ROBERT ERNEST COWAN TORICAL^ SERIES No. \ 10 Cent \pmm\'^^i^^^^ AX>. Hall STUEtr & SMITH. PUBLISHERS. NEW /ORK mk TJlJ^^J^Ji^XX. HAWAII BY j^. ID. h:^ll NEW YORK: STREET & SMITH, Publishers, 8 1 Fulton Street. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year i8q8, By Street & Smith, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. COISTTEISTTS. CHAPTER. PAGE. I.— Early History 7 II.— Death of Captain Cook— Missionaries— Lepers 19 III. - Climate and Natural Features 30 IV,— Manners and Customs — Inhabitants and Schools 40 v.- Industries and Commerce 55 VI.— Honolulu 75 VII.— Some Other Towns 91 VIII. — Queen Liliuokalani and the Kevolution 101 IX.— The Annexation of Hawaii .....* 127 X. — Conclusion 152 2771.83 HAWAIL CHAPTER I. EARLY HISTORY. Considerable of the attention and interest in the United States has of late been attracted toward the Hawaiian Islands, which are an important group occupying a cen- tral position in the North Pacific Ocean some twenty-one hundred miles west of San Francisco, and directly in the commercial track between the United States and Austra- lia on the one hand, and the Isthmus of Panama and China on the other. These islands will necessarily be- come an important commercial centre and resort of ship- ping in this great ocean. There are eight inhabited islands constituting this group, namely, Hawaii, Maui, Kahoolawe, Lanai, Molo- kai, Oahu, Kauai and Niihau ; these comprise an area of about six thousand seven hundred square miles. The largest island, Hawaii, is nearly two-thirds of the whole area in size, being almost equal to the State of Connec- ticut. In the past Hawaii has been one of the most iso- lated positions in the world, and the one farthest removed from the ancient centres of civilization. But by virtue of their geographical position, the islands belong com- mercially to the United States^ and in political and social 8 EARLY HISTORY. sentiment the ties are even closer, their civilization hav- ing been brought about by American agencies, both Christian and commercial. Hawaii is virtually the half-way house between the continental shores, and is a suitable haven for ships and storage of coal, which in the present day of progress is the important feature of navigation. Although it is said Spaniards first discovered Hawaii, and some were even wrecked upon its shores, mingling by intermarriage their blood with tlie natives, whose de- scendants, the Kekea, show a light skin, Caucasian facial contour and freckled faces ; still Captain Cook's name was the first European to be associated with their discov- ery in 1778. In 1555 Juan Gaetano, a Spaniard, is said to have discovered these islands, when sailing from the coast of New Spain to the Spice Islands. There is a tradition, though very ancient, about the earlier discovery of these islands by a chief w^hose name was Hawaii-loa. This chief occupied a very high posi- tion, and was of purest descent. He was supposed to be formerly a fisherman and navigator in Kahiki-ku, and when sailing towards the East in one of his cruises, he discovered two islands, and named them Hawaii and Maui. He -was so pleased with his discovery that he re- turned to his native land and brought back to Hawaii his wife and children. They are supposed to be the first inhabitants of the islands, and this tradition is handed down as a legend to this day. According to the very early genealogies of the Ha- waiians, Wakea and Papa, his wife, were the progenitors EARLY HISTORY. 9 of the race, or were, at least, the first of their Hne of chiefs. It is said that Wakea had improper relations with a woman by the name of Hina, and she brought forth the island which Wakea named Molokai. Papa, wishing to take revenge upon her husband for this act of unfaith- fulness, cohabited with a man called Lua, and gave birth to the island of Oahu ; and to this day in memory of the early adultery the two islands have preserved the names arising from their birth, Molokai. Huia and Oahu-Lua. A number of Hawaiian chiefs follow Wakea and Papa in consecutive generations, concerning whom tradition gives but little of note, until about the end of the thir- teenth century, when the warlike Hawaiian chief Kalau- nuiohua undertook to conquer the whole group of is- lands, each of which was governed by its respective ruler or chief. In the able account given by ^Ir. W. D. Alexander in his '* Brief History of the Hawaiian People," he states : ■ Kalaunuiohua collected a fleet and an army and in- vaded Maui, where he defeated and captured the leading chief of that island. Elated by this success he proceeded first to Molokai, where he was again victorious, and then to Oahu. where he defeated and captured the. chief of Ewa Waianae. With the three captive chiefs in his train he set sail for Kauai, and landed near Koloa, where he was met by Kukrua at the head of the warriors of Kauai and totally defeated, his fleet being taken and his army destroyed. In fact, the island of Kauai appears to have ever afterward maintained its independence until the present century. lo EARLY HISTORY. "About a century later three his"!! chiefs of Hawaii, to- gether with Lunkoa, a Maui chief, invaded Oahu, land- ing at the Ewa Lagoon. Marching inland they were de- feated by Mailekukahi at the Kipapa ravine, which is said to have received that name from its having been paved with the corpses of the slain." This period extended from about 1450 A. D. to the time of Kamehamcha I. Judge Fornander describes this time by saying : " It was an era of strife, dynastic ambitions, internal and ex- ternal wars on each island, with all their deteriorating consequences of anarchy, depopulation, social and intel- lectual degradation, loss of liberty, loss of knowledge, loss of arts." In early times each island had a king, but under Ka- mehamcha I., who was said to be a man of quick per- ceptions, shrewd sense and great force, the islands were formed into one kingdom. When Vancouver visited the islands in 1792, this chief, being desirous of possessing a vessel on the European model, the keel of one was laid down for him. Ten or twelve years later Mr. Turnbull found him with twenty vessels of from twenty-five to fifty tons, which traded amongst the islands, and the king afterwards purchased others from foreigners. He brought a very old ship from California of about one hundred and seventy-five tons, and loaded her full with sandal wood, and then sailed with her to and from Canton till she went to the bottom. He encouraged a warlike spirit in his people, and intro- duced fire arms. Kamehameha also attacked and over- EARLY HISTORY. ii came the chiefs of the other islands one after another, until he became undisputed master of the whole group. He encouraged trade with foreigners, and derived from its profit a large increase of revenue, as well as the means of consolidating his power. During one of Kamehameha's absences from his own big island, a rebellion broke out, but he returned in time to subdue it. Shortly afterwards a plague resembling the cholera attacked the natives. All of the king's lead- ing men died in a few hours, as well as nearly one-half of his soldiers. For the time being this seemed to sober the fierce old man, and he told his soldiers to go into the fields and work. He joined them there himself, toiling hard as a common laborer ; for, besides the dread plague, famine, with her gaunt face, was at the door. A famous traveler who visited Kamehameha at this .Aue tells the following story of him : " Kamehameha threw his arms around an idol, embraced it, and prayed, saying : " These are our gods ; I do not know whether I do right to worship them or not. It is the religion of our country, and I worship them with my people.' " Kamehameha had written to King George HI. August 6, 1810, desiring formally to acknowledge the King of England, and to place the islands under British protec- tion, an offer which was accepted. While in Honolulu, Kamehamehsi had the British flag over his stone warehouses and his residence. In 181 1 the remaining rich island surrendered to him, and Kame- hameha, who was a brave, large-hearted man, despite his butcheries, made his old enemy, the chief, foreman for 12 EARI.Y HISTORY. life. Kamehameha was a remarkable savage, being high born. Chiefs and priests were his kindred and compan- ions, and he was not tardy in taking advantage of his high station. Joaquin ]\Iiller, in speaking of this great warrior, said : " The best that can be said of him v/as that he was progressive. His trade was the cruel trade of war, but even in this he was wonderfully progressive, for beginning with a club and canoe, he closed with can- non and ships." Kamehameha I. died in 1819 at the age of eighty-two years, and was succeeded by his son Liholiho, who adopted on his accession the name of Ka- mehameha II. This son was a mild, well-disposed prince, but who inherited none of his father's energy. One of his first acts was to abolish tabu and idolatry through- out all the islands. Some disturbances were caused thereby, but the insurgents were defeated, and the peace of the islands has been unbroken ever since." Tabu was a set of laws of " Thou shalt not do this, that or the other thing, under penalty," depending on the conscience of the people. The meaning of the word tabu is "sacred, set apart," whether referring to religious or civil matters. In 1824 Kamehameha II. and his queen visited the United States and England, and while staying in Lon- don, they both contracted the measles and died of it in July of that year. Kamehameha III. was only twenty years old when he assumed the throne. Up to the year 1839 the islands were governed by an absolute monarchy and upon feudal principles. In that year Kamehameha III. was induced EARLY HISTORY. 13 to sign a bill of rights, and in 1840 and 1842 to grant constitutions by which he surrendered the absolute rule in favor of a government by the three estates of king, nobles and people, with universal suffrage, a biennial parliament and paid representatives. The constitution of 1842 and the civil penal codes were mainly prepared by Chief Justice William L. Lee, an American. Judge Lee rendered great service to the na- tion in confirming to the common natives a third of the lands of the kingdom, which were formerly owned entirely by the king and chiefs. Kamehameha IV. acceded to the throne in 1854, and after a brief and useful reign died in November, 1863. Kamehameha \'. followed. The new constitution which Kamehameha IIL had adopted had remained in force till this reign, when the present king abrogated it in August, 1864, and promulgated in its place a constitu- tion imposing qualifications on suffrage, and on eligibility to the legislature, and centralizing the government in the hands of the king. A voter must read and write, pay his taxes and have an income of seventy-five dollars a year. The exclusive power was the king, a privy council, of which the four governors of the larger islands were mem- bers, and four responsible ministers. The legislative power was the king, and the parliament, composed of fourteen nobles (of whom six were white), and twenty- eight representatives (seven of whom were white). Both classes discussed and voted together. The judiciary power was a supreme court, composed of a chief jus- 14 EARLY HIvSTO^Y. tice, who was also chancellor, and at least two judges, four district courts and police, and other tribunals. Luanliho was elected in 1873, and on his death Kala- kaua, in 1874. And now, having given the brief history of the Kame- hamehas, we will return to the European who was first supposed to discover the Hawaiian Islands. Captain James Cook, the celebrated navigator, was born on Oct. 28, 1728, at the village of Martin Look- shire, where his father was first an agricultural laborer, and then a farm bailiff. At the age of thirteen years Cap- tain Cook was apprenticed to a haberdasher at Straiths, near \Miitby, but having quarreled with his master, he went as apprentice on board a collier belonging to the port, and was soon afterward appointed mate. From early childhood he had a love for the sea, and as a navi- gator the merits of Captain Cook were of the very high- est order. His commanding personal presence, his sa- gacity, decision and perseverance enabled him to over- come all difficulties, while his liumanity and sympathetic kindness rendered him a favorite with his crews. His valuable researches into the nature and use of anti-scor- Imtic medicines proved of the greatest utility. He was a practical, scientific seaman, and was also a sagacious, self-possessed commander; kind, though strict, to his crew, and marked by indomitable perseverance and ready decision. He made many valuable additions to our geo- graphical knowledge of the coasts of America, and Asia, and also in the regions of Behring's Straits. On the eighth of December, 1777, with his two ships, the " Resolution i;ud the " Discovery," he sailed from the Society Islands to the northwest coast of America. Sailing almost due to the north, on a Sunday morning, the eighteenth of January, 1778, he came upon the island of Oahu. and shortly afterward saw the island Kauai, '^n the next day he discovered the third island, Niihau. As he neared Kauai a boat with some fishermen came alongside, and traded fish and vegetables for bits of iron, but did not dare to venture on board. Captain Cook was surprised when he found their language closely re- sembled that of the natives of the Society Islands. Th-j following day Captain Cook landed, and as soon as he touched the shore the natives fell fiat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble position till he made signs for them to rise. They then brought numerous small pigs, which they presented to him, with plantain trees, using a great deal of ceremony. A priest then made a long prayer, in which others of the assembly at times joined. Captain Cook expressed his acceptance of their proffered friendship by giving them in return such pres- ents as he had brought with him for that purpose. The natives displayed a peaceable disposition, showed great readiness to part with anything they had in ex- change for what was offered them, and expressed a stronger desire for iron than for any other articles offered them, appearing to be well acquainted with the use of the metal. A trade was soon established. The articles which the inhabitants offered to sell were the skins of various animals, such as wolves, foxes, bears, racoons, deer, polecats, and one in particular, the sea- i6 EARIvY HISTORY. Otter. Added to these, besides the skins in their native shapes, were the garments made from them ; also a cer- tain kind of apparel maniifactured from the bark of a tree, and various pieces of workmanship. One of the most extraordinary articles brought to be bartered for were human skulls, and hands from which the flesh was still clinging, and which showed evident signs of their having been on fire. The things which the natives took in exchange were chisels, knives, scraps of iron and* tin, nails, looking glasses and buttons, or any. kind of metal. Glass beads did not seem to strike their fancy. After a short time the natives would deal for nothing but metal, and brass was eagerly sought for, till finally everything that was on the ship was stripped of this arti- cle, candlesticks, pans, dippers and even all the buttons from the clothing, leaving only what belonged to the nec- essary instruments. Captain Cook and his men remained in the islands till Feb. 2, when they started northward on another voy- age. Some of the natives were very bitter toward Cap- tain Cook, feeling he had brought to their islands dis- ease, and that he was not cautious enough. Captain Cook took every precaution that he could, as he knew some of his men had introduced disease into other islands which they had visited. In 1804 a pestilence, called Ahu- lauokun, the character of which is not known, broke out, and the decrease of the population was immense. Cap- tain Cook estimated the population at four hundred EARLY HISTORY. 17 thousand, but historians say this was probably too great by one hundred thousand. As regards cannibahsm, it appears that only the heart and liver of the human victims were eaten as a religious rite, after they had been offered in the temple, and that the same parts of any great warrior who was slain in bat- tle were quickly devoured by the victorious chiefs, who believed they would thereby inherit the valor of the de- parted one. When Kamehameha I. died, the chiefs all assembled to deliberate as to what should be done with his body, as he was such an illustrious man and full of daring and courage. One suggested they should eat the body, but this did not find favor with the others, and he was buried according to the rites and customs of the times. Their mode of disposing of the dead was to embalm the body, which they did by covering it VvMth a glutinous liquid, made from the Ti-root. This process sealed tightly all the pores of the skin, so that the air could not reach them. The body was then placed in a case, or on some shelf which nature had made, in a sitting posture. These places of burial seem to have been private property, or l.>elonging to the people on whose land they were situ- ated. Ofiferings were often carried there by the relatives of the deceased, and prayers said for them. There is a tradition that the first man, Kumuhonu^, was buried on the summit of a high mountain, and that one by one his descendants were all buried around and about him till the place was filled. In the days of idolatry the only dress which the men 18 KARLY HIvSTORY. wore was a very narrow strip of cloth, which they wound round tlie loins and passed between the legs. The women wore short petticoats made of tapa (cloth prepared from the inner bark of the paper mulberry). Now the common class of men wear shirt and trousers, while the better class of natives are attired in the European fashions. The women are clad universally in the holoka, which is a loose white or colored garment reaching from the neck to the feet. Both sexes delight in adorning themselves with neck- laces of colored seeds, a»d with garlands of flowers. Amongst the tribes there was almost an universal cus- tom of circumcising the male child. The priests per- formed this ceremony with religious rites. There is a legend that this custom was fTrst introduced by a Ha- waiian chief who lived in the early part of the eleventh century. In an article published in the *' Nation " some years ago, we quote the following : ** In the royal families, to subserve purposes of state, father and daughter, brother and sister, uncle and niece frequently united as man and wife. The children of such unions were esteemed of the highest rank, and strange to say, no mental or physical deterioration seemed to result from these incestuous re- lations." DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIES. 19 CHAPTER II. DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIES— LEPERS. The name Sandwich Islands was given to this country by Captain Cook, at the time it was first discovered by liim, in honor of his patron, the Earl of Sandwich, who was at that time the First Lord of the British Admiralty. This worthy Earl of Sandwich, John Montague, was extremely fond of playing cards, and disliking to inter- rupt his game for luncheon, he had brought to him slices of bread with ham laid between. Hence the name of sandwich. Now, the name Hawaiian Islands is de- rived from the largest island in the group, and is the name generally used by the inhabitants. Captain Cook, after having explored the Arctic Ocean. Alaska and Behring's Straits, returned to the islands on the twenty-sixth of November, 1778. The natives were very glad to see him again, and trading was once more established, but after ten days the natives grew very tired of their guests, and lost whatever respect they had shown them. Quarrels took place between the natives and those on board the " Resolution," and thefts became very com- mon. Captain Cook finally sailed from there February fourth, and the natives were overjoyed at his departure, but it was not to be of very long duration, for Captain Cook and his ships returned on February eleventh. This time 20 DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIES. the natives exhibited no manifestations of delight, and they plainly showed the friendship which formerly ex- isted was at an end. Things went from bad to worse, and finally the cutter of the " Discovery " was stolen. Cap- tain Cook, in order to insure the return of the stolen boat, planned to bring the king on board the " Resolu- tion " and keep him a prisoner till the cutter was re- turned. But the plan failed, and an affray ensued. The warriors and the natives opened fire and four of Captain Cook's men were killed. The rest swam back to the boats, and Captain Cook was the only one left upon the rocks. He tried to make for the pinnace, which was a small six or eight oared boat carried by an English man- of-war, and held his left hand against the back of his head to guard, if possible, from the stones being hurled at him, and he still carried his musket under his other arm. A native was seen following him, stealthily, but with a little fear, for he stopped once or twice, undetermined whether to proceed. At last he came upon Captain Cook unawares, giving him a blow on the head, and then fled. This stroke stunned Captain Cook at first, and he stag- gered a few paces, then fell on his hands and one knee, and dropped his musket. Before he could rise and regain his feet, another native stabbed him in the back of his neck with an iron dagger. He then fell into the water, which reached only to his knees, and others crowded about him and tried to keep him under ; but he strug- gled strongly and got his head up, and cast a look of despair towards the pinnace, as if he begged for their as- sistance. DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIES. 21 crew were so confused it was not in their power to save Though his own boat was only a few yards away, his him. Again and again the natives submerged Captain Cook, each time in deeper water ; but he was able to get his head up. and being almost spent in the struggle he naturally turned to the rock and tried to support himself by it, when a native struck him a fierce blow with a club and he was killed. They pulled him up out of the water lifeless on the rock, where the natives seemed to take a savage pleasure in using every barbarity to his dead body, snatching the daggers out of each other's hands to have the cruel satis- faction of piercing their victim. Captain Cook's body was disposed of exactly as that of a great chief, only a few high prices knowing where the bones were laid, so they could not be exhumed. No one now even ventures to surmise where they repose. It is claimed that Kamehameha was present at Captain Cook's death, and obtained some of his hair, which he always preserved in great reverence. It was a custom in the olden times among the Hawaiian kings to make the bones of chiefs they had conquered into articles of various kinds, but more especially fish hooks. This they did to show revenge for cruelties, as well as evincing de- light for victories. It was also customary for the friends of any chief who had been killed to hide his body, so that the enemies could not find it. There was a certain chief named Pae, whose sons hid his body, and months were spent in trying to find his burial place, but it was fruitless. There is a beautiful 22 DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIES. waterfall called Hiilawe, in the valley of Waipr, aiid one day while a young priest was gazing at it he observed that a beautiful rainbow seemed ever to hang over these falls. Now the Hawaiians believed this to be a sign which would show them where a chief lived or was buried. As this young priest was watching the rainbow one day, he asked some old priests who came upon him, what chief lived or was buried anywhere near these beautiful falls. Being thus questioned the priests conceived the idea that Pae might be buried there. Accordingly a black pig, a red fish, a white tapa and a white fish were taken at night to the waterfall, and used as offerings. After this cere- mony was over a ghost appeared, wearing a long cloak of feathers, who came from the waterfall, passed in front of them and then retired. Shortly after another ghost appeared wearing a shorter cloak. When this informa- tion was taken to the king he felt sure that the body of Pae must be hidden near these falls. The king ordered a man lowered down the falls, and behind the water, in a cave, was Pae's body, wrapped in red tapa. The cave had been entirely concealed by the flow of water over it. The Hawaiians used to believe that fish hooks made of chief's bones were so attractive that fish could not keep away from them, and the king ordered hooks to be made of Pae's bones. When finished, the king and all his men went fishing, and his luck was so tremendous he could not pull in the great quantities of fish without the help of all his colleagues. This news reached the ears of Pae's sons, and was just what the king desired, for he wished them to see their father's bones were found. DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIES. 23 As the old king- pulled up his line, he cried out, *'E Pae-e-paa-ia, a paa ka Rane e'a," which means, "Oh, Pae. hold fast our fishes." The sons of Pae were very argry, and exclaimed, ''A loaaka punana o ke Rolea ia ol. alalia loaa ia oe na iwi o Pae," meaning, ''Indeed, you will sooner find the nest of the plover than the bones of Pae." In saying this they firmly believed no human being could find their father's bones, but were anxious, and went tc the cave, only to find the body gone. It is said that this hook, made of Pae's bones, was used by the high chiefs only, and was handed down to all the Kame- hamehas. At the present day it is in the Bishop Mu- seum in Honolulu. Happily there is a bright side, as well as a dark one. to the invasion of the whites into the Hawaiian Islands. Before the influences of Christianity the habits of the people were extremely licentious. Men lived with sev- eral wives, and wives with several husbands. Female virtue was an unknown thing, and there was no word for it. This state of things, however, was greatly altered by the missionaries. In the year 1809 a brown boy was found crying on the doorsteps of one of the buildings of Yale College. He had come from the Hawaiian Islands, and his father and mother had been killed in his presence, and as he was escaping with a baby brother the little one was killed by being slain with a spear. He himself was taken prisoner. Circumstance brought him to America, and a kind fate must have led him to the doorsteps of Yale College. This 24 DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIES. l^oy's name was Obookiah. He loved his native people, imd when kindly received by Mr. Dwight, who was a resident graduate, he expressed great desire to learn to read, that he might go back home and tell his people about the Bible, and that there was a God for them to pray to up in heaven. About a year after this Obookiah died, but two other boys who came to America with him were educated by Mr. Dwight, and at the end of ten years they, with a small band of women and men, num- bering in all only twelve, left Boston for the Hawaiian Islands. It was said to them as they left Boston, that probably not one of them would live to witness the destruction of idolatry, but when they reached the islands it had al- ready taken place. It was Kamehameha I. who had abolished idolatry, and the system of tabu. We will now quote from Dr. Bartlett, who has written a very able article on the Hawaiian Mission. By this system of tabu "it was death for a man to let his shadow fall upon a chief, to enter his enclosure, or to stand if his name were mentioned in a song. In these and other ways men's heads lay at the feet of the king and the chiefs." A woman was not allowed to eat with her hus- band, or partake of pork, fowl, bananas or cocoanuts. These things were offered to the idols, and if they did eat them, they must pay the penalty by death. This small band reached Hawaii March 31, 1820, and it was news, indeed, to them to find the tabu abolished, Kamehameha dead, and the temples destroyed. When DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIEvS. 25 Kamehameha lay dying he had asked an American trader to tell him about the Americans' God. The missionaries arrived none too soon, and were cordially made welcome. The king, with five of his wives, came out to greet them, and all were nude. The missionaries suggested it would be better to put on some clothes, and the next time the king called, he wore silk stockings and a hat. One of the first converts to Christianity was a chief- tainess, who was six feet high, bearing the name of Kapiolani. She gathered the sacred ohelo berries from the edges of the volcano, and while singing Christian hymns, threw them into the lake of fire, defying Pele to hurt her. After this act, there was a great silence, and all who witnessed it were horror-stricken, but as no calamity followed, the Queen Kapiolani turned to her people and told them of her faith in God. After, this brave act of hers, one-third of the natives became Chris- tians. The missionaries formed a Sunday school, and arranged the people into two classes, Christians, those that said they loved their enemies, and heathens, those that said they did not. They were simply taught otie thing at first, and that was that God, who also created heaven and earth, made them. William Ellis was one of the most successful of the missionaries, an Englishman, and he greatly assisted the American missionaries in their work on the islands. The first missionaries who arrived were Congregation- alists. In 1827 a French Catholic mission was estab- lished at Honolulu. In 1829 the Honolulu government 26 DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIOXAR IKS. directed the priests to close their chapels, .