i;;«K£»<)<M<lcii>-K!SKi:9*«&<;bHi»^':j<^

 
 A WHALIXG CRUISE TO BAFFIN'S BAY 
 
 AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA. 
 
 '©^
 
 WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN'S BA^ 
 
 AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA. 
 
 AND AX ACCOUNT OF THE RESCUE OF THE 
 
 CREW OF THE '^POLARIS." 
 
 BY ALBERT HASTINGS MAEKnA:\I, F. R. G. S. 
 
 COMMANDER ROYAL NAVV. 
 
 WITH AX INTRODUCTION BV 
 REAR-AT):\nRAL SHERARD OSBORX. C. B.. F. R. S. 
 
 SECOXD EDITIOy. 
 
 LONDON: 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, AND SEARLK 
 
 CROWN BUILDINGS, FLEET STREET. 
 
 1875. 
 \_All rights reserved.l
 
 CHISWICK I'KESS : -I'KINTEU BV WHITTIN'GHAM AND WILKINS, 
 TOOKS COURT, CHANXERY LANE.
 
 PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 HE present season appears an appro- 
 priate time for presenting to the public 
 a second edition of my " Whaling 
 Cruise to Baffin's Bay." Those who 
 have always had the interests of Arctic research at 
 heart must indeed be gladdened at the recent deci- 
 sion of Mr. Disraeli's Government. The English 
 nation^ having had its energies aroused, and having 
 listened to the counsels of its eminent men of 
 science, and to the urgent entreaties of the sur- 
 viving Arctic explorers, has at last deemed it ex- 
 pedient to revive the subject of Polar exploration. 
 The flag of England, the glorious Union Jack, will 
 in a few short months be again unfurled within 
 the Arctic zone, and displayed, it is confidently 
 hoped and anticipated, in a high northern latitude, 
 if not at the North Pole itself. 
 
 Experience has done much for us, and with the
 
 vi Preface to Second Edition. 
 
 able assistance and a(l^^ce of such men as Admirals 
 Richards, McClintock, and Osboru, the Arctic Ex- 
 pedition of 1875 (in which I am proud to say I 
 have been one of the officers selected to take joart) , 
 under the command of that experienced and dis- 
 tinguished officer Captain George S. Nares, will be 
 dispatched with every regard for the comfort and 
 well-being of its members, and with every, even 
 the minutest, detail considered that is likely to 
 ensure its success and safe return. 
 
 The successes that have of late years been 
 achieved by the gallant explorers of other nations 
 in the ice-bound regions of the J^orth, have no 
 doubt materially hastened the present determina- 
 tion to equip and send forth an expedition on such 
 a scale as will defy competition or failure. 
 
 We regard Arctic exploration as work peculiarly 
 our own, the birthright of Englishmen, bequeathed 
 to us by a long list of Ai'ctic heroes, containing the 
 names of such men as Davis, Hudson, Baffin, the 
 Rosses, Parry, Franklin, and Back ; and we have to 
 thank those bold and daring foreigners who have 
 recently returned triumphant, after undergoing 
 unheard-of hardships and privations, for having 
 aroused within us a friendly feeling of rivalry, 
 enhanced by their successes, stirring up the ex- 
 pu'ing embers of our ambition, and rekindling the 
 flame of emulation which appeared to be -dying 
 out.
 
 Preface to Second Edition. vii 
 
 The annouucemeut that instructions had been 
 issued for the equipment of an Arctic Exploring' 
 Expedition was received in the Navy with un- 
 bounded delight and enthusiasm. There was no 
 want of volunteers from all classes. Numbers were 
 willing and eager for Arctic service, and grievous 
 indeed was the disappointment of those whose 
 applications were perforce rejected. We have 
 only to look back, and not very far, to those who 
 have served amidst the ice floes of the Arctic re- 
 gions, for proofs that such a service is unrivalled, 
 in these piping times of peace, as a school for the 
 training of good and able officers. Our great Nel- 
 son himself received his initiation into that service 
 in which he was destined to immortalize himself, as 
 a midshipman in one of the ships composing a 
 North Polar Expedition. 
 
 I have only to invite my readers to peruse the 
 Appendix at the end of this volume, the exhaustive 
 Memorandum compiled by the Arctic Committee of 
 the Royal Geographical Society, enumerating the 
 beneficial results that will accrue to science gene- 
 rally by the dispatch of an Arctic Exploring Expe- 
 dition, to show the important results to be derived 
 from such an enterprise. 
 
 The lucrative whaling trade owes its foundation 
 to Arctic voyages of discovery; and if a new field 
 should be discovered wherein the brave fellows who 
 were lately my shipmates would be able to pursue
 
 viii Preface to Second Edition. 
 
 with advantage their daring and hazardous trade, 
 the benefits arising from the contemplated voyage 
 will be still fm^ther increased. The profits of the 
 whale fishery during the last three or four years 
 have been unusually large and the casualties ex- 
 cessively small, results which are principally due to 
 the wonderful advantage gained b}^ the use of steam 
 power. It is true that dui-ing the past year two 
 whalers have fallen victims to the unyielding ice, 
 but in neither instance was there loss of life. The 
 ''Tay^^ was crushed by the ice floes in Mehnlle 
 Bay, and the dear old '^ Arctic " succumbed to the 
 irresistible pressure of the ice on the scene of her 
 exploits of 1873 ofi" Cape Garry. I have had the 
 pleasure, on more thaii one occasion, of meeting 
 my late jovial and kind-hearted captain since he 
 returned to this country, after the loss of his ship. 
 A new ^^ Arctic ^^' has been built for him. She is 
 without exception the finest whaler afloat. May 
 all success attend him in his new ship, and may he 
 speedily reap the reward of his indomitable pluck 
 and energy. 
 
 The remains of the poor old " Arctic '^ lie, at 
 any rate, in the neighbourhood of good company, 
 Not ten miles from where she was crushed are the 
 remains of H. M. S, " Fury,'^ wrecked in 1824; 
 further to the southward the veteran Sir John 
 Ross, in 1831, was compelled to abandon his little
 
 Preface to Secojid Edition. ix 
 
 craft the '' Victory ; " and not sixty miles to the 
 S.W. the ill-fated ships '' Erebus " and " Terror " 
 were abandoned in 1848, after the death of their 
 leader the gallant and noble-hearted Franklin. 
 
 In conclusion^ I venture to recall the words of 
 one to whom the palm of Arctic discovery has 
 unhesitatingly been accorded, and whose high 
 northern latitude, reached by him nearly fifty years 
 ago, has never been approached by known man. 
 I allude to the late Admiral Sir Edward Parry, 
 who, speaking of the N. W. passage, says : " May it 
 still fall to England's lot to accomplish this under- 
 taking, and may she ever continue to take the lead 
 in enterprises intended to contribute to the ad- 
 vancement of science, and to promote, with her 
 own, the welfare of mankind at large. Such enter- 
 prises, so disinterested as well as useful in their 
 object, do honour to the country which undertakes 
 them ; even when they fail, they cannot but excite 
 the admiration and respect of every liberal and 
 cultivated mind ; and the l^age of future history 
 will undoubtedly record them as in every way 
 worthy of a powerful, virtuous, and enlightened 
 nation.^' 
 
 I feel sure that these words will find a response 
 in the heart of every true Englishman ; and I trust 
 that my readers, in bidding " God speed '' to the 
 Arctic Expedition of 1875, will do so in the belief
 
 X Preface to Second Edition. 
 
 that no efforts will be wanting to make its results 
 contribute to the advancement of science, and do 
 credit to our country. 
 
 Albert H. Mabkham. 
 
 21, Ecclestou Square. 
 Fcb7viari/, 187- 
 
 ■;;4a.l/ 
 
 "Walrus Sliootiiiff.
 
 DEDICATION. 
 
 TO THE RIGHT HONOUEALLE 
 
 SIR H. BARTLE FREEE, G.C.S.L, K.C.B., D.C.L. 
 
 President of the lioyul Gcograpldcal Socicti/. 
 
 Dear Sir Bartle Frere, 
 
 HE permission to dedicate this narra- 
 tive of a whaling cruise to you^ as 
 President of our Society, is specially 
 gratifying to me, because it encourages 
 me to hope that you A\dll treat this efibrt to further 
 the great cause of Arctic exploration with indul- 
 gence, and that you will overlook the numerous 
 shortcomings of so inexperienced an author. My 
 intention ia to convey, to the utmost of my ability, 
 accurate information resjDecting the operations of 
 that fleet, commanded by daring and adventurous 
 seamen, which annually navigates the Arctic seas. 
 
 It is an auspicious circumstance that, in these 
 days, as in the days of old, a distinguished Indian
 
 xii Dedication. 
 
 administrator should be one of the leading advo- 
 cates of Arctic discovery. 
 
 Many of the names in the Arctic regions^ espe- 
 cially those at the head of Baffin's Bay, including 
 that of the strait which will eventually lead us to 
 the Pole, recall memories of the founders of our 
 Indian Empire. 
 
 Smith Sound is named after the first governor 
 of the East India Company ; Jones and Wolsten- 
 liolme Sounds and Cape Dudley Digges are called 
 after the most active promoters of Indian trade ; 
 and Lancaster Sound after that gallant seaman 
 who made the first voyage to India for the old 
 company. 
 
 Moreover, several of our predecessors in Arctic 
 exploration gave their lives for the service of the 
 East India Company. 
 
 John Da%as fell fighting for it in the Sea of 
 Japan, and that glorious old navigator Baffin was 
 killed whilst taking sights on an island in the Per- 
 sian Gulf. 
 
 Indian and Arctic navigators united very heartily 
 in the olden times, and the connection between 
 India and the far north at the present day is, if pos- 
 sible, even more intimate. For the skilful seamen 
 mth whom I was shipmate this summer, and the 
 ryots of Bengal, are engaged in two branches of 
 the same industry, the welfare of the one depending 
 very closely upon that of the other.
 
 Dedication. xiii 
 
 The jute manufactory^ wliich gives employment 
 to many thousands of industrious ryots^ is depen- 
 dent for its existence on the success of the whale 
 fishery, animal oil being* necessary for the prepa- 
 ration of the fibre. So that it is peculiarly appro- 
 priate that a statesman who has devoted his whole 
 life to the welfare of India should now be among 
 the foremost in advancing the cause of Arctic dis- 
 covery. 
 
 Eai'nestly trusting that the eftbrts of the Council 
 of our Society, under your Presidency, to secure 
 the despatch of an Arctic exploring expedition may 
 bear fruit, if not in 1874, at least in 1875, I remain, 
 with warmest wishes for your success, my dear Sir 
 Bartle, 
 
 Yours very sincerely, 
 
 Albert H. Markham. 
 
 II. i\I. S. " Sultan," 
 Lisbon, 
 
 Dccnmhrt\ ]h7;5.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 REFACE to Second Edition . . . v 
 
 Dedication ...... xi 
 
 Introdnction by Rear-Adnn'ral Sherard 
 Osbom, C.B., F.R.S. . . . xxv 
 
 Chapter I. — The Dundee Wiialees. 
 
 Subjects of tlie work, paa;e 2 ; jNIafstcr Beste's introdnction, 3 : 
 Progress of tlie Avliale fishery, 4 ; The cargo of a whaler, 
 5 ; List of Dundee whalers, 6 ; The " Arctic " whaler, 8 ; 
 Scale of pay, 11 ; Duties of the crew. 13 ; Kindness re- 
 ceived in Dundee, 14. 
 
 Chaptee II. — " Spanning on." 
 
 Our departure, 17; Mustering the crew, IS; "Dulse," 19; 
 My messmates, 20; Home sickness, 21 ; " Store day," 21 ; 
 Dirty Aveather, 22 ; Blowing a gale, 23 ; Cape Farewell, 
 24 ; Equipping the boats, 25 ; Directions fur Avhaling. 30 ; 
 Collisions with the ice, 31 ; Killing a seal, 32 ; The crow's 
 nest, 33 ; Bottle-nosed whales, 35.
 
 xvi Contents. 
 
 CirAPTEi; III. — The South-west Fisiiixg. 
 
 Edge of the pack ice, 36 ; Sighting the whales, 37 ; A fruit- 
 less attempt, 38 ; AVe strike a whale, 39 ; Excitement on 
 board, 40; Pursuing the fisli, 41 ; Cheerful anticipations, 
 42; Disappointment, 43; .Superstitions of the ci'ew, 44; A 
 fish captured, 45 ; We sight icebergs, 45 ; Attempt to take 
 soundings, 45 ; Effects caused by refraction, 47. 
 
 ClIArTER IV. — "FLINCniXG" ANB " Making-off." 
 
 Capture of a wliale, 49 ; Preparations for bringing alongside, 
 51; The operation of flinching, 53 ; The whalebone, 54 ; 
 Good effect of the capture, 55 ; Capture of a bear, 56 ; 
 " Making-off," 57; Fuhuar petrels, 61; Surrounded by 
 ice, 62. 
 
 Chaiter V. — jSTavigation of Davis' Straits. 
 
 Icebergs, 63 ; Sir INIartin Frobisher's third voyage, 65 ; Dan- 
 gerous navigation, 67 ; Heavy snow showers, 69 ; Remark- 
 able iceberg, 70 ; The captain s " lucky penny," 71 ; The 
 midnight sun, 71 : Dangerous ice floes, 73 ; Huge icebergs, 
 73 ; Perils of Arctic navigation, 74 ; Crossing the Arctic 
 Circle, 77 ; Letters from England, 78. 
 
 Chapter VI. — Disco. 
 
 Disco, 79 ; Visit to the Inspector, 81 ; An Esquimaux dance, 
 82 ; The settlement of Lievely, 83 ; Native dwelling- 
 places, 85 ; Esquimaux men, 86 ; Women, 86 ; Traditions, 
 87 ; An excursion inland, 89 ; A perilous descent, 91 ; 
 More mishaps, 92 : Departure from Lievely, 93.
 
 Contents. xvii 
 
 Chaptek VII. — Upeenivik and Melville Bat. 
 
 Omonak, 94 ; Arrival at Upeniivik, 95 ; Tlie blacksmith, 96 ; 
 Xative clogs, 97 ; Ice ancliors, 98 ; Departure from Uper- 
 nivik, 99 ; Icebergs, 100 ; Approach to MelviUe Bay, 100 ; 
 Difficulties of navigation, 101 ; Dangers of MelviUe Bay, 
 102 ; Fatalities to whalers, 103 ; Variations in the seasons, 
 104 ; The North "Water, 105 ; Periods of detention, 105 ; 
 A " strong ale wind," 107 ; A " mollie," 108 ; Position of the 
 ship, 109 ; Boiing through the ice, 109 ; On the look-out 
 for a " lead," 111 ; Little aixks, 112. 
 
 Chapter VIII. — The jSToeth Water. 
 
 In the North Water, 113 ; A good year for discovery, 115; 
 Thick clusters of rotges, 116; Whales in August, 117; 
 Foul weather, 118 ; On the fishing ground, 119 ; A "mol- 
 Ke" on board, 119; Best route to the North Pole, 120; 
 View of the shore, 121; Attempt to release ourselves, 122 ; 
 Beset in the ice, 123. 
 
 Chapter IX. — Middle Ice Fishing. 
 
 A capture, 126 ; Despatch of our prey, 127 ; Hoistiug the 
 carcase on board, 128; A cool bath, 129; Wounding a 
 wali-us, 130 ; " Making-ofF" the blubber, 131 ; Chase after 
 narwhals, 132; A valuable prize, 133; Narwhals, 134; 
 Attempt to surprise a seal, 135 ; A Avhale heard, 136 ; 
 Fatiguing chase, 137; A fortunate prize, 138 ; Voracity of 
 the "mollies," 139. 
 
 Chapter X. — More Whales at the Middle Ice. 
 
 The " Erik " Aisited by Esquimaux, 140 ; News of the 
 "Polaris," 141 ; A young bear shot, 142; Attempts to get 
 up Lancaster Sound, 143 ; Another successful day, 144 ; 
 
 b
 
 XVlll 
 
 Contents. 
 
 The whaling fleet beset, 145 ; A tUsappoiutment, 146 ; 
 State of the ship, 147 ; Another " fall " called, 148 ; Kill- 
 ing a whale, 149 ; Monotony of whale fishing, 150. 
 
 Chapter XI. — Lancaster Sound and Bakrow Strait. 
 
 Esquimaux seen, 152 ; Off Navy Board Inlet, 152 ; Arctic 
 birds, 152; White whales, 154; Another "fish," 155; A 
 narrow escape, 156 ; Off Port Leopold, 156 ; Rough 
 weather, 158 ; A j^leasant change, 158 ; Sour grapes, 159 ; 
 I am appointed boat-steerer, 160 ; Awkward predicament, 
 161 ; Towed by a whale, 162 ; In Barrow Strait, 163 ; A 
 whale run down, 164; A tale from Frobisher, 164; Dirt 
 of the ship, 165 ; Dangerous position of the " Narwhal," 
 167. 
 
 Chapter XII. — Port Leopold. 
 
 Cape Seppings, 169; Port Leopold, 170; Sir James Ross's 
 expedition, 170 ; Kennedy's expedition, 170 ; McClintock, 
 170 ; Records, 171 ; The graves at Port Leopold, 173 ; 
 Good sport, 175 ; Poetry by Sir John Ross, 176 ; View of 
 Beechey Island, 176 ; Sir James Ross's house, 177 ; State 
 of the provisions, 177; My first fast fish, 179; Towing a 
 dead whale, 180 ; Condition of ship and boats, 181 ; Volun- 
 teers for an Arctic expedition, 181. 
 
 Chapter XIII. — The "Polams" Expedition. 
 
 Meet the " Ravenscraig," 183; Crew of the "Polaris," 184; 
 Boats' crews received on board the " Ravenscraig," 185 ; 
 Half the crew received in the "Arctic," 186; Captain 
 Hall, 187; The other oflicers, 187; Dr. Bessels, 187; Re- 
 markable run of the "Polaris," 188; Ice at the farthest 
 northern point, 189 ; Discoveries, 190 ; Tidal observations, 
 191 ; Inhabitants of the far north, 191 ; Drift of the ice.
 
 Contents. 
 
 XIX 
 
 193; Winter quarters, 193; Death of Hall, 193; Arctic 
 animals, 194 ; Plants and fossils, 195 ; Separation of the 
 boats, 196 ; Second winter, 197 ; Resources of Dr. Bessels, 
 198 ; His opinions, 199. 
 
 Chapter XIV. — Again in Bajfin's Bay. 
 
 " Fish " seen, 201 ; Hazardous position on the ice, 202 ; 
 Shooting a bear, 203 ; Rain, 204 ; Deep-sea soundings, 
 205 ; Foggy Aveather, 205 ; A beautiful day, 206 ; And 
 night, 208 ; Inactivity, 209. 
 
 Chapter XV. — Admiralty Inlet. 
 
 Volunteers for an Arctic expedition, 210 ; Inaccuracy of 
 charts, 211 ; The Bartle Frerc glaciers, 211 ; Esquimaux, 
 213 ; Pond's Bay natives, 213 ; A hasty departure, 215 ; 
 Capturing narwhals, 215; Fishing along the floe, 216; 
 Land about Elwyn Inlet, 217 ; Taking in water, 218 ; Ad- 
 miralty Inlet, 218 ; Foggy weather, 219. 
 
 CnAPTER XVI. — Prince Regent's Inlet. 
 
 Off Cape Craufurd again, 220; Inaccurate coast line, 220; A 
 day of adventure, 221 ; Knocked overboard by a whale, 
 224 ; We revenge ourselves, 224 ; Off Port Bowen, 226 ; 
 Captain's idea of returning by Hudson's Bay, 226 ; Pass 
 Fury Beach, 228 ; Unsuccessful chase, 229. 
 
 Chapter XVII. — Fury Beacu. 
 
 Land at Fury Beach, 231 ; Parry's third voyage, 232 ; Aban- 
 donment of the " Fury," 233 ; The Rosses at Fury Beach, 
 233 ; Lieutenant Robinson and ISIi-. Kennedy at Fury 
 Beach, 235 ; Allen Young at Fury Beach, 236 ; State of 
 boats, 237 ; Description of the " Fury's " stores and gear, 
 237 ; Examining a grave, 239 ; Interesting relics, 239 ; 
 Sailors' curious fancies, 240.
 
 XX 
 
 Contents. 
 
 Chaptek XVIII. — Cape Garry. 
 A large bear, 242 ; Precarious position, 244 ; Position of 
 Cape Garry, 245 ; Soundings, 245 ; Sword-fish, 246 ; An 
 inilucky day, 248 ; Succeed in killing a fish, 249 ; Success- 
 ful expedition beyond Cape Garry, 249 ; Remains of Es- 
 quimaux village, 250 ; Walk into the interior, 251 ; Rein- 
 deer, 252 ; Conveying our game to the boat, 253 ; Return 
 on board, 254. 
 
 Chapter XIX. — HoiiEWARB Bound. 
 
 A full ship, 255 ; Homeward bound, 256 ; Decision of the 
 crew, 257 ; A monstrous bear, 258 ; Another bear, 260 ; 
 Signs of rough weather, 260 ; A gale, 261 ; Brighter pro- 
 spects, 261 ; Prospects of an open season, 262 ; Chase after 
 a bear, 264 ; Grounded icebergs, 265 ; Communicate with 
 the " Victor," 265 ; A brilliant parhelion, 266. 
 
 Chapter XX. — Conclusion. 
 
 Abreast of Home Bay, 268 ; Annoying detentions, 269 ; 
 Dreary prospects, 270 ; Slow progress, 271 ; Get into the 
 East Water, 272 ; Prepared to cross the Atlantic, 273 ; 
 Fairly on our way home, 273 ; Painting the ship, 275 ; 
 Peutland Firth, 276 ; Off Peterhead, 276 ; Valedictory, 
 277 ; Conclusion, 278. 
 
 Appendix A. 
 Approximate value and size of whales captured during the 
 
 voyage of the " Ai-ctic " iu 1873, 279. 
 Xote on the boiling down of the blubber, 280. 
 
 Appendix B. 
 Arctic plants collected by Captain A. H. Markham, R.X., 
 
 281. 
 Xote by Dr. J. D. Hooker, C.B., President of the Royal 
 
 Society, 282.
 
 Contents. 
 
 Appendix C. 
 
 List of geological specimens collected by Captain A. II. 
 Markliam, R.N., and examined by R. Etheridge, Escj., 
 Museum of Practical Geology, 283. 
 
 Appendix D. 
 
 List of birds shot, 285. 
 
 Appendix E. 
 
 ^Memorandum for the Arctic Committee of the Royal Society 
 (June, 1873), on the Scientific Results of an Arctic Expe- 
 dition, 286. 
 
 Whale (Balcena Mysticetus).
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 
 
 Separate Engravings on Wood. 
 
 HE " Arctic " among ice . Frontispiece 
 
 The " Arctic," with boats fast to a fish 
 
 To face page 
 Danish settlement of Lievely (Disco) 
 Upernivik 
 
 Port Leopold 
 
 The " Bartle Frere " glacier 
 Adventure with a whale . 
 Adventure with a bear 
 
 50 
 80 
 94 
 168 
 212 
 224 
 242 
 
 Engravings in the Text. 
 
 Page 
 
 Scott Cliffs — a favourite fishing-ground . . .15 
 
 Hand and gun harpoons ...... 26 
 
 Harpoon gun ........ 27 
 
 " Mik " 27 
 
 Flinching knife, six-foot lance, and swivel harpoon . 34 
 
 Seals on the ice ....... 35 
 
 Iceberg . . . . . . . « . 46 
 
 Eglinton Inlet — a favourite resort of the whalers in 
 
 Davis' Straits 48 
 
 Whale (^Balcena mysticctufi) ..... 50 
 
 Blubber spade ....... 53 
 
 Pick-haak ........ 54
 
 XXIV 
 
 List of Illustrations. 
 
 Twisted liarpoous 
 
 Clash and clasli-hooks 
 
 Fulmar petrels, or " mollies " 
 
 Iceberg .... 
 
 Iceberg .... 
 
 Cape Warrender 
 
 Esquimaux dog 
 
 Little auks 
 
 Bear sleeping . 
 
 Narwhal and bear . 
 
 Wah-uses 
 
 Dalrymple Island . 
 
 Walrus shooting 
 
 Looms .... 
 
 Long-tailed ducks . 
 
 Meeting of " Arctic " and " Ravenscraig " off Cape 
 
 Craufurd 
 
 " Ravensci'aig " off Cape York, and boat of " Polaris " 
 American discovery ship " Polaris " 
 Pond's Bay 
 Esquimavix dogs 
 Prince Regent's Inlet — the " Arctic " fishing at the edge 
 
 of the floe 
 Iceberg . 
 Kmg ducks 
 Deer's head . 
 Cape Hay 
 
 Bear and white whale 
 Arctic fox 
 " Mollies'" 
 
 Map. 
 
 Illustrating Captain A. H. Markham's voyage m the " Arctic," 
 1873. Compiled by E. G. Ravenstein . At end.
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 HE following narrative, by Commander 
 Albert H. Markham, of a whaling- voy- 
 age in the Arctic regions in the Dundee 
 steam whaler " Arctic/' will, I feel 
 sure, be read with much interest by all who relish 
 an unadorned tale of adventure/ and awaken sur- 
 prise amongst the large section of the British 
 community who take note of progress in Arctic 
 exploration. The voyage of the ^' Ai'ctic/' apart 
 from the boldness and skill with which her dashing 
 captain, William Adams, pursued his mighty and 
 valuable prey through ice, storm, and dangers, 
 proves in a remarkable manner how much the in- 
 troduction of steam power in whaling ships has 
 
 ^ Captain Markham was appointed to H. M. S. " Sultan " 
 before he bad been three weeks in Enghmd, after his return 
 from the Arctic regions ; and his journal lias been printed, in 
 his absence, almost exactly as it was written from day to day, 
 when the incidents it records were fresh iu his mind.
 
 XXVI 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 reduced tlio risk formerly incident to navigation in 
 Baffin^ s Bay and Barrow Straits. 
 
 We have the " Arctic " committing lierself volun- 
 tarily to be beset in Davis^ Straits until there were 
 some fifty miles of heavy pack between her and 
 open water ; and then, when no more whales were 
 to be found, gallantly fighting her way by steam 
 power through the interlaced ice-fields until the 
 clear sea was again reached. We find that middle 
 ice, which for half a century has been the bugbear 
 of the whale fisher, when tackled by a vessel of 600 
 tons and 70-horse power engines, no longer spoken 
 of as an impenetrable barrier. The whaler under 
 sail thought himself fortunate in traversing it once 
 in every three years, with a vast expenditure of 
 labour, in from a month to sixty days. The "Arc- 
 tic " and her sister vessels have now for nine years 
 consecutively got through this middle ice under 
 steam in as many hours. We see the " Arctic,'' 
 in quest of her prey, passing point after point, 
 during a summer cruise, which for fifty years had 
 been the extremes reached by discovery expedi- 
 tions. Steam power has robbed the navigation of 
 those regions of nearly all its difficulties and much 
 of its risk. The " Arctic," with her keen hunters 
 of the whale, dashes boldly past John Ross's far- 
 thest in 1818 ; Sir Edward Parry's farthest, in 
 Prince Regent's Inlet, in 1825 ; Franklin's winter 
 quarters at Beechey Island are reached ; Sir James
 
 Introduction. xxvii 
 
 Eoss^s farthest; at Leopold Island, in 1848, visited ; 
 and many another bay and headland in those re- 
 mote regions, which have taken seamen in sailing 
 vessels years of toil and hardship to attain, were 
 seen and visited by Commander Markham in a 
 summer's holiday. It was no exceptional season 
 in which this was done. The " Arctic,^' under 
 Captain Adams, has often made the same cruise, to 
 the profit of her owners and crew, and returns 
 again in 1874 to repeat the voyage. 
 
 ^^Tien, in 1850, during the search for Franklin, 
 I had the good fortune to command the " Pioneer/' 
 which, with the " Intrepid," were the two first 
 steam vessels employed in the Arctic seas, I fore- 
 saw and foretold the great revolution which steam 
 was about to effect in diminishing the risk of 
 Arctic navigation. It was impossible for us, 
 shackled as we were to our clumsy sailing con- 
 sorts (H. M. S. ''Resolute" and ''Assistance''), 
 to do much in illustration of my belief; but tho 
 revolution has come even quicker than anticipated, 
 and from the shores of Great Britain, as well as 
 from those of the dominion of Canada, strongly 
 fortified steamers dash annually into the frozen seas 
 in search of the seal and the whale, and reap rich 
 and profitable harvests, without any risk of life, 
 and rarely with the loss of a steamer. Steam 
 yachts are now following in their wake, and Spitz- 
 bergen is becoming the summer field of many of
 
 XXVlll 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 our boldest sportsmen; and a trip to the Polar 
 regions is thought as little of to-day as a hunting 
 excursion to Norway, or a visit to Iceland, waa a 
 few years ago. 
 
 Apart from all these facts, which a perusal of 
 Commander Markham's narrative will bring vividly 
 home to the reader, there will be found a synopsis 
 of the remarkable voyage made by the United 
 States discovery vessel '' Polaris,'' under the late 
 Captain Hall, up Smith's Sound, at the head of 
 Baffin's Bay. This information he was able to 
 procure from the officers of that ship, who were 
 picked up and brought home from her wreck by 
 our whalers during the past summer. It will be 
 remembered, that when England had completed her 
 part in solving the fate of the Franklin expedition 
 — a search which culminated in the voyage of the 
 " Fox," and in Sir Eobert McClure's great achieve- 
 ment in passing from the Pacific to the Atlantic, 
 which laid open the entire geography of the regions 
 between those two oceans — Arctic discovery was 
 for a while allowed to rest. 
 
 But it was not so with our brethren in the 
 United States. They, fired by the achievements of 
 British explorers, and anxious to secure to their 
 countrymen the honour of being equally bold and 
 enduring, sent forth expedition after expedition 
 under Kane, Hayes, and, lastly. Captain Hall, in 
 the " Polaris," with a view to penetrate the great
 
 LitroductioJi. 
 
 XXLX 
 
 unknown area around the Polo by way of Smith's 
 Sound. Of tlicse expeditions tho most remark- 
 able was the last. In 1871, Captain Hall entered 
 Baffin's Bay in the month of August in the " Polaris/' 
 a small, weak-powered steamer, by no means well 
 fitted for the work, with a scratch crow composed 
 of eight Germans, nine Esquimaux, thirteen Ame- 
 ricans, ono Englishman, one Irishman, and one 
 Scotchman. From Cape Shackleton, where the ice 
 is usually met with, in lat. 73° 30' IST., tho " Polaris " 
 sailed and steamed without interruption to 82° 16' 
 N., a distance of 526 miles, and was then only 
 stopped by loose ice. The crew of the " Polaris," 
 when subsequently witnessing the way in which 
 the " Arctic " steamed through similar ice, acknow- 
 ledged that a properly equipped steamer could 
 have passed through tho barrier which stopped 
 their little vessel. 
 
 Those on board tho " Polaris " saw the strait 
 extending before them, with much open water and 
 land to the north and west, which they believed lay 
 in latitude 84° N., or within 300 miles of the Pole 
 of our earth. Wintering near their furthest point, 
 they found abundance of animal life, saw much 
 drift-wood of recent date, which must have come 
 there across the Polar Sea from the shores of 
 Siberia; and they found a tide coming from the 
 same direction, and report that the temperature 
 during tho winter was considerably milder than
 
 xsx Introduction. 
 
 bad been experienced by American and English 
 expeditions which had had, on former occasions, 
 to winter in more southern latitudes. After the 
 death of Captain Hall, the men in this expedition 
 only thought of returning home, and were making 
 fair jjrogress in that direction, when by an accident 
 in the autumn of 1872, a number of the crew were 
 swept away from the ship on an ice-field, which 
 eventually carried them down to the shores of 
 Labrador. They were saved by one of our sealers. 
 The remainder of the crew ran the ship on shore 
 at an Esquimaux settlement near the entrance of 
 Smithes Sound, abandoned her in the spring of 
 1873, with the intention of retreating in their boats 
 to the Danish settlements in Greenland, but were 
 picked up on their way by an English whaler and 
 so brought home. 
 
 We have therefore, from their information, cer- 
 tain proof of the navigability for steamers of Smithes 
 Sound, of the facility with which a retreat can be 
 eflfected without loss of life, of considerable re- 
 sources existing there in animal life, of land lying 
 close to the Pole, and, from the tide and driftwood, 
 of a water communication across that great un- 
 known area. 
 
 In an appendix attached to this volume wiU be 
 found an elaborate report, to which nearly every 
 scientific body in this country has given its adhe- 
 sion, on the great advantages to science which an
 
 Introduction. 
 
 XXXI 
 
 exploration of the Polar area would render ; and 
 the information brought homo by Commander 
 Markham proves how right the Royal Geogra- 
 phical Society has been in recommending Smithes 
 Sound as the route on which a Polar expedition 
 should be sent, and shows at the same time how 
 large a measure of success may be anticipated, 
 as well as the comparative immunity from risk of 
 life. 
 
 Never was a fairer field open to English seamen 
 and adventurers to reap high renown and to^Jceep 
 our country in the vanguard of geographical dis- 
 covery ; and I cannot believe that that spirit which 
 was awakened under the great Elizabeth can have 
 passed away in the reign of Queen Victoria ; but 
 fervently trust, if our Government shrinks from its 
 undoubted duty, that private individuals will secure 
 to us the glory of being the first nation to have 
 traversed the Polar Sea, as we have been foremost 
 in all that is great and glorious in so many other 
 parts of the earth. 
 
 Shekard Osboen, 
 
 Bear Admiral. 
 London, December, 1873.
 
 Chapter I. 
 
 THE DUNDEE WHALERS. 
 
 HE Arctic Regions liave always been 
 associated in my mind with that mys- 
 terious and indescribable longing which 
 is usually connected with all things 
 difficult of attainment, and therefore most desired 
 and sought after. 
 
 Here perilous and exciting adventures await those 
 daring spirits who may devote their lives to the 
 acquisition of knowledge. 
 
 Hither our brave whale-fishers have annually 
 ventured for many years in search of that huge and 
 valuable cetacean, the capture of which is at once 
 so hazardous and so profitable. 
 
 In short, the Arctic Regions teem with every- 
 thing that renders travel exciting, and offer charms 
 
 B
 
 2 Journal. 
 
 to tlio lovers of adventure sucli as are rarely met 
 with in any other part of the globe. 
 
 It was with no small amount of pleasure that I 
 hastened to avail myself of an opportunity which 
 presented itself of proceeding in a whaler to the 
 Arctic Regions for the purpose of gaining experi- 
 ence in Arctic navigation, of witnessing the methods 
 of handling steam- vessels in the ice, and of collect- 
 ing information respecting the state of the ice in 
 the upper part of Baffin^s Bay ; which might prove 
 useful should an exploring expedition be hereafter 
 despatched from this country to the unknown 
 regions of the North. 
 
 While engaged on this interesting service I kept 
 a journal, noting each event as it occurred, not 
 trusting to or putting any faith in memory, but jot- 
 ting down any incident the moment I could find an 
 opportunity. 
 
 I am now anxious to convey to those who are 
 interested in the subject as clear an idea as I am 
 able of the work on board a whaler, and of the 
 perils and vicissitudes of a whale-fisher's life ; and 
 it seems to me that the best way of attaining this 
 object will be to reproduce my journal as it at pre- 
 sent stands, to which will be added some further 
 particulars respecting the modern whale fishery, 
 and an account of the rescue of the survivors of the 
 ill-fated American exploring ship, " Polaris." Al- 
 though Scoresby, half a century ago, gave very full
 
 Progress of the Whale Fishery. .'5 
 
 details respecting the whale fishery in the Spitz- 
 bergen seas, there have been many changes sincc! 
 his daysj caused by the invention of new appliances 
 and the introduction of steam. The story of the 
 northern fishery, as it is now practised, has not 
 hitherto been told in any detail. 
 
 In introducing this narrative to my readers, 1 
 cannot do better than quote the words of Master 
 George Beste,^ the biographer of " Martin Fro- 
 bisher's Three Voyages for the Discoverie of find- 
 ing a Passage to Cathaya by the North West," who, 
 in his dedicatory epistle to Sir Christopher Hatton, 
 apologetically remarks that his "intente is, more to 
 sette out simply the true and plaine proceeding and 
 handling of the whole matter, than to use circum- 
 stance of mere words, or fyne eloquent phrases 
 wherein if I should once goe about to entangle my- 
 sclfe, it would doe nothing- else but bewray my owne 
 ignorance, and lack of schole skyll. Therefore, of 
 me there is nothing else to be looked for, but sucli 
 playne talke and writing as souldiers and marriners 
 doe use in thcyr dayly meetings and voyages, and 
 this of necessity must anyo man use that will deale 
 with such a matter as thys is, although he were 
 curious to the contrairie." 
 
 Before proceeding with my narrative, it may be 
 
 ^ ^lastci' George Beste was the lieutenant of Sii' Alartin 
 Frobislier's sliip.
 
 4 Progress of the Whale Fishery. 
 
 interesting to dwell briefly on the progress of the 
 wliale fishery, which, in Great Britain alone, has 
 been prosecuted for more than 250 years. 
 
 Until the commencement of the present century 
 this lucrative trade was entirely confined (I here 
 refer solely to the capture of the mysticetus) to the 
 waters around Spitzbergen, which are commonly 
 called the Greenland fishery. At the present time, 
 with only one exception,^ the vessels engaged in 
 the Davis' Straits and Baffin's Bay fisheries are 
 from the port of Dundee, which place, during the 
 last eighty years, with fluctuating success, has car- 
 ried on this important branch of commercial enter- 
 prise. 
 
 During what may be considered the infancy of 
 the whale fishery, various Acts of Parliament were 
 passed by the Legislature for the encouragement 
 of the trade, and further support was given by the 
 Government, which oflFered a bounty of as much as 
 thirty shillings per ton on the burden of each ship 
 employed in the fishery. At the early part of this 
 century, and during the time those talented and emi- 
 nently successful whale fishers, the two Scoresbys, 
 were employed in the trade, there were no less than 
 one hundred vessels fitted out and despatched from 
 difierent ports in England, of which Hull, London, 
 and Whitby were the principal, and more than 
 
 ^ This year a Xorwegian steamer was np Baffin's Bay.
 
 Tlte Cargo of a Whaler. 5 
 
 half that number from ports in Scotland^ of which 
 Aberdeen, Leith, Dundee, and Peterhead may be 
 mentioned as the chief. In those days a cargo of 
 forty or fifty tons of oil would amply compensate 
 for the expenses of the voyage, and ninety or one 
 hundred tons would be regarded as a most profit- 
 able and remunerative cargo. At the present time, 
 in consequence of the enormous expenses incidental 
 to steam- ships (all vessels employed in this trade 
 have now the advantages of steam-power), the price 
 of coal, and the enhanced value of all commodities, 
 unless a ship returns with a cargo of at least 
 seventy or eighty tons, her captain meets with any- 
 thing but a warm and hearty reception from his 
 employers. The trade at the present time, at least 
 as far as regai'ds Great Britain, appears to be en- 
 tirely monopolized by Scotland, no port in England 
 contributing a single ship for the prosecution of the 
 whale fishery, and Dundee and Peterhead being 
 the only two ports in Scotland. 
 
 No less than ten fine and powerful steam whalers 
 leave Dundee annually for the fishery in Davis' 
 Straits, all commanded by experienced and intel- 
 ligent men. (See next page.) 
 
 They usually proceed to sea about the beginning 
 of May, and after passing Cape Farewell, a fort- 
 night or three weeks is devoted to what is called 
 the south-west fishing, in the neighbourhood of 
 Frobisher's Straits to the northward of the coast of
 
 G List of the Dundee Whaling Fleet. 
 
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 Departure and Return of Whaling Fleet. 7 
 
 Labrador. Afterwards the wlialers proceed up the 
 east side of Davis' Straits and 13afHn's Bay, to Mel- 
 ville Bay, that dreaded and in many instances fatal 
 locality. If saccessful in making a passage through 
 this hazardous bay, the ship emerges into the north 
 water, when her course is altered to the westward 
 as much as the state of the ice will admit, until she 
 arrives on her fishing-ground at the entrance ol' 
 Lancaster Sound or off Pond's Inlet. Here the 
 fishing is prosecuted with energy until July, whcH 
 the whales are sought for up Lancaster Sound as 
 far as Prince Regent Inlet. The whales, whose 
 habits are most migratory, are then followed, dur- 
 ing the months of August and September, as far 
 south as Home Bay, and even as far as the Gulf of 
 Cumberland, when the approach of winter warns 
 the captain of the danger of remaining too long 
 in those stciile and inhospitable regions of snow and 
 ice. The return of the whaling fleet may be looked 
 for about the beginning of November, Occasion- 
 ally ships may arrive at an earlier date, as in the 
 case of the '^ Arctic," which in 1871,'in consequence 
 of unparalleled success, returned to Dundee during 
 the middle of August, and in 1873 was home by 
 the middle of September. These are, however, 
 rare and exceptional occasions. As a general rule, 
 they seldom return until five or six months after 
 their departure. 
 
 The ships engaged in the whale fishery are all
 
 8 The " Arctic " Wialer. 
 
 most substantially built, doubled and fortified by 
 the application of timber and iron both inside and 
 out. On each side of the stem are angle irons, or 
 plates of iron so placed as to protect the forefoot 
 from injury when coming into contact with heavy 
 floes, and also enabling the ship more readily to cut 
 or break through any ice of a penetrable nature. 
 The whalers are generally ship-rigged, which I 
 consider to be a great mistake,^ a barque being far 
 more handy, and they vary from three to four 
 hundred and fifty tons burden. The " Arctic " ^ 
 is a vessel of 439 tons, having a 70-horse power 
 engine. She is the property of that eminent ship- 
 builder, Mr. Stephen, of Dundee. 
 
 lu consequence of the reputation which the com- 
 mander of the " Arctic '^ had acquired for dash and 
 enterprise, I selected her as the ship in which I was 
 to behold the grandeur of Arctic scenery, the deep 
 fiords of Greenland, the enormous glaciers stretching 
 for miles into the interior, the majestic icebergs, 
 sailing" along in every fantastic shape and form, and 
 all those numerous sights only to be met in the 
 frozen regions of the North. 
 
 Having arranged terms with her wealthy and 
 
 ^ As soon as the whalers arrive on their fishing-ground the 
 inizen topsaU is invai'iably unbent and stowed away. 
 
 ^ Since this was written news has been received of the 
 total loss of the " Arctic " in Prince Resrent Inlet.
 
 The " Arctic " Whaler. 9 
 
 prosperous owners, I found myself on tlio 2ncl of 
 May, 187o, installed on board, having signed articles 
 as second mate to the effect that I engaged myself 
 " to serve on board the good ship ' Arctic ' on a 
 voyage from Dundee to Greenland or Davis' Straits, 
 and seas adjacent, for whale and for other fishing, 
 and back to Dundee ; " and, further, that I agreed 
 to " conduct myself in an orderly, faithful, honest, 
 and sober manner, and to be at all times diligent in 
 my respective duties, and to be obedient to the 
 lawful commands of my said master.'' The daily 
 allowance which I should receive of butter, cheese, 
 oatmeal, bread, beef, pork, flour, tea, sugar, lemon- 
 juice, water, and other stores, were previously read 
 to myself and the whole crew at the shipping 
 office. jMy wages were to be one shilling per month, 
 and I was to receive in addition the sum of one 
 penny for every ton of oil brought homo in the 
 ship, and one farthing for every ton of whalebone. 
 The reason that I was appointed to such a respon- 
 sible and lucrative situation was, that as the whalers 
 have no licence to carry passengers, anyone wishing 
 to travel in a whaler is compelled to sign articles as 
 one of the crew. That ceremony completed, he is 
 free to do as he will, and to enjoy himself according 
 to his own fancy and inclination. 
 
 Our captain is a kind, jovial, good-tempered 
 man ; and these qualities, added to his daring en- 
 terprise and great success during the time he has
 
 10 The ''Arctic'' Whaler. 
 
 commanded the ''Arctic^' at the seal and whale 
 fisheries, render him deservedly popular with all 
 ranks and classes, and enable him to enlist a good 
 crew, with efficient and experienced officers. 
 
 Our ship's company are a fine sturdy set of fel- 
 lows, evidently intending woi'k if they get the op- 
 portunity. A fourth part comes from the Shetland 
 Isles, one man is English, one a Norwegian, and 
 the remainder are Scotchmen, principally High- 
 landers. One of the Shetland men is both deaf 
 and dumb, but is most willing, and is a fair sailor. 
 He rejoices in the appellation of " Dummy." 
 
 Ships employed in the whale fishery have a com- 
 plement of men according to the number of boats 
 with which each ship is provided, so that when 
 actually engaged in the capture of the huge monsters 
 of the deep, all boats may be despatched fully 
 manned, leaving two or three hands on board for 
 the purpose of working the ship. Our complement 
 in the '^ Arctic," including- the captain and myself, 
 was fifty-five souls. 
 
 In order that all the men on board may take an 
 interest in and use their utmost exertions for the 
 furtherance of a successful issue to the voyage, each 
 individual, according to his position in the ship, is 
 paid a per-centage upon the amount of cargo brought 
 home, their regular wages being small. This will 
 account for the ease with which a successful whaling 
 master is able to man his ship. The statement on
 
 Scale of Pay. 
 
 11 
 
 Rating. 
 
 :Iso. in 
 1 each 
 jrttting. 
 
 Monthly 
 piiy. 
 
 Oil-money 
 pur tun. 
 
 I3onc-inoney 
 per ton. 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 £ 
 
 .V. 
 
 d. 
 
 Master 
 Mate' 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 8 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 up t 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 100 tons 
 
 
 
 after. 
 7 3 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 6 
 
 Second mate ^ . 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 Doctor 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Speksioneer ^ 
 Engineer . 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 7 
 
 9 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 10 
 
 6 
 6 
 
 Second engineer and 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 black snii til 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Carpenter. 
 Carpenter's mate 
 Hai'poonecrs 
 Loose liarpooneers 
 Cooper^ . 
 Ship-keeper 
 BoatsAvain '^ 
 
 1 
 1 
 2 
 2 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 3 
 2 
 2 
 3 
 3 
 2 
 3 
 
 10 
 15 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 2 
 
 6 
 3 
 6 
 6 
 2 
 
 6 
 6 
 9 
 6 
 9 
 9 
 (3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 G 
 4 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 5 
 
 
 
 6 
 G 
 6 
 6 
 
 
 Skeeman - 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 C 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Boat-steerei-s 
 
 G 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Line-managers . 
 
 cS 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Cook 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Steward . 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Cook's mate 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Firemen . 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 A. B.'s . 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Ordinary seamen 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Boys 
 Myself . 
 
 3 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 0| 
 
 Note. — Tlie speksioneer is the officer under Avliose direc- 
 tion the wliale is cut up. This word is derivcil tVnnv the 
 Dutch " spek," meaning blubber. Skecnian is the oilicer who 
 superintends between decks the " stowing away " of the 
 blubber in the tanks, and is adopted from the Dutch " scliie- 
 man," the captain of the forecastle. 
 
 ^ Also harpooneers. ^ Also boat-steerers.
 
 12 Pay of the Crew. 
 
 page 11 comprises the usual scale of pay allotted to 
 ofl&cors and men serving on board whalers. 
 
 In addition to the above wages there is also a 
 homos paid to each one of the crew composing the 
 boat that first strikes a whale, provided the fish is 
 afterwards captured, and is what is termed a " pay- 
 able fish/^^ The harpooneer in this case receives 
 10s. if he gets fast with the gun harpoon, 10s. 6d. 
 if with the hand harpoon, and £1 Is. if with both, 
 each member of the boat's crew receiving 2s. 6d. 
 This is termed '^ sticking-money,'' or "^ fast-boat 
 money.'' ' It is also usual for the master to receive 
 £1 for every payable fish struck by a bona fide har- 
 pooneer, and £3 for those struck by a loose har- 
 pooneer, whose position may be looked upon as a 
 harpooneer in embryo, or on probation, and who 
 generally holds that oSice for a couple of years, 
 or until he has proved himself, to the satisfaction 
 of his captain, to be a willing, persevering, and 
 dexterous officer. 
 
 The duties of the crew of a whaler are allotted 
 according to the abilities and qualifications which 
 
 ^ By *' payable fish" are meant all those fish whose whale- 
 bone is six feet and over in length. 
 
 '^ No " stieking-money " is awarded for the capture of a 
 fish whose bone is under s^'x feet. The whalebone is regarded 
 as the most valuable part of a fish, its price at the present 
 time being about £500 per ton ! A large whale of ten or 
 eleven feet bone will yield a ton of whalebone
 
 Duties of tlie Crew. 13 
 
 the men possess as fishermen. Thus the har- 
 ]')Ooncers attend to the conning of the ship during 
 their watch on deck ; the two mates and the spek- 
 sioneer (who are also harpooneers) are in charge of 
 the watch ; the boat-steerers attend to the ropes on 
 the forecastle; the line-managers to those round the 
 mainmast and also to the cleanliness of the ship 
 between decks; the boatswain, who is also a boat- 
 steerer, is held responsible for all work aloft; the 
 skeeman, who is the head line-man and also a boat- 
 steercr, is responsible for everything between decks, 
 and it is also his province to superintend the stow- 
 ing away of the blubber. The remainder are the 
 fore-mast hands, who make themselves generally 
 useful where required. So that, to sum up our 
 crew on board the '' Arctic," we have eight har- 
 pooneers, including the mates and spcksionccr, eight 
 boat-steerers, including the skeeman and boatswain, 
 and eight line-managers. The rest of the crew man 
 the boats. When all boats are away from the ship, 
 there remain on board the captain, doctor, engineer, 
 ship-keeper, cook, and steward. Each boat (we 
 were supplied with eight) has a crew of six men, 
 five rowers and one to steer. JN^o rudders are fitted 
 to the boats ; a steer oar, in consequence of the 
 rapidity with which, by its means, a boat may be 
 swept round, being invariably used. The har- 
 pooneer is in chai-go of the boat, and pulls the bow 
 oar. It is his duty to strike the fish. The line-
 
 14 Kindness received in Dundee. 
 
 manager pulls the stroke oar^ and it is his province^ 
 with the Ijoat-steerer, to see the lines coiled away 
 clear^ and to attend them when running- out^ after a 
 fish has been struck. 
 
 Having thus given a short account of the interior 
 economy of a whaler^ I will^ in the following chap- 
 ters, endeavour to describe the cruise of the good 
 ship '' Arctic/^ during her seventh trip to Baffin^s 
 Bay, in search of that great and unwieldy ceta- 
 cean for whose capture so many bold seamen 
 annually penetrate the mysterious regions of the 
 North. 
 
 During my short stay in Dundee, whilst negotia- 
 ting the terms of my passage, I was most hospi- 
 tably entertained by several of the leading citizens 
 of that prosperous town, amongst the most promi- 
 nent of whom I cannot refrain from mentioning the 
 names of ex-Provost Yeaman,^ Mr. McNaughten 
 the Dean of Guild, and Mr. David Bruce, the 
 manager and agent of most of the vessels com- 
 prising the Dundee whaling fleet. From these 
 o-entlemcn I received the utmost attention, and was 
 treated with the greatest kindness and courtesy, 
 which rendered my stay in their town both agree- 
 able and pleasant. 
 
 1 On my return it was with great pleasure I heard tli:it 
 during my absence this gentleman had been elected by a large 
 majority to represent the town of Dundee in Parliament.
 
 Kindness received in Dundee. 
 
 15 
 
 I take this opportunity of expressing my grati- 
 tude to them for their very kind and cordial recep- 
 tion of mc, and for the valuable advice and assist- 
 ance which I have subsequentl}^ received at their 
 hands during several flying visits to Dundee. 
 
 Scott ClifTs — ^a favourite fisliing ground.
 
 Chapter II. 
 
 "SPANNING ON." 
 
 EDNESDAY, April 30th, was the origi- 
 nal day named for our departure from 
 Dundee ; but owing to delay in the 
 arrival of our coals, our sailing was put 
 off until Saturday, the ord of May. 
 
 We were ready, and might easily have proceeded 
 to sea, on Friday, but the old sailors' superstition, 
 with which our crew was fully imbued, against sail- 
 ing on that day, deferred our departure until half- 
 past six on Saturday morning, at which time, with 
 steam up and colours flying at each masthead, the 
 " Arctic," surrounded by a small crowd, and with 
 her head pointed between the dock-gates, was lying, 
 waiting- only for the order to '' go ahead," to start 
 on her seventh trip to Baffin's Bay. 
 
 1 had but just time to bid a hasty farewell and 
 jump on board before the necessary orders were 
 issued — the engines went ahead, three cheers were
 
 Our Departure. 17 
 
 given by those assembled on the quay, feebly re- 
 sponded to by the sober ones on board. A photo- 
 grapher on the pier-head took a hasty shot as we 
 turned to go out^ and we all felt that we had at last 
 started on our cruise. 
 
 As a general rule, the departure of a whaler is 
 marked by the total incapacity of the crew to per- 
 form any duties whatever connected with the ship, 
 in consequence of the numerous parting glasses of 
 which they have partaken with their friends and 
 acquaintances, and the bumpers that have been 
 drained to the success of the voyage. 
 
 The scene on board an outward-bound whaler 
 on the eve of departure has been (^escribed to me 
 as one both filthy and disgusting. I am very glad 
 to be able to state that, at any rate for this voyage, 
 the *' Arctic^s " crew are an exception to the general 
 rule, the captain informing me that he had never 
 put to sea before with such a ''good and sober 
 crowd." 
 
 Those who were suffering from the effects of 
 over-indulgence had the good sense to keep below, 
 where they were allowed to remain undisturbed 
 until the effects of their carouse had worked off. 
 
