m 3 1210 01970 4517 MONCKTOH : ION:ES THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA RIVERSIDE Ex Libris I ; C. K. OGDEN j Life in Old Cambridge LIFE IN ^ — OLD CAMBRIDGE Illustrations of English History M. E. MONCKTON JONES With Preface by G. K. CHESTERTON MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS CAMBRIDGE W. HEFFER 6? SONS LTD. 1920 -DA 63 C2SJ45 Contents CHAP. PAGB Illustrations - - - vii Author's Preface - ix Introduction - xiii I. The Grassland Strip - - 1 II. The Romans - - - - 15 III. The Province - - - - 21 IV. Saxon Times - - - - 31 V. The Danes - - - - 55 VI. The Norman Years - - 74 VII. Medieval Cambridge - - 86 VIII. Monks and Friars - - - 100 Illustrations PAGE Map of Fen and Forest ... Frontispiece Compiled by L. Grimes in the style of the 17th Century explorers) Late Celtic Vessel and Kimmeridge Shale Urn - 7 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Gold Armilla and Process of Making it - 8 (From photo in Camb. Arch. Museum) Torque, Spearhead, Celt and Celt Moulds 9 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Fleam Dyke 12 (From a photograph) British Shield 15 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Bronze of a Roman Soldier - - - 18 (From Babington's Ancient Cambridgeshire, p. 77) Roman Pottery 24 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Roman Fibula and Knife 25 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Anglo-Saxon Seaxe, and Bill 34 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Anglo-Saxon Fibula and Clasps 35 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Old Cottages now standing at Cherryhinton 36 (From sketch by P. Johnstone) Viii ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE North Doorway of Our Lady's Chapel, Stourbridge ------ 40 Saxon Vessel. Roman Vessels 46 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Saxon Brooch ------ 51 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Saxon Spindle -Whorls and Cloth - - 52 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Saxon Disc Ornament ----- 63 (Camb. Arch. Museum) Tower of St. Benet's ----- 67 (From a sketch by P. Johnstone) Castle Hill ------- 87 (From old illustrations of Cambridge and Bramber) Thatched Church ------ 90 (From a sketch by P. Johnstone) Map of Cambridge in 1300 - - - 101 (From J. W. Clark, Ecclesia de Barnwell, facing p. 336) Plan of Cambridge Castle - - - - 114 (From print made for S. Hooper, 1776) View of Cambridge Castle - - - - 117 (From print made for S. Hooper, 1776) Plan of Stourbridge Fair ... - 128 (From History and Antiquities of Barnwell, Cam- bridge Free Library) Author's Preface This sketch of early life in Cambridge has been compiled in reply to a want expressed in the elementary schools of the town. The many admirable volumes existing on Cam- bridge have been written by scholars for adult and educated readers. They are un- happily for the most part inaccessible and unintelligible to the children. Yet a know- ledge of the factors and the actors which have made up the life of the past is the best means of arousing that community sentiment on which can be based the co-operation of good citizens in the future. East Anglia plays, perhaps, the next greatest part to London in the Middle Ages especially in trade and political intercourse with Flanders and the Empire, and all this is reflected in the life of the town, under Saxons, Danes, Normans and Angevins. To give the actual writs and regulations of those rulers to a boy, who hardly understands their wording is more worth doing than it seems, for it is often to awaken in him for the first time a sense that History describes the lives of real people whose influence may still affect his life to-day. For Local History consists of X AUTHOR S PREFACE detail, and it is detail, not generalities, which a child can grasp, and about which his keen imagination loves to play. The legends of Cnut, of Britnoth, of Hereward ; the doings of Friar or Canon, of Sheriff Picot or King John give them actual dramatis persona? for the stage of their constant mental plays, but these characters cannot be given without some ordered background. To sketch such a background without offending against the dim truths of Archaeology or contracting the due sequence of time ; to write it in language which will not flow un- heeded over the child's head, involves diffi- culties which those will understand who have attempted it, and which constantly lay the writer open to charges of inaccuracy, the more just in this case since she is qualified neither by long residence nor special study of Cam- bridge, but has had to build on the work of others. In stay of scholars' judgment, she would urge that they should speedily meet the need with more authority and simplicity. Most valuable help has been drawn from Cooper's " Annals of Cambridge," Stubb's " Cambridge," Conybeare's " Cambridge- shire," and Mr. A. Gray's " Cambridge," and his pamphlets in the Cambridge Antiquarian Society's publications. To Mr. Gray I am more especially grateful for his great kindness in reading the manuscript and putting me right on important points. I rejoice to have AUTHOR S PREFACE xi this opportunity of thanking Mr. Harold Peake for similar help in Chapter I. ; the Cambridge Antiquarian Society and Baron von Hugel for their kindness in permitting me to use illustrations from their library and copies of objects in the Archaeological Museum, the Committee of the Free Library for the plan of Barnwell Fair ; Father Cuthbert for the use of an extract from his work on " The coming of the Friars Minor," and Messrs. Bowes and Bowes for the arrangement by which it has been possible to include passages from J. W. Clark's " Augustinian Canons of Barnwell." To Miss P. Johnstone my thanks are given for the illustrations, which should, it is hoped, provide children with suggestions for handwork. Finally, with Colet's words, I would dedi- cate my ill-finished task to the children: " In which little work if any new things be of me, it is alonely that I have put these parts in a more clear order, and have made them a little more easy to young wits than, me thinketh, they were before. . . . Wherefore all little babes, all little children learn gladly . . . and lift up your little white hands for me." M. E. Monckton Jones. Barton, Cambs. December 9, 1919. Introduction I know not by what right I block up the Roman road of this valuable history of Cam- bridge, unless it be because I have followed it myself with great pleasure, by private favour of the author, or perhaps because my surname happens to be that of a village in the neighbourhood. I have never been to Cambridge except as an admiring visitor ; I have never been to Chesterton at all ; either from a sense of unworthiness, or from a faint superstitious feeling that I might be fulfilling a prophecy in the country-side. Anyone with a sense of the savour of the old English country rhymes and tales will share my vague alarm that the steeple might crack or the market cross fall down, for a smaller thing than the coincidence of a man named Chesterton going to Chesterton. I have never really studied history at Cambridge, or any- where else. And if I have heartily enjoyed this modern history of Cambridge, I fear it is not because it bears a resemblance to the XIV INTRODUCTION Cambridge Modern History. In short, while my qualifications for pronouncing on the point at all are highly dubious, the strong sympathy I do feel for the work is mostly due to its marked difference from most academic digests. What is the matter with those academic attempts at universal history is that they are generally so very much the reverse of universal. They assemble the specialists, so as to cover all subjects except the real subject. The result is that we only succeed in having all things studied in a narrow spirit, instead of one thing studied in a universal spirit. That is one reason for liking a thing like a local history ; that it is a large story about a little thing. I prefer the philosophical results of a man examining a mole-hill, rather than those of a million moles exploring a mountain. It is to be hoped that the example be followed, touching many other English dis- tricts ; nor is there any particular reason why it should not be followed touching all of them. It is true that the author of this book happens to have to deal with one of the towns universally recognised as historic and INTRODUCTION XV picturesque, containing some of the chief monuments of medieval art, as well as some of the chief chairs of modern education. But this particular interest of the pageant of successive periods really belongs less to Cam- bridge as Cambridge than to Cambridge as a country town. Even the most urban towns are mostly made up of country towns ; that is they have grown by absorbing the surround- ing towns and villages. We are tempted in a fanciful fashion to forget that sites at least stand for ever, and cannot be created or destroyed. It is as if we imagined that Brixton had appeared recently as a radiant object in the sky, like the New Jerusalem ; or that the very earth on which Manchester stands had been manufactured in the Man- chester factories. But, indeed, Manchester itself is the clearest of all cases to the contrary. The Manchester School was credited with being unhistorical, or even anti-historical ; but the very name of Manchester is a piece of history, and even of ancient and classical history. There are no new places in Eng- land ; for there is no such thing as a new place in nature, or even in abstract logic. Therefore XVI INTRODUCTION there is no reason why we