^on^ .,>i the proselytes were confined in irons, and Roman Catholic missionaries arriving afterwards were not allowed to land. In 1839 the French government sent a frigate to Honolulu and compelled Kamehameha III. to declare the Catholic religion free to all. The whole number of Catholics on the islands in 1872 was stated to be about twenty-three thousand. An English Reformed Catholic mission was sent out in 1862, and met with favor from Kamehameha \\. who was less in sympathy with the Protestant missionaries than his predecessors had been. An Anglican Bishop of Hawaii was appointed, who remained till 1870, and since his return in that year the mission has attracted little interest, and its success has been small. The total number of Protestant mis- sionaries sent to the islands, clerical and lay, including their wives, was one hundred and fifty-six. The cost of the missions up to 1869 was $1,222,000. Nearly every native can read and write, and in 1878 there were two hundred and twenty-two schools. In the majority of' these schools the instruction was com- municated in Hawaiian, but in some of a higher degree. English was employed, and as the people desired it, the language was more and more introduced. There has been a great deal of unpleasantness felt in Honolulu at the sensational accounts that have been written about Hawaiian leprosy, and it is only just and right to say, that visitors should have no anxiety about contracting this dread disease, as the government takes DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIES. 27 every precaution, and removes all sources of danger at once. The island of Molokai is set apart especially for lepers, and is a peninsula comprising about five thou- sand acres, surrounded on three sides by the ocean, and the fourth side is shut in by a steep precipice. This dread disease, leprosy, was first observed in the islands in 1853, ^^^^ some eleven years later it had spread to an alarming extent. Father Damien, who gave his life to the work on the island of Molokai, was born in Belgium in January, 1841. He was a Roman Catholic, and his heart was stirred by the reports of the suffering and darkness of the lepers, and he determined to go and live among them, doing jll he could to teach them of God and His infinite good- ness, and of the hereafter. He reached the island of Molokai in 1873, ^"<^^ ^^ once began his life work. He did not find one person in the Hawaiian Islands who had the least doubt as to leprosy being contagious, though one can be exposed to the disease for years be- fore contracting it. Father Damien knew that sooner or later he, too, must become a leper. How could he escape, living in a polluted atmosphere, dressing the wounds of the sufTerers, washing their bodies, staying by their sick beds, and even digging a place for their burial ? The sights and smells were nauseating, and the moral evil deplorable. Still, Father Damien never fal- tered in his work, and the government was generous, supplying food, dwellings and water. We are told that the Hawaiians are a lovable people, generous, affectionate and light hearted. They bear no 28 DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIES. ' malice whatever to the white man, though we brought ; them small pox, intoxication and evil diseases, and their numbers have decreased so rapidly since our advent as to be now nearly extinct. On the island of Molokai arj iive churches, hospitals — Roman Catholics and Protest- ants are equally numerous — and houses for the lepers. As a rule the lepers do not suffer great pain, and the average length of life at Molokai is four years, after which time the disease generally strikes some vital spot. Women are less liable to contract it than men. One woman went with her leprous husband to Molokai, and when he died she' married another, and at his death an- other. In all she had four husbands, and yet remained healthy. Father Damien felt very strongly that it was not right to part man and wife. He said to do so gave the sufferers pains and agonies far greater to bear than the disease itself. And when they ceased to care, it was v/orse still, for they plunged into a reckless, vicious life. When Father Damien reached Molokai he found an island full of natural beauties. The cliffs are tall and straight, and are generally in -shadow, but the sun casts long warm rays amongst them. The surf is high, and makes great banks of mist. There are many beautiful birds, and quantities of wild flowers. Women and men alike ride astride little ponies, and one can often see the inhabitant sitting in his little door, chatting with his neighbor, or pounding the taro root to make it into the favorite food poi. Father Damien, when he arrived at Molokai, found the practice of distilling drink was carried on to a large degree. The native v/ho DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK— MISSIONARIES. 3g partook freely of it and who succumbed to its influence forgot all decency, acted like one mad, and ran about naked. Father Damien states that the inhabitants passed their time, when he first entered amongst them, by playing cards, dancing and drinking. Their clothes were filthy on account of the scarcity of ^^-ater, which had to come from a great distance. Many a time when he was visiting the afflicted he had to run outside for a breath of pure air ; and used to smoke tobacco in order to take away from his clothing the obnoxious smell of the lepers. Father Damien lived at Molokai ten years before he contracted the disease, and suspected he had it some time before the physicians confirmed his fear. It did not dishearten him, and he kept on in his work in the same simple, saintlike way. He was on very affectionate terms with the lepers, and we quote some of the names which he gave them, and which ^Ir. Edward Clifford published in an article writ- ten by him. Let it be remembered they are boys' names : "Jane Peter, Henry Ann, Sit-in-the-Cold, The Rat-Eater, The Eyes-of-the-Fire, A Fall-from-a-Horse, Mrs. Tomp- kins, Susan, The Dead-House, The Window," etc. Father Damien died in 1889. The lepers wailed long and sadly for him, but he had gone to that eternal land of rest, where "God shall wipe away all tears from their eyes." 30 CLIMATE AND NATURAL FEATURES. CHAPTER 111. CLIMATE AND NATURAL FEATURES. The Hawaiian Islands are the Islands of Eden, the "sun lands," and, as Mr. Lyons writes, the climate may be expressed in two words, ''sunshine and breezes." It is g^enerallv warm, but very healthful, the temperature is equable, and the sky usually clear. Hurricanes, tor- nadoes or typhoons never visit these islands, and the whole tribe of frosty diseases is unknown. No one catches "their death of cold." as they do here in this country, and the most delicate lungs thVive in the at- mosphere. Children live out of doors the whole year around, and it is a Paradise of climate both for young and old. For people suffering with pulmonary trouble the climate cannot be excelled, and there are several sani- tariums on the island, where such patients can he cared for. The prevailing winds are the northeast trade winds. These blow generally about nine months of the year. The other three months the winds are variable, and usually from the south. Severe storms, with thunder and light- ning, are conspicuous by their absence. It- is well to note that a case of sunstroke has never been heard of in these islands. The mean temperature of the hottest month is 8i° Fahrenheit, and the coldest month is 62° Fahrenheit. The afternoons are shaded with the heavy masses of round clouds, which are blown in from the sea, and CI.IMATK AND NATURAL FEATURES. 31 which rest against the tops of the mountains, and toward evening showers are Hkely to come ; but sunlight is in excess, it floods everything, and is one of the things strangers first notice. Vs these islands are just within the tropics, there is ncxer any danger of frost, and extreme heats are un- known. There is great variety in temperature, as the islands are so mountainous in character. There are arctic cold and perpetual frosts high on the top of the mountains. Torrid heat prevails in sheltered valleys at sea level, while at the intervening levels any climate may be selected. fhe rain periods are March and April, when the spring rains come. Then with ^lay comes fine weather, and June is even more fine ; but with the sun in a vertical position, the midday heat is felt more than in any other month, as there are less winds, but the nights are always very cool. July brings more rain. November, Decem- ber, January and February are variable months year bv year. Sometimes one may enjoy the finest kind of weather all through the four months, and then again there may come a long continued storm. A noted sign of weather with the Hawaiians is as follows: "While clouds hang over the sea, and it is clear on the high mountains, then expect rain ; when clear space is over the sea, and clouds over the land on the mountains, then fine weather." As may be inferred, the frequent alternation of sun- shine and shadow is favorable to the rainbow, which is very beautiful and brilliant. In this connection it may \ 32 CLIMATE AND NATURAL FEATURES. be interesting to read of a scene which Mr. Curtis J. Lyons relates of the bringing back to Hawaii from San Francisco of the remains of the late King Kalakaua. He . says : *'As the cortege entered from the street the gate- way to the spacious grounds, an unusually large and . brilliant rainbow so formed itself on the background of clouds and showers and mist that covered the mountains, and so over-arched the palace with all its striking array of weeping, trailing Hawaiians gathered on the balconies and porches, and around their widowed queen, with government officials, and native citizens filling the lower and sanded walks, that the edifice was, so to speak, framed with sorrowful glory," Epidemics scarcely ever visit the islands, and when they do are usually mild. Grave diseases, such as pneu- monia and diphtheria, are alm.ost unknown. Malaria also is unknown. As before stated, there are eight inhabited islands, the others being mere rocks of no value to mankind at pres- ent. The area of these islands is as follows : Sq. Miles. Niihau 97 Kauai 590 Molokai 270 Oahu 6o(? Maui 760 Lanai 1 50 Kahoolawe 63 Hawaii 4.210 Total 6,740 CLIMATE AND NATURAL FEATURES. 33 Extinct and partially active volcanoes exist in most of the islands. Two of the largest volcanoes are Kilauea, which is usually visited by strangers, and Mauna Loa. Kilauea is not a separate mountain, but is a crater which seems to be at the base of the mountain Mauna Loa, and the idea has been, and is now commonly, entertained, that they are the same mountain with one vent, but in reality are twenty miles apart. The movement of a volcano is always from the side to the centre, like the rush of a whirlpool, accompanied by hissings and roarings. Frequently one may see a dozen fountains of fire playing near the edge, but they are soon swallowed up in one fierce vortex. At times the whole lake appears to have the form of huge waves, and dashes against the sides with large clots of fire, thrown up nearly to the top of the crater. All is confusion, terror and majesty, and the sight cannot fail to inspire one with great awe. The color is not the crimson of blood, nor the whiteness of light, but an indescribable something be- tween the two. Kilauea was in a constant state of erup- tion from 1856 to 1859, and at night it formed a most ex- quisite spectacle. One of the burning streams which it •cast off totally destroyed a small fishing village, filled up a bay on the shore, and a promontory formed in its place. In 1887 there were continued earthquake shocks. This was a grand display of nature's forces. Out of a streak of forked lightning arose what appeared to be a waterspout of immense size and height. Then would shoot up a huge pillar of smoke, which w^as lighted to a lurid red by the fiery mass below, accompanied by constant trem- 34 CLIMATE AND NATURAL FEATURES. bling and shocks, which at times the inhabitants felt might jerk the houses from their foundations. It may be interesting to note that in 1897 specimens of lava which came from the crater of Kilauea were analyzed, and found to contain 70.8 per cent, of silica, i6.i"per cent, of iron, 7.3 per cent, of alumina, 4.8 per cent, of lime, and 2.2 per cent, of sulphuric acid. The natives belong to the Malayo-Polynesian race. Their skin is of reddish brown color, resembling the hue of tarnished copper; the hair almost always of a raven black, the beard thin, face very broad, profile not promi- nent, the nose flat, and thick lips. The bulk of the natives are of moderate height. They are physically amongst the finest races in the Pacific, and noted for their well developed muscular limbs. Kauai is the so called garden of the Hawaiian Islands, and it is also said to be the oldest. Its mountainous scenery is noted for its beauty and weirdness ; every con- ceivable variety of crag and peak and gorge. The roads are perfect, of hard red clay. There are lovely hills, val leys and plateaus, which are beautiful and extensive. The flowers, shrubs and trees of the Hawaiian Islands are very numerous. Ferns grow in. one hundred ancf twenty-five varieties, from a tree in size, to the ver\ smallest. Palmetto trees grow to a height of from two to six thousand feet. The foliage is dark, and the wood beautiful in manufacture, taking an exquisite polish. It is nearly as dark as black walnut, and harder. Occasion- ally one sees a sandal tree. Their leaves are glossy, and their flowers very fragrant. There is a bright ruby col- CLIMATE AND NATURAL FEATURES. 35 ored'berry called the oheleo, and a huge raspberry called okala. Hawaii has the greatest variety of soil and climate, as it is not exposed to strong winds, and has an ample sup- ply of water falls. One of the most beautiful of the plants is the begonia, and it is found in Kauai, Maui and Molokai, in moist places, or clinging to the sides of a waterfall. Its flower is a mass of the most delicately tinted pink, fading to a creamy white. Another plant known for its oddity as well as its beauty is called brighamia-insignie. This plant resembles a huge cabbage, with the heart taken out, and the space filled in with long tubular flowers, creamy white, and very fragrant. Still another is the cape jessamine, a fine, large leafed tree, which bears pure white flowers, an inch or more in diameter, and rich and fragrant. A more showy flower is the ohiaia, which is a mass of deep red. The smilax also grows in great abundance, with its heart shaped leaves, which shine as though they were varnished, and its flowers of straw color, which appear in clusters. There is a silky fibre called pulu growing on the crown of tree fern stems, and it is exported in large quantities to America, where it is used for stuffing cushions. The kalo plant is extensively grown in wet places, and it is said that a patch of kalo measuring forty feet square yields sufficient food for a native for a whole year. The flora 01 Polynesia embrace a very great number 36 CLIMATE AND NATURAL FEATURES. and variety of fruit trees and plants, which grow in trop- ical luxuriance. They supply all the wants of the natives, and render agriculture almost needless. The bread fruit is entitled to a place in the first rank, being the principal article of food of the natives. It is cooked in various ways but is generally roasted or baked. This tree produces three or four crops a year. There are fifty different varieties. The cocoa palm flour- ishes alike in the most fertile valleys, on the wildest rocky beach, and on the mountain sides. The yam, though an excellent food, is not used much, but it is often seen on some of the islands where the land is rich, and on some of the cultivated terraces. The taro has a broad and beautiful silver green leaf and grows in soil which is covered with water. The root may be eaten at the age of one year, but it attains its per- fection at the age of two or three years. Both the leaf and root have an exceedingly pungent flavor, but in cooking this is dissipated, and the root forms a very palatable food. After having been baked and well beaten on a board with a stone pestle, it is made into paste with water, and then allowed to ferment for a few days, when it is fit to eat. This is called poi. From the root of the sugar cane is made a filthy liquor called awa. This is distilled by very rude means under a license, though it is often prepared clandestinely. A hol- low log receives the root, which has been softened by soaking, a bamboo reed passing thence through the trough of water and a calabach to receive the condensed vapor. Some years ago, the most shameful and demoral- CLIMATE AND NATURAL FEATURES. 37 izing and even murderous effects of drunkenness usually followed the indulgence in this liquor, but since the in- troduction of foreign distilled liquors, this horrid stim- ulus has not been so much in use. It is also thought that this root possesses some valuable medicinal qualities, which in time may be developed. Sandal wood was formerly cut to some extent, and ex- ported to China, where it was used in preparing tapers for the burning of incense ; but of late years this wood has become very scarce. From the inner bark of the paper mulberry, a kind of cloth or matting is made, which is used by the natives for various purposes of clothing, bedding, etc. The kukui tree yields a nut which has very rich oil. The natives use the nuts for candle purposes, stringing a number of them upon a rush, and rolling the whole in the pandanus leaves. The grape vine was planted by the missionaries, but was destroyed by the wars. In the climate of Hawaii where it is temperate, all vegetables can be raised, cabbages, cauliflowers, beans, cucumbers, pumpkins, potatoes, etc. Potatoes and corn are chiefly raised by the Portuguese and Norwegians. The corn is used largely for feed on the plantation, and when ground with the cob is used for feed for working horses and mules. The Hawaiian oranges have a fine flavor, and the limes a flavor and aroma which cannot be excelled. At pres- ent there are not enough oranges to meet the demands of the islands, but they can be easily cultivated. 38 CLIMATE AND NATURAL FEATURES. The animals of the Hawaiian Islands are not distinc- tive, except in the absence of the larger and nobler ones ; there are dogs, hogs, rats, the albatross, tropical birds, petrel, heron and wild duck, peckers, turtle doves, pigeons, the English sparrow and various other kinds of fowl. There is an abundance of fishes, horses, cows, mules, oxen, sheep, goats, cats and other domestic ani- mals have been introduced and thrive well. Pork is now the favorite food of the islander, especially of the Chinese, and as there are now fifteen thousand of the latter on the islands, there is a local market for it. ^ The general method of preparing this meat is to sur- round it with potatoes, and the taro root, and then cover the whole with taro leaves, and let it bake in a hot oven. This dish is called by the natives lu-au. Keeping horses in the islands is attended with scarcely any trouble. Veterinary doctors would starve out in Honolulu, for the horses are scarcely ever sick. They roam over the valleys and feed upon the native grasses, consequently are free from any of those ills which befall their more pampered brethren. The cost of keeping them is so little it is a luxury which the high and low can both afford, and the Hawaiian ladies' passion is for riding horseback, and they indulge themselves to a large degree. The women as a class are very attractive, and smile cheer- fully. It is very agreeable to hear them greet you with their pleasant "Aloha." There are very few owners of-sheep, but these few have large flocks, and some of the districts are particularly well suited for cattle raising. Wild cattle range the moun- CLIMATE AND NATURAL FEATURES. 39 tains, but they are of very inferior breed. They are often shot or captured with the lasso, for the sake of their hides, which are imported in great quantities. On the islands are small insects, such as the ear-rigs, locusts, crickets, cockroaches, beetles, dragon flies and moths. There is a great scarcity of the butterfly, a feature which most people regret. The coasts of the islands abound in fish — sharks, bonits. ray and rock fish ; in the fresh water streams are found salmon, eels, etc. The sperm whale, the cape whale, black fish, porpoises and others of this order are abundant in these seas. A single male whale often yields seventy to ninety barrels of oil, and fifteen barrels of spermaceti. 40 MANNERS AND CTTSTOMvS— INHABITANTS. CHAPTER IV. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS AND SCHOOLS. The domestic labor in Honolulu and in all parts of the island has been performed for many years by the Chinese males. They make excellent servants, and with ihe perfection of the climate, and the absence of many ills which the housekeepers of America have to contend against, it has made the art of entertaining not a tax. upon the hostess, but a real pleasure. As neither the theatre nor the opera has as yet appeared in the islands, the people are thrown upon their own resources, and substitute dinners, luncheons and picnics. Hospitality is second nature both with the natives and foreign residents. They vi^it each other without even the ceremony of knocking, and evening seems to be the general hour for calling. Mark Twain gives a very amusing account of his visit to these islands in 1866. He writes that he saw houses "surrounded by ample yards, and shaded by tall trees, through whose dense foliage the sun could scarcely pene- trate . . . huge bodied, wide spreading forest trees, with strange names, and strange appearance — trees that cast a shadow like a thunder-cloud, and were able to stand alone without being tied to green poles. In place of fish wriggling around in glass globes, assuming count- MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS. 41 less shades of distortion through the magnifying and diminishing quality of their prison, I saw cats — Tom cats, Mary Ann cats, long-tailed cats, bob-tailed cats, wall- eyed cats, cross-eyed cats, grey cats, black cats, yellow cats, striped cats, spotted cats, tame cats, wild cats, singed cats, individual cats, groups of cats, platoons of cats, companies of cats, regiments of cats, armies of cats, multitudes of cats, millions of cats, and all of them sleek, fat, lazy and sound asleep. I looked on a multitude of people, some white, in white coats, vests, pantaloons and even white cloth shoes, made snowy daily with chalk laid on every morning; but the majority of people were al- most as dark as negroes — women with comely features, line dark eyes, and rounded forms, inclining to the volup- tuous, and clad in a single bright-red or white garment that fell free and unconfined from shoulder to heel, long black hair falling loose and encircled with wreaths of natural flowers of a brilliant carmine tint ; plenty of dark men in various costumes, and some with nothing on but a battered stove pipe hat, tilted oh the nose, and a very scant breech cloth ; certain smoke-dried children were clad in nothing but sunshine — a very neat-fitting and pic- turesque apparel, indeed." The changes that have taken place in over thirty years .since his visit are remarkable. One no longer sees the native arrayed in silk hat and breech-cloth, and the women are attired in fashionable gowns. In the city are horse car lines, electric lights, police, water works, shops which are well filled, and very hand- some residences and villas. 42 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS—INHABITANTS. On the islands of Oahu, Kauai and Hawaii are tele- phones to every accessible point. The rent for these ma- chines is very moderate, and a small charge is made to any one wishing to use them, and who has not an instru- ment of his own. The breakfast hour in the islands is usually between the hours of 8 and 9, and the meal is much like our Amer- ican breakfast. Fresh fruit is first served, oranges, or guavas sliced, or strawberries, which they are fortunate enough to have all the year round. After that there are steaks, chops, or fish, eggs on toast, and potatoes cooked in many ways. The people also indulge in hot cakes of various kinds. their favorite being one made from the root of the taro. Like the Americans, they are great coffee drinkers. Their luncheon also resembles ours. Cold meats, hot biscuits, potatoes, cake, fruit and tea. This is the only time when this beverage is indulged in, for there are very few houses where five o'clock tea is served. Their dinner also is like ours, and their wine is chiefly claret, cham- pagne being partaken of only on festive occasions. Ladies have their reception days, and are very conscientious about returning calls. Strangers are always received with great kindness and hospitality. There are no such horsewomen in the world as the Hawaiians. They all ride astride the saddle, and wear di- vided skirts. Over the roughest roads they go like the wind. At the time of Miss Mary Krout's visit to Hono- lulu, Miss G , the daughter of the German Consul, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS. 43 was one of the most accomplished riders, and Miss Krout relates this amusing incident : "Miss G. was calling at the American Legation, and when she arose to go, one of the American naval officers who happened to be there at the same time escorted her to the gate, where her horse was tied. He looked at the saddle dubiously, then at the pretty rider in her kilted habit, and said hesitatingly and much embarrassed : *I would assist you to mount, Miss G , if — if — if you were using an ordinary saddle.' 'Thanks,' she replied, smilingly, comprehending his dilemma, 'but I do not require any assistance.' And she sprang upon her horse, and dashed away with the grace of a young cen- taur. The bew-ildered sailor looked after her much as he might have watched the rapid flight of a strange, but in- teresting bird." Nearly every afternoon the drives about Honolulu are thronged with brilliant equestrians. All classes and con- ditions swim as well as they ride. The climate is so warm it makes the bathing perfection. Beautiful convolvulus fringe the shore, and make a pretty background for the bathers. In the surf they perform all sorts of feats, and particularly one worthy of mention is that of ridinsf the waves by the use of the surf board. The surf board is a plank resembling a coffin lid, meas- uring about six feet nine inches in length. After wad- ing out from the rocks, upon which the surf is breaking, the islanders push their board in front of them, and swnm out beyond the first line of breakers. Watching for a very high wave, they will leap out from behind, lying 44 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS. with their bodies face downward upon their surf boards. The swimmers keep themselves on the highest edge of the billow, and by dexterously manipulating hand and foot ever seem to slide down the topping wave. On they come, a little ahead of the breaker, and just as you would expect to see them dashed to pieces against the rocks, they quietly vanish, and are out at sea, ready for another perilous ride. The great art attached to this aquatic feat is in mounting the breaker just at the proper lime, and to keep exactly in its curl. Old men and young girls often join in this amusement, and are wildly cheered by the spectators. Very often when luncheons are given, and the guests have assembledd, the question is asked : ** Will you have a swim ? " This is nearly always answered in the affirma- tive, and the guests go to rooms, adorn themselves in bathing suits which are provided for them, and take a swim before luncheon is announced. Men and women bathe together after our American fashion, and there is no such prudery regarding this custom as is shown by our English cousins. Another favorite form of amusement is riding out on a moolight night to Waikiki, having a swim, a jolly supper. and arriving home in the " wee sma' hours." An Ameri- can gentleman and his wife occupying a villa at Waikiki gave a ball to the officers of H. M. S. Garnet, and to the officers on board the American cruisers. They danced until midnight, when they all departed to rooms assigned them, and changed their festive gowns and uniforms for bathing dresses. It was a beautiful sight, with a full moon, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS. 45 and they swam instead of dancing to the strains of the music. When they tired of this they once more adorned themselves in their ballroom attire, and danced till morn- ing. Ease, flowers, music and plenty to eat seem to be amongst the essentials of life with the. Hawaiians. There is none of that rush and bustle so prominent in the large cities of the United States, for in Hawaii every one is content to drift along in a " dolce far niente " sort of way. It does not require a great deal for the maintenance of life on the islands. Having no winter, the demand for fuel is light, as is also the outlay for heavy clothing, both articles being so necessary in a colder climate. Besides the riding horseback and the bathing, which are indulged in so frequently, the islanders have many other forms of amusement. Tennis is played a great deal, and since the birth of the Valley Club many tourna- ments have taken place. There is a cyclomere track, where series of wheelmen's contests are frequently given. There are several cycle agencies established in the islands, and a wheel may be rented for a very moderate sum. There are a Hawaiian Rifle Association, a Hawaiian Rowing Association, and three boat clubs. Every Fourth of July a rowing and yachting regatta takes place, and the people in their in- terest and enthusiasm crowd the wharves as early as 8 o'clock in the morning. An effort has been made to establish a cricket club, as there are numerous baseball and football teams. 