 Steaming down the Tay, we stopped off Broughty 
 Ferry, at which place the captain allowed himself a 
 brief leave-taking with his wife ; and having landed 
 all visitors and friends that had accompanied the 
 ship thus far, the boats were hoisted up and 
 
 c
 
 18 Mustering the Creic. 
 
 secured, by half-past ciglit our pilot was discharged, 
 and, shaping our course to the northward, we 
 steamed along the red sandstone cliffs of Forfar- 
 shire. Passing Ai'broath and Montrose, the shore 
 assumed a more rugged and sterile appearance ; the 
 wind, which was adverse, had considerably fresh- 
 ened, and our progress was in consequence neces- 
 sarily slow. In order to avoid a wasteful expendi- 
 ture of fuel, the captain very wisely determined 
 upon anchoring off Aberdeen ; but being unable to 
 obtain the services of a pilot, and darkness having 
 set in, we continued our course to the northward. 
 At 3 A.M. the following morning we brought up off 
 Peterhead, to await more favourable weather. 
 Shortly after leaving Dundee, the ship's company 
 was mustered on the quarter-deck by the captain, 
 and those who were able to answer to their names 
 were divided into three watches, under the first and 
 second mates and speksioneer respectively. A few 
 words were addressed to them, and, after giving 
 three cheers for the captain, they were dismissed. 
 
 Monday, May btli. — We are now fairly away. 
 We left Peterhead at noon yesterday, the wind 
 liaving subsided, and with a light S. E. wind and 
 a beautiful clear moonlit night, passed through the 
 Pentland Firth. This being accomplished, by way 
 of supper I was initiated into the mysteries of 
 "^ whelks," and having by the skijDper's advice 
 smothered them well with vinegar, mushroom-
 
 ''Dulse:' 19 
 
 ketchup^ and pepper, found tliera by no means iin- 
 ])alatable. 
 
 Another favourite edible of our worthy captain 
 is a seaweed called " dulse/^ ^ which is picked up in 
 large quantities on the beach at Broug'hty Ferry. 
 This is kept in a bucket of salt water on the after 
 pai't of the quarter-deck, so as to enable those so 
 disposed to refresh themselves at their pleasure. 
 At noon to-day we lost sight of Cape Wrath, and 
 are all looking forward to a quick run across the 
 Atlantic. We are fortunate in having a fresh N. E. 
 wind, before which the "^ Ai'ctic^' is very lively and 
 also very wet. 
 
 I have quite shaken down to the life on board. 
 Everything is rough but ready, and I am treated 
 by all with the utmost civility and attention. My 
 messmates in the cabin are :■ — The master, a fine 
 honest, good-hearted specimen of a whaling cap- 
 tain ;^ James Bannerman, the mate, a strong, active, 
 daring, and hard-working officer ; Tom Webster,' 
 
 ' " Dulse,'" a corruption of the Gaelic duilliog, from didlle 
 (leaf) aiul ui,sge (water). The name is applied to several 
 species of rose-spored algae, and especially to Rhodomenia 
 palmata and Iridoea edulis. In Ireland it is called dillesk. 
 Lindley says tliat tlie old cry, " Eny dulse and tangle," may 
 even noAV be heard in the streets of Edinburgh ; and dulse is 
 consumed in considerable quantities throughout the mariiiiue 
 countries of the North of Europe. 
 
 "■^ Since promoted to the command of tlic "Ravcnscraig." 
 ■* Everybody on board the " Arctic " was called by his 
 Christian name, a habit which I soon adopted.
 
 20 My Messmates. 
 
 second mate (thougli entered as chief harpooneer), 
 an old and successful harpooneer, who had made 
 upwards of thirty voyages to Baffin's Bay ; Andrew 
 Graham, our doctor, an enthusiastic admirer of 
 nature, and a medical student at the Edinburgh 
 University ; John, om* engineer, an uncouth, rough 
 and unpolished black diamond ; Peter, the second 
 engineer and blacksmith ; and Jack, the steward. 
 Om* meal hours are breakfast at eight, dinner at 
 twelve, and tea at five. In consequence of the 
 limited accommodation afforded in the cabin, we 
 are compelled to have a relay of each meal. Occa- 
 sionally the skipper, doctor, and myself sit down to 
 a supernumei'ary meal at about 10 P.m., consisting, 
 now the whelks have all disappeared, of lobsters, or 
 cheese and grog, or something equally unwhole- 
 some and indigestible, but over which the skipper 
 cracks his jokes, spins his endless yarns, and we 
 talk over the events of the day. 
 
 It was wnth no little anxiety — a feeling which 
 has now subsided to one of interest and wonder — 
 that I watched the dexterous manner in which some 
 of my messmates would perform the apparently 
 impossible feat of eating eggs with a large knife. 
 Forks are decidedly at a discount, every one going 
 on the principle that fingers were made before those 
 useful articles. If we happen to have a joint on the 
 table with the smallest particle of a bone protrud- 
 ing, this is at once seized by the hand of the carver,
 
 Home Sickness. 21 
 
 whilst large junks arc cut off and handed to us. 
 On the whole^ our living is rough^ but certainly 
 substantial. It is amusing to remark the different 
 degrees of '' home sickness " with which my mess- 
 mates are variously affected. Some are in the 
 highest spirits, apparently pleased at the idea of 
 being their own masters and getting away from the 
 thraldom of a jealous and ill-tempered wife ; others 
 are in the lowest depths of despondency, and one 
 confidentially informed me, a few hours after our 
 departure from Dundee, whilst talking of his better 
 half, that the " puir bodie would tak^ on so," and 
 that by that time " she would have cried a pint of 
 tears.'" 
 
 To-day is what is termed " store day,^' when 
 each of the crew has served out to him his share of 
 provisions, excepting meat, generally to last for 
 two or three months. 
 
 The men are not put into regular messes, as on 
 board of a man-of-war, but each man receives his 
 own allowance, which is kept either in his sea-chest 
 or bunk. 
 
 Cooking is allowed to go on all day and all 
 night, and the galley fire is never let out during 
 the whole cruise. The relief watches are always 
 turned up half an hour before their watch com- 
 mences, which time is supposed to be devoted to 
 the fortifying of the . inner man. When a ship 
 arrives on her fishing ground, it is not unusual for
 
 22 Dirty Weather. 
 
 a boat or boats to bo sent after whales and to 
 remain away for eighteen or twenty hours, hence 
 the necessity for obliging each man of the watch to 
 refresh himself before coming on deck. 
 
 TlLiirsday, May Stli. — An unpleasant, showery 
 day, accompanied by a heavy head swell. The 
 wind failing at noon, steam was raised and sail 
 taken in. "\Ve have already passed two of the 
 Dundee whalers, which we imagine to be the 
 " Camperdown " and " Narwhal.^^ It is very pro- 
 bable that we are now the leading ship of the fleet, 
 notwithstanding five having sailed from Dundee 
 before us, as two, the " Intrepid " and " Ravens- 
 craig," have to call in at the Shetland Isles to com- 
 plete their crews. This is the first day that we 
 have been able to enjoy the services of our cook, 
 who is only just recovering from his last day on 
 shore. One of our crew had a slight attack of 
 delirium tremens this afternoon, otherwise they are 
 all well, and confidently look forward to the pros- 
 pect of a quick and prosperous voyage. They are 
 busily employed fitting and preparing the different 
 tackles and pui'chases used for hoisting in the 
 blubber, and also in fitting Jacob's ladders (which 
 are small rope ladders with wooden rungs), eleven 
 of which are always kept over the side to enable 
 the men to jump quickly on board from the ice, or 
 when returning in the boats. 
 
 Saturday, May lOtli. — Blowing a fresh easterly
 
 Blowing a Gale. 23 
 
 gale, before which tlie ship is going nine and ton 
 knots. A wet, drizzly day, with a lower tempera- 
 ture than we have experienced since leaving Eng- 
 land. We may at any moment expect to fall in 
 with icebergs, and extra men are placed to look 
 out day and night. A collision with one at our 
 present speed would not be very desirable. The 
 captain does not expect to make any ice until we 
 are off Cape Farewell. No signs of the other 
 whalers were visible to-day. We have completely 
 run them out of sight. The ship is decidedly not 
 comfortable in wet weather, as her decks leak like a 
 sieve from the continual straining; and both the 
 main cabin and my own are in a constant state of 
 drip, which, to say the least, is most annoying. 
 The upper deck also at sea, even in moderate 
 weather, is rendered unpleasant for exercise, in 
 consequence of the ship having open water-ways 
 running fore and aft, which appear more useful in 
 admitting the water than in taking it off. These 
 little annoyances will not, however, be of long 
 duration, as wo are making good runs, and in a 
 short time shall have crossed the Atlantic and be 
 in the smooth water of Davis' Straits. 
 
 Our days are monotonous enough, and I shall 
 not be sorry when we arrive at the S. W. fishing, 
 where, amongst whales and ice, there will bo much 
 to see and learn. At present one day is the very 
 counterpart of another. We have the same meals
 
 24 Cape Farewell. 
 
 to go through^ generally the same description of 
 food to eat, the same jokes by our skipper, and the 
 same stories to listen to, enlivened occasionally by 
 an Irish song, a recitation from Shakespeare, or a 
 reading from Artemus Ward. 
 
 Monday, May 12th. — Last night was the most 
 wretched and uncomfortable we have passed since 
 being at sea. Not only was the ship knocking 
 about in an unpleasant manner, but, not having- 
 obtained sights for three days, we were all a little 
 anxious regarding her position, especially as we 
 were running along at the rate of eleven knots. 
 At 2 A.M. land was discovered on our starboard 
 bow, a capital land-fall, and at half-past seven I was 
 enabled to take a rough sketch (though at the 
 distance of about thirty miles) of Cape Farewell, 
 the Staten-huk of the Dutch, and of Cape Desola- 
 tion, the Cape Farewell of the Dutch. It wae a 
 fine clear morning, enabling us to get a good view 
 of the distant laud, which appeared bold, bleak, 
 and rugged, and seemed to consist of a number of 
 sharp, conical-shaped black hills, covered, where 
 the summits were not too peaked, with snow. The 
 strong contrast of the black and white gave the 
 laud a most sublime and picturesque appearance. 
 The wind, which had lulled considerably, was blow- 
 ing directly off the land, causing the temperature 
 to fall several degrees. We may consider ourselves 
 very lucky in getting round the cape with such
 
 Spanning on. 25 
 
 charming weather, as it is a curious fact that ships 
 seldom pass Cape Farewell without some little 
 touch of dii-ty weather. The day is really beautiful ; 
 we seem to have suddenly emerged into a totally 
 different climate, cold, but with a bright sun and 
 clear sky. We are now fairly in Davis' Straits, 
 and, taking advantage of the fine weather, active 
 preparations for the capture of whales have been in 
 progress the whole day. All hands have been as 
 busy as bees, employed in the operation of spanniwj 
 on,^ which literally means attaching the lines to the 
 harpoons, and coiling them away in the boats. 
 The first operation was to get the boats out, which 
 are always stowed in board for the passage across 
 the Atlantic ; and before sunset we had sis boats, 
 three hoisted up on each side, ready to go away at 
 a moment's notice. After the lines are served 
 out — everybody, from the captain downwards, being 
 employed — it is quite a race as to which boat 
 shall be first equipped, the crew that has been most 
 expeditious giving three cheers on the completion 
 of its work. 
 
 The manner in which the harpoons are fitted is 
 first with about twelve fathoms for a gun harpoon, 
 and three for a hand harpoon, of the best white 
 untarred hemp rope (2{- in.) The end of this is 
 
 ^ From the Dutch aanspannen, to put the horses to tlie 
 caiTiatTc.
 
 26 
 
 Equipping the Boats. 
 
 spliced round a tliiinLlo in the former, and round 
 the shank of the latter. This rope is called the 
 fore gore or fore ganger} It is stronger and more 
 supple than ordinary rope. To the other end of 
 the fore gore is spliced the remaining whale lines, 
 of which there are five in each boat, of 120 fathoms, 
 the united length of which is over GOO fathoms, 
 
 Hand IIar])Oon. 
 
 (xun Harpoon. 
 
 or a little more than half a mile. These whale 
 lines are made of tarred rope (2^ in.) of the 
 very best quality. The boats having been first 
 thoroughly cleaned, the lines are carefully flaked 
 down in the stern sheets, in a compartment specially 
 set apart for that purpose, with the exception of 
 100 fathoms, which is flaked down in a box in the 
 centre of the boat, called the fore line hech.^ A 
 portion of the line last put into the boat, of a few 
 fathoms in length, is called the stray line. It lies 
 
 ^ From the Dutch vnnrgavger, he who goes before anotlier. 
 2 Beck from the Dutcli hak, a trough, locker.
 
 Equipping the Boats. 
 
 27 
 
 fore and aft in iJio boat, and is always ready for 
 running out. The fore gore is eoilcd down in a 
 small tub or /./'/, wliicli is kept in tlio bows of the 
 
 Harpoon Gun. 
 
 boat alono'side the g'un. Aprons or screens made of 
 painted canvas on which the boat stcerer stands 
 are kept over the linos to protect thorn from tho 
 wet. The harpoon gun is fixed on a swivel in 
 the bows of tho boat, and can easily be traversed 
 round, depressed or elevated by the har- 
 pooneer. The Iiar])oon belonging to tho 
 gun is placed on the port side of it, and 
 the hand harpoon on the starboard side, 
 with its handle resting on a onilc,^ or crutch, 
 ready for immediate use. The harpoons 
 are made of tho softest Swedish iron, 
 which is moro pliable than English, so 
 that they may readily bend without 
 snapping, when any strain is brought to 
 bear on them. A bad harpoon may lose 
 a fish whose value may exceed £1,200. 
 
 ]\Iik." 
 
 ^ Mi/t is a Dutcli word for llic iron in wliicli llio boom 
 rests, cnitcli, cS;(;. It is made of wood, and is nsed for sup- 
 porting the liaudle of the hand harpoon.
 
 28 Equii^ping the Boats. 
 
 Each harpoon has the name of tho ship to which it 
 belongs stamped on the shank. In addition to the 
 articles above enumerated, the following complete 
 the equipment of a whale boat when fully prepared 
 for service : — 
 
 5 pulling oars and 1 steer oai. 
 
 Mast and sail (occasionally) . 
 
 4 lances for killing the whale. 
 
 1 tail knife, used for cutting holes in the tail 
 and fins of a dead whale. 
 
 1 hatchet for cutting the line, if necessary, 
 
 1 flag staff and jack, which is only displayed 
 when a whale is struck. 
 
 1 mik or rest for the hand harpoon. 
 3 spare thole-pins for each thwart. 
 
 2 snow-shovels. 
 
 2 piggons, or small buckets, used for baling the 
 boat out, and for pouring water over the lines to 
 prevent their catching fire from excessive friction. 
 
 1 marline-spike. 
 
 1 splicing fid. 
 
 1 fog-horn. 
 
 1 file. 
 
 2 boathooks. 
 
 A ball of spun yarn. 
 Box of ammunition, &c. 
 
 There is also in each boat a tow rope, used either 
 for towing the dead whale or the boats employed
 
 Equipping the Boats. 20 
 
 in that duty ; also a fin toiu, which is a rope used 
 to lash the two fins together across the belly of the 
 fish, so as to offer no impediment whilst towing. 
 Tholc-pins are always used in whale boats, and the 
 oars arc invariably muffled by a sort of thrum mat, 
 which lies on the gunwale. A Turk's head' is 
 worked on the loom of each oar, which prevents it 
 from going through the grummet on the thole-pin, 
 when pushed out after striking a fish, allowing it 
 to run fore and aft with the boat. A steer oar is 
 always used in preference to a rudder, over which 
 i^ decidedly has many advantages. By its means, 
 on a still day, a boat may be sculled close up to a 
 whale, which would otherwise be frightened by the 
 splashing of oars ; with it a boat may be instantly 
 swept round, though lying quiescent at the time ; 
 and a boat is more easily managed among ice by 
 being propelled with its aid between floes or 
 amongst loose pack. On striking the whale, the 
 steer oar is pushed out to the Turk's head, which, 
 as on the pulling oars, is worked on the loom, the 
 boat steerer immediately throwing back the apron 
 and kneeling down at the very extremity of the 
 boat, where ho attends carefully to the running 
 out of .the line. When a boat is in want of more 
 
 ^ A Turk's head is a description of knot, wliieli is plaited 
 on to a rope or oar, thereby forming an obstruction and pi-e- 
 veuting anything from slipping past it.
 
 30 Directions for Whaling. 
 
 line, wbich very frequently happens when fishing in 
 deep water, as a whale on being struck generally 
 dives, the boat's 'pigcjon is elevated on an oar or 
 boathook as a signal — if very urgent, two, three, 
 and even four oars, according to the immediate 
 want, are held up. 
 
 The greatest care and attention arc required from 
 the boat's crew, after getting fast to a whale, to 
 see that the lines run out clear, boathooks or 
 staves being placed across the gunwale to prevent 
 their fouling anything during the rapid career of 
 the fish, which will often take the whole length of 
 lines out of one boat in five minutes. 
 
 Should the line, through carelessness or from 
 some unforeseen accident, become foul, unless im- 
 mediately cut (in which case the fish is lost) the 
 boat will be drawn down, and the crew placed in 
 imminent danger of drowning. 
 
 Tuesday, May VMli. — Last night, as the captain, 
 doctor, and myself were jDreparing* our midnight 
 meal — a villainous compound of cheese, pepper, 
 and mustard called a " crab," the door opened, and 
 M' Slasher, who had previously informed us that 
 the ajipearance of the sky, which was of a greyish 
 hue, denounced the proximity of ice, reported that 
 we were passing ice. 
 
 Leaving our supper, we jumped up, and were 
 hastily putting on our coats, when a heavy crash and 
 a trembling of the ship confirmed his report. We
 
 Collisions with the Ice. 31 
 
 had struck a mass of straggling ice, and as we 
 hastened on deck, large pieces were rising to the 
 surface on each quarter ; and we appeared, as was 
 really the case, to be surrounded by innumerable 
 masses of floating ice. Extra hands were placed on 
 the look-out, another man to the helm, whilst 
 another was stationed midway to pass the word 
 along from the captain, who was directing the mo- 
 tions of the ship from the forecastle. During the 
 remainder of the night there seemed to be a cease- 
 less repetition of the orders ^^ hard-a-starboard,'^ 
 *' hard-a-port,^^ or " steady as you go ; " but despite 
 the utmost vigilance on the jDart of those in charge 
 of the ship, the weather being very thick and misty, 
 we occasionally came into collision with a mass, 
 which would set everything on the table in motion, 
 causing the bell to toll with a doleful and melancholy 
 sound. This ice has probably been blown off from 
 Cape Farewell and the west coast of Greenland 
 dm-ing the strong easterly winds which we have 
 lately experienced. 
 
 The morning broke fine and clear, and by seven 
 o'clock we had steamed clear of the ice and made 
 sail to a light northerly wind. 
 
 As the men went aloft for the purpose of making- 
 sail, we on deck were assailed by a perfect shower 
 of j)ieces of ice, which having frozen on to the 
 rio-o-ino- and sails during the night, were broken off 
 and detached from their hold in consequence of
 
 32 Collisions with the Ice. 
 
 the vibration imparted to the rigging by the motions 
 of the men. 
 
 At nine, more ice was observed ahead, and we 
 were soon in another straggling stream ; but, as it 
 was daylight, we were enabled, though not without 
 keeping a sharp look-out, to avoid coming into 
 contact with the heavier j)ieces. It was a glorious 
 and novel sight to me, seeing these floating masses 
 of ice, some of them assuming the most picturesque 
 and fantastic forms, many being of a bright blue 
 colour. Soon the quick eyes of our captain dis- 
 covered a huge seal lying- on the top of one of these 
 ice islands, dreamily looking at us, in wondering 
 surprise, as we approached. Poor brute ! a bullet 
 from my rifle (the captain having deputed me to 
 shed the first blood of the cruise) terminated its 
 existence ; a boat was lowered, and the monster 
 brought on board. Others were now observed, and 
 four boats were despatched to eflect their capture, 
 in one of which I went. Directly a seal was shot, 
 we would at once pull in to the ice on which it was 
 lying, and I was surprised at the marvellous rapidity 
 and dexterity with which our men would skin, or, as 
 it is termed, " flinch " the beast. I had the curi- 
 osity to time a couple of men whilst performing 
 this operation on a large seal. It was actually 
 " flinched," and the skin thrown into the boat, in 
 fifty-eight seconds ! We were away in the boats 
 about a couple of hours, during which time we
 
 The Crow's Nest. 33 
 
 obtained fourteen seals. After the skins are taken 
 on board, the next operation performed on them is 
 that of " krenging-/^ ' which is stripping or cutting 
 off any small portions of flesh that may be adhering 
 to the blubber, which latter is then cut off from the 
 skin, and this last process is called " making off/' '^ 
 The blubber is put into barrels or tanks between 
 decks, and the skins are salted and stowed in a 
 cask with brine. 
 
 In the afternoon the crow's nest was got up, and 
 the remaining two boats hoisted out and equipped. 
 
 We are now fully prepared and anxious to wage 
 war with the huge monsters of the deep. 
 
 The crow's nest is simply a large cask or barrel, 
 which is triced up to the main-royal masthead. 
 The lower end rests on an iron jack above the eyes 
 of the top-gallant rigging, secured to the mast with 
 an iron band, and the upper part has an iron strap 
 which goes round the royal pole. On the top is an 
 iron framework for resting a telescope. It is alto- 
 gether a very ingenious contrivance. There is a 
 small trap-hatch in the bottom, sufficiently large to 
 admit a man, which can be shut down, and serves 
 for the inmate to stand upon. When on the fishing 
 ground the crow's nest is always occupied. 
 
 1 From the Dutch hreii!^, meaning carrion. 
 
 '^ " Making oiF," according to Scoresby, is derived from the 
 Dutch word afmaaken, signifying to finish or complete ; pro- 
 liably in consequence of its being the concluding operation. 
 
 D
 
 34 Bottle-nosed Whales. 
 
 In the evenings we passed large quantities of ice, 
 and saw several bottle-nosed whales; but the capture 
 
 Swivel Harpoon.
 
 Make for S.-W. Fishing- Ground. 
 
 6;) 
 
 of one of these does not offer sufficient inducement 
 to delay our progress towards the south-western 
 fishing-ground, and therefore the captain resolutely 
 holds on. 
 
 Seals on tlie Ice.
 
 Chapter III. 
 
 THE SOUTH-WEST FISHING. 
 
 ^^f\HURSDAY, May Ibth.—ln the fore- 
 noon the ice-blink, which is a light 
 whitish tint along the horizon, pro- 
 ■^ claiming the immediate vicinity of ice, 
 was plainly visible. Several large icebergs were 
 passed, one of which was of enormous dimensions. 
 We estimated its length to be at least a mile, and 
 its height between two and three hundred feet. 
 When first seen, I was under the impression it was 
 land distant about seventy miles off, and it was 
 some little time before I was convinced that it 
 was really and truly an island of ice. 
 
 Shortly after noon we arrived at the edge of a 
 large and compact stream of pack ice, and seeing 
 clear water beyond, the ship was pushed in. The 
 ice, however, was found to be of a heavier descrip- 
 tion than was anticipated ; in fact, as the captain
 
 Sighting the Whales. o7 
 
 observed, it was a mass of floating bergs, in which 
 we were, for a time, hopelessly jammed. 
 
 Though there was a fresh breeze blowing at the 
 time, and the ship had every stitch of canvas that it. 
 was possible to set, with the engines going ahead 
 full speed, we were immovable for at least twenty- 
 five or thirty minutes. From the deck, as far as 
 the eye could reach, the ice was continuous, even 
 the wake of the ship being closed up. 
 
 Eventually, by dint of screwing and boring, we 
 succeeded in forcing our way through this stream 
 of ice, and reached the clear water, ov polynia, ahead, 
 though not without experiencing a little rough hand- 
 ling — coUisions by which the ship was brought to a 
 standstill — sufficiently serious to damage any ordi- 
 narily built ship. 
 
 Shortly after four, our observant and ever-watch- 
 ful captain espied three whales from the crow's nest. 
 Instantly all was excitement ; the main-topsail was 
 backed, and four boats quickly lowered and in chase. 
 1^0 sooner had they left the ship than other whales 
 were seen, and by five o'clock every boat in the 
 ship was away and in pursuit. Though the whales 
 were numerous, and the harpooneers used their 
 utmost exertions, they were unable to approach 
 sufficiently near to strike. It was, therefore, with 
 the greatest reluctance, after five hours' ceaseless 
 pulhng, that the captain ordered the boats to be re- 
 called. We must ascribe our want of success to-day
 
 38 A Fimitless Attempt. 
 
 either to tlie timidity of tlie wliales, or the extreme 
 clearness of the water. 
 
 During the absence of the boats, we on board 
 were fully occupied in the multifarious duties con- 
 nected with the working of the ship ; and taking 
 into consideration the few remaining hands left, we 
 succeeded in tacking several times in a very credit- 
 able manner. 
 
 There seems no doubt that we have hit off the 
 right spot, and all, though a little disappointed at 
 the result of the day's exertions, confidently look 
 forward to the prospect of plenty of work during 
 the ensuing ten days. 
 
 It is a great thing to be the first ship on the 
 ground, as the whales will not have been frightened 
 b}' previous attempts at capture. The engines are 
 not now used, as the slightest noise made by the 
 screw, or in fact anything under water, would at 
 once, to use a whaler's phrase, '' scare the fish." 
 
 The whalers are very arbitrary in their phrase- 
 ology, for although a whale is not a fish, with them 
 nothing is a fish but the Greenland whale. For 
 the future I shall adopt their ways, and call the 
 mammal, the capture of which is our great object, a 
 fish. 
 
 Our days are now very long-, the night seldom 
 being of more than three or four hours' duration ; 
 and the reflection of the sun, which is a very short 
 distance below the horizon, is clearly visible to a 
 very late and at a very early hour.
 
 We strike a Fish. o9 
 
 Fr'uJay, May 16th. — This has been rather an 
 eventful and exciting day^ though the result has not 
 turned out as we could all have wished. A little 
 before noon a fish was seen. Two boats were im- 
 mediatelj lowered and sent in pursuit. We were 
 at this time close to the edge of very heavy pack 
 ice. After an anxious half-hour had passed, the 
 whale was seen to rise close to the boat in which 
 was the speksioneer. All was now breathless ex- 
 citement, which was increased, if possible, when we 
 saw the bow oar laid fore and aft, and the spek- 
 sioneer rise to his gun. A puff of smoke, a moment 
 of intense anxiety, relieved quickly by the captain^s 
 voice from the crow's nest, calling, " A fall ! a fall ! " 
 and the same cry borne along the water from the 
 successful boat, and we knew that Davey Smith, 
 the speksioneer, was fast. Immediately the upper 
 deck was alive with men, all frantically shouting, 
 " A fall ! a fall ! '' ^ and rushing to the boats in 
 
 ^ The cry, " A fiiU ! a fall ! " which is always called the in- 
 stant a boat is fast to a fish, is most probably derived from 
 the Dutch Avord of command " val,'' signifying to man the 
 boats. 
 
 It may also be ascribed to the Dutch word " wall " (pro- 
 nounced val) meaning a whale. 
 
 Some of the old whalers, hoAvever, are under the imjires- 
 sion that when " a fall !" is cried, it implies that the mcu on 
 board are to stand by the falls of the boats in readiness to 
 lower. There are numerous old and quaint words and plirases 
 made use of in the whaling trade, whose origin it would be 
 difficult to trace.
 
 40 Excitement on Board. 
 
 readiness for an instant departure. All the men 
 appeared to have gone suddenly distracted, and 
 were tearing- about the decks half dressed, with 
 their boots in one hand and a bundle of clothes in 
 the other. Four boats were ordered to be lowered, 
 and despatched with instructions to spread in dif- 
 ferent directions, the more readily to strike another 
 harpoon into the whale when it next rose to blow. 
 Meanwhile the fast boat ^ had hoisted its jack,^ to 
 denote that it was fast, a second boat pulling up at 
 once in order to bend on their own lines if neces- 
 sary. The fish, on being struck, had, as anticipated 
 and feared, made for the ice. 
 
 We in the ship, having steam at our command, 
 immediately followed, steering for the pack, which 
 we shortly entered ; and then ensued a scene which 
 almost baffles description. It was blowing a stiff 
 breeze, and there was rather a heavy swell on at 
 the time. The fast boat had been brought to a 
 
 ^ In the whale fishery, any boat which has a harpoon into a 
 whale is denominated a " fast boat," all others " loose boats." 
 So also with the whales : one that has been strnck is called a 
 " fast fish," others " loose fish." Should the line break and 
 the hai'poon still remain in the whale, it is a " loose fish," and 
 may become the prize of any other ship, notwithstanding the 
 liarpoon, witll the vessels name engraved on it, being imbedded 
 in its flesh. 
 
 - A fishing flag or jack is always displayed by every boat 
 that is fast to a fish.
 
 Pursuing the Fish. 41 
 
 stop by a heavy floe, and the other boats, which 
 had all entered the loose pack in pursuit of the fish, 
 were being so severely handled by the ice, that for 
 some time great fears were entertained for their 
 safety. On several occasions they were nearly 
 crushed between the floes, and were only saved by 
 the promptitude of their crews, who, hastily jump- 
 ing out, would haul them up on the ice. Some of 
 these floes were drawing over twenty feet of water, 
 which may give an idea of the ponderous weight of 
 these floating masses of ice. After a little time had 
 elapsed, and not without a great deal of difficulty, 
 we succeeded in picking up our four loose boats, 
 and then directed om* attention to the fish, which 
 had been observed to come up in a water space, 
 but at such a distance that we were unable either to 
 use a lance or to fire a second harpoon. Our first 
 project was to transfer the lines from the fast boat 
 to the ship, which was accordingly done, though 
 not without much trouble, as the fish was still taking 
 line, and at such a rate that the bows of the boat 
 were drawn down to the water's edge, and the 
 harpooneer was enveloped in smoke caused by the 
 friction of the line round the bollard head. The 
 whale had by this time run out ten lines (1,200 
 fathoms), equivalent to about a mile and a 
 quarter. 
 
 The captain was much afraid lest ho should lose 
 all these lines, as he had from the first foreseen the
 
 42 Cheerful Anticipations, 
 
 difficulty that must necessarily ensue in attempting 
 to capture a whale amidst such heavy ice. 
 
 However^ no one despaired, and " all hands " 
 manned the line, resolved to bring the fish home, 
 carry away the lino, or draw the harpoon. Every 
 one worked well and cheerily, knowing that £1,000 
 was at the other end of the line. It was with no 
 little surprise and wonder that I witnessed, for the 
 first time, the enormous power and strength of these 
 leviathans of the deep. Not only were we being 
 towed by the monster through the pack, but with 
 such rapidity that we were frequently brought into 
 violent contact with the heavy floes. 
 
 Things were beginning to look brighter; heavy 
 strains had been brought on the line, and still 
 everything held ; the men were singing cheerily, 
 and already counting up their oil money; more than 
 half the line had been hauled in, and we were all 
 confidently looking forward in a short time to behold 
 our prize. Suddenly a more than usual strain came 
 upon the line, a quick and sudden jerk, the line ran 
 in easily, and we knew our fish had escaped. A 
 bitter sense of disappointment seemed instanta- 
 neously to settle upon everybody. " She^s gone ! " 
 was re-echoed through the ship; no more jokes 
 were cracked, no longer was any singing heard, and 
 the line was hauled in slowly and silently. 
 
 The fish had been struck with two harpoons — 
 the gun and the hand ; the latter, it appeared, had
 
 Disappointment. 43 
 
 drawn, and in doing so its sharp edge had severed 
 the fore gore to which the gun-harpoon was at- 
 tached. This hitter tlio unfortunate fish cai-ried 
 away embedded in its flesh, a painful and uncom- 
 fortable souvenir. The hand harpoon, wliich we 
 recovered, was bent and twisted in a surprising 
 manner. We had been fast to the fish over four 
 hours. 
 
 The captain, though sorely tried, soon recovered 
 his usual good temper and jovial spirits, consoling 
 himself by saying that it might have been worse, as 
 he might have also lost all his lines. We must hope 
 for better luck next time. We succeeded in steam- 
 ing out clear of the pack at about 6 p.m., and, put- 
 ting the ship once more under canvas, " lay to " in 
 a regular bight formed by the ice, which is regarded 
 as a likely-looking place for fish. 
 
 Ttiesday, May 20 tJo. — The last three days have 
 been passed with the usual bustle and excitement 
 attendant on seeing whales ; boats have been low- 
 ered, but have always returned unsuccessful, after 
 long and wearisome chases. Occasionally a boat 
 would approach nearly to striking distance, but 
 only to be disappointed by the fish escaping under 
 the ice just as the harpooueer was rising to his gun. 
 These little failures are all most annoying and vexa- 
 tious ; it is very tantalizing getting so many 
 chances, and yet always being vmsucccssful in our 
 attempts to secure a prize. Our men are very
 
 44 Superstitions of the Creiv. 
 
 superstitious, and attribute our ill-luck to various 
 causes. One day it is put down to a comb which is 
 universally used l)y all in the cabin, and which, in 
 consequence, nearly fell a victim to their supersti- 
 tion ; another day it is to a small pig we have on 
 board, and which, I have no doubt, if we do not get 
 a fish, will soon be offered as a sacrifice at the shrine 
 of Dame Fortune. I trust they will not impute 
 their ill-luck to the fact of my being on board, 
 imagining that a naval oSicer is as unlucky on board 
 a whaler as some sailors fancy bishops to be. Other 
 whalers have joined us, and yesterday, to our mor- 
 tification, one of them, the " Narwhal,'^ succeeded in 
 capturing a fine fish under our very eyes. 
 
 The whale had been first seen by one of our men, 
 and two boats lowered and despatched in pursuit, 
 the other ships also sending their boats. These 
 were all spread out, occupying a distance of at least 
 a mile, when, as ill-luck would have it (as far as we 
 were concerned), the whale rose close to one of the 
 " Narwhal's '' boats, which immediately struck the 
 fish, and up went the flag as a signal that they were 
 fast, on perceiving which the " Narwhal " hoisted 
 her jack,' and sent the remainder of her boats away 
 
 ^ When ships are fishing in company, it is usual for the 
 vessel whose boat succeeds in getting fast to a fish, to display 
 the foUing jack from the mizen top-gallant mast head, which 
 is kept flying until the fish is killed. Each ship has a diifereut 
 device or pattern for her fishing flag.
 
 A Fish Captured. 45 
 
 to assist in killing the wlialo, the boats belonging" 
 to the other ships being recalled. ]\Iean while the 
 unfortunate fish, which had gone down to a consi- 
 derable depth on being- struck, came up to blow, 
 when another harpoon was fired into it, and another 
 flag was hoisted, announcing that two boats were 
 fast, and so this continu.ed until there were five boats 
 fast, leaving three others free to come up and de- 
 spatch the whale with their lances. By that time, 
 however, we were at too great a distance for me to 
 observe any of the details. The whale ships always 
 have their boats painted different colours, the more 
 readily to distinguish them from other boats when 
 fishing in company. Ours are painted blue, white, 
 blue, longitudinally, with black gunwales ; and our 
 fishing flag is white, with a blue five-pointed star. 
 We keep dodging about amongst the ice, poking 
 into water-holes, always keeping a bright look-out 
 for fish. Several white whales and narwhals keep 
 sporting about the ship, but these are seldom 
 molested when there is a chance of obtaining larger 
 and more profitable game. Numerous icebergs are 
 in sight, some of enormous size. Yesterday we 
 passed to leeward of one whoso circumference must 
 have been over two miles. 
 
 We have seen land to the westward, which wo 
 suppose to be Resolution Isle, distant about twenty- 
 five or thirty miles. We attempted to obtain 
 soundings, but got no bottom with two hundred
 
 46 Temperature of Sea. 
 
 fathoms of line out. I brought into use on this 
 occasion the Casella thermometer with which the Hy- 
 drographer had kindly supplied me^ and ascertained 
 that the temperature at that depth was 30", whilst 
 at the surface it was 34'', the air at the same time 
 being 39". This result must at once put a stop to 
 
 Iceberg. 
 
 any idea that may be entertained of a warm current 
 flowing up Davis' Straits. 
 
 This evening we forced our way through several 
 wide and apparently impervious streams of ice, 
 which kept the men incessantly at work, either 
 throwing everything aback to avoid a collision -with 
 an unusually large and heavy floe, or else backing 
 the main-topsail only, to deaden the ship's way.
 
 Effects caused by Refraction. 47 
 
 It is most interesting to watch the large masses 
 of ice crack, and in some cases crumble up, as the 
 ship comes into violent contact with them, and to 
 observe the masterly and skilful manner in which 
 the ship is handled by the captain, or officer sta- 
 tioned in the crow's nest. 
 
 Thursday, May 22nd. — Our ill-luck continues to 
 remain with us. Every day we see fish, and the 
 boats are sent away in chase ; but the fish show 
 sufficient sense to make themselves scarce on the 
 approach of their would-be captors, and the boats 
 consequently always return unsuccessful. When 
 the ship is not in motion, one or two boats are 
 always kept manned by the watch on deck, which 
 lay off the edge of the ice, or where ordered, in 
 readiness to pursue a fish the instant it is seen. 
 This is called keeping a boat " on bran." We arc 
 now, to our great delight, entirely by ourselves, the 
 remainder of the fleet having sought a fishing- 
 ground further to the westward. Yesterday I ob- 
 served the wonderful distortion caused by refrac- 
 tion. The " Intrepid/' which was hull down on the 
 horizon, probably about eight miles off, was drawn 
 out into an elongated and most fantastic shape. 
 Her funnel seemed to rise as high as her main-top- 
 gallant mast head, whilst her sails assumed the most 
 quaint and wonderful forms. Icebei'gs, also in the 
 distance, seemed to have no connexion with the 
 water, but appeared suspended as it were in mid air.
 
 48 
 
 Prince Regent Inlet. 
 
 Life on board a whaler^ though occasionally en- 
 livened by a little excitement^ is after all rather 
 . weary and monotonous when confined to an area of 
 a few miles in extent to cruise about in, especially 
 when one's thoughts are always on the unexplored 
 regions of the far north. At present our captain's 
 great idea, should the whales be scarce in Baffin's 
 Bay, is to push up Prince Regent Inlet into the 
 Gulf of Boothia, that in his opinion being the great 
 resort and breeding-place of the mysticete. Little 
 is known of that interesting locality, no whaler hav- 
 ing as yet had the enterprise to navigate its waters. 
 The whale ships, as a rule, unless commanded by 
 some dashing and energetic man, invariably fish 
 upon the old ground, and seldom leave the beaten 
 track. 
 
 Eglinton Tnlot — a favourite resort of the wbalers 
 in Davis' Straits.
 
 CilAl'TER IV. 
 
 FLIXCHIXG" AND "MAKING OFF. 
 
 T lengthy after several near '' shaves/' 
 I am enabled to chronicle the capture 
 of a whale, and to describe the sub- 
 sequent operations connected with the 
 cutting up or " flinching'' of the fish. 
 
 At four o'clock this morning a whale was seen, 
 and a couple of boats lowered and sent in pursuit, 
 but the chase was apparently abandoned shortly 
 after five, the captain looking into my cabin, and in 
 forcible terms expressing his opinion, that notwith- 
 standing his having 'Hurned his horse-shoe" j-ester- 
 day, we were going to have no luck this cruise. He 
 then went to bed. At half-past seven our ears 
 were assailed by that cry, which is such sweet music 
 to all on board a whaler, " A fall I a fall ! " accom- 
 panied by the usual commotion on deck. Hurriedl}' 
 putting my coat on, being in the act of dressing at 
 the time, I hastened up and found that the spek-
 
 50 
 
 Capture of a Whale. 
 
 sioneer was again the lucky man, having struck a 
 fine fish, which was rapidly towing him towards the 
 edge of the pack ice. Our boats were soon in the 
 water, and in less than twenty minutes the unfortu- 
 nate fish had six harpoons buried in its body. In 
 the mean time I had retired below to complete my 
 toilet, the scanty manner in which I was attired 
 
 AVliale {Balceiia Mi/stirrtu.t). 
 
 being ill adapted for remaining on deck with the 
 temperature four degrees below the freezing point. 
 On my return to the upper deck, the loose boats 
 were observed alongside their prey in the act of 
 administering with lances the coup de grace, ou 
 receiving which the huge monster turned over on 
 its back and expired. The flags in the fast boats 
 were then struck amidst the cheers of the men both 
 in the boats and on board the ship. The loose boats 
 were at once recalled to the ship, their crews, after 
 the boats had been hoisted up, being busily em- 
 ployed in making the necessary preparations for
 
 |||,,[,|,u,n,n,,|,|,,,|,|m,|,||M,^™,j,|j,|,|p^^^^^
 
 Preparations for bringing Alongside. 51 
 
 flinching and taking in tlie blubber. The crews of 
 the fast boats were engag*ed in hauling in and coil- 
 ing away their linoSj which on the death of the 
 whale are always cut at the splice of the fore gore. 
 It is usually the duty of the crew of the first fast 
 boat to prepare the whale for coming alongside. The 
 preparations consist in cutting a hole through each 
 fin, for the purpose of receiving the fin-tow, and 
 lashing them together across the belly of the fish. 
 This is done in order that they may ofi'er no obstruc- 
 tion in the water whilst the fish is being towed 
 alongside. The tail is then roused up to the bows 
 of the boat, and in this way the fish is brought to 
 the port side of the ship, and there secured in the 
 following manner. The fish is always brought 
 alongside with its tail forward abreast of the fore 
 chains ; it is then secured by means of a tackle from 
 the fore rigging, which is hooked to a strop round 
 the small end of the tail (where it is united to the 
 back of the fish), and by a stout rope, which is 
 called the ^'rump rope.^^ A similar purchase is 
 hooked from the main rigging to a strop rove 
 through a hole cut in the extremity of the under 
 jaw, which is called the '' nose tackle." The right 
 fin of the fish (which is next the ship's side, the 
 whale being on its back) is dragged taut up and 
 secured by a chain or rope to the upper deck, the 
 bulwarks of the vessel on the port side being un- 
 shipped. Between the fore-mast and m;iin-inast is
 
 52 The Operation of Flinching. 
 
 a stout wire rope, called the '' blubber guy/' having 
 foui' large single blocks stropped to it, through which 
 are rove the fore and main spek tackles (five-inch 
 rope) . The former is usually worked by the steam 
 winch, and the latter by a hand winch near the 
 main-mast. These tackles are useH for hoisting on 
 board the large layers of blubber, some between 
 one and two tons in weight, as they are cut off. 
 
 From the main-mast head is a heavy purchase 
 called the " kent" ^ or '^ cant " tackle, which is used 
 to turn the fish over as it is being flinched. It con- 
 sists of a treble and a double block, having a seven- 
 inch fall. Everything being in readiness, the crew 
 are turned up, and having been primed with a glass 
 of grog all round, commence the operation of flinch- 
 ing. Two boats, called " mollie boats," attend upon 
 those engaged in cutting up, and are kept alongside 
 the fish by a couple of hands in each boat, who are 
 named " mollie boys," the lines having been care- 
 fully covered over with boards to prevent injury. 
 The captain, from the port main rigging, superin- 
 tends the whole process ; the mate in the gangway 
 acting under his orders. The remaining seven 
 harpooneers, under the guidance of the speksioneer, 
 are on the whale, and with their blubber spades and 
 knives separate the blubber from the carcase in long 
 
 ' Kent, derived from the Dutch, signifying to "cant" or 
 '• turn."
 
 The Operation of Flinching. 
 
 53 
 
 strips, which are hoisted in, as before mentioned, 
 by the fore and main spek tackles. Previous to 
 this, however, a strip of blubber, from 
 two to three feet in width, is cut from 
 the neck, just abaft the inside fin. This 
 is called the " cant.^' A large hole is 
 then cut in this band of blubber, through 
 which is passed the strop of the cant 
 purchase, and secured there by a wooden 
 toggle or fid being passed through. By 
 means of this purchase, brought to the 
 windlass, the fish is turned over as re- 
 quired. Each harpooneer has iron spikes, 
 called " spurs,^' strapped on to his boots, 
 to avoid the possibility of slipping off the 
 fish. 
 
 The belly is the first part of the whale 
 that is operated upon. After the blubber 
 from this part has been completely taken 
 off and the right fin removed, the fish is 
 canted on to its side by means of the 
 large tackle, and the blubber from the 
 opposite side is similarly stripped. The 
 whalebone is then detached, special 
 bone gear being used for this purpose, 
 and the lips hoisted in, and so on until 
 all that is valuable has been cut off and Bluliltor 
 taken on board. The tail is then sepa- Spade. 
 rated from the carcase, or " krcng,'^ as it is called,
 
 54 Tlie Wialehone. 
 
 which latter being released disappears with a plunge, 
 the noise of which is drowned only by the cheers of 
 the men, the water being coloured with a sanguine 
 hue for some distance. The duties of the boat-steerers 
 during this operation are to cut np the large strips 
 of blubber as they are received on deck into pieces 
 about two feet square, with long knives. These 
 pieces are seized by the line managers, armed with 
 ''pickies^^ or '' pick-haaks,^' ^ and transported below 
 through a small hole in the main hatchway. Below 
 
 Pick-liaak. 
 
 they are received by the " skeeman," and another 
 man denominated a " king,'' by whom they are 
 stowed tempoi-arily between decks, until such time 
 as an opportunity may offer for performing the final 
 operation of '' making-oflF." 
 
 The whalebone, on being received on deck, is 
 split up into portions, each containing fi-om nine to 
 sixteen blades, by means of large iron wedges, and 
 these are again divided into pieces of three or four 
 blades, when what is called the gum, which con- 
 nects them together, is removed. There are be- 
 tween three and four hundred of these blades in 
 each side of the head. 
 
 ^ A Dutch word.
 
 Cheering Effect of tlie Capture. 55 
 
 Tho tail of the whale is cut up into blocks^ which 
 are used climng- the process of " making off," form- 
 ing excellent blocks, on which the blubber is chop- 
 ped up into small pieces, thereby preserving the 
 edge of their instruments. It is customary for the 
 boat-steerer of the first fast boat to have the choice 
 of blocks, after which selection each man marks his 
 own by cutting his initials upon it, or otherwise 
 distinguishing it. 
 
 After the operation of flinching is concluded, the 
 upper deck, as may be imagined, is in a very filthy 
 state, and so slippery that unless great care and 
 caution are exercised whilst walking, a fall is in- 
 evitable. A little sawdust, however, sprinkled over 
 the worse parts, makes it a safer promenade. 
 
 Our men were remarkably quick in flinching this 
 our first whale, the " kreng " sinking, amidst the 
 frantic cheers of all hands, exactly two hours after 
 the operation had commenced. 
 
 The crews of these ships are always ready to 
 cheer on the slightest provocation. It is customary 
 to give three cheers, both when the fish is killed 
 and when the last of it is taken on board. This 
 capture already seems to have had a wonderful effect 
 upon every one on board ; all are now in high 
 spirits, predicting a successful cruise, and a return 
 to Dundee with a full ship. 
 
 The men attribute their good fortune to-day to 
 the fact of their having last night burnt in effigy
 
 56 Capture of a Bear. 
 
 two of the crew, who are supposed to bring ill-luck, 
 having had the bad fortune to serve of late years in 
 ships which have returned " clean/^ or after very- 
 poor voyages. Our prize to-day was not what is 
 considered a large one, although regarded as a fair 
 average-sized fish. It will probably yield about 
 thirteen tons of oil; its bone was 9 ft. 6 in. long; 
 altogether about the value of £800 ; its length was 
 between forty and fifty feet. The six harpoons, which 
 were taken out of the whale during the process of 
 flinching, were twisted and bent into most extra- 
 ordinary shapes, thereby fully demonstrating the 
 necessity of their being made of soft and pliable 
 iron, so as to yield without snapping, and at the 
 same time to resist the enormous power exerted by 
 the fish in its endeavour to escape from its relent- 
 less enemies. 
 
 Whilst engaged in securing the fish alongside, 
 the steward, who has a remarkably quick eye, 
 espied a bear upon an iceberg about two hundred 
 yards from the ship. Running down for my rifle, 
 I jumped into the dingy, and with the doctor and a 
 couple of hands pulled in the direction it had been 
 seen. On rounding the berg we observed Master 
 Bruin, who trotted down towards us, apparently to 
 make a closer inspection, and satisfy his own 
 curiosity. A buUet from my rifle entering his 
 shoulder caused him to beat a rapid retreat, endea- 
 vouring to effect it by taking to the water, and
 
 " Making off.'' 
 
 Oi 
 
 avoiding us by swimming and diving. I fired a second 
 shot at about fifty yards, which, passing through his 
 skull, killed him instantaneously. Ho was a fine 
 young bear, measuring close upon seven feet. The 
 skins of bears, after being flinched, are treated in 
 the same way as are those of seals, a large quantity 
 of blubber being taken off them. 
 
 Twisted Harpoons. 
 
 We are now in a large water-hole, entirely sur - 
 rounded by ice. The captain does not anticipate 
 much trouble in getting clear, though we shall pro- 
 bably have to bore through over fifty miles of rather 
 heavy ice ! 
 
 SatimJay, May 24th. — This being a fine calm 
 day, and no whales having been observed^ advan- 
 tage was taken to perform the operation of " making 
 off." To carry out this duty, in which " all hands"
 
 58 '' Making ojfr 
 
 are engaged, it is necessary to select a quiet day, 
 to enable the men to complete the entire operation 
 without being disturbed. 
 
 The blubber is first hoisted on deck by means of 
 the main winch, worked by the firemen. It is then 
 seized by two men on each side of the deck, who, 
 with their pickies, drag it to two others stationed 
 on each side (generally harpooneers) , whose duty it 
 is to cut it up in pieces about twelve or sixteen 
 pounds weight, and who remove from it all kreng 
 and other extraneous matter. These latter are 
 
 Clash and Clash-hookp. 
 
 called "krengers." The blubber is then thrown 
 forward to the remaining harpooneers, who are sta- 
 tioned on each side of the deck near a '^clash,^^ 
 which is an iron stanchion firmly fixed into a socket 
 in the deck, standing about three feet high, and 
 having five iron spikes on the top. 
 
 Each harpooneer, or " skinner," as he is called 
 whilst so employed, has an assistant, who is called 
 a "dasher," who picks up the pieces of blubber 
 having skin on with a pair of clash-hooks, and 
 places it on the top of the clash. The skin is then 
 separated from the blubber by the skinner, armed 
 with a long knife. The blubber is then deposited
 
 " Makinfj ojjy 59 
 
 iu a heap, which is called the '^ bank/^ directly in 
 front of the " spek trough/' which latter is a largo 
 oblong trough, about eighteen feet long, and two 
 feet in width and breadth, which is placed imme- 
 diately above the hatchway, through which the 
 blubber is to bo passed down. A hole about a foot 
 s<|uare is cut in the centre of this trough, to which 
 is fitted a long canvas shoot or hose, called a " lull," 
 the end of which is pointed into the tank receiving 
 the blubber. The lid of the trough is turned back, 
 and is supported underneath by chocks, so as to 
 form a table about three feet high, on which are 
 placed the blocks cut from the whale's tail. Behind 
 these blocks are stationed the boat-steerers, armed 
 with choppers, whoso province it is to chop up the 
 pieces into small portions, after they have passed 
 through the hands of the skinners. They arc then 
 thrown into the spek trough, passed down through 
 the kill, and so into the tanks. 
 
 The skeeman and king superintend its transit 
 below, and shift the lull from tank to tank as they 
 become full. One hand is stationed at the grind- 
 stone for the purj^ose of sharpening the different 
 instruments as required, the remainder of the men, 
 armed with pickies, are employed passing the 
 blubber to and from the various operators. 
 
 This work tends to make the ship in a more 
 filthy and greasy state than the operation of flinch- 
 ing, although there is nothing absolutely repugnant
 
 GO 
 
 Makmg ojfV' 
 
 or disgusting in witnessing the process. Indeed, 
 the upper deck, during the time the work is at its 
 height, presents a most animated and busy scene. 
 Forward, standing in a line across the forecastle 
 behind their blocks, are the boat-steerers, with 
 their continual and ceaseless chopping ; in front of 
 
 Fulmar Petrels, or " Mollies." 
 
 them are men busily employed with pickies, trans- 
 ferring the blubber (which has rather the appear- 
 ance of huge lumps of cheese) from the deck to the 
 spek trough ; whilst on each side are the skinners, 
 with their assistants, engaged in their individual 
 labours. All is life and activity, every one in a
 
 Fulmar Petrels. 61 
 
 good humour, and working with that cheerfulness 
 and energy which are the result of a contented and 
 happy disposition. 
 
 The whale skin, which is generally thrown o\^er- 
 board, is on board the " Arctic " carefully collected 
 and placed in a tank, by order of our kind and 
 thoughtful captain. On the arrival of the ship at 
 Lierely, it will be by him distributed amongst the 
 Es(|uiniaux inhabitants of that settlement, by whom 
 it is much relished and appreciated as an article of 
 food. It is also regarded as an excellent anti- 
 scorbutic. 
 
 During the proceedings of yesterday and to-day 
 the ship was literally surrounded by hundreds of 
 screaming and greedy fulmar petrels (called by the 
 whalers " mollies ") , clamouring and fighting over 
 the numerous pieces of kreng and blubber that 
 floated alongside and astern of the ship. These 
 greedy birds are at times so voracious as frequently 
 to alight on the whale to pick up some choice and 
 delicate morsel, whilst the men are actually em- 
 ployed on the fish in the duties of flinching. 
 
 We are now amongst loose pack ice, our large 
 water-hole of 3^esterday being filled with numberless 
 floes. 
 
 From the crow's nest there is no open water 
 visible, nothing but ice as far as the eye can reach. 
 To one having such limited experience in these 
 matters as myself, we appear to be hopelessly sur-
 
 G2 
 
 Surrounded by Ice. 
 
 rounded and completely jammed in by the ice, and 
 it seems almost impossible, without a change of 
 wind, that we can succeed in extricating ourselves 
 without recourse to cutting or blasting. Even the 
 captain anticipates a difficult and laborious passage 
 throuo'h. 
 
 Iceherir.
 
 Chapter V. 
 
 NAVIGATION OF DAVIS' STRAITS. 
 