should not have an epic and almost prehistoric history of West Kensington, or the truth about the romantic story of Clapham. It would be the same great story of Rome, of the Church, of the Crusades, of the great guilds like those that made the cathedrals, if anyone had the moral courage to do for Clapham what the lady who wrote this book has done for Cam- bridge. If I might give one example from this book, out of many, of the sort of thing that is so seriously wanted in a popular history, and is so seldom present in one, I would adduce the wisdom of giving in their regular order the actual terms of the charter which King John gave to the burghers. I do not exag- gerate when I say I think them far more important than the charter which King John gave to the barons. The latter is always called the great charter, largely because it was chiefly concerned with great lords ; but this is concerned with smaller men, and therefore with larger matters. It consists of fourteen clauses ; and as we read it we feel passing before us and around us all the living INTRODUCTION. xvti movement of the Middle Ages. Besides the essential things, the general presence of a sort of ideal trading, analogous to the theory of a just price, we have a hundred little things of singular historic interest, especially when they have since grown into larger things. We have, for instance, reference to certain privileges only belonging " to the king's moneyers and servants " ; the latter being the position of the Jews, and probably in- volving many privileges for the Jews. We have the curious feature of continual reference to something rather unique and characteristic of our own history ; the exceptional role and position of the City of London. There is an inevitable reference to ale, which flows as in rivers through all such records ; and especially of an occasion when the burghers were sternly confined to drinking only one kind of ale, instead of absorbing all possible kinds of ale in their due succession. Men are often confined to a sort of " scot-ale " in the tied houses of our own time ; but to-day the celebration lasts all the year round. In short, the mere citation of this medieval document in detail gives the amateur reader XV111 INTRODUCTION like myself a real glimpse of the medieval democracy. From the stock histories of his youth he would have learned little or nothing about that particular date, except the extra- ordinary wickedness of King John and the extraordinary goodness of the British Consti- tution. But to those old Cambridge men King John was only the name of the King who happened to give them the glorious rights of guildsmen. And I very much fear that, to them, the modern thing called the British Constitution would only be the thing under which the rights and the guilds were alike gone. G. K. Chesterton. Life in Old Cambridge. Chapter I. The Grassland Strip What was there 2,000 years ago where Cam- bridge now stands ? A bird taking flight from Castle Hill would have had below him a shining streak of waters, such as you see when the floods are out on the commons. In places it would be half-a-mile or so across, but if he flew north, Ely way, the lake would run into another and another, each wider than the last, so that by Waterbeach there would be a bay with waves chasing each other before the wind. Right away to the Wash and the sea were marshes, and a log or raft, put into the water at Castle Hill, could drift on mile after mile till it came out on to tossing seas. 1 Cam and Ouse and their streamlets ran together into a waste of waters which cut 1 See W. Stubbs, Cambridge, p. 9. 1 2 LIFE IN OLD CAMBRIDGE off Norfolk and Suffolk from the rest of England, making them almost an island. Out of the shallow water of the marsh, reeds and grasses grew thick and tall and made green banks on either side of the river. These banks sloped gently upwards and spread out into wide hillsides, on which might grow gorse and sloe and a few may-trees. Then among the may-trees might come a few birches, white- stemmed and dainty, swinging in the breeze, and here and there a feathery ash-tree or a thickset oak. Closer and closer grow the trees, big beeches and great dark oaks as the hills rise, till presently all light is shut out and you can only see a yard or two either way. For many miles the woods go on, covering the hillsides with a dense coat of timber for many days' journey till they feel the bleak east wind and the salty air of the North Sea. Now between the forest and the water there lies only one long narrow strip of open grassland, a sunny upland by which men could travel in the daylight, leaving the dark, tangled forest to left and the shining water to right as they ran southwards from the bracken lands of Norfolk towards the warmer uplands THE GRASSLAND STRIP 3 that fence