tm^ SKBXYIS5T TO SEASON AT HARWICH, CitiiraintiD hj %m\ nnii Wnln: TO WHICH IS ADDED RESEARCHES, HISTORICAL, NATURAL, AXD MISCELLANEOUS. BY W. 11. LINDSEY, ARCHITECT. LONDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO. HARWICH: J. SMITH. J. SMITH, PRISTEB., HARWICH. TO JOHN BAGSHAW^ ESQUIKE, M.P., THE TRIED, DEVOTED FRIEND, AND REPRESENTATIVE OF THE INTEREST AND WELFARE OF THE BOROUGH AND PORT OF HARWICH, IS, BY PERMISSION, RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, BY HIS HUMBLE, OBEDIENT, AND OBLIGED SERA'ANT, W. H. LINDSEY. 2090818 PHEFACE. The first historical account of Harwich and Dovercourt, that we have any knowledge of, was compiled about the year 1732, by j\Ir. Samuel Dale, wdio took for the foundation of his work the MS. notes of an author whom he thus introduces to the public : — " This MS. of collections was made about the ye£iv 1676, by one Mr. Silas Domville, alias Taylor, keeper of the King-'s Stores at Harwich, not long" before his death ; this his curiosity mig-ht prompt him to, he living- at the place, and being- a lover of antiquities, a person of leisure, and a member of the Corporation, whereby he had access to the books and records, both of the church and boroug-h. Whether he designed ever to publish these his collections, or only writ them for the satisfaction of himself and friends, is to me mi- known : but whatever were his intentions, they were prevented by the thread of his life being-, not long' after, cut offj and dying in debt, all lus MSS. and papers were, tog*ether with his g-oods, seized on by his creditors, and so dispersed. "This MS. coming- into my hands some years after, tliroug-h the favour of a friend, the curiosity of it made me desirous of copying* it, not only as it related to a place in the county in which I was an inhabitant, but also because I had before been divers times at the place, to observe the natural curiosities thereof, but especially the cliff", whose various imbedded fossils I had there discovered ; the first invention of which the late Dr. Woodward in public company attributed to me. Afterwards, whatever I foimd in my reading-, IV. PUEFACK. relating" unto Ilnrwicli, 1 transcribed into tlie lett-hand l)ag'e of my copy, (the original being- only written on the rig-ht,) and thus I con- tinued to do for divers years, without any view or desig'n of publish- ing- them myself, not being- without hopes tliat they mig-ht be of some use to a better hand, who mig-ht undertake the jiublication either of a g-eneral Histor}- of England, or particular one of this county, for Avhicli cause I never declined lending- them to any of my acquaint- ance, whose curiosity miglit lead them to desire a perusal. But after a long- waiting- without effect, besides years increasing- upon me, and being- loth that they should be altogether buried in oblivion, by their being, after my decease, torn to pieces as waste papers, or destroyed by mice and vermin, I resolved to send them abroad myself, in the dress they now appear " (in.) Between the time when Mr. Taylor's notes cease, and that when Mr. Dale published his work, several publications were issued from the press, toucliing incidentally on the affairs of the Borough, of which this author availed himself largely, and brought tlie Ilistory of Harwich and Dovercourt down to the period when his work was first printed. After this, no publication, exclusively devoted to Harwich, seems to have been written, till, in the year 1808, appeared an anonymous work, called " The Ilaricich Guided ]\Ir. WJiite, of Sheffield, a topographical writer, has furnished matter of much interest, relatino; to Harwich and the neigh- Lourhood, in his description of the County of Essex ; and the same may be said of Courtney's History of Ipswich, whose interests are inseparable from those of Harwich : Kirby, the historian of Suffolk ; Morant's Essex ; and numerous other authors have been consulted with advantage, and are acknow- ledged in the body of the work. For much of the information contained in these pages I am indebted to influential gentlemen connected with the town, and others in the neighbourhood, particularly to John Bagshaw, Esq., M.P. for Harwich, with- out whose valuable assistance it is more than probable "A Seasoji at Ilarxcich''' would not have been produced. PREPACK. In addition to the free access to his valuable library, and collection of Natural History, this gentleman has been kind enough to furnish me with much original information resulting from his personal knowledge, and intimate acquaintance with the affairs of the town and the vicinity, which I could not otherwise have obtained; and I consider it no small addition to his past favours, that he has allowed me to dedicate the work to him ; and thus securing for it an amount of consideration which its intrinsic value would have failed to obtain. I have also to acknowledge, with thanks, the contributions of the Rev. Sir John Page Wood, of Glazenwood House, Bart., and of Wm. Colchester, Esq., for the short account of the fossils, &c., found in the neighbouring shores ; I am obliged to Professor Owen for kindly correcting this part of our subject, and to Clarkson Stanfield for his valuable assistance. And I am greatly indebted to that excellent man, and benefactor to Harwich, Capt. Washington, R. N., for much valuable information. For permission to make the copy of the old map of Harwich in the possession of the Corporation, I have to thank Francis Hales, Esq., the respected ex-mayor of the Borough ; and the Rev. R. Bull, M.A., for the use of his sketch of Ramsey Church, and permission to inspect his valuable and rare specimens of fossils. Nor can I pass over my obligations to R. R. Barnes, Esq., for the use of his sketches of the old Light-Houses and Church, as well as for other useful memoranda of things long since passed away ; and I trust the inhabitants of the Borough will accept my thanks for their courtesy and general willingness to afford me assistance on all occasions. Lastly, I have to acknowledge the favours received from the Rev. George Burmester, M. A., for the use of a sketch of Oakley Church Tower, with the Wood Engraving of the National Schools, and in his permitting extracts from the early Church Register. The other Drawings have all been made on the spot expressly for this work. PREFACE. I may mention, that Dr. Bremmer — though his name, of course, is a fictitious one — is the type of a worthy Physician, who was for many years in the habit of recommending to his patients the air of Harwich and its neighbourhood, on account of his conviction of its salubrity and the benefit arising from a sojourn in the locality; but, for solid reasons, I am not allowed to give his real name : he has been heard frequently to express regret, as many others have done, that the accommodation at Harwich was so limited that but few, comparatively, could participate in the advantages of the situation ; an objection there is every reason to hope will soon cease to exist. In conclusion, I have to state that much delay has taken place in the production of this book, occasioned by difficulties almost inseparable from a local publication ; but it is less to be regretted now, as it affords me the pleasing duty of announcing that the Railway, so often mentioned in the following pages, is to be immediately constructed, and which will thus open the long-looked-for communication with the metropolis. 94, Gloucester Place, Kentish Towx, Loxdox, May, 1851. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. PAGE In -which the reader is introduced to several people with whom he was previously unacquainted . . . . . . . 9 CHAPTER I. In which the travellers begm their journey . . . . . . 12 CHAPTER II. In which the travellers reach Colchester, and visit the principal objects of interest m that to^^ia . . . . . . . . 23 CHAPTER III. The portfolio, in which '^^'ill be found several objects of interest on the Eastern Counties' Railway . . . . . . 30 CIL\PTER IV. In which the joiuTiey is concluded .. ..43 CHAPTER V. In which some of our party make their first acquaintance with Harwich 55 CHAPTER YI. In which is determined the next day's visit ; and also an account given of the Doctor's Museum . . 77 CHAPTER YU. First excursion. — The party visit Dovercourt on their way to Walton and the Sokens . . . . . . . . 82 CHAPTER Till. The visit to the town, and showing how the Borough of Har^^-ich is governed . . 97 CHAPTER IX. In which vnll be found a description of the ^Mai'ket — a visit to Land- guard Fort — and an excursion to Felixtow and the Trimleys 126 CHAPTER X. The OrweU River — and excursions to Ipswich by land and water 152 CHAPTER XL Excursion to Manningtree, Mistley, etc . . . . 179 CHAPTER XII. Pleasure-trips by land and water — the Regatta — and conclusion of the Narrative 191 *#* For Contents to Part II, see Inde.v. LIST OF PLATES. 1. Map of Harwich, and the surrounding Country Frontispiece. 2. The Title Page. PACE 3. Map of Eastern Counties' Railways and Lines in CONNECTION 12* 4. View of the Breakwater 52 0. Mr. Bagshaw's House .56 6. Mr. Bagshaw's Hall 64 7. Upper Light-house 70 8. Map of Harwich in 1709 . . 68 9. DovERCouRT Church .82 10. Church Street . . 108 11. The Harbour 112 12. The Ship Yard 117 13. The Club House and Jetty 127 14. The Trimleys 141 1.5. Ramsey Church . . 170 16. The Esplanade .vnd Lower Light-house . . 195 ■» We have been favoured with the Map of the various Railways in the East-Anglian district, which is considered a valuable addition to the work. PART I. "OGSasS^^"^^ SI $tMm at 33antiirli. IN WHICH THE READER IS INTRODUCED TO SEVERAL PEOPLE WITH WHOM HE WAS PREVIOUSLY UNACQUAINTED. R. BENSON was a g-entleman who, eng-ag-ed in tlie early portion of" his hfe in mercantile affairs, and for- tunate enoug'li to realize a larg-e amount of money by his sjieculations, had just determined to embark in still more gigantic operations, when domestic misfortunes induced him to alter his views, and eventually to abandon altogether the pursuits of commerce. He had been, early in life, united to au amiable and accomplished woman, whose affection soothed the daily anxieties inseparable from his course of business, and whose tender solicitude for theii" children, and diligent attention to all the duties of a wife and mother, promised liim a life of comfort and an old ag'e of jjeace. The wisdom of Providence, however, which has appointed change as the characteristic of all sublunary affairs, de^i'eed that this state of things should underg-o an alteration. Mrs, Benson was attacked with a ling-ering disease, and, notAvithstanding all the cares of her husband and the skill of the most eminent physicians, whom he summoned to attend her, she expired in tht; arms of her heart- stricken partner. For many weeks after her death, Jlr. Benson was absorbed in grief 5 but time, which destroys and scatters our joys, also mitigates our sorrows and heals the Avounds of the henrt, tliouu-h caused by 10 A SEASON AT HARWICH. the sharpest afllictioiis : a tciuli'r melanclioly succeeded, and lie tlu'ii detenuiiicd to abandon hi8 comnicrcial occupations, and devote his wliole time to th(! care and instruction of his family. He ]irocured the assistance of Miss Arclier, a hidy who, thoug-h still yount^-, was in every respect (pialified to conduct the education of his only daughter, who had been named Elizabeth, after his lamented wife, at the time of whose death she had nearly reached the interesting' ag"e of sixteen. He resolved to undertake himself the tuition of his two sons — Henry and Charles — the former being* fourteen, the latter twelve years of age ; and for this task he was eminently fitted, both by extensive and varied knowledge, and })ractical experience of the world. Elizabeth, while she inherited from her mother an unrivalled gracefulness of form and loveliness of person, seemed, to the anxious eyes of her father, to have also derived a fragility of constitution which was a source of constant alarm and anxiety to him ; and, to a certain extent, his fears were soon afterwards realized. The same insidious disease which had carried off his wife in the })rime of her existence, now threatened to de})rive him of liis beloved daughter ; the vigour of youth, however, proved sufficient, with the aid of the consummate skill of Dr. Bremmer, to combat the disease Avith suc- cess 5 and although she still remained languid from the effects of the disorder, the fond father felt that his child was preserved to him ; and as he held her in his arms, he fervently and reverently thanketl that Power which had left him in the possession of the treasure he had feared was about to be lost to him for ever. It was in the month of June that Dr. Bremmer pronounced the young lady to be " out of danger 5" but, at the same time he en- joined the greatest care, and suggested the propriety of change of air and sea-bathing, as a meiius of perfecting the cur<', and pre- venting a recurrence of the attack. After a consultation as to the most eligibh; watering-}»lace to select, the worthy Physician men- tioned HarwicJj, as being within an easy distance fi'om town, and, at the same time, intimated that he should have occasion to visit that port frequently during the summer. This decided the question, and it only remained to make preparations for the journey. Harwich was the native town of Dr. Bremmer, and wishing to INTRODUCTION, 11 secure a place of retirement, in wliicli lie might pass liis declining- years, in preparation for the final change, he had purchased a house at the adjoining village of Dovercourt, whitlier, so often as his pro- fessional avocations permitted, he was accustomed to repair for the relaxation of his mind and the improvement of his bodily health. Mr. Benson was, therefore, highly gratified by the announcement of the good doctor, that he would accompany the familj'-; and accepted, without hesitation, his hospitable invitation to take up their residence with him until he was able to select a suitable dwelling for himself and fiimil3\ It was arranged that they should travel by the Eastern Counties' Railway to Colchester, and, taking their carriage and liorses by the same conveyance, drive to Harwich, and proceed at once to the residence of Dr. Bremmer. With regard to the luggage, some difficulty at first presented itself to the family, but was reduced to a shadow by the prompt suggestion of the doctor — that the servants with the exception, of course, of the coachman, should be conveyed to the Terminus at Shoreditch, with the luggage, in an omnibus ; and by reference to that very useful little book — Bolton''s Omnibus Guide — the time was ascertained, and ever}^ thing was prepared for their departure in the mornins". n '2 13 A SEASON AT HARWICH. .„.--'^:nriv^^.' EISHOPSGATE TERMINUS. CHAPTER I. IN WHICH THE TRAVELLERS BEGIN THEIR JOURNKT- ^ LTHOUGH Mr. Benson and his family arrived at tlie Terminus nearly an lionr before the time of starting', j^, being" compelled thereto by the reg-nlations of the Rail- /i/way Company with respect to the conveyance of the carringe, Dr. Bremmer was not much later tlian they ^^ were, and gave as his reason, that he did not like being hurried in the commencement of a journe}'^, but always contrived to have time to look about him, and make his remarks on every object that pre- sented itself to his notice. The result of these habits of observation was soon aj>preciated by his fellow-travellers, when they found him an inexhaustible source of information on the subject of the line of Riulway on which they tvavelled. Taking their seats in a first-class carriage, of which one compart- ment was just sufficient for them, they commenced the journey. The colour, which the excitement of expectation called into the cheeks of Elizabeth, was hailed by the fond father as a happy pre- sage of renewed health and sti-ength, while the pleasure which danced in the eyes of the two boys fully evinced their participation in tjic feelings of their sister. Miss Archer, who had been more < < a: ui Z O u H to < a. < MAP OF EASTERN COUNTIES RAILWAY tND LIMES IK CONNEXION THEHEWITH: Also Slipimi? (listaiii f N {rtmi H;(miili to \tuhjiw CONTINENTAL PORTS. # CHAPTER I. 13 accustomed to travelling- than the young people, did not indeed experience the delig-litfiil emotions which novelty ever excites in the mind of" youth, hut she could not fail to enjoy tlie heauty of the scene, enhanced as it was hy an unclouded sky and a halmy and health-hestowing- breeze. The first part however of their journey led throug-h the densely popidated district of Spitalfields, in which many of the houses seemed to he in such a dilapidated condition that nothing- could prevent their being- thrown down by the next hig-h wind. On the roofs of many of the houses Avere pigeon-cots, and the two boys, who con.sidered themselves rather learned on the subject, more than once expressed theii* admiration of the beauty of the birds which strutted and plumed themselves as the train passed by, seemingh' quite unscared by a noise to which they had become accustomed. Dr. Bremmer explained that these pig-eons were, g-eneraUy, the propert}-^ of the poor weavers of the district, whose ancestors being- driven from France, by the revocation of the edict of Nantes by Louis XIV., settled in this quarter ; and, in addition to the establishment of a flourishing- trade, brought with them many of tlie national tastes, some of which, among- others this fancy for pigeons, have descended to their posterity. " Not very many years ag-o," continued Dr. Bremmer, "the houses tenanted by the weavers mig-lit have been distinguished by the superior cleanliness of their appearance, and the pots of garden fltawers which ornamented the windows ; but since the decay of the trade, by the introduction of more complicated machinery, the stern strug-g-le for existence appears to have annihilated this taste, and in many cases the breeding of pigeons is carried on more as a source of gain than as a gratification of the breeders taste." The Doctor also mentioned that a large portion of grouud had lately been inclosed as a park, for the recreation of those living at the east-end of the metropohs, and that it extended fi-om very near the Haclcney Road on one side, to the Temple Mills, a famous place of resort to the East-end London angler, on the other. It had been named Victoria Park, and is, no doubt, a great boon to the iuha- bitants of the neighbourhood. Ou arriving- at the station at Stratford, Dr. B. remarked thai vast 14 A SEASON AT HARWICH. cliang'es had taken place in the method of travelhng- since the time when Matilda, the Queen of Henry I. passing- the ford at this place, suffered the infliction of " a g'ood washing-," which induced her to build a bridg-e over the river Lea, that was afterwards known as Bow Bridg-e, " I suppose," said Elizabeth, '^ the town orig-inally took its name from the ford you speak of." The Doctor replied that such was the case, in common with many other towns which were similarly situated, and bear the same name, the first part being- expressive of the old Roman street, or way, which, on this line of road, extended as far as Colchester. "The bridg-e built by Matilda," said Miss Archer, "has, no doubt, long- ceased to exist." " By no means," said Dr. Bremmer, " it was standing- till so late a period as 1838, when the new one was built, at an expense of .d 1,000. But the old one had been so often repaired that it would have been difficult, if not impossible, to ascertain how much remained of the orig-inal structure. Bow Bridg-e had the rents of a mill, called Wig-g-en Mill, and certain manors devoted to its rej)ara- tion ; the due appropriation of which money was intrusted to the abbess of Barldng-, but on the foundation of Stratford Abbey, in 1135, by William de Montfichet, the trust was transferred to the latter institution." JMr. Benson having- inquired what order of monks the abbey was intended to accommodate, the Doctor replied, that they were Cis- tercians, and that the abbey was dedicated to the Virg-in Mar^^ and All Saints. " The monks of old," observed Miss Archer, " I believe, g-enerally selected the most elig'ible sites for their monasteries." " In this particular they acted as au}^ person or society of persona would have done, if they intended to build a house for themselves ; but it was not always in their power to choose a site, since the founder of a monastery had not alwa3's land suitable for the erection of such a building- : for instance, in this very case, it does not appear that the situ-ation was at all Avell chosen ; for, not many years after the foundation, the building- was so injured by the floods that the monks abandoned the place, and took refug'e at Burg-stede, near Billericay, CHAPTER r. 15 wliere tlioy remained till the monastery was rdinilt by Riclitird IT., when they returned, and to use the quaint lang-uag-e of the chronicles of the time, '■ among-e the marshes they re-inhahyted.' " " In addition to these remarks of Dr. Bremmer, he said that this ahhey, the possessions of which were considera]>le, afforded an asylum to the unfortunate Countess of Salisbury, whom the remorse- less tyrant, Henry VIII., caused to be beheaded, in her old ag"e, on a charg'e of treason. The abbey, on its suppression, was valued at £652. .3. .Ij per annum, and was presented by the King- to Sir Peter Mantis, who had been ambassador to the court of France. This monastery was one of the few existing- in Eng-land that was surrounded })y a moat, which here inclosed an area of sixteen acres ; but, with the exception of a g-othic g-ateway and a Ijoundary wall, nothing- now remains to mark the site of this once flom-ishing- insti- tution. On a portion of the g-round, now stand the silk-printing; works of Mr. J. Tucker. The station at Stratford attracted the notice of Mr. Benson, on account of the extent of the buildings connected with it ; and Dr. Bremmer informed liim that a hundred houses had been pulled down to fimiish a site, suliiciently larg-e to accommodate the Rail- way Company, for the construction of the buildings required for various purposes; others, however, had been built to suppl}' the places of the houses demolished, and a new toTsm had thus sprung- up in the neig-hbourhood, on which the name of Hudson Town had been conferred. Miss Archer inquired whether this was the Stratford where the fii-st manufactory of g'utta percha was estabhshed. Mr. Benson said that the first manufacture of it was carried on in the City Road, and g-ave the following- account of the introduc- tion of this useful article into Eng-land. About the yeiu- 1842, a specimen of it was sent, by the missionaries at Sing-apore, to the Society of Arts in this country, in order that they mig-ht ascertain whether it were practicable to use the article in manufactures. The investig-ation was intrusted to ]\Ir. Charles Hancock, who, in con- junction with a g-entleman resident in Ireland, commenced, in 184:5, the manxifacture of several articles, for which they obtained i)atents, and in the following- year extensive works were erected, first in the 1(3 A SEASON AT HARWICH. City Road, and afterwards at Stratford, It must not be .snpposerl that giitta perclia is to be obtained only from Sing-apore, for it is foimd tlirong'hoiit the ])eninsnla of Malacca and also in Borneo. It is produced from a tolerably-siiied tree, which, however, sometimes gTows so larg-e as to be six feet in diameter, but the average is about lialf that size. It is valued by the natives principally on account of its fruit ; but they are not unacquainted with the properties of the gaim, which they form into handles for their knives, forks, &c. The gntta percha is not extracted from the tree till it is cut down, when, on lacerating- the bark, it exudes throng-h the wound, and at first is of a milky n;itm''e, but soon coag'xdates. In answer to a question by Elizabeth, as to the form in wliich it was imported, ]Mr. Benson said, that it was broug-ht over in lumps, about the size of a cocoa-nut, which are torn to pieces by machinery, cleaned, rolled and reduced into the varioFus forms in which we see it. They had now reached Ilford Station, and Dr. Bremmer informed the travellers that about a mile to the north of the town, whence the station takes its name, was Valimtmes, famous for its larg-e and fruitful vine, which was planted in 1758, and some years ag'o yielded three hundred weig'ht of g'rapes annually. In the same garden was also to be seen a tulip tree, upwards of fourteen feet in girth and eig-hty feet high. " But the monarch of trees," added the Doctor, "in this neigiibourhood, was Fairlop oak, in Hidnault forest, the trunk of which was thirty-six feet in circum- ference, while the branches spread over an area of three hundred feet." "Is this then the place where the celebrated Fairlop Fair is held ?" inqiiired Henry. " The same," said Dr. B., " and the tree I speak of first gave rise to the holding- of the fair, which originated in this way : — about a huntlred and fifty years ago, Mr. Day, a block and pump maker, of Wapping, commenced having an annual dinner with his friends, ])erlia})S his workmen, imder the shadow of this venerable tree. After a short time other parties were formed, in London, on Mr. Day's anniversary ; suttling booths were erected for their accom- modation, and these continued to increase, till the place assumed the aj)pearanco of a regndar fair, on the annual return of the first Friday CHAPTER I. 17 in July. A few years before Mr. Day died, his favorite oak lost a larg-e limb, out of wliicli bis coffin was made. His deatb took place in 1707, at tbe ag-e of eig-bty-four, and be was buried at Barking. Tbe fair is still kept up, tboug-Ji tbe oak is no long-er standing-. A portion of it was converted into tbe pul[)it of jNew St. Pancras cburcb in Euston Square, London." " Is it not in tbe vaults of tins cburcb tbat tbe remains of Westall, tbe painter, are deposited ?" was tbe inquiry of Miss Arcber. " Yes," re])lied Mr. Benson ; " poor Westall ! bis band g-uided tbe infant pencil of ber present Majesty, bi;t no stone marks wbere be Hes." Tbe next station was tbat of Eomford, situate close to tbe town of tbat name, wliicb tbe Doctor said was, in liis opinion, derived fi'om tbe little I'iver Rom, wbicli runs tbroug-b it. " It is true," "■ be added, '' tbat Doctor Stukeley supposes tbat it is of Roman origin, and even asserts it to be tbe DuroJ'dnm of Antoninus: Letbieulbes imagines its present name to be a contraction of Roman Ford ; wbile Lyson declares tbe name to be pure Saxon and to mean ' broail ford.' " Mr. Benson, smiling- at tbe display of learning- made by Ids friend, said, be supposed tbey were all equally in tbe dark on tbe subject, and inquired what was tbe present state of tbe town. " Tbe population of tbe towai amounts to nearly 7000," said Dr. Bremmer, " and tbe union, of wbicb Romford is tbe bead, contained, at tbe last census, no less tban 22,210 inbabitants, and tbe number is, no doubt, mucb larg-er at present." On reaching- Brentwood Station, Mr. Benson was struck witb tbe beauty of tbe architecture displayed in tbe building-, and inquired what style it belong-ed to. Tbe Doctor said it was a very g-ood revival of tbe late Tudor style; and pointed out to bis fellow-travellers bow well the red brick and stone, of wbicb it was built, contrasted witli tbe l»lue sky and gTeen landscape, wbicb were tbe onl}- objects with wbicb it could be compared. Tbe whole party ag-reed, tbat it was a very handsome building*. " I suppose," said Mr. Benson, " from the care bestowed on the station, tbat Brentwood is a place of some importance." 18 A SEASON AT HARWICH. Dr. B. said tliat it was a very ini))rovirm- town ; and, bring- seated on a commanding- eminence, in a i)ictni'es(jn(! and finely woodiul district, it is the chosen residence of many wealtliy citizens of Lon- don, wlu), attending" daily to their business in the metropolis, return in the evening- by the Railway. There are also many g'entry who reside here constantly, and the whole population amounted, in 1841, to 236-4 persons. The coimty m-ag-istrates have determined to erect an extensive Lunatic As^dum, in or near the town, for the poor of the county of Essex af&icted with this dreadful malady. Dr. Bremmer also informed them, that the far-famed Laindon, or Lang-don Hills, were not farther from Brentwood than eig-ht or nine miles. " From the summit of these liills," said he, " on a clear day, the course of the Thames may be traced from London to the Medway ; while the view embraces the vast valley lying- between this range, and the chalk hills of Kent on the other side of the river." The view mentioned by the Doctor, is thus described by Mr. Yoimg-, in his work on the Southern Counties : — " On the summit of a vast hill, one of the most astonishing prospects to be beheld, breaks out almost at once, upon one of the dark lanes. Such a pro- dig'ious valley, every where painted with the finest verdure, and intersected with numberless hedges and woods, appears beneath you, that it is past description. The Thames winding- throug-h it, fidl of ships, and boimded by the hills of Kent. Nothing- can exceed it, unless that which Hannibal exhibited to his disconsolate troops, when he bade them behold the g-lories of the Italian plains. If a tiu'npike road should lead throug-h this country, I beg- you will g-o and view the enchanting- scene, though a joiu'ney of forty miles is necessary for it. I never beheld any thing- equal to it in the west of England — that garden of landscape." So intent had been the Doctor on the subject of the Laindon Hills, which he considered to be one of the g-reatest ornaments of liis native county, that Ing-atestone Station was passed without observation ; and they were now approaching- the chief town in the county. " I presume," said Mr. Benson, " that Chelmsford, being- the county town of Essex, is not deficient in local historians and tojio- g-raphers." CHAPTER I. 19 " It is," said the Doctor, " a natural supposition ; but, strang-cly enoug'hj the town has received little or no attention from the histo- rians of the county." " Perhaps," said Miss Archer, " the traditions of the place were not considered to be of sufficient importance to be embodied in history." "And yet," said Dr. B., "it must have participated larg-cly in the stirring' events of Eng'lisli history ; situated, as it is, in tlie liig-h road between London and Colchester, it must have been affected by the wars of the Roses, and the civil war between Charles I. and his parliament." " It is, then, a town of some antiquity," said Miss Archer. " The earliest authentic notice of it," replied Dr. Bremmer, " that I have been enabled to discover, is a record in Domesday Book, wherein it is called Chelmerfort, and Chelmersforda. It derived its name from an ancient ford over the i-iver Chelmer, but first be- came of some importance in the reig'n of Henry I., Avhen IMaurice, bishop of London, built a bridg'e over the Can, and so broug-ht the direct road from London through the town ; after which it increased rapidly in importance, and in the reign of Edward III. sent four members to parliament." " The town, then, appears to be indebted, almost for its existence^ to this bishop," said Miss Archer. "I suppose there was some motive for the interest he took in the welfare of the villag-e, as it must have been at this time." " It formed a portion of the possessions of the bishops of London," said Dr. B., " at the time, and, indeed, remained in their liamls till the reig'n of Henry VIIL, to whom it was surrendered by bisliop Bonner. It was held by the Crown till 15G3, when Queen Ehzabetli granted the town and manors to Thomas Mildmay, Esquire, in whose ftimily tlie greatest portion of it still remains." " Does Chelmsford continue to send members to parliament ?" asked Henry. " Not by itself," said his father ; " but it is the principal place of polling for the Southern Division of the county." " Unless, indeed," said Dr. Bremmer, smiling, " yoii reckon the members for Mesopotamia." 20 A SEASON AT HARWICH. *' I do not recollect an}' parliamentary boroug'li of that name," observed Mr. Benson. " rs o," said tlie Doctor, '^ it is a sort of mock-election, similar to that wliich formerly took place at Garrett in Surrey, and occurs at every g-eneral election. Mesopotamia is a small island behind the Duke's Head Inn, where '■ every accommodation is provided for the candidates and their friends ;' and '• the committee sit daily in the immediate vicinity of the husting-s.' While the poll is open, the candidates parade the streets on horseback, each attended by a page, and, at the close, the members elected for this peculiar jurisdiction are chaired throug'h the town on men's shoulders, and afterwards duckeil in the river. The honor of submersion is also conferred on the unsuccessful candidates, and the business of the day is concluded by breaking- the chairs. It is, no doubt, to this custom that Gray, in his notes to Hudibras, alludes, where he says '■ that the town of Chelmsford was formerly incorporated, and successively g'overned by a tinker, a tailor, and a cobbler.' " " What could have been the orii>-in of this ridiculous custom ?" inquired Elizabeth. "No douljt," said Mr. Benson, "it was first promoted by the authorities of the town, to amuse the people, during' the excitement attendant on a general election." " Is Chelmsford a populous place ?" asked Charles. " The return in 1841," replied the Doctor, " g-ives G,751 as the amount of the population, thoug-li the number has, no doubt, g-reatly increased since that time, as many new houses have been erected, which are now mostly inhabited. The construction of the railway, indeed, seems to have given new energy to the inhabitants \ whole streets have been formed by pubhc-spirited compnnies ; new churches built, and the county gaol remodelled on the principle of the prison at Pentonville." " It is a melancholy reflection," said Mr. Benson, " that the con- struction of prisons is always attendant on any advance in civiliza- tion." " Nay," said the Doctor, " I must differ from you on that subject, since every improvement in prison-architecture, which has been made of late years, has tended to the amehoration of the condition of the CHAPTEU I. 21 prisoners. Every attention is now paid to the care of their health and reformation ; and vast indeed has been the advance since the time when, in tliis very town, no less than fourteen unhappy females were executed in one year, for the alleged crime of witchcraft." " But," said Miss Archer, " you are g-oing buck to the dark ages." " Dark indeed was the age," answered the Doctor, " when such transactions could take place ; but tlie time I allude to was little more than two centuries since, for these women were put to death in 1645." " The trials of these unfortunate victims to the ignorance of the age," said the Doctor, after a pause, " suggest many curious ideas in the minds of pliilosophers. Baron Duporte considers it impos- sible to escape the conviction that these poor creatures actually exercised a magnetic influence over others, and exhibited in their own persons the various phenomena of somnambuHsm, complete ph3^sical insensibility, convulsions, pre-vision, and clairvoyance." " But surely, Doctor, yoiL do not believe in all these phenomena," said Mr. Benson. " I have seen them," said Doctor Bremmer, " and am bound to believe in their actual occurrence \ with regard to the cause, I, in common with every thinking man, suspend my behef till the science, at present only in its infancy, is either developed to a level with the other sciences, or exploded altogether." '' It must be owned," said Mr. Benson, " that the science, if it is one, has met with rather a rough reception from the pidjlic." "Yes," said Dr. B., "and in the fanatical age, of which we have been speaking, it is not wonderful that the remarkable })henomena exhibited should be attributed to demoniacal agency ; but what sui-- prises me is, that judges, and men of distinguished learning and refined education, should fall into the same error." " They did not ;" rephed Mr. Benson, " but regarding the per- sons charged with witchcraft as general poisoners, they had no more pity for them than the most ignorant of the mob." Mr. Benson, not feeUng inclined to proceed with the subject, said, that he believed Dr. Goldsmith resided some time at Chelmsford, which was confirmed by the Doctor, who added, that he lived during that time at Springfield, the northern subiu'b of the town. On the oo A SEASON AT HARWICH. river Moulsliam, formerly stood a Dominican Priory, the ruins of which might have been seen till a very recent period. This priory was valued, at the dissolution, at £9 . . 6 . . 5, and was gTanted to Anthony Bonvixi, but soon afterwards passed into the hands of the Mildmay family, who seem to have been the general recipients of all the good things which were given away in the neighbourhood. Thomas Longford, the author of several Uterary productions, was a friar in tliis religious house. On arriving at Witham Station, the Doctor said, that Witham- grove, a fine old mansion, had the honor of a visit from the Princess Charlotte, the bride of George III., on her way to London, having landed at Hai-wich the day before. Witham also claims attention as the birth-place of Sir John Suckling, distinguished by his genius and loyalty to the Stuarts, of which latter he gave a convincing- proof, by spending £12,000 in raising and keeping in pay a troop of horse for tlieir service. Little more was said till their arrival at Colchester, except that Dr. Bremmer gave a learned description of a circular camp, which Avas to be found on a neighboiu-ing eminence, the particulars of which, however, we will not inflict on the reader. L-^bEX HALL AND RAILWAY BEIDGE. C(.lch stei Station ^ 23 CHAPTER II. IN WHICH THE TRAVELLERS ARRIVE AT COLCHESTER, AND VISIT THE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THAT TOWN, N reacliing" Colchester, Mr, Benson and his family f^"^^^^^ proceeded to the Three Cups Hotel, in the Hi^-h Street, '?i-^ ''^ytT-s^'?/ where they purposed to remain till the next morning-, ^^W: and, having- ordered dinner, were about, under the g'uidance of Dr. Bremmer, to visit the principal places worthy of notice in the town, when an addition to the party took place, by the arrival of Walter Howard, the nephew of Mr, Benson, who had been for some time on a professional tour, as an artist, taking- sketches of the different objects of interest, connected with architec- ture in this part of Essex, and who, having- received intelligence of the proposed journey of his uncle and cousins, had hastened to join them. The first salutations, and introduction to Dr, Bremmer, ]>eing- over, they prepared, with this reinforcement, to carry their origimd intention of viewing- the town into effect. Passing- down the Hig-h Street, their attention was calletl, b}' the Doctor, to the position of the church of St. Rimwald, occui)ying- as it does, the centre of the street, obstrxxcting- the traffic, and spoiling- the effect which would be produced if this unsig-htly edifice, and the shops wliich stand in a similarly obstructive position, Avere removed. He added, that it had lain in ruins for a period of a hundred years, tiU the bad taste of the age of the second Georg-e suggested its resto- ration, wliich was completed in the year 1760. He congTatulated liimself, however, on the improvement which had taken place in the ideas of liis own generation, inasmuch as the paving- commissioners had determined to remove it, as well as the houses which form the middle row. The Doctor now letl the way to the castle, wliich is situate on an eminence a Httle to the north of Hig-h Street, and the Beusons were 24 A SEASON AT IIAHWIC'II. COLCHESTER CASTLE. delig'lited witli tlie prospect of tlie valley, with tlie silver Colne winding- tlirong-li it. From the anxiety disi)la3'eJ by Dr. Bremraer to le;id tlieni to the place, they expected that the castle was, or had been, a place of much g'reater importance than could be inferred fi-om its dimensions, and Walter was surprised and amused with the anti- quarian lore with which they were favoured by their worthy guide. He desci-ibed the fortress as of Roman origin ; lie g"ave the veritable liistory of that universally - celebrated, yet little -known character, King" Coel, who liberally bestowed his name on the castle, the town, and even the very river which first invited the Romans to establish a colony here. He narrated the various vicissitudes underg'one, during* the Saxon sway, the Danish invasions, and the turbulent times after the conquest, and finally gave a gTaphic description of the sieg-e which the towTi sustained in 1G48, against Lord Fairfax ; and, not forget- ting* to mention the privations endured by the inhabitants, he j)ointed out the dungeon which formed the last lodging of those martyrs to the cause of royalty — Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle. Sir Barnard Gascoyne was also confined here, and, being con- demned to death with the other two, prepared to meet his fate ; but the officer informed liim he had orders to carry him back to his CHAPTER II. M-J fi'iends, which tlien appeared to have been but a matter of indiffer- ence to him. The council of war liad considered that if tliey took the hfe of a foreigner, who seemed to be a })erson of quaHty, their own children and friends visiting- Italy mig-ht pay dearly for it for many g-enerations j and, therefore, they commanded the officer, when the other two should be dead, to carry him back to the other prisoners. Mr. Benson now proposed that, as their stay was to be a short one, they should proceed to view the other parts of the town. On arriving- at St. Nicholas, Miss Archer having- incpiired tlie reason for placing- a wooden tower to the church, Avas duly informed by the Doctor, that the orig-inal tower having- fallen throug-h the roof aljout one hundred and fifty years ag-o, while uiiderg-oing- repair, the inhabitants had not yet thoug'ht it worth while to restore it, but had left it, as at present, partly in ruins. The travellers proceeding- next to East Bridg-e, (where the servants had been directed to wait with the carriage,) found this work a brick structure of five arches ; and, upon Elizabeth expressing- her surprise that such a material had been chosen for its construction, Dr. Bremmer hastened to inform her, that not half a centur}"^ had elapsed since there was only a wooden erection in its place. As he seemed rather piqued b}" the observation, Elizabeth made no reply ; and, having- entered the carriag-e, they enjoyed a pleasant drive on the Wivenlioe road, and retiu-ned into the town by the Hythe Bridg-e. This they found to be of wood, resting- on two columns of strong- piles, with neat iron railing- to defend the carriag-e-way ; its g-eneral lig-ht- ness giving- the appearance, to a distant observer, of a building wholly formed of this material. The Doctor here took occasion to observe, that formerly there was only a foot-bridge for passengers ; but, so early as 1473, a bridge was constructed for the convenience of carriages, and again rebuilt in 1737. This Avas a curious brick structure of three small arches, with buttresses that formed recesses on encli side the path- way, and had formerly been fiirnished with massive sluices or flood- gates, on wliicli time had produced such symptoms of decay, that it was found expedient to have it removed in 1838, and a new brick bridge was at once begun — one arch spanning the river — and was c 26 A SEASON AT HARWICH. prog-ressing towards completion, wlien it It'll in,* and the present structure soon occupied its place. At the end of Maji'dalen Street, they found the church of St. Giles, which, thoug-h not a very striking^ object in itself, derived considerable interest in the eyes of Mr. Benson, who was a staunch royahst, fi-om the Doctor's information, that in a vault of this church were interred the remains of Su- Charles Lucas and Sir Georg-e Lisle, who had been shot by order of General Fairfox after the siege of the town. An inscription, he said, had been graven on a marble slab, in which this military execution had been desig- nated as a barbarous murder. (" And correctly !" remarked ]\Ir. Benson, parenthetically.) " The Duke of Buckingham, however," continued the Doctor, without noticing the remark of his friend, " having married the daughter of Fairfax, applied to the king to have the inscription erased, as reflecting on the character of his father-in- law. Charles IL, who was never remarkable for his enthusiastic gra- titude to his followers, and the sufferers in his cause, woidd no doubt have willingly acceded to his re(piest, but first mentioned the matter to Lord Lucas. ' I will consent,' said that nobleman, ' to the erasure, if you will allow me to substitute for it an inscription to the effect — that Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle were barbarously mur- dered for their loyalty to Charles I., and that liis son, Charles IL, ordered the record of their loyalty to be erased.' The king, striick with the observation, is said to have immediately ordered the letters of the original inscription to be graven as deep as possible." They had now reached the site of St. John's Abbey, wliich fur- nished a fertile tlieme for the conversation of the antiquarian Doctor. By his account, it was founded in 1097, by Eudo Dapifer, though a wooden church stood previously on a portion of its site ; but it does not appear to have been very richly endowed by the founder, as two monks, who had been sent fi-om Rochester to dwell here, soon after- wards abandoned it, not being able to live on the pittance allowed for their support. Being next allotted to the Benedictine monks, * Unfortunately for the popularity of the Engineer, this catastrophe took place on the Jirst of April, 1839, and become the subject of an ample share of irony and animadversion m the local newspapers for several weeks after the circumstance. CHAPTER II. 27 nnd liberall}^ gifted by Eudo's nephew, it rose to the piivileg-es of a mitred abbey, whose abbot had a seat in parHament, and its revenues amounted, at the time of tlie suppression of monasteries, to the sum of £523. .17. .10 -per annum. " And what became of the abbot ?" asked Henry. " Was he allowed to retain possession of any portion of his income .'*" "No," replied the Doctor, "the last abbot, Jolin Beche, was hang-ed for den3ung' the supremacy of the king, upon tlie gallows which one of his predecessors had allowed the burgesses to erect at Greenstead, a suburb to the east of the town. The site of the abbey was gi'anted to Sir Thomas D'Arcy, for twenty-one years, by Hemy VIII., and the reversion by Edward VI. to the Earl of War-wick, from whom it passed to John Lucas, town clerk of Col- chester, who converted the abbey into a family seat, a circumstance that contributed greatl}^ to its destruction, during the civil Avars, when Sir John, afterwards Lord Lucas, with his younger brother Si:- Charles, espoused the royal cause. During the siege nearly the whole of the building was levelled to the ground by the guns of Fairfax. All that remain are, the splendid gateway, the porter's lodge, and a few monastic offices, now converted into a barn. From the rich carved work which adorns this gateway, and the solid blocks of hewn stone, streng-thened with flint, some notion may be formed of the ancient grandeur and importance of the edifice to which it formed the entrance ; yet no trace remains of the space occupied by the abbey and church, but the garden walls smTound an area of about fourteen acres. Conducted by the indefatigable Doctor, the travellers now jjro- ceeded to inspect the remains of the ancient walls, which still exist on the western side of the town. The wall, when entire, encompassed the greater portion of Colchester, inclosing a space of about 120 acres. The line, as far as it can be traced, remains unbroken, but the view is intercepted in many parts by the neighbouring- buildings, particidarly at the outlets, from which every vestige of the gates and posterns has disappeared. The portions which are in the best state of preservation, are those serving as the boundary walls of gardens and ])leasure p-rounds, particularly that of the Botanic Garden, within the north- c2 38 A SEASON AT HARWICH. east ang'le. The tliickness of the walls seems to have heen about seven or eiyht feet, and the material is stone, of that kind called septaria, (foimd in preat abundance on the northern part of the Essex coast,) mixed with Roman bricks of extraordinary hardness, which, fnmi their mutilated condition, appear to have been used in the construction of some still more ancient building's. Colchestei*, sometimes called Colon, probably fi'om the fact of its being- the first Colonia the Romans planted here, was no doubt fortified by themj and the walls, after being- successively repaired by the Saxons and Normans, remained in a tolerably perfect condition till the destructive sieg-e of 1648. The town had originally four gates — namely. Head Gate, North Gate, East Gate, and St. Botolph's, or South Gate — of which the last was still standings at so late a period as 1817. In addition to these principal g-ates, there were three posterns, called respectively the West Postern, wdiich was in the churchyard of St. Mary-at-the- Walls, the Schere, or south g-ate, and the Rye, or river gate. The recital of these particulars, while it gratified and amused his fi-iends and fellow-travellers, was particularly gratifying- to the antiquarian, as he rarely had an oppoi-tunity of exercising- his hohhy before so attentive a party. He had not, however, forgotten the i-emark of the fair Elizabeth on the material of the bridge, and, therefore, directed the coachman to proceed down Head Street, to the North Bridge. Dr. Bremmer, on arrival, after assisting Miss Benson and Miss Archer to alight fi'om the carriage, playfully solicited the ai)pi'()bation of tlie young lady, for the bridge before them ; and i-emarked, that as it was not built of " oljjectionable brick," but of good cast-iron, it could not ftiil to obtain her approval. Elizabeth, blushing slightly, expi*essed her admiration of the structure, which is handsome and spacious, and the expression was graciousty received by the Doctor, who mentioned that the bridge previously occupying- the site of tliis one was of red brick, but, though built so recently as in 1801, it had exhibited such decided symptoms of decay, that it was found necessary, about five years ago, to remove it, when it w\as rei)laced by the present one, executed from tlic design and uniler the superintendence of 3Ir. Braithwaite, civil engineer. CHAPTER II. 29 The hour nppointed for dinner liaving- Tiow anived, tlie travellers, pleased with their ramljle, returned to the hotel, and having enjoyed an excellent dinner, such as Mr. ChapHn knows well how to provide, the conversation naturally turned to the subject of the morning-'s exciu'sion. The Doctor expressed his regTet that their short stay would prevent them from seeing- many antiquities in the town worthy of observation, but said that he had in his library nt Dovercourt, a copy of Morant's History of Colchester, from which every information could be obtained. "■ I presume," said Mr. Benson, " that Mr. Morant was a native of the place, or at any rate of the county." The Doctor replied, that he was a native of Jersey, but that his interest in the locahty no doubt arose from the fact of his being' for many years rector of St. Mar3^-at-the- Walls, in this town, and also of Aldham, a villag-e about five miles distant. Walter Howard was now called upon to give an account of his tour in Essex, which had already occupied liim more than a month, but he excused himself on the plea that he had not the topographical knowledge, or antiquarian lore, which Dr. Bremmer possessed, but promised that he would pay more attention in future to subjects wliich, in good hands, bowing to the Doctor, could be made so interesting. The Doctor acknowledged the comphmentj still Elizabeth declared that nothing woidd satisfy her but the production of Walter's portfolio, in order, as she said laughingly, that his uncle might see whether he had been industriously engaged during his Essex rnmbles. As the least wish of his beautiful cousin was law to Wnlter, tjie portfolio was })roduced, and an inspection commenced. 30 A SEASON AT HARAVICir. CHAPTER III. THE PORTFOLIO, IN WHICH WILL BE FOUND SEVERAL OBJECTS OP INTEREST ON THE EASTERN COUNTIES' RAILWAY. R. BENSON had not seen any of liis nepliew's jii'oductions since his early self-tang"ht efforts as a hoy liad induced liim to recommend his hrother, Waher's i":ither, to procure instruction from tlie first masters in painting-, to quahfy him for the profession of an artist ; he was, therefore, particuhirl}^ desirous to ascertain the progress made hy his nephew ; and, indeed, e\anced as miicli interest as the young" people in tlie approaching- exhihition. The first drawing' submitted was a view of Thorndon Hall, the princel}' seat of the noble family of Petre. It is situate in the churchless parish of Horndon-West, about two miles fi'om Brent- wood. Walter, in descnbing" the subject of liis sketch, observed that the building- externally was faced with white, or what is com- monly called Suffolk brick, with stone dressing-s. The mansion is approached by an avenue leading- to the western front, which is very unpretending- in its appearance, and by no means to be compared with the eastern fa^-ade, which is composed of a Roman hexastyle Corinthian portico, with its emiched tympanum raised on a stylobate and pierced with semicircular-headed opening-s. The wing-s are connected by a circular corridor, that on the right being- occupied by the chapel. The Doctor expressed himself gratified with his nephew's per- formance, and observed, that the building- was originally designed and carried out b}" Paine, an architect of some celebrity in his day, but he believed that it subsequently had received considerable additions and improvements. The gi-eat hall, an apartment forty feet square, had been embellished with eighteen scaghola columns, and the dining-room enriched with numerous fine paintings, portraits of the finuily, with one of Henry VIIT. and another of Edw. VI., by CIIAPTEll III. 31 Holbein. Tliero are also portraits of James II., (said to be an excel- lent likeness,) the Earl Darnley, one of the Dukes of Bucking-ham, Joan of Arc, and some others. The drawing-room is also ornamented with some fine paintings ; there is one of Dowager Lady Petre and another of IMrs. Onslow, both by Cosway. A very elegant apart- ment is appropriated to the library, over the east corridor. In short, the whole of the interior is in good keeping, and in extent worthy the residence of an English nobleman. The park is two square miles in extent, amply wooded with trees of great variety and value, and especially remarkable for the fine statel}' oaks which contribute to the beauty of the landscape, and lend their aid to the many fine views here obtained of the Kentish shore, the Thames, and the hills beyond. In answer to a question from Mr. Benson, the Doctor said, that the founder of the noble family of Petre was Sir William Petre, who came into possession of the estate in the time of Queen Elizabeth. His son John was created Baron Petre, of Wiittle, in 1603, and the present Lord is the twelfth in succession. The subject of the next sketch was Weald Hall, situate at a short distance fi'om Brentwood. '' Like the seat of Lord Petre," said Walter, *' this mansion is enclosed in a park, and has besides some advantages not possessed by Thorndon Hall." "What are these?" inquired the younger members of the famih'. Walter explained, " that it is surrounded by pleasure grounds, gardens, and plantations, and that in different parts of the ])ark highly interestmg prospects are presented over richly cultivated parts of the county, of varied and picturesque beauty. In the park is also an ornamented embattled tower, rising to a considerable height, which has received the name of Prospect House, and from this elevation a more widely extended view is afforded, while the scene is rendered doubly picturesque by a flock of Cashmere goats which browse at its foot." The Doctor remarked that the manor of South Weald, whence the mansion derives its name, is one of the seventeen lordships which were given to Waltham Abbey, by Earl Harold, in lOGC, under the name of Wtdda. It was confirmed to that institution 32 A SEASON AT HARWICH. by Henry II. and Richard I., and continued in tlieir possession till 1540, when King- Henry VIII. sold it to Sir Brian Tuke, treasurer of his household. This g-entleuian had been sheriff of the county in 1033, and was a person of learnino- and eloquence. In 1547, his son, Georg-e Tuke, conveyed this estate to the Lord Chancellor llich, who is supposed to have sold it to Sir Anthony Browne, in 1536, king''s Serjeant, and in 1543, justice of the common pleas. It remained in possession of this family tiU it was sold by a descendant of Sir Anthony, of the same name, to Sir William Scrog-g's, a learned civilian, king's seijeant, and chief justice of chancery, whose g-randson, also named Sir William, conveyed the estate to Erasmus Smith, alderman of London, of an ancient and honourable family in Leicestershire. Hugh Smith, Esq., of this famil}^, modernised the ancient house, and made it what it now is, an extremely comfortable mansion. The centre part of the principal front is composed of six Koman Ionic eng"ag"ed columns, four of which are designed for a mock tetrastyle portico, surmounted by a pediment. Hugh Smith died in 1745, having- married Dorothy, daughter of the Honourable Dacre Lennard Barnett, of Alverley, by whom he left two daughters, Dorothy, married to the Honourable John Smith Bany, fourth son of James, Earl of Banymore, and Lucy, married to the Right Honourable James Stanley, Lord Strange, eldest son of Edward, Earl of Derb}' ; and on the decease of the latter, this manor descending- to her male issue, was by them sold to Thomas Tower, Esq., father of the present possessor, C. T. Tower, Esq., by whom it has been greatly improved and beautified. The honourable g-entleman, who is a most active magistrate for the county, sat in the parliament of 1832, as one of the two members for the Borough of Harwich. '' This," said Walter, producing- a sketch of Danbury Palace, " is the residence of the Bishop of Rochester, having- been purchased by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, together with a fine but not large estate, for the episcopal residence, in lieu of the ])alace at Bromley, in Kent, now out of the diocese. The rig-ht reverend possessor has made it more comj)lete by erecting- a very CHAPTER III. 33 beautiful chapel in the prevailing- style of architecture. The g-rounds have undergone gTeat improvements, and possess many new features of interest, the result of the well-directed taste of its benevolent possessor." "Is the building ancient?" inquired Mr. Benson. " No," said Walter, " it was only erected about twelve years ago by John Round, Esq." "What is its particidar style?" asked Miss Archer. "The turrets, pinnacles, and ornamental chimney-tops seem g-rouped in a very pictm'esque manner, and are in themselves highl}' ornamental." Walter replied, that the palace was in the Tudor style, and was proceeding' with a description of the leading" characteristics, when he was inteiTupted by Mr. Benson, who remarked that in his nephew's description of different buildings, he rightly identified the style of most with the reign of some of our gTeat sovereigns who were supreme in power in what are g-enerally termed the dark ages. Yet at our enlightened period, when invention, the sister arts, and every branch of science were making" such rapid strides, no advance was perceptible towards the development of a new style of ai'cliitecture to distinguish Queen Victoria's reig-nj but on the contrary, the prevaihng- taste for everything* media?val opposes all efforts in this direction. This enduring- art, which for ages has marked periods and great events, will lose one of its greatest attributes and cause a confusion in time, if the present imitative system contmues. Walter fally felt the force of his uncle's remarks, and inquired whether it was not probable that there existed less difficulty in inventing a new style than insuring- its adoption ; " for you know," he observed, "that there g-enerally exist deep-rooted prejudices always ready to oppose everything- new, no matter how beneficial to mankind, and this feeling would (he beheved) evince itself more powerfully ag-ainst a new order of architecture than ag-ainst any other species of innovation." Dr. Bremmer stated the site of the present mansion to be some considerable distance from that formerly in the possession of Sir Walter Mildmay, who, dying in 1589, was succeeded hv the 84 A SEASON AT HARWICH. Ffytclie finiiilv, who licld it for a g-roat portion of tlie last century, after wliicli it became the seat, successively of the St. Clercs, Herons, De Veres, De Greys, Darcys, Parrs, Bohuns, and other families. " While eng-ag"ed on this sketch," said Walter, " I found near Danbiiry, the remains of Bycknacre Priory, which, thoug-h it consists only of a single Gothic arch, well proportioned with its columns, and a solitary buttress, in the very pure early Eng-lisli style of art, is a subject of g-reat interest. I could hardly resist the temptation of sketcliing- it, but was oblig-ed to refrain for want of time." The next drawing- was immediately recognised by the Doctor as Thoby Priory, near Ing-atestone, and he expressed a hope that it was still in the hands of the Blencowes. " I like," said he, " to see an ancient estate contimie long- in the possession of one family." Walter replied, that the present proprietor was H. P. Blencowe, Esq., but added that it was now tenanted by Thomas Helme, Esq. In answer to a question fi*om Elizabeth, Dr. Bremmer said that it derived its name of a prior}^, from an institution of this description, which former^ existed on its site, founded in 1150, by Michael de Capra, for Aug-ustine Canons, the name of the first prior being- Thoby, or Tobias. In the year 1525, it was g-ranted to Cardinal Wolsey, and, after his disg-race, g-iven to Sir Richard Page, who alienated it to the Prescott family, and it finally passed, by marriag-e, to the Blencowes, about the middle of the last century. " I have often wished to know," said Elizabeth, " the difference between Abbeys and Priories, and also what was the difference between monks and fi-iars." The difference was merely nominal, said the Doctor, between abbe3''S and priories, consisting- in the one being- g-overned by a ])rior, and the other by an abbot. It is true, that the abbeys, in Eng-land at least, had larg-er possessions than the priories. Sir Edward Coke enumerates twenty-seven mitred abbots, who were exempt fi-om the jurisdiction of the diocesan, and were lords in parliament ; he also says, it is true that there were at the same time, two mitred priors, but still the disjn-oi)ortion between them is CHAPTER III. 35 sufficient to mark the superiority of the ahhots. With regard to tlie monks and friars, the former were priests, the latter hiymen, or only in minor orders. " But what were the Augustine Canons," inquired ]\Iiss Archer, " whom 3'ou just mentioned ?" " They were fi-iars, who followed the rule of Augaistine, but did not take orders, hke the monks of the same denomination." The next sketch produced was a view of a mansion, called The Hyde, a larg-e quadrangular building, built in a style that prevailed in the reign of William III., of red and black brick. '' It is," said Walter, " situate on the north side of Ingatestone, and like many of the substantial residences of our English aristo- cracy, a specimen of good taste and refinement, elegantly fitted up within, and surrounded without by every beauty that art and nature combined can bestow. The fertile plain, rich woods, ever- green plantations, and a fine basin of water, are all calculated to aid the effect of the many beautiful views obtained from this mansion. Are you aware, sir, when the mansion was first erected ? " enquired Walter. " The house existed in 1590," replied the Doctor, " and was enlarged in 1713, when the present external wall was erected for Timothy Brand, Esq., in its present style of architecture. Thomas Brand, Esq., who died here in 1734, was succeeded by his son Thomas Brand HoUis, who, in company with Thomas HoUis, Esq., visited Italy (1748-1753), and brought thence a fine collection of antique busts, statues, vases, &c., and arranged them in the great room. This magnificent apartment was formed by throwing five rooms into one, in the year 17G1, for the purpose of a museum ; and it contains some of the most interesting relics of antiquity that Hercidaneum has yet yielded. The collection was greatly enriched by the present John Disney, with the addition of some of the pxu'est specimens of Greek vases, i-emarkable for their simplicity and grace of form, and many other accessions of considerable value. I have in my library, at Dovercourt, a copy of a work, which I will one day show to you, as it is well worthy of a carefid perusal, it is entitled iruseum Disne'unon, and was 36 A SEASON AT HARWICH. [)iil)lis]ip{l l)v Jolin Disney, Esq., wlio lias since produced anotliei- work on Greek vases. The former work contains fifty-eig-lit care- fully executed lithog-rapliic drawing-s of tlie most interesting- specimens of anticpiity in the collection. Speaking- of these rarities, reminds me that John Disney, Esq., has lately presented this invaluable collection to the University of Cambridge. The Rev. John Disney, F.S.A., who died at The Hyde in 1810, was the author of the lives of Jortin and Sykes. In the house are several fine paintings by Rubens, Vandyke, Teniers, and other old masters." The next illustration in the portfolio was Terling Place, and Walter observed, that his drawing- was not so hig-hly finished as the subject deserved. " It is," he continued, " a very extensive brick built house, situate about eig-ht miles from Chelmsford, having- long- extending- wing-s, with little or no architectural pretensions. Bemg- seated on an eminence, it commands extensive views of the distant country, embracing many attractive rural scenes ; while the richly- wooded park, throug-h which the river Ter winds its serpentine course, enhances the beauty of the prospect. There is a very g-ood averag-e collection of pictures in the possession of the noble Loi-d of the estate, among- tlie most striking- of which are four of Canaletti's, representing' Florentine scenery, and a very g-ood copy of the Ascension, of Rembrandt." " In the g-arden belong-ing- to this mansion," said Dr. Bremmer, " a g-reat number of Roman coins, in g-old and silver, were found in 1844, tog-ether with two antique ring-s supposed to have been of the same ag-e as the coins, some of which were struck in the reign of Constantine, but others were so defaced by time that the inscriptions were illegible," This estate was purchased in 1761 by John Stnitt, Esq., gi'and- father of the present noble proprietor, Lord Rayleigh, whose father, Colonel Strutt, married Lady Charlotte Mary Gertrude, fourth daughter, and eighth child, of James, Duke of