 ^j UN DAY, May 25th.— This morning the 
 
 ^ ice closed in rapidly upon us^ and from 
 
 \iJ\ G A.M. until 9 p.m., when wo emerged 
 
 into tolerably open water, we have 
 
 been boring and pushing our way under steam and 
 sail through interminable fields of ice. At times we 
 were immovably fixed between heavy floes, making 
 no headway whatever, then again we were rushing 
 through young and brashy ice, splitting and driving 
 the fragments before and on each side of us. Occa- 
 sionally we came into contact with an unusually 
 heavy piece- with such violence as to cause the ship 
 to recoil several yards, when she again gathers way 
 and again charges her almost impenetrable foe. 
 
 As far as the eye could see was nothing but ice, 
 with here and there narrow streams or leads of 
 water; altogether a most desolate and cheerless 
 scene, the monotony of which was only relieved by
 
 ()\r Davis' Straits. 
 
 the numberless icebergs dotted around the horizon, 
 which imagination could almost fancy to be steep 
 cliffs and head-lauds surmouuted in some instances 
 by castles and towers. 
 
 To enhance the general wintry aspect, snow was 
 falling heavily during the forenoon, the deck and 
 
 
 rigging being completely covered ; the captain him- 
 self with his beard and whiskers so encrusted as to 
 resemble, with his portly person and jovial face, the 
 drawings of Father Christmas. We were nearly 
 sixteen hours before we succeeded in extricating 
 ourselves from - our icy prison, during which time
 
 Davis' Straits. 65 
 
 wc must have bored through at least fifty miles of 
 pack ice. Had we been suddenly deprived of our 
 steam-power we should have been in a most unplea- 
 sant and precarious predicament. A sailing-vessel 
 would have occupied as many days as we did hours 
 to get through. The general course that we steered 
 throughout the day was about due east (true). 
 
 This part of Davis^ Straits, commonly known to 
 the whalers as the S.W. fishing-ground, has gene- 
 rally had the unenviable reputation of being a dan- 
 gerous neighbourhood, and one which it is most 
 desirable for a ship to get quickly clear of. My 
 own experience, during the last ten days, though 
 we have had unusually fine weather, impressed me 
 strongly that it was a locality which should, as 
 much as possible, be avoided by vessels without 
 steam-power. 
 
 ■ From the time these waters were first navigated, 
 ships have invariably encountered great dangers 
 and the crews much hardship in this dreary vi- 
 cinity. 
 
 During Sir Martin Frobisher's third voyage to 
 these regions in the year 1578 it is related that the 
 barque " Dennis " of 100 tons " received such a 
 blow from a rock of yce, that she sunk down there- 
 with in sight of the whole fleet ;" after which fearful 
 catastrophe " a sudden terrible tempest arose from 
 the south-east, the ships weathering which became 
 encompassed on every side by yce, having left much 
 
 p
 
 ()G . Sir Martin Frobisher. 
 
 behind them^ tliorow which they had passed^ ami 
 finding more before them thorow which they could 
 not passe. Some of the ships, where they could find 
 a place more cleare of yco, and get a little berth of 
 sea roome, did take in their sayles, and there lay 
 adrift ; other some fastened and moored anker upon 
 a great island of yce ; and again some were so fast 
 shut up, and compassed in amongst an infinite 
 number of great countreys and islands of yce, that 
 they were fain to submit themselves and their ships 
 to the mercy of the unmerciful yce, and strengthened 
 the sides of their ships with junk of cables, beds, 
 masts, jDlanks, and such like, which being hanged 
 overboard, on the sidea of their ships, might better 
 defend them from the outrageous sway and strokes 
 of the said yce." One of their methods for boring 
 through fields of pack ice was decidedly primitive, 
 but it was then considered novel and ingenious, and 
 appears to have been successful. We are told, during 
 this same voyage of Sir Martin Frobisher, that the 
 " Judith," having parted company from her con- 
 sorts, was besot by the ice, " and when that by 
 heaving of the billowe, they were therewith like 
 to be brused in peces, they used to make the ship 
 fast to the most fii'me and broad pece of yce they 
 could find, and binding her nose fast thereunto 
 would fill all their sayles ; whereon, the wind, 
 having great power, ^would force forward the ship, 
 so the ship bearing before her the yce ; and so one
 
 Resolution Island. 67 
 
 yce^ driving forward another, should at length get 
 scope and sea roonie. Having bj this means, at 
 length put their enemies to flight, they occupyed 
 the cleare space for a prettye season, among sundry 
 mountains and Alpes of yce." (What would our 
 skilful whaling captains of the present time think of 
 this mode of forcing a passage through the ice ?) 
 
 Turning to later voyages. Parry, in 1821, was 
 closely beset by the ice in this same locality, con- 
 sisting of loose masses of broken floes, amongst 
 which his two ships the " Hecla " and " Fury " 
 drifted about for fourteen days before they were able 
 to extricate themselves. He speaks of the scene as 
 being " indescribably dreary and disagreeable." 
 
 The gallant Su* John Franklin also bears testi- 
 mony to the dangers to be apprehended by naviga- 
 tors in these waters, for whilst on his way out in 
 1819, to undertake in conjunction with Dr. Richard- 
 son and Sir George Back (then Mr. Back) that 
 memorable and perilous journey over laud to the 
 shores of the Polar Sea, he alludes to " that dan- 
 gerous, and' by all abhorred, island Resolution, in 
 the mouth of Hudson's Straits, near the rocky shores 
 of which, usually beset with heavy ice, fogs, and 
 irregular currents, the vessel narrowly escaped ship- 
 wreck;" and lastly, that distinguished oflicer. Ad- 
 miral Sir George Back, himself, when in command 
 of H.M.S. '' Terror" in 1836, previous to those 
 extraordinary and unprecedented perils for which
 
 f)8 Dangerous Navigation. 
 
 that disastrous voyage is memorable^ bears record 
 to the general abhorrence and fear with whicli this 
 part of Davis^ Straits is regarded, in the following- 
 words : " on approaching that universally detested 
 Resolution Island, with its dense fogs, and its whirl- 
 pools, tossing about masses of ice, sweeping the 
 ship among them and rendering her utterly un- 
 manageable/' It will thus be seen that all who 
 have had experience in these regions are unani- 
 mous in their opinions regarding this neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 Many of the bergs which we passed to-day were 
 of great magnitude, and are indeed " large coun- 
 treys and islands of yce," We saw none, however^, 
 that could compare in size with that one of gigantic 
 dimensions seen by Master John Davis (after whom 
 the Straits are named), who, on the 17th of July, 
 1586, " fell in with an enormous mass of ice, having 
 all the characteristics of land." He very wisely 
 declines entering into particulars as to its size and 
 height, lest, as he says, " he should not be believed." 
 Some notion of its magnitude, however, may be 
 formed from the fact that he sailed along it till the 
 30th ; and that while in its vicinity, " the cold was 
 extreme, the shrouds, ropes, and sails being frozen, 
 while a dense fosr loaded the air.'' 
 
 Tuesday, May 27th. — During the last two days 
 we have had a succession of very heavy snow 
 showers, and although the men were kept constantly
 
 Heavy Snow Showers. G9 
 
 employed in shovelling and clearing the snow away, 
 it was frequently lying a foot deep on the upper 
 deck, and the masts, yards, rigging, and ropes were 
 completely covered. 
 
 The general set of the ice, andconsequently of the 
 ship, has been to the southward. During the last 
 forty-eight hours it has been very strong, at least 
 seventy miles for the two days. To-day we are 
 struggling against a strong northerly wind; however, 
 " out of evil comes good,^^ and although we are now 
 labouring under the disadvantage of a head wind 
 and an adverse current, still we hope to derive some 
 benefit from it on our arrival in Melville Bay, as 
 it will cause the ice there to be loosened, thereby 
 affording us a safer and quicker passage through ; 
 but we must not anticipate, as a strong southerly 
 wind will again pack it tight and close. 
 
 We are making short tacks under reefed topsails 
 and foresail, working along the edge of the pack, 
 by which, in a great measure, we keep compara- 
 tively smooth water. The loose floes and bergs are 
 all drifting rapidly to the southward and westward 
 towards the main pack, and we congratulate our- 
 selves in having so easily escaped the danger of 
 being beset in a frozen prison. 
 
 We have quite given up the idea of capturing 
 any more fish in this neighbourhood, the whales 
 having all left for the north, where wo are now 
 doing: our best to follow them. When the wind
 
 70 Remarhable Iceberg. 
 
 subsides steam Tivill be raised and a course shaped 
 for Disco. 
 
 Thursday, May 29t]o. — We seem destined to 
 have nothing but head winds, accompanied, as 
 to-day, by a nasty chopping sea, having the effect 
 of making the old ship " pile drive " considerably, 
 so much so that it is with extreme difficulty I am 
 able to write, holding the inkstand with my dis- 
 engaged hand, everything having a tendency to 
 slide away to leeward. 
 
 Occasionally we come into contact with a stray 
 piece of ice, unobserved in consequence of its deep 
 flotation, which makes everything dance on the 
 table, and even spills the ink out of the stand. 
 Last night we passed a remarkable-looking berg, 
 which at first I mistook, and very naturally, for a 
 rock. It was of a dark brownish colour, rounded 
 on one side, over which the sea was dashing, and 
 rising to a height of about twelve or fourteen feet 
 out of the water. It was only when we approached 
 and were able to make a closer inspection that we 
 were convinced it was ice, discoloured probably 
 by the muddy water of some mountain stream. 
 One large berg which we passed shortly after had 
 two clear and distinct red lines, which met about 
 half-way towards its base in the form of a wedge, 
 having its apex at the bottom. This must also 
 have been caused by alluvial deposit. The number 
 of icebergs seen to-day is almost incredible, fully
 
 The Captain's '"'' Luchij Penny.'' 71 
 
 seven or eight hundred, and some of great magni- 
 tude. During the afternoon a little snow bunting 
 was caught, which, however, did not survive its 
 capture long. It had evidently come from some 
 distance, and was quite exhausted. 
 
 Our captain always carries about with him what 
 he calls a " lucky penny," one of those huge coins 
 in circulation in the reign of George III. With 
 this, from the first thing in the morning until the 
 last thing at night, whether on deck or below, he is 
 always anxious to toss with the doctor for the best 
 of five successive guesses. It is most amusing to 
 watch the cunning manner in which our worthy 
 skipper puts his coin down, and the delight beam- 
 ing on his jolly countenance when he succeeds in 
 winning. As a rule they toss for nothing but their 
 own amusement, but in the evening it is generally 
 for who shall fetch the plates, &c., for our supper, 
 the water for our toddy, or the glasses for our grog. 
 In the evening they amuse themselves with cards, 
 playing rather a noisy game, peculiar, I presume, to 
 whalers, called " Scratch the ten," whose particular 
 feature appears to be a grand fight as to which shall 
 obtain possession of the ten of trumps. 
 
 I remained up, watching the sun as it slowly 
 disappeared below the N.W. horizon, sinking gra- 
 dually and majestically. It was past ton before its 
 upper limb was out of sight, but such a short dis- 
 tance was it below the horizon that it was really
 
 72 The Rollimj Pack. 
 
 only a matter of form that we had a candle lighted in 
 the cabin^ and when I retired to bed at midnight there 
 was sufficient light in my little cabin to read by. 
 
 Friday, May dOth. — The wind having gone 
 down^ the engines are once more brought into 
 j)lay, and we are again propelled by the " brass 
 topsail." We are still hugging the ice, and have 
 passed through various deep bights along the edge 
 of the main pack, and through several broad streams 
 of ice. The late northerly winds having caused a 
 heavy swell to arise, the heaving, rolling pack 
 through which we steamed had a most indescribable 
 appearance, bringing vividly to my imagination the 
 dangers encountered by the little " Fox " whilst 
 under the command of Sir Leopold McClintock, 
 when she successfully steamed out of the rolling 
 pack after having undergone the vicissitudes of an 
 Arctic winter. One must actually experience the 
 dangers of Arctic navigation before they can be 
 realized. Several of the floes that we passed to-day 
 were piled up with masses of hummocky ice, formed 
 in solid square and cubic blocks, resting in an 
 uneven and confused manner one on the other, and 
 presenting in places, varied brilliant tints of blue. 
 
 These hummocks are formed by the action of one 
 floe against another, pressing and squeezing off by 
 their ponderous weight these fragments which rest 
 on the floe where they have fallen. 
 
 It is most interesting to watch from the forecastle 
 the ship battling, as it were, with the ice^ one
 
 Dangerous Ice Floes. 73 
 
 moment striking a floe stem on^ causing the ship to 
 come to a dead stop^ at another making a cannon 
 from one piece and striking a second on her oppo- 
 site bow, which will rebound with such force as to 
 make the ship's head swerve from fom* to six 
 points ; again, there are other pieces which are 
 pressed down by the weight of the ship's bow, and 
 which, when released from the pressure, rise rapidly 
 and suddenly in most unexpected directions. Great 
 care must be taken to fend oft' these latter pieces by 
 means of long poles, as they spring up in the water 
 to such a height, and with such velocity, that they 
 have occasionally been known to rise under one of 
 the boats, whilst suspended at the davits, completely 
 smashing it. Several large icebergs were passed, 
 one, the height of which we estimated at over four 
 hundred feet. By way of making us feel easy and 
 comfortable amongst so many of these huge masses 
 of ice, the captain beguiles the time by recounting 
 to us a few of his own personal experiences during 
 his long and arduous services in these regions. 
 Some of these 1 will attempt to relate. 
 
 Whilst serving as harpooneer on board a whaler 
 (in much about the same position in Davis' Straits 
 as wo are to-day), his ship was running under 
 reefed topsails and foresail at the rate of ten knots 
 an hour before a strong southerly gale, snow falling 
 heavily, and the weather, to use a seaman's expres- 
 sion, as thick as pea-soup. The men were em- 
 ployed in getting the boats in-board, and securing
 
 74 Perils of Arctic Navigation. 
 
 them from the heavy and angry white-topped 
 waves that came curling up astern and on each 
 quarter^ apparently eager to overtake and swallow 
 up the little vessel that was flying in mad career 
 along their crests. Suddenly a huge mountain of 
 ice was seen ahead. To have struck it would have 
 been total destruction to the little craft, and death 
 in all its horrors to those on board. " Hard a-port" 
 was yelled in agonized tones from the look-out on 
 the forecastle, " hard a-port'^ was echoed along the 
 deck, and answered quickly and smartly by the 
 ever- watchful and ready helmsman. To answer 
 and to act was the work of a moment, a breathless 
 suspense for all on board, and amidst the sighing 
 of the wind, the creaking of the masts, and the 
 rattling of the blocks and cordage, accompanied by 
 a far more fearful and dreadful sound, namely, that 
 of the sea dashing over the berg, the little ship, 
 obedient to her helm, flew up to the wind, and as 
 she did so, the eddy and the back-water from the 
 lumbering mass of ice nearly threw her upon her 
 beam ends to windward. She quickly righted, and 
 as the wind again caught her sails, her lee yard- 
 arms scraped along a steep and precipitous berg, 
 causing fragments to break oS", which actually fell 
 upon the ship's deck. In another moment they 
 were clear — and saved ! the enemy with whom they 
 had had so close a death-struggle lost to sight in 
 the thick snow and foam astern. 
 
 In addition to these perils, which must neces-
 
 Dangers of the IVhale Fisher i/. 75 
 
 sarily be encountered by all vrho navigate these 
 waters^ the whalers have also to undergo the dan- 
 gers which must constantly be met with whilst 
 engaged in their vocation. As the class of acci- 
 dents of which the following is a specimen is^ I am 
 sorry to say, not of unfrequent occurrence, I will 
 relate it. A whale had been struck on the east 
 side of Baffin's Bay, but the line having carried 
 away, it succeeded in effecting its escape, carrying, 
 however, the two harpoons, not very pleasant 
 souvenirs, which remained embedded in its flesh. 
 By a curious coincidence, thB same fish was fallen 
 in with, some days subsequently, by the same ship, 
 on the west side of the bay. Boats were imme- 
 diately despatched for the purpose of securing their 
 prize ; but this was not easfiy accomplished. On 
 the approach of the first boat the harpooneer fired 
 and got fast, and was in the act of putting in the 
 hand harpoon, when the fish, with a convulsive 
 efibrt, struck the boat a blow with its mighty and 
 ponderous tail, smashing it into a thousand pieces, 
 and precipitating the crew into the water. The 
 unfortunate harpooneer was no more seen, having 
 probably been entangled by the line and taken 
 down. The remainder of the crew, with the ex- 
 ception of one, were picked up by the other boats ; 
 the one exception had succeeded in swimming to a 
 piece of ice, but in consequence of exhaustion and 
 numbness caused by excessive cold, was unable to 
 raise himself on it. He would shortly have
 
 ^6 Anecdotes of the Whale Fishery. 
 
 perished had not one of the men, mistaking liim 
 for a seal, pointed him out to his companions. He 
 was at once taken on board and restoratives ad- 
 ministered, but it was many days before he re- 
 covered from the effects of his cold bath. When 
 picked up his clothes were frozen hard on his body. 
 The whale, the cause of all these misfortunes, was 
 eventually killed, wheu the harpoons \vith which he 
 had been struck on the east side were recovered. 
 
 Some accidents occur in whaling which savour 
 more of the ridiculous. One man, though a good 
 and successful harpooneer, could never be pre- 
 vailed upon to approach a fast fish for the purpose 
 of killing it, always exhibiting great timidity when 
 ordered upon this service. On one occasion, 
 nothing would induce this individual to pull along- 
 side the whale in his boat and administer the death- 
 thrust. He was, in consequence, upbraided by the 
 other harpooneers for his cowardice. " What,'^ 
 said the second mate, " are you afeered for the 
 fish ? " — " No,'^ answered the timid harpooneer, 
 " but I am afeered for myself.^' And on another 
 occasion, the same individual, whilst pulling towards 
 a fish, was hailed by the captain from the crow's 
 nest, and told " to keep off her eje" meaning to 
 pull up behind the whale, so as to be unobserved. 
 " Ay, ay," said our friend, " but Fll keep off the 
 beggar's tail;" and nothing would induce him to 
 go near that dangerous appendage of their for- 
 midable prey.
 
 Crossing the Arctic Circle. 77 
 
 Listening to these and other stones of the whale 
 fishery, and gaining an insight into the mysteries of 
 ice navigation, the days pass quickly and pleasantly ; 
 seldom one passing without some quaint remark or 
 odd proceeding on the part of some of my mess- 
 mates. Our meals afford many opportunities for 
 their witticisms ; and if I request that I may be 
 served with a piece of beef not quite a pound in 
 weight, it is immediately remarked that the cap- 
 tain, as I am always called, is fond of " Wax- 
 hallers." ' At dinner to-day we indulged in the 
 luxury of green peas, very large and very hard ; 
 but I found that the effort of picking them off the 
 plate with a '^two-pronged steel fork'' (the only 
 kind we have on board) required so much patience 
 and dexterity, and was withal of such a tantalizing 
 nature, that it hardly compensated for the exertion 
 required to ensure success. 
 
 Saturday, May 31st. — To-day we crossed the 
 Arctic circle. Formerly it was customary on board 
 whale ships to perform a ceremony somewhat simi- 
 lar to that still in vogue on board most men-of-war 
 and other ships when crossing the equator. Since 
 the introduction of steamers into this trade, the 
 practice, like many others, has gone completely out 
 of fashion. 
 
 ^ Vauxliall Gardens Averc at one time famous for tlie ex- 
 tremely thin slices of liam and beef which used to be supplied 
 to those i-equiring refreshments.
 
 78 Letters from England. 
 
 In the forenoon we observed and communicated 
 with the " Erik/^ bound, like ourselves, for Lievely, 
 as the Danish settlement on the south end of the 
 island of Disco is called. 
 
 As this ship had left Dundee three or four days 
 subsequent to our departure, we had the pleasure, 
 through the kindness of her commander, of receiv- 
 ing letters from England. We also heard that, 
 with the exception of ourselves, the "Narwhal" 
 was the only vessel that had succeeded in getting 
 any fish, she having been fortunate enough to ob- 
 tain two. 
 
 Our ship has assumed quite a different appear- 
 ance, the crew for the last two days having been 
 actively employed in scrubbing the paint work and 
 cleaning the upper deck generally. 
 
 The contrast is marvellous ! 
 
 I 
 
 Cape Wai-render.
 
 Chapter Yl. 
 
 DISCO. 
 
 UNDAY, June 1st, saw us liammering 
 awajj under cloublc-i-eefed topsails, 
 against a strong northerly gale, making 
 the ship in consequence very li^'ely and 
 very uncomfortable. By noon, however, it veered 
 round to the westward, enabling us to lay a course 
 for Disco. 
 
 The forenoon was rendered remarkable by the 
 enormous number of icebergs, all of large dimen- 
 sions, that we passed, most of them aground, off 
 Rifkol. The captain estimated the number seen 
 in four hours at about three thousand, and I should 
 really be afraid to say whether he was under or over 
 the mark. We passed within a very short distance 
 of some of these huge islands of ice, their crests 
 towering considerably over our mast-heads, and 
 against the sides of which the sea was dashing with 
 uncontrolled fury. Many of these bergs were fully
 
 80 Disco. 
 
 a mile in cii'cumfercnce^ and from three to four 
 hundred feet in height. At half-past five we passed 
 the Whale Fish Islands^ so named from the supposed 
 resemblance that they bear to the head and back of 
 enormous whales lying on the surface of the water. 
 They are also called the Kron-Prins Islands. 
 
 Formerly a settlement was established on one of 
 these ; but it has, I believe, of late years been aban- 
 doned. 
 
 The high land of Disco, which is a little over 
 twenty miles from these islands, rose rugged and 
 bleak, the summit of the hills being covered with a 
 deep and impervious mantle of snow. Shortly after 
 7 P.M., passing close to the rocks on the south side, 
 we shortened sail and steamed into the snug har- 
 bour of Lievely, anchoring off the picturesque little 
 settlement where the Chief Inspector of North 
 Greenland resides, an oiBBcer holding his commission 
 direct from the King of Denmark. On the beach, 
 on the north side as we entered, were lying the 
 remains of the English whaler " Wildfire,'^ which 
 had been run on shore some years previously, after 
 having sustained severe ^'nips" in Baffin^s Bay. 
 She is now a complete wreck. It was not long- 
 before several boats full of Esquimaux came along- 
 side, all anxious to troch, or barter. Slippers and 
 tobacco-pouches made of sealskin were the prin- 
 cipal articles brought off", for which were sought in 
 exchange powder, shot, coffee, shirts, and trowsers. 
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 \\m
 
 I
 
 Visit to the Inspector. 81 
 
 At about eight o'clock the captain, doctor, and 
 myself went on shore, and were received on land- 
 ing (an honour I little expected) by his Excellency 
 the Inspector, attired in a uniform coat with 
 shoulder-straps, all very gorgeous; but his extre- 
 mities were encased in a pair of seahldn trowsers, 
 affording a curious contrast. 
 
 After the ceremony of introduction had been 
 gone through, he informed me that he had received 
 notice of my intended visit from the captain of the 
 " Esquimaux/' who had called in some few days 
 previously. We were then conducted to his house, 
 and introduced to his wife, Mrs. Smith, and her 
 sister. After spending a pleasant and quiet even- 
 ing, we bade our hospitable entertainers good night, 
 and having visited a couple of Esquimaux habita- 
 tions, which did not favourably impress me with a 
 great idea of either comfort or cleanliness, returned 
 on board at half-past twelve, the sun at this time 
 shining brightly, and making it appear almost un- 
 natural to think of going to bed; but exhausted 
 nature must be attended to. From Mr. Smith we 
 received the first intelligence of the safety of a 
 portion of the crew of the U.S. exploring ship 
 " Polaris," who under Tyson had made that extra- 
 ordinary and perilous drift on the ice of upwards of 
 a thousand miles. The news had been brought 
 from England by the "Esquimaux,^' which ship had 
 left Dundee ten days after our departure. 
 
 G
 
 82 A7i Esquimaux Dance. 
 
 Monday, June 2nd. — The "Erik" arrived early 
 this morning, having been delayed outside in con- 
 sequence of the strong wind. I went on shore in 
 the morning with my artificial horizon, to try and 
 get sights, but a heavy snow-storm coming on, 
 effectually obscured the sun and precluded all obser- 
 vations. In the afternoon, accompanied by his 
 Excellency, we walked over the settlement, and 
 called upon Mr. Larsen, the Governor, who is a 
 Dane, and subordinate to the Inspector. In the 
 evening an Esquimaux dance was got up for our 
 special edification, to which we all adjourned at 
 about ten o'clock. It was held in a store-house, 
 the casks and barrels having been placed outside 
 for the purpose. The dimensions of this extem- 
 porized ball-room were about 18 feet long by 12 
 broad and 6 high ! Into it were crammed our 
 party, consisting of nine, about thirty Esquimaux, 
 and about twice that number of men from the two 
 whalers. The space left for dancing was, as may 
 ba imagined, very limited. The festivities com- 
 menced with a true native dance, the performers 
 being four men, with an equal number of women ; 
 the band, a rusty old fiddle played by an Esqui- 
 maux. The dance itself appeared to be a compound 
 of a quadrille and double shuffle, interspersed with 
 a few figures somewhat similar to those practised by 
 the South Sea Islanders. 
 
 The seamen from the ships, and even some of our
 
 Godhavn or Lievely. 83 
 
 own party, eventually took a prominent part in the 
 evening's entertainment, acquitting themselves with 
 an amount of energy and grace, (?) accoutred as 
 they were in heavy sea boots, that I was little pre- 
 pared to witness. What with the closeness of the 
 apartment and the perfume exhaled by the dancers, 
 we were not sorry to leave the ball-room and reach 
 the open air, though the proceedings did not termi- 
 nate until a very late, or very early hour. 
 
 The settlement of Godhavn (Good Harbour), or, 
 as it is generally called, Lievely, is one of those 
 numerous but small colonies established by the 
 Danish Government along the west coast of Green- 
 land, whence they obtain a large supply of oil and 
 skins, a trade over which they enjoy a strict mono- 
 poly. Each of these settlements is presided over 
 by a Governor, or Chief Trader. These officers are 
 Danes, and are immediately under the rule of the 
 Inspector, who here reigns supreme, and whose 
 word is law. The west coast is divided into two 
 divisions, north and south, each of which is under 
 the superintendence of an Inspector. Lievely comes 
 under the charge of the Inspector of the Northern 
 Division, who so far honours the place as to make it 
 his residence. 
 
 The actual settlement itself consists of some half- 
 dozen wooden houses, a church, and a few native 
 dwellings of primitive construction, which might be 
 more appropriately termed hovels.
 
 84 The Settlement of Lievehj. 
 
 The two principal houses are those belonging to 
 the Inspector and" Governor, They arc neat-looking 
 edifices, their interiors being clean and comfortable, 
 denoting in each instance the presence of the fair 
 sex. Next in importance to the Governor is the 
 schoolmaster, who is about five-sixths Dane and 
 one-sixth Esquimaux. In addition to his scholastic 
 duties, he also ofiiciates on Sundays in the little 
 church, except on the occasion of the annual visit of 
 the priest, who resides in another settlement, but 
 who remains with them for five or six weeks every 
 3^ear. The church is a quaint little wooden building, 
 having a small spire, and rejoicing ih the possession 
 of a bell ! It contains about sixty sittings, has a 
 small altar at its west end, and a pulpit in a corner 
 at the side, giving one the idea that it had been 
 placed in that position to be out of the way. I 
 noticed a small concertina, to the strains of which 
 the singing is conducted. Having no stove or fire- 
 place of any description, it is not much frequented 
 as a place of worship during the winter. Divine 
 service during those cold months is held in the 
 school-house, which is about half the size of the 
 church, and is heated by means of a stove. The 
 remaining buildings comprise the smithy, the 
 cooperage, and the brewery, besides a long stone 
 store-house on the opposite side of the harbour, 
 containing the provisions and stores sent out by 
 the American Government for the use of the 
 " Polaris."
 
 Native Dwellmg- Places. 85 
 
 The dwelling-places of the natives are most 
 pleasing when viewed from the outside, and the 
 greater the distance off the better. They are built 
 chiefly of stone and turf, the only light during the 
 summer months being that admitted through win- 
 dows composed of the serous membrane of the 
 intestines of the seal. 
 
 If sufficiently brave to encounter the offensive 
 stench which pervades everything, as to risk a visit 
 to the interior, one passes through a long narrow 
 entrance, having almost to crawl upon hands and 
 feet,- emerging into a small room, not unlike the 
 cabins on board very small and ill-found merchant 
 ships, in which is the stove, the everlasting lamp, 
 and the long bench or shelf on which they sit dur- 
 ing the day, and on which, wrapped up in their 
 skins, they sleep during the night. The number 
 of people residing in one of these houses may pro- 
 bably amount to twenty or thirty of both sexes and 
 all ages. 
 
 During the winter, when every aperture is care- 
 fully closed, and the fire and lamps kept burning- 
 day and night, the state of the interior may be better 
 imagined than described, as the Esquimaux are 
 notorious for being particularly dirty and filthy in 
 their habits; in addition to which, the rotten and 
 stinking pieces of seal and other animals that are 
 left strewed about must largely contribute to the 
 offensive stench that pervades their habitations.
 
 86 The Esquimaux. 
 
 The Esquimaux are a strong sturdy race, closely 
 resembling in appearance the natives of Northern 
 China. They have the same high check-bones and 
 oblique-shaped eyes as the inhabitants of the Celes- 
 tial Empire, but with thicker lips, and more full in 
 the face. 
 
 They seem a good-tempered merry set of people, 
 though decidedly deficient in the virtue of grati- 
 tude ; taking things as a matter of course that may 
 be given to them, and asking for things, no matter 
 of what value, that take their fancy. The idea of 
 giving anything in exchange is, with them, quite 
 a visionary one. 
 
 This was strongly exemplified on board the 
 " Arctic,^^ as the good nature of our worthy captain 
 made him load all that came off to the ship with 
 cheese, pork, bread, soap (I do not think the latter, 
 though readily accepted, is in great requisition), 
 and various other articles, for which he received no 
 thanks whatever. Indeed, some went so far as to 
 complain of others receiving more than themselves, 
 and requesting therefore a further supply. The 
 women are by no means comely, the prettiest part 
 being certainly their costume, which is most pic- 
 turesque. Their mode of doing the hair, which is 
 tied up in a knot on the top of the head, is not pre- 
 possessing. They are very fond of any ornaments 
 or outward show; beads and cheap jewellery are 
 therefore in great demand. They seem very in-
 
 Native Traditmis. 87 
 
 dustrious, especially during our stay -, when their 
 time was fully occupied in making slippers, pouches, 
 &c., from the skin of the seal. 
 
 It is most interesting to observe the skill and 
 dexterity with which the men manage their Imyaks, 
 as their swift and fairy-like canoes are called, and 
 the expert manner with which they use the harpoon. 
 I saw one transfix a loom (guillemot) after a short 
 chase, at the distance of twenty feet. 
 
 Disco, at the south-west extremity of which is 
 situated the settlement of Godhavn, is a large island 
 separated from the mainland of Greenland by a 
 narrow passage, from three to four miles in breadth, 
 called the Waygat. The traditions of the Esqui- 
 maux go so far as to say that it had originally been 
 joined to the mainland, but that many centm'ies 
 ago it had been broken off and towed to its present 
 situation by a potent and influential angekok, or 
 priest. They even go so far as to assert that the 
 hole to which the tow-rope was fastened is the pre- 
 sent harbour of Lievely. It certainly has the ap- 
 pearance of a round basin, being completely land- 
 locked. Should their legends be true, it must have 
 required a very powerful priest to transport such 
 a large piece of laud the distance indicated, its 
 original site, according to the tradition, being close 
 to BaaFs Eiver, about three hundred miles to the 
 southward. 
 
 The hills and cliffs of Disco, bold, rugged, and
 
 88 Disco. 
 
 precipitous, are composed of mctamorphic rock, 
 and rise in some places to an altitude of over three 
 thousand feet above the level of the sea. The 
 scenery is grand and majestic, and the effect is 
 enhanced by the strong contrast afforded between 
 the black rocks and their snowy mantle. In con- 
 sequence of the great height of the land, rising ab- 
 ruptly, as it were, out of the sea, its distance is 
 most deceiving when approaching from seaward. 
 This deceptive appearance in these regions is fre- 
 quently noticed by navigators, and fully accounts 
 for the report brought to Norway by an old Nor- 
 wegian skipper, or " famous sea-cock," as he is 
 styled by the old chroniclers three hundred years 
 ago, who, after undergoing many perils and hard- 
 ships on his passage across to the east coast of 
 Greenland, after sighting the land, seemed unable 
 to approach, though the ship was steering directly 
 towards it, and making fair progress through the 
 water. At last, relinquishing all further attempts 
 as useless, this ^'famous sea-cock" bore up and 
 returned to Norway, reporting that his ship, after 
 sighting the land, had been unable to advance in 
 consequence of some hidden loadstone, which effec- 
 tually barred his onward course. 
 
 Tuesday, June Zrd. — It was the captain^s inten-* 
 tion to have sailed this morning', but it had to be 
 relinquished in consequence of a heavy snow-storm, 
 the weather being too thick to proceed with any 
 degree of safety. At 1 p. m., as it was still snowing
 
 A71 Excursion Inland. 89 
 
 hard, and there was therefore no prospect of our de- 
 parture, I induced the doctor to accompany me on 
 shore for a walk, my object being to proceed a little 
 distance from the settlement and then ascend one 
 of the hills in its vicinity. Arming* myself with a 
 long boat-hook staff, to serve the purpose of an 
 alpenstock, and the doctor taking with him his 
 gun, we left the ship. We called at the Governor's 
 house on landing, to leave some letters, and he 
 attempted to dissuade us from our purpose, or, if 
 we were resolved upon going, at least to take a 
 guide ; but being unable to procure the services of 
 one, he kindly oflPered to accompany us as far as 
 the mouth of the Red River, about a mile from the 
 settlement, an offer which we gladly accepted. 
 
 Arriving at this place, he told us if we kept to 
 the banks of the river we should be perfectly safe, 
 as we could always retrace our footsteps, and bid- 
 ding us good-bye turned homewards. 
 
 We continued for some little way skirting the 
 edge of this small stream, though gradually ascend- 
 ing, until we had attained the estimated height of 
 seven or eight hundred feet, when our attention 
 was attracted by the rushing of water, and we ob- 
 served away to our right a cascade descending over 
 the rocks, evidently the source of the river along 
 whose banks we had been toiling, whilst a deep and 
 sombre-looking ravine branched away to the left. 
 
 As it was impossible to cross this ravine, the 
 sides of which were not only precipitous, but in
 
 90 A7i Excursion Inland. 
 
 many places overhanging, we followed its direction 
 to the left^ continuing the ascent, which had now 
 become rather laborious on account of the extreme 
 steepness and the depth of the snow. 
 
 It was also necessary to use great caution, as we 
 would frequently emerge on the very brink of the 
 chasm, the snow being so dense as to render it im- 
 possible to see more than ten or twenty feet ahead. 
 Had we only enjoyed clear weather, the scenery 
 around us must indeed have been grand ; as it was, 
 the black and to us unfathomable yawning abyss, 
 on the edge of which we would often unconsciously 
 find ourselves, presented a sublime and terrible 
 grandeur, such as I have rarely witnessed. 
 
 My companion, with more sense than myself, 
 pointed out the insane folly of advancing any fur- 
 ther, observing, and very rightly, that in such thick 
 weather there was no inducement to proceed, and 
 that in all probability we should be unable to find 
 our way back. I attempted to comfort him by 
 saying that I had brought my pocket compass with 
 me, and that we were therefore perfectly safe on 
 that score, withholding the fact that we had taken a 
 circuitous route, and that our compass bearings 
 were, therefore, of no avail. 
 
 By half-past four, we felt from the force of the 
 wind, that we had reached the summit of a hill, 
 whose height we estimated, though of course very 
 roughly, at over two thousand feet. 
 
 Deeming it imprudent, on account of the incle-
 
 A Perilous Desce?it. 91 
 
 ment state of tlio weather, to proceed any further, 
 we turned to retrace our steps, but the snow was 
 so thick that in a little time we could not see our 
 tracks, and eventually lost ourselves. Affairs began 
 to look serious as far as getting back that night was 
 concerned ; though we comforted ourselves by the 
 knowledge that we had wherewithal to sustain 
 nature until the snow ceased, the doctor having 
 taken the precaution of putting a couple of biscuits 
 in his pocket, and each of us being provided with 
 a small flask containing brandy and water. 
 
 Knowing that we had come with the wind at our 
 backs, and keeping* close together for better security, 
 we shaped a course head to wind. 
 
 The snow beating into our faces was positively 
 blinding, making our eyes sorely ache. As it fell 
 it froze upon our faces and clothes, and we were 
 soon a complete mass of ice, though the exercise of 
 walking, and the exertion constantly necessary to 
 prevent ourselves from tumbling, kept us in a per- 
 fect glow of heat. 
 
 On one occasion I gave myself up for lost. 
 Everything around was perfectly white, and it was 
 impossible to say whether we were walking on a 
 level piece of ground or on a steep decline. Sud- 
 denly my feet slipped, and in an instant I was 
 sliding down the frozen surface of what I imagined 
 to be the side of a glacier, which I was convinced 
 would take me to the edge of the ravine and pre- 
 cipitate me into the gaping gulf beneath. I felt
 
 92 More Mishaps. 
 
 myself gradually g-aining* a greater velocity as I de- 
 scended, when, providentially coming to a soft snow 
 drift, I succeeded in driving my alpenstock deep 
 into the snow, thus effectually stopping my rapid 
 and headlong career. Looking round, to my horror 
 I perceived the doctor directly in my wake, coming 
 down at great speed ; if he touched me I felt cer- 
 tain that we must both go, and I shuddered to 
 think of the fate awaiting us. He was, however, 
 like myself, enabled to dig his heels into the snow 
 drift and was thus stopped. Patting the best face 
 on the matter, wo laughed heartily at our misad- 
 venture, and pushed on again head to wind. 
 
 Our mishaps were endless. Getting on to a nice 
 firm piece, on which I was in hopes we should make 
 good progress, I hailed my companion to follow, 
 observing that it was " a famous bit for walking on." 
 Hardly were the words out of my mouth before I 
 plunged over head and ears into a drift, the doctor 
 tumbling in after me. Extricating ourselves as 
 best we could, we continued the descent, but for 
 upwards of an hour we were completely lost, until 
 by great good luck we suddenly emerged on the 
 brink of the chasm along which we had ascended ; 
 and then we knew our troubles were at an end, as 
 from thence we could with ease retrace our steps, 
 ultimately reaching the settlement at about six 
 o'clock ; and hastening on board we were soon en- 
 joying the luxury of a cup of hot tea and a change 
 of clothino'. '
 
 Departure from Lievely. 93 
 
 The Veatlier having cleared a little, the captain 
 deternjined upon proceeding to sea, and having 
 bidden farewell to our kind friends at Lievely, we 
 were shortly after eight o'clock steaming out of the 
 harbour, bound, to my great satisfaction, for the 
 north. 
 
 During the afternoon, whilst walking along the 
 beach on our return journey, we heard what sounded 
 to us like the report of artillery. This we attri- 
 buted to the rending and breaking up of icebergs, 
 many of which were aground within a quarter of a 
 mile of the shore. The sound closely resembles 
 that produced by the discharge of heavy ordnance. 
 
 Esquimaux Dog.
 
 Chapter VII. 
 
 UPERNIVIK AXD ^lELYILLE BAY. 
 
 HJJRSDAY, Junebth. — Snow has fallen 
 without intermission during the last 
 forty-eight hours ; but this does not in 
 any way impede our progress. Yes- 
 terday, at noon^ we passed Omenak fiord, a famous 
 place for icebergs, which, having been discharged 
 from the glaciers scattered on both sides, accumu- 
 late at its entrance. The Danish settlement of 
 Omenak is some little distance up the fiord. After 
 threading our way through intricate passages caused 
 by these floating ice-islands, on some of which, in 
 consequence of the thick weather that prevailed, we 
 were nearly coming to grief, only avoiding collision 
 by extreme watchfulness and caution, we passed 
 Swarte-huk ; ^ and black enough appeared the land 
 during the few short glimpses that we obtained. 
 It was most tantalizing our being unable to enjoy 
 what must really be grand and interesting scenery ; 
 
 1 Black Cape.
 
 Arrival at Upernivik. 95 
 
 but a thick snow storm made this impossible. 
 Early in the morning we passed several islets^ and at 
 about eight o'clock wo made fast with an ice anchor 
 to the land ice off the island of (Jpernivik, one of 
 a group named by Baffin, during his remarkable 
 voyage in 161^ round the bay which bears his 
 name, the Vrouw or Woman Islands. The " Erik " 
 followed soon after, making fast to a berg aground 
 off the settlement. 
 
 Several Esquimaux kept pace in their swiftly 
 gliding hayalhS as we steamed in ; and it was sur- 
 prising to witness the velocity with which these 
 frail-looking barks were propelled by their skilful 
 occupants, who, with their long shaggy and un- 
 kempt locks falling over their slioulders, and their 
 general wild and excessively dirty appearance, were 
 more like some amphibious animals than human 
 beings. Immediately the ship was secured we went 
 on shore for the purpose of paying our respects to 
 the Governor and Chief Trader, Dr. Rudolph, by 
 whom we were most cordially received and hospi- 
 tably entertained. What appeared to cause the 
 good doctor the greatest annoyance was our in- 
 capacity (though some of our party acquitted them- 
 selves tolerably well), to keep perpetually drinking 
 port wine, sherry, rum, brandy, beer, and absinthe, 
 all of which he insisted upon om' partaking in an 
 indiscriminate manner; and had we remained on 
 shore longer than we did, the consequences would 
 undoubtedly have been disastrous. No European
 
 96 Receipt of European News. 
 
 intelligence had been received at Upernivik for 
 nearly twelve montlis, so that the finding of Living- 
 stone, the death of Napoleon, and the abdication of 
 the King of Spain were all news to Dr. Rudolph, 
 and these, with all other events of recent occurrence 
 that we could remember, were poured into his will- 
 ing ears. When informed of the death of Napoleon, 
 his first exclamation, to our surprise, was, " What 
 will my blacksmith say ? " This man, it appears, 
 who is a Dane, was an ardent and enthusiastic ad- 
 mirer of the late ex-Einperor of the French, whom 
 he regarded as the first man of the age. The doc- 
 tor immediately sent for the blacksmith, a fine stal- 
 wart smoke-begrimed looking man, to whom, after 
 the ceremony of shaking hands and drinking port 
 wine (it was about 9 a.m.) with the whole party had 
 been gone through, he imparted the news of the 
 death of the man he all but worshipped. I never 
 saw change come over a man so quickly; he stared, 
 e\'idently doubting his own senses, and when the 
 words were repeated, the poor man burst into tears 
 and rushed out of the room. When first seen he 
 was in excellent spirits. 
 
 We walked over the settlement and visited two 
 or three native dwelling-places, which resemble in 
 every particular those at Lievely. The dogs did 
 not seem to be so large or so strong as those of 
 Disco, but they have the same wolfish appearance 
 peculiar to the dog of these regions.
 
 Native Dogs. 97 
 
 I had a conversation with, the Governor rco-ardincr 
 the chance of some of these animals being required 
 in the ensuing year for an exploring expedition to 
 the north. He informed me that in all probability 
 enough could be provided at this settlement, though 
 their value of late years had considerably increased. 
 Captain Hall, of the " Polaris/' had purchased 
 twenty of these dogs, on his way to Smith's Sound, 
 at exorbitant prices ; some of the animals could not 
 be obtained, though the sum of 100 dollars was 
 offered for each dog. 
 
 At half-past 4 p.m.^ having taken leave of the 
 Governor, whom we honoured with a salute from 
 seven of our harpoon guns, we got under weigh, 
 and, accompanied by the " Erik," shaped a course 
 through the thickly-clustered group of islands which 
 are everywhere dotted about in this neighbourhood. 
 Just as we were losing sight of the settlement, we 
 noticed a puff of white smoke, near the flag-stafl[* 
 from which the Danish ensign was displayed, then 
 another and another, followed by a mild report, 
 which informed us that our salute had been acknow- 
 ledged and returned by three guns. It was more 
 than probable that these guns, with their ammuni- 
 tion, had to be dug out from some little nook or 
 corner in an out-of-the-way store-house. 
 
 We followed in the wake of our consort, whose 
 experienced commander, being well acquainted with 
 the intricacies of the navio-ation through these
 
 98 Ice Anchors. 
 
 islands, had volunteered to lead the way, until 
 shortly after 7 p.m., when a thick fog overtaking- 
 uSj compelled us to stop, each ship making fast 
 with three ice-anchors to some land-ice in a bay of 
 one of these islands. 
 
 We were within half a mile of the shore, whose 
 precipitous cliiTs rose up to a height of eight hun- 
 dred or one thousand feet. 
 
 The ice on which the men had to step to get the 
 anchors to the fixed ice beyond was of a very soft 
 and treacherous nature, and many were the im- 
 mersions that took place whilst carrying out the 
 necessary duties of securing the ship. A dip in 
 the water with the temperature two or three degrees 
 below the freezing point is no joke ; yet all laughed 
 heartily when an unfortunate individual went 
 through, and even the victim himself, putting the 
 best face on the matter, seemed to enjoy the fun as 
 much as any one. 
 
 In leaving Upemivik, we quite bid farewell to 
 the outward world. It is the last place at which 
 we have an opportunity of leaving letters for Eng- 
 land, and, with the exception of occasionally meet- 
 ing a whaler, it is the last place at which we shall 
 see and converse with civilized beings. 
 
 Upcrnivik is the most northern settlement of any 
 importance on the coast of Greenland^ and is in 
 fact the emporium of all the others in its vicinity. 
 Tesuisok, Kingitok, and Susak, are the only ones to
 
 Upernivih. 99 
 
 the northward, and these are all situated in tlie 
 Woman group. 
 
 The Governor, Dr. Rudolph, who has resided in 
 Greenland for thirty-five years, collects the produce 
 of oil and skins from the different settlements, 
 rendering an account of everything to the Inspector 
 of the J^orthern Division. 
 
 He has under his immediate rule over six hundred 
 people, though the population of Upernivik itself 
 numbers only seventy-nine ; out of which latter, 
 eight are Danes, including the Governor, priest, and 
 blacksmith, and their wives and families, the re- 
 mainder being Esquimaux. Like Lievely, it has its 
 church, store-house, cooperage, smithy, &c. ; but, 
 unlike Lievely, has no good harbour in which a 
 vessel could remain with any degree of safety. 
 True, there are always bergs and land-ice to which 
 a ship can be secured, but under these circumstances 
 it is necessary to keep the steam ready for any 
 emergency. 
 
 The scenery about these islands is wild and 
 peculiar, exhibiting alternate patches of bare gneiss, 
 and snow scattered upwards to the summit of the 
 hills, which rise to a height of from one thousand to 
 fifteen hundred feet. 
 
 Friday, June Qth. — Weighed shortly after five 
 this morning, and, still in company with the " Erik,^' 
 proceeded towards the north ; passing through large 
 and extensive streams of loosely-packed ice, and
 
 100 IVe make for Melville Bay. 
 
 threading our way amongst the numerous islands 
 off this part of the coast. 
 
 Icebergs of large dimensions were in all directions, 
 which added to the beauty and novelty of the scenC; 
 enhanced as it was by a glorious bright sunshiny 
 and real arctic day. 
 
 At noon we passed the Horse's Head (why so 
 named I have been unable to discover, as it certainly 
 bears no resemblance to one), steaming within a 
 quarter of a mile of Cape Shackleton, a precipitous 
 cliff rising abruptly from the water to an altitude of 
 fourteen hundred feet, a famous place for looms ; 
 indeed, this place has the reputation of possessing 
 one of the largest and most prolific loomeries on 
 the coast of Greenland. The cliffs have the appear- 
 ance of the same metamorphic formation as at 
 Disco, although striated in a diagonal direction. 
 
 From Cape Shackleton we emerged into a large 
 open water, entirely free from ice, which astonished 
 all on board, promising a fair and easy passage 
 through Melville Bay. 
 
 Taking advantage of this favourable opportunity 
 we steamed on, passing close to the Deer Islands, 
 off' which there is a remarkable and curious-shaped 
 hill, called by the whalers " Kettle-bottom-up hill." 
 When viewed from the southward, it certainly bears 
 some resemblance to that useful article of kitchen 
 furniture ; but when seen from the northward, it 
 takes the form of a sugar-loaf, being high and trun-
 
 Difficulties of the Passage. 101 
 
 cated. Off the Duck Islands were several large 
 bergs aground, between two of which, whose sum- 
 mits towered far above our mast-heads, we steered, 
 beholding with admiration their wonderful structure. 
 One was most beautifully adorned on the side nearest 
 US with an ornamental fringe of icicles, pendent 
 from its overhanging brow. Wilcox Head, which 
 may be regarded as the south extreme of Melville 
 Bay, was next sighted, and by 7 p.m. we were 
 abreast and in sight of a singularly-shaped hill, 
 called the " DeviFs Thumb," appearing like an obe- 
 lisk on the distant land. 
 
 Now our troubles are about to commence, for 
 stretching out from the nearest point of the shore to 
 the northward and westward, as far as the eye can 
 reach, is our great enemy, the dreaded floe ice of 
 Melville Bay. 
 
 Imagining we saw a 'Head,"^ closed only by a 
 narrow neck of ice, we endeavoured by " butting " 
 and " boring " to break through this obstacle ; 
 but though we tried for a couple of hours, we were 
 unable to advance a single ship's length, and we 
 were compelled to retrace our steps and search for 
 a lead elsewhere. 
 
 To the northward of us, and therefore ahead, we 
 can see the smoke and the top-gallant yards of another 
 
 ^ A " lead," as it is termed, is an open stream of water 
 between the floes, through which a vessel is able to pass.
 
 102 T]ie Dangers of Melville Bay. 
 
 whaler, just visible above the icy horizon, but the 
 floes have apparently closed up the passage by which 
 she had gone through, so that the knowledge of her 
 position is of very little value to us. 
 
 Most ominous and significant preparations were 
 made during the day. Provisions were hoisted up 
 from below, and ranged along the upper deck, in 
 readiness to be placed in the boats, or thrown out 
 on the ice, should it be necessary to abandon the 
 vessel, each man of the ship^s company being 
 ordered to have a shift of clothing packed up 
 handy in a small bag. When a vessel is " nipped " 
 by the ice, there having been no time to cut a dock 
 out of the land floe, this relentless foe must pass 
 either over or under the ship, and that so quickly 
 that the men have barely time in the former case 
 to jump out on the ice. Several instances have 
 occurred in which the iee has nipped and gone 
 through a ship ; and on one occasion, that of the 
 whaler ^' North Britain,^' in the year 1830, it is 
 related that the surgeon, who was sitting in the 
 cabin at the time, beheld the ice breaking through 
 hath sides of the ship, and he was barely able to 
 make his retreat in safety. In that year no less 
 than twenty vessels were lost in Melville Bay, 
 some of them being literally crushed to pieces. 
 The year 1819 was also most disastrous to our 
 whaling fleet, fourteen vessels having been lost ; 
 in fact, until the introduction of steam, scarcely a
 
 Fatalities to WJialers. 103 
 
 season passed without the destruction of many 
 vessels. The water below the ice in Melville Bay 
 could indeed unfold a sad tale. Many is the stout 
 ship, manned by a daring crew and commanded by 
 a skilful and brave master, that has perished, 
 crushed into innumerable fragments by the insati- 
 able and ponderous floes rapidly closing upon the 
 unlucky and doomed vessel, swallowing her so 
 rapidly as barely to allow time for the escape of 
 the crew. 
 
 It is very remarkable that these frequent casual- 
 ties are seldom or ever attended with loss of life. 
 The real danger to be apprehended on that score 
 is from insufficient food and exposure in a rigorous 
 climate. After the mishap has taken place, if there 
 are no vessels in company, the shipwrecked crew 
 must needs find their way to the nearest Danish 
 settlements, and this can only be done by means of 
 boats or sledges ; in the latter case only when the 
 ice is of sufficient thickness to render travelling on 
 it perfectly safe. 
 
 In the year 1830, which, as has already been 
 mentioned, was fatal to twenty of our whalers, two 
 vessels, the '^ Princess of Wales " and the '^Letitia,^' 
 were destroyed by the ice passing completely through 
 their broadsides, and literally cutting them longitu- 
 dinally in two. The " Resolution,^' of Peterhead, 
 had the whole of her counter pierced, and eventually 
 sank ; the " Laurel" and the '^Hope" were squeezed
 
 ] 04 Variations in the Seasons. 
 
 perfectly _/?aif, and then thrown violently on their 
 broadsides, and the '^ Commerce " (brig) Avas lifted 
 bodily on the ice with a twisted stern post, and 
 sank directly the pack loosened. The ''Baffin/' 
 " Achilles/' "Ville de Dieppe/' and ''Rattler/^ 
 were crushed to pieces, and the " Progress/' of 
 Hull, was totally destroyed by an iceberg. The 
 other vessels were destroyed in various strange 
 ways. 
 
 Since steam has been introduced into the whaling 
 trade, the dangers of Melville Bay have been much 
 reduced, and vessels have of late years been enabled 
 to navigate those waters in comparative safety. I 
 make use of the expression " comparative safety " 
 advisedly, for of course there are instances in which 
 even steam vessels have been lost ; but these are 
 happily very rare. 
 
 Some seasons are more severe than others, and 
 ag'ain some are more open. Cases occur in which 
 vessels, though possessing the power and advan- 
 tage of steam, have been unable to effect a passage 
 through the bay, and have been compelled to return. 
 The little " Fox," in 1858, under the command of 
 that most experienced of Arctic navigators. Sir 
 Leopold McClintock, was not able to reach the 
 North Water,' and was forced to pass a dreary 
 
 ' By the "North Water" is meant the open water into 
 which the vessels emerge after passing through the ice in 
 .Alelvillc Bay.
 
 The North Water. 105 
 
 winter in the pack ; and only as late as last year a 
 large and powerful steam whaler, though commanded 
 by one of our best ice navigators, was unsuccessful 
 in her endeavours to penetrate the ice in Melville 
 Bay, and had reluctantly to retrace her steps and 
 seek for whales in Davis' Straits. 
 
