cliff. At 
 the side of the Eau, or river of the sands, a guide on 
 horseback, called the Carter, waits to conduct pas- 
 sengers over the Ford. It is three miles across from
 
 4 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 Cork-lane, where we quit the sands, to Sand-gate : 
 we then pass through Flookburgh once a market- 
 town. The Ford over the river Leven, between 
 Flookburgh and Ulverston, is subject to many chan- 
 ges; but when higher up the river, the way to the 
 sands is bv Holker Hall, or VVarf-flat. • 
 
 Holker Hall is embosomed in wood. On the left, 
 Ulverston bay opens into the great bay and is three 
 miles over: on the right, a fine slope of enclosed 
 grounds, mixed with wood, leads the eye to Ulverston ; 
 the port and mart of Furness-Conishead then shews 
 its pyramidal summit completely clothed in woods ; 
 at its feet is the priorv. Bardsea stands in a delight- 
 ful point of view under its rocks and hanging woods. 
 A white house on the sea bank, under the cover of a 
 deep wood, has a picturesque appearance. The 
 road from Backbarrow to Bi^land Hall to Cartmel, 
 placed in a luxuriant vallev, has fine scenery attach- 
 ed to it. Wraysholm Tower, an old farm-house, is 
 half a mile to the left of the traveller as he passes 
 between sand and sand; and near it is Humphrey 
 Head, a promontory rising boldly from the sea, and 
 at the foot of this hill is the famous Spa called Holy 
 Well, said to be serviceable in cutaneous disorders. 
 Cork Hall is an ancient farm-house ; Grange,situated 
 on a steep bank, above the sea, three miles east of 
 Cartmel, is esteemed the most picturesque village 
 in that neighbourhood. On crossing the Leven 
 sands to Ulverston, on the right, we have a grand 
 view of alpine scenery. 
 
 Whilst a traveller is passing Lancaster Sands, his 
 notice is not so much attracted by the objects of the 
 surrounding country, as by the sand$ thnnaelves. 
 For when he has got a few miles from the shore, the 
 nature of the plain on which he treads cannot but 
 suggest a series of ideas of a different kind from 
 those of rural elegance, and which naturallv force 
 themselves upon his attention. The plain is then 
 seemingly immense in extent, continued on in a dead 
 level, and uniform in appearance. A$ he pursues hi^
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND. &C. 5 
 
 often trackless way, he will recollect, that probably* 
 but a few hours before, the whole expanse was co- 
 vered with some fathoms of water, and that in a few 
 more, it will as certainly be covered as^ain. At the 
 same time he may also perceive on his left hand, the 
 retreated Ocean ready to obey the mysterious laws of 
 its irresistible movement, without any visible barrier 
 to stay it a moment where it is. These considera- 
 tions, though they may not be sufficient to alarm, 
 must yet be able to rouse the mind to a style of more 
 than ordinary attention. But when the traveller 
 reaches the side of the Eaiiy these affections will be 
 greatly increased : he there drops down a gentle 
 descent to the edge of a broad and seemingly im- 
 passable river, where the only remains he can per- 
 ceive of the surrounding lands, are the tops of dis- 
 tant mountains. But having crossed the river, the 
 stranger traveller, at length freed from every petty 
 anxiety, will feel more inclination to survey the ob- 
 jects around him, especially those peculiar to an 
 arm of the sea; as fishermen, ships, sea-fowl, shells, 
 weeds, &c. But if the sun shine forcibly, he will per- 
 haps be most entertained with observing the little 
 gay promontories of land that seem to hover in the 
 air, or swim on a luminous vapour, that rises from 
 the sand, and fluctuates upon its surface. 
 EXCURSION II. 
 Ulverston to Furness Abbey. 
 
 Miles. Miles. 
 
 Ulverston to Dalton . . | 5^ 
 
 Fnrness Abbey . . 1| I 7 
 
 Back to Ulverston . . 7 | 14 
 
 Ulverston, by the western side of the Lake, to the New Inn 
 
 at Coniston Water Head, 
 Ulverston to Bowdray Bridge, near Nib- 
 
 thwaite, either by Lowick, or by Penny 
 
 Bridge ... 8f 
 
 Oxen Houses . . , 3 11| 
 
 Torver . . . 2 13 J 
 
 Coniston Church . , . 2J 16 
 
 Inn at Watet Head . . . i ir
 
 6 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 But the Road usually traxelled is by the eastern side of the 
 J^ke. 
 
 MUcj. Miles. 
 
 To Nibthwaite . | l 8| 
 
 New Inn . , • I "i | 16 
 
 From l31ver?ton the road turns to the southward, 
 and we pass Conishead Priory and Bardsea hall on 
 the left. The village of Pennington lies at a short 
 distance from the road, on the right, nearly opposite to 
 which, on the left, is thelittletarn orlakeof Urswick; 
 rather more than a mile from which appears Gleaston 
 Castle. Proceeding through the village of Lindal 
 we leave Titup on the right, Adgerly and Stainton 
 on the left, and arrive at Dalton. 
 
 The magnificent remains of the Abhey of FurnesSj 
 situated about a mile south of Dalton, in a valley 
 called Beacon's Gill, are very correctly described by 
 the elegant pen of Mrs. Radcliff. 
 
 Beneath the brow on which the Church of Dalton 
 and tower stand, a brook flows through a narrow val- 
 ley, that winds about a mile and a half to the abbey. 
 In the way thither, we passed the entrance of one of 
 the very rich iron mines, with which the neighbour- 
 hood abounds; and the deep red tint of the soil that 
 overspreads almost the whole of the country between 
 Ulverston and the monastery, sufficiently indicates 
 the nature of the treasures beneath. 
 
 " In a close glen, branching from the valley, 
 shrouded by winding banks, clumped with old groves 
 of oak and chesnut, we found the magnificent re- 
 mains of Furness Abbey. The deep retirement of 
 its situation, the venerable grandeur of its gothic 
 arches, and the luxuriant, yet ancient trees, that sha- 
 dow this forsaken spot, are circumstances of pictu- 
 resque, and, if the expression may be allowed, of sen- 
 timental beauty, which fill the mind with solemn, yet 
 delightful, emotion. This glen is called the Vale of 
 Nightshade, or, more literally from its ancient title, 
 Bekangsgill, * the glen of deadly nightshade,* that 
 plant being abundantly found in the neighbourhood, 
 c 2
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, SiC. 7 
 
 **Its romantic gloom, and sequestered privacy, 
 particniarly adapted it to the austerities of monastic 
 life; and in the most retired partof it,King Stepljen, 
 while Earlof Mortaign and Bulloign, founded, in the 
 year 1127, the magnificent monastery of Furness, 
 and endowed it with princely vvealth and almost 
 princely authority, in which it was second only to 
 Fontaine's Abbey, in Yorkshire. 
 
 ** The windings of the glen conceal these venera- 
 ble ruins, till they are closely approached ; and the 
 by-road that conducted us, is margined with a few 
 ancient oaks, which stretch their broad branches 
 entirely across it, and are fine preparatory objects 
 to the scene beyond. A sudden bend in this road 
 brought us within a view of the northern gate of the 
 abbey, a beautiful gothic arch, one side of which is 
 luxuriantly festooned with nightshade. A thick 
 grove of plane trees, with someoakaud beech, over- 
 shadow it on the right, and lead the eye onward to 
 the ruins of the abbey, seen through this dark arch 
 in remote perspective, over rough but verdant 
 ground. The principal features are the northern 
 window, and partof the eastern choir, with glini|)ses 
 of shattered arches and stately walls beyond, caught 
 between the gaping casements. On the left, the 
 bank of the glen is broken into knolls, capped with 
 oaks, which, in some places, spread downwards to a 
 stream that winds round the ruin, and darken it with 
 their rich foliage. Through this gate is the entrance 
 to the immediate precincts of the abbey, an area, 
 said to contain 65 acres, now called the deer-park; 
 it is inclosed by a stone wall, on which the remains 
 of many small buildings, and the faint vestiges of 
 others, still appear; such as the porter's lodge, mills, 
 granaries, ovens, and kilns, that once supplied the 
 monastery ; some of which, seen under the shade of 
 fine old trees, that on every side adorn the broken 
 steeps of this glen, have a very interesting eftect. 
 
 **Just within the gate, a small manor-house of 
 modern date, with its stables and other offices, breaks 
 c2
 
 8 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 discordantly upon the lonely grandeur of the scene. 
 Except this, the character of the deserted ruins is 
 scrupulously preserved in the surrounding area: no 
 spade has dared to level the inequalities which fallen 
 fragments have occasioned in the ground, or shears 
 to clip the wild underwood thatoverspreadr.it; but 
 every circumstance conspires to heighten the solitary 
 grace of the principal object, and to prolong the lux- 
 urious melancholy which the view of it inspires. We 
 made our way among the pathless fern and grass to 
 the north end of the church, now, like every other 
 part of the abbey, entirely roofless ; but shewing the 
 lofty arch of the great window, where, instead of the 
 painted glass that once enriched it, are now tufted 
 plants, and wreaths of nightshade. Below is the 
 principal door of the church, bending into a deep 
 round arch, which, retiring circle within circle, is 
 rich and beautiful ; the remains of a winding stair- 
 case are visible within the wall on its left side. Near 
 this northern end of the edifice, is seen one side of 
 the eastern choir^ with its two slender gothic win- 
 dow frames ; and on the west, a remnant of the nave 
 of the abbey, and some lofty arches, which once be- 
 longed to the belfry, now detached from the main 
 building. 
 
 " To the south, but concealed from this point of 
 view, is the chapter-house, someyears ago exhibiting 
 a roof of beautiful gothic fret-work, and v/hich was 
 almost the only part of the abbey thus ornamented ; 
 its architecture having been characterized by an air 
 of grand simplicity, rather than by the elegance and 
 richness of decoration, which at an after date, dis- 
 tinguished the gothic style in England. Over the 
 chapter-house were once the library and scriptorium ; 
 and beyond it are still the remains of cloisters, of the 
 refectory, the locutorium, or conversation room, 
 and the calefactory. These, with the walls of some 
 chapels, of the vestry, a hall, and of what is be- 
 lieved to have been a school-house, are all the fea- 
 tures of this noble edifice that can easily be traced : 
 winding itair-cases within the surprising thickness of
 
 LAKES OF GUMBERLAMD, &C. 9 
 
 the walls, and door-cases involved in darkness and 
 mystery, the place abounds with. 
 
 ** The abbey, which was formerly of such magni- 
 tude as nearly to fill uj) the breadth of the glen, is 
 built of a pale red stone, dug from the neighbouring 
 rocksjupw changed by time and weather to a tint of 
 dusky brown, which accords well with the hues of 
 plants and shrubs, that every where emboss the moul- 
 dering arches. 
 
 " The finest view of the ruin is on the east side, 
 where, beyond the vast shattered frame that once 
 contained a rich painted window, is seen a perspec- 
 tive of the choir and of the distant arches ; remai ns of 
 the nave of the abbey, closed by the woods. This 
 perspectiveof the ruin is said to be 287 feet in length j 
 the choir part of it is in width only 38 feet inside^ 
 but the nave is 70: the walls, as they novr stand, are 
 54 feet high, and in thickness five. Southward from 
 the choir, extend the still beautiful, though broken, 
 pillars and arcades of some chapels now laid open to 
 the day j the chapter-house, the cloisters, and, be- 
 yond all, and detached from all, is the school-house, 
 a large building, the only part of the monastery that 
 still boasts a roof. 
 
 *< As soothed by the venerable shades, and the view 
 of a more venerable ruin, we rested opposite to the 
 eastern window of the choir, where once the high 
 altar stood, and with five other altars, assisted the 
 religious pomp of the scene, the images and the man- 
 ner of times that were past, rose to reflection. The 
 midnight procession of monks, clothed in white, and 
 bearing lighted tapers, appeared to the " mind's eye" 
 issuing to the choir through the very door-case by 
 which such processions were wont to pass from the 
 cloisters to perform the matin service, when, at the 
 moment of their entering the church, the deep chant- 
 ing of voices was beard, and the organ swelled a so- 
 lemn peal. To Fancy, the strain still echoed feebly 
 along the arcades, and died in the breeze among the 
 woods, the rustling leave* mingling with the close, 
 c S
 
 10 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 It wat easy to image the abbot and the officiating 
 
 priests, seated beneath the richly-fretted canopy of 
 the four stalls, that still remain entire in the southern 
 v/all, and high over M'hich is now perched a solitary 
 yew-tree, a black funereal memento to the living of 
 those who once sat below. 
 
 " Of a quadrangular court on the west side of the 
 church, SS4 feet long, and 102 feet wide, little ves- 
 tige now appears, except the foundation of a range 
 of cloisters, that formed its western boundary, and 
 under the shade of which the monks, on days of high 
 solemnity, passed in their customary procession 
 round the court. What was the belfry is now a huge 
 mass of detached ruin, picturesque from the loftiness 
 of its shattered arches, and the high inequalities of 
 the ground within them, where the tower that once 
 crowned thisbuilding, having fallen, lies in vastfrag- 
 ments, now covered with earth and grass, and no lon- 
 ger distinguishable but by the hillock -they form. 
 
 *' The school-house, a heavy structure, attached 
 to the boundary wall on the south, is nearly entire, 
 and the walls, particularlyof the portal, are of enor- 
 mous thickness j but, here and there, a chasm dis- 
 closes the staircases, that wind within them to the 
 chambers above. The school-room below shews only 
 a stone bench, that extends round the walls, and a 
 low stone pillar in the eastern corner, on which the 
 teacher's pulpit was formerly fixed. The lofty vault- 
 ed roof is scarcely distinguishable, by the dusky light 
 admitted through cne or two narrow windows, plac- 
 ed high from the ground, perhaps for the purpose of 
 confining the scholar's attention to his book. 
 
 *• This once magnificent abbey was dedicated to 
 St. Mary, and received a colony of monks from the 
 monastery of Savigny, in Normandy, who were cal- 
 led grey monks, from their dress of that colour, till 
 they became Cistercians, and with the severe rulw 
 of St. Bernard, adopted a white habit, which they 
 retained till the dissolutionof monastic orders in En- 
 gland. The original rules of St. Bernard partook,
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 11 
 
 in several instances, of the austeritiea of those of La 
 Trappe, and the society did not very readily relin- 
 quish the milder laws of St. Benedict, for the nevr 
 rigours imposed upon them by the parent monas- 
 tery of Savigny. They were forbidden to taste Hesh, 
 except when ill, and even eggs, butter, cheese, and 
 milk, but on extraordinary occasions; and denied 
 even the use of linen and fur. The monks were di- 
 vided into two classes, to which separate departments 
 belonged. Those who attended the choir slept upon 
 straw, in their usual habits, from which at midnight 
 they rose and passed into the church, where they 
 continued their hymns during the short remainder 
 of the night. After this first mass, having publicly 
 confessed themselves, they retired to their cells, and 
 the day was employed in spiritual exercises, and in 
 copying or illuminating manuscripts. An unbroken 
 silence was observed, except when after dinner they 
 •withdrew into the Locutorium, where for an hour 
 they were permitted the common privileges of so- 
 cial beings. This class was confined to the boundary 
 wall, except that on some particular days the mem- 
 bers of it were allowed to walk in parties beyond it, 
 for exercise and amusement; but they were seldom 
 permitted either to receive or pay visits. Like the 
 monks of La Trappe, however, they were distin- 
 guished for extensive charities, probably consisting 
 of such meat, oftal, &c. which they could not other- 
 wise dispose of; hence poor travellers were lo scru- 
 pulously entertained at the abbey, that it was not till 
 the dissolution that an inn was thought necessary in 
 this pait of Furness, when one was opened for the 
 accommodation of people of business, of which there 
 were few or none before. 
 
 *• This was the second house in England that receiv- 
 ed theBernardine rules, the most rigorous of which, 
 however, were dispensed with in 1485, by Sixtus 
 IV., when, among other indulgences, the whole order 
 "was allowed to taste meat on three days of the week. 
 With the rules of St. Benedict the monks had ex-
 
 ii EXCURSIONS TO TUB 
 
 changed the grey habit for a white cassock, with a 
 white caiil and scapulary. But their choir dress was 
 either white or grey, wiih caul and scapulary of the 
 same, and a girdle of black wool j over that a mozet, 
 or hood, and a rochet. When they went abroad, 
 they wore a caul and full black hood. 
 
 " The deep forests that once surrounded the abbey 
 and overspread all Furness, contributed, with its in- 
 sulated situation, on a neck of land running out into 
 the sea, to secure it from the depredations of the 
 Scots, who were continually committing hostilities 
 on the borders. On a summit over the abbey are 
 the remains of a beacon or watch-tower, raised by 
 the society for their further security. It commands 
 extensive views over Low Furness, and the bay of 
 the sea immediately beneath *, looking forward to the 
 town and castle of Lancaster, appearing faintly on 
 the opposite coast ; on the south to the isles of VVal- 
 ney, Foudrey, and their numerous islets, on one of 
 which stands Peel Castle ; and on the north to the 
 mountains of High Furness and Conislone, rising in a 
 grand amphitheatre round this inlet of the Irish 
 Channel. 
 
 " From Hawcoat, a few miles to the west of Fur- 
 ness, the view is still more extensive, whence, in a 
 clear day, the whole length of the Isle of Man may 
 be seen, with a part of Anglesea, and the mountains 
 of Caernarvon, Merionethshire, Derbyshire, and 
 Flintshire, shadowing the opposite sides of the horizon 
 of the channel. 
 
 The country to the north west of Dalton is plea- 
 santly diversified, and is crossed by the ancient road 
 into Cumberland, which ascending into the market 
 place at Dalton, traverses the rocky eminence above 
 the town ; then winds across a narrow vale to St. 
 Helen's Chapel, and descending into the vale of 
 Goldmire, proceeds to Roanhead, and over Duddon 
 sands. On the side of a pleasant vale, about three 
 miles and a half to the south of Dalton, we come to 
 the ruins of Gleaston Castle, the ancient residence of
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 13 
 
 the lords of Aldingham. From Dalton to Gleaston 
 is a pleasant ride of four miles. Dendron, the next 
 place, two miles and a half from Dalton, is shaded 
 with trees } on the sea shore, two or three miles from 
 Gleaston, is Aldingham. Here stood Aldingham 
 Hall, the residence of the Fleming family. On the 
 banks of Urswick Tarn stand the church and villages 
 of Great and Little Urswick. Swartmoor Hall, be- 
 tween Urswick and Ulverston, was the residence of 
 George Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends. 
 
 The road from Ulverston by Penny Bridge, to 
 Coniston Water, though it has not the advantage of 
 distant prospects like those on the Lowick road, has, 
 nevertheless, many charmsi From Penny Bridge 
 there is, on each side of the river Crake, a pretty 
 road to Coniston Water; that on the western side is 
 the principal. Coniston Water is six miles in length, 
 and its greatest breadth three quarters of a mile. 
 The carriage road that encloses it is often on the 
 margin, and scarcely ever a mile from it. The views 
 on each side of this lake are interesting by their 
 variety and beauty. From West's station the road 
 ascends rather steeply from the margin of the lake, 
 and soon passes Coniston Bank, the seat of Thomas 
 North, Esq. Bank ground, the residence of JVlr, 
 Thomas Macreth, is nearer the head of the lake 
 than Coniston Bank. About three quarters of a mile 
 from the inn, the Hawkshead and Coniston road 
 leaves that to Coniston ; but Tent Lodge, the seat of 
 George Smith, Esq. soon presents itself on the left. 
 From the back grounds of this house, the slate quar- 
 ry is seen about a quarter of a mile distant. From 
 Tent Lodge to the mn, Waterhead house, the seat 
 of Michael Knott, Esq. is occasionally seen. The 
 new inn at Waterhead affords good entertainment. 
 C/iaVy though only in high season during the winter 
 months, is, nevertheless, kept in coops for the ac- 
 commodation of strangers. Boats are let by Mr. 
 Whittle for the use of tourists ; the house adjoins 
 the road, and this is near the lake j the grandest scene
 
 14 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 is about two miles from the head and from the mid- 
 dle. Looking towards the mountains, the lake 
 spreads itself into a noble expanse of transparent 
 water, and bursts into a bay on each side, bordered 
 with verdant meadows and enclosed with a variety 
 of grounds. 
 
 The prevailing character of Coniston Lake is the 
 romantic ; and thi« character gives such scope to the 
 imagination, and where it is prominent, the beauty 
 of the landscape must be supreme. The small island 
 covered with shrubs that rises in the centre, adds to 
 its picturesque effect, which is increased by ihe black 
 peak of Torverand Coniston Hall, a grey ivied man- 
 sion. Nothing can be more delightful than the na- 
 vigation of this lake. Nor is a ride round iis shores 
 less attractive. Farther down is a single c- ttage on 
 the lake's brink, screened by a thick ccjise that 
 rises up the bank. Behind these are a range of rug- 
 ged rocks, in a dark semi-circle, enclosed b\ the Co- 
 niston Fells and the rocks of Torver, huge, black, 
 and stupendous ; while the unexplored mountains of 
 Cove, Rydal Head, and others without a name, over- 
 top the whole. Persons who visit these romantic 
 regions may be satisfied with learning, that the horses 
 are sure footed and easy, the guides civil, attentive, 
 and sober, and the inns clean, comfortable, and rea- 
 sonable. 
 
 Some years ago, a few lines appeared in the public 
 prints, said to have been presented by Mr. Southey 
 to a guide who conducted him through some passes 
 in Switzerland, and who, on leaving him, requested 
 a character. Since that time, with a small alteration, 
 they have been adapted to a guide belonging to one 
 of our own lakes, as follows :— > 
 By my button, this Hutton 
 Is an excellent guide j 
 A horseman, a footman, a boatman beside, 
 A Geologician, a Metaphysician, 
 Who searches how causes proceed, 
 A system invcnter, an experimenter.
 
 LAKES OP CUMBERLAND, &C. 15 
 
 He'll raise Epemedium for seed. 
 
 Each rock and each dell, he knows it full well, 
 
 The minerals and fossils therein ; 
 
 Each mountain and fountain, the lakes and the brakes. 
 
 Every town every village and inn. 
 
 Take him for your guide, he has often been tried. 
 
 And was always found useful, when needed, 
 
 In fair or foul weather you may travel together. 
 
 And shake hands at parting, as we did. 
 
 A neat gothic residence has lately been erected 
 near the head of Coniston Water, by a gentleman 
 fram Bristol. The architecture much resembles that 
 of AJdclifleHall. At the head of the lake some of the 
 mountains of Coniston, Yewdale, and Tilberthwaite, 
 locally brown, grey, and purple, are softened down 
 into the most harmonious views, and beyond them 
 areRydal, Grassmere, and Wythburn, which from 
 their great distance frequently mix with the azure 
 of the heavens above them ; but, between the high 
 lands and the lake at its head, the eve may discover 
 in little white and grey specks, various habitations 
 sparkling from amongst the trees. Among the dis- 
 tant mountains, Fairfield and Helvellyn are the prin- 
 cipal. 
 
 At Oxen-houses the road leaves Coniston Lake, 
 after which, for a considerable distance it only ap- 
 pears in retrospect, southward, and towards Nib- 
 thwaite. At Torvei', the traveller will join the public 
 road from Broughton to Ambleside. From Torver 
 to Coniston, the mountains are occasionally shutout 
 by intervening pastures and meadow grounds, inter- 
 spersed with farm-houses and cottages, till he arrives 
 at the bridge and church of Coniston, near which 
 there is an excellent public-house. Coniston Hall 
 stands on the margin of the lake, about a mile from 
 the church, on the right hand. This noble ruin has 
 been spoiled by severing the projecting wings from 
 the main body of the building ; the chambers of this 
 ancient hall are now used as depositories for com. 
 
 A peep of the lake on the right, carries th« eye
 
 16 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 nearly to its head, in a saccession of pretty bays; 
 and the fells of Yewdale form an interesting back- 
 ground to the whole. 
 
 x'\bout half way between Coniston church and the 
 inn on the left, we come to Thwaite under the brow 
 of a venerable wood ; this was the residence of the 
 late David Kirkby, Esq. But to return to Lowick 
 bridge, in order to conduct the tourist up to the east- 
 ern side of Coniston Water ; Mr. West says, a little 
 above the village of Nibthwaite, the lake opens in full 
 view. Two promontories, however, project a great 
 way into it. A house may also be seen on the crown 
 of a rock, covered with ancient trees, that presents a 
 most romantic appearance. 
 
 The grand cluster of Lancashire mountains, pro- 
 bably covering an horizontal area of thirty square 
 miles, is joined by those of Cumberland and West- 
 morland, five or six miles west, and north of the upper 
 part of Coniston Lake. From Coniston Waterhead, 
 Coniston Hall is a fine object ; the Man Mountain, 
 the Carro, and Enfoot, close this admirable scene, 
 which is made much more interesting after heavy 
 showers of rain, by the variety of sparkling "water- 
 falls that issue from the fissures of the mountains. 
 
 EXCURSION IIL 
 
 From the New Inn to Levers Water, 
 
 Miles. Miles. 
 To the Black Bull . . I I i 
 
 North side of Levers Water . I 2| j 3|^ 
 
 If tcith a g-uide, return by low water. 
 
 From Levers Water to Low Water . | 1 I 4| 
 
 Coniston Church . . • I 2 I 6i 
 
 Water Head . . . . | l | 7| 
 
 From the Water Head Inn to YewdaU and Tilberthwaite. 
 
 To Yewdale Grove 
 Low Yewdale . . 
 
 Shepherd's Bridge 
 Tilberthwaite 
 
 Junction of the Langdale Road from 
 Ambleside 
 
 1 
 i 
 If 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 H 
 
 4 
 61
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 
 
 Return to Shepherd's Bridge. 
 
 ir 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 Milei. 
 21 
 
 8 
 
 From the Inn by Yewdale Grove 
 
 Yew Tree 
 
 The Inn at Water Head 
 
 If Tilberthwaite be added 
 
 And Langdale 
 
 Llverswater. 
 
 A mountain trip rarely equalled is that by the 
 Black Bull in Coniston to Leverswater. The road 
 is steep and angular, bearing in its progress to every 
 point in the compass. Two copper-mines are passed ; 
 one near the outlet of the tarn. Leverswater is 
 probably a mile in circumference ; it is enclosed by 
 steep and craggy heights, on all sides, but to the 
 south-west of Leverswater, about a mile distant, is 
 the small lake called Goat's Tarn, which, like Levers- 
 urater, communicates with Coniston Water, but 
 nearer to its centre and bv a more circuitous passage. 
 The best wav to this place is to leave the Walna 
 Scar road, where that to the old quarry deviates on 
 the rij^'ht ; from which road the grand rocks, called 
 Dove Crag, rising majestically above Goat's Water, 
 are in full view ; and on the left the way winding up 
 the breast of Walna Scar. Goat's Water is scarcely 
 half a mile long ; its stony margin on the east is 
 profuse in foregrounds for the towering rocks on the 
 other side. Numerous are the ravens that occasion- 
 ally visit these craggy summits. 
 
 Dark frowns the cliff upon the mountain stream. 
 
 That 'gainst its time-strewn fragments breaks below. 
 
 And all in unison its waters flow 
 
 With the wild scene around. — The wailing scream 
 
 Of the lone raven from the stunted yew. 
 
 Heard ominous, alone its solitude 
 
 Disturbs ; and, on the awe-struck mind intrude, 
 
 Thoughts, that its inmost energies subdue 
 
 To theirstrong workings.— On the rocky steep 
 
 Dimly the gre^-haired sou of long appears;
 
 18 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 While o'er the harp bis airy fingers sweep. 
 
 And at his bidding forms of other years 
 
 Start into being. — Mighty men of yore. 
 
 Like the wild (fi-eams that fushion'd them — no more. 
 
 The ascent from Goat's Water to Seathwaite Tarn, 
 is over a pass little inferior in height to the top of the 
 Man, or any of its neighbouring summits. 
 Yewdale Crag. 
 
 From Leverswater there is a way to Low Water, 
 a little lake just under the top of the Old Man, but 
 this is rugged ground and should not be undertaken 
 without a guide. Yewdale Grove, the seat of T. 
 Woodville, esq. is about a quarter of a mile from 
 Coniston church. The road to Yewdale Grove 
 is chiefly over easy ground. Leaving this, a river, 
 rumbling on the right, displays a succession of 
 pretty little waterfalls. The features of Yewd tie 
 Crag are peculiar, being formed of perpendicular 
 rocks, which rise in embattled perspective to a vast 
 height : from the rocks and spaces between the 
 crown of one rock and the base of another, oak, ash, 
 and birch trees, riot in wild abundance. The road 
 is pleasant all the way to Shepherd's bridge. 
 
 From this place, having the moor on the right, 
 there is a road through Tilberthwaite to Little Lang- 
 dale, passing some of the greatest slate quarries in 
 the county. Penny Rigg is the first quarry on the 
 left. The first house in Tilberthwaite has one of 
 those old-fashioned slate galleries, formerly so com- 
 mon in this country. Beyond this place the road 
 ascends, and from its summit the mountains of Seath- 
 waite, Eskdale, Great and Little Langdale, recreate 
 the sight all the way to the old Bell-horse road from 
 Kendal to Whitehaven, over Hardknot and Wrynose, 
 with which it joins near Langdale Tarn. From 
 Shepherd's Bridge there is a road to Ambleside, 
 keeping the river on the left. From Shepherd's 
 Bridge to the yew tree is scarcely a mile : here are 
 also a few houses called by the same name. Leaving 
 these the road crosses a stream issuing from three
 
 LAKES OF CUMBRRLAND, &:C. 19 
 
 little tarns in the bosom of the mountains, and soon 
 joins one from Ambleside, by Skel-with Bridge. 
 EXCURSION IV. 
 From the New Inn to Seathwaite. 
 
 Coiiiston Church 
 
 Torver .... 
 
 Broiighton 
 
 Duddon Bridj^c 
 
 Ulplia Kirkhoiise 
 
 Newfield, near Seatliwaite Chapel 
 
 Or, nearer, 'passing Broughton Mills 
 to Torver . . . . ' 
 
 BroDghton Mills 
 Newfield . . 
 
 Or, sWl nearer, and more rich in Prospects, 
 to Coniston Church . . . 
 
 Runner from Goat's-water 
 Top of Walna Scar . 
 Newfield .... 
 
 These Roads form two Routes, first by Broughton, 
 returning over Walna Scar, 23 J miles ; 
 
 Or, by Broughton Mills, returning over Walua Scar, 
 18§ miles. 
 
 About a mile beyond Torver Church, seven miles 
 on this side Broughton, there is the choice of two 
 roads; the old road is over high ground, and com- 
 mands a view of the river Duddon, with the beau- 
 tiful shores of Lancashire and Cumberland stretch- 
 ing each way from its margin. Broughton Tower 
 seated on the crown of a hill, is an interesting ob- 
 ject; at length fertility is gradually lost in the su- 
 periorheightsof Black Comb in Cumberland, and the 
 high lands betv/een Kirby and Ul version. The 
 river Duddon is famous for its cockles and muscles, 
 which are large and well flavoured. This river 
 is navigable for small craft almost to Duddon- 
 Bridge, only one mile from the town of Broughton. 
 The views from the bridge, either on the Lancashire 
 or Cumbeiland side, are very fine. Ulpha Crag is a 
 D 2 
 
 liles. 
 
 T.-.ilea. 
 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 3| 
 
 7 
 
 3 0* 
 
 1 
 
 111 
 
 3i 
 
 ]'> 
 
 2 
 
 I'i- 
 
 
 t^\ 
 
 ry 
 
 •c", 
 
 4 
 
 m 
 
 ts, 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 6
 
 20 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 Striking feature in these scenes. About a mile above 
 the bridge is the seat of Richard Towers, Esq. sur- 
 rounded by rich wood and rocky elevations. Haws 
 Bridge, something higher on the river, consists of two 
 arches, which spring from perpendicular rocks at 
 least three yards above the water. 
 
 At Ulpha Kirk House, more than four miles from 
 Broughton, where there is a little inn, the road 
 enters Cumberland : the church is not far from the 
 bridge. 
 
 Goldrill Crag, on the right of the Duddon, about 
 two miles from Seathwaite Chapel, is in Cumber- 
 land; it is a beautiful scene, and different in its cha- 
 racter to any other about the lakes. From hence 
 it is about two miles to the top of Wrynose, the ex- 
 tremity of Seathwaite. 
 
 DONKERDALE, 
 
 Or the "Vale of the Duddon, and the adjoining 
 Vale of the Esk, it is said are rarely visited by tra- 
 rellers. Donnerdale is best approached by Coniston 
 over Walna Scar, down to Seathwaite, New-field, 
 and to the rocks where the river issues from a narrow 
 pass into the broad vale. The stream is very inter- 
 esting a full mile beyond this point, and below, by 
 Ulpha Kirk, till it enters the sands, where it is over- 
 looked by the solitary mountain Black Comb. 
 *' Close by the sea, lone sentinel, 
 Black Comb his forward station keeps; 
 He breaks the sea's tumultuous swell, 
 Andponders o'er the level deeps ; 
 He listens to the bugle horn, 
 Where Eskdale's lovely valley bends; 
 Eye's Walney's early fields of corn, 
 Sea-dirds to Holkers wood he sends- 
 An ingenious writer in the Lonsdale Magazine, 
 thus describes a visit to the vale of Duddon, on the 
 evening of the IQth of Ociober, 1820. 
 