Leinstcr ; Lady Charlotte was created Baroness Rayleigh on the ninth of July, 1821^ her only son was born in 1796, and succeeded to the title of Lord Rayleigh, in 1836. Major-Genernl William Goodday Strutt, his CHAPTER III. 37 lordship's uncle, died at Little Baddow, February Otb, 1848, in lii.s eig'lity-.sixtli year. This distinti'uishod officer, who entered the army in 1778, was at the sieg-e of Gibraltar and several important eng-ag"ements, and in 1801 was appointed g-overnor of Canada. The next view exhibited was Braxted Hall, the very picturesque seat of Captain Du Cane, R.N. Walter became eloquent in praise of this truly beautiful mansion, its situation in the midst of a park containing- five hundred acres, the gTandeur of the woodland scenery, the extensive gardens, and tlie ornamental lake, each in its turn became the subject of his panegyric. The mansion was built originally by the D'Arcy family, but coming- into the possession of Peter Du Cane, Avas much improved by him ; he adorned it with choice pi'oductions from the studios of Italy ; and among- many other valuable paintings to be found here, is the celebrated one of Paulo Panini, representing" the interior of St. Peter's at Rome. Having- been erected on a hill, the house commands a fine view of the lake and g-rounds, and the eye rests with pleasure on the g-roups of Italian c-attle, which pasture in the park. The Du Canes, or as they were formerly called, Du Quesnes, were originally from Flanders, whence they fled to avoid the persecution of the Duke of Alva, and, in the reig-n of Queen Elizabeth, established themselves, first at Canterbury, and after- wards in London, where growing- very wealthy, they were enabled to promote materially the prosperity of the wool trade, then lately introduced by their countrymen. Felix Hall, near Kelvedon, next engaged attention. This mansion, as they were informed by Walter, is situate at about a mile from the above-mentioned village, on a commanding eminence in a beautiful park, and is at jiresent in the possession and occupa- tion of T. B. Western, Esq., high-sheriif of the county, who inherits it as heir-at-law of the late respected nobleman of his name. It is an elegant modern building of stone, and consists of a fine centre, Ionic tetrastyle portico, and two wings, with pilasters, and has a frontao-e of 160 feet. 38 A SEASON AT HARWICH. Dr. Breninier .said tliat it was anciently called Fillols' I lall, being- then a red brick structure, and belong-ed in succession to the Fillols, Bohuns, Southwells, Russells, Cecils, Abdys, and other families ; coming- afterwards into the hands of Charles Callis Western, Es(j., who, on losing- his election for the coimty, was created a peer in 18;3.3, with the title of Lord Western. The hall was partly rebuilt by him, the portico being- modelled after the drawing's of Desg-odetz, of the temple of Fortuna Virilis at Rome. Here he collected some g-ood painting-s, valuable antiques, busts, and urns of g-reat beauty and rarity, as well as numerous plaster casts fi-om celebrated works of antifpiity. The Tower of Layer Marney furnished the next subject. It was situate, Walter said, about 5^ miles from Kelvedon, and is the relic of one of the largest brick building-s in the king-dom; orig'inally it formed an extensive quadrang-le, inclosing- a spacious court, tlie chief entrance to which was between two lofty octag-onal towers, flanked by two others of rather smaller dimensions ; and this part is still left standing*. The g-ateway is composed of a foiu'-centred moulded arch and jambs, now nearly overg-rown Avith iv}' ; over this arch are two larg-e apartments on separate floors, lig-hted by labelled windows, each divided, by mullions, into five lig-hts, with cusped heads and transoms. The summit of the tower is crowned with an ornament resembling- the Grecian Amthemium, enriched with the honeysuckle ornament — no douljt, an addition made subsequently to the date of the building-, which is of the perpendicular period of g-othic architec- ture, the details of which are rather of an impure character ; but, notwithstanding', it is a building- endowed with many beauties, arising- fi-om its imposing- heig-ht and the fine proportion of the whole ; indeed, this towered g-atew-ay, with its venerable appearance and the associations connected with it, becomes an object of intense interest. The materials of which the tower is composed, are larg-e bricks, in imitation of Ashlar stone work ; these appear to have been used as facing-s of the work, both of the exterior and the larg-er apartments of the hall; thev are formed of brick-earth cast in moulds and CHAPTER III. 39 burnt. Attaclietl to tlie east and west sides of the g-ateway are considerable remains of the ohl mansion, now used as a fiirm-house and offices. As the tower rises from hiyli g'round, tlie upper stories command a very extensive prospect of the surroimding- scenery ; particularly looking- westward ; and there is a fine sea view to the east. The Doctor said, that Layer Marney was built by Su* Henry Marney about the year 1500 ; he was made a privy councillor by Henry VII. ; was knighted by Henry VIII. ; made captain of the giiard ; keeper of the privy seal ; and, in 1.322, created Lord Marney. From his family the mansion passed to that of Corsellis, and in the church adjacent, a monumental inscription informs us, that Frederic Corselhs, the ancestor of this famiiy, first taught the art of i)rinting- to the English people ; a })oint, however, somewhat doubtful. The next sketch produced was a view of Boreham House. " It is," said Walter, " situate about three miles north-east ii'om Chelms- ford, on the road to Colchester, stands on the hig-hest gToimd in the neighbourhood, and is approached by an avenue of trees, between which appears a fine expanse of Avater. The mansion is faced with white bricks and stone dressings, and was originally built for Benjamin Hoare, Esq., about the year 1730, receiving- many of its embeUishments and costly materials from that jwrtion of New Hall which was taken down about that particular time." " During- the memorable trial of Y/arren Hastings — the ex- governor of the Bengal Presidency — and Sir Elijah Impey, for alleged maladministration," remarked the Doctor, "the latter resided here, with fifty household servants; since which it has become the property and seat of Sir John Tyrell, Bart., the descendant of Sir Walter Tyrell, (who accidentally slew King WiUiam Rufiis, while hunting- in the New Forest,) who then held the manor of Langham in Essex. For fifteen generations after him the head of the family was always knighted; and in 1G73 Sir John Tyrell was created a baronet, but the title became extinct in 1700. The late Sir John Tyrell married the heiress of WiUiam T^'ssen, Esq., of Waltham House, Herts, and was created a baronet in 1800. His son, the present worthy l)aronet, was born in 1795, and sue- 40' A SEASON AT HAUWIClIi ceeded to the title and family estates in 1832; since which date he has sat in piirliament for the Northern Division of Essex. He is also Colonel of the West Essex Militia. He married the eldest daug'hter of Sir Thomas Pilking-ton, Bart., of Chevet, Yorkshire. Sir John has, I believe, g-reatly improved the property ? " '* He has, sir," replied Walter, '' by adding- wing-s to the building-, which has en*oneonsly been termed the Vanbrug-h style of architec- ture, but is, in fact, Roman. The tower windows are in simple arcliitraves, with seg-mental and raking- ])ediments, alternately continued throug-h the wing-s, which terminate with circular-headed openings between columns. The centre part of the building-, rising- considerably above the wing-s, terminates with a pediment and open ballusters. The principal apartments are commodious and eleg-antly fitted up, and furnished witli much taste. The ])ark is not very extensive, but the g-rounds evince a care and judg-ment that woidd reflect honour on a Loudon : a spacious lawn extends from the mansion down to the banks of the river Chelmer." Dr. Bremmer, with his usual enthusiasm upon subjects of antiquity, observed, " there still exist in the neig-hbourhood where the last sketch was taken, the remains of one of the most interesting- buildings in Essex, known as New Hall. It is," remarked the Doctor, facetiously, "a very old New Hall, and received this appellation in contra-distinction to its neighbour, the ancient manor-house, situate near Boreham Church. The estate was oi-iginally the property of the prior and monks of Waltham Abbey, and was conveyed to Sir John de Shardelow, Knt., in exchange for other estates, as early as 1350 ; it was again exchanged in 1374 by his brother and successor. Sir Thomas de Shardelow, with Sir Hemy de Coggeshall and his brother Thomas, and remamed in possession of this family for several generations, when it became the property of Margaret of Anjou, Queen of Henry VI., but was forfeited, during the wars of the Roses, and was afterwards granted to the noble family of Boteler, Earl of Ormond. James Boteler, afterwards created Earl of Wiltshire, by Henry VI,, was taken prisoner at the battle ofTowton, and beheaded in 1461; and his brother met the same unhappy fate fourteen years after. But Thomas, their brother, received the lordsliip of New Hall, from CITAl'TKR III. 41 Homy VII., as some recompense for the services and sufFei-ing-s of liis family, with Hcense to encircle it with towers and walls." " A princely gift, judgmg- from your description," said Elizabeth, " yet a poor recompense for the loss of two brothers. But I am anxious to hear how long- this family retained the estate." " It passed," said the Doctor, " by the female Hne, to Sir Wilham Boleyn, father to Queen Anne Boleyn. Henry VIII., after this marriag-e made New Hall a royal residence, during- which time many important additions were made ; and, fi'om its charming- situation, he called it Bcaidicu. There is still existing over one of the doors the arms of this king, finely carved in freestone, with a Latin inscription, notifying that he erected this sumptuous building- ; doubtless referring to that portion of it added by Henry ; for a mansion, or a castellated structure, as I have already shown, existed in the previous reig-n. His eldest daughter, Mary, sojourned here for a considerable period, diiring- which time many important additions were made to the building-." " Did not her sister Elizabeth also temporarily reside at New Hall ^. " incpiired Walter. " I know of no authentic accoiint of her having- at any time made this her residence ; but I think it highly probable, judging- from the circumstance of her arms being- erected over the entrance door. There is also a very laudatory inscription to her, ordered to be placed there possibly by the Earl of Sussex, upon whom she bestowed this estate for his services. It was afterwards purchased for £30,000, by that Duke of Bucldngham who was assassinated by Felton, at Portsmouth 5 and upon the attainder of his son, who sided with Charles I., parliament ordered the property to be sold. It was piu'chased by Oliver Cromwell, the consideration being five shilling-s, and the estimated value upwards of £13,000. Such was the deplorable condition of the unfortunate Cavaliers at this period. Cromwell, however, soon relinipiished it for Hampton Coiu't. On the accession of Charles II., it was restored to the house of Buck- ing-ham 5 the head of this family sold it to General Monk, Duke of Albemarle, who here kept a magnificent establishment. Since this period other families have in turn owned it ; some portions have falltni to decav, and others have either been destroyed or D 42 A SEASON AT HARWICH. removed, to make way for sundry offices. The old cliapel, which was attached to the house, was taken down, and its beautiful stained-g-lass window transferred to St. Marg-aret's, Westminster." The whole party were very much interested with the account the Doctor had given of New Hall, and were expressing their thanks warmly, when the Doctor observed, he must add "that this venerable building- for many years has been occupied as a Nunnery by a community of Eng-lish nuns, of the order of the Holy Sepulchre, who were driven from the city of Lieg-e, during the French Eevolution. New Hall at first comprised two large quad- rangular courts, three sides of which were long ago destroyed, and offices of very humble architectural pretension have been added to the wings of the west front, which is in that style denominated Tudor. The grounds belonging to the mansion consist of about thirty acres, the greater part environed by a wall. It is entered by an iron gate, from which two rows of lofty trees, incluchng some fine cedars, form a stately avenue, which conducts to the Louse. The gardens cover a surface of eight acres. Bull's Lodge, or BoJeyoi's Lodge Farm, was once included in New Hall Park. The fiirm-house is also in the Tudor style. According to some, Anne BolejTi, before and after her marriage to Henry VIH., fi^equently visited it." "Anne Boleyn!" added Walter, "'tis she of whom Shakspere makes the King say — ' The fairest hand I ever touch'd ! O, Beauty ! Till now I never knew thee.' " " Good," exclaimed the Doctor, " I am glad to find, Walter, you are so well acquainted with the immortal Bard of Avon. Every true-born Englishman should have Shakspere at his fingers'-ends." 43 CHAPTER IV. IN WHICH THE JOURNEY IS CONCLUDED. ^N the following" morning- the travellers pursued their road to Harwich, and were delighted with the ever- varpng- heauty of the landscape. They passed throug-h Greenstead; which parish consists merely of a number of houses scattered over Parson's Heath, on the hig-h road to Manning-tree, Mistier, and Harwich, and extends some distance along the eastern bank of the river Colne. Here, as in many of the localities in this, and the adjoining- county, the strang-er is struck with the frequent remains of old English mansions, usually with fine, lofty and spacious halls, massive-looking, commodious staircases, stone muUioned windows vnth peeping quarry Hghts, where the arms of the family are usuall}^ emblazoned in stained glass, and a hundred other relics of their former character, all in reduced cu'cumstances, and now doing the humble duty of farm-houses. The Doctor took an opportunity to observe that it was indeed a pitiable spectacle to see these once-gorgeous mansions, deprived of all their pomp and glitter, and stripped of their gTandeur, bruised, battered, and patched, with here and there an oi-nament lopped, or plastered ; he viewed them as " ruined niins," that might, at least, have been interesting in many instances. Even now the creeping ivy, which time and age have assisted in the gTowth, spreads its green mantle over the woimds inflicted b}' change and neglect. Thus leaving the subject, the Doctor said, " Earl de Grey is lord of the manor, and almost sole proprietor of Greenstead, which came into the possession of his family, with Mile-End, the northera subiu'b of Colchester." 44 A SEASON AT HARWICH. Ai"ter leaving' Greenstead, tlie Doct(-)r, i)oiiiting" to the riglit, observed that they had reached the very interesting" and respectable parish and villag-e of Wivenhoe, seated on the Cohie, just wliere that river begins to expand itself into a broad estuary, with Rowhedge on the opposite bank. It may be said to be the shipping- })ort of Colchester, as colHers and other vessels there receive and dehver their carg'oes, by means of lig-hters. An extensive fisliing- trade is likewise earned on, particidarly in soles and oysters, which lattei' are considered by epicures to be equal to any in the king- dom. The Doctor said that this hjcality was rendered particularly interesting- to him, from the circumstance of the honorable and enterprising family of Rebow, long- the lessees of the Harwich lig'ht-houses, residing at Wivenhoe Park, now the seat of John Gurdon Rebow, Esq. " It is," he said, '■'■ most dehghtfidly situate, and the judicious taste of the present distinguished proprietor has been exercised in entu-ely remodelling- and beautifying- the mansion, which is now rendered one of the most striking- building-s to be met with iu the route we are pursuing-. The attention of travellers must be at once attracted to the scene now before us — tlie choice evei-- g-reens and slu'idjs of every hue ; the stately trees, affording- amj)le shade for herds of deer that browse on the most luxiu-iant pasture ; the gently sloping gTounds, and the noble mansion at an agreeable distance, combine to })roduce a pictui'e that can only be viewed with feeling-s of dehght. But you," addressing- himself to Walter, " can possibly g-ive us a more scientific account of the structiire." Walter repHed, that he had been over the estate, but doubted much his abihty to add to the interest abeady excited by the pleasing- remarks he had just heard. At the same time he felt gTatified to find that the Doctor, notwithstanding- his predilection for mansions bearing- the stamp of centuries, woidd not withhold his approbation of such alterations in them as increased their comfort and tended to improve the architecture of the present day. " I well remember," continued Walter, " fi-om prints I liave examined, that tlie old building- had no great pretension to style in architecture, although its extent, and the air of refinement surrounding- it, gave the idea of abundant wealth and hospitality. I regret that I could not find time to make a sketch of the mansion as it now apjiears, CHAl'TEK I\'. 45 ami which will not detract from the popularity of the celebrated Hopper^ from whose designs the improvements have been made. The chaste and beautiful style adojrtcd has been admirably- worked out, and, from its elevation, the building- has a most imposing- appearance, from whatever point it may be viewed. Indeed, (he added,) much as it is externally improved, the increased comfort and beauty of the intei-nal arrang-ements are far g-reater. It.s lofty rooms command prospects at once extensive and striking*. The eye is du-ected to plots of eleg-ant Howers laid out in the most tasteftil manner; to the ornamental lake, where the g-raceftil swan and a variety of other aquatic birds g-lide smoothly on its g'lassy sm-face, and to the scenery of the park so admirably described by the Doctor ; while the winding-s of the Colne, and the town of Colchester are distinctly visible in the distance." The Doctor anxious to explain fully every particular relating- to the place, said, the park was partly in the parish of Greenstead, and partly in that of Wivenhoe ; but the mansion was wholly in the latter. He informed his fellow-travellers that the estate formerly belong'ed to the Berelf family, and, on coming- into the possession of Isaac Martin Rebow, Esq., it was converted into a handsome seat about the year 1740 ; it afterwards became the residence of the late General Francis Slater Rebow, who, Like its present honorable possessor, was an active mag-istrate of the county. Miss Archer said she recollected the name, having- noticed it on a mural monument, with a full-leng-th statue, in St. Mary's Church, Colchester. " It was erected to the memory of John Rebow, by his son Sir Isaac Rebow, in 1G99," said the Doctor. The party had now reached Elmstead, or, as it is sometimes called, Elmstead Market, from the circumstance of a market hanng- been held here, during- the prevalence of the plagiie at Colchester, wliicli according- to an entr^' in Pcpi/s' Dian/, must have rag-ed there with g-reat fury; for, after offering- thanks that the plng-ue in the metropolis had only, on July 4th, been increased by two upon the preceding- day's amount, he remarks, that " it rag-es mig-htily in the country places, and })articularly at Colchester, where it has long- been, and it is believed will quite depopulate the place." Elmstead 40 A SEASON AT HARWICH. is an exceedingly pretty little village, about four miles and a halt' fi'om Colchester, surrounded by some of the most fertile land in the county, principally belonging to the Charter-House, London, and some few smaller proprietors. Edward Daniels, Esq., is tlie present lord of the manor. Passing Bromley Lodge, and leaving Great and Little Bromley to the left, the carriage proceeded through a country of sur- passing beauty, vvdiich elicited exclamations of delight from the whole party. Now their attention was drawn to a neat cottage, with a small patcli of garden ground, filled with ilowers of every colour that imparted an agreeable fragrance to the airj children, rosy and dimpled, rolling in play before the door; next came in view a comfortable farm-house, with its well-stocked rick-yards, ^rrounded by waving corn-fields and rich pasture lands; while husbandmen, everywhere busy, could be heard hghtening their toil by whistling some rustic melody : in short, such, and similar scenes constantly presented themselves during the whole of this part of their journey. Bentley and the Hall were passed without observation, which caused some disappointment to Dr. Bremmer, who had intended to point out the site occupied formerly by the Old Hall, at Great Bentley, but he observed it was not too late to say, that formerly a stately mansion, in an extensive park, stood in the place now called Hall Fields, near the church. This mansion was long the seat of the De Vere family, but not a portion of it now remains ; and nothing but some traces of part of a moat, which it is presumed formerly surrounded the building, and two or three fish-ponds, mark the spot it once occupied. On went the carriage, without further remark, till they reached Wicks, or, as it is sometimes spelt, Weeks, or Wix. The manor of Wix, or Park Hall, in the reign of Edward the Confessor, belonged to Queen Edeva, and at Domesday survey, to Walter the Deacon. This Walter was the ancestor of the noble family of Hastings, from whom the manor passed, first to the Bohuns, then to the Stafibrds, Mericks, Phillipsons, and afterwards to other families. It is now held by E. W. Garland, Esq., of whom we shall have occasion to speak in another place ; but a great portion CHAPTER IV. 47 of" the landed property belongs to Sir Joshua B. Rowley, Bart., Lady Bellew, Mr. Constable, Mr. C. Norman, and other holders, who divide 3,043 acres among- them. In a field on the Abbey Farm, adjoining- the church, and belong- ing to C. Grant, Esq., there stood formerly a nunnery ; and the remains of a moat, which, it is supposed, encircled the building, still exist. The Doctor said the nuns were of the Benedictine order, and the convent was founded in the reign of Henry I., by the sons and daughter of Walter the Deacon. In 1525 it was given to Cardinal Wolsey, towards the endowment of his intended colleges at Oxford and Ipsmcli ; after which it reverted to the crown, and was gi*anted in 1530, to Sir Adam Fortescue. Leaving the carriage, the party turned doA\Ti the road leading to Manning-tree, and came suddenly in sight of St. Michael's Church, or what may be more properly called the remains of this interesting- building. Walter remarked that its secluded situation, and the circumstance of its being surrounded by a grave- yard, inclosed "udthin a wall, seemed to bestow upon it a sulky dig-nity. What is now called the church, being without a tower or aisles, in short, "wdth little but the nave remaining, the intervals between the columns being fiUed up with brick-work, has a very extraordinary appearance. It was originally given to the nunnery by the foimders, and after- wards falhng into disuse, from neglect, it became a ruin, the portions of it which are deficient having- fallen down, remained a heap of dust and rubbish till the year 1740, when what now remains was repaired and rendered fit for divine service. " What can be the object of that cage in the middle of the grave- yard ? " inquired Charles. "It forms a very pictm-esque object, for whatever purpose it was there placed ; " observed Miss Elizabeth. Upon approaching- the object of their curiosity, they found, to theii' gTeat surprise, that it was a belfiy, with two trees gTowing out of it, whose mature growth attested, as the Doctor pointed out, the fact that the belfi"}' must have been in existence a gTeat number of years, as the trees could only have been produced fi-om seeds 48 A SKASO\ A'l' IIAUWK'U. ihopjiril tlicvc li_v jieoidoit. All iiiz'rccd, liowovcr, tluit tlie cifect w;is siuii'nlarlv ])p;iutiful. WIS BELI'EY. Upon entering- tlie belfry, tlie party discovered a very elaborately cast bell, witli a Latin inscription, intimating- that it had been dnly " blessed." Upon inqniring- into tlie reason for placing- tlie belfi-y in sncli a place, tliey were gravely informed by a poor man, wlio here joined the part}', that it was fixed there for security, for that the monks of old had three times caused the tower of the church to be built for the reception of the bell, and that three times his Satanic majesty had employed himself in the nig-lit to pull it down, till at last the monks, finding- that they could not have a tower belfry, efibcted a compromise by placing- it where it now remains. The old man, finding- attentive listeners, further informed them, that the fiirm-liouse adjoining- the church-yard, was formerly the convent, and that the g-eneral Ijelief is, that two nuns were confined in sei)arate rooms, where they were put to death, for some supposed crime, and that ever since these ladies have kept possession of the apartments ; the tenants, from time immemorial, rather tlian dispute CHAPTER IV, 49 their ng'lit, having- relinquished all claim to this part of the house, in favour of the supposed g'hosts ! Mr. Benson, as soon as the old man had been dismissed, expressed the utmost surprise that such a state of ignorance and superstition should exist in England in the nineteenth century. " Here," said he, " is a field in which the missionaries and friends of education mig-ht well exercise their benevolent industry." He was informed by the Doctor that the work had abeady commenced ; inasmuch as a National School had been built so early as 1843, in the parish, and that at present it was fi-equented by about fifty scholars. Returning to the carriag'e, they proceeded on their journey, passing- throug-h Ramsey and leaving- Little Oakley on their rig-ht ; but nothing of interest, other than a view of the sea, and the ever- varying beauty of the landscape, occurred to eng-age the conversation of the party, yet the picturesque scenery eUcited many expressions of admiration fi-om every member of the family j and soon aftenvards arriving- at Dovercourt,they ahg-hted at the mansion of Dr. Bremmer, where everytliing- had been prepared to give them a hospitable reception. The evening' was spent in arranging- excursions in various direc- tions, in all which Dr. Bremmer was, of course, to be the guide, and as he had informed Mr. Benson of his intention to remain a fortnig-ht in the country, the whole party were pleased with the anticipation of seeing- ever^-thing worthy of their notice, in the neig-hbom'hood, notwithstanding- the assurance of the Doctor, that a much longer period would be requii'ed for the examination of the several rare and beautiful objects of the locality. It Avas a g-lorious summer evening-, just as the sun was throwing- his last beams over the scene, that Henr}^ and Charles, who had approached the drawing-- room Avindow, whence the broad North Sea and the entrance into Harwich Harbour were plainh' discernible, exhibited much delight at a fleet of several hundred boats, all cutter-rigged, that was approaching-, as if from sea, each striving- to reach the appointed haven before his fellows, and forming- a scene as full of interest as tbe most splendid regatta could by possibility furnish. An exclamation, equally of delig-ht, bm-st simultaneously from the whole party, whose attention was drawn to the animating; E 50 A SEASON AT HARWICH. spectacle. The Doctor was pleased by tlieii- expressions of admira- tion, and, upon being- appealed to, observed — " These are the craft employed in dredg-ing- for the stone fi-om wliich is made the celebrated Roman Cement ; and to tliis material our gi-eat metropoHs is indebted for many of its embellishments and experiments in architecture j indeed, every g-reat town in the United Kingdom, and many on the continent^ are ahke adorned with the produce of these rocks ; the exportation of it forming* a very important item in the trade of the place : indeed, it is calculated that from three to four hundred vessels are employed in obtaining- this useful article from the West Rocks,* and these are some of them, straining-, as you see, every stitch of canvas, in the eager endeavoiu- to get into harbour before the rest." '^ And what m-ges them to such anxious speed ? " was the inquiry of Miss Archer. " Simply this," replied the Doctor, " the barges you see yonder by the jetty, and those ag-ain further up the harbour, are now wait- ing- to take cargoes to London, and other parts of the kingdom ; the boats that g-et in first have the benefit of an early discharge at once into the vessels lying- ready for loading-. The next prize to be gained, is to be enabled to deHver their cargoes on shore, for home manufacture, for the rule is, ^ first come, first served ; ' and this scene, wind and weather permitting-, is constantly recurring, both morn- ing and evening, the stimulus to exertion in the morning, being the desire to take up the most favourable position for pursuing- their occupation on the dredging- ground." " And is it a very profitable calhng ? " inquired Miss Archer. " It is hke fisliing," said the Doctor, " precarious, owing- to its dependence on the weather. At times, with a favourable wind for dredging, that is, one which will carry them over the grounds, a very profitable day's work is soon made." "And how," said Ch-arles, "is the stone prepared, in order to make it into cement for use ? " " The stone," answered the Doctor, " is first burned in kilns, con- structed for that purpose, and afterwards ground in a mill, to an impalpable powdery it is then fit for use, and the sooner it is worked * Researches A. CHAPTER IV. 51 up after this latter process, the more durable it proves. When gTOund, however, it is packed in casks, containing- about four hun- dred weight, and sold in London at about seven shillings and sixpence each cask. The price of the stone is now about five shillings a ton, so that, you see, as in other things, the value of this article is much enhanced by the process of manufacture." " Is it to be obtained in any other part of England ? " asked Mr. Benson, to whom the subject was new, and Avho had listened with great attention to the observations of Dr. Bremmer. The Doctor, in answer, said, " it is obtained also fi-om the Isle of Sheppy ; but there is an inferior kind of stone, sometimes sold for that of Harwich, at two shillings a ton ; this comes fi-om Sapperton, in Gloucestershire, between Stroud and Cirencester, where it is found in larg;e quantities. Cement stone is obtained generally on the coast of Essex, but not abundantly ; and it is fi'om the circum- stance of the locality of Harwich being situate on the London, or blue clay, that it has acquired this importance ; which, though valuable to the lord of the manor, claiming and exercising- the rig-ht to its excavation between liigh and low vrater-mark, is attended with disastrous consequences to landowners on the shore ; the taking- away what Nature assuredly meant for the protection of the land, causing large slips of a very alarming nature. I myself lost half an acre a short time since by the operation." " But can you not prevent this, by an application to the magis- trates ? " asked Mr. Benson. "I have tried that course," said the Doctor, "by t-aking the parties detected before the mayor ; but it has had but little effect on others, who find so much profit in the jiractice ; indeed, I believe, the only effectual remedy for the evil is the erection of a g-ood sea- wall, to protect the face of the chff. Oui* excellent and spu-ited member of parliament, IMr. Bagshaw, has set us the example in this respect, which, I am happy to say, the Government have fol- lowed ; and, I have no doubt that, although, in the first instance, an expensive undertaking, it will ultimately repay the outlay." " I suppose," said Charles, " you occasionall}' have recourse to the cliff yourself, for any cement stones you may require for building- on yoiu- own propertv ? " 52 A SEASON AT HARWICH. " By no means," said Dr. Bremmer, " for it is a curious anomaly, that tlioug-li the land is my owti, I am not allowed to remove a sing-le stone from it ; and if I were to attempt it, I should immediately be threatened with an action, at the suit of the lord of the manor, who has not a foot of land on the coast, and yet formerly realized £300 a-year by gi'antino; a lease giving the privi- lege of excavation, but which is, happily, now terminated." "Has the sea encroached much on this part of the coast?" asked Walter, who had hitherto been engaged in a private conversation with Ehzabeth, which seemingly gave great satisfaction to both. " It has," said the Doctor, " and the removal of the stone which I have just adverted to is in a great measure, though not wholly, the cause of tliis encroachment ; it was in order partly to put a stop to this, that the magnificent breakwater we shall visit to-morrow was constructed. As early as the time of Cardinal Wolsey, the stone was considered of value as a building material ; but, at the same time the importance of maintaining- it as a barrier against the encroachments of the sea, was fully recognised. In my library you will find copies of two letters from Elizabeth, Countess Dowager of Oxford, to that prelate. This noble person was then the lady paramount of the town and lordship, and the letters I allude to, were in answer to an application from the Cardinal, who was then engaged in the building of his college at Ipswich, for a supply of stone, for the purpose of its erection." * Walter, proud of the Doctor's former acknowledgment of his quotation fi-om Shakspere, here turned towards Elizabeth and quoted from the fouth act of Henry VIII. the Poet's description of Wolsey — "Though he were unsatisfied in getting, (Which was a sin,) yet in bestowing, madam, He was most princely : ever witness for him Those t%vins of learning, that he raised in you, Ipswich and Oxford ! one of which fell with him, TJnwilKng to ovitlive the good that did it." " Well quoted ! " exclaimed the Doctor, " and I may inform you, Walter, that the foundation-stone of that College at Ipswich is now deposited in the Chapter House of Christ Church, Oxford." * Researches B. .! ¥ ■'f^ CHAPTER IV. 53 Elizabeth having expressed a desire to see the Hbrary, the Doctor proposed that they shoukl visit it at once, which meeting- full approbation, he conducted them to it. The -^-indows of this room commanded a noble view of woods and streams, fair pasture-lands, and fields, whose waving- verdure promised a rich harvest, to reAvard the toil of the husbandman. The well-filled shelves which Hned the walls, now attracted their particular attention. Here were collected the most splendid works in ancient and modern European lang-uag-es, on every subject of science and hterature ; thoug-h the ^eat preponderance of works, treating- on the subjects of medicine and natural history, marked the taste, and shewed the avocations of the collector. On g'oing- round the room, Mr. Benson noticed a coat of arms, placed over a small door, and he was eng-ag-ed in endeavouring- to decipher the bearing-s, when Dr. Bremmer observing- liim, explained that these were the arms of Harwich. " This door," said he, " opens into a small room, containing- only those works which have reference to that town, or its immediate vicinity." The Doctor here con- ducted them into this apartment, which was found to contain many shelves filled Avdth works, bearing- directly or indirectly, on the topography, and natural and social history of the boroug-h. Walter expressed his surprise and admiration at the industry and perseverance which had broug-ht together so many works, all bearing- on the same subject. Dr. Bremmer rephed, that the merit, if any, of the collection was not due to him alone, as his father, and more especially his grand- father, had purchased some of the most valuable works. He offered the young- man free entrance to this sanctum, whenever he was so inchned, assuring- him that he would find here, matters of sufficient interest to repay him well for the time spent in conning- them. The Doctor remarked, that, since the time of Dale, with the exception of an anonymous work entitled a Gu'ule to Harwich, no complete account, embracing its natural liistory and productions, as A3 OP TH'E BOROUOH. 54 A SEASON AT HARWICH. well as historical nieinoirs, had been published. "I have," con- tinued the Doctor, "■ long- felt sensible of a deficiency in not having- a very concise narrative of many of the details of our early history ; and, having- such abundant materials in my possession, a respectable ])ortion being- the result of my own observation upon the occurrences of our times, I considered a reproach would be justly attached to me, if I neg-lected to make use of the same for the benefit of the public generally. I have, therefore, already commenced this sub- ject ; and you, my fi-iend," addressing- himself to Walter, " before you quit this part of the country, if you feel disposed, mig-ht afford me g-reat assistance in collecting- matter to further this desirable object." " I shall be most happy, sir," replied Walter, " to render you the slig-htest assistance in tlie undertaking-; thoug-h I fear that, fi-om want of experience, my services will be of little value." How far Walter successfully availed himself of the opportunity thus g-ranted to him, will appear fi'om the Researches at the end of tills work. At an early hour the travellers retired to rest, after settling- that on the following- morning- they shoidd commence their inspection of the notabilities of Harwich. 55 CHAPTER V. IN WHICH SOME OF OUR PARTY MAKE THEIR FIRST ACQUAINT- ANCE WITH HARWICH. -^ HE Boroug'li of Harwich comprises the parishes of All Saints, Dovercourt, and St. Nicholas, Har- wich, the former with a population of 813, and W the latter of 3,01G, according- to the census of 1841. Dovercourt has an area of 1,070 acres of land, extending- two miles westward along- the south bank of the Stour, and more than that distance southward by the sea-coast, exhibiting- one of the most delig-htful panoramas of marine, river, and rural subjects to be met with in any locality. On the sea-side, the beethng- chff continues for some distance, succeeded by pleasure- g-rounds tastefully laid out, with sloping- g-rass-banks and walks ; these leading- ag-ain to a cliff, sixty feet above the sea, and continuing- for some distance ; and then by a g'ently sloping- decline, leading- to the beach, so firm at low water, that it can be travelled over a considerable distance with impunity ; than which no finer situation could be found for sea-bathing-. Dovercourt parish may be said to comprise two villag-es, the Upper and Lower. The former, about two miles fi-om Harwich, consists of a mmiber of g-ood houses and cottag-es, and at its north-east end is the church, dedicated to All Saints. There are two inns, where travellers can be provided with g-ood accommodation, and in the vicinity is a nimiber of substantial homesteads. Lower Dovercourt is the more considerable of the two, and is but half-a-mile from Harwich. Here are several g-entlemen's seats : — Cliff House, the marine residence of John Bagshaw, Esq., M.P., occupies a most commanding- position, and is seated in the midst of extensive pleasure-g-rounds, tastefully laid out by their present possessor, on a capacious plateau of the cliff, having- a southern aspect. John Attwood, Esq., late M. P. for Harwich, also possesses a delig-htful river-side seat, known a.' 50 A SEASON AT HARWICH. Holly Lodg'e. There are, besides, a number of g-ood substantial houses, pretty villas, and many cottag-es, the latter disting-uished more especially by their whiteness, the glai-ing- reflection fi-om wliich was sensibly felt by our party on the shady side of the road. Dovercourt had formerly two fairs, of which Silas Taylor (about 1G7G) says — "This village hath yearly two fairs ; one of them is in Lent, even on Good Friday, before Easter ; the other on that Mon- day which follows next after Holy Rood, or Holy Cross Day, which falls on the 14th day of September: neither of them is of any great concernment, being chiefly fi'equented by the country neigh- bours, to eat a mess of frumenty, spend a groat on cakes and ale, or a penny with the Pedler," At the present day the pleasure-fair is held on Whit-Monday, but the other has been discontinued. It was proposed by Dr. Bremmer, that the party should visit the Gardens, near the sea, which they accordingly did. Here, though so con- tigiious to the beach, they found fi'uits of the finest description j some ripe, and in high perfection, and others giving promise of a like satisfactory result. This, the Doctor remarked, was another proof, if such were required, of the general mildness and salubrity of the climate in this spot ; and the whole of the party were grati- fied to learn that it was the intention of the proprietor of the land in question, to encourage the erection of a number of marine villas on the site, thus converting the spot into one of the most beautifid. and retired of watering-places ; and when the proximity of Harwich, with its port, packet-pier, its markets, the delightfid walks and rides in the neighbourhood, and the fact of a branch from the Eastern Union Railway at Manning-tree, already commenced, being intended to touch the place, thus making a direct communication with London and the East- Anglian District — when these cu'cumstances are taken into consideration, a more eligible locality coidd scarcely be found. Leaving the Gardens and proceeding along the road to Harwich, they shortly arrived at the residence of the worthy Member, before alluded to, who, with his accustomed courtesy, had kindly given per- mission to the friends of Dr. Bremmer, with whom he was personally acquainted, to inspect the house and grounds. The mansion, which is kno^vn as Cliff House, was built by Mr. Bagshaw, in 1845, in i^'i. '■'^.'■•V^^'^V^' ciiapt]!:r v. 57 tlie Italian style. The approach is by a g-ateway, witli niches on either side ; passing- throiig-h which, the buihling', witli its entrance- porch, &c., shows itselfj opening* into an inner vestibule, and from thence to the hall, presenting- a rather imposing- object to the visitor. To Walter, who viewed the al)ove with a painter's e^'e, this hall conveyed the idea of a Roman villa, belong-ing" to a senator of the imperial city, in the days of its grandeur. The views fi-om the well-arrang-ed rooms were most extensive. First, the^ broad expanse of the German Ocean, across a verdant la\ra brig-ht with the flowers of an early summer, that was spread before them ; then more picturesque scenes — the Beacon Clitf, the mouth of the har- bour, Landg-uard Fort, the town of Harwich, and Orwell estuai-y. Passing- throug-h a neat conservatory, the party proceeded to view the exterior of the building- ; and Walter here observed to the Doctor, that the Italian st^'le of architecture, in his opinion, was most suitable for a marine residence, possessing- a stability of character, and suitable dig-nity, without infring-ing- upon the con- venience of the internal arrang-ements. The Doctor expressed his concurrence, and led the way to the summer-house, by the path parallel to the hig-h road, on the rig-ht THE SDMMERHOCSE. of which g-rew a great variety of flowers in profusion, flanketl with some of the choicest shruljs and evergreens ; the efl'ect being- 1' 58 A SEASON AT HAUWICH. enluinced by tlie soft velvet lawn reacliing- to tlie ornamented building-. The ladies, expressing- their admiration at the scene, appreciated the welcome shade which it afforded, while the members of this happy party here examined a small collection of fossils, and other objects of interest, taken fi-om the neig-hbonring- cliffs. After resting- awhile, they proceeded along- a raised terrace of considerable leng-th, from which there was a most enchanting- prospect, embracing' another varied landscape, and at the end they found a maze of tamarisk g-rowing- in g-reat luxuriance. Here commenced three stag-es of inviting- slopes, covered with g-rass, and divided by walks, the whole protected by a sea-wall, erected at a g-reat expense by the proprietor, and stretching- along that part of the estate, where it is proposed to make the front of the New Town, a distance of nearly 1,200 feet. To those who remember the stag-nant jX)ol, the unsightly huts, the barren bank, with their crowd of nuisances, the change recently wrought in the locality appears like magic. Proceeding along- the centre walk, they soon reached an alcove, fashioned fi'om the hidl of a boat and old trunks of trees, to which creeping- plants were clinging-, the party here seated them- selves to contemplate the ocean-scene stretched out before them. The advancing tide rushed in, nearly fifty feet below, roaring and foaming, then hastened back as if to gather strength in making- a more determined attack. To a mind like Dr. Bremmer's, when contemplating- the view that presented itself, every occurrence that by-g-one times had witnessed, passed in review before him. " At one time," he observed, breaking from his reverie, "the Romans, no doidjt, had a stronghold here, to rejxd tlie incursions of the enemy. The importance of the position, as a haven, was too obvious to be overlooked by that great people. ■ I will point out, when we visit the spot, the remains of a tumulus, indicating that a camp had there existed; this is in part confirmed by the coins, which Morant relates a Mr. Brand to have had in his possession, and by fragments of tesselated pave- ment fotxnd at various times; as likewise by the teeth and bones of large animals discovered in the cliff; by some- geologists thought to CHAPTER V. 59 be the remains of elephnnts, broiig-lit into Enj^-land by the Emperor Chiudius. Soon after the departm-e of the Romans, Harwich, and the adjoining- districts, were wrested fi-om the Britons by the Saxons ; and, in or about the year 746, with the rest of the king-dom of East Saxony, it fell under the sway of Eg'l)ert." " I have read, somewhere," said Walter, " an account of n naval eng-ag'ement, between Alfred and the Danes, that took place near this port, in which the latter were totally defeated." " Your information is correct, so far as it g'oes," rejiUed the Doctor ; " and the account given of this battle is the first notice we have on record of Harwich. But Alfred's fleet, upon its return home, laden with the spoils of the enemy, was met by a superior force of the foe, which, in its tui'n, completely defeated the king-. According- to Camden, this eng-ag-ement was foug-ht oif ' a promon- tory where now is seated Harwich, a very safe harbour, as its name imports. . . From this point,' he observes in another place, ' the shore runs back a little to the Stour mouth ; ' and here, in what is called the harhoiw 2}ropcr, I am inclined to believe, took place this engag-e- ment. For in all the accounts I have read of this fight, my authorities invariably and distinctly define the position to be at the mouth of the Stour; and I think they would have been equally explicit in describing it, if the battle had occurred outside the harbour. As a further confirmation of my opinion, it is traditionally asserted that the projection on the SuiFolk shore, which separates the Orwell from the Stour, and known as Bloody Point, derived its name fi-om this sanguinary conflict. Prince Edward, and his mother, Queen Isabel," continued the Doctor, " landed here from Hainault, in 1327, with a force of 2,750 soldiers ; and the excite- ment, pomp, and circumstance of such an event can be more readily conceived than described." " What object had they in view ? " inquired Charles, who, with his brother, seemed to be wholly engrossed b}'' the historical account they had just heard. "To march," replied the Doctor, "ag-ainst their unfortunate sovereign, Edward II., who had ahenated the afifections of his peoi)le by his indolence and reckless conduct, exhibited more especially in lavishing on his worthless favourites, the Speusers and others, sucli (30 A SEASON AT IIAIUVICH. extravag-ant honours. On being- joined by several of the nobihtr, liearled by Tliomas de Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk, then Lord of the Manor of Har^^ich and Dovercourt, and resident at his palace in tlie town, they proceeded to Bristol." " I think," observed Mr. Benson, " that, admitting- the king's improvidence to have been great, the termination of his career mig-ht have been less trag'ical, but for the infidelity of his wife." "That, indeed," replied the Doctor, "was the natural con- sequence of Edward's thoughtlessness. Roger de Mortimer, tlie Queen's paramour, was the prime mover of the conspiracy; and he and his party, availing- themselves of the popular outcry against the Spensers, under the pretence of freeing- the kingdom of sxich luiworthy associates, seized and judicially killed them ; and, htiving dethroned their sovereign, took the reins of government into their own hands. Thus the various members that comjtosed this faction, and who were much more guilty than tliose tliey had ostensibly sacrificed to appease the public rage, were hailed by the populace as the saviours of the countr}-." " This landing- must have been considered as an important event in the town annals ; " observed liliss Archer. "By no means, compared with many of which I c-an fiu-nish you wdtli information," said the Doctor; "for the same Prince Edward, wdien he was Edward III., embarked at this port, July 16th, 1338, with a fleet of about five hundred sail, manned with archers and slingers, on his first expedition ag-ainst France; and again returned to Harwich, February 21st, 1310, leaving hostages for his return in a week after Midsummer. Tlie French, in retaliation, made an attempt ujion the town, but, alarmed at its strength, withdrew their forces. In the same year, Edward ag-ain assembled his fleet here, consisting- of ^260 stout sliips,' and weig-hed for France : but meeting- with a French armament, num- bering- four hundred sail, with 40,000 soldiers and mariners on board, that was stationed near Slu3's, in Flanders, to intercept his passage, a sanguinary engagement ensued, in which nearly 30,000 of the French were slain or captured; and Edward, with his victorious fleet, entered the harbour of Sluys next day in triumi)h. "I trust," continued the Doctor, turning- to Miss Archer, CHAPTEK V. 61 "you have already perceived that Harwich was a \)\ace of g-reat consequence in hy-g'one times — times wliicli may return. Your deficiency of information, madam, with regard to tlie important events with which the port was tluis intimately connected, and the importance of the town itself is, unfortvmately, hut too g'enerally participated in hy even the more intelhg*ent portion of the nation." " Of course," observed Miss Benson, coming to the assistance of her friend, " Hemy VIII., whilst staying- at New Hall, occasion- ally visited this port." "There is on record," rejjlied the Doctor, "a visit he paid on the 8th of June, loiS; most prohahly to inspect his navy, to which he paid g'reat attention; and, strang-e as it may appear to modern ideas, he, and the monarchs of that age, were accustomed to freight their ships, in times of peace, to merchants." " Did Phihp II., of Spain, before or after his marriage with Queen Mary, visit this port .'' " inquired Walter. " I cannot determine tliat point ; " answered Dr. Bremmer. " I onl}' know that there is an account of the town's-people prepar- ing-, in March, 1053, for his reception; but whether he honoured them with his presence, I have not been able to ascertain; nor whether Queen Mary did. But on the 12th of August, 1501, Queen Elizabeth visited the place, and accepted an entertainment from the borough ; lodg-ing- for several days, as it is said, in ' about the middle of High Street,' or what is now, I think, called Church Street, where there still exist some curious old houses, built in the style of the period, which I shall have gi-eat pleasure in pointing- out when we visit the town. On taking her departure, Elizabeth was attended by the magistrates as far as a windmill, that stood near the angle formed by the road to the esplanade, at the foot of the redoubt. She then g-raciously demanded of them what they had to request from her. Their reply was, ' Nothing, but to wish your Majesty a good journey.' Upon which, Elizabeth, turning- her horse about, and looking* upon the town, said, ' A pretty town, and wants nothing- ; ' and so bade them farewell." " Was not Harwich, Dr. Bremmer," inquired Mr. Benson, "threatened by the Spaniards with an attack, in the reig-n of our first Charles, when this country M'as at war with Spain.'" 62 A SEASON AT IIAIIWICH. "Yes," said the Doctor; "it was in the year 1625, at the com- mencement of that monarch's reign, that a Spanish fleet caused some akirm by appearing- ofi" Harwich ; but they made no attempt to hmd, when they perceived the strength of its defences." " I shoidtl think," observed Mr. Benson, " that most of the sovereigns and nobihty of these reahms must, some time or other, have visited this phice, or have used its port, so well adapted as it seems to be by Providence, for any exigence, and being the only natural harbour on our eastern coast ; indeed, the only port between the Humber and the Thames." " It was," said Dr. Bremmer, " before the application of steam- vessels, a great packet-station for Northern and Central Europe, as well as the place of embarkation for passengers to the prin- cipal parts of the continent ; and when the railway, which I have before alluded to, is completed to Manningtree, distant twelve miles from Harwich, we shall, if the authority of the late Mr. Waghorn is to be relied upon, not only make it available for those parts again, but for the journey, via Trieste, to India. But, before we proceed ftirther," added the Doctor, " I will briefly inform you of the remaining royal visits, so far as my memory will serve, and the importance of the place will develope itself, as well as be a topic for future discussion. In some of the naval engagements between the English and the Dutch, in the reign of Charles II., the contending parties approached so near to the town, as to render the operations visible to the spectators on the cliffs. When Harwich was fortified, at the time that the English were at war with the Dutch, in 1G66, Charles II., having proceeded from Newmarket to Landguard Fort, sailed hither in his yacht, accompanied by the Dukes of York, Monmouth, Richmond, and Buckingham, and, with others of his suite, attended divine service at tlie parish church ; in the evening the royal party embarked for Aldborough, whence they proceeded by land to Ipswich. About tliis time, his majesty caused two sloops to be built here, of a small draught of water, to protect the access to the harbour, then much infested by small Dutch picaroons. King William III. twice visited the port, on his passage to Holland, during the war with France. On the first occasion, he slept at the house then belonging to CHAPTER V. (j;j ii Mr. Tliomns Lang-ley, in Cliurcli Street ; and on recently removing- some old panels to enable 0. J. Williams, Esq., to modernise liLs residence in tliis street, marks were discovered which leaves no doubt that his is the identical house formerly occupied by Mr. Lang-ley. Here it was that the corporation waited upon his majesty, and were graciously received by him. Georg-e I., and Georg-e II., were here several times, on their respective journies to and fi"om the continent; and also Frederick, Prince of Wales, father of Georg-e III., who stayed for a short time at the ' Three Clips,' of which excellent house I shall have occasion to say more at some futiu'e time." "Did not Charlotte, afterwards the consort of Georg-e III., disembark here ? " inquired Miss Archer. " The Princess Mecklenburg'-Strelitz," replied Dr. Bremmer, "landed on the 6th of September, 17G1, having- been broug-ht over by Lord Anson ; and, repairing- to Witham, slept there the first nig-ht of her arrival in realms, which, for a long- Hfe, she adorned with every virtue ; the corporation, I need scarcely say, received her with the usual honours. To conclude, I shall subjoin a ver}-- interesting- account of the visit of a royal part}^, that I received from ni}' excellent old friend , who had been for manv years connected with the corporation. ' On Monday, the 29th of Aug-ust, 1808, about half-past five, p.m., his majest3''s fi-ig-ate Earyalus, commanded by the Honourable Captain H. S. Dundas, arrived at this port, having on board, the Countess de Lille, consort of Louis XVIIL, the Duke and Duchess d'Ang-ouleme, the Count and Countess de Damas, Count Etienne, and twenty-seven other persons in their suite, with a very larg-e quantity of bag-g-ag-e, the wreck of their fortunes. The Count and Countess de Damas and the Count Etienne, landed in the coiu-se of the evening-, and slept that nig-ht at the ^ Three Cups.' About six o'clock the next morn- ing-, the Count and Countess d'Ang-ouleme came on shore, and proceeded immediately on their journey; and about an hour after- wards the Countess de Lille landed at the Ang-el Stairs, attended by Captain Dundas, amidst the acclamations of the g-ood folks of Harwich and Dovercourt. Major-General Robinson, who then commanded at Harwich, met her Royal Highness at the stairs, by 64 A SEASON' AT IIARWU'H, wlioin slio wiis conducted to a carnag-e drawn hj six horses. On her leaviuLi' the frig-ate, a royal sahite was fired, the yards were manned, and the bells of St. Nicholas announced her landing, and continued ringing- during' the remainder of the day. She set off immediately for Gosfield Hall, in this count}', the seat of the Marquis of Buck- ing-ham ; now possessed by Edward G. Barnard, Esq., M. P. for Greenwich. The Grenadier Company of the Royal Westminster Regiment of Middlesex Militia, was stationed near the Market- place, and as she passed in her carriage, the band of that regiment played God save the Khifj. A great concourse of people assembled on the occasion, and joy was visible on the countenance of every individual to think that this party had arrived safe in England, and thus escaped the veng-eance of that scourge to Europe, Bona- parte ; while every possible attention was paid to them, which their rank and misfortunes could require.' The last sad scene of royalty here, was the arrival of the remains of that unfortunate lady. Queen Caroline, consort of George IV. ; from whence they were conveyed, by the GJasfjow frigate, to Cuxhaven, to be interred in the family musoleum at Brunswick." * The Doctor, g-lancing- at his watch, led the way to the mansion, where g-enerous hospitality was abundantly shown; and, having- partaken of an elegant luncheon, they left, highly delig-hted with what they had seen, and much g-ratified with the kind reception given them. The party, passing through the first gate, turned in the direction of the town, and tlien took the road diverging to the rig'ht, and leading to the Beacon Hill, a promontory, which, being at a very considerable elevation, naturally commands an extensive prospect. " In Silas Taylor's time," remarked Dr. Bremmer, " there existed on this site considerable remains of an ancient fortification, which, he observes, ' show not only labour and pains in the greatness of the undertaking-, but also the marks and tokens of a g-reat antiquity ; ' a remnant of which is now before you, and most antiquarians have agreed that it was formerly a tiuiiulus. This is the mound that I promised to direct your attention to, and behind which a Roman camp trended in a northerly direction, and towards Avhat * Researches C. CHAPTER V. 05 was tbe principal gate to the town. Since that time an incal- culable extent of land has been swallowed up by the sea." " How," inquired Mr. Benson, " has it attained the name of Beacon Hill?" " From the fact," replied Dr. Bremmer, " of a signal-house and telegraph standing- here, even within the memory of man}- of the present inhabitants ; but their site has been long* swept away by the ocean. In 1781, two regiments of militia were encamped here — the Suffolk and Bucks, the latter being commanded by the noble and gallant Duke of Buckingham ; and here his Grace was presented by the officers of his line corps, with a splendid piece of plate, in testimony of his worth and the respect they bore him ; but, I am sorry to add, this same memorial was publicly sold by auction at the late sale of his successor's magnificent effects, at Stow : a striking- instance of the mutability of all human affiirs. But to retiu-n to our subject ; in the year 1803, extensive barracks were erected on this ground, from which circumstance it changed its name to Barrack Field, and by this title it is now recognised." " What number of troops," inquired Walter, " were accommo- dated here?" Dr. Bremmer repHed, ''six field-officers, twenty-two captains, forty-four subalterns and staff, 2,000 non-commissioned officers and privates, and 120 horses, and this contimied till the general peace in 1815 : in the year 1819 the barracks were pulled down, and the materials sold. The land has, since that time, been in pasture, and, with some judicious planting-, is now a delightful appendage to Cliff House. It has been conjectured that Landg-uard Fort formerly stood in Essex ; certain it is, that at one time the officers of Ord- nance in the Tower of London, writing about the Fort, described it to be in that county, and a continuance of this field — the two rivers passing to the north-east of Landguard Fort, and discharging- their waters into Hollesley Bay. Not only do the remains of a channel still exist, called 'the Fleets,' but the bed of the harbour strengthens the supposition, for in removing- certain banks that obstructed the free entrance of large vessels into the port, the dredging machines, which you observe are still at work, have removed large quantities of soil, of exactly the same formation as o 06 A SEASON AT IIARWICIT. tlie cliif itself, tog-ether with j)iles and otlier materials, showing- man had been at work there." " How is it possible, then," said Mr. Benson, " that the otlier channel you alluded to, could get filled up, in opposition to the returning- currents of those two powerful tidal streams, the Stom* and Orwell ? " "Possibly from this circumstance," replied the Doctor; "the sliing-le, which travels fi'om the North Sea, mig-ht have accumulated here in such vast quantities, that, in course of time, it encroached until it at leng-th choked up the channel. This supposition fully agrees with the opinions of many to whom I have been directed for information on the subject, and does not militate ag-ainst the laws that g-overn the travelling- of shing-le, &c. As an instance of the effect of chang-es in the currents on this coast, let me direct you to Landg-uard Point on the opposite side. I was informed by a captain in the royal navy, that he recollected entering- the harbour in a vessel so closely to the southern part of the fort, that it would have required no extraordinary effort for him to have thrown a biscuit into it ; the point, however, has increased xuitil it now forms a bank extending- 820 yards therefrom." " In projecting- this breakwater," observed Mr. Benson, " was it not supposed that the structure would prevent any farther encroach- ment ? " " It was the opinion of many scientific persons," said the Doctor, " that the strong- ebb from those two magnificent rivers, would thus receive a new direction and act with sufficient force to keep the point at Landguard from encroachmg farther upon the mouth of the harbour, and this was imagined from the circumstance of the Beacon Cliff having- formerly extended to the distance of the present break- water, during which time the channel was kept clear. But I am inclined to think that Fehxstow Ledge gave the greatest check to the shoals of shing-le that each returning- tide broug-ht with it. The removal of this Ledge commenced in 1806, when permission was first given to take away the rock. During the period between 1806 and 1842, when further excavation upon the government lands was prohibited, millions of tons of this stone were removed, that had formed a safe Ijarrier against the scouring tendency of the currents CHAPTER V. 67 of the North Sea on tluit shore, and the consequence lias been the great increase of sliing-le at Landguard Point." However interesting* the observations of the g'ood Doctor might be to the curious in such matters, the subject, it was thought, might possibly fail to interest the ladies. Dr. Bremmer, therefore, sug-g-ested that Walter and the young- gentlemen should accompany them as far as the esplanade, at the bottom of the grass slope. " What is the length of the promenade ? " inquired Miss Archer. " It is nearly one mile and a quarter from the town to the end of the breakwater, which stretches 1,524 feet out to sea ; and, with the walk formed under the cliff to the south, is little short of two miles in length." " In that case," replied Miss Archer, " I would prefer, with yoiu- kind permission, to remain and hear further discourse on a subject in which I feel much interested." This was said, perhaps, in consideration for her friend and pupil, Elizabeth, who, with Walter and the two boys, were soon after seen seated at the end of the breakwater, enjoying the novel position of being at sea on ferra^frma. The Doctor and Mr. Benson having in turn paid their compH- ments to the good taste manifested by the young lady in requesting to remain, the former resumed his discourse. " A royal commission, of which Admiral Sh Byam Martin, K.C.B. was the head, and Admiral Dundas, C.B., M.P., and others, were members, appointed to report upon the state and condition of the various havens, as harbours of refuge, at once selected Harwich, having foimd it capable of aftbrding excellent anchorage for a numerous fleet, that could at any time of tide seek its capacious port, and iind perfect security from the stormy elements. Accord- ingly, the first money voted by parhament was ceded to Harwich, and Mr. Walker, the celebrated engineer, was appointed to consti-uct and direct the improvements which have ended in a breakwater and other important works just completed. From the year 1704 to the period of granting permission to take the stone from Felixstow Ledge, Landguard Point was stationary, as I have already men- tioned ; while, on the other hand, the loss of land on the Harwich side has been deplored for ages past. Just one hundred years ago, OS A SEASON AT HARWICH. it was proposed to protect it by a de.scrii)tion of breiikwater (litierent to tlie one just mentioned, but it was not executed ; and now, after the loss of upwards of forty acres of land, as here shown l)y the l)lan copied from one made in 1709, we witness the completion of this long'-desired object." " Do you think," inquired Mr. Benson, " the breakwater will prevent the increase of Landyuard Point, without constructing- another at Felixstow ? " " On that point," said the Doctor, " I withhold my opinion, or rather bow to the judgment of others, who believe that the mere removal of the Altar Shoal will have the desired effect." By this time, the young- folks had returned, when the Doctor said ; " as the continuation of this topic might fail to be of sufficient interest to keep up the curiosity already excited, I propose that we l)ay a visit to my facetious fi-iend, ]Mr. Rogers; -and I am sure all will be delighted with the panorama exhibited by his camera obscura, and his amusing conversation will afford a good opportunity for a chansre in our observations." Accordingly, the party descended from the Beacon Cliff, by an easy declivity ; and passing- the foot of the Redoubt, at once pro- ceeded to inspect the exhibition. They were liighly gTatified with the views presented, and Miss Archer pointed to several vessels which were entering the harbour, as g'iving- some slight idea of the surpassing- loveliness of the scene that must be witnessed on the days of the regatta, held annually under the direction of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club ; and, after a short but agreeable chat, during- which their weather-beaten informant did not forget to tell them that Professor Henslow had recently paid Harwich a visit, with upwards of two hundred of his parishioners, and as many of his friends from Ipswich, they, with many thanks for his attention, took their leave. ** This excellent man," observed Dr. Bremmer, " the Reverend Professor, resides at Hitcham, in the coxuity of Suffolk, about three miles from Hadleigh ; and many of his parishioners, out of the number whom he so generously indulg-ed with the excursion just alluded to, for the first time beheld, from the Beacon CHff, the wonders of the mighty deep. Their surprise and admiration, as their .1 SURVKY of Ok- or MADE llf 1709 . References . A. The rimffcluir„/'tyir top ot-t/tr Oifif .ti/ii'j- //ir y/v/r i^o^. B. ^f J)? ^ in. 173%. C . Thf present Lon which occasion Pepys, who was naval secretary at the time, in his * Since this was written, the example so beneficially set by the worthy Professor, has been followed by many others, among whom we record, with high gratification, the names of the Reverends Cobbold and Daniels. 