./!•* THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES V ^^ .\X ^ ^(■f- J; ^ ii; S9 S ."" THE m^tovp, anU ^itti(imtic<> OF ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT, IN THE COUNTY OF CUMBERLAND: WITH 13tograpf)ical jlotirre antt ittrmotre. By SAMUEL JEFFERSON, AUTHOR OF "THB HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF LEATU WARD," "THE HISTORY OF CARLISLE," &C. Illustratetr tnttQ numerous opiates ants iBiisiabings. CARLISLE: S. JEFFERSON, 34, SCOTCH-STREET. LONDON: J. B. NICHOLS AND SON, 25, PARLIAMENT-STREET, AND WUlTTAKEn AND CO., 13, AVE-MARI A-LANE. NEWCASTLE: E. CHARNLEY. M DCCC XLII. TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE ^tllilliam, laaii of ILon&tralf, ii.^'^'f VISCOUNT AND BARON LOWTHER, OF WHITEHAVEN, AND A BARONET, LORD LIEUTENANT OF THE COUNTIES OF CUMBERLAND AND WESTMORLAND, S:c., &c., tic. THIS VOLUME, BY HIS LORDSHIP'S GRACIOUS PERMISSION, IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY HIS LORDSHIP'S VERY OBEDIENT AND HUMBLE SERVANT, S. JEFFERSON. PREFACE. In presenting to the Public the second Volume of this History of Cumberland, I can refer with some degree of pleasure to the additional in- formation it contains, now first published, respect- ing the Ward of Allerdale above Derwent. At the same time, I cannot but express my regret that, from the circumstance of that Ward being in the diocese of Chester, there are few MSS. in the library of theDiiAN AND Chapter of Carlisle, which con- tain any thing illustrative of the civil or ecclesiasti- cal history of that portion of the county. In reply to my application to ascertain if there were any MSS. preserved at Chester, I was informed that there are none in the Chapter library there, which relate to this portion of the diocese. Allerdale Ward above Derwent being the only division of this county which is not in the diocese of Carlisle,* no such difficulty will occur in col- lecting materials for the future volumes. The library of the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle is rich in MSS.f relating to the other portions of the county : and from them a mass of original and highly interesting information may be col- lected. The account of this Ward in Nicolson and Burn's History of Cumberland and Westmorland • Excepting one or two parishes and chapelries in Derwent Ward, t See Catalogue of the MSS., Leath Ward, p. vi. VI PREFACE. is exceedingly meagre and brief, (even more so than that of the other parts of the county,) some of the parishes not occupying a page. The second volume containing Cumberland, is much inferior to the first (Westmorland), which is usually attributed to Dr. Burn, the learned chan- cellor of the diocese. In the year 1840, a new division of the county was made by the magistrates, which, after recon- sideration, and with a few unimportant changes, was enrolled and settled in June, 1841. — This History of Cumberland is, therefore, the only one based on the present division of the county into six Wards. To the churches and the ecclesiastical affairs I have paid more particular attention than any of my predecessors ; but I have not succeeded in obtaining any thing approaching to a perfect list of the Incumbents of each parish, although application was made to the register oflSce at Chester. Many of the Clergy have assisted me in this and in other respects ; but still the result is by no means satisfactory. The Messrs. LvsoNS give no list of the Incumbents of any of the parishes. Nicolson and Burn's History, while it contains lists for the other parishes, has none for those in AUerdale W^ard above Derwent : and that History of Cumberland which bears Mr. Hutchinson's name, contains very imperfect lists for some parishes ; and for others, none at all. To the politeness of the Clergy, I have been much indebted in these researches : and have now the pleasure of expressing my obligations to the Rev. Andrew Hudleston,D.I)., incumbent of the chapel of St. Nicholas, Whitehaven ; the PREFACE. Vll Rev. Robert Pedder Buddicom, M.A., F.A.S., Principal of St. Bees College, and incumbent of the parish of St. Bees ; the Rev. Thojias Dalton, incumbent of the chapel of the Holy Trinity, Whitehaven ; the Rev. George ^Vil- KiNSON, B.D., incumbent of the parish of Arlecdon ; the Rev. Alexander Scott, JM.A., rector of Bootle ; the Rev. Henry Low- ther, M.A., rector of Distington ; the Rev. Joseph Gilbaxks, rector of Lamplugh ; the Rev. Francis Ford Pinder, ]\I.A., rector of Gosforth ; the Rev. Peter von Essen, B.A., rector of Har- rington ; the Rev. Fletcher Woodhouse, rector of Moresby ; the Rev. Willlam Henry Leech, rector of Egremont ; the Rev. Henry Pickthall, B.A., vicar of Millom ; the Rev. John Grice, in- cumbent of Drigg and Irton ; the Rev. Joseph Taylor, B.A., curate of Muncaster ; the Rev. John Bragg, curate of Whicham ; the Rev. Jeremiah Walker, incumbent of Ulpha ; &c. To the Right Hon. William, Earl of Lons- dale, K.G., F.S.A., I am deeply indebted for permission to dedicate tlie work to his lordship. I beg also to express my gratitude, for the loan of books, to the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle, to the Society of Antiquaries of Newc astle-on- Tyne, to Henry Denton, Esq. of Lincolns Inn, and John Bell, Esq., of Gateshead. For much val- uable information respecting St. Bees, I am in- debted to the Rev. George C. Tomlinson, F.A.S., Chaplain to the Marquis of Huntley ; and for assistance in various parts of the volume, to tlie Rev. John Lingard, D.D., Bernard Gilpin, Esq., of Ulverston, Miles Ponsonby, Esq., of Hale Hall, Richard Taylor, Esq., Ravenglass, YUl PREFACE. Mr. William Dickinson, North Mosses, Mr. John Gibson, Whitehaven, Mr. Isaac Clements, B.A., Drigg, Mr. Robert Abraham, of Liverpool, and many other Gentlemen, whose pohte atten- tion I have great pleasure in thus acknowledg- ing. S. J. Carlislb, October, 1841. SUBSCRIBERS. His Grace the Duke of Devonsliirc, K.G., large paper. The Right Hon the Earl of Carlisle, K.G , F.R.S., large paper. The Right Hon. the Earl of Lonsdale, K.G., F.S.A., Two large paper. The Right Hon. Baron Lowthor, F.R.S., F.S.A., large paper. The Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of Durham, large paper. The Hon. and Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of Carlisle, /acye paper. The Honorable Charles W. G. Howard, M.P., large paper. Sir George Musgi'ave, Bart. Edcnhall, One large paper. Two small paper. The Dowager Lady Musgrave, Leamington, large paper. The Worshipful the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle, large paper. The Venerable the Archdeacon of Carlisle. The Society of Antiquaries, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, largepaper. Thomas Ainsworth, Esq, Flosh, near Cleator. Mr. John Airey, Keswick. William Armstrong, M.D., M.R.C.S.L., &c. The Rev. Joseph Askew, M.A., Whitehaven. Mr. William Barclay, York. John Barwise, Esq., Granby Row, Whitehaven. J. A. Beck, Esq., Eslhwaite Lodge, Hawkshead. Mr. William R. Beck, London, large paper. James Bell, Esq., Whiteliavcn. Messrs. Joseph and .Fohn Bell, Whitehaven. Mr. Edward Bell, Whitehaven. Mr. Daniel Bell, Soulh-Castle-strect, Liverpool. Mr. Joseph Bcnn, Whitehaven. Robert Benson, Esq. Cockermouth. Mr. John Birley, Whitehaven. Mr. Tliomas Blain, London. Lancelot Bouch, Esq., Workington. Mr. Henry Bragg, Whitehaven. Joseph Brayton, Esq , Black -Cock, near Whitehaven. Robert Brisco, Esq., Low-Mill House. John 'I'rotter Brocket!, ICsq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Thomas Brocklebank, Esq., Liverpool, large paper. Mr. William Brough, Ilarringlon. Mr. Jeremiali Brown, llarraby Green, Carlisle. The Rev. John Brmit, Incumbent of Cleator. Mr. George Buckham, Whitehaven. The Rev. Robert P. lUiddicom, M.A., F.A.S., Principal of St. Bees College, and luciiinbitit of the parish of St. Bees. Isaac Burns, Esq , Whitehaven. SUBSCRIBERS, The Rev. Thomas Caddy, Incumbent ol Whitbeck. "SVilliam Carrulliers, Esq. Solicitor, Carlisle, large paper. Mr. Emerson Charnley. Newcasllc-upon-Tyne. The Rev. Matthew Chester, incumbent of St. Helen's, .\uckland, Durham. Mr. Joseph Clarke, Warwick-Bridge. Mr. Isaac Clements, B.A., Drigg. Mr. Joseph Collins, Coleman-street, London. Bernard Gilpin Cooper, Esq., Hazel Grove, Stockport. Mr. William Cormick, Whitehaven. W. B. Curwen, Esq., Workington-hall, Richard Cust, Esq., Carlisle. The Rev. Anthony Dalzell, Close End, near Workington. Mr. Isaac Dalzell, Wliitehaven. The Rev. Thomas Dalton, Incumbent of Holy Trinity, Whitehaven, Henry Denton, Esq., 6, Lincolns Inn, London. The Rev. C. Jones Denton, East Walton Vicarage, Norfolk. John Dickinson, Esq., Red How, Lamplugh. Joseph Dickinson, Esq., M.D., F.L.S., Great George's Square, Liver- pool. Mr. William Dickinson, Mosses, near Whitehaven. W. L. Dickinson, Esq., Workington. Mr. John Dixon, Whitehaven. Thomas Dixon, Esq., New York, large paper. Mr. W'illiam Dixon, W^orkiugton. Mr. Stephen Dodd, Whitehaven. Mr. James Doman, Whitehaven. Mr. George Edger, Carlisle. Mr- John Faulder, Unthank. Mr. Jonathan Fell, Workington. Mr. Daniel Fidler, Cockermouth. William Fisher, sen., Esq., Liverpool. William Fisher, jimr., Esq., Workington, large paper. Mr. Peter Fisher, Parton, near Whitehaven. Mr. James Fitzsimons, Whitehaven. Mrs. Forrester, Whitehaven. Mr. Ralph Forster, Corkicle, neai Whitehaven. Mr. John Gibson, Post Office, Whitehaven. Joseph Gillbanks, Esq., Whiteficld House. The Rev. Joseph Gilbanks, Rectory, Lamplugh. Bernard Gilpin, Esq. Ulverston. The Rev. Samuel J. Goodenough, M.A., Prebendary of Carlisle Thomas Henry Graham, Esq., Edmond Castle, largepaper. The Rev. John Grice, Incumbent of Drigg and Irton. Mr. John Guy, Green Hill Academy, Whitehaven. Mr. William Haige, Winscales, near Workington. The Rev. Amos Hall, M.A., Hensingham. E. II. Hare, Esq. Workington. SUBSCRIBERS. XI Mr. Harris, Cockertnouth, Mr. Thomas Haixis, Carlisle. John Harrison, Esq., Whitehaven. George Harrison, Esq., Lincthwaite, near Whitehaven. Mr. David Harkness, Workington. Jolin Hartley, Esq., Moresby House, near Whitehaven. Thomas Hartley, Esq., Gillfoot, near Whitehaven. John Hobson, Esq., Lousdule-place, Whitehaven. Mrs. Hodgson, North-end, Burgh-upon-Sands. Mr. Isaac Hodgson, Millom Castle. Christopher Holliday, Esq., Scaton. Philip H. Howard, Esq., M.P. Corby Castle. Henry Howard, Esq., Greystoke Castle. Mr. Robert Howe, Whitehaven. Mr. John B. Howe, Carlisle. The Rev. Andrew Hudleston, D.D., Whitehaven. William Hughes, Esq., F.R.G.S., Professor of Geography in the College of Civil Engineers, London. Peter Htud, Esq., Workington. Samuel Irton, Esq. M.P., Irton Hall, largepaper. Thomas Irwin, Esq., Calder Abbey. Mr. Daniel Jackson, Whitehaven. The Rev. R. Jackson, B.A., Wreay. Joseph Jackson, Esq., Calva, Workington. The Rev. William Jackson, M.A., Incumbent of St. John's Chapel, Workington. Mr. Thomas Jackson, Seaton Mill. Mr. T. Elgar Jefl'erson, Ulverston, /ar^e paper. W. M. Johnston, Esq., Harrington. Mr. C. King, Cheapside, London. Mr. James Kirkcouel, Post Office, Workington. Thomas Langliom, Esq., Lairbeck, near Keswick, large paper. Richard Law, Esq., CaTlis\e, large paper. Mr. William Ledger, Whitehaven. The Rev. T. B. Levy, M.A., Kirkby-Thore, largepaper. The Rev. George Lewthwaite, B.D., Rector of Adel, near Leeds. Isaac Littledale, Esq , Whiteliavcn, large paper. The Rev. Henry Lowther, JNI.A., Rector of Distington. William Lumb, Esq., Fox-houses, Whitehaven, large paper. Mr. Duncan M'Alpin, Blackball. Mr. M' Farlane, Wliilehaven. Mr. E. R. -M' Gaa, Workington, Mr. Charli'S Magee. Whitehaven. Mrs. M' Kniplil, Whitehaven, large paper. M. Heron Maxwell, Esq., .St Bees. William Miller. Esq., Whitehaven. Joseph .Miller. I'Nq . Whitehaven. Mr. E. Mi.rdumit, Hrowtop, Workington. Mr. Isaac Mossop, Whitehaven. b 2 XU SUBSCRIBERS. Mr. William Newton, Woodside, Cheshire. Mr. Richard Nicholson, Liverpool. William !•'. Nicholson, Esq., Cartgate, near Whitehaven. Jlr. NiiTinio, Whitehaven. John Norman, Esq., Excise Office, London. WilUiim Palrickson, Esq., Crosby-on-Eden. John Peilc, Esq., Somerset House, Whitehaven. Mr. John J. Pcile, Whitehaven. Williamson Peile, Esq., Whitehaven, large paper. Captain Rowland Pennington, Whitehaven. Mr. William Perry, Royal Bank Buildings, Liverpool. AVilsou Perry, Esq., Whitehaven. The Rev Henry Pickthall, B.A., Vicar of Millom. The Rev. Francis Ford Pinder, M.A., Rectory, Gosforth. John Pousonby, Esq., Whitehaven. Miles Ponsunby, Esq , Hale Hall. W. J. Posllcthwaile, Esq., Whitehaven. J. B. I'ostlelhwaite, Esq., Solicitor, Whitehaven. Robert Postlethwaite, Esq., The Oaks, Millom. William Postlethwaite, Esq , Banker, Ulverston. Mr. .William Posllethw^aite, Whitehaven. Isaac Powc, Esq., Waterloo-terrace, Whitehaven. William Randleson, Esq., Croft Hill, near Whitehaven. Mr. John Roan, Whitehaven. Mr. John Robinson, Whitehaven. Mr. William Rodgcrson, St. James's street, Liverpool. Mr. Thomas Rome, Rocklifl'. Mr. Joseph Hooke, Chcctham, Manchestcr,/arpe paper. John Roper, Esq., Calder Cottage, Calder-Bridge. Mr. George Routlcdge, London. Mr. Henry RouUedge, Baldock, Herts. The Rev. Ed\v.ard Salkeld, M.A., Vicar of Aspatria. Henry Salkeld, Esq., Stainburu. Mr. Tl.omas Sanderson, Workington. Mr. Thomas Sanderson, 39, Paternoster-Row, London, large paper. Mr. John Sawer, Breckonhill. The Rev. Alexander Sco'.t, M.A., Rectory, Boolle. Mr. John Scott, Trinity College, Dublin. Captain Isaac Scotl, junr., Browtop, Workington. Sampson Senhouse, Esq., Parsonage, Ponsouby, large paper. Humphrey Senhouse, Esq., Fitz, Cockermouth. The Kev. John Shackley, St. John's, Micklegate, York, large paper. George Sibson, Esq., Solicitor, Carlisle. Captain Jonathan Sim, Whitehaven. William Slack, Esq., Anns Hill, Cockermouth, large paper, William Smith, Esq., Hensuigham. Mr. John Russell Smith, London. Mr. Edward Smith, Harbour-master, Workington. Mr. William Sowerby, Aldcrsgate-street, London. John Spencer, Esq., Whitehaven. Mr. Joseph Stamper, Solicitor, Cockermouth. SUBSCRIBERS. XUl Edward Stanley, Esti-, M.P., Ponsouby Hall, large paper. Major Steel, St. Helens, Cockermouth. John Steel, Esq., Solicitor, Cockerinoutli. Anthony Benn Steward, Esq., Whiteliavcii. Jlr. John Borrowdale Steward, Whitehaven. Mr George Stockdale, London. The Ucv. Joseph Taylor, B.A. Curate of Muncaster. Charles Thompson, Esq., Workington. Isaac Thompson, Esq., Workington. John Thompson, Esq. Kclswick House, near Whitehaven. M.ajor Tolson, F.S.A., United Service Club. The Rev. G. C. Tomlinson, F.S.A. &c., Staughton Rectory, Hunts. Mr. .John Tomlinson, Whitehaven. Mr. William Todd, Whitehaven. W. B. D. D. TurubuU, Esq, F.R.S.E., Secretary to the Camden Society. Mr. Joseph Turner, Whitehaven. Mr. James Turner, Low House, near Whitehaven. Tlie Rev. John Vicars, Incumbent of Hale. Mr. John Waldio, Harraby Green, Carlisle. James Robertson Walker, Esq., Gilgarron, High-sheriff of the county. Mr. John Walker, Mark(.'t-place, Whitehaven. The Rev. William Walton, M.A., F.R.S., AUenheads. The Rev. John Watson, Incumbent of Cumrew. Mr George Watson, Whitehaven. Richard Watts, Esq., Clifton House, large paper. Mr. Wattleworth, Whitehaven. . William Whitehead, Esq., Ribton House, Whitehaven. The Rev. Robert Whitehead, M.A., Incumbent Minister cf St. John's chapel, Hensinghani. Robert Grose Whitehead, Esq., Hensingham. Richard Whiteside, Esq., Chapel House, Hensingham. Mr. Thomas Williamson, Whitehaven. Mr. William Wilson, Whiteh.avcn. Mr. Jonathan Wilson, Birk-bank, Cockennouth. The Rev. Fletcher Woodhouse, Rector of Moresby. Mr. William Yeates, Wlutehaven. ADDITIONAL SUBSCRIBERS. J. H. Attwood, Esq. Troughton House, near Wliileliaven. Mr. William Bumyeat, Wkitehaven. The Rev. Robert CoulUiard, M.A. Fellow of Queen's College, Oxford. Mr. Dickinson, Kidbumgill, near Whitehaven. John Douglas, Esq. Crofts, near Whitehaven. William Dowson, Esq., Rock Ferry, Liverpool. Mr. John Wilson Fletcher, Greysouthen. The Rev. John Fox, D.D. Provost of Queen's College, Oxford, large paper. Henry O. Huttnvaite, Esq., Solicitor, Maryport. W. B. Jones, Esq. Beech Cottage, Grasmere. Mr. Kiiinebrook, Artist, Whitehaven. Mr. Thomas Mandell, Distington. John Nicholson, Esq. Nether Stainton. Captain Henry Pcarce, Whitehaven. Charles Rawson, Esq., Wasdale Hall, large paper. Captain William Robinson, Liverpool. Mrs. Scott, William-street, Workington, large paper. Humphrey Senhousc, Esq., Netherhall, two copies, large paper. The Rev. William Singleton, Drigg Hall, near Irton. Colonel Speddiiig, Ingwell, near Whitehaven, two copies, large paper. Edward Tyson, Esq., Solicitor, Maryport. The Rev. J. Wilson, Crozier Lodge, Carlisle. CONTENTS. Introduction .... Church Livings, and Population of each Parish Tlie Parish of Harrington Page 1 4 5-14 The Parish of St. John, Beckermet 15—20 The Parish of Egrcmont The Parish of Cleator 21—50 61—54 The Parish of Halo 55-67 The Parish of Moresby . The Parisli of Arlecdon . ' . 58-70 71-75 The Parish of Distington The Parish of Lamplugh The Parish of Wahcrthwaile 76-81 82—91 92-94 The Parish of Corney Tlie Parish of Whicham 95-97 08—103 The Parisli of Drigg Tlic Parish of Whitbeck . 104-114 115—123 The Parish of Bootle 124-144 The Parish of Millom 145—192 The Parish of Irton 193—208 The Parisli of Muncaster 209—238 The Parish of Workington The Parish of Ponsonby The Parish of Gosforth . 239—277 278—294 295—303 The Parish of St. Bridget, Beckermet The Parish of St. Bees . Appendix .... Additions and Corrections .301—325 326-434 435—146 Index of Monuments and Epitaphs . Index of Persons Index of Places and Subjects LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. Whitehaven CasUe, a Seat of the Earl of Lonsdale, K.G. Frontispiece. Cross in Irion Church-yard . Page 207 The Church of Muncastor • ■ . . 220 Calder Abbey .... The Arms of Archbishop Grindal, on a bridge at St. Bees Cross in the Church-yard of St. Bees The Prior)' of St. Bees Lowther Street, Whitehaven Arms of the Right Hon. the Earl of Lonsdale, K.G. . 321 331 ib. 3W 359 370 THK l^n^torg antr ITntitiuttic^ OF CUMBERLAND : SSttitI) liiogt'ttpfjiral Xoticrs anU fttrmotre. BY SAMUEL JEFFERSON, AVTHOR OF "THE HISTORY AND AKTiaUlTlES OP CARXI8LE/' &C. iillustratcii tDitfj numn-au0 opiates anir i£ngrabinafi. VOL. II.— ALLERDALE WARD ABOVE DERWENT. CARLISLE: S. JEFFERSON, 34, SCOTCH-STREET. LONDON: J. B.NICHOLS AND SON, 25, PARLIAMENT-STREET, AND WHITTAKER AND CO., 13, AVE-MARIA-LANE. NEWCASTLE: E. CHARNLEY. MDccc xm. THE ^iQtotv, cintr atttiattttic^ or CUMBERLAND : Si!!9itl5 Uiograpfiifal iTiottrrs antt ftlrmoire. BY SAMUEL JEFFERSON, AUTHOR OF "THE BISTORT AND ANTIQUITIES OP CARLISLE/* &C. ClIuBtrattO toitf) iiunurouB IJIatts anH Isngrabings. VOL. I.— LEATH WARD. CARLISLE: S. JEFFERSON, 34, SCOTCH-STREET. LONDON: J. B.NICHOLS AND SON,25,PARLIAMBNT-STnEET, AND WHITTAKEK AND CO., 13, AVE-MAKI A-LANE. NEWCASTLE: E. CHAHNLET. M DCCC XL. THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OP ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. UntroHurtiom HE Ward of Allerdale above Derwent comprises the south-western portion of the county of Cumber- land, extending along the coast from Workington to Milloni. Its length from north to south is 35 miles, and its greatest breadth about 15 miles. It is bounded on tlie south, by the Duddon, which di- videsit fi"om Lancashire; on the west, by the Irish Sea ; on the north, ])y the Derwent, which divides it from Derwent Ward ; and on the east, by Derwent Ward and Lancashire. It forms part of the deanery of Copeland, in the archdeaconry of Richmond and diocese of Chester. This ward is watered by the Derwent, the A \ '2 INTRODUCTION. Duddon, the Esk,* the Calder, the Bleng, the Ehen or Enn, the Irt, and the Mite. The Ward of Allerdale above Derwent, until lately, included the whole of the barony of Cope- land, now called Egi-emont, and the honor of Cockermouth, and was given to William de MeschineSjf Earl of Cambridge, by his elder brother,* Ranulph, Earl of Chester, who had received a gi"ant of the county from William the Conqueror. At this time, the barony was bounded by the Derwent, the Duddon, and the Irish Sea ; but " so much of the same as Heth between the rivers of Cocker and Derwent," William de Meschines re-granted to Waldieve, Lord of Allerdale, son of Gospatrick, Earl of Dunbar, with the honor of Cockermouth and the lordship of " the five towns above Cocker" — Brigham, Dean, Eaglesfield, Braithwaite, and Greysouthen. William de Meschines built his baronial castle at Egrcmont, and changed the name of the barony from Copeland to Egremont. All lands which lie or his successors, lords of Copeland, granted within the barony, were to be holden of the castle of Egremont. William de Meschines gave Workington, Salter, Kelton, and Stockhow, to Ketel, son of Eldred, son of Ivo de Talebois, baron of Kendal; the manors of Beckermet, Fris- ington, Rotington, Weddicar, and Arlecdon, to .... Fleming ; Kirkby Begog (St. Bees) to the • There is another river of this name in the northern part of tlie county, wliich gives name to Eskdale Ward. t The rc-founder of the monastery of Kirkby Begog or St. Bees. • By some authorities, Ranulph de Meschines is said to have been the father of William. INTRODUCTION. 3 abbey of St. Mary, at York ; Mulcaster to an ancestor of the Penningtons ; Drigg and Carleton, to .... Stuteville ; Millom, to Godard Boyvill ; and Stainton, Bolton, Gosforth, and Hale, to Thomas Multon of Gilsland. Further particulars respecting this barony may be found under the account of the parish of Egremont, in a subse- quent part of this volume. By a recent division of the county, which oc- curred in IS 10, the Ward of Allerdale above Derwent has been deprived of the parishes of Brigham (including the borough of Cockermouth) and Dean, the parochial chapelries of Lorton and Loweswater, and the townships of Great and Little Clifton, in the parish of Workington ; all of which are now included in the newly-created Ward of Derwent. The parishes now retained in tlie Ward of Allerdale above, are enumerated in the following table : — A 2 SH SI I? Bo- ocrcrp tipoP-ScEE-S^B. CSrogH. ecdon )tle ator tington gg emont iforth le Tington n aplugh lom resby ncaster isonby Bees Bridget's, John's, Be berthwaite icham itbeck rkington a « 11 S- 3 e* S!;^W55^^^^H3H3ja^53^j5jH-N-;5-H-5^i--^SlT3 ccooorefDfiOfBtr'oren f^ccftoftcreo 5..g §.£.3,3.3,3,3 £g o,g o,g £,g 00^ o,g c CoCCooOC^CO^IOoCcCOCOOrOfTJ 5t) £L £i £L ^ £. ^ £, £. E- £L £- K c onoors o o o on t^ 1 S^SSS g S 5 e g < P PPP52P pP P PP 5 rsirioo o<^ o oo •< >^ >-<■-< "< •? "S tC ^ w^- H- h- tc »o tC Co H- c» c:^.ucoc^oro — occrc;^oc.Taroo.t-crc.c-*4bieo CJClW^^^WOJ^CnOCiOOtOO'tDOOH-o-^Oirf- **** • *«»«** « X'-^'Hr-ES>^Kr"^O=-C0BHt/:C?'-'^-;HHH S'c-cror*ra-c.o=rs-o»S^c:-K-oPcr&-- =:•£?- e Bishop of Chester, e Earl of Lon.sdale R. G. Braddyll, Esq. e Earl of Lonsdale e Earl of Lonsdale muel Irton, Esq., M.P. neral Wyndhani H. h\ Scnhouse, K.C. e Earl of Lonsdale nry Curwcn, Esq. muel Irton, Esq., M.P. in Laniplugh L. Uaper •• of Duchy of Lancast c Earl of Lonsdale rd Muncastcr ward Stanley, Esq., M. e Earl of Lonsdale Gaitskcll, Esq. GaitskcU, Esq. rd Muncastcr e Earl of Lonsdale c Earl of Lonsdale nry Curwcn, Esq. "5 > ■^ a ."" ^ CO — Oic.rf-co.u.ucowc5cntr^c;irf^it.c;.^c;i.ii.t.coo^ifa- 5 rf..i0.i-^i0Q:.J-^itC.i-O.— .— QOCOCON-c:"-OrCOCCO C-. C 0-. l,-. V CI iJ. C.1 c c. c-- c c c c c c c ^ 00 c: Co H- ^ ^ rf^ ►- to " CO .t. tC to -^ C;. CP it- CO IC Ci 0^ CO ."J bS CO CJ. Co 1 4-(XCOMrC^.i-*4.fcCOOCOOt.*i|CC>.— 0:iCfCcri*-c ccc?tiOoccnoooOH-toc;'m»JC[Cci:ii:bitct;!u c C-. .- .- .- cotrcr— -.re-. ici-oodOojotCi-Grtn^ — co^cS £ r > CO — — _— --CO^ — — intOC— ^C.C1COO.-|— tco:' - z -^ ^^ ^^ ^~ — tcco — c->c;.^.— o-'tcoccic.-'OC'tcoo^iCkOicacc: .£- — OrtsLCCO — — OC-'O'CO.— OC^ii-.i-(r*-COODODH-c>^ Xi— — a ICCJicOCC/'Ccn — CiCtOOOK-COOOOODC^OO ~ ^ IC M- w .— iciCH-coc-.o^-o^sccic-^iicer^i.t.ecic.^^i.t- ^r oj .X ..0 .^1 ►— oc c. Qc CO tc Co c-" «^i Co « ij cr. *-2 or :*; *.i '^1 C-. — 0^ ti -^ ife CO c ^ CO ^1 _ — or tc c .- IC c ic ii ?; J H 03 r t<) c w oa S 13 O a S3 o CO < o Z O en - Z z c > c D srtc «)ari0f) of |l!arrington. HIS parish, formerly spell- ed Haveringham or Ha- reringfon, was the inheri- tance of, and gave name to, the ancient and baroni- al family of HaiTington : it extends about two miles and a half along the sea- coast, and is about one _____^ mile in breadth. It ad- joins the parishes of Workington and Distington. The commons, which formed the greater part ot this parish, were enclosed about the year 1770, and it still retains a bare appearance from its want of trees. The Manor. Soon after the Concpiest, this manor was grant- ed with AN'orkington, to the Talebois fomily, barons of Kendal in Westmorland, and was holden as a fee of Workington : but at an eariy period it ])assed to the family of Harrington, of whicli liouse there were several branches,— of Beaumont, in Cumbedand ; of Witherslack,in Westmoriand ; of Aldingham, in Furness, Lancashire ; of Hid- lington, CO. Kutland, Baronets; and the Barons Hm-rington of Exton. u /■ \ 6 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The eldest branch of this family were lords of Harrington ; one of whom married the heiress of Seaton, in the parish of Cammerton, below Der- went, and therefore confirmed Flemingby or Fliniby to the abbey of St. Mary, Holme Cultram ; but her gi'andfather, surviving her, gave the lord- ship to her uncle Patric de Culwen. Philip and Mary, by letters-patent, bearing date in the third and fourth of their reign, grant- ed to Henry Curwen, Esquire, all that demesne and manor of Haverington with the appurtenances in the county of Cumberland, late parcel of the possessions of Henry duke of Suffolk convicted and attainted of high treason ; and also all and every messuages, mills, houses, buildings, tofts, cottages, barns, stables, dove-cotes, gardens, orchards, pools, ponds, lands, tenements, meadows, pastures, feedings, commons, ways, wastes, furze, heath, moors, mosses, rents, reversions, and ser- vices reserved iipon any grants or leases ; and also fee farm rents, knights' fees, wardships, mar- riage, escheats, reliefs, heriots, fines, amercia- ments, courts leet, view of frankpledge, profits, waifs, estrays, bondmen, villeins with their fol- lowers ; and all rights, commodities, emoluments, and hereditaments whatsoever, with the appur- tenances, situate, lying, and being in Harrington in the said county of Cumberland and elsewhere to the said manor belonging ; and all woods and underwoods of, in, and upon the premises grow- ing and being, and the land, ground, and soil thereof. The same being of the yearly value of 18/. 14.S. 8f/. (Except all advowsons of livings.) — To hold to the said Henry Curwen, his heirs and assigns, of the king and queen and the heirs and PARISH OF HARRIKGTON. ' successors of the queen in capite, by the 40th part of one knight's fee, for all rents, services, and demands. , . , tt n • Henry Curwen, Esq., of Workington Hall is the present lord of the manor and patron ot the rectory of Harrington. The demesne is within the inclosure of Workington park. Harrington of Harrington.* ^rms.—Sahh, a fret argent. de Harrington married the heiress of Seaton, in the parish of Cammerlon, below Dervvent ; she died "n the life-time of her grandfather, Thomas, son of Gospatrick. Robert do Harrington, in the reign of Edward T-, married the hen-ess of Cancelield, Agnes sister and heir of ^ .Iham son of Kiehard de Canceheld, who ™%"i!,'i„^l"='=' ^'f ,^ '{'^^ heir ofSir Michael le Fleming, son of William, son of the first Sir Michael le Fleming, of Beckermet, kmght. He had a son and heir, John de Harrington, knight, first baron by ^rit who was summoned to parliament fmm 30'^ December 1324 (18th Edward U.) to 13th November, 1345, (2lst Edward HI.) in the early writs he is called " Johanni de Haverington . Sis eldest^son, Robert, married Elizabeth, one of the three sisters and coheiresses of John de Multon of Egremon , and died in the life-time of his father, leaving John, son and heir, his successor. John de Harrington was summoned to parliament in 1348 and 1349, and di.-d in 1363, leaving issue, a son and iieir. Sir Robert de Harrington, knight son and heir of John received the honor of knighthood at the coronation ot . Of this family, H. Harringtun, M.U.. Alderman of the city of Bath, the editor of Suycc AntUju^, -h« died m 1^10, ^va. a deseendmu. 1 he .hort but significant motto, nodofirmo, and the fret, from them denonun- aled the Uarringlon knot, have scr>ed to grace the assumptive arms ol miuiy modem shields. 8 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Richard II., and was summoned to parliament from 1st Richard II., 1377, until his death in 1405. Pie married Isabel, daughter and coheiress of Sir Nigel Loring, knight of the most noble order of the garter, by whom he had issue. Sir John de Harrington, knight, son and heir, died with- out issue, hi 1418*. Sir William de Harrington, knight, brother and heir, was summoned to parliament from 1421 to 1439. He married Margaret, daughter of Sir Robert Nevil of Hornby, knight, by whom he had issue a daughter, Elizabeth, who married AVilliam, Lord Bonville ; by this marriage she carried into that family the accumulated estates of Harrington, Fleming, and Cancefield, a third part of the great estate of Multon, and a moiety of that of Loring. Sir William was summoned to parliament from 1421 to 1439, and died in 1457, without male issue, leaving his grandson his next heir, who became Baron Harrington, J«re matris. William, Lord Bonville, and (jure matris) Baron Harring- ton, married Catherine, daughter of Richard Nevill, Earl of Salisbury, (see vol. i. Leath Ward, p. 70), who was slain at the battle of Wakefield, in 1460. The Yorkists, on whose side he fought, prevailing soon after, his estates were not confiscated. He left an only daughter, Cecily, who married, firstly, Thomas Grey, first Marquess of Dorset, K.G., by whom she had issue ; and, secondly, Henry Stafi'ord, Earl of Wiltshire, who died s. p. Thomas Grey, second Marquess of Dorset, K.G., son and heir of the above, married Margaret, daughter of Sir Robert Wotton, knight, and died in the 22nd Henry VIII., 1530, leaving issue, Henry Grey, third Marquess of Dorset, K.G. created • The name of i?o6er< do Harington occius regularly in the Sum- monses to parliament from 1st Richard 11. (1377,) (o 3rd September 4th Henry V. (Ml 7 ;) but as Robert, the last barun died in 1405, and as John Baron Harington is stated in the Rolls of parliament to have been present on the 22nd December, 8th Henry IV. (140G,) it may be infer- red that all the Writs after the 7th Henry IV. were directed to this Baron, and that the Chiislion tame of Robert on the Rolls after that year was an error. — Nicolas. PARISH OF HARRINGTON. 9 Duke of Suffolk, 1551 ; and Lord High Constable, 1547, He married Frances, daughter and coheiress of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, by Mary queen-dowager of France, and sister of Henry VIII. ; by whom he had three daughters, Jane, Katherine, and Mary. The lady Jane Grey, his eldest daughter, was proclaimed queen of England, on the death of Edward VI., and was soon after beheaded. Her father also, for countenancing this honor, so unwillingly " thrust upon" her, was attainted and beheaded in 1554, when the demesne and manor of Harrington, with other of his estates, became forfeited to the crown. The Church Was given, with that of Workington, to the abbey of St. Mary, York, by Ketel, son of Eldred, son of Ivo de Talebois. After the dissolution of rehgious houses, Henry VIII. by letters-patent, bearing date, August 20, in the 3Gth year of his reign, (1544), granted to Robert Brokelsbye and John Dyer, tlie advowson and right of patronage of the churches of Hav- erington and ^\'orkington ; to hold of the king in free socage by fealty only, and not in capite. On the 27th January, 1545, they conveyed by fine those two I'ectories to Thomas Dalston, of the city of Carlisle, Esquire. On the 12th of October, in the Gth of Eliza- beth, (1564,) there was a licence of alienation to John Dalston, Esq., to convey the advowson and right of patronage of the churches of Ilaverington and Workington, parcel of the late monastery of St. Mary, York, to Henry Curwen, Esq., in whose posterity they have since remained. But in 1721, the lord of the manor being a Roman Catholic, the university of Cambridge presented the Rev. Charles Richardson to the rectorv. 10 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. In the Ecclesiastical Survey, 26th Henry VIII. the rectory is thus valued : — Hav'ingham Eector' EccVie. Nich'us Cowcrson incumbens Rector' p'dca. valet in £ s. d. Mansione cum gleba per > annu. \ Decim' garbas. iiij/. feni ix*. pisciu. mariiios. ij*. Ian' et agnell' iij*. hid. minut' et privat' decim' cum oblac' ut in libro paschal' xlvs. x«?. In tot' -vij vij £ s. d. >-vij X vij £ s. d. £ "j 8, 7 vij V). "J — xiiij viijob'q' Repris' vis. in Sinod' xiijf?. procurac' ij«. iijc?. Et valet clare Xma. ps. inde In the King's Books the benefice is vakied at 7/. 7.V. 2>\d. : and it was certified to the governors of Queen Anne's bounty at 37/. ; viz. glebe, SI. ; all tithes belonging to the rectory, 251. ; prescrip- tion for Mr. Curwen's demesne, 21. ; Easter dues and siu-plice fees, 21. List of Rectors. Nicholas Cowerson, occurs 1 535. .... Hudson, occurs c. 1642. 1661 R. Chr. Mattinson. 1662 Jeremiah Topping. 1690 John Proctor.* 1695 Thomas Orfeur. 1721 Charles Richardson. 1724 Charles Richardson. Presented by the Duke of Somerset. PARISH OF HARRINGTON. 11 1734 Charles Noble. 1753 Darcey Otley, M.A., ob. 1780. 1780 John Bird. ' 1785 Joseph Adderton. 1795 Peter How, U.k* 1817 Wilham Curwen. 1823 John Curwen, ob. 1840. 1840 Peter Von Essen, B.A. The church of Harrington, dedicated to St. . . . ., is picturesquely situated closely adjoining the rectory-house, on an eminence overlooking the green knolls by which the port is suiTOunded. It consists of a nave and chancel, with a square tower at its western end, and a vestry on the north side of the nave. The nave, wliich is low and narrow, is lighted by windows of modern in- sertion. The entrance is from the west, under the tower ; and the step is an ancient grave-stone on which is visible part of a cross-floree. The chancel is a modern addition, built in 1811, and is both loftier and of greater breadth than the nave : it has a large eastern window of three lights. The pulpit is here placed, having been removed from its former situation on the enlarge- ment of the church. The tower contains one bell with the date 1670. A plain slab on the floor of the nave bears the following inscription : — In Memory of The Rev. DARCY OTLEY, M.A. Rector of Harrington, who died the 15tli of September 1780, aged 53 years. • Died rector of Workington, 1834. B 2 12 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT, On the south wall of the nave is a marble tablet, mscribed Sacred to the Memory of Mr. JAMES KEY, ■who departed this life November the 23rd 1822, aged 77 years, and of ANN, his wife, who died January the 25th, 1829, aged 76 years. In fulfilment of whose last wishes, this Tablet is erected, by her Executors. Near the above are three plain black slabs on the wall with these inscriptions : — Mr. ROBERT BANNISTER died June 30th, 1734, aged 82 years. MARY ye Wife of Robert Bannister died October ye 27th 1752 aged 82 y" MARY ye Daughter of Robert and Mary Bannister died the 9"' June 1737 aged 31 years. On the north side of the church-yard, near the rectory-house, under an old thorn, (a spot selected by himself,) is a tomb-stone surrounded with iron rails, bearing this inscription : — Sacred to the Memory of The Rev. JOHN CURWEN, Rector of Harrington for sixteen years, and also Rector of Plumbland ; youngest son of John Christian Curwen, Esq. of Workington Hall, M.P. for the county of Cumberland, who departed this life Feb. 24th, 1840, aged 40 years. Also of JOHN CHRISTIAN CURWEN, his infant son, who died March the 3rd, 1828, aged three months. PARISH OF HARRINGTON. 13 In the church-yard near the west end, is a grave-stone bearing an inscription for AVilham Sanderson, who " was dark at Harrington church 62 years." At the east end are several inscriptions to the memory of different members of the family of Crosthwaite ; and on the north side to the M' Gaas. The Port of Harrington Is situated at the mouth of a rivulet called the Wyre, two miles and a half south of W^orkington, and five miles north of Whitehaven. The first quay here was built by Henry Curwen, Esq., grandfather to the present lord of the manor ; and his son, John Christian Curwen, Esq., M.P., improved the harbour at considerable expense. " In 17(J0 there was not one house here, nor one ship belonging to the port." About the year 1 794, there were nearly sixty vessels belonging to Harrington, averaging 100 tons burthen. In 1828, the number of vessels was stated to be forty-three, of an agregate burthen equal to 5,179 tons. The number in 1810 was 11, and their burthen about GOOO tons. The principal trade is in exporting lime to Scotland, and coals to Ireland : the former is brought from the adjoining parish of Distington ; and tlie latter are raised in this parish from the mines of Henry Curwen, Esq. Near the harbour are two yards for ship-build- ing, a ropery, and a manufactory of copperas and vitriol. Iron-stone has been formerly got here, above 14 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT, the seams of coal ; and about 2000 tons were for many years annually exported to Scotland and Wales. The school-house at Harrington was built in 18.. by John Christian Curwen, Esq. The school has no endowment. C1&C Uari0i& of ^t. :ilof)u. HE parish of St. John, Beckermet, or Becker- mont, is bounded by the parishes of St. Bridget, St. Bees, Hale, and Egre- mont. It extends rather more than three miles from east to west, and from the north to south about one mile and a half. Carleton-moor and Grange-brow, in this parish, were enclosed under an act of parliament passed in 1813. This parish contains the south-eastern suburbs of the town of Egremont, and a part of the village of Beckermet, as divided by the Kirk- beck. Wotobank, near the village of Beckermet, is the seat of Mrs. Hartley. The name is derived by traditionary etymology from — Woe to this bank. The legend is as follows : — a lord of the manor, with his lady and servants, were one day hunting a wolf, and in the ardour of the chase the lady was lost. After a long search and heart-rending suspense, her body was found lying on the bank, slain by a wolf, who was then in the act of tear- ing her to ])icces. In the first transports of his grief, the distracted husband cried — " AVoe to this bank." This tragedy is the gi'ound-work of 16 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. a long poem, by Mrs. Cowley, called " Edwina ;" which is contained in Hutchinson's Cumberland. The Manor of Little Beckermet, Thus designated to distinguish it from the manor of Great Beckermet in the adjoining parish of St. Bridget, has been for several centuries held by the Flemings, of Rydal hall, Westmorland, as demesne of the barony of Egi"emont. The possessors and land-tenants of Rotington, Frising- ton, Arlecdon, and Weddicar, held their lands as fees of Beckermet. Lady le Fleming, of Rydal hall, is the present possessor of this manor. The Church. The church of St. John was given by the Flemings to the abbey of St. Mary, at Calder ; and in the year 1262, on the petition of the abbot and convent, it was totally appropriated to that house. They represented in that petition to Godfrey de Ludham, archbishop of York, " that although they had the right of patronage in the churches of St. John Baptist of Beckermet, and of St. Michael in Arlekden, yet by reason of the importunity of great men, and provisions of the benefices, they had not free liberty to present unto the same ; and therein, where they obliged one great man they disobliged many more ; they therefore request, that the archbishop would take such order therein, as may be more beneficial to the said abbot and convent, and also to the arch- deacon of Richmond, to whom the sequestration of, and institution to vacant benefices doth belong. PARISH OF ST. JOHN. 17 and the collation thereof for various causes may appertain : Therefore the said archbishop g^i'ants to the said abbot and convent, that the chinxh of St. John of Ik'ckerniet, ■which is nigh to the house of Calder, and contiguous to their parish of St. Bridget, shall, after the death or cession of ^Villiam the then rector, be converted and per- petually remain to their own use, for the increase of their alms, and better sustentation of the con- vent : And that the archdeacon of Richmond may not be prejudiced thereby in his right to seques- trations, institutions, and collations, he gi'ants in reconipcnce thereof, that the church of Arlekden, after the death or cession of Alan the then incum- bent, sliall be perpetually annexed to the arch- deaconry, and converted to the use of the arch- deacon, so that he may have a house in Coupland unto which he may resort, when he or his officials go into those parts, through bogs, and floods, and various tempests, to discharge their ecclesi- astical function."* In this, as in many other cases, the church of St. John was served by the monks of that religious house to which its revenues had been appropriated. But on the dissolution of religious houses, the cupidity of Henry VIII. who had seized on their revenues, would not allow him to restore them to the churches, which were then left totally desti- tute, proving the truth of that expression of the single-minded and pious Roman Catholic bishop, John Fisher, (with reference to Henry VIII.) that "it is not so much the good, as the goods of the church, that is looked after." • Nicolson and Bum. C 18 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWEXT. By this act of injustice the churches of St. John and St. Bridget were so impoverished, that they have been until IS 11, suppHed by the same curate, who officiated in each akcrnately. In the time of Bishop Bridgman, who held the see of Chester from 1619 to 1657, these two parishes paid synodals and procurations jointly ; but since that time, in consequence of their poverty, they have paid nothing. In the year 1702, a curate was nominated to the two parishes, by Richard Patrickson, Esq. In 1767, Henry Todd, Esq. was the impropriator and patron; and in 1S2S, the curacy was in the impropriation and patronage of the Rev. Henry John Todd, F.S.A. rector of Settrington, co. York, and chaplain in ordinary to his majesty. The patronage was sold about the year 18. . to Henry Gaitskell, Esq. the present impropriator and patron. The living Avas certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty at 7/. per annum. The Rev. Anthony Dixon is the present incumbent, and the resident curate is the Rev. John Sheffield. The old church, which was taken down about thirty years ago, had a south porch ; it was not pewed, and was seated with forms. The present church dedicated to St. John Baptist, is a small, neat, ivy-covered edifice, re- built about ISIO. It is beautifully situated on the side of a hill near the Kirkbeck, and near the junction of the parishes of St. John, St. Bridget, and Hale. It consists of a nave and chancel, with a west porch, over which is a bell-tuiTet can-ying two bells, and a Aestry on the north side of the chancel. The porch is entered by a PARISH OF ST. JOHN. 19 pointed arch, preserved from the old church, en- riched by a triangular canopy, ornamented with crockets, terminating in two heads, all much nuitilated, and the finial is lost. The church is hghted by sash windows ; the font is placed im- mediately in front of the reading-desk. On the east end of the chancel are the remains of a cross l^reserved from the old church. A grave-stone with a cross and sword, in good preservation, but with no inscription, is built into the north wall of the porch. On the east wall of the chancel is a marble monument with this inscription : — Sacred to tlie memory of JOHN RICHARDSON of Carleton Lodge, Esq. Who died the 10th day of May, 1811, aged 2G years. His remains were interred at St. Nicholas's Chapel, Whilehavcn. He beqncathed, by ■will, the interest of one hundred pounds, to be distributed annually on Easter Day, to such poor inhabitants of this parish as do not receive any benefit from the poor rates. His widow, Jane Richardson, (in grateful tribute to his memory) caused this monument to be erected. Near the above is another mural monument inscribed — To the memory of ELIZABETH and ISABEL TODD, daughters of the late Mr. Henry Todd, of St. Bees, gentleman ; who were impropriators of this parish, and whose remains are interred in the church of St. Bees. Eliz. died June 14, 1811, aged 83. Isab. died May C, 1808, aged 79. On the south wall of the nave is a marble c 2 20 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. monument to the memory of the -widow of the above John Richardson, Esq., bearing this in- scription : — Sacred To the Memory of JANE BIRLEY late of Carleton Lodge, who died on the Gth day of September, 1833, aged forty-seven years. Her remains were interred at St. Nicholas's Chapel, Whitehaven. She bequeathed by her will, the interest of fifty pounds, to be distributed, annually, on Easter Day, to such poor inhabitants of this parish as do not receive any benefit from the poor rates. Charities, Mr. John Richardson, of Carleton, in this parish, who died in 1811, bequeathed the interest of 100/. to be distributed annually at Easter, among the poor of this parish who do not receive parochial relief. Mrs. Jane Birley, who had been left a widow by the above Mr. Richardson, left by will, in 1833, the interest of 50/. to be distributed annually on Easter-day, to the poor of the parish who do not receive parochial relief. Wift I3art0i) of iSgrnnont S bounded by the parishes of St. Bees, Cleator, Hale, and St John Beckermet,and the chapel- ry of Ennerdale. The whole parish is included in one to\VTi- ship of its own name. It ex- tends about three miles from north to south, and two and a half from east to west. The Messrs. Lysons state that of the parishioners buried here from 1805 to IS 14, one in ten were aged from 80 to 89 inclusive, and about one in fifty-eight were aged from 90 to 99 inclusive. The parish is traversed by the road from Whitehaven to Ulvcrston, and is watered by the Ehen and some other small streams. In this parish are two iron-stone mines worked by Anthony Hill, Esci- and the Messrs. Lindows. The ore is shipped at Whitehaven, and is chiefly sent to Cardiff and New[iort, in Wales. Lime- stone also is plentiful in the parish, and there are some quarries of red free-stone. The common called Cowfield, on which each of the burgesses had a right of pasturage for a cow, is now enclosed: it was sold by mutual consent. It is stated in Hutchinson's Cumberland that there were then (1794) remaining near the town, several tumuli, particularly one of loose stones. 22 ALLERD.\LE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. forty paces in circumference : not far from it was a circle of large stones, ten in number, forming an area of sixty paces in circumference, without any elevation of gi'ound. On the north side of the town near a field called Gibbet-holme, on the Langhorn estate, several skeletons have been found at various times. Egremont Formerly a borough, is an ancient market-to\\Ti, situated on the west or right bank of the Ehen, over which there is a modern bridge of two arches. It is nearly six miles north-east of Whitehaven, and within three miles of the Irish Sea. It was anciently the principal town in the barony of Copeland or Egremont, and Ward of Allerdale above Derwent, and still retains marks of its an- tiquity and of its former importance as the baro- nial seat and residence of the lords of that great barony. This ancient borough presents a strange contrast to the neighbouring town of Whitehaven; — ^for while the latter, of a modern date, has arisen to opulence and commercial importance ; the former, if it have not retrograded, has remained nearly stationary. About the reign of King John, Richard de Lucy, lord of the barony, granted a charter of certain privileges, containing rules and orders for the burgesses of Egremont. All the other records respecting the privileges of the burgesses are supposed to be lost. By Richard de Lucy's burgage tenure the people of Egi-emont were obliged to find armed men for the defence of the castle, forty days at their own charge. The lord PARISH OF EGREMONT. 23 was entitled to forty days' credit for goods, and no more ; and his burgesses might refuse to supply him, till the debt which had exceeded tliat date was paid. They were bound to aids for the redemption of the lord and his heir from cap- tivity, for the knighthood of one of the lord's sons, and the marriage of one of his daughters. They were to find him twelve men for his mili- tary array. They were to hold watch and ward. They could not enter the forest with bow and arrow, Tiiey were restrained from cutting off their dogs' feet within the borough, as being a necessary and customary defence : on the bor- ders, the dogs appointed to be kept for defence were called sluu^li dogs : this restriction points out, that within the limits of forests, the inhabi- tants keeping dogs for defence were to lop off one foot or more, to prevent their chasing the game ; which did not spoil them for the defence of a dwelling. A singular privilege appears in the case of a burgess committing fornication with the daughter of a rustic, one who was not a burgess, that he should not be liable to the fine imposed in other cases for tliat offence, unless he had seduced by promise of marriage. The fine for seducing a woman l:)clonging to the borough was 3.V, to the lord. By the rule for inspecting the dyers, weavers, and fullers, it seems those were the only trades at that time within the borough under the character of craftsmen. Tlie burgesses who had ploughs were to till the lord's demesne one day in the year, and every burgess to find a reaper : their labour was from morning, ad nonam, which was three o'clock, as from si.x to three.* • Hutchinson. 24 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The charter was as follows : — Sciant tam praesentes quam futuri, quod ego Rickardus de Lucy dedi, et hac prnesenti charta mea confirmavi, burgen- sibus nieis de Acriraonte et horedibus suis, has scilicit sub- scriptas leges, libertates, et consuetudines habendas de me et haeredibus meis ; scilicit, Quod iidem burgenses non dcbent ire extra portas burgi de Acrimonte per alicujus summonitionem nisi ad januam castelli cum domino vel ejus senescallo ad namium capiendum vel stricturam facien- dam intra Coupland. Et sciendam est, quod si werra advenerit, iidem burgenses mei invenient mihi et haeredibus meis 12 homines cum armis suis in castello meo defendendo de Acrimonte per 40 dies ad eorum proprias expensas ; in caeteris vero, pannos et cibos et aliud mercatorium mihi accredent per dies 40 : et si eis debitum suum intra termin- um non persolvero, non teneantur mihi alia mercatoria sua accredere, donee debitum suum reddidero. Item, debent mihi auxilium ad faciendum militem unum de filiis meis : et illud auxilium dabunt ad mai'itandum unam ex filiabus meis. Item, si necesse fuerit ad corpus meum vel haere- dum meorum redimendum, mihi auxilium dabunt. Item, aliud auxilium mihi facient, quando milites terrae meae mihi auxiliabuntur, et illud debet fieri per 12 burgensium. Et dabunt multuram ad molendinum meum, scilicet tertium decimum vas de proprio blado suo ; de blado sue vero empto, dabunt sextum decimum. Item, si quis emerit burgagium, dabit mihi 4 denarios de seisina sua. Item, si quis burgensis sumraonitus fuerit rationabiliter per leges suas veniendi ad placita burgi, et defecerit ; dabit 6 denarios. Item, burgenses mei quieti erunt de pannagio suo, intra divisas suas de porcis suis, scilicet, a Crokerbec usque ad rivulum de Culdertun (salvo maeremio). Et sciendum est, quod si porci sui exeunt praedictas divisas, dabunt mihi pannagium, sc. vicesimum porcum. Et si forte aliquis bur- gensium habeat unum viginti poreos, dabit mihi pro unoquo- quc porco denarium. Et si porci sui venient sine licentia mea in forestam meam Innerdale, dabunt eschapium. Item, vigiliip burgi dcbent incipere a burgensibus; et si quis defecerit in eisdem vigiliis dabit mihi G denarios. Item, si burgensis ceciderit in placito, pro defectu responsi ; dabit 4 denarios domino de forisfacto, et recuperabitplaciturasuum. Item, si convicium apertum dixerit aliquis burgensis vicino suo, dabit domino tres solidos pro forisfacto, si ipse convic- tus fuerit iude. Et si quis percusserit vicinum suum sine PARISH OF EGREMONT. 25 sanguine tracto, dabit domino pro forisfacto tres solidos, si inde convictus fuerit. Et si quis traxerit sanguinem de vicino suo cum armis, dabet domino pro forisfacto 18 solidos, si convictus fuerit. Item, talis est consuetudo burgensiura, et viventinm omnium secundum legem vill», si latrocinium alicui praedictorum imponitur, purgabit se per 36 homines, semel, secundo, tertio, et postea ejectus erit a communione burgi, et omnia catalla sua et domus ejus et omnia quee possidet saisiabuntur in manu domini. Item, si quis ver- beraverit praepositum villa?, dabit domino pro forisfacto dimidiani marcam, si inde convictus fuerit ; et si traxerit sanguinem de eo, quoquo modo fuerit, dabit domino pro forisfacto iSsolidos, si inde convictus fuerit. Item, praeposi- tus debet fieri per electionum burgensium. Item, si aliquis burgensis vendiderit res suas alicui non burgensi, ct ille nolucrit reddere ; licet eidem burgensi capere namium suum intra burgum, sine alicujus liccntia. Item, si aliquis burgen- sis voluerit vendere terram suam, sc. burgagium suum, licet ci vendere et ire libere ubi voluerit. Item, si burgensis eraerit burgagium intra villam ct illc tenucrit per annum et diem absque calumpnia alicujus; terra illircmanebitquieta, nisi aliquis possit monstrare jus suum, et extra regnum fuerit in negotiatione vel pcrogrinatione. Item, si uxor burgensis dixerit aliquod convitium vicinx- sua*, et ilia inde convicta fuerit; dabit domino pro forisfacto 4 denarios. Item, omnes burgenscs et liberi eorum quieti erunt a thco- lonio in toto terra mca de propriis catallis burgensium. Item, licet burgensibus ire in foresta mea de Innerdale, ad mercatoriura suum faciendum, sine arcu et sagittis. Item, si aliquis extraneus venerit in burgum, et sit burgensis per annum et diem sine calumpnia alicujus ; liber deinceps re- manebit, nisi sit de dominico regis. Item, burgcnses non aniputabunt pedes canum suorum intra divisas suas: et si forte aliquis canis sequitur aliqucm burgensera extra divisas suas in via, excepta foresta mea de Innerdale, non calump- niabitur inde a quoquam. Item, burgcnses non placitabunt pro aliqua re ad me pertinente, extra placitum burgi; nisi de foresta mca, et de corona regis. Item, si aliquis (jui vixerit secundum legem villa- iornicatus fuerit cum (ilia alicujus rustici intra burgum ; non dabit mcrchct, nisi cam desponsaverit. Item, siquis burgensis non adificaverit bur- gum suum intra terminum sibi statulum, scilicet intra an- num; dabit domino pro forisfacto 12 denarios. Item, asscssus tinctorii, textorii, fullonici debent fieri per visum 12 burgensium; ct si quis statutum eorum transgressus D 26 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERVVENT. fuerit, dabit domino pro forisfacto 12 denarios, si inde con- victus fuerit. Iteoi, licet burgensibus emere quicquid voluerint intra burgum, et vendere, sine calumpnia alicujus. Item, burgenses qui carucas habent, arabunt mihi uno die, de mane usque ad nonam, annuatira, ad summonitionem prsepositi mei ; et unuraquodque burgagium inveniet unum horainem in autumno ad metendum, et habebunt prandium suum quando arabunt et metent. Et sciendum est, quod pro hoc servitio habebunt coramunem pasturam de Corker- bee usque ad praedictum rivulum de Culdertun, quando praedicta pastura vacua sit a blado et fceno domini. Item, burgenses capiant necessaria ad propria fedificia sua intra praedictas divisas, sine visu forestariorum (salvo niaeremio). Item, sciendum est, quod si forte animalia burgensium transeant ultra rivulum de Culdertun, dabunt in sestate pro decem animalibus unum denarium, et pro quinquies viginti ovibus unum denarium. Hiis testibus; D. abbate de Chal- dra, Eoberto priore de Sancta Bega, Henrico filio Arthur!, Alano filio Ketelli, Willielmo fratre ejus, Hugone filio Sywardi, Alano Benedicto, Gilberto filio Gilborti, Roberto de Haverington, Ado de Landplogh, Eicardo Anketill, Eoberto de Willona. Egremont was anciently a parliamentary borough : it was first summoned in the 23rd Edward I., but was disfranchised on the petition of the burgesses. In the year 1300, Thomas de Multon and Thomas de Lucy claimed to have assize of bread, &c. and the chattels of felons condemned and beheaded throughout the whole land of Copeland; a gallows at Egremont ; a market at that town on Wednesday, and a fair for two days at Lady- day, which market and fair had been gi-anted in 1266. The market, which is now held on Saturday, is a large corn-market, and well supplied with butchers' meat and other provisions. The fair is now held on the 18th of September for cattle, &c. There is another fair on the third Friday in May. PARISH OF EGREMONT. 27 There are also certain great markets or cattle- fairs held oil the market-days in the summer montlis. A com-t-baron for the recovery of debts under 40.?. is held liere, by adjournment, every sixth Friday, under General ^^'yndham, the lord of the barony of Egremont. A court-leet and a customary court are held annually in the spring. The ancient court-room in the castle being de- cayed, they are holden by adjournment, at the King's Arms inn. Two bailiffs and two consta- bles are annually appointed at the court-leet. Tlie ancient office of borough-serjeant is still preserved ; but it is not now an annual appoint- ment : lie summons the juries for the court-baron, court-leet, and coroner's inquests. Gillfoot, a mansion about half a mile north of the town, is the residence of Thomas Hartley, Esq. There are in and near Egremont, a paper-mill, carried on by Messrs. Harrison, Barker, and Co. ; four tan-yards 1 and a thread-mill, worked by Messrs. Gibson and Co. The Church. The church of Egremont was given by AViUiam de Meschines, — who had a gi-ant of the barony from his brother Ranulph, who received it, with the whole county, from \N'illiam the Conqueror, — to the ))riory of Kirkby Begog, (St. Bees,) which was a cell to the mitred abbey of St. Mary, York. It still pays a pension to the church of St. Bees. Edward \T. in the 2nd year of his reign, granted to William Ward and Richard Venables D 2 28 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. one messuage, one garden, and two acres of land in Brisco, in the county of Cumberland, which formerly had been assigned towards the support of a chantry priest in the church of Egremont. And the same king, in the 3rd year of his reign, granted to Henry Tanner and Thomas Bocker, messuages and tenements in the parish of Egremont, in the possession of 18 different per- sons, late belonging to a stipendiary in St. Mary's church of Egi'emont. The benefice is a rectory, in the patronage of General Wyndham. It was valued in the King's Books at 9/. lis.; and was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty at 45/. 15s. lOel. The following ai'e the particulars given in the P^alor Ecclesiasticus, Hen. VIII. : — Egremdd Rectoria EccVie. Edmund' Metcalffe incumbens. Eectoria p'dca. valet in £ s. d. Mansione cum gleba per > annum \ ^ vj1 Decim' granos. & fcni cxs. \ £ «. d. Ian' &agneirx.\s. minut'/ >ix — vj & alijs privat' decim' cu. S viij xv oblac' ut in libro paschal' V xlvs. In tot' J J Eopris' yis. in Annual' pens' priori See. 3 £ s. d. Bege xxijs. sinod' ijs. j<^. > — xxviij vj pcurac' iiij«. \d. ) Et valet clare Xma. ps. inde £ xxviij vj s. d. xij — XV ij ob \\\ 142G, the abbot of St. Mary's presented to this church. Henry, the sixth Earl of Northum- PARISH OF EGREMONT. 29 berland, who died without issue, having given up his estates, manors, and advowsons, to Henry VIII., Queen Mary, in the 4th and 5th Phihp and Mary, returned Inter alia the advowson of the rectory of Egremont to his nephew and successor, Thomas the seventh Earl, But within a few years from this period (in 1569,) Queen Ehzabeth presented to this church. In the year 1673, the Earl of Essex and William Pierpont, Esq. presented ; as did the Duke and Duchess of Somerset, in 16S5 ; and the advowson has since remained in the lords of the barony. List of Rectors. Edmund Metcalfe, occurs 1535. .... Antrobus, occurs, c. 1642. 16 Halscll.* 1673 Richard Tickell.f 1685 Richard Tickell.+ 1692 Henry Ogle. 1700 Thomas Robinson. 1737 Joseph Ritson. 1758 Thomas Jameson, ob. 1776. 1777 Thomas Jameson. 1787 Nicholas Turner. 1789 Robert C. Herbert. Alexander Scott, M. A. 1835 WilMam Henry Leech. This church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a neat edifice, consisting of a nave and chancel, a square • Ejected, in 1CG2, for nonconformity. t Presented by tlic Earl of Essex and William Pierpont, Esq. X Presented by the Duke and Duclicss of Somerset. 30 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. tower at the west end, containing two bells, and a vestry on its north side. The outer walls are plastered ; and the antiquity of the chiu'ch has been carefully disguised by extensive modern alterations. The north and south windows are square ; supplying the places of the narrow lan- cets with which the more correct taste of our ancestors had appropriately lighted the church. On the north wall of the nave is a row of corbels, supposed to mark its original height: the south wall is four feet in thickness. The nave, which is destitute of a middle aisle, has three galleries. Its eastern end is almost the only part of the church which is not disfigured by " the pseudo-restorations, the tasteless im- provements, the wanton and avaricious destruc- tions, and useless, jobbing, re-edifications of the pi'esent [age]." Here, however, are preserved four beautiful lancet Avindows, with slender shafts, and capitals richly ornamented with a profusion of sculptured foliage. On the outside the mould- ings of these windows are enriched with the tooth ornament. The chancel — a mere recess with a rounded east end — is an unsightly projection of a modern date. The tower was repaired and heightened in 1716: it contains two bells; the larger one bears the date 17S8, and the name of the founder ; the other is more ancient, and has a Latin inscription. There is a narrow circular stair-case in its south-west angle. The font is of stone, and of an octagonal figure : it bears marks of antiquity, but is painted. On the north side of the chancel is a mural monument of white marble, with this inscrip- tion : — PARISH OF EGREMONT. 31 Sacred to the memory of THOMAS HARTLEY, Esq., of GUlfoot, •who departed this life, Jan. IGth, 1831, aged 64 years. On the south side, a black marble slab is affixed to the wall, bearing this inscription, partly defaced : — Mr. JAMES POOLE, son of Rowland Poole, Esq., and Bridget his v.ife, and grandson to Sr James Poole, Bart, was Inten'd Nov. '28th, 1725, in the 5th year of his age. Mary his sister an Poole On the wall at the west end of the nave is a marble monument inscribed — Sacred to the memory of JANE BIRLEY, Late of Carleton Lodge, ■who died on the 6th day of September, 18.33, aged 47 years. Her remains were interred at St. Nicholas's chapel, Whitehaven. She bequeathed by her wUl, the interest of Fifty pounds, to be distributed annually on Good Friday, to such poor inhabitanU of this Parish as do not receive any benefit from the Poor Rates. There is here also, a slab inscribed to the memory of several members of a family of the name of Benson. ,.,,-, , oq The rectory-house was rebuilt about Z6 years since by the Rev. Alexander Scott, M.A., the then' rector, who now holds the rectory of Bootle. , , - . At the east end of the church-yard is a sar- Z2 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. cophagus, enclosed with iron rails, on which is inscribed — H . S . E AGNES . SCOTT Quae . Tixit . annos . xlv Decessit . Kal . Mai . MDCCCXXXIV ConJTgi . optvmae Contra . votrm . posuit Alexander . Scott Hyi . Eccl . Min. The Castle. The ruins of this fortress, which was once the seat of the noble and potent lords of the great barony of Copeland or Egi-emont, occupy an eminence about 200 yards to the south-west of the town. Some pai'ts of its walls exhibit indubitable traces of great antiquity, from the occasional introduc- tion of that peculiar kind of masonry known as herringbone ; and, " from the similarity of its arrangement to the grains in an ear of com, sometimes more classically termed, * spicata tes- tacear* * " Herringbone work has been called by some a sign of earl}' work, but others regard it rather as a sign of late Norman. Gmldford castle is late Norman, and has a good deal of herringbone work in its walls. ' Opus reticulatum' is occasionally found in late Norman work, as at the west end of Rochester cathedral. There is also another kind of masonry sometimes found in late Norman work, which appears to be used by way of ornament (as in fact is the ' opus reticulatum' J .... perhaps it may be called herringbone ashlar." — Glossary of Architecture. " This kind of angular masonry is rare in England, where it occurs only in a few courses alternating with horizontal masonry, as in Lincoln City walls, Ciistleton, Colchester, and Guildford Castles, tlie round tower of Bungay Church, and the walls of Cambridge Castle. Mr. Essex sayg * the age of this sort of masonry is not easily ascertained.' It has been PARISH OF EGREMONT. 33 This castle was built about the conclusion of the eleventh century, by Wilham de Meschines, on whom the barony of Copeland was bestowed by his brother, Ranulph, who had received a gi-ant of the whole county from Wilham the Conqueror. From the extreme paucity of any recorded facts connected with its history, we can gather nothing fomiing a connected narrative. Indeed, it appears to have formed a singular exception to the genera] fate of castles situated so near the troubled district of the borders : we have no account of any siege it has undergone ; nor are we informed when it was dismantled and ceased to be the residence of the descendants and suc- cessors of the noble families of Seymour, Percy, Multon, Lucy, and Meschines. The successive lordly possessors of this castle and barony are enumerated in subsequent pages. Egi-emont castle, — of which there are now few remains, but those indicative of gi'eat strength — occupies the summit of a mount apparently arti- ficial, supposed by Mr Hutchinson, in his Excur- sion to tlie Lakes, to have been of Danish origin. The principal remains are, a square tower,* attributed to that of the Komans and Saxons. Morant states, that ' the easternmost wall of Colchester Castle is built in the Roman, i. c. the herring-bone fashion.' Others call it Roman, for no better reason than because they sometimes find it forming part of edifices, which, from their containing Roman bricks, have been supposed to be of Roman origin. It is probable, however, that all sucli buildings were erected by the Sax- ons, with the old materials of the Roman stations to wliich many of their towns succeeded." — Gent. Mag., March, 1834, p. 270. • It is near the foundation where the herringbone work is to be seen : there arc about ten successive courses of it, and not allcmating with ho- rizontal masonry. B 34 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. entered from the south-west by a semi-circular archway with a groined roof; and a part of the wall which probably divided the inner and outer wards, where are two windows, and a gateway with grooves for a portcullis, of a more recent date, with pointed arches. The moat is still to be traced, nearly encircling the castle ; and a stream of water, by which it was formerly sup- plied, flows on the eastern side. The site of the ancient court-room, in which were held the courts of the lords of the barony, is yet distinguishable ; and near it is a cock-pit — the scene of barbarous sports for many years, but now happily abolish- ed. This castle has suffered materially from wanton spohation by boys, until measures were taken for its prevention by the late Earl of Egremont. In 1739, when Buck's view of the castle was taken, considerable remains of a round tower* graced the summit of a hill, on the north side of the ruins, "seventy-eight feet perpendicular height above the ditch :" this tower is mentioned by Mr. Hutchinson, in his Excursion to the Lakes (1776,) as having fallen down "some few years ago." • The round towers in Ireland and Scotland are always situated near a church, although detached, and they unquestionably date from a very early period. Of the ecclesiastical round towers in Suffolk and Norfolk, Mr. Gage observes (Archa;ologia, vol. xxiii.) that they exhibit "pure Norman architecture, or the Circular style, highly finished in some, and plainer in others, until it became more or less mixed with the English or Pointed ; and with surprise I found the early pointed style prevalent in a great many. There was but one tower which I conceived might rank higher in antiquity than the twelfth century, and that one not being earlier than the Norman time. None could properly be said to be doubtful in the date of their construction ; though some were so mutilated and altered that the original chaiacter was lost." PARISH OF EGREMONT. 35 Nicolson and Bum give no description of the ruins as seen when they wrote, about 1774 ; but, bv a strange anachronism, the Messrs. Lysons, m their Magna Britannia (IS 16,) represent con- siderable portions of the round tower as then standing. Mr. Hutchinson also states, as above, (and thTs is copied by the compiler of that Histo- ry of Cumberland to which that gentleman's name has been appended,) that "on the side next the town a i)ostern is standing." There may probably have been a Roman station or encampment here, as a Roman road Irom Element castle to Cockermouth "passed in a direct line through the Town-head and the Wood-end estates, in the parish of Egi-emont; through the Cleator-hall estate, and close by the villa^'e of Cleator ; through the estate of lod- holes, in which it is now (1815) digging up and part of the Warth estate, in the parish ot Cleator; through the parish of Arlochden and township of Frisington ; through the parish ot Lami)lugh, and close by Lamplugh Cross and Street-gate, and approaches Cockemouth in a straight line. The road is eighteen feet wde, and formed of cobbles and freestone, all seemingly gathered from the adjacent grounds."* The Barony of Egremont, Anciently called the barony of Copeland was included in the grant of Cumberland, by Wilham the Conciueror, to Ranulph de Meschmes who bestowed it on his brother, WiUiam de Meschmes, • Lysons. E 2 36 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Earl of Cambridge. We have already stated (pages 2, 3,) some particulars respecting this barony ; and its successive lords are given in the following pages. Lords of tue Barony of Egremont. De Meschines. Arms : — Or, a lion rampant, his tail erected, gules. William de Meschines received this barony by grant from^ his brother Ranulph, as before stated, pp. 2 and 35. He left, at his death, an only daughter, Alice, married to Robert de Romley, lord of the honor of Skipton in Craven. De Romley. Arms: — Robert de Romley, lord of the honor of Skipton in Craven, succeeded to the lordship of the barony of Egremont, in right of his wife, Alice, daughter of the above William de Meschines. He had issue a daughter, Alice, married to William Fitz-Duncan. Fitz-Duncan. Arms : — William Fitz-Duncan, Earl of Murray, nephew of David, king of Scots, being the son of his brother Duncan, by Ochthreda, his wife, sister and heiress of Waldieve, son of Alan, son of Waldieve, first lord of AUerdale, who was the son of Gospatrick, Earl of Dunbar, (see page 2.) William Fitz-Duncan had issue by the said Alice his wife, William, who died an infant, and three daughters coheiresses, 1. Cicely, was married to William le Gros, Earl of Al- bemarle, and had issue only a daughter named Hawise, who was married to three husbands successively ; first, to William de Mandevill Earl of Esse.x, to whom she had no child; secondly, to William deFortibus; and thirdly, to Baldwin Beton, Earl of the Isle of Wight. PARISH OF EGREMONT. 37 To her second husband, William de Fortibus, who in her right assumed the title of Earl of Albemarle, she had a son, William de Fortibus, who had issue the third William de Fortibus ; whose daughter and heir, Aveline, (wife to Edmund Crouchback, brother of Edward I.) dying without issue, the third part of William Fitz-Duncan's lands (which was Skipton in Craven) came to the king's hands, and by king Edward II. was granted to Robert de Clifford, in exchange for the Clillbrd's lands in the county of Monmouth, in whose posterity it still remains. 2. Amabil, the seconddaughter of William Fitz Duncan, had for her part of the inheritance this barony of Egremont ; and was married to Reginald Lucy, of whom hereafter, as lord of Egremont. 3. Alice, third daughter and coheiress of William Fitz Duncan, was married to Gilbert Pippard, who was justice-itinerant in Wiltshire in the 23rd Hen. IT., and afterwards was married to Robert Courtney; but had no issue of her body : wherefore her part of her father's inheritance (which was the liberty of Cockerraouth, Aspatric, and the barony of Aller- dale below Derwent) was divided between the Earl of Albemarle her eldest sister's husband, and Richard de Lucy her other sister's son. And so it contiuued divided until the eldest sister's issue was extinguished by the death of Aveline aforesaid, daughter of the last William de Fortibus; after whose death, all the Romley's lands, both above and below Derwent, came wholly to the heirs of Reginald Lucy and Amabil Romley his wife, second daughter to the said William Fitz Duncan. Lucy. .Arms: — Gules, three lucies, hauriant, argent. Reginald Lucy, whose parentage Dugdale declares his inability to discover, married, as stated above, Amabil Fitz- Duncan. During the rebellion of the Earl of Leicester, in the reign of Henry II., he was governor of Nottingham for the king; and he was present at the coronation of Richard I. By his wife, Amabil, he had issue, his successor, Richard Lucy, who granted the charter to the burgcs- 38 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. ses of Egremont (see page 24). In the 1st of King John he paid a fine to the crown of three hundred marks for hvery of his lands, and licence to marry with whom he should think proper. In four years afterwards, he paid five marks and one palfrey to the king, that he might have jurors to inquire what customs and services his tenants had used to perform, and to do, him and his ancestors for their lands in Coupland. And the same year he obtained a grant from the king to himself and Ada, his wife, daughter and coheir of Hugh de Morvill, of the forestership of Cumberland. The next year he paid nine hiuidred marks, and five palfreys, to have livery of the property of the said Ada, and to enjoy the forestership of Cumberland as amply as Hugh de Morvill had it, without any partition whatsoever. He died on or before the 15th of King John, for then Ada, his widow, gave a fine of five hundred marks for livery of her inheritance ; as also for her dowry of his lands, and that she might not be compelled to marry again. She espoused without compulsion, however, and without the king's licence, Thomas de Multon, in consequence of which the castle of Egrement, and her other lands, were seized by the crown. But upon paying a compensation they were restored, and she had livery of them again. Her first husband, Richard de Lucy, left two daughters, his coheirs, who became wards to her second husband, on his payment of 1000 marks to the crown, and were married to his sons. Araabil espoused the eldest son, Lambert, and conveyed to him the lordship of Egremont ; Alice was married to the younger, Alan, and their son, Thomas de Mul- ton, assumed the surname of his maternal family, and was ancestor of the barons Lucy of Cockermouth. Multon. Arms: — Argent, three bars gules. Thomas de Multon, lord of Multon, co. Lincoln, before his marriage with Ada, widow of the above Richard Lucy, in the 17th King John, being in arms with the rebellious barons, was taken prisoner and confined in Corfe castle ; but on the accession of Henry III. he obtained his liberty and restitution of his lands. Three years after his marriage, he paid 100/. fine to the king, and one palfrey for the office of forester of Cumberland, it being the inheritance of Ada, PARISH OF EGREMONT. 