 Having passed through Spark Bridge, a village 
 on the river Crake, I observed a furnace and a cot-
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 21 
 
 ton manufactory, appearances more manufacturing 
 than pastoral. From Lowick there is a grand view 
 of the Conistone mountains on my right: — the Old 
 Man is seen rising between two others, but towering 
 far above them. I enquired the name of this moun- 
 tain from a boy trundling a hoop, and from a woman 
 who had, probably, lived all her life within sight of 
 it, but neither could give me the desired information. 
 This reminded me of a circumstance somewhat 
 similar that occurred to a friend of mine, when 
 travelling in this part of the country. Having in- 
 quired of a woman whom he met, the name of a 
 hill within view? She replied, in angry tone, that 
 " she knew nothing about it, she had something 
 else to do than go maundering about enquiring the 
 names of hills," — The road from Lowick passes over 
 Kirkby fell, on which there are some slate quarries. 
 I went into one close by the roadside, in which there 
 were about a dozen men at work. An old man was 
 employed on the almost perpendicular side of the 
 rock, fifteen or twenty yards from the bottom. He 
 had only a very narrow space to stand upon, and 
 what apparently increased his danger, was his hav- 
 ing on his feet, what they call in this country clogs, 
 which aie shoes with wooden soles, shod with iron. 
 He W2S working with an iron ci'ow. The least ac- 
 cident might cause him to lose his centre of gravity, 
 and then nothing could save him from instant de- 
 struction, but laying hold of a rope which hung 
 near him, suspended from above. He said he had 
 worked in the quarry more than thirty years. When 
 within about three or four miles of Broughton, came 
 within sight of the mountain Black Comb, rising 
 dark and majestic on the other side of the vale of 
 Duddon. The little town of Broughton is situated 
 in abroad rich valley, about a mile east of the bridge 
 over the Duddon. I staid all night at the Old King's 
 Head, where I had good accommodation at a mode- 
 rate charge. An intehigent young man, Mr. G— ■, 
 the son of a respectable inhabitant of the place, 
 n S
 
 2"2 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 whom I met with at the inn, though I was quite a 
 stranger to him, oifered to accompany me next 
 morning to a Druidical antiquity in the neighbour- 
 hood. It would seem that Broughton is in a healthy 
 situation, for walking out in the morning before 
 breakfast in the church-yard, the first tomb-stone I 
 met with was in memory of a family remarkable for 
 longevity. It mentioned Mr. VVatters, of Broughton, 
 surgeon, who died 1767» aged 78, and of Anne, his 
 wife, in 1791, aged 104 years. Also, Thomas Wat- 
 ters, aged 101, his wife Mary, 94. Another VVat- 
 ters, 80, and his wife, 84. I was told of another of 
 the family, who died lately at upwards of 100~not 
 commemorated. 
 
 At half past eight I set out with Mr. G. to visit the 
 Druidical circle on Black Comb, called by the coun- 
 try people, " Sunken Church.'' The Duddon is 
 here a fine stream, requiring a bridge of three arches, 
 up to which the tide flows. At a forge, or furnace, 
 we inquired of two of the workmen, black as demons, 
 the road up to the mountain. After rather a steep 
 ascent along a rough wooded road, we arrived at the 
 first level of the mountain, and from a hill had a 
 prospect which well rewarded us, though disappoint- 
 ed in seeing " Sunken Church,'' excepting at a dis- 
 tance. We could perceive it in the middle of a 
 field, about half a mile west of us; but a deep 
 ravine, through which flowed a bridgcless flood, 
 swollen by the late rains, prevented our nearer ap- 
 proach. The summit of the mountain beyond was 
 involved in clouds. But turning to the west, we 
 had a grand view — the town of Broughton below us, 
 lying snugly under a grove of firs — farther south, 
 the estuary of Duddon, filled with the tide, shew- 
 ed a large lake ; with two or three small vessels 
 sailing upon it; — on the other side were seen Kir- 
 by fell, and the fertile tract of Low Furness— 
 and beyond a promontory, the Isle of Walney, with 
 Peel Castle on its extreme southern point. I am 
 told that the prospect from the summit of Black 
 Comb, when the weather is favourable, is one of
 
 LAKES OF CUMHKKLAND, &C. 23 
 
 the finest and most extensive in tlie north of En- 
 gland. We descended the mountain ohliquely to 
 the left. Mr. G. pointed out to me a house, which 
 goes by the name of Thimble Hall. One might 
 wonder from its b'eak and elevated situation, what 
 could have induced any mortal to build it. As its 
 name imports, it was erected by a tailor, who hav- 
 ing emigrated to London, and thriven in business, 
 retained so much love for his native place, (though 
 so unattractive in all other eyes,) as to come here 
 and spend the evening of his days. He is yet well 
 remembered in Broughton; and many times his 
 boon companions from thence made Thimble Hall 
 resound with their merriment. There is a tale told 
 of him. That when in business he had a good round 
 sum owing to him by a few young collegians, at Ox- 
 ford. Being somewhat importunate in his demand 
 for money, they were induced to play him a prank. 
 One of his creditors wrote him a polite letter, apolo- 
 gizing for the delay, and staling, that in order to 
 make some reparation, he and other creditors had 
 agreed to give him an entertainment, and that if he 
 would be kind enough to come down to Oxford they 
 would be glad to see him, and the money should at 
 all events be provided. The Knight of the Thim- 
 ble accordingly posted down. There was no money 
 for him, as may be guessed, but he was so well plied 
 with intoxicating liquors, as to be deprived of all 
 sense and motion — put into a hamper, with a direc- 
 tion, and sent by the coach to his own house in 
 London. When he came to himself he was so 
 ashamed of the circumstance, that he never troubled 
 them afterwards. But it should be mentioned to 
 the honou r of one of these wags, that having succeeded. 
 to a handsome property, he remitted the tailor the 
 amount of his debt, with the interest till the day it 
 was paid. 
 
 We passed Duddon Grove the seat of Richard 
 Towers, Esq, pleasantly situated among waods. 
 
 A new road has been made fiom the Grove up the
 
 24 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 Cumberland side of the river. I here parted with 
 Mr. G. and, after thanking him most cordially for 
 his attention, proceeded alone. The road presently 
 ended in a meadow, being finished no farther — and 
 I had to cross a wood through which there was no 
 path : and as it was wet from the showery weather — 
 this was sufficiently disagreeable. I was told it was 
 doubtful whether this new road would ever be com- 
 pleted. The rains here are so sudden and heavy— 
 and the floods descend with such fury from the 
 mountains, that the conduits are not suflBcient to re- 
 ceive the water, which then flows over the road, 
 washing awav the gravel and stones of which it is 
 composed. Pass Uipha Mill, a new building, still 
 travelling along the new road, with Rainsbarrow, a 
 wooded mountain on my left. Reach the Kirk of 
 Ulpha, a little low edifice with only three windows 
 on a side, and two small bells hanging side by side in 
 the open air, no tomb-stones — nothing but green 
 mounds of earth point out the graves. It was now 
 twelve o'clock, and the sun broke out after a showery 
 morning, and shone sweetly up the valley ; — I stood 
 leaning upon the church wall,—" the river's unseen 
 gentle rear' on the east— two oaks by its side, the 
 one with daj-k brown leaves, the other just fading 
 from its summer green ; — yellow variegated woods 
 on each side of the valley — a little green field on 
 the east, embosomed in wood, with two or three 
 cows quietly feeding, further up and beyond, grey 
 rocky fells, turning to the north, a huge craggy hill 
 appearing to block up the Dale, higher up towards 
 the east, still loftier mountains enveloped in clouds 
 whose summits I have not yet seen. 
 
 Called at the little public-house, near the chapel, 
 kept by John Gunson, but who, to my disappoint- 
 ment, was not at home. I had some curiosity to see 
 him, from hearing the following anecdote. But I 
 must first mention that John is said to be learned, 
 having been educated for a clergyman. Two or 
 three smart young fellows from a neighbouring
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 95 
 
 town, having been out on a Sunday excursion, call- 
 ed upon John, and regaled themselves with h s ale, 
 (for he sells no other liquor,) demanded their bill. 
 John came, and in his country dialect said, " Nay, 
 "we niver niak any bills here," ye have so much to 
 pay, mentioning the sum. " Oh!" replied one of 
 the bucks, <' you cannot -write, that's the cause of 
 your excuse." Upon this our honest landlord retir- 
 ed, and, in a short time, brought them a bill writ- 
 ten out in the Hebrew language, which it need 
 scarcely be said quite puzzled them. — He then sent 
 them one in Greek,and afterwards in Latin, neither of 
 which they could make out. They now begsed that 
 he would tell them what they had to pay, in plain 
 English. John could now laugh heartily at their 
 insolence. 
 
 I now pursue my way up the valley, having the 
 Duddonstill on my right hand. Turninga iittleto the 
 right to inquire the road of a man whom 1 saw stand- 
 ing near a cottage, I was at first surprised that he 
 paid no attention to what I said, but as soon as he 
 perceived me he pointed towards the door. I went 
 in and was told by his mother that he was deaf and 
 dumb, as I suspected : that she had two more chil- 
 dren suffering the same privation, but that they 
 were all able to support themselves by their industry, 
 and had even learned to write. The young man to 
 whom I spoke is about thirty years of age, of a 
 decent appearance without any thing singular, and 
 follows the occupation of weaving. There is another, 
 a daughter, who is apprenticed to a mantua-maker. 
 It was ni>t unpleasant to learn that human beings 
 thus so pitiably deprived, should be able to support 
 themselves and become useful members of society 
 under circumstances apparently so afflictive. They 
 had been born, and lived all their lives in this 
 valley, but the brook that for ever murmurs by 
 their door, has had no music for them — in the 
 language of the poet,
 
 26 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 *• The vale with all its streams 
 Is silent as a picture." 
 
 After walking about half a mile, I crossed the 
 river by a bridge of one arch, -which seems a short 
 time ago tco have been too small for the floods 
 that sometimes rise so suddenly among those moun- 
 tains. The water had run over on one side, wash- 
 ed the stones and gravel from the road, and over- 
 flowed the neighbouring meadows. The vale still 
 continues charming from its primitive simplicity.— 
 No flaring gentleman's house, no shrubberies, no 
 trim gravel walks, — still only sheltei-s the ** shep- 
 herd and his cot" — amid its few green fields, and 
 native woods, planted only by the birds and the 
 winds of heaven." 
 
 I could not but stop for sometime as I came to 
 that part of the vale opposite the tremendous chasm 
 of which Wallow Barrow Cragg forms one side. 
 — The scenery is here so beautiful. — A new white 
 cottage on the left. — Birch trees fading into yellow 
 thinly interspersed amid fern and grey rocks in the 
 mountain side -. — Birch and a kind of elm, with a 
 few oaks and alders rising from the river side — 
 their foliage exhibiting such beautiful variety of 
 hues, so graceful and wild as to appear like enchant- 
 ment. The mountain heads up the dale still shrowd- 
 ed in mist. 
 
 I at length reached a small public house, near 
 Seathwaite Chapel, and as it was past three o'clock, 
 and no other higher up the dale, I determined 
 here to stay all night 
 
 While 1 was dining I found that although a 
 stranger my fame had ti-avelled before me. My 
 landlady inquired if I had seen an old woman as 
 I came up the dale. 1 replied I had; I recollect- 
 ed that one passed me on the road. ** Yes," said 
 she, " she called here, and said she had met with 
 a queer sort of a man ; he sometimes walked quick 
 and passed her, — then he'd come up with her again, 
 and ask her so many strange questions about the
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 27 
 
 fells and crags, that she really could not tell what to 
 make of him, but some how she thought he was'n t 
 quite right !'^ I was not a little amused when I found 
 the good woman thought me qualified for Bedlam. 
 It was a proof also how little this retired valley is 
 visited by thehuntersof the picturesque. No doubt 
 the natives thought all my brother lakers as mad as 
 myself at one period : — but use reconciles every 
 thing: — and now, perhaps, no one here thinks the 
 strangers shew any want of intellect— unless it be 
 the innkeepers at their continuing to submit to their 
 extravagant charges. 
 
 My worthy hostess, however, gave me a singular 
 proof of her simplicity and ignorance of the world 
 —•rare qualities in a person of her profession — When 
 my bill came to be settled — she was not for charging 
 for tea, because, she said, I ate next to nothing. 
 
 The Vale ofEsk. 
 
 In the Vale of Esk is the interesting water-fall 
 called Birker Force, that lies apartj and from the 
 chasm presents a fine mountain view of Scawfell. 
 At the head of the vale arc visible remains of a 
 Roman fortress. Birker-force, in Eskdale, is seen on 
 the left out of the road from Ambleside to Wast 
 Water pouring down the side of the hill. In a rainy- 
 season the torrent is immense. On the same side of 
 the hill, but lower down the valley, is Stanley Gill. 
 About sixteen miles from Ambleside, on the road to 
 Wastdale, the ancient building, called Dale Garth 
 Hall, may be seen. The water-fall, part of Stanley 
 Gill, is more than half a mile on the left. The 
 chasm here is awfully sublimej the rocks rise almost 
 perpendicularly over their bases, from the rough 
 sides of which trees impend in their richest wildness. 
 
 The traveller may now descend into Langdale. 
 From the New Inn at Coniston Water head, to Am- 
 bleside, by Borwick ground, the distance is eight 
 miles. The road to both places, not half a mile from 
 the inn, passes Water-head House, the seat of Mi-
 
 $8 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 chad Knott, Esq. This house, much enlarged, is a 
 splendid addition to the mountain. 
 
 A late visitor of Lan^dale observes, ** I know not 
 how I can better describe this beautiful vallev, than 
 by my father's simile. " It puts me in mind," said 
 he, as we ascended the road by Tail End, ** of a 
 wash-hand basin, with a little drop of water in the 
 bottom." " Yes," said my uncle, «* and to com- 
 plete the comparison, the island may look like a 
 piece of soap, which some careless person has left 
 in the water." To me, Tom, it seemed like a little 
 vale where nature has poured all her sweets. The 
 valley is small. A still lake sleeps in the bottom — 
 at least it slept when we were there— a circle of ma- 
 jestic hills environ it on every side; yet all finely 
 varied in their shapes. A tract of level ground, 
 under the shelter of a towering hill, is brightened by 
 a lovelv village, with its neat white church. And 
 you will agree with me that there is nothing so de- 
 lightful as a neat village church. 
 
 On ascending the hill above Tail-end, I turned 
 round to take perhaps a last farewell of one of the 
 sweetest vales under heaven. " Happy tenants of 
 this happy vale," exclaimed my sister, " you little 
 know the blessings you enjoy. Nature has heaped 
 her richest beauties around you. Every returning 
 day presents you a picture which all the pencils 
 in the world cannot imitate. Surely a scene like 
 this must impress the heart with feelings of devo- 
 tion, and prompt the readv song of praise to Him 
 ■who thus bounteously prepares for the highest gra- 
 tification of his creatures." ** 1 agree with you 
 there," said mv uncle; " I have long held it as a 
 favourite opinion, that the Deity has designed us 
 for much of what is called the pleasures of sense. 
 Had it not been so, whv have we all this diversity 
 of colours in nature? One would have done for 
 use — the rest are given for pleasure. One sound 
 might have served all the business of life; but 
 "'' nre presented with an almost infinite variety of
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, £xr. ?9 
 
 sounds all agreeable in their different tones — these 
 are intended for pleasure. The beautiful variety in 
 the herbs and flowers is for our ainusemcnt. Flvery 
 species of tree has a different hue, because these 
 hues are agreeable. The earth is green, the rocks 
 are grey, and the sky is blue for our pleasure. Even 
 these are again vaiied to i)Iease us — the morning is 
 spangled with a thousand dyes, the mid-day sky is 
 speckled wiih rlouds, the evening tinged with gold 
 and crimson, and the silent night gemmed with liv- 
 ing lustre to please us. The charming sensation of 
 heat, the softness of the grass we tread, and the 
 sweetness of the air we breathe, are all intended to 
 give us pleasure." And turning to my sister with a 
 smile, " nor is ' the human face divine' less an ob- 
 ject of pleasure. The unequalled lustre of the spark- 
 ling eye, the soft vermilion of the cheek and lip, 
 the snowy whiteness of the teeth, the shadowy brown 
 of those waving ringlets which adorn the face on 
 either side, are all designed for the pleasure of man." 
 — ** But,'' replied my sister, with a blush, '• there 
 are persons who imagine they are pleasing our boun- 
 teous Creator, by stripping the female face of those 
 waving ringlets you so much admire — and call it re- 
 ligion !'' *' And there are some persons," savs my 
 father, "who imagine they please themselves," look- 
 ing at my sister's bonnet, *' by concealing their 
 faces altogether under a stack of straw — and call it 
 fashion !'' 
 
 This conversation was interrupted bv our arriving 
 at High Closp, where we had so delightful a view of 
 Loughrigg Tarn, with the soft meadow and wood- 
 land surrounding it ; over which vv^e caught a glimpse 
 of Windermere, and the hitjb grounds about Trout- 
 beck and Orrcst Head. Had the horse been as food 
 of rural scenery as I was, we should have gone no 
 farther. But the cart kept moving on, and we pre- 
 sently found ourselves descending towards Langdale. 
 Elterwater, with its morass, lay at our feet, and 
 
 E
 
 30 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 Langdale pikes, so often an object of beauty, now 
 stood in all their majesty close to us. 
 
 We passed a few sdaggling farm-houses, at Elter- 
 water head, and began to ascend, by the slate quar- 
 ries, to Little T.angdale. We now found ourselves 
 in a country of comparative barrenness. Huge mis- 
 shapen bills presented themselves on every side. 
 The roads narrow and extremely rugged, steep and 
 difficult of ascent. 
 
 Little Lan^dale is constructed like a deep dish, 
 with a small dirty tarn in the middle. This vale is 
 situated in close contiguity to some of the highest 
 hills in the kingdom, in consequence of which it is 
 remarkably subject to rain. My uncle asked an old 
 man who was looking after some sheep on the hill, 
 " If the rain in these parts was not very detrimental 
 to the crops?" *« Wya," replied he, *• it rather 
 plagues us sometimes; but we talk of gitting a lid 
 mead, an' then wee's be better off," *' I think, in- 
 deed,'' said my father, ** you almost might get a lid 
 for it." 
 
 Under a lofty hill to the east side of Little Lang- 
 dale, we called at a farm house belonging to an old 
 *' statesman," as they term them here, called Wil- 
 liam Tyson. The good old hospitable farmer set 
 before us new milk, home-brewed beer, butter, bread 
 and cheese, and kindly invited us to*' helpoursells." 
 My uncle entered into conversation with him re- 
 specting the Lake Mountains. He appeared to have 
 read nothing but the book of nature. He was well 
 acquainted with the arrangement of the hills, and 
 gave us a better idea of the country, my uncle ob- 
 served, than could be obtained from the best writ- 
 ten work extant. The following is the substance of 
 the old man's remarks. 
 
 ** I cannot compare the lake mountains," said Wil- 
 liam Tyson, *' to nothing so natural as a cart wheel 
 with nine spokes ; only they are some of them 
 crooked. 1 call the hills Bowfell, Scawfell, and the 
 Pikes, the nave of the wheel, and the long ridges 
 Avhich run from them, I call the spokes. I Vill be-
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, Ac. 31 
 
 gin on the east side} and I will mark them on this 
 flag with this piece of burnt wood. Those three 
 dots altogether are Bowfell, Scawfell, and the Pikes ; 
 now, that spoke is Langdalc pikes, and the range of 
 hills which run behind Grasmere, Rydalc, Amble- 
 side, Bowness, and down to Cartmelfell. — The next 
 spoke, look you, is yon which you see across the 
 valley ; it runs down by Coniston Old Man, and 
 divides Torver from Seathwaite. — The third takes 
 in Hard Knot and Wrynose, and divides Seathwaite 
 from Eskdale. — The fourth, shoots away to Raven- 
 glass, and divides Eskdale from Miterdale. — The 
 fifth takes in the Screes, and divides Miterdale from 
 Wasdale. — The sixth is a very thick knotty spoke, and 
 takes in Yewbarrow, Seatallan, and the Pillar, and 
 divides Wasdale from Ennerdale. — The seventh takes 
 in High Stile and Red Pike, and divides Ennerdale 
 from Buttermere. — The eighth takes in Cawsey Pike 
 Grasmoor, Whiteside, and Grisdale Pike, and divides 
 Buttermere from Borrowdale and Keswick vale. — 
 The ninth, is a smaller spoke, and divides Borrow- 
 dale from Leaths-water. — I'hese spokes or branches 
 of hills, are many of them again divided into less 
 branches, with valleys between them." 
 
 " This,'' observed my uncle, " is very like the 
 account given by Mr. Wordsworth, in his late pub- 
 lication. Have you ever seen that book r" *' No," 
 replied the old man, " I see no books. But if we 
 were on Bowfell, I could let you see down all these 
 valleys in a two hours' walk ; though I am so plagued 
 with the rheumatism now, I don't think I could get 
 up so high.'' •* Are we to suppose," said my uncle, 
 '* that Mr. Wordsworth has borrowed this idea from 
 the old dalelander, and then published it as his own ?" 
 ** Oh, no," said my father, *• Mr. Wordsworth will 
 call it a coincidence of ideas!" 
 
 After our refreshment in Little Langdalo, we pro- 
 ceeded to Langdale Head, along a n ad of nature's 
 own making, and a rough job she had made of it. 
 Though tlie jolting of the road was almost insup- 
 E 2
 
 32 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 portable, the view of Blea Tarn, with Langdalc 
 Vikes beyond it, was exquisite. We rested awhile 
 to feast on the sublime scene, before we descended 
 the steep and rugc^ed road into Langdale Head. This 
 head of the vale was the wildest spot I had yet seen. 
 Surrounded on every side but one by hills, whose 
 summits appeared to hold communion with the skies, 
 we saw no possible egress. A few lonely farm houses 
 invited us to seek refresh n;ient, which was now be- 
 come necessary. 'I'he mistress of the house where 
 we alicjhted, was one of those interesting females 
 whose countenances are indexes to every thing gene- 
 rous. She presented us M'ith bread and butter, and 
 new milk. While we feasted on this delicious mx)un- 
 tain fare, she informed us that there was no road in- 
 to Boirowdale, excepting over a place called the 
 Stake, which was so steep that we could only pass it 
 on foot, and even that with difficulty, as it was nearly 
 two thousand feet high. Besides, she said, the day 
 was far advanced, and there was not another house 
 within ten miles. And in conclusion pressed us 
 very hard to stay all night in her cotta^e ; where, 
 though the fare and accommodations might be home- 
 ly, the meat was wholesome, and the beds clean. 
 My uncle felt himself so fatigued with riding over 
 the hill from Langdale, that his own limbs and the 
 good Avoman's persuasion soon induced him to ac- 
 cept her hospitable offer. 
 
 When we had a little recovered our fatigue, we 
 rambled do'vn the vale to admire the beauty and sub- 
 limity of this astonishing place. As we wandered 
 , along the margin of the river we fell in with a rather 
 intelligent rustic, who was fishing with considerable 
 success. My sister was exceedingly delighted with 
 the sport, and solicited the favour of the rod to try 
 her hand ; and either by skill or chance drew a trout 
 to the -shore. She was so much elated with her suc- 
 cess, that she would not quickly have restored the 
 rod to its owner, had not a shower compelled us to 
 seek shelter in the peasants cottage, which luckily 
 hap{>€ned to be near. He kindly invited us to take
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, AC. 53 
 
 a little refreshment, as he said, "in a free way ;" and 
 we would not hur.t the poor man's pride by a refusal. 
 We must be fatigued with walking, he observed, 
 ** For these quality sort of folk can bide naught." 
 
 When we regained the firm house at Langdale 
 Head, the farmer and his servants were coming in 
 from the mowing field. This may appear strange 
 when you recollect it is now the middle of August. 
 It seemed curious to me. When ^ve left Preston, 
 they had nearly finished their corn harvest ; and here 
 at a distance of only sixty miles, they are commenc- 
 ing their hay harvest. 
 
 The farmer gave us a hearty welcome to his " hum- 
 ble cot and hamely fare;'' he entered warmly into 
 conversation respecting sheep farms. 
 
 While my father, my uncle, and the farmer were 
 thus employed, I and my sister, the farmer's daughter, 
 (a very pretty girl by the bye,) the farmer's son, and 
 a young person or two beside, amused ourselves by 
 telling stories behind the long table. The farmer's 
 son, was an excellent hand; and told them with quite 
 a dramatic effect. This manner of spending the 
 evening appeared rather novel to me, but from what 
 I can learn it is the usual plan in this country. 
 When the labour of the day is over they retire to the 
 fire, in winter ; and behind the long table, or eLe to 
 the stone at the door, in summer. 
 
 S EAT H WATTE 
 
 Is a village consisting of a few liouscs in a seclud- 
 ed valley, not generally known, but greatly admired 
 by those who do know it : it may be approached bv 
 Broughton, or by passing the high mountain called 
 Walna Scar; or by Shepherd's Bridge to Little 
 Langdale, and over Wrynose to Cockley Beck, 
 which is the highest house in Seathvvaite. Seath- 
 waite is also nearly ten miles from Keswick, and so 
 deeply sunk between the mountains, that during the 
 depth of -winter the inhabitants here never see the 
 sun ; and which even in summer seems to shine upon 
 them with reluctance. From an opening on the left 
 i3
 
 34 EXCURSIONS TO TTIE 
 
 is a view of Eagle Crag. Seathwaite stands at the 
 foot of the mountain which ccn;ains the wad, or 
 black-lead mines. In Seatlnvaite untutored nature 
 seems to have held her doir.inion with a more abso- 
 lute sway than in any other dale in the country ; ex- 
 otics have been sparingly introduced, and though 
 there is rather a want than a redundancy of wood, 
 an artist may liiink the valley is better without it. 
 About a mile and a half to the northward is Ross- 
 thwaite, a lonely village shadowed by impending 
 mountains, and almost secluded from the surround- 
 ing country, especially during the winter months. 
 Here the road divides; one branch leading to the 
 "VVad-mines and Ravenglass, the other on the left to 
 Hav/kshead. 
 
 The Pikes are the hi-ihe-.t part of that vast mass 
 of mountain, reaching from Seathwaite in Borrow- 
 da!e, to Wast-water ; by some, the whole of this 
 extended mass, with all its various summits, is called 
 Scawfell; this, however, is the name given to the 
 part south of Mickle door, by the Wastdale shep- 
 herds; and the highest part on the north east, they 
 call the Pikes. But the Borrowdale shepherds cafl 
 this elevated point, the High Man, or Scawfell, to 
 distinguish it from other heaps of stones nearer Bor- 
 rowdale. Westward from the High Man, lies Scaw- 
 fell, which, Janus-like, being double-faced, here pre- 
 sents his roughly-marked front, Eskdale and Wast- 
 dale enjoy his smooth and shining side, Scawfell 
 obscures part of the Screes and Wast-water. This 
 aspiring station commannsa more sublime, and per- 
 haps not less elegantly varied range of mountains, 
 dales, and sea-views, than either Skiddaw or Hel- 
 vellyn. The summit of Scawfell in a straight line, 
 is estim.ated at about twelve hundred yards distant 
 from the Higher Pike; but the line of travel from 
 one summit to the other, is over a painfully rugged 
 road, in length cot less than two miles. 
 
 Mr. Hutchinson observed growing on Scawfell 
 that species of moss which is the food of red deer.
 
 kliles. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 
 3 
 
 \ 
 
 3| 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 n 
 
 5i 
 
 21 
 
 n 
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 33 
 
 and during the last century one of these was chased 
 into VVastwater, and there drowned. 
 EXCURSION V. 
 
 From Conision IVater-heud to Hawk's-head, thence htj the 
 Grove round Esthvcaitc ffater 
 
 To Hawk's-liead 
 
 Flstlnvaite Water 
 
 The Grove 
 
 Nearer Sawrey, by the foot of the Lake 
 
 Ilawk's-liead . . . _ 
 
 Esthwaite Water is about two miles in length and 
 half a mile across; it is encompassed hy an excel- 
 lent carriage road, on the right of which we pass by 
 (irove, the seat of Thomas Beck, Esq. ; on the left 
 is Esthwaite Hall, a farm-house; a little beyond 
 which a branch from the Ulverston road leads ei- 
 ther to the ferry-house, or round Esthwaite water. 
 The road from Elverston to Penny Bridge is plea- 
 sant. 
 
 Esthwaite- Water is intersected by a peninsula pro- 
 jecting into it from each side. These are fringed 
 with trees and cultivated. Along the margin of the 
 lake rise gentle hills, with plantations and pastures 
 alternately spreading beneath white farms, distri- 
 buted upon the slopes above. This charming sheet 
 of water is surrounded by a good carriage road, 
 and over the outlet, by which it discharges itself is a 
 good stone bridge, A little islet, near the head of 
 this water, is said to have floated about formerly ac- 
 cording as the wind blew. It has certainly been 
 stationary many years, and is at present covered with 
 shrubs. No char is found here, though this water is 
 connected with VVindermere, but perch, pike, trout, 
 ykc. abound. Belham tarn is a little lake two miles 
 north east of Hawkshead, going by Colt house: this 
 tarn is connected with VVindermere by a stream, 
 passing by Low Wray. From Hawkshead the sce- 
 nery improves, and is beautifully variegated all the 
 way to Ambleside; but from Penny Bridge the 
 country is somewhat dreary. From Sawrey to
 
 56 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 Hawkshead the irregular fis;ure of the lake, its prettv 
 inclosures, woods, and buildings, with the pikes of 
 Langdale in the distance, display many delicious 
 Sylvan pictuics. 
 
 Hawkshead is a small town situated in the vale 
 near the lake of Esthwaite, and is piotected from 
 bleak winds by the overhanging fells of Coniston. 
 Being the principal town of Fuiness, it is the centre 
 where all business is transacted. Here is no staj:»!e 
 manufactory, but a very considerable market on 
 Mondays. The church here was formerly under 
 Dalton ; but made parochial by Edward Sandys, 
 Archbishop of York, about 1580. At a sliort dis- 
 tance from Hawkshead, are the remains of a house 
 where the representative of the Abbot of Furncss 
 resided. The Court room over the gateway, is that 
 in which the bailiff' managed the Abbot's temporal 
 concerns. 
 
 From Hawkshead, to the ferry-house on Winder- 
 mere, the road passes over hilly grounds through the 
 village of Sawrey ; the sight of Windermcie from 
 this road is very fine all the way down the hill 
 to the flat. Bellemont was built by the Rev. Regi- 
 nald Biaithwaite, whose son, the Rev.Gawen Braith- 
 waite sold it to — — Ward, Esq. of Liverpool. 
 Field- head is the residence of James Lockhart, Esq- 
 Keen Ground is the seat of John Rigby, Esq. 
 EXCURSION \T. 
 From Ambleside to Keswick, 
 
 Rydal 
 
 ^Vhite Moss Slate Quarry 
 
 Town End 
 
 Holliu Grove 
 
 Swan Inn 
 
 Turnpike Gate 
 
 Dunmail Raise 
 
 Horses Head 
 
 St. John's Vale 
 
 Smeathwaite Bridge 
 
 Causey Foot 
 
 Summit of Castlerigg 
 
 Keswick 
 
 Miles. Miles. 
 
 n 
 
 H 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 i 
 
 4 
 
 i 
 
 4=1 
 
 i 
 
 5 
 
 H 
 
 6i 
 
 li 
 
 H 
 
 -I 
 
 10 
 
 U 
 
 HI 
 
 '2i 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 iAi 
 
 H 
 
 10
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 37 
 
 Nothing can exceed the interest of the ride from 
 Ambleside to Keswick. From the bridge of Gras- 
 mere the eye ranges with rapture over its secluded 
 valley. At the foot of Helm -crag an immense 
 broken pile, which, like the ruin of some great citadel, 
 guards the north-east side of the valley ; the road 
 winds through the romantic vales of Legberthwaite 
 and St. John. 
 
 Ambleside is a small town, occupying a singularly 
 beautiful and romantic situation at the head of 
 Windermere: it contains a handsome church, 
 erected in the modern Gothic style, a few years ago. 
 It is much resorted to in the summer season by those 
 who visit the lakes. This romantic village is thirty- 
 seven or thirty-nine miles from Lancaster, if the 
 Bowness road is taken. Ambleside and Keswick are 
 the places principally from which the English lakes, 
 the mountains and valleys around them are visit- 
 ed. The inns and lodging-houses, at both places, 
 are proportionably numerous; though the popula- 
 tion at Keswick doubles that of Ambleside. The 
 Salutation Inn at Ambleside is spacious and airy ; 
 several post chaises and horses are kept, besides sad- 
 dle horses and carts. The White Lion is the second 
 inn, and there are several public houses where lodg- 
 ings may be had; but a want of more accommoda- 
 tion during the travelling season, has been com- 
 plained of at both places. At Low Wood, a mile 
 and a half from Ambleside, on the Kendal road, 
 there is a pleasant and commodious inn, chaise and 
 horses. 
 
 Stock Gill rises on the side of Scawdale Fell, but 
 the finest part of it is between the woollen mill and 
 Stock Gill force, a distance of about three quarters 
 of a mile. The margin of this Gill is sometimes 
 low, sometimes swelling ; but oftener in steep and 
 grassy banks, or bold projecting rocks, rising to a 
 vast height. The pike of Wansfell is occasionally 
 seen through the vista, on looking up the river, and 
 the Langdale pikes in looking down it. The rivulet
 
 33 EXCURSIOMS TO THE 
 
 of Stock Gill passes throus^h Ambleside, and forms 
 the boundary or line of separation between the 
 parishes of Bownessand Grasmere. 
 
 Woundale Raise, is a remarkable heap of stones in 
 this vicinity. Fi om Ambieside is a charminc; excur- 
 sion by Skelwith fold and Colwith force up little 
 Langdale, Blea Tarn, and down Great Langdale. 
 Theie are delightful walks in that part of Gras- 
 mere, called Easedale; and the vale is advantage- 
 ously seen from Butterlip How, At the mile stone, 
 the sixth short of Keswick, there is a fine view of 
 Legberthwaite with Blencathara, commonly called 
 Saddleback. Helvellyn may be ascended from Dun- 
 mail Raise, by a foot traveller or from the inn at 
 Wythurn. 'I'he traveller, who may thus have de- 
 viated, may rejoin the main road upon Shoulthwaite 
 Moss, about tour miles from Keswick. Soon after 
 leaving Ambleside we pass Rydal Hall on our right, 
 and immediately after on our left, ascending the rug- 
 ged side of a rocky mountain, Rydalwater presents 
 itself to our view. This lake is about a mile in 
 length, and is spotted Mith two small islands. The 
 water is apparently shallow, and the lake is inferior 
 to that of Grasmere in point of beauty. A few an- 
 cient trees decorate its banks on one side, and, on 
 the other some hoary rocks, with woods vegetating 
 from their fissures, have a picturesque cfliect. This 
 Jake, as well as that of Grasmere, empties itself in- 
 to the river Rothay, ^vhich, after a course of two 
 miles loses its waters in \\indermere. 
 