70 A SEASON AT HARWICH. Diary, observes, ^ the King- has just given Sir William Batten a license to erect lighthouses at Harwich. If these grants be continued, they will become great jobs.' With such permission, two houses, or beacons, were soon afterwards erected, which were rebuilt in 1759. On the death of Sir William, the property descended to his son-in-law, Sir Isaac Rebow, then Recorder and M.P., for Colchester. He was succeeded by his son, Isaac Lemyng* Rebow, Esq., who sat in parliament for the same borough; to him succeeded liis son. Colonel Rebow, of Wivenhoe Park, in this county, also M. P. for Colchester. On the death of the last-named g-entleman, the lease was renewed for a term of sixty years, and on his demise, the property descended to his daughter, and eventual sole heiress, Mrs. Rebow, wife of the late General Slater Rebow, of Wivenhoe Park, who died in 1845. In 1818, the lease Avas again renewed to the Rebow family for thirty- one years ; the Crown, however, then reserving- to itself three-fifths of the tolls, and requiring- new lig-hthouses to be built, on an improved principle, which the present structures exhibit. In 1836, under the authority of an Act of Parliament, the interest in the Crown leases, and of the Rebow family, was purchased by the Honourable Corporation of Trinity, at a cost of £75,000 ; and under their exclusive management and control they have since continued." A short walk across the Green broug-lit them to the upper Light- house, standing at the south-western entrance to the town. This building- is a nonagonal tower, ninety -three feet in heiglit, having- six stories, exclusive of an elegant lantern, in which are nine lamps, with reflectors similar to those mentioned in the smaller building-. In the third floor is a single lamp, called the Harbour Light, which was there fixed in January, 1848, and shows three colours, seen from various points at sea. " For what object is it thus placed ? " inquired Mr. Benson. " I will explain the whole," said Dr. Bremmer. " First, then, the object of building' tliis lighthouse so much higher than the one we have just left, was that the light it exliibited might be seen above the other when the two were in a direct line with a vessel out at sea, and in tliis position mariners were enabled to avoid the sands called CHAPTER V. 71 'the Andrews,' and guided to tlie 'Rolling' Ground/ (where tliere is good anchorage,) and thence into the harbour. But the shingle accumulated to such a degree at Landgiiard Point, that it was found necessary to fix a light at that Fort. The original course — keeping the two tower hghts m one — is now only available for a certain distance ; when the three colours, wliich are shown from both the fort and hghthouse, present themselves, they become of use according to the line of direction in which they are viewed." * " I should tliink that the changes at the mouth of the harbour, since 1848, must have occasioned considerable trouble and danger, " observed Mr. Benson. The Doctor, without direct reply to Sir. Benson's remark, con- tinued ; " the new Sailing Directions, for the Fort and Harboui*, explain these alterations so clearly, that mariners, notwithstanding- the encroachment just alluded to, experience no difficulty whatever in entering' it by day or nig'ht." By this time they had ascended the steps to the entrance of the upper tower ; here the ladies preferred remaining until the rest of the party should have completed their inspection. They found the building to be fire-proof, and of a most interesting and durable construction. No timber had been employed in its formation, the rooms being entirely built of brick, and the whole covered with a copper cupola roof. The lantern was found to be protected with large plate-glass of the best quality, in cast-iron frames ; the whole arrangements being of the most effective character. " It is my impression," said Walter, " that I have somewhere read that these lighthouses were once illuminated by coal fires." " Very likel}'," said Dr. Bremmer, " such was the case as regards a light that at a former, and no very distant period did the service of that under our observation. The old practice of exhibiting the flame from such a fire, commenced in the year 1066, over what was then the Town Gate, and continued until 1818 ; but the one on the ' Heath,' as it was called, was hghted Avith six candles, each weighmg- one pound. Among the improvements eflfected at this latter date, was the substitution of oil-lamps for both these modes * The Trinity -Ho use Notice on this head is dated 22nd August, 1841. T'J A SEASON AT IIAUWICH. of illinnination ; thus insuring- the benefit of a steady and constant ho-ht." Leaving" the liglithouse, they rejoined the ladies; wlio, it appeared, were folly engaged, in admiring and making- their observations on the exterior of the building- : all declaring- it to be at once elegant in form, imposing in height, and substantially built.* Dr. Bremmer now led the way to the Arsenal and Ordnance Depot, in front of which the party noted the pyramid of cannon balls, and a large collection of most formidable-looking- guns and mortars, and passed on to where the military stores are kept for the forts and batteries on the coast ; of these there are several between Harwich and the estuary of the Colne and Blackwater. The Arsenal is a red-brick building', claiming- little attention for its architecture : it was built about forty year ago, with the Redoubt, Magazines, &c. when the Government House came first into possession of the crown. A bowling-green and gardens, much resorted to by the town's-people, formerly occupied the place, but they were compelled to make way for these costly government erections. The Doctor observed, they were considered to be, iind, indeed, no doubt were, necessary for the defence of this part of the coast, at the time these fortifications were built, but such gTcat changes have taken place in the mode of warfare since the date referred to, that it is not improbable, in a few years, the lands thus occupied may return to their former social and peacefiil uses. Not that they have been employed otherwise ; for, since first erected, " not a defensive shot, I am happy to say," continued the Doctor, " has been fired ag-ainst an enemy. Very little that would interest visitors can be met with in these buildings, beyond the information derivable from the knowledge of those who are in office. Major Wulff, R. E., is commander, having- a large military district in his jurisdiction. His residence is a large and eleg-ant house, with the necessary offices, and an excellent g-arden attached. Mr. CorneHus Sharp is storekeeper. He, also, has an excellent and spacious house, with its offices and g-arden. In the latter is a summer-house overlooking the esplanade, and embracing beautifid sea views; but apart fi'om this, it is an object of very great interest, being * Researches C. CHAPTER V, 7 a formed from the trunk of an old tree that formerly stood as a land- mark at no gTeat distance from this spot. I call attention to it Mh' THE •• TREE " AS IT NOW APPEARS. here, that it may receive your close inspection, but shall g'ive more of its history when we reach the spot it once occupied." The party, leaving- the Storekeeper's Department, directed their attention to the Circular Redoubt, which crowns the summit of a mound artificially raised to an elevation considerably above the cliff, situate a short distance to the south of the town. This forti- fication had been the subject of some slig-ht manifestations of impatience in the anxiety showni by Henry and Charles to make a closer inspection of the formidable-looldng- pieces of ordnance they had, from various points, seen in the distance ; and, Avhile the other members of the party were leisurely ascending- the g-lacis, and admiring- the beauty of the prospect, which l)pcame more interesting at every step, the young- gentlemen were observed peeping- through the thick bushy hedge raised to prevent individuals or cattle falling- into the deep ditch surrounding- the structure. 74 A SEASON AT HARWICH. "A Redoubt," observed Mr. Benson, in reply to a question from Elizabeth, " is a name given to this class of fortifications ; thus a })arapet enclosing- a square or polyg-onal area, is occasionally so culled, but the term applies more particularly to this circular work ; and, according- to all received authorities on the subject, it is the most serviceable form that could have been adopted in such a situa- tion, as the g"uns can be brought to bear so as to command any part of the harbour as well as the land around it." By this time they had passed over the drawbridge ; and, to the discriminating eye of the Doctor, it was at once apparent that the young people had not been led, from the external appearance of the fortification, to anticipate such works of magnitude as were presented within, and while their attention was drawn to the ponderous carriages, mounted with guns pointing throug'h the embrasures in every direction, as well as to the area far below them, the Doctor and Mr. Benson leisurely walked round tlie fortress, and examined the building, which they found to consist of a single story, separated into compartments, some serving as barracks for the troops, and others for the preservation of ammunition and other defensible stores, looldng and opening into the area. The terreplein over the apart- ments, and on which the party were walking, has been made bomb- proof, and the wall rising above it, forms a parapet to defend the men from the shot of a besieging force. Behind this is a battery mounted with ten twenty-four-pounders, on traversing platforms. The garrison at this time consisted of a company of a line regiment ; the commissioned officers being, a captain commanding, and a lieut- enant ; besides this military detachment, there were also a sergeant and four gunners belonging to the Royal Artillery'. Mr. Benson, who appeared much interested in the subject, rem.arked, " I perceive that the to^v^l stands witliin the range of the shot, so that little shelter would be afforded to an enemy in possession of it, for any lengih of time." The Doctor said, that while the fortification was so well arranged it would be next to impossible for an enemy to effect an entrance into the town; yet, if it were once taken, the heavy gnms could be speedily brought to bear with terrific effect upon tlie invaders. " I am imder no npprehension," continued the CHAPTER V. 75 Doctor, " tliat tlie town of Ilai'wicli will bo called to suffer in this respect ; nor do I suppose that it will in the very limited deg-ree that persons have told me would result from the friendly filing of a few cannon-balls over the town — the destruction of many of the ■windows of the inhabitants. It is a subject of which the military authorities are very jealous ; and instances are upon record where convenient and expensive building's have been razed to the gTound on the plea of the range being interfered with." On descending" the staircase that led to the officers* quarters, the party had an opportunity of ascertaining; the thickness of the walls, and were surprised to find them of such gTeat strength, being- built of hard stock bricks set in cement, and capable of resisting- almost any amount of force that could be broug-ht ag'ainst them. Having- inspected the soldiers' quarters, which, as in all cases where British troops are concerned, were remarkably clean and comfortable, being- well aired and ventilated, the pai-ty again ascended, here the young- gentlemen continued to gaze upon the deeply-sunk miM^< INTERIOR OF THE REDOUBT. area wliich had called forth their astonishment and admiration, and reluctantly left the scene when they observed the rest of the party re-crossing- the drawbridge. Dr. Bremmer proposed, that as their dinner-hour was near at hand, the}' should depart ; accordingly, after an exchange of civilities, they took their leave of Cajjiaiu . 7G A SEASON AT IIAIIWICII. Upon leaving- the Redoubt tlio Doctor, looking- in a nortlieni direc- tion, pointed out to liis friends the " Tree," now converted into a summer-house in the Storekeeper's g-arden, to which he had before called the attention of the party, and observed, that, previous to the building' of the redoubt, there stood, on the site it now occupies, this venerable elm tree, which for three centuries was the only land-mark to guide vessels safely into the harbour, escaping- the dang-ers of g-rounding* on the ' Hollidays ' and ' Stonebank.' It was situate on the summit of the hill, bearing' about west from the loAver lighthouse, from which it was distant about two hundred yards, and was known to mariners as ' Paine's Tree/ but better, locally, as ' the Hollow Tree ; ' arising- from the fact of the trxmk having- become so decayed as to present the appearance of a mere shell ; yet some of the branches shot forth their leaves with the returning- spring, and it might still have survived, green in its old ag-e, but the sj)irit of modern improvement decreed its destruction, and it was cut down on the 31st of May, 1808, to make way for the fortification we have just inspected. Part of its trxmk, thatched, and covered with ivy, and having- seats passed around its interior, forms the summer-house to which I directed your attention a short time since. In an old map of Harwich and its environs, prepared before the reign of Elizaljeth, this tree forms a very prominent object. The hill upon which this venerable land-mark stood, did not long- remain after it, being-, with the house called ' the Hill-House,' levelled in the summer of the same year, and for the same purpose." "From this elevated and delightful spot," said Mr. Benson, " who can help exclaiming- with the poet — ' Beats there a heart which hath not felt its core Ache with a Avild delight, when fii'st the roar Of Ocean's spirit met tlie startled ear ? Beats there a heart, so languid and so drear. That hath not felt the lightning of the blood Flash vivid joy, when first the rolling flood Met the charmed eye, with all its restless strife, At once the Avonder and the tj-pe of life ? ' " 71 CHAPTER VI. IN WHICH IS DETERMINED THE NEXT DAv's VISIT; AND ALSO AN ACCOUNT GIVEN OF THE DOCTOIl's MUSEUM. NOTWITHSTANDING their fatig-ue, the party found on their return liome, that the excursion had given them an appetite sufficiently keen to enable them to do ample justice to the simple, but abundant repast, provided by their good fiiend and host, Mr. Benson hailed, -odth no small dehght, the manifest improve- ment in his daughters health, brought about, doubtless, by the change of air, and the soft fresh south breeze that bestowed its healthful influences aroiuid them, and elevated as "vvell the spirits of the whole party. Man}- times over, the Doctor was asked what else of interest remained to be seen in or about Harwich; the direction of then* next visit ; how they shoidd travel ; and similar questions. After discussing and expatiating on the merits of numerous interesting objects, it was determined that the next day should be devoted to an excursion to Walton-on-the-Naze. This being settled, Walter observed, that whilst promenading towards the breakwater, he had particularly noticed large quantities of stone at the foot of the masonry, recently erected to protect this part of the cHfi^, and inquii'ed if tliis was not the cement stone which the Doctor had before adverted to. " This is," said the Doctor, " the sej)taria, from which cement is made, and in and about which are found fossil shells and petrifactions. The stone was excavated in clearing for the foundation of the works you have named. Here the chff", similar to that which can still be inspected southward of Mr. Bagshaw's improvements, is formed of various broken seams of this stone, intermixed with strata of fine sand, crag, and pebbles, blended with fossil shells of the bivalve and imivalve kinds, and rising to within a few feet of the surfoce, the whole restin"- on a substratum of blue claw Formerly the streets 78 A SEASON AT HARWICH. of Harwich were paved with masses of this substance, which luid fallen fi-om the chff, and, as is supposed, becoming indurated by exposure to the action of the atmosphere, assumed the hardness of stone. The walls that anciently surrounded the town, were also built of this. On inspecting- that part of the cliff still remaining, you will also find masses of common gravel and clayey earth, filled with numerous pieces of a white friable substance, called talc; this is a calcareous spar deposited from lime, and exists in the argillaceous deposit around Harwich ; and, as our great metro- polis rests on a foundation of this character, it is known as London clay, in which the remains of a great variety of fossil shells, as those of the crocodile and turtle, have been found, with masses of petrified wood." " I should experience great pleasure," said Walter, " in making myself more acquainted with the geological formation of the cliff; and if 3'ou, sir, will favour me with a little of your instruction on the subject, I shall derive additional pleasure fi-om my visit to it." The Doctor, readily consenting, proposed, in furtherance of this object, an inspection of what he termed liis Harwich Museum, which his friends had not yet seen ; the proposal was, of course, most eagerly embraced. The Doctor led the way to a small suite of rooms, fitted up with glass-cases and presses, filled with shells, minerals, stuffed animals, and, in short, as the Doctor said, with a pardonable degTee of pride, ^'a complete collection, for illustrating the natural and geological history of Harwich and the neighbourhood." The first case examined was filled with minerals and fossils. The Doctor pointed out a sort of petrifaction, or rather incrustation of wood, which he said was what the chemists call osteocoUa, or bone- binder ; several specimens of different coloured spars ; mock crystals, having the appearance of talc; amber, which he acknowledged, though some had been found on Landguard Beach, was scarce on the coast ; copperas stones, of which some contained small quantities of gold or silver, others only u'on, and some a little copper. In another case were those remains of animals or vegetables, which had so far, in appearance at least, changed their nature as to look hke stone ; but the Doctor explained that what is generally CHAPTER VI. 79 called petrifaction, is nothing- more tlian an incnistation of stone over the body, said to he petrified j thoug-h, in some instances, as in many of the specimens hefore them, the stony particles had so insinuated themselves into the pores of the wood and animal remains, that the hitter had lost much of their distingaiishing* characteristics. The next department was marked " Turbinated Fossils," and the contents consisted of univalve shells, or those which appear as if formed of only one piece, as the whelk, the snail, &c., all of them picked out of the cliff, though by no means exclusively peculiar to Harwich. Then came a beautiful collection of bivalve shells, some of them having- still a portion of the cliff adhering- to them. The other cases in this room were occupied by the remains of animals — some marine, others altogether terrestrial — which had been found also in a fossil state in the cliff. In the next room they found a collection of dried plants, consist- ing- first of marine plants, as the sponges, corals, mosses, sea-weeds, of various kinds, and some varieties of samphire. Other cases were filled with specimens of those growing- in the marshes, or hedg-e-sides of the neighbourhood, nearly all collected by the indefatigable personal industry of the Doctor; wliile the amazing- number of grasses which filled several cases, attested at once their variety, and the botanic science of Dr. Bremmer. Upon coming- to another case, containing- the shells of existing; bivalves, the Doctor took occasion to relate some particulars con- cerning the oyster, which, as they seemed to interest the party, we have chosen to insert here. This dehcious shell-fish is found in these waters in g-reat abundance. In IMay it exhibits spawn, called by tlie dredgers "spat," which has the appearance of a drop from a candle, and is about the size of a small spangle; this clings to stones, old oyster shells, pieces of wood, and such like objects lying- at the bottom of the sea, and is called " the clutch." It is con- jectm-ed that in twenty-four hours the spat is provided with a shell. In May, the dredgers, by the laws of the Admii-alty, have Hberty to take oysters of au}-- size. On securing- them, they g-ently separate the small brood from " the clutch," the latter thev au-ain return to the water, to preserve the ground for I'uture seasons, unless they are 80 A SEASON AT HARWICH. SO newly deposited that they cannot be safely severed from " the clutch/' in which case they are allowed to take the stone or shell, to which there are sometimes as many as twenty spats adhering-. Alter the month of May it is unlawful to remove " the clutch," or to take undersized oysters, the legal standard being" the circum- ference of half-a-crown, or that the two shells being- closed, u fair sliilHng- can be rattled between them. The places where these oysters are chiefly caug-ht, are Harwich Harbour, Burnham, Maldon, and the mouth of the river Colne. The brood thus taken are carried to Brig-htling-sea, Mersea, Lang-enhoe, Fing-ring-hoe, Wiven- hoe, and Tollesbury, where they are laid down in salt-water creeks, forming- what are called beds ; here they g-row and fatten, till in two or three years, the smallest will be of the size before- mentioned. When the tide flows the oysters lie with their hollow shells downwards, and, on the ebb they turn on the other side, but otherwise do not move from the spot wdiere they are placed, unless in cold weather, to shelter themselves Tinder the cliff". Oysters are sick after they have spat, but in June or July they beg-in to improve, and in Aug-ust are perfectly healthy. Besides the penalties for taking- fish otherwise than in the leg-ally appointed season, others are imposed for not treading- \mder foot, or throwing- on the shore, a fish called a five-finger, or spur-rowel, as tliis destructive enemy forces itself into the oyster, which it opens and devours. The reason assig-ned for inflicting- penalties for removing- " the clutch," is, that by its being- taken away, the oose will increase, and mussels and cockles breed, and thus destroy the oysters, from there being- nothing- for the spat to adhere to. The Doctor's collection of birds, thoug-h small in number, was imique in its kind. Here was the g-reat osprey, or sea eagle, the horned owl, several varieties of pheasants and partridges, the ring- dove, the wood-pigeon, sky and wood-larks; and among the aquatic and coast birds, the curlew, the snipe, the plover, and the sea-lark were conspicuous, as were also fine specimens of the wild swan, and others of that description ; and, in pointmg out to his guests a few curiosities of the martin and swallow tribe, the Doctor mentioned that the coast near Harwich was the annual rendezvous for these interesting birds, previous to their migration, where they assembled CHAPTER Vr. 81 in larg'e numbers, appearing- to wait for a favourable wind to waft them on their long- journey to more g-enial climes. The collection of fishes caug-ht in the adjacent seas and rivers, occupied the last room in the suite ; and the Doctor jocularly observed that tliis department was not quite complete, insomuch as there was no description of whale to be found in it ; this fisli had, nevertheless, been several times taken on the coast. Mr. Benson observed, that in reg-ard to fishes, the Doctor's speci- mens were much superior to those in the British Museum ; "no great comphment, however," he added, "as that otherwise magnificent collection, is notoriously deficient in this branch of natural history." Shortly after the inspection of the chief rarities in the Doctor's collection, the party adjourned for the nig-ht, to awaken to new scenes of interest. 82 A SEASON AT IIAHWICH. CHAPTER VII. FIRST EXCURSION. — THE PARTY VISIT DOVERCOURT ON THEIR WAY TO WALTON AND THE SOKENS. HE next clay proved to be propitious for their excur- ^ sion, the preliminaries of which being settled, it was agreed to prosecute it by land. Accordingly, they set out early enough to inhale the morning air, a practice the Doctor studiously laboured to impress upon his friends, himself setting the example ; showing, as he did, in his own healthM countenance, the salutary effects to be derived from rising with the lark, and enjoy- ing the new-born day with all its invigorating influences ; it being no unusual tiling- for him to have returned fi'om a plunge in the sea before the rest of the party had risen from their beds. Their route leading them in the direction of Dovercourt Church, they shortly afterwards arrived at that sacred edifice, when the Doctor kindly availed himself of the opportunity to describe, what they found to be an ancient building situate on the north side of the road. " I am not aware," said Dr. Bremmer, " of the exact date of its erection. It consists of a nave and chancel, having a square embattled tower, containing two bells and a clock. The east window has recently been restored, in the decorated style, at the joint charge of the late estimable gentleman, Nathaniel Garland, Esq., lord of the manor, and the feoffees of Strought's bequest. The font, notwith- standing its gTeat beauty, having been removed, was thrown in the churchyard, and there lay neglected for some years ; it is now, how- ever, restored to its former sacred use and position. Alberic de Vere, Earl of Oxford, in the reign of William Rufiis, founded a cell for some monks taken from the abbey of Abingdon, 'to serve God at Coin,' and endowed it with the church of Dovercourt ; wliich Hugh Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, of that family, confirmed, and gave withal the lately-built chapel at Harwich. The abbot and convent reserving to themselves the rectory, endowed a vicarage, of wlhch they continued patrons tiU the dissolution, when it came to the crown. It is now in the gift of CHAPTER VII. 8'6 the Lord Chancellor. The g-lebe and the lordship were given by James I., to Sir Georg-e Whitmore, whose posterity enjoyed the same for more than a hundred years. The Vicarag;e of Dovercourt," continued Dr. Bremmer, " tog-ether with the perpetual curacy of Harwich, were valued in the Kmcjs Booh at £5..0..10, and in 1831, at £228. The Rev. Samuel Nevill Bull, M.A., is the vicar, and also of the adjoining- parish of Ramsey. The g-lebe consists of thii-ty acres, and the vicarial tithes were commuted in 1842 for £134.. 2.. 9 per annum. Edg-ar W. Garland, Esq., is impropriator of the rectory and his tithes have been commuted for £300.. 16.. 10 per annum." The Doctor, who was about to g-ive a detailed account of all the previous possessions of the church, was, here, fortunately for the young- people, interrupted by the approach of Thomas Harvey, the sexton, with the kej^s. But the Doctor could not forbear men- tioning-, that formerly there was here a presbyter g'viild, or Fraternity of Saint Georg-e, with an endowment of lands and houses, and a g-arden at Harwich. The orig-inal building-, a little above, on the opposite side of the church, was either the site of the house, where the brethren were located, or part of the endowment. But this, with what else was appropriated to its maintenance, was disposed of by Queen Elizabeth, to Richard Hall and others, as appears by a deed dated March, 1571, in the fourteenth year of her reig-n. The Sexton observed, that if thing-s had continued to be as they were in Queen Mary's time, there woidd have been no occasion for his services, for then the church doors were open all day long-, '' ah ! and nig-ht too," the sanctity being- considered sufficient to protect it, more particularly by the presence of a miraculous crucifix ; but in Avhat its virtues consisted, the sexton confessed he coidd g-ive no information; but it attracted crowds of people to perform their devotions, and as many pilg-rims with their offering-s; making its possession a source of considerable income to the monks. The belief prevailed that sudden death would follow any attempt to close the door of this clmrch. It appears, however, that four sacrileg-ious rog-ues set out in the nig-ht from Dedham, a distance of sixteen miles, in order to test the powers of this idol, and entering- the church, seized the obnoxious rood, and having- carried it to the g-reen, there struck a light with a Hint and steel, ig-nited one of its 8J: A SEASON AT HARWICH. own tapers, and setting* it on fire, it was speedily reduced to ashes, tog-ether with all the trappings with which it was invested. The Doctor said, " this act proved to he of serious consequence to these iconoclasts of the sixteenth century, as three out of the four were convicted of the offence, executed, and hung- in chains, within six months ; as the hig-oted of those days considered it to be an unpardonable insult du-ected ag-ainst their faith. It is," he added, " much to be regretted that the commissioners appointed by Queen Elizabeth to investig-ate the affairs of the churches, displayed such rapacity in stripping- the monuments of their brasses and mural effig-ies, which had formerly ornamented them. This build- ing- participated largely in the destruction, as much of the stained glass was destroyed. Part, however, escaped, and existed for many years after in the north window of the chancel ; being' a device of the arms of Thomas Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk, fifth son of Edward I., and lord of the manor of Harvnch and Dovercourt." * Mr. Benson, whose love for antiquity was not quite so ardent as that of the Doctor, said ; " destruction of property, especially when consisting- of works of art, is at all times to be deplored, but from the circumstance of Mary's exacting- money (to purchase the plate, service-books, and imag-es, and even vestments, saints' -bells, candle- sticks, and other ornaments of her church) fi'om the poor Pro- testants, no wonder that they took the first opportunity which occurred to re-possess themselves of what had so unjustly been taken from them." Walter observed, that posterity had lost much by these unhappy dissensions, and although a sense of this deficiency might be of some value in preventing future ages fi'om making hke mistakes, still nothing- could compensate for the loss. Bending- their steps in the direction of the carriage, the party were soon progressing- on their pleasant journey. Miss Archer having noticed a peculiar kind of elm gTowing-, a short distance fi-om the road, the Doctor said that the parish of Dovercourt had long been famous for this particular description of timber, whicli was much used in the manufacture of agricultural imple- ments, having been celebrated in tlie Points of Hiishtmdric, written * Researches A. CHAPTER VII. 85 about the sixteentli century, by Thomas Tusser, the Suffolk Poet — "A Dovercourt beetle, "with, wedges of steel." It is still sought after for a like purpose, and for the naves of wheels, being- very durable, and not hable to spUt. Passing" one of the very few toll-g-ates still to be found in the county, on turning- to the left, they speedily entered on those green shady lanes, pictui'esquely tortuous, for which the neighbourhood is conspicuous : here and again, through the trees, appeared the bay, lying between Har-nnch and Walton-on-the-Naze. Reaching the small and scattered village of Little Oakley, Dr. Bremmer availed himself of the occasion to inform them that Admiral Sir Joshua Rowley, Bart., and Edward Norman, Esq., of Mistley Place, were the chief owners of the lands, in the parish. CHUECH TOWEK, LITTLE OAXLET. The clnu'ch, dedicated to St. Mary, is a very interesting structure, consisting of a tower, which must have formerly been embattled, containing four bells, on which are inscribed the respective dates 1612, 1G15, 1033, 1G52. The nave is of decorative architecture, though the tower is of the perpendicular period. The church is a beautifiU little model of the decoratetl English style, just prior to 80 A SEASON AT HARWICH. the transition, and tlioug-li not rich in detail, exhibits a considerable deg'ree of real beauty, and chaste conception. One g-reat peculiarity is to be noted in the entrance to the chancel. A buttress, pierced with a door of slig'ht enrichment, terminates in a weather-table, and resumes its original character and purpose, without appearing- in any way distorted. The Rev. Georg-e Burmester, M.A., of Balhol Colleg'e, Oxford, the present rector, who has the patronag-e of the living", has recently restored the whole of the stone-work of the chancel, during* which he discovered, imbedded in the wall on either side of the east window, the remains of a fine canopied niche, with crotchets and finials, which, it is presumed, were destroyed in the days of the Puritans. These niches he has successfully restored, which, tog"ether with a piscina of enriched ornament on the south side, that had escaped the ruthless hands of the destroyer, present subjects of real interest and attraction. The pulpit, a wretched wooden box, is situate in an angle of the church, leaving- a space behind sufiiciently larg'e for a man to descend by, and which was explored by a workman, employed to make repairs in the church, many years since, where he found some g'old coins, possibly depo- sited there in troublous times for security; but what else, has never been ascertained, for the rog-ue decamped with his booty, and has not since been heard of The encaustic tiles, forming- the pavement within the altar-rails, as well as the altar-rails, are new, but in good keeping with the rest of the chancel. The former were the g-iffc of Thomas Garrett, Esq., of Ilerne Hill, Dulwich, Surrey. The latter, that of E. Norman, Esq. At the same time that the church was restored, a handsome larg-e font was placed at the west end, which was copied from an elaborate example of perpen- dicular desig-n in the church of Ditching-ham, Norfolk,and which was presented by the rector and several of his personal friends. Nor has the incumbent confined his contributions to the repairs and decoration of the church. He has also alienated a piece of glebe ground for a site, and given £100 and upwards, towards building a National School, with a convenient residence for a teacher ; the buildings were completed at a cost of £535, in the year 1845. The rectory is a convenient red brick-built house, with a conser- vatory adjoining; excellent kitchen and flower-gardens; and thirty CHAPTER VII. 89 acres of g-lebe. In altering lately the di\dsions of the g-lebe-fields, a bank was levelled, and some ancient bronze British Celts were fonnd, probably of Roman manufacture, and somewhere about 1500 years old ; these are now in the possession of the rector. The church was probably erected early in the sixteenth century, the date of the first entry in the register being 1558. Among the miscellaneous papers in the chest, in the church of this parish, are some curious receipts for the payment of the proportion of the inhabitants towards the su])plies granted by parliament from time to time to the crown ; and Walter availed himself of the permission to transcribe several items in their original form.* Leaving the solitary church of Little Oakley on the right, the party soon arrived at Great Oakley Hall, a neat modern structure, erected on the site of a mansion of ancient date and considerable importance. The park, attached to it, the Doctor observed, was of so great extent, that, at a distance of nearly a mile to the west, some of its primeval oaks may still be found in a quiet grassy glade, undisturbed by that spu'it of agricultural enterprize which has long ago swept away their companions on the uplands, to make way for the plough. Part of the moat, by which the old wall was surrounded, is still remaining. In the fourteenth century it was one of the residences of the noble family of Plaitz ; and Norden informs us, that " a plaice fish," the cognizance of this family, was depicted "in divers parts of the house." Sir John Plaitz, dejure, the fourth Baron Plaitz, gave, or rather sold, his daughter and heiress, Margaret, in marriage to Su* John Howard, the progenitor of that illustrious family which owns as its head tlie Duke of Norfolk : a covenant being made that the father of the bridegTOom should pay to the father of the bride, '' pvo mnritag'w jiVuB suce,^^ the sum of three hundred marks of silver, by anniial instalments. At this house Sir John Plaitz received tlie payment for the year 1380, on the Thursday in Easter week ; and the receipt which he gave for it may be found in a manuscript account of the Howard family, drawn iip for Thomas, Earl of Arundel, by Camden, the antiquary, and now in the British Museum. * Researches C. K 90 A SEASON AT HARWICH. The Doctor, apologising for being- so talkative, thus proceeded — " The male issue of this lady, who, at her father's death, succeeded, de jure, to the Barony of Plaitz, expired with her son, and the Barony was carried, by his daughter Elizabeth, into the family of the Veres, Earls of Oxford, who became also the possessors of Great Oakley Hall, and like the Plaitzes, made it sometimes their residence. Their arms, together with those of the Howards, although no traces remain of them at the present time, shone on the painted glass of the windows, both in the church and the rectory house, at the Herald's Visitation, in 1639. In the wars of the Roses, they took the side of the House of Lancaster, and both the husband and the eldest son of the heiress of Great Oakley Hall were attainted at the accession of Edward IV., and beheaded. Her second son, however, survived to take an important part in the battle of Bos worth Field, and was reinstated in all his gi'eat possessions. It is not improbable that the present eastern window of the chancel of the clmrch was inserted in the place of an earlier one by the Earl of Oxford, and that the lieads, which form the corbels of the drip-stone, are those of the victorious king- Henry VII. and his queen. This window, underneath the high pitched roof of the chancel, forms a pleasing object as seen among the trees on the right-hand soon after we leave the village of Great Oakley j but the church is otherwise devoid of all pretensions to architectural beauty. There are several moniimental stones, the brasses of which, long since stripped off by sacrilegious hands, and evidently of a rich and highly ornamented character, mark the graves of some of the members of those distinguished families, whose connection with the place Ave have been recording." The Barony of Plaitz is now in abeyance. The last Earl of Oxford, of the Vere family, died in 1703 ; and the haU and manor of Great Oakley fell into the hands of William Leathes, Esq., Pay- master of the Forces in the time of the Duke of Marlborough. By his descendants they were sold to the grandfather of their present possessor, James Allen Bull, Esq. There is a tradition of a battle liaving been fought, at some remote period, on the confines of the two Oakleys, and several sepulchral urns, of ancient British workmanship, have lately been chscovered near the supposed battle field. But we regret to say, that they CHAPTER VII. 91 were irreparably mutilated in the discovery, and have not been preserved. The church is an ancient structure, and had a tower of flint and stone, but falling down about twenty years ag-o, it was replaced by one of wood ; it contains a sing-le bell, four others, which formerly belong-ed to it, having' been sold when the accident happened to the steeple. The rectory, valued at £751 per annum, is in the patronag-e of St. John's Colleg'e, Cambridg'e, and the present incumbent is the Rev. John Howard Marsden, B.D., formerly a Fellow of that CoUeg-e, and Rural Dean of the Deanery of Harwich, who has a neat and commodious brick residence, in the Elizabethan style, erected in 1836. Mr. Marsden, formerly had the honour of being' Hulsean Lecturer in the University of Cambridge. Attached to the rectory are about sixty acres of g'lebe. There are two alms- houses — one being the bequest of Richard Drake, who, in 1785, left funds in trust for the purpose, subject to the condition, that the parish should build the other j they accommodate eight poor parishioners. On quitting tliis interesting village, Mr. Benson perceived that the road had a decided curving to the left, and conjectured, from that circumstance, they were now approaching the head of the bay that separates Harwich from Walton; Landgiiard Fort, and the Chff on the Essex side, ever appearing at the same distance — though they had passed over between seven and eight miles of ground, enjoying an almost uninterrupted view of the German Ocean. Continuing their drive, after passing Blunt's Hall, they came to Beaumont-cuin-Moze, situate at the head of a creek, (called Hand- ford-water, a coast-guard station,) navigable for vessels of about seventy tons up to Beaumont Bridge, where there is a wharf and warehouse, built in 1832. The church is old, but has been recently put in thorough repair, at a cost of about £500. The rectory, valued at £670, is in the patronage of Guy's Hospital, and the present incumbent is the Rev. W. R. Browell, M.A. Walter remarked on the singularity of the circumstance, that a London Hospit-al shotdd have the })resentation to a living situate at the farthest extremity of Essex. 92 A SEASON AT HARWICH. Tlie Doctor explained, that tlie hospital in cpiestion was in the position of lord of the manors forming- the two parishes ; " for," said he, " Beaimiont was formerly a distinct parish from Moze, the latter extending* more than a mile along- the creek. It was not till the year 1678, that the two were consolidated." Dr. Bremmer further informed them, that some ruins of the old church of Moze, stm remain to attest its fonner independence. The travellers passing-, at a short distance, Thorpe-le-Soken, soon arrived at Kirby-le-Soken ; and, being- surprised at the oddity of the latter part of these names, demanded an explanation from then- guide. This was readily complied with by the Doctor, who said that it arose from a peculiar jurisdiction, exercised by the lords of this and other manors, distinguished by a similar addition to their names. These are three in number, Kirby, Thorpe, and Walton, and are called the Liberty of the Sokens. They have a separate ecclesiasti- cal court, in which wills are proved, and marriage hcenses g-ranted ; and it can, if occasion requires, be held every three weeks, at Thorpe Church, where the wills, &c., are deposited. A manorial court meets annually, on the 2Gth of July. The executors of the late B. Chapman, Esq., of Hai'wich, are lords of the manor and liberty, and appoint the commissary, (an office at present enjoyed by the vicar,) and a registrar, now represented by Edward Chapman, Esq., town clerk of Harwich. This peculiar privilege was first g-ranted by King- Athelstan, about the year 940, to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's. After the Reformation, the same privHege was accorded, with large estates, by Edward VI., to Sir Thomas Darcy, when he was created Baron Darcj. In addition to the privileges above enumerated, no bailiff can arrest within the boundaries of the jurisdiction of the lord of the manor, but his OAvn. John Martin Leake, Esq., has a handsome seat at Thorpe, called " The Hall." It was formerly the estate of Admiral Sir John Leake, Knight, who, bequeathing- this valuable property to a Mr. Martin, the latter, to transmit his benefoctor's name to posterity, took the name of Leake in addition to that of IMartin. Mr. Leake is a Bencher of the Middle Temple, and besides being- a most active magistrate of the county, fills, with the greatest credit to himself, the important office of Chairman of the Quarter Sessions. CIIAI'TEH VII. 9''i Dr. Bremmer observed that a curious circumstance happened at Tliorjie, about a century ag'o. " A g-entleman," said be, '' caUing' himself Mr. WiUiams, merchant, of Hambiu-g', landed in the Colne, with a singular chest, which the custom-house officers insisted on opening' ; they accomplished then' task, after much i-esistance from the gentleman, and found it to contain the embalmed body of a lady. Suspecting a mm'der had been committed, they seized both it and the stranger, who confessed that he was Lord Dalmeny, the eldest son of the Earl of Rosebery, born and educated in Ital}', and never in England till about thi'ee years before, when he visited Lon- don, and there became passionately in love with a beautifid lady, whom he married, and travelled with her over the continent, in hope of restoring her health. On her death-bed, at Verona, she confessed that her maiden name was Catherine Cannom, and that she was the lawful wife of the Rev. Mr. G , then vicar of Thorpe, in Essex, and requested her second husband to biuy her in that parish. Lord Dalmeny declared he did not know she had been previously married; and ultimately the two husbands became reconciled, and both attended her ftmeral. The Rev. Alex. Gough, B.A., was inducted to the ^dcarage here, in 1745, and was, we presume, the first husband of the beautifid ' Kate Cannom.' " The Doctor said that in Thorpe Church Avere to be found many emblems of mortahty of gi'eat interest to the antiquar}', which on a future occasion he hoped to explain to his visitors. "Within the parish of Kirby-le-Soken are included the two islands of Horsey and Pewit. The former, two mdes long, and one broad, belongs to that worthy and estimable man, Mr. Henry Blanshard, merchant, of London. It consists chiefly of excellent pasture, arable, and marsh land. Formerly its principal source of income arose from the immense flocks of wild-fowl fi'equenting it; the number said to have been taken is almost mcredible. At present, though the quantity caught is much smaller, yet^ by the judicious method of farming adopted by Mr. Blanshard, the value of the island has actually increased. It can be approached only while the tide is at the ebb, and many are the tales of " Will-o'-the-wisps," seen in that locahty, and leading the benighted traveller into sloughs and quagmires. It is a remarkable fact, that, notwithstanding its 94 A SEASON AT HARWICH. insulated position, Horsey is an extremely healthy lociility ; ague, and diseases of that kind, being- unlaiown to the inhabitants. Walton-on-the-Naze, situate on a cliff, next the sea, was at this time filled with visitors, attracted by the beauty of its situation for sea-bathing-. It derives its name, as the Doctor explained, li'om the promontory called " The Naze," which extends northward fi'om the town, a distance of three mdes, and is about a mile broad. This promontory is bounded on three sides by the sea, which continually makes destnictive inroads on the chffs. They contain many fossil i-emains,* and the sands being- hard and dry, the walk to the point is one of gTeat interest. The northern extremity of this is called " Walton Stone," and " Goldman's Gap," and on its banks the eringo, or sea-holly, and samphire gTOw abundantly. A brick tower, eighty feet high, built by the Corporation of the Trinity House, for the purpose of directing- vessels passing- by, or entermg- the harbour of Harwich, stands very conspicuous. The elevated site of tliis tower affords an expansive view of the ocean, and along- the coast to Harwich, Landguard Fort, Felix- stow, &c., and from its lofty summit the prospect seems to be bounded only by the power of vision. There was formerly a mar- tello tower on each side of the town, one, however, has been taken down, while the other is at present used as a coast-g-uard station. Walton formerly extended much further out to sea, and ruins have been discovered on the shoal called the " West Eocks," about seven miles from and bearing east of the shore. The ocean still g-ains on the land, though larg-e sums have been expended in erecting- sea- walls, breakwaters, &c., especially under an Act passed in the fourth and fifth of her present Majesty, for improving- the town and parish. About half an acre of land was washed away near the Terrace, during a high tide, on the 5th of April, 1848. A previous one, on December 17th, 1846, overflowed a wide extent of surface, and destroyed property, to the value of about two thousand pounds, belongmg to Mr. J. W. Hicks, an extensive farmer, residing- at Walton Hall. The terrace-wall was swept away in the summer of 1839, and the present built in the following year. Kent's Family Hotel, in the Crescent, erected in 1832, is a large and handsome * Researches B. CHAPTER VII. 95 building-, on tlie liig-liest part of the cli£F, about one hundred and fifty feet fi'om tbe beach, and that ])art in its front now forms an inchned plane extending- to the beach, where a substantial wooden jetty was erected by subscription, in 1830, at a cost of £1000. This pier extends three hundred and thirty feet into the sea, and its platform furnishes an agTeeable promenade, defended on either side by neat cast-iron rails, with numerous seats, and at the end a landing--place where the Ipswich and London steam packets call frequently during- the bathing- season. The Terrace, consisting- of six larg-e and eleg-ant houses, fi'onting- tlie sea, was built about ten years ag-o. The promenade and carriag-e-drive is eleven hundred and twenty feet in leng-th, from which is seen a wide extent of ocean. The beautifid sea beach has a fine smooth sand, affording- a dehg-htful walk, several miles in leng-th, and, from its sloping- shore, bathing machines can be used with safety in all times of the tide. To illustrate the extent of the ravag-es made by the sea on this coast, the Doctor mentioned, that in the year 1739, about eig-hty- nine acres of land were purchased for the aug-mentation of the rectory of the Holy Trinity, Colchester, and that already sixty- five acres of it had vanished. An estate, also, that formerly existed here, was carried away by the sea some centuries ag-o, which belonged to a prebendal stall, in St. Paul's Cathedral, still styled " Prehcnda consumpta per Tuare" The old parish church, decU- cated to All Saints, after long remaining- in ruins, was swept off in 1796, and the waves now advance several hundred feet beyond the place where it then stood. In 1804 a small church was erected, and afterwards rebuilt to meet the wants of the growing population. It is a plain red-brick building-, with a square tower, and affords accommodation to about six hundred persons. The afternoon being- already advanced, the Doctor proposed that they should return to Harwich by water. As the day was uncom- monly fine, and the sea scarcely ag-itated by a ripple, this was assented to w-ithout hesitation. The carriag-e was according-ly sent back, and the party embarked on boai-d one of the steamers which constantly call at the jetty, to take in passeng-ers for Harwich and Ipswich. In the first part of their short vovag-e, thev were 96 A SKASON AT IIAUWICH. delighted by tlic novelty of the scene, the number of vessels and small craft of all kinds which surrounded them, recalling- to remem- ]>rance their first view of Harwich harbour • but as they advanced on their way the young-er members of the party beg'an to feel effects inseparable, almost, from a first voyage ; and the anxious father, who had been watching the changes in his daughter's countenance, gave a glance at the Doctor, and was met with an expression which satisfied him all was right, and that it was nothing more than the usual symptoms of sea-sickness that had alarmed him. Indeed, as the Doctor explained on their return, there are few persons who do not feel qualmish on tliis particular part of the coast, from the effect of the meeting of three tides, producing a most disagreeable swell at a spot called the " Rolhng Ground," in the direct line of approach to the harbour. A few minutes afterwards, they entered the spacious haven of Harwich, and were enabled to laugh at the wo-begone countenances which each had presented to the other. A pleasant walk brought them to Dovercourt, where they found that the sea air had by no means deprived them of their appetites. Thus ended the excursion to Walton, w^hicli, tliough never more than six miles distant, had taken them a land trip of thirteen to reach. The evening was spent in agreeable conversation, and the party resolved to spend the next day in Harwich. 97 CHAPTER VIII. THE VISIT TO THE TOWN, AND SHOWING HOW THE BOROUGH OF HARWICH IS GOVERNED. HE next morning", whilst at breakfast, Dr. Bremmer informed Mr. Benson that Harwich first began to receive an importance fi-om the supposed decay of the town of Orwell, which is beheved to have been overwhelmed by the sea. Its site was on the West Rocks, seven miles south-east of the town, on which, some years ago, at very low tides, were to be seen ruins of building's. Edward III., through the influence of his brother, Thomas de Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk, when lord of the manor, made Harwich a borough corporate and market-town, by charter, in 1318. But it was a borough by prescription long before that period, and exercised its rights as such, as well as those derived from charters and letters patents which had been granted to it. Other charters were afterwards bestowed by Edward III., Richard II., Henry IV., Henry VI., Edward VI., and James I. ; the last was obtained through the intervention of Sir Edward Coke, and formed the basis of the municipal constitution previous to the passing' of the Reform Act of 1835. Subsequently to this all the corporate rights of the borough were twice confirmed by Charles II. By the act of 1835, the corporation consists of a mayor, four alder- men, and twelve councillors, with a Commission of the Peace, embracing, the mayor, ten magistrates, a to'vvn-clerk, high steward, and minor officers. " What," inquired Mr. Benson, " is the supposed income of the borough ? " " What the present income is, I do not know exactly," said the Doctor, "but in 1839 it was £621.. 16s.. 6d., chiefly ai-ising from land and buildings, market-tolls, and port-dues. The property comprises lands in Beaumont, Tendring, aud Thorpe. One fai'm L 98 A SEASON AT HARWICH. was purchased in 1715, and is let for about £150 per annum. Another, in the parish of Great Holland, finds a tenant at about £100 per annum, and various houses, stores, shops, and other tene- ments in the boroug-h, built at various periods on the waste, and now let for upwards of £100 per annum. The mayor and corporation (previous to the passing* of the Municipal Act, which abolished the jurisdiction) held Admiralty Sessions, and were usually preceded by a person bearing a silver oar, kept for that special occasion in the town chest. A Court of Record, for the recovery of debts not exceeding- £100, was also held here every Wednesday; but, from the costliness of the proceeding's, had almost fallen into disuse before the County Court came into opera- tion. Tliis latter is held monthly at the Guildhall, for theboroug'h, as well as for sixteen parishes, all in Tendring- hundred." " From what date, sir," asked Mr. Benson, " has Harwich returned members to parliament ? " "Prior to the reign of Edward III.," replied the Doctor, "when the privilege was suspended ; but restored by charter of James I. The right of voting, pi'evious to the passing of the Parliamentary Reform Act, in 1832, was in the mayor, aldermen and capital bur- gesses ; and the greatest number of electors polled at one election, within thirty years, previous to 1831, was twenty. In 1837, the number of registered voters was 157, of whom twelve were freemen. Formerly the members who were to represent the borough in Par- liament, did so at the cost and charge of the mayor and burgesses so long as parliament was sitting. In the pension-list of King Charles IT., it appears that one Thomas King, Esq., M.P., for Harwich, elected in 1061, and succeeded by Samuel Pepj^s, Esq., in 1G78, received a pension, or rather a salary of £50 a session, besides meat, drink, and now and then a suit of clothes. I could furnish you," added the Doctor, "with some very interesting information, showing the manner of electing a member of parlia- ment in times past ; but of this hereafter.* I shall conclude this part of my sidjject by here merely observing when the present members were elected : viz., Mr. Bagshaw, in 1847, and Sir John Cam Hobhouse, Bart., in 1848. The latter gentleman was returned * Researches A. CHAPTER VIII. yjl to succeed Mr. Attwood, who lost his seat hy a decision of a com- mittee of the House of Commons, in March, 1848." Perceiving that the ladies were prepared for their walk, the Doctor and Mr. Benson led the way past Holly Lodg-e, along the south bank of the Stour. Parallel with the bank runs a long mound of earth, known as the sea-wall, which might formerly have been raised for the purpose of defence, as well as to preserve the river within its proper limits. Passing several cement kilns, they shortly arrived at the edifice dedicated to St. Nicholas, The present build- ing occupies the site of the ancient church, or rather chapel of ease, having been so to the mother church of Dovercourt, as before shown. The old building, being in a dilapidated condition, was pulled down in 1821, and the present erected, at a cost of nearl}^ £20,000. It is built of Suffolk brick, with stone dressings, in imitation of the perpendicular style of architecture, but by no means to be compared with the structures of that date. It consists of a tower and spire with eight bells, a nave, aisles and chancel, and is conveniently built and calculated to accommodate 1,500 persons. There are a thousand seats that are free for ever, the Trustees having received a grant irom the Society for Promoting the Enlargement of Churches for its erection. The voluntary subscriptions proving insufficient for the purpose, an act was obtained in the second year of George IV., 1821, and another in 1824, to empower trustees to levy a rate upon the inhabitants. There are three brilHant glass windows, presented by John Hopkins, Esq., and containing, severally, the arms of that gentleman, those of the town, and of Dr. Howley, Bishop of Lon- don. It was then in that prelate's see, but is now in that o. Rochester. Dr. Bremmer said, "I well remember the old church, the existence of which I treasure in my memory, and regi'et its absence as one would the loss of a friend of his youth." Mr. Benson, perceiving his friend's bias, begged to be favoured with a description of the old building. " It presented always," said the Doctor, " to me, a quaint ])i(^ turesqueness that I have seldom observed in any other of its kind. " Was it as spacious as the present ? " inquired Walter. " By no means," replied Dr. Bremmer. " It consisted of a nav-^ 100 A SEASON AT HARWICH. about sixty feet in leng-th, with side aisles, a chancel, and a quad- rang-ular stone tower, surmounted by a framed wooden octagonal turret. In the latter were six bells, a clock, and a set of chimes; these last had ceased playing some years before its final destruction. The whole of the roofs were covered with lead. CEDECH OF SAINT NICHOLAS, HAEWICH, PRIOR TO 18^1. It was repaired and beautified, by subscription, in 1775; the Right Honourable Lord North, recorder for the borough, and First Lord of the Treasury, subscribed £50; the Honourable Augustus George North, eldest son of Lord North, and John Robinson, Esq., one of the then members for the borough, g'ave, each, an additional £50. The latter gentleman also subscribed £100 towards providing a g-ood clock; but the inhabitants, having; already raised a sufficient sum to purchase one, invested the CHAPTER VIII. 101 amount in tlie funds, applying* the interest to keep it in repair. The Rev. Thomas Gibson, vicar of Ramsey and Dovercourt g-ave .£10 for the same object. The monuments, which were rather numerous than otherwise, have most of them been removed to the present church." Dr. Bremmer pointed out one, sacred to the memoiy of Sir Wilham Clarke, who died fig-hting for his country against the Dutch, in 1666.* The epitaph, which is in latin, was thus translated by Dr. Bremmer, for the benefit of the ladies. " ' Here lies Sir Wilham Clarke, Knight, and secretary-at-war to the most serene King", Charles II., and secretary to the most noble George, Duke of Albemarle, whose fortunes he followed throug-h all emerg-encies, for more than twelve years; and whose efforts in restoring our monarchy and laws, he strenuously assisted. In the famous sea- fig-ht with the Dutch fleet, in the beginning- of June, 1666, which continued for four successive days, as he fought by the admiral's side, on the second day he lost his right leg by a cannon-ball, on the foui'th his hfe. Yet, notwithstanding his wound, he would not suffer himself to be removed from the danger of the battle, but whilst the rest of the wounded were carried on shore, he remained in the ship, which was shattered and exposed to the fire of the enemy, and with surprising constancy awaited the doubtful issue of the battle and his own hfe. His wounded body, having for several days been tossed on the sea, was at length cast into this haven, whilst his soul retired to its native heaven. Stay, reader, a moment, you do not yet know the character of this great man. who, having long executed the greatest pubhc employments, had always the happiness of the public approbation ; who, thougli he attained to riches and honours, yet escaped infomy and envy, not by artifice, but the force of his integrity ; and, in short, was a shining instance that innocence does not always forbid a man to engage in the affairs of a court. You have here the remains of a gentleman of integrity, honour, knowledge, abilities, and apphcation ; who sur- mounted labours, and suppressed avarice ; who neither defi'auded the rich, nor neglected the poor ; and who observed sincerity in word and action. His life was crowned with integrity ; his death with * Researches A. 102 A SEASON AT HARWICH. fortitude; and in both he was equally happy. The period of his hfe was but forty-three years ; yet, even in that short space, were exerted all the virtues and graces of life. He left a sorrowful widow, and a son five years old — a moderate estate — an excellent character, and a deep regTet for the loss of him. His sorrowing widow raised tliis monument, in order to do justice to his memory, and to alleviate, in some measure, her own sorrow.' Dr. Samuel Clarke," added the Doctor, " left ,£5 per annum to keep his father's. Sir William Clarke's, monument, in the chancel, clean and in g-ood repair. Amongst other monuments to the departed are to be met with those inscribed to the memory of Saunders, Deane, Runnacles, Cox, Graham, Bridg-e, and others; the descendants of whom are still, or have been untd lately, residents in the town." Mr. Benson, pondering- on these records of the past, remarked how many had served under the crown in various capacities, and as members of the body corporate. Joseph Graham, Esq., died whilst occupying the ofl&ce of chief magistrate. "The eulogy on that slate," said he, pointing to another to the memory of John Hop- kins, Esq., " is assuredly very complimentary to the deceased. ' He died in 1828, having fiUed the office of mayor, in this town, no less than sixteen times.' " One to Sir Joseph Knight, rear-admiral of the white, attracted theu' attention, as did also a neat tablet to the memory of Lieut.