 The first ship that ever attempted to brave the 
 perils and difficulties of this dreaded passage was 
 the " Larkins/"' of Leith, in the year 1817, followed 
 by the " Elizabeth,'' of Aberdeen ; since which time, 
 with very rare exceptions, the Xorth Water has 
 been reached by the greater part of the vessels, and 
 generally by the whole of those comprising the 
 whaling fleet. In the early days of the whale 
 fishery, and before our vessels were so well adapted 
 to encounter the hard and rough usage inseparable 
 from ice navigation as they are at the present day, 
 that is between the dates 1817 and 1849, there were 
 only four years in which attempts to reach the 
 North Water were totally unsuccessful. 
 
 The latest period at which whalers have perse- 
 vered in their attempts to make a passage through 
 Melville Bay, terminating with a successful issue, 
 was early in August. 
 
 The time occupied in reaching the North Water 
 must necessarily vary according to the season ; for 
 we find that Parry, in 1824, was fifty-four days 
 passing through Melville Bay, whilst Sir John Ross, 
 in 1829, was only five days ! Captain Austin's
 
 lOG Vary'mg Periods of Detention. 
 
 expedition, in 1850, was forty-five days making the 
 passage, whilst, two years after, Captain Inglefield, 
 in the little " Isabel," went through without any 
 detention whatever.^ Now, our whaling captains 
 consider themselves very unfortunate when they 
 are detained for a period of fifteen or eighteen 
 days. 
 
 Saturday, June 7th. — To-day finds us fairly 
 battling with the ice. We made excellent progress 
 during the night by keeping along the southern 
 edge of the land floe, taking advantage of the 
 different " leads " or lanes of water as they pre- 
 sented themselves, by which we were enabled to 
 advance some distance. The '' Erik " was still in 
 company, each ship taking the lead, according to 
 her success in finding a passage or otherwise. At 
 7 A.M. we passed the little "Yictor,'^ the vessel we 
 had observed ahead the previous night, struggling 
 bravely on ; but, not being possessed of such power 
 as ourselves, she was soon left astern. 
 
 The wind is blowing fresh from the southward ; 
 this is from the very worst direction that we can 
 have it for crossing the bay, as it packs the loose 
 ice tight up against the land floe. It is what the 
 
 ^ Since writing the above, I have learnt that the " Polaris," 
 commanded by the late Captain Hall, also passed through 
 Melville Bay without the slightest obstruction. In fact, no ice 
 of any consequence was met with until they had attained their 
 hinrhest latitude, namelv, 82" 16' X.
 
 A ^^ Strong-ale Windy 107 
 
 whalers call a " strong-ale wind/' as, during the 
 time it blows from that quarter, ships arc more 
 liable to get " nipped/^ and therefore destroyed. 
 The reason it is so called is, that directly the captain 
 has announced his intention of abandoning the ship, 
 the crew rush aft, provided there is time, possessing 
 themselves of anything that may please their fancy, 
 and, sailor-like, immediately broach the ale and 
 spirit casks, unless the captain has wisely beforehand 
 spilled the liquor by staving the casks. This eager 
 thirst for strong drink has often perilled the life of 
 a good and brave seaman. 
 
 Several times during the day did we push up a 
 likely-looking " lead,^^ seeing a splendid and encou- 
 raging water sky' in the distance ; but as often had 
 we to turn back, and quickly get clear of the ice to 
 avoid a " nip,^' the floes being in such rapid motion. 
 
 From the nest a stream of water would be seen, 
 which in less than fifteen minutes, a less time than 
 we could possibly steam through it in, would be 
 completely and hopelessly closed. To add to our 
 difiiculties, the weather became very thick, snow 
 falling heavily, and this necessitated an immediate 
 
 ^ By a " water sky " is meant a lieculiar bluish colour in 
 the sky, which always denotes the presence of water. On 
 some occasions it is seen over the ice at a distance of many 
 miles, and is a sure sign of open water. 
 
 So also the " ice blink," or a whitish colour in the sky, is a 
 certain sign of ice.
 
 108 A^'Mollier 
 
 halt, so the ship was made fast at about 1 p.m. 
 with a couple of ice anchors to a large floe ; the 
 " Erik^' following our example and bringing up 
 about two cables' ^ length from us. At about 6 p.m. 
 our little squadron was augmented by the arrival 
 of the " Victor/' which made fast to the eastward 
 of us. 
 
 In the evening we received a visit from her 
 captain, and I got some little insight into the 
 mysteries of a " mollie/' though on a small scale. 
 
 In whaling parlance, a "mollie" means having 
 a night of it ; that is, a number of captains congre- 
 gate together on board one ship, and then an 
 animated discussion ensues regarding the success 
 attending each and every individual engaged in 
 the fishery ; as talking is naturally a thirsty occupa- 
 tion, copious libations of spirits and beer are dis- 
 cussed, forming very important items in these 
 orgies, which on several occasions have terminated 
 in anything but a friendly manner. 
 
 During the fall fishing, that is towards the close 
 of the year, I have been informed that a '' mollie " 
 will last many days ! It derives its name from the 
 fulmar, a species of petrel, that, as I have already 
 stated, assembles in great quantities during the 
 operation of flinching a whale, when they are 
 continually fighting, squabbling, and gorging to 
 
 ' The length of a cable is equivalent to 200 yards.
 
 Position of tlie Ship. 109 
 
 an inordinate degTee, over the delicate morsels 
 that are carried away on the water from the ship 
 or fish during that process. 
 
 Tracks of bears were seen on the floe during 
 the afternoon, but Bruin very wisely abstained 
 from putting in an appearance. 
 
 Sunday, June 8th, was ushered in by a bright 
 sun, of which I took advantage to land on the floe 
 with my artificial horizon, and determine the posi- 
 tion of the ship by double and single altitudes. I 
 find Captain George's artificial horizon ^ a very 
 useful and portable instrument, and well adapted 
 for these regions, in consequence of the very 
 simple method by which the mercury is trans- 
 ferred from the bottle to the trough and vice versfi : 
 no easy task with the common roof horizon, when 
 the temperature is several degrees below the 
 freezing point. To-day the thermometer was as 
 low as 25°. 
 
 Shortly before noon, the captain seeing what he 
 considered a good load, though separated from us 
 by a broad stream of ice, determined upon boring 
 his way through. Steam was raised, the ice 
 anchors taken on board, and at the apparently 
 unyielding ice we went full speed. Men were 
 
 ^ Supplied by Messrsl Gould and Porter (successors to 
 Cary). of 181, Strand. All the instruments supplied from this 
 tirm I found very jrood.
 
 110 Boring through tlie Ice. 
 
 stationed on the floe, on each, bow of the ship, 
 v.'hose duties were to remove with long boat hooks 
 and handspikes the fragments of ice as they were 
 broken off and crushed by the force of our blows. 
 The ice in many places was several feet in thick- 
 ness, and the floes had long projecting tongues 
 under water, commonly called calves, and these 
 catching the fore foot of the ship would frequently 
 turn her head round, and consequently away from 
 the passage aimed at. 
 
 Pieces of ice of considerable magnitude, broken 
 off by our repeated charges, would pass along 
 under the bottom of the ship, and, emerging up the 
 screw aperture, prevent the propeller from per- 
 forming its revolutions, and therefore bringing the 
 engines to a dead stop. Those of the ship's com- 
 pany remaining on board were all this time em- 
 ployed in running from side to side on the upper 
 deck, for the purpose of rolling the ship and thus 
 crushing the ice and making a free passage for us 
 to pass through. 
 
 Our exertions were rewarded with success, and 
 we soon had the satisfaction of emerging into a 
 clear lead, through which we steamed into a fine 
 open water. The other two vessels, observing our 
 success, immediately took advantage of the opening 
 we had made, and were soon in our wake. 
 
 Several large ground seals were seen lying on 
 the ice in divers directions, and also, later in the
 
 On the Look-out for a " Lead:' 111 
 
 afternoon, a couple of bears, who, however, evaded 
 our futile attempts to make a capture. It is sur- 
 prising to witness the wonderful speed and celerity 
 at which these animals journey over the snow and 
 ice, scampering away as if the surface was as 
 smooth and level as a bowling-green. 
 
 At five in the afternoon, snow commenced fall- 
 ing heavily, obliging us again to make fast to a 
 floe. Clearing up slightly at about half-past six, 
 our skipper, who is determined not to allow the 
 grass to grow under his feet, weighed and stood 
 away along the edge of the floe on the look-out 
 for a " lead.^' 
 
 At eight, after passing through an immense 
 quantity of loose pack, we came out into a large 
 open water, where we felt a considerable swell, so 
 much so that the boats at the davits had to be 
 belted to and freshly secured. Can this be the 
 North Water ? Are we really clear of the whaler^s 
 bugbear, Melville Bay ? The attainment of such 
 a desirable object seems almost too good to be true. 
 
 The weather is still very thick, accompanied by 
 a driving sleet and snow, with a fresh '^ strong-ale 
 wind." This, however, if we are clear of the bay, 
 is no dctinment to us. The '^ Erik " is nowhere 
 m sight, and it is long since we have seen our little 
 friend the " Victor,^^ Both yesterday and to-day 
 myriads of rotges or little auks were seen, the air 
 and water in places literally teeming with them.
 
 112 
 
 Rotije^. or Little Auks. 
 
 As we approached in the ship to where they 
 were swimming and feeding, these little birds 
 would instantly dive, and we could distinctly see 
 them in the clear water s^vimming, or, as the sailors 
 aver, flying, at the depth of three or four fathoms. 
 The harsh discordant noise which these birds give 
 out at times produces such a din as effectually 
 to preclude the possibility of hearing any other 
 sound. 
 
 Several dovekies, or black guillemots, were also 
 seen. 
 
 -'^E^,^ra^ 
 
 Link' Auks.
 
 Chapter VIII. 
 
 THE NORTH WATER. 
 
 ONDAY, June 9th. — A rattling southerly 
 Avind, before which the " Arctic '' is 
 going nine knots, snowing at intervals 
 during the day, and the temperature as 
 low as 23''. We have made a wonderfully quick 
 and almost unprecedented passage across Melville 
 Bay. All last night and early this morning wo 
 kept along the outside edge of the land ice ; and at 
 about 3 A.M. we picked up the eastern edge of the 
 middle pack-ice, with a fine clear open water be- 
 tween, though occasionally meeting, and having to 
 force our way through, broad streams of straggling- 
 ice. At 5 A.M. Cape York was in sight, and by ten 
 o'clock passing Conical Island, we were off Cape 
 Dudley Digges, with Cape Athole and Wolsten- 
 holme Islands on our starboard bow. We are now 
 fairly in the Korth Water; but though wo have 
 been wonderfully successful in passing through 
 
 I
 
 114 In the North Water. 
 
 Melville Bay with only a few hours^ detention, I 
 cannot but acknowledge to a slight feeling of dis- 
 appointment in not having witnessed a few of those 
 dangers and difficulties experienced by many whilst 
 performing this dreaded passage. I was most 
 anxious to see the " crimson suow^^ on the hills 
 of Beverley; to land at Cape York and commu- 
 nicate with those interesting Esquimaux, styled by 
 Sir John Ross the Arctic Highlanders ; to shoot deer 
 in the neighbourhood of Cape Athole, where they 
 abound ; and to bag some eider duck and obtain their 
 eggs amongst the islands where they congregate in 
 thousands. The glaciers also, which were distinctly 
 visible from the ship, extending far away into the 
 interior, were objects of great interest to me, and 
 of which I was most anxious to obtain a closer 
 inspection. 
 
 At about 2 P.M., being in latitude 76° 20' N., 
 with the Cary Islands in sight on our starboard bow, 
 we reached the northern limit of the middle ice, and 
 our course was altered to the S. W., our fishing 
 o*round being off the entrance to Lancaster Sound. 
 Only 850 miles from the North Pole ! It seems 
 no distance. To the northward appears a fine open 
 water, interrupted only by a few insignificant streams 
 of straggling ice, extending out from Whale Sound. 
 One day's steaming would take us to the portals 
 of Smith's Sound, that mysterious region by which 
 the vast extent of unknown land around the Polo 
 seems alone attainable.
 
 A Good Year for Discovery. 115 
 
 What a wonderful man was old Baffin, who in his 
 small and crazj vessel of 55 tons so successfully 
 penetrated these then undiscovered regions ! Ho 
 must indeed have been a brave old navigator, and 
 one whose deeds we should strive to emulate. 
 
 I am quite convinced, and the captain is of the 
 same opinion as myself, that tlds would have been, 
 a splendid year for discovery. We have had four 
 remarkably open seasons in succession, and with 
 such a ship as the one I am now in, there is no 
 saying what such men as McClintock, liichards, or 
 Osborn would not perform. It almost seems an 
 opportunity thrown away that may possibly not 
 occur again for some time, though we must re- 
 member that should this summer be followed by a 
 mild winter, our prospects of reaching a high lati- 
 tude next year will be much increased. If the 
 entrance to Smith's Sound appears so free from 
 obstruction as it does now, what will it not be in 
 two months hence ? 
 
 We make short work of our degrees of longitude, 
 having rattled off ten during the last twenty-four 
 hours. 
 
 Tuesday, June lOtJi. — We still continue to make 
 fair progress, though compelled at times to force 
 our way through broad streams of straggling ice, 
 and through many miles of pancake or bay ice, 
 which is young ice formed by the heavy fall of 
 snow and low temperature that we yesterday
 
 116 Thick Clusters of Rotges. 
 
 experienced. At 2 a.m. we came up to where the 
 water was swarming with innumerable rotges : a 
 couple of boats were lowered, and four guns sent 
 away to shoot for the " pot." They returned in 
 less than twenty minutes with between three and 
 four hundred. The little birds were swimming 
 and fl Wng in such thick clusters that forty- five were 
 killed at one discharge from a gun, and thirty -three 
 at another ! It sounds very much like murder. 
 
 The flesh of these birds is excessively sweet, and 
 they afford a very pleasing contrast at our meals to 
 the continual beef and potatoes. At 11 a.m. we 
 caught a glimpse of Cobourg Island, situated at the 
 entrance to Jones' Sound, and by 3 p.m. were off 
 Cape Horsburgh. 
 
 Occasionally, during intervals between the snow 
 showers, we succeeded in getting a peep at Xorth 
 Devon, so called, I presume, from its extreme dis- 
 similarity to the coast along the north side of our 
 own beautiful county, for it was apparently the 
 very picture of barrenness and desolation, and co- 
 vered with snow. Everywhere snow ! Still skirting 
 along the edge of the middle ice, we arrived at what 
 was considered the northern limit of our fishing- 
 ground, off the entrance to Lancaster Sound. Fires 
 were burned down, and the ship, for the first time 
 since leaving the S.W. fishing, once more put under 
 canvas. 
 
 Auo-ust is o-enerallv reo'arded as a blank month.
 
 Whales in August. 117 
 
 80 far as regards the whales, by those employed in 
 their capture, very few being seen during that month. 
 The captain and myself have repeatedly had dis- 
 cussions on this subject, in which Baffin, Inglefield, 
 and Hayes have been quoted. AH these authors 
 testify to the fact of having seen numerous whales 
 in Whale Sound in August. It was, therefore, 
 with difficulty I could repress my delight when 
 the captain came up to me to-day, and announced 
 his intention, if he is not a full ship, of going after 
 " them beggaring whales " in August, which, in 
 his Opinion, go north, and therefore he would search 
 for them in Whale Sound, This conjecture was of 
 course readily assented to by me. 
 
 It is very strange that the masters of whale ships, 
 with very few exceptions, still continue to jSsh over 
 the same old beaten ground, never attempting to 
 depart from the old routine, and, therefore, allowing 
 the month of August to pass idly, without troubling 
 themselves to discover the resort of the whales 
 during that month. I am firmly convinced that 
 our captain's enterprising disposition will shortly 
 resolve that question, and, whether we go north or 
 whether we go west, we shall eventually return to 
 Scotland a "full ship;'' and I am confidently look- 
 ing forward to a prosperous and successful cruise, 
 bi'inging with it important and useful results. 
 
 This evening we had for tea a most savoury mess, 
 consisting of some j^reserved ptarmigan, which had
 
 I I 8 li\>id Weather. 
 
 Locri kindly |)r('soni;(!(l lo iih nX Llr^vcly l)y Mrs. 
 Srniili, ilio Jnsixjctor'.s wifd. 
 
 Wfilwiiiday, Junit Wl.lh. — VVIhmi J;ick, iJiiii, iiiosl, 
 ()l)li^Iii^' ;iii(l wlllliii;' ol' .sicwMrds^ (■;ill('(l mo lliis 
 iiiiii'iilii;^; lie iiii|)!ui,o(l tlio not vory plcasiu}^' intbr- 
 iii.'iiioii, IIkiJ- IL w;i-,s " l)l<»wii»;^ u, <^'iilo of wind, siiow- 
 iii;^' li.'ird, iiiid froc/iiii^i;- lil<(! m.'ul." VVitli suoli in- 
 tolli^-oiioo it i'('(|uii'cd no siii;dl :uii(inril of submission 
 ;iiid (biiitudo io ii,l)iuidon iriy sim^- wnrni littlo Imnk 
 mid iKii'lbriri tJio nocos^iM-y iiiorning" ablutions. My 
 l,oil(!t (•(iiii|»lcl('d ;irid clirdnoiiicdcT wound ii]», 1 ])ro- 
 cocdcd on dock, ;ind (bund tidn^^'s Jiot so biid Jis 
 .1 !inl,i(-i|)ai(!d IVoni ili(! st(!VViird\s ropoiii. It was 
 blowing- 1V(\sli IVoni llio S. M., aiid tlio slii]> was car- 
 fyin^" r('(!lbd i.opsails and Ibrcisail, ilioii^'li l,lio wator, 
 on ac^'oMiil (if llio ico, wldcli was scaiiorcii aboui in 
 loose bira'4";4'lin<^' 8l'rca,nis and dcdacdicd llocs, was 
 us sjnoot'ii as Ili(> 'riiaincs oil' Wosindnstoi' on a 
 boiatorous day. Snow and sI(M'I, were l:dlini>- last, 
 bill tli(! tcin |t('raJ,iiro was only (>" below tli(^ Irtuj/anj^" 
 poinl. On iJic whole, ])('i'liaps, tlio day liad not a. 
 very invilini;' or |)roiirisiiin;' a])poaranc('. 
 
 Wo arc fairly on our lisliing' j^round, and ovcry 
 ono is on tlio y"'' '""'''• boa,ts arc lowered s(piaro 
 vvilli the n-uiiwale, oars eoutd-ed, tliolo pins and 
 i^riinmiels inspected, and tlio liarpoons and lancos, 
 on which a, thick coa,tini>" of rust has lately been 
 allowod to acciiimilate, cleaned and sharpened. 
 
 M!,<lii.i(jlil . — L am now writinL;- amidsti a pcn-fect
 
 On tilt' /''/'s/u'/n/ (li'oinid. I 11* 
 
 cliiion of cniipl.y hoUlcH, hnikcii |ii|i(M .ind i^'liisaos, 
 11,11(1 (^i;^'Mi' iihIicm, iiili;iliii^' m, .sI-i'oii"; |Mrriiiii(^ ol" sl-iilo 
 
 l-ollJM'CO. y\ll(| Mid CIIIIMII of ;ill (JlIM IS, \V(^ li;iA'(* 
 liiul ;r " iiiollid." 1 1. Ii;is now Icnii iii;iJ cil , .'iiid I ;iiii 
 
 Icll. Ill Hdic |)()S,S('Ssiilll (if iJlc (mI)! II, ;ili('lll|ll.ill<.'' I,(» 
 
 \vril,(' on (Jio l.ii.Mo, ^^•iiriii.slicil in Ilid niiuiiior do- 
 s('1'i1)(mI. 
 
 I'.iil,, do ;i,i'coniil Inr onr (Iis,si|»!ilion, I iniisl mI-iiIiC, 
 
 Mini/, llJ/ IlJlOllli I I'.M. IJk^ VV(^1I,I<I|<'I', WiI'Ii Olid of MlOM(f 
 
 rii,|iitl cliiuit^'cs so |)('ciili)i,r l,o iJmso r(\L;'ioiis, HiHldcnly 
 clci.ircd ii|i, r(^\(';iliii!'; (,o onr vii'w llio l;iiid ;dnni'; iJic 
 HoiilJi Mid<i of h;iiic;i,sirr Sound, liivli iiiid coviicd 
 wil/li Hiiovv, iMid lU'oiind iiM III diHoi'cnIi dii'ci'liioii.s no 
 Idas IliiMi livci vvliiijitrs. 
 
 A lio;i,(, \vii,s lowcrcil , .-iiid wo wciil. (Ui lio:ird llic 
 " h]s(|iiiiiiiiii\ ," wliicli .slii|) we know li:id loll. I)nii- 
 <!('(• ;i. fori iiiiMiL iiricr lis, rccci v iii;^' IVoin Iht kind 
 coiiiniiindci' ;l l;irj^-o hiiiidh^ ol" InM.cr.H iind iiovVH- 
 |i;i,|i('i's. Milking-; onr vksili iin hIioiI. ;is vvii.s c.oni- 
 |);dj|)l(! wilJi conrlcsy, \V(* linn'ic(| on jioni'd, mid 
 vvoro soon d(M'|ily oiif^'cosscnl vvil.li iiows iVoni Iioiik!. 
 
 Al. nJioiili 7 I'.M. onr lioMiiiLdilo skippor JioiHicil n, 
 JilKtkol/ 111, iJio iiii/,(ni-lop-[_';iiJliiiil, in;iHl-li<':id , wliii'li, 
 il. Hocnis, is 11, si;''ii!iJ, when no lioiiis urn ii w;iy , llinl. 
 ilio liiii,Hi(!r of tint sliip d Ispl.'iyin;'- siii-li hiickct is 
 dcHiroiis of iiiiA'in;.'; ii, " niollio." In :i. very slioi'l, 
 liiiHi wi) wore lio!ir(lcd |»y |,lio viirioiis ciiiiriiiriM, 
 sonic ol' vvlioin vvcro a-c<"oinp;i iiKid liy iJirir siir;/;<'oiis. 
 Tlicn ciisikmI iIic nsii.'i! sci'iic, p|{'iil\' ol" l;ilk iiiioiil.
 
 120 A ''Mollie'' on Board. 
 
 whales ; plenty to drink and plenty of smoking. 
 From the masters downwards all seemed to be 
 known, and their individual merits and qualifica- 
 tions were severally discussed. 
 
 The topic of conversation was of course the 
 whale fishery; no fish has as yet been seen, but 
 they all seem to concur in one opinion, namely, 
 that it is a fine open season, and they are unani- 
 mous in predicting a successful slaughter amongst 
 the whales. They had all a good passage through 
 Melville Bay, and are only two or three days 
 ahead of us. From conversation that I had with 
 some of these captains I learnt with great satisfac- 
 tion that they already deeply regretted having 
 signed, some few months previous to their sailing, 
 a paper at Dundee, advocating the route by Spitz- 
 bergen as being the best adapted for reaching the 
 Xorth Pole. They were drawn into the act by one 
 of the whaling masters. They are now entirely 
 in favour of the route via Smith's Sound, which 
 they are most decidedly of opinion, and they are 
 willing to give their ideas publicity, is the best 
 and perhaps the only way by which the Pole may 
 be reached. 
 
 Saturday, June 14iA. — The day before yester- 
 day, seeing a large open water some distance to the 
 southward, steam was raised, and leaving the re- 
 mainder of the whaling fleet, we forced our way 
 through the ice, eventually entering what appeared 
 a splendid " water.'''
 
 Beset by Ice. 121 
 
 The floes, however, were fast closing-, and before 
 we had time to extricate ourselves we were com- 
 pletely and for the time hopelessly beset. We 
 used our utmost endeavours to get clear, sail was 
 set, and the engines did their best ; but it was of no 
 avail, we were unable to bore a way through, and 
 there we were, regularly caught and unable either 
 to go ahead or astern. The ice was so soft and 
 brashy as to render it impossible to benefit our- 
 selves by cutting or blasting. 
 
 In addition to the mortification that we feel at 
 being beset, and probably detained many days, we 
 have the pleasing knowledge that the whales are 
 beginning to make their appearance, and that the 
 " Camperdown^^ succeeded in getting a fish at two 
 o'clock yesterday morning, the first that has been 
 captured since leaving the S. W. 
 
 Yesterday was a beautiful clear day, and our 
 view from the ship across a large and extensive 
 plain of ice to the thickly snow-covered hills be- 
 yond, rising to an altitude of fully 2,000 feet, was 
 both new and imposing. Not a patch approaching* 
 a dark colour was to be seen to relieve the eye on 
 the pure white snow-clad mountains. 
 
 Close to Cape Liverpool is a large glacier, which 
 we can plainly see, formed in a deep ravine be- 
 tween two high hills, which makes me anxious for 
 a trip to the shore. There are also other induce- 
 ments to tempt me shorewards. Natives might be 
 fallen in with who could possibly throw some light
 
 to 
 
 122 Attempt to release Ourselves. 
 
 on the unknown regions of the north, or from 
 whom some information may be obtained regarding 
 the missing " Polaris/^ the Esquimaux, as a general 
 rule, being of a most migratory habit. Positions 
 can be determined, and specimens in various 
 branches of science can be collected. Altogether 
 there are many attractions to draw one towards 
 this little-known land, to obtain any one of which 
 would amply repay one after the monotony of life 
 on board. 
 
 This morning brought a very imperceptible 
 alteration in our prospects, as far as the chance of 
 getting clear was concerned. Snow was falling 
 heavily, and the wind had subsided. At about 
 noon the snow ceased, and a bright sky and warm 
 sun took its place, but not a drop of water to be 
 seen in any direction. 
 
 The land about Cape Byam Martin extended 
 along our starboard beam, but everywhere else was 
 ice — one impassable plain of ice. We made several 
 efforts to release ourselves, but after nearly two 
 hours^ steaming these were relinquished, having 
 only succeeded during that time in moving the ship 
 about half her length. 
 
 The ice is of that brashy nature which precludes 
 all possibility of walking ; and being thickly covered 
 with snow, it would be excessively dangerous for 
 any person to venture upon it. Anyone so doing 
 would be almost certain of going through.
 
 We are again beset. 123 
 
 This fact is apparently known to an old seal of 
 a huge size, who for many hours has been lying on 
 the ice basking* in the sun, occasionally raising its 
 head for the purpose of observing our movements, 
 in a dreamy, sleepy sort of manner. We could 
 easily shoot him from the ship ; but even if success- 
 ful in killing, it would be almost impossible to 
 make a prize of him, so he is allowed to remain in 
 undisturbed peace, and enjoy himself, as Dr. Kane 
 would say, in a " sealy" manner. 
 
 These regions are proverbially notorious for the 
 sudden changes which so quickly take place in the 
 weather and state of the ice. 
 
 At noon our position was by no means a pleasant 
 one, but by 4 p.m., in consequence of a bright sun 
 and a light north-westerly breeze, the floes com- 
 menced to loosen and '^ leads'^ through the ice were 
 observed in various directions. Steam was quickly 
 raised, and hopeful anticipations of being again free 
 were shared by all. These were, however, doomed 
 not to be realized, for after about six hours^ con- 
 tinual steaming, first ahead, then astern, with the 
 men employed rushing from side to side to roll the 
 ship, we were again beset, having barely advanced 
 a couple of miles. If the fine weather continues 
 we may reasonably hope to be shortly released ; 
 and the sooner the better, for our confinement and 
 utter inability to get out are already beginning to 
 exert a depressing influence upon our worthy
 
 lU 
 
 Beset in the Ice. 
 
 skipper, who is constantly pictunng" to himself the 
 other ships in the midst of whales, whilst we are 
 lying idle ; and he is, therefore, rather morose and 
 taciturn, so different from his usual jovial and 
 boisterous humour. 
 
 Bear sleeping.
 
 Chapter IX, 
 
 MIDDLE ICE FISHING. 
 
 UN DA Y, June Ihth. — Last night, before 
 going to bed, an inquisitive little seal 
 made its appearance in a small pool of 
 water astern, seeming to be monstrously 
 surprised at beholding such a clumsy and awkward- 
 looking animal as we must have appeared in com- 
 parison to itself. Poor little fellow ! it paid dearly 
 for its temerity. It is what the whalers call a "floe 
 rat,^' Ms of a dark-greyish colour, and is about three 
 feet long. 
 
 Our days, whilst fishing, are most uncertain, and 
 to-day has been no exception to the general rule. 
 
 ' Phoca fcetida, or the Floe rat of English aud Scotch sealers, 
 according to Dr. R. Brown, is the smallest of the Greenland 
 seals. It is chiefly looked upon and taken as a cnriosity by 
 the whalers, and is considered of very little commercial im- 
 portance. It is called by them the " Hoe rat," as it is invari- 
 ably found on floes or swimmin<if about in the smooth floe
 
 126 A Capture. 
 
 What would our strict Sabbatarians in Scotland say, 
 if they only knew how their countrymen had been 
 employed during the last twenty hours ? 
 
 Early this morning and during the entire fore- 
 noon, taking advantage of the looseness of the pack, 
 we pushed our way through the cracks and lanes, 
 and by dint of great patience and perseverance, 
 succeeded by noon in extricating ourselves from 
 our icy prison, emerging into a fine piece of water, 
 not far from two other whalers. 
 
 At about half-past two a fish was seen from the 
 masthead, and shortly after another. Six boats 
 were promptly in the water and in pursuit, when 
 more fish were seen, and all the boats were de- 
 spatched in chase. In a very short time the welcome 
 cry of '' A fall ! " was called, and we heard it re- 
 echoing along the water from the various boats 
 spread out in different directions. 
 
 Again the cry, and then another and yet another, 
 and before five o'clock our boats were fast to no 
 less than four fish ! Our success must have been 
 most tantalizing and vexatious to the two ships in 
 company, who, though amongst the whales^ with the 
 same opportunities as ourselves, failed to secure a 
 
 waters. The uld males have a most otfensive smell, which has 
 suggested the name fatida. 
 
 " Web-footed seals forsake the stormy swell, 
 
 And sleep in herds exhaling nauseous smell." — IIomkr.
 
 Despatch of our Prey. 127 
 
 single fish. Our boats were scattered iu all direc- 
 tions, and fog and snow overtaking us, they were 
 soon concealed from our view. We were, however, 
 guided to a knowledge of their position by hearing 
 the cheers of the \dctorious crews when they had 
 succeeded in killing their fish. 
 
 One of the whales, on being struck, had made 
 for the pack ice, which rendered it impossible for a 
 boat to approach sufficiently near to administer the 
 coup de grace. Steam being ready, the ship was 
 pushed in, steering towards the spot where, from 
 the direction the line was taking, we knew the fish 
 to be, making thereby a lane for the boats. We 
 came close up to the poor beast when a second 
 harpoon was fired into it, the harpooneers watching 
 their opportunity every time it rose, and plunging 
 their lances in to the depth of six or seven feet. 
 The water was soon dyed crimson in the vicinity of 
 the unfortunate animal, and the ice for some distance 
 around was stained with the same, ensanguined hue. 
 It was impossible for anything possessing vitality 
 to survive long the vigorous and deadly thrusts - 
 which it received, and after a brief struggle and oni; 
 last convulsive heaving of its enormous tail, the 
 unhappy monster, yielding to the superior power 
 and knowledge of its tormentors, turned slowly over 
 on its back and expired amidst the cheers of the 
 boats^ crews and all on board. It was impossible 
 to refrain from ioinint'- in the <j'cneral excitement
 
 128 Hoisting the Carcase on Board. 
 
 and enthusiasm of the moment, though painful to 
 witness the death struggles of these huge, unwieldy 
 animals. 
 
 It was eight o'clock before all our fish were 
 killed and alongside, when everything being pre- 
 pared for the process of '^ flinching," the men were 
 sent to their supper, and at nine o'clock commenced 
 that operation. 
 
 The fish at this early period of the season arc 
 generally small, which can only be accounted for by 
 the supposition that the young fish always precede 
 the older ones on their journey up from the south. 
 In consequence of their small size, the operation of 
 " flinching " is slightly different from that which I 
 have ali-eady described. No " cant " is used on 
 these occasions, but the fish is taken in, in four 
 hoists, with the fore and main spek tackles. This 
 process is called ^' worming." The first hoist is the 
 ^^ jowl," which is the entire imder jaw, including the 
 tongue ; the second is the '' crown," which com- 
 prises the upper jaw and the remainder of the head; 
 this will of necessity include the whalebone ; — the 
 head of a whale is about a third of the whole animal. 
 The third hoist is one fin and all the blubber from 
 the belly and one side ; and the last hoist is the 
 remaining fin, tail and blubber from the back and 
 other side, the carcase sinking as the last piece is 
 detached from it. It was past midnight before our 
 work was finished, and the last hreng disappeared
 
 A Cool Bath. 129 
 
 below tlie surface of the water, after which we all 
 sat down to a supernumerary meal, consisting of hot 
 preserved Australian mutton and coffee, which of 
 itself, exclusive of the bright daylight which now 
 prevails, would effectually bo the means of banishing* 
 sleep. 
 
 The fulmars and burgomasters, as usual during 
 the process of flinching, held their noisome and dis- 
 gusting orgies, gorging themselves to such a state of 
 repletion on the refuse pieces of hrcng and blubber, 
 as in several instances to be unable to fly away. 
 
 One of the fish captured was completely blind of 
 one eye, the eye-ball being simply a mass of fat and 
 gristle. It had not the appearance of being dis- 
 eased, and in all probability had never been a perfect 
 organ. The ear of the whale, or rather the aper- 
 ture leading to the tympanum, which is situated 
 just behind the eye and about two feet inside the 
 head, is remarkably small, not sufficiently large to 
 admit the insertion of a man's little finger. The 
 drum of the ear itself, when extracted and cleaned, 
 bears a strong resemblance to a large univalve 
 shell. 
 
 Whilst hoisting in one large mass of blubber, 
 the strop to which the tackle was hooked, in con- 
 secjuence of the heavy strain, drew through the soft, 
 pinguid substance, which latter falling backwards 
 into the " mollie boat,'' knocked poor Tom AVebster 
 overboard into an unctuous sea of water, blood, and 
 
 K
 
 130 Wounding a Walrus. 
 
 grease, out of wliicli lie was picked in a most 
 deplorable plight, retaining, however, his pipe in 
 his mouth, though losing a valuable spade with 
 which he had been working. A bath with the 
 temperature below freezing, whilst perspiring from 
 over- exertion, is no joke. 
 
 It is surprising to notice the exhilarating cheer- 
 fulness which appears to take possession of everyone 
 on board after a successful bout with the whales, 
 and I must also myself plead guilty to the fact of 
 sharing in the same exultant feeling*. 
 
 Monday, June IQtli. — " After a storm comes a 
 calm,'^ a saying which has been verified by the 
 perfect quiet of to-day, the general excitement of 
 yesterday having totally subsided. 
 
 Snow was falling the greater part of the day, 
 and the weather was thick and foggy. Dm-ing the 
 forenoon a large walrus, or sea-horse, as they are 
 more commonly called, was seen swimming about 
 at some little distance from the ship. I fired at it 
 with my rifle, but only succeeded in wounding it. 
 Indeed, it is almost impossible to kill these animals 
 with a bullet, their skulls, the only vital part, being 
 of such a thickness as to make them in many cases 
 impervious to a common rifle ball. I was sorry after 
 I had fired, as the poor beast was seen for some 
 time splashing and writhing with pain, though his 
 sufferings will most probably terminate with death 
 before many hours elapse.
 
 ' ' Making- off ' ' the Blubber. 131 
 
 A slight commotion was caused towards the 
 evening by observing the boats of one of the 
 whalers f.ist to a fish. Instantly smoke was seen 
 in all directions, and like a flock of harpies, the 
 whole of the whaling fleet, ourselves included, were 
 steaming towards the lucky ship, determined either 
 to share in her good fortune — supposing that she 
 was in the midst of fish — or to scare them all away. 
 Nothing-, however, resulted from our efforts. 
 
 Tuesday, June 17 th. — This whaling is a very 
 selfish trade ; if one ship is unsuccessful, nothing 
 delights her master and crew more than to observe 
 others equally unfortunate. This has not been one 
 of our lucky days; and although we have seen several 
 fish, and had our boats away in pursuit, we have not 
 been able to record a single ^' fall," whilst the other 
 ships appear to have been as prosperous as we have 
 been the reverse. 
 
 It is a lovely day, and the land stretching away 
 from Cape Bathurst to Cape Liverpool is plainly 
 visible about ten miles off", still retaining its thick 
 winter coating of snow. 
 
 Taking advantage of the fine weather, the crew 
 have been employed ^^making-off*" the blubber 
 from the fish captured on Sunday ; and grease — 
 good thick substantial grease — reigns supreme. 
 The deck is as slippery as ice, and the unctuous 
 substanee pervades the whole ship ; so much so, 
 that great caution is necessary in walking along
 
 132 Chase after Narwhals. 
 
 the upper deck to avoid a tumble. The smell is 
 not so objectionable as I had anticipated — perhaps 
 I am getting so accustomed to it as hardly to per- 
 ceive it. 
 
 Apparently one of the most happy and contented 
 of our crew is the " Dummy/' as he is always called. 
 Notwithstanding his infirmities^ he is a most intelli- 
 gent and willing man, besides being of a very cheer- 
 ful disposition. He is only able to make himself 
 understood by signs peculiar to himself, never 
 having learnt to talk with his fingers, or to make 
 use of any recognized deaf and dumb alphabet. 
 
 He always appears to know intuitively when boats 
 are ordered away, or any other duties connected 
 with the working of the ship, and is generally 
 among the first. The only noise he is able to emit 
 is a disagreeable sort of croak, which sounds oddly 
 enough when he is attempting to join the men in 
 their incessant cheering on the death of a fish and 
 other occasions. 
 
 Wednesday , June 18th. — How rapidly changes 
 take place in these regions ! Four days ago we 
 were beset in much about the same place as we are 
 at present by closely packed ice ; now the ice is of 
 a straggling description, and the water, as far as the 
 eye can see, perfectly navigable. 
 
 During the forenoon a couple of narwhals, or as 
 they are called by the whalers, " unies " (unicorn 
 abbreviated), were seen not far from the shij), and
 
 A Valualde Prize. 133 
 
 the captain gave permissiou for a crew of volunteers 
 to take a boat and attempt the capture of one. I 
 had the honour of being selected as boat steerer — - 
 no unimportant duty — the success of the harpooneer 
 mainl}- depending upon the manner in which a boat 
 is steered towards a fish, the general maxim being 
 " to keep off her eye." It also requires a little skill 
 and dexterity, gained only by constant practice, to 
 manage a steer oar in an efiicient manner. 
 
 Pulling cautiously up towards our quarry, we had 
 to wait some little time before a chance pi'esented 
 itself; it came at length, and Harky ^ Hunter, our 
 harpooneer, immediately profiting by it, fired, — the 
 line running out rapidly and the water discoloured 
 with blood, plainly told us with eSect. It ran out 
 120 fathoms of line with great velocity and without 
 a check, when it suddenly stopped. We com- 
 menced hauling in the line, coiling it away carefully 
 as it came in, and soon had the satisfaction of seeing 
 our victim come to the surface dead. The " Unie " 
 had probably been drowned in its death struggles. It 
 proved to be a valuable prize, measuring eighteen 
 feet in length, exclusive of the horn, which appen- 
 dage was seven feet long. These creatures, when 
 struck, will take line out as quickly as a whale, 
 though not such a quantity. 
 
 On returning to the ship, our prize was hoisted 
 
 ^ Hercules.
 
 134 
 
 The Nanchid. 
 
 on board by means of the fore spek tackle ; a soft 
 outside coating on the skin, called by the whalers 
 gaim, was scraped off T^'ith iron scrapers called gum 
 knives J and the blubber taken off in long strips, 
 yielding altogether about five or six hundredweight. 
 
 Xarwlial, or " Unie," and Bear. 
 
 The horn was on the left side of the nose, and on 
 the right was a small one, not visible until after the 
 blubber had been removed from the skull ; this latter 
 was about twelve inches long. The belly of the fish 
 was of a beautiful pure white colour. Whalers are 
 most fastidious in a certain way, with regard to their 
 eating, rarely partaking of any thing but what is
 
 Attempt to Surprise a Seal. 135 
 
 brought out iu the ship, excepting birds ; the flesh 
 of bears and seals is utterly discarded. This even- 
 ing at tea we induced the steward to give us a por- 
 tion of the narwhaPs tail, which, boiled and steeped 
 in vinegar, we found very palatable. 
 
 During the afternoon, seeing a large ground seal 
 lying on the floe, I shouldered my rifle and at- 
 tempted to stalk it, imitating as well as I was able, 
 after the manner of the Esquimaux, the moveuients 
 of the seal itself, crawling along the ice on my 
 stomach, and rolling my head about iu a most un- 
 comfortable manner, but consoling myself all the 
 time for my very vmpleasant mode of jDrogression 
 with the idea that I was doing the correct thiuo-. 
 My artifices, however, must have been very shallow 
 and easily detected by my would-be prey, who dis- 
 appeared in the water before I was within eighty 
 yards. I was not sorry to get back to the ship, as 
 the ice was cracking in a far from pleasant way at 
 every step I took. If I had fallen through nothing- 
 could have saved me, as the strong current would 
 quickly have carried me under the ice, before any 
 assistance could have reached me, 
 
 Thursday, June Idtlo. — This forenoon a boat was 
 lowered after a narwhal in which I again officiated 
 as boat-stcerer, having Davy Smith as harpooueer. 
 The " unie " was apparently frightened away, for 
 we never saw it after leaving the ship. Whilst 
 laying on our oars watching for it to rise, one of
 
 136 ■ A Whale heard. 
 
 the crew declared lie heard a wliale^ though a long- 
 distance off. 
 
 We all listened attentively, when Davy Smith 
 also hearing it, though the sound Avas perfectly in- 
 audible to my unpractised ears, Ave pulled vigor- 
 ovisly in the direction whence it appeared to come.' 
 After pulling about a couple of miles through loose 
 pack ice, we again lay on our oars and listened. 
 Shortly the distinct blast of a whale was heard, this 
 time by all of us, and away we went towards the 
 spot indicated by the noise, as fast as five lusty 
 rowers could propel us. 
 
 The ship, seeing that we had what the whalers 
 call a " start," and knowing that Ave should not Ije 
 pulling in such a vigorous manner if it was only 
 after a " unie," sent a couple of boats in the direc- 
 tion that we had taken, and shortly afterwards,, 
 havino- sio-hted the " fish " from the crow's nest, 
 " all hands " were called, and all boats sent in 
 chase. 
 
 And a fine chase this Avhale led us. For five 
 
 ^ Sir Edward Parry, in the account of liis second voyaoe, 
 mentions the extreme facility with which sound in cold weather 
 is heai'd at a considerable distance, relating as an instance that 
 one of his officers having occasion to send a man from the oh- 
 serA-atory to a distance exceeding one statute mile, had placed, 
 for convenience, a second person half-way between to repeat 
 his orders. This precaution, howeA-er, he found minecessary, 
 as he Avas Avithout difficulty able to keep up a convei'sation 
 with the man at the further station. The temperature at this 
 time Avas— 18", and the Aveather nearly calm.
 
 Fatiguing Chase. 137 
 
 hours did we pull over and fhromjlb fields of ice with- 
 out once being' able to catch sight of our game, 
 directed only by its blast. I have had many a 
 hard day^s work before in a boat in different parts 
 of the world, which now appear to me as child's 
 play compared with our exertions of to-day. The 
 duty devolving- on a boat steerer is by no means a 
 sinecure when chasing a lively whale amongst heavy 
 ice ; at times the boat has to be forced between two 
 floes, wide enough only to admit, the boat, on which 
 occasion she has to be sculled through by the 
 steerer, and the incessant work of sweeping the 
 boat round the numerous pieces of ice is most labo- 
 rious. Shortly after 5 r.M. the bucket, to our no 
 small relief, was observed hoisted at the mizen-top- 
 gallant mast-head, as a signal for the boats to return, 
 and I was by no means sorry to sweep the boat's 
 head round in the direction of the ship. When 
 once boats have been despatched in chase of fish, 
 they are not at liberty to return until recalled by 
 the bucket, or, if at a distance, by loosing the fore- 
 top-gallant sail. We had not pulled half-a-dozen 
 strokes, before we heard the report of a gun, fol- 
 lowed immediately by the cry of "A fall ! a fall ! " 
 and we knew that our energetic and indefatigable 
 mate was fast. 
 
 Repeating the cry, and sweeping the boats round, 
 we pulled in the direction of the fast boat as lustily 
 and cheerily as if we had not been at work, and at 
 hard work too, for the last five hours. Pushing the
 
 138 A Fortunate Prize. 
 
 boat over streams of ico and between floes, and 
 taking advantage of all open " leads/' we were soon 
 up to the fish, wlio had by this time received a 
 second harpoon, and three or four fatal thrusts from 
 a lance wielded by the experienced hand of Bob 
 Gordon. From the immense jets of blood thrown 
 up, contrasting strongly with the white ice ujDon 
 which it fell, we knew she was near her end ; and 
 so it proved, for having anxiously waited with our 
 deadly weapons in readiness for her reappearance, 
 we commenced to haul in the lines^no easy task 
 for seven or eight men in a boat, with a hundred- 
 ton weight attached to the end. We had scarcely 
 hauled in a couple of lines (200 fathoms) before the 
 ship steamed up, and taking the line on board and 
 bringing it to the steam winch, the fish was dragged 
 to the surface dead, amidst the vociferous and de- 
 lighted cheers of all. She proved to be a perfect 
 monster, worth at least five or six of those captured 
 last Sunday. She will in all probability yield close 
 upon twenty tons of oil. At eight we commenced 
 to flinch, which operation was completed at about 
 eleven o'clock. 
 
 We have been compelled to clear out some of 
 our tanks in readiness to receive the blubber ; and 
 the coal with which they were filled, to the amount 
 of about twenty tons, is heaped along the quarter 
 deck. The state of the upper deck, from the ag- 
 glutination of grease and coal dust, may therefore 
 be better conceived than described. The voracity
 
 Voraciti/ of the " Mollies. 
 
 139 
 
 of the " mollies " swarming- rouinl the ship is per- 
 fectly astonishing ; it is impossible to drive or 
 frighten them away, though rejieatedly struck at 
 with the blubber knives and boat-hooks. The men 
 at work on the whale alongside catch them easily 
 with their hands^ and will fling them back amongst 
 their companions, who for the moment will rise 
 affrighted on the wing, but only to settle again 
 directly and resume the banquet. It is almost in- 
 credible to witness the enormous pieces of blubber 
 that these birds can swallow ; and they are so 
 ravenous and greedy, that I have frequently seen 
 them, after filling to repletion, swim a short dis- 
 tance away from the ship (being unable to fly in 
 consequence of the amount which they had eaten), 
 and, disgorging the contents T)f their stomachs, re- 
 turn ao-ain to the feast. 
 
 Walrus.
 
 Chapter X. 
 
 MORE WHALES AT THE MIDDLE ICE. 
 
 BID AY, June 20f/i.— Off Cape Walter 
 Batliurst. This forenoon, being close 
 to the " Erik/^ we had a visit from 
 Mr. Rickaby, a passenger on board 
 that ship. From him we received the information 
 that, after parting from ns in Melville Bay, they 
 went up to Dalrymple Island, a small islet between 
 Saanders and Wolstenholme Islands, off Cape 
 Athole ; and that they were there visited by some 
 Esquimaux, who came from the former island on 
 sledges. They could speak no English, but by 
 their manners they appeared as if they had recently 
 had intercourse with white men, and this idea was 
 corroborated by their ha\ang in their possession a 
 couple of American government rifles, with the date 
 1864 stamped upon them, and which, from their 
 clean and bright state, did not appear to have been 
 long in their hands. From what Mr. Rickaby could
 
 The ^^ Erik " visited by E.'^quiiuau.v. 141 
 
 learu, lie was under the impression that these na- 
 tives had verj lately held communication -vyith some 
 white men to the northward, and that they — the 
 white men — were either five days^ journey (by 
 sledge) from where they were (Dalrymple Island), 
 or else five days from Etah, the place whence the 
 
 X 
 
 Dalrymple Island. 
 
 Esquimaux had come. Referring to the ship, they 
 held up two fingers, but whether they intended to 
 convey the idea that there Avere two ships, or one 
 ship Avith two masts, was uncertain. 
 
 I feel convinced that this must have some refer- 
 ence to the " Polaris," which vessel was schooner- 
 rigged, and that she is in all probability either beset 
 or wrecked not very far from Cape Alexander. It 
 is difficult to account for the rifles being in their 
 possession, as, being government property, it is 
 
 M
 
 142 A Young Bear shot. 
 
 most unlikely that they would be used as barter, 
 unless in the last extremity. If the news regarding 
 the " Polaris ^' that we heard at Lievely be true, it 
 is more than probaljle that she has been abandoned 
 by her crew and plundered by the natives. It is a 
 great pity that the "Erik" did not attempt to obtain 
 fuller and more comj^lete information, as open water 
 was reported as far as they could see to the north- 
 ward. 
 
 In the afternoon^ whilst steaming along the edge 
 of a large floe, a bear was observed on the ice. 
 Rifles were immediately in requisition. As we 
 approached, Master Bruin, who had been watching 
 us intently for some time, stood up on his hind legs 
 and surveyed us T\ath great attention ; then, shaking 
 his head, scampered off at full speed. A ball from 
 my little rifle, however, stopped his career, passing- 
 through his skull, and killing him instantaneously. 
 He was a young bear, measuring about seven feet 
 from tip to tail ; and the fact of his being clothed 
 in his winter coat, makes his skin more valuable 
 than it otherwise would be. 
 
 Saturday, June 21st. — The wind has literally 
 been making sport of us all day ; at one time blow- 
 ing furiously from the N.W., the ship staggering 
 under close-reefed topsails ; at another nearly calm, 
 the sails furled, and the ship under steam ; and this 
 has been going on for the last twenty-four hours. 
 At noon to-day, during a violent gust, we made fast
 
 Attempt to get up Lancaster Sound. 143 
 
 to an enormous field of ice, whose extent was not 
 discernible from the nest, between Cape Liverpool 
 and Cape Hay. 
 
 At 1 P.M. we made a further attempt to get up 
 Lancaster Sound, but had to relinquish it in con- 
 sequence of the severity of the gale. Orders were 
 given to put the helm up, and we are now running 
 back to our old fishing ground ofi* the middle ice. 
 I cannot get the '' Polaris" out of my head ; I feel 
 convinced, if we sought her, she would be found 
 not far from the entrance to Smith's Sound. This 
 morning, a large bear was seen swimming in the 
 water, the ship's course was directed towards it, 
 and a well-directed shot from the forecastle made it 
 a prize. It was an enormous brute, measuring 
 9 ft. 6 in. 
 
 Sunday, June 22nd. — Yesterday the sun had 
 attained its greatest northern declination. I at- 
 tempted to get its altitude at midnight, but it was 
 unfortunately obscured by clouds. 
 
 " It is an ill wind that blows no one any good." 
 Yesterday we were bewailing our hard fate at being 
 unable to proceed up the Sound in consequence of 
 the strong head winds which we encountered, com- 
 pelling us to return to our old fishing station, ex- 
 pecting to hear, that whilst we had been uselessly 
 expending our fuel in vain endeavours to get up 
 the Sound, the remainder of the ships would have 
 been actively employed amongst the whales. This
 
 144 Another Successful Day. 
 
 morning, liowever, we observed from the mast- 
 head the ivliole of the whaling iieet beset and help- 
 less, the recent strong winds having blown the ice 
 out from Lancaster Sound. We are the only ship 
 free, and if we had fine weather might take ad- 
 vantage of the utter helplessness of our consorts to 
 pick up a few fish. The " Victor ^^ joined us 
 during the evening, having been detained in Mel- 
 ville Bay since we last parted comjoany from her 
 a fortnight ago. 
 
 Monday, June 2ord. — Another exciting and suc- 
 cessful day. The wind, by noon, having subsided 
 to a fresh breeze, and we being in a large bight 
 formed by the ice, several whales were seen, "all 
 hands ^^ called, and the boats lowered away and in 
 pursuit. In a very short time " a fall '' was called, 
 and then another, and by six o^clock we had a 
 couple of fish alongside. One gave us a great deal 
 of trouble, having taken to the ice, with upwards of 
 a mile of line. It was some time before we could 
 get at it, and then it was a diSicult matter to kill 
 it. One of the boats (and its crew) was literally 
 drenched with blood ; so much so, that when I saw 
 it coming alongside, I imagined it was painted red, 
 and inquired what ship it belonged to. 
 
 The other ships are all in sight, though, -with the 
 exception of the " Yictor,^^ completely beset. It 
 must be very galling to their feelings to witness our 
 success without being^ able to share in it. At mid-
 
 The Whaling Fleet beset. 145 
 
 night I obtained the meridian altitude of the sun, 
 which was 6° 42' 30", or 6° 54' 45" corrected. 
 
 Wednesday , June 2oth. — Last night was one of 
 those beautiful evenings so frequently met with in 
 these regions. The sun was shining brightly, whilst 
 a light breeze scarcely ruffled the surface of the 
 water, which resembled molten lead, with immense 
 floes of ice floating on its bosom, whose sides were 
 plainly reflected in the element on which they rested. 
 The captain, who is possessed of remarkably quick 
 eyesight, rendered doubly acute by constant obser- 
 vation and frequent use of the telescope, had just 
 gone aloft, and I was admiring- the tall, tapering 
 spars of a whaler, so clearly and distinctly reflected 
 in the water, about a quarter of a mile ahead of us, 
 when I was awakened from my reverie by the skipper 
 hailing in a low voice, ordering top-gallant sails and 
 stay-sails to be set, and to turn ahead easily with 
 the screw, though to put no fuel on the fire, saying 
 at the same time he saw some fish about five miles 
 ahead. We glided almost imperceptibly past the 
 little vessel, whose shape and outline I had been 
 recently admiring, before the people on board of her 
 had discovered " what was in the wind." When 
 fairly ahead " all hands " were called and all our 
 boats quickly in pursuit. The light air had by this 
 time entirely subsided^ and the perfect calm which 
 ensued rendered it extremely difficult for our boats 
 to get within striking distance of the fish, who 
 
 L
 
 146 A Disappointment. 
 
 would both see and hear the approach of their 
 enemies. I was up in the crow's nest with the 
 captain (rather close quarters for two), watching 
 the movements of the boats, and we could plainly 
 perceive — and my companion took no pains to 
 conceal his vexation — their utter failure to make a 
 capture. At length, after three hours' hard and 
 untiring chasing, our energetic and hard-working 
 mate succeeded in getting fast, and about an hour 
 afterwards we heard the report of a gun from the 
 direction which two of our boats had taken to the 
 northward, and we plainly heard the faint cry of "A 
 fall ! " as it was wafted across the water. We on 
 board instantly repeated the cry, shouting, "A fall ! 
 a fall ! " But the skipper, with a most woe-begone 
 expression of countenance, informed us curtly that 
 it was no fall, that the fellow had missed. And so 
 it proved. Poor Tom Manson, in his excitement 
 and eagerness to strike an enormous whale, imagin- 
 ing he would not get another chance, had attempted 
 a long shot and had failed. The poor fellow's feel- 
 ings may be easily imagined. 
 