46 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS. One of the favorite amusements with the common people is the throwing of a blunt, dart, which varies in length from two to five feet, and is thickest about six in- ches from the point, after which it tapers gradually to the other end. These darts are made of hard wood and are highly polished. They require great care and ingenuity in the modeling. The ground upon which this game is played is laid off into a court, fifty or sixty yards long. Two or- more darts are laid down, three or four inches apart. The darts are then thrown with great force and exactness along the level ground. He who, in a given number of times, throws his dart most frequently between the stationary darts without striking either of them, wins the game. The play is principally a trial of strength. A mark is made in the ground, at which point the player must throw his dart. With the dart balanced in his hand, he retreats a few yards from the starting point, and then makes a spring forward, and throws it along the ground with great force. All the darts are left in place wherever they strike, until all are thrown, when each player rushes to the end of the course to see which one is most suc- cessful. In throwing darts, casting spears and dodging, the Hawaiians are great experts. Boxing is also a favorite national game, and is regu- lated by fixed rules, and umpires. TVnother popular sport is sliding down hill on a long, narrow sledge. The Hawaiians are also great gamblers, and their faces portray anxiety and rage when playing. The female would bet her beads, cloth, beating mallet, and every MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTvS. 47 piece of clothing in her possession, except what she would have on. The male would hazard his implements of in- d'lstry, and even the pallet on which he slept. When they lose they tear their hair, and become wild with rage. A'ery often these scenes end in serious quarrels. Another game resembling our checkers is played. AWestling is practiced by the youths, and games of "tug f war" are often indulged in. Horse racing is a very favorite sport, and on nearly all the islands there is a well regulated track, where the races are hotly contested. There is plenty of game in the shape of quail, which has been imported from Cali- fornia. Japanese and Chinese pheasants have also been imported, and do well. In the winter there are wild ducks and fowls and sport is exceedingly fine. There ar.e also dove shooting, and plenty of upland plover. The native "luau" is one of the characteristics of Ha- wiian hospitality, and from its beginning to its end is ex- tremely interesting. It is generally given by several persons, each one adding variety to the edibles. One will contribute pie, another pig, dog, or fowl, and others fur- nish the fruits and fish. They all meet at a designated place, and the natives work harder then than at any other time. Some gather the ferns, and ki-leaves, which they use in decoration; some dig the oven in the ground, and great care has to be exercised in selecting stones that will not explode as they become heated. After the food is prepared, and placed in the oven, a spread is made on the ground of ferns and ki-leaves. When the food is cooked, it is placed upon the table pip- 48 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS—INHABITANTS. ing hot, and every one squats on the ground, with legs folded under the body. Then the feast begins. All eat with their fingers, and cheer and good will prevail. The participants gorge themselves to such an extent that after eating they lie upon the grass and never have a thought for the morrow. On all festive occasions both the males and females adorn themselves with wreaths of flowers called leis, and even in every day life one hardly ever sees a native that is not adorned with these garlands of flowers. They are also considered a national decoration. These garlands are made of yellow coreopsis, tube- roses, marigolds and plumaria, and the blossoms are strung in a solid wreath on a bit of cocoa fibre. On the narrow sidewalks of Hawaii one can see the women spreading their mats and setting out their baskets of flowers, preparatory to stringing leis, and while doing so they smoke and gossip. These garlands are worn around the neck and upon the hat, some being two yards in length. The second of September commemorates Liliuokalani's birthday, and on these anniversaries, while she was Queen, she gave a "luau" and a hula dance in the palace grounds. The hula resembles very much the "coochee coochee" dance, and none but the most depraved could enjoy wit- nessing it. Sometimes it is performed to the music of an orchestra, sometimes by the singing of a wierd song and the thumping of calabashes. The hula girls wear a short frock reaching to the knees, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS. 49 their legs bare, and their ankles encircled by grass fringe. Their heads and shoulders are always ornamented with strings of "leis." The dance requires years of training, and cannot be learned by an adult, any more than an old person could be made an acrobat. In the early history of the Hawaiians the natives were, and continued to be, very eloquent speakers. Their male singers often chanted love songs, and at times these were very excellent, but they had no literature. When the son of the English missionary. Air. William Ellis, died, the following poem was composed in honor of him : '* Alas ! alas ! dead is my chief, Dead is my lord and my friend ; My friend in the season of famine, My friend in the time of drought. My friend in my poverty, My friend in the rain and the wind, My friend in the heat and the sun. My friend in- the cold from the mountain, My friend in the storm. My friend in the calm. My friend in the right seas. Alas ! alas ! gone is my friend. And no more will return." With the connections of the early schools of the isl- ands, there is much interest attached ; for there were no school books — just a few printed leaves on certain sub- jects which comprised the whole set of text books. The pupils would gather from far. and near, with these few leaves in their hands. The school houses were of the very simplest construc- tion, with only a few openings for windows and doors to 50 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS. let in light and air. It was a common method to bring the people together by the blowing of a conch shell, and that fashion is still in vogue to-day. When schools were first in session, its voice was very powerful. There were nearly one thousand schools at one time, attended in the days of popularity and success by fifty-two thousand pupils, most of whom were adults. Little was taught except reading, writing, simple arith- metic, and geography. In 1832 a geography was printed and bound without maps. This lack was largely over- come by hanging on the walls large hand drawn maps. The method of instructing the pupils was to have them recite in concert. Imagine the din created by these reci- tations, as their voices were not trained to gentle speak- ing ! In twelve years a great deal was accomplished, and thousands could. read. Some years ago a native, who was a fisher maiden, fell in love with a Kauai gentleman of prominence, and the following letter was written to him by her, though it is not the usual mode of love making in the island. "To you Mr. Willy R Will you please that Kaianea by my marriage Husband, if you said yes I want him. I heard it was a workman for you and I want him to keep myself and I to keep his self two. if you are willing you answer my letter if you know Said yes you sent back my letter and you excuse me, and I sorry MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS. 51 to myself farewell to you I stop here. Anna Kaumakapili." Manual labor has always been one of the predominant features of the school, so a native might learn to support himself, and to this day it exists. The schools of to-day have very finely developed in- dustrial training departments, and some o^^tfee most in- fluential and strongest men of the native stock the coun- try has known have graduated from these, schools. ; *~^ It is well worth noting that the firs^ w^wspaper pphj lished in the Pacific in 1833 was fi/Stvissi3e^v'from'*^e school press. jS^" p p /^ Since the earlier days, boardino^ Vcnobls-^r gi^^have re are >dioT3ls^6r gi4v^ accomplished a great deal of goo*ak^ A^p^sent^bJ^r seven such schools, four of^iwHic^ ^ in ^^(^nolulu. Among the native Hawaiiai^Spie idea of Hj^ie. in the American or European senseTis little knoW'^Zjfnd in these schools they teach the scholars to cultivafigT love for the family and home privacy. Besides the ordinary education derived from books, cooking, millinery, tailoring, and industries of a similar nature are taught. Various religious denominations con- duct these schools, but all with the same^aim in view. In 1839 a boarding school for boys was established at Hifo, and it is still in existence. The boys do much manual labor, and in this way help pay their expenses. They also raise a large part of the food which is used on the table. Carpentry has also a very prominent place. Ib 1841, at Punahon, which is twenty miles from Hon- 52 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS. olulu, a school was established which was chiefly for the education of the children of American missionaries — although from the very first it was attended by others. In 1849 i^ was chartered as Oahu College, and the very finest teachers have been engaged as instructors, and thorough education given. It is a noted fact that the graduates from this school, that have entered college in the Eastern States have always stood high in scholar- ship. The present intention of the trustees is to offer every inducement to parents or guardians in foreign countries, whose children or wards require a milder climate than offered in the United States, to place them there for education. The influences and surroundings are of the highest character, and no one need fear any comparison with the work done in the United States. The president of Oahu College is Mr. F. A. Hosmer, a gentleman of much ability and the highest attainments. The Roman Catholic Mission has schools, and books are supplied from their own press. There is also a board- ing school, under the direction of the Bishop of the Church of England. This school was established about 1862. There are certain laws attached to the school which make it compulsory for children between the ages of six and fifteen to attend, though in cases where boys of thirteen are particularly strong and active, they are per- mitted to leave upon passing certain examinations. Morality is taught, but religious instructions are pro- hibited. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS— INHABITANTS. 53 No person in holy orders is allowed to be president of the Board of Education. This board consists of six members, and none of them receives a salary. The executive officer receives a salary of two hundred dollars a month. There is an inspector general, who is required to visit all the schools from time to time. The school population in 1894 numbered about fifteen thousand, of whom 5,177 were native Hawaiians, 2,103 were part Hawaiians, 2.551 were Portuguese, 529 Chinese, 285 Americans, 184 British, and 113 Japanese, the remaining number consisting of a variety of nation- alities. Of the 483 teachers in 1897 there were 64 Ha- waiians, 63 part Hawaiians, 226 Americans, 76 British, 8 Germans, 7 Belgians, 5 French, 6 Scandinavians, i Dutch, 13 Portuguese, 12 Chinese, and 2 Japanese. Use of tools is taught, tailoring, fitting and sewing; these are all regular branches of instruction. The gov- ernment schools, which are the same as our public schools, employ half of flie number of the teachers given. An excellent kindergarten school is also maintained. About three hundred thousand dollars is expended each year to support the government schools. The Board of Education is kept in touch with the schools of the United States and Europe, and reports of the schools and their literature are exchanged. In the islands are 23,273 Protestants, 26,363 Roman Catholics, and 4,886 Mormons. This, of course, does not include all the population, as there are Japanese and Chinese, who are in all probability Buddhists.- The following are some of the Hawaiian proverbs : 54 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS -INHABITANTS. " It is better to fall in battle ; many will be the com- panions in death." " Righteousness enriches a nation, but wicked kings make it poor." " The breath of the land is established in righteous- ness." INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. 55 CHAPTER V. INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. There is room on the Hawaiian Islands for at least ten times its present population. Climate, soil and social conditions all tend to make a desirable home for those willing to work, who have energy and a moderate cap- ital to begin with. The soil of the islands is red or yellow. The red soil is generally considered good, and the yellow poor; cer- tain red soils are very fertile, while many yellow ones are sterile. Experience has proved to men engaged in agri- culture on the island that while areas of red land are very rich and fertile, there are still other red soils on which actually nothing will" grow. Certain of the yellow soils when first cultivated will yield good crops, but the source of fertility is short-lived. On the island of Hawaii are numerous sugar planta- tions. There are several hundred plantations where cof- fee is raised, and the owners range from the man who has two hundred thousand trees to him who has only an acre. At present there are thousands upon thousands of acres uncultivated, awaiting sturdy arms, and enterprising brains to develop them. Maui is a very fine island, and besides its sugar planta- tions has numerous coffee lands ; especially in the eastern part, which are now being offered. Here also are farms 56 INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. where potatoes, corn, beans and pigs are raised. Thou- sands of acres He idle here as well as in Hawaii. On the island of Oahu, a line of railroad has been constructed, and runs from the city of Honolulu to a dis- tance of thirty miles, along the coast. In the future this road will be continued around the island. Rich farming and cof¥ee lands will be opened up, and every means of transport for the produce will be 'offered. This road offers special inducements to any one wishing to invest, and special rates should they settle. Land can be obtained from the government in two different ways. The cash freehold system, and the right of purchase leases. Under the freehold system the land is sold at auction. The purchaser pays one-quarter in cash, and the rest in equal instalments of one, two and three years. Interest is charged upon the unpaid balance at a rate of six per cent. Under this system the pur- chaser is bound to maintain a home from the commenc- ing of the second year to the end of the third year. The right of purchase leases are drawn for twenty-one" years, at a rental of eight per cent, on the appraised value of the land. The lessee has the privilege of purchasing the land after the third year, at the original appraised value, provided twenty-five per cent, of the land has been cultivated, and other conditions of the lease filled. In this case a home must be maintained from the end of the first year to the end of the fifth year. The homestead leases are intended to provide persons without capital, and their heirs, with permanent homes. They run nine hundred and ninety-nine years, subject to INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE). 57 continuous use of the same as homes, and payment of taxes, and certain conditions of improvement. There is no rent and no purchase price. They are Hmited to eight acres in first class, and sixteen acres in second class agricultural lands. The limit of first class agricultural land obtainable is one hundred acres. This amount is increased on land of inferior quality. Under the above conditions the appli- cant must be eighteen years old, and obtain special letters of denization. Land can also be obtained from the various land and investment companies, and from private parties. All males between the ages of twenty and sixty pay a personal tax of five dollars^ namely — poll tax, one dollar; road tax, two dollars ; school tax, two dollars. Land pays a tax of one per cent, on the cash value, and per- sonal property a similar rate. Carts pay two dollars, brakes three dollars, carriages five dollars. Dogs one dollar, and female dogs three dollars. The sugar industry was first started in the Hawaiian Islands by its very earliest settlers. When they arrived there they found the sugar cane growing wild in great luxuriance, both in the valleys and on the flats. Captain Cook in his visit to the islands speaks of it as being " of large size and of good quality." In 1837 the white cane on the edges of the woods in Maui was at an elevation of from two to three thousand feet. There are several varieties of cane on the island, and four or five of them are natives. There is the Kokea, which is a greenish white cane ; Papaa, a purple cane ; 58 INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. Palani, a dark red cane, which looks Hke black Java, and the Ainakea, a green and yellow ribbon cane. In i860 and 1875 a yellow and green cane, which was called Pualre, was popular. This cane is large and sucrose, and having no flower, it did not tassel, so could be planted and milled at any season of the year. In 1854 and 1855 Cuban cane, known as the Lahairna, was introduced, and it has proved the most profitable cane of any in the islands. This is also the favorite cane in Cuba. It is juicy, rich in sucrose, and the wood is hard, which preverrts rats from boring it. It also fur- nishes fuel for the sugar factories. The earliest sugar manufacturer is said to be a China- man, who came to the islands in 1802, trading for sandal wood. It is quite certain, however, that syrup and molasses were manufactured before sugar. In 1835 Messrs. Ladd & Company had the first sugar mill of any importance. Everything then was very crude and primitive, and only one grade of sugar was made. The market was limited and uncertain, but under many discouraging difficulties the industry was kept alive till 1857, when there were only five plantations on the islands. In 1858 and 1859 steam was adopted as the motive power of the mills. In 1861 the number of the planta- tions had increased to twenty-two ; nine used steam for grinding, twelve were driven by water, and one by animal power. At this time the Civil War in the United States was INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. 59 raging, and the price of sugar in kegs went up ten cents. This was what gave the industry its first incentive, and from the output of two thousand six hundred tons in 1863 exported, it had increased to thirteen thousand tons in 1876. The price, however, did not continue so high. When the reciprocity treaty with the United States took effect and allowed sugar to go to the United States free, this industry flourished and increased rapidly. Farmers and business men went from America, and put new life and fresh ideas into the industry. More powerful mills were built, and new plantations started. The latest machinery wa's introduced, and now the mills compare favorably ^ with any in the United States, but room is always open for improvement. There are forty-seven plantations now in operation, but none as large as some of the Cuban plantations. Mr. H. P. Baldwin states that " the McKinley bill repealing the duty on sugar was a heavy blow to the industry, as 'under the treaty with the United States Hawaiian sugars were imported into the United States duty free. The action of Congress in 1894 imposing a duty of forty per cent, ad valorem is only a partial relief, especially as the price of sugar in the world's market is so very low. While the more favored plantations can clear a small margin in the business, a great many are running at a loss. They hold on, however, in hopes of better times, and a rise in the price of sugar. A few sugar estates have been closed up entirely and the sugar works dismantled. In 1882 there were fifty-seven plantations on the islands. Last year the number was only forty-seven. In one or 6() INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. two instances two or three small plantations consolidated into one. This will account in part for the above de- crease in the number of plantations, but it is due mainly to plantations that have been abandoned. " The first exportation of sugar and molasses that we have any account of was in 1837, when the sugar ex- ported was 4.286 pounds and 2,700 gallons of molasses. We now export 300,000,000 pounds of sugar and 50,000 gallons of molasses. This is undoubtedly the maximum amount that will be produced on the islands." He also goes on to state that " the diffusion process was first introduced into the country seven or eight years ago. This is a process of extracting the juice by means of a battery of cells, consisting of from twelve to fourteen large iron containers. The cane is first sliced up fine with sHcing machines, and then conveyed on carriers to the battery. Each cell is filled alternately, and the su- crose is extracted by means of water heated to 150 de- grees and 200 degrees Fahrenheit, which is circulated through the battery. The first diffusion plant was- erected at Keah'a, Kauai, a plantation owned by Colonel L. S. Spalding. Colonel Spalding deserves the credit of having introduced and made a success of this method of extracting juice. Since then five diffusion works have been erected, making six in all ; of these four are now running, and at least three doing satisfactory work. The diffusion plants, when properly constructed and success- fully worked, have obtained better results than the best mill work in the country, with the exception perhaps of a large nine roller mill lately erected on the Ewa Planta- INDUSTRIES AND COMiMERCE. 6l tion, Oahn. The result j^f this mill (1895) has not been fully ascertained. The loss in mill extraction is from ten to eighteen per cent., whereas diffusion extracts to within five per cent. We have both diffusion and mills on the plantation I am interested in, and I give it as my opinion that with more powerful mills, and more rollers in our mills than we have, the result in extraction will be nearly as great as in diffusion, the cost of manufacture less, and in general the result more satisfactory." The Pacific coast and the United States have always been the principal markets for Hawaiian sugar. Ship- ments have been made to Australia, and New York and Canada has been talked of as an outlet, but California has been the best market so far. The islands have all the latest implements used in agriculture. Where the land permits, the steam plough is used. Most of the plantation fields are irrigated, with the exception of those on the island of Hawaii. As the interiors of the islands are mountainous, the sugar planta- tions are near the seacoast, and some yield an average of six or seven tons of sugar an acre. Nearly all the labor on the plantations is done by Ha- waiians, Portuguese, Chinese and Japanese. They are all good workers. The Hawaiians are good teamsters, Portuguese do the heavy work, and the Chinese and Japanese factory work. The Japanese are not so easily managed as the Chinese. For those Portuguese and Japanese who cannot defray their own expenses, the planter will advance money for their passage, and they then work on contract for a given time. 62 INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. Engineers on plantations receive from $125.00 to $175.00 per month, house and firewood furnished. Sugar boilers receive from $125.00 to $175.00 per month, house and firewood furnished. Blacksmiths on plantations, $50.00 to $100.00 per month, house and fire- wood furnished. Carpenters on plantations, $50.00 to $100.00 per month, house and firewood furnished. Loco- motive drivers, $40.00 to $95.00 per month, room and board furnished. Head overseers, $100.00 to $150.00 per month. Under overseers, $30.00 to $50.00 per month, with room and board. Bookkeepers on plantation, $100.00 to $175.00 per month, with room and board. Teamsters (white), $30.00 to $40.00, room and board. Hawaiians, $25.00 to $30.00, and no board. Field labor, Portuguese and Hawaiians, $16.00 to $18.00 per month, no board. Chinese and Japanese field labor, $12.50 to $15.00 per month, no board. Bricklayers and masons in Honolulu receive from $5 to $6 per day ; carpenters, $2.50 to $5.00; machinists, $3.00 to $5.00 per day of nine hours. The domestic labor in Honolulu, and in fact all parts of the island, as has been said before, has for many years been performed by Chinese. During the last tew ■ years Japanese have entered this field, and the Japanese women are in special demand for nurses. Chinese and Japanese cooks get from $3.00 to $6.00 per week, board and room. Nurses and house servants, $8.00 to $12.00 per month, room and board. Seam- stresses get $1.00 per day and one meal. In the year 1895 the exports amounted to $8,474,- INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. 63 138.15, and the imports to $5,339,785.04. Of the exports $7,975,590.41 were accredited to sugar. Of the imports $4,121,920.22 came from Pacific ports of the United States, $394,399.16 from Atlantic ports, a total of $4,516,319.38, leaving but $1,197,698 for every other nation that the Hawaiian Islands have commercial relations with. In 1895, 91 per cent, of all the whole business of the islandc was done with the United States. Vfter sugar, the next greatest industry of the islands IS coffee. No finer cofifee in the world is produced than that of the Hawaiian Islands, but it requires the greatest care, and a crop is not produced till the third year from the time of planting. In the fifth year a good realization is made upon the investment. In case any of the readers of this book should desire to emigrate to the islands, a condensed description of th(? method of cultivating the cofifee plant is given. Coflfee is a shrub, and it requires a loose porous soil. In heavy, clayey ground which holds much water it does not thrive well. Still tiTere is very little such land in the Hawaiian Islands, for the soil is generally porous. Coffee thrives well and gives good results in various conditions of soil and heat. In these islands it grows and produces from very nearly at the sea level to the elevation of 26,200 feet. With such a range it is evident that in a tropical climate the cultivation of coffee presents greater opportunities for an investor than other tropical products. In almost any part of the island practical ex- perience has shown it can be grown with success. The beginning of the cofifee industry on a large scale in 64 INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. the Hawaiian Islands was at the time when the Olaa por- tion of the Puna district was opened up by the making of a good macadamized road from Hilo to the volcano. Now there are fift}^ cofifee plantations where six years ago stood tangled and overgrown forests. In this location there are still ten thousand acres not in use. This loca- tion is most desirable, as it has direct communication with Hilo, by a good road, and a crop could be easily taken to any shipping point, ^nd before long a railroad will be built. The soil of this district is deep and very prolific. Other portions of land are equally fertile and show good results. Many plantations are carried on simply from the sav- ings of people who are at work in Honolulu. The greatest cofifee districts are the Olaa, Puna Koua and Hamakua. As fast as circumstance permits govern- ment lands are being opened up. In order that satis- factory results may be obtained the cofifee should be properly planted, and during its life given frequent and intelligent cultivation. After first obtaining possession of land, a nursery should be planted, in order that as soon as possible the plants may be strong and healthy. The best plants are those that have been grown from a properly prepared nursery. The next best are nursery stumps. It is strongly advised for a beginner to purchase his plants, but the second year he should have a nursery of his own to select the best and strongest from. One acre of plants is sufficient for a plantation of seventy-five acres. One should select his nursery land as near his plantation as INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. 65 possible, and to insure good drainage it Should be on a slight slope. The ground should be free from rocks and stones. After ploughing the soil it should be made as line as possible. Beds should then be made, six inches high and three feet apart, and the seeds planted six inches apart and three-quarters of an inch deep. The seeds should be placed flat down and covered by brushing over tlic surface of the bed. The soil should always be kept moist, and in case of lack of rain, should be well watered. In six or seven weeks the sprouts should begin to appear. In transplanting only every other plant should be taken up. Thus more room is given for those left to grow and become stocky. After cleaning your land, which can be done for from twenty to fifty dollars an acre, by a gang of Chinese or Japanese, holes are dug for the receptacle of the young trees. The distance at which these trees should be placed is a matter of much argument, and in dififerent countries it varies ; but a distance of six feet five inches apart is the general method in the Hawaiian Islands. Trees planted this far apart yield better than trees planted closer. The rows are usually pegged out, and pieces of red cloth are laid where holes are to be dug. These holes should be eighteen inches wide and eighteen inches deep, and should remain open as long as possible, and only filled in a week or so before planting the trees. It is always well to see that there are no-stones or rocks at the bottom of the holes. The most extreme care should be taken in planting out the young trees. The trees will never thrive if the 66 INDUSTRIEvS AND COMMERCE. slender top root is doubled up, or shortened too much. The foliage will turn yellow, and the trees show every sign of decay. The top roots should be placed perfectly straight in the ground, and the lateral, roots in a natural "position. Then comes tlie time for weeding, and **a stitch in time saves nine '' has its fullest meaning in a coflfee estate. On the Hawaiian Islands there are no weeds which run to seed in less than thirty days, and if care is taken in going over the fields once a month and pulling and bury- ing any weed that is found, the labor of weeding amounts to very little. If taken at the proper time one man can do the weeding of twenty-five acres and keep it clean. During the first year after the trees are set out all that is necessary to do is to keep the fields clean of weeds, and to replace any sickly trees, or those that do not look strong, from the nursery. The second year the trees will have acquired a good growth, and require handling or pruning. This is quite an art, and it needs a great deal of patience to break in laborers to do this work welL When steadily persisted in, however, the operation be- comes more simple. During all the second year the fields should be gone over at least once in every two months, and all sec- ondaries, which are branches growing out from the first branches, should be rubbed off. This can be easily done by the fingers, if they are not over three inches long. During the third year the tree blossoms. They vary from ten to fifteen clusters on one branch, and from fifteen twentv berries in a cluster. Some trees thrive in INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. 67 the second year, but it is wiser to rut all the blossoms off, as it is very apt to weaken a tree to bear a crop at so early an age. One of the greatest things of importance is that a tree should not be overburdened with growing wood. It may be interesting to note right here that coffee only grows on wood of the second year's growth, and does not grow on the same wood again. The third year the trees require topping. As to this matter there is also a diver- sity of opinions. Some say four and a half feet, and others six or seven feet. But if topped as low as one and a half feet or not topped at all the coffee tree will not bear fruit. If topped at four and a l:alf feet it is more con- venient to pick the crop. In curing the crop, machinery must be employed, in order that the coffee may be put in a proper shape on the market. The machinery required is not very expensive, and consists of a set of pulpers, peelers and separators. These can all be bought from agents in Honolulu, who handle the best of foreign man- ufactures. With these machines a crop can be pulped, washed, cured to perfection and sorted into several grades of coffee. Coffee that is washed and pulped commands a higher price in the London markets than that which is dry hulled. Below is given an estimate of establishing and main- taining a coffee plantation of seventy-five acres, from the first to the seventh year. FIRST YEAR. Purchase of 100 acres of government land at $10.00 per acre $1 ,000.00 68 INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. I\Ianager's house and water tank 600.00 Laborers' quarters and water tank 350.00 Clearing 50 acres of land at $20.00 per acre. . 1,000.00 Fencing 300.00 x'urchase of 65,000 i -year-old coffee plants at $5.00 per M 325-00 Lining, holing and planting 50 acres 600.00 Managers' salary, i year 1,200.00 Labor of 6 Japanese i year, at $15 per month. 1,080.00 Purchase of tools and starting nursery 500.00 $6,955.00 SECOND YEAR. ?vlanager's salary $1,200.00 Labor 6 Japanese 1,080.00 Extra labor lining, holing and planting 25 acres 300.00 Sundries 500.00 $3,080.00 THIRD YEAR. Manager's salary $1,200.00 Labor 9 Japanese 1,620.00 Pulping shed and drying house 500.00 Pulper, with engine and boiler 500.00 Extra help for picking, pulping and drying 20,000 pounds of coffee from 50 acres (at 4 cents per pound) 800.00 Hulling and polishing and grading 20,000 lbs. of coffee at i cent 200.00 Sundries, bags, freight, etc 250.00 $5,070.00 Credit- By sale of 20,000 lbs. of coffee at i8c $3,600.00 INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. 69 FOURTH YEAR. Manager's salary $1,200.00 Labor 9 Japanese 1,620.00 Labor extra picking, pulping and dr}'ing 50,000 lbs. of coffee from 50 acres (at 4 cents per lb.) 2,000.00 10,000 lbs. from 25 acres (3-year-old trees) . . . 400.00 Hulling, polishing and grading 60.000 lbs. at I cent 600.00 Sundries, bags, freight, etc 400.00 $6,220.00 Credit- By sale of 60.000 lbs. coffee at i8c $10,800.00 FIFTH YEAR. Manager's salary $1,200.00 Labor 9 Japanese 1,620.00 Picking, pulping and drying 60.000 lbs. coffee from 50 acres, and 25.000 lbs. from 25 acres, at 4 cents 3.400.00 Hulling, polishing and grading 85,000 lbs. at I cent per lb 850.00 Sundries, bags, freight, etc 500.00 $7,570.00 Credit- By sale of 85.000 lbs. coffee at 18 cents $15,300.00 Balance on hand 905.00 SIXTH YEAR. Manager's salary $1,200.00 Labor 9 Japanese 1,620.00 Picking, pulping and drying 75.000 lbs. coffee from 50 acres and 25,000 lbs. from 25 acres, 100.000 lbs. at 4 cents 4,ooc,oo 70 INDTJSTRIEvS AND COMMERCE. Hulling, polishing and grading 100,000 lbs. at I cent 1,000.00 Sundries, bags, freight, etc 1,000.00 $8,820.00 Credit- By sale of 100,000 lbs. of coffee at 18 cents. . . $18,000.00 Balance on hand 10,085.00 SEVENTH YEAR. Manager's salary $1,200.00 Labor 9 Japanese 2,160.00 Picking, pulping and drying 125,000 lbs. of coffee at 4 cents 5,500.00 Hulling, polishing and grading 125,000 lbs. at I cent i ,250.00 Sundries, bags, freight, etc 1,200.00 $11,310.00 Credit- By sale of 125,000 lbs. of coffee at 18 cents. . . $22,500.00 Balance to credit of plantation at end of seventh year . 