- Colonel Graham Donaldson, of the 1st Foot Guards, erected by his brother officers, as a testimony of esteem for their gallant comrade. He died in 1809, on his return fi-om the fatal expedition to the Scheldt; on another monument they read that Captain Philip Deane, having been unfortunately captured by an enemy, when in command of the packet, King George, at Helvoetsluys, in 1803, was marched a prisoner to Verdun ; and, after languishing in captivity for four years, died in 1807. The Doctor remarked, that he coidd point out the last resting- place of Silas Taylor, exactly, in the old church, but not so accurately in the present, as no stone marked the spot. It was between the north wall of the chancel and a monument erected to one Mr. Coleman. Silas Domville, alias Taylor, was the author of an excellent manuscript history of Harwich, which was aiTanged CHAPTER VIII. 103 and published, with copious notes and appendix, more than half a century after his death, by that able antiquary and botanist, Samuel Dale, in or about the year 1730. In reply to a question to that effect, the Doctor said that Taylor died on the 4th of November, 1678. " As usual in maritime places," observed the Doctor, " the tablets on these walls record many distressing- instances of casualties at sea. One tells this sad story : — ' To the memory of Captain Wm. Hewett, and of the officers and crew of Her Majesty's ship Fairy, who all perished off Southwold, in the storm of the 13th of November, 1840, while engaged in the survey of the North Sea : this tablet is erected by the officers and crew of Her Majesty's ship Shearwater, commanded by Captain Washing- ton, R.N., appointed to complete that survey in 1841.' Another instance of the feeling of the officers and crew of the Shearwater, is recorded on a tablet to the memory of Mr. Thomas Carrol, surgeon, and five seamen of their ship, who were drowned by the upsetting of a boat in the river Medway, in 1842." "Every one who reads the monumental inscriptions in tliis church," said the Doctor, " must be struck with the often-repeated, but in other localities unusual chi'istain name of Anthony, as connected with families whose vu-tues and acquirements, as well as standing in the borough, they record. It is to be accounted for, we are told, by the very celebrated progenitor of the Deane family having that cognomen. Certain it is, that the old books furnish no instance of the name of Anthony before the period of that eminent man, who not only filled the most important offices in tlie corporation, but was twice returned to parliament for the borough. Long as tliis family has flourished, it has at last come to be represented in the male line by a gentleman of high standing in the place. Through an imfortunate event, to which families are but too subject, a ])lain modest black marble slab records, that Lieutenant Anthony Deane, a most promising young man, being enamoured of a military life, lost it in the pursuit of his gallant profession, in the insalubrious Island of Celyon. " Sic transit f AT HARWICH. A visitor to Havwicli on a Sunday would be forcibly reminded of a cathedral town, or considerable city, as on that morning may be seen the worshipful the mayor, and his predecessor, in their robes of state, accompanied by the mace-bearer and other officers of the corporation, in their ancient liveries, with hats of most formal cut, marching' up the principal street to attend divine worsliip. On arriving- at the church, the great western door is thrown open, when the finely-toned organ strikes up a voluntary, and the procession advances up the centre of the nave to the elevated pew, ap- propriated to these dignitaries, a short distance to the westward of the reading-desk j when the mace-bearer, having placed the gilded emblem of his office just in front of his worship, to ren- der the scene, if possible, more imposing by contrast, he retires to a more humble pew, and the service commences. A portrait of the present bearer of the symbol of mayor- alty is here given ; and so apt has long usage made this good man, that it would be difficult to find one to perform his duties with equal solemnity or decorum. Leaving the church by the south door, they paused in the grave- yard, to look at the monuments aroimd. " It occurs to my memory," said the Doctor, " that, in taking down the old building, there was discovered, imbedded in one of the walls, a small piece of Roman sculpture, representing a male and a female figure, in bas-relief, with a tragic mask between them, and probably intended originally as the monument of some one connected with the stage. It is of statuary marble, and the figures are in height about fifteen inches. How it came into its strange hidmg-place — whether it had been dug up, and SEEGEANT-AT-MACE. CHAPTER VIII. 105 was the remains of some of the works of the Romans ; or whether it had been broug-ht by some seafaring- man fi'om a foreig-n coimtry — is a question which may afford ground for curious speculation to the antiquarian. Tliis rehc was presented by the late Mrs. Bailey, the widow of Dr. Bailey, of Harwich, to the Rev. J. H. Marsden, who has it still in his possession. EOMAN SCULPTURE FROM THE OLD CHURCH. In reply to a question fi-om Mr. Benson, the Doctor said, that the church lands, for repairs, &c., consisted of a farm of fifty-two acres, at Tendring-, now let for £80 per annum, boug-ht in 1720, for £241. The purchase-money had been derived chiefly fi'om the sale of a house at the Town Gate, left by Wm. King-, in 1627, and taken down in 1714, by the commissioners for fortifying- the town. " Have you many Dissenters here ? " inquired Miss Archer. "Yes," replied Dr. Bi-emmer; "a considerable number. The Independents, existing- since the seventeenth century, have a chapel, with a larg-e congTeg-ation, upwards of fifty A'ears under the ministry of the late Rev. W. Ilordle, who was much esteemed by all who had the happiness to know him. There is another for the Wesleyans, and one for the Baptists, with a school attached to each." " What say you, my friends," proposed Mr. Benson, " if we adjourn to some convenient hostelrie, to satisfy those healthful craving-s which, I should think, by this time, in a greater or less degree, are assailing us all / " "Agreed," replied the Doctor j "and as there is an hotel in our M JUO A SEASON AT HARWICH. immediate neig-hbourhood, of winch I intended giving- you an account, I propose we pay a visit to tliis establishment, called the ' Three Cups,' kept by Mrs. Bull, where we shall meet with every attention, and all thing-s in as much readiness as if we had been expected." They accordingly repaired to a room in that well- conducted house. The Doctor remarked, over their luncheon, that to those who visited Harwich, either for pleasure or business, a few years ago, the recollection of the comfortable and home-like reception at this hotel, and its worthy host, the late Mr. William Bull, would not be easily effaced. Who can forget the appearance of the good man, when, with dish in hand, he marched up his spacious room to the head of the table, inviting his guests to a repast made doubly welcome by the attentions personally rendered by himself. Then, again, the acts of benevolence and kindness related of him ! Wliei-e was the man, who, landing from a foreign country, driven, perhaps, from a continental home by the hard conditions of war, but received at his hand the ready assistance his necessities demanded ? "I am, myself," continued the worthy Doctor, " perfectly cognizant of facts of this benevolent kind ; and it has been said, that so tenacious were the recipients of this good man's assistance, that but few instances can be adduced of his not obtaining repayment of his bountiful advances. Mr. Bull was a fine specimen of a man of half a century ago ; his dress was of the period — the powdered head and tie gave a character to liis appearance, which continued to the day of his lamented death. So proverbial was his good humour, that on the occasion of a party of coiintry gentlemen assembling at a periodical dinner, a wager was laid that no person could put our worthy host out of temper : one was found with temerity enough to accept the challenge, and a day was fixed for the trial. A dinner being ordered for the party, the adventurous hero took his place at the head of the table, when ' enter mine host,' with a tureen of mock-turtle soup, for which the house was, and still is, noted. " ' Do you call this so2(p, Mr. Bull?' inquires the chairman. ' To my taste, it is mere wash, made from unwholesome meat. Take it away, sir, and bring in the fish.' " ' Very sorry, indeed,' says our host, with astonishment forcibly CHAPTER VIII. 107 depicted on his countenance, ' that the soup does not please ; there must be some mistake about it, as Mrs. Bull has always been famed for the quality of her mock-turtle, and it was placed on the table in the full assurance of its giving- the same satisfaction as a like quantity has done to a party in another room.' "Away goes soup, and enter fish — soles, declared to have been alive within a few hours. Not so, thought the complaining chair- man ; he j^ronoimced them to have been dead at least a week ; to all which, the meek host expressed his gTief, and only attempted to parry the complaint by recommending a dish of stewed eels, for which, he said, the "Three Cups" was celebrated. To tliis it was of course repHed, that a house which could serve up bad soup and stale soles, was not likely to supply a palatable dish of stewed eels. The mutton was complained of, as being from an old ewe, and sent off the table accordingly; as was the poultry, certified to have laid innumerable eggs, and to have reared up many a brood ; the vegetables stale, and not eatable ; while the port — that famous port which the nobles of our own land, and even foreign princes, had pronounced to be of the most choice quality — was declared by the chairman to be mere sloe-juice and water. ' In short, Mr. Bull,' said the captious gentleman, 'since the company can get nothing either to eat or to drink at your hotel, send in the bill, that we may retire to another, to seek that accommodation denied us at the " Cups." ' " Here the good host appeared to falter ; but soon recovering his equanimity, with that blandness and good humour which, however trying the occasion, never forsook him, at once rephed by expressing his sincere sorrow that he had not given that satisfaction which he was so solicitous to do ; adding, he coidd on no account accept a remuneration under such cu-cumstances ; but if the party would, on any day to be named, again condescend to \asit his hotel, he would, by the most unremitting attention and care, endeavour to make up for a disappointment, which he was then unable to account for. The scene was in an instant changed; the secret of the wager divulged ; all the party shook the hand of the worthy man ; and what w-as a short time ago declared to be execrable trash, was now pronounced to be the perfection of the culinary art. Need it be added, that a bumper was filled to the liealth of one who had passed 108 A SEASON AT HARWICH. tlii'oug-h, witli credit to himself, an ordeal at once trying and distressing- ? Mr. Bull belong-ed to the corporation of his day ; and those who survive of that body, will not be offended at the remark, that to enjoy the g'ood thing's, of which he was so excellent a caterer, was not the least of the inducements which made an entrance into that assembly enviable. Indeed, at this period, so gTeat was the celebrity of the hotel, that no less than two men cooks were maintained on its establishment — a gTeat consideration in those days. This excellent man has been for some years g-athered to lois Withers, as his tomb in Harwich church-yard shows ; but his amiable widow, taug'ht by his example, still remains to afford to the traveller, those attentions and civilities for which her house has been so long- renowned." Dr. Bremmer now proposed, in continuation of their round of visits in the old town, that they should inspect the Guildhall ; and, according-ly, they crossed the street to a red-brick building' which Walter said was in the style that prevailed in the time of James I. The wings of the building' formed two bays, that continued from the g-round to the top, and then terminated over the roof with an attic story. The entrance in the centre is half Gothic, half Italian, making- a nondescript style by this odd mixture. Over the door is an inscription, showing' the date of its erection, and stating' that the edifice was rebuilt, at the expense of the corporation, in the year 1769, in the eleventh mayoralty of Griffith Davis. The Doctor observed, that the lower part of the building- was used as a police- station and prison for the boroug-h, chiefly for the retention of prisoners previous to their removal to the county g-aol. The upper part is appropriated to the holding- of the courts, and transactmg- of other public business ; and on the stor^^ above this, ag-ain, resides the superintendent of police. The walls of the court-rooms are adorned with several finely-executed portraits. One of Charles II, ; also one of the present Lord Bexley, who, xmder his f:\mily name of Vansittart, represented the boroug'h in several parliaments, filling' also the office of hig'h steward. The likeness is admitted by all to be an admirable one ; he is represented, by the artist, in his robes of Chancellor of the Exchequer. Another, that the Doctor du*ected tlieir notice to, was of John Hopkins, Esq., the same gentleman CHAPTER viir. 109 wliose arms are emblazoned in the stained-giass window in the chancel of the church. The Doctor, whose love for every thing* connected with antiqiiarian research has constantly appeared in tliese pag-es, could not refrain from observing, that the first town or guild-hall originally was included in the precincts of the castle, though, from lack of early information, much of what we know of this buikUng rests upon conjecture ; but, after it had become a ruin, the Guildhall was removed to St. Austin's Gate, where it remained till the year 1073. At this time, it appears, the question of a new Guildhall being- agitated in the councd, throug'h the influence and bounty of Anthony Deane, afterwards Sir Anthony Deane, Knig-ht, and one of the aldermen, they were induced to sell theu* old hall, and some of their houses, and purchased a better in St. Nicholas, or what is now known as Church Street, where, as Silas Taylor observes, ' they have not only their jail and house of correction, but also a neat, though small Guildhall, adorned with pillars, I'ails, balusters, &c.' In this old hall were several leathern buckets, bearing- the arms and names of members of the corporation ; amongst which were those of Sir Edward Coke, Attorney-General in the time of James I. ; General Monk, aftei'wards Duke of Albemarle ; Colonel Sir Charles Lyttleton, Governor of Landgiiard Fort, in the reigTi of Charles II. ; Sir Harbottle Grimstone, Master of the Robes in the same reign ; the Duke of Schomberg-, Lord Bolingbroke, Edward^ Earl of Oxford, and many other very distinguished men." " How very extraordinary that such men should register then* arms and names upon leathern buckets ! " remarked Elizabeth. " What could have been their motive ? " " It was a custom here, formerly, to exact a bucket from each of the common councilmen," explained the Doctor, " who were admitted to the distinguished honour of being- enrolled among-st that body ; and some of them, in the ecstasy of successftd election, presented as many as ten ; and this practice continued until the stock became overwhelming', when the custom was abandoned, and a sum of money, equivalent to the value of a bucket, substituted." "This, then," inquired Elizabeth, "is the building- that Sir Anthony Doane, induced the corporation to purcha.se .'' " 110 A SEASON AT HARWICH. " Not so," replied Dr. Bremmer ; " but it stood on tliis site. This present structure, as I have before stated, was erected nearly a hundred years after the period when Sir Anthony first mooted the subject of removing- from the old building', by St. Austin's Gate, to this site." On leaving the Town Hall, and passing down the street in the direction of the Quay, our party observed what, in our day, con- stitutes tliree houses, each with its g-able, and with richly-ornamented fronts, and curiously wrought, but which formerly must have been one mansion. The lower portion of tliis having- been materially altered, the ground-floor is at present divided into three shops. ANCIENT norsss i:.- cnuBCH street. " These old houses," observed the Doctor, " notwithstanding the year ' 1G71 ' inscribed in fi'ont, are probably at least a century older, and were possibly spared to commemorate the visit that Queen Elizabeth paid the place ; and these again, might be the remains of some sumptuous mansion that existed in her day. To give more weight to this view, I may add that some years ago, three other ancient houses stood on the opposite side, and very likely, with these, formed a part of a large quadrangular structure, where the burgesses of those days may have fittingly entertained her." Passmg these interesting- relics of ancient domestic architecture. CHAPTER VIII. Ill the party slioz'tly arrived at the Custom House, a small building- facing the harbour. For the information of his friends the Doctor observed, "its jurisdiction extends up the Stour to the subordinate port of Mistley, and along- the coast to Walton and Thorpe-le-Soken. The rig-ht of jurisdiction on the waters of the Orwell has long- been a source of dispute between the authorities of Harwich and Ipswich. If this disagreement could be settled, it would confer a great benefit on both places. The claim of the latter is founded upon a charter of King Henry VIII., granted, as it was then sup- posed, '■ to remove ail doubt and ambiguity ; ' but this faiUng, a commission was instituted in the year 1G93, for the same purpose, which, after declaring Harwich to be a member port with that of Ipswich, makes the following- return of its boundary : — ' We do hereby declare and appoint the extents, boimds, and limits of Har- wich, the said member port, to be fi'om the point of land or sand, called "the Platters," on the north-east side of Landguard Fort, south-eastward into the sea, to the inside or west side of the sand called " the Cork," and returned, and continued in a supposed right line to the promontory, or point of land, called " the Naze," on the coast of Essex, and fi'om the oiitward bounds to extend inwards by the coasts on both sides by the town of Harwich, through the river up to Manningtree town, and through the river towards Ips^vich, to the north side of the entrance into Levington Creek, in the parish of Levington, in the county of Suffolk, and in a supposed direct line to a creek or hole on the opposite shore, commonly called " Till's Hole," in the parish of Shotley, including all creeks, waters, rivers, bays, and places, within the bounds and hmits aforesaid, and no further.'" " In this doubtful state of things, with an undefined jurisdiction, who," inquired Mr. Benson, " collect the dues, and by whom are transgressors prosecuted ? " " The Ipswich people," rephed Dr. Bremmer, " being more alive to their own interests than the good folks of Harwich, sometimes, I fear, take advantage of our supine habits ; for, in a return made in a parliamentary report, out of thirtj'-six prosecutions for ofiences committed in this port, only three convictions took place here in eight years, wliilst twenty-two were carried to Ipswich. With 112 A SEASON AT HARWICH. respect to tlicir dues, tlie water-bailiff from this latter place, con- siders liis limits to be within a hne from Shotley Gate across to the Breakwater, and levies dues, upon all Eng-hsh vessels lying' to the north, of eig'htpence each, and one shilHng- and fourpence upon those of foreigners ; one shilhng for g'roundag-e is also charged." " And I suppose," interrupted Mr. Benson, " another exaction for discharging- ballast .'' " '^ No," answered the Doctor ; " this they admit they have no power over ; and, no enactment at present existing to prevent the practice of discharging ballast, the harbour has consequently suffered great detriment ; but, I trust," continued Dr. Bremmer, " before long to see a new spirit infrised into our town's-people, and an inclination to demand their legitimate rights over one of the finest harbours of which our countr}^ can boast." Mr. Benson expressed himself highly dehghted with the vast extent and beauty of the harbour ; made doubly interesting by the great number of vessels of all nations riding securely at anchor, as also little fleets of Dogger-Bank fishing and dredging boats. " Tliis harbour," said he, "seems capable of holding several hundred vessels, without being crowded in the slightest degree." " Your conjecture is quite correct," replied Dr. Bremmer. "About the time of the first Dutch war, in the reign of Charles II., as many as a Imndred sail of men-of-war anchored here, with their tenders, besides between three and four hundred coUiers, and would, in all weathers, contain five times that nmnber ; for it is, in fact, a continuous harbour, for upwards of two miles ; and for a very con- siderable distance up the Stour, ships of the largest burden can anchor in a sufficient depth of water, at all tides, secure fi'om all winds." The Doctor, growing warm with his subject, expatiated upon the beautiful rivers, "winding, in their ghttering course, between banks em-iched with luxuriant woods and plantations. Then again many noble mansions, the comfortable and substantial homesteads, the fishermen's cottages, in fact every nook teems with sidjject for the painter and incidents the most interesting; but," cried the Doctor, checking himself, " I am anticipating my pur- pose ; we shall, I trust, visit these scenes, and enjoy them more leisurelv." CHAPTER Vlir. 113 Mr. Benson acknowledg-ed that wliat he had witnessed had kindled a feehng- in his hreast similar to that of his friend. During- tlie foreg'oing" conversation, the yonng-er members of the party had found their way to the Royal Naval Yard, whither the g'ood Doctor and his friend repaired, and were delighted to find them, in their eag-erness for information, making- inquiries relative to the economy of ship-building-. The first object of interest to which the Doctor directed his friends' attention, was an ancient crane, worked by men in two large ch-ums, with steps witliin, after the manner of a tread-wheel. Tliis contrivance produced a rotatory motion, which causing- the rope to wind I'ound the outer baiTel, hoisted goods from the vessel's hold to the quay alongside, similar to the one at Carisbrook Castle. " This iinique machine," said the Doctor, " has been in existence since the time of Queen Elizabeth, and is probably one of the oldest specimens of the kind now in the kingdom. There is, as you manifestly perceive, a marked difference between this and the two recently erected by our worthy member, and which serve to note the progTess made in this department of mechanics. The large one is housed in the earth, to the depth of at least twelve feet, and will raise an enormous weight with but comparatively a smaU amount of labom-." The next object was the patent slip, on wliich, at the time our party w^ere inspecting its ingenious appliances, a bark of five himdred tons burthen, an American emigrant vessel, bound from Bremen to New York, had been haiiled for repairs. "How long, Dr. Bremmer," inquired Mr. Benson, "has this remarkable piece of mechanism been invented ? " " It was first put in operation in the spring of the year 1826. Tlie method of working it is as follows : — these thi-ee parallel tram-waA's are fixed on chairs secured to sleepers firmly bedded in the earth. Vessels are wedged on small carriages that run upon these tram-wa^'s and hauled up by means of a chain made on the principle of those in a watch, and which is wound round the barrel of a windlass by bars inserted in a capstan. The centre rail, you perceive, has teeth for a wedge, used to prevent retrogi-essiou.'' " What ! is this great hulk drawn up by hmuan power ^ " asked Mr. Benson. 114 A SEASON AT HARWICH. "Yes/' replied the Doctor, "but their hiboiir is considerably diminished by a judicious combination of cog-wheels, enabling" thirty men to haul up a vessel of this burthen, at a rate of fi-om two to three feet per minute ; and if accommodation for a second vessel, or even a tliird, should be required, by a most sin^ple con- trivance the carriages can be released from their burthen and passed behind for that purpose. It is a lamentable fact," proceeded the Doctor, " that the ingenious patentee, a ship-builder at Leith, is but one of the long list of ill-requited benefactors to their fellows, for half the term of his patent had expired before parties were awakened to a sense of the great advantages of his invention over the clumsy methods then in almost universal iTse." From one subject they passed to another ; till they had already traversed the large and various store-houses, the smithies, work-shops, and, indeed, the greater part of the very spacious premises, when they were invited, by a friend of the Doctor, to rest themselves in a arge, handsome brick dwelling on the premises ; and whilst here, Dr. Bremmer was solicited to give some account of the history of the Royal Naval Yard, which request he very graciously acceded to, in the following manner : — " Long before Queen Elizabeth's time, this grand establishment was in existence. It was founded on the site of an ancient bulwark, mounted with guns for the purpose of defending this part of the town, that had previously passed by the appellation of Harwich Ness, near the spot where formerly stood the Castle, and in front of what had been the palace of the Earls of Norfolk. Even at this da}^, there are to be seen the remains of an old house, which we shall j)ass on our return, built in a reign prior to that of Elizabeth, on the site, and perhaps with the materials of the former ancient building Remains of subterraneous vaulting, and exceedingly massive walls, extending over a considerable area, still exist j but I am leaping the boundary of the ship-yard, our present subject, and will, therefore, confine myself for the pre- sent to this topic, and some evening commimicate to you the antiquities, &c., of the whole of our town. Tliis Ness, or Nose of land, as its name imports, was most probably first converted into a ship-yard b}"- Queen Eleanor, (the consort of Edward II.), who CHAPTER VIII. llo fortified the town, when rebelhng- against her husband, in 1320. It was at this time that Harwich first rose into importance, and became conspicuous in history. In the reig-n of Queen Elizabeth, the place had made considerable advances. During the Dutch war, in the latter reig"n, as many as four master-superintendents were required for the business of the Yard and Port, and in the ensuing century, during- the Dutch war of 1666, 1667, many ship- wrights, caulkers, and other workmen, for the different branches of ship-building-, were employed here, and kept in constant pay, not only for building ships, but also to be alwaj^s ready to refit those of the king's ships that had become in any manner disabled ; and for the g-reater dispatch, there was a hulk for the unburthening- them of their artillery and stores, preparatory to cleaning-, and for the better convenience of repau-ing- any domag-e they mig'ht have received, to careen or lay them up in ordinary." "The ship-building- department, then," said Mr. Benson, "was not at this time in the hands of private individuals as it is now ? " " Certainly not ; " said the Doctor. " At that time, several officers were appointed by the king- to superintend the works ; as, for instance, a commissioner of the port, a keeper of the stores, master builder, a clerk of the cheque, a master of attendance, a clerk of the survey, a boatswain of the 3'ard, and a porter of the g-ate. We find, by a parliamentary paper, that on the 2Sth April, 1690, the Lords of the Admiralty agreed to increase the clerk of the cheque's salary at Harwich to £60 per anniim, upon the Xavy Board's report of its reasonableness. The chief of these had their residence in the yard, with then- several offices. In 1667, I find the office of storekeeper was filled by the celebrated Captain Silas Taylor (otherwise Domville), who afterwai'ds did important service to the state, and was employed, not only in his sovereign's affairs, more especially those appertaining to the Royal TS'"avy, but was also made ag-ent, by the Board of Ordnance, for the jn-izes brought into this port. He also had charge of such seamen as were from time to time sent by the neig-libouring- counties to the king-'s navy, with several other important trusts. In the yeai' 1672 he received the royal command to form a company here for the better security and defences of the town and fort." IIG A SEASON AT HARWICH. " Have any larg-e sliips been built here ? " inquired Elizabeth, " Yes, a gTeat number ; " replied Dr. Bremmer. " That excellent man, and most ing-enious artist, Sir Anthony Deane, one of the commissioners of His Majesty's Navy, built several, and if you feel sufficiently interested in this subject, you and Walter can examine the list of all the vessels, amongst which are several of considerable size, built here, in the period commencing- fi-om the year 1665 up to the present time. This list you will find in my hbrary, by reference to its catalog'ue,* and with it a very interesting' journal of the pro- ceeding- of Phineas Pett, (afterwards Sir Phineas Pett, commissioner of Chatham in 1686,) with Sir Anthony Deane, Knight, in search of timber for the Ro3"al Dockj'-ard, in the year 1677. Ship- building-, &c., continued to be in the hands of g-overnment for many years, during- which period Harwich must have been at the height of its prosperity ; but when the government opened their estabhsh- ment at Sheerness, this fine yard was let to private individuals. Messrs. Barnard and Turner built, between the years 1756 and 1782, eig-hteen vessels, averag-ing- from ten to seventy-four g-uns. Mr. Barnard was g-randfather to that excellent gentleman, who, following- the footsteps of his worthy progenitor, added g-reatly to his wealth by a useful career of ship-building- at Deptford ; on his retirement, and the passing of the Reform Bill, his fellow-townsmen in that, as well as in the sister-towns of Greenwich and Wool- wich, to their o^\n honour, elected him their representative in parliament, in v/hich high position he has since remained. A gentle- man," continued the Doctor, " whom I h-ave the honour of number- ing- amongst my most intimate friends, meeting- lately with Mr. Barnard, now in his seventy-sixth year, or thereabouts, the latter gentleman communicated to my esteemed friend the following- anec- dote : — ' On the arrival of the Princess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, afterwards consort of George III., from Germany, she was handed from the boat to the landing-stairs, by his g-randfather, Mr. Barnard, then the government tenant of the Royal Naval Yard. An artist of considerable eminence was engaged to execute a painting to per- petuate this interesting scene ; and the picture is now in the collection of the present Mr, Barnard, at his seat, Gosfield Hall, in this * Researches V. Ml : > :z CHAPTER VIII. 117 county. The g-ovemment of that day feehng something- was due to their tenant to commemorate the event, offered to create him a baronet ; hut having* an alternative g-iven him, the worthy builder preferred receiving' an order to build a seventy-four gam ship, a commission he accordingly executed ; and this vessel subsequently was famous in our naval annals, under the name of the Terrible.^ The Yard was afterwards possessed b)^ two g-enerations of the respectable name of Graham, who, during their tenancy, sustained the reputation of the place, by building- several govern- ment vessels, seventy-fours and others, in so creditable a manner, that the best informed in the science of naval architectiu-e could not but approve of their designs. Merchantmen and steamers were also constructed by them in the same efficient manner. Some of these were built for the packet ser\ice, and on a recent examination of several, they were found to be, as to their timbers, as perfect as when first launched j additional proof, if proof were necessary, of the soundness and good quahty of the oak procured in this vicinity. The property, as I have before intimated, is now leased to John Bagshaw, Esq., M.P, for the borough, who has recently let it to John Vaux, Esq., late of Southampton." After a short interval, Mr. Benson said, " How long. Dr. Brem- mer, had this port been a packet-station ? " " The earliest account I have seen of it," replied the Doctor, " is in Silas Taylor's History of Harwich; there being in his time three packet-boats employed, which started every Wednesday and Saturday to carry over the public mails, with foreig-n letters and passengers, to and fi-om Holland, the whole of Germany, and the northern and central parts of the continent generally. The passage was short, and the accommodation good ; moreover, the former was oftentimes hastened by two contrar}- tides that the vessel encountered in her voyage. In Dale's time they had inci-eased to four vessels, and afterwards to five, one of which, named the Disjmteh, had the honour of bringing over Frederick, Prince of "Wales, fiither to George III. On account of this intercourse with the continent, Hai'vdch became a bustling- place, and the inhabitants derived con- siderable profit from the number of travellers that stopped on theii" way to and from the continent. This route was \is(m1 for a lengthened 118 A SEASON AT HARWICH. period, even till tlie introduction of steam-vessels. Then, although saiUng from the port of London caused the journey to be lengthened, and left the danger of the Swin sands still to be encountered, that route was adopted in preference to embarking- here. And our over- land conveyance is, at best, but incomplete even at this time. Yet that very power, namely steam, now that it is appHed to land con- veyance is likely again to restore us to our former prosperity, nay, exceeding it ; we only require ten miles and a half of rail to complete this object, and this, when done, will make Harwich the port for the mail-packets and passengers to the before-mentioned countries. For, during the summer months, travellers, who are desirous of visiting the continent, may leave London at six a. m., arrive at Harwicli at nine o'clock to breakfast, embark, and land at Rotterdam before night-fall." It had struck five when the Doctor, with his friends, left tliis agreeable residence, by the front door, opening* into King's Quay Street, and on their way home, they came to the remains of the REMAINS OF THE PALACE* ancient palace of the De Brothertons. The Idtchen was lined with * That part of the house here shown has been i^ulled down and the materials dispersed since this was written. CHAPTER VIII. 119 very rich and characteristic oak-carving- of the period, in an excellent state of preservation, and evidenced much gi*eater extent than the limits of the present house, or two houses, more properly speaking-. Walter ascended to the roof by means of a ladder, and found it to be constructed with massive oak, extending- considerably beyond what appeared to Ije the present dwelhng-, and conveying an idea as if it actually sheltered several houses in the adjoining street. After searcliing- in vain for a date, he descended to explore the cellars, and there discovered portions of the massive old walls and the remains of a g-othic arch, constructed with septaria, entirely built up with rubble stones. The current report g'oes, that the vaults and cellars extended as far as Barton's Gate ; and the many extensive walls that have been discovered, in dig-g-ing- for the foundations of houses near to it, show that the original building must have been of great extent. But in most parts of the town excavators find rubbish and fragments of walls, of very great strength and sohdity, most probably the remains of Roman buildings ; for those generally discovered are built of the same material, and are similar in work- manship to the Castle at Colchester. Walter observed, that the Romans never failed to make the most of what the neighbourhood afforded, and in which they executed their enduring works. " If," said he, " they had had the facihties of carriage, and the variety and abimdance you, sir, seem to enjoy here, what noble and costly structures might they not have left behind them!" "I fxdly appreciate your remark," replied the Doctor; "but before any lengthened period can elapse, improvement must reach the remotest districts, and awaken the most apathetic to the knowledge of the world's age, and the diities that their fellow- creatures in that same world expect from them." Between talking and reflection the time slipped away so agree- ably that our party arrived at the Doctor's house before they were scarcely aware of it. After the customary repast, the gentlemen indulged in an agTceable conversation, in which the subjects of fishing- and shooting were brought on the tapis. " The state of our fisheries," observed the Doctor, " and the inexhaustible resources of this part of British enterprise, are not 120 A SEASON AT HARWICH. veiy g-enerally known. Even in their restricted efforts, the readi- ness witli which the London markets are supphed, (tons of fish constantly arriving-,) is so astonishing", that, on the first glance, you are lost in amazement when attempting- to account for it. But all surprise ceases when one considers the thousands, nay, even millions which comprise the roe of the herring-, the cod, the Hng-, and indeed almost the whole of the esculent fish that flock to our shores. Then, ag-ain, they must he witnessed to convey to the mind a correct notion with regard to the aggregate. I have seen the herring," continued the Doctor, " in such shoals that, in order to estimate their numhers, it is actually necessary to measure theii" extent hy miles, and this when they are moving in one compact hody, and of a proportionable depth irom the surface. Masses advance fi-om the northern seas, early in the spring*, in undiminished niimbers, though preyed upon by multitudes of enemies, as well beneath the surface of then* element, as above itj in whatever direction these vast columns proceed, they have to sustain the attacks of the grampus, the porpoise, the British shark, the cod-fish, and even the haddock ; and if they approach the sur- face flocks of aquatic birds are ready to drop down upon them tliroughout their line of march." " The pUchard bears a strong resemblance to the herring. Is it of the same family, sir ? " inquired Mr. Benson. "Yes," rephed the Doctor, "the pilchard, like the herring, is also a migratory fish ; but it makes its appearance fi-om the south- ward in vast shoals, inferior only to those of the herring. The mackerel, also, is of equal, some writers indeed say, of greater fecundity than the herring, and equally liable to the attacks of the same enemies. The supply of various kinds of ' white-fish,' as they are popularly termed — such as turbots, soles, plaice, whitings, and haddocks — is inexhaustible during the whole year. On our shores lobsters and oysters are taken in abundance; and even in our waters as many as fifty sad of smacks have been seen at one time dredging for oyster-spat to take to Brighthngsea, &c. The con- tinuation of this practice has deprived Harwich of its oyster-beds ; the town's-people regardmg this wholesale robbery, I am sorry to say, with the greatest indifterence. The Ipswich people, on the contrary. CHAPTER VIII. 121 protect theirs on the Orwell, and the fishermen consequently obtain an abundant harvest. You may frequently see a larg-e number of ves- sels eng-ag-ed here in dredging for mussels ; these, as has been before mentioned, are sold to the deep-sea fishermen for bait. We appear to have made but httle advance towards prosperity since our townsmen, then the first in the field, commenced fisliing on the Dogger Bank. These parties, after one or two successful trips, invented the store- boats, contrived for keeping the fish alive. From three vessels, the number increased to twelve, and year to year adding- to their numerical strength, until, in 1778, they consisted of a little fleet of seventy-eight boats, averaging- from forty-five to fifty-five tons burthen. At this time Harwich was the prin- cipal fishing--port on the eastern coast of England, and supplied the tables of our nobihty and gentry with the various dainty fish that I have enumerated. But since the last-mentioned date, tliis trade has most wofully declined, the number of fisliing vessels in the year 1833, having- dwindled down to the pitiful number of ten, about which they may be estimated at present." "Judging from the quantity of fisliing-smacks I saw in the harbour to-day," observed Mr. Benson, " I should rather have imagined that there had been considerably more than the number you just now mentioned, sir." " It is not so, my friend," rephed the Doctor. " The smacks we saw, had been to London, had discharged their cargoes, and after- wards arrived here for a supply of whelks and miissels for bait, previous to betalcing themselves to their respective fishing-grounds ; and out of three hundred and seventy sail of smacks employed in the North Sea Fisheries, nearly all call here for this purpose ; except a few that call at Whitstable. If they were to put into this port, disembark their cargoes, (which I am informed annually amount to forty thousand tons of fish,) transmit the same by rail to London, and then receive their bait, the fish would arrive in the London markets in two hours and a half after having been removed fi'om the wells, and then each smack, saving the time it woxdil take to make the trip to and from London, would be again on her voyage to the fishing-ground." 12'2 A SEASON AT HAUWICH. '■'■ No doubt," said Mr. Benson, " when tlie few miles of railway are completed, this important advantage will accrue." " I have conversed," returned the Doctor, " with many gentlemen much more familiarly acquainted with this subject than I profess to be, and their opinions entirely coincide with your views." "Taking a sportsman's view of your subject, sir," observed Walter, "do the waters near the town afford anything worth anghng for ? " " The season for whiting fishing," replied the Doctor, " is looked forward to with as eager anticipation, and on its arrival enjoyed with fully as much zest, as partridge and pheasant shooting is in other places. The gentlemen who pursue the former sport, commence at an early hour in the morning, when the tide serves, anchor their boats in the rivers, and by means of a common haul-line, with hooks baited with worms, or any of the mollusks, or small cnistaceous animals or young fish, are generally successful. But if you are unacquainted with this mode of fishing, any of the boatmen who attend will initiate you into the secrets of the gentle craft. The gray mullet affords excellent sport in our rivers, equal to trout-fish- ing. The system pursued is precisely similar. By whipping' the surface of the water, when the tide is coming in, using the same description of fly employed for trout, with a strong, good, gut-line, plenty of running-tackle and a pliable rod, no better sport coidd be desired, nor a finer fry obtained. Whiffing for pollacks, a species of whiting, may be practised the whole year round by the brotherhood of the angle, with great success ; and mackerel may be taken by a similar kind of line, baited with a piece of red cloth. And, I am told, by the same means the red gurnard may be caught with the hook baited with a shining piece of a sand-launce or sand-eel. It is a bold and courageous fish, and when hooked will struggle as much as a perch, and consequently afford equal sport ; but the same caution must be observed as when angling for the latter fish. That very delicate piscine specimen, the smelt, is here taken in great abundance. Sand-eels and sand-laimces are generally used as bait for a great variety of fish. The former bury themselves in the soft sand, and are caught by means of a stout wire bent in the form of a reaping-hook, and those pleased with the CHAPTER VIII. 123 excitement attendant upon such matters, will receive much amuse- ment in pursuing this sport. [A detailed account of other varieties will be found in the Researches B.] Shooting here is continued nearly throughout the year; it commences in the spring, with the curlew, a bird frequently to be met with ut all seasons of the year; it feeds on marine insects. The best time to approach them is in the months of April and May. Here are also many varieties of the plover, in excellent condition from April to August. The wild swan, or hooper, the beraacle goose, the brent goose, as well as several varieties of the duck, common to most parts of the coast, afford good sport. It would be tedious, iu this place, to enumerate the other different species of birds ; let ii suffice, then, to say that game abounds in our neighbourhood, and the various kinds of objects for sportsmen, common to most parts of England."* After the gentlemen had rejoined the ladies, the subject of amusements for the young of both sexes followed, a-jyrojms, that of sporting. In reply to a question, referring to this subject, from Miss Archer, Dr. Bremmer said — " I must admit that, in this respect, the town is singulai'ly deficient ; but if visitors continue to flock in such numbers, as they have done during this summer, we shall very quickly have a troop of caterers for the amusement of the public. Bazaars for the sale of the many pretty little gems foimd upon our sands and in our chffs would soon follow. Those beautiful, clear, crystalline pebbles, that make such excellent counterfeit diamonds, will be esteemed for setting, as little remembrances of Harwich. The small sparks of rubies found on Landguard Beach, would be eagerly sought after and made doubly valuable by some handicraftsmen. Amber and cornehans might be profitably collected by children, and sold to dealers in those articles. And who knows but it may be thought some day worth while to make models of the Lighthouses, Freston Tower and Wolsey's Gate, at Ipswich, and cast them in cement, with a variety of beautifid figures and vases, pohshed or otherwise, all contributing towards a stock of rai'ities to remind visitors of the interesting places from whence they brought * liesearches B. 124 A SEASON AT HARWICH. tliem. To these I may add, that I have seen most beautiHd httle baskets made from sulphate of copper, the bright blue spars daz- zhngly attractive; and this sulphate abounds here. Talc would answer the same purpose. Then, again, there is a qiiantity of teeth that have been found in antediluvian animal recrements. I think that, with the aid of a little cement, a variety of ornaments could be made from these. Univalves and bivalves might be collected and worked into artificial flowers, as I have seen elsewhere. Here they can have the best cement to adhere the particles together, an advan- tage not possessed at any other watering-place in the kingdom. You, young ladies, must receive a lesson, that I shall be happy to give, in collecting good specimens of sea-weeds, and making them into httle baskets of posies : it is a very simple process." " We shall require no flirther provocation," said JMiss Archer and Elizabeth, with one accord, "and shall only feel too happy to receive the rudiments of that delightfid study, by way of a first lesson." " Attend, then ; " said their mentor. " After collecting" j'our specimens, divest them of the sand they may be encumbered with, and flatten them between the leaves of a book. In the next place, draw on a sheet of paper youi' design for a basket or a vase, then rim your pen-knife across the upper margin of the drawing, through the sheet or card, and through this slit must be thrust the ends of your plant, and stick the backs lightly with g-um on to the paper. The ends of the weeds, at the back, should be covered with another sheet of paper, unless you design to frame and glaze it. But yoiu' lesson has diverted the theme. As I had been previously about to add, that there is a great variety of curious and beautiful geological specimens j these might be collected and arranged in pasteboard boxes, with glass lids, and, in short, be very like to GuUiver's Travels, ' amusing to those who are unlearned in the subject, and valuable to those who are.' Then, again, there is a mmiber of agate stones that some of our people occasionally polish and make into bracelets. Other rarities there are that might well contribute their quota towards stocking a bazaar. Many amusements, suitable to the inhabitants of a select watering-place, would quickly follow in train. An annual regatta we already have ; but this last I shall CHAPTER VIII. 125 treat more liberally under its proper liead ; and as tliis day Las been a long- one, and a variety of subject-matters that Lave mostly for the first time been introduced to your notice, it ^\^ll be only doing- ourselves justice to talve some rest, by way of preparation for the morrow, when I sLall invite your attention to new scenes and subjects, and thus keep alive your interest in the town of Harwich." With this last remark our party adjourned for the niglit. lOO A SEASON AT IIAUWICH. CHAPTER IX. IN WHICH WILL BE FOUND A DESCRIPTION OF THE MARKET A VISIT TO LANDGUARD FORT — AND AN EXCURSION TO FELIX- STOW AND THE TRIMLEYS. ARLY tlie next morning-, tlie weather being- still favonrable, the g-entlemen took a short walk down f^ to the heach beyond the cliff, and partook of" tlie luxury of a plung-e into the sea, the ladies being- similarly eng-ag-ed, assisted by the machines near the jetty ; after which both parties returned and sat down to break- fast, invig-orated and refreshed, and to which repast they did hearty justice. Elizabeth Tvdshed to know whether the great concourse of people they met in and about the town, on the day previously, were accustomed to frequent Harwich in the bathing--season. " It is true," observed the Doctor, *■' that many visitors flock here in most summers, but tliis season a more than usually larg-e number have honoured us with a visit, thanks to the facilities afforded by the Eastern Union Railway and the steam-boats that ply on the Orwell, communicating- between Ipswich and Harwich, thus afford- ing- the opportunity of making" excursion trips at a trifling- cost. This," continued the Doctor, "being market-day — Friday, (the market, by the way, is held also on Tuesday,) I shall invite you to take a lesson in housewifery. Already I see the country-people trudg-ing- and jog-g-ing to market with their eg-g-s, poultry, and butter, and the sooner we follow, the g-reater wiU be our choice, and the longer our day for viewing new objects." Accordingly, hats, cloaks, and bonnets were in immediate requi- sition, and our party were shortly after on the esplanade, on their way to the market-place, which is situate in King's Quay »Street, where they found a good sujjply of '' flsh, flesh, and fowl," fruits, CHAPTER IX. 127 vegetables, eggs, butter, and, in short, all that conld be desired to replenish the most deficient larder. Mr. Benson, who accompanied the Doctor upon all occasions, remarked upon the chea|)ness of pro- visions generally, and the convenience of the arrang-ement of the market. The shambles form the sides of a square, the centre being ajipropriated to the sale of the various articles brought by the country people from the surrounding neighbourhood. " When," inquired Mr. Benson, " was the market first instituted ?" "In 1318," replied the Doctor, "Thomas de Brotherton, brother to Edward 11, , through his influence with that monarch, procured a charter, making Harwich a borough corporate and a market- town." After despatching their purchases home, the Doctor led the way to the Baths and Club Room, erected by John Bagshaw, Esq., M.P. The two establishments form one structure, which is exceedingly neat, and the whole is internally arranged in a very clever manner; comprising reading and club-rooms, refreshment-room, keeper's residence, and a range of rooms containing hot, cold, and shower baths, with every convenience appertaining to the same. The reading-room they found to be fitted up with much taste, and provided with a small but select Hbrarj'^, newspapers, the quarterly and montlily reviews, (fee. There was likewise the nucleus of a museum, to which, doubtless, if a good example were set, most liberal additions would be contributed by the surroundmg gentry. In answer to an inquiry fi-om Walter, the Doctor said, that it was styled the club-room from the fact of its being the head- quarters of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club, established in Septem- ber, 1843. This was a short time after a meeting had been held, (the Right Hon. Thos. Milner Gibson, M.P., president,) to determine the question of instituting a yacht club ; and, notwithstanding it is of such recent origin, the number of members em-olled amoimts to above two hundred, and they possess many fine vessels. " For this rapid progress," continued the Doctor, "the club is much indebted to the exertions of the first rear-commodore of the squadron, Wm. Knight, Esq. He obtained for it the distinguished patronage of the late lamented Queen Dowager, and, in consequence, it became from that moment a royal institution. The Admiralty, also, verv 128 A SEASON AT HARWICH. gTaciously permitted tlie members to use tlie blue ensign of her Majesty's naval service, and the Treasury conferred every privileg-e enjoyed by the other Royal Yacht Clubs in the kingdom. Subse- quently, in May, 184G, Mr. Knight received a letter from Sir James Graham, informing him that Her Majesty had been graciously pleased to consent to be patroness of the club ; and shortly after- wards, another letter from the Hon. George Anson, private secretary to His Royal Highness, Prince Albert, intimating that he had also been graciously pleased to accede to the request made by the club, of becoming one of its patrons. Exertions were also made by several influential gentlemen, connected with the town, and the residt has been, as I have already stated, most satisfactory. Mr. Knight also succeeded in obtaining for the Harwich Club many privileges from foreign powers." " I think," said Mr. Benson, " that the town's-people, each and all, ought to congratulate themselves on the exertions made by the spirited members of this club, several of whom are the heads of some of the most distinguished families in the kingdom." The Doctor, taking down fi-om the hbrary shelves a file of London newspapers, read an extract therefrom as follows : — " We are not amongst those who regard a regatta as a mere pastime : it has nobler uses, and leads to the most beneficial results. Yacht Clubs have ever improved our royal navy, and this fact is more than enough to stimulate every gentleman who loves his country to enrol himself a member of a yacht club. Touching Harwich, the day is not far distant when eveiy man of station throughout Essex, and Sufiblk, and Norfolk, will be a member of its yacht club. Not a noir faineant will be found in such counties as these. The eastern counties gave birth to Nelson, and as Harwich is the only port worthy of the name of port, between the Thames and the H umber, Harwich is properly the foctis, where yachting spirits most should congregate. Their crews form a nursery for that noble service in which Nelson died. If but to honour his memory, as the hero of the eastern coast, the most gallant man born amongst them, the men of Norfolk, Suffolk, and Essex, should rally round the colours of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club, and bring up its members to a tliousand strong. What increased employment for seamen would CHAPTER IX. 129 tliis afford ! But let us uot cnlarg-e upon these heads, since we are confident that as it is beyond doubt that Yacht Clubs benefit Old England, the liint we have now g-iven will have its full effect amongst the patriotic circles of the eastern counties." Mr. Benson said he hoped, for his friend's sake, the object of this spirited article would be accomplished, and the result eventually correspond with the wishes of its author. The good Doctor said he devoutly trusted that such would be the case ; and leaving the refreshment-room, attached to this building-, walked on to the jetty, and observing- the water to be unnifiled, proposed that their party should make an excursion to Landguard Fort and Felixstow. His wishes appeared to have been anticipated, for scarcely had the proposition been made before three or foiu- stout burly men, in most picturesque costume, solicited to be employed to conve}^ them over. A crew was quickly selected, and according'ly the party, descending- the steps fi-om the jetty, embarked in a wherry, and the latter pushed off, dancing- lightly over tlie sparkling- surface, in obedience to the stm-dy fellows who had the buoyant boat under their control. They crossed near to the mouth of the harbour, b}- the direction of their hospitable entertainer, and passed by the end of the narrow neck of land which extends into the ocean beyond the Fort. The object of their giiide was to confirm the information he had before given them, of the quantity of shingle and other substances washed up by the sea in this part. The ladies, however, were not landed here, but under the walls of the fort, and being- joined by the rest of the party, they at once proceeded over the draw-bridg-e to the entrance situate imder the chapel. On the right hand they observed an exceedingly comfortable-looking- building-, which they Avere informed by Dr. Breinmer was the oflicial residence of the g-ovcrnor and lieutenant-g-overnor J and facing- the g-ate stand the barracks, commodiously arrang-ed for the soldiery, two companies of whom were formerly stationed here. The Fort did not originally wear a very formidable aspect ; but the government of late having- determined to augment the artillery arm, as well as to improve generally the defences of the country, resolved to add to the strengtli of this important position, 1' 130 A SEASON AT HARWICH. by mounting" a battery of eleven heavy g-uns, on revolving' frames ; which; with twenty-five others of various calibre on the out- works, now give to the fortification a very formidable appearance. The Doctor satisfactorily pointed out to his friends, that it well ful- filled the purpose of its erection : namely, that of a defence for Harwich and its harbour — its admirable position rendering it com- pletely adequate to ward off, in a most efficient manner, any attack on the east-side — commanding the entrance to the harbour, which is to be g-ained solely by a deep channel, considerably narrowed on the Suffolk side. The Avhole teemed with active life, it bein^ at this time full of troops, under the command of Coptain G. D. Warburton, R.A. LANDGUARD FORT. ''The present governor is Colonel West, a very distinguished officer," said Dr. Bremmer, in answer to a question fi*om Mr. Benson. "The building," continued the Doctor, "was erected in the yenr 1718, and was enlarged in the early part of this century. A former fort had been demolished in the above year, by a decree of parliament. It is not exactly known when the first was erected ; but certainly before the time of Henry VIII., for, that one existed appears evident froiu wliat Taylor writes, althoug-h Camden makes no mention of a fort existing- in his time, but notices CHAPTER IX. l;31 * a ridg-e, called " Lang-er-stone," which runs two miles out into the sea, to the danger of mariners, but is of use for the fishermen to dry their nets, and serves as a fence to the harbour of Orwell.' * Taylor says that a fort, existing- before that standing- in his time, was known by the same name ; ' south-west of which,' he writes, 'is the entrance into the harbour. In the disturbance of Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, in the first year of Queen Mary, in 1553, the town of Harwich was furnished with g^xns from thence.' This ancient fort, situate a little to the north of the one then standing-, was, as it nov/ is, the burial-ground of the soldiery. In Taylor's time, were still to be seen two faces and flankers of a bastion, the remains doubtless of the ancient fort, the rest having- been washed away by the sea, and in its place upon the shore was a long- row of sand-banks, imder wliich the Dutch, on the 1st of July, 1667, landed about three thousand men, at the foot of Felixstow Cliff; and, with about two-thirds of this number, marched near to the fort under cover of these banks, hedg- ing themselves within carbine-shot on two sides of it. ^ After about an hour's incessant firing- with their small arms, rather ag-ainst the firmament than the fort,' as Taylor facetiously remarks, these redoubtable troops were put to flight by two or three small guns belong-ing to a little galliot, which, firing- upon the shingle, their previous ambush, scattered the pebbles amongst them, and the guns of the fort playing upon them, completed their discomfiture, and utterly routed the invaders. But," continued the Doctor, " with pleasure I recur to my brief memoir of the forts. The j)n'cioiis fort, as I shall term it, in contradistinction to the most ancient and this before us, is described as having- had four bastions, each mounted with fifteen very large guns ; these bastions were severally styled the ' King's,' the ' Queen's,' ' Warwick's,' and ' Holland's.' These names appear to infer that the fort was erecteil long- prenous to the reign of Elizabeth, and strengthens Taylor's evidence of one formerly existing hereabout. But fi-om all I can gather," added Dr. Bremmer, " it was either built in the early years of the reign of Charles I.,t or towards the termination of his father's reig-n." * Gougli's Camden. | The chaiicl of this structure Avas consecrated by the Bishop of Norwich, ou the 7th of September, 1623. 133 A SEASON AT HAnWICH. The celebrated Captain Philip Thicknesse was Lieutenant- Governor in 1753; of whom Dr. Bremmer g-ave the following- account : — This eccentric gentleman was born in 1720, and descended li'om an ancient and honourable family, established at Barterly Hall, in Staffordshire. His brother, who was afterwards master of St. Paul's school, having- chosen an academical career, Philip adopted that of arms, to which he afterwards associated that of letters; but, after serving abroad for some time under General Trelawney, he abandoned the former pursuit, and devoted liimself wholly to the cidtivation of the muses. He returned to Eng-land, and married Miss La Neuve, a lady of the French family of Berenger, with whom he expected to receive a fortune of ^£40,000, but was disappointed by receiving only ,£5000. After the death of this lady, he was ag-ain married ; his second bride being Lady Ehzabeth, the daughter of the Earl of Castlehaven, and widow of Lord Audley. In this mar- riage he also received £5000 as the dowry of his wife, and it was with a portion of this money, amounting' to £1500, that he purchased the Lieutenant-Governorship of Landguard Fort. He was extremely handsome, his conversation was entertaining, his talents great, his manners elegant and fascinating ; he excelled in all the accomplishments of the day; but, from his keen sense of honour, was rather too susceptible of even the appearance of insult or rudeness. This cause led him into frequent duels ; which, how- ever, were not then looked upon with the same feelings as at present, and he, being an expert swordsman, using his left hand as well as his right, generally came off victorious ,• yet we do not find that he ever wounded his opponent severely in any of these foolish affi'ays. His satire was keen, but evinced no malice ; and as a specimen of it we may mention, that, in consequence of a dispute Avith Colonel Vernon, afterwards Earl of Shipbrooke, Captain Thicknesse sent him a present of a wooden g-un. This caused an action for libel, tried at the Bury Assizes, August 5th, 1763, in which he was found guilty, and, besides a fine of three hundred pounds, was sentenced to imprisonment for three months. This action formed a new case on the books, as prior to this time, writing CHAPTER IX. 133 aloue iiirnislied a good gTound for an action of this kind. During- Ins confinement in the King's Bench, to which prison lie was consigned, the gaiety of the governor did not forsake hirn, for he had a painting of a gun placed over the door of his apartment, which was afterwards occupied by Mr. Wilkes, and long known by the name of the " Gun-room." The first years of his marriage glided smoothly away. During the winter he resided with his partner, who appears to have been a superior kind of woman, in the governor's apartments, where they received the visits of the neighbouring gentry ; and in the summer they inhabited a charming little retreat, called Felixstow Cottage, now in the possession of John Chevalier Cobbold, Esq., M.P. This place, which was before merely a fisherman's hut, was converted, by the taste of the captain and his lady, into one of the most delightfid little villas imaginable. It was here that Lady Betty Thicknesse, after giving- bii-th to a son, breathed her last ; and the shock to the governor was for a time so great, that he abandoned the place where every tiling recalled to his memory the great loss he had sustained. The care of his family was left to Miss Ford, the daughter of an eminent solicitor, who was on a visit to the governor's lady, at the time of her decease. So well did Miss Ford acquit herself of the duties thus imposed upon her, that, on his return, the Captain began to think that no one could so well supply the loss of his lady as her most intimate friend. Accordingly, after due courtship. Miss Ford became the tliird wife of the captain, on September Ortii, 17C2, and, as the union was founded on reciprocal esteem, so it was continued during thirty years with uninterrupted felicity. The eccentricity of Phihp Thicknesse was particularly exhibited in his conduct at his marriage with this lady. The wedding might have been designated as a public one, there being no less than three hundred ladies and gentlemen present on the occasion. The liveries were of the most gorgeous description. Sir Armine Wodehouse, who acted as father to the bride, attended with a coach and six horses, in full regi- mentals, as colonel of the Norfolk Militia, whilst the bridegroom himself appeared in the Tiniform of a private of the same corps, of which he was a member. The life of tranquillity which he passed 13-i A SEASON AT HARWICH. at Felixstovv and Landg-uard Fort, began to pall on the active spirit of the g'overnor : he had finished his cottage and all its ornaments — the charm of novelty v/as at an end ; and a villa, like a picture, ceases to be interesting to the artist, when it holds out no prospect of further improvement. Through the interest of the Marqms of Rockingham, Captain Singleton was nominated to the command of Landguard Fort, and such friendly arrangements were made, that Mr. Thick- nesse was no loser by the appointment. He also sold his cottag*e at Felixstow to the Dowager Lady Bateman, for the sum of four hundred pounds, about half the money he had spent on it. Mr. Thicknesse has left us an entertaining' account of what he called his Tour through France; and though the work abounds in interest, the egregious vanity of the man breaks out in every page. On his arrival at Paris, he immediately waited on the Duke of Richmond, at that time our ambassador at the Court of Versailles ; and when Lady Rochford, wife of the duke's successor, was pre- sented, he, in company with the Duke of Northumberland, and several noblemen and gentlemen, was introduced in her train. His description of the entertainment given by the court on this occasion is perfectly unique in its kind. The ex-governor was fond of being in the best company ; here his taste was gratified, for he was placed between an Irish peer and a bishop. " Tliis dinner," we must give his own words, " was brought to table by a regiment of whiskered Swiss soldiers, while a great number of idle servants stood behind the chairs of their ladies and masters, with their hats on ; and, what was still more extraordinary, I saw four boys, assistants in the kitchen, stand dhectly opposite to the ambassadress and the Duchess de Choiseul, with nightcaps on their heads, which no time could have rendered more filthy, and their other apparel equally obnoxious. Tliis is the ease and freedom for which France is celebrated ; indeed, it is such an oho of magnificence, elegance, riches, and poverty, that disagreeable and disgusting objects do not strike the eyes and minds of the natives as they do those of other nations." After some stay on the continent, ]Mr. Thicknesse and his family returned to England, and some time aftei-, JMadame La Neuve dying, he considered he had a claim to .