 Rydal Hall is situated on a gentle eminence, at the 
 junction of two valleys, and is the seat of Sir Daniel 
 Le Fleming, Bart. Behind this large ancient build- 
 ing, sheltered by tall onks, rises the rocky mountain 
 of Rydal Head, computed to be upwards of 3000 feet 
 in height. At R)dal Hall are two grand cascades, 
 one in a glen, a little above the house, to which a good 
 road has been opened. The water is said to rush 
 down about twenty-four feet in perpendicular height, 
 and to occasion a considerable concussion in its fall.
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 39 
 
 The other, the celebrated waterfall at Rydal, is 
 peculiarly beautiful, and is approached by a nar- 
 row glen till we come to a little thatched summer- 
 house, on the banks of the river. On one of its 
 window shutters is the date 16I7. On entering the 
 room here the view of the cascade bursts at once 
 upon the eye, and the effect for the moment is 
 electrical. The noise of the torrent, and the dark 
 shade of the overhanging and surrounding trees, 
 form a scene which excites a variety of sensations. 
 
 The first mention of this beautiful spot was made 
 by the elegant biographer of Mr. Gray. ** Nature," 
 ho observes, *' has here performed every thing in 
 little, that she usually executed upon a larger scale; 
 and,on that account, like a miniature painter, seems 
 to have finished every part of it in a studied man- 
 ner. Not a little fragment of rock thrown into the 
 basin, not a single stem of brushwood that starts 
 from its craggy sides, and the little central current 
 dashing down a cleft of the darkest coloured stone, 
 but produces an effect of light and shadow beautiful 
 beyond description. This little theatrical scene 
 might be painted as large as the original on a canvas 
 not bigger than those usually dropped in the Opera 
 House." 
 
 Another writer describing the scene says, ** the 
 water of a small bason, hollowed in a bed of stone, 
 and darkened by the impending foliage, is thrown 
 into a tremulous agitation by two little streams fall- 
 ing six or eight feet from the clefts of a small shelf 
 of rock. One of them is a broad ribband torrent, 
 fretting itself into a white foam ; the other a little 
 rippling stream, whose current disperses as it falls. 
 The fine marble slabs that form the sides of the 
 bason are carpeted by a thick brown moss ; and the 
 light, which is denied admittance through the trees, 
 is ushered in at the arch of a small wooden bridge 
 above the falls, and reflected from the face of the 
 ^vater." From Rydal we may return by a delightful
 
 40 EXCURSION TO THE , 
 
 way through coppices and verdant meadows to 
 Ambleside. 
 
 From Low Pike, in Rydal Park, the tourist who 
 loves mountainous prospects, may be highly grati- 
 fied. Besides Rvdal water he may view Grasmere, 
 "Windermere, BlencowTarn, Elterwater, Esihwaite, 
 and Coniston Water, the Isle of Walney, Pile of 
 Foudrev, Duddon, UJverston, Lancaster, and Mill- 
 thorp Sands; and, at an opening between two hills, 
 the hideous rocks in Borrowdale. A further walk of 
 about an hour will procure a view of Skiddaw, Hel- 
 vellyn, Ulswater, the Vale of St. John, and other 
 parts of Cumberland. After such views the follow 
 ing lines may be aptly introduced, 
 
 Descending now from ether's pure domain. 
 By fancy borne to range the nether plain ; 
 Behold all winning novelty display'd 
 Along the vale, the mountain, and the shade, 
 The scenes but late diminutive resume 
 Their native grandeur and their wonted bloom ; 
 The woods expand their umbrage o'er the deep, 
 And with ambitious aim ascend the steep ; 
 Stage above staG;e their vigorous arms invade. 
 The tallest cliffs, and wrap them in the shade : 
 Each in its own pre-eminence regains 
 The high dominion of the subject plains. 
 Smiling beneath ; such smiles the people wear, 
 Happy in some paternal monarch's care. 
 Rydal Mount is the seat of William Wordsworth, 
 Esq. the admired author of *• The Excursion, a 
 description of the scenery of the lakes in the north 
 of England,'' &c. &:c. Rydal water is connected with 
 Grasmere water, which is scarcely half a mile distant 
 from it. 
 
 The best view of Grasmere lake is from between 
 West's station and the water, as taken by Mr. Green ; 
 this presents the island, the church, and the village. 
 Helm Crag and Seat Sandal are the principal moun- 
 tains in the distance. " The grand features of 
 nature," says the same artist, *' when happily con-
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, inc. <■ 41 
 
 £:regateH, are grateful to the sentimental mind ; but 
 in serene seasons, when not a breath of air disturbs 
 the waters of the lakes, how beautiful the reflections 
 on its glossy bosom, particularly when the almost 
 motionless clouds hang upon the mountains, or the 
 receding objects are swimming in celestial azure. 
 Such is the scene which mav frequently be enjoyed 
 from the new room at the south end of Grasmere. 
 " The deep hush of the vale, the town 
 Chiming throueh mournful silence, and the lake 
 Reflecting all the heavens.'* 
 
 The church-vard shaded by pines and sycamores 
 is congenial with those who love silence and solitude. 
 Some charitable stranger has lately added the 
 mournful yew tree, sacred to such institutions. 
 
 Loughrigg Tarn, near Grasmere, is one of the 
 most beautiful miniatures of its kind. It has a 
 margin of green meadows, rocks, and rocky woods ; 
 reeds here, a few water lilies there. A little stream 
 issues from it ; but its feeding rills are so small as 
 scarcely to be visible. Five or six cottages are re- 
 flected from its bosom ; rocky and barren steeps rise 
 up above the hanging enclosures, and the solemn 
 pikes of Langdale overlook the ridge of land that 
 forms the northern boundary of this fertile domain. 
 Water fowl flock among the mountain tarns ; and 
 the lonely angler may often times be seen here. 
 
 There sometimes does a leaping fish 
 Send through the tarn a lonely cheer ; 
 The crags repeat the raven's croak 
 In symphony austere: 
 Thither the rainbow comes, the cloud. 
 And mists that spread the flying shroud. 
 Leaving Grasmere on our left we proceed along 
 the road till we arrive at Dunmail Raise; where the 
 counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland divide 
 is scarcely seven miles from Ambleside. Here lie 
 the historic stones that perpetuate the name and fall 
 of the last king of Cumberland, defeated there by
 
 42 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 the Saxon monarch Edmund, who put out the eyes 
 of the two sons of his adversary, and for his con- 
 federating with Leolin, king of Wales, first wasted 
 his kingdom, and then gave it to Malcolm, king of 
 Scots, who held it in fee of Edmund, about the years 
 944, or 945. The stones are a heap that have the 
 appearance of a earn or barrow. The wall that di- 
 vides the counties is built over them, which proves 
 their priority of time in that form. 
 
 Dr. Burn calls the river, from Dunmail Raise to 
 Grasmere Lake, Raisbeck; but from that lake to 
 Windermere he names it Rothay, from Dunmail 
 Raise on our right South-eastward. 
 
 Helvellyn. 
 
 Eastward of the chasm of Borrowdale and partly 
 in Westmoreland, is the "mighty Helvellyn." Its 
 height is three thousand and fifty five feet above the 
 level of the sea. Huge and innumerable fragments 
 of rock bang pendant from its sides, as if ready to fall 
 upon, and overwhelm, the curious traveller. Its sum- 
 mit is extremely difficult of access, and its descent 
 difficult, in consequence of loose stones, hard dry 
 ground, and small rocks. The prospect from its sum- 
 mit is extremely extensive— Cross Fell, and Ingle- 
 borough, in Yorkshire, are distinctly visible. The 
 Author of " A Fortnight's Ramble," visited Helvel- 
 lyn from Ambleside. " We, said he," began our 
 course by Rydal Hall, guided by Robin Partridge; 
 and, as we surmounted the first hills, we took advan- 
 tage of the morning to exert ourselves. We passed 
 the long chain till we came to Fairfield, which com- 
 poses that grand crescent, which every one looks up 
 to with such respeet, upon Windermere. In the rear 
 is Flinty Grove, in Deepdale Head, where we look 
 down into the entrance of Patterdale, and over the 
 champaign part of Westmoreland. Angle Tarn, 
 famous for fish, cuts the centre of the mountain be- 
 fore us. At one time we saw seven pieces of water; 
 and, as the tide was coming in upon the Lancaster
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 43 
 
 sands, we had many salt-water lakes which were ter- 
 minated by the western sea, an expanse of blue, far 
 as the eye could reach. At a quarter past seven, after 
 a tight tug, we reached a mountain that would make 
 a fine race course, and then steeply descended to a 
 Tarn, half a mile below, and had a bird's-eye view 
 of Grasmere and Helm Crag, which has a ferrugi- 
 nous appearance. The water of the Tarn, just men- 
 tioned, is hid in three mountains, at the head of 
 which is Seat Sandal. 
 
 " We then clambered upon the heap of stones ca/ZeJ 
 Dolly Wa ergon Pike. At half-past nine we reached 
 Hclvellyii^Man, the highest point of this famous 
 mountain. Still mountains seemed towering above 
 hills, as if they were parents of numerous families, 
 and Helvellyn in the centre of them. Old Man is 
 just in sight. Place Fell cuts off a branch of Ul- 
 verston. Just under the ground called Old Church, 
 is Rbd Tarn, shaped like a Bury pear. After par- 
 taking of a luxurious banquet, at a spring about 
 two hundred yards below Helvellyn Man, the party 
 came to a rise which is only seen from the high road, 
 and often supposed to be the top of the mountain. 
 Here they opened upon the peaceful view of VVyth- 
 burn, beautiful though unadorned with trees." 
 
 The writer of the " Fortnight's Ramble" here ob- 
 serves, he took an opportunity of resting upon a 
 snug sheep-birth, almost an asylum, as they were 
 obliged to proceed with the utmost caution, the 
 ground was so hard and steep, and although he was 
 master of his resolution, as he had only one arm to 
 depend on, he would not whilst descending, have 
 looked at any thing but his feet for all the prospects 
 in the universe. 
 
 In the spring of 1805, a young gentleman of ta- 
 lents, and of a most amiable disposition, trusting 
 too much to his own knowledge, lost his way, and 
 perished beneath ** the dark brow of thcmighty 
 Helvellyn,'' endeavouring to crossover from Gras- 
 mere, and his remains were not discovered till 
 F 2
 
 44 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 three months afterwards, when they were found 
 guarded by a faithful female terrier, his constant at- 
 tendant, during bis rambles through the wilds of 
 Cumberland and VV estmoreland. This affecting in- 
 cident gave birth to an exquisite poem by Mr. 
 Walter Scott, in which, apostrophizing ihe guar- 
 dian dog, he asks, 
 
 ** How.long didst thou think that his silence was 
 slumber? 
 When the wind wav'd his garment how oft didst 
 thou start ? 
 How many long days and loBg nights didst thou 
 number. 
 Ere he faded before thee, the friend of thy heart?" 
 
 Mr. Wordsworth, in his poem on" Fidelitj//' thus 
 rehtes a part of this story : — 
 
 ** But hear a wonder, for whose sake 
 
 This lamentable tale I tell, 
 A lasting monument of words, 
 
 This wonder merits well. 
 The dog, which still was hovering nigh, 
 Repeating the same timid cry. 
 This dog had been through three months' 
 
 space, 
 A dweller in that savage place. 
 Yes, proof was plain, that since that day 
 On which the traveller thus had died, 
 The dog had watch'd about the spot, 
 
 Or by his master's side. 
 How nourished here, through such long time, 
 He knows who gave that love sublime. 
 And gave that strength of feeling great, 
 
 Above all human estimate." 
 
 The impressive grandeur of the echoes amongst 
 the rocks and caverns here have often-been remark- 
 ed : but this effect is almost equalled by the rever- 
 berations of any loud sound, suddenly emitted in 
 the wilds of these romantic eminences. •• It is
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 45 
 
 utterly impossible for a lively imagination, unused 
 to the delusion, to experience it without a momen- 
 tary belief that he is surrounded by the unseen spi- 
 rits of the mountains, reproving his intrusion into 
 their sacred recesses." The universal uproar which 
 a sudden burst of laughter produces in the bosom' of 
 these precipices, has been beautifully expressed by 
 Mr. Wordsworth, in his Lyrical Ballads: — 
 
 *• 'Twas that delightful season when the broom. 
 
 Full flower'd and visible on every steep 
 
 Along the copses runs in veins of gold: 
 
 Our pathway led us on to Rotha's banks. 
 
 And when we came in front of that tall rock. 
 
 Which looks towards the east, I then stopp'd short. 
 
 And trac'd the lofty barrier with my eye. 
 
 From base to summit. Such delight I found 
 
 To note in shrub and tree, in stone and flower. 
 
 The intermixture of delicious hues 
 
 Along so vast a surface all at once. 
 
 In one impression, by connecting force 
 
 Of their own beauty, imag'd in the heart. 
 
 ■ When I had gaz'd perhaps two minutes space, 
 
 Joanna, looking in my eyes, beheld 
 
 That ravishment of mine, and laugh'd aloud : 
 
 The rock, like something starting from a sleep. 
 
 Took up the lady's voice, and laug;h'd again. 
 
 That * ancient woman,' seated on Helm Crag, 
 
 Was ready with her cavern, Hammar Scar, 
 
 And the tall steep of Silver-how sent forth 
 
 A noise of laughter ; Southern Loughrigg heard. 
 
 And Fawjield answer'd, with a mountain tone : 
 
 Mehellyn far into the clear blue sky 
 
 Carried the lady's voice j Old Skiddaw blew 
 
 Her speaking trumpet;— back out of the clouds 
 
 Of Glamarara, southward, came the voice ; 
 
 And Kirkstojie toss'd it from his misty head. 
 
 Now whether (said 1 to my cordial friend. 
 
 Who, in the hey-day of astonishment, 
 
 Smil'd in my face), this were, in simple truth, 
 
 F 3
 
 46 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 A woik accomplish'd by the brotherhood 
 Of ancient mountains, or ray ear was touch'd 
 With dreams, and visionary impulses. 
 Is not for me to tell ; but sure 1 am 
 Tbat there was a loud uproar in the hills. 
 And while we both were listening, to my side 
 The fair Joanna drew, as if she wish'd 
 lo shelter from some object of her fear.'' 
 
 Thsit * ancient wo7nan' on Helm Crag, refers to 
 the striking resemblance seen on that mountain of an 
 old woman cowering down from Grasmere. 
 
 Leaving the majestic Helvellyn on our right, we 
 pass VVylhburn to Leathes Water. 
 
 Leathes Water. 
 
 This lake, which is sometimes called Thirlmere, 
 is a narrow irregular sheet, about four miles in 
 length, but in no part more than a mile broad. Nu- 
 merous little bays enter into it j the eastern side of 
 which is skirted by the immense base of Helvellyn^ 
 and fed by numerous torrents, that precipitate them- 
 selves down the sides of that mountain, and others 
 that surround and cast a deep bro\yn shade over 
 the surface of Leathes >Vater. This is distinguish- 
 ed from all the lakes of Cumberland and Westmor- 
 land by a projection in its centre from each side, 
 where the shores nearly unite, and render the pas- 
 sage extremely narrow and rapid, but not very deep. 
 Over this part is an Alpine bridge, of three arches, 
 formed oi a few strong oaken planks, with a hand- 
 rail on each side, for further security. The ap- 
 proach to this bridge is over a rude causeway of 
 rough stones, upon which the arches are fixed. At 
 the west end of the lake there is a little promontory, 
 upon which stands a neat manor-house, shrouded 
 with trees. On the back-ground, the broad gloomy 
 ridges of Saddleback and Threlkeld Fells appear. 
 The beauties of this lake are seen to most advantage 
 from a road passable to horsemen, or persons on 
 foot, which runs along the shore for nearly three
 
 LAKES OF CLMBERL.\ND,&C. 47 
 
 miles, though ii is sometimes excluded by interven- 
 ing rocks ; yet almost its whole length is com- 
 pletely overhung by part of the stupendous Fells of 
 i5orro\vdale. The left side of the road is strewed 
 with huge fragments of rock, loosened and brought 
 down from the mountains by repeated storms. 
 
 Clark's Leap is a rock, so called from a person 
 of that name who drowned himself, being instigated 
 so to do by his wife advising him to it, and of whom 
 he was jealous. From an eminence on the left of 
 the road, at the sixth mile-stone, Lealheswater is 
 seen to great advantage, and also from another be- 
 hind Dale Head House. From Leathes Water, pur- 
 suing the road to Keswick, we pass St. John's Vale, 
 on our right, and arriving at Castlerigg, observe the 
 hill called Druid's Temple on our right, and enter 
 the Vale of Keswick. 
 
 The Vale of Keswick. 
 
 This has been aptly called " the head quarters of 
 Tourists." The best views of Keswick Lake are 
 from Crow Parkj Friers Crag; the Stable Field 
 close by; the Vicarage; and by taking the circuit 
 of the lake, more distant views, and perhaps full as 
 interesting, are from the side of Latrigg ; from 
 Ormath Water and Applethwaite; and thence along 
 the road at the foot of Skiddaw, towards Bassen- 
 thwaite, for about a quarter of a mile. From the 
 Castle Hill there are five bird's-eye views ; and from 
 Ashness, on the road to VVattenlath, and following the 
 stream there downwards to the Cataract of Lowdore. 
 There are good views along the western side of 
 Basenthwaite Lake, and from Armathwaite at its 
 foot, though the eastern side, on the high ruad, is 
 not the most inviting. Those persons who come 
 from Carlisle, and approach by way of Ireby, may 
 have from the top of Bassenthwaite Hawsemach, the 
 most striking view of the Plain of, and Lake of, 
 Bassenthwaite, flanked by Skiddaw and terminated 
 by Wallowcrag, on the south-east of Derwent Lake,
 
 48 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 with an extensive view of Solway Frith, and the 
 Scotch Mountains. Those who take the circuit of 
 Derwent Lake, may also include Borrowdale, go- 
 ing as far as the Bowder Stone or Rossthwaite ; Bor- 
 rowdale is also conveniently seen on theway to VVast- 
 dale; or to Buttermere, by SeatoUer and Honiston 
 Crag, or over the stile to Langdale and Ambleside. 
 Buttermere may be approached ashorter way, through 
 Newlands, hut "the best way is from Scale Hill. The 
 mountains of this vale are nowhere so impressive, 
 as from the bosom of Crummock Lake ; Scale Force 
 is a fine waterfall. 
 
 EXCURSION VIL 
 From Keswick to Saddleback. 
 
 Greta Bank Bridge . . I 
 
 Greta Bank . . . | 1 
 
 Brundholm . . . 1^ 2k 
 
 Over the wooden bridge by Derwent fold to 
 
 the common at High Row end . 1 3i 
 
 Circuitous Walk on High Row Fell to Low 
 
 Fell ; thence by Priestraan to Linthwaite 
 
 Pike . . . . 
 
 Foot of Scales Tarn 
 Atkinson's Man by Sharpe Edge 
 Linthwaite Pike 
 Back to Keswick 
 
 Saddleback and Scales Ta»n. 
 
 The courtesy of Messrs. Calvert and Banks, in al- 
 lowing strangers a passage over Greta- Bank Bridge, 
 has furnished a new and highly-interesting foot- 
 way. This road goes to the brink of a precipice on 
 the left, rising above the Glenderatena, a short dis- 
 tance from the bridge. Here are two steep descents 
 to the river, — the first so rugged and narrow, as to 
 be somewhat dangerous : the best way is by Brund- 
 holm, an ancient farm-house on the right, and to 
 cross the river by a wooden bridge to Derwent Fold, 
 and through the fields to High End, west of a line 
 of farms leading toThrelkeld. The horse -road from
 
 LAKBS OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 49 
 
 Keswick to Saddleback, is on that of Penrith to 
 Threikeld Town head 5 an acute turn to the left, at 
 this place, leads to High Row, to a foot road. Hence 
 the way on the left is on the side of a wall : then on 
 the right by a delightful road cut by the shepherds 
 on the mountain, here called High Row Fell. To- 
 wards Scales Tarn, Mr. Green, and a companion, 
 descended steeply from Linthwaite I'ikc, and then 
 in an easterly direction to the Tarn, a beautiful cir- 
 cular piece of transparent water. Here they found 
 themselves engulfed in a basin of sleeps, having. 
 Tarn Crag on the north, the rocks falling from Sharp 
 Edge on the east, and on the west, the soft turf on 
 which they had made their downward progress. 
 Wishing to vary their line in returning, they crossed 
 the stream and commenced a steep ascent at the 
 footof Sharp Edge; but the passage gradually grew 
 narrower, and the declivity on each hand awfully 
 precipitous. From walking erect, they were reduced 
 to the necessity of bestriding the ridge, or of moving 
 on one of its sides with their hands, lying over the 
 top as a security against tumbling into the 'I'arn on 
 the left, or into a frightful gulley on the right, both 
 of immense depth. At length gaining better ground, 
 they had a retrospective view of Sharp Edge, the 
 narrowest ridge on Saddleback j in places, its top is 
 composed of loose stones and earth j and this expe- 
 dition to Sharp Edge "had more singularity than 
 safety to recommend it. 
 
 Mr. Hutchinson speaks of a party who visited 
 this Tarn on Saddleback some years before. **'l'hey 
 began their ascent on Scales Fell : having proceeded 
 about a mile, one of the party on looking round, 
 was so astonished at the different appearance of 
 objects in the valley so far beneath them, that he 
 declined proceeding. We had not gone much fur- 
 ther when another was taken ill and wished 10 lose 
 blood and return. I was almost ready to give up my 
 project, which I should have done with great leluc- 
 tancej but, after labouring another half hour, we
 
 60 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 gained the margin of an immense cavity, the bottom 
 of which formed a wide basin, and was filled with 
 water, that looked black, though smooth as glass, 
 and covered the space of many acres." 
 
 ScALF.s TARKis generally sunless, and when illumi- 
 nated ever so little, it is in the morning, and chiefly 
 through the aperture formed by the running waters 
 in the direction of Penrith. " Winding round, and 
 keeping the cavity on our right, we attained the 
 ridge, or summit of a rock, where we found a pas- 
 sage three or four yards broad; on the right, the 
 descent to the lake looked truly awful ; whilst the 
 steep rocks on the other side were lofty, and not to be 
 clambered by human steps." On this grassy bridge, 
 Ottley and Green commenced their " awful descent" 
 to the lake. Strangers should never explore difficult 
 places without a guide, particularly in unsettled 
 weather. *• We walked back (said they) by the side 
 next to the lake ; but to look down from thence 
 was so terrible, I could not indure it a moment. 
 We perceived from here that our companion, whom 
 we had left, was laid upon the ground ; I pressed the 
 guide to hasten to him, but he refused^ alleging 
 that a fog was rising and would make it very hazard- 
 ous for me to explore my way alone down the 
 mountain. In a short time we were enveloped in a 
 very dense vapour, so that we were obliged to keep 
 close to each other ; the sudden change was almost 
 incredible. It was with difBculty we regained the 
 passage or dry bridge, which we missed several 
 times, and one false step would have precipitated us 
 into the horrid abyss. The fog soon after dispers- 
 ed as suddenly as it came on, and left us under a 
 serene sky. 
 
 EXCURSION VIII. 
 
 From Keswick round Derwent Water. 
 
 Miles. Mi((» 
 
 Castleliead, left . . I 1 i 
 
 Stable hills, right . . \ h\ 1
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 
 
 First Barrow gate 
 
 Second Barrow gate 
 
 Barrow hall . . 
 
 Lowdore 
 
 Grange Bridge 
 
 Village of Grange 
 
 Manesty 
 
 How's End 
 
 Portinscale 
 
 Keswick 
 
 If the Bowder stone be visited the same will be twelve 
 miles. 
 
 
 61 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 1 
 
 li 
 
 4. 
 
 '* 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 i 
 
 2i 
 
 i 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 4| 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 6i 
 
 2 
 
 H 
 
 i| 
 
 10 
 
 The general Aquatic excursion on Derwent Water, 
 
 Walk from Keswick to the little hills to the 
 
 Strand where the boats are moored 
 Friar Crag 
 Lord's Island 
 Stable Hills 
 Broom hill 
 
 Barrow landing place 
 Floating Idand 
 Mouth of the river 
 St. Herbert's Island 
 Water-end Bay and a little walking 
 Derwent Isle 
 Strands Piers 
 Keswick ♦ 
 
 Milei. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 1 
 
 li 
 1§ 
 1| 
 2i 
 3^ 
 
 4i 
 
 51 
 
 61 
 
 7 
 
 H 
 
 Derwent water, or Keswick Lake, as it is fre- 
 quently called, from its vicinity to Keswick, is on an 
 irregular figure, somewhat approaching the oval, 
 about three miles in length and one and a half in 
 breadth. By several writers this has been supposed 
 the finest lake in the north of England; but the pre- 
 ference has lately been almost universally awarded 
 to Ulswater. Derwent water has peculiar charms 
 both from beauty and wildness. It seems to be 
 nearly of a round form, and the whole is seen at 
 one glance, expanding within an amphitheatre of 
 mountains, rocky but not vast : broken into many
 
 52 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 fantastic shapes, peaked, splintered, impending, and 
 sometimes pyramidal, opening by narrow valleys 
 to the view of rocks, that rise immediately beyond 
 and are asain overlooked by others. The precipices 
 seldom overhang the water: but are arranged at 
 some distance, and the shores swell with woody 
 eminences or sink into green pastoral margins. 
 Masses of wood also frequently appear among the 
 cliffs, feathering them to their summits; and a 
 • white cottage sometimes peeps out from their skirts. 
 The lake in return faithfully reflects the whole pic- 
 ture, and so even and brilliantly pellucid is its sur- 
 face, that it rather heightens than obscures the co- 
 lourinsr. Its mild bosom is spotted by four or five 
 small islands, of which those called Lord's and St. 
 Herbert's, have been well wooded; but another was 
 ** deformed by buildings, stuck over it like figures 
 upon a twelfth- cake." 
 
 Derwent Water affords abundant matter for ad- 
 miration, tiiough riot of so high a character as at- 
 tends Ulswater. The soft undulations of its shores, 
 the mingled wood and pasture that paint them, the 
 brilliant purity of the water; the fantastic wildness 
 of the rocks, and the magnificence of the theatre 
 they form, are circumstances, the view of which ex- 
 cites emotions of sweet and tranquil pleasure, soft- 
 ening the mind to tenderness rather than elevating 
 it to sublimity. The wildness, seclusion, and magi- 
 cal beauty oT this vale, seem indeed to render it the 
 very abode for Milton's * Comus.' " Deep skilled in 
 all his mother's witcheries;" and we are almost 
 tempted to suppose that he has hurled his 
 
 " dazzling spells into the air. 
 
 Of power to cheat the eye with bare illusion. 
 And give it false presentments." 
 
 Mr. Wordsworth thinks the form of the lake is 
 most perfect when like Derwent-water, and some of 
 the smaller lakes, it least resembles that of a river; 
 and when it is contemplated with that placid and 
 quiet feeling, which peculiarly belongs to still water,
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 53 
 
 under the influence of no current, and of course 
 reflecting the clouds, the light, and all the imagery 
 of the sky, and surrounding hills, expressing also, 
 and making visible the changes of the atmosphere; 
 and subject to agitation only from the winds. 
 
 Mr. Hutchinson surveyed the shores and islands 
 of Derwent-water in a boat. " We landed (says he) 
 at St. Herbert's Island, which contains about five 
 acres of land, now covered with young trees, and 
 famous for being the residence of St. Herbert, a 
 priest and confessor, who, to avoid the intercourse 
 of man, and that nothing might withdraw his atten- 
 tion from unceasing mortification and prayer, chose 
 this island for his abode. The scene around him 
 was adapted to his gloomy ideas of religion ; he 
 was surrounded by the lake, which afforded him 
 fish for his diet ; on every hand the voice of water- 
 falls excited the solemnest strains of meditation ; 
 rocks and mountains were his daily prospect, where 
 barrenness and solitude seemed to take up their 
 eternal abode ; from the situation of this place, 
 nature hath given three parts of the year to impetu- 
 ous hurricanes and storms, the fourth alone pro- 
 vides for the rest Here this recluse erected an her- 
 mitage, the remains of which are visible to this day, 
 being a buildingof stone, formed into two apartments; 
 the outward one about twenty feet long and fifteen 
 broad, the other of narrower dimensions. He was 
 contemporary with St. Cuthbert, and, as the legends 
 of that time say, by the prayers of that saint, obtained 
 a joint or equotemporary death with him, in the 
 year of our Lord 608. There is no history of his 
 life and actions to be met with, or any tradition of 
 his works of piety or miracles preserved by the inha- 
 bitants of the country. 
 
 "We now pursued our voyage by a noble woody 
 scene, where Brandelow Park, arising from the 
 edge of the lake, with stately young oaks, extends 
 its groves over two round hoes or eminences, and 
 behind them (after covering a little intervening val- 
 
 G
 
 54 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 ley) rises on the side of a mountain to a considerable 
 height, and forms a woody amphitheatre, fringed 
 with some small strips of corn, which grow under 
 its skirts ; whilst all above are stupendous hills and 
 rocks. The straight boles of the trees, together with 
 the verdure of the ground under their shadow, which 
 was perceived at a great depth in the grove, by 
 reason of the distance at which the trees stood from 
 each other, formed an uncommon and solemn scene, 
 which, being again reflected by the water, seemed 
 like enchanted haunts, where the dryads met their 
 naiad-nymphs in the happy regions of the genius 
 of the lake. 
 
 ** We arrived at the borders of Manisty Meadow, 
 a flat of a few acres at the foot of the mountains, 
 where our boat anchored, that we might enjoy the 
 pleasures of the situation: lo the left, the nearest 
 object was a wooded island, edged with rocks, be- 
 hind which, Brandelow Park, and oaken groves, 
 dressed in the deepest green, covered the hills 
 which arose immediate from the margin of the 
 lake, and from thence stretched up the foot of 
 Cathell's mountain, which laid so near us, that it 
 required the eye which reviewed its summit to be 
 returned directly upwards. On our right, at the 
 distance of about one hundred yards, lay another 
 small island, on whose rocky margin brush-wood 
 and willow hung fantastically ; above whose thickets 
 the distant shores were seen, where the mighty 
 cliifs of Falcon and Wallow Crags, projecting, shew 
 their grotesque and tremendous brows, in a lofty 
 line of rocks j beneath the feet of which a strip of 
 cultivated lands and woods shot forth a verdant 
 promontory, *which sunk gradually into the lake. 
 In the centre of this view (after stretching the eye 
 to the distance of three miles over a basin of the 
 clearest and smoothest water, spreading its bosom to 
 the noontide sun) is a large mount, called Castlehead 
 Rocks, rising in a cone, and covered with oak-wood; 
 behind which a lofty mountain raised its brown
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 55 
 
 brow, drest in heath and sun-burnt herbage, ex- 
 ceeded only by Skiddaw, covered with blue va- 
 pour, and capped with clouds, which terminate the 
 prospect. 
 
 '* After passing Bank Park, a rocky and bar- 
 ren promontory, on which a few scattered trees 
 looked deplorably aged and torn, we entered a fine 
 bay, where the mountains rise immediately out of 
 the lake; here standing perpendicular, there falling 
 back in ruinous and rude confusion, as being piled 
 heap on heap from the convulsions of chaos; 
 and in other parts shelving and hanging over the 
 lake, as if they threatened an immediate fall ; the 
 whole forming a stupendous circus. To describe 
 this view is dilBcult, as no expression can convey an 
 idea of the subject, where the wild variety consists 
 ouly of various features of the same objects j rocks 
 and mountains forming and constituting the parts of 
 this massive theatre. In the front of this romantic 
 scene, a small mount presents itself, covered with 
 herbage: small from the mighty stature and gigan- 
 tic members of the other parts of the prospect. 
 Overlooking this mount stands a round rock, push- 
 ing his mountainous brow into the clouds, once 
 crowned with a castle. On the summit of the mount, 
 sweetly contrasted by the grey rocks behind, there 
 grows, with peculiar picturesque beauties, a single 
 ancient oak The lake beneath was a perfect mir- 
 ror. On each hand the cliffs and mountains are 
 strewed with bushes and shrubs, down whose sides 
 small streams of water trill, like so many threads of 
 silver, giving a delicate mixture to the greyness of 
 the rocks over which they pass, in many places per- 
 pendicular, and rent into a thousand rude columns, 
 as if they had been torn by thunderbolts; in other 
 places they are of a tamer aspect, and, compacted 
 in one solid mass, stand firm as the pillows of the 
 antediluvian world. Where the hills are separated, 
 little vales filled with wood, or narrow winding dells 
 of grass-ground, twist around their feet, and give a 
 
 G 'i
 
 66 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 happy variegation to the view. In some places, 
 clefts in the rocks aflTord a prospect into a valley be- 
 hind i in others, the over-hanging cliffs form rude 
 arches and apertures, through which distant moun- 
 tains are discovered. Behind all are mountains 
 piled on mountains, where the clouds roll in hea- 
 vy volumes, giving a gloominess to those regions of 
 confusion and barrenness, which rendered the lus- 
 tre of the shining lake, and the streams of light 
 which fell upon the rocks, waterfalls, and shrubs, 
 brighter and more pleasing. In the cliffs in this part 
 of the lake eagles build their nests, far removed 
 from gunshot, and seldom disturbed by man; for 
 it h no easy matter to assail their lofty habitation. 
 In the sight of the cottage, hither they bring the 
 spoils of the fold or the field, to feed their young, 
 superior to the wrath of the injured. ' 1 was for- 
 tunate enough,' says Mr. Topham, ' to see the 
 storming of an eagle's nest, which was built in the 
 cleft of a rock, that has been constantly employed 
 for that purpose for many ages, notwithstanding it 
 is destroyed every year. The man who took it was 
 let down in a basket by a rope from the summit of 
 a rock, .and combated with a sword the parent 
 eagle, who fought valiantly in defence of her pro- 
 geny.' 
 