39 his wife. In the 1 7th of Henry III., he was sheriff of Cum- berland, and remained in office for several succeeding years Moreover, he was one of the Justices of the kmg s Court ot the Common Pleas, from the 8th Henry TIL, and a justice itinerant for divers years, from the 9th of the same reign Matthew I'aris says of him, "In his youth he was a stout soldier, afterwards very wealthy, and learned m the laws ; but overmuch coveting to enlarge his possessions, which lay contiguous to those of the monks of Crowland, he did them great wrong in many respects." . . i „j By his fi?st wife he had issue as above stated ; and the issue of his second marriage were— Thomas, ancestor of the Multons of Gilsland; ana Julian, married to Robert le Vavasour. He died in 1240, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Lambert de Multon, who, as before stated, married Ama- bil eldest daughter and coheiress of Richard Lucy. In the vear 1216, he obtained an extraordinary privilege from the pope, that no one should have the power to excommunicate h°m but by a special mandate from his holiness. But he To had this liberty, says Matthew Pans, to sin vv.thout punishment, and to do injury to others, ridmg with rich Kpn^s very proudly, from a trial at law no sooner 1 ightel from his horse, but (meritmg ^od's judgmcn was suddenly smitten with a grievous disease, of wluch falling to the ground, he died before his spurs could be taken off, bcini then at his house at Multon, in Lincolnshire. By his fi?st wife he had a son, Thomas, his successor. He espoused econd ly, Ida, widow of GeollVey de Oilli, but had no issue. His death occurred in 1247, when he was succeeded by his son, Thomas de Multon, designated " of Egremont; who in the 49th Henry HI., was in arms against his sovereign. In the 22nd Edward I., he had a grant of free warren in all his demesne lands at Egremont. I le nwricd and dying in 1294, was succeeded by his son, ihomas. Thomas de Multon, son and heir, was summoned to par- liament from 27th Edward I., 1299, to 14th Edward II., 1320 after the 1st Edward II. with the addition of "de Tcrrpmund " He was previously summoned in tlie ioin E&d I. • but, says Nicolas, it is doubtful if that writ was a regular summons to parliament. He was much engaged 40 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. in the Scottish wars. Lord Multon died in 1322, and was succeeded by John de Multon, son and heir, second baron, who was summoned to parliament from 6th Edward III., 1332, to 8th Edward III., 1334, as " Johanni de Multon." He married Annabel, daughter and heiress of Laurence de Holbeche ; but dying without issue, in 1 334, his estates, including the manors of Thurstaneston, in Suffolk, and Egrcmout and Cockermouth, in Cumberland, were divided amongst his three sisters, thus, viz. — Joane, wife of Robert, Baron Fitz-Walter, had for her share the castle of Egremont, with the third part of that manor, and the third part of other manors. Elizabeth, married to Robert, eldest son of Sir John de Harrington, of Harrington, knight,* ("oi. v.p.jhad certain lands at Gosforth, parcel of the manor of Egremont, and a proportion of other manors. Margaret, married Thomas, Lord Lucy, had certain lands in Cumberland, and parcel of the manor of Egre- mont, besides a proportion of other estates. Among their descendants and representatives, the barony of Multon, of Egremont, is now in abeyance. Thus, says Mr. John Denton, "this barony was broken into parts, which from the conquest had continued entire, except Lowes-water, and the lands between Cocker and Derwent, and the five towns granted to Waldeof, as aforesaid ; but now of late, it is re-united by the Earls of Northumberland, who are lords thereof, by gift and purchase but not by descent from any of the coheirs." Thomas, Lord Lucy, second baron, who married one of the sisters and coheiresses of the last male heir of the Mul- tons of Egremont, as stated above, had issue by her, Anthony, who succeeded as third baron. Maud, or Matilda, who was twice married ; firstly, to Gilbert de Umfraville, Earl of Angus; who died s.p. ; and secondly, to Henry Percy, first Earl of Northum- berland. Upon the marriage of this lady, then sole heiress of the Barons Lucy, with the Earl of Northum- berland, it was stipulated that the castle and honor of Cockermouth, part of her inheritance, should be settled upon the earl and herself, and the heirs male • Kicolas and Buike say, Walter de Beimichan. PARISH OF EGREMOXT. 41 of tlieir two bodies; failing which, upon the heirs of ber bod)' ; and in case she should die without issue, then upon Henry, Lord Percy, the carl's son and heir by his first wife, and the heirs male of his body, upon condition that the said Henry and his heirs male should bear the arms of Percy quarterly with the arms of Lucy, viz. "gules, three lucios, ar.," in all shields, banners, ice. The said Maud died without issue. Thomas, Lord Lucy, died in 1365, and was succeeded by his sou Anthony, Anthony, Lord Lucy, tliird and last baron, was never summoned to parliament. He was joined with Roger de Clill'ord in the guardianship of "the marches towards Cum- berland and Westmorland." He died in 1368, leavinj; by Joane, his wife, widow of William, Lord Greystoke, an infant daughter who died in the following year, when the above ^laud. Countess of Angus, succeeded to the barony of Lucy and the honor of Cockermouth, with the other estates. Percy. Arms : — Quarterly, four grand quarters: first and fourth, or, a lion rampant, az. (being the ancient arms of the Duke q/' Brabant and Lovciin ;) second and third, gu. three lucies, or pikes, haurient, ar. for Lticy : second grand quarter, az. five fusils, in fesse, or, for Pcrci/ ; third, gu. on a saltier, ar. a rose of the field, barbed and seeded proper for ^M'tvYfc.- fourth, quarterly gu. and or, in the first quarter a mullet ar. for P''crc. Crest: — On a chapeau gules, a lion passant azure. Supitorters: — On the dc.\ter side, a lion azure; on the sinister, an unicorn argent, collared gobone, or and azure. Motto : — Esperance en Dieu. The illustrious family of Percy, says Burke,* is descended from one of the Norman chieftains (William de Percy) who accompanied William the Conqueror into England in 1066; and it derivi's its name from the village of Percy, near Ville- dieu. The family of Percy, of Normandy, deduced its pedi- gree from Geoffrey, (son of Maiufred, a Danish chicdain,) • Extinct Peerage. F 42 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. who assisted Rollo, in 912, in subjugating that principality, and aquiring considerable possessions there. Henry Percy, fourth Lord Percy of Alnwick, Earl Marshal, was advanced to the Earldom of Northumberland, on the day of the coronation of Richard II. in 1377 ; and was made K.G. in the 7th Richard II. He was appointed Lord High Constable for life, in 1399. By his first wife, Margaret, daughter of Ralph, Lord Nevill of Raby, he had issue, Sir Henry, K.G. the gallant and renowned Hotspur, who married Philippa, daughter of Edmund Mortimer, Earl of March. Ho fell at the battle of Shrewsbury, in 1403, during the life-time of his father, leaving issue, Henry, who succeeded as second Earl. Elizabeth, married firstly, to John Lord Cliffoid ; and secondly to Ralph Nevill, second Earl of Westmorland. Sir Thomas, who married a daughter and coheiress of the Earl of Athol. Sir Ralph, who married the other daughter and co- heiress. Alan. Margaret. The Earl married secondly, Maud, sister and heiress of Anthony, Lord Lucy, as stated above. Some years after- wards, however, being proclaimed a traitor, and his lands declared forfeited by King Richard, his lordship, in conjunc- tion with his son, Sir Henry Percy, surnamed Hotspur, and Henry, Duke of Lancaster, accomplished the dethronement of that monarch, and placed the crown upon the head of Henry Duke of Lancaster, under the title of Henry IV. The Earl of Northumberland fell (in 1407-8) in arms against that king in assisting to place whom on the throne he had been so eminently conspicuous ; when his honors became forfeited under an attainder, but wore restored in 1414, to his grandson, only son of the valiant Hotspur. Henry Percy, second Earl of Northumberland, married the lady Eleanor Nevill, widow of Richard, Lord Spencer, and daughter of Ralph Nevill, first Earl of Westmorland, K.G. His lordship was made Lord High Constable by Henry VI. ; he was present at the battle of Agincourt; and fell at St. Albans, 23rd May, 1455, fighting under the banner of that monarch. Of the issue of this Earl the following curious account is given in a MS. in the British Museum, PARISH OF EGREMONT. 43 stated to be extracted "Ex Registro Monastery de Whit- 7„,e."_"OfthisAlianorhiswite,he begat IX sonncs and III daughters, ^vhose names be Johanne, that is buried at Whitbye; Thomas (created) Lord Egremont; Kathcyne Gray, of Euthyn, (wife of Edmund Lord Gray, afterwards Earl of Kent) ; Sir Kaffc Percy ; Wilham Percy, a byshopp* ; Richard Percy; John, that dyed without issue; another John (called hy Vince;it, in his MS. baronage m the herald's office', John PerV, senior', of Warkworth) ; George Percy clerk- Henry, that dyed without issue; besides the eldest sonne'and successor, Henry , third Erie of Northumberland." He was succeeded by his eldest survivmg son, Henry Percy, third Earl, who had married Eleanor, daughter and solo heiress of Richard Poynings, who died in the life-time of his father. Lord Poynings ; by which marriage, the baronies of Poynings,Fitzpayne, and Bryan, came in o the family of Percy ; and Sir Henry Percy was summoned to parliament, while his father, theEarlof Northumberland, yet ived, (■29th Henry VI.,) as Baron Poynmgs. His ordship fell leading the van of the Lancastrians, sword in hand at the' battle of Towton, on the 29th March, 1461, and his honors became subsequently forfeited, by an act of attainder, but were restored to his only son, Henrv Percy, fourth Earl, K.G. who was confined in the Tower from the death of his father until \\G9, when he was restored to his freedom and dignity. He married Maud, daughter of the Lord Herbert, and had issue iour sons and three daughters. He was slain in a not at his house at Cox- lodge, CO York, 28th April, 1489, having rendered himself unpopular by the discharge of his duties as ord lieutenant of the county in levying a tax for the king's service. His lordship was buried at Beverley, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Henry-Algernon Percy, fifth earl, K.G , who married Catherine, daughter and coheiress of Sir Kobert Spencer, Kn tof Spencer-Combe, Devon, by Eleanor, his wife, daugl^tcr, and at length coheir, of Edmund Beaufort, Duke of Somerset, by whom he had issue, Ilcnrti, his successor. . „^ , tt Thomas (Sir) , executed for Ask's conspiracy, 29th Henry Vni., leaving two sons, • Bishop of Carlisle, 1452—1462. ' F 2 44 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Thomas, ? successively Earls of Northumbcr- Henrij, \ land. Ingelram (Sir). Margaret, married to Heury Cliflford, first Earl of Cum- berland. Maud, married to Lord Coniers. His lordship died ia 1527, and was succeeded by his eldest sou, Henry-Algernon Percy, sixth earl, K.G. This nobleman married Mary, daughter of George Talbot, Earl of Shrews- bury ; but dying without issue, in 1537, and his brother, Sir Thomas Percy, having been previously attainted and executed, all the honors of the family became forfeited, and the Duke- dom of Northumberland was conferred by King Edward VI., upon John Dudley, Earl ol Warwick; but that nobleman having forfeited his life and honors, by treason against Queen Mary, in 1553, her majesty was pleased to advance, by letters patent, Thomas Percy, seventh earl, K.G. son of the attainted Sir Thomas Percy (second son of the fifth Earl.) He was created by letters-patent, bearing date 30th April, 1557, Baron Percy, of Cockermouth and Petworth, Baron Poyn- ings, Lucy, Bryan, and Fitz-Payne; and on the following day Earl of Northumberland. His lordship married Anne, daughter of Henry Somerset, second Earl of AVorccster, by whom he had issue. He was made Lord Warden of the marches ; but being concerned in the rebellion with the Earl of Westmorland, he was attainted in 1571, and beheaded at York, in the following year. Henry Percy, eighth carl, brother and heir, succeeded, notwithstanding the attainder of his brother, in consequence of the special entail to him in the patent. He married Katherine, eldest daughter and coheiress of John Nevill, Baron Latimer, by whom he had a numerous family. He remained loyal during the defection of his brother, but falling under suspicion of favouring the cause of Mary, Queen of Scots, he was confined in the Tower, where he was found dead in his bed, having been shot through the heart, 21st June, 1585. Henry Percy, ninth earl, K.G., son and heir, married Dorothy, sister of the Earl of Essex, and widow of Sir Thomas Perrot, knight, by whom he had issue. Although PAHISH OF EGREMONT. 45 he was a Protestant, yet having a kinsman, Henry Percy, concerned in the gunpowder plot, he fell under suspicions of treason, and, like his predecessor, was confined in the Tower, and sentenced to pay a fine of 30,000/. By a singular coin- cidence, his death occurred on the anniversary of the day which had cost him so much trouble, — 3th November, 1632. Algernon Percy, tenth earl, K.G., son and heir, succeeded his father, lie was twice married ; firstly, to Anne, daugh- ter of William Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, and secondly, to Eliza- beth, daughter of Theophilus Howard, Earl of Suffolk, the mother of his heir, and through whom he became possessed of Northumberland House, Charing Cross, built by Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton. His lordship died, 13th October, 1668, and was succeeded by his only son, Josceline Percy, eleventh earl, who married Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, by wliom he had an only daughter, Elizabeth. The earl died, 21st May, 1G70, aged 26. The Lady Elizabeth Percy, his solo daughter and heiress, married, 1682, Charles Seymour, sixth duke of Somerset, of whom hereafter. Seymour. ArnU: — Quarterly, first and fourth, or, on a pile gules between six fleur-de-lis, az. three lions of England, (being the coat of augmentation, granted by Henry VUI., on his marriage with Jane Seymour,) second and third gu. two wings conjoined in lure, tips downwards, or. Charles Seymour, sixth Duke of Somerset, K.G., married the sole heiress of the last Earl of Northumberland, by whom he had issue, Algernon, who was summoned, on the death of his mother, as Baron Percy, and afterwards succeeded as Duke of Somerset. ^^^V \ died unmarried. Charles, S Elizabeth, married to Henry O'Brien, Earl of Thomond, oh. s. p. Katherine, married to Sir William Wyndham, Bart., and had issue, 46 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Charles, second Earl of Egremont, of whom here- after. Percy O'Brien, created Earl of Thomond, who died unmarried. Frances, died unmarried. Anne, married Peregrine Osborn, Marquess of Carirar- then, and afterwards Duke of Leeds. The Duke married secondly, Charlotte, daughter of Daniel Finch, Earl of Winchelsea, and had two daughters, Frances, married to John Manners, the celebrated Marquess of Granby, and was mother of Charles, fourth Duke ol Rutland. Charlotte, married Heneage Finch, Earl of Aylesford. His Grace who was known as " the proud Duke," died in 1748, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Algernon Seymour, seventh Duke, who married Frances Thynne, grand-daughter of Thomas, first Viscount Wey- mouth, by whom he had issue, Elizabeth, married to Sir Hugh Smithson, Bart., after- wards created Duke of Northumberland, K.G., grand-father of the present Duke, George, who died vita patris, unmarried. On the 2nd October, 1749, he was created Baron "VVark- worth and Earl of Northumberland, with remainder to his son-in-law. Sir Hugh Smithson, Bart, aforesaid; and the next day, he was created Baron Cockermouth and Earl of Egremont, with remainder to the sons (Charles and Percy, aforesaid) of his sister the Lady Katherine Wyndham. He died 7th February, 1750, when the Dukedom of Somerset descended to the heir-male, Edward, and the Earldoms of Egremont and Northumberland, according to their respective limitations. Wyndlutm. Arms. — Azure, a chevron, between three lions' heads, erased, or. Crest: — A lion's head, erased, within a fetterlock, or. SujfjJOrters : — On the dexter side, a lion rampant azure, winged invertedly or ; on the sinister side, agriphon, argent, gutte de sang. Motto : — Au Ion droit. The family of Wyndham, which is traced back to the time PARISH OF EGREMONT. 47 of the Conquest, is of Saxon origin. Ailwardus de Wymond- ham, being possessed of lands at Wymondham, now Wynd- ham, CO. Norfolk, soon after that period assumed that surname from his possessions. On the death of Algernon, seventh Duke of Somerset, who was created Earl of Egremont and Baron Cockermouth, which occurred 7th February, 1750, those titles devolved on Charles 'Wyndham, second earl, son of Sir William Wynd- ham, third Baronet, M.P. (Master of the Buck Hounds to Queen Anne, and Chancellor of the Exchequer, 1713,) by his wife, Katherine, daughter of Charles, sixth Duke of Somerset. Sir William died 17th July, 1740. Ilislordship was bom in 1710; was Secretary of State, 1761 ; and Lord Lieutenant of Cumberland and Sussex. He married l'2th March, 1751, Almeria, sister of George Carpenter, first Earl of Tyrconnel and by her (who remarried in 1767, Count Bruhl, of Saxony, and died \79iJ had issue, George O' Bricn, his successor. Elizabeth Alicia ^laria, married Henry Herbert, first Earl of Carnarvon. Frances, married Charles Marsham, first Earl of Romney. Percy Charles. Charles William, married, firstly, Anne Barbara Fran- ces, daughter of George Bussey Villiers, fourth Earl of Jersey, and widow of William Henry Lambton, Esq. William Frederick, married firstly, Frances Hartford, daughter of Frederick Calvert, Lord Baltimore ; and secondly, Julia de Smorsewski, Countess de Spy- terki : by the first marriage he had issue, George Francis, captain ll.N.married Jane, daugh- ter of the Rev. William Roberts, Vice-Provost of Eton College. Frances, married William Aliller, Esq. Laura, married the Rev. Charles Boultbee. This Earl, while a commoner, represented the borough of Cockermouth in one parliament, chosen 21st George II. On the 30th April, 1751, his lordship took the oaths before the king, at St. James', as Lord-Lieutenant and Custos- Rotulorum of the county of Cumberland. His lordship died 21st August, 1763, and was succeeded in his titles by his son, George O'Brien Wyndham, third Earl, F.R.S. and F.S.A. 48 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. who was born, 18th December, 1751, and educated at Eton. His majesty George II. was sponsor at his baptism. On the death of Charles, Duke of Eichmond, his lordship was appointed Lord-Lieutenant of Sussex, 6th November, 1819. He executed that important office until, in 1835, his increasing infirmities compelled him to resign it. Duruig the two following years, his health rapidly declined, until his death, which occurred at the advanced age of 85, 11th No- vember, 1837, at Petworth. His lordship's remains were deposited on the 21st, in a vault built by himself at Petworth. The Earl of Egremont was distinguished no less for the princely style of magnificence in which his correct taste patronized the fine arts, than for the countless acts of charity and liberality which brought down upon him the blessings of the needy living in the neighbourhood of his palace — the " princely Petworth," described as " the temple of the noblest productions of genius, of whatever the scholar, the sculptor, and the painter could produce." Had he not been possessed of a splendid fortune, with a rental, of late years, of 81,000/. per annum, his liberal spirit could not have derived enjoy- ment from dispensing during the last sixty years of his life the immense sum of 1,200,000/. in acts of charity and libe- rality. By a lady, now deceased, who bore the name of Mrs. Wyndham, (daughter of the Rev lliff, of Westminster school,) the Earl had issue, George, a Colonel in the army. Henry, a Major-Geueralinthearmy, of whom hereafter, as lord of Egremont. Charles, a Colonel in the army. Frances, married to Sir Charles Merrick Burrell, Bart., and has issue. Mary, married to George, Earl of Munster, eldest son of his late Majesty, William IV., and has issue. . . . . , married to John King, Esq. The Earl left by will, Petworth, and the adjoining estates, to Colonel George W^yndham, his lordship's eldest son ; the Cumberland estates, to Major-General Wyndham, the second son ; to Colonel Charles Wyndham, the youngest son, the whole of his funded property, amounting to about 220,000/. To each of his daughters he left 45,000/. An excellent portrait of the noble Earl, is engraved in mezzotinto, by Reynolds, from a painting by T. Phillips, Esq., R.A. ; a smaller copy of the same is in Fisher's " Na- tional Portrait Gallery." PARISH OF EGREMONT. 49 The present Earl, George Francis, his lordship's nephew, being the son of the Hon. Frederick William Wyndham, (see p. 47, born 30th August, 1785,) succeeded to the old family estate of Orchard-Wyndham, co. Somerset, and others in Cornwall and Devonshire.* Major-General Henry Wyndham, second son of George, third Earl of Egremont, succeeded, on the death of his father, in 1837, to the lordship of the barony of Egremont, and the honor of Cockennouth, with other his estates in Cumberland. General Wyndham is one of that annually- decreasing number of field-officers who were present at the brilliant achievements which have immortalized the field of Waterloo. His Cumberland residence is Cockermouth castle — a baronial fortress supposed to have been built soon after the Conquest, — the seat of the lords of Allerdale, and whose history is closely connected with that of Egre- mont, having been possessed by William de Meschines, Fitz-i)uncan, the Lucys, the Multons, the Percys, the Seymours, and the Wyndhams. Charities. The National School. — This school, which is chiefly supported by voluntary subscriptions, affords education to about 65 children. The present master is l\Ir. John Walker. It has an endowment of about 3/. per annum. The Rev. Thomas Benn's Chariti/, — The Rev. Thomas Benn, who died vicar of Milloni, in 17 13, becjueathed the interest of 251. to be given in bread to the poor, in the parish church of Egre- mont ; this charity, however, is now lost. Mm. Jane Birley's Chanty. — Mrs. Jane Birley, ofCarleton Lodge, who died in 1833, left by • For the above particulars respecting the late Earl of Egremont I am mainly indebted to the Gentleman's Magazine, Jan. 1838 ; tlic peerages of Collins, Sharpe, and Burke, have supplied great portions uf the pedi- grees of the former families. G 50 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERVVENT. >vill the interest of 50/. to be distributed annually on Good Friday to the poor of the parish who are not receiving parochial relief. ri)e Warieft of (JTUator. HE parish of Cleator,— ; anciently called Kekejl- terr, from the rivulet Ke- ]^el], — extends about three miles from north to south, and one and a half from \m:^^Y.^/^jmMM. ^^'^^ ^^ ^'^^*" ^^ adjoins (^^Jf^^^^S^ the parishes of St. Bees, ^^^^^^^^^m Egremont, and Arlecdon, ^^^^^M^ and the chapelry of Enner- dale This parish claims (with Egremont) an extensive right of common on Dent Hill— an eminence on the opposite or left bank ol tlie A^Roman road, from Egremont castle to Cockermouth, passed through the Cleator hall estate, and close by the village, through the cs ate of Todholes, (in which it was dug up m IblJ,) and part of the ^Vath estate. The road was described as eighteen feet in width, and was formed of cobbles and freestone, all apparently crathered from the adjacent grounds, (see page 35 ") iviajor-General Wyndham is lord of the manor of Cleator common. . ^ ,1 e The exhausted iron mme at Crowgarth was worked from 17^1 to about the Y^ar ISIU For a short time it yielded annually upwards of 20 ()0) tons of ore, which was chiefly shipped for Hull, G 2 52 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. and the Carron foundry, in Scotland. It was raised from the depth of twelve fathoms ; the thickness of the band, which was a superior kid- ney ore, was about twenty-four feet. In this parish is a lake ; one of the islands with which its surface is studded, is remarkable for being the resort of a species of sea-gull, called the Blackcap, whose nests are so numerous, that it is a difficiilt matter to walk here in breeding time, without crushing the eggs. Near the village of Cleator is Flosh, a modern handsome mansion, in the ancient style, erected about 1832, the seat of T. H. Ainsworth, Esq. The Manor. Cleator is mentioned in an ancient chronicle as a manor belonging, in 1315, to the monastery of St. Bees ; at which time, James Douglas, with a party of Scots, burned the manor house.* The manor was enfranchised in or before the reign of Henry VIII.: in the 35th Henry VIII., on an inquisition of knights' fees in Cumberland, it was found that the free tenants of Cleator held jointly the manor of Cleator of the king in cap'ite as of his castle of Egi-emont, by the ninth part of one knight's fee, rendering homage and suit of court, and \2d. seawake. The Church Was wholly appropriated to the abbey of St. Mary at Calder. It does not occur in the Valor * Lysoos.— Sec Leland's Collectanea, i. 24. PARISH OF CLEATOR. 53 Ecclesiastkm of Henry VIII. ; and m licenses to the curates it was anciently called the chapel ot St. Leonard de Cleator. The original endow- ment was seven marks per annum. ^ It was certified to the governors of Queen Ann s bounty of the clear annual value of 6/. 13.. 4r/ viz. 4/. 13s Ad. from the impropriator, and 21. pension from the crown, arising from the property ot the kni'-hts of St. John of Jerusalem. In 1 1 02 IVlr. John Robertson had the impropriation and pa- tronage. It subsequently passed to the Cxales, and is now in the impropriation and patronage of Thomas Richmond Gale Braddyll, bsq., ol Conishead priory, Lancashire. The registers commence in 1572. We have no more perfect hst of the incum- bents of this parish than the following :— Incumbents. 1728 John Stamper. 1730 Peter Richardson. 1731 Joseph Dixon. 1755 T. Brocklebank. 1761 Jennings 1762 John Lowther. 1763 William Stockdale. 1764 H. Nicholson. 1765 Aarey. 1769 Joseph Harrison. 1769 Ralph Tuasdale. 1770 John Fisher. 1772 H. Mossop. 1822 John Brunt. The church of Cleator is an ancient building. 54 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. in a most damp and dilapidated condition. It consists merely of a nave and chancel, of equal height, with a bell-turret and a porch at its western end. The turret carries two bells. The windows are modem, excepting one on the south side of the chancel, which is square-headed, of two lights. The chancel arch is pointed. The top of a beautiful cross is built in the south wall, w^hich, until of late years, enriched the apex of the gable of a south porch,now destroyed. There was formerly another cross on the east end of the chancel. A new church is now (1841) about to to be erected. Ct)e {^art0l) of f^alc. |HE parish of Hale extends about four miles from east to west, and one mile and a half from north to south. It contains the joint townships of Hale with Wilton ; and is bound- ed by the parishes of Eg- remont, St. John's, St. Bridget's, and St. Bees. It includes a few of the houses in the village of Beckermet. This parish was enclosed under an act of par- liament passed in ISll, by which, lands were allotted to the Earl of Lonsdale, as impropriator of the tithes. The Manor. This manor was granted soon after the Con- quest, with Gosfortli, Bolton, and Stainton, to Thomas Multon of Gilsland. It was subsequently poss'essed by a family who took their name from the place : in tlic reign of Henry HI. it was held by Alexander de Hale; and in the 23rd Ed- ward I., Agnes and Constance, his daughters, held it of Thomas de Multon. In an inquisition post mortem of John de Multon in the reign of Edward II., the name of Christian appears as the proprietor. 56 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Agnes, one of the coheiresses of the ahove Alexander de Hale, brought her moiety to the Ponsonbys ; and they eventually became possess- ed of the remainder. The Ponsonbys of Hale were originally of Ponsonby, where they are to be traced before the reign of Edward H. At an earUer period, the first of the family of whom we find any mention was called Ponson, and his son, Fitz-Ponson. Two younger brothers of the Ponsonbys of Hale, Sir John and Henry, went into Ireland in 1649, with Oliver Cromwell, who had been appointed to reduce that country. Sir John, the elder brothei', was ancestor of the noble famihes of Besborough and Ponsonby ; and Henry of the Ponsonbys of Crotto, in Ireland. The arms of Ponsonby are. Gules, a chevron between three combs argent. Miles Ponsonby, Esq. died lord of this manor in 1814 ; it is now the property of his grandson. Miles Ponsonby, Esq. who resides at Hale hall. Hale Hall. This Hall was formerly " a commodious and pleasant mansion," and has for many ages been the residence of the ancient family of Ponsonby : it is now the seat of Miles Ponsonby, Esq. lord of the manor. The Church. The church of Hale was appropriated, in 1345, by the archdeacon of Richmond, to the priory of Conishead, in Lancashire, reserving to himself a yearly pension of 61. 8s. The benefice is not included in the Valor Ecclesiastkus of Henry VIII. PARISH OF HALE. 57 It was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty, by the Lord Viscount Lonsdale, at 11. It is a perpetual cui'acy, in the patronage of the Earl of Lonsdale, who is impropriator of the tithes, to whom lands were allotted on the inclo- sure of the commons. It is charged 3s. 4r/. spiodals, and Qs. Sd. procurations, to be paid by the impropriator. The present incumbent is the Rev. John Vicars. The church is a plain building, chiefly remark- able for its beautiful and secluded situation, at some httle distance from the \illage. H ^fic 5Jari0ft of fM;orf06p OMPRISES two townships, Moresby and Parton, and contains about three square miles, extending a mile and a half in length and breadth. It is bounded on the south, W by the township of White- ' haven ; on the west, by the sea ; on the north, by the parishes of Harrington and Distington ; and on the east, by Arlecdon. Ac- cording to INIr. John Denton, Moresby derives its name from one Maurice or Moris, a Welshman, " who first seated himself there ; the ruins of whose mansion-house, yet appearing, approves the same." One of his family gave lands in Moresby to the abbey of St. Mary, Holme- Cultram. The commons were enclosed about the year 1774 ; since which time the land in this parish has been greatly improved by careful cul- tivation. The village of Moresby, which was described about fifty years ago, as consisting of " a few in- different cottages," now contains some very good houses. It is pleasantly situated on the road from Whitehaven to Workington, about two miles N. by e. of the former place. The parish abounds with coal ; the colliery from which coals were foniierly shipped from Parton, was disused for many years following PARISH OF MORESBY. 59 1770, but has been since worked; and there is also a quarry of excellent free-stone. Moresby-house, the seat of John Hartley, Esq. Is a modern mansion, pleasantly situated in the A-illage of Moresby. The Roman Station. Of this Station, Horslcy, in the essay on the Notitia, in his " most admirable work," Britannia Romaiia,says,"Arbeia ai^l^ears to me to have been the most northerly of the stations, which were next to those per 'I'lncam ral/i : for after mention of the stations garrisoned by horse, which were in the southern part of Yorkshire, the Notitm sets down those which were garrisoned by several mmeri ; and of these, Arbeia is the first. Cam- den, from affinity of names, took this ior Ireby in Cumberland ; but as there are no remains ot a station at Ireby, so I coidd never learn upon inquiry, that there were any other Roman anti- (luities ever found there : and the argument from affinity of names is of less force, because there is another place of the same name in Lancashire. Harl)y-brow, or narbi/-l>iir<>Ii, by the name might bid as fair at least, as Ireby, from whidi it is dis- tant about two or three miles ; but I found the same objections he against that. I met with the like disappointment at Workington, where some have said, that there must liave been a Roman station ; for 1 could discover no appearance ot it, nor hear of any Roman coins, inscrii)ti()ns, or other aiiticiuities found thereabout : Tlie borough walls where the station is supposed to have l)ccn, is about a mile from the town, and not much less H 2 60 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. from the river, but on the opposite side : a good part of the walls are yet standing ; by which it appears to have been only one of those old towns, which we so frequently see in the north, and which sometimes bear the name of Burgh or Brugh : I saw no appearance of a ditch, no re- mains of other buildings about it, or near it ; and in short, nothing that looked like a Roman sta- tion or town : if it has ever been a Roman fort of any kind, I think it must only have been one of those small exploratory castella, which some observe to have been placed along the coast : it has a large prospect into the sea, but httle to- wards the land. At Moresby I met with evident proofs, though little remains, of a station. In a field which lies between that towii and Parton, called the Crofts, they continually plough up stones and cement, which have all the usual appearance of being Roman ; and besides the Roman inscrip- tions mentioned in Camden, I saw two other monuments of that nature myself ; yet it is not easy now to discern the limits of the station. The field in which the stones are now ploughed up looked to me rather like the place of the town, than the station. There appeared, as I thought, somewhat hke two sides of a fort near the church. Perhaps the station, or part of it, has been de- stroyed, or washed away by the sea, towards which there is a very large prospect. The order, in which Arbc'ia, is mentioned in the Notitia, suits very well with the supposition that this is the place ; for Moresby is nine or ten computed miles from Ellenborough, which station I take to be the last of those contained under the title ;;c;- Uneam vallL The remains indeed are not so large and PARISH OF MORESBY. 61 conspicuous, as might be expected in a Not'itla station ; but those have different degrees as well as others. According to the NotUia, the Numer- us Barcariorum Tigritenslum were in garrison at Arbeia." Dr Lord Bishop of Cloync, remarks on the above account by Horsley : — " there is great reason to think Arhe'ta, another of these stations, mentioned in the Notitia, was at Mores- by, two miles north-east of ^Vlliteha^'en, though Camden Avas inclined to fix it at Ireby. That there was a station at JNIoresby is evident by its remains, and it is one of the few instances in which the accuracy of Horsley has failed him : for though he allowed the inscriptions found here to be Roman, he has too hastily observed that there are hardly any marks of the station itself; other antiquaries have been more fortunate in discovering it ; the site is in a field, on the side of the village, towards Parton, called the Crofts, and the church stands (as is often the case,) within its area. It is a square of 400 feet, on an elevation, overlooking several creeks still fre- quented by small craft, and shews that one reason of its being placed here was to protect the coast against the invasions of the northern and western pirates. The west Agger is perfectly plain, and the stones of the south wall still appear through the turf that covers them. A body of Africans formed its garrison ; Stukeley saw a Roman road pointing over the moors towards Papcastle ; but as if the spot was to be fatal to the characters of all our antiquaries, he has read Ilorsley's 75th Cumberland inscription, which was found here, in a manner almost as eiToneous, as his very hi- 62 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. dicrous interpretation of the Greek line on the altar at Corbridge." Camden says,* " here the shore goes on a little retreating, and it appears from the ruins of walls, that wherever the landing was easy it was forti- fied by the Romans. For it was the extreme boundary of the Roman empire, and this coast was particularly exposed to the Scots when they spread themselves like a deluge over this island from Ireland. Here is Moresby, a little village, where, from these fortifications, we may conclude was a station for ships. Here are many traces of antiquity in the vaults and foundations, many caverns called Picts holes, many fragments of inscriptions are here dug up, one of which has the name of LVCIVS SEVERINVS ORDI- NATVS; another COH. VH. I saw there this altar, lately dug vip, with a small horned statue of Silvanus : DEO SILVAN.. COH. II. LING. CVI PR^^S.. G. POMPEIVS M... SATVRNIN.. Deo Silvano Cohors 2da Lingonum Cui praeest G. Pompeius M. Saturninus. iC The following fragment was copied and transmitted to me by J. Fletcher, lord of the place : • Cough's ed. iii. p. 421. PARISH OF MORESBY. 63 OB PROSPE. RITATEM CVLMINIS INSTITVTI. " But none has yet been found that determine it to have been Morbivm, where the Equites Cataphractarii were stationed, which the name in some sort insinuates." Mr. Horsley, who gives the above mmute account of the station as it appeared when he wrote, about the year 1730, says: — " There is an original inscription yet remam- in" at a style, in a field called Inclose, a Uttle east of Moresby Hall, but pretty much effaced and broken. D M ..SMERT OMAC uconi ..HRAC. .Q.STII XVICSIT XXX . QV " It is sepulchral, and has contained the name of the person deceased, with his age, and the years he had served in the army : for I take the last letters in the last line but two to have been stip. for Stipendiorum, and vicsit in the following line to stand for vixit. This soldier may have had three names, the letter for the procnomen seems to have been defaced ; the other two might be 64 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Smerhts Tomac'ms, for Smer'nis is a family name in Griiter. I think the fourth and tifth hnes must have been ^files Cohort'is Secundce Thror cum. I prefer Secundse before Primae, though only one letter appears, because there is room for another ; and this second Cohort of Thraci- ans, according to the Xotitia, kept garrison at Gabrosentum : and though I do not imagine that INIoresby was Gabrosentum, yet this may favour the opinion, that Gabrosentum was at the western end of the wall. The head of the deceased is in the pediment at the top, and I believe, the inscrip- tion has been continued further at the bottom. The Q in the last line, I believe, stands for Que : and though it be placed before the V for quinque, yet I beheve, it is designed to join it to the pre- ceding numerals. " There is another curious sculpture, though not executed with a fine taste. I know not whether it may have been sepulchral, for there is no inscription upon the stone. The dress and scroll in the hand look senatorial. The features of the face are become very obscure. I found this stone at a style near the other. " The originals of those inscriptions, what Camden has given us, I could not discover ; no doubt since his time they are lost or destroyed. " It is hard to know what to make of the last inscription, since the former part is wanting. It seems as if some edifice had been built or repaired, to which it has a reference ; and the seventh Cohort, mentioned before, which was probably of the 20th legion detached from Chester, might be employed in this work, and Severinus have the charge of it : but this is imcertain. PARISH OF MORESBY. 65 " As for the altar inscribed to the god Silyanus by the Cohors secunda Liiigoinini, there is no difficulty in it, except in the fourth hne at the end, and the M there must either have been another name of the commander, or else there may have been an F after it, for MarciJUius." The Manor. Moresby is supposed to have taken its name from a possessor, Moris, in the time of William Rufus ; and " in process of time this place gave name to its owners, the INIoresbys" or Moricebys, of which family was Ucknard, who gave common here to the abbot of St. Mary's of Holme-Cultram. That family held the manor for many generations, until the male line tailed in Sir Christopher Moriceby, knight, which ocurred before the year 1500. His daughter and heiress, Anne, married Sir James Pickering, of Killington, co. Westmor- land, knight, who had a daughter Anne, heiress both to the Moresby and Pickering estates. She was thrice married : her first husband was Sir Francis Westby ; she married secondly. Sir Henry Knevett; and thirdly, John Vaughan, Esq. In an inquisition of knights' fees in Cumberland, in the 35th Henry VHL, it was found that Henry Knevett and Anne his wife, in right of the said Anne, held the manor of Moresby, with the ap- purtenances, of the king, as of his castle of Egre- mont, by knight's service, and rendering for the same yearly 52.9. Id. cornage. In the 19th of Elizabeth, the lady Anne being yet living, this manor was sold by Thomas K iievett, Esci-, probably her son by the second husband, I 66 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. to William Fletcher, of Cockeitnouth, gentleman, descended from an elder branch of the Fletchers of Hutton. His son and heir, Henry Fletcher, of Moresby, Esq., had a son, WiUiam, Avho died unmarried, and was succeeded by his brother Henry : his son, William, had a son, Thomas, who became possessed of Hutton by the gift of Sir Henry Fletcher, Bart., a thstant relation, who retired to a monastery at Douai, in Flanders, and settled nearly all his property upon him. (See vol. i. Leath'Ward, p. 430.) After the death of the above Thomas Fletcher, the last of his family, jNIoresby was sold, under a decree in Chancery, in 1 720, to John Brougham, Esq. of Scales, by whom, in 1737, it was convey- ed to Sir James Lowther, of ^^'hitehaven, Bart, ancestor of the Earl of Lonsdale, the present proprietor. Moresby Hall Is situated on the west side of the road leading from Workington to Whitehaven. It has a spacious front, of three stories, facing the south : the principal windows have alternate rounded and angular pediments ; and over the principal entrance is a shield, charged with the arms of Fletcher, formerly lords of the manor, by whom probably the hall was repaired. A copious spring of water rises from under the foundation of one of the walls in the small court-yard on the north side of the hall. The interior is so mucli mo- dernized, at least in the principal apartments, as scarcely to retain any marks of its antiquity : the ancient and spacious stair-case, however, is yet PARISH OF MORESBY. 67 preserved. Some years since several skeletons were dug up in the entrance-hall : they were enclosed in slates, but had no coffins. The hall is now the residence of the Misses Tate. The Church. The benefice is a rectory, in the patronage of the Earl of Lonsdale, the lord of the manor. It is valued in the King's Books at 6/. 2s. 3^^/., and was certified to the governors of queen Ann's bounty at 23/. clear yearly value ; viz. tithe corn 12/., glebe 2/., modus for hay tithe 2/. 10*., wool and lamb 1/., prescription for the tithes of the demesne lands of Moresby hall 4/., other small tithes and Easter offerings 1/., surphce fees 10s, The living is thus entered in the Valor Eccle- siasticus of Henry VIII. Moresby liector' EccVie. Karolus Martingdall incumbens p'dca. valet in „ Mansione cum gleba per au- ? _ num S Decim' granos. Ixxiijs. iiij d XXV nutn S Decim' granos. et feni iiij/."" vjs. viijc^. decim' Ian' ic £ s. d. agnell xijs.pisciu. marines. L >vij i'j X iijs. lini & canabi ij*. ijt/. > cxviij X minut' & privat' decim' ut in libro paschal' xv«. In tof > Hepris' viz. in £ s. d. Sinod' xiij(^. procurac' xxijc?. — ij xj £ *. (/. Et valet clare vij ^j Xma. ps. ind( ^ xiiij jq 80 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. List of Rectors. William Curwen, occurs 1535. .... Fletcher, occui'S about 1642. 1669 Richard Armstead. 1685 Richard Tickell. 1692 Lancelot Teasdale. 1712 John Dalton. 1729 W. Briscoe. 1745 Thomas SeweU. 1747 Thomas Spedchng. 1753 AY. Lowther. 1785 Thomas Wilson Morley. 1813 Henry Lowther, M.A. The church is situated on an eminence, west of the village, commanding an extensive prospect of mountain scenery. It is an ancient building, and consists of a nave and chancel, a south porch, a bell-turret at the western end, carrying two bells, and a vestry on the north side. The porch is seated and has a pointed arch. The west window is of three round-headed lights, but is covered by a modern stair-case leading into the galleiy ; in the wall is a shield, apparently charged with the arms of Curwen, fretty and a chief. The north windows of the nave are modern ; but those on the south side have each two round headed lights under dripstones. There is a stone font, of a square form, under the organ, at the western end, which bears the date, 1662. The nave and chancel are connected by a pointed arch ; the latter is lighted by a modern east vnndow, and a square wndow on each side. On the north wall of the chancel is a plate inscribed — PARISH OF DISTINGTON. 81 Under y stone, marked P. W. lyes the body of JANE the wife of Mr. Pelcr Walker of Parton, who departed this life, September y<; 5th Anno Dom. 1725, aged 66. She was syster to the Rev. Mr. Teasdale, late Rector of this Parish. On the south wall of the nave is a marble tab- let, beneath these arms,— a che\Ton, charged with five ermine spots, between three leopards' heads, and the motto, AuxUium meum ah alto. The tablet is inscribed — Sacred to the Memory of ROBERT BLAKENEY, Esq. (The last surriTing son of George Augustus Blakeney, Esq. and Mary his wife,) who died upon the 6th day of November, 1822, aged 64 years. He was an acting Magistrate, and a Deputy Lieutenant of this County. In the church-yard are two tomb-stones in memory of some other branches of this family. Near the church is a very neat Sunday School, " erected by the Parish, 1836." Cf)r |^ari0]^ of ILamplugl). HIS parish is bounded on the south, by the chapehy of Ennerdale ; on the west, by Arlecdon and Disting- ton parishes; on the north, by Dean, in the ^\'ard of Derwent ; and on the east, by the parochial chapelry of Loweswater, in the same ward, and Crummock-wa- ter. It extends about six miles from north to soutli, and its breadth is about three miles. This parish is divided into four townships — Lamplugh, Kelton, Murton, and AVinder. Its mineral products are lime and iron : the fonner is much wrought ; but the latter is dormant at present. Mr. John Denton supposes that " the place was originally named Glan-Floitgh, or Glaii-FiUoiigli, of the Irish inhabitants before the Conquest, which word signifies the Wet Dale, vaUisliimi'ida ; and thereof is formed the present word, Lamplugh, or Lanjfogli." The same writer also says, " Lamplugh in the fells, is that manor-house and seignory in the barony of Egremont, which gave name to the ancient family of Lamplughs ; a race of valourous gentlemen, successively for their worthyness knyghted in the field, all or most of them." On an eminence in the Stockhow Hall estate. PARISH OF LAMPLUGH. 83 in this parish, are the remains of a druidical circle, called Standing Stones. Only the northern seg- ment is now to be seen ; the remainder having been blasted and removed a few years ago to make fences with. The part remaining consists of six large stones, of the kind provincially called the smooth blue cobble, placed at irregular dis- tances, varying from eighteen paces to one ; and the circle, when perfect, may have been one hundred paces in diameter. The stones are mostly of an oblong figure, placed endwise in the circumference of the circle ; four of the largest are nearly four feet in height above gi'ound, and are supported in an upright position by other large stones around their bases undergi'ound. The neighbouring i-ock is of limestone. We can ascertain no tradition relating to the stones beyond the name, which is common to similar erections in other ))arts of the kingdom. There is a tradition of an oak-tree having grown in the forest, on the steep southern side of Blake Fell, where now is nothing but the naked and moving dcl)ris of the slate rock, and from which a table was made of a single plank, nearly four feet in width, and several yards in length, to grace the liall of the manorial residence of the Lamplughs. On the demolition of the an- cient residence, for materials wherewith to erect the modern house and farm buildings, the table was cut into two lengths, and the half of it now stretches entirely across the roomy farm kitchen — a nol)le, though nuicli diminished specimen of the growth of tlie oak in the days when the squirrel was chased from Lamplugh Fells to Moresby, without its alighting on the ground. So closely L 2 84 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. was the country afforested for many miles, where now are only stmited hedgerows. The Roman road from Egi-emont to Cocker- mouth passed through this parish, "close by Lamplugh Cross and Street gate." A great part of this parish is very elevated, and commands an extensive prospect in Scotland, and on the Irish Sea, including the Isle of Man. Near Lamplugh Hall is a mineral spring, of a powerful astringent quality. An ancient cross, which until lately remained in the parish, has shared the fate of the old hall, and has been wantonly destroyed. The Manor. The manor of Lamplugh, at a very early period, belonged to William de Lancaster, baron of Ken- dal, who gave it with AVorkington, in exchange for Middleton, in Lonsdale, to Gospatric, son of Orme, lord of Seaton, in Derwent Ward. William de Lancaster was "a great commander under Henry II. in the wars against David of Scotland, and Earl Henry, his son, and helped to recover the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland from the Scots, which King Stephen had given them." Gospatric died seised of Lamplugh, and his son Thomas gave it to Robert Lamplugh and his heirs, " for paying yearly a pair of gilt spurs to the lord of Workington." Lamplugh of Lamplugh. Arms: — Or, a cross floree, sable. Crest: — A goat's head couped proper; according to Ly. sons, A goal's hqad argent, attire and beard or. PARISH OF LAMPLUGH. 85 Esq /sTriuii.mD«gx — _ cim' privat' ut in libro paschal' \ > IX X ~ ■ j ( \n]s. '\W]d. In tot' ; ) Eepris' vis. in £ s. d. Sinod' xj«?. procurac' ij*. £ s. d. Et valet clarc ix xvij j Xma. ps. inde — xix viij ob' PARISH OF CORNEY. 97 List of Rectors. Robert Hutton, occurs 1535. 1661 Francis Berkeley. 1666 Robert Crompton. 1677 William Benson. 1738 John Fisher. 1787 Peter How. Allison Steble. 18. . Thomas Han-ison, M.A. 1840 Wilham Benn, B.A. A grave-stone with across and sword, but without any inscription, is placed as a hntel over the door of an out-house at the rectory. Charities. The sum of 30/. has been left to the poor of the parish of Corney who do not receive parochial relief; the interest of which is distributed an- nually on Christmas-day. Cftf |?an0f) of tMtiftiam OiMPRISES only one town- ship, and has no village of its own name. It extends about three miles cast and west, and one mile along the coast, north and south. If It is bounded on the north, _ by Whitbeck ; on the south and east, by AfiUom ; and on the west, by the sea. This parish has been variously called Wliitt'iiigeJiam, Wli'itcham, and Wlclieliam. " At the west end of Donerdale, near the fells, foranenst Milium, stands Wliitchcnn, or WicheJunti, alias WhUt'ingeham, all which (or the most part thereof) was another fee holden of Milium. And (as I take it) y^ place tooke that name of one Wyche, the first feoffee of the same. He livd about the time of K*" H. 1. two of his sonns, Will.fil.A\'yche and Godfrey, were witnesses to a mortgage of Kirksanton in the time of K^' H. 2. But their issue generall brought the land unto other familyes about the time- of K^' H. 3. for then one Radulf de Bethom had the land ; and the 6° of Ed. 1. he granted estovers to John Parson of AMiitcham, in his woods there : and one Rob. fil. Radi. de Bethom warranted lands in Sellcroft and Satterton in Millom ix° Ed. 1. But the manners of Selcroft and Whitcham w^ere inanother family, nono Ed' Secundi; asappeareth PARISH OF WHICIIAM. 99 by a fine thereof levyed betwene Will. Corbet and Alicia his wife, q. and John de Corney, def ' ."* The manor of Whichamshall or Whichall be- longed at an early period to the family of Bethom ; it was afterwards divided into severalties. Sir James Lowther, Bart, pm'chased this estate, a considerable portion of which had belonged to Mr. Henry Fearon : it is now the property of the Earl of Lonsdale. The manor of Whicham and Silcroi't l^clonged to the family of Latus of the Beck, in the parish of Millom, who for some time resided at ^Vhicham hall. It was also the property of the Mulcasters or Muncasters of Cockermonth. Part of the parish is annexed to the lordship of Millom. A tradition has been preserved that a battle was fought between the English and the S cotch in a field near AVhicham hall, which retains the name of Scots' croft. The Church. The church of Whicham is dedicated to St. Mary, and was given by " Reynard the Fewer" to the abbey of St. Mary at York. After the dissolution of religious houses, the patronage was held by Hugh Askew, Esq. who presented a rec- tor in 1511. In the year 1717, .... Pennington, Esq. was certified as patron : it remained in that family until sold, by Lord Muncaster, to the Earl of Lonsdale, the present patron. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the King's • From a MS. "penes Dr. Duiilon," in llie Macliell MSS. vol. -vi. p. 531. N 2 100 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Books at 8/. 15s. lOcL; and was certified to tlie governors of Queen Ann's bounty at 49/. 13s. 3d. The rector pays an annual pension of 10s. to St. Bees. In the Valor Ecclesiasticus of Henry VIII. it is entered as follows : — WTiittngham Rector' EecVie. VUj u. 3- I Joh'es Wodall incumbens. Rector' p'dca. valet in £ ^ ^^ Mansione cum gleba pomar' } ' ■ & orto S •^ Decim' feni et garbas. xb. • Ian' et agnell' iiij/. pisciu. marinos. x«. decim' mo- lend' iij«. iiij — xv iijs. iiije?. 5 Et valet clare Xma. ps. inde £ ;>ix J — x s. XV £ s. viij xiiij — XV ij J d. List of Rectors. John Wodall, occurs, 1535. 1630 Robert Crompton. .... Tubman, occurs, c. 1642. 1720 John Lawi'ey. 1745 WiUiam Smith. 1794 Robert Scott. 1804 James Satterthwaite. 1814 AUison Steble. 1832 Alexander Scott, M.A. PARISH OF wniCHAM. 101 The Grammar School of Whicham and MiLLOM. It is not clearly ascertained, says Sir Nicholas Carlisle, who was the founder of this school, which was formerly called " the Gramer Schole of Whicham and ^lilham," being free for both parishes. In the chancery suit between the inhabitants of these two parishes, which continued from 1CS7 to 1G91, — it was contended by the inhabi- tants of Millom, that the school had been endowed by one of the Kings of England, prior to the reign of (^uecn Klizabeth, — whereas it was insist- ed upon by tlie inhabitants of Whicham, that the school had been endowed by a })erson of the name of Hodgson, a native of tliis parisli. The probability is, that the inhabitants of Whicham were in the right, because as the parish of Millom both in extent and in jiopulation is six times greater than the parish of Whicham, it is not likely the scliool would have been called "Wliicham and Millom School," unless the founder had been born in the parish of Whic- ham. However that may be, it appears from a decree, in the year 1510, that IG/. a year were then ordered to be paid annually out of the revenues of the crown in the county of Cumberland, re- maining with the auditor of the county. And it is a certain fact, that that sum has been regidarly paid by the auditor of the revenues of the county of Cumberland, from the year 1540 until the present time. There has been no subsequent endowment : 102 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. and, until within the last fifty years, the master never received any quarter-pence, nor any other emolument for instructing the children born within either of these parishes, excepting a gra- tuitous offer, entirely at the option of the parents of the children, called a " Cock-Penny," at Shrovetide. The necessaries of life having, however, con- siderably increased in value, and the 16/. per an- num remaining as it did in the time of Queen Elizabeth, have brought about an amicable ar- rangement between the master and the inhabitants of the two parishes ; in consequence of which the master receives a payment with his scholars, augmenting the stipend to about 50/. per annum. Ten scholars, however, are taught free. The school-house was built at the expence of the inhabitants. The right of electing and of removing the master is vested in twelve ti-ustees or governors, six out of each parish, including the rector of Whicham, and the vicar of Millom, in pursuance of a decree in chancery, made in the 2nd James II. There are no exhibitions, nor any university ad- vantages, belonging to this school. The Rev. John Postlethwaite, head-master of St. Paul's school, who died in 1713,* received the rudiments of his education in this school ; he was a benefactor to the adjoining parish of Millora, in which he was born.f • He was buried, 13th September, 1713, in the church of St. Augus- tine, London. t The above particulars are mainly derived from Carlisle's Grammar Schools. parish of whicham. 103 Charities. A poor-stock of 33/. belongs to the parish. Of this sum 3/. was given by Daniel Mason, the interest to be distributed to six poor widows. The Rev. Robert Crompton, rector of the parish (1630), gave 51. the intei'est to be distributed annually to the poor. The remainder was left by unkno\\ni benefactors, half of the interest thereof to be applied to the repairs of the church, and half to the poor. HIS parish extends about four miles along the coast, its greatest breadth being about two miles and a half. It is divided by the Irt into two parts, Drigg and Carleton, which form but one township ; and is bounded on the north, by the parish of Gosforth ; on the west, by the Irish Sea ; on the. south, by the river INIite, which divides it from IMuncaster ; and on the east, by the parish of Irton, and the chapelry of Wasdale. Nicolson and Burn say, " it is very observable, that the lands which lie on each side of the Irt are of such different soils, as hath hardly been known elsewhere ; those on the east side being altogether a deep clay, and those on the west and north nothing but beds of sand." Sir ^^'illiam Pennington, of IMuncaster, the first baronet, made a horse course on the sands at Drigg, in the reign of Charles II. where a plate of the value of 10/, was run for annually in the month of May. Drigg is remarkable for producing, in large quantities, the finest potatoes of any part of Cumberland. In the latter end of the last century they were supposed to produce in the PARISH OF DRIGG. 105 market of Whitehaven the annual sum of 300/.* At about the same period, Lord Muncaster, the lord of the manor and the lay rector, took com- mon land in lieu of tithes, and enfranchised his customary tenants. Near the sea-shore is a chalybeate spring, ■which is held in esteem for its medicinal properties. It was once a place of high repute, and visited by invahds and others from many parts of the king- dom. It possesses every physical advantage for becoming one of the most fashionable resorts of the kind in the kingdom : tlie adjoining beach is a beautiful sheet of level sand ; tlie surrounding scenery is beautiful and romantic in the extreme, — perhaps one of the best views in the county being obtained from that point ; — and it is within an hour's drive of Wast-Water, Devock-Water, and many other minor sheets of water in that locality. Some few years ago, three hollow tubes of a vitrified substance, were observed projecting from the surface of a sand-hill on the sea coast. One of them was traced downward to the depth of about 30 feet, without coming to a termination, though its diameter was contracted to half an inch. The substance of these tubes, which are longitudinally, corrugated, appears to be the melted sand of the coast, but is extremely difli- cult of fusion. The only agent which appears sufficient to account for this production, is the electric fluid ; and they were probably produced by the action of lightning on the drifted sand.f • Not 3000/. as stated in Hutcliinson. + Sec an article in the Transactions of the Geological Society (vol. ii. 1811), " On the Vitreous Tubes found near to Drigg in Cumberland." O 106 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Mr. John Denton says, " Dregg, on the other side of Irt, had great sort of oakes in the elder times, and thereof the Scots and inhabitants (at, and before the conquest) called the manor, Dregg of Derigh, or Dergh, which is Oak in the Scottish or Irish language. And much old wood, beaten down with the wind from the sea, is yet digged up out of the mosses and wet grounds there, as in divers other places in the country ; and in Scotland there are several places which have got their names fi-om Derig Oaks, as Glendergh ; and some others in Cumberland, as Dundragh ; and in our English, Aikton, Aikhead, Aikskeugh." The Irt is frequented by salmon, and abounds with trout. Camden speaks of the shell-fish in this river producing pearls ; and Sir John Haw- kins obtained from government the right of fish- ing for pearls in the Irt. The pearls were ob- tained from muscles, by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood, who sought for them at low-water, and afterwards sold them to the jewellers. About In the " Archives of Discoveries in France, in 1813," are two papers on some remarkable tubular cavities ■which exist in St. Peter's hill, near Maestricht. They arc described under the title of geological organ-pipes from their peculiar figure. They are supposed to have been formed by the water, that formerly covered the strata in wliich they exist, displac- ing some soft or loose materials and filtering llirough the mass. Tubes of this description are not confined to the neighbourhood of Maestricht, and it is conceived that tlieir formation may be all referred to the same cause. Among Dr. E. D. Clarke's Experiments with ignited hydrogen and oxygen gas highly compressed and passed tlirough Newman's Blew Pipe is the following: — Sand Tubes of Drigg, in Cumberland. — On exposure to the ignited gas the fusion was instantaneous; and similar to the fusion of hyalite ; leaving a bead of pttrc limpid glass, containing bubbles, like rock cr)'stal after fusion. PARISH OF DRIGG. 107 the year 1695, a patent was gi'anted to some gentlemen, for pearl fishing in this river ; but how the undertaking prospered is uncertain. The pearl muscles do not appear to have been very plentiful here for many years ; Nicolson and Burn observe, that Mr. Thomas Patriclcson, of How-Hall in this county, is said to have obtained as many from divers poor people, whom he em- ployed to gather them, as he afterwards sold in London for 800/. The pearl-muscle is not known or spoken of under that name ; although we have no doubt but the hsh from which these gems were obtained, still exists in the stream, and is locally called a " horse-fish." It is a bivalve of the muscle species, but much larger than the muscle used as an article of food, sometimes measuring as far as six inches in length. They are found on muddy banks where the water is nearly stagnant, and are a great nuisance to ground-JisJters. The Rev. WiUiam Singleton, rector of I lanslope, Bucks, is a native of this parish : he is the author of a pamphlet " On the Duty of keeping holy the Sabbath Day and on the Sacraments," 8vo. 1805 ; and he wrote several papers which appeared in the Monthly Magazine. The Manor Belonged in the reign of Hcmy H. to the Estote- vills, and descended by a daughter to Baldwin, Lord Wake, Baron of Liddell," of which Baldwin," says Mr. John Denton, " William, the son of Thomas de (iraystoke, and the Lady Adinghan, in Fourness, in the tenth year of Edward L held o -i 108 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. a knight's fee between them in Dregg ; and in the 29th Edward I. the Abbot of Caldre, Patrick Culwen, and the Lady Margaret Multon, held Dregg of John de Graystock, and of John, the son of Robert Harrington, and they over of John Wake." Harrington's part subsequently passed with a heiress to the Curwens of Workington Hall ; and was sold, under the title of the manor and advowson of Drigg, in the reign of James I., by Sir Nicholas Curwen, knight, to Sir William Pennington, of Muncaster, ancestor of Lord Muncaster, the present possessor. Major-General Wyndham, of Cockermouth castle, is lord-para- mount of the whole ; and a considerable part of the parish is held immediately under his barony of Egreraont. The lord of the manor claims flotsam — wreck floating on the water, jetsam — goods cast from any vessel or thrown on the shore, and lagan — goods that are sunk. These rights were tried and adjudged on a trial, in the reign of Queen Ehzabetli, between Henry, Earl of Northumber- land, and Sir Nicholas Curwen, knight. A degree in chancery confirmed the said prescription, and secured those rights against the lord-paramount.* The sea, which forms the western boundary of the parish, has evidently made considerable en- • The rights or privileges of the lord of the manor with respect to Jlotsam, Ijc, do not appear to be very accurately defined or clearly understood ; some maintaining that all wreck whatever belongs exclusively to the crown ; others, exclusively to the lord of the manor : but the most correct opinion appears to be, that whatever is taken out of the sea whilst (\/loat belongs to the crown, and that whatever is left aground by the retreat of the tide is the property of the lord of the manor. PARISH OF DRIGG. 109 croachments on the land, as at low-water exten- sive plots of vegetable soil or peat-moss are visible, from one of which, two or three years ago, an inhabitant of the parish, named Mandle, dug several cart-loads, which, as an article of fuel, was found to be far superior to the peat com- monly in use in the neighbourhood. Carleton. Carleton is a constablewick, lying between the Irt and the Mite, containing the hamlet of Hall Carleton, and Carleton Hall, the seat of Joseph Burrow, Esq. It contains about twelve farms, formerly holden of the Penningtons of Muncaster, as of their manor of Drigg, but the tenants were enfranchised by the grandfather of the present lord. The Church. The church of Drigg is dedicated to St. Peter, and was appropriated to the priory of Conishead, in Lancashire. The abbots of Calder had ))art of the manor ; and IJishop Gastrell notices that Anselm, son of Micliael de Furness, gave the chapel of Drog to the priory of Conishead, and supposes it may have been a mistake in the manuscript for Dreg or Drigg. In the Valor Ecclesiastlc/ts- of Henry YIW. in the list of the possessions of that priory, the church of Drigg is entered as follows : — Dccim' capclle de Digidrego viz. xmis. granos. '^ k feni iiij/. vjs. viijt/. Ian' &. agii' xxxs. vituV f £ s. d. porccir auc' k gallin' vs. oblac' tribs. dicbsAvij vij iiij prencipalibs vjs. viijrf. minut' & privat' decim' W ut in libro paschal' xxs. In tot'. } 110 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. However, so totally was the church appropri- ated, that it became a perpetual curacy, and was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty of the annual value of 51. Qs. i>(L On the dissolution of religious houses, this church was granted to the Curwens, and was sold, with the manor, by Sir Nicholas Curvven, as aforesaid, to the Penningtons of Muncaster, in whose family the tithes, demesne, and manor re- mained, until Lowther, Lord Muncaster, enfran- chised his customary tenants and took common land in lieu of tithes. The advowson was sold, by the late Lord Muncaster, to Samuel Irton, Esq., M.P. of Irton Hall, the present patron. The present incumbent is the Rev. John Grice, who has for his curate the Rev. Francis Shaw. The parish church of this place is very humble and unassuming in its appearance; being entirely destitute of all architectural ornament both in- ternal and external. It has a chancel, and a porch at the western end, which constitutes the principal entrance into the body of the building. It is dedicated to St. Peter. The nave may be considered the original erection, but at this re- mote period its precise date cannot be accurately ascertained. Two stone crosses until lately sur- mounted the apices of the eastern and western gables ; but on rebuilding the chancel a few years ago which was in a very decayed, dilapidated condition ; these Christian symbols were sacri- legiously knocked off' by the workman's hammer, and wrought as materiels into the new wall. We have no List of Incumbents previous to the year 1 676 : since that period they have been as follows : — PARISH OF DRIGG. Ill 1676 John Benson. 1681 Joseph Benn, buried INIay 25th, 1730. 1730 Edward Burroughs* buried February 21st, 1776. 1775 John Steble, buried April 17th, 1780. 1780 Clement Watts. 1797 John Grice. There are no inscriptions in the interior, ex- cepting a small tablet erected in memory of the Rev Steble, a former incumbent of the parish. There is an old register belonging to the church, by which it ap])ears, that a Mr. Thomson who resided at Thornllat in tliis parish, (during the usurpation of Oliver Cromwell,) marriecl several couples, acting as magistrate under the usurper, when the ministration of the incumbent was superseded. There is a series of entries of marriages ex- tending over a space of two years, 1656 and 7 : • Father of the Rev. Stanley Burrough, M.A. rector of Cottesbach, CO. Leicester; 17G3 — 1768; rector of Sapcote, to which he was present- ed in 1778; and many years master of Rugby school ; ob. 1807. " He was a very worthy man, and an excellent parish priest." He was a native of Drigg, and was educated by his father, who kept a school, and was minister of that parish and Irton. At the usual age he was sent to Queen's college, Oxford, on tlie old foundation ; and was contemporiiry with Mr. Gilpin of Boldre, Dr. Harrington of Bath, &c. About the time of his taking his degree of M.A. hu w,is invited to Rugby by Ur. Rirhmond, a fellow of Queen's college, then lately elected upper master of that school, as his assistant. Upon the Doctor's resignation he became upper master, and continued to preside over that school, with considerable repu- tation, for 23 years, which he resigned in 1778, and removed to Sapcote, to which living he had been presented that year by his brother-in-law, the late Mr. Frcwen-Tumcr, of Cold Overton. — Gent. Mag. June 18U7. 112 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. in the solemnization of which, the services of the clergy seem to have been entirely dispensed with, and their sacred functions usm-ped by a layman. The following may serve as examples of the en- tries : — 1656. Richard Gaytskell and Annow Hunter were irarried the xxixth of June before Willm. Thomson one of the Justices of the Peace for this County. 1657. Nicholas Powe and Margrat Layton were married the xviith day of September before Willm: Thomson one of the Justices of the Peace for this County. Schools. Drigg — unlike most country parishes — can boast of two endowed places of public instruction. The original school, which stands in the Carleton division of the parish, dates the period of its erection as far back as tlie year 1723, and in 1727, was endowed by Joseph Walker in the amount of 260/. for the education of the children of such as had previously contributed to the erection of a school-house ; subject however to the payment of a small annual gratuity to the master at Shrovetide, locally denominated Cock- Penny. The endowment, however, through the indiscreet investment and imprudent management of the trustees, is now almost wholly alienated, the capital being reduced so low that the interest accruing from it is scarcely adequate to meet the contingent expenses of the building. There is a brass tablet inserted in the wall immediately over the fire-place bearing the fol- lowing inscription : — PARISH OF DRIGG. Joseph Wallcer de Salt Coats banc Scbolam fundavit Anno Dom. 1723. I add four pounds to year Building of tliis School as a cheerful! giver, That the poor of the Parish may bo free in it for ever. Idem Joseph Walker hoc dixit et fecit. Trustees 113 Edw. Burrough John Thompson Moses Nicholson Wm. Beeby Wm. Thompson Carlcton. Wm. Postlethwaite Wm. Singleton John Cappage John Pool Drigg. A school-house was erected in 1S28, by the Rev. William Thompson, M.A., a native of the parish curate of 1' arnwovth, near Prescot, Lan- cashire. This school is vested in seven trustees,— the Bisho]) of Chester, Lord Muncaster, the rector of Gosforth, the incumbents of Muncaster and I)ri"-g, the master of St. Bees school, and the founder's heir-at-law in perpetuity. The Bishop of Chester is appointed iv.sv/or, " with the usual visitorial powers incident to the office of visitor of a charity." The master is to teach eight poor children, natives of the parish, for the payment of l.s. entrance, and Is. per quarter each ; but he is allowed to take other pupils, who pay a regular quarterage for the ditt'erent branches of learning in which they are instructed. The school-honse stands upon a new site adjoining the church ; the master is limited to 53 scholars including the 8 charity children. The quarter pence for the remainder is left to the master's discretion. , . wv . .i. The site was conveyed by deed ot gilt to the 1 1 1 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. founder by the late Lowther, Lord Muncaster. The endowment is 42/. per annum, arising from moneys invested for tlie piu'pose in the 3 per cent, consols: 40/. of the proceeds go directly to the master in half-yearly payments, and the re- maining 40s. are at the disposal of the trustees, to be employed in the repairs of the school and school-house. There is an elegant and commodious house adjoining the school, for the gratuitous reception of the master ; also built at the expence of the founder. The present master is Mr. Isaac Clements, A.B. etc IJaris!) of i!;2:ii)it6fcS, NCLUDED ill the lordship of Alillom, extends along tlie coast about three miles ; and, inland, , rather more than two miles. It ' is bounded on the south, by ■ Whicham ; on the east, by the 'mountain Black-Comb;* on the north, by Bootle ; and on the I west, by the Irish Sea. The whole ])arish is comprised in one towii>hi[) ol' its own name. Its remarkable sa- lubrity appears from the number of persons \vho have attained to a great age : the Messrs. Lysons state that the register shows that of the inhabi- tants buried here (previous to 1816,) rather more than one in five were aged from SO to SO inclu- sive ; f and about one in eleven from 90 to 99 inclusive. The surface of the parish is uneven and irregu- lar, but there are few trees to give it a picturesque appearance. Some parts, however, command extensive views, including the shipping on the Irish Sea, the Isle of Man, and the ^Velsh and Scottish mountains. A vein of peatmoss, con- taining, in some places, near one-fifth of the • Sec an account of Black-Comb under the parish of Bootle. t The general average proportion of those who attain the age of 80, is said to bo one in thixty-two ; and in London, one in forty. P l 116 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. breadth of the parish, runs longitudinally through the middle of the greatest part of the land, and divides it into two kinds of soil ; that part near the sea is sandy, inclining to a clay as it comes nearer the moss, and bears the name oiLoKfiehh; that part above the moss consists of heavy mould, with many stones ; this soil becomes more gra- velly as it approaches the base of the mountain, and is called the HighfieUh. The sea has encroached considerably on the land in some parts of this parish ; "old roads and hedges are visible a considerable way beyond [low] water mark." Near Gutterby-bay is a lai'ge rock, called Blacklegs, visible when the tide is out, on which many vessels have been wrecked. A medicinal spring near the shore was formerly much frequented, and was held to be "" a sovereign remedy for the scurvy and gravel." Large trunks of oak and fir-trees have been found in the peat-moss ; and about the latter end of the last century, a tree was dug up, with its roots and branches in a good state of preserva- tion ; the trunk was about seven yards in length, and two in diameter, and was sawn into planks. Nut and acorns have been frequently found at a great depth. One mile south of Bootle, on the Barfield estate, there is a small lake, provincially called a tarn, about 600 yards in circumference, which abovmds with perch and trout. Around here and on the neighbouring morasses, ignes fatui are frequently seen in the evenings. Another tarn, near Gutterby, produces a great quantity of leeches. It is stated, in a communication by the Rev. PARISH OF WHITBECK. 117 '\^'illiam Pearson, in Hutchinson's Cumberland, that " when the wind blows from the east over Black Comb, the inhabitants of the houses which stand close under its base, find it most violent ; -when the wind blows from the sea, the most temperate. In Whicham, behind the moun- tain, it is quite the reverse : so that when ever it is calm in one parish, it is stormy in the other, when it blows from the east or west." The same writer also mentions the following customs and superstitions as then (1794) observ- ed in this parish : — " Newly married peasants h- g com to sow their first crop with, and are called cornlaiicrs. People always keep wake with 1' e dead. . . . The labouring ox is said to kneel at 12 o'clock at night, preceding the day of the nativity; the bees are heard to sing at the same hour. On the morn of Christmas-day, the people breakfast early on hack-piidding, a mess made of sheep's heart, chopped with suet and sweet fruits. To whatever quarter a bull faces in lying on All Hallozc-Even, from thence the wind will blow the greatest part of the winter." The Manor. This manor* Sir William Morthing gave by fine to the prior and convent of Conishead, to which monastery the church also was given by Gamel de Pennington. Mr. John Denton says, "These Morthings and Corbets were anciently seated in IVIillum ; I have seen of their names in writings and evidences, made in the time of • Mr. John Denton says, " the church or chapel." Q. 1 1 8 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. King Henry, or King Edward II,, and to have been men of good worth and quality there ; as, namely, one William de Morthing and John de Morthing, William Corbet and Radulph Corbet. Divers of the Corbets seated themselves in Scot- land, in those famous wars of King Edward I., where their posterity do remain to this day." The manor, with the rectory and advowson, were granted in 1687, to Mr. Lavei'ence Parke, in whose descendants they continued till the year 1807, when they were sold by Charles Parke, Esq., to the Earl of Lonsdale, who is the present proprietor. The Parkes resided at an old mansion at Whitbeck, now occupied as a farm-house.