£12,000 left by her. Accord- CHAPTER IX. 130 ing-ly, the matter was referred to the Court of Chancery, which decided ag'ainst his chiim • and an appeal to the House of Lords was equally unsuccessfxil. Under this disappointment, he soug-ht solace in his library and the society of his family. This was in 1784, whilst residing' at Bath ; but, previous to this, he made another journey to France, as we find him, on the 20th of June, 1775, at Calais, which he describes as " a sort of enlarg-ed King's Bench prison, where the English fugitives live within the rules, and the French inhabitants make it a nde to oppress and distress them." His intention was to settle in Spain, and after visiting his daughter in the convent of Ardres, and having- been assured by her that she was perfectly happy, he proposed to cross the Pyi-enees. In a letter to a friend, written at this time, he says, " As my travelling- must be on a frug-al plan, I have sold my four-wheel postchaise to M. Dessein for twenty-two guineas, and boug-ht a French cabriolet for ten, and likewise a very handsome Enghsh coach-horse, (a little touched in the wind, indeed,) for seven. This equipage I have fitted up, with every convenience I can contrive, to carry me, my wife, two daughters, and all my other bagg-age. You will conclude, there- fore, light as the latter may be, we are bien charges; but as we move slowly, not above seven leagues a day, I shall have the more leisure to look about me, and to consider what sort of remarks may prove most worthy of communicating from time to time to you." The travellers themselves occasioned no small surprise to the inhabitants; the governor, clad after the English manner, was seated on the fore-part of a cabriolet, drawn by one horse, with a servant before, who acted in tlie original character of a footman, his hair being dressed, after the English fashion of the time, with a pig-tail; a monkey, clothed after the French manner, with jack boots, and a red jacket, laced with silver, acting the part of a postilhon ; his wife, and two daughters seated within ; guitars and bass-viols, together with a jiarrot, placed in proper order; antl an English dog instead of a groom behind ! It vras on this occasion that he chose to represent liimself as a man, who, having rendered important services to his ungrateful country, had been neglected and unrewarded by the government. His method of announcing- tliis circumstance was by placing, on the back of the cabriolet 13G A SEASON AT HARWICH. mentioiKHl, the word '^ CosmopoUta,^^ in g'oklen letters ; whilst a fine painting- of Belisarius reduced to want, with the motto in French — " Behold his recompense," was placed in a conspicuous part. He seems to have been disappointed in Spain, for he did not penetrate farther than Catalonia; but, after visiting- Barcelona, Montserrat, and other places in the provmce, he returned by Paris to England. During- this, which proved to be his last residence in liis native land, whilst spending- a few weeks in the neighbourhood of Hythe, he happened to observe a deserted barn in the little villag-e of Sandg-ate, on the sea-coast, and determined to try the effect of his creative g-enius on it. It commanded a fine view of the coast of France, and from it, on a clear day, the steeples of Boulog-ne mig-ht be discerned with a good glass, while the surrounding hills could be clearly seen with the naked eye. Standing alone on the beach, it presented eveiy advantage in point of situation and prospect ; but it was nothing better or worse than a tobacco warehouse, unshapely in form and appearance, which had been abandoned by the manufac- turer, and was then to be sold for a trifle. It was purchased, and a sudden transformation took place ; a large glass window, inserted into the gable end, opened a prospect at once noble and sublime. Partitions converted it into separate apartments ; a parlour adorned with drawings by Mrs. Thicknesse ; a kitchen and suite of bed- chambers were produced as if by enchantment; whilst a gilded crescent, placed on the roof, gave an appearance of whimsicality to the whole. For some time he resided here ; but the daily sight of the continent created a desire to \isit it once more, and the governor proceeded to Calais about the memorable period of the revolution. He rejoiced that Liberty had, as he expressed it, stolen into France ; but from his knowledge of the people, he doubted whether they were yet sufficiently enlightened to make a proper use of it. He deplored the situation of the unfortunate king, whom he considered to be weak, rather than g-uilty, and after his imprisonment, drew up several memorials in his favour ; but he soon saw that his fate was inevitable, and that multitudes would be involved in his ruin. The tide of popular feeling had set strongly against the aristocracy, and the common cry was, "war against the castle and mansion, CHAPTER IX. 137 and peace to tlie cottiig-e ; " and as Mr. Thicknesse occupied a suite of apartments in the palace formerly belong-ing- to the Ducliess of Kingston, lie took the hint, and determined to retreat into Italy, where he proposed to stay for two or three years. He, therefore, let his house in the Crescent at Bath, to a lady of rank, obtained bills fi'om Messrs. Hammersley, the bankers, and had already com- menced his journey, when, on the day after leaving" Boulog-ne, he fell down in a fit, and expired on the 22nd of November, 1792, in the arms of his affectionate wife, and in the seventy-third year of his age. Philip Thicknesse no doubt had his faults ; all of us have : but though his eccentricity sometimes approached the verge of insanity, he was, taking him altogether, a man wortliy of the remembrance of posterity. Possessing rare talents himself, he was not bHnd to those of others. It was he who first brought the painter Gains- borough into notice, he being then a frequent guest of the governor's, who, discovering his talent, employed him to paint a view of Land- giiard Fort and the surrounding scenery. This picture remained for some time in the place, and is said to have been one of the happiest productions of Gainsborough, but was eventually destroyed by being placed against a damp wall, the mortar of which had been made with salt water. A print is all that remains to convey an idea of the original. It was engraved by Major, in 170-1-, and detli- cated to Lord George Beauclerk, then governor of Landguard Fort. Gainsborough, it is said, was of an irritable disposition, and did not prove so grateful to his patron as could have been wished. Whilst Governor Thicloiesse was residing at Felixstow, he amused liimself mth a small printing press, which he had procured, and was supposed to be the author of a series of libels against Lord Orwell, with whom he at this time had some disagreement 5 and this nobleman was so nettled by tliem, that, in an advertisement which appeared in the journals of the time, he offered £100 for the discovery of the printer. His acknowledged works are — A memoir of Gainsbonntf/h — Man Mkhvifcvy AnaJ>/srd — Ol/jurvafions on the French Xat'ion — Cluiractcr of Persons now Livokj (1770) — A Joxirney through France — The Art of Deciplicr'ing — Queries to Lord Audhij — Epistle to Br. Falconer, of Bath — Letter to 138 A SEASON AT IIARM'ICH. Lord Coventry — Letter to Dr. Adair — Letter to Lady Andley — New Prose Bath Guide — Valetudinarian's Bath Guide — Useful Hints, cjr. His widow^ Mrs. Tliicknesse, survived him more than tliirty years, dying* at Bath, in the year 1803, in the ninety-seventh year of her age. She was a lady of gTeat attainments, and, hefore her marriage, had gi'eatly attracted the notice of the fashionable world. Being" strongly pressed by her father to choose a husband from the numerous suitors by whom she was assailed, she withdrew herself from the parental authority, and formed the resolution of singing in public. To carry out this purpose, she hired the Italian Opera- House for three nights ; and, notwithstanding that her father took extraordinary pains to prevent her appearance, she was supported by Prince Edward, with a great number of the nobility, and actually cleared £1500 by her exhibition. After tlie death of her husband, she published a work, called The School for Fathers, in two volumes, which is written with great spirit and humour, as well as with delicacy and good feeling-, exhibiting the characters of many well-known individuals of that time in a striking point of view ; and it abounds with curious anecdotes of her eccentric husband. In the year 1702, the celebrated Sir Richard Steele resided at Landguard Fort, as appears from a letter written by him, of wluch the following is a copy, the original being, we beheve, now in the possession of Dr. Milles, dean of Exeter : — • " Land Guard Fort, " Sept. 28, 1702. " Gentlemen, " The Governor of this Garrison, Colonel Jones, before he went to town, where he is at present, directed Mr. Hubbard, your officer here, to represent the ill-condition the barracks, and all parts of this garrison, is in, as to our windows and tyling ; there are sick men of the Company here, (whereof I am Captain,) lye in their beds expos' d to all the injuries of the weather ; I have at present two sergeants, two corporalls, and nine sentinells so ill that they cannot do duty ; which if I cannot attribute to this cause, I am sure I may say I cannot expect the continuance of the men's health if the remedy be deferred till the winter advances further upon CHAPTER IX. 139 lis. I hope my duty to them has not pressed mo beyond rules to you, in giving you this trouble. " I am, Gentlemen, " Your most obedient and most humble Servant, "RICHD. STEELE."* Upon leaving" the Foit, by the same entrance that admitted the party, Dr. Bremmer induced them to make a circuit of the buUding-, and he pointed out the extent of the channel. " Many years ag-o," he observed, " there existed a tradition among the old folks of Harwich that if a board had been laid upon two horses' heads, at low water, I presume, the town's-men of those days could have passed fi'om Harwich to the Fort ; and that the stream which runs up to Ipswich on the south, formerly had a channel to the north of that place; and, we shall perceive on examination of the soil and the situation of the Common and the ' Fleets,' or ' Fletes,' that there can be no doubt but that it formerly was covered b}- the sea, and thus far favours the hypothesis before assumed." After this review of the subject, Mr. Benson having- assented to his friend's decision, the party left Landguard Fort, and pro- ceeded on foot along- the beach to Felixstow, delig-hted with the walk, the fine firm sand, the clearness of the water, which foamed and lashed the shore, and the broad expansive view of the German Ocean. And while the g-ood Doctor from time to time directed attention to the numerous vessels speeding- over the restless waves to their destinations — a scene at once majestic, bold, and beautifid — the spirits of his companions seemed elevated to a degree of enthusiasm that no pen can convey; and it was with feelings akin to regret that they fotmd themselves under Felixstow Cliff. "This place," said the Doctor, "derived its name from Felix, a Burgundian, the first bishop of Dimwich, who is supposed to have landed here. The town of Orwell, with its port, is conjectured to have been then a flourishing place. That he sojourned here some time, however, before removing to DuuAvich, is foimded on no better * For this letter we are indebted to a learned contributor to the Woodbridge Gazette, for June, 1843 ; a paper which aboimds in antiquarian information on local subjects. 140 A SEASON AT HARWICH. authority than the numerous httle mitred imag'es discovered in the locahty, and supposed to have heen made to his honour." Here they found some very neat huikhug-s, erected for the con- venience of visitors, hy whom, in the summer, the place is much frequented. Besides these, the hite Sir Robert Harhmd has erected a marine viUa, of a very chaste design; John Cohbold, Esq., J. Quilter, Esq., and others, have residences here ; while the cottage celebrated by having been the residence of Governor Thicknesse, is, as we have before said, in the possession of John Chevalier Cohbold, Esq., the member for Ipswich. This cottage has been described witli much taste and great minuteness by Mrs. Thicknesse, in her enter- taining- memoirs, and though some slight alterations have been made in the building since that time, the description would not vary much from the truth if it were to be described at the present time. The sea has made the most destructive ravages on this part of the coast, and a traditional account states, that the chif formerly extended two miles further into the sea than at present. Upon a liigh chff in Felixstow, formerly stood Walton Castle, part of the foundation of the west side of which remained in 1740. It was one hundred and eighty-seven yards in leng-th, and nine feet thick ; part of the south end was then washed away by the sea. The country people called it " The Stone Works," but it is now com- pletely engulphed in the ocean. Walton Castle is supposed to have been built by Constantine the Great ; and, from the large muuber of coins and Roman antiquities which have been found there, no doubt remains of its having been once a Roman station. The coins discovered are of the Vespasian and Antonine families; of Severus and his successors down to Gordian the Third ; and from Gallienus to Arcadius and Honorius. The castle must have had the privilege of coining money, as many dies have been found that had been used for that purpose. King- Henry II., having crushed the rebellion of his sons against himself, in 1170, tliis castle, which was then in the hands of Hugh Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, was demolished, its lord having- taken part against his sovereign; and so effectually was this done, that the stones were carried into all parts of Felixstow, Walton, and Trimloy, and footpaths paved with them on both sides of the road. CHAPTER IX. 141 About a qnui'ter of a mile north from Felixstow High Street, and at the same distance east from Walton bounds, in the parish of Felixstow, are very considerable ruins of an ancient and mag'nificent building-, which g'oes by the name of " Old Hall." It was probably erected for the manor house, soon after the demoHtion of the castle, and was the place where King- Edward III. lay some time at his manor at Walton, before his invasion of France, when he g-ained a victory over the French king-, near Cressy, in 1338. It was here he confirmed the charters g-ranted to the corporation of Ipswich, by an Tnspeximiis, dated at W-alton, in the twelfth year of his reig-n, 1339. Dr. Bremmer described many of the fossils found on this shore ; specifying' also, ag-ates, cornelians, jet, jasper, and amber, tlie last more frequently than the others ; and Mr. Benson purchased several specimens of a collector, in the neig'hbourhood, both rare and beautiful. Leaving- Felixstow in a carriag-e which had been procured at a posting--house in that place, our friends, having- partaken of an abundant luncheon, were conveyed to Trimley, through Walton. Here the remains of an old church first attracted attention, with part of what formerly constituted the tower, standing- at some distance from what is now the church, which is completely mantled with evergreens. " A fuU topog-raphical account of Felix- stow and this neighbourhood would prove to be highly interesting," remarked the Doctor. " Although much has been Avritten and appended to the histories of other places, I have never yet met with a separate and satisfactory account of this." The next object was the old market cross. " Roger Bigod," said Dr. Bremmer, " first obtained a grant for a market at Walton in the seventeenth year of Edward I., that is, in 1288; but it has long been disused." Passing through the very interesting rural village of Walton, they soon found themselves in Trimley, where the novel sight was presented of two churches in one churchyard. This anomaly was explamed in a tradition narrated by the Doctor to his friends. Two sisters having decided on founding and endowing a church in the parish, could not agree as to the aj)pointment of the first incumbent, but each wishing to nominate her favourite pastor, and 142 A SEASON AT HARWICH. neither being- willing- to yield to the other, they at last decided upon building- two contiguous churches which were named, respectively, Trimley St. Mary, and Triniley St. Martin. The former yet exliibits the remains of some very beautiful details in the perpendi- cular style of architecture. It formerly had a spire that fell down some years ag-o, and the tower is still in a very iniinous condition ; the g-reen ivy is creeping' stealthily over its walls, and in its pic- turesque beauty, is preferred by the artist before its sister church ; which, in direct contrast, will better please the eye of the utilitarian, who sees no loveliness in ruins. The church has lately been repaired, and rendered fit for the performance of divine service, and is quite fresh with its coloui'-washed stucco, and villa-looking- gables. There is little in Trimley worthy of notice except the beauty of the surrounding- scenery, which is of insurpassable loveliness, and the interest with which an Eng-lishman reg-ards the dwelling- of a man who has essentially served his country. Grimstone Hall, in this parish, was formerly the seat of Thomas Cavendish, Esq., distinguished in the annals of our country as the second Eng-lishman who circum- navig-ated the globe. Here are two specimens of the ilex, or ever- green oak, which were broug-ht from America, and planted by him. This gentleman, in the year 1586, at his own charge, equipped three vessels for an expedition to the South Sea, of which he took the chief command. The largest of these vessels was one hundred and twenty tons burthen, and was named the Desire ; the other two were the Content, of sixty, and the Hugh Gallant, of forty tons. They were victualled for a two year's voyage, and the number of persons who embarked was one Inmdred and twenty- three. Cavendish, according- to the custom of the time, was called the general, and sailed in the Desire. This hg-ht squadron left Plymouth July 21st, 1586. After touching on the coast of Africa and at St. Sebastian, he discovered and entered the harbour on the coast of Patagonia, which he named " Port Desire," from his own ship. After remaining here ten days, he proceeded to the eastern entrance of the strait, and while he lay at this anchorage, lights were seen on the shore during the night, which were answered from the ship. Next morning Cavendish went ashore, and saw tlu-ee Spaniards, part of the remnant of Sarmiento's CHAPTER IX. 143 colony. These men had some hesitation in trusting- themselves with the English, but one of them at last embarked in the boat, and the two others were sent for their associates, whose number had been, by sickness and famine, reduced to fifteen — being- twelve men and three women — thoug-h orig-inally upwards of two hundred. When the g-eneral arrived on board, he found the wind favourable for advancing- up the strait, upon which, without waiting for the wretched Spaniards, who expected their deliverance from him, he ordered the anchors to be weig-hed, and the ships proceeded on theii* voyage. The conduct of Cavendish on this occasion has been severely censured ; but the candid reader will remember that we were at war with Spain at this time ; and that, though the condition of warfare is not now so often allowed to ride over the duties of liTimanity, yet in the time of Cavendish, a commander would have been severely censured if he had converted an expedition, which was fitted out for the purpose of annoying the enemy, into the means of doing them an essential service ; more especially, if, by his delay, he had missed his passage through the Magellan Straits, the navigation of which was then considered extremely precarious. Having entered the South Sea, Cavendish arrived at Farmer's Bay, then called Quintero, on the 30th of March, 1587. When the ships came to an anchor, a shepherd on a hill near the sea-side awoke, and spying three strange vessels, caught a horse that was grazing near him, and rode away as fast as he could. This was seen from the ships. Shortly after, the general landed with tliirty men, and before he had been on shore an hour, three armed horse- men appeared, who approached within a short distance of the Englishmen. The general sent to them two of liis men, accompanied by Hernandez, (a Spaniard brought from the strait,) to act as their interpreter. The horsemen made sig-ns that only one of the party at a time shoidd approach them, and Hernandez, who made frequent protestations never to forsake the general, was allowed to go, being- instructed to treat with them for a supply of provisions. After some conference, Hernandez retm*ned, and told the general he had reported the English to be Spaniards, and had obtained a promise of being furnished with as much provision as they could desire. All 144 A SEASON AT IIAIIWICH. tliis was believed, and Hernandez was sent a second time with another messag-e, and one Eng-hshnian witli him as a g'uard ; but the horsemen would not consent that the guard should come near them, and Hernandez ag-ain went alone, who, after a short parley, and being" at a considerable distance from the Eng-lish, jumped up behind one of the horsemen, and they rode off at full gallop, leav- ing' the Englishman to complain of the bad faith of Hernandez, who, " notwithstanding all his deep and damnable oaths, that he would never forsake them, but would die on their side before he would be false," had thus deceived them. On the 14th of September, 1587, they made Cape San Lucas, and on this station, keeping sight of the Cape, they continued to cruise till the 4th of November. On the morning of tliat day, between seven and eight o'clock, a strange sail was descried from the mast-head, standing in for the Cape. Chase was immediately given by the English, and this proved to be their expected prey. In the afternoon they got close up to the chase, and commenced an attack with cannon and musketry. The Spaniards defended their ship with courage, and the engagement was of long continuance. In the action, which is said to have lasted five or six hours, the Enghsh attempted to take the Spanish ship by boarding ; but in this they wei'e unsuccessful, owing to her being fitted with close quarters,* and they were driven back with the loss of two men killed, and five wounded. The fight was afterwards carried on with guns. At length the Spaniards submitted, and the English took possession of their prize, which did not disappoint their expectations. In the action, the English lost no more than the two already mentioned. Of the Spaniards twelve were killed, and many wounded. The captured ship was of seven hundred tons burthen, com- manded by Tomas de Alzola, her name was the Santa Ana, and she belonged to the king of Spain, having treasure on board, in specie, to the amount of 122,000 pesos of gold (£45,000) besides a * Close quarters are strong wooden barricades, or partitions, wlaich are fixed across a ship, generally under the quarter-deck and forecastle, and form good places of retreat when a ship is boarded by an enemy. They are fitted with loop-holes for musketry. CHAPTER IX. 145 valuable carg'o of satins, silk, musk, and various merchandise of tlie East Indies. They took about forty tons of the merchandise, and the remainder, about five hundred tons, they burnt in the ship, after having- landed the crew, who, however, on the departure of the English, found means to embark on the remains of the bottom of their vessel, and to reach New Spain. On reaching' California, Cavendish lost his remaining- consort, the smallest of his vessels having- been previously destroyed. In his own ship, the Desire, he proceeded on his voj^ag-e, touching at St. Helena, and arrived at Plymouth, September 19th, 1588, two years and fifty days after his departure from that place. This is g-enerally reckoned the second circumnavig-ation of the g-lobe, which is correct, with regard to the ship in which Cavendish saUed; and she performed the voyage in less time than her predecessor. His enterprise had the advantag-e over the previous one of the Enghsh in the Pacific, that it was legally authorised ; and in the conduct of it, though the commander was sometimes deficient in prudence and vigilance, his activity and courage are conspicuous, and his success has established the reputation of his undertaking. But the picture has its dark side. The acts of waste and outrage wantonly committed by him, without the slightest sign of remorse, show a rooted hatred against the Spaniards, and a ferocious and cruel disposition. On his retm-n to England, he addressed a letter to Lord Hunsdon, then lord chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth, in which he boasts, " I navigated along the coast of Chili, Peru, and Nueva Espana, where I made great spoiles. I burnt and sunlc nineteen sailes of ships, small and g-reat. All the villages and towns that ever I landed at, I burnt and spoiled." In a geographical point of view, Httle was gained by this voyage, almost the only chscovery being the harbour called " Port Desire," on the eastern coast of Patagonia ; but the notes made by Thomas Fidler, of Ipswich, during the expedition, no doubt conveyed some useftil information to the navigators of that time. They consist of a hst of the latitudes of various capes, bays, and other parts of the coast, seen during the voyage; some account of the soundings, with the bearings and distances of different points of land from each other. 146 A SEASON AT HARWICH. Cavendish, having- very soon dissipated the wealth acquired during- his first voyage, undertook a second, in 1591, with five vessels. Having* lingered too long- on the coast of Brazil, he did not arrive at the Strait of Magellan till April ; he then encountered adverse winds, and a severe winter, and having- remained there during a month, he became so much dispirited, that he resolved to return home, but died on the passage. Captain John Davis, who commanded one of liis vessels, more sanguine than his general, determined to part from him, and pursue the orig-inal design of the voyage; and shortly after this separation, he discovered the islands now called the Falkland Isles. After leaving the Trimleys, the carriage was ordered back on the Walton road, as far as the branch which turns off to Lower Walton, the Doctor having directed that the wherry should be in waiting at Walton Ferry ; and on leaving the carriage, the party was con- veyed across the bay to Harwich, whence they returned on foot to Dovercourt, more than ever pleased with the country and their giiide. On arriving at the residence of Dr. Bremmer, they found that during- their absence an invitation had been received from an intimate fi'iend of the Doctor, residing- at Ipswich, to spend a day or two in that town. A favourable answer having been returned, it was determined that Walter and the ladies should be rowed from the Naval Yard to Shotley Ferry, and proceed thence by the road to their destination, a conveyance for that purpose having been ordered to be in readiness; " and I myself," said Dr. Bremmer, "will accom- pany Mr. Benson and the young gentlemen, by the River Queen steam-boat that plies on the Orwell. And," continued he, address- ing himself to Walter, "on our arrival at Ipswich, we shall be able to compare notes, and thus exchange accoimts of our journey. I will, before we separate, give you full directions toucliing the places of interest on yoiu' route." The worthy physician remarked, that though Elizabeth was wonderfully improved in health since she had left London, it would not be advisable to expose her to the hazard of a relapse, by too frequent excursions on the water. In answer to a question put by Mr. Benson, his entertainer said. CHAPTER IX. 147 that Shotley Ferry House was situate near the point at wliicli the two mag'niiicent rivers meet and roll then- united streams before Harwich into the German Ocean. The poet Drayton thus describes the meeting of the waters — " For Onvell coming in from Ips\vich, thinkcs that shcc Should stand it for the Stour, and lastly they agree, That since the Britons hence their first discoveries made, And that into the East they first were taught to trade, Besides of all the roads and havens of the East, This harbour -where they meet is reckoned for the best." The road between Shotley and Ipswich, a distance of ten miles, abounds with objects of interest and affords occasionally fine views of the river Orwell, peeping" between the oaks and other splendid trees which skirt the hig-h road. In the evening", the Doctor was reminded by Mr. Benson of liis promise, to give some account of the antiquities of Harwich, which could not fail to gratify the curiosity of his companions. The good Doctor, acknowledging the comphment, said he shoidd derive the gi-eatest pleasure in complying with theii* request j he, therefore, proceeded to say — " The name of Harwich is generally supposed to be derived from the Anglo-Saxon words Here — an army, and wic — a castle, or fortified place, or encampment j which would lead us to suppose that the Saxons had an army here to oppose any attempted invasion of their territory ; and so also had the Romans ; for the above explanation may apply either to an invading or defending army. The precise time when the first towers, walls, and gates were built cannot be ascertained. The term borough, or hiirgh, signifies a fortified place, or keep, or tower; and hcrgeasses, or burgesses, the inhabitants of those buildings so fortified, who received that denomination, in former times, on account of their common interest to defend themselves and their habitations. The chief entrance into the town upon the isthmus, was by a gate, through a ravelin, erected in Taylor's time, over a drawbridge, at the south end, near to the site on which stands the upper hght-house." "Then I presume," said Walter, "the south side was fiu-ther protected by a moat." 148 A SEASON AT HAUWICII, " It was so/' replied tlie Doctor, " as well as the g-reater portion of the east and west sides. Now, having- supplied you with some data, I think I shall be enabled to make you acquainted with the situations of the several posterns, the outer wall, castle, &c. Upon entering" the principal g'ate, to the lig'ht, and eastwards, first appeared the great bastion, formerly called the Queen's Bulwark, or Battery, and by some, the Mount, or Mound. This," continued the Doctor, "was raised to her honour, by the townsmen, in 1553, the first year of Queen Mary's reign, ; and this work, it has been surmised, was strengthened by order of Queen Elizabeth, during- the war with Spain. But, that this structure was first built in Mary's time, appears evident from an entry in a great MS deposited in the chiu'ch chest. WhUst at Framlingham Castle, in Suffolk, she issued her orders to the garrison of Landguard Fort to supply this town with ordnance. Attached to tliis bastion, was an ancient tower, or turret, which constituted the south-east angle of the old wall of the town, from which, keeping it on your right, at a short distance stood several alms' -houses ; and near to these was another ancient entrance, called St. Helen's Port. Dale supposed these alms'-houses were originally some religious building, dedicated to St. Helen, because the street leading- from this gate to the south- side of the church, was called St. Helen's Street, and the Green, upon which it stood, St. Helen's Green. They were, he adds, included within the limits of the fortification, designed, in Queen Anne's time, for the better security of the town ; and then it was that government purchased the old buildings, the proceeds of which, with the addition of some benefactions, were employed towards the erection of a more commodious and larger building near to the sea. To this house four alms'-houses were attached, and the whole erection afterwards formed part of the workhouse, which has since, as at the present day, served the purposes of a brewery. Near to this, formerly stood a tower attached to the wall, which was taken down in 1600, for the convenience of a passage, as the curtain affixed to the outworks ranged too near. Taking- the direc- tion of St. Helen's Street, you would arrive at the south side of St. Nicholas's Chapel, before described. Passing the chancel end, in continuation of our ideal perambulation, adjoining the north side CHAPTER IX. 149 of the grave-yard, formerly stood the Admii-alty House, where were held the admiralty courts ; and in the immediate neig-hhour- hood of this building-, was a small outlet, with a low door, which, according- to some authorities, was called ' St. Nicholas his Postern.' In proximity to it, farther out, on what was called ' the Waste,' stood a platform, upon a demi-bastion, contig-uous to the south end of the present rampart. Next to this, was what was known as Barton's, or Water Gate, in Taylor's time called the East Gate. Before this, on the outside, stood the cage and pillory, on the site now occupied by the jetty. Contimiing- our line of wall, you would arrive at a covered way that afforded shelter from the rain, called the Exchange. This, in Dale's time, was taken dovni and rebuilt facing- the sea, and on it was placed a sun-dial, adorned with appropriate scriptural legends, having underneath the following names: — 'Captain Maddeson Hunt, mayor j and Mr. Thomas Osborn, chamberlain.' In the centre of what is now the Royal Naval Yard, stood a small arched gate, known as St. Austin's Gate j and this was nearly opposite to the ancient palace belonging- to the Earls of Norfolk, but, perhaps, erected after the decay of this sumptuous edifice ; as my authorities describe it as not large enough to aflFord passage for a coach or cart. Yet some might, on account of its naiTOwness, assert that this was a proof of its having existed prior to the palace, as four-Avheeled vehicles, if ever, were rarely used, either for pleasure or traffic, at least in towTis. The next gate in the old wall, beyond this, again, in the du-ection of the Orwell, and very near to the spot where now stands the curious old crane, in the Ship Yard, Avas called the Castle Port, whence, to the north-east angle of what has since been known as the Ness, trended the town wall to the Castle. The foundations of this last edifice were discernible during a remarkably low ebb-tide, in 178-4, nearly as far out as the shoal called ' the Gristle.' The accounts that come down to us are so very meagre, that but little is known of the actual extent, orig-in, or character of the building, more than that it contained the town prison and guildhall, and that within its precincts was included a parish, consisting- of a range of houses and chiu-ch; we cannot, from this information, therefore, assume it to have been of any great extent. It oceupieil a most commanding position, including 150 A SEASON AT HARWICH. in panoramic view, a considerable expanse of tlie Orwell, the Stoiir, and the entrance to the present harbour ; but more especially that which was supposed to have formerly been its mouth when the Stour and Orwell ran to the north of Landg'uard Fort. Fur- ther out, were anciently several block-houses, mounted with g'uns, for the security of the north-west side of the town 5 but, long- since, every vestig-e has been swept away. Along the shore, westward, now the Custom-House Quay, was a landing-place, that in Taylor's time was called the ' Cock and Pye Stairs,' from such a sig-n being in its neighbourhood. Above these, again, was another flig'ht of stairs, heretofore known as 'Lambard's,' and sometimes ' Evans' Stairs.' Althoug-h it is difficult, at the present day, to trace any remains of the old wall, Taylor supplies us with sufficient evidence to prove that a wall did formerly exist on tliis side of the town, which neither any old map that I have seen, nor any account that I have met with, furnishes. But, to con- tinue — near the last-mentioned stairs, till very recently stood a house, known as the Government house ; it was formerly called the King's house, and belonged to the navy, and latterly to the clerk of the cheque : this was at the end of High Street, a con- tinuation of Church Street. The turning in the direction of the jetty, and separating- Church fi-om High Street, is the site where the old market was held ; but, as observes Taylor, ' not very convenient for the pin'pose, on account of its narrowness.' The next street, running parallel with Church Street, is West Street, which has been known by that name for centuries. Beyond this street, on the west side of the town, we find there existed a wall of similar construction to that which we have just described, as appears from two old MS. maps of Harwich, now in the British Museum. In this wall possibly existed the ports or g-ates, the names of which have been recorded ; but their positive sites have long been numbered with the things that were. These, we learn in the Cista Ecck-sice, were called ' Savers,' ' Saulve Gate,' ' Burham's Gate,' ' Tilney's Gate,' &c. We have now, in imag-ina- tion, completed the circuit of the town, and will return to the top of West Street, where we commenced our perambulation. But," said the Doctor, " to convey to you, correctly, the aspect of the town, in CHAPTER IX. 151 Dale's time, I will eng-ag-e your attention upon an old print which was reduced and published in Dale's History of Harwich. It is highly interesting' as a specimen of the art of engTaving- in our author's day ; besides being- very g-raphic in its outUne, it is pic- turesquely quaint." Accordingly, the g-ood Doctor produced a large impression, a fac-simile of which, engraved on wood, is here given ; and is a most creditable specimen of the improvement of this branch of art in our own day. /\ FACSIMILE OF AN OLD PRINT— BEING A VIEW OF HARWICH. A. The Gate, with the greater Light-House over it. B. The Town-Hall. C. The CTiapple of St. Nicholas. D. Store-Houses to the Rope Walke. E. Shotley, in Sutfolk. F. The Road to London. G. Part of the Marsh. H. The Rope-Walke and way to the Cliff. After the party had inspected the print, and warmly expressed their obligations to Dr. Bremmer for his unabated anxiety in selecting subjects for their amusement, the conversation closed for the evening-. 152 A SEASON AT HARWICH. CHAPTER X. THE ORWELL RIVER — AND EXCURSIONS TO IPSWICH BY LAND AND WATER. 'HE next morning-, in pursuance of the arrang-e- ment made on the day previous, all the party were prepared to partake of the enjoyments awakened by the anticipation of fresh scenes. Full of expectancy, they took their accustomed walk to the beach to salute the morning- sun as he arose from his couch, and to inhale the sea breeze, fresh from the south. Upon their return, the Doctor proposed, that previous to setting- out on their projected excursion, he should conduct them to the alms'-houses (of which he had made mention in his sketch of the antiquities of Harwich) in proximity to which had stood St. Helen's Gate. He also proposed a visit to the National Schools, which were built by the corporation, in 1813, at a cost of £800, for the accommodation of about one hundred boys and sixty girls. His g-uests, cordially assenting' to this arrangement, were soon on theu' way. Passing- by the g-overnment estabHshment, throug-h a turn-stile, they quickly arrived at the schools, and were well pleased with the eagerness the children betrayed in exhibiting- their little stock of learning-. Near the schools, the Doctor pointed out the alms'-houses of former days ; on passing these, they shortly after- wards heard the puffing steamer, waiting for its human cargo. Our party, dividing themselves according to previous arrangement, one section taking- their passage by it, up the Orwell, the other crossing to Shotley Ferry, by boat, were soon on then- journey. For the present, let us accompany the Doctor up the Orwell. The river is tortuous, as if nature had designed to produce an ever-chang-ing panorama. At one time it assumes the appearance of an inland sea, environed by stately trees; turning another point, CHAPTER X. 153 it is seen wending- its way for a considerable distance ; and near the place of starting-, looking up the valley of the Stour, the view is so extensive, that the town of Stoke-hy-Nayland is distinctly visible, thoug-h it is distant not less than twenty miles, the foreground being at the same time full of life and interest. After a short time they arrived at Levington Creek, on their right, or on the left bank of the river, and near to which the Doctor pointed out Levington Hall. " This seat," said he, " was built rather more than twenty years ago, for Major Walker." " Although," observed Mr. Benson, " its situation appears to be delightful, and the mansion commodious, the fact of its standing on an eminence, in which it has the appearance of being sunk, causes a defect prejudicial to its dignity, and destructive to the charm and character it would otherwise possess." " Your observation, Mr. Benson," replied the Doctor, " is quite in accordance with the opinions that men of acknowledged taste have advanced. The defect you deplore is now likely to be soon remedied. The estate has been recently purchased by the Lord Alfi'ed Paget (a son of the Marquis of Anglesey), one of the mem- bers for Lichfield, and attached to her Majesty's household. This nobleman, I have been informed, has already expressed his intention of making the required improvement; when, fi-om its elevated position, commanding many fine and extensive \"iews, not only of the Orwell and its banks, but of Landguard Fort, Harwich, and the German Ocean, it will become a noble and princely residence." The boat had now arrived off an inlet on the right hand of the river, where there was a very interesting looking cluster of cottages, inhabited by fishermen; and, if report speaks truth, the httle pubhc-house, called the " Butt and Oysters," has been often honoured with sundry comments in the songs and stories of the once daring smuggler, in which he descanted ou his " hair-breadth escapes," over liis pipe and bottle. The Doctor informed Mr. Benson, that this place was the extreme limit, in this direction, of the Harwich District of the Coast Guard Station. Opposite to Pin Mill, the Doctor pointed out Broke Hall, the approach to which is by a noble and wide-spreading avenue of 154 A SEASON AT HARWICH. limes, and did not fail to mention, that Captain, subsequently Admiral, Sii' Pliilip Broke, Bart., after his gallant action with the American frigate, the Cliesapealw (he commanding- the Shannon, also a li'ig-ate), resided at this delig-htfid place, beloved, honoured, and respected. The battle took place off Boston Lighthouse, in Massachusetts, on the 1st of June, 1813, and lasted but a qnarter of an hour; at the expiration of which, the commander of the Chesapealie having been killed, his vessel struck to the Shannon whose gallant captain suffered for some time after, from the effects of a wound he had received in this most brilliant and well-contested engagement. Adjoining Sir Phihp Broke's domain, is Orwell Park. The young- gentlemen were in ecstasies with the appearance of this seat, and admired, beyond all bounds, the beautiful herds of deer seen browsing amid its sylvan glades. The Doctor informed them, that this was formerly the seat of another of England's gallant sons, namely, the famous Admiral Vernon. Descended from a Stafford- shire family, but box^n in the city of Westminster, in 1684, he, in early life, adopted the naval profession, in opposition to the will of his father, who was then Secretary of State. He rose by degrees to the first rank in the service, and was returned a member for Ipswich, in the years 1741, 1747, and 1754, but having spoken warmly in parliament of the apathy of members in not attending to the complaints of the British merchants, who had been ill-used by the Spaniards, in 1739, he was sent with a squadron against Porto Bello, wliich he took, and desti'oyed the fortifications ; but was not so successful in an expedition against Carthagena. Con- tinuing his opposition to ministers, he was superseded, struck oft" the list of admirals, and died in 1757. Amiable in private life, a good seaman, and as remarkable for his humanity as his courage, his name will be handed down with renown as long as great naval achievements are held in estimation by his countrymen. The last of his family was married to the late Sir Robert Ilarlanil, Bart., whose name also has been celebrated in the pages of naval history. He resided here for some time, indulging in his passion like a true son of Neptune, by frequent excursions in his fine yachts, which, some few years back, might have been seen riding at anchor in the mid- CHAPTER X. 105 Stream of the river. Sir Robert sold the paternal seat to Georg-e Tomline, Esq., formerly one of the members for Slu-ewsbiiry, and now vice-commodore of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club, who is the present proprietor. Turning" to the opposite side, Wolverston Pai'k, the seat of Arch- deacon Bernei-s, presented itself, whose woodland shades were further enhvened by the deer that were to be seen sporting- in its park, the green verdure of which reached down to the very water's edg-e. In this park, which extends over an area of five hundred acres, stands the splendid mansion of the proprietor ; it is built of Woolpit brick, and was erected by William Berners, Esq., in 177 G. This g-entleman was the proprietor of the street in London bearing- his name. Camden, speaking- of this park, says that it is certainly the finest spot in the eastern part of England. In the year 1720, it was in the hands of John Tysson, Esq., on whose bankruptcy, the estate became the subject of a long- suit in Chancery, terminated by a decree of the conrt ordering- it to be sold, when it was purchased by the grandfather of the present owTier. The mansion is a handsome building ; the centre of the principal front being- adorned with a pediment, supported by four Ionic columns, and connected with the wings on either side by an elegant colonnade. The large window, looking towards the water, commands a fine view of the river and opposite shore. The interior well sustains the taste displayed in its external appearance — the ceiling-s being- adorned with paintings, and the walls of the apartments hung with some valuable pictures. The stables, which are detached from the house, stand on the site of the former mansion. Near Wolverston House is an interesting- memorial of fihal affection — tm obelisk, built of free-stone, ninety-six feet high — erected, as the Latin insci-iption records, " to the memory of the best of fathers, b}^ Charles Berners, Esq.," whose son is the present proprietor. In the interior of this monument is a geometric staircase, leading- to the summit, surmounted by a glolj^ encii'cled with rays carved in intaglio. Pursuing- their voyage, they arrived before Priory Farm. "This," observed the Doctor, "is remarkable on account of a vai'iety of circumstances. It nppcars formerly to have been a Priory. 156 A SEASON AT HARWICH, surrounded by a moat, part of which still exists. Crossing- tlii.<; you are conducted to one of the most beautiful lanes, for picturesque effect, that I have ever beheld. Walter should see this ; and when he is informed that it is called ' Gainsboroug-h's Lane/ from the fact of that eminent painter having- selected it for subjects for his celebrated picture of ' The Market Cart,' noAv in the National Gallery, there will be Httle difficidty in inducing- him to study nature here for a short time. But to revert. In this house, that remarkable girl, Margaret Catchpole, resided for some time, in the capacity of a servant. Her whole career was so extraordinary, that I would recommend you by all means to peruse her memoirs, compiled, in a vei-y pleasing- mamier, by the Rev. Richard Cobljold. This girl, it appears, was gifted with a powerful mind. Unfortunately for her peace, she, in early life, placed her affections upon a young man who eventually turned out a very worthless character; yet such was the influence he gained over her, that she frequently exposed herself to imminent dangers, and engaged in adventures the most daring, on his account, and which, for a time, shrouded the noble sentiments and finer feeHngs that characterised the latter years of her life. She first became the subject of no ordinary degree of ciu'iosity by taking a horse from her master's stable, equipping herself as a groom, and riding to London in an incredibly short space of time. There she sold the horse — deceiving the most knowing jockies; but being- hotly pursued, was taken by those who knew her personally, tried for horse-steahng, and condemned; but this sentence was mitigated to two years' imprisonment. She had pre- viously made an appointment to meet her lover on the lapse of a certain time, which fell within the limits of her period of confine- ment. Resolved to keep her tryst, she to the amazement of every one, actually made her escajje from the borough jail ; but was shortly afterwards retaken, and her lover, in liis attempts to aid her escape, was killed. A second time she was tried and condemned to death, but had her sentence commuted, on this occasion, to transportation for life. Being conveyed to one of our penal settlements, she there married respectably, and became a most exemplary character. CHAPTER X. 107 The Doctor now pointed to the summit of an object towering- above the g-reen foliage so plentifully adorning- the banks of this charming river, and immediately the attention of all was directed towards it. " My friends," said he, '' that is Freston Tower. I had pm'posed giving you my own poor version of the history of this building*, which might, perhaps, in some degTee have interested you ; but I find the work so much better done to my hands in that most interesting book, called Freston Tower; or the early days of Cardinal Wblsey, written by the reverend gentleman of whom I have just been speaking, while reciting some of the adven- tures of Margaret Catchpole, that I cannot do bettei' than read a few extracts from it ; and you will be of my opinion that the reverend author, in attempting- to write prose, is so highly gifted that neai-ly every sentence has a poetic turn, as you must acknowledge, Avhen I give you his description of this classic building." Doctor Bremmer forthwith drew from his pocket one of the Quarterlies, and read the following quotation : — " Upon the banks of the beautiful river Orwell has stood for centuries, and still stands, Freston Tower. Every sailor belonging to the port of Ipswich knows it well : everj' traveller in the county of Suffolk, who has any love for the tranquil in nature, must have noticed, if he has sailed from Ipswich to HarAvich, this picturesque object towering above the trees, and lookmg upon the widest expanse of water which the river scene aifords." " The reviewer's remarks," said the good Doctor, " wUl also prove interesting, as affording- some incidents in the early hfe of Cardinal Wolsey, of whom I shall speak hereafter : — • Thomas "Wolsey is first presented to Mr. Cobbold's readers as a youth proceeding to the scat of Lord Do Freston, in the neighbourhood of Ipswich, then called Gypcsswick, to return an Alduie Iliad which that nobleman had lent him. This Lord De Freston is described as a learned and elegant scholar, whose life had been devoted to study from his youth : he had married the niece of the wealthiest commoner in the land, and married her not for her property, since he was liimsclf the oA^-ncr of vast estates on the banks of the Orwell as well as in the vale of Worcester. Lord Do Freston's bride was the niece of Edmund Daundy, M.P., for Ipswich, and the most extensive merchant m that port. This lady died six years after her union with Lord De Freston, leaving him a widower with one daughter about the same age as yoimg Thomas Wolsey, her cousin on the mother's side. Lord De Freston never married again, but devoted himself cntii-cly to the education of tliis fair daughter. Thomas Wolsey shared in Ellen Freston's studies, and of 158 A SEASON AT HARWICH. course falls in love with her — an event which, though of such constant as to seem to be of inevitable occurrence, always comes by surprise upon the parents or guardians of each successive pair of fellow pupils. " WTio would have thought it ! " is the exclamation, as soon as the ignition of the young hearts is discovered ; just as if the conflagration of combustible materials was in anywise a subject for amazement : — ' " Such was the delight Wolsey took in Ellen's society, and such her pure pleasure in his, that, distant relatives as they were, Lord De Freston looked upon them as brother and sister ; and neither he nor his daughter had the slightest idea of their young friend ever imbibing any deeper feeling than the love of literature and the joy of sharing its pleasures." ' Wolsey, on his arrival at Lord De Freston' s mansion, finds, together with his noble host and his daughter, a visitor in the person of one William Lati- mer, some five years his senior, a scholar of Oxford, and relative of Hugh Latimer the martyr. The usual introduction takes place : the Oxford youth and the Ipswich boy conceive a mutual respect for each other ; and they repair, in company with Ellen, to a tower in Lord de Freston's domain, of which Latimer had been the architect, and which was designed as a study for the young lady. Avery admirable study it was, to judge from Mr. Cobbold's descriiJtion : — ' " FRESTOX TOWER. ' "The tower still stands, apparently in the pride of beauty, looking over the waves of the Orwell ; and the author has ascended to its summit and indulged, years long gone by, in thoughts which now find their way into these pages. Freston Tower was first designed by William Latimer, whence it was for many years called Latimer's Tower. Its construction arose from an accidental conversation between De Freston and Latimer two years before the present party who now stood before it were assembled. The latter had seen the imcommon genius and application of Ellen to study, and had remarked to her father that, if her studies were not diversified, she would lose the sprightliness and vivacity of youth, and forget quickly what she had learned with difiiculty. The way to retain anything is to let an impression of it remain upon the brain. Overstrained toil does but enfeeble the body, as overstained application to any mental pursuit will assuredly one day create disgust. Therefore, I say, continued Latimer, diversify the occupation of your daughter's time and mind, and body and soul will be benefitted. ' " Ah ! replied De Freston, the theory is good, but how is it to be done? ' " Simply thus, replied Latimer — I would build a tower in the livehest spot of my domain : every room of that tower should command an extensive Aiew of the beautiful scenery around me, and I would dedicate each to a difierent occupation. Each should claim a separate hour for the work to be performed, and the higher story should possess the greatest charm ; so that neither the hands nor the head of my child should be weary." ' It was agreed that the young man should write down his plan and submit CHAPTER X. 109 it to Dc Froston and Ellen on the following clay. This he did in a copy of verses -which may be found in Mr. Cobbold's pages. We however resume Mr. Cobbold's prose narrative : — ' " The site was fixed upon by Lord De Freston and his daughter, and Latimer promised to make plans of the dimensions of the rooms and drawings of the elevation. How beautifully the works were completed even the lapse of so many centuries has not failed to prove. Workmen were soon engaged. Daundy's ships brought the Caen stone for ornamental copings, and the bricks from Ipswich were soon laid, and a tower according in every respect with the plan of the projector, was erected. It was before this building that the party then stood, and not until the previous day had Latimer beheld his fair project carried mto execution. He had from time to time i-isited the work, and had corresponded with Lord De Freston and his cousin Ellen con- cerning its completion. This, however, was his first visit since the graceful tower had been opened and dedicated to the purpose for which it had been projected. Ellen had, indeed, occupied the different rooms as dedicated to her pursuits : — ♦ " The lower room to charity, from seven to eight o'clock. The basement story on the ground Should be with benches fitted roimd, And wide the porch and door ; That here my daughter every morn Should know the wants of the lowly-born. And listen to the poor. The second to working tapestry from nine to ten ; The third to music from ten to noon ; The fourth to painting from twelve to one ; The fifth to literature fi-om one to two ; The sixth to astronomy at even. ' " There was a turret fi-om this last chamber upon wliich the only instru- ment then used in descrying and describing the stars was often fixed, Avhen the evenings were such as w-ould allow an observation from the leads, of the illumed sky." •The conversation which ensued in this enviable lady's bower was animated, and young Wolsoy's liberal opinions surprise Ms auditors. De Freston and Latimer are represented by Mr. Cobbold as entertaining the enlightened views of that awalicning period when men began to look into the Scriptures for truth, and into their souls for worsliip : — * " Oh ! when will peace, exclaimed Wolsey, heal the divisions of this Christian land ? In nothing will this comitry be more divided than in its ideas of the profession of Christianity. ' " This led to such an a:iimatcd conversation upon the eiTors and absurdi- ties of the times, the almost absolute dominion of the Pope, and the terrors of the Inquisition, that had information been given to the authorities of St. ICO A SEASON AT HARWICH. Peter's Priory all present might have incurred the penalties of heresy and conspiracy," ' "The story g-oes on to tell," continued tlie Doctor, "tliat tlie castle, being' set fire to by an incendiary, was burned to the ground, the tower alone escaping* the conflagration, while the worthy noble- man its owner was assassinated. Soon after this event, the tower was sold to one Ralph Goodyng-e, or Gooding', of Ipswich, who, shortly after the purchase, in conjunction with Mr, Sparrowe, repre- sented that boroug'h in parliament. It was owing- to his care and liberality that the tower remained ; and, in his day it became a kind of privilege enjoyed by the citizens of Ipswich, to make it the scene of their marriage trips. The wonder is, that it ever lost this celebrity; 'but,' says the talented author from whom I quote, ' whether it was that, in lapse of years, the park became arable land, and lost the traces of hereditary grandeur, or that other pos- sessors succeeded, who did not encourage this right of the free bur- gesses and their espousals, the old distich was forgotten which said, " No burgess on his wedding day, Which falls in Avhitethorn merry May, Shall happy be, in house or bower. Who does not visit Preston Tower." ' and then concludes his well-written pages with this sentence — ' Freston Tower passed from the hands of the Goodynges, to the Wrights, then to the Thurstons, Tarvers, Formereaws, and others. It is now in the possession of Archdeacon Berners, of Wolverstone Park, on the banks of the Orwell.' " The Doctor had scarcely finished reading these highly interesting- extracts when Wherstead appeared in sight, where, at the Lodge, is the residence of the Harland family. It is a handsome modern building, in a delightful situation. For some years its proprietor. Sir Robert Harland, Bart., resided at Orwell Park, and during that time the Lodge was tenanted, in turn, by many noble families ; but the baronet having sold that estate to George Tomhne, Esq., as before stated, returned to Wherstead, where he died some few years ago. The house was rebuilt in 1794, and contains many noble rooms, fitted up with great taste, and adorned with a fine collection of pictures, by the first masters. The magnificent staircase will CHAPTER X. IGl also well reward an inspection. The park is finely wooded ; it commands beautiful views of the river, and of the town of Ipswich. Wherstead Church stands on the brow of a hill, environed with woods, the summit of its tower serving- as another landmark for navigating' the Orwell. Bourne Bridge, which crosses a branch of the Orwell on the road to Manning-tree, was the next object of attraction. There is reason to suppose that the river formerly ran further inland than it does at present, as we find that the bridge, which is of very ancient construc- tion, is much larger than the existing- state of the water renders necessary. In the reign of Edward III. the bridge was already built, as mention is made of it in the perambulation of Ipswich, in 1351 ; and in the nineteenth year of Elizabeth, there was an order of the Great Court for a large sum to be expended in its reparation. On approaohing the town of Ipswich, they observed the two dock-3'ards, called Halifax and Nova Scotia, and were informed by the Doctor, that several large Indiamen had been launched from the former estabHshment, which owed its rise and progress entirely to the exertions of the late Mr. Jabez Bayley, a gentleman of whom it is said, that, in his useful career, he had built more than a hundred sail of vessels. Dr. Bremmer also mentioned, as a sin- gular fact, that not one of the ships built of Suffolk oak had been affected by the dry rot; and, by way of showing- the magnitude of the labours in the construction of a vessel, added, that in the building of the Orwell, East Indiaman, launched here on the 28th of August, 1817, the quantity of selected oak timber used was two thousand loads, with one hundred tons of unwrought iron, and thirty tons of copper. The admeasm'ement of this vessel was 1350 tons. The first patent slip, of a similar construction to that in the Naval Yard, at Harwich, Avas introduced here in the spring of 1826, by the Messrs. Bayley; but as this most usefid contrivance for hauling vessels on terra Jirma, has been already described, it need not be here repeated. The town of Ipswich was now in sight — with its docks, factories, and warehouses ; its forest of masts ; its pleasiu-e walks and grounds, and a whole host of churches, peeping one above T 162 A SEASON AT HARWICH. tlie otlier, all blending harmoniously in one liappy picture — and as tliey approached, seeming- to accommodate itself to the sweep of the river, in the shape of a crescent, terminated by the cast-iron bridge of Stoke, with a single elliptical arch, sixty feet in the span, and rising- to the height of ten j one of the earliest efforts of Wilham Cubitt, an engineer of much celebrity. On arriving at the residence of the Doctor's friend, they found that Walter and the ladies had preceded them; to be accounted for by the time the Doctor's party took in loitering- about the town. On comparing- notes with the Doctor, Walter observed of Erwarton (or Arwerton) Church — " This, the first object of interest that we visited, was a short distance out of the direct road ; but we were amply repaid for our trouble : the building- being- to all of us an object of peculiar interest. Situate in a quiet and retired spot, it exhibits scarcely a trace of human existence. After quitting- our carriag-e, which we directed should stay for us at some little distance, we walked up to the sacred edifice. Per- mission to view the interior being- soon granted, we entered it by a porch on the north side, which had been possibly removed from the south (where there still exist the remains of the original door), for the convenience afforded by the main road that runs parallel with it. The church consists of a nave, aisles, and chancel ; the lower part of the tower might be said to be included in the nave, it being only separated from the latter by an open screen j its original use, that of an entrance, judging from its appearance, having long been discontinued. The pvilpit and reading-desk, the former of oak, is finely carved, and notwithstanding that it has the appearance of being- fresh from the artist's hands, is in excellent keeping and full of the spirit to be observed in the workmanship of the reading-desk, which has been restored from the ancient carvings belonging to the church. The decorated ends of the free seats terminate with highly enriched finials. The original roof still covers the nave and aisles ; and on account of its singularly good state of preservation, may do so for ages to come. The chancel was rebuilt by Archdeacon Berners, in 1838, and is, as well as the rest of the edifice, in the perpendicular style CHAPTER X. 163 of architecture. The font is in g-ood taste, boldly carved in Caen stone, from a specimen in the same order. I felt somewhat at a loss to account for the presence of two very beautiful monu- ments recessed, respectively, in the walls of the north and south aisles. These are indubitably anterior to the date of the erec- tion of the present building-. Probably tliere formerly existed a chapel where now stands the church, and upon the remains of the orig'inal structure, this fine building arose ; its founder, at the same time, causing' these interesting' mementos of a former period to be restored. Be this as it may, I was particularly struck with their present appearance ; both have canopies, and are further enriched with delicate tracery, in the pure decorated style, having crockets and finials to the cone-eries of mouldino-s that form the tables. The tomb on the north side, which in height is about three feet six inches, has a recumbent figure of a lady abbess; but who she was, I had no means of ascertaining. On the other monu- ment are two recumbent figTii-es — one represents, seemingly, a knight, clad in complete armour, being the effigy of Bartholomew Danviliers (altered in later times to D'Avilers) ; the other of his lady, dressed in a tunic, with her feet resting on a small dog-. The pedestal to this monument is divided into fine square sinkings, each with a quatrefoil supporting shields emblazoned with the arms of the family." Dr. Bremmer confirmed the date of the monuments by observing, that Bartholomew Danviliers was the lord paramount at Arwerton, in the early part of the fourteenth century, and the property passed from him to Sir Robert Bacon, by marriage, in or about the year 1330. The latter personage obtained for this place a grant for a market and fair, in 1345. It descended afterwards to the Cal- thorpes ; next was purchased by Sir Philip Parker, and is now the property of Archdeacon Berners. Walter, continuing his remarks upon the church, said, " we found the exterior equally interesting with the interior. The tower has a venerable appearance ; and the remains of what was formerly a very beautiful doorway, now rapidly decaying, will still convey greater charms