21,275.00 The yields as given in this estimate are far below what may be attained by thorough cultivation and fertilizing. The coffee tree responds readily when under good treat- ment, but if neglected it disappoints its owner. While a coffee planter is waiting for his trees to grow and yield returns on his investment, living must be close, and cash must be paid out for the necessary improve- ments, but he can plant other things which will provide food for himself and his family, and which will also yield a moderate income. The soil and climate will grow al- INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. 7r most anything that grows in other countries. The land is there, the chniate is there, it only requires brains and a small capital combined with energy to realize, in one- fourth the time, such comfort and independence as can- not be realized in old countries. Green and sweet corn, Irish and sweet potatoes, beans, tomatoes, lettuce, radishes, cabbage, cauliflower, pump- kins, and squashes all grow and thrive well. Straw- berries and raspberries grow the year around. A native peach does well, and bears fruit in two years from seed. They are smaller than our American peaches, but very sweet and juicy, and make delicious preserves. There is also the mango, a tropical fruit free, which is much liked by every one. and the fruit when green is made into preserves, resembling our apple butter. The Paha is a quick growing shrub, bearing a berry that makes ex- cellent jam. A patch of pohas planted -in a garden grows one to four feet high, and yields a supply of fruit almost without cultivation. Any land that will grow coffee will grow bananas, and there is no limit to the productions of this fruit on the large islands of Hawaii. They can be raised at an ex- tremely low rate, and although it is still in its infancy, the trade amounts to one hundred thousand bunches, valued at one hundred thousand dollars. There is also no limit to the production of pineapples. In 1895 the pineapples sent to San Francisco amounted to the value of nine thousand dollars. The guava, which grows wild, could be put up profitably for the manu- 72 INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. facture of guava jelly. Well made guava jelly can find a market anywhere. The cocoa or chocolate tree will grow and yield fair re- turns in certain districts. Among other trees and plants which will yield after the lapse of a few years are the Ceara rubber tree, the Para rubber tree, and the camphor tree. This latter tree will grow almost anywhere on these islands, where there is a sufficient rainfall. Camphor is obtained from the wood and roots by distillation. Rice, neither the European or American can culti- vate, as laborers. It requires working on marshy land, and though on the islands it yields two crops a year, none but the Chinaman can raise it successfully. Maize and wheat are raised, and flour is manufactured. A fibre plant of great promise is the sisal plant. In some respects the prospect of this industry is greater than the bowstring hemp, by reason of the totally different character of the soil required for its successful cultiva- tion. While the bowstring hemp requires a rich, wet land to do well, and gives a large yield of fibre per acre, the sisal will thrive and give the best results on the dryest lands that are to be found on the islands, always provid- ing there is sufficient soil for the roots to get a foothold. There are thousands of acres of such lands that are prac- tically useless, but which by the means of the sisal plant may be made to support thousands of people, and add to the wealth of the country far beyond the dreams of the most sanguine. Cotton is a possible industry, as it is well suited to the climate and soil of the islands. INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE. 7 3 In 1895 the exports accredited to coffee were ^22,- 823.68; to bananas, $102,599.25, and pineapples, $8,- 738.84. There has been a steady increase in the importation of musical instruments in the past three years, the list com- prising fifty-four pianos, twenty parlor organs, five hun- dred and sixty-nine guitars, thirty-three banjos, twen- ty-eight mandolins, forty-seven violins, and other musical instruments. Plantation labor statistics from the latest report of the Secretary of the Bureau of Immigration, 1897, are as fol- lows : One thousand six hundred and fifteen Hawaiians, 2,268 Portuguese, 6,289 Chinese, 115 South Sea Isl- anders, and all others 600. The market for all kinds of labor is overstocked, so it would be very unwise for any one to go to the islands without capital, on the mere chance of getting employment. The total value of fresh fruits imported to the islands during the year 1896 was $14,154.97, most of which was received from California and her sister States. There were forty-four barrels, and seven thousand and nmety- nine boxes of apples, one thousand four hundred and six- ty-eight boxes of oranges, six hundred and seventy-five boxes of limes, four hundred and seventy-six boxes o^ pears, two hundred and eighty of plums, one hundrec and eighty of cherries, and one hundred and thirty-seven of peaches. There are twenty-five miles of railroad in operation on the island of Hawaii, seven miles in Maui, twenty-five 74 INDXIvSTRIES AND COMMERCE. miles in Oahu, in the vicinity of Pearl Harbor, and lit- teen miles at Wiane ; total length of seventy-two miles. HONOLULU. 75 CHAPTER VI. HONOLULU. Honolulu is situated on the south side of the island Oahu, and on account of the good, anchorage and shel- tered position of its harbor, it has been given the rank of the capital city of the Hawaiian Islands, still before it be- gan to be the resort of commerce it was all but unknown m the history of the country. Honolulu is nearly central to the whole group of islands, and the harbor is decidedly better adapted than any other to meet the wants of a commercial metropolis. Captain Brown of the English ship "Butterworth/' is said to be the first one who discovered Honolulu, and he gave it the name of "Fairhaven." This name was very appropriate to the place, but it soon fell into disuse when a native substitute was found for it. Within a few years after its discovery, Honolulu was the most important port in Kamehameha's kingdom. Its great merit lay in the fact that it was safe in all seasons of the year, and in almost any weather. It is sheltered by the land from all quarters but the south, and it is only ry seldom that it blows a gale from that direction. Even then, although the entrance cannot be attempted, the roughness of the sea is abated for the ships lying 76 HONOLULU. within by the outlying reef which bounds the inner har- bor. As soon as the whalers began to frequent the place in numbers, a town quickly sprung up, and in 1820 Hono- lulu contained six or seven thousand inhabitants, while to-day its population reaches thirty thousand. Many persons have variously described the view of Honolulu as they approached it from the sea. Some have gone into raptures over it, whilst others have been disappointed. Unless the traveler has been led to ex- pect something extremely wonderful, he cannot fail to be charmed with the view of the city and its surrounding scenery, as seen from the deck of an incoming steamer. It is quite true that the hills of Oahu have not that same luxurious vegetation that so many islands of the Southern Pacific are noted for, and the city has no par- ticular building to attract attention, but without doubt Honolulu is a prettier place to gaze at from the sea than nineteen out of twenty cities to be found anywhere on the face of the globe. It has been rightly called ''a city in a grove." To me, standing upon the top of the Punch Bowl, the city is a mass of beautiful green foliage, with here and there a flag pole, indicating that somewhere beneath the tree tops is a dwelling. Twenty-five years ago little could be said of praise in regard to the city, however pleased one might be with the surrounding scenery. The streets were dusty, houses insignificant, irregularly built and located, with scarcely a tree anywhere to be seen. All this is now changed, and by nothing more than the HONOLULU. 77 growth of the trees, at present so universally to b? found throughout town and suburb. The city is very clean, and one is struck by the a])sence of poverty and squalor. There is no smoke or soot, and scarcely any dust, for the streets are constantly swept. The filthy aheys and unsightly premises, which so often offend the sight and smell in American towns, are never found in Honolulu, and even about the tiniest houses oc- cupied by Chinese and Portuguese one may see neat fences, gardens with a variety of flowers and vines trained against the v.alls, where figs can ripen upon the trellises. Honolulu is built on low ground with towering hills at her back, and the lovely sea in front. It is, indeed ,a ciey of foliage, whose tropical trees are laden with a variety of bloom and fragrance. A few of the most important buildings reach the tree tops, but for the most part the houses and stores are com- pletely hidden by rich evergreen foliage. This alone gives a character of its own to Honolulu w^hich, charming as it is when seen from the sea, is still more delightful when its cool shade is experienced in the streets and gardens of the town. The first evidence of commercial activity of the port which the visitor sees is the large and very substantial wharf, or dock, as it is usually designated. Here the large steamers of the Mail Service can and do lie along- side with ease. On the wharf is an immense landing shed, and back of this a large stone building, occupied as a warehouse for bonded goods. Along the shore to the west is a series of wharves. Next to the one used by the 78 HONOLULU. Steamers is the wharf of Messrs. Wilder & Co., who are extensively engaged in the lumber trade, and they are the owners of the steamer ''Like-like," which runs to the other islands ; this wharf is a very busy one. Next to this lumber dock i^ one which is owned by the Government, and is used almost entirely by foreign ves- sels. Wharves of Messrs. Allen and Robinson anc' Messrs. .Brener & Co. follow next, and then the Fish Market wharf. All of these docks have deep water at theii sides. The ship43uilding yards of Messrs. Tibbett and Soven- sen and ]Mr. Emmes are also here, and they have accom- modations for vessels of considerable size. Facing the Government wharf, which is termed the "Esplanade Wharf," are the large Custom House build- ings. These buildings are constructed of solid-looking stone, and with corrugated roofs, rendering them "the safest stores in town, and they are recognized as such by all ihe insurance companies. They occupy a block in themselves, having open ground on three sides, and a wide street on the fourth. When one arrives at the wharf from the steamer, he finds individuals from almost every nationality waiting to greet him, but the Kanaka and the American certainly predominate. Should the steamer come from San Fran- cisco, the Chinese element is most in evidence. The Hawaiian Hotel is the pride of all the whites in Honolulu, and was built by the Government at a cost of one hundred and twenty thousand dollars. HONOLULU. 79 It is always full and overcrowded when a steamer is in port. It has good water supply and is furnished with electric lights. The verandahs are very broad and airy, and made inviting by numerous chairs and wicker lounges. At one end is a Lanai. This is an apartment which is open on three sides, and should it rain, there are curtains of matting which can be used to shut out the in- '^lement weather. It is hung with Japanese lanterns, fans nd umbrellas. It is prettily furnished with \\icker tables :id chairs. The drawing room is cheerful and comfort- able, but one scarcely ever sits there, the piazzas being preferred. In the drawing room is a handsome bust in marble of the late King Mctor Emanuel, which was pre- sented to King Kalakaua when he visited Italy during his tour of the world. The late King Kalakaua gave it to his Mormon Premier Gibson, and he or his heirs presented it to the hotel. The dining room is anything but attractive, being big and bare, and one is waited upon by Chinese servants. In Honolulu are sixty-seven miles of streets and drives ; they are not straight, and yet it is very easy to find your way about the town, as soon as you have learned the names of the principal streets. The only street which gives you a long vista is Nuuanu avenue, which leads out of town to the northern part of the isl- and. The Government buildings are plain, but of handsome structure, and are a credit to the city. The large central hall and staircase of the building are lighted by a lantern tower, which is one of the most conspicuous objects in 8o HONOLULU. any view of the town from the sea or shore. The offices of the several Ministers of State are in this building, also the Board of Health, Board of Immigration and Educa- tion Board. Upstairs is the hall where the Supreme Court holds its sessions, also the ofTfices of the law courts. On this same floor are the National Museum and the Library. The library is a very creditable one, and as one might expect, it is particularly rich in works on the Hawaiian Islands, their people, language, flora, fauna, etc. The library is always open for purpose of reference to the public. The reading j-oom is supplied with newspapers from all parts of the United States and Great Britain. A large number of American and English magazines and reviews are to be found here. On the Erra Road, which leads out from the town, is the Insane Asylum. It consists of a series of one-storied buildings which are detached from the superintendent's house. The trade wind is almost always blowing down the Nuuanu Valley, and the asylum could not be better situated to catch this health-giving breeze. Although the grounds are not extensive, there is plenty of shade for the inmates. Some of tlie patients are able to work, and can raise the taro for their own use. A short way back in the direction of the town, about a mile from the city, is another Government institution, the Industrial and Reformatory School for boys. The grounds occupy about six acres, half of which is taken up by building and play grounds, and the rest is planted with bananas. The building is a two-story one, and on HONOLULU. 8 1 the ground floor is the school room, class room and din- ing room. The second floor is used for' sleeping pur- poses only. There are a number of outhouses, such as hospital, cooking shed, bathing shed, etc. The school has also, in addition to these grounds, about twenty acres on another street, which is planted with kalo. The Oahu prison is on the west side of the town, and right at the mouth of the Nuuanu Valley. It is modelled after the Charlestown prison, and thus far has proved large enough to contain the criminals of the country. All prisoners who are sentenced for over three months are sent there. It accommodates one hundred and seventy, and the usual number of inmates average about one hun- dred and fifty. Detached from this building is a small, but neat and airy hospital, which contains twelve beds. A physician visits this institution daily, and although there have been epidemics of measles and mumps no deaths have occurred. As one looks seaward from the prison, one can see the Quarantine Station, which is erected upon a reef. It is well equipped with a modern hot air and steam disin- fecting plant of large capacity, so that quarantine matters are handled intelligently and efficiently, and the introduc- tion of disease by foreign steamers is of rare occurrence. The most important schools in Honolulu are the Oahu College, lolani College, which is also called Bishop's College School, St. Andrews' Priory, Sisters of the Sa- cred Heart School, Kanaiahao Female Seminary, Royal School, Pohukaina Girls' School, Kindergarten on the Froebel system, and many small schools. 82 HONOLULU. Besides these schools there is a Theological College called The North Pacific Missionary Institute, presided over by Rev. Charles M. Hyde, D. D. This is a train- ing school for native postors, and the young misionary is taught not only theology, but how to live. With their families established in comfortable apartments, they learn how tp keep a model home, a training which is of the greatest value to the future parish. Honolulu has been called "a city of missions," and tl^ Hawaiian Islands certainly present a broad field for work with their mingled nationahties. The annual report of the Hawaiian Evangelical Asso- ciation for 1897 shows under its control twenty-one rla- tive churches in Hawaii, seventeen on Maui and Molo- kia, ten on Oahu and seven on Kauai, with a total mem- bership of four thousand one hundred and sixty-seven. In the city of Honolulu the native churches of Kawaia- hao and Kaumaka are in a flourishing condition, and have over one thousand members. One of the most powerful agencies for good is the Central Union Church, which is under the charge of the Rev. Douglas Birnie. A more active and religious body is scarcely to be found any- where in the United States. It has five hundred and twenty-three members and five hundred in the Sunday School. With the help of good friends it supports mis- sions among the Hawaiians, Portuguese, Japanese and Chinese, not only in Hololulu, but in all parts of the isl- ands. Mr. Frank Damon, who has charge of the Chinese Mission, has been most successful in his work. The Chinese church has one hundred and twenty-four HONOLULU. 8i members ; the Japanese church one hundred and twenty- two, and the Protestant Portuguese church fifty-six. The Roman Cathohcs have two large churches, num- bering fourteen thousand natives and twelve thousand Portuguese. They have sixty missions which have been established on the dififerent islands. The Anglican Chuch begun its mission in 1862, upon the arrival of the Right Rev. I. M. Staley, D. D., who was the first Bishop of Honolulu. They have a very beautiful cathedral called St. Andrews. In 1893 ^ Methodist Episcopal Church was established ; it has one hundred members, and ninety in its Sunday school. A church of the Christian denomination was started in 1894 by Rev. I. D. Garvin. D. D. Its members amounc to one hundred and seven, and the Sunday school to eighty-five. Three years ago the Salvation Army located a corps in the city and it has been very active in religious work. Queen Emma's Hospital is a large institution and is just outside the town, under the Punch Bowl. This hos- pital was named for the wife of Kamehameha IV., and both the King and Queen contributed largely to tl^e sub- scription for the erection of this building. It accommo- dates over one hundred persons, and is nearly always full, as it is the only hospital for all races. The Sailors' Home, situated on the Esplanade, facing the new market building, is a very attractive structure in design, being of brick, And two stories high. Many lead- ing citizens take a deep interest in this enterprise. 84 HONOLULU. On Saturday all the people who can come into town do so, and go to the fish market. Not only fish, but fruits, vegetables and meat can be purchased there. The fishermen and those who sell the fish are chiefly natives, and this is the place to see them dressed in their quaint garments, with their garlands of leis about them, wholly absorbed in the business of the day. It may be interesting to the reader to learn the price of some of the provisions in the market at Honolulu. Fresh Hawaiian butter, twenty-five to fifty cents per pound. Hams, sixteen to thirty cents a pound. Bacon, sixteen to twenty cents a pound. Cheese, twenty to thirty-five a pound. Family pork, fifteen to eighteen a pound. Corned beef, seven cents a pound. Fresh meat, six to fifteen a pound. Porter house steaks, six to fif- teen a pound. Tinned fruits, one dollar seventy-five to two dollars and a quarter a dozen. Golden Gate flour, one hundred pounds, two dollars and a half. Lower grades two dollars and twenty cents. Hawaiian rice three to five dollars for one hundred pounds. Bananas, twenty-five to fifty cents a bunch. Potatoes, one to two cents a pound. Eggs, twenty-five to fifty cents a dozen. A case of rolled oats, five dollars and a half. Ice, in small quantity, one and a half cents a pound, and over fifty pounds, at one cent a pound. Water pipes are laid nearly all over the town, and the city is lighted with electric lights. Honolulu has a com- plete telephone system. Surface cars, drawn by mules, run at short intervals along the principal streets, and continue out to Waikiki, HONOLULU. 85 which is the sea bathing resort, and to the public parks, four miles from the city. An excellent musical band composed almost entirely of Hawaiians, and numbering between twenty and thirty, performers, who execute com- plicated European music with accuracy and pleasing ef- fect, play at the Park every Sunday afternoon. Twenty-eight years ago a branch of the Y. M. C. A. was started in Honolulu with Sandford B. Dole as its first President. To-day the association occupies a hand- some brick edifice in the heart of the city, with hall, read- ing room, parlors and gymnasium. The Bishop Museum is a very handsome building of modern design, and costing over one hundred thousand dollars. It is built of native stone and the interior is finished with kra and kru woods, which take on a very high polish, and are very beautiful, excelling many of our hardwood finishings. A stranger is both surprised and interested at the extensive collection in the museum. A large addition is being erected, at a cost of forty thousand dollars, in order to have more space, so the collection can be enlarged. There are four banks in Honolulu, all having large capital stock and deposits. The legal tender is gold, with a money circulation of gold, silver and silver certificates. Money may be obtained on first class paper, bond or mortgage, at six per cent, interest. There are many beautiful drives one can take in Hono- lulu, one of the most interesting being to the Punch Bowl, which is an extinct volcano, about five hundred feet high, just back of the city. From this point many 86 HONOLULU. charming views are obtained, and Honolulu looks like a large park on the border of the sea. Another beautiful drive is to Waikiki, which is about three miles and a half from the business portion of the city, and is quite a seaside resort, with many handsome residences and cottages. The beach is very sandy, and the water, at a delightful temperature for bathing, is safe from danger by its guarded reefs. A short distance beyond is Diamond Head, which is a rock about fifteen hundred feet high. This is the first land seen when one is entering the harbor, and last viewed when leaving. Another drive is a trip to Tantalus, a mountain peak two thousand feet high, which overlooks noti only Hono- lulu, but the whole stretch of country from Coco Head to Barber's Point. A good carriage road can be found the whole distance, which winds through shady forest glades and wild shrubbery. Honolulu has many fine stores, and the windows are dressed with musMns, calicos, silks and laces, and resem- ble our American shop windows, while the prices are about the same. There are book stores, china stores, picture stores and art stores, and if you ask for a thing the proprietor may not have he will order it for you. One merchant, whose name is Ah Fong, married a woman half American and half Hawaiian, and he has made such a large fortune that both he and his family occupy a high place in society. His family consists of four sons and thirteen daughters. Four of the daughters have become lericans, one of whom is a naval ofificer. HONOLULUo 87 There are a number of engine and hose companies, one of which is composed of well disciplined Chinese, who raised enough money among their own countrymen to buy their engine and uniforms, and to erect their own engine house. There are three evening papers, pub- lished daily, one daily morning paper, and two weeklies. Besides these there are papers published in Hawaiian, Portuguese, Japanese and Chinese languages, and monthly magazines as well. Holidays and anniversaries, national or otherwise, oc- cupy a very prominent place in the minds of the Hawaiians, if not in their heart ; for with the light-hearted, easy-going race, who are more impulsive than they ar. prudent, the occasions for gaiety, festivity, feasting and excitement touch them as may be said, "right where they live." The holidays which they enjoy are January ist. New Year's Day; January 17th, anniversary of the downfall of the monarchy (this has been observed regularly since 1893. but not made a national holiday till 1896) : Chinese New Year's Day, February ist; February 22d, Washing- ton's Birthday; March 17th (this is not St. Patrick's Day in Hawaii, but the birthday of Kamehameha H., which is commemorated because of his consideration for the people in giving them lands) ; Good Friday ; Queen Vic- toria's' Birthday, May 24th, and Decoration Day, May 30th. June nth, Kamehameha's day, which has been in ex- istence since the latter part of the reign of Kamehameha 68 HONOLULU. v., but which is, in fact, the ''Derby day" of Hawaii, the annual races taking place at Kapiolani Park. July 4th, fhrough declaring the Republic of Hawaii in 1895 on the anniversary ot* American Independence, has since been a dual celebration. The third Saturday in September is set apart for Regatta Day, and to encour- age aquatic sports. Thanksgiving Day, the anniversary of Hawaiian Independence, November 28, and Christmas Day. On this latter day the lepers at Molokai are al- v;ays generously remembered. San Francisco and Victoria are the two points of de- portation for th^ Hawaiian Islands. One steamer sails for Honolulu, stays a few days, and returns to San Francisco, and the other stops at Honolulu, and then goes on to Australia. There are now seven steamship lines crossing the Pacific from the United States and British Columbia ports, to China, Japan and Australia, and to six of these Honolulu is a port of call. The residential portion of the city is composed of beautiful villas, many of which would compare favorably with some of the fine residences of America. Each home- stead is surrounded by large gardens, with tropical trees and plants. The Detroit Free Press gives the following description of the residence of Mr. Fred. J. Lowry: "In the center a marble pool with a dainty, fairy-like ■fountain, whose waters at will can be made to ascend as high as the third story up through the air shaft over the pool, upon which the bedrooms look. To the right of the pool, as one enters, is the music-room, with its grand HONOLULU. 89 piano and appropriate belongings. To the left of the pool is the space devoted to the dining table, while all around the pool one finds cosy lounging chairs, books galore, statuary, potted plants, all the appurtenances of a well- ordered library, the three sections of this lower floor combining in one delightful expanse of polished floor and Turkish rugs, undivided except for the Greek col- umns at the four corners of the pool." ]\Iost of these villas have "Tanai," or open air living rooms. When the weather permits the meals are served here, calls are received, the sewing done ; and all the year around this living room is one of the chief attractions of a Honolulu residence. Too much cannot be said of the American and Eu- ropean society in Honolulu. Nearly all the younger generation who are identified with the business interests of the islands have been educat- ed in the best colleges of America. Most of the women have received their education in the United States, and are naturally well informed. Generosity and hospitality go hand in hand in the islands, and are a part of the daily life of the inhabitants. The following is Mark Twain's tribute to Hawaii : "No alien land in all the world has any deep, strong charm for me but that one ; no other land could so lov- ingly and beseechingly haunt me, sleeping and waking, through half a life time as that one has done. Other things leave me. but it abides ; other things change, but it remains the same. For me its balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun ; the puis- 90 HONOT^ULU. ing of its surf beat is in my ear. I can see its garlanded craigs, its leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore ; its remote summits floating, like islands, above the cloud rack. I can feel the spirit of its woodland soli- tude ; I can hear the splash of its brooks ; in my nostrils still lives the breath of flowers that perished twenty years ago." SOME OTHER ISLANDS AND TOWNS. 91 CHAPTER VII. SOME OTHER ISLANDS AND TOWNS. The island of Hawaii, from which the whole group derives its name, is in the southern part of the Hawaiian Islands. The windward side of the island, which in- cludes Hilo, Hamakua, Puna and North Kohola, has a great deal of rain, and the streams rush wildly down every gulch and ravine. These streams furnish power for electric motors and supply the mills, which, though driven by steam, require also a large water supply. The leeward side of the island, which embraces South Kohola, North and South Koua and Kau, is not ex- posed -to heavy rains, and yet still has an ample supply of water falls. The Koua district has given the coffee product a name which is known all over the world. The approach to Hawaii on the windward side is one of unsurpassed beauty. The shores are rich in a mass of green verdure, and the plantations in the distance look even greener, and down the crags of the coast are num- erous rivulets and waterfalls, while far away, if the day is clear, may be seen the peaks of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. On the island of Hawaii are numerous sugar planta- tions, and cofifee employs several hundred owners, from 92 SOME OTHER ISLANDS AND TOWNS. the man who has two hundred thousand trees to the on who may have only an acre. Hilo is a famous sea-shore resort on this island, and from Honolulu by a direct sea route the distance is es- timated to be almost one hundred and ninety-two miles, and a steamer of moderate speed can accomplish the trip in almost twenty-four hours. On the map Hilo Bay is frequently marked Byron's Bay, after Captain Lord Byron, who was the first to make an accurate survey of it, which he did in 1825. The proper native name for Hilo Bay is Waiakea, but as is quite natural, it is called from the town itself. Hilo Bay has an excellent harbor, and if commerce needs it, can be rendered safe and commodious by a breakwater which runs out from the shore to Cocoanut Island. There is room for a whole navy here, if neces- sary, and the water is deep enough for the largest ship afloat. The town is well laid out and very pretty. One can see great stretches of cane fields all yellow and green, and the tall, graceful cocoa palms with their plumy- branches. As the roads in Hilo are n6t very good, one must either go about on foot or on horseback. The prominent business street fronts the bay, with stores which meet /with the requirement of all. The town is quaint and pretty and has beautiful surroundings. On Church street are the residences of the majority cf the town's people, who are not natives, although on Kin:.' street are many more fine residences, and also on th" latter street is one of the most useful institutions of Hi;' Dr. Kittredges' Sanitarium. This is a medical boardin , SOME OTHER ISLANDS AND TOWNS. 