 " On these shores a salt spring of very salubrious 
 quality is found, but it is neglected, 
 
 ** We next visited a very extraordinary phenome- 
 non, an island about 40 yards in length, and SO in 
 breadth, grown over with rushes, reeds, grass, and 
 some willows. We would have landed up.on it, but 
 as the water was sai^ to be 40 fathom deep in that 
 place, and the attempt rather hazardous, we desist- 
 ed, and had not the means of enquiring particularly 
 into its nature. This island arose about four per- 
 pendicular feet above the surface of the water, on 
 which we were told it floated 5 from its magnitude 
 we were not able, with one boat, to try whether it 
 would move from the perpendicular line of its then
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 57 
 
 station, or whether it was bound to, and connected 
 with, the bottom of the lake by the roots of any 
 aquatic plants which appeared upon its sur- 
 face. 
 
 " On my second visit, the lake was greatly in- 
 creased in magnitude, insomuch, that the Lord's 
 Island, as it is called, which before was a mere 
 peninsula, was now so perfectly insulated, that we 
 sailed between it and the main land in several feet 
 water, the arm of the lake which formed this divi- 
 sion not being less than three hundred yards in 
 width; the floating island was no more to be seen ; 
 and I am induced to assert, that it never descends 
 below the surface but when the lake is full of water, 
 and the sedges and willows, which cover the point of 
 some rock, are flooded and disappear. 
 
 ** We now pushed up the river which feeds the 
 lake; the water-lily spreads its broad leaves over 
 the surface, and here and there shewed its meek 
 white bells, being at this season in full perfection. We 
 anchored near a little but pleasant habitation, call- 
 ed Lochdoor, or Lodore — a place perfectly adapted 
 for the abode of a recluse, and much preferable to 
 St. Herbert's Island, lying open to the southern sun, 
 sheltered from the north by mighty mountains,which 
 almost overhang it ; and, fronting to the widest 
 part of the bason, it commands a view of the seve- 
 ral islands, Manisty meadows, and Brandelow parks, 
 with their oaken groves hanging from the ascent 
 of the mountains, shade above shade; Cathell's 
 and the adjoining crags surmounting the whole 
 scene. 
 
 ** We were landed on a plain of meadow-ground, 
 which descended to the edge of the water, over 
 which we passed to an adjoining wood at the foot of 
 the rocks, behind Lodore-house. After winding 
 through several passes in these groves and thickets, 
 we gained a situation where we were delighted 
 with the noble objects which presented themselves 
 to our view. 
 
 G 3
 
 58 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 ** Around us was spread a grove, formed of tali 
 young oaks, ash, and birch trees, which gave an 
 agreeable coolness and bharle ; above the trees, 
 with uplifted looks, to the riaht, Ave viewed a nioun- 
 tain of rock, called Shepherd's Crag, forming a lude 
 circular mass, shelving from the foot towards its 
 crown in a spiral form ; on every plane of which, 
 and every step that hung upon its sides, heritage 
 and shrubs grew fantastically, whilst the verv 
 summit wore a verdant cap of grass. To the left 
 there arose a perpendicolar grey cliff, said to be a 
 thousand feet in height from the lake, rent into in- 
 numerable fissures, and standing, like massive co- 
 lumns, in rude arrangement, to support the seem- 
 ing ruins of a shattered tower, grown white with 
 storms, and overlooking Shepherd's Crag some hun- 
 dred feet. In the opening between these stupendous 
 rocks, the river pours its whole stream, forming a 
 grand cascade, near two hundred perpendicular feet 
 high. As the channel is rugged, the water makes a 
 sheet of foam, and roars amongst the caverns and 
 cliffs, so that you are deprived of hearing any thing 
 but its tumult. Reaching the wood, where the de- 
 scent is less precipitate, it winds among the trees, 
 sometimes shewing itself, and at others totally con- 
 cealed, whilst it serpentines towards the lake. The 
 spray, which is dashed around the rocks, and carried 
 upon the breeze, wherever it meets the ray of the 
 sun, through the openings of the cliffs, takes the 
 colours of the rainbow. On turning from this grand 
 spectacle, the greatest beauties of this lake are 
 thrown into one prospect. The ground whereon we 
 stood was rugged and rocky, shadowed with trees, 
 looking over a rich bosom of wood. Below us lay 
 the Lodore meadows, where groups of cattle were 
 dispersed, and by the shore some carpenters were 
 repairing their boats— a circumstance which enli- 
 vened the scene ; the shining lake lay in one smooth 
 plain, reflecting the azure sky chequered with 
 clouds ; over which the Vicar's Island, yellow with
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, icC. b9 
 
 corn, and the woody islands, were arranged ; the 
 mountains, whose feet were trimmed with wood, 
 lay in long perspective to the left, ('asile-head, 
 with its embowered cone, and Lord's Island arising 
 from the opposite shore, intervened between us and 
 the vale of Keswick j over which the awful Skid- 
 daw, with his inferior race of mountains, frowned in 
 azure majesty, and closed the scene. 
 
 ** Claude, in his happiest hour, never struck out 
 a finer landscape ; it has every requis te which the 
 pencil can demand, and is periiaps the only view 
 in England which can vie with the sublime scenes 
 from which that painter formed his taste. 
 
 "We now returned to our boat, and, sailinjj: 
 ■within some little distance of the shore, had a view 
 of the waterfall, where the beauties of the lake to 
 the south-east lay in pleasing perspective. We 
 looked over a small part of the bason, from whence 
 to the left a stupendous mountain of rock arose, on 
 whose skirts, and in the rents and clefts of its sides, 
 trees and shrubs climbed to the verv summit. Be- 
 fore us lay the wood from whicli we had lately pass- 
 ed, under whose shade Lodore-house and enclo- 
 sures were seen inclining towards the lake; above 
 which, the lofty precipice, the waterfall, and Shep- 
 herd's Crag, were seen in their variety of beauties ; 
 ■whilst all beyond the mountains formed a crescent, 
 enclasping a sheet of water of two miles circuit. 
 Mountain behind mountain, and rock behind rock, 
 fell here in fine perspective, and brought to our 
 minds those astonishing scenes which characterize 
 the pencil of Salvator. We passed from hence, m 
 our return to Keswick, by the coast, where we 
 were shewn a cliff' that projected over the lake, cal- 
 led Eve's Crag, from its bearing some similitude to 
 a female Colossian statue. We next passed Wal- 
 low Crag, in which a large opening is formed by 
 the parting of the rock?, bearing the name Ladys 
 Lake from the escape Lady Oerwenwater made 
 there, by climbing the horrid and stupendous
 
 (50 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 heights with such jewels and valuables as she could 
 secure, when her unfortunate lord was apprehended. 
 We now reached Lord's Island, containing some 
 acres covered with wood, where are the remains of 
 a mansion of the Derwentwater family. Formerly 
 this was only a peninsula ; but when the place ^vGs 
 made the residence of the Radclifts and Derwentwa- 
 ters, it was severed from the main land by a ditch, 
 over which was thrown a draw-bridge. Travellers 
 cannot behold the ruins of this place ^vithout yield- 
 ing a sigh for the follies of the world, and bewailing 
 the dire effects which attend ambition and the 
 crimes of princes. 
 
 *' The fish of this lake are trouts, pike, eels, and 
 perch. 'J'he romantic scenes upon the lake induced 
 us to take a boat at night, under favour of the 
 moon, which was near the full. We began our voy- 
 age soon after the moon was risen, and had illumi- 
 nated the top of Skiddaw, but from the intercepting 
 mountains had not (within the ascent of an hour) 
 reached the lake. We were surrounded with a so- 
 lemn gloom. The stillness of the evening rendered 
 the voice of the waterfalls tremendous, as they, in 
 all their variety of sounds, were re-echoed from 
 every cavern. The summits of the rocks began 
 to receive^ the yising rays, and appeared as if 
 crowned with turrets of silver, from which the stars 
 departed for their nightly round. As the night ad 
 vanced, objects arose to view as if surging on the 
 first morning from chaos ; the water was a plain 
 of sable, sprinkled over with gems, reflected from 
 the starry firmament; the groves which hung upon 
 the feet of the mountains were hid in darkness, 
 and all was one grave and majestic circle of 
 ifhadovr: 
 
 ■ " till the moon. 
 
 Rising in clouded majesty, at length, 
 Apparent queen, unveil'dher peerless light. 
 And o'er the darLher silver mantle threw." 
 When the long-protracted shade the mountains
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 61 
 
 cast on the bosom of the lake, shewed the vastness 
 of those masses from whence they proceeded 5 and 
 still as the moon arose higher in the horizon, 
 the distant objects began to be more illumined, and 
 the whole presented -us with a noble moon-light 
 piece, delicately touched by the hand of narure, 
 and far surpassing those humble scenes Avhich we 
 had often viewed in the works of the Flemish paint- 
 ers. Mist began to arise on the lake, aud by rea- 
 son of the air which bore them alofc being confined 
 and eddying within this deep circle, they were 
 whirled round, and carried upwards like a column, 
 ■which, so soon a? it approached the rays of the 
 moon, had a most wonderful appearance, and re- 
 sembled a pillar of light. The moon's mild beams 
 now glistened on the waters, and touched the 
 groves, the cliffs, and the islands, with a meek- 
 ness of colouring vrhich added to the solemnity of 
 the night. Every bay and promontory assumed an 
 appearance different from what it had by day-light; 
 the little dells which wmd round the feet of the 
 mountains, as they were shadowed by interposing 
 objects, or silvered by the moon, afforded most en- 
 chanting scenes, where we might have wandered 
 with delight till morn. 
 
 ** Where the lake narrows, and runs up in a creek 
 towards Borrovvdale, the rocks looked tremendous, 
 almost shutting us from the face of heaven ; the 
 cliffs were struck with scanty gleams of li^'hr, which 
 gained their passage through the interstices of the 
 hills, or chasms in the rocks, and served only to dis- 
 cover their horrible overhanging fronts ; their 
 mighty caverns, where the water struck by our oars 
 made a hollow sound ; theirdeformed and frowning 
 brows, the hanging shrubs with which they were 
 bearded, their sparkling waterfalls that trilled from 
 shelf to shelf, the whole half seen and half concealed, 
 leaving imagination at large to magnify the images of 
 their grandeur and horrible magnificence. "' 
 
 Bevond the lake is a tract of mountainous countrv
 
 62 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 called VVatenlath, surrounded by mountains still 
 higher, and connecting with Borrowdale Fells; at 
 the bottom of this mountainous tract is a valley, 
 which, for the space of three miles, appears like a 
 chasm of rifted rocks, the hills on each side being so 
 perpendicular, that their summits are scarcely more 
 apart than their bases ; and the valley is so contracted 
 that it affords room for little more than a path and 
 a small river, which falling into Derwent Water 
 forms the cataracts of Lowdore. 
 
 Watenlath, 
 
 The vale of this name, Mr. Gilpin observes, is 
 that tract of mountainous country (itself surrounded 
 bymountainsstillhigher) which breaks down abruptly 
 from the south upon the V^ale of Keswick. "Which 
 way to Watenlath?" said one of a company with 
 Mr. Gilpin, to a peasant, as they left the vale of 
 Borrowdale. "That '^ay' said he pointing up to 
 a lofty mountain steeper than the tiling of a house. 
 The question asked was an improper one. ** We 
 should," says Mr. G, "have asked in what direction 
 we were to seek it." For u^ay there was none, 
 except here and there a blind path, which being it- 
 self often bewildered, served only to bewilder us. 
 The inhabitants pay little attention to pathj they 
 steer along these wilds by landmarks^ which to us 
 were unknown. "At length, however, after a pain- 
 ful perpendicular march of near two miles, and 
 many a breathing pause, which our horses required, 
 we gained the top. But instead of an amusing pros- 
 pect over the country, we found ourselves in the 
 midst of a bog, with still hii;her grounds around us.'* 
 
 After some consideration, the party luckily disco- 
 vered a short descent on the other side of the moun- 
 tain, which brought them quickly to W'atenlath. 
 Here their labours were amply rewarded; they fell 
 into a piece of scenery which, for beauty and gran- 
 deur, ^^as equal, if not superior, to any thing they
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 63 
 
 had yet beheld. "This was the sparklincr rivety a 
 pure crystalline stream winding with serpentine 
 coils in its progress towards the lake of Watenlath. 
 On the left this lake is seen contracting; itself into a 
 river, closed on each side by steep towering rocks, 
 and bending to the fall which may be observed on 
 entering into Borrowdale, and gives life and spirit 
 to the whole.'' 
 
 Watenlath is a tract of mountainous country, it- 
 self surrounded by mountains much higher, which 
 connecting with Borrowdale fells advances south 
 west from" Saddleback and breaks abruptly on the 
 vale of Keswick. In its bosom is a valley so con- 
 tracted that it affords room for little more than a 
 path at the bottom, and for the little river that, fall- 
 ing into Derwentwater, forms the cataract of Low- 
 dore. For nearly the space of three miles the Vale 
 of Watenlath appears only like a chasm of rifted 
 rocks, the mountains on each side being so j)erpen- 
 dicular that their summits are almost as close toge- 
 ther as their bases. The valley terminates in a rocky 
 amphitheatre of considerable grandeur above the 
 lake of Keswick. 
 
 BoRROWDALr. 
 
 Beyond Watenlath to the west is the rocky chasm 
 of Borrowdale, a tremendous pass opening from the 
 centre of the amphitheatre at the head of Derwent- 
 water. "Dark caverns yawn at its entrance terrific 
 as the wildness of a maniac, and disclose a narrow 
 strait running up between the mountains of gra- 
 nite that are shook into almost every possible form 
 of horror, resembling the accumulations of an earth- 
 quake, " splintered, shivered, piled, amassed." 
 Through this region of desolation, which supplies a 
 succession of such romantic and picturesque scenes, 
 the river Derwent pursues its rapid course, leaping 
 from rock to rock, and giving animation to its rude, 
 horrid, or fantastic boundaries. Near the entranc<|^ 
 of the gorge is a detached mountain, called Castle"
 
 4 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 Cragj, from a fortress that once frowned upon its 
 summit, and guarded this important pass. At its 
 foot is the romantic village of Grange, situated 
 among woods and meadows. The views from Castle 
 Crag are pecuHar ; on one side are the lake and vale 
 r.f Kesv.ick, on the other the siraifs of Borrowdale, 
 where immense rocky mountains are huddled toge- 
 ther in the most singular arrangement, as if emerg- 
 ing from, or returning to the wildest chaos, *' rock 
 rises over rock, and mountain triumphs over moun- 
 tain." 
 
 The great outline of this astonishing prospect is 
 formed hy Eagle Crag, Gramarara, Bull Crag, and 
 Serjeant Crag. The lirst is a tre mendous rock at 
 the head ©f Borrowdale to the east, where the eagles 
 have commonly made their habitation and their 
 nests. The young eagles are occasionally caught by 
 the adventurous inhabitants of the vale, who let 
 down some of the most hardv of their companions 
 by ropes from the summit of some cliff, to secure 
 the ne?t whilst the old eagles are abroad. 
 
 The rocky scenes in Borrowdale, Mr. West ob- 
 served, are most fantastic, and the entrance rugged, 
 the whole forming a semicircular sweep. Extensive 
 woods deck their steep sides ; trees grow from pointed 
 rocks, and rocks appear like trees. Here the Der- 
 went, rapid as the Rhone, rolls his crystal streams 
 through all the labyrinth of embattled obstacles. 
 In fact, the scenes here are sublimely terrible, the 
 assemblage of magnificent objects so stupendously 
 great, and the arrangement so uncommonly curious, 
 that they must excite the most sensible feelings of 
 wonder and surprise, and at once impress the mind 
 with reverential awe, if not with astonishment. 
 
 " \'^'e hired" says a recent tourist, •* ponies and a 
 guide to explore the chaotic mysteries of Borrow- 
 dale. Formerly the only human vestige that pre- 
 sented itself in this dreary chasm, was the solitary 
 track of the dalesman. The road is now sufficiently 
 perspicuous ; though from the savage asperities of
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 65 
 
 the scenery, it could still be no matter of surprise, 
 if a susceptible stranger should feel somewhat awed, 
 or even intimidated, in his progress. A second 
 beautifully wooded eminence rises behind Castle 
 Crag; and the Derwent rolls its rapid channel at 
 the foot of it. 'I'he water of this beautiful river has 
 no tinge of the mountain impurities: the vari-co- 
 loured stones and granite, of which its bed is com- 
 posed, glitter in the pellucid stream like the phases 
 of a prism. From many of these tremendous cliffs 
 the fragments have been flung in awful profusion, 
 and from the danger of an instant succession no 
 part of the dale appears secure. Large and pon- 
 derous masses of rock are seen arrested in the va- 
 rious stages of their fall ; some of them have become 
 fixed, and given birth to moss and trees j and others 
 remain in a state yet menacing the safety of the 
 traveller. As we advanced, sometimes crossing and 
 at others shoring the river, we noticed on our left 
 the famous Eagle Crag. The devastation formerly 
 committed by these predatory invaders is said to 
 have amounted to the sum of one lamb a day ; 
 but the hazard of the enterprize bears no present 
 proportion to the value of the reward. A gill in the 
 Eagle Cliff communicates on the postern side, by a 
 precipitous pass of five miles, with the Vale of Lang- 
 dale, the character of which is not yielding to that 
 of Borrowdale, in its assemblage of the sublime and 
 terrific. This, however, wai insufficient to daunt the 
 intrepidity of the notorious Hatfield, who escaped 
 his pursuers by this route, after the detection of his 
 impostures by Judge Hardinge at Keswick. On the 
 right we saw a mine of blacklead in full work ; and 
 here and there a knoll, crowned with a sparing tuft 
 of lively verdure; a contrast powerfully impressive 
 in scenes v/here barbarism and desolation only are 
 in consistency, and indeed where civilization seems 
 to have made so little progress, that a person bong 
 used to the security and comforts of social life, is led 
 involuntarily to form associations of the most painful 
 
 H
 
 66 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 kind. Reached Si Torr, a little miserable village, 
 whence we clambered a rugged steep bounded by a 
 gulf, in which a cataract is dashed from rock to rock, 
 with a wildness and impetuosity well suited to the 
 liorrors of the surrounding scene. From the sum- 
 mit we commanded a noble retrospect of mountain 
 overtopping mountain, as if aspiring to lift its rugged 
 brow beyond that of its towering neighbours. Hence 
 we descended by a treacherous causeway towards 
 the village of Gatesgarth; and at this point of our 
 pilgrimage were most impressed with the savage sub- 
 limity of the spectacle. We were not seated in the 
 fosse or bold ravine of a wooded country, tempered 
 and enlivened by all the soft varieties of vegetative 
 ornament, but engulfed in a desert chasm, encom- 
 passed by perpendicular walls, of a magnitude so 
 formidable, as in the terrors of an untravelled region 
 would well nigh extinguish the hope of progress. At 
 the head of Honister, an enormous crag, forming 
 part of the left boundary, is a slate quarry ; and the 
 traveller's hallo, vibrating through a long and varied 
 cadence, is no sooner heard by the miners, than the 
 cheering response is conveyed him by the shrill but 
 faint echoes of a horn they keep for the purpose; 
 nor is this any contemptible gratification to the 
 weary victim of solitude and despondence, where no 
 sound but the reverberation of the torrent's roar 
 •♦visits his sad ear." . 
 
 Nearly opposite to Castle Crag, in one of the re- 
 cesses of this romantic chasm, is that gigantic mass 
 of rock, called the Bowder Stone. Its veins are 
 exactly similar to those of the adjoining precipice, 
 from which, it seems to have been detached, by some 
 violent convulsion of nature; but its immense size, 
 and singular position, render it nearly impossible to 
 account for the mode by which it reached the place 
 it now occupies. It rests on some fragments of rock, 
 and lies almost hollow. Its shape bears some resem- 
 blance to that of a large ship inclined U|)on its keel ; 
 i-ts length is above thirty-one yards, and its weight
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 6T 
 
 has been estimated at nearly 1800 tons. A little earth 
 on the top alTords nourishment to one or two small 
 trees. The Bowder Stone, Mr. Gilpin remarks, lies 
 in a diagonal position, overshadowing a space suffi- 
 cient to shelter a troop of horse. 
 
 Mr. Pocklington, whose erections on the island in 
 Derwent Water have called forth so many and such 
 severe censures from the admirers of nature, has 
 applied his if?iprovements to this spot, by building 
 a little mock hermitage or chapel, and by setting up 
 a druidical stone. He has also erected a little cot- 
 tage for an old woman to live in, who is to shew the 
 rock for fear travellers should pass under it without 
 seeing it, and cleared away all the fragments round 
 it ; and, as it rests upon a narrow base, he has 
 dug a hole underneath, through which the ciuious 
 may gratify themselves by shaking hands with the 
 old woman. To add to these deformities, a crazy 
 ladder has been erected against the Bowder-stone to 
 enable persons to see imperfectly from its top what 
 they can behold to much better advantage from the 
 surnmit of Castle Crag, nearly opposite, and only di- 
 vided by the river Derwent. The Bowder-stone lies 
 at the southern extremity of Derwent Water, not far 
 distant from Grange, if it is visited, as it sometimes 
 is, in an excursion round Derwent Water, it length- 
 ens the ride two miles; it is not above a mile distant 
 f-rom Castle Crag. The road continues good to 
 Rossthwaite, the first village in this secluded region, 
 where it is divided in two: one leads to the Wad- 
 mines and to Kavenglass, the other to Hawkshcad. A 
 circumstance of peculiar consolation to the traveller 
 here distinguishes this from other mountainous tracts, 
 where the hills are divided by bogs and mosses, 
 and often difficult to pass, -which is, '.hat the messes 
 are on the tops of the mountains, and a way over, 
 or around them, is never difficult to find. 'The in- 
 habitants of the dale are served with turf fuel from 
 these mosses, and the manner of procuring it is very 
 singuiar. A man carries on his back, a sledge to the 
 H 2
 
 B8 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 top of the mountain, and conducts it down the most 
 awful descents, by placing himself before it to pre- 
 vent its Turning aside. For this purpose, a narrow 
 furrow iscut in the mountain's side, which serves for 
 a road to direct the sledge, and to pitch the conduct- 
 ors heel in. A sledge of this kind holds about half 
 a horse-load drawn on the road. 
 
 From Derwent Water the excursion may heconti- 
 nuedroundBassenthwaite Water, proceeding towards 
 Bassenthwaite from Keswick. Ormathwaite is passed 
 on the right, and Crossthwaite on the left. As we 
 pursue our route, Skiddaw appears a commanding 
 object on the right. 
 
 Bassenthwaite, or Broadwater, for by both names 
 is this lake distinguished, is nearly four miles north of 
 Derwent Water, having in the east the beautiful and 
 extensive vale of Bassenthwaite, with the mighty 
 Skiddaw rearing its lofty head beyond it; and on 
 the west, a range of humble mountains, which fall 
 abruptly to the water's edge, and only admit of small 
 patches of cultivation. I'hese declivities are called 
 Withopbrows, and are partly rocky and partly cover- 
 ed with thick woods, which consist mostly of young 
 oaks, growing out of old stems. The contiguous 
 scenery affords some very fine views, and the pios- 
 pect from Ousebridge at the northern end of the 
 lake, is extremely beautiful. From this point Skid- 
 daw, with all the mountains round Borrowdale, ap^ 
 pear in a magnificent amphithcatrical perpective, 
 and the valleys both of this and Keswick lake, are seen 
 at one view, which is only terminated by the sub-i 
 lime, but dark fells of Borrow-dale. Three noble bays 
 spread their pellucid bosoms in different parts of the 
 lake, and greatly increase the beauty of the neigh- 
 bouring prospects. Broadwater is nearly a mile over 
 at the northern end, but lower down it decreases to 
 little more than a quarter of that breadth ; its length 
 is about four miles and a half. Proceeding along the 
 eastern margin of this lake to Bradness, a round ver- 
 dant hill, by a road to the left, the summit will afford
 
 LA,feE« OF CUMBERLAND, &i.C. 69 
 
 a good prospect. Going on towards Ouscbridge by 
 way of Bassenthwaite Hall, you leach Armathwaite, 
 a small but finely situated seat at the head of a°;entle 
 slope, looking towards the lake. A good inn at Ouse- 
 bridge also fronts this water, which here runs under 
 a stone bridge of three arches, and ones more re- 
 sumes the name of the river Derwent, after a winding 
 course through several verdant valleys, and falls 
 into the sea at Workington. The vale of Bassen- 
 thwaite extends from the foot of Skiddaw to Ouse- 
 bridge, variegated bv many beautiful objects, both of 
 art and nature. The lake that adds so much to its 
 ornaments, is nearly as clear as the Derwent, and 
 abounds with fish and water-fowl. 
 
 LO'.vnORE WATERFAI.L 
 
 Is one of the finest appearances in thi3n>mantic part 
 of the country. To arrive at this from Keswick, and 
 proceeding up the road on the eastern shore of Der 
 went Water, we come to Barrow House, the seat of 
 Joseph Focklington, Esq. Bevond this we ascend a 
 steep winding Alpine path to four different stations, 
 from whence the water-fail of Barrow Cascade may 
 be seen. Three miles from Keswick we arrive at the 
 water-fall of Lowdore, called the Niagara of Der- 
 went Water, situated near the head of the lake. The 
 stupendous crags that enclose the torrent are cover- 
 ed with birch, ash, and other trees, spreading out in 
 the most fantastic shapes from the fissures of the 
 roicks. Like other water-falls, Lowdore is seen to 
 the most advantage in rainy weather; the water 
 then rushes down an enormous pile of protruding 
 rocks, the roar of which it is satd can be heard at se- 
 veral miles distance. Its descent is not less than 150 
 feet. Thomson's description has been properly ap- 
 plied to Lowdore. 
 
 *' Smooth to the shelving brink a copious flood 
 Rolls fair and placid ; where collected all 
 In one impetuous torrent, down the steep 
 It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round.
 
 to EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 At first an azure sheet, it rushes broad; 
 Then whitening by degrees, as prone it falls. 
 And from the loud resounding rocks below 
 Dash'd on a cloud of foam, it semis aloft 
 A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower, 
 !Nor can the tortured wave here find repose. 
 But raging still amid the shaggy rocks. 
 Now flashes o'er the scattered fragments, now 
 Aslant the hoUow'd channel rapiddarts: 
 And falling fast from gradual slope to slope 
 "With wildinfractured course and lessen'd roar,. 
 It gains a safer bed, and steals at last 
 Along the mazes of the quiet vale." 
 
 Mr. Gilpin observed, though his party had seen 
 the fall of Lowdore from the bottom, *'we had a 
 curiosity to see how it appeared from the top, and 
 dismounting we contrived, by winding round the 
 thicketsand clinging to the projections of the rocks, 
 to get a dangerous peep down the abyss. There was 
 nothing picturesque in the view, but something im- 
 mensely grand. We now stood above those two 
 cheeks of the chasm through which the water forced 
 its way; and which, in the morning, when seen from 
 the bottom, appeared towering to a great height, and 
 "Were the most interesting parts of the view. But 
 now, amidst the greatness of the objects which sur- 
 rounded them, they were totally lost, appearing less 
 than warts to those vast limbs of nature, to which they 
 adhered. 
 
 The cannon at Lowdore inn is discharged at the 
 cost of four shillings, when any person wishes to 
 have an echo procured. A small cannon used to be 
 fired for two and sixpence. As these echoes are 
 thus expensive, it is necessary to see that the full 
 charge of powder is put in, otherwise much of the 
 c3ect| produced by the mimic thunder, will be lost.
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 
 
 71 
 
 EXCURSION IX. 
 
 From Keswick by Ulsicnier to the Inn at Patterdale,- 
 (a horse road.) 
 
 Miles. Miles' 
 
 Ou tliePenrUh road to a deviation a little be- j 
 vond Naddie Bridge ... L^§ 
 
 Wanthwaite Mill . • . . \\ H 
 
 Enter the road from Threlkeld to Ambleside; 
 turn on the right to that, bavins: ou the 
 left Hill Top ^ . . .^ . i t 
 
 Over t1ie Common, by High Row to Dock- 
 ray Inn at Pattersdale . . . 5§ 4 § 
 
 Or the Carriage Road by Ulsiccter to the Inn at Patterdale. 
 
 From the Turnpike Road to Penrith, turn off 
 
 on the right . . . . 10§ 
 
 Brownrigg . . . . C'f 13 
 
 Dockray . . . . . 2^ 13§ 
 
 Junction of the Keswick and Penrith Roads 
 
 on the side <n Ulswater . . . 1§ 17 
 
 Inn at Patterdale . ... 4 21 
 
 The Foot Road from Keswick to the Inn at Patterdale is 
 far the shortest, and is as follows, 
 
 Pursue the Ambleside Road . . 4^ 
 
 Stainah . . . . f 5 
 
 Highest part of the Footway . . ij 6§ 
 
 Grcenside's Lead Mines . . . A 7 
 
 Through Glenridden to the Penrith Road 3 10 
 
 Ina at Patterdale . . • I2 ^l| 
 Ulswater. 
 
 About two miles to the south of Dacre, is Ulswater, 
 situated partly in Cumberland, and partly in West- 
 moreland. This lake, which is in the form of an S> 
 is nine miles in extent, and above a mile in breadth, 
 though in one part, from a projection of a vast rock 
 it is not more than a quarter of a mile. " But the 
 eye loses its power of judging even of the breadth, 
 confounded by the boldness of the shores, and the 
 grandeur of the fells that rise beyond: the propor- 
 tions, however, arc grand i fur the water retains
 
 78 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 its dignity notwithstanding the vastness of its ac- 
 companiments. 
 
 ** The approach to this sublime lake, along the 
 heights of Eamont, is exquisitely interesting; for the 
 poad, being shrouded by woods, allows only partial 
 glimpses of the gigantic shapes that are assembled 
 in the distance, and awalcening high expectation 
 leaves the imagination thus elevated to paint " tlie 
 forms of things unseen." Thus, Mrs. Radcliffe ob- 
 serves, it was when we caught a view of the dark 
 broken tops of the fells that rise round Ulswater, of 
 size and shape most huge, bold, and awful, over- 
 spread with a blue mysterious tint, that seemed al- 
 most supernatural, though according in gloom and 
 sublimity with the several features it involved. 
 
 ** The view of the first reach from the foot of 
 Dunmallet, a pointed woody hill near Pooley Bridge, 
 is one of the finest on the lake, which here spreads 
 in a noble sheet, nearly three miles long, to the 
 base of Thwaithill-nab, winding round which it dis- 
 aiopears, and the whole is then believed to be seen. 
 The character of this view is nearly that of simple 
 grandeur; the mountains that impend over the shore 
 in front are peculiarly awful in their forms and atti- 
 tudes on the left the fells soften ; woodlands and 
 pastures, colour their lower declivities; and the 
 water is margined with the tenderest verdure, op- 
 posed to the dark woods and crags above. 
 
 " Winding the foot of Dunmallet, the almost 
 pyramidical hill that shuts up this end of Ulswater, 
 afid separates it from the vale of Eamont, we cross 
 Barton bridge, whence this little river, clear as 
 crystal, issues from the lake, and, through a close 
 pass, hurries over a rocky channel to the vale. Its 
 -woody steeps, the tufted island that interrupts its 
 stream, and the valley beyond, form altogether a pic- 
 ture, in fine contrast with the majesty of Ulswater, 
 expanding on the other side to the bridge. 
 
 " The characteristics of the left shore of the se- 
 cond reach are grandeur and immensity j its clifls
 
 iAiCES Oi. CUMBERLAND, &C. 73 
 
 are vast and broken, rise immediately from the 
 stream, and often shoot their masses over it; the 
 right exhibits romantic wildness, in the rough ground 
 of Dacre common, and the craggy heights above it; 
 and further on, the sweetest forms of reposing beau- 
 ty, in the grassy hillocks, and undulating copse of 
 Govvbarrow Park, infringing the water, sometimes, 
 over little rocky eminences that project into tho 
 stream, and at others in shelving bays, where the 
 lake, transparent as crystal, breaks upon the pebbly 
 bank, and leaves the road that winds there. 
 
 ** Among the boldest fells that breast the lake on 
 the left shore, are HoUing-felland Swarth-fell, now 
 no longer boasting any part of the forest of Martin- 
 dale, but shewing huge walls of naked rock, and 
 scars, which many torrents have inflicted. One 
 channel only, in this dry season, retained its shining 
 stream: the chasm was dreadful, parting the moun- 
 tain from the summit to the base. 'I'he perspective, 
 as the road descends into Gowbarrow Park, is per- 
 haps the very finest in the lake. The scenery of the 
 first reach is almost tame when compared with this, 
 and it is difficult to say where it can be equalled for 
 Alpine sublimity. The lake after expanding to a 
 great breadth, once more loses itself beyond the 
 enormous pile of rock called Place Fell, opposite 
 to which the shore, seeming to close upon all further 
 progress, is bounded by two promontories, covered 
 with woods, that shoot their luxuriant foliage to the 
 water's-ecljj;e. The shattered mass of grey rock, cal- 
 led Yew-Crag, rises immediately over these; and 
 beyond, a glen opens to a chaos of mountains, more 
 solemn in their aspect, and singular in their shape, 
 than any which have appeared, point crowding over 
 point, in lofty succession. Among these is Stone- 
 cross-pike, and huge Helvellyn, scrawling over all, 
 but losing its dignity in the masses of Alps around 
 and below it 
 
 "From Lynlph tower, in Gowbarrow Paik, the 
 lake is seen to make one of its boldest expanses, as
 
 ^4; EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 it sweeps round Place-fell, and flows info the last 
 bend of this wonderful vale. The view up this 
 reach to the south and to the east traces all the fells 
 and curving banks of Gowbarrow, that bound the 
 second reach; while to the west a dark angle ad- 
 mits a glimpse of the solemn Alps round Helvellyn. 
 