to a mind capable of supplying all that time, or the still more ruthless hand of man, has destroyed. We remarked, for 164 A SEASON AT IIAUWICII. instance, tlio fresli appearance of the noi'tli poi-cli, wliicli, Laving' been restored, looked quite newj but, altboug-b very carefully executed, it failed to interest so much as the ancient portions bad done. The edges appeared to me to be too sharp and crude, as if there were wanting- a general medium to sober down and harmonise its proportions," This criticism might have continued much longer, had not the Doctor diverted the theme by alluding to the incumbent, and speaking of his urbanity and good taste. " The latter quality," said he, " is more especially shown in the laying out and adornment of his grounds ; and the former in his ever-ready courtesy in allow- ing strangers and bis neighbours immediate access to them. The next striking object that must have attracted your attention was the Hall. What was your opinion of that, my young friend ? " " I venerate these ancient residences, generally," replied Walter. " This, under notice, retains many vestiges of its former grandeur. Upon passing through the entrance gateway, we came to what exists of the old buildings, now occupied by a farmer, who very kindly led us to the great staircase, which is very massively constructed. Tlae house is spacious and still exhibits traces of paintings on its walls. We observed, on one of the stained-glass windows, the date ' 1575,' confirming the period of its design, which is clearly a pure specimen of the early Elizabethan. It has been built of red kiln-burnt bricks, with stone dressings to the windows, doors, and enrichments. The gardens are yet very delightful ; and the grounds before the park possess features truly ma,jestic. On either side of the building is a long line of stately limes, each tree being a little forest in itself, for it appears that some years since, each had been topped to within about thirty feet of the gi-ound, from whence now spring four complete trees, which regenerate the old trunk, and are severally as complete as if they had started up individually from the earth. This stately array continues to the entrance gate, a considerable distance, where it is broken by the intersection of the road, and then extends over what appears an interminable space. We resumed our journey after the above cursory glance of this fine old residence, and in a short time arrived at Chelmondistone, a neat little village by the road-side, Avith a few scattered houses CHAPTER X. IGo running' clown to Pin Mill on the marg-in of the Orwell. Here we inspected the ancient parish church of St. Andrew, the Rev. 11. Chissold, M.A., rector, and were also much pleased with the newly- built estabhshment for the education of youth, called ' Elmina House/ very ably conducted by Mr. Peter Hill. This parish hke- wise boasts of a Hall." Dr. Bremmer here interposed — " But as the places you passed though, after leaving Chelmondistone, are seen fi'om the river, and embodied in my account, I will spare you the necessity of any fur- ther relation." Elizabeth, at this juncture, mentioning Holy Wells and the Cliif, the Doctor, ever willing- to afford information, said that these interesting objects had escaped his notice ; and to render his account of these charming scenes more complete, he informed his friends that they were both occupied by John Cobbold, Esq., father to the highly-respected member for the borough. Miss Archer inquired whence the former place obtained the epithet of " Holy." Dr. Bremmer replied — " There are some pure and limpid springs to which extraordinary virtues were formerly ascribed ; and the priests of the Catholic Church, with their usual tact, referring the natural benefits derived fi'ora these medicinal springs to a super- natural cause, the place was visited by numerous pilgrims. The talented Mrs. Cobbold, in one of her exquisite poetical effusions, thus embodies the popular belief in the virtues of the Holy Wells. ' For kiiow, if wounded Christian lave His gashes in the blessed wave, They meet no lingering doubtful cui'e, — His life is safe, his healing sure.' The lines which form the concluding portion of the poem from which I have just quoted," added the Doctor, " are so beautiful, that I will, with yoiu- kind permission, ladies, repeat them." Elizabeth and Miss Archer having both expressed a great desire to hear the words alluded to, the Doctor resumed — " And shrine, and church, and holy ground, A bishop's stately palace croAra'd ; But time, with silent, slow decay, Sweeps earthly pride and pomp away. 166 A SEASON AT llAUWICII. Nor church, nor palace, now are knoAVii By massy wall or mouldering stone ; A moated square just marks the site Of mitred state and splendid rite : Yet, pure and bright, the living rill HoUs down the alder-skirted hill ; And fancy loves to linger here, And paint the past in vision clear, As, whisp'ring to the muse, she tells The legend of the Holy Wells." " The cluircli and palace, alluded to by this gifted lady/' said Dr. Bremmer, " are often mentioned in the old records, under the name of Wykes Bishop ; but, as she has observed, there is hardly a vestige remaining- of them." Walter, apologising- for further intruding upon the good nature of tlie Doctor, observed that on their way, near to where the river runs by the side of the road, he had noticed many large vessels lying' at anchor at tliat part which, expanding, seemed more like an inland sea than a river. " You mean Downham Reach," said the Doctor, " where ships of large burthen can ride in safety, even at low water, and where they usually await the return of the flood tide, to enable them to reach the Docks. It was to this part of the river, that on the 5th of November, 1816, a dead whale, wliich had been found off the ^ Rough,' at Harwich, was afterwards towed. The length of this leviathan of the deep was about seventy feet, and the diameter of its body eighteen. Nearly the whole population of Ipswich appears to have assembled on the shore, determined to • Please the eye. At peril of the nose.' " " I suppose," said Elizabeth, " they imagined they might never have another opportunity of seeing an animal of this huge species ; for I presume the occurrence is rare." " True," said the Doctor, " it is a rare, but by no means a singailar occurrence. The industrious Dale mentions several species which had been caught, or cast ashore on this coast ; and even so late as the 14th of August, 1828, one was found on the sands at Harwich, and towed up the Orwell as far as Bourne Bridge ; this measured CHAPTER X. 1G7 thirty-six feet in length, and eighteen in circumference. Its skeleton is in the rooms of the Ipswich Mechanics' Institution." A lively conversation took place after dinner, as to the rank of Ipswich as a port, when Dr. Wilson, the friend of Dr. Bremmer, observed, that Httle more than a century had elapsed since the whole of the carrying- trade in coals, between Newcastle and London was in the hands of the owners of vessels belonging to Ipswich. The vessels employed in this trade were called Ipswich Cats, being" of large tonnage, and standing very high above the water. Dr. Wilson mentioned that he had seen one or two of them in his early days, and described them as wider in proportion than other vessels of equal burthen; their huUs, being of gigantic bulk and painted black, with their dingy crews, gave them a very uninviting and sombre appearance. The masters of these ships were reckoned among the inhabi- tants of the town, since their families constantly resided here ; and the manner in which they Hved showed the trade to be a lucrative one. The quantity usually carried by each vessel was computed at three hundred chaldrons, and the number of voyages made annually varied with the difference of the seasons. In the winter these vessels were laid up, as it was called, that is they were moored in the river, under the advantages of a high woody beach, where they lay as safely as in a wet dock, tlieir masts being struck, and the sails, &c., carried ashore. The decay of this trade has been attributed to a singular cause. It is said that the Dutch fly -boats, taken in the wars with Hol- land, and made fi'ee ships by act of pai-liament, were thrust into the coal trade, for the benefit of the captors, such as London and Yarmouth merchants; and the Ipswich men, discouraged by this competition, gradually abandoned the trade. Ship -building declined in proportion; so that we find, in the space of thirty- five years, the number of vessels belonging to the port, in the coal trade, had dwindled down to forty sail. A celebrated, though anonymous author, with a sagacity that marks all his observations, could not fail to notice the advantages possessed by this port, and predicted that the falhng off in the trade would not ultimately destroy the prosperity of Ipswich, as at this time seemed probable, 168 A SEASON AT HARWICH. but tliat some other source of commerce would arise, to place it even beyond tlie rank and importance it bad then acquired; " until," said he, " the port shall be made as useful to the world, and the town as flourishing-, as nature has made it proper and capable to be." This prediction, continued Dr. Wilson, has been amply fidfiUed. Ipswich, after underg'oing- various vicissitudes, is now in a state of great prosperity, and there seems every reason to believe, that in common with Harwich, it will continue to improve annually. While the shipping- trade has materially increased, a new source of wealth has been opened to the town, by the completion of the line of railway from London, and extending- to Norwich ; by which means, in addi- tion to the facilities afforded for conveying- g-oods into the interior of the country, a direct road is obtained for the London tourist, who, instead of being- compelled, as formerly, to make his annual journey to Ramsg-ate and Marg-ate, can vary the scene at less expense, by visiting- the far-famed banks of the picturesque Orwell, or the enchanting- country in the neig-hbourhood. Fast and well-appointed steamers, ply constantly between London and Ipswich, and many of the passeng-ers, who land at, or otherwise visit, Harwich, will most probably proceed to Ipswich, allured by the beauty of the river scenery, the shortness of the distance, and the accommodation offered by the constant trips of steamers to and from Harwich. Many of the vessels belonging- to the port are eng-ag-ed in the coasting- trade ; others in making- voyag-es to the Baltic, Holland, and Hamburg-h ; while some proceed to the more distant ports of the Mediterranean and America. The corn market is the best in the county; where, as a con- sequence, a vast amount of business is transacted ; it being- com- puted that from sixty to eig'hty thousand quarters of malt are annually sent to London alone from this port. " Are there not," said Mr. Benson, " some customs pecuhar to Ipswich ; particularly those relating- to the law of inheritance ? " Dr. Wilson replied that there were. " In addition to the law of g-avel-kind obtaining here, if a burg'ess take a wife, whether a maid or widow, so that she be his first wife, she has, if she outlive him, the rig-ht to a life interest in all property belong-ing- to her husband. CHAPTER X. 169 within the town, in the name of fi-ee-bench, as long- at least as she remains a widow. And ag-ain, every one, whether male or female, that has lands and tenements in the town, at the age of fourteen years, may give his land or freehold, or sell it, in the same way as if, in any other place, he had attained the full age of twenty-one years. A married woman is personally responsible for any trespass she may commit, as if she were single, so that the trespass be personal, and touch not freehold." The sun had sunk below the western horizon, and the shadows of evening- had now merged into the stillness of night. These chang-es, which at Dovercourt never failed to attract the attention of Doctor Bremmer and his welcome ^ests, were here lost sight of amid the lofty building's of a populous town ; but so interesting- had become their new position, from the associations attached to it by Doctor Wilson, that there appeared no inclination on the part of the juvenile members to seek the benefit of that rest so desirable after the fatigaies of the day ; it w^s late, therefore, ere the pleasing- conver- sation terminated and they sought repose. The interest awakened on the previous evening, was still fresh in the minds of Doctor Wilson's visitors, as appeared from their readi- ness to sally forth early the next morning-, to inspect the various objects worthy of notice in the town. From the well-known fact of its having been the birth-place of the celebrated Cardinal Wolsey, who had here founded a college, the travellers were particularly anxious to see any relic of this great man, (whose early days have been alluded to, in connection Avith Freston Tower;) and were somewhat disappointed on discovering that nothing now remained of the college but the gateway — exhibiting- the usual style of the periorL In the centre, over the entrance, is a square stone, bearing- the arms of Hem-}^ VIII. " From this circumstance," said Doctor Wilson, " it is concluded, and I think reasonably enough, that this was the principal entrance; for the wily Cardinal would hardly have fixed the arms of his royal master over any other ; and, if such be the case, it is certainl}" no very favourable specimen of the architectural character of this once- famous and costly building- : especially when it is considered V 170 A SEASON AT HARWICH. that the g-reatest pnins were lavished on the g-ateways of the impor- tant building's of the period, to g'ive them additional g-randeurj and this was particularly observable in those erected by this osten- tatious prelate." Doctor Bremmer would not suffer the opportunity to pass without a little topogTaphical discussion, and therefore observed that, in his opinion, this never was the principal g'ate, from its being- so low and insignificant ; and that, as to the royal arms, they mig-ht have been placed in various parts of the building-, — perhaps over all the g-ateways. "It is highly improbable that this pitiful arch," as he somewhat disdainfully termed it, to the discomfiture of his learned brother, " could by any means have been the grand entrance to a college occupying- six acres of g-round; for," continued he, " the haug-hty Cardinal must have bowed his head as he entered. Besides, we know, from Wolsey's ovni account, that the old church of St. Peter was taken down to enlarge the site of the intended building ; and we must, therefore, come to the conclusion that the grand doorway was fronting the west." How long this discussion might have lasted, it is impossible to say, had not Miss Archer playfully proposed its adjournment till the evening. The Doctors, taking the hint, now led the way to the house in which the afterwards powerful Cardinal was born. This building stands on the south side of the passage leading from St. Nicholas' church-yard to St. Nicholas' Street : it was formerly inhabited by a Mrs. Edwards, but falling afterwards into the hands of Mr. Vaux, surgeon, it was rebuilt in a modern style ; still some of the walls remain, to attest the massy structure of the build- ing, and its consequent importance. The story of his being a butcher is, no doubt, true to a certain extent, for his father, being- an exten- sive grazier, had probal)ly frerpient occasion to slaughter his own cattle : that he was respectably connected, is certain, being related to Mr. Edward Daundy, one of the principal merchants of the town, which he some time represented; and although Cavendish, the Cardinal's biographer, states that his master was the son of a poor man, he spoke, no doubt, in reference to the immense wealth which was afterwards enjoyed by the son, as a contrast to the limited means of the father. CHAPTER X. 171 In answer to a question from Miss Elizabeth, Doctor Wilson said — "There are, at present, twelve churches in the town; Itut even at so early a period as the Domesday Survey, there were as many as nine; and the number was at one time increased to twenty-one." On visitmg the church of St. Matthew, they were much pleased with the ornamental ai)pearance of the burial-g-round ; looking-, indeed, more like one of the metropolitan cemeteries than anything- seen by them since they had left London. Among- other monuments of departed worth, Doctor Wilson pointed out a tablet com- memorating- the death of Lord Chedworth, a mag-istrate of the county and an extremely eccenti-ic man, Avho by his -will left the sum of £183,000 among- many persons in no way connected with him, or moving- in his sphere of life ; and althoug-h these bequests were disputed, they wei-e held at last to be valid." Doctor Bremmer here observed that Broke Hall, to which he had before directed their attention, was in this parish. In connection with St. Marj'-at-the-Elms, Doctor Wilson related the sing-ular adventures of Jacob Dedham, alias Caulius Jaun. It appears that this man left the parish workhouse with a solitary shil- ling- in his pocket, given him by the churchwarden. By some means he contrived to g-et a passag-e out to India, most probably in the character of a sailor. He was a quiet, inoffensive man, possessing- a quick penetration, and evinced some talent for drawing-. Having- attracted the attention of persons in power, he was taken into the eng-ineering- department ; afterwards, being- employed as a spy, he assumed various disg-uises, and was instrumental in rendering- important services to Lord Cornwallis, who, it is said, was so sensible of the value of his communications, that he had always an intention of rendering- him independent ; but his noble patron dying before Caulius returned to Eng-land, his services were overlooked or for- gotten. After traversing- our eastern possessions in various du-ections and underg'oing- many singadar adventures, he married the widow of a rich East Indian, and lived in the heig-ht of luxury and splendour. Here becoming- thoughtless and improvident, and probably not very correct in his conduct, he was obliged, from some suspicions attached to his character, to fly the country, leaving his wife and 172 A SEASON AT HARWICH. the whole of his wealth behmd him, and considering- himself for- tunate to escape \vith his life. He returned to Eng-land, and after bein^ reduced to the most abject poverty, wretchedness, and disease, once ag'ain arrived at Ipswich, in a state of beg;g*ary and starvation, and was actually found sleeping- one morning' in the church porch of St. Mary-at-the- Elms. From his disg-usting- appearance he was refused admission to the workhouse ; and on being- taken before a magistrate, the account he gave of himself was so mysterious that it did not obtain credit. But from the local knowledge of India possessed by Mr. Bacon, a resident of the town, tins gentleman was fiilly convinced of the truth of the narration, and interested himself warmly in behalf of this singular adventurer. Caulius Jaun was relieved, clothed, and restored to health and comparative comfort, maintain- ing himself decently for some time by his pencil. He was employed by JMr. Bacon to take a view of the town of Ipswich, which is now, with several other drawings of liis, in the possession of the Rev. Richard Cobbold. This view, though evidently not the production of a professional artist, is executed with extraordinary accuracy and precision, is a pleasing picture, and a curious specimen of what may be effected by one who has never been taught the rudiments of the art. After residing- here for some time, his passion for adventure once more revived, and he proceeded to some port, where he engaged to work his passage out to India ; but had scarcely got on board, to take possession of his berth, when he accidentally fell into the hold of the ship, and was killed on the spot. Such was the strange end of the still stranger character — Caulius Jaun, the workhouse wanderer from St. Mary-at-the-Elms ! In the church, two objects only attracted attention; one the inscription over the entrance to the family vault of the Sparrowes, being " JVidus Passerum,'^ — 'Hlie Sparrow's nest," as Charles explained to his sister ; and the other, a testimony to the worth of Dr. Johannes Baptista Uytrecht, the oculist, who was personally known to both Dr. Wilson and Dr. Bremmer. The brief memorial stated, that "it was his greatest pleasure to relieve the afflicted poor, which he always did gratis.'' CHAPTER X. 173 " Peace to his ashes ! " said Dr. Bremmer, " for he was a g'ood man." In the church of St. Lawrence they saw the picture of " Our Saviour discoursing 's\ath the Doctors in the Temple," covering- the whole of the west-end of the building. It was painted by Sir Robert Kerr Porter, and though, as Walter remarked, it had been evidently produced in haste, j^et displa3^ed great strength and bold- ness of design. For forty years the Rev. Richard Canning, M.A., was the incumbent of this parish. This gentleman was the editor of the second edition of Kirby's Suffolk Traveller, and compiler of the Accoimt of the Ipswich Charities. He died June 9th, 1775. The party particularly noticed the newly-erected Corn Exchange, then recently opened, where every attention appeared to have been paid to the convenience and accommodation of traders ; contrasting- curiously with the building which gave way for this beautiful structm'e — at once a proof of the advanced state of architecture, and the increasing commerce of the town. Much amusement was here aiforded by the description Dr. Bremmer gave of the economy studied by those who had the direction of the old building. " A figure of Flora," said he, " which once served to ornament the garden of a gentleman, had, after some years service in this capacity, been invested with the sword and scales of Justice, and thus promoted, took its place on the top of the Market Cross. Ha\'ing the advantage of a gracefid and pleasing figure, the statue of Astrea, exchanging the insignia of Justice for a sickle and wheatears, was placed in the new character of Ceres, as an ornament to the Old Corn Exchang-e which was erected in the year 1810." In visiting the various remains of ancient architecture, they did not fail to notice the spot where formerly stood the residence of Sir Anthony Wingfield, K.G., vice-chamberlain, and one of the execu- tors of Henry VIII. Part of the decorations remained in a very famous room in the "Tankard" pubhc- house until that building was pidled down. Close by stands the Theatre, and upon its stage, many very popular actors and actresses have played their parts. Here David Garrick, under the assumed name of Lyddal, made his first dramatic attempt, in the character of 174 Ar SEASON AT HARWICH. Dlch, in the Lyhuj Valet, in tlie year 1739. Miss Bnmton, (afterwards Mrs. Merry,) pronounced the best trag-edian of the day, after Mrs, Siddons and Miss O'Neil, also made her debut at this theatre. Mrs. Keeley, then Miss Goward, appeared on this stage, at the age of sixteen, and was received with rapturous applause. She is a native of Ipswich, and the inhabitants are justly proud of her. The front of the Town Hall is composed of a tetra-style portico, w4th pediment and entablature : two pilasters grace each side in the Anglo- Roman style. It is rather thin in its detail, but generally is in good keeping with the modern structures that are every where succeeding the venerable old houses in the town. In the Old Butter Market they were shown an ancient mansion, built in 15 G7, for Mi*. Robert Sparrowe, several times bailiff of Ipswich, whose respectable and worthy descendants of the same name, continued to inhabit it until lately. The building is large, and on the second floor are four bay windows in the front. It has a breadth of seventy feet ; at the base of these windows are very grotesquely sculptured the emblematical figiu'es of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, with their peculiar attributes. Above the windows is a considerable projection, extending the whole length of the front, and forming a promenade outside the house. On the roof are four attic windows, forming so many gable ends, and correspond- ing to those beneath. Over these upper windows, are figures of Cupids, in various attitudes ; and the whole of the exterior is pro- fusely ornamented with animals, fruits, and flowers ; with wreaths of roses, and devices relating to the armorial bearings of the Sparrowe family. No chimnies can be seen from the street. On the west end of the house, facing St. Stephen's Lane, is represented an luicouth statue of Atlas, with a long beard, kneeling on one knee, and supporting the globe on his shoulders. At the corner a little below this, is a pastoral scene, intended, no doubt, as an illustration of the first Eclogue of Virgil. There is the shepherd Meliboeus, with his flock, and the idle Tityrus reposing under the shadow of the wide-spreading beech tree. From the nature of these ornaments, it may be fairly inferred that the founder of the mansion was engaged largely in the wool trade — at one time the great staple commerce of Ipswich. CHAPTER ' X. 175 In the centre of the lionse, in front^ are displayed the royal arms of Charles II., executed in a better style than the rest of the orna- ments. Several of the rooms are pajielled with oak, and exhibit perfect and curious specimens of the wood carving* of the period. On one side of the court-yard is a gallery over a colonnade, supported by pillars. The principal apartment (formerly the drawing-room) is forty-six feet long-, twenty-one feet wide, and lofty in proportion, being- the largest room of any private house in the town. There is a room in the roof of the back part of the house, the entrance to which was ingeniously concealed by a sliding- panel, having only one small window, and this cannot be seen from any other part of the premises. It had been fitted up as a small chapel, or oratory ; and there is a tradition in the family, that Charles II. was concealed in this room some time after the battle of Worcester. The truth of this circumstance is not, indeed, confirmed by direct evidence ; but it is certain that there was a peculiar and intimate connection between tliis monarch and the Sparrowe family, for there were here, not long- ago, three original pictures of Charles, and other portraits of the Stuart family, by Kneller, Vandyke, and Lely ; and the family still possess two beautifully executed miniature portraits of the king- and Mrs. Lane, splendidly set in gold, which, it is said, were presented by Charles to his host, when he left the place of his concealment, and the royal arms in front of the house tend still further to corroborate this conjecture. Though the house has now stood for a period approaching- three centuries, it is stiU in excellent preservation, and well worth the attention of the curious. This fine old mansion has been lately occupied as a bookseller's establishment ; and the magnificent reception-room has been con- verted into a subscription library. " Ipswich," remarked Dr. Wilson, " is not behind any of the neighboiu'ing towns in the march of intelligence ; and one proof of this is the fact that, so early as 1824, a Mechanics' Institution was founded here, and met with very liberal support ; there is a g-ood library connected with the estabhshment, and also a museum, con- taining- many valuable specimens of natural history, g-eology, arts, and manufactures. Many of the neighbouring- gentry have con- tributed to the formation of the library and museum, and their 176 A SEASON AT HARWICH. names are recorded in a book kept tor that purpose in the institution. Miss Archer having- remarked on the number of Quakers whom she had seen in the town, Dr. Bremmer said, that the doctrines of this inoffensive sect must have g-ained footing- in Ipswich at a very- early period, as several persons suffered imprisonment here for hold- ing- them, in the time of Oliver Cromwell; and in the year IGGO, no less than twenty-three persons were at once committed to prison, for cong-reg-ating- tog-ether, and refusing- to pay tithes. Indeed it was not till the accession of William III. to the crown, that the Society of Friends met with any kind of toleration ; but from that time they have continued unmolested, and are now held in deservedly hig-h estimation, for the probity of their deaHng-s, and the mild simplicity of their manners. Soon afterwards the party had an opportunity of bearing- per- sonal testimony to the truth of these remarks, by the urbanity and kindness shown by the heads of a disting-uished firm, in Ipswich, who were of this persuasion. Having* been invited to inspect the manufactory of the Messrs. Ransomes and May, iron founders, they arrived at casting- time, as was purposely arrang-ed by Dr. Wilson. Here they were led into a large room, from one end of wliich appeared to flow a stream of liquid fire, scattering- sparks in every direction, and emitting- a sulphuric vapour that rendered the atmosphere very offensive, while dingy, half- naked figures, running- to and fi-o, as their services were required, at once sug- gested to the party an idea of the lower regions. It would take up far more space than we can afford, to describe the wonders of this manufactory, which has grown up almost entirely by the efforts of the present proprietors ; but we cannot take our leave, without mentioning that these worthy men have shown a noble example of kindness for, and interest in, their numerous workmen, and others of the same class resident in the town, by continued efforts to place within their reach the sources of intellectual and moral improvement, and giving every encouragement to the artisan and mechanic to avail himself of the happiness to be derived therefrom. After spending a week at the hospitable abode of Dr. Wilson the party took leave of their liberal host, and returned by the CHAPTER X. 177 steamer, whicli was so excessively crowded witli jileasure-seeking voyag'ers, that Dr. Bremmer coiild not help remarking- how much it put him in mind of former times, as in his boyish days he rememhei'ed that, in consequence of the Harwich encampment, formerly noticed, the wherries plying" on the Orwell were crowded to excess, and frequently ohlig-ed to leave many behind, so that between twenty and thirty open boats have been known to start from Ipswich in a day, for the conveyance of passeng'ers to Harwich. As the steamer approached the mouth of the Orwell, the whole party were unanimous in theii' exclamations of delight at the scene which lay before them. The harbour was dotted with craft of all sizes, some with their canvas spread before the gentle breeze that wafted them silently through the sparkHng element, while others were riding at anchor upon its gently undulating bosom. Directly before them, the town of Harwich — with its naval yard, noble church, and lofty hghthouses — occupying the neck of land separating the German Ocean from the Stour ; to the right, the Suffolk shore along the banks of this river ; and on the left. Land- guard Fort and an unlimited sea-view, severally called forth the admiration of the party, until the steamer was secured alongside the jetty. On landing, the carriage was found awaiting their arrival ; and, while on their way to Dovercourt, the good Doctor, under strong impressions of the scenes he had just left behind, added to the enjoyment of his friends by exclaiming, in the words of the poet, — *' Let mountain spirits fix their airy tlironc ' By the blue nishings of the arrowy Rhone ;' Or trace its devious course through Gallia's soil, Where generous wine rewards the peasants' toil : Let placid Seine in sinuous channels glide, Whilst verdant islands its broad streams divide ; Or swains, reclined in rustic ease, require Or pipe or dance beside ' the murmuring Loire : ' Through rich Champagne, with piirple clusters gay, ' Let Marne's slow waters weave their mazy way ;' Or glassy Mease, in soft succession, show Its beauteous banks reflected clear below : Where snows eternal circle freedom's home, w 178 A SEASON AT HARWICH. IjCt the broad cataract, creamed -with whitening foam. Or castles, crowning wildest crags, combine With wine-clad hills, to embellish ' lovely Rhine : ' Let Arno boast ' of art the princelj' shrine :' Replete with wonders — scarce miscalled ' divine,' — O'er rugged rocks Ticino ' madly stray ; ' Or Dora ' swift through flowery vallies play : ' Let 'Rome's vast ruins darken Tiber's wave,' Where weeping History shews a ' nation's grave : ' 'Neath Vesta's hallowed fane and classic shade, Resistless Anio ui'ge his bold cascade : Roimd Capua's ancient walls Volturnus flow, And ' trees weep amber on the banks of Po : ' Let busy Thames, with swelling sails, impart The world's rich stores to London's crowded mart ; Or thence, meandering 'midst patrician bowers — Groves ever green, or meads begemmed with flowers — Reflect proud Richmond's heights, or Windsor's regal towers ; Let fair Sabrina seek the ' western springs,' With health and plenty on her breezy wings : Let Cam and Isis rival tributes bear From cloistered coui'ts where Science' sons repair : Romantic Wye survey, with tearful smile, His time-worn Tintcrn's venerable pile ; Or Avon murmur, where his favourite child ' Warbled,' at will, ' his native wood-notes wild : Let these — 'midst rude or gentle scenery placed — AVith proud or classic recollections graced — Awhile detain the admiring eye, and claim A passing tribute to each honoured name : — The patriot spirit, and the generous mind, Affections only lastingly can bind : — And these, howe'er for health or taste we roam, Concentrate roxmd that spot we call our home : With these — e'en desert wastes have power to bless ; Without them — Eden were a wilderness : Let, then these prouder streams resplendent shine, And art with nature's softer charms combine ; Though Mincius lives in !Maro's deathless song, Or tuneful Horace Tiber's praise prolong ; By ' Ouse's tide' chaste Cowper's genius smile. Or Burns, ' by banks oi Ayr,' and his 'sweet Ballochmyle,' Give me, fair Orwell ! thy bright, beauteous shore, With virtuous friendships graced — I ask no more ! " 1?9 CHAPTER XL EXCURSION TO MANNINGTREE, MISTLEY, ETC. ANNINGTREE liad been named by Dr. Bremmer, "wlien returning" by steamer fi-om Ipswich, as ^i the point to wliich tlie next excursion should be ■;: directed ; and now, having remained a day or two je^^^^" at Dovercourt, the whole j)artv, at the usual early hour prescribed by the Doctor, were in readiness, and the carriage soon conveyed them to the village of Ramsey, the 2)arish so called extending eastward to the ocean. Here the church is an ancient gothic structure, with a square embattled tower contain- ing five bells. The chancel was rebuilt in 1597, and has an inscription in memory of Sir Thomas Devall, Knight, who was lord of the manor, and one of the representatives of Harwich in all the parliaments of King William HI., and the first two of Queen Anne. The vicarage is in the incumbency of the Rev. S. N. Bull, M.A., the good and bene- volent vicar of Dovercourt, for whom his son, the Rev. W. Bull, M.A., is curate, Avho occupies the vicarage house and eleven acres of glebe. The parish formerly belonged to Ralph Baynard, and now con- sists of seven manors — viz., Michaelstow, East New Hall, Stroud- land, and Ray, belongmg to Edgar W. Garland, Esq., to whom the old mansion, Michaelstow Hall, with its fine trees, and equally fine views belongs; Ramsey Hall, in the possession of James Hardy, Esq. ; Roydon Hall, held by James Barker, jun., Esq., of Stour Hall; and Foulton Hall, and Hill House, which appertains to Wm. Caldecott, and John Hempson, Esqrs. Some forty years ago, about loOO acres of land were added to the estate, then in the possession of Nathaniel Garland, Esq., by embankments in the estuary of the Stour, and it is much to be lamented that this spirited undertaking was not of that remunerative character, which such an amount of labour, and immense outlay of capital, deserved. After a short ride through a delightfid country, the travellers came to Stour Wood, the beautiful folia ire of which shaded the 180 A SEASON AT HARWICH. road for some distance, and at its termination, tlie young- people were amused by hearing' that a small eminence skuting it was called " Primrose Hill," a name familiar enougli to every inhabitant of London, They soon reached Wrabness, which, the Doctor informed them, in past times, belonged to the Abbey of Bury St. Edmunds, but the lordship of the manor is now vested in E. W. Garland, Esq., thoug-h a portion of the soil belongs to Miss Chaplin, Mr. Francis Richardson, and a few smaller owners. The old hall, occupied by a farmer, commands a fine view of the valley of the Stour. The church, thoug-h small, is ancient, and formerly had a stone tower, but at present a wooden turret serves the purpose. The rectory is in the incumbency of the Rev. P. Fenn, M.A., who has lately built a parsonag-e house of a handsome description, at a cost of £1300. The living- is of the annual value of JCSGO, and has about fifty acres of g'lebe attached to it. There is nothing- remarkable in the exterior of the clmrch ; but the party considered the defect amply compensated by an inspec- tion of the interior, particularly noticing- an ancient font, which, as an antiquarian, Dr. Bremmer took great pleasure in pointing- out to A.? f> WRABNESS BELFET. them. Nor did he fiiil to call their attention to the sing-tdar position of the belfry, in a corner of the churchyard, fashioned of durable CHAPTER XI. 181 oak, about twelve feet hig'li, and almost covered with ivy. The motive for thus placing- the belfry is unknown, though the peasants in the neig'hboux-hood can furnish a most solid reason ; but as it is based on Satanic interference, the Doctor declined enteinng- into farther particulars. Coming- suddenly upon the village of Bradiield, the members of the party, to whom the scene was new, were much struck with the sing-ularly neat appearance of the parish church and parsonage, as seen throug-h the luxuriant trees, whose branches overshadowed the carriage-way. The benefice is a vicarage, consolidated with the rectory of Mistley, and now in the incumbency of the Rev. J. E. Carter, B.A. ; and assuredly a more delightfid spot could not have been chosen by our forefathers for the ei-ection of a house for the worship of God, than this favoured eminence. About mid-way between Bradfield and Mistley the Doctor pointed to the ruins of the old church of St. IMary, and told his friends that on his return he should feel great pleasure in conducting them to the spot. The village of Mistley, where they next anived, the Doctor said, might almost be considered as a suburb of Manningtree, from its being so immediately adjacent. A great portion of its jjresent importance is owing to the late residence of the princely Rigbys in the parish. The Right Hon. Richard Rigby, in the latter part of the last century, built fifty of the best of the original houses, with a number of granaries and warehouses, a large malting, and the spacious quay. Mistley Hall, formerly the fi^mily scat of the Rigbys, had a beautiful and well-wooded park of seven hundred acres, and was a fine mansion, on an elevated site, commanding charming prospects of the vale and estuar}- of the Stour, but was taken down about six years ago. On the demise of the late Lieut.-Colonel Rigby, his estates devolved on Lord Rivers, in right of his lady ; and Mistley Hall, after being- divided into lots, was sold, together with the extensive park and estate. Some neat houses and other buildings have already been erected within what was before the park, and the house on tiie site of the stables, is now the residence of Robert Page, Esq. Mistley Place, another new mansion, is the seat of Edward Norman, Esq., 182 A SEASON AT HARWICH. wlio was tlie purchaser of a very large part of the Park, tog-ether witli some very extensive lands, at the sale of the estate. Can tliese changes be witnessed without a regret that they should ever have occurred.'* for Mistley Hall was nearly the only domain to ornament the most fertile of the Hundreds in Essex — that of Tendring. The lord of the manor is T. G. Kinsit, Esq., of Brighton. Richard Rigby, Esq., who died in 1732, directed his executors to rebuild the parish church, and to erect six alms' -houses near the Thorn Inn, for the residence of as many aged parishioners, to be nominated by the lord of the manor for the time being, and to have, yearly, for ever, six chaldrons of coals, twent3'-four bushels of wheat, and twenty-four bushels of barley, or malt, out of the profits of the wharfs at Mistley ; but, though twelve tenements were built by Mr. Rigby, on the site pointed out for the alms'-houses by the testator, in the year 1778, the charity had not been established in 1837, when the Parliamentary Commissioners certified the case to the Attorney-General. It has since been decreed by the Court of Chancery, that an annual sum, equal to the value of the quantities of coal, wheat, and barley, before stated, shall be distributed among- six poor parishioners, out of the earnings from wharfage, which, in 1837, amounted to about £500. On the sale of the Hall Estate, the lot thirteen, comprising part of the quay, was purchased by Mr. Allen, of Sudbury, subject to this rent-charge. Instead of rebuilding the old church, Mr. Rigby, in 1777, erected a new one at Mistley. This is an elegant and unique building, of the Doric order, surmounted by two domes. The interior is handsomely fitted up, and has some neat mural monuments of the Rigby family, whose burial-place, as before stated, is in the porch of the old church. Manningtree, said the Doctor, Avas not of sufficient importance at the time of the Conquest, to be mentioned in Domcsdai/ liooh, as a separate manor, but is mentioned with Mistley, by the name of Sciddinchou ; and at the time of the dissolution, it is described as a " g'reat towne," and also " a haven towne, having in jt to the number of 700 houseling people." The church, dedicated to St. Michael, was rebuilt in IGIG, and enlarged a few years ago, to the extent of three hundred and forty- CHAPTER XI. 183 five free sitting's, towards which the Society for Building' and Enlarging' Churches, contributed £450. The trade of the town is considerable j but chiefly confined to corn, coal, malt, timber, and fish ; and it has been much improved since a station of the Eastern Union Railway Company was erected near it. The malting' establishments pay annually to g^ovemment, in the shape of duty, the sum of £50,000 ; and the number of vessels belong-ing- to the port, now amoimts to four hundred and sixty, while in 1840 they numbered only three hundred and eight. The lig-ht dues averag-e £500 per annum. No person visiting* Manning-tree can fail to admire the beauty of the scenery presented to his view. Looking- up the stream of the Stour, he sees, along* the banks, rich meadows, interspersed with villag'es, whose picturesque churches, g-ive new interest to the scene. Fii'st appears the tower of Dedham church, peeping' out from the pretty little town of that name, and surrounded by well- wooded g'rounds and g-ardens. Further on is seen the far-f\imed church of Stoke-by-Nayland, where a curve in the river closes the scene in this direction, than which nothing- can be more lovely when seen on a clear day. It was near to tliis that Constable took the view which forms one of the best of his most celebrated landscapes. If the traveller looks down the river, he finds the prospect almost of equal beauty, and terminating with Harwich Church and Light- houses, where the craft at anchor are plainly discernible by the naked eye ; the foreground of the picture being filled up with a view of the pretty village of Mistley, with its church, quays, and shipping, wdiile the beautifully-planted seat of Edward Xorman, Esq., Mistley Place, forms an additional ornament to the scene. After having partaken of an excellent dinner at the White Hart Hotel, served in Mr. Dale's best style, the Doctor and his friends prepared to return to Dovercourt ; and having inspected the several objects of interest around them, again entered the carriage, and the pleasing journey recommenced. It was now high-tide, and the broad expanse of water before them, contrasted strangely with the flat muddy shore which had called forth tokens of disapproval from some of the party on entering Manning-tree. Mistley, which here presented a very pleasing picture, was soon 184 A SEASON AT IIAKWICII. passed throuyli, and agTceably to the g-ootl Doctor's directions, tlic carriag-e stopped at the entrance of the h^ne leading* to the remains of Old Mistley Church, to which Doctor Bremmer at once led the way. On reaching- tlie spot, the ruins of this ancient edifice proved to be of g-reat interest : all that is left consists of the south porch, in excellent preservation, and sufficient to testify the quality of the art employed on the whole structure. Its walls are to he traced only here and there, sufficient however to mark out the original plan, but no more. The porch, which is in the perpendicular style, has stone mullions with cusped heads, a variety of monog'rams, and a number of ornaments, the whole worked flush into the w^all with most accurately -jointed square flint-stones : the inference is, that this must have been a magnificent church. At present it serves as a mausoleum for the family of Lord Rivers, and the remains of many of the neighbouring families are buried in the church-yard, which is environed Avitli a low brick wall. i: EEMAINS OF MISTLEY OLD CHURCH. While these ruins presented to the antiquarian Doctor many pleasing features, and a host of remembrances, ho was delighted to niAPTKR X[. 185 find that Mr. Benson, as well as his juvenile friends, had felt sufficient interest in their veiy picturesque appearance to give them a close inspection. Ag'ain seated in the carriage, the Doctor, after contemplating the landscape spread before them, and securing' the attention of his iriends, observed — " Every place we have visited has introduced some notable personag-e to our notice : nor is Manning-tree deficient in this respect. It blushes to own one of the most atroci- ous wretches that ever existed, Mathew Hopkins by name ; but being a remarkable person, the relation of his life will forcibly serve to illustrate the ig-norance, or what is next akin to it, the superstition of an ag-e that permitted such monstrosities to be tolerated. This Hopkins, then, was the professed witch-finder for the associated counties.* It is reported of him tliat he caused to * " M X , " In the years 1644, 1645, and 1646, Mathew Hopkins, of Manningtrcc, in Essex, one John Stern, and a woman along with them, went round from town to town, through many parts of Essex, Suffolk, Xorfolk, and Huntingdonshire, to discover witches. Several clergymen preached and spoke agamst them, as far as those times would suffer, and particularly Mr. Gaul, of Stoughton, in Huntingdonshire, opposed very heartily the trade that these people drove. In the beginning of his book, he hath printed a letter that Hopkins wrote to one in his town. I will put down the letter just as Mr. Gaul printed it, because it shows us the man, and the profitable trade they made of it, and how any that opposed them were discouraged by the committees : — ' My service to your worship presented, I have this day received a letter, &c., to come to a town called Great Stoughton, to search for evil-disposed persons called witches (though I hcare your minister is fari'c against us through ignorance) I intend to come (God willing) the sooner to hcare his singular judgement in the behalfc of such parties; I have kno^^^l a minister in Suffolk preach against their discovery in a pulpit ; and forced to recant it (by the committee) in the same place. I much marvaile such evil members should have any (much more any of the clergy, who should daily preach teiTour to convince such ofl'cnders,) stand up to take their parts, against such as are complainants for the king, and sufferers themselves with their families and estates. I intend to give youre to-\\ni a visite suddenly. I am to come to Kimbolton this week, and it shall be tcnnc to one but I will come to your town first, but I would certainly know aforchand whether your town affords many sticklers for such cattell, or willing to give and afford us good Avclcome and entertainment, as otherwhere I Iiavc been, else I sliall wave vour shire, X 180 A SEASON AT HAUWICII. be hang'od, in one year, no less than sixty witches, in his own county of" Essex.* The old, tlio ignorant, and the in(hg-ent — such as could neither plead their own cause nor hire an advocate — were tlio miserable victims of this wretch's imposition and avarice. He pretended to be a great critic in special maTlis, which were only moles, scorbutic spots, or warts, which freqiiently g-row larg'e and pendu- lous in old ag'O. His ultimate method of proof was by tying* together t^ie thumbs and toes of the suspected person, about whose waist was fastened a cord, the ends of which were held on the banks of a river by two men, in whose power it was to strain or slacken it. Swimming', upon this experiment, was deemed a full proof of g-uilt, for which King- James, who is said to have recommended, if he did not invent it, assigned a ridiculous reason, ' that as such persons had renounced their baptism by water, so the water refuses to receive them,' Sometimes those who were accused of diabolical practices, were tied neck and heels, and tossed into a pond ; ' if they floated or swam, they were consequently guilty, and therefore taken and burnt j if they were innocent, they were 07ily drowned.' The experiment of swimming was at length tried upon Hopkins, in his own way, and he was upon the event, condemned, and, as it seems, executed as a wizzard. Dr. Zach. Grey says, that he had (not as yet beginning in any part of it myself,) and betake mc to such places ■where I do and may persist without controle, but with thanks and recom- pense. So I liumbly take my leave, and rest ' Your servant to be commanded, 'MATIIEW HOrivINS.' "— From Caulfifld Portraits and Memoirs of Remarkable Persons. * Amongst the liccords of the Corporation, the foUoAving entries have been discovered, developing the proceedmgs of the Quarter Sessions for the Borough of Harwich in the beginning of the 17th century ; from which it 'vill appear that this place was not exempt from the prevailing superstitions. ■'1601. April 2ath. Elizabeth Hudson and Elizabeth Hanby, indicted, condemned and hanged for witchcraft. " 1601. Aug. 25th. Alice Babb and Elizabeth Hankinson, the same. ■' IGOl. Oct. 29th. Mary Hart, the same. " 1608. March 4th. Cecilia Wigborow Avas mdicted for witchcraft, but acquitted. "1015. Aug. 4. Mary BuUer was indicted, condemned, and hanged for witchcraft." CHAPTER XI. 187 seen an account of betwixt tlu-ee and lour tliousand persons, wlio suffered death for witchcraft, in the king's dominions, from the year 1G40 to the i-estoration of Charles II." During- the recital of these atrocities, the carriag'e whirled on from Manning-tree to Harwich through scenes of surpassing loveHness. Here and there, tlie Stour presented itself to view, having at places more the character of an inland sea than a com- mon river; then the enchanting appearance of the Sutfolk side, with its churches, seats, and woods, ever and anon shewing them- selves, followed by a succession of views of hill and dale, and furnishing a toict oisemhle which must he seen and travelled over to be duly appreciated. It must not be imagined that the Doctor or his friends were heedless of the beautifxd country through which they travelled ; frequently had his attention been directed to tlie most striking- points of observation by one and another of the party, but especially by Walter, who viewed them with an artist's eye, and now, before he could finish his account of the Manning-tree witch-finder, the carriage had proceeded to within a short distance of Dovercom-t. On once more entering the dwelling of their host, many were the expressions of gratefulness he received ; to all which the Doctor very calmly replied, that he felt peculiarly happy in having been so successful in his endeavours to jjlease his visitors. Ileceiving- the letters that had been delivered in their absence, each of the party selected his or her ovra. The Doctor said that, amongst other communications, he had a notice to attend a con- sidtation at the Asylum for Idiots, held at Essex Hall. " You, doubtless, recollect that I pointed out the building- to you, on our leaving tlie raQway-station at Colchester." * " Yes," replied Mr. Benson, " I particularly admired the mansion : it was, I think, in the modern Italian style : and having read, with considerable interest, several works treating- on the unhappy malady for which this institution is intended to provide a remedy, I trust that the benevolent promoters may meet with such encouragement from the wealthier classes as the object of their ceaseless exertions so well merits." * Sec page 22. 188 A SEASON AT IIAUWICII. ''As y(jii take .so much interest in the subject, Mr. Benson/" said tke Doctor, " I will give you my information relative to the rise and ])rogTess of this truly philanthroj)ic institution. It is an auxihary to the Park -House Asyhun at Hig-hg-ate, which had been established only a few years, when our present Sovereig'u most g-raciously consented to give her patronag-e to it, and made his Royal Hig-hness the Prince of Wales a life-g-overnor, by the liberal donation of 250 guineas. The success which attended the exertions of the committee of g-entlemen, enabled them to extend the benefits to ninety- six patients; these, with the attendant manag-ers and staff, numbered one hundred and thirty persons, and the entire household subsequently rose to one hundred and fort3^-five. At length, Park-House was reported to be full ; and it therefore became necessary that the Governors shoxdd select some suitable place to meet demands for increase of accommodation. Their attention was at this time drawn to Essex Hall, Samuel Morton Peto, Esq., M. P., the proprietor, had expressed a wish that it migiit be devoted to some such benevolent purpose, and most nobly offered to subscribe the munificent sum of £200 per (mnuni to the funds of the charity ; and furthermore, to lend £1000, without interest, to meet the first expenses of occupation, if they shoidd be disposed to take charge of the building-. This proposal, so beneficial and advantageous to the interests of the infant charity, was, of course, most gratefully accepted. The board, accordingly, took possession the Christmas of 1849, and at this time a considerable number of patients are located there. The Governors cherish a hope that whilst these arrangements meet present exigencies, they may event- ually induce the eastern counties to adopt this as their own Asylum, and so place the Board at liberty to take one situate nearer to the metropohs." " Truly," observed Mr. Benson, " if we may judge from the active benevolence of one man, a charity, to provide for all the children in the county that may be afllicted, need only to be set on foot in order to be carried successfully out.'' " IVo doubt, before a very distant period," said Doctor Bremmer, " the institution will be exclusively devoted to the requirements of Essex ; for, upon examining the subscription hst, I am of opinion it CHAPTER XI. 189 cannot fail to be so, including-, as it docs, such names as the following- : — Ambrose, Bag-shaw, Barnes, Bawtree, Beard, Benham, Benson, Bishop, Burmester, Butler, Can-, Catchpole, Cooper, Cross, Deane, Griffin, Erring-ton, Harwood, Hawkins, Hayward, Hewell, Jenkins, Levitt, Lewis, Long-uehays, May, Murridg-e, Mills, Needham, Newman, Nunn, Osborne, Philbrick, Phillips, Round, Say, Smy thies, Sutton, Turner, Unwin, Wells, and many others." The good Doc- tor went on to say — " As you, Mr. Benson, are a stranger, many of the names are, of course, unknown to you ; but this is not the case in the county. Several of them are clerg-ymen of the established church, and all held in high estimation in the locality, most of them being- active and enlightened members of the various benevolent institutions scattered over the land. The design of this establishment is not merely to take idiots under its care ; but more especially, by a skilful and energ-etic apphcation of the best means of education, to prepare them for the duties and enjoyments of life ; while its benefits are open to the afflicted from all parts of the united king-dom whose friends may be destitute of means for providing- succour for them. Here they are placed on the foundation, by the open election of the siibscribers ; whilst such as can afford it may, on a moderate p-ay- ment, (to be regulated by the Board of Direction,) independent of those regnilarly elected, be supplied with like advantages. Persons at all periods of life are admissible ; but generally that of infancy and childhood is preferred, as the most favourable for the course of treatment and education adopted." Mr. Benson heard the Doctor with great patience, considering that he himself had something- to say upon the subject of the present system of imparting instruction. " In France, Germany, and Switzerland," observed Mr. Benson, " where the treatment is similar to that ailopted at Essex Hall, it has been incontroveriibly proved, that these unfortunates of the human race, however feeble their reasoning powere, ai-e awakened by education from their state of restlessness, disobedience, and dirty habits, to a more peaceful temperament and compliance with the requests of their teachers, as well as to habits of cleanliness, regularity, and usefulness, by mild measures. You may [)erceive in the face of one, the smile of rccou'nition, and in anotlier, th;it 190 A SEASON AT HARWICH. of liuppint'ss, whose features hitherto were inexpressive and utterly- vacant. Thus do we learn how the most apparently hopeless of human maladies may be overcome, and the poor creature who not long- before was considered a fit subject for vulgar sport, is delivered from his tormentors ; his fellow-sufferer also, in a more elevated sphere, is secure from the doubtful society of unedticated servants, or the want of firmness on the part of well-meaning- friends and relatives, when received into an institution of this kind : and minds that have been deemed inaccessible, are made capable of perticipating- in the agrcwens of this life, and even brought to com- prehend some knowledge of the life to come. How touchingly has Eliza Cook advocated the claims of the Idlut Born : — ' Use him faii-ly, he will prove How the simple breast can love ; He will spring, with Infant glee, To the form he likes to see. Gentle speech or kindness done Truly di/i'ls the witless one. Heartless traitors, do not scorn Tlie teaching of the idiot bom. Art thou great as man can be ? The same Hand moulded him and thee Hast thou talent ? Taunt and jeer Must not fall upon his ear. Spurn /dm not ; the blemish' d part Had better be the head than heart. Thou wilt be the fool to scorn The teachmg of the idiot born.' I think," continued Mr. Benson, " that Park-House, Ilighgate, was the first Asylum of its kind established in England." " No," answered the Doctor, " that at Bath, I have been given to understand, preceded it ; and which, for a period of four years, has been silently and gradually progressing. Having dwelt upon this subject at snfiicient length, we will dismiss it for a more enlivening theme — that of the annual Regatta, which will take place in a few days. To-morrow, and for a day or two after, I must claim your indulgent permission to be absent , but I am sure you will find subjects to interest and amuse you all till I return." With these observations, terminated the day. 191 CHAPTER XII. PLEASURE -TRIPS BY LAND AND WATER THE REGATTA — AND CONCLUSION OF THE NARRATIVE. HE Doctor and his guests indulg-ed in many delig-litful pic-nic parties during- the summer. Indeed, few places boast of more enchanting* scenery for such riu'al enjoyments than Harwich and its neighbourhood. Amongst other spots, there is the "Cat-house," in Archdeacon Berners' Park, whither, through that gentleman's kindness, pleasm-e- seekers frequently resort, to avail themselves of the seclusion afforded by the shady groves on the banks of the beautifid Orwell. Then there is the Martello Tower on the eastern side of Landguard Fort, whose worthy old occupants are ever ready, with civil attentions, to show visitors over it, and from its summit a vast expanse of water and the surrounding country are seen to gTcat advantage. Then, again, the equally picturesque situation of Shotley Tower, and the dehg-litM village of Sutton, in Suffolk, of which the Rev. Thomas Mills is rector, proved well worth the troidjle taken to visit them. The fine old towns of Bury St. Edmund's, Sudbur}', and other interesting places were not forgotten ; indeed, the excursions proposed and arranged by the benevolent Doctor, at once met the approval of his guests, who, in availing themselves of his direction, always had occasion to comTuend his choice. Thus the season was passing away — one day on the river, or a cruise to sea, in a yacht; the next, seeking the thickly-wooded shade to screen themselves from the hot smi. At other times, the}' might have been seen exploring an ancient hall or grange, half in ruins, or some monastic building entirely so, that bats and ovvls had taken possession of, to hold their midnight orgies in; indeed, the tastes of all who have time and curiositv to explore this 192 A SEASON AT HARWICH. liitlierto neglected part of our island, may hero find .sufficient to g-ratify their expectations. If the still water — appearing- like Sol's looking-g-lass, accompanied by all the charms of .solitude — make a charming- picture, here the same may be found. If, on the contrary, the bold sea — extending- over apparently boundless space, with its invigorating breath and foaming tides — and all the accessories of a marine existence, are sought for, no place can offer g-reater facilities. If the g-eolog'i.st would know a fitting- place where he mig'ht prosecute his researches in his favourite science, the Cliff at Harwich is ready to reveal to him the annals of the g-lobe's histor3\ The same may be said to the naturahst, whether his department be the " birds of the air," or the " fishes of the sea," since as many varieties visit us (as will be demonstrated on perusing- Part II. of this work) as are to be met with in any part of our land. We refer the botanist also to the latter portion of this book, who, we trust, will find ample hints to assist him in his par- ticular walk. The archaeologist will likewise have a wide field in the abundant remains of ancient abbey.s, churche.s, and manor- houses scattered over the surrounding- neighbourhood, which will employ liim many months. The painter too will find an endless variety of subject for his pencil — objects occurring' in every direction to charm him. Still more than these, is the medical practitioner warmly urged to visit this region, that he may benefit those of his patients who require a sea-side residence. The air is usually very niild; and, when blowing- fi'om the southward, especially exhilar- ating; and health-bestowing- ; to which, those who visit us for the benefit of sea-bathing will bear testimony. Nor need the .sports- man despair of active employment for his dog, gun, and fi.shing- gear ; while yachtsmen of noble birth boast of having their names enrolled amongst the members of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club, and the peculiar adaptation of our harbour to their favourite and manly and national pursuit. Agreeably to arrangements made on the preceding evening, the Doctor had taken leave of his fi'iends this morning, on his visit to Essex Hall; but not until he had as.sured them that he should return in time to attend the first day's Regatta, for which preparations were already making. During his absence, Walter CHAPTEU XII. 193 was frequently watcliing- tlie progress of a g'ang- of workmen employed in embellishing' the grounds adjoining the proposed New Town; and nothing can exceed the desirable clianges, and tlie rapidity with wlxich they have been effected, under the able direction of a landscape gardener of considerable note. Trees innumerable had been felled or uprooted ; the town and streets, in embryo, made their appearance ; the common-sewer had already been constructed : all was activity and life, which seemed to promise that tliis addition to Harwich, so much desired, and presenting advantages rarely to be met with elsewhere, must result favourably. " It is gratifying," Walter observed, as he opened a copy olDal^s Harwicli for Elizabeth's inspection, while they walked over the site ^^ _^^-s=^^=->si!