 As all the fish had apparently been frightened 
 away, it was deemed expedient to steam up to- 
 wards the mate, whose fish had sunk to the bottom 
 after being killed. The lines were brought to the 
 steam winch, and we soon hove him up alongside. 
 
 He proved to be a fine whale, and he had also 
 shown himself to he a very troublesome customer.
 
 State of the Slilp. 147 
 
 having; after he had received four harpoons, chased 
 one of our boats, whose crew had to pull for their 
 lives to escape the terrific blows which were falling 
 from the monster's tail, one blow being quite suffi- 
 cient to entirely demolish a boat. The operation 
 of flinching was not completed until 9*30 a.m., 
 when everyone was sent to bed. After all it makes 
 little difference in these regions what time one 
 retires, day and night are so much alike. 
 
 The state of the ship is now almost indescribable. 
 Cleanliness is decidedly not in the ascendant. 
 
 From the wheel aft to the taflfrail, piled up in 
 large stacks as high as the gunwale, is the whale- 
 bone taken from the recently caught fish ; and from 
 the wheel to the mainmast, on each side of the 
 quarter-deck, are between twenty and thirty tons of 
 coal, cleared out of the tanks in order to afibrd room 
 for the blubber. The only clear, not clean, part of 
 the ship is along each gangway, which must neces- 
 sarily be kept so for the purpose of flinching and 
 making-oft'. The captain says, " If we get another 
 fish or twa we shall be in a fearsome mess." It 
 seems impossible to be worse than wo are. If we 
 get any more fish we shall have to throw some of 
 our coal overboard, as there is certainly no more 
 room for any on our quarter-deck, the only available 
 part of the ship ; even the forohold has been cleared, 
 and coal has been indiscriminately shovelled into 
 the space vacated by the casks of proAasions, which
 
 148 Another ''Fair' called. 
 
 liavo been lashed to tlie bulwarks round the fore 
 part of the upper deck. 
 
 Thursday, June 26th. — We are without doubt 
 an extremely lucky ship. Last evening, whilst 
 cruising in company with another whaler, a fine j'is/i 
 was seen lying alongside the edge of an extensive 
 field of pack ice. We immediately despatched a 
 couple of boats in pursuit, whilst our consort sent 
 three. 
 
 After a short time the whale was seen to rise 
 close to one of the latter, but, wonderful to relate, 
 the harpooneer in charge, for some reason best 
 known to himself, failed to take advantage, and the 
 fish was not molested. 
 
 Again did the captain from the crowds nest hail 
 to say that the other ship^s boat would soon be 
 fast ; and again, to our great relief, was the oppor- 
 tunity missed. The next time the fish rose it was 
 close to one of our boats, in which was Jemmy Gray, 
 a sure and successful harpooneer, who, unlike his 
 opposite number in the other boats, quickly fired 
 and got fast. 
 
 " A fall" was called (it was about 10 p.m.), and 
 it was amusing to witness " all hands " rushing up 
 from below, scantily clothed, with their bundles in 
 their hands, and tumbling, some of them head 
 foremost, in their anxiety to get into the boats. I 
 jumped into one, having the mate as harpooneer, 
 and we all pulled vigorously towards the fast boat, 
 which was entirely beset by ice, the other ship's
 
 Killing a Whale. 149 
 
 boats slinking away on board their own vessel, 
 thoroughly crest-fallen — and well they might be, as 
 they had had two good chances of striking the 
 fish if they had liked to avail themselves of the 
 opportunity. 
 
 After laying on our oars for about ten minutes 
 off the edge of the floe, the fish rose not far from 
 us ; we pulled quickly up and gave it another 
 harpoon, two other boats coming up at the same 
 time also firing their harpoons into the unfortunate 
 beast. And now commenced the work of killing. 
 Several times did the mate, with wonderful address, 
 thrust the lance into the fish, pushing it in up to 
 the handle (a distance of six or seven feet) , we in 
 the boat all this time being fully occupied in 
 keeping close to our prey, but at the same time 
 clear of its tail, which came down repeatedly with 
 tremendous blows, drenching us with water. The 
 poor brute soon commenced to eject blood from 
 its blow-hole, with which we were copiously be- 
 spattered. At length the captain arrived on the 
 scene of action, armed with a new American patent 
 gun, loaded with an explosive dart, and two of 
 these being fired into the whale, it turned over on 
 its back dead, amidst our cheers. It was past 
 4 A.M. before we had finished flinching and retired 
 to rest. I was delighted beyond measure, in the 
 afternoon, when the captain announced his inten- 
 tion of going up Lancaster Sound, especially when 
 a hint was thrown out of visiting Boechey Island
 
 150 Monotony of Whale Fisldng. 
 
 and Port Leopold, and possibly going up Prince 
 Regent^s Inlet, as far as Fury Beach. With our 
 worthy skipper, to decide is to act, and we were 
 soon steaming to the northward, with every prospect 
 of being in a few hours on historical ground. There 
 is a great deal of excitement in getting whales, but 
 after all there is a great deal of sameness in this 
 said whale fishery, which after a time gets mono- 
 tonous. When once the fish has been killed and 
 towed alongside, there is the same process to go 
 through, which for a disinterested person soon loses 
 its only charm, that of novelty. 
 
 The description of one whale being caught, and 
 the subsequent operations, suffices for all. 
 
 Walrus Shootinsf.
 
 Chapter XI. 
 
 LANCASTER SOUND AXD BARROW STRAIT. 
 
 HID AY, June 27 th. — Much to my 
 vexation, this has been a thick, hazy 
 day, with the clouds hanging- so low as 
 totally at times to obscure all glimpses 
 of the land. At 8 a.m. we rounded Cape Liverpool, 
 having a brisk south-easterly breeze in our favour. 
 Passing a large glacier running down out of a deep 
 gorge to the water's edge, off which several bergs, 
 probably fragments from this very glacier, were 
 aground, we came abreast of Cape Hay, which 
 appeared steep and precipitous. At this place there 
 is a large loomery, and as we passed we saw a 
 countless number of these birds, both on the water 
 and on the wing ; but our time was too precious to 
 allow us to stop for the pm-pose of bagging a few of 
 these wild fowl, which afford such a pleasing variety 
 to our everlasting beef; so the looms were allowed 
 to remain unmolested, and in undisputed possession 
 of their sterile and apparently inaccessible home.
 
 152 Esquimaux seen. 
 
 About a mile to the westward of Cape Hay tlie 
 water appeared to shoal to about the same distance 
 off a point of land, off which were observed several 
 small icebergs aground. We passed the place so 
 rapidly that we were unable to obtain soundings. 
 At about 1 P.M. we were off the WooUaston Islands, 
 which are situated at the entrance of Navy Board 
 Inlet. The clouds lifting for a short time, revealed 
 to our view a party of about fifteen Esquimaux with 
 their dog sledges on the land ice, probably come from 
 Pond^s Bay, for the purpose of " trocking.^^ ^ 
 
 I was anxious to communicate with them, but 
 '' onward " was the order of the day, and they were 
 soon out of sight astern. 
 
 The land ice extended in some places to about 
 two miles off the shore, and directly across the 
 mouth of Navy Board Inlet, so that at present 
 the entire shore is unapproachable by boats. 
 
 We have seen to-day a greater variety of the 
 feathered denizens of these regions than we have 
 hitherto seen in one day. Looms {TJria Brun- 
 nichii) , as I have before stated, were observed in 
 myriads ; dovekies ( Uria grylle) were likewise in 
 great force; the rotges, or little auks {Alca alle) , 
 were also seen, but were left behind as we ad- 
 vanced up the Sound; the beautiful Arctic terns 
 
 * To " trock " is synonymous with to barter, and is an ex- 
 pression always used by the Greenland Esquimaux.
 
 Arctic Birds. 153 
 
 [Sterna arctica) flew droaniily past the ships in 
 flocks of ten or a dozcn^ whilst the delicate-looking • 
 ivory gull (Larus eburneus) and the graceful kitte- 
 wake [Larus tridactylus) hovered in our wake. 
 King eider ducks (^Somateria spedahilis) were 
 startled as they paddled along the edge of a floe, 
 and flew rapidly past the ship, whilst our constant 
 attendant and scavenger, the fulmar petrel [Pro- 
 cellaria glacialis) followed in our track, swooping 
 down and devouring everything of an edible nature 
 thrown overboard from the ship. 
 
 At six o'clock we made Capo Charles York, low- 
 looking land, and apparently covered with some 
 description of vegetation, it having a brownish- 
 green sort of colour, which was pleasing to the eye, 
 for we had seen nothing approaching verdure since 
 we bade farewell to the bonnie hills of Scotland. 
 Snow was lying in patches along the land, though 
 the hills were still wearing their winter garb. The 
 land ice, since leaving Navy Board Inlet, had 
 gradually diminished in breadth, until it disappeared 
 oS" Cape Charles York, from whence, however, as 
 we proceeded to the westward it again increased in 
 breadth, and we found the mouth of Admiralty Inlet 
 impenetrably closed by a heavy and formidable 
 barrier of ice. 
 
 This land ice appeared of great thickness and 
 very hummocky, I should think quite twenty feet 
 in thickness. At about seven, the sun shone out
 
 154 White Whales. 
 
 brightly, entirely dispersing the unpleasant mist by 
 which we had been troubled the whole day, but not 
 sufficiently to dissipate the dense clouds which 
 persistently hung over the land, concealing from my 
 view much that I was naturally anxious to see. 
 
 Shoals of white whales were seen gambolling like 
 porpoises along the floe edge, but they did not 
 approach sufficiently near for me to get a shot at 
 one. Sir Leopold McClintock succeeded in shoot- 
 ing one during his cruise in the "' Fox/' and speaks 
 of its flesh as being palatable, and preferable to 
 that of seal. By eleven we were off Cape Craufurd, 
 the coast line, owing to the provoking clouds, 
 being alone visible. 
 
 Jiine 28th. — I was awakened at half-past three 
 this morning by the cry of " a faU ! •'"' and the lo"vS^r- 
 ing away of the boats. Being surfeited with the 
 continual captm'e of fish, and feeling rather drowsy? 
 I determined to let the fish be taken without wit- 
 nessing its death struggle, and turning over on the 
 other tack, again courted sleep. But it was of no 
 use, for in a few minutes the steward came in, and 
 informed me of what I very well knew, that there 
 was " a fall." I told him I was delighted to hear 
 it, and again tried to get to sleep. After a lapse of 
 a few minutes, the skipper bounced into my cabin, 
 saying in a voice loud enough to wake the dead, 
 " Are you awake, captain ? " When I informed 
 him of the important fact that I was wide awake.
 
 Another Fish taken. 155 
 
 and had been so for some time, lie told me that 
 Davy Smith was fast to a fine whale. Seeing it was 
 hopeless to expect any more rest, I turned out, 
 di'essed, and went on deck in time to see the third 
 harpoon fired and the fish killed. 
 
 It was the same old story, so I shall refrain from 
 saying anything about it. At five o^clock wo sat 
 down to breakfast No. 1, and at half-past eight, 
 after the flinching was over, to No. 2. The fish 
 had evidently been struck before, having a scar on 
 its back and a healed wound in its flank, which 
 appeared to be caused by a harpoon. This makes 
 up over 100 tons — not bad luck, considering we are 
 only eight weeks from Dundee to-day. JS'ot two 
 months from England, and we are oS* Prince Regent 
 Inlet, with no ice in sight to the westward. I verily 
 believe we could easily this year make the north- 
 west passage and come out safely with our ship by 
 Behring^s Straits. The Aveather is most tantalizing, 
 a heavy fog hanging over the land, utterly screening 
 it from our view. At six this morning I obtained 
 good sights for double altitude and chronometer, 
 and also the meridian altitude at noon. We had 
 supposed, since eight o^clock, that we were steaming 
 up Prince Regent Inlet, and the captain went to 
 bed under that belief. I felt convinced we were 
 steering nearly a due west course, and told the 
 mate so, the compass being so sluggish, in conse- 
 quence of our proximity to the magnetic pole, as to
 
 156 A Narrow Escape. 
 
 be rendered nearly useless. At about four the fog 
 suddenly lifted, exposing to our view land along 
 the port beam, and precipitous cliffs immediately 
 ahead, and within half a mile ! It seemed a pro- 
 vidential escape ! My own predictions were fully 
 realized; we had been steering to the westward, 
 and the bold, steep land ahead was Leopold Island. 
 
 At six o'clock the sun broke out bright and 
 strong, so much so as to make it unpleasantly warm 
 walking the deck ; but the abominable fog still clung 
 to the land, and, as if sorry for indulging us with a 
 glimpse of Leopold Island, again wrapped its im- 
 pervious mantle around it. 
 
 7.30 P.M. — The fog cleared up, exposing to our 
 view the east land of North Somerset. No ice was 
 in sight, but a blink was observed ahead. The 
 land along the coast appears steep and precipitous, 
 though sloping down in places towards the water's 
 edge. It is lofty table-land, and its height I should 
 estimate to be from three to four hundred feet above 
 the level of the sea. The easternmost point of 
 Leopold Island is very abrupt, and from the south- 
 ward appears to be an overhanging cliff; so also 
 Cape Clarence. We passed close to Port Leopold, 
 where Sir James Ross wintered in '48 ; it seems a 
 snug* winter harbour, but, though I looked long and 
 attentively, I failed to see any indication of the 
 depot supposed to exist there. Cape Seppings, 
 which forms the southern extreme of Port Leopold,
 
 Thick Weather. 157 
 
 slopes clown to the water, and is hardly deserving 
 the name of a cape. The east point of Leopold 
 Island is a very prominent featm-e, and if named 
 would be of some use. 
 
 9 P.M. — Again we are enveloped in thick fog, and 
 I am thankful for the brief glimpse of land I have 
 had. A short distance from the north of Elwin 
 Bay we came up to the land ice, stretching across 
 the inlet ; fires were eased down, and we are again 
 under canvas. I am in hopes we may soon be 
 among fish, in which case I shall try and get the 
 skiff, and make a running survey of the coast of 
 North Somerset from, if possible, Fury Point to 
 Leopold Island ; it would not take me more than 
 four or five days if the weather were fine, and would 
 be to me a most interesting and delightful occupa- 
 tion — in fact, any change would be most agree- 
 able. The captain is already regretting coming 
 here, and thinks we should have done much better 
 in the middle ice. Man is never content — " the 
 more he has, the more he wants. ^' 
 
 The total absence of ice to the northward will 
 certainly render it almost impossible to fish should 
 a breeze spring up from that direction, for it would 
 cause such a sea to get up, as to make it dangerous 
 and almost useless to lower boats. We are now 
 feeling the motion of the ship more than we have 
 done since entering Baffin's Bay. 
 
 Sunday, June 29th. — A most disagreeable day.
 
 158 Rough Weather. 
 
 a fresh breeze blowing straight up the inlet, rais- 
 ing a nasty tumble of a sea, reminding me in an 
 unpleasant manner of the Atlantic. We have also 
 our usual accompaniment, a villainous mist which, 
 freezing on the ropes, causes a shower of ice every 
 time we tack, the rigging being perfectly encrusted 
 with a hoary coat. We have been cruising back- 
 wards and forwards along the land ice, which ex- 
 tends across the inlet from North Somerset to the 
 opposite shore, nothing being visible in conse- 
 quence of the thick weather which prevails. Taking 
 advantage of the utter inability to fish, everyone, 
 with the exception of the regular watch, has 
 devoted himself to the drowsy god, and I have 
 been left all day in sole possession of the cabin and 
 the greasy spot between the main mast and the 
 winch, which I have selected as my only place for 
 exercise. Two other whalers were observed at 
 intervals during the day. I am much afraid that 
 the ice will prevent us from advancing further up 
 the inlet, and the captain does not like the idea of 
 my leaving the ship, as he does not know when he 
 may be compelled to go out again. If we see no 
 fish, we shall certainly return to our old fishing 
 ground, the middle ice, between Cape Byam Martin 
 and Cape Graham Moore. 
 
 Monday, June oOth. — A lovely bright clear 
 morning. The sun, shining brilliantly over the 
 snow-clad table-land on each side of the inlet.
 
 Sour Grapes. 159 
 
 owing to the peculiar transparency of the atmo- 
 sphere, presented that lustrous effulgence rarely 
 witnessed out of these regions. Hardly a breath 
 of wind ruffled the surface of the clear, pellucid 
 water on which we rested, whilst from the south- 
 ward, stretching across from Batty Bay, where 
 Captain Kennedy, in the "' Prince Albert,^^ win- 
 tered in '51, to Port Bowen, where Sir Edward 
 Parry wintered in '24, was the land ice, an effectual 
 barrier to our further progress up the inlet. Sud- 
 denly all was activity and commotion on board ; 
 whales were seen, and all boats lowered and sent 
 away in pursuit, the " Camperdown'' following 
 our example, and in less than a couple of minutes 
 no less than sixteen boats dotted the water, de- 
 stroying the effect of the hitherto unbroken and 
 fairy-like scene. There was no time to be wasted, 
 for the " Camperdown'a '' crew appeared to bo the 
 leading one. At about eight, we observed one of 
 her boats to be fast, and ours was, therefore, re- 
 called and hoisted up after being away about two 
 hours ; our consolation — a very poor one — being 
 that it was only a small fish, " no larger,'' as one of 
 the harpooneers informed me, " than a sardine." 
 
 Tuesday, July \st. — 2.30 a.m. — Just returned 
 from a most successful foray amongst the huge 
 mysticeti. Having- fortified the inner man, I shall 
 attempt to detail the proceedings that have occu- 
 pied our time for the last seventeen hours. At
 
 160 I am appointed Boat- Steer er. 
 
 about half-past nine yesterday forenoon some 
 whales were seen, from the crow's nest, about five 
 miles ofFj and a couple of boats were sent away to 
 try their luck. Shortly more whales were seen, 
 and all boats were ordered away in chase. We 
 were at this time nearly abreast of Leopold Har- 
 bour, steaming out of the inlet on our way to the 
 middle ice outside Lancaster Sound. Immediately 
 whales were seen the engines were, of course, 
 stopped. One of the boat-steerers having severely 
 injured his foot the day before, the mate ofi'ered the 
 post to me, an offer I gladly accepted, as a means 
 of passing the time and indulging in the excite- 
 ment of whaling. We pulled steadily for at least 
 six miles without seeing anything, the ship by that 
 time being hull down astern. It was a calm, 
 lovely day, with bright sunshine. Soon the blast 
 of a fish was seen, followed by several others ; but 
 being a clear day, our approach, when near, was 
 always observed, and down they would go, with a 
 tremendous splash of their huge tails. At about 
 twelve, Jemmy Gray — I have quite adopted the 
 custom on board the " Arctic," and always allude 
 to the harpooneers by their Christian names — got 
 fast to a fish. Leaving a couple of boats to assist 
 him, the remainder dispersed in various directions, 
 chasing whales, all of which seemed of a small size. 
 It was nearly two o'clock when I saw a heavy blast 
 some distance ahead, accompanied by a small one.
 
 Awkward Predicament. IGl 
 
 which, in duty bound, I reported to my harpooneer, 
 who pronounced it to be a " monstrous big fish with 
 its sucker'^ (joung one) . Away we went in chase, 
 another boat in company. Having judged, from 
 observing the way in which she was heading, which 
 way she would rise, we lay on our oars and waited 
 for her. Our plan was skilfully ordered, for she 
 rose close to Harky Hunter, who, pulling quietly 
 up, got his harpoon in, we all yelling at the top of 
 our voices, " A fall ! a fall ! " But though so easily 
 struck, she was not so easily killed, and proved 
 herself to be a most troublesome and awkward 
 customer. After about three-quarters of an hour's 
 hard pulling, chasing her round and round the fast 
 boat, the men being so fatigued as nearly to drop 
 at their oars, we succeeded in getting close up and 
 gave her another harpoon ; immediately on receipt 
 of which she flew off at a terrific rate, towing the 
 two boats at least six knots an hour, and taking the 
 line out with such velocity that water had con- 
 tinually to be thrown over the lines and over the 
 bollard head, round which three turns had been 
 taken, the bows of the boat being enveloped in 
 smoke caused by the friction. We had a very near 
 shave one time of being taken down altogether. 
 The fish having stopped to blow for a few minutes, 
 the line, which, from the extreme friction, had 
 burnt a deep scar round the bollard, had cooled and 
 adhered to the wood. The fish suddenly took it 
 
 M
 
 1()2 Toiced hij a Mlude. 
 
 into lier head to go straight down : the line would 
 not render, the bows of the boat were dragged 
 under water, and the water came rushing in over 
 the harpooneer. This saved us, for the water 
 lubricating the line, allowed it to render, and the 
 boat righted, though not before a large quantity of 
 water had been shipped. We should, indeed, have 
 been placed in a most dangerous and unpleasant 
 predicament, for had the line not rendered, nothing 
 could have saved the boat from being taken down, 
 and our chance of escape would have been very 
 small. The other fast boat was some distance from 
 us, and they would have thought twice before cut- 
 ting their line, and so losing a valuable fish, to 
 come to our assistance, the other boajis being miles 
 away. Our stroke oar and line manager, a power- 
 fully-built Shetland man, standing about six feet 
 two inches, commonly called " Big Johnnie," was 
 unable to swim, so that altogether we should have 
 been in a pretty pickle. It was five o^clock before 
 any boat came to our assistance, when five more 
 harpoons were buried in the monster^s flesh, and 
 several lances plunged in, but all, apparently to no 
 avail, — the brute would not die. Three rockets 
 were also fired into the unfortunate animal, that 
 clung to life with such tenacity. Eventually the 
 ship came up and took the lines from one of the 
 boats on board, and yet, singular to relate, the fish 
 actually towed the ship and seven boats at the rate
 
 In Barron- Strait. lOo 
 
 of tlirco miles an hour^ tlie water in wliicli we were 
 towed being coloured with blood ; but her furious 
 struggles gradually weakened^ loss of blood and the 
 powerful efforts she had made to free herself, neces- 
 sarily caused great exhaustion, and at nine o^clock 
 a boat was able to come up, and, firing a rocket, 
 succeeded in giving the coup cle grace with a lance, 
 and she expired amidst the cheers of all hands. 
 We had been over six hours fast to this fish, during 
 which time we had been towed a distance of up- 
 wards of fifteen miles. Cape Hurd, which was not in 
 sight when we left the ship, being' distinctly visible 
 not many miles on our starboard bow, the fish 
 having headed up the sound. I can safely say, if 
 any one asks me how I went to Barrow Strait, 
 that I was towed there by a whale. No sooner 
 was the fish killed than we were able to turn our 
 attention to others round us, and three more small 
 ones wore struck. I was not sorry to see the 
 bucket up on board, and at half-past 11 p.m. we 
 all returned to the ship, hungry and tired, having 
 been away, and therefore famishing, for fourteen 
 hours. I shall very soon reach my berth, and have 
 no doubt of enjoying a good night^s rest; — four 
 fish in one day is not a bad day's work. The little 
 " sucker" that was with our big fish was seen in its 
 company for about half an hour, coming up to blow 
 every time its mother rose for that purpose, and 
 then suddenly disappeared after the mother had
 
 1G4 A Whale Run Down. 
 
 given some unusually violent convulsions with its 
 tail and fins. I am told that a whale having its 
 young one in company will, when struck, invariably 
 kill it if she gets a chance, which accounts for the 
 disappearance of our small one. 
 
 3 p.'M. — Flinching was completed about eight 
 o'clock, and everybody being thoroughly done up, 
 went to their beds, where they are to bo allowed to 
 remain undisturbed until four o'clock. The fish 
 appear to know this, for in the forenoon there were 
 a number of them playing round the ship in all 
 directions, and we actually struck one which was 
 laying ahead of the ship, with our fore foot, appa- 
 rently without the effect of frightening it away, for 
 it rose shortly after close to us ; the captain, how- 
 ever, very properly, will not call the men up until 
 they have had their sleep. Some time ago I asked 
 the captain if he had ever known or heard of a case 
 in which a ship had come into collision with a whale, 
 and he answered in the negative. Such an event 
 cannot, therefore, be of frequent occurrence, though 
 it is mentioned by the historian of Frobisher's third 
 voyage to the north-west in 1578, that one of his 
 ships, the " Salamander," " being under both her 
 corses and bonets, happened to strike a great whale 
 with her full stemme with such a blow that the ship 
 stoode still, and stirred neither forward nor back- 
 ward. The whale thereat made a great and ugly 
 noyse, and cast up his body and taile, and so went
 
 ^■i Tale from Froldslier. 165 
 
 under water." A few days after they fell in with 
 a dead whale, supposed to have been the one struck 
 by the " Salamander." The only part of this story 
 which appears doubtful is that in which it says the 
 whale made a noise, as no sound except their blast 
 is ever heard from them when struck by a harpoon ; 
 the simple striking of a whale with the stem of a 
 ship, and such a ship as Frobisher had in his expe- 
 dition, would not in my opinion cause its death, as 
 experience shows the enormous amount of killing 
 some of them require. 
 
 The men were turned out at four, having an hour 
 given them to collect their scattered senses and to 
 get some breakfast, dinner, or tea (it is impossible 
 to say by which name this meal ought to be called), 
 and were then set to work '' making off" the 
 blubber of the last five fish that were caught. 
 Words cannot describe the filthy state of the 
 ship. Casks of provisions are lashed to the bul- 
 warks round the fore part of the upper deck, so 
 as to make room in the fore hold for coal, which 
 has been indiscriminately shovelled into the space 
 vacated. The whole of the quarter-deck is covered 
 with coal and whalebone ; saw-dust is sprinkled 
 everywhere to prevent the men slipping in the 
 slimy matter with which the deck is coated, and 
 this, combined with the grease and coal-dust, clogs 
 and sticks to the soles of oiu* boots, rendering it 
 quite impossible to avoid bringing it down into the
 
 166 Irregular Living. 
 
 cabin. Wlicn speaking of wliales they must always 
 be called '' fisli/' notliing else in whaling parlance 
 coming under that designation. This I found out 
 the other day on seeing the blast of a narwhal, and 
 exclaiming, "There is a fish." "ISTo, sir," said 
 Tom, the second mate, " that's nae fish, only a 
 unie." We are cruising oQ' and on between Leo- 
 pold Island and Cape York, at the entrance of 
 Prince Regent's Inlet. Now that we are ready for 
 fish, they have made themselves scarce. 
 
 Wednesday , Juhj 2nd. — Flinching was not com- 
 pleted until eight o'clock this morning, when the 
 watch was set. The state of irregularity in which 
 we live is positively delicious. I never know when 
 I am to have anything to eat, nor even when I am 
 to get any sleep. On some days we breakfast at 
 5 A. M., on others at 5 p.m., and the remaining meals 
 are served in the same charming irregularity. We 
 are now again going up Prince Regent's Inlet, the 
 land on each side barely discernible on account of 
 the mist. 
 
 Thursday, July Src?. — This morning I was awak- 
 ened early by the captain coming into my cabin to 
 tell me that the "Esquimaux" and the "Narwhal" 
 were both coming up the inlet ; and about eight, as 
 we were sitting down to breakfast, we received a 
 \dsit from Captain McLellan, of the latter ship, 
 from whom we learnt with surprise that the two 
 ships had only been released from their icy bond- 
 age the previous Saturday, having been beset ever
 
 Dangerous Position of the " Nanclud/' 107 
 
 since we saw them off Cape Byam Martin, whence 
 they had drifted to the southward of Cape Bowen. 
 The '''Narwhal'^ fared badly, having received some 
 very severe nips; indeed, at one time there was 
 little prospect of saving the ship^ the floes having 
 been squeezed and pressed up on each side as 
 high as the gunwale, so that they were enabled 
 to walk straio'ht out on the ice. Provisions 
 and men's bags had been landed on the floe, toge- 
 ther with the boats, and during four days they 
 were hourly expecting to witness the total destruc- 
 tion of their ship. All this time was of course a 
 dead loss to them as regards fishing. There was 
 a very nasty tumble of a sea last night, which has 
 now subsided, though, in consequence of a dense 
 fog, nothing is distinguishable. 
 
 Looms.
 
 Chapter XII. 
 
 PORT LEOPOLD. 
 
 RID AY evening, July ■itli. — At three 
 o'clock yesterday afternoon, in con- 
 sequence of our inability to fish, owing 
 to the wind and high sea, the captain 
 determined to put into Port Leopold to wait for 
 fine weather and to fill up with water. I was 
 delighted when I heard the orders given to get up 
 steam, and for the course to be altered to the north- 
 ward. We steered close along the eastern shore 
 of North Somerset, the land rising steep and pre- 
 cipitous, and giving one almost the idea of passing 
 along the side of a huge fortified wall, with em- 
 brasures about a third of the way from the bottom, 
 and regular buttresses along its face. It seems 
 difiicult to account for the peculiar formation of 
 these buttresses, which are arranged so metho- 
 dically ; but I should suppose it to be attributable 
 to the action of the weather on the soft sandstone
 
 Whaler Point — Port Leopold. 1G9 
 
 of which the cliff is composed. At about five 
 o'clock we rounded Cape Seppings, and shortly 
 afterwards made fast to the land-ice which stretched 
 across the mouth of the harbour, just inside the 
 two points. On the right hand, as we entered, 
 was Whaler Point, where we observed the skeleton 
 framework of a house, a boat turned bottom up, and 
 numerous casks scattered about and covering a 
 large extent of ground. 
 
 My thoughts went back to 1848 and 1849, 
 when Sir James Ross wintered in this very place 
 ^vith the '^ Enterprise " and ^'Investigator.'' The 
 house was erected by his orders, and the provisions 
 were left as a depot for the relief of the ill-fated 
 crews of the " Erebus " and '^ Terror." Sir James 
 Ross entered the harbour of Port Leopold on the 
 11th of September, 1848, having found a greater 
 quantity of ice in Barrow Strait than had ever 
 before been seen at that period of the season. 
 Had the two ships not got into port on that day, it 
 would have been impossible to have done so any 
 day afterwards, the main pack, during the night, 
 having closed -the land, and completely sealed the 
 mouth of the harbour. Sir James Ross then pro- 
 ceeded to land a good supply of provisions upon 
 Whaler Point, in which service the steam launch, 
 brought out by the " Investigator," proved of 
 great value, conveying a large cargo herself and 
 to\ving two deeply-laden cutters through the sheets
 
 170 Sir James Iioss's Exi^edition. 
 
 of young- ice wlaicli covered the harbour. With- 
 out the aid of steam a boat could not have moved 
 her own length. Sir Jam'es also caused a house to 
 be built of spare spars and covered with housing 
 cloths, and on his departure he left, besides the 
 provisions, the " Investigator's^' steam launch, 
 lengthened seven feet, and made capable of con- 
 veying the whole of Sir John Franklin's party to 
 the whale-ships. Sir James Ross's expedition was 
 in Port Leopold from September 11th, 1848, until 
 August 28th, 1849. In this desolate spot three of 
 the greatest of our modern Arctic navigators thus 
 found shelter for nearly twelve months. Besides 
 Sir James himself, the discoverer of the ]N"orth 
 Magnetic Pole, there were McClure, the future dis- 
 coverer of a North-west Passage, and McClintock, 
 the discoverer of the fate of Franklin. On Sep- 
 tember 21st, 1851, Mr. Kennedy, of the '' Prince 
 Albert," lauded and passed the night in the steam 
 launch, marching thence, with a sledge, to his 
 winter quarters further south, in Batty Bay. He 
 was there again on July 27th, 1852, while on his 
 long sledge journey with Lieut. Bellot, round North 
 Somerset, when he deposited a record. The place 
 was afterwards again visited by McClintock on 
 August 19th, 1858, when in command of the 
 " Fox" — the final expedition sent out in search 
 of Sir John Franklin. He found that the ice had 
 been pressed in upon the low shingle point, forcing
 
 Records left bij the " Foxy 171 
 
 the launcli up before it, and leaving- lier broadside 
 on to the beach, with both bows stove in, and in 
 want of considerable repairs ; but the means were 
 all at hand for executing them. He left a whale- 
 boat, and added a record of his proceedings to the 
 many that had accumulated here during the ten 
 years between 1848 and 1858. In that interval 
 several exploring- ships, em|)loyed in the search for 
 Franklin, had touched at Port Leopold as they 
 passed up or down Barrow Strait or Prince Re- 
 gent Inlet. McClintock found the harbour entirely 
 clear of ice. 
 
 As I was looking towards Whaler Point, and 
 thinking over its past history, my reverie was 
 suddenly disturbed by the captain, with whom I 
 went on shore. On landing, I found a tin cylinder, 
 red with rust, lying on the beach, which I rightly 
 guessed to contain the records. I picked it up 
 and strolled away, eventually returning on board. 
 On opening the cylinder I found a roll of paper 
 neatly marled^ over, but thoroughly saturated with 
 water, and on unwrapping the outside sheet there 
 was another as neatly put up as the first, on which 
 I could just make out, in Sir Leopold McClintock's 
 handwi'iting : — 
 
 ' "To marl" is a nautical expression signifying to tie up 
 with twine or rope in a neat and careful manner.
 
 172 Records left hy the " Foxr 
 
 " Records/' " 1849." 
 
 '' Fox.'' 
 '' lOth August, 1858." 
 
 " F. L. McClintock." 
 
 Inside were the older records, but so thorouglily 
 soaked as to render it almost impossible to open 
 them without tearing, the writing being nearly 
 illegible. I resolved, after some consideration, to 
 dry and preserve the records, and to bring them 
 home, leaving a notice to that effect in the tin 
 cylinder, which I caused to be soldered up and 
 secured with wire to the centre support of the 
 house erected by Sir James Ross. My chief reason 
 for coming to this decision was the risk of these 
 interesting relics being destroyed or thrown away 
 by future crews of whalers who may land here. 
 The documents, which have now been delivered 
 over to the Hydrographer of the Admiralty, in the 
 order of their dates, commence with three signed 
 by Sir James Ross, and dated August, 1849. Here 
 is an extract from them : — 
 
 " It is earnestly desired that any persons (not in 
 absolute distress) who may find the stores and 
 provisions landed here by H. M. ships ^ Enter- 
 prise ' and ' Investigator,' will leave them undis- 
 turbed." 
 
 Next was a record, dated August 13th, 1850, 
 left by Mr. Saunders of H. M. S. '' North Star;"
 
 State of the Stores. 173 
 
 and another dated August 28th, 1850, left by 
 Captain Forsyth, R. N., of Lady Franklin's search- 
 ing vessel, " Prince Albert." The next was a 
 record deposited by Mr. Kennedy, commanding 
 Lady Franklin's searching vessel, " Prince Albert," 
 during 1851-52. She had wintered in Batty 
 Bay, on the west side of Prince Regent Inlet, and 
 her commander, with a travelling part}^, visited 
 Port Leopold on July 27th, 1852. The last record 
 is that deposited by Sir Leopold McClintock on 
 August 19th, 1858 ; from which the following is an 
 extract : — 
 
 " After taking on board some coke, lemon juice, 
 and soap, we shall proceed this evening upon our 
 voyage. The provisions in casks and canisters 
 appear to be sound. I leave a whale boat here as 
 a resource for any retreat party from this vessel, 
 in consequence of the bad state of the launch, and 
 shall not leave a boat at Fury Beach." 
 
 The provisions on shore were still in a wonder- 
 ful state of preservation, the biscuits being as 
 ■ good as when baked, and the tobacco and choco- 
 late quite fresh after twenty-five years. It seems 
 desirable that, when any of these stores are used 
 by the whalers, a correct account of what has been 
 taken from this depot of public property should 
 be furnished to the Admiralty. 
 
 There were five graves at the head of the har- 
 bour, of one oJ05cer and four men belonging to the
 
 174 Tlie Graves at Port Leopold. 
 
 "Enterprise" and ''Investigator/^ who died during 
 the ^\dnter of 18 i8-49. The officer was Mr. Henry 
 Mathias, the assistant surgeon of the " Enterprise/^ 
 who died on the 15th of June, 1849, aged 27, of 
 consu-inption, a disease which had been deeply rooted 
 in his constitution before he left England. Sir 
 James Ross spoke of him as " a promising young 
 man, of great amiability of disposition, universally 
 beloved and regretted.^' The men were James 
 Gray, David Jenkins, and Edward Binskin, able 
 seamen of the " Enterprise," and William Grundy 
 and Thomas Coombs of the '' Investigator." At 
 the foot of the grave of Coombs, who belonged to 
 the carpenter's crew, there was a bottle containing 
 a document with the following touching bu.t rather 
 quaint inscription : — 
 
 " Near this spot lay the remains of Thomas 
 Coombs (late belonging to the carpenter's crew of 
 Her Majesty's ship 'Investigator'), who died on 
 board that ship on the 27th day of October, 1848, 
 after a lingering illness of three months, which he 
 bore with Christian fortitude. And I sincerely 
 hope, should any Christian fall in with this, that 
 he will leave his body rest in peace and undis- 
 turbed, and oblige his late chum and messmate, 
 Charles Harris, A.B." 
 
 All the inscriptions were neatly engraved on 
 plates of brass, which were nailed on the head 
 boards. The boards were of two-inch wood, and,
 
 Good sport. 175 
 
 though bleached white from the effects of weather^ 
 were in a good state of preservation. They were 
 in the usual shape of a grave stone. 
 
 In the evening of the same day^ taking my gun, 
 and accompanied by the mate and steward, I went 
 away to get some eider duck, flocks of which were 
 flying about. We succeeded in shooting eleven 
 king ducks, four long-tailed ducks, and several 
 looms and dovekeys. The long-tailed duck (^Fu- 
 Ivjula glacialis) is much smaller than the eider, 
 being about the size of a widgeon, and having much 
 the same sort of plumage, but with long tail feathers 
 ending in a point like the boatswain bird. Having 
 got a good bag, I was anxious to obtain a view by 
 climbing the hill on the south side of the hai-bour, 
 which is about 600 feet high.^ I induced my com- 
 panions to come with me, though we found the 
 ascent to be more difficult than it appeared, being 
 
 ^ Sir John lio.ss climbed to tlie top of tliis liill, on the •ind 
 of September, 1832, at the time when he was vainly attempt- 
 ing to get out into Baffin's Bay, and was obliged to retnni and 
 wintei' at Fury Beach (see " Xarrative of his Second Voyage," 
 ]). 665). But it is not generally known that he then put u tin 
 case under a heap of stones, which was never found; although 
 the officers and crews of the " Enterprise " and " Investigator " 
 were here for so many months in 1848-9. In the tin case Sir 
 flohn deposited a copy of verses which he had composed fur 
 the occasion, and in 18.52 he gave a copy of them to ^Ir. .lolni 
 Barrow, who has kindly forwarded it to me. A poetical elFu-
 
 176 Vieic of Beechey Island. 
 
 very steep. The side of the hill is covered with 
 layers of a slaty stone, having the appearance of 
 closely packed tiles. From the summit we had a 
 glorious view up Barrow Strait, which, however, 
 seemed to be blocked with ice. The opposite shore 
 was distinctly visible, and we could plainly see, what 
 I imagined to be Beechey Island and its surrounding 
 land. It being 3 a.m., the morning sun was shining 
 brightly, causing the land to stand out in clear and 
 bold relief. Our descent was much more rapid than 
 our laborious climb up the hill. Following the 
 mate's example, we sat down on the frozen snow, 
 and then slid the whole way to the bottom — a quick 
 mode of progression, though desperately fatal to 
 one's clothing. We returned on board at four in 
 the morning, pretty well worn out by our day's 
 exertions. 
 
 sion, at such a temperature, by so old a navigator, is worthy 
 
 of being preserved. 
 
 " Far as the eye can reach and all around 
 
 Is one vast icy solitude profound. 
 
 On snow-clad ground, in silent stillness, sleep 
 
 The weary crew ; no soothing vapours steep 
 
 The rocks with freshness, not an herb is there, 
 
 Xor shrub, nor bush, — but, desolate and bare, 
 
 It seems as if these regions, by the will 
 
 Of Heaven transfix'd, had all at once stood still; 
 
 And the proud waves, beneath the fatal blow. 
 
 Had spread into a field of lifeless snow." 
 
 John Ross, Sept. 1832.-
 
 Sir James Rosses ^'' House.'" 177 
 
 The " Esquimaux " whaler had meanwhile arrived 
 in Port Leopold, and made fast to the land ice close 
 to the " Arctic/^ On the 4th I again went on 
 shoi'e, and had a good look round. The house, of 
 which only the framework is standing, is about 
 thirty-five feet long by twenty-five feet, and it 
 could easily and expeditiously, by means of a few 
 old sails, bo made habitable. The flag-staff had 
 been blown down, and was lying uninjured on the 
 shingle. The launch was a perfect wreck, but the 
 whale boat appeared sound, and could easily be 
 made seaworthy. There were about two hundred 
 and thirty casks of different sizes and descriptions 
 lying about in all directions, suggesting the idea 
 that they had originally been very carelessly landed. 
 But their positions may probably be attributed to 
 the bears, whose inquisitive habits are well known ; 
 the marks of their teeth and claws being visible On 
 several casks. Much of the biscuit was in a de- 
 cayed state, though some was perfectly good. The 
 whole of the tinned meats were in good order, as 
 also were the sugar, chocolate, and tobacco; tea 
 and raisins quite perished ; peas in fair, and flour 
 in a very good state. The blankets were almost as 
 good as new, and I was much astonished at the 
 remarkable state of preservation of the rope, which 
 had been exposed to the weather for twenty-five 
 years. It was bleached perfectly white, resembling- 
 Manilla rope, but on opening the strands the heart 
 
 N
 
 178 Sta te of th e Pro v is ion s . 
 
 Avas quite sound. This speaks volumes for the pre- 
 servative qualities of an Arctic climate. There 
 were two large heaps of coke near the depot. 
 
 Port Leopold is, without exception, the most 
 barren and dreary-looking spot it was ever my lot 
 to behold ; no signs of verdure anywhere, nothing 
 but sandstone, snow, and ice. Occasionally, in some 
 little sheltered crevice, I came across a bit of green 
 moss or pretty little pink flowers growing in small 
 patches, but not in sujB&cient quantity to relieve the 
 desolate sterility which everywhere prevailed. I 
 brought away with me, as a memento of my visit, 
 a rusty sailor's knife, with a buckhorn handle, having 
 a hole through the haft for a shackle, such as is 
 always carried by a man-of-war's man, which I 
 picked up close to the shed. I wonder if its former 
 owner is still alive ! 
 
 In the afternoon I went on shore with the arti- 
 ficial horizon, and obtained a good set of sights, 
 and a round of angles ; but smoke issuing from the 
 ship's funnel warned me of our approaching depar- 
 ture, and I had to hurry on board. We steamed 
 out of Port Leopold at 3.30 p.m., and once more 
 beo-an the look-out for whales. 
 
 Saturday, July bth. — The " Arctic" is decidedly 
 a lucky ship, and manages to tumble on the fish in 
 a most remarkable manner. Last night at twelve 
 o'clock, as I was enjoying my last stroll, up and 
 down my greasy promenade, prejiaratory to turning
 
 My First Fast Fish. 179 
 
 in, the captain suddenly hailed from the nest, saying 
 he saw a number of fish about ten miles ahead, 
 ordering all hands to be turned out, and get their 
 coffee in readiness for a start, which took place at 
 about half-past twelve. A boat-steerer being on 
 the sick list, Davy Deuchars, a loose harpooneer, re- 
 quested my services ; and away we all went. After 
 pulling for about six miles, a beautiful morning, 
 with a bright sun, and the water as smooth as glass, 
 we came up to the fish, and before long heard a 
 shot fired and " A fall ! " cried, and Bob Gordon 
 was fast to an enormous whale. At about six 
 o'clock a fish was close to our boat, which after a 
 few starts we were fortunate enough to strike, and 
 in our turn called " A fall ! a fall ! " She took out 
 a little over two hundred fathoms of line, when the 
 mate coming up to our assistance fired a second 
 harpoon, and succeeded in killing her in about an 
 hour's time. Hauling our lines in and flaking them 
 away, we got up to our fish, and lashing its two 
 fins together, roused the tail up to the bows of our 
 boat, and pulled stern foremost towards the ship, 
 which was nearly hull down in the distance. We 
 were all naturally much elated at our success. It 
 was my first fast fish, and it was also our har- 
 pooneer's first paying fish, he never before having 
 harpooned one over six feet, no whale under that 
 size being " payable." Of all the uninteresting 
 and toilsome duties connected with whaling, there
 
 180 A Successful Day. 
 
 is nothing, I think, can beat our morning's work, 
 which was the laborious duty of towing a dead 
 whale for more than eio-ht hours. We did not o-et 
 alongside the ship until eleven o'clock this fore- 
 noon. On arriving we found that they had just 
 succeeded in killing the first whale struck, which, 
 like the one we got a few days ago, had been 
 amazingly troublesome, having towed the ship and 
 five boats some distance. They were nearly nine 
 hours killing her, but she proved to be a perfect 
 monster, larger than any we have hitherto taken. 
 Tom Webster, the second mate, was also fortunate 
 enough to get a couple of small whales. Four fish 
 again at a fall, we are. indeed lucky; although the 
 one large one is worth about twice as much as the 
 three others. We commenced flinching a little be- 
 fore twelve, which lasted until 7.20 p.m. At eight 
 all hands were sent to bed, and I am again appa- 
 rently in sole possession of the ship. As it is 
 now nearly 10.30 p.m., and I have not been in bed 
 since yesterday morning, and have only had three 
 hours' sleep during the last sixty-four, I shall follow 
 the good example set by everyone, and also retire. 
 Sunday, July Qth. — I am becoming rapidly con- 
 scious of the fact that I am gradually falling into 
 the insidious clutches of that enemy which has for 
 so long successfully attacked and held sway over 
 my shipmates and everything on board the ^^ Arctic," 
 — that irresistible and encroachino- foe — dirt !
 
 Volunteers for an Arctic Expedition. 181 
 
 Yesterday^ when I returned from our long chase 
 after the whales, I was in a most deplorable state^ 
 for the boats are, if such a thing- can be possible, in 
 a more filthy condition than the ship, and I find 
 that my clothes are all impregnated with a con- 
 glomeration of grease, tar, and coal dust, and other 
 things too numerous to mention. We were all 
 considerably refreshed by a good night's rest, and 
 I felt very loth to turn out this morning when called 
 by the steward, especially as he had not then had 
 time to light the fire, and there was a fresh cold 
 wind blowing from the westward, the efiect of 
 which, in consequence of the spanker being set — 
 which acts as a famous, though unpleasant, wind- 
 sail — was distinctly felt in our cabins. It required 
 no small amount of resolution to plunge from a 
 nice warm bed into water at freezing temperature. 
 The sun was shining brightly, but the wind was so 
 cold that I noticed a canvas jacket, which had gone 
 through a nominal process of washing, and was 
 hung in the rigging to dry, in less than twenty 
 minutes frozen as hard as a board, while its lower 
 edge was adorned with a beautiful fringe of icicles. 
 
 Frequently, while away in the whale boats, I have 
 conversations with the men, generally relative to 
 the Arctic regions, and it is extremely gratifying 
 to learn that in case of a Government expedition 
 leaving England next year, more than a third of 
 this ship's company have professed themselves
 
 182 Capture of our Twentieth Whale. 
 
 ■s\dlling' to accompany it; and sliould such a de- 
 sirable event take place^ it will be well to know 
 wliere to get volunteers, as I could pick out at least 
 twenty strong, hard-working hands from this crew 
 that, once set going, would never rest until they 
 had reached the ]N^orth Pole. 
 
 At half-past eleven this forenoon more whales 
 were seen, and all hands sent in pursuit, and were 
 not long away before "a fall" was called. This 
 makes our twentieth whale and about one hundred 
 and seventy tons of oil. I much fear that my 
 chances of going north will diminish in proportion 
 to the rapidity with which the fish are caught. A 
 hundred tons more and the ship will be full. 
 
 ""^ ^5r r^ 
 
 Lonfr-talled Duck*
 
 Meeting of "Arctic"' and " Ravenscraig " off Cape Craufurd. 
 
 CnAHTER XIII. 
 
 THE "POLARIS" EXPEDITION. 
 
 OXDAY, July 7th. — " One never knows 
 "svliat the morrow may bring fortli " is 
 a saying frequently verified^ and seldom 
 in a more surprising manner tlian by 
 the events which have happened during the last 
 twenty-four hours. I had just gone to bed last 
 night when the captain came down and informed 
 me that the " Ravenscraig " was in sight, steaming 
 up the Sound. We were at this time off Admiralty
 
 184 
 
 The Crew of the " Polaris^ 
 
 Inlet on our way to the middle ice. As the infor- 
 mation was not very interesting to me^ I endeavoured 
 to get to sleep^ when the engines were stopped, and 
 I heard the cajjtain hailing. Suddenly I caught 
 the sound of the word " Polaris " and " survivors/' 
 which caused me to jump speedily out of bed; but 
 before I could dress, a messenger had been sent 
 down to tell me that a portion of the crew of the 
 " Polai-is " had been picked up by the " Ravens- 
 craigj" and that our captain had gone on board. 
 Hastily dressing, I lost no time in following him, 
 and on the quarter-deck of the '' Ravenscraig " was 
 introduced to Captain Buddington and Dr. Bessels 
 of the ill-fated exploring ship. The news that we 
 heard at Lievely, relative to a part of the crew of 
 the " Polaris " having been picked up off the coast 
 of Labrador, was now corroborated, eighteen ^ of 
 them having been drifted off on a floe ; and the 
 
 ^ Namely : • 
 
 Jl. Tyson (2nd captain). 
 *2. F. Meyer (asst. to 
 
 Dr. Bessels). 
 }3. Jolm Herron. 
 +4. J. W. C. Kruger. 
 J5. W. Jackson (cook). 
 *6. W. Lindermann. 
 |7. Peter Johnson. 
 *S. F. Anthing. 
 19. G. W. Linquist. 
 
 10. 
 
 Fred. Jamka. 
 
 
 11. 
 
 Hans. ^ 
 
 
 12. 
 
 Han's wife. 
 
 
 13. 
 
 Joe. 
 
 X 
 
 14. 
 
 Hannah. 
 
 3 
 
 15. 
 
 Puney. 
 
 02 
 
 16. 
 
 Succi. 
 
 K 
 
 17. 
 
 Augustina. 
 
 •*- 
 
 18. 
 
 Tobias. 

 
 Substitute for Tobacco. 185 
 
 remaining fourteen ^ having passed the winter of 
 1872-73 near their sliip^ to the northward of Cape 
 Alexander, in the entrance of Smith Sound. The 
 vessel herself was run on shore. On the 4th of 
 June the party of fourteen left for the south in a 
 couple of boats of their own construction, flat- 
 bottomed scows made from the bulwarks and other 
 timber, and were picked up by the "Ravenscraig^^"^ 
 25 miles S.E. of Cape York on the 2ord, having by 
 that time only two or three days' fuel left, but in 
 other respects they were well supplied. During 
 the boat voyage they encountered no special dangers 
 or hardships. The greatest inconvenience they 
 experienced was the want of tobacco. They con- 
 soled themselves by smoking tea, which they say 
 
 ^ Xamely : — 
 ;|:1. Capt. Buddington. J8. Xoah Hayes. 
 
 *2. Dr. Bessels. *9. Herman Siemens. 
 
 J3. Capt. Chester (1st mate). *10. Henry Hobby. 
 §4. Mr. Morton (2ml mate). ||11. W. F. Campbell. 
 *.5. ]\Ir. Schumann (eng.). Jl2. Mr.E,. Bryant (asst.astron.) 
 j6. Mr. Odell (2nd eng.). +13. Jos. Maneh. 
 
 \7. Xathan Coffin (carpenter). |14. John Booth. 
 
 * Germans, 8 ; f Esrpiimaux, 8 ; \ Americans, 14 ; 
 Urish, 1 ; II Scotch, 1 :— Total, 32. 
 
 - The " Ravenscraig " was nipped by the ice at the time, 
 and the sketch, drawn on the spot by Dr. Soutar, the snrgeon 
 on board, shows the crew of the " Ravenscraig " hauling the 
 boat of the "' Polaris " over the ice towards tlie vessel. See 
 next page.
 
 186 Transfer of the Crew of the " Polaris^ 
 
 was a very fair substitute. As Captain Adams was 
 anxious to take some of the crew of the " Polaris " 
 on board the '' Arctic/' it was eventually arranged 
 that Dr. Bessels, Mr. Chester the first mate^ Mr. 
 Schumann the engineer^ and four men should come 
 with us, the others remaining on board the " Ravens- 
 craig.'' It was G a.m. before all arrangements were 
 
 " Raveiiscraig " off Cape Yoi'k, and boat of " Polaris." 
 
 concluded, and we bade farewell to the " Ravens- 
 craig/' which vessel proceeded up the sound, whilst 
 we steamed out to the middle ice. 
 
 The expedition of the " Polaris/' under the com- 
 mand of Charles Francis Hall, will always be 
 remarkable for having- proved the navigability of 
 the sti'ait leading from Smith Sound to the north. 
 At present the " Polaris " has reached a higher
 
 A 71 Ill-Assorted Company. 187 
 
 northern latitude than any other ship on record. 
 It is to be hoped that this will not continue long- to 
 be the case, and that she will only point the way 
 to the vast unknown area. Meanwhile every detail 
 respecting- the voyage of the ''Polaris" is important, 
 both as regards the discoveries and the inadequate 
 means with which they were effected. 
 