 ** Passing fine sweeps of the shore, and over bold 
 headlands, we came opposite to the vast promontory 
 named Place-fell, that pushes its craggy foot into the 
 lake, like a lion's claw, round which the waters 
 make a sudden turn, and enter Patterdale, their 
 third and final expanse In this part the lake, which 
 in the second reach had assumed the form of a 
 river, regains its original appearance, being closed, 
 at three miles distance, by the ruinous rocks that 
 guard the gorge of Patt-erdale, backed by a multi- 
 tude of fells. On one side it is bounded by the pre- 
 cipices of Place-fell, Martindale-fell, and several 
 otticrs equally rude and awful, that rise from its 
 edge, and retire in rocky bays, or project in vast 
 promontories athwart it : on the other the shore is 
 less severe, and more romantic; the rocks are lower 
 and richly w-ooded: and after receding from the 
 water, leave room for a tract of pasture, meadow, 
 or arable land to contrast their ruggedness. At 
 the upper end of the village of Patterdale, one or 
 two white farms peep out from among the trees, 
 beneath the scowling mountains that close the scene ; 
 seated in a rocky nook with corn and meadow land, 
 sloping gently in front to the lake, and here aivd 
 tliere a scattered grove. 
 
 " Entering Glencoin woods, and sweeping the 
 boldest bay of the lake, while the water dashed with 
 a strong surge upon the shore, we at length mount- 
 ed a road, frightful from its steepness and crags, 
 and gained a wooded summit, which we had long 
 admired. From hence the view of Ulswater is the 
 most various and extensive that its shores exhibit, 
 comprehending its two principal reaches ; and 
 (^ough not the most pictujesviue, it is x:eriainly the
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 7^ 
 
 most grand. To the east extends the middle sweep, 
 in long and equal perspective, walled with bar- 
 ren fells on the right, and skirted on the left 
 with the pastoral recesses and bowery projections 
 of Gowbairow Park. The rude mountains above 
 almost seem to have fallen back from the shore, 
 to admit this landscape within their hollow bosom, 
 and then bending abruptly, like Milton's Adam 
 viewing the sleeping Eve, to hang over it enamoured. 
 
 " Place-fell, which divides the two last bends, and 
 was immediately opposite the point we were on, is 
 of the boldest form. It projects into the water, an 
 enormous mass of grey crag, scarred with dark yews ; 
 then, retiring a little, it again bends forward in huge 
 cliffs, and finally starts up a vast perpendicular face 
 of rock. As asinjile object it is wonderfully grand, 
 and connected with the scene its effect is sublime. 
 The lower rocks are called silver-rays, and not 
 una|)tly ; for when the sun shines upon them, their 
 variegated sides somewhat resemble in brightness 
 the rays streaming beneath a cloud, 
 
 ** The last reach of Ulswater, which is on the 
 right of this point, expands into an oval, and its 
 majestic surface is spotted with little rocky islets, 
 that would adorn a less sacred scene, but are here 
 prettynesses, that can scarcely be tolerated by the 
 grandeur of its character. The tremendous moun- 
 tains, which scowl over the gorge of Patterdale ; 
 the cliffs, massy and broken, and overlooked by a 
 multitude of dark summits, with the grey walls of 
 Swarth and Martindale fells, that upheave them- 
 selves on the eastern shore, form one of the most 
 grand and awful pictures on the lake; yet ad- 
 mirable and impressive as it is, as to solemnity and 
 astonishment, its effect is not equal to that of the 
 more Alpine sketch caught in distant perspective, 
 from the descent into Gowbarrow Park. 
 
 ** The rocks of Ulswater and its vicinity are 
 icelebratedfor reverberating sounds J and the echoes
 
 76 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 producetl are described by several writers as ex- 
 ceedingly grand and impressive. 
 
 ** There is another species of echoes, which are 
 well adapted to the lake in all its stillness and tran- 
 quillity, as the others are to its wildness and con- 
 fusion, and which recommend themselves chiefly to 
 those feelings that depend on the gentler movements 
 of the mind. Instead of cannon, let a few French- 
 horns and clarionets be introduced: softer music 
 than such loud wind instruments would scarcely 
 have power to vibrate. The effect is now wonder- 
 fully changed: the sound of a cannon is heard in 
 bursts; it is the music only of thunder; but the 
 co7itinuaf.ion of musical sounds forms a continuation of 
 musical echoes, which reverberating round the lake, 
 are exquisitely melodious in their several grada- 
 tions, and form a thousand symphonies, playing to- 
 gether from every part. The variety of notes is in- 
 conceivable: the ear is not equal to their innumer- 
 able combinations. It is listening to a symphony dy- 
 ing away at a distance, while other melodious sounds 
 arise close at hand; these have scarcely attracted 
 the attention when a different mode of harmony 
 arises from another quarter, In short, erery rock 
 w vocal ; and the whole lake is transformed into a kind 
 of jnagicalsceneyin "which tvtry promontory seerns peo- 
 pled bi^ aerial beings, ansivering each other in celestial 
 music J' 
 
 Ulswater abounds with fish of various kinds, 
 among which is a species of trout peculiar to this 
 water, weighing upwards of 30 pounds ; the eels 
 are also of a very large size, and of the finest 
 liavour, 
 
 A later tourist informs us, that the approach to 
 Ulswater from Keswick is by Matteri...!e and Lyulph's 
 Tower into Gowbarrow Park ; presents us with a 
 magnificent view of the two higher reaches of the 
 Lake, Airey Force th'-nders dow.i the Gh'.ll on the 
 left, :.' a small distance from the road. Approach- 
 ing Ulswater from Penrith, a mile and a half from
 
 LAKES OV CUMBERLAND, &C. 77 
 
 tliis place, we come to the winding vale of Eamont, 
 •whence the prospects increase till we reach Patter^ 
 dale. As the first four miles along Ulswater are com- 
 paratively tame, in order to see the lower part of the 
 lake to advantage, it is necessary to go round by 
 Pooly Bridge, and to ride at least three miles along 
 the Westmoreland side of the water, towards Martin- 
 dale. Ascending from the road into the fields, the 
 views are magnificent. Those who take this course 
 of three or four miles on foot, should have a boat in 
 readiness, at the end of the walk, to carry them across 
 to the Cumberlandsideof thelake, near Old Church, 
 and then follow the road upwards to Pattcrdale. The 
 church-yard yew-tree survives at Old Church, but 
 there are no remains of a place of worship, a new- 
 chapel having been erected in a more central situa- 
 tion. 
 
 At Dalemain, about three miles from Penrith, 
 the stream called the Dacor is crossed ; this does not 
 enter Ulswater, but joins the Eamont a mile below j 
 it rises in the moors about Penruddock, and passes 
 the ancient mansions of Hutton John and Dacre 
 Castle. From some of the fields near Dalemain, 
 Dacre Castle, backed by the jagged summit of Sad- 
 dleback, with the valley and stream in front, may be 
 seen to advantage. A glen or valley, worthy notice, 
 leads up to Airey Force and thence to Martindale, a 
 wild and interesting spot. In Gowharrow Park, the 
 lover of Nature mi'^ht linger for hours : here is a 
 brook that dashes amongst rocks through a deep 
 glen, hung on every side with a rich and happy in- 
 termixture of native wood; here are beds of luxu- 
 riant fern, aged hawthorns, and hollies, decked with 
 honey-suckles ; and fallow deer glancing and bound- 
 ing over the lawns and through the thickets. These 
 constitute a fore-ground for ever-varying pictures of 
 the majestic lake, forced to take a winding course 
 by bold promontories, and environed by mountains 
 of sublime form, towering above each other. At the 
 outlet of Gowbarrow Park there is another stream
 
 78 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 flowing through a little recess, called Glencoin, with 
 a single house, visible from the road. Having passed 
 tinder the steeps of Styebarrow Crag, and the re- 
 mains of its woods at Glenridding Bridge, a fourth 
 stream is crossed. The opening of this on the side 
 of Ulswater Vale is adorned wifh fertile fields, cot- 
 tages, and natural groves; and if followed beyond 
 the enclosures, will lead along bold water-breaks and 
 water-falls to a silent tarn in the recesses of Helvel- 
 lyn. This desolate spot was formerly the haunt of 
 eagles, that built in the precipice which forms its 
 western barrier. These birds used to wheel round 
 the head of the solitary angler. At the head of the 
 lake, being now in Patterdale, seven miles and a half 
 from Ambleside, Grisdale Beck, a fifth stream from 
 Keswick, is crossed ; hence you may pass through a 
 woody steep, up to the level area of the valley of 
 Grisdale, where there are some hollies uncommonly 
 large; hence there is a path for foot travellers to 
 Grasraere, along which a horse may be led, if neces- 
 sary. Whilst ascending this valley, a sublime com- 
 bination of mountain forms appear in front, and 
 increase till the path leads almost immediately under 
 the masses of Helvellyn. The road up the main 
 dale, the next considerable stream, would conduct 
 »is to Deep dale, which is terminated by a cove, a 
 craggy and gloomy abyss, with steep sides ; a faithful 
 receptacle of the snows that are driven into it by the 
 west wind from the summit of Fairfield. Lastly, 
 having proceeded along the western side of Brother's 
 Water, a stream soon after issues from a cove richly 
 decorated with native wood. This is a spot seldom 
 explored by travellers. But whoever looks back 
 from these sylvan and rocky recesses on the gleam- 
 ing surface of Brother's Water, or forward to the 
 steep sides and lofty ridges of Dove Crag, will be 
 equally pleased with the beauty, grandeur, and wild- 
 ness of the country. Seven glens or valleys branch 
 off" from the Cumberland side of the vale. ' The op- 
 posite side has only two streams of any importance, 
 one of which crosses the Kerkstone road, near the foot
 
 LAKES OP CUMBERLAND, &C. 70 
 
 of Brother's Water i this road leads to the decaying 
 liamlct of Hartsop, remarkable for its cottage archi- 
 tecture. The other coming down Martindale enters 
 Ulswater at Sandwyke, opposite Gowbarrow Park. 
 Fiom Blowick a narrow track conducts along the 
 craggy side of Place Fell, richly adorned with juni- 
 per, and sprinkled over with birches, to the village 
 of Sandwyke. Martindale is not rich, but interesting 
 from its seclusion. The general want of wood in 
 these vales give a peculiar interest to the scattered 
 cottages embowered in sycamores, and few of the 
 mountain chapels are morestrikmg than this of Mar- 
 tindale. The name of Boardale, a deep, bare, and 
 houseless valley, which communicates with Martin- 
 dale, shews that the wild swine were once numerous 
 in that nook. In Martindale, the road loses sight 
 of the lake and leads <jter a sleep hill, bringing ua 
 again in sight of Ulswater, or, rather, of its lowest 
 reach, four miles in length ; and the new road is tcr- 
 Diinated by the long ridge of Cross Fell in the dis- 
 tance. Immediately under the eye is a deep indented 
 bavj rendered cheerful by two or three subtantial 
 houses, more ornamented and shewy than usual in 
 these wild spots. 
 
 Patterdale. 
 Patterdale, or Patrick's-dale, takes its name from 
 the baptisms of that saint, purported to have been 
 performed at a fount still preserved by the road- 
 side. It is a poor little village, in which, however, 
 if there is but little to admire, there is nothing to 
 oflfend the e}c or the imagination. Its fine pastoral 
 valley is watered by the river Coldrill, which contri- 
 butes to replenish the lake. Nothing can exceed the 
 verdure of its inclosures, which ate exposed to frc- 
 iquent inundations, and have been known to lie half 
 the season under water. The fine conical hill called 
 Hartsop Dod, is seen from the western shore, thrust- 
 ing forward its sharp bold breast, and shutting the 
 vale. 'J'he lake is nine miles long, about three quar- 
 ters of a ciile across, and seventy yards deep. It is
 
 ^0 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 Avell stocked with trout and char, and is exclusively 
 famous for a fish called scalers, or skellies, which 
 somewhat resemble herrings, and herd in shoals. 
 An old fisherman of the dale once netted 12,000 of 
 these at a draught. The wa!er possesses little trans- 
 parency, and is indeed often turbid. Tvs-o small in- 
 sular specks appear upon its surface. On the banks 
 of Windermere we had admired the beautiful and 
 picturesque; the Lake of Derwent had astonished 
 «s with the profusion of the sublime and wild ; but 
 the sober serenity of Ulswattr inspired us ivith the 
 more elevated notions of romantic grandeur. On 
 the right of the road, at the entrance of the village, 
 a finely furnished glen intersects for miles the mots 
 of the mountains, II is overhung by the prominent 
 summits of Glenridding Dod, Black Crag, and the 
 Griesdale Fells ; along and beautiful chain. In the 
 distance rises Stone Cross Pike, and beyond it peej)s 
 the spire of Helvellyn. From a tarn or little lake 
 in its summit issues the beck of Glenridding, which 
 rushing fretfully through the hollow of the glen, 
 empties its crystal stores into the lake. A bridge 
 under which it flows, serves as a land mark to divide 
 the counties. 
 
 The annals of the royal house of Patterdale are 
 simply these: on some sudden emer'^^ency at the 
 time of a Scottish irruption upon the northern coun- 
 ties, so frequently occurring in the history of our 
 early reigns, a chief was wanted to embody and 
 command the shepherds of the dale. In this dilem- 
 ma, an enterprizing peasant, of the name of Moun- 
 sey, "disdained the shepherd's slothful life,'' and 
 boldly volunteered his services as the leader of his 
 countrymen. His ofier was accepted j and such was 
 the vigilance and precision with which his warlike 
 genius inspired him, that he succeeded in a total 
 rout of the invading army. He was accordingly 
 crowned amidtlie acclamations of victory, and pro- 
 claimed King of Patterdale. The succession was of 
 course hereditary, and for some generations the 
 monarch received the more substantial homage of
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 81 
 
 his subjects. The family has risen by honourable 
 industry to a state of comparative opulence ; but 
 the regal title and claims are oniy chronicled in the 
 memory of the oldest inhabitants. Mr. Gilpin's 
 story of Mattison, the curate, extraordinary as it 
 may appear, however affords no criterion of the be- 
 nefit of z. prudent economy, or, indeed, of the value 
 of the articles of life, since the character of the 
 man was palpably that of a notorious miser) nor did 
 he send his son to the University, as Mr. Gilpin was 
 wrongly informed. 
 
 Upon an income of 18l. and sometimes 201. per 
 annum, he married, brought up four children, and 
 left upwards of lOOOl. behind him ! 
 
 "He himself read the burial service over his mo- 
 ther — married his father, and afterwards buried 
 him. He published his own banns of marriage in 
 the church with a woman he had formerly christen- 
 ed, and himself married all his four children.'' 
 
 The former simplicity of this place, the tourists 
 complain, is no longer to be met with. 
 
 Travellers from the south, may sec Ulswaterfrom 
 Ambleside in a quicker succession or" fine scenes 
 than from any other posting town. Those who take 
 this ride, are conducted over Kerkstone by a singular 
 descent to Brother V\ ater, and thence through a 
 valley to the inn, thence by an excursion in several 
 successive changes from land to water, they will be 
 introduced to the favourite haunts of beauty. From 
 Penrith on the return to Ambleside all the delightful 
 scenery lying between the foot and the head of the 
 lake ; and the vales of Patterdale and Hartshop may 
 be enjoyed in features greatly differing from those 
 presented in their progress from Ambleside to Uls- 
 "water. The read from Ambleside is rich in scenes 
 of grandeur and beauty. The celebrity of this tour 
 induces many tourists to place themselves on the 
 outside of the coach, which leaves Ambleside at 
 eight o'clock in the morning, and arrives at Keswick 
 about eleven. 
 
 I 3
 
 32 
 
 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 EXCURSION X. 
 
 Keswick to Skiddaw. 
 
 The old Road by Great Croslliwaife and 
 Spooney Green to its union uith Mr. Cal- 
 vert's Road .... 
 
 (Or by permission given to the public by 
 Win. Calvert, Esq. and J. Banks, Esq.) 
 
 Greta Bank Bridge .... 
 
 Greta Bank .... 
 
 Union of the Spooney Green Road and the 
 Terrace Road from Greta Bank . 
 
 Junction on tiie Gale vvitii the Road from 
 Bassenthwaite to Threlkeld, reckoning by 
 Mr. Calvert's New Road . 
 
 From the Gale Road by the side of the wall, 
 first on a roundish swell to a hollow, and 
 thence in a steep ascent to the Common 
 Gate . . 
 
 Spring of Water and the First Man . 
 
 From the well by the horse track, on the east 
 
 (^ of the First and Second Man to the Third 
 Man, and thence to the sixth or highest 
 heap of stones . . . . 
 
 Back to Keswick .... 
 
 Miles. Miles. 
 
 U 
 
 Si 
 41: 
 
 
 In good weather, when strangers visit Keswick for 
 the purpose of viewing the grand and beautiful 
 scenes surrounding it, a journey to the summit is 
 generally undertaken. Skiddaw is less difficult of 
 ascent than the rest of the superior elevations, and 
 the road from Keswick is so constructed as to render 
 the journey easy either on horse or foot. Miiny of 
 the horses in the daily practice of surmounting this 
 hill, pace it up and down with as little trepidation 
 as they pass a flat ; a lady of light weight may ride 
 to the top of Skiddaw without alightini;, and descend 
 to the town in safety, if some one manages her horse's 
 head in the steepest parts; though it is a relief both 
 to the horse and the rider to dismount occasionally. 
 
 The nearest horse and foot road to Skiddaw is on 
 the VVigton Road by Bassenthwaite to Great Cross-
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 83 
 
 thwaite; thence in a deviation of a quarter of a mile 
 to the right on the Threlkeld Road, where it turns at 
 right angles up a pretty steep hill called Spooney 
 Green to its junction with Mr. Calvert's road, one 
 mile and a quarter from Keswick. All this rise pre- 
 sents in retrospect a glorious view of the town, the 
 lake, and the charming scenery of Oimathwaite. — 
 Or Skiddaw may be approached by the bridge near 
 Greta Bank, William Calvert, Esq, and John Banks, 
 Esq. of Keswick, to whom this bridge belongs, with 
 a highly creditable degree of liberality, gave Mr. 
 Green permission to announce to strangers that 
 they might use this bridge on foot or horseback as 
 a passage to the terrace road, extending from Greta 
 Hank to its union with the old way by Spooney 
 Green. This road, for scenic beauty, is unequalled 
 in the environs of Keswick. 
 
 This new approach to Skiddaw travels the Penrith 
 road more than half a mile, chiefly no the pleasant 
 holders of the river Greta: on the northern side of 
 the bridge the road ascends rather steeply from 
 Great Crosthwaite by Brundholm to Threlkeld. 
 On entering this road the eye is rivetted on the 
 mountains of Newlands, Brathwaite, and Thorn - 
 thwaite. Over the kitchen garden is a fine burst on 
 Grisedal Pike. Beyond the wood of larches aie 
 seen the town of Keswick and both ends of Derwent 
 Water with its craggy boundaries. Bassenthwaite 
 and its intermediate lands display the seats and farms 
 on every side extending from the church. Between 
 the top of Skiddaw and the lake of Bassenthwaite the 
 numerous narrow avenues are thus described by Mr, 
 fiouseman, " On looking down the profound pre- 
 cipice almost in any direction, the sight recoils with 
 horror. Chasms of enormous depth in the bowels 
 of the mountain forming steeps of slatey shiver, 
 yawn upwards with a frightful aspect," 
 There tow'ring Skiddaw wrapp'd in awful shade. 
 Monarch of mountains, rears his mighty head, 
 Dark'ning with frowns fair Koswirk^ beauteous vale.
 
 ^4 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 Secure -nor heeds the rolling thunder's rage, 
 Though Scruffel trembling, marks the direpresag^i 
 
 Scruffel is a mountain in Annandale in Scotland, 
 the inhabitants of which prognosticate good or bad 
 weather, from the mists that rise or fall on the brow 
 of Skiddaw. Floating vapours towards the summit 
 of Skiddaw, frequently prove sources of much amuse- 
 ment; as these mists sometimes encircle the party 
 so densely as to render objects invisible that are not 
 fifty yards from the eye. At other times momentary 
 glimpses are caught of the far removed country. 
 Thus by an ever-shifting exhibition the eye is kept 
 in perpetual play, and the senses alternately delight- 
 ed, vexed, or agitated into extremes. — Open sun- 
 shine or murky gloom occasionally result from this 
 kind of vapour, and in the heat of one, or in the 
 comparative chill of the other, the traveller very 
 frequently descends from this mountain. 
 
 The following is a very interesting description of a 
 visit to the summit of this height:— 
 
 "Ascending this tremendous mountain from Kes- 
 wick, and passing through bowery lanes, luxuriant 
 with mountain ash, holly, and a variety of beautiful 
 shrubs, to a broad open common, a road led us to the 
 foot of Latrigg, or as it is called by the country peo- 
 ple, Skiddaw's Cub, a large round hill, covered with 
 heath and turf. A narrower path now wound along 
 steep green precipices, the beauty of which prevented 
 what danger there was from being perceived; Der- 
 went Water was concealed by others; but soon after 
 we rose above the steeps, and it appeared with all 
 its enamelled banks, sunk deep amidst a chaos 
 of mountains, and surrounded by ranges of fells, 
 not visible from below. On the other hand, the 
 more cheerful lake of Bassenthwaite expanded at its 
 entire length. Soon after we reached the brink of a 
 chasm, on the opposite side of which wound our 
 future track ; for the ascent is here in an acutely 
 zig-zag direction. 
 
 <* At length, as we ascended, Derwent Water
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 8^ 
 
 dwindled on the eye to the smallness of a pond, wiiile 
 the granduer of its amphitheatre was increased by 
 new ranges of dark mountains, no longer individually 
 great, but sublime from accumulation; a scenery 
 calculated to give ideas of the breaking up of a world. 
 Other precipices soon hid it again; but Bassenthwaite 
 continued to spread immediately below us, till we 
 turned into the heart of Skiddaw, and were inclosed 
 by its steeps. We had now lost all trace even of the 
 flocks that were scattered over those tremendous 
 wilds ; and the guide conducted us by many curvings 
 among the heathy hills and hollows of the mountains. 
 An opening to the south at length shewed the whole 
 plan of the narrow vales of St. John, and of Nadale, 
 separated by the dark ridge of rock, called St. John's 
 Rigs, with each its small line of verdure at the bot- 
 tom. 
 
 ** Leaving this view, the mountain scon again shut 
 out all prospect but of its own valleys and pre- 
 cipices, covered with various shades of turf and 
 moss, and with heath» of which a dark purple was 
 the prevailing hue. Not a tree or bush appeared on 
 Skiddaw ; nor even a stone- wall any where broke the 
 simple greatness of its lines. Sometimes we looked 
 into tremendous chasms, where the torrent, heard 
 roaring long before it was seen, had worked itself a 
 deep channel, and fell from ledge to ledge, foaming 
 and shining amidst the dark rock. These streams 
 are sublime, from the length and precipitancy of 
 their course, which hurrying the sight with them into 
 the abyss, act as it were in sympathy with the nerves ; 
 and to save ourselves from following, we recoiled from 
 the view with involuntary horror. 
 
 "The air now became very thin, and the steeps 
 still more difficult of ascent. About a mlie from the 
 summit the way was indeed dreadfully sublime, lay- 
 ing for nearly half a mile along the edge of a preci- 
 pice, that passed with a swift descent for probably 
 almost a mile, into a glen, within the heart of Skid- 
 daw; and neither a hill nor bush interrupted its vast
 
 St5 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 length: nor by offering a midway check in the de- 
 scent, diminished the fear it inspired. The ridgy 
 steeps of Saddleback formed the opposite boundary 
 of the glen ; and, though really at a considerable dis- 
 tance, had, from tbe height of the two mountains, 
 such an appearance of vicinity, that it almost seemed 
 as if we could spring to its side. The hills in this 
 part rose so closely above the precipice, as scarcely 
 to allow a ledge wide enough for a single horse. 
 After this the descent appeared easy and secure j and 
 we were bold enough to wonder that the steeps near 
 the beginning of the mountain had excited any 
 anxiety. 
 
 " Passing the skirts of the two points of Skiddaw 
 which are nearest to Derwent Water, we approached 
 the third and loftiest, and then perceived that their 
 steep sides, together with the ridges which connect 
 them, were entirely covered, near the summit, with 
 a whitish shivered slate, which threatens to slide 
 down thein with every gust of wind: the broken 
 state of this slate makes the present summits seeni 
 like the ruins of others. The ridge on which we 
 passed, from the second summit to the third, was 
 narrow, and the eye reached on each side down 
 the whole extent of the mountains, following, on the 
 left, the rocky precipices of Bassenthwaite, and look- 
 ing, on the right, into tbe glens of Saddleback, far, 
 far below. But the prospects that burst upon us 
 from every part of the vast JioiiaoH, when we had 
 gained the summits, were such as we had scarcely 
 dared to hope for, and must now rather venture to 
 enumerate than to describe. 
 
 " We stood on a pinnacle commanding the whole 
 dome af the sky. The prospects below, each of 
 which had been before considered separately as a 
 great scene, was now miniature parts of the immense 
 landscape. To the north lay, like a map, the vast 
 tract of low country which extends between Bas- 
 senthwaite and the Irish Channel, marked with the 
 ^ilver circles of the river Derwent, in its progress
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 8/ 
 
 from the lake. Whitehaven, and its white coasr, ' 
 were distinctly seenj and Cockermouth seemed al- 
 nrost under the eye ; a long hlackish line, more to 
 the west, was said by the guide to be the Isle of Man. 
 Bounding on the low country to the North, the wide 
 solitary Frith, with its indented shores, look like a 
 grey horizon ; and the double range of Scottish 
 mountains, seen distinctly through the mist beyond, 
 seemed like lines of dark clouds above it. The Sol- 
 way appeared serprizingly near us, though at 50 
 miles distance; and the guide said that on a bright 
 day its shipping could plainly be discerned. Nearly 
 in the north, the heights seemed to softhn into 
 plains; for no object was there visible, through the 
 obscurity that had began to draw over the farthest 
 distance; but towards the east they began to swell 
 again; and what we were told were the Cheviot 
 Hills, dawned feebly beyond Northumberland. We 
 now spanned the narrowest part of England, look- 
 ing from the Irish Channel on one side, to the Ger. 
 man Ocean on the other; the latter was, however, 
 so far off, as to be discernible only like a mist. 
 
 "Nearer than the county of Durham stretched 
 the ridge of Cross Fell, and an indistinct multitude 
 of the Westmoreland and Yorkshire Islands, whose 
 lines disappeared beyond Saddleback, now evidently 
 pre-eminent over Skiddaw, Passing this mountain 
 in our coarse to the south, we saw immediately below 
 the Fells, round Derwent Water, the lake itself, re- 
 maining still concealed in their deep rocky bosom. 
 Southward and westward the whole prospect was a 
 turbulent chaos of dark mountains. All individual 
 dignity was now lost in the immensity of the whole, 
 and every variety of character was overpowered by 
 that of astonishing and gloomy grandeur. 
 
 " Over the Fells of Borrowdale, and far to the 
 south, the northern end of Windermere appeared 
 like a wreath of grey smoke, that spread along the 
 mountain's side. Klore southward still, and beyond 
 ail the fells of the lakes, Lancaster stands extended
 
 as EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 'to the faintly seen waters of the sea« To the west, 
 Duddon Sands gleamed in a long line among the 
 fells of High Furness. Immediately under the eye 
 lay Bassenthwaite, surrounded by many ranges of 
 mountains, invisible from below. We saw green 
 cultivated vales, over the tops of lofty rocks, and 
 other mountains over these vales in lofty ridges, 
 whil-t innumerable narrow glens were traced in all 
 their windings, and seemed uniting behind the hills, 
 with others that also sloped upward from the lake. 
 
 "The air on this summit was boisterous, intensely 
 cold, and difficult to be respired, though the day 
 was belov/ warm and serene. It was dreadful to 
 look down from nearly the brink of the point on 
 which we stood, upon the lake of Bassenthwaite, and 
 over a sharp and separated ridge of rocks, that from 
 below appeared of tremendous height, but now 
 seemed not to reach half way up Skiddawj it was 
 almost as if 
 
 * the precipitation might down stretch 
 Below the beam of sight.' 
 "In the descent it was interesting to observe each 
 mountain below gradually re-assuming its dignity, 
 the two lakes expanding into spacious surfaces, the 
 many little valleys that sloped upwards, from their 
 margins, recovering their variegated tints of cultiva- 
 tion, the cattle again appearing in the meadows, and 
 the woody promontories changing from smooth 
 patches of shades into richly-turfed summits. At 
 about a mile from the top, a great difference was 
 perceptible in the climate, which became compa- 
 ratively warm, and the summer hum of bees was 
 again heard among the purple heath.'* 
 
 Mr. Hutchinson, on ascending this mountain, was 
 overtaken by a thunder storm, of which he gives the 
 following interesting particulars: — 
 
 "Whilst we remained upon the mountain, over 
 the hills which lie between Keswick and Cocker- 
 mouth, dense and dark vapours began to rise; and, 
 in a little time, as they advanced upon a south-west
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 89 
 
 wind, concealed those heights we had viewed half 
 an hour hefore clear and distinct. Our guide was 
 very earnest with us to quit the mountain, as he 
 prognosticated the hazard of being wet, and -f losing 
 our way in the heavy vapour, from a storm then 
 collecting, wj)icli he assured us would soon cover ^ 
 Skiddaw. The circumstance was too singular to 
 be left by people curious in their observations on 
 natural events. We desired our guide would take 
 care of himself, and leave us to our pleasure; but 
 the good attendant had a due sense of our impro- 
 priety in wishing to be left there, ar d determined 
 to abide by us. The clouds advanced with acce- 
 lerated speed; a hollow blast sounded amongst the 
 hills and dells which lay belov/, and seemed to fly 
 from the approaching darkness : the vapour rolled 
 down the opposite valley of Newland, and appeared 
 to tumble in mighty sheets and volumes from the 
 brow of each mountain into the vale of Keswick 
 and over the lakes. Whilst we admired this phe- 
 nomenon, the clouds below us gradually ascended, 
 and we soon found the summit of Skiddaw totally 
 surrounded, whilst we on every side loolied down 
 upon an angry and impetuous sea, heaving its billows. 
 We were rejoicing in this grand spectacle of nature, 
 and thinking ourselves fortunate in having beheld so 
 extraordinary an event, when, to our astonishment 
 and confusion, a violent burst of thunder, engen- 
 dered in the vapour below, stunned our sense, being 
 repeated from every rock, and down every dell, in 
 horrid uproar ; at the same time, from the agitation 
 of the air, the mountain seemed to tremble at the 
 explosion, the clouds were instantaneously illuminat- 
 ed, and from innumerable chasms sent forth streams of 
 lightning. Our guide lay upon the earth terrified 
 and amazed, in his ejaculations accusing us of pre- 
 sumption and impiety. Danger made us solemn; 
 we had no where to fly for safety, no place to cover 
 our heads; to descend, was to rush into the inHam- 
 inable vapour from whence our perils proceeded, 
 
 K
 
 90' EXCl/RSIONS TO THE 
 
 to stay was equally hazardous; for now the cloudsg 
 which had received such a concussion from the' 
 thunder, ascended higher and higher, enveloping 
 the whole mountain, and letting fall a heavy shower 
 of rain. VVe thought ourselves happy even under 
 this circumstance, to perceive the storm turning 
 north-west, and to hear the next clap burst in the 
 plain beyond Bassenthwaite-water. A like event has 
 frequently happened to travellers in the heights of 
 the Alps, from whence the thunder storms are seen 
 passing over the countries beneath them. The 
 echoes from the mountains which bordered Keswick 
 Lake, from Nevvland, Borrowdale, and Lowdore, 
 were noble, and gave a repetition of the thunder-claps 
 distinctly, though distant, after an intermission of 
 several seconds of tremendous silence! The rain, 
 which still increased, formed innumerable streams 
 and cascades, which rushed from the crown of Skid- 
 daw, Saddleback, and Cawsey Pike, with a mighty 
 noise; but we were deprived of the beauty of these 
 waterfalls by the intercepting vapour, which was not 
 to be penetrated by the eye more than a few yards 
 before us. We descended the hill wet and fatigued, 
 and were happy when we regained our inn at Kes- 
 wick, which we now esteemed a paradise." 
 
 Between Skiddaw and Ulswater is Matterdale and 
 Mart Fell, a ridge of hill so called from the protec- 
 tion it affords to the Foulmart or Fitchet, an animal 
 of the weasel tribe, whose history is chiefly curious 
 for the singular mode in which it obtains its prey. 
 The farmer's hen-roost is the scene of their noctur- 
 nal depredations. Placing themselves directly be- 
 neath the perch upon which the poultry sleep, they 
 emit on a sudden an intolerable and noxious odour, 
 which so powerfully operates upon the nerves of the 
 sleeping victim, that it faints and drops almost in- 
 stantaneously, and they then trail it away in the man. 
 ner of foxes. The people of St. John's Dale are 
 great mart-hunters: the animal, which is not swift, 
 soon flies to its warren for refuge, where it is sut^b-
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 li 
 
 7| 
 
 
 2 
 
 91 
 
 f . 
 
 ^ 
 
 lOf 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 12 
 
 
 1 
 a 
 
 12§ 
 
 
 1-1 
 
 14 
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 5l 
 
 t^ted with the fumes of lighted straw. There is a 
 breed perfectly inodorous, and comparatively little 
 destructive; this is called the Sweet-mart. In this 
 neighbourhood there have been abundance of foxes 
 and wild cats, for the production of every head of 
 which the peasantry received a pecuniary compen- 
 sation. 
 
 EXCURSION XI. 
 From Keswick to Buttermerej through Borrowdale. 
 
 Miles. Miles. 
 