^„~^-'i«x -^^^m^^^^^^j^^:^^^^^ FAC-SIillLE OP AN OLD PRINT. " A. Land-guard Fort. B. The Andrews or Barr of Sand runing from the Fort. C. The South or Dover Court Point of the Haven's mouth. D. D. The Strata of Sand, Gravel, Fossil- Shells, and their Fragments. E. The Stratum of Blcwish Clay, divers feet deep. F. The heep of Gravel, Sand, and Shells, &c. which caveiug down from the Top, ly at the bottom of the Cliff. G. ClifT-Stones, which ly upon the Shore before the Cliff. H. Persons observing the Cliff. I. A Stone of the Lower or Stoney Stratum." of the New town, " to look back upon what the Beacon Cliff was one hundred and twenty years ago. See what it is now ! IIow Y 194 A SEASON AT HAKWICH. endless the chang-es continually recun-ing : even here, where very recently luscious fruits and beautiful flowers were growing- in such rich profusion, before long- houses will be constructed, and what was productive land, will be turned to stone road-ways, with flag'-stone pavement, gas lamps in the streets, &c., all, indeed, will be as com- pletely metamorphosed on the land where we now tread, as the scene before us has been since Dale's time, when the overhanging cliff, a sketch of which we have just examined, projected over a considerable space now covered by the rolling surf." The Doctor returned in the evening of this day, and proposed, as the next was the appointed one for the Regatta, that his friends should retire early to rest : following his advice, they betook themselves to their respective rooms, determined to be up betimes, in order fully to enjoy the forth-coming gala, one now to be witnessed for the first time by most of the party. As may be supposed, the junior members of the circle were up before their usual hour, and all were out early to be present at the first match ; but, notwithstanding this, they found the shore already lined with a number of spectators ; which called forth an exclamation fi-om the Doctor, to the effect that he had never before witnessed such a prodigioiis concourse assembled at one time. It has been stated, upon good authority, that, owing to the facilities afforded by the Eastern Union Railway Company, and the steam- vessels in connection therewith, and those belonging to the Ipswich Steam Navigation Company, plying upon the Orwell, upwards of 10,000 persons were transported to Harwich, the majority of whom had never previously been present at a similar fete. It is needless to say how admirably adapted the harbour is for the exhibition of sports of this truly national character. From the Beacon Hill the whole race could be plainly seen — even when the yachts rounded the Cork Light-vessel — the extreme limit of the course, seaward. It wants colour and the limner's art to describe the dazzling dress that the harbour wore on the occasion. Yachts and craft of all sizes — from the rakish schooner and light cutter- rigged pleasure-boat, down to the unostentatious wherry — were to be seen in every direction dancing over the vindulating- surface in most pictiu'esque confusion. CHAPTER XII. 195 " So well they played the enchanter's part, Diffusing bliss around, Not a tearful eye, nor an aching heart. Could on the Cliff be foiuid." All the preliminaries having- been settled, relative to tonnag-e and other regulations of the committee, the signal-g'tm announced, at about one, p.m., the preparation for the start, for a cup valued at thirty guineas. This prize was presented by the Royal Harwich Yacht Club, and consequently the contest was confined to vessels numbered on its own list. The Prima Donna, of 25 tons, and Frolic, of 12 tons, were the only yachts that contended for this first prize. The most striking features of the races were the simultaneous hoisting- of the snow-white canvas, the swinging- round of the yachts with their heads in one direction, as they cast off their mooring-s ; the frantic endeavours made on board each craft to be the first to display the broad expanse of g-aff-topsail ; and the momentary con- fusion of huddled cutters and signal-colours, until the leaders were fairly out ; to describe which fully would be almost a hopeless task. The Frolic, after a most interesting- match, was the successful competitor, by ten minutes ; and, according- to the opinion of a most competent authority, though not so exciting- as some con- tests that have been witnessed, this was not inferior to most. The next match was for a piece of plate of the value of ten guineas, for which six yachts started. This match was rendered more exciting- than the preceding- one, from the fact of the yachts being- more equally tonnaged, and was well contested throughout ; not more than two minutes diflPerence being between either of the yachts. The Fawn, at ten minutes to six, carried oft' the piece of plate. The rowing matches commenced about five o'clock, the course marked out for them being- from a flag-boat westward of the light- house, round a buoy off the breakwater and back, to the stewards' barge. The whole course was visible to immense crowds on the Esplanade, which now forms one of the most extensive and healthful promenades on the whole eastern coast. Scientific or well-trained rowing is not expected at a coast 196 A SEASON AT IIAnWICH. Reg'atta — it is downrig-lit " tug- at the oar," with a perfect know- ledge of the imder-currents and the effect of tide and wind in the harbour. The men eng-ag-ed in the matches were pitted against each other without regard to weiglit or age ; and if there was not that "skill and dexterity" displayed, as seen on the Thames, above bridge, and other placid streams, yet, taken on the whole, each was a very spirited affair, created the liveliest interest, and gave universal satisfaction. The sports, of various kinds, were continued to a very late hour ; and notwithstanding so many people were constantly arriving during the day, by the five fine steamers that plied continually between Ipswich and Harwich, not a single accident happened. The Doctor and his g-uests at intervals went home several times in the course of the day, but again resorted to the scene of such harmless enjoyment ; and being determined upon witnessing the very close of the first day's amusements, it Avas late before they finally returned. During the time that the racing yachts were outside the harbour and making for the Cork Light, Walter accepted an invitation fi-om a member of the Royal Harwich Yacht Srpiadron to pay a short visit to the Club-house, to be further informed upon the subject generally, and as to the rise and progress of this Eastern Coast Aquatic Society. Mr. Octavius Nelson, who had favoured Walter with the invita- tion, evinced his thorough acquaintance with the history of this and most of the yacht clubs in the kingdom. He remarked, that at the first meeting held to discuss the feasibility of forming a Yacht Club in the port, Harwich was considered to embrace all points necessary, and to be the only place on this coast fitted for such an undertaking. " There is no doubt," said Walter, " from what I have witnessed to-day, that no harbour can afford a better or a fairer course for a Regatta. And from the Beacon Cliff the vessels may be seen all the way round, which is a very great advantage to spectators." "We were always perfectly satisfied as to the harbour being fitted for our purpose," said Nelson, " but there was some doubt as to what support we might receive fi-om yacht-owners." " I counted sixty yachts here this morning ; " observed Walter, CHAPTER XII. 197 " and some of them, I was told, are above one hundred tons burthen." " They are/' said Nelson, " and among- them is the Ajiaconda schooner, belonging- to our commodore, Sir Charles Ibbetson. She exceeds a hundred tons, and is also a very fast craft." " She did not race to-day," said Walter. " Oh, no ! " continued Nelson, " a commodore's berth is no sinecure on a reg-atta day in his own port, I can assure 3'ou. He presides, inter alia, over the committee during- the transaction of business in the morning- ; has the chief command afloat during- the races, and takes the chair at the club-dinner in the evening-; all of which affords employment and excitetaent enoug-li without contending- for a cup himself. But at other stations — at Plymouth, for instance — the Anaconda has occasionally raced, and earned well-deserved laurels." " Was she built at Harwich ? " inquired Walter. " No," replied Nelson, " at Cowes, by White ; and she has admi- rably sustained his ^eat reputation, both abroad as well as at home." " Abroad ? " repeated Walter inquiring-ly. " Oh, yes ! " rejoined Nelson. " When the Anaconda was once at Naples, in the month of February, she raced ag-ainst the Crusader, belong-ing- to his royal big-hness the Prince of Syracuse, and beat her easily in a course of thirty-five miles — from a boat moored off the villa Reale, round another off Sorrento, and back to the point of starting-. A second race took place, with the same result." " Was the Crusader built at Naples ? " " No ; she was also constructed by White, of Cowes. But the Ariaconda, while at Naples, also had a trial with two Russian cor- vettes, the fastest in the Muscovite navy, and these she also beat easily — ^both weathering and fore-reaching on them. So you see we of the Harwich Club have good reason to be proud of our com- modore's craft ; and I may mention, while on the subject, that at the grand naval review at Cherbourg, in September, 1850, in the presence of the Prince-President Louis Napoleon, the Anaconda was the sixth vessel in the starboard division of the thu'ty English 198 J^ SEASON AT IIAKWICH. yaclits tliat put to sea, and manoeuvred so ably on that day, to tlie wonder and astonisliment of the French officers." " I beheve your yachts are exempt from port dues in France," observed Walter. " They are," Nelson replied, " and I will presently show you the letter we received from the French Government on the subject. But, reverting- for a moment to the progress of the club, as to which you seek information, I must confess that, from September, 1843 to April, 1845, but little advance was made. At the latter date there were but nine yacht clubs in the United Kingdom, of which Harwich stood the eighth in seniority.* But subsequently to 1845, I am proud to say, our committees have met with invariable success and prosperity." " I was highly gTatified," said Walter, " on a former visit to the club-house, to hear that Wilham Knight, Esq., Rear-Commodore of the club, had been instrumental in procuring the distinguished patronage first of H. M. Adelaide the Queen Dowager ; and then that of H. M. Queen Victoria and her consort Prince Albert." Nelson took a manuscript volume from one of the book-cases, and, on handing it to Walter, observed — " Here are the three letters. Read them." I. " Lord Howe begs to present his compliments to Mr. William Knight, and is honored by the command of Queen Adelaide to state that it will give Tier Majesty very sincere gratification to do anything which can mark Her Majesty's devoted attachment to the navy of England, and believing Yacht Clubs are some of the best employments of seamen, and an excellent means of encouraging amusements so entirely national, Her Majesty will be glad to become Patroness of the Harwich Yacht Club." II. " Sir, — I am directed, by Secretary Sir James Graham, to inform you that he has laid before the Queen your letter of the 28th of April [1846] soliciting * In April, 1845, the nine clubs were, in their order of seniority, the Royal Cork ; lloyal Yacht Squadi-on, (Cowes ;) Royal Thames ; Northern ; West- ern ; Eastern ; Southern ; Harwich, and Mersey. But a tenth Yacht Club was founded at Ryde in May, 1845, called the Victoria Yacht Club ; and now, in 1851, the United Ivingdom contains no less than seventeen Royal Clubs, full particulars of wliich maybe foimd in Hunfs Universal Yaeht List, now an annual pul)lication. CHAPTER xir. 199 Her Majesty's patronage for the Harwich Yacht Club, and that Her Majesty has been graciously pleased to consent to be the Patroness of the Club. (Signed.) "H. Manners Sutton." III. « Buckingham Palace, 21 May, 1846. " Sir, — I beg to acknowledge the receipt of yoxir letter of the 19th instant, which I have laid before Prince Albert, and in reply to it, I am commanded to inform you that H. K. Highness very readily accedes to the request which has been made that he should become a joint Patron with her Majesty of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club. (Signed.) " G. Axson." " Well/' exclaimed Walter, after reading* the letters attentively, " all this must have proved a very satisfactory commencement of your club, and an incentive to local exertion. But what does this next epistle refer to ? " " This," said Nelson, " is a letter from the Lords of the Admiralty granting us our particular colours. Peruse it." Walter read as follows : — IV. " 1 April, 1845. " Sir, — In reply to your letter of the 27th of March [1845,] respecting the colors to be worn by the Harwich Yacht Club, I am commanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, to acquaint you that they are pleased to authorize the Club to wear the Blue Ensign of Her Majesty's Fleet with a Lion Rampant (or) in the field thereof, and facing the Union, £is the distin- guishing marks of the Club ; also, a Blue Burgee with the same device thereon ; and my Lords wil cause the necessary Warrants to be transmitted to you, on receiving the names of the vessels and theii* O'wners, for which such Warrants are requii-ed. (Signed.) "H. Corry." "To Wm. Knight, Esq." " Read the next letter," said Nelson, " 'tis from the Treasury, dated 28 November, 1845, and also addressed to the Rear-Commo- dore. I may observe, at once, that the Admiralty, and Treasmy, and Coast-Guard, and Trinity House, and Customs, have each and all conferred privileges on the Harwich club. But read." Walter turned to the book as directed. Y. " Sir, — Having laid before the Lords Commissionei's of Her Majesty's Treasury your letter of the 8th inst., requesting that the Members of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club may enjoy the same privileges as have been 200 A SEASON AT HARWICH. granted to the Royal Yacht Club of Cowes, I have it in command to acquaint you that their Lordships have given the necessary directions to the Commis- sioners of Customs for a compliance with your request. (Signed.) "Edw, Cardwell." "To W, Ivnight, Esq." " Having- })ei'used five letters, I may as well read on/' said Walter j " we have yet a little time to spare before the racing- yachts reg-ain the harbour." " I'll not interrupt you," said Nelson, " further than to point out this table which shows the foreig-n countries and places in which the vessels of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club are already exempt from port dues ; being- thus placed, as it were, on the same footing' as Eng-hsh men-of-war." And here Nelson read aloud the countries which have conferred these useful privileg-es^ as arranged in the following- table : — Holland Spain Belgium Sardinia Francfort-on-Maine Austria France Turkey Portugal Egypt Having- looked carefully at this list, Walter next proceeded to scan fiu-ther documents relating- to the club, which we think better to subjoin seriatim, omitting- the conversational remarks made between Mr. Nelson and his visitor during- the investigation. VI. " Hamburg, 6 August, 1845. " Sir,— AVith your dispatch of the 7th of J\dy, you forwarded an applica- tion of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club, signed ' William Knight, Rear-Com- modore,' and dated 4th of July, 1845, applying for an exemption from port- chai'ges. You are hereby authorised to state in reply, that the exemption has accordingly been granted to all vessels belonging to the said club, and not carrjdng any goods, in the same manner as it had been granted already to vessels belonging to the Royal Cork Yacht Club, luider date the 18th April, 1843. (Signed.) "K. Sieveking. " Syndic Secretary of State "To J. Colquhoun, Esq., " for Foreign Affairs." " Political Agent and Consiil- General, London." vn. " The Sardinian ISIinister presents his compliments to Mr. "W. Knight, and in reply to his communication, as Rear-Commodore of the Royal Harwich Russia Norway Prussia Hamburg Lubec Hanover Denmark Bremen Sweden Oldenburgh CHArTEii xir. 201 Yacht Clul), dated 28th of July last, has to acquaint him that the Sardinian Government has decided on granting to the vessels of that club exemption from all port dues and charges. The Sardinian Mijiister has farther to request that ]Mr. W. Knight will supply him with full lists of the yachts belonging to the club, for transmission to the Sardinian Government. "Nov. 1, 1845." The eig'htli letter, dated Augiist 19th, 1845, was from the Ilig-h Senate of the free city of Francfort- on-the-Maine, gTanting to the Royal Harwich Yacht Cluh " permission to enter and navig-ate the waters of the city, and to remain there, free of port-dues or any other mxmiciind tolls.'' A similar privileg-e was, it appeared, granted by Bremen on the 12th of Aug-ust, 1845 ; by Portug-al on the 18th of Aug-ust, 1845 ; by Holland and by Lubec about the same period ; by Norway and Sweden on the 11th of April, 1846, and by Russia the 14th of April, 1846. Walter continued reading- : — XV. " The Count de St. Aulau-e presents his compliments to Sir. Knight, and has the honor to announce that the Minister of Finance at Paris has now authorised the Comptroller- General of the Customs to issue orders that the yachts belonging to the Royal Har^vich Yacht Club shall be admitted into the ports of France free of port dues and charges. The club should, conse- quently, send to the Customs of France sixty lists, at least, of its vessels, for distribution in the French ports, and continue to do so amiually, in order that the authorities may have at hand the names, &c., of the yachts really belonging to the club. Tlic Covmt de St. Aulau-e A\ill be very happy to for- ward such lists to France on receiving them at the French Embassy, in Manchester Square. "6th April, 1 847." XVI. "London, 38, Harley Street, "9th March, 1847. " Sir, — I beg to infora^ you that I have just received a despatch from Her Catholic Majesty's Government, bearing date the 18th of February, 1847, in which, with reference to a communication from the Financial Department, I am apprised that the Spanish Government have acceded to the petition you forwarded to the Legation on the 11th of July, 1845, in the name of the members of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club, for a similar exemption on behalf of their yachts on entering Spanish ports as had already been granted to vessels of other clubs of the same description. It ajipcars, from the above conimuuiuation, that the request of the nicmbers of the Royal Harwich z 202 A SEASON AT HARWICH. Yacht Club had been acceded to on the 14th of April, 1846, and that the necessary instructions to that effect had been issued. (Signed.) " Miguel Tacox. " To William Knight, Esq." " Spanish Ambassador." " I perceive tliere are some more letters to tlie same effect as tlie above," said Walter, '^ and among" them one from Monsieur Drouet, tlie Belgian Charge d' Affaires in London, dated 20th of November, 1845 ; but as all eyes appear to be directed towards the point, to view the return of the racing- yachts, I must defer reading these xmtil some more fitting opportunit}' ; besides, having now perused seventeen communications, I think I have read enough for to-day." Walter asked Mr. Nelson if it was not absolutely necessary for every member of the Harwich Club to be a yacht-owner ? " Certainly not," was the reply, " and, consequently, most of the leading men in Essex and Suffolk will be found upon our list." " How many yachts have you now ? " inquired Walter. " Not quite so many as usual ; though in a month we shall receive many additions to our fleet. In August, 1845, the Har- wich Club, just two years from its foundation, contained but thirty- eiglit sail; in June, 184G, it rose to fifty-five sail ; in 1847, its list contained fifty-four sail. The total number of yachts in the seven- teen squadrons gives an average of tliirty vessels to each club. So that Harwich still possesses more than its fair share. I always carry a list in my pocket. Pray accept this." Walter accepted the offer with thanks, and after perusing- the list, tendered his acknowledgments for all the favours he had received from Mr. Nelson, and left the club-house to rejoin Doctor Bremmer and his party, which he did in time to see the winning- yacht aiTive at the goal. The close of the day found him again, as we have already stated at the Doctor's hospitable mansion at Dover- court, ready for the second day of the regatta, to which we must now turn our attention. On the second day, our party again assembled early, and reached the jetty in time to notice the excitement occasioned by the debark- ation of so many passengers fi-oin the various steamers — rendered amusing if only to hear the observations of the inexperienced in such matters, and to observe the joy depicted on every countenance. Yachts. Tons. Mosquito 50 Cynthia 50 Tartar 36 Prima Donna 2o Foam 20 CHAPTER XII. * 203 The " crack " sailing- match came off this day, being* for a hundred- g-uinea cup, presented by G. Tomline, Esq., vice-commodore of the Chib, and the contest was open to yachts belonging- to any Royal Club, without any restriction as to rig or tonnag-e. The following- yachts came to mooring-s for this prize : — Owners. Port. Lord Londesborough. Hull. J. "Wicks, Esq. London. W. H. DaAves, Esq. Southampton. F. Sykes, Esq. Harwich. T. Harvey, Esq. Colchester. From the well-known sailing qualities of the above craft, a most splendid contest was at first expected ; but owing- to the wind gradually dropping to almost a calm, the interest excited gave way on its being observed that one half their number had withdrawn, and it became evident the match would be prolonged to a very late hour. The vessels reached the goal in the following order : — H. M. H. M. 11. M. Cynthia 8 57 | Tartar 9 25 | Mosquito 9 28 At about two o'clock, six yachts started for the next prize — a piece of plate value twenty guineas — at which time there was a light breeze fi-om the north-east. The Frolic was the first to show in front, closely followed by the Fawn, with the others but just astern. In this order they went to sea, the Frolic increasing the distance on every tack, and after beating- about for a short time, passed the commodore's barge at three, on her way a second time round the course. From the flag-boat station, on tlie Rolling- ground, this yacht led back, finally winning by an hour and a half. The rowing matches to-day were quite equal to those of yester- day. For the purse of five sovereigns, between the young- water- of Harwicli and Ipswicli, a spirited contest ensued, exhibiting great endurance and bodily strength, which terminated in favom* of the Ilarwichers, who won their laurel, amidst loiui cheers, by a boat's length. The duck hunt, after various latighable and perilous inci- dents, brought this annual Regatta to another year's termmation. " FarcAvell, lovely bay, o'er thy bosom still flo\\-ing, May pleasure and commerce float proudly and free : Long, long may thy votaries, vnXh. hearts Avarmly glowing, Derive the same bliss here aflbrded to me ! '' 204 • A SEASON AT HARWICH. The commodore and members of tlie club, with their friends, dined at tlie Cups Hotel, and the pleasures of the evening- were kept up to a late hour. This house, as well as all the other inns, was crowded during- the two days. So many persons were never seen in Harwich on any ])revious occasion, yet not a single accident or breach of the peace occurred to mar the happiness of "Merrie England's hardy sons." The following- day was rendered unpropitious for out-door enjoy- ments, by the unsettled state of the weather. In the morning-, Doctor Bremmer and Mr. Benson read the journals and commented on the most striking- topics discussed, while Walter resorted to the library, where he found that it only required perseverance to make his Mescarchcs extend considerably farther than he at first contemplated. The ladies at the same time were busily engag-ed in tlieir apartment ; and the two boys had soug-ht shelter in the out- buildings, that they might indulge in their playful dehght without disturbing tlie more serious pursuits of their friends. In the evening the visitors were again seated around Doctor Bremmer, who inquired of Walter whether he had not found the library as well fiu-nished with local information as his previous remarks could have led him to expect. Walter replied that his very sanguine expectations had been far exceeded. "Amongst the many interesting anecdotes I have met with," he said, " to our present circle the one alluding to the celebrated Doctor Johnson's visit to Harwich, in company with his friend and biographer, may not be iminteresting." Accordingly, he gave it in Boswell's own words : — •♦ On Friday, 5th August, 1763, wc set out early in the morning in the Harwich stage coach. A fat elderly gentlcAvoman and a young Dutchman, seemed the most inclined among us to conversation. At the inn where we dined, the gentlewoman said, that she had done her best to educate her chil- dren, and particularly that she had never suffered them to be a moment idle. " Johnson. ' I Avish, madam, you would educate me too ; for I have been an idle fellow all my life.' " ' I am sure, sir,' said she, ' you have not been idle.' " Johnson. ' Nay, madam, it is very true ; and that gentleman there,' pointing to me, ' has been idle. He was idle at Edinburgh ; his father sent him to Glasgow, where he continued to be idle. He then came to London, CIIAPTEK XII. « 205 wlicrc ho has been very idle ; and novv' he is going to Utrecht, Avlicrc he will be as idle as ever.' •' I asked him, privately, how he could expose me so. ' Poh, poh ! ' said he, ' they knew nothing about you, and will think of it no more.' Though by no means niggardly, his attention to what was generally right, was so minute, that, having observed at one of the stages, that I ostentatiously gave a shilling to the coachman, when the custom was for each passenger to give only sixpence, he took me aside and scolded me, saying that what I had done would make the coachman dissatisfied with all the rest of the passengers who gave him no more than his due. Ila^nng stopped a night at Colchester, Johnson talked of that town with veneration, for having stood a siege for Charles I. Next day he got to Harwich to dinner ; and my passage in the packet-boat to Hclvoctsluys being secured, and my luggage put on board, we dined at the inn by ourselves. We went and looked at the church, and having gone into it, and walked up to the altar, Jolinson, whose piety was constant and feiTcnt, sent me to ray knees, saying, ' Now that you are going to leave your native country, recommend yourself to the protection of your Creator and Redeemer.' My revered friend walked down with me to the beach, where we embraced, and parted with tenderness. As the vessel put out to sea, I kept my eye upon him for a considerable time, wliile he remained rolling liis majestic frame in his usual manner ; and, at last, I per- ceived him walk back into the town, and he disappeared." Hitliei'to the weather had been so remarkably fine, that the views from the drawing-room window only furnished ideas of serenity and comfort ; but this evening' the long black streaks of clouds, left by the setting sun ; the hoarse murnmrings of the distant waves, as they rolled foamingly upon the beach, and the continued agitation of the trees, whose branches yielded to the influence of the coming gale, gave to the prospect a fur diflerent character. Miss Archer directed attention to the vessels observable, as far as e3'e coidd ken, making for Harwich Ilarboiu- through the ttirbulent waves, and giving to the young people some apprehensions as to the safety of the seamen. Doctor Bremmer, to whom such scenes were not new, here told his friends the}' might allay theu- fears, since the sailors woidd not consider themselves at present in danger. " I observe, however," continued he, taking a peep through his glass, " that the rather threatening appearance of the sky urges them to seek the security which the harbour affords." Mr. Benson here made some allusion to the deplorable loss of lives and property so frequently hajjpening ui)ou the Guntteet Sands. 206 o A SEASON AT lIAinVICH. "■ It is a melanclioly subject," observed tlie Doctor ; " and while I luive observed from this window tlie masts of more than one noble burk standing" out from those fearful sands, I have thought. How frail are the mig-htiest productions of man ! I have noticed that many of these disasters have befallen emig'rant ships from various ports in Germany, bound for the United States ; and, in some cases, when no other cause coidd be assigned than the want of a better acquaintance with our coast, and the peculiarities and positions of the numerous lights mtended to warn mariners^w^^i the dangerous sands surrounding it ; but which, if I was correctly informed, have been so mistaken as 'to lead directly into the most fearful situations. It would afford me," continued the Doctor, " no ordinary satisfaction to learn that the causes of shipwreck, and loss of life arising there- li'om, were fully investigated by the proper authorities." Miss Archer, having asked the probable extent of the Gunfleet Sands, the kind liost furnished his attentive guests with a description of them, which, he observed, had been copied from the Essex Standard, of October 8th, 1841. " A Walk ox the Gunfleet Sands. — It was on a delightful afternoon, last Aveck, that we left the pleasant watering-place of "Walton-le-Soken, in a four-oared boat, for the fatal Gunfleet Sand. Our party consisted of seven, besides the boatmen ; and the distance (about eight miles) was rowed in an hour and half. As we neared our destination (it being about half-ebb tide), a tract of the sand was seen rising, like a long mound, above the waves ; ■while to the right and left, nearly as far as the eye could reach, the dashing of the spray told the extent of this fearful bank. On approaching, we struck a -walking-stick to the bottom, and were surprised to find it very hard : our boat immediately after ran up the side, and we jumped, without difficulty on the bank, now firm and dry. The part of the sand from which the waters had retired, was about half a mile long and a quarter wide : some distance beyond, still surrounded by the waves, we observed the blackened timbers of several wrecks — melancholy memorials of the vessels' fate. The space on ■which ■we rambled wiis nearly level, with gentle undulations : and on one spot, slightly raised above the rest, we marked a deep groove in the sand heap, evidently caused by the keel of some vessel which had narrowly escaped the danger that threatened her. Some sea-birds, ■which had been observed on the sand, fled as we approached ; and nothing ■n'as now -visible to cheer the dreary monotony of the scene, but a fcAV scattered shells, some of which we gathered ; -while the car was greeted only by the rippling wave, as it unwillingly retired. Frequently as we trod on some parts less dry than CHAPTER XII. • 207 Others, the faithless natui\p of the sand was exhibited ; the foot fell on a surface apparently as hard as the high road, but on lifting it, after a few seconds' pause, it left an agitated bed of water and sand, and by pressing the foot a little it soon sank beneath the surface : had the experiment been further tried the legs and body would have shortly followed. It is thus that large vessels are swallowed up ; striking sometimes violently on the rocky surface, their weight, and the action caused by the waves, sink them in the quicksand, and they gradually disappear. The sun was low in the west when we were summoned to rejoin our party, who had already assembled at the landing-place, and after a rapid passage of an hour (during which a glorious sunset, succeeded by the pale moonlight, and that interesting phenomenon — a luminous sea, rendered the hour one of wonder and delight) we landed — just at that unaccommodating state of the tide when it becomes necessarj' for ladies to ride ashore on the sailors' arms, and gentlemen ' pick- aback ' on the same sturdy conveyancers. We were surprised to learn from our boatmen that, thronged as Walton has frequently been with visitors, and far and wide as the gloomy fame of the Gunfleet has reached, as the unsatiated grave of thousands of human beings and millions of property, they had never before taken a party to walk on the Gunfleet Sands." Miss Archer acknowledg-ed tlie kindness of the Doctor in giving- such a lengthened and interesting quotation in answer to her inquiries; whilst he, to change the tenor of their conversation, made some reference to the Tour of England, so often quoted hy Dale. " In this work," said the henevolent host, " will he found advice to persons wishing; to take a water exciu'sion on our two fine rivers. 'You must, not' says the author, 'ask to he rowed up either the Stour or the Orwell, hut you must demand to he taken up either the Ipswich or Manning-tree rivers or waters, as the case may he.' Strange, that only a few years ago, the same precaution should have heen as necessary as in 1708, Avhich the following- anecdote will testify : — ' A reverend g-entleraan heing appointed to an excellent hving-, not one hundred miles from Harwich, arrived at the hotel there, being- late in the evening*, with the view of taking- possession on the following' morning' ; accordingh' a horse and gig- were ordered, and, with skilful driver, the journey was commenced. On arriving; at Dovercourt Hill, the reverend g-entleman, looking' towards the harbour, could not help exclaiming-, ' Beautifxd Orwell !' as he g-azed upon the entrance of this charming river. The whip expressed his surprise at the exclamation, and calmly assured his fare that the Orrvdl would not arrive from London till tlie afternoon. 208 • A SEASON AT HATlWICir. Explanations of course followed ; the skilful cliariotecr had heard of the steamer Orwell, but of the river of that name he was as perfectly ig-norant as the hoatman of 1708, while like him he was well acquainted with the Manning-tree and Ipswich watcrsr " It seems that Harwich has been in danger from domestic as well as foreign foes," observed Walter, " for I found among- the papers I this morning" looked over, the following* extract : — • In 1708, Captain Smith, commanded a seventy-four gun ship, stationed to guard the coast, which he navigated to Gottenburg, and sold there. He returned to France and offered his services to Louis XIV., against his country ; he was promised a commission, and served as a volunteer with M. Langcron, from Dunku-k, and always advised a landing on the English Coast. Smith proposed to the Court to burn Harwich, if six gallics were placed at his dis- posal, which was complied with. On the 5th of September, the squadron sailed, but the French officers, not approving being commanded by a foreigner, on descrying a fleet from the Texel, resolved not to attempt Harwich, but the capture of the fleet. The 'Nightingale frigate which convoyed it was captured, and the commander, on recognising Smith, attempted to stab liim for his perfidy. — Memoirs of a Protestant condemned to the French Gallies for his Religion.' " Dr. Breramer said that Walter had proved how industrious he had been in the morning ; and he would now call their notice to a paragraph he had read in the paper, since it showed the salubrity of the climate in the neighbourhood : — *' There lived, a few years ago, in the parish of Great Oakley, in one cottage of foiu- rooms, nine persons of the rmitcd ages of nearly seven hundred years, viz. — Michael Gilbert, 78 ; Rachel Gilbert, 73 : Richard Starling, 78 ; Anne Starling, 74 ; Richard Kecble, 78 ; Elizabeth Koeble, 74 ; Widow Gallon, 80 ; Widow Ainger, 73 ; Widow Dccx, 70.— Total, 678 years." Mr. Benson jocularly observed, that if his friend had read the extract with the impression that he needed some confirmation as to the genial nature of the climate, he might have saved himself the trouble. " I have ample proof on this point," said he, " in the restoration of my daughter's health as well as my own, and the improved appearance of the two boys. And that you may know how highly I approve of the place to which you so fortunately drew my attention, it will be sufficient that I have come to the deter- mination of erecting a viUa in the neighbourhood, there to pass, for some future years, with my family, — A Season at Harw^ich." PART II. EE8EARCHBS IN THE LIBRARY OF DOCTOR BREMMEI! CONTAINING ADDITIONS HISTORICAL, NATURAL, AND MISCELLANEOUS: UNDER HEADS A. B. C. A A HISTORICAL. A. OUTLINE OF THE HISTORY OF HARWICH. N a work of tliis kind, it would be idle to speculate on tlie history of tliose times which preceded the conquest of England by the Normans. It will be sufficient to say that Harwich, Hke other parts of _. the kingdom, after the conquest by the Romans, ^■^~ passed successively into the hands of the various conquerors, who usurped the sovereignty of the rest of the island, and was in turn subject to the aboriginal and semi-barbarous Briton, the civihsed and civilising Roman, the Saxon, and the Dane ; till, at the time of William the Conqueror's invasion, Harwich, with Dovercourt, seems to have been possessed by one Ulvvin, of whom no particulars have come to our knowledge ; but he, most probably, forfeited liis lands by his adherence to the cause of the brave but unfortunate Harold. In Domesdaij Booh, we find the following account : — "The land of Albcric dc Ycr, »' Hundred of Tcndring. "Albcric holds Drunrecourt (now Dovcrcoiirt) for a Lordship, which Ulvvin held for a iNIanor, and six hides, then (in the reign of Edward the Confessor) Avcrc eight villeins (or villnins) now but six. Then were six borderers, now twelve. There were always six servants and three ploughs in the demesne, and six ploughmen, three acres of meadow pasture for two 4 nESEAUCIIES A. hundred sheep, and forty swine. Then three Runcini,* twelve animals, + two hundred sheep, and forty swine, and now in like manner. Then it was six poimds,* now twelve." This Alberic de Vere was not satisfied with the g-rant of William, § but also seized on the lands which had been g-ranted by Ulvvin to the nioidcs of Ramsey, in Ilunting'donshire, before the conquest. Alberic married Beatrice, niece and heiress of Manasses, Earl of Guisnes, in France : he founded a religious house at Colne, which was furnished with monks by the monastery at Abing-don, to which it was a cell ; and he was possessed of many lordships in Middlesex and Ilunting-donshire, nine in Suffolk, and fourteen in Essex. Alberic, the younger, his son and heir, was made Lord Great Chamberlain of England by King Henry I., to hold the same office to himself and his heirs in fee, with all dignities and liberties thereto belonging, as honourably as Robert Mallet, lord of the manor of Eye, in Suffolk, or any other before him, had held the same. In addition to the rank of chamberlain, he was made portgrave of London, and lord chief justice of England. He also executed the office of sheriff for the counties of Surrey, Cambridge, Huntingdon, Essex, Hertford, Northampton, Leicester, Norfolk, Suffolk, Buck- ingham, and Bedford ; was appointed by King Stephen to plead his cause before the Pope's Legate, at the synod of Winchester, against Robert, Bishop of Salisbury, in 1139 ; but was slain in a popular commotion at London, in the following year. He was a great benefactor to the monks of Abing-don and Thorne3% He married Adehza, daughter of Gilbert de Clare, and had by her three sons and two daughters. The younger daughter, Juliana, was married to Hugh Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, and steward to the King's household, who was advanced to these titles by Henry II., being before that styled Comes East Anglorum. It was through her that the lordships of Dovercourt and Harwich passed to the Bigods, as is proved by the i^e-grant of her son Roger, of this church (All Saints, Dovercourt), and chapel of St. Nicholas, Har- wich, to the Abingdon monks of Colne, as if he had been the =*'- Working, or mill-horsos. t Homed cattle. X Per annum, most probably. § Dugdale's Baronage, 188. RESEARCHES A. oriyiruil Ibundoi', taking )io notice of tlic previous gTunt of the elder Alberic de Vere. This Rog-er had, by Ida,* his wife, a son named Hug-h, wlio became Earl of Norfolk after his deatli, and who married Maud, eldest daughter of William Mareshall, l!larl of Pem- broke, from whom the title of lord marshal of England acei'urth B'irds. The whole length of a large specimen was five inches and three cpiartcrs. Yarreli. Genus— HyEMATOrUS. Tlie Oyster-catcher of Pennant, Gould, and of Yarrell : Pied Oystcr- catchcr of Montagu, Bewick, and of Jenyns : Common Oyster-catcher of Pleming and of Selby. Generic Characters. — Beak longer than tlic head, straight, strong ; the point much compressed, forming a wedge ; cuhnen of the anterior part slightly convex ; upper mandible with a broad lateral grooA'e, extending one lialf the length of the bill ; mandibles nearly equal in size and length, with the thin ends truncated. Nostrils basal, lateral, linear, pierced in the mem- brane of the mandibular groove. Logs of moderate length, naked for a short space above the tarsal joint ; tarsi strong. Feet with three toes only, all directed forward, rmited at their base by a membrane ; claws strong, broad, not very much pouited. — Yarrell. The Oyster-catcher is well known on the shores of our coast ; it appears to prefer sandy bays and wide inlets, bounded with banks of shing'le, as favourable localities for the production of the various molusca upon which it principally subsists, its beak being* admirably adapted for insertion between the two edg-es of a bivalve shell j and this bill is said to be able to detach limpets fi'om the surface of a rock with ease and certainty. Its food appears to be the molusca g-cnerally, worms, and marine insects. The Oyster-catcher is a handsome bird, when seen on the wing-. It runs with rapidity, can swim antl dive with ease ; and may frequently be observed to swim short distances when searcliing- for its food, but seldom dives unless to escape from an enemy. The young- birds are frequently kept tame, and will associate with domestic poultry. These birds in a wild state unite towards winter, forming- small flocks, and are then very shy and diliicult to approach. In spring- they separate ag-ain, nESEARCHES B. 53 forming pairs ; biit of these pairs, many associate and breed tog-ether at particuhxr and favourable locahties. The whole length of a specimen was rather more than sixteen inches. Gexus— CHARADRIAD^. Sanderling Plover of Pennant ; Sanderling of Montagu, Bewick, Jenyns, and of Gould: Common Sanderling of Fleming and of Selby : Ox-bird (?)* of Silas Taylor. * The Purre also, by some authors, is called the Ox-bird. Generic Characters. — Beak as long as the head, straight, flexible, com- pressed at the base, with the point dilated and smooth. Nostrils basal, lateral, narrow, longitudmally cleft in the nasal fuiTow, which extends to the smooth point of the beak. Wings of moderate length, pointed, the first quill-feather the longest. Legs of mean length, naked above the tarsal joint. Feet with three toes, all directed forwards, with a very small connecting membrane at their base. The Sanderling- is tolerably common on our sea-shore, where it is sometimes found at the edge of the water ; it occasionally associates with the smaller Plovers, which it resembles in its habits, frequent- ing- the harder parts of the sandy shore, running or fl3'ing with equal ease and rapidity. Specimens have been obtained on our coast, in the months of January, April, June, at the end of August, and in October ; yet this bird is not considered to breed in this country. Some specimens that had been shot, were so extremely fat, that upon some parts of the body, it was nearly a quarter of an inch in thickness. The stomachs of two or three that were examined con- tained the remains of shrimps, sandhoppers, &c., and had the very strong marine scent peculiar to sea-shore feeders. In its summer plumage this bird is the Huddy Plover of authors. The whole length of an adult male is about eight inches. Genus— CHARADRIAD^. The green Plover of Dale : the Green Plover of Fleming : the Golden Plover of Pennant, Montagu, Bewick, Selby, Jenyns, Gould, and of Yarrell. Generic Characters. — Bill straight, compressed, shorter than the head ; the end of the upper mandible homy, pomtcd, and sliglitly bent ; nasal furrow elongated. Nostrils basal, lateral, lincai*, longitudinally cleft in the mem- brane of the furrow. Legs of moderate length, sometimes rather elongated, naked above the tarsal joint. Toes tluee only, all diicctcd forwards, the 54 RESEARCHES D. outer toe slightly connected at the base to the middle toe. Wings of moderate length, pointed in shape ; the first quill-feather the longest.- YarrelL Dale says — " tliis is one of Mr. Taylor's kitchen provender. Its flesli is accounted a choice dish, being- sweet and tender." The Golden Plovers are remarkable for assuming- in the spring- a very different plumage from that which they wear during- the winter months ; this change is common to both sexes ; the alteration of colour is from a dull greyish white to black, which pervades the whole of the under-side of the body. The beauty of the plumag-e depends upon the constitutional vigor of the bird. This bird is found here in great abundance during the autumn, and affords an excellent repast for the table. They may be decoyed and shot by carefully imitating- their whistle. The whole length of an adult bird is rather more than eleven inches. Yarrell, ^-c. Genus— ALAUDID^. T/ie Sea-Lark of Dale, Sea- Lark, or Shore Lark, of Jexyns, Gould, and of Eyton : the Shore Lark of Yarkell. Generic Characters. — Beak short, subconic, mandibles of equal length, the upper one convex, and slightly curved. Nostrils basal, oval, partly covered by small feathers, directed forwards. Head furnished on the top with a few elongated feathers, capable of being elevated, and forming a crest. Wings rather long ; the first quill-feather generally very short, the second rather shorter than the thu'd, which is the longest in the A\ing. Feet with three toes before, divided to their origin ; one toe behind with the claw elongated and almost straight. The Shore-Lark has been seldom observed in this country, thoug-h otherwise it has an extensive g-eographical range, having- been noticed in many parts of North America. Three or four specimens have, within the last twenty years, been shot in the counties of Lincoln, Norfolk, and of Kent. In their season of mig-ration, which commences in September, they start at the dawn of day, proceed on their way south at a small elevation above the water, and fly in so straggling- a manner, that they can scarcely be said to move in flocks. The whole length of an adult male is about seven inches. Yurrell, RESEARCHES B. 55 Genus— LOBIPEDIDiE. The CommoJi Coot of Pennant, Montagu, Fi-emino, Selhy, Jenyns, and of Yaurell : the Coot of Dale, Bewick, and of Gould. Generic Characters, (according to Yurrcll.) — Beak of medium size, shorter than the head, strong, conical, straight, compressed at the base, higher than broad, superior basal portion extending up the forehead, and dilated, forming a naked patch ; points of both mandibles compressed, of equal length ; the upper one slightly curved, the inferior mandible with an angle underneath at the symphysis. Nostrils lateral, pierced longitudinally about the middle of the beak, partly closed by a membrane. Legs long, slender, naked above the tarsal joint ; three toes in front, one behind ; aU the toes long, united at the base, furnished laterally with an extension of the membrane, forming rounded lobes. Wings of moderate size ; the first feather shorter than the second or third, which are the longest in the wing. Tail short. The Coot is to be met with on the coast when the tide is down, and prefers open waters, its vig'ilance enabling- it to avoid danger. This bird having been seldom observed on dry land, its easy g-ait on the same has been doubted ; but Mr. Youell observes that " it is fully as lively on land as in the water, standing- firmly and steadily. It picks up gTain with surprising- alacrit}^, even much qiiicker than any of our domestic poultry. If deprived of water, on wliich to pass the night, it will roost, as other birds, upon any elevated situation, and it will ascend a tree with the activity of a wren." In reference to the power of its claws. Colonel Hawker says — " beware of a Coot, or he will scratch you like a cat." The authors of the Catalogtie of Nor folk and Siiffolk Birds say, '^on the banks of the Stour, the fowlers approach them, while sitting upon the ooze, b}'- concealing' themselves behind a screen made of bushes, which is placed upon a sledg'e and driven before them. On crossing- the Stour in the month of January, in a dead calm, we observed the Coots floating upon the water in a semich-cle. On our approach, within about two hundred yards, the whole body, amounting at the least calculation to several thousands, partly rose and flapped along the surftice of the water, making a tremendous rusliing noise. Had there been any wind, they wotild have risen into the air without difticulty j but, there being none, they could scarcely disentangle their feet. We killed two woimded birds ; one of them aftbrded excellent sport, not suffering the boat to approach 56 RESEARCHES tt. it witliout (living-, and coming- up ol'tentimes a hundred 3'ards off : it had the action and alertness of a dohchick," Sir WiUiam Jardine says — " Coots fly witli tlieir legs stretched out behind, acting- the part of a tail, in the manner of a heron," Coots breed in many parts of Eng'land. Mr, Hewitson sa3's, their nests are larg'e and apparently clumsy at first sig-ht, but are strong- and compact ; they are built commonly amongst reeds ; their foundation is sometimes in a depth of one and a half or two feet, and so firm as to bear the weight of a man. There is a naked patch on the forehead of pure white ; hence the name of Bald Coot. The whole length of the Coot is sixteen inches. Y'arrcll. Genus— COLUMBID^. The Bing-dove, or Queest, of Dale : liing Dove of Pennant, Montagu, Bewick, Fleming, Selby, and of Jenyns : the /Food Pigeon of Gould : the Ring Dove, or JVood Pigemt, of Yaurell. Generic Characters, (according to Yarrell.) — Beak of moderate length, straight at the base, compressed, the point deflected. Base of the upper mandible covered with a soft skin in which the nostrils are pierced. Feet, three toes in front, entirely divided ; one toe behind. Wings of moderate length, rather pointed ; the first quUl-feather rather shorter than the second, which is the longest in the ■wing. Tail of twelve feathers, nearly even at the end. Most of the birds of the order of which this is a member, obtain the principal part of their food upon the gTound. The Ring Dove, so called from the white feathers which form a portion of a ring round its neck, is the largest wild pigeon in this country, and even in Europe. It is a constant resident in those portions, more especially of the British Islands, which are thickly clad with fir plantations. The Rmg Dove, or Wood Pigeon, is also called the Queest ; the latter name it has received on account of a tone of sadness which pervades its notes. The male and female sit by turns whilst hatching, and alternately feed then* young. The notes of this Dove may be heard here almost incessantly through the months of March and April. Ring Doves are in considerable e.-jtimation as [in article of food ; and one of tlie best motles of RESEAKCIIES B. 57 obtaining' a sliot at tlicm, is to be in waiting- under the trees upon which they come to roost. They may be recognised, when on the wing*, almost as far off" as any description of bird. Whole length of the male bird, seventeen inches -, the female is a little smaller. Yarrcll. Genus— COLUMBID^. The Stock-dove, or f Food- pigeon, of Dale: Stack Dove of Pennant, Seluy, Jenyns, Gould, and of Yarrell. This handsome bird is so called, not because it was by some considered to be the origin of our domestic stock, but because it builds in the stocks of trees, particularly such as have been headed down, and become in consequence rug-ged and bushy at the top. Mr. Salmon mentions his having known this bird to make its nest high up in a fir tree, like the Ring-dove j they also roost in trees, which the Rock and domestic Pigeons never do ; and unless under some particular circumstances, very seldom even settle in a tree at all. It does not coo Hke the Ring-dove, but utters a hollow rumbling- note, heard at intervals throughoiit the spring and summer months. It flocks with the Ring-dove in winter. Whole length of a male specimen, thirteen inches. The male is the larger bird, and his colours are more brilliant. Yarrcll. The Genus VITIFLORA of Ray, Belon, anb of Brisson. The Genus SYL"\1AD^ of modern Authors. The fFhcat-Ear of Dale : JVheutcar of Pennant, Montagu, Bewick, Selby, Jenyns, Gould, and of Yarrell. Generic Characters. — Beak straight, slender, the base rather broader than high, surrounded Avith a few stiff hairs ; the superior ridge of the upper mandible promment, the sides toAvards the point compressed ; the point itself cui-ved and indented. Nostrils basal, lateral, oval, half closed by a membrane. Wmgs — the first quill-feather about half as long as the second , the second shorter than the third or the foiurth, which are the longest in the wing. Feet — the tarsus rather long, three toes in front, one behind ; the outer toe connected by a membrane to the middle toe ; claw of the hind toe short, strong, and curved. The Wheatear, or Fallowchat, as it is sometimes calletl, arrives in great numl)ers hore in sj)i'ing. It feeds principally on worms rmd H n 58 RESEARCHES B. various insects, some of wliicli are taken on the wing*, tlie bivil returning' to its former elevation on a lump of earth, or the top of a tree, fi-om whence it keeps a sharp look-out, hoth as a measure of precaution as well as for food. The Wheatears begin to make their nest by the middle of April. Mr. Couch says — " Our prying fisher-boys inform me that it is con- cealed in the bottom of a deep recess, beneath some huge stone or rock, far beyond the reach of their arm. Consequently, when discovered — a circumstance of some difficulty — they are able to obtain it only by means of a hook fastened to the end of a rod." The Wheatear frequently makes its nest in old walls, or in pits from which stone, gravel, sand, or chalk have been dug- out, also in deserted rabbit-burrows. The male sing-s prettil}^, but not loud, sometimes even when hovering- on the wing-, either near his nest, or his partner. Mr. Sweet, in his British Warhkrs, says that, "in confinement the Wheatear is continually in song, and sing-s by night as well as by day ; their winter song is the best and the most varied." The whole length of the adult bird is six inches and a half. Yurrell. Genus— ANATID^. Subgenus— CYGNIXiE. T/ie fVikl Sunn, Elk, or Hooper, of Dale : Cygniis Ferus of Rat : Cygnus Musicus of Bechstein : the Hooper of Yarrell. Generic Characters. — Beak of equal breadth throughout its length ; higher than wide at the base ; depressed at the point ; both mandibles furnished along the sides with transverse serrated lamella;. Nostrils oblong, lateral, near the middle of the beak. Neck slender and very long. Legs short, the hind toe small and free. Hoopers, so called on account of the peculiar note uttered by these birds, visit us in the winter, arriving in flocks, sometimes as late as Christmas, and are generally more numerous as the weather becomes more severe. Like wild geese, these birds fly in the fashion of a wedge, making a fine melodious clang, wdiich has, perhaps, furnished one occasion to give a musical voice to this bird. In December various flocks are seen flying in compact bodies ; directing their course southward along- the coast lines. Colonel Hawker (quoted by Mr. Yarrell) says — " The Hoopers, before they have been RESEARCHES B. 59 shot at, are easier of access than many other wild birds ; and if, when flying", they are fired at directly under the hollow of the wing, or when swimming-, through the head, they may he stopped at a reasonable distance, witli a common double g'un and small shot ; perhaps even fjirther than other "^vild fowl, as, when struck in the body, they become helpless from their weight, and their heads are less Hkel}^ to escape between the shot than those of smaller fowl. No birds vary more in weight than Hoopers. In the winter of 1838, I killed them from thirteen to twenty-one pounds. On one occasion, I knocked down eig'ht at a shot, seven old ones and a brown one, and they averaged nineteen pounds each. The old gander was only winged ; and when he found himself overtaken by my man, he turned round and made a regular charge at him." Dale says — " This in winter-time is often shot upon this coast." The whole length of one specimen, from the point of the beak to the end of the tail, was five feet, weight twenty-four pounds. Yarrell, Sfc. Gents— AXATIDJE. The Bernicle, or Claxts, of Dale : Bernacle Goose of Pennant, SIontagv, Bewick, and of Fleming : the Bernicle Goose of Selbt, Jenyns, Govld, and of Yarrell. This very prettily-marked goose is another winter visitor here, appearing in considerable flocks, particularly when the weather is severe. They are natiu'alh' wild and shy, but when made captive, they veiy soon become as familiar as oiu* domestic geese, and have lived a very long time in confinement, in one instance as much as thu'tj'-two years. They are observed to frequent marshes on the coast, where they feed on the grasses, and the tender parts of aquatic plants. Their flesh is of good flavour. The whole length of an adult male was twenty-five inches. Yarrell. Genus— AXATID.E. The Brcnt-Goose of Dale : Brent Goose of Pennant, Montagv, BE^\^CK, Fleming, Selby, Jenyns, Gould, aiid of Yarrell. Of the various species of geese that visit us, this is the smallest and most numerous, and is also a good bu'd for the table. It is a 60 RESEARCHES B. reg'ular visitor to our sliore, and remains with us throughout tho winter. It passes a gi'eat portion of the day and night out at sea ; at other times, in immense numbers, fi-equenting- tlie extensive muddy flats and sand-bars which are exposed at every ebb-tide. Colonel Hawker observes — " In calm weather these geese have the cunning in general to leave the mud, as soon as the tide flows high enough to bear an enem}^, and then they go off to sea, and feed on the drifting weeds. To kiU Brent Geese by day, get out of sight in a small punt, at low water, and keep as near as possible to the edge of the sea. You will then hear their coming like a pack of hounds in fidl cr}', and they will repeatedly pass within fair shot, provided you are well concealed, and the weather is windy to make them fly low. Before you lire at them, spring suddenly up, and these awk- ward birds will be in such a fright as to hover together, and present a mark like a barn door. The Brent Geese, when fat, are excellent eating birds." The whole length of the adult male is twenty-one inches. The female is rather less. Yarrell. Genus— ANATID^. The Fochard, or great red -headed fVigeon, of Dale: Pochard Duck of Pennant : the Pochard of Montagu, Bewick, Fleming, and of Yaiueell : the Red-headed Pochard of Selby and of Gould : the Commnn Pochard of Jentns. The Pochard, or Dun-bird, or Red-headed Poker, or Red-eyed Poker, from the prevailing colour of the head, and the peculiar colour of the eye, not observed in any other British duck, visits our coast in the wintry season. Dun-birds are, in general, remarkable for the excellence of their flesh, and probably but little inferior to the far-famed Canvas- backed Duck of the United States, which it very closely resembles in the colour of its plumage, but our Dun-bird is the smaller duck of the two. Our bird is best whilst it feeds at the mouths of the rivers, but when it feeds at sea on fishes, Crustacea, and molusca, its flesh is coarse and ill-flavoured. They feed principally during the night. When these ducks are not excited or alarmed, their note is a low whistle, but at other times it is a rough croak. They are not RESEARCHES B. 61 SO slender and eleg-ant in form as wild ducks, but are short in the body, and depressed in form, swimming- low in the water, and are observed to be batl walkers on land, from the backward position of their legs ; an arrang-ement of great service to them as swimmers and divers. The whole leng-th of an adult male was nineteen inches and a half. Yarrell. Gexl-s— ANATID^. Subgexus— MERGANINiE. The Goosander, or Bergunder, of Dale : Goosander of Penxant, Moxtagu, Bewick, Selby, Jexyxs, Gould, and of Yarrell : the Dundiver of Pex- NAXT, MoxTAGt', and of Bewick : the Green-headed Goosander of Fleming. The Goosander, the largest of the British Mergansers, stays with us throughout the wanter. These birds usually make their appearance in November, especially in severe weather, and remain till the end of March ; but the greater proportion of them are females, or yonng' birds of the year 5 the fidly adult male may be considered as the most rare. During the occurrence of a severe frost they seek the shelter of deep bays, where, by their powers of diving, they are able to obtain a suppl}' of fisli, the principal object sought after as food. Possessing strong tooth-like processes on the bill, by which it is enabled to hold a slippery prey, this bird, like the Red-headed Merganser, is also called Sawbill and Jacksaw. Goosanders in any state rarely visit us. Mr. Selby says — "Six or seven are considered a large brood, and the careful mother has been seen, like the wild duck, to cany some of her offspring, occasionally on her back when in the water, as the parent swan is Icnown to do. Acerbi, in his Travels in Lapland, says — "The Merganser lays her eggs in a whole, in the middle of a decayed trunk, (at the foot of a pine or fir tree,) sometimes intentionally there placed, and which is near the bank of a river. These she is deprived of by a peasant in the following manner : — The bird having laid her eggs, the man comes and takes them aw^ay j she again lays two or three more, w'hich the man also takes away ; and this is repeated four or five times. After the peasant has in this manner procured about twenty eggs from the same nest, she is permitted to lay others for the G2 RESEARCHES B. increase of her kind. As soon as the eg'gs are Latclied, tlie motlier takes tlie chicks g'ently in her bill, and carries and lays them down at the foot of the tree, where she teaches them the Avay to the river, in which they instantly swim with an astonishing- rapidity," The whole length of an adult male was twenty-six inches and a half. The female is rather smaller than the male. Yarrell, Genus— ANATIDiE. The Teal of Dale, Pennant, Montagu, Bewick, Fleming, Je.nyns, and of Yahrell : the Common Teal of Selby and of Gould. This very prettily-marked species, the smallest of our ducks, but one of the best as an article of food, is an early and constant winter visitor, making' its appearance by the end of September, sometimes sooner than that, and remaining* with us till spring- has made considerable progress ; their numbers constantly recruited, through the winter months, by additional arrivals from the northern parts of Europe ; and our markets in conserpience obtain a regular supply from the various decoys and other modes of captiu-e. The food of the Teal consists of seeds, grasses, water-plants, and insects in their various states. In confinement they requii'e grain. The whole leng-th of an adult male was fourteen inches and a half. Yarrell. Genus— ANATID^. The Summer Teal of Dale : Gurganey Duck of Pennant : the Gargancy of Montagu, Eewick, Fleming, Jenyns, and of Yakrell : the Garganey Teal of Selby and of Gould. Intermediate in size between the Teal and the Wigeon, the Summer Teal, or Garganey, is rather a rare species, and though specimens have been seen in October, it more frequently makes its appearance in the spring, and then only in comparatively small numbers. These birds are then on their way to the south. Dr. E, Clarke speaks in terms of the highest praise of the delicate qualities of these birds as food. The voice, as noticed by Mr, Selby, is said to be a low hoarse croak. Their food consists of seeds, slugs, insects, and their lar vie. RESEARCHES B. 63 The wliolo length of an athilt male was sixteen inches. The females are smaller than the males. Yarrell. Genus— ANATID^E. The Gadira/l, or Grei/, of Dale : Gadwall Duck of Pexnant : the Gadu-all of Montagu, Bewick, Fleming, Jenyns, Gould, and of Yaukkll : the Common Gadivall of Selky. The Gadwall, or Grey Duck, as the term is intended to imply, is a rare species, occurring- sometimes in winter, but more frequenth' in the spring-, rather than at any other season of the year, ami then only in very limited numbers. The Gadwall has a vig-orous and rapid flig'ht, and hides itself among-st thick reeds and aquatic herbag-e. These ducks feed on vegetable mattei', aquatic insects, and small fish. The voice of this species is loud. Yarrell. Genus— ANATIDiE. The Blac/c-Dnck of Dale; T'elvet Duck of Pennant, Montagu, and of Bewick : the Velvet Scoter of Fleming, Selby, Jenyns, Gould, and of Yarrell. Generic C/iaructers. — Bill swollen or tuberculated at the base, large, elevated, and strong ; the tip much depressed and flattened, tennuiated by a large flat nail, which has its extremity rounded and slightly deflected ; mandibles laminated, with the plates broad, strong and widely set. Nostrils lateral, elevated, oval, and placed near the middle of the biU. Wings of mean length, concave, acute. Tail short, graduated, acute. Legs far behind the centre of gravity ; tarsi short ; feet large, of four toes, three in front and one behind. Outer toe as long as the middle one, and much longer than the tarsus ; hind toe with a large lobated membrane. — Selby. The Velvet Duck, or Black Duck, is only a winter visitor to our sea-shore. From its habits of diving, rather than flying, when approached, it is sometimes caught in the nets of our sea fishermen, by becoming entangled in the meshes, and it is occasionally caught also in the stake nets set for salmon, as noticed by Mr. Selby, who mentions " that, in those he had dissected, the gizzard, which was large and strong, was filled with the remains of various species of shelly moUusca, intermixed with the spawn of fish or crustaceous animals." 