* Monk-Force, a small manor within this parish, was given by William de Meschines to the abbey of St. Mary, in Furness ; and on the dissolution of that house was granted to the Hudlestons of Millom, who sold it. In 1777, it belonged to Edmund Gibson, Esq., of Whitehaven ; from that family it passed to the Lewthwaites, and is now the property of Miss Lewthwaite. Scoggerbar, another manor, was given by Sir William Hudleston to his second son Joseph, who, by the death of his elder brother Ferdinand, became possessed of the lordship of Millom, when the manor was reunited to the said lordship. The Church. The church of Whitbeck, having been given by Gamel de Pennington to the priory of Conishead, is now only a perpetual curacy. It • Lysons. PARISH OF WHITBECK. 119 is not entered in the Valor Ecclesiasticus of Henry YIII. It was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty of the annual value of dl. 14*. Sd. The advowson and tithes, as stated above, were granted in 1GS7, to Mr. Lawrence Parke, with whose descendants they remained until 1807, when they were purchased of Charles Parke, Esq., by the Earl of Lonsdale, the present patron and lay-rector. His lordship is proprietor of half the tithes. The benefice was augmented in 1747 with 200/. by the governors of Queen Ann's bounty, and 250/. given by the patron and impropriator, being the produce of the sale of a portion of the tithes ; a further sum of 200/. was given by the governors about the year 17C0: with these benefactions an estate was bought near Dalton, in Furness. In 1785, the benefice received a further augmentation of 200/. in addi- tion to 200/. from Queen Ann's bounty, with which were purchased a house and land in Whit- beck, now the minister's residence.* In a list of the possessions of the priory of Conishead, the church of Whitbeck occurs as follows : — Decim' ecclie. de Whitbeke viz granos. ot ^ feni iiijA vjs. Ian' &c agn' liijs. iiijc/. vitul'/ £ s. d. pore' auc' ic gallin' xij«. oblac' tribz dicbus S viij xviij viij prcncipalibz vij*. iiijii. in libro paschaliL xxs. In tot'. J List of Incumbents. 1624 John Davies. 16. . Richard Huatson. • Lysoni. Q 2 120 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. 1673 William Robinson. 1679 Lancelot Walker. 1709 John Sawrey. 1725 Daniel Noble. 1731 John Romney. 1734 John Jackson. 1736 John Bradley. 1737 Thomas Green. 1773 Thomas Smith. 1775 John Atkinson. 1791 John Brocklebank. 1825 Thomas Caddy. The church is dedicated to St. Mary. It is an ancient edifice, but much modernized by the insertion of sash windows. It consists of a nave and chancel of the same height and width, with a bell-gable at its western end, which carries two bells, surmounting the entrance. The font is of stone, and is placed near the door. The roof of the nave is open to the timber work. About sixty years since, many of the beams were cut down by Mr. Edmund Gibson, of Barfield, stew- ard for the lordship of Millom, by which the north wall sustained serious injury. In 1794, the chancel was left unroofed : this was probably occasioned by the alterations now mentioned. It has been " curtailed of its fair proportion ;" and a monumental effigy, said (we know not on what authority) to be " of one of the lords of Whit- beck," is now lying exposed to the weather, the east wall having been rebuilt some feet nearer the nave. There is a pointed arch between the nave and chancel, the piers of which have been removed. The Ten Commandments, the Lord's PARISH OF WHITBECK. 121 Prayer, and the Apostles' Creed, are placed on the north and south walls. The only monument in the church is one on the south wall of the nave — a marble tablet, bearing this inscription : To the Memory of those regretted Relatives of whom, within half a Century, Four successive generations departed. This record of mortality is inscribed by a frateful Survivor. JOHN PEARSON, was interred Feb. 7, 1772, aged 81. FRANCES, his wife, (a Postlethwaitc,)..Nov.23, 1772, 70. WILLIAM, their son Feb. 8, 1795, 62. HANNAII,hi3wife, (aPonsonby) June 15, 1800, 61. JOHN, the eldest son of William Oct. 31, 1816, . 51. f HANNAH Mar. 7, 1802, 8. HUChUdren) JOHN, Julyl9,1818, 17. C ELIZABETH, Nov. 2, 1818, 20. JOSEPH, May 9, 1829, 19. HANNAH, July30,1830, 20. Eheu .' fugaces labuntur anni. Miscellaneous Antiquities. At Hall-foss are the remains of a Druidical monument, called Standing Stones, which formed a circle twenty-five yards in diameter. In 1794, they were described as consisting of " eight mas- sy rude columns ; some of which have lately been broken and taken away." At Annaside, near the sea, is a similar monu- ment of antiquity, forming a circle twenty yards in diameter, consisting of twelve stones. On the north-west side are the ruins of a building through which an old road leads ; but nothing is known respecting its antiquity. 122 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. In a field near Gutterby is another monument composed of thirty stones, and called Kirkstones. They form parts of two circles, an exterior and an inner one, — similar in position to those at Stonehenge in Wiltshire. The interior range has two sides. The stones are larger, and the circles have been more extensive, than those in this parish previously described. About 200 yards to the south, is a large cairn of stones, about fifteen yards in diameter, having massy stones for its base. Charities. Mr. Henry Parke, of Kendal, mercer, (a native of this parish,) left 400/. the interest thereof to be distributed to six poor people, nominated by the churchwardens and four of the most substan- tial inhabitants, who are to be nominated and appointed by the Bishop of Chester. In 1722, it was certified that an hospital was built for the said poor people, and that the money left by Mr. Parke had been invested in lands which yielded 24/. per annum. The hospital was built by the parishioners. In 1722, there was a poor-stock of 30/. the interest of which was applied to the use of the poor. The following benefactions to the parish are entered in the register : — In the year 1580, John Kitchin gave 20 marks, of which half the interest was to be applied to the use of tlie poor, and the other half to the church. In 1617, Lawrence Parke gave 10/. for the like purpose. In 1634, Arthur Myers gave 10/. for the use of the school- master. In 1674, Henry Robinson gave 51. for PARISH OF WHITBECK. 123 the like purpose. Henry Parke and John Hud- dleston gave each a donation for the use of the poor, on their going into the hospital. In 1735, Agnes Walker gave 10/. for the use of the poor. And in 1737, Hudleston Parke gave the interest of 61. for the hke purpose. ^fic Dari0t) of l^ootlr. HE parish of Bootle, other- wise Biitle, Bothill, or Bo- tyU, forms part of the seigniory of IMillom, now belonging to the Earl of Lonsdale. It extends about six miles along the coast, and is about two miles in breadth. It is bounded on the south, by Whitbecki on the east, by Corney and the mountain Black- Comb ; on the north, by Waberthwaite ; and on the west, by the Irish Sea. This parish appears remarkable for the longevity of its inhabitants. Since the year 1778, but not previously, the ages of those buried here have been given in the register ; and like many other places in this county, the average age is very great. The Messrs. Lysons state that of the in- habitants buried here, before the year 1816, about one in six were aged from 80 to 89 inclusive ;* and one in forty-two were aged from 90 to ^% inclusive. In a population of nearly 800 inhabi- tants, there were, during the last year (1840), only four funerals ; the ages were as follow : — 88 years, 92 years, 14 months, and the fourth (a • The general average proportion of those who attain the age of 80, \i l«id to be one in thiity-two \ and in London, one in fortjr. PARISH OF BOOTLE. 125 pauper, whose age was unknown) was supposed to be the oldest. In this parisli is a small bay called Selkers Bay, where it is said that in calm weather the sunken remains of small vessels or gallies can be seen, whicli are traditionally said to have been left there on an invasion by the Romans. Esk-Meols, wliich extends along the coast, is remarkable for containing a large rabbit-warren ; and on this estate there are the remains of an entrenchment, certainly Roman, as altars and coins have been found in it. " It was doubtless one of the smaller stations constructed for the defence of the coast in that remote corner." Mr. John Denton says, " Next unto Whitbeck, in the comon high street,* more towards the west, is Butle, where of old stood a mansion of the family of the Cowplands. They bear for arms, or, a bend sable, on a canton and 2 barrs gules. I have seen a register of their descent ; namely S' Richard C'owpland, k', Alane his son, father to Richard (who dyed seized hereof in the 2Gth year K*' Ed. i.) and left his estate to John his son, father to anotlier Richard C'owpland. They continued in the issue maile till the tim3 of Richard the second and king Henry the iiii. and now their lands arc transfer'd into other familyes." The family of Copeland of Rootle, where they had a mansion-house, became extinct about the time of Richard II. Their arms were — Or, two bars and a canton, gules, over all a bend, sable. The colieircsscs married Iludleston, Penington, and Senhouse. • The road leading from Boolle to Whilbcck. R 12G ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The name of this parish is supposed by some to be derived from the beacon* on the top of the hill above the town, which was fired upon the discovery of any ships upon the Irish seas which might threaten an invasion, by the watchmen who lay in booths by the beacon. And for the support of this service, the charge or payment of seawake was provided.f • " AU the ancient altars found in Ireland, and now distinguished by the name of Cromlechs, or sloping stones, were originally called Bothal, or the house of God; and they seem to be of the same species as those mentioned in the Book of Genesis, called by the Hebrews, Bethel, which has the same signification as the Irish, Bothal." — Beauford^ s Druidism Revived. The Greeks had their Betulia. Sanchoniatho mentions stones called Betulia, which possessed the power of motion, as if they were instinct with life. These were, in all probability, sacred rocking stones ; num- bers of which, erected by the Druids, are to be found in various parts of our own island. — Faber's Dissert, on the Cabiri, vol. 2, p. 389, note, toI. i. pp. 110— 112. Betullo, a city in Spain, mentioned by Pomponius Mela, lib. 2, cap. 6, is derived from Beth-El, the house of God. Ibid, vol. i. p. 212, note. Bethulia, Judith 4, 6, and elsewhere in that book. Bootle may possibly have the same derivation. f In the 7 Eliz. there was a decree in the Duchy court of Lancaster, for settling the customs of the queen's tenar.ts, late belonging to the abbey of Fumess : Inter alia — It is further ordered and decreed, by the said chancellor and council, by the full assent, consent, and agreement of the said customary tenants [in the parish of Hawkshead], that the said customary tenants, their heirs and assigns, being tenants of the premises, shall for ever, at their own proper costs and charges, prepare, furnish, and have in readiness, when they shall be thereunto required and com- manded by the queen's majesty her heirs and successors, or by any of her other oflirers suflicicntly authorized for the same, forty able men, horsed, harnessed, and weaponed according to their ability by statute of armory, and horse meet to serve in the war against the enemies of the queen's majesty her heirs and successors, for the defence of the haven and castle called the Peel. of Fodra, or otherwise upon that coast, with, out allowance of wages, coat, or conduct money : or eUewhere ; as need PARISH OF BOOTLE. 127 Many of the rude weapons and tools of the early inhabitants of Britain, formed of hard stone or fiint, and resembling those of the South Sea Islands, have been discovered in this neighbour- hood A heavy stone hammer, seven inches m length, and four and a half in width, was found at Bootle in 1813. ■ n ■, Black-Comb, a sohtary mountain of gloomy aspect, takes its name from the blackness of the heath with which its sides are clad. He who loves " to sit on rocks, to muse o'er sea and tell, will be amply repaid by climbing to the summit of Black-Comb. " Close by the Sea, lone sentinel, Black-Comb liis forward station keeps ; He breaks the sea's tumultuous swell, — And ponders o'er the level deeps. lie listens to the bugle horn. Where Eskdale's lovely valley bends; Eyes Walney's early liclds of corn ; Sea-birds to Holker's woods he sends." Althou^di the elevation of this mountain is greatly inferior to that of many of its neighbour ciants— being only two-thirds of that of bca-I' ell, Helveilyn, and Skiddaw,— yet on the authority of that experienced surveyor, the late Colonel Mud<'e it is said to command a more extensive view Uian any other point in Britain. "Ireland he saw from 'it more than once, but not when the sun was above the horizon." The summit ol this mountain was used during the late ordnance sur- vey, whence it is said that fourteen counties ot ,haU require, and shall be thereunto commanded and appointed out of the realm, having allowance of coat and conduct money and wages as inland men have.— Mco'son and Burn. R 2 128 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. England and Scotland can be seen. On a clear day Talk-on-the-Hill, in Staffordshire, can be distinguished at a distance of nearly 100 miles; and it is distinctly visible from the high lands above Everton, near Liverpool, and from Bid- stone, in Cheshire. Black-Comb is one of the first objects seen by the mariner on coming from Ireland. " The base of the mountain being on the sea-shore, the prospect from its summit abounds with gi'eat variety. The sublime ocean oc- cupies one half of the circumference : rising from its surface, on the south, are seen Peel Castle and the Isle of Walncy. The Isle of Man is a con- spicuous object in the west. A fine indented coast is the bulwark of Cumberland against the sea ; on which are seen Egremont, Bootle, Mun- caster, Ravenglass, Broughton, and the pecu- liarly beautiful shores of Duddon. Far in the east is an assemblage of mountains that we sup- posed to be those of Coniston and Ambleside : perhaps Ilardknot and Wrynose, Langdale Pikes, and Helvellyn." A cavity on this mountain is supposed to have been the crater of a volcano at some distant period : out of the lower corner flows a rivulet into Whicham, which springs from the centre of the crater : the depth and diameter of the cavity is several hundred yards ; the fragments on the margin are of vitrified matter, with some chrys- talizations. There is a similar crater or cavity, on the Old Man, at the head of Coniston Water in Lancashire, and another on Helvellyn ; but these differ so far, that they have each a lake at the mouth of their cavities.* • Rev. W. Pearson, in Hutcliinson. parish of bootle. 129 The Town of Bootle. Bootle is an ancient market-town, " supposed to be the smallest in England." It is about six miles S.S.E. of Ravenglass, and about nine N.N.E. of Millom church. The market was granted to John de Hudlcston, in 1347, to be held on Wed- nesday, and a fair for four days at the feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross* (September 14.) A butcher-market is now held on Saturday ; but there has been no corn-market for many years. There are also fairs holden here, but the dates are often changed. The market-cross is surrounded by steps, and has four shields at the base of the shaft ; three of which, if not originally plain, are now defaced ; but that on the south side is charged with the arms of the lludlestons — formerly lords of Mil- lom. The dissenting chapel was built in 17S0 by Mr. Joseph Whitridge, a native of the parish, and a member of Lady Huntington's connection, for the use of which it was erected and endowed Avith 1000/. vested in trustees, who have since placed it in the hands of the Independents.f Captain Shaw, R.N., the founder of the new school in this parish, has a residence near the town. Cross-house, a little to the north of the church, is the residence of Christopher Hobson, Esq. The Church. The benefice is a rectory, and the church is dedicated to St. Michael. It was given to the • Cart. 21 Edw. III. m. 17. t Parson and White. 130 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. abbey of St. Mary, at York, by " Godard the Sewer," or Godard Dapifer, the second lord of Millom. In the year 1527 the abbot and convent presented a rector; in 1G60 Wilham Pennington, Esq. presented; and in 1664, a rector was in- stituted on the presentation of the king. In 1717 Robert Pennington, Esq. was certified as the patron. Lord Muncaster, his descendant, sold it to .... Wakefield, Esq. of Kendal, from whom the ad- vowson was purchased by the Earl of Lonsdale, the present proprietor. The benefice is valued in the King's Books at 19/. 17s. S^d. and was certified to tlie governors of Queen Ann's bounty at 70/. 2s. 2d. It pays a pension of 4s. to St. Bees. The registers commence in 1655 : but, in se- veral places, they have been most neghgently kept, and have suffered very much from damp. The present vector, however, bestows more care on them : under his siirvcilhince, they will be preserved from future injury. There are no en- tries of marriages before justices of the peace during the Commonwealth. The rectory of Bootle is thus entered in the Valor Ecclesiasticus of Henry VIII. : — Botyll Hector" eccl'ie. Ricus. Brounc incumbens. Rector' p'dca. valet in „ Mansione cum gleba ette- ? ."■ nement' p. am. \ ' ^ Decim'granos.xj'xiijs-iiijd~~ feni .\iiJ5. iiijt/. dccini' lan'et agncir Ixiijs.iiijJ. decim' pisciu. marinos. vj«. viijt/. lini &. canabi ^xix xv iijs. iiij(^. columbar' ij.9. minul' ot privat' decim' cum oblac' lit in libro paschal' Ixxiij*. iiijc^. ^ In tolo d. ii'j iiij '"xx s. d. viij PARISH OF BOOTLE. 131 Eepris' viz in Sinod' ijs. ^d. procurac' ) £ s. d. iiij«. v^. annual' pens' > — x vj — X vj priori See. Boge iiijs. 3 £ *. d. Et valet clare xix xvij ii Xma. ps. inde ^xxxixviijob'q List of Rectors , Richard Brown, occurs 1535. IGGO Richard Ilutton. 1664 Richard Ilutton, S.T.B., oh. 1704.* 1704 Henry Holmes. 1729 Daniel Steele, oh. 1764. 1764 Miles Wennington. 1771 Henry Crookbaine. 1776 Thomas Smith. 1789 Thomas Smith, oh. 1807. 1807 James Satterthwaitc, D. D.f 1813 John Fleming, Senior, oh. 1S35. 1835 Alexander Scott, M.A. Within the last three or four years the church has been enlarged at a very considerable expence. The parishioners came forward with their sub- scriptions in a style of liberality which reflects the highest credit upon them ; and they were assisted in the good work by a donation of 84/., from Tlie Society for building and enlarging Churches ; and " though last, not least" by the gift of 100/., from William, Karl of Lonsdale, the patron of the living. The church of St. Michael of Bootle is an an- • A benefactor to the school. t Afterwards rector of Lowthei. 132 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. cient structure, but has undergone very extensive alterations. It was repaired in the latter end of the last century, and again, as already stated, in the year 1837, when north and south transepts were added to the simple original plan of a nave and chancel. The entrance, by a porch at the western end, is surmounted by a bell-turret, car- rying two bells. The alterations effected lately have been so extensive as to render it impossible for one previously unacquainted with the church to form any opinion of its former appearance. The changes, however, in this instance have happily been made in good taste. The windows are narrow lancets with dripstones. The interior is neatly pewed ; and the middle aisle is not en- cumbered by the pulpit and reading-desk. The chancel arch is circular. A gallery has been lately erected over the entrance at the western end. The font, placed in a pew at the west end, is octagonal,* with a capacious circular basin. It is quite plain, excepting a string-course round the centre. The top part, which is larger than the pedestal, bears eight shields, two on each side, • The octagon had a mystical meaning in the ancient Christian church, and has been designated as " the most appropriate form for the font, and the most beautiful as well as the most ecclesiastical." Some verses may be appropriately added here, which were written by St. Ambrose, upwards of fourteen centuries ago, and inscribed over the font of St. Tecla. " Octachorum sauctos templum surrexit in usus, Octagonus fons est, muncre dignus eo. Hoc numcro dccuit sacri baptismatis aulam Surgere, quo populis vera salus rediit Luce resurgentis Chrisli, qui claustra rcsolvit Mortis, et e lumulis, suscitet examines." PARISH OF BOOTLE. 133 with this inscription in text-hand : — Un nomtnr patrt ii filii &• spirit' eiirtia. There are also the initials, R. B. and on another shield, a bugle horn* and the initials, j ff. The former letters might be the initials of the lord of the seigniory of Millom, or the incumbent, or the abbot of St. Mary's, at York, to whom the church belonged.f • Erroneously stated in Hutchinson's Cumberland to be an " emble- matical anchor." The font is incorrectly described, and the inscription is given wrong, in that publication: see Gentleman's Magazine, Jan. 1795, where the work is severely censured for its general inaccuracy. t "By an antient Ecclesiastical Constitution (A. D. 12.36,) a font of stone was required to be placed in every church, and it was to be cipaci- ous enough fur total immersion. At this early piTiod Fonts appear to have been regarded with peculiar reverence, and are frequently preserved, whatever changes the church may have undergone : for this reason Norman fonts are very numerous: they are frequently richly orna- mented and well worthy of preservation : their form is usually square, supported on five legs, or small pillars ; or circular, at first sup- ported also upon legs, but at a subsequent period assuming the form of a cup, supported on a single pillar or pedestal, and riclily ornamented, many examples of which occur during the later Norman period: some- times they are in the form of a tub, richly ornamented, or with four small pillars placed againSl it, giving it the appearance at first sight of being square : they are also sometimes octagonal. Early English Fonts are frequently octangular, but commonly circular, and sometimes square ; it is not always easy to distinguish them from the later examples of the preceding style, excepting where the ornaments peculiar to this style are found. Fonts of this style are less common tlian any of the others, ex- cepting perhaps the Decorated : these are usually octagonal, sometimes hexagonal ; and though the cup-like form is frequently continued, the pedestal is also octagonal or hexagonal. In thi; Pcrpendioilar style, the octagon form is almost invariably used ; but in other respects the variety is almost endless. Fonts of this style are frequently very splendid, and the workmanship is usually better than in any of the others ; they aro frequently richly panelled. At this period we often find wooden covers of a pyramidal fonn, corresponding in ornaments and workmanship with the font itself: a few of these may, possibly, remain of an earlier period. S 134 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERVVENT. This font, which is of marble, has been (perhaps unnecessarily) painted. It is placed in a corner. This cover ;:, in some rare instances, fixed to the font, Tvith an opening at the side 'o enable the priest to make use of it. On the continent, fonts are ' : uently enclosed in a distinct building, either attached to the church, cr S' dosed within it, and called a Baptistery : the only example remainir lu E^-gland is believed to be that at Luton, Bedfordshire. Fonts are usually of stone or marble, but sometimes of lead ; and that of Canterbury ciliiedral, used for the baptism of infants of the royal family, ■was of silver. They are usually placed at the west end, near the south entrance of the church. " From the time of the Reformation to the days of puritanic fury in the reign of Charles I., there was a strong propensity to remove or neglect the Fout, and use a basin instead. This was checked by the church as much as possible on all occasions ; and by the 81st Canon of 1603 it is directed that, ' According to a former constitution too much neglected in many places, there shall be a Font of stone in every church and chapel, where baptism is to be ministred : the same to be set in the antient usual place. In which onely Font the minister shall baptize publickly.' And among the enquiries directed to be made by the churchwardens, in 1597- 1604, &c., one is, whether the Font has been removed from its accustomed place, and whether they use a basin or other vessel. That all these efforts ■were ultimately in many cases of no avail, may be learned from the nu- merous examples we continually meet with, but we rarely have the tale so well told as in the following extracts from the parish account of St. Martin's church, Leicester. 1645. 'For a bason to be used at baptism, 5s. ' For a standard to bear the same, 15*. ' For laying the same in marble colour, 5*. 1651, May 7. ' Received of George Smith, for a stone belonging to the Font, 7s.' 1G61, Feb. 4. *.\greed, that the Font of stone formerly belonging to the church shall be set up in the antient place, and that the other now standing near the desk be taken down.' ' At a parish meeting the new Font, fashioned and placed agreeahle with the puritanic times, was ordered to be taken down, and the old stone one to be erected where it formerly stood.' 1662, April 8. ' Paid widow Smith for the Font-stone, being the price her husband paid for it, 7».' PARISH OF BOOTLE. 135 SO that six of its sides are now concealed by the walls and pews. A brass plate on the south wall of the chancel bears the effigies of a knight in armour, with the following inscription* : — Jljrrc Itftf) Sir Ujugfir asUrto, fcnygfit, latf of Ific sfllcr to lijinge lIDtoarti tl)c bj. tofiirf) Sir |»ugftr teas maUr ftnsglit.at /ttiissrHorougti ftlUf. ill J1C 8rre of ourf Horfi, I'l 17, aiiD Sirti tf)c secoiiU Baj of fHarrJf, in tJ)c ptrr of our E01I) ©oil, 1 JO'2. On the north wall of the chancel is a tablet with this inscription : — In Memory of JOHN BENSON of Esk Meals, interred in this church, July 19tli, 1764, aged 38 years. And also of BRIDGET his wife, and daughter of Daniel Steele, Heretofore rector of Bootle, Interred May 30th, 1761, Aged 24 years. On the south wall of the chancel is a hatch- ment, with these arms — Argent, on a fess sable three stags' heads cabossed, or, impahng . . , three " Unfortunately ' the fashion of the puritanic times' still prevails in too many instances, to the disgrace of the authorities, whose duty it is to see that the canons of the church arc otcyed. So lately as the year 1838 the only Font in a parish church, Cambridge, was a pint basin standing upon a four-legged stool. If such examples are suffered to remain in like places, how ran we be surprised at the preyalcnce of so unseemly a cus- tom." — Glossary of Architecture. * See an account of this Sir Hugh Askew, under Seton. s 2 136 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. greyhounds current in pale, sable; and bearing this inscription : — KICARDVS HVTTON, S.T.B. Ecclesise Botelensis Rector Doctissimus, Immortalitatem, quam Parochianis per Quadraginta Annos, tarn Moribus, quam Doctrina, sedulo prjcdicavit, Ipse tandem consecutus est, Calend. Jul. A. D. MDCCIV. Cum Vixisset annos LXXI. A board on the front of the west gallery bears this inscription : — This church was enlarged in the year 1837, by which means 148 addi- tional sittings were obtained ; and in consequence of a grant from the incorporated society for promoting the enlargement, building, and repair- ing of churches and chapels, 84 of that number are hereby declared to be free and imappropriated for ever, in addition to 315 sittings formerly provided, 30 of which were free. ALEXANDER SCOTT, Minister, JOHN SHAW, ■ Churchwardens, JOHN BROCKLEBANK, > We the undersigned certify to the above : ALEXANDER SCOTT, Minister, ISAAC SHAW, Esq. > i„i,,bitants. WILLIAM GRICE, Sen. i Signed, H. JONES UNDERWOOD, Surveyor. Bootlc, dated this eighth day of January, 1838. There are also inscriptions to the memory of the Rev. Daniel Steele, rector of the parish, ob. 1764, aged 75 ; and the Rev. John Wennington, B.A., oh. 1761, aged 34. The rectory-house, a substantial stone building, closely adjoining the church, and surrounded by noble trees, was rebuilt about three years since. Seton Nunnery. Lands in Seton, or, as it was then called, Leke- ley, were granted to the abbey of St. Mary, PARISH OF BOOTLE. 137 Holme-Cultram, by Gunild, daughter of Henry de Boyvill fourth lord of Millom, in the following form : — Universis sancta; matris ecclesiae filiis, Gunilda filia Hen- rici filii Arturi, salutem in domino. Noverit univcrsitas vestra me mera; charitatis intuitu, in libera potestate et viduitate mea, dedisse, concessisse ct hac pra^senti carta mea coufirmasse, Deo et beatac Mari;e de Holmcoltram et mona- chis ibidem Deo servientibus, in liberam et pcrjietuam ele- emosynam, pro salute anima? moa^ et omnium antecessorum et succcssorum meorum, totam terram mcam quam llenricus pater mens dedit mihi in maritagium et carta sua confirmavit in Lekeley, cum omnibus pertinentiis et aisiamentis ad ean- dem terram pertinentibus, sine ullo retcnemento, in bosco, in piano, in agris, in culturis, in pratis, pascuis, et pastursi, in aquis et molendinis, et omnibus aliis locis ct rebus, libera, quiete, pacifice, integre, et honorifice, ab omni seculari ser- vitio, consuctudine, exactione (salvo forinseco servitio quan- tum pertinet ad tantam terram de feodo unius militis de tola terra quie est inter Esk et Doden). Pra'terea, dcdi et con- cessi ct hac pra'senti charta meaconfirraavi eisdemmonachis et hominlbus ipsorum, omnes libertatos mihi concessas per cartam Hcnrici lilii Arturi patris mei, scilicet ut habcant scalingas ubi utilius visum fuerit in Crochcrch, et communem pasturam cum horainibus pr;rdicti Ilenrici (ihi Arturi et ha?redum et succcssorum suoruni. Et ut animnlia eorum et hominum suorum tarn longc cant ad pasccndum in furestani praedicti Henrici et hwredum et succcssorum suorum ubi voluerint, ut noctibus possint redire domum. Et si forte contigerit animalia sua una nocte in forcsta mancre absque consuctudine, sine placito et calumpnia domum redire permit- tentur. Ilanc auteni prfedictam terram cum omnibus perti- nentiis, ego et hferedes et successores mei warrantizabinius prwfatis monacbis contra omnes homines in pcrpetuum. In cujus rei testimonium, &ic. John de Ilodeliston (Iludleston) for the licalth of his soul, and of the soids of all his ancestors and successors, confirmed to God and the monks of Holnie-Cultram serving God there, all the land of Lekeley, whicli they had by tlie gift of Gunild, the daughter of Henry Boyvill, fourth 138 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. lord of Millom, son of Arthur. The witnesses were — " Miche. de Hartecla tunc vice-comitte Cumbr. . Thorn, de Culwenne , Robto. de haverington . Robto. de Feritate . Thorn, de Neuton . & Robto. de Whyterigg niihti- bus . Hugone de INIoriceby . Rico, de Cleterue . Johe. de Morthing & ahis."* Joan, widow of the above John de Hodehston, for the health of her own soul, of her late hus- band's, and of all her ancestors and successors, made a confirmation to the monks of Holme- Cultram, of all the lands in Lekeley which they had by the above charter of Gunild, daughter of Henry Boyvill. Witnesses — "Dno. Patric. de Wirkinton . Dno. Johe. de Langeluierth . Dno. Wydone de Boyuilla . Nicholao de Mo- risceby . Johe. de Cambtona . Hugone fre. dni. patricii de Wirkinton . Johe. de Thuay- thes . Willo. de Estonhing . Et aliis."f We cannot ascertain the precise date of the foundation of this nunnery : it appears to have taken place in or befoi-e the time of Henry Boy- vill, fourth lord of Millom, (see parish of iNIillom) who lived about the commencement of the thir- teenth century, as Mr. John Denton says, " the said Henry Fitz Arthur gave other lands in Leakley, now called Seaton, unto the nuns of Leakley, or Seaton, which of late were granted unto Sir Hugh Askew, Knight.J • From an ancient charter (published in Archoeologia jEliana,) the o.-iginal of which was, in 1830, " in the possession of William John Charl- ton, of Hesleyside, Esq. and came into his family, iu 1680, by the marriage of his great-great-grandfather with Mary, daughter of Francis Salkeld, of Whitehall, in the parish of All-Hallows, in Cumberland, Esq." t Ibid. + The Askew family derive their descent from Thnislon de Bosco. PARISH OF BOOTLE. 139 " The deed of feofment, made by the said Henry Fitz Arthur to Goynhild his daughter, approves the same, for therein is excepted as follows — ' Excepta terra in Leakley quam ded'i Sanctis monidl/b//s servientibtis Deo ef Sanctce Mariie in LeehleijaJ " The nunnery was founded for Benedictine nuns, and was dedicated to St. Leonard. The cIuutIi of Irton appears to have been appropriated to the nunnery very soon after the foundation. The date of that appropriation, A.D. 1227, is given by Tanner on the authority of the register of Walter Grey, Archbishop of York. Henry, Duke of Lancaster (afterwards Henry IV.), by his charter, in 1357, setting forth that the priory of Seaton was so poor that it could not sufficiently maintain the prioress and nuns, grants to them in aid tlie hospital of St. Leonard at Lancaster, with power to appoint the chantry priest to officiate in the said hospital, in the fol- lowing form : — Henricus dux Lancastriae, comes Derbia?, Lincoliiiw, ic Leycestrioe, & Senescallus Aiiglitc, Omnibus ad quos proc- sentes literae porvenerint salutem. Sciatis pro co quod accepimus ex testimonio iidedigno, quod Prioratus de Setoii in comitatu Cumbria? ila exilis existit, quod ad sustenta- tionem Priorisste & monialium cjusdem Prioratus sufRcere non possit : Nos in honorc Dei 4c sancti Leonardi, & prae- textu liccntia; excellenlissimi principis domini nostri Regis Anglif-p Sc Franci.c illiistris, nobis, & pra?fatis Priorissa? & monialibus per literas Patcntcs ipsius Regis factw, dc Hos- pitali sancti Leonardi de Lancastria, quod jam vacat, k collation! nostr.c de jure spcctat, auxilium sustcntationis who lived, in the reign of John, at Aikskeugh, near Mllloni, and after- wards at Graymains, near Muncastf r. Anne Askew, whose name stands 80 eminent in the pages of martyrology, was one of his descendant. — Beauties of England S^c. xv. 234. 140 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. earundem Priorissae & monialium apponere volentes, dedi- mus, & concessimus pro nobis et haeredibus nostris, quantum in nobis est, praefatis Priorissae k monialibus dictum Hos- pitale, cum omnibus terris & possessionibus ad idem Hos- tale spectantibus. Habendum eisdem Priorissae et Monial- ibus, et successoribus suis, in puram & perpetuam elemosi- nam, tanquam dicto Prioratui annexum imperpetuum. Concessimus etiam eisdem Priorissae &c monialibus quod ilia cantaria, quae solebat esse in dicto Hospitali de uno capellano, divina singulis diebus celebrando, valeat in dicto Prioratu, per easdem Priorissam k moniales inveneri sine impedimento nostri, vel haeredum nostrorum. Ita semper quod Burgenses nostri de Lancaster, ad hoc concordare voluerint, S^ quod faciant elemosinas, &. alia onera eidem Hospitali, de jure et ab antiquo incumbencia. In cujus rei testimonium has Literas nostras fieri fecimus Patentes. Teste apud Prestone, primo die ducatus nostri sexto.* De eodem Hospitali. Juratores dicunt super Sacramentum suum quod Johannes rex Angliae fundabat Hospitale sancti Leonardi apud Lan- castrian!, pro uno Majistro, & uno capellano ic novem pau- peribus, quorum tres erint leprosi, &; alii sani. Quilibet eorum capiet per diem unum panem qui ponderabit octavam partem unius petrae, ^' habebunt potagium tres dies in sep- timana; videlicit, die Dominica, die Luna' i.\' die Veneris, valet G.lib. 6.s. S.d.f Thomas York, abbot of Holme-Cultram, by indenture, dated ISth October, 1459, leased to Elizabeth Creft, prioress of Seton, all the lands between the rivers Esk and Duddon, for twelve years, at the yearly rent of 20.5. The following are the particulars of the entry of the nunnery in the Valor Ecclesiast'ictis of Henry VIII. Prioratus Monialiu' De Seton. Joh'a Seton priorissa ib'm. Com' Cumbr'. Tempalia. • Dugdalc's Monast. Aug. — " Ex autog. in officio annonim." t Ibid. — Inq. ad quod damnum. PARISH OF BOOTLE. 141 Valet in £ s. d. Situ prioratus pdict'. cum terr' dnicalibs. > ^^^^ eidm. annexat' per annu. S Redd' ^- firmis divs'. tent', in WTiitebyke 1 vs. tent', in Furdes iijs. iiijci. un' tent'. > — xiiij liij in BoUe vjs. In toto. j Com' Lancastr'. Tempalia. Valet in Redd' A- firmis divs'. terr' Sf tent', in villa Lancastr' p. annu. £ s. d. iiij £ viij s. iiij d. viij \- Com' Cumbr'. Sp'ualia Valet in Gleba ecclie. de Hirton cu. terr' adjacen' p. am. Decim' granos xxij*. viij \\]d. ob' J Elemos' viz in Elemos' dat anti'.paupibz.in die parasphise tam in pcio. duos, quarlcrios. siliginis qam.indenar'exfund'iyantiquaconsuet' £ s. d. — XXV — ob' £ *. d. Et valet Clare xij xij — Xma. ps. inde — xxv ij T s. V £ s. X.X d. iij d. ob' ob' ob' 142 ALLERDAiE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. At the dissolution, the possessions of this nunnery were of the annual value of 12/. 125. 6d. according to Dugdale, or, by Speed's valuation, 13/. 17*. 4f/. Tanner says "Henry Kirby was accounted patron about the time of the dissolu- tion." In the year 1542 (33rd Henry VIII.), the nunnery was granted to Sir Hugh Askew, knight, to hold of the king in caphe by the ser- vice of the twentieth part of one knight's fee, and the rent of 9s. 2d. to be paid yearly into the court of augmentations. Sir Hugh settled the same upon his wife (a daughter of Sir John Hudleston), and she, after his death, marrying into the family of the Penningtons of Muncaster, gave the same to her younger son, William Pennington. It is now the property of Edward Wakefield, Esq. of Kendal, by purchase of John, Lord Muncaster, a descendant of the Penning- tons. In the 5th and Cth Philip and Mary, Thomas Reve and Nicholas Pynde, of London, gentlemen, purchased of the crown the above-named rent of 9*. 2d. together with divers free rents in Seton late belonging to the nunnery. Of Seton and the above Sir Hugh Askew, we have the following account in Sandford's MS. Account of Cumberland : — " Ffour miles south- ward stands Seaton, an estate of j€500 per annum, sometimes a religious house, got by one Sir Hugo Askew, yeoman of the seller to Queen Catharine in Henry Eight's time, and born in this contry. And when that Queen was divorced from her husband, this yeoman was destitute. And he applied for help to [the] Lo. Chamberlain for some place or other in the king's service. PARISH OF BOOTLE. 143 The Lord Steward knew him well, because he had helpt to a cup [of] wine ther before, but told him he had no place for him but a Charcoal carrier. ' Well' quoth this monsir Askew, ' help me in with one foot, and let me gett in the other as I can.' And upon a great holiday, the king looking out at some sports. Askew got a courtier, a friend of his, to stand before the king ; and Askew gott on his velvet cassock and his gold chine, and baskett of chercole on his back, and marched in the king's sight with it. 'O,' saith tlie king, ' now I like yonder fellow well, that disdains not to doe his dirty office in his dainty clothes : what is he ?' Says his friende that stood by on ])urpose, 'It is M' Askew, that was yeoman of the seller to the late Queen's ma'"' and now glad of this poor place to keep him in y' ma"'' ser- vice, which he will not forsake for all the world.' The king says, ' I had the best wine when he was i'th celler. He is a gallant wine-taster : let him have his place againe ;' and aftei wards knighted him ; and he sold his place, and married the daughter of Sir John Hudleston; (and purchased* this religious place of Seaton, nye wher he was borne, of an ancient h'eehold family,) and settled this Seaton upon her, and she afterwards married monsir Penington, Lo : of iMontcaster, and had Rlr. Joseph and a yonger son with Penington, and gave him this Seaton." There are few remains of the conventual build- ings now left : some part of the priory-chapel is still standing, particularly a fine window with • Qu. Had ft grant of? T 2 144 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. lancets, in the style of the thirteenth century. Seton-hall, formerly a part of the conventual buildings, and subsequently the residence of Sir Hugh Askew, is now occupied as a farm-house. Charities. The Old School. — This school is endowed with about 21/. per annum arising from several be- quests : — 200/. was given by Air. Singleton ; 50/. by the Rev. Richard Hutton, B.D. rector of Bootle, who died in 1704 ; and several other benefactors. The sum of 416/. lis. is vested in the harbour of Whitehaven. For the endowment the master educates gratuitously six children of this parish, and also the children from three estates in the parish of Corney — Middleton-place, White- stone, and Kinmont ; and from the estate of Annaside, in the parish of Whitbeck. The Neio School. — A very handsome and com- modious school-house was erected, in 1830, by Captain Shaw, R.N. who resides in this parish. Both boys and girls receive their education here. The salaries of the master and mistress are raised by subscription. Poor Stock. — There is an antient poor-stock of 20/. belonging to the parish ; the interest of which was distributed annually to the poor, on St. Thomas's day. This has not been paid since the new poor-law came into operation. Ann Hodgson's Bequest. — Ann Hodgson, a native of Bootle, left 50/. the interest to be given annually to the poor who do not receive parochial relief. tTftc Davm of fttillom ONTAINS the townships of Bh-ker and Awsthwaite, Millom Above, Millom Be- low, and Chapel Sucken,and the parochial chapclries of Ulpha and Thwaites. It has been otherwise spelt — . 3Iinian,Mil/iam,and Milium. This"parishinhe extreme southern part of the county; and is bounded on the east, by the Duddon, which divides it from Furness in Lan- cashire ; on the north, by the Esk, which divides it from the parish of Muncaster, and the chapelry of Eskdale; on the west, by the parishes ot Waberthwaite, Corney, Bootle, Whitbcck, and Whicham ; and on the south, by the moutii of the Duddon. The length of this parish, troni north to south, is about eighteen miles, and its average breadth from two to four. This jjarish appears isolated by the mountauis and the Duddon. The southern part is in general fertile : but a large portion in the north consists of wastes and pasture-grounds. The chapelry of Ulpha contains extensive woodlands and mountam tracts, with some good grazing ground; and Thwaites cliapelrv affords excellent pasture. Part of the parish is much exposed to the winds from 146 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. the Irish Sea, and vegetation is frequently retarded by the beating rains or the driving sands. Mr. T. Denton, writing in 1688, speaks of iron forges in this parish, to supply which, oak to the value of 4,000/. had been cut down in the park. The forges were probably near the brook which yet retains the name of Furnace-beck. Iron ore has been sometimes got at Hodbarrow and in Millom park. There is abundance of hmestone in the parish, which is quarried in several places. Copper ore has been obtained at different times, but not in sufficient quantities to repay the working : Joshua King, Esq. of Queen's College, Cambridge, a few years since made an unsuccessful attempt. A vein has been recently discovered in the manor of Ulpha, which promises to be very productive, (see Ulpha.) No coal is found in the parish. There are slate beds in Millom park and in the chapelry of Thwaites, but they do not break sufficiently large to be valuable. Blue slate is plentiful in the chapelry of Ulpha. The Duddon produces salmon and fine sand- eels, and the bay in which it joins the ocean has long been well-known for its mussels and cockles. Mr. Sandford, who wrote about 1675, speaks of the Duddon as " a brave river, where the famous cockles of all England is gathered in the sands, scraped out with hooks like sickles, and brave salmons and flookes, the bravest in England, hung up and dried like bacon, and as good feeding as Ireland salt wi. . ."* There was formerly a market here on Wed- nesday, and a fair for three days at the festival of • MS. Deaii and Chapter Library, Carlisle. PARISH OF MILLOM. 147 the Holy Trinity, which was granted to John Hudleston in 1250.* Nicolson and Burn, who wrote in 1777, say the market "hath been long discontinued." Black-Comb, the mountain between Millom and Bootle, is described in another part of tliis volume, in our account of the latter parisli, (page 127). On Birkcr moor, in the northern part of Millom, is a small lake called Devoke Water, well-known for its fine red trout ; it is frequented by a bird of the Larus kind, called Devoke Wa- ter Mew. In its bosom is a single rock which, owing to its neighbourhood to the sea, is — " The haunt of cormorants and sea-mew's clang." This lake is six miles east of Ravenglass, nearly half a mile in length, and has an outlet which runs into the Esk. Near it are the water-falls of Stan- ley Gill and Birker Force. The latter is one of the finest cascades in the county. " The height of the fall is comparatively inconsiderable ; but the characteristic features of the scene it presents, differ so remarkably from those of any other in this neighbourhood, that the tourist will be highly gratified with the spectacle. The rocks in whicli it is situated, assume a pointed and glacier-like appearance ; and tlic fir and larch trees which cluster round their bases, unite with them in i)roducing a truly alpine effect. Indeed, such another scene is not to be met with in the lake district, wherein the most admired features of the continental picturesque are blended with the rich and varied forms that compose an En- glish landscape." • Cart. Rot. 35 Hon. III. 148 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. In the township of Millom Above, are several springs below Marsh-side, impregnated with salt, and of a purging nature ; there is also a similar one at HodbaiTow ; and all are called by the neighbours. Holy Wells. Burrow Crails, or Barwick Rails, on Duddon Sands, in the township of Millom Below, eight miles S.S.E. of Bootle, is a natural harbour or creek where slate, corn, &c. are shipped, and coals imported, in vessels of about 100 tons bur- then. Near Burrow Crails is Holborn Hill, said to have been so called from the following circum- stance : — " The tradition is, that a lady of Millom returning from her first visit to court, was so struck with its resemblance to the well knoAvn locality of that name, that she gave it to it, and it has borne the name ever since. The curious traveller, who has faith in tradition, may form fi-om this spot some idea what the present centre of the British metropolis was two centuries ago."* " It is supposed there was anciently a church at Kirksanton, in the township of Chapel Sucken, which it is presumed, was formerly an independent rectory, though the vicar of Millom now receives from it tithes of corn, and a modus in heu of hay."f Kirksanton, with its appurtenances, was gi'anted by the Boyvill family to the abbey of St. Mary, in Furness. At Lowscales, in this parish, several relics of antiquity have been found at various times : in 1824, an ancient British battle-axe was dug up here, 13| inches in length. • Liverpool Journal. t Parson and White. parish of millom. 149 The Seigniory of Millom. This great lordship is the largest within the baronv of Egrcmont ; it contains the parishes of Millom, Bootlc, ^Miicham, Whitbeck, Corney, and A\'aberthwaite. It is of a triangular form, about 18 miles in length, and its greatest breadth is about 8 miles. It is bounded on the east by the Duddon ; on the south, by the isle ot Wal- nev, and the Pile of Fouldra ; on the west by the Irish Sea ; and on the north, by the Lsk, and the mountains Ilardknot and A\'rynose. It contains several manors which are holden imme- diately of Millom, as Millom is ot Egi-emont, with some difference of service. This seigniory anciently enjoyed great priyi- lecres: it was a special jurisdiction mto vyhich the sheriffof the county could not enter ; its lords had the power of life or death, and enjoy edj«/-« regalia in the six parishes forming their seigniory. Mr Denton,wiitinginlGSS,saysthatthegallowsstood on a hill near the castle, on which criminals had been executed within the memory ot persons then hvinf- To commemorate the power anciently possessed by the lords of this seigniory, a stone has been recently erected, with this niscription— "Here the Lords of M'lllom exercised Jura Regalia. Mr John Denton gives the following account of this seigniory : " This great nianor, in the time of Kintr Henry I. was given by ^\ ilham Alcsclnnes, Lord of Kgremont, to ***** de Boyvill, father toGodardde lioyvill, (named in ancient evidences GodardusDapifer) who,l)eing lord ol Milium, did cxive unto the abbot and monks of F urness a car- ?ucate of land there, with the appurtenances, called 150 ALLERDALF. WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. yet to this day Monk Force, which Arthur, the son of Godard, confirmed unto the abbey, and after him, in hke sort, his son and heir, Henry, the son of Arthur, reserving only the harts and hinds, wild boars and their kinds, and all airies of hawks. " But whatsoever the Lord of Egremont, Wil- liam INIeschines, reserved upon the first grant of the Boyvills, whether demesne or forest liberties. Dame Cicely Romely, (one of the coheirs of Wil- liam Fitz Duncan) Countess of Albemarle, to whose posterity this Milium was allotted by par- tition, gave and fully confirmed the same to the said Arthur Fitz Godard, and to Henry his son, and their heirs, by her charter yet extant, under seal, bounding the same thus — " Dedi et concessi HeiiricoJiUo Arthuri et Hceredibus suisjus Hceredi- iarium, viz. totain terrain et totumfeodiim inter Esk et Doddon cum ptinentiis" ^'c. And Dame Hawise, her sole daughter and heir, then the wife of Wil- liam de Mandevill, advised her husband to confirm it. "And for a recognition of the grant made to the Boyvills, Arthur, and Henry his son, by Dame Cicely, the Countess, they paid to King Henry H. for a post fine, one hundred pounds, and five couples of hounds, the recoi'ds terming them, decent fiigatores. " And an old tradition* makes these Boyvills to have been very near of kin to the Lords of Egremont, and gives us an account of the occasion upon which Milium was transferred to the said Boyvills, which is said to be thus ; the • This tradition is also given in Sandfutd's MS. PARISH OF MILLOM. 151 Baron of Egremont being taken prisoner beyond the seas by the infidels, could not be redeemed without a great ransom, and being far from Eng- land, entered his brother or kinsman for his surety, promising, with all possible speed, to send him money to set him free ; but upon his return home to Egremont, he changed his mind, and most unnaturally and unthankfully sufi'ered liis brother to lie in ])rison, in great distress and extremity, until his hair was grown to an unusual length, like to a woman's hair. The Pagans being out of hopes of the ransom, in great rage most cruelly hanged up their pledge, binding the long hair of his liead to a beam in the prison, and tied his hands so behind him, that he could not reach to the top where the knot was fastened to loose himself During his imprisonment, the Paynim's dauglitcr became enamoured of him, and sought all good means for his deliverance, but could not enlarge liim : she understanding of this last cruelty, by means made to his keeper, entered the prison, and taking her knife to cut the liair, being hastened, she cut the skin of his head, so as, with the weight of his body, he rent away the rest, and fell down to the earth half dead ; but she presently took liim up, causing surgeons to attend him secretly, till he reco\ered liis Ibrmer health, beauty, and strength, and so entreated her father for him, that he set liim at liberty. " Then, desirous to revenge his brother's ingra- titude, he got leave to depart to his country, and took home witli him the hattorell of liis hair, rent oil" as aforesaid, and a bugle-horn, which he com- monly used to carry about him, when he was in England, wiiere he shortly arrived, and coming V 2 152 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. towards Egremont Castle about noontide of the day, where his brother was at dinner, he blew his bugle-horn, which (says the tradition) his brother the baron presently acknowledged, and thereby conjectured his brother's return ; and then sending his friends and servants to learn his brother's mind to him, and how he had escaped, they brought back report of all the miserable torment which he had endured for his unfaithful brother the baron, which so astonished the baron (half dead before with the shameful remembrance of his own disloyalty and breach of promise) that he abandoned all company, and would not look on his brother, till his just wrath was pacified by diligent entreaty of the friends. And to be sure of his brother's future kindness, he gave the lord- ship of Milium to him and his heirs for evei'. Whereupon the first Lords of Milium gave for their arms the horn and the hatterell. " But whatever the occasion of the grant was, the Boyvills were from the place called De Mil- ium, and have anciently held the same with great liberties, and had Jura Regalia there. John Hudleston did prescribe thereto in the 20th year of King Edward I. and was allowed before Hugh de Cressingham in iYie'^Xea^oi quo warranto, holden for the king." The Boyvills or Boisvilles took their surname from the place, and were styled de Millom ; they held the same in their issue male, from the reign of Henry I. to the reign of Henry HI. — a space of one hundred years, when their name and family ended in a daughter. BoYVILL, OR DE MiLLOM, LoRDS OF MiLLOM. Arms : — Argent, a bend between two mullets sable. PARISH OF MILI.OM. 153 Godard de Boyvill to whom AVilliani de Mcschincs granted the lordship of Millom.* He gave the manor of Kirksanton to his second son William, in whose posterity it remained until the reign of Edward II. Godard de Boyvill, second lord of Millom, f gave IMonk- force to the abbey of St. Mary, in Furness, as aforesaid, with the churches of Bootle and Whicham; and "all the parishes between Esk and Millnm, to the abbey of St. Mary's, York;" to which abbey Matilda, his wife, gave also Anderset or Ag- nes Seat. He is called in ancient evidences, Godardus Dapifer. Arthur Boyvill or de Millom, son of Godard, confirmed his father's grants to the abbeys of Furness and York. To the former abbey he granted the services of Kirksanton in Millom, which Robert de Boyvill, his cousin-german, then held of him; and soon after he mortgaged the same to the abbot of Furness, until his return from the Holy Land. Henry de Millom, son of the above, confirmed the grants of his ancestors, and onfoofl'ed Ranulph Corbcttand his heirs of the manor of Brattaby, in Millom, with the appurtenances. " He also gave Baisthwaitc, in Dunncrsdalc, to one Orrae, the son of Dolphin; and Leakley to Henry Fitz VV'illiam in frank marriage with his daughter, Goynhild Boyvill, with shields for her cattle, and common of pasture in 'Uroch-beege and the forest,' which (joynhild afterwards (being a widow) gave to the Abbey of Holm Cultram, and William do Milium (the son of Henry do Milium, the son of Arthur do Milium) brother of tiic said Goynhild, did after conlirm the same. And afterwards John Iluddleston, and Joan his wife, sole daughter of Adam de Milium, son and heir ot the said Henry, confirmed Leakley, and the liberties aforesaid (so granted by Goynhild) unto the Abbot and Convent of Holm Cultram and his successors. " The said Henry Fitz Arthur gave other lands in Leakley, now called Seaton, unto the nuns of Leakley, or Seaton, which of late were granted unto Sir Hugh Askew, Knight. " The deed of feofment, made by the said Henry Fitz Arthur to Goynhild his daughter, approves the same, for • See pages 2, 3. t In the 2Glli Henry II. the name of Walter dc Milium occurs as the abbot of St. Mary's, in Furness. 154 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. therein is excepted as follows — ' Excepta terra in Leakley quam dedi Sanctis monialihus scrvientibus Deo et Sanctce MariiB in LeeMeya.' " William de Millom, son of the above. Adam de Millom, brother and heir of William. Joan de Millom, daughter and heiress of the above, married Sir JohnHudleston, Knight, and thus transferred the seigniory into that family, with whom it continued for a period of about 500 years. Mr. John Denton says, " all the residue of the fees of Milium were thus gi-anted by the Boyvills, Lords of Milium, to their kinsmen or friends, or with their daughters or sisters in marriage ; and accordingly by the Hudlestons and their heirs, some as manors, and some as lesser freeholds, as namely, Ulf hay, Thwaites, Dale-garth, and Way- bergthwaite, and some in mortmain, as Leakley and Kirksanton, all which places gave sirname to the posterity of the feoffees, as Thwaite, of Thwaites, Wayberghthwaite, of Wayberghthwaite and the rest whereof, some do yet remain, and some names ai'e worn out ; but ancient records report and remember them." In Mr. Sandford's MS. we have the following account : — " Eastward from Seaton you goe into Millome lordship, 20 miles to the head of the foresaid Dudden great river : all the lands and freeholds of the Lord of Millome castle, great- gi-eat-grandchild of the said Sir John Hudleston, of grand estate ; but he gave much away with daughters ; and married Dalavaise of Sowtham besides Teuxberry, £500 per annum, in Glouces- tershire. And yet it is a lord-like living, £3000 per annum, and X'500 per annum, at Hasley, some 10 miles beyond Oxford. And Ffardinando PARISH OF MILLOM. 155 now lord thereof, and all the estate of Millome castle at it, and sonne of S' William Huddleston, and a daughter of Montcastre, and colonel of a regiment of horse and foote ; and seven brothers, captains under him, in the royal armies. And his grandfather, a great swash buckler in Queen Elizabeth's time, and great gamester ; lived at a rate beyond his income. A great countes, his friend, asking him how he lived so gallantly : quoth he, 'of my meat, and my drink!' quoth she, ' I even looked for such an answer.' " The lordship of Millom still retains its own coroner ; that office is now (1S41) held by Chris- topher Hobson, Esq., of Cross House, Bootle. HuDLESTOx, Lords of Millom.* Arms : — Gules, a fret argent. Crest: — Two arms, dexter and sinister, embowed, vested, argent, holding in their hands a scalp proper, the inside gules. Motto : — Soli Deo honor et gloria. The pedigree of this very ancient familyf is traced back to five generations before the Conquest. The first, however, of the name who was lord of Millom, was Sir John Hudleston, knight, who was the son of Adam, • This pedigree differs in several particulars from that given by Nicolson and Burn. The corrections and additions in the former part were very kindly supplied to me by the Rev. Jolm Lingard, D.D.; the others are from Burke's Commoners, &c. t The Hudlestoiis of Ilutton-John were descended from a younger branch of the family at Millom ; as were the Hudlestons of Sawston, co. Cambridge, who settled there (te.np. Henry VIH.) inconsequence of a marriage with one of the coheiresses of the Marquis Montague. A pedigree of the Button-John branch may be found in vol. i. Leath Ward. 156 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. son of John, son of Richard, son of Reginald, son of Nigel, son of Richard, son of another Richard, son of John, son of Adam, son of Adam de Hodleston, in co. York. The five last named (according to the York MS.) were before the Conquest. Sir John de Hoddleston, knight, in the year 1270, was witness to a deed in the abbey of St. Mary, in Furness. By his marriage with the Lady Joan, Sir John be- came lord of Anneys in Millom. In the 20th of Edward I. (1292) he proved before Hugh Cressingham, justice itinerant, that he possessed jVr« regalia within the lordship of Millom. In the 25th (1297) he was appointed by the king warden or governor of Galloway in Scotland. In the 27th (1299) he was summoned as a baron of the realm to do military service. In the ne.xt year (1300) he was present at the siege of Carlaverock. He is thus mentioned in the roll: Johan de Odelston ensement Ke bicn et adessement Va d'armes tontes les saisons Au Counte estoit. Si est raisons Ke nomes soit entre sa gent, Rouge portoit frctte d'argent. John of Hodelston also Who well and promptly Goes in arms at all times, [is right Was with the Earl.* Therefore it That he be named with his follow- Heboregulesfretty of silver, [crs. In the 29th (1301), though we have no proof that he was summoned, he attended the parliament at Lincoln, and sub- scribed as a baron the celebrated letter to the pope, by the title of lord of Anneys. He was still alive in the 4th of Edward IV. (1311). Sir John had three sons, John who died early, and Richard and Adam. Richard Hudleston, son and heir, succeeded his father. Both he and his brother Adam are noticed in the later writs of Edward I. They were both of the faction of the Earl of Lancaster, and obtained, in the 7th of Edward II. (1313) a pardon for their participation with him in the death of the king's favourite Gavasten. Adam was taken prisoner with the Earl in the battle of Boroughbridge, in 1322, when he bore for arms — gules fretted with silver, with a label of azure. Richard was not at that battle, and in the 19th of the king(132G) when Edward II. summoned the knights of • The Eail of Lincoln, afterwards of Lancaster. PARISH OF MILI.OM. 157 every county to theparliaraentat Westminster, was returned the first among the knights of Cumberland. — He married Alice, daughter of Richard Troughton, in the 13th Ed. II. and had issue, John Hudleston, son of the above-named Richard, succeed- ed his father in 1337, and married a daughter of Henry Fenwick, lord of Fenwick, co. Northumberland. Richard Hudleston, son of John. Sir Richard Hudleston, Knight, served as a banneret at the battle of .Vgincnurt, in 1415. He married Anne, sister of Sir \\'illiam Harrington, K.G. and served in the wars in France, iu the retinue of that knight. Sir John Hudleston, Knight, son of Sir Richard, was ap- pointed to treat with the Scottish commissioners on border matters, in the 4lh of Edward IV. (1 164.); was knight of the shire in the 7th (14G7); appointed one of the conservators of the peace on the borders in the 20th (1480); and again in the 2nd of Richard (1484); and died on the Cth of Mov. in the 9th of Henry VII. (1494.) He married Joan, one of the coheirs of Sir Miles Stapleton of Ingham in Yorkshire. He was made baililf and keeper of the king's woods and chaces in IJarnoldwick in the county of York, sheriff of the county of Cumberland by the duke of Gloucester for his life, steward of Penrith, and warden of the west marches. He had three sons, l.Sir Ricliard, K.U. ob. v. p. 1st Richard III. He married Margaret, natural daughter of Richard Nevill, Earl of Warwick, and had one son and two daughters, viz. Richard, married Elizabeth, daughter of Lady Mabel Dacre, and died without issue, when the estates being entailed passed to the heir male, the des- cendant of his uncle John. Johan, married to Hugh Fleming, of Rydal, Esq. Margaret, married to Lancelot Salkeld, of Whitehall, Esq. 2. Sir John. 3. Sir William. Sir John Hudleston, second son of Sir John and Joan his wife, married Joan, daughter of Lord Fitz-IIugh, and dying in the 5th Henry VIII., was succeeded by his son, X 15S ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Sir John Hudleston, K.B., espoused, firstly, the lady Jane Clifford, youngest daughter of Henry, Earl of Cumberland, by whom he had no issue. He married secondly, Joan, sister of Sir John Seymour, knight, and aunt of Jane Sey- mour, queen-consort of Henry VIII., and by her he had issue, Aniliony, his heir. Andrew, who married Mary, sister and co-heiress of Thomas Hutton, of Ilutton-John, Esq. from whom descended the branch at that mansion.* A daughter, who married Sir Hugh Askew, knight, yeoman of the cellar to Henry VIII. ,f and Ann, married to Ralph Latus, of the Beck, Esq. Sir John died 38th Henry VIII. Anthony Hudleston, Esq., son and heir, married Mary, daughter of Sir William Barrington, knight, and was suc- ceeded by his son, William Hudleston, Esq., knight of the shire in the 43rd of Elizabeth, married Mary, daughter of .... Bridges, of .... CO. Gloucester. Ferdinando Hudleston, Esq.,j son and heir, was also • See pedigree of the Hudlestons of Hulton. John, in vol. i. p. 372 &c., Leath Ward. t See an account of Sir Hugh Askew, under the parish of Bootle. X In West's Antiquities of Fumess we have the following account of a skirmish which took place near Lindale-cot, Ulverston, in which one of this family was engaged ; — "On Sunday the first of October, 164.3, a slight skirmish took place between a number of troops for the king under the command of Colonel Hudleston, of Milium Castle, and others for the Parliament, commanded by Colonel Rigby. Colonel Hudleston's company giving way at the commencement of the battle, Rigby's pur- sued them, killed three or four men, (perhaps unintentionally) and took Colonel Hudleston, and 300 of his men prisoners." The same work contains some extracts from a MS. written by Thomas Park, of Millwood, high constable of Fumess during the Great Rebellion. Mr. Park says : " September 28, 1643. Colonel Kigby continuing his siege at Thurland castle (which continued six weeks before agreement was made) was let know that Mr. Kirkby,* Mr. Rigby, and colonel • Richard Kirkby, of Kirkby Ireleth. PARISH OF MILLOM. 159 kniMit of the shire, in the 21st James I. (see p. 155.) He mamed Jane, daughter of Sir llalph Grey of Chdl.nghara, knight, and had is^uo nine sons, UWun^, Jol'"' ^'-'^'-jfl^'^": Richard, Ralph, Ingleby, Edward, Robert and Joseph ;aU of whom were oflicers in the service of Charles I. John was colonel of dragoons. Ferdmando, a major of foot Richard, lieutenant-colonel of foot, was slain in the minster yard at York. Ralph, a captain of foot Ingleby, a captain of foot. Edward, a major of foot. Robert, acaptam of foot. And Joseph, a captain of horse. Hudleston,* were iu commotion in Furness, and that they had gotten together 1500 horse and foot, many of (hem out of Cumberland, young Mr. Penningtont being there with a company, and the rest of Furness : they were about 200 firemen, and the rest dubmen ; J and they kept their rendezvous at Dalton. " Whereupon Colonel Bigby, at the earnest desire of divers of Furness . ,»hofled thither, marched with seven or eight companies of foot, and three troops of horse, all firemen, except about 20, who had pikes; they were all complete, and very stout fellows. I being prisoner at Hornby castle at that time, and three weeks before, was appointed to go with the colonel; and the last of September they came to Ulverston, and rested there that night ; and early the 1 st ot October, 16«, being S,mday, they set forward and had prayers on Swartmoor; which being ended, they marched forward till they came to Lyndal; and there the foot halted ; but the horse went on to Lyndal cotte, and drew up in a valley facmg, and shouting at Mr. Hudleston's horse, who were drawn up on the top of Lindal Close, who did shout also in return; which lasted about an hour while the foot were receiving powder, shot, and match; which being ended, the foot marched up to the horse: then the king's horse fled- whereupon they raised a great shout, and did pursue them very hotly and took Colonel Hudleston prisoner, Mr. Stanley and Mr.Latus, Mr Earton with 300 common soldiers, or thereabouts : they took most part of their arms, six colours, two drums, and all the money and ap- parel the common soldiers had on, with a coup laden with maguzeen, drawn by six oxen. The common soldiers plundered Dalton and the parish, and returned that night to Cartmel. There were lliree or four of the king's men killed, and some hurt, but none of " • Sir William Hudleston, of MiUom castle. .|- William Pennington, Esq. t Sec Clarendon's Hist, of Ueb. v. 4, p. 665. X 2 160 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. He was succeeded by his oldest son, Sir William Hudleston, a zealous and devoted royalist, who raised a regiment of horse for the service of his sovereign, as also a regiment of foot; the latter he maintained at his own expence during the whole of the war. For this good service and his great personal braver)' at the battle of Edge- hill, where he retook the royal standard, he was made a Knight-banneret by Charles I. on the field. He married Bridget, daughter of Joseph Pennington, of Muncaster, Esq. He had issue (besides his successor,) a daughter Isabel, who married Richard Kirkby of Kirkby, in Furness, Esq., and was succeeded by his son, Ferdinand Hudleston, Esq. who married Dorothy, daughter of Peter Hunley, of London, merchant, and left a sole daughter and heiress, Mary, who married Charles West, Lord Delawar, and died without issue. At his decease the representation of the family reverted to Eichard Hudleston, Esq. son of Colonel John Hudleston (second son of Ferdinando Iludlestonand Jane Grey his wife). This gentleman married Isabel, daughter of Thomas Hudles- ton, of Bainton, co. York, and was succeeded by his son, Ferdinando Hudleston, Esq., who married Elizabeth, daughter of Lyon F'alconer, Esq. of Rutlandshire, by whom he had issue, William Hudleston, Esq. This gentleman married Ger- trude, daughter of Sir William Meredith, Bart., by whom he had issue two daughters Elizabeth and Isabella. Elizabeth, the elder, married Sir Hedworth Williamson, Bart., who in 1774, sold the estate for little more than 20,000/. to Sir James Lowther, Bart., by whom it was devised to his successor, the Earl of Lonsdale. The Castle. Millom Castle, of which there are considerable remains, is pleasantly situated in the townsliip of Millom IJelow, near the mouth of the Duddon, on a slight eminence fronting the south, and PARISH OF MILLOM. 161 sheltered from the nortli winds by Black Comb and a range ol' hills. This castle was fortified and embattled, in 1335, by Sir John Hudlcston, in pursuance of the king's licence. It was anciently surrounded by a park, adorned with noble oaks, and well-stocked with deer ; and was for many centuries the seat of the lords of tlie great seigniory of Millom. The lords of Millom appear to have been happily placed at a suiticient distance from the troubled scenes of the border warfare, and to have enjoyed the blessings of peace, — ui'iiimcuiu (Hirni- tate, — when their countrymen in the northern and centre parts of the county were involved in skirmishes and forays. It would appear, however, from an incidental notice in Darnell's " Life and Correspondence of Isaac Basire, D.D.," that this quiet was disturbed during the Great Rebellion, although no particulars respecting the occurrence have been recorded. In that work it is stated (p. 34), that the Rev. Nathanael Ward, " \icar of Staindrop, remained on his living till Hill. He then entered into King Charles's army, and :iw.s- slain at Milium Caxllc, in Cumberland. . . . His nuncupative will, made as it should seem, after he had received his mortal wound, is in the Registrar's Office at Durham. It consists of a very few lines, and is attested by five cavaliers, Robert Cirey, John Ihidleston, John Tempest, Thomas Ilulton, Jo. Heath." The opinion that this castle was attacked during the Great Rebellion, is corroborated by the fact that the old vicarage-house, which was near the castle, was ]mlled down at that period, " lest the rebels should take refuge therein." 162 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Mr. Thomas Denton, writing in 16S8, says the castle was then much out of repair ; that the gallows where the lords of Milloni exercised their power of punishing criminals with death, stood on a hill near the castle ; and that felons had suffered there so recently as to be within the memory of persons then living. He describes the park as having within twenty years abounded with oak, which, to the value of 4000/. had been cut down and used for the iron forges, see p. 146. "Milium castle," says ]\Ir. John Denton, "the ancient seat and capital mansion of this mannor, is plac'd at the foote of the river Dudden, and through length of time threatneth mine. How- beit the lords thereof make it yet tlieir dwelling place and aboade, holding themselves content, that the old manner of strong building there, (with the goodly demeisncs and commodityes which both land and sea afford them, and the stately parke full of huge oakes and timber, woods and fallow deerc,) doe better witness their ancient and p'sent greatness and worth, than the painted vanityes of our time do grace our new upstartes." Buck's view of the castle — ])ublished in 1739, and dedicated to the last lord of Millom, of the Hudleston family — represents the building as much in the same state as it appears at present. Its shattered walls were decorated with shrubs that had found crevices in which to take root ; but in front was a row of palisades, with a long parallel line of yew-trees, formally trinnned and cut in the style which once prevailed, shewing how much inferior in appearance were such artificial trees to the graceful and flowing outline of those PARISH OF MILLOM. 163 left to the care of nature. Those trees are still remaining, but they have attained to a much larger size. So lately as 1774, when Nicolson and Burn wrote, the park was "well stored with deer." It was disparked by the present Earl of Lonsdale about the year 1802, when 207 deer were killed ; and the venison was sold, in Ulverston market and elsewhere, at fVoni 'Id. to Ad. per pound. Tiiis castle — no longer the residence of the lords of Millom — is now occupied as a farm- house : — Sic transit gloria intnidi. Tlie principal part now remaining is a large square tower, for- merly embattled, but at present a plain parapet wall surrounds the leads on the top, commanding a delightful view of the mouth of the Duddon. In a wall of the garden are the arms of Hudleston, as also in the wall of an outhouse, painted in proper colours, with the motto — Soli Deo honor et gloria. The latter is well executed : it was found in a heap of rubbish, and was placed in its present situation by thecareof Mr. Isaac Hodgson, a respectable farmer, who lives in the castle. The moat is visible on the south and west sides. The principal entrance appeal's to have been in the east front, by a lofty flight of steps : the walls in this part arc festooned with ivy, and their rent sides are partially concealed by trees, closely tenanted by rooks. Two other rookeries are seen at a short distance. Some old oak chairs — formerly part of the appropriate furniture of the castle while the residence of the lords of Millom — are now in the possession of Bernard (iilpin, Esq., of Ulverston, a lineal descendant from " the apostle of the north," whose name he bears. 164 allerdale ward, above derwent. The Church. The church of ISIillom was rectorial until the year 1228, when it was given to the abbey of St. Mary in Furness. One moiety was appropriated by Walter de Grey, Archbishop of York, to that monastery, the abbot and convent to have the right of presentation ; the other moiety (which the Archbishop reserved for his own disposal,) he assigned, in 1230, for the maintenance of three chaplains, with clerks and other charges, for the support of his chantry ordained at the altar of St. Nicholas, in the cathedral church of York. In the Valor Ecclesiasiicus of Henry YIII. this vicarage is entered as follows : — Millome Vicar' Eccfie. Rector appropriat' monaster' de Furnesse. Edmund' Staneforth incumbens. Vicar' p'dca. valet in £ *. d. Mansione cum orto & po- ? .-^ > VJ VII) maria p. am. S Decim' garbas. &. feni nijli \ \ £ s. d. vjs. viijrf. Ian' et agnell'/ £ s. d. J>viij xv — xiijs. iiijJ. porcell' et V viij viij iiij r gall' vs. finibz. quadra- V gesimalibz. Lxiij$. iiijd. j -J Rcpris' viz in £ s. d. Sinod' iijs. procurac' vjs. viijrf. — ix viij £ *. d. Et valet clare viij v iiij Xma ps. inde — xvj vj ob' In a survey (now remaining in the First-Fniits Office) of the abbey of Furness, taken in pursu- ance of an act of parliament, 26th Henry VIII. there is this entry : — PARISH OF MILLOM. 165 Tithes of the Rectory of Myllom. Tithes of Grain, 12/. of Lambs, 4/. 13s. id. In Wool, 41. In lent fines, 8/. In all, 28/. 13s. y.* In "a survey of the lordship or manor of Furness," taken by a special commission, in the year 1619, this entry occurs :— " The rectory ot Milium (from the farmer whereof there is due the yearly rent of 36/. 13s. id.) is in Cumberland, and (as we are informed) in lease to Mr. Aylott, sometime secretary to the Lord Nuburgh, chan- cellor of the I)utchy."t , ,,. , -n 1 . The livinc; was valued m the Kmgs Books at 8/. 5.S-. 8(/. and was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty of the annual value of 26/. Is. Sd. . ., 1 , The following particulars respectmg tlie glebe, &c belonging to the vicarage of Millom, are ex- tracted from the terrier :— " There is no house or outhouse or any other edifice belongmg to the vicarage; for in the time of Ohver Cromwell s rebelhon, the vicarage-house was pulled down, as it stood near unto the castle, by the tlien Lord of Millom. or order, as it is reported lest the rebels should take refuge therein. The whole of the glebe consists only of the church-yard, and a field adjoininii, commonly known by the name ot Vi- carage Field, containing together 3^ acres or thereabouts. This field (on which the vicarage- house formerly stood) is one half arable, the other meadow, chiefly earthen fenced, &c. " According to the best information and records that can be met with at present, somewhere about • West's Fumcss. t Ibid. 166 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. the year 1721, the sum of 256/. was given to the vicarage, by the Rev. John Postlethwaite, master of St. Paul's School, London, and about the same time the governors of Queen Ann's bounty were pleased to add thereunto the sum of 200/. ; where- with an estate was purchased called Fawcett Bank, near Sedbergh, in Yorkshire, the yearly rent of which is paid to the vicar." This farm at Fawcett Bank is at present (1841) let for 40 guineas per annum. The patronage of this church is vested in the duchy of Lancaster. The impropriated tithes which belonged to the Earl of Lonsdale, have (with very few exceptions) been redeemed by the different landed proprietors, since the passing of the act for the commutation of tithes. The present vicarage-house and the glebe at- tached to it were purchased about the year 1 7S 1 , for the sum of 240/. : 200/. of this money was obtained from Queen Ann's bounty, and the remainder was paid by the incumbent, the Rev. John Smith. List of Vicars. Edmund Staneforth, occurs, 1.535. 