93 house, and yet travelers may be accommodated and find everything comfortable at a moderate charge. The Court House and Post Office occupy the centre of a large square, and the lawns are planted with beautiful exotic trees. There are a number of excellent schools in Hilo, both for boys and girls. The tourist can make many pleasant excursions from 1 iiio. and one of the most agreeable is to Cocoanut Point, which is almost a mile and a half from the town. A great many picnics are held at this point, and the natives have this f?mous tradition in regards to the place: There is a large rock out from Cocoanut Point called Mokuola, and the natives believe if any one is suffering from any ailment, if he will swim out around the rock and back agdin he will be healed. Not a week passed but some one undertakes this swim, but if the cure is permanent we are not prepared to say. On the south side of the bay, further on from Cocoa- nut Point is Keokea Point. One can ride out from Hilo to this place in about half an hour and obtain a most beautiful view of Hilo and its surroundings. From the bay in front you have a dozen miles of the coast line spread before you in the shape of a cocoanut, and at your back the land slopes gradually upwards till it reaches the forest. Another charming trip is to the falls of the Wailuku River, the Rainbow Falls as they are generally called, and which are only two miles from Hilo. Thes^ falls are said to be very beautiful, and when the afternoon sun strikes them they look like a perfect rainbow. Miss 94 SOME OTHKR ISLANDS AND TOWNS. Krout in describing her ride to these falls says that she "passed numbers of interesting Japanese houses, neat as f.he houses of a toy village, each with its bit of garden, in which tapioca and ginger were growing and thriving. Portuguese, who are even more successful farmers than the Chinese, were standing in the verandas of theit small houses and smiled affably at us, surrounded by swarms of young children. If they had been encouraged and could have obtained land the Portuguese would long ago have redeemed the waste places of Hawaii and made the desert place blossom as the rose. Removed from the tyranny of a State religion they become liberal and pro- gressive, no longer the servile tools of the priests. They are a most temperate, industrious and peaceable people, prizing above all things the little home which each as- pires to acquire and hold ; and they are in every way most desirable as colonists. At the end of one long and unutterably boggy lane we met a handsome Hawaiian boy carrying home a sackful of grass. He wore the us- ual white cotton shirt and blue cotton trousers, both soaked with rain. He was barefooted, and round the crown of his hat was wound a small American flag, the blue of the ground faded into the white stars, which the running dye had completely blurred. Portuguese, Jap- anese and Chinese we had passed in that ride, and here at the parting of the ways stood youthful Hawaii pen- sively surveying us, his black eyes looking out from undef that little wet flag above his hat brim." All kinds of fruit grow in Hilo ; figs, peaches, tama- rinds, oranges, apples, and bananas raised in Hilo arc SOME OTHER ISLANDS AND TOWNS. 95 said to be finer than any found elsewhere in the world. All kinds of vegetables can be grown, and the climate is "^ost enjoyable. Another trip is to the volcano Kileauea. The road from Hilo is a gradual ascent, and one drives through the Chinese quarter, with its quaint shops, and little children playing in pink, blue and yellow costumes, and the boys queues lengthened by threads of rose color interwoven in them. Beyond the Chinese quarters are the cane fields, in which great bands of Japanese find employment, for they can labor and endure the heat and dust of the cane fields and are also very swift in cutting the cane. The flow of the crater Kileaua is said to be three miles in width, and is reached by a descent of twelve hundred feet. The lake of fire is on the farthest side of the vol- cano, and its billows rise and fall like the surges of a bloody sea. Tourists from all over the world have vis- it^ed this volcano, and at the hotel is a register upon whose pages are the names of many verv distinguished guests. At Hakalau, another town on the island of Hawaii, is the large sugar plant?.tion owned by Messrs. Claus Spreckels & Co. This is about fifteen miles 'from Hilo, and everything is carried on in a very extensive way. All the modern improvements as regards the mill and plantation are of the finest, and everything denotes from the appearance of the surroundings that all is carried on in the best manner possible. Mr. Spreckels has proved himself to be the right man in the right place, and stands in the foremost rank as a sugar planter. 96 SOME OTHER ISLANDS AND TOWNS. At Laupahoehoe and Ookala are numerous other sugar plantations in thriving conditions, but few people besides those interested in the plantations live there. Forty-two miles from Hilo is llamakua, which is beau- tifully situated almost a mile from the sea, and here also is a very large sugar plantation. It seems as if the whole country round about was created on purpose to grow the sugar cane. All over the island the sugar plantations are very numerous and equally thriving. Every Monday afternoon a boat leaves Honolulu at four o'clock for the island of Kauai, arriving there at six the following morning. The first stopping place is Nawiliwili, then to Hauamaulu, Kapoa and Kilama. This first island is called the ''Garden Island" because it is so well watered and is so luxuriant in vegetation. The fern forests of Kauai are beyond description in their love- Imess. Besides the cultivation of sugar on this island it has also many rice plantations, and cofifee could be grown here with much success. The climate of Kauai is most delightful, never hotter than 85 degrees and never lower than 60 degrees. Nearly everything grows on this island, and fishing and shooting cannot be exceled. In the different towns on the island are handsome residences and a number of schools. A steamer also sails weekly for the island of Maui. Sometfmes the pass^age is a very rough one, for the channels between the islands of Oahu, Maui, Molokai and Hawaii are said to be the roughest waters on the globe. SOME OTHER ISLANDS AND TOWNS. 97 Wailiiku and Kahului are the two most important towns on this island, and both are largely devoted to the raising of sugar cane. Mr. Claus Spreckels owns a large sugar plantation on the island also, and Maui owes much of its wealth to him. Nine miles from Wailuku is a large dairy ranch, and the country abounds in fine pastures. The hedge rows are of cactus, which grows from five to ten feet high, and are very curious in appearance. These cacti serve the cattle in dry weather as a substitute for fodder, as horses as well as cattle thrive upon them ; and when boiled pigs will eat them with skim milk. All around the country is beautiful and on the slopes of the homesteads are groves of the eucalyptus, the gum- tree of Australia. There are thousands of fine acres on this island that only need industry to mak^ them pay a settler a ten-fold reward for any privation or trouble he may have to bear at the beginning of his enterprise. On the south side of the island of Oahu, and six miles away from the main sierra, is Pearl Harbor. The en- trance to this harbor is seven miles west of Honolulu harbor, which, though very good, is in comparison a mere pocket in the fringing reef. Mr. S. E. Bishop describes this harbor in this way: "Pearl Harbor proper is ^n inland lake of nearly oval form, six miles by three, lying east and west. It is sep- arated from the ocean by a belt of coral lowland two and a half miles in breadth, together with a reef Vv^hich is one and a half miles more seaward. There are thus over- four miles between the harbor and the open sea. A 98 SOME OTHER ISLANDS AND TOWNS. passage of one-third mile in width connects the harbor A\ith the ocean. The outer end of the passage through the reef is at present obstructed by a sand bar. which can easily be removed by dredging in the same way that the entrance to Honolulu Harbor was dredged a few years ago. The map of Pearl Harbor thus resembles an oval fan, with the handle on the longer side. The oval lake is crossed from north to south by two low peninsulas and an island which divides it into four locks containing areas in all of about eight square miles- of water. "The northern or inland portions of these areas are shoal, owing to the wash of the uplands. Of the re- mainder about three square miles are from five to ten fathoms deep, admitting the largest ships. An equal area is from two to four fathoms. At several points th> water is from four to seven fathoms deep dose alongside of the low coral blufifs. Much of the deep water is in channels between such bluffs, from one-third to one mile wide." About Pearl River harbor are numbers of localities where several hundred of acres of level land can be se- cured close to deep water, and which would be most suit- able for a naval station. The climate is simply perfect, and the mild trade winds sweep across the country. The summer temperature is from 70 to 80 degrees, and the winter from 56 to 78 de- grees. There is scarcely any rain, except when there is a- gale from the south ; and a great storm endangering ships in the harbor is never known. Owing to the absence of humidity, malaria is an unknown quantity. SOME OTHER ISLANDS AND TOWNS. 99 On the west and north side are two very large sugar plantations. The water supplying these plantations is from artesian wells, and delivers nearly icx),ooo.ooo gal- lons daily. On the eastern peninsula is located a charm- ing sea-side resort. From the head of the entrance pass- age the open sea is four miles distant. A naval station could be built one or two miles inland and an enemy could not approach within six miles with safety. The entrance passage to the harbor being long and narrow, it renders protection very easy. A battery placed at the southern extremity of the western peninsula will protect the whole passage, and if placed on the shore two miles below would compel any enemy cruising outside to keep his distance. On account of the outer reef extending unbroken many miles each way, it forbids boats from landing any way except through the outer passage. Mr. Bishop states that "the naval and military officials who have thoroughly inspected the harbor agree that it is emi- nently safe as a naval station as well as otherwise per- fectly adapted for the purpose." Although Honolulu could not be protected from this point, it being too far away, it could be well defended from the Punch Bowl, which is right behind it. The greatest value of Pearl Harbor to the United States lies in the fact th^.t it is the only place capable of use as a naval station throughout two-thirds of the North Pacific, except on the American coast. Honolulu might perhaps be available, but much ex- pense v.'ould be needed for the excavations of the reef.. loo SOME OTHER ISLANDS AND TOWNS. and then again it is too near the open sea for security. For thousands of miles both west and south there are no enclosed harbors in any of the groups of islands. Now that the United States has Pearl Harbor, we pos- sess the complete monopoly and mastership of the Pacific Ocean, north of the Equator. From a naval point of view it is easily seen that Pearl Harbor is the prize jewel of the Hawaiian group. "It is the main element which perfects the incalculable strate- gic value of the group." If an enemy to the United States had possession of the Hawaiian Islands and Pearl H?rbor he would be within easy striking distance of the Pacific ports of the United States, and could at once kill all the commerce of these ports. Now that Pearl Harbor belongs to the United States an enemy has no coaling or supply station" near enough for ef^cient damage. This has been fully demonstrated by Captain Mahan and other American naval authorities. LILIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. CHAPTER VIII. QUEEN LrlLIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. In 1875 ^ reciprocity treaty was negotiated with the United States, under which sugar grown in the Hawaiian islands was admitted to this country free of duty. This stimulated the production of sugar enormously, until the amount of the duty remitted on Hawaiian sugar reached $5,000,000 a year. American capital flowed into the country, and all the lands suitable for growing the sugar cane passed into the hands of foreigners. The native^ Hawaiians, though more vigorous, intelligent and in- dustrious than other Polynesians, were not employed by the new owners, who introduced the system of contract labor. Being unable to supply themselves from the Poly- nesian islands, they imported Chinese coolies and Japanese under treaties with their governments, and also Portuguese from the Azores and Madeira. The early planters employed the natives as laborers, and lived among them on their estates, which earned but moderate and precaHous profits. After reciprocity the estates were converted into joint stock companies, and influences were brought to bear on the King, who was Kalakaua, and the Legislature, to remove the restrictions on Chinese immigration, and introduce the kind of semi- slavery known as the contract-labor system. 102 LILIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. Between 1876 and 1877 the immigration was 39,926, in- cluding 23,268 Chinese, ^^'jy'j Japanese and 10,216 Portuguese. The missionaries whose sagacious and unselfish coun- sels gave an enlightened political system to the country, and fostered civilized acts and customs, industry, com- merce, education, religion and justice, were succeeded by more selfish and ambitious statesmen. Their children, accomplished men of afifairs, now reaped rich benefits from the tide of prosperity which flooded the country. King Kalakaua revived sorcery, removed the ban from the sale of liquor, and so instigated race hatred that dis- trust of the leaders permeated native society, and became acute when the natives found themselves left compara- tively destitute amid the sudden expansion of national wealth, of which the thrifty among the Portuguese, the Chinese and the Japanese settlers obtained a share, while the natives alone were excluded. From this cause a native party sprang up, crying, "Hawaii for the Hawaiians," and disgraced foreign in- triguers against American influence. Speculators, more unscrupulous than any in the mis- sionary party, leagued themselves with the malcontents when they saw that the majority of the electorate and the King sympathized with the movement. At last, in 1883, there was an absolute majority of the native party in the Assembly, and the King cut loose from the missionaries, and appointed an American, ^Ir. W. M. Gibson, as Premier, and three natives to the othc: posts in the Cabinet. ^~ ULIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. 103 The new Government was composed chiefly of whites, who were wiUing to carry out behests that had become infamous. In 1887, having matured their arrangements by means of a secret political society, and raised and trained a large body of volunteers, the Americans, joined by the better class of natives and foreigners of every nationality, marched upon the palace. The King and his prime ministers had begun too late their measures for defense. Not trusting the loyalty of the regular troops, nor the efficiency of the raw native militia, Kalakaua discreetly submitted to the demands of the revolutionists, that he should appoint a Prime Minister of their choice, and pro- claim a new constitution that they had draughted. Conspiracies and intrigues for the restoration of ab- solutism were constant, and were aided by the King's sister, Liliuokalani. When the reciprocity convention with the United States was renewed in 1887, ^ supplementary section con- veyed to the United States the right to use Pearl Harbor, in the island of Oahu, as a coaling and repair station for vessels. To make this harbor, which, is capacious, avail- able for the purpose, it was necessary to cut a channel through the coral reef at its entrance — an operation which has cost the United States $40,000. The United States then had the exclusive use of Pearl Harbor. In 1887, when the American party was again firmly established in authority, members of the native party, secretly encouraged by the King and his sister, Liliuo- I04 LILIUOKAIvANI AND THE REVOLUTION. kalani, attempted a counter revolution for the purpose of restoring the old constitution. On July 2d of that year they seized the palace and Government 'buildings, forti- fied them, and planted artillery, but could not use the guns effectively, and were no match for the trained white militia, who without the loss of a man captured the build- ings and drove out the defenders, killing seven, and wounding twelve. The King died in 1891, and he was succeeded by his sister, Liliuokalani. Her heiress pre- sumptive was' Princess Kaiulani, born October i6th, 1875, the daughter of the Queen's deceased younger sis- ter, and Mr. A. S. Cleghorn, a Scotchman, who was Gov- ernor of Oahu, aftier the death of the Queen's husband, Mr. Dominis. Queen Liliuokalani was born near the city of Hono- lulu, September 2d, 1838. Her father's name was Ka- paakea, and her mother's Keohokal 114 WLIUOKAIvANI AND THE REVOLUTION. Louisiana. Minister Stevens denounced the act as a di- rect attack on the United States Government. A meeting of nearly one hundred citizens took place in the office of Mr. W. O. Smith on the afternoon of Jan. 14. The Queen's ministers, Colburn and Peterson, were present, and the former counseled armed resistance to the revolutionary purpose of the Queen, which she had not yet been persuaded to abandon or defer. These citi- zens appointed a committee of public safety, composed of thirteen members, to consider the situation and devise ways and means for the maintenance of the public peace and the protection of life and property. The committee decided to depose the Queen and establish a provisional government. On the following morning Colburn and Peterson were invited to take charge of it; but the ministers, who had meanwhile induced the Queen to recede from her pur- pose, declined. The committee resolved to abrogate the monarchy and treat for the annexation of the islands to the United States. On the afternoon of Jan. 16 two mass meetings w^ere held, one by the supporters of the Committee of Safety, and one by the friends of the Government. The former voted the following resolution : . "We do hereby ratify and appoint and indorse the ac- tion taken and report made by the said Committee of Safety, and we do hereby further empower such commit- tee to further consider the situation and further devise such ways and means as may be necessary to secure the LILIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. 115 permanent maintenance of law and order, and the pro- tection of life, liberty and property in Hawaii." At the other meeting it was resolved as follows : *'That the assurance of Her Majesty contained in this day's proclamation is accepted by the people as a satisfactory guarantee that the Government does not and will not seek any modification of the constitution by any other means than those provided in the organic law." Before the first meeting Marshal Wilson, the head of the police, went to the Committee of Safety and demand- ed that the meeting should not be held, promising at the same time that the Queen would not issue a new consti- tution, even if he had to use force to prevent her. Mr. Thurston declined to accept such a guarantee and said that the Americans would stand it no longer, and pur- posed settling the matter once and for all. Wilson re- ported this to the Cabinet, and advised arresting the committee, but the Cabinet refused to allow it. After the adjournment of the first meeting the Committee of Safe- ty sent a petition for protection to the United States minister, who had arrived on the man-of-war "Boston" from another part of the island on Saturday. It was worded thus : "We, the undersigned citizens and residents of Hono- lulu, respectfully represent that, in view of recent events in this kingdom, culminating in the revolutionary acts of Queen Liliuokalani on Saturday past, the public safety is menaced, and lives and property are in peril, and we appeal to you and the United States forces at your com- mand for assistance. The Queen, with the aid of armed ii6 LILIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. force, and accompanied by threats of violence and blood- shed from those with whom she was acting, attempted to proclaim a' new constitution, and while prevented for the time from accomplishing her object, declared pubhcly that she would only defer her action. "This conduct and action were upon an occasion and under circumstances which have created general alarm and terror. "We are unable to protect ourselves without aid, and therefore pray for the protection of the United States forces." Minister Stevens addressed a written request to Cap- tain Gilbert C. Wiltse of the "Boston," and commander of the American naval force, as follows : "In view of the existing critical circumstances in Hon- olulu, indicating an inadequate legal force, I request you to land marines and sailors from the ship under your command for the protection of the United States lega- tion and the United States consulate, and to secure the safety of American life and property." Captain Wiltse ordered a detachment of marines to land, under the command of Lieut. Com. Swinburne, to whom he gave these instructions : "You will talce command of the battalion and land in Honolulu for the purpose of protecting our legation, and the lives and property of American citizens, and to assist in the preservation of public order. Great prudence must be exercised by both officers and men, and no action taken that is not fully warranted by the condition of af- fairs, and by the conduct of those who may be inimical LILIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. 117 to the treaty rights of American citizens. You will in- form me at the earliest possible moment of any change in the situation." The Committee of Safety felt they had been hasty in asking for the intervention of United States troops and sent a committee to Minister Stevens asking him to de- lay the landing of the men. But the troops, of 160 men. had already landed. Some were accommodated at the American legation, and some at the consulate. Finally Arion Hall was secured for them. \\'hen Mr. Thurston and two other delegates of the Committee of Safety told Minister Stevens that they were not prepared to have the troops land so soon, he said to them : ''Gentlemen, the troops of the 'Boston* landed at five o'clock this afternoon, whether you are ready or not." The Queen's Minister of Foreign Affairs sent this pro- test to Minister Stevens : "I have the honor to inform your excellency that the troops from the United States steamer 'Boston' were landed in this port at five o'clock this evening without the request or knowledge of Her Majesty's Government. As the situation is one which does not call for interfer- ence on the part of the United States Government, my colleagues and myself would most respectfully request of your excellency the authorship upon which this action was taken. I would also add that any protection that may have been considered necessary for the American legation, or for American property and interests, would Ii8 LILIUOKALANl AND THE RKVOLUTICN. have been cheerfully furnished by Her Majesty's Govern- ment." Another protest came from the Governor of the island, who wrote : "It is my duty to solemnly protest to your excellency against the landing- this evening, without permission from the proper authorities, of an armed force from the United States ship 'Boston.' "Your excellency well knows that when you have de- sired to land naval forces of the United States for the purpose of drill, permission by the local authorities has been readily accorded. On the present occasion, how- ever, the circumstances are entirely different, and os- tensibly the present landing is for the discharge of func- tions which are distinctly responsible duties of the Ha- waiian Government. "Such being the case, I am compelled to impress upon your excellency the international questions involved in this matter, and the grave responsibilities thereby as-' sumed." Mr. Stevens on the following day sent this answer to Mr. Parker: "Yours of yesterday in regard to the landing of the United States naval forces in Honolulu duly received and its import considered. "In whatever the United States diplomatic and naval representatives have done, or may do, at this critical hour of Hawaiian afifairs, we will be guided by the kindest views and feelings for all parties concerned, and by the ULIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. 119 warmest sentiments for the Hawaiian people, and the persons of all nationalities." In answer Mr. Cleghorn wrote: "My responsibility as the United States minister pleni- potentiary at this critical time in Hawaiian affairs it is impossible for me to ignore. I assure you that whatever responsibility the American diplomatic and naval repre- sentatives have assumed or may assume, we shall do our utmost to regard the welfare of all concerned.'' The Queen on the 17th addressed the following com- munication to Minister Stevens, which was counter- signed by all the ministers : "The assurance conveyed by a royal proclamation by myself and ministers yesterday having been received by my native subjects and by them ratified at a mass meet- ing was received in a different spirit by the meeting rep- resenting the foreign population and interests in my kingdom. It is now my desire to give to your excellency, as the diplomatic representative of the United States of America at my court, the solemn assurance that the pres- ent constitution will be upheld and maintained by me and my ministers, and no changes will be made except by the method therein provided. It is now my desire to express to your excellency this assurance in the spirit of that friendship which has ever existed between my kingdom and that of the Government of the United States of America, and which I trust will long continue." An hour after this had been delivered to the American Minister the members of the Queen's Cabinet called on him to ask him to assist the authorized Government in I20 LILIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION„ suppressing the revolt, or, if he did not wish to do that, to remove the United States troops back on board the "Boston," as the Government had ample forces. He an- swered that the troops were there for the specific pur- pose of protecting American life and property, and would not take sides either with the monarchy or those who were creating a new government. The minister and naval commander in landing troops without the request and keeping them on shore against the protests of the established authorities acted on stand- ing instructions first issued by Secretary of State Bayard and the Secretary of the Navy in 1887, according to which American troops should be landed in Hawaii when necessary for the protection of American life and prop- erty, and for the preservation of public order. The Committee of Safety met that evening and organ-, ized a provisional government, and Mr. Smith read a proclamation endmg with this declaration : "We, citizens and residents of the Hawaiian Islands, organized and acting for the public safety and the com- mon good, hereby proclaim as follows : "The Hawaiian monarchical system of government is hereby abrogated. "A provisional government for the control and man- agement of public affairs and the protection of the pub- lic peace is hereby established, to exist until terms of union with the United States of America have been ne-i gotiated and agreed upon." After the reading of this proclamation Minister Stev- ens, having sent his aid, and Captain Wiltse an officer to LILIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. 121 examine the Government building and see if the provis- ional government was in actual possession, formally rec- ognized the Provisional Government as the de facto Gov- ernment of the country. In regard to this resolution, Mr. Stevens says : "When Captain W'iltse and myself on the ''Boston" arrived in the harbor of Honolulu on the forenoon of Jan. 14, I was completely taken by surprise at what the Queen, the palace associates, and the lottery gang had accomplished in ten days. The remonstrances of the Chamber of Commerce of the numerous petitions of some of the best people of the island, both whites and natives, and the earnest pleadings of those who had pre- viously adhered to the monarchy, had been defiantly dis- regarded. I found the city in great excitement, and learned that for many hours there had been an anxious desire for the return of the "Boston," and this desire was strong among the thoughtful supporters of the monarchy as well as among the great body of the responsible citi- zens. The surging, irresistible tide of revolution was then obvious to all persons not willfully blind. Without sleep for two days and nights on the "Boston," without stopping to change dress, as soon as possible I sought to co-operate with the English Minister to get access to the Queen and to try by friendly advice to avert the revo- lution. It was too late ; the mob of royal retainers were already gathering at the palace to aid the Queen to carry out her plan of overturning the constitution." Sanford B. Dole, the President of the Provisional Gov- 122 LILIUOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. ernment, requested that the United States troops should preserve order, saying: "We have conferred with the ministers of the late Gov- ernment, and have made demand upon the Marshal to surrender the Station House. We are not yet actually in possession of the Station House, but as night is ap- proaching and our forces may be insufficient to maintain order, we request the immediate support of the United States forces, and would request that the commander of the United States forces take command of our military forces, so that they may act together for the protection of the city." It is claimed that the Queen had a well-armed force of seven hundred men, headed by her favorite, Wilson. But Minister Stevens says : "The representation that Wilson had sufficient force in the limited area of the Police Station to sustain the monarchy is notoriously absurd to all honest persons acquainted with the facts. If the Queen had this force, why had it not been exerted while the outraged people were openly holding their great mass meeting and mak- ing their arrangements for the establishment of a new Government? Why did Wilson and his so-called force wait until the outraged citizens gathered with their rifles and bottled them up in the Police Station House? Why did the Queen's representatives call at the United States Legation on the 17th and ask the aid of the United States forces to support her? The Station House and P)arracks were still in the pos- session of the Queen's forces. When a demand was LIIvIUOKALAXI AND THE REVOLUTION. 