the Thames valley from the North winds. Look at it well, that corridor of grassy- slopes. Some forty miles it runs, flanked by Forest on the one side, Fenland on the other. It holds the secret of the life of Cambridge. Whoever comes sailing over the chill North Sea, land where he will along the coast be- tween Thames and Ouse mouths, he must come inland by that grassy slope. If he leave ship at Lynn he cannot cross the marshes but must w r ork along their edges to Brandon before he can turn west and south. If he land at Harwich the Forest faces him, dark, tangled, full of beasts, and he must work northward to turn its outposts till he comes to the open passage at Brandon. And so too if a troop would find its way to the sea from Bedford or north from London, the Forest blocks the Way eastwards, the Marshes bar it on the north, only by Royston slopes to Brandon can it pass to the east and the sea. That was the Open Road, " over the hills and far away " ; everyone out of East Ahglia seeking his fortune in the world must tread the springy turf of the Brandon and Royston uplands. 4 LIFE IN OLD CAMBRIDGE On the sunny south-looking slopes of the chalk hills lay the pit-dwellings of the first men. To try to live lower down in the valleys was dangerous, for often the water would rise and soak the soil, and any huts or camps they had made would be washed away. It was a pity, for the grass down there was longer and richer than on the hillsides ; in the lakes too and rivers were man}?- fish and wild duck to be caught by those who knew how, and so after a time men did try to live down there in spite of the danger. Leading down to the river was a strip of gravel, and here and there it spread out into a patch of drier ground, a little hillock standing perhaps a few feet higher than the grass elsewhere ; there they would dig out a flat floor for a hut, throwing the earth up in a little round wall into which they thrust strong branches to meet overhead as a roof. The spaces between them they blocked with more earth mixed with reeds or grass, and thatched the top with reeds. When it rained for days together the mud walls began to melt ; then the marsh water too was swollen and rose. They were so often washed away that at last they found a way to protect their THE GRASSLAND STRIP 5 huts. All round the dry patch or hillock, on which their huts were crowded together, the men would dig a ditch deep enough to carry off flood water, and with the soil that they dug out they threw up a great bank. Such a place, perhaps, was once the spot we now call Cambridge ; flat as it looks it must have stood above the surrounding marsh when first men built their huts there. Beside the group of huts ran the Cam, a long, winding chain of lakes and bogs, and beyond it the sun would set behind a big hillside. If you could get across the water and scramble up the hill you would find the land still rising slowly as you went west away. Where the river ran round the foot of the hill it was easy to cross, for the bottom was gravel. A ridge of gravel began there and passed by the huts and back all the way to the grassland slopes of the Gogs. From the Wash southwards this was the first place where you could cross the marshes. There between the river and the grasslands the first dwellers in our district, little wiry men whose ancestors had come from warm lands in the south of Europe made their home, 6 LIFE IN OLD CAMBRIDGE many thousand years ago. They were very short, with long, egg-shaped heads, fine black hair and beard and sharp features. From the hill their keen sight might often pick out a troop of men and cattle, moving along the grassway on the slopes of the Gogs, seeking new pasture or going to chaffer for flints at the Royston pit, or northwards to Grimes Graves at Brandon. Such a troop running lightly afoot soon beat out a track over the hillsides, winding here to avoid a rough growth of thorn-scrub and oak-tree, mounting higher there to escape from the muddy margin of a marsh or stream- let, and marked along its course by mounds raised to cover the bones of mighty chiefs or to guide strange wayfarers. Such was the country round Cambridge in the New Stone Age and Bronze Age. To the north-east were the Brakelands (Norfolk and Suffolk), open common and heath. There the early men clustered around the flinty gravel pit or chalk quarry, fed their reindeer and the little, long-horned oxen on the grasses and mosses, and traded in cattle, hides, pottery and basket-work. To chaffer 8 LIFE IN OLD CAMBRIDGE with them came other groups of the same people from the southern valleys. These had travelled along the upland Ridgeways from Chiltern and the Berkshire Downs, and even distant Stonehenge or Avebury, bringing beads of the beautiful Irish gold or lumps of tin and perhaps lead from Cornwall and the West. These old grass ways of the stone users can still be traced and in Berks and Wilts they still sweep on for mile after mile over the wide downs paved with soft springy green turf and thyme. Ftocoes of ToaWpa 0* <5cL /.urruodfyuo.Caivb -ABromt CtttTC)ould.opw)iU)d. cloSld; tout)d aCt)iu> £trKt,Catt)bTicUjc,i9C$. clean shining Irish gold, led other races, the taller round-headed men of Central Europe 10 LIFE IN OLD CAMBRIDGE to come over the sea. These men learnt to use weapons of bronze, and gradually spread over the grasslands of the east and midlands and far north-eastern Scotland. 