 Kossthwaite . 
 
 Seat Oiler 
 
 Summit of the road near Vew Crag 
 
 Honister Crag 
 
 Gatesgarth 
 
 Hassncss 
 
 Inn at Buttermere 
 
 At the small villao;eof Seat Oiler, the Buttermere 
 road leaves that to Wast Water, and passes two hun- 
 dred yards from the bridge ; crossing the river that 
 ripples by the road, all the mountain tops from Coat- 
 barrow to Gl^ramara appear, by degrees, as the tra- 
 veller advances. These are Coatbarrow in Waten- 
 lath; High Knottsand Wythburn Head, Goody Gill 
 Head, and Maw Edge, on the right of which is 
 Rossthwaite Cam, with the craggy line of summit 
 extending to Coom head, including Dove nest, and 
 the yawning cavern called Coom Door. 
 
 Proceeding from the top of the pass Fleetwith 
 appears, and on its side Honister Crag, one of the 
 most stupendous rocks in Cumberland. Here may 
 be observed one of those tracks nn which slaters as- 
 cend to their daily labours. From many quarries, 
 where the descent is not particularly steep, the slate 
 is conveyed to the lower lands in carts, but from Ho- 
 nister, not many years since, it was invariably brought 
 down by men, in hurdles placed at their backs, and 
 on ground so steep that it could scarcely be credited 
 by persons not witnessing the circumstance. This use 
 of the hurdle is still continued on Yew Crag. The 
 k2
 
 92 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 road all the way to Gatesgarth is bordered by huge 
 rocks ; and, in a winding course, has, on the left, 
 the tremendous Honisier^ and on the right, Yew 
 Crags and Gatesgarth side, and at their feet, a fretful 
 stream, which after various traverses and boundings, 
 falls into the peaceful lake of Buttermcre. At the 
 end of Honister Crag or Fleetwith, stands the sheep 
 farm-house, and other dwellings, called Gatesgarth, 
 half a mile from the head of Kuttermere. This is, 
 indeed, a very tremendous scene; like all the valleys 
 Ave had yet found, it had a peculiar character: its 
 features were its own, it was not a vista, like the val- 
 ley of Watenlath, nor had it any of the sudden turns 
 ofthe valley of Borrowdale; but itwound slowly and 
 solemnly in one segment, beingat least half a quarter 
 of a mi'e from side to side, which distance is pretty 
 uniformly observed ; the rocky mountains which 
 environ it keeping their line with great exactness, at 
 least never breaking out into any violent projections. 
 ** The area of this valley is in general concave, the 
 sides almost perpendicular, composed of a kind of 
 broken craggy rock, ruins of which every where 
 strew the valley, and give it still more the idea of 
 desolation. The river also which runs through it is 
 as wild as the valley itself. It has no banks but the 
 fragments of rocks ; no bed but a channel composed 
 of rocky stratra; among which the water forces its 
 course. Its channel as well as its bank is composed 
 of loose stones and fragments, which break and divide 
 the stream into asuccession of wild impetuous eddies. 
 "A stream, whichjis the natural source of plenty, is 
 perhaps, when unaccompanied with verdure, the 
 strongest emblem of desolation ; it shews the spot to be 
 so barren that even the greatest source of abundance 
 can produce nothing. The whole valley, indeed, 
 joined in impressing the same ideas. Faithful nature 
 making in every part of her ample range, unremitting 
 eltorts to vegetate, could not here produce a single 
 germ, 
 ** As we proceeded the grandeur of the valley in-
 
 LAKES OF CUMBRRLAND, &C. 9i 
 
 creased. We had been prepared indeed to sec the 
 highest precipices, which the country produced ; such 
 fi preface is generally productive of disappointment, 
 l)ut on this occesion it did no injury ; the fancy had 
 still its scope. We found the mountains so over- 
 hung with clouds, that we could form little judg- 
 ment of their height: our guide told us they were 
 twice as high as we could see; which, however, we 
 did not believe from the observation we were able 
 to make, as the clouds at intervals floated past, and 
 discovered here and there the shadowy forms of the 
 rocky summits. A great height, however, they cer- 
 tainly were ; and the darkness in which they were 
 wrapped gave us a new illustration of the grandeur 
 of those ideas which arise from obscurity. The 
 middle of the valley is adorned as these valleys in 
 some parts often are, by a craggy hill; on the top 
 of which stands the fragment of a rock, that looked, in 
 Ossian's language, like i/ie stone of power, the rude 
 deity of desolation. The most eligible rout to But- 
 termere is considered to be by a ride up Newland 
 Vale, which brings you to Buttermere, where the 
 rich vale of Newland skirts a horrible precipice for 
 miles ; a chain of bold fells range themselves upon 
 its borders, clothed with a green vellum down to 
 the bottom, and agreeably relieve the eye, long 
 stretched in a painfully exclusive survey of the 
 Gouldscope, a stupendous ferruginous mountain on 
 the right. It was worked as a copper mine in thereign 
 of Elizabeth, and was formerly probably called Goid 
 Scoop* for it is said to have yielded some quantity of 
 gold to a party of Dutch miners, who came into Eng- 
 land with the Prince of Orange, and studiously con- 
 cealed their discovery by conversing only in their 
 vernacular tongue. About the year 17 15 the Mine 
 Acts were passed, and the Dutchmen dispossesed of 
 their treasure. It was again worked in 1780, but with 
 little encouragement. 
 
 But to return to our route; proceeding up Newland 
 Vale, eight miles brings us to Buttermere. On the 
 K 3
 
 94 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 \va\', the stranger will be most agreeably surprised by 
 some of the finest pastoral scenes that can be ima- 
 gined. The mountains are grand and sulilime and 
 void of projecting precipice or over-hanging clift'. 
 They differ much both in form and colour; large 
 hollow craters scooped in their bosoms, once the 
 seeming seats of raging liquid fire, now overfl(nv 
 with the purest water, that foams dow-) their craggy 
 sides; other woods adorn their base, and other lakes, 
 clear as the Derwent, lie at their feet. The softer 
 part ofthesescenesare verdant hills patched with wood, 
 spotted with rock, and afford pasture for herds and 
 flocks. Having turned the brow of the hill from 
 Swinside, the road continues winding through a 
 glade along the side of a rapid brook that tumbles 
 down a stony channel with water as clear as crystal. 
 
 Turning at the hedge-row tree, under Rawlingend, 
 we have a nev^ and pleasant view of the vale of Kes- 
 wick. The road now takes a ijentle ascent, and the 
 rivulet is heard murmuring below. At the upper 
 end of the cultivated part of the vale, a green pyra- 
 midal hill, dividedinto waving enclosures, looks down 
 upon Keswick, llie verdant hills on each side ter- 
 minate in rude awful mountains, towering to the 
 skies in a variety of grotesque forms, many torrents 
 foaming from their sides. Above Keskadale, which 
 are the last houses in Newland, few traces of human 
 industry appear: Mr. Gilpin calls this *' a dead 
 mountain recess, euvironedon every side, Except the 
 entrance, by smooth sloping hills which are adorned 
 neither by wood, rock, nor broken ground." The 
 vale now becomes a dell, the road a path. The low- 
 er parts afford pasture; the middle feed sheep, and 
 the upper regions, inaccessible to men, are abandon- 
 ed to the bird of Jove. In approaching the head 
 of Newland Hawse, on the left, a mountain of purple- 
 coloured rock presents numerous sr'^ping chasms, 
 excavated by torrents that fall in' ' asin formed 
 on the bosom of the mountain, ^-ence pre- 
 
 cipitating themselves over a wall i *hey be-
 
 LARES OF CUMBERLAND, ?^C. 9o 
 
 come a brook below. In front i? a vast rocky moun- 
 tain, the barrier of the dell that seems to oppose ail 
 further access: but Mr. Gilpin and his paily men- 
 tion their passage through the Hawse or .stopj)agey 
 which, though not so steep as the mountain which 
 led them to Wateniath, was of much longer con- 
 tinuance, and in some parts carried them very near 
 to the edges of (he precipice. Here, says Mr. West, 
 whoever would enjoy with ease and safety, alpine 
 views and pastoral scenes, in the sublime style, may 
 have them in this morning ride. 
 
 Here innocence may wander safe from foes. 
 And contemplation soar on seraph wings j 
 O solitude, the man who thee foregoes, 
 When lucre lures him, or ambition stings. 
 Shall never know the source whence real grandeur 
 springs. 
 
 As we proceed we see a new creation of moun- 
 tains as unlike those left behind as the Andes are to 
 the Alps. On the right, at the head of a deep gieen 
 hill, a naked furrowed mountain of an orange hue. 
 has a strange appearance amongst its verdant neigh- 
 bours, and in height rivals even Skiddaw itself. 
 Descending the track on the left, we behold a most 
 sing.ilar contrast: viz. four spiral towering heights, 
 dark, dun, and gloomy at noon day, rising immedi- 
 ately from the western extremity of the deep narrow- 
 dell, and hanging over Buttermere. The more sou- 
 thern is called by the dalesmen, [layrick, ficm its 
 form, the most poiined one, High Crag; the third, 
 Highstde, and the fourth, from its iron colour, Red 
 Pike. Between the second and third there is a 
 large crater, that appears to have been the focus of a 
 volcano at some dii^tant period of time, when the 
 cones were produced by explosion. xAt present, it 
 is the reservoir of water that feeds the roaring cata- 
 ract seen in the descent to Buttermere. Flere all is 
 barrenness, solitude, and silence, only interrupted by 
 the murmurs of a rill, running unseen in the narrow
 
 96 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 bottom of a deep dell. The smooth verdant sides of 
 the vast hills on the right are furrowed by the win- 
 ter rains. Some traces of industry, however, soon 
 obtrude themselves at the foot of the glen, and point 
 out our return to society, for we now approach the 
 village of Butlermere, situated betwixt the lakes. 
 The life of the inhabitants here before the lake were 
 so much frequented, was purely rustic i the women 
 spun woollen yarn, and some of the men were em- 
 ployed in the slate quarries. Above the village we 
 have the view of the upper lake, two miles in length, 
 and short of one in breadth, and terminated on the 
 western side by Red Pike. The shore on the east is 
 cultivated ; and a group of houses, called Gatesgarth, 
 forms the southern extremity under the most extra- 
 ordinary amphitheatre of rocks that ever were seen.' 
 Hooister Crag rises to an immense height, flanked 
 by two conical mountains, with Scaf on the western 
 side, and Fleetwith on the eastern. A hundred 
 torrents supply the ceaseless cataracts that thunder 
 down the rocks and form the lake or mere below. 
 
 The vale of Buttermere, which extends many 
 miles below the lake, is a wide variegated scene, full 
 of rising and falling grounds, woody in many parts ; 
 well inhabited in some; but fruitful and luxuriant 
 in all; the looks of the inhabitants are generally 
 marked with health and cheerfulness. 
 
 The best approach to Buttermere is from Scale 
 Hill; the mountains of this vale are nowhere so 
 impressive as from the bosom of Crumraock Water. 
 
 Scale Force 
 
 Is a fine water-fall about a mile and a half from 
 the village of Buttermere; which, being difficult of 
 access, is not visited so much as it deserves. The 
 fall is nearly two hundred feet, and it exceeds that of 
 Niagara about fifty feet. Scale Force is approached 
 by water across Crummotk, which is about half a 
 mile, or by land from Buttermere a mile and a half. 
 After cossing the Cocker, between Buttermere and
 
 LA^fES OFCtJMBERLAND, &C. 97 
 
 Crummock, and the road over a boggy pasture scat- 
 tered with stones, the sides of the mountain on the 
 left will be found, on approaching, to be covered 
 only with a few straggling trees inters[)ersed amongst 
 rocks. At length the way to Scale Force appears 
 between the mountains of Mellhreak and Blea Crag. 
 At the foot of (he latter a large fissure presents itself, 
 extendingan hundred feet into the mountain. Pro- 
 ceeding through this frightful avenue, not more than 
 four or five yards wide, and fenced by fserpendicular 
 rock, the force, or water-fall, presents itself in one 
 unbroken stream, with a roar that seems to shake the 
 mountain. The steep on each side is covered with 
 a variety of moss, fern, ash, and oak, which being 
 continually fed by the spray, flourish with the 
 most delightful verdure. Some of the trees, which 
 grow from the fissures near the top, throvv a shade 
 over the cavern below, of itself sufficiently gloomy. 
 The spray occasioned by the falling of the water fre- 
 quently rises in the form of a thick mist. This ca- 
 taract is seen in all its grandeur on the day after a 
 tieavy rain. The contention between rock and water 
 is then so loud as to alarm every stranger; but this 
 generally subsides in the course of a few dav9. 
 
 The history of Mary of iiuttermere, is sufficiently 
 known to excuse its re-appearance here. Mary and 
 her husband, a young man from the neighbourhood 
 of Carlisle, occupied the inn kept by her father at 
 Butlcrmere some years, from which they have lately 
 removed, and now live in another part of the country. 
 Hassness, erected by the lateThomas Benson, Esq.' 
 looks to the foot of the lake of Buttermcre, and is one 
 mi!e from the inn. Fleetwith and Green Gable may 
 be seen from the road to Massness. 
 
 The space between Buttermere and Crummock 
 Water, is not a mile, and consists of meadow and 
 pasture ground. 
 
 Crummock Water 
 Opens soon on your right, after you have the village 
 ot Buttermere, and pass through an open grove, A
 
 98 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 fine expanse of water sweeps awa^ to the right, undet- 
 a rocky promontory; Randon Knot, or Buttermere 
 Hawse. The road then winds round the rock, and 
 under a ruarged pyramidal craggy mountain. From 
 the crest of this rock, the whole extent of the lake is 
 discovered. On the western side, the mountains rise 
 immediately from the water's edge, bold and abrupt. 
 Justin front, between Blea Crag and Mellbreak, two 
 spiral hills, the hoarse resounding noise of a water- 
 fall is heard across the lake, concealed within the 
 bosom of the rock, through which it forces its way. 
 This lake is beautified with three small islands ; one 
 of rock, and the whole eastern shore is diversified 
 with bays, the banks with scattered trees, and a few 
 inclosures, terminated by a hanging wood. At the 
 foot of Crummock Water is a high crowned hill, 
 fringed with trees, and above it, on a cultivated slope, 
 is the chapelofLoweswater, surrounded with scatter- 
 ed farms. Behind all. Low Fell raises its verdant 
 front, a sweet contrast to its murky neighbours, and 
 a pleasing termination, either as seen from this 
 rock, or from the bosom of the lake. The chains of 
 pyramidal mountains on each side of this narrow 
 vale arc extiemely picturesque. They rise from dis- 
 tinct bases, and swell into the most grotesque forms 
 of serrated or broken rocks. The water of Crum- 
 mock is clear, but not so transparent as Derwent. The 
 out-let is at the north-east corner, by the river Cock- 
 er, over which is a handsome stone bridge of four 
 arches. This lake is four miles in length, and, in 
 some places, almost half a mile over. 
 
 A tthe noithern extremity of Crummock Water, 
 stretching to the westward, is Lowes Water. This 
 is scomthing more than a mile long, but scarcely 
 half a mile in bread:h. It is a matter of doubt, whe- 
 ther the eastern or western side of this little lake 
 should be traversed first. From the inn, (lown hill 
 to the bridge, and thence up hill to the Smithy, it is 
 three quarters of a mile to the church, an ancient 
 and picturesque building, in which Mary of Butter-
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, SiC. 99 
 
 mere was married. Near the church is a public house. 
 From the chapel, over the bridge, and by Kirk 
 head, it is half a mile to the common, -where, under 
 the rugged end of Mellbreak, Lowswater may be 
 seen at each end, bordered by delightful groves of 
 trees. Carling Knott, on the left, and Lo%v Fell, on 
 the right, sheUer it east and west. On the north 
 it is inclosed, aud the elevations are humble. Hence, 
 the way to the lake is by Barrgate, Steal Bank, Mill 
 Hill, High Nook, and Water Yeat, and a number of 
 farms and cottages. 
 
 I'heroadon the western sideof Lowswater is good, 
 in dry weather, and at all times much better than 
 that under Mellbreak. The road from the side of 
 the lake to the water-fall stream, is thence over fields, 
 leading up to some houses called Water End. From 
 this place it is a quarter of a mile to the common, and 
 half a mile to the joining of this road to that, by En- 
 iierdale and Colder bridge to Wast Water. But, in 
 this excursion round Lowswater, the road is on the 
 right from Water End to the public road, which on 
 an abrupt descent to the lake, by the lower houses at 
 Water end, has in view the rich landscape encircling 
 Lowswater. 
 
 Ennerdale Water 
 Is situated about four miles south of Lowswater, 
 but the most convenient way to Ennerdale is by a 
 circuitous route, by Lamplugh; and entering the 
 vale on the west of the lake, the only side not defend- 
 ed by mountains almost impassable. It is about two 
 miles and a half in length. Gillerthwaite is a narrow 
 tract of cultivated land, formed into a peninsula on 
 the lake, the verdure and fertility of this spot is 
 strongly contrasted by the barren mountains by which 
 it is environed. From Gillerthwaite the road leads 
 to How Hall, once a stately mansion, belonging to 
 the family of the Patricksons. This is a good station 
 for a general view of the lake and Vale of Ennerdale. 
 
 Sty Head, Honjster Crag, Wast Dale, the Pillar, 
 and Red Pike, compose the mountain scenery of this
 
 l/Ot EXCLRSIOXS TO THE 
 
 dreary region. Hoiiisler Cras^, not producing evert 
 a blade of gra$9, exhibits a most dreary aspect, and 
 the scenery around him is nothing but extreme 
 sterility and wildness. 
 
 In a ride from Keswick to Ennerdale, the moun- 
 tains, between whose bases an in egular avenue opens 
 for the curious tourist, are more variegated than those 
 in other regions of this little v.'orld of wonders. In 
 he course of ten minutes' travelling, he will behold 
 he most beautiful verdure climbing to the summit 
 f one, a bushy wood creeping to the top of another, 
 nd the most tremendous frasments of rock scowling 
 rom the front of a third. The pillar challenges par- 
 icular notice. 
 If a transient storm disturb or intercept the view, 
 hich frequently happens in the sereuest days of 
 ummer, the appearance is not only awful but pleas- 
 !ig;and the traveller will frequently /^fAo/a? a tem- 
 est \\ithoutfec/in(T it. The commotion is far above 
 lim ; and where he treads, all is calm, solemn, and 
 ilent. As he aiiproaches the vale of Ennerdale, in 
 vhose bosom one of the most enchanting of the 
 akes is seated, he vill find the rugged scenery of the 
 ountry gradually refining; and as he winds round 
 he foot of the Pillar, he will discover a vista, which 
 annot fail to strike the most indifferent observer 
 ith astonishment and pleasure. 
 Gillerthwaite is not, however, an island, though 
 'most as much contrasted in the landscape as land 
 ith water. It is a patch of enclosed and apparently 
 igh-cultivated ground, on a stony desert (-f immea- 
 irable extent; for the mountakis on each side of it 
 re the most barren in their aspect, and continue 
 lat appearance till their heads mix with the hori- 
 on. There are two decent farm-houses on the en- 
 losure, and, from the serpentine tract of the valley, 
 o other ha!>itation of man is visible 
 From Gillerthwaite, the lond already briefly de- 
 2ribed leads towards the pride of the valley, once 
 he seat of power and splendour, of which some
 
 LAKES OF CLMEERr,AND, &C. 101 
 
 faint remains are vet to be traced. The place here 
 alluded to is How-Hall, a mansion formerly of some 
 note. The estate, by purchase, came into pos* 
 session of the Senhou^es, and is now the property 
 of Joseph 'I'iffiti Senhouse, Esq. of Calder- Abbey. 
 — The following inscription, in Saxon characters, is 
 yet visible over the principal door of How-Hall: — 
 " This house was built ^ A. D. 1566, l)j/ lVi//ia?n Pa- 
 
 trichouy and Frances his tvife, daughter of Sir 
 
 Thof/ias Swi/nhurn, one of the privy counsellors to 
 
 King Henry VJJI." 
 
 Within these few years, several visitors of the lakes 
 extend their tour, by taking in Whitehaven, and 
 proceeding from thence, by Cleator and Kinnyside, 
 to Knnerdale Bridge, at which place guides can be 
 procured, to conduct them by the best route to En- 
 nerdale Broad- water; and, if they choose, from 
 thetice to Lowes-water, Buttcrmere, &c. — This part 
 of the journey (without which the tour is incomplete) 
 cannot, however, be performed in a carriage; bu-t a 
 ricle on horseback will amply recompense the trou- 
 ble, for the scenery is delightful, and the objects have 
 been pronounced (as well by many gentlemen of 
 taste as by artists of much celebrity) hi^ihly interest- 
 ing. Many such have ventured to j^rcfer these views 
 even to some of those which haveatiracied so much 
 attention from the patrons of thefinearts. 
 
 Certain it is, the approach to the lake of Enner- 
 dale, to Lowes-water, and to Buttermere, is from no 
 other quarter so magnificent and captivating. The 
 lake of Enncrdale a|)pears in view. 'I'o the left, a 
 majestic wood, rising fjradually up the side of Cold-» 
 Eell from the opposite shore of the water, imparts the 
 most giaceful ornament to the entrance into a region 
 perfectly different from the last. A short turn to 
 the right lavs the whole lake and valley open to the 
 view, and Herd-House presents his tawny front, as 
 regent ot the scene. The furniture of the lake (if 
 the e\ pression may be allowed) is totally changed : on 
 the traveller's side (the eastj the farms arc stretched 
 
 L
 
 102 EXCLRSIONS TO THE 
 
 out^ and exhibit a verdure seldom exceeded in the 
 most fertile parts of this kingdom; and in a compass 
 of a few mile?, the number of small tenements seem 
 to say, with Goldsmith, 
 " Here every rood of ground maintains its man." 
 
 On the opposite shore of this little ocean (which 
 is frequently seen vexed \vith liltle storms of short 
 duration) the mountain towers with great dignity; 
 neither terrible nor inviting in its aspect, but suited 
 to the serenity of the spot, v.hich is calculated to in- 
 spire sentiments at once sublime and cheerful. 
 
 Wast Water lies about five miles' to the south of 
 Buttermere, and may be visited without approaching 
 the latter place. 
 
 The road to this lake from Keswick, through Bor- 
 rowdale, leads by Sty Head. The descent from Sty 
 to Wastdale is much easier, and perhaps more amus- 
 ing than the ascent. As a horse-road, this way to 
 Wastdale Head, Mr. Green thinks the grandest 
 among tlie lakes. *'The road is well defined, gene- 
 rally well made, and kept in as good repair as the 
 extraordinary declivity will adniit of. It is full of 
 sharp turns and bends, which, though lenalhening 
 the journey, renders it much easier to travel than if 
 carried forward in astraightcr line. From the top of 
 the Sty is seen the peaceful vale of Wastdale, and in 
 the distance Yewbarrow, The road is down the side of 
 Great Gable, whose surface is one series of huce 
 projecting rocks. On the left, over the deep ravine 
 below the road, in towering sublimity, appear Great 
 End and the Pikes. Nearer the bottom of the vale 
 are T.ingmell Crags. 
 
 Wastdale Head is a narrow but fruitful vale ; 
 all its inhabitants are shepherds, and live at the feet 
 of the most stupendous mountains. Of six families 
 at Wastdale, when Mr. Green visited it, three of 
 them were landholders. There was no mill, public- 
 house, shop or tradesman in the valley, notwithstand- 
 ing its distance, fifteen miles from Egremont or Kes- 
 wick,
 
 LAKPF OF CUMBERLAND, aC. 103 
 
 Wast Water has in its composition more of the 
 sublime than the rest of the English lakes, and each of 
 the mountains that enclose it has a distinct and cha- 
 racteristic appearance/ Near the head of the lake, 
 at the end of Lingmell, Scawfell gradually makes 
 its appearance, and Mickledoor, with its awful mouth, 
 is succeeded by the Pikes. 
 
 Into Wastdale are three horse-roads, viz. over the 
 Sty from Borrowdale, a short cut over a ridge from 
 Scawfell, by Burnmoor Tarn, the road from which 
 descending by the head of Wastdale-water is much 
 the best approach. From Burnmoor we may proceed 
 to Ravenglass, the peculiar situation of which, as to 
 water, is worthy of notice. 
 
 Some wit in the Lonsdale Magazine, taking ad- 
 vantage of the local situation of Ravenglass, and its 
 proximity to the Mite, the £5^, the Irk, and the sea, 
 has thus given vent to his satirical humour. 
 
 Every place has something good, 
 Flowery lane or coppice wood. 
 Stately grove or glade of glass. 
 Every place hut Ravenglass, 
 
 Twice a day the Little Mite 
 Swells itself to such a height. 
 That not a living soul can pass 
 From Egremont to Ravenglass, 
 
 Then the Esk comes rolling down, 
 Threat'ning every one to drown. 
 As from Wabbetlixvaite they pass. 
 Across the Ford to Ravenglass, 
 
 The Irt to seaward cannot creep 
 Till at the town it had a peep. 
 And joins the Mite, and thus they pass 
 Right ill front of Ravenglass. 
 
 Mountains come so near the sea. 
 Scarce permitting house or tree. 
 And Sandhills brown make up the mass 
 Of prospects had at Bavenglass. 
 L ^2
 
 104 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 An elegant writer adverting to the situation of 
 Stybarrow Crag, with the deep waters of Ulswater 
 on the one hand, and " the mighty Helvellyn" on 
 the other, observes, we might easily suppose these 
 had given rise to the following description, by Sir 
 Walter Scott, which certainly pourtrays with great 
 accuracy this celebrated pass. 
 
 At length they came where stern and steep 
 The hills sink down upon the deep. 
 Here, Vennachar in silver flows, 
 There, ridge on ridge Benledi rose; 
 Ever the hollow path twined on 
 Beneath steep bank and threat*ning stone: 
 An hundred men might hold the post 
 With hardihood against an host. 
 The rugged mountain's scanty cloak 
 Was dwarfish shrubs of ash and oak ; 
 With shingles bare and cliffs between. 
 And patches bright of bracken green. 
 And heather black that wav'd so high 
 It held the copse in rivalry. 
 But where the lake slept deep and still. 
 Dark osiers fring'd the swamp and hill. 
 And oft both path and hill were torn 
 Where wintry torrent down had borne 
 And heap'd upon the cumber'd land 
 Its wreck of gravel, rocks, and sand. 
 From the difficulty of access, excepting on the 
 side of Egremont, VVastdale Lake and Village are 
 seldom visited. Once seen, however, these interest- 
 ing objects will amply compensate the traveller for 
 his pains. "Here every thing," Dr. Robinson observes, 
 •'is rural, and appears in the true style of pastoral 
 simplicity. 
 
 "The Screes, a very high ridge of mountains, rim 
 along the eastern side of the lake, and the loose 
 rocks on its sides aie in almost continual motion, 
 falling in shiveis into the water. In Lower Wastdale 
 is a public house. Hospitality is the characteristic 
 of the inhabitantsof this secluded valley."
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 105 
 
 The lake here is three miles in length, and in 
 the widest part about three quarters of a mile ia 
 breadth. The scenery of this lake has been pour- 
 trayed with equal beauty and accuracy by a modern 
 poet: — 
 
 "There is a lake hid far among tlie hills. 
 That raves around the throne of solitude. 
 Not fed by gentle streams or playful rills. 
 But headlong cataract or rushing flood. 
 There gleam no lovely hues of hanging wood. 
 No spot of sunshine lights her sullen side, 
 For horror shaped the wild in wrathful mood. 
 And o'er the tempest heaved the mountain's pride." 
 TVilsoris Isle of Palms. 
 If, however, you should decline visiting Wast 
 Water, which is generally done, after exploring the 
 beauties of Buttermere and Crummock Water, you 
 may extend your researches to the vale of Lorton ; 
 visiting or not, as may be convenient, Lowes Watei 
 in the way. Proceeding from Brackenthwaite, a 
 guide may be hired at the commodious Inn at Scale 
 Hill, to the summit of the Craggy height, about 
 half a mile from it, whence the view is rich. On 
 one side is spread a bird's eye landscape of immense 
 extent, terminated by the Vale of Lorton, which 
 is watered by the river Cocker. Exactly over head, 
 Grasmere rears its frowning aspect ; and Crummock 
 Water appears on the right, in an advantageous 
 point of view. Mr. Gilpin observes of the Vale of 
 Lorton, here *• all is simplicity and repose.' Nature 
 in this spot lays totally aside her majestic frown, 
 and wears only a lovely smile." The Vale of Lor- 
 ton running a considerable way between mountains 
 at about a mile distant, these are near enough to 
 screen it from the storm, and yet not so impending 
 as to exclude the sun. A bright stream which pours 
 along a rocky channel, ornaments this vale, and 
 sparkles down in numerous little cascades. Its banks 
 are adorned with wood, and varied by different ob- 
 jects 5 a bridge, a mill, a hamletj a glade overhung 
 L 3
 
 Miles. 
 
 Miles, 
 
 . 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 , 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 . 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 . 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 . 
 
 8 
 
 ■23 
 
 . 
 
 6 
 
 29 
 
 of Eslhwaite 
 
 pass in 
 
 g High 
 
 "iOo EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 with wood, or some little sweet recess, or natural 
 vista. The vale is about two miles and a half in 
 length. 
 
 EXCURSION XII. 
 
 From Ambleside. . 
 
 Lake of Windermere . 
 
 Brathay Bridge 
 
 Higli Wray: .... 
 
 Ferry House 
 
 Newby Bridge 
 
 Bowness .... 
 
 Ambleside ; . 
 
 The eastern or the western side 
 Water may be pursued instead of 
 Wray and the Ferry House. This will cause litTle 
 difference in the distance j but is recommended 
 only as a variety to those who may have befoie seen 
 the northern half of the Lancashire side of Win- 
 dermere. 
 
 Windermere is usually crossed at the Ferry House 
 in all carriage excursions, where it is intended to be 
 viewed on both sides on the same day, unless it is 
 in an excursion round the lake, a distance of about 
 29 miles. The best way of pursuing this journey is 
 to pass down the wcstein side of the lake by Brathay 
 Bridge according to the route. • 
 
 Win DERM TRE. 
 
 Windermere is the larijest lake in England, being 
 twelve miles long ; it is, towards the head, consider- 
 ably more than a mile broad; and between this and 
 the islands, about halfway down the water, it is sel- 
 dom less than a mile, Imt narrows gradually from the 
 islands to Newby Bridge at the foot of the Lake. 
 This water may be conveniently navigated from all 
 the Inns round it, boats being moored at proper dis- 
 tances. Some make a morning's aquatic excursion 
 from Ambleside to the Ferry House, the Station, the 
 great or Curwen Island, and sometimes to Bowness.
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, «&C. 307 
 
 To sec all these places to advantaij';, will take u|) 
 nearly a day. Such as like boating, and who remain 
 at an Inn or a lodging for any time, may he greatly 
 pleased with the little excursions in their ditTerent 
 neii;hl)ourhoods. The views both from land and 
 water have each a peculiar attraction. Open car- 
 riages are geneially preferred ; for if the weather be 
 fine, the party by changing places mav see the sur- 
 rounding objects in all directions. The river Bra- 
 thay, after making several winding sweeps and ex- 
 quisite openings to the country, empties itself into 
 the lake. Here rocks splendidly crowned with trees, 
 rise beautifully out of the water, and make excellent 
 combinations with the craL'gy steeps of Loughrigg 
 Fell, the mountains of Ambleside and llydal. The 
 finest water view from the head of the lake is about 
 half a mile south of the Brathay's junction with the 
 lake : here, as from one station on the water, are 
 seen to the greatest advantage. Little and Great 
 Langdale, Loughrigg, Rydai, Ambleside, and Trout- 
 beck ; the high grounds of Applethwaite, Orrest, 
 Bowness, Cartmel Fell, aad the lands above Wray. 
 Dove Nest is a delightful seat, greatly improved by 
 Mr. Redder, and commands a very interesting view 
 down Windermere. 
 
 The lands on the immediate borders of Winder- 
 mere are fertile, and richly decorated with a profu- 
 sion of fine trees and shrubs in every imaginable 
 and tasteful variety. Windermere is rich in its 
 prospects, having several distinctly featured distan- 
 ces ; first, the Longdale Pikes; the views of the 
 island down the lakes; the head of the lake having 
 the great and lesser islands in the middle, the Rydal 
 mountains, &c. in the extreme distance; the view 
 from the Station-house, looking over the great 
 island, having Rayri^g and the Old and New Cal- 
 garth on the banks'of the lake, with the Applethwaite 
 andCalgarth mountains in the furthestdistance; and 
 lastly, the Rydal and Ambleside mountains in an en- 
 tire new combination, different from any observed be
 
 103 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 tween Belle Grange and High VVray. Windermere 
 is usually crossed at the Ferry-house in all carriage 
 excursions; that round the lake makes a circuit of 
 about 29 miles. On the opposite shore, the village 
 of High VVray, and the buildings at Brathay and 
 Clappersgate, give animation to the scenery. The 
 pikes of Langdale, and the mountains of Eskdale, 
 Wastdale, and Borrowdale, finish this splendid ex- 
 hibition. Bowfell is the principal. 
 
 Windermere has been justly described, as preserv- 
 ing the dignity of its character under all circumstan- 
 ces, being seldom depressed below, and as seldom 
 elevated above its ordinary level. But though not 
 perceptibly swollen by rains, it is often agitated by 
 winds and sudden squalls, thus emulating the. gran- 
 deur of a disturbed ocean. Thus navigators are 
 \varned against every appearance of a tendency to 
 stormy weather. Besides trout, perch, and pike, char 
 abounds here, the case char and the gelt char ; the 
 first is so called because it has not spawned the pre- 
 ceding season, and is thought more delicate. The 
 char here are nearly twice as large as the herring, 
 and in form resemble the trout, though of a much 
 more delicate flavour. Wild fowl haunt the banks 
 of Windermere, and appear sometimes sitting in 
 black groupes on the water; or they rise and sink 
 with the waves. At other times they fly round the 
 lake in files, or settle upon some bank or station. 
 