1661 Roger Askew. 1670 WiUiam Wells, ob. 1698. 1699 Joseph Taylor. 1713 Thomas Benn. 1743 Matthew Postlethwaite. 1778 Edward Nicholson. 1781 John Smith, ob. 1796. 1797 John Bohon, ob. 1820. 1821 John Smith, ob. 1822. 1822 Henry Dixon, B.D., ob. 1836. 1836 Henry Pickthall, B.A. PARISH OF MILLOM. 167 The church of Millom, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, is situated in the township of ISIillom Below, closely adjoining the castle. Indeed, so close is their proximity, that from some points of view they appear as one building ; very nearly resembling, in this respect, not in grandeur, the castle and church of Lancaster. The church consists of a nave and chancel, a south aisle, and a modern porch on the same side. Two bells are hung in a turret at the western end. In the church-yard arc the remains of a cross, the shaft of which bears four shields ; tliose on tlie east and west sides are charged with the arms of Hudleston, on the north and south with .... impaling Hudleston. This church is a venerable edifice ; but it is to be lamented that some of its wardens have been so deeply imbued with the love of iinprorements, that they have left few of the old windows — their places being supplied by very unecclesi- astical substitutes. The roof of the nave was open to the timber work, but it is now concealed by a modern ceil- ing. The north door has been walled up ; it is circular-he. ided, and has a niche over the arch. The pulpit and reading-desk are placed against the norlli wall; both are of oak, but painted of a mahogany colour ! The base appears to be of stone, and it was the opinion of that accomplished antiquary, Dr. A\'hitaker, that it is a portion of an ancient stone pulpit. A gallery at the west end contains an organ. Below this is an octagonal stone font, ornamented with quatrefoils and a shield charged with the arms of Hudleston and a label. Y 2 168 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The south aisle, or at least a portion of it, appears to have been a chapel belonging to the Hudlestons, lords of Millom. It opens from the nave by four pointed arches, springing from massy circular and octangular piers. The roof of this part of the church, until of late years, was open to the timber work, under which a ceiling is now placed. At the western end is an oval shaped Avindow, now walled up. A large decorated window of five lights nearly fills the east end ; this has been most barbarously walled up from the bottom to the spring of the arch, and two sash windows inserted. Near this window is a piscina, which sanctions the opinion that the whole or part of the south aisle has been a cha- pel. This aisle was the burial-place of the Hudle- stons, who for a period of about five centuries were lords of the seigniory. Here is an altar- tomb, ornamented with Gothic tracery and figures bearing shields of arms, on which recline the effigies of a knight and his lady, in alabaster, very much mutilated : the knight is in plate armour, his head resting on a helmet, and having a collar of S.S. ; the lady is dressed in a long gown and mantle, with a veil. They appear to have originally been painted and gilt, but the greater part has been rubbed off. Near the altar- tomb are the very mutilated remains of an effigy of a knight, carved in wood, " apparently of the fourteenth century." A few years ago there was " a lion at his feet." The chancel is not ceiled ; it has a pointed east window of three lights, a small circular one, a narrow window with a rounded head, and another PARISH OF MILLOM. 169 of two lights, with trefoiled heads, under a square dripstone. Near the above monument is a mural marble tablet bearing this inscription : — Heic juxta jacet dcposituni Mortalc JOSEPHI HUDDLKSTON Armigeri Filij Williclmi Huddlcston Equitis, Qui, Vna cum tota Familia causa Carol: pbimi, Begium Optimi, Vitam atq. Fortunas saipius exposuli. Matrem lialjuit D. Bridgettam Pennington JosEPin Pennington de Muncaster Armigeri Filiam Unicani. Uxorem duxit D. Bridgettam Hlddleston Andre.i; Huddleston de Huuon-John Armiger Filiam, Ex hac Unicum melioris spei Filium suscepit, Qucm, proh Dolor ! Circiter decimum ^Etatis Animum amisit 1682. Dominia cujus et lura Sine Sobole Moriens Uxori Charissimoc donee ilia in vivis foret. Conjugum Amantissimus donavit Obijt Decimo Die Septembris Ano >E talis sexagcsimo tertio, et Christianorum 1700. In charissimam cujus Memoriam Hoc Amoria ct Officii Monunicntum erexit Domina Pientissima. CsBtcra loquantur Lcgata sua Nobiliora, Et Munificcntia centum Librarum Ad Liberam Scholam Grammaticakm fundan. Et bonas Litcras promovendum Conspicua. En paucis ! 170 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Vir erat Nobili, et Antique Familii Verus Ecclesise Anglicanse Filius, Modestii et Integritate siiigulari, Alien! Abstinens, nee sui profusus. Abi, Lector curiose, et fac similiter, Et, Cum non minus sis Mortalis Omnem crede Diem Tibi diluxisse Supremum. Non procul hiuc jacent Reliquia; Bridgett.e Huddleston, JosEPHi HuDDLESTON Armlgeri supradicti Viduie, Quae superstes marito quatuordecim Anuis, * Sex raensibus septemq. diebus : Cum esurientes cibo saturissct, Nudos amicuissef, Afflictos Invisisset, Amicis Muniflcam, Inimicis benignam se pra!stitissit, Obijt Decimo septimo Die martij Ann. iEtat. 72. Ann. Dom. 1714. A marble tablet on the wall of the south aisle bears this inscription — Sacred to the Memory of The Rev. JOHN SMITH, Vicar of Millom, ■who departed this life, 30th of Nov. 1796, aged 46 years. BETTY, his -nife, died 5th June, 1823, aged 73 years. WILLIAM GILLIAT, their son, died at sea, aged 24 years. JANE, their daughter, died 17th April, 1818, aged 32 years. A stone slab fixed to one of the piers of the south aisle bears the arms of Hudleston with a crescent, and is thus inscribed — DominusBarr; HUDLE STON obijt Decimo tertio Die Sep. Anno Dom. MDCCXX, .^tat. 78. PARISH OF MILLOM. 171 Verus fuit Ecclesiee AngUcanee Filius Principi suo subditus fidissimus El pcrtotum Vitee Cursum adeo Pietate, Justilia, & Amore, Patrice Claruit Ut Omnibus merito lugendus decesscrit. At the east end of the south aisle is a marble tablet with this inscription — Sacred to the Memory of JOHN MYERS, Esquire, of Pow House in this parish, Barrister-at-law, whose remains were iuterred near this place on 9ih day of January, 1821. And of RACHEL PHILLIPS his wife, daughter of Cyprian Bridge, Esquire, of Dover Court, in the county of Essex, who also was interred here on 8th day of February, I8I6. A brass plate on the wall of the south aisle bears the following inscription — Here lycth the body of JOHN LATVS of Beck, Esq. Justice of Peace of the covntie of Cvmberland and Lancashire, iii the rcigne of their Majesties King William and Queen Ann, who niarricd Catherine Dav- ghter of William Obfelr of Plum- bland, Esq. by whom he had iss>'e Fcrdinando, Julia, Bridget, and Ag- nes ; and after married Agnes daughter of Andrew Hcddlest- ON of Hutton-John, Esq. who depa- rted this life, y« IGth October, 1702. On one of the piers of the south aisle is a brass plate with the following inscription, and the arms of Askew impahng INIusgrave :— 172 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Under Uiis lies the body of DOROTHY late wife of WILLIAM ASKEW of Standing Stones, gentleman, daughter and coheiress of William Musgeave of Crookdake in this county, Esq. She dyed ye 22 day of April, 1705, and in the 66 year of her age. She left one daughter who married John Archer of Osenholme, in Westmorland, Esq. On the east wall of the chancel is a stone tablet inscribed — Near this place lieth interred the Body of Mr. Wm. WELLS, late vicar of Millom. He died Jan. y^ 4"i- Anno Dom. ICyS. Etat's suffi 50. On the north side of the chancel is a mural tablet with this inscription — * Erected by his TV-idow to the memory of the Bev. JOHN BOLTON, Vicar of this parish, who died on the 5th of November, 1820, in the 62nd year of his age. And of their chUd, MARY BOLTON, who died on the 7th of September, 1822, at the age of 8 years. Latus of the Beck. Arms : — This family, of which the coheiresses married Hudleston and Blencowe, is supposed to have come from Gloucester- PARISH OF MILI.OM. 173 shire into the north, early in the reign of Henry VIII. They were for some period seated at Whicham-hall, which place was sold by William Blencowe, Esq. about the year 1740. In the year 1582, Richard and Henry Latus purchased the rectory of Kirkby-Ireleth, in Furness, Lancashire, of Sir ■\Villiam Layland, of the Morleys, in the said county. Richard Latus of the Beck, Esq. was succeeded by Ralph Latus, Esq. who married Ann, youngest daughter of Sir John Iludlcston, of jMillom castle, Knight, (see page 158,) by his second wife, Joan, sister of Sir John Seymour, Knight, and aunt of Jane Seymour, queen-consort of Henry VIII. In consideration of which marriage he obtained from his father-in-law, a freehold tenement called Oveibeck, and another called Ncihcrbeck, and Ilarrats, all in the lordship of Millom. By Ann his wife he had issue, Ralph Latus, Esq. son and heir. .Anthony Latus, Esq. married ^Margaret, daughter of 'Willi- am lludleston, Esq., probably grandson of the above Sir John Hudleston, and had issue, William Latus, Esq. son and heir,* married to Agnes, daughter of John Ambrose, Esq. of Lowick hall, co. Lancas- ter, and was succeeded by John Latus, Esq. son and heir, who wf.s t\\ ice married. Firstly, to Catherine, daughter of William Orfeur,of Plumb- land hall, Esq. ; and, secondly, to Agnes, daughter of Andrew Hudleston, of Ihitton-John, Esq. By his first wife he had issue, Ferdinando, his successor, Julia, Bridget, and Agnes, Mr. Latus was a justice of the peace for the counties of Cum- berland and Lancashire. He died, 16th October, 1702, and was buried in the church of Millom, where is a brass plate to his memory. The manor of Lowick was convoyed to him, in 1681, by his uncle John Ambrose, Esq. of Lowick-hall. Ferdinando Latus, Esq. son and heir, eounsellor-at-law, married Henrietta,! daughter of Sir John Tempest, of Tong, CO. York, Baronet, (so created by Charles II.) by his wife, • One of the family about this time appears to have been in arms for Charles I. see page 159, »io. Henry Blencovve, ob. s.p. John Blencowe, ob. s.p. 26th Nov. 1777. William Ferdinando Blencowe, M.D. who succeed- ed to the estate. Elizabeth Blencowe, married to Joseph Blain, M.D. of Carlisle. Thwaites. Thwaites is a manor, township, and parochial chapelry, within this parish. It extends along the Duddon, south of Ulplia, from Duddon Grove to Millom Green. It contains the hamlets of Hall-Thwaites (near which the chapel is situated), Duddon Bridge, and Lady Hall. The nuDior of Thwaites was held under the lords of Millom by a family of that name, as early as the reign of Edward I., and here was their ancient manor-house, until they removed to Unerigg-hall. Their arms, according to Sir Daniel Fleming, of Rydal, Bart. " who was very curious in those matters," were — Argent, a cross sable, fi'etty • See a pedigree of the family of Blencowe of Blencow, in vol. i. Leath Ward. PARISH OF MILLOM. 175 or ; but, according to Mr. T. Denton, they were — Vert, a cross argent, fretty gules. The Messrs. Lysons agi-ee with the former; but Nicolson and Burn blazon their arms — Or, a cross argent, fretty gules. In the 35th Henry III. Eleanor, wife of John Boy vil and Michael de Cornee, passed this manor by fine levied ; and in the IGth Edward I., John Hudlcston impleaded A\'illiam, son of John Thwaites, for 200 acres of pasture there. The manor was conveyed by the Hudlestons in the seventeenth century to Sir John Lowther, Bart, and is now the property of the Earl of Lonsdale. Duddon Grove, the mansion-house of Miss Millers, is delightfully situated on the banks of the river from which it takes its name, about two miles from Broughton, and six from the castle and church of Millom. It is seated among luxuriant trees, and is surrounded by rocky and picturesque scenery. A httle higher up the river is Haws-bridge, or Wha-house-bridge, spanning the river with two arches, which spring from pei*pendicular rocks. At Duddon Bridge, in this chapelry, is a large iron furnace. The Chapel of Thwaites, dedicated to St. Anne, is situated near Hall-Thwaites, about three miles from the parish church. It was rebuilt in 1S07. The former edifice, was erected about the year 1721, at the cxpencc of the inhabitants, by whom it was endowed with 200/. It has also received 800/. from Queen Ann's bounty, a private dona- tion of 100/. and a parliamentary grant of 1000/. : the latter was received in 1825. In the year 1715, this cha])el was certified to the governors of z 2 176 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Queen Ann's bounty as having no endowment. The patronage is vested in the proprietors of the estates of Beck-Bank, Broadgate, Oaks, and Graystone House, and the Earl of Lonsdale, who, as lord of the manor and lay-rector, has a casting vote. It was returned to the commis- sioners for enquiring respecting Ecclesiastical Revenues, as of the average value of 99^. with a glebe-house fit for residence. The register is very imperfect. The present incumbent is the Rev. John Ormandy, who was appointed in 1822. A library of 48 volumes was founded here, in 1757, by the associates of Dr. Bray : only two or three volumes are now left. A sum of money has been secured on two closes in the Bridge-End estate, purchased by the governors of Queen Ann's bounty, for the use of the incumbent : the interest of which is paid as follows: — one half (IGs.) to the school- master, and the other half {16s.) in bread to the poor of Thwaites ; which latter half appears by a tablet in the chapel to have been left by Ann Smithson of Bank-house, in the year 1778. List of Incumbents. 17.. Daniel Steele. c. 1755 Daniel Stephenson, ob. 1778. 1778 John Parke, ob. 1815. 1815 Henry Borrowdale, ob. 1822. 1822 John Ormandy. The druidical temple, at Swineside, is thus de- scribed by Mr. Gough, in his additions to Cam- PARISH OF MILLOM. 177 den* : — " It is nearly a circle of very large stones, pretty entire, only a few fallen upon sloping ground in a swampy meadow. No situation could be more agreeable to the druids than this; mountains almost encircle it, not a tree is to be seen in the neighbourhood, nor a house, except a shepherd's cot at the foot of a mountain, sur- rounded by a few barren pastures. " At the entrance, there are four large stones, two placed on each side, at the distance of six feet. The largest on the left side, is five feet six inches in height, and ten feet in circumference. Through this you enter into a circular area, 29 yards by 30. This entrance is nearly south-east. On the north or right hand side, is a huge stone, of a conical form, in height nearly nine feet. Opposite the entrance is another large stone, which has once been erect, but is now fallen mthin the area ; its length is eight feet. To the left hand or south-west is one, in height seven feet, in circumference eleven feet nine inches. The altar probably stood in the middle, as there are some stones still to be seen, sunk deep in the earth. The circle is nearly complete, except on the western, some stones are wanting. The largest stones are about 31 or 32 in number. The outward part of the circle, upon the sloping ground, is surrounded with a buttress, or rude pavement of smaller stones, raised about half a yard from the surface of the earth. " The situation and aspect of the druidical temple, near Keswick, is in every respect similar to this, except the rectangular recess, formed by • Vol. iii. p. 432. 178 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. ten large stones, which is pecuhar to that at Keswick ; but upon the whole, I think a prefer- ence will be given to this at Swineshead, as the stones in general appear much larger, and the circle more entire. " This monument of antiquity, when viewed within the circle, strikes you with astonishment, how the massy stones could be placed in such regular order, either by human strength or mechanical power." The Rev. Jeremiah Gilpin, A.M. of Broughton in Furness, was so much interested in these vene- rable remains of a remote and, comparatively speaking, unknown period, that he was at the expense of having a view of them engi'aved, which appeared in the Gentleman's Magazine, for the year 1785. John Wennington gave 30/. for the use of the poor of this chapelry ; and Bernard Benson gave 5/. for the like purpose : these sums are secui'ed upon two tenements in the neighbourhood. BiRKER AND AuSTHWAITE. The township of Birker and Austhwaite is bounded on the north and west, by the Esk, which divides it from the parish of ftluncaster ; and on the east, by the chapelry of Ulpha. It contains the small lake called Devoke \\'ater (see p. 147), and the water-falls of Stanley Gill and Birker Force. I'he inhabitants have the privi- lege of marr)^ng, burying, (S:c. at the neighbour- ing chapel of I'^skdale (part of the parish of St. Bees), by reason of their distance from the parish PARISH OF MILLOM. 179 church and the chapels in their own parish. " In the manor of Austhwaite some small veins of copper have been discovered, but no mines have been -wrought." Austhwaite was granted, in 1102, to the an- cestor of a family who assumed that name, by Arthur de Boyvill or de INIillom. That family became extinct in the reign of Edward HI., about the year 1315, when the heiress (Constance, daughter of Thomas Austhwaite) married Nicho- las Stanley, Esq., ancestor of the present lord, Edward Stanley, Esq. M.P., of Ponsonby-hall. The arms of Austhwaite were — Gules, two bars argent, in chief three mullets of six points pierced, or. Dalegarth-hall, the ancient manor-house of Austhwaite, was the residence of that family, and afterwards of the Stanleys, until the seventeenth century, when John Stanley, Esq, removed into the parish of Ponsonby, where they have since resided. Great part of the hall has been pulled dow^n ; it is now occupied as a farm-house. The curious car\ed oak bedstead, now at Ponsonby- hall, was removed from this iiouse. It was a very spacious building ; but some parts of it were pulled down about the middle of the last century. " The remains shew the mode of architecture used in those dis^ant ages, when that country abounded in timber trees, each beam is formed of the entire stem of an oak, and each step in the stair-case is a solid block of the same wood : this profusion it not to be wondered at, when we are informed that a scjuirrel could travel from Dalegarth to Hardknott mountain, by the tops of the trees, the forest was so closely wooded. 180 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The old dining room is twenty-four feet long, and twenty-one feet wide ; on the ceiling are the mitials, E.S.A.,* surrounded with figures of hounds, stags, &c. in the stucco, with the date, 1599. In almost every window of the house, were the arms of the different branches of the family, blazoned in painted glass." Chapel Suckex. Chapel Sucken, a long narroAV township in the south part of the parish, comprehends the ham- lets of Kirksanton and Haverigg. It has been sup- posed, (we know not on what authority, excepting the very doubtful one of its name) that there was formerly a church or chapel in the former hamlet, and from which it took its name, (see page 14S). At Kirksanton is a small tumulus, on the sum- mit of which are two stones standing perpendicu- larly, about eight feet in height, and placed fifteen feet asunder. Near these, it is stated in Hutchinson's Cumberland, that " several other large stones stood lately, placed in a rude manner." Ulpha. The chapelry of. Ulpha, Ulfhmj, or Oiiff'a, eleven miles in length and rather more than three in breadth, comprises about one-third of this ex- tensive parish. It lies to the north of the chapelry of Thwaites, extending along the Duddon, from • The initials of Edward Stanley, Esq. and of Ann his wife, daugh- ter of Thomas Biigp, Esq., of Caumiie, co. Westmorland. PARISH OF MILLOM. 181 Duddon-Grove to the north of the mountains Hardknott and '^^'l•ynose, near the three shire stones, where meet the comities of Cumberhmd, Westmorland, and Lancashire. " Ulf hay was granted to one Ulf, the son of Evard, whose posterity enjoyed it till the time of King Henry III. Ulf had issue Ailsward and Ketell : Ailsward paid to King Henry HI. in the 17th year of his reign, 20 marks for a fine as- sessed upon him for an attaint. Ketell had divers sons, Bennct, William, and Michael ; Ben- net lived in King John's time, and had a son named Allan. But now the land is reduced to demesne again, and ]\Ir. Hudlcston, the pre- sent lord of JNIillum, and divers of his ancestors, have made there a park, inclosed for deer, which yet to this day is called Ulf hay park."* Having reverted to the Hudlestons, lords of Millom, it was again made parcel of that manor. Sir Hc'dworth ^^"illiamson and his lady (heiress of the Hudlestons, see page 160) sold the Ulpha estate to Mr. Singleton of Drigg. The manor was subsecjuently the property of Lord Muncas- ter, having been sold by Miss Singleton to the first baron. It was afterwards purchased by .... Burrow, Esq. of Carleton Hall, and is now the property of George Harrison, Esq., of Line- thwaite, near ^^'hitchaven. A very valuable vein of copper has been lately discovered in this manor. Report for some time was abroad that the workmen engaged a few years ago then made the discovery, but from some selfish motives immediately abandoned the work- J. Dcnton'3 MS. 2 A 182 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. ing to try some other place, first taking care to cover up their treasure. In consequence of these reports, George Harrison, Esq. the present lord of the manor, lately set workmen to clear away the superincumbent earth, and after about four week's labour they succeeded in discovering, from all appearance, a rich and extensive vein of ore, the further pursuit of whicli, we are glad to hear, he has ordered the workmen to commence.* The southern part of this chapelry is good land and well wooded ; but the northern part is mountainous, and presents a variety of romantic scenery to those who ai-e not deterred visiting this secluded district by the badness of the roads. When Nicolson and Burn wrote, in 1774, the road from the chapel of Ulpha to the parish church was " in some places rugged and almost impassable ;" we may suppose it is now in a better state than it was at that period, although still very bad. There was formerly a deer-park in LHpha ; the deer are mentioned by INIr. Thomas Denton, as the largest and the fattest in the north of England. A very splendid view of Ulpha and the valleys of Seathwaite and Dunnerdale, in Furness, is obtained from the road over Stoneside from Muncaster to Duddon Grove. After climbing the rugged ascents over which the road leads, those delightful valleys burst on the sight. They are near the river Duddon ; embosomed amid barren mountains, they form pictures of surpass- ing beauty, on which the eye lOves to dwell. Dunnerdale, verdant and well-cultivated, looks • Whitehaven Herald. PARISH OF MILLOM. 183 like a rich garden — an oasis in the desert. Beyond, the momitains stretch away far into the north, — Coniston Old Man, Wrynose, Hardknott,Langdale Pikes, Scafell, and Scafell Pikes. The summits of the latter were clad with snow, although the sun scorched us with heat. Tlie river Duddon which forms the eastern boundary of this chapelry and of the parish, is well-known throughout the kingdom by the Son- nets of the venerable poet, Wordsworth, who says that it may be compared, such and so various are its beauties, to any river, of equal length of course, in any country. " Child of the clouds ! remote from every taint Of sordid industry thy lot is cast; Thine are the honors of the lofty waste ; Not seldom, when with heat the valleys faint, Thy hand-maid Frost with spangled tissue quaint Thy cradle decks ; — to chaunt thy hirth, thou hast No meaner I'oet than the whistling Blast, And Desolation is thy Patron-saint ! She guards thee, ruthless Tower ! who would not spare Those mighty forests, once the bison's screen, AVhere stalk'd the huge deer to his shaggy lair* Through paths and alleys roofed with sombre green, Thousand of years before the silent air Was pierced by whizzing shaft of hunter keen!"t Wallow-Barrow Crag is a rock nearly opposite the Old Man on Coniston Fell. The bed of the Duddon is here strewn with large fragments of rocks fallen from aloft. Mr. Wordsworth says, " the c/iao/ic aspect of the place is well marked by the expression of a stranger, who strolled • The deer alluded to is the Leigh, a gigantic species long since extinct. + Wordsworth. 2 A 2 184 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. while dinner was preparing, and, at his return, being asked by his host, which way he had been wandering, replied, ' as far as it isjiiiis/ied.' " On the summit of the first ascent of Hardknott, a mountain near the northern extremity of the parish, are the remains of a British or Roman fort, called Kardknott Castle.* Camden speaks * On the svunmit of Gogmagog hills, near Camhridge, " is a triple entrenchment with two ditches rudely circular. This is supposed by some writers to have been a British, and by others a Roman, camp; but it was probably occupied in succession by both parties." Similar re- mains are to be seen in Cornwall : those of Chun Castle " occupy the whole area of a hill, commanding an extensiTe tract of coimtry to the east, some low grotmds to the north and south, and the ocean to the west. It consists of two walls, or rather huge heaps of stones, one with- in the other, having a vallum, or kind of terrace, between them. This terrace is divided by four walls ; and towards the west-south-west is the only entrance to the castle, called the Iron Gateway. This turns to the left, and is flanked with a wall on each side, to secure the ingress and egress of the inhabitants. The outer wall measures about five feet in thickness ; but on the left of the entrance it is twelve feet ; whilst the inner wall may be estimated at about ten feet ; but, from the ruinous confusion of the stones, it is impossible to ascertain this decidedly. The area inclosed within the latter measures about 125 feet in diameter, and contains a choaked-up well, and the ruined foundations of several circu- lar tenements, or habitations. These are connected to the inner wall, and nm parallel all roimd it, leaving an open space in the centre. The present state of these ruins demonstrate that this castle was constructed before any rules of architecture were adopted in military buildings ; for there appear no specimens of mortar, nor door-posts, nor fire-places with chimnies ; and had any of these ever been used in this singular and nide fortress, it is exceedingly improbable but that some traces might be now discovered amidst its vast ruins. On the north side of the castle appears a passage, or road, partly excavated out of the soil, and guarded by higli stones on each side. This communicates with tlie fortified retreat, iind the ruined buildings of a village or lowii, which occupy the north face of a hill, and consist of numerous foundations of circular huts. These are from ten to twenty feet in diameter, with a narrow entrance between two PARISH OF MILLOM. 185 of it as " Hardknott, a very steep mountain, on whose summit were lately discovered huge stones upright stones, without any chimney ; and the walls composed of various sized stones, rudely piled together without mortar. The knowledge of lime as a cement, says Mr- Whitakcr, was first introduced into this country by the liomnns."— Beauties of England and Wales. " As security was the primary object studied by the Britons hi con- structing a town, we may readily believe that the nations which occupied the more mountainous districts of the island, chose the site of their places of retreat on tlie summit of elevations, difficult of access, and command- ing extensive views, .\ccordingly, we fmd in several parts of Wales, and in Cornwall, in Lancashire, Shropshire, Cambridgeshire, Hereford- shire, and other counties of England, the remains of castramctations on tall precipitate hUl tops, which are conlidently believed to have been the fastnesses, or towns of retreat, constructed by the ancient inhabitants of the island. " These fastnesses enclose a considerable area, and are of an irregular form, the outlines complying with the natural shape of the hill on which they are constructed. Where the sides arc not defended by precipices, they are guarded by several ditches, and by ramparts, either of earth or of stones, worked without the use of mortar. They have sometimes only one, but more frequently have two entrances. One of the most impor- tant of these strong holds may desirably be adduced in this place, as a specimen of their prevailing character, since it is situated, according to the remark of Mr. King, 'on a spot that could not but be an object of the utmost attention to the original inhabitants of those territories, wluch afterwards were deemed distinctly England and Whales, from the very division here formed.' This is now termed the Herefordshire Beacon, and is reared on the summit of one of the highest of the Malvern ridge of hills. The area of the castrameUition comprises an irregular oblong, of 175 feet by UO feet, and is surrounded by a steep and lofty vallum of stones and earth, and by a deep ditch on the outside. Attached to the principal area, are two outworks, of considerable extent, situated lower on the sides of the hill. Each of these enclose a plain, probably intend- cd for the reception of cattle in times of exigency and retreat ; and both arc artificially connected by a narrow slip of land, secured by a bank and ditch The acclivity of the hill, in its approach towards the summit, is guarded by several rude, but formidable, banks and ditches."-B'-ei.er'. Introduction to Beauties of England and Wales. 186 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. and foundations of a castle, to the astonishment of the beholders, it being so steep as hardly to be ascended." Bishop Gibson says, "these stones are possibly the ruins of some church, or chapel, which was built upon the mountain. For Wor- mius, in his Danish monuments, gives instances of the like in Denmark ; and it was thought an extraordinary piece of devotion, upon the planting of Christianity in these parts, to erect crosses, and build chapels in the most eminent places, as being both nearer heaven and more conspicuous: they were commonly dedicated to St. Michael." JNIr. Gough, also, in his additions to Camden, supposes the ruins may be those of "a chapel, or cross," erected on this mountain, as was the case on Cross-fell. In 1792, E. L. Irton, Esq. of Irton-hall, and Mr. H. Serjeant, of "\\'hitehaven, made a careful survey of this fort ; the latter gentleman took a ground-plan of these remains, and communi- cated the following account for Hutchinson's Cumberland.* He describes it as " being situat- ed on the west side of Hardknot-hill, about 120 yards on the left of the I'oad leading towards Kendal ; and has evidently been intended as a fortress, for the defence of that pass over the mountain. It is, as will appear by the plan, as nearly square as the ground would admit ; the sides being 352, 34 S, 3 17, and 323 feet respectively. The irregularity of the position of the gates, or entrances, is in like manner, owing to the inequa- lity of the gi"ound. It is built of the common * Vol. i. page 569 : ■where it is erroneously placed imder the parish of Muncastei. PARISH OF MILLOM. 187 fell-stone, except the corners, which, according to the report of the country people, among whom it is known by the name of Hardknot Castle, were of free-stone, but has been all taken away for buildings in the neighbourhood ; there being no free-stone nearer than Gosforth : but for that circumstance, it is probable, the fortress would have been standing at this day, in a state of ad- mirable perfection. In digging, to clear the foundation of the inner buildings, Mr. Serjeant says, they met with a great many fragments of brick, apparently Roman, which nmst necessarily have been brought from a considerable distance ; also several pieces of slate, and near the entrances some small arching stones, or pen stones, of free- stone, with remains of mortar on them ; shewing, that in all proI)ability, these entrances, or gate- ways were arched. The gateway to the east, leads to a piece of ground of about two acres, at the distance of 1.50 yards, which, by great labour, has been cleared of the stones that encumbered it, used perhaps for a parade, and military exer- cise. On the north side of that plot, is a forced, or artificial l)ank of stones, now slightly covered with turf, having a regular slope from the summit, near which, on the highest ground, are the remains of a round tower. From this, the road is continued along the edge of the hill to the pass, where it joins the highest part of the present road to Kendal." Another correspondent, in the same work (the Rev. Aaron Marshall) says, " a road leading to Ambleside, is called the Iv///g.s Couch Road ; not many years ago, several pieces of a leaden pipe were found in a direction to the fort, leading 188 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. from a well, called JVIaddock-how-well, about a mile and a half distant, which indisputably sup- plied the fort with water." Hardknott castle commands a magnificent view of Scafell and the Pikes — the loftiest of the moun- tains in the lake district : the former being ac- cording to the trigonometrical survey, 31G6 feet, and the latter Mr. Otley estimates at 3100. The Irish sea is also in sight, and a pleasing variety of mountains and lowlands, "It is in the recol- lection of several old people, now living, of pack- horses leaving the wool-pack-yard [Kendal] for ^^'hitehaven, over Hardknot and Wrynose ; a road now only seldom visited except by the soli- tary shepherd and the lake tourist." Ulpha, like many other parts of Cumberland, is remarkable for tlie longevity and robust persons of its inhabitants ; one of whom, Mr. Joseph Stephenson, a yeoman of Panelholm, living in 1S29, was 6 feet 8| inches in height. At that time it was stated that " six brothers and sisters of the name of Jackson, are now living, though the youngest of them is S6 years of age, and their fixther died at the age of 103. Besides these, here are three widows and a wife, whose united ages amount to 333 years." " The Old Hall, now a farm-house, bears marks of great antiquity, and was probably the seat of the lords of llpha. Near to it is a well, called ' Lady's Dub,' where tradition says a lady was killed by one of the numerous wolves that formerly infested this wild region, the soil of which has been greatly improved by cultivation, especially in the low lands, where wheat was first 1784. The higher lands are mostly PARISH OF MILLOM. 189 sheep farms, but a large portion of the chapehy is covered with woods and coppices, the hitter of which yiekl a large and regular supply of ma- terials for making hoops, bobbins, &c. — Rains- barrow ^^'ood is famous for producing immense crops of fine hazel nuts, which in a favourable year, are worth about 200/, In the northern part of Ulpha is an excellent quarry of light blue slate, of which about 1400 tons are raised an- nually. Two copper mines were formerly wrought here, and zinc has been found in the chapehy. This part of the Duddon contains fine trout, and was the resort of salmon till 1S05, when Mr. To\vcrs built a wear across the river at Duddon (irove, but this obstruction has been lessened, pursuant to a legal decision, made by arbitration in 1S26, after a trial at Lancaster in 1821."* The Chapel of Ulpha was certified to the gov- ernors of Queen Ann's bounty of the annual value of 5/. " whereof 3/. G,v. 'Sd. was the ancient chapel salary." It has been since augmented by Queen Ann's bounty, and was returned to the commissioners for enquiring respecting Ecclesi- astical llevenucs, of the average annual value of 49/., with a glebe-house fit for residence. This "unwealthy mountain benefice" is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the vicar of iNIillom. The present incumbent is the Rev. Jeremiah "\\'alker, who was appointed in 1S2S. The chapel, dedi- cated to St. John, is a humble edifice, situated in a " wave-washed church-yard," seven miles north of the mother-church. It is the theme of one of Parson and White. 2 fi 190 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Wordsworth's beautiful sonnets, which shall en- rich our page. "The Kirk of Ulpha to the Pilgrim's eye Is welcome as a Star, that doth present Its shining forehead through the peaceful rent Of a black cloud diffused o'er half the sky ; Or as a fruitful palm-tree towering high O'er the parched waste beside an Arab's tent ; Or the Indian tree whose branches, downward bent, Take root again, a boundless canopy. How sweet were leisure ! could it yield no more Than mid that wave-washed Church-yard to recline, From pastoral graves extracting thoughts divine ; Or there to pace, and mark the summits hoar Of distant moon-lit mountains faintly shine, Sooth'd by the imseen River's gentle roar." At the time the chapel was consecrated, it was endowed with the small tithes of the district, or rather a modus in lieu of them, as it is a fixed annual payment from every tenement and land- holder in the chapelry. Mr. William Danson, of the parish of St. Clement Danes, Westminster, who died in 1 797, possessed of property in this chapelry, direct- ed by his will that the sum of 3/., chargeable on Folds estate, should be annually and for ever paid by his heirs to the churchwardens of Ulpha, to be by them distributed amongst the most needy of the poor in that parish, of which he was a native. This sum continued to be paid to the chiuchwardens, though not always distributed by them exactly as directed, until the year 1816, when the Commissioners appointed to inquire into Charities, although they ordered the bequest to be " paid and distributed as directed," at the same time expressed an opinion that, according to the statute of mortmain, its payment could PARISH OF MILLOM. 191 not be enforced. This coming to the ears of the person who at that time farmed the estate, he took advantage of the circumstance, and dis- continued the payment. H. Danson, Esq., of London, however, who lately came to the Ulpha propeity, has directed his agent, INIr. William Poole, of River Bank, to deduct 3/. annually from the rents of his estates, to be distributed by himself and the Rev. E. Tyson, of Seathwaite, each Christmas day, according to the direction of his gi-andfather's will. This act of liberality on the part of Mr. Danson is highly creditable to him, and has been received with much grati- tude by the poor persons who have partaken of the bounty.* This chapelry had the advantage of a parochial library, established in 1761, by the associates of Dr. Bray : none of the volumes, however, are now remaining. Charities. The School at Millom-Below. — Joseph Hudles- ton, Esq. of Millom castle, (son of Sir William Hudleston, Knight,) who died in 1700, endowed this School with 100/. ; but that endowment has been irrecoverably lost by the insolvency of a person in whose hands it was deposited. It now enjoys, in common with the two schools atlNIillom- Above and at Thwaites, a share of a bequest of 800/. bequeathed in 1 S 1 1 by Mr. A^■illiam Atkinson, of Bog-house, " who ordered it to be invested in government-stock, and the interest, (except 21. 12s.) to be applied half-yearly for the education • Whitehaven Herald. 2 B 2 192 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. of poor boys and girls in these three townships, at the discretion of the trustees ; provided ' that not more than is. be given for teaching any poor scholar for a quarter of a year, nor even that if the scholars can be well and diligently taught for less.' " Fifty shillings of the interest is to be given annually to the customers at Upper Beck- stones-mill ; no family to have more than three shillings, nor less than one shilling. The Grammar School of JVhichain and M/llom. — The particulars relating to this school, founded for the benefit of the two parishes, have been already stated, at page 101. The School at Millom-Above. — This school has an equal share in the above-named legacy of Mr. William Atkinson. The School at Thwa'ites also enjoys one-third of the interest arising from Mr. W. Atkinson's legacy. Poor Stock. — In 1722, it was certified that there was a poor-stock of 30/. 2s. Or/, belonging to this parish ; " given by several persons not known." School at Ralhj-green. — On the 4th December, 1809, this school was opened; being solely insti- tuted and supported by the Rev Myers, of Shipley-hall, rector of Edenham, co. Lincoln, for the instruction of twenty girls, in all the necessary and useful branches of female education, the children of sober and industrious labourers belong- ing to this parish. The particulars respecting some other charities are given under the accounts of the chapelries of Ulpha and Thwaites. Ctjc l?amf) of Irtoit. HIS parish contains the two townships of Irton and Santon with Mel- tliwaitc, and is of small extent, heing only two miles in length, and one and a half in breadtli. It is bounded on the south, by the Mite, which divides it from the parish of Muncaster ; on the west, by the parish of Drigg; on the north, by the parish of Gosforth ; and on the east, by the manor of Miterdale and the chapelry of Wasdale, in the parish of St. Bees. This parish was enclosed pursuant to an act of parliament, passed in 1809, under which an allot- ment of land was given to the impropriator in lieu of tithes, and two statute acres were allotted for the better support of the school.* The Irt, which gives name to the parish, flows through it in a south-westerly direction. Camden mentions this river as being famous on account of its shell-(ish producing pearls. They appear at a former period to have been very plentiful in this river.f • Lysoiis. t See further particulars, under tlie parish of Drigg, pp. 106, 107. 194 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The surface of this parish is rather hilly, but in no part is it mountainous. The soil varies, being in some parts gravelly, in others clayey, or formed of a mossy earth. Granite is plentiful near Irton Hall ; but neither coals, limestone, nor freestone, are found in the parish. There was formerly a corn-mill in this parish to which all who held under the lord of the manor were bound, but all vestiges of it have long since been swept away ; the farm, however, upon part of which it stood, still retains the name of Mill- Place. Another mill has been erected some dis- tance higher up the stream at San ton-Bridge, which also is the property of the lord of the manor, but without making any pretensions to the ex- clusiveness of soccage. Facing Irton Hall, on the opposite or Santon side of the river, are the extensive nursery-grounds of Mr. Gaitskell, — much and deservedly-admired for the neat and elegant manner in which they are laid out. His conservatory of rare and valu- able exotics attracts every summer great numbers of visitors. A little lower down is Greenlands, a beautiful villa, with extensive demesne attached, belonging to Thomas Brocklebank, Esq. the opulent mer- chant and ship-owner of Liverpool. The Manor of Irton, This manor has been held by the ancient family of that name from at least as early a period as soon after the Conquest, whose descendant, Samuel Irton, Esq., M.P. for the western division of the county of Cumberland, is the present lord. PARISH OF IRTOM. 195 The demesne is large ; " the tenants pay cus- tomary rents, arbitrary fines, and heriots, with other boons and services." Irton of Irton.* Arms: — Argent, a fess sable, in chief three mullets gules. Crest : — A Saracen's head. Motto : — Semper constans etjidelis. Mr. Burke, in his " History of the Commoners of Great Britain and Ireland," says, the lirst of the family mentioned by Mr. Warburton, Somerset herald, is Bartram d'Yrton, who lived in the beginning of Henry 1. ; and Richard is mentioned soon after the Conquest, as appears by a deed of gift in the exchequer of lands given to the abbey at York, by Andrew de Morwick, to which Bartram was an evidence. He was succeeded by Adam d'Yrton, of Yrton, who was one of the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, and attending Godfrey of Boulogne, and the other christian princes to the Holy Land, was at the siege of Jerusalem. During the war he slew a Saracen general, and is said to have severed at one blow theinlidel's head from his body, lie married Joan Stutville, and was father of Hugh d'Yrton, who married Gertrude Tiliol, of an ancient and eminent family, which possessed Scaleby castle and a large estate on the borders, and was succeeded by his son, Edmund d'Yrton, who joined the crusade under Richard I. and participated in all that monarch's wars. He lost his life in the journey to Jerusalem, and left by his wife, the daughter of Edmund Dudley, of Yanwath, in Westmorland, a son and successor. Stephen d'Yrton, who married Jane Dacre, (who was rety to Henry HI. for her brother, Thomas Dacre, for his safe keeping of the castle of Bridgcnorth, in Salop, against the incursions of the Welsh), and had two sons, namely, surety • A great portion of this pedigree has been supplied by Burke's Commoners. 196 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. "Roger, his heir. Randolpl), who was bred a priest at Rouen, in Norman- d)'. On his return to England, he was made prior of Gisburn, in Yorkshire, and being a man of great learning and piety, was constituted in 1280, bishop of Carlisle. He was a firm defender of the rights of his church, and maintained a suit against Sir Michael de Harcla, by which, in 1281, he recovered the manor and church of Dalston. He was also a party in a suit for tithes of newly-cultured lands, within the forest of Inglewood, claimed to be granted to the church of Carlisle by Henry I., who enfeoffed the same jtvr quoddam conui elurneum. The right to the tithes, however, was adjudged to the king, (Edward I.,) who afterwards granted the same to the prior and convent. Bishop Irton was joined in commission with the Bishop of Caithness, to collect tenths within the kingdom of Scotland. He was one of the king's most confidential commissioners, for adjusting the claims to the crown of Scotland, in 1291. He was one of the plenipotentiaries empowered to contract Prince Edward in marriage with Queen Margaret of Scotland ; and was a person of great note in many other of the most important political transactions of his time. He died at Linstock, March 1st 1292. The Chro- nicle of Lanercost reports, that being fatigiied with a tedious journey in deep snow, in returning from parliamerit in London, after due refreshment he retired to rest; and a vein bursting in his sleep, he was found suffocated with blood. The elder sou, Roger d'Yrton, married, and had a son and successor, William d'Yrton, who married Grace Ilanmer, of Shrop- shire, a near relative of the Hanmers, of Hanmer, in Flint- shire, and was succeeded by his son, Roger d'Yrton, living in 1292, who married Susan, daugh- ter of Sir Ale.xander Basinthwaite, and sister of Sir Alexander Basinthwaite, who was slain at the battle of Dunbar, in 1296. By this lady, Roger d'Yrton acquired the manors of Basin- thwaite, Loweswater, Unthank, and divers others lands of considerable value, and had a son and heir, Adam d'Y'rton, who wedded Elizabeth, sole heiress of Sir PARISH OF IRTON. 197 John Copeland, and obtained with her the manors of Berker, Berkby, and Senton. He left two sons, of whom, the younger, Alexander, married a lady of the family of Oding- sels, and settled at Wolverly, in Warwickshire. The elder, Richard d'Yrton, married Margaret, daughter of John Broughton, of Broughton, in Stafl'ordshire, and was father of Christopher Irton, of Irton, who married Margaret, daugh- ter of Richard Redman, of lierwood castle, and was succeed- ed by his son, Nicholas Irton, of Irton, who occurs 12th Henry VI., in the list of the gentry of the county returned by the commis- sioners, (see Lealh Ward, p. 495). He married a daughter of William Dykes, of Wardell, in Cumberland, and was suc- ceeded by his son, John Irton, Esq., of Irton, living temp. Edward IV., who married Anne, daughter ot Sir Thomas Lamplugh, Knt., by Eleanor, his wife, daughter of Sir Henry Fenwick, of Fen- wick, and had, with another son, Joseph, (who left two daughters, Elizabeth, married to William Armorer, Esq. ; and Mary, married to John Skelton, Esq., of Armathwaite castle), a son, William Irton, Esq., of Irton, who was appointed in 1493 general to the Uuke of Gloucester, and (as appears by an old grant in the family) his deputy lieutenant. He married a daughter of the ancient house of Fleming of Rydal, and was succeeded by his son, Thomas Irton, Esq., of Irton, wlio received the honour of knighthood from the Earl of Surrey, at Floddenficld, and was slain in a skirmish at Kelso, with the Scotch. He died 8. p. and was succeeded in 1503 by his brother, Richard Irton, Esq. of Irton, who was high-sheriff of the county of Cumberland, in the 22nd Henry VIII. He married Anne, daughter of Sir ^\'illiam Middlcton, knight, of Stokeld Park. In tlic 35th Henry VIII. it was found by inquisition that he held the manor and town of Irton, of the king, as of his castle of Egremont, by homage, and fealty, \d. rent, and suit at the court of Egremont. He also possessed Cleter, and a moiety of the manor of Bassenthwaite. Christopher Irton, Esq. son and heir, married in 1543, 2 c 198 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Elizabeth, daughter of Sir William Mallory, knight, of Stud- ley park, and was succeeded by his son, John Irton, Esq. who married in 1577, Dorothy, daughter of Roger Kirkby, Esq. of Kirkby in Furness. John Irton, Esq. son and heir, appears in the list of the gentry of the county who contributed to the support of the garrison of Carlisle, during the great rebellion. He married in 1638, Anne, sister of Sir Harry Ponsonby, ancestor of the Earls of Besborough, and left a son and successor, John Irton, Esq. who married in 1658, Elizabeth, daughter of ... . Musgrave of Jlealrig, younger brother of Sir William Musgrave, Knight, of Crookdake. See an anecdote of this Mr. Irton, under our account of Irton Hall, page 199. George Irton, Esq. son and heir, married Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Lamplugh, Esq, of Lamplugh, and was succeeded by his son, George Irton, Esq. who, in 1753, was high-sheriflF of the county of Cumberland. In 1695, he married Elizabeth, eldest daughter of David Poole, Esq. of Knottingley and Syke- house, CO. York, by whom he had two sons and five daughters. Mr. Irton died 7th December, 1 749, aged 82, and was buried in the same grave with his wife (who died in 1744) in the chancel of the parish-church of Irton, where is a monument to their memory. Samuel Irton, Esq. son and heir, married Frances, only daughter and heiress of Robert Tubman, Esq. of Cockermouth, by whom he had three sons and three daughters, all of whom survived him. Mr. Irton was high-sheriff of the county in the 5th George III., and died in London, 12th April, 1766, aged 50. His remains were brought to Irton, and interred in the chancel of the church there, where is a monument to his memory. His widow remarried to ... . Brathwaite, Esq. and dying in 1802, was buried in the church of flawkshead. Mr. Irton was succeeded by his eldest son, Edmund Lamplugh Irton, Esq., who married, firstly, .... daughter of Hodgson, Esq., of Hawkshead ; and, secondly, (2nd August, 1787), Harriet, daughter of John Hayne, Esq., of Ashbourn Green, co. Derby. By the latter he had issue, Samuel, his successor, the present lord. PARISH OF IRTON. 199 Richard, a major, in the rifle brigade, who married Sarah, daughter of Joseph Sabine, Esq. Anne, married to Joseph Gunson, Esq. of Ingwell. Frances. Mr. Irtoa died 2nd November, 1820, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Samuel Irton, Esq, M.P. who was born 29th September, 1796. Mr. Irton is in the commission of the peace for Cumberland, and has represented the western division of the county of Cumberland in several parliaments. In 1825, (July 25th) he married Eleanor, second daughter* of Joseph TifTm Senhouse, Esq., of Calder Abbey, an officer in the guards, by his second wife, Sarah, daughter of John Sunder- land, Esq. of Cartmel, co. Lancaster. Irton Hall. Irton Hallf has been for many centuries the manorial-house and seat of the ancient family of the Irtons. The present mansion, however, is of a more recent date, excepting the fortified tower, which is still retained. It is pleasantly seated amid noble trees on the summit of an ac- clivity sweeping up from the Irt, about a quarter of a mile cast from the parish-church. Mr. Sandford's IMS. contains the following notice of this mansion, and a pleasing anecdote of the loyalty of one of the ancestors of the pre- sent lord of the manor :— " A litle above nye the montanes towards Moncastre.a great tower-house of ancient family of Squire Iretons of Ireton, but not of that fatall Iretons, of Oliver's tribe ; for this now [circa 1675] lord of Ireton hall came to attend at the King's [Charles II.] returne to • Mar)-, the elder sister, married Thomas Invin, Esq., who now resides at Calder Abbey. t A view of Irton Hall is published in Neale's SeatB. 2 c 2 200 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. London ; and some gallants brought him to kiss the king's hand. ' And now/ quoth he, * I have blessed my eyes with a sight of [the] king : He even goe home, and end my days in Godd's peace, I hope.' " The most striking architectural feature of this building is a quadrangular tower, built in the castellated style, with embrasures, which — from its gi-eat antiquity, and from the circumstance of the other parts of the mansion being of various and more modern dates — we may reasonably presume to have constituted the principal part of the manorial hall. " Thou stand'st a monument of strength subhme, A giant, laughing at the threats of Time !" The site of this mansion has been most judi- ciously selected, as it is extremely picturesque, and commands an extensive view of the sublime scenery in its immediate vicinity, and of the Isle of Man and the southern part of Scotland. The present representative of the family is Samuel Irton, Esq., INI. P. for the western division of the county of Cumberland, who is lord of the manors of Irton and iNIelthwaite. In front of the hall stands an oak of gigantic dimensions, its circumference being so great that three men can scarcely encompass it with their extended arms. It was, at a former period, remarkable for its gi-eat spread of limb, covering an area of almost incredible extent, and was an object of universal admiration in the neighbour- hood. At present, however, it is sadly " shorn of its fair proportions," all its principal branches having dropped off by natural decay, and nothing PARISH OF IRTON. 201 remaining but the trunk and a few apparently thriveless shoots. It bears evident marks of very great antiquity ; and judging from its appearance, it would perhaps be " no extravagant arithmetic" to say, that this " brave old oak"— this venerable sylvan patriarch has " brav'd a thousand years The lightning and the breeze." The Manor of Santon. Santon, in the time of Henry HI. was held by Alan de Copeland, whose mansion-house was in the township of Bootle. " He held of Thomas de Multon of Gilsland, who held over of the lord of r>remont." He was succeeded by his sons, Alan^'and Richard, and they by John and Richard. In the 22nd Richard II., Alan son of Richard Copeland held lands here. In the year 1777, Santon was held by the families of Irton and Winder ; the moiety held by the latter having been purchased of Latus, who bought it from the Lancasters. It is now the property of Skeffington Lutwidge, Esq., of Holm-Rook Hall. The Church. The church of Irton, {Eccl. S. Michael de Yirrton, Archidiac. Richmond*) it appears from Tanner, was appropriated in the year 1227, to the nunnery of Setou or Lekely : on the dissolution of religious houses, it was granted to the Penning- tons, of Muncaster, ancestors of the present Lord Tanner. 202 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT, Muncaster. The tithes and the right of advow- son remained in that family until the year 18. . when Lord Muncaster sold them to Samuel Irton, Esq. M.P. the present patron. The benefice does not occur in the Valor Ecclesiastic/is of Henry VHI. It was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty at the annual value of 41. 13s. id. The dedication, according to Nicolson and Burn, is to St. Paul, although Tanner speaks of it as, ecclesia S. Michael de Yirrton. The present in- cumbent is the Rev. John Grice, who is also the perpetual curate of the parish of Drigg. On the enclosure of the parish, pursuant to an act of parliament passed in 1809, an allotment of land was given in lieu of tithes. The parish church of Irton, dedicated to St. Paul, is a very handsome modern structure, pre- senting an appearance of external elegance not frequently met with in remote naral districts ; nor are its internal appointments calculated to disappoint those favourable impressions which its prepossessing exterior cannot fail to inspire. It has a chancel, nave, and quadrangular tower of considerable elevation, in three stories ; the basement forming a commodious vestibule before entering the body of the building ; the second story being fitted up for the pui-poses of a vestry-room ; and the uppermost containing the bells. The whole is surmounted by four balls of proportionate dimensions. As the site of this church is on elevated ground, it forms a very conspicuous object in the surrounding scenery ; and throughout an area of several miles, on reaching the summit of any eminence, its white airy outUne is almost invari- PARISH OF IRTON. 203 ably the first thing that meets the eye of the spectator. An inscription on the front of the gallery ni- fomis us that the church was rebuilt in the year 1 795. The registers of this parish do not contain any thing worth extracting ; the truth is, they have been very negligently kept, not extending farther back in any instance than 100 years. It is very probable that those of an older date have been lost or destroyed at the time of rebuilding the church. An oval tablet of white marble, on the north side of the nave, is thus inscribed — Merito Parcntibus, THOMCE MOSSOP, (Ob. XVIII Cal. Sep. MDCCXXXIV Mt. LXXII.) Nee non Conjugi Annte, (Ob. XII Cal. Ap. Eodemque Anno jEt LXXII). J. Mossor Cler. A.M. Faciundum Curavit. On the same side is the following inscription, in gilt letters on a framed board : — Thia erected to the memory of JOHN WINDER of Stangcnds, Gentlem" who departed this life the 24th November, 1750, aged 82 years. By his nephew John Freers. On the same side, at the head of the family pew of the Lutwidges, is a monument remarkably chaste and classical in its design, elegant and 204 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. masterly in its execution, imposing by its height and the richness and dazzHng polish of the ma- terials, but above all, fascinating for the studied correctness and laboured finish of its minutest details ; in fact, one of those splendid specimens of art to which the eye of the connoisseur may revert again and again, and still find something new to admire and applaud. It bears the follow- ing inscription : — To the memory of SKEFFINGTON LUTWIDGE, of Holm Rook, Esquire, Admiral of the Red,* Who commanded in 1773, H. M. S. Carcass, on a voyage of Discovery towards the North Pole. He bore many high and important Commands With honor to himself and advantage to the public service. In private life • Of course, the rash and chivalrous adventure of Nelson and one of his juvenile associates iu pursuit of a bear on the ice is familiar to our readers, as it is as notorious and as much a matter of history as any of his most illustrious achievements in after-life ; but as it is not so generally kown that tie embryo hero of the Nile and of Trafalgar was serving at the time of the occurrenceof this incident tinder the gallant admiral whose obituary is recorded above, we hope the following extract, which estab- lishes this fact, will not be considered uninteresting. — " When the ex- pedition of discovery towards the North Pole, imderCommodore Phipps, sailed next year, (1773) Nelson had used all his interest to be permitted to go with Captain Lutwidge, in the Carcass, as his cockswain. In this object of his ambition he succeeded ; and during the voyage, displayed some of his characteristic traits. We can mention only the following. One night, when they were surromidcd by ice, the young cockswain and a ship-male, undaunted by their danger, stole from the vessel to hunt a bear. They were soon missed ; and the signal was made for their ret urn, which they were obliged to obey, and much to their mortification, without securing their prey. 'What reason could you have,' said Captain Lutwidge to Nelson, 'for hunting a bear?' 'Sir,' replied be, ' I wished to get the skin for my father," " PARISH OF IRTON. 205 He waa distinguished by the sweetness of his manners ; A kind relation and warm friend. He died on the lolh of August, in the year 1814, In the 78 Year of his age. His remains were deposited near this Place, In the same grave with CATHERINE, his wife, Daughter of Ricbabd Hauvey of Londonderry, Esq. Who died on the 2Ist day of January 1810, aged 48 years. This monument is dedicated by their grateful nephew. Major S. Lutwidge. On the north side of the altar-table is a marble monument ^vith tliis inscription — Near this place Lies the body of SAM. IRTON, Esq. Who died in London, April the I'ilh, 17G6, in the 51 year of his age. He was a sincere and faithful friend. An affectionate and tender Husband, A careful and indulgent parent. He left issue three sons and three daughters By Frances, Daughter of Robt. Tubman Of Cockerraouth in this County, Gent. Who in Testimony of her sincere regard and Edtecm for his memory has caused this monument to be erected, 1767. On the south side of the altar-table on a marble monument is the following — Under this monument in one grave are deposited the remains of GEORGE IRTON Esq.of Irton Hall in this parish, and ELIZABETH his wife. She departed this life y"^ 19lh February, 17 14 aged 70 years, and he December y« 7lh, 1749, aged 82. They were the best of Parents to their children, and the sincercst of friends. After a long life spent with the greatest Industry they retrieved an Estate almost lost. She was Eldest Daughterof David I'oole of Knottiugly in the East Riding of York, Esq They left issue living 2 sons and five Daughters, Sam'- the youngest son who survived his father and mother, erected this monument out of a due filial and affectionate regard to the memory of both of them. 2 D 206 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERVVENT. On the south side of the chancel there is an oblong marble slab surmounted by a sarcophagus ; the latter bears this inscription — In memory of LIEUTENANT COLONEL SAMUEL IBTON, Who after a residence of Thirty three years in India, In the service of The Honorable East India Company, Returned to England in Sept. 1811, And died 13th March, 1813, Aged 49 years. On the slab are the following verses : — Those who were taught from earliest youth to view, With pleasure, his return so long protracted ; Now saw with transport, every vision true. That hope had form'd or memory contracted. Saw every social virtue, sweetly blending. Where valour's self stood prompt at glory's call ; And fame and honor, on his steps attending, Yet generous, kind, affectionate to all. Against the south wall, over the pew of the Irton family, is another marble monument bearing the following inscription : — In memory of FRANCES BRATHWAITE, formerly IRTON, Who died July XIX, MDCCCII, aged LXX years, And was buried in Hawkshead Church. This monument was erected From a filial aifeclion for one of The best of Parents; By E. L. Ibton, of Irton Hall, And Samuel Irton, a major in the service oUhe East India Company at Madras, wo of her sons by her first husband Samuel Ikton of Irton, Esq. S/ie searched the scriptures daily. zuht^ hj Stun- &>u^h /~7y/V 7^?z Irion Church lard. S Je/fersen. Carlisle PARISH OF IRTON. 207 In the church-yard, is an ancient cross, nearly ten feet higli, the four sides of which are very richly carved, as represented in the engraving. They are sculptured with the most elegant scrolls, knots, and frets, very much in the style of the decorations of the celebrated MS. — Textus Sancti Cuthbert'i, preserved in the British Museum, which was written about the close of the seventh century.* HoLME-RooK Hall. Holme-Rook Hall, on the north banks of the Irt, three miles north east from Kavenglass, is a neat edifice, in a picturesque locality, situated on the summit of an eminence overlooking the river, and commanding a very extensive prospect. The present occupant is Skeffington Lutwidge. Esq., a retired Major in the honorable E. I. C's. service, who is lord of the manors of Santon, in this parish, and of I'pper and Lower Bolton, in the adjoining parish of Gosforth. The School. This school was founded in the year 171S, and its management vested in the following trustees : — George Irton, Esq., Nicholas Nicholson, Wil- liam Caddy, John Nicholson, Henry Caddy, and Tliis information is obtained from a free- stone tablet, inserted into the wall of the porch, which is so defaced and mutilated as to require the greatest care and patience to decypher it. • Lysons. 2 D 2 208 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Henry Caddy of Katch-Ground, the founder, endowed it with the sum of 100/., that it might be free to the parish on condition of certain pay- ments. There was also another grant of 10/. a year, arising out of the Gasketh estate, which, however, is lost, or at least has been withheld for several years. The master's direct income is at present about 8 guineas per annum: 11. 6s. of which occurs as interest from ISO/, invested in the hands of Samuel Irton, Esq., M.P., and the remainder as the rental of an allotment of land which was awarded to the school at the time of the en- closure of Irton Moor, pursuant to an act of parhament passed in 1809. The 180/. is supposed to be the original grant with some trifling accu- mulations. Ctje Uaridt) of fWunca0tfr. HE parish of JNIuncastcr is bounded on the south, by that of Wabevthwaite; on the west, by the Irish Sea; on the north, by the parishes of Irton and Drigg; and on the east, by tlie chapeh-ies of Ulpha and Eskdalc. It consists r-t tocMcU tiamc j'anc iO«Ic aicWotoc of ivx Robert &g.U t,t was a btaubc CTapitcn anD toill) tl)c TEiU Survic vclicbcB ilotbam CastcU XW. Bcrcs aftnt I)c sioutclic IjcaBctl I)i9 soulBltts at floOTcn ficltJ ■DicD itnoxriiDi. I)is ((( sonts toctc :<'oI)n, ^lan, antJ ?BilUam. ■5£rti) t'outi) upon tartl) as molB upon molt) TEnl) ijouil) upon TrattI) a? glnsuving in golB •as tljogi) ctil) to cttl) net tiun siiolB •anD Btt must ctti) to crti) sooner tijan Ijc molt). On another — To the memory of JOSEPH PENINGTON AnM» son of William and Katharine Pcnington. He married Margaret Fleetwood, leaTing one son William an Infant, died 1G58. 2 F 2 224 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. On a freestone slab — Here Ueth the remains of JOSEPH PENINGTON, Esq. and DAME ISABELL SAVILL He was a benefactor to this Parish leaving by will a sum of money to remane continue and be as a Stocke for releifc of the poore of the Parish to be bestowed and employed in maner and forme following, that is to say, my will and mind is that the same be bestowed in loaves of Bread to be weeklie dealt, twelve loaves every Sundaie throughout the whole yeare to the poore of the said parish. He bequeathed the like to the Parish of Drigg. To him King James granted the Church of Muncaster. died 1641. Vivit post funera virtus. On a freestone slab — To the memory of WILLIAM PENNINGTON Esqb Eldest son of Joseph Pennington Esqr and Dame Isabell Savill He married Katharine Sherboume He left 4 sons Joseph Alan Richard and Willm ■-ind 4 daughters Isabell Katharine Elizabeth and Bridget. died about 1652. On another — «9f iintirr Cljcrttirprrnc far tijr iSolnl al ^nr 3o!)n ^r i^rniiiigtoii Saiiiir of gm- 'Jllnii tst \i3cmn\^tan tuljo l)aBiic to ittufc eiij.ibctij tiDlutrr of ;§'iir ^'iitl^alSlir lUOcIiffr jjc acftucntiuatcr a toomnii of noble fataBc yiS J-itr^ioljii rfSSclicli l)Dlir iliniigc ^ynrrnr tuljycljr tu.TiS tornvii nr ^g'iftl) at i^olraStic 1 KU iumgr?i!arrnr jjabr ^ir Siufjn a br.iiibr tuorhiiU •Sln^iSc (Cuppr, tuitlj I;iS HoJj brforr yat tuOnlliiS il)r famnlir s'ljollJ ftrrj) Ijit iiiifairrltni tljrisbofii girtrlnctljrif luljntljc Ciippc is liallrli i\)C luflir of ittalras'trr fit teas' a arctc Gaptaiii onli Ijctlrli tijr Ir(t luiiigc of tljr armir aaannr tl)c ^tattiCiS ; VuIjnUri Gilr of ilattljumbrrlantt btliflt tl)f maniir boBir. PARISH OF MUNCASTER. 225 Another is thus inscribed — To tie memory of SYR JOHN PENYNGTON Kt. second son of WUliam PenjTigton Arm' One of the Gentlemen in ordinary of liis Majesty's privy chamber Governor and Captain of Sando\vn Castle in Kent and vice Admiral of his Majesty's fleet to maintain the sovereignty of the British seas Sir John Penington was a man of great courage openness and generosity and what heightened every one of hU virtues of uncommon piety he was appointed by the King 1642 Lord High Admiral The parliament strongly invited him to enter into their service but he never could be prevailed upon to serve against the king Ob Sepr 1616. A marble tablet is thus inscribed— Near this place lieth the body of CAPTAIN PHILIP PENNINGTON younger son of S' William Pennington Baron of Muncaster 1731. On another — Here lies interred the body of the most worthy friend and patriot SIR JOSEPH PENNINGTON Bakt ol Muncaster who died much lamented 1743 the 67 of hU age Member in Parliament For the County of Cumbcriand He married the Honourable Margaret Lowther Sister to the right Honourable The Lord Viscount Lonsdale. On another — Near this place are deposited the bodys of SYR WILLIAM PENNINGTON Baronet and DAME ISABELL his wife to whose memory this is inscribed by their dutiful eldest son I. P. )"31. 226 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. On a freestone slab — Here lieth the body of ELIZABETH STAPLETON wife to John Stapletou of Wartor Esqr. Daughter to Sir Wilfrid Lawson of Isi-U wlio departed this life the fiftoeuth day of September, in the year of out Lord God 1677. On a marble slab — In memory of SYR JOHN PENNINGTON Bart. who succeeded his Father Syr Joseph Pennington Bart. as member for the County of Cumberland 1744 He represented the said County in the 3 successive parliaments He was Lord Lieutenant and Gustos Rotulorum of the county of Westmoreland died 17G8. On another — GAMEL DE PENNINGTON Son of John Lord Muncaster and Penelope his wife Born 1st July 1780 Departed this life 9 Feby. 1788. Yes thou art fled, and Saints a welcome sing Thine infant spirit soars on Angel wing Our dark aifection led to hope thy stay The voice of God has called his child away Like Samuel early in the temple found Sweet rose of Sharon plant of holy ground Aye, and as Samuel blest to thee tis given The God ho scrv'cd on earth to serve in Heaven. On a marble tablet — Near the Altar PENELOPE The dearly beloved daughter of John and his incomparable wife Penelope ' April 23, 1811 A marble tablet bears this inscription to the memory of the lady of the first Lord Muncaster, who lost her life by an accidental fall : — PARISH OF MUNCASTER. 227 Johannes Conjugi Incomparabili To the memory of PENELOPE One of the very best of Wives One of the very best of Mothers One of the very best of Women Who met her melancholy fate in the house of One of the very best of Friends at Copgrovc near Kuaresboro' Yorkshire Where she departed this life Upon the 15 of November 1806 Aged 62 Expressing Her fullest hope of a blessed Resurrection. On another — In memory of SIR JOHN PENNINGTON BARt LORD MUNCASTEB In whose Character were eminently distinguished The virtues of a Christian, Patriot, Husband, Father, Friend, He lived the life of the righteous and now that time hath led him to liis end Goodness and He fill up one monument He died Member for the County of Westmoreland on the 8th day of OcU 1813 aged 76. The following inscription, on a marble tablet, is the only one in the nave : — Memento mori THE REV. THOMAS POOLE of Cropplchow in this Parish died July 31. 17G6 aged 73 yeara MARY POOLE his wife died June 9. 1760 aged 63 years. JOHN POOLE EsQR their son died on Sunday December 22—1805 aged 67 years Sic transeunt mortalcs. 228 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. On the south side of the church-yard, is an ancient cross,* four feet nine inches high, and ornamented with guilloches. Near it arc two venerable yew-trees which have survived the storms of several hundred winters. Pennington, Lord Muncaster. Arms : — Or, five fusils in fess azure. Crest : — On a wreath, a cat-a-mountaiu, passant guardant, proper. Supporters : — On the dexter side, a lion guardant, proper, chaged on the breast with an oak branch, vert ; and on the sinister side, a horse reguardant, proper, bridled, or. Motto : — Amor eincit patricv. This ancient family took their name from Pennington, in Furness, Lancashire, where they resided until about the year 1242, and where "there is still visible the foundation of a square building, called the Castle, near the centre of the vill. . . . Here the family of Pennington resided before the Conquest. "f " The first ancestor of this family, that occurs after the Conquest, is Gamel de Pennington, aperson ofgroat note and property.']: From him descended another Gamel, who had two sons, Meldred and Gamel. In the reign of King John, Jocelin de Pennington, of this family was abbot of Furness : he was eminent for learning, and obtained from the pope some special privileges for his abbey. "The next that occurs is Benedict^ de Pennington : he was father of another Gamel, and gave the church of Molcastre (jMuncasterj and the chapel of Aldeburg to the hospital of Conishead. The same Benedict|| and Meldred, his brother, with consent of their heirs, gave to the abbey of Furness, Skeldon Moor. Alan, son of Alan do Pennington, gave to the hospital of Conishead, after it was erected into a priory, an acre of land in Overton (Orton) in Westmorland ; and after that, Gamel de Pennington gave to the priory of Conishead, the church of Pennington, with appurtenances ; and confirmed the grant * Engraved in Lysons's Magna Britannia. t West's Furness. J Ibid. { Monast. Ang. II Dodsworth's MS. PARISH OF MUNC ASTER. 229 of the church of Muncnstcr from Benedict de Pennington; and also gave the church of AVhilbcck and Skeroveiton, (Orton) and Pulton to the said priory. These benefactors flourished between the beginning of the reign of king Henry III. and the first of king Edward 111. The hospital of Con- ishead was founded by the thiid AViiliam de Lancaster, eighth baron of Kendal, in the reign of king Henry HI. and the foundation was coiifirnicd by king Edward II. which sufficiently proves the time of their occurrence. " Alan* de Pennington, knt. is witness to the grant of five hides of land from Elizabeth, late wife of Sir Kichard le Fleming, to the abbey of Furncss, A. D. 1'254. "Alanf de Pennington, knt. had a dispute with the monks of Furness, about land which laid to the high road that leads from Pennington to Kirkby Ircloth, in the reign of king Henry 111. A. T). 1278, Sir Alan^: de Peiniingtnn is witness to a grant from Gilbert de Bardesoy to the Monks. 33 Hen. III. Agnes, daughter of Sir John de . . • ., late wife of T. de Pennington, came to an agreement with the abbot of Furness concerning some land in dispute. The same Agnes, § A. D. 1254, released to the abbot of Furness the marriage of her children, by T. Pennington, son and heir of Alan de Pen- nington. Hence it appears, that T. de Pennington died before his father; and the Alan, who occurs in the reign of Edw. I. was the son of Thomas, and succeeded his grandfather Sir Alan. " Williamll de Pennington, A.D. 131 8, made an agreement with the abbut of Furncss for the suit and service of hia manor of Pennington." This pedigree, as given by West, differs from that in Nicolson and Hurn : they give it as follows: — Gamcl de Pennington, temp. Henry II. gave the churches of Mulcastcr, Penington, AVhiibcck, and of Orton in West- morland, to the priory of Conishoad; which grant was con- firmed by Edward 11. in the 12tliyearof his reign. Ilisson, Benedict, had several children. Alan, son of Alan, son of Benedict, granted lands at Orton aforesaid to his uncle Simon, son of the said Benedict: but according to'their family pedigree, (after the death of an elder son Robert,) he was succeeded by his son David, father of John, father of Alan, to whom Richard Lucy, as is hereafter mentioned, in the reign of King John, granted the fee ol Ravcnglass. • Dodswortli's MS. t Ibi'l- ♦ H^id- § ^^'^^- 11 ^'''<1- 2 G 230 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Thomas, son of Alan ; Alan, son of Thomas; John, son of Alan, of whom mention is made in the 21st Edward I. William, son of John. Thus far Nicolson and Burn.