 The commander of the expedition, Charles F. 
 Hall, was a native of Cincinnati, where he was en- 
 gaged as editor of a newspaper called the " Daily 
 Penny Press ; " and he had formerly been appren- 
 ticed to a blacksmith. He is described as a man 
 with a compact, vigorous frame, and with a firm 
 expression of countenance ; but he had no advan- 
 tages from education, and was unacquainted with 
 nautical astronomy. He was thus in no sense a 
 seaman, but rather an enthusiastic leader, depending 
 on others to navigate his vessel and to render his 
 discoveries useful. He possessed, however, one 
 great advantage. His two previous expeditions 
 had thoroughly acclimatized him, and given him a 
 complete knowledge of Esquimaux life. The men 
 who accompanied him were also badly chosen. 
 Buddington was an old whaling captain, without any 
 interest in the undertaking ; and Tyson was a man 
 of the same stamp. Chester, the mate, was a good 
 seaman and excellent harpooneer, possessing more 
 energy and zeal than his immediate superiors. 
 Dr. Bessels, a former student of Heidelberg, who
 
 188 liernarhihle Rim of the ''^ Polaris T 
 
 had already made one voyage to the Arctic regions, 
 and wlio had served in the Prussian army during 
 the invasion of France, was the only man of scien- 
 tific attainments in the ship, and the only man, 
 besides Hall and Chester, who felt any enthusiasm 
 for the objects of the voyage. Yet while such a 
 man as Buddington received 120 dollars, the pay of 
 Dr. Bessels was at first only 75 dollars a month. 
 He made the American Government ashamed of 
 their niggardly oflfer by requesting them to appoint 
 some one to assist him in his astronomical observa- 
 tions, to whom he proposed to transfer his salary. 
 Though they did not accede to his request, they 
 raised his pay to 100 dollars a month. Dr. Bessels 
 is a great friend of Dr. Petermanu, and he is con- 
 vinced that the theoretical geographer of Gotha will 
 change his opinion respecting the best route for 
 reaching the pole when he has read the report of 
 his countryman Bessels. Altogether it was an ill- 
 assorted company, without zeal for discovery, with- 
 out discipline or control, and in which every man 
 considered himself as good as his neighbour. Hall, 
 Bessels, and Chester were the only three among- 
 them who really desired to reach the pole. 
 
 The most striking fact connected with the voyage 
 is that the "^ Polaris," in August 1871, went from 
 Cape Shackleton to her extreme northern point up 
 Smith Sound in 82° 16' N.' in five days, and even 
 
 ^ This latitude was estimated, and was not bv observation.
 
 Forced to Turn Bad-. 189 
 
 then she was stopped merely by loose floes through 
 which a powerful vessel like the '' Arctic " could 
 easily have forced a passage. I was indeed in- 
 formed that the " Polaris '^ was stopped by a very 
 insignificant stream of ice whicli^ in addition to its 
 offering- no real obstruction, had a clear lead throug-h 
 into open water^ with a magnificent water sky as far 
 as could be seen to the northward. Hall was most 
 reluctant to turn back, but being no sailor and 
 having no experience in ice navigation, he thought 
 he had no alternative but to follow the advice of 
 his sailing master, Captain Buddington. This old 
 whaling skipper, fearing that if they persevered 
 they might be unable to retrace their steps, advised 
 a retrograde movement, and thus ended all further 
 attempts to reach the North Pole. The floes met 
 with up Smith Sound were not of a heavy descrip- 
 tion, and seldom exceeded five feet in thickness, so 
 that we may infer that they were formed in one 
 winter. No icebergs of any size were seen to the 
 north of 80°. Dr. Bessels informs me that, at 
 Newman Bay, a place about eighteen miles to the 
 northward of their winter quarters, the ice appeared 
 heavier and more extensive than that further south, 
 though it was all drifting to the south and west. 
 Two or three of the fields he estimated at a mile in 
 length, with hummocks from ten to twelve feet 
 high, but all the ice seen from their mnter cjuarters 
 appeared to be only of one year's growth. 
 
 From their highest point, in 82° IG' N., they saw
 
 190 Discoveries of the '■'' Polaris. "" 
 
 land to tlie north and west, whicH tliey estimated to 
 extend as far north as 84^. It also appears that, 
 while the south coast of Greenland is gradually 
 subsiding, the north is rising. As a proof of this, 
 Dr. Bessels brought away a sea- water shrimp which 
 he had taken out of a fresh-water pond, thirty- eight 
 feet above the sea level; and he picked up some 
 m.arine shells at an elevation of 1,200 feet above the 
 sea. A mussel shell, in 81° 45', was found at a 
 height of 1,600 feet. 
 
 The coast of Greenland extends only as far as 
 82° 30' N., whence it trends away to the eastward, 
 and there seems to be little doubt of its insularity. 
 It is steep and precipitous, and is free from land 
 ice,; while the shores of Grinnell Land on the oppo- 
 site side, appear to be low and shelving, and have 
 fast ice attached to them. The extreme northern 
 point of Grinnell Land appeared to reach about the 
 same latitude as the north-west point of Greenland, 
 or a little further to the north, and then to trend 
 away to the westward, leaving a channel between 
 these two countries and a northern land visible at a 
 distance of sixty miles. This would place the latter 
 in about 84° N. 
 
 There was a current flowing down the strait 
 from the north ; and a small piece of drift wood 
 was picked up in 82° N. It was a bit of pine wood, 
 about a foot long. In the same latitude Mr. Chester, 
 the mate, discovered a great deal of drift wood,
 
 Tidal Observations. 191 
 
 which, as he did not attach any value to it, v/as used 
 as fuel. One piece was over four feet in length. 
 The Esquimaux Jem, who is really a west coast 
 native, though now settled with the Etah people 
 round the mouth of Smith Sound, told them that 
 plenty of wood came from the north, and was washed 
 up along the shore of Grinnoll Land. It must be 
 borne on the waves of a great polar sea from the 
 coast of Siberia. The most interesting discovery 
 connected with oceanic movements was, that the 
 tidal waves from the north and south meet at Cape 
 Eraser, on the west coast of Grinnell Land. This 
 was fully demonstrated by the drift of the ship and 
 by tidal observations. To the south of Cape Eraser 
 the flood tide makes to the north, whilst to the 
 north it flows south. The rise and fall during spring 
 tides was about five and a half feet, and during the 
 neaps about two feet. No agitation of the water 
 was noticed ofl" Cape Eraser caused by the meeting 
 of the two waves, for the ice would effectually pre- 
 vent anything of the sort. But to the south of 
 Cape Eraser the tide rose to a greater height during 
 the night, as is the case along the coast of Green- 
 land; whereas to the north of Cape Eraser there 
 was no perceptible difference between the day and 
 night tides. 
 
 Vestiges of the presence of man on the verge of 
 the unknown region are proofs of its being habit- 
 able, and therefore of the presence of open water
 
 192 Inhabitants of the Far North. 
 
 and much animal life. Dr. Bessels saw traces of 
 Esquimaux as far north as 82°, in which parallel he 
 picked up, lying on the beach, a couple of ribs of 
 the walrus which had been used as sledge runners, 
 and a small piece of wood that had formed part of 
 the back of a sledge. An old bone knife-handle was 
 also found, and the remains of a summer encamp- 
 ment, consisting of three circles of stones for keep- 
 ing tents in position, with spaces left for the en- 
 trances. 
 
 As regards the work of previous American expe- 
 ditions in Smith Sound, I was informed that all the 
 coast line laid down by Hayes, and the " open.polar 
 sea " of Kane, are quite imaginary. Morton, Kane^s 
 steward, who is said to have discovered the wide 
 immeasurable ocean, was on board the " Polaris,^' 
 as second mate ; we brought him home in the 
 '^Arctic." He is an Irishman from Dublin, and a 
 very good man, and he took the mild chafl" that was 
 levelled at him about his famous " open polar sea " 
 very good-humouredly. Cape Constitution of Kane 
 has been determined to be about fifty miles south of 
 the position formerly assigned to it by that explorer, 
 and the entire coast line must be placed consider- 
 ably further to the eastward. Dr. Bessels satisfied 
 himself of the existence of the United States Sound 
 of Hayes, on the west coast of Smith Sound, and is 
 impressed with the belief that a passage may be 
 made through it into the Polar Sea, which would
 
 Death of Hall. Wi 
 
 establish the insularitj of Griunell Land. He is 
 also of opinion that the Lady Franklin Bay of 
 Hayes is another opening to the westward. One 
 of his reasons for this belief is, that the large 
 ice fields met with at the highest latitude reached 
 by the '' Polaris," though drifting south, were 
 never seen to the south of Lady Franklin Bay ; 
 and it is his impression that they go up that sound 
 or strait. 
 
 From her furthest point the " Polaris " was 
 drifted to the southward, in consequence of the 
 prevailing north-east winds, until she was able to 
 get into winter quarters in 81° 38' N., in a sort of 
 harbour formed by a small iceberg, on the east side 
 of the strait. Hall died in November, 1871, soon 
 after returning from a short autumn travelling ex- 
 cursion ; and my messmates of the '^ Polaris " all 
 appeared to be of one opinion, namely, that had he 
 lived the expedition would have been a complete 
 success. Dr. Bessels informed me that his leader^s 
 death was caused by apoplexy, materially assisted 
 by his own want of caution when returning very 
 cold from his sledge journey. He arrived on board 
 the ship much chilled at about three in the after- 
 noon, and immediately went below and had some 
 hot coffee, without taking off his furs. At about 
 six o'clock he was taken ill, and died in a few days, 
 being quite insensible for some time before his end. 
 He was a teetotaller, and was much annoyed at 
 
 o
 
 104 Arctic Animals. 
 
 seeing- others drink. There can be no doubt that 
 Hall was an enthusiast^ and that his whole soul was 
 wrapped up in the noble desire to achieve greatness. 
 He has found a last resting-place in the midst of 
 his discoveries. 
 
 The winter quarters of the "Polaris/^ in 81° 38', 
 are the most northern position in which civilized 
 man has ever wintered ; and all details respecting 
 the temperature and the amount of animal life are 
 consequently most interesting*. The lowest tem- 
 perature registered was — 48° Fahr., with very little 
 wind blowing at the time. The prevailing winds 
 were from the north-east. The fall of snow during 
 the two winters passed by the " Polaris " up Smith 
 Sound was remarkably small, the heaviest snow 
 storm occurring in the month of June, and that was 
 not of any extraordinary amount. In the latitude 
 of their winter quarters musk oxen were met with, 
 and twenty-six were shot. Foxes and lemmings 
 were also seen, but other animals were compara- 
 tively scarce, and only one bear was seen during 
 the whole year. Narwhal and walrus were not 
 seen to the north of 79°, but seals were obtained up 
 to the extreme point in 82° 16', They were of 
 three kinds, namely, the common Greenland seal, 
 the ground seal, and the fetid seal. The bladder 
 or hooded seal was not met with. On the western 
 side it was stated by the Etah Esquimaux, that 
 Ellesmere Land abounded with musk oxen; and, 
 judging from the configuration of Grinnell Land
 
 Arctic Flora. 195 
 
 the same abundance of animal life is to be found 
 there also. The birds all disappeared during- the 
 winter, though ptarmigan and a species of snipe 
 made their appearance early in the spring; and in 
 the summer all the genera found in other parts of 
 the Arctic regions were abundant. With the ex- 
 ception of a salmon seen in a fresh- water lake not 
 far from the beach, no fish were met with. The 
 contents of the stomachs of the seals they caught 
 were found to consist of shrimps and other small 
 shell fish. Dr. Bessels used the dredge on several 
 occasions, but owing to the ice, he could seldom do 
 so at a greater depth than eighteen or twenty 
 fathoms, the results being generally unimportant, 
 and with the exceiition of a few shrimps and other 
 Crustacea, nothing of interest was obtained. 'No 
 less than fifteen species of plants, five of which were 
 grasses, were collected by the doctor at their high- 
 est latitude, on which the musk oxen must subsist. 
 He gave me four specimens of the flora of 82° N., 
 the names of which will be found in the list of 
 plants in the Appendix^ to which Dr. Hooker has 
 kindly added an explanatory note. Mr. Chester 
 presented me with a fossil from the Silurian lime- 
 stone of that high latitude, which is also referred to 
 in the Appendix. Dr. Bessels made a fair collec- 
 tion of insects, principally flics and beetles, two or 
 three butterflies and mosquitos ; and birds of seven- 
 teen difierent kinds were shot in 82", including two 
 sabine gulls and an Iceland snipe.
 
 196 Fatality amongst the Dogs. 
 
 Dr. Bessels disagrees with those who assert that 
 total darkness prevails during the Arctic mid- winter. 
 He showed me his observations^ and a sketch made 
 in 81° 38' (their winter quarters), from which it 
 appears that, on the 21st of December, they had 
 not less than six hours of twilight, which rose at 
 noon to an altitude of 10°. During the first winter 
 they lost twenty-five out of the sixty dogs they had 
 on board, most of them dying in violent fits. This 
 disaster was attributed to the carelessness of the 
 steward, who threw into the lee scuppers scraps of 
 salt meat, which were eagerly devoured by the dogs. 
 A depot was established at the winter quarters in 
 81° 38' N., consisting of 1,000 lbs. of pemmican 
 and other provisions, besides guns and ammunition. 
 With the exception of poor Captain Hall not a man 
 died, and although many were well advanced in 
 years, all returned in perfect health. 
 
 The " Polaris ^^ was released from her winter 
 quarters in June, 1872, and after sending out a few 
 parties with unimportant results, her head was 
 turned homewards. She was then beset and 
 drifted out into Baffin's Bay, where she sustained a 
 severe nip in the following October. On the 15th 
 of that month it was blowing a heavy gale of wind, 
 and the ship was closely beset. Provisions and 
 boats were landed on the ice to provide for the 
 worst. Suddenly the ship broke away and flew 
 before the wind at the rate of ten or eleven knots.
 
 A Birth. 107 
 
 leaving nineteen hands on the floe, men, women 
 and children, with the boats and provisions. The 
 weather was very thick and the ship was leaking 
 badly, so she was run on shore near Lyttelton 
 Island, just inside Smith Sound. Dr. Bessels at- 
 tributes the wonderful set of the ice experienced by 
 those who were left on the floe, as well as the drift 
 of the '' Resolute,^^ '' Fox/^ and the vessels under 
 De Haven in 1851, entirely to the wind and not to 
 the current. Out of the nineteen souls thus 
 separated from their ships, nine were Esquimaux 
 (two men, two women, and five children), and the 
 remainder were Germans and Americans. Mrs. 
 Hans, the wife of the Esquimaux who was with both 
 Kane and Hayes, was safely delivered of a son in 
 82° N. The little fellow has, in all probability, 
 the most northern birthplace of any human being 
 living . 
 
 During the second winter, near Lyttelton Island, 
 the remaining crew of the "Polaris" received much 
 willing assistance from the Esquimaux of the Etah 
 settlement. Dr. Bessels visited Port Foulke, the 
 winter quarters of Hayes in 1860-61, and on ex- 
 amining the grave of Mr. Sontag, the astronomer 
 of that expedition, he found that the Esquimaux 
 had dug up the remains for the sake of possessing 
 themselves of the wood of the coffin. The bones 
 were scattered in all directions. These he col- 
 lected and re-buried. On inquiring for the stores
 
 198 Carelessness of the Esquimaux. 
 
 wliicli Hayes had left beliind liim in the observa- 
 tory^ he was told by the natives that that edifice 
 had been blown up by the powder left in it, causing 
 the death of five Esquimaux. They had probably 
 broken into the place for the sake of plunder, and 
 owing to their carelessness with regard to fire, the 
 
 American discovery ship '• Polaris." 
 
 powder stored there had ignited. Dr. Bessels also 
 ascended the mer de glace of Hayes, and reached an 
 altitude of 4,181 feet, at a distance of twenty-eight 
 miles from the coast. 
 
 The " Polaris^'' expedition was certainly fortu- 
 nate in securing the services of a man so full of
 
 Dr. Bessels' Resources. 191) 
 
 resources as Dr. Bessels. He is ever ready to 
 invent some substitute if an instrument is broken, 
 and is of a most ingenious turn of mind. Amongst 
 other things which illustrate his inventive genius I 
 may mention his contrivance for amusing the crew 
 with a Christmas tree during the first winter. The 
 tree was made of tissue paper, and placed in their 
 observatory on the shore of Polaris Bay, and must 
 have been a decided success. On a shelf overhead 
 he placed two large basins, one containing grog 
 and the other punch. From these basins he led a 
 couple of india-rubber tubes which were concealed 
 by the foliage of the tree, a mouthpiece only pro- 
 jecting from the branches. Then, by pressing a 
 valve with his foot, the doctor was able to give the 
 men, as they entered with their pannikins, either 
 grog or punch as they desired, much to their sur- 
 prise, and to their no small satisfaction. It is 
 often very amusing to hear the chaffing discussions 
 which take place between Dr. Bessels and Mr. 
 Chester, the mate, who seem to have a high opinion 
 of each other. One. day the latter was boasting of 
 his cooking qualifications, when the doctor reminded 
 him of a certain scouse he had made for the party, 
 and which even the dogs were unable to eat, the 
 ravenous propensities of the Esquimaux dogs being 
 proverbial. 
 
 Dr. Bessels considers that no expedition should 
 go north without some Esquimaux for hunting and
 
 200 
 
 Dr. Bessels Opinions. 
 
 dog; driving'. Ho gave me the names of a man 
 and his wife belonging to Etah, in whom he has the 
 greatest confidence, the woman being of use in 
 making boots and skin clothing, and the man being 
 an excellent driver. The doctor having served in 
 one of the German Arctic expeditions, has had ex- 
 perience of the two routes for Arctic exploration, 
 lie is now decidedly of opinion that Smith Sound 
 is the best, if not the only route by which the North 
 Pole can be reached. 
 
 "Walrus Shootins:.
 
 Chapter XIV. 
 
 AGAIN IN BAFFIN'S BAY. 
 
 TJLY 10th. — We are now on our old 
 fishing ground off Cape Graham Moore. 
 I am beginning to lose all interest in 
 the fishing, and shall be only too glad 
 when we have succeeded in filling- up, and our head 
 is pointed to the southward. I shall be disap- 
 pointed if the " Arctic " is not the first to carry 
 home the intelligence of the rescue of the re- 
 mainder of the " Polaris " crew. This has been 
 another of our delightfully irregular days. Last 
 night, at about half-past ten, fish were seen and the 
 boats sent away, and after a little dodging about, 
 Tom Manson got fast to a fine whale ; it was no 
 sooner alongside than the boat was again sent away 
 in chase, and at about 1 a.m. Davy Smith got a 
 splendid chance, and fired his harpoon right into 
 the unfortunate monster. Mr. Chester and myself 
 went away in the dingy with the rocket gun ; and
 
 202 Hazardous Position on the Ice. 
 
 it was fortunate that we did so, for when the fish 
 next rose it was in the midst of loose pack ice, 
 through which no boat could possibly have pene- 
 trated. We determined on attempting to reach our 
 prey on the ice, and leaving the boat, we commenced 
 a rather ticklish and somewhat perilous journey, as 
 the ice was of a most rotten and treacherous nature. 
 On sevei-al occasions we were nearly going through, 
 indeed the boy who accompanied us and was carrying 
 the ammunition did fall in, and was only saved by 
 throwing himself forward. Unfortunately he lost 
 all the ammunition ; however, we had loaded the 
 gun before landing, so that one shot was preserved. 
 Chester had the gun, while I was armed with a 
 lance. After walking rather more than half a 
 mile, which took us nearly an hour to accomplish, 
 we came up to our game, which was lying in a little 
 hole that it had made for itself through the thin 
 ice. Chester fired, and with effect, for almost 
 immediately the dart exploded the fish turned over 
 and expired. If we had not gone on the ice with 
 the gun it must have escaped us, having only been 
 struck with one harpoon, and we could not possibly 
 have lanced it from the ice. Our journey back was 
 as hazardous and difficult as the one made to the 
 fish. However, it has been a good day's work, as 
 the two whales caught are very large. 
 
 Friday, July 11th. — We had our first meal at half 
 past twelve (a.m.) . and it was amusing to hear every
 
 Shootlnr/ a Bear. 203 
 
 one as tliej came into tlie cabin and looked at the 
 clocks inquire " if it was half- past twelve to-morrow 
 morning, or half-past twelve last night/^ In the 
 afternoon a bear was seen, and Chester and myself 
 immediately started in the dingy in chase. Fully 
 carrying out the character for curiosity attributed to 
 these animals. Master Bruin actually ran along the 
 edge of the floe towards us, apparently to ascertain 
 who the audacious creatures were that dared to 
 approach and distin-b him during his meals. A 
 shot from my little rifle striking him full in the face 
 brought him down, but I was compelled to fire twice 
 more before life was extinct. There was a huge 
 piece of whale tongue lying on the ice, which he 
 had picked up in the water and deposited in its 
 present position. It must have weighed at least a 
 couple of hundred weight ; it was quite fresh, and 
 was most probably a piece of Icrcng thrown over- 
 board yesterday. Bi'uin measured over seven feet 
 eight inches. Shortly afterwards I shot a large 
 ground seal, but the beast tumbled off the ice, sank, 
 and was lost. The last two days have been thick 
 and foggy, much to our annoyance, as it renders all 
 search after whales impossible. The arrival of the 
 doctor and the party from the '' Polaris^^ has, indeed 
 been a god-send to me. Time was beginning to 
 hang very heavily, for this whaling business becomes 
 after a time extremely monotonous, and is relieved 
 only by the actual capture of a fish. The subsequent
 
 204 A Rainfall 
 
 operations begin to get tedious and uninteresting, 
 usually terminating in dirt, weariness^ and discom- 
 fort. 
 
 Jidy 13th. — We liave unfortunately broken our 
 hydrometer, and therefore are unable for a time to 
 observe the specific gravity of the sea-water, which, 
 with our other observations, we have been regularly 
 taking every two hours ; but the doctor is most 
 philosophical with regard to his loss, and I do not 
 doubt that in a short time he will devise some 
 instrument by which we may continue our obser- 
 vations. 
 
 Monday, Jidy 14f/i. — When I rose this morning 
 it was actually raining ; the first rainfall we have 
 had since leaving the Atlantic. I am afraid I did 
 not greet it as an old friend, for it materially assisted 
 in making the upper deck in a more filthy state than 
 it was before, if such a thing were possible. The 
 doctor fully confirmed his reputation for ingenuity 
 this forenoon by constructing a hydrometer out of 
 a small bottle, a quill, and a little of my mercury. 
 It is a decided success. In consequence of a thick 
 fog which prevailed in the morning, the ship was 
 made fast to a floe, and the men employed in making 
 oS" the blubber from the last whale caught. Clearing 
 up in the afternoon, steam was raised, and we are 
 now proceeding in the direction of Pond's Bay, 
 intendino^ to fish alonsf the edo-e of the floe. 
 
 Tuesday, July Ibth. — Being thick and foggy this
 
 Deep-Sea Soundings. 205 
 
 morning, we again made fast to a large floe, and 
 filled up with water obtained from small pools on the 
 surface. With my artificial horizon I was able to 
 get sights for latitude and longitude. Last night 
 we saw the '' Erik " and " Polynia'' off Pond's Inlet, 
 but the land-ice extended so far out, and the 
 middle-ice was in such close proximity, that the 
 captain would not venture on making fast for fear of 
 being beset, so we are again cruising about under 
 canvas. Whilst alongside the floe, I got a cast with 
 the deep-sea lead, but obtained no soundings in 
 200 fathoms. The temperature of the air was 41'9 ; 
 at the surface, 35*5 ; and at extreme depth, 32. In 
 the afternoon as I was talking with Dr. Bessels, all 
 my other messmates being asleep, I was told there 
 was a bear on the ice. I hurried on deck with my 
 rifle, and went away in the dingy with the doctor 
 and a couple of hands. Fearing that he might 
 escape us by running shorewards (that is, away from 
 the water), I landed on the ice and walked round 
 him. Bruin, however, for a wonder, was not of a 
 curious turn of mind, for when I had approached to 
 within 120 yards ho jumped into the water. I ran 
 as hard as I could to the edge of the floe, and 
 just catching sight of him as he turned round to 
 have a look at me, sent a bullet through his head, 
 killing him on the spot. He was a fair-sized brute, 
 measuring seven feet eight inches. Ever since 
 last Sunday we have had most villainous foggy
 
 206 Foggy Weather. 
 
 weather ; occasionally the sun will break out^ dis- 
 persing- the mist, but only for a very short time, 
 when we are again enveloped in fog. It is most 
 tantalizing, as it is impossible to keep a look-out for 
 fish, for not even Sam Weller's " double magnify- 
 ing glasses of hextra power " could pierce the dense 
 mist which surrounds us. We are also amono-st 
 
 o 
 
 much ice, and it is impossible to find our way out ; 
 however, it is, thanks to calm weather, loose and 
 open, though there is no saying how long it may 
 remain so. 
 
 Tliursday, Jtily 17th. — A beautiful, clear, calm 
 day. We have steamed away from the obnoxious 
 ice floes, and now resume our weary occupation of 
 looking for fish. At noon I got a cast vnth the 
 deep-sea lead, having had good sights, so as to fix 
 the ship's position, but with the usual result — no 
 bottom at 200 fathoms. The temperature of the air 
 was 40° ; of the surface, 38"2'' ; at 200 fathoms, 
 30*5°. By way of experiment I attached an empty 
 bottle well-corked, and with a good coating of seal- 
 ing-wax, to the line just above the lead. When 
 hauled to the surface, the cork was found to be com- 
 pletely driven into the bottle by the pressure of the 
 water, and the bottle was consequently filled. The 
 doctor has discovered amongst his relics a solar 
 thermometer, the bulb of which he painted over with 
 lamp-black, so that, in addition to our other obser- 
 vations, we are also able to register the temperature
 
 A Beautiful Dcuj. 207 
 
 iu tho sun. At 2 p.m. it was as high as 118"2'^. Dr. 
 Bessels had served during- the war as surgeon in a 
 Prussian regiment, and interested me very much 
 to-day by relating some of his experiences during 
 that campaign. 
 
 Friday, July 18th. — A fine day — -a real Arctic 
 day — which, when it comes iu these regions, is 
 truly enjoyable, especially when it comes after thick 
 foggy weather ; it carries with it an exhilarating 
 influence rarely met with elsewhere. Though our 
 thermometer on deck only registered six degrees 
 above freezing-point, the warmth of the sun is so 
 great that one feels inclined, to use a vulgar expres- 
 sion, to peel. It is a day on which gloves, mittens, 
 and mufflers are discarded, and comforters laid aside. 
 Even at midnight yesterday the thermometer showed 
 sixty- four degrees in the sun. It was long past 
 one before I retired to rest this morning, so pleasant 
 was my solitary walk while enjoying the beauties of 
 an Arctic night, forgetting for a while, until brought 
 to my senses by slipping on the greasy deck, that I 
 was really and truly on board a Dundee whaler. 
 jN[ot a ripple ruffled the smooth water, which had the 
 appearance of a polished mirror, reflecting every- 
 thing that rested on its surface, and magnifying the 
 sea-birds that lay or paddled about on its bosom to 
 such a size, that they more resembled seals' heads or 
 whales' crowns, than our constant attendants and 
 scavengers, the greedy fulmar petrels. Loose ice
 
 208 Inactivity. 
 
 lay dotted about in small clusters or patches, and 
 it would not require a great stretch of imagination 
 to represent these patches of ice as sheep huddled 
 together in numerous flocks, with here and there 
 single animals scattered about, straying from their 
 fellows, in a delightfully smooth and rich pasturage, 
 the greenish colour of the water materially assisting 
 the illusion. A few small bergs, raising their crests 
 a short distance above the horizon, might easily be 
 taken for cottages or shepherds^ huts, and thus 
 complete the landscape, while to add to the beauty 
 of this charming picture, there was a bright sun, 
 about five degrees above the horizon, yet not so lus- 
 trous but that it was possible to look at it without 
 pain to the eyes. Overhead there was a glorious 
 sky, what is generally termed a " mackerel sky," 
 the blue and white of which were gradually blended 
 together as they descended towards the horizon, 
 having rich tints of various bright hues, in regular 
 and separate layers, directly opposite and round the 
 sun. It was truly a delightful night, but it is 
 utterly impossible for me to describe it so as to do 
 any justice to the scene. To-day there is a light 
 breeze from the southward, which makes the chance 
 of getting fish a little better. We have never, 
 since our arrival on the fishing-ground, been so long 
 idle, and it is all the more tantalizing, when we only 
 require four or five more whales to complete our 
 cargo, and enable us to spread our wings for a home-
 
 Thoughts of Home. 
 
 209 
 
 ward flig'lit. Our restless captain cannot^ as I 
 anticipated^ endure this protracted period of idleness, 
 and the engines are now throbbing away fall speed, 
 and our head pointed in the direction of Cape Byam 
 Martin, whence we shall again proceed up the sound 
 and try our luck in Admiralty and Prince Regent's 
 Inlets. With fortune on our side we may very 
 reasonably expect to fill our ship in ten or fourteen 
 days' time, and then start for home. 
 
 Pond's Bay.
 
 Chapter XT 
 
 ADMIRALTY IXLET. 
 
 JJLY 19th. — ^It is surprising how very 
 jDopular an expedition of discovery to- 
 wards tlie North Pole appears to be 
 with every one. Yesterday the mate 
 was inquiring, . in case a Government ex]3edition 
 started, whether there would be any chance of his 
 being appointed as ice-master. I have met no man 
 in these ships better qualified for such a duty, or 
 more competent for such a situation ; young, power- 
 ful, a good walker, an excellent shot, — these are a 
 few of the qualities he possesses, joined to a most 
 daring and enterprising character. One of the 
 crew of the " Polaris," a German, also came to me, 
 saying he had heard that there was a chance of an 
 expedition going next year, and that he was very 
 desn'ous of joining it. He is a fine, intelligent 
 man, of whom they all speak most highly, and was 
 one of the two who saw the most northern land.
 
 Inaccuracy of our Charts. 211 
 
 estimated in eighty-four degrees. This has been 
 one of the finest days, and decidedly the warmest, 
 we have had since leaving England. Temperature 
 as high as fifty-seven degrees. At eight o'clock 
 we were off Cape Byam Martin, since which time 
 (it is now past midnight) I have been taking angles, 
 bearings, and altitudes, and working out the results. 
 Dr. Bessels was kindly sketching the land for me 
 as far as Cape Liverpool, after which I lost his 
 services, in consequence of the necessity of his 
 going to bed at 2 p.m. 
 
 I am quite surprised at the inaccuracy of our 
 charts. The whole trend of the coast-line is in- 
 correct. Cape Liverpool would be more properly 
 called Point Liverpool, being- merely a long promon- 
 toryjutting out into the sea. One distinct and high 
 headland between Capes Byam Martin and Fanshawe 
 is altogether ignored on the chart, and this I have 
 named Ca^Je Sherard Osborn. I counted twelve 
 large glaciers between Capes Fanshawe and Hay ; 
 but including small or embryo glaciers, there are 
 fully four-and- twenty. The largest one is directly 
 behind Cape Liverpool, and is about five or six milps 
 in breadth. None had the appearance of being- 
 discharging glaciers, and the depth of this one did 
 not appear to be very considerable. I have named 
 them the " Bartle Frere Glaciers,'' after the Presi- 
 dent of the Royal Geographical Society. At eight 
 o'clock, being off Navy Board Inlet, a couple of
 
 212 Land at Navy Board Inlet. 
 
 boats were sent away in cliasc of a whale, and the 
 captain kindly letting* me have the dingy, I landed, 
 accompanied by Chester and the two doctors, on 
 the north-west point, and svxcceeded in getting 
 some sights, though the altitude was so low as to 
 compel me to lie flat down and close to my horizon. 
 We afterwards collected a few botanical and geo- 
 logical specimens, and shot a few birds, the doctor 
 having promised me some lessons in skinning them. 
 Sunday, July 20tJt. — Sunday always seems an 
 eventful day with us, and this has been unusually 
 so. At seven this morning, off* the mouth of Ad- 
 miralty Inlet, we met the " Narwhal,'^ the captain 
 of which kindly sent us a couple of " Dundee Ad- 
 vertisers,'^ one of which had an account of the 
 rescue of the remaining portion of the crew of the 
 " Polaris.^'' Luck still remains with us, for having, 
 in company with the " Xarwhal,^' made fast to the 
 land-ice stretching across the inlet, a fish was seen 
 close to the latter vessel, when boats were instantly 
 sent away in pursuit. Before loug a chance pre- 
 sented itself, the harpooneer of the " IS^arwhal's " 
 boat fired, and the cry of " A fall ! a fall ! " told us 
 they were fast. By some unaccountable accident, 
 probably the harpoon drew, or it Avas not securely 
 embedded in the blubber; however, the fish was 
 again loose, and rose not far from one of our boats, 
 two of which were " on the bran.^^ We saw Harky 
 rise to his gun, and heard the report, but instead
 
 Esquimaiu. 213 
 
 of the ciy of " A fall ! " and the hoisting of the 
 jack^ to our chagrin we perceived that he had 
 missed. The skipper concealed his feelings won- 
 derfully well, and went below ; but strange to say, 
 the fish had not been frightened^ and again rose 
 not far from Harky, who pulled up, and this time 
 got fast. The whale was soon killed and along- 
 side. It was not a very large one, but still it is 
 another fislo, and gives us altogether 210 tons on 
 board. 
 
 On arriving at the land-ice, several parties of 
 Esquimaux came down to us, and the ship has the 
 whole day been besieged by them — dirty, unkempt- 
 looking people, both men and women. They ar- 
 i-ived in sledges drawn by from nine to twelve dogs 
 each. 
 
 Altogether there were seven sledges, bringing 
 about twenty-five men, women, and children. With 
 the exception of a few foxes' skins and walrus tusks 
 they had little to barter, though that did not pre- 
 vent their asking for everything they saw, and the 
 more that was given them the more they wanted. 
 I have received by no means a fovourable impression 
 of these Pond's Bay natives, for from that place 
 they come. They seem to me about the lowest 
 specimens of humanity I have ever come across, not 
 excepting the Solomon Islanders. 
 
 One man picked up the carcase of a loom that the 
 doctor had been skinning, and seemed to relish it
 
 214 
 
 Pond's Bay Natives. 
 
 amazingly, tearing off the raw flesh with his teeth ; 
 observing me watching him intentl}*, he offered me 
 a piece, but I need not say the tempting morsel 
 was declined. In consequence of its being a cloudy 
 day I was unable, much to my disappointment, to 
 get sights. In the afternoon we suffered for our 
 
 Esquimaux dogs. 
 
 warm temperature by a perfect drenching down- 
 pour of good heavy rain, which lasted many hom-s. 
 The natives sought shelter at once. They appear 
 to have a great abhorrence of water — at any rate, 
 
 I can vouch that none is ever used by them for 
 cleansing purposes. 
 
 I am sorry to say we are again without our
 
 A Hasty Departure. 215 
 
 hydromotcT^ it liaviug- bceu accidentally dropped 
 overboard while Hayds was drawing water. Last 
 niglit when avo were away in the dingy wo pulled 
 between the two westernmost islands of the Wol- 
 laston group, in a crevice between the rocks, on 
 one of which we found the nest of a little snow- 
 flake, containing the young birds and one Qg^, of 
 which we possessed ourselves in a cruel and heart- 
 less manner. 
 
 Monday, July 21. si. — Elwyn Inlet. — As I anti- 
 cipated, it came on to blow very hard from the 
 northward at midnight, causing a heavy sea, which 
 broke up our ice and enforced our speedy depar- 
 ture, the captain putting in here for shelter : a 
 snug little haven, where wo are lying comfortably 
 made fast to a land floe. When last we saw our 
 friends, the Esquimaux, they were busy packing 
 their sledges, and harnessing their dogs ready for 
 a start, as the ice was cracking in all directions. 
 When we came into this place it seemed literally 
 swarming with narwhals. Very shortly after send- 
 ing our boats away, wo had secured seven, oS" which 
 we shall get ab'ou.t a ton of blubber. Unfortunately 
 they are all young and females, so, consequently 
 have no horn, with the exception of one that had an 
 appendage about two feet in length, scarcely worth 
 mentioning. I had a long shot at one flying 
 through the water, but though I struck him, the 
 harpoon failed to get f\xst. All the afternoon I
 
 216 Fishing along the Floe. 
 
 have been hard at work taking sights and angles, 
 both from the ship and on shore, which will enable 
 me to make a fair plan of the harbour. I suc- 
 ceeded in obtaining' soundings from the ship in 
 190 fathoms soft muddy bottom, temperature 29*5°, 
 surface 34% air 37*^ ; and also collected several bo- 
 tanical and geological specimens. 
 
 Tuesday, Jtdy 22nd. — An unpleasant, damp, 
 foggj day, at times so thick as to render it im- 
 possible to distinguish the end of the bowsprit. 
 This thick weather is a great drawback as regards 
 taking sights, the fogs, especially at this time of the 
 year and next month, being so prevalent as to make 
 a clear day quite an exception. 
 
 We left Elwyn Inlet about ten, and soon after- 
 wards the captain put his head into my cabin with 
 the welcome intelligence that the " Tay " was in 
 sight, and the dingy was despatched for our letters 
 and newspapers. We are now fishing along the 
 floe across Admiralty Inlet, but keeping well over 
 to the west side. Occasionally, when the fog is 
 not so dense, we catch sight of the " Erik,^^ "Tay," 
 and "Narwhal," all the ships keeping close together, 
 and in what they call the thick water, in which fish 
 are only to be seen. We have seen one or two 
 whales during the day, and have lowered our boats 
 after them, but without success. The mate, how- 
 ever, got fast to a narwhal, which although a 
 female had a horn three feet in leno'th. According- 
 to the accounts given in the English papers by the
 
 Geological Formation of the Land. 217 
 
 " Polaris " survivors of the dimensions of the floe on 
 "vvhich they drifted down to the coast of Labrador, 
 its circumference, when they started, was five miles, 
 which was reduced to twenty yards in diameter 
 before they abandoned it. Both the doctor and 
 Chester assure me, the former having actually 
 measured it, that a mile and a quarter in circumfer- 
 ence was the outside ; so that if its decrease in size 
 is exaggei'ated in the same proportion — in reality 
 it will not have been much reduced. I employed 
 myself this morning- in examining, sorting, and 
 stowing away my geological specimens, and find 
 that the land on the east side of Navy Board Inlet 
 is composed of Silurian limestone similar to Cape 
 Hay. In addition to this limestone there are several 
 jDieces of drift, some of largo boulders, probably 
 transported by ice, and which consist of gneiss, 
 mica-schist, and granitic gneiss. The land about 
 Elwyn and Admiralty Inlets is composed of the 
 same Silurian limestone, which rises up precipi- 
 tously from the sea to a height of from 1,200 to 
 1,500 feet. Its striations are most distinct, though 
 very irregular, in places being nearly horizontal, in 
 others dipping towards the northward and west- 
 ward from G"-' to 10^. 
 
 In the evening it was suddenly discovered that 
 there was very little water left in the ship, so we 
 are now hauled to the wind, beating* up towards our 
 old harbour, Elwyn Inlet, the weather still con- 
 tinuing as thick as pea-soup. I am not sorry we
 
 218 Prevailing Fogs. 
 
 are going- back^ as if the suu shows itself to-morrow 
 I shall be able to complete a very fair j)lan of the 
 anchorage. 
 
 Wednesday, July 23rc7. — At midnight last night 
 we made fast to the land ice in Elwyn Inlet, and 
 immediately had all the men and boats away water- 
 ing ship, the water, pm-e and fresh, running down 
 the sides of the cliff into our casks. So expedi- 
 tiously was this duty performed, that by 5 a.m. we 
 had received over twenty tons of water, and taken 
 our departure from the inlet, without giving me a 
 chance of getting any observations, the weather 
 still remaining thick and foggy, the wind having* 
 fallen, or to use a whaling phrase, "taken off." 
 We pushed through the loose brashy ico, and made 
 fast to the main pack across Admiralty Inlet, where 
 we are now patiently waiting-, with a couple of boats 
 " on the bran," for any fish that may be unwise 
 enough to approach within sight. The ice is from 
 five to seven feet in thickness, but with a change of 
 wind it will quickly break up. 
 
 Saturday, July 26th. — A wet, thick, foggy, and 
 unpleasant day. We are cruising about along the 
 floe edge, still in Admiralty Inlet ; but the weather 
 is decidedly against our fishing, irrespective of a fresh 
 north-westerly breeze, which raises an unpleasant 
 tumble of a sea. I succeeded in obtaining a little 
 " snow-flake " this morning, which forms another 
 important addition to my ornithological collection.
 
 Our Coal Supply DlmuiisldiKj. 2 IS) 
 
 Sunday, July 27th. — Still enveloped in this per- 
 sistent and villainous fog. I begin to think we 
 are destined never more to see either land or sun. 
 The wind has subsided and the sea has gone down^ 
 but the thick weather seems to exert a most depress- 
 ing influence on all on boards though for different 
 reasons : on my shipmates, because of their utter 
 inability to fish ; and on myself, because I am unable 
 either to get observations or to see the land. We 
 imagine ourselves to-day to be off Cape Craufurd, 
 a point the position of which I am especially anxious 
 to determine. Our pile of coal on the quarter-deck 
 is diminishinsf in a most alarming manner, which 
 gives me a great deal of uneasiness, though the 
 captain is constantly raising my spirits by telling 
 me that I am destined to see much more than any 
 one that ever came out in a discovery ship. 
 
 Cape \\ aiTCiulcr.
 
 Chapter XVI. 
 
 TRIXCE PvEGENT'S IXLET. 
 
 OXDAY, July 28th.— Again iu Prince 
 Kegent's Inlet. At midnight last night 
 the fog suddenly cleared off — rapid 
 changes being very common in these 
 regions — and found us abreast of Cape Craufurd, 
 distant about eight miles. Steam was immediately 
 raised, and a course shaped for this inlet. It was 
 beautifully calm until 1 r.M., when a strong breeze 
 sprang up from the westward, causing the spray to 
 wash clean over our decks ; but by 4 p.m. we were 
 steaming through an immense quantity of loose pack 
 ice, which gave us smooth water ; and thinking fish 
 might be about, the screw was stopped, and the ship 
 put under canvas. The entire coast line, from Cape 
 Craufurd to Capo York, is incorrectly delineated on 
 the chart; I was able to get a fair notion of the 
 trend of the land, but unfortunately we were too far 
 off to make a really accurate survey. I obtained
 
 A Day of Adventure. 221 
 
 siglits at 4.30 a.m., 5.30 a.m., G.40 a.m., 9.30 a.m., 
 and noon; and with the true bearings obtained at 
 the same time, shall be able to give the j^rincipal 
 headlands. 
 
 Ihiesday, July 29t]i. — This has been a day full 
 of adventure and excitement, one of those days one 
 reads of in story books treating of the whale fishery. 
 Last night a fine narwhal was harpooned, with a 
 horn rather over nine feet in length. After break- 
 fast I went away to officiate as harpooneer in a boat 
 '' on the bran,^^ but the water was so smooth, and 
 everything- so silent and quiet, that we were unable 
 to approach the " wily unie " sufficiently near to 
 effect its capture. Before returning on board I 
 hazarded a long shot at one, but although it was 
 hit, and we all thought wo were fast, he got away. 
 I had just completed a double altitude when the 
 captain sent down to say he saw some bears on the 
 floe. Putting my books on one side I ran on deck, 
 and getting the dingy, went away with the two 
 doctors and Chester. We pulled for some time 
 without seeing anything, and were just on the point 
 of giving it up and returning to the ship when 
 " Brunie " was espied some distance off" the floe, 
 but coming towards us. When he had approached 
 within 600 yards his curiosity appeai'ed to be satis- 
 fied, and he seemed inclined to show us his heels, 
 perceiving which I landed on the floe, and, running 
 as fast as possible, got him between the water and
 
 222 A Day of Adventure. 
 
 myself. His retreat being thus cut off^ lie jumped 
 into the water^ when^ risking a long shot^ I sent a 
 bullet through his body. This apparently had little 
 or no effect upon him, except to dye the water with 
 his blood. Seeing the dingy coming up behind, 
 he jumped on the ice, which gave me a better mark, 
 and I fired again, striking him just abaft the fore 
 shoulder, and rolling him completely over ; he soon, 
 however, picked himself up, and rushed towards 
 me ; but another bullet at about fifteen yards put 
 an end to any evil designs he might have enter- 
 tained towards me. Bear shooting alone on the 
 floe is hardly a desirable or pleasant amusement, 
 unless armed with a breech-loader. Whilst the 
 others were employed flinching our game I walked 
 some distance, and caught sight of another bear; 
 but though I did my best to imitate a seal lying on 
 the ice, I failed to allure my intended victim within 
 range, and at last, suddenly taking fright, he turned 
 round and scampered off. 
 
 We were just shoving off to return, when we 
 heard the blast, and eventually saw the crown, of a 
 large whale. Double banking our oars, we pulled 
 with all speed to the ship to make known the wel- 
 come intelligence, reaching her at about 4 p. m., when 
 two boats were soon sent away in the direction we 
 had indicated. Dinner was scarcely over before a fish 
 was seen close to the ship, and all hands were 
 called. He rose close alongside. Tom Webster
 
 Perilous Situation. 223 
 
 pulled lip — all was breathless excitement^ everyone 
 watching the result. Tom had a splendid chance, 
 right over the fish, which we already regarded as 
 our own. He fired, but, sad to relate, missed. 
 The captain hailed from the nest to put in his hand 
 harpoon ; he stuck it in, but, fortunately as it 
 turned out, had not time to bury it deep in the 
 whale's blubber. Down went the fish with fearful 
 rapidity, the lines fouled, and in another moment 
 the boat would have been taken down. ''Jump 
 overboard for your lives ! '' shouted the captain 
 from the crow's nest. At that instant the harpoon 
 drew, and they were safe ; but our fish was lost. 
 Poor Tom ! we were all more sorry for his misfor- 
 tune in missing than for the actual loss of the whale. 
 But we had no time to lament our ill-luck, for more 
 fish were seen, and in less than half an hour we had 
 the pleasure of hearing " a fall " cried, and of know- 
 ing that Jemmy Grey was fast. Seeing that it was a 
 heavy fish, and likely to give trouble, Chester and 
 I volunteered to go away in the ding-y with the 
 rocket-gun to kill it, an offer which was gladly 
 accepted ; Chester took the gun and I the steer 
 oar, the doctor (Graham) and an old fireman, com- 
 monly called old Harry, forming our crew. We 
 pulled close alongside the monster, which had by 
 this time got three harpoons in its body. This 
 seemed to make it wild; Chester fired. I swept 
 the boat round, but the dingy, rather an unmanage-
 
 224 Knocked Overboard. 
 
 able little boat in consequence of a very deep false 
 keel, which had recently been put on, and also being 
 a boat very ill adapted for the service on which we 
 were employed, failed to get clear of the brute's 
 tail, which it had thrown up out of the water on 
 receiving the contents of our gun, and which, de- 
 scending with terrific violence, just caught the gun- 
 wale of our boat, knocking me over the stern. 
 Before coming to the surface I imagined the dingy 
 had been smashed to pieces, which would have been 
 rather a bad case for us, as the other boats were 
 some way off, and, also, fast to the fish ; and, no 
 loose boat being near us, and with the temperature 
 of the water only a few degrees above freezing 
 point, I don't think that I for one could have kept 
 up long, accoutred as I was in a heavy monkey 
 jacket and sea boots. However, on rising to the 
 surface, I had the satisfaction of seeing the dingy a 
 couple of boats' lengths off, and the doctor (who 
 had taken to the water, imagining that the tail was 
 coming rigjit down upon us) and myself were soon 
 hauled in, none the worse for our ducking. If the 
 boat had been one foot nearer the fish she would 
 most assuredly have been dashed to pieces and we 
 should have all been killed before having time to 
 jump overboard. 
 
 However, we ended in having our revenge on the 
 monster, though it was an hour and a half before 
 we succeeded in despatching it. Having no boat
 
 Parry's Predictions. 225 
 
 to assist us, the whole duty of killing the wliale fell 
 to us. Chester (an old ^yllaler) used the lance in a 
 masterly manner. I was not sorry to return on 
 board and get some dry clothing. The captain was 
 much relieved at seeing us safe, for he had been 
 very anxious after having- seen the doctor and me 
 in the water. We soon had our friend alongside, 
 and by midnight his blubber was on board. Three 
 or four more such fish will fill us. The number of 
 whales seen here reminds me of Parry's visit to 
 Regent's Inlet, and of his remarking on the numer- 
 ous fish that were seen. He then predicted that at 
 no distant period it would undoubtedly become a 
 rendezvous for our whalers, when the fishery in 
 Bafiin's Bay began to fail, as whales will always in 
 course of time leave a place where they continue 
 year after year to be molested. Parry gave a very 
 exact description of Neill's Harbour, thinking the 
 day would come when our ships would find it of 
 
 ' He says: — "I have been thus particular in describing 
 Neill's Harbour, because I am of opinion that at no very dis- 
 tant date whalers may find it of service." . . . . " Prince 
 Regent's Inlet will probably become a rendezvous for our 
 ships, as well on account of the numerous fish to be found 
 there, as the facility with which any ship having once crossed 
 Baffin's Bay is sure to reach it during the months of July and 
 August. We saw nine or ten black whales the evening of 
 our aiTival in Xeills Harbour." — Parnjs Third Voyage. 
 
 Q
 
 226 Off Port Bowen. 
 
 Wednesclay, July ^OtJt . — The morning broke wet 
 and disagreeable, with rain continuing until noon, 
 when the weather cleared up, and a strong breeze 
 sprang up from the north-west ; but in consequence 
 of the amount of loose ice in the inlet, the water 
 was comparatively smooth. Our only danger now 
 is, being caught by the ice and beset until a change 
 of wind. We have been cruising all day off and on 
 Port Bowen, Parry^s winter quarters in 1824, but I 
 have been unable to get sights, as there is nothing 
 but an icy horizon. I have employed myself to-day 
 in tracing off the land as it should be on the chart, 
 and skinning birds, which is anything but a plea- 
 sant occupation. 
 
 Friday, A^icjiist 1st. — -We are now cruising off 
 and on a large floe, stretching nearly from Port 
 Bowen to Batty Bay. The wind has been blowing- 
 very fresh for the last two days from the north- 
 west, which is driving the ice up the inlet at a 
 surprising pace. During the time we have been 
 '^ hove to" off a floe some five or six miles in ex- 
 tent, it has been drifting to the southward faster 
 than we have ourselves. 
 
 The captain has now a new idea in his head, 
 which is to follow the ice up the inlet until we reach 
 Fury Point, when we shall probably come to open 
 water, to push up the Gulf of Boothia, making a 
 running survey of all the unknown land on its 
 eastern side, through the Fury and Hecla Straits,
 
 The Captain's New Idea. 227 
 
 clown Fox Channel or tho Frozen Straits into 
 Hudson's Bay, and thus home. I need not say 
 how anxious I am that he should adopt this route, 
 the discovery of which would be of the greatest, 
 advantage to whalers; and, from what we have 
 lately seen, the whales are all heading in that 
 
 ^^fffS 
 
 5&"^^6«t, 
 
 Prince Eegent's Inlet — The " Arctic " fishing at the 
 edge of the floe. 
 
 direction, so that we might fish as we go along. 
 At five this morning, a little south of Batty Bay, 
 some whales were seen, but only one small one 
 caught, though all the boats were away. Whilst 
 we were employed in flinching our fish, with the 
 help of one or two of the " Polaris's " men, I got a 
 cast with the deep-sea lead, but no soundings in two 
 hundred fathoms, temperature 29'8, surface 33'0,
 
 228 Pass Fury Beach. 
 
 air 36'4. The fish we obtained, though it had only 
 run out three hundred fathoms of line, was covered 
 with soft mud, and this was what induced me to 
 get a cast. 
 
 In the evening we steamed through a stream of 
 pack ice into a large open water along the land, the 
 " Camperdown^^ following us. The way in which 
 we bored through the ice elicited the admiration of 
 the " Polaris's " men, Schumann, the engineer, 
 saying that if they had come across such ice they 
 would have made fast and remained until it opened. 
 He said if they had only had a man like Adams as 
 their sailing master, he felt convinced they would 
 have reached the North Pole. We passed a large 
 iceberg to-day apparently aground. I am at a loss 
 to conceive whence it comes, as to my knowledge 
 there are no discharging glaciers, nor, in fact, any 
 others in this neighbourhood. It must, therefore, 
 have drifted up from Lancaster Sound, or perhaps 
 even from Baffin's Bay. 
 
 Saturday, Aiujust 2nd. — At six this morning we 
 passed Fury Beach, at a distance of about three or 
 four miles. I was very anxious to land, but the 
 captain was as anxious to look for fish, so we stood 
 on past Fury Point into Creswcll Bay. With my 
 glass I could plainly perceive a quantity of stores, 
 which seemed to consist of casks, spars, and a heap of 
 what sailors would call gear. Two boats were seen 
 hauled up on the beach, but one appeared a perfect
 
 Unsuccessful Chase. 221) 
 
 wreck. We could also see a large anchor^ but no 
 signs whatever of the ship herself. The land seems 
 to be of the same silurian limestone as at Port 
 Leopold. I am afraid we shall not proceed mucli 
 further to the southward^ as the captain reports the 
 ice closing in, so that our chance is small of going up 
 the Gulf of Boothia. Certainly, as far as I can 
 see, there is open water to the south, and the ice is 
 at least four miles off the west coast of the inlet. 1 
 obtained good sights again to-day. 
 
 Midnight. — We have just returned on board 
 from a long, wearisome, and unsuccessful chase 
 after a whale. Shortly after entering Creswell 
 Bay some fish were seen. All hands were called, 
 and all the boats sent away, the captain observing 
 with glee, as we shoved oft', that we should be a 
 '^ full ship^' that evening. I went as boat steerer 
 in Bannerman^s boat, going with two others after a 
 fish towards the head of the bay. For eight hours 
 did we chase and dodge that whale, sometimes 
 getting within one hundred feet of it, but never 
 near enough to risk a shot. We must have pulled 
 at least a distance of twenty miles, first to star- 
 board, then to port, then ahead, and now astern. 
 I verily believe the fish had seen us, and was pur- 
 posely leading us astray. We chased it nearly up 
 to the head of the bay, and then out again towards 
 the ship, when it again turned and went back. 
 The captain, seeing our crew wore nearly done up.
 