 This lake has seventeen islands. Lady Holm, near 
 the largest of them, called Great Holm, was so named 
 from the Virgin, who had formerly a Chapel or 
 Oratory upon it. On the road from Kendal to the 
 Great Boat House, might lately have been seen the 
 ruins of the Holy Cross, where Pilgrims used to offer 
 up their devotions. Two other of these islands are 
 named from the lily of the valley which grows upon 
 them in profusion. To Lowoodlnn, the road continues 
 almost on a level with the lake, more than a mile 
 from the head of Windermere. This is a pleasant 
 halting place, and the fields above it, and the lane
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, cVc. 109 
 
 that leads to 'I'routbeck, present beautiful views. 
 From this place and from Ambleside, rides may be 
 taken in numerous directions, and the interesting 
 walks are inexhaustible. 
 
 A late tourist makes the following reflections upon 
 a tour round Windermere. 1 left Kendal on the loth 
 July, in company with two learned and agreeable 
 friends. Our prime intention was to visit Winder- 
 mere — the Queen of the Lakes. As the morning 
 was invitingly fine, we determined to accept the op- 
 portunity of exercising our frames, and gratifying- 
 cur minds with what the pleasing walk to Bowness 
 could afford us. Agriculturesmiled around us; and 
 Plenty was gathering into her lap the earliest of the 
 summer's produce. The town had poured out its 
 swarms into the environs to hive within it the sur- 
 I'ounding stores; and the country with its tawny 
 sons and daughters of Industry was universally en- 
 gaged in the same act of toilsome labour. The eye 
 could wander around in no direction, but it there 
 met with either the traces, or the fruits of their sa- 
 lutary toil. Happy, thought I, are ye, ye rustics, in a 
 state of such apparently blissful simplicity. VV^hen 
 analmost diurnal variety of pursuits leads you forth 
 from your cots of content — in the salubrious hour of 
 morning — ere the sun has yet burst upon the eastern 
 horizon! When the sparkling dew-drojis glitter 
 around you, and you seem to trample a myriad of 
 diamonds beneath your feet! When the air is im- 
 pregnated with the odorous scents of a thousand 
 nectareous flowers — when it wafts their grateful ef- 
 fluvia around you, and you inhale the pure breath of 
 more than ambrosial sweetness ! WMien the gentle 
 refreshing breeze cools your blood in the sultry hour 
 of noon-tide! When the mild zephyrs fan your 
 bodies parched by the action of post-meridian sun- 
 beams; and charged with health collected beyond 
 the Atlantic, when they wing their way to shed its 
 balmy "influence in reviving gales upon you! Ves, 
 happy are ye, ye rustics— happy indeed—if happ[-
 
 110 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 ness consist in externals, or if happiness consist 
 most in a variety of pursuits ! 
 
 The rustic and his hay-maicing; we soon left prin- 
 cipally behind us. The geological aspect of the 
 country changed. The transition rock of stratifi- 
 ed lime-stone, which abounds near the town and in 
 the vicinity, gave way to the primary or blue schist 
 of a nearly perpendicular lamellar strata. Nothing 
 but angular elevations of this rock now characteri- 
 zed the scene both on hill and in dale; so that it 
 appeared as if we had stepped out of Arabia ye//j? 
 into Arabia petrcea. Our contemplations were im- 
 perceptibly carried away with this change, and from 
 the regular and pleasing we scanned the irregular 
 and frowning. What impressions were now stamp- 
 ed on our minds ! What ideas now excited ! Such, 
 as it be may supposed, would have laid eternally dor- 
 mant within us, had they not been roused by objects 
 so novel to us in the extreme! Oh how man enjoys 
 a continually varying scene! How it delights his 
 senses — how it entertains and edifies his mind — espe- 
 cially, when with a philosophic and religious eye he 
 views the created objects around him, and then, 
 from the ecstacies of his soul, silently breathes out 
 aspirations of wonder and praise to creation's God. 
 
 The exhaling powers of the sun's caloric rendered 
 it necessary for us to apply frequently to the houses 
 upon the road, for fluids to quench our thirst, and 
 supply the respective glands with their requisites for 
 action. The ahnost artless simplicity, which chiefly 
 predominated in the expression of most of the pea- 
 sants' countenances, recommended them to our no- 
 tice, and particularly the unmerited respect which 
 they paid us. I sat mostly in silence, with my eyes 
 intt-nt upon their countenances, while my friends 
 conversed with them ; and I must say that I felt 
 myself much interested, both in their looks and in 
 their expressions. How natural and how powerful 
 were most of their attitudes! How strong and ener*
 
 LAKES OF CLMBERLAND, &C HI 
 
 getic their diction! Nature, uninfluenced by the 
 prejudices of education, sat dictator in their hearts. 
 Their language was thence void of ornament-— shall 
 1 say, and altogether void of art too ? No, even here 
 Art has its abode. It is a constituent of our corrupt 
 nature : and will be ever found, more or less, to per- 
 vade the poor man in his cot, as well as the rich man 
 in his mansion. Learning and influence cannot 
 produce it — they can only extend and modify its 
 action. For a continued observation of human na- 
 ture in all the circles of life, tends to prove, that 
 artifice lurks within us, and operates generally in the 
 proportion, in which opportunity and outward cir- 
 cumstances present it with a medium for action. 
 
 At length we g'\ined the elevation on the road 
 which commands the first prospect of the lake. 
 Our minds had hitherto been, as we thought, suffi- 
 ciently engaged — yet their engagements now at once 
 became more particular and more general — more 
 particular, in noticing the peculiar effects of detach- 
 ed j)ortions of the scene — aiid more general, in observ- 
 ing the grand novel contrast of the varied whole. The 
 dim undulating outline of the distant mountains 
 shooting far into the western horizon — th'.- bleak in- 
 hospitable aspects of those intervening, increasini^ 
 their cliffy summits in prv;portion to their near ap- 
 proach — and the long extended lake stretching its 
 prostrate length almost like a sea before us, were such 
 striking characteristics as the eye seldom witnesses. 
 It was here where I first obtained some idea of the 
 wild majesty, the noble and \ast sublimity of nature 
 — here, where 1 first couKI bring into one natural 
 scope, the combined grandeur and delectability of 
 Swiss and Italian scene*. 
 
 V^'e had scarcely arrived at Bowness, ere we order- 
 ed a boat and launched out into this miniature Me- 
 diterranean. The sun was just descending to the 
 verge of the opposing mountains as we set sail j and 
 that still calmness which in fine weather generally
 
 112 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 commences upon his departure, had already smooth- 
 ed the surface of the deep, and given a glorious re- 
 flection to the limpid mirror beneath us. We seem- 
 ed to float in the middle space of ether — before us 
 were two suns upon their horizons, both sinking in 
 the mild refulgence of their dejjarting splendour 
 into the bosom of another hemisphere : and beneath 
 and above them two similar concave vaults stretch- 
 ing their azure projections far behind us. From 
 these the philosopher with his quadrant might have 
 found the just power of the refraction of the water. 
 Conjecture told us that the heii^ht of the mountains, 
 and the distance of other objects appeared diminish- 
 ed one third ; but, as we were uol professed philoso- 
 phers, conjecture might deceive us, SufBceit how- 
 ever to say, that our theoretical notions of optics 
 were not impaired by our observations, but rather 
 strengthened. The reason perhaps too is obvious— 
 " excercitatio optimus est magister." 
 
 We landed at the Ferry Inn and advanced to the 
 Station. We soon anived at a super!) gate and en- 
 trance, set, as I thought, in mock majcsry, at the foot 
 of an inaccessible rock, and wood impervious. But 
 upon gaining admission, how gieat was my surprise, 
 when it unfolded unto me a paradise decorated with 
 all the garden-blooms of an Eden ! 1 halted, and 
 castmyeyes around this little enchanting spot. It 
 Avas wholly the work of Art — the hand-maid to Na- 
 ture, purposely designed to relieve the attention with 
 the utmost efforts of her skill, till she ushered us 
 into a scene which sets the very genius of description 
 at defiance. Ihe eflect of the scene, when viewed 
 through these, was such as the finest imauination 
 might perhaps in some propitious moment produce. 
 I now sat down in the front window, and threw up 
 the sash. A number of boats was shootins along the 
 lake in different directions. The uncommon still- 
 ness of the evening tendered every sound accessible 
 to the ear. The dashing of the oars, softened by
 
 LAKES OF CUMDERLAND, &C. 1 f3 
 
 their distance, and the alternate blasts of a shiil- 
 toued trumpet, niini^hng occasionally into a wild har- 
 mony, had something of a soothing influence in them, 
 which corresponded with the prevailing taste ot' our 
 minds. We long listened to them with pleasure, till 
 they reached their respective harbours. 
 
 Twilight had now begun to overspread the hea- 
 vens with her dusky mantle: and we meditated our 
 return. All the crannies of the cliff upon which the 
 station is erected, support some shrub, either indige- 
 nous or exotic. The common laurel here vci^etates 
 surprisingly: and the different s[)ccies of the rose 
 bloom in all their glory; while lichens of different 
 habits clothe the very locks. But we had no time 
 to botanize; indeed, our minds were not in a state 
 suited to that rational pursuit. The whole garb of 
 Nature, and her bold structure, were more the objects 
 of our present attenticn than the analytical parts of 
 her contexture or superficial conformation. We 
 dared to embrace more of her wonders than those 
 concentrated in a single plant or mineral — westretch- 
 ed out our minds to the contemplation of myriads. 
 Oh Nature — thou art surely alike formed for the 
 corporeal and mental advantage of man ! One spark 
 of thy inspiration is more expansive to the soul, 
 than all those which the world can strike beside! 
 
 We resumed our seats in tlie boat and set sail. 
 Distant objects were now but imperceptibly seen. 
 Every recreating party had retired, and we weie left 
 alone on the bosom of the lake. Darkness was gra- 
 dually gathering around us, and a universal " ex- 
 pressive silence" was commencing, as if creation's self 
 was retiring to rest. No picturesque object now 
 entertained the eye, save the still reflecting lake 
 faintly dispersing the rays which fell upon its surface 
 from the languishing western horizon. Twas a 
 time fitted for meditation. My two friends landed 
 at the nearest point ; and I remained in the boat — • 
 a silent passenger. I gave way to a train of reflec- 
 tions, such as the previous impressions on my ind 
 
 M
 
 114 EXCUnsiONS TO THE 
 
 and the surrounding solemnity required; in the 
 midst of which I arrived at Bowness, where I waited 
 until my fiiends came up. 
 
 Passing Orrest, Elleray is seen, and the Bowness 
 road to Ambleside from the bridi^e, in the same 
 direction, we observe the avenue to Calgarth Park, 
 the seat of the late Bishop of Llandaff. 
 
 Calgarth House is a heavy edifice, in a marshy 
 bottom, a station so unhappily selected as to excl ude 
 every interesting view of the enchanting scenery 
 that surrounds it. This perhaps may account for 
 the general silence of tourists with respect to this 
 mansion. 
 
 Windermere on this side communicates with two 
 Literal valleys — Troutbeck and that of Hawkshead. 
 The latter is l)est seen from the approach from the 
 Ferry over Windermere. At Lowood Inn a small 
 oanuon has long been kept to gratify the curious 
 with those remarkable leverberations of sound which 
 follow the report of a gun. 
 
 " Here oft the cannon's roar 
 
 - Bursts from the bosom of the hollow shore ; 
 The dire explosion the whole concave fills, 
 And shakes the firm foundation of the hills. 
 Now pausing deep, now bellowing" from afar, 
 Now rages near the elemental war: 
 Affrighted Echo opens all her cells. 
 With gather'd strength the posting clamour swells, 
 (^heck'd or impell'd, and varying in its course. 
 It slumbers — now awakes with double force, 
 Searching the straight and crooked hill and dale. 
 Sinks in the breeze and rises in the gale: 
 Chorus of earth and sky! the mountains sing. 
 And Heavtii s own thunder thro' the valleys ringy 
 
 After quitting Lowood Inn, the traveller mav 
 leave the margin of the water, and pass through 
 groves and secluded farms without seeing the w.iter 
 again till he arrives opposite Calgarth ; about half a 
 mile further from which is a prospect of Winder-
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, i&C. llo 
 
 mere, and the principal part of its islands. The 
 sii! rouiiding mountains, though high, are inferior to 
 those we have described on the confines of the lakes, 
 and sU)pe to the \vater in an irreuular manner. 
 About a mile from Bowness is Rayrigg, a little vil- 
 laiic, with Rayrigg Mall, the scat of the Reverend 
 J Fleming. 
 
 The picturesque beauties of Windermere have 
 been thus described by Mr. Hutchinson : — 
 
 " The hills seen around the lake, except those 
 above Ambleside, are humble, the margin of the 
 water is irregular and indented, and every wheie 
 co{{. posed of cultivated lands, woods, and pastures, 
 which descend with an easy fall down to the lake, 
 forming a multitude of bays and promontories, and 
 giving it the appearance of a large river; in the nar- 
 rowest parts nf)t unlike the Thames below Rich- 
 mond. On that part where the Furness Fell forms 
 the shore, the scene is more rude and romantic. 
 The western side of this lake is in Lancashire, the 
 eastern in Westmorland. As we sailed down the 
 lake, we had two views which comprehended all 
 the beauties of the lake ; we rested upon the oars 
 in a situation where, looking down the lake, we took 
 into the prospect the greatest extent of water ; the 
 shore was indented by woody promontories, which 
 shot into the lake on each side to a considerable 
 distance, to the right, were the hills of Furness 
 Fell, which are the highest that arise immediately 
 from the water, consisting chiefly of rocks, which, 
 though not rugged and deformed, have their pecu- 
 liar beauty, being scattered over with trees and 
 shrubs, each growing separate and distant ; the 
 brow of this rock overlooks a pretty peninsula, on 
 which the ferry-boat house stands, concealing its 
 white front in a grove of sycamores. Whilst we 
 were looking out on it, the boat was upon its way, 
 with several horse passengers, which greatly graced 
 the scene. To the left a small island of a circular 
 form, covered with a thicket of birch and ash wood j 
 M 2
 
 116 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 beyond which the hills that arose from the lake in 
 gentle ascents to the right, were covered with rich 
 iierbaue and irregular groves ; on the left side of 
 the lake, enclosures of meadow, sweejDing gently 
 away from the water, lay bounded by a vast tract 
 of woods, and overtopped with hills of moorish 
 2:round and heath; the most distant heights, which 
 formed the back-ground, were fringed with groves, 
 over which they lifted their brown eminences in 
 various shapes. Upwards on the lake we looked 
 on a large island of about SO acres of meagre pas- 
 ture ground, in an irregular oblong figure; here 
 and there some mis-shapen oak-trees bend their 
 crooked branches on the sandy brinks, and one little 
 grove of sycamores shelters a cottage." 
 
 Mr. Wordsworth thus poignantly describes the al- 
 terations, called improvements^ that have been re- 
 cently made npon this island -. — ► 
 
 " The venerable wood that had grown for centu- 
 ries round the small house called St. Herbert's Her- 
 mitage, had long been felled by its native proprietor, 
 and the whole island planted anew with Scotch firs, 
 a melancholy phalanx, defying the power of the 
 winds, and disregarding the regret of the spectator, 
 who might otherwise have cheated himself into 
 a belief that some of the decayed remains of these 
 oaks, the place of which was in this manner usurped, 
 had been planted by the hermit's own hand, '['his 
 sainted spof, however, has sustained comparatively 
 little injury. At the bidding of an alien impro- 
 ver, the Herd's Cottage, upon Vicar's Island, in 
 the same lake, with its embowering sycamores 
 and cattle-shed, disappeared fiom the corner where 
 they stood, and right in the middle, and upon the 
 precise point of the island's highest elevation, rose a 
 tall square habitation, with four sdes, ex])osed like 
 an astronomer's observatory, or a warren house, 
 reared uj^on an eminence for the detection of de- 
 predator? ; or like the Temple of .Eolus, where all 
 the winds nay him obedience. Round this novel
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C, 117 
 
 structure, but at a respectful distance, platoons of firs 
 were planted, as if to protect their commander when 
 -vveather and time should somewhat have shattered 
 his strength. Within the narrow limits of this island 
 were typified also the state and strength of a king- 
 dom and its religion, as it had been and was ; for 
 neither was the Druidical circle uncreated, nor the 
 church of the present establishment; nor the stately 
 pier, emblem of commerce and navigation : nor the 
 fort to deal out thunder upon the approaching in- 
 vader. The taste of a succeeding proprietor recti- 
 fied the mistakes, as far as practicable, and has rid- 
 ded the spot of all its puerilities. 'I he church hav- 
 ing been docked of its steeple, is applied both osten- 
 sibly and really to the jiurpo-e for which the body of 
 the pile was originally erected, namely, a boat- 
 house. The fort is demolished, and without indig- 
 nation on the part of the Druid-;, who officiated at 
 the circle upon the opposite hill, the mimic arrange- 
 ment of stones, with its sanctum sa/icturia/i, has 
 been swept away." 
 
 But to return to Mr. Hutchinson : — 
 ** Whilst I view the lake upwards, with its envi- 
 rons, the beautiful crags of Furness Fell, over which 
 trees, dispersed in an agreeable wilderness, form the 
 front ground on the left, and, by their projection, 
 cover the hills, vvhich are further advanced towards 
 the head of the lake, which makes a curve bearing 
 from the eye; three small woody islands, of a fine 
 circular figure, swelling to a crown in their centres, 
 arise fiom out of the lake; and, with the deep ver- 
 dure of their trees, give an agreeable tint to the ex- 
 panse of water, in length six miles, and nearly a mile 
 in breadth, shining and bright as a mirror; we view- 
 ed the agreeable variety of the adjacent country. 
 To the right, woodlands and meadows, in many 
 little peninsulas and promontories, descended with 
 easy slopes to the brink of the lake, where Bowness 
 Church, and its cottages, arose above the trees ; 
 beyond whiehlay the seat of Fletcher FJeming, Esq. 
 M 3
 
 Its EXCURSrONS TO THE 
 
 situate on the brink of the lake, and covered on 
 <^very side with rich woodland; furtlier were cots 
 and villages dis|3ersed on the risinij ground : in front 
 stood Ambleside, and at the opening of the deep 
 vale of Rydal, the house of Sir Michael le Fleming, 
 shielded on cither hand by a v/ing of hanging fo- 
 icsts, climbing up the steeps of tl-e mountains. 
 The nearest back-ground to the right is composed 
 of an eniinence called Orrest-head, rising gradually 
 to a point, and cultivated to its crown, which sweet 
 mount is contrasted by the vicinage of the crags of 
 Briscot-hoe, which overtop the e:xtensive wood- 
 lands of Sir M. le Fleming; then Troutbeck Parks 
 arise, where the hills begin to increase in magnitude, 
 and form the range of mountains which are extend- 
 ed to Keswick, diversified with pasturage, dells, and 
 cliff; looking over, with Langdon Pikes, three 
 mountains, rising in perfect cones, extending their 
 heads, surmounted only by the rocky and barren 
 brow of Kirkstone Fell, whose cliffs overlook the 
 whole. 
 
 "The lake of Windermere differs very much from 
 those of Ulswater and Keswick. Here almost every 
 object in view, on the whole lake, confesses cultiva- 
 tion. The islands are numerous, but small and 
 woody, and rather bear a resemblance to the artifi- 
 cial circles raised on gentlemen's ponds for their 
 swans. 
 
 ** I'he greatest depth of Windermere, we were 
 told, was not more than forty fathoms. The water 
 abounds in pike, trout, char, eels, and perch. The 
 lake, whilst we visited it, was covered with the boats 
 of fishing parties ; it being customary for the country 
 people, after their harvest, to make their days of ju- 
 bilee in that diversion.'' 
 
 Bowness, on the eastern side of the lake, is the 
 great mart for fish and charcoal, commodities largely 
 imported here, and carried inland. Its harbour is 
 crowded with different vessels, and some of them are 
 used as pleasure boats upon the lake. From an emi-
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 119 
 
 nence above Bowness, this, and all its accoinpaiii- 
 ments, appear in all their giandeur. " Were 1 your 
 guide," said Mr. Young, "I would conduct you be- 
 hind a small hill, that you might come at once upon 
 the view, when you will he struck with astonishment 
 at the prospect spread beneath your feet. You look 
 down on a noble winding valley, of about twelve 
 miles long, every where inclosed with grounds ris- 
 ing in a very bold and various manner j in some 
 places bulging into mountains, abrupt, wild, and 
 uncultivated; in others break iuii[ into rocks, craguy, 
 pointed, and irregular. Hereri.>>ing into hills cover- 
 ed with the nol)iest woods, ])reseniing a gloomy 
 brownness of shade, almost from the clouds to the 
 reflection ofthe trees in the limpid waterof the lake 
 they so l)eautifully skirt; there waving in slopes 
 of cultivated inclosures, adorned in the sweetest 
 manner with every object that can give variety to 
 art, or elegance to nature ; trees, woods, villages, 
 and farms, scattered with picturesque confusion, and 
 waving to the eye in the most romantic landscapes 
 that nature can exhibit. 
 
 When shades of night are hast'ning down, 
 To steep in blue the mountains brown, 
 'I'he sky is cloudless and serene. 
 The winds are pinion'd; and the scene 
 So beautiful, so wild, so sweet, 
 VV here forests, fields, and waters meet, 
 Is bathed in such delicious hues. 
 Beneath the twilight's failing hues. 
 That man afar from sorrow's sphere. 
 Might muse away his anguish here ; 
 Whilst o'er his erring thoughts subdued, 
 That quiet — tranquillizing mood. 
 That tone of harmony, would steal. 
 Which poets feign, and angels feel. 
 
 Bovvness is six miles from Ambleside : the country 
 may be seen to great advantage from an open car- 
 riage, from this place to Newby Bridge, which lies at
 
 1'20 EXCURSIONS TO TUB 
 
 the foot of the lake; or an excursion may be made 
 by water from Bowness. 
 
 ' From Bowness we may proceed by watertoCiirwen's 
 Island, formerly called \\ iiidermere Island. As the 
 largest on the lake was purchased from Thomas Eng- 
 lish, Esq. by Mrs. then Miss Curwen, who long ago re- 
 moved the garden to Belle Granite. This island has 
 a good landing place, and is about thirty acres in 
 circumference, its form is oblong; its shores ir- 
 regular, occasionally broken into small bays and 
 creeks. To the taste of John Christian (Curwen, Esq. it 
 owes many of its decorations. T'he surface of this is- 
 land is uneven, and a sort of little Appenine ridge runs 
 through the middle of it, falling down in all shapes 
 into the water. The southern pait is smoother than 
 the northern, which is broken and rocky. This is- 
 land formerly belonged to the Philipsons, a family 
 of note in Westmoreland, during the civil wars, and 
 their mansion here was called Holm House. Two 
 brothers served Charles the Mrst, the younger, whose 
 name was Robert, for his many feats of personal va- 
 lour, was called Robin the Devil, by the Oliverians 
 in this part. In crossing the water at the ferry, Mrs. 
 Ratcliffe observed, " the illusions of vision give 
 force to the northern mountains, which, viewed from 
 hence, seem to ascend from the margin and spread 
 round it in a magnificent theatre. This was tb us 
 the most interesting view on Windermere. On our 
 approaching the western shore, the range of rocks 
 that form it, discovered their cliffs, and gradually 
 assumed a consequence which the breadth of the 
 channel had denied them, and their darkness was 
 well opposed by the bright verdure, and variegated 
 autumnal tints of the isles at their base." Near the 
 isthmus of the ferry point, is a building called the 
 Station, one of the most delightful places near the 
 lake. In front is Rampsholm, or Berkshire island. 
 The eastern view is adorned with all that is beautiful, 
 grand, and sublime. To the south is Rawlinson's 
 Nab, a high promontory jutting far into the lake.
 
 LAKES OF CLMCERLAND,&C. l2l 
 
 from whence you see the lake bending in different 
 directions in two fine sheets of water ; the northern 
 view is pleasantly broken by promontories, and small 
 islands, and the whole is terminated by a liack-g round 
 of distant, high, and rocky mountains, which will 
 scarcely fail to enrapture the traveller, who has 
 scarcely seen a mountain, or a lake of more extended 
 dimensions than the Serpentine in Hyde Park, 
 
 Proceeding from Ambleside by Bowness, towards 
 Newby Bridge, we pass Storrs, a handsome mansion, 
 built by the late Sir John Le^^ard, Bart. John Bol- 
 ton, Esq. the present proprietor, has added to it a 
 superb mansion, from desi;«ns by Mr. Gandy, both 
 fanciful and elegant. The grounds are also highly 
 improved. At Storr's Gate, tiie new road to Ken- 
 dal, on a fine elevation, leaves the road to that town 
 by Bowness, and joins that to Hawkshead to Kendal, 
 by the ferry, and that to Kendal near Windy Hall, a 
 mile and a quarter from Bowness. 
 
 About a mile before Newby Bridge, the road along 
 Windermere leaves Fell Foot on the right. Here 
 the direct road to Kendal passes over Gummer's 
 How, and one to the right, either over the sands by 
 Cartmel, or through Millthorpe and Burton, to 
 Lancaster. Leaving the public road, the way to the 
 mansion of Fell Foot is through an ancient grove of 
 evergreens. 
 
 EXCURSION XHL 
 From Kendal to Hawes IVater^ througk Long Slcddule. 
 
 Miles. Miles. 
 
 Watch Gate 
 
 Long Sleddale Chapel 
 
 Sadgill liridge 
 
 Chapel Hill at ihchcad of Hawes Water 
 
 Kendal is situated in that part of Westmoreland 
 at which the district of the lakes is considered as 
 commencing, on the eastern side. 
 
 Should the traveller wish to proceed from Lan- 
 caster to Kendal, bei;inning his excursions, instead of 
 ending them, according to our arrangement wii.}) 
 
 
 4^ 
 
 3 
 
 7* 
 
 2 
 
 9| 
 
 ti 
 
 14
 
 122 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 that route, he'may proceed from Lancaster, along the 
 Kendal road, as far as Burton, eleven milesp where, 
 instead of passing on to Kendal, he may leave that 
 road for jSlilthorpe, fifteen miles from Lancaster; 
 to Leveushall, seventeen miles; to Witherslack 
 twenty one; Newby Bridge twenty eight miles. 
 
 The new road from Cainforth by Levens, over 
 the Mosses, and under Whitbarrow Scar, will render 
 a tour to Ulverston highly interesting. 
 
 From Burton there is an excellent road to Kendal, 
 by Milthorpe. Levens Bridge is the next station ; 
 Sizergh Hall, the ancient family seat of the Strick- 
 lands, stands on the left about three miles from 
 Kendal. This is a venerable old building: in a 
 pleasant situation, formed, like others in ancient 
 times, for defence. The tower is a square building, 
 protected by two square turrets, and battlements. 
 One of them is over the great entrance, and has a 
 guard-room capable of containing ten or a dozen 
 men, with embrasures. The winding staircase ter- 
 minates in a turret, which defends the other entrance. 
 
 The river, on the banks of which the town stands, 
 rises in the vale of Kentmere, about fourteen miles 
 north of Kendal; and being joined by the streams 
 of Applethwaite, Longlesdale, and Grayrigg, be- 
 comes so powerful, when it arrives at Kendal, as to 
 work the machinery of several large mills. This 
 river abounds in trout, but the salmon have lately 
 deserted it, owing to the number of wears that have 
 been erected. 
 
 From Kendal to Ambleside there are two roads : 
 one by Stavely, the direct road; the other through 
 Bowness, which is the best. Both join at Cook's 
 House, about four miles from Ambleside; but nei- 
 their of them are particularly interesting i 1 within 
 sight of Windermere. 
 
 Kendal is pleasantly situated upon the river Kent, 
 over which it has two stone bridges, and one of wood. 
 The main street originally leading from the princi- 
 pal bridge, slopes upwards to the centre of the town,
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 123 
 
 and contracted itself into an inconvenient passage, 
 where it joins another principal street, which falls, 
 with a gentle declivity, both ways, 'i'hisisa mile in 
 length, and of a handsome breadth. The narrow 
 passage has been widened, and a new street formed, 
 from the centre of the town to the river side, which 
 has much improved the road through it for carriages. 
 The town, though ancient, is in general well built, 
 and has a cheerful appearance. The principal Ini»s 
 are genteel and commodious. 
 
 Mr. Todhunter has a valuable Museum at Kendal, 
 highly deserving the attention of strangers ami 
 others who visit the Lakes. It consists of a very 
 large collection of the minerals and fossils found in 
 this part of the country : musical stones, and otlier 
 curiosities, such as ancient armour, coins, medals, and 
 sculpture. Several Roman urns, found near Kendal ; 
 a collection of stuffed birds, quadrupeds, SiC, 
 
 About a mile and a half from Kendal, on the road 
 to Ulverston, is Scout Scar, a high rock, on which 
 is a terrace about a mile in length, facing the west, 
 from which there is a most surprising and extensive 
 view, which opens upon you all at once as you ap- 
 proach tlic top. 
 
 From Kendal the descent into Long Sleddale is 
 more than three miles. In appioaching the moun- 
 tains Horton-fell scrawls forward in all the terrific 
 grandeur of hanging ruck. As you advance, a yawn- 
 ing chasm appears to divide it upwards from the 
 base, and within it is heard the hoarse noise of un- 
 gulphed waters. The tumult of cataracts and water- 
 falls on all sides add much to the solemnity of these 
 tremendous scenes. 'Ihe path soon becomes wind- 
 ing, steep, and narrow, and is the only possible one 
 across the mountain. The noise of a cataract on 
 the left accompanies you during the ascent. On 
 the summit of the mountain you soon come in sight 
 of Long Sleddale, Lancaster Sands, &c. and in the 
 eourseof your descent, you will meet with a cataract 
 on the right. The road traverses the mountain as on
 
 124 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 theotherside, butisnuich bettermadeand wider. The 
 \vatei- falls on the riyht are extremely curious. You 
 enter Long Sleddale between two sheltered rocky 
 mountains. That on the left, Crowbarrow, is not 
 less terrible to lock Uj) at when under it, than any 
 rock in Barrowside or Borrowdale. Here is every 
 possible variety of water-falls and cataracts, the most 
 remarkable of which is on the left. Over a most 
 tremendous wall of rock, a mountain torrent leaps 
 head long one hundred yards and more in one un- 
 broken sheet. The whole vale is narrow ; the brows of 
 the hills on each side are wooded ; their feet covered 
 ^vith grass or cultivated, and their summits broken. 
 The road alon;i the vale is tolerable, and joins the 
 great road at Watch Gate, about four miles from 
 Kendal. 
 
 From the town of Kendal there is a steep ascent 
 having the workhouse on the right, and a prison on 
 the left ; about two miles from the town the Bovvness 
 road turns on the left from that direct to Ambleside ; 
 Townson Hall, on the right, a little beyond the turn- 
 pike, is the seat of James Bateman, Esq. On the banks 
 of the river Kent, about half a mile to the right, are 
 the ruins of Burnside Hall. From 'I'ownson Hall 
 the ascent is to asteep common, called Rotherlieath. 
 Hence, the heights of Staveley and Kentmere appear 
 in the distance. From Staveley, five miles from 
 Kendal, a road runs to the right, which, after passing 
 Kentmere Tarn, proceeds through the grand and so- 
 litary vale of Kentmere, and over the high pass called 
 Nanbield ; from thence in a steep descent, by Small 
 Water, it winds down a rugged track to Mardale, 
 v'hich lies at the head of Haweswater. About six 
 miles and a half from Kendal, stands Ings Chapel, a 
 neat erection. After the old Ambleside road has 
 passed St. Catharine's, from a steep descent, it joins 
 the new road at Troutbeck Bridge ; this descent dis- 
 plays the head of the lake of Windermere in full 
 glory. But, from the summit of the hill above, Or- 
 rcit, still nearer Ambleside, that sudden burst on the
 
 LAKES OF CDMBERLAND, &C. 125 
 
 head of the lake, with all its mazy winding:?, and 
 mas-ive woods, and verdant yjlaiob, are celightful. 
 
 Proceeding on the direct road to Havres V» ater, 
 ■we pass Skesglcs U ater, about a mile on tlie left, 
 lying between us and Kentmeie Tarn Hill, bell 
 next rears i-s head in the distance, between which 
 and our road winds Harter Fell, on the same side, 
 on a line with Hawes Water; at about a mile distant, 
 rises Kirlsey Pike. Hawes ^^ aier, which we have 
 now arrived at, is fourteen miles from Kendal, and 
 about eleven from Penrith, ftom which it is ap- 
 proached between two high ridges of mountains; on 
 the right, are two beautiful hills, one of them cover- 
 ed wiih wood " The lake is a sn^.all one ; about 
 tliree miles Ions; half a mile over in some places, 
 and a quarter in others; almost divided in the mid- 
 «3ie by a proniontory of enclosures, joined only by a 
 strait^ so that it consists of two sht-ets of water. The 
 upper end is fine, with bold, stcen, cra?g:y rocks and 
 ujoontairi.s; a noi^le ndge of these run along the 
 soDthside of thislake, very bold and prominent, down 
 lo the water's edge. I'his lake has been seldom vi- 
 sited by travellers, though it is distinguished by the 
 solemn grandeur of its rocks and scenery. The se- 
 cond expanse of ibis lake seems to terminate its per- 
 specii%'e by the hu^t mountain of Castle Crag ; but 
 as we proved, Hartcrfell rears his awful front, im- 
 - ending o-^er the water, and bounds the view. Here, 
 : thi^ entrante of a glen, almost cbcked by frag- 
 zueDts, stands Maidali Ohaf>eL Here we see the felis 
 of Latbaie, Wilter Crag, Castle Crag, and Riggen- 
 daie, in succession. Bejood the eastern shore, Kid- 
 sey Puke is pre-eaiineot : on the west is H igh Street, 
 overiookjag the head of IHIswaiter. Trout, chob, 
 perch, eels, and occasioBailj a few char, are taken 
 here, but these are deemed inferior to tbose io other 
 lakes. Ha*»eswater has been rigtatly styled a lesser 
 Uiswatej^, with tbis adTastage, Chat it remams node- 
 fiJed by the intrusion of bod faste. 
 Jir, West ays, Ha«esirater noaT be conTenkatly
 
 126 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 visited from Penrith, returning to it by the ruins of 
 Shap (or Heppe Abbey)- A square tower, with 
 piiced windows, forms the principal ruins. This pile 
 was built in the reign of King John, for Canons 
 of the Premonstratension order. Towards the south 
 end of the village of Shap, near the turnpike road, 
 on the east side oifit, there is a remarkable monument 
 of antiquity ; which is an area upwards of half a mile 
 in length, and between twenty and thirty yards 
 broad, encompassed with large stones, many of them 
 three or four yards in diameter, andof such immense 
 weight, that no carriage now used, could support 
 them. Undoubtedly, this has been a place of Druid 
 worship, which they alwa\s performed in the open 
 air, within this kind of inclosure, shaded with wood, 
 as this place of old time appears to have been, though 
 Shap 'i'horn excepted, a tree is not at present to be 
 seen here. Shap Thorn was phinted on the top of 
 the hill for the direction of travellers. At the hi^h 
 end of this place, there is a circle of the like stones, 
 about eighteen feet in diameter, which was their 
 sancfian aanctoruni^-AX^A place ofsacrifice. The stope 
 is a kind of granite, and wheu broken, appears beau- 
 tifully variegated, with bright shining spots, like spar. 
 When polished, they would make beautiful chimney 
 pieces. 
 