123 . made that Marshal Wilson should surrender the build- ing, arms and ammunition, and disband his force, he re- fused to do so, except upon the written command of the Queen. The order was prepared, and the Queen's signa- ture obtained, and when this was taken to Wilson he sur- rendered the Station House and Barracks about half past seven o'clock. After the surrender of the Queen's Government the Provisional Government was formally recognized as the existing de facto Government within two or three days by the French, Portuguese, British and Japanese repre- sentatives. Minister Stevens and Captain Wiltse decided to estab- lish a protectorate ouer the Hawaiian Islands, and when the fiag of the United States was raised at nine o'clock on Feb. I the United States Minister issued this proclama- tion to the people : "At the request of the Provisional Government of the Hawaiian Islands, I hereby, in the name of the United States of America, assume protection of the Hawaiian Islands for the protection of life and property, and occu- pation of public buildings and Hawaiian soil, so far as may be necessary for the purpose specified, but not in- terfering with the administration of public affairs by the Provisional Government. This action is taken pending and subject to negotiations at Washington." Early in the morning a force of United States marines was drawn up before the Government building, and after the flag was hoisted over it the proclamation was publicly 124 LILIUOKAIvANI AND THE REVOLUTION. read. In a dispatch announcing the assertion of a pro- tectorate, Minister Stevens said: **The Hawaiian pear is now fully ripe, and this is the golden hour for the United States to pluck it." On the receipt of his dispatch Secretary Foster wrote Feb. II, disavowing the minister's action so far as it im- plied "the establishment of a protectorate, which is in fact the positive erection of a paramount authority over or in place of the duly constituted local Government, and the assumption by the protector of the especial respon- sibilities attached to such formal protection," or so far as it impaired "in any way the independent sovereignty of the Hawaiian Government by substituting the flag and the power of the United States as the symbol and mani- festation of paramount authority." The flag was kept flying and the American garrison maintained until after the Democratic Administration came into power at Washington. Captain Wiltse was recalled, and Rear Admiral Skerrett was ordered to Ha- waii by command of President Harrison. Secretary of the Navy Tracy told him before he took his departure that the Government would "be very glad to annex Ha- waii, but as a matter of course none but the ordinary legal means can be used to persuade these people to come into the United States." In Hawaii there was fear of British interference, and when the British cruiser "Garnet" arrived shortly after the American flag was hoisted, preparations were made for a defense. On Jan. 19 the Commissioners sailed on a specially chartered steamer for San Francisco, bringing the LIIvILOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. 125 draft of a treaty of annexation. The Queen's attor- ney, Paul Neumann, applied for passage on the same steamer, in order that he might present her case to the American Government, but it was refused. The Annexation Commissioners arrived in Washing- ton Feb. 3, and discussed the treaty with the Secretary of State. They had another interview on the nth, when the terms were practically agreed upon, and on the 14th the treaty was formally concluded. The treaty provided "that until Congress determines otherwise the existing laws of Hawaii will continue, sub- ject to the paramount authority of the United States. A resident Commissioner will be appointed with power to veto any act of the Government. Until the necessary legislation has been enacted the existing foreign and commercial relations will be continued. The further im- migration of Chinese will be prohibited, and the Chinese now in Hawaii will not be permitted to enter the United States. The United States will take over the public debt amounting to $3,250,000, and will pay an annual allow- ance of $20,000 to Queen Liliuokalani and a lump sum of $150,000 to Princess Kaiulani. The sugar producers will not take part in the bounty under the McKinley law im- less Congress so enacts." In accordance with international law treaties between countries exprre if either contracting party ceases to be an independent state. The treaties concluded by Hawaii therefore terminated upon annexation. Among the documents accompanying the treaty as it was submitted to Congress was a letter from the deposed 126 LILILOKALANI AND THE REVOLUTION. Queen to President Harrison, praying- that no action should be taken until her envoy could be heard. The treaty was laid before the Senate for its action on Feb. 15. President Harrison in his message submitting the treaty, which was based on the statement of facts em- bodied in a report of Secretary Foster, said : "It is deemed by the Government more desirable to annex the islands than to claim a protectorate over them The United States in no way promoted the overthrow of the monarchy, which originated in what seems to have been a reactionary revolution against the policy of Queen Liliuokalani, imperiling foreign interests. It is evident that the monarchy was efifete and that the Queen's Gov- ernment has been a prey to designing persons. The res- toration of the monarchy is undesirable, if not impossible. It is essential that none of the other great powers shall secure the islands, as this would be inconsistent with our safety and the peace of the world." In conclusion the message declared that no Govern- ment had protested against the projected annexation. Prompt action was desirable and legislation on the sub- ject should be characterized by great liberality and a high regard for the rights of natives and foreigners. THS ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. CHAPTER IX. THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. When President Cleveland assumed office he withdrew the treaty from the Senate for further consideration, ^larch ninth. The Hawaiian Commissioners returned to their country, all except Mr. Thurston, who, in May, was commissioned Hawaiian Minister at Washington, succeeding Mr. J. Mott Smith, who had been recalled. President Cleveland sent Mr. James H. Blount of Geor- gai to Hawaii as special commissioner to investigate mat- ters. Secretary Gresham gave him these instructions : "You will investigate and fully report to the President ciii the facts you can learn respecting the condition of af- fairs in the Hawaiian Islands, the causes of the revolution by which the Queen's Government was overthrown, the sentiment of ihe people toward existing authority, and in gcneial all that can fully enlighten the President touching the subject of your mission." Commissioner Blount arrived in Honolulu March 29. He declined receptions tendered both by the Hawaiian Patriotic League and the Annexation Club. Members of the American colony offered the American commis- sioner the use of a mansion with furniture, carriages, etc., 128 THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. which Minister Stevens strongly urged him to accept, but he preferred to remain at a hotel. On the day after his arrival he was introduced by Mr. Stevens to President Dole, and presented President Cleveland's letter to him. On the 31st Mr. P>lount gave notice to President Dole of his intention to terminate the American protectorate, and on April first the naval authorities hauled down the American flag and withdrew the garrison of marines to the ships. In the evening Mr. Stevens called on the commissioner to urge the necessity of keeping the troops on shore to prevent Japanese interference, as it was sus- pected that the Queen had arranged with the Japanese commissioner to have troops landed from the Japanese man-of-war ''Naniwa'' to reinstate her. The Japanese Commissioner, when he learned that the presence of the "Naniwa" had given rise to such a sug- gestion, requested his. Government to order the vessel away, and expressed regret to Mr. Blount that any one should charge that -the Empire of Japan, which had so' many reasons for valuing the friendship of the United States, should consent to offend that Government by en- tering into the conflicts of the Hawaiian Islands. Mr. Blount sent word May 4th that he felt a great ma- jority of the people on the island were opposed to annexa- tion. Mr. Stevens was recalled in May, and Mr. Blount was made minister plenipotentiary. Mr. Albert S. Willis of Kentucky, was appointed Minister to Hawaii to succeed Mr. Blount, who returned in August. THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 129 Secretary Gresham sent a confidential letter to Mr. Willis, drawn by the President from Mr. Blount's report, and his plan for reinstating the Queen by moral force under certain conditions. He says : "The Provisional Government was not established by the Hawaiian people or with their consent or acquies- cence; nor has it since existed with their consent. The Queen refused to surrender her powers to the Provisional Government until convinced that the Minister of the United States had recognized it as the de facto authority and would support and defend it with the military forces of the United States, and that resistance would precipi- tate a bloody conflict with the force. She was advised and assured by her ministers, and by the leaders of the movement for the overthrow of her Government, that if she surrendered under protest her case would afterward be fairly considered by the President of the United States. The Queen finally nicely yielded to the United States then quartered in Honolulu, relying upon the good faith and honor of the President, when informed of what had occurred, to undo the action of the Minister and reinstate her and the authority which she claimed as the constitu- tional sovereign of the Hawaiian Islands. The President has, therefore, determined that he will not send back to the Senate for its action thereon the treaty which he withdrew from that body for further conr ^sideration on the ninth day of March last. On your arrival at Honolulu you will take advantage of an early opportunity to inform the Queen of this deter- mination, making known to her the President's sincere 130 THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. regret that the reprehensible conduct of the American Minister, and the unauthorized presence on land of a military force of the United States, obliged her to sur- render her sovereignty for the time being, and rely on the justice of this Government to undo the flagrant wrong. You will, however, at the same time, inform the Queen that, when reinstated, the President expects that she will pursue a magnanimous course by granting full amnesty to all who participated in the movement against her, in- cluding persons who are or have been officially or other- wise connected with the Provisional Government, de- priving them of no right or privilege which they enjoyed^ before the so-called revolution. All obligations created by the Provisioal Government in due course of adminis- tration should be assumed. Having secured the Queen's agreement to pursue this wise and humane policy, which it is believed you will speedily obtain, you will then advise the Executive of the Provisional Government and his ministers of the President's determination of the question, which their action and those of the Queen devolved upon him, and that they are expected to promptly relincjuish to her her constitutional authority. Should the Queen decline to pursue the liberal course suggested, or should the Provisional Government refuse to abide by the President's decision, you will report the facts and await further directions." The Queen refused to accept the conditions laid down by President Cleveland, declaring th?t nothing but the THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 131 execution of the members of the Provisional Government and banishment of their famihes would be consented to, and Mr. \\'illis, therefore, had nothing to communicate to the Provisional Government. The Secretary of State telegraphed to the minister on Dec. third to require the Queen's unqualified agreement that the obligations assumed by the Provisional Govern- ment should be assumed, and on a pledge that there should be no prosecution or punishment of those setting up or supporting the Provisional Government. Should she ask whether, if she acceded to these conditions, active steps would be taken to effect her restoration or to main- tain her authority thereafter, the minister was to say that the President could not use force without the authority of Congress. Congress met the day after this dispatch was .sent to Minister Willis, and on December 18 President Cleveland sent a message to Congress in which he re- viewed the affair and gave his conclusions. The check that his plans had encountered in t'^ • Queen's refusal to accept the conditions imposed com- pelled President Cleveland to commend the subject to "the extended powers and wise discretion of Con?n'<^5s," with the assurance that he would "be much gratified to co-operate in any legislative plan which may be devised for the solution of the problem before us. which is con- sistent with American honor, integrity and morality.'' For some months after the refusal of the Provisional Government to yield up its authority to the Queen, the Native party in Hawaii remained quiet pnd patiently ex- pected the United States Government still to restore the 132 THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. old government. The Hawaiian natives suffered for want of food and grew restless and discontented. In the elec- tion for Senators and Representatives the American Union party won every seat in the Island of Oahu. The United States Government recognized the republic as soon as it was organized, and other powers gave it formal recognition in the course of the year. A royalist uprising that occurred in the environs of Honolulu on January 6. 1895, was quickly suppressed. Twelve insurgents were killed and five hundred taken prisoners. On the Government side C. L. Carter, late Commissioner of the United States, was killed. In one of the improvised forts thirty-six rifles, with ammunition, and two dynamite bombs were found. A second fight occurred January 9 in the Manon valley, in which several insurgents were slain. Among seventy persons arrested for complicity in the attempted rebellion, ten were Ameri- can citizens and ten British subjects. The leaders in the uprising were Samuel Nowlein. formerly colonel of the Queen's body guard, and Robert Wilcox, who directed the uprising of 1887. Ex-Queen Liliuokalani was arrested on January 16 and imprisoned on the charge of complicity in the insurrec- tion. On January 24 she sent a letter to Minister Dole, in the hope of obtaining clemency for the misguided Ha- waiians and others who had engaged in a rebellion for her restoration, but asked no indulgence for herself, and solemnly renounced all her claims to the throne and ab- solved her former subjects from all allegiance to herself and her heirs and successors, declaring her intention to THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 133 live henceforth in absolute privacy and retirement from public affairs, and offered to take an oath to support the republic and never encourage or assist, directly or indi- rectly, in the restoration of a monarchical form of gov- ernment. , Attorney-Gcrjeral Smith accepted the renunciation of sovereign rights and oath of allegiance on the under- standing that the ex-Queen was in no degree exempt from liability to punishment for complicity in the rebel- lion, and with the reservation that her sovereign rights ceased to exist on January 24. 1893, when she refused to be longer bound by the fundamental law. He also promised to give full consideration to her unselfish appeal for clemency for those who took part in the insurrection. Liliuokalani, in speaking of the sentence imposed upon her, writes : "At two o'clock on the afternoon of the 27th of February I was again called into court and sentence passed upon me. It was the extreme penalty for 'mis- prision of treason' — a fine of $5,000 and imprisonment at hard labor for five years. I need not add that it was never executed, and that it was probably no part of the inten- tion of the government to execute it, except, perhaps, in some future contingency. Its sole present purpose was to terrorize the native people and to humiliate me. After Major Potter had read to me my sentence, and carefully pocketed the paper on which it was written, together with the other papers in the case (I might have valued them as souvenirs), I was conducted back to my place of confinement." The Ex-Queen was not allowed to have newspapers or 134 THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. any general literature to read; but writing paper and pencils were given to her, and during her confinement she composed and translated a number of songs, one being the "Aloha Oe," or "Farewell to Thee." •In 1895 ^" epidemic broke out on the island, said to be a form of Asiatic cholera. Many deaths resulted from it, and it was three months before normal conditions were restored. The ex-Queen goes on to relate that "on the sixth of Septem.ber, about eight months after my arrest, I was notified by Colonel McLean that he was no longer re- sponsible for my custody, and that at three o'clock that afternoon I might leave the palace. A carriage was called, and I was driven from the doors of the beautiful edifice which they now style Executive Building, and was assured that I was under no further restraint. My par- don, as it was called, arrived at a later day. All the inter- vening time I was supposed to be under parole, and could have been arrested and recommitted at any moment. . . . On the following morning Mr. Wilson informed me that I had been released only on parole, and had been placed in his charge by President Dole." On the sixth of February, 1896, the ex-Queen received her release from parole as prisoner, but was forbidden to leave the island of Oahu. Some days later, in company with some friends, she went to Waialua, where she passed two weeks. In October the ex-Queen received her full release, and, wishing a complete change of scene, she de- termined to go abroad. Her first destination was Cali- fornia, and from there she went to Boston, where she THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 135 passed a few weeks, and was entertained quite extensively. On the 226. of January Liliuokalani went to Washington and had an interview with President Cleveland. She made a trip to New York, and returned to Washington in time to be present at the inaugural ceremonies of Presi- dent McKinley. President McKinley was inaugurated March 4th, 1897. Shortly after the Hawaiian Commissioners again ap- peared in Washington, and an annexation treaty was signed, which was sent to the Senate for ratification. In his message submitting the treaty to the Senate, President McKinley said : "This is not really annexation, but a continuance of the existing relations, with closer bonds, betv/een people closely related by blood and kindred ties. At the time a tripartite agreement was made for Samoa, Great Britain and Germany wanted to include the Hawaiian group, but the United States rejected the suggestion, because it held that there already existed relations between Hawaii and the United States, placing the former under the especial care of the United States, which will not allow any other country to interfere in the annexation of Hawaii and the making of the islands part of the United States, in accord- ance with its established treaty." The New York "Sun," in speaking of the terms upon which Hawaii was to be annexed, says the treaty corre- sponds in some respect to the Dominican precedent: "We refer to the stipulation for continuing the existing machinery of Governm.cnt and the municipal legislation in the Hawaiian Islands until provision shall be made by 136 THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. Congress for the government of the newly incorporated domain. Only such Hawaiian laws, however, are to be thus provisionally continued in force as were not enacted for the fulfillment of distinguished treaties, and as are not incompatible with the Constitution, laws or treaties of the United States." The five commissioners to be appointed by the Presi- dent, of whom two are to be residents of the Hawaiian Islands, are not, as has been taken for granted in some quarters, to be intrusted, necessarily, with executive func- tions. Their specific duty, as defined by the treaty itself, is the recommendation to Congress of such laws concern- ing the newly acquired territory as they shall deem neces- sary or proper. To such advisory functions, however, administrative powers may be added by the President, at his discretion, for the third article of the treaty provides that, until Congress shall arrange for the government of the island, all the civil, judicial and military powers exer- cised by the officers of the existing Honolulu Govern- ment shall be vested in such a way as the President of the United States shall direct. That is to say, Mr. McKinley may either allow the Hawaiian officials to retain t!TeTr posts or he may replace them by American citizens. Minister Dole, of Hawaii, visited Washington, and created a very favorable impression at the White House and in official service, and he left that city with the assur- ance that the Republican Administration would settle the Hawaiian question. April 2 1 St war broke out between the United States and Spain, and it brought very suddenly the importance of THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 137 having Hawaii in our possession, and on Thursday even- ing, July 7th, 1898, President McKinley approved the Hawaiian annexation. On the 1 6th of August, 1898, the American flag was raised in Hawaii by Rear-Admiral Miller, of the Pacific coast. The New York '*Sun" gives the following inter- esting description of the event : "America has garnered the first fruits of the Spanish war. It was the echo of Dewey's guns that was heard in Honolulu on August 12th, when one flag went down amid a roar of saluting cannon and another went up to take ^ its place. The sight was most impressive, not because of the size of the crowd, for it was not large ; not for tumult, for there was little noise ; not for length of ceremonial, for the exercises were as simple as they should be when one republic absorbs another, but because one nationality was snuffed out like a spent candle, and another was set in its place. It was but another roll of the Juggernaut car in which the lordly Anglo-Saxon rides to his dream of universal empire. It was not as joyous an occasion as far off America may imagine. When it was over, women who wore the American emblem wiped their eyes, and men who have been strong for annexation said, with a throb in the throat, 'How sad it was !' "As for Hawaiians, they were not there. It was self- denial on their part, for the Kanaka dearly loves a crowd and that invisible fluid that floats from man to man and which we call excitement, but on this day of days the Hawaiians were closely housed. They were not on the streets, they were not at the stores. They were shut up 138 THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. in their houses, and from the Queen's stately home to the meanest shed, the open windows and closed shutters were lonely and sombre as places of death. Those who were obliged to be abroad slipped by through back streets and narrow lanes. They wore on their hats the twisted golden ilima that tells of love of royalty, or on their breasts Hawaiian flags and badges. So few Hawaiians were in front of the Executive Building that it might have been almost any capital except Honolulu. There were Americans, Portuguese. Japanese, Chinese in numbers, but no Hawaiians. About the ceremonies there was all the tension of an execution. It was more funeral than fete, more a solemn ceremony than a gay event. There was something fine and strong in the restraint the annexa- tionists put upon themselves in the hour of their triumph. There was little of blowing of horns and . tooting of whistles. Only one man drove about in a carriage groan- ing under a load of red, white and blue, and he was not an American, but a Greek. "There was absolutely no speechmaking, except a few dignified words from Minister Sewall; no spread-eagle- ism ; no procession and no cheering. "There were six Hawaiians on the platform reserved for distinguished folk, where diplomats and Cabinet ladies and Ministers' wives were seated in order of their husbands' prominence. One of these native women is the wife of a prominent native lawyer and politician. He came for business reasons, and she came because he re- quired her to. In facial characteristics she is not unlike the ex-Queen, and many people mistook her for Liliuo- THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 139 kalani. She came in on her husband's arm, very proud and dignified and stately, in a floating holoku of black and violet, her hat plumed with royal yellow. She held her head very high among her lighter neighbors, and she bore up very well until the Hawaiian band began to play 'Hawaii Ponol' for the last time as the national anthem. Then she covered her eyes with her fan and wept. She did not raise her eyes again and she did not see the Ha- waiian flag as it floated and then sank for the last time. Other natives who were forced to be there covered their eyes, ai'd an old woman who stood near never moved her eyes from the flag as it dropped, but a rain of tears fell on her cheeks. Hawaiians in the ranks of the National Guard covered their faces and fixed their eyes on the ground. When 'Hawaii Panol,' which means 'Our rery own Hawaii,' came to be played it was a w^eakly strain, for all the natives had throw^n away their instruments and had fled round a corner, out of sight. Only ten men, none of them Hawaiians. were left to play. Men had begged their leader to be relieved from playing what was to them a dirge, and he had consented. "The day began with heavy showers and threatening clouds. At 10 o'clock the Hawaiian National Guard f*)rmed at the barracks preparatory to escorting the Phil- adelphia's men from their pier to the Executive Building. The men were in fresh white duck, with brown leggings and blue coats, and as Colonel Fisher reviewed them for the last time as an organization they presented a fine ap- pearance. The Hawaiian Color Sergeant carried a flag hound w^ith golden lei. There was a touch of that comedy I40 THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. which lights tragedy's face when the National Guard marched down to meet and escort the Philadelphia's men. The Guard marched well. They were preceded by a corps of police officers, most of them natives, with the same rotundity which characterizes the peace officer all over the world. These men seldom march and never drill, and when ordered to stand in line they did not know whether to make the line at their toes or their belts. The orders were as amusing as the marching. '* 'All ready there ?' sung out the military officer. The policemen nodded sagely. " 'Well, go ahead then,' yelled the officer. They 'went ahead.' ''The Philadelphia's men are raw recruits, who had never seen each other a month ago, but as their officers refrained from attempting any difficult evolutions, they appeared as veterans beside these men. "Long before the military procession reached the Executive Building a crowd was gathered through the 'makai' gates, opened to receive it. The scene of the flag raising, christened 'lolani Palace,' dates from the times of Kalakaua, and is a beautiful building planned on noble and stately lines, and set in a square of dense tropical shade, cut out in four avenues, which are bordered by stems of gray and green royal palms and lead up to four great doors. On 'Mauka' side, that is toward the moun- tain, the stand had been built, upon which one of the most impressive ceremonies of the century was soon to take place, the ceremony of making a foreign territory Ameri- THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 141 can soil, and of adopting thousands of people wliose lan- guage is not our language, nor their ways our ways. "The people who flooded in through the gates were of all classes. The moderately rich came in hacks and the very wealthy in their own carriages, with many on foot, in democratic fashion. On the lawn, in the shade of the royal palms, under the leaves of mango and papaya trees, where scarlet hibiscus tossed its flaming blossoms, seats had been erected on the soft, natural sward. While the morning was yet cool. Chinese women, with little almond- eyed babies, and Portugese women, with children in arms, their eyes black as sloes, came and preempted these seats, which were outside the rope. Special guests were admitted through the lower hall of the great stone build- ing. It was a tremendous task to seat these special guests. Many seats on both upper and lower balcony were reserved merely for first comers, but beyond, in the stand, representatives of the Foreign Office, literally buried beneath gold braid and brass fringes, had a dread- ful time seating dignitaries of the little republic whose minutes are numbered. "They have always been sticklers for precedence in Hawaii. Perhaps it is a legacy from their recent mon- arcliy. but at any rate one must be up in the peerage in order to seat a dinner party correctly in Honolulu. All these rules were strictly adhered to on this last but one public appearance of the tiny court of the island republic. The gor.q-eous officials of the Foreign Office acted as ushers. The platform, decorated with entwined Hawaiian and American flags without, was divided into halves 142 THE ANNHXATION OF HAWAII. within. The front row of seats on one side was left vacant for President Dole and his Cabinet ; that on the other for Minister Scvvall, Admiral Miller and his staflf. Beside each gentleman sat a lady of corresponding rank. The wife of the President had the place of honor on one side and the wife of Minister Sewall had the same place on the other side. Next to Mrs. Dole, in her black frock and • black and white bonnet, came Cabinet ladies, and behind them wives of Ministers and ex-Ministers seated next their husbands, and then foreign diplomats and consuls and their wives. About the last to come on the platform, which was a kaleidoscope of gay colors, plentifully mixed with the white of the tropics, were several native gentle- men and ladies. The men were all politicians, men who could not afford to stay away. There was Mr. Koulakou, Speaker of the last Hawaiian House of Representatives, Councillor of State Kane and his wife and Circuit Judge Kalaua. Martial music, blowing through the trees, an- nounced the coming of the National Guard of Haw^aii. Preceded by the Government band they came through 'Mauka' gate with the Hawaiian flag floating and the band playing Hawaiian music. Behind them were the bluejackets of the Philadelphia, as American in looks as the guard is foreign. Separated from the Philadelphia's men, walking apart, were three men from the Philadel- phia, with a great roll in their arms. This prosaic-look- ing bundle was the American flag, soon to be raised. The avenue of palms was full of rows of sailors in blue and white. The spaces to the side were crowded with soldiers with brown faces. THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 143 "At 11.45 President Dole and his Cabinet entered, everybody standing as they came on the platform. The President was well dressed and his face was grave. The men of his Cabinet were not all so correctly garbed. The President and his best men were followed immediately by Minister Sewall, Admiral Miller and his stafT. Just at this time a gentle rain was falling — 'liquid shine' they call it in Hawaii — and the sense of oppression was great as the atmosphere became heavier and less easy to breathe. "The Rev. G. L. Pearson of the First Methodist Church was the man chosen to make the last prayer of the missionary government. He prayed for Hawaii Nei, and especially for her native sons and daughters. During the prayer every one on the platform stood, Minister Sewall fingering restlessly and unconsciously a large blue en- velope of ofificial appearance which he held under his arm. "Mr. Sewall is a little man with beetling brow, but he stood very straight for the occasion, and his voice was the only one that carried. Facing the President, who had risen, Mr. Sewall said in a voice that flickered for a mo- ment and then blazed out with renewed strength : " 'Mr. President, I