 230 Creswell Bay. 
 
 recalled us, and sent three frcsli cre^YS away in tlie 
 boats after the same fish, but I do not believe they 
 \n\\ ever get her. We were not sorry to return on 
 board, as we were getting both hungry and tired. 
 There appears to be a sort of inlet at the head of 
 Creswell Bay, but Avhether formed by a river or 
 not I am unable to make out. A low spit runs to 
 the northward, and the high land trends away to 
 the back of it. 
 
 Iceberg.
 
 Chapter XYII. 
 
 FURY BEACH. 
 
 UNBAY, August drd. — The boats re- 
 turned at four o'clock this morning, 
 and were, as I predicted, unsuccessfu.1, 
 having given up the chase as hopeless. 
 As they pulled towards the ship, the whale gave 
 three or four unusually heavy, and, as it were, defiant 
 and triumphant blasts. Fearing the ice was closing 
 in, the ship's head was pointed to the northward, 
 and shortly after breakfast we were again off Fury 
 Beach. This time the ship was "hove to," and we 
 all went on shore. 
 
 Fury Beach is classic ground in the annals of 
 Arctic adventure. During the stormy month of 
 August, in the year 1825, it was the scene of much 
 heavy work zealously performed, of an cxci'cise of 
 most skilful seamanship, and of the final loss of Her 
 Majesty's ship " Fury." On the 1st of August, 1825, 
 the " Hecla," commanded by Sir Edward Parry,
 
 232 Parry s Expedition. 
 
 and the " Fury/^ under Captain Hoppner, after 
 breaking" out of their winter quarters at Port 
 Bowen^ were making their way up Prince Regent^s 
 Inlet. Among the officers of that expedition were 
 four men^ besides the commanders, who have won 
 a permanent place in oar naval records. James 
 Ross was there, Horatio Austin, Edward Bird, and 
 Crozier, the fu.ture second in command under Sir 
 John Franklin. Parry had a fine staff, and all 
 were full of hope. Suddenly the ice came bodily 
 in, both ships were forced on shore, and no open 
 water could be seen from the mast-head. The 
 "Hecla" was hove off and warped to a floe in the 
 offing; but the '^ Fury^^ leaked so heavily that 
 four pumps were kept constantly going; and it 
 became evident that, if she was to be rendered sea- 
 worthy, she must first be hove down. Parry 
 adopted a most ingenious contrivance to form a 
 sort of basin or wet dock during the operation. 
 Anchors were carried to the beach, having- bower 
 cables attached to them, and passing round the 
 grounded masses of heavy ice. The cables were 
 floated by two hand masts and empty casks being 
 lashed to them, so as to make them receive the 
 pressure of the ice a foot or two below the water. 
 This heavy work was completed during the night 
 of the 5th. For several following days all hands 
 were employed landing provisions, spars, and boats, 
 unrigging the " Fury,^' and landing sails and
 
 Abandonment of the " Fury."' 233 
 
 booms, coals and stores. It was a most animated 
 scene, and every soul was fully employed. Casks 
 were landed by a hawser secured to the mast-head, 
 and set up to an anchor on the beach, the casks 
 being- hooked to a block traversing the hawser as a 
 jackstay, and made to run down it. Nothing could 
 exceed the spirit and alacrity of every individual. 
 The officers of the " Fury " messed and slept in a 
 tent on the beach, while the men were lodged on 
 board the " Hccla.^' By the 18th the " Fury" was 
 completely cleared, and they were in the act of 
 heaving her down, when a storm came on ; there 
 was a heavy sea ; the protecting ice was worn away, 
 the cables slacked up, and the basin thus lost its 
 protection. The " Fury " was once more driven 
 up on the beach by masses of ice ; and by the 
 21st an icy barrier, three or four miles in width, 
 separated the '^Hecla^^ from her doomed consort. 
 On the 25th, Parry, with several officers, went in a 
 boat to Fury Beach, and it was then decided that 
 it would be impossible to make the " Fury " sea- 
 worthy, and that she must be abandoned. Her 
 boats were hauled up clear of the ice, and she was 
 left to her fete. 
 
 When Sir John Ross undertook his expedition 
 in the little " Victory," he relied a good deal on 
 the great store of provisions that had thus been piled 
 on the desolate shore of North Somerset. He 
 landed at Fury Beach on the 12th of August, 1829,
 
 234 llie Rosses at Fury Beach. 
 
 and found the mess-tent of the " Fury's " officers 
 still standings where James Ross, who was with his 
 uncle^ had rested after those days of heavy toil just 
 four years before. The ship had been carried 
 bodily off, probably ground to atoms, and floated 
 away to add to the drift timber of these seas. Ross 
 carried off an immense quantity of stores, ten tons 
 of coal, and sails for housings, and made sail on the 
 14th. 
 
 The Rosses passed three long years on the shores 
 of Boothia to the south, during which time James 
 Ross discovered the magnetic pole. At last the 
 crew of the " A^ictory '' had to abandon her, and 
 retreat to the north in order to seek safety by 
 reaching the whalers in Baffin's Bay. The friendly 
 stores of Fury Beach were to be their half-way 
 resting-place, and they arrived there, travelling 
 wearily over the ice, on June 30th, 1832. Here 
 they built a house, with two rooms, which was 
 named " Somerset House," and then set out in three 
 of the " Fury's " boats for the northward. But 
 they were stopped by the ice near Port Leopold, 
 and resolved to return to Fury Beach, and there 
 pass the winter. The boats were left in Batty Bay, 
 and the Rosses went back on foot, establishing 
 themselves, with their men, in Somerset House, on 
 the 7th of October. Here they lived on the 
 '^ Fury's " stores, and only lost one man during 
 the winter. In July, 1833, they finally departed.
 
 Lieut. Robinson at Funj Beach. 235 
 
 and were picked up by a wlialer in Lancaster 
 Sound. 
 
 In the spring- of 1849^ Lieutenant Robinson, of 
 H.M.S. '^ Enterprise/^ then wintering at Port 
 Leopold, undertook a journey southward, along 
 the coast of North Somerset, and reached Fury 
 Beach on Juno 10th, in the hope and expectation of 
 finding traces of Sir John Franklin's people ; for 
 Crozier, the captain of the " Terror,'' had been a 
 midshipman in the ^^ Hccla " with Parry in 1825, 
 and had shared in the toil of landing all the stores. 
 It was fully anticipated that at least some of the 
 companions of Franklin would have made for this 
 spot, but there was not a trace of them. 
 
 The private searching vessel, " Prince Albert," 
 under Mr. Kennedy, and with Lieutenant Bellot of 
 the French navy on board, wintered during 1851-52 
 in Batty Bay, on the west coast of North Somerset ; 
 and in January, 1852, Kennedy and Bellot undertook 
 a sledge journey to Fury Beach to lay out a depot. 
 They reached the spot on the 8th, and found the 
 framework of Somerset House still standing and 
 entire, but the covering was blown to rags. They 
 lighted a fire in the old stove, supped and dozed 
 over it, and then set out on their return journey to 
 the " Prince Albert " in Batty Bay. In February, 
 Kennedy and Bellot started on a more extended 
 journey, and this time they remained at Fury Beach 
 from the 5th to the 29th of March, taking some of
 
 236 AUeii Young at Fury Beach. 
 
 the stores^ which thoy found to bo in excellent pre- 
 servation. They then set out again, discovered 
 Bellot^s Strait, and i-eturned to Batty Bay, after 
 having travelled right round North Somerset. 
 
 When Sir Leopold McClintock went down Prince 
 Regent^s Inlet in the " Fox" he was off Fury Beach 
 on the 20th of August, 1858, but did not land. 
 In March, 1850, however, Mr. Allen Young left the 
 " Fox " at Port Kennedy with a party consisting of 
 the cook, two Esquimaux, and some dogs, in order 
 to obtain provisions at Fury Beach. He reached 
 the place on the 22nd, when the ground was covered 
 with snow, so that it was necessary to dig down to 
 the casks. After much trouble he obtained what 
 was required, about 8 cwt. of sugar, and some 
 preserved vegetables. His report to Sir Leopold 
 McClintock was, that the stores were so covered 
 with deep snow that it was impossible to take an 
 account of them, but that he had found some casks 
 of sugar, tobacco, peas, and flour, a very little coal, 
 and two boats — one a fovir-oared gig-, the other a 
 cutter with the side cut out as if for making a flat 
 sledge. Allen Young returned to the " Fox " on 
 the 28th, after a very severe journey across heavy 
 hummocks in Creswell Bay, where his sledge broke 
 down, and he became snow blind, and had to be left 
 alone in a bag in the middle of the bay for forty- 
 eight hours, whilst his companions made progress 
 with the heavy load.
 
 On Classic Ground. 237 
 
 No living- soul had landed on Fury Beach since 
 March, 1859. I looked upon it as classic ground, 
 for here Parry, Hoppner, James Ross, l^ird, Austin, 
 and Crozior had displayed all the finest qualities of 
 seamen in 1824. Here the Rosses wintered in 
 1833 ; here Kennedy and the gallant Bellot had 
 rested in 1852 ; and this was the scene of Allen 
 Young's severe work in 1859. 
 
 Casks, spars, rigging, and a perfect assortment 
 of ship's stores were strewn about in all directions. 
 Two boats were hauled up on the beach. One was 
 in pieces, as described by Allen Young ; but the 
 gig", on a pinch, might be made seaworthy. It is 
 a 22-foot four-oared gig, painted black with a green 
 ribbon, the paint appearing tolerably fresh. The 
 other had been a larger boat, about 30 feet long. 
 It has '' W. 1824 ^ ." on its stem — being a Wool- 
 wich-built boat. On the stern the name of G. 
 Fowler J June lOtJo, 1849, was cut, — a marine belong- 
 ing to the party of Lieutenant Robinson, — under 
 which our doctor carved his own name : A. Graham, 
 August 3 re?, 1873. The gig had been built either 
 at Devonport or Deptford, and had on its stem 
 "XXII. f. D. 24." The remains of Somerset 
 House, which had fallen or been blown down, were 
 lying between the two boats, the framework being 
 composed of spars. The running rigging of the 
 " Fury " had all been unrove, and was l^'iug on the 
 beach, jagged up in five-fathom lengths. The top-
 
 238 Stores of the " Fimjr 
 
 sail yards Avcro also on tlie beach ; but there were 
 no signs whatever of the hull of the ship^ or of 
 her lower masts and yards. She must have been 
 crushed up or carried away by the ice many years ago. 
 Three bower anchors were on the beach^ one of them 
 having a large 10-inch hawser attached to it. They 
 were 22 and 25 cwt. anchors, the latter being a 
 patent one, marked B. F. Hairhins. There were 
 many hundred tins of preserved beef and vege- 
 tables, and also what one of the men informed me 
 was " consecrated " gravy, all in an admirable state 
 of preservation, after a lapse of nearly fifty years. 
 The flour was all perished, but the sugar and tobacco 
 appeared to be good. One would have imagined it 
 had been the wreck of a whaler instead of a man-of- 
 war, for a perfect set of whaling implements, inclu- 
 ding harpoons and lances, was on the beach. 
 Readers of Parry^s voyage will remember that Ross 
 and Sherer succeeded in killing a '' payable " whale 
 ofi" Port Bowen,^ The metal powder-cases had all 
 been broken open, and some of the powder was 
 scattered about. I tried some of it, which ignited, 
 but it burnt slowly. 
 
 On landing I found a pair of large deer antlers, 
 of which I made prize. As I could not find the 
 skull, they had probably been shed there by the 
 
 1 Parry's " Third Voyage," p. 89.
 
 Examining a Grave. 239 
 
 animal itself. The marks of bears' teeth and claws 
 were plainly visible on some of the casks, the wood 
 of one containing flour having been literally gnawed 
 through. 
 
 Seeing- a cairn near the water's edge, I hurried 
 towards it, and quickly demolished the heap in the 
 expectation of finding some record, but, after an 
 hour's hard work with pick and shovel, I was horri- 
 fied to find that it was a grave, the body having 
 been sewn up in canvas instead of a coSin. I care- 
 fully replaced everything, endeavouring to give the 
 heap more the shape and appearance of a grave than 
 a cairn. It must have been the body of Chimham 
 Thomas, the carpenter of the " A^ictory," with Sir 
 John Ross, who died on February 22nd, 1833. His 
 is the only body that is buried on Fury Beach. He 
 was aged forty- eight, and his constitution had been 
 undermined by long service in the first Burmese 
 war, and on the American lakes, before he ever made 
 an Arctic voyage. It is very strange that this poor 
 man should have been buried so near the water, for 
 a more desirable site could easily have been found 
 further inland. 
 
 Two 32-pounder carronades and a small gun- 
 carriage, with a large amount of shot of all descrip- 
 tions, were lying about. A pistol was also picked 
 up, one of the old navy pattern. I found an old 
 rusty knife, which, with a good harpoon, -^ broken
 
 240 A Ramble near Fury Beach. 
 
 pair of binoculars^ left by Lieutenant Robinson in 
 1849, and tlie antlers, will be my souvenirs of Fury 
 Beach. 
 
 Leaving this curious scene, I scaled the hills in 
 rear of the beach, accompanied by Dr. Bessels. 
 They vise in terraces to a height of about 500 feet, 
 stretching away landward in long and smooth un- 
 dulations. From the summit I obtained a view of 
 the opposite shore, and could distinctly see Cape 
 Kater and Cape Garry. The ice seemed to remain 
 in the centre of the strait, leaving a clear open 
 water along the coast. We found several granitic 
 boulders on the top, conclusive evidence of the 
 upheaval of the land, which is composed of Silu- 
 rian limestone. I was fortunate enough to pick 
 up a few fossils, and brought away several geolo- 
 gical and botanical specimens. 
 
 We returned to the ship at three o'clock, and 
 then stretched away towards the ice in the centre of 
 the strait. It turned out a very wet afternoon and 
 evening', rain falling heavily at times. The sun is 
 gradually declining, and it will not be long before 
 we lose our midnight sun, which will be a source of 
 regret, as I do the greater part of my work at 
 night, when everything is quiet. I was much 
 amused to-day at the curious fancies which sailors 
 sometimes take into their heads. One of the men 
 was suffering from a severe cold and sore throat, 
 and, having given the doctor's prescriptions a trial
 
 Sailors' Curious Fancies. 
 
 241 
 
 without alleviating the symptoms, he determined 
 to try a remedy of his own. Accordingly, having 
 obtained a raw salt herring from the steward and 
 taken the bone out, he applied it to his neck, tying, 
 a handkerchief over it, and keeping it on all night. 
 He assured me in the morning that he had defived 
 much benefit from its effects. 
 
 Kinir L)uL'k8.
 
 Chapter XVIII. 
 
 CAPE GARRY. 
 
 ONDAY, August 4th. — Last nighty just 
 as I was going" to bed^ Bannerman, 
 wliose middle watch it was, came down 
 and asked me if I would like to go 
 away with him after unies, two having- already been 
 harpooned, adding that a bear had been seen on the 
 ice. I did not require much persuasion to go, and 
 taking my rifle, we were soon pulling about after 
 narwhals, Bannerman as steersman and I as har- 
 pooneer. Soon we espied a large bear, apparently 
 asleep on the floe ; but the ice being loosely packed, 
 we were unable to approach within 500 yards with 
 the boat. We therefore jumped out on the ice, and 
 endeavoured to make our way towai-ds the animal. 
 This was by no means easy, as the floes were in 
 some places so far apart as to render it impossible 
 to jump across; we were therefore compelled in 
 these places to push the floes over with boat-hooks.
 
 A Large Bear. 243 
 
 wliicli we had taken tho precaution to bring with 
 us. Great care had also to be taken to avoid falling- 
 through, as the ice was very thin and treacherous, 
 added to which it was drifting rapidly to th^ south- 
 ward ; so, had either of us fallen in, tho ice would 
 have passed over before we could have had a chance 
 t»f getting out. After some little time we got within 
 150 yards of Master Brunie, who had being lying 
 quiet all the time. Having arrived at that distance, 
 in our anxiety to get near, we jumped on a piece of 
 rotten ice, which instantly gave way with an un- 
 pleasant crumbling noise. Fortunately, we were 
 able to scramble out, wet only to the waist. The 
 noise, however, disturbed Bruin, who, raising his 
 head, surveyed us intently. Bannerman fired, but 
 missed, which caused the bear to get up and medi- 
 tate a retreat, when I fired, striking him just behind 
 the head, and rolling him completely over. He 
 gathered himself up again pretty smartly, when 
 I again fired, the ball passing through his neck. 
 J]y this time, having run on in a frantic manner, 
 splashing through water and ice alike, I had come 
 close up to our friend, who, seeing me, rushed, 
 open-mouthed, towards mo. When he got within 
 five yards^ distance I fired, the bullet striking be- 
 tween the two eyes, and at once terminating his 
 sufferings. He is the largest we have yet shot — 
 fully ten feet in length. After flinching him we 
 had the unpleasant task of dragging the skin down
 
 244 Preccmous Position. 
 
 to tlie boat. If our journey towards the bear was 
 bad, our return was far worse. On arriving at the 
 boat we found, to our chagrin, that she was com- 
 pletely beset, the ice having closed in all round. 
 To wait longer would only make matters worse, so 
 we had to look our difficulties resolutely in the face 
 and commence action. For upwards of an hour* 
 were we breaking through thin ice, or hauling the 
 boat bodily up on a large floe, dragging her across, 
 and launching her on the other side. It had one 
 good effect, which was that of keeping us warm, so 
 as to counteract the effects of our wetting. Matters 
 were beginning to look rather serious, steady rain 
 and thick weather having set in, when, fortunately, 
 they saw from the ship the unpleasant predicament 
 in which we were placed, and the captain, ordering 
 steam to be got up, bored a passage to us through 
 the ice, and so relieved us from our troubles. It 
 was past 3 a.m. when we got on board. We were 
 in a most filthy condition, for the boat we were in 
 was the " mollio " boat, that is, the one employed 
 alongside a whale during the process of flinching, 
 and everything was covered wjth a thick coat of 
 dirty grease. It has been a disagreeable, thick, rainy 
 day, but I am glad to say we are again steaming to 
 the southward, and are this evening in Creswell Bay ; 
 and though there seems no chance of going north, 
 yet much may be done in Prince Regent's Inlet. 
 Tuesday, Aiigud btli. — This morning found us
 
 Position of Cape Garry. 245 
 
 well inside Creswell Bay, and, being clear, I suc- 
 ceeded in getting good sights and bearings, but, 
 unfortunately, the horizon was rather hazy. Cape 
 Garry appeared to me to be placed too far to the 
 southward and eastward. It was originally laid 
 down by Parry, in 1819, nearly in its true position, 
 although he only took a bearing from some dis- 
 tance. Its removal further south appears to have 
 been due to Sir John Koss, and is certainly erro- 
 neous. I was in great hopes of landing, and had 
 everything ready to fix its position, but a reef ap- 
 pearing to run off the point and the water shoaling, 
 warned the captain of hidden dangers, and he there- 
 fore, much to my disappointment, though perhaps 
 very wisely, tacked and stood to the northward. 
 However, it would have been foolish to have acted 
 otherwise, and to risk a full ship close to what was 
 considered a reef. We got soundings about six 
 miles from Cape Garry in 30 fathoms, hard bottom, 
 no particle of any description adhering to the arming 
 of the lead. A boat was sent away to sound in the 
 direction of the cape, obtaining 25 fathoms, gra- 
 dually shoaling to four within three or four miles of 
 the land, which projects out from the cape about 
 two or three miles, forming a long, low spit. The 
 bottom appeared to be sandy, a minute portion being 
 brought on board that had been drawn up with the 
 lead. I examined it through a magnifying glass, 
 and found that it was evidently formed from sand-
 
 246 Soundings. 
 
 stoue, tliougli I detected a small fragment of shell. 
 It seems to me rather inexplicable that the bottom 
 should consist of sandstone^ whilst the land is com- 
 posed of limestone. The bottom I obtained at El- 
 wyn Inlet, at a depth of 190 fathoms, was limestone, 
 the same as the land. The ice appears not only to 
 be drifting to the southward, but also to be breaking 
 uj), so I trust we may yet have a chance of pushing 
 up the inlet. I should have liked to have obtained 
 more soundings to-day, but the ship was going too 
 fast through the water. 
 
 Thursday, August 7tJi. — -We passed Fury Beach at 
 midnight last night, and I doubt very much whether 
 we shall go to the southward of it again. The cap- 
 tain kept us up and amused till past two this 
 morning, reciting Shakspeare, singing songs, per- 
 forming the showman, and indulging in various 
 other accomplishments too numerous to mention. 
 He has certainly a wonderful memory. In the 
 afternoon, several of what the captain calls " sword 
 fish " were seen, and the boats were sent to attempt 
 the capture of one ; but they were flying so fast 
 through the water, and were so wild, that our boats 
 were unable to approach within striking distance. 
 These fish appear to be the regular grampus, having 
 a dorsal fin, and being apparently about twenty feet 
 long. They are the whales' most inveterate ene- 
 mies, scaring them away directly they appear in 
 their neighbourhood ; and the captain is convinced
 
 Continued thick Weather. 247 
 
 that in consequence of our meeting them we shall 
 see no whales for some time. Their blast is much 
 heavier than that of a narwhal. No one on board 
 this ship has ever seen one of these sword fish 
 caught. The ice both yesterday and to-day has 
 been drifting rapidly to the northward, that is, out 
 of the inlet, and is also breaking up quickly, and in 
 a few days, if we remain, I expect open water will 
 be visible as far as it is possible for us to see up the 
 inlet. 
 
 Friday, August 8th. — A miserable, cloudy, wet 
 day. I almost wish winter would set in, as rain 
 on board these ships is most disagreeable — far 
 worse than snow. Shoals of grampus were seen 
 to-day, which is, I am afraid, a strong indication 
 that we shall get no whales for some time. Our 
 worthy skipper is somewhat changeable in his 
 plans and ideas. Yesterday he was all for going- 
 north and visiting the ^^ Polaris;" to-day he is 
 going to remain in Regent's Inlet until the end of 
 this month, and push up to the head of the Gulf 
 of Boothia as far as Committee Bay. Whichever 
 he does will afford me great pleasure, though 1 
 should prefer the former. This thick weather is 
 much against taking observations. I must hope 
 for a change for the better when we get upon un- 
 explored ground. 
 
 Sunday, August 10th, 3 a.m. — I have just re- 
 turned on board from a long, cold, wcainsomc pull
 
 248 Fury Point passed. 
 
 after fisli. We have been again amongst them, 
 but though successful in one instance,, have on 
 the whole been most unlucky. We passed Fury 
 Point early in the morning, and I obtained excel- 
 lent sights, fully corroborating all my previous 
 work. Cape Garry is really fifteen miles to the 
 northward of the position assigned to it on the 
 chart, and very nearly in the position originally 
 given to it by Parry. The ice is much further to 
 the southward and westward than it was a few days 
 ago. At noon we were abreast of Cape Garry, 
 about twelve miles distant. The land was plainly 
 visible to the southward, trending in a S.S.W. direc- 
 tion, and beyond that, low land was seen, which I 
 take to be the north coast of Boothia Felix, so that 
 we have really seen the continent of America. At 
 1 P.M., as I was busy working out my sights, a 
 great commotion overhead told me that whales 
 were in sight, and on going on deck the captain 
 hailed from the nest to say he saw any amount, and 
 was certain that we could get enough to fill us up. 
 The ship was hove to, and all boats lowered away, 
 I steering Bannerman. We had not left the ship 
 five minutes before a fish rose close to us. I swept 
 round ; we pulled up quickly ; the mate fired, and 
 we were fast. About three minutes afterwards 
 Harky Hunter got fast, and then Jemmy Grey. 
 Three fish in less than ten minutes ! Unfortunately 
 they all took to the ice, and it was a work of great
 
 Successful Explori?i(j Expedition. 249 
 
 difficulty^ not unattended with danger, to get near 
 them. Eventually one was killed, but the other two 
 got away. Ours took out nearly two miles of line, 
 which must have chafed on the rocky bottom, as it 
 parted about fifty fathoms from the harpoon, so we 
 had the delightful occupation of hauling in the line 
 with nothing at the end of it. We got back to the 
 ship about eight, and after some refreshment started 
 again on another unsuccessful expedition after 
 whales. At midnight a fresh breeze sprang up ahead 
 as we were returning, which made it bitterly cold, 
 and also unpleasant to steer, the sea rising and nearly 
 unshipping the steer-oar at every toss, and we came 
 on board, wet, cold, and discontented. I have now 
 just got up, and find that we are off Cape Garry, 
 and the day fine and clear. The captain made me 
 supremely happy to-day by consenting to my pro- 
 posal of taking the dingy, with the doctor and a 
 couple of volunteers, for the pm-pose of going, up 
 Bellot's Straits, and to bo away three or four days. 
 I have no doubt in that time we might do a good 
 deal. I picked out a piece of gneiss to-day from 
 the gun-harpoon that Jemmy Grey fired yesterday, 
 and which had been dragging along the bottom. 
 
 Monday night, Jhigust \Wb. — Just returned from 
 a short but most successful exploring expedition, 
 very tired, very sleepy, and all my bones aching. 
 Last night, being about eight miles off Cape Garry, 
 the captain consented to my taking the dingy to
 
 250 Remains of an Esquimaux Village. 
 
 t 
 
 go on shore, tolling me to look out for a red ensign 
 
 being hoisted at the fore, as a signal for my imme- 
 diate return, which he would only hoist if he saw 
 the ice setting in. Accompanied by Dr. Bessels 
 and Hermann (one of the " Polaris '* men, a Ger- 
 man), and taking sufficient provisions to last a week, 
 we left the ship at 8 p.m. and stood in with a fair 
 fresh breeze, intending to land in Fearnall Bay, to 
 the southward of Cape Garry. When we arrived 
 within a mile of the shore, I found the water so 
 shallow as to utterly preclude the possibility of 
 landing, the dingy nearly grounding. Bearing 
 up, and running along the coast to the south- 
 ward, we managed to land round a point about 
 six miles from Cape Garry. Leaving Hermann in 
 charge of the boat, the doctor and myself started to 
 explore. Walking was by no means easy, m con- 
 sequence of the numerous streams we had to cross, 
 which, running down from the hills, emptied them- 
 selves into the sea. Having long boots on, this 
 difficulty was overcome by my taking the doctor 
 on mj back and carrying him over. Unfortunately 
 one river was deeper than I imagined, and the 
 water coming over my knees, made me wet for the 
 remainder of the day. Having walked rather more 
 than two miles, we saw with my glasses what we 
 imagined to be the carcase of a whale washed up on 
 the beach, but what was our surprise, when we 
 arrived at the spot, to find traces of a large Esqui-
 
 Walk into the Interior. 251 
 
 maux village^ most of the huts having been actually 
 composed of the ribs and trucks of whales. We 
 counted no less than thirty-four huts, seven of 
 which had originally been made of stone, seven 
 very old ones, and the remainder built from the 
 bones of whales. Sixty skulls had been used to 
 form the foundation and entrances to these "igloos/' 
 It would be interesting to know how these re- 
 mains of whales had reached this place, whether 
 they had been washed on shore, or whether they 
 had been killed by the inhabitants of the settle- 
 ment. Comparing these with the bones which wo 
 found at Fury Beach, and which we knew to be 
 about fifty years of age, I should say that no 
 Esquimaux had been to this locality, at any rate to 
 reside, for fully eighty or a hundred years. I picked 
 up a couple of pieces of bone, which had evidently 
 been used either for a sledge or a kyak. We ob- 
 served traces of deer, bears, foxes, and lemmings, 
 and saw plenty of ducks and brent geese. About 
 1 A.M. we returned to the dingy, and having re- 
 freshed ourselves with Australian mutton and 
 biscuits, made sail again to the southward, the ship 
 being now nearly out of sight on the horizon. 
 Having sailed about six miles along the coast, we 
 landed on a point which formed the north extreme 
 of a large deep bay, unmarked on the chart; where 
 I put up my horizon and got my first set of sights 
 at about 3 a.m. The tide falling rapidly, almost
 
 ■Zd2 Reindeer. 
 
 before wo were aware of it, left our dingy high and 
 drj, so we were compelled to wait for the flood tide. 
 The doctor and mjself started for a walk towards 
 some high hills in the interior. Hoping to see 
 some big game, I took my rifle with me. Having 
 walked a little over six miles, and being rewarded 
 by finding limestone abounding with fossils, and 
 other geological specimens, I saw four deer, a buck, 
 two does, and a fawn, about three hundred yards 
 down a gentle incline between two hills. Ap- 
 proaching as stealthily as possible, I managed to 
 get within 150 yards, and fired at the buck, my 
 bullet taking effect, though not sufliciently to stop 
 him, and I had to fire more than once before I 
 brought him to the ground, the others making off. 
 Now came the question, what were we to do with 
 it ? The idea that two men, not over fresh, should 
 drag a reindeer weighing 200 lbs. over very rough 
 ground, a distance of more than six miles, was 
 simply absurd ; so we resolved to return to the 
 boat, and bring her round to a bay nearer by half 
 a mile than the place where we had left her, and 
 then the three of us start and carry our prize down. 
 Accordingly, acting on this decision, we cleaned 
 it with our penknives, and dragging it about a 
 quarter of a mile to the summit of a hill, we left it 
 in a conspicuous place and returned to the dingy. 
 To ensure our finding it, I tied my pocket-handker- 
 chief to one of its antlers, which blew out famously
 
 Conveying our Game to the Boat. 253 
 
 in the bfeeze. It was eleven before we readied the 
 dingy, very tired and very hungry ; we regaled our- 
 selves on sardines and Australian meat, washed down 
 with a delicious glass of beer. Unfortunately it had 
 clouded over, and I was only able to get one obser- 
 vation of the sun and that none of the best. After a 
 couple of hours' rest, we managed to get the boat 
 afloat, and sailed a little further up the bay, when, 
 making her fast, we all started to bring our game in . 
 We had walked barely half a mile, when I saw a 
 fine buck jumping and skipping about not very far 
 from us. Directing my companions to halt, I ap- 
 proached warily ; but the deer, not liking my looks, 
 began to scamper oflF, when I took a chance shot, the 
 bullet falling short, but splashing the water alongside 
 him, for it was marshy ground. This had the effect 
 of stopping him, and he turned round to look from 
 whence it came, offering me a fine shot. Raising 
 my sight to 300 yards, I fired ; the bullet passing- 
 through his head and killing him at once. He 
 proved to be a fine fat buck, and, overjoyed at our 
 success, we slung him on an oar and carried him 
 down to the dingy, mighty glad to get there, as our 
 shoulders were getting very sore. We then started 
 a second time in search of our first deer, and even- 
 tually found it about five miles and a half from the 
 boat. By this time we were all pretty well done 
 up, so we determined, as the easiest way of carrying 
 it down, to cut it up, which Avas accordingly done.
 
 254 
 
 Return on Board. 
 
 Hermann took the hind quarters, the doctor one 
 fore quarter, I the other and the head. This, with 
 my rifle and ammunition, made a tolerably heavy 
 load for a weary man. I don^t believe I could have 
 gone a mile further, and was most thankful to get 
 down to the boat. I intended going on to the 
 soath point of the bay, and then on to Bellot 
 Straits ; but seeing the red ensign flying on boai'd 
 the ship, we were forced to return, arriving at 
 7 p. M., after a most interesting and successful 
 twenty-four hours^ cruise. 
 
 Deer's head.
 
 Chapter XIX 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 UESDAY, August 12th. — When we 
 came on board last night we were re- 
 ceived with the very pleasing informa- 
 tion that a fine whale, which would 
 probably yield seventeen tons, had been caught 
 during our absence. The men have been engaged 
 since four this morning in making off' the blubber 
 from the last fish. At about nine a tremendous 
 cheering announced the fiict of the ship being full 
 between decks, and nearly ten tons over, which will 
 be stowed in some small supernumerary tanks with 
 which the ship is supplied. We are to all intents 
 and purposes a fidl ship, and have on board the 
 largest cargo of oil that has ever gone home from 
 Baffin's Bay, so it will not be long before we are 
 homeward bound. All day I have been employed 
 skinning the birds I was fortunate enough to ob- 
 tain yesterday, which consist of a king duck and
 
 256 Homeward Bound. 
 
 duckling {Somateria spectahilis) , a long-tailed duck 
 {Fuligula glaciaUs) , and an arctic tern {Sterna 
 arctica) , all good specimens. 
 
 I sliall be able to make a fair delineation of the 
 trend of the land south of Cape Garry, with correct 
 latitude, which I have again confirmed to-day by 
 sights when abreast of the cape. I do not under- 
 stand its position being so much out on the Ad- 
 miralty chart. I feel uncommonly stiff to-day, and 
 all my bones are aching from carrying the deer. 
 We must have walked yesterday upwards of thirty 
 miles, which is a good stretch for one who has been 
 cooped up on board ship for so long as I have. 
 
 Homeward Bound. — I hardly know whether it 
 gives me pleasure or not to write the above words. 
 I am certainly delighted at the idea of going home, 
 but wish I could have done and seen more before 
 returning. 
 
 At five o'clock this afternoon the captain came 
 into my cabin, asking if I could spare him a few 
 minutes' conversation, dm'ing which he told me 
 that he hardly liked risking the ship any longer 
 amongst ice, as she was very deep in the water, and 
 would, consequently, strike very heavy; that he 
 had on board the best cargo that had ever left this 
 part of the world, and that he had only a few small 
 tanks to fill, every other, even the bread and water 
 tanks between decks, being full ; and that he had 
 almost made up his mind to go home. Of course I
 
 The Crew's Decision. 267 
 
 told him he must judge for himself, though^ as far 
 as I was concerned^ I should like to go north. He 
 replied, that he was most anxious to oblige me, and 
 would be guided by circumstances. If there was a 
 southerly wind outside Lancaster Sound he would 
 try and go up. Having made up his mind to go 
 home, he sent for all the harpooneers, saying to them 
 as they came aft, " What do you say, boys, home, 
 or another fish ? " They all with one voice cried, 
 " Home ! " and gave three cheers, which was soon 
 taken up by the men, and continued for some little 
 time, everyone being in the highest spirits. Steam 
 was raised, and the order given to go ahead ; and 
 now the fan is making the ship throb again as we 
 steam past Fury Point and down Prince Regent's 
 Inlet. All my hopes are now centred in a south- 
 erly wind, and plenty of it. We have lost our 
 midnight sun, and for the first time since crossing 
 the Arctic circle I am writing by the light of a 
 candle, though it is quite light enough to do any- 
 thing else but write. 
 
 Wednesday, August 13th. — Unmistakable signs 
 of approaching winter were observed last night, 
 the ship having to steam through a large extent of 
 bay ice.' It is quite surprising the quantity of 
 pack ice that is now in the inlet, much more than 
 when we came up. The late northerly winds must 
 
 ^ Bay ice is newly formed ice. 
 
 S
 
 258 A Monstrous Bear. 
 
 have set it in from Barrow Straits. We attempted 
 to shape our course from Fury Point to Cape York, 
 but the ice proved such an obstruction^ that we had 
 to steam up along the west coast until almost off 
 Port Leopold, before we could strike across the 
 inlet. At eleven this morning two bears were seen 
 on the ice ahead, one very large and the other 
 small. On observing the ship, they took to the 
 water, swimming in different directions. The ship 
 was stopped and the boats lowered, I in the one 
 that went in pursuit of the largest. We had a 
 great deal of trouble in getting near our victim, 
 having to haul the boat through and over large 
 pieces of ice. Eventually we came up pretty close. 
 My companion, who had the first shot, missed ; I 
 then fired, killing the bear instantaneously. He 
 proved a perfect monster, the largest that anyone 
 on board this ship had ever seen, measuring over 
 10 feet, and weighing about 700 lbs. 
 
 The ship is beginning to assume quite a different 
 appearance, all the coal and whalebone having 
 disappeared off the quarter deck, though it is still 
 lumbered up with casks. No attempts at cleaning- 
 have yet been made, beyond scraping the ship — 
 the deck, sides, paint work, skylight, and everything 
 — long layers of greasy substance coming off with 
 each scrape. It will be a great novelty to see the 
 decks washed. The last time such an operation 
 was performed was at Upernivik, more than two
 
 Pass Cape York. 
 
 25!) 
 
 months ago. The day has been very hazy and 
 cloudy, which entirely prevents my completing my 
 observations along this coast. We are obliged to 
 keep clear of the ice, and a long- distance from the 
 shore. I much fear nothing in the way of exploring 
 
 Cape lluy. 
 
 vnW now be done by this ship, and that we shall go 
 straight down Baffin's Bay, not even going through 
 Navy Board Inlet, which the captain alwa\^s said 
 he should do, if it were only for the sake of getting 
 some salmon. At 7.30 this evening we passed 
 Cape York, and shall probably be off Cape Ha}' to- 
 morrow at noon, when the captain must determine
 
 260 Capture of a Young Bear. 
 
 what he is going to do. Half an hour ago two 
 bears, a mother and cub, were seen on the ice, and 
 seizing my rifle, I jumped into one of the two boats 
 that were ordered to be lowered to effect their 
 capture. On pulling up to them, the old bear 
 made a savage attack on the boat, and would very 
 soon have got in and cleared it had I not put a 
 bullet through her head. Taking the old one in 
 tow, we proceeded to secure tlie little one alive, and 
 eventually hoisted it on board, though not with- 
 out some trouble, as it was of a most pugnacious 
 disposition, snapping at everything that came in its 
 way, and roaring and bellowing like a young bull. 
 It is a fine little cub, about two months old. The 
 captain intends taking it home alive. 
 
 Thursday, August 10th. — At ten this morning we 
 passed the mouth of Navy Board Inlet, the captain 
 intending to steam out until he falls in with the ice, 
 when he hopes to pick up another fish, which will 
 completely fill us. At noon we passed Cape Hay, 
 and at four were off Cape Liverpool, when the wind, 
 that had been gradually freshening since the morn- 
 ing, was so strong from the southward that we were 
 obliged to stop steaming, and put the ship under 
 reduced canvas, a nasty sea getting up at the same 
 time. Barometer low, and falling. In the after- 
 noon we bent the mizen-topsail, and unrove the cant 
 and spek tackles. It is very heart-rending getting 
 such a strong head wind, especially at the commence-
 
 A Strong Gale. 261 
 
 ment of our homeward journey. The poor little 
 bear seems to be in a very miserable state^ but 
 whether it is in consequence of its captivity, sea- 
 sickness, or pining for its mother, it is difficult to 
 say. 
 
 Saturday, August IQth. — Yesterday was the most 
 trying- day I have spent on board the " Arctic.^^ 
 
 The wind had gradually increased to a strong 
 gale, accompanied by a heavy sea. As we had 
 come out without making the necessary preparations 
 for bad weather, we were in a pretty pickle. I had 
 not long been in bed when, about 2 a.m., the captain 
 burst into my cabin, and -with his usual, '' Arc you 
 waking, captain ? " inforined me that the dingy had 
 been washed away, and one of the whale boats badly 
 stove. Going on deck, I found things were not 
 quite so bad as represented. The little dingy on 
 being hoisted in-board, was found only slightly 
 damaged ; the barometer was very low, lower than 
 we have experienced this cruise ; it was blowing hard 
 from the southward, and the ship labouring heavily 
 under reefed topsails and foresail. Between decks 
 everything was in a sad state: tanks, whalebone, 
 and seamen's chests were lying about in fearful con- 
 fusion, and it was with no little difficulty that the 
 things could be properly secured. To-day affairs 
 are looking a little brighter ; both wind and sea 
 have gone down considerably, though the barometer 
 still remains unusually low. At 2 p.m. we found
 
 262 Prospects of aii Open Season. 
 
 ourselves exactly in the same position we were forty- 
 eight hours ag'Oj namely^ off Cape Liverpool. We 
 shall be a long time getting home at this rate. 
 Perhaps the low barometer indicates a change of the 
 wind. 
 
 SunrJay, August 17th. — The wind gradually sub- 
 sided until it fell altogether towards the evening, 
 and now wo are, as we suppose, fifty miles off land, 
 about abreast of Pond's Inlet, steaming toward the 
 south. Snow and rain fell at intervals during the 
 day, which was thick and cloudy ; we steamed 
 through several extensive streams of loosely- 
 packed ice, gaining once more smooth water, which 
 is a great comfort. Poor little Bruin is not at all 
 reconciled to his captivity, and has been vainly 
 endeavouring to make a hole through his cask with 
 both teeth and claws. He is a savage little brute, 
 seizing anything within his reaph, and is wonder- 
 fully strong and quick for so small an animal, 
 
 Monday, August ISth. — Several of our old friends, 
 the icebergs, are now in sight in various directions, 
 otherwise there is not a vestige of ice to be seen ; 
 no pack or stream- ice anywhere. The captain has 
 never seen Baffin's Bay so clear, and this augurs 
 well for a good open season next year, as it causes 
 a free passage for the ice to come out of Smith's 
 Sound, while, in case of southerly winds, the ice 
 to the northward will more readily be broken up. 
 Everything points to the ensuing year as being the
 
 Coutts Inlet. 
 
 26a 
 
 season for Arctic exploration. With a stout ship, 
 and a well organized and efficiently conducted 
 expedition, there is no reason why that hitherto un- 
 approachable spot, the jN^orth Pole, should not be 
 reached in a couple of seasons. This morning we 
 
 Bear and White Whale. 
 
 sighted the land about Coutts Inlet, but at such a 
 distance as scarcely to be able to distinguish any- 
 thing. It appears high, undulating land, and is 
 thickly coated with snow. The rapid manner in 
 which changes take place in these regions is most 
 remarkable. This morning, with the exception of 
 a few bergs, there was no ice visible, but this even- 
 ing we are amidst heavy pack-ice, some of the floes
 
 264 Chase after a Bear. 
 
 being- of great magnitude^ which is causing us no 
 little trouble to get through. It has evidently 
 been set up by the late strong southerly winds. We 
 are about thirty miles off Capo Adair. It is most 
 annoying being such a distance from land, for, 
 without making our passag-e longer, it would have 
 been so easy to have steamed along the coast, and 
 we could then have taken some useful observations. 
 This comes of trusting to a compass, when the 
 variation amounts to 130". I had another chase 
 after a bear this afternoon, which we suddenly 
 disturbed in the middle of a feast. He had been 
 so scared by the sight of the ship, that he went 
 away over the ice and through the water at railway 
 speed ; and though we pursued him for half an hour in 
 our boat, we failed to get within shot. We revenged 
 ourselves by taking possession of his dinner, which 
 was found to be a white whale about fifteen feet 
 long. We removed the blubber, the most luxurious 
 part of his repast. This whale must have been 
 hauled up on the ice by the bear. The strength of 
 these animals is truly astonishing. 
 
 Shortly after tea a walrus was seen on a piece of 
 ice, and I went away as boat-steerer in the boat that 
 was lowered for the purpose of effecting its capture. 
 It was a huge monster, weighing at least a ton. 
 We sculled down quietly upon it. W^hen just 
 within shot the creature lifted its head to take a 
 look at us, which movement breaking the piece of ice
 
 Communicate icith the " Victor.'' 265 
 
 on wliicli it lay, it was gradually disappearing, when 
 Deuchars fired, but unfortunately missed, tlie har- 
 poon striking- over. I was sorry we were so unsuc- 
 cessful, as it was a gigantic brute, with tusks over 
 two feet in length. 
 
 Tuesday, August 19tk. — Thick and foggy the 
 greater part of the day, the ship steaming and sail- 
 ing through extensive fields of pack-ice, and along 
 the edge of very heavy floes. Both yesterday and 
 to-day we passed an immense number of grounded 
 icebergs, some of great magnitude, and this will 
 probably account for the presence of so much ice. 
 The floes have been prevented from drifting out by 
 these huge mountains, which most eflectually bar 
 their progress. At about 4 p.m. we sighted and 
 communicated with the little " Victor,^' and took on 
 board her home letters. We also saw the only 
 foreign whaler out, the " Harold,^' a Norwegian. She 
 is clean. ^ At 8 o'clock we saw and communicated 
 with the " Tay,'' and from Captain Gregg's account 
 of the state of the ice I much fear we shall have great 
 trouble in getting into the east water. He says it 
 is impossible to get to it by going south ; unfortu- 
 nately we have a northerly wind, and therefore must 
 take advantage of it ; I have no doubt wc shall be 
 
 ' Being " clean," in whalinsj parlance, means that tlie .'iliip 
 lias been nnsuccessful and obtained no fish. The dirtier the 
 ship the greater the delight of the captain and crew.
 
 266 A?i Addition to our Company. 
 
 able to push through in about the latitude of Home 
 Bay or Exeter Souud. 
 
 We are now nearly in the latitude of Cape Kater 
 of the whalers (Cape Raper of the chart), but 
 nearly thirty miles from land. We see several of 
 the other ships, but it has come on so thick that 
 we must postpone communication with them until 
 morning". It is now miduiu'ht and nearly dark. 
 
 Wednesday, August 20th. — The morning broke 
 fine and clear, and found us surrounded by nearly 
 all the whaling fleet, two or three of which were 
 chasiuo- fish. We have now taken on board from 
 the " Ravenscraig " all the rest of the crew of the 
 " Polaris,^' excepting three that the ^'Intrepid" has 
 on board. With the exception of Morton, all the 
 men we received on board to-day are grey-headed, 
 and certainly not the sort that one would pick out 
 to go to the North Pole ; — I should say the 
 average age of the four would be over fifty years. 
 We now number thirteen in the cabin ; seven sit 
 down at the first table, and the others when they 
 have finished. 
 
 We are threading our way through miles of 
 loose pack-ice towards the southward. It is a 
 dead calm, and we are compelled to have recourse 
 to our unfailing kettle. I hope the coals will last 
 out. This evening at 7.30 I witnessed for the 
 first time a most perfect and brilliant parhelion, the 
 anffle between the true and mock suns being
 
 A Brilliant Parlielion. 
 
 267 
 
 22° 17' 30" and the true altitude of tlie former 
 5° 24' 30"; the mock sun was to the southward of 
 the true one. It is a belief amongst old Arctic 
 sailors that these phenomena always precede bad 
 weather. 
 
 *'«1*1H 
 
 A ■', .f 
 
 Iceber".
 
 Chapter XX. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 HUBSDAY, August 21st.— We are all, 
 especially myself, sadly disappointed 
 with the progress the ship has made 
 during the last twenty-four hours. The 
 uncertainty of everything in these regions sorely 
 tries one^s temper. Last night we got into a fine 
 open water, which we were all convinced would 
 lead us out into the east water somewhere abreast 
 of Home Bay ; and congratulated ourselves accord- 
 ingly. But this afternoon disclosed, to our great 
 disappointment, ice, heavy solid floes, stretching 
 away from the land to the eastward as far as the 
 eye could see, without even a crack or anything 
 approaching a lead through. We are in a regular 
 cul de sac. To add to our misfortune, a fresh 
 breeze has sprung up from the eastward, which 
 will pack all the ice tight up against the land floe, 
 and we may consider ourselves kicky if we avoid 
 getting beset and being jammed up here for a few
 
 Amioi/ing Detentions. 269 
 
 days. Our only way of escape is by retracing our 
 steps to the northward, and getting round the north 
 end of the middle ice ; but the weather has become 
 so thick, accompanied by snow, that it is impossible 
 to see our way out, and we arc now lying, hove to, 
 waiting for it to clear. We received a visit to-day 
 from Captain Gravill, of the " Camperdown," bring- 
 ing us his home letters. At noon to-day we were 
 abreast of Cape Bisson, and I obtained tolerably 
 good sights. 
 
 Friday, August 22n(l. — This detention is most 
 annoying. Ton days ago we considered ourselves 
 homeward bound, and, anticipating a quick run 
 across the Atlantic, were looking forward to being 
 in Dundee by the 1st of September; instead of 
 which we are now jammed in a water hole oS' Cape 
 Kater, with at present no prospect of getting out 
 for some time. The spirits of all on board are in 
 consequence rather depressed. Snow has been 
 falling heavily all day. During the afternoon the 
 wind gradually went down, and we have now a 
 light northerly breeze, and are seeking a passage 
 out through the ice to the eastward. 
 
 Sunday, August 2-ith. — Retracing our steps to 
 the northward. At noon we were as far south as 
 Cape Bisson, but from the masthead nothing ap- 
 peared but an impenetrable sea of ice, a second 
 jNIelville Bay, through which there was no chance 
 of forcing a passage. The helm was accordingly
 
 270 Dreary Prospects. , 
 
 put up, yards squared, and we are running north 
 before a light southerly wind. I am afraid it will 
 take us at least two days to get round the north 
 end of the middle ice. 
 
 Wednesday, August 27 tli. — The last three days 
 have added nothing to our progress. In fact, our 
 prospects of getting home are not nearly so bright 
 as they were fifteen days ago, when the announce- 
 ment that we were homeward bound was received 
 with three cheers by all hands. We have unfor- 
 tunately seen fish, and our captain seems bent on 
 getting more ; he says, " he will be happy with ane 
 or twa mair.^^ The weather is thick, and raining 
 heavily; we are about seventy miles from land, 
 somewhere in the latitude of Cape Hewitt, and are 
 made fast to a floe, taking in water. It is next to 
 impossible to do anything. Euchre commenced at 
 half-past 9 this forenoon, and even with my cabin 
 door shut I cannot avoid hearing incessantly from 
 the adjoining cabin, '^ What's trumps ?" " Steward, 
 a mouthful more of that brandy ; " " Who played 
 the rag?'' "That's mines;" "Guess you're con- 
 siderably euchred;" and various other expressions 
 in Scotch, Yankee, and German accents. Occa- 
 sionally this is varied by a song or story from the 
 skipper. Oh ! for a fresh southerly wind, with no 
 fish to be seen, and we might have a chance of 
 getting round the middle ice into the east water, 
 and then bear away for home.
 
 Sloiv Progress. 271 
 
 Thursday, August 28th. — Still tliick^ fog-gy 
 weather. We have been for the last twenty-four 
 hours threading our way through loose hut heavy 
 floe ice towards the north, making a little easting. 
 If we do not see any fish, I really believe we shall 
 soon get cither into the north or the east water, 
 and then there will be no further cause for delay, 
 and every day will lessen the distance between our- 
 selves and Dundee. The ship strikes the ice very 
 heavily, and it is impossible to avoid occasional 
 collisions, which make the old vessel stagger and 
 reel, shaking everything on the table. Whilst 
 Ijing in bed at night, after one of these shocks, one 
 can distinctly hear the ice cracking and breaking 
 up, and scraping along the ship's side as we forge 
 our way through. 
 
 Saturday, August QOth. — The sun favoured us 
 with his presence for a short time to-day, of which 
 I took advantage to get some sights. We are in 
 about the same latitude as Cape Adair and Black 
 Hook, but not so far to the east as we had hoped. 
 There is now plenty of water, and we are under 
 steam, steering to the south-cast, with a fine water 
 sky ahead. Occasionally we are brought to a stop 
 by a large floe, and have to seek our way round it ; 
 but, taking all things into consideration, our pros- 
 pects are decidedly brighter than they have been 
 for some time. 
 
 9 P.M. — I have just come below from "vvitucssing
 
 272 Get into the East Water. 
 
 one of the most glorious sunsets it lias ever been 
 mj lot to see. For the last eight hours we have been 
 boring through closely packed ice, having been drawn 
 into this extravagant proceeding in consequence of 
 noticing a slight swell, which we, perhaps too san- 
 guine, attribute to our proximity to the east water. 
 No less than five bears were seen at different times 
 this afternoon. I had a long chase on the ice after 
 three of them, but could not get within eight hun- 
 dred yards, and was not sorry to get on board the 
 ship again, the ice being very thin and brashy, 
 which, however, makes it easy to steam through. 
 
 Sunday, August 31 si. — Last night, about 11 
 o'clock, to the great delight of every one, we 
 emerged into the east water, and a course was 
 shaped to take us down to Cape Farewell. Allow- 
 ance, however, had not been made for indentations 
 in the ice, and early this morning, a thick fog 
 coming on, we found ourselves as badly off as ever, 
 surrounded by loose pack. We took advantage of 
 this delay to make fast to an iceberg, and took in 
 about eight tons of ice, which will be equivalent to 
 about six tons of water. Clearing up again at noon, 
 we once more steamed into open water, and now 
 really begin to look upon our troubles as being 
 over and ourselves as actually homeward bound. 
 
 Monday, September \st. — All doubts about being 
 in the east water were entirely dissipated this morn- 
 ing. No pack-ice was to be seen anywhere, and
 
 Prepared to cross the Atlantic. '21 o 
 
 we are now bowling along, at the rate of seven or 
 eight knots, before a strong northerly wind and 
 high sea. We passed several large icebergs dur- 
 ing the day. This evening we are in about the 
 latitude of Lievely, though many miles distant, 
 being in the centre of Davis^ Straits. If this wind 
 lasts we shall be off Cape Farewell in three days. 
 The boats have been denuded of their whaling gear, 
 and are hoisted in-board, and we are now prepared 
 in every way to cross the Atlantic. 
 
 Friday, September bth. — Head winds, fair winds, 
 and light winds, accompanied by a nasty jumble of 
 a sea, have been our lot for the last three days, 
 during which no sights. We imagine ourselves to 
 be about one hundred miles north-west of Cape 
 Farewell, which we hope to see to-morrow morning. 
 I do not think we can be very far off land, as this 
 evening I caught a small bird like a linnet, which 
 had been blown off shore, 
 
 Tuesday, September 9th. — Of all the wretched, 
 miserable, and comfortless days I have ever spent, 
 the last four have eclipsed them. During the last 
 twenty-four hours we have certainly had a fair 
 wind, which in some degree compensates for the 
 discomfort and cheerlcssness of the previous days. 
 " Battyfanging ^' about off Cape Farewell, with 
 strong variable winds and a heavy cross sea, 
 would not be cheerful on board any ship ; however, 
 it will all be at an end, I hope, in another week. 
 