 The daughters of Long Meg are not placed in an 
 oblong, like the stones of Shap, but in a perfect cir- 
 cle, eighty yards in diameter, and are seventy-two in 
 number. Their height is from above three yards to 
 less than so many feet. A little out of the wav stands 
 Long Meg herself, a single store eighteen feet high. 
 The ruins of the Abbey of Shap, to which we 
 next proceed, suggest many melancholy ideas.— 
 What art thou now. Oh i)i!e of olden time? 
 The sparrow chatters on thy buttresses 
 Throughout the live long day, and sportively. 
 The swallow twitters through thy broken roofs. 
 Fluttering the whiteness of its plumes 
 Through shade, and now emerging to the sun.
 
 LAKES OF CLMBERLAND, &C. 127 
 
 The night-owls are thy choristers, and mope 
 Amidst the dieiry darkness of the nii^ht. 
 The twilight-loving bat with leathern wing 
 Finds out a crevice for her callow young, 
 Amid dilapidated halls on high. 
 Beyond the unassisted reach of man; 
 And on thy utmost pinnacles the roik 
 Finds airy dwelling place and quiet home. 
 When sweeps the night-gale past on rapid wing. 
 And sighs amidst thy poitais desolate. 
 The alders creak, with melancholy sound. 
 The ivy rustles, and the hemlock bends, 
 S[)ringing above the grass\ mounds of those 
 Whose tombs have long be^'U tenantless. But now. 
 With calm and quiet eye, the setting sun 
 Beams mellowness upon the wrecks of time. 
 Tinges the broken aich with crimson rust. 
 Flames down the Gothic aisle, and mantles o'er 
 The ruined altar and baptismal font : — 
 Monastic pile farewell. 
 
 From this sequestered spot we may continue our 
 route to the village of that name, situated near the 
 mouth of the Lowther, a proper place for refresh- 
 ment before we enter Shap-fells, a dreary melan- 
 choly tract of twelve miles. On the east side of the 
 road, soon after we leave the village, we observe a 
 double range of huge granites a' some distance from 
 each other, leading to circles of small strnes, and in- 
 creasing the space between the rows as they ap[)roach 
 the circles where the avenue is about twenty-seven 
 paces wide. They are supposed to have run quite 
 through the village and terminated in a point. An- 
 tiquaries have long been perplexed what to call tlijs 
 very uncommon monument; by some it has been 
 imputed to the Druids, by others to the Danes. Shap 
 Spaw is at a small distance to the east of these stones. 
 Leaving this gloomy region of black moors and 
 shapeless mountains behind, we now approach a 
 charming vale, best seen about the midway, between 
 the third and fouith mile-stone on the east side of the 
 N 2
 
 158 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 road, called Stone Crag, which cannot be mistaken. 
 Many beautiful hills and knolls are scattered about 
 this vallev, some cultivated, others covered with 
 wood. But the oval green hill, crowned with the 
 ruins of a castle, divides the valley and overlooks 
 the town of Kendal, apparently hanging on the side 
 of a steep mountain. 
 
 The narrowest part of Haweswater by report is 
 fifty fathoms deep, and a man may throw a stone 
 across it. Thwaite force, or fall, is a fine cataract on 
 the right, and opposite to it; the first sheet of 
 "water is lost amonu; the rocks and wood in a beautiful 
 manner. Bieakhow Crag, a ruinous rock, and over 
 it Castle Crag, a staring shattered rock, have a for- 
 midable appearance; andaboveall is seen Kidstow-r 
 pike, on whose summit the clouds weep into a crater 
 of rock that is never empty. On the eastern side, a 
 front of prominent rock bulges out into a solid 
 naked mass, and a waving cataract descends the 
 furrowed side of a soft green hill. The contrast is 
 fine. At Bieakhow Crag there is a pleasing back 
 view. Above the Chapel all is hopeless, waste, and 
 desolation. The little vale contracts into a glen 
 strewed with the precipitated ruins of mouldering 
 mountains. 
 
 From Hawes Water the road proceeds to Penrith, 
 nearly following the direction of Lowther River ; 
 those who wish to view tlie magnificent seat of the 
 Earl of Lonsdale, frequently pursue that route, when 
 the village of Bampton is passed at the junction of 
 ihe road from Shat. Lowther river constantly run- 
 ning, on the right we arrive at Aikham, opposite 
 which to the right is Lowther Hall ; we now have 
 a distinct view of King Arthur's Round Table. 
 
 Four miles from Fenrith, we arrive at Lowther 
 Castle. This magnificent pile was erected about the 
 year 1809; it is composed of stone of a rose-tinted 
 white colour, and both the exterior and interior dis- 
 play that style of architecture which prevailed in 
 ihc 13th and 14th centuries. The entrance is on
 
 LAKES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 129 
 
 the north side through an arched gateway, fioin 
 which a high embattled wall branches out each way, 
 with towers at intervals, and encloses the entrance 
 Court, a fine level lawn, having on each side roads 
 thiity feet broad, leading to the terrace winch is 
 about 3.5 yards wide and 170 long. There is also 
 opposite the gateway, a handsome flight of steps, 
 20 yards wide, by which the terrace may be attained 
 from the entrance court. A rich open porch em- 
 bellishes the centre of the north front : this conveys 
 to the entrance hall, which oj)ens to a staircase ot 90 
 feet high, and sixty feet square, surrounded on each 
 story by arched corridors that communicate with 
 the apartments: it is wholly of stone, and is lighted 
 by windows filled with painted glass. The saloon, 60 
 feet by 30, is in the centre of the south front; on 
 the right and left of this apartment are the dining 
 and drawing rooms, each 45 feet by 26, which, with 
 the breakfast and billiard rooms, complete the apart- 
 ments in the south front; from each extremity of 
 which, branching off at right angles, tlierearearched 
 open cloisters that communicate with the riding house 
 and stables on the left, and with the kitchen offices on 
 the right; this front is within the cloisters, about 
 280 feet long, and the prospect hence is extremely 
 beautiful, extending into a long vista of the deer 
 park, with ancient forest trees and rising grounds on 
 each side. The north front is 420 feet long, and is 
 ornamented with eight lofty towers; it likewise con- 
 tains a number of elegantly decorated aj)artments 
 of noble dimensions, and commands a very delight- 
 ful view which opens to Penrith beacon-hill, lately 
 planted, by the present Earl, to Saddleback and the 
 Scotch nitnintains. This mansion is universally al- 
 lowed to he one of the most splendid specimens of 
 modern Gothic; and the park and grounds surround- 
 ing it, are perhaps not to be surpassed in the Bri- 
 tish dominions, for extent, beauty, diversity of pros- 
 pect, and richness of scenery. 
 
 A very useful diversion has been made in Penrith 
 N S
 
 130 EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 Toa i, near Lowthcr Castle, br which the steep hill is 
 avoided, and the road broug'it considerably nearer, 
 throu;ih the village of Hacklliorpe. 
 
 High Heskett is half way between Penrith and 
 Carlisle, heing nine miles from each, forming the 
 northern extremity of the lakes. On the progress 
 from Penrith, the prospects are pleasant and exten- 
 sive: Heskett is a pretty large village; on its eastern 
 side is Tarn W'adling, a lake covering about one 
 hundred acres of land. On the crown at a lofty emi- 
 nence, on the noith-east side of the lake, are the re- 
 mains of a very strong building, 533 feet by 147- The 
 foundations still appear faced with large stones of 
 ashler work, in some places eight feet in thickness. 
 At what time this fortress was erected is uncertain ; 
 by the neighbouring inhabitants it is called Castle 
 Hewin. 
 
 jin Eicursion from Hatves to Middle/iam, 
 
 **I have lately (says a modern tourist) traversed a 
 considerable poition of this country. My ownaftairs 
 aftording little scope for mental exeicise, I have often 
 found employment for the eye, and thence for the 
 
 mind, in surveying the circumjacent scenery. 
 
 During the couise of ihe summer, 1 have beheld the 
 colossean fronts of our northern mountains — wiih 
 wearied steps have ascended their steep sides — their 
 summits gained, liave gazed upon the splendid dis- 
 play of " hills and dales, and woods, and lawns, and 
 spires," that was there spread before me, till the last 
 lays of the retiring sun, adorning the vault of heaven 
 in all the richness of colour, have vfarncd me of the 
 approach of darkness, and of my necessary return to 
 other rontem|)lations, which, if less pleasing, are 
 more profitable. — vVhde the remnant of the harvest 
 wasyet scattered over the fields, and the withering leaves 
 had scarcely forsaken the branches, I have seen the 
 snow-clad summit of Skiddaw sparklmg in the mid- 
 clay sun-beam, like an enormous aggregation of bril- 
 liants — dazzling my eye by its iiiimitable lustre, and
 
 L4KES OF CUx\IBERL\ND, &C. 13l 
 
 Relighting my fancy by the pleasing contrast witli 
 the various autumnal tints which variegated the val- 
 leys below. — 1 have crossed the dreary commons be- 
 tween Kendal and Shap. The passing mists now 
 aff'ording an opportunity of espying the top of some 
 lofty mountain — now revealing the depths of some 
 profound ravine, or the dangers of some hitherto 
 unseen precipice. Here all was wildness and chaotic 
 
 confusion. But of ail my excursive rounds, none 
 
 has given inesomuch delight as the ramble of a day 
 from Hawes to Middleham. 
 
 Before tlie dawning morn had been brightened 
 into day, I left Hawe?, with an esteemed friend; and 
 took the road to Hardraw, intending to visit the Scar, ' 
 which is named after that hamlet, .'\fter passing over 
 a few fields behind the village ale-house, we arrived 
 at a huge barrier of rocks, which rises to the height 
 of twenty yards. To the TVj}n is a similar natural 
 fortification. The intermediate space is of course a 
 deep chasm. Proceeding up this chasm, the rocks 
 increase in loftiness; but are on the left irregular 
 and less perpendicular. There was on the left a 
 singiilar accumulation of stones, forming a striking 
 resemblance of a cross- Though very accurate, it 
 was without doubt a natural production. But we 
 were deprived of the sight of this curiosity ; for some 
 of the country Vandals have lately reduced it into a 
 
 heap of rubbish •* Strange," said my friend, 
 
 ** that there should be found one being who can 
 thus wantonly devastate the * frolic scenes' of Na- 
 ture, and suppress that stream of pleasure which 
 flows from the purest fountain of the iiuman heart — • 
 stranger still that no punishment should await himl" 
 — After cautiously advancing for a considerable dis- 
 tance we reached the extremity of the glen. Here 
 at a single leap a great body of water falls in one 
 unbroken sheet from the summit of the rocks into a 
 deep receptacle below — What singular sensation 
 pervades us, while the eye is accompanying the de- 
 scent of the falling Nvater; which, as it approaches
 
 132 EXC LRSIONS TO THE 
 
 the earth \vitli increasing velocity, appears as if it 
 was about to separate from it>-e f, aiid to desert the 
 pursuing stream; while another portion apparently 
 dissolves into " thin air," and floats far above the 
 level of the ravine ! — When theeye is weary cf view- 
 jrig the foaming water, it is finelv relieved by the 
 few hardy shrubs which, springin^: out of ibe fis- 
 sures of the rocks, spread their scanty foliage over 
 the dark and dismal aspect of the castellated preci- 
 pices. Behind the cascade is a large excavation. In 
 it we stood, and eyed the firmament through the 
 liquid element. We retired, casting an occasional 
 glance at the overhanging steeps, whicli seemed to 
 threaten us with destruction. And we couldscaice- 
 ly assure ourselves that the danger was imaginary, 
 when we were clambering over the vast masses, 
 which have at some period fallen from the adjoining 
 cliff's, and now obstruct the pathway. 
 
 Returning, we bade adieu to Hawes, which is re- 
 markable for nothing but the politeness, intelli- 
 gence, and hospitality of its inhabitants. 
 
 We descended the vale to Askrigg, — The scenery 
 thither is marked with tameness. A want of wood, 
 water, and mountains, leaves little to gratify theeye 
 of observation A few minutes were spent in observ- 
 ing the simple neatness of Askrigg. Thence we 
 proceeded downwards. 
 
 Nappa, a curious old buildinii, the most ancient 
 part of which is now uninhabited, claimed our atten- 
 tion. It is situated in such a declivity that it miuht 
 easily be assailed from the road ; hence it can scarcely 
 be supposed to have been designed for defence. Yet 
 it is surrounded on the assailable sides by a wall, 
 which may formerly have been of more considerable 
 height, it has evidently been erected soon after the 
 civil discords of York and Lancaster. The mansions 
 of our ancestors about that period present a strange 
 incongruity. New and more tasteful ideas of archi- 
 tecture were then beginning to prevail. But the 
 apprehensions of danger had scarcely subsided. The
 
 LAKES OF CUMBEHLAND, &C. 133 
 
 ■feudal lord, himself ;^ovcrned by no Iaw,save his own 
 caprice — relied more on the stability ot his walls 
 than on the hcjnoiirofhis neighbour. Taste and fear 
 thus opposed, fiequen'ly ended in producing a struc- 
 ture of no beauty and of little strength. -We were 
 
 informed that one of the former owners of Napi)a, 
 being High Shei iff of Yorkshire, was attended by 
 three hundred of his own tenantry, all mounted on 
 grey horses. Thor.gh ihe present resident is distin- 
 guished by no such empty parade, the blessint^s of 
 social life will yield him more solid satisfaction, and 
 his own virtues will endear him more closely to his 
 friends, than all the gaudy symbols of ancient time. 
 After leaving Nappa, the vale by degrees expands. 
 In a short time the stately ruins of Bolton Castle ap- 
 peared in view. It is placed on the side of a steep 
 hill. The situation not particularly commanding. A 
 part of it is yet habitable. Here we applied, and 
 found a person who civilly accompanied us through 
 the building. We ascended the narrow winding 
 staircase of the north-western tower, and gained the 
 embrasured roof. Hence the prospect is pretty ex- 
 tensive and very agreeable. The hills are more pro- 
 niinent — the woods more extensive. To the south is 
 Preston rock. Before us Pennyhill. To the left, 
 the straggling village of Bolton. — While gazing upon 
 the expanse around us, we conceived that we might 
 be experiencing as much real enjoyment as any of 
 its former haughty lords, though ihey were viewing- 
 the servility of their vassals in the court-yard below 
 —or were surveying the surrounding country, una- 
 ble to discover the boundary of their own domain. — 
 From the distant scenes we so(m return to the deso- 
 lation before us. How is the importance of this 
 remnant of other days departed! Four towers (con- 
 nected by triflmg erections) formed it. Of one no 
 vestige remains — another is in ruins — and the two 
 remaining, their pomp vanished, their strength de- 
 stroyed, are kept in oider by two hinds, who j.-ain a 
 |)ittance by guarding the relics of former greatue.-s!
 
 ir^l EXCURSIONS TO THE 
 
 Yet how can we lament its destruction, when we rc- 
 nieml)tr that in it was confined tlie unfortunate Mary 
 Stuart, Queen of Scots? When we reflect that its 
 li)rd perfoimcd a part in that blr)ody drama wliich 
 concluded in huirying to the block an ilhistrious 
 princess whose beauty and whose misfortunes were 
 her i^reatest crimes — a drama wliich will for ever 
 btain the name of Elizabeth, and tarnish the other- 
 Mjse glorious achievements of her eventful reign? — 
 AVell for her and well for the nation if the curtain of 
 (>bli\ ion could fall upon the disgiaceful scenes : — Is 
 there one so calh^us as to tread the dirary and deso- 
 late apartment in which Mary was imniured, wi hout 
 being agitated with the fury of indignation a<>ainst 
 her oppressor? — while his soul is mc ting at the re- 
 collection of all her misery and of all her woe? 
 
 Quitting Bolton Castle we reached Bolton Hall. — 
 Observe the contrast ! The one worn out with ai^e — 
 decayed and deserted ! — The other flourishing in all 
 the pride of youth — clothed in all the splendour 
 M-hich munificence can supply — and so guarded by 
 the shelter of surrounding woods, that scarce " the 
 winds of heaven can visit it too roughly.'' 
 
 At every step the scenery becomes more engaging. 
 The villages seem peopled by that kind of " bold 
 peasantry" which is at once the pride and support of 
 Old England. The seats of the gentry are maikcd 
 with modest elegance. The land appeais moie fer- 
 tile. The groves, scattered around the country with 
 peculiar neatness, are more majestic. V\ hile the 
 whole is mellowed by the gentle glidings of the liver 
 Ure. In short, the whole district reflects that de- 
 scription of simple beauty, which, like tlie balm of 
 heaven, j^ently falls upon the sight, and soothes the 
 mind without disturbing the passions. 
 
 We now arrived at Leyburn. 'Its spacious 
 
 streetsdid not detain us long ; and -ve proceeded to- 
 wards Middleham. This was the pleasantest part of 
 our ramble. The two townsare charmingly situated 
 r)n the summits of trifling eMiinences, in full view of 
 each other. As we crossed the valley which sepa*
 
 r.i.KES OF CUMBERLAND, &C. 13/) 
 
 fates them, the departing sun shed his golden beams 
 ui)on Midilleham, and tinged the -pinnacles of tlie 
 groves in its vicinage with softened richness. Down 
 tht' centre of tlie vale the Ure impels his streams, in 
 beauteous curves ; and destitute of wood, (save here 
 and there a solitary shrub,) relies solely on his own 
 attractive powers for eliciting the admiration of those 
 who perambulate his humble banks. 
 
 'I'he end of our journey gained, we paid a short 
 visit to the remains of Middleham Castle. 
 ••There the pale pilgrim, as he stands, 
 
 Sees, from the broken wall, 
 The shadow tottering on the sands, 
 
 Ere the loose fragments fall. 
 ** Destruction joys, amid those scenes. 
 
 To watch the sport of Fate, 
 W hile Time against the pillars leans. 
 And bows them with his weight.'' 
 
 Should those who have pursued our arrangement 
 of routes, wish to conclude their tour of the lakes at 
 Lancaster, the ])lace from wiience we started the 
 route, prefixed to the commencement of this excur- 
 si'.'n, as it supplies the distances from place to place, 
 will easilv accommodate itself to that arrangement. 
 As this last excursion is, perhaps, that of the least in- 
 terest, it may, if time be wanted, be omitted by the 
 traveller. It is, however, given here, in order to make 
 the tour of the lakes complete. 
 
 The curious in Geology may feel no small interest 
 in the following remaiks. On the succession of rocks 
 in the district of the lakes, by xMr, J. Otley. 
 
 Granite is under<;tood to occupy the lowest place 
 in the series of rocks, which have hitherto been ex- 
 posed to human observation; it may be called the 
 foundation rock upon which all the others rest; 
 there are however, rocks of granite found in other 
 situations; these may be considered as of a later 
 formation. The only granite which I think entitled 
 to the name primary, appearing in this district, is of 
 a grey kind, composed oT quartz, white felspar, and
 
 136 EXCURSIONS TO THE LAKES, &C. 
 
 black mica; it may be seen denudated in the bed of 
 the river Ca'dew, near its source on the north east 
 side of Skiddaw ; and in a branch of the river Greta 
 Ijctween Skiddaw and Saddleback, about 400 yards 
 al)ove the level of the sea. 
 
 The rocks which succeed, and have been con- 
 founded together under the general name of slaty 
 rocks, may be classed in three principal divisions. 
 The first of which, or lowest in the serie?, forms the 
 mountains of SkiddaM', Saddleback, Grisdale Pike, 
 and Grasmoor, with most of the Newlands' mcun- 
 tciins, extending across Crommack Lake, and by [the 
 foot of Ennerdale, as far as Dent Hill. 
 
 'i'he second division consists of rocks more varied 
 in their composition ; they have been included under 
 the general name of slate rocks; but as those rocks 
 Avhich exhibit the slaty cleavage, form but a small 
 portion of this division, it does not accord with my 
 ideas to apply the teim slate to the rocks not possess- 
 ing the laminar, or slaty structure. 
 
 The third division, forming only inferior eleva- 
 tions, commences with a bed (erroneously called a 
 vein) of a dark-blue limestone, (the transition lime- 
 stone of some geologists,) intermixed with a slaty 
 rock' of the same colour: this is the first stratum in 
 which I have recognibcd any organic remains of 
 hells, &c. 
 
 THR END OF THE LAKE?
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Airey Force 
 Aldiogham Hall 
 Ambleside 
 Askrigg 
 Bank Park 
 Bardsea 
 Barton Bridge 
 Bassenthwaite 
 Beacon's Gill 
 Bellemont 
 Bigland Hall 
 Birker Force 
 Black Comb 
 BleaCrag 
 Blea Tarn 
 Bleakhow Crag 
 Boardale 
 Bolton Castle 
 
 Hall .. 
 
 Borrowdale 
 
 Page. 
 
 76,77 
 
 13 
 
 S7 
 
 132 
 
 55 
 
 4 
 
 .. 72 
 
 68,69 
 
 6 
 
 36 
 
 4 
 
 27 
 
 20, 21 
 
 97 
 
 32 
 
 .• 28 
 
 79 
 
 . 133 
 
 134 
 
 68,69 
 
 , Fells of 87 
 
 Bovvder Stone, the 66, 67 
 Bowness ... 119, 120 
 Brathay River ... 107 
 Broadwater ... 68, 69 
 Brotberswater 78, 79 
 
 Brougbtou,tbeTownof 24 
 
 , Tower 19 
 
 BurnmoorTarn ... 103 
 Burton in Kendal 1,2 
 Burnside Hall ... 124 
 Buttermere 48, 93, 96 
 
 , History of 
 
 Mary of ... 97 
 
 Calgarth House ... 114 
 Calvert, Mr. ... 82,83 
 
 Cartmel 
 Castle Crag 
 Castlerigg 
 Clark'i Leap 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 66,67 
 47 
 47 
 
 Page. 
 CockleyBeck ... 33 
 Conistou Hall ... 14, 15 
 ■ - Lake, prevail- 
 ing character of 14 
 
 — Water ... 13,14 
 
 Cook's House ... 122 
 Coom Door ... 91 
 
 Cork Hall ... 4 
 
 Cove, mountains of 41 
 Crag, an enormous 66 
 
 , Various .. 64 
 
 Cross Fell ... 87 
 
 Crummock Lakes ... 48 
 
 Water 97 
 
 Castle Steads ... 3 
 
 Curwen, Mr. ... 120 
 
 Dacor, tbe Stream of 77 
 Dacre Castle ... 77 
 Dale Gartb Hall ... 27 
 Deepdale ... 78 
 
 Derwent Water, 51, 52 
 Dog, a Faithful 43, 44 
 Dolly Waggon Pike 43 
 Donnerdale ... 20 
 
 Dove Crag ... 17 
 
 Nest ... 91 
 
 Druidical Circle, tbe 22 
 Duddon Grove 23, 24 
 
 — — — , Estuary of 24 
 
 , Sands ... 88 
 
 River ... 19 
 
 Dunmail Raise ... 41 
 Eagle Crag, tbe ... 65 
 
 Cliff ... ib. 
 
 Eagles, the haunt of 78 
 
 nest, a, stormed 56 
 
 £amoBt)tbe winding vale 
 
 of 77 
 
 Easedale, Vale of 38 
 
 Echoes, effect of amongst 
 Rocks and Caverns 44
 
 138 
 
 Page. 
 Elleray ... 114 
 
 Elter Water ... 29, 30 
 Ennerdale Bridge lOl 
 
 , Lake of 101 
 
 Water 99 
 
 Esk, the Vale of ... 27 
 Esthwaite Water 35, 106 
 
 Hall ... 35 
 
 Excursion from Lancas- 
 ter to Ulverton, over 
 the Sands ... 1 
 
 — Ulverston 
 
 to Furness Abbey 5 
 
 New Inn to 
 Levers Water ... I6 
 
 ' the New Inn 
 
 to Seathwaite 19 
 Coniston 
 
 Water Head to Hawk- 
 head, &c. ... 35 
 Ambleside to 
 
 Keswick ... 36 
 
 — Keswick to 
 
 Saddleback ... 48 
 ■ — Keswick 
 
 round Derwent water 50 
 
 ■ Keswick by 
 
 Ulswater to the Inn at 
 Patterdale .. 71 
 
 ' - — Keswick to 
 Skiddaw ... 8-2 
 
 —— Keswick to 
 
 Butiermere, through 
 
 Borrowdale ... 91 
 
 — Ambleside 106 
 
 — — Kendal to 
 
 Haweswater ... 121 
 Hawes to 
 
 Middlcham 130,135 
 Farlton Knot ... 2 
 
 Fell Foot Mansion 121 
 Fells, various ... 125 
 Field Head ... 36 
 
 Furness Abbey .. 6, 12 
 
 Page. 
 Fish, various ... 80 
 Fleetwith ... 91 
 
 Flookburgh ... 4 
 
 Foulniart and Filchets, 
 
 hunted ... 90 
 
 French Horns and Cla- 
 rionets, effects of 76 
 Gatesgarth Village 66 
 Gentleman, a young, lost 
 
 his way ... 43 
 
 Geology, remarks on 135 
 Gillerthwaite ... 99 
 Glaramara, Mountain of 91 
 Glencoin Woods ... 74 
 Glenridding Bridge 78 
 Goats Water ... 17 
 I Goldrill Crag ... 20 
 I Goody Gill Head ... 91 
 j Gouldscope Coppermine 93 
 i Gowbarrow Park 75, 76 
 Grange, Village of 4 
 
 Grasmere, Lake of -lo 
 Guide, Lines on a 14, i5 
 Gunson,John ... 25 
 Hartsop Dod 79, 80 
 
 Hassness ... 97 
 
 Hatfield, the notorious 65 
 Haweswater 125, 126 
 
 Hawkshead ... 36, 114 
 Haws Bridge ... iO 
 Helm Crag 40, 45, 46 
 
 i Helvellyn, View of 15 
 
 - — the mighty 1O4 
 
 HertonFell ... l23 
 High Hesket ... 130 
 High Knotts ... 91 
 High Man, the ... 34 
 HoIkerHall ... .4 
 HonisterCrag ... 92 
 How Hall ... 99,101 
 Ideas, coincidence of 31 
 Ings Chapel ... 124 
 Iron Mines, very rich 6 
 Islands in Windermere IDS
 
 139 
 
 Page. 
 Isle of Man, view of 12 
 Kendal ... 122, 123 
 
 , New Road to 121 
 
 Kent River ... 124 
 Kentmere Tarn and 
 
 Vale ... 124 
 
 Keswick, Vale of 47, 48 
 Kidsey Pike ... 125 
 Kirkby, David, Esq. 16 
 Knott, Michael, Esq. 16 
 Lake Mountains, the, 
 
 compared to a wheel 32 
 Lakes, Queen of the 109 
 Langdale Head 32, 33 
 
 , vale of 27,28,29 
 
 Latrig, or Skiddaw's 
 
 84 
 
 Cub 
 Leatheswater 
 Levens Bridge 
 Leverswater 
 Long iVIeg and 
 
 Daughters 
 Long Sleddale 
 Longevity, instances of 22 
 Lonsdale Magazine, the 20 
 Lords Feudal, danger- 
 ous and unconafcrt- 
 able situation of 
 
 — Island, the 
 
 Lorton, Valeof 
 Lowdore Waterfall 
 ■ Cannon, the, at 70 
 
 Lowesvvater ... 98,99 
 Lowick Bridge ... 16 
 Lowther Castle 128, 129 
 Low Wood ... o7 
 
 Lune, River, Vale, and 
 
 Wheel of ... 2 
 
 Lyulph Tower ... 73 
 Macreth, Thomas 13 
 
 Manisty Meadow ... 54 
 Mardale ... 124 
 
 Mart Fell ... 90 
 
 Martindale ... 79 
 
 46 
 .. 122 
 16, 17 
 her 
 
 226 
 123, 124 
 
 133 
 57 
 
 105 
 69 
 
 Page. 
 
 Matterdale 90 
 
 Maw Edge ... 91 
 
 Mellhreak . . 97, 92 
 I\Iiddleham ... 134, 135 
 Nanbield ... 124 
 
 Nappa, a curious old 
 
 building .. 132 
 
 New Inn, the ... 16 
 Newland Vale ... 93 
 
 • Hawse ... ib. 
 
 Old Man ... 43 
 
 Ormthwaite ... 68 
 
 Otley and Green, awful 
 
 Descent of ... 50 
 Patterdale,or Patrick's 
 
 Dale ... 79 
 
 Pennington ... 6 
 
 Penny Bridge ... ob 
 Pikes, the ... 34 
 
 of Langdale 41 
 
 Place Fell 43, 7\ 74 
 
 Pool^ Bridge ... 77 
 Rampsholm ... 120 
 Randon Knot, or But- 
 
 termere Hawse 98 
 
 Ravenglass, Lines on 103 
 Red Tarn ... 43 
 
 Rivers near Ravenglass 103 
 Road, New, from Lan- 
 caster to Ulverston l, 2 
 Robin the Devil ... 120 
 Rossthwaite Cam ... 91 
 
 Village 67 
 
 Rydal Head, View of 14 
 
 Mount ... 40 
 
 Water ... 38 
 
 Hall ... ib. 
 
 Saddleback ... 46,48 
 Sands, the Lancaster 23 
 Sands, Lancaster, Re- 
 flections upon ... 45 
 Sannwyke, Village of 79 
 Sawrey ... 35,36 
 
 Scale Force 48, 96 97,
 
 140 
 
 Scale Tarn 
 Scawfell 
 
 Page. 
 
 48, 50 
 
 34 
 
 , Mountain, 
 
 View of ... 27 
 
 Scene, an admirable 16 
 
 , a tremendous 9 J 
 
 Scout Scar ... 123 
 
 Seat Oiler Village 91 
 
 Seathwaite and Tarn i9 
 
 Village 33 
 
 Sliap, or He})pe Abbey 126 
 
 , lines on lite ruins of, ib 
 
 Thorn ... 126,1^7 
 
 127 
 
 ... ib. 
 
 18 
 
 66 
 
 122 
 
 19 
 
 82,84 
 
 13 
 
 93 
 
 82 
 
 125 
 
 27 
 
 30 
 
 120 
 
 Fells 
 
 , Village of . 
 
 Shepherd's Bridge 
 Si Torr 
 Sizcreh Hall 
 Skelwith Bridge , 
 Skiddaw 
 
 Smith, George, Esq. 
 Stone, the power of 
 Spooney Green 
 Skeggles Water ... 
 Stanley Gill 
 Statesman, an Old 
 Station, the 
 Sterility and Wildness, 
 
 extreme ... 100 
 
 St. Herbert's Island 57 
 St. John's Dale ... 90 
 Stock Gill ... 37 
 
 Storrs, a handsome 
 
 Mansion ... 121 
 Stye Barrow Crag 78, 104 
 Sunken Chuich, the 22 
 Swartmoor Hall ... 13 
 Tail End ... 28 
 Tarn, the,on Saddleback 49 
 , Wadling, or Cas- 
 tle Hewin ... 130 
 Thimble Hall ... 23 
 
 Page. 
 Threlkeld Fells .. 46 
 Thwaite ... i6 
 
 Force, or Fall 128 
 
 Tf-dhunter, Mr. ... 125 
 Torver, Peak of ... 14 
 Tour around Winder- 
 mere ... 109,114 
 Towers, Richard, Esq. 20 
 Trontbeck ... 114 
 
 Turf, curious manner 
 
 of getting ... 67 
 
 Tyson, William ... 30 
 Vale of Duddon,Visitto 21 
 
 of Keswick, new 
 
 and pleasant view of 94 
 Views, various 12, 40 
 
 Ulpha Crag ... 19, 20 
 Ulswater ... 71, 76 
 Ure, River of .. 134 
 Urswick, lake or tarn 6, 13 
 Wallow Barrow Crag 26 
 Walter Scott, Poem by 44 
 Wansfell, Pike of 37 
 
 Wast Dale ... 99, 102 
 
 Head ... ib. 
 
 Village ... 104 
 
 • Water 102,103 
 
 Watenlath, Valeof 62,65 
 Water Head House 27 
 \Vest's Station ... 13 
 Whitbarrow Scar ... 3 
 Windermere 106, 107 
 
 — a tour round 109 
 
 Beauties of 115 
 
 Wordsworth, W. Esq. 40 
 Wonndftle Raise ... 58 
 Wraysholm Tower ... 4 
 Wrynose ... 20 
 Wythburn Head ... 91 
 Yew Crag ... 91 
 Yewdale Grove ... 18 
 Crag ... ib. 
 
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