1 A few of them seem to have reached our district, for in Barnwell was found one of the pottery vases called Beakers which they made, and a few of their bronze celts or axes, but we don't know whether they settled here. They were half-a-foot taller than the first men, and had beetling eyebrows and big cheekbones. The Iron Age They were followed by wave upon wave of races from Europe, these new-comers too drawn probably by the wish to trade. Of middle height and beardless, with round bullet-heads, they seem to have been more ready to fight than the rest, or perhaps they had more cause, as each fresh group filled up the open grass lands and had to live nearer the river or to clear away some of the forest. By this time men had found out how to work iron ore into tools and weapons, and had to 1 See Crawford. Geographical Journal (Aug. and Sept., 1912). THE GRASSLAND STRIP 11 build strongholds to keep their families and cattle safe. Tribe after tribe pressed into Britain between 1200 B.C. and the time when Christ was born. One of them was called Britons, and though it was only a small group it gave its name to the land. Coming from over the Channel they settled in the south and east, a strong tribe named the Iceni taking the land between the Wash and the sea. Safe against attack on either side, they found their only danger in the open way across the grass by which for centuries folk had come north from the Downs and Thames to trade and settle. So they planted a settlement at our fords of the river and along the gravel ridge to south of it, higher up, too, where Grant- chester now is they passed the narrower streams. But others could do so, and perhaps wrest the rich grass and riverside lands from them. How should they secure it against all comers from the south ? On the chalk hill tops where little wood could grow except the beeches they built big camps, digging out the soil for 12 or 15 feet, and throwing it up into a great encircling mound on which they could plant a strong fence of timber. This would 12 LIFE IN OLD CAMBRIDGE do well to hold the hill, but enemies could still pass along the open way below to the rich lands of Norfolk and Suffolk. They must bar the open Ridgeway. So they made Dykes of earth such as fenced their camp-villages, iS&Lif \>M^M ^fe^feM^S ^SSBpr •h=m y\)iT\zamT)yhe>, Oarpbridggshtce . but longer and mightier. Like the men of China or Babylon they would build a great earth-wall to shut the open entrance to the land of their tribe. From in under the eastern forest of oaks and beeches on the hills it should run out into the open where wind and sun played hide and seek with the cloud- shadows all along its sides. There the grass THE GRASSLAND STRIP 13 grew short and sweet and the Dyke ran on and on down the slopes to where the water of the Fens made marching impossible. Right on down into the water they built it so that there was no room to pass between the dyke and the marsh at one end of the dyke and the forest thickets at the other, and a few Britons on the dyke could challenge all comers from the south. Two such great Banks and ditches run close to Cambridge, the Fleam Dyke from Balsham to Fen Ditton still lies like a great grass swathe across the way to Newmarket and Brandon. Not one or two only were the Dykes, but four. North of it lies " the Devil's Dyke," and to the south two more. An invader trying to come in along the Way would first have had to force the passage of the Brand Ditch, running from the bogs between Melbourne and Fowl- mere to Heydon on the hills above the Thames, then the Brent Ditch near Abing- ton (then that of the so-called Worsted Street), 1 then Fleam Dyke, and at last the mighty Devil's Dyke, a massive pile 30 feet high from the bottom of the Ditch to the top x Probably not a dyke; the old name ia Wolf Street Way. 14 LIFE IN OLD CAMBRIDGE of the mound and reaching unbroken for 10 long miles, from Reach on the water to the forest Wood Ditton. 1 1 See Conybeare's Cambridgeshire, p. 14. Chapter II. The Romans In the Iceni's time the great Roman Empire, under those Caesars who commanded that " all the world should be taxed," had spread northward and westward from Rome 1. "Frept cf ShUld. a. Riveras, fct^jutiN b»