* Of this family was Sir John Pennington, knight, soa of Sir Alan, who was steadily attached to the unfortunate monarch, Henry VI., whom he had the honor of entertaining at Muncaster castle, in his flight from the Yorkists. f In acknowledgement of the protection ho had received, the king presented his host with a curious glass cup (which is still preserved at the castle, see page 216) with a prayer that the family should ever prosper, and never want a male heir, so long as they preserved it unbroken : hence the cup was cdWeA '■'■ the luck of Muncaster." Sir John is said to have been a distinguished military character, and to have com- manded the left wing of the English army in an expedition against Scotland.]: • The pedigrees of this family do not agree in the earlier part ; noi do the monumental inscriptions in the church, many of which were erected by the first Lord Muncaster, correspond with any account of ihe family which I have met with. I have therefore preferred giving an incomplete rather than an inaccurate pedigree. The monumental inscriptions to this family are given in a preceding part of this volume, pages 222 to 227. t This event is supposed to have taken place in 1461 : and that date is assigned to it in a picture at Mimcaster castle, as also on the monument erected to the memory of Sir John Pennington, in the chancel of the church of Muncaster. That monument, however, has been recently erected. It is a well-kno'mi fact that after the battle of Towton, which was fought on Palm Sunday, 29th March, 1401, terminating in favor of the Yorkists, Henry VI. took flight into Scotland. We have no evidence that he was then received here, neither on his journey northward, nor on his return. It appears to be equally probable that Henry was hereafter the battle of Hexham, 14th May, 1 1G3, when his troops sustained another defeat, and " Henry owed his safety to Ihe swiftness of his steed." Hume says, " some of his friends took him under their protection, and conveyed him into Lancashire ; where he remained concealed during a twelvemonth." This unfortunate monarch was also concealed for some time at Bolton-hall, in Yorkshire, see Gent. Mag. May and June, 1841. J His grandson, Sir John Pennington, was in the battle of Flodden- field, (see p. 22.3 ;) another descendant of Ihe same name, was admiral to King Charles I., and much trusted by that monarch in naval affairs. PARISH OF MUNCASTER. 231 John Pennington, Esq. his son, married Mary, daugh- ter of Sir John iludleston ; on which marruige in the 2^'^ Edward IV. the estate was solllcd upon the issue male. And he having only a daughter Isabel, married to Thomas Dykes, of WartlKilc, Esquire, the estate came to the second brother, William Pennington, Esq., who was succeeded by Joseph Pennington, Esq., son and heir. Sir William Pennington, knight, son and heir, mar- ried Isabel, daughter of John Fanington, of Warden, m Lancashire, Esq., «ilh whom he had tiie manor of Earnng- ton On an inquisition of knighls' fees in Cumberland, in the'Soth Ilcnrv VIII. , it is found that this Sir William held the manor of Muncaster of the king as of his castle of Egre- mont, by the service of the sixth part of one knight's fee, rendering to the king yearly for scawiike 12fi?., and the pu- ture of two sericauts; and that he held ihc hamlet of Eaven- glass in like manner, bv homage and fealty, and the service of the I7ih part of one knighfs fee, and puture of Serjeants as above. Jo-seph Pennington, Esq., married Margaret, daughter of John Fleetwood, ot Peuwoitbam, co. Lancaster, Esq. He was succeeded by hi.s sou and heir,* Sir William Pennington, first Baronet, so created 21st June 28ili Charles II., 1676. lie married Isabel, eldest daughter of John Stapleton, of Waiter, co. York, Esq., (son of Sir Philip Slaploton, knight,) with whom the manor of Warter came to the Peuninglcns. He had issue, Sir JosijJi, ini] baronet. Philip, died 1731, wiihout issue. Elizabeth, mai tied, firstly, John Archer, of Oxcnholme, CO. Weslmorliind, Esq.; and secondly, Thomas Strickland, ot Sizergh, m the same county, Esq. Margaret. ■, j , Sir William died 1st July, 1730, when he was succeeded by his son. Sir Joseph Pennington, second Baronet, who married the • Among the gculry of the county of Cumberland who were chosen by Charles II. to be invested with the projected Order of the Bojal Oak appears the uamc of VVilUam Pennington, lisq. 2 G 2 232 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Hon. Margaret Lowther, daughter of John, Viscount Lons- dale. By her (who died 1738) he had issue, John, 3rd baronet. Joseph, 4th baronet. Katherine, married, 1731, Eobert Lowther, Esq., governor of Barbadoes, father of James, first Earl of Lonsdale. Sir Joseph represented the county of Cumberland in two parliaments. He died in 1743, and was succeeded by his eldest son. Sir John Pennington, third Baronet, eldest son and heir, was lord-lieutenant and custos-rotuloruni of the county of Westmorland ; and knight of the shire for the county of Cumberland, in three parliaments. Sir John died unmarried, in 1768, when he was succeeded in the title and estates by his brother, Sir Joseph Pennington, fourth Baronet, married to Sarah, daughter and sole heiress of John Moore, Esq., by whom he had three sons and three daughters : — John, his successor. Joseph. LoKlher, 2nd baron. Jane. Katherine, married Humphrey Brookes Osbaldiston,'of Hunmanby, co. York, Esq. He died in 1773, and was succeeded by his eldest son. Sir John Pennington, fifih Baronet, who was created a peer of Ireland, 21st October, 1783, as Baron Muncaster, with remainder to his brother, Lowther Pennington, Esq. His lordship was the author of " Historical Sketches of the Slave Trade, and its Efiects in Africa," 8vo. 1792 ; he nearly rebuilt Muncaster castle, greatly improved the park, and put up a series of memorials of his family in the chancel of the church of Muncaster, (see pages 222 to 227.) He repre- sented the county of Westmorland in several parliaments. His lordship married Penelope daughter and coheiress of James Compton, Esq., a lineal descendant of the Earls of Northampton, (who died in 1806*) by whom he had issue, * This lady died in consequence of a fall received while her noble hosband was contesting the county of WesUnotland. PARISH OF MUNCASTER. 233 Gamel, ? died young. Ann Jane Penelope, S °„,, , „ t Maria-Frances-Margaret, married, 1811, theHon. James Lindsay, afterwards Earl of Balcarres. His lordship died at Muncaster castle, 8lh October, 1813, and was buried in the church of Muncaster. Leaving no male issue, the peerage devolved, according to the limita- tioD, upon his brother, Lowther, second Baron Muncaster and sixth Baronet, a general officer in the army, and colonel of one of the royal veteran battalions. Ilis lordship, while a commoner, married in 1802, Esther, second daughter of Thomas Barry, Esq., of Clapham, co. Surrey, and widow of James Morrison, Esq., by whom (who died in 1827) he left at his decease an only son, his successor. His lordship died in London, 29th July, 1818, after a lingering illness, aged 73. Lowther-Augustus-John, third Baron Muncaster and seventh Baronet, succeeded, while a minor, to the title and estates on the death of his noble father, the late lord. His lordship was born 14th December, 1802; and married m 1828, Frances-Catherine, youngest daughter of Sir John Ramsdon, of Byrom, co. York, Bart., by^honihe had issue, Fanny Caroline, baptized August 26, 1829. Gamcl Augustus, born December 3rd, 1831. Joslyn Francis dc Pennington, born December <43th, 1834. Alan Joseph, born April 5lh, 1837. Louisa Theodosia, baptized July 17th, 1838. His lordship died in 1838, aged 35, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Gamel Augustus, fourth Baron Muncaster, and eighth Baronet, was born 3rd December, 1831, and is consequently a minor. MULCASTER OF MuNCASTER. The Messrs. Lysons say this was a younger branch of the Penningtons of this parish. Soma of the family were sheriffs of Cumberland ni the reigns of Edward I. and 111. and members for 234 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Carlisle in the reign of Richard II. and in that of Queen Elizabeth ; one of this family married a coheiress of Tilliol. Richard Mulcaster, a native of Carlisle, was the first master of Merchant- Taylors' school, and afterwards upper master of St. Paul's. Arms : — Barry of six, arg. and gules, over all a bend, azure. Ravexglass. Ravenglassis a small sea-port and market-town, about sixteen miles S.S.E. from AVhitehaven, situ- ated on a small creek, into which flow the rivers Mite, Esk, and Irt. Camden says, it was supposed to have been called anciently Acen glass, or the blue river, and that there were current in his time "many stories about King Eveling, who had a palace here." Nicolson and Burn derive the name from the Irish renigh fern, and glass green, meaning " a gi-een of ferns." Ravenglass appears from INIr. Sandford's MS. to have been of old a place of some importance as a fishing-town : that worthy gentleman appears in this case to have indulged in a little exaggera- tion. — He says, here were "some salmons and all sorts of fish in plenty : but the greatest plenty of herrings fresh [it] is a daintye fish of a foot long ; and so plenteous a fishing thereof and in the sea betwixt and the ile of man, as they lye in sholes together so thike in the sea at spawning, about August, as a sli'ip cannot pass thoroxo : and the fishers go from all the coast to catch them." Mr. John Denton's account of Ravenglass is as follows : — " Ravenglass, now a village, anciently PARISH OF MUNCASTER. 235 a green of ferns (corruptly called of two Irish words, Rainigh Fernsald, Glass Green) was anciently another fee of Egremont. It stands at the foot of Esk, where, by King John's grant, made to Richard Lucy, then Lord of Egremont (dated the tenth year of that king's reign) was kept a market and a fair yearly, in right of the haven there, by the lords of Egremont, as lords paramount : and tlie same Ricliard Lucy, in the same year, confirmed by fine, levied to the mesne lords, and tcrr-tenants, all the land and fee of Ravenglass, namely to Alan Pennington, William Fitz Hugli, and Roger Fitz Edward, to hold the same of tlie said William and his heirs, and gave them, moreover, estovers, to make their fish- garths in the river Esk, which is continued to this day ; tlie Penningtons have long enjoyed the manor, and other lands there near ad- joining." King John granted to Richard de I/Ucy, as lord paramount, a yearly fair* to be held here on St. James' day and a weekly market every Saturday. But the said Richard Lucy the same year, by fine levied to Alan Pennington, confirmed to him as mesne lord and his tenants all the land and fee of Ravenglass, to hold to him and his heirs, with estovers to make fish garths in the river Esk.f Until of late years the fair was attended by some singular circumstances, which had been observed in all probability from the period when • Bot. Cart. 10 John, n. 27. — Lysons. Nicolson and Bum say Iho fair was granted for St. George's day (April 23,) and the market for Friday. t Nicolson and Burn. 236 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. the fair was granted, Nicolson and Burn say — " at present, the earl of Egremont holds the fair of Ravenglass on the eve, day, and morrow of St. James. On the first of these days in the morn- ing, the lord's officer at proclaiming the fair, is attended by the Serjeants of the bow of Egre- mont, with the insignia, belonging thereto ; and all the tenants of the forest of Copeland owe a customary service to meet the lord's officer at Ravenglass to proclaim the fair, and abide with him during the continuance thereof; and for sustentation of their horses, they have two swaiths of grass in the common field of Ravenglass in a place set out for that purpose. On the third day at noon, the earl's officer discharges the fair by proclamation ; immediately whereupon the Penningtons and their tenants take possession of the town, and have races and other divertisements during the remainder of the day,"* Mr. Sandford speaks of it as " a grand fair of three dayes long at St. James' time, for all sortes of cattle especially, and all other commodities from Ireland, Isle of Man, and Scotland." Oysters are found along the coast, but they are not very numerous. Other shell-fish, such as mussels and cockles, are more plentiful, and many salmon and morts are caught in the season by a fisherman from Scotland, bearing the significant name of Walter Scot, who rents what is called the Har- bour-mouth fishery, from Major-General Wynd- ham. The shipping trade of this port is very incon- siderable : it consists chiefly in exporting coast- • Nicolson and Bum. PARISH OF MUN'CASTER. 237 wise, spars, wooden hoops, corn, flour, oysters, oatmeal, and bacon. It is expected that iron ore from Eskdale and Corney 'will shortly be shipped here : the company have advej'tised for carting. I'he imports consist chiefly of coals for the ncighboinhood, a few cargoes of foreign gi'ain, and merchant goods. There is only one vessel belonging to the port — a small sloop, the Duchess of Leinster. On the bar at the mouth of the harbour or creek there are 22 feet of water in spring tides, and 12 feet at neap tides. John, Lord Muncaster, in 1796 procured a charter for two weekly markets at Ravenglass, on ^^'cdncsday and Friday, and three fairs for one day each, 11th March, 14th April, and 12th October. These are at present unattended. Two ancient fairs for horses and horned cattle are still held ; one on the Sth of June, belonging to Edward Stanley, Esq. M.P. of Ponsonby-hall ; the other on the 5th of August (the festival of St. James, O.S.) to INIajor-Gcneral Wyndham. There is also a cattle-fair on the 6th of May. The market is held on Friday. The ancient custom of ridi/iff t lie fair is occasionally observed by the tenants of Major-General Wyndham, on the Sth of June. Some of the steps of the mar- ket-cross are yet remaining in the street. Charities. The School. — This school was founded by Richard Brookbank, who endowed it with the interest of 160/. It subsequently received an augmentation from Sir William Pennington. Both of these benefactions, however, have been 2 H 238 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. lost ; and the school has now no endowment. The present master is the Rev. Joseph Taylor, B.A., the assistant curate of the parish. There is a poor stock of 23/. belonging to this parish. Many benefactions were lost on the death of John, Lord Muncaster. Twelve penny loaves were distributed in the church, every Sun- day, to the poor of the parish, in pursuance of the will of one of his ancestors, Joseph Penning- ton, Esq. who died in 1641. This charity is now given in one loaf to one poor person, each Sun- day throughout the year : but the like bequest to the parish of Drigg has been discontinued. €t)f ??ari0l& of fJfflorfeinflton. HE parish of Workington contains the five townships of Workington, Winscales, Stainl)urn, Great Chfton, and Little Chfton. The two latter are not in the Ward of Allerdale above Dcrwent, but are included in the newly-formed Der- went Ward. This parish contains about nine square miles : it is bounded on the west by the Irish Sea; on the south, by Harrington ; on the east, by the Maron, which divides it from the parishes of Brigham and Dean, in Derwcnt Ward ; and on the north, by the Derwent, which divides it from the parish of Cammerton in the same Ward. The townships of Workington and Winscales have been enclo- sed in pursuance of an act of parliament passed in 1809. Allotments of land were made to the rector, to John Christian Curwen, Esq., as lord of the manor, and to the latter and 'J'homas I larrison, Esq. for a certain portion of tithes in Winscales. In 1812, an act passed to enclose the township of Stainburn, and in 1814 another for enclosing tliose of (ireat and Little Clifton. Under both these acts allotments of land were given in lieu of tithes. 2 11 2 240 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The Messrs Lysons state that of the inhabitants buried here, before the year 1816, about one in thirteen were aged from SO to S9 inclusive ; and about one in one hundred and sixteen were aged from 90 to 99 inclusive. This shews a remark- able contrast to the returns from other parishes in the county, as enumerated by them, {Magna Britannia, iv. p. xlvi.) ; although it presents a very favourable account of the salubrity of this parish when compared with the general average proportion of those who attain the age of 80, which is said to be only one in thirty-two ; and in Lon- don, one in forty. There is a considerable salmon-fishery in the Derwent, belonging the Earl of Lonsdale, which extends from Workington harbour to Bassen- thwaite lake. Henry Curwen, Esq., of Working- ton-hall, has the draught at the mouth of the harbour and to the Merchant's Quay. The cause between the Earl of Lonsdale and Mr. Curwen, respecting the right of fishing in the Derwent, was tried at Cadisle assizes, in the year 1807, and was finally determined in favour of his lord- ship. A correspondent in Hutchinson's Cum- berland gives the following curious account of salmon-hunling. " The salmon hunter is armed with a spear of three points, barbed, having a shaft fifteen feet in length. When the fish is left by the tide, intercepted by shallows, or sand banks, near the mouth of the river, or at any inlets on the shore, where the water remains from one foot to four feet in depth, or when their passage is obstructed by nets, they shew where they lie by the agitation of the pool : when my horse is going at a swift trot, or a moderate gal- PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 241 lop, belly deep in the water, I make ready my spear with both hands, and at the same tune hold the bridle : when 1 overtake the salmon, I let go one hand, and with the other strike with the spear, and seldom miss my stroke, but kill mv fish ; then with a turn of my hand I raise the salmon to the surface of the water, turn my horse's head the readiest way to shore, and so run the salmon on to dry land without dismount- ing. In the fishery I am establishing at Work- ington, in the proper season, by different modes, I can kill, one day with another, one hundred salmon a day ; methods of my own invention I intend to put in practice, which never were practised before in any part of the world ; I have tried them, and they answer, and when known, they may become a public good. I can take the fish up at sea in ten fathom water. A man, in the ordinary way of salmon hunting, well mounted, may kill forty or fifty in a day ; ten salmon is not a despicable day's work for a man and a horse. My father was the first man, I ever heard of, who could kill salmon on horseback." Camden mentions Workington as being "famous for the salmon fishery"; and Mr. Thomas Denton, writing about 1688, says, "the famous salmon fishing here (mentioned in Camden) is worth 300/. per annum ; three hundred of those great fishes having been frequently taken at a draught." The fish have not been so plentiful of late years; the fishery is now worth only about one-third of what it was formerly. . Good durable stone for building is quarried about a mile from the town, and limestone is plentiful at a distance of two miles. But tlie 242 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. principal mineral is coal, on which the prosperity of the town has hitherto depended. The collieries on the estate of the Earl of Lonsdale have not been worked for half a century. About the year 1792 there were nine pits in this parish belonging to John Christian Curwen, Esq. M.P., and five to Mr. Walker, as agent to the trustees of Anthony Bacon, Esq. INI. P. of London. The daily ship- ments averaged about 150 waggons each day; two-thirds of which were shipped by Mr. Curwen; each waggon containing three English tons, charged to the owner of the vessel ten shillings and sixpence. The pits were described as "from forty to ninety fathoms in depth, having generally two or three workable bands ; the first, three feet ; the second, four feet ; and the third from ten to eleven feet : the roofs of the two former vary ; that of the main coal is of the finest white free-stone, generally twenty yards in thick- ness." Mr. Curwen had then recently erected six steam-engines, which were employed in wind- ing up coals and pumping water ; and the number of persons employed was between 500 and GOO. For the five years ending with 1S13, the aver- age of the annual exports from the Workington collieries belonging to Mr. Curwen was about 28,000 waggon-loads. About the year 1S16, Mr. Curwen had only four pits in working, in which about 400 persons were employed. Ten years later, 200,000 tons were annually shipped from the collieries of Mr. Curwen, Mr. John Flet- cher, and Mr. Thomas Westray. In the year 1S37, there were 15,734 waggon- loads (each containing 48 cwt.) shipped at Workington from the coal mines of Henry Cur- PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 243 wen, Esq. In that year the workhigs in three of the mines were suspended in consequence of an irruption of the sea. Since that period new borings have been made. In the fields between ^^"orkington and Harring- ton, about a mile from tlie former town, is an . ancient roofless building, generally known as the Old Chapel, and called by mariners Hoxv Michael. Pennant mentions having noticed " on an emi- nence near the sea, a small tower, called Holme- Chapel, said to have been built as a watch-tower, to mark the motions of the Scots in their naval inroads :" but it is much more probable that it has been, as its name imports, the chantry chapel which was granted (with some land) by Queen Elizabeth, in the 17th year of her reign, to Per- cival Gunson and John Soukey, and described as " three acres of land called Chapel Flatt, in Workington, and also one chapel, togetiier with one acre of land there." There is a tradition that the sea formerly flowed round this building. The masonry is rude : the ground floor is arched ; and a narrow winding staircase, sufficient only for the passage of one person, leads to the upper floor. The windows are narrow loopholes, excepting two on the land side, which are of larger dimen- sion, but destitute of all ornament. 'J'he building is useful to mariners as a land-mark ; from its conspicuous situation on a high land near the shore it forms a prominent object along the coast. Workington Hall. Workington Hall, the seat of Henry Curwen, Esq., is situated on the summit of a wooded 244 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. acclivity overlooking the Derwent and the Irish Sea. The old mansion, of which there are scarcely any traces, was castellated pursuant to the royal licence, granted by Richard II. in 1379, to Sir Gilbert de Culwen.* Camden speaks of Work- ington as "the seat of the antient knightly family of the Curwens, who derive their descent from Gospatric earl of Northumberland, and took their surname by agi'eement from Culwen, a family of Galloway, whose heir they married. They have a noble mansion like a castle, and from them, if I may be allowed to mention it without the im- putation of vanity, I derive my descent by the mother's side." Mr. Gough adds: — "the mansion- house is a large quadrangular building, which still bears marks of great antiquity, notwithstand- ing various alterations and improvements, which have been made during the last thirty years. The walls are so remarkably thick, that they •were able, a few years since, in making some im- provements, to excavate a passage sufficiently wide lengthways through one of the walls, leaving a proper thickness on each side of the passage, to answer every purpose of strength." Mary, Queen of Scots, landed at a short distance from the hall, on Sunday, May 16, 1568, and was hospitably entertained here by Sir Henry Curwen, until she took her departure for Cocker- mouth on her route to Carlisle. On the following day she wrote a letter (in French) to Queen Elizabeth, of which a translation is given in the subjoined note.f Mr. Gough, in his additions to • Pat. Rot. 3 Richard II.— Lysons. t MADAM, MY GOOD SISTER, I BELiEVB you are not ignorant, how long certain of my subjeets, who PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 245 Camden, says, " the chamber in which she slept from the least of my kingdom I have raised to be the first, have taken upon themselves to involve mc in trouble, and to do what it appears they had iu view from the first. You know how they purposed to seize me and the late King my husband, from which attempt it pleased God to protect us, aud to permit us to expel them from the country, where, at your request, I again, afterwards, received them ; though, on then: return, they committed another crime, that of holding me a prisoner, and kUhng in my presence a ser^-ant of mine, I being at the time iu a state of preg- nancy It again pleased God, that I shouldsave myself from Ihcit hands ; and. as above said, I not only pardoned them, but even received them into favour. They, however, not yet satUfied with so many acts of kind- ness, have, on the contrary, in spite of their promises, devised, favoured, subscribed to, and aided in a crime, for the purpose of charging it falsely upon me, as I hope fully to make you understand. They have under thU pretence arrayed themselves against me, accusing me of bemg ill advised, and pretending a desire to see me deUvcred from bad counsels, m order to point out to me the things that required reformation. I, fcelmg myself innoeent.anddesiroustoavoid.hcsheddingofblood,plaeed myself in their hands, wishing to reform what was ambs. They immediately seized and imprisoned me. When I upbraided them with a breach of their promise, and requested to be informed why I was thus treated, they all absented themselves. I demanded to be heard in Council, which was refused mc. In short, they have kept me without any servants, except two women, a cook, and a surgeon; and they have threatened to kUl me, if I did not sign an abdication to my Crown, which the fear of immediate death caused me to do. as I have since proved before the whole nobUity. of which I hoi.c to afford you evidence. After this they again laid hold of me; and they have accused, and proceeded orainot me in Parliament, without saying why. and without hearing me; forbidding at the same time, every advocate to plead for me; and compelling .he rest to acquiesce in theirunjust usurpation of my rights, tJiey have robbed me of every thing I had iu the world; never permiUmg me either to write, or to speak, in order that I might not contradict their false inventions. ■ At last it pleased God to deliver me, when they thought oputtmg me to death that they might make more sure of their power, though I re- peatedly oflered to answer any thing they had to say to me. and to join Lm in the punishment of those who should be gtiilty of any crmio. In Ji I 246 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. at Workington-liall is still called the Queen's chamber." A detail of the movements of Queen short, it pleased God to deliver me, to the great content of all my suhjects. except Murray, Morton, the Humes, Glencarne, Mar, and Semple, to ■whom, after that my whole nobility was come from all parts, I sent to say, that notwithstanding their ingratitude and unjust cruelty employed against me, I was willing to invite them to return to their duty, and to offer them security of their lives and estates, and to hold a Parliament for the pur- pose of reforming every thing. I sent twice. They seized and imprisoned my messengers, ar-d made proclamation declaring all those persons trai- tors who assisted me, and were guilty of this odious crime. I demanded that they should name one of them, and that I would give him up, and begged them at the same time to deliver to me such as should be named to them. They seized upon my officer, and my proclamation. I sent to demand a safe conduct for my Lord Boyd, in order to treat of an accom- modation, not wishing, as far as I might be concerned, for any effusion of blood. They refused, saying that those who had not been true to their Regent, and to my son, whom they denominate King, should leave me, and put themselves at their disposal : a thing at which the whole nobility was greatly offended. Seeing therefore that they were only a few individuals, and that my nobility were more attached to me than ever, I was in hope that, in the course of time, and under your favour, they would gi-adually be reduced; and seeing that they said they would cither retake me, or all die, I pro- ceeded toward Dumbarton, passing at the distance of two miles from tliem; my nobility accompanying me, marching in order of battle between them and me : which they seeing, sallied forth, and came to cut off my way and take me. My people seeing this, and moved by that extreme malice of my enemies, with a view to check their progress, encountered them without order, so that, though they were twice theii' number, their sud- den advance caused to them so great a disadvantage that God has per- mitted them to be discomfited, and several killed and taken ; some of them were cruelly killed, when taken on their retreat. The pursuit was immediately interrupted, in order to take me on the way to Dumbarton ; they stationed people in every direction, either to kill, or take me. But God, through his infinite goodness, has preserved me ; and I escaped to my Lord Herris's, who as well as other gentlemen have come with mc into your country, being assured that hearing of the cruelty of my enemies, and how they have treated me, you will, conformably to your kind dis- PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 247 Mary in Cumberland is subjoined in the follow- ing note.* position and the confidence 1 have in you, not only receive me for the safety of my life, but also aid and assist me in my just quarrel ; and I shaU soUcit other Princes to do the same. I entreat you to send to fetch me as soon as you possibly can, for I am in a pitiable condition not only for a Queen, but for a gentlewoman ; for I have nothing in the world but what I had on my person when I made my escape, travelling sixty miles across the country the first day, and not havingsince ever ventured to proceed except in the night, as I hope to declare before you if it pleases you to have pity, as I trust you will, upon my extreme misfortune ; of which I wUl forbear complaining, in order not to importune you, and to pray God that he may give to you a happy state of health and long Ufe, and to me patience, and that consolation which I expect to receive from You, to whom I present my humble commendaUons. From Workington. the I a). Your most faithful and affectionate good sister and cousin, and escaped prisoner, MARY, B. Cotton. MS.^ElUs's Original Utters. • Afler the disastrous battle of Langside, in 15G3, Mary, Queen of Scots, attended by the Lord Herrics, and a small retinue of tried friends, Bed from the scene of battle. Lord Herries advised her Majesty to saU for France, where she had many relations on whose kindness she might rely. But' Mary was unwilling to submit to the humUiation of appearing as a fugitive where she had formerly shone in the splendour of majesty ; and she now indulged the hope that Elizabeth's animosity had given place to kinder feelings. She therefore resolved to enter England, and throw herself on the generosity of her rival. To this, Lord Herrics. and her other attendants, liad the strongest objections ; but, notwith- standing their remonstrances, she desired his lordship to write to the Lord Warden at Carlisle, making enquiry if she would be received into that city. Her impatience would not allow her to wait for a reply ; and soon after the letter was despatched to Carlisle, Mary, and her train of about twenty persons, embarked in a small fisUing-boat, on Sunday, May 16, and landed the sam.: day at Workington. She thence proceed- ed to Cockermouth, where she was received by Henry Fletcher, Esq. When her letter arrived at Carlisle, the Lord Warden was from home, having appointed as his deputy. Mr. (afterwards Sir Richard) Lowlher. 2 I 2 248 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Mr. Sandford* gives the following account of the hall, written about the year 1676 : — "A fair parks of fallow dear there, adjoining to the de- mesne lands of Workington, a very fair large village, and fair haven, but not so much now frequented with ships, the coleyery being decay- ed thereabout ; and a very fair church and par- sonage of 220/. per annum, and one Mr. INIadison now ther pastor. And a very fair mansion-house and pallace-like ; a court of above 60 yards long, and 40 yards broad, built round about ; garreted turret-wise, and toores [to\vers] in the corner ; a gate-house, and most wainscot and gallery roomes; and the brave prospect of seas and ships almost to the house, the tides flowing up. Brave orchards, gardens, dove-coats, and woods and grounds in the bank about, and brave corn-fields and meadows below, as like as Chelsay fields. And now the habitation of a brave yong Sq. his father Monsir Edward Curwen, and his mother the grand-child of Sir Michael Wharton o'th' M'okls in Yorkshire. " Now let me tell you the family and pedegi'ee of this ancient great house [of] Chivilirs of Work- ington for five or six descents : my owne great- great-grandmother being either sister or daughter to Sir Tho: Curwen, Kt. in Henry the eight's time at and went up with his men to that King Henry S at the disso- lution of Abbeys. And the King said to him, "Curwen why doth thee begg none of thes Abbeys. I wold gratifie the some way," Quoth the other, Mary remained at Cockermouth until Mr. Lowtherhad assembled a body of the gentry to escort her to the castle of Carlisle, in a manner becoming her high birth. * MS, Dean and Chapter Library, Carlisle. PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 249 "I thank you." He afterwards said, "he wold desire of him the Abbie of Ffurneis (nye unto hira) for 20 one years." Says the King, " Take it for " Quoth the other, " It is long enough, for you'le set them up againe in time." But they n^t likely to be set up againe. This Sir Tho : Curwen sent Mr. Preston, who had married his daughter, to renew the lease for him ; and he it in his own name. Which when his father-in-law questioned : quoth jNIr. Preston, " You shall have it as long as you live ; and I think I may as well have it with your daughter as an other." I think this Sir Ilarry Curwen's wife was Fairfax, York. " Then comes his sone and heir, old Sir Henry Curwen, Kt. and heir of his gallantry, and with Sir Symond Musgrave wear both knighted at the progress of an English army into Scotland, and brought away with him the iron-gate of a tower Carlaverick castle, the house of Lord INIaxwell, and [it] is now the gate of a tower dower at \Vorkington. " Then comes his sone, Sir Nicolas Curwen, married Sir Symond Musgrave daughter, and Monsir Christopher ]N[usgrave marries his sister, the grandmother of the now noble Sir Philip Mus- grave, governor of the Carlisle castle, and citie and garrison there, and protects the contry from moss-troopers. " Then comes Sir Henry Curwen, p'lament man for the county, and Patricius Curwen, his sone and heir, and colonell in the late Royal ar- mie and his brother. Cap. Eldred Curwen, father of the now Monsir Curwen, in minority. Lord of Workington." 250 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Mr. Denton, who wrote at about the same period, says, " I do not know any one seat in all Britain so commodiously situated for beauty, plenty, and pleasure, as this is. The demesne breeds the largest cattle and sheep in all the country. The famous salmon fishing here (men- tioned in Camden,) is worth 300/. per annum, three hundred of those gi-eat fishes having been frequently taken at a draught. They are like- wise plentifully stored here with very good sea fish and fowl, and here is a large rabbit-warren, worth 20/. a year, besides what serves the house, and a great dove-cote, stored with a huge flight of pigeons ; a salt pan and colliery, worth 20/. per annum, within the demesne." The hall was almost entirely rebuilt by John Christian Curwen, Esq. M.P. (father of the pre- sent lord of the manor, Henry Curwen, Esq.) from designs by Mr. Carr, of York, when the grounds were extended and improved by Mr. VVhite, of Retford. It stands near the edge of the park, and is approached through a gateway, on each pillar of which is a unicorn's head — the crest of the Curwens. The building (as already stated) is quadrangular, with battlemented para- pets ; the principal entrance is in the south-west front, where a gateway opens into a court-yard. Over the entrance-door is a shield bearing the arms of Curwen with quarterings: it has the date 1665. The Q//ee>i's hed-cliamber (see page 245) retains no appearance of antiquity. PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 251 CuRWEN OF Workington-Hall.* jirms: — Argent, fretty gules, a chief azure. Crest: — A unicorn's head erased argent, armed or. Motto : — Sije rCestoy. " The antient knightly family of the Curwens," says Cam- den, " derive their descent from Gospatric, Earl of Northumberland, and took their surname by agreement from Cuhven, a family of Galloway, whose heir they married. They have here a noble mansion like a castle, and from them, if I may be allowed to mention it without the imputation of vanity, I derive my descent by the mother's side." Ivo de Talebois, or Talboys, first lord of the barony of Kendal, brother of Fulk, carl of Anjou and king of Terusa- lera, espoused Elgiva, daughter of our Saxon uunarch Ethelred, and was lather of Eldred or Ethelred, second feudal lord of Kendal, who married Adgitha, aud was succeded by his son, Ketel, third Baron of Kendal. He married Christiana, as appears by his grant of the church of Morland to the abbey of St. Mary's in York, to which she was a witness. By her he had issue, Gilbert, who succeeded to the barony of Kendal, whose son, William, according to Dugdale, from being gover- nor of the castle of Lancaster, assumed the sur- name of Lancaster. From him descended John do Lancaster, summoned to parliament as a baron in 1299. Orme, bis successor. William. He received from William de Meschines agrant of Work- ington, Salter, Kelton, and Stockhow. He gave the parish- church of Workington, with two carucates of land and a mill there, to the Abbey of St. Mary, at York. Orme, second son, wedded Gunilda, sister of Waldieve, first lord of Allerdale, (see p. 2,) son of Gospatric, Earl of * This pedigree is chiefly compiled from Burke's Commoners and NicoUon and Bum. 252 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Dunbar, and acquiring by grant from the said Waldieve the manor of Seaton, took up his abode there. By the same conveyance he had also the towns of Camberton, Craiksothen, and Flemingby. Mr. John Denton says, the walls and ruins of the mansion-house at Seaton were visible in his time. Gospatric, son and heir of Orme, received from Alan, second Lord of Allerdale (his cousin-gerraan) High Ireby, which remained in a younger branch of the Curwens, until it terminated in heiresses. Gospatric received the manors of Workington and Lamphigh, from his cousin-german, William de Lancaster, in exchange for Middleton, co. West- morland ; in which exchange, the said William reserved to himself and his heirs a yearly rent of Ct^. at Carlisle fair, or a pair of gilt spurs, and bound Gospatric and his heirs to do homage, and to discharge his foreign service for the same, to the barony or castle of Egremont. He gave two parts of the fishing in Derwent to the abbey of Holme Cultram, with the appendices; except \\'aytcroft, which he gave to the prior of Carlisle. John, then prior of Carlisle, regranted Waytcroft to Thomas, son of Gospatric, and his heirs, to be holden of the priory freely, paying yearly 7s. rent at Pentecost and Martin- mas. He had issue, Thomas, Gilbert, Adam, Orme, and Alex- ander. Thomas, son and heir, succeeded his father in the inheri- tance. He received a grant of the great lordship of Culwen in Galloway; and granted Lamplugh to Robert dc Lamplugh and his heirs, to be holden by the yearly presentation of a pair of gilt spurs. He died 7th December, 1 152, and was buried in the abbey of Shap, co. Westmorland, to w Inch he had been a benefactor. His issue were Thomas, who married Joan, daiighter of Robert de Veteripont, but died in the life-time of his father, leaving an only daughter who married Harrington, of Harrington, Patric, his successor. Alan, who acquired by gift of his brother Patric, lands of Camnierton, and thence deriving their surname, the Cammertons descend from him. To his second son, Patric, he had given, during the life of his eldest son, the lordship of Culwen, and the said Patric, assuming his surname therefrom, became, Patric de Culwen : his elder brother dying subsequently, PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 253 without male issue, he succeeded to the entire estate, and was thenceforward designated " Patric de Culwea of Work- ington." He was succeeded by his eldest son, Thomas do CuUven, of Workington, who died 5. p. and was succeeded by his brother, Gilbert de Culwen, of Workington, who left by his wife Editha, a son and heir, Gilbert de Culwen, of Workington, who died in the 3rd Edward III., and was succeeded by his son, Sir Gilbert de CuUven, knight of the shire in the 47th, 48th, and 50th, of Edward 111.* Sir Gilbert de Culwen. son and heir, was knight of the shire in the 5lh Richard II., and died about two years aftcr.f Sir Christorher de Culwen, son and heir of Sir Gilbert, represented the county in the 2nd Henry V and in the 2nd, 3rd Cth, and 9lh Henry VI. He was sherifl of Cumberland in the 2nd, and Gth, and again in the 12lh Henry \I by the name of Culwen, and in the Cih of the said king by the name of Curwen, to which last name the family hath ever since adhered. Sir Christopher, (with Sir IhomasDacre ol biUes- land and Sir William F itz-hugh, knts.,) was commissioned bv licnrv VI. A-U- 1 l-^-' ^^ ^''^'^ ^'^'^ '"''''^ °^ ^ "" wardens of the west marches for the observance of the truce conclud- ed with the king of the Scots. Sir Thomas Curwen, son and heir, represented the county in the 13lh, 2nth, 27th, and 38th Henry VI., and died in the 3rd Edward IV. Sir Christopher Curwen, son and heir, died in the 7th Henry VII. Sir Thomas Curwen, son and heir, died in the 34th Henry VIII • in which year, on an inquisition of knights fees m Cumberland, it is found, that Thomas Curwen, knight, held • In the 49lh Edward III. John de Culwen was presented to the rectory of Newbiggin, co. Westmorland, which he soon after exchanged fol the vicarage of Bromfield. t Nicolson and Burn. Burke, however, supposes they were the same person. 2 K 254 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. the manor of Workington of the king by knights' service, as of his castle of Egremont; viz. by the service of one knight's fee, 45s. 3d. cornago, 4s. seawakc, and puture of two Serjeants. He held at the same time the manor of Thornthwaite, and one third of the manor of Bothill, and the manors of Seaton and Camerton, and divers tenements in Gilcrouse, Great Broughton, and Dereham. He appears in the list of the gentry of the county, who ■were called out by Sir Thomas Wharton, in 1543, " on the service of the Border" when he was to furnish " horse at his pleasure." He had issue, Henri/. Lucy, married to Sir John Lowthcr. A daughter, married to .... Preston. Sir Henry Curwen, son and heir, knight of the shire 6th Edward VI. and 1st Elizabeth, (see page 249.) He was twice married: firstly, to Mary, daughter of Sir Nicholas Fairfax, by whom he had issue, Nicholas, his successor ; and, secondly, to Jane Crosby, by whom he had George, ob. n.p. Thomas,* who left, with two younger sons, Darcy, who had (with four other sons, who died without issue) Henry. Eldred, who also succeeded to the estate. Sir Henry had the honor of receiving at his mansion-house Mary, Queen of Scots, May 16, 1568, when she landed at Workiugtouf on her way to Carlisle (see page 244). He died • This is probably lie who lies buried in the church of Ponsonby, where there is a monument to his memory. t The Earl of Northumberland procured from the council of York, an order to " the SherifTe, Justices of Peace, and gentlemen of our countyc of Cumberland, and to everie of them," to the following tenor : — " By the Queue. — Trustie and wel beloved, we grete you well. And for as muche as we be informed that our sister, the Scotishe Quenc, is arryved within our realme, at Wyrkington, in our county of Cumberland, within the lordship and segnory of our right trustie and right wel beloved cosyn, the Earl of Northumberland ; who hathe alreadie sent certen geutlemen honorablie to see to her enterteynment and safe keping in this our realm, uatill our pleasure shal be fiuther knowen. This is, therefore, PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 255 in the 39th Elizabeth, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir Nicholas Curwen, M.P. for Cumberland, who married, firstly, Anno, daughter of Sir Simon Musgravo, of Edenhall, Bart, (by whom he had co issue); and, secondly, Elizabeth, daughter of Judge Carus. He died in the 2nd James I., and was succeeded by his son and heir. Sir Henry Curwen, knight of the shire in the 18th James I who died in lho21stof that reign. He married Catherme, daughter and co-heircss of Sir John Dalstou, by whom he had issue, Patrlchts, his heir. Thomas, who succeeded his elder brother. Sir Henry married, secondly, Margaret, daughter of .... Wharton, by whom he had issue, Eldrcd, who succeeded Thomas Curwen, Esq. Sir Patricius Curwen, Baronet, eldest son and heir of Sir Henry represented the county in parliament in several par- liaments in the reigns of Charles 1., and Charles II. He was created a baronet in 1626. He married , but dying without issue, in 1664, the title became extinct, while the estates devolved upon his brother, Thomas Curwen, Esq. who also died without issue, in the 25th Charles II. when the estates passed to his half-brother, Eldrcd Curwen, Esq. who died in the 26th Charles II. Henry Curwen, Esq. son and heir, dying without issue, 12th George I. the estate and representation reverted to his cousin, Henry Curwen, Esq., eldest surviving son of Darcy, son of Thomas, son of Sir Henry Curwen, by his second wile, to wil and commando you and cvcric of you, as you shaltc appoyntcd by our sayd cousin, the Earl of Northumb.-rhmd, toschcrandliir companyo well and honorably used, as to evcrie of them appcrtcyncthe; and also to SCO them in safctye, that they, nor any of them, cskapc from you, un- tai you shall have knowledge of our further pleasure therein. "Wherof «c pray you not to fayle, as we speriallye trustc you, and a a yo will answer to the conlrar>' at your periUcs. Given under our signet. at our citic of Yorke, the xixlh daye of Mayo, the tenthc ycaro of our reign."— Sir C. Sharpe'i Memorials of the Rebellion. 2 K 2 256 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Jane Crosby. He died without issue in the 13th George I. and was succeeded by his brother, Eldred Curwen, Esq. M.P. for Cockermouth, in the 7th George II. and dying in the 18th of the same reign, was succeeded by his son, Henry Curwen, Esq. M.P. for the city of Carlisle in 1762; and for the county of Cumberland in 1768. He married Isabella, daughter of William Gale, Esq. of Whitehaven, by whom he had an only daughter, Isabella (born 1765), who married John Christian, Esq. of Unerigg Hall,* and conveying to him the family estates, he assumed, in 1790, their surname and arms, and thus became John Christian-Curwen, Esq., who had previously been married to Miss Taubman, of the Isle of Man, by whom he had issue, John Christian, Esq. of Unerigg Hall, one of the Dempsters of that island. By the heiress of the Curwens (his second wife) he had issue, Henry, of whom hereafter, William, in holy orders, rector of Harrington, 1817-1823. Edward, of Belle Grange, co. Lancaster. John, in holy orders, rector of Harrington, 1823 to 1840, in which year he died. Bridget, married to Charles Walker, Esq. of Ashford court, Salop. Christiana-Frances, of Uppington, Salop. Mr. Curwen served the office of high-sheriff for Cumber- land in 1784. In 1786, he was returned to parliament for Carlisle ; and he continued to represent that city in several parliaments. He was subsequently M.P. for the county, and so remained until his decease. " Mr. Curwen acquired distinction by his rural pursuits ; and as a practical farmer introduced numerous valuable improvements, under his own immediate superintendence, which gave a novel direction to the business of the agriculturist." Mr. Curwen was the author of " Observations on the state of Ireland, principally directed to its Agriculture and Rural Population, &c." 2 vols. Svo. 1818. He died on the 9th December, 1828, and was succeeded • A pedigree of the Chrislians of Unerigg-hall will be given in a eubse- qnent volume. PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 257 in his own estates by his eldest son, John Christian, Esq. and in those of the Curwens, by his second son, Henry Curwen, Esq. who was born 5th December, 1783. On the Uth October, 1804, he married Jane, daughter of Edward Stanley, Esq. of Whitehaven, by whom he had issue, John. Edward Stanley, formerly of the 14th Dragoons, married 22nd January, 1833, Frances, daughter of Edward Jesse, Esq. of Hampton Court, Middlesex, and has issue. Henry, in holy orders, rector of Workington, married to Dora, daughter of Major General Goidie, and has issue. Charles. William Blamire. Isabella, married to the Rev. John Wordsworth, M.A. rector of Plumbland, and vicar of Brigham. Julia. Jane. Mr. Curwen succeeded to the estates on the decease of his father, 9lh December, 18'28. He is in the commission of the peace for Cumberland, and filled the office of high-sheriff of the county in 1834. The Town of Workington. Workington is a considerable market-town and sea-port, at tlie mouth of the Derwent, 307 miles from London, 8 from Whitehaven, and about 34 from Carlisle. Lcland says, its name is derived from the ^Vyrc, a rivulet that flows into the sea at Harrington : but this is not very probable, (although the ancient spelling, Wtjrek'mton, Wyrkenion, and JV//r/,i//<>/oii, may appear to sanction it) as the stream is upwards of two miles from the town. That author (who was chaplain to Henry VHI.) speaks of Workington, in his Itinerary, as a place " whereas shyppes cum to, wher ys a litle prety fyssher town, cawled Wyr- kenton, and ther is thechef howseof Sir Thomas 258 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Curwyn." It does not appear to have been a port of any consequence at this period, although, within a few years after, it was the place of dis- embarkation chosen by Mary Queen of Scots, (see page 244).* About the year 1770, according to Mr. Pennant, there were 97 vessels belonging to this port, some of which were of 250 tons burthen. About 1790, the number was 160, averaging about 130 tons. In April, 1810, 134 ships, tonnage, 18,911. In Jan- uary, 1822, 117 ships, tonnage, 18,094. In Jan- uary, 1828, 126 ships, tonnage, 19,930. The present number of vessels belonging to this port is 95, and the tonnage is estimated at 17,681. The river is navigable for vessels of 400 tons. The chief trade is in exporting coals to Ireland ; some of them trade to America and the Baltic. The imports are timber, bar iron, Szc. A considerable trade was formerly carried on • It appears from Hutchinson's Cumberland, vol. i. pp. 32, 33, that in 1566, there was only one vessel belonging to the county, of ten tons burthen ; and the mariners were tishermen, obtaining a hard subsistence from their hazardous emiiloyment. And that " at the latter end of the sixteenth century, even under the auspicious reign of Queen Elizabeth, ■when the naval power of this empire was advancing into a rivalship with all Europe, when trade and commerce, as from their native land, began to flourish in Britain, superior to the rest of the European states ; when our interior strength and power displayed itself to the astonishment of the world, this county still languished under its inauspicious star ; dis- tant from the capital, unhappy in its vicinage, its improvements were much behind those of the southern counties. At this period, in or about the year 1582, the Earl of Lincoln, being Lord High Admiral, caused an account to be taken of the ships and mariners within this county, •when all the vessels amounted only to twelve, and not one carried eighty tons. Mariners and fishermen made up the number 198, of whom many had never navigated a vessel superior to on open boat." PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 259 here in ship-building ; but this has suffered in the general depression felt by the town. Vessels of from 400 to 600 tons are built here for the merchants in Liverpool, &c. The manufactories are chiefly confined to those connected with the shipping, such as sail- cloth, cordage, &c., excepting a patent Leghorn hat manufactory, established by Messrs. Guy and Harrison, which affords employment to several hands. The town has been built without any reference to regularity of design ; it is a long, narrow, straggling place, extending about a mile in length. The markets (supposed to be of no ancient origin) are held on Wednesday and Saturday ; the former is the principal one, and is well sup- plied with corn, &c. The fiirs have fallen into disuse ; they were formerly holden on the Wed- nesday before Ascension Day, and on the 18th of October. The bridge over the Derwent, according to Mr. T. Denton, was rebuilt by the county in 1G50. This was replaced in 17G3, by one of three arches ; but so exceedingly narrow and dangerous, that after having been the source of numerous accidents, it was resolved to build another, a few yards below the site of the former. The new bridge is a noble structure of three elliptic arches, now building by Mr. Thomas Nelson, of Carlisle ; the works were commenced during the last year, and are now in a state of gi-eat forwardness. In 1810, acts of parliament were obtained for lighting and improving the tovvn and harbour of Workington. 260 allerdale ward, above derwent. The Church. The parish church of Workington is dedicated in honor of St. Michael. It was given by Ketel, (son of Eldred, son of Ivo,) third baron of Kendal, with two carucates of land and a mill there, to the abbey of St. Mary, at York. The latter appears to have been included in the grant made, by letters patent, by Queen Elizabeth, in the 5th year of her reign, to Percival Gunson, gentleman, of divers messuages, lands, tenements, and other hereditaments in Workington, and one messuage in Clifton, late belonging to that abbey. In 1534, the abbot of St. Mary's, York, presented to the rectory. In the following year it was thus entered in the Valor Ecclesiasticus of Henry VIII. WirTihjngton Rector' EccVie. Edmund' Whalley incumbens. Eector' p'dca. valet in £ s. d. Mansione cum gleba p. am. — Ix v Decim' granos. et feni xvj/. \ xs.lan'&agneU'xxvjs.viijd. # I £ ». d. pisciu. marinos. xls. minut'f ..... ^xxvj x et privat' decim' cum oh-/' "^ ^ lac' ut in libro paschal' V Ixxiijs. iu^d. In tot. J -^ Eepris' viz in Sinod'iijs.jf^.pcurac'.vjs.viijcZ. "i annual' pens' monaster'. > — Ixv j -_ See. Bege Ivs. iiijcC. ^ Et valet clare Xma. ps. inde After the dissolution of religious houses, Henry Vni. by letters-patent, bearing date, August 20, £ s. Ixv d. J £ s. d. xxiij i ii'j xlvj PARISH OF WORKINGTON, 2G1 in the 3Gth year of his vcign, (1544), granted to Robert Broc-kelsby and John Dyer, the advowson and riglit of i)atro'nage of the churches of Work- ington and Haverington ; to hold of the king in free socage by fealty only, and not in caju/e. On the 27th January, 1545, they conveyed by fine those two rectories to Thomas Dalston, ot the city of Carlisle, Esquire. In 1556, John Dalston, Esq. presented to the rectory of Workington. Henry Vlll. made a second grant of the ad- vowson of the church of Workington to John Bird, the first bishop of Chester, in exchange for divers tenqioralties ; and it was exchanged again, bv queen Mary, for Childwall and other places. But it having been granted before to Brockelsby and Dyer, it"\vas found that the bishop had no title. On the 1 2th of October, in the Gth of Eliza- beth, (1501) there was a licence of alienation to John Dalston, Esq., to convey the advowson and ri'dit of patronage of the churches of Workington and llaverinuton, parcel of the late monastery of St. Mary, York, to Henry Curwen, Esq.,m whose posterity thev have since remained. The living (which is the richest in the county) was valued in the King's Books at 23/. 5s. It continues to pav a pension of 21. 15s. 4rf. to St. Bees. The present curate is the Rev. Joseph Hetheriugton, M.A. Lisf of Rectors. Edmund Whalley, occurs 1535. Lowther, occurs c. 1642. 1662 Christopher Mattenson. 1679 John Bolton. 2 L 262 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. 1724 Robert Loxam. 1726 John Stanley.* 1753 William Thomas Addison, oh. 1792.-^ 1792 Edward Christian. 1803 Peter How, M.A. ob. ISSl.f 1831 Edward Stanley, M.A. ob. 1S34.+ 1834 John Wordsworth, M.A.§ 1837 Henry Curwen, B.A. The parish-church of Workington was rebuilt in 1770. It is a neat and handsome structure; but, unfortunately, and like too many others erected in this county during the last century, it is not in the Ecclesiastical or Pointed (miscalled Gothic) style of architecture. || It consists of a nave, with a low square tower which formed part of the old church ; and is lighted by two rows of windows with round heads. At the east end is a recess containing the altar-table, over which is a window of three liglits, the top filled with stain- ed glass. On the north side is a painting repre- senting the Descent from the Cross, and on the south another of the Ascension. There are two side galleries, and one at the west end containing an organ. • Son of John Stanley, Esq., of Ponsonby-hall. t See moniimenlal inscription. % Ob. 1831; Rector of I'lumbland, one of his Majesty's Justices of the Peace, and a deputy lieutenant for this county. See monumental in- scription, p. '2G1. § Rector of Plumbland, and vicar of Brigham. II This remark applies to many of the modem erections in this county ; including St. Cuthberl's, Carlisle; St. John's, Workington ; the three chapels in NVhitehaven, and the parish churches of Penrith, Wigton, and Cockermoulh : ot which some are handsomely fitted up, but apparently built with the intention of giving them the appearance of mceting-housei or assembly-roomi. PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 263 Under the tower is an altar-tomb on which rechne tlie effigies of a knight and his lady. He is in ])late arnionr ; his headrests on a cushion, placed against an animal, and there is another at his feet. An inscription runs round the top edge of the altar-tomb, but it has been defaced and rendered illegible by coats of paint. Previous to its last painting the date lllO was to be seen. On the front side are live recesses with cinque- foiled heads containing these shields : 1. Fretty and a cliief, Curxcen ; impaling Lozengy : 2, Ciinccn, impaling Fretty of six, .... 3, Cur- wen, without impalement. 4, Curzcen, impaling Six annulets, three, two, one, .... 5, Ciirxcoi, impaling Five fusils in fess, with a label of five points, The head of the lady reclines on a cushion supported by angels. Near this tomb is part of an ancient octagonal stone font. The pew of the Curwen family has some fine old carved work, apparently preserved from the former church. Tiie arms of Curwen occur twice ; in one place impaling on a fess two lions' heads between three St. Andrew's crosses. The tower contains six bells ; one of which bears the date 1775. On each side of the western door is ))laced a board : one commemorates Mr, Robert Jackson's bequest of tSOO/. ; the other, the bequest of a like sum by Jane Scott, widow.* On the east wall, south of the altar-table, is an elaborate monument of wliite marble, by Dunbar, with two figures representing Justice and Faith, and bearing this inscription : — • Sec particulars of both, al a subsequent page, under " Charities." 2 L 2 264 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Sacred to (he memory of the REVEREND EDWARD STANLEY, A.M. Hector of Workington and of Plumbland, one of his Majesty's Justices of the Peace, and a Deputy Lieutenant for this county. Bom 9th March, 1776, Died 5lh January 1831. He was a kind and benevolent Pastor, an upright, intelligent, and active magistrate, and a zealous promoter of every measure connected ■with the Tvelfaro of those amongst whom he resided. To mark the hig'i estimation in which he was held, and as a tribute of sincere respect to his memory, this memorial was erected by public subscription A. D. MDCCCXXXIV. Near the south door is a mural monument of ■white marble, with this inscription : — Sacred to the memory of THE REV. PETER HOW, A.M., and MARGARET hia wife. He was for more than 37 years The beloved and respected minister of this parish, first as curate, and afterwards as rector. He died at his son's house in the town of Shrewsbury, On the 18lh of July, 1^31, .iged 72. His dear Partner survived him but a few days, and died at the parsonage house in this town, on the 1st of August, 1831, aged 76. They are, it is humbly h.oped, reunited in a more blessed state of existence. PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 265 At the west end of the chuixh is a plain mural monument inscribed — In Memory of ELDRED CURWEN, ESQ., of Workington Hall, who died the 23rd of Januar}', 1745, Aged 53. Under the tower are the following inscriptions on mural tablets : — Within This church Lie the Bodies of JOHN and BILHAII SHERWEN. Bilhah Shcrwen was buried here April 14, 17G2, Aged 47 years. John Sherwcn January 19, 17C3, aged 55 years. To their Memory this monument •was gratefully inscribed A. D. 1818. Honour thy Fallier and thy Mother that thy days may be long in tho laud Thy God givcth thcc. Erected to the memory of CAPTN. MILIUM PONSONBY, of the Royal Navy, who departed this life, on the 21 October, 1815, Aged GO years. 266 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Sacred To the Memory of CATHERINA MARGARETTA MARIA The wife of JOHN BECK, ESQ. Comptroller of liis Majesty's Customs, Only daughter of Ihe late Rev. Bryan Allot, Rector of Buniliam in Norfolk, Neice to the Very Rev. Richard Allot, D.D., Dean of Raphoe in Ireland, and nearly related to David Kennedy, Esq. of Kirk-Michael House, in North Britain, and to the Earls of Cassilis and of Eglington. She died on the 23 February, 1812, After an illness of one hour only, without any previous indisposition. Aged 48 years. " Watch therefore for ye know not " W hat honv your Lord doth come." Her spotless life, -which was a real Ornament to her sex, was roplele with every virtue ■which could adorn the character of a tiue Christian. Also To the memory of JOHN BECK, Esq. ■who died the 22 day of December, 1S32, Aged 83 years. In Memory of WILLIAM FLASKET, Esq. who died on the 15 June, 1828, Aged 59 years. Sacred to the Memory of The Rev. WILLIAM TllO.MAS ADDISON, Rector of this Parish. His unicmitting attention during a space of 40 years PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 267 To all the important duties of liis sacred function, His pious zeal and spirited exertions (made more conspicuous by surrounding obstacles) In laising from unseemly ruin this House of God, Conspire much more than this Imperfect Tablet To speak his worth and consecrate his memory. He died January 11, 1792, in the G5 year of his age, deservedly lamented. His first wife, daughter of Eldued Curwen, Esq. died December, 1755. His second wife, MARIANNA daughter of Adam Craik, Esq. of Arbigland, Dumfriesshire, died December, 1759, His third wife, DOROTHY, daughter of Riciiaud Cookb, Esq. of Cammerton Hall, died 23 September, 1831, Aged 97 years. Erected in memory of Mr. JOHN HODGSON, Merchant, who died June 3, 1799, .32 78. And also In memory of ELIZABETH, his wife, who died July 23, 1754, iE:29. In the church-yard is a stone bearing this in- scription to the memory of the first minister of the Scotch church in this town : — In Memory of the REVD.Mn. Wm. THOMPSON, who with renewed diligence and great activity raised and formed a Society of Protestant Dissenters in Workington, collected funds, and built a Meeting «nd dwelling House, and exerted the cmiueut Talcnti 268 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. He was cndo-ncd vii'.h to the Glory of GOD ■with exemplary fidelity and Zeal, Forty years as tlieir Pastor. His modest wisdom, Extensive learning. Strict integrity, and Un.ifTcctcd Piety, rendered him the just object of Esteem and Love. lie died 24 March, 1782, Aged 73 years. Another has this inscription : — Sacred to the Memory of TuE Rev. JOHN SELKIRK, who was 46 years Minister of the Scotch Church, Workington, who departed this life, Jimc 11, 1829, In the 79lh year of his age. This Stone is erected by a few Friends who long enjoyed the benefit of his ministry, as a token of their afl'ccfion and grateful remembrance of his Unfeigned Piety, exemplary diligence, and unwearied exertions in the cause of GOD. Another stone, commemorating Joseph Glen- dinning, who was murdered in 1808, has these elegant lines — ■ Ye villains when this stone you see Remember th;it you murdered me. You bruised my head, you pierced my heart. Also my bowels did suffer part. St. John's Chapel. This chapel was erected in the year 1823, by the commissioners for building churches, and PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 2G9 affords a lamentable proof of modern degeneracy in church-building. — Built at the almost incredi- ble cost of 10,000/. its miserable masonry and unecclesiastical style of architecture afford a sad contrast to those appropriate edifices which the more correct taste of our ancestors erected for Divine worship. It has a Doric portico, closely resembling that of the church of St. Paul, Co- vent-garden, London, the entablature supported by four massy pillars. The chapel is calculated to accommodate IGOO hearers. The seats on the ground-floor are free, and the minister is paid by tlie rents of those in the galleries. The living is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the rector of the parish. In 1835, by an order in the Privy Coun- cil, the parish of ^^'orkington was ecclesiastically divided into two districts : one of which was as- signed to the mother-church, and the other to St. John's. List of Incumbents. 1823 John Curwen.* 1828 Joseph Simpson, B.A. 1831 Peter von Essen, B.A.f 1840 William Jackson, M.A. Chapels. There are in this town chapels belonging to the Independents, the Roman Catholics, the Church of Scotland, the Primitive Methodists^ and one for seamen. • Rector of Harrington and of Plumbland. f Rector of Uarrington. 2 M 270 allerdale ward, above derwent. Charities. The Gramynar School. — Sir Patricius Curwen, Bart, by ^vill, dated 13th December, 1664, be- queathed 10/. towards erecting a school house, and he thereby further gave and bequeathed the annual sum of 61. 6s. Sd. towards the maintenance of such master or masters as should be appointed by the ministers of Workington and Harrington, •with the consent of any two of the churchwardens of the former parish. The latter sum was a rent- charge upon his demesne of Workington.* A school-house was built upon the common, soon after the decease of Sir Patricius, by his widow and executrix. Thomas Curwen, Esq., his brother and succes- sor in the estates, by will, dated ISth December, 1672, granted the three closes or enclosures known as Colker close, Dobby INIiller's close, and JNIoor close, for the use of the master. In 1S03, John Christian Curwen, Esq., M.P. having at that time discovered, by reference to his title deeds, that Thomas Curwen, the devisor, had no power to devise the closes above-mention- ed, having been only tenant for life of that pro- perty, determined to apply the rents and profits thereof to some other charitable purpose, which he thought more advisable. He appointed, however, the Rev. Anthony DalzcU to the office of schoolmaster, then vacant, and agreed to give him a salary of 10/. 10.s. per annum. I'he closes above-mentioned contain 70 acres of land, and are worth 140/. per annum. • The commissioners for enquiring concerning charities say that it does not appear that this rent-charge left by Sir Patricius was CTer paid. PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 271 It appears that by deed of settlement, dated 29th September 1G12, and a fine levied thereon, Sh- Henry Cm wen settled the manor and estate of ^\'o^kmgton npon himself for life, with remain- der to his first and other sons in tail under this settlement. Sir Patricius Curwen, the eldest son of Sir Henry, became tenant in tail, and died without issue, leaving a brother, Thomas Curwen, who succeeded him. Sir Pairicius, therefore, had no power to change the inheritance. By deed of settlement, dated 2Gth February 1GG(), and a fine levied thereon, Thomas Curwen and l-:idred Curwen settled tlie said manor and estates on the said Thomas Curwen for life, with remainder to his first and other sons in tail ; and in default of issue, on the said Eldred Curwen, for life, with remainder to his first and other sons in tail. Thomas Curwen died without issue, and was succeeded by Eldred Curwen, who died, leaving a son, so that Thomas Curwen was only tenant for life, and had no power of devising the closes above mentioned. The site of the school-house, which was built upon the waste, appears never to have been con- veyed to any jierson, in trust, for the charity ; the soil, therefore, remained in the lord of the manor. In IS 13, the building was pulled down by ISIr. C^urwen, and a room in the town was appropriated by him for tlie purposes of a school. The waste has since l)een enclosed under an act of Parliament ; and the site of the school, with the adjoining land, has been set out and allotted by the commissioners.* * Report of the Commissionera. 2 M 2 272 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Sir Patricius Ciirwen's Charities. — Sir Patricius Curwen, Bart, left also to the poor of the parish, 5/. per annum,* charged upon his demesne at Workington : but this payment has not been made by his successors, for the reason assigned in the preceding account of the Grammar School. Scott's Charity. — Jane Scott, widow, by will dated 24th January, 1816, bequeathed 800/. stock, five per cents, to the Rev. Peter How, M.A. Benjamin Thompson, Robert Jackson, and Wil- liam Piele, on trust, to pay sixteen poor women 405. each, annually on new-year's day : all of whom are to be residents in the township of Workington. The remainder of the dividends, after payment of all expences, to be retained by the trustees as a compensation for their trouble : their number is to be always four ; one of whom must be the rector or resident minister of Workington, if a suitable person. On the death of any of the annuitants, the trustees to appoint another to fill up the vacancy. Kai/s Legacies. — John Kay, by will dated 11 th of February, 1806, amongst other things,bequeath- ed to the rector of ^^'orkington, 50 guineas, to be by him laid out in a handsome brass gilt chandelier, to be hung up in the middle aisle in the parish church of Workington. He also gave to twenty poor widows annually, in the township of Workington, on Christmas-day in each year for years after his decease, a fore-quarter of mutton, and a shilling loaf each ; and in the margin of the said will, opposite to the last-men- • He left also sums of money to be distributed to the poor of tie parish of Harrington, and to the poor of Cammcrton and Seaton. PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 273 tioned bequest, was written, " to be charged upon the lands." These legacies, however, have failed. — A decree in chancery, dated ISth February, 1 8 14, was made by several legatees and relations of the testator against his Majesty's attorney-general, the execu- trix of the testator, and otlier persons, when it was ordered, that it should be referred to the master. On the 1st November ISl 9, the master reported, that tlie personal estate of the testator had proved insufficient for the payment of the debts and legacies charged thereupon ; and that part of the testator's real estate had been sold, to supply the deficiency thereof. Jackson's Bequest. — Mr. Robert Jackson, who died 1th April, 182G, left by will 800/. the interest arising therefrom to be distributed by four trustees to sixteen poor women, in the sum of 40.v. each annually : the rector or resident-minister being one of the trustees. The original trustees, named in the will, are the Rev. Peter How, M.A., Joseph Pearson, ^Villiam Plaskett, and lulward Henry Hare. The funds of this charity have been di- minished ; — first, in 1830, by the conversion of the new 4 per cent, into the new 3^ per cent stock ; and secondly, by a decree in chancery, in a suit against the executors and trustees, which reduced the bequest to the sum of 430/. 3^. stock. The Lancaster'ian School. — This school was founded in 1808, by John Christian Curwen, Esq. M.P., and affords instruction to about 194 boys and 86 girls, each of whom pays \d. or \\d. per week, towards providing books. All necessary expenses arc paid by the family of the founder. A building, comprising rooms for an Infant 274 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. School, a School of Industry, &c. was erected in 1831, by Thomas Wilson, Esq. of this town. Over the entrance is the following inscription : — These Schools for the Education of the Children of the Poor in Religious and Useful Knowledge Avere erected from the bounty of a kind Providence by Thomas Wilson, 1831. Mr. Wilson has regularly conveyed the build- ing in trust, for the above purposes, to the clergy of the town, with the churchwardens and over- seers for the time being. On the east wall of the Infant School is a tablet inscribed as follows : — As a testimony of my approval Of the Infimt School and School of Industry In Guard Street, dedicated to charitable uses. It is my intention to remit the grotmd rent For the premises during my life To the charity, On being called upon by the Governors Annually for my receipt; And I trust my successors will continue to do the same. The Hall, Woikington. Henry Cukwen. December 11, 1831. In addition to these foundations and endow- ments, there are many other charitable societies and institutions, and Sunday schools, supported by voluntary contributions. Stainburn. Stainburn is a hamlet and township one mile east of Workington. The nanje is supposed to PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 275 be derived from stoney burn or beck. Waldieve, lord of AUerdale, son of Gospatric, Earl of Dun- bar, gave this whole vill, consisting of three carucates of land, to the abbey of St. Mary's at York, for the proper use of the cell of St. Bees. The prior of St. Bees built here a chapel or oratory. Afterwards Henry IV. presented one Robert Hunte to this as a free chapel in the gift of the crown. The abbot of St, Mary's, York, remonstrated, setting forth the above particulars : and the king, upon inquiry and trial, revoked this grant.* Clifton. The Chapelry of Clifton includes the two townships and villages of Great Clifton and Little Clifton. These townships form a manor, and were given by William de jNIeschines to Waldieve, son of Gospatric, Eavl of Dunbar ; and by the heiress of that family came to the Lucys ; from them to Benedict Eglesfield, who had a son Richard Eglesfield, whose daughter and heiress carried the same by marriage to Adam de Berdsey. He had a son Nicholas de Berdsey, who had a son ^\'illiam de Berdsey, which AVilliam in the 35 Henry VHL was found by inquisition to hold his messuage and vill of Clifton of the king as of the manor of Dean, by knight's service, rendering for the same 2s. \0d. cornage, and 17s. \(l free rent, and suit of court, homage, and witnesman in the five towns.f lie held Kirk Clifton, (or Great Clifton) by the service of 3s. 4f/. cornage, with suit of court, witnesman as aforesaid, and puture • Nicolson and Bum. t See page 2. 276 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. of the Serjeants.* By a daughter and coheir of the said WilHam these villages came to the Salk- elds of Whitehall, who sold them to Sir James Lowther, Bart., from whom they came to the present possessor, the Earl of Lonsdale. Great Clifton, or Kirk Clifton, in Derwent Ward, is an ancient village, 2^ miles east from Workington, " where it is said a market was for- merly held," and in support of the truth of which tradition the remains of an ancient cross are pointed out. Clifton-house, the mansion of Richard Watts, Esq., is near the village, situated on rising grounds which command an extensive prospect, the beauty of which is much enhanced by the meanderings of the Derwent. It has at present an exposed appearance, but this will be remedied in a few years, when the plantations around it have attained a fuller growth. Little Clifton is a village in Derwent Ward, 3| miles east of Workington, at the junction of the Maron with the Derwent. The Chapel was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty at 3/. per annum. In the year 1717, "it was certified that there was then no maintenance for a curate, or any divine service performed ; that formerly every family in the two hamlets, being about 40 in number, paid Gd. each to one that read prayers, and taught the children to read, and the rector gave 21. a year, and oflS- ciated there every sixth Sunday ; but that these payments had then ceased for about 40 years last past." The chapel is very picturesquely situated on * Nicolson and Buin. PARISH OF WORKINGTON. 277 the summit of a cliff overlooking the village. It is an ancient edifice, but has been much modern- ized by repairs and alterations. In the sixteenth and early part of the seventeenth century, marri- ages were solemnized in this chapel. The burial gi-ound was disused, and the walls were in a state of decay, from 1736 until 1S21, when Dr. Law, Bishop of Chester, consecrated an additional piece of ground. The living is a perpetual cura- cy, in the gift of the rector of Workington, and was returned to the commissioners for enquiring concerning ecclesiastical revenues as of the aver- age annual value of 89/. The present incumbent is the Rev. Anthony Dalzell, who was appointed in 1804. In 1814 an act of parliament passed for enclos- ing the townships of Great and Little Clifton, under which allotments of land were given in Ueu of tithes. 