 T
 
 274 Fairly on our Way Home. 
 
 The weather is getting oppressively warm, and the 
 fire in the cabin has been allowed to go out for the 
 first time since leaving Scotland. The thermo- 
 meter has been as high as forty-seven degrees. We 
 have caught two more small birds, one a linnet and 
 the other a finch, which have been blown off to us 
 from the Greenland shore during the late northerly 
 winds. ' AVe are now, I am happy to say, well round 
 the cape and in the broad Atlantic, and are hoping 
 for a succession of westerly winds. It has been 
 perfectly impossible to do anything during the last 
 few days ; even now the ship is so lively as to com- 
 pel me to hold on to the inkstand with one hand 
 while I write with the other. 
 
 Tliursday , September lltli. — A fine clear day, 
 with a light north-easterly wind, the ship progress^ 
 ing slowly at the rate of three knots an hour ; but 
 better that than being becalmed or having a head 
 wind. Advantage was taken of the fine weather to 
 wash and dry all the whale lines, which were towed 
 overboard in a bight astern after the greasy places 
 had been washed with fresh water and soft soap. 
 On the arrival of the ship in harbour they will be 
 removed to a loft on shore, where they will be 
 thoroughly examined as to their fitness for another 
 season. The harpoon guns are all carefully lubri- 
 cated, sewn up in canvas, and stowed away for the 
 winter. Men are going about the upper deck with 
 paint brushes and paint of various colours, and giv-
 
 Painting the Ship. 275 
 
 ing a daub here and a patch there. This is what 
 they call a priming coat, preparatory to painting. 
 The funnel is being scraped at the same time, the 
 dust from which, by sticking to the newly painted 
 spots, gives them a somewhat novel appearance, 
 resembling pepper and salt. 
 
 Saturday, September l;3^/i. — Yesterday evening 
 a fresh westei'ly wind sprang up, which has blown 
 us at least two hundred miles nearer our destination 
 during the last twenty-four hours. I much fear it 
 will not continue, as it is inclined to head round to 
 the southward and eastward, though at present we 
 are going along at the rate of ten knots. Being 
 fine, all hands were employed painting ship. The 
 paint was laid on thickly and over dirt, without any 
 regard to the blending of colour, of which there is 
 great variety; red, blue, green, yellow, grey, black, 
 and white, were put on wherever there was a vacant 
 spot, the numerous shades, as the captain says, 
 affording a pleasing relief. (?) 
 
 Sunday, September lith. — We have lost our fine 
 fair wind, which has been succeeded by an easterly 
 one, dead ahead, leaving a heavy sea, in which we 
 are tossing about in a most uncomfortable manner. 
 Yesterday we were calculating upon getting into 
 Dundee on Thursday, and now the chances are 
 against our being there before this day week, un- 
 less the wind should shift or go down altogether, 
 in which latter case I think we should have almost
 
 276 Pentland Firth. 
 
 sufficient coal to steam the remainder of the dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Monday, September IhtU. — This forenoon^ having 
 a light air from the southward^ steam was raised, 
 and "we have been steaming easy since 11 a.m. 
 One or two land birds were seen flying about the 
 ship, though not sufficiently exhausted to alight. 
 They were, however, a welcome sight, denoting the 
 proximity of old England, distant between four and 
 five hundred miles. 
 
 Wednesday, September 17th. — It is now a Httle 
 past midnight, and we are just at the entrance of 
 the Pentland Firth, bowling along before a strong 
 westerly gale, under sail and steam, at the rate of 
 ten or eleven knots an hour. It has been thick 
 and raining all day, and for two days we have had 
 no sights, notwithstanding which we have made a 
 capital landfall, sighting the small islands of Barra 
 and Rona at 3 p.m., after which the wind sprang up, 
 gradually freshening to a gale, but a fair one. We 
 sighted the light on Cape Wrath at half-past 7, 
 and hope to get through the Firth by 3 a.m. If 
 this wind lasts, there is a chance of getting to 
 Dundee to-morrow night. 
 
 Thursday, September 18th. — Got through the 
 Firth by 4 a.m. ; a heavy following sea, and raining 
 hard. At 11 we anchored off Peterhead, and 
 landed our Shetland men. We weighed again at 7, 
 and shall be in Dundee to-morrow morning.
 
 Valedictory. 277 
 
 Here ends the story of my whaling cruise in 
 Baffin's Bay. Before, however, I take my leave, 
 I must record my gratitude to those gallant seamen 
 with whom it was my lot to be shipmate during 
 my voyage in the good ship " Arctic/' From the 
 jovial and kind-hearted captain downwards, I always 
 received the greatest respect and consideration. In 
 fact, I was treated, if possible, with too great 
 tenderness. When away in the boats assisting 
 them in their calling, I was after a time not even 
 permitted to pull an oar, but was always requested 
 to take charge of the steer oar, a duty which they 
 were aware occasioned me a great deal of pleasure. 
 
 Everything that was in any way conducive to my 
 wishes and amusement was immediately carried into 
 effect ; and though our living was a little of the 
 roughest, still there was that air of genuine hos- 
 pitality about it which made our everlasting salt 
 beef and biscuit a most cheering and appetizing 
 banquet. My cruise in a Dundee whaler to Baffin's 
 Bay will be one not quickly or easily forgotten by 
 me, and I shall always look forward with pleasure 
 to the chance (I am afraid a very poor one) of 
 meeting my old shipmates again; nor will the 
 survivors from the " Polaris," with whom it was 
 my lot to associate for nearly three months, be 
 forgotten. To Dr. Bessels I owe a great deal ; he 
 assisted me most materially in taking my observa- 
 tions, and in the collection of specimens which I
 
 278 
 
 Conclusion. 
 
 brought to England. I trust lie will reap the 
 reward of his own exertions, whilst chief of the 
 scientific department on board the " Polaris." 
 
 I have also to thank Dr. Soutar, the surgeon of 
 the " Ravcnscraig," for his valuable assistance in 
 the illustration of this work. 
 
 If I have succeeded in interesting my readers 
 in this attempt to depict life on board a whale-ship 
 engaged in the fishery in Bafiin^s Bay, and the 
 perils and dangers incidental to that occupation, 
 and have also excited some little interest regarding 
 those regions which McClintock, Osborn, and others 
 of Arctic renown, have already so ably described, I 
 shall feel myself amply rewarded. 
 
 Arctic Fox.
 
 Appe)idix A. 
 
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 280 
 
 Appendix A. 
 
 NOTE ON THE BOILING DOWN OF THE 
 BLUBBEK, 
 
 HE blubber on board the whaling steamers arrives 
 at Dundee in large tanks. It is there filled into 
 casks, and taken to the boil-yai'd, to have the oil 
 extracted. This operation is done by steam, in large coppers 
 holding blubber sufficient to yield ten tons of oil. The seal 
 blubber is so fresh when landed that it used to be kept stored 
 in the boil-yard for six or eight weeks, until it was so decom- 
 posed that the oil might be easily taken out of it. But within 
 the last year, the "Dundee Seal and Whale Fishing Com- 
 pany" have fitted up machinery for cutting and crushing the 
 bhibber, and can now boil it down as soon as it is landed. 
 For some puq^oses the oil tlius reduced is more valuable. 
 After being boiled, the oil is allowed to settle in coolers, and 
 is then run into large stormg tanks, ready for delivery as 
 required.
 
 Appendix B. 
 
 281 
 
 AprENDix B. 
 
 ARCTIC PLANTS COLLECTED BY CAPTAIX A. H. 
 
 MARKHAM, R.X., F.R.G.S. 
 
 1873. 
 
 Name. 
 Ranunculus glacialis (Z.) 
 Papaver alpinuni (Z.) 
 
 Lychnis apetola (Z.) 
 Stellaria Edwardsii {R. Br.) 
 Dryas octopetala (Z.) 
 Saxiiraga caespitosa (Z.) 
 
 ,, nivalis (Z.) Fury Beach. 
 
 „ flagellaris ( TF/ZW.) Fury Beach. 
 
 „ oppositifolia (Z.) Port Leopold 
 Pedicularis hirsiita (Z.) 
 
 Locality. 
 Fury Beach. Elwyn Inlet. 
 Fury Beach. Elwyn Inlet. 
 
 Navy Board Inlet. 
 Fury Beach. 
 
 Elwyn Inlet. Fury Beach. 
 Navy Board Inlet. 
 Furv Beach. 
 
 Navy Board 
 
 Inlet. 
 Fury Beach. 
 14' S. of Cape Gariy. 
 Fury Beach. 
 6' S. of Cape Garry. 
 
 Elwyn Inlet. 
 Inlet. Elwyn 
 
 Juncus biglumis (Z.) 
 
 Salix arctica (i?. Br.) 
 
 Alopecurus alpinus (Z.) 
 
 Festuca ovina (L.) var. 
 
 Pleuropogon Sabini (i?. Br.) Fury Beach. 
 
 Lichens. 
 Platysma juniperinuiu (Z.) 6' S. of Cape Garry. 
 
 Beach. 
 Alectoria ochroleuca (EhrJi.) Fury Beach. 
 
 Fury 
 
 Plants from 82° N. ; from the collectiox of Dr. 
 Bessei^s. 
 Draba alpina (Z.) 
 Cerastium alpinum (Z.) 
 Taraxacum Dens-leonis {Desf. var.) 
 Poa flexuosa (Wulil.)
 
 282 Appendix B. 
 
 NOTE BY J. D. HOOKER, C.B., P.R.S. 
 
 APTAIX MARKHAM'S collection contains twenty 
 !^pecies of flowering plants, including four collected 
 bj Dr, Bessels in the highest latitude from which 
 flowering plants have hitherto been obtained, namely 82° N. 
 They are Draha alpina, Cerastium alpinum. Taraxacum 
 De/is-leom's, and Poa jiexuosa. All of them are common 
 Arctic plants, being found on both coasts of Greenland, as 
 well as throughout the Parry Islands. Of the other species, 
 collected by Captain Markham himself, the Arctic distribution 
 is well known. None of them belong to the remarkable 
 assemblage of Scandinavian plants which inhabit Greenland, 
 and of which no member has hitherto been found on the 
 eastern sliores of Bafiia's Bay. On the other hand, one of 
 tliem is a member of that far smaller number which has never 
 been found on the Greenland coast. This is the peculiar and 
 beautiful little Pleuropogon Sabini, the only genus which is 
 absolutely confined to the Arctic regions, and of which the 
 solitary species is restricted in its distribution to the Arctic 
 American Islands. It was discovered by Captain, now 
 General Sir Edward, Sabine, in Melville Island, during Parry's 
 first voyage in 1819-20, and is probably found in all the 
 islands. Captain Markham's specimen was gathered on Fury 
 Beach. 
 
 The other species call for no special remark. They are 
 interesting as, in several cases, coming from places where the 
 same plant had not previously been gathered. These locali- 
 ties arc valuable, as completing our knowledge of the area 
 inhabited by such sjiecics, though they do not materially 
 enlaroe it.
 
 Appendix C. 283 
 
 Appendix C. 
 LIST OF GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS 
 
 COLLECTKD BY 
 
 CAPTAIX A. II. MARKIIA:\I, R.X., F.R.G.S., 
 
 AND EXAMINED BY 
 
 R. ETHBRIDGE, Esq., 
 Museum of Practical, Geology. 
 
 PERNIVIK. — L Syenite, much resembling the Lau- 
 rentian series of Cape Wrath (Sutherlandshire). 
 2. Crystals of felspar, also like those in the Suther- 
 landshire rocks. 3, 4. Quartz rocks. 
 
 Elwyn Inlet. — Piece of quartz rock, and quartzite. 
 
 Cape Hay. — Two pieces of limestone, extremely like that 
 of the Durness in N. W. Sutherlandshire, of Llandeilo age 
 (Lower Silui'ian). — Two specimens of Saxicava rugosa, from 
 150 feet above the sea level. 
 
 Navy Board *Inlet. — Specimens of fundamental gneiss 
 like that of Cape Wrath, hornblende rock, mica schist, quartz- 
 ite, and magncsian limestone. 
 
 Port Leopold. — Syenite, felspar, and quartz, like the 
 Cape Wrath rocks. An altenaation of limestone and sand- 
 stone, probably Silurian. Gneissose rock, much the same as 
 the fundamental gneiss of N. W. Sutherlandshire. A specimen 
 showing annelide tracks, in fine-grained sandstone. 
 
 Fury Beach. — Specimens of gneiss, hornblende, quartz, 
 and gneissose rock, much like the fundamental series of 
 Sutherlandshire. Argillaceous limestone, with the following 
 Ibssils of the Upper Silurian age: — Favosites (two specimens) ; 
 Athijris, sp. (two specimens) ; JIulopella, sp.
 
 284 
 
 Appendix C. 
 
 Cape Garry. — Hornblende, and quartz rock stained red 
 colour. Crystals of calcareous spar (carbonate of lime), con- 
 cretionary limestone. Limestone containing several fossils of 
 uncertain age. Chonetes and Terehratula of the Upper 
 >>ilnrian age. 
 
 Several of the specimens, having been picked up on the 
 beach, are much waterworn. 
 
 Mollies.
 
 Appendix D. 
 
 285 
 
 Appendix D. 
 
 LIST OF BIRDS SHOT. 
 
 ■^jYli Falcon [Falco gyrfalcn) 
 
 Snow Bunting (^Emheriza nivalis) ' 
 
 Redcap, and Finches . 
 King and Eider Duck {Somatei'ia spectahilis and iiinl- 
 lissimci) ...... 
 
 Long-tailed Duck (Fuligula glacialis) 
 Loom. (^Uria B runic hi i) .... 
 
 Dovekey ( Uria grylle) . . 
 
 Little Auks or Rotges {Alca alle) 
 
 (IhuicoMs G\\\l {Lams glaucus) . 
 
 Ivory Gull {Lui'us eburneus) 
 
 Fulmar Petrel or "^Mollies" {Procella?'iu glacialis) 
 
 Arctic Tern {Sterna arctica) .... 
 
 I 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1.5 
 
 10 
 
 800 
 
 100 
 
 500 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 The nest was also obtained.
 
 28G Scientific Results of 
 
 Appendix' E. 
 
 MEMORANDUM FOR THE ARCTIC COMMITTEE 
 
 OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY. 
 
 June, 1873. 
 
 fHE Arctic Committee of the Rojal Geographical 
 ^-n-f^'' Society submitted to the committee apj^ointed by 
 
 S^^^fetf i the Council of the Royal Society to confer with 
 them, the following memorandum on the subject of a renewal 
 of Arctic exploration. 
 
 General Scientific Sesults. — The results of scientific im- 
 portance to be derived from an examination of the immense 
 unknown area round the Xorth Pole are as numerous as the 
 region to be explored is extensive. It may be shown that no 
 such extent of unknown ai'ea, in any part of the world, ever 
 failed to yield i-esults of practical as well as of purely 
 scientific value ; and it may safely be urged that, as it is 
 mathematically certain that the area exists, it is impossible 
 that its examination can fail to add largely to the sum of 
 human knowledge. Fm-ther, it is necessary to bear in mind 
 that the jiolar area is, in many most important respects, of an 
 altogether special character, affording exclusive opportunities 
 for observing the condition of the earth's surface, and the 
 physical phenomena there to be seen, mider certain extreme 
 and singular circumstances, which are due to the relation of 
 this area to the position of the axis of revolution of the 
 terrestrial spheroid, and which have to be considered not only 
 with reference to the present time, but to the eai'th's past 
 history. It may be, therefore, received as certain that dis- 
 coveries will be made in all branches of science, the exact 
 
 nature of which cannot be anticipated. But there are also
 
 Arctic Exploration. 287 
 
 numerons objects, that have been stated and enumerated by 
 the presidents and officers of the several scientific societies, 
 the attainment of which make it desirable to despatch an 
 Arctic expedition of discovery. These are as follows : — 
 
 Geography. — A geographical problem of great importance 
 and interest will be solved by completing the cii'cuit of Green- 
 land, ascertainuig tlie extent and nature of its nortliern coast, 
 ex]il()ring the land to the westward, and discovering the con- 
 ditions of land and sea in that portion of the unknown area. 
 
 Hydrography. — An Arctic expedition is a necessary com- 
 plement to the expedition now investigating the ocean bottom 
 in the middle and southern latitudes of the globe. The 
 hydrography of the unknown seas has a most important 
 bearing on the general question of oceanic currents, a question 
 which is of practical consequence to navigation. Our know- 
 ledge of the general system of cm-rents will be incomplete 
 without an investigation of the currents, deep-sea tempera- 
 tm*es, and soundings in the unknown area. Observations, at 
 great depths, with the improved instruments now in use, 
 would be of much value in comiection with the like obser- 
 vations which are being carried on by the expedition now 
 exploring the tropical seas. 
 
 Geodesy. — A series of pendulum observations at the highest 
 latitude possible, following upon the series just comjileted in 
 India, and made with the same instruments after verification 
 at Kew, will be of essential service to the science of Geodesy. 
 Neither tlie data for forming a mathematical theory of tlie 
 physical constitution of the earth, nor the means of testing 
 such a theory, are complete without experimental determina- 
 tions of the intensity as well as the du'ection of tlie force of 
 gravity, and such observations would be especially valuable 
 at the North Pole. 
 
 Meteorology. — Observations of the temperature of the sea 
 at various depths ; of temperatm*e and pressure of the atmo- 
 sphere ; and of jjrevailing winds, with reference to currents,
 
 288 Scientific Results of 
 
 ill very liigh latitudes, will form valuii])le contributions to 
 meteorological science. The present state of meteorology 
 requii'cs a more thorough investigation of the motions of the 
 earth's atmosphere than has yet been undertaken ; and for 
 this important olyect the less frequented parts of the earth's 
 surface should be studied as well as tlie most frequented. 
 
 The climate of Europe in no small degree depends on the 
 atmospheric conditions of the polar area, in Avhich the deve- 
 lopment of extremely low temperatures necessarily leads to 
 coiTesponding extreme changes of pressure and other atmo- 
 spheric disturbances, the effects of which are felt far into the 
 temperate zone. For the satisfactory appreciation of these 
 phenomena, a precise knowledge of the distribution of land 
 and water within the polar area is quite necessary, and any 
 addition to our geographical knowledge of the Arctic region, 
 accompanied by suitable observations of its meteorology, cannot 
 fail to afford improved means of understanding the meteoro- 
 logy of our own country and of the earth generally. 
 
 Magnetism and Physics. — The extension of research into 
 the phenomena of magnetism and atmospheric electricity, in 
 the vicinity of the poles, will necessarily be of much scientific 
 importance ; and generally, so far as the conditions of the 
 climate and the means of an exploring expedition will permit, 
 investigations in all branches of physics in the proximity of 
 the pole, where so many of the forces of nature operate in an 
 extreme degree- — -either of excess or defect — will surely be 
 followed by the acquisition of knowledge which can only be 
 obtained in those excejitional localities. 
 
 The study of the aurora, which is among the most striking 
 phenomena visible on our planet, is almost impossible' in low 
 latitudes ; while the advance of spectrum analysis has given 
 the means of determining the chemical elements involved, so 
 that all that seems required here is the means of applying 
 this descrijition of observation ; and this can only be got near 
 the pole.
 
 A7xtlc Exploration. 289 
 
 The separation of the terrestrial lines from the truly solar 
 ones in the solar spectrum, as seen from the earth's surface, is 
 another important desideratum, incpiiry into which can only 
 be well pursued in high latitudes, where the path of the sun 
 at low altitudes above the horizon gives opportunities for the 
 necessary observations not to be secured elsewhere. 
 
 Geology. — A more complete investigation of the geology of 
 the Arctic regions is extremely desirable, both for its scientific 
 importance and the value of its practical I'esults. The exist- 
 ence of Carboniferous, Jurassic, and Miocene rocks is knovrn, 
 but much is needed to be done to obtain complete collections 
 of their organic remains. The existence of a true palaeozoic 
 coal formation has been determined, but we require to know 
 its extent and composition. 
 
 One of the most interesting facts of late years acquired to 
 geological science has been that of a luxuriant and highly 
 organized vegetation, of the Miocene age, on the east coast 
 of Greenland ; a fact alluded to further on under the head of 
 Botany. It is of great importance that some determinations 
 based on fragments of leaves should be confirmed by the 
 acquisition of more perfect foliage, as well as of seeds and 
 fruits ; such materials would be of great value in illustrating 
 a flora which is in itself of much interest, but this interest is 
 vastly increased when one realizes the important inquiries 
 on which such knowledge would tlu-ow light. These inquiries 
 are : — 
 
 1. The geographical distri])ution of the Miocene flora, as 
 
 indicated by the agreements and differences between 
 the Miocene plants of Arctic regions and of Central 
 and Southern Europe. 
 
 2. The relation of the Miocene flora to previous and sub- 
 
 sequent vegetations, and its bearings on the present 
 geogi-aphical distribution of plants on the glolje. 
 
 3. The evidence derived from tliese jjlants as to the physical 
 
 conditions of the globe in past geological ej)ochs. 
 U
 
 290 Scientific Results of 
 
 It is cei'tain that additional localities for fossil plants will 
 be discovered, and of necessity additional species be brought 
 to light, for, in the past, such remains have been found as far 
 as explorers have penetrated. 
 
 From the important part extreme cold has of late years 
 been found to have played In the last geological, or glacial, 
 jieriod, it would be of much value to have exact observations 
 of the effects pi'oduced on the rocks by the intense cold of 
 the northern regions ; to ascertain the extent, height, and 
 range of the glaciers; and to note their effects on the surface 
 of the country and on the different classes of rocks. Again; 
 it would be mteresting to determine the extent of the river 
 floods, and the depths of the chamiels they have excavated in 
 the Arctic regions. 
 
 Another desirable object of the proposed Ai'ctic expedition 
 would be the investigation of the mollusca, not only of marine, 
 but also of land and fi-esh-water kinds. In a geological, as 
 well as a zoological pomt of view, such an investigation 
 would be especially valuable. The palseontological basis of 
 the glacial epoch consists mainly in the identity of certain 
 species which inhabit the Polar Seas, and are fossil in Great 
 Britain and elsewhere. But such species may owe theii' pre- 
 .sent habitat and position to other than climatal causes, viz. 
 to the action of marine currents. It is quite a mistake to 
 assume that Arctic species are few in number ; we know 
 very little about them, because the exploration of the cii'cum- 
 polar seas by means of the di-edge is so difficult. But tlie 
 researches of the Scandinavian zoologists show that the Arctic 
 marine invertebrate favma is extremely varied and numerous. 
 All fossils should be diligently collected, and their positions 
 accurately noted. The conditions and climate of the Arctic 
 regions at the later geological periods may be thus ascertained, 
 and a new chapter opened in the history of our globe. 
 
 The mineralogy of the Greenland continent is also im- 
 portant, and the discovery of new veins of cryolite and other
 
 Arctic Exploration. 291 
 
 valuable minerals is not improbable. Masses of meteoric 
 ii'on have been recently discovered by the Swedish expedition, 
 extending for a distance of not less than 200 miles ; these 
 require further study, and to have theii* position determined. 
 Botany. — The vegetation of the Arctic regions, in the 
 opinion of Dr. Hooker, throws great light upon the geogra- 
 ])hical distriljution of plants on the surface of the globe. On 
 the return of Sii' Edward Belcher's expedition from those 
 regions, a series of rocks collected in the neighbourhood of 
 Disco by his former fellow-voyager, Dr. Lyall, were placed in 
 Dr. Hooker's hands, containing an accumulation of fossil 
 leaA^es of plants totally different from any now growing in 
 that latitude. These fossils he forwarded to Professor O. 
 Heer, of Zurich, for investigation, who has brought forward 
 the most convincing proofs that that latitude was once inha- 
 bited by extensive forests, presenting fifty or sixty different 
 species of arborescent trees, most of them with deciduous 
 leaves, some 3 in. or 4 in. in diameter — the elm, pine, oak, 
 maple, plane, &c. ; and Avhat was more remarkable still, evi- 
 dence of apparently evergi-een trees, showing that these 
 regions must have liad perennial light. It seems ex- 
 tremely probable that the vegetation which belonged to 
 the jMiocene period extended over a large portion of the 
 northern Arctic regions. It would be of great interest to 
 ascertain whether such vegetation extends towards the Pole, 
 and there is nothing that would give greater assistance in 
 solving this jiroblem than the proposed expedition along 
 Smith Sound. Turning to the existing flora of Greenland, 
 Dr. Hooker has pointed out that, though one of the most 
 ])overty-stricken on the globe, it is possessed of unusual 
 interest. It consists of some 300 kinds of flowering plants 
 (besides a very large number of mosses, algae, lichens, &c.), 
 and presents the following peculiarities: — 1. The flowering 
 plants are almost without exception natives of the Scandi- 
 navian peninsula. 2. I'liere is in the Greenland flora scarcely
 
 292 Scientific Results of 
 
 anj admixture of American types, which nevertheless are 
 found on tlie opposite coast of Labrador and the Parry Islands. 
 3. A considerable proportion of the common Greenland plants 
 are nowhere found in Labrador and the Parry Islands, nor, 
 indeed, elsewhere in the New World. 4. The parts of Green- 
 land south of the Arctic circle, thouirh Avarmer than those 
 north of it, and presenting a coast 400 miles in length, con- 
 tain scarcely any ]ilants not found to the north of that circle. 
 5. A considerable number of Scandinavian plants which are 
 not natives of Greenland are nevertheless natives of Labrador 
 and the Parry Islands. G. Certain Greenland and Scandi- 
 navian plants, Avhich are nowhere found in the polar plains, 
 Labrador, or Canada, re-appear at considerable elevations on 
 the White, and the Alleghany, and other mountains of the 
 United States. No other flora known to naturalists presents 
 such a remarkable combination of peculiar features as this, 
 and the only solution hitherto offered is not yet fliUy accepted. 
 It is that the Scandinavian flora (which Dr. Hooker has shown 
 evidence of being one of the oldest on the globe) did, during 
 the warm period preceding the glacial — a jieriod warmer than 
 the present — extend in force over the Polar regions, including 
 Greenland, the polar American islands, and probably much 
 now submerged land in places connecting or lying between 
 Greenland and Scandinavia, at which time Greenland no doubt 
 presented a much richer Scandinavian flora than it now does. 
 On the accession of the glacial period, this flora would be 
 driven slowly southward, down to the extremity of the Green- 
 land peninsula in its longitude, and down to the latitude of 
 the Alleghanies and White Mountains in their longitudes. 
 The effect in Greenland would be to leave there only the 
 more Arctic forms of vegetation, unchanged in habits or 
 features, the rest being, as it were, driven into the sea. But 
 the effect on the American continent would be to bring the 
 Scandinavian flora into competition with an American flora 
 that pre- occupied the lands into which it was driven. On the
 
 Arctic E.vploration. 293 
 
 decline of the glacial epocli, Greenland, being a peninsula, 
 could be repeopled with plants only by the northward migra- 
 tion of the purely Scandinavian species that had been pre- 
 viously driven into its southern extremity ; and the result 
 would be a uniform Scandinavian flora throughout its length, 
 and this an Arctic one, from north to south. But in America 
 a very different state of things would supervene; the Scan- 
 dinavian plants would not only migrate north, but ascend the 
 Alleghanies, White Mountains, &c. ; and the result would be 
 that, on the one hand, many Scandinavian plants which had 
 been driven out of Greenland, but were preserved in the 
 United States, would reappear on the Parry Islands and 
 Labrador, accompanied with sundry American mountain 
 types ; and, on the otlier, that a few Greenland-Scandinavian 
 types which had been lost in the sti'uggle with the American 
 types during their northward migration, and which hence 
 do not reajipear in Labrador and the Parry Islands, might 
 well be preserved in the Alleghanies and White Mountains. 
 And, lastly, that a number of Scandinavian plants which had 
 dianged their form or habit during the migration in America 
 in conflict with the American types, would appear in tlie 
 Parry Islands as American varieties or representative species 
 of Scandinavian plants. 
 
 Whether or no this be a true hypothesis, it embraces all 
 the facts ; and botanists look anxiously to further explora- 
 tions in the northern parts of Greenland for more light on the 
 subject, and especially for evidence of rising or sinking of the 
 land in Smith Sound and tlie countries north and east of it, 
 and for evidences of ancient connection between Greenland 
 and Scandinavia ; for observations on the temperature, direc- 
 tion, and depth of transporting currents in .these seas, and on 
 the habits of its ruminant migrating animals, that may have 
 influenced the distribution of the vegetation by transporting 
 the seeds. Such facts as those of the existence of ancient 
 forests in what are now Arctic regions, and of the migration
 
 294 Scientific Besults of 
 
 of existing florae over lands now bound fast in perpetual ice, 
 appear to some naturalists to call for vaster changes tlian can 
 be brought about by a redisposition of the geographical limits 
 of land and sea, and to aiford evidence of changes in the 
 direction of the earth's axis to the plane of its orbit, and 
 perhaps of variations m the ellipticity of the orbit itself. 
 
 It has thus been shown that nuich interest attaches to the 
 Greenland flora, which is far fi-om being exhausted. And 
 besides these general questions, there are others respecting 
 specific subjects, of Avhich ovir existing knoAvledge is very 
 imperfect. A great interest attaches to the minute forms of 
 vegetable life Avhicli swarm in polar areas, affording food to 
 the cetace£e and other marine animals, and which colour the 
 surface of the ocean and its bottom likewise. Many of these 
 forms are common to the Arctic and Antarctic seas, and have 
 actually been far better studied in the latter than in the 
 former sea. Of land plants the lichens and mosses require 
 much further collection and study, and the Arctic marine 
 flora is most imperfectly known. Ample collections of 
 flowering plants should be made, with a view of testing the 
 variability of species and their distribution ; and observations 
 on the means of transport of land plants by winds, currents, 
 ice, and migrating animals, are very much wanted. 
 
 Zoology. — With regard to the specific resvilts in zoology 
 which may be expected from the proposed expedition, they 
 are numerous and important. It is now known that tlie 
 Arctic Ocean teems with life, and that of the more minute 
 organized beings the multitude of kinds is prodigious ; these 
 play a most important part, not only in the economy of 
 organic nature, but in the formation of sedimentarv deposits, 
 which in future geological periods wiU become incorporated 
 with these rock-formations, whose structure has only lately 
 been explained by the joint labours of zoologists and geolo- 
 gists. 
 
 The kinds of these aninuils, the relations they bear to one
 
 Arctic Exploration. 295 
 
 another, and to the larger animals (snch as whales, seals, &c. 
 tOAvards whose food they so largely contribute), the conditions 
 under which they live, the depths they inhabit, their changes 
 of form, &c., at different seasons of the year and at different 
 stages of theii" lives ; and, lastly, their distribution according 
 to geographical areas, warm and cold currents, &c., are all 
 subjects of which very little is known. 
 
 With regard to the fish, mollusca, echinodermata, corals, 
 sponges, &c., of the Arctic zones, those of Greenland alone 
 have been explored with anything approaching to satisfactory 
 results. A knowledge of their habits and habitats is much 
 desiderated, as are good specimens for our museums. More 
 impoi-tant still would be anatomical and physiological investi- 
 gations, and observations on those animals under their natural 
 conditions. 
 
 With regard to the migrations of birds, Professor Newton, 
 of Cambridge, has drawn attention to some interesting points 
 connected with the examination of the unknown area. 
 
 The shores of the British Islands, and of many other 
 countries in the northern hemisphere, are annually, for a 
 longer or shorter period, frequented by a countless multitude 
 of birds, which, there is every reason to believe, resort in 
 summer to very high northern latitiules, for purposes the most 
 important; and, since they continue the practice year after 
 year, they must find the migration conducive to their advan- 
 tage. There must be some water which is not always frozen ; 
 secondly, there must be some land on which they may set 
 their feet ; and thirdly, there must be plenty of food, sup])lied 
 either by the water or by the land, or by both, for their 
 nourishment and that of their progeny.^ 
 
 ' Professor Newton has furnished a short account of the move- 
 ments of one species of birds — the knot — Tringa canidus of orni- 
 thologists. The knot is something halfway between a snipe and a 
 plo\ er. Examples of it are commonly to be seen in the cage at the
 
 29G Scientijic Results of 
 
 Ethnology. — The knowledge already acquii-ed of the Arctic 
 regions leads to the conclusion that the discorety of the 
 unknown portion of the Greenland coast will yield A'ery im- 
 portant results in the science of autlu'opology. 
 
 southern end of the fish house in the Zoological Gardens, and may 
 he seen there at the present time. Like many other kinds of bh'ds 
 belonging to the same group, the colour of its plumage varies most 
 wonderfully according to the season of the year. In summer it is of 
 a bright brick-red ; in winter it is of a sober ashy -grey. Kept in 
 confinement, it seldom assumes its most brilliant tints, but some 
 approach to them is generally made. Now the knot comes to this 
 country in vast flocks in spring, and, after remaining on our coasts 
 for about a fortnight, can be traced proceeding gi-adually northwards 
 till it takes its departm'e. People who ha^e been in Iceland and 
 Greenland have duly noted its appearance in those countries ; but in 
 neither of them is it known to tarry longer than with us— the 
 summer it would there have to endure is not to its liking ; and as we 
 know that it takes no other direction, it must move fm-ther north. 
 We then lose sight of it for some weeks. The older naturalists used 
 to imagine it had been found breeding in all manner of countries, 
 but the naturalists of the present day agree in believing that "we 
 know nothing of its nidification. Towards the end of summer it 
 comes back to us in still larger flocks than before, and both old birds 
 and young haunt our coasts till November ; if the season be a very 
 open one, some rnay stay later ; but our winter, as a rule, is too 
 much for it, and away it goes southwards, and very far southwards 
 too, till the following spring. AVhat has been said of the knot in the 
 United Kingdom is equally true of it on the eastern shores of the 
 United States. There it appears in the same abundance and at the 
 same seasons as with us, and its movements seem to be regulated by 
 the same causes. 
 
 Hence we may fairly infer that the lands visited by the knot in 
 the middle of summer are less sterile than Iceland or Greenland, or 
 it would hardl}' pass over those countries, which are known to be 
 the breeding-places of swarms of water-birds, to resort to regions 
 worse off as regards suppl}' of food. But the supply of food must 
 depend chiefly on the climate. The inference necessarily is that, 
 beyond the northern tracts already explored, there is a region which 
 enjoys in summer a climate more genial than tliey possess. It would
 
 Air tic Exploration. 297 
 
 Light may not improbably be thrown upon the mysterious 
 wanderings of those northern tribes, traces of" wliicli are found 
 in every bay and on every cape in the cheerless Pai-ry group, as 
 well as up to the further point that has been reached beyond 
 Smith Sound ; and these Avanderings may be found to be the 
 most distant waves of storms raised in far-off centres, and 
 among other races. Many circumstances connected with the 
 still unknown northern tribes may tend to elucidate such in- 
 quiries. 
 
 There are other investigations which would undoubtedly 
 yield valuable materials for the student of man. Such would 
 be carefully prepared notes on the skulls, the features, the 
 stature, the dimensions of limbs, the intellectual and moral 
 state of individuals belonging to a hitherto isolated and un- 
 known tribe ; also on their religious ideas, on their super- 
 stitions, laws, language, songs, and traditions ; on their 
 weapons and methods of hunting ; and on their skill in de- 
 lineating the topography of the region within the range of 
 their Avanderings. 
 
 The condition of an isolated tribe, deprived of the use of 
 wood or metals, and dependent entu-ely upon bone and stons 
 for the construction of all implements and utensils, is also a 
 subject of study with reference to the condition of mankind 
 in the stone age of the world ; and a careful comparison of 
 the former, as reported by explorers, with the latter, as 
 deduced from the contents of tumuli and caves, will probably 
 be of great importance in the advancement of the science 
 of man. 
 
 Having thus epitomized the various scientific subjects which 
 
 be easy to summon more instances from the same j^roup of birds, 
 tending to show that beyond a zone where a rigorous summer reigns 
 there may be a region endowed with a c•omparati^•ely fa\ourabIe 
 climate. If so, surely the conditions which produce such a climate 
 are worth investigating.
 
 298 Arguments for 
 
 await invcstiixation witliin the Polar area, it oiily remains to 
 explain, ft-om the knowledge and experience at-quired up to 
 the present time, why snch researches can best be success- 
 fully accomplished by a naval expedition despatched under 
 Government auspices, and secured as far as possible from 
 failure or disaster by careful organization and good discipline. 
 It is now exactly a century since — in the year 1773 — the 
 British Government, moved by the Royal Society,^ despatched 
 
 ' The I\oyal Societ\' took an active part in the fiu*thorance of 
 Arctic exploration up to the year 1845, and it is to be hoped that 
 that eminent body will still persevere in a policy which has almost 
 become traditional, and which has invariably been successful ; for it 
 cannot be said that any Arctic expedition despatched under their 
 auspices ever returned emptj'-handed, or without an extension of our 
 knowledge of the polar seas, except that of 1845, when all the 
 valuable results of three years' labour of Sir John Franklin's asso- 
 ciates perished with that expedition. 
 
 In consequence of the representations contained in papers sub- 
 mitted by the Hon. Daines Barrington in 1773, the Royal Society 
 resolved to apply to Lord Sandwich, then First Lord of the Ad- 
 miralty, to obtain his Majesty's sanction for an expedition to be 
 fitted out to explore the North Polar area. In a letter, dated 
 January 19, 1773, the subject was recommended to Lord Sandwichj 
 and it was urged that such disco\ ery would be of service to the 
 promotion of natural knowledge. 
 
 The wishes of the council of the Royal Society were immediately 
 complied with, and it was ordered that an expedition should be 
 undertaken, " with ever}' encouragement that could countenance 
 such an enterprise, and every assistance that could contribute to its 
 success." The command was given to Captain Phipps, afterwards 
 Lord ^lulgrave. The instructions were drawn up b}' Mr. N. Mas- 
 kelyne, the Rev. H. Horsley, Mr. Cavendish, and Dr. Maty. 
 
 The comparative fiiilure of Captain Phipps did not damp the 
 ardour of the Royal Society. Early in 1774, the council minutes 
 show that another expedition was frequently the subject of debate ; 
 and in February, 1774, a memorial was presented by the Royal 
 Society to the Admiralt}'. This led to Captain Cook's attempt on 
 the Pacific side ; the expedition sailing in June, 1776. 
 
 In 1817 the council of the Royal Society resumed the considera-
 
 an Arctic Expedition. 299 
 
 tlie first polar expedition of modern times, under Captain 
 Phipj)s, suljsecpiently Lord jNEuliirave, and in wliioh expedition 
 Lord Nelson served as a midsliii)man. But this, like all other 
 
 tion of the best means of prosecuting Arctic discovery, and a letter 
 was ad(h'essed by Sir Joseph Banks to Lord Melville, dated Novem- 
 ber 20, 1817. A favourable reply was received on the 10th of 
 December, in which it was announced that his Majesty's Govern- 
 ment had deemed it their duty, in conformity with the suggestion of 
 the Royal Society, to give orders for tlie fitting out of four suitable 
 vessels, with a view to the important objects of Arctic disco\ ery ; 
 two to proceed up Davis' Strait, and the other two along the east 
 coast of Greenland to the northward. In a scientific point of view 
 tliese expeditions were fruitful of results, including Sabine's mag- 
 netic observations. 
 
 On the return of Ross, another expedition was despatched in May, 
 1819, commanded by PaiTy ; when Sabine again made valuable 
 magnetic and pendulum observations. 
 
 In 1826 the council of the Royal Society again turned its atten- 
 tion to Arctic discovery, and Captain Parry proposed a plan to 
 attempt to reach the North Pole by means of travelling with sledge- 
 boats over the ice. Sir Humphry Davy, the President, wrote to 
 Lord Melville, expressing the conviction of the council that Parry's 
 expethtion could not fail to afford several valuable scientific results, 
 and to settle many important matters of sciontitic inquiry. Lord 
 Melville replied " that, the council having no doubt balanced all the 
 probable advantages, and having declared in favour of the expedi- 
 tion, I do not feel myself at liberty to withhold my assent to Captain 
 Parry's earnest request." In a letter to the council. Captain Parry 
 sa3's that " the liberal and enlightened views of the council mainly 
 led to the adoption of the enterprise by the Admiralty." 
 
 In 1839 tlie despatch of the Antarctic expeditiim connnanded by 
 Sir James Itoss, though originally suggested by a committee ap- 
 pointed by the British Association, was urgently advocated by the 
 president and council of the Royal Society, who threw themselves 
 unreservedly and with their whole weight into the scale, with im- 
 mediate and decisive effect. The council of the Royal Society then 
 drew up a report containing a detailed account of every object of 
 inquiry which should receive attention frum the explorers. 
 
 In 1845 the council of the Royal Societ}- again urged the im-
 
 300 Arguments for 
 
 expeditions sent via Spitzbergen, failed in its purpose of 
 penetrating Avithin the 80th parallel ; and although Mackenzie 
 and Hearn, on the American continent, just traced the two 
 rivers which bear their names into the Arctic Sea, nothing in 
 the last centm-y was added to geographical knowledge within 
 the Arctic zone to the rough outline of Baffin's Bay, as dis- 
 covered by that great navigator in 1616 ; and, apart fi'om that 
 mere outline of Baffin's Bay and Spitzbergen, the entire area 
 of the Arctic zone was a blank, so far as all human knowledge 
 was concerned. 
 
 In the year 1818 the Royal Society, prompted by Sir 
 Joseph Banks and Sir John Barrow, then Secretary to the 
 Admiralty, took up actively the subject of Arctic exploration, 
 and between that period and 1833, the successive expeditions 
 of Franklin, Parry, Back, John and James Ross, Sabine, 
 Buchan, Beechey, and Lyons added much to our geographical 
 knowledge, and threw new light on the meteorology, botany, 
 hydrography, terrestrial magnetism, zoology, and ethnology of 
 a previously unknown portion of the earth's surface. 
 
 After the discovery of the exact position of the magnetic 
 pole by Sir James Ross in 1831-33, Arctic exploration may be 
 said to have paused ; but it is worthy of remark that, during 
 the fifteen years it had thus been actively pursued by seamen 
 and travellers with the then imperfect means at command, no 
 loss of life had occurred, although there had been occasionally 
 more than two hundred men at a time employed upon these 
 expeditions. 
 
 In 1845 the subject of Arctic research in various branches 
 of natural science was again taken up by the Royal Society, 
 and that year a fresh Arctic expedition was despatched by our 
 
 portance of Arctic reseai'ch, and their representations led to the 
 despatch of the Franklin expedition, since which time no Govern- 
 ment scientific expedition has been fitted out for the exploration of 
 the unknown area round the North Vale.
 
 an Arctic Expedition. 301 
 
 government, in wliich there were various j^ersons eminent in 
 science, under the command of Sir Jolui Franklin. 
 
 It consisted of two saihng shijjs, with auxiliary steam-power 
 of a very imperfect nature, and both in that resjject, as well 
 as in their general equipment, stores, and provisioning, they 
 fell far sliort of what an Arctic expedition of the present day 
 ^VDuld have at command ; but subsequent events reveal to us 
 that this expedition succeeded in making one of the most 
 remarkable Arctic voyages on record, and that they perished, 
 after abandoning their ships, at a position near the entrance 
 of the Great Fish River, where, had pro2)er foresight been 
 exercised, they could easily have been rescued. Subsequent 
 experience has shown that the fatal omission which led to this 
 catastrophe was the want of jiroper depots of jjrovisions being 
 arranged so as to cover the escape of the crews, in the event 
 of disaster to the ships — a measure of precaution which, since 
 that disaster, has always been carefully jirovided for in all 
 subsecpient expeditions with signal success. This expedition 
 (ji Su' John Franklin in 1845 was the last scientijic expedition 
 sent by Great Britain into the Arctic regions. In 1848 the 
 search for Franklin's expedition was pressed on the Govern- 
 ment by the public, and from that date up to 1861 — a period 
 of thirteen years — was steadily persevered in, no less than 
 fourteen public and private expeditions having gone and 
 returned during that ])eriod. So far as the people in those 
 expeditions were concerned, they all returned in safety, and 
 the proportion of deaths from climate and disease was con- 
 siderably less than the average death-rate of our naval sea- 
 men on any other serA'ice ; and this in spite of the extra- 
 ordinarily severe exjiosure and labour to which men and 
 officers were subjected, by the novel introduction of sledge- 
 travelling whilst the ex])editions were frozcn-in in winter 
 quarters. Dr. Donnct, Deputy Inspector-General of fleets 
 and hospitals, shows that at one period, out of 1,878 pei'sons 
 who wintered repeatedly in these expeditions, the death-rate
 
 302 Arguments for 
 
 was only TT per cent., and states that the risk from climate 
 and disease in a voyage to tlie Arctic seas " is not greater 
 than that which a ship like the ' Challenger' Avill incur in her 
 voyage of discovery." These fourteen searching expeditions 
 were equipped sinqily for the purpose of rescuing Franklin, 
 and in no wise professed to be of an exploratory or scientific 
 character; and it was only incidentally, and as a pure matter 
 of individual zeal, that any one turned his attention to 
 scientific observation, although, as a matter of fact, the various 
 observations made by officers during their explorations con- 
 tributed considerably not only to geographical, but to other 
 branches of natural knowledge. 
 
 The general result pointed to the two following con- 
 clusions : that with the introduction of steam-power in Arctic 
 ships, and the remarkable improvements in victualling them, 
 navigation in the polar seas had been rendered comparatively 
 safe, and those maladies warded off from which seamen had 
 suffered in ancient times. Further, that with proper organi- 
 zation and good discipline, double the work could be accom- 
 ])lished ; whilst the men employed sought Arctic service as 
 the most popular emjiloyment in the navy. The circumstance 
 that for some years past tlie ordinary sailing M'haler to Baffin's 
 Bay has been entirely superseded by the fortified steam-ship, 
 and that since this transition no fatal accident has occurred, 
 but that these vessels annually reach a high northern latitude 
 in pursuit of their calling and return Avith ease and safety, is 
 one the significance of which cannot be over-stated. 
 
 On the solution of the fate of Franklin's expedition in 1861, 
 Great Britain again withdrew from the field of Arctic re- 
 search ; but it was not so with other European nations. They, 
 fired by the accounts of these different Arctic explorers, and 
 of the honours reaped by British seamen and travellers, sought 
 immediately to enter a field which had so redounded to our 
 national honour ; and Sweden, Germany, Austria, Russia, and 
 notably America, year after year, made efforts to extend the
 
 an Arctic Expedition. 303 
 
 area of human knowledge towards the North Pole, which, 
 creditable and honourable as they M'ere to tliose concerned, 
 were undertaken with totally inadequate means and resources. 
 Under Dr. Kane and Dr. Hayes and Captain Hall, the 
 Americans haA'C attempted, with private expeditions, to emu- 
 late the achievements of the public ones of this country-. The 
 sufferings, the hardships, insubordination, and small results, 
 in comparison with the expenditure and expectations, of these 
 American private expeditions, fully confirm the opmions of 
 all British Arctic authorities as to the necessity for the officers 
 and seamen in such expeditions being always under naval 
 control and discipline ; and strengthen us in saying that no 
 amount of private enterprise, enthusiasm, or funds will justify 
 the risk to lives or the success of an expedition such as the 
 Eoyal Geographical Society contemplates, except under Go- 
 vernment auspices and Government control. That conceded, 
 the safety of an expedition is comparatively guaranteed, so 
 far as life is concerned, and its success for the objects set 
 forth rendered doubly sure. It is contrary to fact, as has 
 been alleged, that in public Arctic expeditions life has been 
 sacrificed ; and it is easy to show that the greater portion of 
 the suffering and danger to which Arctic explorers have been 
 subjected is owing to the want of organization and discipline 
 incidental to private expeditions, and to the expeditions being 
 entrusted to unprofessional leaders. Moreover, it cannot be 
 too strongly insisted upon that, with modern improvements 
 and appliances, navigation in those seas has been made far 
 more certain than it was in former years. That some risk 
 may be incurred by individuals in prosecuting scientific re- 
 search in an Arctic climate is not denied ; but it may be 
 confidently affirmed that no one who participates voluntarily 
 in such an expedition would hesitate to incur such risks, and 
 equally that life lost in the serious pursuit of knowledge is, to 
 say the least, as worthily sacrificed as in other human occu- 
 pations which involve similar dangers.
 
 304 Arguments for 
 
 Witli these facts before us, we now turn to the subject of 
 a fresh f)oIar expedition, of a purely scientific character, to 
 deal with the points set forth in the first paragraph of this 
 memorandum. 
 
 It will be seen, on reference to a cu-cum-polar chart, that 
 the entire area within the 80th degree of north latitude, except 
 at two points — Parry's furthest in 1827, and the American 
 explorations at Smith Sound — is an entire blank. In addi- 
 tion to this, there is a great area north of Behring's Straits, 
 between long. 150" E. and 130° W., which is likewise un- 
 known. The aggregate of these two areas around our northern 
 pole is not less than 2,400,000 square miles. 
 
 Since 1865 the council of the Koyal Geographical Society 
 have constantly had their attention turned to the desirability 
 of extending their researches into this vast unknown region; 
 and had they been justified in risking private expeditions 
 upon such an enterprise, they might safely have appealed 
 with success to their countrymen for funds and volunteers to 
 undertake them ; but they have, for reasons stated, preferred 
 to urge such an undertaking on the Government, and in the 
 same year a strong representation was made to the Duke 
 of Somerset, then First Lord of the Admiralty, on the sub- 
 ject. At that time there was considerable divergence of 
 opinion amongst English and other Arctic authorities as to 
 the best route by which an expedition should be despatched 
 for successful exploration within the unknown area ai'ound 
 the North Pole, and Swedish and German expeditions were 
 then making the attempt by way of Spitzbergen. His Grace 
 declined to entertain the proposition until the results of those 
 said expeditions wei'e known. 
 
 In consequence of this view, the council of the Royal Geo- 
 graphical Society carefully watched the results of expeditions 
 undertaken by foreign countries, in order to be in a position 
 to recommend one route as undoubtedly the best, before again 
 pressing the subject upoh the attention of the Government.
 
 an Arctic. Expedition. 305 
 
 Eight years have now passed, and during tliat time additional 
 experience has been accumulated by the Germans and Swedes, 
 which has enabled the council to form an opinion that justi- 
 fies the renewal of their representation made in 1865. The 
 distinguished Arctic officers ^ who are members of the Geo- 
 graphical Council, and who have carefully considered the evi- 
 dence accumulated since 1865 in a special committee, are now 
 unanimously of opinion that the route by Smith Sound is the 
 one which shoidd be adopted Avith a view to exploring the 
 greatest extent of coast-line, and of thus securing the most 
 valuable scientific results. They have recommended the 
 Smith Sound route for the following reasons : — 
 
 1. That it gives a certainty of exploring a previously un- 
 known area of considerable extent. 
 
 2. That it yields the best prospect of most valuable dis- 
 coveries in various branches of science. 
 
 3. That, from the continuity of the land of Greenland and 
 the Arctic archipelago southward from the 82nd parallel to 
 open sea in Baffin's Bay and Davis' Strait, it promises rea- 
 sonable security for a safe retreat for the crews of an exploring 
 expedition, should their ships be unable to be extricated from 
 an advanced position, which, with steam-power, is a most 
 remote possibility. 
 
 These opinions have been still further fortified by the 
 recent report of the crew of the " Polaris," which ship, it 
 appears, safely navigated up Smith Sound 250 miles beyond 
 the point reached by Dr. Hayes's schooner in 1861, and traced 
 the land on either hand as far as 82° 16' N. She subsequently 
 returned, and although a portion of her crew were separated 
 fi'om her, and took to an ice-field in 77° N., they di-ifted under 
 the influence of tlie Polar stream down to a point in Labrador 
 
 ' Sir George Back, Admiral Collinson, Admiral Ommanney, 
 Admiral Richards, Sir Leopold McClintock, Admiral Shei-ard 
 Osborn, Mr. Eindlay, Mr. Ck'inents ^lax-kham. 
 
 X
 
 306 A rguments for 
 
 (where tliey were picked up in tlie spring), a distance of 1,400 
 miles. This is the fifth occasion on which the 2)olar current 
 through Smith Sound and Baffin's Bay has drifted vessels into 
 the Atlantic ; proving that the opening called Smith Sound is 
 a channel with a constant current flowing southward from the 
 unkno\vn area. 
 
 The boat's crew fi-om the " Polaris " reported open water 
 at theii' furthest point to the north, in 82° 16' N., a milder 
 climate than has been found in more southern positions, and 
 that terrestrial animal life abounded near their winter quarters, 
 in 81° 38' N., includmg musk oxen — a point the importance 
 of -which cannot be overrated. 
 
 The Admiralty have the means, by referring to past records 
 and living authorities, of laying down clearly and economically 
 all the requirements for such an expedition as is contemplated. 
 It is therefore unnecessary in this memorandum to enter into 
 any lengthened detail on the subject. But we may say that 
 in general terms we only seek that it should consist of two 
 moderate-sized screw -steamers, one to be stationed at some 
 distance within the entrance of Smith Sound, the other to 
 advance, as far as possible, to the northward (preserving 
 communication with the dejjot vessel), fi-om which point 
 sledge parties would start in the early spring, and explore 
 the unknown region in various directions, whilst the scien- 
 tific staff on board the respective ships, being in near proxi- 
 mity to the land, would be able to prosecute researches both 
 on shore and by means of the ice on the sea. The advanced 
 parties would be in such a position as to be able to fall back 
 upon the consort, at her station near the entrance of Smith 
 Sound. Thence, in the improbable event of accidents, the 
 whole expedition could retreat to the Danish settlements in 
 Greenland, as has been before clone. 
 
 In conclusion, we may be allowed to add that the council 
 of the Royal Geographical Society have never appealed to the 
 Government to undertake enterprises which are of a nature
 
 an Arctic Expedition. 
 
 307 
 
 to admit of bohi*:;' oarried out by private enterprise. In almost 
 every part of the unknown regions of the globe their emis- 
 saries have been and are abroad, and at the present time 
 they have on hand two exjiensivc and difficult explorations 
 in the interior of Africa. But, for Arctic exploration, the 
 conditions under which the investigations must be made, 
 for reasons already explained, are such that they can best 
 be conducted through the instrumentality of a Government 
 expedition. 
 
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