present you a certified copy of a joint resolution of the Congress of the United States, approved by the President July 7, 1898, entitled, "Joint resolution to provide for annexation of the Hawaiian Islands to the United States." This joint resolution ac- cepts, ratifies and confirms on the part of the United 144 THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. States the cession formally consented to and approved by the republic of Hawaii.' "The square blue envelope went under President Dole's arm and that gentleman replied : " 'A treaty of political union having been made, and cession formally consented to by the republic of Hawaii, having been accepted by the United States of America, I now, in the interest of the Hawaiian body politic, and with full confidence in the honor, justice, and friendship of the American people, yield up to you, as representative of the Government of the United States, the sovereignty and public property of the Hawaiian Islands.' "Mr. Sewall's reply was : "'Mr. President: In the name of the United States I accept the transfer of the sovereignty and property of the Hawaiian Government. The Admiral commanding the United States naval forces in these waters will proceed to perform the duty intrusted to him." "By this time it lacked but six minutes of 12, and faint, quavering strains of TIawaii PonoF were heard coming up with but half their usual volume. "President Dole made a signal to Col. Soper, who waved a white handkerchief to some one in the crowd. The troops presented arms, and far away was heard the boom of the Philadelphia's salute and the nearer tremble of the Hawaiian battery. There were twenty-one guns, the last national salute to the Hawaiian flag. Before the salute there was vigorous wig-wagging of signal flags from the central tower, upon which, as well as upon side towers, men had been posted all the morning. Bugles THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 145 rose and fell at last in melancholy 'taps,' and while every one held his breath, the beautiful flag of Hawaii shud- dered for an instant, then started and slowly sank to the ground, where it was caught and folded. "Just as It started in its descent the clouds broke and a square of blue sky showed itself. Every man within sound of the saluting guns uncovered, and far away at the water front Kanaka boatmen plying their trade bared and bowed their heads, the Admiral nodded to Lieut. Winterhalter, who gave the order 'Colors roll ofif,' and cheery American bugles cut the air. Then the well-loved strains of 'The Star Spangled Banner' came from the Philadelphia's band and the flag commenced its ascent. It was an immense piece of bunting, what is known in navy parlance as a 'number one regulation.' It was thirty feet long and eighteen feet wide, and as it went up the halyards it seemed to cover entirely the front of the building. Almost simultaneously smaller flags were run to their places on the side towers and again was heard the salute of the guns to the new sovereignty. The Con- tral flag' was so immense that it hung limp and lifeless for a moment. Then it caught the breath of a passing breeze and flung itself wide. Then for the first time there was a cheer from the places where sat America's new citizens of alien blood. "Then came the reading of the proclamation by Min- ister Sewall. Briefly, as previously indicated, the proclamation provides that the civil, judicial and military powers in Hawaii shall be exercised by the officers of the republic of Hawaii as it existed just previous to the trans- 146 THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. fer of the sovereignty, subject to the Governor's power to remove such officials and to fill vacancies. All such officers will be required at once to take the oath of al- legiance to the United States and all military forces will be required to renew their bonds to the Government of the United States. This was all. There was no tremen- dous political surprise. No chopping off of official heads. Burr followed Mr. Sewall, and congratulated his hearers as fellow countrymen on the consummation of the na- tional poHcies of the two countries." William O. Smith, the* Attorney-General, went to Washington in February, 1897, to open negotiations in conjunction with the Hawaiian Minister for a new treaty of annexation. Subsequently Lorin A. Thurston and William A. Kinney were associated with the Hawaiian Minister, Francis M. Hatch, and on June 16, Secretary Sherman signed for the United States a treaty with these plenipotentiaries. The preamble of the treaty states that the United States and the Republic of Hawaii, in view of the natural de- pendence of the Hawaiian Islands upon the United States, of their geographical proximity thereto, of the preponder- ant share acquired by the United States and its citizens in the industries and trade, of said islands, and of the ex- pressed desire of the Government of Hawaii that those islands should be incorporated into the United States as an integral part thereof and under its sovereignty, have determined to accomplish by treaty an object so Im- portant to their mutual and permanent welfare. By the first article the Republic of Hawaii cedes, abso- THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 147 lutely and without reserve, to the United States, allrights of sovereignty of whatever kind in and over the Hawaiian Islands, and their dependencies ; and it is agreed that all the territory of and appertaining to the Republic of Ha- waii is hereby annexed to the United States of America under the name of the Territory of Hawaii. In the second article the Republic of Hawaii cedes and transfers to the United States the absolute fee and owner- ship of all public, Government and crovvn lands, public buildings or edifices, ports, harbors, military equipments and all other public property, with the promise that the existing laws of the United States relative to public lands shall not apply to such lands in the Hawaiian Islands, but the Congress of the United States shall enact especial laws for their management and disposition, all revenue from or proceeds of the same (except such part thereof as may be used for the civil, military, or naval purposes of the United States), to be used solely for the benefit of the in- habitants of the Hawaiian Islands for educational and other public purposes. In the third article it is stipulated that, until Congress shall provide for the government of the islands, all the civil, judicial and military powers exercised by the officers of the existing Government shall be vested in such per- sons, and exercised in such manner as the President of the United States shall direct, and the President shall have power to remove said officers and fill the vacancies so oc- casioned : also that the existing treaties of the Hawaiian Islands with foreign nations shall cease and determine, being replaced by such treaties as may exist or may 148 THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. hereafter be concluded between the United States and such foreign nations, but that the municipal legislation of the Hawaiian Islands, not enacted for the fulfillment of the treaties so extinguished and not inconsistent with this treaty nor contrary to the Constitution of the United States nor any existing treaty of the United States, shall remain in force until the Congress of the United States shall otherwise determine, and until legislation shall be enacted extending the United States customs laws and regulations to the Hawaiian Islands, the existing customs relations of the Hawaiian Islands with the United States and other countries shall remain unchanged. By Article IV. the public debt of the Republic of Ha- waii lawfully existing at the date of the exchange of rati- fications, including the amounts due to depositors in the postal savings bank, is assumed by the Government of the United States, but the liability of the United States in this regard shall in no case exceed $4,000,000, and the existing Government, so long as it is maintained, and the present comimercial relations of the Hawaiian Islands re- main unchanged, shall continue to pay interest on the debt. In Article V. it is provided that there shall be no fur- ther immigration of Chinese into the Hawaiian Islands, except upon such conditions as are now or may hereafter be allowed by the laws of the United States, and no Chi- nese, by reason of anything contained in the treaty shall be allowed to enter the United States from the Ha- waiian Islands. Article VI. provides that the President shall appoint THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 149 five commissioners, at least two of whom shall be resi- dents of the Hawaiian Islands, who shall as soon as is rea- sonable and practicable recommend to Congress such legislation concerning the Territory of Hawaii as they shall deem necessary or proper. Article VH. provides for the ratification of the treaty by the President, by and with. the advice and consent of the Senate, and by President Dole, with the consent of the Hawaiian Senate, in accordance with the Constitu- tion, and for the exchange of ratifications at Washington as soon as possible. The Hawaiian annexationists believed that the countrv would have a stable government if incorporated in the American Union, under which it would become more prosperous than in any past period and the people would be more contented ; that the United States would share in this prosperity and would secure a naval station of in- estimable strategic value ; that, in short, it is the manifest destiny of the Hawaiian Islands to become a part of the United States. The opponents of annexation in Hawaii believed that the Hawaiian natives never would submit to the extinction of their national existence, and that they still looked forward to the restoration of the monarchy, or a native government ; that after annexation they would have no voice whatever in the government ; that the pros- perity of the islands would be doomed, because contract labor would not be available under the laws of the United States, and the sugar plantations cuuld not be profitably worked by free labor ; and that, as the territorial govern- ments of the United States, which would be the form im- ISO THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. posed on Hawaii, had invariably been incompetent, cor- rupt and unjust, the people would be plundered and ha- rassed by political adventurers and carpetbaggers in the event of annexation. The Hawaiian Legislature, which met on September 8 in extra session for the purpose, ratified the treaty by a unanimous vote on September lo, but not without a pro- test from the anti-annexationists, who called a mass meet- ing on September 6 and adopted resolutions asserting that the native Hawaiians and a large majority oi the peo- ])le of the islands were in direct opposition to annexation, and fully believed in the independence and full autonomy of the islands, and in the continuation of the Government of Hawaii as of a free and independent country governed by and under its own laws. Great Britain in recent years has established a protec- torate over a number of outhing islands over which Ha- waii had claims. The occupation of Johnson Island was countermanded and the island was acknowledged to belong to Hawaii on condition that the right to land a cable was conceded, if desired. The British flag had been raised over the Phoenix group, composing the islands of Phoenix, Birnie, Gard- ner and Sydney. Jarvis Island had also been declared a British protectorate. The uninhabited guano island of Palmyra, situated one thousand miles southwest of Ha- waii, had been claimed as alBritish possession since 1888, and in May, 1897, a British gunboat visited it, and hoisted THE ANNEXATION OF HAWAII. 151 the British flag. The Hawaiian Government claimed the same island as a dependency by virtue of its discovery and colonization by its citizens in 1862. 152 CONCLUSION. CHAPTER X. CONCLUSION. The annexation was now a settled fact. It had been advocated and opposed by some of the most brilHant men both in this country and in others. The United States had now branched out and to a cer- tain extent changed its poHcy. But, at the present time of writing, it does seem as if the pohcy of territorial ex- pansion was a good one and that the establishment of colonies is necessary to the development of the trade and commerce of the United States. In a brilliant speech at the Boston Boot and Shoe Club's banquet Senator Henry Cabot Lodge of Massa- chusetts spoke as follows on the subject of expansion : "I come now to what I think the government ought to do. The success of the English speaking race which has carried it all over the world and made it the great indus- trial and commercial people of the earth to-day has been due to the principle of self help. But there are certain things which the spirit of American enterprise must look to the Government to do. ''You cannot expect men to carry your products and to extend your trade by establishing themselves in dis- tant portions of the earth unless you have a government CONCLUSION. 153 that is ready to protect them at all times and at all haz- ards. "We want no commerce at the cannon's mouth, but we do want it understood that wherever an American is en- gaged in business there he is to be protected and that there is a navy of the United States big enough to guard him wherever he sees fit to go. Therefore, I say that we need a large navy as a protection to commerce on the sea as well as on the land. "The question that confronts us is a larger one than what we shall do with the Philippines. They say we are not an Eastern Power unless we hold those islands. We are to-day the greatest Power in the Pacific Ocean. We hold one entire side of that ocean except the outlet which England has in Canada. We hold the halfway house in Honolulu, where all ships must stop when the Nica- ragua Canal is built, as it will be. Are we going to allow the ports of the East to be closed to us and open to Rus- sia, France and Germany alone? Or are we going to stand up and say with England and Japan, The ports of China must be closed to all or they must be open to all ? "It is going to be a struggle, in my judgment, between the maritime nations and the non-maritime nations. It is going to be a struggle to see whether the people who speak the English tongue are to go to the wall., or whether they are to have their share in the commerce of the earth wherever they fly their flag. I believe that the United States is entitled to its share of the world's commerce. I do not believe that we should be shut out from it, and I do not think that there is the least 154 CONCLUSION. danger of war anywhere if we are farsighted enough to make it known to the world just what we want and just what we intend to do. Let our government have wisdom in its foreign poHcy, and its treatment of our merchant marine, and the genius of American invention and enter- prise will do the rest." A most important matter is that to which Senator Lodge alluded when he spoke of Honolulu as a half- way house in case the Nicaragua Canal is built. It may not be out of place in this connection to quote from President Alclvinley's message to Congress early in December, 1898. Speaking of the Nicaragua Canal, the President says : "The Nicaragua Canal Commission, under the chair- manship of Rear Admiral John G. Walker, appointed July 24, 1897, under the authority of a provision in the Sundry Civil Act of June 4 of that year, has nearly com.- , leted its labors, and the results of its exhaustive inqu"ry into the proper route, the feasibility and the cost of coii- struction of an interoceanic canal by a Nicaraguan route will be laid before you. In the performance of its task the commission received all possible courtesy and assist- aP'X' from Hie Governments of Nicaragua and Costa Rica, which thus testified their appreciation of the im- portance of giving a speedy and practical outcome to the great project that has for so many years engrossed the attention of the respective countries. "As the scope of the recent inquiry embraced the whole subject, with the aim of making plans and surveys for a canal by the most convenient route, it necessarily in- CONCLUSION. 155 eluded a review of the results of previous surveys and plans, and in particular those adopted by the Maritime Canal Company under its existing concessions from Nicaragua and Costa Rica, so that to this extent those grants necessarily hold as essential a part in the deliber-. ations and conclusions of the Canal Commission as they have held and must needs hold in the discussion of the matter by the Congress. Under these circumstances, and in view of overtures made to the Governments of Nicaragua and Costa Rica by other parties for a new canal concession, predicated on the assumes! approaching lapse of the contracts of the Maritime Canal Company with those States, I have not hesitated to express my conviction that considerations of expediency and inter- national policy as between the several governments in- terested in the construction and control of an inter- oceanic canal by this route require the maintenance of the status quo until the Canal Commission shall have reported and the United States Congress shall have had the opportunity to pass finally upon the whole matter during the present session without prejudice by reason of any change in the existing conditions. ''Nevertheless, it appears that the Government of Nica- ragua, as one of its last sovereign acts -before merging its powers in those of the newly forrr^d United States of Central America, has granted an optional concession to another association, to become effective on the expira- tion of the present grant. It does not appear what sur- veys have been made or what route is proposed under this contingent grant ; so that an examination of the feas- 156 CONCLUSION. ibility of its plans is necessarily not embraced in the re- port of the Canal Commission. All these circumstances suggest the urgency of some definite action by the Con- gress at this session, if the labors of the past are to be utilized and the linking of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans by a practical waterway is to be realized. That the con- struction of such a maritime highway is now more than ever indispensable to that intimate and ready intercom- munication between our eastern and western seaboards demanded by the annexation of the Hawaiian Islands and the prospective expansion of our influence and com- merce in the Pacific, and that our national policy now more imperatively than ever calls for its control by this Government, are propositions which, I doubt not, the Congress will duly appreciate and wisely act upon. "A convention providing for the revival of the late United States and Chilian Claims Commission and the consideration of claims which were duly presented to the late commission, but not considered because of the ex- piration of the time limited for the duration of the com- mission, was signed May 24, 1897, and has remained un- acted upon by the Senate. The term therein fixed for effecting the exchange of ratifications having elapsed, the convention falls unless the time be extended by amendment, which I am endeavoring to bring about with the friendly concurrence of the Chilian Government." In regard to the afinexation of Hawaii, the President said in the same message : "Pending the consideration by the Senate of the treaty signed June 16, 1897, by the Plenipotentiaries of the CONCLUSION. 157 United States and of the Republic of Hawaii providing for the annexation of the islands, a joint resolution to accomplish the same purpose by accepting the offered cession and incorporating the ceded territory into the Union was adopted by the Congress and approved July 7, 1898. I thereupon directed the United States ship Philadelphia to convey Rear Admiral Miller to Honolulu and intrusted to his hands this important legislative act, to be delivered to the President of the Republic of Hawaii, with whom the Admiral and the United States Minister were authorized to make appropriate arrangements for transferring the sovereignty of the islands to the United States. This was simply but impressively accomplished on the 1 2th of August last, by the delivery of a certified copy of the resolution to President Dole, who thereupon yielded up to the representative of the Government of the United States the sovereignty and public property of the Hawaiian Islands. "Pursuant to the terms of the joint resolution and in exercise of the authority thereby conferred upon me, I •directed that the civil, judicial and military powers there- tofore exercised by the officers of the Government of the Republic of Hawaii should continue to be exercised by those officers until Congress shall provide a government for the incorporated territory, subject to my power to remove such officers and to fill vacancies. The Presi- dent, officers and troops of the republic thereupon took the oath of allegiance to the United States, thus provid- ing for the uninterrupted continuance of all the adminis- 158 CONCLUSION. trative and municipal functions of the annexed territory until Congress shall otherwise enact. "Following the further provision of the j^Min i evolu- tion, I appointed the Hons. Shelby M. Culloni, of Illinois; John T. Morgan, of Alabama; Robert R. Hitt, of Illi- nois ; Sanford B. Dole, of Hawaii, and Walter F. Frear. of Hawaii, as Commissioners to confer and recommend to Congress such legislation concerning the Hawaiian Islands as they should deen^ necessary or proper. The Commissioners having fulfilled the mission confided to them, their report will be laid before you at an early day. It is believed that their recommendations will have th-: earnest consideration due to the magnitude of the re- sponsibility resting upon you to give such shape to the relationship of those midpacific lands to our home Union as will benefit both in the highest degree, realizing the aspiration's of the community that has cast its lot with us and elected to share our political heritage, while at the same time justifying the foresight of those who for three-quarters of a century have looked to the assimila tion of Hawaii as a natural and inevitable consummatioii in harmony with our needs and in fulfillment of our cher- ished traditions. "The questions heretofore pending between Hawaii and Japan growing out of the alleged mistreatment of Japanese treaty immigrants were, I am pleased to say, adjusted before the act of transfer by the payment of a reasonable indemnity to the Government of Japan. "Under the provisions of the joint resolution, the ex- isting customs relations of the Hawaiian Islands with the CONCLUSION. 159 United States and \uth other countries remain un- changed until legislation shall otherwise provide. Tht Consuls of Hawaii here and in foreign countries continue to fulfill their commercial agencies, while the United States Consulate at Honolulu is maintained for all ap- propriate services pertaining to trade and the revenue. It would be desirable that all foreign Consuls in the Ha- waiian Islands should receive new exequaturs from this Government. "The attention of Congress is called to the fact that our consular offices having ceased to exist in Hawaii, and being about to cease in other countries coming under the sovereignty of the United States, the provisions for the relief and transportation of destitute American sea- men in these countries under our consular regulations will in consequence terminate. It is proper, therefore, that new legislation should be enacted upon this subject in order to meet the changed conditions." The allusion which the President makes to Japan should perhaps be explained here in more detail. The facts of the case were as follows : The treaty made between Japan and Hawaii in 1871 contained the favored-nation clause, and under its pro- visions Hawaii could not prevent Japanese from coming to the islands free as immigrants. A law was passed to exclude lunatics, paupers and persons liable to become a burden on the community, and the manner in which it was enforced led to a controversy with the Japanese Gov- ernment. Another law restricted the importation of con- tract laborers m a manner which the Japanese held to be i6o CONCLUSION. contrary to existing engagements. Although but fev/ of the Japanese now in the islands are able to read and write English or Hawaiian, which constitutes the quali- fications for the franchise, the Americans feared that the continued settlement of Japanese in the Hawaiian Islands and the influx of educated Japanese would result in the transfer of the political power to -them, and the adoption of such laws as would make Hawaii a Japanese colony. The first measure to restrict the influx of Japanese was a regulation of the Immigration Commissioner issued in 1895, requiring planters to import two-thirds of their contract laborers from China or from other countries than Japan. The Japanese Government asked an ex- planation. The free immigration of Japanese not under contract and not of the laboring class, but many of them of the student class, reached enormous proportions early in 1897, when in one week as many as 1,500 arrived and the regular increase was at the rate of from i,8oo*to 2,00c a month. Finally the Hawaiian authorities refused tc allow 587 immigrants to land from the steamer Shinshin Maru, which arrived on Feb. 22. At first- they were held in quarantine on the complaint that there was smallpo?^'. on board. In the end the steamer was compelled to tako more than four hundred of them back to Japan. The same course of action was taken in regard to the immigrant passengers on the Sakura Maru and the Kinai Maru, the latter of which arrived in port April 17; about 1,200 immigrants on the three vessels were or- dered to be taken back by the ships that brought them CONCLUSION. i6i after a period of detention in the quarantine station, an island in the harbor. The Supreme Court refused to issue a writ of habea;* corpus on the ground that the immigrants, not having been landed on Hawaiian soil, were not within the juris- diction of the court. Hawaii based her right to exclude these people on the laws regulating immigration, framed with special reference to contract laborers. These 1,999 immigrants from Japan were prevented from landing on the ground that they were without the prescribed quali- fications or had broken the immigration laws. These bars required that the contract laborers should have a contract to work in the service of some Hawaiian citizen for at least two years. These contract laborers must have their agreements previously indorsed by the Hawaiian Board of Immigration. Japanese contract laborers first went to Hawaii in re- sponse to the demand for labor in the islands under convention concluded in 1886 at the request of the Ha waiian Government, in which the Japanese insertecJ clauses for the protection of the laborers more stringent than are usually included in arrangements for the im- portation of coolie labor, for the Japanese Governmeni w^as not eager to obtain this outlet for labor and was above all anxious that its citizens should not be reduceci to the position of coolies. To these conditions, which were not applied to Chinese and other contract laborers, the Hawaiian planters eventually raised objections, think ing that they could obtain labor more cheaply if the re- strictions were removed. 1 62 CONCLUSION. Free laborers were entitled to enter Hawaii without any preliminary consent of the authorities, but not unle.v they had fifty dollars in their possession. Of the total number excluded, nearly i,ooo had a wri' ten agreement with the Japanese Immigration Compan whereby, in consideration of the payment of twelve yen, the company agreed to return the immigrants to their home in Japan in case it was unable to procure work for them after landing. They had come as free laborers, but the Hawaiian au- thorities held that this agreement made them contract laborers in the view of the law, and that it was a contract that had not received the approval of the Hawaiian Im- migration Commissioners, such as the law requires. These immigrants and others showed fifty dollars in cash, but the authorities demanded proof that it wae their own, not lent by the immigration societies to the immigrants, to be returned to their agents after landing, for the purpose of evading the law.— The Japanese consular authorities brought habeas cor-,- pus proceedings in the case of the immigrants who were detained on board ship pending their deportation, but the Hawaiian courts refused to issue writs of habeas cor- pus. The Japanese Government decided to stop free immi- gration for a time and to send a warship to Hawaii. The United States Government at the same time dis- patched the cruiser Philadelphia, which was in Honolulu harbor when the Nanina arrived on May 5. The Japanese cruiser brought a commissioner to investigate the immi- CONCLUSION. 163 gration question. The Japanese Government alleged violations of the treaty on the part of the Hawaiian au- thorities in refusing to permit the immigrants to lan^ thus placing it out of the power of the Japanese Consul to protect them, in preventing them from placing tli matter in the hands of legal advisers and in the refusal of the judiciary to entertain a suit at law instituted by thi» Japanese whose landing had been prevented. Money damages in their behalf to the amount of nearly $100,000 were demanded. The sudden prohibition from landing applied to Jap- anese free immigrants was denounced as arbitrary and an infraction of the treaty of 1871, which secures to Jap- anese subjects the right to enter Hawaiian ports with ships and cargoes of all sorts, to trade, travel, reside and exercise every profession in Hawaiian ports, to have comiplete protection to persons, property and civil rights, and to have free access to courts of justice and liberty to choose and employ lawyers. The Hawaiian Government took the position that the immigration laws were a rea- sonable exercise of the police power of the State, and in answer to the Japanese complaint at the sudden strin- gency with which they were applied, said that they had been laxly enforced as long as the immigration and trans portation companies did not attempt fraud, but when these companies made an attempt by evasions of the law to flood the country with pauper immigrants it was nec- essary to enforce the immigration acts to the letter. The Japanese Government complained also of a dis- criminating duty imposed on sake, a national beverage of i64 CONCLUSION the Japanese. The duty had been fixed at fifteen cent:' a gallon, but the Legislature passed, over the veto of ; President Dole, ^bid imposing a duty of one dollar a gallon, which was held by Japan to be a breach of the treaty between the two countries. In February, 1897, the Hawaiian Government re- quested that the Japanese immigration laws be changed so as to restrict free immigration into Hawaii. At the time of the signature of the annexation treaty the Japanese Minister at Washington demanded the rec- ognition by the United States of all the rights of Japan and her subjects under subsisting treaties with Hawaii. He protested against depriving the Japanese residents in Hawaii, who possess large property rights, of the rights which they enjoy under present conditions to become citizens and to vote, and against subjecting them to any measures which the United States might adopt in dero- gation of their existing treaty rights. The Japanese note, while disclaiming all designs against the integrity and sovereignty of Hawaii on the' part of Japan, urged that maintenance of the status quo of Hawaii was essential to the good understanding of the powers which had interests in the Pacific. It was fur- ther suggested that annexation might lead to the post- ponement by Hawaii of claims and liabilities already ex- isting in favor of Japan under treaty stipulations. Mr. Sherman, in his reply of June 25, met the general protest with the statement that the influence of the United States in Hawaii has always been paramount, that an- nexation has long been recognized as a necessary con- CONCLUSION. 