2 N ^f)c tfavi»fi of ii)on0onl)8 S bounded on the south, by the parish of Gosforth ; and on the north and west, by the Calder, ^ which divides it from the parish ' of St. Bridget's Beckermet. With ■ the single exception of Waber- ; thwaite, this is the least populous ■ parisli in the Ward. It extends : about four miles in length, from oast to west, and from north to south, one nule and a half " The air here is particularly pleasant and salubrious ; insomuch, that a neighbouring physician, eminent both for his practice and knowledge, calls this the INIont- pellier of Cumberland." Until the latter end of the last century this parish was not well wooded ; but it was greatly improved in this and in other respects by George Edward Stanley, Esq., who was high-sheriff of the county in 1774. The Rev. jNIatthew Hall, in his account of this parish, written for Hutchin- son's (?) Cumberland, says : — " This parish has been greatly improved within these twenty years, since Mr. Stanley took up his residence here, who is, himself, very skilful in agriculture ; and gives every encouragement to his farmers, to prosecute that plan of husbandry, whicli is most likely to turn out to their own profit and advan- PARISH OF POXSONBY. 279 tage ; by which means his rents are not only well and exactly paid, but he has the satisfaction of seeing his grounds in a high and improved state of cultivation, and his farmers in a happy and flourishing condition, several of whom, the last year, had from 500 to 1000 stooks of wheat each, on ground which, upon JNIr. Stanley's com- ing to the estate, was entirely covered with furze and broom." The tame gentleman, George Edward Stanley, Esq., father of the present lord of the manor, Edward Stanley, Esq., M.P., planted on his estate here " upwards of one hundred thousand of dif- ferent sorts of forest trees," — a noble legacy for his descendants, as in too many parts of the kingdom, " the axe is often heard, but the planter is seldom seen." The parish abounds with free-stone ; but it produces neither coal nor limestone, which are so plentiful in some of the adjoining parishes. " The scil, in general, is a hascl mould, but near the sea, a strong clay, and produces crops of wheat and other gram, inferior to few in the county." Mr. Ilousman says that about the latter end of the last century, lands here were let for about 155. per acre, on an average. Since that time they have been much improved, and are now let for about 23.s'. an acre. The Calder, which forms the northern and western boundary of the parish, is the only river; it is well supplied with salmon and trout. Mr. Stanley has a fishery at the mouth. This river, which flows near the picturesque ruins of Calder abbey, is remarkable for the beauty of the scenery presented by its wooded banks, while the 2 N 2 280 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT, stream itself is half hidden by the luxuriant foHage of the trees. The parish is divided into two quarters or con- stablewicks, Ponsonby and Calder. The tene- ments were "mostly either purchased or enfran- chised" by George Edward Stanley, Esq. Two or three tenements in the parish of Gosforth belong to the manor of Ponsonby. In 1792, there was only one pauper in the parish, — an aged woman, in her one hundredth year. On Infell, a hill in this parish, are vestiges of castrametation, supposed to have been a Roman camp : but as the ground has not been explored, no antiquities have been found to de- termine its origin. From the year 1723 to 1743, the number of baptisms in this parish was SO ; funerals, during the same time, 57 ; and 19 marriages. From 1771 to 1791, the baptisms were 78; funerals, 38; and marriages, 21. This parish was the seat of, and gave name to, the ancient family of Ponsonby, originally named Ponson, who, at a subsequent period, settled at Hale-hall, (see page 56, and a pedigree in the appendix.) The Manor. The manor of Ponsonby belonged, at a very early period, to the family of Ponson, afterwards called Ponsonby. Nicholas Stanleigh, lord of Austhwaite, " bought the manor and demesne of Ponsonby of Adam de Eskdale, as appeareth by deed, anno 11th of king Richard II., 13S8," since which time the manor has belonged to his family. PARISH OF PONSONBY. 281 through whom it has descended to the present lord, Edward Stanley, Esq., M.P. Stanley of Dalegarth and Ponsonby.* Arms: — Argent, on abend azure, cottiscd, vert, throe stags' heads cabossed, or; quartering the arms oi Ausihrcaite , Gules, two bars argent, in chief three mullets of six points pierced, or. Crest: — A stag's head argent, attired or, collared vert. Motto : — Sans changer. The family of Stanley is one of the most ancient in the kingdom, and occupies an eminent and conspicuous place in its history. Camden mentions them as having been of im- portance for at least half a century before the Conquest. This illustrious family is represented by the Stanleys of lloo- ton, CO. Chester, liaronets. One branch has furnished thir- teen Earls of Derby, of whom many have been knights of the most noble Order of the CJarter: the Stanleys of Cumber- land, andtheStanleysof Alderley park, co. Chester, Baronets, are also branches from the same stem, (see page 282). The Stanleys of Cumberland have been " located in the north for several centuries, and the most ancient of their estates in this county have descended through an unbroken succession of father and son over a period of not less than five hundred years, to the present proprietor." Henry Stanleigh deStoneley " lived about forty years before the Conquest, and for some years after." Henry do Stanleigh, son of Henry, is mentioned by Cam- den, as having large possessions confirmed to him by Henry HI. William do Stanleigh, son of the above Henry, was suc- ceeded by his son, William de Stanleigh, " who is stilcd milite" and had two sons, William and Adam. * A pedigree of this family, on parchmeut, with the armorial bearings of fanulics with whom they have intermarried, is preserved at Ponsonby Hall ; it bears the autographs of Sir William Dugdalo, and Edmund Knight, Norroy. 282 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Sir Adam de Stanloigh, the younger son, succeeded to his father's estates ; he was succeeded by his son, Sir Willinm de Stanleigh, \vbo was stiled, William deStan- leigh, in the county of Stafford, and of Stourton, in the county of Ciicster, ^wi furcsliire forcsta, or chief-ranger in the forest of Wirral, by grant dated 1 0th Edward II. 131C),and " there- upon assumed the armorial bearings since used by his de- scendants, — three stags' heads on a bend." He married Joan, eldest daughter and co-heiress of Sir Philip Baumville, lord of Stourton ; and by her had a son John, who succeeded hira. John Stanleigh, lord of Stanleigh, and of Stourton, married Mabil, daughter of Sir James Hansket, kuight, and had issue, Sir William, lord of Stanleigh and Stourton, 26th Edward III., 1322. He married Alice, daughter of Hugh Wassey, of Timperley, co. Chester, and had issue three sons: — 1. William, who succeeded his father in the lord- ships of Stanleigh and Stourton, ancestor of the Stanleys of Ilooton, Baronets, the representa- tives of the family. He married Margery, daughter and heiress of William Ilooton of Hooton. 2. Sir John, K.G., second son, married Isabel, daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas Lathom, Lord of Lathom. From him derives the noble family of the Earls of Derby. 3. Henry. John, ancestor of the Cumberland branch of this family. John Stanleigh, second son, purchased lands at Gres- withen (Greysoulhen), co. Cumberland, "and represented the city of Carlisle in parliament, 29th King Edward III."* His son and heir, John Stanleigh, of Greswilhcn, Esq., was living in the 33rd Edward III. He bought lands in Erableton and Brackenthwaite, co. Cumberland, as appears by a deed, dated A.D. 1335. Nicholas Stanleigh, of Greswithen, Esq., son and heir, married Constance, daughter and heiress of Thomas de Austhwaite, lord of Austhwaite, now Dalegarth, in the parish • There is some error here, as Thomaa Stanley occurs as a burgess for the city of Carlisle at that date. PARISH OF PONSONBY. 283 of Millom, by whom he became possessed of that manor, as appears by a deed, dated, A.D. 1345. He "bought the manor and demesne of Ponsonby of Adam de Eskdale, as appeareth by deed, anno 11th of King Richard II., 1388." lie was succeeded by his son, Thomas Stanleigh, lord of Austhwaite, called in records, Stanlaw, who represented the city of Carlisle in parliament, 25th Henry VI. Nicholas Stanleigh, lord of Austhwaite, son and heir, appears among the list of the gentry of the county returned by the commissioners, r2th Henry YI., 1433.* He was living in 1437. Thomis Stanley, of Dalcgartli, Esq., son and heir, mar- ried Ann, daughter of Sir Richard Iludlcston, of Millom castle, knight, by whom ho acquired certain lands called Hyton, as appears by deed, dated 38th Henry VI., 1437. William Stanley, of Dalogarth, Esq., son and heir, married Alice, daughter of Sir Richard Ducket, knight, and was living in the 17th Henry VII. He was succeeded by his son, Thomas Stanley, of Dalegarth,Esq., whomarried Margaret, third daughter of John Fleming, of Rydal, Esq., and had issue, John, his successor. Thomas, who was appointed master of the mint in 1570, and obtained from his father tlie ancient family estates of Grcswithcn, Emblcton, and Brackcnthwaite. He married Lady Mytf'ord, relict of Sir James Mytford, knight, by whom he Iiad an only daughter and heiress, Mary, who married tlie Hon. Sir Edward Herbert, second son of William, Earl of Pembroke, after- wards created Earl of I'owis. John Stanley, Esq., eldest son of the above Tiiomas, mar- ried Margaret, daughter of Thomas Senhousc, Esq., and was succeeded by his son, Thomas Stanley, Esq., who purchased the manor of Birkby, in the parish of Muncaster, from liis cousin-gcrman, the ♦ In the same list ajipears " Tho Stanley, Abbatis de Wederliill," (Wctheral.) 284 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Countess of Powis. He married Isabel, daughter of John Leake, of Edmonton, Esq. To this period the pedigree was certified by Edmund Kniglit, norroy king-at-arms. Edward Stanley, Esq., only son and heir, bought (from Sir Thomas Challoner) the tithes of Eskdale, Wasdale, and Wasdale-head, — three chapclries in St. Bees, on the disso- lution of the priory which gave name to the parish. He married Ann, daughter and co-heiress of Thomas Briggs, of Cawmire, co. Westmorland, Esq. John Stanley, Esq., his successor, was an active and zeal- ous niyalist,* and as such was heavily fined by the parliament ; but the penalty is said to have been subsequently mitigated. The following certificates, which are still preserved by his family, at Ponsonby-hall, are strongly indicative of the troubled times on which he fell. — L. S. Whereas it appeareth by certificate, under the hand of Mr. Lceck, dated January the 29th, 1648, that John Stanley of Dalegarlh, in the county of Cumberland, Esquire, hath com- pounded and paide in, and secured his fine, at the committee at Gold Smith's hall : these arc therefore to require you, on sight hereof, to forbear to ofl'er any violence to his person, or to any of iiis family, at his house at Dalegarth, in the county of Cumberland, or to take away any of his horses, or other things, they doing nothing prejudicial to the parlia- ment or army. — Given under my hand and seal the 1st of February, 1648. T. FAIRFAX. To all Officers and Souldiers under tny commajtd. L. S. Si.K quarterings. Whereas John Stanley of Dalegarth, in the county of Cuniberhind, Esquire, hath subscribed to his composition, and (laid and secured his fine, according to the direction of parliament : these are therefore to require and command you, to permit and suifer him and his servants, quietly to « It will scarcely be necessary to remind the reader of a member of another branch of this family — James, seventh Earl of Derby, who was beheaded fur hU loyalty, at BoUoa, A.D. iC51. PARISH OF PONSONBy, 285 pass into Dalegarlh abovcsaid, with their horses and swords, and to forbear to molest or trouble him, or any of his familie there ; without seizing or taking away any of his horses or other goods, or estate whatsoever ; and to permit and suffer him or any of his family, at any tyme, to pass to any place, about his or tlieir occasions, without offering any injury or violence to him or any of his family, either at Dale- garth, or in his or their travells, as you will answer your contempt at your utmost pcrills — Given under my hand and seal, this second of February, 1648. 0. CROMWELL. To all Officers and Souldiers, and all others, whom these may concern. Mr. Stanley purchased the manor of Rirker, in the parish of Millom, still holdeii by his family, and obtained a grant from the crown of a fair and weekly market at Havcnglass. He married, lirstly, Mary, daughter of Thomas Stanley, of Lee, CO. Sussex, Esq. ; and secondly, Dorothy, daughter of Henry Felherstonhaugh, of Fetherstonhaugh, co. Northum- berland, Esq. Edward Stanley, Esq., son and heir, was one of the gentle- men chosen by Charles IL to be invested with the projected Order of the Royal Oak. Mr. Stanley was high-sheriff of the county and proclaimed William IIL He married Isabel, eldest daughter of Thomas Curwen, of Sella Park, Esq. John Stanley, Esq., son and heir, bought the advowson of the rectory of Ponsonby, with the tithes and church-lands thereunto belonging, and valuable estates in that parish. On his marriage (A.D. 1689) he built (the old) Ponsonby Hall, whither ho removed from Dalegarlh, the ancient residence of his family. Mr. Stanley married Dorothy, one of the co- heiresses of Edward Holt, Esq., of Wigau, co. Lancaster, by whom he had issue ihree sons, Edward, his successor. John, in holy orders, rector of Workington, who marri- ed Clara, daughter of John Philipson, Esq., of Cal- gartli, CO. A\'estmorland, and had a son, Edward (living 1791), «ho married Julia,daughter of John Christian, Esq., of Unerigg, by whom he had several children. Holt, a lieutenant in Rrigadier-Gencral AVcntworth's rcgimont of loot, died unmarried, in the expedition against Porto Hello. 2 o 286 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Mr. Stanley was succeeded by his eldest son, Edward Stanley, Esq., who was born in the year 1690. He married (1737) Mildred, youngest daughter of Sir George Fleming, Bart., Lord Bishop of Carlisle, who survived him, and was buried in the south aisle of the cathedral church of Carlisle, where there is a monument to her memory. By his said wife Mr. Stanley had issue, George-Edward, his successor. Dorothy, married to Lieutenant Joseph Dacre, eldest son of Joseph Dacre, Esq. of Kirklinton, who died without issue in the year of her marriage, and was also buried in the cathedral church of Carlisle. And four other daughters, who all died unmarried. Mr. Stanley died in the year 1751, and was succeeded by his only son. George-Edward Stanley, Esq., was born in March, 1748. He built the present mansion-house, was high-sheriff of the county in 1774, and married (in the same year) Dorothy, youngest daughter of Sir William Fleming, of Rydal-hall, Bart., (who died in 1786, and was buried in the church of Ponsonby, see monument) by whom he had issue, Mildred. Elizabeth. Mr. Stanley married, secondly, in 1789, Elizabeth, second daughter of Morris Evans, co. Middlese-x, Esq., by whom he had issue, Edward, his successor. George, born 1791. Jane, born 1792. Mr. Stanley died in 1806, and was succeeded by his eldest son, the present lord of the manor. Edward Stanley, Esq., M.P., was born in 1790, and suc- ceeded to the estates on the death of iiis father, 17th Novem- ber, 1806. In December, 1821, Mr. Stanley married Mary, daughter of William Douglas, Esq., one of the judges in the East Indies, and has had issue, Edward, born September, 1822, ob. 1825. Jane. Mary. Helen le Fleming. William, born 14ih September, 1829. George-Edward, born 21st November, 1831. Henry, died young. PARISH OF PONSONBY. 287 Constance. Douglas- Austhwaite. Mr. Stanlc)' is a magistrate and deputy-lieutenant of the county of Cumberland, and filled the office of high-sheriff in 1823. lie has been returned knight of the shire for West Cumberland in several parliaments. Mr. Stanley is the twenty-fourth in lineal descent from Henry Stanleigh da Stoneley, " who lived forty years before the Conquest." PoNSONBY Hall. Ponsonby Hall, the scat of Edward Stanley, Esq. M.P., was built about the year 17S0, by the father of the present proprietor. It is situated about half a mile from C'alder bridge ; the park is entered through a gateway, the pillars of which are surmounted by the crest of the family. The hall is seated on the summit of an eminence, and commands an extensive and varied prospect of sea and land, including the beautiful ruins of Calder abbey, the "Welsh mountains, and the Isle of Man. The entablature of the portico is supported by four columns, thirteen and a half feet in height, each cut from one solid block of stone. A very curious carved oak bed-stead is preserved here, which was brought from Dale- garth-liall (see page 179); the pillars are massy, and the carving is unusually rich. On the cor- nice are shields charged with the arms of Stanley quartered with Austhwaite ; it bears the date 1345, rudely carved on the back, and may be considered as one of the most curious in the kingdom. The ajiartments contain many valuable paint- ings, including six on copper, by Holbein, — Henry ^ HI., Ann Boleyn, his queen, Chaucer, Ben Jonson, Latimer,and Cranmer; JohnStanley, 2 o 2 288 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Esq. the royalist, (see page 2S4) ; Sir George Fleming, Bart, Lord Bishop of Carlisle, by Van- derbank; the late George Edward Stanley, Esq., by Opie ; and his lady, by Romney ; Edward Stanley, Esq., M.P., by Lonsdale ; and Mrs. Stanley, by Mrs. Carpenter ; Henry, Lord Vis- count Lonsdale ; and Mrs. Dacre, aunt of Mr. Stanley (see page 286). The gardens are laid out with great taste, and are rich in choice flowers and shrubs. No pen, however, can do justice to the sceneiy on the banks of the Calder : overhung by luxuriant trees, beneath which winding paths lead to the stream dashing over its rocky bed, it presents remarkable combinations of beauty with grandeur, rendering it one of those delightful places which when once seen are never forgotten. The walks embrace both sides of the river, whose troubled yet trans- parent waters are crossed by a rustic bridge. The Church. The church of Ponsonby was given by John Fitz-Ponson to the priory ofConishead in Furness. In a list of the possessions of that house ( Valor Ecdesiusticiis, Henry VHL) this church is enter- ed as follows : — Decitn' ecclie. de Ponsonby viz. granos. etfeni "^ Ixxiij*. m]d. Ian' Sc agn' xls. vitul' procell'/ £ s. d. auc' & gallin' iiijs. oblac' vijs. viijc/. privai'S vij viij iiij & rainut' decim' ut in libro pascliali xxiijs.C iiijc/. In tot' } In the year 16S9, "a presentation from the crown was procured to this church as a vicarage. PARISH OF PONSONBT. 289 but afterwards revoked, and there was none be- fore that in the institution books." The hving was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty at 91. 12s., viz: 6/. paid by tlie impropriator ; 3/. given by William Cleator, M. D., for monthly sermons ; and 2.v. surplice fees. In 1717, it "was certified that the said Wil- liam Cleator, abovementioned, who was doctor of physic, gave by his will, 100/. to the minister for preaching twelve sermons every year, till the impropriation should be restored to the church, and then to go to a school in the parish. And the executors refusing to pay the money, the minister sued and recovered it in chancery, with 20/. arrears of interest ; 9/. of this money was then lost, and 13/. thereof in the hands of the churchwardens not disposed of. The rest was laid out in lands."* In 1789, "the income was 22/. besides the surplice fees, viz. G/. paid by the impropriator ; 12/. the rent of an estate called Nun-house, in the parish of Dent, Yorkshire, (now let for 15/. 15s.) purchased with 200/. obtained by lot, from the governors of the bounty of Queen Anne, in the year 1711 ; and 1/. being the interest of an- other sum of 200/. obtained also by lot, in the year 1780, and those undisposed of in lands."f In the following year, " a benefaction of 200/. was procured by Mr. Stanley's interest; with which 200/. more was obtained from the gover- nors of the bounty of Queen Anne. In 1791, the further sum of 200/. fell to the said church • Nicolfon and Bum. t HulcUinson, 290 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. by lot ; and on or before the 25th of March, 1792, Mr. Stanley obtained by his interest, a further benefaction of 200/. which being placed in Queen Anne's funds, obtained from the gover- nors 200/. now making altogether, the sum of 1200/. which was laid out in the year 1793, in the purchase of a freehold and tithe-free estate, called Green-moor-side, situate in the parish of St. Bridget (Beckermet). The premises are well built, contain between sixty and seventy acres of arable land, and are not more than one mile and a quarter from Ponsonby church."* The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in tlie im- propriation and patronage of Edward Stanley, Esq., M.P. The resident curate is the Rev. Clement Fox. " There is no register in this parish of an earlier date than 1723 !" List of Incumbents. George Cannell,f occurs 1723. 1789 Matthew Hall. 18.. John Gaitskell, B.A. 1829 John Fleming.+ The Church of Ponsonby, dedicated in honor of , is situated in the park, about the cen- tre of the parish, and at a short distance from the hall. It is an ancient structure, but has been • Hutchinson, f Of Trinity college, Dublin. Mr. Cannell was "so expert a mathe- matician, that after he became blind he could have solved any problem in Euclid. He performed the duties of his church, and taught a school in tie parish, for many years after he lost his sight." X Vicar of Llangwym, co. Monmouth. PARISH OF PONSONBY. 291 much modernized in its appearance ; it consists of a nave and chancel of equal height, with a tower and spire at its western end, beneath which is the entrance. The chancel-arch is pointed, and the pulpit and reading-desk are placed beneath it one on each side. The east window contains some stained glass :— the arms of " Stanly e and Bri^^'e"* and of " Hutton and Brigge," and the armTand crest of the Stanley family. There are also some other fragments ; all of which appear to have been preserved from an older building ; probably some might be brought from Dalcgarth hall, which was the ancient seat of the Stanleys. The' old oak roof has been recently concealed by a new ceiling ; when the antique windows, of all sizes and styles, were replaced by modern inser- tions The tower and spire were erected m 1 S4U, by Edward Stanley, Esq. IVI.P., the impropriator and patron of the living. The church-yard being surrounded by a ha-ha-fence, the prospect across the park is unbroken by walls. On the south- side of the church are the remains of a cross ; little, however, is now left to indicate the pro- bable' period of its erection. A brass plate on the north wall ot the nave bears this inscription : — jBjtrc Iprtfi tf)e toSijr of fiances patrjifUson Daugfj^ trr to gir CfiamaB ff.MIjpct, bniglit, onr of tlir most hoiiorab'.r jiybc Comufll to Ugngf ficncrjiE tl)c bttt. Somr tiimc toyfc of Cfiomas ligftc of craUifr.& at tfit Uac of i)cv licati), toufc of asaniiam patrpcUoon, gentleman. . Edward Stanley. Esq. son of Thomas, married Ann, daughter and coheiress of Thomas Briggs, Esq. of Caumire. co. Westmorland, (see pag«284). 292 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. (Soi gabc tfiis tonfr a tsnntic to ]irasc, in gronrs anO yangs of itti, & to (rabrn rlrbating fianBs ants nus, sinnUnglBC to prill trctti ; anl) tjus at agr of Ibi. to giabc sfir tolic f)cr hiauf, ©oil graiitc tfjat s5c & tor man mrtr, tn joyr at tfif last liape. Sfie liBeJl tfie ibt. of jJuUi, in ttjt gcie of our Horli, 1&78. On the south side of the chancel is a mural monument of white marble, bearing this inscrip- tion : — Here rest in peace the transient Remains of DOROTHY the Wife of GEORGE EDWARD STANLEY, of Ponsonby-hall, Esquire, the Daughter of Sir William Fleming of Rydal-hall, Baronet; She died July 10—1786, Aged 30. The remembrance of her virtues, like her person exquisitely amiable, is stamped upon the minds of her sorrowing connexions in a character bold and indelible. Near the above is another mural monument which is thus inscribed — Within this Church are deposited the remains of GEORGE EDWARD STANLEY, Esq. ■with whose benevolence as a Christian, in all the social duties of Husband, Father, and Friend, PARISH OF PONSONBY. 293 ■were happily blended the refined manners of the Gentleman. He departed this life, Nov. 17, 1806, Aged 59, transmitting to his son, ■who with veneration erects this tablet to his memory, A name and property, honorably upheld through many a Generation. On the same wall, farther eastward, is a free- stone tablet, with arms, and two rude figures, to the memory of Thomas Curwen, Esq., oh. 1633, son of Sir llenrv Curwen, of Workington-hall, knight; the whole surrounded by a moulding enriched with the tooth ornament, of a much older date, and apparently removed for that pur- In the church-yard, on the south side of the church, is a gravestone, bearing the following remarkable inscription, which records an honor- able instance of self-denial, well deserving of being placed on record: — Within this Tomb is contained all that was mortal of JOHN FLET- CHKU of Struddabank, who willingly laid down His frail corruptible Body in the dust, because he firmly believ'd it would be restored to him again incorruptible and full of Glory. As to liis conversation the last Day will dUcover what manner of man he was. He marryed Anne daughter to William & Elizabeth Mawson, by y^hom he had one son ; Short were the joys of his marriage state, but many. Laborious and full of trouble the Days, of his widdowhood, But as the love of his son brought all these upon him, so he cheerfully underwent them to procure for him a most Liberal Education ; Nor was he disappointed in his wishes, for notwithstanding the narrowness of his Circumstances, he gave him Eleven 2 p 294 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. years University Education, and liv'd to see him Chaplain of Queen's College in Oxford. This stone was placed by order of his gratcfull and sorrowfull son, to perpetuate so rare an Instance of Paternal affection so far beyond the Father's abilities, and of so uncommon a Desire in a man of his Education to Promote Religion and Learning. He was Bom in Wasdale-Head, liv'd 73 years, and dyed on the 5th of August — Anno Dom: 1716. Thus man lieth down & riseth not till y Heavens be no more. B Cole, Oxon Feet.— Cijr iJaris!) of ©oefortt ONTAINS the four town- ships or constablewicks of Gosforth, Boonwood and Seascale, High Bolton, and Low Bolton. It extends about five miles in length, and two in breadth ; and is -»--=:— s^^- bounded on the west, by the Iri'stni^a ; on the south, by the parishes of Dri<^g and Irton ; on the east, by the parish ot Irton and the chapclry of Nethev-AVasdale ; and on the north, by the parish of Ponsonby. It appears from the register that m the year 1599, upwards of one hundred deaths ocurred m this parish, which at that period contained only about GOO or 700 inhabitants. This great mor- tality was probably occasioned by the plague, as that terrible scourge visited several parts ot Cumberland at about the same period. The population of this parish, at Easter, lb40, was 1011, as taken by the Ilev. Francis Ford Pinder, M.A. the rector, who has in his possession a Pictish axe of stone, which was found here a lew years since in a moss. A copper battle-axe was also found at the depth of four feet in the moss at Bolton Wood. . This parish, although not mountainous, has rather a high situation ; it consists chiefly of a 2 p 2 296 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. light reel sandy soil, and abounds \\itli freestone. Neither coal nor limestone are found here. The lands were enclosed under an act of parliament passed in 1810, by which allotments were made to the rector in lieu of tithes. By that act also six acres of land were allotted for the purpose of holding the two annual fairs at Boonwood ; — on the 25th of April, for horned cattle ; and on the 18th of October for foals and cattle. The poor-stock belonging to this parish was certified in 1717, of the value of 24/. the interest of which was distributed annually at Easter : 25s. per annum are now paid from this source. The village of Gosforth, which is irregularly built, is near the road from ^^llitehaven to Ul- verston, six miles S.S.E. of Egremont, and five miles north of Ravenglass. Near the village is a modern mansion — the seat of Sir Humphrey le Fleming Senhouse, K.C.H. and C.B., a younger brother of Sampson Senhouse, Esq. of the Par- sonage, Ponsonby. Near Seascale is the site of a Druid's temple, the stones of which were all removed and buried by a person who farmed the Seascale-hall estate, excepting one which was left standing. The Manor of Gosforth. Mr. John Denton says, " above Dregg lies the parish, manor, and town of Gosford, wliereof the Gosfords, an ancient family in tliose parts, took their sirname ; Robert Gosford, the last of their house, left his lands to be divided amongst five coheirs ; 1 st, Mariotte, the wife of Allan Caddy, eldest daughter and coheir of Robert Gosford. — PARISH OF GOSFORTH. 297 2nd, Isabel, the wife of Henry Ilustock, his second daughter. — 3rd, Johan, the wife of John Garth, his third daughter. — 1th, Ellen, the wite of Wil- ham Kirby, his fourth daughter. — And 5th, John Multnn, the son of Agnes Eastholme, the fifth daughter and coheir of Robert Gosford. In the 2nd year of King Edward III. Sarah, the widow of Ptobert Leybourn, held Caddy's part ; John Penyston, Kirkby's part ; and the said John Mul- ton the residue ; but now Pennington, Kirkby, and Senhouse of S°askall, hold it.'' Mr. Robert Copley — who was for seventeen years steward to Sir William Pennington of Muncaster, during his minority, and who held the office of chief-bailiff of Copeland forest under the Earl of Northumberland — purchased Kirkby's part, and is said to have " built a large handsome house, with orchards and gardens suitable," which, in 177G, were represented as "much in decay." Gosforth Hall, which formerly belonged to the Gosforths or Ciosfords, closely adjoins the church, and is now occupied as a farm-house. The pre- sent structure was probably built by the Copleys, about the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Over an C old chimney-piece, in a knot, are the initials y> y (Richard and Jane Copley) and the date 1673. The family of Gosforth became extinct early in the fourteenth century : the coheiresses mar- ried Caddy, Ilustock, Garth, Kirkby, and Est- holme, as stated above. The Manor or Bolton. This manor in the reign of Edward I. belonged 298 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. to the Waybergthwaites ; and in the 23rd year of that reign WiUiam de Waybergthwaiteheld 10/. lands there, of Thomas de INIulton of Gilsland, and his land in M'aybergthvvaite of the lord of Milloni. In the 35th Henry 8. William Kirkby held the manor of Bolton of the king as of his castle of Egremont, by knight's service, paying yearly 10s. cornage, and seawake, homage, suit of court, and witnessman. At the same time he held lands and tenements in Gosforth and Cleator, by the like homage, fealty, and suit of court, and paying to the king a fee farm rent of 8s. for the lands in Gosforth, and 2*. for the lands in Cleator ; and 2,v. sea'wake, and also puture of two Serjeants. It was afterwards the estate of Lancelot Sen- house, whose father was third brother of the house of Seascales, and he liad it by grant from the lord thereof, his brother.* Charles Lutwidge, Esq., (in 1777) and his younger brothers, Henry and Admiral SkefRngton, were successively proprietors of this manor. It was sold after the death of Henry, and purchased by the Admiral,f from whom it descended to his nephew. Major Skefhngton Lutwidge, the present lord. The Manor of Seascale and Newton. Seascale was anciently the seat of the family of SenhouseJ who possessed it for many genera- • Nicolson and Bum. t See page 204. I A pedigree of this ancient family will be given in Dcrwent Ward, under the parish of Cross-Canonby, in which they have resided for about a century and a half. PARISH OF GOSFORTH. 299 tions. In 168S it was the seat of John Senhouse, Esq., and was subsequently purchased by Mr. Bhiylock, a Whitehaven merchant, whose daugh- ter and heiress married Augustus Earl, Esq. from whom it passed to his two sisters, cohcu-esses, and eventually to the Lutwidge family. Atter the death of Charles Lutwidge, Esq. the manor of Newton and Seascale was purchased by Samp- son Senhouse, Esq., of London, (nephew ot the late Humphrey Senhouse, Esq., ot Netherhall) whose younger brother. Sir Humphrey le Fleming Senhouse, K.C.IL, C.B., is the present lord. The mansion, Seascale-hall, is now a farm-house. On the wall is an escutcheon, cut in stone, ot the arms of Senhouse quartered with Ponsonby with the initials T. S. and M. S. and the date 1G06. It is remarkable that the arms of Senhouse as put up here are— party per pale, argent and gules, on the tirst a parrot, and not (as now borne by the family) or, a parrot proper. The Church. The benetice is a rectory, rated in the King's Books at 17/. Us. I'l. and was certitied to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty at the clear yearly improved value of 35/. lu'the Sth Edward III., William Pennington, of Muncaster, Esq., died seized of the advowson of this church. Afterwards, the patronage ap- pears to have been in the crown ; and in the Otli Edward VI., the said king, by his letters patent, granted the advowson and right of patronage to Ferf'us Greyme, gentleman, his heirs and assigns. And" in the Gth Elizabeth, March 22, there was 300 ALLERDALR WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. a licence to Fergus Greyme to alienate the same (holden of the queen in cap'ite) to Thomas Sen- house, gentleman, for the fine of 16s. lOr/. paid into the hanaper. The advowson and right of patronage of this rectory and church was acquired, 6th Elizabeth, by Thomas Senhouse, Esq., and the church is now in the patronage of Sir Humphrey le Flem- ing Senhouse, K.C.H. and C.B. (captain of H. M. S. Blenheim) as lord of the manor of Sea- scale. On the enclosure of the commons (under an act passed in 1810), lands were allotted to the rector in lieu of tithes. The living is entered as follows in the Valor Ecclesiastic us of Henry VHI :— Gosforthe Rectoria Eccl'ie. Edw'dus Kcllett incumbeiis Rector' p'dca. valet ia £ s d Mansione cum gleba per an- ^ ' •■ num S ' ' ^ Decim' granos. vij/. ijs. viijrf. Ian' et agnell' iiij/. xiiJA'. minut' et privat' decim''^ . oblac' lit in libr" ^ ' J J cuni pascbal' iiij/. In tot' V1IJ5. )ro iiij(/. \ £ , >xviij - d. Eepris' viz in Sinod' ijs. jd. procurac' iiij*\ \d. Et valet clare Xma. ps. iudo *. vj *. d. vj d. XVIJ XUIJ VIJ — XXXV vob' List of Rectors. Edward Kellett, occurs, 1535. 1662 John Benn. 1676 Thomas Morland. PARISH OF GOSFORTH. 301 1738 Peter Murthwaite. 1774 Charles C. Church. 1809 Henry Bragg, oh. 1827. 1827 James Lowther Senhouse, M.A.* 1835 Francis Ford Pindar, M.A.f The Church of Gosforth, a remarkably neat structure, dedicated in honor of St. Mary, under- went a very extensive repair, a considerable por- tion having been rebuilt, in 1789, by which nearly all its marks of antiquity were effaced. It consists of a nave and chancel, of equal height. The western end is surmounted by a bell-turret (carry- ing two modern bells), which formed part of the old building, and bears the date 1654. The chancel-arch also remains: it is pointed; the piers are Norman, with grotesque heads, and the architrave may be of the time of the second or thiid i:dward. The chancel extended several yards farther eastward, until the alterations were effected in 1789. The windows are all modern and barbarous in design. The bell-turret stood formerly at the east end of the nave, and was at that time removed to its present position. The church is crowded with three galleries ; that at the west end contains an organ. The font is uncanonical both in size and situation, — it is not sufficiently capacious, and it is placed near the altar, (sec pages 132—135). In an old chest on the staircase is a black letter copy of the Book of Homilies, folio, 1G33. The registers commence in 1571. • Of Trinity College, Camtridgc ; resigned in 1836 : now vicar of Sawlcy, CO. Derbysliire. t Of Trinity College, Cambridge. 2 Q 302 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The only monument in the church is one on the north wall of the chancel, — a marble tablet, with this inscription : — CATHERINE youngest daughter of Robert Allan, of Eclinliurgh, Banker, and Wife of Charles Pahker, of Parknook, Died the 11th of February 1825, Aged thirty-nine. '■Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord." Rev. 14 c. 13 V. In the church-yard, on the south side of the church, is a cross of British or Danish origin.* It is fourteen feet in height ; and about fourteen inches mean diameter ; the lower part, which is fixed in a pedestal of three steps, is rounded, but the upper part, being rather more than half the length, is nearly square. The summit is perforated with four holes. " The four sides, are enriched with various guilloches, and other ornaments, besides several figures of men and animals in bas- relief ; it is remarkable that the figure of a man on horseback on the north side is repeated upside down, and another is represented in the same manner, on the west side." There was formerly " a fellow column, at about seven feet distance, with an horizontal stone between the two, on which was rudely cut the figure of a large and antique sword. This stone has been taken away within memory [in 1799]; and the cross which crowned the two columns, after that column was cruelly cut down and converted into a style for a sun-dial, was put into the parson's garden of • Engraved in Lysons's Magna Britannia, and in the Gentleman's Magazine, 1790. PARISH OF GOSFORTH. 303 Gosforth and there remains."* On the column which was destroyed were two indistinct "figures of horses and men." The cross and the pillar were probably placed at each end of a grave, at some very remote period, like the two pillars in the church-yard of Penrith (see vol. i. Leath Ward, page 57). The present rector, the Rev. Francis Ford Pinder, M.A. has in his possession fragments of one or two other crosses, supposed to have been found in different parts of the church-yard. They appear by their workmanship to have been erected at least at as early a period as before the Con- quest ; and are probably portions of the cross which was destroyed. The church-yard is kept in good order : neither nettles nor rubbish-heaps are allowed to offend the eye within the consecrated enclosure. Two aged yew-trees stand to the east of the church. The church-yard affords an extensive prospect, terminating iu tlie east by a magnificent mountain range. The rectory-house is a pleasant residence, closely adjoining the church-yard. • Gentleman's Magazine, Oct. 1799. 2 Q 2 Ctie 13ari0t) of St. J»ritjgct, HE parish of St. Bridget, Beckermet, is of a long narrow shape, extending east and west nearly eight miles, hut its breadth in no pai't exceeding one mile and a half. It is bounded on the south-east by the 'Calder, which divides it from the parish of Pon- sonby ; on the west, by the Irish sea ; on the north, by the parishes of Hale and St. John's, and on the east, by the mountains ofCopeland Forest. The parish is not divided into townships : it con- tains part of the villages of Beckermet and Cal- der-Bridge, and the hamlets of Yotton-Fews, Sella-Field, and Skalderskew. The soil of the western part of this parish is light and fertile ; but towards the east, nearer the fells, it is cold and barren. Neither lime nor coal are found here, but the parish contains some quarries of free-stone. At tlie latter end of the last century the rents of the land in this ])arish averaged only 15.^. per acre. There is a salmon- fishery at the mouth of the Calder. Sella-field tarn, in this parish, is a small lake, containing perch and other fish. Towards the eastern ex- PARISH OF ST. BRIDGET. 305 tremity of the parish are Cald-fell (the source of the Calder) and AVasdale-fells, which afford pas- ture for hirge flocks of sheep. The following is Mr. Sandford's account of this parish : — " Two miles southward you have the little river of Cawdcr, a pretty stone bridge but of one arch, and a church upon the hill above it, and the said river, a little above the bridge, com- ing thoroogh the abbie of Cawder,who3e ruins shew their antiquity and and sometime after the fatal fall of Abbies, this came into the liands and possession of the late judge Ilutton of the Comon pleas [?] and he exchanged it with Monsr. Kighlcy of Yorkshire, for Goldsborow in York- shire, a little i'rom Wetherby : where the said judge Hutton's name and fame hves at this day."* The Manor of Great Beckermet Is so called to distinguish it from the manor of Little Beckermet, in the adjoining parish of St. John. Tliis manor has constantly attended the demesne of the barony of Egremont ; it was the property of the late Earl of Egremont, by whom it was bequeathed, with his other Cum- berland estates, to his son, Major-Gencral Henry Wyndham, of Cockermouth castle, the present lord. One estate, however, called Calder lordship, in which the church is situated, is held under the Earl of Lonsdale. • MS. Dean and Chapter Library, Carlisle. 306 allerdale ward, above derwent. Sella Park. Sella Park is an ancient retired mansion-house, one mile and a half from the mouth of the Calder. This was formerly the property of the monks of the adjoining abbey of Calder, who had here a deer-park. On the dissolution of chantries. Sella Park was granted to Sir Henry Curwen, of Work- ington, knight, (knight of the shire 6th Edward VI. and 1st Elizabeth) whose gi'andson Darcy Curwen, Esq. built the present dwelling, now occupied as a farm-house. Having been purchased from that family by George Edward Stanley, Esq. of Pon- sonby-hall, it is now the property of his son, Edward Stanley, Esq. M.P. Mr. Sandford speaks of it as " a pretty house called Scella park hall ; But neither parke nor deer about it, but brave sport with riding and striking of fflounders and other fish, with fishers in the shallow river running brood upon the sand; which sport I myself have been at ; and have seen two men, one at either end of the nett, the tide coming upon the sands, wade into the sea with a nett of a great compass, till the waves have stroke above their sholders, so as you could see nothing but their heads, and bring forth some- times pretty store of salmon, codlins, killings, and other fishes, and sometimes nothing."* The Church. The church of St. Bridget was appropriated to the adjoining abbey of Calder, previous to the • MS. Dean and Chapter Library, Carlisle. PARISH OF ST. BRIDGET. 307 year 1262. Until the dissolution of that abbey, this parish, and those of St. John's and Arlecdon, (see page 16,) were under the spiritual care of the monks of that house. On the dissolution of religious houses, the parish was left nearly desti- tute, as the revenues of tlie church were not restored, but granted to the Flemings of Rydal : so that from this time until about the year 1S38, tbe adjoining parishes of St. Bridget and St. John were under the spiritual care of one curate, who officiated in each church alternately. In the time of Bishop Bridgman, who held the see of Chester from 1619 to 1657, these two parishes paid synodals and procurations jointly ; but, since that time, they have been exempt, "by reason of their poverty." The church of St. Bridget was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty of the clear annual value of 11. John Fleming, Esq. gave the church of St. Bridget to Sir Jordan Crossland, knight, on his marriage with his daughter; whose daughters and coheiresses sold it to Richard Patrickson, Esq. It afterwards passed to the families of Todd and Gaitskell; and in IS 10, was purchased by Thomas Irwin, Esq. of Calder abbey. The living is not entered in the I'alor EccJesi- asticus of Henry \TII. excepting as being appro- priated to Calder abbey. This church is detached from the village of Beckermet ; from which it is distant about half a mile south-west. It stands in a lonely situation, and although not on a low ground, yet scarcely a house can be seen from the church-yard. The church is an ancient edifice, but like many others in this county, its antiquity has been carefully 308 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. concealed by modernizing improvements. It con- sists of a nave and chancel : at the west end, over the entrance, is a bell-turret, carrying two bells. The chancel-arch is pointed, with plain mould- ings ; beneath it are placed the pulpit and read- ing-desk. There are no monuments in the interior. The oak-roof was covered about the year 1S08, by a plaster ceiling, as dazzling as white-wash can make it. This is probably the concluding improvement. At the same the church was pewed. The south porch has been destroyed — probably under the idea that it was no longer necessary to have an appendage to the churcli which modern religious utilitarians consider as convenient only for scraping shoes in. There was formerly a narrow square-headed door on the south side of the chancel : this is blocked up ; as also two windows of two round-headed lights each, under square dripstones. On the south side of the church-yard are two stone pillars, in close juxtaposition, each fixed in a large flat stone ; the lower part of each is round, the upper part square : one of them, five feet eight inches high, is ornamented with the double guilloche, so common among the Roman architectural ornaments ; the other with an elegant double scroll, enriched with foliage on the east side : and on the west, are the remains of an inscrip- tion, apparently Saxon, but in too decayed a state to afford any satisfactory conjecture as to its import ; it is probably only a fragment, as the upper part of each of these pillars is broken off.* A new church is now being erected at Calder- • Lysons. PARISH OF ST. BRIDGET. 309 Bridi^c, in this parish, at the sole expence of Thoinas Irwin, Esq. of Calder-abbey. The lo- cahty of the old church being very inconvenient for the parishioners, IMr. Irwin has been induced to erect another in a more central part of the parish. It is in the form of a cross, and has a tower with four pinnacles at the end. The wm- dows are narrow lancets. It is in a crowded site-, and has no room for a burial ground. Calder Abbey, Caldcr abbey was founded A.D. 1134, by Ranulph de Meschincs (the second of that name), for monks of the Cistercian oidcr,* and dedi- cated (as was usual with houses of that order) in honor of the blessed Virgin Mary. Leland speaks of it, as " Caldher abbey of whyte monks yn Copcland, not very far from St. Beges and nere to Egremont Castle." Mr. John Denton says, " howbcit, I think it was not perfected till Thomas de Multon linished the Avorks, and cstab- Ushed a greater convent of monks there." This was a filiation from the abbey of St. Mary, in Furness,t and West's "Antiquities of Furness" contains the following account of the proceedings • There nppcus to have been only one olhcr religious house of that erdcrinthc county -the abbey of Molmc.C.lUam, uhose very ruins have been most disgracefully pilfered away, leaving only a portion of tho nave, which is now fitted up as a parish-church. t The riih abbey of Furness had under her nine houses, four of which were filiations from that monastery :-l, Calder abbey ; 2. Swinshcad. or Swynsheved abbey, in Lincolnshire ; 3, tho abbey of Uussin, m Man ; 4, Fennoi, in Ireland ; 5, Ynes; G, Holy Cross; 7, Wythuca; 8, Cork- onrouth; 9. Yncfclughcn; with Arkclo, and BeUo-Bccio. 2 R 310 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. of those who detached themselves from that monastery. — Ceroid, abbot of Calder, having been " detached from the abbey of Furness, anno 35 Hen. I. with twelve monks, to found the ab- bey of Caldre, in Coupland, in the county of Cumberland, which, as has been observed, they had by the gift of William, nephew to David, king of Scots, and where they remained four years, when David, making an inroad into those parts. Ceroid with his brethren, returned for refuge to the mother monastery, in Furness. This happened about the third of king Stephen. " The abbot of Furness refused to receive Ceroid and his companions, reproaching them with cowardice for abandoning their monastery, and alleging that it was rather the love of that ease and plenty which they expected in Furness, than the devastation of the Scottish army, that forced them from Caldre. Some writers say, that the abbot of Furness insisted that Ceroid should divest himself of his authority, and absolve the monks from their obedience to him, as a condi- tion of their receiving any relief, or being again admitted into their old monastery. This, Ceroid and his companions refused to do, and turning their faces from Furness, they, with the remains of their broken fortune, whicli consisted of little more than some clothes and a few books, with one cart and eight oxen, taking providence for their guide, went in search of better hospitality. " The result of their next day's resolution was to address themselves to Thurstan, archbishop of York, and beg his advice and relief: the re- ception they met witli from him, answered their wishes ; the archbishop graciously received them. PAniSII OF ST. BRIDGET. 311 and charitably entertained them for some time, then recommended them to Gundrede de Auhii^- ny, ^vho sent them to Robert de Ahieto her brother, a hermit, at Ilode, where she supplied them with necessaries for some time. Ceroid afterwards went to Serlo, abbot of Savigni, who received his depcndance on that house, anno 1142; but dying at York on his return, Roger, one of his companions from Caldre, succeeded him in his abbacy. " The abbot of Furness, understanding that Ceroid had obtained a settlement at Ilode, in the east riding of Yorkshire, sent another colony, with Hardred, a Furness monk, for tlieir abbot, to settle at Caldre. After Roger had quitted Hode, and obtained a seat at Byland, Hardred abbot of Caldre challenged a jurisdiction over his house at Byland, in right of filiation, as belong- ing to the abbey of Caldre, from whence they had departed ; but after some altercation. Hard- red renounced all right to Roger. " The al)l)ot of Furness still claiming a sub- jection from Roger and his monks, the question was at last submitted to a reference, of which Aldrcd, abbot of Reival, was umpire ; when in presence of several ab!)ots and monks, of different monasteries, judgment was given against the abbot of Furness." The possessions of the abbey at an early period will api)ear from the following confirmation of grants by Henry H. Iloiiricus rox, ^-c. salutcm. .Sclatis, nos intuitu Dei ct pro sahiUc aniiiiai noslroe ct aniniiiruni aiitcccssorum et hsDioiliim iKisUrmini, coiicossissp ct liac carta nostra CDnfir- massc alibati ct indnatliis xlviij XV — vj xvj VllJ PARISH OF ST. BRIDGET. 319 oci. joms VIZ ct siliginis ^ jgn' viij*. laii'V oblac' tribzv^ c'et/ t'etW ibro^ Decim' ecclie. Sci. Johis viz aven' ordij xxvj*. viijf?. agn' xiiijs. iiij(Z. diebz principal' va\ auc' et/ gallin' iij.f. viijc?. mimit' privat' decim' ut in libr paschal' xxx«. In toto Decim' ecclie. de Cleter' viz aven' ordei & siliginis xxxixs. Ian' xjs. viijc?. agn' i vjs. auc' k gallin' iijs. ixc^. oblac' tribz diebz prenci- palibz iiijs. minut' & pri-l vat' decim' ut in libro paschal' xxs. In tot' luj vij viij £ ^xv s. viij d. ix iiij luj V Sma. omi'. tempaliu. & sp'ualiu. abbathic pdce. Ixiiij iij ix se&c ^ c p. > . U}d. ^ XllJ d. 'i'j Eepris'. Lib'a Firma viz. in Liba. firma. dno.Rs.ballo. de Gilcrowsse &c Deram vj.5. viijrf. abbat' de Holme liba. firma de Calder p. annu. vjs. vi Pens' & Sinod' viz in Pens' solut' vicar' dc Gylcrowsse per com- ^ £ *. d. poss' liij«. iiijrf. sinod' & pcurac' pro > — Ixiiij v ob' ecclis. predict' xj5. jd. ob' In tot' 3 Feod' viz in Feod' Thome Lamplcw sen. terr' xxvj». viijhel s. A few years ago an anchor was dug up in it of a size which proves th.it the channel was navigable for vessels of considerable burthen. It is not known at what time this revolution 2 T 2 328 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The village of St. Bees is situated in a deep valley about foui- miles south from Whitehaven, took place, but it must have been prior to the foundation of St. Bees' abbey, which stands within the mouth of the valley. St. Bees' abbey is said to have been founded about G50. The retreat of the sea does net appear to have been aided by any assistance of art, which indeed would have been unprolitably employed in this instance, for the difficulties op- posed to navigation by the loss of this channel are by no means compen- sated for by the recovery of the land. With certain winds, vessels sailing either to or from Whitehaven are much hampered in rounding the head, and in rough weather are subject to delays which might be avoided were a passage open for them round the back of the promontory. It has been thought very practicable to cut a new channel for the sea through this valley, and though the expense of such a work would be great, it would be well bestowed in facilitating the trade of such a port as Whitehaven. " We made a trial of walking along the base of the Head, intending to ■work our passage round it, but the fragments of rock that are strewed in rugged heaps along the shore rendered the task impracticable, at least on one pair of legs. Near the south end there has lately occurred a most awful fall of the rocks, a segment from the whole front of the cliff of many thousand tons having given way, and now forming a stupendous pile of ruins thrown together in the wildest disorder, and threatening another crash as you gaze upon them. The rocks lie in vast blocks, squared and placed with a regularity as if done by human art, and the whole mass might be supposed the ruins of a castle, of a magnitude it must be confessed, suitable only for a race of giants. " Ascending to the summit of the Head we walked (with perfect safely let me say to those who would follow us) along the edge of the precipice till we came to a singular ravine intersecting the clilffrom top to bottom, the sides almost perpendicular and meeting at their bases. Thesca flows into it for a few yards over a beach noted for the beauty of its pebbles. From the north side of this chasm we had a fine view of the precipice to the south, which exhibited a very grand front, sometimes broken by hol- lows and overhanging crags, and in places as smooth and perpendicular as a wall. "We proceeded, frequently peeping over the precipice, to tremble at PARISH OF ST. BEES. 329 and neai- the rocky promontories anciently called the cliff of Baruth, and now known as St. Bees its depth or note some change in the configuration or posture of the rocks, till our particular admiration was called forth by Cloven Barf (I iJiink that was the name), a rude and enormous column, separated from the summit of the cliff by a cleft about 12 feet wide and GO feet deep. The rock at its base is so much broken, that it appears to stand very inseciurely and ere long the huge mass must come thundering down. A crazy plank, not more than a foot wide, was tlirown across the chasm, a pass for the boys in their attacks upon the sea-mews' eggs. • • • " .\t the most northern point of the promontory the cliffs rise to a great height and from thence to its termination east are hollowed out into a series of deep recesses, with huge buttresses projecting between them, presenting an endless variety in the forms of the broken rocks, which roughen their multiplied precipices. Near the east are some large quarries, which have been worked to a great extent. The stone has the advantage of being very easily cut, but the quality of softness wliich re- commends it to the quarriers andmasons, rather unfits it for the purposes of building. It hardens on exposure to the air, but when first used is very susceptible of injury from rain. It is a practice in Whitehaven to rub over the houses built of this stone with oil, which entirely spoils the beauty of its colour, but is found materially to preserve its substance. " St. Bees' Head is far loftier than any of the neiglibouring hills, and jutting out at least a mile beyond the line of coast on each side of it, is rendered a very conspicuous object, easily distinguished and identified by seamen at a great distance. From its northern side a steep descent leads down to a lower slip, but still at a considerable elevation above the sea, the country continuing to the northward in a series of gentle wavy hills, beautifully smooth and rounded, their broad swellingsurfaces unvaried by trees or hedgerows, but covered witli corn. They are of extraordinary value, fruitful on the surface, and containing within them inexhaustible beds of coal. Some of them yield stone for building, and limestone of a very pure quality, which, and as a manure, gives fertility to the whole country round. They terminate along the shore in a range of low cliffs, composed principally of white sandstone, between the strata of which appear at intervals thin layers of a shattcry, slaly stone, with veins of coal. Those cliffs, from the inconipactncss of their structure. 330 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Head. The village is " a place distinguished, from very early times, for its religious and scho- lastic foundations :" having been the seat of a monastery from a very remote period, and in later times distinguished by its Clerical Institution and the Grammar School of Archbishop Grindal, — there is, perhaps, no other place in the north of England, of an otherwise unimportant character, the name of which is so well and so generally known.* have suffered more than common injury from the violence of the sea, and along their whole lines have a most ruinous appearance. The chore is strewed with fragments tumbled together in vast heaps at their base, and here and there a detached mass shews itself above the sea, beyond low water mark. They rise to a considerable height immediately south of Whitehaven, where they are remarkable for the intermixture of rocks that appear on the surface. The main rock is white sand-stone, alterna- ting with strata of red sand-stone, and intersected by frequent layers of slate and coal. The face of the cliif at this point is singularly broken, being divided by seams and fissures of all inclinations, and composing a pile of fragments veiy insecurely held together, with masses projecting from it of various forms, and in various threatening postures. Portions of the rock arc continually falling, and the whole body is in so infirm a state, that a slight concussion is able to bring it in heaps to the groimd. Some guns standing on a fort above it are now never fired, the shock of the explosion having been found sufficient to dislodge these tottering rocks. Two poor women were dashed to pieces here about two years ago, by a falling fragment, which they had brought down by imprudently picking away some coal that lay under it." • In the library of the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle is the following curious account of the discovery of a giant at St. Bees : — "A true report of Hugh Hodson, of Thorneway, in Cumberland, to St Rob. Cewell [qy. Sewell] of a Gyant fotmd at S. Bees, in Cumb'land, 1601, before X\ mas. " The said Gyant was buried 4 yards deep in the groimd, W^h is now a com feild. " He was 4 yards and an half long, and was in complete armour ; his sword and battle-axe lying by him. PARISH OF ST. BF.ES. 331 A bridge over the rivulet Pow or Poe in tlie \'illage bears the date 15S5, and the arms of Archbishop Grindal. This rivulet, called in the language of the country. The Poe Beck,* which divides the Church, School, and College of St. Bees from the village, though small, is very sin- guhu\ It takes its rise nearly in the middle of tlie vale, and in its course is fed by two smaller streams, one called Myre's Beck, the other. Low- hall-gill Beck. After having received these sup- plies it forms itself into, or rather, is absorl^ed by, a large pool or basin, called Scale-gill pit,f " His sword was two spans broad and more than 2 yards long. " The head of his battle axe a yard long, and the shaft of it all of iron, as thick as a man's thigh, and more than 2 yards long. " His teeth were (! inches long, and 2 inches broad ; his forehead was more than 2 spans and a half broad. " His chine bone could containe 3 pecks of oatmeale. " His armour, sword, and battle axe, are at Mr. Sand's of Redington, [Rottington] and at Mr. Wyber's, at St. Bees." —Machel MS S . vol. vi. « Beck for rivulet is fanriliar, not only as a local word, in the north of Kngland, but is retained in tlie names of places in the south, as it is also, with little variation, in the Danish, High and Low Dutch, tongues.— Leodiensis Ducatus, 183. t On the first of March, 1792, " the ground in a meadow, pari of the farm or estate of Stanley, the property of the Right Hon. the Earl of Lonsdale, suddenly sunk to the depth of some feet, making a circular break on the surface. Immediately alter, a torrent of water was heard, which appeared to rush out from various parts of the broken soil, and falling, as it was conjectured, into a receptacle which could not at that time be perceived, occasioned a most tremendous noise, while the shrink- ing was evidently incrcising upon the surftice. In the morning, this extraordinary spot was visited by numbers of people. The aperture then exhibited the appearance of an immense funnel : it was yet enlarging, consequently no admeasurement could be made : but the computation generally agreed to was from GO to 70 yards in diameter, and .30 yards in depth to the vortex, the diameter of which appeared to be about G ur 7 yards. 332 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Avhich serves to supply the steam-engines em- ployed in the collieries with water. From this basin, as from a centre, the little river issues in two directions. The one, taking its meandering course by the Church, &c., falls into the ocean at St. Bees ; the other, being towards White- haven, where, for about a mile from the harbour, it is arched over, passing under the market place, and then mingles with the ocean in the harbour. The Priory of St. Bees.* A small nunnery was founded here about the year 650 by Bega an Irish saint,f from whom the parish takes its name, and where a church was subsequently erected, dedicated in honor of " During this time, large heaps of earth were falling from the sides, and water gushing out in an amazing abundance ; the water also was sometimes forced a considerable height above the vortex, or gulph, as if from a. jet d' eau ; the whole presenting to the eye a scene of the most a\» ful and horrible grandeur, while the ear was filled with soimds the , most terrifying and alarming, often resembling distant thimder, as the deluge poured into the subterraneous workingsofScalegUlcolliery, which, it Ls said, is now rendered useless. It was a land sale colliery of small compass, and the coal nearly exhausted. Providentially, the people employed in it had quitted their work a short time before the sinking happened." — Gentleman's Magazine, 1792. • Preparing for publication. The Life and Miracles of Sancta Bega, the Patroness of the priory of St. Bees. Written by a monkish historian. To which are added. Explanatory Notes and a Preface : by the Rev. G. C. Tomlinson, F.S.A., &c. t From the calender of saints' days it appears that St. Bega or St. Bees is commemorated on the Cth of September ; and St. Bega, virgin, on the 22nd of November. Sancta Bega died the day before the calends of November. — Life of the Saint. Ingulphus mentions a litttle bell at Croyland, which is called Bega. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 333 the foundress. The priory and parish are vari- ously called in ancient evidences — K/rkehi/heluk, K'trklni Begock and Begoth, which latter name is British, and derived from Beg og, signifying little young. Sandford's iM.S..t gives the foUowmg tradition- ary account of the foundation of the nunnery : — "This Abbie, by tradition, built upon this occa- sion, (for the time I refer you to the chronicles) : — That there was a pious religious lady-abbess, and some of her sisters with her, driven in by stormy wether at Whitehaven, and [the] ship cast away ith harbour, and so destitute. And so she went to the lady of Egrcmont castle for reliefe. That lady, a godly woman, pittied her distress, and desn-cd her lord to give her some place to dwell in ; which he did, at the now St. Bees. And she and her sisters sewed and spinned, and wrought carpets and other work, and hved very godly lives, as gott them much love. She de- sired Lady Egrcmont to desire her lord to build them a house, and they would lead a religious life together ; and many wolde joine with them if they had but a house and land to live upon. Wherewith the Lady Egermond was very well pleased, and spoke to her lord he had land enough and [should] give them some to lye up tresure in heaven. And the Lord laughed at the Ladye, and said he would give them as much land as snow fell upon the next morning and m midsummer day. And on the morrow looked out at the castle window to the sea side, 2 miles from Egrcmont, all was white with snow for • Dean and Chapter Library, Carlisle. 2 u 334 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. three miles together. And thereupon builded this St. Bees Abbie, and give all those lands was snowen unto it, and the town and haven of Whitehaven ; and sometimes after, all the tithes therabout, and up the montains and Inerdalc for- rest, eastward, was appropriated to this abbey of St. Bees ; which was got by one Mr. Dacres, of kindred to the Lord Dacres ; gott a long lease of it at fall of Abbies, and married one Mrs. Latos of the beck hall, iNIillom ; who afterwards married Squire Wybridge [Wybergh] of Clifton in West- morland, who purchased the inheritance of this Abbie of the crowne, and sold it to old Sir John Lowther, who gave it to his yonger son. Sir Christopher Lowther, Kt. Bart, soon after." The accounts which are given of the first foundation of the nunnery of Saint Bees, are, as might be expected, contradictory in their charac- ter. The common version is that given in Mr. Sandford's MS., namely, that the extent of the territories of the nunnery were originally desig- nated by a preternatural fall of snow on the eve of St. John's day. Such is the tradition : " Old legends say, to prove her wond'rous right, Still on the eve of midsiin's sacred light, When the deep shades have mantled o'er the skies, The silent forms of shadowy shapes arise, And the mild Saint amid her pious train Retakes with printless steps her course again. And spreads her snow white mantle o'er the plain."* That snow is occasionally seen even now, on midsummer day, on the Cumberland mountains is certain. - A correspondent of the Carhsle • Unpublished MS. PARISH OF ST. BF.ES. 335 Journal, states that on midsummer day, 1 S3S, the snow was lying two feet thick upon Glencowen- dale fell. AN'hether, however, the parish is indehted to tlie legend, for its singular form, or whether the legend has been invented from the shape of the parish, cannot be decided. One thing is certain, that the name of Sancta Bega is insepar- ably connected with the miracle of snow. All accounts agree in this. The Life of Sancta Bega jjlaces the snow miracle many hundred years after the death of the mild saint, in the time of Ran- ulpli Meschines. The monkish historian relates that certain persons had instilled into the ears of that nobleman, that the monks had unduly extended their possessions. A dispute arose on this subject, for the settlement of which, by the prayers of the religious, the whole land became white with snow, except the territories of the church which stood forth dry. It does not appear that the nunnery of Sancta Bega was ever endowed, or that it continued for any length of time as a voluntary society. It is probable enough that it was ruined and dispersed in the Danish wars. Indeed the historian of her life, refers to the Danish ravages, as the cause which wrap])ed in oblivion the tomb of Bega for centuries. But although no succession of Ab- besses has been transmitted to us, and no histo- rian can give us any intelligence of the endow- ment of this nunnery, still it seems scarcely probable that it would have been of such brief duration as is generally supposed. If the bell at (Jroyland abbey were named Bega, in commemo- ration of the Cumbrian Saint, nearly three centuries after the foundation of Saint Bees 2 t 2 336 ALLERDALR WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. nunnery, it would seem as if there had been succes- sors in the nunnery who cherished the name of their first foundress, and transmitted it to posterity. Otherwise the name would scarcely have attracted the notice of Abbot Turketul. Moreover, the recorded fact, that the monastery was afterwards built on the site of the nunnery, is another reason which would induce us to assign a longer existence to the nunnery than is usually supposed. Nearly five centuries elapsed between the foundation of the nunnery and that of the priory, in which time the site would have been forgotten, had the nunnery perished upon the death of Bega. AMio shall now assert that the abbot of Croyland did not attempt to commemorate the name and virtues of the Cumbrian abbess, at a time when he be- held her nunnery visited with a recent but overwhelming desolation, and her name in danger, for the Jirst time, of perishing amidst the ruins of her own foundation ? In the reign of Henry I. William de Meschines, son of Ranulph,* and brother of Ranulph, first Earl of Cumberlandjf restored the religious house, making it a cell of a prior and six Benedictine monks to the mitred abbey of St. Mary of York.;]; By his charter he granted to God, St. Mary of York, and St. Bega, and the monks serving God there, all the woods within their boundaries and * Founder of the priory of Wctheral. f Founder of Calder abbey. X The priory of Ncddrum, in Ulster, was cell to the priory of St. Bees having been granted by Sir John dc Courcy, a descendant of William Meschines. Respecting this Irish dependency of Saint Bees, a small parchment roll considerably mutilated remains in the Cottonian Collection. n consists of nine documents very closely -nTitten, concluding -with a bull of pope Honorius III. dated 1216, confirming the endowment. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 337 every thing within the same, except hart and hind, boar and hawk ; and all liberties within their bounds which he himself had in Coupland, as well on land as on the water both salt and fresh. Ranulph de Meschines, son of the above Wil- liam, confirmed his father's grants to the priory of the church of St. Bees, and seven carucates of land there ; the chapel (capella) ofEgremont, and the tithes of his demesne in Copeland, and of his men there ; and the tithes of all his fish- eries, hogs, venison, pannage, and vaccaries throughout all Copeland ; and the manor of Anenderdalc ; the grant by Waltheof of the church (chapel) of Stainburn ; and Ketel's grant of the church of Preston ; and two bovates of land and one villein, in Rotington ; which Rei- ner gave unto them : and the churches of Whit- tington and Botele, which they had by the gift of Godard : and Swarthoft, given to them by William de Lancastre son of Gilbert. And he granted to them all the woods within their boundaries, from Cuningshaw to the sike between Preston and llensingham, which runs down to Whitehaven, and there falls into the sea; and whatever they can take in those woods, except hart, hind, boar, and hawk.* William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle, by his charter, (circa A.I). 1192,) confirmed to the priory the grants of his ancestors, — fourteen sal- mons which they had by the gift of Alan, son of Waltlieof; and by the same gift, half a carucate of land in Aspatric ; and six acres of land in the • 1 Dugd. Mon., 395. 338 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. same vill, by the gift of the said Alan : and six sahiions, which they had by the gift of the lady Ahce de Romeley ; and half a mark of silver, by the same donation, out of the fulling mill at Cockermouth, and one messuage in the same vill. He also granted to them one mark of silver out of the said fulling mill yearly. " Hiis testi- bus. Domino Galfrido de Chandever. Domino Thoma Keret. Domino "NMUielmo de Ireby. ^^'illielmo de DrifFeld tunc senescallo de Coker- mutha. Alano persona de Caldebec. Hugone de Moricebi. Ada de Haverington. Galfrido de Talentir. Johanne de Brigham, et multis aliis."* By the voucher book of Furness abbey, it appears that the prior of Saint Bees was includ- ed in a commission from Pope Honorius, about the year 1 200. This commission was respecting the right of sepulture at Hawkshead, Dalton, the mother church, being twenty miles distant. In 1315, during the invasion of Robert le Brus, the priory of Saint Bees, togetlier with the manor houses of Stainburn and Cleator, and the western part of Cumberland, were visited by a party of Scots, under the command of James Douglas. The priory was pillaged, and the manor-houses were destroyed. In this occasion, although the religious house fared better than the neighbouring secular ones, still it seems not improbable that the holy prior, and his company of " six monks at the least," would experience that treatment from the liostile Scots, which Sir Walter Scott makes ^^'amba describe in Ivanhoe. • 1 Dugd. Mon., 396. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 339 " Prav for them, with all my heart," says he, "but in the town, not in the green wood, like the abbot (prior) of Saint Bees, whom they caused to say mass, with an old hollow oak tree tor his stall." , r c-^ V \bout the year 1523 the monks of St. bees appear to have been alarmed by a meditated invasion of this "angle of Cowplande." I he following lettert was written by the Prior, Alan- by, to the Lord William Dacre, lord-warden ot the West Marches, praying for help.— To the Lord Dacres. AIv right honorable and myst speciall good Lord, in my most lawley manor I recomende me unto your good Lordship, ever more bescking our Lordo God to reward your good Lordship for me at all tymes. And now as specially as 1 can think, I besiche your good Lordship of your good con- tvnuance. Tor my good Lord, it is thus of surtie, that areat nombre of Shippis are sene upon this Cost both upon Fridaye and Saturdaye last past. And we have warnymg thattiieyareofthe Duke of Albany's company, and w oil land upon us here in Cowplando, and Uestroyo us utterly Wherefore my speciall good Lorde, I bes.che yo"'' good Lordship, to regard this pour cost and countrey whiche be- lon-eth unto your mcrchics and undre your protection, and is n°ot accustomed with sich weres, but only such certe.ii gentilmcn and their company, as your said I'Ordship have called upon heretofore at your time of nede, that )e vol be so goode Lorde now, as to assigne and conimande Mr. Christopher Curwcn of Wirkington and Mr John Lamplew leutenaunt of Cokermouth, and Mr Richard Skelton oi Branthwate, to gyve attcndaunce with the help and aide with the hole company of this litle Angle of Cowplande, o resist and defende the countrey with the grace ot God and prayer of his holy sainctcs, to whomc your Lordship now mayc bynde us ever more to prey for your good prcserva ion and good spcde. And els I cannot see, but this countrey I From a scarce book " Duo rerumAnglicarum scriptores veteres"- Oxon. 1732. 340 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. shalbe utterly destroyed for ever, whiche God forbide, whom I hartely besiche to preserve and prosper your good Lord- ship, with all goodnes, after your deasire. Amen. Scriblyd in hast at Sainct Bees upon Sainct Luke day the evangelist. by your awne dayely bedeman Dan Robert Alanby, Prior of Sainct Bees aforesaid.* An inspeximus was dated at St. Bees, Septem- ber 1], 1473, by Henry Percy, fourth Earl of Northumberland, and lord of the honor of Cockermouth, of the charter of William de For- tibus, earl of Albermarle. " In the reign of Henry IV. a Richard Hunte was appointed to Saint Bees, as a free chapelry in the gift of the Crown, but the abbot of Saint JMary's remonstrated with the King, and the grant was revoked. Bishop Tanner mentions that under this cell there was a small nunnery situate at Rottington, about a mile from St. Bees. This is confirmed by the ancient names of places still retained there, but few other vesti- ges are now to be found." Whilst on the subject of the priors of St. Bees, their rank as barons of the Isle of Man cannot justly be overlooked. As the abbot of the superior house, St. Mary's, at Yoi'k, was entitled to a seat amongst the parliamentary barons of England, so the prior of St. Bees was Baron of the Isle of i\Ian. As such he was obliged to give his attendance upon the kings and lords of Klan, whensoever they required it, or at least, upon every new succession in the government. The neglect of this important privilege w'ould * This letter, according to Hoame, was written A.D. 1523, 15 Henry VIII. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 341 probably involve the loss of the tithes and lands in that island, which the devotion of the kings had conferred on the priory of St. Bees. An abbot from Ireland, and another from Scotland, were also constrained by the same religious hberality, to appear in INIan, as Barons, when called upon. In a list of the possessions of St. INIary's abbey at York, ( Falor Ecclesiasi/cics, Henry VIII.) the priory of St. Bees is valued as follows : — Com' Cu'br'. Cella Sancte Bcge in Com Cu/nbr'. Joh'es Poule Incumbens. Temp'al' valent in £ «■ d. Scit' cella pdict'. valet in terr' dnic'. cu. } ^^ __ _ claus' ibm. p. annu. S Libis. lirm' divs'. libos. tenenciu. indivs'."