64 RESEARCHES B. This (luck is remarkably sliy, and its flesh is in no estimation. Mr. Dunn says — " It g-enerally feeds in the middle, or deep water, and in the stream of the tide." The whole length of an adult male was twenty-two inches. Yarrell. Genus— ANATID.E. The Sheldrake, or Buirough Duck, of Dale : Shieldrake of Pennant, Montagu, and of Bewick : the Common Shieldrake of Fleming, Seluy, Jenyns, and of Gould : the Common Shelldrake of Yarrell. The Shieldrake is one of the most beautiful in appearance of our ornamental water- fowl ; the various colours of its plumag-e are pure, brilhant, and strong-ly contrasted ; and the birds are retained in a state of domestication without difficulty. They are constantly found on the sea-coast during- the whole year, preferring- flat shores, sandy bars, and links, where it breeds in rabbit-burrows or other holes in the soft soil, and hence has obtained the name of the Burrow-Duck and Bar-Gander. The eg-g's are hatched under domestic hens, and the birds thus obtained are kept as ornaments on ponds. Incubation is said to last thirty days, during- which time the male watches near at hand, taking- his turn upon the eg-g-s morning- and evening-, while his mate g-oes off to pick up her hasty meal. When the young- are hatched they follow the parents, and in some situations are even carried by them in their bills to the water, where they soon learn to feed and take care of themselves. Their food is various, namely — sea-weed, bivalve and other shell mollusca, sandhoppers, sea-worms, marine insects, and the remains of shell fish. Mr. Yarrell found the stomach of this species filled with very minute bivalve and univalve mollusca only, as though they had sought no other food ; a predilection which he thinks may have g-iven rise to the name of Shell-drake, and the term of Shield-drake may have had its orig'in in the frequent use of this bird made in heraldry ; the family of Brassey, of Hert- fordshire, * and several other families in this country, bearing- in their arms this bird on their shield, and sometimes as a crest. In * Brassey bears quarterly, per f ess. indented sable and argent, in the first quarter, a Shieldi-akc. Crest on a mount — a Shieldrake. RESEARCHES B. 65 captivity they feed on grain of any sort, soaked bread, and vegetables. Their note is a shrill whistle. The flesh of the Shieldrake is coarse and bad, dark in colour, and unpleasant both in smell and flavour. Colonel Hawker says — "The young- birds, directly after being hatched in the rabbit-burrows, are taken by the parent-birds to the sea, where they may be seen in what the boatmen call troops, of from thirty to forty. They are the wildest of boys till half-starved by the freezing of the shell-fish, and then they become the tamest of all wild-fowl." In the Orkney Islands, Dr. Patrick Neill says — " It has got the name of Sly Goose, from the arts which the natives find it to employ to decoy them from the neighbom-hood of its nest ; it frequently feigns lameness, and waddles away with one wing trailing on the ground, thus inducing a pursuit of itself, till, judging its young to be safe from discovery, it suddenly takes flight, and leaves the outwitted Orcadian gaping with surprise." The whole length of adult male, twenty-four to twenty-six inches. YarrelL Genus— AN ATIDiE. The Scoter, or Macrusc, of Dale : Scoter of Pennant, Montagu, and of Bewick : the Black Scoter of Fleming, Selby, Jentns, and of Gould : the Common Scoter of Yarrell. The Common Scoter, or Macruse, is generally considered a winter visitor onl}^^ and during that season is to be seen in gi-eat numbers on our coast. The Scoter feeds almost exclusively on the soft bodies of mussels, and the animals of other bivalve shells, which they obtain by diving ; and they approach the shore generally "svith each flood-tide for the purpose of satisfying their appetite. The flesh of the Scoter is oily, and has a strong fishy taste j it is, in consequence, but seldom eaten in this country; but these same quahties are considered a recommendation elsewhere, for, being identified with fish, it is allowed by the Romish Church to be eaten in Lent, and on fast-days ; and so great is the demand for it, that various devices are in use on the sea-coast of Cathohc countries to obtain these ducks for the use of the table. The whole length of an adult male was nineteen inches. Yarrell. I I 6Q nESEARCHES B. Genus— ANATID^. The Sea-Pheasant, or Cracker of Dale : Pintail Duck of Flemixg, Mox- TAOU, Bewick, Goulu, and of Yarrell : Cracker of Fleming : Common Pintail of Selby. This handsome duck is a winter visitor to our shores, and one of those species which are taken when the decoys begin to be worked in October. It remains here tlirong'li the winter till the s})ring', and is obtained by wild-fowl shooters on the coast -, its flight is rapid. It is observed to feed by preference in shallow water, and it selects plants, insects, and their larvfe, and moUusca, This species is one of the best of our various ducks for the table ; the flesh is excellent' and in great esteem. The male birds are remarkable for the summer change that they constantly undergo in their plumage, which renders them, for a time, more like their females in appearance than any other species in which this change is observed. This alteration commences in July, when all the feathers gradually assume a bi-own tinge. At the annual autumn moult, the males again assume, with their new feathers, the colour peculiar to their sex, but the assumption is gradual. On the coasts of Dorsetshire and Hampshire, it is called the Sea Pheasant, on account of the length of its tail. They are by no means shy or difficult of access. The whole length of the male, somewhat influenced by the tail- feathers, is from twenty-six to twenty-eight inches. Yarrell. Gents-FRINGILLID^E. The White-ivinged Crossbill of Pennant, Fleming, Jenyns, Gould, Eyton, and of Yaurell. Some years ago, Mr. Seaman of Ipswich, who is well acquainted with birds, being out with his gun, looking for specimens, saw five or six small birds on a tree, which from their peculiar manners attracted his attention ; he fired and killed one, which proved to be a White-winged Crossbill ; but the more fortunate survivors did not alloAv him an opportunity of repeating the experiment. Whole length of the male, about six inches. Yarrell. RESEARCHES B, 67 / The Crooked- Dill of Dale : Common Crossbill oiVY.^sxtit, Selry, Jexyxs, GovLD, and of Yarrell : the Crossbill of MoxTAGr, Bewick and of Fleming. Generic Characters. — Beak rather long, thick at the base, much com- pressed, strong, very convex, the mandibles crossing each other at the points. Nostrils round, basal, lateral, defended by incumbent, setaceous feathers. Wings pointed ; the fii'st q\iill-feather the longest. Tai'sus very short ; toes and claws strong ; hinder toe longer than the tarsus ; claws curved and sharp. Tail short, forked. The history of the Common Crossbill, or Crooked-Bill, in this country, at least, is still involved in some obscurity 5 and though they were more abundant during- the greater part of 1830, 1837, and 1838, than had been known for some years before, no instance has occurred in which the eggs or nestlings were taken. Dale (A.D. 1730) says — " In these eastern parts frequently. The first time I did see it, was on an island below Maldon, called Northey, anno 1700, in the summer-time." These birds are most frequently seen in ilocks between the latter part of June and the beginning of February, some of which remain with us till May. Mr. Joseph Clarke, of Saffron Walden, has recorded his having seen them during every successive month of one entire year in the plantations about Saifron Walden, yet he could never learn that they then made any attempt to breed. The visits of this singular species to our shores happen at irregular periods, sometimes with intervals of many years. In the months of July and Axigust, their visits are made to those orchard countries where apples abound, the kernels or pips of which they manage, with their singularly-formed beaks, to cut down to and extract with ease ; and hence one of the old names by which this bird was known, that of Shell-apple, many have a double reference. Old females are the largest, and frequently measure seven inches in length ; young males are the smallest, and seldom measure more than six inches and a quarter in length. Yarrell, c^r. Genus— COLYMBIDyE. The Dob-chick, or Didupper, of Dale : Little Grebe of Pexxant, Montagu, 68 RESEARCHES B. Bewick, Fleming, Selby, Jen-i-ns, and of Ootjld : the Black-chin Grcle of Pennant, Montagu, and of Bewick : the Little Grebe, or Dabcldck, of Yarrell. Generic Characters. — A family of swimming birds ( Nutatores) having a smooth, straight, compressed, and pointed bill. The legs, placed more backward than in any of the other bii-ds, render walking a difficult operation, and oblige them, when on land, to keep them in a vertical position. As the greater part of them are, besides, bad fliers, inasmuch as some of them camiot fly at all, on account of the shortness of their wings, they may be regarded as almost exclusively attached to the surface of the waters. In accordance with this destmation, their plumage is more close-set, and sometimes it even ofiers a smooth siu-face and silvery hue. They swim imder the water, aiding themselves with theu' wings, nearly as if they were this. Their gizzard is sufficiently muscular, their caeca are moderate, and they have each a peculiar muscle on each side of their lower larynx. — Cuvier ; quoted by Penni/ Cyclopcedia, vol. ix. — Divers. The Little Grebe, or Didapper, or Dobcliick, or DabcMck, as it is more g'enerally called, is the smallest as well as the most common of the British Grebes. It remains here throug-hout tlie whole year. Mr. Selby remarks — " During- winter, Dabchicks betake themselves to the mouths of rivers and small retired bays, where they feed upon shrimps, fry of fish, and marine insects." Nares, in his Glos- sary, says that the term Didapper, applied to the Dabchick in some counties, means a little diver. The young' take to the water very soon, swimming- about with the parents in pursuit of aquatic insects and other food ; or diving-, to avoid danger, with all the apparent facihty and confidence that usually attend long practice. Whole length of adult bird, nine inches and a half. Yarrell. Genus— LARID^. The Herring-Gull of Dale : Herring GmW of Pennant, Montagu, Bewick, Fleming, Selby, Jenyns, Gould, and of Yarrell. This Gull, from its partiahty to fish, distingxiished by the name of Herring- Gull, feeds upon surface-swimming- fish, moUusca, and radiata. This species is particularly bold in approaching the boats and nets of the fishermen. The whole length of an adult bii-d is from twenty-two to twenty- four inches. Yarrell. RESEARCHES B. 69 Gexus— LARIDiE. Lafwing Sandpiper of Pennant, Montagu, and of Bewick ; Common Lapwing of Flejiing : Crested or Green Lapwing of Selby : Crested Lap- wing of Jenyns, and of Gould : The Lupiving, or Bastard Plover, of Dale. Generic Characters. — Bill shorter than the head, straight, slightly com- pressed ; the points of both mandibles horny and hard. Naval groove ■wide, and reachmg as far as the homy tip. Nostrils basal, linear, pierced in the membrane of the nasal groove. Legs slender, with the lower part of the tibise naked. Feet foiir toed ; three before, one behind, united at the base by a membrane ; hind toe very short, articulated upon the tarsus. Tarsi reticulated. Wings large, tubeiculated or spiu-red in front of the carpal joint ; the first three quill-feathers shorter than the foxxrth and fifth, which are the longest in the wing. The Lapwing-, or Peewit, or Blackcap, is one of the best known among-st our native birds ; the first name sug-g-ested by its pecuhar mode of flight — a slow flapping- of its long wing-s ; the second name having- reference to the fi-equently-repeated note of the bu-d — which the sound of the word '^ peeweet " closely resembles. The French, in imitation of the sound of its note, call this bird Dixhuit. This species, like the rest of the Plovers, inhabits marshy gTOund neai- lakes and rivers, wild heaths and commons, or the hills of an imen- closed country. In such locaHties this bird is often very numerous, and during- the months of April and May, theu- eggs are soug-ht after as a luxury for the table. In some parts a regular business is carried on in the collection of these eggsj men by practice have become so expert, that simply by observing the actions of the female bu-d they can, from a considerable distance, directly walk up to the nest. Dogs also are trained for the purpose of finding the eggs. The food of the Peewit consists of earth-worms, slugs, and other insects, in their various stages ; on which account these birds are frequently kept in gardens, and become very interesting pets. In the autumn they collect in flocks, and from that time till the winter are excellent birds for the table. Yarrell, 70 RESEARCHES B. ICTHYOLOGY. The Ictbj'-olog'ical department of Natural History Las already been referred to in onr pages. But though this may be sufficient for the g-eneral reader, those whose inquiries are of a less cursory nature, as well as tliose who may feel disposed to make this branch their particular study, may, perhaps, in the following' more detailed descriptions of the various I'amilies of the piscine race that visit our shores, receive profit in their perusal, the same having been carelVdly compiled from the researches of some of the most able writers on this subject. We shall commence with those fish whose escident properties constitute them to be such an important item in con- tributing towards the sustenance of the human race. GADID^ : THE FAMILY OF THE CoD-FISH. Codfish of WiLLUGHBY, and of Donovan : Cod-Fish, or Keeling, of Dale : Common Codfish of Pennant : Cod of Fleming : Cmnvton Cod of Jenyns and of Yarrell, Generic Characters. — Body elongated, smooth, compressed towards the tail ; back furnished with tliree dorsal fins ; ventral fins pointed ; abdominal lino with two fins behind the anal apertm'c ; the lower jaw with one barbulc at the chin ; branchiostcgous rays, seven. The Common Cod is not only one of those species most universally known, but it is also one of the greatest intrinsic value, whether we consider the quality of the fish itself, the enormous numbers in which it is taken, or the extensive range over which it exists. The Codfish is very voracious ; a favourable circumstance for the fisher- men, who experience little difficulty in taking them with almost any bait whenever a favourable locality is ascertained. As these fish generally inhabit deep water, from twenty-five to forty, and even fifty fiithoms, and feed near the ground on various small fish, worms, Crustacea,* and testacea, their capture is only attempted with lines and hooks. Two sorts of fines, adapted for two very difi"erent modes of fishing, are in common use. One mode is by deep-sea lines, called " bulters " on the Cornish coast ; these are long lines with hooks fastened at regular distances along their whole * Mr. Couch has taken thirty-five crabs, none less than the size of a half- crown piece, from the stomach of one Cod. RESEARCHES B. 71 leng'tli, by shorter and smaller cords called "snoods;" tlie snoods are eacli six feet long-, and placed on the long- line twelve feet from each other, to prevent the hooks becoming- entang-led. Near the hooks these shorter hnes, or snoods, are formed of separate threads loosely fastened tog-ether, to guard ag-ainst the teeth of the fish. Some variations occur at different parts of the coast, as to the number of hooks attached to the line, as well as in the leng-th of the snood; but the distance on the long- line between two snoods is always double the length of the snood itself. Buoys, buoj'-ropes, and anchors or grapples, are fixed one to each end of the long- line ; the hooks are baited with sandlaunce, limpet, whelk. Sec. : the lines are always laid, or as it is termed, shot across the tide, for if the tide nms upon the end of the line, it will force the hooks together, by which the whole tide's fishing- is irrecoverably lost ; they are deposited g-enerally about the time of slack water, between each ebb and flow, and are taken up or hauled for examination after being left about six hours, or one flood or ebb. An improvement upon this more common plan was, some years ago, suggested by Mr. Cobb, who was sent to the Shetlands by the commissioners appointed for the improvement of the fisheries. He fixed a small piece of cork within a certain distance of the hook, about twelve inches, which suspended and floated the bait so as to prevent its falhng on the ground ; by which method the bait was more freely shown to the fish, by the constant and variable motion produced upon it by the tide. In the old way, the bait was fre- quently hid from the fish by being- covered with sea-weed, or was consumed by some of the numerous star-fish and crabs that infest the ground. The fishermen, when not engaged in shooting-, hauhng, or rebaiting the long lines, fish with hand-lines, armed with two hooks kept apart by a strong piece of wire ; each fisherman manages two lines, holding one line in each hand ; a heavy weig'ht is attached to the lower end of the line, not far from the hooks, to keep the bait down near the groimd, where the fish principally feed. These two modes of hne-fishing are practised to a great extent nearly all round the coast, and enormous quantities of Cod, &c. are taken. Well-boats for preserving alive the fish taken at sea, came into use in this country early in the last century. They are said to \in\o 72 RESEARCHES B. been first built at Harwich, about the year 1712. The store-boats remain do^\Ti as low as Gravesend, because the water is sufficiently mixed to keep the fish alive ; if they were to come higher up, it would kill them. In a natural state the Cod spawns about February, and nine million of ova have been found in the roe of one female. The Cod is in the g-reatest perfection as food from the end of October to Christmas. It may, in fact, be said of the whole family of the Codfish, that they are in the best condition for the table during* the cold months of the year. The young" of the Cod are about six inches long" by the arrival of summer ; as autumn advances, they gain size and strength, and are caug-ht from twelve to sixteen inches in length by lines near sandbanks. When of the size of Whiting-s, they are called Codlings and Skinners, and when larger. Tumbling or Tamhn Cod. A very larg*e Codfish, weighing sixty pounds, was caught in the Bristol Channel, and produced five shillings; it was considered cheap there at one penny the pound. Pennant, however, states that a Codfish, of seventy-eight pounds weight, was caught at Scar- borough, and sold for one shilling. There appear to be two T»-ell-marked varieties of the Common Cod, one with a sharp nose, elongated before the eye, and the body of a very dark brown colour, which is usually called the Dogger Bank Cod. The other variety has a round blunt nose, short and wide before the eyes, and the body of a light yellowish ash-green colour, and is frequently called the Scotch Cod. Both sorts have the lateral Hne white. The length of a specimen was thi'ee feet, and the weight about twelve pounds. Yarrell. GADID^. Hadock of "Willughbt, and of Pennant : Haddock of Dale, Fleming, Donovan, Jentns, and of Yarrell, The Haddock, or St. Peter's Fish, is almost as well known as the Common Cod, and from the quantity taken at numerous localities round the coast, and the facility with which the flesh can be pre- served, it is a fish of considerable value. Haddocks swim in immense RESEARCHES B. 73 slioals, but are uncertain as to their appearance in places that had been formeily visited, and they are prone to change their ground after having- arrived. The enormous consumption of food; even in a short space of time, when the number of mouths is considered, may be one powerful reason for seeking new localities. They are probably more abundant along our eastern coast, from Yarmouth to the Tyne, than elsewhere. There they are caught with long- lines and hand-lines, and the most attractive baits are pieces cut from the herring or sandlaunce. Where the trawl-net is constantly in use, the Haddock, feeding near the bottom, is frecpiently taken in the trawl. The most common weight of a Haddock, is fi'om two to four pounds. Mr. Yarrell saw Haddocks of ten pounds' weight in the London market ; the Brixham trawling-gi'oimd has produced Haddocks of fourteen pounds ; but the largest seen for some years past weighed sixteen pounds, and was taken in Dublin Bay. Haddocks spawn in February and March, and the young- are six inches long by the beginning of September. The food of the Haddock consists of small fish, Crustacea, and almost any of the inferior animals of the deep. They are in the best condition for the table during the last three months of the year. The French fisher- men call the Haddock " Hadof,'" whence probably our name was derived. Average length, about twenty inches. YurreU. GABIDJE. Hake of Willughby, Pennant, and of Donovan : t/ie Hake of Dale and of Yarrell : Conunon Hake of Fleming and of Jentns. Generic Characters. — The head flattened; the body elongated; the back furnished -with two dorsal fins ; the first short, the second long ; but one anal fin, also A-ery long ; no barbide at the chin. — Yarrell. According to Mr. Couch — " The Hake is a roving fish, without much regularity in its movements. From January to April, which is its season for spawning', it keeps near the bottom, and loses the gTeat voracity by which it is characterised at other times, so that multitudes of them are caught in trawls, and but few with a line ; but, when Pilchards approach the shores, it follows them, continuing in incalculable numl^ers through the winter. It rarely happens that K K 74 RESEARCHES B. Pilchards are taken in a sean without many Hakes being* enclosed with them j and thus, when the net remains in the water for several days, they have an opportunity of glutting- tliemselves to their hearts' desire, which is to such an extent as to render them helpless. I have seen seventeen Pilchards taken from the stomach of a Hake, of ordinary size. Their digestion, however, is quick, so that they speedily get rid of theii* load, and fishermen observe that, when hooked, the Hake presently evacuates the contents of the stomach to faciHtate its escape ; so that when hundreds are taken with a line, in the midst of prey, not one will have an}i;liing- in its stomach ; when near the surface, however, this rejection does not take place until after they are dragged on board." It is a voracious fish, as its systematic name of 3Ierluchis — sea-pike, implies. It is a coarse fish, not admitted to the tables of the wealthy j but larg-e numbers are annually preserved both by salting* and drying-. Dale says — " When salted and dried, it is called Poor Jack." Length of a specimen, three feet eight inches. Yarrcll, S^-c. GKDIDM. The Whiting of Dale, Flemixg, WiLLroHBT, Pennant, Donovan, Jenyns, and of Yarrell. The Whiting is well known with us for the excellence of its flesh, surpassing- in delicacy that of any of the other species of the valuable family of fishes to which it belong-s ; the pearly whiteness of its flaky muscles, added to its extreme lig-htness as an article of food, recommend it particularly to invahds who are unable to dig-est more solid nutriment. Whiting's of several pounds' weight have been caught as far north as the Dog-ger Bank. The fishing for Whiting-, with lines, is pursued nearly throug-hout the year ; but the fish is most plentiful in the months of January and February, when it comes in large shoals towards the shore for the purpose of depositing its spawn, and is taken in abundance within half-a-mile, and seldom exceeding three miles from land. The Whiting is a voracious feeder, and seizes indiscriminately any of the moUusca, worms, small Crustacea, and young fishes. Mr. Yarrell took several sprats from the inside of a Whiting of four RESEARCHES B. 75 pounds' weig'lit. It appears to prefer sandy banks, but shifts its gTOund frequently in pursuit of the various fry of other fishes, upon which it principally subsists. The young- fish are sometimes called Whiting- Mops. The most usual size is from twelve to sixteen inches in length, and weig-hing about one pound and a half. Yarrell, S^c. GABIDJE. Whiting Pollack of "Willughby and of Donovan : The Whiting Pollack of Dale : Pollack of Pennant, Jentns, Fleming, and of Yarrell. Mr. Low, in his Natural History of the Orkneys, says — " They are frequently caug-ht close in with the shore, almost among the sea-ware, and in deep holes among the rocks. They seem to be a very frolicsome fish ; and I have been several times fisliing- for them when they would keep a constant plashing in the water. They bite keenly, scarce allowing the hook to be in the water before one or other jumps at it. They are better eating- than the Coalfish." Hand-line fishing for Pollacks, Mackerel, &c. is called " whiffing." Montagu says, it has been purchased for Whiting. When it is only twelve or fourteen inches long the flesh has much the appearance and delicacy of that fish. Mr. Couch says — " The Pollack is at all seasons one of our most common fishes, but it is not gregarious except in pursuit of prey j and it rarely wanders far from its usual haunts, which are along- the edges of rocks, where, with the head directed towards the coming tide, it is ready for any prey that approaches. In summer evenings, they are often seen eager in pm-suit of the Sandlaunce, frequently spring from their element, and are often taken by anglers from the rocks and piers." The Pollack spawns in winter, and near the land ; and the young abound near the edge of the tide in rocky ground at the beginning of summer. Yarrell. GADID^. Bib of Willughby, Penn.vnt, Donovan, Fleming, and of Jenyns : Whiting Pont of Willughby : the Whiting-pout of Dale : Pout of Pennant, Fleming, and of Jenyns : Blinds of Willughby : Bib, Pout, and Whiting Pout of Yarrell. 76 RESEARCHES B. The Bib; or Pout, tlioiig-li not aljimdiint; is yet a well-known species, which is found on many parts of our coast, particularly those that are rocky. From a dark spot at the orig-in of the pectoral fin, in which it resembles the Whiting', one of its most common names is Whiting- Pout; and from a singidar power of inflating- a membrane which covers the eyes and other parts about the head, which, when thus distended, have the appearance of bladders, it is called Pout, Bib, Blens, and Blinds.* The flesh is excellent ; and, like most of the other fishes of this family, it is in the best condition for the table in November and December, Its food is small fisli and the various animals allied to the shrimps. It is most frequently caug-ht in spring-, because it then approaches the shore for the pur- pose of spawning-. A very large specimen measured in leng-th sixteen inches. Yarrel/. PLEURONECTID^ : — tue family of the Flounders, populakly called Flat-fish. Turhot of Willugiiby, Pennant, Donovan, Fleming, Jenyns, and of Yarrell : the Turhot, or Brett, of Dale. Generic Characters. — Coloiu* and eyes on the left side ; teeth in the jaws and pharynx ; dorsal fin commencing anterior to the upper eye ; dorsal and anal fins extending very nearly to the tail. — Yarrel. The Turbot, so well known, so highly and so justly esteemed, is considered the best, as it is also one of the largest of our Flat-fishes ; and like the Salmon, notwithstanding its great excellence, and the vast numbers that are caught in various ways, it is still in great abundance. A large proportion of the Turbot produced in the English market is taken on or near the various sandbanks between the long- line of our eastern shoi'e and the coast of Holland. Though very considerable quantities of this fish are now taken on various parts of our own coasts, yet a preference is given, in the London market, to those caught by the Dutch, v»^ho are supposed to have drawn not less than £80,000 a year for the supply of this market alone ; and the Danes from £12,000 to £15,000 a year for sauce to * Probably derived from Bleb and Bluin, two old words, meaning a blister or a bubble in the water. RESEARCHES B. 77 this luxury of the table, extracted fi-om one million of lobsters, taken on the rocky shores of Norway — thoug-h our own shores are plentifully supplied with this marine insect, equal in goodness to those of Norway. Mr. Couch says — " the Turbot keeps in sandy g-roimd, and is a great wanderer, usually in companies ; and though its proper habita- tion is close to the bottom, it sometimes mounts aloft, and I have known it upon the surface, over a depth of thirty fathoms." The Turbot, although a voracious fish, is particular as to the quality of its food ; the bait used should be very fresh ; if it happens to be in the least degree tainted, the Turbot will not touch it. The most enticing baits to use are those small fishes which are either very bright in colour or very tenacious of life ; the Atherine, the Sea- Scorpion, and the Father-lasher are most frequently used ; the first attracts by its silvery appearance, and the others by living a long time on the hook, and showing themselves in their struggles to get free. The principal food of the Turbot is small fish, Crustacea, and mollusca. It spawns about August, but rapidly recovers its con- dition and firmness. The most common size varies from five to ten pounds' weight ; occasionally this fish attains to twenty pounds and sometimes even to thirty pounds. Sir Thomas Browne seems to have been quite aware of the good qualities of Turbot and Brill as compared to Plaice, Floxmders, and Dabs, he says — " Of A^Ty-moutlied fish, give me the left side black ; Except the sole, which hath the daintiest smack." The number of Turbot brought to Billingsgate market within twelve months, up to a recent period, was 87,958, and the number of lobsters, within the same period, 1,904,000. Yarrell, S^c. PLEURONECTID^. yl Sole of Merkett : Sole of Willugiiey, Lixx.T.rs, Pexnaxt, Flemixg, aud of Jexyns : the Sole of Dale and of Yaukell. It inhabits sandy shores, where it keeps close to the bottom, feeding on the smaller testaceous animals, and the spawn and fry of other fishes. Soles — and of these an enormous quantity — are 78 RESEARCHES B. caught almost entirely by trawling; tliey seldom take any bait. It is usual to send them to market in baskets, within which the Soles of small size, called " slips/' are arranged nearest the wicker- work forming the outside of the basket ; the larger Soles, being more valuable, are packed in the middle. Eighty-six. thousand bushels of Soles have been received at Billingsgate market only within twelve months. The Sole is found full of roe at the latter end of February. They are then for a few weeks soft and watery ; but they soon recover, and, throughout a great portion of the year, are deservedly in high estimation. Yarrell. PLEURONECTID^. The Fluke of Willtjghbt and LiNN.a:us : the Flounder, or Fluke, or But, of Dale : Flounder of Pennant, Donovan, Fleming, Jenyns, and of Yau- KELL. The Flounder is one of the most common of the Flat-fish, and is found in the sea and near the mouths of rivers, being more particularly abundant where the bottom is soft sand, clay, or mud. The Flounder lives and thrives whether stationary in the sea, the brackish water, or the fresh water. It feeds upon aquatic insects, worms, and small fishes, and has been known to acquire the weight of four pounds, but is not usually seen so large. It spawns in February or March, and the young Flounders may be seen alive by the end of April. The roughness of the lateral line in the Flounder, and its smoothness in the Plaice, is a distinguishing character in these two species, however similar they may happen to be in colour or size. Yarrell. PLEURONECTID^. Plaise of Willughby, Pennant, and of Fleming : Ike Flaise of Dale : Common Plaice of Jenyns : tlie Plaice of Yarkell. On our coast the Plaice is taken in abundance generally wherever either lines or trawl-nets can be used. The Plaice spawns in February or March, and is considered to be in the finest condition for the table at the end of May. Plaice feed on soft-bodied animals, generall}', with young fish and small Crustacea, and have been known to attain the weight of fifteen pounds ; but one of seven or RESEARCHES B. 79 eig'lit pounds' weig-lit is considered a Plaice of large size. It is taken sometimes in almost incredible numbers. Like other ground-fish, all the Flat-fishes are very tenacious of life. Yan-el/. PLEURONECTIDiE. The Pearl, or Pril, or Lug-a-leaf, of Dale : Fearl of Pennant : Brill of Donovan, Fleming, Jentns, and of Yaerell. The Brill is procured from the same localities and by the same modes as the Turbot 5 but is not held in equal estimation, being considered by some as inferior to the sole, but very superior to the Plaice. Its food and season of spawning; are similar to the Turbot, but it does not usually appear so large, seldom exceeding eight pounds in weight. Yarrell. PLEURONECTID^. The Dub, or Sanderlmg, of Dale : Common Dab of Yarrell, The Dab is common to all the sandy parts of the coast, and is usually caught along with Plaice and Flounders ; but is immediately distinguished from either by its more uniform and lighter brown colour, its more curved lateral Hue, and the roughness of the scaly surface. The Dab feeds on small fish, Crustacea, and testacea ; and is in best condition for the table in February, March, and April. Its flesh is considered superior to that of the Plaice or Floimder ; Cuvier says, it is in higher estimation in Paris than the Flounder, because it bears carriage better. It spawns in May or June ; it inhabits deeper water generally than the Flounder ; and on some parts of the coast is caught both by sea-lines and hand-lines, the hooks of which are baited with the usual marine sand-worm, or a portion of the body of some of the testaceous mollusca. The size of the Dab is commonly about eight or nine inches in length, and seldom exceeds twelve inches. Yarrclt. CLUPEIDiE : — the family of the Herrlngs. Herring of Ray, Pennant, Fleming, and of Jenyns : the Herring of D^u,e and of Yarrell. 80 RESEARCHES B. Generic C/na'acters. — Body compressed ; scales large, thin, and deciduous ; head compressed ; teeth minute, or "wanting ; a single dorsal fin ; abdominal line forming a sharp keel-like edge, which in some species is serrated ; bran- chiostegous rays, eight. According' to Pennant, the word Hernng- is derived from the German Heer — an arni}', to express their numhers. It is a most capricious fish, seldom remaining' long- in one place, and there is scarcely a fishing-station round the British Islands that has not experienced in the visits of this fish the greatest variations, both as to time and quantity, without any accountable reason. Our common Herring' spawns towards the end of October or the beginning' of November ; and it is for two or three months previous to this, when they assemble in immense numbers, that the fishing- is carried on, which is of such great and national importance. "And here," Mr. Couch observes, " we cannot but admire the economy of Divine Providence, by which this and several other species of fish are brought to the shores, within reach of man, at the time wlien they are in their highest perfection, and best fitted to be his food." The mode of fishing for Herring is by drift-nets, very similar to those employed for taking IMackerel and Pilchard, with a slight difference in the size of the mesh. The net is suspended by its upper edge from the drift- rope, by various shorter and smaller ropes, called buoy-ropes ; and considerable practical skill is required in the arrangement, that the net may hang with the meshes square, smooth, and even in the water, and at the proper depth ; for according to the wind, tide, situation of their food, and other causes, the Herrings swim at various distances below the surface. The size of the boat used depends on the distance fi'om shore at which the fishery is carried on ; but whether in deep or shallow water, the nets are only in actual use during the night. It is found that the fish strike the nets in much gi'eater numbers when it is dark than whilst it is light : tlie darkest nights, therefore, and those in which the surface of the water is ruffled by a breeze, are considered the most favourable. It is supposed that nets stretched in the day-time alarm the fish, and cause them to quit the place where that practice is followed ; it is, therefore, strictly forbidden. The Herring, having spawned, retires to deep water, and the fishing ends for that season. Whilst RESEARCHES B. 81 inhabiting- the depths of tlie ocean, its food is said hy Dr. Knox, to consist principally of minute entomostracous animals ; but it is certainly less choice in its selection when near the shore. Dr. Neill found five young* Herrings in the stomach of a large female Herring ; he has also known them to be taken by the fishermen on their lines, the hooks of which were baited with Limpets ; and they have been repeatedly caught b}' anglers with an artificial fly. They are known to feed upon minute Crustacea, small medusae, and the spawn and fiy of fishes. Many Herrings are caught here in the nets used for taking Sprats. YarrelL CLUPEIDyE. The Pilchard of Dale and of Yarrell ; PUchard of Pexnant, Doxovan, Fleming, and of Jenyns. The sean-fishery commences in August, and continues until the shortened days and stormy weather of the equinox render its further prosecution impracticable ', but the fish continue to appear, some- times in great numbers, untd the conclusion of the year. The season and situation for spawning, and the choice of food, are the chief causes which influence the motions of the great botlies of these fish. In some years considerable bodies of Pilchards shed spawn in the month of May, in the middle of the channel, where they have been taken, heavy with roe, in drift-nets, shot for Mackerel. It seems certain that they do not breed twice in the year, and that the larger body do not perform this function until October, and then at no great distance from the shore. They feed with voracity on small crustaceous animals, and their stomachs have been found crammed each with thousands of a minute species of slu-imp, not larger than a flea. They are probably seeking this kind of suste- nance, when fishermen report they have seen them lying in nn^riads quietly at the bottom, examining with their mouths the sand or small stones in shallow water. From five thousand to ten thousand Pilchards, taken by a drift- boat in a night's fishing, is considered moderate; it often amounts to twenty thousand. For the season's fishing, about one hundred and fifty thousand would be deemed fiivourable. L L 82 RESEARCHES B. Specimens of this fish sometimes measure eleven inches in length. It much resembles the Herring-, but is smaller and thicker. Yarrell. CLUPEID.E. The Sprat of Dale : Sprat of Pennant, Jenyns, and of Yarrell. Though a much less valuable fish than the Herring, it is still a very useful one. Coming into the market in immense quantities and at a very moderate price, immediately after the Herring season is over, it supplies during all the winter months of the year, a cheap and agreeable food. Large quantities are eaten, and from their rich quality and flavour, the consumption is not solely confined to tlie lower classes. They are generally cooked whilst fresh, but are also preserved in various ways. The fishing season begins earl}-- in November, continuing through the winter months, and the largest quantities are taken when the nights are dark and foggy. A few, and those of the best descrip- tion, are taken in the same manner as the Mackerel, the Pilchard, and the Herring, by drift-nets of fine twine and suitable small mesh ; but the most destructive plan pursued against Sprats is by " stow- boat fisliing," by means of which, an enormous quantity of Sprats, with the fry of many other species, are taken, which are principally sold by measure to manure land near the coast. From four hundred to five hundred boats are thus employed during the winter. IMany thousand tons in some seasons, are taken and sold at six-pence and eight-pence the bushel, depending on the supply and demand, to farmers, who distribute about forty bushels of Sprats over an acre of land, and sometimes manure twenty acres at the cost of a shilhng an acre. A full sized Sprat measures six inches in length, and rather more than one inch and an eighth in depth. Yarrell. SCOMBERIDiE : — the family of the Mackerel. Mackrel of Dale : Common Mackrel of Pennant : Mackcirel of Donovan : Mackerel of Fleming and of Yarrell : Common Mackarel of Jenyns. Generic Churactcrs. — Scales on the body small and smooth ; vertical fbis not bearing scales ; two dorsal fins widely separated ; some of the posterior rays of the second dorsal and the anal fin free, forming iinlets ; sides of the RESEARCHES B. 83 tail slightly carinated ; one row of small conical teeth in each jaw ; the parts of the gill-cover without denticulations or spines ; branchiostegous rays, seven. — Yarrell. The Mackerel spawns in June; and, according- to Blocli, five hundred and forty tliousand ova have been counted in one female. The young- Mackerel, which are called " Shiners," are from four to six inches long- by the end of Aug-ust. They are half-g-rown by November ; " when they retire," says Mr. Couch, " to deep water, and are seen no more that winter ; but the adult fishes never wholly quit the Cornish coast ; and it is common to see some taken with lines m every month of the year." Their principal food is probably the fry of other fish. The Mackerel, as feeders, are voracious, and their gTowth is rapid. The ordinary length varies from fourteen to sixteen inches, and about two pounds' weig'ht ; but they ai-e said to attain the leng-th of twenty inches, with a proportionate increase in weight. The larg-est fish are not, however, considered the best for the table. As an article of food, they are in g-reat request ; and those taken in the months of May and June are generally considered to be superior in flavour to those taken either earlier in spring or in autumn. To be eaten in perfection, this fish should be very fi-esh ; as it soon becomes unfit for food, some facilities in the way of sale have been afforded to the dealers in a commodity so perishable. Mackerel were first allowed to be cried through the streets of London on a Sunday in 1C98, and the practice prevails to the present time. The Mackerel season is one of great bustle and activity. The fi-equent departures and arrivals of boats at this time form a lively contrast to the more ordinary routine of other periods ; the high price obtained for the early cargoes, and the large return gained generally from the enormous numbers of this fish sometimes captured in a single night, being the inducement to great exertions. The value of the catch of sixteen boats from Lowestoft, on the 30th of June, 1821, amounted to £5,252 ; and it is supposed that there was no less an amount than £14,000 altogether realized by the owners and men concerned in the fishery of the Suffolk coast.* * In an interesting and useful sketch of the Natural Histort/ of Yarmouth and its Neighbourhood, by C. and J. Paget, it is stated, at page 16, that in. 1823, 1 12 lasts of Mackerel were taken there. A last is 10,000. 84 RESEARCHES B. The most common mode of fisLing- for Mackerel, and the way in which the greatest numbers are taken, is by drift-nets. The drift- net is twenty feet deep, by one hundred and twenty feet long- ; well corked at the top, but without lead at the bottom. They are made of small fine twine, which is tanned of a reddish-brown colour, to preserve it fi-om the action of the sea- water; and it is thereby rendered much more durable. When a vessel is laden with her complement of fish, she runs back into harbour with her freight, or depositing the same on board some other boat in company, that carries for the party to the nearest market, the fishing-vessel remains at sea for the next night's operation. The Mackerel is one of the most beautiful of fishes. The name is said to be derived from the Latin mactdarkis, in allusion to its spotted appearance, and it is called in most of the countries of Europe, by terms that have reference to its variegated and chequered appearance. Yarrell, MUGILID^. Mullet of Dale : Grey Mullet of Pexxaxt, Donovan, Jexyns, and of Yar- KELL : Common Mullet of Fleming. Generic Characters. — Body, nearly cylindrical, covered -w-ith large scales ; two dorsal fins, widely separated, tlie rays of the first fin spinous, those of the second flexible ; ventral fins behind the pectorals ; middle of the under jaw with an elevated angular point, and a coiTcsponding groove in the upper ; teeth small ; branchiostegous rays, six. — Yarrell. This fish occurs constantly on our coast. Mr. Couch says, it " never goes to a great distance from land, but delights in shallow water when the weather is warm and fine. It ventures to some distance up rivers, but always returns with the tide. The Mullet displays considerable skill and vigilance in avoiding danger. When enclosed within a ground-sean or sweep-net, as soon as the danger is seen, and before the limits of its range are straitened, and when even the end of the net might be passed, it is its constant habit to prefer the shorter course, and throw itself over the head-line, and so escape ; and when one of the company passes, all immediately follow. The Grey Mullet selects food that is soft and fat, or such as has begun to suffer decomposition ; in search of which it is often RESEARCHES B. 85 seen tlirusting* its mouth into the soft mud ; and for selecting' it, the lips appear to be furnished vnth exquisite sensibility of taste. The Grey Mullets shed their spawn about Midsummer; and the young- in August, then an inch long*, are seen entering- the fresh water, keeping* at some distance above the tide, but retiring as it recedes. The change and re-chang-e from salt water to fresh seems necessary to their health, as has been conceived from their having been kept in glass vessels. The Grey Mullet is frequently an object of sport to the angler. They rise freely at the flies used for Trout, and even at the larger and more gaudy flies used for Salmon. They are reported to be strong* in the water, and require care in the man- ag*ement of them, as they plunge violently. The best time for ang*ling* for them is when the tide is coming* in ; as, w^hen it ebbs, they return to salt water. The fry of the Grey Mullet have grown to four pounds' w^eight in a fresh-water pond ; these had been put in when about the size of a finger, and had attained this weight in a few years.* They proved to be fatter, deeper, and heavier for their length than others obtained from the sea. Yarrell. SALMONID^ : — the family of the Salmon axd Tkout. Smelt of WiLLUGHBY, Dale, Pexxaxt, Doxovax, Fleming, Jenyxs, and of Yarrell. Generic Characters. — Body elongated, coA'ered -with small scales ; two dorsal fins, tlie first with rays, the second fleshy, Avithoiit rays ; venti'al fins in a vertical line under the commencement of the first dorsal fin ; teeth, on the jaws and tongue, very long, two distinct rows on each palatine bone, none on the vomer, except at the most anterior part ; branchiostegous rays, eight. — Yarrell. The Smelt inhabits fresh water from Aug'ust to May. After spawning* in March, or the beginning of April, they return to the sea. The ova are small and yellowish in colour. The fry are foimd about three inches long, swimming* near the surface in shoals in the rivers in the month of August, ascending* and descending* with the tide, when the adult fish are again visiting the fi'esh water. Their * Of this fish Dale says — " Of the ova or spa'\\m of the females, salted and dried, is made Butarg, which quickens a depraved appetite, excites thirst, and a gust to wine." 86 RESEARCHES B. food is small fish^ with crustaceous and testaceous animals. Two modes of fishing' for Smelts are in practice — they are taken on the sandy shallow shores of the sea, and the other is the river-fishing-, with the tide-way. The particidar cucumber-like smell of this fish is well known, and it is very considerably more powerful when they are first taken out of the water. The Smelt is generally in g-reat request from its delicate and peculiar flavour. This quality, coupled with the circumstance of the fish passing six or seven months of the year in fresh water, has induced two or three experi- ments to retain it in ponds, one of which was attended with complete success, the fishermen, of the Tees, declaring- that they had never seen a finer lot of Smelts. There was no loss of flavour or quality. The Smelt averages about seven inches in length. Yitrrell. Of the Family with Hard Cheeks. Red Gurnard, or Cuckoo Gurnard, of Yarrell, &c. Generic Characters. — Head nearly square, covered with bony plates ; gill- cover and shoulder-plate ending in a spiiae directed backwards ; body elon- gated, nearly round : two dorsal fins, the rays of the first spinous, those of the second flexible ; teeth in both jaws and on the front of the vomer pointed, small and numerous ; branchiostegous rays, seven ; gUl-opening large ; three detached rays at the base of each pectoral fin. — Yarrell. They are chiefly caught by the trawl-net used in deep water ; as the Gurnards mostly swim near the bottom, and are tenacious of life after they have been taken from the sea. Excellent amusement is occasionally to be obtained by fisliing- for them with hand-lines, the hooks baited with a shining- silvery piece of a Sandlaunce. The Red Gurnard is very common on our coast. It feeds on Crustacea, and spawns in May or June. Their flesh is good food, and they are in g-reatest perfection about October, and throug-h the winter months, The colour of the body of this fish, when quite fresh, is a beautiful bright red, the sides and belly silvery white ; the colour of the fins reddish white, becoming- paler the second or third day after the fish has been caug-ht. The members of this species are remarkable for the various forms of their swimming- bladders. The names of C'tccuhis and Cuckoo Gurnard are said to have been RESEARCHES B. 87 given to tliis species on account of the similarity in the sound wliich issue from this fish when taken out of the water, to the note of the well-known bird. Its averag-e length is twelve or fourteen inches. Yarrcll. The Family with Hard Cheeks. Grey Gitrnard, ov Cuckow-Fish of Dale: Grey Gurnard of Pennant, Donovan, Fleming, Jenyns, and of Yaerell. The Grey Gurnard, or Knoud, or Noud, or Crooner, is much more common than the Piper, and is easily distinguished by its shorter pectoral fins, and by its elongated and slender body, generally of a greenish brown colour, spotted with white above the lateral line. This species was first described by Belon. It spawns in May or June. Its flesh is considered to be of inferior flavour to that of the Red Gurnard. " The northern provincial name. Crooner," says Dr. G. Johnston of Berwick, " may have reference either to the hard and somewhat peculiarly-shaped head of this fish, from "croon," the top of the head ; or it may be derived from the verb " croon," — viz. to hum an air in an xinmusical tone, because of the peculiar noise which the fish sometimes utters on being taken fi'om the water." A writer in the 3fagazine of Zoology and Botany, says — "They were often discovered by their noise, a dull croak or croon, whence, most probably, their provincial name of Crooner, or by the ripple or plough of their nose on the surface of the calm sea ; thus they would swim for a few yards, and then languidl}' sink for a foot or eighteen inches, display and stretch their lovely fins, and again rise to the top. Boats were out with hand-lines, almost all were half- full, the men having little to do but bait the hooks and pidl up. We resorted to our guns, and killed sufficient for dinner from the deck of the vessel," Average length, about seven or eight inches. Yarrcll. The Family with Hard Cheeks. Piper of Dale, Pennant, Donovan, Fleming, Jenyns, and of Yarhell. The Piper is at once distinguished from the other species of British Gurnards, by the large size of the head, and the greater 88 RESEARCHES B, extent of the nasal projections. It attains the leng-tli of" two feet, weig'liing- then three and a half pounds, and is supposed to have gained the name of Piper from the sound which escapes from it when taken in hand from the sea. All the species, however, emit a gTunting' noise at intervals for a considerable time ; which may probably have given origin to the name that distinguishes them, by some corruption from the Latin grunnio, or the French grondcr. Perhaps a little assisted by its rarity, its flesh has been considered superior to that of the other Gurnards. Even Quain has borne tes- timon^r to the merits of a West-country Piper. Average length, about twenty inches. Yarrell. The Family with Hard Cheeks. Pogge of Dale, Doxovan, Fleming, and of Jenyns : Armed Bullhead of Pennant : the Armed Bull-head, Pogge, of Yakrell. This very marked species was first described by Schonevelde, (or Schonfeld,) a physician of Hamburg, who published, in 1624, a catalog-ue of the aquatic animals of Silesia and Holstein. The Pogge is very plentiful on this coast. It seldom exceeds six inches in length ; its food is aquatic insects and small Crustacea. It spawns in May, depositing the ova amongst stones. Its flesh is said to be firm and good. Yarrell. The Family with Hard Cheeks. Father-lasher of Dale: Father-Lasher of Pennant, Donovan, and of Fleming: Four-spined Father- Lasher oi Jenyns : Father-lasher, Long- spined Cotttis, of Yarrell. The Father-Lasher, or Long-spined Cottus, or Lucky Proacli, is immediately recognised by its well-armed head and long spines, but seldom measures more than from six to ten inches in length on our shores. The general appearance of this fish is forbidding. When touched, it distends its gill-covers, and sets out its numerous spines, assuming a most threatening appearance. This species spawns in January, and the ova at that time are very large, and of a fine orange-yellow colour. These are deposited near the sea-shore, fre- quently in the estuaries, and sometimes even in rivers j the fish having prepared itself for this chang-e by its previous residence in RESEARCHES B. 89 the brackish water, after which it appears to be able to bear either extreme. Its food is small Crustacea, and it is said to be particularly- partial to feeding- on the fry of the Blennies. Yarrel/. Yelloiv Gurnard of Philosophical Transactions and of Dale : Gemmeous Dragonet of Pennant. Generic Characters. — The body of this fish is slender, round, and smooth; the head is large, and fiat at the top ; in the hind part are two orifices, through which it breathes, and also forces out the water it takes in at the mouth, in the same manner as cetaceous fishes. The apertures to the gills are closed ; on the end of the bones that cover them is a very singular three-forked spine. The eyes are large, and placed very near each other, on the upper part of the head, so that they look upwards. — Pennant. The Eng-lish writers have called this fish the Yellow Gurnard, but having- no one character of the Gurnard genus, we think our- selves obliged to drop that name. It is, in some places, taken by the hook in thirty or forty fathoms water. It is often found in the stomach of the Cod-fish. This species g-rows to the length often or twelve inches. Yarrell. STURIONIDiE : — the family of the Sturgeons. Sturgeon of Willughby, Silas Taylor, Dale, and of Fleming : Common Sturgeon of Lixn.'eus, Pennant, Donovan, Jenyns, and of Yarrell. Generic Characters. — Body elongated and angular, defended by indm-ated plates and spines, arranged in longitudinal rows ; snout pointed, conical ; mouth placed on the under siu-face of the head, tubulai-, and without teeth. — Yarrell. The Sturgeon is caug-ht occasionally on our coast, but most fre- quently in the estuaries, or a short distance up rivers ; very seldom taken in the open sea, where it is beheved to inhabit deep water, beyond the reach of nets, and has, perhaps, never been caught upon the fishermen's lines. Dr. Neill says, that they get entangled in tlie Salmon nets, and when of large size, frequently do the fishermen considerable damage by tearing* their nets. They are otherwise harmless. One cauglit in a stake-net near Findhorn, in Scotland, in July, 1833, measured eight feet six inches in length, and weighed two hundred and three pounds. M M 90 RESEARCHES B. The larg-est specimen taken in this country is probably the fish recorded by Pennant, which was caug-ht in the Esk, and weighed four hundred and sixty pounds. In the northern parts of Europe, caviare is made of the roe of the female, and ising-lass is obtained fi'om the dense membrane forming- the air-bladder. The flesh, like that of most of the cartilaginous fishes, is more firm and compact than is usual amongst those of the osseous families. Yarrell. SYNGNATHID^ : — the family of the Pipe-fishes. The lesser Tobacco-pipe Fish of Dale : Shorter Pipe-fish of Donovan and of Fleming : Lesser Pipe-fish of Jenyns : the Deep-nosed Pipe-fish of Yarrell. Generic Characters. — Body elongated, slender, covered with, a series of indurated plates an-anged in parallel lines ; head long ; both jaws produced, united, tutular ; no ventral fins. In the species of the fii'st division, an elon- gated pouch under the tail in the males only, closed by two folding mem- branes. From the gTeat similarity in the form and size of the mouth in all the species, it is probable that their food is also similar. Worms, small mollusca, young and minute thin-skinned Crustacea, and the ova of other fishes are amongst the substances taken; and the members of this species are supposed to be able, by dilating their throat at pleasure, to draw their food up their cylindrical beak-like mouth as water is drawn up the pipe of a syringe. Average length, about thirteen inches. Yarrell. GOBIADvE : — the family of the Gobies Sea- Gudgeon, or Bock-Fish of Dale : Black Goby of Pennant and of Jenyns : the Black Goby, Rock Goby, of Yarrell. Generic Characters.— 'H.ead depressed, ■^^'ith pores between the eyes ; dorsal fins two, distinct, rays of both flexible ; ventral fins united at the edges, formmg a circle ; anal aperture with a tubercle ; body covered with scales, the free edges ciliated ; teeth small, numerous ; branchiostegous rays, five. — Yarrell. The species of this genus are easily recognised by the peculiar form of the ventral fins; the short anterior rays, and the long RESEARCHES B. 91 posterior ones, on each side, being- united together, making a circle, with which they have been supposed to possess the power of attach- ing- themselves to rocks, by forming- a vacuum. The Gobies are of httle value, except as supplying food to other fishes. Of this genus, the Black Goby is one of the most rare on our shores. Mr. Couch has observed a peculiarity in the habits of the Black Goby, in which it resembles the Shanny — that of carrying off its prey in its mouth to a resting place, and then struggling with it. Length of the largest amongst several specimens, about five inches. Yaj'rell. MUIlYENIDyE :— Eel-shaped Fishes. Conger, or Conger- Eel, of Dale : Conger of Yarrell. Generic Characters, — The dorsal fin commences much nearer the head than in the fresh- water Eels ; the upper jaw the longest ; in other respects resembling the genus ^nguilla. The Conger Eel is a species well known on our coast. Mr. Low- says — " It is found ver}^ frequently round the Orkney Islands : some are caught at the fishermen's lines -, but the Otter is by far the most successful in killino- Cons-ers. He bring-s ashore and eats but a very small part, leaving the rest for the next comer ; and where his haunts are known, the country people are very careful every morning to search for the remains of the night, and are seldom disappointed, but find Cod, Ling sometimes, but especially Congers, which are oftener seen amongst the hollows of the rocks than farther to sea." Congers are caught by bulters, or long-lines, and the most esteemed bait is the Sand-launce. Three men with a boat have taken from five hundred weight to two tons in a night's fishing. The Conger will not readily take a bait by day, and even on moonlight nights it is more shy than when in the dark, except in deep water. The Congers that keep amongst rocks hide themselves in crevices, where they are not unfrequently left by the retiring tide ; but in situations free from rocks, Congers hide themselves by burrowing in the ground. The flesh is not in much estimation, but meets a ready sale at a low price amongst the lower classes. Formerly a very considerable 92 RESEARCHES B. quantity was prepared, by drying in a particular manner, and ex- ported to Spain and other parts. When thus dried, the flesh was ground or g'rated to powder, and in this state was used to thicken soup. Congers spawn in December or January. The adult fish is most voracious, not even sparing those of its own species. From the stomach of a specimen, weighing twenty-five pounds, Mr. Yarrell took three common Dabs, and a young Conger of three feet in length. The power of the jaws in this fish is very great. Congers are often tempted by the Crustacea entrapped in the lobster-pots to enter those decoys in order to feed on them, and are thus frequently captured. These fish acquire a very large size : specimens weighing eighty-six pounds, a hundred and four pounds, and even a hundred and thirty pounds, have been recorded ; some of them measuring more than ten feet long, and eighteen inches in circumference. They possess great strength, and often prove very formidable antagonists if assailed amongst rocks, or when drawn into a boat on a line. Yarrell. Lamprey, or Lamprsi/ Eel, of Dale : La7)iprcy of Yariieli.. The Lampreys have no swimming-bladder; and being also without pectoral fins, are usually seen near the bottom. To save themselves from the constant exertion which would be necessary to prevent them being carried along by the current of the water, they attach tliemselves by the mouth to stones or rocks, and were in consequence called Stone-suckers ; whilst the circular form of the mouth induced the name of Round-mouthed Fishes. In the months of April and May, it is considered to be in perfec- tion as food, and considerable quantities are prepared in various ways for the table. The potted Lamprey and Lamperns of Worces- ter are in high estimation. Pennant states that it has been an old custom for the city of Gloucester annually to present the Sovereign of the realm with a Lamprey pie, covered with a large raised crust. After the spawning season is over, the flesh of the Lamprey, like that of other fish, loses for a time its firmness and other good qualities, and the weakened fish makes its way back to the sea, to RESEARCHES B. 93 recruit its wasted condition. Tlie food of" tlie Lamprey consists g'enerallj of any soft animal matter ; and in the sea it is known to attack other fishes even of larg-e size, by fastening- upon them, and with its numerous small rasp-like teeth eating- away the soft parts down to the bone. It is not very often caug-ht whilst it remains at sea. The Lamprej^s are oviparous, spawning- late in the spring-. This species usually measures fi'om twenty to twenty-eig-ht inches in leng'th. Yarrell. MUR^NID.E. Sand- Eels, or Launces, of Dale : Sand- Eel of Yarrell. The Sand-Eel, or Hornel, is immediately to be disting-uished from the Sand-Launce by its g-reater size, specimens have been seen measuring- twelve inches in lengih ; it is further disting-uished by the greater length of the head, and particularly of the lower jaw. The Sand-Eel is browner in colour, and less transparent in appear- ance, when in hand, than the Sand-Launce. Dr. Neill sa3's, the Edinburgh fishermen call the larger ones Hornels — probably an abbreviation of Horneels — in reference to the greater length of body and the horn-like elongation of the lower jaw, by means of which they are enabled to bury themselves in the wet sands of the sea-shore, from which they are scratched out with iron hooks for bait or sale. A sort of rake, on some parts of the coast, is used to obtain Sand- Eels and Sand-Launces. A piece of strong- iron wire, bent into the form of a sickle, is, however, the more common instmment used. Yarrell. Genus— CETACEA. Pyke-headed W/tale of Dale : Pike-headed Whale of Penxaxt. " The length of that taken on the coast of Scotland," as remarked by Sir Robert Sibbald, " was forty-six feet, and its greatest ch'cum- ference twent}'. The head was of an oblong- form, sloping down and gTowing narrower to the nose, six feet eight inches from the end of which were two spout-holes, separated by a thin division ; the eyes small. The pectoral fins five feet long-, and one and a half broad ; on the back, about eight feet and a half from the tail, in lieu of a back fin, was a hard horny protuberance ; the tail was nine feet and a half broad; the belly was uneven, and formed into folds 94: RESEARCHES B. running' lengthways ; the skin extremely smooth and bright ; that on the back black j that on the belly white." This species takes its name from the shape of its nose, which Dale observes is like that of the Pike fish. Pennant and Dale. HYPEROODON. Porpus of Dale : or Bottle-head, or Flounder's Head, or Bottle-headed Porpoise, or Beaked Whale. These fish sometimes grow to the length of twenty feet ; they make but little noise in blowing, are very tame, come very near the ships, and will accompany them for a great way. Pennant. CETACEA. Grampus, or North-caper, or Bottle-nose, of Dale. The Grampus, or Grampus Dolphin, is found from the length of fifteen feet to that of twenty-five. It is remarkably tliick in pro- portion to its length, one of eighteen feet being in the thickest place ten feet in diameter. With reason, then, did Pliny call this an im- mense heap of flesh, armed with dreadful teeth. It is extremely voracious, and Avill not even spare the Porpesse, (or Porpoise,) a congenerous fish. It is said to be a great enemy to the Whale, and to fasten on it like a dog on a bull. These sometimes appear on our coasts ; but are found in greater numbers off the North Cape in Norway, whence they are called the " North-Capers." These, and all other Whales, are observed to swim against the wind, and to be much distui'bed, and to tumble about with unusual violence, at the approach of a storm. Pennant. SQUALID^ : — the family of the Sharks. Picked-Dog, or Hound-Fish, or Nurse, of Dale : Picked Shark of Pex- NAXT and of Doxotax : Common Dog-fish of Flemixg : Picked Dog-fish of Jextxs and of Yarhell. Generic Characters. — Two dorsal fins, witli a spine before each ; first dor- sal behind the Ime of the pectorals ; the second dorsal over the space between the Tentral and caudel fins ; no anal fin. Skin rough in one direction ; the scales heart-shaped, with a central spine directed backwards. Temporal spiracles large. Several rows of teeth in both jaws, cutting and sharp, the points directed outwards and backwards. — Yarrell. RESEARCHES B. 95 The Picked Dog'-fish is a very common species, at once dis- ting'uished fi-om the other British Sharks by the sing-le spine placed in advance of each of its two dorsal rins — a weapon from which it derives its specific appellation, ^^/c/e being- synonymous v/itYipihe or spike. Being' g-reg'arions, they frecpiently make their appearance in such shoals that the fishermen load then' boats to the water's edg-e with them, and they prove a valuable capture. The flesh is dried and eaten : the hvers yield a large quantity of oil, whilst their in- testines and other refuse parts are strewed over the land as manure. Mr. Couch says — " It is the most abundant of the Sharks, and is sometimes found in incalculable numbers, to the no small annoyance of the fishermen, whose hooks they cut from the Hues in rapid suc- cession. I have heard of 20,000 taken in a sean at one time ; and such is the strength of instinct, that little creatures not exceeding six inches in length may be found, in company with the larger and stronger, following shoals of fish, on which at that time it is impos- sible they should be able to prey. The Picked Dog bends itself into the form of a bow for the purpose of using its spines, and by a sud- den motion causes them to spring asunder in opposite directions ; and so accurately is tlais intention effected, that if a finger be placed on its head, it will strike it without piercing its own skin." The whole length of a specimen was eighteen inches. SQUALID^. Monk, or Angcl-fish, of Dale : Monk of Willughbt : Angel-fish of "NVil- lUGHBY and of Jenyns : Angel-Fish of Y.vrrell : Angel Shark of Pexxant and of Donovan : Monk-fish of Fleming. The Monk-fish, or Shark-Ray, or Kingston, certainly more re- markable for the singularity of its form than for its beauty, is called Angel-Fish in England, France, and Italy, and is said to have acquired that name from the extended pectoral fins having the appearance of its wings : it is also called Monk-fish, because its rounded head looks as if enveloped in a monk's hood. Mr. Donovan says, the form of its body has obtained for it, in some places, the name of Fiddle-fish ; and it is also called Shark-Ray, from its par- taking of the characters of both Shark and Ray, though in some respects distinct from either. This fish is very voracious, and feeds 96 nESEARCHES B. on the smaller Flat-fishes which, like itself, swim close to the bot- tom ; occasionalh', like them also, hiding* itself in the loose soft soil that floats over it. The Anu,-el-fish sometimes attains a larg-e size. Cuvier, Pennant, and others, mention having- seen specimens that would have weighed a hundred pounds. The flesh is now considered indifferent and seldom eaten, but is said to have been formerly held in hig-h estimation. The slcin is rather roug'h, and is used for pohshing", and other works in the arts : Mr. Donovan also says that the Turks make shag'reen of it. The females produce their young' alive in June. The mouth is very wide ; teeth long and pointed. This species is said to attain the length of seven or eig'ht feet. Yarrell. E,AIID^