165 tingency, always probable and steadily drawing nearer, and was proposed four years before without eliciting any objection from Japan, and that the United States Govern- ment would not admit that the projected -union of Ha- waii to the United States can injure any legitimate in- terests of other powers in the Pacific. With reference to the rights and claims of Japanese subjects, he pointed out that, although treaties would be extinguished by an- nexation, rights that have already accrued to Japan or to Japanese subjects under the treaty between Japan and Hawaii would remain. ,^ Torn Hoshi, the Japanese Minister, replying on July to Mr. Sherman's note, acknowledged the predominant and paramount influence of the United States on Hawaii, which he considered a guarantee against everything in- imkal to either the United States or Hawaii, and there- fore an argument against any change injuriously affect- ing the interests of others in the status quo. The Jap- anese Government could not view with unconcern and in a spirit of acquiescence the consequences which would probably follow the extinction of Hawaiian sovereignty, nor anticipate without apprehension the consequences, direct and indirect, that would follow the consummation of the theory that annexation meant the immediate ter- mination of the treaties and conventions with Hawaii and the consequent cessation for the future of the privileges granted thereunder, and it would not admit that the treaty of 1858 with the United States, which is wholly unreciprocal, could be extended to Hawaii without its consent. i66 CONCLUSION. Hawaii proposed to arbitrate the immigration question ] and other differences, and Japan, after first declining, be- fore the end of July accepted arbitration in principle and expressed a willingness to discuss the basis, the subject- matter and the procedure of arbitration. The Chinese Consul raised objections in behalf of his countrymen, against whom the Hawaiian Government was beginning to apply the exclusion act in force with the United States. The Hawaiian Minister assured them that Chinese re- siding in Hawaii would be free to visit their native coun- try and return. In the autumn the immigration of free laborers from Japan was resumed. The Japanese authorities took pains to see that evef>^ one of the immigrants complied with the immigration regulations, and the Hawaiian Govern- ment, which had given the assurance when the disnute first arose that there would be no interference with bona fide immigrants, was helpless to stop this further .immi- gration. Hawaii accepted Japan's proposal that each party ta the controversy should prepared statement of the facts on which it rests its case. Japan admitted the rights of both parties to present testimony regarding facts on which they were not agreed. Finally, as President McKinley intimated, everything was settled to the satisfaction of both countries. Probably the best exposition of the living issues in Hawaii, after the annexation, was written by a corre- spondent of the New York "Sun." In substance this communication was as" follows : CONCLUSION. 167 The question of paramount importance in Hawaii now is the form of government to be erected in the. islands. The question is important for Americans, too ; but in Ha- waii httle else is talked of. The burning question of the hour is the extent and limitations of the franchise which the Commissioners are to confer. It is the prevailing be- lief here that the three American Commissioners will practically form a law-making trio and the two Hawaiian Commissioners will be called on for information regard- ing island affairs. ''Royalists and anti-annexationists in Hawaii are a little sore that they should have no representation upon the commission, but they are willing to waive their right to be recognized if only the Commissioners will enfran- chise the Kanakas and restore to the native a portion of his rights. "There are several well-defined functions in Hawaii. One group cares nothing for political rights or forms. Its sole wish was to make the islands American, and its only desire now is to keep the Kanakas voteless. These men were ardent for annexation, but are now entirely in- different politically. It was commercialism and not pa- triotism that animated them. Royalists and men who have regard for the natives are hoping that the native Ha- waiians may receive the franchise as an act of justice. It is difficult to see how they can be deprived of it if the territory of Hawaii is formed on lines of constitutional precedent. "It is probable that the property qualification will be abolished, but there is some talk of substituting an Eng- i68 CONCLUSION. lish educational test. Almost all Hawaiians read and write their own language, and there is no country in the world where the percentage of illiteracy is so small. But many of the natives do not read and write English, which is a foreign language, and an English educational fran- chise would discriminate against these men, although it would be a declining evil, as young Hawaiians, who at- tend school compulsorily, are all instructed in English. Nevertheless an English education qualification will leave the missionary party in power for another term of years. "It is conceded that if the native Kanaka receives the vote it will mean the end of the missionary hierarchy. In spite of diminished numbers and the loss of lands, the na^ tives still outnumber the whites, nor do they need any tell- ing as to who it is that has caused their downfall. So small a portion of the native vote that it scarcely deserves to be counted is in favor of the missionary party. Only ultra-religious natives are there. A wealthy native who is the owner of shipping said to me yesterday : " 'The white man is too sharp for us. Once my peo- ple owned all lands out Ewa way. That was Kameha- meha's land. Now it all belongs to the white man. If the missionaries had taught us politics and the white man's ways in business as carefully as they taught us to pray, we might have kept our lands. But they taught us religion and were careful to keep us ignorant of their methods, and now we have nothing.' "The fact, everywhere conceded, that the enfranchise- ment of the native Hawaiian means the end of the present regime, causes office-holders much serious thought. It CONCLUvSION. 169 remains to be seen whether the Commissioners will be true to republican principles in spite of pressure and prejudice on the part of the office-holding class. **No voice is raised, for the enfranchisement of the Ori- entals who are so numerous in the islands. The pre- vailing sentiment is that votes should be given as in Cali- fornia to native-born Orientals who fill the prescribed requirements. Even then trouble is apprehended from the Japanese, who are numerous and independent. They consider themselves quite as good as any Occidental ever born, and they are not offering the other cheek with Christian meekness these days. "Three parties or factions have already appeared. The first is in power and is called in Hawaii the ^family com- pact.' It is composed almost entirely of men whose fa- thers or grandfathers were missionaries, who civilized the natives, buried the larger part of them, and fell heir to their extremely fertile lands. The missionaries bred their sons to business or professions, made lawyers and mer- chants and planters of them, and the choicest parts of Ha- waii are theirs. "Two factions are forming in opposition to the mis- sionary party. "Then there are the royalists, who have no grudge against America, and merely want to see the native get his rights under annexation. Very few of the royalists have ever taken the oath under the republic. The royal- ists are more anxious to punish the missionaries than anything else and they will throw all their weight with any opposition." J70 CONCLUvSION. On the 6lh of December, 1898, the commission made its report. This report was in substance as follows : Hawaii was to be placed at once on the plane of an organized Territory of the United States, and was to enjoy the same degree of self government that is ac- corded to New Mexico, Arizona and Oklahoma. Though it was a matter outside of the strict subject matter of their report, the commission took care to in- dicate that its recorrimendation of self government for the Hawaiian Islands must not be construed to mean that the same form of government would be advisable for Porto Rico or the Philippines. It was pointed out that the people of Hawaii had already demonstrated their capability of self government by the establishment and maintenance of the Republic of Hawaii, and that they were already more or less familiar with the instruc- tions and laws of the United States, from which many of the laws of Hawaii were drawn. By the proposed bill providing for the territorial form of government, safeguards were thrown around the suf- frage, w^hich would probably be sufficient to insure the domination of Americans and persons of American de- scent in the government of the islands. All white per- sons, including Portuguese, and persons of African de- scent, and all persons descended from the Hawaiian race, on either the paternal or maternal side, who wero citizens of Hawaii immediately preceding the annexa- tion, were made citizens of the United States. This barred out from citizenship 25,000 Japanese and 21,500 Chinese laborers in the islands. CONCLUSION. 171 Xot all citizens were to bo permitted to vote for mem- bers of the territorial Legislature. Those who had paid their taxes and were able to understandingly speak, read and write the English or Hawaiian language could vote for representatives in the Legislature, but in order to vote for territorial Senator a person must have these qualifica- tions, and in addition must have paid taxes for the pre- ceding year on not less than $1,000 worth of real prop- erty, or have received an income of not less than $600. The bill providing for the government prescribed all the governmental machinery and repealed certain Ha- waiian laws which wxre in conflict with United States statutes, or were unnecessary in view ^f annexation. Other bills submitted provided for recoining the Ha- waiian silver currency into L^nited States coins and for the discontinuance of the Hawaiian postal savings bank system. The provision that the constitution and laws of the ' Ignited States locally applicable should have the same force and eflfect in the Territory of Hawaii as elsewhere in the United States was regarded by the Commissioners as exceptionally important for many reasons, among which they mentioned the continued importation of coolie labor into Hawaii. Remarking upon this point, they said : *'It has been the policy of the government of Hawaii, both since and before the establishment of the republic, to import men under labor contracts for a term of years, at the expiration of which they are to return to the coim- 172 CONCLUSION. tries from which they came. Those brought in are mainly from China and Japan. "Since the act of Congress annexing Ha\yaii was passed, prohibiting Chinese immigration, the Hawaiian sugar planters have seemed to be making an unusual effort in securing the importation of Japanese, laborers, fearing trouble and embarrassment on account of insuf- ficient labor for the care and carrying on of their sugar plantations. *'Of course, it becomes necessary to extend our labor laws over the island, so as to prohibit all kinds of foreign contract labor from coming to the territory, first, because it is the policy of the country to keep out all kinds of cheap foreign labor, including coolie labor, and thereby prevent such labor from interfering with the wages of American labor, and, secondly, to protect our manu- factured products from competition with manufactured goods produced by cheap alien labor. "The question whether ".vhite labor can be profitably utilized in the sugar plantations is yet a problem ; but the planters are preparing to give such labor a trial, and some of them believe it will prove superior to the labor of either Chinese or Japanese." The report was unanimous, except upon one point, on which President Dole made minority recommendation. This recommendation was for a Board of Advisers to the Governor of the Territory, and he recommended that the Treasurer, Attorney-General, Superintendent of Public Works and Commissioner of Public Lands should be CONCLUSION. 173 constituted special counsellors of the Governor, to be con- sulted by him concerning all matters of public policy. Mr. Dole gave as his reason for his recommendation the fear that without some such provision the Governor might arrogate to himself greater power than was con- templated. ''While," he said, "with some misgivings I have as- sented to the provisions of the majority report, which place the executive power of the territory in the hands of one individual, and do away with the Executive Council, I am unable to accept those which confer upon the Gov- ernor the appointment of all subordinate officers, and which, while giving him the appointment of heads of de- partments, with the approval of the Senate, permit him to remove them without such approval — a power not en- joyed by the President of the United States. Nor can I agree to the absence of any provisions whatever limiting or checking the Governor's executive power under the laws, excepting as to the approval of the Senate required in certain appointments. "The weight of these objections will be better under- stood in view of the recommendations of the Commis- sioners that the Legislature shall hold regular sessions but once in two years, as heretofore, which circumstance would furnish the Governor with the opportunity, if he should choose to seize it, of removing any or all heads of departments immediately after the termination of the regular session of the Legislature and filling their places with persons whose commissions would be valid until the 174 CONCLUSION. etid of the next session of the Senate, which might not occur for nearly two years. "By this means a Governor, acting within his authority, could substantially evade the provisions requiring these appointments to J^e approved by the Senate. The per- formances of like character under the monarchy are too fresh in the minds of the Hawaiian community to permit them to contemplate without dismay the possibility of a repetition thereof. "The Governor, under the provisions of the act recom- mended by the commission, will have less check to his administration of afifairs than was the case with the sov- ereigns under the monarchy, excepting only in the mat- ter of tenure of office." The report contained an inventory of the public prop- erty of the republic, which now inured to the United States, which was of an estimated value of $10,418,740. Construction of a cable to the Hawaiian Islands was recommended, to be under the contrt)! of the United States, which, the report said, "Is demanded by the mili- tary conditions existing or liable to exist at any time." As regards our acquisition of Hawaii, we are not likely to have the trouble there as we may possibly ha:ve with Aguinaldo and his followers in the Philippines. The entire foreign population, if it can be so called, CONCLUSION, 175 is in favor of the United States, and rejoices at annexa- tion. As to the natives, ^liss Krout, in her excellent book, concludes somewhat sadly : "No matter what the outcome may be, the Hawaiian is a fading race, with remnants of heathen customs still hampering it, confronted by the stronger and the newer, trained in government and refined, or at any rate strengthened, by civilization. It is one of those crises which come to individuals and nations alike, when des- tiny leaves little choice to the actor in the drama, and events move on irresistibly through the transition wihch evolves at last higher and better conditions. It is the apparent triumph of the strong over the weak ; it is, in reality, the natural dissolution of that which has served its time. It seems a hard and pitiless doctrine, but it is the unvarying law of nature and history." Still, taking it all in all. we can trust with confidence to the future. Mr. Watterson, in the Louisville Courier- Journal, gives utterance to the following stout-hearted, ringing words : "God, who gave to the modern world \\'ashington and Lincoln, will take care of all the interests of the American Republic between Porto Rico and the Philippine Islands, between Havana and Hawaii, even as He took care of the territorv of Louisiana and Texas." 176 CONCLUSION. Surely, the United States may well go forward fear- lessly, and Hawaii will unquestionably in the near future be a possession of which we shall be unfeignedly proud. In conclusion, let us quote a charming poem by Mr, Philip Henry Dodge, which appeared in the Overland Monthly : On the heaving of the ocean, Like a loving mother's breast, Lie the Islands of Hawaii As an infant in its rest. Sleep sweetly, Hawaii, so fearless and free, Fair daughter of ocean, the child of the sea. Fond the mother's arms are clasping. With caresses soft and light. In the framing of the surf-beat On the shores by day and night. Sleep sweetly, Hawaii, each silvery tide But draws thy fond mother more close to thy side. Where the light cascades are falling, To the ocean from the steep. There are geiitle baby fingers Which within the mother's creep. Sleep sweetly, Hawaii, so tenderly blest, As lovingly brooded as bird in its nest. Soft the baby eyes are hidden, In the sunshine and the calm, 'Mid the radiance of the mountains. Fringed with fragrant fern and palm. Sleep sweetly, Hawaii, the stars in the sky. Are joined in the tune of thy kind lullaby. CONCLUSION. 177 Robes of verdure, closely clinging Round thy form in tender grace, Weave the beauty of thy garments, Cloth of gold and leafy lace. Sleep sweetly, Hawaii, each cloud as it flies But brings thee a message of love from the skies. Hushed amid the tender silence. Still thy heart is beating low, In the fiery, livid pulsing Of the lurid crater's glow. Sleep sweetly, Hawaii, the murmur of waves, Is echo of music from coral formed caves. Calmly rest, with sunbeams smiling O'er the dimples of thy face. Clasped amid the loving waters Of thy mother's fond embrace. Sleep stveetly, Hawaii, so trustful and strong, All nature is singing thy glad cradle song. THE END. A CUARANTEE THAT'S GOOD ! We have tiousouds of testimonials, and are proud of the stories they tell of relief from many forms of misery. But the experience of another person may not be yours with the same preparation. ^ CURE {j^tMOTU^ Constipation IOc», 25o, 50a Sold on merit only under an absolute guarantee to cure, if used according to directions. Every retail druggist is authorized to sell two 50c. boxes Ca^carets under guar- antee to cure or money refunded. You take no cliances when you buy our preparations, sent by mail for price, 10c. , 25c., or 50c.— Address SIIORLING REMEDY CO., Chi- cago, Montreal or New York— or when you purchase under ALL DRUGGISTS. 10c. , 25c., 50c. Your Own Druggists' Guarantee. 260 MADE A MAN OF ME That's what 400,000 former Tobacco USERS say about NO-TO-BAC, the wonderful origriiial piuirantt'ed tobacco habit cure. NO-TO- BAC is the greatest KEiiVIi BUILDER knov^r^. for man and woman alike, jd brings new blissl'ul life to many who have lost all hope fur happiness. It restores vitality, no matter what causes have destroyi It r^Buy NO-TO BAC uiid'T your QwnDrugrgist's Guarantees. Price, 50c.or|l a box; three |1 boxes, ?2.50. Absnluteiy MAI/CC J^i^eanylV^Vy WEAK MEN * T' \\y STRONG ^^''^^^ ^' Write for booklet and free sample STERLING REMEDY CO.. Chicago, Montreal, Can. or New York. sisn Come and hear the children singf Ripans Tabules — just the thing* They cure the sick; They banish pain; One gives relief. And you can buy ten for five cents. WANTED:— A case of had health that R-I-P-A'N-S will not benefit. Send five cents to llipans Chemical Co.. Xo. 10 Spruce Street, New York, for 10 san)i)les and 1,000 testiinoui;ils. R-J-P-AN'-S. 10 forScents, or 12 packets for 48 cents, may be had of all druggists who are wiliiimto sell alow-priced medicine at a inodeniti- profit. Thej- banish pain and pr'louir life. One gives relief. Note the word R-I-P-A-N* ou the packet. Accept no substitute. My little girl, almost since birth, nnd she is now three years old, was troubled with a breaking out all over the body. 1 tried botli homoeo- pathic and old school doctors, but none of them did her any good. I gave her all kinds of spring medicines, and at last commenced to think they dill her more harm than good. She seemed to be worse at the cliange of the season, especially s}uingtime, and would break out on her lips, back of her ears, inside of her nose, on her chest, and in fact all over her body, and then the breaking out would turn into sores, forming a hard scab which v/ould continuallv bleed, and it was disgusting. A friend of mine, Mrs. Knouls, told me to try Ripans Tabules, and I did, and after using three boxes you will know how much good they did her when 1 went to work and threw all the other medicines I had out, as I h;id no more^ use for the4n. It is three months since 1 gave Ripans Tabules to my child, and she is entirely well now. I will never be without the Tabules in the house, for they are a blessing. WANTED:— A case of bud hoaUh tliat R-I'P-A-N-S will not benefit. Send five coins to Ripans Clicmical Co., No. 10 Spruce Street, New York, for 10 samples and 1,000 test! inonials. R'T-F'A-N-S, 10 for 5 cents, or K i)ackets for 48 cents, may be lind of all driigeists who are willing' to sell a sUmdard medicine at a moderate profit Tliey banish pain and prolong life. One gives relief. Note the word R'IP-A*N'8 on the packet. Accept uo substitute. I have more vigor and my health is so much better in every way, and I feel I owe it all to Ripans Tab- ules. They are my stand-by. I never knew that I could get such relief and so soon. I have been wonderfully benefited by them after hard study. WANTED:— A case of bad healtli tliat RIPA-XS will not benefit. Send five cents to Ripans CUeinical Co., No. 10 Spruce Street, New York, for 10 samples and 1,000 testimonials. R-M'A-N-S. 10 tor .5 cents, or 12 packets for 48 cents, may l»e had of all druggists who are willing to sell a standard nipdicine at a moderate profit. They banish pain and prolong lir*>. One gives relief. Note the word RIPA-NS ou the packet. Accept no substitute. Mrs. Georgie Sheldon Has to her credit the sale of more than a mil- lion copies of her fascinating, romantic novels. These stories positively cannot be bought under any other imprint. Their irresistible charm is traceable to the admixture of romantic fancy with scenes and events taken from life, with which page after page is adorned. It can be safely stated that no American authoress of the day has captivated and controls such a vast army of readers of all classes and conditions, who keep pouring in a steadfast flow of letters, thanking and praising the novelist for the high intellectual pleasure she has afforded them. These volumes are handsomely printed and bound in tastefully illustrated paper covers. Price, 25 cents. On heavier paper, bound in cloth, $1.00. Marguerite's Heritage. Earle Wayne's Nobility* Nameless DelL The Forsaken Bride* Brownie's Triumph. His Heart's Queen. Mona. Wedded by Fate. Geoffrey's Victory. Audrey's Recompense. Vir gie's Inheritance. Wild Oats. Max. A True Aristocrat. Trixy. Sibyl's Influence. Stella Rosevelt. Lost, A Pearle. For sale by all booksellers and newsdealers, or sent, postage free, on receipt of price, by the publisher?, STREET &- SMITH, New York. AMEDEE ACIIARD Belle Rose. Paris No. 9. 25c. ALISON So Near and Yet So Far. Daisy No. 16. 5c. GRANT ALLEX In All Shades. Arrow No. 22. loc. HON. EVELYN ASHHY Illegal Marriage, The. Select No. 61. 25c. ROSE ASHLEIGU His Other Wife. " 70. ** Widow's Wager, The. " 9. " ANNIE ASHMORE Beautiful Rienzi. " 41. " Bride Elect, The. *' 13. " Sweet Sisters of Inchvarra, The. ** 71. *' CLARA AUGUSTA Nobody's Daiicrhter. " 82. ♦' Lost Bride, The. ** 21. *' FRANK BARRETT Great Hesper, The. Arrow No. 31. loc. YOUNG BAXTER Old Mortality, King of Detectives. Secret Service No. 9. 25c. CHARLES J. BELLAMY Moment of Madness, A. ^ Select No. 46. 25c. ADOLPHE BELOT Tragedy of the Rue de la Paix, The. Arrow No. 32. loc. JULIA TRUITT BISHOP Kathleen Douglas. Primrose No. 4. 50c. DION BOUCCICAULT Forbidden Fruit. Drama No. 16. 25c. PAUL BOURGET Living Lie, A. Arrow No. 8. loc. BURKE BRENTFORD Florence Falkland. Select No. 14. 25c. Gold Dust Darrell. Secret Service No. 30. 25c. Lost in New York. Select No. 84. 25c. EDWARD 8. BROOKS Soldier Lover, A. Flag No. 2. 25c. a. WALDO BROWN Daughter of Maryland, A. Clover No. 68. 25c. 3IARY E. BIIYAN Stormy Wedding, A. Select No. 6. 25c. ROBERT BUCHANAN Matt, a Tale of a Caravan. Daisy No. 24. 5c. NED BUNTLINE * Dashing Charlie. Sea anc? Shore No. 25. 25c. Naval Detective's Chase, The. Secret Service No. 25. 25c. Red Dick. Sea and Shore No. 26. 25c NEIL BURGESS County Fair, The. Eagle No. 60. loc. FREDERIC R. BURTON Mission of Poubalov, The. Criterion No. 20. 50c. HALL CAINE Bondman, The. Model No. 2. 25c. Deemster, The. " i. *' Shadow of a Crime, A. " 3. " She's all the World to Me. Arrow No. 2. loc. Son of Hagar, A. Model No. 4. 25c ROSE NOUCHETTE CAREY Only the Governess. Model No. 15. 25c NICHOLAS CARTEIt Accidental Password, An. American Marquis, The. Among the Counterfeiters. Among the Nihilists. At Odds with Scotland Yard. At Thompson's Ranch, Australian Klondike, A. Caught in the Toils. Chance Discovery, A. Check No. 777. Crime of a Countess, The. Deposit Vault Puzzle, A. Evidence by Telephone. Fighting Against Millions. Gambler's Syndicate, The. Great Enigma, The. Klondike Claim, A. Man from India, The. Millionaire Partner, A. Mysterious Mail Robbery, The. Old Detective's Pupil, The. Magnet No .53. IOC. (( 7- \ Bag of Diamonds, The. . Magnet No. 30. loc. . OCTAVE FEUILLET Led Astray. Drama No. 17. 25c. Parisian Romance, A. '* 12. " Romance of a Poor Young Man, The. Sea and Shore No. 34. 25c. E\S1G> CLARKE FITCH, U. S. >. Fiirhting Squadron. The. Columbia No. 2. loc Prisoner of Morro, A. " 4. " JAMKS FRANKLIN FITTS Modern Miracle, A. Traymore No. 3. 25c. Struggle for Maverick, The. " 11. '• GERALDINE FLEMING Only a Girl's Love. Clover No. 124. 25c. Sinless Crime, A. '* 133. 25c. MAY AGNES FLEMING Virginia Heiress, The. Eagle No. 9. loc. R. E. FRANCILLON King or Knave. Arrow No. 7. loc. EMILE GARORIAU Caught in the Net (Slaves of Paris, Vol I), Magnet No. 20. loc. Champdoce Mystery, The (Slaves of Paris Vol. II). Magnet No. 22. loc. Clique of Gold, The. " 29. " Detective's Dilemma, The (Mons. Lecoq, Vol. I.) Magnet No. 24. loc. Detective's Triumph, The (Mons. Lecoq, Vol. II) Magnet No. 25. loc. File No. 113. "26. " Widow Lerouge, The. " 15. *' CHARLES GARVICE Elaine. Eagle No. 22. loc. Her Heart's Desire. " 41. " Her Ransom. *' 50. " Leslie's Loyalty. ** 17. '* Marquis, The. ** 73. ** Wasted Love, A. ** 24. " 8 GEORGE W. GOODE Post Office Detective, The, Magnet No. 52. loc. H. RIDER HAGGARD Allan Quatermain. Arrow No. 33. loc. Maiwa's Revenge. Daisy No. 10. 5c. A. D. HALL Cattle King, The. Drama No. 32. 25c. Cuba: Its Past, Present and Future. Historical No, i. loc. Fatal Card, The. Eagle No, 16. loc. Mavournecn. " 76. ** Northern Lights. Brama No. 28. 25c. MARY GRACE HALPINE Discarded. Clover No. 126. 25c. T. W. HANSHEW Beautiful but Dangerous. Select No. 86. 25c. Wedded Widow, A. " 2. " Young Mrs. Charnleigh. Traymore No. i. " T. C. HARBALGH White Squadron, The. Clover No. 69. 25c. MARION HARLAND Stepping Stones. Select No. 57. 25c. BEATRICE HARRADEN At the Green Dragon. Daisy No. 15. 5c. JOSEPH HATTOX John Needham's Double, , Magnet No, 41. loc. JULIAN HAWTHORNE Kildhurm's Oak. Traymore No. 19. 25c. MRS. SUMNER HAYDEX Vella Vernell. Select No. 3. 25c. yy. HEIMBURG Martha, the Parson's Daughter. Select No. 106. 25c. K. F. HILL Mysterious Case, A, Magnet No. 32. loc. Mvsterv of a Madstone, The. Secret Service No. 20. 25c. Twin Detectives, The. " " 4- 25c. MRS. H. C. HOFFMAN Broken Vows. Clover No. 127. 25c. Harvest of Thorns, A. " 125, " Leah's Mistake, " 130- " Miserable Woman, A. ** 123. " 9 MISS M. E. HOLMES Woman Against Woman, Eagle No. 52. loc. <;i:NIE H0LZ3IEYER (Mrs. SydDey Roseiifehl) Proud Dishonor, A. Select No. 76. 25c. A> THOXY HOPE' Dolly Dialogues, The. Daisy No. 7. 5c. Sport Roval. '" 17. " ADAH M. HOWAIM) Child Wife, The, and Only a Governess. Clover No. 132. 25c. VICTOR HUGO Han of Iceland. * Arrow No. 19. loc. Hunchback of Notre Dame, The. Paris No. 5. 25c. Ruv Bias. Arrow No. 37. loc. Toilers of the Sea, The. " 30. " FERGFS HUME Mystery of a Hansom Cab, The. Magnet No. 47. loc. OLD HITCH Detective's Clue, The. Secret Service No. 14. 25c. POLICE CAPTAIN JAMI-S Little Lightning. Secret Service No. 8. 25c. Revenue Detective, The. Magnet No. 42. loc. T. P. JAMLS Under Fire. Eagle No. 75. loc. EMMA GARRISON JOXKS Lady Ryhope's Lover. Select No. 32. 25c. Terrible Crime, A. Clover No. 131. 25c. Wedded for an Hour. Eagle No. 81. loc. Will She Win. Select No. 8. 25c. RIDYARD KIPLING Light That Failed, The. Arrow No. i. loc. Phantom 'Rickshaw, The. " 12. " Second Rate Woman, A. Daisy No. 5. 5c. W. B. LAWSON Dal ton Boys in California, The. Secret Service No. 58. 25c. LEWIS LEON Silver Ship, The. Sea and Shore No. 2. 25c. MRS. HARRIET LEWIS Belle of the Season, The. Clover No. ^g. 25c. Heiress of Egremont, The. Select No. 29. 25c. House of Secrets, The. Clover No. 57. 25c. LUCY C. LILLIE Roslyns' Trust. Traymore No. 4. 25c. ANNIE LISLE Whose Wife is She? Select No. 59. 25c. 10 JEAN KATE LUDLUM At a Girl's Mercy. Select No. 40. 25c. That Girl of Johnson's. Traymore No. 9. 25c. DONAJil) J. McKENZIE Under His Thumb. • Magnet No. 28. loc. Face to Face. Secret Service No. 55. 25c. 0. 3IAITLAXD Society Detective, The. Magnet No. 34. loc. 3IARLIXE MANLEY Old Specie. ^ Magnet No. 45. loc. Poker King, The. Shield No. 25. 25c. Rube Burrow's League. Secret Service No. 40. 25c. Vestibule Limited Mystery, The. Magnet No. 57. loc. CHARLES T, MANNERS Octavia's Pride. - Select No. 10. 25c. Silver Brand, A. Traymore No. 18. 25c. ( LEWENT R. MARLEY Richard Forrest, Bachelor. Criterion No. 16. 50c. Social Meteor, A. Select No. 105. 25c. FLORENCE MARRYAT Her Lord and Master. Model No. 13. 25c. Out of His Reckoning. Daisy No. 25. 5c. CHARLES MATTHEW Mabel Seymour. Secret Service No. 41. 25c. PROSPER MERLMEE Carmen. Drama No. 15. 25c. DR. MARK MERRICK Great Travers Case, The. Magnet No. 48. loc. J. M. MERRILL Fair Pioneer, A. Flag No. 3. 25c. JEAN MIDDLEMAS Maddoxes, The. MRS. ALEX. Bonnie Dora. Bride of the Tomb, The. Brunette and Blonde. Crushed Lily, A. Dreadful Temptation, A. Dora Tenney. Lillian, My Lillian. Little Coquette Bonnie Little Southern Beauty, A. Old Man's Darling, An. Arrow No. 38. IOC. cYEIGH MILLKR Clover No. 118. 25c. " 120. u 49- (( - 71. (( *' 117. u Eagle No. 64. IOC. Clover No. 75. 25c. Eagle No. 43. IOC. 25. (( Clover No. T19. 25c. 11 A monthly publication devoted to good literature. By subscription, $i.oo per year. November, 1898. Entered as second-class matter at New York Host-offlcc. Street & Smith, 81 Fulton Street, New York. all's Vegetable Sicilian . . Hair'K « enewer Restores color to faded or gray hair. Makes the hair grow. Stops falling of the hair. Cures dandruff. Prevents baldness. If your druggist cannot supply you, send one dollar to R. P. Hall & Co., Nashua, N. U. I UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. ■■JEC'D tD-URL £ D£C26196d 0EC241969 rn WEtTDtD-URD DRt MAR 2 5 77 SIAR241977 Form L9-Series 444 Ui:4iV. ^\ijirui\is^ LIB1:aKY 3 1158 00068 3192 t PLEA-r. DO NOT REMOVE THIS BOOK CARD , 1 ^aojiwDJO'^ V? university Research Library