^ dnijs. &: villat' subscript' viz in villat' dc Homsjngham xxiiijj.-. Kybton cu. ptin'. p. annu. xxs. Ilarras p. annu. x\d. & p. divs'. terr' int' aquas de Eske & Dodyn Ixxijs. U}d. Et reddit' & firm divs'. dnios. terr' &tentos. tcnon- ciu. ad volut'. dni. p. annu. viz manc- riu. de Slanburnc cu. ptin'. p. annu. xj/. vijs. \d. Kyrkeby IJccok cu. mo- lendino & patis. xvl. ij«. iiij(^. Lowke- rige p. annu. vjs. vijJ. ob' Wodend p. annu. x*. Catgill p. annu. xviijcZ. Wray p. annu. ij.s. M allon cu. ptin'. p. annu. XXX*. Sandwatlb cu. ptin'. p. annu. vij/. xjs. iij'i. Hotyngton cu. ptin'. p. annu. vijs. h\yl. Preston IIowsc cu. ptin'. p. annu. xxiiij.v. Whilhancwod p. annu. xiijs. iiijd. Uescow Pke. p. annu. xs. Aralhnaytc cu. ptin'. p. ann' xxxiiijs. AVhilhaven cu. ptin'. p. annu. liiijs. Flatt cu. ptin'. p. annu. xxvjs. \u'}d. Blakenthvaytc p. annu. viijs. Corkgill 2 X £ Vlxij r s. d. X ob' 342 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. p. annu. iiij*. Hensyngham, cu. ptin'. xxxvjs. viijrf. Wynder & Rowray cu. ptin'. p. annu. Ixxvijs. viij(?. Clifton cu. ptin'. iijs. Wyrkyngton cu. ptin'. p. annu. xxjs. Cokerraouth xv*\ Talan- tyre cu. ptin'. ixs. Aspatry cu. ptin'. p. annu. viijs. viijcZ. Whynbanke cu. ptin'. p. annu. vjs. \}d. molcndin' bladal' xh. In toto p annu. JFestm'V. Temp'aV val' in £ s. Reddit' & firm' de una claus' in Kendalc p. ^ annu. Cu'br'. Sp'ual' val' in Exit' &; pfic'. decim' garbas. & feni ac alias, decimabil' & oblac' ecclie. See. Bege & de capellis infa. pochia. ibra. viz de capellis de Lowswat. Evdale. Esshdale &, Wasdall coibz. annis Pquis'. cur' ibm. singlis. annis £ s. cxlix xix d. Sma. valoris huj. celle D' quibz Repris'. Feod' videl't Johi. Lamplough militisen- } ^^^ ^.jj- lo. terr' celle pdict'. S ' Crisofora Culwen militisen- ? lo. de Stanburne ), Rico. Orfer senlo. cur' cell' pd'. Johi. Nicholson ballio de Kyrkebybecok Willmo. Poule rec' pecun' ^ ibm. Et tribz. ballivis de Coupe- land in feod' viz Johi. Ponsonby iijs. iuyl. An- tonio Patrikson iij«. iiijrf. &. Thome Tobson iijs. iii^d. p. annu. In toto — XX vj VIIJ d. vj ob' £ s. cxlix xix d. vj ob" xxvj VllJ >^. s. iij d. iiij PARISH OF ST. BKES. 343 Snia. repris' pz supa. • £ s. d. Et val' clare cxliij xvj ij ob' Xma. ps. inde xiiij vij vij ob' On the dissolution, the revenues of this priory, according to Dugdale, were 143/. lis. 2f/. ; or, by Speed's valuation, 1 19/. 19s. Gd. From these statements it appears that there were only two religious houses in the county more amply endowed than the priory of St. Bees.* How lamentable a fact that from the revenues of this house, equalling about 3000/. per annum of the modern value of money, the parish was sacrilegiously robbed not only of the endowments which had been appropriated for works of charity and education, but even of a suitable maintenance for its ministers, "to whom pertaineth the service of God," and to such an extent, that, in 1705, the church was certified of only the annual value of 12/. ! ^\ by was not a portion of its revenues appropriated to similar purposes as those founda- tions of later piety — the College and the Free Grammar School ? Reformation would have been accomplished, and more efficiently, without sacrilege, had the voices of Latimer, and Cranmer, and other churchmen prevailed.f • The priory of Ilolme-Cultram, aud tlie priory of St. Mary, Carlisle: ihe latter was constituted a cathedral-church at the Reformation. + A modem publication, " A Sketch of the Reformation in England," by the Rev. I. J. Blunt, Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge, con- tains the following judicious remarks : — " Cranmer was i;ol (as may be well believed) an unconcerned specta- tor of this great revolution in the possessions of the church; but though he agreed with Cromwell in the desire of tlie dissolution, he differed from him with regard to the application of the proceeds. Indeed, tlic views 2x2 344 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Edward VI. in the seventh year of his reign (1553) granted to Sir Thomas Chaloner, knight, they respectively took of the nature of ecclesiastical property do not appear to liavc coincided. The one was rather acting in a political, the other in a religious spirit. Cromwell was concerned to right the monarchy, Cranmer to save a church. The former was for the suppres- sion of the religious houses, because the supremacy of the crown could not be otherwise secured ; the latter had this for his object too, but still more the annihilation of the abuses of purgatory, masses for the dead, saint-worship, and pilgrimage, of all which the abbeys were the incor- rigible patrons. So far, therefore, they went hand in hand. But in the disposal of the vast fund which accrued from the confiscation of the church estates, Cranmer did not, like Cromwell and (he parliament, regard it as a matter for the king to take his pastime with, according to . his own mere will and motion. Kor would he dissipate, nor did he think it lawful to divert from its original destination, and that the pro- motion of God's glory, so ample a revenue, and make it over at once, and for secular purposes only, to the crown. He, therefore, was for considering it as still a sacred treasure, to be applied to sacred ends ; and out of the old and corrupted monasteries ho was desirous to see arise new and better foundations : houses attached to all the cathedrals, to sen-e as nurseries for the clergy of the diocese in religion and learning ; an addition made to the incomes of the inferior class ; and the number of sees increased, with a corresponding diminution in their extent, that tlic bishop might be in deed as well as in name the overseer. To these wise and good propositions Latimer added another, no less commendable, that a few of the greater abbeys should be left for pious and charitable uses. For the priory of Malvern, above all, he intercedes with great earnestness ; not that it ' should stand in monkery, but so as to be con- verted to preaching, study, and prayer ;' and then he adds, ' Alas ! my good Lord' (it is to Cromwell that he makes his fruitless appeal), 'shall we not see two or three in every shire changed to such remedy ?' " As a further proof of the honest motives which had actuated many in their spoliation of the church, the very men who had been denoimced as unfit to live whilst they were monks, were now inducted into bene- fices and stalls by the parties to whom the spiritual welfare of the people, forsooth, had been so dear an object, in order that they might be thus PAUISII OF ST. BEES. 3i5 the manor, rectory, and cell of St. Bees, with all its rights, members, and appurtenances, and all relieved from the payment of the pitiful pension with whicli their pro- perty was charged for their support. " Another defect imputed to the Re'ormation is the inadequate support it provided for the lower orders of the clergy. Four thousand livings, and upwards, of less than one hundred and fifty pounds a year each, nianv very far less, with no parsonage houses whatever, or with such as the most Sabine economist would pronounce unfit for a clergyman to oc- cupy ; — this is the forlorn condition, as to temporals, in which the church has stood for a long season ; a condition to which it could not liave been reduced, had even a portion of the vast revenues dispersed at the Re- formation been husbanded, and applied to the legitimate purpose of bettering the situation of the inferior clergy. " Church endowments in general, and tithes in particular, were goods set apart for the promotion of religion from time immemorial, the posses- sor of a manor erecting upon it a church, and charging it for ever with the maintenance of a man whose business it should be to teach the peo- ple upon it llic law of God, and thus acknowledging on his own part his tenure to be under God, ' the land His, and himself a stranger and so- journer with Him.' This was the origin of parishes ; the parish co-ex- tensivc (as it is still almost always found) with the manor, so that even where the latter chances to have a part distant and detached, the parish, however inconvenient it may be for pastoral superintendence and in- struction, usually claims it too. The fulfilment of the conditions annex- ed to these grants, it was only equitable that the donor and his lieirs should exact and regulate ; they were tlif natural guardians of the charities ; and when the lapse of years, the course of events, and public convenience, had caused this guardianship to devolve upon the state, the state, like any other guardian, had a right to superintend the trust so as to carry into cflect the designs of the donor, but no right whatever to alienate it, apply it to purposes of its own, and thereby frustrate those intentions. It had a right, for instance, to provide the best religious instruction which was to be had, even though it was such as the bene- factor had not contemplated ; and to exclude such as was found, on a more intimate knowledge of the subject, to be erroneous, even though it was such OS the benefactor had sanctioned; it being obvious that his 346 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. the possessions belonging to the same in St. Bees and Ennerdale, and elsewhere in the county of intention was to guide, not to mislead, those for -whom he had show-n so lively an interest ; but it had no right to withhold all religious instruction whatever, dispose of the trust to the best bidder, and putting the produce in its pocket, say that it was corban. " Whoever might be the advisers of the measure, out of the spoils of the monasteries six new bishoprics were founded, — those of Westminster (since suppressed), Chester, Gloucester, Peterborough, Oxford, and Bristol, together with deaneries and prebends respectively annexed, all slenderly endowed, and upon the whole a sad falling oft' from the splendid expectations wh'ch the king had originally held forth of eighteen new sees, together with a proportional number of suifragans, — ex'pectations which the act of suppression had encouraged, and by which many were reconciled to the confiscation of church property, as hoping that it was only to be fused and cast into a better mould. Its authors, however, ' liked not that paying again ; it was double trouble.' Accordingly they compounded with the creditor, and the dividend (with the addition of funds for the endowment of some of the metropolitan hospitals, a few professorships in either university, and a college in Cam- bridge,) was what wo have seen. The cathedrals fared better than the monasteries; having been hitherto in the hands of the regulars, they were now put upon the same footing as the new institutions of the like kind, and their revenues appropriated to the maintenance of secular dignitaries." " The progress of the Reformation was attended (as all great national convulsions are) with many and sad excesses. The work of destruction, when long continued, is in itself a thing which hardens the heart; and the Reformation was full of it. Monk and nun iHmed out of house and home, pensioned indeed, but (except in the case of superiors, who were treated with more lenity) pensioned with a miserable equivalent ; their dwelling-places, beautiful as many of them were, laid low, that all hope of return might be cut off; their cells surrendered to the bats and owls ; their chapels made a portion for foxes, the mosaic pavements torn up, the painted windows dashed in pieces, the bells gambled for, or sold into Russia and other countries, though often before they reached their desti- nation buried in the ocean— all and utterly dismantled, save where, hap. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 317 Cumberland (not granted away by the crown before) ; to hold to the said Thomas Chaloner, his heirs and assigns, in fee farm for ever, of the king, his heirs and successors, as of his manor of Sheriff-IIutton in Yorkshire, in free and common socage, by fealty only, and not in cap'tte ; paying to the crown yearly the fee farm rent of 113/. 16s. 2\d. In the 1th and 5th Pliilip and Mary (1557), the king and queen granted to C'uthbert Scot, Bishop of Chester, and his successors, tlie said yearly rent, subject to the payment of 43/. Ss. 4d. per annum to the crown. The AVybergh family succeeded Sir Thomas Chaloner in the possession of the estates, who having been sufferers for their loyalty during pening to be parish churches also, as was the case at [St. Bees,] St. .\I- ban's, Tewkesbury, Malrern, and elsewhere, they were rescued in whole, or in part, from Henry's harpies, by the petitions or the pecuniary con- tributions of the pious inhabitants ; libraries, of which most monasteries contained one, treated by their new possessors with barbaric contempt ; 'some books reserved for their jakes, some to scour their candlesticks, some to rub their boots, some sold to the grocers and soap-boilers, and some sent over sea to bookbindci-s, not in small numbers, but at times whole shipsful, to the wondering of foreign nations ; a single merchant purchasing at forty shillings a piece two noble libraries to be used as grey paper, and such as having already sufliced for ten years were abun- dantly enough (says the oye-wituess whose words are here quoted) for many years more' ; these were some cf the coarser features of those times ; howbeit there were many besides these. For the churches were treated with gross irreverence ; horses and mules were led tlirough them ; they were profaned by dogs and liawks, by doves and owls, by stares and choughs ; they were plundered of their plate by church- wardens, or other powerful parishioners, who might argue, that if they spared, others would spoil ; or who might wish ill to the cause of the Reformation, and take such means to scandalise it." 348 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. the Gi'eat Rebellion, mortgaged St. Bees to the Lowther family ; and on a suit instituted by Sir John Lowther of Whitehaven, the equity of re- demption was foreclosed, and the estate decreed in chancery to him and his heirs, in the year 1663, in which family it has still remained, and now forms part of the possessions of the Earl of Lonsdale. In 1622, Bishop Bridgman, who then held the see of Chester, ordered the inhabitants ot the five chapelries of Eskdale, Ennerdalc, ^^'asdale- Head, Nether-Wasdale, and Loweswater, to contribute to the repairs of this, the mother church. In 1705, the church of St. Bees was certified by James Lowther, Esq., of Whitehaven, the impropriator, at 12/. per annum. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the impropriation and pa- tronage of the Earl of Lonsdale. In 1723, a dispute arose between the then in- cumbent of St. Bees, the Rev. R. Jackson,* and the curates of the old and new chapels in Whitehaven. The subject of this dispute was the right to certain fees, in respect of these chapel- ries, claimed by Mr. Jackson, as the clergyman of the mother church. In consequence of this jurisdiction being disputed, application was made to the bishop, who confirmed the right of the incumbent of Saint Bees church, to certain fees, on the baptisms, churchings, &c., solemnized in the dependent chapelries. By a memorandum, dated May 26, 1 724, and now remaining at Saint • This gentleman was for the long period of fifty-two years, Master of the Grammar school, as appears by his tombstone in the church. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 349 Bees, Mr. Jackson assents to and notifies the bishop's regulation, " Salvo jure matris ecclesije, salva authoritate canorum ecclesiae, authoritate Reverendi in Xto. patris Episcopi Cestriensis, et durante beneplacito nostro, et successorum nieorum." The conventual church is in the usual form of a cross, and consists of a nave with aisles, a choir, and transepts, with a low square tower at the intersection. The south side of the priory is sheltered with trees. The cemetery is on the north side. The house of the Principal of the college is near the west end. The tower has an embattled parapet, and a turret at the north-east angle, containing a very narrow staircase. The old bells were removed, and their places are supplied by three modern ones. The roof commands a fine view of the sea and the vale of St. Bees. The west front of the nave has three lancet windows, and a Norman doorway with chevron mouldings, in some places ornamented with the l)eak head. This is much defaced by the weather. On the south side of the nave there was formerly a wooden figure, in mail armour, supposed to have been the effigies of Anthony, the last Lord Lucy of Egremont, who died, A.D. 13G8. The nave has north and south aisles, with six pointed arches on each side, alternately octagonal and circular, excepting one which is clustered. Two of the arches are walled up for a west gallery ; near this is the font, the upper part containing the basin is hexagonal, and supported on a round pedestal. The windows on the north and south 2 V 350 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. sides are barbarous insertions, in the very worst taste. Those in the clerestory are of two round headed hghts. The nave is now used as the parish church. The south ti'ansept has been used for a cem- etery, and contains some monumental inscrip- tions, but none of an old date. The north transept contains the college library. Here is a portrait, by Lonsdale, of the late Principal, Dr. Ainger, in his academical dress as a doctor in divinity. The choir, which had been a roofless ruin for two centuries, was fitted up as a lecture-room for the college, in 1S17, at the expence of Wil- liam, Earl of Lonsdale. The south aisle is gone, and the arches, which are pointed, are walled up, with sash windows inserted. " I'he interior ar- rangement at the east end of the choir is singu- lar ; three beautiful lancets rise from a string, the centre one being higher and wider, as is usually the case, and between each are two tiers of niches, one above the other, having clustered shafts and oi'namental capitals, and a common dripstone runs round the whole. The north side of the choir is lighted by a series of lancets, having single shafts set on the sides, the interior sliiifts being plain, whilst the exterior are filleted." The communion-plate appears to have been presented by the benevolent archbishop, whose memory is so intimately connected with the place, as the founder of the Free Grammar School. It bears the date, 1571, and the arms of the archiepiscopal see of York, impaled with those of Grindal. Near the steps leading up to the college are PARISH OF ST. BEES. 351 two mutilated stone figures, to which common report has assigned the names of Lord and Lady- Lucy ; the sculpture appears to be of great antiquity.* • In tlicir original state, they were of gigantie size. The features and legs are now destroyed. The Lord is represented with liis sword sheath- ed, but whether indicative of being vanquished in battle, a paucity of information on this subject must leave undecided. There is a shield on his arm, which appears to have been quartered, but the bearings upon it are entirely defaced, so that even fancy, usually sufficiently creative, is in this case, unable to detect any semblance of the three pikes, or lueies, thereon, which might have been expected. On the breast of the Lady is an unshapely protuberance, which the incurious would totally disregard, and tlie enquiring be troubled to account for. This was origi- nally the roughly sculptured limb of a wolf, which even so lately as the year 1806, might be distinctly ascertained. These figures were formerly placed in an horizontal position, at the top of two raised altar tombs, placed at no great distance from their present locality. The tomb of the Lady was at tlie feet of her Lord, and a wolf was represented as standing over it. The protuberance above mentioned, on the breast of the Lady, was the paw of the wolf, and all that now remains of the animal. About a cenlm'y since, the figure of the wolf wanted but one leg, as many of the inhabitants, whose immediate ancestors remembered it nearly entire, can testify. The horizontal position of the figures, rendered them pecu- liarly liable to injuries, from the silent and irresistible ravages of time. Their present state is, however, principally to be attributed to the falling in of the outer walls of the priory, and more particularly to the fact of having been used, many years since, by the boys of the free grammar school, as a mark to fire at. It is supposed that the limb of the wolf has reference to a melancholy catastrophe which happened to one of the Ladies Liicy, (see page 15) who in walking through the neighbouring woods, was attacked by this animal and destroyed. Such is the tradition. It may not however be unworthy of remark, that the Lueies were con- nected, through the family of Meschincs, with Hugh de Abrincis, Earl of Chester, who in 1070 bore azure a wolf's head erased argent, and who had the surname of Lupus. "Be y' nolid that Wyllyam Myschcn son of Ranolf Lord of Egre- mond founded the monastery of Saint Beysse of blake monks. And 2 Y 2 352 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. On the north side of the church is part of an ancient cross. Its situation is remarkable, as tliose in tliis county are almost invariably placed on the south side. The registers commence in 153S, and are, perhaps, the most perfect in the county. In the church-yard, on the north side of the nave, is a tombstone inscribed to the memory of the late Rev. W. Ainger, D.D.— Here lieth the body of WILLIAM AINGER, D D. formerly Fellow of St. John's College Cambridge, Prebendary of the Cathedral-Church of Chester, first Principal of the Clerical College of St. Bees, and 24 years Perpetual Curate of this Parish. He died 20th October, 1840, aged 55 years. I wait for the Lord, my soul doth wait, and in tis word do I hope. A monument, with a bust by Lough, will shortly be erected in memory of the deceased Principal. lieyres to the said Meschyn y^ the Lords Fitzwal. the Lord Haryugton, and the Lord Lucy, and so restyth founders of the said monastery therlc of Sussex the Lord Marques Dorset, therle of Northumberland as heyres to the Lords aforesaid." — MS. Ilarl. Coll. The family of Meschines is said to be descended from that at Rome called by the name Maecenas, from which word the former one is corrupted. Certainly it has proved itself the Macenas of the priory of St. Bees, not merely in the foundation of that religious house, but also in the charters for a long course of years, which have been granted by persons of dif- ferent names, indeed, but descended from, or connected with, the same beneficent slock. parish of st. bees. 353 The College. This Institution, for the instruction of candi- dates for lioly orders, was estabhshed in 1 SI 7 by the Right Reverend George Henry Law, D.D. Lord Bishop of Chester (now of Bath and Wells). The first Principal of the college was the Rev. William Ainger, B.D. (afterwards D.D.) who was also perpetual curate of St. Bees. Bishop Law gave 200/. to procure from Queen Ann's bounty the further sum of 300/. to build the Princi- pal's house. The choir of the priory-church, which had been roofless for upwards of two centuries, was repaired and fitted up for the purposes of the Institution, at the expence of the Right Honor- able William, Earl of Lonsdale. On the death of Dr. Ainger, which occurred 20th October, 1840, the Rev. Robert Pcdder Buddicom, M.A., F.A.S., was appointed Principal by the present Lord Bishop of Chester, Dr. J. B. Sunnier. The theological-lecturer is the \{e\. D. Anderson, ISI.A. The present number of students is 49. One of the lecture-rooms is used as the library, and contains some valuable works. Here is a full-length portrait of the late Dr. Ainger, the first Principal of the college,paintedby Lonsdale, partly at the expence of the students. " The students, previous to admission, are expected to be well versed in the Classics, so that the course of study does not exceed two years. In this period the standard divinity works are diligently studied, and such principles inculcated as are likely to form faithful ministers of the Gospel, who, as far 354 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. as their spheres for exertion will permit, may be able to preserve the chmxh in its original purity, free from those errors which indistinct notions are apt to engender." "Who with the ploughshare clove the barren moors, And to green meadows changed the swampy shores ? Thinned the rank woods ; and for the cheerful grange Made room where wolf and boar were used to range? Who taught, and showed by deeds, that gentler chains Should bind the vassal to his lord's domains? The thoughtful Monks, intent their God to please, For Clirist's dear sake, by human sympathies Poured from the bosom of thy Church, St. Bees! " But all availed not ; by a mandate given Through lawless will the Brotherhood was driven Forth from their cells; — their ancient House laid low In Reformation's sweeping overthrow. But now once more the local Heart revives. The inextinguishable Spirit strives. Oh may that Power who hushed the stormy seas, And cleared a way for the first Votaries, Prosper the new-born College of St. Bees!" — iVordswortk. The Free Grammar-School. In the year 15S3, Edmund Grindal, Archbishop of Canterbury, (a native of Hensingham, in this parish,) intending to found a school here, applied to Queen Elizabeth, who, by her letters patent, dated 24th April, 15S3, granted that there should be a grammar school in Kirkby Beacock or Saint Beghcs, to be called "The Free Grammar School of Edmund (irindal. Archbishop of Canterbury." It was provided that there should be seven gov- ernors,^ — the provost of Queen's College, Oxford, and the rector of Egremont for the time being, always to be two, John Lamplugh, of Lamplugh, PARISH OF ST. BF.ES, 355 Esq., Robert Sandes, of Rottington, Esq., AVil- liam Davies, of St. Bees, gentleman, Richard Skelton, of Walton, yeoman, and Robert Grin- dal, of Hensingham, yeoman, to be the first governors. In case of death it was provided that the vacancy should be filled up by the sur- vivors. During the life of the founder, he was to have the nomination of the master ; but after his death that power was to be vested in the provost of Queen's College, O.xford, if " a person of learn- ing," and a native of one of the counties of Cum- berland, AVestmorland, York, and Lancaster. If he should neglect for two months, then the master of Pembroke-Hall is to nominate. The statutes and ordinances drawn up by the archbishop for the governance of his grammar- school, bear date the 3rd of July, 1583 ; and the pious founder appointed certain lands, &c., to be purchased of the yearly value of 50/. for the maintenance of his school, to be employed as follows : — Imprimis, for the finding of one Fellow and two Scholars in Pembroke-hall, according to special statutes appointed for the same £20 Item, to the Schoolmaster . . . 20 Item, to the Usher 3 6 8 Item, to the Eeceiver, for his fee . . 10 Item, for the dinner at the annual meeting of the Governors . . . . . 13 4 £4[> The residue, with all penalties and fines paid, to be appropriated in repairs and other necessary charges. The archbishop died 6th July, 1583, before 356 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. the foundation was fully completed, leaving 500/. in the hands of his executors, for the purchase of lands of the annual value of 30/. for the fur- ther maintenance of the school. A second patent, reciting and confirming the former, was granted by Queen Elizabeth, 15th June, 1585. James I. by letters patent, dated 25th June, 1604, in augmentation of the endowment of this school, granted sixteen messuages or tenements in Sandwith, late parcel of the possessions of the priory of St. Bees, with pasture for 300 sheep on Sandwith marsh ; forty-eight messuages in Kirk- by Begog, parcel of the manor of St. Bees, with divers quit-rents, foggage, and after-pastures in certain fields there ; a yearly rent of 16s. Sr/., called Walk-mill silver, payable in common among the tenants of the manor of St. Bees ; a rent of 24s. out of the manor of Hensingham ; and four messuages in Hensingham and ^^'ray ; — all of which were parcel of the lands and posses- sions of Sir Thomas Chaloner, knight, deceased, and of the yearly rent of 28/. 8.$. Q\d. ; to be holden as of the manor of Sheriff-Hutton, co. York, in free soccage. These grants were soon after confirmed by act of parliament. In the year 1629, AMlliam Lickbarrow, the master, addressed a petition to the Bishop of Chester, in which he complained of the state and misgovernment of the school, that the statutes were not observed, nor the arrears of rent paid, and that during sixteen years' labour, " both in schole and church," he had received nothing but calumny and abuse. Sir John Lowther, who died in 1705, gave 5/. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 357 per annum, and a valuable library to this school ; to wliich Sir Joseph Williamson, Secretary of state to Charles II., made considerable additions. Dr Lamplugh, Archbishop of York, also gave 5/. per annum to the library, but this has been withdrawn. Bishop Barlow presented some valuable books. William, Earl of Lonsdale, has also been a benefactor to this institution. The site of the school and the master's house was given by Thomas Chaloner, Esq.* The increased revenues of the school arise chiefly from coal pits : the royalty of St. Bees belongs to the school. The school is in reality free only to the coun- ties of Cumberland and Westmorland, although no distinction is now made : every scholar pre- senting the head-master and the second-master with an annual offering (called a Cock-penny,) on Shrove Tuesday, varying according to the means and inclinations of the donors. The children ot the poor of the parish pay merely the fourpence reciuired by the statutes. The number of scholars has greatly varied,— it has exceeded 150, and is now reduced to 30. The present governors are, — The Right Hon- orable William, Earl of Lonsdale, K.G. ; the Rev John Fox, D.D., Provost of Queen's College, Oxford, ex officio ; the Rev. William Henry Leech, Rector of Egi-emont, ex officio ; Humphrey Sen- . By an indenture, made 28lli Elizabeth, Thomas Chaloner, of Gray's Inn Esq., gave the ground on which the school was built, and also 40 loads of coals at his coal-pits in St. Bees, for the use of the school. In consideration of these gifts, two boys, to be called Chaloner's scholars. were to be placed in the school by the said Thomas Chaloner and his hciis for ever ; they do not, however, avail themselves of that privilege. 2 z 358 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. house, Esq., of Nether Hall ; Major Spedding, Summergrove, Whitehaven; Edward Stanley, Esq., RI.P., Ponsonby Hall ; and the Rev. Alex- ander Scott, M.A., Bootle. There are two exhibitions of 251. per annum each, at Queen's College, Oxford, (founded by Dr. Thomas, Bishop of Rochester,) for the sons of clergymen of the diocese, and educated at the grammar-schools of Carlisle and St, Bees. A St. Bees scholar has also the privilege of becoming a candidate for one of the five valuable exhibi- tions founded by the Lady Elizabeth Hastings. There are two scholarships and one fellowship at Queen's College, Oxford, for scholars of St. Bees. The nomination is in the College. Bishop Hall, Master of Trinity College, Dub- lin, was educated at this school, as was probably also Archbishop Sandys. The head-master has a comfortable dwelling- house, adjoining the school, upon which William, Earl of Lonsdale, expended 700/. His lordship made additions to the library in 1S03, and fitted it up with book-cases. The present head-master is the Rev. John Fox, INLA., and the usher or second-master is Mr. James Armstrong. In 1815, the revenue of the school was 112/. 10s., exclusive of the house and garden for the master, and about five acres of land. The present revenue is about 75/. The school-house is a plain substantial build- ing, near the church. Over the door are the in- itials of the benevolent founder and the following inscription : — E 1587 G ' INGREDERE UT PROFICIAS as 3 S ¥ ^ ^ PARISH OF ST. BEES. 359 List of Head Masters. 158 . Nicholas Copelande, B. A. .... William Brisco, occurs 1610. .... William Lickbarrow, occm'S 1623. .... Rev. R. Jackson.* .... Rev. John Hutchinson, INI. A.f 179 . Rev. John Barnes, M. A.J 181 . Rev. Wilham Wilson, M. A.|| 1817 Rev. Thomas Bradley, M. A. 1830 Rev. John Fox, M. A.§ Whitehaven is a large and opulent sea-port and market-town, 307 miles N.W. from London, and 42 miles S.W. from Carlisle. It is seated on the Irish Sea, near a small creek which forms the harbour, bounded and overlooked on the other sides by green hills which rise abruptly from the outskirts of the town. In the sixteenth century Whitehaven was so inconsiderable a place as to be unnoticed by Camden. It owes its rise to its present rank as a sea-port to the exertions of the family of the Earl of Lonsdale, who have been lords of the manor for about two centuries. • Ob. 1738, aged 80, vicar of Barton, 33 years minister of the parish, and 52 years head master of the Grammar School. + FcUow of Queen's College, Oxford ; oh. at Egrcmont, 1794. X Curate of Loweswaler, a native of Red-hall, near Wigton, ob. 1810. II Mr. Wilson published an expurgated edition of Juvenal, with Eng- jiah notes. Collectanea Thcologica, and Cliristiana; Pietatis Prima Insti- tutio. Now D.D. vicar of Holy-Rhood, Southampton. J Of Queen's College, Oxford ; a nephew of the Rev. John Fox, D.D., provost of that college. 2 z 2 360 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The town is very regularly built, the streets intersecting each other at right angles, and con- tains, as do the suburbs, many good mansions. A market on Thursday, and a yearly fair on the 1st of August, were granted to Sir John Lowther, Bart., by Charles II. in 1660. There are now three weekly markets — Tuesday, Thurs- day, and Saturday. The fair of late years has been held on the 12th of August, but it is now nearly obselete.* "The Cumberland Pacquet," published at Whitehaven by Mr. Robert Gibson, is the oldest newspaper in the county, having been established in 1774. Two other newspapers have been published here — " ' Tlie Chronicle,' which lived only a short period, and the ' Gazette,' which was continued from 1819 to 1826, when it was purchased and annihilated by the proprietor of the ' Pacquet'." Another newspaper, " The Whitehaven Herald," was commenced in about 1830 : and is now published by Mr. George Irwin. Whitehaven is called in ancient records, Qxvit- ofthaven, Whitofthaveu, and Whyttothaveyi (i. e. White-toft-haven), and is supposed by some to derive its name from the whiteness of the rocks near the harbour, when compared with the dark red sand-stone about St. Bees Head ; others er- roneously think the name arose from the circum- stance of the first fisherman who frequented the bay, being of the name of White, and that he built a small cottage here in the Old Town, over the door of which was carved the date 1592.f • In tlie year 1792 there was "a diligence once a week" from White- haven to Carlisle. t This house feU down in 1817. PARISH OF ST. BKES. 361 This latter supposition cannot be correct, as iu the Register of the priory of St. Bees the place is very frequently mentioned, at a much older period, as Witoftltavcn and Qxvitofthctven, — suffi- cient evidence to prove the fallacy of the latter etymology. " It was belonging to St. Begh's of antient time, for the Abbot of York, in Edward I's time, was impleaded for wreck, and his liberties tliere, by the king, which he claimed from the foundation, to be confirmed by Richard Lucy, in King John's time, to his predecessors." In the reign of Queen Elizabeth (A. D. \5GQ), as appears from a survey of the shipping and trade of the county of Cumberland, taken by virtue of a commission under the great seal, Whitehaven was a small fishing village, contain- ing six houses. The only vessel belonging to the place was a pickard of eight or nine tons, employed in fishing. And in 1582, the Earl of Lincoln, Lord High-Admiral, having commanded a general muster of ships and mariners within the county, there were only twelve small ships, under SO tons, and 198 mariners and fishermen in the county. In the return of ships at the time of the Spanish invasion, the Bee of White- haven, 10 tons, appears as the largest belonging to the county. The lands here, which had formerly belonged to the Priory of St. Bees, were bought by Sir Christopher Lowther, (second son of Sir John Lowtlier, of Lowther,) who settled at this place during the life-time of his father. His mansion was at the west end of the town, at the foot of 362 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. the rock.* Sir John, dying in 1644, was succeeded by his son and heir. Sir John Lowther, who built a new niansion-house, (on the site of the Castle,) described by Mr. T. Denton, in 16SS, as " a stately new pile of building, called the Flatt." At this period, as appears from an old print, " The South-east Prospect of Whitehaven in the year 1642," Whitehaven consisted of about forty houses ; " the little old chapel," mentioned by Nicolson and Burn, was an humble edifice, with a bell-turret, and a cross at the east end. A few pack-horses, probably just arrived fi-om Kendal, over Hardknot and Wrynose, (see page 188), are seen approaching the town along a road strewed with large stones, and partly overgrown with grass. This chapel was situated in Chapel-street : the burial-ground extended to the bank in Lowther- street. In May, 1S31, when excavating for the foundations of the bank, a number of skulls and bones were found here, and a tomb-stone, with this inscription : — Here lieth the body of Rodger Browne who died Ivly 25, 1654. In connection with this, the Rev. W. Ainger, D.D., principal of the college of St. Bees, copied the following entry from the parish register : — "Anno Dni., 1654, 27th day of July, Rodger Browne, a Welshman, buried." * There are yet remaining in this part of the town two ancient houses which bear marks of having "seen better days;" and have, in all probability, been the mansions of some of the principal families in the town. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 363 About the year 1666, Sir John Lowther, of Whitehaven, obtained from Cliarles II. a gi-ant of all the "derehct land at this place," which yet remained in the Crown; and in 167S, all the lands between high and low water marks, for two mdes northward, on payment of a yearly rent to the Crown The latter grant contamed about 150 acres being in breadth 200 yards. " Sir John havin'^ thus laid the foundation of the future impoilance of Whitehaven, commenced his great work, and lived to see a small obscure village, which in 1G33 had consisted only of nine thatched cottages, grown up into a thriving and populous town; which in 1G93 contained 2,222 mhabit- Apier was erected by Sir John Lowther be- fore 1687. Mr. T. Denton describes the harbour as rendered so commodious by it, as to be cap- able of containing a fleet of 100 sail. From this period, Whitehaven rose to com- mercial importance in a steady yet rapid manner : in 1685, there were 46 vessels belonging to this port, exclusive of boats, of from 12 to 94 tons, equal to 1871 tons. The largest of these the Resolution, of 94 tons, was "commanded by Richard Kelsick, in which he crossed the Western Ocean oftener than once to the province of Vir- ginia, and there took in a cargo of tobacco, and discharged the same at Whitehaven." One of the most important historical tacts connected with the annals of Whitehaven, is the daring attempt of Paul Jones, the noted pirate, to fire the shipping in the harbour. On Thurs- day, 23d April, 1778, he landed here with about thirty armed men, from an American privateer. 364 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Ranger, mounting eighteen six-pounders and six swivels, which had been equipped at Nantes, expressly for this horrid attempt. Jones, who was a native of Galloway, had served his ap- prenticeship, as a seaman, on board a vessel belonging to Whitehaven, and his acquaintance with the port enabled him to undertake its de- struction. He and his men set fire to three ships, expecting the flames would spread through the two hundred then in the harbour ; but in con- sequence of the defection of one of the men (David Freeman), who alarmed the inhabitants, this was prevented by their timely defence.* " Before any force could be collected, Jones and his crew had re-embarked in two boats, and all the guns of the nearest battery were found spiked. Three of them were, however, soon cleared, and several shots were fired, a few of which were ob- served to fall between the two boats, but not to take effect. The boats were afterwards seen to reach the ship, which, about nine o'clock, stood audaciously towards the harbour, with the flow- ing tide, and with the appearance of bombarding it, but on a discharge from one of the fort-guns she sheered ofl', and, as it afterwards proved, the crew landed upon the opposite shore of Galloway, where they plundered the house of the Earl of Selkirk." After this daring attempt gi"eat exertions were made to put the harbour into a proper state of defence. A subscription for this purpose amount- ed in the space of four days to J2857 5s. 3d. " Grim visaged war having smoothed his wrinkled • Mr. David Williams, a Welshman, was one of the seamen taken from Whitehaven by Paul Jones ; he died in the town a few years ago. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 365 front," the batteries had been long neglected, and they required the chief part of that sura to render them efficient for defence : an additional number of guns was received from Woolwich. At the latter end of the last century the bat- teries were thus described : — " The whole number of cannon is now OS, amongst which are 12 forty-two-pounders, and IS of thirty-six. — At one of the forts, (commonly called 0/d Fort) the military guard is kept ; and it is always the depot of the regiment. It is situated at the entrance to the New Quay, and commands the whole of the harbour, and the approach to it from the northward. — At about two hundred yards dis- tance, nearer St. Bees Head, is the Ilalf-Moon- Battery, so situated as to command the whole bay. — On the opposite side of the harbour is the open battery on a place called Jack-a-Dandy, in which are mounted four of the heaviest pieces, and some smaller guns. — The fourth battery is upon the height, (or brow, as it is generally called) in front of the bowling-green, almost directly above the Half-Moon-Battery, and capable of commanding not only the whole bay, but the coast towards Harrington and Workington, and a great part of the road from AVhitehaven to these places, by Bransty-Brow, &:c." About thirty years ago there were eighteen guns mounted on the different batteries : three 42-pounders, eight 32-pounders, seven 18-pound- ers, besides eight 24-pounders unserviceable; and of dismounted guns, three 42-pounders and three 18-pounders serviceable, and four 42-pounders unserviceable, 3 A 366 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. There is now only one battery : it is neglected, and not all prepared for defence. Acts of parliament for improving the town and harbour of Whitehaven were passed in 1708 and 1711; other acts, for making the former more effectual, and for repairing the roads leading to the town, passed in 1740, 1816, and 1818.* The Manor. The manor of Whitehaven formed part of the possessions of the Priory of St. Bees, and was purchased by Sir Christopher Lowther, (second son of Sir John Lowther, of Lowther,) in the * "On the 31st of January, and 2nd of February 1791, the inhabitants were greatly alarmed by the falling in of some of the old coal works under the town near Duke-street and George-street, -where 18 houses, including the elegant mansion of H. Littledale, Esq. were injured, but fortunately the inmates had time to escape unhurt, and from 60 to 80 families deserted that part of the town, till they were assured that no fur- ther danger was to be apprehended. This accident was caused by a great body of water bursting suddenly from the old workings into the new mines, where two men, a woman, and five horses perished in the overwhelming torrent." " The town and harbour sustained much damage on the 24th, 25lh, and 26th of January, 1797, by the most tremendous storms of wind and rain, that were ever witnessed on this coast. The tide rose so high that the •water overflowed the market-place, was three feet deep on the Custom- house quay — washed up part of the pavement in llarlborough-street, and entered the king's cellars. The mole which extended from the Half-moon Battery, was entirely destroyed, together with most of the new quay, and part of the new Tongue. Ever}' part of the harbour and shipping re- ceived much injury ; and a fine vessel, belonging to New York, was forced from her moorings and wrecked near Harrington, but all the crew were providentially saved. The quays, on the coast northward as far as Solway Frith, were greatly injured, and several houses were washed down." PARISH OF ST. BEES. 367 life-time of his father. Sir Christopher built a manor-house here, (see page 3G2,) and his son. Sir John, also built one on the site of the Castle. Sir James, second son of the last named, and the fourth and last baronet of this branch, died without issue in 1755, and was suc- ceeded in his Whitehaven estates by Sir James Lowther, of Lowther, Bart., who in 17S4 was created Earl of Lonsdale. By a subsequent patent, in 1797, he was created Viscount Lowther of Whitehaven, with remainder to the heirs male of the late Rev. Sir \\'illiam Lowther, of Swil- lington, Bart. The Earl dying without issue in 1802, was succeeded in the title of Viscount Lowther by Sir William Lowther, Bart, (eldest son of Sir ^^"illiam above-mentioned) to whom he bequeathed almost the whole of his princely fortune. "Whitehaven passed under the will of Sir James Lowther, who died in 1755.* William Viscount Lowther was in 1807 created Earl of Lonsdale ; and is the present lord of the manor of Whitehaven. The Castle. Whitehaven Castle, a seat of the Right Honor- able the Earl of Lonsdale, K.G., F.A.S., (a view of which forms the frontispiece to the present volume), is a large quadrangular building, near the south-eastern entrance to tlie town. It oc- cupies the site of the manor-house, built about the year IGH, by Sir John Lowther, described by Mr. T. Denton, in 1GS8, as "a stately new pile of building called the Flatt." The greater • Lysons. 3 A 2 368 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. part of the castle was erected by James, first Earl of Lonsdale. The principal front is towards the town, which is nearly concealed by trees sur- rounding the lawn. In the entrance-hall are two Roman altars : one of which " is the largest which has been discovered in Britain, being no less than five feet in height ; it is formed of a dark reddish grit stone, and was found before the year 1559, at Ellenborough." An engraving of it is given in the third edition of Camden's Britannia, from a drawing made by his friend Sir Robert Cotton ; as also in Cough's edition, and in Lysons's Mag- na Britannia. The inscription is as follows : — GEN 10 LOCI FORTUNE RED ROM^ ^TERN^ ET FATO BONO G. CORNELIUS PEREGRIN VS TRIB.COHORT. EX PROVING MAVR. C^SA DOM OS ET ^D DECVR which may be read thus : — " Genlo loci Fortimcc reduc'i Romcc yEienict' et Fato bono Gams Cornelius Peregr'inus Trihitnus Co/iorf/s ex provincia Manri- taniw Ca'sariensis Domos et JEdem Decurionum, [restituit.]" On the back of the altar, near the top, is in- scribed Volanii Vivas* The other altar was found at Moresby, by the Rev. George Wilkinson, B.D., now incumbent of • Not Folanlii, as in Camden. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 369 Arlecdon, by whom it was presented to the Earl of Lonsdale. It has this inscription : — IMP.CAES TRAIN . HADRI ANI.AVG. P.P LEG . XXVV. The stair-case and apartments contain some fine paintings by eminent masters ; among which may be mentioned — the Marriage at Cana, by Tintoret ; Hero and Leander, by Guido ; and five large groups of animals, by Snyders. Among the family portraits are — an excellent likeness (in his younger days) of the present venerable ^^'illiam, Earl of Lonsdale, K.G., in his robes, by lioppner ; Sir Christopher Lowther, first Baronet, of ^V'hitehaven ; Sir James Lowther, fourth Baronet, ob. 1755 ; James, first Earl of Lonsdale, in a masquerade dress, ob. 1802; Mrs. Hannah Lowther, of Marske, ob. 1757, aged 103; and some others, of which we did not learn the names. Lowther, Earl of Lonsdale. Arms : Quarterly of nine ; 1 , Or, six annulets, three, two, and one, sable, Lomlicr : 2, Ermine, a canton azure, charged with a cross upon three stairs, argent, Quale ; 3, Argent, a lion rampant sable, within a bordurc azure, Stapkton ; 4, Gules, three fishes hauriant or, iwcy .• 5, Sable, three es- callops within a bordure engrailed argent, Strickland; 6, Sable, three covered cups argent, IFarcop .■ 7, Sable, three martlets volant argent ; 8, Or, two bars gules, on a canton of the second, a mullet of the field, Laiicasler ; 9, Argent, three bugles Crest : On a wreath a dragon passant, argent. Supporters : — Two horses argent, each gorged with a chaplet of laurel, proper. Motto: — JMaffislralus indicat virum. 370 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Totvn Residence: — \1, Charles-street, Berkeley-square. Seats: — Lowther castle, CO. Westmorland; AVhitehaven castle ; Cottesmere park, Rutlandshire. Of this ancient knightly family, who are intimately con- nected with the history of this county, the first whose names are recovered are William do Lowthere and Thomas de Lowthere, appearing as witnesses to a grant in the reign of Henry II. : the names of Sir Thomas de Lowther, Sir Ger- vase de Lowther, knight, and Gervase de Lowther, arch- deacon of Carlisle, occur in the reign of Henry III. The regular pedigree commences in the reign of Edward I., with Sir Hugh de Lowther, knight, attorney-general in the 20th Edward I. and knight of the shire in the 28th and 33rd Edward I. He was subsequently justice-itinerant, and cs- cheator on the north side of the Trent, and in the 5th Ed- ward III. was made one of the justices of the court of king's bench. He married .... daughter of Sir Peter de Tilliol, of Scaleby castle, knight, by wliom he had issue, 1. Hugh, son and heir. 2, Thomas, juror on the inquisition J9. wi. of Alexander, king of Scotland, 21st Edward I. Sir Hugh de Lowther, knight, son and heir, married firstly, a daughter of Lord Lucy of Cockermouth, and second- ly, Margaret, daughter and heiress of William de Quale. In the 18th Edward II. he was one of the commissioners to array all men at arms in Cumberland, to assist in the expected invasion from France. He served the office of Sheriff of Cumberland for three successive years, was thrice returned knight for the county of Westmorland, and twice for Cum- berland. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 371 Sir Robert de Lowther, knight, probably son and he.r of Hu^h, had two brothers, John and ^Vllham. He often re- . prelented the county of Cumberland in parliament He died in the 9th Henry VI. (1430), and was survived by h.s widow. In the church of Lowther there is a brass plate bearing this inscription to his memory : — Moribus cxpertus, el miles lionore repcrtus, Lowther Robertus jaeet umbra mortis opertus. Aprilis mense decimante diem, necis cnse Transit ad immense celestis gaudia mense. Millc quadringcntis ter denis, mens moricntis, Anuis, viventis cscas capit omnipoteutis. He is said to have married " Margaret daughter and heir of William Strickland, Bishop of Carlisle ;" but this is probab y incorrect, as his being a churchman would compel him to celibacy. He had issue, 2.' Anife,'"married to Sir Thomas Curwon, of Working- 3. Mary!^married to Sir James Pickering, of Killington, 4. Elizabeth, married to William Lancaster. Sir Hugh de Lowther, knight, son and heir, married \f arfraret dauchter of John de Dorwcntwater. He was at the battle' of Agincourt, " there being with 1^™ G^ffi-ey de Loulber and utchard de Loulhcr." He served the office of sheriff of Cumberland, 18th Henry \ I. Sir Hugh de Lowther, knight, son and heir of the above, married Mabel, daughter of Sir William Lancaster of Sock- Sc He was knight of the shire andshcriffof the county of Cumberland. He died 15th Edward IV . Sir Hueh de Lowther, knight, son and heir, married Anne, daughter of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, by Margaret Bromllet, heiress of Vescy, and widow of John, Lord Cliflord. In the 17th Henry VII. he was made knight of the Bath. He died circa 2nd Henry VIII. leaving issue Jo/«h, Lancelot, Robert, Joan (married John Fleming, Esq.), and Mabel (married John Leigh, Esq.) Sir John Lowther, knight, married Lucy, daughter of Sir Thomas Curwen, of Workington. He had issue a son Hugh and a daughter Mabel married to Christopher Dalston, 372 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. of Uldale, Esq. Sir John was called out on the border service, A.D. 1543, with one hundred horse and forty foot, and was sheriff' of Cumberland for three years. He had issue, Sir Hugh Lowther, knight, son and heir, married Dorothy, daughter of Henry, Lord Clifford, and by her had issue, 1. Richard. 2. Gerard, a bencher in Lincoln's Inn. 3. Margaret, married John Richmond, of High-head castle, Esq. 4. Anne, married Thomas Wybergh, of Clifton, Esq. 5. Frances, married Sir Henry Goodyer, of Powels- worth, knight. 6. Barbara, married Thomas Carleton, of Carleton, Esq. Sir Hugh died before his father ; his eldest son Richard succeeded his grandfather Sir John. Sir Richard Lowther, knight, grandson and heir, married Frances, daughter of John Middleton, of Middleton-hall, Esq. He succeeded Henry, Lord Scrope as lord-warden of the West Marches. In 1568, when deputy-warden, he conveyed Mary, Queen of Scots, from Cockermouth to the castle of Carlisle ; (see pages 244, 254) and on her way to Bolton, where she was subsequently confined, he entertained her majesty at Lowther-hall. In the church of Lowther there is a mural monument to his memory. By his wife he had issue, L John, ob. V. p. 2. Christopher. 3. John, ob. s. p. 4. Gerard, Chief-Justice of the Common Pleas in Ire- db. s. p. 5. Hugh, a captain in the army. 6. Richard, ob. s.p. 7. Lancelot, one of the Barons of the Exchequer in Ireland. 8. William, married Eleanor W^elberry, oflngleton, co. York, from whom are descended the Lowthers of Ingleton. 1. Anne, married Alexander Fethcrstonhaugh of Northumberland, Esq. 2. Florence. 3. Frances, died young. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 373 4. Margaret, died unmarried. 5. Dorothy, died young. 6. Mabel, died young. . m v, 7. Frances, married Thomas Clyburne of Clyburnc. Sir Christopher Lowther, knight, eldest surviving son and heir of Sir Richard, married Eleanor daughter of Sir William Musgrave of Hayton, co. Cumberland; and by her had issue, 1. John. . , . i.., 1 ■ c 2. Gerard, a captain, slain m the service of the king ot Poland. 3. Richard, abarrister-at-law. 4. Christopher, in holy orders, rector of Lowther. 5. William, clerk of the warrants of the Common Pleas in Ireland. nur . • i G Lancelot, iu holy orders, rector of Marton, married Esther Pierce of Dublin, and by her had issue, Christopher Lowther, of Colby Laithes, who had a son, , „ Gerard Lowther, rector of Bowness, lather ot Henry Lowther, rector of Aikton, who had a son, William Lowther, B.A. rector of Low- ther. 7 Robert, alderman of the city of London, married ■ firstly, Margaret, daughter of of Thomas Cutler, of Steinburgh, co. York: and secondly, .... Holcroft, by whom he had two sons, L Anthony, who had issue. Sir William Lowther, of Mask, Bart., who, by his first wife, Catherine, daughter and heir of Thomas Preston of Ilolker, Esq., had issue. Sir Thomas Lowther of Holker, Bart., who by his wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Wil- liam Cavendish, Duke of Devonshire, had issue „ ,^ „ , Sir 'SV illiam Lowther of Holker and Whitehaven, Bart., who died un- married. 2. John, married the widow of George Preston, of Holker, Esq., and died in 1G97. 1." ISor, married Richard Fallowfield, of Strickland- hall, Esq. 3 B 374 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. 2. Anne. 3. Frances, died young. 4. Frances. Sir Christopher had also a natural son, Sir Gerard Low- ther, one of the judges in Ireland. Sir John Lowther, knight, eldest son of the above was knight of the shire for Westmorland in four parliaments. He married Eleanor, daughter of William Fleming of Rydal, Esq., by whom he had issue, 1. John. 2. Sir Christopher, created Baronet in 1642, for whom his father purchased the estates of St. Bees and Whitehaven. He died in 1644. Sir Christopher married Frances, one of the coheiresses of the Lan- casters of Sockbridge, and by her had issue. Sir John Lowther, second Baronet, of Sockbridge, afterwards the founder of Whitehaven, who married Jane, daughter of Webley Leigh, co. Surrey, Esq., and had issue, (with three daugh- ters, Elizabeth,. Catherine, and Jane,) Sir Christopher, third Baronet, died s. p. in 1731. Sir James, fourth Baronet, died unmarried in 1755, worth nearly 2,000,000/. which de- volved to Sir James Lowther afterwards the first Earl. At his death the Baronetcy of 1642 expired. He was M.P. for the city of Carlisle, and vice-admiral of the county. 3. Sir William, of Swillington, from whom descended the present Earl. L Agnes, married to Roger Kirkby of Furness, co. Lancaster, Esq. 2. Frances, married to John Dodsworth of Thornton Watlass, CO. York, Esq. Sir John died Sep. 15, 1637, and was succeeded by iiis eldest son. Sir John Lowther, first Baronet of Nova Scotia ; so creat- ed in the year 1610. He was a great sufferer in the royal cause. During the usurpation he lived retired ; but was one of the knights of the shire for Westmorland in the par- liament at the restoration. He married, firstly, Mary, daughter of Sir Richard Fletcher, of Hutton, by whom he had issue, PARISH OF ST. BEES, 375 1. John, oh. V. p. lie nianied, firstly, Elizabeth, daughter and coheiress of Sir Henry Bellingham, of Lcvens, l?art., by whom he had issue, John, aged 9 at Sir W. Dugdale's visitation in 1664; of whom hereafter as first Viscount Lonsdale. Mary, married, firstly, George Preston, of Holker, gentleman; and secondly, John Lowlher, Esq., one of the commissioners of the revenue in Ireland. By his second wife, Mary, daughter of William Withens, of Elthain, co. Kent, Esq., he had issue, William, M.P. for the City of Carlisle, died un- married. 2. Eichard, who died yoimg. 3. Kichard, of Mauds Meaburn, M.P. for Appleby, grandfather of Sir James Lowther, Bart., from whom descended James, first Earl. He married Barbara, daughter of iiobert Pricket, of Wresel Castle, co. York, Esq., and had issue, Robert, son and heir, was storekeeper of the Tower, captain-general and govcrnor-in-chief of Barbadoes. He married Catherine, only daughter of Sir Joseph Pennington, of Muncaster Castle, Bart., by Margaret, his wife, fourth daughter of John, Viscount Lonsdale. He died Sept. 1745, leaving issue, James, first Earl of Lonsdale, llobert, M.P. for Westmorland. Margaret, married to Henry, Earl of Darling- ton. Catherine, married to Harry, Duke of Bolton. Barbara. Christopher, who married Anne, daughter of Sir John Cowper, cousin-german to the Lord Chan- cellor Cowper. Richard, a captain. Eleanor, married to .... Barnard, M.D. of York. 4. Christopher, a Turkey Merchant in London. 5. Hugh, a merchant in London. 1. Mary, died young. 2. Eleanor, married Sir Christopher Wandesford, of Kirklinton, co. York, Bart. 3. Barbara, married John Bielby, of Grange, co. York, Esq. 3 B 2 376 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. 4. Anne. 5. Mary, married Edward Trotter, of Skelton Castle, CO. York, Esq. 6. Frances, married Sir Thomas Pennyman, of Ormesby, CO. York, Bart. By his second wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Hare, of Stowe-Bardolfe, co. Norfolk, knight, and widow of Wooley Leigh, Esq., he had issue, 1. Ralph, father of John Lowther, M.P. for Pontefract in 1722. 2. William, counsellor-at-law. 3. Robert. And four daughters, Mary, Anne, Elizabeth, and Margaret, the latter of whom married Sir John Au- brey, of Llantrithed, co. Glamorgan, Bart. Sir John died in the year 1675, and was succeeded by his grandson. Sir John Lowther, of Lowther, second Baronet, grandson and heir, was born 1655, at Hackthorp-hall, and educated at the Free Grammar School at Appleby and Queen's college, O.xford. He was a considerable benefactor to the above school, and was often returned M.P. for Westmorland. Sir John rebuilt the rectory-house and church of Lowther. He distinguished himself by influencing the counties of Cum- berland and Westmorland in favour of William HL, and secured the city of Carlisle. For these services, on the accession of king William, Sir John was constituted vice- chamberlain of his majesty's household, a member of his privy council, and lord-lieutenant of the county of West- morland in 1689. In the following year, he was appointed one of the lords of the treasury. On the 28th of May, 1696, Sir John was created Baron Lowther of Lowther, and Viscount Lonsdale. Lithe year 1699, he was made lord privy-seal, and was twice appointed to the office of one of the lords justices for the government of the kingdom during the absence of the king. Viscount Lonsdale left in MS. " Alemoirs of the Reign of JamosH." which the present Earl of Lonsdale printed in 4to. at York, in 1808, with the " Life and Character of John, first Viscount Lowther," prefixed to it. In this Life it is said that when ill health in 1699, " compelled him to decline his attendance upon Parliament for some time, he returned to his seat at Lowther, where he enjoyed that happy solitude which he called ' his dearest companion and PARISH OF ST. BEES. 377 entertainment.'" " He took great pleasure in adorning liis magnificent house, with paintings of the most eminent artists ; and indulged his taste for rural elegance in improvinc the aspect of the whole country, in embellishing and enriching its noble scenery, by those extensive plantations, which he formed and nurtured with the tendcrest care. Relieved from the toil and fatigues of public engagements, he experi- enced a never-failing source of gratification in the recreation of his garden." He died 10th July, 1700, aged 45, leaving issue, (by his wife, Catherine, daughter of Sir Henry Frederick Thynne,) 1 . Richard. 2. Henry. 3. Anthony, one of the commissioners of the revenue in Ireland, M.P. for Cockermouth in 1714, and after- wards knight of the shire for Westmorland. He died unmarried, in 1741. 1. Mary, married to Sir John Wentworth of North Elmsal, CO. York. Bart. 2. Elizabeth, married to Sir William Eamsden, of By- rom, CO. York, Bart. 3. Jane, who died unmarried, in 1752. 4. Margaret, married to Sir Joseph Pennington, of Muncaster, co. Cumberland, Bart. 5. Barbara, married to Thomas Howard, of Corby castle, CO. Cumberland, Esq. Richard Lowther, second Viscount Lonsdale, son and heir died at Lowther, unmarried, in the year 1713, aged 21. TickcU dedicated his "Oxford" to this nobleman. He was succeeded by his brother and heir, Henry. Henry Lowther, third Viscount Lonsdale, in 1715 was constituted custos rolulorum, and subsequently lord-lieuten- ant of the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland. In this year he assembled a body of upwards of 10,000 men to op- pose the Pretender, (see Leath Ward, page 24.) Lord Lonsdale was appointed one of the lords of the bedchamber, constable of the tower of London, lord-lieu- tenant of the Tower-hamlets, and lord privy-seal. He also died unmarried, " universally esteemed and lamented," r2th March, 17.30, when the peerage became extinct, but the baronetcy descended to James Lowther, Esq. grandson of Richard, third sou of Sir John, first baronet, who died in 1G75. 37S ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERW'ENT. Sir James Lowther, of Lowther, Baronet, (son and heir of Robert Lowther of Mauds Meaburn, Esq.,) by the death of his father, and of Henry Viscount Lonsdale, and of Sir ^\ illiam Lowther, baronet, became possessed of the three great inheritarces of Clauds Meaburn, Lowther, and 'White- haven. Sir James was an alderman of the city of Carlisle, M.P. for the counties of Westmorland and Cumberland, and lord- lieutenant and custos roluloj'um for those counties. In 1755, he succeeded to the immense property of his kinsman Sir James of ^Vhitebaven, which was estimated at 2,000,000/. In 1761, he married Lady Margaret, daughter of John Stuart, Earl of Bute. In the year 1784, he was elevated to the peerage by the titles of Baron Lowther and Baron Kendal, CO. Westmorland, Baron Burgh, co. Cumberland, Viscount Lonsdale, Viscount Lowther, and Earl of Lonsdale; and in 1797, his lordship obtained a new patent, creating him Baron and Viscount Lowther, of Whitehaven, with remainder to the heirs male of his third cousin the Kev. Sir William Lowther, of Swillington, Bart., in holy orders, prebendary of York. The Earl of Lonsdale died 2-lth May, 1802, without issue, when the titles of 1797* descended to his kinsman Sir AVilliam Lowther, Bart., son and heir of the above Rev. Sir William. William Lowther, second Earl of Lonsdale, K.G., F.S.A. The present Earl succeeded as Viscount Lowther, in 1802 ; in the year 1807, he was created Earl of Lonsdale, and soon after was installed a knight of the most noble Order of the Garter. His lordship was recorder of the city of Carlisle, is a lieutenant-colonel in the army, and lord-lieutenant of the counties of Westmorland and Cumberland. In 1781, his lordship married the Lady .Vugusta Fane, eldest daughter of John, ninth Earl of Westmorland. This excellent and benevolent lady died in 1838, and was interred in the church of Lowther. By this lady his lordship had issue, 1. William, Viscount Lowther, M.P., F.R S., F.S.A. is a Commissioner of Greenwich Hospital ; born 30th July, 1787. 2. IIenry-Cccil,born27th July, 1790, M.?.,alieutenant- colonel in the army ; married, 1817, Lucy-Eleanor, eldest daughter of Philip, fifth Earl of Harborough, by whom he has had issue, 1. Henry, born 27th March, 1818. * Those of 1784 and the baronetcy of 1640, expired at his death. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 379 2. Arthur, born 12th July, 1820. 3. William, born 14lh Dec. 1821. 4. Eleanor-Cecily, born 20th Dec. 1822. 5. Augusta-Mary, born 24th Doc. 1825. 6. Constantia, born 4th July, 1831. 7. A daughter, born 9th October, 1832. 1. Elizabeth, born 1st Sept., 1784. 2. Mary, born 28th October, 1785; married 1820 Lord Frederick Bentinck, son of William Henry Cavendish, third Duke of Portland, K.G., and has issue. 3. Anne, born 11th Dec. 1788; married, 1817, the Right Hon. Sir John Docket, Bart. 4. Caroline, born 17th Feb. 1792; married, 1815, Lord AVilliam John Frederick Pawlet, son of William Harry, Marquis of Cleveland. The Cii.vpel of St. Nicholas. Until tlic year 1G93 there was no place for Divine service in Whitehaven, e.xcepting "a little old chapel" (see page 362,) which was then taken clown. The present spacious edifice was erected by Sir John Lowther, IJart. and the inhabitants, at the expence of 10661. I6s. 2}jd. The conse- cration was performed 16th July, 1693. The inhabitants petitioned the House of Commons (as in the subjoined note) that this chapel might be made a jiarish-church ; but their rc({uest was not granted.* Although the building was com- • The Case of the Inhabitants of the Town and Port of Whitehaven, in the parish of Saint Bees, in the county of Cumberland, in Relation to their being made a separate pariah, IjC, humbly offered to the con- sideration qf the Honourable House (/Ccvmons — The said town and port of Whilohavcii is situated ou the sea shore, near four miles distant from the parish church, which said town about sixty years since, consisted but of nine or ten thatched cottages. That there arc now above four hundred and fifty families in the said town, producing in all two thousand two hundred and twenty-two inha- bitants, of whom, not above tiftcen have estates in the parish, and the 380 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. menced in or before August, 1687, it was not completed until 1G93. The chapel was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty at about 60/. per annum ; of which 40/. ai'ose from the seats, and the re- mainder from contributions. Since that period it has received a parliamentary gi-ant of 800/. The benefice is a perpetual curacy. On a vacancy occurring in the incumbency, the seat-holders chose two, one of whom the lord of the manor nominates to the Bishop. The living was re- turned to the commissioners for enquiring con- cerning ecclesiastical revenues as of the average rest of them, only such, riches as are in casualties, depending ou their trade at sea, and the security of their ships and harboiu', which are sub- ject to many dangers by lire, enemies, or otherwise. The said town is, of late years, very much improved in trade ; and, by great expence and charge of the Honourable Sir John Lowther, Baronet, and the inhabitants, it is made a convenient port and harbour for ships, to the great increase of his majesty's revenue, and the benefit of (lie ad- jacent country. The inhabitants of the said town and port (being sensible of the great inconveniences they, and the strangers resorting thither, did daily suffer, for want of a church sufficient to receive all persons frequenting divine service there) did readily and cheerfully contribute, with the said Sir John Lowther, Baronet, to the building of a convenient church, for the service and worship of God, which church was consecrated by his Lord- ship the Bishop of Chester the 16th of July, 1693. But, there being no regular provision made for the repairs and support of the said church, or for the preservation of the said harbour, so that both are in great danger of falling to decay and utter ruin, for want of an equal distribution of the charge such public works require, for the main- tenance thereof; the said inhabitants, therefore, are now humble peti- tioners, with the said Sir John Lowther, Baronet, That the said town may be made a distinct parish of itself, and they thereby enabled to finish and support their church, and preserve their harbour, on which their happiness and welfare do absolutely depend. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 381 annual value of ISS/. The ecclesiastical courts for the deanery of Copcland are holden in this cliapel ; and here the Bishop of Chester holds visitations and confirmations. Four houses (three of which are of small value) belong to this chapel. As a further augmentation of the endowment of this and the chapels of the Moly Trinity and of St. James, ^^■illiam, Earl of Lonsdale, gave the small tithes of St. Bees, the profits of wliich are to be equally divided between the ministers of the three chapels. The Rev. Joseph Askew, M.A., is the assistant-curate. List of Incumbents. 1693 Yates. .... Francis Yates, L.L B.f 1738 Curwen Hudleston, M.A.+ 1771 Wilfrid Hudleston, B.A.|| 1811 Andrew Hudleston, D.D. The Chapel of St. Nicholas is a plain building, with nothing ecclesiastical in its external appear- ance excepting the tower. Internally, however, it is handsomely fitted up. The organ (built by Snetzler) is placed over the altar ; beneath it is a painting of the Last Supper, by ^latthias Reed. The pew of the Earl of Lonsdale has some elab- orate carving. Near the altar-table is this mural inscription — Sacred To the Memory of JAMES RICHARDSON of Carleton Lodge, t Married Ann, daughter of Charles Orfcur, Esq., by whom lie had issue, Lowlher Yates, D.D., master of Catheriiio Hall, Cambridge, and prebendary of Norwich ; and John Orfeur of Skirwith abbey, Esq. ♦ See monumental inscription. I Rector of Handsworth ; see monumental inscription, page 384. 3 c 382 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Esq,, who died (he 10th diy of May, 1811, Aged 26 years. His widow, Jane Richardson, caused this monument to be erected in grateful tribute to his memory. JANE, his Widow, who died on the 6th day of September, 1833, Aged 47 years. Under the tower is a mural tablet with this inscription — JOHN HARTLEY, Esquire Died the 12th of March, 1801, aged 66 years. ELIZABETH HARTLEY, his wife, Died the 13th of September, 1801, aged 63 years. On another: — ELIZABETH HARTLEY wife of Thomas Hartley, of Gillfoot, Esq. Died the 5th of April, 1800, in the 51st year of her age. THOMAS HARTLEY, Esq. of Gillfoot, Died the 23rd of March, 1815, in the 71st year of his age. On another : — Mr. WILLIAM GALE departed this life May the 9th, 1774, In the 81st year of his age. MARGARET his Wife Died the 25th of September, 1759, In the 70th year of her age. In whose memory this plain monument is erected by theii Son John Gale, And Daughter Isabella Curwen. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 383 On another : — Near this place lies interred Mr. GEOllGE GRIFFIN, ■who died Glh March, 1756, Aged 39 years. He was a man remarkable for his honest industry and filial duty. On another : — Sacrum Memoria; ELIZABETHS Dilectissima; Conjugis CUBWENI HUDI.ESTON hujus Eccl. Ministri (Qua; farevi Vita; Spatio Filia; pioe, Uxoris amantissima: Parentis indulgentissiraa;, Socio; fidelissimee ChristianiE deraum Optima; OiEciis fajliciter fimcta Puerperio abrepta Objit 6, Decbris. 1738, Annos natu 24 ; Supcistitibus relictis, duabus Filiabus Isabelli & Jocosi : Hoc (qualecunqsit) pcrpetua; Charitatis Monumcntura Qua erga pra;stantissiniam Conjugcm tenetur Maerensposuit C. H. Omecum reputa, qui hsec legis Quam brevis Suavissimas hujus Vitoe DeliciM Voluit Esse Deus Opt. Max, Et tondum Munitus ad eas aspirarc discas Qua; .lEterna; sunt futura;. A mural tablet near the tower bears this m- scription : — Sacred To the memory OftheRov. CURWEN HUDLESTON, A.M., formerly Minister of this Chapel, ■who died on the 24lh of March, 1771 ; Of WILLIAM SHAMMON, his Son-in-Law, 3 C 2 3S4 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Lieutenant in the Koyal Navy, wlio died on tlie 29tli of November, 1795 ; Of JOHN HUDLESTON, his Son, who died on the 24th of April, 1803 ; And of JOYCE SHAMMON, his only Daughter, and Widow of said WUUam Shammon, who died on the 9th of April, 1824, and at whose desire this tablet is erected. Also of the Reverend WILFRID HUDLESTON, his Son, B.A., late Minister of this Chapel, who died on the 7th of April, 1829, and is interred in the Church yard of the Parish of Handsworth, near Sheffield, of which Parish he was Rector. On another : — Erected to the memory of HENRY LITTLEDALE, Gentlemak, late an eminent Attorney and most valuable member of Society, who departed this life on the 24th day of April, 1779, aged 33 years. Having lived an ornament to the Profession and to human nature. He died universally respected. Henry Littledale married Mary, the eldest Daughter of Robert Watters, Esq., on the 1st day of February, 1776, by whom he had issue two Daughters, CATHARINE, the Younger, who died August the 7th, 1793, aged 1 5 years, and is interred here ; ANN, the Eldest, who died March 11th, 1794, aged 17 years, and is interred at Twickenham, in Middlesex, wheie a monument is erected. PARISH OF ST. BEES, 385 MARY, their Mother, who afterwards married Anthony Benn, Esq., of Hcnsingham, Died the 7 th of February, 1818, aged 65 years, and was interred here. " The patient abiding of the meek shall not perish forever." On the wall, outside of the church, is a tablet with the following inscription. The arms are three steel morions, impaling a lion statant guar- dant : — Near to this Momiment lyes the Body of the truly Tirtuous and pious HANNAH, Wife of THOS. LUTWIDGE, Mercht , obt. Jun. 6, 1721, .lEtat. 48, interred in the same grave with their Son, PALMER, bom Jun. 19, 1703, ob. Aprl. 10, 1704. Near this place lies CORDELIA, ye Daugh. of Mr. Thos. & Mrs. L. Lutwidge. And also LUCY, their Daugr., died Augt. ye 12lh. 173G, aged 15 mos. On another : — To the Memory of JOHN, ELIZ., and ANN BENN ; the fiist killed on the Coast of Africa, the two last interred near this place. This Monument is erected at the request of the sd. Ann, by hei Executors, 1786. The Chapel of the Holy Trinity. This chapel was erected in the year 1715, by James Lowther, Esq. and others of the inhabi- tants, on ground given by Mr. Lowther. It was certified at about GO/. ; of which 10/. arose from the seats, by agreement before the conse- cration ; and the remainder from contributions. 386 ALLERDALR WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. The benefice is a perpetual curacy. The nomi- nation of the incumbent is alternately in the Earl of Lonsdale and the seat-holders. The living was returned, in 1831, to the commissioners for enquiring concerning ecclesiastical revenues as of the averaje annual value of 250/. ; and is now worth 2S0/. It has been augmented by William, Earl of Lonsdale (see page 381). There are two houses belonging to this chapel. The Earl of Lonsdale gave 200/., and the like sum was given by the late incumbent, the Rev. Thomas Harrison, INLA., with which 400/. was procured from Queen Ann's bounty. List of Incumbents. 1715 John Dalton.* 1 729 AVilliam Brisco.f 1745 Thomas Sewell. 1781 Charles Cobbe Church.J 1808 Thomas Harrison, ISI.A., oh. 1840. 1840 Thomas Dalton. The chapel of the Holy Trinity is built in a similar style to that of St. Nicholas. The altar- table is placed in a semicircular recess, and is surmounted by a painting of the Ascension, by Matthias Reed. The organ was built by Wren of Manchester. Near the tower is a marble monument to the memory of Sir James Lowther, the fourth and last baronet of his bi-anch of the family, who died without issue in 1 755, and was succeeded in his • Rector of Distington, 1712— 1729; see monumental inscription, p, 388, t Rector of Distington. X See monumental inscription, p. 389. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 387 Whitehaven estates by Sir James Lowther, of Lowther, Bart., afterwards first Earl of Lons- dale. It bears the following inscription : — Sertc postcritati consecretur memorioD JACOBI LOWTHER Baronetti, viri perantiquS. majorum prosapii oriund. natunc & fortunn; dotibus locuplctati ; qui patris prtestaiitissinii vestigiU insistcns, non tarn sibi quaui iii publicos usus largas erogavit opes. Judi<:io gravi et subacto, iiigciiio prompto et acuto pra!ditus, summo efl'ccit consilio, ut oppidum lioc in quo, pauculis abliinc annis, nihil ante oculos obscrvabautur priEtcr magalia ct humiles piscatorum casulas, quasi in splendidam urbeni, ilorcntissimam commercii scdem exsurgeret, portu lulissimo, aidificiis amocuis, perpulchro platearum ordine & magni hominum frequcntii exornalum. In senatu se incorruptum & patriae ornatissimum adbibuit : ecclesisE Anglicans, libertatis legiim vindcx accerrimus ; nee privati civis munia minus fidclitcr administravit, omni sane laudatione dignus propter tcmperantiam ct prima;vam morum simplicitateni : pietatem erga Deum, & charilatem erga pauperes et egenos, non speciosam istam & commenlitiam qurc in propatulo gaudct famam inancm aucupavi, sed veram et genuinam, scjunctam scilicet et a publica luce semotum. Diem obiit supremum iv nonas Januarii Anno salutis MDCCLV ct a;tatis LXXXI. OULIELMUS VICECOMES DE LOWTHER, cui luculenta ejus et magna ha^rcdilus obvenil, mai'mor hoc poui curavit, giatissimi animi ct amoris iidissimi testimonium. In the church-yard is a gravestone inscribed in memory of nine persons of tlie name of liirk- head, whose ages average 72 years. The family was well-known in the town from their connec- tion with the post-ollice through a very long period. 388 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. In the vestry is a mural tablet with this in- scription — Here lies the body of the Rev. JOHN DALTON, Rector of Dis- tington, and first minister of tliis chapel. A diligent, learned, and most persuasive preacher ; for his doctrine was enforced by the irresistible eloquence of an example conspicuous for unaffected piety and universal charity. He was in the most trying conjuncttu'es, an able and zealous advocate for the constitution in Church and State ; But treated those who had imbibed prejudice against them with much candour and meek- ness ; has convinced many of the Goodness of his Cause ; all of the uprightness of his intentions. Devoted to the duties of his holy profession, he was perhaps too regardless of temporal concerns, but the defect was supplied by the prudent care and economy of a faithful and affectionate wife, and the Blessing of that Gracious Providence in which he always trusted, and which has never forsaken his posterity. He had five children, Jane, John, Jonathan, Henry, and Richard. Jonathan died before Henry, a few years after his Father. Their mother died in London Anno Domini 1747. His surviving children visiting this place many years after his death, had the unspeakable pleasure of finding their father's Piety and virtue still revered by his parishioners, his example esteemed by a worthy clergy, and his memory dear to all. To perpetuate that, and for a testimony of their gratitude to such excellent Parents, Jane, John, and Richard Dalton, erected this monument Anno Domini 1754. Born Anno Dom. 167 i. Died 1729. On another : — To the memory of DOROTHY The wife of JAMES JACKSON, Merchant, who was Virtuous, Pious, Charitable, A sincere Friend, A tender and most loving Wife. This monument is erected as a testimony of his inviolable affection, by Her sorrowful and much afflicted Husband. She was born at Kirklinton, being the PARISH OF ST, BEES. 389 Daugliter of Joseph Appelby, Esq., and by her mother descended from the antient and honorable family of the Dacres in Gilsland, and died universally esteemed and lamented, July the 19th, 1740, aged 48 years. Mb. JAMES JACKSON died July 16th, 1757, aged 72 years. SARAH JACKSON his wife, Died Augt. 10th, 1763, aged 61 years. A mural tablet on the north side of the church bears this inscription : — • To the memory of CHARLES COBBE CHURCH, ■who was 24 years minister of this chapel, and died March the 26th, 1808, iu the G4th year of his Age. A mural tablet on the north side of the church bears this inscription : — Sacred To the memory of MAEY ANN, the affectionate and beloved wife of JOHN MOORE, who soon after delivery of a still-born male child, died Feb. 14th, 1836, Aged 29 years. This monument is erected as a tribute of respect By her bereaved husband. A handsome mural monument of white marble on the south side of the church bears this in- scription : — In Memory of JOHN LITTLEDALE, Esq., Collector of Customs of this port, ■who departed this life, the 29th of OcU., 1834, aged 63 years. And of SARAH, his wife, who died the 12th of Jan., 1825, 3 D 390 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. aged 49 years. And of Six of their children who died in infancy. Another is thus inscribed : — In Memory of JOHN SPEDDING, Esq. of Armathwaite Hall, who died Sep. 26th 1781, aged 34 years : And of MARGARET, his wife, ■who, for the happiness of their children, was spared till June the 7th 1797, when, at the age of 49 years, On her road from Bristol Hot Wells, She was taken from her sorrowing Family. Her remains are interred at Berkley, in Gloucestershire. On the east wall, north of the altar-table, is a marble monument, with a head of the deceased in a medallion, and bearing this inscription : — Sacred to the Memory of JAMES SPEDDING, Esq., who departed this life 22nd of August, 1788, In the sixty-eighth year of his age. This monument was caused to be erected by his affectionate widow, ELIZABETH, who died on the I2th of August, 1821, In the sevenly-sixth year of her age. On the south side of the altar-table is a mural tablet, with arms, and this inscription : — Sacred To the memory of PARISH OF ST. BEES. 391 JOHN BATEMAN, Esq., Who departed this life in the sixty-seventh year of his age, A. D: 181G. Under the tower is a mural monument of marble, with this inscription : — Mr. James Spedding Erected this Monument In memory of his virtuous parents, Mr. CARLISLE SPEDDING. ^ho died Aug 8th, 1755, JE. 59 years, and Mrs. SARAH SPEDDING, who died July 10th, 1771, JE. 74 years. And also In memory of his amiable and affectionate Wife Mrs. MARY SPEDDING, Second Daughter of the late Mr. Henry Todd, of St. Bees, who died March 11th, 1777, M. 56 years. On another : — Sacred to the Memory of JOHN PENNYFEATHER, Who died at Whitehaven Castle, on the 4 day of April, 1840, Aged 84 years. Seventy of which he spent as Gardener in the service of the First and Second Eabls of Lonsdale. In the exercise of an extensive Benevolence, Mr. Pennyfeather contri- buted liberally to the support of several charitable Institutions in this Town as well as to others in the County of Wostmorhmd ; and at h.s Deith bequeathed various sums of money for the like laudable purpose. The beneficence thus exemplified, and the munificent donation towards the erection of an Organ in this Chapel, will long cause the name of the deceased to be held in grateful remembrance. The Chapel of St. James. This Chapel was erected in 1752; and has also received a grant of 800/., and an augmenta- 3 D 2 392 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. tion by William, Earl of Lonsdale, (see page 381.) The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of his lordship. It was returned to the commis- sioners for enquiring concerning ecclesiastical revenues as of the average annual value of 200/. List of Incumbents. 1752 Thomas Spedding, M.A. * 1783 Richard Armitstead, M.A.f 1821 William Jackson, B.D. % 1833 John Jenkins. Under the tower is a marble mural monument, with this inscription : — In memory of the Reverend THOMAS SPEDDING, A.M., first Minister of this Chapel, who died April 24th, 1783, iE. 61 years. In him were most agreeably imited The tender husband. The affectionate parent. The faithful friend. The worthy Pastor, and (Reader, if thou requirest yet more) The honest man. He was sincerely respected through life, and In his death, universally lamented, But by none More than by his numerous Admiring Congregation. ISABELLA, the wife of the Revd. Thos. Spedding, A.M. Died May 29th, 1787, aged 62 years. • See moniunental inscription, page 392, t Rector of Moresby; ob. 1821. X Now D.D. Rector of Lowthcr. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 393 On another : — In memory of JOHN DIXON, Esq., who died on the 26tli May, 1801, aged 71 years. ISABELLA, his wife, who died on the 19th of July, 1781, aged 48 years. Six of their children who died in their infancy. HENRY DIXON, their son, who died on the 27th of June, 179G, aged 27 years. GEORGE DIXON, their son, who died in London, on the 29th of October, 1803, aged 29 years. JOSEPH DIXON, their son, Who died on the 26th Jan. 1815, aged 50 years. FRANCES, relict of Jno. Dixon, Esq. Who died on the 24th of July, 1837, aged 79 years. Another is thus inscribed : — In memory of Reverend WILLIAM STAMPER, A.M. Of Queen's College, Oxford, Who died the 24th of Februarj-, 1811, Aged 30 years. Near the tower is a mural monument in- scribed — In memory of The Kevd. RICHARD ARMITSTEAD, A.M., Rector of Moresby, and upwards of XXX years Minister of this Chapel. He departed this Life 18th May, A.D. MDCCCXXI, Aged LVl years. A mural tablet bears this inscription : — Near this place lie the remains of Mr. JOSEPH WOOD, Ob. 25th September, 1827, M. 67. With unwearied assiduity he taught Mathematics During 48 years. Possessed the affection and gratitude of his pupils. 394 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. And was justly esteemed by the Inhabitants of Whitehaven and its Ticinity. Another is thus inscribed : — Sacred to the memory of SAMUEL GRUNDY, of Kirkby Lonsdale, who died at Whitehayen, on the 18th of December, 1834, after a short illness, aged 44 years. He was not less distinguished in life for Ms yocal talents than for the many kindly virtues which graced humanity. This Memorial was erected by the voluntary subscriptions of bis Friends. MDCCCXXXV. On the south side of the altar-table is a mural tablet with this inscription : — In memory of ANNE, the Wife of JONATHAN BROWN, late of Falmouth, Jamaica, who died May 11th, 1817, aged 35 years. WILLIAM, their Son, died April 29th, 1817, aged 13 days. On another : — Sacred to the memory ofj the Children of the Rev. Thos. Spedding, M.A., and Isabella, his wife : Carlisle, bom 1752, died 1755. IsabcUa, 1755, 1755. Carlisle, • 1757, 1784. Thomas, 1766. - — - 1789. Langton, 1761, 1789. Frances, 1748, 1803. Sarah, . 1750, 1818. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 395 Mary, ]759, 1819. Jane, 1768, 1828. Ann, 1765, 1839. On the north side of the altar-table is a mural marble monument bearing this inscription : — To the memory of THOMAS HARRISON, Esquike, Who died on the 13th day of July, 1812, Aged G8 years. Also BETTY HARRISON, his Wife, who died on the 26th day of Jany., 1787, Aged 46 years. On a mural tablet : — Sacred to the Memory of Mr. ISAAC rORSTER, late of this place. Who died on the 22nd day of May, 1822, In the 73rd year of his age. Also AGNES, his Sister, Who died on the 29th day of February, 1824, In the 77th year of her age. On another : — In memory of JOHN SARJEANT, Esq. He was bom 19th November, 1732, And died 7th February, 1803. SARAH SARJEANT, his Wife, Was bom September 26th, 1728, And died Feby. 6th, 1793. On another, in the north gallery : — Erected To the memory of WILLIAM RICHARDSON, of thU town who died at Carlingford, in Ireland On the 17th day of November, 1810, aged 37 years. 396 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. Also SARAH, his wife, ■who died at the city of Carlisle, On the 27 th day of November, 1834, Aged 5G years. Also of HKNRY, their son, who died in his infancy. Dissenting Chapels. There are in AVhitebaven chapels belonging to the Church of Scotland, the Roman Catholics, the Wesleyan INIcthodists, the Independents, the United Secession, the Society of Friends, the Baptists, the Wesleyan Association, and the Pri- mitive Methodists.* The Harbour Is rather spacious and secure than easy of access. It has seven stone piers, some of which are on a magnificent scale. On these piers are three light- houses : the two principal ones have been recently built, and are highly ornamental to the port. "A tonnage duty has been established by two acts of parliament, passed in the 7th and 11th years of Queen Anne, for the purpose of improv- ing the harbour, to which many additional works have been added during the last fifty years. The New Quay was lengthened in 1 767 ; the North Wall was begun in 1770, and finished in 1784 ; the new' work formerly called the Bulwark, has been entirely rebuilt on a larger plan ; the Old • This was built as a chapel for the Church of England, by Mr. Hogarth, and was to have been consecrated in 1789, but a caveat having been en- tered against it by the impropriator of St. Bees, it did not receive conse- cration. PARISH OF ST. BEES, 397 Quay was lengthened in 1792, and various other improvements were effected about the year 1809; so that several hundred large vessels may now lie with safety in the harbour." The new West Pier was commenced in 1824, and finished in 1839: it is a noble building of great strength, and was erected under the super- intendence of Sir John Rennie, at a cost of up- wards of 100,000/. The magnificent round head, on which the light-house is built, cost 30,000/. The new North Pier is also a noble structure, but is not yet completed. The port of Whitehaven includes within its jurisdiction the harbours of Workington, jNIary- port, Harrington, Ravenglass, and Millom, with all the intermediate coast, extending from mid- stream in the river Duddon, northward to Mary- port, a distance of nearly fifty miles. It also extends seaward to 10 fathoms water. Two acts of parliament, passed in the 7th and 11th of Queen Anne, incorporated " twenty-one trustees of the harbour and town of \Mntehaven," with power to levy duties for the purpose of building quays, piers, and otherwise improving the haven and town. Their power has since been extended by acts of parliament passed in 1739, 17C6, 1788, 1792, and 1818. Twenty of the trustees are elected tricnnially ; the inhabitants who pay harbour dues choose 1 4 of them by ballot, and 6 are appointed by the lord of the manor who is always to be one. 'I'hc jurisdiction of the harbour trustees extends northward from the Old Quay to Redness Point. Ry the act of 58 Geo. III. the lord of the manor and eleven or more of the other trustees, have power to reduce and vary 3 E 398 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. the harbour dues, which have consequently been reduced 25 per cent.f The spring-tides rise twenty feet, and the neap-tides twelve feet ; yet the old harbour is dry at low water. Inside of the New West Quay there is nine feet at low water. The depth of the haven below the adjoining banks is of peculiar advantage in loading the vessels with coals from the adjoining collieries, by means of staiths or hurries extended over the quay. In the year 1772 there were 197 vessels be- longing to this port; in 1790, 216 vessels; in 1810, 188 vessels, tonnage, 29,312; in 1822, 181 vessels, tonnage, 26,220; in 1828, 197 vessels, tonnage, 30,960; in 1840, 217 vessels, tonnage, 36,800. The average annual quantity of coals exported from this port, from the year 1781 to 1792, was 80,000 chaldrons ; for the five years ending De- cember, 1814, the average annual amount was about 100,000 waggon-loads, besides a very con- siderable inland consumption. In 1826 upwards of 135,602 chaldrons were exported ; and in 1827 1 1 4,692 chaldrons. The average quantity of coals now exported amounts annually to about 250,000 tons. A life-boat was stationed at this port in 1803. The custom-house was erected in 1811. Avery considerable part of the shipping is engaged in the coal-trade with Ireland. Several large vessels, however, are employed in the importation of West Indian, American, and Baltic produce. Large quantities of lime are shipped here for Scotland, and iron ore, from the parishes of Arlecdon and Cleator, for the furnaces in Wales. f Parson and White. PARISH OF ST. BF.ES. 399 "Ship-building is carried on here to a consid- erable extent, and on a system that has acquired for the artificers a high reputation. Sti'ength is the great desideratum in vessels employed in the coal-trade, and the shipwrights here have the art of giving them great sohdity and firmness without clumsiness, so that they are said not only to be more durable, but to sail faster than vessels of the same description from any other port in the kingdom. Ships of 500 tons are frequently built here, and some have been built of considerably gi-eater burthen." * o The CoAL-PiTs.f The collieries of Whitehaven are supposed to have been first wrought for foreign consumption about the middle of the seventeenth century. J The first steam-engine in use at Whitehaven was erected by Sir James Lowther, early in the last century, at the Ginns, for raising water. The first steam-engine used for raising coals was put up in 17S7, at George-pit, in Whingill coUiery ; others were erected for the same purpose in 1793, 1794, and 1795.§ • DanicU's Voyage. t Further particulars respecting the coal-pits — which the nature and limits of the present volume prevent our detailing — may be found in DanieU's " Picturesque Voyage round Great Britain," and in Dr. Dixon's Life of Dr. Brownrigg. X In the year 1306 " both houses of parliament complained of the use of coals as a nuisance, corrupting the air with its stink and smoke; and the use thereof in London was prohibited by royal proclamation." 4 "Cumberland has tlic merit of the discovery of gas-lightj. and it belonged to Mr. Spedding of Whitehaven, the agent of Sir James 3 E 2 400 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. " The coal seams that lie in the bowels of the earth, and below the bed of the sea, have been wrought for many j'ears with such spirit and perseverance that a kind of subterraneous city is formed ; and Whitehaven, with the adjacent coast, may be said to rest upon continued ranges of columns composed of coal. Several bands or seams of coal shew themselves in various places on the sloping surface, on the west side of the vale, above and on the sea-shore near the town. On the first attempt to work the coal near Whitehaven, a level, or watercourse, was driven from the bottom of the valley, near the Pow- beck, till it intersected a seam of coal, known by the name of Bannock Band, and drained a con- siderable field of coal, which was drawn out of pits from 20 to 60 yards deep. After this another level was driven westward, from near the farm house called Thicket, across the seam called the Main Band. This level also effectually drained a large bed of coals, which were drawn out of the pits by men with jack-rowls, or wind- lasses, and then carried to the ships on the backs of galloways, in packs of 1 i stones each." " There are five workable coal seams in the Howgill colliery, viz. the Crow Coal, which is about 2 feet thick and 60 yards deep ; the Yard Band, 4 feet thick and 160 yards deep; the Bannock Band, 8 feet thick and 200 yards deep ; Lowther, who was killed by the fulminating damp, in 1755. Mr. Sped- ding offered to supply the trustees of the harbour with whatever gas they wanted to light the town, if they would be at the expence of conducting it through the streets. The gas was accordingly conducted by pipes from the pits to the open air, where [the flame was constantly seen burning." — Monthly Magazine, May, 1817. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 401 the Main Band, 1 1 feet thick and 240 yards deep ; and the bottom seam, which is o feet thick and 320 yards deep. To the southward of Howgill, these seams are thrown much nearer the surface by Dikes, or perpendicular rents of the sohd strata, varying from two feet to several fathoms in breadth, and filled with clay, stones, cVc. The largest of these dikes runs nearly in the direction of east and west. The coal seams always keep at equal distances from each other, and dip or descend sloping nearly due west, about one yard in ten. "Sir James Lowthcr, who died in 1755, was at considerable expense for the purpose of im- proving the manner of working his coal mines, and despatched one of his agents, Mr. Carlisle Spedding, to inspect some of the principal col- lieries in Northumberland, where he remained a considerable time in the capacity of a ' hewer/ under the assumed name of Dan. A\'hen Mr. Spedding returned, he introduced many improve- ments in the coal mines at AVhitehaven, and invented the steel wheel and flints, by which sparks of fire were produced to light the collier in those parts of the mines where a burning can- dle would have ignited the carburetted hydrogen gas, or fire damp,* by the explosion of which so • " In the coal minc3 at Wliitcliaven, the fire-damp and clioak-damp are found in great abundance. The former may be considered of the same nature as hydrogen gas; though its specific gravity is greater on account of a small quantity either of hepatic gas, or carbonic acid gas ; which forms a part of its composition. It is, however, considerably lighter than atmospheric air, and, in consequence, ascends to the upper part of the mine. To prevent its accumulation, it was formerly a prac- tice with the workmen to set fire to it by the flame of a candle ; using 402 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. many lives ha^e been lost at different periods. On one of these melancholy occasions Mr. Sped- ding fell a victim to the burning fluid, about the the precaution of lying prostrate on the ground during its explosion ; but this dangerous expedient has been long relinquished. It is inflamed the moment -when a combination is formed between it and atmospheric air ; the difference, however, of their specific gi'avity renders some agitation of the latter necessary to produce the combination. The miners are often burnt, maimed, or killed by its sudden explosion, when in contact with an ignited body. Such accidents, have happily become less fre- quent, and fatal, in consequence of an ingenious invention of Mr. Carlisle Spedding. This is a steel wheel, moved by tooth and pinion, which is turned round with great veloeity, and strikes against a large piece of flint. The sparks which are emitted by this collision are a sufficient substitute for the light of a caudle, and expose the workmen to little or no danger. " The fire-damp appears to have first attracted the notice of philoso- phers in 1733. Bladders filled with it were presented to the Royal So- ciety by Sir James Lowther, who had procured it from the collieries at Whitehaven ; and so carefully had it been confined in the bladders, that on applyiug the flame of a candle, it was observed to retain its inflam- mability. An artificial fire-damp was obtained in 1736, by Jlr. John Maud, from iron dissolved in oil of vitriol. Being received into bladders, it was exhibited to the Royal Society, and on examination was dis- covered to possess the same qualities as the native fire-damp. '■ The choak.damp derives its name from its power of suffocation. It is distinguished by the properties of being equally injurious to combustion and respiration. It extinguishes the flame of a candle, deprives animals of life, and precipitates the lime of lime-water. Its specific gravity ex- ceeds that of atmospheric air, and it therefore occupies the bottom of tlie mine. It agrees, in a great measure, witli that subtile exhalation long known to Leonardo di Capoa, and other Italian philosophers, under the appellation of Moflette. It appears to be similar to the spiritus sylvestris of Paracelsus, the gas sylvestrc of Van Helmont, the spiritus sulphureus aereo-a;therio-elasticus of Hoffman, the acidum centrale perpetuum in- exhauribile of Becher ; the acidum vagum fodinarum of Boerhaave ; and the detached or elastic air of Dr. Hales. It has a near aflinity also to that permanently clastic fluid extracted by Dr. Black from magnesia, PARISH OF ST. BEES. 403 year 1755, since which several effective inven- tions have been produced for the purpose of pre- venting accidents in coal mines." A description of the coal mines, and of tlie operations carried on in those subterraneous regions, is given in the subjoined note,* from the limestone, chalk, and other substances, wliich was called by him fixed air, from its being supposed to exist in those bodies in a fixed state ; but long preserved the name of mcphitic air ; and is now, with peculiar pro- priety, termed, according to the French nomenclature, carbonic acid gas." — Literary Life of Dr. Brownrigg. • " We fixed ourselves in the basket, standing with our hands grasp- ing the chain, the word was given, and down wc glided with a smooth and scarcely perceptible motion through a duct about six feet in diameter, and wooded all round I kept my eyes fixed on the aperture above, which contracted as I fell, till at a vast depih I was obliged to look down as my head grew dizzy, and small pieces of coal and drops of water struck with unpleasant force against my face. As we descended lower all be- came darkness, noise over our heads grew gradually more indistinct, till it died away, and a dreary silence ensued, broken only occasion- ally by the grating of the basket against the walls. At length, after a descent of five hundred and seventy six feet, I heard the voices of men below me, and presently perceived two dim lights. These were at the High Eye, formerly at the bottom of the shaft, on a level with which is a great extent of workings. I asked no questions here — " steady the bas- ket," cried our guide, and in a moment we were again in utter darkness. In a quarter of a minute more I heard other voices below me — the basket stopped and we soon found ourselves on our feel at the bottom of six hundred and thirty feet from the light. " I could here distinguish nothing but a single candle, with the obscure form of a man by it — all around was pitch dark, not a ray of light reach- ing the bottom from the mouth of the shaft. Before wc proceeded to ex- plore the mine, we were recommended to remain quiet a little in order to collect ourselves, and while we were thus striving to be composed, my nerves were momentarily shocked by a combination and succession of strange noises, among which the loud clank of the chain as the empty basket dashed to the ground, was particularly offensive. I never saw 404 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. pen of a gentleman who was an eye-witness of what he describes; the pit he visited was the the object, and had no notice of its approach, till its infernal crash alwaj's came to make me jump out of myself. " While we were conversing here on the possible accidents that might occur in ascending or descending in the basket, we were told of a poor woman who lately had an extraordinary escape. It was her business to attach the chain of the basket, and while she was doing this her hand became somehow entangled, and the man at the engine setting it in motion before the proper time, she was pulled from the ground before she could extricate herself, and dragged up as she hung by one arm, to the top of the pit, with no injury but a slight laceration of her hand. " I had not become quite reconciled to the clank when we were sum- moned to go on. From the foot of the shaft we proceeded through a very long passage cut through rock, with the roof arched, and the sides faced with bricks and whitewashed. All the rock passages through - out the mine are faced with bricks in a similar manner, an enormously expensire precaution, but absolutely, necessary to prevent the falling down of loose fragments of stone. I cannot describe scientifically, or ■with any degree of clearness and certainly, all the methods of proceeding that have been adopted in laying out these vast subterranean works, and indeed such an account is scarcely called for, as the mine no doubt very much resembles in its general plan many others that have been often described. In its present state as far as I could ascertain as I groped my way through the darkness, it appeared in the meeting and crossing of its numerous passages, to resemble the streets of a city — and of a city of no mean extent, for we sometimes walked for nearly half a mile without turning, between walls of coal or rock. To the right and left of the long lanes are workings, hollow spaces, five yards wide and twenty deep, left for the support of the roof, so that only one third of a bed of coal is taken away. Mr. Pennant observed, that these columns appeared to him to be stores for future fuel, but they are left standing merely from necessity, and no material portion of them could be removed without danger to the great superstnicturc which they tend to uphold. "The coals are dragged from the workings in baskets, one at a time, by horses, and carried to a place of general rendezvous, where by means of a crane they are placed on to the trams, nine of which, bearing a burthen of nearly sis tons, are drawn by a single horse to the shaft. A tram is a PARISH OF ST. BEES. 405 William pit, " the last opened, and said to be the best planned work of its kind, and the most square board supported by four very low wheels, nnd a horse drags iiiiie ot'lhem with their full cargo along an iron railway without any apparent etfort. " The veotUation of the mine in its remotest comers is said to bo as per- fect as is necessary, though I confess tliat iu some places I felt no little dilliculty in lireathing. The air is rarefied by heat from a large fire kept constantly burning, and the current directed to the various workings through conduits formed by boarded partitions placed about a foot dis- tant from the walls. Doers are placed at intervals in the long passages which stop the air in its course and force it through the conduits in the workings to the right or left. • • * « " The sensations excited in me as I w'as descending down the pit did not readily subside, and I wandered about the mine with my mind very much upon the alert, and under an indistinct apprehension of some possible danger which gave intensity to my interest in every thing that I heard and saw. A dreariness pervaded the place which struck upon the heart — one felt as if beyond the bounds allotted to man or any living being, and transported to some hideous region unblest by every charm that cheers the habitable world. We traced our way through passage after passage in the blackest darkness, sometimes rendered more awful by a death-like silence, which was now and then broken by the banging of some distant door, or an explosion of gunpowder, that pealed with a loud and long report through the unseen recesses of the mine, and gave us some idea of its vast extent. Occasionally a light appeared in the distance before us, which did not dispel the darkness so as to discover by whom it was borne, but advanced like a meteor through the gloom, accompanied by a loud rumbling noise, the cause ol which was not ex- plained to the eye till we were called upon to make way for a horse, which passed by with its long line of baskets, and driven by a young girl covered with filth. • • • • " Our guide now led us to a passage where, in a small stream of water that flowed through it, we heard some air bubbling up, which he knew to be hydrogen : he applied a candle to it, when it instantly took fire, burning with a clear blueish light, in a flame not larger than that from a small lamp. It continued visible when we had receded to a consider. 3 F 406 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. complete in all its conveniences of any in the kingdom." able distance from it, and had a very beautiful appearance, shining like a brilliant star in the daikness, and giving an effect of exceeding depth to the gloomy avenue before us. While we were gazing at it, with the profoundest stillness around us, we were startled by a report as loud as a clap of thunder, proceeding from an explosion of gunpowder. Ou going to the spot from whence it came, we found some men working a passage through abed of rocks, called in the language of miners, a. fault, a phenomenon too familiar in coal mines to require any comment from me. This part of the mine was very remote from the shaft, and so im- perfectly ventUated, that the heat and stench in it were scarcely sup - portable. " Not far from this place our guide regarded me with a very big and signiiicant look, and produced all the effect he intended on my mind, when he informed me that I was walking under thesea, and had probably ships sailing over my head. Considering this as the most extraordinary situation that we had been in during our subterranean excursion, he pulled out a bottle of spirits from his pocket and drank our healths and a safe return to us, with all due solemnity. This rite fulfilled, we turned our steps towards the shaft, oppressed by the heat and fouhiess of the air, and anxious again to see the day. We had walked about four miles, in various directions, but had not explored half the mine, even in its lower part, and had a labyrinth of excavations over our heads as numerous and extensive as those through which we had been rambling, and sepa- rated from them by a roof only nine fathoms thick. I was astonished to hear that the whole of this immense work was the labour of scarcely ten years ; that the extensive space through which we had passed, and the whole mine that we had left unexplored, were within this short period a solid body of coal and rock. The labour going on before our eyes ap- peared quite insignificant, and imagination could scarcely conceive the formation by such means of this vast place, which struck one as some strange creation by the giant hands of nature. " We ascended to the higher works by a very steep path, which, at an elevation of about sixty feet from the lower level, opens into the shaft. The miners figuratively call the shaft the eye of the mine, and this inlet into the upper excavations is denominated the High Eye. It was here PARISH OF ST. BEES. 407 The new Wellington pit, which is no^y sinking on the western side of the harbour, will be work- ed deeper than any other in the kingdom : it is now sunk to a depth of seventy fathoms and thirty years may elapse before it is completed. The principal workings will extend under the sea to a distance of one mile and a half. that our guide bad given hU warning of ' steady Uae basket," lest it strike against the landing in its descent. AU the coals procured from under- .vorkings were formerly dragged up to the point by horses, but the task was found so difficult and tedious that it was thought expedient to smk the shaft to its present level. From the edge of the landing place at the High Eye, I had a peep .at the day through the opening which appeared at a dreadful height above my head, and contracted to a spot not bigger than the palm of my hand. "Aswcwerc not promised the sight of any novelty m the upper mine wc did not enter it, but returned to the lower one, from whence we proceeded to the shaft of the James mine, through a long up-cast passage, which, in consequence of a late accident, exhibits one of the most awful spectacles that can be conceived. An unusual quantity of coals were taken from it. and it was thought necessary, for the support of the roof, to plant two rows of posts under it, which were composed of the trunks of the largest oaks Uiat could be procuied. They had not been toed long when the roof began to sink, descending very slowly, but with irresistible force, and bending or breaking every tree that stood beneath it. It did not sink much more than a foot, and people now pass fearlessly under it. in Uie conviction that it has permanently settled. The passage, however, bears a very tremendous afpcarance, and 1 did not go through it without some agitaUon. The broken and splintered trees remain, and are such formidable mementos of the insecurity of the roof that I voluntarily quickened my pace as 1 looked at them, lest I should hear the coals again cracking over my head. This part of our expedition was rendered exceedingly dUagreeable by a sulphureous stream of water which flowed down the steep, casting forth an odour which touched even the nose of our guide. At the top of the passage are the stables belonging to the two mines, in which forty horses arc kept, which never see the \ishi."-DanielVs Voyage. 3 F 2 o 40s allerdale ward, above derwent. Charities. The Marine School was founded in 1S17, by Matthew Piper, Esq., of Whitehaven, a member of the Society of Friends, who munificently en- dowed it with 2000/. navy five per cent, annui- ties, vested in the hands of fifteen trustees, "for the 'education of sixty poor boys resident in the town of Whitehaven or the neighbourhood, in reading, writing, arithmetic, gauging, navigation, and book-keeping.' The present school-room was erected by William, Earl of Lonsdale, in 1818, and opened in 1822. Previous to bein admitted to this seminary, every boy must be able to read the New Testament, and be upwards of eight years of age. None are allowed to re- main more than five years. Although this school is intended to convey such nautical instruction as shall qualify its pupils to act as mates and mas- ters of vessels, they are not placed under any obligation to go to sea, as the name of the insti- tution may be supposed to imply." On the wall is this inscription : — MARINE SCHOOL endowed by MATTHEW PIPER, ESQ., 1818. The same benevolent gentleman left 1 000/. for the use of the soup kitchen ; and in 1825, Joshua Dixon, Esq., RI.D., late of Whitehaven, left a legacy of 50/. for the like purpose. The following benefactions are distributed by the churchwardens to the poor, at the chapel of the Holy Trinity, annually at Christmas : — "11. 185., the interest of 200/., left about 50 PARISH OF ST. BEES. 409 years ago, by the Rev. Thomas Sevvell, for twenty })oor widows ; 5/., the interest of 100/., vested in Maryport Harbour, and bequeathed by Joseph Glaister, Esq., in 1773; and il. 4s., being part of the interest of 400/., vested in government stock four per cents, and bequeathed, in 1S19, by ISIrs. Barbara Birkhead, who directed the re- mainder of the interest, (12/. 12,v.) to be paid to two individuals during their lives." There are in Whitehaven a number of religious and charitable institutions, unendowed ; — among Avhich may be named — the Dispensary, tlie House of Recovery, a Humane Society for the recovery of persons apparently drowned, the Ladies' Be- nevolent Society for visiting and relieving the sick poor, the Ladies' Charity for married women in childbed, the Blanket and Clothing Society, the Samaritan Society, cV'c, besides several Day and Sunday Schools, which are supported by voluntary contributions. Uottington. Rottington is a hamlet and township near the sea-shore, thus noticed by Mr. Sandford : — " one mile from St. Bees you have Rotington Hall and Towne, the ancient seat of Mr. Sands, from whence Bishop Sands was derived Nye there* I have gott many fine Aggots and precious stones that wold cut glass like diamonds." Rottington belonged anciently to a family who took their name from the manor. It passed from * At Fleswick, on the sea-shoie, wliere many valuable pebbles are still /ound. 410 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. them by marriage to the Sandes,* wlio were originally seated at Burgh-upon-Sands, " where they had their capital mansion-house, at a place called to this day Sandsfield, from which they took their sm-name." It passed from them by sale (for the sum of 700/.) to the Curwens of Workington-hall. Henry Curwen, Esq., devised it to Henry Pelham, Esq., from whom it was purchased, in 1762, by Sir James Lowther, Bart., afterwards Earl of Lonsdale. It is now the pro- perty of the present Earl. The iiianor of Weddicar, which formerly be- longed to the Ponsonby family, is now also the property of the Earl of Lonsdale. By an inquisition, j^ost mortem, of Thomas de Multon, of EgTemout, 15th Edward II., it ap- pears that John, son of Rayner le Fleming, held of the said Thomas, the hamlets of Rotington, Wedacre, Beckermet, Frisington, and Arlocden, by homage and fealty and suit of the court of Egremont, &c. • Sandes, or Sandys, of St. Bees. — This famUy -was originally of Burgh-on-Sands, teing called in ancient evidences De Sabulonibus. One of llie family was knight of the shire, temp. Ric. II. They had been settled at Rottingtou in St. Bees, for five descents, at the time of the visitation in 1015. The family has been long extinct in Cumberland; but some of the male descendants still remain ; from William Sandys, a younger son of this family, who went into Lancashire, descended Archbishop Sandys, common ancestor of the late Lord Sandys of Om- bei-slcy, the baronets of Cambridgesliire and Kent, all extinct. Sir Edwin Bayntun Sandys, Bart., now of Miserden Park, in Gloucestershire, and otlier branches. The arms are not described in St. George's Visitation, 1615; it is un- certain, therefore, what coat was borne by the Cumberland family. The several branches above-mentioned have borne three moors' heads, and three cross crosslets variously combined, with one or with two chevrons and of various colours.— iysons. PARISH OF ST. BRES. 411 Xrt]ftfr=JLJLtasBalr. Nether-Wasdale is a chapelry at the foot of Wast-Water, and contains the whole of that ro- mantic lake.* The lord of the manor is ^Nlajor- * The Rev. W. Ford, B.A., in his Guide to the Lakes, gives the fol- lowing account of Wast-Water, and the magnificent mountain scenery with which it is environed : — " Wast-Water is three miles and a half long, and three quarters of a mile broad, the depth is from forty to fifty fathoms, and it is probably owing to this, in proportion to the extent of its surface, that it has never been known to freeze. Trout in great quantities, and a few char, frequent its waters The chief feeders are Over Beck on the south of Yewbarrow, and Xethcr Beck on the north of Middle Fell, issuing from tarns near the Haycocks, and running through Bowderdale. The waters arc discharged by the Irt at Raven- glass. "Being a border lake, its end lying in the low country, whilst its head is nestled in the mountains, it appears from the foot to the greatest ad- vantage, and is under that aspect most distinguished for sublimity. The mouutains are naked lo their base, their sides and summits are uniform, shooting up mto lofty points and ending in pyramidical forms. Looking upwards, Yewbarrow forms a fine apex ; Kirkfell pushes forward its front to the left; and at the head of the dale, the Gable appears conspicuous. On the right, Lingmell comes finely forward, over which the pikes of Sea- fell reign supremo. Up the side vale of Bowderdale, is the Haycock ; and the Pillar crowns the head of Mosedale. Middle Fell runs along the margin of the lake ; and on the opposite side are the Screes, which seem going to decay, their foundation in the water, and their surface and soil being gone, while immense debris and torrents of rocks and stones cover their sides. This range of fell prevents the circumambulation of the lake. Proceeding onwards, a retrospective view of Yewbarrow, the Gable, and the Pikes, seen over Over Beck Bridge, is a fine picture. From Nether Beck Bridge the road passes over a rising ground, and from a field in front of Crookhead, where a beautiful cottage has been built by Stans- field Rawson, Esq., of Halifax, is one of the finest views of Wastdale Head and Water." " On the top of the Screes, stoodforages, avcry large stone, called Wil- 412 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. General Wyndham, of Cockermouth Castle, to whom it was bequeathed by his noble father, the late Earl of Egremont. Wasdale-hall,"* the beautiful seat of Stansfield Rawson, Esq., of Halifax, is situated at Crook- head, on some cultivated land, amid this barren district, and " derives an interest from the as- semblage of picturesque magnificence in its vicinity." The Chapel. — The Chapel of Nether-Wasdale was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty at 51. per annum, and was returned to the commissioners for enquiring concerning ec- clesiastical revenues as of the average annual value of 66/. The living is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the incumbent of the mother-church of St. Bees. The impropriation belongs to Edward Stanley, Esq., jNI.P., of Ponsonby-hall ; the tithes having been purchased by his ancestor, Edward Stanley, Esq., from Sir Thomas Chaloner, to whom they had been granted on the dissolu- tion of the priory of St. Bees. The chapel is ten miles distant from the mother-church. The present incumbent is the Rev. J. Douglas, who was appointed in 1S27. The chapelry of Wasdale-Headf forms part of son's horse, but atout twenty years ago it fell down into the lake, when a cleft was made about 100 yards long, four feet wide, and of incredible depth." • Engraved in Fisher's Northern Tourist. t The chapelries of Wasdale-Hcad, Nether-Wasdale, and Eskdale, adjoin each other, and form a large mountainous district of about forty square miles, very thinly iiopulated. PARISH OF ST. BEES. 413 the manor of Kskdale, of which Majov-General Wyndham, of Cockermouth castle, is lord. Mr. •John Denton speaks of Wasdale as a waste full of red deer,f " the inheritance of the earl of Northumberland ; and before, the Lucy's lands, being a parcel of their third part of the barony of Egremont, which Thomas Lucy got with his wife Margaret, one of the daughters and coheirs of .John Moulton, last of that name. Baron of Egremont." This lonely district, surrounded by barren and lofty mountains, comprises a level area of about 400 acres, "divided by stone walls into small irregular fields, which have been cleared with great industry and labour ; as appears from the enormous heaps of stones, piled up from the sur- plus after completing the enclosures." In Hut- chinson's Cumberland it is stated, that " one of the land-owners, whose name is Fletcher, derives the family possessions here, from a course of not less than 700 years." This small hamlet is supposed to have been formerly more populous: in 1792, it contained only 47 inhabitants. The Chapel— Was certified to the governors of Queen Ann's bounty, of the value of 3/. per annum. In 1719, it received an augmentation by lot of 200/. It is situated fourteen miles from the mother church. This " unwealthy mountain benefice" is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the incumbent of St. Bees ; and was returned to the commissioners for enquiring respecting ecclesias- tical revenues as of the average annual value of t Nicolson and Bum say, here " is a large forest of deer, which ex. tends as far as Styhead in Boredalc." 3 G 414 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. 49/. The present incumbent is the Rev. Joseph Kitchen, who was appointed in 1819. The tithes belong to Edward Stanley, Esq., INI.P., of Pon- sonby-hall, having been purchased by his ancestor, Edward Stanley, Esq., from Sir Thomas Chaloner, to whom they had been granted on the dissolu- tion of the priory of St. Bees. In ] 792, the in- cumbent's certain income was only about 20/. per annum, arising from lands purchased entirely from Queen Ann's bounty: this, however, was increased by contributions from the inhabitants. The dispute between the Earl of Lonsdale and Mr. Banks, of Wasdale, respecting the right of pi'esentation to tliis living, was terminated in 1S19 : the Bishop of Chester, to whose considera- tion the matter was referred, having expressed his opinion in favour of the latter, the noble Earl withdrew his claim.* The Chapel is a very small humble edifice,f * Carlisle Journal, Nov. 13, 1819. t Mr. Wordsworlh, in his " Description of the Scenery of the Lakes," makes the following beautiful remarks on the mountain churches and chapels :--" The architecture of these churches and chapels, where they have not been recently rebuilt or modernised, is of a style not less ap- propriate and admirable than that of the dwelling-houses and other stnicttires. How sacred the spirit by which our forefathers were directed ! The religio loci is no where violated by these unstinted, yet unpretend- ing, works of human hands. They exhibit generally a well-proportioned oblong, with a suitable porch, in some instances a steeple tower, and in others nothing more than a small belfry, in which one or two bells hang visibly. But these objects, though pleasing in their forms, must neces- sarily, more than others in rural scenery, derive their interest from the sentiments of piety and reverence for the modest virtues and simple manners of humble life with which they may be contemplated. A man must be very insensible who would not be touched with pleasure at the sight of the chapel of Buttcrmcre, so strikingly expressing, by its dimi- PARISH OF ST. BEES. 415 (near the half-dozen houses composmg the ham- let,) containing eight pews, and unprovided with a burial-ground: the dead are buried at the chapel of Nether-Wasdale. iSnnfrOalc. Ennerdale is a chapelry under St. Bees in- cluding the townships of Ennerdale, Ennerda e- Hi^^h-End, and Kinneyside. Although it has by some been considered as a separate parish or parochial chapelry, yet its dependency under bt. Bees was estabUshed by a verdict given at Carhsle, in 1G90, and it was returned as such under the population act. The interest of 2\l. is distributed yearly to the poor of the chapelry ; but the donor is unknown. , . Mr. John Denton says, the Irish named it Lou. Ellen, married ... Crosby, of Ireland, Esq. John Ponsonby, Esq. married Anne, daughter of Copley, of Gosforth, Esq., and had several children. John Ponsonby, Esq. married Isabella, daughter of Thomas Patrick- son, of Scalegill Hall, in the county of Cumberland, and had issue nine children. John Ponsonby, Esq., married Dorothy, daughter of Miles Wilson, of Ashness, in the county of Cumberland, Esq., and had issue, 1. John, who died in Cumberland, a minor. 2. Miles, of whom hereafter. 3. Anthony. 4. William. 5. Mary. 6. Isabella. 7. Dorothy, manied . . . : Steel, Esq., of Cockermouth, and had issue. Miles Ponsonby, Esq. married Catherine, daughter of Wilfrid Cle- raentson, of Cockermouth, Esq., and had issue, 1. John, who died in thf East Indies. 2. Richard, died in the East Indies. 3. Miles, died in Cumberland. 4. Anthony, died in the West Indies. 5. William, died, a minor, iu Cumberland. 6. Martha, died in Cumberland. 7. Catherine, died in Cumberland. 8. Dorothy, of whom hereafter. 9. Mary, married E. C. Kuubley, Esq., of WhitehaTen, and has issue. 10. Catherine. Dorothy Ponsonby, married John Fisher, Esq., of Whiteliaven, wlio in right of his wife assumed the name and arms of Ponsonby, by the Ust will and testament of the late Miles Ponsonby, Esq., of Hale Hall, and has issue, 1. Thomas, died in Cumberland, a minor. 2. Miles, of whom hereafter. 3. Mary. 4. Catherine. 5. Dorothy. 6. John. Miles Ponsonby, Esq., of Hale Hall, married Barbara, daughter of Christopher Wilson, Esq., of Rigmaden Park, Westmorland, and has issue, i. Catherine Cumpstone Florence. 2. Dorothy J.ane. 3. Miles Do Hale, bom 11th May, 1841. APPENDIX. 437 LAMPLUGH OF LAMPLUGH. The following additions to the pedigree of the Lamphighs of Lam- plugh (see page 84) bring it down to the present time. They are taken from Burke's Commoners. John do Lamplugh, living 1st Henry VII., married Isabell, daughter of Sir John de Pennington, Knt., and had issue, John, his heir. Thomas, of Skellsmorc, in Cumberland, whose son, Adam, marrying Agnes, daughter of Robert Ben, of Cumber- land, had, witli two daughters, Jane and Mary, a sou, Thonnus of Little Itiston, in Yorkshire, anno 1581, who married Jane, daughter of Robert Fairfax, Esq. of Pock- thorpe, and had isssny, 1. Christopher, of Riston, in 1612, who married Anne, daughter and co-heir of Thomas Roper, of Oclon. 2. Thomas, who purchased the manor of Ribton, in Cumberland, and died in 1670, aged 83, leaving by Agues his wife, (with another son Richard,* who married Frances, daughter of Sir Christopher Low- ther, Bart., of Whitehaven), Thomas, U.D. Archbishop of York,t who mar- ried Catherine, daughter of Edward Uavenant, D.U., nephew of John Davenant, Bishop of Salisbury, and had a son and successor, Thomas Lamplugh, U. D. aiehdeacon of Richmond, born in 1661, who married a lady • This Richard dc Lamplugh left a daughter, Jane, married first, to John Senhouse, Esq., of Netherhall; and secondly, to Charles Orfcur, Esq., of Plumbland, in Cumberland. t Dr. Lamplugh, sometime fellow of Queen's College, Oxford, was successively rector of Binfield, in Berkshire, of Charlton-on-Ottmore, in Oxfordshire, principal of St. Alban's Uall, 0.\ford, archdeacon of Lon- don, prebendary of Worcester, vicar of St. Martin's in the Fields, dean of Rochester, bishop of Exeter, and archbishop of York, in which see he was cnthronized by proxy, 19th December, 1688. He died at Bishop- thorpe, 5th May, 1091, aged 76, and was buried in York Minster, where his monument bears the following inscription : " Hie in spe resurgendi depositum jacet quod morlale fuit Reverendissimi in Christo Patris Thoma; Lamplugh, archiepiscopi Eboracensis, S. T. P. ex antiqui ct gcncrosd Latnplughorum dc Lamplugh, in agro Cumbriensi Familiik oriundi." There is no positive proof that his Grace was exactly descend- ed OS stated in the text, though the presumptive evidence of the fact is strong. 3 K 438 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE BERWENT. named Margaret, and had, with other issue, a son and heir, Thomas Lamphigh, lector of Bolton Percy, and canon residentiaryof York, of whom hereafter, as inheritor of Lamplugh, upon tlie demise and under the devise of Thomas Lamplugh, Esq. John de Lamplugh was succeeded by his sou, Sir John de Lamplugh, knight, of Lamplugh, sheriff of Cumberland 29th Henry VIII. who marriecl first, Isabella, daughter of Sir Christopher Curwen, of Workington, and had by her a son, John, his heir. He married secondly, Catherine, daughter and co-heir of Guy Foster, of Howsam, and had three daughters, viz. Mary, married to Thomas Skelton. Wable. Frances, married to David Fleming, third son of Hugh Fleming. Sir John was succeeded by his son, John Lamplugh, of I-amplugh, who married two wives : by the first, Jane Blennerhassct, he had one son, Edward, who died issueless, and by the second, Isabel, daughter of Christopher Siaplelon, of Wighill, another son, his successor, Richard Lamplugh, Esq., of Lamplugh, father, by Alice Warde his wife, of John Lamplugh, Esq., of Lamplugh, who married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Edward Musgrave, knight, and dying in 1636, was succeeded by his son, John Lamplugh, Esq., of Lamplugh, born in 1019. This gentleman, devoted to the royal cause during the civil war, was colonel of a regiment of foot under Prince Rupert, and fought at Marston Moor, in 1644, where, commanding the Yellow Colours, he received several wounds, and was taken prisoner. He maiTied first, Jane, daughter of Hoger Kirby, Esq., of the county of Lancaster; secondly, Frances, LadyLow- ther, daughter of Christopher Lancaster, Esq., of Sockbridge, in W'cst- morlaud, and thirdly, Frances, daughter of Thomas Lamplugh, Esq. of Ribton. By the last only he had issue, viz. Thomas, his heir. Edward, died unmarried. John, died s. p. Elizabeth, second wife of Henry Brougham, Esq., of Scales, in Cumberland. Upon the demise of Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Lamplugh, in 177.3, the male line failing, this Elizabeth became heir general of the senior branch of the house of Lamplugh of Lamplugh, wliich is now represented by her eldest male descend- ant, Henry, Lord Brougham and Vaux. Phccbe, appears to have died unnuirricd. Colonel Lamplugh was succeeded at his decease by his eldest son, Thomas Lamplugh, Esq., of Lamplugh, born in 1657, who served the office of shcrifl' for Cumberland in the 13th William III. His son and successor, APPENDIX. 439 Thomas Lamplugh, Esq., of Lamplugh, by Frances his wife, had an only daughter and lieiress, Elizahclli, married to George Irton, Esq., of Irton, but died s. p. devising by will, dated 6th November, 1773, her estate at Dovenby '. to the Uev. Thomas Lamplugh, of Copgrove, in the county o' York, for life, with remainder, in default of male issue, to Pete"^ Brougham, descended from Elizabeth Lamplugh of Lamplugh* He succeeded in 1783. and died in 1791 s p. when Dovenby passed to his niece and heiress, Mary Dvkes. Mr Lamplugh died in J737, and bequeathed, by will dated 1731, "the capital messuage of Lamplugh 11 all, and the demesne lands of Lamplugh, &c. to his, the testator's cousin," The Rev. Thomas Lamplugh, rector of Bolton Percy, and canon resi- dentiary of York Minster, grandson of the archbishop of York. This gentleman married 17ih April, 1721, Honor, daughter of William Cha- loner, Esq., of Guisborough, in the county of York, and had issue, Thonias. his heir. Honor, died unmarried 2nd January, 1795. Mary, died unmarried before 1783. Katherine, co-heir to her brother Thomas, married the Bev. Godfrey Wollcv, rector of Thurnscoc, and of Warmsworth, and, dying in 1801, left issue, Edward Wolley, of FuKord Grange, and Nether Hall, in the county of York, who assumed the surname and arms of Copley in 1810. He died in 181.3. Thomas WoUuy, vice-admiral of the White, married, and has issue. Godfrey Wolley, in holy orders, rector of Hutton Bushel, died in 1^22. Isaac Wolley, captain R.N. married and had issue. Honor Wolley, married to the Kcv. Anthony Fountayne Eyre. Cordelia Wolley, married to George Bower, Esq., of Sheliield. Katherine Wnliey, married to John IJaper, Esq., of Lotherton, and was mother of the present John Lamplugh Lamplugh Raper, Esq , of Lamplugh. Mary Wolley. Anne, co-heir to her brother, who married 8th October, 1750, John Raper, Esq., of Abberford, in the coimty of York, and dying in July, 1 783, left a son, John Raper of .\bberford and Lotherton, who succeeded his uncle, Thomas Lamplugh, at Lamplugh. Jane, mirriid to Samuel Pdwson, of York, merchant. Sarah, died young. The Uev. Thomas Lamplugh was succeeded by his only son, The Rev. Thomas Lamplugh, of Lamplugh, rector of Copgrove and Goldesborough, and prebendary of Wislow, who married Mary, daughter of James Collins, gent, of Ivnartsborough and I'olcyfote, but, dying without issue in 1783, was succeeded by (the son of his sister Anne) his nephew, John Raper, Esq., of Abberford and Lotherton, who then became also "of Lamplugh." He married at Tulfurd. Kith October, 1789, Katherine, third daughter of the Rev. Godfrey Wolley, by Katherine, his wife, 3 K 2 440 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. daughter of the Rev. Thomas Lamplugh, of Laniplugh, aud had two sons and one daughter, viz. John-Lmnpluyh liaptr , his heir. Henry Kajier, of Linrohi's Icn,harrisler-at-law, born 12lh February, 1795, married IGth December, 1824, Gcorgiana third daughter of Jolin Moore, Esq. captain in the 5th regiment of Dragoon Guards. Ann Raper, married to James Brooksbank, merchant, of London, second son of Benjamin Brooksbank, Esq., of Healaugh Hall, in the West Riding of York. Mr. Raper died the 3rd of July, 1821, and was succeeded by his elder sou, John Lamidugh Lamplugh-Raper, Esq., of Lamplugh, in the county of Cumberland, and of Lolherton, in Yorkshire, boni at Abberford 19th July, 1790; married 25th October, 1813, Jaue, second daughter of Benjamin Brooksbank, Esq,, of Healaugh Hall, in the West Riding of York. This gentleman, whose patronymic is Raper, assumed by sign manual, 10th March, 1825, the additional surname and arms of Lamplugh. LEWTHWAITE OF BROAD GATE IN MILLOM. Arms: — Ermine a cross florj' azure fretty or. Crest: — A garb or, bo\iiid by a serpent nowed proper, holding in the mouth a cross crosskt litcliee gules. Motto : — Tendons ad xthera virtus. Thomas Lewthwaite, of Whicham, married a daughter of ... . Newby, of Haverigg, and had a sou, Thomas Lewthwaite, bom 8th December, 1588, married a daughter of ... . Askew, of Greymains. This 'i'honias purchased Broad Gate, and settled there : he died in 1067, having had three cliildren, 1 John, a captain in a regiment of foot raised by Sir William Hud- Icston. of Millom Castle, for the service of King Charles I. in which loyal cause he was slain at Edge Hill, in 1G42, s. p. 2. James, who succeeded his father. 3. Margaret, married William Beuson of Wabcrthwaite. James Lewthwaite, of Broad Gate, married Agnes, daughter of Wil- liam Dickson, Esq., of Beck bank, and had issue. 1. Jo/i)i, who succeeded his father. 2. Raliii, died in Loudon, 1697, «. p. 3. William, born at Broad Gate, 7th December, 1G67, a merchant at Gateshead, co. Durham, married Catherine, daughter of Sir Gilfrid Lawson, of Brayton, Bart, aud had issue, 1. Alfred, who died an infant. 2. John, a merchant at \\hileliavcii, married Grace, daughter of Robert Jackson, Esq., of Bransty House, and had a son, Gilfrid, drowned whilst bathing behind the North I'ier, Whitehaven, and was buried at St. Nicholas's, in thf^t town, .\'jgust 3rd 1779, s. p. 4. James, of Lady Hall, married a daughter of Mylcs Wennington, Esq., of Greystonc House, and had two sons, 1. James, settled in Chester,_aud had issue. APPENDIX. '^^'■ 2. John, married Elizabeth, daughter of James Lancaster, and had issue two sons, , , , • 1. John, settled in London, and had issue. 2. George, of Ulvcrston, died s. p. 5. Anthonv, died at Lancaster, «. p. 1. Elizabeth, i 2. Agnes. > all died s. p. 4' ElteTmmied William Robinson, of Waberlhwaite, and had a daugluer Elizabeth, married John Halied, and had issue one son, WUliam Halied. who died in Dublin m 1 /80, s. p. Tnbn Lewthwaitc of Broad Gate, married Eleanor, daughter of George \vSew!Es.r"f Woodland, in the parish of Kirby Ireleth, co. Lan- caster, and had issue, 1. James, died young, «. p. I Sr: m^^^'.ol^e:^. of St. James- Street. London. ""'LCharirLec Lewis, a celebrated comedian. raaiTied and L'EUzXth Lewis, married , . . . Dawkh.s '^■^^ died .^ p , , 2. Elizabeth, married John Addison, gentleman, of Ka>englass, and had issue, . , . , j 1 Henry Addison, died m London, s. p. '2 Tohn Addison, died in London. $.p. . , „ ct i r El izabeth.\ddison. married George Fenwick, Esq. of Lamb- ton. CO. Durham, and had issue, William Fenwick. George. John. Addison. Ralph. Robert. 2. Elizabeth, died unmarried. William Lewthwaitc, of Broad Gate, married Elizabeth, J^»'£l"cr of JoS^ To^rs, Esq., of ilocklcr Hall, in the county of Lancaster, and 'l j'oltn, who succeeded his father. 2 HWiam, of whom hereafter. man and had issue, . , . , 1 Thomas Posllcihwaite, died in London unmarried. 2. William, died in London immanied. 1 I'lizabeth. died unmarried. 2'. Agnes mirried John WUde, of Broughton, gentleman, and 2 ElizSh, married William Hunter, of Cross House, in MiUom, 3. Tg^lrm^a^i^'d-itm^'Bailey.of Broughton, in Furness, and 4. Margaret, married Taylor, a solicitor in Liverpool, and died t. p 442 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. John LcwAwaite, a merchant in Lancaster, died on his plantation, at Check Hall, iu the Island of Dominica, in June, 1781. Having mamed Mrs. Grice, of the Island of Antigua, and leaving no issue, he was suc- ceeded by his brother, William Lewtlnvaito, of Broad Gate and of Whitehaven, in the com- mission of the jjcace for the county of Cumberland, married JIary, daughter and coheir of Joseph Nicholson, of Millholm, in Boolle, gen- tleman, and had issue, 1. William, succeeded his father at Broad Gate. 2. John, married Margaret, eldest daughter of Roger Taylor, of Stott Park, in CO. Lancaster, and had issue, 1. William. 2. Gilfrid. 1. Marianne. 2. Franccs-Jane. 3. George, formerly of Queen's College, Oxford, B.D., rector of Adel, in the county of York, a magistrate for the West Riding, married Martha, daughter of Thomas Birlcy, Esq., of Low Mill, CO. Cumbeiland, and of Kirkham, co. Lancaster, and have issue, 1. William-Henry, of Trinity College, Cambridge, A.B. 2. George, of University College, Oxford. 1. Margaret. 4. Joseph, a merchant in the West Indies, died at Dominica, in 1818, unmarried. 5. Myles, died an infant. 6. Thomas, died young, unmarried. 1. Agnes, manicd the Rev. Richard Armitstcad, A.M., Rector of Moresby, and minister of St James', Whitehaven, and had issue, 1. Richard, a solicitor in Whitehaven. 2. William, in holy orders, incumbent of Lorton. 3. John, a solicitor in Sidney. 4. Joseph, died in Jamaica, s, p. 1. Wary. 2 Agnes. 3. Frances. 2. Mary, married Milham Hartley, of Rose Hill, Esq., in the commission of the peace for the county of Cumberland, high sherilf for the said county in 1818, and has issue, 1. John, of Moresby House. 2. Milliam, died young. 3. George. 4. Gilti id- William, of Rose Hill. 1. Mary Ann. 2. Isabella, died young. 3. Margaret, died young. 3. Ann, married Peter Dixon, Esq., of Newington, Surrey, and died in ISOS, s p. 4. Margaret, married Peter Taylor, of Bellfield, iu the county of Westmorland, Esq. 5. Frances, died young. 6. Elizabeth, of Hazel Mount. William Lewthwaitc, who succeeded his father in 1809, is in the commission of the peace for the county of Cumberland. He married APPENDIX. 443 Eleanor, daugLter of Thomas Cragg, of Lowescales, Esq., and has issue, 1. John, of Broad Gate, bom in 1792, married Anne, daughter of William Kirkbank, Esq., of Whicham, and has issue, 1. WUIiam. 2. Joseph. 3. George. 1- Mary. 2. Elizabeth. 3. Eleanor. 4. Agnes. 5. Ann. 1. Mary, manied William Postlethwaile, merchant and banker in Ulverston. 2. Agnes, married Robert Postlethwaite, of Broughton, Esq., and have issue, 1. Robert, died young. 2. John. 3. AVilliam. 1. Margaret, died young. 3. Eleanor, died young unmarried. 4. Elizabeth, died young unmarried. ORDER OF SUCCESSION OF THE BISHOPS OF CHESTER.* 1512 John Bird. Translated from Bangor 13 xVpril, 1542 ; deprived by Queen Mary in 1553 ; ob. 1556. 1554 George Cotes, Master of Haliol College, Oxford. Consecrated I April, 1354; ob. Dec. 1.555. 1556 Cuthbert Scot, Prebendary of St. Paul's. Appointed 24 April, 1556 ; deprived by Queen Elizabetli circa 1560. 1561 William Downman. Prebendary of Westminster. Elected 1 May, 1561 ; ob. 3 Dec. 1577. 1579 William Chaderton, Prebendary of York and Westminster. Con- firmed 7 Ncv. 1579; translated to Lincoln in 1595. 1595 Hugh Bellot. Translated from Bangor 25 June, 1595; ob. 1596, 1597 Richard Vaughau. Translated from Bangor 23 April, 1597 ; translated to London in 1604. 1604 George Lloyd. Translated from Sodor and Man, 1604 ; ob. 1 Aug. 1615, a;t. 55. 1616 Thomas Moreton, Dean of Winchester. Elected 22 May, 1616; translated to Lichfield and Coventry 1619. George Massic was nominated, but died before consecration. 1619 John Bridgman, Prebendary of Lichfield. Elected 15 March, 1G19 ; ob. 1657. THE SEE VACANT THBEE YEARS. 1660 Brian Walton, Prebendary of St. Paul's. Consecrated 2 Dec. 1660; ob. 29Nov. 166 1. 1662 Henry Feme, Dean of Ely. Consecrated Feb. 1662; ob. 16 March following, wt. 69. • Nicolas's Synopsis. 444 ALLERDALE WARD, ABOVE DERWENT. 1662 Georpe H,iU, Archdeacon of Canterbury. Consecrated 11 Mav, UiG-2 ; ob. 2Z Aug. 1GG8. 1668 John Wilkins, Prebendary of York. Consecrated 15 Nov. 1668; ob. 19 Nov. 1672. 1673 John Pearson, Prebendary of Salisbury and Ely. Consecrated 9 I'eb. 1673; ob. July, 1GS6. 1686 Thomas Cartwright, Piebendarv of Durham. Consecrated 17 Oct 1G86 ; ob. 15 April, 1689.' 1689 Nicholas Strafford, Dean of St. Asaph. Consecrated 15 Sept. 1689 ; ob. 1708. 1708 Sir William Dawes, Bart. Prebendary of Worcester. Consecrated 8 Feb. 1708 ; translated to York 1714. 1714 Francis Gastreil, Canon of Christ Church, Oxford. Consecrated 4 April, 1714; ob. 1725. 1725 Samuel Peploe, Warden of Manchester. Elected 1725; ob. 1752. 1752 Edmund Keene. Elected 1752; translated to Ely 1771. 1771 William Markham, Dean of Christ Church, Oxford. Elected 1771 ; translated 10 York 1777. 1777 Beilby Portcus. Elected 1777; translated to London 1787. 1787 William Cleaver, Prebendary of Westminster. Elected 1787 ; translated to Bangor 1800. 1800 Henry William Majcndie, Canon Residentiary of St. Paul's. Ele'cted 1800; translated to Bangor 18U9. 1809 Bowyer Edward Sparke. Elected 1809; translated to Ely 1812. 1812 George Henry Law. Elected 1812; translated to Bath and Wells 1824. 1824 Charles James Blomfield. Elected 1824 ; translated to London 1828. 1828 John Bird Sumner, Prebendary of Durham, formerly fellow of King's College, Cambridge. PARISH REGISTER BOOKS Earlier than the new Registers commencing with a. t>. 1813 [according to 52 Geo. HI. c. 146J remain at the following places : — Arlecilon P. C. -'Sosl. — IV. contain Baptisms, Burials, a. d. 1730 —1812; JIariiages, 1730- 1791,1798 1812. St. liees P. C— Nos I. Il.b.ip. 1538-1553, 1.5.58-1614,1620—1686; bur. 1538-161G, 1620-1683; marr. 1,5.39- 16 1:5, IGiO- 168,3, interrup- ted by No lU. bur. 167S-1700-NosIV.— Vll.bap.bur. 1697—1812; marr. IG97— 175.3— Nos VIII. -XI. marr. 1754—1812. £oo//«K.— Nos I.— III. Registers, 1G55— 1812— No IV. marr. 17G6 —1812. St. Bridget's P. C. — No. I. (loose paper, scarcely legible) bap. bur. marr. 1G75— 1733— No. II. bap. bur. 1734—1801 ; marr. 1734— 175.3— No. III. bap. bur. 1802-1812 No. IV. marr. 1751—1812. Ctealor P. C. — No. I. bap. bur. marr. 1572 — 1727 (imperfect) — No. II. (paichment) bap. bur. 1728—1808; marr. 1728— 17.53- No. III. bap. bur. 1809— 1812— Nos. IV. V. marr. 1754— 1812 Cfirst eight leaves delicient. Corny R.— No. I. General Register, 1754—1782— Nos. II. III. (parchnuiu) 17*3 — 1812. iJwdHf/ton H.— Nos. I.— III. bap. bur. 1653—1812; marr. 1653— 1763— Nos. IV- V. marr. 1754—1812. APPENDIX. 445 Drigg V. C.-Nos. I.-III. bap. bur. 1631—1812; mart. 1631—1753 ^°Ell„Z7ii'J^iMiv. bur. marr. 1630-1706 (imperfect)-Xos. 11 fv bap. bur 1707-1812; marr. 1707-1753-Nos. V. \ I. marr. 1754— 1&I2. ,„ „ . , „,, ,3..-, Ennerdale C.-Nos. l.-IH. Registers, 1043-1312. Eskdale C.-No. I. Registers, 1626-17/0_. delcctive 16ol-16o4. 1708-1712. 1726-1728-No. II. Register l"}'-!^!^' ,.,, .g,, Gosforth R.-Xo. I. bap. bur. marr. lo/ l-lo84, lo92-16I3, 1631— 164^?1662-1G74, 1680-17U1. 17U3-1728 1730-1740-Nos. 11 III. bap bur 1741-1812; niarr. 1741-1753-No. IV.marr 1/.J4-1812. W„Tp C -No I Rerislcr (parchment) 1545-1710 (very imper- fe5-X^os il. Ili. (pa'chmeaf) 1711-1812-No. IV. (parchment) ""^arrST^R.-No. I. bap. bur. marr. 10.^3-1719, (imrerfect)- Nof 11 Til. bap. bur. 1720-1812 ; marr. 1720-1753-No. 1\ . marr. ^Heiimnoham C— bap. 1811—1812; bur. 1612. ftZTv. C.-No^. (loose sheds fcar^ely legible) bap bur^arr. I6SO-1734-NO. II. bap. bur. 1735-1812; marr. 1735-17o3-No. "^;,™rP.a-iNos.''f.-ni. (parchment) l^ap. 1697-1755 1757- 1812; bur. 1697-1754, 1757-1812; marr. 1697-l/oO-No. n. ■"T„S7r.-Nos. I. II. bap. bur. «arr 1581-1660. 1686-172^ Nos. III. IV. bap. bur. 1725-1812 ; marr. 1725-1/53-No. V. marr. ^^i^i^ V'-No. I. General register, 1598-1657 (imperfect)-Nos. II. IIL1658-1788-NO. IV. 1789-1812-No. V. banusmarr. 1/54- 1812 Z:^^^^'Z^:^-^^- 1721-1812; marr. 1724- ''"^e^W^^ul^^^^ Genera, registers 1711-^812. PonsonbuVA\—^o.l- (parchment) bap. bur. l/23-l( /6 rnaCT. 17fri753-No.II.bap.b!;^777-1812-No.in.marrUo4-^^^^^^ KL^-^e U.-'no. I. bap. 1095-1770; bur. l^'S-nC^l; marr 1695— 1752-No. II. bap. 1777— 1812; bur. 1//8-1812; mair. 17j4 ~H5«/.7Ye<, bis, 254, 261, 270, .334, 348 bis, 350, 300, 301, 302, 303 ler, 300, 367, 369, 379, 385, 386, 399, 401, 402, 410, 418, 4.37, 4.38, 418, 450. Lucy, 22, 24, 26, 37 bis, 40, 41, 77, 235 bis, 361, 370. 413. Ludham, 10. Lutwidge, 201, 203, 204 note, 207, 298, 299. Mallory, 198. Maudevill, 150. Marlyiidale, 73. Mar>-, Queen of Scots, 244—247, 251, 372. Mason, 103. Massey, 282. Meredith, 100. Meschincs, 2 ter, 27, 33, 35, 36, 118, 1 19, 275, 309, 336, 3.37, 351 bis, 352 bis, 416. Michael the Falconer, 95. Middleton, 197, 372. Miller, 47. Millers, 175. Milhvard, 424. Montiigue, Marquis, 155. -Moore, 232, 437. Mordling, 318. Moresby, 6.5, 77. Moriceby, 138 bis, 338. Morrison, 233. Morthing, 117, 118, 138,317. Morvill, 37. Morys or Moorhouse, 90. Mulcaster, 213. 214, 2,33. Mullon, 3, 7. 26, 38—41, 55 bis, 77, 297, 298, 309, 435. Muncaster, Lord, pedigree of, 228. Muncaster, Lord, 96 bis, 99, 105, 110 bis, 114, 1.30, 181, 202, 209, 214, 217, 219,222,237,238,413. Muncaster, 99, 448. Munstcr, Earl of, 48. Murray, Earl of, 36. Musgrave, 80, 198, 217, 249 ter, 255, 373, 438. Myers, 192. Mytfurd, 283. 3 M 2 456 INDEX OF PERSONS. Nelson, 259. Nevil, 8. Nevill, 8, 42 ter, 157. Newby, 410. Nicholson, 207, 424, 442. Noble, 95 lis. Northumberland, Earl of, 28, 29, 108, see Percy. Orfeur, 10, 173, 437. Ormandy, 17G. Osbaldiston, 232. Park 92. Parke, 118 ter, 119, 122 bis, 123. Parson, 98. Patrickson, pedigree, 417. Patrickson, 18, 73 bis, 90 bis, 107, 307, 321, 342, 416, 417, 436. Pawlet, 379. Pawson, 439. Pearson, 273. Pelham, 410. Pennington, pedigree of, 228. Pennington, 86 bis, 93 bis, 96, 99, 104, 108, 110, 117, 118, 131 hs, 142, 143, 159, 160, 201, 210, 21-3, 21G, 217, 218 bis, 235 bis, 237, 238, 299, 376, 377, 437. Pennyman, 376. Penj'ston, 297. Percy, pedigree of, 41. Percy, 40. Philipson, 285. Pickering, 65, 86, 371. Pickthall, 166. Piele, 272. Pierce, 373. Pitrpoint, 29. Pinder, 295, 301, 303. Piper, 408. Plaskett, 273. Poole, 198. Ponsonbv, pedigree, 435. Ponsonby, 56, 198, 279 bis, 299, 319, .342, 410. Postletlnvaitc, 102, 166 bis, 441, 443 bis. Potter, 419. Powersconrt, 436. Powis, Countess of, 284. Powley, 424. Poynings, 43. Preston, 249, 254, 373 bis, 375, 447. Pricket, 375. Quale, 370. Ramsden, 233, 377. Raper, 85, 91, 437 ier. Rawson, 412. Redman, 197. Rcnnie, 397. Reynard the Fewer, 99. Richardson, 20. Richmond, 372, 418. Roberts, 47. Robertson, 53, 90. Robinson, 441. Homely, 150. Romley, 36. Romney, Earl of, 47. Roper, 437. Rottington, 409. Sabine, 199. Sackfield, 72. Salkeld, 90 ter, 157, 276, 418, 419, 425. Sandys, 73, 331, 358, 409, 410, 435. Sandes, 365, 410. Satterthwaite, 131. Scott, 29, 31, 100, 131, 263, 358. Scrope, 372. Senhousc, 86, 199, 2S3, 296, 297, 298 6is, 299 ter, 300 bis, 301, 321, 367. 417, 437. Serjeant, 186. Seton, 141. Sewell, 386, 409. Seymour, 45, 158. Shaw, 110, 129, 144,420. Sheffield, 18. Simpson, 269. Singleton, 107, 144, 181 bis. Skclton, 197, 217, 339, 355, 425, 438. Smith, 166, 449. Smithson, 46, 176. Somerset, Duke of, 29, 45, 46. Spedding, 80, 358, 392, -399, 400, 401, .102 6is,424. Spencer, 43. Stanley, pedigree of, 281. Stanley, 76, 94, 179 fcis, 218, 219, 237, 257, 262 bis, 278—293, 306, 358, 412, 414, 422, 423 /c /olima/. THE CARLISLE HISTORICAL TRACTS. Post 8fo. uniformly printed on laid writing paper. Of these Tracts very few complete sets now remain unsold. They will be followed, occasionally, by others of a similar nature, either from original MSS. or reprints of scarce and ctirious Tracts, connected with the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland ; the loan of wliich is respectfully requested. (See list on the next pane. Price 2s. A NARRATIVE OF THE SIEGE OF CARLISLE, in 1644 and 1045. Now first printed from a MS. in the British Museum. By Isaac Tlllie. To which are added, a Preface ; an Historical Account of Carlisle during the Civil War; aud Historical, Biographical, and Ex- planatory Notes. Dedicated, by permission, to Sir George Musgrave, Bart. " Anotherof Mr. Jefferson's valuable contributions to the history of the county of Cumb^rlaiiii aii(i its capital city An iuteresting whole as a picture of a Civil War siege "—Gent emari^sjlngazine, Sept. 18tl. " This very curious and authentic Narrative of one of the most extraordinary sieges that occurred duriug the great civil war." — H'hileharen Herald, Jan. 9, 1841. " By giving Mr. Tullie's Narrative of this important event to the world, Mr. Jefferson has laid the general reader, as well as the student of local history, under considerable obli- gations, which he has nut a little enhanced by the interesling Biographical, Historical, and explanatorv notes which he has appended to Mr. TuUie's entertaining narrative."— Cumberland P'acqaet, Jan. 26, 18*1. Price 2s. THE LIFE OF SIR PHILIP MUSGRAVE, BART., of Hartley Castle, CO. Westmorland, and of Edenhall, co. Cumberland, Govemoi of the City of Carlisle, &c. Now first published from an original MS. in the possession of the Family, by the Rev. Gilbert BuRTO^', Vicar of Edenhall, 1669—168.3. Dedicated, by permission, to Sir George Mus- grave, Bart. " When we say that his narrative is full of exact particulars of the occurrences in the north of England, particularly during the eventful period of the civil wir, and thatgreat reliance raav be placed on their authenticityand precision, it will be allowed that Mr. Jefferson has done good service in giving it to the world." — Gentleman^s Magazine, Oct., 1840. Price 2s. ; or, with a fins Portrait, 3s. A SERMON preached at the Funeral of The Right Hon. Annk, Countess of Pembroke, Dorset, and Moktgomeky, at Appleby, April 14, 1075; with some Remarks on the Life of that eminent Lady. By Edward Rainbow, Lord Bishop of Carlisle. To which are now added. Memoir* of the above celebrated Countess oy Pembroke and of Bishop Rainbow. Dedicated to the Right Hon. the Earl of Thanet. " A fair specimen of (he mode of composition usual in the seventeenth ceatnry." — British Critic, Jan. 1841 . " A very iuterestlng addition to our local literatnre."— Cariwte Patriot. The Gentlcnmn^s .Ma izine, (Sep. 1840.) after quoting from this publication, says, " The extracts now given will be sufficient to justify us in tendering the public thanks to Mr. Jefferson fur this interesting reprint. . . Though it is true that the pulpit com- positiutiS of the period were tedious and conceited, yet they abound in personal allusions and even anecdotes, and hence their historical value." •* We are always glad to see such repnuts."— Church of England Quarterly Review, March, 1840. Price 2s. THE HISTORY OF THE WORTHIES OF CUMBERLAND AND WESTMORLAND : by Thomas Fuller, D.D., Prebendary of Salisbury, author ol "The Church History of Britain," &c. Dedicated to Henry Howard, of Corby Castle, Esq. Price Is. KINMONT WILLIE: a Border Ballad. With an Historical In- troduction ; by Sir Walter Scott, Bart. Dedicated to his Grace the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensberry, K.T. Price Is. ( Reprinted from a very scarce and curious Tract,) THE TRIAL AND LIFE OF THOMAS CAPPOCH, the Rebel- Bishop of Carlisle, who was executed in that City, October 18, 1746. Price Is. THE TRIAL AND EXECUTION OF COLONEL TOWNLEY, Governor of the City of Carlisle, who was executed for High-Treason, July 30, 1746. Preparing for Publication, p THE LIFE AND MIRACLES OF SANCTA BEGA, the Pa-"^^ troncss of the priory of St. Bees. Written by a monkish historian. To which are added, Explanatory Notes and a Preface : by the Rev. G. C. TOMLINSON, F.S.A., &c. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 . 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